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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/35434-0.txt b/35434-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e5ef69d --- /dev/null +++ b/35434-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,8201 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Above the Snow Line by Clinton Thomas Dent + + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no +restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under +the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or +online at http://www.gutenberg.org/license + + + +Title: Above the Snow Line + +Author: Clinton Thomas Dent + +Release Date: March 1, 2011 [Ebook #35434] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF‐8 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ABOVE THE SNOW LINE*** + + + + + + ABOVE THE SNOW LINE + + LONDON: PRINTED BY + SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE + AND PARLIAMENT STREET + + [Illustration: THE BIETSCHHORN. FROM THE PETERSGRAT] + + + + + + ABOVE THE SNOW LINE + + MOUNTAINEERING SKETCHES + BETWEEN 1870 AND 1880 + + BY + CLINTON DENT + VICE-PRESIDENT OF THE ALPINE CLUB + + + “_Celui qui n’a jamais ses heures_ + _de folie est moins sage qu’il ne le_ + _pense_”—LA BRUYÈRE + + + +WITH TWO ENGRAVINGS BY EDWARD WHYMPER AND +AN ILLUSTRATION BY PERCY MACQUOID + + +LONDON +LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO. +1885 + +_All rights reserved_ + + + + + + THESE SKETCHES OF MOUNTAINEERING + I DEDICATE TO + T. I. D. + IN THE HOPE THAT A BOOK WITHOUT A HEROINE + MAY, AT LEAST, ACQUIRE SOME FEMININE INTEREST + + + + + + PREFACE + + +Some of the following sketches do not now appear for the first time; but +such as have been before published in other form have been entirely +re-written, and, in great measure, recast. + + + +To the writer the work has afforded an occasional distraction from more +serious professional work, and he cannot wish better than that it should +serve the same purpose to the reader. + +CORTINA DI AMPEZZO: +_September 1884_. + + + + + + CONTENTS + + +CHAPTER I. +AN EXPEDITION IN THE OLDEN STYLE + PAGE +Buried records—_Litera scripta manet_—The survival of the unfit—A 1 +literary octopus—Sybaritic mountaineering—On mountain +“form”—Lessons to be learned in the Alps—The growth and spread of +the climbing craze—Variations of the art—A tropical day in the +valley—A deserted hostelry—The hotel staff appears in several +characters—Ascent of the Balfrinhorn—Our baggage train and +transport department—A well-ventilated shelter—On sleeping out: +its advantages on the present occasion—The Mischabelhörner family +group—A plea for Saas and the Fée plateau—We attack the +Südlenzspitz—The art of detecting hidden crevasses—Plans for the +future—Sentiment on a summit—The feast is spread—The +Alphubeljoch—We meet our warmest welcome at an inn +CHAPTER II. +THE ROTHHORN (MOMING) FROM ZERMATT +The Alpine dramatis personæ—Mountaineering fact and romance—The 31 +thirst for novelty and its symptoms—The first ascent of the +Moming—Preliminaries are observed—Rock _v._ snow mountains—The +amateur and the guide on rocks and on snow—The programme is made +out—Franz Andermatten—Falling stones in the gully—We smooth away +the difficulties—The psychological effects of reaching mountain +summits—A rock bombardment and a narrow escape—The youthful +tourist and his baggage—Hotel trials—We are interviewed—The +gushers +CHAPTER III. +EARLY ATTEMPTS ON THE AIGUILLE DU DRU +The Alps and the early mountaineers—The last peaks to 56 +surrender—The Aiguille du Dru—Messrs. Kennedy and Pendlebury’s +attempt on the peak—One-day expeditions in the Alps and thoughts +on huts and sleeping out—The Chamouni guide system—A word on +guides, past and present—The somnolent landlord and his +peculiarities—Some of the party see a chamois—Doubts as to the +peak and the way—The duplicity of the Aiguille deceives +us—Telescopic observations—An ill-arranged glacier—Franz and his +mighty axe—A start on the rocks in the wrong direction—Progress +reported—An adjournment—The rocks of the lower peak of the +Aiguille du Dru—Our first failure—The expedition resumed—A new +line of ascent—We reach the sticking point—Beaten back—The +results gained by the two days’ climbing +CHAPTER IV. +A DAY ACROSS COUNTRY +The art of meteorological vaticination—The climate we leave our 96 +homes for—Observations in the valley—The diligence arrives and +shoots its load—Types of travellers—The Alpine habitué—The +elderly spinster on tour—A stern Briton—A family party—We seek +fresh snow-fields—The Bietschhorn—A sepulchral bivouac—On early +starts and their curious effects on the temperament—A choice of +routes—A deceptive ice gully—The avalanches on the Bietschhorn—We +work up to a dramatic situation—The united party nearly fall +out—A limited panorama—A race for home—Caught out—A short +cut—Driven to extremities—The water jump—An aged person comes to +the rescue—A classical banquet at Ried—The old curé and his +hospitality—A wasted life? +CHAPTER V. +AN OLD FRIEND WITH A NEW FACE +Chamouni again—The hotel _clientèle_—A youthful hero—The 130 +inevitable English family—A scientific gentleman—A dream of the +future—The hereafter of the Alps and of Alpine literature—A +condensed mountain ascent—Wanted, a programme—A double +“Brocken”—A hill-side phenomenon and a familiar character—A +strong argument—Halting doubts and fears—A digression on +mountaineering accidents—“From gay to grave, from lively to +severe”—The storm breaks—A battle with the elements—Beating the +air—The ridge carried by assault—What next, and next?—A +topographical problem and a cool proposal—The descent down the +Vallée Blanche—The old Montanvert hotel—The Montanvert path and +its frequenters +CHAPTER VI. +ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE DU DRU +“_Decies repetita placebit_” +Disadvantages of narratives of personal adventure—Expeditions on 169 +the Aiguille du Dru in 1874—The ridge between the Aiguilles du +Dru and Verte—“Défendu de passer par là”—Distance lends +enchantment—Other climbers attack the peak—View of the mountain +from the Col de Balme—We try the northern side, and fail more +signally than usual—Showing that mountain fever is of the +recurrent type—We take seats below, but have no opportunity of +going up higher—The campaign opens—We go under canvas—A spasmodic +start, and another failure—A change of tactics and a new +leader—Our sixteenth attempt—Sports and pastimes at Chamouni—The +art of cray-fishing—The apparel oft proclaims the man—A canine +acquaintance—A new ally—The turning-point of the expedition—A +rehearsal for the final performance—A difficult descent—A blank +in the narrative—A carriage misadventure—A penultimate failure—We +start with two guides and finish with one—The rocks of the +Dru—Maurer joins the party—Our nineteenth attempt—A narrow escape +in the gully—The arête at last—The final scramble—Our foe is +vanquished and decorated—The return journey—Benighted—A moonlight +descent—We are graciously received—On “fair” mountaineering—The +prestige of new peaks—Chamouni becomes festive—“Heut’ Abend +grosses Feuerwerkfest”—Chamouni dances and shows hospitality—The +scene closes in +CHAPTER VII. +BYE-DAYS IN ALPINE MIDLANDS +1. _A Pardonable Digression._ +On well-ordered intellects—The drawbacks of accurate +memory—Sub-Alpine walks: their admirers and their +recommendations—The “High-Level Route”—The Ruinette—An infallible +prescription for ill-humour—A climb and a meditation on grass +slopes—The agile person’s acrobatic feats—The psychological +effects of sunrise—The ascent of the Ruinette—We return to our +mutton at Arolla—A vision on the hill-side. +2. _A Little Maiden._ +Saas in the olden days—A neglected valley—The mountains drained 236 +dry—A curious omission—The Portienhorn, and its good points as a +mountain—The chef produces a masterpiece—An undesirable tenement +to be let unfurnished—An evicted family—A rapid act of +mountaineering—On the pleasures of little climbs—The various +methods of making new expeditions on one mountain—On the +mountaineer who has nothing to learn, and his consequent +ignorance +CHAPTER VIII. +A SENTIMENTAL ALPINE JOURNEY +Long “waits” and entr’actes—The Mont Buet as an unknown 266 +mountain—We hire carriages—A digression on a stationary vehicle—A +straggling start—The incomplete moralist—The niece to the +moralist—A discourse on gourmets—An artistic interlude—We become +thoughtful, and reach the height of sentiment and the top of the +Mont Buet—Some other members of the party—The mountaineers +perform—How glissading ambition did o’erleap itself—A vision on +the summit—The moralist leaves us for a while—Entertainment at +the Bérard Chalet—View of the Aiguille Verte—The end of the +journey +CHAPTER IX. +A FRAGMENT +An unauthentic MS.—Solitude on the mountain: its advantages to 291 +the historian of the Alps—A rope walk—The crossing of the +Schrund—A novel form of avalanche and an airy situation—A +towering obstacle—The issue of the expedition in the balance—A +very narrow escape—The final rush—Victory!—The perils of the +descent—I plunge _in medias res_—A flying descent +CHAPTER X. +THE FUTURE OF MOUNTAINEERING +Mountaineers and their critics—The early days of the Alpine 300 +Club—The founders of mountaineering—The growth of the +amusement—Novelty and exploration—The formation of +centres—Narrowing of the field of mountaineering—The upward limit +of mountaineering—De Saussure’s experience—Modern development of +climbing—Mr. Whymper’s experience—Mr. Graham’s experience—The +ascent of great heights—Mr. Grove’s views—Messrs. Coxwell and +Glaisher’s balloon experiences—Reasons for dissenting from Mr. +Glaisher’s views—The possibility of ascending Mount +Everest—Physiological aspect of the question—Acclimatisation to +great heights—The direction in which mountaineering should be +developed—The results that may be obtained—Chamouni a century +hence—A Rip van Winkle in the Pennine Alps—The dangers of +mountaineering—Conclusion + + ‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐ + +ILLUSTRATIONS +THE BIETSCHHORN FROM THE PETERSGRAT _Frontispiece_ +THE AIGUILLE DU DRU FROM THE SOUTH _to face page_ 169 +A VISION ON A SUMMIT " 282 + + + + + + + ABOVE THE SNOW LINE + + + + + + CHAPTER I. + + + AN EXPEDITION IN THE OLDEN STYLE + + + Buried records—_Litera scripta manet_—The survival of the unfit—A + literary octopus—Sybaritic mountaineering—On mountain + “form”—Lessons to be learned in the Alps—The growth and spread of + the climbing craze—Variations of the art—A tropical day in the + valley—A deserted hostelry—The hotel staff appears in several + characters—Ascent of the Balfrinhorn—Our baggage train and + transport department—A well-ventilated shelter—On sleeping out: + its advantages on the present occasion—The Mischabelhörner family + group—A plea for Saas and the Fée plateau—We attack the + Südlenzspitz—The art of detecting hidden crevasses—Plans for the + future—Sentiment on a summit—The feast is spread—The + Alphubeljoch—We meet our warmest welcome at an inn. + + +There exists a class of generously-minded folk who display a desire to +improve their fellow-creatures and a love for their species, by referring +pointedly to others for the purpose of mentioning that the objects of +their remarks have never been guilty of certain enormities: a critical +process, which is about equivalent to tarring an individual, but, from +humanitarian considerations, omitting to feather him also. The ordeal, as +applied to others, is unwarrantable; but there is a certain odd pleasure +in subjecting oneself to it. Now, it is but a paraphrase to say that the +more we go about, the more, in all probability, shall we be strengthened +in the conviction that the paradise of fools must have a large acreage. +The average Briton has a constantly present dread that he is likely to do +something to justify his admission into that department of Elysium. The +thought that he has so qualified, will wake him up if it crosses his mind +even in a dream, or make his blood run cold—whatever that may mean—in his +active state. Thus it falls out that he is for ever, as it were, conning +over the pass-book of his actions, and marvelling how few entries he can +find on the credit side, as he does so. It is asserted as a fact (and it +were hard to gainsay the sentiment), that _Litera scripta manet_. No +doubt; but how much more obtrusively true is it that printed matter is as +indestructible as the Hydra? It has occurred sometimes to the writer, on +very, very sleepless nights, to take down from a shelf, to slap the cover +in order to get rid of a considerable amount of dust, and to peruse, in a +volume well-known to all members of the Alpine Club, accounts written +years before, of early mountain expeditions. To trace in some such way, at +any rate to search for, indications of a fancied development of mind has a +curious fascination for the solitary man. Effusions which an author would +jealously hide away from the eyes of his friends, have a strangely +absorbing interest to the man who reflects that he himself was their +perpetrator. + +(M1) + +We most of us, whatever principles we assert on the matter, keep stowed +away, in some corner or another, the overflow of a fancied talent. The +form varies: it may, perhaps, be a five act tragedy, possibly a +psychological disquisition, or a sensational novel in three volumes of MS. +It is a satisfaction to turn such treasures out from time to time when no +eyes are upon us, even if it be only to thank Heaven devoutly that they +have always lain unknown and uncriticised. “Il n’y a rien qui rafraichisse +le sang comme d’avoir su éviter de faire une sottise.” Of work done, of +which the author had no especial reason to be proud, a feeling of +thankfulness in a lesser degree may arise from the consciousness that, if +ever recognised at all, it is now, happily, forgotten. So have these early +effusions sometimes amused, not infrequently astounded, and at the worst +have nearly always brought the wished-for slumber; and yet in Alpine +writings the same accounts were for the most part as faithful +representations as the writer could set down on paper of impressions made +at the time. It has often occurred to me to ask what manner of description +a writer would give of an expedition made many years before. How would the +lapse of time influence him? Would he make light of whatever danger there +was? Would the picture require a very decided coat of varnish to make it +at all recognisable? Would the crudities come out still more strongly, or +would the colours all have faded and sunk harmoniously together in his +picture? The speculation promised to be interesting enough to make it +worth while to give practical effect to the idea. Now the expedition +narrated in this chapter was made in 1870, and possibly, therefore, if a +description were worth giving at all, it had better have been given fresh. +We can always find some proverb tending more or less to justify any course +of action that we may be desirous of pursuing, and by distorting the +meaning of a quotation manage to serve our own ends. Of all the ill-used +remarks of this nature, surely the most often employed is, “Better late +than never;” the extreme elasticity of which saying, in the application +thereof, is well evidenced by the doctor who employed it in justification +of his late arrival when he came on a professional visit to the lady and +found the baby learning its alphabet. + +(M2) + +When an aquarium was a fashionable resort, amongst a good many queer and +loose fish, we became familiar with a monstrously ill-favoured beast +called a cuttle-fish: and may have had a chance of seeing how the animal, +if attacked by his physical superior, resorted to the ingenious plan of +effusing a quantity of ink, and, under cover of this, retreating hastily +backwards out of harm’s way. There are some, less ingenuous than the +Octopus, who retreat first into obscurity and then pour out their effusion +of ink. But it is more common to use the flare of an epigram or of a +proverb, as a conjurer does his wand, to distract attention for the moment +and divert the thought current from matters we do not wish to be too +evident. At any rate, I must in the present instance lay under tribute the +author of Proverbs, and add another straw to the already portentous burden +that they who wish to compound for literary sins have already piled on his +back. Apologising is, however, a dangerous vice, as a well-known writer +has remarked. The account, though a sort of literary congenital cripple, +has still a prescriptive right to live. Besides this expedition was +undertaken in the pre-Sybaritic age of mountaineering, and before the +later refinements of that art and science had taken firm hold of its +votaries. What would the stern explorers of former time have thought, or +said, if they had perceived persons engaged on the glaciers sitting down +on camp-stools to a light refection of truffle pie and cold punch? Such +banquets are not uncommon now, though precisians with a tendency to +dyspepsia still object strongly to them. In those days, too, mountaineers +were not so much differentiated that climbers were talked of by their +fellows like cricketers are described in the book of Lillywhite. “Jones,” +for instance, “is a brilliant cragsman, but inclined to be careless on +moraines.” “Noakes,” again, “remarkably sure and steady on snow, fairly +good in a couloir, would do better if he did not possess such an +astounding appetite and would pay more attention to the use of the rope.” +“Stokes possesses remarkable knowledge of the Alps; on rocks climbs with +his head; we wish we could say honestly that he can climb at all with his +hands and feet.” “Thompson, first-rate step-cutter; walks on snow with the +graceful gait and unlaboured action of a shrimp-catcher at his work: kicks +down every loose stone he touches.” Thus different styles of climbing are +recognised. “Form,” as it is called in climbing, was in the old days an +unknown term, and yet it is probable that the “form” was by no means +inferior to any that can be shown now-a-days. The reason is obvious enough +and the explanation lies simply in the fact that the apprenticeship served +in the mountains was then much longer than it is now. People did not so +often try to ride a steeple-chase before they had learnt to sit in a +saddle, or appreciated that the near side was the best by which to get up. +When this particular expedition was made (towards which I feel that I am +an unconscionable time in making a start) I had been five or six seasons +in the Alps, during the first two of which I had never set foot on a +snow-slope. There had always seemed to me from the first, to be so much +absolutely to learn in mountaineering: there is no less now, indeed there +is more, for the science has been developed, but it seems beyond doubt, +that fewer people recognise the fact. Like most other arts, it can only be +learnt in one way, by constant practice, by constant care and attention +and by always doing everything in the mountains to the best of one’s +ability. Too many may seem to think that there is a royal road, and fail +to recognise that a plebeian does not alter his status by walking along +this variety of highway. + +(M3) + +Time rolled on. The fascination of climbing spread abroad, and it followed +with the increasing number of mountaineers that more and more difficulties +were experienced in attempts to diversify the sport in the Alps alone, and +in emerging from the common herd of climbers. Then a new danger arose. The +sport grew fashionable—a serious symptom to its true lovers. Books of +Alpine adventure readily found readers; novels, and other forms of +nonsense, were written about the mountains; accounts of new expeditions +were telegraphed at once to all parts of the world, and found as important +a place in the newspapers as the Derby betting, or the latest reports as +to the precise medical details of some eminent person’s internal +complaint. Still further did the craving for novelty spread, and more +strange did the means of satisfying it become. The mountains were ascended +without guides: in winter; by people afflicted with mental aberration who +wore tall hats and frock coats on the glaciers; by persons who were +ignorant of the laws of optics as applied to large telescopes; in bad +weather, by wrong routes and so forth. Then, too, set in what may be +called the variation craze. This is very infectious. For those who can see +no beauty in a scene that some one else has gazed on before it is still a +passion. We may still at times, in the Alps, hear people say, “Oh yes, +that is a very fine expedition, no doubt, but I don’t think I care much +about undertaking it; you see so and so has done it; couldn’t we manage to +strike out a different line?” The result is a “variation” expedition. The +composer when hard driven, and not strongly under the influence of the +Muse, will at times take some innocent, simple melody and submit it to +exquisite torture by writing what he is pleased to call variations. +Sometimes he will not rest till he has perpetrated as many as thirty-two +on some innocent little tune of our childhood. The original air becomes +entirely lost, like a sixpence buried in a flour bag, and we may marvel, +for instance, as may the travelled American, at the immense amount of +foreign matter that may be introduced into “Home, sweet home.” Even so +does the climber sometimes practise his art. But for one who entertains a +strict respect for the old order of things, and for the memory of an age +of mountaineering now rapidly passing into oblivion, to write in any such +strain would be intolerable. And so, even as a theatrical manager when his +brilliant play, stolen, or, as it is generally described, “adapted,” from +the French, does not run, I may be allowed to raise the curtain on a +revival of the old drama, a comedy in one short act, and not provided with +any very thrilling “situations.” The “scenarium” lay ready to hand in the +leaves of an old journal, which may possibly share, with other old leaves, +the property of being rather dry. But we are meandering, as it were, in +the valleys, and run some risk of digressing too far from the path which +should lead to the mountain in hand. There is a story of a clergyman who +selected a rather long text as a preface to his discourse, and finding, +when he had read it at length a second time, that his congregation were +mostly disposed in attitudes which might be of attention, but which were, +at the same time, suggestive of slumber, wisely concluded to defer +enlarging upon it till a more fitting occasion, and dismissed his hearers, +or at any rate those present, with the remark that they had heard his text +and that he would not presume to mar its effectiveness by any exordium +upon it. _Revenons._ + +(M4) + +In the early part of August 1870, our party walked one sultry day up the +Saas Valley. The dust glittered thick and yellow on our boots. Many of the +smaller brooks had struck work altogether, while the main river was +reduced to a clear stream trickling lazily down between sloping banks of +rounded white boulders that shone with a painful glare in the strong +sunlight. The more muscular of the grasshoppers found their limbs so +lissom in the warmth that they achieved the most prodigious leaps out of +sheer lightheartedness; for they sprang so far that they could have had no +definite idea where they might chance to light. On the stone walls busy +little lizards, with heaving flanks, scurried about with little fitful +spurts, and vanished abruptly into the crannies, perpetually playing hide +and seek with each other, and always seeming out of breath. The foliage +drooped motionless in the heavy air and the shadows it cast lengthened +along the dusty ground as steadily as the streak on a sundial. The smoke +from the guides’ pipes (and guides, like itinerant nigger minstrels, +always have pipes in their mouths when moving from the scene of one +performance to another) hung in mid air, and the vile choking smell of the +sputtering lucifer matches was perceptible when the laggards reached the +spot where a man a hundred yards ahead had lighted one of these +abominations. + +To pass under the shade of a walnut tree was refreshing like a cold +douche; and to step forth again into the heat and glare made one almost +gasp. Flannel shirts were miserably inadequate to the strain put upon +their absorbent qualities. The potatoes and cabbages were white and +piteously dusty. Even the pumpkins seemed to be trying to bury their plump +forms in the cool recesses of the earth. Everywhere there seemed a +consciousness as of a heavy droning hum. All of which may be concisely +summed up in the now classical opening remark of a well-known comedy +character, one “Perkyn Middlewick” to wit, “It’s ’ot.” + +(M5) + +When within a little distance of the hotel I enquired whether it was worth +while for one of the party to push on to secure rooms. The guides thought, +on the whole, that it was unnecessary, and this opinion was justified +subsequently by the fact that we found ourselves the sole occupants of the +hotel during the week or so that we remained in the district. It was the +year of the war; ugly rumours were about, but very few tourists. +Selecting, therefore, the most luxurious apartment, and having given over +to the care of one Franz, who appeared in the character of “boots” to the +hotel, a remarkable pair of cowhide brogues of original design, as hard as +sabots and much more uncomfortable, I sat down on a stone slab, in order +to cool down to a temperature that might permit of dining without fear of +imperilling digestion. So pleased were the hotel authorities at the +presence of a traveller that they exerted themselves to the utmost to +entertain us well, and with remarkable results. I find a record of the +dinner served. There were ten dishes in consecutive order, exclusive of +what Americans term “fixings.” As to the nature of nine it was difficult +to speak with any degree of certainty, but the tenth was apparently a +blackbird that had perished of starvation and whose attenuated form the +chef had bulged out with extraneous matter. Franz, who seemed to be a sort +of general utility man to the establishment, had thrown off, with the ease +of a Gomersal or a Ducrow, the outward habiliments of a boots and appeared +now as a waiter, in a shirt so hard and starched that he was unable to +bend and could only button his waistcoat by the sense of touch. The repast +over, Franz removed the shirt front and unbent thereupon in manner as in +person. Assuming engaging airs, he entered into conversation, disappearing +however for short intervals at times, in order, as might be inferred from +certain sounds proceeding from an adjoining apartment, to discharge the +duties of a chamber-maid. Subsequently it transpired that he was the +proprietor of the hotel. + +(M6) + +We agreed to commence our mountaineering by an ascent of the Balfrinhorn, +a most charming walk and one which even in those days was considered a +gentle climb. There are few peaks about this district which will better +repay the climber of moderately high ambition, and it is possible to +complete the expedition without retracing the steps. There is no danger, +and it is hard to say to what part of the mountain an enthusiast would +have to go in order to discover any: so the expedition, though perhaps +prosaic, is still very interesting throughout and quite in the olden +style. The solitude at the hotel was somewhat dull, and the conversational +powers of the guides soon exhausted if we travelled beyond the subject of +chamois hunting, I did indeed try on one occasion to explain to them, in +answer to an earnest request, the military system of Great Britain. But, +with a limited vocabulary, the task was not easy and, as I could not think +of any words to express what was meant by red tape, circumlocution, and +short service, my exposition was limited to enlarging on the facts that +the warriors of my native country were exceeding valiant folk with very +fine chests, that they wore highly padded red coats and little hats like +half bonbon boxes cocked on one side and that they would never consent to +be slaves. Burgener, anxious for some more stirring expedition, suggested +that we should climb the Dom from the Saas side or make a first ascent of +the Südlenzspitz. We had often talked of the former expedition, which had +not at the time been achieved, and, in order to facilitate its +accomplishment, divers small grants of money had been sent out from +England to be expended in the construction of a hut some five hours’ walk +above Fée. In answer to enquiries, the guides reported with no small +amount of pride, that the building had been satisfactorily completed and +they were of opinion that it was ready for occupation. At some length the +process of building was described and it really seemed from their account +that they had caused to be erected a shelter of unduly pretentious +dimensions. It appeared, however, that the residence was equally well +placed to serve as a shelter for an ascent of the Südlenzspitz and we +decided ultimately to attack that peak first. Great preparations were +made; an extensive assortment of very inferior blankets was produced and +spread out in the road in front of the hotel, either for airing or some +other ill-defined purpose, possibly from some natural pride in the +extensive resources of the hotel. Then they pulled down and piled into a +little stack, opposite the front door, fire wood enough to roast an ox, or +convert an enthusiast into a saint. + +(M7) + +One fine afternoon we started. The entire staff and _personnel_ of the +hotel would have turned out to wish us good luck, but did not actually do +so, as he was engaged in a back shed milking a cow. Laden with a large +bundle of fire wood, I toiled up the steep grass slopes above Fée, leading +to the Hochbalm glacier. The day was oppressively hot, and I was not +wholly ungrateful on finding that the string round my bundle was loose and +that the sticks dropped out one after another: accordingly I selected a +place in the extreme rear of the caravan, lest my delinquencies should +perchance be observed. The sun beat mercilessly down upon our backs on +these bare slopes and we sighed involuntarily for Vallombrosa or Monaco or +some equally shady place. The guides, who up to that time had spoken of +their building as if it were of somewhat palatial dimensions, now began +rather to disparage the construction. Doubts were expressed as to the +effects certain storms and heavy falls of snow might have had on it and +regrets that the weather had prevented the builders from attending as +minutely to details of finish and decoration as they could have wished. +Putting this and that together, I came to the conclusion that the erection +would probably be found to display but indifferent architectural merit. +However, there was nothing better to look forward to. “Where is it?” “Oh, +right up there, under the big cliff, close to where Alexander is.” In the +dim distance could be distinguished the form of our guide as a little dark +mass progressing on two pink flesh-coloured streaks, striding rapidly up +the hill. The phenomenon of colour was due to the fact that, prompted by +the sultriness of the day, Alexander had adopted in his garb a temporary +variation of the Highland costume. A few minutes later he joined us, +clothed indeed, and in a right, but still a melancholy frame of mind. +Shaking his head sadly, he explained that a grievous disaster had taken +place, evidently in the spring. The forebodings of the +constructively-minded rustics we had left below, who knew about as much of +architecture as they did of metaphysics, proved now to be true. They had +remarked that they feared lest some chance stone should have fallen, and +possibly have inflicted damage on the hut. Why they had selected a site +where such an accident might happen, was not at the moment quite obvious, +but it became so later on. Burgener told us that the roof had been carried +away. Beyond question the roof was gone; at any rate it was not there, and +the rock must have fallen in a remarkable way indeed, for the cliff above +was slightly overhanging, and the falling boulder, which was held +accountable for the disaster, had carried away every vestige of wood-work +about the place, not leaving even a splinter or a chip. However, to the +credit of the builders, be it said that they had tidied up and swept very +nicely, for there was no sawdust to be seen anywhere, nor indeed, any +trace of carpentering work. The hut consequently resolved itself into a +semi-circular stone wall, very much out of the perpendicular, built +against a rock face. The chief architect, evidently a thoughtful person, +had not omitted to leave a door. But it was easier on the whole to step +over the wall, which I did, with as much scorn as Remus himself could have +thrown into the action when seeking to aggravate his brother Romulus. So +we entered into possession of the premises without, at any rate, the +trouble of any preliminary legal formalities. + +(M8) + +In the matter of sleeping out, all mountaineers pass, provided they keep +long enough at it, through three stages. In the early period, when imbued +with what has been poetically termed the “ecstatic alacrity” of youth, +they burn with a desire to undergo hardship on mountains. Possibly a +craving for sympathy in discomfort—that most universal of human +attributes—prompts them to spend their nights in the most unsuitable +places for repose. The practical carrying out of this tendency is apt to +freeze very literally their ardour; at least, it did so in our case. Then +follows a period during which the climber laughs to scorn any idea of +dividing his mountain expedition. He starts the moment after midnight and +plods along with a gait as free and elastic as that of a stage pilgrim or +a competitor in a six days’ “go-as-you-please” pedestrian contest: for +those who have a certain gift of somnambulism this method has its +advantages. Finally comes a stage when the climber’s one thought is to get +all the enjoyment possible out of his expedition and to get it in the way +that seems best at the time. Now again he may be found at times tenanting +huts, or the forms of shelter which are supposed to represent them. But +his manner is changed; he no longer travels burdened with the impedimenta +of his earlier days. He never looks at his watch now, except to ascertain +the utmost limit of time he can dwell on a view. With advancing years and +increasing Alpine wisdom, he derides the idea of accurately timing an +expedition. His pedometer is probably left at home; he eats whenever he is +hungry, and ceases to consider it a _sine quâ non_ that he must return to +hotel quarters in time for dinner. Nor does he ever commit the youthful +folly of walking at the rate of five miles an hour along the mule path in +the valley or the high road at the end of an expedition, gaining thereby +sore feet and absolutely nothing else. When he has reached this stage, +however, he is considered _passé_; and when he has reached this stage he +probably begins really to appreciate to the full the depth of the charm to +be found in mountaineering. + +But I digress even as the driven pig. A miserable night did we spend +behind the stone wall. About 9 P.M. came a furious hail-storm: at 10 P.M. +rain fell heavily: at 11 P.M. snow began and went on till daybreak about 4 +A.M. At 5 A.M. we got up quite stiff and stark like a recently killed +villain of melodrama, when carried off the stage by four supers. By 6 A.M. +I had got into my boots. At 9 A.M. we swooped down once more on Franz at +the hotel at Saas, persuaded him to relinquish certain scavenging +occupations in which he was engaged, and to resume his post of waiter. A +day or two later we sought our shelter once more. No luxurious provisions +did we take with us. Some remarkable red wine, so sour that it forced one +involuntarily to turn the head round over the shoulder on drinking it, +filled one knapsack. The other contained slices of bread with parallel +strata of a greasy nature intervening. These were spoken of, when we had +occasion to allude to them, as sandwiches. The fat was found to be an +excellent emollient to my boots. + +(M9) + +The Südlenzspitz, though tall, labours under the topographical +disadvantage of being placed in the company of giants. Close by, on the +north side, is the Nadelhorn (14,876 ft.), while to the south, at no great +distance, the Dom towers far above, reaching a height of 14,942 feet. In +the Federal map of Switzerland (which is not very accurate in its +delineation of the Saas district), the height of the Südlenzspitz is +marked as 14,108 ft. North and south from the Südlenzspitz, stretch away +well-marked, but not particularly sharp ridges, the northern being chiefly +of snow, and inclined at a moderate angle. To the east, a sharper rocky +ridge falls away, terminating below, after the fashion of a “rational” +divided skirt, in two undecided continuations which enclosed the Fall +glacier. Climbing up by this ridge, Mr. W. W. Graham ascended the mountain +in 1882. The “variation” is described as presenting very serious +difficulties. But in our day, the old-fashioned custom of ascending +mountains by the most obviously practicable way was still in vogue, and we +decided, therefore, to make for the northern buttress. Leaping over the +wall enclosing the ground-floor of our bivouac, we descended on to the +Hochbalm glacier, made our way across the upper snow basin, and in good +time reached the foot of the slope no great distance south of the +Nadelhorn. The view during this part of the walk is very characteristic of +the range. From almost any point of view, the traveller is surrounded on +three sides by a clearly marked amphitheatre of very beautifully formed +mountains. On the right, the shapely little Ulrichshorn rises up in a +self-sufficient manner, like a single artichoke in a vegetable dish. In +front is the mass of the Nadelhorn and Südlenzspitz, while, looking back, +the view of the mountains on the east side of the Saas valley is one of +great and varied beauty. It must be confessed that these statements are +derived principally from a contemplation of the map, for, to tell the +truth, the recollection of the panorama we actually saw is rather +indistinct. This much, however, I may record with confidence; that in all +parts of the Saas district, the views struck me, in a day when I did not +very much look at them, as possessing strong individuality and the +greatest beauty. + +(M10) + +The Zermatt district may be still more striking, and they who have no time +to visit both, no doubt do wisely to seek the more hackneyed valley. But +for such as do not look upon guide-book statements as the dicta of an +autocrat, and can exercise a thousandth part of the independence of +judgment they manifest in the ordinary affairs of life, a brief deviation +to the Saas country will come as a revelation. After the crowd, dust, and +bustle of the highway to the recognised centre of the Alps, to turn aside +to this region is a relief, like stepping out of a crowded ball-room on to +a verandah, or gliding away in a gondola from the railway station at +Venice. Look, too, at the architecture of the great mountains here, and +the spectator will perceive how nature has succeeded to perfection in +achieving what all artists fail in doing; that is in designing, and in a +manner that precludes criticism, a pendant; and a pendant too to the +Zermatt panorama. The necessary object in the foreground of the +picture—which we all know to be an hotel—is provided. Who but nature would +think of framing a pure white picture in a setting of the soft green +pastures below, and the deep blue sky above? but here it is, and it is +perfect. Yet the blue of the sky is repeated in the picture, for the +towering séracs throw azure shadows on the satin-smooth snow slopes at +their feet. Rest, strength, eternal solidity above in the mountain forms +and crags; repose, softness, and the charm of a brightness below that must +yield and fade before long to gather force for fresh development and +renewal. No need to seek far for a parallel in our human world. Between +the two districts, Zermatt and Saas-Fée, there is but the difference +between the man who impresses at once by the force of character, and the +man who has to be studied and learned before we recognise that he is +something beyond the ordinary run of our fellow-creatures. + +(M11) + +Before leaving England we had made tolerably minute inquiries, but had +failed to discover any record of a previous ascent of the Südlenzspitz, +though, as suggested by Mr. W. M. Conway, the mountain may have been +previously climbed by Mr. Chapman. Some uncertainty, therefore, whether we +should find any traces of previous climbers, gave the required piquancy to +the expedition. We made at once up the slope for a long rocky buttress, +and towards a part of the mountain down which the guides asserted stones +had been known to fall in the afternoon. This statement was probably made +with a view of encouraging their charge to greater exertions, for an old +sprained ankle compelled me to the continual necessity of putting my best +foot foremost in walking over difficult places. Still, the rocks were at +no point very formidable, and progress was rendered somewhat easier by the +fact that no critical companion was with me, so I felt at perfect liberty +to transport myself upwards in any style that happened to suit the +exigencies of the moment. I had not at that time quite passed the stage of +believing all that the guides asserted with reference to the climbing +capacities of the individual who pays them for assisting his locomotion, +and had a distinct idea that I mastered all the obstacles in a +particularly skilful manner. They said as much in fact, but reiterated +their compliments so often that I somewhat fear now that I must frequently +have given occasion for these remarks of approbation; remarks which I have +since observed are more frequently called forth to cover a blunder than to +praise an exhibition of science. Probably my progress was about as +graceful and sure as that of a weak-legged puppy placed for the first time +in its life on a frozen pond, or a cockroach seeking to escape from the +entrapping basin, for I had not then developed, in climbing rocks, the +adhesive powers of—say the chest, which longer practice will sometimes +furnish. We were accompanied by a porter of advanced years whose +conversational powers were limited by an odd practice of carrying heavy +parcels in his mouth. The day before he had carried up a large beam of +wood for the camp fire in this manner. I never met a man with so much jaw +and so little talk. He had apparently come out in order to practise +himself for the mastication of the Saas mutton, for at the end of the day +he would accept of nothing but a sum of two francs, for which I was very +thankful. Similar disinterestedness in men of his class is not often met +with nowadays. + +(M12) + +After awhile we left the buttress of rock and turned our attention to a +snow slope and made our way up its crest. Here steps were necessary but +there was no particular difficulty, for the slope resembled a modern +French drawing-room tragedy, in that it was as broad as it was long. We +had but to feel that the rope was taut, and could then look about with +security. In good time we stepped on to the ridge, and a glance upwards +showed that the way was easy enough. We could not but feel that if we were +to achieve the honour of a first ascent, such honour would be principally +due to the fact that we had subdivided the secondary peaks of the chain +more minutely than other travellers. The principle has been carried still +further in these latter days, and as any little pale fish that can be +caught and fried is considered whitebait, and any article that ladies +choose to attach to their heads is termed a bonnet, so any point that can +be climbed by an individual line of ascent is now held to be a separate +mountain. A considerable snow cornice hung over on the northern side of +the arête and great care was necessary, for the ridge itself was so broad +and easy, that less careful guides might have made light of it; but +Burgener, though he had already acquired a reputation for brilliancy and +dash, never suffered himself for one moment to lose sight of the two great +qualities in a guide, caution and thoroughness. At each step he probed the +snow in front of him with all the diligence of a chiffonnier. It followed +that our progress was somewhat slow, but it was none the less highly +instructive. The accurate sense of touch in probing doubtful snow with the +axe requires and deserves very much more practice than most people would +imagine. The unpractised mountaineer may climb with more or less ease a +difficult rock the first time he is brought face to face with it, but long +and carefully acquired experience is necessary before a man can estimate +with certainty the bearing power of a snow bridge with a single thrust of +the axe. Indeed many guides of reputation either do not possess or never +acquire the muscular sense necessary to enable them to form a reliable +opinion on this matter. As a rule, if the rope be properly used and such a +mistake be made, somebody plunges through, is hauled out again and no harm +is done; but there are occasions when serious accidents have happened, +when probably lives have been lost owing to want of skilled knowledge in +this detail of snow mountaineering. I have known guides who never failed +when they came to a treacherous-looking bridge, to give it one apparently +careless thrust with the axe and then walk across with perfect confidence; +and I have seen others do exactly the same and disappear suddenly to cool +regions below through the bridge; and _vice versâ_. The unskilful prober +will make wide detours when he might go in safety, and the man of good +snow touch will avoid what looks sound enough: till in returning, perhaps +you see that the hard crust concealed but rotten things beneath: as in an +ill-made dumpling. It needs no small amount of training to judge between +the man who quickly and with certainty satisfies himself of the safety of +a particular snow passage, and the man who is too careless properly to +investigate it; yet without such experience the amateur is not really able +to decide whether a guide be a good or a bad one. + +(M13) + +Here and there along the ridge short rock passages gave a welcome relief +and at length we stood on the highest point of the ridge which culminates +so gently in the actual peak of the Südlenzspitz. Our first care was to +scrape about and hunt diligently for traces of any previous party. No +relic of conviviality could be found, and as all the flat stones about +appeared to be in their natural state of disorder, we piled up some of +them into a neat little heap, and came to the conclusion that we had +performed very doughty deeds. But we were younger then. The sun was out, +there was a dead calm, and we lay for a while basking in the warmth and +planning a serious expedition for some future year. It may seem strange in +these days of rocket-like mountaineering when the climber, like the poet, +_nascitur non fit_, but the peak whose assault we discussed was none other +than the Matterhorn. It was no longer thought that goblins and elves +tenanted its crags; but although these spectres had not yet been +frightened away and turned out of house and home by sardine boxes and +broken bottles, some trace of prestige still adhered to the mountain. It +had not then, like a galley slave, been bound with chains, or, even as a +trussed chicken, girt about with many cords. Nor was the ascent of the +peak then talked about as carelessly as might be a walk along Margate +pier. Alexander Burgener had never been up the peak, though he was most +anxious to get an opportunity of doing so. I can remember well the advice +that was given to me on the top of the Südlenzspitz to practise further on +a few less formidable mountains before attacking the fascinating Mont +Cervin itself. Alas for the old days and the old style of mountaineering! +It may be doubted whether such discussions often take place nowadays; but +then it was only my sixth season in the Alps. The following year we did +hatch out the project laid on the top of the Südlenzspitz to climb the +Matterhorn together. To this moment I can remember as I write every detail +of the climb and every incident of the day as vividly as if it were +yesterday; and what a splendid expedition it was then. The old, old +fascination can never come back again in quite the same colours; better, +perhaps, that it should not. Is it always true that “a sorrow’s crown of +sorrow is remembering happier things”? Surely there is a keenness and a +depth of pleasure to be found in recalling happiness, though it may never +return in its old form; and the memory of pleasure just toned with a trace +of sadness is one of the most profound emotions that can stir the human +heart. Go on and climb the Alps ye that follow: nowhere else will you find +the same pleasure. But it is changed, and in this amusement the old +fascination will never be quite the same to you. It may be, it will be, +equally keen, but as there is a difference between skating on virgin ice +and that which, though still good, is scored by marks of predecessors, so +will you fail to find a something which in the olden days of +mountaineering seemed always present. Go elsewhere if you will, and seek +fresh fields for mountaineering enterprise in the Caucasus, the Himalayas, +the Andes. There you will find the mountains have a charm of their own: +the mark is as good, but it is not the Alpine mark. That has been taken by +others. _Beati possidentes._ + +(M14) + +Judging by the nature of these sentiments it would seem that we must have +become pensive to the verge of slumber while on the summit. In descending, +we followed our morning’s tracks, and scorning the seductive shelter of +the hut made straight down for the hotel. On this occasion we found Franz, +who was a man of varied resources and accomplishments, hanging his shirt, +which apparently he had just washed, up to dry. Our unexpected arrival +appeared to disconcert him a little, for the straitened nature of his +wardrobe precluded him, to his great disappointment, from appearing at +dinner in full costume. He conceived, however, an ingenious, though +somewhat transparent subterfuge, and made believe that he had got a bad +cold in the chest which compelled him to button his coat up tight round +the neck. In honour of our achievements he said he would go down to the +cellar and bring us up a curious old wine. The cellar consisted apparently +of a packing-case in a shed. Old the wine may have been; curious it +certainly was, for it possessed a strong heathery flavour and seemed to +turn hot very suddenly and stick fast in the throat like champagne at a +suburban charity ball. But nevertheless, with the remnants of the +blackbird or some other _rara avis_ made into a species of pie, we feasted +royally. + +A few days later we crossed over to Zermatt by the Alphubel Joch, a heavy +fall of snow having prevented any idea of making our contemplated assault +on the Dom. A Swiss gentleman of a lively nature and excessive loquacity +accompanied us. He was not an adroit snow walker, and disappeared on some +five or six occasions abruptly into crevasses. The moment, however, that +he got his head out again, he resumed his narrative at the exact point at +which it had been perforce broken off without exhibiting the least +discomposure. The subject to which his remarks referred I did not succeed +in ascertaining. We parted at a little chalet not far from the Riffel, +leaving our friend lying flat on his back on the grass contemplating the +sky with a fixed expression, with his hands folded over his waistcoat. He +may have been a poet inspired with a sudden desire for composition for +aught I know, or may have assumed this attitude as likely to facilitate +the absorption of a prodigious quantity of milk which he took at the +chalet. + +As we drew nearer to the odd mixture of highly coloured huts and +comfortable hotels that make up the village of Zermatt, a sense of +returning home crept over the mind, a consciousness of friends at hand, of +warm welcomes, mixed with the half presentiment that is always felt on +such occasions, that some change would be found; but happily it was not +so. The roadway was in its former state; the cobble stones a trifle more +irregular and worn more smooth, but still the same. The same guides, or +their prototypes, were sitting on the same wall drumming their heels. The +same artist was hard at work on a sketch of the Matterhorn in a field hard +by. The same party just returning from the Görner Grat. The same man +looking out with sun-scorched face from the salon window and the same +click from the self-willed billiard balls on the uncertain table below. +Ay, and the same unmistakable heartfelt greetings and handshakings at the +door of the Monte Rosa. Churlish indeed should we have been if we had +sighed to think that we had met our warmest welcome at an inn. + + + + + + CHAPTER II. + + + THE ROTHHORN (MOMING) FROM ZERMATT + + + The Alpine dramatis personæ—Mountaineering fact and romance—The + thirst for novelty and its symptoms—The first ascent of the + Moming—Preliminaries are observed—Rock _v._ snow mountains—The + amateur and the guide on rocks and on snow—The programme is made + out—Franz Andermatten—Falling stones in the gully—We smooth away + the difficulties—The psychological effects of reaching mountain + summits—A rock bombardment and a narrow escape—The youthful + tourist and his baggage—Hotel trials—We are interviewed—The + gushers. + + +The writer of an Alpine narrative labours under more disadvantages than +most literary folk—if authors generally will permit the association, and +allow that those who rush into print with their Alpine experiences have +the smallest claim to be dignified with such a title. One drawback is that +their accounts necessarily suffer from a paucity of characters. A five-act +tragedy supported, to use a theatrical expression, by two walking +gentlemen, one heavy lead and a low comedy “super,” might possibly pall +upon an audience, but in Alpine literature, if I may be permitted to push +the metaphor a little further, not only is this the case but the unhappy +reader finds the characters like “barn stormers” playing now comedy, now +tragedy, and sometimes, it may possibly be added, dramas of romance. + +(M15) + +Again, in all matters absolutely relating to mountaineering in the Alps, +the narrator feels bound to stick to matters of fact. The drama of romance +must be excluded from his répertoire, or, at any rate, very cautiously +handled. I knew a man once, who on a single occasion went a-fishing in +Norway and caught a salmon. Naturally he was proud of the achievement, and +when in the company of brother sportsmen, would hold up his head, assume a +knowing air, and take part in the conversation, such conversation +relating, of course, to the size of the various fish those present had +caught. Such unswerving and prosaic veracity did my friend possess, that, +though sorely tempted as he must have been on many occasions, for ten +years he never added a single ounce to the weight of his fish. A writer, +an Alpine scribbler at any rate, is perhaps justified if he introduces +incidents into an account of an expedition which may not have happened on +that particular occasion, but which did happen on some other; and surely +he may, without impropriety, romance a little on such part of his work as +is not strictly geographical; for example, he may describe a chalet as +being dirty, when according to the peasant’s standard of cleanliness it +would have been considered spotless, or describe a view as magnificent, +when as a matter of fact he paid no attention to it, but he would be +acting most culpably if he asserted that he got within fifty feet of the +summit, well knowing that he was not fifty feet from the base of the peak, +or if he stated that rocks were impossible, or an ice-fall impracticable, +when the sole reason for his failure consisted in his being possessed with +a strong desire to go back home. Of course a writer can only give his own +impressions, and these are much tempered by increased experience and the +lapse of time, but in taking up old accounts of Alpine work one not +unfrequently finds a good deal of description that requires toning down. +In these sketches I have striven honestly to render all that relates +intimately to the actual mountains as accurate as possible, and would +sooner be considered a dull than an unreliable historian. + +It is no easy matter to reproduce almost on the spot an account of a climb +with absolute accuracy, however strong the desire may be to do so. +Besides, a climber does not pursue his pastime with a note book +perpetually open before him. If he does, his mountaineering is more of a +business than he is usually willing to admit. The guide often, the amateur +commonly, fails to recognise exactly from a distance a line of ascent or +descent on rocks, though but just completed. Still more difficult is it to +work out the precise details of a particular route on a map or photograph. +The microscopist knows that the higher powers of his instrument give him +no additional insight into the structure of certain objects, but rather +mislead. Even so may my readers be asked to employ but gymnoscopic +criticism of these sketches. + +(M16) + +In September 1872 our party reached Zermatt from Chamouni by the +“high-level” route, a series of walks which no amount of familiarity will +ever deprive of their charm, and concerning which more will be found +elsewhere in this work. All Alpine climbers were then burning as fiercely +as they ever did to achieve something new. They had just begun to realise +that the stock of new peaks and passes was not inexhaustible, and that the +supply was wholly inadequate to meet the demand. This feeling showed +itself in various ways. Climbers looked upon each other with something of +suspicion and jealousy, and if any new expedition was being planned by any +one of their number the others would quickly recognise the state of +affairs. If an Alpine man were found secreted in obscure corners +conversing in a low voice with his guides and intent on a study of the +map, or if he returned evasive answers when questioned as to his plans, he +was at once set down as having, probably, a new expedition in mind. As for +the guides, they assumed at once airs of importance, as does a commencing +schoolboy newly arrayed in a tall hat, and exhibited such mystery that +their intentions were unmistakable. Their behaviour, indeed, may have been +partly due to the fact that the natural efforts of their comrades to +extract information was invariably accompanied by somewhat undue +hospitality, and their brotherly feelings were usually expressed in an +acceptably liquid form. As a rule such hospitality did not fail in its +object. Whether due to a certain natural leakiness of mind on the part of +the guides or not, I cannot say, but certainly the information always +oozed out, and the intentions of the party were invariably thoroughly well +known before the expedition actually started to achieve fresh glory. Every +one of the first-rate peaks in the Zermatt district had been ascended, +most of them over and over again, before 1872, but the Rothhorn was still +out of the pale of the Zermatt expeditions. Messrs. Leslie Stephen and F. +Craufurd Grove, who first climbed the peak, ascended it from Zinal, and +descended to the same place. It seemed to us, therefore, that if we could +prove the accessibility of the mountain from Zermatt, we should do +something more than merely climb the peak by a new route. The rocks looked +attractive, and the peak itself lay so immediately above Zermatt that it +seemed possible enough to make the ascent without sleeping out or +consuming any great amount of time. + +We went through all the necessary preliminary formalities. We assumed airs +of mystery at times; why, I know not. We inspected distant peaks through +the telescope. At other times we displayed an excess of candour, and +talked effusively about districts remote from that which we intended to +investigate. We climbed up a hill, and surveyed the face of our mountain +through a telescope, thereby wasting a day and acquiring no information +whatever. We pointed out to each other the parts of the mountain which +appeared most difficult, and displayed marvellous differences of opinion +on the subject, owing, as it is usually the case, to the circumstance that +we were commonly, in all probability, talking at the same time about +totally distinct parts of the peak. With the telescope I succeeded in +discovering to my own entire satisfaction a perfectly impracticable route +to the summit. Finally, in order that no single precaution might be +omitted to ensure success, we sent up the guides to reconnoitre—a most +useless proceeding. We had new nails put in our boots, ordered provisions, +uncoiled our rope and coiled it up again quite unnecessarily, gave +directions that we should be called at an unhallowed hour in the morning, +and went to bed under the impression that we should not be object in the +least to turn out at the time arranged. + +(M17) + +It is on the rock mountains of Switzerland that the acme of enjoyment is +to be found. Not that I wish to disparage the snow-peaks; but if a +comparison be instituted it is to most climbers, at any rate in their +youthful days, infinitely in favour of the rock. Of course it may be +argued that there are comparatively few mountains where the two are not +combined. But a mountaineer classifies peaks roughly as rock or snow, +according to the chief obstacles that each presents. A climber may +encounter serious difficulties in the way of bergschrunds, steep couloirs, +soft snow, and so forth; but if on the same expedition he meets with rocks +which compel him to put forth greater energies and perseverance than the +snow required, he will set the expedition down as a difficult rock climb, +simply, of course, because the idea of difficulty which is most vividly +impressed on his mind is in connection with that portion of his climb, and +_vice versâ_. An undeniable drawback to the snow peaks consists in their +monotony. The long series of steps that have to be cut at times, or the +dreary wading for hours through soft or powdery snow, are not always +forgotten in the pleasure of overcoming the difficulties of a crevasse, +reaching the summit of a peak, or the excitement of a good glissade. It is +the diversity of obstacles that meet the rock climber, the uncertainty as +to what may turn up next, the doubt as to the possibility of finding the +friendly crack or the apposite ledge, that constitute some of the main +charms. Every step is different, every muscle is called into play as the +climber is now flattened against a rough slab, now abnormally stretched +from one hold to another, or folded up like the conventional pictures of +the ibex, and every step can be recalled afterwards with pleasure and +amusement as the mountain is climbed over again in imagination. + +(M18) + +But there is more than this; on rocks the amateur is much less dependent +on his guides and has much more opportunity of exercising his own powers. +It must be admitted that on rocks some amateurs are occasionally wholly +dependent not on, but from their guides, and take no more active share in +locomotion than does a bale of goods in its transit from a ship’s hold to +a warehouse. Too often the amateurs who will not take the trouble to learn +something of the science and art of mountaineering are but an impediment, +an extra burden, as has been often said, to the guides. The guides have to +hack out huge steps for their benefit. The amateurs wholly trust to them +for steering clear of avalanches, rotten snow bridges, and the like. The +amateur’s share in a snow ascent usually consists, in fact, either in +counselling retreat, insisting on progress, indicating impossible lines of +ascent, or in the highly intellectual and arithmetical exercise of +counting the number of steps hewn out to ensure his locomotion in the +proper direction. + +Place the unpaid climber, on the other hand, on rocks. Here the +probability is that a slip will entail no unpleasant consequences to +anyone but the slipper. The power of sustaining a sudden strain is so +enormously increased when the hands have a firm grip that the amateur can, +if he please, sprawl and scramble unaided over difficult places with +satisfaction to himself and usually without risk to anyone else; that is, +as soon as he has fully persuaded the guides (no easy task, I admit) that +the process of pulling vehemently at the rope, possibly encircling his +waist in a slip knot, is as detrimental to his equilibrium as it is to his +digestion. Guides, however, as has been hinted, do not acknowledge this +fact in animal mechanics, and their employers frequently experience as an +acute torture that compressing process which, more deliberately applied, +is not regarded by some as hurtful, but rather as a necessary +accompaniment of fashionable attire. When the amateur has succeeded in +overcoming the natural instinct of the guides to pull when there is no +occasion to do so, he becomes a unit in the party, a burden of course, and +a hindrance to some guides, but nothing to what he was on the snow. + +Sentiments similar to the above have not unfrequently been set forth in +print: they seldom, if ever, actuate the minds of mountaineers when +actually engaged in their pastime or when describing their exploits to +less skilled persons. + +There is great satisfaction, too, in translating one’s self over a given +difficult rock passage without other assistance than that provided by +nature herself, and without surreptitious aid from one’s neighbour in the +shape of steps. Then again, snow mountains are as inconsistent as cheap +aneroids. One day each step costs much labour and toil, and almost the +next perhaps the peak will allow itself to be conquered in one-tenth of +the time. Not that the writer seeks to argue that there is no pleasure to +be derived from snow mountains. It is to climbing _per se_ that these +remarks apply. After all, everyone has his own opinion; but he who has not +tasted the pleasures of a really difficult and successful rock +climb—especially if it be a new one—knows not what the Alps can really do +for his amusement. + +(M19) + +An expedition of suitable magnitude and difficulty was suggested by the +guides, viz. an ascent of the Rothhorn (or Moming) from the Zermatt side. +Mr. Passingham of Cambridge was at the time staying at the Monte Rosa +Hotel, and it was soon arranged that we should combine our forces. The +guides, on being asked their opinion as to the projected climb, reported +diplomatically that, given fine weather, the ascent would be difficult but +possible. This is the answer that the guides generally do give. We decided +to attempt the whole excursion in a single day, considering that a short +rest in the comparatively luxurious beds provided by M. Seiler was +preferable on the whole to more prolonged repose in a shepherd’s hut; for +the so-called repose means usually a night of misery, and the misery under +these conditions is apt to make a man literally acquainted with strange +bed-fellows. At 2 in the morning we sought for the guides’ room, to +superintend the packing of our provisions. It was not easy to find, but at +last we discovered a dingy little subterranean vault with one small window +tightly jammed up and covered with dust. Of this den there were two +occupants. One was employed silently in eating large blocks of a curious +boiled mess out of a pipkin. The other was smoking a very complicated +pipe, and sitting bolt upright on a bench with half a bottle of _vin +ordinaire_ before him. Why he was carousing thus in the small hours was +not evident. From these signs we judged correctly that the apartment was +devoted to the guides as a dining, smoking, club and recreation room. + +Our staff was already in attendance, and it struck both of us that the +success of the expedition was a foregone conclusion if it depended on the +excellence of our guides—Alexander Burgener, the embodiment of strength, +endurance, and pluck; Ferdinand Imseng, of activity and perseverance, +alone would have sufficed, but we had in addition a tough, weather-beaten, +cheery companion (for he was always a companion as well as a guide), Franz +Andermatten, ever sagacious, ever helpful and ever determined. It would be +hard to find a successor adequately to fill our old friend’s place. It is +impossible to efface his memory from my mind, nor can I ever forget how on +that day he showed all his best qualities and contributed mainly to our +success.(1) The prologue is spoken; let us raise the curtain on the +comedy. + +(M20) + +The guides had already made their usual preparations for packing up—that +is to say, they had constructed a multiplicity of little paper parcels and +spread them about the room. As to the contents of these little parcels, +they were of course uncertain, and all had to be undone to make sure that +nothing had been omitted. A good deal of time was thus lost, and nothing +much was gained, except that we corrected the error of packing up a +handful of loose lucifers and two tallow dips with the butter and honey in +a glass tumbler. Then the parcels were stowed away in the knapsacks, the +straps of course all rearranged and ultimately replaced by odds and ends +of string. Eventually, at 3 A.M., we started, leaving the two occupants of +the guides’ room still engaged in the same manner as when they first came +under observation, and walked up the narrow valley running due north of +Zermatt and leading towards the Trift Joch and the base of the mountain +for which we were making. Having journeyed for about half an hour, it was +discovered that the telescope had been left behind. Franz instantly +started off to get it; not because it was considered particularly +necessary, but chiefly on the ground that it is not orthodox to go on a +new expedition without a telescope. We stumbled up the narrow winding +path, and close below the moraine called our first halt and waited for +Franz’s return. I selected a cool rock on which to complete the slumber +which had been commenced in bed and continued on a tilted chair in the +guides’ room. After waiting an hour we decided to proceed, as no answer +was returned to our frequent shouts. Presently, however, a distant yell +attracted our attention, and we beheld, to our astonishment, the cheery +face of Franz looking down on us from the top of the moraine. Stimulated +by this apparition, we pushed on with great vigour, clambered up the +moraine, whose extreme want of cohesion necessitated a treadmill style of +progression, and having reached the top passed along it to the snow. Here +we bore first to the right, and then, working round, made straight for a +sharp-topped buttress which juts out at a right angle from the main mass +of the mountain. Arrived at a patch of rocks near the commencement of the +arête, we disencumbered ourselves of superfluous baggage; that is to say, +after the traditional manner of mountaineers, we discarded about +three-fourths of the impedimenta we had so laboriously dragged up to that +point, and of which at no subsequent period of the expedition did we make +the slightest use. Next, we prepared for such rock difficulties as might +present themselves, by buttoning up our coats as tight as was convenient, +and decorated our heads respectively with woollen extinguishers like unto +the covers placed by old maids over cherished teapots. + +It is a grand moment that, when the difficulty of an expedition opens out, +when you grasp the axe firmly, settle in to the rope, and brace up the +muscles for the effort of the hour: a moment probably the most pleasurable +of the whole expedition, when the peak towers clear and bright above, when +the climber realises that he is on the point of deciding whether he shall +achieve or fail in achieving a long wished for success, or what it may be +perhaps allowable to call a cutting-out expedition (for even mountain +climbers are prone to small jealousies). The excitement on nearing the +actual summit often rather fades away than increases, and the climber +lounges up the last few steps to the top with the same sort of nonchalance +that a guest invited to drink displays in approaching the bar. + +(M21) + +Dividing into two parties, we passed rapidly along the snow ridge which +abuts against the east face of the mountain. The cliffs of the Rothhorn +seem almost to overhang on this face, and were from our point of view +magnificent. On the right, too, the precipice is a sheer one, to employ a +not uncommon epithet. Without much difficulty we clambered up the first +part of the face of the mountain, taking a zigzag course towards the large +gully which is distinctly visible from the other side of the valley, and +which terminates above in a deep jagged notch in the ridge not far below +the summit. Gradually the climbing became more difficult, and it was found +necessary to cross the gully backwards and forwards on several occasions. +In so crossing we were exposed to some risk from falling stones; that is +to say, some chips and bits of rock on a few occasions went flying by +without any very apparent reason. In those days mountaineers were in the +habit of considering these projectiles as a possible source of risk. A +later generation would pass them by as easily as the stones passed by us, +and it is not now the fashion to consider such a situation as we were in +at all dangerous. It is difficult to see the reason why. Perhaps people’s +heads are harder now than they were then. For the greater part of the time +we kept to the left or south side of the gully, and reaching the notch +looked right down upon the commencement of the Glacier du Durand, a fine +expanse of snowfield, singularly wild-looking and much crevassed. Turning +to the right, we ascended a short distance along the ridge, and then a +halt was called. The guides now proceeded to arrange a length of some +hundred feet of rope on the rocks above to assist in our return. The +process sorely tried our patience, and we were right glad when the signal +was given to go on again. We had now to leave the arête, to descend a +little, and so pass on to the west face of the mountain, and by this face +to ascend and gradually work back to the ridge. No doubt during this part +of the climb we made much the same mistake in judgment as had previously +been made on a memorable ascent of the Matterhorn, and crossed far more on +to the face than was really necessary or advisable. The mountain has since +the time when these lines were originally written passed through the +regular stages of gradual depreciation, and it is more difficult now to +realise that we considered it at the time very difficult. Probably, +however, subsequent travellers have improved considerably on the details +of the route we actually followed; at any rate the ascent is now +considered quite proper for a novice to attempt, at any rate by the novice +himself. We worked ourselves slowly along in the teeth of a biting cold +wind, and without finding the fixed rope necessary to assist our progress. +Reaching the ridge again, the way became distinctly easier, and we felt +now that the peak was at our mercy. Presently, however, we came to a huge +inverted pyramid of rock that tried rather successfully to look like the +summit, and we had some little difficulty in surmounting it. By dint of +strange acrobatic feats and considerable exertion we hoisted our leading +guide on to the top. It was fortunate for him perhaps that the seams of +his garments were not machine-sewn, or he would certainly have rent his +raiment. Finding, however, that the only alternative that offered when he +got to the top of the rock was to get down again on the other side, the +rest of us concluded that on the whole we should prefer to walk round. The +last few yards were perfectly easy, and at 1.30 P.M. we stood on the +summit enjoying a most magnificent view in every direction. + +(M22) + +It is a somewhat curious phenomenon, but one frequently remarked, that the +mountaineer’s characteristics seem abruptly to change when he reaches the +summit of a peak. The impressionable, excitable person instantly becomes +preternaturally calm and prosaic, while those of lymphatic temperament +have not unfrequently been observed to develop suddenly rather explosive +qualities, and to yell or wave their hats without any very apparent +incitement thereto. Individuals whose detractors hold to be gifted with +poetic attributes have been heard to utter quite commonplace remarks, and +I have even known a phlegmatic companion so far forget himself, under +these modifying circumstances, as to make an excessively bad pun and laugh +very heartily at it himself, quite an unusual occurrence in a wag. Others +find relief for their feelings by punching their companions violently in +the back, or resorting to such horse-play as the area of the summit allows +scope for. Directly, however, the descent commences the climber resumes +his normal nature. The fact is, that in most cases, perhaps, the chief +pleasure of the expedition does not come at the moment when the climber +realises that he is about to undo, as it were, all his work of the day. +There is no real climax of an expedition, and, as has been said, it is +quite artificial to suppose that the enjoyment must culminate on reaching +the top. But still it is considered proper to testify to some unusual +emotional feelings. Some of the most enjoyable climbs that the mountaineer +can recall in after life, are not those in which he has reached any +particular point. Guides consider it becoming to evince in a somewhat +forced way the liveliness of their delight on completing an ascent. But +such joy as they exhibit is usually about as genuine and heartfelt as an +organ-grinder’s grin, or a Lord Mayor’s smile on receiving a guest whom he +does not know and who has merely come to feed at his expense. + +The wind was too cold to permit of a very long stay on the summit, and +having added a proper number of stones to the cairn, a ceremony as +indispensable as the cutting of a notch in the mainmast when the +traditional fisherman changes his shirt, we descended rapidly to the point +where it was necessary to quit the ridge. Down the first portion of the +steep rock slope we passed with great caution, some of the blocks of stone +being treacherously loose, or only lightly frozen to the face. + +(M23) + +We had arrived at the most difficult part of the whole climb, and at a +rock passage which at that time we considered was the nastiest we had ever +encountered. The smooth, almost unbroken face of the slope scarcely +afforded any foot-hold, and our security almost entirely depended on the +rope we had laid down in our ascent. Had not the rope been in position we +should have varied our route, and no doubt found a line of descent over +this part much easier than the one we actually made for, even without any +help from the fixed cord. Imseng was far below, working his way back to +the arête, while the rest of the party were holding on or moving but +slowly with faces turned to the mountain. Suddenly I heard a shout from +above; those below glanced up at once: a large flat slab of rock, that had +afforded us good hold in ascending, but proved now to have been only +frozen in to a shallow basin of ice, had been dislodged by the slightest +touch from one of the party above, and was sliding down straight at us. It +seemed an age, though the stone could not have had to fall more than ten +feet or so, before it reached us. Just above me it turned its course +slightly; Franz, who was just below, more in its direct line of descent, +attempted to stop the mass, but it ground his hands against the rock and +swept by straight at Imseng. A yell from us hardly awoke him to the +danger: the slab slid on faster and faster, but just as we expected to see +our guide swept away, the rock gave a bound for the first time, and as, +with a startled expression, he flung himself against the rock face, it +leapt up and, flying by within a few inches of his head, thundered down +below. A moment or two of silence followed, and then a modified cheer from +Imseng, as subdued as that of a “super” welcoming a theatrical king, +announced his safety, and he looked up at us with a serious expression on +his face. Franz’s escape had been a remarkably lucky one, but his hands +were badly cut about and bruised. In fact it was a near thing for all of +us, and the mere recollection will still call up that odd sort of thrill a +man experiences on suddenly recollecting at 11 P.M. that he ought to have +dined out that evening with some very particular people. Had not the rock +turned its course just before it reached Franz, and bounded from the face +of the mountain over Imseng’s head, one or more of the party must +unquestionably have been swept away. The place was rather an exceptional +one, and the rock glided a remarkably long distance without a bound, but +still the incident may serve to show that falling stones are not a wholly +imaginary danger. + +(M24) + +It would have been difficult, with the elementary knowledge of +mountaineering that I now see we possessed at that day, to have descended +without using the attached rope, and quite out of the question for anyone +possessed of a proper respect for his suit of dittos to have done so. In +this latter respect we had to exercise economical caution: for we had no +very great store at the hotel or many changes of raiment. It is generally +possible to gauge pretty accurately an Alpine traveller’s experience by +the amount of luggage he takes on a tour. Some tourists, following the +advice given in the “Practical Guide Book” (a disconnected work written in +the style of Mr. Jingle’s conversation, but much in favour at one time), +were in the habit of travelling with one suit of clothes and a portable +bath. The latter, though they took it with them, they seldom took more +than once; at the best it was of comparatively little use as an article of +apparel, but imparted an aromatic flavour to anything packed up in its +immediate neighbourhood. In those youthful days we considered, forsooth, +that a little leathern wallet adequately replaced a portmanteau, and in +transporting luggage did not always act on the sound commercial maxim that +you should never do anything for yourself which a paid person might do +equally well for you; consequently a heavy rain shower reduced the +traveller to inactivity, and an oversight on the part of the laundress +entailed consequences that it is not permissible to mention. + +Meanwhile our turn had come to move on. A zigzagging crack, which was too +narrow to admit of anything but a most uncomfortable position, afforded +the only hand and foot hold on which we could rely. Our gloveless hands, +clutching at the rope, cooled down slowly to an unpleasant temperature +that rendered it doubtful whether they were attached to the arms or not, +and we began to wish we had gone down the Zinal side of the mountain. +However, Imseng wormed himself along the rocks, to which he adhered with +the tenacity of a lizard, and finally reached the end of our rope and a +region of comparative safety. We followed his example slowly, and, having +joined him, seated ourselves on some rocks inappropriately designed for +repose, and finished off the food we had with us. Climbing carefully down +the east face of the mountain, we reached the snow ridge and passed +rapidly along it, our spirits rising exuberantly as we looked back on the +vanquished peak. As usually happens, the guides had entirely forgotten the +place where they had concealed our baggage on the ascent, and in fact had +hidden it so carefully that they had some difficulty in finding it when +they came to the spot. It is curious to note how often the instinct of +guides, so much talked about, is at fault in this matter, and how +systematically they are in the habit of carrying up on the mountains +superfluous articles, hiding them with entirely unnecessary precautions, +and subsequently forgetting the whole transaction. + +(M25) + +While they searched about for their cache we enjoyed the use of tobacco, +if such an expression be allowable in the case of some curious stuff +purchased in the valley. Still, as the packet in which it was contained +was labelled “Tabak,” we considered it to be such. Being indulgently +disposed, and not being profound botanists, poetic license alone enabled +us to imagine that + + “We soared above + Dull earth, in those ambrosial clouds like Jove, + And from our own empyrean height + Looked down upon Zermatt with calm delight.” + +(M26) + +It may have been so; it gave me a sore throat. Descending rapidly, we +reached the Monte Rosa Hotel at 7 P.M., in an exultant frame of mind, a +ragged condition of attire, and a preposterous state of hunger. The whole +time occupied in the climb was sixteen hours. Of this an hour was wasted +while we were waiting for the telescope, and three-quarters of an hour was +spent in arranging the rope, by the aid of which we descended. Probably in +actual climbing and walking we employed rather under thirteen hours; but +the snow was in excellent order, and we descended on the whole very +rapidly. Our trials were not over for the day, when we reached the hotel. +Two arch young things had prepared an ambuscade and surprised us +successfully at the door of the hotel. Sweetly did they gush. “Oh! where +had we been?” We said we had been up in the mountains, indicating the +general line of locality with retrospective thumb. “Oh! wasn’t it +fearfully dangerous? Weren’t we all tied tightly together?” (as if, on the +principle of union being strength, we had been fastened up and bound like +a bundle of quill pens). “Oh! hadn’t we done something very wonderful?” +The situation was becoming irritating. “Oh! didn’t we have to drag +ourselves up precipices by the chamois horns on the tops of our sticks?” +“No indeed——” “Oh! really, now, that guide there” (a driver with +imperfectly buttoned garments who was sitting on the wall with a vacuous +look) “told us you were _such_ wonderful climbers.” It was becoming +exasperating. “And oh! we wanted to ask you so much, for you know all +about it. _Do_ you think we could walk over the Théodule? Papa” (great +heavens! he must be a nonagenarian) “thinks we should be so foolish to +try. Could you persuade him?” “Well, really——” “Wouldn’t the precipices +make us dreadfully giddy?” “No, no more than you are now.” “Oh! thank you +so much. And you really won’t tell us what awful ascent you have been +making?” It was maddening. “After dinner perhaps?” “Oh! thank you. Oh! +Sustie” (this to each other; they both spoke together: probably the names +were Susie and Tottie), “won’t that be delightful?” By dexterous +manœuvring we escaped these gushing Circes during the evening. Happening +to pass later on by the open door of the little _salon_, the following +remark was overheard: “My dear, the conceit of these climbing objects is +quite dreadful. They do nothing but flourish their nasty sticks and ropes +about: they want the whole place to themselves” (we had been sitting on +wooden chairs in the middle of the high street, near an unsavoury heap of +refuse), “and they talk, talk, talk, my dear, all day and all night about +what they have been doing in the mountains and of their nonsensical +climbs. And what frights they look. I think they are perfectly horrid.” +Can the voice have been that of the gusher? + + + + + + CHAPTER III. + + + EARLY ATTEMPTS ON THE AIGUILLE DU DRU + + + The Alps and the early mountaineers—The last peaks to + surrender—The Aiguille du Dru—Messrs. Kennedy and Pendlebury’s + attempt on the peak—One-day expeditions in the Alps and thoughts + on huts and sleeping out—The Chamouni guide system—A word on + guides, past and present—The somnolent landlord and his + peculiarities—Some of the party see a chamois—Doubts as to the + peak and the way—The duplicity of the Aiguille deceives + us—Telescopic observations—An ill-arranged glacier—Franz and his + mighty axe—A start on the rocks in the wrong direction—Progress + reported—An adjournment—The rocks of the lower peak of the + Aiguille du Dru—Our first failure—The expedition resumed—A new + line of ascent—We reach the sticking point—Beaten back—The results + gained by the two days’ climbing. + + +(M27) + +Accounts of failures on the mountains in books of Alpine adventure are as +much out of place, according to some critics, as a new hat in a crowded +church. Humanly speaking, the possession of this head-gear under such +circumstances renders it impossible to divert the thoughts wholly from +worldly affairs. This, however, by the way. Now the pioneers of the Alps, +the Stephenses, the Willses, the Moores, the Morsheads, and many others, +had used up all new material with alarming rapidity, I might say voracity, +before the climbing epoch to which the present sketches relate. There is +an old story of a man who arrived running in a breathless condition on a +railway platform just in time to see the train disappearing. “You didn’t +run fast enough, sir,” remarked the porter to him. “You idiot!” was the +answer, “I ran plenty fast enough, but I didn’t begin running soon +enough.” Even so was it with the climbers of our generation. They climbed +with all possible diligence, but they began their climbing too late. +Novelty, that is the desire for achieving new expeditions, was still +considered of paramount importance, but unfortunately there was very +little new material left. It is difficult to realise adequately now the +real veneration entertained for an untrodden peak. A certain amount of +familiarity seemed indispensable before a new ascent was even seriously +contemplated. It had occurred to certain bold minds that the aiguilles +around Chamouni might not be quite as bad as they looked. In 1873 the +chief of the still unconquered peaks of the Mont Blanc district were the +Aiguille des Charmoz, the Aiguille Blaitière, the Aiguille du Géant, the +Aiguille Peuteret, the Aiguille du Dru, and a few other minor points. All +of these have since been captured, some of them bound in chains. Opinions +differed considerably as to their accessibility. Some hopeful spirits +thought that by constantly “pegging away” they might be scaled; others +thought that the only feasible plan would be indeed to peg away, but were +of opinion that the pegs should be of iron and driven into the rock. Such +views naturally lead to discussions, sometimes rather heated, as to +whether mountaineering morality might fitly tolerate such aids to the +climber. Of all the peaks mentioned above, the Aiguille du Dru and the +Aiguille du Géant were considered as the most hopeful by the leading +guides, though the older members of that body held out little prospect of +success. It is a rather curious fact that the majority of the leading +guides who gave their opinions to us in the matter thought that the +Aiguille du Géant was the more promising peak to attack. Subsequent +experience has proved that they were greatly in error in this judgment. +The Aiguille du Géant has indeed been ascended, but much more aid than is +comprised in the ordinary mountaineer’s equipment was found necessary. In +fact, the stronghold was not carried by direct assault, but by sapping and +mining. There is a certain rock needle in Norway which, I am told, was +once, and once only, ascended by a party on surveying operations bent. No +other means could be found, so a wooden structure was built up around the +peak, such as may be seen investing a dilapidated church steeple; and the +mountain, like the Royal Martyr of history, yielded up its crowning point +at the scaffold. We did not like the prospect of employing any such +architectural means to gain our end and the summit, and, from no very +clearly defined reasons, turned our attention chiefly to the Aiguille du +Dru. Perhaps the prominent appearance of this Aiguille, and the fact that +its outline was so familiar from the Montanvert, gradually imbued us with +a certain sense of familiarity, which ultimately developed into a notion +that if not actually accessible it might at least be worth trying. It +seemed too prominent to be impossible; from its height—12,517 feet +only—the mountain would doubtless not attract much attention, were it not +so advantageously placed. Thousands of tourists had gazed on its +symmetrical form: it had been photographed, stared at through binoculars, +portrayed in little distorted pictures on useless work-boxes, trays and +other toy-shop gimcracks, more often than any other mountain of the chain, +Mont Blanc excepted. Like an undersized volunteer officer, it no doubt +made the most of its height. But in truth the Aiguille du Dru is a +magnificent mountain form, with its vast dark precipices on the north +face, with its long lines of cliff, broken and jagged and sparsely +wrinkled with gullies free from even a patch or trace of snow. Point after +point, and pinnacle after pinnacle catch the gaze as we follow the edge of +the north-west “Kamm,” until the eye rests at last on the singularly +graceful isosceles triangle of rock which forms the peak. It is spoken of +lightly as merely a tooth of rock jutting up from the ridge which +culminates in the Aiguille Verte, but when viewed from the Glacier de la +Charpoua it is obviously a separate mountain; at any rate it became such +when the highest point of the ridge, the Aiguille Verte, had been climbed +by somebody else. The cleft in the ridge on the right side of the main +mass of the Aiguille du Dru is a very deep one as seen from the glacier, +and the sharp needle of rock which is next in the chain is a long way from +the Aiguille du Dru itself. North and south the precipices run sheer down +to the glaciers beneath. The mountain has then four distinct sides, three +of them running down to great depths. Thus, even in the prehistoric days +of Alpine climbing, it had some claim to individuality and might fairly be +considered as something more than, as it were, one unimportant pinnacle on +the roof of some huge cathedral. Perhaps, however, repeated failures to +ascend the mountain begot undue veneration and caused an aspiring climber +to look with a prejudiced eye on its dimensions. + +(M28) + +So far as I know, the mountain had never been assailed till 1873, when +Messrs. Pendlebury and Kennedy made an attempt. Mr. R. Pendlebury has +kindly furnished me with notes of the climb, which I may be allowed to +reproduce nearly in his own words:—Two parties started simultaneously for +the expedition. One was composed of Messrs. Kennedy and Marshall, with the +guides Johann Fischer and Ulric Almer of Grindelwald; the other party +consisted of the Rev. C. Taylor, Messrs. W. M. and R. Pendlebury, with the +guides Hans Baumann, Peter Baumann, and Edouard Cupelin. The +first-mentioned party slept at the Montanvert, while the others enjoyed +themselves in a bivouac high up on the side of the Glacier de la Charpoua +between the Aiguille du Dru and the Aiguille Moine. This Glacier de la +Charpoua, it may be mentioned, is sometimes called the Glacier du Chapeau. + +(M29) + +The bivouac appears to have been so comfortable that Mr. Pendlebury and +his friends did not take advantage of their start. The Montanvert +detachment, who found no such inducement to stay one moment longer than +was absolutely necessary(2) in their costly quarters, caught them up the +next morning, and the whole party started together. Mr. Kennedy’s guides +kept to the left of the Glacier de la Charpoua, which looks more broken up +than the right-hand side, but apparently proved better going. This, +however, it should be observed, was in 1873, and these hanging glaciers +alter marvellously in detail from year to year, though always preserving +from a distance the same general features. On the same principle, at the +proper distance, a mother may be mistaken for her daughter, especially by +a judicious person. But on drawing near, however discreet the observer may +be, he is yet conscious of little furrows, diminutive wrinkles, and +perhaps of a general shrinkage not to be found in the more recent +specimen. Speaking very generally, I should say that these glaciers are, +on the whole, easier to traverse than they used to be: at any rate my own +personal observation of this particular little glacier extends over a +period of some years, and the intricacies—it is hardly proper to call them +difficulties—were distinctly less towards the end of the time than they +were at the beginning. Of course a different interpretation might be put +upon such an opinion: with the evolution of mountaineering skill the +complexity of these crumpled up snow-fields may seem to have disentangled, +but I am assured that in this particular case it was not so. + +(M30) + +This digression must be pardoned. It arose naturally from the circumstance +that the route Mr. Kennedy adopted would have proved, at any rate in later +years, a digression from the best way. Mr. Pendlebury’s party went +straight up, keeping, that is, to the right-hand side of the glacier. +Towards the upper part the snow slopes became steeper, and soon some +step-cutting was required. The object in view was to reach the lowest +point in the ridge between the Aiguille du Dru and the Aiguille Verte. It +was thought that, by turning to the left from the col, it might be +possible to reach the summit by the eastern arête. The col itself from +below seemed easily attainable by means of a narrow zigzagging gully, +interrupted here and there, that runs down from the summit of the ridge. +Ascending by the rocks on the left of the gully the party made for some +little way good progress, but then a sudden change came over the scene. +After a consultation, it was proposed that the guides Hans Baumann, Peter +Baumann, and Fischer should go on a little by themselves and make for the +ridge, which they estimated lay about half an hour above them. They were +then to examine the rocks above and to bring back a report. The rest of +the party remained where they were, and disported themselves as +comfortably as circumstances would permit. Hour after hour, however, +passed away, and the three guides seemed to make but little progress. They +returned at last with the melancholy tidings that they had climbed nearly +up to the ridge and had found the rocks very difficult and dangerous. (It +should be noted that the line of attack chosen on this occasion—the first +serious attempt on the peak—was devised by Hans Baumann, and it says much +for his sagacity that this very route proved years afterwards to be the +right one.) Questioned as to the advisability of proceeding upwards, the +guides employed their favourite figure of speech and remarked that not for +millions of francs would they consent to try again. Hans Baumann asserted +that he had never climbed more difficult rocks. This opinion, as Mr. +Pendlebury suggested at the time, was probably owing to the fact that the +cliffs above were covered with snow and glazed with ice, and this +condition of the mountain face made each step precarious. The amateurs of +the party were of opinion that the ridge would prove attainable later in +the season or in exceptionally fine weather. As to the possibility of +climbing the rocks above—that is to say, the actual peak—none of the party +were able to come to any very positive conclusion. At a rough guess it was +estimated that the party halted between two and three hundred feet below +the ridge. On the presentation of the guides report the whole caravan +turned back and reached Chamouni safely, but not entirely without +incident, for the monotony of the descent and Mr. Taylor’s head were +broken by the fall of a big stone. This little accident, Mr. Pendlebury +remarked with disinterested cheerfulness, was but a trifle. I have not +been able to ascertain Mr. Taylor’s views on the subject. + +When our party first essayed the ascent we knew none of the above +particulars, save only that some mountaineers had endeavoured to reach the +ridge but had failed to ascend to any great height. Of the actual cause of +their ill success, and whether it were owing to the unpropitious elements +or to the actual difficulties encountered, we were unaware. + +(M31) + +At the time of which I am writing, a somewhat novel mode of ascending +mountains was coming into vogue, which consisted in waiting for a suitable +day at headquarters, starting at unheard-of hours, and completing the +expedition in one day—that is, within twenty-four hours. It was argued in +support of this plan, that it was economical and that bivouacking was but +a laborious and expensive method of obtaining discomfort. There are, said +the advocates of the method, but few mountains in the Alps which cannot be +ascended with much greater comfort in one day than in two. The day’s climb +is much more enjoyable when it is possible to start from sleeping quarters +in which it is possible to sleep. The argument that repose in hotel beds, +though undoubtedly more luxurious, was of comparatively little use if +there were no time to enjoy it, was held to be little to the purpose. Some +enthusiasts were wont to state that passing a night in a chalet, or those +magnified sentry boxes called cabanes, constituted half the enjoyment on +the expedition. This is a little strong—like the flavour of the +cabanes—and if it were actually so the whole pleasure would be but small. +The camper out arises in the morning from his delicious couch of soft +new-mown hay in a spotty and sticky condition, attended with considerable +local irritation, and feeling like a person who has recently had his hair +cut, with a pinafore but loosely tied around his neck. Porters, like +barbers, exhibit a propensity for indulging in garlic immediately before +pursuing their avocation, which is not without discomfort to their +employers. (And here I may note as a psychological fact that one action of +this permeating vegetable is to induce confidential propensities in the +consumer. The point may be deemed worthy of investigation, by personal +experiment, by botanists and students of materia medica, men who in the +interests of science are not prone to consider their personal comfort and +finer sensibilities.) Again, in unsettled weather a fine day is often +wasted by journeying up in the afternoon to some chalet, or hovel, merely +to enjoy the pleasure of returning the following morning in the rain. +There is some force too in the argument that but little actual time is +gained by the first day’s performance, for it is very difficult to start +at anything like the prearranged hour for departure from a camp. An +immensity of time is always spent in lighting the morning fire, preparing +breakfast, and getting under way. On the other side, some little time is +undoubtedly saved by discarding the wholly superfluous ceremony of +washing, a process at once suggesting itself to the mind of the Briton +abroad if he beholds a basin and cold water. + +The sum of the argument would seem to be that camping out in some one +else’s hut is but an unpleasant fiction; that if the climber chooses to go +to the expense, he can succeed in making himself a trifle less comfortable +in his own tent or under a rock than he would be in an hotel; and that he +is the wisest man who refrains from bivouacking when it is not really +necessary and is able to make the best of matters when it is: and +undoubtedly for many of the recognised expeditions it is essential to have +every possible minute of spare time in hand. + +(M32) + +We were naturally rather doubtful as to the successful issue of our +expedition, at any rate at the first attempt, and we therefore impressed +upon the guides the necessity of not divulging the plan. The secret, +however, proved to be so big that it was too much for two, and they +imparted consequently so much of the information as they had not adequate +storage for in their own minds to any who chose to listen. Consequently +our intentions were thoroughly well known before we started. There were in +those days, perhaps, more good guides, at any rate there were fewer bad +ones, in Chamouni than are to be found nowadays. We could not, however, +obtain the services—even if we had desired them—of any of the local +celebrities. As a matter of fact, we were both of opinion that a training +in climbing, such as is acquired among the Oberland and Valais men by +chamois hunting and constant rock work, would be most likely to have +produced the qualities which would undoubtedly be needed on the aiguilles. + +The question of the efficiency of the Chamouni guides and of the Chamouni +guide system, a question coeval with mountaineering itself, was burning +then as fiercely as it does now. The Alpine Club had striven in vain to +improve matters; they had pointed out that ability to answer a kind of +mountaineering catechism did not in itself constitute a very reliable test +of a peasant’s power; they had pointed out too that the plan of electing a +“guide chef” from the general body of guides was one most open to abuse, +one sure to lead to favouritism and injustice, and one obviously ill +calculated to bring to the front any specially efficient man. But +unhappily the regulations of the body of guides were, and still are, +entangled hopelessly in the French equivalent for red tape. Jealousy and +mistrust of the German-speaking guides, whom serious mountaineers were +beginning to import in rather formidable numbers, were beginning to awaken +in the simple bosoms of the Savoyard peasants; and our proceedings were +consequently looked upon with contemptuous disfavour by those who had any +knowledge of our project. + +(M33) + +On August 18, 1873, we started. Our guides were Alexander Burgener as +leader, Franz Andermatten, the best of companions, our guide, our friend, +and sometimes our philosopher, as second string, while a taciturn porter +of large frame and small mind, who came from the Saas valley, completed +the tale. Of Burgener’s exceptional talent in climbing difficult rocks we +had had already good proof, and no doubt he was, and still is, a man of +remarkable daring, endurance, and activity on rocks. I had reached then +that stage in the mountaineering art at which a man is prone to consider +the guide he knows best as, beyond all comparison, the best guide that +could possibly exist. The lapse of years renders me perhaps better able +now to form a dispassionate judgment of Burgener’s capacity and skill. +Both were very great. I have seen at their work most of the leaders in +this department. Burgener never had the marvellous neatness and finish so +characteristic of Melchior Anderegg, who, when mountaineering has passed +away into the limbo of extinct sports, such as bear-baiting, croquet, and +pell-mell, will, if he gets his deserts, even by those who remember +Maguignaz, Carrel, Croz, and Almer, still be spoken of as _the_ best guide +that ever lived. Nor was Burgener gifted with the same simple unaffected +qualities which made Jakob Anderegg’s loss so keenly felt, nor the +lightness and agility of Rey or Jaun; but he united well in himself +qualities of strength, carefulness, perseverance and activity, and +possessed in addition the numerous attributes of observation, experience, +and desire for improvement in his art which together make up what is +spoken of as the natural instinct of guides. These were the qualities that +made him a first-rate, indeed an exceptional, guide. _Nunc liberavi animam +meam._ There is an old saying, involving a sound doctrine, that + + When you flatter lay it on thick; + Some will come off, but a deal will stick. + +The porter proved himself a skilful and strong climber, but he was as +silent as an oyster and, like that bivalve mollusc when the freshness of +its youth has passed off, was perpetually on the gape. + +(M34) + +A hot walk—it always is hot along this part—took us up to the Montanvert. +The moonlight threw quaint, fantastic shadows along the path and made the +dewy gossamer filaments which swung from branch to branch across the track +twinkle into grey and silver; and anything more aggravating than these +spiders’ threads at night it is hard to imagine. What earthly purpose +these animals think they serve by this reckless nocturnal expenditure of +bodily glue it is hard to say: possibly the lines are swung across in +order that they may practise equilibrium; possibly the threads may serve +as lines of escape and retreat after the male spinners have been a-wooing. +The atmosphere through the wood was as stuffy as a ship’s saloon in a +storm, and we were right glad to reach the Montanvert at 3.30 A.M. Here, +being athirst, we clamoured for refreshment. The landlord of the +ramshackle hostelry at once appeared in full costume; indeed I observed +that during the summer it was impossible to tell from his attire whether +he had arisen immediately from bed or no. He seemed to act on the +principle of the Norwegian peasant, who apparently undresses once a year +when the winter commences, and resumes his garments when the light once +more comes back and the summer season sets in. Our friend had cultivated +to great perfection the art of half sleeping during his waking hours—that +is, during such time as he might be called upon to provide entertainment +for man and beast. Now at the Montanvert, during the tourists’ season, +this period extended over the whole twenty-four hours. It was necessary, +therefore, in order that he might enjoy a proper physiological period of +rest, for him to remain in a dozing state—a sort of æstival +hybernation—for the whole time, which in fact he did; or else he was by +nature a very dull person, and had actually a very restricted stock of +ideas. + +The landlord produced at once a battered teapot with a little sieve +dangling from its snout, which had been stewing on the hob, and poured out +the contained fluid into two stalked saucers of inconvenient diameter. +Stimulated by this watery extract, we entered into conversation together. +The sight of a tourist with an ice axe led by a kind of reflex process to +the landlord’s unburdening his mind with his usual remarks. Like other +natives of the valley he had but two ideas of “extraordinary” expeditions. +“Monsieur is going to the Jardin?” he remarked. “No, monsieur isn’t.” +“Then beyond a doubt monsieur will cross the Col du Géant?” he said, +playing his trump card. “No, monsieur will not.” “Pardon—where does +monsieur expect to go to?” “On the present occasion we go to try the +Aiguille du Dru.” The landlord smiled in an aggravating manner. “Does +monsieur think he will get up?” “Time will show.” “Ah!” The landlord, who +had a chronic cold in the head, searched for his pockethandkerchief, but +not finding it, modified the necessary sniff into one of derision, and +then demanded the usual exorbitant price for the refreshment, amounting to +about five times the value of the teapot, sieve and all. We paid, and left +him chuckling softly to himself at our insane idea, as he replaced the +teapot on the hob in readiness for the next arrival. That landlord, though +physically sleepy, was still wide awake in matters of finance. He once +charged me five francs for the loan of a secondhand collection of holes +which he termed a blanket. + +(M35) + +We got on to the glacier at the usual point and made straight across the +slippery hummocks to the grass slope encircling the base of the Aiguille +du Dru and the Glacier de la Charpoua. The glacier above gives birth to a +feeble meandering little stream which wanders fitfully down the mountain +side. At first we kept to the left, but after a while crossed the little +torrent, and bearing more to the right plodded leisurely up the steep +grass and rock slope. We had made good progress when of a sudden Franz +gave a loud whistle and then fell flat down. The other two guides +immediately followed his example and beckoned to us with excited +gesticulations to behave in a similarly foolish manner. Thereupon we too +sat down, and enquired what the purport of this performance might be. It +turned out that there was a very little chamois about half a mile off. +Knowing that it would be impossible to induce the guides to move on till +the animal had disappeared, we seized the opportunity of taking an early +breakfast. The guides meanwhile wriggled about on their stomachs, with +eyes starting out of their heads, possessed by an extraordinary desire to +miss no single movement of the object of their attention. “See, it moves,” +said Franz in a whisper. “Himmel! it is feeding,” said Burgener. “It must +be the same that Johann saw three weeks ago.” “Ach! no, that was but a +little one” (no true chamois hunter will ever allow that a brother +sportsman can possibly have set eyes on a larger animal than himself). +“Truly it is fine.” “Thunder weather! it moves its head.” In their +excitement I regretted that I could not share, not being well versed in +hunting craft: my own experience of sport in the Alps being limited to +missing one marmot that was sitting on a rock licking its paws. In due +course the chamois walked away. Apparently much relieved by there being no +further necessity to continue in their former uncomfortable attitudes, the +guides sat up and fell to a warm discussion as to the size of the animal. +A chamois is to a guide as a fish to the baffled angler or the last new +baby to a monthly nurse, and is always pronounced to be beyond question +the finest that has ever been seen. To this they agreed generally, but +Franz, whose spirits had suddenly evaporated, now shook his head dismally, +with the remark that it was unlucky to see a single chamois, and that we +should have no success that day. Undaunted by his croaking, we pursued our +way to the right side of the glacier, while our guide, who had a ballad +appropriate to every occasion, sang rather gaspingly a tremulous little +funeral dirge. We worked well across to the right, in order to obtain the +best possible view of the Aiguille, and halted repeatedly while discussing +the best point at which to attack the rocks. While thus engaged in +reconnoitring close under the cliffs of the ridge running between the +Aiguille Moine and the Aiguille Verte, a considerable block of ice, +falling from the rocks above, whizzed past just in front of us and capered +gaily down the slope. Hereupon we came rather rapidly to the conclusion +that we had better proceed. Half an hour further on we reached the top of +a steep little snow slope, and a point secure from falling stones and ice. +Recognising that we must soon cross back to the rocks of the Dru, we tried +to come to a final conclusion as to the way to be chosen. As usual, +everybody pointed out different routes: even a vestry meeting could hardly +have been less unanimous. Some one now ventured to put a question that had +been troubling in reality our minds for some time past, viz. which of the +peaks that towered above us was really the Aiguille du Dru. On the left +there were two distinct points which, though close together, were +separated apparently by a deep rift, and some distance to the right of the +col which the previous party had tried to reach, a sharp tooth of rock +towered up to a considerable height. Evidently, however, from its position +this latter needle could not be visible from Chamouni or from the +Montanvert. Again, it was clear that the mass comprising the two points +close together must be visible from the valley, but which of the two was +the higher? Alexander gave as his opinion that the more distant of these +two points, that on the right, was the higher, and turned to the porter +for confirmation. That worthy nodded his head affirmatively with extreme +sagacity, evidently implying that he was of the same opinion. Franz on the +other hand thought the left-hand peak was the one that we ought to make +for, arguing that it most resembled the Dru as seen from the Montanvert, +that there was probably little difference in height between the two, that +our ascent would not be believed in unless we were to place a flag on the +point visible from Chamouni, and finally that the left-hand peak seemed to +be the easier, and would probably be found to conceal the sharper point of +the right-hand summit. Having expressed these views, he in turn looked +towards the porter to ascertain his sentiments. The porter, who was +evidently of a complaisant temperament, nodded his head very vigorously to +intimate that these arguments seemed the more powerful of the two to his +mind, and then cocked his head on one side in a knowing manner, intended +to express that he was studying the angles and that he was prepared to +find himself in the right whichever view prevailed. We did not find out +for certain till some time after that the right-hand summit, though +concealed from view by the Montanvert, is very distinctly visible from +Chamouni: excusable ignorance, as most of the Chamouni people are unaware +of it to this day. Professor Forbes, as Mr. Douglas Freshfield has kindly +pointed out to me, with his usual accuracy distinguished and also measured +the two summits, giving their heights respectively as 12,178, and 12,245 +feet.(3) Knowing little as we did then of the details of the mountain, we +followed Franz’s advice and made for the left-hand peak, under the +impression that if one proved accessible the other might also, and there +really seemed no reason why we should not, if occasion demanded, ascend +both. + +(M36) + +Leading up from the glacier two distinct lines of attack presented +themselves. The right-hand ridge descends to the col very precipitously, +but still we had some idea that the rocks did not look wholly impossible. +Again, on the left of the Dru the rocks are cut away very abruptly and +form the long precipitous ridge seen from the Montanvert. This ridge was +so jagged that we could see no possible advantage in climbing to any part +of it, except just at the termination where it merges into the +south-western face of the main mountain. The choice therefore, in our +judgment, lay between storming the mountain by the face right opposite to +us or else making for the col and the right-hand ridge; but the latter was +the route that Messrs. Pendlebury and Kennedy had followed, and we could +not hope to succeed where such giants had failed. Burgener indeed wished +to try, but the rest of the party were unanimously in favour of attempting +to find a way up the face, a route that at the worst had the merit of +novelty. We thought too that if a closer acquaintance proved that the +crags were ill arranged for upward locomotion, we might be able to work +round on the face and so reach the col by a more circuitous route. With +the naked eye—especially a myopic one—the rocks appeared unpromising +enough; while viewed through the telescope the rocks looked utterly +impossible. But little faith, however, can be rested in telescopic +observations of a mountain, so far as the question of determining a route +is concerned. Amateurs, who, as a rule, understand the use of a telescope +much better than guides, have not the requisite experience to determine +the value of what they see, while but few guides see enough to form any +basis for determination. Moreover, the instrument we carried with us, +though it had an extraordinary number of sections and pulled out like the +ill-fated tradesman’s trousers in a pantomime, was not a very remarkable +one in the matter of definition. Still it is always proper and orthodox to +look at a new peak through the telescope, and we were determined not to +neglect any formality on the present occasion. + +(M37) + +We were now rather more than half-way up the Glacier de la Charpoua. To +reach the most promising-looking point at which we might hope to get on +the rocks, it was necessary to travel straight across the snow at about +the level on which we stood. Now, this Glacier de la Charpoua is not +constructed on ordinary principles. Instead of the orthodox transverse +bergschrund it possesses a longitudinal crack running up its whole length, +a peculiarity that vexed us hugely. Half a dozen times did we attempt to +cross by some tempting-looking bridge, but on each occasion we were +brought to a stand by impassable crevasses; then had to turn back, go up a +little farther, and try again. It was already late in the day and we could +ill spare the time lost in this to and fro movement. Eventually we reached +a little patch of rocks not far from the head of the glacier. No sooner +had we reached these rocks than the guides hunted up a suitable place and +concealed some utterly worthless property as carefully as if they expected +evil-minded marauders to be wandering about, seeking what they might +pilfer. Having effected the cache with due care, Franz once again burst +into a strange carol, the burden of which was unintelligible, but the +chorus made frequent allusion to “der Teufel.” We now saw that, after all, +the only feasible plan would be to cut our way still higher up a steep +slope, and thus to work right round, describing a large curve. An +occasional step required to be scraped, for the glacier is in shadow till +late in the morning, owing to the Aiguille Verte intervening and cutting +off the sun’s rays. Throughout the day our second guide had been burning +with a desire to exhibit the good qualities of the most portentous ice axe +I ever saw, an instrument of an unwieldy character resembling a labourer’s +pick on the top of a May pole. Its dimensions were monstrous and its +weight preposterous: moreover, the cutting spike had an evil curve and, +instead of hewing out blocks of ice neatly, preferred to ram a huge hole +in the slope and stick fast therein, while a quiver ran through its mighty +frame and communicated itself to the striker, who shuddered at each blow +as after taking a dose of very bitter physic. However, Franz was so proud +of his halberd that we were obliged to sacrifice rapid progress to the +consideration of his feelings, and he was accordingly sent on to cut the +steps which were now found necessary. With no little exertion did he +construct a staircase of which the steps were about the size of foot +baths, and with no slight impatience did we watch his gymnastics and +athletic flourishes, which were a sort of mixture of tossing the caber and +throwing the hammer combined with a touch of polo. Ultimately we were able +to quit the glacier for the actual face of the mountain, at a point +probably not very much below that struck by the previous party; but it was +our intention at once to bear off to the left. + +(M38) + +We blundered a little on the rocks at first after the long spell of +snow-walking. A cry from Franz caused us to look round, and we perceived +that he had got entangled with the big axe, the spike of which was +sticking into the third button of his waistcoat, causing him, as the +strain on the rope above and below folded him up in a rather painful +manner, to assume the attitude of a mechanical toy monkey on a stick. +Fearing that he might be placed in the condition in which cats’ meat is +usually offered for sale, we slackened the rope and saved him from +impending perforation, but with the result that the axe bounded off down +the slope, turned two or three summersaults, and then stuck up defiantly +in a distant patch of snow, looking like a sign-post. While Franz went off +to recover his loved treasure we huddled together on a very little ledge +of rock, and sat there in a row like busts on a shelf—if the simile be not +considered anatomically inappropriate. But these delays had wasted much +time, and already success seemed doubtful. Little time could now be +devoted to consultation, and little good would have come of it; now that +we were on the rocks the only thing to do was to go straight on and see +what would happen. At the same time we had a dim consciousness that we +were considerably to the right of the best line of ascent. Our “general +idea”—to borrow a military phrase of which, by the way, it may be remarked +that the idea in question is usually confined to the general and is not +shared in by the troops—consisted in making for the left-hand side or +Montanvert aspect of the final peak. We set our teeth, whatever that may +mean, then fell to with a will and for some two hours went with scarcely a +check. And a rare two hours’ climb we had. The very thought of it makes +the pen travel swiftly over the paper, as the scene comes back in every +detail. How Burgener led the way without hesitation and almost without +mistake; how our second guide chattered unceasingly, caring nought for a +listener; how they both stuck to the rocks like limpets; how the big axe +got in everybody’s way; how the rope got caught on every projecting spur +of rock, jerking back the unwary, or when loose sweeping down showers of +small angular stones from the little platforms and ridges, thereby +engendering ill blood and contumely; how the silent porter climbed +stolidly after us, and in the plenitude of his taciturn good-humour poked +at us from below with his staff at inconvenient moments and in sensitive +places; how at one moment we were flat against the rock, all arms and +legs, like crushed spiders, and at another gathered into great loops like +a cheese maggot on the point of making a leap; how a volley of little +stones came whistling cheerily down from above, playfully peppering us all +round; how our spirits rose with our bodies till we became as excited as +children: of all these things it boots not to give any detailed +description. Those who can recollect similar occasions need but to be +reminded of them, and, to tell the truth, the minutiæ, though they are so +graven upon the mind that a clear impression could be struck off years +afterwards, are apt to prove somewhat tedious. Two facts I may note. One, +that the rocks were at first very much easier than was expected; another, +that we should have done better had we discarded the rope on this part of +the climb: the rocks were hardly a fit place for those who could not +dispense with its use. Ever and anon the guides’ spirits would rise to +that level which may be called the shouting point, and they would jödel +till they were black in the face, while the melodious roll of sound echoed +cheerily back from the distant cliffs of the Aiguille Moine. And so we +journeyed up. + +(M39) + +Meanwhile the weather had changed; black clouds had come rolling up and +were gathering ominously above us; it was evident that we had no chance of +reaching the summit that day, even if it were practicable, but still we +persevered desperately in the hope of seeing some possible route for a +future attack. Progress, however, on a rock peak is necessarily slow when +there are five on the rope, and we should probably have done more wisely +if we had divided into two parties. We kept well to the left to a point on +the face where a huge tower of rock stands four-square to all the winds of +heaven that blow; and above us, as a matter of fact, there seemed to be a +good many winds. This landmark, very conspicuous and characteristic of +these aiguilles, seemed to be close to the ridge, but on reaching it we +found that there was still a stiff passage intervening between us and the +point from which we could overlook the other side of the mountain. Now we +bore to the right and the climbing became more difficult. We made our way +straight up a very shallow gully and finally reached a point on the +western ridge overlooking the Montanvert, close to where this ridge merges +into the corresponding face of the peak. Here a halt was called, for two +reasons. In the first place a few flakes of snow were softly falling +around and the gathering clouds betokened more to follow. Secondly, so far +as we could judge through the mist, it was apparently impossible to ascend +any higher from the place we had reached. So we cast off the rope and +clambered separately to various points of vantage to survey the work that +lay before us. The summit of the peak, enveloped in thin cloud, appeared +to tower no great height above us, but we were too close under the cliff +to estimate its elevation very correctly. At the time we thought that if +we could only keep up the pace at which we had been going, an hour’s climb +would have sufficed to reach the top. We found, it may be remarked +parenthetically, that we were egregiously in error in this estimate some +years later. The shifting clouds made the rock face—that is, the small +extent of it that we could see at all—look much more difficult than in all +probability it actually was. Through the mists we made out, indistinctly, +a formidable-looking irregular crack in the rock face running very +straight up and rather to our left, which apparently constituted the only +possible route from our position to a higher level. But from where we +stood we could not have reached the lower end of this crack without a +ladder of about fifty feet in length, and the mist entirely prevented us +from judging whether we could reach it by a détour. The choice lay between +hunting for some such line or else in trying what seemed on the whole more +practicable, viz. working round by the north-east face again, so as to +search for a more easy line of ascent. But the latter alternative would +have involved of necessity a considerable descent. While we debated what +course to take the mists swept up thicker and thicker from below, and in a +moment the peak above us was concealed and all the view cut off. A +piercingly cold wind began to rise and a sharp storm of hail and sleet +descended. Hints were dropped about the difficulty of descending rocks +glazed over with ice with a proper amount of deliberation. It was +obviously impossible to go up and might soon become very difficult to go +down. The question was not actually put, but, in conformity with what was +evidently the general sense of the meeting, we somewhat reluctantly made +up our minds to return. A dwarf stone man was constructed, the rope +readjusted, and half an hour’s descent put us out of the mist and snow. We +stopped again and stared upwards blankly at the leve line of mist hanging +heavily against the peak. Burgener now came forward with a definite +resolution and proposed that we should stay where we were for the night +and try again the next day. This was referred to a sub-committee, who +reported against the suggestion on the ground that the stock of provisions +left consisted of a tablespoonful of wine, four rolls, and a small piece +of cheese which had strayed from the enveloping paper in the porter’s +pocket and as a consequence smelt of tobacco and was covered with hairs +and fluff. These articles of diet were spread on a rock and we mentally +calculated the exact proportion that would fall to each man’s share if we +attempted, as proposed, to subsist on them for a day and a half. But +little deliberation was required. We decided at once to return. The porter +gathered the fragments lovingly together and replaced them with other +curious articles in his side pocket. By 8.30 P.M. we were back at +Chamouni, having been out a little under twenty hours. + +(M40) + +A day or two later we made up our minds to start once more. Great +preparations were made for an early departure, the idea that we should +find it distasteful to start at the hour at which a London ball begins +being scouted, as it usually is over-night. We impressed on an intelligent +“boots” with great earnestness the absolute necessity of waking us +precisely at midnight, and then went to our repose, feeling about as much +inclined for sleep as a child does during the afternoon siesta intended to +prepare it for the glories of a pantomime. The “boots” did not fail; in +fact he was extra-punctual, as our departure was the signal for his +retiring. At midnight the party assembled in the little courtyard in front +of the hotel, but a dismal sight met our gaze. Under the influence of a +warm sou’-wester, thick black clouds had filled the valley, and a gentle +drizzle reminded us of the balmy climate of our own metropolis in +November. Our Alpine tour for the season was nearly at an end, and we +gazed despondently around. Ultimately one practical person suggested that +if we did not go to the mountain we might as well go to bed, and the +practical person endorsed his suggestion by walking off. A scurvy +practical joke did the clerk of the weather play on us that night. In the +morning the bright sunbeams came streaming in through the window, the sky +was cloudless and the outline of every peak was sharply defined in the +clear air. A more perfect morning for the expedition could hardly have +been chosen. Some ill-timed remarks at breakfast referring pointedly to +people who talk a good deal over-night about early starts, and the deep +concern of the “boots” at our presumed slothfulness, goaded us to +desperation. We determined to start again and to have one more try the +next day whatever the weather might prove to be. Once more we found +ourselves in the small hours of the morning on the path leading to Les +Ponts. Had it not been for the previous day’s lesson we should probably +have turned back from this point, for the whole of the mountain opposite +was concealed in thick drifting mist. The guides flatly refused to go on +as matters stood. We were determined on our side not to give it up, and so +a compromise was effected. It was agreed to wait for an hour or two and +see if matters mended. So we stretched ourselves out on a damp sloping +rock, prepared to resume our journey at the slightest indication of a +change for the better. Rest at such a time even under these hard, not to +say stony, conditions is seductive, and, as we lay half dozing, strange +heretical thoughts came crowding into the mind. Why toil up this mountain +when one can rest in luxury on these knobby rocks? Why labour over the +shifting moraine, the deceitful glacier, the slippery rock? What is the +good of it all? Can it be vanity or——“Vorwärts!” The dream vanished as the +cheery cry broke out from the guide engaged on outpost duty, and as we +rose and stretched ourselves the whole aspect of affairs seemed changed. A +distinct break in the clouds at the head of the Mer de Glace gave promise +of better things in store, and we felt almost guilty of having wasted an +hour or more at our halt. The break became larger and larger, and before +long the great cloud banks resolved into one huge streamer flying from the +summit of the peak. I fancy that, at any rate in the early stages of +mountaineering, many good chances are thrown away on such days, for guides +are as a rule somewhat prone to despondency in the early morning hours. +Once started, however, they became wondrously keen, complained of our +delay, and even asserted with some effrontery that they had predicted fine +weather all the time, and this without a blush; still some one rather +neatly defined blushing as a suffusion least seldom seen in those who have +the most occasion for it, and guides share with politicians a certain +power of manipulating their opinions to suit the exigencies of the moment. +The traces of our former attempt assisted us materially on the glacier. +Our plan of attack consisted in getting on the rocks at our former point, +but working on this occasion much more directly up the face. Burgener +conceived that by following this line of assault we should be able to +ascend, by means of a gully which existed only in his own imagination, to +a more practicable part of the peak. Between the two summits of the +Aiguille du Dru may be seen, at any rate in photographs, a +tempting-looking streak of snow: it seemed possible, if we could once +reach the lower point of this streak, to follow its line upwards. The +lower peak of the Dru is well rounded on its eastern face, and the rocks +appear more broken than in other parts of the mountain. + +(M41) + +If we could but once reach the cleft between the peaks there seemed every +chance of our being able to reach the lower summit. At the outset progress +was fast. We followed our former line till we were in sight of the rock +tower and then at once bore off to the right. The climbing was rather more +difficult, at least it seemed so to us in those days, than on the other +part of the mountain with which we had previously made acquaintance. A +series of short flat gullies had to be climbed, but there were exceedingly +few inequalities to help us. The rope was of little or no use and might +perhaps have been laid aside with advantage. We soon found that we had +reached a higher point than at our previous attempt, and as the leader +constantly returned favourable reports our spirits rose; so elated in fact +did we become that the exact formalities to be observed on reaching the +top were seriously discussed whenever the occasion offered for +conversation, which was not very often. Old Franz chattered away to +himself, as was his wont when matters went well, and on looking back on +one occasion I perceived the strange phenomenon of a smile illuminating +the porter’s features. Howbeit, this worthy spake no words of +satisfaction, but pulled ever at his empty pipe. By dint of wriggling over +a smooth sloping stone slab we had got into a steep rock gully which +promised to lead us to a good height. Burgener, assisted by much pushing +and prodding from below and aided on his own part by much snorting and +some strong language, had managed to climb on to a great overhanging +boulder that cut off the view from the rest of the party below. As he +disappeared from sight we watched the paying out of the rope with as much +anxiety as a fisherman eyes his vanishing line when the salmon runs. +Presently the rope ceased to move and we waited for a few moments in +suspense. We felt that the critical moment of the expedition had arrived, +and the fact that our own view was exceedingly limited made us all the +more anxious to hear the verdict. “How does it look?” we called out. The +answer came back in patois, a bad sign in such emergencies. For a minute +or two an animated conversation was kept up; then we decided to take +another opinion and accordingly hoisted up our second guide. The chatter +was redoubled. “What does it look like?” we shouted again. “Not possible +from where we are,” was the melancholy answer, and in a tone that crashed +at once all our previous elation. I could not find words at the moment to +express my disappointment: but the porter could and gallantly he came to +the rescue. He opened his mouth for the first time and spoke, and he said +very loud indeed that it was “verdammt.” Precisely: that is just what it +was. Having made this short speech, the porter allowed the smile to fade +away from his features, shook out some imaginary ashes and proceeded to +light some visionary tobacco, sucking at a lighted match through the +medium of an empty pipe. It seemed hard to believe at first that we were +to be baulked when so near the summit, and it was not till the guides had +tried again and again to storm the almost vertical wall of smooth rock and +had shown the utter impossibility of turning it either right or left, that +we felt we were really beaten. One more forlorn chance remained: we might +try the west face of the mountain from the spot we had reached at our +first attempt, when the weather had prevented us from making any further +progress. Had there been more time at our disposal we should have done +better to try another line of ascent more to our right, that is, nearer to +the col, and it might be possible to reach the cleft between the two +summits by this means. As for the snow streak which looked so tempting at +a distance, it is a delusion and a snare, if the latter term be applicable +to a place which appears to be much more difficult to get into than it +probably would be to get out of. We had already pretty fully realised that +the mountain was more difficult to ascend than we had ever contemplated, +and it seemed advisable at the moment to make for some definite point +which at any rate we felt sure of reaching and to study the peak in detail +to the best of our ability; so we made towards our cairn, though with +little hope of gaining much knowledge thereby. + +(M42) + +Without much difficulty, but not without some little danger from falling +stones (though on the whole, the mountain is remarkably free from these +annoyances, there being as a matter of fact but few loose stones to fall), +we reached our former point and were able to judge distinctly of how much +higher we had reached at our second attempt. We saw also that upward +progress from the point on which we stood would not be possible, but it +must be remembered that we were able only to see a small strip of the +mountain lying directly above. Every crag that was not absolutely vertical +appeared to overhang, and the few small cracks that might have afforded +hand and foot hold led nowhere in particular. Altogether the view was +depressing although limited. There was no time to hunt about for other +routes, or we should certainly have done so, for we felt that though +beaten our discomfiture only arose from the fact that we had chosen a +wrong line of ascent. Possibly within a few yards of us lay a feasible +route, but we knew not on which side it might be. Here it occurred to the +porter for the first time that his pipe was empty and had been so all day: +he thereupon made his second remark, which consisted in an audible request +for something to put in it. We had dragged up with us (as a matter of fact +the porter had carried it the whole time) some 200 feet of rope, thinking +it might help us in the descent, but the part of the mountain on which we +were presents no more difficulties in this respect than does Avernus. + +(M43) + +Arrived on the snow slope opposite the rock face on which we had been +climbing during the day, we stopped, extended the telescope, and tried to +make out our exact line, and endeavoured also to discover what had been +our error; no easy task, as any persons of experience will admit. At any +time the appearance of this peak is deceptive, and the outline no more +guides you to a knowledge of the natural details than does the outline of +a fashionable lady’s dress. But as we looked the mountain seemed flattened +out by reason of a blue evening mist which obscured all the +irregularities. So we turned and resumed our journey down, running hard +across the Mer de Glace, for the shades of night drew on apace, and +reached Chamouni at 8.30 in the evening, leaving the guides at the +Montanvert with half a bottle of thin red wine between three of them. We +were overtaken by Edouard Cupelin, one of the best of the Chamouni guides, +at any rate on rock mountains, on our way down, and he gave us a rather +sensational account of his own adventures on the peak. In justice to him +it should be mentioned that he was almost the only Chamouni guide who +seemed to think the ascent possible, and in his opinion the general line +that we had adopted was the correct one. Our second expedition thus from +first to last occupied about 20½ hours, but the halts were not nearly so +numerous as on the first occasion. The experience of our two days’ +climbing led us to the conclusion that Cupelin was right. From the +peculiar character of the rocks and the fact that our climbing lay chiefly +along short flat gullies we were unable, as already remarked, to get a +very clear idea of any part of the mountain except that on which we were +actually engaged, and we were led to the opinion that the only plan to +find a possible route would consist in trying in succession from below the +different parts of the southern face. The final peak, which from this side +shoots up clearly defined from the great mass of the mountain, seemed to +us tolerably easy of ascent provided one could reach the base. A sort of +depression extends three parts of the way round, and the edge of this +shallow moat appeared to be defended by an inaccessible belt of vertical +rock. The actual rocks were wholly unlike any met with elsewhere in our +experience. Great vertical slabs were fitted together with an accuracy +which was beautiful in its perfection, but irritating beyond conception to +the climber. Progress upwards, when above the level of the col, +necessitated a series of fatiguing gymnastics like swimming uphill, but +the rocks where they were possible proved invariably firm and good. On +both occasions we were stopped by sheer difficulty and probably saw the +mountain at its very best. The snow on the rocks, which proved such a +formidable difficulty to Mr. Pendlebury’s party, had almost entirely +disappeared before our assault. The rocks were warm and the weather on the +second day was perfect. + +(M44) + +Such is the history of our first two attempts to climb this mountain. They +served but to whet our appetite for success, but it was not till years +after that we were fortunate enough to meet with that success. + + + + + + CHAPTER IV. + + + A DAY ACROSS COUNTRY + + + The art of meteorological vaticination—The climate we leave our + homes for—Observations in the valley—The diligence arrives and + shoots its load—Types of travellers—The Alpine habitué—The elderly + spinster on tour—A stern Briton—A family party—We seek fresh + snow-fields—The Bietschhorn—A sepulchral bivouac—On early starts + and their curious effects on the temperament—A choice of routes—A + deceptive ice gully—The avalanches on the Bietschhorn—We work up + to a dramatic situation—The united party nearly fall out—A limited + panorama—A race for home—Caught out—A short cut—Driven to + extremities—The water jump—An aged person comes to the rescue—A + classical banquet at Ried—The old curé and his hospitality—A + wasted life? + + +The summer season of 1878 was one of the worst on record. Meteorologists, +by a species of climatic paradox, might have had a fine time of it; +mountaineers had a most wet and disagreeable time of it. The weather +prophets easily established a reputation for infallibility—according to +the accepted modern standard of vaticination—by predicting invariably evil +things. They were thus right five times out of six, which will readily be +acknowledged as very creditable in persons who were uninspired, save by a +desire to exalt themselves in the eyes of their fellow tourists. But, as +in the case of that singularly hopeful person Tantalus, the torture was +rendered more artistic and aggravating by sporadic promise of better +things. One day the rock aiguilles were powdered over and white-speckled +with snow. The climber looked up longingly at the heights above, but +visions of numbing cold and frost-bitten fingers caused him to thrust the +latter members into his pockets and turn away with a sigh, to put it +mildly, and avert his gaze from the chilling spectacle. Then would he +follow his daily practice—his thrice-a-daily practice in all +probability—of overeating himself. Perhaps, while still engaged at _table +d’hôte_ in consuming, at any rate in masticating, the multiform dish +generically named “chevreuil,” the glow of a rosy sunset, and the hope of +brighter things in store for the morrow, would attract him to the window. + +(M45) + +The next day would produce scorching heat, a clear sky, a rising +barometer, and a revival of spirits; diet, as the physicians say, as +before. The powdered snow would disappear off the ledges and, melting, +distribute itself more uniformly over the rocks, which as a result +presented a shining appearance, as the morning face of a schoolboy or the +Sunday face of a general servant. At night a clear sky and a sharp frost +in the high regions, and the next day the mountain would be more +impossible than ever. Still, recognising that another few hours of +grateful sunshine would cause the thin film of ice glazing the rocks to +melt and evaporate, the energetic climber (and we were very energetic that +year) would summon his guides and all his resolution, pack up his traps, +and start for a bivouac up aloft, to return, in all probability, at the +end of twenty-four hours, in a downfall of rain and in the condition of +steamy moisture so tersely described by Mr. Mantalini. Such, during July +1878, was our lot day after day in the glorious Alpine climate. We paced +up and down, with the regularity of sentries, between our camp on the +Aiguille du Dru and Couttet’s hotel at Chamouni. Occasionally we ascended +some distance up the Glacier de la Charpoua and took observations. Once or +twice we proceeded far enough on the rocks of the Aiguille du Dru to prove +the impossibility of ascending them to any great height. Still we were +loth to depart and run the risk of losing a favourable opportunity of +assaulting the mountain with any chance of success. It fell out thus that +we had good opportunities of observing our fellow creatures and the +various types of travellers who, notwithstanding the weather, still +crowded into Chamouni; for it was only on rock peaks such as the Aiguille +du Dru, or difficult mountains like the Aiguille Verte, that climbing was +impossible. This condition of things did not affect to any very +appreciable extent the perambulating peasants who constitute the vast +majority of the body known as guides in Chamouni. These worthies merely +loafed a little more than they were wont to do, if that be possible. +Perhaps the gathering invariably to be found, during twenty hours out of +the twenty-four, at the cross roads near Tairraz’s shop was still more +numerously attended, and there was some slight increase in the number of +sunburnt individuals who found intellectual exercise sufficient to +apologise for their existence in wearing their hands in their pockets, +smoking indifferent tobacco, expectorating indiscriminately, and uttering +statements devoid of sense or point to anybody who cared to listen. The +weather had no effect on them; whether wet or dry, cold or warm, they +still occupied themselves from June to September in the same manner. Once +in the early morning, and once again about five o’clock in the evening, +were they momentarily galvanised out of their listlessness by the arriving +and departing diligences. + +(M46) + +On the arrival of the caravan the contingent was usually reinforced by +some of our own countrymen. The proper attitude for the English visitor at +Chamouni to assume, when watching the evening incursion of tourists, +consisted in leaning against the wall on the south side of the street, and +so to pose himself as to indicate independence of the proceedings and to +wear an expression of indifference tinged with a suggestion of cynical +humour. This was usually accomplished by wearing the hands in the pockets, +tilting the hat a little over the eyes, crossing the legs, and laughing +unduly at the remarks of companions, whether audible or not. Some few +considered that smoking a wooden pipe assisted the realisation of the +effect intended: others apparently held that a heavy object held in the +mouth interfered with the expression. I have observed that these same +onlookers were bitterly indignant at the ordeal they had to pass through +on returning to their native shores viâ Folkestone, when clambering +wearily with leaden eyes and sage-green complexions up the pier steps. Yet +the diligence travellers, begrimed with dust, stung of horse flies, +cramped, choked, and so jolted that they recognised more bony prominences +than previous anatomical knowledge had ever led them to expect they +possessed, were none the less objects of pity. Still human nature is +always worthy of study, and those who arrived, together with those who +went to see them arrive, were equally interesting under the depressing +climatic influences which so often forbade us to take our pleasure +elsewhere. + +(M47) + +It was curious to note how, day after day, the diligence on its arrival +released from the cramped thraldom of its uncomfortable seats almost +exactly the same load. As the great lumbering yellow vehicle came within +sight, one or two familiar faces would be seen craning out to catch the +first sight of an old guide or mountain friend. These _habitués_ as a rule +secured for themselves the corner seats. We knew exactly what their +luggage would be. A bundle of axes like Roman “fasces” would be handed out +first, with perhaps a little unnecessary ostentation, followed by a coil +of rope which might have been packed up in the portmanteau, but usually +was not; then a knapsack, with marks on the back like a map of the +continent of America if the owner was an old hand, and a spotless minute +check if he were only trying to look like one. The owners of the knapsacks +would be clad in suits that once were dittos, flannel shirts and the +familiar British wide-awake, the new aspirants for mountaineering fame +decorating their head gear with snow spectacles purchased in Geneva. Very +business-like would they show themselves in collecting their luggage +before anybody else; then, with a knowing look at the mountains, they +would make their way to Couttet’s. Next, perhaps, would follow a party of +some two or three spinsters travelling alone and as uncertain about their +destination as they were of their age. To attract such, some of the hotel +proprietors, more astute than their fellows, despatched to the scene of +action porters of cultivated manners and obsequious demeanour, who seldom +failed, by proving themselves to be “such nice polite men, my dear,” to +ensnare the victims. Burdened with the numerous parcels and odd little +bags this class of traveller greatly affects, the nicely mannered porter +would lead the way to the hotel or pension, probably bestowing, as he +passed, a wink on some friend among the guides, who recognised at once the +type of tourist that would inevitably visit the Montanvert, probably the +Chapeau and possibly the Flégère, and recognising too the type in whom +judicious compliments were not likely to be invested without satisfactory +results. Such people invariably enquired if they could not be taken _en +pension_. Somewhat frugal as regards diet, especially breakfast, but with +astounding capacities for swallowing _table d’hôte_ dinners or such +romance as the guides might be pleased to invent on the subject of their +own prowess and exploits. Charming old ladies these often were, as pleased +with the novelty of everything they saw around them as a gutter child in a +country meadow. Their nature changes marvellously in the Alps. Scarcely +should we recognise in the small wiry traveller in the mountains the same +individual whom we might meet in town—say in the neighbourhood of +Bloomsbury. I have noticed such a one not a hundred miles from there whose +energy for sight-seeing when in the Alps surpassed all belief. Yet here +she seemed but a little, wrinkled, bent-in-the-back old woman, flat of +foot, reckless at crossings, finding difficulty on Sunday mornings in +fishing a copper out of her reticule for the crossing sweeper, by reason +of the undue length of the finger-tips to her one-buttoned black kid +gloves, and accompanied on week days, perhaps for the sake of contrast, by +a sprightly little black and tan dog of so arrogant a disposition that it +declined to use in walking all the legs which Providence had furnished it. +Next, perhaps, the British paterfamilias, who might or might not be a +clergyman, most intractable of tourists; ever prone to combine instruction +with amusement for the benefit of his bored family, slightly relaxing on +week days, but rigid and austere on Sundays beyond conception. And then +the foreign sub-Alpine walker or “intrépide,” clad in special garments of +local make and highly vaunted efficiency, garrulous, smoky, voracious, a +trifle greasy, and dealing habitually in ecstatic hendecasyllables +expressive of admiration of everything he saw. Next the family party, +possibly with a courier, with whom the younger members were, as a rule, +unduly familiar: the boys wearing tailed shooting coats, consorting but +ill with Eton turn-down collars, groaning under the burden of green baize +bags containing assorted guide books, strange receptacles for the +umbrellas of the party, and with leathern wallets slung around their +shoulders, stuffed with the useless articles boys cherish and love to +carry with them; the girls awkwardly conscious and feeling ill at ease by +reason of the practical dresses, boots, and head gear devised for them at +home, looking tenderly after a collection of weakly sticks tipped with +chamois horns and decorated with a spirally arranged list of localities; +the whole party in an excessively bad temper, which the boys exhibited by +pummelling and thumping when “pa” was not looking and the girls by little +sniffs, head tossings, and pointed remarks at each other that they had no +idea what guys they looked. It will be observed that the constant bad +weather induced a cynical condition of mind. + +(M48) + +We made up our minds, notwithstanding the attractions of this varied +company, to quit them for a while, to seek fresh snow-fields and glaciers +new, and to leave the rocks of the Aiguille du Dru for a time unmolested. +At the suggestion of Jaun we betook ourselves to the Oberland for a +contemplated ascent of the Bietschhorn by a new route. Under a tropical +sun we made our way by the interminable zigzags through the Trient valley +down to Vernayaz, where we met again, like the witches in “Macbeth,” in +thunder and in rain. Our project was to ascend the Bietschhorn from the +Visp side and descend it by the usual route to Ried. This form of novelty +had become so common in mountaineering that a new word had been coined +expressly to describe such expeditions, and the climber, if he succeeded +in his endeavour, was said to have “colled” the peak. The phrase, however, +was only admissible on the first occasion, and it was subsequently +described by any who followed, in more prosaic terms, as going up one side +and down the other. + +(M49) + +We did not experience any unusual difficulty in leaving Visp tolerably +early in the morning. The chorus of frogs, who were in remarkably fine +voice that night in the neighbouring swamps, kept us awake, and the proper +musical contrast was provided by the alto humming of some hungry +mosquitoes. Our plan of assault was to camp somewhere at the head of the +Baltschieder Thal, which is a dreary stony valley with only a few huts +that would scarcely be considered habitable even by a London +slum-landlord. The living inhabitants appeared to consist of three unkempt +children, two pigs, one imbecile old man, and a dog with a fortuitous +family. On the whole, therefore, we came to the conclusion that nature +would probably provide better accommodation than the local architectural +art, and a short search revealed a most luxurious bivouac, close to the +left moraine of the Baltschieder Glacier, under the shelter of the +Fäschhorn and a little above the level of the ice fall. A huge, flat slab +of rock formed the roof of a wedge-shaped cavity capable of holding at +least six persons, if disposed in a horizontal position. The space between +the floor and the roof, it is true, was not much more than three feet; but +the chamber, though well sheltered, demanded no ventilating tubes to +ensure a proper supply of fresh air. Having a little spare time and being +luxuriously inclined, we decided to sleep on spring beds. First we swept +the stone floor, then covered it with a thick layer of dry rhododendron +branches, over which were laid large sods of dried peat grass, and the +beds were complete. The pointed ends of the twigs showed rather a tendency +to penetrate through the grassy covering during the night, but otherwise +the mattresses were all that could be desired. About two in the morning we +got up—that is, we would have got up had it not been physically impossible +to do so by reason of the lowness of the roof. A more correct expression +would be perhaps to say that we turned out, rolling from under the shelter +of the slab one after another. By the dim light of an ineffective candle, +poked into the neck of a broken bottle, we found it no easy matter to +collect all the articles which the guides had of course unpacked and +stowed away as if they were going to stay a week; indeed, a certain bottle +of seltzer water will probably still be found—at any rate the bottle +will—by anyone who seeks repose in the same quarters. + +(M50) + +We started in the usual frame of mind—that is to say, everybody was +exceedingly facetious for about three minutes. In about ten minutes one of +the party, who would slake his thirst unduly at a crystal spring near the +bivouac the previous evening, found that his boot lace was untied; +circumstances which do not seem associated at first sight, but are not, +nevertheless, infrequently observed. So again have I often remarked that a +good dinner overnight develops in an astonishing manner admiration for +distant views when ascending on the subsequent day. Within a quarter of an +hour the amateurs of the party ceased to indulge in conversation, their +remarks dying away into a species of pained silence similar to that which +is induced in youthful voluptuaries by the premature smoking of clay +pipes. The guides, however, seldom if ever desisted from dialogue, and +never for the purpose of listening to each other’s remarks. Still, the +respiratory process is governed by the same conditions in the case of +guides as in other mortals, and though they would scorn to stoop to the +boot-lace subterfuge, and feel that a sudden admiration for scenery would +deceive no one, they yet found it necessary before long to distribute +their burdens more equally; a process achieved by halting, untying several +strings, taking out several parcels and replacing them in the same +positions. By these various methods we acquired what athletes call “second +wind” and stepped out more strongly. We crossed a moraine of the usual +inconsistency—however, the subject of loose moraines has been, I fancy, +touched upon by other writers. The Baltschieder Glacier sweeps at a right +angle round a mountain christened, not very originally, the Breithorn. +This particular member of that somewhat numerous family blocks up the head +of the Baltschieder Thal. We skirted the north base of the Breithorn, +passing between it and the Jägihorn, and arriving at the top of a steep +little slope came in full view of the eastern slopes of our objective +peak. At this point Maurer gave vent to a dismal wail of anguish as it +suddenly occurred to him that he had left the bottle of seltzer water down +below. With some difficulty did we persuade him that it was not necessary +to return for it, although the idea of repose was not wholly distasteful, +but we felt that we had probably all our work cut out for us in one sense, +and that the days were none too long for such an expedition as the one we +had in hand. Two distinct lines of attack appeared to offer themselves. +One route, more to our right, led upwards by a gentle curved ridge, +chiefly of snow, connecting the Baltschieder Joch with the northern arête +of the mountain. In 1866 Messrs. D. W. Freshfield and C. C. Tucker, as we +learnt subsequently, attained a high point by this way and were only +prevented from accomplishing the actual ascent by bad weather, though they +did enough to prove the practicability of the route. However, this way, +which appeared the easier of the two, was evidently the longer from our +position. The other route had the advantage of lying straight in front of +us. Its attraction consisted of a broad long gully of snow enclosed +between two ridges of rock. By the dim morning light the snow appeared +easy enough and was evidently in suitable condition: howbeit, long snow +couloirs, at the summit of which rocks overhang, are not usually to be +recommended when the mountain itself is composed of friable material. Now +it would be difficult to find in the whole of the Alps a mountain more +disposed to cast stones at its assailants than the Bietschhorn, a fact of +which we were fully aware. Every ascent of this disintegrating peak so +rearranges the rocks that the next comers would not be wholly without +justification if they pleaded that the details of their ascent were to a +great extent new. Still, mountaineers up to the present have not been +quite reduced to such a far-fetched claim to novelty, although in these +latter days they have at times come perilously near it. Judging by the +direction of the strata, we felt certain that the rock ridges must be +practicable, and the problem in mountaineering set before us consisted in +finding out how we might best ascend without subjecting ourselves to the +inconveniences experienced by some of the early martyrs. + +(M51) + +An early breakfast put fresh strength into us. It is a common mistake of +mountaineers not to breakfast early enough and not to breakfast often +enough. If it be desired to achieve a long expedition when there is not +likely to be too much spare time, the wise man will eat something at least +every two hours up to about 10 o’clock in the morning, supposing, for +instance, he started about 2 A.M. It is astonishing to notice how the full +man gains upon the empty one on fatiguing snow slopes. We strode rapidly +across the basin of snow called the Jägifirn and arrived at the foot of +the gully. But now we could see that our suspicions were more than +verified: ugly-looking marks in the snow above indicated falling stones, +and the snow itself was obviously in a condition prone to avalanches. This +danger must always be present in couloirs to a greater or less extent in +such seasons as the one we were experiencing. There had been sufficient +power of sun to convert the contents of the gully into what would have +been, in fine weather, a glistening ice slope. But much fresh snow had +fallen recently. It but rarely can happen, when snow has fallen late in +the season or during the hot months, that the new and the old layers can +become properly amalgamated. If, therefore, there is too great a thickness +of fresh snow to allow of steps being cut through this into the ice +beneath, such couloirs are unsafe. The mark of a single avalanche due to +the sliding off of the fresh snow on the ice beneath—a mark easily enough +recognised—would deter any save an unwise person or a novice from +attempting such a line of ascent. The marvellous hereditary instinct so +often attributed to guides in judging of this condition really reduces +itself to a matter of very simple observation and attention, and one +within the reach of anybody. But travellers in the Alps too often appear +to treat their reasoning faculties like they do their tall hats, and leave +them at home. The question then was, Were the rocks right or left of this +snow gully practicable? We all agreed that they were, and proceeded at +once to test the accuracy of our opinion. + +(M52) + +We crossed the bergschrund—that godsend to writers on mountaineering in +search of material to act as padding—and without dwelling on its insecure +bridge longer than we need now dwell on the subject made swiftly for some +rocks on the left. Scarcely had we gained them when a rush of snow and +ice, of no great dimensions, but still large enough to be formidable, +obliterated all the tracks we had just made. This settled the point at +once, and we felt that by the rocks alone would it be proper to force the +ascent. While on the ridge we were safe enough, and had the advantage as +we clambered up of a most commanding position from whence we could view +the frequent avalanches that swept by. The rain of the previous night, +though it had only lasted for an hour or two, had evidently had a great +effect on the state of the snow, and the avalanches seemed to pour down +almost incessantly: probably some forty or fifty swept by us while we +climbed by the side of the gully, and our situation gave rise to that +feeling of somewhat pained security which is experienced when standing on +a railway platform as an express train dashes by; we certainly felt that +some of the downfalls would have reduced our party to a pulp quite as +easily and with as much unconcern as the train itself. The guides, who do +not perhaps tax their memories very severely for a parallel on such an +occasion, asserted, as they generally do, that they had never seen +anything like it in the whole course of their lives. They then fell to +whistling, laughed very gaily, and borrowed tobacco from each other. + +(M53) + +Gradually our difficulties became more pronounced, and conversation on +indifferent topics was discarded, the remarks being confined to brief +exclamations such as “Keep it tight!” “Don’t touch that one!” “Hold on +now!” “You’re treading on my fingers!” “The point of your axe is sticking +into my stomach!” and similar ejaculations. Once in a way we ascended for +a few feet by the snow, though never quite losing touch of the rocks, and +sank waist deep in the soft compound filling up the gully. Then we went +back to the rotten rocks for a brief spell, well content to be more out of +the reach of chance fragments of ice falling down the shoot. It is +wonderful to note how quickly time passes in an exciting climb of this +nature; but our progress was actually rather rapid, so fast indeed that we +did not fully realise at one period that we were getting into difficulties +and that we had without doubt strayed, Christian-like, from the narrow +path which was evidently the right one. Throughout the day we were +conscious that the climb was too long to be completed if we made any +serious mistake involving the retracing of steps. Quite suddenly, our +situation became critical: a hurried glance up and down along the line +revealed the fact that each member of the party had to do all he knew to +preserve his position. The attitudes were ungainly enough to suggest +instantaneous photographs at an ill-selected movement of four individuals +dancing a “can-can.” Maurer was engaged apparently in an extremely close +and minute inspection of the toe of his right boot. Another member of the +party was giving a practical illustration of the fact that he could, by +extreme extension of his arms, stretch more than his own height, while a +third was endeavouring to find out why the power of co-ordinating his +muscular movements was suddenly lost to him, and why he could not persuade +his left leg to join his right. For a few moments Jaun, who was leading, +hung on by his finger-tips and the issue of the expedition hung in the +balance. But our leader, by dint of some complicated sprawls, transferred +himself over a passage of rock on which we had no earthly reason to be, +and assisted the rest of the party to regain a more promising line of +ascent. For those few minutes the situation was dramatic enough, and the +thought crossed my mind that the curtain might not improbably descend on +it; a solution of the difficulty which commends itself to the playwright +when he has involved his _dramatis personæ_ in difficulties, but which is +not without its objections to the climber. On the whole the rocks on this +face of the mountain are much more difficult than on the other, and, +writing now after the lapse of some years, I am disposed to think that +these are perhaps the most difficult crags of any that I have ever met +with to climb properly, that is with a minimum of risk to one’s self and +to one’s companions; as a good proof of this I may say that the ascent +would probably have appeared fairly easy to a novice and that it required +some little Alpine experience to realise their real difficulty and their +treacherous nature. There was scarcely time to test adequately all hand +and foothold, and examination of rocks by what surgeons term palpation is +a _sine quâ non_ in rock climbing. Undoubtedly the mountain was not in the +best possible order. We may possibly have rearranged the rocks in our line +of ascent in a more convenient manner for those who follow. Certainly we +may fairly say that in our actual line of ascent we left no stone unturned +to ensure success. + +(M54) + +Close below the ridge—within perhaps ten feet of it, for if I remember +aright our leader had actually reached the crest—came the climax to what +was perhaps rather a perilous climb. The first and second on the rope had +met in their upward passage a huge cube of rock whose security they had +carefully tested, and to surmount which it was necessary to stretch to the +fullest extent in order to gain a respectable hold for the hands. We were +all four in a direct line one below the other, and the two last on the +rope were placed perforce directly beneath the treacherous crag. By an +extension movement which conveyed some notion of the sensation experienced +by those on the rack, I had reached a handhold pronounced to be of a +passable nature by those above. By this manœuvre I succeeded in getting my +feet exactly to a place on which the others, who were much heavier than I, +had stood in security; without rhyme or reason the block of stone, which +was about the size of a grand pianoforte, suddenly broke away from under +me; a huge gap seemed cloven out in the mountain side, and Maurer, below, +had only just time to spring aside, enveloped in a cloud of dust, and to +throw himself flat against the rock, while the rope was strained to the +utmost. Fortunately the handhold above was sound and I was able to hold on +with feet dangling in the air, searching in vain for some projection on +which to rest. Those above were too insecure to give any efficient help, +and in fact possibly viewed my struggles, inasmuch as they were not fully +aware at first of what had happened, with as much equanimity as a person +inside a boat contemplates the gymnastic performances of a bather trying +to climb over the edge. As the cloud of dust cleared off, however, and +Maurer’s face gradually beamed through it like the sun in a fog, for the +excitement had made him the colour of a cornet player giving vent to a +high note, they began to realise that something abnormal had happened, +while the distant thundering reverberations of the falling mass assured +them that it was no ordinary slip. Meanwhile Maurer planted his axe so as +to give me some foothold, and with a push from below and a pull from +above, fortunately simultaneous, I succeeded in planting my feet where my +hands were, and subsequently undoubling found that we were within a few +feet of the ridge, that the panorama beyond was undoubtedly magnificent, +but was thrown out in strong relief by deep blue-black thunder-clouds +advancing towards us. + +Jaun now removed his empty pipe from his mouth and replaced it by a +lucifer match, which, either as an aid to reflection or possibly for +medicinal purposes, he chewed as he contemplated the ridge. A miserably +cold wind with a remarkable knack of detecting all the rents in our +raiment whistled around; above, the summit of the mountain was enveloped +in driving thick mist and cloud. Still the final ridge looked fairly easy, +and indeed proved to be so. The snow was deep and soft, and the stones +below were so arranged as to remind us forcibly of a newly mended road in +our native country; big and little, all seemed loose, and all arranged +with their sharpest points and edges uppermost. The ridge is moderately +broad, and we were able to flounder along with fair rapidity. Spurred on +by the unpromising look of the weather and stimulated by the cold wind, +which rendered any halts so unpleasant as to be out of the question, we +set to work in earnest and found ourselves at the base of the final little +snow and rock cone earlier than the length of the ridge had led us to +expect. As we stepped on to the summit we experienced the curious +sensation usually arising when climbing through clouds, that the mountain +itself was sinking away rapidly from under our feet. The panorama was +wholly composed of a foreground consisting of mist, and presented +therefore comparatively few attractions. + +(M55) + +It was already so late in the afternoon that we could not have afforded to +stay in any case, and, as we felt that serious difficulties might possibly +be encountered in descending, we set off at once, visions of a warm +welcome and a hot bath at Ried rising before our minds. The idea of +descending by way of the Baltschieder Joch was negatived without a +division. The northern ridge of the Bietschhorn is a counterpart of the +one by which we had ascended, with the solitary advantage in our case that +we had to go down it and not up. The snow slopes leading down to the Nest +Glacier were much broader, and we were strongly tempted more than once to +quit the ridge for this western face of the mountain. Ultimately, +persuaded that the condition of the snow justified us in so doing, we +struck straight down on to the Nest Glacier, skirted round the ridge of +rocks dividing the Nest Glacier from the Birch Glacier, and catching sight +of a little green patch some way below, threw off the rope and rushed +precipitately down to it. Misguided by a few gleams of sunshine breaking +out between the driving clouds, we conceived the idea of repose and +thought that we might as well be aired and dried. Below, the hotel at Ried +was in full view, and it seemed but an hour or two from us: but our +troubles were not yet over. The five minutes’ halt on such occasions not +uncommonly expand into five-and-fifty, and we rather deliberately averted +our gaze from the western view of the valley, up which the thunder-clouds +were advancing steadily in close formation. Eventually we decided to move +on, in order to avoid getting once more wet through. Vain hope: rapid +though our descent was to the level of the forest it was not rapid enough. +We ran furiously down the rough slopes, but, as the storm advanced and we +perceived that we should be caught, the agitation of our minds gradually +equalled the agitation of our bodies. We seemed to get no nearer Ried, +while the darkness increased rapidly around us. Knowing the proclivities +of guides on such occasions, my companion and I agreed that nothing should +induce us to leave a path, should we perchance find one. Now, in a dim +light it is exceedingly easy to discover paths, but extremely difficult to +discover that variety of track that leads anywhere. Determined, however, +to stick to our resolution, we found ourselves continually pursuing level +stretches right and left, only to find that, as routes to any particular +place, they were snares and delusions; that there was a path with long +zigzags we knew, and indeed, finally, a shout from the guides, who skipped +about downhill with an utter disregard for the integrity of their joints, +and adopted that curious cantering gait considered on the stage to express +light-hearted joy, announced that they had discovered the way. With +characteristic inconsistency, they had no sooner found what we had been so +long searching for than they proposed to leave it and make short cuts, so +called; but we were inflexible, and determined not to leave our path or be +seduced by the attractions of a perpendicular descent through an unknown +territory. The hotel lights were no longer visible, but we knew that they +lay straight below us. The question was whether we should turn right or +left. The guides settled the matter by darting off ahead, ostensibly from +a perfect acquaintance with their situation, but actually as we suspected +to avoid being worried with unpleasant topographical questions. Gradually +as we followed the track our stern purpose began to waver, for it was +pointed out by some one that the path, though undoubtedly a good one in +point of construction and general purpose, had two distinct disadvantages +from our present point of view; one being that it led uphill, and the +other that it ran in the wrong direction. There are certain contingencies +in life in which the Briton finds but one adequate method of relieving and +expressing his feelings, such, for instance, as when he finds himself +bespattered with mud from the passing hansom on a carefully selected +shirt-front and a white tie that would have moved to envy; or when, again, +as the last to leave his club at night he finds the only remaining +head-gear to consist of a well-worn beaver many sizes too large, with fur +under the brim and a decoration of little rosettes and bobstays. It is +hard to see why the ejaculation of any particular monosyllable should do +him good at such a juncture. Hard words unquestionably break no bones, but +neither do they mend the broken collar-stud or the ruptured bootlace; and +yet if he swallows the expression down it will certainly ferment within +him, and fermentation is characterised by multiplication. If, on the +contrary, he articulates his feelings, the whole situation suddenly +appears changed, and he can view the most untoward circumstances once more +with a calm serenity of temper. But the remedy, though potent, specific +almost, is too valuable to be resorted to constantly, and should be +reserved, like Thursday’s razor, for the most special occasions. + +(M56) + +Our situation on the present occasion fully justified us in resorting to +the source of relief vaguely alluded to, and we employed it simultaneously +with the happiest results. Now the guides triumphed, and such was our +accommodating mood that we actually acceded to their counsel and embarked +on a perilous descent down a vertical gully. Scarcely had we turned into +it when the storm broke and the rain came down in sheets, and very damp +sheets too. Some one now suggested that the wisest plan would be to remain +under shelter till the rain had passed off. It was argued against this +amendment, and with a certain amount of force, first that there was no +probability of the rain stopping, and secondly that there was no shelter: +so we went on. Gradually, as we became more wet, we grew more desperate, +and before long floundered down as regardless of bumps as a bluebottle in +a conservatory: at one moment slithering over wet slabs of rock to which +damp tufts of moss were loosely adherent, at another climbing carefully +over gigantic toothcombs of fallen trees, then plunging head +foremost—sometimes not exactly head foremost—through jungle-like masses of +long grass and dwarf brushwood. Soaked to the skin, steamy, damp, and +perspiring like bridegrooms, we went on, utterly reckless as to our +apparel, and haunted by a perpetual idea that we should find ourselves +ultimately at some place whence further descent would be impossible. + +(M57) + +Within a few minutes the party divided and Jaun and I found ourselves +together. By the lightning flashes I saw him from time to time; on one +occasion he suddenly disappeared from view, and on joining him cautiously +a little while after I found that he had just previously seated himself +abruptly on a flat rock, immediately underneath a miniature torrent. The +fact that we did not at every ten seconds run against large trees +confirmed the idea that we were now almost out of the wood; accordingly we +halloaed, as the occasion seemed suitable, but no answer was returned from +our companions. Now came the question of how we were to cross the torrent +which we knew lay between us and the hotel. Jaun cheerfully remarked that +the best plan would be to find the bridge. This was obvious enough, but he +confessed that he had forgotten at what part of the river’s course the +bridge lay. However, keeping close together, we made towards the right, on +which side the stream lay. The slopes were here more level and less +carelessly laid out. Our hopes revived, for the hotel could only be a few +minutes off, and between the peals of thunder we could hear the roar of +the torrent and could hear also the hollow sound due to the boulders +rolling over its stony bed. Of a sudden we came on to its banks, and +formidable enough the stream looked. The idea of searching for the bridge +seemed childish, for the whole of the frail wooden structure had probably +been carried away long before down to the Rhone valley. The hotel was only +a few yards off, and again the situation was exasperating enough to +justify a resort to extreme measures, if it were an extreme measure to +express forcibly a wish that the torrent might be—well, temporarily +stopped up at some higher point. Jaun now volunteered to wade across. It +was quite unnecessary for him to divest himself of any clothing for the +purpose, and in fact when he had succeeded very pluckily in reaching the +other side he was not in the least degree wetter than when he started. He +shouted some observations from the other side, which I took to mean that +he would go on to the hotel and procure a lantern. Accordingly I seated +myself to await his return, selecting unintentionally a little pool of +water, which however did just as well as anything else. + +(M58) + +Before long a flashing light advancing indicated that Jaun had been +successful, and two forms were seen dimly on the opposite side, one with a +light. The bearer of the lantern was an aged person in shirt sleeves and a +highly excited frame of mind. The aged person, on the distant shore, +gesticulated as violently as a marionette doll when its wires have got +hitched up wrong, and then, seemingly possessed of a sudden fury, rushed +violently down a steep place and beckoned frantically with his lantern. +This seemed to mean that I was to descend to a point on the bank opposite +to where he stood. It now appeared that there was a bridge within a few +yards of us, if a single spiky, submerged, and insecure trunk could be +considered such. The old man embraced me warmly when I had made my way +across, slapped me hard on the back, and then laughed very loud and +suddenly. Then he darted off with the agility and abruptness of movement +of an elderly lady from the country crossing in front of an omnibus, or a +hen, a foolish animal that always waits to the last moment before running +needlessly to the wrong side of the road. Guided by the lantern which the +impulsive veteran flourished wildly in every direction, so that no one +dared approach him, in another ten minutes we reached the hotel and found +ourselves, with the exception of our companions, who had arrived a few +minutes before—Heaven only knows how, for they did not—fortunately the +only occupants of the hotel. The volatile sexagenarian calmed down, put on +his coat, put out his lantern, and retired to repose in an outhouse, a +shelter to which I fancy he was relegated owing to certain physical +infirmities. + +(M59) + +It was eleven o’clock, and we had been pretty actively employed for +twenty-one hours. The idea of food and a change of raiment was not, +therefore, distasteful. A middle-aged female with an excessively +“rational” and hygienic waist, who said she was the waitress, volunteered +to serve the banquet, but the change of raiment necessary was naturally +beyond her means, while the idea of borrowing from the aged person’s +wardrobe did not commend itself to us, so we ordered in a large stock of +towels. “But,” I remarked, “you can’t go about in a bath towel”—the truth +of which assertion was immediately evident, for they were so small that it +was difficult to fasten them with any degree of security; accordingly +blankets were requisitioned, and a very classical effect in costume was +thus produced, though what the Romans did when there was a gale of wind I +do not know. To keep up the delusion we arranged the chairs after the +fashion of couches, and appeased our hunger with a curious repast of +stewed apples and mixed biscuits, the sole articles of food that could be +discovered. However, to anticipate, we fared better the next day at +breakfast; for though Bright Chanticleer proclaimed the morn at 3 A.M. he +did not proclaim any subsequent period of time, as he was captured and +cooked for our repast. The waitress while we supped was busily engaged in +stoking up the stove, and seized upon our damp raiment with avidity to +have it ready for the next morning; so energetic was she in fact that we +felt it necessary to remonstrate, foreseeing the probability that our +clothes might have to be brought back to us in a dust shovel: we remarked +that, though sorry for our misdeeds, we would limit for choice the +repentant nature of our apparel to the sackcloth we were then wearing and +would dispense with the adjunct of ashes. The unreliable nature of the +fastenings of our costume prevented us from accompanying our forcible +remarks with properly impressive gestures. The remonstrance, however, had +the desired effect, and our garments the next day, though somewhat +shrivelled and inconveniently tight here and there, still proved that they +had resisted effectively the fire as well as the water. + +(M60) + +The amount of luxury found in the Lötschthal since those days has +materially improved. Time was when the only accommodation for the +traveller was to be found at the humble tenement of Mons. le Curé, a +worthy old creature as I remember him, who appeared to keep an apiary in +his back drawing-room and was wont to produce the most excellent honey and +the most uncompromising bread; the latter article, as one might judge, was +baked about as often as the old gentleman washed himself. But the milk of +human kindness flowed strongly in him (as it may be said to do in those +who have been made the subjects of transfusion), though, to tell the +truth, it was somewhat decidedly flavoured with garlic, and it needed much +resolution to attentively listen to the confidential communications he was +in the habit of whispering. A man of education and gentle refinement—at +any rate of mind—his was a hard lot, buried away in a squalid little +parish, with no earthly being to talk to possessed of more than one idea; +yet he slaved on contentedly enough with no thought beyond the peasants in +his own district and of how he might relieve their condition, too often at +the expense of his own welfare; isolated more than any ascetic, for his +mental existence was that of a hermit, from circumstances and not from +will. The thought of solitary confinement is terrible, but utter mental +isolation is hideous. Yet, while he entertained us hospitably with fare +which, though rough, was the very best he could offer, he would not join +in the repast: not, probably, from lack of appetite, but from a feeling +that, owing to prolonged seclusion and association with the peasants, the +more fashionable and accepted methods of preparing food for consumption +and conveying it to the mouth, with subsequent details, were somewhat dim +to his recollection. Yet his conversation flowed fast and he talked well: +the while any reference to friends and fellow-travellers would cause him +to pause for a moment or two, look upwards around the room, and fetch a +rather long breath before he recommenced. A curiously gaunt old creature +he seemed at first sight: with wonderful, bony, plastic hands capable of +expressing anything; grotesque almost in his unkempt rustiness; provoking +a smile at first, but sadness as one learnt more of him. And how closely +are the two emotions associated. In truth Humour was born a twin, and her +sister was christened Pathos. + +I can recall that he accepted a sum of ten francs when we parted in the +morning. His eyes glistened with pleasure as he took the coin and +straightway made for a ramshackle hovel on the hill-side, where lay an +aged person “très-malade.” Possibly after his visit there was left a happy +peasant in that tumble-down cabin—an emotional object more often described +than witnessed. But all this took place years ago, and as we passed the +collection of dilapidated tenements in one of which our old friend once +lived, I failed to recognise his former dwelling-place. The timbers grew +old and worn, the bands rusty, and one day the wheel which had worked +steadily for so long stopped. Yet the stream which had moved it ran on as +if nothing had happened. Was it a wasted life? Who can say if there be +such a thing? + + A few can touch the magic string, + And noisy Fame is proud to win them: + Alas! for those that never sing, + But die with all their music in them. + +We passed on: in a few minutes the houses were lost to view and there was +left but the reflection of how much more, worthy of study, there was in +this old curé’s nature than in the majority of Swiss with whom +mountaineering brings us in close contact. + +(M61) + +As we descended the Lötschthal to Gampel the air seemed to thicken. The +excessive warmth allowed our garments to stretch once again to their +wonted girth, and we became less thoughtful. The vignette of the ancient +curé dissolved away and was replaced by a view (mental only, unhappily) of +our aiguille at Chamouni, black and bare of snow, inviting another attack. +Gampel does not tempt the traveller much to seek repose, and we therefore +caught the first train that came crawling along the valley and shaped our +course for Chamouni in a second-class carriage tenanted by a _pension_ of +young ladies out for a holiday apparently, who all chirped and twittered +and wrangled for the best places till the going down of the sun, like the +Temple sparrows. + + + + + + CHAPTER V. + + + AN OLD FRIEND WITH A NEW FACE + + + Chamouni again—The hotel _clientèle_—A youthful hero—The + inevitable English family—A scientific gentleman—A dream of the + future—The hereafter of the Alps and of Alpine literature—A + condensed mountain ascent—Wanted, a programme—A double “Brocken”—A + hill-side phenomenon and a familiar character—A strong + argument—Halting doubts and fears—A digression on mountaineering + accidents—“From gay to grave, from lively to severe”—The storm + breaks—A battle with the elements—Beating the air—The ridge + carried by assault—What next, and next?—A topographical problem + and a cool proposal—The descent down the Vallée Blanche—The old + Montanvert hotel—The Montanvert path and its frequenters. + + +It was the summer of 18— and our old quarters at Couttet’s hotel knew us +once more. As we drove into the village of Chamouni we turned our heads +carelessly around to note the various new hotels that might have arisen +since our last visit. Observing that they were four or five in number, we +rightly conjectured that we should find all the hotel keepers complaining +bitterly of the hard times and the want of custom. Also we wondered in how +many ways it was possible to build a house without any particular system +of drainage, a deficiency which was at that time becoming very marked in +Chamouni, but has since, I believe, been improved. Yet the place itself +had not altered essentially. New buildings of imposing exterior and little +else do not materially alter a place that leads a life like that of modern +Chamouni. The population, which throughout the summer appears to pass its +time in the streets with its hands in its pockets, was still amusing +itself in the same way. The tone of the village was just the same as we +had always known it, and even M. Couttet himself had not succeeded in +imparting any marine flavour by building an odd little lighthouse with an +iron flag on the top which the architect had ingeniously represented as +streaming permanently in a direction indicating a wind favourable for fine +weather. We knew that we should find the same denizens in the hotel; and +they were there. + +(M62) + +There was a very young man with a very parti-coloured face from exposure +on the glaciers, who had recently completed the thousand-and-first ascent +of Mont Blanc and was perpetually posing gracefully against the door-post +or in a lattice-work summer-house a few steps from the hotel, gazing +towards the mountain and rather eagerly joining in any conversation +relating to the perils of the ascent. There were three or four young +ladies of various periods of life who gazed at him with admiration and +enquired at intervals if he wasn’t very tired; to which the young man +replied carelessly that he was not, and inwardly thought that the +discomfort of sunburn and the consequent desquamation was on the whole +cheaply bought, the while he wished the expedition had not cost so much +and that so many others had not thought of making the same ascent. And +then there came a lithe, active lady walker who had been up Mont Blanc and +a great many other mountains too, and paid no more attention to the +guides’ stereotyped compliments than a suspicious dog does to those of a +nervous visitor: so the young man’s nose was put out of joint and he would +have laughed scornfully at the fickleness of hero worship had not the skin +of his face been in danger of cracking, and he wished his shirt collar had +not been starched and thumped by the village washerwoman into the form of +a circular linen saw. + +(M63) + +Then there was an excitable Englishman of impulsive habits, with a large +family who were perpetually playing a game of follow-my-leader with their +parent, and who were under orders to weigh anchor on the following morning +at five o’clock for the Montanvert and the Mauvais Pas. The boys were +stoking up for the occasion with raw apples, and the girls were occupied, +when not pursuing their restless father, in preparing a puggaree for his +hat. There was a gentleman who affected the curious untidiness of raiment +not unfrequently noticed among Sunday frequenters of the Thames, and who +sought to establish a mountaineering reputation by constantly gazing at +the peaks around in a knowing manner and wearing a flannel shirt of an +obtrusive pattern destitute of any collar. There were guides about, who +were on the point of being paid for their services and who were +exceedingly polite and obsequious; others whose “tour” had just passed, +were, proportionately, less deferential. There was an elderly lady whose +whole soul appeared bent on a little stocking from which she never parted, +and who turned the knitting needles to more account for toilet and other +small purposes than I could have conceived to be possible. There were two +or three mountaineers who appeared anxious only to avoid everyone’s gaze +and who might be seen in byways and odd corners talking to bronzed guides +who looked like business. Finally, there was a gentleman of statistical +and scientific tendencies, much given to making quietly astonishing +statements of astronomical facts and gently smiling as he rolled over his +tongue and enjoyed the flavour of the vast numbers with which it was his +pleasure to deal. He absolutely revelled and wallowed in figures. +Buttonholed in a corner and compelled to listen with deferential +attention, I secretly writhed as he crushed me slowly with the mere weight +of his numerals. He shared with others of his frame of mind the +peculiarity of always keeping something in hand and skilfully working up +to a climax. Such and such a star was so many millions of miles off. We +opened our eyes to the proper degree of width and observed, “Bless me!” +or, “You don’t say so?” Instantly he would rejoin, “Ah, but that’s nothing +to so and so,” and then favoured us with a still more immeasurable +distance. We expressed a slightly greater degree of intelligent amazement. +Thereupon he nodded his head, gently inclined it a little to one side, and +smiled softly. It gave him such evident pleasure to have a listener that I +attended with due reverence to his enthusiastic computations; knowing my +man, I felt sure that he was keeping back a real staggerer to finish up +with, and was prepared to assume varying degrees of surprise up to the +moment when it should come. Unfortunately I misjudged its advent, and +feeling that I had somewhat lost in his estimation by evincing undue +astonishment at a comparatively small array of figures, I sought to turn +the conversation by requesting to know how long he thought it might be +before the great rock peaks around us would have crumbled away to their +bases. The calculation was too trivial and the number of millions of +generations too small to interest him much, but he vouchsafed an +approximate estimate. + +(M64) + +I let him babble on and fell a-thinking. The peaks were crumbling away bit +by bit no doubt, the glaciers shrinking. At a bound the mind leapt into a +future which, after all, might be not so very unlike a past. The Alps +things of the past! What, I wondered, when the mountains were all levelled +down and smiling valleys occupied the troughs of the glaciers of to-day, +would some future commentators make of the literature so industriously +piled up by the members and followers of the Alpine Club? Imagination ran +riot as in a dream, and I fancied some enthusiast exploring the buried +city of the second Babylon and excavating the ruins of the “finest site in +Europe.” I pictured to myself the surprise in store for him on digging out +the effigies of some of our naval and military heroes, and the mingled +feelings with which he would contemplate the unearthed statue of George +IV. It seemed possible that in that far-off epoch to which my friend’s +calculations had borne me, the Alpine Club itself might have ceased to +exist. Pursuing his explorations in an easterly direction, the excavator +might perchance have lighted on a strange tunnel, almost Arcadian in its +simplicity of design, and marvelled at the curious and cheap idols of wax +and wood which the people of that ancient day had evidently worshipped. +Turning north again, this Schliemann of the future would pass by the ruins +of S. Martin’s Church, eager to light upon the precious archives of the +historic Alpine Club itself. How eagerly he would peruse the lore +contained in the Club library, anxious to decipher the inscriptions and +discover what manner of men they were who lived and climbed when mountains +and glaciers were still to be found on this planet. Human nature would +probably not have changed much, and the successful explorer might even +have been asked to favour a scientific society of the future with the +result of his discoveries, to which in all probability he would have +acceded, with a degree of reluctance not quite sufficient to deter the +secretary of the society from pressing him. + +(M65) + +An abstract of his description of our sibylline leaves I fancied might run +somewhat in this style:—After commenting on the fact that the maps and +illustrations did not usually correspond in number with the list set forth +in the index of the volumes unearthed, he might proceed thus:—“In pursuit +of their great and glorious object these ancient heroes appear to have +undergone vast personal discomfort. It is difficult therefore to realise +fully why so many engaged in this form of exploration. Instances have been +given by other learned antiquarians who have studied the habits of this +people, of a similar purposeless disregard of comfort, such as the +four-wheeled wooden boxes in which they travelled about, the seats in +their churches, &c. The outset of their expedition was almost invariably +characterised by a display of bad temper, attributed to early rising. +After a varying number of hours of excessive toil the travellers were wont +to arrive at some fearsome chasm spoken of as a ‘bergschrund.’ On this, if +the subject-matter of their narrative was insufficient in quantity, they +were wont to descant and enlarge at length; sometimes, as we judge, in +their descriptions they enlarged the bergschrund itself. They then crossed +it. Immediately after this incident they were in the habit of eating, and +the minute and instructive details commonly given enable us to form a +tolerably accurate opinion as to the nature of the diet with which they +supported their exhausted frames. Next they traversed strange localities +for which there appear to have been no adequately descriptive expressions +in their own language. In fact the difficulty of deciphering these records +is greatly increased by the fact that the writers were versatile +linguists, for they constantly make use of words of a hybrid character. +They were evidently practised meteorologists and took much interest in +this subject, as may be gathered throughout from their writings. At length +they reached summits, of the nature of which we in our time can have but a +feeble conception. So great was their relief at the termination of their +self-imposed but toilsome task, that they habitually burst forth into +language characterised by a wealth of imagery and a fervour of poetic +description which unfortunately conveys but little idea to us in our day +of what they actually saw. In descending they were all commonly within an +ace of meeting with a violent death. The mode in which the danger attacked +them varied within certain restricted limits, but it always occurred and +the escape was always narrow. The peril over, they remarked that they +breathed freely again, and then at once fell to eating. Arrived at a +successful termination of their wearisome labour, they advised others to +do the same. They dealt out unsparing satire to their companions, +unlimited praise to their guides, and unmeasured ridicule to their porter. +They commonly expressed throughout their descriptions grave doubts and +uncertainty as to the issue of the expedition: a curious and noteworthy +fact, for the heading of the accounts always divulged at the outset their +ultimate success. The construction, therefore, of their narratives was in +accordance with a well-recognised model and appeared capable of little +variation. The only other facts that we can glean are that they were +prodigious eaters, were much pestered by some extinct species of insects, +and that they make frequent allusions to a substance termed tobacco. The +constant repetition of these incidents stamps upon their writings the +impress of unexaggerated veracity. Still they were not universally held in +favour, indeed were regarded with disapprobation by some individuals of +their own race. It would seem indeed from internal evidence that, had it +not been for frequent and sharp criticism of their proceedings, their +pastime might never have inveigled so many persons with its seductive +fascination.” + +Now at the time at which these prophetic fancies were conjured up we had +just completed an expedition which it seemed might be worthy of attention, +solely on the ground of its very contradictoriness. For the features of +this climb were most opposed to those already mentioned, and in fact +mention of it scarcely seemed admissible in an Alpine narrative. We took +no porter with us to fill the rôle of first low comedy man. We had very +little to eat; our stock of wine ran out through a leaky gourd; our +tobacco was wet and there was no bergschrund, and yet all this happened on +a mountain close to Chamouni. + +(M66) + +“Some vast amount of years ago, ere all my youth had vanished from me,” as +the poet says, at a date therefore which for obvious reasons it is +inexpedient here to mention, I found myself, as already mentioned, at +Chamouni. With me was an old mountain friend and fellow climber, J. Oakley +Maund. We were both burning with desire to add to the list of the many +successful expeditions we had made together, but, as a matter of fact, +were somewhat gravelled for lack of suitable matter. Like a ministry on +the eve of a general election or a gentleman without a sixpenny-piece at a +theatre, we were sorely in need of a programme. The locality was somewhat +unfortunately chosen for those in whom the ancient spirit was not yet +quite extinct and who wanted to do something new. Ever since the days when +Jacques Balmat, Dr. Paccard, and the great De Saussure had donned strange +apparel and shown the way—that is to say, for nearly a hundred +years—people had been climbing mountains in the district, and it was not +to be wondered at if it were hard to find some expedition which nobody +else had thought of, or, worse still, had achieved. We gazed at the map +and made thumb marks all over it. In every conceivable direction ran +little lines indicative of previous explorations. We studied the _carte en +relief_, but without much hope of getting any information of value from +this inaccurate and lumpy absurdity. Mont Blanc, which, according to this +work of plastic art, was modelled out as some eight or ten thousand feet +higher than any other point of the chain, had had all the snow worn off +its summit by much fingering, so that the component pasteboard showed +through. Rivers ran uphill in this map, and lakes were inclined at an +angle; bits of sticking plaister represented towns and villages, and the +whole article was absolutely bristling with little spikes and points like +the old panoramas of London or the docks at Liverpool. Still a +considerable number of people seemed willing enough to pay fifty centimes +for the pleasure of indicating elaborate expeditions on it with their +fore-fingers, and appeared to derive pleasure from gazing on a pasteboard +misrepresentation when they could by looking out of window see the real +thing for nothing. We abandoned the _carte en relief_ and took Jaun and +Kaspar Maurer into our confidence. The only suggestions that they could +make were the Aiguille des Charmoz and the Dent du Géant. The former of +these two peaks we had both tried to ascend in former seasons, without +success. Jaun did not think then that it was possible, and without sharing +his opinion we gave way to it. With regard to the latter mountain we all +thought at the time that an undue amount of what is vaguely termed +“artificial aid” would be necessary to ensure success, an opinion +confirmed by subsequent events, for when Signor Sella achieved the honour +of the first ascent he was only able to accomplish it by somewhat +elaborate engineering appliances. Some bold person of an original turn of +thought suggested of course a variation of some way up Mont Blanc, but the +utter impossibility of discovering the slightest deviation from any +previously ascended route and the utter uselessness of trying to find one +caused a general shout of derision, and the bold person thereupon withdrew +his suggestion and ordered some coffee. Besides, the weather was fine; +every day swarms of tourists could be seen, crawling up the sides of the +monarch of mountains, in numbers as many as the flies on a sugar loaf in a +grocer’s window on a hot day. + +One evening we sat in front of Couttet’s hotel staring pensively at the +familiar outline of the row of aiguilles, and wishing we had lived in the +days of Albert Smith, the best friend Chamouni ever had. At any rate, at +that time the natives were unsophisticated and the mountains about were +not all done to death. The valley between us and the chain was filled with +a light haze, not sufficient to conceal the outline of the mountains but +yet enough to blot out their detail and solidity. As the moon rose behind +the chain we saw a strange phenomenon. A silhouette was thrown forwards on +to the curtain of haze and photographed on it with sharp and clear +definition, so that we could recognise, at an immense height, the shadowed +peaks looking almost as massive as the actual mountains. Nor was this all; +a second curtain of mist seemed to be suspended, in a vertical stratum, in +front of the former one, and the shadows were again marked out on this, +infinitely more magnified and less distinct, but still perfectly +recognisable. As a result we were able to see the semblance of three +distinct tiers of mountains one above the other, looking so massive that +we could scarcely realise that they were but transparent ghosts of the +peaks; and the phenomenon, a double “Brocken,” must have lasted for more +than half an hour. However, we desired something more of the nature of the +substance than the shadow, and ultimately came to the conclusion that it +was absolutely necessary for our peace of mind to accomplish something on +the morrow, and as it really mattered but little what that something might +be, provided a good climb was afforded, we must yield to circumstances and +perforce adopt the latter-day necessity of all mountaineers. If we could +not find the right way up some new mountain we could at least take the +wrong way up an old one. + +(M67) + +So the next morning we walked up to the Pierre Pointue as a preliminary +step—a good many and rather arduous steps—towards the object in view. The +exertion of toiling up the zigzags or the more rarefied atmosphere had a +remarkable effect on one of the party, whose face when we reached the +chalet was found to be wreathed in smiles and wearing an expression of +great intelligence. He had in fact become possessed of an idea. Bubbling +over with self-satisfied chuckles, he suggested that we should ascend the +Aiguille du Midi by the face directly in front of us and then descend on +the other side, thus making a col of the mountain. The idea found favour +instantly, and the intelligent person was so much pleased that he ordered +a bottle of wine, plastered over with a very costly variety of label, and +regretted it. Investigation of the cellar revealed only two casks of wine, +but the “carte” comprised a long list of various vintages. Fired with +enthusiasm and inflated with _limonade gazeuse_, we left the chalet and +strode vigorously up the hill in order to prospect the route and +reconnoitre the rocks. The exertion and the pace soon told upon us, the +sooner that it was a hot, enervating day; the kind of day that makes one +perforce admire the ingenious benevolence of nature in fashioning out on +the grassy slopes rounded inequalities, exactly adapted to those of the +human figure in a seated or recumbent position. The heated air rising from +the ground gave flickering and distorted views of distant objects, like +unto marine phenomena viewed through the cheap panes of a seaside +lodging-house window. The grasshoppers were extraordinarily busy; the bees +droned through the heavy air; the ants, overcome apparently by the +temperature, had given up for the time straining their jaws by their +foolish practice of carrying large parcels about without any definite +object, and had retired to the shady seclusion of their own heaped-up +residences; the turf was most inviting. It now occurred to us that there +was no absolute necessity for the whole party to ascend on the present +occasion, and that perhaps the guides might go up quicker alone. The +details of this suggestion were acceded to on the part of the amateurs of +the party with astonishing alacrity and unanimity. We laid the scheme +before the guides, and they also thought it a very fine one. Thereupon, +with much parade and ceremony, they braced themselves up for great +exertion, borrowed the telescope, remarked that they expected to be back +some time during the night, and started upwards with somewhat over-acted +eagerness. My companion and I disposed ourselves comfortably in the shade, +and resumed an argument which had originally commenced some days +previously. I waxed eloquent on the subject under discussion and with much +success, for such was the force of my logic and the cogency of my +reasoning that I bore down on my opponent, and reduced him in a short time +to absolute silence, from which he did not awake for nearly two hours. + +(M68) + +About this time the guides, who in all probability had also been +comfortably asleep within a short distance of us, returned and gave a +favourable report concerning the mountain. Elated by this news, we climbed +a short distance further up, and met there a large party of ephemeral +acquaintances who were taking an afternoon’s pleasure on the hills. After +the manner of people when so engaged, they set forth with great energy and +climbed up a steep little rock tump a few hundred yards distant. Arrived +at the summit, they roared out unintelligible remarks to us, and we did +the same to them till we were hoarse; we waved our hands and hats and they +flourished their handkerchiefs as if they were our dearest friends on +earth, just setting out on an emigrant ship for the Antipodes. The party +then descended; the nearer they came the less friendly and demonstrative +were we, and by the time we met the warmth of affection recently +manifested on both sides had wholly evaporated, and we conversed in +ordinary tones on indifferent topics. Then they set out for another little +hill, and we were moved, apparently by some uncontrollable impulse, to go +through the same idiotic performance. Emotional behaviour of a similar +kind is not infrequently observed in the mountains. We journeyed together +back to the Pierre Pointue, viewing each other with distrust and +suspicion; and when it was found that we had bespoken the beds—if the +exaggerated packing-cases lined with straw bags could be considered +such—we parted on terms the reverse of friendly. So frail are the links +that bind human affections. + +(M69) + +Standing in front of the hut was a type of character very familiar in +these tourist-frequented districts. His exterior was unpromising; his +beard of a fortnight’s growth, or thereabouts, somewhat fitful withal and +lacking in uniformity of development. A hard hat, with a shining green +veil folded around its battered outline, decorated his head; his raiment +was black and rusty, his legs cased in canvas gaiters fastened with many +little girths and buckles, and in his right hand he grasped a trusty +three-franc pole made of wainy deal, and surmounted at the top by a brown +knob similar to those which come out suddenly when we try to open a chest +of drawers in a cheap lodging. He fidgeted about for a while, asked +questions in a rather loud tone of voice at us, and we felt that it was +his intention to enter into conversation. It was even so. After a while he +sidled up and requested with much diffidence to be informed what we +proposed to climb on the morrow. Now the true mountaineer, however amiable +his disposition, always shrinks up into his shell when such a question is +put to him on the eve of an expedition. My companion indicated by a sweep +of the arm a space of territory extending about from the Mont Buet on the +one side round to the Aiguille de Gouté on the other. Our friend surveyed +from end to end the extensive panorama suggested, then looked seriously at +us and observed that we should probably find it a fine walk. We expressed +gravely the opinion that he was quite right, and then went in to dinner, +while our composite friend expatiated on the project to his companions as +an expedition but little out of the ordinary run, and one that he was +perfectly prepared to undertake himself if so disposed; then he resumed +his contemplation of a rock some ninety feet or so in height jutting out +through the glacier above, which he was under the impression was a lady +descending from Mont Blanc. We did not learn his name, but the individual +may, nevertheless, possibly be recognised. Some points of the argument +were still unsettled when we climbed over the edges of our respective +boxes and vanished into the strawy depths below. The clear moonlight +streamed in through the window and prevented sleep; so I lay in my wooden +box thinking over the recent discussion, but with such a distinct +intention—like little Paul Dombey with Mrs. Pipchin—of fixing my companion +presently, that even that hardy old mountaineer deemed it prudent to +counterfeit slumber. + +In the small hours of the morning we got under weigh. For some time we had +been leading a life of sloth in Chamouni, and the delight of finding +ourselves once more on the mountain path, and making for a rock climb, +entirely precluded that fractiousness which, as all readers of Alpine +literature know, ought properly to be described at this period of an +expedition. The path was irregular and demanded some equanimity, for the +stumbling-blocks were innumerable and artfully placed to trip up the +unwary in an aggravating manner. Feeling it unfair that all the work +should be thrown on the guides, I had volunteered, rather magnanimously, +to bear part of the burden, and selected the lantern as my share. By this +means it was not only possible to walk in comfort over a well-lighted +track, but the bearer was enabled also to regulate the pace to a speed +convenient to his own feelings. Before long, however, we reached the lower +snow patches of the Glacier des Pélèrins, and the light was no longer +necessary. + +(M70) + +We made straight across the crisp snow to the base of a promising-looking +rock buttress lying to the right of the snow gully that runs up the side +of the mountain, feeling sure that either by the rocks or the snow a way +up could be found. And now I am painfully conscious of a glaring defect in +this Alpine narrative. A mountain ascent without a bergschrund is as tame +as a steeplechase without a water jump, but candour compels the admission +that no bergschrund was visible. Either we had hit on a spot where the +orthodox chasm was filled up for the time, or else this particular glacier +was an exception to all others previously treated of in mountain +literature. In a few seconds we found ourselves on the rocks, delighted to +exchange the monotonous mode of progression compulsory on snow for the +varied gymnastic exercises demanded on rocks. The sun had risen, the axes +clanked merrily against the stones, the snow was in good condition for +walking, everything seemed favourable, and we gazed down complacently on +the distance already traversed. Above us the mountain was broken up and +easy, and we climbed on rapidly, each in the fashion that seemed best to +him. So good was our progress at first, that we were already far up the +buttress, and could barely see our morning’s tracks in the snow beneath, +when a halt was called for breakfast, and we had time to look around. Now, +however unconventional this expedition may have been in many respects, the +sagacious student of Alpine literature will know that it must be wholly +impossible to omit all reference to the weather. As soon might one expect +two prosaic persons of slight acquaintanceship to abjure the topic at a +chance meeting. The western sky wore a rather ominous look of half +mourning, and heavy grey and black clouds were whirling about and forming +up in close order in a manner suggestive of rising wind. Even at this +stage of the proceedings the thought crossed our minds that the storm +which was evidently brewing might possibly overtake us, and that perhaps +we ought at once to turn back. + +(M71) + +One thing was evident; that we must decide quickly, whatever we did. We +determined to push on for a while, and with that intent girded ourselves +with the rope and worked our way on to the top of the first buttress. At +this point, further progress directly upwards was impossible, and we were +compelled to cross the gully and make for the rock on the left-hand side. +Considerable care is always necessary in crossing, horizontally, a gully +filled with snow, where the rope is rather a source of danger than of +security. We had to give all our attention to the passage, and when we +reached the rocks opposite, the climbing, though not formidable, was still +sufficiently difficult to occupy all our thoughts for the moment, and we +had but little leisure, and perhaps but little inclination, for +meteorological observations. At the top of the rocks a promising snow +slope, stretching upwards with gentle curves and sweeps, seemed to offer a +fair prospect of rapid progress. Such snow slopes are at all times a +little deceptive. Even when the climber is close to them they look +oftentimes much easier than they immediately after prove to be. From a +distance, say from under the verandah of a comfortable hotel, when the +climber _in posse_ indicates the way he would pursue with the end of his +cigar, they are absurdly easy. So, too, are obstacles in the +hunting-field, such as stiff hedges and uncompromising gates, easy enough +when the Nimrod studies them as he whirls along in an express train. +Subsequently, when immediately associated with a horse, these same +obstacles assume a different guise. Then are the sentiments of the hunter +prone to become modified, and compassion for dumb beasts becomes more +prominent in the thoughtful votary of the chase, till finally it may be +observed that the little wits jump sometimes more than the great ones. +Even so does the mountaineer often discover, on a nearer acquaintance that +the snow incline up which he proposed to stride merrily is inclined at a +highly inconvenient angle. However, at the commencement of our slope we +found the snow in good condition, and advanced quickly for some little +distance, but before we had got very far it was necessary to resort to the +axe, and we had then ample opportunities of looking round. The clouds were +lowering more and more, but as they were swept up by a sou’westerly wind, +the intervening mass of the mountain prevented us from seeing thoroughly +what might be in store for us. The wind, too, was growing stronger every +minute, and my companion, who was still pursuing his argument, and, as it +appeared subsequently, making some rather good points, had to exert +himself considerably in order to make his voice heard. + +Presently we halted for a few minutes on some spiky little rocks, and +again looked about. The weather prospects were just in that doubtful state +that prompts every member of the party to ask the others what they think. +Maurer looked exceedingly vacant and made no remark. Jaun put a bit of +snow in his mouth, but declined to give an opinion. We, not to be outdone, +assumed very profound expressions, as if prepared to find ourselves in the +right whatever happened, but, following the example of Lord Burleigh in +the famous tragedy, we said nothing either. At last, some one suggested +that we might go on for a little, and then see. Accordingly we went on for +a little, but then as a matter of fact the mists swept up around us and we +did not see anything at all. It was, no doubt, inconvenient that we were +unable to penetrate with our gaze to the regions above, but still we felt +that there was one slight counterbalancing advantage, for there was +present the haunting consciousness that the gigantic telescope of Chamouni +was pointed in our direction, and at least the enveloping mist ensured +that privacy which is not always accorded to climbers pursuing their +pastime within range of these instruments of science. + +(M72) + +In the hope that the condition of the upper snow might be good, and +perhaps rather mistaken in the height we had already reached, we made up +our minds to push on, with the view of reaching at any rate the top of the +ridge before the storm broke. Every now and again a rent in the clouds +above, lasting for a few seconds, showed us that the wind was blowing with +great force, as thin clouds of loose snow were swept up and whirled along +the face in curling wreaths. The spectacle might not, at first sight, have +been thought highly diverting: yet as we pointed upwards to the ridge and +watched the racing snow-drifts driving over the slopes we were making for, +we all laughed very heartily. So universal is the tendency to be amused at +the sight of discomfort that it even extends to the contemplation of its +occurring shortly to oneself. In the paulo-post-future the experience is +exhilarating: in the actual present it is less laughter-moving. Laughter +in the presence of events that are, in the true sense of the word, +sensational, comes almost as a reflex action (to borrow an expression from +the physiologists), and the sympathetic distress that follows takes an +appreciable time to develop. I can recall once being a witness with some +others of a ghastly accident by which several people were precipitated, +together with a mass of broken timbers and débris of all sorts, from a +great height. A door was burst open and the ruin met our eyes suddenly. To +this day I can remember sounds of laughter at the first view—hysterical if +you like to call it so, and not mirthful, but still laughter. In a few +seconds the realisation of what had happened came, and then came the +distress and with it expressions of horror, as all worked manfully to help +and rescue the sufferers. The sequence of emotions was perfectly natural, +and only they who have never passed through such an experience would speak +of inhumanity. There is no want of humanity in the matter. The suddenness +of the impression begets the train of emotions, and the brain grasps the +facts but slowly. To take another instance: I have been told by a man +whose quickness and presence of mind were remarkable—a man who as a +schoolboy won a Royal Humane Society’s medal—that on one occasion he +witnessed a friend fall over a staircase from a great height. The accident +was in the highest degree unexpected: and the witness walked leisurely on +as if nothing had happened. But in a few seconds came like a severe blow +the sudden realisation of what had taken place. Thought is not always +quick. We can no more exert our minds to their fullest capacity on a +sudden than we can put forth our utmost physical strength on a sudden. +Action when almost instantaneous is independent of the higher mental +faculties, and is but a reflex. The experience of those who have been in +railway accidents will be of the same nature. In climbing up a very steep +or difficult place if a man falls all are prepared more or less for such +an accident. The whole attention is given to guarding against a probable +contingency, and it follows that the mind can instantly realise its +occurrence. And that such is the case I have been unlucky enough to +witness, though most fortunately the fall was attended with no serious +consequences. On the same principle, to take a more trivial example, on +difficult rocks it is the rarest possible accident for a man to sprain his +ankle or knee. The muscles are always prepared for a possible slip and +kept in tension on the alert. On the loose moraine, when walking leisurely +or carelessly, such an accident is a thousand times more likely to occur. + +(M73) + +Our leader worked away with a will, but the snow got harder at every step. +The growing force of the wind, which in nautical language had increased +from that vague degree known as a capful to the indefinite force of a +stiff breeze, and the increasing steepness of the slope, compelled Jaun to +make the steps larger and larger as we ascended. It soon became evident +that the storm would overtake us long before we could hope to get on to +the ridge, and that we had deliberately walked into something of a trap. +The steps had been cut so far apart that to descend by the same line would +have involved the construction of a fresh staircase, and on actually +turning, we found that what was a stiff breeze behind us was a half gale +when it met our faces. It was certainly easier to go on than to go back; +so we went further and fared much worse. The slope became steeper, the ice +harder, the half gale became a whole gale, and the delay between each step +seemed interminable. Suddenly, as we passed from under the lee of a +projecting slope on our right, a tremendous gust of wind, which seemed to +have waited for a few moments in order to collect its full forces, swept +suddenly down and almost tore us from our foothold. With that a torrent of +hail fell, and for a few moments we had enough to do to hold on where we +stood. Even my companion’s conversation slackened. He had astutely +selected a place in the caravan immediately behind me, and as the gale was +blowing directly on our backs was enabled to fire off his remarks and +arguments without any possibility of response. Anything that I said in +answer was audible only to our leader, who took not the smallest interest +in the discussion. Unfortunately, too, it was difficult to listen with any +attention; for as the gusts came on we were forced to swing all our faces +round like chimney cowls instantly in the same direction. The squalls +became more frequent and more violent, the thunder and lightning played +around merrily, and as the wind howled by we had to throw ourselves flat +against the slope, adopting the undignified attitudes of a deer-stalker +nearing the brow of a Scotch hill—attitudes which bring somewhat unduly +into prominence the inadequate nature of the national costume. +Fortunately, as has been said, we were screened from view; and our poses, +though possibly ungraceful, were at any rate uncriticised. The big +hailstones, falling softly around, filled up the steps as they were made, +and our feet were buried up to the ankles in a moment. In a minute or two +the hurricane passed for the time; then we arose, shook ourselves, smiled +at nothing in particular, and the leader would find time during the +comparative lull to hack out three or four fresh steps. Certain sounds, +not accounted for by the elements, coming up from below, may have been +suggestions or may have been arguments, but they were knocked out of all +intelligible shape before they reached the head of the caravan. Not even +the porter at Lloyd’s or the captain of a merchantman could have made +himself audible in that cyclone. Upwards we went, fighting for each step +and for each yard gained as hard as if we were storming a fortress. Even +while the leader had his axe in the air ready to deliver a fresh blow a +distant roar would betoken another onslaught, and we instantly fell flat +down like tin soldiers struck with the well-directed pea, and disposed +ourselves at a convenient angle of resistance; and so we went on, when we +did go on at all. If the relation is wearisome it is also realistic, for +we found that the actual experience was far from being lively; but all +things must have an end, including even the _feuilleton_ in a Parisian +newspaper or the walk up to the Bel Alp on a hot day, and the termination +came almost unexpectedly. + +(M74) + +We had got thoroughly tired of perpetually clinging on by the simple force +of adhesion to the storm-swept slope, and felt almost inclined to give up +the struggle against the elements and to go straight on trusting to +chance. Maurer, below, wore the expression of frowning discontent best +seen in amateur tenors singing a tender love ditty. Jaun had remarked +half-a-dozen times that the very next squall would infallibly sweep us all +away, and his cheerful prophetic utterances really seemed on the point of +being fulfilled, when, almost suddenly, the snow seemed to vanish from +under our feet, and we found ourselves on the summit of the ridge; at +least directly above us no more ascent appeared to present. It was +difficult to realise adequately the exact direction in which we were +facing, but I suppose that as the ridge runs about north and south by the +compass, we were facing a little south of east. This was an important +matter to decide, as the mist was gathered thick around and the idea of +descent had to be at once considered now that we had got to a position of +some degree of definiteness. At our feet the snow slope fell away in a +manner so distinct that we were without doubt really on the top of some +portion of the ridge. The difficulty was to estimate how far to our right +the summit of the Aiguille du Midi itself lay. However, we felt with +relief the truth of somebody’s remark that we had at length succeeded in +getting somewhere; so far, no doubt, matters were satisfactory. Howbeit, +our pleasure was somewhat modified by the discovery that the gale blew +with considerably more force on the south-east side than it did on the one +by which we had ascended. We looked towards the south and endeavoured to +gather our wits together to elucidate the geographical problem that +presented. At the foot of the slope must lie the upper basin of the Vallée +Blanche and the Glacier de Tacul; unfortunately there seemed to be a +prodigious storm going on in that basin, and clouds of loose snow were +whirling about in all directions. It was impossible to understand these +winds; one might have thought that Æolus had just stepped out to attend a +committee meeting of the gods, and that all his subordinates were having +high jinks during his absence. + +(M75) + +The possibility of actually completing the ascent of the mountain seemed +out of the question, and the hope that we might have crept under the +shelter of the ridge to the final little rock cone of the Aiguille was +literally thrown to the winds. Here again, therefore, this narrative is +highly unconventional, for it is impossible to consult M. Roget’s +“Thesaurus” and indulge with its aid in any grandiloquent description of +the view from the summit, although my account has now reached the stage at +which such word painting ought properly to be inserted. We turned to our +right, the direction in which the peak lay, and walked some little way +along the ridge till we got under shelter of a rock; now we were able once +more to stand upright and, huddled together, took the opportunity which +had been denied to us for some hours to interchange views. All agreed that +the situation was vile; that word, at least, may be taken as the resultant +of the various forcible epithets actually employed. All agreed that the +cold was intense, the prospect doubtful, and the panorama _nil_. There was +but one redeeming feature: extreme discomfort will reveal humour in those +in whom that quality would not be expected _a priori_ to find a +dwelling-place, and to each one of us the spectacle of his three wobegone +companions seemed to afford, if not amusement, at least an inkling of +complacency. Maurer removed the pack from his shoulders, and it was then +perceived that our cup of misery was full, and our sole remaining bottle +of wine completely empty. We had originally started with two, one white +and one red, of an inferior and indigestible quality, but had left the +white wine down below on the snow; we had previously drunk it. The other +bottle had broken against some projecting rock in climbing up, and the +resulting leakage had led to the formation of a very large circular red +patch in the small of Maurer’s back, wherever that anatomical region might +be situated in our squat and sturdy little guide. After muttering together +in patois for a little while the guides seized their axes and suddenly +commenced with great vigour to hack out a large hole in the ice. We fell +to also, and for some few minutes all worked away with the best of good +will; the splinters and little blocks of ice flew around under our blows, +and before long we had excavated a flat basin capable of holding water. At +the least, the exercise had the effect of warming us, and Maurer, who +previously, from the effects of the cold, had been the colour of a +congested alderman in the face, gradually assumed a more healthy hue. We +now inquired what the object might be of preparing this cavern. Thereupon +Jaun gave vent to the ingenious suggestion that we had better remain where +we were and sleep in it. The idea seemed too likely to lead to permanent +repose to be commendable, and we received his proposition, as befitted its +nature, with some coolness, remarking that on the whole we should prefer +to go home. This view led to further conversation; ultimately we descended +a few feet on the south-east side and then made our way along the face of +the slope in a south-westerly direction towards the hut on the Aiguille du +Midi. The snow was soft, and we went on for some distance without +difficulty, till we again reached the ridge on the south-west side of the +Aiguille, having thus passed round the base of the final peak of the +mountain, which consists of a comparatively small rocky cone jutting up +from the main ridge. We were still of course a long way from the hut, but +as in this situation we were much more sheltered, we took the opportunity +to review the state of affairs and to consider our position, which for the +moment, like that of the pocket of a lady’s ball dress, was indeterminate. +What were we to do? As with the diners at “Prix fixe” restaurant, there +were three courses for us: we might go down on one side, we might descend +on the other side, or we might remain where we were. The latter +alternative was as distasteful now as it had been just previously, and it +was negatived decisively. “Very good,” said the guides; “if you won’t stay +here we must go down that way,” and they pointed in a direction westerly +by the compass. My companion and I were opposed to this plan for two +reasons: one that the route would, if it led anywhere in particular, take +us down to the Glacier des Bossons, where we did not want to go, the other +that by reason of the marvellous fury of the hurricane it would have been +altogether impossible to follow at all the line indicated. We were only in +fact able to dart out from under shelter of the rock and peer down into +the misty depths for a few seconds at a time, for the gale took our breath +away as completely as in the “cavern of the winds” at Niagara. To have +climbed down a new and difficult rock cliff in the face of the numbing +cold would have been little short of suicidal. + +(M76) + +It is Artemus Ward, I think, who describes the ingenious manner in which +Baron Trenck, of prison-breaking fame, escaped on one occasion from +durance vile. For fifteen long years the Baron had lain immured, and had +tried in vain to carry out all the sensational methods of escape ever +suggesting themselves to his fertile brain. At last an idea occurred to +him. He opened the door and walked out. By an intellectual effort of +almost equal brilliancy and originality we solved the difficulty that +beset us: we turned towards the south-east and walked quietly down the +slope for a hundred feet or so. Simplicity of thought is characteristic of +great minds. Why, nevertheless, it had not occurred to us before to escape +by this line I can no more explain than I can give the reason why all the +ladies in a concert-room smile, as one woman, when a singer of their own +sex makes her appearance on the platform, or why itinerant harp players +always wear tall hats. Immediately the complexion of affairs brightened +up. The wind was much less furious than it had been on the ridge, and the +hail was replaced by snow. Jaun now gave it as his opinion that the best +line of descent would consist in crossing round the head of the Vallée +Blanche and the upper slopes of the Glacier du Géant, so as to join the +ordinary route leading from the Col du Géant to the Montanvert. But in the +thick mist it would have been far from easy to hit off the right track, +and we thought it possible to make a short cut to the same end, and to +find a way directly down the Vallée Blanche towards the rocks known as the +Petit Rognon. We had no compass with us, but the direction of the slope +indicated the proper line of descent to follow. In most years it would not +be easy to discover the way through the complicated crevasses of the +ice-fall situated between the “Rognon” and the easterly rocks of the +Aiguille du Midi; but in 18— so much snow had fallen early in the spring +and so little had melted during the summer, that we experienced +comparatively little difficulty in descending almost in a straight line. +During this part of the expedition the good qualities of our guides showed +once more to advantage. Unquestionably while on the ridge they had put +forward suggestions which were rather wild in character, and which were +proved now to be mistaken. The intense cold and the beating of the storm +seemed rather to have paralysed their usually calm judgment, and it is an +odd fact that guides, even when first rate, are oftentimes more affected +by such conditions than are the amateurs whom they conduct. We could no +more, with such experience as we possessed, have led the way aright as our +leader did with unerring sagacity, than an untutored person could write +out a full orchestra score. We could only insist on a given line being +taken if in their judgment it were possible. Once fairly started, we felt +that we must push our plan through, employing the same form of argument as +the man did in support of a bold statement that a certain beaver, closely +pursued by a dog, had climbed up a tree. It was not a question now whether +we could do it, or could not do it; we had to do it. The day was far +spent, there was possibly much difficult work before us, and the exertion +already undergone had been tolerably severe. The temptation was therefore +great rather to scamp the work of finding the best and safest track +through the ice-fall, but our leader displayed as much care and +thoroughness as if he were strolling over snow slopes with a critical +Chamouni guide behind him. A momentary glimpse of the familiar form of the +Aiguille du Géant right in front of us confirmed the judgment that we were +on the right track. In descending the ice-fall we passed to the right of +the Petit Rognon, and at the base of the Séracs halted and thought we +would have something to eat. Maurer produced our stock of provisions, +which consisted of one roll studded with little bits of broken glass and +reduced by the action of wine and water to the consistence of a poultice. +The refection was, therefore, as unsatisfactory as a meal out of a loosely +tied nosebag to a cab horse. And now for another departure from +time-honoured custom. All mountain narratives at this period of the day +make reference to the use of tobacco, the well-earned pipe, and so forth. +But the sleety rain, which for the last hour and a half had replaced the +snow, had soaked everything so thoroughly that an attempt to carry out the +orthodox proceeding did not, like most failures, end in smoke. So we +trudged on again empty and unsolaced. + +(M77) + +As the shades of night were falling, four dripping and woe-begone +travellers might, to borrow the novelist’s common mode of expression, have +been observed toiling up the steep path towards the old Montanvert +hotel—that is, they might have been observed by anybody who was foolish +enough to be out of doors on such a detestable evening. We entered the +familiar little room, an ingenious compound of a toyshop and a barrack, +and notwithstanding that we were viewed with marked disfavour by the other +guests therein assembled in consequence of our moist and steamy condition, +we seated ourselves and called for refreshment. The atmosphere in the +stuffy den called the salon was a trifle pungent, and having contributed a +little additional dampness to the apartment we set off again. That +familiar old room with its odd collection of curiosities, in which the +fare was on the whole more disproportionate to the price than at any other +institution of a similar kind in the mountains, has ceased to exist long +ago. I fancy that it did not require much pulling down. It is happily +replaced now by one of the best managed and most comfortable mountain +hotels to be found in the Alps, a sure sign of which attraction is to be +found in the fact that it is, at any rate, spoken of with disfavour by the +inhabitants of the village below or by such as do not hold shares. Another +hour’s descent and we passed through the few scattered houses just outside +Chamouni. The attractions on the way down had not diverted us from our +stern purpose of reaching Couttet’s hotel as soon as possible. We had +politely declined the invitation of a perennially knitting young woman to +view a live chamois. The spasmodic smile called up by each approaching +tourist faded from her countenance as we passed by. Four times did we +decline the gentle refreshment of _limonade gazeuse_, once did we sternly +refuse to partake of strawberries, and twice to purchase crystals. It was +dark as we neared the town; it may have been my fancy, but I cannot help +thinking that I perceived our old friend the blind beggar with the +lugubrious expression which he wore when on duty, and with the tall hat +which served the purpose of an alms’-box, and which he did not wear when +on duty, enjoying himself in a very merry manner by the side of a blazing +fire. Notwithstanding that night had fallen there was still a little group +by the bridge round the one-armed telescope man, anxiously crowding to +hear the last news of the two insane Englishmen who had without doubt +perished that day miserably on the rocks of the Midi. A project had +already been started to organise an expedition on the morrow to search for +the bodies; and we might very possibly, if we had cared for the +excitement, have been allowed to join the party. + +(M78) + +As in a play the most striking situation is by the discreet author +reserved to the conclusion, so in this contradictory chapter the most +glaring deficiency comes now at the end. My readers, if they have +generously followed me so far, will recognise that we not only went on +something of a fool’s errand, incurring considerable difficulty and +perhaps risk in that mission, but that we never got up the mountain at +all. The force of contradictoriness can no further go. Still, it may be +pointed out that we did actually accomplish all that was novel in the +expedition. Once on the ridge, the remaining portion of the climb is, in +fine weather, easy and well known, so the fact that the Aiguille du Midi +can be ascended by this line by any one consumed with an ambition to do +so, is beyond doubt. We were not probably at one point more than twenty +minutes or half an hour from the actual summit. I cannot honestly advise +anybody to follow our tracks; but in all probability, if someone should +desire to do so, he need not, under favourable conditions, contemplate +meeting with any unsurmountable difficulties. + + [Illustration: THE AIGUILLE DU DRU + FROM THE SOUTH] + + + + + + CHAPTER VI. + + + ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE DU DRU + + + “_Decies repetita placebit_” + + + Disadvantages of narratives of personal adventure—Expeditions on + the Aiguille du Dru in 1874—The ridge between the Aiguilles du Dru + and Verte—“Défendu de passer par là”—Distance lends + enchantment—Other climbers attack the peak—View of the mountain + from the Col de Balme—We try the northern side, and fail more + signally than usual—Showing that mountain fever is of the + recurrent type—We take seats below, but have no opportunity of + going up higher—The campaign opens—We go under canvas—A spasmodic + start, and another failure—A change of tactics and a new + leader—Our sixteenth attempt—Sports and pastimes at Chamouni—The + art of cray-fishing—The apparel oft proclaims the man—A canine + acquaintance—A new ally—The turning point of the expedition—A + rehearsal for the final performance—A difficult descent—A blank in + the narrative—A carriage misadventure—A penultimate failure—We + start with two guides and finish with one—The rocks of the + Dru—Maurer joins the party—Our nineteenth attempt—A narrow escape + in the gully—The arête at last—The final scramble—Our foe is + vanquished and decorated—The return journey—Benighted—A moonlight + descent—We are graciously received—On “fair” mountaineering—The + prestige of new peaks—Chamouni becomes festive—“Heut’ Abend + grosses Feuerwerkfest”—Chamouni dances and shows hospitality—The + scene closes in. + + +It is to some extent an unfortunate circumstance that in a personal +narrative of adventure the result is practically known from the very +beginning. The only uncertainty that can exist is the actual pattern on +which the links of the chain are united together, for the climax is from +the outset a foregone conclusion. The descriptive account will inevitably +conduct the reader along a more or less mazy path to an assured goal. +There is certainly one other variety, but that takes the less satisfactory +form of an obituary notice. Even in a thoroughly well-acted play a +perceptible shudder runs through the audience when two actors select each +a chair, draw them down to the footlights, and one announces “’Tis now +some fourteen years ago.” The expression in its pristine dramatic +simplicity may still be heard in transpontine theatres, but modern realism +insists usually on a paraphrase. The audience cannot but feel, however +thrilling the story to be told, that at any rate the two players have +survived the adventures they have to narrate, and on the whole a good many +wish they hadn’t. There sit the heroes, and exert themselves as they will +their recital is apt to fall somewhat flat. In like manner I will not +attempt to conceal the fact that the ultimate result of our numerous +attempts on the peak which forms the subject of this chapter was that we +got up it, and the fact may also be divulged that we came down again, and +in safety. Indeed, it seems difficult now to realise the length of time +during which our ultimate success oscillated in the balance—at one time +appearing hopeless, at another problematical, at times almost certain, and +then again apparently out of our reach. + +(M79) + +In 1874, with two guides, of whom Alexander Burgener was one, we started +for the Montanvert with the intention of making for the ridge between the +Aiguille du Dru and the Aiguille Verte, with the object of further +investigating the route which Messrs. Pendlebury, Kennedy and Marshall had +essayed on an occasion already described, when the bad condition of the +rocks frustrated their hopes. The mountain was probably in a very +different state on this occasion, and we experienced no very great +difficulty in discovering a fairly easy route up the rocks. The chief +trouble consisted in the fact that the rock gully by which the ascent is +chiefly made was extensively plastered over with ice, a condition in which +we nearly always found it. The last part of the climb up to the ridge +affords a most splendid scramble. The face is so steep on either side that +the climber comes quite suddenly to a position whence he overlooks the +northern slope, if slope it may be called, and looks down on to the +Glacier du Nant Blanc. Seen in grey shadow, or half shrouded in shifting +mists and coloured only with half-tints, the precipice is magnificent; +huge sheets of clear ice coat its flanks, and the almost unbroken descent +of rock affords as striking a spectacle as the mountaineer fond of wild +desolation can well picture. + + If you would see this slope aright, + Look at it by the pale grey light. + +On the left the mass of the Aiguille du Dru cuts off the view of the +fertile regions; far away on the right the huge tapering towers of rock +form a massive foreground stretching away to the base of the Aiguille +Verte. The spectator too seems strangely shut off, so that, gazing around, +on either side he can see but a narrow extent of the mountain. We looked +down and did not like what we saw; we looked up and liked it less. The day +was fine and the mountain in good condition. I can recall now that our +eyes must have wandered over the very route that ultimately proved to be +the right one, and yet to none of us that afternoon did it appear in the +least degree possible. Unquestionably the crags of the Aiguille du Dru +looked formidable enough from this point of view, and we could not but +think that nature must have provided some easier mode of access to the +summit than this face seemed to afford. We climbed along the ridge till we +were almost against the face of the mountain, but then we had to turn our +gaze so directly upwards that matters looked still worse. Then we faced +about and climbed in the other direction. The rocks seemed to grow bigger +and bigger the more we looked at them. What the guides actually thought I +do not quite know, but at the moment my own impression was that it would +be impossible to ascend more than two or three hundred feet: so we turned +and came back. Even while we yet descended the thought came that this face +of the mountain was perhaps not so utterly hopeless as it had appeared a +few minutes previously, and in my own mind I decided that, should we fail +in discovering some much more promising line from another point of view, +we would at least return to the ridge often enough to familiarise +ourselves with this aspect of the mountain, with the idea that such +familiarity if it did not succeed in breeding contempt might at least give +birth to a more sanguine frame of mind. The farther we got from our point +of view the more hopeful did the mental impression seem to become, and by +the time we reached Chamouni we had all separately arrived at the +conclusion—somewhat selfish perhaps, but justifiable under the +circumstances—that if asked what we thought of the possibility of +ascending by the face we had tried, we would give honestly the opinion we +had formed while on the ridge, and not the opinion at which we had arrived +subsequently. + +(M80) + +Other explorers were meanwhile at work on the mountain, but so far as I +could learn all their attempts were made on the south-western peak. At any +rate they followed more or less the line we had first struck out. Some +thought that the lower peak alone was feasible, others that the higher +peak was attainable only from the south-western side. So thought Mr. E. R. +Whitwell; so again, Mr. J. Birkbeck, jun., both of whom reached probably a +much higher point on the south-western face than we succeeded in obtaining +in 1873. + +In 1875 we were making our way once more by the Col de Balme to Chamouni, +and being in somewhat of a reflective mood, induced by the consumption of +a soup-tureen full of bread and milk at the hotel at the top of the pass, +we sought a shady spot hard by whence a good view of the Aiguille du Dru +could be obtained, and contemplated the precipices as seen from this point +of view. The northern slope leading up to the ridge over which we had +looked lay well before us. The upper part of the mountain looked +distinctly different as far as accessibility was concerned. It seemed just +possible, if a way could only be found up from the level of the ridge to a +certain ledge some distance above, that the final mass might be feasible. +There appeared to be a sort of gully sloping upwards in a direction curved +away from us, in which the snow lay so thick that the rocks on either side +could not, we thought, be very steep. At the least it seemed to be worth +our while to make for this gully, which was obviously unattainable from +the ridge itself, for it was here cut off by a belt of straight rock. + +(M81) + +A few days later we carried the idea into effect. It was necessary to +engage some one to carry the tent, and Burgener was deputed to search for +a porter of a willing disposition and suitable physical conformation. +Presently he came back in company with a shambling youth of great length +of limb and somewhat lanky frame. We inquired if he were willing to come +with us, whereupon the young man was seized with violent facial +contortions, and we perceived that he suffered from an impediment in his +speech. Not wishing to render him nervous by our presence, we took a short +turn in the garden, leaving him where he stood. On our return the young +man’s efforts culminated in the remark, “How much?” We said, “Twenty-five +francs,” and then started off to consult the barometer. On coming back +after this interval we found that the young man had just previously +succeeded in articulating “Yes.” The practical result of this one-sided +colloquy was that the next day the tall young man was laden with the tent, +with directions to carry it up to a point immediately opposite the +Montanvert below the Glacier du Nant Blanc. The tall young man shouldered +his burden and started off with great activity. We followed him somewhat +later under the rather transparent pretence of going to hunt for crystals +next day. Making our way up by a long ridge lying between the Glacier du +Nant Blanc and a little snow patch dignified in some maps by the +appellation of the Glacier du Dru, we skirted round the base of the +Aiguille looking constantly upwards to find some practicable line of +ascent, and hoping that we might discover one which would conduct us up on +to the main mass of the mountain before we had got opposite to the point +by which we had made our ascent from the southern side. It soon became +evident that we were very unlikely to find a way. Far above jutted out a +little horizontal table of rock. Burgener observed that if we could only +get there it would be something. So far his remarks did not appear +inaccurate, but it was perfectly clear before long that there was no +chance of getting any higher, supposing we could get on to this platform; +yet a little further, and we perceived that we could not even get to it. +Ultimately we discovered that the platform itself was an optical delusion. +It did not seem worth while to make any attempt to reach the summit of the +ridge from the side we were on, even if we could have done so, which I +doubt. The day may come when the climber will seek to discover some +variation to the route up the peak; but mountaineering skill will indeed +have improved out of all knowledge if anyone ever succeeds in getting up +this northern face. From every point of view we surveyed it, and from +every point of view, in our opinion, it was equally impossible. So in the +evening we came back once more to the tent, from the door of which +protruded a pair of thick boots. These encased the feet articulated to the +lanky legs of the tall young man, who had been enjoying a siesta of some +ten or twelve hours’ duration. Kicking gently at a prominent bulging of +the canvas on the opposite side to the door had the effect of waking our +slumbrous friend, who was exceedingly sarcastic at our want of success; +so, at least, we judged by his expression of countenance. For a long while +his efforts yielded no verbal result. But his words seemed as it were to +stick fast in an endeavour to bring them out three or four abreast through +a portal that was capable only of allowing egress to them in single file. +Of a sudden the jostling syllables broke down the obstructing barrier, and +he startled us by pouring forth a string of remarks with precipitate +volubility. Knowing, however, that it would be some time before we could +hope to try the peak again, we were not loth to leave him under the +impression, to be communicated to his friends at Chamouni, that we had +come to the conclusion that the mountain was inaccessible. + +(M82) + +It was not till 1878 that we were able to revisit once more the scene of +our many failures. + +During the winter months, however, the thought of the stubborn Aiguille +had been from time to time discussed, and when J. Oakley Maund and I came +back to Chamouni we had very serious intentions. This time we were both +possessed with one fixed determination with regard to the Aiguille. Either +we would get up to the top or, at the worst, would, as far as lay in our +power, prove that it was inaccessible by any line of attack. By my wish, +our first attempts were to be made by the old route leading towards the +lower peak; not that we were very sanguine of succeeding by this line of +ascent, but rather because we felt that no very great amount of +exploration would be necessary to determine whether the higher point could +or could not be reached from this side; but though our intentions were +good we were scarcely prepared for the difficulties that met us from the +beginning. The elements seemed to have set their faces against us. Time +after time when all was ready for a start we were baulked by snow, wind, +or rain. Day after day we sat waiting in vain for the favourable moment, +sometimes at our bivouac high up above the Mer de Glace, by the side of +the Glacier de la Charpoua, till hope deferred and a series of _table +d’hôte_ dinners combined with want of exercise to make the heart sick and +the individual despondently dyspeptic. Perhaps the wind would shift round +a point or two towards the north and a couple of fine days occur. +Straightway we set off for the tent which we left concealed at the +bivouac. Then came the rain again, and we had to return soaked and +dejected. Sometimes it rained before we got to the Montanvert and +sometimes after, and in fact we seemed to be making perpetually fitful +excursions from the kitchen fire at the Montanvert to that at Couttet’s +hotel. On hydropathic principles we found the state of the elements no +mean form of cure for the mountain fever. Still, like the hungry butler, +we reflected that everything comes to him who waits, and seizing every +possible opportunity did manage to achieve some climbing during the rare +intervals of moderately favourable weather. + +(M83) + +The campaign was opened with an attempt made with Jaun and Andreas Maurer +as guides. A youth of hollow visage and weak joints (a relation, possibly, +of our friend with the one defective articulation), who did not much enter +into the spirit of the expedition, and who seemed by his expression to +echo Hamlet’s interrogation as to the necessity of bearing fardels, +carried our tent up to the grass slopes by the Charpoua glacier. Here, on +a smooth, level patch of turf surrounded on three sides by rocks, we +established a little country seat, though we scarcely realised on this +first occasion how often it would be our lot to run up and spend the night +there, and to return to town the following morning. There are many and +excellent camping places about these slopes; dry dwarf rhododendron bushes +abound, and water is plentiful. There was no difficulty in rising early +the next morning, for at some time in the small hours the spindle-legged +porter was seized with terrible cramp. Under ordinary circumstances his +lower limbs were imperfectly under his control, and when thus affected +they became perfectly ungovernable, so that the neat order in which we had +disposed ourselves overnight for slumber was rudely disarranged, and we +were forced to rise and turn out till the spasms should have subsided. +Under the influence of gentle friction the spasms quieted down, and when +we left he was troubled only with a few twitching kicks, such as may be +observed in a dreaming dog. At 2 A.M. we started and wended our way up the +glacier, every step of which seemed familiar. To our surprise and delight +the snow was in first-rate order, and our spirits rose at the prospect of +a good climb; but the time had not yet come for success, and our hopes +were soon to be dashed. There was still an immense amount of snow on the +lower rock slopes over which access to the south-western peak is alone +possible, and this snow was in a highly treacherous condition. Before we +had ascended many feet the guides very properly refused to go on, a +determination with which we felt ourselves bound to acquiesce. They +pointed out that it would be unwarrantably dangerous to descend late in +the afternoon over deep snow, soft, and but loosely adhering to the rocks. +Under such conditions it is of course impossible to judge of the foothold, +and there is nothing to hold on to with the hands. There was no other +alternative, therefore, if we were to follow this route, than to wait till +more of the snow should have melted, or else to find a track where the +rocks were bare. As far as we could ascertain, however, there was no such +track to be seen. We decided to go back, but still remained at Chamouni, +for we durst not lose a single favourable opportunity. With an +imperturbability bred of long experience did we meet the sniggers and +sneers of certain croakers below, who looked with an unfavourable eye on +our proceedings. + +(M84) + +Within the next fortnight we made two further attempts by much the same +route and with the same guides, but only succeeded in going far enough to +prove that the opinion of the guides was perfectly correct with regard to +the state of the snow. Already matters seemed to justify some gloomy doubt +as to whether we could carry out even the exploratory part of our +programme, for Jaun was compelled to leave us in order to fulfil another +engagement, and we scarcely knew where to turn to find another man capable +of guiding us in the way we desired to go. Still our determination was +unshaken by our run of ill-luck. We would not give it up. With no more +definite object than that of justifying an impending _table d’hôte_ +dinner, I was walking up the Montanvert path one rainy afternoon, when a +ray of sunlight suddenly burst upon me in the person of Alexander +Burgener. He had come over the Col du Géant with a party of travellers, +and to our delight was not only disengaged, but exceedingly anxious to +attack once more, or, in fact, as often as we liked, the obstinate +Aiguille. From the moment that he assumed the chief command matters began +to wear a different complexion, for we learnt that he had taken every +opportunity to consider and study the mountain. By his advice a complete +change of tactics was adopted. We decided to abandon all idea of attacking +the lower peak, and made up our minds to try the higher summit by the +route we had first followed four years previously. We had often discussed +together our chances of success on this peak, and had often come to the +conclusion that its ascent was more than doubtful. But now Burgener was so +positive of ultimate triumph, and so confident in his own powers, not only +of getting up himself, but of getting us also to our goal, that the whole +matter seemed placed before us in a different light. We might have to +wait, we might have to try many times, but still we could not but believe +the impression that now gradually formed that we must ultimately succeed. +To the spirit which Burgener displayed that year, and which he imbued in +us (at a time when it must be confessed that such a spirit was much +wanted, for we were as downcast as water-cure patients during the +process), and to his sagacity and great guiding qualities, the whole of +our ultimate success was due. I knew that, as a guide, he was immeasurably +superior to an amateur in his trained knack of finding the way, and that +in quickness on rocks the two could hardly be compared. But previously it +had always seemed to me that the amateur excelled in one great requisite, +viz., pluck. Let this record show that in one instance at least this +estimate was erroneous, for had it not been for Burgener’s indomitable +pluck we should never have succeeded in climbing the Aiguille du Dru. + +(M85) + +Burgener was of opinion that from the summit of the actual ridge lying +east of the higher peak, and between it and the Aiguille Verte, it was not +feasible to ascend on to the face of the mountain, and he proposed +accordingly that we should commence by making a study of the rocks lying +to the left of the main gully running up to this same ridge, endeavouring +if possible to discover some point where we could bear off to the left on +to the real mass of the mountain. In addition he pointed out that the +upper rocks might be very difficult and require much time (as we had +already agreed together in previous years that they were altogether +impossible, this remark seemed probable enough), and it was important +therefore to discover the easiest and quickest way up the lower part of +the rock slopes. Accordingly we departed—and this was our sixteenth +attempt—from the Montanvert one morning at 1 A.M. We had long since +cultivated a manner of going about our business in such a way as to avoid +the gaze of the curious, and set forth on this occasion in much the same +spirit that burglars adopt when on evil errands intent. The day was +entirely spent as agreed in studying the lower rocks and working out +accurately the most feasible line of assault. But though we ascended on +this occasion to no very great height we were perpetually engaged in +climbing, and the quantity of snow which still lay on the rocks rendered +progress difficult and care necessary. Still it was no haphazard +exploration that we were engaged in, and the spirit of deliberation in +which we began begat a spirit of hopefulness as we went on. A fancied +insufficiency of guiding strength, coupled with a decidedly insufficient +supply of rope and an inherent idea that the new line of assault +contemplated was not to be worked out to an end at the first attempt, all +combined to drive us back to Chamouni late the same evening. + +(M86) + +_Après cela le déluge_, and for a long time high mountaineering of any +description was out of the question. Desperate were the attempts we made +to amuse ourselves, and to while away the time. Sports and pastimes within +the limited area of the hotel premises were the fashion for a time. The +courtyard in front of Couttet’s hotel was made into a lawn-tennis ground. +The village stores being ransacked yielded a limited supply of +parti-coloured india-rubber balls; the village carpenter constructed bats +out of flat pieces of wood, and we sought to forget the unpropitious +elements by playing morning, noon, and night. As a result several windows +and a lamp were reduced to ruin. Then we went a-crayfishing. A basket +carriage, which was constructed apparently of iron sheeting, but painted +over with a wicker-work pattern in order to deceive a flea-bitten grey +steed of great age with the impression that it was very light, conveyed us +to Châtelard, which by a twofold inaccuracy was termed the fishing-ground, +our object being to catch animals which were not fish and lived in water. +There the sport began, and was conducted on this wise. Sticks with a cleft +at the end, into which nondescript pieces of ill-smelling meat were +wedged, were submerged in a little brook to tempt the prey, but the only +bites we got were from the horse-flies and inflicted on our own persons; +howbeit, one or two of the party when at a distance from their +fellow-sportsmen averred that they had been on a point of catching +monsters of the deep the size of lobsters. We did not discover till +subsequently that, led astray by a plausible peasant possessed of riparian +rights and untruthful propensities, we had been fishing (or +“crustaceaning,” to speak correctly) all day in a stream untenanted by any +crayfish whatever, the result being that we caught a chill and nothing +else. The ancient steed, moreover, though he bowled along merrily enough +down the hill to Châtelard and required no more stimulus than an +occasional chirrup from the driver afforded, was yet very loth to draw the +party back up the hill at the same pace, and required such constant +stimulation of a more active kind on the way back that it was found +necessary before we reached the village to stop and smooth out the creases +on his sides. The next day the report came that the spotted grey was “très +malade,” and the next day too my right arm was excessively stiff. + +A subsequent sporting expedition yielded happier results. One of the +party, gifted with diplomatic talents and a power of detecting the +vulnerable points in the character of the natives, purchased, for the sum +of one franc, information from a shockheaded juvenile suffering from a +skin eruption as to the best stocked streams. Then did the deep yield up +its carnivorous denizens. Artfully and in silence did the anglers wait for +their prey to claw the reeking bait. Deftly and warily did they withdraw +the rod, sometimes with two or three victims clinging in a bunch, and land +the spoil on the bank. Then would the crayfish loosen their hold, roll +over on their backs, flap their tails very briskly, and start off with +amazing rapidity for short country walks, speedily to be captured and +consigned to the recesses of a receptacle, bearing a suspicious +resemblance to Madame Couttet’s work-basket. Ultimately they formed the +basis of a “bisque” not unworthy of Brébant. + +(M87) + +What time the india-rubber balls were all burst and the fishing-ground had +lost its attraction, seated on a tilted chair beneath the verandah we fell +a-musing and studied human nature, and the various types that presented +day after day round and about the hotel. Much was there to marvel at in +many of the costumes, to many of which the late Mr. Planché himself would +have been unable to assign a date. It has been noticed of course, times +out of mind, as a characteristic of the Briton, that a costume in which he +would not go coal-heaving at home is considered good enough for Sunday in +the Alps. One gentleman indeed, whose own apparel would have been +considered untidy even if he had been a member of a shipwrecked crew, had +been enlarging on this topic with much fervour, to a select audience, +dwelling especially on the discourtesy thus shown to the natives of the +country. I looked, when Sunday came, that he should be clad in raiment of +more than ordinary fitness and splendour, but the only changes that I +could perceive from the week-day vesture consisted in a tall hat, which +somebody had mistaken for an opera hat on some occasion, and a long strip +of rag wound round a cut finger, while his wife, who had recently been on +the glaciers, appeared in a low cut dress, so that she presented a curious +piebald appearance. The lateness of the season may have accounted for the +fact that many of the garments seemed rapidly to be resolving into their +pristine condition of warp and woof, especially about the region where it +is usual in the Alps to light the poison-darting lucifer matches of the +country. There were flannel shirts with collars on some, and flannel +shirts without them on others, while yet a third set wore white chokers +round their necks made of vulcanite, so that they looked like favourite +pug-dogs, or fashioned of a shiny paper, which obviously had no more to do +with the garment with which they were temporarily associated than the +label of an expensive wine at a second-rate restaurant has to do with the +contents of the bottle. Then we fell to anatomical study, and marvelled at +the various imperfections of development the muscle known to the learned +as the gastrocnemius(4) could exhibit in the legs of our countrymen, and +wondered why they took such pains in their costume to display its usually +unsymmetrical proportions, and wondered too if they really believed that a +double folding back of the upper part of the stocking below the +knickerbocker deceived anyone with an appearance of mighty thews. Then we +went off and tapped the barometer, which was as devoid of principle as a +bone setter, and kept on persistently rising. We made friends with a +little stray waif of a dog of obsequious demeanour and cringing +disposition, prone to roll over on its back when spoken to, thereby +displaying a curiously speckled stomach, but which was withal inclined to +be amiable, and wagged its tail so vigorously on being noticed that I +quite feared it might sustain a sprain at the root of that appendage. But +our friendship was short-lived. Before long our little friend found an +acquaintance in the shape of a small semi-shaved mongrel with a tail like +a stalk of asparagus run to seed. After a little preliminary walking about +on tiptoe, friendly overtures were made. The game commenced by the +playmates licking each others’ noses; next they ran round with surprising +rapidity in very small circles, and then fell to wrestling in the middle +of the courtyard. These canine acquaintanceships always end in the same +way. Before long a sudden, sharp squeak was heard, and the last I saw of +my little friend was a vanishing form darting round the nearest corner, +with his tail as much between his legs as the excessive shortness of that +excrescence would permit. His playmate, somewhat disturbed for a moment by +this abrupt termination of the acquaintanceship, gazed pensively, with +ears erect, for a while in the direction in which his friend had vanished: +then investigated two or three unimportant objects by the sense of smell, +consumed a few blades of grass, yawned twice, stretched himself once, +rolled on something which had puzzled him, and retired to repose at a +little distance to await the expected medicinal effects of the herb of +which he had partaken. + +(M88) + +This is a true saying, that “There’s small choice in rotten apples,” and a +description of boredom in one place is much like the same in another. +Gradually, weariness of the flesh below in the valley became almost +intolerable, while we were longing for an opportunity to weary the flesh, +in another way, on the mountain. Ultimately, to my infinite regret, Maund +found himself obliged to depart to fulfil an engagement elsewhere, but I +still held on, though the conviction was daily becoming stronger that the +rain would go on till the winter snows came. + +(M89) + +On a mountain such as we knew the Aiguille du Dru to be it would not have +been wise to make any attempt with a party of more than four. No doubt +three—that is, an amateur with two guides—would have been better still, +but I had, during the enforced inaction through which we had been passing, +become so convinced of ultimate success that I was anxious to find a +companion to share it. Fortunately, J. Walker Hartley, a highly skilful +and practised mountaineer, was at Chamouni, and it required but little +persuasion to induce him to join our party. Seizing an opportunity one +August day when the rain had stopped for a short while, we decided to try +once more, or at any rate to see what effects the climatic phases through +which we had been passing had produced on the Aiguille. With Alexander +Burgener and Andreas Maurer still as guides we ascended once again the +slopes by the side of the Charpoua glacier, and succeeded in discovering a +still more eligible site for a bivouac than on our previous attempts. A +little before four the next morning we extracted each other from our +respective sleeping bags, and made our way rapidly up the glacier. The +snow still lay thick everywhere on the rocks, which were fearfully cold +and glazed with thin layers of slippery ice; but our purpose was very +serious that day, and we were not to be deterred by anything short of +unwarrantable risk. We intended the climb to be merely one of exploration, +but were resolved to make it as thorough as possible, and with the best +results. From the middle of the slope leading up to the ridge the guides +went on alone while we stayed to inspect and work out bit by bit the best +routes over such parts of the mountain as lay within view. In an hour or +two Burgener and Maurer came back to us, and the former invited me to go +on with him back to the point from which he had just descended. His +invitation was couched in gloomy terms, but there was a twinkle at the +same time in his eye which it was easy to interpret—_ce n’est que l’œil +qui rit_. We started off and climbed without the rope up the way which was +now so familiar, but which on this occasion, in consequence of the glazed +condition of the rocks, was as difficult as it could well be; but for a +growing conviction that the upper crags were not so bad as they looked we +should scarcely have persevered. “Wait a little,” said Burgener, “I will +show you something presently.” We reached at last a great knob of rock +close below the ridge, and for a long time sat a little distance apart +silently staring at the precipices of the upper peak. I asked Burgener +what it might be that he had to show me. He pointed to a little crack some +way off, and begged that I would study it, and then fell again to gazing +at it very hard himself. Though we scarcely knew it at the time, this was +the turning point of our year’s climbing. Up to that moment I had only +felt doubts as to the inaccessibility of the mountain. Now a certain +feeling of confident elation began to creep over me. The fact is, that we +gradually worked ourselves up into the right mental condition, and the +aspect of a mountain varies marvellously according to the beholder’s frame +of mind. These same crags had been by each of us independently, at one +time or another, deliberately pronounced impossible. They were in no +better condition that day than usual, in fact in much worse order than we +had often seen them before. Yet, notwithstanding that good judges had +ridiculed the idea of finding a way up the precipitous wall, the prospect +looked different that day as turn by turn we screwed our determination up +to the sticking point. Here and there we could clearly trace short bits of +practicable rock ledges along which a man might walk, or over which at any +rate he might transport himself, while cracks and irregularities seemed to +develop as we looked. Gradually, uniting and communicating passages +appeared to form. Faster and faster did our thoughts travel, and at last +we rose and turned to each other. The same train of ideas had +independently been passing through our minds. Burgener’s face flushed, his +eyes brightened, and he struck a great blow with his axe as we exclaimed +almost together, “It must, and it shall be done!” + +(M90) + +The rest of the day was devoted to bringing down the long ladder, which +had previously been deposited close below the summit of the ridge, to a +point much lower and nearer to the main peak. This ladder had not hitherto +been of the slightest assistance on the rocks, and had indeed proved a +source of constant anxiety and worry, for it was ever prone to precipitate +its lumbering form headlong down the slope. We had, it is true, used it +occasionally on the glacier to bridge over the crevasses, and had saved +some time thereby. Still we were loth to discard its aid altogether, and +accordingly devoted much time and no little exertion to hauling it about +and fixing it in a place of security. It was late in the evening before we +had made all our preparations for the next assault and turned to the +descent, which proved to be exceedingly difficult on this occasion. The +snow had become very soft during the day; the late hour and the melting +above caused the stones to fall so freely down the gully that we gave up +that line of descent and made our way over the face. Often, in travelling +down, we were buried up to the waist in soft snow overlying rock slabs, of +which we knew no more than that they were very smooth and inclined at a +highly inconvenient angle. It was imperative for one only to move at a +time, and the perpetual roping and unroping was most wearisome. In one +place it was necessary to pay out 150 feet of rope between one position of +comparative security and the one next below it, till the individual who +was thus lowered looked like a bait at the end of a deep sea line. One +step and the snow would crunch up in a wholesome manner and yield firm +support. The next, and the leg plunged in as far as it could reach, while +the submerged climber would, literally, struggle in vain to collect +himself. Of course those above, to whom the duty of paying out the rope +was entrusted, would seize the occasion to jerk as violently at the cord +as a cabman does at his horse’s mouth when he has misguided the animal +round a corner. Now another step and a layer of snow not more than a foot +deep would slide off with a gentle hiss, exposing bare, black ice beneath, +or treacherous loose stones. Nor were our difficulties at an end when we +reached the foot of the rocks, for the head of the glacier had fallen away +from the main mass of the mountain, even as an ill-constructed bow window +occasionally dissociates itself from the façade of a jerry-built villa, +and some very complicated manœuvring was necessary in order to reach the +snow slopes. It was not till late in the evening that we reached Chamouni; +but it would have mattered nothing to us even had we been benighted, for +we had seen all that we had wanted to see, and I would have staked my +existence now on the possibility of ascending the peak. But the moment was +not yet at hand, and our fortress held out against surrender to the very +last by calling in its old allies, sou’westerly winds and rainy weather. +The whirligig of time had not yet revolved so as to bring us in our +revenge. + + * * * * * * * * + +(M91) + +Perhaps the monotonous repetition of failures on the peak influences my +recollection of what took place subsequently to the expedition last +mentioned. Perhaps (as I sometimes think even now) an intense desire to +accomplish our ambition ripened into a realisation of actual occurrences +which really were only efforts of imagination. This much I know, that when +on September 7 we sat once more round a blazing wood fire at the familiar +bivouac gazing pensively at the crackling fuel, it seemed hard to persuade +one’s-self that so much had taken place since our last attempt. Leaning +back against the rock and closing the eyes for a moment it seemed but a +dream, whose reality could be disproved by an effort of the will, that we +had gone to Zermatt in a storm and hurried back again in a drizzle on +hearing that some other climbers were intent on our peak; that we had left +Chamouni in rain and tried, for the seventeenth time, in a tempest; that +matters had seemed so utterly hopeless, seeing that the season was far +advanced and the days but short, as to induce me to return to England, +leaving minute directions that if the snow should chance to melt and the +weather to mend I might be summoned back at once; that after +eight-and-forty hours of sojourn in the fogs of my native land an +intimation had come by telegraph of glad tidings; that I had posted off +straightway by _grande vitesse_ back to Chamouni; that I had arrived there +at four in the morning, in consequence of a little misadventure, which may +be here parenthetically narrated. + +(M92) + +The afternoon diligence from Geneva did not go beyond Sallanches. However, +an ingenious young man of low commercial morality, who said that he had a +remarkable horse and a super-excellent carriage, was persuaded to drive me +on the remainder of the way to Chamouni. The young man, observing that he +had been very busy of late and had not been to bed for two nights (nor had +he, as might be judged, washed or tidied himself since last he sought +repose), took a very hearty drink out of a tumbler and climbed on to an +eminence like a long-legged footstool, which it appeared was the box seat. +With much cracking of whips and various ill-tempered remarks to his horse +we started with success, aided by the efforts of a well-meaning person +(judging by the way in which he wore his braces loosely encircling his +waist, devoted to the tending of horses), who, to oblige his friend the +driver, ran suddenly at the slothful animal in the shafts and punched the +beast very heartily in the ribs with his fist. Before we had gone a mile +our troubles began. The coachman’s ill-humour subsided, it is true, but +only in consequence of Nature’s soft nurse weighing his eyelids down. +Accordingly I got out my axe and poked him in the back when he curled up +under the influence of his fatigue. This made him swear a good deal, but +for a time the device was successful enough. Gradually the monotonous +jangling of the harness bells induced a somnolent disposition in me too, +and I conceived then the brilliant idea, as we were ascending the long +hill near St. Gervais at a walk, of planting the head of the axe against +my own chest and arranging the weapon in such a way that the spike was in +close contact with the small of the driver’s back, so that when he fell +back it would run into him. Of a sudden I opened my eyes to find that the +jangling had ceased and the carriage stopped. We were undoubtedly at +Chamouni, and the journey was at an end. Such, however, was not quite the +case. As a matter of fact, we were not 200 yards further up the hill, the +horse was peacefully grazing by the roadside, and the young man had eluded +my artful contrivance by falling forwards off the box, where he lay +crumpled up into a shapeless heap, peacefully asleep, entangled between +the shafts, the traces, the splinter bar, and the horse’s tail. + +I rubbed my eyes and forced away by an effort the confused jumble and +whirl of thoughts that were crowding through the brain. It was not the +sound of the parting farewell as the diligence lumbered away from +Chamouni, nor the slow heavy clank of the railway carriages as they +entered the station, nor the voices of the railway porters that rang in my +ears. Voices there were, but they were familiar. I started up and looked +around. Surely that was the familiar outline of the Aiguille du Dru clear +and bright above; surely that was Hartley (occupied for the moment in +mollifying the effects of sunburn by anointing his face with the contents +of a little squeeze-bottle), and there was Burgener; but what was this +untidy, sleeping mass at our feet? Gradually it dawned upon me that I was +but inverting a psychological process and trying to make a dream out of a +reality. Hartley was there; Burgener was there; and the uncomely bundle +was the outward form of the most incompetent guide in all the Alps. It was +not till next day that we learnt that this creature had previously +distinguished himself by utter imbecility in a difficult ascent up the +north face of the Zermatt Breithorn, nor did we till the next day fully +realise how bad a guide a man ranking as such might be. We kicked him in a +suitable place and he awoke; then he made the one true remark that during +our acquaintance with him he was heard to utter. He said he had been drunk +the day before; with this he relapsed, and during the remainder of the +time he was with us gave expression to nothing but whining complaints and +inaccurate statements. + +(M93) + +From four in the morning of the next day till seven in the evening, when +we reached our bivouac again, we were climbing without intermission; not +that our imbecile friend took any very active share in the day’s +amusement. He was roped as last man in the caravan, and Hartley had to +drag him up the glacier. He was as slow of foot as he was of +understanding, and took no interest in the expedition. Twice we pointed +out to him half-hidden crevasses and begged that he would be careful. +Twice did he acknowledge our courtesy by disappearing abruptly into the +snowy depths. Then he favoured us with a short biographical sketch of his +wife, her attributes, and her affection for himself: he narrated the chief +characteristics of his children, and dilated on the responsible position +that as father of a family (probably all crétins, if there be any truth in +the hereditary transmission of parental qualities) he considered that he +occupied. Finally, as he appeared disposed to give us at length a memoir +of his grandfather deceased, we decided to unrope him and let him have his +own way in peace. For seven hours did he crouch under a little rock, not +daring to move either up or down, or even to take the knapsack off his +back. + +For the first time on this occasion did we succeed in climbing on to the +main peak well above the level of the ridge we had so often reached, by +means of leaving the gully at a much earlier point than usual. We followed +the exact line that we had marked out mentally on the last occasion. At +first progress was easy, but we could only make our way very slowly, +seeing that we had but one short rope and only one guide; for we had +injudiciously left the longer spare rope with our feeble-minded guide +below, and no shouts or implorations could induce him to make his way up +to us, nor had we leisure to go down to him; so we had to make the best of +matters as they were. We soon found a place where the ladder might be of +service, and spent some time in placing it in a position in which it +remains I believe till this day. + +Now, personal considerations had to a great extent to be lost sight of in +the desire to make the most of the day, and the result was that Hartley +must have had a very bad time of it. Unfortunately perhaps for him he was +by far the lightest member of the party; accordingly we argued that he was +far less likely to break the rickety old ladder than we were. Again, as +the lightest weight, he was most conveniently lowered down first over +awkward places when they occurred. + +(M94) + +In the times which are spoken of as old, and which have also, for some not +very definable reason, the prefix good, if you wanted your chimneys swept +you did not employ an individual now dignified by the title of a Ramoneur, +but you adopted the simpler plan of calling in a master sweep. This person +would come attended by a satellite, who wore the outward form of a boy and +was gifted with certain special physical attributes. Especially was it +necessary that the boy should be of such a size and shape as to fit nicely +to the chimney, not so loosely on the one hand as to have any difficulty +in ascending by means of his knees and elbows, nor so tightly on the other +as to run any peril of being wedged in. The boy was then inserted into the +chimney and did all the work, while the master remained below or sat +expectant on the roof to encourage, to preside over, and subsequently to +profit by, his apprentice’s exertions. We adopted much the same principle. +Hartley, as the lightest, was cast for the _rôle_ of the “jeune premier” +or boy, while Burgener and I on physical grounds alone filled the part, +however unworthily, of the master sweep. As a play not infrequently owes +its success to one actor, so did our “jeune premier,” sometimes very +literally, pull us through on the present occasion. Gallantly indeed did +he fulfil his duty. Whether climbing up a ladder slightly out of the +perpendicular, leaning against nothing in particular and with overhanging +rocks above; whether let down by a rope tied round his waist, so that he +dangled like the sign of the “Golden Fleece” outside a haberdasher’s shop, +or hauled up smooth slabs of rock with his raiment in an untidy heap +around his neck; in each and all of these exercises he was equally at +home, and would be let down or would come up smiling. One place gave us +great difficulty. An excessively steep wall of rock presented itself and +seemed to bar the way to a higher level. A narrow crack ran some little +way up the face, but above the rock was slightly overhanging, and the +water trickling from some higher point had led to the formation of a huge +bunch of gigantic icicles, which hung down from above. It was necessary to +get past these, but impossible to cut them away, as they would have fallen +on us below. Burgener climbed a little way up the face, planted his back +against it, and held on to the ladder in front of him, while I did the +same just below: by this means we kept the ladder almost perpendicular, +but feared to press the highest rung heavily against the icicles above +lest we should break them off. We now invited Hartley to mount up. For the +first few steps it was easy enough; but the leverage was more and more +against us as he climbed higher, seeing that he could not touch the rock, +and the strain on our arms below was very severe. However, he got safely +to the top and disappeared from view. The performance was a brilliant one, +but, fortunately, had not to be repeated; as on a subsequent occasion, by +a deviation of about fifteen or twenty feet, we climbed to the same spot +in a few minutes with perfect ease and without using any ladder at all. On +this occasion, however, we must have spent fully an hour while Hartley +performed his feats, which were not unworthy of a Japanese acrobat. Every +few feet of the mountain at this part gave us difficulty, and it was +curious to notice how, on this the first occasion of travelling over the +rock face, we often selected the wrong route in points of detail. We +ascended from twenty to fifty feet, then surveyed right and left, up and +down, before going any further. The minutes slipped by fast, but I have no +doubt now that if we had had time we might have ascended to the final +arête on this occasion. We had often to retrace our steps, and whenever we +did so found some slightly different line by which time could have been +saved. Though the way was always difficult nothing was impossible, and +when the word at last was given, owing to the failing light, to descend, +we had every reason to be satisfied with the result of the day’s +exploration. There seemed to be little doubt that we had traversed the +most difficult part of the mountain, and, indeed, we found on a later +occasion, with one or two notable exceptions, that such was the case. + +(M95) + +However, at the time we did not think that, even if it were possible, it +would be at all advisable to make our next attempt without a second guide. +A telegram had been sent to Kaspar Maurer, instructing him to join us at +the bivouac with all possible expedition. The excitement was thus kept up +to the very last, for we knew not whether the message might have reached +him, and the days of fine weather were precious. + +It was late in the evening when we reached again the head of the glacier, +and the point where we had left the feeble creature who had started with +us as a second guide. On beholding us once more he wept copiously, but +whether his tears were those of gratitude for release from the cramped +position in which he had spent his entire day, or of joy at seeing us safe +again, or whether they were the natural overflow of an imbecile intellect +stirred by any emotion whatever, it were hard to say; at any rate he wept, +and then fell to a description of some interesting details concerning the +proper mode of bringing up infants, and the duties of parents towards +their children: the most important of which, in his estimation, was that +the father of a family should run no risk whatever on a mountain. Reaching +our bivouac, we looked anxiously down over the glacier for any signs of +Kaspar Maurer. Two or three parties were seen crawling homewards towards +the Montanvert over the ice-fields, but no signs of our guide were +visible. As the shades of night, however, were falling, we were able +indistinctly to see in the far-off distance a little black dot skipping +over the Mer de Glace with great activity. Most eagerly did we watch the +apparition, and when finally it headed in our direction and all doubt was +removed as to the personality, we felt that our constant ill-luck was at +last on the eve of changing. However, it was not till two days later that +we left Chamouni once more for the nineteenth and, as it proved, for the +last time to try the peak. + +(M96) + +On September 11, we sat on the rocks a few feet above the camping-place. +Never before had we been so confident of success. The next day’s climb was +no longer to be one of exploration. We were to start as early as the light +would permit, and we were to go up and always up, if necessary till the +light should fail. Possibly we might have succeeded long before if we had +had the same amount of determination to do so that we were possessed with +on this occasion. We had made up our minds to succeed, and felt as if all +our previous attempts had been but a sort of training for this special +occasion. We had gone so far as to instruct our friends below to look out +for us on the summit between twelve and two the next day. We had even gone +to the length of bringing a stick wherewith to make a flag-staff on the +top. Still one, and that a very familiar source of disquietude, harassed +us as our eyes turned anxiously to the west. A single huge band of cloud +hung heavily right across the sky, and looked like a harbinger of evil, +for it was of a livid colour above, and tinged with a deep crimson red +below. My companion was despondent at the prospect it suggested, and the +guides tapped their teeth with their forefingers when they looked in that +direction; but it was suggested by a more sanguine person that its form +and very watery look suggested a Band of Hope. An insinuating smell of +savoury soup was wafted up gently from below— + + Stealing and giving odour. + +We took courage; then descended to the tent, and took sustenance. + +There was no difficulty experienced in making an early start the next day, +and the moment the grey light allowed us to see our way we set off. On +such occasions, when the mind is strung up to a high pitch of excitement, +odd and trivial little details and incidents fix themselves indelibly on +the memory. I can recall as distinctly now, as if it had only happened a +moment ago, the exact tone of voice in which Burgener, on looking out of +the tent, announced that the weather would do. Burgener and Kaspar Maurer +were now our guides, for our old enemy with the family ties had been paid +off and sent away with a flea in his ear—an almost unnecessary adjunct, as +anyone who had slept in the same tent with him could testify. +Notwithstanding that Maurer was far from well, and rather weak, we mounted +rapidly at first, for the way was by this time familiar enough, and we all +meant business. + +(M97) + +Our position now was this. By our exploration on the last occasion we had +ascertained that it was possible to ascend to a great height on the main +mass of the mountain. From the slope of the rocks, and from the shape of +the mountain, we felt sure that the final crest would be easy enough. We +had then to find a way still up the face, from the point where we had +turned back on our last attempt, to some point on the final ridge of the +mountain. The rocks on this part we had never been able to examine very +closely, for it is necessary to cross well over to the south-eastern face +while ascending from the ridge between the Aiguille du Dru and the +Aiguille Verte. A great projecting buttress of rock, some two or three +hundred feet in height, cuts off the view of that part of the mountain +over which we now hoped to make our way. By turning up straight behind +this buttress, we hoped to hit off and reach the final crest just above +the point where it merges into the precipitous north-eastern wall visible +from the Chapeau. This part of the mountain can only be seen from the very +head of the Glacier de la Charpoua just under the mass of the Aiguille +Verte. But this point of view is too far off for accurate observations, +and the strip of mountain was practically, therefore, a _terra incognita_ +to us. + +(M98) + +We followed the gully running up from the head of the glacier towards the +ridge above mentioned, keeping well to the left. Before long it was +necessary to cross the gully on to the main peak. To make the topography +clearer a somewhat prosaic and domestic simile may be employed. The +Aiguille du Dru and the Aiguille Verte are connected by a long sharp +ridge, towards which we were now climbing; and this ridge is let in as it +were into the south-eastern side of the Aiguille du Dru, much as a comb +may be stuck into the middle of a hairbrush, the latter article +representing the main peak. Here we employed the ladder which had been +placed in the right position the day previously. Right glad were we to see +the rickety old structure which had now spent four years on the mountain, +and was much the worse for it. It creaked and groaned dismally under our +weight and ran sharp splinters into us at all points of contact, but yet +there was a certain companionship about the old ladder, and we seemed +almost to regret that it was not destined to share more in our prospective +success. A few steps on and we came to a rough cleft some five-and-twenty +feet in depth, which had to be descended. A double rope was fastened to a +projecting crag, and we swung ourselves down as if we were barrels of +split peas going into a ship’s hold; then to the ascent again, and the +excitement waxed stronger as we drew nearer to the doubtful part of the +mountain. Still, we did not anticipate insuperable obstacles; for I think +we were possessed with a determination to succeed, which is a sensation +often spoken of as a presentiment of success. A short climb up an easy +broken gully, and of a sudden we seemed to be brought to a standstill. A +little ledge at our feet curled round a projecting crag on the left. “What +are we to do now?” said Burgener, but with a smile on his face that left +no doubt as to the answer. He lay flat down on the ledge and wriggled +round the projection, disappearing suddenly from view as if the rock had +swallowed him up. A shout proclaimed that his expectations had not been +deceived, and we were bidden to follow; and follow we did, sticking to the +flat face of the rock with all our power, and progressing like the skates +down the glass sides of an aquarium tank. When the last man joined us we +found ourselves all huddled together on a very little ledge indeed, while +an overhanging rock above compelled us to assume the anomalous attitude +enforced on the occupant of a little-ease dungeon. What next? An eager +look up solved part of the doubt. “There is the way,” said Burgener, +leaning back to get a view. “Oh, indeed,” we answered. No doubt there was +a way, and we were glad to hear that it was possible to get up it. The +attractions of the route consisted of a narrow flat gully plastered up +with ice, exceeding straight and steep and crowned at the top with a +pendulous mass of enormous icicles. The gully resembled a half-open book +standing up on end. Enthusiasts in rock-climbing who have ascended the +Riffelhorn from the Görner Glacier side will have met with a similar +gully, but, as a rule, free from ice, which, in the present instance, +constituted the chief difficulty. The ice, filling up the receding angle +from top to bottom, rendered it impossible to find hand-hold on the rocks, +and it was exceedingly difficult to cut steps in such a place, for the +slabs of ice were prone to break away entire. However, the guides said +they could get up, and asked us to keep out of the way of chance fragments +of ice which might fall down as they ascended. So we tucked ourselves away +on one side, and they fell to as difficult a business as could well be +imagined. The rope was discarded, and slowly they worked up, their backs +and elbows against one sloping wall, their feet against the other. But the +angle was too wide to give security to this position, the more especially +that with shortened axes they were compelled to hack out enough of the ice +to reveal the rock below. In such places the ice is but loosely adherent, +being raised up from the face much as pie-crust dissociates itself from +the fruit beneath under the influence of the oven. Strike lightly with the +axe, and a hollow sound is yielded without much impression on the ice; +strike hard, and the whole mass breaks away. But the latter method is the +right one to adopt, though it necessitates very hard work. No steps are +really reliable when cut in ice of this description. + +(M99) + +The masses of ice, coming down harder and harder as they ascended without +intermission, showed how they were working, and the only consolation that +we had during a time that we felt to be critical, was that the guides were +not likely to expend so much labour unless they thought that some good +result would come of it. Suddenly there came a sharp shout and cry; then a +crash as a great slab of ice, falling from above, was dashed into pieces +at our feet and leaped into the air; then a brief pause, and we knew not +what would happen next. Either the gully had been ascended or the guides +had been pounded, and failure here might be failure altogether. It is true +that Hartley and I had urged the guides to find a way some little distance +to the right of the line on which they were now working; but they had +reported that, though easy below, the route we had pointed out was +impossible above.(5) A faint scratching noise close above us, as of a +mouse perambulating behind a wainscot. We look up. It is the end of a +rope. We seize it, and our pull from below is answered by a triumphant +yell from above as the line is drawn taut. Fastening the end around my +waist, I started forth. The gully was a scene of ruin, and I could hardly +have believed that two axes in so short a time could have dealt so much +destruction. Nowhere were the guides visible, and in another moment there +was a curious sense of solitariness as I battled with the obstacles, aided +in no small degree by the rope. The top of the gully was blocked up by a +great cube of rock, dripping still where the icicles had just been broken +off. The situation appeared to me to demand deliberation, though it was +not accorded. “Come on,” said voices from above. “Up you go,” said a voice +from below. I leaned as far back as I could, and felt about for a +hand-hold. There was none. Everything seemed smooth. Then right, then +left; still none. So I smiled feebly to myself, and called out, “Wait a +minute.” This was of course taken as an invitation to pull vigorously, +and, struggling and kicking like a spider irritated by tobacco smoke, I +topped the rock and lent a hand on the rope for Hartley to follow. Then we +learnt that a great mass of ice had broken away under Maurer’s feet while +they were in the gully, and that he must have fallen had not Burgener +pinned him to the rock with one hand. From the number of times that this +escape was described to us during that day and the next, I am inclined to +think that it was rather a near thing. At the time, and often since, I +have questioned myself as to whether we could have got up this passage +without the rope let down from above. I think either of us could have done +it in time with a companion. It was necessary for two to be in the gully +at the same time, to assist each other. It was necessary also to discard +the rope, which in such a place could only be a source of danger. But no +amateur should have tried the passage on that occasion without confidence +in his own powers, and without absolute knowledge of the limit of his own +powers. If the gully had been free from ice it would have been much +easier. + +(M100) + +“The worst is over now,” said Burgener. I was glad to hear it, but, +looking upwards, had my doubts. The higher we went the bigger the rocks +seemed to be. Still there was a way, and it was not so very unlike what I +had, times out of mind, pictured to myself in imagination. Another tough +scramble and we stood on a comparatively extensive ledge. With elation we +observed that we had now climbed more than half of the only part of the +mountain of the nature of which we were uncertain. A few steps on and +Burgener grasped me suddenly by the arm. “Do you see the great red rock up +yonder?” he whispered, hoarse with excitement—“in ten minutes we shall be +there and on the arête, and then——” Nothing could stop us now; but a +feverish anxiety to see what lay beyond, to look on the final slope which +we knew must be easy, impelled us on, and we worked harder than ever to +overcome the last few obstacles. The ten minutes expanded into something +like thirty before we really reached the rock. Of a sudden the mountain +seemed to change its form. For hours we had been climbing the hard, dry +rocks. Now these appeared suddenly to vanish from under our feet, and once +again our eyes fell on snow which lay thick, half hiding, half revealing, +the final slope of the ridge. A glance along it showed that we had not +misjudged. Even the cautious Maurer admitted that, as far as we could see, +all appeared promising. And now, with the prize almost within our grasp, a +strange desire to halt and hang back came on. Burgener tapped the rock +with his axe, and we seemed somehow to regret that the way in front of us +must prove comparatively easy. Our foe had almost yielded, and it appeared +something like cruelty to administer the final _coup de grâce_. We could +already anticipate the half-sad feeling with which we should reach the top +itself. It needed but little to make the feeling give way. Some one cried +“Forwards,” and instantly we were all in our places again, and the +leader’s axe crashed through the layers of snow into the hard blue ice +beneath. A dozen steps, and then a short bit of rock scramble; then more +steps along the south side of the ridge, followed by more rock, and the +ridge beyond, which had been hidden for a minute or two, stretched out +before us again as we topped the first eminence. Better and better it +looked as we went on. “See there,” cried Burgener suddenly, “the actual +top!” + +(M101) + +There was no possibility of mistaking the two huge stones we had so often +looked at from below. They seemed, in the excitement of the moment, misty +and blurred for a brief space, but grew clear again as I passed my hand +over my eyes and seemed to swallow something. A few feet below the +pinnacles and on the left was one of those strange arches formed by a +great transverse boulder, so common near the summits of these aiguilles, +and through the hole we could see blue sky. Nothing could lay beyond, and, +still better, nothing could be above. On again, while we could scarcely +stand still in the great steps the leader set his teeth to hack out. Then +there came a short troublesome bit of snow scramble, where the heaped-up +cornice had fallen back from the final rock. There we paused for a moment, +for the summit was but a few feet from us, and Hartley, who was ahead, +courteously allowed me to unrope and go on first. In a few seconds I +clutched at the last broken rocks, and hauled myself up on to the sloping +summit. There for a moment I stood alone gazing down on Chamouni. The +holiday dream of five years was accomplished; the Aiguille du Dru was +climbed. Where in the wide world will you find a sport able to yield +pleasure like this? + +Mountaineers are often asked, “What did you do when you got to the top?” +With regard to this peak the same question has often been put to me, and I +have often answered it, but, it must be confessed, always suppressing one +or two facts. I do not know why I should conceal them now any longer, the +more especially as I think there is a moral to be drawn from my +experience, or I would still keep it locked up. I had tried so hard and so +long to get up this little peak, that some reaction of mind was not +improbable; but it took a turn which I had never before and have never +since experienced in the slightest degree. For a second or two—it cannot +have been longer—all the past seemed blotted out, all consciousness of +self, all desire of life was lost, and I was seized with an impulse almost +incontrollable to throw myself down the vertical precipice which lay +immediately at my feet. I know not now, though the feeling is still and +always will be intensely vivid, how it was resisted, but at the sound of +the voices below the faculties seemed to return each to its proper place, +and with the restoration of the mental balance the momentary idea of +violently overturning the physical balance vanished. What has happened to +one may have happened to others. It appeared to me quite different from +what is known as mountain vertigo. In fact, I never moved at all from +where I stood, and awoke, as it were, to find myself looking calmly down +the identical place. It may be that the mental equilibrium under similar +circumstances has not always been so fortunately restored, and that thus +calamities on the mountains may have taken place. In another minute the +rest of the party ascended, and we were all reposing on the hard-won +summit. + +(M102) + +Far below a little white speck representing Couttet’s Hotel was well in +view, and towards this we directed our telescope. We could make out a few +individuals wandering listlessly about, but there did not seem to be much +excitement; in front of the Imperial Hotel, however, we were pleased to +imagine that we saw somebody gazing in our direction. Accordingly, with +much pomp and ceremony, the stick—which it may be stated was borrowed +without leave—was fixed into a little cleft and tightly wedged in; then, +to my horror, Burgener, with many chuckles at his own foresight and at the +completeness of his equipment, produced from a concealed pocket a piece of +scarlet flannel strongly suggestive of a baby’s under garment, and tied it +on to the stick. I protested in vain; in a moment the objectionable rag +was floating proudly in the breeze. However, it seemed to want airing. +Determined that our ascent should be placed beyond doubt in the eyes of +any subsequent visitors, we ransacked our stores, and were enabled to +leave the following articles:—One half-pint bottle containing our names, +preserved by a paper stopper from the inclemency of the weather; two +wooden wedges of unknown use, two ends of string, three burnt fusees, +divers chips, one stone man of dwarf proportions, the tenpenny stick, and +the infant’s petticoat. + +There is a popular belief that the main object of climbing up a mountain +is to get a view from the top. It may therefore be a matter of regret to +some, but it will certainly be a matter of great congratulation to many +others, that of the view obtained I can say but little. Chamouni looked +very nice, however, from this distance. Turning towards the Aiguille Verte +we were astonished to notice that this great mass appeared to tower far +less above us than might have been expected from its much greater height +and close proximity. On the other hand, the lower south-eastern peak of +the Aiguille du Dru seemed much more below us than we had imagined would +be the case. It is a moot point in mountaineering circles how much +difference between two closely contiguous points is necessary in order +that they may be rated as individual peaks. At the time we estimated the +difference between the two peaks of our Aiguille to be about 80 feet, but +Hartley, who has since climbed the lower point, estimates that the +difference between the two must be at the very least 120 feet. Still, the +comparative meagreness of the panorama did not affect our spirits, nor +detract in any appreciable degree from the completeness of the expedition. +The Aiguille du Dru is essentially an expedition only for those who love a +good climb for climbing’s sake. Every step, every bit of scrambling, +was—and is still—a pleasure. + +(M103) + +We had reached the top at half-past twelve, so that our estimate of the +time required had been a very accurate one. After spending three-quarters +of an hour on the summit we turned to the descent with regret, and +possessed with much the same feeling as a schoolboy on Black Monday, who +takes an affectionate farewell of all sorts of inanimate objects. Very +difficult the descent proved to be. We were so anxious, now that our +efforts had been finally crowned with success, that the whole expedition +should pass off without the least misadventure, that we went much more +slowly, and took more elaborate precautions than under ordinary +circumstances would have been deemed necessary. From the start we had +agreed that, whatever the hour, nothing should persuade us to hurry the +least in the descent. On such mountains, however, as the Aiguille du Dru +it is easier on the whole to get down than to get up, especially if a good +supply of spare rope be included in the equipment. At three places we +found it advisable to fix ropes in order to assist our progress. It was +curious to observe how marvellously the aspect of the mountain was changed +as we looked down the places up which we had climbed so recently; and +there were so many deviations from the straight line, that the way was +very difficult to find at all. Indeed, Burgener alone could hit it off +with certainty, and, though last on the rope, directed the way without +ever making the slightest mistake at any part. We followed precisely the +same route as in ascending, and noticed few if any places where this route +was capable of improvement, or even of alteration. + +Not till nearly five o’clock did we regain our abandoned store of +provisions; the sight of the little white packets, and especially of a +certain can of tinned meat, seen at a considerable distance below, incited +us to great exertions, for since ten in the morning we had partaken of +nothing but a sandwich crushed out of all recognisable shape. Ignoring the +probability of being benighted on the rocks, we caroused merrily on +seltzer water and the contents of the tin can. It seemed almost a pity to +quit for good these familiar rocks on which we had spent such a glorious +time, and the sun was sinking low behind the Brévent range, and the rocks +were all darkened in the grey shadows, before the guides could persuade us +to pack up and resume our journey. Very little time was lost in descending +when we had once started, but before we had reached a certain little +sloping ledge furnished with a collection of little pointed stones, and +known as the breakfast place, the darkness had overtaken us. The glacier +lay only a few feet below, when the mist which had been long threatening +swept up and closed in around us. The crevasses at the head of the glacier +were so complicated, and the snow bridges so fragile, that we thought it +wiser not to go on at once, but to wait till the snow should have had time +to harden. So we sat down under an overhanging rock, and made believe that +we enjoyed the fun. Hartley wedged a stone under his waist, as if he were +the hind wheel of a waggon going uphill, and imitated the inaction and +attitude of a person going to sleep. The guides retired to a little +distance and, as is their wont when inactive, fell to a warm discussion +over the dimensions of the different chamois they had shot, each of course +outvying the other in turn. The game has this merit at least, when there +is plenty of spare time at disposal, that if the players only begin low +enough down in the animal scale it is practically unlimited. + +(M104) + +Before long the situation ceased to be amusing, as we found that we had +managed to get wet through in the gully, and that the slowly falling +temperature was exceedingly unpleasant. I converted a cowhide knapsack +into a temporary foot-warmer, much to the detriment of such articles of +food as were still stored in its recesses, and tucked a boot under each +arm to keep the leather from hardening. Then we fell to discussing what we +would have next day for breakfast, and for some two hours found a certain +amount of solace in disputing over the merits of divers dainty dishes. +Even this fertile subject failed at length to give adequate satisfaction. +The ledge became colder and colder, and new spiky little points appeared +to develop every moment. The argument of the sportsmen grew fainter, and +we became slowly chilled through. For a while the mind became more active, +but less logical, and fanciful visions crowded thickly through it. On such +occasions it is seldom possible to fix the thoughts on events immediately +past. To my drowsy gaze the mist seemed to take the form of our native +fogs, while the condition of the ledge suggested obtrusively a newly +macadamised road. Almost at will I could transport myself in imagination +to the metropolis I had so recently left, or back again to the wild little +ledge on which we were stranded. Following up the train of sensations, it +was easy to conceive how reason might fail altogether, and how gradually, +as the senses became numbed one by one, delirium might supervene from cold +and exposure—as has often happened to arctic travellers. The thoughts flew +off far afield, and pictured the exact contrast of the immediate +surroundings. I saw a brilliantly lighted street with long rows of flaming +lamps. The windows of the clubhouses shone out as great red and orange +squares and oblongs. Carriages dashed by, cabs oscillated down the roads. +Elegantly attired youths about to commence their wakeful period (why are +men who only know the seamy side of life called “men of the world”? Is it +so bad a world, my masters?) were strolling off to places of +entertainment. A feeble, ragged creature crept along in the shadows. A +worn, bright-eyed girl, just free from work which had begun at early dawn, +dragged her aching limbs homewards, but stopped a moment to glance with +envy at a mamma and two fair daughters crossing the pavement to their +carriage; light, life, bustle, crowding everywhere. Faster and faster +follow the shifting scenes till the visions jostle and become confused——A +crack, a distant sound of a falling shower of stones, a hiss as they fall +on to the snow slopes below. The eyes open, but the mind only half awakes, +and almost immediately dreams again, with changed visions of comfortable +rooms, in which the flickering light of a coal fire now throws up, now +half conceals the close-drawn curtains, or the familiar form of books and +pictures; visions of some formless individual with slippered feet disposed +at judicious distance from the blazing coals, of soft carpets and deep +arm-chairs moulded by long use into the precise intaglio adapted to the +human frame; visions of a warm flood of subdued light, of things steaming +gently with curling wreaths of vapour. All these passed in order before +the mind, called up by the incantation of discomfort out of the cauldron +of misery, like unto the regal display manifested to that impulsive and +somewhat over-married individual, Macbeth. + +(M105) + +But before long it was most difficult to picture these pleasant sights so +vividly as to become altogether oblivious of an exceedingly chilly +personality, and ultimately human nature triumphed, and the _ego_ in a +rather frozen state became again paramount. I had begun to calculate the +number of hours we might have to remain where we were, and the probable +state in which we should be next morning, when of a sudden the mist +lifted, and disclosed the glacier just below feebly lit up by the rising +moon. We sprang instantly to our feet, almost as instantaneously returning +to our former positions by reason of the exceeding stiffness and cramp +begotten of the cold. The guides, leaving their discussion at a point +where the last speaker had, in imagination, shot a chamois about the size +of an elephant, descended to inspect the ice. The snow bridges were +pronounced secure, and we were soon across the crevasses, but found to our +disgust that we had rather overdone the waiting. The slope was hard +frozen, and in the dim light it was found necessary to cut steps nearly +the whole way down the glacier. For five hours and a half were we thus +engaged, and did not reach our camp till 2.30 A.M. Never did the tent look +so comfortable as on that morning. If, as was remarked of Mrs. Gamp’s +apartment in Kingsgate Street, High Holborn, to the contented mind a +cottage is a palace, so to the weary frame may a tent be a luxurious +hotel. We rushed over the loose rocks by the snout of the glacier, and ran +helter-skelter for our bivouac. From the circumstance that the invariable +struggle for the best pillow was usually brief, and that one of the party +was discovered next morning wrong end foremost in his sleeping bag with +his boots still on his feet, I am disposed to think that we were not long +in dropping off to sleep; but the unstudied attitudes of the party +suggested rather four revellers returning from a Greenwich dinner in a +four-wheeled cab over a cobbled road than a company of sober mountaineers. +By seven o’clock, however, the predominant thought of breakfast so +asserted itself that we woke up and looked out. + +(M106) + +The first object that met our gaze was a large sheet of paper, affixed to +the rock just in front of the tent, and bearing the simple inscription +“Hooray!” This led us to surmise that our success was already known below; +for the author of the legend had returned to Chamouni the previous +evening, after having seen us on the summit. To each man was apportioned +the burden he should bear of the camp equipage. Such a collection of pots +and pans and other paraphernalia had we amassed gradually during our stay, +that our appearance as we crossed the glacier suggested rather that of +certain inhabitants of Lagado mentioned in Gulliver’s voyage to Laputa. By +nine o’clock we had deposited our burdens at the Montanvert and, +disregarding the principles of the sages above referred to, ventured to +corrode our lungs by articulating our wants to the landlord. This worthy +received us with more than his usual affability, for the tidings of our +success had in truth already reached the inn. A bottle of conical form was +produced, the cork drawn with a monstrous explosion, and some very +indifferent fluid poured out as a token of congratulation. In spite of, +perhaps in consequence of, these early libations, we skipped down the +well-worn and somewhat unsavoury path with great nimbleness, and in an +hour or so found ourselves on the level path leading along the valley to +Chamouni by the English church. There, I am pleased to record, the first +man to congratulate us was our old friend M. Gabriel Loppé, without whose +kindly sympathy and constant encouragement I doubt if we should have ever +persevered to our successful end. It mattered little to us that but few of +the Chamouni guides gave us credit for having really ascended the peak, +for most of them maintained that we had merely reached a point on the +south-east face of the lower summit; indeed, to those not so familiar with +the details of the mountain as we were, it might well seem hard to realise +that the crag jutting out on the right, as seen from Chamouni, is really +the actual summit. + +Such is the record of the most fascinating rock climb with which I am +acquainted. From beginning to end it is interesting. There is no wearisome +tramping over loose moraine and no great extent of snow-field to traverse. +The rocks are wondrously firm and big, and peculiarly unlike those on +other mountains, even on many of the aiguilles about Chamouni. + +(M107) + +An odd code of mountaineering morality has gradually sprung into +existence, and ideas as to what is fair and sportsmanlike in mountain +climbing are somewhat peculiar. People speak somewhat vaguely of +“artificial aid,” and are wont to criticise in very severe language the +employment of such assistance, at the same time finding it rather hard, if +driven into a corner, to define what they mean by the term. It would seem +that artificial aid may signify the driving of iron pegs into rocks when +nature has provided insufficient hand or foot-hold. Such a proceeding is +considered highly improper. To cut a step in ice is right, but to chisel +out a step on rock is in the highest degree unjustifiable. Again, a ladder +may be used without critical animadversion to bridge a crevasse, but its +employment over a rock cleft is tabooed. A certain amount of +mountaineering equipment is not only considered proper, but those who go +on the mountains without it are spoken of with great asperity, and called +very hard names; but the equipment must not include anything beyond +hobnails, rope, axes, and possibly a ladder for a crevasse; any other +contrivance is sniffed at contemptuously as artificial aid. Rockets and +such like are usually only mentioned in order to be condemned; while +grapnels, chains, and crampons are held to be the inventions of the fiend. +Why these unwritten laws should exist in such an imaginary code it is hard +to see. Perhaps we must not consider too curiously on the matter. For my +own part, if it could be proved that by no possible means could a given +bad passage be traversed without some such aid, nor turned by another +route, I should not hesitate to adopt any mechanical means to the desired +end. As a matter of fact, in the Alps scarcely any such places exist for +those who have taken the trouble to learn how to climb, and there are none +on the Aiguille du Dru. We used our ladder often enough in exploring the +mountain, but when we actually ascended it we employed it in one place +only, saving thereby at least an hour of invaluable time. Indeed, +subsequent explorers have found such to be the case; and Mr. W. E. +Davidson, in a recent ascent of the mountain, was able to find his way +without invoking the assistance of either ladder or fixed ropes. In a +marvellously short space of time, too, did he get up and down the peak on +which we had spent hours without number. Still, this is the fate of all +mountains. The mountaineers who make the third ascent are, usually, able +to sweep away the blushing honours that the first climbers might fondly +hope they had invested the mountain with. A word, a stroke of the pen, +will do it. The peaks do not yield gradually from their high estate, but +fall, like Lucifer, from summit to ultimate destination, and are suddenly +converted from “the most difficult mountain in the Alps” to “Oh yes; a +fine peak, but not a patch upon Mount So-and-so.” It is but with the +mountains as with other matters of this life, save in this respect, that +once deposed they never can hope to reign again supreme. Statements +concerning our fellow-creatures when of a depreciatory, and still more +when of a scandal-flavoured, nature, are always believed by nine people +out of ten to be, if not absolutely true, at any rate well-founded enough +for repetition. A different estimate of the standard of veracity to be met +with in this world is assumed when the remarks are favourable. Even so may +it be, in some instances, with the mountains. The prestige that clings to +a maiden peak is like the bark on a wand: peel it off, and it cannot be +replaced; the bough withers, and is cast to one side, its character +permanently altered. + +(M108) + +We would fain have rested that evening, but the edict went forth that +festivities were to take place in honour of the ascent, and, to tell the +truth, that evening was not the least fatiguing part of the whole affair. +The opportunity was too good to be lost, especially as the customary mode +of testifying congratulations by firing off divers podgy little cannons, +had been omitted. Preparations were made for a display of fireworks on a +large scale. Some six rockets of moderately soaring ambition were placed +in order on the grass-plot in front of the hotel. A skilful pyrotechnist, +who knew the right end to which to apply the match, was placed in charge, +and fussed about a great deal. A very little table covered with a white +cloth, and on which were displayed several bottles, reminded the crowd of +loafers who assembled expectant as the darkness came on, that a carousal +was meditated. At last the word was given, and the pyrotechnist, beaming +with pride, advanced bearing a lighted taper attached to the end of a +stick of judicious length. A hush of expectancy followed, and experienced +persons retired to sheltered corners. The fireworks behaved as they +usually do. They fizzed prodigiously, and went off in the most unexpected +directions. One rocket, rather weak in the waist, described, after a +little preliminary spluttering, an exceedingly sharp, corkscrew-like +series of curves, and then turned head-over-heels with astounding rapidity +on the lawn, like a rabbit shot through the head, and there lay flat, +spluttering out its gunpowdery vitals. Another was perfectly unmoved at +the initial application of the kindling flame, but then suddenly began to +swell up in an alarming way, causing the pyrotechnist, who had no previous +experience of this phenomenon, to retreat somewhat hastily. However, one +of the rockets rose to a height of some five-and-twenty feet, much to the +operator’s satisfaction, and we were all able to congratulate him warmly +on his contribution to our entertainment as we emerged from our places of +security. + +(M109) + +A series of smaller explosions, resulting from the drawing of corks, was +the next item in the programme, and appeared to give more general +satisfaction. Then the bell rang, and the master of the ceremonies +announced that the ball was about to commence. Some over-zealous person +had unfortunately sought to improve the condition of the floor for +dancing, by tracing an arabesque pattern on the boards with water, using +for the purpose a tin pot with a convenient leak at the bottom. It +followed that the exercise of waltzing in thick boots was more laborious +than graceful. Without, the villagers crowded at the windows to gaze upon +our fantastic gyrations. But little formality had been observed in +organising the ball; in fact, the ceremony of issuing cards of invitation +had been replaced by ringing a bell and displaying a placard on which it +was announced that the dance would commence at nine o’clock. However, the +enjoyment appeared to be none the less keen, for all that the dancers were +breathing fairly pure air, taking no champagne, and not fulfilling any +social duty. But for the costumes the gathering might have been mistaken +for a fashionable entertainment. All the recognised types to be met with +in a London ball-room were there. The conversation, judging from the +fragments overheard, did not appear to be below the average standard of +intellectuality. The ladies, who came from the various hotels of Chamouni, +displayed, as most English girls do—_pace_ the jealous criticism of +certain French writers, more smart than observant—their curious faculty of +improvising ball costume exactly suitable to the occasion. There was a +young man who had a pair of white gloves, and was looked upon with awe in +consequence, and who, in the intervals of the dances, slid about in an +elegant manner instead of walking. There was a middle-aged person of +energetic temperament who skipped and hopped like the little hills, and +kept everything going—including the refreshments. There was a captious and +cynical person, who frowned horribly, and sat in a corner in the verandah +with an altogether superior air, and who, in support of the character, +smoked a cigar of uncertain botanical pedigree provided by the hotel, +which disagreed with him and increased his splenetic mood. Elsewhere, at +more fashionable gatherings, he would have leaned against doorposts, +cultivated a dejected demeanour, and got very much in other people’s way. +There was a pianist who was a very clever artist, and found out at once +the notes that yielded no response on the instrument, and who, like his +more fashionable analogue, regularly required stimulants after playing a +waltz. It mattered little what he played—polka, waltz, galop, or +mazurka—whatever the tune, the couples all rotated more or less slowly +about; so it was evidently an English gathering. At such impromptu dances +there is always a strong desire to show off musical talent. No sooner did +the hireling pianist desist than a little cluster gathered around the +instrument, assured him that he must be tired, and volunteered to play. +Finally he was induced to rest, and a young lady who knew “Rousseau’s +Dream,” or some tune very like it, triumphantly seated herself and +favoured the company with that air in waltz time, whereat the unsuccessful +candidates for the seat smiled scornfully at each other, and rolled up +their eyes, and would not dance. So they, in turn, triumphed, and the +young lady blushed, and said she had never seen such a stupid set of +people, and went away and sat by her parents, and thought the world was +indeed hollow. The hireling came back, and all went on merrily again. + +(M110) + +In the yard outside the crowd increased. In the midst of the throng could +be seen Maurer, resplendent in a shirt the front of which was like unto a +petrified bath-towel, wearing a coat many sizes too large, his face +beaming with smiles and shining from the effects of drinks offered in the +spirit of good fellowship on all sides. Close by stood Burgener, +displaying similar physiognomical phenomena, his natural free movements +hampered by the excessive tightness of some garments with which an admirer +of smaller girth had presented him. Let us do justice to the guides of +Chamouni, who might not unnaturally have found some cause for +disappointment that the peak had been captured by strangers in the land. +On this occasion, at any rate, they offered the hand of good fellowship, +and listened with admiring attention while our guides, in an unknown +tongue, expatiated on the difficulties and dangers they had successfully +overcome—difficulties which did not appear to become less by frequent +repetition. Let us leave them there. They did their work thoroughly well, +and might be pardoned, under all the circumstances, for a little swagger. + +(M111) + +The days grow shorter apace. The sun has barely time to make the ice peaks +glisten, ere the cold shadows creep over again. Snow lies thick on ledge +and cranny, and only the steepest mountain faces show dark through the +powdery veil. Bleak night winds whistle around the beetling crags and +whirl and chevy the wreathing snow-clouds, making weird music in these +desolate fastnesses, while the glaciers and snow-fields collect fresh +strength against the time when their relentless destroyer shall attack +them once again at an advantage. The scene is changed. The clear air, the +delicate purity of the Alpine tints are but recollections, and have given +way to fog, mist, slush, and smoke-laden atmosphere. Would you recall +these mountain pictures? Draw close the curtains, stir the coals into an +indignant crackling blaze, and fashion, in the rising smoke, the mountain +vista. How easy it is to unlock the storehouse of the mind where these +images are stowed away! how these scenes crowd back into the mind! What +keener charm than to pass in review the memories of these simple, +wholesome pleasures; to see again, as clear as in the reality, every +ledge, every hand and foot-hold; to feel the fingers tingle and the +muscles instinctively contract at the recollection of some tough scramble +on rock or glacier? The pleasures of the Alps endure long after the actual +experience, and are but invested; whether the interest can be derived by +any one but the actual investor is a matter for others to decide. For my +own part, I can only wish that any one could possibly derive a hundredth +part of the pleasure in reading, that I have had in writing, of our +adventures. + + + + + + CHAPTER VII. + + + BYE-DAYS IN ALPINE MIDLANDS + + + 1. _A Pardonable Digression._ + + On well-ordered intellects—The drawbacks of accurate + memory—Sub-Alpine walks: their admirers and their + recommendations—The “High Level Route”—The Ruinette—An infallible + prescription for ill-humour—A climb and a meditation on grass + slopes—The agile person’s acrobatic feats—The psychological + effects of sunrise—The ascent of the Ruinette—We return to our + mutton at Arolla—A vision on the hill-side. + + 2. _A Little Maiden._ + + Saas in the olden days—A neglected valley—The mountains drained + dry—A curious omission—The Portienhorn, and its good points as a + mountain—The chef produces a masterpiece—An undesirable tenement + to be let unfurnished—An evicted family—A rapid act of + mountaineering—On the pleasures of little climbs—The various + methods of making new expeditions on one mountain—On the + mountaineer who has nothing to learn, and his consequent + ignorance. + + + + + 1. _A Pardonable Digression._ + + +There are some, and they are considered, on the whole, fortunate by less +highly gifted individuals, who possess minds as accurately divided up into +receptacles for the storage of valuable material as a honeycomb. Every +scrap of information acquired by the owner of such a well-ordered +intellect is duly sifted, purged, ticketed, and finally pigeon-holed in +its proper cell, whence it could undoubtedly be drawn out at any future +time for reference, were it not for the fact that the pigeon-holes are all +so very much alike that the geometrically minded man commonly forgets the +number of the shelf to which he has relegated his item of knowledge. He +need not really regret that this should be the case; persons with this +exceedingly well-ordered form of mind are apt to be a little too precise +for ordinary folk, and may even by the captious be rated as dull +creatures. A love for the beautiful is not usually associated with +excessively tidy habits of mind. An artist’s studio in apple-pie order +would seem as unnatural as a legal document drawn up on æsthetic +principles. If the truth be told, the picturesque is always associated +with—not to mince matters—the dirty; and the city of Hygeia, however +commendably free from the latter quality, would be but a dreary and +unattractive town. Nor would it, as seems to be sometimes supposed, be +quite a paradise to that terrible and minatory person, the sanitarian. On +the contrary, he would probably be found dining with the undertaker—off +approved viands—and the pair would be bewailing the hard times. + +(M112) + +I knew a man once who was marvellously proud of a certain little cabinet, +devoted to the reception of keys, all of which were arranged in a +remarkably orderly manner. He was fond of demonstrating the system, which +seemed, in truth, highly business-like; but I lost faith one day in his +method, on finding that he did not know the locks which the several keys +were constructed respectively to open. It is with the mind’s eye as with +the bodily eye. We are able only to focus sharply one thing at a time, and +the beauty of a given view, from the physiological standpoint, consists in +the softened indistinctness of all objects out of the range of absolute +focus—a fact of which the early Florentine artists evinced a curious +disregard, and which their modern imitators, who, at least in our +scientific age, ought to know something of the elementary laws of optics, +render themselves somewhat ridiculous by servilely copying. So is it also +with the memory. A certain indistinctness of detail often renders the +recollection even more pleasing; we may be able only to reproduce from the +pigeon-hole, as it were, a rather indistinct, blotted-in impression, but +as the artist would be fully justified in working up such a study into a +finished picture, so may the writer be allowed also to elaborate from his +mental sketch a complete work. Now, in wandering in those numerous +districts in the mountains of Switzerland which cannot properly be classed +as sub-Alpine, and yet are not lofty enough to warrant their explorer in +dignifying his rambles by the term “climbing,” one great charm consists in +the fact that, while everything is pleasing, there is no distinct +objective point that we are bidden to admire. The critical tendency is a +very constant factor in human character, and the chief business the +professional critic has to learn consists in finding out how far he may +legitimately go, and how he may best say what he is called upon to +express. Now even the least critical of our race, the gushing section of +humanity, feel irresistibly disposed to cavil at anything they are told +they must admire. Perhaps, though, it is not the critical attributes which +come out on such occasions in them. Possibly it is but an example of that +still more uniformly found characteristic of man and woman, a quality +which, in the process of the descent of our species, has been handed down +without the least alteration from such lower animals as the mule for +instance, and for which, oddly enough, we have no proper term in our +language this side of the water, but know it as “cussedness.” + +(M113) + +Most travellers hear with a slight feeling of relief, on arriving at their +destination and inquiring what there is to be seen, that there is nothing +in particular, and the sub-Alpine walker has this charm perpetually with +him. His expedition cannot fail, for it does not aim at any particular +object on the attainment of which it depends whether he considers himself +successful or not. These sub-Alpine walks and rambles form the background, +the setting, the frame, and the surrounding of the more sharply defined +and more memorable high expeditions. Perhaps these are but the sentiments +of advancing mountaineering age; certainly they may be heard most often +from those who have reached that period of life when they no longer pay +heed to wrinkles in their trousers, when they are somewhat exacting in the +matter of club dinners, and when they object strongly to receiving +assistance from younger folk in putting on their overcoats. Howbeit, as we +may recall the statement made in the “Delectus,”— + + Neque semper arcum + Tendit Apollo, + +even so does the mountaineer occasionally relax his muscles, and find +pleasure in the Alpine midlands. Moreover, the writer feels that the +perpetual breathing of rarefied air may be apt to induce too great a +strain on his readers, and recollects that a piano always tuned to concert +pitch is not so harmonious an instrument as one occasionally unstrung; so +some relief is at times necessary. Contrast, inasmuch as nature provides +it on every hand, we may be sure is a thing for which man has an +instinctive craving; and to my mind, at least, a picture in which rich +colouring is introduced, and where the result of the blending is +harmonious, is more satisfactory than the work which appeals by what I +believe artists would call “tone.” The principle applies rather widely. We +may have observed that young ladies of prepossessing appearance love to be +accompanied by dogs of repulsive mien. The costermonger, again, if +possessed, as he always is, of a hoarse voice, is not completely equipped +unless provided with a boy companion capable of sending forth in alternate +measure the shrillest cries which the human larynx is capable of emitting. +Thus may the pair better vaunt their wares, compel attention, and attract +notice. The same objects, at any rate the latter two, influence an author, +and not only in all cases, it would seem, when he is actually engaged in +writing. So our expeditions, now to be described, may be looked upon as +material for contrast, and may be skipped if thought fit—at any rate by +purchasers—without risk of wounding the writer’s feelings. + +(M114) + +Some years ago we were travelling over that district of the Alps which to +the true lover of mountain scenery can never become hackneyed—that is, the +stretch of glacier land between Chamouni and Zermatt, first made known by +Messrs. Foster, Jacomb, Winkfield, and others, and known to mountaineers +as the “high-level route.” We had reached Monvoisin, then, possibly still, +one of the cosiest and most comfortable little inns to be found among the +mountains. An immense variety of first-rate glacier passes of moderate +difficulty lie between this Val de Bagne and the Arolla valley; the Col de +la Serpentine, the Col Gétroz, the Col de Breney, the Col Chermontane, and +others, all of high interest and varied scenery, tempt the walker +according to his powers. We selected on this occasion the Col du Mont +Rouge, having a design on the bold little peak towering just above the +Col, and known as the Ruinette. This peak, it may be at once mentioned, +was ascended for the first time in 1865 by Mr. Edward Whymper, a +mountaineer who has never ceased happily to add to his spoils and trophies +since in all parts of the globe, and who, unlike most of the clan, has +kept in the front rank from the day he first climbed an Alpine slope. + +(M115) + +We arrived soaked through, and with deplorably short tempers, at the hotel +at Monvoisin. Now tobacco has been vaunted as a palliative to persons in +this emotional state. Liquid remedies, described by the vulgar-minded as +“a drop of something short,” or, more tersely, “a wet,” have been +recommended as tending to induce a healthier state of mind. But there is +one specific remedy which never fails, and to this by tacit consent we at +once resorted. + +Even as one touch of nature has been stated, on reliable authority, to +make the whole world kin, so may one touch of a lucifer match, if +discreetly applied beneath well-seasoned logs, induce even in the most +irritable and wearied individual a change of feeling and a calm +contentment. As the logs crackled and spluttered, hissing like angry cats, +so did the prescription purge away, if not the evil humours, at any rate +the ill-humour engendered by sore feet and damp raiment, till it vanished +with the smoke up the chimney. As a matter of actual fact, however, it +ought to be stated that the greater part of the smoke at first made its +way into the room. Before long, assisted by a passable dinner, which acts +on such conditions of mind as do the remedies known to the learned in +medicine as “derivatives,” we waxed monstrous merry. We laughed heartily +at our own jokes, and with almost equal fervour at those of other people—a +very creditable state of feeling, as any who have associated much with +facetiously disposed folk will be ready to acknowledge. As the evening +wore on, and the fire burnt lower, we became more silent and thoughtful, +watching the pale blue and green tongues of flame licking round the +charred logs. There is a pleasure, too, in this state. No one felt +disposed to break the charm of thoughtfulness in the company by throwing +on fresh fuel. The fire had done its work, had helped matters on, had left +things a little better than it found them—an epitome of a good and useful +life. The embers fell together at last, throwing up but a few short-lived +sparks; nothing remained but the recollection of what had been once so +bright, and a heap of ashes—a fit emblem; for one of the party who was the +life and soul of the expedition can never again join in body with us in +the Alps, or revisit those Alpine midlands he loved so keenly. We rose +from our seats and threw back the curtains from the window. The mists had +vanished, and with them all doubt and all uncertainty, while the stream of +light from the full moon seemed a promise of peace and rest from +elsewhere. + +(M116) + +At an early period of a walk there is always the greatest objection to +putting forth exertion, the result of which has almost immediately to be +undone. That man is indeed robust, and possessed of three times the +ordinary amount of brass, if he fails not to find it distasteful to walk +up a hill at the end of an expedition, or down one at the commencement. +The drawback to the commanding position of the hotel at Monvoisin lies in +the fact that it is absolutely necessary to descend the hill to begin +with, which always seems a sinful waste of energy, seeing that the grass +slopes opposite, which are steep, have immediately afterwards to be +climbed. The natural grass steps looked inviting, but in the language of +the Portuguese dialogue book we found them all either “too long or much +short.” One ascent over a grass slope is very much like another, and +description in detail would be as wearisome as the slopes themselves often +prove. Yet it is worthy of notice that there is an art to be acquired even +in climbing grass slopes. We had more than one opportunity on the present +occasion of seeing that persons look supremely ridiculous if they stumble +about, and we noticed also that, like a bowler when he has delivered a +long hop to the off for the third time in one over, the stumbler +invariably inspects the nails in his boots, a proceeding which deceives no +one. It is quite easy to judge of a man’s real mountaineering capacity by +the way in which he attacks a steep grass slope. The unskilful person, who +fancies himself perfectly at home amongst the intricacies of an ice-fall, +will often candidly admit that he never can walk with well-balanced +equilibrium on grass, a form of vegetable which, it might be thought in +many instances of self-sufficient mountaineers, would naturally suit them. +There is often real danger in such places, and not infrequently the wise +man will demand the use of the rope, especially when there are any tired +members among the party. There is no better way of learning how to +preserve a proper balance on a slope than by practising on declivities of +moderate steepness, and it is astonishing to find how often those who +think they have little to learn, or, still worse, believe that there is +nothing to learn, will find themselves in difficulties on a mountain-side, +and forced to realise that they have got themselves into a rather +humiliating position. We may have seen before now, all of us, +distinguished cragsmen to whom an ascent of the Weisshorn or Matterhorn +was but a mere stroll, utterly pounded in botanical expeditions after +Edelweiss, and compelled to regain a position of security by very +ungraceful sprawls, or, worse still, have to resort to the unpardonable +alternative of asking for assistance. It is on such places that the skill +born of constant practice is best shown in the peasant as contrasted with +the amateur; but the latter could easily acquire the art, were he not, as +a rule, too high and mighty to do so. It is a great point, too, if the +expedition is to be thoroughly enjoyed, to transport one’s self over the +earlier part of the day’s climb with the least possible amount of +exertion. The art possibly resembles that which, I am told, is acquired by +those of ill-regulated minds, whom the force of circumstances and the +interests of society compel to exercise themselves for a certain number of +hours daily in that form of unproductive labour exemplified in the machine +known as the treadmill. No doubt the very ardent mountaineer might find +that facilities would be accorded to him during such time as he cannot +visit the Alps of practising this art in the manner indicated. + +(M117) + +Before long, the smooth unbroken snow slope leading up to the Col du Mont +Rouge, glistening like a sheet of amber-coloured satin in the light of +early dawn, came into sight. One of the party, who had complained +throughout of the slow pace at which he had been going, and who was +already far ahead, now went through a singular performance. Conceiving +that he would stimulate us to greater exertion by displaying his own +agility, he suddenly shot forth, as an arrow from the bow, and ran at +great speed on to the snow slope. But he had misjudged the hardness of the +snow. It fell out, therefore, that after two or three curious flounders +his limbs suddenly shot out to all points of the compass. A desperate +effort to recall his members under control resulted only in his suddenly +coiling up into a little round ball, like a spider in a state of +nervousness, and in that shape descending with considerable momentum, and +not a few bumps, down the slope over some knobby stones and on to a +fortunately placed little grass ledge. When we joined him a few minutes +later, he observed unblushingly that he had found a capital place for +breakfast. So have I seen a skater, after performing a few exercises of a +somewhat violent nature, resembling the dances performed by nigger +minstrels wearing excessively long boots, suddenly sit down and instantly +adjust a perfectly correctly applied strap. On resuming our journey the +agile member was firmly secured with a rope, for fear, as we told him, +that he should become possessed with a sudden idea to hunt for a suitable +place for luncheon by resorting to his previous tactics. Somewhat +crestfallen, he took a place in the rear of the caravan, and condescended +to make use of the little notches scraped out by the leader in the hard +snow. + +(M118) + +A few minutes later the full sunlight of early morning burst upon us, and +produced, as it always does on such occasions, a feeling of supreme +contempt for those slothful individuals who had not got up as early as we +had. This moment of exhilaration is often the very best of a whole +expedition, and is apt to lead, I know not why, to an ebullition of +feeling, which usually takes the form of horse-play and practical joking. +A series of gentle slopes led us up to the Col. Our ascent took us +gradually round the base of the Ruinette, and we cast anxious glances to +our right to see if any practicable line of rocks could be made out. The +mountain is tolerably steep from this side, but the rocks are broken and +were bare of snow. On the summit of the Col the party divided, the agile +person and some of the others deciding that they would go straight on to +Arolla, while Burgener and I bespoke the services of the porter, and made +straight for the long buttress of rock running down almost directly to the +Col on the north-west face of the mountain. Half an hour’s complicated +scrambling resulted in our attaining a little level plateau of rock on the +ridge. As we looked down on to the great snow-field from which the Gétroz +glacier takes its origin, we perceived, far away, the forms of our +companions looking like a flight of driven grouse about a quarter of a +minute after the sportsman has missed them with both barrels. No doubt +they were enjoying themselves thoroughly, but from our point of view the +sight of some four or five individuals walking along at ten-foot intervals +with bowed heads and plodding gait did not suggest any very consummate +pleasure. Rejoicing, therefore, that they were making nice tracks for us +to follow later in the day, we turned again to the rocks above. Following +always the ridge, we clambered straight up, and found opportunities for +very pretty gymnastics (that is, from our own point of view) on this part +of the mountain. Our object was to select rocks that would give good +practice in climbing, rather than to pick out the easiest possible line, +and as a result we got into more than one difficult place, difficult +enough at any rate to demand much conversation on the part of the guides. +In about three hours from the Col we found ourselves looking over the +arête on to the southern side of the mountain with a very compact and +varied view in all directions. Close by, the long ridge of the Serpentine +formed a fine foreground, and a wide expanse of glacier district made up a +tolerably wild panorama. A few minutes’ climbing along the crest landed us +above a deep notch filled in with soft snow. Into this we plunged, and in +another minute or two stood on the summit of the Ruinette. So far as we +knew at the time, the mountain had not previously been ascended from the +northern side, and, indeed, the peak does not appear to be visited nearly +so often as it deserves. Following for the most part the same line as that +taken during the ascent, we regained, in about a couple of hours, the Col. +Here we hunted diligently, seeking what we might devour, and feeling sure +that our friends would have left us something as a reward for our energy. +It transpired, however, subsequently, that the agile person’s exertions +had provoked in him such an appetite that there was little if anything to +leave, so we followed the tracks laid out in the snow, noticing with some +concern that one member of the previous party had sunk at every step some +eighteen inches deeper into the soft compound than anybody else. By the +marks on the snow we perceived, also, that he had trailed his axe along by +his side, a sure sign of weariness. By sunset we had gained the Pas de +Chévres, and ran gaily down the gentle slope towards the hotel. A little +distance from the building we came so suddenly upon a manly form, +outstretched, like a stranded star-fish, on a mossy bank, that we almost +leaped upon his stomach. Yet he moved not, and was apparently wrapped in +slumber. We stopped and crept cautiously up to survey him more closely. It +was the agile person. + + + + + 2. _A Little Maiden._ + + +(M119) + +In the old days of mountaineering, Saas was a place more often talked +about than visited. The beauty of the scenery around was indeed +unquestionable, the number of expeditions of every degree of difficulty +seemed almost without limit, first-rate guides could be obtained with +ease, and yet there was never any difficulty in finding quarters in the +hotels. In ascending the main valley from Visp the great stream of +travellers divided at Stalden into a large stream that made its way to +Zermatt and a little rivulet that meandered along the much finer valley +towards Saas and the Mattmark. It thus fell out that, notwithstanding a +small body of indefatigable mountaineers had explored the higher peaks and +passes on both sides of the valley with tolerable completeness, there was +left a considerable number of smaller expeditions capable of providing +good amusement for the climber desirous of acquiring fame or of exploring +the less known districts. In these days, when the soaring ambition of +mountaineers has led them to climb heights far greater than any found in +the Alps, an account of an expedition of an unimportant peak may seem out +of place. Indeed, its details were so devoid of sensational incident that +the recital may be dull; but, as will appear directly, that is not the +writer’s fault; at any rate, he ventures to give it, for the same reason +that invariably prompts youthful authors to write unnecessary books; that +is, as they say in their preface, to supply a want long felt—a want, it +may be stated, usually felt in their own pockets and nowhere else. + +With every respect to the older generation of mountaineers, they are much +to blame in one matter. The stock of Alpine jokes is scanty; indeed, a +well-read author can get them all, with a little arrangement, into the +compass of one short description of a day in the mountains. Again, the +number of Alpine subjects lending themselves to facetiousness is but +small. The supply has been proved beyond question entirely inadequate to +meet the demand, but former writers have recklessly drawn on this limited +stock and entirely exhausted the topics, if not the readers. Some +allowance may therefore be made when the position is considered, and it is +realised that the writer is endeavouring to patch together a fabric with +materials almost too threadbare for use, and that he is compelled wholly +to pass by such attractive topics as the early start and consequent +ill-temper, the dirty porter, the bergschrund, the use of tobacco, or the +flea. The last-mentioned beast is in fact now universally prohibited from +intrusion into polite Alpine literature; he has had his day. But why? he +has surely some right to the place. An eminent French composer(6) has +written a ballad in his honour; but though, as old Hans Andersen wrote, he +was much thought of at one time, and occupied a high position, seeing that +he was in the habit of mixing with the human race, and might even have +royal blood in his veins, yet he is now deposed. I cannot forbear from +paying a last tribute to the memory of a departing, though formerly +constant, companion. To find oneself obliged to cut the acquaintance of a +friend whom I have fed with my own hand must give rise to some qualms. + +Unfortunately, too, the older writings are too well known of many to be +dished up again in altered form, like a Sunday dinner in the suburbs; so +that even the most common form of originality, videlicet, forgetfulness of +the source from which you are borrowing, is forbidden. Plagiarism is a +crime that seldom is allowed to pass undetected. There are many people in +this world possessed of such a small amount of originality themselves, +that they spend their whole time in searching for the want of that quality +in others. The human inhabitants of the ark, unless they made the most of +their unexampled opportunities for the study of natural history, must have +become desperately bored with each other, and no doubt, when set free, +said all the good things, each in their own independent nucleus of +commencing society, which they had heard while immured. On the whole, it +is fortunate for writers that the period known as the dark ages came to +pass; it allowed those who commenced their career on this side of the +hiatus to make, on the old lines, a perfectly fresh start. + +(M120) + +Perhaps no country in the world has had the minute topography of its +uninhabited districts so thoroughly worked out as Switzerland. Beyond +question the orography is more accurately given than anywhere else; in +this respect, indeed, no other country can compare with it. It might seem, +even to those who have studied the matter, almost impossible to find any +corner of the Alps that has not been described; and the discovery that a +few superficial square yards of Swiss territory, arranged on an incline, +had not been discussed in detail came upon the writer with somewhat of a +shock. It was clearly somebody’s duty to rectify the omission and fill the +gap; whether the expedition was of importance from any point of view, or +whether any one in the wide world had the smallest desire to read a +description of it, was a matter of no moment whatever. There was a vacuum, +and it was a thing abhorrent. The mountain, to which reference is made +above, lies east of Saas, and is known to such of the inhabitants as have +any knowledge of geography as the Portienhorn. Substantially this peak is +the highest point of a long rocky ridge running north and south, and +called the Portien Grat. + +(M121) + +One fine evening we sat outside the inn at Saas just before dinner, +seriously discussing the prospect of climbing this mountain. The guides +were of opinion that we ought to sleep out, and surmised that the rocks +might be found much more difficult than they looked. With some reluctance +on our part their views were allowed to prevail on the point, and they +started off in triumph, promising to return and report when all the +necessary preparations for starting should be completed, while we went in +to prepare ourselves for the next day by an early dinner. The inn in those +days was somewhat rude, and the cuisine was not remarkable save for the +extraordinary faculty possessed by the chef for cooking anything that +happened to come in his way, and reducing it all to the same level of +tastelessness. On the present occasion, however, stimulated, no doubt, by +certain critical rebukes, he had determined to surpass himself. Towards +the end of the repast, as we sat chewing some little wooden toothpicks, +which were found to have more flavour than anything else placed on the +table, we heard the chef cross the yard and go into a certain little +outhouse. A few minutes later a subtle and delicate aroma made its way +into the apartment, leading us, after a few interrogative sniffs, to get +up and close the window. Gradually the savour became more pronounced, and +one of the party gave expression to his opinion that there was now +satisfactory proof of the accuracy of his constant statement that the +drains were out of order. Gradually intensifying, the savour assumed the +decided character of a smell, and we looked out of window to see in which +direction the cemetery lay. Stronger and stronger grew the perception as +steps came mounting up the stairs; the door opened, and all doubt was set +at rest as the chef entered, bearing proudly a large cheese. In a moment, +to his dismay, he was left undisputed master of the apartment. + +(M122) + +We left Saas equipped as for a serious expedition. A stout rustic, who was +the most preternaturally ugly man I ever saw, led the way; he had a very +large mouth and an odd-shaped face, so that he resembled a frog with a +skewer wedged across inside his cheeks. On his back he bore a bag full of +very spiky straw, which the guides said was a mattress. In about an hour’s +time we arrived at a carelessly built chalet on the Almagel Alp, of which +the outside was repulsive and the inside revolting. But the experienced +mountaineer, on such occasions, is not easily put out, and exhibits very +little astonishment at anything he may see, and none at anything that he +may smell. The hut consisted of a single apartment, furnished with a +fireplace and a bed. The fireplace was situated in the centre of the room; +the couch was separated by a dilapidated hoarding from a shed tenanted by +a cow of insatiable appetite—indeed, it may have been originally designed +as a manger. The bed, which accommodated apparently the family of the +tenant, was found on actual measurement to be forty-eight inches in length +and twenty in width; nevertheless the two guides packed themselves into +it, adopting in their recumbent position the theory that if you keep your +head and your feet warm you are all right. By the flickering gleams of +firelight it could be perceived through the smoke that these were the only +portions of their frames actually in the bed owing to its excessive +shortness; but guides share, with babies in perambulators, a happy faculty +of being able to sleep peacefully whatever be the position of their heads. +The dispossessed family of the tenant would not submit, notwithstanding +strong remarks, to summary eviction, and watched our proceedings with much +interest. It was pointed out to them that curiosity was a vicious quality, +that it had been defined as looking over other people’s affairs and +overlooking one’s own, and that, on the whole, they had better retire, +which they did reluctantly, to a little shed in which was a large copper +pot with other cheese-making accessories. Apparently they spent the night +in scouring the copper pot. + +The mattress proved to be so tightly packed that it was easier, on the +whole, to lie awake under it than to sleep on the top of it, and less +painful. About 4 A.M. one of the guides incautiously moved his head, and +having thus disturbed his equilibrium fell heavily on to the floor. +Thereupon he woke up and said it was time to start. We bade a cheerful +adieu to our host, who was obtaining such repose as could be got by the +process of leaning against the doorpost, and made our way upwards. + +On the south side of the Portienhorn a long and rough rocky ridge, +preserving a tolerably uniform height, extends as far as the Sonnighorn. +Ultimately the ridge, still running in a southerly direction, curves +slightly round to the west up to the Monte Moro, and thus forms the head +of the Saas valley. There are several unimportant peaks in this ridge +perhaps equally worthy, with the Portienhorn, of a place in literature; +but of all the points south of the Weissmies this Portienhorn is perhaps +the most considerable, and certainly the most difficult of access. At any +rate, we climbed the peak, and this is how we did it. + +(M123) + +It was clear that the southern ridge was more feasible than the northern +one, which drops to a col known as the Zwischbergen Pass, and then rises +again to merge into the mass of the Weissmies. The whole of the western +slope of the Portienhorn is covered by the Rothblatt Glacier, the ice of +which is plastered up against its sides. We kept to the left of the +termination of this glacier, and after a brief look round turned our steps +away from the rock buttress forming the northern boundary of the glacier, +though we were of opinion that we might by this line ascend the mountain; +but we nevertheless selected the southern ridge, on the same principle +that the sportsman, perfectly capable of flying across any obstacle, +however high, sometimes, out of consideration no doubt for his horse, +elects to follow somebody else through a gap. In good time we reached a +point about halfway up the side of the mountain, and halted at the upper +edge of a sloping patch of snow. It was fortunate that we had ample time +to spare, for considerable delay was experienced here. Burgener had become +newly possessed of a remarkable knife, which he was perpetually taking out +of his pocket and admiring fondly; in fact, it provided material for +conversation to the guides for the whole day. The knife was an intricate +article, and strikingly useless, being weak in the joints; but +nevertheless Burgener was vastly proud of the weapon, and valued it as +much as an ugly man does a compliment. In the middle of breakfast the +treasure suddenly slipped out of his hand, and started off down the slope. +With a yell of anguish he bounded off after it, and went down the rocks in +a manner and at a pace that only a guide in a state of excitement can +exhibit. The incident was trivial, but it impressed on me the +extraordinary powers of sure-footedness and quickness on rocks that a good +guide possesses. An amateur might have climbed after these men the whole +day, and have thought that he was nearly as good as they, but he could no +more have gone down a couple of hundred feet as this guide did without +committing suicide, than he could have performed a double-three backwards +the first time he put on skates. He might, indeed, have gone backwards, +but he would not have achieved his double-three. Turning northwards the +moment we were on the arête, we made our way, with a good deal of +scrambling, upwards. The rocks were firm and good, and, being dry, gave no +great difficulty. Still they were far from easy, and now and again there +were short passages sufficiently troublesome to yield the needed charm to +a mountain climb, difficult enough at any rate to make us leave our axes +behind and move one at a time. But how have the times altered since our +expedition was made! Nowadays such a climb would be more fitly mentioned +casually after dinner as “a nice little walk before church,” “a capital +after-breakfast scramble,” “a stroll strongly recommended to persons of an +obese habit,” and so forth. Nevertheless, there is a very distinct +pleasure in climbing up a peak of this sort—greater, perhaps, than may be +found on many of the more highly rated, formidable, and, if the truth be +told, fashionable mountains; for the expedition was throughout +interesting, and the contrast between the view to the west where the +Mischabelhörner reared up their massive forms, and to the east looking +towards Domo d’Ossola and the Italian lake district, was one to repay a +climber who has eyes as well as limbs. The crest was in places tolerably +sharp, and we were forced at times to adopt the expedient, conventionally +supposed to be the only safe one in such cases, of bestriding the rock +edge. It should be stated, however, that, as usual on such occasions, when +we desired to progress we discarded this position, and made our way +onwards in the graceful attitude observed at the seaside in those who are +hunting on the sand for marine specimens. And thus we arrived ultimately +at the top, where we gave way to a properly regulated amount of subdued +enthusiasm, proportionate to the difficulty and height of the vanquished +mountain. No trace of previous travellers could be found on the summit. It +was a maiden ascent. Doubtless the mythical and ubiquitous chamois-hunter +had been up before us, for at the time I write of the district was noted +for chamois; but even if he had, it makes no difference. We have found it +long since necessary to look upon ascents stated to have been made by +chamois-hunters as counting for nothing, and in the dearth of new peaks in +the Alps, have to resort to strange devices and strained ideas for +novelty. Thus, a mountain in the present day can be the means of bringing +glory and honour to many climbers. For instance:— + +A climbs it First ascent. +B ascends it First recorded ascent. +C goes up it First ascent from the other side. +D combines A and C’s First time that the peak has been “colled.” + expedition +E scrambles up the First ascent by the E.N.E. arête. + wrong way +F climbs it in the First ascent by an Englishman, or first + ordinary way ascent without guides. +G is dragged up by his First real ascent; because all the others + guides were ignorant of the topographical details, + and G’s peak is nearly three feet higher than + any other point. + +Many more might be added; probably in the future many more will, for, in +modern mountaineering phrase, the Portienhorn “goes all over.” By 4 P.M. +we were back again in the Saas valley. + +It seems, as I write, only yesterday that all this happened. But a regular +revolution has really taken place. There can be no question, I think, that +fewer real mountaineers are to be found in the old “playground” than +formerly. Still, there are not wanting climbers, all of them apparently of +the first rank. For among the high Alps now, even as on the dramatic stage +of to-day, there are no amateurs. + +(M124) + +A curious human fungus that has grown up suddenly of late is the +emancipated schoolboy spoken of by a certain, principally feminine, clique +of admirers as “such a wonderful actor, you know.” Very learned is he in +the technicalities of the stage. The perspiring audience in the main +drawing-room he alludes to as “those in front.” He knows what “battens” +are, and “flies,” and “tormentors,” and “spider-traps.” He endeavours to +imitate well-known actors, but does not imitate the laborious process by +which these same artists arrive at successful results. But we all know +him, and are aware also, at any rate by report, of his overweening vanity, +and the manner in which he intrudes his conception of “Hamlet” or +“Richelieu” on a longsuffering public. Without the slightest knowledge +technically of how to walk, talk, sit down, go off, or come on, he rushes +on the boards possessed solely of such qualifications for his task as may +arise in a brain fermenting with conceit. Critics he regards as persons +existing solely for the purpose of crushing him, and showing ill-tempered +hostility born of envy. The judicious, if they accept and weakly avail +themselves of orders, can but grieve and marvel that there should exist +that curious state of folly which prompts a man to exhibit it before the +world, or even to thrust it upon his fellow-creatures. Some men are born +foolish—a pity, no doubt, but the circumstances are beyond their own +control; some achieve a reputation for lack of wisdom, and even make it +pay; but some thrust their folly on others, and to such no quarter need be +given. The self-constituted exponent of a most difficult art is not a whit +more ridiculous than the boy or man who rushes at a difficult peak before +he has learnt the elements of mountaineering science. A man may become a +good amateur actor if he will consent to devote his leisure to +ascertaining what there is to learn, and trying to learn it; and a man may +become a good mountaineer by adopting the same line of action. But this is +rarely the case. Too often they forget that, as a late president of the +Alpine Club remarked, “life is a great opportunity, not to be thrown away +lightly.” It is said sometimes by unreflecting persons that such +institutions as the Alpine Club are responsible for the misfortunes and +calamities that have arisen from time to time, and may still arise. But +there has been a good example set if recruits would only turn to it; for +the mountaineers in the old style, speaking of a generation that climbs +but little in these days, did what it is the fashion now to call their +“work” thoroughly—too thoroughly and completely, perhaps, to please +altogether their successors. Novelty in the mountains of Switzerland may +be exhausted, but there are still too many expeditions of which, because +they have been done once or twice, the danger is not adequately +recognised. If these remarks, written in no captious spirit, but rather +with the strongest desire to lay stress on truths that are too often +ignored, should lead any aspiring but unpractised mountaineer to pause and +reflect before he tries something beyond his strength and capabilities, +some little good will at least have been done. It is not that the rules +are unknown; they are simple, short, ready to hand, and intelligible; but +the penalty that may be exacted for breaking any of them is a terribly +heavy one—_absit omen._ + + + + + + CHAPTER VIII. + + + A SENTIMENTAL ALPINE JOURNEY + + + Long “waits” and entr’actes—The Mont Buet as an unknown + mountain—We hire carriages—A digression on a stationary vehicle—A + straggling start—The incomplete moralist—The niece to the + moralist—A discourse on gourmets—An artistic interlude—We become + thoughtful, and reach the height of sentiment and the top of the + Mont Buet—Some other members of the party—The mountaineers + perform—How glissading ambition did o’erleap itself—A vision on + the summit—The moralist leaves us for a while—Entertainment at the + Bérard Chalet—View of the Aiguille Verte—The end of the journey. + + +A fair critic—in the matter of sex—discussing a recently published work +with the author, remarked that it was the most charming book she had ever +read. “I was told it would not interest me,” she remarked most seriously +to him, “but really I found it delightful: there are such lovely wide +margins to the pages, you know.” On much the same principle a highly +intelligent lady, noted for her theatrical discrimination, once remarked +that she liked those theatres best which afforded the longest entr’actes. +So in the Alps we felt from time to time the necessity, between the more +stirring episodes resulting from higher mountaineering, to interpose minor +expeditions, on which no less care and thought was often lavished to make +them worthy of pursuit. These were our entr’actes. Of such expeditions it +is customary to say that they are the most enjoyable of any undertaken. +Without going so far as this, it may be conceded that they have a pleasure +of their own, and it is at least no more difficult to discover a novel +form of sub-Alpine expedition than to vary the details of a big climb. One +of these episodes, undertaken while we were barred from the higher +mountains by a fall of snow, consisted in a night attack on the Mont Buet. + +(M125) + +Now the Mont Buet, although it lies close to the regular highway to +Chamouni from the Rhone valley, is a peak but rarely even seen of the +ordinary tourist; and, considering the numbers of our countrymen that +flock to the village whence they imagine that they see the summit of Mont +Blanc, the English folk who make the ascent are strangely few. Yet the +walk is not a laborious one; not more fatiguing, for example, than the +tramp from Martigny to Chamouni over the Col de Balme on a hot day. +Fashion in the mountains is very conservative, and probably it is too late +in the day now to hope that this mountain will ever gain all the +reputation it deserves, for, though comparatively unknown, its praises +have been by no means left unsung. Possibly the lowness of the guides’ +tariff for the peak may have something to do with the matter, and may +serve to explain why it is so much left out in the cold; for this is a +very potent agent in determining the attractiveness of special localities. +How many go to Chamouni, and never wander along one of the most beautiful +sylvan paths in the Alps, that leads to the Glacier des Bossons through +the woods, where the view, as the spectator suddenly finds himself +confronted with the huge stream of pure glacier, topped by a most +magnificent ice-fall, and backed by the crags of the Aiguille du Midi, +compares by no means unfavourably with the more frequently photographed +panorama from the Montanvert. Ask a dozen persons at haphazard who are +staying at Chamouni where the Mont Buet is, and ten out of the number will +be unable to answer you. But the pictures hung on the line are not +invariably the best in an exhibition; and the Mont Buet is a masterpiece, +so to speak, “skied.” + +(M126) + +Our party that summer at Chamouni was a large one, for we had stayed a +long time in the hotel, and knew, as the phrase goes, a great many to +speak to—quite a different thing to answering for them. We conceived the +plan of so timing our modest expedition as to arrive on the summit of the +Mont Buet about sunset. It was agreed by some members of the party that it +would be “such fun, you know,” to come down in the dark. The inference to +be gathered from this is that the party was not exclusively composed of +the male sex. Two of us, reputed to be good at a bargain, were deputed to +charter carriages to convey the members of the expedition up to +Argentière, where the ascent commenced. The carriages of Chamouni, though +no doubt practical and well suited to the mountain roads, were not found +to be of uniform excellence. Availing ourselves of a proper introduction, +we made the temporary acquaintance of an individual interested officially +in vehicular traffic, who possessed that remarkable insight into character +noticeable in all who are concerned with horses, and knew exactly what we +wanted without any preliminary explanation on our part. “Voilà votre +affaire,” he said, and indicated a machine that would have been out of +date when the first _char-à-banc_ was constructed. We inquired if the +somewhat unsavoury load (it had, apparently, been in recent requisition +for farming purposes) which the cart contained might be removed, and he +said there was no objection to this. “See,” said the proprietor, “the +seats have backs.” “But they tip up,” we remonstrated. “That is nothing,” +rejoined the proprietor; “they can be tied down: the carriage is good, and +has gone many miles. However, Monsieur is evidently particular; he shall +be satisfied. Behold!” and the proprietor threw open the creaking door of +a shed, and revealed to our gaze a pretentious landau with faded linings +and wheels which did not seem to be circular. This “machine,” he assured +us, it would be hard to equal for locomotive purposes. Two strange beasts +were connected to it, chiefly, as it seemed, by bits of string. One of the +animals was supported on two very puffy hind legs and two very tremulous +fore-legs, and seemed perpetually on the point of going down on its knees +to supplicate that it might be allowed to go no further. Its companion was +a horse of the most gloomy nature, that no amount of chastisement could +stir from a despondent and pensive frame of mind. Both these treasures had +a capacity for detecting an upward incline that was marvellously acute. +Then there was a structure like a magnified perambulator, of which one +wheel was afflicted with a chronic propensity for squeaking, while the +other described a curious serpentine track as it rolled along. Not being, +however, in any particular hurry, we decided to avail ourselves of such +assistance as these vehicles might afford, and did, as a matter of fact, +ultimately reach our destination, if not in, at least with them. + +(M127) + +From Argentière we followed the familiar track of the Tête Noire for some +little distance, and then bore away to the left up the valley leading +towards the Bérard Chalet. The party, which had kept well together for the +first few minutes after parting with the carriages, were soon straggling +off in every direction, and the chief organiser of the expedition, +desperately anxious lest some should go astray and be no more found, ran +to and fro from one little group to another, and got into a highly +excitable frame of mind, like a busily minded little dog when first taken +out for a walk. Chief among the more erratic members was an elderly person +who had, unwisely, been asked to join the party for no very definite +reason, but because some one had said that it would be obviously +incomplete without him. The old gentleman had no previous experience of +mountain walks, but had very complete theories on the subject. He had made +great preparations for his day’s climb, had carefully dieted himself the +day previously, and was not a little proud of his equipment and attire. He +was furnished with a spiked umbrella, a green tin box, and a particularly +thin pair of boots; for he wished to prove the accuracy of a theory that +man, being descended from the apes, might properly use his feet as +prehensile members, and he held that this additional aid would prove +valuable on rocks. It was currently reported, notwithstanding his +loquacity, that he was a very wise person, and indeed he dropped hints +himself, which he was much annoyed if we did not take, on the subject of a +projected literary work. We were given to understand that the publishers +were all hankering after the same, and he had a manner in conversation of +tentatively quoting passages and watching eagerly for the effects. He was +known to us as the incomplete moralist, and proved to be a very didactic +person. + +(M128) + +But this was not all; there was one other member of the party, who may be +described, as in the old-fashioned list of the “Dramatis Personæ,” as +“niece to the moralist.” Somehow or another, she seemed to lead +everything; instinctively all gave way to her wishes, and even the chief +organiser looked to her for confirmation of his opinions before +enunciating them with decision. Bright, impulsive, wilful, she led the +moralist, subjectively speaking, whither she would, and he had no chance +at all. “She ought not to have come at all on such an expedition,” he +said, looking at the light, fragile form ahead; “but you know you can’t +persuade a butterfly to take systematic exercise, and everything seems to +give her so much pleasure;” and here the moralist looked rather wistful, +and somehow the artificiality seemed to fade away from him for the moment. +“Such of us,” he resumed, “as stay long enough in this world cease to have +much hopefulness; and when that quality shows up too strong in the young, +such as that child yonder, somehow I don’t think they often——” Here he +paused abruptly, and, selecting a meat lozenge from a store in his tin +box, put it into his mouth and apparently swallowed it at once; at any +rate, he gulped down something. It must be allowed that the moralist had +done his best to prevent his charge from accompanying the party. She had +been reminded of what learned doctors had said, that she was not to exert +herself; that certain persons, vaguely alluded to, would be very angry, +and so forth. The moralist had been talked down in two minutes. He might +as well have pointed out to the little budding leaflets the unwisdom of +mistaking warm days in March for commencing summer; and, finally, he had +surrendered at discretion, fencing himself in with some stipulations as to +warm cloaks, “this once only,” and the like, which he knew would not be +attended to. So she came, and her eager brightness shed a radiance over +the most commonplace objects, and infected the most prosaic of the party, +even a young lady of varied accomplishments, who distinguished herself +later on. After all, if the flame burned a little more brightly at the +expense of a limited stock of fuel, was there anything to regret? Tone +down such brightness as hers was, and you have but an uncut diamond, or a +plant that may possibly last a little longer because its blossom, its +fruit, and with them its beauties, have been cut off to preserve the dull +stem to the utmost. Check the natural characteristics and outflow of such +natures, and you force them to the contemplation of what is painful and +gloomy. You bring them back fully to this world, and it is their greatest +privilege to be but half in it, and to have eyes blind to the seamy side. +The Alpine rose-glow owes its fascination to the fact that we know it will +soon fade. So is it with these natures. They are to be envied. We may hold +it truth with him who sings, “Better fifty years of Europe than a cycle of +Cathay.” But the parallel is not strictly true: the brightness will not +fade, but will be there to the end, and the streak of sadness running +through it all gives the fascination. So the wit that approaches nearest +to pathos touches us most deeply, and is one of the rarest of intellectual +talents. With what a thrill of mixed, but yet pleasurable, sensation do we +recall the timely jest of a lost friend. But all this has nothing to do +with a holiday expedition in the Alps. Still, it must be remembered, we +were on a sentimental journey in the mountains. + +Before long the chief organiser, seizing an opportunity when most of the +stragglers were within earshot, announced at the top of his voice that +luncheon would be served on certain flat rocks. This had the immediate +effect of uniting our scattered forces. The first to arrive (the moralist +was slow of foot) were some gallant members of the high mountaineering +fraternity, who throughout the day evinced astounding activity, and an +unwonted desire to carry burdens on their backs. Secretly they were +burning with an ambition to display their prowess on some “mauvais pas,” +or glissade, an ambition rewarded later on in a somewhat remarkable +manner. The rock was spread, the moralist selected a comfortable place, +and, stimulated by the appearance of the viands, favoured us with certain +extracts. + +(M129) + +“There are many,” he observed, holding a large piece of pie to his mouth +and eyeing it to select an appropriate place for the next bite, “who hold +that the sense of taste is not one to which we should much minister. I do +not hold with such;” and here he found the right spot, and for a minute or +two the thread of his discourse was broken off. “The painter blends +colours to please the sense of sight; the musician studies harmonies of +sound to please the ear; each appeals to but one of our imperfect senses, +and yet we think much of them for so doing; we compliment them, and give +them the appellation of artists. Now the worthy person who dexterously +compounded this article, of which, alas! I hold now but little in my hand, +appeals not to a single but to a twofold sense; he ministers alike to +taste and to smell, and I must own, after a toilsome walk, with +commendable results. He is an artist in the highest sense of the word; his +merits, to my thinking, are but inadequately recognised in this world. I +am convinced that they will be more so in another. The gourmet’s paradise +shall provide for him a cherubic state of existence; then shall he have +all the pleasure that the palate can afford without any ill-omened presage +of subsequent discomfort; for, thrice happy that he will be, digestion +will be an anatomical impossibility.” It may be remarked parenthetically +that the possession of a gigantic brain had not obviated, in the case of +the moralist, the deleterious effects of sour wine. But the moralist was +not, as yet, much of a cherub. + +As the speaker showed unmistakable signs of continuing his discourse, +which had been chiefly directed at a youth of whom we only knew that he +was some one’s brother, if the opportunity were afforded, a sudden and +general move was made, and the proposal that a short adjournment should +take place previous to resuming our upward journey found instant favour. +The chief organiser was by common consent left to pack up. Straightway the +ladies all produced little sketch-books, and fell very vigorously to +recording their impressions of the scenery around; whilst the moralist, +already somewhat stiff, wandered from one group to the other and favoured +them with his suggestions. The result of half an hour’s work with pencil +and brush was to produce diagrams of certain objects which looked +uncommonly like telegraph poles with cross bars attached, but which were +coloured of a vivid green, and were thus obviously intended for fir trees. +The moralist, not finding that his remarks were met with much favour by +the artists, selected an ascetic who sat apart from the others, and +delivered his next discourse into his inattentive but uncomplaining ear. + +(M130) + +“It seems strange to me,” he remarked, “that those who are wholly unable +to depict, even in the most elementary manner, the commonplace objects +around them, are for ever seen in the Alps striving after the most +impossible art problems. If so great a stimulus is needed, a poor result +may be confidently anticipated.” (Here the moralist made a fourth attempt +to light a very curious native cigar.) “If it takes the sight of Nature in +her sublimest phase, as seen in the Alps, to stimulate our friends here to +show their art, why, then they haven’t much of it. A milestone should be +sufficient for the purpose, but it seems that they require a Matterhorn; +and it may be gathered, from what I have heard you and your companions +say, that what is true of Alpine art is true also of Alpine climbing, and +that the _dilettanti_ will never take the trouble to learn how much there +is to learn. Our friends here try to paint a glacier, and have not the +most elementary idea of its anatomy. They represent vast panoramas, and +know nothing of distance; they——” But here the moralist, in the excitement +of his discourse, turned a little white, probably from the depth of his +feelings; and, throwing away his cigar, walked off alone, and was +discovered shortly after perspiring a good deal, and crumpled up in a +somewhat limp and helpless state. + +The books were packed up, for the sun was setting low, and the party +wended their way up the steep grass slope till the first great dome of the +Mont Buet came well into sight. Far ahead was the niece, seemingly +unconscious of the effects that the exertion of climbing told on her +slight frame. She was apparently unaware of any companions around, though +watchful eyes and strong hands were always near lest any mischance should +befall. She spoke to no one. Nature absorbed all her faculties as she went +on with cheeks rather flushed, and bright, dilated eyes drinking in every +object and every point of beauty. As an artist in the exercise of his +craft makes the outside world acquainted with beauties ever present to his +eyes, so did the effect on her of the wondrous lights and shades and +colours around call up new thoughts and reveal fresh marvels in the +panorama to others, though well acquainted with such Alpine scenes. The +spell caught one after another, till the whole party, all held by the same +unsuspected fascination, walked silently on, while the majestic splendour +around inspired an awe in the mind that even those most familiar with the +marvels of nature in the mountains had never felt before. The mere +recognition of the fact that the same thought or emotion is passing +simultaneously through the minds of many is in itself so striking, that +the impression so caused will not ever be effaced from the mind. A crowded +hall is waiting for the advent of the orator of the occasion, and there +enters an old man whose name and work were familiar to all. Instantly, and +as if by magic, all present rose to their feet in token of respect. No +word was spoken, no signal given. The matter may seem slight, but the +scene was one that those present will never forget. The most hideous part +of the punishment in the old days to the criminal must have been the +moment when, as he stepped through the last door, the sea of faces below +him upturned simultaneously with a howl of execration. And all these +thoughts were called up by the fact that one consumptive girl was a member +of our mountain party. Well, such was the case, and it made the expedition +different in many ways from any that we had ever undertaken, but not +perhaps the less worthy of remembrance. + +(M131) + +“It looks a long way off,” observed the moralist, gazing despondently +upwards. “Do you say that the object of our expedition is to climb up to +that eminence yonder? I fear lest some of the weaker members of the party +should fail.” (The moralist was now the penultimate member of the party, +the absolute rear being brought up by one of the guides, who was pushing +him up with the head of his axe. The youth to whom he was in the habit of +addressing his discourses had in a revengeful mood offered similar +assistance; but the youth wore such a saturnine look when he made the +suggestion, that it was declined hastily with thanks.) “I think that if I +took a little wine”—here he took all that was left—“this feeling of +disinclination to move might conceivably pass off, and I could then +encourage some of the others on what is clearly to them an arduous +expedition. Ah me! but these little stones are excessively sharp to the +feet; let us turn off on to the snow. I have heard that it is possible to +walk uphill on such a medium, and yet scarce recognise the fact.” By this +time most of the party were well on to the first summit, and the glories +of the sunset, from a point of view which it would be hard to match in all +the mountains, were beginning to display themselves to the full. The +higher we ascended the more did the eternal mass of white snow on the +other side of the valley develop and tower above us. Two or three of the +more active members were floundering in the deep snow along the ridge +uniting the two summits, and finding it, if the truth be told, no small +matter to keep pace with the niece, who skimmed lightly over the surface. +Gallantry and the desire to keep up their reputation forbade that they +should fall to the rear, or allow the rope to tighten unduly; but their +superior mountaineering experience seemed not a little in danger of being +counterbalanced by their superior weight. All over the rocks on the Sixt +side a thin grey veil of mist seemed to hang, making the cliffs appear +still more vertical than nature had moulded them, and tinting the crags at +the same time with a deep purple colour. + + [Illustration: A VISION ON A SUMMIT] + +(M132) + +In the foreground, looking south, the long jagged line of the Aiguilles +Rouges cut off the view into the Chamouni valley, and threw up still +higher and more into relief the minor peaks of the Mont Blanc chain. We +huddled together on the summit, while there seemed hardly time to turn to +all points of the compass to survey the effects. The emotional members of +the party came out strong, and the young lady of varied accomplishments, +who was adjudged by the others to be of poetic temperament, as she was +fond of alluding rather vaguely to unknown Italian geniuses, burst forth +into ecstasies. However, one or two of us had rather lost faith in her +historical knowledge and her profound acquaintance with mediæval art on +hearing her discourse learnedly to the vacuous youth on Savonarola as an +artist of great repute, and on discovering that in the family circle she +was held in submission by an Italianised English governess—discreetly left +at the hotel. A formidable person, this preceptress, of austere demeanour, +with a dyspeptic habit, highly pomatumed ringlets, and evangelistic +tendencies—a triple combination not infrequently met with. Still, no one +paid any attention to the accomplished young lady, for an object in the +foreground of the great picture riveted the gaze of most of us. The niece +had advanced a few steps from the rest of the party, and stood a little +apart on the summit ridge of the mountain, her slight form brought out in +strong relief against the many-tinted sky. The folds of her dress +fluttered back in the light breeze, and the night wind as it came sighing +over the crest had loosened her veil and tossed it upwards. Mechanically +as she raised her hand to draw it back, the thin arm and hand seemed to +point upwards to something beyond what we could see. Instinctively the +others all drew back a few paces, and closed in together as they watched +the motionless form. The sunset glories were more than we could realise, +but somehow we felt that she was gazing with fixed eyes far, far beyond +these—into a pure and passionless region, beyond the mental grasp of the +profoundest theologian depending on his own acquired knowledge. As we +looked, though she moved no limb, her breath came faster and faster. One +or two of us made a start forwards, but at that moment the last red glow +vanished from the belt of fleecy cloud hanging in mid-sky. Lower down, the +limestone cliffs seemed strangely desolate as the icy hand of night spread +over them. The breeze suddenly dropped and died away. She stamped her foot +on the snow, and with a quick movement of the head seemed to come back +again to the scene around. “Let us go,” she said, half petulantly. +Silently the party arranged themselves in order as we wended our way back +along the ridge. We had seen a sight that lingered in the mind, and that +was not easily to be erased from the memory. As we walked along we +gradually drew closer and closer together, prompted by some feeling that +all seemed to share alike—as if the recollection of what we had just seen +had dazed the mind, and brought us face to face with some influence beyond +our ordinary thoughts, and as if with nearer union we should not feel so +powerless and insignificant. But the glories of that sunset from the Mont +Buet, a scene within the reach of all of very moderate walking ability, +were far beyond the power of any language to describe, and beyond the +province of any discreet writer to attempt. The twilight gathered in fast, +and the snow already felt more crisp under foot. The roll-call was held, +and it was discovered that the only absentees were the moralist and his +propelling companion. At this point two of the skilled mountaineers of the +party recognised their opportunity, and were not slow to seize it. +Secretly they had felt that no suitable occasion had hitherto offered of +displaying their prowess, so they volunteered to perform a glissade for +the amusement and instruction of the others. The ladies clapped their +hands gleefully, and the youth, who did not know how to glissade, looked +sinister. Accordingly the skilful ones made their way to a steep snow +slope, and started off with great speed and dexterity, amidst the admiring +plaudits of the less acrobatically minded members. But the course of their +true descent did not run entirely smooth, for before half the downward +journey was accomplished the foremost member was observed suddenly to +propel himself wildly into the air, performing a remarkable antic—similar +to those known of street Arabs as cart-wheels—and the remainder of the +journey to the foot of the slope was performed with about the grace of a +floating log descending a mountain torrent. Nor was this all; the rearmost +man, apparently also possessed by an identical frenzy, leaped forth into +the air at precisely the same spot and in precisely the same manner. Had +it not been that they were known to be highly skilful and adroit +mountaineers the impression might have gained ground that the +circumstances of this part of the descent were not wholly under their own +control. Ever anxious to investigate the true cause of strange +occurrences, to their credit be it said that when they had collected their +wits and emptied their pockets of snow, they mounted up again to the scene +of the disaster, and discovered the explanation in an entirely imaginary +stone, which had, beyond doubt, tripped them up. + +(M133) + +Somewhat crestfallen, the energetic pair rejoined the rest of the troupe +and a search was instituted for the moralist. This worthy was discovered, +astonishingly weary of body but surprisingly active of mind, wedged in a +narrow rocky niche, so that he looked like the figure of a little “Joss” +in the carved model of a Japanese temple. It was found necessary to pull +him vigorously by the legs, in order to straighten out those members +sufficiently for him to progress upon them. However, he seemed to have +more to say about the sunset than anybody else, and his description of the +beauties thereof was so glowing and eloquent, that the idea crossed our +minds that possibly some of the descriptions we had read in Alpine +writings of similar scenes might be as authentic as that with which he +favoured us. “A great point in the Alps,” remarked the moralist, after he +had been securely fastened by a rope to a guide for fear we should lose +him again, so that he looked like a dancing bear—“a great point in walking +amongst the Alps is that we learn to use our eyes and look around us. I +have observed that those who perambulate our native flagstones appear +perpetually to be absorbed in the contemplation of what lies at their +feet. Now here, stimulated by the beauties around, man holds, as he should +do, his head erect, and steps out boldly.” At this point a little delay +was occasioned owing to the abrupt disappearance of the speaker through a +crust of snow. Some curious rumblings below our feet seemed to imply that +he had descended to a considerable depth, and was in great personal +discomfort. In the dim light we could scarcely see what had actually +happened, but concluded to pull vigorously at the rope as the best means +of getting our temporarily absent friend out of his difficulties. This we +succeeded in doing, and a strenuous haul on the cord was rewarded by the +sudden appearance of two boots through the snow-crust at our feet—a +phenomenon so unexpected that we relaxed our efforts, with the result that +the boots immediately disappeared again. A second attempt was more +successful; an arm and a leg this time came to the surface simultaneously, +and the moralist was delivered from the snowy recesses broadside on. We +rearranged his raiment, shook the snow out of the creases of his clothes, +tied a bath towel round his head, which, for some obscure reason, he had +brought with him—the towel, not his head—and harnessed him this time +securely between two members of the party. Possibly from the effects of +his misadventure, he remained silent for some time, or his flow of +conversation may have been hindered by the fact that his supporters ran +him violently down steep places whenever he showed symptoms of commencing +a fresh dissertation. It was no easy task to find the little hut in the +darkness, and it was not until after we had blundered about a good deal +that we caught sight of the beacon light, consisting of a very cheap dip +exhibited in the window, as a sign that entertainment for man and beast +might be found within. The moralist, who was always to the fore when the +subject of refreshment was mentioned, discovered a milking-stool, and +drawing it in great triumph to the best place in front of the stove, sat +down on it, with the immediate result that he was precipitated backwards +into the ash-pan. There we left him, as being a suitable place for +repentance. + +(M134) + +The rest of the party gathered for supper round the festive board, which +was rather uncertain on its legs, and inclined to tip up. Owing to some +miscarriage, the larder of the cabane was not well stocked, and all the +entertainment that could be furnished consisted of one bent-up little +sausage, exceeding black and dry, and a very large teapot. However, there +was plenty of fresh milk provided after a short interval, though the +latter article was not obtained without considerable difficulty, and +remonstrances proceeding from an adjoining shed, probably due to +somnolence on the part of the animal from which the supply was drawn. +Presently a great commotion, as of numerous bodies rolling down a steep +ladder, was heard, and there appeared at the door a large collection of +small shock-headed children, who gaped at us in silent wonder. Anxious to +ascertain the physical effects that might be induced by the consumption of +the sausage, the moralist, who amongst his many talents had apparently a +turn for experimental physiology, cut off a block and placed it in the +open mouth of the eldest of the children. This unexpected favour led to +the boy’s swallowing the morsel whole, and he shortly afterwards retired +with a somewhat pained expression of countenance; the other members of the +family followed shortly after in tears, in consequence of the Italianised +young lady, who possessed a strong fund of human sympathy and a love for +the picturesque, having made an attempt to conciliate their good-will by +patting their respective heads, and asking them their names in a +conjectural _patois_. We were now ready to start again, and demanded of +our hostess what there was to pay. This request led her to go to the foot +of the ladder, which represented a staircase, and call out for the +proprietor. A little black-headed man in response instantly precipitated +himself down the steps, shot into the apartment, and, without any +preliminary calculation, named the exact price. On receiving his money he +scuttled away again like a frightened rabbit, brought the change, jerked +it down on the table, and darted off again to his slumbers. The whole +transaction occupied some five-and-twenty seconds. + +Part of the programme consisted in descending back to Argentière by +lantern-light, but the resources of the establishment could only produce +one battered machine, and it was no easy task with this illumination to +keep the members of the party from straying away from the narrow path. +Indeed, several members did part from the rest, curiously enough in pairs; +but before long we left the narrow defile, and as we passed from under the +shelter of the slope on our right, and could see across the Chamouni +valley, we came suddenly in view of the great mass of the Aiguille Verte, +so suddenly, indeed, that it made us start back for the moment; for, +illumined by a grey ghostly light, the mountain seemed at first to hang +right over us. There is, perhaps, no finer view of the Aiguille Verte to +be obtained than from this point; certainly no finer effects of light and +shade than were granted by the conditions under which we saw it, could +have been devised to show the peak off to the best advantage. So long did +we delay to dwell on the fairy-like scene, that the vacuous youth, +accompanied by the young lady of varied accomplishments, caught us up and +joined us quite suddenly, to their exceeding confusion. The youth, without +being invited to do so, explained, blushing violently the while, that they +had lost the path in the darkness, and had only been able to regain the +track by lighting a series of lucifer matches—an entire fiction on his +part, but condoned, as evincing more readiness of wit than we had +previously given him credit for. We heard also that their way had been +barred by a swamp and a mountain stream, which, like gossip, can have had +no particular origin. The young lady, mindful of the absence of her +preceptress and consequently heedless of grammar, described the situation +neatly as being “awfully bogs.” + +(M135) + +If the expedition had shown us no more than this moonlight effect, the +reward would have been ample. In truth, from first to last the expedition +was one which it would be hard to match for variety of interest in all the +sub-Alpine district. At Argentière we rejoined the carriages, and found +the horses just a little more inclined for exertion than they had been in +the morning; their joy at going home seemed to be tempered by the fact +that they recognised that they would inevitably be called upon to start +from the same point at no very distant period; and that to return home was +but to go back to the starting-point for further laborious excursions. But +their equine tempers seemed thoroughly soured. The Italianised young lady +was taken in charge by her elder sister, who had completed her education, +and knew consequently the hollowness of the world and the folly of younger +sisters’ flirtations, and securely lodged in the landau. The youth, after +an ineffectual attempt to find a place in the same carriage, climbed to +the box seat of the other vehicle, and relieved his feelings by cracking +the driver’s whip with great dexterity; in fact, we discovered that this +was one of his principal accomplishments. Not the least satisfactory part +of the climb, in the estimation of some members of the party, was the fact +that the moralist had lost his note-book during his imprisonment in the +crevasse. + + + + + + CHAPTER IX. + + + A FRAGMENT + + + An unauthentic MS.—Solitude on the mountain: its advantages to the + historian of the Alps—A rope walk—The crossing of the Schrund—A + novel form of avalanche and an airy situation—A towering + obstacle—The issue of the expedition in the balance—A very narrow + escape—The final rush—Victory!—The perils of the descent—I plunge + _in medias res_—A flying descent. + + +The following account is somewhat of a puzzle. It appears to contain +certain facts of so startling a nature, that the ascent to which they +refer must unquestionably have been of a very exciting character. The +details are not so wholly unlike descriptions which have passed the +searching discrimination of editors, in publications relating more or less +to Alpine matters, as to warrant the assumption that they are +fabrications. They do not appear, as far as the writer can ascertain, to +have been seen in print hitherto; but as all Alpine writings relate but +rigid matters of fact and actual occurrences, there seems no objection to +publishing the manuscript, notwithstanding that its authorship is only +conjectural. It is unfortunate that its fragmentary nature leaves one +somewhat in doubt as to the actual peak to which the description refers. +It has been suggested by a plausible commentator, judging from internal +evidence and the style of writing, that the manuscript of which the +fragment consists formed part of an account originally intended for some +work not published in this country, or even, possibly, was primarily +designed to fill the columns of one of our own daily newspapers during the +silly season. + +(M136) + +“... The day was cloudless, serene, and bright. Only in the immediate +foreground did the heavy banks, betokening a _tourmente_, sweep around +with relentless fury. Far above, the towering crags of the majestic peak +pierced the sky. How to get there! And alone! The situation was sublime; +yet more, it was fascinating; once again, it was enthralling. Far below +lay the prostrate bodies of my companions, worn out, wearied, gorged with +_petit vin_ and sardines. A thought flashed across my mind. Why should I +not scale alone these heights which had hitherto defied the most +consummate _intrépides_? In a moment the resolution was taken. For me, for +me alone, should the laurel wreaths be twined. For me should the booming +cannon, charged with fifty centimes’ worth of uncertain powder, betoken +victory. For me alone should the assortment of cheap flags which had done +duty on many previous occasions of rejoicing, be dragged forth. What was +the expense to a hero when the glow of so magnificent an achievement +should swell his heart and loosen his purse-strings? The account might +reach a sum of two and a half, nay, even five francs; but what of that? I +girded myself with the trusty rope, and, attaching one end lightly to a +projecting crag twenty feet above, hauled myself in a moment on to the +eminence. Involuntarily I shot a glance downwards. The scene was +fearful—one to make the most resolute quail. But there was no time for +thought, still less for accurate description. A fearfully steep couloir, +flanked by two yawning bergschrunds, stretched away horizontally right and +left. How to cross them! It was the work of a moment. Unfastening the knot +in the rope above me, I threw myself, heart and soul, into the work. Where +heart and soul are, there must, in the ante-mortem state, be the body +also. This is logic. Thus I entered the chasm. Battling desperately with +the huge icicles that threatened me at every step, I forced my way through +the snow bridge and breathed again. The first schrund was accomplished. +Next the rope was fastened to my trusty axe, and with an herculean effort +I threw it far above me; fortunately it caught in a notch, and in a few +seconds I had climbed, with the agility of a monkey, up the tightened +cord. Goodness gracious! (_sapristi!_) what do I hear? A sudden roar below +betokened an immediate danger. Horror! sweeping and roaring up the slope +from the glacier beneath, I beheld a huge avalanche. I will conceal +nothing. I own that the appalling situation and its terribly dramatic +nature forced me to ejaculate a cry. I do not claim originality for it. I +said, ‘Oh! my mother!’ (_Oh! ma mère!_) This relieved me. Now was the time +indeed for coolness. Fortunate, most fortunate, that I was alone. +Thrusting the spike of the axe into the solid rock face like the spear of +Ithuriel, in the twinkling of an eye I had fastened one end of the rope to +the projecting head of the axe, and the other to my waist, and launched +myself over the ridge into space. Fortunate, most fortunate again, as in +the hurry of the moment I had attached the rope below my own centre of +gravity, that I was light-headed. Had this not been the case, assuredly I +should have dangled feet uppermost over the abyss. Not a moment too soon. +The avalanche dashed up the slope, grinding the axe to powder, but by good +luck entangling the rope between the massive blocks and carrying it up, +with myself attached, nearly 100 metres—I should say 300 feet—above where +I had previously stood. I had accomplished in a moment what might have +cost hours of toil. Again it was sublime. The thought crossed my mind that +the sublime often approaches the ridiculous. But the rocks, previously +broken up, had been ground by the sweeping avalanche into a surface smooth +as polished steel. How to descend these again! Banish the thought! The +mountain was not yet climbed. Upwards, past yawning séracs, towering +bergschrunds, slippery crevasses, gaping arêtes, I made my way. For a few +hundred feet I bounded upwards with great rapidity. Despite the rugged +nature of the rocks everything went smoothly. Of a sudden a terrible +obstacle was presented to my gaze. I felt that all my hopes seemingly were +dashed. A stupendous cleft, riving the mountain’s side to an unfathomable +depth, barred further progress. From top to bottom both sides of the chasm +overhung; and far below, where they joined, the angle of meeting was so +sharp that I felt that I must infallibly be wedged in without hope of +extrication if I fell. For a few moments I hesitated, but only for a few. +Close by was a tower of rock, smooth and vertical, some twelve feet +high—the height of two men, in fact. No handhold save on the top. This was +but a simple matter. Had any one else been with me, I should have stood on +his shoulders; as it was I stood on my own head. Thus I climbed to the +summit of the pointed obelisk of rock. Exactly opposite, on the farther +side of the cleft, was a similar rock cone, but the distance was too great +to spring across. I was in a dilemma—on one horn of it, in fact; how to +get to the other! I adopted an ingenious plan. Taking my trusty axe, I +placed the pointed end in a little notch in the rock, and then, with +herculean strength, bent the staff and wedged the head also into a notch. +The trusty axe was now bent like a bow. Again I hesitated before trusting +myself to the bow; in fact, it was long before I drew it. But a former +experience stood me in good stead. Once before, driven by a less powerful +impetus—merely that of a human leg—I had flown through a greater distance. +I made up my mind, and, summoning all my fortitude, placed my back against +the arc and, lightly touching one end, released the spring. Instantly I +felt myself propelled straight into mid-air, and before I had time to +realise the success of my scheme, was flung against the pinnacle on the +opposite side and embraced it. What were my feelings on finding that this +huge pinnacle had no more stability than a ninepin, and as my weight came +on to it slowly heeled over! Nor was this all. Slowly, like the pendulum +of a metronome, it rolled back again, and I found to my horror that I was +clinging to the apex of the rock, and dangling right over the chasm! I +cannot recall that in all my adventures I had ever been in a precisely +similar situation. However, a hasty calculation satisfied me that the +rocking crag must again right itself. As I expected, it did so, and as the +pinnacle of rock swung back once more to the perpendicular I sprang from +it with all my force. The impetus landed me safe, but the crag toppled +over into the abyss. Here I noted an interesting scientific fact. Taking +out my watch, I was able to estimate, by the depth of the cleft, the +height I had already climbed. _The boulder took a minute and a half in +falling before it reached anywhere._ I own that the escape was a narrow +one, and even my unblushing cheek paled a little at the thought of it. But +I could not be far now, I hoped, from the summit; and, indeed, the +condition of a dead bird which it so happened lay on the rocks—in a +passive sense—convinced me that the summit of the lofty peak was close at +hand. But few obstacles now remained. Another step or two revealed a +glassy unbroken rock cone leading to the summit. It seemed impossible at +first to surmount it, but my resources were not yet at an end. Dragging +off my boots, I tore out with my teeth the long nails and drove them in +one after another. By this means I ascended the first half of the final +peak; but then the supply of nails was exhausted, and I felt that time +would not permit me to draw out the lower nails and place them in +succession above the others. Luckily I still carried with me a flask of +the execrable _petit vin_ supplied by Mons. —— of the inn below. I applied +a little to the rock. The effect was magical. In a moment the hard face +was softened to the consistence of cheese, and with my trusty axe I had no +difficulty in scraping out small steps. The worst was now over. Just as +the shades of night were gathering softly around, I stepped with the proud +consciousness of victory on to the very highest point. This indeed was +sublime. The toil of years was accomplished; it seemed almost a dream. +Nerved to frenzy, with a mighty sweep of the axe I struck off a huge block +from the summit to carry away as a token of conquest, and planting the +weapon in the hole, tore off garment after garment to make a suitable +flag; only did I desist on reflecting that it would become barely possible +for me to descend if I acted thus. Intoxicated with victory, I shouted and +sang for a while, and then turned to the descent. The night was fast +closing in, but this mattered not, for I made light of all the obstacles, +and they were so numerous that I succeeded perfectly by this means in +seeing my way. Faster and faster I sped along, descending with ease over +the blocks and fragments of the morning’s avalanche. Now and again the +descent was assisted by fastening the rope securely to projecting crags, +and then allowing myself to slide down to its full length. Then I went up +again, untied the rope, fastened it anew below, and repeated the manœuvre. +Thus at midnight I reached the edge of the cliff, at the foot of which my +companions had been left in the morning. I feared they might be anxious +for my safety, the more especially that I had not yet paid them for their +services. Peering over the edge of the vertical precipice into the murky +darkness, I called out. There was no response. Then I said ‘Pst,’ and +tapped the glassy slope with my pocket knife. Even this plan failed to +attract their attention. I shouted with still more force. Finally, +standing up on the edge of the cliff, I sent forth a shout so terribly +loud that it must have waked even a sleeping adder. A fatal error! for the +reverberation of my voice was echoed back with such fearful force from a +neighbouring crag that the shock struck me backwards, and in a moment I +was flying through mid-air—to annihilation.” + + * * * * * * + +“There is a blank in this narrative which I can never fill up. This only +do I know; that when I came again to my senses, I was warmly ensconced in +a blanket, whilst my companions stood around in a circle shivering, as +they gazed at me with amazement. Their account, which I can scarcely +credit, was that as they were engaged in stretching out and shaking a +blanket preparatory to spreading their bed for the night, an apparently +heaven-sent form had descended from above into the very middle of it; the +shock tore the blanket from their grasp, and in a twinkling I lay wrapt up +safe and comfortable at their feet.” + +(M137) + +Such is the fragment. It has been thought better to present it as far as +possible in its original form, and without any editing. That the account +is a little highly coloured perhaps in parts may be allowed, but some +licence may legitimately be accorded to an author who is no empty dreamer, +but has evidently experienced some rather exciting episodes. + + + + + + CHAPTER X. + + + THE FUTURE OF MOUNTAINEERING + + + Mountaineers and their critics—The early days of the Alpine + Club—The founders of mountaineering—The growth of the + amusement—Novelty and exploration—The formation of + centres—Narrowing of the field of mountaineering—The upward limit + of mountaineering—De Saussure’s experience—Modern development of + climbing—Mr. Whymper’s experience—Mr. Graham’s experience—The + ascent of great heights—Mr. Grove’s views—Messrs. Coxwell and + Glaisher’s balloon experiences—Reasons for dissenting from Mr. + Glaisher’s views—The possibility of ascending Mount + Everest—Physiological aspect of the question—Acclimatisation to + great heights—The direction in which mountaineering should be + developed—The results that may be obtained—Chamouni a century + hence—A Rip van Winkle in the Pennine Alps—The dangers of + mountaineering—Conclusion. + + +(M138) + +From time to time, when some accident has happened in the Alps, the press +and the public have been pleased to take such unfortunate occurrence as a +text, and to preach serious sermons to mountaineers. We have been called +hard names in our time; we have been accused of fostering an amusement of +no earthly-practical good, and one which has led to “miserable” waste of +valuable life. Gentle expressions of animadversion, such as “criminal +folly,” “reckless venture, which has no better purpose than the +gratification of a caprice or the indulgence of a small ambition,” “a +subject of humiliating interest,” and the like, have at times been freely +used. But it is well known to authors and to dramatists that criticisms of +a nature known as “smashing” are not, on the whole, always to be deplored, +and are occasionally the best to enhance the success of the work. The +novel or play, however unreservedly condemned by the reviewer, has got +some chance of living if it be hinted that some of the situations in it +are a little _risquées_; and to a great many the idea seems constantly +present that mountaineering owes its principal attraction to the element +of risk inseparable from its pursuit. As an absolute matter of fact such +is not the case. Apart from this, however, mountaineers may be thankful +that the critics in question have, when they noticed our doings at all, +condemned us very heartily indeed, and thundered forth their own +strictures on our folly in sonorous terms; in fact, attacks of this nature +have by no means impaired the vitality of such associations as Alpine +clubs, but rather, like attacks of distemper in dogs, have increased their +value. + +It would be easy enough, from the mountaineer’s point of view, and in a +work which, at the best, can interest only those who have some sympathy +with climbing as a pure pastime, to pass over these hard words, and to +reckon them as merely the vapourings of envious mortals not initiated into +the mysteries of the mountaineering craft; but such criticisms may lead or +perhaps reflect public opinion, and are not, therefore, to be treated +lightly. It might be held that for any notice to be taken at all is +complimentary, and we might seek shelter in the epigrammatic saying that +he who has no enemies has no character; that though hope may spring +eternal in the human breast, jealousy is a trait still more constantly +found. But this line of argument is not one to be adopted. The _tu quoque_ +style of defence is not one well calculated to gain a verdict. No doubt +the question has been treated often enough before, and in discussing it +the writer may seem but to be doing what nowadays the climber is forced to +do in the Alps—namely, wander again, perhaps ramble, over ground that has +been well trodden many times before. But the conditions have changed +greatly since mountaineering first became a popular pastime, and since the +first editions of “Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers” were rapidly sold out. It +is, the writer fears, only too true in these latter days that mountaineers +may be classified as Past and Present. Whether a third class may be added +of “the Future” is a question—to be answered, I hope, in the affirmative. + +(M139) + +The Alpine Club was founded in 1857 by a few ardent devotees to what was +then an entirely new form of pastime. The original members of that club +could never have even dreamed of the wide popularity mountaineering was +destined to acquire, or the influence that the establishment of the Alpine +Club was to have on it; and, like the fish in an aquarium, they can hardly +have known what they were in for. In the present day there are Alpine +clubs in almost every country in Europe, and in some countries there are +several, numbering their members in some cases by thousands. Nor is it +only on the continent of Europe that there are mountaineering clubs. Not +that the writer ventures to assert that every member of this multitude is +devoted to the high Alps, or that it is in the least degree essential to +climb high and difficult mountains in order to learn the fascination of +their natural beauties. It may be pointed out, however, that the +“miserable waste of valuable life” is in the greatest part not on the +great peaks and passes, but on little hills. Every year we read of +accidents on mountains such as the Faulhorn, the Monte Salvatore in the +Alps, or Snowdon, Helvellyn and the like in our own country. Possibly +these disasters might never have taken place had the experience of +mountaineering craft gained in high regions been properly appreciated and +utilised. The good surgeon is he who, utilising all his own and all his +predecessors’ experience, recognises, and makes provision against, all the +risks that may conceivably be involved in the most trifling operation he +may be called upon to perform; and holiday ramblers in our own land and in +sub-Alpine regions might, not without advantage, profit by the example. + +(M140) + +Five-and-twenty years ago in Switzerland there were numberless heights +untrodden, passes uncrossed, and regions unexplored. Then, moreover, there +were comparatively but few to cross the passes or climb the mountains; but +those few did mighty deeds. Peak after peak fell before them, while slowly +but surely they opened up new regions and brought unexpected beauties to +light. In those days climbing as an art was but in its infancy, restricted +to a few amateurs specially qualified to pursue it, and to a very limited +number of guides—merely those, in fact (not such a numerous class as +people seem generally to imagine), who had made chamois-hunting one of the +principal objects of their lives. Gradually the art became more developed, +and with the increase of power thus acquired came increase of confidence. +From the fact that the training in the mountaineering art was gradual, it +was necessarily thorough—a fact that a good many climbers would do well to +bear in mind in these latter days. Then, of course, the charm of novelty, +so dear to the mountaineer, was seldom absent; he could strike out right +or left and find virgin soil; but in quest of novelty search had to be +made before long in remote regions. It followed that exploration was not +limited, and the early pioneers of mountaineering could, and did learn +more of the geography and varied beauties of the Alps in a single season +than their followers do, in the present day, in five or six. + +After a while the fashion of mountaineering altered sensibly, and a strong +conservatism sprang up. Certain districts became more and more frequented; +certain peaks acquired special popularity, either because they were +conveniently placed and ready of access; or because there was a certain +touch of romance about them, as in the case of the Matterhorn; or because +they had acquired the reputation of being difficult, and it was thought +that a successful ascent would stamp the climber at once as a skilful +person and a very daring creature. Thus places like Zermatt, Grindelwald, +Chamouni, and the Æggischhorn became the great centres of mountaineering, +and have remained so ever since. Independent exploration gradually gave +way to the charm of meeting others bent on the same pursuit of climbing; +but this feeling was not without its drawbacks, and tended to check what +has been called cosmopolitanism in mountaineering. How few, even among +those who visit the Alps regularly, know anything whatever of such large, +important, and interesting districts as the Silvretta group, the Rheinwald +group, or the Lepontine Alps! while districts like Zermatt are thronged +and crowded, and the mountains absolutely done to death. Not that it is +hard to understand how this narrowing of the field of mountaineering has +been brought about. There comes a time of life to most men when they find +more pleasure in meeting old friends than in making new acquaintances; and +the same feeling would appear to extend to the mountains. + +It must be confessed here that the writer is disposed to look upon +mountaineering in the Alps, in the sense in which it has hitherto been +known, as a pastime that will before long become extinct. In some soils +trees grow with extraordinary rapidity and vigour, but do not strike their +roots very deep, and so are prone to early decay. Still, it does not +follow that, even should these pessimist forebodings prove true, and +climbing be relegated to the limbo of archaic pursuits, the Alps will not +attract their thousands as they have done for many years. The dearth of +novelty is sometimes held to be the principal cause that will eventually +lead to the decay of mountaineering. There is a reasonable probability, +however, to judge from the Registrar-General’s reports, that the world +will still be peopled some time hence, and possibly a generation will then +arise of mountaineering revivalists who, never having tasted the flavour +of novelty in Alpine climbing, will not perceive that its absence is any +loss. Yet in the Alps alone many seem to forget that, while they are +exhausting in every detail a few spots, there are numerous and varied +expeditions of similar nature still to be accomplished, the scenes of +which lie within a few hours of London. It is of course only to +mountaineering as a semi-fashionable craze that these remarks apply. The +knowledge of the art, acquired primarily in the Alps, which has led to the +development of mountaineering as a science will not be wasted, and the +training acquired in holiday expeditions, when amusement or the regaining +of health was the principal object, can be turned to valuable practical +account elsewhere. So shall there be a future for mountaineering. No doubt +but few may be able to find the opportunity, unless indeed they make it +somewhat of a profession, of exploring the great mountainous districts +still almost untouched—such, for instance, as the Himalayas. But it is in +some such direction as this that the force of the stream, somewhat tending +to dry up in its original channel, will, it may be hoped, spread in the +future. + +(M141) + +It has already been shown, by the results of many modern expeditions, that +the old views that obtained with respect to the upward limit of +mountaineering must, to say the least, be considerably modified. From +early times the question of the effects of rarefied air in high regions on +mountaineers has attracted attention. As a matter of fact the subject is +still barely in its infancy. A few remarks on this point may not perhaps +be thought too technical, for they bear, I hope, on the mountaineering of +the future. + +It is matter of notoriety that in these days travellers seem less subject +to discomfort in the high Alps than in former times. De Saussure, for +instance, in the account of his famous ascent of Mont Blanc in 1787, +speaks a good deal of the difficulty of respiration. At his bivouac on the +Plateau, at an elevation of 13,300 feet, the effects of the rarefied air +were much commented on; and these remarks are the more valuable, inasmuch +as De Saussure was a man of science and a most acute observer; while his +account, a thing too rare in these days, is characterised by extreme +modesty of description. The frequency of the respirations, he observed, +which ensued on any exertion caused great fatigue. Nowadays, however, +pedestrians, often untrained, may be seen daily ascending at a very much +faster pace than De Saussure seems to have gone, and yet the effects are +scarcely felt. No one now expects much to suffer from this cause, and no +one does. In recent times we hear accounts of ascents of mountains like +Elbruz, 18,526 feet, by Mr. Grove and others; of Cotopaxi, 19,735 feet, +and Chimborazo, 20,517(7) feet, by Mr. Whymper; and the most recent, and +by far the most remarkable, of Kabru in the Himalayas, about 24,000 feet, +by Mr. Graham. In all these expeditions the travellers spent nights in +bivouacs far above the level of the Grand Plateau where De Saussure +encamped. We cannot suppose that in the Caucasus, the Andes, or the +Himalayas the air differs much from that of the Alps with regard to its +rarefaction effects on travellers. In fact, the Alpine traveller would in +this respect probably be much better off, for the general conditions +surrounding him would be more like those to which he was accustomed. He +would not have, for instance, to contend with the effects of changed or +meagre diet or unaccustomed climate. + +(M142) + +Mr. F. C. Grove, a very high authority on such a point, in his description +of the ascent of Elbruz, in the course of some remarks on the rarity of +the air, states his belief that at some height or another, less than that +of the loftiest mountain, there must be a limit at which no amount of +training and good condition will enable a man to live; and he says, “It +may be taken for granted that no human being could walk to the top of +Mount Everest.”(8) This was written in 1875; but a great deal has happened +since then, though the same opinion is still very generally entertained. +But with this opinion I cannot coincide at all, for reasons that appear to +me logically conclusive. In the first place, a party of three, composed of +Mr. Graham, Herr Emil Boss, and the Swiss guide Kauffman, have ascended +more than 5,000 feet higher than the top of Elbruz, and none of the party +experienced any serious effect, or, indeed, apparently any effect at all +other than those naturally incidental to severe exertion. It must be +admitted that one result of their expedition was to prove, tolerably +conclusively, that Mount Everest is not the highest mountain in the world. +Still, until it is officially deposed, it may be taken, for argument’s +sake, as the ultimate point. Now, it would seem to be beyond doubt that a +man, being transported to a height much greater than Mount Everest, can +still live. In Messrs. Coxwell and Glaisher’s famous balloon ascent from +Wolverhampton on September 5, 1862, described in “Travels in the Air,” it +was computed that the travellers reached a height of nearly 37,000 +feet,(9) and this in less than an hour from the time of leaving the earth. +Deduct 5,000 feet from this computation, to allow for possible error, and +we still have a height left of 32,000 feet, an elevation, that is, very +considerably greater than the summit of Mount Everest—possibly a greater +elevation than the summit of any mountain. Life then, it is proved, can be +sustained at such a height, and the point that remains for consideration +is whether the necessary exertion of walking or climbing to the same +height would render the actual ascent impossible. + +(M143) + +Since the days of De Saussure some 8,000 feet have been added to the +height to which the possibility of ascending has been proved. It seems to +me unreasonable to assume that another 5,000 feet may not yet be added, +and arbitrary to conclude that at some point higher than Kabru but lower +than Mount Everest the limit of human endurance must necessarily be +reached. Mr. Glaisher himself does not appear to think that, from his +experience, any such ascent as that we have been considering would be +possible for an Alpine traveller (_op. cit._ p. 21 and elsewhere). But, +with every deference to so great an authority, a few considerations may be +submitted which tend most seriously to invalidate his conclusions and +opinions, and which may serve to show also that the effects of rarefied +air probably differ more widely in the two cases of the aëronaut and the +mountaineer than is generally supposed. Writing in 1871, Mr. Glaisher +says,(10) “At a height of three miles I never experienced any annoyance or +discomfort; yet there is no ascent I think of Mont Blanc in which great +inconvenience and severe _pain_ have not been felt at a height of 13,000 +feet; but then, as before remarked, this is an elevation attained only +after two days of excessive toil.” Mr. Glaisher is here referring chiefly +to Dr. Hamel’s ascent of Mont Blanc, and would seem apparently to be +unaware that, long before he wrote, the ascent of Mont Blanc, from +Chamouni and back to the same place, had been accomplished within +twenty-four hours. In 1873, if my memory serves me right, Mr. Passingham +started from Chamouni, ascended the mountain, and returned to his hotel in +a little less than twenty hours.(11) Compare such an ascent as this—not by +any means an isolated instance—with De Saussure’s experience, and when we +consider how remarkable has been the development of mountaineering in this +direction, we may surely hold that to fix at present any absolute limit is +unduly arbitrary. Further, the ascents of Chimborazo and the other +mountains named above have all been accomplished since Mr. Glaisher wrote. +Mr. Glaisher states that the aëronaut may acclimatise himself to great +heights by repeated ascents; but how much more may the mountaineer then +hope to do so! The aëronaut necessarily makes ascents rapidly(12) and at +rare intervals. The mountaineer can acclimatise himself to high regions by +a constant and gradual process, a method obviously better calculated to +extend the limits of his endurance. + +Of course I am only discussing the actual possibility, not entering into +the question for a moment of whether it is worth while to do it. It may be +that to attempt an ascent of Mount Everest would prove almost as rash an +undertaking as an endeavour to swim through the Niagara rapids—that is, if +the mountaineering difficulties are so great as to make the two instances +parallel. Two points have to be considered: one, that, granted the +desirability of making such an ascent, we do not yet fully know the best +manner of undertaking it; and another, that we are still very ignorant as +to the physiological effects of rarefied air on the human frame.(13) + +(M144) + +With regard to the first point, we know indeed this much—that, granted +good condition, a man can “acclimatise” himself to great heights, and when +so acclimatised he can undergo much more exertion in very high regions +with much less effect. The experience of Mr. Whymper in the Andes, and of +Mr. Graham and others in the Himalayas, has shown this conclusively +enough. Let a man sleep at a height, say, of 18,000 feet, and then ascend +from that point another 3,000 or 4,000 feet; he may possibly feel the +effects to be so great that an attempt to sleep again at the latter height +would render him incapable of exertion the next day, as far as an ascent +is concerned. Let him descend till he can bivouac, say at 20,000 feet, and +then again try, starting afresh. After a while he would be able to +accomplish still more than at his first attempt; and so on, until he +reached the summit. But even supposing that no amount of acclimatisation +enables him to accomplish his end, he has other weapons in his armoury. + +(M145) + +The second point mentioned above is that the physiological effects of +rarefied air on the human economy are but little known; were these +understood the resources of science might be called in to obviate them. It +may be said that no amount of science will obviate the very simple fact +that exertion causes fatigue, but the answer is that we have no real idea +of all the causes which lead to this fatigue. This is not the place to +speculate on a somewhat abstruse and unquestionably complicated +physiological problem, but the direction in which the question may be +approached from the scientific side is worthy of being pointed out. This +much may be said, however, that when we talk of strong heart and strong +lungs in connection with the question of the possibility of ascending on +foot to the greatest altitudes, we are only, from the physiological point +of view, taking into account one or two factors, and perhaps not the most +important ones. The cavillers may be reminded that physiology is not and +never will become a finite science. To my mind at least, as far as human +endurance is concerned, it would be no more surprising to me to hear that +a man had succeeded in walking up Mount Everest than to know that a man +can succeed in standing an arctic climate while on a sledging expedition. +Objections like the difficulty of arranging for a supply of food, of +expense, of risk, and so forth, are not taken into account—they are really +beside the question: they have not proved insuperable obstacles in the +case of arctic exploration; they will not prove insurmountable to the +ambitious mountaineer we are contemplating. I do not for a moment say that +it would be wise to ascend Mount Everest, but I believe most firmly that +it is humanly possible to do so; and, further, I feel sure that, even in +our own time, perhaps, the truth of these views will receive material +corroboration. Mount Everest itself may offer insuperable mountaineering +obstacles, but in the unknown, unseen district to the north there may be +peaks of equal height presenting no more technical difficulties than Mont +Blanc or Elbruz. + +(M146) + +From the purely athletic point of view, then, the mountaineering +experience which has been gained almost exclusively in the Alps may, by a +still further development in the future, enable the climber so to develop +the art that he may reach the highest elevation on this world’s crust; and +he may do this without running undue risk. _Cui bono?_ it may be asked; +and it is nearly as hard to answer the question as it is to explain to the +supine and unaspiring person the good that may be expected to accrue to +humanity by reaching the North Pole; yet the latter project, albeit to +some it seems like a struggle of man against physical forces which make or +mar worlds, is one that is held to be right and proper to be followed. At +the least an observer, even of limited powers, may reasonably be expected, +supposing he accomplished such a feat as the ascent of Mount Everest, to +bring back results of equal scientific value with the arctic traveller, +while the purely geographical information he should gain would have +fiftyfold greater practical value. The art and science of mountaineering +has been learned and developed in the Alps, and the acquirement of this +learning has been a pleasure to many. If the holiday nature of +mountaineering should in the future be somewhat dropped, and if a few of +those who follow should take up the more serious side, and make what has +been a pastime into a profession (and why should not some do so? That +which is worth doing at all is worth developing to the utmost possible +limit), good will come, unless it be argued that there is no gain in +extending geographical knowledge; and no advantage in rectifying surveys +and rendering them as accurate as possible. As has been remarked by Mr. +Douglas Freshfield, the advantage of including in survey parties, such as +are still engaged on our Indian frontier, the services of some who have +made mountaineering a branch to be learnt in their profession, would be +very distinct. Work done in the Alps would, in this direction, perhaps, +bear the best fruit and reap the highest practical value which it might be +hoped to attain. The value would be real. The search after truth, whether +it be in the fields of natural science, of geography, or its to-be-adopted +sister orography, can never fail to be right and good and beneficial. +Enthusiasm all this! you say. Granted freely. Without some enthusiasm and +energy the world would cease to turn, and the retarding section of mankind +would be triumphant, save that they would be too languid to realise the +victory of their principles. + +But still, if properly qualified men are to be forthcoming to meet such a +want, which undoubtedly seems to exist, the old training-ground must not +be deserted; the playground of Europe must be regarded in relation to +serious work in the same light that the playing-fields of Eton were +regarded by one who was somewhat of an authority. The Great Duke’s remark +is too well known to need quotation. English folk may find it hard to hold +their own against their near relations in athletic pursuits, such as +cricket and sculling, but in mountaineering they undoubtedly lead, and +will continue to do so. In one phase indeed of the pursuit their supremacy +is menaced. In the matter of recognising the practical value to be +obtained from mountaineering in surveying and the like, they are already +behind other countries. The roll of honorary members of the Alpine Club +comprises a list of men, most of whom have utilised their mountaineering +experience to good purpose in advancing scientific exploration. In this +department it is to be hoped that we shall not suffer ourselves to be +outstripped, nor allow a store of valuable and laboriously acquired +experience to remain wasted. The threatening cloud may pass off; the +future of Alpine mountaineering may not prove to be so gloomy as it +sometimes seems to the writer in danger of gradually becoming. The +depression is, possibly, only temporary, and a natural consequence of +reaction; and the zigzagging line on the chart, though it may never +perhaps rise again to the point it once marked, yet may keep well at the +normal—better, perhaps, at such a level than at fever heat. The old cry +that we know so well on the mountains, that meets always with a ready +thrill of response, may acquire a wider significance, and men will be +found to answer to the familiar call of “Vorwärts, immer vorwärts!” + +After all, a century hence the mountaineering centres of to-day will +perhaps still attract as they do now. It may be possible to get to +Chamouni without submitting to the elaborately devised discomfort of the +present Channel passage, and without the terrors of asphyxiation in the +carriages of the Chemin de Fer du Nord. Surely the charm of the mountains +must always draw men to the Alps, even though the glaciers may have shrunk +up and sunk down, though places like Arolla and the Grimsel may have +become thriving towns, or radical changes such as a drainage system at +Chamouni have been instituted. If the glaciers do shrink, there will be +all the more scope for the rock climber and the more opportunity of +perfecting an art which has already been so much developed. + +(M147) + +A Rip van Winkle of our day, waking up in that epoch of the future, would +for certain find much that was unaltered. The same types of humanity would +be around him. Conceive this somnolent hero of fiction, clad in a felt +wideawake that had once been white, in knickerbockers and Norfolk jacket, +of which the seams had at one time held together, supporting his bent +frame and creaking joints on a staff with rusted spike and pick. He +descends laboriously from a vehicle that had jolted impartially +generations before him (for the carriages of the valley are as little +liable to wear out, in the eyes of their proprietors, as the “wonderful +one-hoss shay”). He finds himself on a summer evening by the Hôtel de +Ville at Chamouni, and facing the newly erected Opera-house. He looks with +wondering eyes around. A youth (great-great-great-great-grandson of +Jacques Balmat) approaches and waits respectfully by his side, ready to +furnish information. + +“Why these flags and these rejoicings?” the old man asks. + +“To celebrate the tercentenary of the first ascent of Mont Blanc,” the boy +answers. + +The veteran gazes around, shading his eyes with his shrivelled hand. The +travellers come in. First a triumphal procession of successful and +intrepid mountaineers. Banners wave, cannon go off—or more probably miss +fire—bouquets are displayed, champagne and compliments are poured out; +both the latter expressions of congratulation equally gassy, and both +about equally genuine. + +“Who are these?” the old man inquires. + +“Do you not see the number on their banner?” answers the youth; “they are +the heroes of the forty-fifth section of the tenth branch of the northern +division of the Savoy Alpine Club.” + +“Ah!” the old man murmurs to himself, with a sigh of recollection, “I can +remember that they were numerous even in my day.” + +Then follows a sad-looking, dejected creature, stealing back to his hotel +by byways, but with face bronzed from exposure on rocks, not scorched by +sun-reflecting snow; his boots scored with multitudinous little cuts and +scratches telling of difficult climbing; his hands as brown as his face; +his finger-nails, it must be admitted, seriously impaired in their +symmetry. + +“And who is this? Has he been guilty of some crime?” the old man asks. + +“Not so,” the answer comes; “he has just completed the thousandth ascent +of the Aiguille...; he comes of a curious race which, history relates, at +one time much frequented these districts; but that was a great while +ago—long before the monarchy was re-established. You do well to look at +him; that is the last of the climbing Englishmen. They always seem +depressed when they have succeeded in achieving their ambition of the +moment; it is a characteristic of their now almost extinct race.” + +(M148) + +“And what about the perils of the expedition?” the old man asks, +brightening up a little as if some old ideas had suddenly flashed across +his mind. “I would fain know whether the journey is different now from +what it was formerly; yet the heroes would mock me, perchance, if I were +to interrogate them.” + +“Not at all,” the youth replies. “There are but few of the first party who +would not vouchsafe to give you a full account, and might even in their +courtesy embellish the narrative with flowers of rhetoric. But it is +unnecessary. They will print a detailed and full description of their +exploits. It has all been said before, but so has everything else, I +think.” + +“That is true,” the old man murmurs to himself; “it was even so in my +time, and two hundred years before I lived a French writer commenced his +book with the remark, ‘_Tout est dit._’ But what of the other, the +dejected survivor? does he not too write?” + +“Yes, indeed, but not in the same strain; he will but pour out a little +gentle sarcasm and native spleen, in mild criticism of the fulsome periods +he peruses in other tongues.” + +“Ah me!” thinks the old man, “in one respect then I need not prove so much +behind the time. If the memory of the Alpine literature of my day were +still fresh, I could hold mine own with those I see around.” + +May I be permitted, in conclusion, to come back to our own day, and to say +a very few words on the subject of mountaineering accidents? Most heartily +would I concur with any one who raised the objection that such remarks are +out of place in a chapter on the mountaineering of the future. But perhaps +we have been looking too far ahead, and there may be a period to follow +between this our time and the future to be hoped for. + +(M149) + +It has sometimes been stated and written that no one desires to remove +from mountaineering all danger. The dangers of mountaineering have been +divided by a well-known authority into real and imaginary. The supposed +existence of the latter is, I grant, desirable, especially to the +inexperienced climber; but I shall always contend that it ought to be the +great object of every votary of the pursuit to minimise the former to the +utmost of his ability. Now, it is only by true experience—that is, by +learning gradually the art of mountaineering—that the climber will achieve +this result. Few of those unacquainted with the subject can have any idea +of the extraordinary difference between the risk run on a difficult +expedition (that is, on one where difficulties occur: the name of the peak +or pass has little to do with the matter) by a practised mountaineer who +has learned something of the art, and an inexperienced climber who has +nothing but the best intentions to assist his steps. The man of experience +bears always in mind the simple axioms and rules of his craft; if he does +not he is a bad mountaineer. If the plain truth be told, accidents in the +Alps have almost invariably, to whomsoever they befell, been due to +breaking one or more of these same well-known rules, or, in other words, +to bad mountaineering. That such is no more than a simple statement of +fact a former president of the Alpine Club, Mr. C. E. Mathews, has +abundantly proved.(14) Numbers of our countrymen, young and old, annually +rush out to the Alps for the first time. Fired with ambition, or led on by +the fascination of the pastime, with scarcely any preliminary training and +no preliminary study of the subject, they at once begin to attack the more +difficult peaks and passes. Success perhaps attends their efforts. Unfit, +they go up a difficult mountain, trusting practically to the ability of +the guides to do their employers’ share of the work as well as their own. +They descend, and think to gauge their skill by the name of the expedition +undertaken. The state of the weather and of the mountain determine whether +such a performance be an act of simple or of culpable folly. For such the +imaginary dangers are the most formidable. If they had taken the trouble +to begin at the beginning, to learn the difference between the stem and +stern of a boat before attempting to navigate an ironclad, they would have +recognised, and profited by, the true risks run. As it is, they are +probably inflated with conceit at overcoming visionary difficulties. They +may make, indeed, in this way what in Alpine slang is called a good +“book;” but by far the greater number fail to perceive that there is +anything to learn. It is a pastime—an amusement; they do not look beyond +this. But these same climbers would admit that in other forms of sport, +such as cricket or rowing, proficiency is not found in beginners. It is in +the study and development of the amusement that the true and deeper +pleasure is to be found. A tyro in cricket would make himself an object of +ridicule in a high-class match; the novice in the art of rowing would be +loth to display his feeble powers if thrust into a racing four with three +tried oarsmen; and yet the embryo climber can see nothing absurd in +attacking mountains of recognised difficulty. Inexperience in the former +instances at least could cause no harm, while ignorance of the elementary +principles of mountaineering renders the climber a serious source of +danger not only to himself but to others. There is no royal road to the +acquirement of mountaineering knowledge. It is just as difficult to use +the axe or alpenstock properly as the oar or the racquet; just as much +patient, persevering practice is needed; but it is not on difficult +expeditions that such inexperience can be best overcome. + +(M150) + +A man of average activity could, probably, actually climb, without any +particular experience, most of, or all, the more difficult rock peaks +under good conditions of weather and the like. But how different from the +really practical mountaineer, who strives to make an art of his pastime. +Watch the latter. First and foremost, he knows when to turn back, and does +not hesitate to act as his judgment directs. He bears in mind that there +is pleasure to be obtained from mountaineering even though the programme +may not be carried out in its entirety as planned, and realises to the +full that + + ’Tis better to have climbed and failed + Than never to have climbed at all. + +His companions are always safe with him, his climbing unselfish; he never +dislodges a loose stone—except purposely—either with hands, feet, or the +loose rope; he is always as firm as circumstances will permit, prepared to +withstand any sudden slip; he never puts forth more strength at each step +than is necessary, thus saving his powers, being always ready in an +emergency, and never degenerating into that most dangerous of +encumbrances, a tired member of a united party: not, of course, that the +vast majority of amateurs can ever hope, with their imperfect practice, to +attain to the level of even a second-rate guide; still, by bringing his +intelligence to bear on this, as he does on any other amusement, the +amateur can render himself something more than a thoroughly reliable +companion on any justifiable expedition. + +(M151) + +Let the spirit of competition lead young climbers to strive after +excellence in this direction, rather than, as is too commonly the case, +induce them to take “Times” as the criterion of mountaineering +proficiency. There are instructors enough. Even from an inferior guide an +infinite amount may be learnt; at the least such a one can recognise the +real danger of the Alps, and in this respect possesses a faculty which is +one of the chief the mountaineer has to acquire. Let the spirit in which +the Alps are climbed be of some such nature as that I have attempted to +indicate, and accidents such as those recorded in Mr. C. E. Mathews’ grim +list will be of such rare occurrence that they will never be called up to +discredit mountaineering. If, perchance, any words here written shall +prompt in the future the climber to perfect his art more and more while +frequenting the old haunts, and to extend and utilise mountaineering still +more, then at least the writer may feel, like the mountain when it had +brought forth the ridiculous mouse, that his labour has not been wholly in +vain. Yet more: his gloomy forebodings shall be falsified, and with +respect to the future of mountaineering the outlook will be bright enough. + + + + + LONDON: PRINTED BY + SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE + AND PARLIAMENT STREET + + + + + + + FOOTNOTES + + + M1 The survival of the unfit + M2 Sybaritic mountaineering + M3 The growth of the climbing craze + M4 A tropical day in the valley + M5 A deserted hostelry + M6 The hut above Fée + M7 How ruin seized a roofless thing + M8 On sleeping out + M9 The Südlenzspitz + M10 A plea for Saas and Fée + M11 We attack the Südlenzspitz + M12 The art of probing snow + M13 Sentiment on a summit + M14 The feast is spread + M15 Fact and romance + M16 The thirst for novelty + M17 Rock v. snow mountains + M18 The amateur and the guide + M19 The guides’ room + + 1 Franz Andermatten died in August 1883. His name is mentioned + elsewhere in these sketches, but I leave what I have written + untouched: for I do not hold with those who would efface the + recollection of all that was bright and merry in one taken from us. + + M20 A false start + M21 Falling stones in the gully + M22 Effects of reaching a summit + M23 A narrow escape + M24 The youthful tourist + M25 Hotel trials + M26 The gushers + M27 The last peaks to surrender + M28 The Aiguille du Dru + M29 The first attempt + + 2 In the old house, be it noted—not the modern luxurious combination + of a granite fortress and a palace. + + M30 First attempt on the peak + M31 Huts and sleeping out + M32 The Chamouni guide system + M33 A word on guides + M34 A landlord’s peculiarities + M35 We see a chamois + +_ 3 Travels in the Alps_, p. 119. + + M36 Doubts as to the peak + M37 Telescopic observations + M38 Franz and his mighty axe + M39 A start in the wrong direction + M40 An adjournment + M41 The expedition resumed + M42 A sticking point + M43 Beaten back + M44 Results gained + M45 Autres temps, autres mœurs + M46 The diligence arrives + M47 The Alpine habitue + M48 A family party + M49 A sepulchral bivouac + M50 On early starts + M51 The rocks of the Bietschhorn + M52 Avalanches on the Bietschhorn + M53 A dramatic situation + M54 The united party nearly fall out + M55 A limited panorama + M56 A race for home + M57 Caught out + M58 The water jump + M59 A classical banquet + M60 The old cure + M61 A “pension” in a train + M62 A youthful hero + M63 A scientific gentleman + M64 A dream of the future + M65 A condensed mountain ascent + M66 Wanted, a programme + M67 The Aiguille du Midi + M68 Ephemeral acquaintances + M69 A familiar character + M70 Halting doubts and fears + M71 The storm gathers + M72 “From gay to grave” + M73 The storm breaks + M74 A battle with the elements + M75 Beating the air + M76 Descent down Vallée Blanche + M77 A scanty repast + M78 A projected expedition + M79 Expeditions on the Aig. du Dru + M80 Other climbers attack the peak + M81 We try the northern side + M82 The mountain fever recurs + M83 The campaign opens + M84 A new leader + M85 Our sixteenth attempt + M86 Sports and pastimes + M87 Apparel oft proclaims the man + + 4 Described in anatomical text-books as forming the swelling of the + calf. + + M88 A canine acquaintance + M89 Turning point of the expedition + M90 A difficult descent + M91 A blank in the narrative + M92 A carriage misadventure + M93 A strange guide + M94 Our “jeune premier” + M95 An acrobatic performance + M96 Our nineteenth attempt + M97 The rocks of the Dru + M98 What next? + M99 A narrow escape + + 5 It has transpired since that our judgment happened to be right in + this matter, and we might probably have saved an hour or more at + this part of the ascent. + + M100 The final scramble + M101 Our foe is vanquished + M102 On the summit + M103 The return journey + M104 Benighted + M105 Shifting scenes + M106 The camp breaks up + M107 Mountaineering morality + M108 Chamouni becomes festive + M109 Organising the ball + M110 Chamouni dances + M111 The scene closes in + M112 On well-ordered intellects + M113 The critical tendency + M114 The “High Level Route” + M115 A prescription for ill-humour + M116 A meditation on grass slopes + M117 The agile person’s vagaries + M118 Ascent of the Ruinette + M119 Saas in the olden days + + 6 Hector Berlioz. + + M120 A curious omission + M121 The chef’s masterpiece + M122 An evicted family + M123 A short cut after a knife + M124 The amateur + M125 Mont Buet + M126 We hire carriages + M127 The incomplete moralist + M128 The niece to the moralist + M129 A discourse on gourmets + M130 An artistic interlude + M131 We become thoughtful + M132 A vision on the summit + M133 The mountaineers perform + M134 A banquet at the chalet + M135 The end of the journey + M136 I rise equal to the occasion + M137 A highly coloured account + M138 The critics + M139 Growth of the amusement + M140 Novelty and exploration + M141 The upward limit + + 7 This is Mr. Edward Whymper’s measurement. Humboldt, as quoted by Mr. + Whymper, gave 21,460 feet as the height. (_Alpine Journal_, vol. x. + p. 442.) + + M142 Mr. Grove’s views + +_ 8 The Frosty Caucasus_, by F. C. Grove, p. 236. + +_ 9 Travels in the Air_, edited by James Glaisher, F.R.S., p. 57 (2nd + ed.). + + M143 Mr. Glaisher’s experiences + +_ 10 Op. cit._ p. 9. + + 11 I understand that the expedition has since been accomplished in a + much shorter time. + + 12 In Messrs. Coxwell and Glaisher’s ascent from Wolverhampton the + balloon when at the height of 29,000 feet was mounting at the rate + of 1,000 feet a minute. + + 13 I am aware of M. Paul Bert’s researches; but these questions are not + to be settled in the laboratory. + + M144 Mountain acclimatisation + M145 Ascent of Mount Everest + M146 The value of mountaineering + M147 An Alpine Rip van Winkle + M148 Mountaineering in the future + M149 Dangers of the Alps + +_ 14 Vide_ _Alpine Journal_, vol. xi. p. 78. “The Alpine Obituary,” by + C. E. Mathews. + + M150 The real mountaineer + M151 Conclusion + + + + + + TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE + + +The following changes have been made to the text: + + page ix, page number “1” added + page xiv, page number “290” changed to “291” + page 31, “gulley” changed to “gully” + page 96, “sepulchra” changed to “sepulchral” + page 113, “complicate” changed to “complicated” + page 151, “thoughful” changed to “thoughtful” + page 216, “menta” changed to “mental” + page 255, “thier” changed to “their” + page 269, “in roduction” changed to “introduction” + page 310, parenthesis added before “2nd” + page 312, “developmen” changed to “development”, “gradua” changed to + “gradual” + +Variations in hyphenation (e.g. “bootlace”, “boot-lace”; “doorpost”, +“door-post”) have not been changed. + + + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ABOVE THE SNOW LINE*** + + + + CREDITS + + +March 1, 2011 + + Project Gutenberg TEI edition 1 + Produced by Greg Bergquist, Stefan Cramme, and the Online + Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This + file was produced from images generously made available by The + Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + A WORD FROM PROJECT GUTENBERG + + +This file should be named 35434‐0.txt or 35434‐0.zip. + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + + + http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/3/5/4/3/35434/ + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one — the old editions will be +renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no one +owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation (and +you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without permission +and without paying copyright royalties. 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\ No newline at end of file diff --git a/35434-0.zip b/35434-0.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..578377a --- /dev/null +++ b/35434-0.zip diff --git a/35434-8.txt b/35434-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..69811ad --- /dev/null +++ b/35434-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,8201 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Above the Snow Line by Clinton Thomas Dent + + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no +restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under +the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or +online at http://www.gutenberg.org/license + + + +Title: Above the Snow Line + +Author: Clinton Thomas Dent + +Release Date: March 1, 2011 [Ebook #35434] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO 8859-1 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ABOVE THE SNOW LINE*** + + + + + + ABOVE THE SNOW LINE + + LONDON: PRINTED BY + SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE + AND PARLIAMENT STREET + + [Illustration: THE BIETSCHHORN. FROM THE PETERSGRAT] + + + + + + ABOVE THE SNOW LINE + + MOUNTAINEERING SKETCHES + BETWEEN 1870 AND 1880 + + BY + CLINTON DENT + VICE-PRESIDENT OF THE ALPINE CLUB + + + "_Celui qui n'a jamais ses heures_ + _de folie est moins sage qu'il ne le_ + _pense_"--LA BRUYRE + + + +WITH TWO ENGRAVINGS BY EDWARD WHYMPER AND +AN ILLUSTRATION BY PERCY MACQUOID + + +LONDON +LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO. +1885 + +_All rights reserved_ + + + + + + THESE SKETCHES OF MOUNTAINEERING + I DEDICATE TO + T. I. D. + IN THE HOPE THAT A BOOK WITHOUT A HEROINE + MAY, AT LEAST, ACQUIRE SOME FEMININE INTEREST + + + + + + PREFACE + + +Some of the following sketches do not now appear for the first time; but +such as have been before published in other form have been entirely +re-written, and, in great measure, recast. + + + +To the writer the work has afforded an occasional distraction from more +serious professional work, and he cannot wish better than that it should +serve the same purpose to the reader. + +CORTINA DI AMPEZZO: +_September 1884_. + + + + + + CONTENTS + + +CHAPTER I. +AN EXPEDITION IN THE OLDEN STYLE + PAGE +Buried records--_Litera scripta manet_--The survival of the unfit--A 1 +literary octopus--Sybaritic mountaineering--On mountain +"form"--Lessons to be learned in the Alps--The growth and spread of +the climbing craze--Variations of the art--A tropical day in the +valley--A deserted hostelry--The hotel staff appears in several +characters--Ascent of the Balfrinhorn--Our baggage train and +transport department--A well-ventilated shelter--On sleeping out: +its advantages on the present occasion--The Mischabelhrner family +group--A plea for Saas and the Fe plateau--We attack the +Sdlenzspitz--The art of detecting hidden crevasses--Plans for the +future--Sentiment on a summit--The feast is spread--The +Alphubeljoch--We meet our warmest welcome at an inn +CHAPTER II. +THE ROTHHORN (MOMING) FROM ZERMATT +The Alpine dramatis person--Mountaineering fact and romance--The 31 +thirst for novelty and its symptoms--The first ascent of the +Moming--Preliminaries are observed--Rock _v._ snow mountains--The +amateur and the guide on rocks and on snow--The programme is made +out--Franz Andermatten--Falling stones in the gully--We smooth away +the difficulties--The psychological effects of reaching mountain +summits--A rock bombardment and a narrow escape--The youthful +tourist and his baggage--Hotel trials--We are interviewed--The +gushers +CHAPTER III. +EARLY ATTEMPTS ON THE AIGUILLE DU DRU +The Alps and the early mountaineers--The last peaks to 56 +surrender--The Aiguille du Dru--Messrs. Kennedy and Pendlebury's +attempt on the peak--One-day expeditions in the Alps and thoughts +on huts and sleeping out--The Chamouni guide system--A word on +guides, past and present--The somnolent landlord and his +peculiarities--Some of the party see a chamois--Doubts as to the +peak and the way--The duplicity of the Aiguille deceives +us--Telescopic observations--An ill-arranged glacier--Franz and his +mighty axe--A start on the rocks in the wrong direction--Progress +reported--An adjournment--The rocks of the lower peak of the +Aiguille du Dru--Our first failure--The expedition resumed--A new +line of ascent--We reach the sticking point--Beaten back--The +results gained by the two days' climbing +CHAPTER IV. +A DAY ACROSS COUNTRY +The art of meteorological vaticination--The climate we leave our 96 +homes for--Observations in the valley--The diligence arrives and +shoots its load--Types of travellers--The Alpine habitu--The +elderly spinster on tour--A stern Briton--A family party--We seek +fresh snow-fields--The Bietschhorn--A sepulchral bivouac--On early +starts and their curious effects on the temperament--A choice of +routes--A deceptive ice gully--The avalanches on the Bietschhorn--We +work up to a dramatic situation--The united party nearly fall +out--A limited panorama--A race for home--Caught out--A short +cut--Driven to extremities--The water jump--An aged person comes to +the rescue--A classical banquet at Ried--The old cur and his +hospitality--A wasted life? +CHAPTER V. +AN OLD FRIEND WITH A NEW FACE +Chamouni again--The hotel _clientle_--A youthful hero--The 130 +inevitable English family--A scientific gentleman--A dream of the +future--The hereafter of the Alps and of Alpine literature--A +condensed mountain ascent--Wanted, a programme--A double +"Brocken"--A hill-side phenomenon and a familiar character--A +strong argument--Halting doubts and fears--A digression on +mountaineering accidents--"From gay to grave, from lively to +severe"--The storm breaks--A battle with the elements--Beating the +air--The ridge carried by assault--What next, and next?--A +topographical problem and a cool proposal--The descent down the +Valle Blanche--The old Montanvert hotel--The Montanvert path and +its frequenters +CHAPTER VI. +ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE DU DRU +"_Decies repetita placebit_" +Disadvantages of narratives of personal adventure--Expeditions on 169 +the Aiguille du Dru in 1874--The ridge between the Aiguilles du +Dru and Verte--"Dfendu de passer par l"--Distance lends +enchantment--Other climbers attack the peak--View of the mountain +from the Col de Balme--We try the northern side, and fail more +signally than usual--Showing that mountain fever is of the +recurrent type--We take seats below, but have no opportunity of +going up higher--The campaign opens--We go under canvas--A spasmodic +start, and another failure--A change of tactics and a new +leader--Our sixteenth attempt--Sports and pastimes at Chamouni--The +art of cray-fishing--The apparel oft proclaims the man--A canine +acquaintance--A new ally--The turning-point of the expedition--A +rehearsal for the final performance--A difficult descent--A blank +in the narrative--A carriage misadventure--A penultimate failure--We +start with two guides and finish with one--The rocks of the +Dru--Maurer joins the party--Our nineteenth attempt--A narrow escape +in the gully--The arte at last--The final scramble--Our foe is +vanquished and decorated--The return journey--Benighted--A moonlight +descent--We are graciously received--On "fair" mountaineering--The +prestige of new peaks--Chamouni becomes festive--"Heut' Abend +grosses Feuerwerkfest"--Chamouni dances and shows hospitality--The +scene closes in +CHAPTER VII. +BYE-DAYS IN ALPINE MIDLANDS +1. _A Pardonable Digression._ +On well-ordered intellects--The drawbacks of accurate +memory--Sub-Alpine walks: their admirers and their +recommendations--The "High-Level Route"--The Ruinette--An infallible +prescription for ill-humour--A climb and a meditation on grass +slopes--The agile person's acrobatic feats--The psychological +effects of sunrise--The ascent of the Ruinette--We return to our +mutton at Arolla--A vision on the hill-side. +2. _A Little Maiden._ +Saas in the olden days--A neglected valley--The mountains drained 236 +dry--A curious omission--The Portienhorn, and its good points as a +mountain--The chef produces a masterpiece--An undesirable tenement +to be let unfurnished--An evicted family--A rapid act of +mountaineering--On the pleasures of little climbs--The various +methods of making new expeditions on one mountain--On the +mountaineer who has nothing to learn, and his consequent +ignorance +CHAPTER VIII. +A SENTIMENTAL ALPINE JOURNEY +Long "waits" and entr'actes--The Mont Buet as an unknown 266 +mountain--We hire carriages--A digression on a stationary vehicle--A +straggling start--The incomplete moralist--The niece to the +moralist--A discourse on gourmets--An artistic interlude--We become +thoughtful, and reach the height of sentiment and the top of the +Mont Buet--Some other members of the party--The mountaineers +perform--How glissading ambition did o'erleap itself--A vision on +the summit--The moralist leaves us for a while--Entertainment at +the Brard Chalet--View of the Aiguille Verte--The end of the +journey +CHAPTER IX. +A FRAGMENT +An unauthentic MS.--Solitude on the mountain: its advantages to 291 +the historian of the Alps--A rope walk--The crossing of the +Schrund--A novel form of avalanche and an airy situation--A +towering obstacle--The issue of the expedition in the balance--A +very narrow escape--The final rush--Victory!--The perils of the +descent--I plunge _in medias res_--A flying descent +CHAPTER X. +THE FUTURE OF MOUNTAINEERING +Mountaineers and their critics--The early days of the Alpine 300 +Club--The founders of mountaineering--The growth of the +amusement--Novelty and exploration--The formation of +centres--Narrowing of the field of mountaineering--The upward limit +of mountaineering--De Saussure's experience--Modern development of +climbing--Mr. Whymper's experience--Mr. Graham's experience--The +ascent of great heights--Mr. Grove's views--Messrs. Coxwell and +Glaisher's balloon experiences--Reasons for dissenting from Mr. +Glaisher's views--The possibility of ascending Mount +Everest--Physiological aspect of the question--Acclimatisation to +great heights--The direction in which mountaineering should be +developed--The results that may be obtained--Chamouni a century +hence--A Rip van Winkle in the Pennine Alps--The dangers of +mountaineering--Conclusion + + ----------- + +ILLUSTRATIONS +THE BIETSCHHORN FROM THE PETERSGRAT _Frontispiece_ +THE AIGUILLE DU DRU FROM THE SOUTH _to face page_ 169 +A VISION ON A SUMMIT " 282 + + + + + + + ABOVE THE SNOW LINE + + + + + + CHAPTER I. + + + AN EXPEDITION IN THE OLDEN STYLE + + + Buried records--_Litera scripta manet_--The survival of the unfit--A + literary octopus--Sybaritic mountaineering--On mountain + "form"--Lessons to be learned in the Alps--The growth and spread of + the climbing craze--Variations of the art--A tropical day in the + valley--A deserted hostelry--The hotel staff appears in several + characters--Ascent of the Balfrinhorn--Our baggage train and + transport department--A well-ventilated shelter--On sleeping out: + its advantages on the present occasion--The Mischabelhrner family + group--A plea for Saas and the Fe plateau--We attack the + Sdlenzspitz--The art of detecting hidden crevasses--Plans for the + future--Sentiment on a summit--The feast is spread--The + Alphubeljoch--We meet our warmest welcome at an inn. + + +There exists a class of generously-minded folk who display a desire to +improve their fellow-creatures and a love for their species, by referring +pointedly to others for the purpose of mentioning that the objects of +their remarks have never been guilty of certain enormities: a critical +process, which is about equivalent to tarring an individual, but, from +humanitarian considerations, omitting to feather him also. The ordeal, as +applied to others, is unwarrantable; but there is a certain odd pleasure +in subjecting oneself to it. Now, it is but a paraphrase to say that the +more we go about, the more, in all probability, shall we be strengthened +in the conviction that the paradise of fools must have a large acreage. +The average Briton has a constantly present dread that he is likely to do +something to justify his admission into that department of Elysium. The +thought that he has so qualified, will wake him up if it crosses his mind +even in a dream, or make his blood run cold--whatever that may mean--in his +active state. Thus it falls out that he is for ever, as it were, conning +over the pass-book of his actions, and marvelling how few entries he can +find on the credit side, as he does so. It is asserted as a fact (and it +were hard to gainsay the sentiment), that _Litera scripta manet_. No +doubt; but how much more obtrusively true is it that printed matter is as +indestructible as the Hydra? It has occurred sometimes to the writer, on +very, very sleepless nights, to take down from a shelf, to slap the cover +in order to get rid of a considerable amount of dust, and to peruse, in a +volume well-known to all members of the Alpine Club, accounts written +years before, of early mountain expeditions. To trace in some such way, at +any rate to search for, indications of a fancied development of mind has a +curious fascination for the solitary man. Effusions which an author would +jealously hide away from the eyes of his friends, have a strangely +absorbing interest to the man who reflects that he himself was their +perpetrator. + +(M1) + +We most of us, whatever principles we assert on the matter, keep stowed +away, in some corner or another, the overflow of a fancied talent. The +form varies: it may, perhaps, be a five act tragedy, possibly a +psychological disquisition, or a sensational novel in three volumes of MS. +It is a satisfaction to turn such treasures out from time to time when no +eyes are upon us, even if it be only to thank Heaven devoutly that they +have always lain unknown and uncriticised. "Il n'y a rien qui rafraichisse +le sang comme d'avoir su viter de faire une sottise." Of work done, of +which the author had no especial reason to be proud, a feeling of +thankfulness in a lesser degree may arise from the consciousness that, if +ever recognised at all, it is now, happily, forgotten. So have these early +effusions sometimes amused, not infrequently astounded, and at the worst +have nearly always brought the wished-for slumber; and yet in Alpine +writings the same accounts were for the most part as faithful +representations as the writer could set down on paper of impressions made +at the time. It has often occurred to me to ask what manner of description +a writer would give of an expedition made many years before. How would the +lapse of time influence him? Would he make light of whatever danger there +was? Would the picture require a very decided coat of varnish to make it +at all recognisable? Would the crudities come out still more strongly, or +would the colours all have faded and sunk harmoniously together in his +picture? The speculation promised to be interesting enough to make it +worth while to give practical effect to the idea. Now the expedition +narrated in this chapter was made in 1870, and possibly, therefore, if a +description were worth giving at all, it had better have been given fresh. +We can always find some proverb tending more or less to justify any course +of action that we may be desirous of pursuing, and by distorting the +meaning of a quotation manage to serve our own ends. Of all the ill-used +remarks of this nature, surely the most often employed is, "Better late +than never;" the extreme elasticity of which saying, in the application +thereof, is well evidenced by the doctor who employed it in justification +of his late arrival when he came on a professional visit to the lady and +found the baby learning its alphabet. + +(M2) + +When an aquarium was a fashionable resort, amongst a good many queer and +loose fish, we became familiar with a monstrously ill-favoured beast +called a cuttle-fish: and may have had a chance of seeing how the animal, +if attacked by his physical superior, resorted to the ingenious plan of +effusing a quantity of ink, and, under cover of this, retreating hastily +backwards out of harm's way. There are some, less ingenuous than the +Octopus, who retreat first into obscurity and then pour out their effusion +of ink. But it is more common to use the flare of an epigram or of a +proverb, as a conjurer does his wand, to distract attention for the moment +and divert the thought current from matters we do not wish to be too +evident. At any rate, I must in the present instance lay under tribute the +author of Proverbs, and add another straw to the already portentous burden +that they who wish to compound for literary sins have already piled on his +back. Apologising is, however, a dangerous vice, as a well-known writer +has remarked. The account, though a sort of literary congenital cripple, +has still a prescriptive right to live. Besides this expedition was +undertaken in the pre-Sybaritic age of mountaineering, and before the +later refinements of that art and science had taken firm hold of its +votaries. What would the stern explorers of former time have thought, or +said, if they had perceived persons engaged on the glaciers sitting down +on camp-stools to a light refection of truffle pie and cold punch? Such +banquets are not uncommon now, though precisians with a tendency to +dyspepsia still object strongly to them. In those days, too, mountaineers +were not so much differentiated that climbers were talked of by their +fellows like cricketers are described in the book of Lillywhite. "Jones," +for instance, "is a brilliant cragsman, but inclined to be careless on +moraines." "Noakes," again, "remarkably sure and steady on snow, fairly +good in a couloir, would do better if he did not possess such an +astounding appetite and would pay more attention to the use of the rope." +"Stokes possesses remarkable knowledge of the Alps; on rocks climbs with +his head; we wish we could say honestly that he can climb at all with his +hands and feet." "Thompson, first-rate step-cutter; walks on snow with the +graceful gait and unlaboured action of a shrimp-catcher at his work: kicks +down every loose stone he touches." Thus different styles of climbing are +recognised. "Form," as it is called in climbing, was in the old days an +unknown term, and yet it is probable that the "form" was by no means +inferior to any that can be shown now-a-days. The reason is obvious enough +and the explanation lies simply in the fact that the apprenticeship served +in the mountains was then much longer than it is now. People did not so +often try to ride a steeple-chase before they had learnt to sit in a +saddle, or appreciated that the near side was the best by which to get up. +When this particular expedition was made (towards which I feel that I am +an unconscionable time in making a start) I had been five or six seasons +in the Alps, during the first two of which I had never set foot on a +snow-slope. There had always seemed to me from the first, to be so much +absolutely to learn in mountaineering: there is no less now, indeed there +is more, for the science has been developed, but it seems beyond doubt, +that fewer people recognise the fact. Like most other arts, it can only be +learnt in one way, by constant practice, by constant care and attention +and by always doing everything in the mountains to the best of one's +ability. Too many may seem to think that there is a royal road, and fail +to recognise that a plebeian does not alter his status by walking along +this variety of highway. + +(M3) + +Time rolled on. The fascination of climbing spread abroad, and it followed +with the increasing number of mountaineers that more and more difficulties +were experienced in attempts to diversify the sport in the Alps alone, and +in emerging from the common herd of climbers. Then a new danger arose. The +sport grew fashionable--a serious symptom to its true lovers. Books of +Alpine adventure readily found readers; novels, and other forms of +nonsense, were written about the mountains; accounts of new expeditions +were telegraphed at once to all parts of the world, and found as important +a place in the newspapers as the Derby betting, or the latest reports as +to the precise medical details of some eminent person's internal +complaint. Still further did the craving for novelty spread, and more +strange did the means of satisfying it become. The mountains were ascended +without guides: in winter; by people afflicted with mental aberration who +wore tall hats and frock coats on the glaciers; by persons who were +ignorant of the laws of optics as applied to large telescopes; in bad +weather, by wrong routes and so forth. Then, too, set in what may be +called the variation craze. This is very infectious. For those who can see +no beauty in a scene that some one else has gazed on before it is still a +passion. We may still at times, in the Alps, hear people say, "Oh yes, +that is a very fine expedition, no doubt, but I don't think I care much +about undertaking it; you see so and so has done it; couldn't we manage to +strike out a different line?" The result is a "variation" expedition. The +composer when hard driven, and not strongly under the influence of the +Muse, will at times take some innocent, simple melody and submit it to +exquisite torture by writing what he is pleased to call variations. +Sometimes he will not rest till he has perpetrated as many as thirty-two +on some innocent little tune of our childhood. The original air becomes +entirely lost, like a sixpence buried in a flour bag, and we may marvel, +for instance, as may the travelled American, at the immense amount of +foreign matter that may be introduced into "Home, sweet home." Even so +does the climber sometimes practise his art. But for one who entertains a +strict respect for the old order of things, and for the memory of an age +of mountaineering now rapidly passing into oblivion, to write in any such +strain would be intolerable. And so, even as a theatrical manager when his +brilliant play, stolen, or, as it is generally described, "adapted," from +the French, does not run, I may be allowed to raise the curtain on a +revival of the old drama, a comedy in one short act, and not provided with +any very thrilling "situations." The "scenarium" lay ready to hand in the +leaves of an old journal, which may possibly share, with other old leaves, +the property of being rather dry. But we are meandering, as it were, in +the valleys, and run some risk of digressing too far from the path which +should lead to the mountain in hand. There is a story of a clergyman who +selected a rather long text as a preface to his discourse, and finding, +when he had read it at length a second time, that his congregation were +mostly disposed in attitudes which might be of attention, but which were, +at the same time, suggestive of slumber, wisely concluded to defer +enlarging upon it till a more fitting occasion, and dismissed his hearers, +or at any rate those present, with the remark that they had heard his text +and that he would not presume to mar its effectiveness by any exordium +upon it. _Revenons._ + +(M4) + +In the early part of August 1870, our party walked one sultry day up the +Saas Valley. The dust glittered thick and yellow on our boots. Many of the +smaller brooks had struck work altogether, while the main river was +reduced to a clear stream trickling lazily down between sloping banks of +rounded white boulders that shone with a painful glare in the strong +sunlight. The more muscular of the grasshoppers found their limbs so +lissom in the warmth that they achieved the most prodigious leaps out of +sheer lightheartedness; for they sprang so far that they could have had no +definite idea where they might chance to light. On the stone walls busy +little lizards, with heaving flanks, scurried about with little fitful +spurts, and vanished abruptly into the crannies, perpetually playing hide +and seek with each other, and always seeming out of breath. The foliage +drooped motionless in the heavy air and the shadows it cast lengthened +along the dusty ground as steadily as the streak on a sundial. The smoke +from the guides' pipes (and guides, like itinerant nigger minstrels, +always have pipes in their mouths when moving from the scene of one +performance to another) hung in mid air, and the vile choking smell of the +sputtering lucifer matches was perceptible when the laggards reached the +spot where a man a hundred yards ahead had lighted one of these +abominations. + +To pass under the shade of a walnut tree was refreshing like a cold +douche; and to step forth again into the heat and glare made one almost +gasp. Flannel shirts were miserably inadequate to the strain put upon +their absorbent qualities. The potatoes and cabbages were white and +piteously dusty. Even the pumpkins seemed to be trying to bury their plump +forms in the cool recesses of the earth. Everywhere there seemed a +consciousness as of a heavy droning hum. All of which may be concisely +summed up in the now classical opening remark of a well-known comedy +character, one "Perkyn Middlewick" to wit, "It's 'ot." + +(M5) + +When within a little distance of the hotel I enquired whether it was worth +while for one of the party to push on to secure rooms. The guides thought, +on the whole, that it was unnecessary, and this opinion was justified +subsequently by the fact that we found ourselves the sole occupants of the +hotel during the week or so that we remained in the district. It was the +year of the war; ugly rumours were about, but very few tourists. +Selecting, therefore, the most luxurious apartment, and having given over +to the care of one Franz, who appeared in the character of "boots" to the +hotel, a remarkable pair of cowhide brogues of original design, as hard as +sabots and much more uncomfortable, I sat down on a stone slab, in order +to cool down to a temperature that might permit of dining without fear of +imperilling digestion. So pleased were the hotel authorities at the +presence of a traveller that they exerted themselves to the utmost to +entertain us well, and with remarkable results. I find a record of the +dinner served. There were ten dishes in consecutive order, exclusive of +what Americans term "fixings." As to the nature of nine it was difficult +to speak with any degree of certainty, but the tenth was apparently a +blackbird that had perished of starvation and whose attenuated form the +chef had bulged out with extraneous matter. Franz, who seemed to be a sort +of general utility man to the establishment, had thrown off, with the ease +of a Gomersal or a Ducrow, the outward habiliments of a boots and appeared +now as a waiter, in a shirt so hard and starched that he was unable to +bend and could only button his waistcoat by the sense of touch. The repast +over, Franz removed the shirt front and unbent thereupon in manner as in +person. Assuming engaging airs, he entered into conversation, disappearing +however for short intervals at times, in order, as might be inferred from +certain sounds proceeding from an adjoining apartment, to discharge the +duties of a chamber-maid. Subsequently it transpired that he was the +proprietor of the hotel. + +(M6) + +We agreed to commence our mountaineering by an ascent of the Balfrinhorn, +a most charming walk and one which even in those days was considered a +gentle climb. There are few peaks about this district which will better +repay the climber of moderately high ambition, and it is possible to +complete the expedition without retracing the steps. There is no danger, +and it is hard to say to what part of the mountain an enthusiast would +have to go in order to discover any: so the expedition, though perhaps +prosaic, is still very interesting throughout and quite in the olden +style. The solitude at the hotel was somewhat dull, and the conversational +powers of the guides soon exhausted if we travelled beyond the subject of +chamois hunting, I did indeed try on one occasion to explain to them, in +answer to an earnest request, the military system of Great Britain. But, +with a limited vocabulary, the task was not easy and, as I could not think +of any words to express what was meant by red tape, circumlocution, and +short service, my exposition was limited to enlarging on the facts that +the warriors of my native country were exceeding valiant folk with very +fine chests, that they wore highly padded red coats and little hats like +half bonbon boxes cocked on one side and that they would never consent to +be slaves. Burgener, anxious for some more stirring expedition, suggested +that we should climb the Dom from the Saas side or make a first ascent of +the Sdlenzspitz. We had often talked of the former expedition, which had +not at the time been achieved, and, in order to facilitate its +accomplishment, divers small grants of money had been sent out from +England to be expended in the construction of a hut some five hours' walk +above Fe. In answer to enquiries, the guides reported with no small +amount of pride, that the building had been satisfactorily completed and +they were of opinion that it was ready for occupation. At some length the +process of building was described and it really seemed from their account +that they had caused to be erected a shelter of unduly pretentious +dimensions. It appeared, however, that the residence was equally well +placed to serve as a shelter for an ascent of the Sdlenzspitz and we +decided ultimately to attack that peak first. Great preparations were +made; an extensive assortment of very inferior blankets was produced and +spread out in the road in front of the hotel, either for airing or some +other ill-defined purpose, possibly from some natural pride in the +extensive resources of the hotel. Then they pulled down and piled into a +little stack, opposite the front door, fire wood enough to roast an ox, or +convert an enthusiast into a saint. + +(M7) + +One fine afternoon we started. The entire staff and _personnel_ of the +hotel would have turned out to wish us good luck, but did not actually do +so, as he was engaged in a back shed milking a cow. Laden with a large +bundle of fire wood, I toiled up the steep grass slopes above Fe, leading +to the Hochbalm glacier. The day was oppressively hot, and I was not +wholly ungrateful on finding that the string round my bundle was loose and +that the sticks dropped out one after another: accordingly I selected a +place in the extreme rear of the caravan, lest my delinquencies should +perchance be observed. The sun beat mercilessly down upon our backs on +these bare slopes and we sighed involuntarily for Vallombrosa or Monaco or +some equally shady place. The guides, who up to that time had spoken of +their building as if it were of somewhat palatial dimensions, now began +rather to disparage the construction. Doubts were expressed as to the +effects certain storms and heavy falls of snow might have had on it and +regrets that the weather had prevented the builders from attending as +minutely to details of finish and decoration as they could have wished. +Putting this and that together, I came to the conclusion that the erection +would probably be found to display but indifferent architectural merit. +However, there was nothing better to look forward to. "Where is it?" "Oh, +right up there, under the big cliff, close to where Alexander is." In the +dim distance could be distinguished the form of our guide as a little dark +mass progressing on two pink flesh-coloured streaks, striding rapidly up +the hill. The phenomenon of colour was due to the fact that, prompted by +the sultriness of the day, Alexander had adopted in his garb a temporary +variation of the Highland costume. A few minutes later he joined us, +clothed indeed, and in a right, but still a melancholy frame of mind. +Shaking his head sadly, he explained that a grievous disaster had taken +place, evidently in the spring. The forebodings of the +constructively-minded rustics we had left below, who knew about as much of +architecture as they did of metaphysics, proved now to be true. They had +remarked that they feared lest some chance stone should have fallen, and +possibly have inflicted damage on the hut. Why they had selected a site +where such an accident might happen, was not at the moment quite obvious, +but it became so later on. Burgener told us that the roof had been carried +away. Beyond question the roof was gone; at any rate it was not there, and +the rock must have fallen in a remarkable way indeed, for the cliff above +was slightly overhanging, and the falling boulder, which was held +accountable for the disaster, had carried away every vestige of wood-work +about the place, not leaving even a splinter or a chip. However, to the +credit of the builders, be it said that they had tidied up and swept very +nicely, for there was no sawdust to be seen anywhere, nor indeed, any +trace of carpentering work. The hut consequently resolved itself into a +semi-circular stone wall, very much out of the perpendicular, built +against a rock face. The chief architect, evidently a thoughtful person, +had not omitted to leave a door. But it was easier on the whole to step +over the wall, which I did, with as much scorn as Remus himself could have +thrown into the action when seeking to aggravate his brother Romulus. So +we entered into possession of the premises without, at any rate, the +trouble of any preliminary legal formalities. + +(M8) + +In the matter of sleeping out, all mountaineers pass, provided they keep +long enough at it, through three stages. In the early period, when imbued +with what has been poetically termed the "ecstatic alacrity" of youth, +they burn with a desire to undergo hardship on mountains. Possibly a +craving for sympathy in discomfort--that most universal of human +attributes--prompts them to spend their nights in the most unsuitable +places for repose. The practical carrying out of this tendency is apt to +freeze very literally their ardour; at least, it did so in our case. Then +follows a period during which the climber laughs to scorn any idea of +dividing his mountain expedition. He starts the moment after midnight and +plods along with a gait as free and elastic as that of a stage pilgrim or +a competitor in a six days' "go-as-you-please" pedestrian contest: for +those who have a certain gift of somnambulism this method has its +advantages. Finally comes a stage when the climber's one thought is to get +all the enjoyment possible out of his expedition and to get it in the way +that seems best at the time. Now again he may be found at times tenanting +huts, or the forms of shelter which are supposed to represent them. But +his manner is changed; he no longer travels burdened with the impedimenta +of his earlier days. He never looks at his watch now, except to ascertain +the utmost limit of time he can dwell on a view. With advancing years and +increasing Alpine wisdom, he derides the idea of accurately timing an +expedition. His pedometer is probably left at home; he eats whenever he is +hungry, and ceases to consider it a _sine qu non_ that he must return to +hotel quarters in time for dinner. Nor does he ever commit the youthful +folly of walking at the rate of five miles an hour along the mule path in +the valley or the high road at the end of an expedition, gaining thereby +sore feet and absolutely nothing else. When he has reached this stage, +however, he is considered _pass_; and when he has reached this stage he +probably begins really to appreciate to the full the depth of the charm to +be found in mountaineering. + +But I digress even as the driven pig. A miserable night did we spend +behind the stone wall. About 9 P.M. came a furious hail-storm: at 10 P.M. +rain fell heavily: at 11 P.M. snow began and went on till daybreak about 4 +A.M. At 5 A.M. we got up quite stiff and stark like a recently killed +villain of melodrama, when carried off the stage by four supers. By 6 A.M. +I had got into my boots. At 9 A.M. we swooped down once more on Franz at +the hotel at Saas, persuaded him to relinquish certain scavenging +occupations in which he was engaged, and to resume his post of waiter. A +day or two later we sought our shelter once more. No luxurious provisions +did we take with us. Some remarkable red wine, so sour that it forced one +involuntarily to turn the head round over the shoulder on drinking it, +filled one knapsack. The other contained slices of bread with parallel +strata of a greasy nature intervening. These were spoken of, when we had +occasion to allude to them, as sandwiches. The fat was found to be an +excellent emollient to my boots. + +(M9) + +The Sdlenzspitz, though tall, labours under the topographical +disadvantage of being placed in the company of giants. Close by, on the +north side, is the Nadelhorn (14,876 ft.), while to the south, at no great +distance, the Dom towers far above, reaching a height of 14,942 feet. In +the Federal map of Switzerland (which is not very accurate in its +delineation of the Saas district), the height of the Sdlenzspitz is +marked as 14,108 ft. North and south from the Sdlenzspitz, stretch away +well-marked, but not particularly sharp ridges, the northern being chiefly +of snow, and inclined at a moderate angle. To the east, a sharper rocky +ridge falls away, terminating below, after the fashion of a "rational" +divided skirt, in two undecided continuations which enclosed the Fall +glacier. Climbing up by this ridge, Mr. W. W. Graham ascended the mountain +in 1882. The "variation" is described as presenting very serious +difficulties. But in our day, the old-fashioned custom of ascending +mountains by the most obviously practicable way was still in vogue, and we +decided, therefore, to make for the northern buttress. Leaping over the +wall enclosing the ground-floor of our bivouac, we descended on to the +Hochbalm glacier, made our way across the upper snow basin, and in good +time reached the foot of the slope no great distance south of the +Nadelhorn. The view during this part of the walk is very characteristic of +the range. From almost any point of view, the traveller is surrounded on +three sides by a clearly marked amphitheatre of very beautifully formed +mountains. On the right, the shapely little Ulrichshorn rises up in a +self-sufficient manner, like a single artichoke in a vegetable dish. In +front is the mass of the Nadelhorn and Sdlenzspitz, while, looking back, +the view of the mountains on the east side of the Saas valley is one of +great and varied beauty. It must be confessed that these statements are +derived principally from a contemplation of the map, for, to tell the +truth, the recollection of the panorama we actually saw is rather +indistinct. This much, however, I may record with confidence; that in all +parts of the Saas district, the views struck me, in a day when I did not +very much look at them, as possessing strong individuality and the +greatest beauty. + +(M10) + +The Zermatt district may be still more striking, and they who have no time +to visit both, no doubt do wisely to seek the more hackneyed valley. But +for such as do not look upon guide-book statements as the dicta of an +autocrat, and can exercise a thousandth part of the independence of +judgment they manifest in the ordinary affairs of life, a brief deviation +to the Saas country will come as a revelation. After the crowd, dust, and +bustle of the highway to the recognised centre of the Alps, to turn aside +to this region is a relief, like stepping out of a crowded ball-room on to +a verandah, or gliding away in a gondola from the railway station at +Venice. Look, too, at the architecture of the great mountains here, and +the spectator will perceive how nature has succeeded to perfection in +achieving what all artists fail in doing; that is in designing, and in a +manner that precludes criticism, a pendant; and a pendant too to the +Zermatt panorama. The necessary object in the foreground of the +picture--which we all know to be an hotel--is provided. Who but nature would +think of framing a pure white picture in a setting of the soft green +pastures below, and the deep blue sky above? but here it is, and it is +perfect. Yet the blue of the sky is repeated in the picture, for the +towering sracs throw azure shadows on the satin-smooth snow slopes at +their feet. Rest, strength, eternal solidity above in the mountain forms +and crags; repose, softness, and the charm of a brightness below that must +yield and fade before long to gather force for fresh development and +renewal. No need to seek far for a parallel in our human world. Between +the two districts, Zermatt and Saas-Fe, there is but the difference +between the man who impresses at once by the force of character, and the +man who has to be studied and learned before we recognise that he is +something beyond the ordinary run of our fellow-creatures. + +(M11) + +Before leaving England we had made tolerably minute inquiries, but had +failed to discover any record of a previous ascent of the Sdlenzspitz, +though, as suggested by Mr. W. M. Conway, the mountain may have been +previously climbed by Mr. Chapman. Some uncertainty, therefore, whether we +should find any traces of previous climbers, gave the required piquancy to +the expedition. We made at once up the slope for a long rocky buttress, +and towards a part of the mountain down which the guides asserted stones +had been known to fall in the afternoon. This statement was probably made +with a view of encouraging their charge to greater exertions, for an old +sprained ankle compelled me to the continual necessity of putting my best +foot foremost in walking over difficult places. Still, the rocks were at +no point very formidable, and progress was rendered somewhat easier by the +fact that no critical companion was with me, so I felt at perfect liberty +to transport myself upwards in any style that happened to suit the +exigencies of the moment. I had not at that time quite passed the stage of +believing all that the guides asserted with reference to the climbing +capacities of the individual who pays them for assisting his locomotion, +and had a distinct idea that I mastered all the obstacles in a +particularly skilful manner. They said as much in fact, but reiterated +their compliments so often that I somewhat fear now that I must frequently +have given occasion for these remarks of approbation; remarks which I have +since observed are more frequently called forth to cover a blunder than to +praise an exhibition of science. Probably my progress was about as +graceful and sure as that of a weak-legged puppy placed for the first time +in its life on a frozen pond, or a cockroach seeking to escape from the +entrapping basin, for I had not then developed, in climbing rocks, the +adhesive powers of--say the chest, which longer practice will sometimes +furnish. We were accompanied by a porter of advanced years whose +conversational powers were limited by an odd practice of carrying heavy +parcels in his mouth. The day before he had carried up a large beam of +wood for the camp fire in this manner. I never met a man with so much jaw +and so little talk. He had apparently come out in order to practise +himself for the mastication of the Saas mutton, for at the end of the day +he would accept of nothing but a sum of two francs, for which I was very +thankful. Similar disinterestedness in men of his class is not often met +with nowadays. + +(M12) + +After awhile we left the buttress of rock and turned our attention to a +snow slope and made our way up its crest. Here steps were necessary but +there was no particular difficulty, for the slope resembled a modern +French drawing-room tragedy, in that it was as broad as it was long. We +had but to feel that the rope was taut, and could then look about with +security. In good time we stepped on to the ridge, and a glance upwards +showed that the way was easy enough. We could not but feel that if we were +to achieve the honour of a first ascent, such honour would be principally +due to the fact that we had subdivided the secondary peaks of the chain +more minutely than other travellers. The principle has been carried still +further in these latter days, and as any little pale fish that can be +caught and fried is considered whitebait, and any article that ladies +choose to attach to their heads is termed a bonnet, so any point that can +be climbed by an individual line of ascent is now held to be a separate +mountain. A considerable snow cornice hung over on the northern side of +the arte and great care was necessary, for the ridge itself was so broad +and easy, that less careful guides might have made light of it; but +Burgener, though he had already acquired a reputation for brilliancy and +dash, never suffered himself for one moment to lose sight of the two great +qualities in a guide, caution and thoroughness. At each step he probed the +snow in front of him with all the diligence of a chiffonnier. It followed +that our progress was somewhat slow, but it was none the less highly +instructive. The accurate sense of touch in probing doubtful snow with the +axe requires and deserves very much more practice than most people would +imagine. The unpractised mountaineer may climb with more or less ease a +difficult rock the first time he is brought face to face with it, but long +and carefully acquired experience is necessary before a man can estimate +with certainty the bearing power of a snow bridge with a single thrust of +the axe. Indeed many guides of reputation either do not possess or never +acquire the muscular sense necessary to enable them to form a reliable +opinion on this matter. As a rule, if the rope be properly used and such a +mistake be made, somebody plunges through, is hauled out again and no harm +is done; but there are occasions when serious accidents have happened, +when probably lives have been lost owing to want of skilled knowledge in +this detail of snow mountaineering. I have known guides who never failed +when they came to a treacherous-looking bridge, to give it one apparently +careless thrust with the axe and then walk across with perfect confidence; +and I have seen others do exactly the same and disappear suddenly to cool +regions below through the bridge; and _vice vers_. The unskilful prober +will make wide detours when he might go in safety, and the man of good +snow touch will avoid what looks sound enough: till in returning, perhaps +you see that the hard crust concealed but rotten things beneath: as in an +ill-made dumpling. It needs no small amount of training to judge between +the man who quickly and with certainty satisfies himself of the safety of +a particular snow passage, and the man who is too careless properly to +investigate it; yet without such experience the amateur is not really able +to decide whether a guide be a good or a bad one. + +(M13) + +Here and there along the ridge short rock passages gave a welcome relief +and at length we stood on the highest point of the ridge which culminates +so gently in the actual peak of the Sdlenzspitz. Our first care was to +scrape about and hunt diligently for traces of any previous party. No +relic of conviviality could be found, and as all the flat stones about +appeared to be in their natural state of disorder, we piled up some of +them into a neat little heap, and came to the conclusion that we had +performed very doughty deeds. But we were younger then. The sun was out, +there was a dead calm, and we lay for a while basking in the warmth and +planning a serious expedition for some future year. It may seem strange in +these days of rocket-like mountaineering when the climber, like the poet, +_nascitur non fit_, but the peak whose assault we discussed was none other +than the Matterhorn. It was no longer thought that goblins and elves +tenanted its crags; but although these spectres had not yet been +frightened away and turned out of house and home by sardine boxes and +broken bottles, some trace of prestige still adhered to the mountain. It +had not then, like a galley slave, been bound with chains, or, even as a +trussed chicken, girt about with many cords. Nor was the ascent of the +peak then talked about as carelessly as might be a walk along Margate +pier. Alexander Burgener had never been up the peak, though he was most +anxious to get an opportunity of doing so. I can remember well the advice +that was given to me on the top of the Sdlenzspitz to practise further on +a few less formidable mountains before attacking the fascinating Mont +Cervin itself. Alas for the old days and the old style of mountaineering! +It may be doubted whether such discussions often take place nowadays; but +then it was only my sixth season in the Alps. The following year we did +hatch out the project laid on the top of the Sdlenzspitz to climb the +Matterhorn together. To this moment I can remember as I write every detail +of the climb and every incident of the day as vividly as if it were +yesterday; and what a splendid expedition it was then. The old, old +fascination can never come back again in quite the same colours; better, +perhaps, that it should not. Is it always true that "a sorrow's crown of +sorrow is remembering happier things"? Surely there is a keenness and a +depth of pleasure to be found in recalling happiness, though it may never +return in its old form; and the memory of pleasure just toned with a trace +of sadness is one of the most profound emotions that can stir the human +heart. Go on and climb the Alps ye that follow: nowhere else will you find +the same pleasure. But it is changed, and in this amusement the old +fascination will never be quite the same to you. It may be, it will be, +equally keen, but as there is a difference between skating on virgin ice +and that which, though still good, is scored by marks of predecessors, so +will you fail to find a something which in the olden days of +mountaineering seemed always present. Go elsewhere if you will, and seek +fresh fields for mountaineering enterprise in the Caucasus, the Himalayas, +the Andes. There you will find the mountains have a charm of their own: +the mark is as good, but it is not the Alpine mark. That has been taken by +others. _Beati possidentes._ + +(M14) + +Judging by the nature of these sentiments it would seem that we must have +become pensive to the verge of slumber while on the summit. In descending, +we followed our morning's tracks, and scorning the seductive shelter of +the hut made straight down for the hotel. On this occasion we found Franz, +who was a man of varied resources and accomplishments, hanging his shirt, +which apparently he had just washed, up to dry. Our unexpected arrival +appeared to disconcert him a little, for the straitened nature of his +wardrobe precluded him, to his great disappointment, from appearing at +dinner in full costume. He conceived, however, an ingenious, though +somewhat transparent subterfuge, and made believe that he had got a bad +cold in the chest which compelled him to button his coat up tight round +the neck. In honour of our achievements he said he would go down to the +cellar and bring us up a curious old wine. The cellar consisted apparently +of a packing-case in a shed. Old the wine may have been; curious it +certainly was, for it possessed a strong heathery flavour and seemed to +turn hot very suddenly and stick fast in the throat like champagne at a +suburban charity ball. But nevertheless, with the remnants of the +blackbird or some other _rara avis_ made into a species of pie, we feasted +royally. + +A few days later we crossed over to Zermatt by the Alphubel Joch, a heavy +fall of snow having prevented any idea of making our contemplated assault +on the Dom. A Swiss gentleman of a lively nature and excessive loquacity +accompanied us. He was not an adroit snow walker, and disappeared on some +five or six occasions abruptly into crevasses. The moment, however, that +he got his head out again, he resumed his narrative at the exact point at +which it had been perforce broken off without exhibiting the least +discomposure. The subject to which his remarks referred I did not succeed +in ascertaining. We parted at a little chalet not far from the Riffel, +leaving our friend lying flat on his back on the grass contemplating the +sky with a fixed expression, with his hands folded over his waistcoat. He +may have been a poet inspired with a sudden desire for composition for +aught I know, or may have assumed this attitude as likely to facilitate +the absorption of a prodigious quantity of milk which he took at the +chalet. + +As we drew nearer to the odd mixture of highly coloured huts and +comfortable hotels that make up the village of Zermatt, a sense of +returning home crept over the mind, a consciousness of friends at hand, of +warm welcomes, mixed with the half presentiment that is always felt on +such occasions, that some change would be found; but happily it was not +so. The roadway was in its former state; the cobble stones a trifle more +irregular and worn more smooth, but still the same. The same guides, or +their prototypes, were sitting on the same wall drumming their heels. The +same artist was hard at work on a sketch of the Matterhorn in a field hard +by. The same party just returning from the Grner Grat. The same man +looking out with sun-scorched face from the salon window and the same +click from the self-willed billiard balls on the uncertain table below. +Ay, and the same unmistakable heartfelt greetings and handshakings at the +door of the Monte Rosa. Churlish indeed should we have been if we had +sighed to think that we had met our warmest welcome at an inn. + + + + + + CHAPTER II. + + + THE ROTHHORN (MOMING) FROM ZERMATT + + + The Alpine dramatis person--Mountaineering fact and romance--The + thirst for novelty and its symptoms--The first ascent of the + Moming--Preliminaries are observed--Rock _v._ snow mountains--The + amateur and the guide on rocks and on snow--The programme is made + out--Franz Andermatten--Falling stones in the gully--We smooth away + the difficulties--The psychological effects of reaching mountain + summits--A rock bombardment and a narrow escape--The youthful + tourist and his baggage--Hotel trials--We are interviewed--The + gushers. + + +The writer of an Alpine narrative labours under more disadvantages than +most literary folk--if authors generally will permit the association, and +allow that those who rush into print with their Alpine experiences have +the smallest claim to be dignified with such a title. One drawback is that +their accounts necessarily suffer from a paucity of characters. A five-act +tragedy supported, to use a theatrical expression, by two walking +gentlemen, one heavy lead and a low comedy "super," might possibly pall +upon an audience, but in Alpine literature, if I may be permitted to push +the metaphor a little further, not only is this the case but the unhappy +reader finds the characters like "barn stormers" playing now comedy, now +tragedy, and sometimes, it may possibly be added, dramas of romance. + +(M15) + +Again, in all matters absolutely relating to mountaineering in the Alps, +the narrator feels bound to stick to matters of fact. The drama of romance +must be excluded from his rpertoire, or, at any rate, very cautiously +handled. I knew a man once, who on a single occasion went a-fishing in +Norway and caught a salmon. Naturally he was proud of the achievement, and +when in the company of brother sportsmen, would hold up his head, assume a +knowing air, and take part in the conversation, such conversation +relating, of course, to the size of the various fish those present had +caught. Such unswerving and prosaic veracity did my friend possess, that, +though sorely tempted as he must have been on many occasions, for ten +years he never added a single ounce to the weight of his fish. A writer, +an Alpine scribbler at any rate, is perhaps justified if he introduces +incidents into an account of an expedition which may not have happened on +that particular occasion, but which did happen on some other; and surely +he may, without impropriety, romance a little on such part of his work as +is not strictly geographical; for example, he may describe a chalet as +being dirty, when according to the peasant's standard of cleanliness it +would have been considered spotless, or describe a view as magnificent, +when as a matter of fact he paid no attention to it, but he would be +acting most culpably if he asserted that he got within fifty feet of the +summit, well knowing that he was not fifty feet from the base of the peak, +or if he stated that rocks were impossible, or an ice-fall impracticable, +when the sole reason for his failure consisted in his being possessed with +a strong desire to go back home. Of course a writer can only give his own +impressions, and these are much tempered by increased experience and the +lapse of time, but in taking up old accounts of Alpine work one not +unfrequently finds a good deal of description that requires toning down. +In these sketches I have striven honestly to render all that relates +intimately to the actual mountains as accurate as possible, and would +sooner be considered a dull than an unreliable historian. + +It is no easy matter to reproduce almost on the spot an account of a climb +with absolute accuracy, however strong the desire may be to do so. +Besides, a climber does not pursue his pastime with a note book +perpetually open before him. If he does, his mountaineering is more of a +business than he is usually willing to admit. The guide often, the amateur +commonly, fails to recognise exactly from a distance a line of ascent or +descent on rocks, though but just completed. Still more difficult is it to +work out the precise details of a particular route on a map or photograph. +The microscopist knows that the higher powers of his instrument give him +no additional insight into the structure of certain objects, but rather +mislead. Even so may my readers be asked to employ but gymnoscopic +criticism of these sketches. + +(M16) + +In September 1872 our party reached Zermatt from Chamouni by the +"high-level" route, a series of walks which no amount of familiarity will +ever deprive of their charm, and concerning which more will be found +elsewhere in this work. All Alpine climbers were then burning as fiercely +as they ever did to achieve something new. They had just begun to realise +that the stock of new peaks and passes was not inexhaustible, and that the +supply was wholly inadequate to meet the demand. This feeling showed +itself in various ways. Climbers looked upon each other with something of +suspicion and jealousy, and if any new expedition was being planned by any +one of their number the others would quickly recognise the state of +affairs. If an Alpine man were found secreted in obscure corners +conversing in a low voice with his guides and intent on a study of the +map, or if he returned evasive answers when questioned as to his plans, he +was at once set down as having, probably, a new expedition in mind. As for +the guides, they assumed at once airs of importance, as does a commencing +schoolboy newly arrayed in a tall hat, and exhibited such mystery that +their intentions were unmistakable. Their behaviour, indeed, may have been +partly due to the fact that the natural efforts of their comrades to +extract information was invariably accompanied by somewhat undue +hospitality, and their brotherly feelings were usually expressed in an +acceptably liquid form. As a rule such hospitality did not fail in its +object. Whether due to a certain natural leakiness of mind on the part of +the guides or not, I cannot say, but certainly the information always +oozed out, and the intentions of the party were invariably thoroughly well +known before the expedition actually started to achieve fresh glory. Every +one of the first-rate peaks in the Zermatt district had been ascended, +most of them over and over again, before 1872, but the Rothhorn was still +out of the pale of the Zermatt expeditions. Messrs. Leslie Stephen and F. +Craufurd Grove, who first climbed the peak, ascended it from Zinal, and +descended to the same place. It seemed to us, therefore, that if we could +prove the accessibility of the mountain from Zermatt, we should do +something more than merely climb the peak by a new route. The rocks looked +attractive, and the peak itself lay so immediately above Zermatt that it +seemed possible enough to make the ascent without sleeping out or +consuming any great amount of time. + +We went through all the necessary preliminary formalities. We assumed airs +of mystery at times; why, I know not. We inspected distant peaks through +the telescope. At other times we displayed an excess of candour, and +talked effusively about districts remote from that which we intended to +investigate. We climbed up a hill, and surveyed the face of our mountain +through a telescope, thereby wasting a day and acquiring no information +whatever. We pointed out to each other the parts of the mountain which +appeared most difficult, and displayed marvellous differences of opinion +on the subject, owing, as it is usually the case, to the circumstance that +we were commonly, in all probability, talking at the same time about +totally distinct parts of the peak. With the telescope I succeeded in +discovering to my own entire satisfaction a perfectly impracticable route +to the summit. Finally, in order that no single precaution might be +omitted to ensure success, we sent up the guides to reconnoitre--a most +useless proceeding. We had new nails put in our boots, ordered provisions, +uncoiled our rope and coiled it up again quite unnecessarily, gave +directions that we should be called at an unhallowed hour in the morning, +and went to bed under the impression that we should not be object in the +least to turn out at the time arranged. + +(M17) + +It is on the rock mountains of Switzerland that the acme of enjoyment is +to be found. Not that I wish to disparage the snow-peaks; but if a +comparison be instituted it is to most climbers, at any rate in their +youthful days, infinitely in favour of the rock. Of course it may be +argued that there are comparatively few mountains where the two are not +combined. But a mountaineer classifies peaks roughly as rock or snow, +according to the chief obstacles that each presents. A climber may +encounter serious difficulties in the way of bergschrunds, steep couloirs, +soft snow, and so forth; but if on the same expedition he meets with rocks +which compel him to put forth greater energies and perseverance than the +snow required, he will set the expedition down as a difficult rock climb, +simply, of course, because the idea of difficulty which is most vividly +impressed on his mind is in connection with that portion of his climb, and +_vice vers_. An undeniable drawback to the snow peaks consists in their +monotony. The long series of steps that have to be cut at times, or the +dreary wading for hours through soft or powdery snow, are not always +forgotten in the pleasure of overcoming the difficulties of a crevasse, +reaching the summit of a peak, or the excitement of a good glissade. It is +the diversity of obstacles that meet the rock climber, the uncertainty as +to what may turn up next, the doubt as to the possibility of finding the +friendly crack or the apposite ledge, that constitute some of the main +charms. Every step is different, every muscle is called into play as the +climber is now flattened against a rough slab, now abnormally stretched +from one hold to another, or folded up like the conventional pictures of +the ibex, and every step can be recalled afterwards with pleasure and +amusement as the mountain is climbed over again in imagination. + +(M18) + +But there is more than this; on rocks the amateur is much less dependent +on his guides and has much more opportunity of exercising his own powers. +It must be admitted that on rocks some amateurs are occasionally wholly +dependent not on, but from their guides, and take no more active share in +locomotion than does a bale of goods in its transit from a ship's hold to +a warehouse. Too often the amateurs who will not take the trouble to learn +something of the science and art of mountaineering are but an impediment, +an extra burden, as has been often said, to the guides. The guides have to +hack out huge steps for their benefit. The amateurs wholly trust to them +for steering clear of avalanches, rotten snow bridges, and the like. The +amateur's share in a snow ascent usually consists, in fact, either in +counselling retreat, insisting on progress, indicating impossible lines of +ascent, or in the highly intellectual and arithmetical exercise of +counting the number of steps hewn out to ensure his locomotion in the +proper direction. + +Place the unpaid climber, on the other hand, on rocks. Here the +probability is that a slip will entail no unpleasant consequences to +anyone but the slipper. The power of sustaining a sudden strain is so +enormously increased when the hands have a firm grip that the amateur can, +if he please, sprawl and scramble unaided over difficult places with +satisfaction to himself and usually without risk to anyone else; that is, +as soon as he has fully persuaded the guides (no easy task, I admit) that +the process of pulling vehemently at the rope, possibly encircling his +waist in a slip knot, is as detrimental to his equilibrium as it is to his +digestion. Guides, however, as has been hinted, do not acknowledge this +fact in animal mechanics, and their employers frequently experience as an +acute torture that compressing process which, more deliberately applied, +is not regarded by some as hurtful, but rather as a necessary +accompaniment of fashionable attire. When the amateur has succeeded in +overcoming the natural instinct of the guides to pull when there is no +occasion to do so, he becomes a unit in the party, a burden of course, and +a hindrance to some guides, but nothing to what he was on the snow. + +Sentiments similar to the above have not unfrequently been set forth in +print: they seldom, if ever, actuate the minds of mountaineers when +actually engaged in their pastime or when describing their exploits to +less skilled persons. + +There is great satisfaction, too, in translating one's self over a given +difficult rock passage without other assistance than that provided by +nature herself, and without surreptitious aid from one's neighbour in the +shape of steps. Then again, snow mountains are as inconsistent as cheap +aneroids. One day each step costs much labour and toil, and almost the +next perhaps the peak will allow itself to be conquered in one-tenth of +the time. Not that the writer seeks to argue that there is no pleasure to +be derived from snow mountains. It is to climbing _per se_ that these +remarks apply. After all, everyone has his own opinion; but he who has not +tasted the pleasures of a really difficult and successful rock +climb--especially if it be a new one--knows not what the Alps can really do +for his amusement. + +(M19) + +An expedition of suitable magnitude and difficulty was suggested by the +guides, viz. an ascent of the Rothhorn (or Moming) from the Zermatt side. +Mr. Passingham of Cambridge was at the time staying at the Monte Rosa +Hotel, and it was soon arranged that we should combine our forces. The +guides, on being asked their opinion as to the projected climb, reported +diplomatically that, given fine weather, the ascent would be difficult but +possible. This is the answer that the guides generally do give. We decided +to attempt the whole excursion in a single day, considering that a short +rest in the comparatively luxurious beds provided by M. Seiler was +preferable on the whole to more prolonged repose in a shepherd's hut; for +the so-called repose means usually a night of misery, and the misery under +these conditions is apt to make a man literally acquainted with strange +bed-fellows. At 2 in the morning we sought for the guides' room, to +superintend the packing of our provisions. It was not easy to find, but at +last we discovered a dingy little subterranean vault with one small window +tightly jammed up and covered with dust. Of this den there were two +occupants. One was employed silently in eating large blocks of a curious +boiled mess out of a pipkin. The other was smoking a very complicated +pipe, and sitting bolt upright on a bench with half a bottle of _vin +ordinaire_ before him. Why he was carousing thus in the small hours was +not evident. From these signs we judged correctly that the apartment was +devoted to the guides as a dining, smoking, club and recreation room. + +Our staff was already in attendance, and it struck both of us that the +success of the expedition was a foregone conclusion if it depended on the +excellence of our guides--Alexander Burgener, the embodiment of strength, +endurance, and pluck; Ferdinand Imseng, of activity and perseverance, +alone would have sufficed, but we had in addition a tough, weather-beaten, +cheery companion (for he was always a companion as well as a guide), Franz +Andermatten, ever sagacious, ever helpful and ever determined. It would be +hard to find a successor adequately to fill our old friend's place. It is +impossible to efface his memory from my mind, nor can I ever forget how on +that day he showed all his best qualities and contributed mainly to our +success.(1) The prologue is spoken; let us raise the curtain on the +comedy. + +(M20) + +The guides had already made their usual preparations for packing up--that +is to say, they had constructed a multiplicity of little paper parcels and +spread them about the room. As to the contents of these little parcels, +they were of course uncertain, and all had to be undone to make sure that +nothing had been omitted. A good deal of time was thus lost, and nothing +much was gained, except that we corrected the error of packing up a +handful of loose lucifers and two tallow dips with the butter and honey in +a glass tumbler. Then the parcels were stowed away in the knapsacks, the +straps of course all rearranged and ultimately replaced by odds and ends +of string. Eventually, at 3 A.M., we started, leaving the two occupants of +the guides' room still engaged in the same manner as when they first came +under observation, and walked up the narrow valley running due north of +Zermatt and leading towards the Trift Joch and the base of the mountain +for which we were making. Having journeyed for about half an hour, it was +discovered that the telescope had been left behind. Franz instantly +started off to get it; not because it was considered particularly +necessary, but chiefly on the ground that it is not orthodox to go on a +new expedition without a telescope. We stumbled up the narrow winding +path, and close below the moraine called our first halt and waited for +Franz's return. I selected a cool rock on which to complete the slumber +which had been commenced in bed and continued on a tilted chair in the +guides' room. After waiting an hour we decided to proceed, as no answer +was returned to our frequent shouts. Presently, however, a distant yell +attracted our attention, and we beheld, to our astonishment, the cheery +face of Franz looking down on us from the top of the moraine. Stimulated +by this apparition, we pushed on with great vigour, clambered up the +moraine, whose extreme want of cohesion necessitated a treadmill style of +progression, and having reached the top passed along it to the snow. Here +we bore first to the right, and then, working round, made straight for a +sharp-topped buttress which juts out at a right angle from the main mass +of the mountain. Arrived at a patch of rocks near the commencement of the +arte, we disencumbered ourselves of superfluous baggage; that is to say, +after the traditional manner of mountaineers, we discarded about +three-fourths of the impedimenta we had so laboriously dragged up to that +point, and of which at no subsequent period of the expedition did we make +the slightest use. Next, we prepared for such rock difficulties as might +present themselves, by buttoning up our coats as tight as was convenient, +and decorated our heads respectively with woollen extinguishers like unto +the covers placed by old maids over cherished teapots. + +It is a grand moment that, when the difficulty of an expedition opens out, +when you grasp the axe firmly, settle in to the rope, and brace up the +muscles for the effort of the hour: a moment probably the most pleasurable +of the whole expedition, when the peak towers clear and bright above, when +the climber realises that he is on the point of deciding whether he shall +achieve or fail in achieving a long wished for success, or what it may be +perhaps allowable to call a cutting-out expedition (for even mountain +climbers are prone to small jealousies). The excitement on nearing the +actual summit often rather fades away than increases, and the climber +lounges up the last few steps to the top with the same sort of nonchalance +that a guest invited to drink displays in approaching the bar. + +(M21) + +Dividing into two parties, we passed rapidly along the snow ridge which +abuts against the east face of the mountain. The cliffs of the Rothhorn +seem almost to overhang on this face, and were from our point of view +magnificent. On the right, too, the precipice is a sheer one, to employ a +not uncommon epithet. Without much difficulty we clambered up the first +part of the face of the mountain, taking a zigzag course towards the large +gully which is distinctly visible from the other side of the valley, and +which terminates above in a deep jagged notch in the ridge not far below +the summit. Gradually the climbing became more difficult, and it was found +necessary to cross the gully backwards and forwards on several occasions. +In so crossing we were exposed to some risk from falling stones; that is +to say, some chips and bits of rock on a few occasions went flying by +without any very apparent reason. In those days mountaineers were in the +habit of considering these projectiles as a possible source of risk. A +later generation would pass them by as easily as the stones passed by us, +and it is not now the fashion to consider such a situation as we were in +at all dangerous. It is difficult to see the reason why. Perhaps people's +heads are harder now than they were then. For the greater part of the time +we kept to the left or south side of the gully, and reaching the notch +looked right down upon the commencement of the Glacier du Durand, a fine +expanse of snowfield, singularly wild-looking and much crevassed. Turning +to the right, we ascended a short distance along the ridge, and then a +halt was called. The guides now proceeded to arrange a length of some +hundred feet of rope on the rocks above to assist in our return. The +process sorely tried our patience, and we were right glad when the signal +was given to go on again. We had now to leave the arte, to descend a +little, and so pass on to the west face of the mountain, and by this face +to ascend and gradually work back to the ridge. No doubt during this part +of the climb we made much the same mistake in judgment as had previously +been made on a memorable ascent of the Matterhorn, and crossed far more on +to the face than was really necessary or advisable. The mountain has since +the time when these lines were originally written passed through the +regular stages of gradual depreciation, and it is more difficult now to +realise that we considered it at the time very difficult. Probably, +however, subsequent travellers have improved considerably on the details +of the route we actually followed; at any rate the ascent is now +considered quite proper for a novice to attempt, at any rate by the novice +himself. We worked ourselves slowly along in the teeth of a biting cold +wind, and without finding the fixed rope necessary to assist our progress. +Reaching the ridge again, the way became distinctly easier, and we felt +now that the peak was at our mercy. Presently, however, we came to a huge +inverted pyramid of rock that tried rather successfully to look like the +summit, and we had some little difficulty in surmounting it. By dint of +strange acrobatic feats and considerable exertion we hoisted our leading +guide on to the top. It was fortunate for him perhaps that the seams of +his garments were not machine-sewn, or he would certainly have rent his +raiment. Finding, however, that the only alternative that offered when he +got to the top of the rock was to get down again on the other side, the +rest of us concluded that on the whole we should prefer to walk round. The +last few yards were perfectly easy, and at 1.30 P.M. we stood on the +summit enjoying a most magnificent view in every direction. + +(M22) + +It is a somewhat curious phenomenon, but one frequently remarked, that the +mountaineer's characteristics seem abruptly to change when he reaches the +summit of a peak. The impressionable, excitable person instantly becomes +preternaturally calm and prosaic, while those of lymphatic temperament +have not unfrequently been observed to develop suddenly rather explosive +qualities, and to yell or wave their hats without any very apparent +incitement thereto. Individuals whose detractors hold to be gifted with +poetic attributes have been heard to utter quite commonplace remarks, and +I have even known a phlegmatic companion so far forget himself, under +these modifying circumstances, as to make an excessively bad pun and laugh +very heartily at it himself, quite an unusual occurrence in a wag. Others +find relief for their feelings by punching their companions violently in +the back, or resorting to such horse-play as the area of the summit allows +scope for. Directly, however, the descent commences the climber resumes +his normal nature. The fact is, that in most cases, perhaps, the chief +pleasure of the expedition does not come at the moment when the climber +realises that he is about to undo, as it were, all his work of the day. +There is no real climax of an expedition, and, as has been said, it is +quite artificial to suppose that the enjoyment must culminate on reaching +the top. But still it is considered proper to testify to some unusual +emotional feelings. Some of the most enjoyable climbs that the mountaineer +can recall in after life, are not those in which he has reached any +particular point. Guides consider it becoming to evince in a somewhat +forced way the liveliness of their delight on completing an ascent. But +such joy as they exhibit is usually about as genuine and heartfelt as an +organ-grinder's grin, or a Lord Mayor's smile on receiving a guest whom he +does not know and who has merely come to feed at his expense. + +The wind was too cold to permit of a very long stay on the summit, and +having added a proper number of stones to the cairn, a ceremony as +indispensable as the cutting of a notch in the mainmast when the +traditional fisherman changes his shirt, we descended rapidly to the point +where it was necessary to quit the ridge. Down the first portion of the +steep rock slope we passed with great caution, some of the blocks of stone +being treacherously loose, or only lightly frozen to the face. + +(M23) + +We had arrived at the most difficult part of the whole climb, and at a +rock passage which at that time we considered was the nastiest we had ever +encountered. The smooth, almost unbroken face of the slope scarcely +afforded any foot-hold, and our security almost entirely depended on the +rope we had laid down in our ascent. Had not the rope been in position we +should have varied our route, and no doubt found a line of descent over +this part much easier than the one we actually made for, even without any +help from the fixed cord. Imseng was far below, working his way back to +the arte, while the rest of the party were holding on or moving but +slowly with faces turned to the mountain. Suddenly I heard a shout from +above; those below glanced up at once: a large flat slab of rock, that had +afforded us good hold in ascending, but proved now to have been only +frozen in to a shallow basin of ice, had been dislodged by the slightest +touch from one of the party above, and was sliding down straight at us. It +seemed an age, though the stone could not have had to fall more than ten +feet or so, before it reached us. Just above me it turned its course +slightly; Franz, who was just below, more in its direct line of descent, +attempted to stop the mass, but it ground his hands against the rock and +swept by straight at Imseng. A yell from us hardly awoke him to the +danger: the slab slid on faster and faster, but just as we expected to see +our guide swept away, the rock gave a bound for the first time, and as, +with a startled expression, he flung himself against the rock face, it +leapt up and, flying by within a few inches of his head, thundered down +below. A moment or two of silence followed, and then a modified cheer from +Imseng, as subdued as that of a "super" welcoming a theatrical king, +announced his safety, and he looked up at us with a serious expression on +his face. Franz's escape had been a remarkably lucky one, but his hands +were badly cut about and bruised. In fact it was a near thing for all of +us, and the mere recollection will still call up that odd sort of thrill a +man experiences on suddenly recollecting at 11 P.M. that he ought to have +dined out that evening with some very particular people. Had not the rock +turned its course just before it reached Franz, and bounded from the face +of the mountain over Imseng's head, one or more of the party must +unquestionably have been swept away. The place was rather an exceptional +one, and the rock glided a remarkably long distance without a bound, but +still the incident may serve to show that falling stones are not a wholly +imaginary danger. + +(M24) + +It would have been difficult, with the elementary knowledge of +mountaineering that I now see we possessed at that day, to have descended +without using the attached rope, and quite out of the question for anyone +possessed of a proper respect for his suit of dittos to have done so. In +this latter respect we had to exercise economical caution: for we had no +very great store at the hotel or many changes of raiment. It is generally +possible to gauge pretty accurately an Alpine traveller's experience by +the amount of luggage he takes on a tour. Some tourists, following the +advice given in the "Practical Guide Book" (a disconnected work written in +the style of Mr. Jingle's conversation, but much in favour at one time), +were in the habit of travelling with one suit of clothes and a portable +bath. The latter, though they took it with them, they seldom took more +than once; at the best it was of comparatively little use as an article of +apparel, but imparted an aromatic flavour to anything packed up in its +immediate neighbourhood. In those youthful days we considered, forsooth, +that a little leathern wallet adequately replaced a portmanteau, and in +transporting luggage did not always act on the sound commercial maxim that +you should never do anything for yourself which a paid person might do +equally well for you; consequently a heavy rain shower reduced the +traveller to inactivity, and an oversight on the part of the laundress +entailed consequences that it is not permissible to mention. + +Meanwhile our turn had come to move on. A zigzagging crack, which was too +narrow to admit of anything but a most uncomfortable position, afforded +the only hand and foot hold on which we could rely. Our gloveless hands, +clutching at the rope, cooled down slowly to an unpleasant temperature +that rendered it doubtful whether they were attached to the arms or not, +and we began to wish we had gone down the Zinal side of the mountain. +However, Imseng wormed himself along the rocks, to which he adhered with +the tenacity of a lizard, and finally reached the end of our rope and a +region of comparative safety. We followed his example slowly, and, having +joined him, seated ourselves on some rocks inappropriately designed for +repose, and finished off the food we had with us. Climbing carefully down +the east face of the mountain, we reached the snow ridge and passed +rapidly along it, our spirits rising exuberantly as we looked back on the +vanquished peak. As usually happens, the guides had entirely forgotten the +place where they had concealed our baggage on the ascent, and in fact had +hidden it so carefully that they had some difficulty in finding it when +they came to the spot. It is curious to note how often the instinct of +guides, so much talked about, is at fault in this matter, and how +systematically they are in the habit of carrying up on the mountains +superfluous articles, hiding them with entirely unnecessary precautions, +and subsequently forgetting the whole transaction. + +(M25) + +While they searched about for their cache we enjoyed the use of tobacco, +if such an expression be allowable in the case of some curious stuff +purchased in the valley. Still, as the packet in which it was contained +was labelled "Tabak," we considered it to be such. Being indulgently +disposed, and not being profound botanists, poetic license alone enabled +us to imagine that + + "We soared above + Dull earth, in those ambrosial clouds like Jove, + And from our own empyrean height + Looked down upon Zermatt with calm delight." + +(M26) + +It may have been so; it gave me a sore throat. Descending rapidly, we +reached the Monte Rosa Hotel at 7 P.M., in an exultant frame of mind, a +ragged condition of attire, and a preposterous state of hunger. The whole +time occupied in the climb was sixteen hours. Of this an hour was wasted +while we were waiting for the telescope, and three-quarters of an hour was +spent in arranging the rope, by the aid of which we descended. Probably in +actual climbing and walking we employed rather under thirteen hours; but +the snow was in excellent order, and we descended on the whole very +rapidly. Our trials were not over for the day, when we reached the hotel. +Two arch young things had prepared an ambuscade and surprised us +successfully at the door of the hotel. Sweetly did they gush. "Oh! where +had we been?" We said we had been up in the mountains, indicating the +general line of locality with retrospective thumb. "Oh! wasn't it +fearfully dangerous? Weren't we all tied tightly together?" (as if, on the +principle of union being strength, we had been fastened up and bound like +a bundle of quill pens). "Oh! hadn't we done something very wonderful?" +The situation was becoming irritating. "Oh! didn't we have to drag +ourselves up precipices by the chamois horns on the tops of our sticks?" +"No indeed----" "Oh! really, now, that guide there" (a driver with +imperfectly buttoned garments who was sitting on the wall with a vacuous +look) "told us you were _such_ wonderful climbers." It was becoming +exasperating. "And oh! we wanted to ask you so much, for you know all +about it. _Do_ you think we could walk over the Thodule? Papa" (great +heavens! he must be a nonagenarian) "thinks we should be so foolish to +try. Could you persuade him?" "Well, really----" "Wouldn't the precipices +make us dreadfully giddy?" "No, no more than you are now." "Oh! thank you +so much. And you really won't tell us what awful ascent you have been +making?" It was maddening. "After dinner perhaps?" "Oh! thank you. Oh! +Sustie" (this to each other; they both spoke together: probably the names +were Susie and Tottie), "won't that be delightful?" By dexterous +manoeuvring we escaped these gushing Circes during the evening. Happening +to pass later on by the open door of the little _salon_, the following +remark was overheard: "My dear, the conceit of these climbing objects is +quite dreadful. They do nothing but flourish their nasty sticks and ropes +about: they want the whole place to themselves" (we had been sitting on +wooden chairs in the middle of the high street, near an unsavoury heap of +refuse), "and they talk, talk, talk, my dear, all day and all night about +what they have been doing in the mountains and of their nonsensical +climbs. And what frights they look. I think they are perfectly horrid." +Can the voice have been that of the gusher? + + + + + + CHAPTER III. + + + EARLY ATTEMPTS ON THE AIGUILLE DU DRU + + + The Alps and the early mountaineers--The last peaks to + surrender--The Aiguille du Dru--Messrs. Kennedy and Pendlebury's + attempt on the peak--One-day expeditions in the Alps and thoughts + on huts and sleeping out--The Chamouni guide system--A word on + guides, past and present--The somnolent landlord and his + peculiarities--Some of the party see a chamois--Doubts as to the + peak and the way--The duplicity of the Aiguille deceives + us--Telescopic observations--An ill-arranged glacier--Franz and his + mighty axe--A start on the rocks in the wrong direction--Progress + reported--An adjournment--The rocks of the lower peak of the + Aiguille du Dru--Our first failure--The expedition resumed--A new + line of ascent--We reach the sticking point--Beaten back--The results + gained by the two days' climbing. + + +(M27) + +Accounts of failures on the mountains in books of Alpine adventure are as +much out of place, according to some critics, as a new hat in a crowded +church. Humanly speaking, the possession of this head-gear under such +circumstances renders it impossible to divert the thoughts wholly from +worldly affairs. This, however, by the way. Now the pioneers of the Alps, +the Stephenses, the Willses, the Moores, the Morsheads, and many others, +had used up all new material with alarming rapidity, I might say voracity, +before the climbing epoch to which the present sketches relate. There is +an old story of a man who arrived running in a breathless condition on a +railway platform just in time to see the train disappearing. "You didn't +run fast enough, sir," remarked the porter to him. "You idiot!" was the +answer, "I ran plenty fast enough, but I didn't begin running soon +enough." Even so was it with the climbers of our generation. They climbed +with all possible diligence, but they began their climbing too late. +Novelty, that is the desire for achieving new expeditions, was still +considered of paramount importance, but unfortunately there was very +little new material left. It is difficult to realise adequately now the +real veneration entertained for an untrodden peak. A certain amount of +familiarity seemed indispensable before a new ascent was even seriously +contemplated. It had occurred to certain bold minds that the aiguilles +around Chamouni might not be quite as bad as they looked. In 1873 the +chief of the still unconquered peaks of the Mont Blanc district were the +Aiguille des Charmoz, the Aiguille Blaitire, the Aiguille du Gant, the +Aiguille Peuteret, the Aiguille du Dru, and a few other minor points. All +of these have since been captured, some of them bound in chains. Opinions +differed considerably as to their accessibility. Some hopeful spirits +thought that by constantly "pegging away" they might be scaled; others +thought that the only feasible plan would be indeed to peg away, but were +of opinion that the pegs should be of iron and driven into the rock. Such +views naturally lead to discussions, sometimes rather heated, as to +whether mountaineering morality might fitly tolerate such aids to the +climber. Of all the peaks mentioned above, the Aiguille du Dru and the +Aiguille du Gant were considered as the most hopeful by the leading +guides, though the older members of that body held out little prospect of +success. It is a rather curious fact that the majority of the leading +guides who gave their opinions to us in the matter thought that the +Aiguille du Gant was the more promising peak to attack. Subsequent +experience has proved that they were greatly in error in this judgment. +The Aiguille du Gant has indeed been ascended, but much more aid than is +comprised in the ordinary mountaineer's equipment was found necessary. In +fact, the stronghold was not carried by direct assault, but by sapping and +mining. There is a certain rock needle in Norway which, I am told, was +once, and once only, ascended by a party on surveying operations bent. No +other means could be found, so a wooden structure was built up around the +peak, such as may be seen investing a dilapidated church steeple; and the +mountain, like the Royal Martyr of history, yielded up its crowning point +at the scaffold. We did not like the prospect of employing any such +architectural means to gain our end and the summit, and, from no very +clearly defined reasons, turned our attention chiefly to the Aiguille du +Dru. Perhaps the prominent appearance of this Aiguille, and the fact that +its outline was so familiar from the Montanvert, gradually imbued us with +a certain sense of familiarity, which ultimately developed into a notion +that if not actually accessible it might at least be worth trying. It +seemed too prominent to be impossible; from its height--12,517 feet +only--the mountain would doubtless not attract much attention, were it not +so advantageously placed. Thousands of tourists had gazed on its +symmetrical form: it had been photographed, stared at through binoculars, +portrayed in little distorted pictures on useless work-boxes, trays and +other toy-shop gimcracks, more often than any other mountain of the chain, +Mont Blanc excepted. Like an undersized volunteer officer, it no doubt +made the most of its height. But in truth the Aiguille du Dru is a +magnificent mountain form, with its vast dark precipices on the north +face, with its long lines of cliff, broken and jagged and sparsely +wrinkled with gullies free from even a patch or trace of snow. Point after +point, and pinnacle after pinnacle catch the gaze as we follow the edge of +the north-west "Kamm," until the eye rests at last on the singularly +graceful isosceles triangle of rock which forms the peak. It is spoken of +lightly as merely a tooth of rock jutting up from the ridge which +culminates in the Aiguille Verte, but when viewed from the Glacier de la +Charpoua it is obviously a separate mountain; at any rate it became such +when the highest point of the ridge, the Aiguille Verte, had been climbed +by somebody else. The cleft in the ridge on the right side of the main +mass of the Aiguille du Dru is a very deep one as seen from the glacier, +and the sharp needle of rock which is next in the chain is a long way from +the Aiguille du Dru itself. North and south the precipices run sheer down +to the glaciers beneath. The mountain has then four distinct sides, three +of them running down to great depths. Thus, even in the prehistoric days +of Alpine climbing, it had some claim to individuality and might fairly be +considered as something more than, as it were, one unimportant pinnacle on +the roof of some huge cathedral. Perhaps, however, repeated failures to +ascend the mountain begot undue veneration and caused an aspiring climber +to look with a prejudiced eye on its dimensions. + +(M28) + +So far as I know, the mountain had never been assailed till 1873, when +Messrs. Pendlebury and Kennedy made an attempt. Mr. R. Pendlebury has +kindly furnished me with notes of the climb, which I may be allowed to +reproduce nearly in his own words:--Two parties started simultaneously for +the expedition. One was composed of Messrs. Kennedy and Marshall, with the +guides Johann Fischer and Ulric Almer of Grindelwald; the other party +consisted of the Rev. C. Taylor, Messrs. W. M. and R. Pendlebury, with the +guides Hans Baumann, Peter Baumann, and Edouard Cupelin. The +first-mentioned party slept at the Montanvert, while the others enjoyed +themselves in a bivouac high up on the side of the Glacier de la Charpoua +between the Aiguille du Dru and the Aiguille Moine. This Glacier de la +Charpoua, it may be mentioned, is sometimes called the Glacier du Chapeau. + +(M29) + +The bivouac appears to have been so comfortable that Mr. Pendlebury and +his friends did not take advantage of their start. The Montanvert +detachment, who found no such inducement to stay one moment longer than +was absolutely necessary(2) in their costly quarters, caught them up the +next morning, and the whole party started together. Mr. Kennedy's guides +kept to the left of the Glacier de la Charpoua, which looks more broken up +than the right-hand side, but apparently proved better going. This, +however, it should be observed, was in 1873, and these hanging glaciers +alter marvellously in detail from year to year, though always preserving +from a distance the same general features. On the same principle, at the +proper distance, a mother may be mistaken for her daughter, especially by +a judicious person. But on drawing near, however discreet the observer may +be, he is yet conscious of little furrows, diminutive wrinkles, and +perhaps of a general shrinkage not to be found in the more recent +specimen. Speaking very generally, I should say that these glaciers are, +on the whole, easier to traverse than they used to be: at any rate my own +personal observation of this particular little glacier extends over a +period of some years, and the intricacies--it is hardly proper to call them +difficulties--were distinctly less towards the end of the time than they +were at the beginning. Of course a different interpretation might be put +upon such an opinion: with the evolution of mountaineering skill the +complexity of these crumpled up snow-fields may seem to have disentangled, +but I am assured that in this particular case it was not so. + +(M30) + +This digression must be pardoned. It arose naturally from the circumstance +that the route Mr. Kennedy adopted would have proved, at any rate in later +years, a digression from the best way. Mr. Pendlebury's party went +straight up, keeping, that is, to the right-hand side of the glacier. +Towards the upper part the snow slopes became steeper, and soon some +step-cutting was required. The object in view was to reach the lowest +point in the ridge between the Aiguille du Dru and the Aiguille Verte. It +was thought that, by turning to the left from the col, it might be +possible to reach the summit by the eastern arte. The col itself from +below seemed easily attainable by means of a narrow zigzagging gully, +interrupted here and there, that runs down from the summit of the ridge. +Ascending by the rocks on the left of the gully the party made for some +little way good progress, but then a sudden change came over the scene. +After a consultation, it was proposed that the guides Hans Baumann, Peter +Baumann, and Fischer should go on a little by themselves and make for the +ridge, which they estimated lay about half an hour above them. They were +then to examine the rocks above and to bring back a report. The rest of +the party remained where they were, and disported themselves as +comfortably as circumstances would permit. Hour after hour, however, +passed away, and the three guides seemed to make but little progress. They +returned at last with the melancholy tidings that they had climbed nearly +up to the ridge and had found the rocks very difficult and dangerous. (It +should be noted that the line of attack chosen on this occasion--the first +serious attempt on the peak--was devised by Hans Baumann, and it says much +for his sagacity that this very route proved years afterwards to be the +right one.) Questioned as to the advisability of proceeding upwards, the +guides employed their favourite figure of speech and remarked that not for +millions of francs would they consent to try again. Hans Baumann asserted +that he had never climbed more difficult rocks. This opinion, as Mr. +Pendlebury suggested at the time, was probably owing to the fact that the +cliffs above were covered with snow and glazed with ice, and this +condition of the mountain face made each step precarious. The amateurs of +the party were of opinion that the ridge would prove attainable later in +the season or in exceptionally fine weather. As to the possibility of +climbing the rocks above--that is to say, the actual peak--none of the party +were able to come to any very positive conclusion. At a rough guess it was +estimated that the party halted between two and three hundred feet below +the ridge. On the presentation of the guides report the whole caravan +turned back and reached Chamouni safely, but not entirely without +incident, for the monotony of the descent and Mr. Taylor's head were +broken by the fall of a big stone. This little accident, Mr. Pendlebury +remarked with disinterested cheerfulness, was but a trifle. I have not +been able to ascertain Mr. Taylor's views on the subject. + +When our party first essayed the ascent we knew none of the above +particulars, save only that some mountaineers had endeavoured to reach the +ridge but had failed to ascend to any great height. Of the actual cause of +their ill success, and whether it were owing to the unpropitious elements +or to the actual difficulties encountered, we were unaware. + +(M31) + +At the time of which I am writing, a somewhat novel mode of ascending +mountains was coming into vogue, which consisted in waiting for a suitable +day at headquarters, starting at unheard-of hours, and completing the +expedition in one day--that is, within twenty-four hours. It was argued in +support of this plan, that it was economical and that bivouacking was but +a laborious and expensive method of obtaining discomfort. There are, said +the advocates of the method, but few mountains in the Alps which cannot be +ascended with much greater comfort in one day than in two. The day's climb +is much more enjoyable when it is possible to start from sleeping quarters +in which it is possible to sleep. The argument that repose in hotel beds, +though undoubtedly more luxurious, was of comparatively little use if +there were no time to enjoy it, was held to be little to the purpose. Some +enthusiasts were wont to state that passing a night in a chalet, or those +magnified sentry boxes called cabanes, constituted half the enjoyment on +the expedition. This is a little strong--like the flavour of the +cabanes--and if it were actually so the whole pleasure would be but small. +The camper out arises in the morning from his delicious couch of soft +new-mown hay in a spotty and sticky condition, attended with considerable +local irritation, and feeling like a person who has recently had his hair +cut, with a pinafore but loosely tied around his neck. Porters, like +barbers, exhibit a propensity for indulging in garlic immediately before +pursuing their avocation, which is not without discomfort to their +employers. (And here I may note as a psychological fact that one action of +this permeating vegetable is to induce confidential propensities in the +consumer. The point may be deemed worthy of investigation, by personal +experiment, by botanists and students of materia medica, men who in the +interests of science are not prone to consider their personal comfort and +finer sensibilities.) Again, in unsettled weather a fine day is often +wasted by journeying up in the afternoon to some chalet, or hovel, merely +to enjoy the pleasure of returning the following morning in the rain. +There is some force too in the argument that but little actual time is +gained by the first day's performance, for it is very difficult to start +at anything like the prearranged hour for departure from a camp. An +immensity of time is always spent in lighting the morning fire, preparing +breakfast, and getting under way. On the other side, some little time is +undoubtedly saved by discarding the wholly superfluous ceremony of +washing, a process at once suggesting itself to the mind of the Briton +abroad if he beholds a basin and cold water. + +The sum of the argument would seem to be that camping out in some one +else's hut is but an unpleasant fiction; that if the climber chooses to go +to the expense, he can succeed in making himself a trifle less comfortable +in his own tent or under a rock than he would be in an hotel; and that he +is the wisest man who refrains from bivouacking when it is not really +necessary and is able to make the best of matters when it is: and +undoubtedly for many of the recognised expeditions it is essential to have +every possible minute of spare time in hand. + +(M32) + +We were naturally rather doubtful as to the successful issue of our +expedition, at any rate at the first attempt, and we therefore impressed +upon the guides the necessity of not divulging the plan. The secret, +however, proved to be so big that it was too much for two, and they +imparted consequently so much of the information as they had not adequate +storage for in their own minds to any who chose to listen. Consequently +our intentions were thoroughly well known before we started. There were in +those days, perhaps, more good guides, at any rate there were fewer bad +ones, in Chamouni than are to be found nowadays. We could not, however, +obtain the services--even if we had desired them--of any of the local +celebrities. As a matter of fact, we were both of opinion that a training +in climbing, such as is acquired among the Oberland and Valais men by +chamois hunting and constant rock work, would be most likely to have +produced the qualities which would undoubtedly be needed on the aiguilles. + +The question of the efficiency of the Chamouni guides and of the Chamouni +guide system, a question coeval with mountaineering itself, was burning +then as fiercely as it does now. The Alpine Club had striven in vain to +improve matters; they had pointed out that ability to answer a kind of +mountaineering catechism did not in itself constitute a very reliable test +of a peasant's power; they had pointed out too that the plan of electing a +"guide chef" from the general body of guides was one most open to abuse, +one sure to lead to favouritism and injustice, and one obviously ill +calculated to bring to the front any specially efficient man. But +unhappily the regulations of the body of guides were, and still are, +entangled hopelessly in the French equivalent for red tape. Jealousy and +mistrust of the German-speaking guides, whom serious mountaineers were +beginning to import in rather formidable numbers, were beginning to awaken +in the simple bosoms of the Savoyard peasants; and our proceedings were +consequently looked upon with contemptuous disfavour by those who had any +knowledge of our project. + +(M33) + +On August 18, 1873, we started. Our guides were Alexander Burgener as +leader, Franz Andermatten, the best of companions, our guide, our friend, +and sometimes our philosopher, as second string, while a taciturn porter +of large frame and small mind, who came from the Saas valley, completed +the tale. Of Burgener's exceptional talent in climbing difficult rocks we +had had already good proof, and no doubt he was, and still is, a man of +remarkable daring, endurance, and activity on rocks. I had reached then +that stage in the mountaineering art at which a man is prone to consider +the guide he knows best as, beyond all comparison, the best guide that +could possibly exist. The lapse of years renders me perhaps better able +now to form a dispassionate judgment of Burgener's capacity and skill. +Both were very great. I have seen at their work most of the leaders in +this department. Burgener never had the marvellous neatness and finish so +characteristic of Melchior Anderegg, who, when mountaineering has passed +away into the limbo of extinct sports, such as bear-baiting, croquet, and +pell-mell, will, if he gets his deserts, even by those who remember +Maguignaz, Carrel, Croz, and Almer, still be spoken of as _the_ best guide +that ever lived. Nor was Burgener gifted with the same simple unaffected +qualities which made Jakob Anderegg's loss so keenly felt, nor the +lightness and agility of Rey or Jaun; but he united well in himself +qualities of strength, carefulness, perseverance and activity, and +possessed in addition the numerous attributes of observation, experience, +and desire for improvement in his art which together make up what is +spoken of as the natural instinct of guides. These were the qualities that +made him a first-rate, indeed an exceptional, guide. _Nunc liberavi animam +meam._ There is an old saying, involving a sound doctrine, that + + When you flatter lay it on thick; + Some will come off, but a deal will stick. + +The porter proved himself a skilful and strong climber, but he was as +silent as an oyster and, like that bivalve mollusc when the freshness of +its youth has passed off, was perpetually on the gape. + +(M34) + +A hot walk--it always is hot along this part--took us up to the Montanvert. +The moonlight threw quaint, fantastic shadows along the path and made the +dewy gossamer filaments which swung from branch to branch across the track +twinkle into grey and silver; and anything more aggravating than these +spiders' threads at night it is hard to imagine. What earthly purpose +these animals think they serve by this reckless nocturnal expenditure of +bodily glue it is hard to say: possibly the lines are swung across in +order that they may practise equilibrium; possibly the threads may serve +as lines of escape and retreat after the male spinners have been a-wooing. +The atmosphere through the wood was as stuffy as a ship's saloon in a +storm, and we were right glad to reach the Montanvert at 3.30 A.M. Here, +being athirst, we clamoured for refreshment. The landlord of the +ramshackle hostelry at once appeared in full costume; indeed I observed +that during the summer it was impossible to tell from his attire whether +he had arisen immediately from bed or no. He seemed to act on the +principle of the Norwegian peasant, who apparently undresses once a year +when the winter commences, and resumes his garments when the light once +more comes back and the summer season sets in. Our friend had cultivated +to great perfection the art of half sleeping during his waking hours--that +is, during such time as he might be called upon to provide entertainment +for man and beast. Now at the Montanvert, during the tourists' season, +this period extended over the whole twenty-four hours. It was necessary, +therefore, in order that he might enjoy a proper physiological period of +rest, for him to remain in a dozing state--a sort of stival +hybernation--for the whole time, which in fact he did; or else he was by +nature a very dull person, and had actually a very restricted stock of +ideas. + +The landlord produced at once a battered teapot with a little sieve +dangling from its snout, which had been stewing on the hob, and poured out +the contained fluid into two stalked saucers of inconvenient diameter. +Stimulated by this watery extract, we entered into conversation together. +The sight of a tourist with an ice axe led by a kind of reflex process to +the landlord's unburdening his mind with his usual remarks. Like other +natives of the valley he had but two ideas of "extraordinary" expeditions. +"Monsieur is going to the Jardin?" he remarked. "No, monsieur isn't." +"Then beyond a doubt monsieur will cross the Col du Gant?" he said, +playing his trump card. "No, monsieur will not." "Pardon--where does +monsieur expect to go to?" "On the present occasion we go to try the +Aiguille du Dru." The landlord smiled in an aggravating manner. "Does +monsieur think he will get up?" "Time will show." "Ah!" The landlord, who +had a chronic cold in the head, searched for his pockethandkerchief, but +not finding it, modified the necessary sniff into one of derision, and +then demanded the usual exorbitant price for the refreshment, amounting to +about five times the value of the teapot, sieve and all. We paid, and left +him chuckling softly to himself at our insane idea, as he replaced the +teapot on the hob in readiness for the next arrival. That landlord, though +physically sleepy, was still wide awake in matters of finance. He once +charged me five francs for the loan of a secondhand collection of holes +which he termed a blanket. + +(M35) + +We got on to the glacier at the usual point and made straight across the +slippery hummocks to the grass slope encircling the base of the Aiguille +du Dru and the Glacier de la Charpoua. The glacier above gives birth to a +feeble meandering little stream which wanders fitfully down the mountain +side. At first we kept to the left, but after a while crossed the little +torrent, and bearing more to the right plodded leisurely up the steep +grass and rock slope. We had made good progress when of a sudden Franz +gave a loud whistle and then fell flat down. The other two guides +immediately followed his example and beckoned to us with excited +gesticulations to behave in a similarly foolish manner. Thereupon we too +sat down, and enquired what the purport of this performance might be. It +turned out that there was a very little chamois about half a mile off. +Knowing that it would be impossible to induce the guides to move on till +the animal had disappeared, we seized the opportunity of taking an early +breakfast. The guides meanwhile wriggled about on their stomachs, with +eyes starting out of their heads, possessed by an extraordinary desire to +miss no single movement of the object of their attention. "See, it moves," +said Franz in a whisper. "Himmel! it is feeding," said Burgener. "It must +be the same that Johann saw three weeks ago." "Ach! no, that was but a +little one" (no true chamois hunter will ever allow that a brother +sportsman can possibly have set eyes on a larger animal than himself). +"Truly it is fine." "Thunder weather! it moves its head." In their +excitement I regretted that I could not share, not being well versed in +hunting craft: my own experience of sport in the Alps being limited to +missing one marmot that was sitting on a rock licking its paws. In due +course the chamois walked away. Apparently much relieved by there being no +further necessity to continue in their former uncomfortable attitudes, the +guides sat up and fell to a warm discussion as to the size of the animal. +A chamois is to a guide as a fish to the baffled angler or the last new +baby to a monthly nurse, and is always pronounced to be beyond question +the finest that has ever been seen. To this they agreed generally, but +Franz, whose spirits had suddenly evaporated, now shook his head dismally, +with the remark that it was unlucky to see a single chamois, and that we +should have no success that day. Undaunted by his croaking, we pursued our +way to the right side of the glacier, while our guide, who had a ballad +appropriate to every occasion, sang rather gaspingly a tremulous little +funeral dirge. We worked well across to the right, in order to obtain the +best possible view of the Aiguille, and halted repeatedly while discussing +the best point at which to attack the rocks. While thus engaged in +reconnoitring close under the cliffs of the ridge running between the +Aiguille Moine and the Aiguille Verte, a considerable block of ice, +falling from the rocks above, whizzed past just in front of us and capered +gaily down the slope. Hereupon we came rather rapidly to the conclusion +that we had better proceed. Half an hour further on we reached the top of +a steep little snow slope, and a point secure from falling stones and ice. +Recognising that we must soon cross back to the rocks of the Dru, we tried +to come to a final conclusion as to the way to be chosen. As usual, +everybody pointed out different routes: even a vestry meeting could hardly +have been less unanimous. Some one now ventured to put a question that had +been troubling in reality our minds for some time past, viz. which of the +peaks that towered above us was really the Aiguille du Dru. On the left +there were two distinct points which, though close together, were +separated apparently by a deep rift, and some distance to the right of the +col which the previous party had tried to reach, a sharp tooth of rock +towered up to a considerable height. Evidently, however, from its position +this latter needle could not be visible from Chamouni or from the +Montanvert. Again, it was clear that the mass comprising the two points +close together must be visible from the valley, but which of the two was +the higher? Alexander gave as his opinion that the more distant of these +two points, that on the right, was the higher, and turned to the porter +for confirmation. That worthy nodded his head affirmatively with extreme +sagacity, evidently implying that he was of the same opinion. Franz on the +other hand thought the left-hand peak was the one that we ought to make +for, arguing that it most resembled the Dru as seen from the Montanvert, +that there was probably little difference in height between the two, that +our ascent would not be believed in unless we were to place a flag on the +point visible from Chamouni, and finally that the left-hand peak seemed to +be the easier, and would probably be found to conceal the sharper point of +the right-hand summit. Having expressed these views, he in turn looked +towards the porter to ascertain his sentiments. The porter, who was +evidently of a complaisant temperament, nodded his head very vigorously to +intimate that these arguments seemed the more powerful of the two to his +mind, and then cocked his head on one side in a knowing manner, intended +to express that he was studying the angles and that he was prepared to +find himself in the right whichever view prevailed. We did not find out +for certain till some time after that the right-hand summit, though +concealed from view by the Montanvert, is very distinctly visible from +Chamouni: excusable ignorance, as most of the Chamouni people are unaware +of it to this day. Professor Forbes, as Mr. Douglas Freshfield has kindly +pointed out to me, with his usual accuracy distinguished and also measured +the two summits, giving their heights respectively as 12,178, and 12,245 +feet.(3) Knowing little as we did then of the details of the mountain, we +followed Franz's advice and made for the left-hand peak, under the +impression that if one proved accessible the other might also, and there +really seemed no reason why we should not, if occasion demanded, ascend +both. + +(M36) + +Leading up from the glacier two distinct lines of attack presented +themselves. The right-hand ridge descends to the col very precipitously, +but still we had some idea that the rocks did not look wholly impossible. +Again, on the left of the Dru the rocks are cut away very abruptly and +form the long precipitous ridge seen from the Montanvert. This ridge was +so jagged that we could see no possible advantage in climbing to any part +of it, except just at the termination where it merges into the +south-western face of the main mountain. The choice therefore, in our +judgment, lay between storming the mountain by the face right opposite to +us or else making for the col and the right-hand ridge; but the latter was +the route that Messrs. Pendlebury and Kennedy had followed, and we could +not hope to succeed where such giants had failed. Burgener indeed wished +to try, but the rest of the party were unanimously in favour of attempting +to find a way up the face, a route that at the worst had the merit of +novelty. We thought too that if a closer acquaintance proved that the +crags were ill arranged for upward locomotion, we might be able to work +round on the face and so reach the col by a more circuitous route. With +the naked eye--especially a myopic one--the rocks appeared unpromising +enough; while viewed through the telescope the rocks looked utterly +impossible. But little faith, however, can be rested in telescopic +observations of a mountain, so far as the question of determining a route +is concerned. Amateurs, who, as a rule, understand the use of a telescope +much better than guides, have not the requisite experience to determine +the value of what they see, while but few guides see enough to form any +basis for determination. Moreover, the instrument we carried with us, +though it had an extraordinary number of sections and pulled out like the +ill-fated tradesman's trousers in a pantomime, was not a very remarkable +one in the matter of definition. Still it is always proper and orthodox to +look at a new peak through the telescope, and we were determined not to +neglect any formality on the present occasion. + +(M37) + +We were now rather more than half-way up the Glacier de la Charpoua. To +reach the most promising-looking point at which we might hope to get on +the rocks, it was necessary to travel straight across the snow at about +the level on which we stood. Now, this Glacier de la Charpoua is not +constructed on ordinary principles. Instead of the orthodox transverse +bergschrund it possesses a longitudinal crack running up its whole length, +a peculiarity that vexed us hugely. Half a dozen times did we attempt to +cross by some tempting-looking bridge, but on each occasion we were +brought to a stand by impassable crevasses; then had to turn back, go up a +little farther, and try again. It was already late in the day and we could +ill spare the time lost in this to and fro movement. Eventually we reached +a little patch of rocks not far from the head of the glacier. No sooner +had we reached these rocks than the guides hunted up a suitable place and +concealed some utterly worthless property as carefully as if they expected +evil-minded marauders to be wandering about, seeking what they might +pilfer. Having effected the cache with due care, Franz once again burst +into a strange carol, the burden of which was unintelligible, but the +chorus made frequent allusion to "der Teufel." We now saw that, after all, +the only feasible plan would be to cut our way still higher up a steep +slope, and thus to work right round, describing a large curve. An +occasional step required to be scraped, for the glacier is in shadow till +late in the morning, owing to the Aiguille Verte intervening and cutting +off the sun's rays. Throughout the day our second guide had been burning +with a desire to exhibit the good qualities of the most portentous ice axe +I ever saw, an instrument of an unwieldy character resembling a labourer's +pick on the top of a May pole. Its dimensions were monstrous and its +weight preposterous: moreover, the cutting spike had an evil curve and, +instead of hewing out blocks of ice neatly, preferred to ram a huge hole +in the slope and stick fast therein, while a quiver ran through its mighty +frame and communicated itself to the striker, who shuddered at each blow +as after taking a dose of very bitter physic. However, Franz was so proud +of his halberd that we were obliged to sacrifice rapid progress to the +consideration of his feelings, and he was accordingly sent on to cut the +steps which were now found necessary. With no little exertion did he +construct a staircase of which the steps were about the size of foot +baths, and with no slight impatience did we watch his gymnastics and +athletic flourishes, which were a sort of mixture of tossing the caber and +throwing the hammer combined with a touch of polo. Ultimately we were able +to quit the glacier for the actual face of the mountain, at a point +probably not very much below that struck by the previous party; but it was +our intention at once to bear off to the left. + +(M38) + +We blundered a little on the rocks at first after the long spell of +snow-walking. A cry from Franz caused us to look round, and we perceived +that he had got entangled with the big axe, the spike of which was +sticking into the third button of his waistcoat, causing him, as the +strain on the rope above and below folded him up in a rather painful +manner, to assume the attitude of a mechanical toy monkey on a stick. +Fearing that he might be placed in the condition in which cats' meat is +usually offered for sale, we slackened the rope and saved him from +impending perforation, but with the result that the axe bounded off down +the slope, turned two or three summersaults, and then stuck up defiantly +in a distant patch of snow, looking like a sign-post. While Franz went off +to recover his loved treasure we huddled together on a very little ledge +of rock, and sat there in a row like busts on a shelf--if the simile be not +considered anatomically inappropriate. But these delays had wasted much +time, and already success seemed doubtful. Little time could now be +devoted to consultation, and little good would have come of it; now that +we were on the rocks the only thing to do was to go straight on and see +what would happen. At the same time we had a dim consciousness that we +were considerably to the right of the best line of ascent. Our "general +idea"--to borrow a military phrase of which, by the way, it may be remarked +that the idea in question is usually confined to the general and is not +shared in by the troops--consisted in making for the left-hand side or +Montanvert aspect of the final peak. We set our teeth, whatever that may +mean, then fell to with a will and for some two hours went with scarcely a +check. And a rare two hours' climb we had. The very thought of it makes +the pen travel swiftly over the paper, as the scene comes back in every +detail. How Burgener led the way without hesitation and almost without +mistake; how our second guide chattered unceasingly, caring nought for a +listener; how they both stuck to the rocks like limpets; how the big axe +got in everybody's way; how the rope got caught on every projecting spur +of rock, jerking back the unwary, or when loose sweeping down showers of +small angular stones from the little platforms and ridges, thereby +engendering ill blood and contumely; how the silent porter climbed +stolidly after us, and in the plenitude of his taciturn good-humour poked +at us from below with his staff at inconvenient moments and in sensitive +places; how at one moment we were flat against the rock, all arms and +legs, like crushed spiders, and at another gathered into great loops like +a cheese maggot on the point of making a leap; how a volley of little +stones came whistling cheerily down from above, playfully peppering us all +round; how our spirits rose with our bodies till we became as excited as +children: of all these things it boots not to give any detailed +description. Those who can recollect similar occasions need but to be +reminded of them, and, to tell the truth, the minuti, though they are so +graven upon the mind that a clear impression could be struck off years +afterwards, are apt to prove somewhat tedious. Two facts I may note. One, +that the rocks were at first very much easier than was expected; another, +that we should have done better had we discarded the rope on this part of +the climb: the rocks were hardly a fit place for those who could not +dispense with its use. Ever and anon the guides' spirits would rise to +that level which may be called the shouting point, and they would jdel +till they were black in the face, while the melodious roll of sound echoed +cheerily back from the distant cliffs of the Aiguille Moine. And so we +journeyed up. + +(M39) + +Meanwhile the weather had changed; black clouds had come rolling up and +were gathering ominously above us; it was evident that we had no chance of +reaching the summit that day, even if it were practicable, but still we +persevered desperately in the hope of seeing some possible route for a +future attack. Progress, however, on a rock peak is necessarily slow when +there are five on the rope, and we should probably have done more wisely +if we had divided into two parties. We kept well to the left to a point on +the face where a huge tower of rock stands four-square to all the winds of +heaven that blow; and above us, as a matter of fact, there seemed to be a +good many winds. This landmark, very conspicuous and characteristic of +these aiguilles, seemed to be close to the ridge, but on reaching it we +found that there was still a stiff passage intervening between us and the +point from which we could overlook the other side of the mountain. Now we +bore to the right and the climbing became more difficult. We made our way +straight up a very shallow gully and finally reached a point on the +western ridge overlooking the Montanvert, close to where this ridge merges +into the corresponding face of the peak. Here a halt was called, for two +reasons. In the first place a few flakes of snow were softly falling +around and the gathering clouds betokened more to follow. Secondly, so far +as we could judge through the mist, it was apparently impossible to ascend +any higher from the place we had reached. So we cast off the rope and +clambered separately to various points of vantage to survey the work that +lay before us. The summit of the peak, enveloped in thin cloud, appeared +to tower no great height above us, but we were too close under the cliff +to estimate its elevation very correctly. At the time we thought that if +we could only keep up the pace at which we had been going, an hour's climb +would have sufficed to reach the top. We found, it may be remarked +parenthetically, that we were egregiously in error in this estimate some +years later. The shifting clouds made the rock face--that is, the small +extent of it that we could see at all--look much more difficult than in all +probability it actually was. Through the mists we made out, indistinctly, +a formidable-looking irregular crack in the rock face running very +straight up and rather to our left, which apparently constituted the only +possible route from our position to a higher level. But from where we +stood we could not have reached the lower end of this crack without a +ladder of about fifty feet in length, and the mist entirely prevented us +from judging whether we could reach it by a dtour. The choice lay between +hunting for some such line or else in trying what seemed on the whole more +practicable, viz. working round by the north-east face again, so as to +search for a more easy line of ascent. But the latter alternative would +have involved of necessity a considerable descent. While we debated what +course to take the mists swept up thicker and thicker from below, and in a +moment the peak above us was concealed and all the view cut off. A +piercingly cold wind began to rise and a sharp storm of hail and sleet +descended. Hints were dropped about the difficulty of descending rocks +glazed over with ice with a proper amount of deliberation. It was +obviously impossible to go up and might soon become very difficult to go +down. The question was not actually put, but, in conformity with what was +evidently the general sense of the meeting, we somewhat reluctantly made +up our minds to return. A dwarf stone man was constructed, the rope +readjusted, and half an hour's descent put us out of the mist and snow. We +stopped again and stared upwards blankly at the leve line of mist hanging +heavily against the peak. Burgener now came forward with a definite +resolution and proposed that we should stay where we were for the night +and try again the next day. This was referred to a sub-committee, who +reported against the suggestion on the ground that the stock of provisions +left consisted of a tablespoonful of wine, four rolls, and a small piece +of cheese which had strayed from the enveloping paper in the porter's +pocket and as a consequence smelt of tobacco and was covered with hairs +and fluff. These articles of diet were spread on a rock and we mentally +calculated the exact proportion that would fall to each man's share if we +attempted, as proposed, to subsist on them for a day and a half. But +little deliberation was required. We decided at once to return. The porter +gathered the fragments lovingly together and replaced them with other +curious articles in his side pocket. By 8.30 P.M. we were back at +Chamouni, having been out a little under twenty hours. + +(M40) + +A day or two later we made up our minds to start once more. Great +preparations were made for an early departure, the idea that we should +find it distasteful to start at the hour at which a London ball begins +being scouted, as it usually is over-night. We impressed on an intelligent +"boots" with great earnestness the absolute necessity of waking us +precisely at midnight, and then went to our repose, feeling about as much +inclined for sleep as a child does during the afternoon siesta intended to +prepare it for the glories of a pantomime. The "boots" did not fail; in +fact he was extra-punctual, as our departure was the signal for his +retiring. At midnight the party assembled in the little courtyard in front +of the hotel, but a dismal sight met our gaze. Under the influence of a +warm sou'-wester, thick black clouds had filled the valley, and a gentle +drizzle reminded us of the balmy climate of our own metropolis in +November. Our Alpine tour for the season was nearly at an end, and we +gazed despondently around. Ultimately one practical person suggested that +if we did not go to the mountain we might as well go to bed, and the +practical person endorsed his suggestion by walking off. A scurvy +practical joke did the clerk of the weather play on us that night. In the +morning the bright sunbeams came streaming in through the window, the sky +was cloudless and the outline of every peak was sharply defined in the +clear air. A more perfect morning for the expedition could hardly have +been chosen. Some ill-timed remarks at breakfast referring pointedly to +people who talk a good deal over-night about early starts, and the deep +concern of the "boots" at our presumed slothfulness, goaded us to +desperation. We determined to start again and to have one more try the +next day whatever the weather might prove to be. Once more we found +ourselves in the small hours of the morning on the path leading to Les +Ponts. Had it not been for the previous day's lesson we should probably +have turned back from this point, for the whole of the mountain opposite +was concealed in thick drifting mist. The guides flatly refused to go on +as matters stood. We were determined on our side not to give it up, and so +a compromise was effected. It was agreed to wait for an hour or two and +see if matters mended. So we stretched ourselves out on a damp sloping +rock, prepared to resume our journey at the slightest indication of a +change for the better. Rest at such a time even under these hard, not to +say stony, conditions is seductive, and, as we lay half dozing, strange +heretical thoughts came crowding into the mind. Why toil up this mountain +when one can rest in luxury on these knobby rocks? Why labour over the +shifting moraine, the deceitful glacier, the slippery rock? What is the +good of it all? Can it be vanity or----"Vorwrts!" The dream vanished as the +cheery cry broke out from the guide engaged on outpost duty, and as we +rose and stretched ourselves the whole aspect of affairs seemed changed. A +distinct break in the clouds at the head of the Mer de Glace gave promise +of better things in store, and we felt almost guilty of having wasted an +hour or more at our halt. The break became larger and larger, and before +long the great cloud banks resolved into one huge streamer flying from the +summit of the peak. I fancy that, at any rate in the early stages of +mountaineering, many good chances are thrown away on such days, for guides +are as a rule somewhat prone to despondency in the early morning hours. +Once started, however, they became wondrously keen, complained of our +delay, and even asserted with some effrontery that they had predicted fine +weather all the time, and this without a blush; still some one rather +neatly defined blushing as a suffusion least seldom seen in those who have +the most occasion for it, and guides share with politicians a certain +power of manipulating their opinions to suit the exigencies of the moment. +The traces of our former attempt assisted us materially on the glacier. +Our plan of attack consisted in getting on the rocks at our former point, +but working on this occasion much more directly up the face. Burgener +conceived that by following this line of assault we should be able to +ascend, by means of a gully which existed only in his own imagination, to +a more practicable part of the peak. Between the two summits of the +Aiguille du Dru may be seen, at any rate in photographs, a +tempting-looking streak of snow: it seemed possible, if we could once +reach the lower point of this streak, to follow its line upwards. The +lower peak of the Dru is well rounded on its eastern face, and the rocks +appear more broken than in other parts of the mountain. + +(M41) + +If we could but once reach the cleft between the peaks there seemed every +chance of our being able to reach the lower summit. At the outset progress +was fast. We followed our former line till we were in sight of the rock +tower and then at once bore off to the right. The climbing was rather more +difficult, at least it seemed so to us in those days, than on the other +part of the mountain with which we had previously made acquaintance. A +series of short flat gullies had to be climbed, but there were exceedingly +few inequalities to help us. The rope was of little or no use and might +perhaps have been laid aside with advantage. We soon found that we had +reached a higher point than at our previous attempt, and as the leader +constantly returned favourable reports our spirits rose; so elated in fact +did we become that the exact formalities to be observed on reaching the +top were seriously discussed whenever the occasion offered for +conversation, which was not very often. Old Franz chattered away to +himself, as was his wont when matters went well, and on looking back on +one occasion I perceived the strange phenomenon of a smile illuminating +the porter's features. Howbeit, this worthy spake no words of +satisfaction, but pulled ever at his empty pipe. By dint of wriggling over +a smooth sloping stone slab we had got into a steep rock gully which +promised to lead us to a good height. Burgener, assisted by much pushing +and prodding from below and aided on his own part by much snorting and +some strong language, had managed to climb on to a great overhanging +boulder that cut off the view from the rest of the party below. As he +disappeared from sight we watched the paying out of the rope with as much +anxiety as a fisherman eyes his vanishing line when the salmon runs. +Presently the rope ceased to move and we waited for a few moments in +suspense. We felt that the critical moment of the expedition had arrived, +and the fact that our own view was exceedingly limited made us all the +more anxious to hear the verdict. "How does it look?" we called out. The +answer came back in patois, a bad sign in such emergencies. For a minute +or two an animated conversation was kept up; then we decided to take +another opinion and accordingly hoisted up our second guide. The chatter +was redoubled. "What does it look like?" we shouted again. "Not possible +from where we are," was the melancholy answer, and in a tone that crashed +at once all our previous elation. I could not find words at the moment to +express my disappointment: but the porter could and gallantly he came to +the rescue. He opened his mouth for the first time and spoke, and he said +very loud indeed that it was "verdammt." Precisely: that is just what it +was. Having made this short speech, the porter allowed the smile to fade +away from his features, shook out some imaginary ashes and proceeded to +light some visionary tobacco, sucking at a lighted match through the +medium of an empty pipe. It seemed hard to believe at first that we were +to be baulked when so near the summit, and it was not till the guides had +tried again and again to storm the almost vertical wall of smooth rock and +had shown the utter impossibility of turning it either right or left, that +we felt we were really beaten. One more forlorn chance remained: we might +try the west face of the mountain from the spot we had reached at our +first attempt, when the weather had prevented us from making any further +progress. Had there been more time at our disposal we should have done +better to try another line of ascent more to our right, that is, nearer to +the col, and it might be possible to reach the cleft between the two +summits by this means. As for the snow streak which looked so tempting at +a distance, it is a delusion and a snare, if the latter term be applicable +to a place which appears to be much more difficult to get into than it +probably would be to get out of. We had already pretty fully realised that +the mountain was more difficult to ascend than we had ever contemplated, +and it seemed advisable at the moment to make for some definite point +which at any rate we felt sure of reaching and to study the peak in detail +to the best of our ability; so we made towards our cairn, though with +little hope of gaining much knowledge thereby. + +(M42) + +Without much difficulty, but not without some little danger from falling +stones (though on the whole, the mountain is remarkably free from these +annoyances, there being as a matter of fact but few loose stones to fall), +we reached our former point and were able to judge distinctly of how much +higher we had reached at our second attempt. We saw also that upward +progress from the point on which we stood would not be possible, but it +must be remembered that we were able only to see a small strip of the +mountain lying directly above. Every crag that was not absolutely vertical +appeared to overhang, and the few small cracks that might have afforded +hand and foot hold led nowhere in particular. Altogether the view was +depressing although limited. There was no time to hunt about for other +routes, or we should certainly have done so, for we felt that though +beaten our discomfiture only arose from the fact that we had chosen a +wrong line of ascent. Possibly within a few yards of us lay a feasible +route, but we knew not on which side it might be. Here it occurred to the +porter for the first time that his pipe was empty and had been so all day: +he thereupon made his second remark, which consisted in an audible request +for something to put in it. We had dragged up with us (as a matter of fact +the porter had carried it the whole time) some 200 feet of rope, thinking +it might help us in the descent, but the part of the mountain on which we +were presents no more difficulties in this respect than does Avernus. + +(M43) + +Arrived on the snow slope opposite the rock face on which we had been +climbing during the day, we stopped, extended the telescope, and tried to +make out our exact line, and endeavoured also to discover what had been +our error; no easy task, as any persons of experience will admit. At any +time the appearance of this peak is deceptive, and the outline no more +guides you to a knowledge of the natural details than does the outline of +a fashionable lady's dress. But as we looked the mountain seemed flattened +out by reason of a blue evening mist which obscured all the +irregularities. So we turned and resumed our journey down, running hard +across the Mer de Glace, for the shades of night drew on apace, and +reached Chamouni at 8.30 in the evening, leaving the guides at the +Montanvert with half a bottle of thin red wine between three of them. We +were overtaken by Edouard Cupelin, one of the best of the Chamouni guides, +at any rate on rock mountains, on our way down, and he gave us a rather +sensational account of his own adventures on the peak. In justice to him +it should be mentioned that he was almost the only Chamouni guide who +seemed to think the ascent possible, and in his opinion the general line +that we had adopted was the correct one. Our second expedition thus from +first to last occupied about 20 hours, but the halts were not nearly so +numerous as on the first occasion. The experience of our two days' +climbing led us to the conclusion that Cupelin was right. From the +peculiar character of the rocks and the fact that our climbing lay chiefly +along short flat gullies we were unable, as already remarked, to get a +very clear idea of any part of the mountain except that on which we were +actually engaged, and we were led to the opinion that the only plan to +find a possible route would consist in trying in succession from below the +different parts of the southern face. The final peak, which from this side +shoots up clearly defined from the great mass of the mountain, seemed to +us tolerably easy of ascent provided one could reach the base. A sort of +depression extends three parts of the way round, and the edge of this +shallow moat appeared to be defended by an inaccessible belt of vertical +rock. The actual rocks were wholly unlike any met with elsewhere in our +experience. Great vertical slabs were fitted together with an accuracy +which was beautiful in its perfection, but irritating beyond conception to +the climber. Progress upwards, when above the level of the col, +necessitated a series of fatiguing gymnastics like swimming uphill, but +the rocks where they were possible proved invariably firm and good. On +both occasions we were stopped by sheer difficulty and probably saw the +mountain at its very best. The snow on the rocks, which proved such a +formidable difficulty to Mr. Pendlebury's party, had almost entirely +disappeared before our assault. The rocks were warm and the weather on the +second day was perfect. + +(M44) + +Such is the history of our first two attempts to climb this mountain. They +served but to whet our appetite for success, but it was not till years +after that we were fortunate enough to meet with that success. + + + + + + CHAPTER IV. + + + A DAY ACROSS COUNTRY + + + The art of meteorological vaticination--The climate we leave our + homes for--Observations in the valley--The diligence arrives and + shoots its load--Types of travellers--The Alpine habitu--The elderly + spinster on tour--A stern Briton--A family party--We seek fresh + snow-fields--The Bietschhorn--A sepulchral bivouac--On early starts + and their curious effects on the temperament--A choice of routes--A + deceptive ice gully--The avalanches on the Bietschhorn--We work up + to a dramatic situation--The united party nearly fall out--A limited + panorama--A race for home--Caught out--A short cut--Driven to + extremities--The water jump--An aged person comes to the rescue--A + classical banquet at Ried--The old cur and his hospitality--A + wasted life? + + +The summer season of 1878 was one of the worst on record. Meteorologists, +by a species of climatic paradox, might have had a fine time of it; +mountaineers had a most wet and disagreeable time of it. The weather +prophets easily established a reputation for infallibility--according to +the accepted modern standard of vaticination--by predicting invariably evil +things. They were thus right five times out of six, which will readily be +acknowledged as very creditable in persons who were uninspired, save by a +desire to exalt themselves in the eyes of their fellow tourists. But, as +in the case of that singularly hopeful person Tantalus, the torture was +rendered more artistic and aggravating by sporadic promise of better +things. One day the rock aiguilles were powdered over and white-speckled +with snow. The climber looked up longingly at the heights above, but +visions of numbing cold and frost-bitten fingers caused him to thrust the +latter members into his pockets and turn away with a sigh, to put it +mildly, and avert his gaze from the chilling spectacle. Then would he +follow his daily practice--his thrice-a-daily practice in all +probability--of overeating himself. Perhaps, while still engaged at _table +d'hte_ in consuming, at any rate in masticating, the multiform dish +generically named "chevreuil," the glow of a rosy sunset, and the hope of +brighter things in store for the morrow, would attract him to the window. + +(M45) + +The next day would produce scorching heat, a clear sky, a rising +barometer, and a revival of spirits; diet, as the physicians say, as +before. The powdered snow would disappear off the ledges and, melting, +distribute itself more uniformly over the rocks, which as a result +presented a shining appearance, as the morning face of a schoolboy or the +Sunday face of a general servant. At night a clear sky and a sharp frost +in the high regions, and the next day the mountain would be more +impossible than ever. Still, recognising that another few hours of +grateful sunshine would cause the thin film of ice glazing the rocks to +melt and evaporate, the energetic climber (and we were very energetic that +year) would summon his guides and all his resolution, pack up his traps, +and start for a bivouac up aloft, to return, in all probability, at the +end of twenty-four hours, in a downfall of rain and in the condition of +steamy moisture so tersely described by Mr. Mantalini. Such, during July +1878, was our lot day after day in the glorious Alpine climate. We paced +up and down, with the regularity of sentries, between our camp on the +Aiguille du Dru and Couttet's hotel at Chamouni. Occasionally we ascended +some distance up the Glacier de la Charpoua and took observations. Once or +twice we proceeded far enough on the rocks of the Aiguille du Dru to prove +the impossibility of ascending them to any great height. Still we were +loth to depart and run the risk of losing a favourable opportunity of +assaulting the mountain with any chance of success. It fell out thus that +we had good opportunities of observing our fellow creatures and the +various types of travellers who, notwithstanding the weather, still +crowded into Chamouni; for it was only on rock peaks such as the Aiguille +du Dru, or difficult mountains like the Aiguille Verte, that climbing was +impossible. This condition of things did not affect to any very +appreciable extent the perambulating peasants who constitute the vast +majority of the body known as guides in Chamouni. These worthies merely +loafed a little more than they were wont to do, if that be possible. +Perhaps the gathering invariably to be found, during twenty hours out of +the twenty-four, at the cross roads near Tairraz's shop was still more +numerously attended, and there was some slight increase in the number of +sunburnt individuals who found intellectual exercise sufficient to +apologise for their existence in wearing their hands in their pockets, +smoking indifferent tobacco, expectorating indiscriminately, and uttering +statements devoid of sense or point to anybody who cared to listen. The +weather had no effect on them; whether wet or dry, cold or warm, they +still occupied themselves from June to September in the same manner. Once +in the early morning, and once again about five o'clock in the evening, +were they momentarily galvanised out of their listlessness by the arriving +and departing diligences. + +(M46) + +On the arrival of the caravan the contingent was usually reinforced by +some of our own countrymen. The proper attitude for the English visitor at +Chamouni to assume, when watching the evening incursion of tourists, +consisted in leaning against the wall on the south side of the street, and +so to pose himself as to indicate independence of the proceedings and to +wear an expression of indifference tinged with a suggestion of cynical +humour. This was usually accomplished by wearing the hands in the pockets, +tilting the hat a little over the eyes, crossing the legs, and laughing +unduly at the remarks of companions, whether audible or not. Some few +considered that smoking a wooden pipe assisted the realisation of the +effect intended: others apparently held that a heavy object held in the +mouth interfered with the expression. I have observed that these same +onlookers were bitterly indignant at the ordeal they had to pass through +on returning to their native shores vi Folkestone, when clambering +wearily with leaden eyes and sage-green complexions up the pier steps. Yet +the diligence travellers, begrimed with dust, stung of horse flies, +cramped, choked, and so jolted that they recognised more bony prominences +than previous anatomical knowledge had ever led them to expect they +possessed, were none the less objects of pity. Still human nature is +always worthy of study, and those who arrived, together with those who +went to see them arrive, were equally interesting under the depressing +climatic influences which so often forbade us to take our pleasure +elsewhere. + +(M47) + +It was curious to note how, day after day, the diligence on its arrival +released from the cramped thraldom of its uncomfortable seats almost +exactly the same load. As the great lumbering yellow vehicle came within +sight, one or two familiar faces would be seen craning out to catch the +first sight of an old guide or mountain friend. These _habitus_ as a rule +secured for themselves the corner seats. We knew exactly what their +luggage would be. A bundle of axes like Roman "fasces" would be handed out +first, with perhaps a little unnecessary ostentation, followed by a coil +of rope which might have been packed up in the portmanteau, but usually +was not; then a knapsack, with marks on the back like a map of the +continent of America if the owner was an old hand, and a spotless minute +check if he were only trying to look like one. The owners of the knapsacks +would be clad in suits that once were dittos, flannel shirts and the +familiar British wide-awake, the new aspirants for mountaineering fame +decorating their head gear with snow spectacles purchased in Geneva. Very +business-like would they show themselves in collecting their luggage +before anybody else; then, with a knowing look at the mountains, they +would make their way to Couttet's. Next, perhaps, would follow a party of +some two or three spinsters travelling alone and as uncertain about their +destination as they were of their age. To attract such, some of the hotel +proprietors, more astute than their fellows, despatched to the scene of +action porters of cultivated manners and obsequious demeanour, who seldom +failed, by proving themselves to be "such nice polite men, my dear," to +ensnare the victims. Burdened with the numerous parcels and odd little +bags this class of traveller greatly affects, the nicely mannered porter +would lead the way to the hotel or pension, probably bestowing, as he +passed, a wink on some friend among the guides, who recognised at once the +type of tourist that would inevitably visit the Montanvert, probably the +Chapeau and possibly the Flgre, and recognising too the type in whom +judicious compliments were not likely to be invested without satisfactory +results. Such people invariably enquired if they could not be taken _en +pension_. Somewhat frugal as regards diet, especially breakfast, but with +astounding capacities for swallowing _table d'hte_ dinners or such +romance as the guides might be pleased to invent on the subject of their +own prowess and exploits. Charming old ladies these often were, as pleased +with the novelty of everything they saw around them as a gutter child in a +country meadow. Their nature changes marvellously in the Alps. Scarcely +should we recognise in the small wiry traveller in the mountains the same +individual whom we might meet in town--say in the neighbourhood of +Bloomsbury. I have noticed such a one not a hundred miles from there whose +energy for sight-seeing when in the Alps surpassed all belief. Yet here +she seemed but a little, wrinkled, bent-in-the-back old woman, flat of +foot, reckless at crossings, finding difficulty on Sunday mornings in +fishing a copper out of her reticule for the crossing sweeper, by reason +of the undue length of the finger-tips to her one-buttoned black kid +gloves, and accompanied on week days, perhaps for the sake of contrast, by +a sprightly little black and tan dog of so arrogant a disposition that it +declined to use in walking all the legs which Providence had furnished it. +Next, perhaps, the British paterfamilias, who might or might not be a +clergyman, most intractable of tourists; ever prone to combine instruction +with amusement for the benefit of his bored family, slightly relaxing on +week days, but rigid and austere on Sundays beyond conception. And then +the foreign sub-Alpine walker or "intrpide," clad in special garments of +local make and highly vaunted efficiency, garrulous, smoky, voracious, a +trifle greasy, and dealing habitually in ecstatic hendecasyllables +expressive of admiration of everything he saw. Next the family party, +possibly with a courier, with whom the younger members were, as a rule, +unduly familiar: the boys wearing tailed shooting coats, consorting but +ill with Eton turn-down collars, groaning under the burden of green baize +bags containing assorted guide books, strange receptacles for the +umbrellas of the party, and with leathern wallets slung around their +shoulders, stuffed with the useless articles boys cherish and love to +carry with them; the girls awkwardly conscious and feeling ill at ease by +reason of the practical dresses, boots, and head gear devised for them at +home, looking tenderly after a collection of weakly sticks tipped with +chamois horns and decorated with a spirally arranged list of localities; +the whole party in an excessively bad temper, which the boys exhibited by +pummelling and thumping when "pa" was not looking and the girls by little +sniffs, head tossings, and pointed remarks at each other that they had no +idea what guys they looked. It will be observed that the constant bad +weather induced a cynical condition of mind. + +(M48) + +We made up our minds, notwithstanding the attractions of this varied +company, to quit them for a while, to seek fresh snow-fields and glaciers +new, and to leave the rocks of the Aiguille du Dru for a time unmolested. +At the suggestion of Jaun we betook ourselves to the Oberland for a +contemplated ascent of the Bietschhorn by a new route. Under a tropical +sun we made our way by the interminable zigzags through the Trient valley +down to Vernayaz, where we met again, like the witches in "Macbeth," in +thunder and in rain. Our project was to ascend the Bietschhorn from the +Visp side and descend it by the usual route to Ried. This form of novelty +had become so common in mountaineering that a new word had been coined +expressly to describe such expeditions, and the climber, if he succeeded +in his endeavour, was said to have "colled" the peak. The phrase, however, +was only admissible on the first occasion, and it was subsequently +described by any who followed, in more prosaic terms, as going up one side +and down the other. + +(M49) + +We did not experience any unusual difficulty in leaving Visp tolerably +early in the morning. The chorus of frogs, who were in remarkably fine +voice that night in the neighbouring swamps, kept us awake, and the proper +musical contrast was provided by the alto humming of some hungry +mosquitoes. Our plan of assault was to camp somewhere at the head of the +Baltschieder Thal, which is a dreary stony valley with only a few huts +that would scarcely be considered habitable even by a London +slum-landlord. The living inhabitants appeared to consist of three unkempt +children, two pigs, one imbecile old man, and a dog with a fortuitous +family. On the whole, therefore, we came to the conclusion that nature +would probably provide better accommodation than the local architectural +art, and a short search revealed a most luxurious bivouac, close to the +left moraine of the Baltschieder Glacier, under the shelter of the +Fschhorn and a little above the level of the ice fall. A huge, flat slab +of rock formed the roof of a wedge-shaped cavity capable of holding at +least six persons, if disposed in a horizontal position. The space between +the floor and the roof, it is true, was not much more than three feet; but +the chamber, though well sheltered, demanded no ventilating tubes to +ensure a proper supply of fresh air. Having a little spare time and being +luxuriously inclined, we decided to sleep on spring beds. First we swept +the stone floor, then covered it with a thick layer of dry rhododendron +branches, over which were laid large sods of dried peat grass, and the +beds were complete. The pointed ends of the twigs showed rather a tendency +to penetrate through the grassy covering during the night, but otherwise +the mattresses were all that could be desired. About two in the morning we +got up--that is, we would have got up had it not been physically impossible +to do so by reason of the lowness of the roof. A more correct expression +would be perhaps to say that we turned out, rolling from under the shelter +of the slab one after another. By the dim light of an ineffective candle, +poked into the neck of a broken bottle, we found it no easy matter to +collect all the articles which the guides had of course unpacked and +stowed away as if they were going to stay a week; indeed, a certain bottle +of seltzer water will probably still be found--at any rate the bottle +will--by anyone who seeks repose in the same quarters. + +(M50) + +We started in the usual frame of mind--that is to say, everybody was +exceedingly facetious for about three minutes. In about ten minutes one of +the party, who would slake his thirst unduly at a crystal spring near the +bivouac the previous evening, found that his boot lace was untied; +circumstances which do not seem associated at first sight, but are not, +nevertheless, infrequently observed. So again have I often remarked that a +good dinner overnight develops in an astonishing manner admiration for +distant views when ascending on the subsequent day. Within a quarter of an +hour the amateurs of the party ceased to indulge in conversation, their +remarks dying away into a species of pained silence similar to that which +is induced in youthful voluptuaries by the premature smoking of clay +pipes. The guides, however, seldom if ever desisted from dialogue, and +never for the purpose of listening to each other's remarks. Still, the +respiratory process is governed by the same conditions in the case of +guides as in other mortals, and though they would scorn to stoop to the +boot-lace subterfuge, and feel that a sudden admiration for scenery would +deceive no one, they yet found it necessary before long to distribute +their burdens more equally; a process achieved by halting, untying several +strings, taking out several parcels and replacing them in the same +positions. By these various methods we acquired what athletes call "second +wind" and stepped out more strongly. We crossed a moraine of the usual +inconsistency--however, the subject of loose moraines has been, I fancy, +touched upon by other writers. The Baltschieder Glacier sweeps at a right +angle round a mountain christened, not very originally, the Breithorn. +This particular member of that somewhat numerous family blocks up the head +of the Baltschieder Thal. We skirted the north base of the Breithorn, +passing between it and the Jgihorn, and arriving at the top of a steep +little slope came in full view of the eastern slopes of our objective +peak. At this point Maurer gave vent to a dismal wail of anguish as it +suddenly occurred to him that he had left the bottle of seltzer water down +below. With some difficulty did we persuade him that it was not necessary +to return for it, although the idea of repose was not wholly distasteful, +but we felt that we had probably all our work cut out for us in one sense, +and that the days were none too long for such an expedition as the one we +had in hand. Two distinct lines of attack appeared to offer themselves. +One route, more to our right, led upwards by a gentle curved ridge, +chiefly of snow, connecting the Baltschieder Joch with the northern arte +of the mountain. In 1866 Messrs. D. W. Freshfield and C. C. Tucker, as we +learnt subsequently, attained a high point by this way and were only +prevented from accomplishing the actual ascent by bad weather, though they +did enough to prove the practicability of the route. However, this way, +which appeared the easier of the two, was evidently the longer from our +position. The other route had the advantage of lying straight in front of +us. Its attraction consisted of a broad long gully of snow enclosed +between two ridges of rock. By the dim morning light the snow appeared +easy enough and was evidently in suitable condition: howbeit, long snow +couloirs, at the summit of which rocks overhang, are not usually to be +recommended when the mountain itself is composed of friable material. Now +it would be difficult to find in the whole of the Alps a mountain more +disposed to cast stones at its assailants than the Bietschhorn, a fact of +which we were fully aware. Every ascent of this disintegrating peak so +rearranges the rocks that the next comers would not be wholly without +justification if they pleaded that the details of their ascent were to a +great extent new. Still, mountaineers up to the present have not been +quite reduced to such a far-fetched claim to novelty, although in these +latter days they have at times come perilously near it. Judging by the +direction of the strata, we felt certain that the rock ridges must be +practicable, and the problem in mountaineering set before us consisted in +finding out how we might best ascend without subjecting ourselves to the +inconveniences experienced by some of the early martyrs. + +(M51) + +An early breakfast put fresh strength into us. It is a common mistake of +mountaineers not to breakfast early enough and not to breakfast often +enough. If it be desired to achieve a long expedition when there is not +likely to be too much spare time, the wise man will eat something at least +every two hours up to about 10 o'clock in the morning, supposing, for +instance, he started about 2 A.M. It is astonishing to notice how the full +man gains upon the empty one on fatiguing snow slopes. We strode rapidly +across the basin of snow called the Jgifirn and arrived at the foot of +the gully. But now we could see that our suspicions were more than +verified: ugly-looking marks in the snow above indicated falling stones, +and the snow itself was obviously in a condition prone to avalanches. This +danger must always be present in couloirs to a greater or less extent in +such seasons as the one we were experiencing. There had been sufficient +power of sun to convert the contents of the gully into what would have +been, in fine weather, a glistening ice slope. But much fresh snow had +fallen recently. It but rarely can happen, when snow has fallen late in +the season or during the hot months, that the new and the old layers can +become properly amalgamated. If, therefore, there is too great a thickness +of fresh snow to allow of steps being cut through this into the ice +beneath, such couloirs are unsafe. The mark of a single avalanche due to +the sliding off of the fresh snow on the ice beneath--a mark easily enough +recognised--would deter any save an unwise person or a novice from +attempting such a line of ascent. The marvellous hereditary instinct so +often attributed to guides in judging of this condition really reduces +itself to a matter of very simple observation and attention, and one +within the reach of anybody. But travellers in the Alps too often appear +to treat their reasoning faculties like they do their tall hats, and leave +them at home. The question then was, Were the rocks right or left of this +snow gully practicable? We all agreed that they were, and proceeded at +once to test the accuracy of our opinion. + +(M52) + +We crossed the bergschrund--that godsend to writers on mountaineering in +search of material to act as padding--and without dwelling on its insecure +bridge longer than we need now dwell on the subject made swiftly for some +rocks on the left. Scarcely had we gained them when a rush of snow and +ice, of no great dimensions, but still large enough to be formidable, +obliterated all the tracks we had just made. This settled the point at +once, and we felt that by the rocks alone would it be proper to force the +ascent. While on the ridge we were safe enough, and had the advantage as +we clambered up of a most commanding position from whence we could view +the frequent avalanches that swept by. The rain of the previous night, +though it had only lasted for an hour or two, had evidently had a great +effect on the state of the snow, and the avalanches seemed to pour down +almost incessantly: probably some forty or fifty swept by us while we +climbed by the side of the gully, and our situation gave rise to that +feeling of somewhat pained security which is experienced when standing on +a railway platform as an express train dashes by; we certainly felt that +some of the downfalls would have reduced our party to a pulp quite as +easily and with as much unconcern as the train itself. The guides, who do +not perhaps tax their memories very severely for a parallel on such an +occasion, asserted, as they generally do, that they had never seen +anything like it in the whole course of their lives. They then fell to +whistling, laughed very gaily, and borrowed tobacco from each other. + +(M53) + +Gradually our difficulties became more pronounced, and conversation on +indifferent topics was discarded, the remarks being confined to brief +exclamations such as "Keep it tight!" "Don't touch that one!" "Hold on +now!" "You're treading on my fingers!" "The point of your axe is sticking +into my stomach!" and similar ejaculations. Once in a way we ascended for +a few feet by the snow, though never quite losing touch of the rocks, and +sank waist deep in the soft compound filling up the gully. Then we went +back to the rotten rocks for a brief spell, well content to be more out of +the reach of chance fragments of ice falling down the shoot. It is +wonderful to note how quickly time passes in an exciting climb of this +nature; but our progress was actually rather rapid, so fast indeed that we +did not fully realise at one period that we were getting into difficulties +and that we had without doubt strayed, Christian-like, from the narrow +path which was evidently the right one. Throughout the day we were +conscious that the climb was too long to be completed if we made any +serious mistake involving the retracing of steps. Quite suddenly, our +situation became critical: a hurried glance up and down along the line +revealed the fact that each member of the party had to do all he knew to +preserve his position. The attitudes were ungainly enough to suggest +instantaneous photographs at an ill-selected movement of four individuals +dancing a "can-can." Maurer was engaged apparently in an extremely close +and minute inspection of the toe of his right boot. Another member of the +party was giving a practical illustration of the fact that he could, by +extreme extension of his arms, stretch more than his own height, while a +third was endeavouring to find out why the power of co-ordinating his +muscular movements was suddenly lost to him, and why he could not persuade +his left leg to join his right. For a few moments Jaun, who was leading, +hung on by his finger-tips and the issue of the expedition hung in the +balance. But our leader, by dint of some complicated sprawls, transferred +himself over a passage of rock on which we had no earthly reason to be, +and assisted the rest of the party to regain a more promising line of +ascent. For those few minutes the situation was dramatic enough, and the +thought crossed my mind that the curtain might not improbably descend on +it; a solution of the difficulty which commends itself to the playwright +when he has involved his _dramatis person_ in difficulties, but which is +not without its objections to the climber. On the whole the rocks on this +face of the mountain are much more difficult than on the other, and, +writing now after the lapse of some years, I am disposed to think that +these are perhaps the most difficult crags of any that I have ever met +with to climb properly, that is with a minimum of risk to one's self and +to one's companions; as a good proof of this I may say that the ascent +would probably have appeared fairly easy to a novice and that it required +some little Alpine experience to realise their real difficulty and their +treacherous nature. There was scarcely time to test adequately all hand +and foothold, and examination of rocks by what surgeons term palpation is +a _sine qu non_ in rock climbing. Undoubtedly the mountain was not in the +best possible order. We may possibly have rearranged the rocks in our line +of ascent in a more convenient manner for those who follow. Certainly we +may fairly say that in our actual line of ascent we left no stone unturned +to ensure success. + +(M54) + +Close below the ridge--within perhaps ten feet of it, for if I remember +aright our leader had actually reached the crest--came the climax to what +was perhaps rather a perilous climb. The first and second on the rope had +met in their upward passage a huge cube of rock whose security they had +carefully tested, and to surmount which it was necessary to stretch to the +fullest extent in order to gain a respectable hold for the hands. We were +all four in a direct line one below the other, and the two last on the +rope were placed perforce directly beneath the treacherous crag. By an +extension movement which conveyed some notion of the sensation experienced +by those on the rack, I had reached a handhold pronounced to be of a +passable nature by those above. By this manoeuvre I succeeded in getting my +feet exactly to a place on which the others, who were much heavier than I, +had stood in security; without rhyme or reason the block of stone, which +was about the size of a grand pianoforte, suddenly broke away from under +me; a huge gap seemed cloven out in the mountain side, and Maurer, below, +had only just time to spring aside, enveloped in a cloud of dust, and to +throw himself flat against the rock, while the rope was strained to the +utmost. Fortunately the handhold above was sound and I was able to hold on +with feet dangling in the air, searching in vain for some projection on +which to rest. Those above were too insecure to give any efficient help, +and in fact possibly viewed my struggles, inasmuch as they were not fully +aware at first of what had happened, with as much equanimity as a person +inside a boat contemplates the gymnastic performances of a bather trying +to climb over the edge. As the cloud of dust cleared off, however, and +Maurer's face gradually beamed through it like the sun in a fog, for the +excitement had made him the colour of a cornet player giving vent to a +high note, they began to realise that something abnormal had happened, +while the distant thundering reverberations of the falling mass assured +them that it was no ordinary slip. Meanwhile Maurer planted his axe so as +to give me some foothold, and with a push from below and a pull from +above, fortunately simultaneous, I succeeded in planting my feet where my +hands were, and subsequently undoubling found that we were within a few +feet of the ridge, that the panorama beyond was undoubtedly magnificent, +but was thrown out in strong relief by deep blue-black thunder-clouds +advancing towards us. + +Jaun now removed his empty pipe from his mouth and replaced it by a +lucifer match, which, either as an aid to reflection or possibly for +medicinal purposes, he chewed as he contemplated the ridge. A miserably +cold wind with a remarkable knack of detecting all the rents in our +raiment whistled around; above, the summit of the mountain was enveloped +in driving thick mist and cloud. Still the final ridge looked fairly easy, +and indeed proved to be so. The snow was deep and soft, and the stones +below were so arranged as to remind us forcibly of a newly mended road in +our native country; big and little, all seemed loose, and all arranged +with their sharpest points and edges uppermost. The ridge is moderately +broad, and we were able to flounder along with fair rapidity. Spurred on +by the unpromising look of the weather and stimulated by the cold wind, +which rendered any halts so unpleasant as to be out of the question, we +set to work in earnest and found ourselves at the base of the final little +snow and rock cone earlier than the length of the ridge had led us to +expect. As we stepped on to the summit we experienced the curious +sensation usually arising when climbing through clouds, that the mountain +itself was sinking away rapidly from under our feet. The panorama was +wholly composed of a foreground consisting of mist, and presented +therefore comparatively few attractions. + +(M55) + +It was already so late in the afternoon that we could not have afforded to +stay in any case, and, as we felt that serious difficulties might possibly +be encountered in descending, we set off at once, visions of a warm +welcome and a hot bath at Ried rising before our minds. The idea of +descending by way of the Baltschieder Joch was negatived without a +division. The northern ridge of the Bietschhorn is a counterpart of the +one by which we had ascended, with the solitary advantage in our case that +we had to go down it and not up. The snow slopes leading down to the Nest +Glacier were much broader, and we were strongly tempted more than once to +quit the ridge for this western face of the mountain. Ultimately, +persuaded that the condition of the snow justified us in so doing, we +struck straight down on to the Nest Glacier, skirted round the ridge of +rocks dividing the Nest Glacier from the Birch Glacier, and catching sight +of a little green patch some way below, threw off the rope and rushed +precipitately down to it. Misguided by a few gleams of sunshine breaking +out between the driving clouds, we conceived the idea of repose and +thought that we might as well be aired and dried. Below, the hotel at Ried +was in full view, and it seemed but an hour or two from us: but our +troubles were not yet over. The five minutes' halt on such occasions not +uncommonly expand into five-and-fifty, and we rather deliberately averted +our gaze from the western view of the valley, up which the thunder-clouds +were advancing steadily in close formation. Eventually we decided to move +on, in order to avoid getting once more wet through. Vain hope: rapid +though our descent was to the level of the forest it was not rapid enough. +We ran furiously down the rough slopes, but, as the storm advanced and we +perceived that we should be caught, the agitation of our minds gradually +equalled the agitation of our bodies. We seemed to get no nearer Ried, +while the darkness increased rapidly around us. Knowing the proclivities +of guides on such occasions, my companion and I agreed that nothing should +induce us to leave a path, should we perchance find one. Now, in a dim +light it is exceedingly easy to discover paths, but extremely difficult to +discover that variety of track that leads anywhere. Determined, however, +to stick to our resolution, we found ourselves continually pursuing level +stretches right and left, only to find that, as routes to any particular +place, they were snares and delusions; that there was a path with long +zigzags we knew, and indeed, finally, a shout from the guides, who skipped +about downhill with an utter disregard for the integrity of their joints, +and adopted that curious cantering gait considered on the stage to express +light-hearted joy, announced that they had discovered the way. With +characteristic inconsistency, they had no sooner found what we had been so +long searching for than they proposed to leave it and make short cuts, so +called; but we were inflexible, and determined not to leave our path or be +seduced by the attractions of a perpendicular descent through an unknown +territory. The hotel lights were no longer visible, but we knew that they +lay straight below us. The question was whether we should turn right or +left. The guides settled the matter by darting off ahead, ostensibly from +a perfect acquaintance with their situation, but actually as we suspected +to avoid being worried with unpleasant topographical questions. Gradually +as we followed the track our stern purpose began to waver, for it was +pointed out by some one that the path, though undoubtedly a good one in +point of construction and general purpose, had two distinct disadvantages +from our present point of view; one being that it led uphill, and the +other that it ran in the wrong direction. There are certain contingencies +in life in which the Briton finds but one adequate method of relieving and +expressing his feelings, such, for instance, as when he finds himself +bespattered with mud from the passing hansom on a carefully selected +shirt-front and a white tie that would have moved to envy; or when, again, +as the last to leave his club at night he finds the only remaining +head-gear to consist of a well-worn beaver many sizes too large, with fur +under the brim and a decoration of little rosettes and bobstays. It is +hard to see why the ejaculation of any particular monosyllable should do +him good at such a juncture. Hard words unquestionably break no bones, but +neither do they mend the broken collar-stud or the ruptured bootlace; and +yet if he swallows the expression down it will certainly ferment within +him, and fermentation is characterised by multiplication. If, on the +contrary, he articulates his feelings, the whole situation suddenly +appears changed, and he can view the most untoward circumstances once more +with a calm serenity of temper. But the remedy, though potent, specific +almost, is too valuable to be resorted to constantly, and should be +reserved, like Thursday's razor, for the most special occasions. + +(M56) + +Our situation on the present occasion fully justified us in resorting to +the source of relief vaguely alluded to, and we employed it simultaneously +with the happiest results. Now the guides triumphed, and such was our +accommodating mood that we actually acceded to their counsel and embarked +on a perilous descent down a vertical gully. Scarcely had we turned into +it when the storm broke and the rain came down in sheets, and very damp +sheets too. Some one now suggested that the wisest plan would be to remain +under shelter till the rain had passed off. It was argued against this +amendment, and with a certain amount of force, first that there was no +probability of the rain stopping, and secondly that there was no shelter: +so we went on. Gradually, as we became more wet, we grew more desperate, +and before long floundered down as regardless of bumps as a bluebottle in +a conservatory: at one moment slithering over wet slabs of rock to which +damp tufts of moss were loosely adherent, at another climbing carefully +over gigantic toothcombs of fallen trees, then plunging head +foremost--sometimes not exactly head foremost--through jungle-like masses of +long grass and dwarf brushwood. Soaked to the skin, steamy, damp, and +perspiring like bridegrooms, we went on, utterly reckless as to our +apparel, and haunted by a perpetual idea that we should find ourselves +ultimately at some place whence further descent would be impossible. + +(M57) + +Within a few minutes the party divided and Jaun and I found ourselves +together. By the lightning flashes I saw him from time to time; on one +occasion he suddenly disappeared from view, and on joining him cautiously +a little while after I found that he had just previously seated himself +abruptly on a flat rock, immediately underneath a miniature torrent. The +fact that we did not at every ten seconds run against large trees +confirmed the idea that we were now almost out of the wood; accordingly we +halloaed, as the occasion seemed suitable, but no answer was returned from +our companions. Now came the question of how we were to cross the torrent +which we knew lay between us and the hotel. Jaun cheerfully remarked that +the best plan would be to find the bridge. This was obvious enough, but he +confessed that he had forgotten at what part of the river's course the +bridge lay. However, keeping close together, we made towards the right, on +which side the stream lay. The slopes were here more level and less +carelessly laid out. Our hopes revived, for the hotel could only be a few +minutes off, and between the peals of thunder we could hear the roar of +the torrent and could hear also the hollow sound due to the boulders +rolling over its stony bed. Of a sudden we came on to its banks, and +formidable enough the stream looked. The idea of searching for the bridge +seemed childish, for the whole of the frail wooden structure had probably +been carried away long before down to the Rhone valley. The hotel was only +a few yards off, and again the situation was exasperating enough to +justify a resort to extreme measures, if it were an extreme measure to +express forcibly a wish that the torrent might be--well, temporarily +stopped up at some higher point. Jaun now volunteered to wade across. It +was quite unnecessary for him to divest himself of any clothing for the +purpose, and in fact when he had succeeded very pluckily in reaching the +other side he was not in the least degree wetter than when he started. He +shouted some observations from the other side, which I took to mean that +he would go on to the hotel and procure a lantern. Accordingly I seated +myself to await his return, selecting unintentionally a little pool of +water, which however did just as well as anything else. + +(M58) + +Before long a flashing light advancing indicated that Jaun had been +successful, and two forms were seen dimly on the opposite side, one with a +light. The bearer of the lantern was an aged person in shirt sleeves and a +highly excited frame of mind. The aged person, on the distant shore, +gesticulated as violently as a marionette doll when its wires have got +hitched up wrong, and then, seemingly possessed of a sudden fury, rushed +violently down a steep place and beckoned frantically with his lantern. +This seemed to mean that I was to descend to a point on the bank opposite +to where he stood. It now appeared that there was a bridge within a few +yards of us, if a single spiky, submerged, and insecure trunk could be +considered such. The old man embraced me warmly when I had made my way +across, slapped me hard on the back, and then laughed very loud and +suddenly. Then he darted off with the agility and abruptness of movement +of an elderly lady from the country crossing in front of an omnibus, or a +hen, a foolish animal that always waits to the last moment before running +needlessly to the wrong side of the road. Guided by the lantern which the +impulsive veteran flourished wildly in every direction, so that no one +dared approach him, in another ten minutes we reached the hotel and found +ourselves, with the exception of our companions, who had arrived a few +minutes before--Heaven only knows how, for they did not--fortunately the +only occupants of the hotel. The volatile sexagenarian calmed down, put on +his coat, put out his lantern, and retired to repose in an outhouse, a +shelter to which I fancy he was relegated owing to certain physical +infirmities. + +(M59) + +It was eleven o'clock, and we had been pretty actively employed for +twenty-one hours. The idea of food and a change of raiment was not, +therefore, distasteful. A middle-aged female with an excessively +"rational" and hygienic waist, who said she was the waitress, volunteered +to serve the banquet, but the change of raiment necessary was naturally +beyond her means, while the idea of borrowing from the aged person's +wardrobe did not commend itself to us, so we ordered in a large stock of +towels. "But," I remarked, "you can't go about in a bath towel"--the truth +of which assertion was immediately evident, for they were so small that it +was difficult to fasten them with any degree of security; accordingly +blankets were requisitioned, and a very classical effect in costume was +thus produced, though what the Romans did when there was a gale of wind I +do not know. To keep up the delusion we arranged the chairs after the +fashion of couches, and appeased our hunger with a curious repast of +stewed apples and mixed biscuits, the sole articles of food that could be +discovered. However, to anticipate, we fared better the next day at +breakfast; for though Bright Chanticleer proclaimed the morn at 3 A.M. he +did not proclaim any subsequent period of time, as he was captured and +cooked for our repast. The waitress while we supped was busily engaged in +stoking up the stove, and seized upon our damp raiment with avidity to +have it ready for the next morning; so energetic was she in fact that we +felt it necessary to remonstrate, foreseeing the probability that our +clothes might have to be brought back to us in a dust shovel: we remarked +that, though sorry for our misdeeds, we would limit for choice the +repentant nature of our apparel to the sackcloth we were then wearing and +would dispense with the adjunct of ashes. The unreliable nature of the +fastenings of our costume prevented us from accompanying our forcible +remarks with properly impressive gestures. The remonstrance, however, had +the desired effect, and our garments the next day, though somewhat +shrivelled and inconveniently tight here and there, still proved that they +had resisted effectively the fire as well as the water. + +(M60) + +The amount of luxury found in the Ltschthal since those days has +materially improved. Time was when the only accommodation for the +traveller was to be found at the humble tenement of Mons. le Cur, a +worthy old creature as I remember him, who appeared to keep an apiary in +his back drawing-room and was wont to produce the most excellent honey and +the most uncompromising bread; the latter article, as one might judge, was +baked about as often as the old gentleman washed himself. But the milk of +human kindness flowed strongly in him (as it may be said to do in those +who have been made the subjects of transfusion), though, to tell the +truth, it was somewhat decidedly flavoured with garlic, and it needed much +resolution to attentively listen to the confidential communications he was +in the habit of whispering. A man of education and gentle refinement--at +any rate of mind--his was a hard lot, buried away in a squalid little +parish, with no earthly being to talk to possessed of more than one idea; +yet he slaved on contentedly enough with no thought beyond the peasants in +his own district and of how he might relieve their condition, too often at +the expense of his own welfare; isolated more than any ascetic, for his +mental existence was that of a hermit, from circumstances and not from +will. The thought of solitary confinement is terrible, but utter mental +isolation is hideous. Yet, while he entertained us hospitably with fare +which, though rough, was the very best he could offer, he would not join +in the repast: not, probably, from lack of appetite, but from a feeling +that, owing to prolonged seclusion and association with the peasants, the +more fashionable and accepted methods of preparing food for consumption +and conveying it to the mouth, with subsequent details, were somewhat dim +to his recollection. Yet his conversation flowed fast and he talked well: +the while any reference to friends and fellow-travellers would cause him +to pause for a moment or two, look upwards around the room, and fetch a +rather long breath before he recommenced. A curiously gaunt old creature +he seemed at first sight: with wonderful, bony, plastic hands capable of +expressing anything; grotesque almost in his unkempt rustiness; provoking +a smile at first, but sadness as one learnt more of him. And how closely +are the two emotions associated. In truth Humour was born a twin, and her +sister was christened Pathos. + +I can recall that he accepted a sum of ten francs when we parted in the +morning. His eyes glistened with pleasure as he took the coin and +straightway made for a ramshackle hovel on the hill-side, where lay an +aged person "trs-malade." Possibly after his visit there was left a happy +peasant in that tumble-down cabin--an emotional object more often described +than witnessed. But all this took place years ago, and as we passed the +collection of dilapidated tenements in one of which our old friend once +lived, I failed to recognise his former dwelling-place. The timbers grew +old and worn, the bands rusty, and one day the wheel which had worked +steadily for so long stopped. Yet the stream which had moved it ran on as +if nothing had happened. Was it a wasted life? Who can say if there be +such a thing? + + A few can touch the magic string, + And noisy Fame is proud to win them: + Alas! for those that never sing, + But die with all their music in them. + +We passed on: in a few minutes the houses were lost to view and there was +left but the reflection of how much more, worthy of study, there was in +this old cur's nature than in the majority of Swiss with whom +mountaineering brings us in close contact. + +(M61) + +As we descended the Ltschthal to Gampel the air seemed to thicken. The +excessive warmth allowed our garments to stretch once again to their +wonted girth, and we became less thoughtful. The vignette of the ancient +cur dissolved away and was replaced by a view (mental only, unhappily) of +our aiguille at Chamouni, black and bare of snow, inviting another attack. +Gampel does not tempt the traveller much to seek repose, and we therefore +caught the first train that came crawling along the valley and shaped our +course for Chamouni in a second-class carriage tenanted by a _pension_ of +young ladies out for a holiday apparently, who all chirped and twittered +and wrangled for the best places till the going down of the sun, like the +Temple sparrows. + + + + + + CHAPTER V. + + + AN OLD FRIEND WITH A NEW FACE + + + Chamouni again--The hotel _clientle_--A youthful hero--The + inevitable English family--A scientific gentleman--A dream of the + future--The hereafter of the Alps and of Alpine literature--A + condensed mountain ascent--Wanted, a programme--A double "Brocken"--A + hill-side phenomenon and a familiar character--A strong + argument--Halting doubts and fears--A digression on mountaineering + accidents--"From gay to grave, from lively to severe"--The storm + breaks--A battle with the elements--Beating the air--The ridge + carried by assault--What next, and next?--A topographical problem + and a cool proposal--The descent down the Valle Blanche--The old + Montanvert hotel--The Montanvert path and its frequenters. + + +It was the summer of 18-- and our old quarters at Couttet's hotel knew us +once more. As we drove into the village of Chamouni we turned our heads +carelessly around to note the various new hotels that might have arisen +since our last visit. Observing that they were four or five in number, we +rightly conjectured that we should find all the hotel keepers complaining +bitterly of the hard times and the want of custom. Also we wondered in how +many ways it was possible to build a house without any particular system +of drainage, a deficiency which was at that time becoming very marked in +Chamouni, but has since, I believe, been improved. Yet the place itself +had not altered essentially. New buildings of imposing exterior and little +else do not materially alter a place that leads a life like that of modern +Chamouni. The population, which throughout the summer appears to pass its +time in the streets with its hands in its pockets, was still amusing +itself in the same way. The tone of the village was just the same as we +had always known it, and even M. Couttet himself had not succeeded in +imparting any marine flavour by building an odd little lighthouse with an +iron flag on the top which the architect had ingeniously represented as +streaming permanently in a direction indicating a wind favourable for fine +weather. We knew that we should find the same denizens in the hotel; and +they were there. + +(M62) + +There was a very young man with a very parti-coloured face from exposure +on the glaciers, who had recently completed the thousand-and-first ascent +of Mont Blanc and was perpetually posing gracefully against the door-post +or in a lattice-work summer-house a few steps from the hotel, gazing +towards the mountain and rather eagerly joining in any conversation +relating to the perils of the ascent. There were three or four young +ladies of various periods of life who gazed at him with admiration and +enquired at intervals if he wasn't very tired; to which the young man +replied carelessly that he was not, and inwardly thought that the +discomfort of sunburn and the consequent desquamation was on the whole +cheaply bought, the while he wished the expedition had not cost so much +and that so many others had not thought of making the same ascent. And +then there came a lithe, active lady walker who had been up Mont Blanc and +a great many other mountains too, and paid no more attention to the +guides' stereotyped compliments than a suspicious dog does to those of a +nervous visitor: so the young man's nose was put out of joint and he would +have laughed scornfully at the fickleness of hero worship had not the skin +of his face been in danger of cracking, and he wished his shirt collar had +not been starched and thumped by the village washerwoman into the form of +a circular linen saw. + +(M63) + +Then there was an excitable Englishman of impulsive habits, with a large +family who were perpetually playing a game of follow-my-leader with their +parent, and who were under orders to weigh anchor on the following morning +at five o'clock for the Montanvert and the Mauvais Pas. The boys were +stoking up for the occasion with raw apples, and the girls were occupied, +when not pursuing their restless father, in preparing a puggaree for his +hat. There was a gentleman who affected the curious untidiness of raiment +not unfrequently noticed among Sunday frequenters of the Thames, and who +sought to establish a mountaineering reputation by constantly gazing at +the peaks around in a knowing manner and wearing a flannel shirt of an +obtrusive pattern destitute of any collar. There were guides about, who +were on the point of being paid for their services and who were +exceedingly polite and obsequious; others whose "tour" had just passed, +were, proportionately, less deferential. There was an elderly lady whose +whole soul appeared bent on a little stocking from which she never parted, +and who turned the knitting needles to more account for toilet and other +small purposes than I could have conceived to be possible. There were two +or three mountaineers who appeared anxious only to avoid everyone's gaze +and who might be seen in byways and odd corners talking to bronzed guides +who looked like business. Finally, there was a gentleman of statistical +and scientific tendencies, much given to making quietly astonishing +statements of astronomical facts and gently smiling as he rolled over his +tongue and enjoyed the flavour of the vast numbers with which it was his +pleasure to deal. He absolutely revelled and wallowed in figures. +Buttonholed in a corner and compelled to listen with deferential +attention, I secretly writhed as he crushed me slowly with the mere weight +of his numerals. He shared with others of his frame of mind the +peculiarity of always keeping something in hand and skilfully working up +to a climax. Such and such a star was so many millions of miles off. We +opened our eyes to the proper degree of width and observed, "Bless me!" +or, "You don't say so?" Instantly he would rejoin, "Ah, but that's nothing +to so and so," and then favoured us with a still more immeasurable +distance. We expressed a slightly greater degree of intelligent amazement. +Thereupon he nodded his head, gently inclined it a little to one side, and +smiled softly. It gave him such evident pleasure to have a listener that I +attended with due reverence to his enthusiastic computations; knowing my +man, I felt sure that he was keeping back a real staggerer to finish up +with, and was prepared to assume varying degrees of surprise up to the +moment when it should come. Unfortunately I misjudged its advent, and +feeling that I had somewhat lost in his estimation by evincing undue +astonishment at a comparatively small array of figures, I sought to turn +the conversation by requesting to know how long he thought it might be +before the great rock peaks around us would have crumbled away to their +bases. The calculation was too trivial and the number of millions of +generations too small to interest him much, but he vouchsafed an +approximate estimate. + +(M64) + +I let him babble on and fell a-thinking. The peaks were crumbling away bit +by bit no doubt, the glaciers shrinking. At a bound the mind leapt into a +future which, after all, might be not so very unlike a past. The Alps +things of the past! What, I wondered, when the mountains were all levelled +down and smiling valleys occupied the troughs of the glaciers of to-day, +would some future commentators make of the literature so industriously +piled up by the members and followers of the Alpine Club? Imagination ran +riot as in a dream, and I fancied some enthusiast exploring the buried +city of the second Babylon and excavating the ruins of the "finest site in +Europe." I pictured to myself the surprise in store for him on digging out +the effigies of some of our naval and military heroes, and the mingled +feelings with which he would contemplate the unearthed statue of George +IV. It seemed possible that in that far-off epoch to which my friend's +calculations had borne me, the Alpine Club itself might have ceased to +exist. Pursuing his explorations in an easterly direction, the excavator +might perchance have lighted on a strange tunnel, almost Arcadian in its +simplicity of design, and marvelled at the curious and cheap idols of wax +and wood which the people of that ancient day had evidently worshipped. +Turning north again, this Schliemann of the future would pass by the ruins +of S. Martin's Church, eager to light upon the precious archives of the +historic Alpine Club itself. How eagerly he would peruse the lore +contained in the Club library, anxious to decipher the inscriptions and +discover what manner of men they were who lived and climbed when mountains +and glaciers were still to be found on this planet. Human nature would +probably not have changed much, and the successful explorer might even +have been asked to favour a scientific society of the future with the +result of his discoveries, to which in all probability he would have +acceded, with a degree of reluctance not quite sufficient to deter the +secretary of the society from pressing him. + +(M65) + +An abstract of his description of our sibylline leaves I fancied might run +somewhat in this style:--After commenting on the fact that the maps and +illustrations did not usually correspond in number with the list set forth +in the index of the volumes unearthed, he might proceed thus:--"In pursuit +of their great and glorious object these ancient heroes appear to have +undergone vast personal discomfort. It is difficult therefore to realise +fully why so many engaged in this form of exploration. Instances have been +given by other learned antiquarians who have studied the habits of this +people, of a similar purposeless disregard of comfort, such as the +four-wheeled wooden boxes in which they travelled about, the seats in +their churches, &c. The outset of their expedition was almost invariably +characterised by a display of bad temper, attributed to early rising. +After a varying number of hours of excessive toil the travellers were wont +to arrive at some fearsome chasm spoken of as a 'bergschrund.' On this, if +the subject-matter of their narrative was insufficient in quantity, they +were wont to descant and enlarge at length; sometimes, as we judge, in +their descriptions they enlarged the bergschrund itself. They then crossed +it. Immediately after this incident they were in the habit of eating, and +the minute and instructive details commonly given enable us to form a +tolerably accurate opinion as to the nature of the diet with which they +supported their exhausted frames. Next they traversed strange localities +for which there appear to have been no adequately descriptive expressions +in their own language. In fact the difficulty of deciphering these records +is greatly increased by the fact that the writers were versatile +linguists, for they constantly make use of words of a hybrid character. +They were evidently practised meteorologists and took much interest in +this subject, as may be gathered throughout from their writings. At length +they reached summits, of the nature of which we in our time can have but a +feeble conception. So great was their relief at the termination of their +self-imposed but toilsome task, that they habitually burst forth into +language characterised by a wealth of imagery and a fervour of poetic +description which unfortunately conveys but little idea to us in our day +of what they actually saw. In descending they were all commonly within an +ace of meeting with a violent death. The mode in which the danger attacked +them varied within certain restricted limits, but it always occurred and +the escape was always narrow. The peril over, they remarked that they +breathed freely again, and then at once fell to eating. Arrived at a +successful termination of their wearisome labour, they advised others to +do the same. They dealt out unsparing satire to their companions, +unlimited praise to their guides, and unmeasured ridicule to their porter. +They commonly expressed throughout their descriptions grave doubts and +uncertainty as to the issue of the expedition: a curious and noteworthy +fact, for the heading of the accounts always divulged at the outset their +ultimate success. The construction, therefore, of their narratives was in +accordance with a well-recognised model and appeared capable of little +variation. The only other facts that we can glean are that they were +prodigious eaters, were much pestered by some extinct species of insects, +and that they make frequent allusions to a substance termed tobacco. The +constant repetition of these incidents stamps upon their writings the +impress of unexaggerated veracity. Still they were not universally held in +favour, indeed were regarded with disapprobation by some individuals of +their own race. It would seem indeed from internal evidence that, had it +not been for frequent and sharp criticism of their proceedings, their +pastime might never have inveigled so many persons with its seductive +fascination." + +Now at the time at which these prophetic fancies were conjured up we had +just completed an expedition which it seemed might be worthy of attention, +solely on the ground of its very contradictoriness. For the features of +this climb were most opposed to those already mentioned, and in fact +mention of it scarcely seemed admissible in an Alpine narrative. We took +no porter with us to fill the rle of first low comedy man. We had very +little to eat; our stock of wine ran out through a leaky gourd; our +tobacco was wet and there was no bergschrund, and yet all this happened on +a mountain close to Chamouni. + +(M66) + +"Some vast amount of years ago, ere all my youth had vanished from me," as +the poet says, at a date therefore which for obvious reasons it is +inexpedient here to mention, I found myself, as already mentioned, at +Chamouni. With me was an old mountain friend and fellow climber, J. Oakley +Maund. We were both burning with desire to add to the list of the many +successful expeditions we had made together, but, as a matter of fact, +were somewhat gravelled for lack of suitable matter. Like a ministry on +the eve of a general election or a gentleman without a sixpenny-piece at a +theatre, we were sorely in need of a programme. The locality was somewhat +unfortunately chosen for those in whom the ancient spirit was not yet +quite extinct and who wanted to do something new. Ever since the days when +Jacques Balmat, Dr. Paccard, and the great De Saussure had donned strange +apparel and shown the way--that is to say, for nearly a hundred +years--people had been climbing mountains in the district, and it was not +to be wondered at if it were hard to find some expedition which nobody +else had thought of, or, worse still, had achieved. We gazed at the map +and made thumb marks all over it. In every conceivable direction ran +little lines indicative of previous explorations. We studied the _carte en +relief_, but without much hope of getting any information of value from +this inaccurate and lumpy absurdity. Mont Blanc, which, according to this +work of plastic art, was modelled out as some eight or ten thousand feet +higher than any other point of the chain, had had all the snow worn off +its summit by much fingering, so that the component pasteboard showed +through. Rivers ran uphill in this map, and lakes were inclined at an +angle; bits of sticking plaister represented towns and villages, and the +whole article was absolutely bristling with little spikes and points like +the old panoramas of London or the docks at Liverpool. Still a +considerable number of people seemed willing enough to pay fifty centimes +for the pleasure of indicating elaborate expeditions on it with their +fore-fingers, and appeared to derive pleasure from gazing on a pasteboard +misrepresentation when they could by looking out of window see the real +thing for nothing. We abandoned the _carte en relief_ and took Jaun and +Kaspar Maurer into our confidence. The only suggestions that they could +make were the Aiguille des Charmoz and the Dent du Gant. The former of +these two peaks we had both tried to ascend in former seasons, without +success. Jaun did not think then that it was possible, and without sharing +his opinion we gave way to it. With regard to the latter mountain we all +thought at the time that an undue amount of what is vaguely termed +"artificial aid" would be necessary to ensure success, an opinion +confirmed by subsequent events, for when Signor Sella achieved the honour +of the first ascent he was only able to accomplish it by somewhat +elaborate engineering appliances. Some bold person of an original turn of +thought suggested of course a variation of some way up Mont Blanc, but the +utter impossibility of discovering the slightest deviation from any +previously ascended route and the utter uselessness of trying to find one +caused a general shout of derision, and the bold person thereupon withdrew +his suggestion and ordered some coffee. Besides, the weather was fine; +every day swarms of tourists could be seen, crawling up the sides of the +monarch of mountains, in numbers as many as the flies on a sugar loaf in a +grocer's window on a hot day. + +One evening we sat in front of Couttet's hotel staring pensively at the +familiar outline of the row of aiguilles, and wishing we had lived in the +days of Albert Smith, the best friend Chamouni ever had. At any rate, at +that time the natives were unsophisticated and the mountains about were +not all done to death. The valley between us and the chain was filled with +a light haze, not sufficient to conceal the outline of the mountains but +yet enough to blot out their detail and solidity. As the moon rose behind +the chain we saw a strange phenomenon. A silhouette was thrown forwards on +to the curtain of haze and photographed on it with sharp and clear +definition, so that we could recognise, at an immense height, the shadowed +peaks looking almost as massive as the actual mountains. Nor was this all; +a second curtain of mist seemed to be suspended, in a vertical stratum, in +front of the former one, and the shadows were again marked out on this, +infinitely more magnified and less distinct, but still perfectly +recognisable. As a result we were able to see the semblance of three +distinct tiers of mountains one above the other, looking so massive that +we could scarcely realise that they were but transparent ghosts of the +peaks; and the phenomenon, a double "Brocken," must have lasted for more +than half an hour. However, we desired something more of the nature of the +substance than the shadow, and ultimately came to the conclusion that it +was absolutely necessary for our peace of mind to accomplish something on +the morrow, and as it really mattered but little what that something might +be, provided a good climb was afforded, we must yield to circumstances and +perforce adopt the latter-day necessity of all mountaineers. If we could +not find the right way up some new mountain we could at least take the +wrong way up an old one. + +(M67) + +So the next morning we walked up to the Pierre Pointue as a preliminary +step--a good many and rather arduous steps--towards the object in view. The +exertion of toiling up the zigzags or the more rarefied atmosphere had a +remarkable effect on one of the party, whose face when we reached the +chalet was found to be wreathed in smiles and wearing an expression of +great intelligence. He had in fact become possessed of an idea. Bubbling +over with self-satisfied chuckles, he suggested that we should ascend the +Aiguille du Midi by the face directly in front of us and then descend on +the other side, thus making a col of the mountain. The idea found favour +instantly, and the intelligent person was so much pleased that he ordered +a bottle of wine, plastered over with a very costly variety of label, and +regretted it. Investigation of the cellar revealed only two casks of wine, +but the "carte" comprised a long list of various vintages. Fired with +enthusiasm and inflated with _limonade gazeuse_, we left the chalet and +strode vigorously up the hill in order to prospect the route and +reconnoitre the rocks. The exertion and the pace soon told upon us, the +sooner that it was a hot, enervating day; the kind of day that makes one +perforce admire the ingenious benevolence of nature in fashioning out on +the grassy slopes rounded inequalities, exactly adapted to those of the +human figure in a seated or recumbent position. The heated air rising from +the ground gave flickering and distorted views of distant objects, like +unto marine phenomena viewed through the cheap panes of a seaside +lodging-house window. The grasshoppers were extraordinarily busy; the bees +droned through the heavy air; the ants, overcome apparently by the +temperature, had given up for the time straining their jaws by their +foolish practice of carrying large parcels about without any definite +object, and had retired to the shady seclusion of their own heaped-up +residences; the turf was most inviting. It now occurred to us that there +was no absolute necessity for the whole party to ascend on the present +occasion, and that perhaps the guides might go up quicker alone. The +details of this suggestion were acceded to on the part of the amateurs of +the party with astonishing alacrity and unanimity. We laid the scheme +before the guides, and they also thought it a very fine one. Thereupon, +with much parade and ceremony, they braced themselves up for great +exertion, borrowed the telescope, remarked that they expected to be back +some time during the night, and started upwards with somewhat over-acted +eagerness. My companion and I disposed ourselves comfortably in the shade, +and resumed an argument which had originally commenced some days +previously. I waxed eloquent on the subject under discussion and with much +success, for such was the force of my logic and the cogency of my +reasoning that I bore down on my opponent, and reduced him in a short time +to absolute silence, from which he did not awake for nearly two hours. + +(M68) + +About this time the guides, who in all probability had also been +comfortably asleep within a short distance of us, returned and gave a +favourable report concerning the mountain. Elated by this news, we climbed +a short distance further up, and met there a large party of ephemeral +acquaintances who were taking an afternoon's pleasure on the hills. After +the manner of people when so engaged, they set forth with great energy and +climbed up a steep little rock tump a few hundred yards distant. Arrived +at the summit, they roared out unintelligible remarks to us, and we did +the same to them till we were hoarse; we waved our hands and hats and they +flourished their handkerchiefs as if they were our dearest friends on +earth, just setting out on an emigrant ship for the Antipodes. The party +then descended; the nearer they came the less friendly and demonstrative +were we, and by the time we met the warmth of affection recently +manifested on both sides had wholly evaporated, and we conversed in +ordinary tones on indifferent topics. Then they set out for another little +hill, and we were moved, apparently by some uncontrollable impulse, to go +through the same idiotic performance. Emotional behaviour of a similar +kind is not infrequently observed in the mountains. We journeyed together +back to the Pierre Pointue, viewing each other with distrust and +suspicion; and when it was found that we had bespoken the beds--if the +exaggerated packing-cases lined with straw bags could be considered +such--we parted on terms the reverse of friendly. So frail are the links +that bind human affections. + +(M69) + +Standing in front of the hut was a type of character very familiar in +these tourist-frequented districts. His exterior was unpromising; his +beard of a fortnight's growth, or thereabouts, somewhat fitful withal and +lacking in uniformity of development. A hard hat, with a shining green +veil folded around its battered outline, decorated his head; his raiment +was black and rusty, his legs cased in canvas gaiters fastened with many +little girths and buckles, and in his right hand he grasped a trusty +three-franc pole made of wainy deal, and surmounted at the top by a brown +knob similar to those which come out suddenly when we try to open a chest +of drawers in a cheap lodging. He fidgeted about for a while, asked +questions in a rather loud tone of voice at us, and we felt that it was +his intention to enter into conversation. It was even so. After a while he +sidled up and requested with much diffidence to be informed what we +proposed to climb on the morrow. Now the true mountaineer, however amiable +his disposition, always shrinks up into his shell when such a question is +put to him on the eve of an expedition. My companion indicated by a sweep +of the arm a space of territory extending about from the Mont Buet on the +one side round to the Aiguille de Gout on the other. Our friend surveyed +from end to end the extensive panorama suggested, then looked seriously at +us and observed that we should probably find it a fine walk. We expressed +gravely the opinion that he was quite right, and then went in to dinner, +while our composite friend expatiated on the project to his companions as +an expedition but little out of the ordinary run, and one that he was +perfectly prepared to undertake himself if so disposed; then he resumed +his contemplation of a rock some ninety feet or so in height jutting out +through the glacier above, which he was under the impression was a lady +descending from Mont Blanc. We did not learn his name, but the individual +may, nevertheless, possibly be recognised. Some points of the argument +were still unsettled when we climbed over the edges of our respective +boxes and vanished into the strawy depths below. The clear moonlight +streamed in through the window and prevented sleep; so I lay in my wooden +box thinking over the recent discussion, but with such a distinct +intention--like little Paul Dombey with Mrs. Pipchin--of fixing my companion +presently, that even that hardy old mountaineer deemed it prudent to +counterfeit slumber. + +In the small hours of the morning we got under weigh. For some time we had +been leading a life of sloth in Chamouni, and the delight of finding +ourselves once more on the mountain path, and making for a rock climb, +entirely precluded that fractiousness which, as all readers of Alpine +literature know, ought properly to be described at this period of an +expedition. The path was irregular and demanded some equanimity, for the +stumbling-blocks were innumerable and artfully placed to trip up the +unwary in an aggravating manner. Feeling it unfair that all the work +should be thrown on the guides, I had volunteered, rather magnanimously, +to bear part of the burden, and selected the lantern as my share. By this +means it was not only possible to walk in comfort over a well-lighted +track, but the bearer was enabled also to regulate the pace to a speed +convenient to his own feelings. Before long, however, we reached the lower +snow patches of the Glacier des Plrins, and the light was no longer +necessary. + +(M70) + +We made straight across the crisp snow to the base of a promising-looking +rock buttress lying to the right of the snow gully that runs up the side +of the mountain, feeling sure that either by the rocks or the snow a way +up could be found. And now I am painfully conscious of a glaring defect in +this Alpine narrative. A mountain ascent without a bergschrund is as tame +as a steeplechase without a water jump, but candour compels the admission +that no bergschrund was visible. Either we had hit on a spot where the +orthodox chasm was filled up for the time, or else this particular glacier +was an exception to all others previously treated of in mountain +literature. In a few seconds we found ourselves on the rocks, delighted to +exchange the monotonous mode of progression compulsory on snow for the +varied gymnastic exercises demanded on rocks. The sun had risen, the axes +clanked merrily against the stones, the snow was in good condition for +walking, everything seemed favourable, and we gazed down complacently on +the distance already traversed. Above us the mountain was broken up and +easy, and we climbed on rapidly, each in the fashion that seemed best to +him. So good was our progress at first, that we were already far up the +buttress, and could barely see our morning's tracks in the snow beneath, +when a halt was called for breakfast, and we had time to look around. Now, +however unconventional this expedition may have been in many respects, the +sagacious student of Alpine literature will know that it must be wholly +impossible to omit all reference to the weather. As soon might one expect +two prosaic persons of slight acquaintanceship to abjure the topic at a +chance meeting. The western sky wore a rather ominous look of half +mourning, and heavy grey and black clouds were whirling about and forming +up in close order in a manner suggestive of rising wind. Even at this +stage of the proceedings the thought crossed our minds that the storm +which was evidently brewing might possibly overtake us, and that perhaps +we ought at once to turn back. + +(M71) + +One thing was evident; that we must decide quickly, whatever we did. We +determined to push on for a while, and with that intent girded ourselves +with the rope and worked our way on to the top of the first buttress. At +this point, further progress directly upwards was impossible, and we were +compelled to cross the gully and make for the rock on the left-hand side. +Considerable care is always necessary in crossing, horizontally, a gully +filled with snow, where the rope is rather a source of danger than of +security. We had to give all our attention to the passage, and when we +reached the rocks opposite, the climbing, though not formidable, was still +sufficiently difficult to occupy all our thoughts for the moment, and we +had but little leisure, and perhaps but little inclination, for +meteorological observations. At the top of the rocks a promising snow +slope, stretching upwards with gentle curves and sweeps, seemed to offer a +fair prospect of rapid progress. Such snow slopes are at all times a +little deceptive. Even when the climber is close to them they look +oftentimes much easier than they immediately after prove to be. From a +distance, say from under the verandah of a comfortable hotel, when the +climber _in posse_ indicates the way he would pursue with the end of his +cigar, they are absurdly easy. So, too, are obstacles in the +hunting-field, such as stiff hedges and uncompromising gates, easy enough +when the Nimrod studies them as he whirls along in an express train. +Subsequently, when immediately associated with a horse, these same +obstacles assume a different guise. Then are the sentiments of the hunter +prone to become modified, and compassion for dumb beasts becomes more +prominent in the thoughtful votary of the chase, till finally it may be +observed that the little wits jump sometimes more than the great ones. +Even so does the mountaineer often discover, on a nearer acquaintance that +the snow incline up which he proposed to stride merrily is inclined at a +highly inconvenient angle. However, at the commencement of our slope we +found the snow in good condition, and advanced quickly for some little +distance, but before we had got very far it was necessary to resort to the +axe, and we had then ample opportunities of looking round. The clouds were +lowering more and more, but as they were swept up by a sou'westerly wind, +the intervening mass of the mountain prevented us from seeing thoroughly +what might be in store for us. The wind, too, was growing stronger every +minute, and my companion, who was still pursuing his argument, and, as it +appeared subsequently, making some rather good points, had to exert +himself considerably in order to make his voice heard. + +Presently we halted for a few minutes on some spiky little rocks, and +again looked about. The weather prospects were just in that doubtful state +that prompts every member of the party to ask the others what they think. +Maurer looked exceedingly vacant and made no remark. Jaun put a bit of +snow in his mouth, but declined to give an opinion. We, not to be outdone, +assumed very profound expressions, as if prepared to find ourselves in the +right whatever happened, but, following the example of Lord Burleigh in +the famous tragedy, we said nothing either. At last, some one suggested +that we might go on for a little, and then see. Accordingly we went on for +a little, but then as a matter of fact the mists swept up around us and we +did not see anything at all. It was, no doubt, inconvenient that we were +unable to penetrate with our gaze to the regions above, but still we felt +that there was one slight counterbalancing advantage, for there was +present the haunting consciousness that the gigantic telescope of Chamouni +was pointed in our direction, and at least the enveloping mist ensured +that privacy which is not always accorded to climbers pursuing their +pastime within range of these instruments of science. + +(M72) + +In the hope that the condition of the upper snow might be good, and +perhaps rather mistaken in the height we had already reached, we made up +our minds to push on, with the view of reaching at any rate the top of the +ridge before the storm broke. Every now and again a rent in the clouds +above, lasting for a few seconds, showed us that the wind was blowing with +great force, as thin clouds of loose snow were swept up and whirled along +the face in curling wreaths. The spectacle might not, at first sight, have +been thought highly diverting: yet as we pointed upwards to the ridge and +watched the racing snow-drifts driving over the slopes we were making for, +we all laughed very heartily. So universal is the tendency to be amused at +the sight of discomfort that it even extends to the contemplation of its +occurring shortly to oneself. In the paulo-post-future the experience is +exhilarating: in the actual present it is less laughter-moving. Laughter +in the presence of events that are, in the true sense of the word, +sensational, comes almost as a reflex action (to borrow an expression from +the physiologists), and the sympathetic distress that follows takes an +appreciable time to develop. I can recall once being a witness with some +others of a ghastly accident by which several people were precipitated, +together with a mass of broken timbers and dbris of all sorts, from a +great height. A door was burst open and the ruin met our eyes suddenly. To +this day I can remember sounds of laughter at the first view--hysterical if +you like to call it so, and not mirthful, but still laughter. In a few +seconds the realisation of what had happened came, and then came the +distress and with it expressions of horror, as all worked manfully to help +and rescue the sufferers. The sequence of emotions was perfectly natural, +and only they who have never passed through such an experience would speak +of inhumanity. There is no want of humanity in the matter. The suddenness +of the impression begets the train of emotions, and the brain grasps the +facts but slowly. To take another instance: I have been told by a man +whose quickness and presence of mind were remarkable--a man who as a +schoolboy won a Royal Humane Society's medal--that on one occasion he +witnessed a friend fall over a staircase from a great height. The accident +was in the highest degree unexpected: and the witness walked leisurely on +as if nothing had happened. But in a few seconds came like a severe blow +the sudden realisation of what had taken place. Thought is not always +quick. We can no more exert our minds to their fullest capacity on a +sudden than we can put forth our utmost physical strength on a sudden. +Action when almost instantaneous is independent of the higher mental +faculties, and is but a reflex. The experience of those who have been in +railway accidents will be of the same nature. In climbing up a very steep +or difficult place if a man falls all are prepared more or less for such +an accident. The whole attention is given to guarding against a probable +contingency, and it follows that the mind can instantly realise its +occurrence. And that such is the case I have been unlucky enough to +witness, though most fortunately the fall was attended with no serious +consequences. On the same principle, to take a more trivial example, on +difficult rocks it is the rarest possible accident for a man to sprain his +ankle or knee. The muscles are always prepared for a possible slip and +kept in tension on the alert. On the loose moraine, when walking leisurely +or carelessly, such an accident is a thousand times more likely to occur. + +(M73) + +Our leader worked away with a will, but the snow got harder at every step. +The growing force of the wind, which in nautical language had increased +from that vague degree known as a capful to the indefinite force of a +stiff breeze, and the increasing steepness of the slope, compelled Jaun to +make the steps larger and larger as we ascended. It soon became evident +that the storm would overtake us long before we could hope to get on to +the ridge, and that we had deliberately walked into something of a trap. +The steps had been cut so far apart that to descend by the same line would +have involved the construction of a fresh staircase, and on actually +turning, we found that what was a stiff breeze behind us was a half gale +when it met our faces. It was certainly easier to go on than to go back; +so we went further and fared much worse. The slope became steeper, the ice +harder, the half gale became a whole gale, and the delay between each step +seemed interminable. Suddenly, as we passed from under the lee of a +projecting slope on our right, a tremendous gust of wind, which seemed to +have waited for a few moments in order to collect its full forces, swept +suddenly down and almost tore us from our foothold. With that a torrent of +hail fell, and for a few moments we had enough to do to hold on where we +stood. Even my companion's conversation slackened. He had astutely +selected a place in the caravan immediately behind me, and as the gale was +blowing directly on our backs was enabled to fire off his remarks and +arguments without any possibility of response. Anything that I said in +answer was audible only to our leader, who took not the smallest interest +in the discussion. Unfortunately, too, it was difficult to listen with any +attention; for as the gusts came on we were forced to swing all our faces +round like chimney cowls instantly in the same direction. The squalls +became more frequent and more violent, the thunder and lightning played +around merrily, and as the wind howled by we had to throw ourselves flat +against the slope, adopting the undignified attitudes of a deer-stalker +nearing the brow of a Scotch hill--attitudes which bring somewhat unduly +into prominence the inadequate nature of the national costume. +Fortunately, as has been said, we were screened from view; and our poses, +though possibly ungraceful, were at any rate uncriticised. The big +hailstones, falling softly around, filled up the steps as they were made, +and our feet were buried up to the ankles in a moment. In a minute or two +the hurricane passed for the time; then we arose, shook ourselves, smiled +at nothing in particular, and the leader would find time during the +comparative lull to hack out three or four fresh steps. Certain sounds, +not accounted for by the elements, coming up from below, may have been +suggestions or may have been arguments, but they were knocked out of all +intelligible shape before they reached the head of the caravan. Not even +the porter at Lloyd's or the captain of a merchantman could have made +himself audible in that cyclone. Upwards we went, fighting for each step +and for each yard gained as hard as if we were storming a fortress. Even +while the leader had his axe in the air ready to deliver a fresh blow a +distant roar would betoken another onslaught, and we instantly fell flat +down like tin soldiers struck with the well-directed pea, and disposed +ourselves at a convenient angle of resistance; and so we went on, when we +did go on at all. If the relation is wearisome it is also realistic, for +we found that the actual experience was far from being lively; but all +things must have an end, including even the _feuilleton_ in a Parisian +newspaper or the walk up to the Bel Alp on a hot day, and the termination +came almost unexpectedly. + +(M74) + +We had got thoroughly tired of perpetually clinging on by the simple force +of adhesion to the storm-swept slope, and felt almost inclined to give up +the struggle against the elements and to go straight on trusting to +chance. Maurer, below, wore the expression of frowning discontent best +seen in amateur tenors singing a tender love ditty. Jaun had remarked +half-a-dozen times that the very next squall would infallibly sweep us all +away, and his cheerful prophetic utterances really seemed on the point of +being fulfilled, when, almost suddenly, the snow seemed to vanish from +under our feet, and we found ourselves on the summit of the ridge; at +least directly above us no more ascent appeared to present. It was +difficult to realise adequately the exact direction in which we were +facing, but I suppose that as the ridge runs about north and south by the +compass, we were facing a little south of east. This was an important +matter to decide, as the mist was gathered thick around and the idea of +descent had to be at once considered now that we had got to a position of +some degree of definiteness. At our feet the snow slope fell away in a +manner so distinct that we were without doubt really on the top of some +portion of the ridge. The difficulty was to estimate how far to our right +the summit of the Aiguille du Midi itself lay. However, we felt with +relief the truth of somebody's remark that we had at length succeeded in +getting somewhere; so far, no doubt, matters were satisfactory. Howbeit, +our pleasure was somewhat modified by the discovery that the gale blew +with considerably more force on the south-east side than it did on the one +by which we had ascended. We looked towards the south and endeavoured to +gather our wits together to elucidate the geographical problem that +presented. At the foot of the slope must lie the upper basin of the Valle +Blanche and the Glacier de Tacul; unfortunately there seemed to be a +prodigious storm going on in that basin, and clouds of loose snow were +whirling about in all directions. It was impossible to understand these +winds; one might have thought that olus had just stepped out to attend a +committee meeting of the gods, and that all his subordinates were having +high jinks during his absence. + +(M75) + +The possibility of actually completing the ascent of the mountain seemed +out of the question, and the hope that we might have crept under the +shelter of the ridge to the final little rock cone of the Aiguille was +literally thrown to the winds. Here again, therefore, this narrative is +highly unconventional, for it is impossible to consult M. Roget's +"Thesaurus" and indulge with its aid in any grandiloquent description of +the view from the summit, although my account has now reached the stage at +which such word painting ought properly to be inserted. We turned to our +right, the direction in which the peak lay, and walked some little way +along the ridge till we got under shelter of a rock; now we were able once +more to stand upright and, huddled together, took the opportunity which +had been denied to us for some hours to interchange views. All agreed that +the situation was vile; that word, at least, may be taken as the resultant +of the various forcible epithets actually employed. All agreed that the +cold was intense, the prospect doubtful, and the panorama _nil_. There was +but one redeeming feature: extreme discomfort will reveal humour in those +in whom that quality would not be expected _a priori_ to find a +dwelling-place, and to each one of us the spectacle of his three wobegone +companions seemed to afford, if not amusement, at least an inkling of +complacency. Maurer removed the pack from his shoulders, and it was then +perceived that our cup of misery was full, and our sole remaining bottle +of wine completely empty. We had originally started with two, one white +and one red, of an inferior and indigestible quality, but had left the +white wine down below on the snow; we had previously drunk it. The other +bottle had broken against some projecting rock in climbing up, and the +resulting leakage had led to the formation of a very large circular red +patch in the small of Maurer's back, wherever that anatomical region might +be situated in our squat and sturdy little guide. After muttering together +in patois for a little while the guides seized their axes and suddenly +commenced with great vigour to hack out a large hole in the ice. We fell +to also, and for some few minutes all worked away with the best of good +will; the splinters and little blocks of ice flew around under our blows, +and before long we had excavated a flat basin capable of holding water. At +the least, the exercise had the effect of warming us, and Maurer, who +previously, from the effects of the cold, had been the colour of a +congested alderman in the face, gradually assumed a more healthy hue. We +now inquired what the object might be of preparing this cavern. Thereupon +Jaun gave vent to the ingenious suggestion that we had better remain where +we were and sleep in it. The idea seemed too likely to lead to permanent +repose to be commendable, and we received his proposition, as befitted its +nature, with some coolness, remarking that on the whole we should prefer +to go home. This view led to further conversation; ultimately we descended +a few feet on the south-east side and then made our way along the face of +the slope in a south-westerly direction towards the hut on the Aiguille du +Midi. The snow was soft, and we went on for some distance without +difficulty, till we again reached the ridge on the south-west side of the +Aiguille, having thus passed round the base of the final peak of the +mountain, which consists of a comparatively small rocky cone jutting up +from the main ridge. We were still of course a long way from the hut, but +as in this situation we were much more sheltered, we took the opportunity +to review the state of affairs and to consider our position, which for the +moment, like that of the pocket of a lady's ball dress, was indeterminate. +What were we to do? As with the diners at "Prix fixe" restaurant, there +were three courses for us: we might go down on one side, we might descend +on the other side, or we might remain where we were. The latter +alternative was as distasteful now as it had been just previously, and it +was negatived decisively. "Very good," said the guides; "if you won't stay +here we must go down that way," and they pointed in a direction westerly +by the compass. My companion and I were opposed to this plan for two +reasons: one that the route would, if it led anywhere in particular, take +us down to the Glacier des Bossons, where we did not want to go, the other +that by reason of the marvellous fury of the hurricane it would have been +altogether impossible to follow at all the line indicated. We were only in +fact able to dart out from under shelter of the rock and peer down into +the misty depths for a few seconds at a time, for the gale took our breath +away as completely as in the "cavern of the winds" at Niagara. To have +climbed down a new and difficult rock cliff in the face of the numbing +cold would have been little short of suicidal. + +(M76) + +It is Artemus Ward, I think, who describes the ingenious manner in which +Baron Trenck, of prison-breaking fame, escaped on one occasion from +durance vile. For fifteen long years the Baron had lain immured, and had +tried in vain to carry out all the sensational methods of escape ever +suggesting themselves to his fertile brain. At last an idea occurred to +him. He opened the door and walked out. By an intellectual effort of +almost equal brilliancy and originality we solved the difficulty that +beset us: we turned towards the south-east and walked quietly down the +slope for a hundred feet or so. Simplicity of thought is characteristic of +great minds. Why, nevertheless, it had not occurred to us before to escape +by this line I can no more explain than I can give the reason why all the +ladies in a concert-room smile, as one woman, when a singer of their own +sex makes her appearance on the platform, or why itinerant harp players +always wear tall hats. Immediately the complexion of affairs brightened +up. The wind was much less furious than it had been on the ridge, and the +hail was replaced by snow. Jaun now gave it as his opinion that the best +line of descent would consist in crossing round the head of the Valle +Blanche and the upper slopes of the Glacier du Gant, so as to join the +ordinary route leading from the Col du Gant to the Montanvert. But in the +thick mist it would have been far from easy to hit off the right track, +and we thought it possible to make a short cut to the same end, and to +find a way directly down the Valle Blanche towards the rocks known as the +Petit Rognon. We had no compass with us, but the direction of the slope +indicated the proper line of descent to follow. In most years it would not +be easy to discover the way through the complicated crevasses of the +ice-fall situated between the "Rognon" and the easterly rocks of the +Aiguille du Midi; but in 18-- so much snow had fallen early in the spring +and so little had melted during the summer, that we experienced +comparatively little difficulty in descending almost in a straight line. +During this part of the expedition the good qualities of our guides showed +once more to advantage. Unquestionably while on the ridge they had put +forward suggestions which were rather wild in character, and which were +proved now to be mistaken. The intense cold and the beating of the storm +seemed rather to have paralysed their usually calm judgment, and it is an +odd fact that guides, even when first rate, are oftentimes more affected +by such conditions than are the amateurs whom they conduct. We could no +more, with such experience as we possessed, have led the way aright as our +leader did with unerring sagacity, than an untutored person could write +out a full orchestra score. We could only insist on a given line being +taken if in their judgment it were possible. Once fairly started, we felt +that we must push our plan through, employing the same form of argument as +the man did in support of a bold statement that a certain beaver, closely +pursued by a dog, had climbed up a tree. It was not a question now whether +we could do it, or could not do it; we had to do it. The day was far +spent, there was possibly much difficult work before us, and the exertion +already undergone had been tolerably severe. The temptation was therefore +great rather to scamp the work of finding the best and safest track +through the ice-fall, but our leader displayed as much care and +thoroughness as if he were strolling over snow slopes with a critical +Chamouni guide behind him. A momentary glimpse of the familiar form of the +Aiguille du Gant right in front of us confirmed the judgment that we were +on the right track. In descending the ice-fall we passed to the right of +the Petit Rognon, and at the base of the Sracs halted and thought we +would have something to eat. Maurer produced our stock of provisions, +which consisted of one roll studded with little bits of broken glass and +reduced by the action of wine and water to the consistence of a poultice. +The refection was, therefore, as unsatisfactory as a meal out of a loosely +tied nosebag to a cab horse. And now for another departure from +time-honoured custom. All mountain narratives at this period of the day +make reference to the use of tobacco, the well-earned pipe, and so forth. +But the sleety rain, which for the last hour and a half had replaced the +snow, had soaked everything so thoroughly that an attempt to carry out the +orthodox proceeding did not, like most failures, end in smoke. So we +trudged on again empty and unsolaced. + +(M77) + +As the shades of night were falling, four dripping and woe-begone +travellers might, to borrow the novelist's common mode of expression, have +been observed toiling up the steep path towards the old Montanvert +hotel--that is, they might have been observed by anybody who was foolish +enough to be out of doors on such a detestable evening. We entered the +familiar little room, an ingenious compound of a toyshop and a barrack, +and notwithstanding that we were viewed with marked disfavour by the other +guests therein assembled in consequence of our moist and steamy condition, +we seated ourselves and called for refreshment. The atmosphere in the +stuffy den called the salon was a trifle pungent, and having contributed a +little additional dampness to the apartment we set off again. That +familiar old room with its odd collection of curiosities, in which the +fare was on the whole more disproportionate to the price than at any other +institution of a similar kind in the mountains, has ceased to exist long +ago. I fancy that it did not require much pulling down. It is happily +replaced now by one of the best managed and most comfortable mountain +hotels to be found in the Alps, a sure sign of which attraction is to be +found in the fact that it is, at any rate, spoken of with disfavour by the +inhabitants of the village below or by such as do not hold shares. Another +hour's descent and we passed through the few scattered houses just outside +Chamouni. The attractions on the way down had not diverted us from our +stern purpose of reaching Couttet's hotel as soon as possible. We had +politely declined the invitation of a perennially knitting young woman to +view a live chamois. The spasmodic smile called up by each approaching +tourist faded from her countenance as we passed by. Four times did we +decline the gentle refreshment of _limonade gazeuse_, once did we sternly +refuse to partake of strawberries, and twice to purchase crystals. It was +dark as we neared the town; it may have been my fancy, but I cannot help +thinking that I perceived our old friend the blind beggar with the +lugubrious expression which he wore when on duty, and with the tall hat +which served the purpose of an alms'-box, and which he did not wear when +on duty, enjoying himself in a very merry manner by the side of a blazing +fire. Notwithstanding that night had fallen there was still a little group +by the bridge round the one-armed telescope man, anxiously crowding to +hear the last news of the two insane Englishmen who had without doubt +perished that day miserably on the rocks of the Midi. A project had +already been started to organise an expedition on the morrow to search for +the bodies; and we might very possibly, if we had cared for the +excitement, have been allowed to join the party. + +(M78) + +As in a play the most striking situation is by the discreet author +reserved to the conclusion, so in this contradictory chapter the most +glaring deficiency comes now at the end. My readers, if they have +generously followed me so far, will recognise that we not only went on +something of a fool's errand, incurring considerable difficulty and +perhaps risk in that mission, but that we never got up the mountain at +all. The force of contradictoriness can no further go. Still, it may be +pointed out that we did actually accomplish all that was novel in the +expedition. Once on the ridge, the remaining portion of the climb is, in +fine weather, easy and well known, so the fact that the Aiguille du Midi +can be ascended by this line by any one consumed with an ambition to do +so, is beyond doubt. We were not probably at one point more than twenty +minutes or half an hour from the actual summit. I cannot honestly advise +anybody to follow our tracks; but in all probability, if someone should +desire to do so, he need not, under favourable conditions, contemplate +meeting with any unsurmountable difficulties. + + [Illustration: THE AIGUILLE DU DRU + FROM THE SOUTH] + + + + + + CHAPTER VI. + + + ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE DU DRU + + + "_Decies repetita placebit_" + + + Disadvantages of narratives of personal adventure--Expeditions on + the Aiguille du Dru in 1874--The ridge between the Aiguilles du Dru + and Verte--"Dfendu de passer par l"--Distance lends + enchantment--Other climbers attack the peak--View of the mountain + from the Col de Balme--We try the northern side, and fail more + signally than usual--Showing that mountain fever is of the + recurrent type--We take seats below, but have no opportunity of + going up higher--The campaign opens--We go under canvas--A spasmodic + start, and another failure--A change of tactics and a new + leader--Our sixteenth attempt--Sports and pastimes at Chamouni--The + art of cray-fishing--The apparel oft proclaims the man--A canine + acquaintance--A new ally--The turning point of the expedition--A + rehearsal for the final performance--A difficult descent--A blank in + the narrative--A carriage misadventure--A penultimate failure--We + start with two guides and finish with one--The rocks of the + Dru--Maurer joins the party--Our nineteenth attempt--A narrow escape + in the gully--The arte at last--The final scramble--Our foe is + vanquished and decorated--The return journey--Benighted--A moonlight + descent--We are graciously received--On "fair" mountaineering--The + prestige of new peaks--Chamouni becomes festive--"Heut' Abend + grosses Feuerwerkfest"--Chamouni dances and shows hospitality--The + scene closes in. + + +It is to some extent an unfortunate circumstance that in a personal +narrative of adventure the result is practically known from the very +beginning. The only uncertainty that can exist is the actual pattern on +which the links of the chain are united together, for the climax is from +the outset a foregone conclusion. The descriptive account will inevitably +conduct the reader along a more or less mazy path to an assured goal. +There is certainly one other variety, but that takes the less satisfactory +form of an obituary notice. Even in a thoroughly well-acted play a +perceptible shudder runs through the audience when two actors select each +a chair, draw them down to the footlights, and one announces "'Tis now +some fourteen years ago." The expression in its pristine dramatic +simplicity may still be heard in transpontine theatres, but modern realism +insists usually on a paraphrase. The audience cannot but feel, however +thrilling the story to be told, that at any rate the two players have +survived the adventures they have to narrate, and on the whole a good many +wish they hadn't. There sit the heroes, and exert themselves as they will +their recital is apt to fall somewhat flat. In like manner I will not +attempt to conceal the fact that the ultimate result of our numerous +attempts on the peak which forms the subject of this chapter was that we +got up it, and the fact may also be divulged that we came down again, and +in safety. Indeed, it seems difficult now to realise the length of time +during which our ultimate success oscillated in the balance--at one time +appearing hopeless, at another problematical, at times almost certain, and +then again apparently out of our reach. + +(M79) + +In 1874, with two guides, of whom Alexander Burgener was one, we started +for the Montanvert with the intention of making for the ridge between the +Aiguille du Dru and the Aiguille Verte, with the object of further +investigating the route which Messrs. Pendlebury, Kennedy and Marshall had +essayed on an occasion already described, when the bad condition of the +rocks frustrated their hopes. The mountain was probably in a very +different state on this occasion, and we experienced no very great +difficulty in discovering a fairly easy route up the rocks. The chief +trouble consisted in the fact that the rock gully by which the ascent is +chiefly made was extensively plastered over with ice, a condition in which +we nearly always found it. The last part of the climb up to the ridge +affords a most splendid scramble. The face is so steep on either side that +the climber comes quite suddenly to a position whence he overlooks the +northern slope, if slope it may be called, and looks down on to the +Glacier du Nant Blanc. Seen in grey shadow, or half shrouded in shifting +mists and coloured only with half-tints, the precipice is magnificent; +huge sheets of clear ice coat its flanks, and the almost unbroken descent +of rock affords as striking a spectacle as the mountaineer fond of wild +desolation can well picture. + + If you would see this slope aright, + Look at it by the pale grey light. + +On the left the mass of the Aiguille du Dru cuts off the view of the +fertile regions; far away on the right the huge tapering towers of rock +form a massive foreground stretching away to the base of the Aiguille +Verte. The spectator too seems strangely shut off, so that, gazing around, +on either side he can see but a narrow extent of the mountain. We looked +down and did not like what we saw; we looked up and liked it less. The day +was fine and the mountain in good condition. I can recall now that our +eyes must have wandered over the very route that ultimately proved to be +the right one, and yet to none of us that afternoon did it appear in the +least degree possible. Unquestionably the crags of the Aiguille du Dru +looked formidable enough from this point of view, and we could not but +think that nature must have provided some easier mode of access to the +summit than this face seemed to afford. We climbed along the ridge till we +were almost against the face of the mountain, but then we had to turn our +gaze so directly upwards that matters looked still worse. Then we faced +about and climbed in the other direction. The rocks seemed to grow bigger +and bigger the more we looked at them. What the guides actually thought I +do not quite know, but at the moment my own impression was that it would +be impossible to ascend more than two or three hundred feet: so we turned +and came back. Even while we yet descended the thought came that this face +of the mountain was perhaps not so utterly hopeless as it had appeared a +few minutes previously, and in my own mind I decided that, should we fail +in discovering some much more promising line from another point of view, +we would at least return to the ridge often enough to familiarise +ourselves with this aspect of the mountain, with the idea that such +familiarity if it did not succeed in breeding contempt might at least give +birth to a more sanguine frame of mind. The farther we got from our point +of view the more hopeful did the mental impression seem to become, and by +the time we reached Chamouni we had all separately arrived at the +conclusion--somewhat selfish perhaps, but justifiable under the +circumstances--that if asked what we thought of the possibility of +ascending by the face we had tried, we would give honestly the opinion we +had formed while on the ridge, and not the opinion at which we had arrived +subsequently. + +(M80) + +Other explorers were meanwhile at work on the mountain, but so far as I +could learn all their attempts were made on the south-western peak. At any +rate they followed more or less the line we had first struck out. Some +thought that the lower peak alone was feasible, others that the higher +peak was attainable only from the south-western side. So thought Mr. E. R. +Whitwell; so again, Mr. J. Birkbeck, jun., both of whom reached probably a +much higher point on the south-western face than we succeeded in obtaining +in 1873. + +In 1875 we were making our way once more by the Col de Balme to Chamouni, +and being in somewhat of a reflective mood, induced by the consumption of +a soup-tureen full of bread and milk at the hotel at the top of the pass, +we sought a shady spot hard by whence a good view of the Aiguille du Dru +could be obtained, and contemplated the precipices as seen from this point +of view. The northern slope leading up to the ridge over which we had +looked lay well before us. The upper part of the mountain looked +distinctly different as far as accessibility was concerned. It seemed just +possible, if a way could only be found up from the level of the ridge to a +certain ledge some distance above, that the final mass might be feasible. +There appeared to be a sort of gully sloping upwards in a direction curved +away from us, in which the snow lay so thick that the rocks on either side +could not, we thought, be very steep. At the least it seemed to be worth +our while to make for this gully, which was obviously unattainable from +the ridge itself, for it was here cut off by a belt of straight rock. + +(M81) + +A few days later we carried the idea into effect. It was necessary to +engage some one to carry the tent, and Burgener was deputed to search for +a porter of a willing disposition and suitable physical conformation. +Presently he came back in company with a shambling youth of great length +of limb and somewhat lanky frame. We inquired if he were willing to come +with us, whereupon the young man was seized with violent facial +contortions, and we perceived that he suffered from an impediment in his +speech. Not wishing to render him nervous by our presence, we took a short +turn in the garden, leaving him where he stood. On our return the young +man's efforts culminated in the remark, "How much?" We said, "Twenty-five +francs," and then started off to consult the barometer. On coming back +after this interval we found that the young man had just previously +succeeded in articulating "Yes." The practical result of this one-sided +colloquy was that the next day the tall young man was laden with the tent, +with directions to carry it up to a point immediately opposite the +Montanvert below the Glacier du Nant Blanc. The tall young man shouldered +his burden and started off with great activity. We followed him somewhat +later under the rather transparent pretence of going to hunt for crystals +next day. Making our way up by a long ridge lying between the Glacier du +Nant Blanc and a little snow patch dignified in some maps by the +appellation of the Glacier du Dru, we skirted round the base of the +Aiguille looking constantly upwards to find some practicable line of +ascent, and hoping that we might discover one which would conduct us up on +to the main mass of the mountain before we had got opposite to the point +by which we had made our ascent from the southern side. It soon became +evident that we were very unlikely to find a way. Far above jutted out a +little horizontal table of rock. Burgener observed that if we could only +get there it would be something. So far his remarks did not appear +inaccurate, but it was perfectly clear before long that there was no +chance of getting any higher, supposing we could get on to this platform; +yet a little further, and we perceived that we could not even get to it. +Ultimately we discovered that the platform itself was an optical delusion. +It did not seem worth while to make any attempt to reach the summit of the +ridge from the side we were on, even if we could have done so, which I +doubt. The day may come when the climber will seek to discover some +variation to the route up the peak; but mountaineering skill will indeed +have improved out of all knowledge if anyone ever succeeds in getting up +this northern face. From every point of view we surveyed it, and from +every point of view, in our opinion, it was equally impossible. So in the +evening we came back once more to the tent, from the door of which +protruded a pair of thick boots. These encased the feet articulated to the +lanky legs of the tall young man, who had been enjoying a siesta of some +ten or twelve hours' duration. Kicking gently at a prominent bulging of +the canvas on the opposite side to the door had the effect of waking our +slumbrous friend, who was exceedingly sarcastic at our want of success; +so, at least, we judged by his expression of countenance. For a long while +his efforts yielded no verbal result. But his words seemed as it were to +stick fast in an endeavour to bring them out three or four abreast through +a portal that was capable only of allowing egress to them in single file. +Of a sudden the jostling syllables broke down the obstructing barrier, and +he startled us by pouring forth a string of remarks with precipitate +volubility. Knowing, however, that it would be some time before we could +hope to try the peak again, we were not loth to leave him under the +impression, to be communicated to his friends at Chamouni, that we had +come to the conclusion that the mountain was inaccessible. + +(M82) + +It was not till 1878 that we were able to revisit once more the scene of +our many failures. + +During the winter months, however, the thought of the stubborn Aiguille +had been from time to time discussed, and when J. Oakley Maund and I came +back to Chamouni we had very serious intentions. This time we were both +possessed with one fixed determination with regard to the Aiguille. Either +we would get up to the top or, at the worst, would, as far as lay in our +power, prove that it was inaccessible by any line of attack. By my wish, +our first attempts were to be made by the old route leading towards the +lower peak; not that we were very sanguine of succeeding by this line of +ascent, but rather because we felt that no very great amount of +exploration would be necessary to determine whether the higher point could +or could not be reached from this side; but though our intentions were +good we were scarcely prepared for the difficulties that met us from the +beginning. The elements seemed to have set their faces against us. Time +after time when all was ready for a start we were baulked by snow, wind, +or rain. Day after day we sat waiting in vain for the favourable moment, +sometimes at our bivouac high up above the Mer de Glace, by the side of +the Glacier de la Charpoua, till hope deferred and a series of _table +d'hte_ dinners combined with want of exercise to make the heart sick and +the individual despondently dyspeptic. Perhaps the wind would shift round +a point or two towards the north and a couple of fine days occur. +Straightway we set off for the tent which we left concealed at the +bivouac. Then came the rain again, and we had to return soaked and +dejected. Sometimes it rained before we got to the Montanvert and +sometimes after, and in fact we seemed to be making perpetually fitful +excursions from the kitchen fire at the Montanvert to that at Couttet's +hotel. On hydropathic principles we found the state of the elements no +mean form of cure for the mountain fever. Still, like the hungry butler, +we reflected that everything comes to him who waits, and seizing every +possible opportunity did manage to achieve some climbing during the rare +intervals of moderately favourable weather. + +(M83) + +The campaign was opened with an attempt made with Jaun and Andreas Maurer +as guides. A youth of hollow visage and weak joints (a relation, possibly, +of our friend with the one defective articulation), who did not much enter +into the spirit of the expedition, and who seemed by his expression to +echo Hamlet's interrogation as to the necessity of bearing fardels, +carried our tent up to the grass slopes by the Charpoua glacier. Here, on +a smooth, level patch of turf surrounded on three sides by rocks, we +established a little country seat, though we scarcely realised on this +first occasion how often it would be our lot to run up and spend the night +there, and to return to town the following morning. There are many and +excellent camping places about these slopes; dry dwarf rhododendron bushes +abound, and water is plentiful. There was no difficulty in rising early +the next morning, for at some time in the small hours the spindle-legged +porter was seized with terrible cramp. Under ordinary circumstances his +lower limbs were imperfectly under his control, and when thus affected +they became perfectly ungovernable, so that the neat order in which we had +disposed ourselves overnight for slumber was rudely disarranged, and we +were forced to rise and turn out till the spasms should have subsided. +Under the influence of gentle friction the spasms quieted down, and when +we left he was troubled only with a few twitching kicks, such as may be +observed in a dreaming dog. At 2 A.M. we started and wended our way up the +glacier, every step of which seemed familiar. To our surprise and delight +the snow was in first-rate order, and our spirits rose at the prospect of +a good climb; but the time had not yet come for success, and our hopes +were soon to be dashed. There was still an immense amount of snow on the +lower rock slopes over which access to the south-western peak is alone +possible, and this snow was in a highly treacherous condition. Before we +had ascended many feet the guides very properly refused to go on, a +determination with which we felt ourselves bound to acquiesce. They +pointed out that it would be unwarrantably dangerous to descend late in +the afternoon over deep snow, soft, and but loosely adhering to the rocks. +Under such conditions it is of course impossible to judge of the foothold, +and there is nothing to hold on to with the hands. There was no other +alternative, therefore, if we were to follow this route, than to wait till +more of the snow should have melted, or else to find a track where the +rocks were bare. As far as we could ascertain, however, there was no such +track to be seen. We decided to go back, but still remained at Chamouni, +for we durst not lose a single favourable opportunity. With an +imperturbability bred of long experience did we meet the sniggers and +sneers of certain croakers below, who looked with an unfavourable eye on +our proceedings. + +(M84) + +Within the next fortnight we made two further attempts by much the same +route and with the same guides, but only succeeded in going far enough to +prove that the opinion of the guides was perfectly correct with regard to +the state of the snow. Already matters seemed to justify some gloomy doubt +as to whether we could carry out even the exploratory part of our +programme, for Jaun was compelled to leave us in order to fulfil another +engagement, and we scarcely knew where to turn to find another man capable +of guiding us in the way we desired to go. Still our determination was +unshaken by our run of ill-luck. We would not give it up. With no more +definite object than that of justifying an impending _table d'hte_ +dinner, I was walking up the Montanvert path one rainy afternoon, when a +ray of sunlight suddenly burst upon me in the person of Alexander +Burgener. He had come over the Col du Gant with a party of travellers, +and to our delight was not only disengaged, but exceedingly anxious to +attack once more, or, in fact, as often as we liked, the obstinate +Aiguille. From the moment that he assumed the chief command matters began +to wear a different complexion, for we learnt that he had taken every +opportunity to consider and study the mountain. By his advice a complete +change of tactics was adopted. We decided to abandon all idea of attacking +the lower peak, and made up our minds to try the higher summit by the +route we had first followed four years previously. We had often discussed +together our chances of success on this peak, and had often come to the +conclusion that its ascent was more than doubtful. But now Burgener was so +positive of ultimate triumph, and so confident in his own powers, not only +of getting up himself, but of getting us also to our goal, that the whole +matter seemed placed before us in a different light. We might have to +wait, we might have to try many times, but still we could not but believe +the impression that now gradually formed that we must ultimately succeed. +To the spirit which Burgener displayed that year, and which he imbued in +us (at a time when it must be confessed that such a spirit was much +wanted, for we were as downcast as water-cure patients during the +process), and to his sagacity and great guiding qualities, the whole of +our ultimate success was due. I knew that, as a guide, he was immeasurably +superior to an amateur in his trained knack of finding the way, and that +in quickness on rocks the two could hardly be compared. But previously it +had always seemed to me that the amateur excelled in one great requisite, +viz., pluck. Let this record show that in one instance at least this +estimate was erroneous, for had it not been for Burgener's indomitable +pluck we should never have succeeded in climbing the Aiguille du Dru. + +(M85) + +Burgener was of opinion that from the summit of the actual ridge lying +east of the higher peak, and between it and the Aiguille Verte, it was not +feasible to ascend on to the face of the mountain, and he proposed +accordingly that we should commence by making a study of the rocks lying +to the left of the main gully running up to this same ridge, endeavouring +if possible to discover some point where we could bear off to the left on +to the real mass of the mountain. In addition he pointed out that the +upper rocks might be very difficult and require much time (as we had +already agreed together in previous years that they were altogether +impossible, this remark seemed probable enough), and it was important +therefore to discover the easiest and quickest way up the lower part of +the rock slopes. Accordingly we departed--and this was our sixteenth +attempt--from the Montanvert one morning at 1 A.M. We had long since +cultivated a manner of going about our business in such a way as to avoid +the gaze of the curious, and set forth on this occasion in much the same +spirit that burglars adopt when on evil errands intent. The day was +entirely spent as agreed in studying the lower rocks and working out +accurately the most feasible line of assault. But though we ascended on +this occasion to no very great height we were perpetually engaged in +climbing, and the quantity of snow which still lay on the rocks rendered +progress difficult and care necessary. Still it was no haphazard +exploration that we were engaged in, and the spirit of deliberation in +which we began begat a spirit of hopefulness as we went on. A fancied +insufficiency of guiding strength, coupled with a decidedly insufficient +supply of rope and an inherent idea that the new line of assault +contemplated was not to be worked out to an end at the first attempt, all +combined to drive us back to Chamouni late the same evening. + +(M86) + +_Aprs cela le dluge_, and for a long time high mountaineering of any +description was out of the question. Desperate were the attempts we made +to amuse ourselves, and to while away the time. Sports and pastimes within +the limited area of the hotel premises were the fashion for a time. The +courtyard in front of Couttet's hotel was made into a lawn-tennis ground. +The village stores being ransacked yielded a limited supply of +parti-coloured india-rubber balls; the village carpenter constructed bats +out of flat pieces of wood, and we sought to forget the unpropitious +elements by playing morning, noon, and night. As a result several windows +and a lamp were reduced to ruin. Then we went a-crayfishing. A basket +carriage, which was constructed apparently of iron sheeting, but painted +over with a wicker-work pattern in order to deceive a flea-bitten grey +steed of great age with the impression that it was very light, conveyed us +to Chtelard, which by a twofold inaccuracy was termed the fishing-ground, +our object being to catch animals which were not fish and lived in water. +There the sport began, and was conducted on this wise. Sticks with a cleft +at the end, into which nondescript pieces of ill-smelling meat were +wedged, were submerged in a little brook to tempt the prey, but the only +bites we got were from the horse-flies and inflicted on our own persons; +howbeit, one or two of the party when at a distance from their +fellow-sportsmen averred that they had been on a point of catching +monsters of the deep the size of lobsters. We did not discover till +subsequently that, led astray by a plausible peasant possessed of riparian +rights and untruthful propensities, we had been fishing (or +"crustaceaning," to speak correctly) all day in a stream untenanted by any +crayfish whatever, the result being that we caught a chill and nothing +else. The ancient steed, moreover, though he bowled along merrily enough +down the hill to Chtelard and required no more stimulus than an +occasional chirrup from the driver afforded, was yet very loth to draw the +party back up the hill at the same pace, and required such constant +stimulation of a more active kind on the way back that it was found +necessary before we reached the village to stop and smooth out the creases +on his sides. The next day the report came that the spotted grey was "trs +malade," and the next day too my right arm was excessively stiff. + +A subsequent sporting expedition yielded happier results. One of the +party, gifted with diplomatic talents and a power of detecting the +vulnerable points in the character of the natives, purchased, for the sum +of one franc, information from a shockheaded juvenile suffering from a +skin eruption as to the best stocked streams. Then did the deep yield up +its carnivorous denizens. Artfully and in silence did the anglers wait for +their prey to claw the reeking bait. Deftly and warily did they withdraw +the rod, sometimes with two or three victims clinging in a bunch, and land +the spoil on the bank. Then would the crayfish loosen their hold, roll +over on their backs, flap their tails very briskly, and start off with +amazing rapidity for short country walks, speedily to be captured and +consigned to the recesses of a receptacle, bearing a suspicious +resemblance to Madame Couttet's work-basket. Ultimately they formed the +basis of a "bisque" not unworthy of Brbant. + +(M87) + +What time the india-rubber balls were all burst and the fishing-ground had +lost its attraction, seated on a tilted chair beneath the verandah we fell +a-musing and studied human nature, and the various types that presented +day after day round and about the hotel. Much was there to marvel at in +many of the costumes, to many of which the late Mr. Planch himself would +have been unable to assign a date. It has been noticed of course, times +out of mind, as a characteristic of the Briton, that a costume in which he +would not go coal-heaving at home is considered good enough for Sunday in +the Alps. One gentleman indeed, whose own apparel would have been +considered untidy even if he had been a member of a shipwrecked crew, had +been enlarging on this topic with much fervour, to a select audience, +dwelling especially on the discourtesy thus shown to the natives of the +country. I looked, when Sunday came, that he should be clad in raiment of +more than ordinary fitness and splendour, but the only changes that I +could perceive from the week-day vesture consisted in a tall hat, which +somebody had mistaken for an opera hat on some occasion, and a long strip +of rag wound round a cut finger, while his wife, who had recently been on +the glaciers, appeared in a low cut dress, so that she presented a curious +piebald appearance. The lateness of the season may have accounted for the +fact that many of the garments seemed rapidly to be resolving into their +pristine condition of warp and woof, especially about the region where it +is usual in the Alps to light the poison-darting lucifer matches of the +country. There were flannel shirts with collars on some, and flannel +shirts without them on others, while yet a third set wore white chokers +round their necks made of vulcanite, so that they looked like favourite +pug-dogs, or fashioned of a shiny paper, which obviously had no more to do +with the garment with which they were temporarily associated than the +label of an expensive wine at a second-rate restaurant has to do with the +contents of the bottle. Then we fell to anatomical study, and marvelled at +the various imperfections of development the muscle known to the learned +as the gastrocnemius(4) could exhibit in the legs of our countrymen, and +wondered why they took such pains in their costume to display its usually +unsymmetrical proportions, and wondered too if they really believed that a +double folding back of the upper part of the stocking below the +knickerbocker deceived anyone with an appearance of mighty thews. Then we +went off and tapped the barometer, which was as devoid of principle as a +bone setter, and kept on persistently rising. We made friends with a +little stray waif of a dog of obsequious demeanour and cringing +disposition, prone to roll over on its back when spoken to, thereby +displaying a curiously speckled stomach, but which was withal inclined to +be amiable, and wagged its tail so vigorously on being noticed that I +quite feared it might sustain a sprain at the root of that appendage. But +our friendship was short-lived. Before long our little friend found an +acquaintance in the shape of a small semi-shaved mongrel with a tail like +a stalk of asparagus run to seed. After a little preliminary walking about +on tiptoe, friendly overtures were made. The game commenced by the +playmates licking each others' noses; next they ran round with surprising +rapidity in very small circles, and then fell to wrestling in the middle +of the courtyard. These canine acquaintanceships always end in the same +way. Before long a sudden, sharp squeak was heard, and the last I saw of +my little friend was a vanishing form darting round the nearest corner, +with his tail as much between his legs as the excessive shortness of that +excrescence would permit. His playmate, somewhat disturbed for a moment by +this abrupt termination of the acquaintanceship, gazed pensively, with +ears erect, for a while in the direction in which his friend had vanished: +then investigated two or three unimportant objects by the sense of smell, +consumed a few blades of grass, yawned twice, stretched himself once, +rolled on something which had puzzled him, and retired to repose at a +little distance to await the expected medicinal effects of the herb of +which he had partaken. + +(M88) + +This is a true saying, that "There's small choice in rotten apples," and a +description of boredom in one place is much like the same in another. +Gradually, weariness of the flesh below in the valley became almost +intolerable, while we were longing for an opportunity to weary the flesh, +in another way, on the mountain. Ultimately, to my infinite regret, Maund +found himself obliged to depart to fulfil an engagement elsewhere, but I +still held on, though the conviction was daily becoming stronger that the +rain would go on till the winter snows came. + +(M89) + +On a mountain such as we knew the Aiguille du Dru to be it would not have +been wise to make any attempt with a party of more than four. No doubt +three--that is, an amateur with two guides--would have been better still, +but I had, during the enforced inaction through which we had been passing, +become so convinced of ultimate success that I was anxious to find a +companion to share it. Fortunately, J. Walker Hartley, a highly skilful +and practised mountaineer, was at Chamouni, and it required but little +persuasion to induce him to join our party. Seizing an opportunity one +August day when the rain had stopped for a short while, we decided to try +once more, or at any rate to see what effects the climatic phases through +which we had been passing had produced on the Aiguille. With Alexander +Burgener and Andreas Maurer still as guides we ascended once again the +slopes by the side of the Charpoua glacier, and succeeded in discovering a +still more eligible site for a bivouac than on our previous attempts. A +little before four the next morning we extracted each other from our +respective sleeping bags, and made our way rapidly up the glacier. The +snow still lay thick everywhere on the rocks, which were fearfully cold +and glazed with thin layers of slippery ice; but our purpose was very +serious that day, and we were not to be deterred by anything short of +unwarrantable risk. We intended the climb to be merely one of exploration, +but were resolved to make it as thorough as possible, and with the best +results. From the middle of the slope leading up to the ridge the guides +went on alone while we stayed to inspect and work out bit by bit the best +routes over such parts of the mountain as lay within view. In an hour or +two Burgener and Maurer came back to us, and the former invited me to go +on with him back to the point from which he had just descended. His +invitation was couched in gloomy terms, but there was a twinkle at the +same time in his eye which it was easy to interpret--_ce n'est que l'oeil +qui rit_. We started off and climbed without the rope up the way which was +now so familiar, but which on this occasion, in consequence of the glazed +condition of the rocks, was as difficult as it could well be; but for a +growing conviction that the upper crags were not so bad as they looked we +should scarcely have persevered. "Wait a little," said Burgener, "I will +show you something presently." We reached at last a great knob of rock +close below the ridge, and for a long time sat a little distance apart +silently staring at the precipices of the upper peak. I asked Burgener +what it might be that he had to show me. He pointed to a little crack some +way off, and begged that I would study it, and then fell again to gazing +at it very hard himself. Though we scarcely knew it at the time, this was +the turning point of our year's climbing. Up to that moment I had only +felt doubts as to the inaccessibility of the mountain. Now a certain +feeling of confident elation began to creep over me. The fact is, that we +gradually worked ourselves up into the right mental condition, and the +aspect of a mountain varies marvellously according to the beholder's frame +of mind. These same crags had been by each of us independently, at one +time or another, deliberately pronounced impossible. They were in no +better condition that day than usual, in fact in much worse order than we +had often seen them before. Yet, notwithstanding that good judges had +ridiculed the idea of finding a way up the precipitous wall, the prospect +looked different that day as turn by turn we screwed our determination up +to the sticking point. Here and there we could clearly trace short bits of +practicable rock ledges along which a man might walk, or over which at any +rate he might transport himself, while cracks and irregularities seemed to +develop as we looked. Gradually, uniting and communicating passages +appeared to form. Faster and faster did our thoughts travel, and at last +we rose and turned to each other. The same train of ideas had +independently been passing through our minds. Burgener's face flushed, his +eyes brightened, and he struck a great blow with his axe as we exclaimed +almost together, "It must, and it shall be done!" + +(M90) + +The rest of the day was devoted to bringing down the long ladder, which +had previously been deposited close below the summit of the ridge, to a +point much lower and nearer to the main peak. This ladder had not hitherto +been of the slightest assistance on the rocks, and had indeed proved a +source of constant anxiety and worry, for it was ever prone to precipitate +its lumbering form headlong down the slope. We had, it is true, used it +occasionally on the glacier to bridge over the crevasses, and had saved +some time thereby. Still we were loth to discard its aid altogether, and +accordingly devoted much time and no little exertion to hauling it about +and fixing it in a place of security. It was late in the evening before we +had made all our preparations for the next assault and turned to the +descent, which proved to be exceedingly difficult on this occasion. The +snow had become very soft during the day; the late hour and the melting +above caused the stones to fall so freely down the gully that we gave up +that line of descent and made our way over the face. Often, in travelling +down, we were buried up to the waist in soft snow overlying rock slabs, of +which we knew no more than that they were very smooth and inclined at a +highly inconvenient angle. It was imperative for one only to move at a +time, and the perpetual roping and unroping was most wearisome. In one +place it was necessary to pay out 150 feet of rope between one position of +comparative security and the one next below it, till the individual who +was thus lowered looked like a bait at the end of a deep sea line. One +step and the snow would crunch up in a wholesome manner and yield firm +support. The next, and the leg plunged in as far as it could reach, while +the submerged climber would, literally, struggle in vain to collect +himself. Of course those above, to whom the duty of paying out the rope +was entrusted, would seize the occasion to jerk as violently at the cord +as a cabman does at his horse's mouth when he has misguided the animal +round a corner. Now another step and a layer of snow not more than a foot +deep would slide off with a gentle hiss, exposing bare, black ice beneath, +or treacherous loose stones. Nor were our difficulties at an end when we +reached the foot of the rocks, for the head of the glacier had fallen away +from the main mass of the mountain, even as an ill-constructed bow window +occasionally dissociates itself from the faade of a jerry-built villa, +and some very complicated manoeuvring was necessary in order to reach the +snow slopes. It was not till late in the evening that we reached Chamouni; +but it would have mattered nothing to us even had we been benighted, for +we had seen all that we had wanted to see, and I would have staked my +existence now on the possibility of ascending the peak. But the moment was +not yet at hand, and our fortress held out against surrender to the very +last by calling in its old allies, sou'westerly winds and rainy weather. +The whirligig of time had not yet revolved so as to bring us in our +revenge. + + * * * * * * * * + +(M91) + +Perhaps the monotonous repetition of failures on the peak influences my +recollection of what took place subsequently to the expedition last +mentioned. Perhaps (as I sometimes think even now) an intense desire to +accomplish our ambition ripened into a realisation of actual occurrences +which really were only efforts of imagination. This much I know, that when +on September 7 we sat once more round a blazing wood fire at the familiar +bivouac gazing pensively at the crackling fuel, it seemed hard to persuade +one's-self that so much had taken place since our last attempt. Leaning +back against the rock and closing the eyes for a moment it seemed but a +dream, whose reality could be disproved by an effort of the will, that we +had gone to Zermatt in a storm and hurried back again in a drizzle on +hearing that some other climbers were intent on our peak; that we had left +Chamouni in rain and tried, for the seventeenth time, in a tempest; that +matters had seemed so utterly hopeless, seeing that the season was far +advanced and the days but short, as to induce me to return to England, +leaving minute directions that if the snow should chance to melt and the +weather to mend I might be summoned back at once; that after +eight-and-forty hours of sojourn in the fogs of my native land an +intimation had come by telegraph of glad tidings; that I had posted off +straightway by _grande vitesse_ back to Chamouni; that I had arrived there +at four in the morning, in consequence of a little misadventure, which may +be here parenthetically narrated. + +(M92) + +The afternoon diligence from Geneva did not go beyond Sallanches. However, +an ingenious young man of low commercial morality, who said that he had a +remarkable horse and a super-excellent carriage, was persuaded to drive me +on the remainder of the way to Chamouni. The young man, observing that he +had been very busy of late and had not been to bed for two nights (nor had +he, as might be judged, washed or tidied himself since last he sought +repose), took a very hearty drink out of a tumbler and climbed on to an +eminence like a long-legged footstool, which it appeared was the box seat. +With much cracking of whips and various ill-tempered remarks to his horse +we started with success, aided by the efforts of a well-meaning person +(judging by the way in which he wore his braces loosely encircling his +waist, devoted to the tending of horses), who, to oblige his friend the +driver, ran suddenly at the slothful animal in the shafts and punched the +beast very heartily in the ribs with his fist. Before we had gone a mile +our troubles began. The coachman's ill-humour subsided, it is true, but +only in consequence of Nature's soft nurse weighing his eyelids down. +Accordingly I got out my axe and poked him in the back when he curled up +under the influence of his fatigue. This made him swear a good deal, but +for a time the device was successful enough. Gradually the monotonous +jangling of the harness bells induced a somnolent disposition in me too, +and I conceived then the brilliant idea, as we were ascending the long +hill near St. Gervais at a walk, of planting the head of the axe against +my own chest and arranging the weapon in such a way that the spike was in +close contact with the small of the driver's back, so that when he fell +back it would run into him. Of a sudden I opened my eyes to find that the +jangling had ceased and the carriage stopped. We were undoubtedly at +Chamouni, and the journey was at an end. Such, however, was not quite the +case. As a matter of fact, we were not 200 yards further up the hill, the +horse was peacefully grazing by the roadside, and the young man had eluded +my artful contrivance by falling forwards off the box, where he lay +crumpled up into a shapeless heap, peacefully asleep, entangled between +the shafts, the traces, the splinter bar, and the horse's tail. + +I rubbed my eyes and forced away by an effort the confused jumble and +whirl of thoughts that were crowding through the brain. It was not the +sound of the parting farewell as the diligence lumbered away from +Chamouni, nor the slow heavy clank of the railway carriages as they +entered the station, nor the voices of the railway porters that rang in my +ears. Voices there were, but they were familiar. I started up and looked +around. Surely that was the familiar outline of the Aiguille du Dru clear +and bright above; surely that was Hartley (occupied for the moment in +mollifying the effects of sunburn by anointing his face with the contents +of a little squeeze-bottle), and there was Burgener; but what was this +untidy, sleeping mass at our feet? Gradually it dawned upon me that I was +but inverting a psychological process and trying to make a dream out of a +reality. Hartley was there; Burgener was there; and the uncomely bundle +was the outward form of the most incompetent guide in all the Alps. It was +not till next day that we learnt that this creature had previously +distinguished himself by utter imbecility in a difficult ascent up the +north face of the Zermatt Breithorn, nor did we till the next day fully +realise how bad a guide a man ranking as such might be. We kicked him in a +suitable place and he awoke; then he made the one true remark that during +our acquaintance with him he was heard to utter. He said he had been drunk +the day before; with this he relapsed, and during the remainder of the +time he was with us gave expression to nothing but whining complaints and +inaccurate statements. + +(M93) + +From four in the morning of the next day till seven in the evening, when +we reached our bivouac again, we were climbing without intermission; not +that our imbecile friend took any very active share in the day's +amusement. He was roped as last man in the caravan, and Hartley had to +drag him up the glacier. He was as slow of foot as he was of +understanding, and took no interest in the expedition. Twice we pointed +out to him half-hidden crevasses and begged that he would be careful. +Twice did he acknowledge our courtesy by disappearing abruptly into the +snowy depths. Then he favoured us with a short biographical sketch of his +wife, her attributes, and her affection for himself: he narrated the chief +characteristics of his children, and dilated on the responsible position +that as father of a family (probably all crtins, if there be any truth in +the hereditary transmission of parental qualities) he considered that he +occupied. Finally, as he appeared disposed to give us at length a memoir +of his grandfather deceased, we decided to unrope him and let him have his +own way in peace. For seven hours did he crouch under a little rock, not +daring to move either up or down, or even to take the knapsack off his +back. + +For the first time on this occasion did we succeed in climbing on to the +main peak well above the level of the ridge we had so often reached, by +means of leaving the gully at a much earlier point than usual. We followed +the exact line that we had marked out mentally on the last occasion. At +first progress was easy, but we could only make our way very slowly, +seeing that we had but one short rope and only one guide; for we had +injudiciously left the longer spare rope with our feeble-minded guide +below, and no shouts or implorations could induce him to make his way up +to us, nor had we leisure to go down to him; so we had to make the best of +matters as they were. We soon found a place where the ladder might be of +service, and spent some time in placing it in a position in which it +remains I believe till this day. + +Now, personal considerations had to a great extent to be lost sight of in +the desire to make the most of the day, and the result was that Hartley +must have had a very bad time of it. Unfortunately perhaps for him he was +by far the lightest member of the party; accordingly we argued that he was +far less likely to break the rickety old ladder than we were. Again, as +the lightest weight, he was most conveniently lowered down first over +awkward places when they occurred. + +(M94) + +In the times which are spoken of as old, and which have also, for some not +very definable reason, the prefix good, if you wanted your chimneys swept +you did not employ an individual now dignified by the title of a Ramoneur, +but you adopted the simpler plan of calling in a master sweep. This person +would come attended by a satellite, who wore the outward form of a boy and +was gifted with certain special physical attributes. Especially was it +necessary that the boy should be of such a size and shape as to fit nicely +to the chimney, not so loosely on the one hand as to have any difficulty +in ascending by means of his knees and elbows, nor so tightly on the other +as to run any peril of being wedged in. The boy was then inserted into the +chimney and did all the work, while the master remained below or sat +expectant on the roof to encourage, to preside over, and subsequently to +profit by, his apprentice's exertions. We adopted much the same principle. +Hartley, as the lightest, was cast for the _rle_ of the "jeune premier" +or boy, while Burgener and I on physical grounds alone filled the part, +however unworthily, of the master sweep. As a play not infrequently owes +its success to one actor, so did our "jeune premier," sometimes very +literally, pull us through on the present occasion. Gallantly indeed did +he fulfil his duty. Whether climbing up a ladder slightly out of the +perpendicular, leaning against nothing in particular and with overhanging +rocks above; whether let down by a rope tied round his waist, so that he +dangled like the sign of the "Golden Fleece" outside a haberdasher's shop, +or hauled up smooth slabs of rock with his raiment in an untidy heap +around his neck; in each and all of these exercises he was equally at +home, and would be let down or would come up smiling. One place gave us +great difficulty. An excessively steep wall of rock presented itself and +seemed to bar the way to a higher level. A narrow crack ran some little +way up the face, but above the rock was slightly overhanging, and the +water trickling from some higher point had led to the formation of a huge +bunch of gigantic icicles, which hung down from above. It was necessary to +get past these, but impossible to cut them away, as they would have fallen +on us below. Burgener climbed a little way up the face, planted his back +against it, and held on to the ladder in front of him, while I did the +same just below: by this means we kept the ladder almost perpendicular, +but feared to press the highest rung heavily against the icicles above +lest we should break them off. We now invited Hartley to mount up. For the +first few steps it was easy enough; but the leverage was more and more +against us as he climbed higher, seeing that he could not touch the rock, +and the strain on our arms below was very severe. However, he got safely +to the top and disappeared from view. The performance was a brilliant one, +but, fortunately, had not to be repeated; as on a subsequent occasion, by +a deviation of about fifteen or twenty feet, we climbed to the same spot +in a few minutes with perfect ease and without using any ladder at all. On +this occasion, however, we must have spent fully an hour while Hartley +performed his feats, which were not unworthy of a Japanese acrobat. Every +few feet of the mountain at this part gave us difficulty, and it was +curious to notice how, on this the first occasion of travelling over the +rock face, we often selected the wrong route in points of detail. We +ascended from twenty to fifty feet, then surveyed right and left, up and +down, before going any further. The minutes slipped by fast, but I have no +doubt now that if we had had time we might have ascended to the final +arte on this occasion. We had often to retrace our steps, and whenever we +did so found some slightly different line by which time could have been +saved. Though the way was always difficult nothing was impossible, and +when the word at last was given, owing to the failing light, to descend, +we had every reason to be satisfied with the result of the day's +exploration. There seemed to be little doubt that we had traversed the +most difficult part of the mountain, and, indeed, we found on a later +occasion, with one or two notable exceptions, that such was the case. + +(M95) + +However, at the time we did not think that, even if it were possible, it +would be at all advisable to make our next attempt without a second guide. +A telegram had been sent to Kaspar Maurer, instructing him to join us at +the bivouac with all possible expedition. The excitement was thus kept up +to the very last, for we knew not whether the message might have reached +him, and the days of fine weather were precious. + +It was late in the evening when we reached again the head of the glacier, +and the point where we had left the feeble creature who had started with +us as a second guide. On beholding us once more he wept copiously, but +whether his tears were those of gratitude for release from the cramped +position in which he had spent his entire day, or of joy at seeing us safe +again, or whether they were the natural overflow of an imbecile intellect +stirred by any emotion whatever, it were hard to say; at any rate he wept, +and then fell to a description of some interesting details concerning the +proper mode of bringing up infants, and the duties of parents towards +their children: the most important of which, in his estimation, was that +the father of a family should run no risk whatever on a mountain. Reaching +our bivouac, we looked anxiously down over the glacier for any signs of +Kaspar Maurer. Two or three parties were seen crawling homewards towards +the Montanvert over the ice-fields, but no signs of our guide were +visible. As the shades of night, however, were falling, we were able +indistinctly to see in the far-off distance a little black dot skipping +over the Mer de Glace with great activity. Most eagerly did we watch the +apparition, and when finally it headed in our direction and all doubt was +removed as to the personality, we felt that our constant ill-luck was at +last on the eve of changing. However, it was not till two days later that +we left Chamouni once more for the nineteenth and, as it proved, for the +last time to try the peak. + +(M96) + +On September 11, we sat on the rocks a few feet above the camping-place. +Never before had we been so confident of success. The next day's climb was +no longer to be one of exploration. We were to start as early as the light +would permit, and we were to go up and always up, if necessary till the +light should fail. Possibly we might have succeeded long before if we had +had the same amount of determination to do so that we were possessed with +on this occasion. We had made up our minds to succeed, and felt as if all +our previous attempts had been but a sort of training for this special +occasion. We had gone so far as to instruct our friends below to look out +for us on the summit between twelve and two the next day. We had even gone +to the length of bringing a stick wherewith to make a flag-staff on the +top. Still one, and that a very familiar source of disquietude, harassed +us as our eyes turned anxiously to the west. A single huge band of cloud +hung heavily right across the sky, and looked like a harbinger of evil, +for it was of a livid colour above, and tinged with a deep crimson red +below. My companion was despondent at the prospect it suggested, and the +guides tapped their teeth with their forefingers when they looked in that +direction; but it was suggested by a more sanguine person that its form +and very watery look suggested a Band of Hope. An insinuating smell of +savoury soup was wafted up gently from below-- + + Stealing and giving odour. + +We took courage; then descended to the tent, and took sustenance. + +There was no difficulty experienced in making an early start the next day, +and the moment the grey light allowed us to see our way we set off. On +such occasions, when the mind is strung up to a high pitch of excitement, +odd and trivial little details and incidents fix themselves indelibly on +the memory. I can recall as distinctly now, as if it had only happened a +moment ago, the exact tone of voice in which Burgener, on looking out of +the tent, announced that the weather would do. Burgener and Kaspar Maurer +were now our guides, for our old enemy with the family ties had been paid +off and sent away with a flea in his ear--an almost unnecessary adjunct, as +anyone who had slept in the same tent with him could testify. +Notwithstanding that Maurer was far from well, and rather weak, we mounted +rapidly at first, for the way was by this time familiar enough, and we all +meant business. + +(M97) + +Our position now was this. By our exploration on the last occasion we had +ascertained that it was possible to ascend to a great height on the main +mass of the mountain. From the slope of the rocks, and from the shape of +the mountain, we felt sure that the final crest would be easy enough. We +had then to find a way still up the face, from the point where we had +turned back on our last attempt, to some point on the final ridge of the +mountain. The rocks on this part we had never been able to examine very +closely, for it is necessary to cross well over to the south-eastern face +while ascending from the ridge between the Aiguille du Dru and the +Aiguille Verte. A great projecting buttress of rock, some two or three +hundred feet in height, cuts off the view of that part of the mountain +over which we now hoped to make our way. By turning up straight behind +this buttress, we hoped to hit off and reach the final crest just above +the point where it merges into the precipitous north-eastern wall visible +from the Chapeau. This part of the mountain can only be seen from the very +head of the Glacier de la Charpoua just under the mass of the Aiguille +Verte. But this point of view is too far off for accurate observations, +and the strip of mountain was practically, therefore, a _terra incognita_ +to us. + +(M98) + +We followed the gully running up from the head of the glacier towards the +ridge above mentioned, keeping well to the left. Before long it was +necessary to cross the gully on to the main peak. To make the topography +clearer a somewhat prosaic and domestic simile may be employed. The +Aiguille du Dru and the Aiguille Verte are connected by a long sharp +ridge, towards which we were now climbing; and this ridge is let in as it +were into the south-eastern side of the Aiguille du Dru, much as a comb +may be stuck into the middle of a hairbrush, the latter article +representing the main peak. Here we employed the ladder which had been +placed in the right position the day previously. Right glad were we to see +the rickety old structure which had now spent four years on the mountain, +and was much the worse for it. It creaked and groaned dismally under our +weight and ran sharp splinters into us at all points of contact, but yet +there was a certain companionship about the old ladder, and we seemed +almost to regret that it was not destined to share more in our prospective +success. A few steps on and we came to a rough cleft some five-and-twenty +feet in depth, which had to be descended. A double rope was fastened to a +projecting crag, and we swung ourselves down as if we were barrels of +split peas going into a ship's hold; then to the ascent again, and the +excitement waxed stronger as we drew nearer to the doubtful part of the +mountain. Still, we did not anticipate insuperable obstacles; for I think +we were possessed with a determination to succeed, which is a sensation +often spoken of as a presentiment of success. A short climb up an easy +broken gully, and of a sudden we seemed to be brought to a standstill. A +little ledge at our feet curled round a projecting crag on the left. "What +are we to do now?" said Burgener, but with a smile on his face that left +no doubt as to the answer. He lay flat down on the ledge and wriggled +round the projection, disappearing suddenly from view as if the rock had +swallowed him up. A shout proclaimed that his expectations had not been +deceived, and we were bidden to follow; and follow we did, sticking to the +flat face of the rock with all our power, and progressing like the skates +down the glass sides of an aquarium tank. When the last man joined us we +found ourselves all huddled together on a very little ledge indeed, while +an overhanging rock above compelled us to assume the anomalous attitude +enforced on the occupant of a little-ease dungeon. What next? An eager +look up solved part of the doubt. "There is the way," said Burgener, +leaning back to get a view. "Oh, indeed," we answered. No doubt there was +a way, and we were glad to hear that it was possible to get up it. The +attractions of the route consisted of a narrow flat gully plastered up +with ice, exceeding straight and steep and crowned at the top with a +pendulous mass of enormous icicles. The gully resembled a half-open book +standing up on end. Enthusiasts in rock-climbing who have ascended the +Riffelhorn from the Grner Glacier side will have met with a similar +gully, but, as a rule, free from ice, which, in the present instance, +constituted the chief difficulty. The ice, filling up the receding angle +from top to bottom, rendered it impossible to find hand-hold on the rocks, +and it was exceedingly difficult to cut steps in such a place, for the +slabs of ice were prone to break away entire. However, the guides said +they could get up, and asked us to keep out of the way of chance fragments +of ice which might fall down as they ascended. So we tucked ourselves away +on one side, and they fell to as difficult a business as could well be +imagined. The rope was discarded, and slowly they worked up, their backs +and elbows against one sloping wall, their feet against the other. But the +angle was too wide to give security to this position, the more especially +that with shortened axes they were compelled to hack out enough of the ice +to reveal the rock below. In such places the ice is but loosely adherent, +being raised up from the face much as pie-crust dissociates itself from +the fruit beneath under the influence of the oven. Strike lightly with the +axe, and a hollow sound is yielded without much impression on the ice; +strike hard, and the whole mass breaks away. But the latter method is the +right one to adopt, though it necessitates very hard work. No steps are +really reliable when cut in ice of this description. + +(M99) + +The masses of ice, coming down harder and harder as they ascended without +intermission, showed how they were working, and the only consolation that +we had during a time that we felt to be critical, was that the guides were +not likely to expend so much labour unless they thought that some good +result would come of it. Suddenly there came a sharp shout and cry; then a +crash as a great slab of ice, falling from above, was dashed into pieces +at our feet and leaped into the air; then a brief pause, and we knew not +what would happen next. Either the gully had been ascended or the guides +had been pounded, and failure here might be failure altogether. It is true +that Hartley and I had urged the guides to find a way some little distance +to the right of the line on which they were now working; but they had +reported that, though easy below, the route we had pointed out was +impossible above.(5) A faint scratching noise close above us, as of a +mouse perambulating behind a wainscot. We look up. It is the end of a +rope. We seize it, and our pull from below is answered by a triumphant +yell from above as the line is drawn taut. Fastening the end around my +waist, I started forth. The gully was a scene of ruin, and I could hardly +have believed that two axes in so short a time could have dealt so much +destruction. Nowhere were the guides visible, and in another moment there +was a curious sense of solitariness as I battled with the obstacles, aided +in no small degree by the rope. The top of the gully was blocked up by a +great cube of rock, dripping still where the icicles had just been broken +off. The situation appeared to me to demand deliberation, though it was +not accorded. "Come on," said voices from above. "Up you go," said a voice +from below. I leaned as far back as I could, and felt about for a +hand-hold. There was none. Everything seemed smooth. Then right, then +left; still none. So I smiled feebly to myself, and called out, "Wait a +minute." This was of course taken as an invitation to pull vigorously, +and, struggling and kicking like a spider irritated by tobacco smoke, I +topped the rock and lent a hand on the rope for Hartley to follow. Then we +learnt that a great mass of ice had broken away under Maurer's feet while +they were in the gully, and that he must have fallen had not Burgener +pinned him to the rock with one hand. From the number of times that this +escape was described to us during that day and the next, I am inclined to +think that it was rather a near thing. At the time, and often since, I +have questioned myself as to whether we could have got up this passage +without the rope let down from above. I think either of us could have done +it in time with a companion. It was necessary for two to be in the gully +at the same time, to assist each other. It was necessary also to discard +the rope, which in such a place could only be a source of danger. But no +amateur should have tried the passage on that occasion without confidence +in his own powers, and without absolute knowledge of the limit of his own +powers. If the gully had been free from ice it would have been much +easier. + +(M100) + +"The worst is over now," said Burgener. I was glad to hear it, but, +looking upwards, had my doubts. The higher we went the bigger the rocks +seemed to be. Still there was a way, and it was not so very unlike what I +had, times out of mind, pictured to myself in imagination. Another tough +scramble and we stood on a comparatively extensive ledge. With elation we +observed that we had now climbed more than half of the only part of the +mountain of the nature of which we were uncertain. A few steps on and +Burgener grasped me suddenly by the arm. "Do you see the great red rock up +yonder?" he whispered, hoarse with excitement--"in ten minutes we shall be +there and on the arte, and then----" Nothing could stop us now; but a +feverish anxiety to see what lay beyond, to look on the final slope which +we knew must be easy, impelled us on, and we worked harder than ever to +overcome the last few obstacles. The ten minutes expanded into something +like thirty before we really reached the rock. Of a sudden the mountain +seemed to change its form. For hours we had been climbing the hard, dry +rocks. Now these appeared suddenly to vanish from under our feet, and once +again our eyes fell on snow which lay thick, half hiding, half revealing, +the final slope of the ridge. A glance along it showed that we had not +misjudged. Even the cautious Maurer admitted that, as far as we could see, +all appeared promising. And now, with the prize almost within our grasp, a +strange desire to halt and hang back came on. Burgener tapped the rock +with his axe, and we seemed somehow to regret that the way in front of us +must prove comparatively easy. Our foe had almost yielded, and it appeared +something like cruelty to administer the final _coup de grce_. We could +already anticipate the half-sad feeling with which we should reach the top +itself. It needed but little to make the feeling give way. Some one cried +"Forwards," and instantly we were all in our places again, and the +leader's axe crashed through the layers of snow into the hard blue ice +beneath. A dozen steps, and then a short bit of rock scramble; then more +steps along the south side of the ridge, followed by more rock, and the +ridge beyond, which had been hidden for a minute or two, stretched out +before us again as we topped the first eminence. Better and better it +looked as we went on. "See there," cried Burgener suddenly, "the actual +top!" + +(M101) + +There was no possibility of mistaking the two huge stones we had so often +looked at from below. They seemed, in the excitement of the moment, misty +and blurred for a brief space, but grew clear again as I passed my hand +over my eyes and seemed to swallow something. A few feet below the +pinnacles and on the left was one of those strange arches formed by a +great transverse boulder, so common near the summits of these aiguilles, +and through the hole we could see blue sky. Nothing could lay beyond, and, +still better, nothing could be above. On again, while we could scarcely +stand still in the great steps the leader set his teeth to hack out. Then +there came a short troublesome bit of snow scramble, where the heaped-up +cornice had fallen back from the final rock. There we paused for a moment, +for the summit was but a few feet from us, and Hartley, who was ahead, +courteously allowed me to unrope and go on first. In a few seconds I +clutched at the last broken rocks, and hauled myself up on to the sloping +summit. There for a moment I stood alone gazing down on Chamouni. The +holiday dream of five years was accomplished; the Aiguille du Dru was +climbed. Where in the wide world will you find a sport able to yield +pleasure like this? + +Mountaineers are often asked, "What did you do when you got to the top?" +With regard to this peak the same question has often been put to me, and I +have often answered it, but, it must be confessed, always suppressing one +or two facts. I do not know why I should conceal them now any longer, the +more especially as I think there is a moral to be drawn from my +experience, or I would still keep it locked up. I had tried so hard and so +long to get up this little peak, that some reaction of mind was not +improbable; but it took a turn which I had never before and have never +since experienced in the slightest degree. For a second or two--it cannot +have been longer--all the past seemed blotted out, all consciousness of +self, all desire of life was lost, and I was seized with an impulse almost +incontrollable to throw myself down the vertical precipice which lay +immediately at my feet. I know not now, though the feeling is still and +always will be intensely vivid, how it was resisted, but at the sound of +the voices below the faculties seemed to return each to its proper place, +and with the restoration of the mental balance the momentary idea of +violently overturning the physical balance vanished. What has happened to +one may have happened to others. It appeared to me quite different from +what is known as mountain vertigo. In fact, I never moved at all from +where I stood, and awoke, as it were, to find myself looking calmly down +the identical place. It may be that the mental equilibrium under similar +circumstances has not always been so fortunately restored, and that thus +calamities on the mountains may have taken place. In another minute the +rest of the party ascended, and we were all reposing on the hard-won +summit. + +(M102) + +Far below a little white speck representing Couttet's Hotel was well in +view, and towards this we directed our telescope. We could make out a few +individuals wandering listlessly about, but there did not seem to be much +excitement; in front of the Imperial Hotel, however, we were pleased to +imagine that we saw somebody gazing in our direction. Accordingly, with +much pomp and ceremony, the stick--which it may be stated was borrowed +without leave--was fixed into a little cleft and tightly wedged in; then, +to my horror, Burgener, with many chuckles at his own foresight and at the +completeness of his equipment, produced from a concealed pocket a piece of +scarlet flannel strongly suggestive of a baby's under garment, and tied it +on to the stick. I protested in vain; in a moment the objectionable rag +was floating proudly in the breeze. However, it seemed to want airing. +Determined that our ascent should be placed beyond doubt in the eyes of +any subsequent visitors, we ransacked our stores, and were enabled to +leave the following articles:--One half-pint bottle containing our names, +preserved by a paper stopper from the inclemency of the weather; two +wooden wedges of unknown use, two ends of string, three burnt fusees, +divers chips, one stone man of dwarf proportions, the tenpenny stick, and +the infant's petticoat. + +There is a popular belief that the main object of climbing up a mountain +is to get a view from the top. It may therefore be a matter of regret to +some, but it will certainly be a matter of great congratulation to many +others, that of the view obtained I can say but little. Chamouni looked +very nice, however, from this distance. Turning towards the Aiguille Verte +we were astonished to notice that this great mass appeared to tower far +less above us than might have been expected from its much greater height +and close proximity. On the other hand, the lower south-eastern peak of +the Aiguille du Dru seemed much more below us than we had imagined would +be the case. It is a moot point in mountaineering circles how much +difference between two closely contiguous points is necessary in order +that they may be rated as individual peaks. At the time we estimated the +difference between the two peaks of our Aiguille to be about 80 feet, but +Hartley, who has since climbed the lower point, estimates that the +difference between the two must be at the very least 120 feet. Still, the +comparative meagreness of the panorama did not affect our spirits, nor +detract in any appreciable degree from the completeness of the expedition. +The Aiguille du Dru is essentially an expedition only for those who love a +good climb for climbing's sake. Every step, every bit of scrambling, +was--and is still--a pleasure. + +(M103) + +We had reached the top at half-past twelve, so that our estimate of the +time required had been a very accurate one. After spending three-quarters +of an hour on the summit we turned to the descent with regret, and +possessed with much the same feeling as a schoolboy on Black Monday, who +takes an affectionate farewell of all sorts of inanimate objects. Very +difficult the descent proved to be. We were so anxious, now that our +efforts had been finally crowned with success, that the whole expedition +should pass off without the least misadventure, that we went much more +slowly, and took more elaborate precautions than under ordinary +circumstances would have been deemed necessary. From the start we had +agreed that, whatever the hour, nothing should persuade us to hurry the +least in the descent. On such mountains, however, as the Aiguille du Dru +it is easier on the whole to get down than to get up, especially if a good +supply of spare rope be included in the equipment. At three places we +found it advisable to fix ropes in order to assist our progress. It was +curious to observe how marvellously the aspect of the mountain was changed +as we looked down the places up which we had climbed so recently; and +there were so many deviations from the straight line, that the way was +very difficult to find at all. Indeed, Burgener alone could hit it off +with certainty, and, though last on the rope, directed the way without +ever making the slightest mistake at any part. We followed precisely the +same route as in ascending, and noticed few if any places where this route +was capable of improvement, or even of alteration. + +Not till nearly five o'clock did we regain our abandoned store of +provisions; the sight of the little white packets, and especially of a +certain can of tinned meat, seen at a considerable distance below, incited +us to great exertions, for since ten in the morning we had partaken of +nothing but a sandwich crushed out of all recognisable shape. Ignoring the +probability of being benighted on the rocks, we caroused merrily on +seltzer water and the contents of the tin can. It seemed almost a pity to +quit for good these familiar rocks on which we had spent such a glorious +time, and the sun was sinking low behind the Brvent range, and the rocks +were all darkened in the grey shadows, before the guides could persuade us +to pack up and resume our journey. Very little time was lost in descending +when we had once started, but before we had reached a certain little +sloping ledge furnished with a collection of little pointed stones, and +known as the breakfast place, the darkness had overtaken us. The glacier +lay only a few feet below, when the mist which had been long threatening +swept up and closed in around us. The crevasses at the head of the glacier +were so complicated, and the snow bridges so fragile, that we thought it +wiser not to go on at once, but to wait till the snow should have had time +to harden. So we sat down under an overhanging rock, and made believe that +we enjoyed the fun. Hartley wedged a stone under his waist, as if he were +the hind wheel of a waggon going uphill, and imitated the inaction and +attitude of a person going to sleep. The guides retired to a little +distance and, as is their wont when inactive, fell to a warm discussion +over the dimensions of the different chamois they had shot, each of course +outvying the other in turn. The game has this merit at least, when there +is plenty of spare time at disposal, that if the players only begin low +enough down in the animal scale it is practically unlimited. + +(M104) + +Before long the situation ceased to be amusing, as we found that we had +managed to get wet through in the gully, and that the slowly falling +temperature was exceedingly unpleasant. I converted a cowhide knapsack +into a temporary foot-warmer, much to the detriment of such articles of +food as were still stored in its recesses, and tucked a boot under each +arm to keep the leather from hardening. Then we fell to discussing what we +would have next day for breakfast, and for some two hours found a certain +amount of solace in disputing over the merits of divers dainty dishes. +Even this fertile subject failed at length to give adequate satisfaction. +The ledge became colder and colder, and new spiky little points appeared +to develop every moment. The argument of the sportsmen grew fainter, and +we became slowly chilled through. For a while the mind became more active, +but less logical, and fanciful visions crowded thickly through it. On such +occasions it is seldom possible to fix the thoughts on events immediately +past. To my drowsy gaze the mist seemed to take the form of our native +fogs, while the condition of the ledge suggested obtrusively a newly +macadamised road. Almost at will I could transport myself in imagination +to the metropolis I had so recently left, or back again to the wild little +ledge on which we were stranded. Following up the train of sensations, it +was easy to conceive how reason might fail altogether, and how gradually, +as the senses became numbed one by one, delirium might supervene from cold +and exposure--as has often happened to arctic travellers. The thoughts flew +off far afield, and pictured the exact contrast of the immediate +surroundings. I saw a brilliantly lighted street with long rows of flaming +lamps. The windows of the clubhouses shone out as great red and orange +squares and oblongs. Carriages dashed by, cabs oscillated down the roads. +Elegantly attired youths about to commence their wakeful period (why are +men who only know the seamy side of life called "men of the world"? Is it +so bad a world, my masters?) were strolling off to places of +entertainment. A feeble, ragged creature crept along in the shadows. A +worn, bright-eyed girl, just free from work which had begun at early dawn, +dragged her aching limbs homewards, but stopped a moment to glance with +envy at a mamma and two fair daughters crossing the pavement to their +carriage; light, life, bustle, crowding everywhere. Faster and faster +follow the shifting scenes till the visions jostle and become confused----A +crack, a distant sound of a falling shower of stones, a hiss as they fall +on to the snow slopes below. The eyes open, but the mind only half awakes, +and almost immediately dreams again, with changed visions of comfortable +rooms, in which the flickering light of a coal fire now throws up, now +half conceals the close-drawn curtains, or the familiar form of books and +pictures; visions of some formless individual with slippered feet disposed +at judicious distance from the blazing coals, of soft carpets and deep +arm-chairs moulded by long use into the precise intaglio adapted to the +human frame; visions of a warm flood of subdued light, of things steaming +gently with curling wreaths of vapour. All these passed in order before +the mind, called up by the incantation of discomfort out of the cauldron +of misery, like unto the regal display manifested to that impulsive and +somewhat over-married individual, Macbeth. + +(M105) + +But before long it was most difficult to picture these pleasant sights so +vividly as to become altogether oblivious of an exceedingly chilly +personality, and ultimately human nature triumphed, and the _ego_ in a +rather frozen state became again paramount. I had begun to calculate the +number of hours we might have to remain where we were, and the probable +state in which we should be next morning, when of a sudden the mist +lifted, and disclosed the glacier just below feebly lit up by the rising +moon. We sprang instantly to our feet, almost as instantaneously returning +to our former positions by reason of the exceeding stiffness and cramp +begotten of the cold. The guides, leaving their discussion at a point +where the last speaker had, in imagination, shot a chamois about the size +of an elephant, descended to inspect the ice. The snow bridges were +pronounced secure, and we were soon across the crevasses, but found to our +disgust that we had rather overdone the waiting. The slope was hard +frozen, and in the dim light it was found necessary to cut steps nearly +the whole way down the glacier. For five hours and a half were we thus +engaged, and did not reach our camp till 2.30 A.M. Never did the tent look +so comfortable as on that morning. If, as was remarked of Mrs. Gamp's +apartment in Kingsgate Street, High Holborn, to the contented mind a +cottage is a palace, so to the weary frame may a tent be a luxurious +hotel. We rushed over the loose rocks by the snout of the glacier, and ran +helter-skelter for our bivouac. From the circumstance that the invariable +struggle for the best pillow was usually brief, and that one of the party +was discovered next morning wrong end foremost in his sleeping bag with +his boots still on his feet, I am disposed to think that we were not long +in dropping off to sleep; but the unstudied attitudes of the party +suggested rather four revellers returning from a Greenwich dinner in a +four-wheeled cab over a cobbled road than a company of sober mountaineers. +By seven o'clock, however, the predominant thought of breakfast so +asserted itself that we woke up and looked out. + +(M106) + +The first object that met our gaze was a large sheet of paper, affixed to +the rock just in front of the tent, and bearing the simple inscription +"Hooray!" This led us to surmise that our success was already known below; +for the author of the legend had returned to Chamouni the previous +evening, after having seen us on the summit. To each man was apportioned +the burden he should bear of the camp equipage. Such a collection of pots +and pans and other paraphernalia had we amassed gradually during our stay, +that our appearance as we crossed the glacier suggested rather that of +certain inhabitants of Lagado mentioned in Gulliver's voyage to Laputa. By +nine o'clock we had deposited our burdens at the Montanvert and, +disregarding the principles of the sages above referred to, ventured to +corrode our lungs by articulating our wants to the landlord. This worthy +received us with more than his usual affability, for the tidings of our +success had in truth already reached the inn. A bottle of conical form was +produced, the cork drawn with a monstrous explosion, and some very +indifferent fluid poured out as a token of congratulation. In spite of, +perhaps in consequence of, these early libations, we skipped down the +well-worn and somewhat unsavoury path with great nimbleness, and in an +hour or so found ourselves on the level path leading along the valley to +Chamouni by the English church. There, I am pleased to record, the first +man to congratulate us was our old friend M. Gabriel Lopp, without whose +kindly sympathy and constant encouragement I doubt if we should have ever +persevered to our successful end. It mattered little to us that but few of +the Chamouni guides gave us credit for having really ascended the peak, +for most of them maintained that we had merely reached a point on the +south-east face of the lower summit; indeed, to those not so familiar with +the details of the mountain as we were, it might well seem hard to realise +that the crag jutting out on the right, as seen from Chamouni, is really +the actual summit. + +Such is the record of the most fascinating rock climb with which I am +acquainted. From beginning to end it is interesting. There is no wearisome +tramping over loose moraine and no great extent of snow-field to traverse. +The rocks are wondrously firm and big, and peculiarly unlike those on +other mountains, even on many of the aiguilles about Chamouni. + +(M107) + +An odd code of mountaineering morality has gradually sprung into +existence, and ideas as to what is fair and sportsmanlike in mountain +climbing are somewhat peculiar. People speak somewhat vaguely of +"artificial aid," and are wont to criticise in very severe language the +employment of such assistance, at the same time finding it rather hard, if +driven into a corner, to define what they mean by the term. It would seem +that artificial aid may signify the driving of iron pegs into rocks when +nature has provided insufficient hand or foot-hold. Such a proceeding is +considered highly improper. To cut a step in ice is right, but to chisel +out a step on rock is in the highest degree unjustifiable. Again, a ladder +may be used without critical animadversion to bridge a crevasse, but its +employment over a rock cleft is tabooed. A certain amount of +mountaineering equipment is not only considered proper, but those who go +on the mountains without it are spoken of with great asperity, and called +very hard names; but the equipment must not include anything beyond +hobnails, rope, axes, and possibly a ladder for a crevasse; any other +contrivance is sniffed at contemptuously as artificial aid. Rockets and +such like are usually only mentioned in order to be condemned; while +grapnels, chains, and crampons are held to be the inventions of the fiend. +Why these unwritten laws should exist in such an imaginary code it is hard +to see. Perhaps we must not consider too curiously on the matter. For my +own part, if it could be proved that by no possible means could a given +bad passage be traversed without some such aid, nor turned by another +route, I should not hesitate to adopt any mechanical means to the desired +end. As a matter of fact, in the Alps scarcely any such places exist for +those who have taken the trouble to learn how to climb, and there are none +on the Aiguille du Dru. We used our ladder often enough in exploring the +mountain, but when we actually ascended it we employed it in one place +only, saving thereby at least an hour of invaluable time. Indeed, +subsequent explorers have found such to be the case; and Mr. W. E. +Davidson, in a recent ascent of the mountain, was able to find his way +without invoking the assistance of either ladder or fixed ropes. In a +marvellously short space of time, too, did he get up and down the peak on +which we had spent hours without number. Still, this is the fate of all +mountains. The mountaineers who make the third ascent are, usually, able +to sweep away the blushing honours that the first climbers might fondly +hope they had invested the mountain with. A word, a stroke of the pen, +will do it. The peaks do not yield gradually from their high estate, but +fall, like Lucifer, from summit to ultimate destination, and are suddenly +converted from "the most difficult mountain in the Alps" to "Oh yes; a +fine peak, but not a patch upon Mount So-and-so." It is but with the +mountains as with other matters of this life, save in this respect, that +once deposed they never can hope to reign again supreme. Statements +concerning our fellow-creatures when of a depreciatory, and still more +when of a scandal-flavoured, nature, are always believed by nine people +out of ten to be, if not absolutely true, at any rate well-founded enough +for repetition. A different estimate of the standard of veracity to be met +with in this world is assumed when the remarks are favourable. Even so may +it be, in some instances, with the mountains. The prestige that clings to +a maiden peak is like the bark on a wand: peel it off, and it cannot be +replaced; the bough withers, and is cast to one side, its character +permanently altered. + +(M108) + +We would fain have rested that evening, but the edict went forth that +festivities were to take place in honour of the ascent, and, to tell the +truth, that evening was not the least fatiguing part of the whole affair. +The opportunity was too good to be lost, especially as the customary mode +of testifying congratulations by firing off divers podgy little cannons, +had been omitted. Preparations were made for a display of fireworks on a +large scale. Some six rockets of moderately soaring ambition were placed +in order on the grass-plot in front of the hotel. A skilful pyrotechnist, +who knew the right end to which to apply the match, was placed in charge, +and fussed about a great deal. A very little table covered with a white +cloth, and on which were displayed several bottles, reminded the crowd of +loafers who assembled expectant as the darkness came on, that a carousal +was meditated. At last the word was given, and the pyrotechnist, beaming +with pride, advanced bearing a lighted taper attached to the end of a +stick of judicious length. A hush of expectancy followed, and experienced +persons retired to sheltered corners. The fireworks behaved as they +usually do. They fizzed prodigiously, and went off in the most unexpected +directions. One rocket, rather weak in the waist, described, after a +little preliminary spluttering, an exceedingly sharp, corkscrew-like +series of curves, and then turned head-over-heels with astounding rapidity +on the lawn, like a rabbit shot through the head, and there lay flat, +spluttering out its gunpowdery vitals. Another was perfectly unmoved at +the initial application of the kindling flame, but then suddenly began to +swell up in an alarming way, causing the pyrotechnist, who had no previous +experience of this phenomenon, to retreat somewhat hastily. However, one +of the rockets rose to a height of some five-and-twenty feet, much to the +operator's satisfaction, and we were all able to congratulate him warmly +on his contribution to our entertainment as we emerged from our places of +security. + +(M109) + +A series of smaller explosions, resulting from the drawing of corks, was +the next item in the programme, and appeared to give more general +satisfaction. Then the bell rang, and the master of the ceremonies +announced that the ball was about to commence. Some over-zealous person +had unfortunately sought to improve the condition of the floor for +dancing, by tracing an arabesque pattern on the boards with water, using +for the purpose a tin pot with a convenient leak at the bottom. It +followed that the exercise of waltzing in thick boots was more laborious +than graceful. Without, the villagers crowded at the windows to gaze upon +our fantastic gyrations. But little formality had been observed in +organising the ball; in fact, the ceremony of issuing cards of invitation +had been replaced by ringing a bell and displaying a placard on which it +was announced that the dance would commence at nine o'clock. However, the +enjoyment appeared to be none the less keen, for all that the dancers were +breathing fairly pure air, taking no champagne, and not fulfilling any +social duty. But for the costumes the gathering might have been mistaken +for a fashionable entertainment. All the recognised types to be met with +in a London ball-room were there. The conversation, judging from the +fragments overheard, did not appear to be below the average standard of +intellectuality. The ladies, who came from the various hotels of Chamouni, +displayed, as most English girls do--_pace_ the jealous criticism of +certain French writers, more smart than observant--their curious faculty of +improvising ball costume exactly suitable to the occasion. There was a +young man who had a pair of white gloves, and was looked upon with awe in +consequence, and who, in the intervals of the dances, slid about in an +elegant manner instead of walking. There was a middle-aged person of +energetic temperament who skipped and hopped like the little hills, and +kept everything going--including the refreshments. There was a captious and +cynical person, who frowned horribly, and sat in a corner in the verandah +with an altogether superior air, and who, in support of the character, +smoked a cigar of uncertain botanical pedigree provided by the hotel, +which disagreed with him and increased his splenetic mood. Elsewhere, at +more fashionable gatherings, he would have leaned against doorposts, +cultivated a dejected demeanour, and got very much in other people's way. +There was a pianist who was a very clever artist, and found out at once +the notes that yielded no response on the instrument, and who, like his +more fashionable analogue, regularly required stimulants after playing a +waltz. It mattered little what he played--polka, waltz, galop, or +mazurka--whatever the tune, the couples all rotated more or less slowly +about; so it was evidently an English gathering. At such impromptu dances +there is always a strong desire to show off musical talent. No sooner did +the hireling pianist desist than a little cluster gathered around the +instrument, assured him that he must be tired, and volunteered to play. +Finally he was induced to rest, and a young lady who knew "Rousseau's +Dream," or some tune very like it, triumphantly seated herself and +favoured the company with that air in waltz time, whereat the unsuccessful +candidates for the seat smiled scornfully at each other, and rolled up +their eyes, and would not dance. So they, in turn, triumphed, and the +young lady blushed, and said she had never seen such a stupid set of +people, and went away and sat by her parents, and thought the world was +indeed hollow. The hireling came back, and all went on merrily again. + +(M110) + +In the yard outside the crowd increased. In the midst of the throng could +be seen Maurer, resplendent in a shirt the front of which was like unto a +petrified bath-towel, wearing a coat many sizes too large, his face +beaming with smiles and shining from the effects of drinks offered in the +spirit of good fellowship on all sides. Close by stood Burgener, +displaying similar physiognomical phenomena, his natural free movements +hampered by the excessive tightness of some garments with which an admirer +of smaller girth had presented him. Let us do justice to the guides of +Chamouni, who might not unnaturally have found some cause for +disappointment that the peak had been captured by strangers in the land. +On this occasion, at any rate, they offered the hand of good fellowship, +and listened with admiring attention while our guides, in an unknown +tongue, expatiated on the difficulties and dangers they had successfully +overcome--difficulties which did not appear to become less by frequent +repetition. Let us leave them there. They did their work thoroughly well, +and might be pardoned, under all the circumstances, for a little swagger. + +(M111) + +The days grow shorter apace. The sun has barely time to make the ice peaks +glisten, ere the cold shadows creep over again. Snow lies thick on ledge +and cranny, and only the steepest mountain faces show dark through the +powdery veil. Bleak night winds whistle around the beetling crags and +whirl and chevy the wreathing snow-clouds, making weird music in these +desolate fastnesses, while the glaciers and snow-fields collect fresh +strength against the time when their relentless destroyer shall attack +them once again at an advantage. The scene is changed. The clear air, the +delicate purity of the Alpine tints are but recollections, and have given +way to fog, mist, slush, and smoke-laden atmosphere. Would you recall +these mountain pictures? Draw close the curtains, stir the coals into an +indignant crackling blaze, and fashion, in the rising smoke, the mountain +vista. How easy it is to unlock the storehouse of the mind where these +images are stowed away! how these scenes crowd back into the mind! What +keener charm than to pass in review the memories of these simple, +wholesome pleasures; to see again, as clear as in the reality, every +ledge, every hand and foot-hold; to feel the fingers tingle and the +muscles instinctively contract at the recollection of some tough scramble +on rock or glacier? The pleasures of the Alps endure long after the actual +experience, and are but invested; whether the interest can be derived by +any one but the actual investor is a matter for others to decide. For my +own part, I can only wish that any one could possibly derive a hundredth +part of the pleasure in reading, that I have had in writing, of our +adventures. + + + + + + CHAPTER VII. + + + BYE-DAYS IN ALPINE MIDLANDS + + + 1. _A Pardonable Digression._ + + On well-ordered intellects--The drawbacks of accurate + memory--Sub-Alpine walks: their admirers and their + recommendations--The "High Level Route"--The Ruinette--An infallible + prescription for ill-humour--A climb and a meditation on grass + slopes--The agile person's acrobatic feats--The psychological + effects of sunrise--The ascent of the Ruinette--We return to our + mutton at Arolla--A vision on the hill-side. + + 2. _A Little Maiden._ + + Saas in the olden days--A neglected valley--The mountains drained + dry--A curious omission--The Portienhorn, and its good points as a + mountain--The chef produces a masterpiece--An undesirable tenement + to be let unfurnished--An evicted family--A rapid act of + mountaineering--On the pleasures of little climbs--The various + methods of making new expeditions on one mountain--On the + mountaineer who has nothing to learn, and his consequent + ignorance. + + + + + 1. _A Pardonable Digression._ + + +There are some, and they are considered, on the whole, fortunate by less +highly gifted individuals, who possess minds as accurately divided up into +receptacles for the storage of valuable material as a honeycomb. Every +scrap of information acquired by the owner of such a well-ordered +intellect is duly sifted, purged, ticketed, and finally pigeon-holed in +its proper cell, whence it could undoubtedly be drawn out at any future +time for reference, were it not for the fact that the pigeon-holes are all +so very much alike that the geometrically minded man commonly forgets the +number of the shelf to which he has relegated his item of knowledge. He +need not really regret that this should be the case; persons with this +exceedingly well-ordered form of mind are apt to be a little too precise +for ordinary folk, and may even by the captious be rated as dull +creatures. A love for the beautiful is not usually associated with +excessively tidy habits of mind. An artist's studio in apple-pie order +would seem as unnatural as a legal document drawn up on sthetic +principles. If the truth be told, the picturesque is always associated +with--not to mince matters--the dirty; and the city of Hygeia, however +commendably free from the latter quality, would be but a dreary and +unattractive town. Nor would it, as seems to be sometimes supposed, be +quite a paradise to that terrible and minatory person, the sanitarian. On +the contrary, he would probably be found dining with the undertaker--off +approved viands--and the pair would be bewailing the hard times. + +(M112) + +I knew a man once who was marvellously proud of a certain little cabinet, +devoted to the reception of keys, all of which were arranged in a +remarkably orderly manner. He was fond of demonstrating the system, which +seemed, in truth, highly business-like; but I lost faith one day in his +method, on finding that he did not know the locks which the several keys +were constructed respectively to open. It is with the mind's eye as with +the bodily eye. We are able only to focus sharply one thing at a time, and +the beauty of a given view, from the physiological standpoint, consists in +the softened indistinctness of all objects out of the range of absolute +focus--a fact of which the early Florentine artists evinced a curious +disregard, and which their modern imitators, who, at least in our +scientific age, ought to know something of the elementary laws of optics, +render themselves somewhat ridiculous by servilely copying. So is it also +with the memory. A certain indistinctness of detail often renders the +recollection even more pleasing; we may be able only to reproduce from the +pigeon-hole, as it were, a rather indistinct, blotted-in impression, but +as the artist would be fully justified in working up such a study into a +finished picture, so may the writer be allowed also to elaborate from his +mental sketch a complete work. Now, in wandering in those numerous +districts in the mountains of Switzerland which cannot properly be classed +as sub-Alpine, and yet are not lofty enough to warrant their explorer in +dignifying his rambles by the term "climbing," one great charm consists in +the fact that, while everything is pleasing, there is no distinct +objective point that we are bidden to admire. The critical tendency is a +very constant factor in human character, and the chief business the +professional critic has to learn consists in finding out how far he may +legitimately go, and how he may best say what he is called upon to +express. Now even the least critical of our race, the gushing section of +humanity, feel irresistibly disposed to cavil at anything they are told +they must admire. Perhaps, though, it is not the critical attributes which +come out on such occasions in them. Possibly it is but an example of that +still more uniformly found characteristic of man and woman, a quality +which, in the process of the descent of our species, has been handed down +without the least alteration from such lower animals as the mule for +instance, and for which, oddly enough, we have no proper term in our +language this side of the water, but know it as "cussedness." + +(M113) + +Most travellers hear with a slight feeling of relief, on arriving at their +destination and inquiring what there is to be seen, that there is nothing +in particular, and the sub-Alpine walker has this charm perpetually with +him. His expedition cannot fail, for it does not aim at any particular +object on the attainment of which it depends whether he considers himself +successful or not. These sub-Alpine walks and rambles form the background, +the setting, the frame, and the surrounding of the more sharply defined +and more memorable high expeditions. Perhaps these are but the sentiments +of advancing mountaineering age; certainly they may be heard most often +from those who have reached that period of life when they no longer pay +heed to wrinkles in their trousers, when they are somewhat exacting in the +matter of club dinners, and when they object strongly to receiving +assistance from younger folk in putting on their overcoats. Howbeit, as we +may recall the statement made in the "Delectus,"-- + + Neque semper arcum + Tendit Apollo, + +even so does the mountaineer occasionally relax his muscles, and find +pleasure in the Alpine midlands. Moreover, the writer feels that the +perpetual breathing of rarefied air may be apt to induce too great a +strain on his readers, and recollects that a piano always tuned to concert +pitch is not so harmonious an instrument as one occasionally unstrung; so +some relief is at times necessary. Contrast, inasmuch as nature provides +it on every hand, we may be sure is a thing for which man has an +instinctive craving; and to my mind, at least, a picture in which rich +colouring is introduced, and where the result of the blending is +harmonious, is more satisfactory than the work which appeals by what I +believe artists would call "tone." The principle applies rather widely. We +may have observed that young ladies of prepossessing appearance love to be +accompanied by dogs of repulsive mien. The costermonger, again, if +possessed, as he always is, of a hoarse voice, is not completely equipped +unless provided with a boy companion capable of sending forth in alternate +measure the shrillest cries which the human larynx is capable of emitting. +Thus may the pair better vaunt their wares, compel attention, and attract +notice. The same objects, at any rate the latter two, influence an author, +and not only in all cases, it would seem, when he is actually engaged in +writing. So our expeditions, now to be described, may be looked upon as +material for contrast, and may be skipped if thought fit--at any rate by +purchasers--without risk of wounding the writer's feelings. + +(M114) + +Some years ago we were travelling over that district of the Alps which to +the true lover of mountain scenery can never become hackneyed--that is, the +stretch of glacier land between Chamouni and Zermatt, first made known by +Messrs. Foster, Jacomb, Winkfield, and others, and known to mountaineers +as the "high-level route." We had reached Monvoisin, then, possibly still, +one of the cosiest and most comfortable little inns to be found among the +mountains. An immense variety of first-rate glacier passes of moderate +difficulty lie between this Val de Bagne and the Arolla valley; the Col de +la Serpentine, the Col Gtroz, the Col de Breney, the Col Chermontane, and +others, all of high interest and varied scenery, tempt the walker +according to his powers. We selected on this occasion the Col du Mont +Rouge, having a design on the bold little peak towering just above the +Col, and known as the Ruinette. This peak, it may be at once mentioned, +was ascended for the first time in 1865 by Mr. Edward Whymper, a +mountaineer who has never ceased happily to add to his spoils and trophies +since in all parts of the globe, and who, unlike most of the clan, has +kept in the front rank from the day he first climbed an Alpine slope. + +(M115) + +We arrived soaked through, and with deplorably short tempers, at the hotel +at Monvoisin. Now tobacco has been vaunted as a palliative to persons in +this emotional state. Liquid remedies, described by the vulgar-minded as +"a drop of something short," or, more tersely, "a wet," have been +recommended as tending to induce a healthier state of mind. But there is +one specific remedy which never fails, and to this by tacit consent we at +once resorted. + +Even as one touch of nature has been stated, on reliable authority, to +make the whole world kin, so may one touch of a lucifer match, if +discreetly applied beneath well-seasoned logs, induce even in the most +irritable and wearied individual a change of feeling and a calm +contentment. As the logs crackled and spluttered, hissing like angry cats, +so did the prescription purge away, if not the evil humours, at any rate +the ill-humour engendered by sore feet and damp raiment, till it vanished +with the smoke up the chimney. As a matter of actual fact, however, it +ought to be stated that the greater part of the smoke at first made its +way into the room. Before long, assisted by a passable dinner, which acts +on such conditions of mind as do the remedies known to the learned in +medicine as "derivatives," we waxed monstrous merry. We laughed heartily +at our own jokes, and with almost equal fervour at those of other people--a +very creditable state of feeling, as any who have associated much with +facetiously disposed folk will be ready to acknowledge. As the evening +wore on, and the fire burnt lower, we became more silent and thoughtful, +watching the pale blue and green tongues of flame licking round the +charred logs. There is a pleasure, too, in this state. No one felt +disposed to break the charm of thoughtfulness in the company by throwing +on fresh fuel. The fire had done its work, had helped matters on, had left +things a little better than it found them--an epitome of a good and useful +life. The embers fell together at last, throwing up but a few short-lived +sparks; nothing remained but the recollection of what had been once so +bright, and a heap of ashes--a fit emblem; for one of the party who was the +life and soul of the expedition can never again join in body with us in +the Alps, or revisit those Alpine midlands he loved so keenly. We rose +from our seats and threw back the curtains from the window. The mists had +vanished, and with them all doubt and all uncertainty, while the stream of +light from the full moon seemed a promise of peace and rest from +elsewhere. + +(M116) + +At an early period of a walk there is always the greatest objection to +putting forth exertion, the result of which has almost immediately to be +undone. That man is indeed robust, and possessed of three times the +ordinary amount of brass, if he fails not to find it distasteful to walk +up a hill at the end of an expedition, or down one at the commencement. +The drawback to the commanding position of the hotel at Monvoisin lies in +the fact that it is absolutely necessary to descend the hill to begin +with, which always seems a sinful waste of energy, seeing that the grass +slopes opposite, which are steep, have immediately afterwards to be +climbed. The natural grass steps looked inviting, but in the language of +the Portuguese dialogue book we found them all either "too long or much +short." One ascent over a grass slope is very much like another, and +description in detail would be as wearisome as the slopes themselves often +prove. Yet it is worthy of notice that there is an art to be acquired even +in climbing grass slopes. We had more than one opportunity on the present +occasion of seeing that persons look supremely ridiculous if they stumble +about, and we noticed also that, like a bowler when he has delivered a +long hop to the off for the third time in one over, the stumbler +invariably inspects the nails in his boots, a proceeding which deceives no +one. It is quite easy to judge of a man's real mountaineering capacity by +the way in which he attacks a steep grass slope. The unskilful person, who +fancies himself perfectly at home amongst the intricacies of an ice-fall, +will often candidly admit that he never can walk with well-balanced +equilibrium on grass, a form of vegetable which, it might be thought in +many instances of self-sufficient mountaineers, would naturally suit them. +There is often real danger in such places, and not infrequently the wise +man will demand the use of the rope, especially when there are any tired +members among the party. There is no better way of learning how to +preserve a proper balance on a slope than by practising on declivities of +moderate steepness, and it is astonishing to find how often those who +think they have little to learn, or, still worse, believe that there is +nothing to learn, will find themselves in difficulties on a mountain-side, +and forced to realise that they have got themselves into a rather +humiliating position. We may have seen before now, all of us, +distinguished cragsmen to whom an ascent of the Weisshorn or Matterhorn +was but a mere stroll, utterly pounded in botanical expeditions after +Edelweiss, and compelled to regain a position of security by very +ungraceful sprawls, or, worse still, have to resort to the unpardonable +alternative of asking for assistance. It is on such places that the skill +born of constant practice is best shown in the peasant as contrasted with +the amateur; but the latter could easily acquire the art, were he not, as +a rule, too high and mighty to do so. It is a great point, too, if the +expedition is to be thoroughly enjoyed, to transport one's self over the +earlier part of the day's climb with the least possible amount of +exertion. The art possibly resembles that which, I am told, is acquired by +those of ill-regulated minds, whom the force of circumstances and the +interests of society compel to exercise themselves for a certain number of +hours daily in that form of unproductive labour exemplified in the machine +known as the treadmill. No doubt the very ardent mountaineer might find +that facilities would be accorded to him during such time as he cannot +visit the Alps of practising this art in the manner indicated. + +(M117) + +Before long, the smooth unbroken snow slope leading up to the Col du Mont +Rouge, glistening like a sheet of amber-coloured satin in the light of +early dawn, came into sight. One of the party, who had complained +throughout of the slow pace at which he had been going, and who was +already far ahead, now went through a singular performance. Conceiving +that he would stimulate us to greater exertion by displaying his own +agility, he suddenly shot forth, as an arrow from the bow, and ran at +great speed on to the snow slope. But he had misjudged the hardness of the +snow. It fell out, therefore, that after two or three curious flounders +his limbs suddenly shot out to all points of the compass. A desperate +effort to recall his members under control resulted only in his suddenly +coiling up into a little round ball, like a spider in a state of +nervousness, and in that shape descending with considerable momentum, and +not a few bumps, down the slope over some knobby stones and on to a +fortunately placed little grass ledge. When we joined him a few minutes +later, he observed unblushingly that he had found a capital place for +breakfast. So have I seen a skater, after performing a few exercises of a +somewhat violent nature, resembling the dances performed by nigger +minstrels wearing excessively long boots, suddenly sit down and instantly +adjust a perfectly correctly applied strap. On resuming our journey the +agile member was firmly secured with a rope, for fear, as we told him, +that he should become possessed with a sudden idea to hunt for a suitable +place for luncheon by resorting to his previous tactics. Somewhat +crestfallen, he took a place in the rear of the caravan, and condescended +to make use of the little notches scraped out by the leader in the hard +snow. + +(M118) + +A few minutes later the full sunlight of early morning burst upon us, and +produced, as it always does on such occasions, a feeling of supreme +contempt for those slothful individuals who had not got up as early as we +had. This moment of exhilaration is often the very best of a whole +expedition, and is apt to lead, I know not why, to an ebullition of +feeling, which usually takes the form of horse-play and practical joking. +A series of gentle slopes led us up to the Col. Our ascent took us +gradually round the base of the Ruinette, and we cast anxious glances to +our right to see if any practicable line of rocks could be made out. The +mountain is tolerably steep from this side, but the rocks are broken and +were bare of snow. On the summit of the Col the party divided, the agile +person and some of the others deciding that they would go straight on to +Arolla, while Burgener and I bespoke the services of the porter, and made +straight for the long buttress of rock running down almost directly to the +Col on the north-west face of the mountain. Half an hour's complicated +scrambling resulted in our attaining a little level plateau of rock on the +ridge. As we looked down on to the great snow-field from which the Gtroz +glacier takes its origin, we perceived, far away, the forms of our +companions looking like a flight of driven grouse about a quarter of a +minute after the sportsman has missed them with both barrels. No doubt +they were enjoying themselves thoroughly, but from our point of view the +sight of some four or five individuals walking along at ten-foot intervals +with bowed heads and plodding gait did not suggest any very consummate +pleasure. Rejoicing, therefore, that they were making nice tracks for us +to follow later in the day, we turned again to the rocks above. Following +always the ridge, we clambered straight up, and found opportunities for +very pretty gymnastics (that is, from our own point of view) on this part +of the mountain. Our object was to select rocks that would give good +practice in climbing, rather than to pick out the easiest possible line, +and as a result we got into more than one difficult place, difficult +enough at any rate to demand much conversation on the part of the guides. +In about three hours from the Col we found ourselves looking over the +arte on to the southern side of the mountain with a very compact and +varied view in all directions. Close by, the long ridge of the Serpentine +formed a fine foreground, and a wide expanse of glacier district made up a +tolerably wild panorama. A few minutes' climbing along the crest landed us +above a deep notch filled in with soft snow. Into this we plunged, and in +another minute or two stood on the summit of the Ruinette. So far as we +knew at the time, the mountain had not previously been ascended from the +northern side, and, indeed, the peak does not appear to be visited nearly +so often as it deserves. Following for the most part the same line as that +taken during the ascent, we regained, in about a couple of hours, the Col. +Here we hunted diligently, seeking what we might devour, and feeling sure +that our friends would have left us something as a reward for our energy. +It transpired, however, subsequently, that the agile person's exertions +had provoked in him such an appetite that there was little if anything to +leave, so we followed the tracks laid out in the snow, noticing with some +concern that one member of the previous party had sunk at every step some +eighteen inches deeper into the soft compound than anybody else. By the +marks on the snow we perceived, also, that he had trailed his axe along by +his side, a sure sign of weariness. By sunset we had gained the Pas de +Chvres, and ran gaily down the gentle slope towards the hotel. A little +distance from the building we came so suddenly upon a manly form, +outstretched, like a stranded star-fish, on a mossy bank, that we almost +leaped upon his stomach. Yet he moved not, and was apparently wrapped in +slumber. We stopped and crept cautiously up to survey him more closely. It +was the agile person. + + + + + 2. _A Little Maiden._ + + +(M119) + +In the old days of mountaineering, Saas was a place more often talked +about than visited. The beauty of the scenery around was indeed +unquestionable, the number of expeditions of every degree of difficulty +seemed almost without limit, first-rate guides could be obtained with +ease, and yet there was never any difficulty in finding quarters in the +hotels. In ascending the main valley from Visp the great stream of +travellers divided at Stalden into a large stream that made its way to +Zermatt and a little rivulet that meandered along the much finer valley +towards Saas and the Mattmark. It thus fell out that, notwithstanding a +small body of indefatigable mountaineers had explored the higher peaks and +passes on both sides of the valley with tolerable completeness, there was +left a considerable number of smaller expeditions capable of providing +good amusement for the climber desirous of acquiring fame or of exploring +the less known districts. In these days, when the soaring ambition of +mountaineers has led them to climb heights far greater than any found in +the Alps, an account of an expedition of an unimportant peak may seem out +of place. Indeed, its details were so devoid of sensational incident that +the recital may be dull; but, as will appear directly, that is not the +writer's fault; at any rate, he ventures to give it, for the same reason +that invariably prompts youthful authors to write unnecessary books; that +is, as they say in their preface, to supply a want long felt--a want, it +may be stated, usually felt in their own pockets and nowhere else. + +With every respect to the older generation of mountaineers, they are much +to blame in one matter. The stock of Alpine jokes is scanty; indeed, a +well-read author can get them all, with a little arrangement, into the +compass of one short description of a day in the mountains. Again, the +number of Alpine subjects lending themselves to facetiousness is but +small. The supply has been proved beyond question entirely inadequate to +meet the demand, but former writers have recklessly drawn on this limited +stock and entirely exhausted the topics, if not the readers. Some +allowance may therefore be made when the position is considered, and it is +realised that the writer is endeavouring to patch together a fabric with +materials almost too threadbare for use, and that he is compelled wholly +to pass by such attractive topics as the early start and consequent +ill-temper, the dirty porter, the bergschrund, the use of tobacco, or the +flea. The last-mentioned beast is in fact now universally prohibited from +intrusion into polite Alpine literature; he has had his day. But why? he +has surely some right to the place. An eminent French composer(6) has +written a ballad in his honour; but though, as old Hans Andersen wrote, he +was much thought of at one time, and occupied a high position, seeing that +he was in the habit of mixing with the human race, and might even have +royal blood in his veins, yet he is now deposed. I cannot forbear from +paying a last tribute to the memory of a departing, though formerly +constant, companion. To find oneself obliged to cut the acquaintance of a +friend whom I have fed with my own hand must give rise to some qualms. + +Unfortunately, too, the older writings are too well known of many to be +dished up again in altered form, like a Sunday dinner in the suburbs; so +that even the most common form of originality, videlicet, forgetfulness of +the source from which you are borrowing, is forbidden. Plagiarism is a +crime that seldom is allowed to pass undetected. There are many people in +this world possessed of such a small amount of originality themselves, +that they spend their whole time in searching for the want of that quality +in others. The human inhabitants of the ark, unless they made the most of +their unexampled opportunities for the study of natural history, must have +become desperately bored with each other, and no doubt, when set free, +said all the good things, each in their own independent nucleus of +commencing society, which they had heard while immured. On the whole, it +is fortunate for writers that the period known as the dark ages came to +pass; it allowed those who commenced their career on this side of the +hiatus to make, on the old lines, a perfectly fresh start. + +(M120) + +Perhaps no country in the world has had the minute topography of its +uninhabited districts so thoroughly worked out as Switzerland. Beyond +question the orography is more accurately given than anywhere else; in +this respect, indeed, no other country can compare with it. It might seem, +even to those who have studied the matter, almost impossible to find any +corner of the Alps that has not been described; and the discovery that a +few superficial square yards of Swiss territory, arranged on an incline, +had not been discussed in detail came upon the writer with somewhat of a +shock. It was clearly somebody's duty to rectify the omission and fill the +gap; whether the expedition was of importance from any point of view, or +whether any one in the wide world had the smallest desire to read a +description of it, was a matter of no moment whatever. There was a vacuum, +and it was a thing abhorrent. The mountain, to which reference is made +above, lies east of Saas, and is known to such of the inhabitants as have +any knowledge of geography as the Portienhorn. Substantially this peak is +the highest point of a long rocky ridge running north and south, and +called the Portien Grat. + +(M121) + +One fine evening we sat outside the inn at Saas just before dinner, +seriously discussing the prospect of climbing this mountain. The guides +were of opinion that we ought to sleep out, and surmised that the rocks +might be found much more difficult than they looked. With some reluctance +on our part their views were allowed to prevail on the point, and they +started off in triumph, promising to return and report when all the +necessary preparations for starting should be completed, while we went in +to prepare ourselves for the next day by an early dinner. The inn in those +days was somewhat rude, and the cuisine was not remarkable save for the +extraordinary faculty possessed by the chef for cooking anything that +happened to come in his way, and reducing it all to the same level of +tastelessness. On the present occasion, however, stimulated, no doubt, by +certain critical rebukes, he had determined to surpass himself. Towards +the end of the repast, as we sat chewing some little wooden toothpicks, +which were found to have more flavour than anything else placed on the +table, we heard the chef cross the yard and go into a certain little +outhouse. A few minutes later a subtle and delicate aroma made its way +into the apartment, leading us, after a few interrogative sniffs, to get +up and close the window. Gradually the savour became more pronounced, and +one of the party gave expression to his opinion that there was now +satisfactory proof of the accuracy of his constant statement that the +drains were out of order. Gradually intensifying, the savour assumed the +decided character of a smell, and we looked out of window to see in which +direction the cemetery lay. Stronger and stronger grew the perception as +steps came mounting up the stairs; the door opened, and all doubt was set +at rest as the chef entered, bearing proudly a large cheese. In a moment, +to his dismay, he was left undisputed master of the apartment. + +(M122) + +We left Saas equipped as for a serious expedition. A stout rustic, who was +the most preternaturally ugly man I ever saw, led the way; he had a very +large mouth and an odd-shaped face, so that he resembled a frog with a +skewer wedged across inside his cheeks. On his back he bore a bag full of +very spiky straw, which the guides said was a mattress. In about an hour's +time we arrived at a carelessly built chalet on the Almagel Alp, of which +the outside was repulsive and the inside revolting. But the experienced +mountaineer, on such occasions, is not easily put out, and exhibits very +little astonishment at anything he may see, and none at anything that he +may smell. The hut consisted of a single apartment, furnished with a +fireplace and a bed. The fireplace was situated in the centre of the room; +the couch was separated by a dilapidated hoarding from a shed tenanted by +a cow of insatiable appetite--indeed, it may have been originally designed +as a manger. The bed, which accommodated apparently the family of the +tenant, was found on actual measurement to be forty-eight inches in length +and twenty in width; nevertheless the two guides packed themselves into +it, adopting in their recumbent position the theory that if you keep your +head and your feet warm you are all right. By the flickering gleams of +firelight it could be perceived through the smoke that these were the only +portions of their frames actually in the bed owing to its excessive +shortness; but guides share, with babies in perambulators, a happy faculty +of being able to sleep peacefully whatever be the position of their heads. +The dispossessed family of the tenant would not submit, notwithstanding +strong remarks, to summary eviction, and watched our proceedings with much +interest. It was pointed out to them that curiosity was a vicious quality, +that it had been defined as looking over other people's affairs and +overlooking one's own, and that, on the whole, they had better retire, +which they did reluctantly, to a little shed in which was a large copper +pot with other cheese-making accessories. Apparently they spent the night +in scouring the copper pot. + +The mattress proved to be so tightly packed that it was easier, on the +whole, to lie awake under it than to sleep on the top of it, and less +painful. About 4 A.M. one of the guides incautiously moved his head, and +having thus disturbed his equilibrium fell heavily on to the floor. +Thereupon he woke up and said it was time to start. We bade a cheerful +adieu to our host, who was obtaining such repose as could be got by the +process of leaning against the doorpost, and made our way upwards. + +On the south side of the Portienhorn a long and rough rocky ridge, +preserving a tolerably uniform height, extends as far as the Sonnighorn. +Ultimately the ridge, still running in a southerly direction, curves +slightly round to the west up to the Monte Moro, and thus forms the head +of the Saas valley. There are several unimportant peaks in this ridge +perhaps equally worthy, with the Portienhorn, of a place in literature; +but of all the points south of the Weissmies this Portienhorn is perhaps +the most considerable, and certainly the most difficult of access. At any +rate, we climbed the peak, and this is how we did it. + +(M123) + +It was clear that the southern ridge was more feasible than the northern +one, which drops to a col known as the Zwischbergen Pass, and then rises +again to merge into the mass of the Weissmies. The whole of the western +slope of the Portienhorn is covered by the Rothblatt Glacier, the ice of +which is plastered up against its sides. We kept to the left of the +termination of this glacier, and after a brief look round turned our steps +away from the rock buttress forming the northern boundary of the glacier, +though we were of opinion that we might by this line ascend the mountain; +but we nevertheless selected the southern ridge, on the same principle +that the sportsman, perfectly capable of flying across any obstacle, +however high, sometimes, out of consideration no doubt for his horse, +elects to follow somebody else through a gap. In good time we reached a +point about halfway up the side of the mountain, and halted at the upper +edge of a sloping patch of snow. It was fortunate that we had ample time +to spare, for considerable delay was experienced here. Burgener had become +newly possessed of a remarkable knife, which he was perpetually taking out +of his pocket and admiring fondly; in fact, it provided material for +conversation to the guides for the whole day. The knife was an intricate +article, and strikingly useless, being weak in the joints; but +nevertheless Burgener was vastly proud of the weapon, and valued it as +much as an ugly man does a compliment. In the middle of breakfast the +treasure suddenly slipped out of his hand, and started off down the slope. +With a yell of anguish he bounded off after it, and went down the rocks in +a manner and at a pace that only a guide in a state of excitement can +exhibit. The incident was trivial, but it impressed on me the +extraordinary powers of sure-footedness and quickness on rocks that a good +guide possesses. An amateur might have climbed after these men the whole +day, and have thought that he was nearly as good as they, but he could no +more have gone down a couple of hundred feet as this guide did without +committing suicide, than he could have performed a double-three backwards +the first time he put on skates. He might, indeed, have gone backwards, +but he would not have achieved his double-three. Turning northwards the +moment we were on the arte, we made our way, with a good deal of +scrambling, upwards. The rocks were firm and good, and, being dry, gave no +great difficulty. Still they were far from easy, and now and again there +were short passages sufficiently troublesome to yield the needed charm to +a mountain climb, difficult enough at any rate to make us leave our axes +behind and move one at a time. But how have the times altered since our +expedition was made! Nowadays such a climb would be more fitly mentioned +casually after dinner as "a nice little walk before church," "a capital +after-breakfast scramble," "a stroll strongly recommended to persons of an +obese habit," and so forth. Nevertheless, there is a very distinct +pleasure in climbing up a peak of this sort--greater, perhaps, than may be +found on many of the more highly rated, formidable, and, if the truth be +told, fashionable mountains; for the expedition was throughout +interesting, and the contrast between the view to the west where the +Mischabelhrner reared up their massive forms, and to the east looking +towards Domo d'Ossola and the Italian lake district, was one to repay a +climber who has eyes as well as limbs. The crest was in places tolerably +sharp, and we were forced at times to adopt the expedient, conventionally +supposed to be the only safe one in such cases, of bestriding the rock +edge. It should be stated, however, that, as usual on such occasions, when +we desired to progress we discarded this position, and made our way +onwards in the graceful attitude observed at the seaside in those who are +hunting on the sand for marine specimens. And thus we arrived ultimately +at the top, where we gave way to a properly regulated amount of subdued +enthusiasm, proportionate to the difficulty and height of the vanquished +mountain. No trace of previous travellers could be found on the summit. It +was a maiden ascent. Doubtless the mythical and ubiquitous chamois-hunter +had been up before us, for at the time I write of the district was noted +for chamois; but even if he had, it makes no difference. We have found it +long since necessary to look upon ascents stated to have been made by +chamois-hunters as counting for nothing, and in the dearth of new peaks in +the Alps, have to resort to strange devices and strained ideas for +novelty. Thus, a mountain in the present day can be the means of bringing +glory and honour to many climbers. For instance:-- + +A climbs it First ascent. +B ascends it First recorded ascent. +C goes up it First ascent from the other side. +D combines A and C's First time that the peak has been "colled." + expedition +E scrambles up the First ascent by the E.N.E. arte. + wrong way +F climbs it in the First ascent by an Englishman, or first + ordinary way ascent without guides. +G is dragged up by his First real ascent; because all the others + guides were ignorant of the topographical details, + and G's peak is nearly three feet higher than + any other point. + +Many more might be added; probably in the future many more will, for, in +modern mountaineering phrase, the Portienhorn "goes all over." By 4 P.M. +we were back again in the Saas valley. + +It seems, as I write, only yesterday that all this happened. But a regular +revolution has really taken place. There can be no question, I think, that +fewer real mountaineers are to be found in the old "playground" than +formerly. Still, there are not wanting climbers, all of them apparently of +the first rank. For among the high Alps now, even as on the dramatic stage +of to-day, there are no amateurs. + +(M124) + +A curious human fungus that has grown up suddenly of late is the +emancipated schoolboy spoken of by a certain, principally feminine, clique +of admirers as "such a wonderful actor, you know." Very learned is he in +the technicalities of the stage. The perspiring audience in the main +drawing-room he alludes to as "those in front." He knows what "battens" +are, and "flies," and "tormentors," and "spider-traps." He endeavours to +imitate well-known actors, but does not imitate the laborious process by +which these same artists arrive at successful results. But we all know +him, and are aware also, at any rate by report, of his overweening vanity, +and the manner in which he intrudes his conception of "Hamlet" or +"Richelieu" on a longsuffering public. Without the slightest knowledge +technically of how to walk, talk, sit down, go off, or come on, he rushes +on the boards possessed solely of such qualifications for his task as may +arise in a brain fermenting with conceit. Critics he regards as persons +existing solely for the purpose of crushing him, and showing ill-tempered +hostility born of envy. The judicious, if they accept and weakly avail +themselves of orders, can but grieve and marvel that there should exist +that curious state of folly which prompts a man to exhibit it before the +world, or even to thrust it upon his fellow-creatures. Some men are born +foolish--a pity, no doubt, but the circumstances are beyond their own +control; some achieve a reputation for lack of wisdom, and even make it +pay; but some thrust their folly on others, and to such no quarter need be +given. The self-constituted exponent of a most difficult art is not a whit +more ridiculous than the boy or man who rushes at a difficult peak before +he has learnt the elements of mountaineering science. A man may become a +good amateur actor if he will consent to devote his leisure to +ascertaining what there is to learn, and trying to learn it; and a man may +become a good mountaineer by adopting the same line of action. But this is +rarely the case. Too often they forget that, as a late president of the +Alpine Club remarked, "life is a great opportunity, not to be thrown away +lightly." It is said sometimes by unreflecting persons that such +institutions as the Alpine Club are responsible for the misfortunes and +calamities that have arisen from time to time, and may still arise. But +there has been a good example set if recruits would only turn to it; for +the mountaineers in the old style, speaking of a generation that climbs +but little in these days, did what it is the fashion now to call their +"work" thoroughly--too thoroughly and completely, perhaps, to please +altogether their successors. Novelty in the mountains of Switzerland may +be exhausted, but there are still too many expeditions of which, because +they have been done once or twice, the danger is not adequately +recognised. If these remarks, written in no captious spirit, but rather +with the strongest desire to lay stress on truths that are too often +ignored, should lead any aspiring but unpractised mountaineer to pause and +reflect before he tries something beyond his strength and capabilities, +some little good will at least have been done. It is not that the rules +are unknown; they are simple, short, ready to hand, and intelligible; but +the penalty that may be exacted for breaking any of them is a terribly +heavy one--_absit omen._ + + + + + + CHAPTER VIII. + + + A SENTIMENTAL ALPINE JOURNEY + + + Long "waits" and entr'actes--The Mont Buet as an unknown + mountain--We hire carriages--A digression on a stationary vehicle--A + straggling start--The incomplete moralist--The niece to the + moralist--A discourse on gourmets--An artistic interlude--We become + thoughtful, and reach the height of sentiment and the top of the + Mont Buet--Some other members of the party--The mountaineers + perform--How glissading ambition did o'erleap itself--A vision on + the summit--The moralist leaves us for a while--Entertainment at the + Brard Chalet--View of the Aiguille Verte--The end of the journey. + + +A fair critic--in the matter of sex--discussing a recently published work +with the author, remarked that it was the most charming book she had ever +read. "I was told it would not interest me," she remarked most seriously +to him, "but really I found it delightful: there are such lovely wide +margins to the pages, you know." On much the same principle a highly +intelligent lady, noted for her theatrical discrimination, once remarked +that she liked those theatres best which afforded the longest entr'actes. +So in the Alps we felt from time to time the necessity, between the more +stirring episodes resulting from higher mountaineering, to interpose minor +expeditions, on which no less care and thought was often lavished to make +them worthy of pursuit. These were our entr'actes. Of such expeditions it +is customary to say that they are the most enjoyable of any undertaken. +Without going so far as this, it may be conceded that they have a pleasure +of their own, and it is at least no more difficult to discover a novel +form of sub-Alpine expedition than to vary the details of a big climb. One +of these episodes, undertaken while we were barred from the higher +mountains by a fall of snow, consisted in a night attack on the Mont Buet. + +(M125) + +Now the Mont Buet, although it lies close to the regular highway to +Chamouni from the Rhone valley, is a peak but rarely even seen of the +ordinary tourist; and, considering the numbers of our countrymen that +flock to the village whence they imagine that they see the summit of Mont +Blanc, the English folk who make the ascent are strangely few. Yet the +walk is not a laborious one; not more fatiguing, for example, than the +tramp from Martigny to Chamouni over the Col de Balme on a hot day. +Fashion in the mountains is very conservative, and probably it is too late +in the day now to hope that this mountain will ever gain all the +reputation it deserves, for, though comparatively unknown, its praises +have been by no means left unsung. Possibly the lowness of the guides' +tariff for the peak may have something to do with the matter, and may +serve to explain why it is so much left out in the cold; for this is a +very potent agent in determining the attractiveness of special localities. +How many go to Chamouni, and never wander along one of the most beautiful +sylvan paths in the Alps, that leads to the Glacier des Bossons through +the woods, where the view, as the spectator suddenly finds himself +confronted with the huge stream of pure glacier, topped by a most +magnificent ice-fall, and backed by the crags of the Aiguille du Midi, +compares by no means unfavourably with the more frequently photographed +panorama from the Montanvert. Ask a dozen persons at haphazard who are +staying at Chamouni where the Mont Buet is, and ten out of the number will +be unable to answer you. But the pictures hung on the line are not +invariably the best in an exhibition; and the Mont Buet is a masterpiece, +so to speak, "skied." + +(M126) + +Our party that summer at Chamouni was a large one, for we had stayed a +long time in the hotel, and knew, as the phrase goes, a great many to +speak to--quite a different thing to answering for them. We conceived the +plan of so timing our modest expedition as to arrive on the summit of the +Mont Buet about sunset. It was agreed by some members of the party that it +would be "such fun, you know," to come down in the dark. The inference to +be gathered from this is that the party was not exclusively composed of +the male sex. Two of us, reputed to be good at a bargain, were deputed to +charter carriages to convey the members of the expedition up to +Argentire, where the ascent commenced. The carriages of Chamouni, though +no doubt practical and well suited to the mountain roads, were not found +to be of uniform excellence. Availing ourselves of a proper introduction, +we made the temporary acquaintance of an individual interested officially +in vehicular traffic, who possessed that remarkable insight into character +noticeable in all who are concerned with horses, and knew exactly what we +wanted without any preliminary explanation on our part. "Voil votre +affaire," he said, and indicated a machine that would have been out of +date when the first _char--banc_ was constructed. We inquired if the +somewhat unsavoury load (it had, apparently, been in recent requisition +for farming purposes) which the cart contained might be removed, and he +said there was no objection to this. "See," said the proprietor, "the +seats have backs." "But they tip up," we remonstrated. "That is nothing," +rejoined the proprietor; "they can be tied down: the carriage is good, and +has gone many miles. However, Monsieur is evidently particular; he shall +be satisfied. Behold!" and the proprietor threw open the creaking door of +a shed, and revealed to our gaze a pretentious landau with faded linings +and wheels which did not seem to be circular. This "machine," he assured +us, it would be hard to equal for locomotive purposes. Two strange beasts +were connected to it, chiefly, as it seemed, by bits of string. One of the +animals was supported on two very puffy hind legs and two very tremulous +fore-legs, and seemed perpetually on the point of going down on its knees +to supplicate that it might be allowed to go no further. Its companion was +a horse of the most gloomy nature, that no amount of chastisement could +stir from a despondent and pensive frame of mind. Both these treasures had +a capacity for detecting an upward incline that was marvellously acute. +Then there was a structure like a magnified perambulator, of which one +wheel was afflicted with a chronic propensity for squeaking, while the +other described a curious serpentine track as it rolled along. Not being, +however, in any particular hurry, we decided to avail ourselves of such +assistance as these vehicles might afford, and did, as a matter of fact, +ultimately reach our destination, if not in, at least with them. + +(M127) + +From Argentire we followed the familiar track of the Tte Noire for some +little distance, and then bore away to the left up the valley leading +towards the Brard Chalet. The party, which had kept well together for the +first few minutes after parting with the carriages, were soon straggling +off in every direction, and the chief organiser of the expedition, +desperately anxious lest some should go astray and be no more found, ran +to and fro from one little group to another, and got into a highly +excitable frame of mind, like a busily minded little dog when first taken +out for a walk. Chief among the more erratic members was an elderly person +who had, unwisely, been asked to join the party for no very definite +reason, but because some one had said that it would be obviously +incomplete without him. The old gentleman had no previous experience of +mountain walks, but had very complete theories on the subject. He had made +great preparations for his day's climb, had carefully dieted himself the +day previously, and was not a little proud of his equipment and attire. He +was furnished with a spiked umbrella, a green tin box, and a particularly +thin pair of boots; for he wished to prove the accuracy of a theory that +man, being descended from the apes, might properly use his feet as +prehensile members, and he held that this additional aid would prove +valuable on rocks. It was currently reported, notwithstanding his +loquacity, that he was a very wise person, and indeed he dropped hints +himself, which he was much annoyed if we did not take, on the subject of a +projected literary work. We were given to understand that the publishers +were all hankering after the same, and he had a manner in conversation of +tentatively quoting passages and watching eagerly for the effects. He was +known to us as the incomplete moralist, and proved to be a very didactic +person. + +(M128) + +But this was not all; there was one other member of the party, who may be +described, as in the old-fashioned list of the "Dramatis Person," as +"niece to the moralist." Somehow or another, she seemed to lead +everything; instinctively all gave way to her wishes, and even the chief +organiser looked to her for confirmation of his opinions before +enunciating them with decision. Bright, impulsive, wilful, she led the +moralist, subjectively speaking, whither she would, and he had no chance +at all. "She ought not to have come at all on such an expedition," he +said, looking at the light, fragile form ahead; "but you know you can't +persuade a butterfly to take systematic exercise, and everything seems to +give her so much pleasure;" and here the moralist looked rather wistful, +and somehow the artificiality seemed to fade away from him for the moment. +"Such of us," he resumed, "as stay long enough in this world cease to have +much hopefulness; and when that quality shows up too strong in the young, +such as that child yonder, somehow I don't think they often----" Here he +paused abruptly, and, selecting a meat lozenge from a store in his tin +box, put it into his mouth and apparently swallowed it at once; at any +rate, he gulped down something. It must be allowed that the moralist had +done his best to prevent his charge from accompanying the party. She had +been reminded of what learned doctors had said, that she was not to exert +herself; that certain persons, vaguely alluded to, would be very angry, +and so forth. The moralist had been talked down in two minutes. He might +as well have pointed out to the little budding leaflets the unwisdom of +mistaking warm days in March for commencing summer; and, finally, he had +surrendered at discretion, fencing himself in with some stipulations as to +warm cloaks, "this once only," and the like, which he knew would not be +attended to. So she came, and her eager brightness shed a radiance over +the most commonplace objects, and infected the most prosaic of the party, +even a young lady of varied accomplishments, who distinguished herself +later on. After all, if the flame burned a little more brightly at the +expense of a limited stock of fuel, was there anything to regret? Tone +down such brightness as hers was, and you have but an uncut diamond, or a +plant that may possibly last a little longer because its blossom, its +fruit, and with them its beauties, have been cut off to preserve the dull +stem to the utmost. Check the natural characteristics and outflow of such +natures, and you force them to the contemplation of what is painful and +gloomy. You bring them back fully to this world, and it is their greatest +privilege to be but half in it, and to have eyes blind to the seamy side. +The Alpine rose-glow owes its fascination to the fact that we know it will +soon fade. So is it with these natures. They are to be envied. We may hold +it truth with him who sings, "Better fifty years of Europe than a cycle of +Cathay." But the parallel is not strictly true: the brightness will not +fade, but will be there to the end, and the streak of sadness running +through it all gives the fascination. So the wit that approaches nearest +to pathos touches us most deeply, and is one of the rarest of intellectual +talents. With what a thrill of mixed, but yet pleasurable, sensation do we +recall the timely jest of a lost friend. But all this has nothing to do +with a holiday expedition in the Alps. Still, it must be remembered, we +were on a sentimental journey in the mountains. + +Before long the chief organiser, seizing an opportunity when most of the +stragglers were within earshot, announced at the top of his voice that +luncheon would be served on certain flat rocks. This had the immediate +effect of uniting our scattered forces. The first to arrive (the moralist +was slow of foot) were some gallant members of the high mountaineering +fraternity, who throughout the day evinced astounding activity, and an +unwonted desire to carry burdens on their backs. Secretly they were +burning with an ambition to display their prowess on some "mauvais pas," +or glissade, an ambition rewarded later on in a somewhat remarkable +manner. The rock was spread, the moralist selected a comfortable place, +and, stimulated by the appearance of the viands, favoured us with certain +extracts. + +(M129) + +"There are many," he observed, holding a large piece of pie to his mouth +and eyeing it to select an appropriate place for the next bite, "who hold +that the sense of taste is not one to which we should much minister. I do +not hold with such;" and here he found the right spot, and for a minute or +two the thread of his discourse was broken off. "The painter blends +colours to please the sense of sight; the musician studies harmonies of +sound to please the ear; each appeals to but one of our imperfect senses, +and yet we think much of them for so doing; we compliment them, and give +them the appellation of artists. Now the worthy person who dexterously +compounded this article, of which, alas! I hold now but little in my hand, +appeals not to a single but to a twofold sense; he ministers alike to +taste and to smell, and I must own, after a toilsome walk, with +commendable results. He is an artist in the highest sense of the word; his +merits, to my thinking, are but inadequately recognised in this world. I +am convinced that they will be more so in another. The gourmet's paradise +shall provide for him a cherubic state of existence; then shall he have +all the pleasure that the palate can afford without any ill-omened presage +of subsequent discomfort; for, thrice happy that he will be, digestion +will be an anatomical impossibility." It may be remarked parenthetically +that the possession of a gigantic brain had not obviated, in the case of +the moralist, the deleterious effects of sour wine. But the moralist was +not, as yet, much of a cherub. + +As the speaker showed unmistakable signs of continuing his discourse, +which had been chiefly directed at a youth of whom we only knew that he +was some one's brother, if the opportunity were afforded, a sudden and +general move was made, and the proposal that a short adjournment should +take place previous to resuming our upward journey found instant favour. +The chief organiser was by common consent left to pack up. Straightway the +ladies all produced little sketch-books, and fell very vigorously to +recording their impressions of the scenery around; whilst the moralist, +already somewhat stiff, wandered from one group to the other and favoured +them with his suggestions. The result of half an hour's work with pencil +and brush was to produce diagrams of certain objects which looked +uncommonly like telegraph poles with cross bars attached, but which were +coloured of a vivid green, and were thus obviously intended for fir trees. +The moralist, not finding that his remarks were met with much favour by +the artists, selected an ascetic who sat apart from the others, and +delivered his next discourse into his inattentive but uncomplaining ear. + +(M130) + +"It seems strange to me," he remarked, "that those who are wholly unable +to depict, even in the most elementary manner, the commonplace objects +around them, are for ever seen in the Alps striving after the most +impossible art problems. If so great a stimulus is needed, a poor result +may be confidently anticipated." (Here the moralist made a fourth attempt +to light a very curious native cigar.) "If it takes the sight of Nature in +her sublimest phase, as seen in the Alps, to stimulate our friends here to +show their art, why, then they haven't much of it. A milestone should be +sufficient for the purpose, but it seems that they require a Matterhorn; +and it may be gathered, from what I have heard you and your companions +say, that what is true of Alpine art is true also of Alpine climbing, and +that the _dilettanti_ will never take the trouble to learn how much there +is to learn. Our friends here try to paint a glacier, and have not the +most elementary idea of its anatomy. They represent vast panoramas, and +know nothing of distance; they----" But here the moralist, in the excitement +of his discourse, turned a little white, probably from the depth of his +feelings; and, throwing away his cigar, walked off alone, and was +discovered shortly after perspiring a good deal, and crumpled up in a +somewhat limp and helpless state. + +The books were packed up, for the sun was setting low, and the party +wended their way up the steep grass slope till the first great dome of the +Mont Buet came well into sight. Far ahead was the niece, seemingly +unconscious of the effects that the exertion of climbing told on her +slight frame. She was apparently unaware of any companions around, though +watchful eyes and strong hands were always near lest any mischance should +befall. She spoke to no one. Nature absorbed all her faculties as she went +on with cheeks rather flushed, and bright, dilated eyes drinking in every +object and every point of beauty. As an artist in the exercise of his +craft makes the outside world acquainted with beauties ever present to his +eyes, so did the effect on her of the wondrous lights and shades and +colours around call up new thoughts and reveal fresh marvels in the +panorama to others, though well acquainted with such Alpine scenes. The +spell caught one after another, till the whole party, all held by the same +unsuspected fascination, walked silently on, while the majestic splendour +around inspired an awe in the mind that even those most familiar with the +marvels of nature in the mountains had never felt before. The mere +recognition of the fact that the same thought or emotion is passing +simultaneously through the minds of many is in itself so striking, that +the impression so caused will not ever be effaced from the mind. A crowded +hall is waiting for the advent of the orator of the occasion, and there +enters an old man whose name and work were familiar to all. Instantly, and +as if by magic, all present rose to their feet in token of respect. No +word was spoken, no signal given. The matter may seem slight, but the +scene was one that those present will never forget. The most hideous part +of the punishment in the old days to the criminal must have been the +moment when, as he stepped through the last door, the sea of faces below +him upturned simultaneously with a howl of execration. And all these +thoughts were called up by the fact that one consumptive girl was a member +of our mountain party. Well, such was the case, and it made the expedition +different in many ways from any that we had ever undertaken, but not +perhaps the less worthy of remembrance. + +(M131) + +"It looks a long way off," observed the moralist, gazing despondently +upwards. "Do you say that the object of our expedition is to climb up to +that eminence yonder? I fear lest some of the weaker members of the party +should fail." (The moralist was now the penultimate member of the party, +the absolute rear being brought up by one of the guides, who was pushing +him up with the head of his axe. The youth to whom he was in the habit of +addressing his discourses had in a revengeful mood offered similar +assistance; but the youth wore such a saturnine look when he made the +suggestion, that it was declined hastily with thanks.) "I think that if I +took a little wine"--here he took all that was left--"this feeling of +disinclination to move might conceivably pass off, and I could then +encourage some of the others on what is clearly to them an arduous +expedition. Ah me! but these little stones are excessively sharp to the +feet; let us turn off on to the snow. I have heard that it is possible to +walk uphill on such a medium, and yet scarce recognise the fact." By this +time most of the party were well on to the first summit, and the glories +of the sunset, from a point of view which it would be hard to match in all +the mountains, were beginning to display themselves to the full. The +higher we ascended the more did the eternal mass of white snow on the +other side of the valley develop and tower above us. Two or three of the +more active members were floundering in the deep snow along the ridge +uniting the two summits, and finding it, if the truth be told, no small +matter to keep pace with the niece, who skimmed lightly over the surface. +Gallantry and the desire to keep up their reputation forbade that they +should fall to the rear, or allow the rope to tighten unduly; but their +superior mountaineering experience seemed not a little in danger of being +counterbalanced by their superior weight. All over the rocks on the Sixt +side a thin grey veil of mist seemed to hang, making the cliffs appear +still more vertical than nature had moulded them, and tinting the crags at +the same time with a deep purple colour. + + [Illustration: A VISION ON A SUMMIT] + +(M132) + +In the foreground, looking south, the long jagged line of the Aiguilles +Rouges cut off the view into the Chamouni valley, and threw up still +higher and more into relief the minor peaks of the Mont Blanc chain. We +huddled together on the summit, while there seemed hardly time to turn to +all points of the compass to survey the effects. The emotional members of +the party came out strong, and the young lady of varied accomplishments, +who was adjudged by the others to be of poetic temperament, as she was +fond of alluding rather vaguely to unknown Italian geniuses, burst forth +into ecstasies. However, one or two of us had rather lost faith in her +historical knowledge and her profound acquaintance with medival art on +hearing her discourse learnedly to the vacuous youth on Savonarola as an +artist of great repute, and on discovering that in the family circle she +was held in submission by an Italianised English governess--discreetly left +at the hotel. A formidable person, this preceptress, of austere demeanour, +with a dyspeptic habit, highly pomatumed ringlets, and evangelistic +tendencies--a triple combination not infrequently met with. Still, no one +paid any attention to the accomplished young lady, for an object in the +foreground of the great picture riveted the gaze of most of us. The niece +had advanced a few steps from the rest of the party, and stood a little +apart on the summit ridge of the mountain, her slight form brought out in +strong relief against the many-tinted sky. The folds of her dress +fluttered back in the light breeze, and the night wind as it came sighing +over the crest had loosened her veil and tossed it upwards. Mechanically +as she raised her hand to draw it back, the thin arm and hand seemed to +point upwards to something beyond what we could see. Instinctively the +others all drew back a few paces, and closed in together as they watched +the motionless form. The sunset glories were more than we could realise, +but somehow we felt that she was gazing with fixed eyes far, far beyond +these--into a pure and passionless region, beyond the mental grasp of the +profoundest theologian depending on his own acquired knowledge. As we +looked, though she moved no limb, her breath came faster and faster. One +or two of us made a start forwards, but at that moment the last red glow +vanished from the belt of fleecy cloud hanging in mid-sky. Lower down, the +limestone cliffs seemed strangely desolate as the icy hand of night spread +over them. The breeze suddenly dropped and died away. She stamped her foot +on the snow, and with a quick movement of the head seemed to come back +again to the scene around. "Let us go," she said, half petulantly. +Silently the party arranged themselves in order as we wended our way back +along the ridge. We had seen a sight that lingered in the mind, and that +was not easily to be erased from the memory. As we walked along we +gradually drew closer and closer together, prompted by some feeling that +all seemed to share alike--as if the recollection of what we had just seen +had dazed the mind, and brought us face to face with some influence beyond +our ordinary thoughts, and as if with nearer union we should not feel so +powerless and insignificant. But the glories of that sunset from the Mont +Buet, a scene within the reach of all of very moderate walking ability, +were far beyond the power of any language to describe, and beyond the +province of any discreet writer to attempt. The twilight gathered in fast, +and the snow already felt more crisp under foot. The roll-call was held, +and it was discovered that the only absentees were the moralist and his +propelling companion. At this point two of the skilled mountaineers of the +party recognised their opportunity, and were not slow to seize it. +Secretly they had felt that no suitable occasion had hitherto offered of +displaying their prowess, so they volunteered to perform a glissade for +the amusement and instruction of the others. The ladies clapped their +hands gleefully, and the youth, who did not know how to glissade, looked +sinister. Accordingly the skilful ones made their way to a steep snow +slope, and started off with great speed and dexterity, amidst the admiring +plaudits of the less acrobatically minded members. But the course of their +true descent did not run entirely smooth, for before half the downward +journey was accomplished the foremost member was observed suddenly to +propel himself wildly into the air, performing a remarkable antic--similar +to those known of street Arabs as cart-wheels--and the remainder of the +journey to the foot of the slope was performed with about the grace of a +floating log descending a mountain torrent. Nor was this all; the rearmost +man, apparently also possessed by an identical frenzy, leaped forth into +the air at precisely the same spot and in precisely the same manner. Had +it not been that they were known to be highly skilful and adroit +mountaineers the impression might have gained ground that the +circumstances of this part of the descent were not wholly under their own +control. Ever anxious to investigate the true cause of strange +occurrences, to their credit be it said that when they had collected their +wits and emptied their pockets of snow, they mounted up again to the scene +of the disaster, and discovered the explanation in an entirely imaginary +stone, which had, beyond doubt, tripped them up. + +(M133) + +Somewhat crestfallen, the energetic pair rejoined the rest of the troupe +and a search was instituted for the moralist. This worthy was discovered, +astonishingly weary of body but surprisingly active of mind, wedged in a +narrow rocky niche, so that he looked like the figure of a little "Joss" +in the carved model of a Japanese temple. It was found necessary to pull +him vigorously by the legs, in order to straighten out those members +sufficiently for him to progress upon them. However, he seemed to have +more to say about the sunset than anybody else, and his description of the +beauties thereof was so glowing and eloquent, that the idea crossed our +minds that possibly some of the descriptions we had read in Alpine +writings of similar scenes might be as authentic as that with which he +favoured us. "A great point in the Alps," remarked the moralist, after he +had been securely fastened by a rope to a guide for fear we should lose +him again, so that he looked like a dancing bear--"a great point in walking +amongst the Alps is that we learn to use our eyes and look around us. I +have observed that those who perambulate our native flagstones appear +perpetually to be absorbed in the contemplation of what lies at their +feet. Now here, stimulated by the beauties around, man holds, as he should +do, his head erect, and steps out boldly." At this point a little delay +was occasioned owing to the abrupt disappearance of the speaker through a +crust of snow. Some curious rumblings below our feet seemed to imply that +he had descended to a considerable depth, and was in great personal +discomfort. In the dim light we could scarcely see what had actually +happened, but concluded to pull vigorously at the rope as the best means +of getting our temporarily absent friend out of his difficulties. This we +succeeded in doing, and a strenuous haul on the cord was rewarded by the +sudden appearance of two boots through the snow-crust at our feet--a +phenomenon so unexpected that we relaxed our efforts, with the result that +the boots immediately disappeared again. A second attempt was more +successful; an arm and a leg this time came to the surface simultaneously, +and the moralist was delivered from the snowy recesses broadside on. We +rearranged his raiment, shook the snow out of the creases of his clothes, +tied a bath towel round his head, which, for some obscure reason, he had +brought with him--the towel, not his head--and harnessed him this time +securely between two members of the party. Possibly from the effects of +his misadventure, he remained silent for some time, or his flow of +conversation may have been hindered by the fact that his supporters ran +him violently down steep places whenever he showed symptoms of commencing +a fresh dissertation. It was no easy task to find the little hut in the +darkness, and it was not until after we had blundered about a good deal +that we caught sight of the beacon light, consisting of a very cheap dip +exhibited in the window, as a sign that entertainment for man and beast +might be found within. The moralist, who was always to the fore when the +subject of refreshment was mentioned, discovered a milking-stool, and +drawing it in great triumph to the best place in front of the stove, sat +down on it, with the immediate result that he was precipitated backwards +into the ash-pan. There we left him, as being a suitable place for +repentance. + +(M134) + +The rest of the party gathered for supper round the festive board, which +was rather uncertain on its legs, and inclined to tip up. Owing to some +miscarriage, the larder of the cabane was not well stocked, and all the +entertainment that could be furnished consisted of one bent-up little +sausage, exceeding black and dry, and a very large teapot. However, there +was plenty of fresh milk provided after a short interval, though the +latter article was not obtained without considerable difficulty, and +remonstrances proceeding from an adjoining shed, probably due to +somnolence on the part of the animal from which the supply was drawn. +Presently a great commotion, as of numerous bodies rolling down a steep +ladder, was heard, and there appeared at the door a large collection of +small shock-headed children, who gaped at us in silent wonder. Anxious to +ascertain the physical effects that might be induced by the consumption of +the sausage, the moralist, who amongst his many talents had apparently a +turn for experimental physiology, cut off a block and placed it in the +open mouth of the eldest of the children. This unexpected favour led to +the boy's swallowing the morsel whole, and he shortly afterwards retired +with a somewhat pained expression of countenance; the other members of the +family followed shortly after in tears, in consequence of the Italianised +young lady, who possessed a strong fund of human sympathy and a love for +the picturesque, having made an attempt to conciliate their good-will by +patting their respective heads, and asking them their names in a +conjectural _patois_. We were now ready to start again, and demanded of +our hostess what there was to pay. This request led her to go to the foot +of the ladder, which represented a staircase, and call out for the +proprietor. A little black-headed man in response instantly precipitated +himself down the steps, shot into the apartment, and, without any +preliminary calculation, named the exact price. On receiving his money he +scuttled away again like a frightened rabbit, brought the change, jerked +it down on the table, and darted off again to his slumbers. The whole +transaction occupied some five-and-twenty seconds. + +Part of the programme consisted in descending back to Argentire by +lantern-light, but the resources of the establishment could only produce +one battered machine, and it was no easy task with this illumination to +keep the members of the party from straying away from the narrow path. +Indeed, several members did part from the rest, curiously enough in pairs; +but before long we left the narrow defile, and as we passed from under the +shelter of the slope on our right, and could see across the Chamouni +valley, we came suddenly in view of the great mass of the Aiguille Verte, +so suddenly, indeed, that it made us start back for the moment; for, +illumined by a grey ghostly light, the mountain seemed at first to hang +right over us. There is, perhaps, no finer view of the Aiguille Verte to +be obtained than from this point; certainly no finer effects of light and +shade than were granted by the conditions under which we saw it, could +have been devised to show the peak off to the best advantage. So long did +we delay to dwell on the fairy-like scene, that the vacuous youth, +accompanied by the young lady of varied accomplishments, caught us up and +joined us quite suddenly, to their exceeding confusion. The youth, without +being invited to do so, explained, blushing violently the while, that they +had lost the path in the darkness, and had only been able to regain the +track by lighting a series of lucifer matches--an entire fiction on his +part, but condoned, as evincing more readiness of wit than we had +previously given him credit for. We heard also that their way had been +barred by a swamp and a mountain stream, which, like gossip, can have had +no particular origin. The young lady, mindful of the absence of her +preceptress and consequently heedless of grammar, described the situation +neatly as being "awfully bogs." + +(M135) + +If the expedition had shown us no more than this moonlight effect, the +reward would have been ample. In truth, from first to last the expedition +was one which it would be hard to match for variety of interest in all the +sub-Alpine district. At Argentire we rejoined the carriages, and found +the horses just a little more inclined for exertion than they had been in +the morning; their joy at going home seemed to be tempered by the fact +that they recognised that they would inevitably be called upon to start +from the same point at no very distant period; and that to return home was +but to go back to the starting-point for further laborious excursions. But +their equine tempers seemed thoroughly soured. The Italianised young lady +was taken in charge by her elder sister, who had completed her education, +and knew consequently the hollowness of the world and the folly of younger +sisters' flirtations, and securely lodged in the landau. The youth, after +an ineffectual attempt to find a place in the same carriage, climbed to +the box seat of the other vehicle, and relieved his feelings by cracking +the driver's whip with great dexterity; in fact, we discovered that this +was one of his principal accomplishments. Not the least satisfactory part +of the climb, in the estimation of some members of the party, was the fact +that the moralist had lost his note-book during his imprisonment in the +crevasse. + + + + + + CHAPTER IX. + + + A FRAGMENT + + + An unauthentic MS.--Solitude on the mountain: its advantages to the + historian of the Alps--A rope walk--The crossing of the Schrund--A + novel form of avalanche and an airy situation--A towering + obstacle--The issue of the expedition in the balance--A very narrow + escape--The final rush--Victory!--The perils of the descent--I plunge + _in medias res_--A flying descent. + + +The following account is somewhat of a puzzle. It appears to contain +certain facts of so startling a nature, that the ascent to which they +refer must unquestionably have been of a very exciting character. The +details are not so wholly unlike descriptions which have passed the +searching discrimination of editors, in publications relating more or less +to Alpine matters, as to warrant the assumption that they are +fabrications. They do not appear, as far as the writer can ascertain, to +have been seen in print hitherto; but as all Alpine writings relate but +rigid matters of fact and actual occurrences, there seems no objection to +publishing the manuscript, notwithstanding that its authorship is only +conjectural. It is unfortunate that its fragmentary nature leaves one +somewhat in doubt as to the actual peak to which the description refers. +It has been suggested by a plausible commentator, judging from internal +evidence and the style of writing, that the manuscript of which the +fragment consists formed part of an account originally intended for some +work not published in this country, or even, possibly, was primarily +designed to fill the columns of one of our own daily newspapers during the +silly season. + +(M136) + +"... The day was cloudless, serene, and bright. Only in the immediate +foreground did the heavy banks, betokening a _tourmente_, sweep around +with relentless fury. Far above, the towering crags of the majestic peak +pierced the sky. How to get there! And alone! The situation was sublime; +yet more, it was fascinating; once again, it was enthralling. Far below +lay the prostrate bodies of my companions, worn out, wearied, gorged with +_petit vin_ and sardines. A thought flashed across my mind. Why should I +not scale alone these heights which had hitherto defied the most +consummate _intrpides_? In a moment the resolution was taken. For me, for +me alone, should the laurel wreaths be twined. For me should the booming +cannon, charged with fifty centimes' worth of uncertain powder, betoken +victory. For me alone should the assortment of cheap flags which had done +duty on many previous occasions of rejoicing, be dragged forth. What was +the expense to a hero when the glow of so magnificent an achievement +should swell his heart and loosen his purse-strings? The account might +reach a sum of two and a half, nay, even five francs; but what of that? I +girded myself with the trusty rope, and, attaching one end lightly to a +projecting crag twenty feet above, hauled myself in a moment on to the +eminence. Involuntarily I shot a glance downwards. The scene was +fearful--one to make the most resolute quail. But there was no time for +thought, still less for accurate description. A fearfully steep couloir, +flanked by two yawning bergschrunds, stretched away horizontally right and +left. How to cross them! It was the work of a moment. Unfastening the knot +in the rope above me, I threw myself, heart and soul, into the work. Where +heart and soul are, there must, in the ante-mortem state, be the body +also. This is logic. Thus I entered the chasm. Battling desperately with +the huge icicles that threatened me at every step, I forced my way through +the snow bridge and breathed again. The first schrund was accomplished. +Next the rope was fastened to my trusty axe, and with an herculean effort +I threw it far above me; fortunately it caught in a notch, and in a few +seconds I had climbed, with the agility of a monkey, up the tightened +cord. Goodness gracious! (_sapristi!_) what do I hear? A sudden roar below +betokened an immediate danger. Horror! sweeping and roaring up the slope +from the glacier beneath, I beheld a huge avalanche. I will conceal +nothing. I own that the appalling situation and its terribly dramatic +nature forced me to ejaculate a cry. I do not claim originality for it. I +said, 'Oh! my mother!' (_Oh! ma mre!_) This relieved me. Now was the time +indeed for coolness. Fortunate, most fortunate, that I was alone. +Thrusting the spike of the axe into the solid rock face like the spear of +Ithuriel, in the twinkling of an eye I had fastened one end of the rope to +the projecting head of the axe, and the other to my waist, and launched +myself over the ridge into space. Fortunate, most fortunate again, as in +the hurry of the moment I had attached the rope below my own centre of +gravity, that I was light-headed. Had this not been the case, assuredly I +should have dangled feet uppermost over the abyss. Not a moment too soon. +The avalanche dashed up the slope, grinding the axe to powder, but by good +luck entangling the rope between the massive blocks and carrying it up, +with myself attached, nearly 100 metres--I should say 300 feet--above where +I had previously stood. I had accomplished in a moment what might have +cost hours of toil. Again it was sublime. The thought crossed my mind that +the sublime often approaches the ridiculous. But the rocks, previously +broken up, had been ground by the sweeping avalanche into a surface smooth +as polished steel. How to descend these again! Banish the thought! The +mountain was not yet climbed. Upwards, past yawning sracs, towering +bergschrunds, slippery crevasses, gaping artes, I made my way. For a few +hundred feet I bounded upwards with great rapidity. Despite the rugged +nature of the rocks everything went smoothly. Of a sudden a terrible +obstacle was presented to my gaze. I felt that all my hopes seemingly were +dashed. A stupendous cleft, riving the mountain's side to an unfathomable +depth, barred further progress. From top to bottom both sides of the chasm +overhung; and far below, where they joined, the angle of meeting was so +sharp that I felt that I must infallibly be wedged in without hope of +extrication if I fell. For a few moments I hesitated, but only for a few. +Close by was a tower of rock, smooth and vertical, some twelve feet +high--the height of two men, in fact. No handhold save on the top. This was +but a simple matter. Had any one else been with me, I should have stood on +his shoulders; as it was I stood on my own head. Thus I climbed to the +summit of the pointed obelisk of rock. Exactly opposite, on the farther +side of the cleft, was a similar rock cone, but the distance was too great +to spring across. I was in a dilemma--on one horn of it, in fact; how to +get to the other! I adopted an ingenious plan. Taking my trusty axe, I +placed the pointed end in a little notch in the rock, and then, with +herculean strength, bent the staff and wedged the head also into a notch. +The trusty axe was now bent like a bow. Again I hesitated before trusting +myself to the bow; in fact, it was long before I drew it. But a former +experience stood me in good stead. Once before, driven by a less powerful +impetus--merely that of a human leg--I had flown through a greater distance. +I made up my mind, and, summoning all my fortitude, placed my back against +the arc and, lightly touching one end, released the spring. Instantly I +felt myself propelled straight into mid-air, and before I had time to +realise the success of my scheme, was flung against the pinnacle on the +opposite side and embraced it. What were my feelings on finding that this +huge pinnacle had no more stability than a ninepin, and as my weight came +on to it slowly heeled over! Nor was this all. Slowly, like the pendulum +of a metronome, it rolled back again, and I found to my horror that I was +clinging to the apex of the rock, and dangling right over the chasm! I +cannot recall that in all my adventures I had ever been in a precisely +similar situation. However, a hasty calculation satisfied me that the +rocking crag must again right itself. As I expected, it did so, and as the +pinnacle of rock swung back once more to the perpendicular I sprang from +it with all my force. The impetus landed me safe, but the crag toppled +over into the abyss. Here I noted an interesting scientific fact. Taking +out my watch, I was able to estimate, by the depth of the cleft, the +height I had already climbed. _The boulder took a minute and a half in +falling before it reached anywhere._ I own that the escape was a narrow +one, and even my unblushing cheek paled a little at the thought of it. But +I could not be far now, I hoped, from the summit; and, indeed, the +condition of a dead bird which it so happened lay on the rocks--in a +passive sense--convinced me that the summit of the lofty peak was close at +hand. But few obstacles now remained. Another step or two revealed a +glassy unbroken rock cone leading to the summit. It seemed impossible at +first to surmount it, but my resources were not yet at an end. Dragging +off my boots, I tore out with my teeth the long nails and drove them in +one after another. By this means I ascended the first half of the final +peak; but then the supply of nails was exhausted, and I felt that time +would not permit me to draw out the lower nails and place them in +succession above the others. Luckily I still carried with me a flask of +the execrable _petit vin_ supplied by Mons. ---- of the inn below. I applied +a little to the rock. The effect was magical. In a moment the hard face +was softened to the consistence of cheese, and with my trusty axe I had no +difficulty in scraping out small steps. The worst was now over. Just as +the shades of night were gathering softly around, I stepped with the proud +consciousness of victory on to the very highest point. This indeed was +sublime. The toil of years was accomplished; it seemed almost a dream. +Nerved to frenzy, with a mighty sweep of the axe I struck off a huge block +from the summit to carry away as a token of conquest, and planting the +weapon in the hole, tore off garment after garment to make a suitable +flag; only did I desist on reflecting that it would become barely possible +for me to descend if I acted thus. Intoxicated with victory, I shouted and +sang for a while, and then turned to the descent. The night was fast +closing in, but this mattered not, for I made light of all the obstacles, +and they were so numerous that I succeeded perfectly by this means in +seeing my way. Faster and faster I sped along, descending with ease over +the blocks and fragments of the morning's avalanche. Now and again the +descent was assisted by fastening the rope securely to projecting crags, +and then allowing myself to slide down to its full length. Then I went up +again, untied the rope, fastened it anew below, and repeated the manoeuvre. +Thus at midnight I reached the edge of the cliff, at the foot of which my +companions had been left in the morning. I feared they might be anxious +for my safety, the more especially that I had not yet paid them for their +services. Peering over the edge of the vertical precipice into the murky +darkness, I called out. There was no response. Then I said 'Pst,' and +tapped the glassy slope with my pocket knife. Even this plan failed to +attract their attention. I shouted with still more force. Finally, +standing up on the edge of the cliff, I sent forth a shout so terribly +loud that it must have waked even a sleeping adder. A fatal error! for the +reverberation of my voice was echoed back with such fearful force from a +neighbouring crag that the shock struck me backwards, and in a moment I +was flying through mid-air--to annihilation." + + * * * * * * + +"There is a blank in this narrative which I can never fill up. This only +do I know; that when I came again to my senses, I was warmly ensconced in +a blanket, whilst my companions stood around in a circle shivering, as +they gazed at me with amazement. Their account, which I can scarcely +credit, was that as they were engaged in stretching out and shaking a +blanket preparatory to spreading their bed for the night, an apparently +heaven-sent form had descended from above into the very middle of it; the +shock tore the blanket from their grasp, and in a twinkling I lay wrapt up +safe and comfortable at their feet." + +(M137) + +Such is the fragment. It has been thought better to present it as far as +possible in its original form, and without any editing. That the account +is a little highly coloured perhaps in parts may be allowed, but some +licence may legitimately be accorded to an author who is no empty dreamer, +but has evidently experienced some rather exciting episodes. + + + + + + CHAPTER X. + + + THE FUTURE OF MOUNTAINEERING + + + Mountaineers and their critics--The early days of the Alpine + Club--The founders of mountaineering--The growth of the + amusement--Novelty and exploration--The formation of + centres--Narrowing of the field of mountaineering--The upward limit + of mountaineering--De Saussure's experience--Modern development of + climbing--Mr. Whymper's experience--Mr. Graham's experience--The + ascent of great heights--Mr. Grove's views--Messrs. Coxwell and + Glaisher's balloon experiences--Reasons for dissenting from Mr. + Glaisher's views--The possibility of ascending Mount + Everest--Physiological aspect of the question--Acclimatisation to + great heights--The direction in which mountaineering should be + developed--The results that may be obtained--Chamouni a century + hence--A Rip van Winkle in the Pennine Alps--The dangers of + mountaineering--Conclusion. + + +(M138) + +From time to time, when some accident has happened in the Alps, the press +and the public have been pleased to take such unfortunate occurrence as a +text, and to preach serious sermons to mountaineers. We have been called +hard names in our time; we have been accused of fostering an amusement of +no earthly-practical good, and one which has led to "miserable" waste of +valuable life. Gentle expressions of animadversion, such as "criminal +folly," "reckless venture, which has no better purpose than the +gratification of a caprice or the indulgence of a small ambition," "a +subject of humiliating interest," and the like, have at times been freely +used. But it is well known to authors and to dramatists that criticisms of +a nature known as "smashing" are not, on the whole, always to be deplored, +and are occasionally the best to enhance the success of the work. The +novel or play, however unreservedly condemned by the reviewer, has got +some chance of living if it be hinted that some of the situations in it +are a little _risques_; and to a great many the idea seems constantly +present that mountaineering owes its principal attraction to the element +of risk inseparable from its pursuit. As an absolute matter of fact such +is not the case. Apart from this, however, mountaineers may be thankful +that the critics in question have, when they noticed our doings at all, +condemned us very heartily indeed, and thundered forth their own +strictures on our folly in sonorous terms; in fact, attacks of this nature +have by no means impaired the vitality of such associations as Alpine +clubs, but rather, like attacks of distemper in dogs, have increased their +value. + +It would be easy enough, from the mountaineer's point of view, and in a +work which, at the best, can interest only those who have some sympathy +with climbing as a pure pastime, to pass over these hard words, and to +reckon them as merely the vapourings of envious mortals not initiated into +the mysteries of the mountaineering craft; but such criticisms may lead or +perhaps reflect public opinion, and are not, therefore, to be treated +lightly. It might be held that for any notice to be taken at all is +complimentary, and we might seek shelter in the epigrammatic saying that +he who has no enemies has no character; that though hope may spring +eternal in the human breast, jealousy is a trait still more constantly +found. But this line of argument is not one to be adopted. The _tu quoque_ +style of defence is not one well calculated to gain a verdict. No doubt +the question has been treated often enough before, and in discussing it +the writer may seem but to be doing what nowadays the climber is forced to +do in the Alps--namely, wander again, perhaps ramble, over ground that has +been well trodden many times before. But the conditions have changed +greatly since mountaineering first became a popular pastime, and since the +first editions of "Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers" were rapidly sold out. It +is, the writer fears, only too true in these latter days that mountaineers +may be classified as Past and Present. Whether a third class may be added +of "the Future" is a question--to be answered, I hope, in the affirmative. + +(M139) + +The Alpine Club was founded in 1857 by a few ardent devotees to what was +then an entirely new form of pastime. The original members of that club +could never have even dreamed of the wide popularity mountaineering was +destined to acquire, or the influence that the establishment of the Alpine +Club was to have on it; and, like the fish in an aquarium, they can hardly +have known what they were in for. In the present day there are Alpine +clubs in almost every country in Europe, and in some countries there are +several, numbering their members in some cases by thousands. Nor is it +only on the continent of Europe that there are mountaineering clubs. Not +that the writer ventures to assert that every member of this multitude is +devoted to the high Alps, or that it is in the least degree essential to +climb high and difficult mountains in order to learn the fascination of +their natural beauties. It may be pointed out, however, that the +"miserable waste of valuable life" is in the greatest part not on the +great peaks and passes, but on little hills. Every year we read of +accidents on mountains such as the Faulhorn, the Monte Salvatore in the +Alps, or Snowdon, Helvellyn and the like in our own country. Possibly +these disasters might never have taken place had the experience of +mountaineering craft gained in high regions been properly appreciated and +utilised. The good surgeon is he who, utilising all his own and all his +predecessors' experience, recognises, and makes provision against, all the +risks that may conceivably be involved in the most trifling operation he +may be called upon to perform; and holiday ramblers in our own land and in +sub-Alpine regions might, not without advantage, profit by the example. + +(M140) + +Five-and-twenty years ago in Switzerland there were numberless heights +untrodden, passes uncrossed, and regions unexplored. Then, moreover, there +were comparatively but few to cross the passes or climb the mountains; but +those few did mighty deeds. Peak after peak fell before them, while slowly +but surely they opened up new regions and brought unexpected beauties to +light. In those days climbing as an art was but in its infancy, restricted +to a few amateurs specially qualified to pursue it, and to a very limited +number of guides--merely those, in fact (not such a numerous class as +people seem generally to imagine), who had made chamois-hunting one of the +principal objects of their lives. Gradually the art became more developed, +and with the increase of power thus acquired came increase of confidence. +From the fact that the training in the mountaineering art was gradual, it +was necessarily thorough--a fact that a good many climbers would do well to +bear in mind in these latter days. Then, of course, the charm of novelty, +so dear to the mountaineer, was seldom absent; he could strike out right +or left and find virgin soil; but in quest of novelty search had to be +made before long in remote regions. It followed that exploration was not +limited, and the early pioneers of mountaineering could, and did learn +more of the geography and varied beauties of the Alps in a single season +than their followers do, in the present day, in five or six. + +After a while the fashion of mountaineering altered sensibly, and a strong +conservatism sprang up. Certain districts became more and more frequented; +certain peaks acquired special popularity, either because they were +conveniently placed and ready of access; or because there was a certain +touch of romance about them, as in the case of the Matterhorn; or because +they had acquired the reputation of being difficult, and it was thought +that a successful ascent would stamp the climber at once as a skilful +person and a very daring creature. Thus places like Zermatt, Grindelwald, +Chamouni, and the ggischhorn became the great centres of mountaineering, +and have remained so ever since. Independent exploration gradually gave +way to the charm of meeting others bent on the same pursuit of climbing; +but this feeling was not without its drawbacks, and tended to check what +has been called cosmopolitanism in mountaineering. How few, even among +those who visit the Alps regularly, know anything whatever of such large, +important, and interesting districts as the Silvretta group, the Rheinwald +group, or the Lepontine Alps! while districts like Zermatt are thronged +and crowded, and the mountains absolutely done to death. Not that it is +hard to understand how this narrowing of the field of mountaineering has +been brought about. There comes a time of life to most men when they find +more pleasure in meeting old friends than in making new acquaintances; and +the same feeling would appear to extend to the mountains. + +It must be confessed here that the writer is disposed to look upon +mountaineering in the Alps, in the sense in which it has hitherto been +known, as a pastime that will before long become extinct. In some soils +trees grow with extraordinary rapidity and vigour, but do not strike their +roots very deep, and so are prone to early decay. Still, it does not +follow that, even should these pessimist forebodings prove true, and +climbing be relegated to the limbo of archaic pursuits, the Alps will not +attract their thousands as they have done for many years. The dearth of +novelty is sometimes held to be the principal cause that will eventually +lead to the decay of mountaineering. There is a reasonable probability, +however, to judge from the Registrar-General's reports, that the world +will still be peopled some time hence, and possibly a generation will then +arise of mountaineering revivalists who, never having tasted the flavour +of novelty in Alpine climbing, will not perceive that its absence is any +loss. Yet in the Alps alone many seem to forget that, while they are +exhausting in every detail a few spots, there are numerous and varied +expeditions of similar nature still to be accomplished, the scenes of +which lie within a few hours of London. It is of course only to +mountaineering as a semi-fashionable craze that these remarks apply. The +knowledge of the art, acquired primarily in the Alps, which has led to the +development of mountaineering as a science will not be wasted, and the +training acquired in holiday expeditions, when amusement or the regaining +of health was the principal object, can be turned to valuable practical +account elsewhere. So shall there be a future for mountaineering. No doubt +but few may be able to find the opportunity, unless indeed they make it +somewhat of a profession, of exploring the great mountainous districts +still almost untouched--such, for instance, as the Himalayas. But it is in +some such direction as this that the force of the stream, somewhat tending +to dry up in its original channel, will, it may be hoped, spread in the +future. + +(M141) + +It has already been shown, by the results of many modern expeditions, that +the old views that obtained with respect to the upward limit of +mountaineering must, to say the least, be considerably modified. From +early times the question of the effects of rarefied air in high regions on +mountaineers has attracted attention. As a matter of fact the subject is +still barely in its infancy. A few remarks on this point may not perhaps +be thought too technical, for they bear, I hope, on the mountaineering of +the future. + +It is matter of notoriety that in these days travellers seem less subject +to discomfort in the high Alps than in former times. De Saussure, for +instance, in the account of his famous ascent of Mont Blanc in 1787, +speaks a good deal of the difficulty of respiration. At his bivouac on the +Plateau, at an elevation of 13,300 feet, the effects of the rarefied air +were much commented on; and these remarks are the more valuable, inasmuch +as De Saussure was a man of science and a most acute observer; while his +account, a thing too rare in these days, is characterised by extreme +modesty of description. The frequency of the respirations, he observed, +which ensued on any exertion caused great fatigue. Nowadays, however, +pedestrians, often untrained, may be seen daily ascending at a very much +faster pace than De Saussure seems to have gone, and yet the effects are +scarcely felt. No one now expects much to suffer from this cause, and no +one does. In recent times we hear accounts of ascents of mountains like +Elbruz, 18,526 feet, by Mr. Grove and others; of Cotopaxi, 19,735 feet, +and Chimborazo, 20,517(7) feet, by Mr. Whymper; and the most recent, and +by far the most remarkable, of Kabru in the Himalayas, about 24,000 feet, +by Mr. Graham. In all these expeditions the travellers spent nights in +bivouacs far above the level of the Grand Plateau where De Saussure +encamped. We cannot suppose that in the Caucasus, the Andes, or the +Himalayas the air differs much from that of the Alps with regard to its +rarefaction effects on travellers. In fact, the Alpine traveller would in +this respect probably be much better off, for the general conditions +surrounding him would be more like those to which he was accustomed. He +would not have, for instance, to contend with the effects of changed or +meagre diet or unaccustomed climate. + +(M142) + +Mr. F. C. Grove, a very high authority on such a point, in his description +of the ascent of Elbruz, in the course of some remarks on the rarity of +the air, states his belief that at some height or another, less than that +of the loftiest mountain, there must be a limit at which no amount of +training and good condition will enable a man to live; and he says, "It +may be taken for granted that no human being could walk to the top of +Mount Everest."(8) This was written in 1875; but a great deal has happened +since then, though the same opinion is still very generally entertained. +But with this opinion I cannot coincide at all, for reasons that appear to +me logically conclusive. In the first place, a party of three, composed of +Mr. Graham, Herr Emil Boss, and the Swiss guide Kauffman, have ascended +more than 5,000 feet higher than the top of Elbruz, and none of the party +experienced any serious effect, or, indeed, apparently any effect at all +other than those naturally incidental to severe exertion. It must be +admitted that one result of their expedition was to prove, tolerably +conclusively, that Mount Everest is not the highest mountain in the world. +Still, until it is officially deposed, it may be taken, for argument's +sake, as the ultimate point. Now, it would seem to be beyond doubt that a +man, being transported to a height much greater than Mount Everest, can +still live. In Messrs. Coxwell and Glaisher's famous balloon ascent from +Wolverhampton on September 5, 1862, described in "Travels in the Air," it +was computed that the travellers reached a height of nearly 37,000 +feet,(9) and this in less than an hour from the time of leaving the earth. +Deduct 5,000 feet from this computation, to allow for possible error, and +we still have a height left of 32,000 feet, an elevation, that is, very +considerably greater than the summit of Mount Everest--possibly a greater +elevation than the summit of any mountain. Life then, it is proved, can be +sustained at such a height, and the point that remains for consideration +is whether the necessary exertion of walking or climbing to the same +height would render the actual ascent impossible. + +(M143) + +Since the days of De Saussure some 8,000 feet have been added to the +height to which the possibility of ascending has been proved. It seems to +me unreasonable to assume that another 5,000 feet may not yet be added, +and arbitrary to conclude that at some point higher than Kabru but lower +than Mount Everest the limit of human endurance must necessarily be +reached. Mr. Glaisher himself does not appear to think that, from his +experience, any such ascent as that we have been considering would be +possible for an Alpine traveller (_op. cit._ p. 21 and elsewhere). But, +with every deference to so great an authority, a few considerations may be +submitted which tend most seriously to invalidate his conclusions and +opinions, and which may serve to show also that the effects of rarefied +air probably differ more widely in the two cases of the aronaut and the +mountaineer than is generally supposed. Writing in 1871, Mr. Glaisher +says,(10) "At a height of three miles I never experienced any annoyance or +discomfort; yet there is no ascent I think of Mont Blanc in which great +inconvenience and severe _pain_ have not been felt at a height of 13,000 +feet; but then, as before remarked, this is an elevation attained only +after two days of excessive toil." Mr. Glaisher is here referring chiefly +to Dr. Hamel's ascent of Mont Blanc, and would seem apparently to be +unaware that, long before he wrote, the ascent of Mont Blanc, from +Chamouni and back to the same place, had been accomplished within +twenty-four hours. In 1873, if my memory serves me right, Mr. Passingham +started from Chamouni, ascended the mountain, and returned to his hotel in +a little less than twenty hours.(11) Compare such an ascent as this--not by +any means an isolated instance--with De Saussure's experience, and when we +consider how remarkable has been the development of mountaineering in this +direction, we may surely hold that to fix at present any absolute limit is +unduly arbitrary. Further, the ascents of Chimborazo and the other +mountains named above have all been accomplished since Mr. Glaisher wrote. +Mr. Glaisher states that the aronaut may acclimatise himself to great +heights by repeated ascents; but how much more may the mountaineer then +hope to do so! The aronaut necessarily makes ascents rapidly(12) and at +rare intervals. The mountaineer can acclimatise himself to high regions by +a constant and gradual process, a method obviously better calculated to +extend the limits of his endurance. + +Of course I am only discussing the actual possibility, not entering into +the question for a moment of whether it is worth while to do it. It may be +that to attempt an ascent of Mount Everest would prove almost as rash an +undertaking as an endeavour to swim through the Niagara rapids--that is, if +the mountaineering difficulties are so great as to make the two instances +parallel. Two points have to be considered: one, that, granted the +desirability of making such an ascent, we do not yet fully know the best +manner of undertaking it; and another, that we are still very ignorant as +to the physiological effects of rarefied air on the human frame.(13) + +(M144) + +With regard to the first point, we know indeed this much--that, granted +good condition, a man can "acclimatise" himself to great heights, and when +so acclimatised he can undergo much more exertion in very high regions +with much less effect. The experience of Mr. Whymper in the Andes, and of +Mr. Graham and others in the Himalayas, has shown this conclusively +enough. Let a man sleep at a height, say, of 18,000 feet, and then ascend +from that point another 3,000 or 4,000 feet; he may possibly feel the +effects to be so great that an attempt to sleep again at the latter height +would render him incapable of exertion the next day, as far as an ascent +is concerned. Let him descend till he can bivouac, say at 20,000 feet, and +then again try, starting afresh. After a while he would be able to +accomplish still more than at his first attempt; and so on, until he +reached the summit. But even supposing that no amount of acclimatisation +enables him to accomplish his end, he has other weapons in his armoury. + +(M145) + +The second point mentioned above is that the physiological effects of +rarefied air on the human economy are but little known; were these +understood the resources of science might be called in to obviate them. It +may be said that no amount of science will obviate the very simple fact +that exertion causes fatigue, but the answer is that we have no real idea +of all the causes which lead to this fatigue. This is not the place to +speculate on a somewhat abstruse and unquestionably complicated +physiological problem, but the direction in which the question may be +approached from the scientific side is worthy of being pointed out. This +much may be said, however, that when we talk of strong heart and strong +lungs in connection with the question of the possibility of ascending on +foot to the greatest altitudes, we are only, from the physiological point +of view, taking into account one or two factors, and perhaps not the most +important ones. The cavillers may be reminded that physiology is not and +never will become a finite science. To my mind at least, as far as human +endurance is concerned, it would be no more surprising to me to hear that +a man had succeeded in walking up Mount Everest than to know that a man +can succeed in standing an arctic climate while on a sledging expedition. +Objections like the difficulty of arranging for a supply of food, of +expense, of risk, and so forth, are not taken into account--they are really +beside the question: they have not proved insuperable obstacles in the +case of arctic exploration; they will not prove insurmountable to the +ambitious mountaineer we are contemplating. I do not for a moment say that +it would be wise to ascend Mount Everest, but I believe most firmly that +it is humanly possible to do so; and, further, I feel sure that, even in +our own time, perhaps, the truth of these views will receive material +corroboration. Mount Everest itself may offer insuperable mountaineering +obstacles, but in the unknown, unseen district to the north there may be +peaks of equal height presenting no more technical difficulties than Mont +Blanc or Elbruz. + +(M146) + +From the purely athletic point of view, then, the mountaineering +experience which has been gained almost exclusively in the Alps may, by a +still further development in the future, enable the climber so to develop +the art that he may reach the highest elevation on this world's crust; and +he may do this without running undue risk. _Cui bono?_ it may be asked; +and it is nearly as hard to answer the question as it is to explain to the +supine and unaspiring person the good that may be expected to accrue to +humanity by reaching the North Pole; yet the latter project, albeit to +some it seems like a struggle of man against physical forces which make or +mar worlds, is one that is held to be right and proper to be followed. At +the least an observer, even of limited powers, may reasonably be expected, +supposing he accomplished such a feat as the ascent of Mount Everest, to +bring back results of equal scientific value with the arctic traveller, +while the purely geographical information he should gain would have +fiftyfold greater practical value. The art and science of mountaineering +has been learned and developed in the Alps, and the acquirement of this +learning has been a pleasure to many. If the holiday nature of +mountaineering should in the future be somewhat dropped, and if a few of +those who follow should take up the more serious side, and make what has +been a pastime into a profession (and why should not some do so? That +which is worth doing at all is worth developing to the utmost possible +limit), good will come, unless it be argued that there is no gain in +extending geographical knowledge; and no advantage in rectifying surveys +and rendering them as accurate as possible. As has been remarked by Mr. +Douglas Freshfield, the advantage of including in survey parties, such as +are still engaged on our Indian frontier, the services of some who have +made mountaineering a branch to be learnt in their profession, would be +very distinct. Work done in the Alps would, in this direction, perhaps, +bear the best fruit and reap the highest practical value which it might be +hoped to attain. The value would be real. The search after truth, whether +it be in the fields of natural science, of geography, or its to-be-adopted +sister orography, can never fail to be right and good and beneficial. +Enthusiasm all this! you say. Granted freely. Without some enthusiasm and +energy the world would cease to turn, and the retarding section of mankind +would be triumphant, save that they would be too languid to realise the +victory of their principles. + +But still, if properly qualified men are to be forthcoming to meet such a +want, which undoubtedly seems to exist, the old training-ground must not +be deserted; the playground of Europe must be regarded in relation to +serious work in the same light that the playing-fields of Eton were +regarded by one who was somewhat of an authority. The Great Duke's remark +is too well known to need quotation. English folk may find it hard to hold +their own against their near relations in athletic pursuits, such as +cricket and sculling, but in mountaineering they undoubtedly lead, and +will continue to do so. In one phase indeed of the pursuit their supremacy +is menaced. In the matter of recognising the practical value to be +obtained from mountaineering in surveying and the like, they are already +behind other countries. The roll of honorary members of the Alpine Club +comprises a list of men, most of whom have utilised their mountaineering +experience to good purpose in advancing scientific exploration. In this +department it is to be hoped that we shall not suffer ourselves to be +outstripped, nor allow a store of valuable and laboriously acquired +experience to remain wasted. The threatening cloud may pass off; the +future of Alpine mountaineering may not prove to be so gloomy as it +sometimes seems to the writer in danger of gradually becoming. The +depression is, possibly, only temporary, and a natural consequence of +reaction; and the zigzagging line on the chart, though it may never +perhaps rise again to the point it once marked, yet may keep well at the +normal--better, perhaps, at such a level than at fever heat. The old cry +that we know so well on the mountains, that meets always with a ready +thrill of response, may acquire a wider significance, and men will be +found to answer to the familiar call of "Vorwrts, immer vorwrts!" + +After all, a century hence the mountaineering centres of to-day will +perhaps still attract as they do now. It may be possible to get to +Chamouni without submitting to the elaborately devised discomfort of the +present Channel passage, and without the terrors of asphyxiation in the +carriages of the Chemin de Fer du Nord. Surely the charm of the mountains +must always draw men to the Alps, even though the glaciers may have shrunk +up and sunk down, though places like Arolla and the Grimsel may have +become thriving towns, or radical changes such as a drainage system at +Chamouni have been instituted. If the glaciers do shrink, there will be +all the more scope for the rock climber and the more opportunity of +perfecting an art which has already been so much developed. + +(M147) + +A Rip van Winkle of our day, waking up in that epoch of the future, would +for certain find much that was unaltered. The same types of humanity would +be around him. Conceive this somnolent hero of fiction, clad in a felt +wideawake that had once been white, in knickerbockers and Norfolk jacket, +of which the seams had at one time held together, supporting his bent +frame and creaking joints on a staff with rusted spike and pick. He +descends laboriously from a vehicle that had jolted impartially +generations before him (for the carriages of the valley are as little +liable to wear out, in the eyes of their proprietors, as the "wonderful +one-hoss shay"). He finds himself on a summer evening by the Htel de +Ville at Chamouni, and facing the newly erected Opera-house. He looks with +wondering eyes around. A youth (great-great-great-great-grandson of +Jacques Balmat) approaches and waits respectfully by his side, ready to +furnish information. + +"Why these flags and these rejoicings?" the old man asks. + +"To celebrate the tercentenary of the first ascent of Mont Blanc," the boy +answers. + +The veteran gazes around, shading his eyes with his shrivelled hand. The +travellers come in. First a triumphal procession of successful and +intrepid mountaineers. Banners wave, cannon go off--or more probably miss +fire--bouquets are displayed, champagne and compliments are poured out; +both the latter expressions of congratulation equally gassy, and both +about equally genuine. + +"Who are these?" the old man inquires. + +"Do you not see the number on their banner?" answers the youth; "they are +the heroes of the forty-fifth section of the tenth branch of the northern +division of the Savoy Alpine Club." + +"Ah!" the old man murmurs to himself, with a sigh of recollection, "I can +remember that they were numerous even in my day." + +Then follows a sad-looking, dejected creature, stealing back to his hotel +by byways, but with face bronzed from exposure on rocks, not scorched by +sun-reflecting snow; his boots scored with multitudinous little cuts and +scratches telling of difficult climbing; his hands as brown as his face; +his finger-nails, it must be admitted, seriously impaired in their +symmetry. + +"And who is this? Has he been guilty of some crime?" the old man asks. + +"Not so," the answer comes; "he has just completed the thousandth ascent +of the Aiguille...; he comes of a curious race which, history relates, at +one time much frequented these districts; but that was a great while +ago--long before the monarchy was re-established. You do well to look at +him; that is the last of the climbing Englishmen. They always seem +depressed when they have succeeded in achieving their ambition of the +moment; it is a characteristic of their now almost extinct race." + +(M148) + +"And what about the perils of the expedition?" the old man asks, +brightening up a little as if some old ideas had suddenly flashed across +his mind. "I would fain know whether the journey is different now from +what it was formerly; yet the heroes would mock me, perchance, if I were +to interrogate them." + +"Not at all," the youth replies. "There are but few of the first party who +would not vouchsafe to give you a full account, and might even in their +courtesy embellish the narrative with flowers of rhetoric. But it is +unnecessary. They will print a detailed and full description of their +exploits. It has all been said before, but so has everything else, I +think." + +"That is true," the old man murmurs to himself; "it was even so in my +time, and two hundred years before I lived a French writer commenced his +book with the remark, '_Tout est dit._' But what of the other, the +dejected survivor? does he not too write?" + +"Yes, indeed, but not in the same strain; he will but pour out a little +gentle sarcasm and native spleen, in mild criticism of the fulsome periods +he peruses in other tongues." + +"Ah me!" thinks the old man, "in one respect then I need not prove so much +behind the time. If the memory of the Alpine literature of my day were +still fresh, I could hold mine own with those I see around." + +May I be permitted, in conclusion, to come back to our own day, and to say +a very few words on the subject of mountaineering accidents? Most heartily +would I concur with any one who raised the objection that such remarks are +out of place in a chapter on the mountaineering of the future. But perhaps +we have been looking too far ahead, and there may be a period to follow +between this our time and the future to be hoped for. + +(M149) + +It has sometimes been stated and written that no one desires to remove +from mountaineering all danger. The dangers of mountaineering have been +divided by a well-known authority into real and imaginary. The supposed +existence of the latter is, I grant, desirable, especially to the +inexperienced climber; but I shall always contend that it ought to be the +great object of every votary of the pursuit to minimise the former to the +utmost of his ability. Now, it is only by true experience--that is, by +learning gradually the art of mountaineering--that the climber will achieve +this result. Few of those unacquainted with the subject can have any idea +of the extraordinary difference between the risk run on a difficult +expedition (that is, on one where difficulties occur: the name of the peak +or pass has little to do with the matter) by a practised mountaineer who +has learned something of the art, and an inexperienced climber who has +nothing but the best intentions to assist his steps. The man of experience +bears always in mind the simple axioms and rules of his craft; if he does +not he is a bad mountaineer. If the plain truth be told, accidents in the +Alps have almost invariably, to whomsoever they befell, been due to +breaking one or more of these same well-known rules, or, in other words, +to bad mountaineering. That such is no more than a simple statement of +fact a former president of the Alpine Club, Mr. C. E. Mathews, has +abundantly proved.(14) Numbers of our countrymen, young and old, annually +rush out to the Alps for the first time. Fired with ambition, or led on by +the fascination of the pastime, with scarcely any preliminary training and +no preliminary study of the subject, they at once begin to attack the more +difficult peaks and passes. Success perhaps attends their efforts. Unfit, +they go up a difficult mountain, trusting practically to the ability of +the guides to do their employers' share of the work as well as their own. +They descend, and think to gauge their skill by the name of the expedition +undertaken. The state of the weather and of the mountain determine whether +such a performance be an act of simple or of culpable folly. For such the +imaginary dangers are the most formidable. If they had taken the trouble +to begin at the beginning, to learn the difference between the stem and +stern of a boat before attempting to navigate an ironclad, they would have +recognised, and profited by, the true risks run. As it is, they are +probably inflated with conceit at overcoming visionary difficulties. They +may make, indeed, in this way what in Alpine slang is called a good +"book;" but by far the greater number fail to perceive that there is +anything to learn. It is a pastime--an amusement; they do not look beyond +this. But these same climbers would admit that in other forms of sport, +such as cricket or rowing, proficiency is not found in beginners. It is in +the study and development of the amusement that the true and deeper +pleasure is to be found. A tyro in cricket would make himself an object of +ridicule in a high-class match; the novice in the art of rowing would be +loth to display his feeble powers if thrust into a racing four with three +tried oarsmen; and yet the embryo climber can see nothing absurd in +attacking mountains of recognised difficulty. Inexperience in the former +instances at least could cause no harm, while ignorance of the elementary +principles of mountaineering renders the climber a serious source of +danger not only to himself but to others. There is no royal road to the +acquirement of mountaineering knowledge. It is just as difficult to use +the axe or alpenstock properly as the oar or the racquet; just as much +patient, persevering practice is needed; but it is not on difficult +expeditions that such inexperience can be best overcome. + +(M150) + +A man of average activity could, probably, actually climb, without any +particular experience, most of, or all, the more difficult rock peaks +under good conditions of weather and the like. But how different from the +really practical mountaineer, who strives to make an art of his pastime. +Watch the latter. First and foremost, he knows when to turn back, and does +not hesitate to act as his judgment directs. He bears in mind that there +is pleasure to be obtained from mountaineering even though the programme +may not be carried out in its entirety as planned, and realises to the +full that + + 'Tis better to have climbed and failed + Than never to have climbed at all. + +His companions are always safe with him, his climbing unselfish; he never +dislodges a loose stone--except purposely--either with hands, feet, or the +loose rope; he is always as firm as circumstances will permit, prepared to +withstand any sudden slip; he never puts forth more strength at each step +than is necessary, thus saving his powers, being always ready in an +emergency, and never degenerating into that most dangerous of +encumbrances, a tired member of a united party: not, of course, that the +vast majority of amateurs can ever hope, with their imperfect practice, to +attain to the level of even a second-rate guide; still, by bringing his +intelligence to bear on this, as he does on any other amusement, the +amateur can render himself something more than a thoroughly reliable +companion on any justifiable expedition. + +(M151) + +Let the spirit of competition lead young climbers to strive after +excellence in this direction, rather than, as is too commonly the case, +induce them to take "Times" as the criterion of mountaineering +proficiency. There are instructors enough. Even from an inferior guide an +infinite amount may be learnt; at the least such a one can recognise the +real danger of the Alps, and in this respect possesses a faculty which is +one of the chief the mountaineer has to acquire. Let the spirit in which +the Alps are climbed be of some such nature as that I have attempted to +indicate, and accidents such as those recorded in Mr. C. E. Mathews' grim +list will be of such rare occurrence that they will never be called up to +discredit mountaineering. If, perchance, any words here written shall +prompt in the future the climber to perfect his art more and more while +frequenting the old haunts, and to extend and utilise mountaineering still +more, then at least the writer may feel, like the mountain when it had +brought forth the ridiculous mouse, that his labour has not been wholly in +vain. Yet more: his gloomy forebodings shall be falsified, and with +respect to the future of mountaineering the outlook will be bright enough. + + + + + LONDON: PRINTED BY + SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE + AND PARLIAMENT STREET + + + + + + + FOOTNOTES + + + M1 The survival of the unfit + M2 Sybaritic mountaineering + M3 The growth of the climbing craze + M4 A tropical day in the valley + M5 A deserted hostelry + M6 The hut above Fe + M7 How ruin seized a roofless thing + M8 On sleeping out + M9 The Sdlenzspitz + M10 A plea for Saas and Fe + M11 We attack the Sdlenzspitz + M12 The art of probing snow + M13 Sentiment on a summit + M14 The feast is spread + M15 Fact and romance + M16 The thirst for novelty + M17 Rock v. snow mountains + M18 The amateur and the guide + M19 The guides' room + + 1 Franz Andermatten died in August 1883. His name is mentioned + elsewhere in these sketches, but I leave what I have written + untouched: for I do not hold with those who would efface the + recollection of all that was bright and merry in one taken from us. + + M20 A false start + M21 Falling stones in the gully + M22 Effects of reaching a summit + M23 A narrow escape + M24 The youthful tourist + M25 Hotel trials + M26 The gushers + M27 The last peaks to surrender + M28 The Aiguille du Dru + M29 The first attempt + + 2 In the old house, be it noted--not the modern luxurious combination + of a granite fortress and a palace. + + M30 First attempt on the peak + M31 Huts and sleeping out + M32 The Chamouni guide system + M33 A word on guides + M34 A landlord's peculiarities + M35 We see a chamois + +_ 3 Travels in the Alps_, p. 119. + + M36 Doubts as to the peak + M37 Telescopic observations + M38 Franz and his mighty axe + M39 A start in the wrong direction + M40 An adjournment + M41 The expedition resumed + M42 A sticking point + M43 Beaten back + M44 Results gained + M45 Autres temps, autres moeurs + M46 The diligence arrives + M47 The Alpine habitue + M48 A family party + M49 A sepulchral bivouac + M50 On early starts + M51 The rocks of the Bietschhorn + M52 Avalanches on the Bietschhorn + M53 A dramatic situation + M54 The united party nearly fall out + M55 A limited panorama + M56 A race for home + M57 Caught out + M58 The water jump + M59 A classical banquet + M60 The old cure + M61 A "pension" in a train + M62 A youthful hero + M63 A scientific gentleman + M64 A dream of the future + M65 A condensed mountain ascent + M66 Wanted, a programme + M67 The Aiguille du Midi + M68 Ephemeral acquaintances + M69 A familiar character + M70 Halting doubts and fears + M71 The storm gathers + M72 "From gay to grave" + M73 The storm breaks + M74 A battle with the elements + M75 Beating the air + M76 Descent down Valle Blanche + M77 A scanty repast + M78 A projected expedition + M79 Expeditions on the Aig. du Dru + M80 Other climbers attack the peak + M81 We try the northern side + M82 The mountain fever recurs + M83 The campaign opens + M84 A new leader + M85 Our sixteenth attempt + M86 Sports and pastimes + M87 Apparel oft proclaims the man + + 4 Described in anatomical text-books as forming the swelling of the + calf. + + M88 A canine acquaintance + M89 Turning point of the expedition + M90 A difficult descent + M91 A blank in the narrative + M92 A carriage misadventure + M93 A strange guide + M94 Our "jeune premier" + M95 An acrobatic performance + M96 Our nineteenth attempt + M97 The rocks of the Dru + M98 What next? + M99 A narrow escape + + 5 It has transpired since that our judgment happened to be right in + this matter, and we might probably have saved an hour or more at + this part of the ascent. + + M100 The final scramble + M101 Our foe is vanquished + M102 On the summit + M103 The return journey + M104 Benighted + M105 Shifting scenes + M106 The camp breaks up + M107 Mountaineering morality + M108 Chamouni becomes festive + M109 Organising the ball + M110 Chamouni dances + M111 The scene closes in + M112 On well-ordered intellects + M113 The critical tendency + M114 The "High Level Route" + M115 A prescription for ill-humour + M116 A meditation on grass slopes + M117 The agile person's vagaries + M118 Ascent of the Ruinette + M119 Saas in the olden days + + 6 Hector Berlioz. + + M120 A curious omission + M121 The chef's masterpiece + M122 An evicted family + M123 A short cut after a knife + M124 The amateur + M125 Mont Buet + M126 We hire carriages + M127 The incomplete moralist + M128 The niece to the moralist + M129 A discourse on gourmets + M130 An artistic interlude + M131 We become thoughtful + M132 A vision on the summit + M133 The mountaineers perform + M134 A banquet at the chalet + M135 The end of the journey + M136 I rise equal to the occasion + M137 A highly coloured account + M138 The critics + M139 Growth of the amusement + M140 Novelty and exploration + M141 The upward limit + + 7 This is Mr. Edward Whymper's measurement. Humboldt, as quoted by Mr. + Whymper, gave 21,460 feet as the height. (_Alpine Journal_, vol. x. + p. 442.) + + M142 Mr. Grove's views + +_ 8 The Frosty Caucasus_, by F. C. Grove, p. 236. + +_ 9 Travels in the Air_, edited by James Glaisher, F.R.S., p. 57 (2nd + ed.). + + M143 Mr. Glaisher's experiences + +_ 10 Op. cit._ p. 9. + + 11 I understand that the expedition has since been accomplished in a + much shorter time. + + 12 In Messrs. Coxwell and Glaisher's ascent from Wolverhampton the + balloon when at the height of 29,000 feet was mounting at the rate + of 1,000 feet a minute. + + 13 I am aware of M. Paul Bert's researches; but these questions are not + to be settled in the laboratory. + + M144 Mountain acclimatisation + M145 Ascent of Mount Everest + M146 The value of mountaineering + M147 An Alpine Rip van Winkle + M148 Mountaineering in the future + M149 Dangers of the Alps + +_ 14 Vide_ _Alpine Journal_, vol. xi. p. 78. "The Alpine Obituary," by + C. E. Mathews. + + M150 The real mountaineer + M151 Conclusion + + + + + + TRANSCRIBER'S NOTE + + +The following changes have been made to the text: + + page ix, page number "1" added + page xiv, page number "290" changed to "291" + page 31, "gulley" changed to "gully" + page 96, "sepulchra" changed to "sepulchral" + page 113, "complicate" changed to "complicated" + page 151, "thoughful" changed to "thoughtful" + page 216, "menta" changed to "mental" + page 255, "thier" changed to "their" + page 269, "in roduction" changed to "introduction" + page 310, parenthesis added before "2nd" + page 312, "developmen" changed to "development", "gradua" changed to + "gradual" + +Variations in hyphenation (e.g. "bootlace", "boot-lace"; "doorpost", +"door-post") have not been changed. + + + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ABOVE THE SNOW LINE*** + + + + CREDITS + + +March 1, 2011 + + Project Gutenberg TEI edition 1 + Produced by Greg Bergquist, Stefan Cramme, and the Online + Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This + file was produced from images generously made available by The + Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + A WORD FROM PROJECT GUTENBERG + + +This file should be named 35434-8.txt or 35434-8.zip. + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + + + http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/3/5/4/3/35434/ + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one -- the old editions will be +renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no one +owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation (and +you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without permission +and without paying copyright royalties. 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\ No newline at end of file diff --git a/35434-8.zip b/35434-8.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f469c93 --- /dev/null +++ b/35434-8.zip diff --git a/35434-h.zip b/35434-h.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8ef8219 --- /dev/null +++ b/35434-h.zip diff --git a/35434-h/35434-h.html b/35434-h/35434-h.html new file mode 100644 index 0000000..42b6f34 --- /dev/null +++ b/35434-h/35434-h.html @@ -0,0 +1,10904 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?> +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en" xml:lang="en"><head><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8" /><meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /><link rel="schema.DC" href="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" /><meta name="DC.Creator" content="Clinton Thomas Dent" /><meta name="DC.Title" content="Above the Snow Line" /><meta name="DC.Date" content="March 1, 2011" /><meta name="DC.Language" content="English" /><meta name="DC.Publisher" content="Project Gutenberg" /><meta name="DC.Identifier" content="http://www.gutenberg.org/etext/35434" /><meta name="DC.Rights" content="This text is in the public domain." /><title>The Project Gutenberg EBook of Above the Snow Line by Clinton Thomas Dent</title><style type="text/css">/* +The Gnutenberg Press - default CSS2 stylesheet + +Any generated element will have a class "tei" and a class "tei-elem" +where elem is the element name in TEI. +The order of statements is important !!! 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You may copy it, + give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project + Gutenberg License <a href="#pglicense" class="tei tei-ref">included with this + eBook</a> or online at <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/license" class="tei tei-xref">http://www.gutenberg.org/license</a></p></div><pre class="pre tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 3.00em; margin-top: 3.00em">Title: Above the Snow Line + +Author: Clinton Thomas Dent + +Release Date: March 1, 2011 [Ebook #35434] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ABOVE THE SNOW LINE*** +</pre></div> + </div> + <div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + + </div> + <div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + + <hr class="page" /><p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="Cover image" /></div> +<div class="tei tei-pb"></div> + +<hr class="page" /><p class="tei tei-p" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.20em"><span style="font-size: 120%">ABOVE THE SNOW LINE</span></p> + +<div class="tei tei-pb"></div> + +<hr class="page" /><p class="tei tei-p" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 0.75em"><span style="font-size: 75%">LONDON: PRINTED BY</span><br /><span style="font-size: 75%"> +SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE</span><br /><span style="font-size: 75%"> +AND PARLIAMENT STREET</span></p> + +<div class="tei tei-pb"></div><a name="Pgi" id="Pgi" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + +<div class="tei tei-pb"></div><a name="Pgii" id="Pgii" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <hr class="page" /><p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/illo_005.jpg" alt="The Bietschhorn. From the Petersgrad" title="THE BIETSCHHORN. FROM THE PETERSGRAT" /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">THE BIETSCHHORN. FROM THE PETERSGRAT</div></div> + +</div><hr class="page" /><div class="tei tei-titlePage" style="text-align: center"> +<div class="tei tei-pb" style="text-align: center"></div><a name="Pgiii" id="Pgiii" class="tei tei-anchor" style="text-align: center"></a> + +<span class="tei tei-docTitle" style="text-align: center"> + <span class="tei tei-titlePart" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 173%">ABOVE THE SNOW LINE</span></span> + <br /><br /> + <span class="tei tei-titlePart" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 120%">MOUNTAINEERING SKETCHES</span><br /><span style="font-size: 120%"> + BETWEEN 1870 AND 1880</span></span> +</span> + <br /><br /> + <div class="tei tei-byline" style="text-align: center"> + BY<br /> + <span class="tei tei-docAuthor" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 120%">CLINTON DENT</span></span> + <br /> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 75%">VICE-PRESIDENT OF THE ALPINE CLUB</span></span> + </div> + <br /> + <div class="tei tei-epigraph" style="text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 9.00em"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="text-align: right; margin-bottom: 0.90em"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: right"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: right"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-style: italic">Celui qui n’a jamais ses heures</span><br /><span style="font-size: 90%; font-style: italic">de + folie est moins sage qu’il ne + le</span><br /><span style="font-size: 90%; font-style: italic">pense</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">—</span><span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: right"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">La Bruyère</span></span></p> + </div> + <br /> + <span class="tei tei-titlePart" style="text-align: center"><span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 75%">WITH TWO ENGRAVINGS BY EDWARD WHYMPER AND</span><br /><span style="font-size: 75%"> + AN ILLUSTRATION BY PERCY MACQUOID</span></span></span> + <br /><br /><br /> + <span class="tei tei-docImprint" style="text-align: center"> + <span class="tei tei-pubPlace" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 120%">LONDON</span></span><br /> + <span class="tei tei-publisher" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 120%">LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO.</span></span><br /> + <span class="tei tei-date" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 120%">1885</span></span> + </span> +<br /><br /> + <span class="tei tei-titlePart" style="text-align: center"><span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-style: italic">All rights reserved</span></span></span> +</div><div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> +<div class="tei tei-pb"></div><a name="Pgiv" id="Pgiv" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + +<div class="tei tei-pb"></div><a name="Pgv" id="Pgv" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + +<hr class="page" /><p class="tei tei-p" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em"> + THESE SKETCHES OF MOUNTAINEERING<br /> + I DEDICATE TO<br /> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 120%">T. I. D.</span></span><br /> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 75%">IN THE HOPE THAT A BOOK WITHOUT A HEROINE</span><br /><span style="font-size: 75%"> + MAY, AT LEAST, ACQUIRE SOME FEMININE INTEREST</span></span> +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-pb"></div><a name="Pgvi" id="Pgvi" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> +</div><hr class="page" /><div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> +<div class="tei tei-pb"></div><a name="Pgvii" id="Pgvii" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> +<a name="toc1" id="toc1"></a><a name="pdf2" id="pdf2"></a> +<h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"><span style="font-size: 173%">PREFACE</span></h1> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Some of the following sketches do not now appear for +the first time; but such as have been before published +in other form have been entirely re-written, +and, in great measure, recast. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-tb"> </div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +To the writer the work has afforded an occasional +distraction from more serious professional work, and +he cannot wish better than that it should serve the +same purpose to the reader. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-dateline" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-name" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">Cortina di Ampezzo</span></span></span>:<br /> +<span class="tei tei-date" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: left"><span style="font-style: italic">September 1884</span></span></span>.</div> + +<div class="tei tei-pb"></div><a name="Pgviii" id="Pgviii" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> +</div><hr class="page" /><div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> +<div class="tei tei-pb"></div><a name="Pgix" id="Pgix" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> +<a name="toc3" id="toc3"></a><a name="pdf4" id="pdf4"></a> +<h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"><span style="font-size: 173%">CONTENTS</span></h1> + + <table summary="This is a table" cellspacing="0" class="tei tei-table" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><colgroup span="2"></colgroup><tbody><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center">CHAPTER I.</td> + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center"><span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 75%">AN EXPEDITION IN THE OLDEN STYLE</span></span></td> + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: right"><span style="font-size: 75%">PAGE</span></span></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell">Buried records—<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Litera scripta manet</span></span>—The survival of the unfit—A +literary octopus—Sybaritic mountaineering—On mountain +<span class="tei tei-q">“form”</span>—Lessons to be learned in the Alps—The growth +and spread of the climbing craze—Variations of the art—A +tropical day in the valley—A deserted hostelry—The hotel +staff appears in several characters—Ascent of the Balfrinhorn—Our +baggage train and transport department—A well-ventilated +shelter—On sleeping out: its advantages on the +present occasion—The Mischabelhörner family group—A +plea for Saas and the Fée plateau—We attack the Südlenzspitz—The +art of detecting hidden crevasses—Plans for the +future—Sentiment on a summit—The feast is spread—The +Alphubeljoch—We meet our warmest welcome at an inn</td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a name="corrix" id="corrix" class="tei tei-anchor" style="text-align: right"></a><span class="tei tei-corr" style="text-align: right"><a href="#Pg001" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: right">1</a></span></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center">CHAPTER II.</td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center"><span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 75%">THE ROTHHORN (MOMING) FROM ZERMATT</span></span></td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell">The Alpine dramatis personæ—Mountaineering fact and romance—The +thirst for novelty and its symptoms—The first ascent +of the Moming—Preliminaries are observed—Rock <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">v.</span></span> snow +mountains—The amateur and the guide on rocks and on +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="pagex">[pg x]</span><a name="Pgx" id="Pgx" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>snow—The programme is made out—Franz Andermatten—Falling +stones in the gully—We smooth away the difficulties—The +psychological effects of reaching mountain summits—A +rock bombardment and a narrow escape—The youthful +tourist and his baggage—Hotel trials—We are interviewed—The +gushers</td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href="#Pg031" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: right">31</a></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center">CHAPTER III.</td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center"><span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 75%">EARLY ATTEMPTS ON THE AIGUILLE DU DRU</span></span></td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell">The Alps and the early mountaineers—The last peaks to surrender—The +Aiguille du Dru—Messrs. Kennedy and Pendlebury’s +attempt on the peak—One-day expeditions in the Alps +and thoughts on huts and sleeping out—The Chamouni +guide system—A word on guides, past and present—The +somnolent landlord and his peculiarities—Some of the party +see a chamois—Doubts as to the peak and the way—The +duplicity of the Aiguille deceives us—Telescopic observations—An +ill-arranged glacier—Franz and his mighty axe—A +start on the rocks in the wrong direction—Progress reported—An +adjournment—The rocks of the lower peak of the +Aiguille du Dru—Our first failure—The expedition resumed—A +new line of ascent—We reach the sticking point—Beaten +back—The results gained by the two days’ climbing</td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href="#Pg056" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: right">56</a></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center">CHAPTER IV.</td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center"><span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 75%">A DAY ACROSS COUNTRY</span></span></td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell">The art of meteorological vaticination—The climate we leave +our homes for—Observations in the valley—The diligence +arrives and shoots its load—Types of travellers—The Alpine +habitué—The elderly spinster on tour—A stern Briton—A +family party—We seek fresh snow-fields—The Bietschhorn—A +sepulchral bivouac—On early starts and their curious +effects on the temperament—A choice of routes—A deceptive +ice gully—The avalanches on the Bietschhorn—We work up +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="pagexi">[pg xi]</span><a name="Pgxi" id="Pgxi" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>to a dramatic situation—The united party nearly fall out—A +limited panorama—A race for home—Caught out—A short +cut—Driven to extremities—The water jump—An aged person +comes to the rescue—A classical banquet at Ried—The +old curé and his hospitality—A wasted life?</td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href="#Pg096" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: right">96</a></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center">CHAPTER V.</td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center"><span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 75%">AN OLD FRIEND WITH A NEW FACE</span></span></td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell">Chamouni again—The hotel <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">clientèle</span></span>—A youthful hero—The inevitable +English family—A scientific gentleman—A dream +of the future—The hereafter of the Alps and of Alpine +literature—A condensed mountain ascent—Wanted, a programme—A +double <span class="tei tei-q">“Brocken”</span>—A hill-side phenomenon and +a familiar character—A strong argument—Halting doubts +and fears—A digression on mountaineering accidents—<span class="tei tei-q">“From +gay to grave, from lively to severe”</span>—The storm +breaks—A battle with the elements—Beating the air—The +ridge carried by assault—What next, and next?—A topographical +problem and a cool proposal—The descent down +the Vallée Blanche—The old Montanvert hotel—The Montanvert +path and its frequenters</td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href="#Pg130" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: right">130</a></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center">CHAPTER VI.</td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center"><span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 75%">ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE DU DRU</span></span></td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: center">“<span class="tei tei-foreign" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-style: italic">Decies repetita placebit</span></span>”</span></td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell">Disadvantages of narratives of personal adventure—Expeditions +on the Aiguille du Dru in 1874—The ridge between the +Aiguilles du Dru and Verte—<span class="tei tei-q">“Défendu de passer par là”</span>—Distance +lends enchantment—Other climbers attack the +peak—View of the mountain from the Col de Balme—We +try the northern side, and fail more signally than usual—Showing +that mountain fever is of the recurrent type—We +take seats below, but have no opportunity of going up +higher<span class="tei tei-pb" id="pagexii">[pg xii]</span><a name="Pgxii" id="Pgxii" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>—The campaign opens—We go under canvas—A spasmodic +start, and another failure—A change of tactics and a new +leader—Our sixteenth attempt—Sports and pastimes at +Chamouni—The art of cray-fishing—The apparel oft proclaims +the man—A canine acquaintance—A new ally—The +turning-point of the expedition—A rehearsal for the final +performance—A difficult descent—A blank in the narrative—A +carriage misadventure—A penultimate failure—We start +with two guides and finish with one—The rocks of the Dru—Maurer +joins the party—Our nineteenth attempt—A +narrow escape in the gully—The arête at last—The final +scramble—Our foe is vanquished and decorated—The return +journey—Benighted—A moonlight descent—We are graciously +received—On <span class="tei tei-q">“fair”</span> mountaineering—The prestige +of new peaks—Chamouni becomes festive—<span class="tei tei-q">“Heut’ Abend +grosses Feuerwerkfest”</span>—Chamouni dances and shows hospitality—The +scene closes in </td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href="#Pg169" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: right">169</a></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center">CHAPTER VII.</td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center"><span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 75%">BYE-DAYS IN ALPINE MIDLANDS</span></span></td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center">1. <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-style: italic">A Pardonable Digression.</span></span></td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell">On well-ordered intellects—The drawbacks of accurate memory—Sub-Alpine +walks: their admirers and their recommendations—The +<span class="tei tei-q">“High-Level Route”</span>—The Ruinette—An infallible +prescription for ill-humour—A climb and a meditation +on grass slopes—The agile person’s acrobatic feats—The +psychological effects of sunrise—The ascent of the +Ruinette—We return to our mutton at Arolla—A vision on +the hill-side.</td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center">2. <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-style: italic">A Little Maiden.</span></span></td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell">Saas in the olden days—A neglected valley—The mountains +drained dry—A curious omission—The Portienhorn, and its +good points as a mountain—The chef produces a masterpiece—An +undesirable tenement to be let unfurnished—An +evicted family—A rapid act of mountaineering—On the +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="pagexiii">[pg xiii]</span><a name="Pgxiii" id="Pgxiii" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>pleasures of little climbs—The various methods of making +new expeditions on one mountain—On the mountaineer who +has nothing to learn, and his consequent ignorance </td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href="#Pg236" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: right">236</a></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center">CHAPTER VIII.</td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center"><span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 75%">A SENTIMENTAL ALPINE JOURNEY</span></span></td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell">Long <span class="tei tei-q">“waits”</span> and entr’actes—The Mont Buet as an unknown +mountain—We hire carriages—A digression on a stationary +vehicle—A straggling start—The incomplete moralist—The +niece to the moralist—A discourse on gourmets—An artistic +interlude—We become thoughtful, and reach the height of +sentiment and the top of the Mont Buet—Some other members +of the party—The mountaineers perform—How glissading +ambition did o’erleap itself—A vision on the summit—The +moralist leaves us for a while—Entertainment at the Bérard +Chalet—View of the Aiguille Verte—The end of the journey</td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href="#Pg266" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: right">266</a></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center">CHAPTER IX.</td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center"><span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 75%">A FRAGMENT</span></span></td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell">An unauthentic MS.—Solitude on the mountain: its advantages +to the historian of the Alps—A rope walk—The crossing of +the Schrund—A novel form of avalanche and an airy situation—A +towering obstacle—The issue of the expedition in +the balance—A very narrow escape—The final rush—Victory!—The +perils of the descent—I plunge <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">in medias res</span></span>—A +flying descent</td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a name="corrxiv" id="corrxiv" class="tei tei-anchor" style="text-align: right"></a><span class="tei tei-corr" style="text-align: right"><a href="#Pg291" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: right">291</a></span></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center">CHAPTER X.</td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center"><span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 75%">THE FUTURE OF MOUNTAINEERING</span></span></td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell">Mountaineers and their critics—The early days of the Alpine +Club—The founders of mountaineering—The growth of the + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="pagexiv">[pg xiv]</span><a name="Pgxiv" id="Pgxiv" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>amusement—Novelty and exploration—The formation of +centres—Narrowing of the field of mountaineering—The upward +limit of mountaineering—De Saussure’s experience—Modern +development of climbing—Mr. Whymper’s experience—Mr. +Graham’s experience—The ascent of great heights—Mr. +Grove’s views—Messrs. Coxwell and Glaisher’s balloon +experiences—Reasons for dissenting from Mr. Glaisher’s +views—The possibility of ascending Mount Everest—Physiological +aspect of the question—Acclimatisation to great +heights—The direction in which mountaineering should be +developed—The results that may be obtained—Chamouni a +century hence—A Rip van Winkle in the Pennine Alps—The +dangers of mountaineering—Conclusion</td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href="#Pg300" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: right">300</a></td> + </tr></tbody></table> + <div class="tei tei-tb"><hr style="width: 15%" /></div> + <table summary="This is a table" cellspacing="0" class="tei tei-table" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><colgroup span="2"></colgroup><tbody><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td colspan="2" class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center"><span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 120%">ILLUSTRATIONS</span></span></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">The Bietschhorn from the Petersgrat</span></span></td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: right"><a href="#Pgii" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: right"><span style="font-style: italic">Frontispiece</span></a></span></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">The Aiguille du Dru from the South</span></span></td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href="#fig169" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: right"><span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: right"><span style="font-style: italic">to face page</span></span> 169</a></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">A Vision on a Summit</span></span></td> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href="#fig282" class="tei tei-ref" style="text-align: right">" 282</a></td> + </tr></tbody></table> + + </div> +</div> +<hr class="page" /><div class="tei tei-body" style="margin-bottom: 6.00em; margin-top: 6.00em"> +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page1">[pg 1]</span><a name="Pg001" id="Pg001" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> +<p class="tei tei-p" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 173%">ABOVE THE SNOW LINE</span></span></p> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> +<a name="toc5" id="toc5"></a> +<a name="pdf6" id="pdf6"></a> +<h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"><span style="font-size: 173%">CHAPTER I.</span></h1> + +<h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"><span style="font-size: 144%">AN EXPEDITION IN THE OLDEN STYLE</span></h1> + +<div class="tei tei-argument" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em"><p class="tei tei-p" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 0.90em"><span style="font-size: 90%"> +Buried records—</span><span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-style: italic">Litera scripta manet</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">—The survival of the unfit—A +literary octopus—Sybaritic mountaineering—On mountain +</span><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">form</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">—Lessons to be learned in the Alps—The growth and +spread of the climbing craze—Variations of the art—A tropical +day in the valley—A deserted hostelry—The hotel staff appears +in several characters—Ascent of the Balfrinhorn—Our baggage +train and transport department—A well-ventilated shelter—On +sleeping out: its advantages on the present occasion—The Mischabelhörner +family group—A plea for Saas and the Fée plateau—We +attack the Südlenzspitz—The art of detecting hidden +crevasses—Plans for the future—Sentiment on a summit—The +feast is spread—The Alphubeljoch—We meet our warmest +welcome at an inn. +</span></p></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +There exists a class of generously-minded folk who +display a desire to improve their fellow-creatures +and a love for their species, by referring pointedly to +others for the purpose of mentioning that the objects +of their remarks have never been guilty of certain +enormities: a critical process, which is about equivalent +to tarring an individual, but, from humanitarian +considerations, omitting to feather him also. The +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page2">[pg 2]</span><a name="Pg002" id="Pg002" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>ordeal, as applied to others, is unwarrantable; but +there is a certain odd pleasure in subjecting oneself +to it. Now, it is but a paraphrase to say that the +more we go about, the more, in all probability, shall +we be strengthened in the conviction that the paradise +of fools must have a large acreage. The average +Briton has a constantly present dread that he is likely +to do something to justify his admission into that +department of Elysium. The thought that he has +so qualified, will wake him up if it crosses his mind +even in a dream, or make his blood run cold—whatever +that may mean—in his active state. Thus it +falls out that he is for ever, as it were, conning over +the pass-book of his actions, and marvelling how +few entries he can find on the credit side, as he +does so. It is asserted as a fact (and it were hard +to gainsay the sentiment), that <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Litera scripta manet</span></span>. +No doubt; but how much more obtrusively true is it +that printed matter is as indestructible as the Hydra? +It has occurred sometimes to the writer, on very, +very sleepless nights, to take down from a shelf, to +slap the cover in order to get rid of a considerable +amount of dust, and to peruse, in a volume well-known +to all members of the Alpine Club, accounts written +years before, of early mountain expeditions. To trace +in some such way, at any rate to search for, indications +of a fancied development of mind has a curious +fascination for the solitary man. Effusions which an +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page3">[pg 3]</span><a name="Pg003" id="Pg003" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>author would jealously hide away from the eyes of his +friends, have a strangely absorbing interest to the +man who reflects that he himself was their perpetrator. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The survival of the unfit</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +We most of us, whatever principles we assert on the +matter, keep stowed away, in some corner or another, +the overflow of a fancied talent. The form varies: +it may, perhaps, be a five act tragedy, possibly a +psychological disquisition, or a sensational novel in +three volumes of MS. It is a satisfaction to turn +such treasures out from time to time when no eyes +are upon us, even if it be only to thank Heaven +devoutly that they have always lain unknown and +uncriticised. <span class="tei tei-q">“Il n’y a rien qui rafraichisse le sang +comme d’avoir su éviter de faire une sottise.”</span> Of +work done, of which the author had no especial +reason to be proud, a feeling of thankfulness in a +lesser degree may arise from the consciousness that, +if ever recognised at all, it is now, happily, forgotten. +So have these early effusions sometimes amused, +not infrequently astounded, and at the worst have +nearly always brought the wished-for slumber; and +yet in Alpine writings the same accounts were for +the most part as faithful representations as the writer +could set down on paper of impressions made at +the time. It has often occurred to me to ask what +manner of description a writer would give of an +expedition made many years before. How would the +lapse of time influence him? Would he make light +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page4">[pg 4]</span><a name="Pg004" id="Pg004" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>of whatever danger there was? Would the picture +require a very decided coat of varnish to make it at +all recognisable? Would the crudities come out still +more strongly, or would the colours all have faded +and sunk harmoniously together in his picture? The +speculation promised to be interesting enough to +make it worth while to give practical effect to the +idea. Now the expedition narrated in this chapter +was made in 1870, and possibly, therefore, if a description +were worth giving at all, it had better have +been given fresh. We can always find some proverb +tending more or less to justify any course of action +that we may be desirous of pursuing, and by distorting +the meaning of a quotation manage to serve our own +ends. Of all the ill-used remarks of this nature, surely +the most often employed is, <span class="tei tei-q">“Better late than never;”</span> +the extreme elasticity of which saying, in the application +thereof, is well evidenced by the doctor who +employed it in justification of his late arrival when he +came on a professional visit to the lady and found the +baby learning its alphabet. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Sybaritic mountaineering</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +When an aquarium was a fashionable resort, +amongst a good many queer and loose fish, we became +familiar with a monstrously ill-favoured beast +called a cuttle-fish: and may have had a chance of +seeing how the animal, if attacked by his physical +superior, resorted to the ingenious plan of effusing +a quantity of ink, and, under cover of this, retreating +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page5">[pg 5]</span><a name="Pg005" id="Pg005" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>hastily backwards out of harm’s way. There are +some, less ingenuous than the Octopus, who retreat +first into obscurity and then pour out their effusion of +ink. But it is more common to use the flare of an +epigram or of a proverb, as a conjurer does his wand, +to distract attention for the moment and divert the +thought current from matters we do not wish to be +too evident. At any rate, I must in the present instance +lay under tribute the author of Proverbs, and +add another straw to the already portentous burden +that they who wish to compound for literary sins have +already piled on his back. Apologising is, however, a +dangerous vice, as a well-known writer has remarked. +The account, though a sort of literary congenital +cripple, has still a prescriptive right to live. Besides +this expedition was undertaken in the pre-Sybaritic age +of mountaineering, and before the later refinements of +that art and science had taken firm hold of its +votaries. What would the stern explorers of former +time have thought, or said, if they had perceived +persons engaged on the glaciers sitting down on camp-stools +to a light refection of truffle pie and cold punch? +Such banquets are not uncommon now, though precisians +with a tendency to dyspepsia still object +strongly to them. In those days, too, mountaineers +were not so much differentiated that climbers were +talked of by their fellows like cricketers are described +in the book of Lillywhite. <span class="tei tei-q">“Jones,”</span> for instance, <span class="tei tei-q">“is a +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page6">[pg 6]</span><a name="Pg006" id="Pg006" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>brilliant cragsman, but inclined to be careless on +moraines.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Noakes,”</span> again, <span class="tei tei-q">“remarkably sure and steady +on snow, fairly good in a couloir, would do better if he +did not possess such an astounding appetite and would +pay more attention to the use of the rope.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Stokes +possesses remarkable knowledge of the Alps; on rocks +climbs with his head; we wish we could say honestly +that he can climb at all with his hands and feet.”</span> +<span class="tei tei-q">“Thompson, first-rate step-cutter; walks on snow with +the graceful gait and unlaboured action of a shrimp-catcher +at his work: kicks down every loose stone he +touches.”</span> Thus different styles of climbing are recognised. +<span class="tei tei-q">“Form,”</span> as it is called in climbing, was in the +old days an unknown term, and yet it is probable that +the <span class="tei tei-q">“form”</span> was by no means inferior to any that can +be shown now-a-days. The reason is obvious enough +and the explanation lies simply in the fact that the +apprenticeship served in the mountains was then +much longer than it is now. People did not so often +try to ride a steeple-chase before they had learnt to +sit in a saddle, or appreciated that the near side was +the best by which to get up. When this particular +expedition was made (towards which I feel that I am +an unconscionable time in making a start) I had been +five or six seasons in the Alps, during the first two of +which I had never set foot on a snow-slope. There +had always seemed to me from the first, to be so much +absolutely to learn in mountaineering: there is no +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page7">[pg 7]</span><a name="Pg007" id="Pg007" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>less now, indeed there is more, for the science has +been developed, but it seems beyond doubt, that fewer +people recognise the fact. Like most other arts, it +can only be learnt in one way, by constant practice, by +constant care and attention and by always doing everything +in the mountains to the best of one’s ability. +Too many may seem to think that there is a royal +road, and fail to recognise that a plebeian does not alter +his status by walking along this variety of highway. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The growth of the climbing craze</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Time rolled on. The fascination of climbing +spread abroad, and it followed with the increasing +number of mountaineers that more and more difficulties +were experienced in attempts to diversify the +sport in the Alps alone, and in emerging from the +common herd of climbers. Then a new danger arose. +The sport grew fashionable—a serious symptom to +its true lovers. Books of Alpine adventure readily +found readers; novels, and other forms of nonsense, +were written about the mountains; accounts of new +expeditions were telegraphed at once to all parts of +the world, and found as important a place in the +newspapers as the Derby betting, or the latest reports +as to the precise medical details of some eminent person’s +internal complaint. Still further did the craving +for novelty spread, and more strange did the means of +satisfying it become. The mountains were ascended +without guides: in winter; by people afflicted with +mental aberration who wore tall hats and frock coats +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page8">[pg 8]</span><a name="Pg008" id="Pg008" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>on the glaciers; by persons who were ignorant of the +laws of optics as applied to large telescopes; in bad +weather, by wrong routes and so forth. Then, too, +set in what may be called the variation craze. This +is very infectious. For those who can see no beauty in +a scene that some one else has gazed on before it is +still a passion. We may still at times, in the Alps, +hear people say, <span class="tei tei-q">“Oh yes, that is a very fine expedition, +no doubt, but I don’t think I care much about +undertaking it; you see so and so has done it; +couldn’t we manage to strike out a different line?”</span> +The result is a <span class="tei tei-q">“variation”</span> expedition. The composer +when hard driven, and not strongly under the influence +of the Muse, will at times take some innocent, +simple melody and submit it to exquisite torture by +writing what he is pleased to call variations. Sometimes +he will not rest till he has perpetrated as many +as thirty-two on some innocent little tune of our +childhood. The original air becomes entirely lost, +like a sixpence buried in a flour bag, and we may +marvel, for instance, as may the travelled American, +at the immense amount of foreign matter that may be +introduced into <span class="tei tei-q">“Home, sweet home.”</span> Even so does +the climber sometimes practise his art. But for one +who entertains a strict respect for the old order of +things, and for the memory of an age of mountaineering +now rapidly passing into oblivion, to write in any +such strain would be intolerable. And so, even as a +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page9">[pg 9]</span><a name="Pg009" id="Pg009" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>theatrical manager when his brilliant play, stolen, or, +as it is generally described, <span class="tei tei-q">“adapted,”</span> from the French, +does not run, I may be allowed to raise the curtain on +a revival of the old drama, a comedy in one short +act, and not provided with any very thrilling <span class="tei tei-q">“situations.”</span> +The <span class="tei tei-q">“scenarium”</span> lay ready to hand in the +leaves of an old journal, which may possibly share, +with other old leaves, the property of being rather +dry. But we are meandering, as it were, in the +valleys, and run some risk of digressing too far from +the path which should lead to the mountain in hand. +There is a story of a clergyman who selected a rather +long text as a preface to his discourse, and finding, +when he had read it at length a second time, that his +congregation were mostly disposed in attitudes which +might be of attention, but which were, at the same +time, suggestive of slumber, wisely concluded to defer +enlarging upon it till a more fitting occasion, and dismissed +his hearers, or at any rate those present, with +the remark that they had heard his text and that he +would not presume to mar its effectiveness by any +exordium upon it. <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Revenons.</span></span> +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A tropical day in the valley</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +In the early part of August 1870, our party walked +one sultry day up the Saas Valley. The dust glittered +thick and yellow on our boots. Many of the smaller +brooks had struck work altogether, while the main +river was reduced to a clear stream trickling lazily +down between sloping banks of rounded white boulders +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page10">[pg 10]</span><a name="Pg010" id="Pg010" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>that shone with a painful glare in the strong sunlight. +The more muscular of the grasshoppers found their +limbs so lissom in the warmth that they achieved the +most prodigious leaps out of sheer lightheartedness; +for they sprang so far that they could have had no +definite idea where they might chance to light. On +the stone walls busy little lizards, with heaving flanks, +scurried about with little fitful spurts, and vanished +abruptly into the crannies, perpetually playing hide +and seek with each other, and always seeming out of +breath. The foliage drooped motionless in the heavy +air and the shadows it cast lengthened along the dusty +ground as steadily as the streak on a sundial. The +smoke from the guides’ pipes (and guides, like itinerant +nigger minstrels, always have pipes in their mouths +when moving from the scene of one performance to +another) hung in mid air, and the vile choking smell +of the sputtering lucifer matches was perceptible when +the laggards reached the spot where a man a hundred +yards ahead had lighted one of these abominations. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +To pass under the shade of a walnut tree was refreshing +like a cold douche; and to step forth again +into the heat and glare made one almost gasp. +Flannel shirts were miserably inadequate to the strain +put upon their absorbent qualities. The potatoes and +cabbages were white and piteously dusty. Even the +pumpkins seemed to be trying to bury their plump +forms in the cool recesses of the earth. Everywhere +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page11">[pg 11]</span><a name="Pg011" id="Pg011" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>there seemed a consciousness as of a heavy droning +hum. All of which may be concisely summed up in +the now classical opening remark of a well-known +comedy character, one <span class="tei tei-q">“Perkyn Middlewick”</span> to wit, +<span class="tei tei-q">“It’s ’ot.”</span> +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A deserted hostelry</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +When within a little distance of the hotel I enquired +whether it was worth while for one of the +party to push on to secure rooms. The guides thought, +on the whole, that it was unnecessary, and this opinion +was justified subsequently by the fact that we found +ourselves the sole occupants of the hotel during the +week or so that we remained in the district. It was +the year of the war; ugly rumours were about, but +very few tourists. Selecting, therefore, the most +luxurious apartment, and having given over to the care +of one Franz, who appeared in the character of <span class="tei tei-q">“boots”</span> +to the hotel, a remarkable pair of cowhide brogues of +original design, as hard as sabots and much more uncomfortable, +I sat down on a stone slab, in order to +cool down to a temperature that might permit of dining +without fear of imperilling digestion. So pleased were +the hotel authorities at the presence of a traveller that +they exerted themselves to the utmost to entertain +us well, and with remarkable results. I find a record +of the dinner served. There were ten dishes in consecutive +order, exclusive of what Americans term <span class="tei tei-q">“fixings.”</span> +As to the nature of nine it was difficult to speak with +any degree of certainty, but the tenth was apparently +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page12">[pg 12]</span><a name="Pg012" id="Pg012" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>a blackbird that had perished of starvation and whose +attenuated form the chef had bulged out with extraneous +matter. Franz, who seemed to be a sort of +general utility man to the establishment, had thrown +off, with the ease of a Gomersal or a Ducrow, the outward +habiliments of a boots and appeared now as a +waiter, in a shirt so hard and starched that he was +unable to bend and could only button his waistcoat by +the sense of touch. The repast over, Franz removed +the shirt front and unbent thereupon in manner as in +person. Assuming engaging airs, he entered into +conversation, disappearing however for short intervals +at times, in order, as might be inferred from certain +sounds proceeding from an adjoining apartment, to +discharge the duties of a chamber-maid. Subsequently +it transpired that he was the proprietor of the hotel. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The hut above Fée</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +We agreed to commence our mountaineering by an +ascent of the Balfrinhorn, a most charming walk +and one which even in those days was considered a +gentle climb. There are few peaks about this district +which will better repay the climber of moderately high +ambition, and it is possible to complete the expedition +without retracing the steps. There is no danger, and +it is hard to say to what part of the mountain an +enthusiast would have to go in order to discover any: +so the expedition, though perhaps prosaic, is still very +interesting throughout and quite in the olden style. +The solitude at the hotel was somewhat dull, and the +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page13">[pg 13]</span><a name="Pg013" id="Pg013" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>conversational powers of the guides soon exhausted if +we travelled beyond the subject of chamois hunting, I +did indeed try on one occasion to explain to them, in +answer to an earnest request, the military system of +Great Britain. But, with a limited vocabulary, the +task was not easy and, as I could not think of any +words to express what was meant by red tape, circumlocution, +and short service, my exposition was limited +to enlarging on the facts that the warriors of my +native country were exceeding valiant folk with very +fine chests, that they wore highly padded red coats +and little hats like half bonbon boxes cocked on one +side and that they would never consent to be slaves. +Burgener, anxious for some more stirring expedition, +suggested that we should climb the Dom from the +Saas side or make a first ascent of the Südlenzspitz. +We had often talked of the former expedition, which +had not at the time been achieved, and, in order to +facilitate its accomplishment, divers small grants of +money had been sent out from England to be expended +in the construction of a hut some five hours’ walk +above Fée. In answer to enquiries, the guides reported +with no small amount of pride, that the building +had been satisfactorily completed and they were +of opinion that it was ready for occupation. At some +length the process of building was described and it +really seemed from their account that they had caused +to be erected a shelter of unduly pretentious +dimen<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page14">[pg 14]</span><a name="Pg014" id="Pg014" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>sions. It appeared, however, that the residence was +equally well placed to serve as a shelter for an ascent +of the Südlenzspitz and we decided ultimately to +attack that peak first. Great preparations were +made; an extensive assortment of very inferior +blankets was produced and spread out in the road in +front of the hotel, either for airing or some other ill-defined +purpose, possibly from some natural pride in +the extensive resources of the hotel. Then they pulled +down and piled into a little stack, opposite the front +door, fire wood enough to roast an ox, or convert an +enthusiast into a saint. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">How ruin seized a roofless thing</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +One fine afternoon we started. The entire staff and +<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">personnel</span></span> of the hotel would have turned out to wish +us good luck, but did not actually do so, as he was +engaged in a back shed milking a cow. Laden with a +large bundle of fire wood, I toiled up the steep grass +slopes above Fée, leading to the Hochbalm glacier. +The day was oppressively hot, and I was not wholly +ungrateful on finding that the string round my bundle +was loose and that the sticks dropped out one after +another: accordingly I selected a place in the extreme +rear of the caravan, lest my delinquencies should perchance +be observed. The sun beat mercilessly down +upon our backs on these bare slopes and we sighed +involuntarily for Vallombrosa or Monaco or some +equally shady place. The guides, who up to that time +had spoken of their building as if it were of somewhat +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page15">[pg 15]</span><a name="Pg015" id="Pg015" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>palatial dimensions, now began rather to disparage +the construction. Doubts were expressed as to the +effects certain storms and heavy falls of snow might +have had on it and regrets that the weather had +prevented the builders from attending as minutely to +details of finish and decoration as they could have +wished. Putting this and that together, I came to +the conclusion that the erection would probably be +found to display but indifferent architectural merit. +However, there was nothing better to look forward to. +<span class="tei tei-q">“Where is it?”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Oh, right up there, under the big +cliff, close to where Alexander is.”</span> In the dim distance +could be distinguished the form of our guide as +a little dark mass progressing on two pink flesh-coloured +streaks, striding rapidly up the hill. The +phenomenon of colour was due to the fact that, +prompted by the sultriness of the day, Alexander had +adopted in his garb a temporary variation of the +Highland costume. A few minutes later he joined us, +clothed indeed, and in a right, but still a melancholy +frame of mind. Shaking his head sadly, he explained +that a grievous disaster had taken place, evidently in +the spring. The forebodings of the constructively-minded +rustics we had left below, who knew about as +much of architecture as they did of metaphysics, +proved now to be true. They had remarked that they +feared lest some chance stone should have fallen, and +possibly have inflicted damage on the hut. Why they +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page16">[pg 16]</span><a name="Pg016" id="Pg016" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>had selected a site where such an accident might +happen, was not at the moment quite obvious, but it +became so later on. Burgener told us that the roof +had been carried away. Beyond question the roof +was gone; at any rate it was not there, and the rock +must have fallen in a remarkable way indeed, for the +cliff above was slightly overhanging, and the falling +boulder, which was held accountable for the disaster, +had carried away every vestige of wood-work about +the place, not leaving even a splinter or a chip. +However, to the credit of the builders, be it said that +they had tidied up and swept very nicely, for there +was no sawdust to be seen anywhere, nor indeed, any +trace of carpentering work. The hut consequently +resolved itself into a semi-circular stone wall, very +much out of the perpendicular, built against a rock +face. The chief architect, evidently a thoughtful +person, had not omitted to leave a door. But it was +easier on the whole to step over the wall, which I did, +with as much scorn as Remus himself could have +thrown into the action when seeking to aggravate his +brother Romulus. So we entered into possession of +the premises without, at any rate, the trouble of any +preliminary legal formalities. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">On sleeping out</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +In the matter of sleeping out, all mountaineers +pass, provided they keep long enough at it, through +three stages. In the early period, when imbued with +what has been poetically termed the <span class="tei tei-q">“ecstatic alacrity”</span> +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page17">[pg 17]</span><a name="Pg017" id="Pg017" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>of youth, they burn with a desire to undergo hardship +on mountains. Possibly a craving for sympathy +in discomfort—that most universal of human attributes—prompts +them to spend their nights in the +most unsuitable places for repose. The practical +carrying out of this tendency is apt to freeze very +literally their ardour; at least, it did so in our case. +Then follows a period during which the climber laughs +to scorn any idea of dividing his mountain expedition. +He starts the moment after midnight and plods along +with a gait as free and elastic as that of a stage +pilgrim or a competitor in a six days’ <span class="tei tei-q">“go-as-you-please”</span> +pedestrian contest: for those who have a certain +gift of somnambulism this method has its advantages. +Finally comes a stage when the climber’s one +thought is to get all the enjoyment possible out of his +expedition and to get it in the way that seems best +at the time. Now again he may be found at times +tenanting huts, or the forms of shelter which are +supposed to represent them. But his manner is +changed; he no longer travels burdened with the impedimenta +of his earlier days. He never looks at his +watch now, except to ascertain the utmost limit of +time he can dwell on a view. With advancing years +and increasing Alpine wisdom, he derides the idea of +accurately timing an expedition. His pedometer is +probably left at home; he eats whenever he is hungry, +and ceases to consider it a <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">sine quâ non</span></span> that he must +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page18">[pg 18]</span><a name="Pg018" id="Pg018" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>return to hotel quarters in time for dinner. Nor does +he ever commit the youthful folly of walking at the +rate of five miles an hour along the mule path in the +valley or the high road at the end of an expedition, +gaining thereby sore feet and absolutely nothing else. +When he has reached this stage, however, he is considered +<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">passé</span></span>; and when he has reached this stage +he probably begins really to appreciate to the full the +depth of the charm to be found in mountaineering. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +But I digress even as the driven pig. A miserable +night did we spend behind the stone wall. About +9 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span> came a furious hail-storm: at 10 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span> rain fell +heavily: at 11 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span> snow began and went on till daybreak +about 4 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> At 5 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> we got up quite stiff +and stark like a recently killed villain of melodrama, +when carried off the stage by four supers. By 6 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> +I had got into my boots. At 9 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> we swooped down +once more on Franz at the hotel at Saas, persuaded +him to relinquish certain scavenging occupations in +which he was engaged, and to resume his post of +waiter. A day or two later we sought our shelter +once more. No luxurious provisions did we take with +us. Some remarkable red wine, so sour that it forced +one involuntarily to turn the head round over the +shoulder on drinking it, filled one knapsack. The +other contained slices of bread with parallel strata of +a greasy nature intervening. These were spoken of, +when we had occasion to allude to them, as +sand<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page19">[pg 19]</span><a name="Pg019" id="Pg019" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>wiches. The fat was found to be an excellent +emollient to my boots. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The Südlenzspitz</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +The Südlenzspitz, though tall, labours under the +topographical disadvantage of being placed in the +company of giants. Close by, on the north side, is +the Nadelhorn (14,876 ft.), while to the south, at no +great distance, the Dom towers far above, reaching +a height of 14,942 feet. In the Federal map of +Switzerland (which is not very accurate in its delineation +of the Saas district), the height of the +Südlenzspitz is marked as 14,108 ft. North and south +from the Südlenzspitz, stretch away well-marked, +but not particularly sharp ridges, the northern being +chiefly of snow, and inclined at a moderate angle. +To the east, a sharper rocky ridge falls away, terminating +below, after the fashion of a <span class="tei tei-q">“rational”</span> +divided skirt, in two undecided continuations which +enclosed the Fall glacier. Climbing up by this ridge, +Mr. W. W. Graham ascended the mountain in 1882. +The <span class="tei tei-q">“variation”</span> is described as presenting very serious +difficulties. But in our day, the old-fashioned custom +of ascending mountains by the most obviously practicable +way was still in vogue, and we decided, therefore, +to make for the northern buttress. Leaping +over the wall enclosing the ground-floor of our bivouac, +we descended on to the Hochbalm glacier, made our +way across the upper snow basin, and in good time +reached the foot of the slope no great distance south +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page20">[pg 20]</span><a name="Pg020" id="Pg020" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>of the Nadelhorn. The view during this part of the +walk is very characteristic of the range. From almost +any point of view, the traveller is surrounded on three +sides by a clearly marked amphitheatre of very beautifully +formed mountains. On the right, the shapely +little Ulrichshorn rises up in a self-sufficient manner, +like a single artichoke in a vegetable dish. In front +is the mass of the Nadelhorn and Südlenzspitz, while, +looking back, the view of the mountains on the east +side of the Saas valley is one of great and varied +beauty. It must be confessed that these statements +are derived principally from a contemplation of the +map, for, to tell the truth, the recollection of the +panorama we actually saw is rather indistinct. This +much, however, I may record with confidence; that in +all parts of the Saas district, the views struck me, +in a day when I did not very much look at them, +as possessing strong individuality and the greatest +beauty. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A plea for Saas and Fée</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +The Zermatt district may be still more striking, +and they who have no time to visit both, no doubt do +wisely to seek the more hackneyed valley. But for +such as do not look upon guide-book statements as +the dicta of an autocrat, and can exercise a thousandth +part of the independence of judgment they manifest +in the ordinary affairs of life, a brief deviation to the +Saas country will come as a revelation. After the +crowd, dust, and bustle of the highway to the +re<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page21">[pg 21]</span><a name="Pg021" id="Pg021" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>cognised centre of the Alps, to turn aside to this +region is a relief, like stepping out of a crowded ball-room +on to a verandah, or gliding away in a gondola +from the railway station at Venice. Look, too, at +the architecture of the great mountains here, and the +spectator will perceive how nature has succeeded to +perfection in achieving what all artists fail in doing; +that is in designing, and in a manner that precludes +criticism, a pendant; and a pendant too to the Zermatt +panorama. The necessary object in the foreground +of the picture—which we all know to be an +hotel—is provided. Who but nature would think of +framing a pure white picture in a setting of the soft +green pastures below, and the deep blue sky above? +but here it is, and it is perfect. Yet the blue of the +sky is repeated in the picture, for the towering séracs +throw azure shadows on the satin-smooth snow slopes +at their feet. Rest, strength, eternal solidity above in +the mountain forms and crags; repose, softness, and +the charm of a brightness below that must yield and +fade before long to gather force for fresh development +and renewal. No need to seek far for a parallel in our +human world. Between the two districts, Zermatt and +Saas-Fée, there is but the difference between the man +who impresses at once by the force of character, and +the man who has to be studied and learned before we +recognise that he is something beyond the ordinary +run of our fellow-creatures. +</p> + +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page22">[pg 22]</span><a name="Pg022" id="Pg022" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">We attack the Südlenzspitz</span></div></div> +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Before leaving England we had made tolerably +minute inquiries, but had failed to discover any record +of a previous ascent of the Südlenzspitz, though, as +suggested by Mr. W. M. Conway, the mountain may +have been previously climbed by Mr. Chapman. Some +uncertainty, therefore, whether we should find any +traces of previous climbers, gave the required piquancy +to the expedition. We made at once up the slope +for a long rocky buttress, and towards a part of the +mountain down which the guides asserted stones had +been known to fall in the afternoon. This statement +was probably made with a view of encouraging their +charge to greater exertions, for an old sprained ankle +compelled me to the continual necessity of putting my +best foot foremost in walking over difficult places. +Still, the rocks were at no point very formidable, and +progress was rendered somewhat easier by the fact +that no critical companion was with me, so I felt at +perfect liberty to transport myself upwards in any +style that happened to suit the exigencies of the +moment. I had not at that time quite passed the +stage of believing all that the guides asserted with +reference to the climbing capacities of the individual +who pays them for assisting his locomotion, and had +a distinct idea that I mastered all the obstacles in a +particularly skilful manner. They said as much in +fact, but reiterated their compliments so often that I +somewhat fear now that I must frequently have given +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page23">[pg 23]</span><a name="Pg023" id="Pg023" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>occasion for these remarks of approbation; remarks +which I have since observed are more frequently called +forth to cover a blunder than to praise an exhibition of +science. Probably my progress was about as graceful +and sure as that of a weak-legged puppy placed for the +first time in its life on a frozen pond, or a cockroach +seeking to escape from the entrapping basin, for I had +not then developed, in climbing rocks, the adhesive +powers of—say the chest, which longer practice will +sometimes furnish. We were accompanied by a +porter of advanced years whose conversational powers +were limited by an odd practice of carrying heavy +parcels in his mouth. The day before he had carried +up a large beam of wood for the camp fire in this +manner. I never met a man with so much jaw and +so little talk. He had apparently come out in order +to practise himself for the mastication of the Saas +mutton, for at the end of the day he would accept of +nothing but a sum of two francs, for which I was very +thankful. Similar disinterestedness in men of his +class is not often met with nowadays. +</p> +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The art of probing snow</span></div></div> +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +After awhile we left the buttress of rock and turned +our attention to a snow slope and made our way up its +crest. Here steps were necessary but there was no +particular difficulty, for the slope resembled a modern +French drawing-room tragedy, in that it was as broad +as it was long. We had but to feel that the rope was +taut, and could then look about with security. In good +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page24">[pg 24]</span><a name="Pg024" id="Pg024" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>time we stepped on to the ridge, and a glance upwards +showed that the way was easy enough. We could not +but feel that if we were to achieve the honour of a +first ascent, such honour would be principally due to +the fact that we had subdivided the secondary peaks +of the chain more minutely than other travellers. +The principle has been carried still further in these +latter days, and as any little pale fish that can be +caught and fried is considered whitebait, and any +article that ladies choose to attach to their heads is +termed a bonnet, so any point that can be climbed by +an individual line of ascent is now held to be a separate +mountain. A considerable snow cornice hung +over on the northern side of the arête and great care +was necessary, for the ridge itself was so broad and +easy, that less careful guides might have made light +of it; but Burgener, though he had already acquired +a reputation for brilliancy and dash, never suffered +himself for one moment to lose sight of the two great +qualities in a guide, caution and thoroughness. At +each step he probed the snow in front of him with all +the diligence of a chiffonnier. It followed that our +progress was somewhat slow, but it was none the less +highly instructive. The accurate sense of touch in +probing doubtful snow with the axe requires and +deserves very much more practice than most people +would imagine. The unpractised mountaineer may +climb with more or less ease a difficult rock the first +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page25">[pg 25]</span><a name="Pg025" id="Pg025" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>time he is brought face to face with it, but long and +carefully acquired experience is necessary before a +man can estimate with certainty the bearing power +of a snow bridge with a single thrust of the axe. +Indeed many guides of reputation either do not possess +or never acquire the muscular sense necessary to +enable them to form a reliable opinion on this matter. +As a rule, if the rope be properly used and such a +mistake be made, somebody plunges through, is hauled +out again and no harm is done; but there are occasions +when serious accidents have happened, when probably +lives have been lost owing to want of skilled +knowledge in this detail of snow mountaineering. I +have known guides who never failed when they came +to a treacherous-looking bridge, to give it one apparently +careless thrust with the axe and then walk +across with perfect confidence; and I have seen +others do exactly the same and disappear suddenly +to cool regions below through the bridge; and <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">vice +versâ</span></span>. The unskilful prober will make wide detours +when he might go in safety, and the man of good +snow touch will avoid what looks sound enough: till +in returning, perhaps you see that the hard crust concealed +but rotten things beneath: as in an ill-made +dumpling. It needs no small amount of training +to judge between the man who quickly and with +certainty satisfies himself of the safety of a particular +snow passage, and the man who is too careless +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page26">[pg 26]</span><a name="Pg026" id="Pg026" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>properly to investigate it; yet without such experience +the amateur is not really able to decide whether a +guide be a good or a bad one. +</p> +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Sentiment on a summit</span></div></div> +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Here and there along the ridge short rock passages +gave a welcome relief and at length we stood on +the highest point of the ridge which culminates so +gently in the actual peak of the Südlenzspitz. Our +first care was to scrape about and hunt diligently for +traces of any previous party. No relic of conviviality +could be found, and as all the flat stones about +appeared to be in their natural state of disorder, we +piled up some of them into a neat little heap, and +came to the conclusion that we had performed very +doughty deeds. But we were younger then. The +sun was out, there was a dead calm, and we lay +for a while basking in the warmth and planning a +serious expedition for some future year. It may seem +strange in these days of rocket-like mountaineering +when the climber, like the poet, <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">nascitur non fit</span></span>, but +the peak whose assault we discussed was none other +than the Matterhorn. It was no longer thought +that goblins and elves tenanted its crags; but although +these spectres had not yet been frightened away and +turned out of house and home by sardine boxes and +broken bottles, some trace of prestige still adhered to +the mountain. It had not then, like a galley slave, +been bound with chains, or, even as a trussed chicken, +girt about with many cords. Nor was the ascent of +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page27">[pg 27]</span><a name="Pg027" id="Pg027" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the peak then talked about as carelessly as might be +a walk along Margate pier. Alexander Burgener had +never been up the peak, though he was most anxious +to get an opportunity of doing so. I can remember +well the advice that was given to me on the top of the +Südlenzspitz to practise further on a few less formidable +mountains before attacking the fascinating Mont +Cervin itself. Alas for the old days and the old style +of mountaineering! It may be doubted whether such +discussions often take place nowadays; but then it +was only my sixth season in the Alps. The following +year we did hatch out the project laid on the top of +the Südlenzspitz to climb the Matterhorn together. +To this moment I can remember as I write every +detail of the climb and every incident of the day as +vividly as if it were yesterday; and what a splendid +expedition it was then. The old, old fascination can +never come back again in quite the same colours; +better, perhaps, that it should not. Is it always true +that <span class="tei tei-q">“a sorrow’s crown of sorrow is remembering +happier things”</span>? Surely there is a keenness and a +depth of pleasure to be found in recalling happiness, +though it may never return in its old form; and the +memory of pleasure just toned with a trace of sadness +is one of the most profound emotions that can stir the +human heart. Go on and climb the Alps ye that +follow: nowhere else will you find the same pleasure. +But it is changed, and in this amusement the old +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page28">[pg 28]</span><a name="Pg028" id="Pg028" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>fascination will never be quite the same to you. It +may be, it will be, equally keen, but as there is a +difference between skating on virgin ice and that which, +though still good, is scored by marks of predecessors, +so will you fail to find a something which in the olden +days of mountaineering seemed always present. Go +elsewhere if you will, and seek fresh fields for mountaineering +enterprise in the Caucasus, the Himalayas, +the Andes. There you will find the mountains have +a charm of their own: the mark is as good, but it is +not the Alpine mark. That has been taken by others. +<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Beati possidentes.</span></span> +</p> +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The feast is spread</span></div></div> +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Judging by the nature of these sentiments it would +seem that we must have become pensive to the verge +of slumber while on the summit. In descending, we +followed our morning’s tracks, and scorning the +seductive shelter of the hut made straight down for +the hotel. On this occasion we found Franz, who was +a man of varied resources and accomplishments, +hanging his shirt, which apparently he had just +washed, up to dry. Our unexpected arrival appeared +to disconcert him a little, for the straitened nature of +his wardrobe precluded him, to his great disappointment, +from appearing at dinner in full costume. He +conceived, however, an ingenious, though somewhat +transparent subterfuge, and made believe that he had +got a bad cold in the chest which compelled him to +button his coat up tight round the neck. In honour +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page29">[pg 29]</span><a name="Pg029" id="Pg029" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>of our achievements he said he would go down to the +cellar and bring us up a curious old wine. The cellar +consisted apparently of a packing-case in a shed. Old +the wine may have been; curious it certainly was, for +it possessed a strong heathery flavour and seemed to +turn hot very suddenly and stick fast in the throat +like champagne at a suburban charity ball. But +nevertheless, with the remnants of the blackbird or +some other <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">rara avis</span></span> made into a species of pie, we +feasted royally. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +A few days later we crossed over to Zermatt by +the Alphubel Joch, a heavy fall of snow having prevented +any idea of making our contemplated assault +on the Dom. A Swiss gentleman of a lively nature +and excessive loquacity accompanied us. He was not +an adroit snow walker, and disappeared on some five +or six occasions abruptly into crevasses. The moment, +however, that he got his head out again, he resumed +his narrative at the exact point at which it had been +perforce broken off without exhibiting the least discomposure. +The subject to which his remarks referred +I did not succeed in ascertaining. We parted at a +little chalet not far from the Riffel, leaving our friend +lying flat on his back on the grass contemplating the sky +with a fixed expression, with his hands folded over his +waistcoat. He may have been a poet inspired with +a sudden desire for composition for aught I know, or +may have assumed this attitude as likely to facilitate +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page30">[pg 30]</span><a name="Pg030" id="Pg030" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the absorption of a prodigious quantity of milk which +he took at the chalet. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +As we drew nearer to the odd mixture of highly +coloured huts and comfortable hotels that make up +the village of Zermatt, a sense of returning home +crept over the mind, a consciousness of friends at +hand, of warm welcomes, mixed with the half presentiment +that is always felt on such occasions, that +some change would be found; but happily it was not +so. The roadway was in its former state; the cobble +stones a trifle more irregular and worn more smooth, +but still the same. The same guides, or their prototypes, +were sitting on the same wall drumming their +heels. The same artist was hard at work on a sketch +of the Matterhorn in a field hard by. The same party +just returning from the Görner Grat. The same +man looking out with sun-scorched face from the salon +window and the same click from the self-willed billiard +balls on the uncertain table below. Ay, and the same +unmistakable heartfelt greetings and handshakings at +the door of the Monte Rosa. Churlish indeed should +we have been if we had sighed to think that we had +met our warmest welcome at an inn. +</p> + +</div><hr class="page" /><div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page31">[pg 31]</span><a name="Pg031" id="Pg031" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> +<a name="toc7" id="toc7"></a> + <a name="pdf8" id="pdf8"></a> +<h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"><span style="font-size: 173%">CHAPTER II.</span></h1> + +<h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"><span style="font-size: 144%">THE ROTHHORN (MOMING) FROM ZERMATT</span></h1> + +<div class="tei tei-argument" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em"><p class="tei tei-p" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 0.90em"><span style="font-size: 90%"> +The Alpine dramatis personæ—Mountaineering fact and romance—The +thirst for novelty and its symptoms—The first ascent of the +Moming—Preliminaries are observed—Rock </span><span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-style: italic">v.</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%"> snow mountains—The +amateur and the guide on rocks and on snow—The programme +is made out—Franz Andermatten—Falling stones in the +</span><a name="corr031" id="corr031" class="tei tei-anchor" style="text-align: center"></a><span class="tei tei-corr" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 90%">gully</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">—We smooth away the difficulties—The psychological +effects of reaching mountain summits—A rock bombardment and +a narrow escape—The youthful tourist and his baggage—Hotel +trials—We are interviewed—The gushers. +</span></p></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +The writer of an Alpine narrative labours under more +disadvantages than most literary folk—if authors +generally will permit the association, and allow that +those who rush into print with their Alpine experiences +have the smallest claim to be dignified with such a +title. One drawback is that their accounts necessarily +suffer from a paucity of characters. A five-act tragedy +supported, to use a theatrical expression, by two walking +gentlemen, one heavy lead and a low comedy +<span class="tei tei-q">“super,”</span> might possibly pall upon an audience, but in +Alpine literature, if I may be permitted to push the +metaphor a little further, not only is this the case but +the unhappy reader finds the characters like <span class="tei tei-q">“barn +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page32">[pg 32]</span><a name="Pg032" id="Pg032" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>stormers”</span> playing now comedy, now tragedy, and +sometimes, it may possibly be added, dramas of +romance. +</p> +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Fact and romance</span></div></div> +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Again, in all matters absolutely relating to mountaineering +in the Alps, the narrator feels bound +to stick to matters of fact. The drama of romance +must be excluded from his répertoire, or, at any rate, +very cautiously handled. I knew a man once, who +on a single occasion went a-fishing in Norway and +caught a salmon. Naturally he was proud of the +achievement, and when in the company of brother +sportsmen, would hold up his head, assume a knowing +air, and take part in the conversation, such conversation +relating, of course, to the size of the various fish +those present had caught. Such unswerving and +prosaic veracity did my friend possess, that, though +sorely tempted as he must have been on many occasions, +for ten years he never added a single ounce to +the weight of his fish. A writer, an Alpine scribbler +at any rate, is perhaps justified if he introduces +incidents into an account of an expedition which may +not have happened on that particular occasion, but +which did happen on some other; and surely he +may, without impropriety, romance a little on such +part of his work as is not strictly geographical; for +example, he may describe a chalet as being dirty, +when according to the peasant’s standard of cleanliness +it would have been considered spotless, or describe +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page33">[pg 33]</span><a name="Pg033" id="Pg033" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>a view as magnificent, when as a matter of fact he +paid no attention to it, but he would be acting most +culpably if he asserted that he got within fifty feet of +the summit, well knowing that he was not fifty feet +from the base of the peak, or if he stated that rocks +were impossible, or an ice-fall impracticable, when the +sole reason for his failure consisted in his being possessed +with a strong desire to go back home. Of course +a writer can only give his own impressions, and these +are much tempered by increased experience and the +lapse of time, but in taking up old accounts of +Alpine work one not unfrequently finds a good deal +of description that requires toning down. In these +sketches I have striven honestly to render all that relates +intimately to the actual mountains as accurate +as possible, and would sooner be considered a dull than +an unreliable historian. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +It is no easy matter to reproduce almost on the +spot an account of a climb with absolute accuracy, +however strong the desire may be to do so. Besides, +a climber does not pursue his pastime with a note +book perpetually open before him. If he does, his +mountaineering is more of a business than he is +usually willing to admit. The guide often, the +amateur commonly, fails to recognise exactly from a +distance a line of ascent or descent on rocks, though +but just completed. Still more difficult is it to work +out the precise details of a particular route on a map +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page34">[pg 34]</span><a name="Pg034" id="Pg034" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>or photograph. The microscopist knows that the +higher powers of his instrument give him no additional +insight into the structure of certain objects, +but rather mislead. Even so may my readers be +asked to employ but gymnoscopic criticism of these +sketches. +</p> +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The thirst for novelty</span></div></div> +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +In September 1872 our party reached Zermatt +from Chamouni by the <span class="tei tei-q">“high-level”</span> route, a series of +walks which no amount of familiarity will ever deprive +of their charm, and concerning which more will be +found elsewhere in this work. All Alpine climbers +were then burning as fiercely as they ever did to +achieve something new. They had just begun to +realise that the stock of new peaks and passes was +not inexhaustible, and that the supply was wholly +inadequate to meet the demand. This feeling showed +itself in various ways. Climbers looked upon each +other with something of suspicion and jealousy, and +if any new expedition was being planned by any one +of their number the others would quickly recognise +the state of affairs. If an Alpine man were found +secreted in obscure corners conversing in a low voice +with his guides and intent on a study of the map, or +if he returned evasive answers when questioned as to +his plans, he was at once set down as having, probably, +a new expedition in mind. As for the guides, +they assumed at once airs of importance, as does a +commencing schoolboy newly arrayed in a tall hat, +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page35">[pg 35]</span><a name="Pg035" id="Pg035" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>and exhibited such mystery that their intentions were +unmistakable. Their behaviour, indeed, may have +been partly due to the fact that the natural efforts of +their comrades to extract information was invariably +accompanied by somewhat undue hospitality, and their +brotherly feelings were usually expressed in an acceptably +liquid form. As a rule such hospitality did not +fail in its object. Whether due to a certain natural +leakiness of mind on the part of the guides or not, +I cannot say, but certainly the information always +oozed out, and the intentions of the party were invariably +thoroughly well known before the expedition +actually started to achieve fresh glory. Every one of +the first-rate peaks in the Zermatt district had been +ascended, most of them over and over again, before +1872, but the Rothhorn was still out of the pale of +the Zermatt expeditions. Messrs. Leslie Stephen +and F. Craufurd Grove, who first climbed the peak, +ascended it from Zinal, and descended to the same +place. It seemed to us, therefore, that if we could +prove the accessibility of the mountain from Zermatt, +we should do something more than merely climb the +peak by a new route. The rocks looked attractive, +and the peak itself lay so immediately above Zermatt +that it seemed possible enough to make the ascent +without sleeping out or consuming any great amount +of time. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +We went through all the necessary preliminary +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page36">[pg 36]</span><a name="Pg036" id="Pg036" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>formalities. We assumed airs of mystery at times; +why, I know not. We inspected distant peaks through +the telescope. At other times we displayed an excess +of candour, and talked effusively about districts remote +from that which we intended to investigate. +We climbed up a hill, and surveyed the face of our +mountain through a telescope, thereby wasting a day +and acquiring no information whatever. We pointed +out to each other the parts of the mountain which +appeared most difficult, and displayed marvellous differences +of opinion on the subject, owing, as it is usually +the case, to the circumstance that we were commonly, +in all probability, talking at the same time about totally +distinct parts of the peak. With the telescope I succeeded +in discovering to my own entire satisfaction a +perfectly impracticable route to the summit. Finally, +in order that no single precaution might be omitted +to ensure success, we sent up the guides to reconnoitre—a +most useless proceeding. We had new +nails put in our boots, ordered provisions, uncoiled +our rope and coiled it up again quite unnecessarily, +gave directions that we should be called at an unhallowed +hour in the morning, and went to bed under +the impression that we should not be object in the least +to turn out at the time arranged. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Rock v. snow mountains</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +It is on the rock mountains of Switzerland that +the acme of enjoyment is to be found. Not that +I wish to disparage the snow-peaks; but if a +com<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page37">[pg 37]</span><a name="Pg037" id="Pg037" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>parison be instituted it is to most climbers, at any rate +in their youthful days, infinitely in favour of the rock. +Of course it may be argued that there are comparatively +few mountains where the two are not combined. +But a mountaineer classifies peaks roughly +as rock or snow, according to the chief obstacles that +each presents. A climber may encounter serious +difficulties in the way of bergschrunds, steep couloirs, +soft snow, and so forth; but if on the same expedition +he meets with rocks which compel him to put +forth greater energies and perseverance than the snow +required, he will set the expedition down as a difficult +rock climb, simply, of course, because the idea of +difficulty which is most vividly impressed on his mind +is in connection with that portion of his climb, and +<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">vice versâ</span></span>. An undeniable drawback to the snow +peaks consists in their monotony. The long series of +steps that have to be cut at times, or the dreary wading +for hours through soft or powdery snow, are not +always forgotten in the pleasure of overcoming the +difficulties of a crevasse, reaching the summit of a +peak, or the excitement of a good glissade. It is the +diversity of obstacles that meet the rock climber, the +uncertainty as to what may turn up next, the doubt +as to the possibility of finding the friendly crack or +the apposite ledge, that constitute some of the main +charms. Every step is different, every muscle is called +into play as the climber is now flattened against a +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page38">[pg 38]</span><a name="Pg038" id="Pg038" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>rough slab, now abnormally stretched from one hold +to another, or folded up like the conventional pictures +of the ibex, and every step can be recalled afterwards +with pleasure and amusement as the mountain is +climbed over again in imagination. +</p> +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The amateur and the guide</span></div></div> +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +But there is more than this; on rocks the amateur +is much less dependent on his guides and has much +more opportunity of exercising his own powers. It +must be admitted that on rocks some amateurs are +occasionally wholly dependent not on, but from their +guides, and take no more active share in locomotion +than does a bale of goods in its transit from a ship’s +hold to a warehouse. Too often the amateurs who +will not take the trouble to learn something of the +science and art of mountaineering are but an impediment, +an extra burden, as has been often said, to the +guides. The guides have to hack out huge steps for +their benefit. The amateurs wholly trust to them for +steering clear of avalanches, rotten snow bridges, and +the like. The amateur’s share in a snow ascent +usually consists, in fact, either in counselling retreat, +insisting on progress, indicating impossible lines of +ascent, or in the highly intellectual and arithmetical +exercise of counting the number of steps hewn out to +ensure his locomotion in the proper direction. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Place the unpaid climber, on the other hand, on +rocks. Here the probability is that a slip will entail +no unpleasant consequences to anyone but the slipper. +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page39">[pg 39]</span><a name="Pg039" id="Pg039" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>The power of sustaining a sudden strain is so enormously +increased when the hands have a firm grip +that the amateur can, if he please, sprawl and +scramble unaided over difficult places with satisfaction +to himself and usually without risk to anyone else; +that is, as soon as he has fully persuaded the guides (no +easy task, I admit) that the process of pulling vehemently +at the rope, possibly encircling his waist in a +slip knot, is as detrimental to his equilibrium as it is to +his digestion. Guides, however, as has been hinted, +do not acknowledge this fact in animal mechanics, +and their employers frequently experience as an acute +torture that compressing process which, more deliberately +applied, is not regarded by some as hurtful, +but rather as a necessary accompaniment of fashionable +attire. When the amateur has succeeded in +overcoming the natural instinct of the guides to pull +when there is no occasion to do so, he becomes a unit +in the party, a burden of course, and a hindrance to +some guides, but nothing to what he was on the +snow. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Sentiments similar to the above have not unfrequently +been set forth in print: they seldom, if ever, +actuate the minds of mountaineers when actually +engaged in their pastime or when describing their +exploits to less skilled persons. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +There is great satisfaction, too, in translating +one’s self over a given difficult rock passage without +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page40">[pg 40]</span><a name="Pg040" id="Pg040" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>other assistance than that provided by nature herself, +and without surreptitious aid from one’s neighbour in +the shape of steps. Then again, snow mountains are +as inconsistent as cheap aneroids. One day each step +costs much labour and toil, and almost the next +perhaps the peak will allow itself to be conquered in +one-tenth of the time. Not that the writer seeks to +argue that there is no pleasure to be derived from +snow mountains. It is to climbing <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">per se</span></span> that these +remarks apply. After all, everyone has his own +opinion; but he who has not tasted the pleasures of +a really difficult and successful rock climb—especially +if it be a new one—knows not what the Alps can +really do for his amusement. +</p> +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The guides’ room</span></div></div> +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +An expedition of suitable magnitude and difficulty +was suggested by the guides, viz. an ascent of the +Rothhorn (or Moming) from the Zermatt side. Mr. +Passingham of Cambridge was at the time staying at +the Monte Rosa Hotel, and it was soon arranged that +we should combine our forces. The guides, on being +asked their opinion as to the projected climb, reported +diplomatically that, given fine weather, the ascent +would be difficult but possible. This is the answer +that the guides generally do give. We decided to +attempt the whole excursion in a single day, considering +that a short rest in the comparatively luxurious +beds provided by M. Seiler was preferable on the +whole to more prolonged repose in a shepherd’s hut; +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page41">[pg 41]</span><a name="Pg041" id="Pg041" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>for the so-called repose means usually a night of +misery, and the misery under these conditions is apt +to make a man literally acquainted with strange +bed-fellows. At 2 in the morning we sought for +the guides’ room, to superintend the packing of our +provisions. It was not easy to find, but at last we +discovered a dingy little subterranean vault with one +small window tightly jammed up and covered with +dust. Of this den there were two occupants. One +was employed silently in eating large blocks of a +curious boiled mess out of a pipkin. The other was +smoking a very complicated pipe, and sitting bolt +upright on a bench with half a bottle of <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">vin ordinaire</span></span> +before him. Why he was carousing thus in the +small hours was not evident. From these signs we +judged correctly that the apartment was devoted to the +guides as a dining, smoking, club and recreation room. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Our staff was already in attendance, and it struck +both of us that the success of the expedition was a +foregone conclusion if it depended on the excellence of +our guides—Alexander Burgener, the embodiment of +strength, endurance, and pluck; Ferdinand Imseng, +of activity and perseverance, alone would have sufficed, +but we had in addition a tough, weather-beaten, cheery +companion (for he was always a companion as well as +a guide), Franz Andermatten, ever sagacious, ever +helpful and ever determined. It would be hard to +find a successor adequately to fill our old friend’s place. +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page42">[pg 42]</span><a name="Pg042" id="Pg042" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>It is impossible to efface his memory from my mind, +nor can I ever forget how on that day he showed all +his best qualities and contributed mainly to our +success.<a id="noteref_1" name="noteref_1" href="#note_1"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">1</span></span></a> The prologue is spoken; let us raise the +curtain on the comedy. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A false start</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +The guides had already made their usual preparations +for packing up—that is to say, they had constructed +a multiplicity of little paper parcels and +spread them about the room. As to the contents of +these little parcels, they were of course uncertain, and +all had to be undone to make sure that nothing had +been omitted. A good deal of time was thus lost, and +nothing much was gained, except that we corrected +the error of packing up a handful of loose lucifers and +two tallow dips with the butter and honey in a glass +tumbler. Then the parcels were stowed away in the +knapsacks, the straps of course all rearranged and +ultimately replaced by odds and ends of string. +Eventually, at 3 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span>, we started, leaving the two +occupants of the guides’ room still engaged in the +same manner as when they first came under observation, +and walked up the narrow valley running due +north of Zermatt and leading towards the Trift Joch +and the base of the mountain for which we were +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page43">[pg 43]</span><a name="Pg043" id="Pg043" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>making. Having journeyed for about half an hour, +it was discovered that the telescope had been left +behind. Franz instantly started off to get it; not +because it was considered particularly necessary, but +chiefly on the ground that it is not orthodox to go on +a new expedition without a telescope. We stumbled up +the narrow winding path, and close below the moraine +called our first halt and waited for Franz’s return. +I selected a cool rock on which to complete the slumber +which had been commenced in bed and continued on +a tilted chair in the guides’ room. After waiting an +hour we decided to proceed, as no answer was returned +to our frequent shouts. Presently, however, a distant +yell attracted our attention, and we beheld, to our +astonishment, the cheery face of Franz looking down +on us from the top of the moraine. Stimulated by +this apparition, we pushed on with great vigour, +clambered up the moraine, whose extreme want of +cohesion necessitated a treadmill style of progression, +and having reached the top passed along it to the +snow. Here we bore first to the right, and then, +working round, made straight for a sharp-topped +buttress which juts out at a right angle from the +main mass of the mountain. Arrived at a patch of +rocks near the commencement of the arête, we +disencumbered ourselves of superfluous baggage; that +is to say, after the traditional manner of mountaineers, +we discarded about three-fourths of the +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page44">[pg 44]</span><a name="Pg044" id="Pg044" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>impedimenta we had so laboriously dragged up to +that point, and of which at no subsequent period of +the expedition did we make the slightest use. Next, +we prepared for such rock difficulties as might present +themselves, by buttoning up our coats as tight as +was convenient, and decorated our heads respectively +with woollen extinguishers like unto the covers placed +by old maids over cherished teapots. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +It is a grand moment that, when the difficulty of +an expedition opens out, when you grasp the axe +firmly, settle in to the rope, and brace up the muscles +for the effort of the hour: a moment probably the +most pleasurable of the whole expedition, when the +peak towers clear and bright above, when the climber +realises that he is on the point of deciding whether he +shall achieve or fail in achieving a long wished for +success, or what it may be perhaps allowable to call a +cutting-out expedition (for even mountain climbers +are prone to small jealousies). The excitement on +nearing the actual summit often rather fades away +than increases, and the climber lounges up the last +few steps to the top with the same sort of nonchalance +that a guest invited to drink displays in approaching +the bar. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Falling stones in the gully</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Dividing into two parties, we passed rapidly along +the snow ridge which abuts against the east face of the +mountain. The cliffs of the Rothhorn seem almost to +overhang on this face, and were from our point of +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page45">[pg 45]</span><a name="Pg045" id="Pg045" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>view magnificent. On the right, too, the precipice is +a sheer one, to employ a not uncommon epithet. +Without much difficulty we clambered up the first +part of the face of the mountain, taking a zigzag +course towards the large gully which is distinctly +visible from the other side of the valley, and which +terminates above in a deep jagged notch in the ridge +not far below the summit. Gradually the climbing +became more difficult, and it was found necessary to +cross the gully backwards and forwards on several +occasions. In so crossing we were exposed to some +risk from falling stones; that is to say, some chips and +bits of rock on a few occasions went flying by without +any very apparent reason. In those days mountaineers +were in the habit of considering these projectiles +as a possible source of risk. A later generation +would pass them by as easily as the stones passed by +us, and it is not now the fashion to consider such a +situation as we were in at all dangerous. It is difficult +to see the reason why. Perhaps people’s heads +are harder now than they were then. For the greater +part of the time we kept to the left or south side of +the gully, and reaching the notch looked right down +upon the commencement of the Glacier du Durand, a +fine expanse of snowfield, singularly wild-looking and +much crevassed. Turning to the right, we ascended a +short distance along the ridge, and then a halt was +called. The guides now proceeded to arrange a length +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page46">[pg 46]</span><a name="Pg046" id="Pg046" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>of some hundred feet of rope on the rocks above to +assist in our return. The process sorely tried our +patience, and we were right glad when the signal was +given to go on again. We had now to leave the arête, +to descend a little, and so pass on to the west face of +the mountain, and by this face to ascend and gradually +work back to the ridge. No doubt during this +part of the climb we made much the same mistake in +judgment as had previously been made on a memorable +ascent of the Matterhorn, and crossed far more +on to the face than was really necessary or advisable. +The mountain has since the time when these lines +were originally written passed through the regular +stages of gradual depreciation, and it is more difficult +now to realise that we considered it at the time very +difficult. Probably, however, subsequent travellers +have improved considerably on the details of the route +we actually followed; at any rate the ascent is now +considered quite proper for a novice to attempt, at +any rate by the novice himself. We worked ourselves +slowly along in the teeth of a biting cold wind, and +without finding the fixed rope necessary to assist our +progress. Reaching the ridge again, the way became +distinctly easier, and we felt now that the peak was +at our mercy. Presently, however, we came to a huge +inverted pyramid of rock that tried rather successfully +to look like the summit, and we had some little difficulty +in surmounting it. By dint of strange acrobatic +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page47">[pg 47]</span><a name="Pg047" id="Pg047" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>feats and considerable exertion we hoisted our leading +guide on to the top. It was fortunate for him perhaps +that the seams of his garments were not machine-sewn, +or he would certainly have rent his raiment. Finding, +however, that the only alternative that offered when +he got to the top of the rock was to get down again on +the other side, the rest of us concluded that on the +whole we should prefer to walk round. The last few +yards were perfectly easy, and at 1.30 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span> we stood on +the summit enjoying a most magnificent view in every +direction. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Effects of reaching a summit</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +It is a somewhat curious phenomenon, but one +frequently remarked, that the mountaineer’s characteristics +seem abruptly to change when he reaches +the summit of a peak. The impressionable, excitable +person instantly becomes preternaturally calm and +prosaic, while those of lymphatic temperament have +not unfrequently been observed to develop suddenly +rather explosive qualities, and to yell or wave their +hats without any very apparent incitement thereto. +Individuals whose detractors hold to be gifted with +poetic attributes have been heard to utter quite +commonplace remarks, and I have even known a +phlegmatic companion so far forget himself, under +these modifying circumstances, as to make an excessively +bad pun and laugh very heartily at it himself, +quite an unusual occurrence in a wag. Others find +relief for their feelings by punching their companions +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page48">[pg 48]</span><a name="Pg048" id="Pg048" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>violently in the back, or resorting to such horse-play +as the area of the summit allows scope for. Directly, +however, the descent commences the climber resumes +his normal nature. The fact is, that in most cases, +perhaps, the chief pleasure of the expedition does not +come at the moment when the climber realises that he +is about to undo, as it were, all his work of the day. +There is no real climax of an expedition, and, as has +been said, it is quite artificial to suppose that the +enjoyment must culminate on reaching the top. But +still it is considered proper to testify to some unusual +emotional feelings. Some of the most enjoyable climbs +that the mountaineer can recall in after life, are not +those in which he has reached any particular point. +Guides consider it becoming to evince in a somewhat +forced way the liveliness of their delight on completing +an ascent. But such joy as they exhibit is usually +about as genuine and heartfelt as an organ-grinder’s +grin, or a Lord Mayor’s smile on receiving a guest +whom he does not know and who has merely come to +feed at his expense. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +The wind was too cold to permit of a very long +stay on the summit, and having added a proper +number of stones to the cairn, a ceremony as indispensable +as the cutting of a notch in the mainmast +when the traditional fisherman changes his shirt, we +descended rapidly to the point where it was necessary +to quit the ridge. Down the first portion of the steep +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page49">[pg 49]</span><a name="Pg049" id="Pg049" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>rock slope we passed with great caution, some of the +blocks of stone being treacherously loose, or only +lightly frozen to the face. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A narrow escape</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +We had arrived at the most difficult part of the +whole climb, and at a rock passage which at that +time we considered was the nastiest we had ever +encountered. The smooth, almost unbroken face of +the slope scarcely afforded any foot-hold, and our +security almost entirely depended on the rope we had +laid down in our ascent. Had not the rope been in +position we should have varied our route, and no +doubt found a line of descent over this part much +easier than the one we actually made for, even without +any help from the fixed cord. Imseng was far +below, working his way back to the arête, while the +rest of the party were holding on or moving but +slowly with faces turned to the mountain. Suddenly +I heard a shout from above; those below glanced up +at once: a large flat slab of rock, that had afforded +us good hold in ascending, but proved now to have +been only frozen in to a shallow basin of ice, had been +dislodged by the slightest touch from one of the party +above, and was sliding down straight at us. It seemed +an age, though the stone could not have had to +fall more than ten feet or so, before it reached us. +Just above me it turned its course slightly; Franz, +who was just below, more in its direct line of descent, +attempted to stop the mass, but it ground his hands +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page50">[pg 50]</span><a name="Pg050" id="Pg050" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>against the rock and swept by straight at Imseng. A +yell from us hardly awoke him to the danger: the +slab slid on faster and faster, but just as we expected +to see our guide swept away, the rock gave a bound +for the first time, and as, with a startled expression, +he flung himself against the rock face, it leapt +up and, flying by within a few inches of his head, +thundered down below. A moment or two of silence +followed, and then a modified cheer from Imseng, as +subdued as that of a <span class="tei tei-q">“super”</span> welcoming a theatrical +king, announced his safety, and he looked up at us +with a serious expression on his face. Franz’s escape +had been a remarkably lucky one, but his hands were +badly cut about and bruised. In fact it was a near +thing for all of us, and the mere recollection will +still call up that odd sort of thrill a man experiences +on suddenly recollecting at 11 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span> that he ought to +have dined out that evening with some very particular +people. Had not the rock turned its course just +before it reached Franz, and bounded from the face +of the mountain over Imseng’s head, one or more +of the party must unquestionably have been swept +away. The place was rather an exceptional one, +and the rock glided a remarkably long distance without +a bound, but still the incident may serve to +show that falling stones are not a wholly imaginary +danger. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The youthful tourist</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +It would have been difficult, with the elementary +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page51">[pg 51]</span><a name="Pg051" id="Pg051" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>knowledge of mountaineering that I now see we +possessed at that day, to have descended without +using the attached rope, and quite out of the question +for anyone possessed of a proper respect for his suit +of dittos to have done so. In this latter respect we +had to exercise economical caution: for we had no +very great store at the hotel or many changes of +raiment. It is generally possible to gauge pretty +accurately an Alpine traveller’s experience by the +amount of luggage he takes on a tour. Some tourists, +following the advice given in the <span class="tei tei-q">“Practical Guide +Book”</span> (a disconnected work written in the style of +Mr. Jingle’s conversation, but much in favour at one +time), were in the habit of travelling with one suit of +clothes and a portable bath. The latter, though they +took it with them, they seldom took more than once; +at the best it was of comparatively little use as an +article of apparel, but imparted an aromatic flavour +to anything packed up in its immediate neighbourhood. +In those youthful days we considered, forsooth, +that a little leathern wallet adequately replaced a +portmanteau, and in transporting luggage did not +always act on the sound commercial maxim that you +should never do anything for yourself which a paid +person might do equally well for you; consequently a +heavy rain shower reduced the traveller to inactivity, +and an oversight on the part of the laundress entailed +consequences that it is not permissible to mention. +</p> + +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page52">[pg 52]</span><a name="Pg052" id="Pg052" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Meanwhile our turn had come to move on. A +zigzagging crack, which was too narrow to admit of +anything but a most uncomfortable position, afforded +the only hand and foot hold on which we could rely. +Our gloveless hands, clutching at the rope, cooled +down slowly to an unpleasant temperature that rendered +it doubtful whether they were attached to the +arms or not, and we began to wish we had gone down +the Zinal side of the mountain. However, Imseng +wormed himself along the rocks, to which he adhered +with the tenacity of a lizard, and finally reached the +end of our rope and a region of comparative safety. +We followed his example slowly, and, having joined +him, seated ourselves on some rocks inappropriately +designed for repose, and finished off the food we had +with us. Climbing carefully down the east face of +the mountain, we reached the snow ridge and passed +rapidly along it, our spirits rising exuberantly as we +looked back on the vanquished peak. As usually +happens, the guides had entirely forgotten the place +where they had concealed our baggage on the ascent, +and in fact had hidden it so carefully that they had +some difficulty in finding it when they came to the spot. +It is curious to note how often the instinct of guides, +so much talked about, is at fault in this matter, and +how systematically they are in the habit of carrying +up on the mountains superfluous articles, hiding +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page53">[pg 53]</span><a name="Pg053" id="Pg053" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>them with entirely unnecessary precautions, and subsequently +forgetting the whole transaction. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Hotel trials</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +While they searched about for their cache we +enjoyed the use of tobacco, if such an expression be +allowable in the case of some curious stuff purchased +in the valley. Still, as the packet in which it was +contained was labelled <span class="tei tei-q">“Tabak,”</span> we considered it to be +such. Being indulgently disposed, and not being +profound botanists, poetic license alone enabled us to +imagine that +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-left: 2.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> +<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 14.00em"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left">“We soared above</span></div> +<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Dull earth, in those ambrosial clouds like Jove,</div> +<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">And from our own empyrean height</div> +<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left">Looked down upon Zermatt with calm delight.”</span></div> +</div> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The gushers</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +It may have been so; it gave me a sore throat. +Descending rapidly, we reached the Monte Rosa Hotel +at 7 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span>, in an exultant frame of mind, a ragged condition +of attire, and a preposterous state of hunger. +The whole time occupied in the climb was sixteen +hours. Of this an hour was wasted while we were +waiting for the telescope, and three-quarters of an +hour was spent in arranging the rope, by the aid of +which we descended. Probably in actual climbing +and walking we employed rather under thirteen +hours; but the snow was in excellent order, and we +descended on the whole very rapidly. Our trials were +not over for the day, when we reached the hotel. Two +arch young things had prepared an ambuscade and +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page54">[pg 54]</span><a name="Pg054" id="Pg054" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>surprised us successfully at the door of the hotel. +Sweetly did they gush. <span class="tei tei-q">“Oh! where had we been?”</span> +We said we had been up in the mountains, indicating +the general line of locality with retrospective thumb. +<span class="tei tei-q">“Oh! wasn’t it fearfully dangerous? Weren’t we all +tied tightly together?”</span> (as if, on the principle of +union being strength, we had been fastened up and +bound like a bundle of quill pens). <span class="tei tei-q">“Oh! hadn’t we +done something very wonderful?”</span> The situation was +becoming irritating. <span class="tei tei-q">“Oh! didn’t we have to drag +ourselves up precipices by the chamois horns on the +tops of our sticks?”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“No indeed——”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Oh! really, +now, that guide there”</span> (a driver with imperfectly buttoned +garments who was sitting on the wall with a +vacuous look) <span class="tei tei-q">“told us you were <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">such</span></span> wonderful +climbers.”</span> It was becoming exasperating. <span class="tei tei-q">“And oh! +we wanted to ask you so much, for you know all about +it. <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Do</span></span> you think we could walk over the Théodule? +Papa”</span> (great heavens! he must be a nonagenarian) +<span class="tei tei-q">“thinks we should be so foolish to try. Could you +persuade him?”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Well, really——”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Wouldn’t the +precipices make us dreadfully giddy?”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“No, no more +than you are now.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Oh! thank you so much. And +you really won’t tell us what awful ascent you have +been making?”</span> It was maddening. <span class="tei tei-q">“After dinner +perhaps?”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Oh! thank you. Oh! Sustie”</span> (this to +each other; they both spoke together: probably the +names were Susie and Tottie), <span class="tei tei-q">“won’t that be +delight<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page55">[pg 55]</span><a name="Pg055" id="Pg055" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>ful?”</span> By dexterous manœuvring we escaped these +gushing Circes during the evening. Happening to +pass later on by the open door of the little <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">salon</span></span>, the +following remark was overheard: <span class="tei tei-q">“My dear, the conceit +of these climbing objects is quite dreadful. They +do nothing but flourish their nasty sticks and ropes +about: they want the whole place to themselves”</span> (we +had been sitting on wooden chairs in the middle of +the high street, near an unsavoury heap of refuse), +<span class="tei tei-q">“and they talk, talk, talk, my dear, all day and all +night about what they have been doing in the mountains +and of their nonsensical climbs. And what +frights they look. I think they are perfectly horrid.”</span> +Can the voice have been that of the gusher? +</p> + +</div><hr class="page" /><div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page56">[pg 56]</span><a name="Pg056" id="Pg056" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> +<a name="toc9" id="toc9"></a> + <a name="pdf10" id="pdf10"></a> +<h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"><span style="font-size: 173%">CHAPTER III.</span></h1> + +<h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"><span style="font-size: 144%">EARLY ATTEMPTS ON THE AIGUILLE DU DRU</span></h1> + +<div class="tei tei-argument" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em"><p class="tei tei-p" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 0.90em"><span style="font-size: 90%"> +The Alps and the early mountaineers—The last peaks to surrender—The +Aiguille du Dru—Messrs. Kennedy and Pendlebury’s attempt +on the peak—One-day expeditions in the Alps and thoughts +on huts and sleeping out—The Chamouni guide system—A word +on guides, past and present—The somnolent landlord and his +peculiarities—Some of the party see a chamois—Doubts as to +the peak and the way—The duplicity of the Aiguille deceives us—Telescopic +observations—An ill-arranged glacier—Franz and +his mighty axe—A start on the rocks in the wrong direction—Progress +reported—An adjournment—The rocks of the lower +peak of the Aiguille du Dru—Our first failure—The expedition +resumed—A new line of ascent—We reach the sticking point—Beaten +back—The results gained by the two days’ climbing. +</span></p></div> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The last peaks to +surrender</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Accounts of failures on the mountains in books of +Alpine adventure are as much out of place, according +to some critics, as a new hat in a crowded church. +Humanly speaking, the possession of this head-gear +under such circumstances renders it impossible to +divert the thoughts wholly from worldly affairs. This, +however, by the way. Now the pioneers of the Alps, +the Stephenses, the Willses, the Moores, the Morsheads, +and many others, had used up all new +material with alarming rapidity, I might say voracity, +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page57">[pg 57]</span><a name="Pg057" id="Pg057" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>before the climbing epoch to which the present +sketches relate. There is an old story of a man who +arrived running in a breathless condition on a railway +platform just in time to see the train disappearing. +<span class="tei tei-q">“You didn’t run fast enough, sir,”</span> remarked the porter +to him. <span class="tei tei-q">“You idiot!”</span> was the answer, <span class="tei tei-q">“I ran plenty +fast enough, but I didn’t begin running soon enough.”</span> +Even so was it with the climbers of our generation. +They climbed with all possible diligence, but they began +their climbing too late. Novelty, that is the desire +for achieving new expeditions, was still considered of +paramount importance, but unfortunately there was +very little new material left. It is difficult to realise +adequately now the real veneration entertained for an +untrodden peak. A certain amount of familiarity +seemed indispensable before a new ascent was even +seriously contemplated. It had occurred to certain +bold minds that the aiguilles around Chamouni +might not be quite as bad as they looked. In 1873 +the chief of the still unconquered peaks of the Mont +Blanc district were the Aiguille des Charmoz, the +Aiguille Blaitière, the Aiguille du Géant, the Aiguille +Peuteret, the Aiguille du Dru, and a few other minor +points. All of these have since been captured, some +of them bound in chains. Opinions differed considerably +as to their accessibility. Some hopeful spirits +thought that by constantly <span class="tei tei-q">“pegging away”</span> they +might be scaled; others thought that the only feasible +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page58">[pg 58]</span><a name="Pg058" id="Pg058" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>plan would be indeed to peg away, but were of opinion +that the pegs should be of iron and driven into the +rock. Such views naturally lead to discussions, sometimes +rather heated, as to whether mountaineering +morality might fitly tolerate such aids to the climber. +Of all the peaks mentioned above, the Aiguille du Dru +and the Aiguille du Géant were considered as the +most hopeful by the leading guides, though the older +members of that body held out little prospect of +success. It is a rather curious fact that the majority +of the leading guides who gave their opinions to us in +the matter thought that the Aiguille du Géant was +the more promising peak to attack. Subsequent experience +has proved that they were greatly in error in +this judgment. The Aiguille du Géant has indeed +been ascended, but much more aid than is comprised +in the ordinary mountaineer’s equipment was found +necessary. In fact, the stronghold was not carried +by direct assault, but by sapping and mining. There +is a certain rock needle in Norway which, I am told, +was once, and once only, ascended by a party on surveying +operations bent. No other means could be +found, so a wooden structure was built up around the +peak, such as may be seen investing a dilapidated +church steeple; and the mountain, like the Royal +Martyr of history, yielded up its crowning point at +the scaffold. We did not like the prospect of employing +any such architectural means to gain our end and +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page59">[pg 59]</span><a name="Pg059" id="Pg059" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the summit, and, from no very clearly defined reasons, +turned our attention chiefly to the Aiguille du Dru. +Perhaps the prominent appearance of this Aiguille, +and the fact that its outline was so familiar from +the Montanvert, gradually imbued us with a certain +sense of familiarity, which ultimately developed +into a notion that if not actually accessible it might +at least be worth trying. It seemed too prominent to +be impossible; from its height—12,517 feet only—the +mountain would doubtless not attract much attention, +were it not so advantageously placed. Thousands +of tourists had gazed on its symmetrical form: it had +been photographed, stared at through binoculars, +portrayed in little distorted pictures on useless work-boxes, +trays and other toy-shop gimcracks, more +often than any other mountain of the chain, Mont +Blanc excepted. Like an undersized volunteer officer, +it no doubt made the most of its height. But in truth +the Aiguille du Dru is a magnificent mountain form, +with its vast dark precipices on the north face, with +its long lines of cliff, broken and jagged and sparsely +wrinkled with gullies free from even a patch or trace +of snow. Point after point, and pinnacle after pinnacle +catch the gaze as we follow the edge of the +north-west <span class="tei tei-q">“Kamm,”</span> until the eye rests at last on the +singularly graceful isosceles triangle of rock which +forms the peak. It is spoken of lightly as merely +a tooth of rock jutting up from the ridge which +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page60">[pg 60]</span><a name="Pg060" id="Pg060" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>culminates in the Aiguille Verte, but when viewed from +the Glacier de la Charpoua it is obviously a separate +mountain; at any rate it became such when the highest +point of the ridge, the Aiguille Verte, had been climbed +by somebody else. The cleft in the ridge on the right +side of the main mass of the Aiguille du Dru is a +very deep one as seen from the glacier, and the sharp +needle of rock which is next in the chain is a long +way from the Aiguille du Dru itself. North and south +the precipices run sheer down to the glaciers beneath. +The mountain has then four distinct sides, three of +them running down to great depths. Thus, even in +the prehistoric days of Alpine climbing, it had some +claim to individuality and might fairly be considered +as something more than, as it were, one unimportant +pinnacle on the roof of some huge cathedral. Perhaps, +however, repeated failures to ascend the mountain +begot undue veneration and caused an aspiring climber +to look with a prejudiced eye on its dimensions. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The Aiguille du Dru</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +So far as I know, the mountain had never been +assailed till 1873, when Messrs. Pendlebury and +Kennedy made an attempt. Mr. R. Pendlebury has +kindly furnished me with notes of the climb, which I +may be allowed to reproduce nearly in his own words:—Two +parties started simultaneously for the expedition. +One was composed of Messrs. Kennedy and Marshall, +with the guides Johann Fischer and Ulric Almer of +Grindelwald; the other party consisted of the Rev. +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page61">[pg 61]</span><a name="Pg061" id="Pg061" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>C. Taylor, Messrs. W. M. and R. Pendlebury, with the +guides Hans Baumann, Peter Baumann, and Edouard +Cupelin. The first-mentioned party slept at the +Montanvert, while the others enjoyed themselves in a +bivouac high up on the side of the Glacier de la Charpoua +between the Aiguille du Dru and the Aiguille +Moine. This Glacier de la Charpoua, it may be mentioned, +is sometimes called the Glacier du Chapeau. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The first attempt</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +The bivouac appears to have been so comfortable +that Mr. Pendlebury and his friends did not take +advantage of their start. The Montanvert detachment, +who found no such inducement to stay one moment +longer than was absolutely necessary<a id="noteref_2" name="noteref_2" href="#note_2"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">2</span></span></a> in their costly +quarters, caught them up the next morning, and the +whole party started together. Mr. Kennedy’s guides +kept to the left of the Glacier de la Charpoua, which +looks more broken up than the right-hand side, but +apparently proved better going. This, however, it +should be observed, was in 1873, and these hanging +glaciers alter marvellously in detail from year to year, +though always preserving from a distance the same +general features. On the same principle, at the +proper distance, a mother may be mistaken for her +daughter, especially by a judicious person. But on +drawing near, however discreet the observer may be, +he is yet conscious of little furrows, diminutive +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page62">[pg 62]</span><a name="Pg062" id="Pg062" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>wrinkles, and perhaps of a general shrinkage not to +be found in the more recent specimen. Speaking very +generally, I should say that these glaciers are, on the +whole, easier to traverse than they used to be: at any +rate my own personal observation of this particular +little glacier extends over a period of some years, and +the intricacies—it is hardly proper to call them difficulties—were +distinctly less towards the end of the time +than they were at the beginning. Of course a different +interpretation might be put upon such an opinion: +with the evolution of mountaineering skill the complexity +of these crumpled up snow-fields may seem to +have disentangled, but I am assured that in this particular +case it was not so. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">First attempt on the peak</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +This digression must be pardoned. It arose +naturally from the circumstance that the route Mr. +Kennedy adopted would have proved, at any rate in +later years, a digression from the best way. Mr. +Pendlebury’s party went straight up, keeping, that is, +to the right-hand side of the glacier. Towards the +upper part the snow slopes became steeper, and soon +some step-cutting was required. The object in view +was to reach the lowest point in the ridge between the +Aiguille du Dru and the Aiguille Verte. It was +thought that, by turning to the left from the col, +it might be possible to reach the summit by the +eastern arête. The col itself from below seemed +easily attainable by means of a narrow zigzagging +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page63">[pg 63]</span><a name="Pg063" id="Pg063" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>gully, interrupted here and there, that runs down +from the summit of the ridge. Ascending by the +rocks on the left of the gully the party made for +some little way good progress, but then a sudden +change came over the scene. After a consultation, it +was proposed that the guides Hans Baumann, Peter +Baumann, and Fischer should go on a little by themselves +and make for the ridge, which they estimated +lay about half an hour above them. They were then +to examine the rocks above and to bring back a report. +The rest of the party remained where they were, and +disported themselves as comfortably as circumstances +would permit. Hour after hour, however, passed +away, and the three guides seemed to make but little +progress. They returned at last with the melancholy +tidings that they had climbed nearly up to the ridge +and had found the rocks very difficult and dangerous. +(It should be noted that the line of attack chosen on +this occasion—the first serious attempt on the peak—was +devised by Hans Baumann, and it says much for +his sagacity that this very route proved years afterwards +to be the right one.) Questioned as to the +advisability of proceeding upwards, the guides employed +their favourite figure of speech and remarked +that not for millions of francs would they consent +to try again. Hans Baumann asserted that he had +never climbed more difficult rocks. This opinion, as +Mr. Pendlebury suggested at the time, was probably +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page64">[pg 64]</span><a name="Pg064" id="Pg064" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>owing to the fact that the cliffs above were covered +with snow and glazed with ice, and this condition of +the mountain face made each step precarious. The +amateurs of the party were of opinion that the ridge +would prove attainable later in the season or in exceptionally +fine weather. As to the possibility of climbing +the rocks above—that is to say, the actual peak—none +of the party were able to come to any very positive +conclusion. At a rough guess it was estimated that +the party halted between two and three hundred feet +below the ridge. On the presentation of the guides +report the whole caravan turned back and reached +Chamouni safely, but not entirely without incident, for +the monotony of the descent and Mr. Taylor’s head +were broken by the fall of a big stone. This little +accident, Mr. Pendlebury remarked with disinterested +cheerfulness, was but a trifle. I have not been able +to ascertain Mr. Taylor’s views on the subject. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +When our party first essayed the ascent we knew +none of the above particulars, save only that some +mountaineers had endeavoured to reach the ridge +but had failed to ascend to any great height. Of the +actual cause of their ill success, and whether it were +owing to the unpropitious elements or to the actual +difficulties encountered, we were unaware. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Huts and sleeping out</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +At the time of which I am writing, a somewhat +novel mode of ascending mountains was coming into +vogue, which consisted in waiting for a suitable day at +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page65">[pg 65]</span><a name="Pg065" id="Pg065" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>headquarters, starting at unheard-of hours, and completing +the expedition in one day—that is, within +twenty-four hours. It was argued in support of this +plan, that it was economical and that bivouacking +was but a laborious and expensive method of obtaining +discomfort. There are, said the advocates of the +method, but few mountains in the Alps which cannot +be ascended with much greater comfort in one day +than in two. The day’s climb is much more enjoyable +when it is possible to start from sleeping quarters in +which it is possible to sleep. The argument that repose +in hotel beds, though undoubtedly more luxurious, +was of comparatively little use if there were no time +to enjoy it, was held to be little to the purpose. Some +enthusiasts were wont to state that passing a night in a +chalet, or those magnified sentry boxes called cabanes, +constituted half the enjoyment on the expedition. This +is a little strong—like the flavour of the cabanes—and +if it were actually so the whole pleasure would be +but small. The camper out arises in the morning +from his delicious couch of soft new-mown hay in +a spotty and sticky condition, attended with considerable +local irritation, and feeling like a person who has +recently had his hair cut, with a pinafore but loosely +tied around his neck. Porters, like barbers, exhibit a +propensity for indulging in garlic immediately before +pursuing their avocation, which is not without discomfort +to their employers. (And here I may note as a +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page66">[pg 66]</span><a name="Pg066" id="Pg066" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>psychological fact that one action of this permeating +vegetable is to induce confidential propensities in the +consumer. The point may be deemed worthy of investigation, +by personal experiment, by botanists and +students of materia medica, men who in the interests +of science are not prone to consider their personal +comfort and finer sensibilities.) Again, in unsettled +weather a fine day is often wasted by journeying up in +the afternoon to some chalet, or hovel, merely to enjoy +the pleasure of returning the following morning in the +rain. There is some force too in the argument that +but little actual time is gained by the first day’s performance, +for it is very difficult to start at anything +like the prearranged hour for departure from a camp. +An immensity of time is always spent in lighting the +morning fire, preparing breakfast, and getting under +way. On the other side, some little time is undoubtedly +saved by discarding the wholly superfluous +ceremony of washing, a process at once suggesting +itself to the mind of the Briton abroad if he beholds a +basin and cold water. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +The sum of the argument would seem to be that +camping out in some one else’s hut is but an unpleasant +fiction; that if the climber chooses to go to the expense, +he can succeed in making himself a trifle less +comfortable in his own tent or under a rock than he +would be in an hotel; and that he is the wisest man who +refrains from bivouacking when it is not really +neces<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page67">[pg 67]</span><a name="Pg067" id="Pg067" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>sary and is able to make the best of matters when it +is: and undoubtedly for many of the recognised +expeditions it is essential to have every possible +minute of spare time in hand. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The Chamouni guide system</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +We were naturally rather doubtful as to the successful +issue of our expedition, at any rate at the first +attempt, and we therefore impressed upon the guides +the necessity of not divulging the plan. The secret, +however, proved to be so big that it was too much for +two, and they imparted consequently so much of the +information as they had not adequate storage for in +their own minds to any who chose to listen. Consequently +our intentions were thoroughly well known +before we started. There were in those days, perhaps, +more good guides, at any rate there were fewer bad +ones, in Chamouni than are to be found nowadays. +We could not, however, obtain the services—even if +we had desired them—of any of the local celebrities. +As a matter of fact, we were both of opinion that a +training in climbing, such as is acquired among the +Oberland and Valais men by chamois hunting and +constant rock work, would be most likely to have +produced the qualities which would undoubtedly be +needed on the aiguilles. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +The question of the efficiency of the Chamouni +guides and of the Chamouni guide system, a question +coeval with mountaineering itself, was burning then +as fiercely as it does now. The Alpine Club had +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page68">[pg 68]</span><a name="Pg068" id="Pg068" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>striven in vain to improve matters; they had pointed +out that ability to answer a kind of mountaineering +catechism did not in itself constitute a very reliable +test of a peasant’s power; they had pointed out too +that the plan of electing a <span class="tei tei-q">“guide chef”</span> from the general +body of guides was one most open to abuse, one +sure to lead to favouritism and injustice, and one +obviously ill calculated to bring to the front any +specially efficient man. But unhappily the regulations +of the body of guides were, and still are, entangled +hopelessly in the French equivalent for red +tape. Jealousy and mistrust of the German-speaking +guides, whom serious mountaineers were beginning to +import in rather formidable numbers, were beginning +to awaken in the simple bosoms of the Savoyard peasants; +and our proceedings were consequently looked +upon with contemptuous disfavour by those who had +any knowledge of our project. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A word on guides</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +On August 18, 1873, we started. Our guides were +Alexander Burgener as leader, Franz Andermatten, +the best of companions, our guide, our friend, and +sometimes our philosopher, as second string, while a +taciturn porter of large frame and small mind, who +came from the Saas valley, completed the tale. Of +Burgener’s exceptional talent in climbing difficult +rocks we had had already good proof, and no doubt +he was, and still is, a man of remarkable daring, +endurance, and activity on rocks. I had reached +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page69">[pg 69]</span><a name="Pg069" id="Pg069" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>then that stage in the mountaineering art at which a +man is prone to consider the guide he knows best as, +beyond all comparison, the best guide that could +possibly exist. The lapse of years renders me perhaps +better able now to form a dispassionate judgment +of Burgener’s capacity and skill. Both were very great. +I have seen at their work most of the leaders in this +department. Burgener never had the marvellous +neatness and finish so characteristic of Melchior +Anderegg, who, when mountaineering has passed +away into the limbo of extinct sports, such as bear-baiting, +croquet, and pell-mell, will, if he gets his +deserts, even by those who remember Maguignaz, +Carrel, Croz, and Almer, still be spoken of as <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">the</span></span> best +guide that ever lived. Nor was Burgener gifted with +the same simple unaffected qualities which made +Jakob Anderegg’s loss so keenly felt, nor the lightness +and agility of Rey or Jaun; but he united well in +himself qualities of strength, carefulness, perseverance +and activity, and possessed in addition the numerous +attributes of observation, experience, and desire for +improvement in his art which together make up what +is spoken of as the natural instinct of guides. These +were the qualities that made him a first-rate, indeed +an exceptional, guide. <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Nunc liberavi animam meam.</span></span> +There is an old saying, involving a sound doctrine, +that +</p> +<div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-left: 2.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> +<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">When you flatter lay it on thick;</div> +<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Some will come off, but a deal will stick.</div> +</div> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-pb" id="page70">[pg 70]</span><a name="Pg070" id="Pg070" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>The porter proved himself a skilful and strong climber, +but he was as silent as an oyster and, like that bivalve +mollusc when the freshness of its youth has passed +off, was perpetually on the gape. +</p> +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A landlord’s peculiarities</span></div></div> +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +A hot walk—it always is hot along this part—took +us up to the Montanvert. The moonlight threw quaint, +fantastic shadows along the path and made the dewy +gossamer filaments which swung from branch to +branch across the track twinkle into grey and silver; +and anything more aggravating than these spiders’ +threads at night it is hard to imagine. What earthly +purpose these animals think they serve by this reckless +nocturnal expenditure of bodily glue it is hard to say: +possibly the lines are swung across in order that they +may practise equilibrium; possibly the threads may +serve as lines of escape and retreat after the male +spinners have been a-wooing. The atmosphere +through the wood was as stuffy as a ship’s saloon in +a storm, and we were right glad to reach the Montanvert +at 3.30 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> Here, being athirst, we clamoured +for refreshment. The landlord of the ramshackle +hostelry at once appeared in full costume; indeed I +observed that during the summer it was impossible to +tell from his attire whether he had arisen immediately +from bed or no. He seemed to act on the principle +of the Norwegian peasant, who apparently undresses +once a year when the winter commences, and resumes +his garments when the light once more comes back +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page71">[pg 71]</span><a name="Pg071" id="Pg071" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>and the summer season sets in. Our friend had +cultivated to great perfection the art of half sleeping +during his waking hours—that is, during such time +as he might be called upon to provide entertainment +for man and beast. Now at the Montanvert, during +the tourists’ season, this period extended over the whole +twenty-four hours. It was necessary, therefore, in +order that he might enjoy a proper physiological period +of rest, for him to remain in a dozing state—a sort +of æstival hybernation—for the whole time, which in +fact he did; or else he was by nature a very dull person, +and had actually a very restricted stock of ideas. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +The landlord produced at once a battered teapot +with a little sieve dangling from its snout, which had +been stewing on the hob, and poured out the contained +fluid into two stalked saucers of inconvenient diameter. +Stimulated by this watery extract, we entered into +conversation together. The sight of a tourist with +an ice axe led by a kind of reflex process to the landlord’s +unburdening his mind with his usual remarks. +Like other natives of the valley he had but two ideas +of <span class="tei tei-q">“extraordinary”</span> expeditions. <span class="tei tei-q">“Monsieur is going +to the Jardin?”</span> he remarked. <span class="tei tei-q">“No, monsieur isn’t.”</span> +<span class="tei tei-q">“Then beyond a doubt monsieur will cross the Col du +Géant?”</span> he said, playing his trump card. <span class="tei tei-q">“No, +monsieur will not.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Pardon—where does monsieur +expect to go to?”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“On the present occasion we go to +try the Aiguille du Dru.”</span> The landlord smiled in an +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page72">[pg 72]</span><a name="Pg072" id="Pg072" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>aggravating manner. <span class="tei tei-q">“Does monsieur think he will +get up?”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Time will show.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Ah!”</span> The landlord, +who had a chronic cold in the head, searched for +his pockethandkerchief, but not finding it, modified +the necessary sniff into one of derision, and then +demanded the usual exorbitant price for the refreshment, +amounting to about five times the value of +the teapot, sieve and all. We paid, and left him +chuckling softly to himself at our insane idea, as he +replaced the teapot on the hob in readiness for the +next arrival. That landlord, though physically sleepy, +was still wide awake in matters of finance. He once +charged me five francs for the loan of a secondhand +collection of holes which he termed a blanket. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">We see a chamois</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +We got on to the glacier at the usual point and made +straight across the slippery hummocks to the grass +slope encircling the base of the Aiguille du Dru and +the Glacier de la Charpoua. The glacier above gives +birth to a feeble meandering little stream which +wanders fitfully down the mountain side. At first we +kept to the left, but after a while crossed the little +torrent, and bearing more to the right plodded +leisurely up the steep grass and rock slope. We had +made good progress when of a sudden Franz gave a +loud whistle and then fell flat down. The other two +guides immediately followed his example and beckoned +to us with excited gesticulations to behave in a +similarly foolish manner. Thereupon we too sat down, +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page73">[pg 73]</span><a name="Pg073" id="Pg073" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>and enquired what the purport of this performance +might be. It turned out that there was a very little +chamois about half a mile off. Knowing that it would +be impossible to induce the guides to move on till the +animal had disappeared, we seized the opportunity of +taking an early breakfast. The guides meanwhile +wriggled about on their stomachs, with eyes starting +out of their heads, possessed by an extraordinary +desire to miss no single movement of the object of +their attention. <span class="tei tei-q">“See, it moves,”</span> said Franz in a +whisper. <span class="tei tei-q">“Himmel! it is feeding,”</span> said Burgener. +<span class="tei tei-q">“It must be the same that Johann saw three weeks +ago.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Ach! no, that was but a little one”</span> (no true +chamois hunter will ever allow that a brother sportsman +can possibly have set eyes on a larger animal +than himself). <span class="tei tei-q">“Truly it is fine.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Thunder weather! +it moves its head.”</span> In their excitement I regretted +that I could not share, not being well versed in +hunting craft: my own experience of sport in the Alps +being limited to missing one marmot that was sitting +on a rock licking its paws. In due course the chamois +walked away. Apparently much relieved by there being +no further necessity to continue in their former uncomfortable +attitudes, the guides sat up and fell to a +warm discussion as to the size of the animal. A +chamois is to a guide as a fish to the baffled angler +or the last new baby to a monthly nurse, and is +always pronounced to be beyond question the finest +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page74">[pg 74]</span><a name="Pg074" id="Pg074" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>that has ever been seen. To this they agreed generally, +but Franz, whose spirits had suddenly evaporated, +now shook his head dismally, with the remark +that it was unlucky to see a single chamois, and that we +should have no success that day. Undaunted by his +croaking, we pursued our way to the right side of the +glacier, while our guide, who had a ballad appropriate +to every occasion, sang rather gaspingly a tremulous +little funeral dirge. We worked well across to the +right, in order to obtain the best possible view of the +Aiguille, and halted repeatedly while discussing the +best point at which to attack the rocks. While thus +engaged in reconnoitring close under the cliffs of the +ridge running between the Aiguille Moine and the +Aiguille Verte, a considerable block of ice, falling from +the rocks above, whizzed past just in front of us and +capered gaily down the slope. Hereupon we came +rather rapidly to the conclusion that we had better +proceed. Half an hour further on we reached the +top of a steep little snow slope, and a point secure +from falling stones and ice. Recognising that we must +soon cross back to the rocks of the Dru, we tried to +come to a final conclusion as to the way to be chosen. +As usual, everybody pointed out different routes: +even a vestry meeting could hardly have been less +unanimous. Some one now ventured to put a question +that had been troubling in reality our minds for some +time past, viz. which of the peaks that towered above +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page75">[pg 75]</span><a name="Pg075" id="Pg075" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>us was really the Aiguille du Dru. On the left there +were two distinct points which, though close together, +were separated apparently by a deep rift, and some +distance to the right of the col which the previous +party had tried to reach, a sharp tooth of rock towered +up to a considerable height. Evidently, however, +from its position this latter needle could not be +visible from Chamouni or from the Montanvert. +Again, it was clear that the mass comprising the two +points close together must be visible from the valley, +but which of the two was the higher? Alexander +gave as his opinion that the more distant of these +two points, that on the right, was the higher, and +turned to the porter for confirmation. That worthy +nodded his head affirmatively with extreme sagacity, +evidently implying that he was of the same opinion. +Franz on the other hand thought the left-hand peak +was the one that we ought to make for, arguing that +it most resembled the Dru as seen from the Montanvert, +that there was probably little difference in height +between the two, that our ascent would not be believed +in unless we were to place a flag on the point visible +from Chamouni, and finally that the left-hand peak +seemed to be the easier, and would probably be found +to conceal the sharper point of the right-hand summit. +Having expressed these views, he in turn looked +towards the porter to ascertain his sentiments. The +porter, who was evidently of a complaisant +tempera<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page76">[pg 76]</span><a name="Pg076" id="Pg076" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>ment, nodded his head very vigorously to intimate +that these arguments seemed the more powerful of +the two to his mind, and then cocked his head on +one side in a knowing manner, intended to express +that he was studying the angles and that he was +prepared to find himself in the right whichever view +prevailed. We did not find out for certain till some +time after that the right-hand summit, though concealed +from view by the Montanvert, is very distinctly +visible from Chamouni: excusable ignorance, as most +of the Chamouni people are unaware of it to this day. +Professor Forbes, as Mr. Douglas Freshfield has kindly +pointed out to me, with his usual accuracy distinguished +and also measured the two summits, giving +their heights respectively as 12,178, and 12,245 feet.<a id="noteref_3" name="noteref_3" href="#note_3"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">3</span></span></a> +Knowing little as we did then of the details of the +mountain, we followed Franz’s advice and made for +the left-hand peak, under the impression that if one +proved accessible the other might also, and there really +seemed no reason why we should not, if occasion +demanded, ascend both. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Doubts as to the peak</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Leading up from the glacier two distinct lines of +attack presented themselves. The right-hand ridge +descends to the col very precipitously, but still we had +some idea that the rocks did not look wholly impossible. +Again, on the left of the Dru the rocks are cut +away very abruptly and form the long precipitous +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page77">[pg 77]</span><a name="Pg077" id="Pg077" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>ridge seen from the Montanvert. This ridge was so +jagged that we could see no possible advantage in +climbing to any part of it, except just at the termination +where it merges into the south-western face of the +main mountain. The choice therefore, in our judgment, +lay between storming the mountain by the face +right opposite to us or else making for the col and the +right-hand ridge; but the latter was the route that +Messrs. Pendlebury and Kennedy had followed, and we +could not hope to succeed where such giants had failed. +Burgener indeed wished to try, but the rest of the +party were unanimously in favour of attempting to +find a way up the face, a route that at the worst had +the merit of novelty. We thought too that if a +closer acquaintance proved that the crags were ill +arranged for upward locomotion, we might be able to +work round on the face and so reach the col by a +more circuitous route. With the naked eye—especially +a myopic one—the rocks appeared unpromising +enough; while viewed through the telescope the rocks +looked utterly impossible. But little faith, however, can +be rested in telescopic observations of a mountain, so +far as the question of determining a route is concerned. +Amateurs, who, as a rule, understand the use of a telescope +much better than guides, have not the requisite +experience to determine the value of what they see, +while but few guides see enough to form any basis for +determination. Moreover, the instrument we carried +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page78">[pg 78]</span><a name="Pg078" id="Pg078" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>with us, though it had an extraordinary number of +sections and pulled out like the ill-fated tradesman’s +trousers in a pantomime, was not a very remarkable +one in the matter of definition. Still it is always proper +and orthodox to look at a new peak through the telescope, +and we were determined not to neglect any +formality on the present occasion. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Telescopic observations</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +We were now rather more than half-way up the +Glacier de la Charpoua. To reach the most promising-looking +point at which we might hope to get on the +rocks, it was necessary to travel straight across the +snow at about the level on which we stood. Now, +this Glacier de la Charpoua is not constructed on +ordinary principles. Instead of the orthodox transverse +bergschrund it possesses a longitudinal crack +running up its whole length, a peculiarity that vexed +us hugely. Half a dozen times did we attempt to cross +by some tempting-looking bridge, but on each occasion +we were brought to a stand by impassable crevasses; +then had to turn back, go up a little farther, and try +again. It was already late in the day and we could ill +spare the time lost in this to and fro movement. +Eventually we reached a little patch of rocks not far +from the head of the glacier. No sooner had we reached +these rocks than the guides hunted up a suitable place +and concealed some utterly worthless property as carefully +as if they expected evil-minded marauders to be +wandering about, seeking what they might pilfer. +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page79">[pg 79]</span><a name="Pg079" id="Pg079" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>Having effected the cache with due care, Franz once +again burst into a strange carol, the burden of which +was unintelligible, but the chorus made frequent +allusion to <span class="tei tei-q">“der Teufel.”</span> We now saw that, after all, +the only feasible plan would be to cut our way still +higher up a steep slope, and thus to work right round, +describing a large curve. An occasional step required +to be scraped, for the glacier is in shadow till late in +the morning, owing to the Aiguille Verte intervening +and cutting off the sun’s rays. Throughout the day +our second guide had been burning with a desire to +exhibit the good qualities of the most portentous ice +axe I ever saw, an instrument of an unwieldy character +resembling a labourer’s pick on the top of a +May pole. Its dimensions were monstrous and its +weight preposterous: moreover, the cutting spike had +an evil curve and, instead of hewing out blocks of ice +neatly, preferred to ram a huge hole in the slope and +stick fast therein, while a quiver ran through its +mighty frame and communicated itself to the striker, +who shuddered at each blow as after taking a dose of +very bitter physic. However, Franz was so proud of +his halberd that we were obliged to sacrifice rapid +progress to the consideration of his feelings, and he +was accordingly sent on to cut the steps which were +now found necessary. With no little exertion did he +construct a staircase of which the steps were about the +size of foot baths, and with no slight impatience did +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page80">[pg 80]</span><a name="Pg080" id="Pg080" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>we watch his gymnastics and athletic flourishes, which +were a sort of mixture of tossing the caber and throwing +the hammer combined with a touch of polo. +Ultimately we were able to quit the glacier for the +actual face of the mountain, at a point probably not +very much below that struck by the previous party; +but it was our intention at once to bear off to the left. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Franz and his mighty axe</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +We blundered a little on the rocks at first after +the long spell of snow-walking. A cry from Franz +caused us to look round, and we perceived that he +had got entangled with the big axe, the spike of which +was sticking into the third button of his waistcoat, +causing him, as the strain on the rope above and +below folded him up in a rather painful manner, to +assume the attitude of a mechanical toy monkey on a +stick. Fearing that he might be placed in the condition +in which cats’ meat is usually offered for sale, we +slackened the rope and saved him from impending +perforation, but with the result that the axe bounded +off down the slope, turned two or three summersaults, +and then stuck up defiantly in a distant patch of snow, +looking like a sign-post. While Franz went off to recover +his loved treasure we huddled together on a very +little ledge of rock, and sat there in a row like busts +on a shelf—if the simile be not considered anatomically +inappropriate. But these delays had wasted +much time, and already success seemed doubtful. +Little time could now be devoted to consultation, and +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page81">[pg 81]</span><a name="Pg081" id="Pg081" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>little good would have come of it; now that we were +on the rocks the only thing to do was to go straight +on and see what would happen. At the same time we +had a dim consciousness that we were considerably to +the right of the best line of ascent. Our <span class="tei tei-q">“general +idea”</span>—to borrow a military phrase of which, by the +way, it may be remarked that the idea in question is +usually confined to the general and is not shared in +by the troops—consisted in making for the left-hand +side or Montanvert aspect of the final peak. We set +our teeth, whatever that may mean, then fell to with +a will and for some two hours went with scarcely a +check. And a rare two hours’ climb we had. The +very thought of it makes the pen travel swiftly over +the paper, as the scene comes back in every detail. +How Burgener led the way without hesitation and +almost without mistake; how our second guide chattered +unceasingly, caring nought for a listener; how +they both stuck to the rocks like limpets; how the big +axe got in everybody’s way; how the rope got caught +on every projecting spur of rock, jerking back the unwary, +or when loose sweeping down showers of small +angular stones from the little platforms and ridges, +thereby engendering ill blood and contumely; how +the silent porter climbed stolidly after us, and in the +plenitude of his taciturn good-humour poked at us +from below with his staff at inconvenient moments +and in sensitive places; how at one moment we were +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page82">[pg 82]</span><a name="Pg082" id="Pg082" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>flat against the rock, all arms and legs, like crushed +spiders, and at another gathered into great loops like +a cheese maggot on the point of making a leap; how +a volley of little stones came whistling cheerily down +from above, playfully peppering us all round; how +our spirits rose with our bodies till we became as +excited as children: of all these things it boots not to +give any detailed description. Those who can recollect +similar occasions need but to be reminded of them, +and, to tell the truth, the minutiæ, though they are +so graven upon the mind that a clear impression could +be struck off years afterwards, are apt to prove somewhat +tedious. Two facts I may note. One, that the +rocks were at first very much easier than was expected; +another, that we should have done better had we discarded +the rope on this part of the climb: the rocks +were hardly a fit place for those who could not dispense +with its use. Ever and anon the guides’ spirits would +rise to that level which may be called the shouting +point, and they would jödel till they were black in the +face, while the melodious roll of sound echoed cheerily +back from the distant cliffs of the Aiguille Moine. +And so we journeyed up. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A start in the wrong direction</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Meanwhile the weather had changed; black +clouds had come rolling up and were gathering +ominously above us; it was evident that we had no +chance of reaching the summit that day, even if it +were practicable, but still we persevered desperately +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page83">[pg 83]</span><a name="Pg083" id="Pg083" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>in the hope of seeing some possible route for a future +attack. Progress, however, on a rock peak is necessarily +slow when there are five on the rope, and we +should probably have done more wisely if we had +divided into two parties. We kept well to the left to +a point on the face where a huge tower of rock stands +four-square to all the winds of heaven that blow; and +above us, as a matter of fact, there seemed to be a +good many winds. This landmark, very conspicuous +and characteristic of these aiguilles, seemed to be +close to the ridge, but on reaching it we found that +there was still a stiff passage intervening between us +and the point from which we could overlook the other +side of the mountain. Now we bore to the right and +the climbing became more difficult. We made our +way straight up a very shallow gully and finally +reached a point on the western ridge overlooking +the Montanvert, close to where this ridge merges into +the corresponding face of the peak. Here a halt was +called, for two reasons. In the first place a few flakes +of snow were softly falling around and the gathering +clouds betokened more to follow. Secondly, so far as +we could judge through the mist, it was apparently impossible +to ascend any higher from the place we had +reached. So we cast off the rope and clambered separately +to various points of vantage to survey the work +that lay before us. The summit of the peak, enveloped +in thin cloud, appeared to tower no great height above +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page84">[pg 84]</span><a name="Pg084" id="Pg084" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>us, but we were too close under the cliff to estimate its +elevation very correctly. At the time we thought that +if we could only keep up the pace at which we had been +going, an hour’s climb would have sufficed to reach +the top. We found, it may be remarked parenthetically, +that we were egregiously in error in this +estimate some years later. The shifting clouds made +the rock face—that is, the small extent of it that we +could see at all—look much more difficult than in +all probability it actually was. Through the mists we +made out, indistinctly, a formidable-looking irregular +crack in the rock face running very straight up and +rather to our left, which apparently constituted the +only possible route from our position to a higher level. +But from where we stood we could not have reached +the lower end of this crack without a ladder of about +fifty feet in length, and the mist entirely prevented us +from judging whether we could reach it by a détour. +The choice lay between hunting for some such line or +else in trying what seemed on the whole more practicable, +viz. working round by the north-east face again, +so as to search for a more easy line of ascent. +But the latter alternative would have involved of +necessity a considerable descent. While we debated +what course to take the mists swept up thicker and +thicker from below, and in a moment the peak above +us was concealed and all the view cut off. A +piercingly cold wind began to rise and a sharp storm +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page85">[pg 85]</span><a name="Pg085" id="Pg085" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>of hail and sleet descended. Hints were dropped +about the difficulty of descending rocks glazed over +with ice with a proper amount of deliberation. It +was obviously impossible to go up and might soon become +very difficult to go down. The question was not +actually put, but, in conformity with what was evidently +the general sense of the meeting, we somewhat reluctantly +made up our minds to return. A dwarf stone +man was constructed, the rope readjusted, and half an +hour’s descent put us out of the mist and snow. We +stopped again and stared upwards blankly at the leve +line of mist hanging heavily against the peak. +Burgener now came forward with a definite resolution +and proposed that we should stay where we were for +the night and try again the next day. This was referred +to a sub-committee, who reported against the +suggestion on the ground that the stock of provisions +left consisted of a tablespoonful of wine, four rolls, +and a small piece of cheese which had strayed from +the enveloping paper in the porter’s pocket and as a +consequence smelt of tobacco and was covered with hairs +and fluff. These articles of diet were spread on a +rock and we mentally calculated the exact proportion +that would fall to each man’s share if we attempted, +as proposed, to subsist on them for a day and a half. +But little deliberation was required. We decided at +once to return. The porter gathered the fragments +lovingly together and replaced them with other curious +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page86">[pg 86]</span><a name="Pg086" id="Pg086" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>articles in his side pocket. By 8.30 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span> we were back +at Chamouni, having been out a little under twenty +hours. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">An adjournment</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +A day or two later we made up our minds to start +once more. Great preparations were made for an +early departure, the idea that we should find it +distasteful to start at the hour at which a London +ball begins being scouted, as it usually is over-night. +We impressed on an intelligent <span class="tei tei-q">“boots”</span> with great +earnestness the absolute necessity of waking us precisely +at midnight, and then went to our repose, feeling +about as much inclined for sleep as a child does during +the afternoon siesta intended to prepare it for the +glories of a pantomime. The <span class="tei tei-q">“boots”</span> did not fail; in +fact he was extra-punctual, as our departure was the +signal for his retiring. At midnight the party +assembled in the little courtyard in front of the hotel, +but a dismal sight met our gaze. Under the influence +of a warm sou’-wester, thick black clouds had filled the +valley, and a gentle drizzle reminded us of the balmy +climate of our own metropolis in November. Our Alpine +tour for the season was nearly at an end, and we gazed +despondently around. Ultimately one practical person +suggested that if we did not go to the mountain we +might as well go to bed, and the practical person +endorsed his suggestion by walking off. A scurvy +practical joke did the clerk of the weather play on us +that night. In the morning the bright sunbeams +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page87">[pg 87]</span><a name="Pg087" id="Pg087" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>came streaming in through the window, the sky was +cloudless and the outline of every peak was sharply +defined in the clear air. A more perfect morning for +the expedition could hardly have been chosen. Some +ill-timed remarks at breakfast referring pointedly to +people who talk a good deal over-night about early +starts, and the deep concern of the <span class="tei tei-q">“boots”</span> at our +presumed slothfulness, goaded us to desperation. We +determined to start again and to have one more try +the next day whatever the weather might prove to be. +Once more we found ourselves in the small hours of +the morning on the path leading to Les Ponts. Had +it not been for the previous day’s lesson we should +probably have turned back from this point, for the +whole of the mountain opposite was concealed in thick +drifting mist. The guides flatly refused to go on as +matters stood. We were determined on our side not +to give it up, and so a compromise was effected. It +was agreed to wait for an hour or two and see if +matters mended. So we stretched ourselves out on a +damp sloping rock, prepared to resume our journey +at the slightest indication of a change for the better. +Rest at such a time even under these hard, not to say +stony, conditions is seductive, and, as we lay half +dozing, strange heretical thoughts came crowding into +the mind. Why toil up this mountain when one can +rest in luxury on these knobby rocks? Why labour over +the shifting moraine, the deceitful glacier, the slippery +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page88">[pg 88]</span><a name="Pg088" id="Pg088" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>rock? What is the good of it all? Can it be vanity +or——<span class="tei tei-q">“Vorwärts!”</span> The dream vanished as the cheery +cry broke out from the guide engaged on outpost duty, +and as we rose and stretched ourselves the whole +aspect of affairs seemed changed. A distinct break +in the clouds at the head of the Mer de Glace gave +promise of better things in store, and we felt almost +guilty of having wasted an hour or more at our halt. +The break became larger and larger, and before long +the great cloud banks resolved into one huge streamer +flying from the summit of the peak. I fancy that, at +any rate in the early stages of mountaineering, many +good chances are thrown away on such days, for +guides are as a rule somewhat prone to despondency +in the early morning hours. Once started, however, +they became wondrously keen, complained of our +delay, and even asserted with some effrontery that +they had predicted fine weather all the time, and this +without a blush; still some one rather neatly defined +blushing as a suffusion least seldom seen in those who +have the most occasion for it, and guides share with +politicians a certain power of manipulating their +opinions to suit the exigencies of the moment. The +traces of our former attempt assisted us materially +on the glacier. Our plan of attack consisted in getting +on the rocks at our former point, but working on this +occasion much more directly up the face. Burgener +conceived that by following this line of assault we +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page89">[pg 89]</span><a name="Pg089" id="Pg089" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>should be able to ascend, by means of a gully which +existed only in his own imagination, to a more practicable +part of the peak. Between the two summits +of the Aiguille du Dru may be seen, at any rate in +photographs, a tempting-looking streak of snow: it +seemed possible, if we could once reach the lower +point of this streak, to follow its line upwards. The +lower peak of the Dru is well rounded on its eastern +face, and the rocks appear more broken than in other +parts of the mountain. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The expedition resumed</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +If we could but once reach the cleft between the +peaks there seemed every chance of our being able to +reach the lower summit. At the outset progress was +fast. We followed our former line till we were in sight +of the rock tower and then at once bore off to the right. +The climbing was rather more difficult, at least it +seemed so to us in those days, than on the other part +of the mountain with which we had previously made +acquaintance. A series of short flat gullies had to be +climbed, but there were exceedingly few inequalities to +help us. The rope was of little or no use and might +perhaps have been laid aside with advantage. We +soon found that we had reached a higher point than +at our previous attempt, and as the leader constantly +returned favourable reports our spirits rose; so elated +in fact did we become that the exact formalities to be +observed on reaching the top were seriously discussed +whenever the occasion offered for conversation, which +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page90">[pg 90]</span><a name="Pg090" id="Pg090" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>was not very often. Old Franz chattered away to +himself, as was his wont when matters went well, and +on looking back on one occasion I perceived the +strange phenomenon of a smile illuminating the +porter’s features. Howbeit, this worthy spake no +words of satisfaction, but pulled ever at his empty pipe. +By dint of wriggling over a smooth sloping stone slab +we had got into a steep rock gully which promised to +lead us to a good height. Burgener, assisted by much +pushing and prodding from below and aided on his +own part by much snorting and some strong language, +had managed to climb on to a great overhanging +boulder that cut off the view from the rest of the +party below. As he disappeared from sight we +watched the paying out of the rope with as much +anxiety as a fisherman eyes his vanishing line when +the salmon runs. Presently the rope ceased to move +and we waited for a few moments in suspense. We +felt that the critical moment of the expedition had +arrived, and the fact that our own view was exceedingly +limited made us all the more anxious to hear the +verdict. <span class="tei tei-q">“How does it look?”</span> we called out. The +answer came back in patois, a bad sign in such emergencies. +For a minute or two an animated conversation +was kept up; then we decided to take another opinion +and accordingly hoisted up our second guide. The +chatter was redoubled. <span class="tei tei-q">“What does it look like?”</span> we +shouted again. <span class="tei tei-q">“Not possible from where we are,”</span> +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page91">[pg 91]</span><a name="Pg091" id="Pg091" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>was the melancholy answer, and in a tone that crashed +at once all our previous elation. I could not find +words at the moment to express my disappointment: +but the porter could and gallantly he came to the +rescue. He opened his mouth for the first time and +spoke, and he said very loud indeed that it was +<span class="tei tei-q">“verdammt.”</span> Precisely: that is just what it was. +Having made this short speech, the porter allowed the +smile to fade away from his features, shook out some +imaginary ashes and proceeded to light some visionary +tobacco, sucking at a lighted match through the +medium of an empty pipe. It seemed hard to believe +at first that we were to be baulked when so near the +summit, and it was not till the guides had tried again +and again to storm the almost vertical wall of smooth +rock and had shown the utter impossibility of turning +it either right or left, that we felt we were really +beaten. One more forlorn chance remained: we +might try the west face of the mountain from the +spot we had reached at our first attempt, when the +weather had prevented us from making any further +progress. Had there been more time at our disposal +we should have done better to try another line of +ascent more to our right, that is, nearer to the col, +and it might be possible to reach the cleft between the +two summits by this means. As for the snow streak +which looked so tempting at a distance, it is a delusion +and a snare, if the latter term be applicable to a place +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page92">[pg 92]</span><a name="Pg092" id="Pg092" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>which appears to be much more difficult to get into +than it probably would be to get out of. We had +already pretty fully realised that the mountain was +more difficult to ascend than we had ever contemplated, +and it seemed advisable at the moment to make for +some definite point which at any rate we felt sure of +reaching and to study the peak in detail to the best of +our ability; so we made towards our cairn, though +with little hope of gaining much knowledge thereby. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A sticking point</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Without much difficulty, but not without some +little danger from falling stones (though on the whole, +the mountain is remarkably free from these annoyances, +there being as a matter of fact but few loose +stones to fall), we reached our former point and were +able to judge distinctly of how much higher we had +reached at our second attempt. We saw also that upward +progress from the point on which we stood would +not be possible, but it must be remembered that we were +able only to see a small strip of the mountain lying +directly above. Every crag that was not absolutely +vertical appeared to overhang, and the few small cracks +that might have afforded hand and foot hold led nowhere +in particular. Altogether the view was depressing +although limited. There was no time to hunt about +for other routes, or we should certainly have done so, +for we felt that though beaten our discomfiture only +arose from the fact that we had chosen a wrong line +of ascent. Possibly within a few yards of us lay a +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page93">[pg 93]</span><a name="Pg093" id="Pg093" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>feasible route, but we knew not on which side it might +be. Here it occurred to the porter for the first time +that his pipe was empty and had been so all day: he +thereupon made his second remark, which consisted +in an audible request for something to put in it. We +had dragged up with us (as a matter of fact the +porter had carried it the whole time) some 200 feet of +rope, thinking it might help us in the descent, but the +part of the mountain on which we were presents no +more difficulties in this respect than does Avernus. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Beaten back</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Arrived on the snow slope opposite the rock face +on which we had been climbing during the day, we +stopped, extended the telescope, and tried to make +out our exact line, and endeavoured also to discover +what had been our error; no easy task, as any persons +of experience will admit. At any time the appearance +of this peak is deceptive, and the outline no more +guides you to a knowledge of the natural details than +does the outline of a fashionable lady’s dress. But +as we looked the mountain seemed flattened out by +reason of a blue evening mist which obscured all +the irregularities. So we turned and resumed our +journey down, running hard across the Mer de Glace, +for the shades of night drew on apace, and reached +Chamouni at 8.30 in the evening, leaving the guides +at the Montanvert with half a bottle of thin red wine +between three of them. We were overtaken by Edouard +Cupelin, one of the best of the Chamouni guides, at +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page94">[pg 94]</span><a name="Pg094" id="Pg094" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>any rate on rock mountains, on our way down, and he +gave us a rather sensational account of his own adventures +on the peak. In justice to him it should +be mentioned that he was almost the only Chamouni +guide who seemed to think the ascent possible, and in +his opinion the general line that we had adopted was +the correct one. Our second expedition thus from first +to last occupied about 20½ hours, but the halts were not +nearly so numerous as on the first occasion. The +experience of our two days’ climbing led us to the +conclusion that Cupelin was right. From the peculiar +character of the rocks and the fact that our +climbing lay chiefly along short flat gullies we were +unable, as already remarked, to get a very clear idea +of any part of the mountain except that on which +we were actually engaged, and we were led to the +opinion that the only plan to find a possible route +would consist in trying in succession from below the +different parts of the southern face. The final peak, +which from this side shoots up clearly defined from +the great mass of the mountain, seemed to us tolerably +easy of ascent provided one could reach the +base. A sort of depression extends three parts of the +way round, and the edge of this shallow moat appeared +to be defended by an inaccessible belt of vertical +rock. The actual rocks were wholly unlike any met with +elsewhere in our experience. Great vertical slabs were +fitted together with an accuracy which was beautiful +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page95">[pg 95]</span><a name="Pg095" id="Pg095" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>in its perfection, but irritating beyond conception to +the climber. Progress upwards, when above the level +of the col, necessitated a series of fatiguing gymnastics +like swimming uphill, but the rocks where +they were possible proved invariably firm and good. +On both occasions we were stopped by sheer difficulty +and probably saw the mountain at its very best. The +snow on the rocks, which proved such a formidable +difficulty to Mr. Pendlebury’s party, had almost entirely +disappeared before our assault. The rocks were +warm and the weather on the second day was perfect. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Results gained</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Such is the history of our first two attempts to +climb this mountain. They served but to whet our +appetite for success, but it was not till years after that +we were fortunate enough to meet with that success. +</p> + +</div><hr class="page" /><div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page96">[pg 96]</span><a name="Pg096" id="Pg096" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> +<a name="toc11" id="toc11"></a> + <a name="pdf12" id="pdf12"></a> +<h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"><span style="font-size: 173%">CHAPTER IV.</span></h1> + +<h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"><span style="font-size: 144%">A DAY ACROSS COUNTRY</span></h1> + +<div class="tei tei-argument" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em"><p class="tei tei-p" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 0.90em"><span style="font-size: 90%"> +The art of meteorological vaticination—The climate we leave our +homes for—Observations in the valley—The diligence arrives +and shoots its load—Types of travellers—The Alpine habitué—The +elderly spinster on tour—A stern Briton—A family party—We +seek fresh snow-fields—The Bietschhorn—A </span><a name="corr096" id="corr096" class="tei tei-anchor" style="text-align: center"></a><span class="tei tei-corr" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 90%">sepulchral</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%"> +bivouac—On early starts and their curious effects on the temperament—A +choice of routes—A deceptive ice gully—The +avalanches on the Bietschhorn—We work up to a dramatic +situation—The united party nearly fall out—A limited panorama—A +race for home—Caught out—A short cut—Driven to extremities—The +water jump—An aged person comes to the rescue—A +classical banquet at Ried—The old curé and his hospitality—A +wasted life? +</span></p></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +The summer season of 1878 was one of the worst +on record. Meteorologists, by a species of climatic +paradox, might have had a fine time of it; mountaineers +had a most wet and disagreeable time of it. +The weather prophets easily established a reputation +for infallibility—according to the accepted modern +standard of vaticination—by predicting invariably +evil things. They were thus right five times out of +six, which will readily be acknowledged as very creditable +in persons who were uninspired, save by a desire +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page97">[pg 97]</span><a name="Pg097" id="Pg097" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>to exalt themselves in the eyes of their fellow tourists. +But, as in the case of that singularly hopeful person +Tantalus, the torture was rendered more artistic and +aggravating by sporadic promise of better things. +One day the rock aiguilles were powdered over and +white-speckled with snow. The climber looked up +longingly at the heights above, but visions of +numbing cold and frost-bitten fingers caused him to +thrust the latter members into his pockets and turn +away with a sigh, to put it mildly, and avert his gaze +from the chilling spectacle. Then would he follow his +daily practice—his thrice-a-daily practice in all probability—of +overeating himself. Perhaps, while still +engaged at <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">table d’hôte</span></span> in consuming, at any rate in +masticating, the multiform dish generically named +<span class="tei tei-q">“chevreuil,”</span> the glow of a rosy sunset, and the hope +of brighter things in store for the morrow, would +attract him to the window. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Autres temps, autres mœurs</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +The next day would produce scorching heat, a clear +sky, a rising barometer, and a revival of spirits; diet, as +the physicians say, as before. The powdered snow would +disappear off the ledges and, melting, distribute itself +more uniformly over the rocks, which as a result presented +a shining appearance, as the morning face of a +schoolboy or the Sunday face of a general servant. At +night a clear sky and a sharp frost in the high regions, +and the next day the mountain would be more impossible +than ever. Still, recognising that another few hours +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page98">[pg 98]</span><a name="Pg098" id="Pg098" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>of grateful sunshine would cause the thin film of ice +glazing the rocks to melt and evaporate, the energetic +climber (and we were very energetic that year) would +summon his guides and all his resolution, pack up his +traps, and start for a bivouac up aloft, to return, in all +probability, at the end of twenty-four hours, in a downfall +of rain and in the condition of steamy moisture so +tersely described by Mr. Mantalini. Such, during July +1878, was our lot day after day in the glorious Alpine +climate. We paced up and down, with the regularity +of sentries, between our camp on the Aiguille du Dru +and Couttet’s hotel at Chamouni. Occasionally we +ascended some distance up the Glacier de la Charpoua +and took observations. Once or twice we proceeded +far enough on the rocks of the Aiguille du Dru to +prove the impossibility of ascending them to any +great height. Still we were loth to depart and run +the risk of losing a favourable opportunity of assaulting +the mountain with any chance of success. It fell +out thus that we had good opportunities of observing +our fellow creatures and the various types of travellers +who, notwithstanding the weather, still crowded into +Chamouni; for it was only on rock peaks such as the +Aiguille du Dru, or difficult mountains like the +Aiguille Verte, that climbing was impossible. This +condition of things did not affect to any very +appreciable extent the perambulating peasants who +constitute the vast majority of the body known as +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page99">[pg 99]</span><a name="Pg099" id="Pg099" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>guides in Chamouni. These worthies merely loafed a +little more than they were wont to do, if that be +possible. Perhaps the gathering invariably to be +found, during twenty hours out of the twenty-four, +at the cross roads near Tairraz’s shop was still more +numerously attended, and there was some slight increase +in the number of sunburnt individuals who +found intellectual exercise sufficient to apologise for +their existence in wearing their hands in their pockets, +smoking indifferent tobacco, expectorating indiscriminately, +and uttering statements devoid of sense or +point to anybody who cared to listen. The weather +had no effect on them; whether wet or dry, cold or +warm, they still occupied themselves from June to +September in the same manner. Once in the early +morning, and once again about five o’clock in the +evening, were they momentarily galvanised out of their +listlessness by the arriving and departing diligences. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The diligence arrives</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +On the arrival of the caravan the contingent was +usually reinforced by some of our own countrymen. +The proper attitude for the English visitor at +Chamouni to assume, when watching the evening +incursion of tourists, consisted in leaning against the +wall on the south side of the street, and so to pose +himself as to indicate independence of the proceedings +and to wear an expression of indifference tinged with +a suggestion of cynical humour. This was usually +accomplished by wearing the hands in the pockets, +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page100">[pg 100]</span><a name="Pg100" id="Pg100" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>tilting the hat a little over the eyes, crossing the legs, +and laughing unduly at the remarks of companions, +whether audible or not. Some few considered that +smoking a wooden pipe assisted the realisation of the +effect intended: others apparently held that a heavy +object held in the mouth interfered with the expression. +I have observed that these same onlookers were bitterly +indignant at the ordeal they had to pass through on +returning to their native shores viâ Folkestone, when +clambering wearily with leaden eyes and sage-green +complexions up the pier steps. Yet the diligence +travellers, begrimed with dust, stung of horse flies, +cramped, choked, and so jolted that they recognised +more bony prominences than previous anatomical +knowledge had ever led them to expect they possessed, +were none the less objects of pity. Still human nature +is always worthy of study, and those who arrived, +together with those who went to see them arrive, were +equally interesting under the depressing climatic influences +which so often forbade us to take our pleasure +elsewhere. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The Alpine habitue</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +It was curious to note how, day after day, the diligence +on its arrival released from the cramped thraldom +of its uncomfortable seats almost exactly the same +load. As the great lumbering yellow vehicle came +within sight, one or two familiar faces would be seen +craning out to catch the first sight of an old guide or +mountain friend. These <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">habitués</span></span> as a rule secured +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page101">[pg 101]</span><a name="Pg101" id="Pg101" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>for themselves the corner seats. We knew exactly +what their luggage would be. A bundle of axes like +Roman <span class="tei tei-q">“fasces”</span> would be handed out first, with perhaps +a little unnecessary ostentation, followed by a coil +of rope which might have been packed up in the portmanteau, +but usually was not; then a knapsack, with +marks on the back like a map of the continent of +America if the owner was an old hand, and a spotless +minute check if he were only trying to look like +one. The owners of the knapsacks would be clad in +suits that once were dittos, flannel shirts and the +familiar British wide-awake, the new aspirants for +mountaineering fame decorating their head gear with +snow spectacles purchased in Geneva. Very business-like +would they show themselves in collecting their +luggage before anybody else; then, with a knowing +look at the mountains, they would make their way +to Couttet’s. Next, perhaps, would follow a party of +some two or three spinsters travelling alone and as +uncertain about their destination as they were of their +age. To attract such, some of the hotel proprietors, +more astute than their fellows, despatched to the +scene of action porters of cultivated manners and +obsequious demeanour, who seldom failed, by proving +themselves to be <span class="tei tei-q">“such nice polite men, my dear,”</span> +to ensnare the victims. Burdened with the numerous +parcels and odd little bags this class of traveller +greatly affects, the nicely mannered porter would lead +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page102">[pg 102]</span><a name="Pg102" id="Pg102" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the way to the hotel or pension, probably bestowing, +as he passed, a wink on some friend among the guides, +who recognised at once the type of tourist that would +inevitably visit the Montanvert, probably the Chapeau +and possibly the Flégère, and recognising too the type +in whom judicious compliments were not likely to be +invested without satisfactory results. Such people +invariably enquired if they could not be taken <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">en +pension</span></span>. Somewhat frugal as regards diet, especially +breakfast, but with astounding capacities for swallowing +<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">table d’hôte</span></span> dinners or such romance as the +guides might be pleased to invent on the subject of +their own prowess and exploits. Charming old ladies +these often were, as pleased with the novelty of everything +they saw around them as a gutter child in a +country meadow. Their nature changes marvellously +in the Alps. Scarcely should we recognise in the +small wiry traveller in the mountains the same individual +whom we might meet in town—say in the +neighbourhood of Bloomsbury. I have noticed such +a one not a hundred miles from there whose energy +for sight-seeing when in the Alps surpassed all belief. +Yet here she seemed but a little, wrinkled, bent-in-the-back +old woman, flat of foot, reckless at crossings, +finding difficulty on Sunday mornings in fishing a +copper out of her reticule for the crossing sweeper, by +reason of the undue length of the finger-tips to her +one-buttoned black kid gloves, and accompanied on +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page103">[pg 103]</span><a name="Pg103" id="Pg103" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>week days, perhaps for the sake of contrast, by a +sprightly little black and tan dog of so arrogant a +disposition that it declined to use in walking all the +legs which Providence had furnished it. Next, +perhaps, the British paterfamilias, who might or might +not be a clergyman, most intractable of tourists; ever +prone to combine instruction with amusement for the +benefit of his bored family, slightly relaxing on week +days, but rigid and austere on Sundays beyond conception. +And then the foreign sub-Alpine walker or +<span class="tei tei-q">“intrépide,”</span> clad in special garments of local make +and highly vaunted efficiency, garrulous, smoky, +voracious, a trifle greasy, and dealing habitually in +ecstatic hendecasyllables expressive of admiration of +everything he saw. Next the family party, possibly +with a courier, with whom the younger members were, +as a rule, unduly familiar: the boys wearing tailed +shooting coats, consorting but ill with Eton turn-down +collars, groaning under the burden of green baize bags +containing assorted guide books, strange receptacles +for the umbrellas of the party, and with leathern +wallets slung around their shoulders, stuffed with the +useless articles boys cherish and love to carry with +them; the girls awkwardly conscious and feeling ill +at ease by reason of the practical dresses, boots, and +head gear devised for them at home, looking tenderly +after a collection of weakly sticks tipped with chamois +horns and decorated with a spirally arranged list of +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page104">[pg 104]</span><a name="Pg104" id="Pg104" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>localities; the whole party in an excessively bad +temper, which the boys exhibited by pummelling and +thumping when <span class="tei tei-q">“pa”</span> was not looking and the girls +by little sniffs, head tossings, and pointed remarks at +each other that they had no idea what guys they +looked. It will be observed that the constant bad +weather induced a cynical condition of mind. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A family party</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +We made up our minds, notwithstanding the +attractions of this varied company, to quit them for +a while, to seek fresh snow-fields and glaciers new, +and to leave the rocks of the Aiguille du Dru for a +time unmolested. At the suggestion of Jaun we betook +ourselves to the Oberland for a contemplated +ascent of the Bietschhorn by a new route. Under a +tropical sun we made our way by the interminable +zigzags through the Trient valley down to Vernayaz, +where we met again, like the witches in <span class="tei tei-q">“Macbeth,”</span> in +thunder and in rain. Our project was to ascend the +Bietschhorn from the Visp side and descend it by the +usual route to Ried. This form of novelty had become +so common in mountaineering that a new word had +been coined expressly to describe such expeditions, +and the climber, if he succeeded in his endeavour, was +said to have <span class="tei tei-q">“colled”</span> the peak. The phrase, however, +was only admissible on the first occasion, and it was +subsequently described by any who followed, in more +prosaic terms, as going up one side and down the other. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A sepulchral bivouac</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +We did not experience any unusual difficulty in +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page105">[pg 105]</span><a name="Pg105" id="Pg105" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>leaving Visp tolerably early in the morning. The +chorus of frogs, who were in remarkably fine voice +that night in the neighbouring swamps, kept us +awake, and the proper musical contrast was provided +by the alto humming of some hungry mosquitoes. +Our plan of assault was to camp somewhere at the +head of the Baltschieder Thal, which is a dreary stony +valley with only a few huts that would scarcely be +considered habitable even by a London slum-landlord. +The living inhabitants appeared to consist of three +unkempt children, two pigs, one imbecile old man, +and a dog with a fortuitous family. On the whole, +therefore, we came to the conclusion that nature +would probably provide better accommodation than +the local architectural art, and a short search revealed +a most luxurious bivouac, close to the left moraine of +the Baltschieder Glacier, under the shelter of the +Fäschhorn and a little above the level of the ice fall. +A huge, flat slab of rock formed the roof of a wedge-shaped +cavity capable of holding at least six persons, +if disposed in a horizontal position. The space between +the floor and the roof, it is true, was not much +more than three feet; but the chamber, though well +sheltered, demanded no ventilating tubes to ensure a +proper supply of fresh air. Having a little spare time +and being luxuriously inclined, we decided to sleep on +spring beds. First we swept the stone floor, then +covered it with a thick layer of dry rhododendron +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page106">[pg 106]</span><a name="Pg106" id="Pg106" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>branches, over which were laid large sods of dried +peat grass, and the beds were complete. The pointed +ends of the twigs showed rather a tendency to penetrate +through the grassy covering during the night, +but otherwise the mattresses were all that could be +desired. About two in the morning we got up—that +is, we would have got up had it not been physically +impossible to do so by reason of the lowness of the +roof. A more correct expression would be perhaps to +say that we turned out, rolling from under the shelter +of the slab one after another. By the dim light of an +ineffective candle, poked into the neck of a broken +bottle, we found it no easy matter to collect all the +articles which the guides had of course unpacked +and stowed away as if they were going to stay a week; +indeed, a certain bottle of seltzer water will probably +still be found—at any rate the bottle will—by anyone +who seeks repose in the same quarters. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">On early starts</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +We started in the usual frame of mind—that is to +say, everybody was exceedingly facetious for about +three minutes. In about ten minutes one of the +party, who would slake his thirst unduly at a crystal +spring near the bivouac the previous evening, found +that his boot lace was untied; circumstances which +do not seem associated at first sight, but are not, +nevertheless, infrequently observed. So again have +I often remarked that a good dinner overnight +develops in an astonishing manner admiration for +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page107">[pg 107]</span><a name="Pg107" id="Pg107" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>distant views when ascending on the subsequent day. +Within a quarter of an hour the amateurs of the +party ceased to indulge in conversation, their remarks +dying away into a species of pained silence similar to +that which is induced in youthful voluptuaries by the +premature smoking of clay pipes. The guides, however, +seldom if ever desisted from dialogue, and never +for the purpose of listening to each other’s remarks. +Still, the respiratory process is governed by the +same conditions in the case of guides as in other +mortals, and though they would scorn to stoop to the +boot-lace subterfuge, and feel that a sudden admiration +for scenery would deceive no one, they yet found it +necessary before long to distribute their burdens more +equally; a process achieved by halting, untying +several strings, taking out several parcels and replacing +them in the same positions. By these +various methods we acquired what athletes call +<span class="tei tei-q">“second wind”</span> and stepped out more strongly. We +crossed a moraine of the usual inconsistency—however, +the subject of loose moraines has been, I fancy, +touched upon by other writers. The Baltschieder +Glacier sweeps at a right angle round a mountain +christened, not very originally, the Breithorn. This +particular member of that somewhat numerous family +blocks up the head of the Baltschieder Thal. We +skirted the north base of the Breithorn, passing between +it and the Jägihorn, and arriving at the top of a +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page108">[pg 108]</span><a name="Pg108" id="Pg108" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>steep little slope came in full view of the eastern +slopes of our objective peak. At this point Maurer +gave vent to a dismal wail of anguish as it suddenly +occurred to him that he had left the bottle of seltzer +water down below. With some difficulty did we persuade +him that it was not necessary to return for it, +although the idea of repose was not wholly distasteful, +but we felt that we had probably all our work cut out +for us in one sense, and that the days were none too +long for such an expedition as the one we had in hand. +Two distinct lines of attack appeared to offer themselves. +One route, more to our right, led upwards by +a gentle curved ridge, chiefly of snow, connecting the +Baltschieder Joch with the northern arête of the +mountain. In 1866 Messrs. D. W. Freshfield and +C. C. Tucker, as we learnt subsequently, attained a +high point by this way and were only prevented from +accomplishing the actual ascent by bad weather, +though they did enough to prove the practicability of +the route. However, this way, which appeared the +easier of the two, was evidently the longer from our +position. The other route had the advantage of lying +straight in front of us. Its attraction consisted of a +broad long gully of snow enclosed between two ridges +of rock. By the dim morning light the snow appeared +easy enough and was evidently in suitable condition: +howbeit, long snow couloirs, at the summit of which +rocks overhang, are not usually to be recommended +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page109">[pg 109]</span><a name="Pg109" id="Pg109" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>when the mountain itself is composed of friable +material. Now it would be difficult to find in the +whole of the Alps a mountain more disposed to cast +stones at its assailants than the Bietschhorn, a fact +of which we were fully aware. Every ascent of this +disintegrating peak so rearranges the rocks that the +next comers would not be wholly without justification +if they pleaded that the details of their ascent were to +a great extent new. Still, mountaineers up to the +present have not been quite reduced to such a far-fetched +claim to novelty, although in these latter days +they have at times come perilously near it. Judging +by the direction of the strata, we felt certain that the +rock ridges must be practicable, and the problem in +mountaineering set before us consisted in finding out +how we might best ascend without subjecting ourselves +to the inconveniences experienced by some of the early +martyrs. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The rocks of the Bietschhorn</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +An early breakfast put fresh strength into us. +It is a common mistake of mountaineers not to +breakfast early enough and not to breakfast often +enough. If it be desired to achieve a long expedition +when there is not likely to be too much spare time, +the wise man will eat something at least every two +hours up to about 10 o’clock in the morning, supposing, +for instance, he started about 2 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> It is +astonishing to notice how the full man gains upon +the empty one on fatiguing snow slopes. We strode +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page110">[pg 110]</span><a name="Pg110" id="Pg110" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>rapidly across the basin of snow called the Jägifirn +and arrived at the foot of the gully. But now we +could see that our suspicions were more than verified: +ugly-looking marks in the snow above indicated falling +stones, and the snow itself was obviously in a +condition prone to avalanches. This danger must +always be present in couloirs to a greater or less extent +in such seasons as the one we were experiencing. +There had been sufficient power of sun to convert the +contents of the gully into what would have been, in +fine weather, a glistening ice slope. But much fresh +snow had fallen recently. It but rarely can happen, +when snow has fallen late in the season or during the +hot months, that the new and the old layers can become +properly amalgamated. If, therefore, there is too +great a thickness of fresh snow to allow of steps being +cut through this into the ice beneath, such couloirs are +unsafe. The mark of a single avalanche due to the +sliding off of the fresh snow on the ice beneath—a +mark easily enough recognised—would deter any save +an unwise person or a novice from attempting such a +line of ascent. The marvellous hereditary instinct so +often attributed to guides in judging of this condition +really reduces itself to a matter of very simple observation +and attention, and one within the reach of +anybody. But travellers in the Alps too often appear +to treat their reasoning faculties like they do their tall +hats, and leave them at home. The question then +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page111">[pg 111]</span><a name="Pg111" id="Pg111" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>was, Were the rocks right or left of this snow gully +practicable? We all agreed that they were, and proceeded +at once to test the accuracy of our opinion. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Avalanches on the Bietschhorn</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +We crossed the bergschrund—that godsend to +writers on mountaineering in search of material to act +as padding—and without dwelling on its insecure bridge +longer than we need now dwell on the subject made +swiftly for some rocks on the left. Scarcely had we +gained them when a rush of snow and ice, of no great +dimensions, but still large enough to be formidable, +obliterated all the tracks we had just made. This +settled the point at once, and we felt that by the rocks +alone would it be proper to force the ascent. While +on the ridge we were safe enough, and had the advantage +as we clambered up of a most commanding position +from whence we could view the frequent avalanches +that swept by. The rain of the previous night, though +it had only lasted for an hour or two, had evidently +had a great effect on the state of the snow, and the +avalanches seemed to pour down almost incessantly: +probably some forty or fifty swept by us while we +climbed by the side of the gully, and our situation +gave rise to that feeling of somewhat pained security +which is experienced when standing on a railway +platform as an express train dashes by; we certainly +felt that some of the downfalls would have +reduced our party to a pulp quite as easily and with +as much unconcern as the train itself. The guides, +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page112">[pg 112]</span><a name="Pg112" id="Pg112" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>who do not perhaps tax their memories very severely +for a parallel on such an occasion, asserted, as they +generally do, that they had never seen anything like +it in the whole course of their lives. They then fell to +whistling, laughed very gaily, and borrowed tobacco +from each other. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A dramatic situation</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Gradually our difficulties became more pronounced, +and conversation on indifferent topics was discarded, +the remarks being confined to brief exclamations +such as <span class="tei tei-q">“Keep it tight!”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Don’t touch that one!”</span> +<span class="tei tei-q">“Hold on now!”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“You’re treading on my fingers!”</span> +<span class="tei tei-q">“The point of your axe is sticking into my stomach!”</span> +and similar ejaculations. Once in a way we ascended +for a few feet by the snow, though never quite losing +touch of the rocks, and sank waist deep in the soft +compound filling up the gully. Then we went back to +the rotten rocks for a brief spell, well content to be +more out of the reach of chance fragments of ice +falling down the shoot. It is wonderful to note how +quickly time passes in an exciting climb of this nature; +but our progress was actually rather rapid, so fast +indeed that we did not fully realise at one period that +we were getting into difficulties and that we had without +doubt strayed, Christian-like, from the narrow +path which was evidently the right one. Throughout +the day we were conscious that the climb was too long +to be completed if we made any serious mistake involving +the retracing of steps. Quite suddenly, our +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page113">[pg 113]</span><a name="Pg113" id="Pg113" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>situation became critical: a hurried glance up and +down along the line revealed the fact that each +member of the party had to do all he knew to preserve +his position. The attitudes were ungainly enough to +suggest instantaneous photographs at an ill-selected +movement of four individuals dancing a <span class="tei tei-q">“can-can.”</span> +Maurer was engaged apparently in an extremely +close and minute inspection of the toe of his right +boot. Another member of the party was giving a +practical illustration of the fact that he could, by +extreme extension of his arms, stretch more than +his own height, while a third was endeavouring to find +out why the power of co-ordinating his muscular +movements was suddenly lost to him, and why he +could not persuade his left leg to join his right. For +a few moments Jaun, who was leading, hung on by his +finger-tips and the issue of the expedition hung in the +balance. But our leader, by dint of some <a name="corr113" id="corr113" class="tei tei-anchor"></a><span class="tei tei-corr">complicated</span> +sprawls, transferred himself over a passage of rock on +which we had no earthly reason to be, and assisted +the rest of the party to regain a more promising line +of ascent. For those few minutes the situation was +dramatic enough, and the thought crossed my mind +that the curtain might not improbably descend on it; +a solution of the difficulty which commends itself to +the playwright when he has involved his <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">dramatis personæ</span></span> +in difficulties, but which is not without its +objections to the climber. On the whole the rocks on +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page114">[pg 114]</span><a name="Pg114" id="Pg114" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>this face of the mountain are much more difficult than +on the other, and, writing now after the lapse of some +years, I am disposed to think that these are perhaps +the most difficult crags of any that I have ever met +with to climb properly, that is with a minimum of risk +to one’s self and to one’s companions; as a good +proof of this I may say that the ascent would probably +have appeared fairly easy to a novice and that it +required some little Alpine experience to realise their +real difficulty and their treacherous nature. There +was scarcely time to test adequately all hand and foothold, +and examination of rocks by what surgeons term +palpation is a <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">sine quâ non</span></span> in rock climbing. Undoubtedly +the mountain was not in the best possible +order. We may possibly have rearranged the rocks +in our line of ascent in a more convenient manner for +those who follow. Certainly we may fairly say that +in our actual line of ascent we left no stone unturned +to ensure success. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The united party nearly fall out</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Close below the ridge—within perhaps ten feet of +it, for if I remember aright our leader had actually +reached the crest—came the climax to what was perhaps +rather a perilous climb. The first and second +on the rope had met in their upward passage a huge +cube of rock whose security they had carefully tested, +and to surmount which it was necessary to stretch +to the fullest extent in order to gain a respectable +hold for the hands. We were all four in a direct line +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page115">[pg 115]</span><a name="Pg115" id="Pg115" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>one below the other, and the two last on the rope were +placed perforce directly beneath the treacherous crag. +By an extension movement which conveyed some +notion of the sensation experienced by those on the +rack, I had reached a handhold pronounced to be of a +passable nature by those above. By this manœuvre +I succeeded in getting my feet exactly to a place on +which the others, who were much heavier than I, had +stood in security; without rhyme or reason the block +of stone, which was about the size of a grand pianoforte, +suddenly broke away from under me; a huge +gap seemed cloven out in the mountain side, and +Maurer, below, had only just time to spring aside, +enveloped in a cloud of dust, and to throw himself flat +against the rock, while the rope was strained to the +utmost. Fortunately the handhold above was sound +and I was able to hold on with feet dangling in the +air, searching in vain for some projection on which +to rest. Those above were too insecure to give any +efficient help, and in fact possibly viewed my struggles, +inasmuch as they were not fully aware at first of what +had happened, with as much equanimity as a person +inside a boat contemplates the gymnastic performances +of a bather trying to climb over the edge. As +the cloud of dust cleared off, however, and Maurer’s +face gradually beamed through it like the sun in a +fog, for the excitement had made him the colour of +a cornet player giving vent to a high note, they +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page116">[pg 116]</span><a name="Pg116" id="Pg116" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>began to realise that something abnormal had happened, +while the distant thundering reverberations of +the falling mass assured them that it was no ordinary +slip. Meanwhile Maurer planted his axe so as to give +me some foothold, and with a push from below and +a pull from above, fortunately simultaneous, I succeeded +in planting my feet where my hands were, and +subsequently undoubling found that we were within a +few feet of the ridge, that the panorama beyond was +undoubtedly magnificent, but was thrown out in strong +relief by deep blue-black thunder-clouds advancing +towards us. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Jaun now removed his empty pipe from his mouth +and replaced it by a lucifer match, which, either as an +aid to reflection or possibly for medicinal purposes, he +chewed as he contemplated the ridge. A miserably +cold wind with a remarkable knack of detecting all +the rents in our raiment whistled around; above, the +summit of the mountain was enveloped in driving +thick mist and cloud. Still the final ridge looked +fairly easy, and indeed proved to be so. The snow +was deep and soft, and the stones below were so +arranged as to remind us forcibly of a newly mended +road in our native country; big and little, all seemed +loose, and all arranged with their sharpest points and +edges uppermost. The ridge is moderately broad, +and we were able to flounder along with fair rapidity. +Spurred on by the unpromising look of the weather +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page117">[pg 117]</span><a name="Pg117" id="Pg117" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>and stimulated by the cold wind, which rendered any +halts so unpleasant as to be out of the question, we +set to work in earnest and found ourselves at the base +of the final little snow and rock cone earlier than the +length of the ridge had led us to expect. As we +stepped on to the summit we experienced the curious +sensation usually arising when climbing through +clouds, that the mountain itself was sinking away +rapidly from under our feet. The panorama was +wholly composed of a foreground consisting of mist, +and presented therefore comparatively few attractions. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A limited panorama</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +It was already so late in the afternoon that we +could not have afforded to stay in any case, and, as +we felt that serious difficulties might possibly be encountered +in descending, we set off at once, visions of +a warm welcome and a hot bath at Ried rising before +our minds. The idea of descending by way of the +Baltschieder Joch was negatived without a division. +The northern ridge of the Bietschhorn is a counterpart +of the one by which we had ascended, with the solitary +advantage in our case that we had to go down it and +not up. The snow slopes leading down to the Nest +Glacier were much broader, and we were strongly +tempted more than once to quit the ridge for this +western face of the mountain. Ultimately, persuaded +that the condition of the snow justified us in so doing, +we struck straight down on to the Nest Glacier, skirted +round the ridge of rocks dividing the Nest Glacier +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page118">[pg 118]</span><a name="Pg118" id="Pg118" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>from the Birch Glacier, and catching sight of a little +green patch some way below, threw off the rope and +rushed precipitately down to it. Misguided by a few +gleams of sunshine breaking out between the driving +clouds, we conceived the idea of repose and thought +that we might as well be aired and dried. Below, +the hotel at Ried was in full view, and it seemed +but an hour or two from us: but our troubles were +not yet over. The five minutes’ halt on such occasions +not uncommonly expand into five-and-fifty, and +we rather deliberately averted our gaze from the +western view of the valley, up which the thunder-clouds +were advancing steadily in close formation. +Eventually we decided to move on, in order to avoid +getting once more wet through. Vain hope: rapid +though our descent was to the level of the forest it +was not rapid enough. We ran furiously down the +rough slopes, but, as the storm advanced and we +perceived that we should be caught, the agitation of +our minds gradually equalled the agitation of our +bodies. We seemed to get no nearer Ried, while the +darkness increased rapidly around us. Knowing the +proclivities of guides on such occasions, my companion +and I agreed that nothing should induce us +to leave a path, should we perchance find one. Now, +in a dim light it is exceedingly easy to discover paths, +but extremely difficult to discover that variety of track +that leads anywhere. Determined, however, to stick +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page119">[pg 119]</span><a name="Pg119" id="Pg119" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>to our resolution, we found ourselves continually +pursuing level stretches right and left, only to find +that, as routes to any particular place, they were +snares and delusions; that there was a path with +long zigzags we knew, and indeed, finally, a shout +from the guides, who skipped about downhill with an +utter disregard for the integrity of their joints, and +adopted that curious cantering gait considered on +the stage to express light-hearted joy, announced +that they had discovered the way. With characteristic +inconsistency, they had no sooner found what we +had been so long searching for than they proposed +to leave it and make short cuts, so called; but we +were inflexible, and determined not to leave our path +or be seduced by the attractions of a perpendicular +descent through an unknown territory. The hotel +lights were no longer visible, but we knew that they +lay straight below us. The question was whether we +should turn right or left. The guides settled the +matter by darting off ahead, ostensibly from a perfect +acquaintance with their situation, but actually as we +suspected to avoid being worried with unpleasant +topographical questions. Gradually as we followed +the track our stern purpose began to waver, for it +was pointed out by some one that the path, though +undoubtedly a good one in point of construction and +general purpose, had two distinct disadvantages from +our present point of view; one being that it led uphill, +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page120">[pg 120]</span><a name="Pg120" id="Pg120" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>and the other that it ran in the wrong direction. +There are certain contingencies in life in which the +Briton finds but one adequate method of relieving +and expressing his feelings, such, for instance, as +when he finds himself bespattered with mud from +the passing hansom on a carefully selected shirt-front +and a white tie that would have moved to envy; or +when, again, as the last to leave his club at night +he finds the only remaining head-gear to consist of +a well-worn beaver many sizes too large, with fur +under the brim and a decoration of little rosettes and +bobstays. It is hard to see why the ejaculation of +any particular monosyllable should do him good at +such a juncture. Hard words unquestionably break +no bones, but neither do they mend the broken collar-stud +or the ruptured bootlace; and yet if he swallows +the expression down it will certainly ferment within +him, and fermentation is characterised by multiplication. +If, on the contrary, he articulates his feelings, +the whole situation suddenly appears changed, and he +can view the most untoward circumstances once more +with a calm serenity of temper. But the remedy, +though potent, specific almost, is too valuable to be +resorted to constantly, and should be reserved, like +Thursday’s razor, for the most special occasions. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A race for home</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Our situation on the present occasion fully justified +us in resorting to the source of relief vaguely alluded +to, and we employed it simultaneously with the +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page121">[pg 121]</span><a name="Pg121" id="Pg121" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>happiest results. Now the guides triumphed, and +such was our accommodating mood that we actually +acceded to their counsel and embarked on a perilous +descent down a vertical gully. Scarcely had we turned +into it when the storm broke and the rain came down +in sheets, and very damp sheets too. Some one now +suggested that the wisest plan would be to remain under +shelter till the rain had passed off. It was argued +against this amendment, and with a certain amount of +force, first that there was no probability of the rain +stopping, and secondly that there was no shelter: so +we went on. Gradually, as we became more wet, we +grew more desperate, and before long floundered down +as regardless of bumps as a bluebottle in a conservatory: +at one moment slithering over wet slabs of +rock to which damp tufts of moss were loosely adherent, +at another climbing carefully over gigantic toothcombs +of fallen trees, then plunging head foremost—sometimes +not exactly head foremost—through jungle-like +masses of long grass and dwarf brushwood. Soaked +to the skin, steamy, damp, and perspiring like bridegrooms, +we went on, utterly reckless as to our apparel, +and haunted by a perpetual idea that we should find +ourselves ultimately at some place whence further +descent would be impossible. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Caught out</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Within a few minutes the party divided and Jaun +and I found ourselves together. By the lightning +flashes I saw him from time to time; on one occasion +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page122">[pg 122]</span><a name="Pg122" id="Pg122" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>he suddenly disappeared from view, and on joining him +cautiously a little while after I found that he had +just previously seated himself abruptly on a flat rock, +immediately underneath a miniature torrent. The +fact that we did not at every ten seconds run against +large trees confirmed the idea that we were now +almost out of the wood; accordingly we halloaed, as +the occasion seemed suitable, but no answer was returned +from our companions. Now came the question +of how we were to cross the torrent which we knew +lay between us and the hotel. Jaun cheerfully remarked +that the best plan would be to find the bridge. +This was obvious enough, but he confessed that he +had forgotten at what part of the river’s course the +bridge lay. However, keeping close together, we +made towards the right, on which side the stream lay. +The slopes were here more level and less carelessly +laid out. Our hopes revived, for the hotel could +only be a few minutes off, and between the peals +of thunder we could hear the roar of the torrent and +could hear also the hollow sound due to the boulders +rolling over its stony bed. Of a sudden we came on +to its banks, and formidable enough the stream looked. +The idea of searching for the bridge seemed childish, +for the whole of the frail wooden structure had +probably been carried away long before down to the +Rhone valley. The hotel was only a few yards off, +and again the situation was exasperating enough to +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page123">[pg 123]</span><a name="Pg123" id="Pg123" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>justify a resort to extreme measures, if it were an +extreme measure to express forcibly a wish that the +torrent might be—well, temporarily stopped up at +some higher point. Jaun now volunteered to wade +across. It was quite unnecessary for him to divest +himself of any clothing for the purpose, and in fact +when he had succeeded very pluckily in reaching the +other side he was not in the least degree wetter than +when he started. He shouted some observations +from the other side, which I took to mean that he +would go on to the hotel and procure a lantern. +Accordingly I seated myself to await his return, +selecting unintentionally a little pool of water, which +however did just as well as anything else. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The water jump</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Before long a flashing light advancing indicated +that Jaun had been successful, and two forms were +seen dimly on the opposite side, one with a light. +The bearer of the lantern was an aged person in shirt +sleeves and a highly excited frame of mind. The +aged person, on the distant shore, gesticulated as +violently as a marionette doll when its wires have got +hitched up wrong, and then, seemingly possessed of a +sudden fury, rushed violently down a steep place and +beckoned frantically with his lantern. This seemed +to mean that I was to descend to a point on the bank +opposite to where he stood. It now appeared that +there was a bridge within a few yards of us, if a +single spiky, submerged, and insecure trunk could be +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page124">[pg 124]</span><a name="Pg124" id="Pg124" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>considered such. The old man embraced me warmly +when I had made my way across, slapped me hard on +the back, and then laughed very loud and suddenly. +Then he darted off with the agility and abruptness of +movement of an elderly lady from the country crossing +in front of an omnibus, or a hen, a foolish animal +that always waits to the last moment before running +needlessly to the wrong side of the road. Guided by +the lantern which the impulsive veteran flourished +wildly in every direction, so that no one dared +approach him, in another ten minutes we reached the +hotel and found ourselves, with the exception of our +companions, who had arrived a few minutes before—Heaven +only knows how, for they did not—fortunately +the only occupants of the hotel. The volatile sexagenarian +calmed down, put on his coat, put out his +lantern, and retired to repose in an outhouse, a +shelter to which I fancy he was relegated owing to +certain physical infirmities. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A classical banquet</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +It was eleven o’clock, and we had been pretty +actively employed for twenty-one hours. The idea of +food and a change of raiment was not, therefore, distasteful. +A middle-aged female with an excessively +<span class="tei tei-q">“rational”</span> and hygienic waist, who said she was the +waitress, volunteered to serve the banquet, but the +change of raiment necessary was naturally beyond her +means, while the idea of borrowing from the aged +person’s wardrobe did not commend itself to us, so we +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page125">[pg 125]</span><a name="Pg125" id="Pg125" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>ordered in a large stock of towels. <span class="tei tei-q">“But,”</span> I remarked, +<span class="tei tei-q">“you can’t go about in a bath towel”</span>—the truth of +which assertion was immediately evident, for they were +so small that it was difficult to fasten them with any +degree of security; accordingly blankets were requisitioned, +and a very classical effect in costume was thus +produced, though what the Romans did when there +was a gale of wind I do not know. To keep up the +delusion we arranged the chairs after the fashion of +couches, and appeased our hunger with a curious repast +of stewed apples and mixed biscuits, the sole articles +of food that could be discovered. However, to anticipate, +we fared better the next day at breakfast; for +though Bright Chanticleer proclaimed the morn at +3 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> he did not proclaim any subsequent period of +time, as he was captured and cooked for our repast. +The waitress while we supped was busily engaged in +stoking up the stove, and seized upon our damp +raiment with avidity to have it ready for the next +morning; so energetic was she in fact that we felt it +necessary to remonstrate, foreseeing the probability +that our clothes might have to be brought back to us +in a dust shovel: we remarked that, though sorry for +our misdeeds, we would limit for choice the repentant +nature of our apparel to the sackcloth we were then +wearing and would dispense with the adjunct of ashes. +The unreliable nature of the fastenings of our costume +prevented us from accompanying our forcible remarks +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page126">[pg 126]</span><a name="Pg126" id="Pg126" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>with properly impressive gestures. The remonstrance, +however, had the desired effect, and our garments the +next day, though somewhat shrivelled and inconveniently +tight here and there, still proved that they +had resisted effectively the fire as well as the water. +</p> +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The old cure</span></div></div> +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +The amount of luxury found in the Lötschthal since +those days has materially improved. Time was when +the only accommodation for the traveller was to be +found at the humble tenement of Mons. le Curé, a +worthy old creature as I remember him, who appeared +to keep an apiary in his back drawing-room and was +wont to produce the most excellent honey and the +most uncompromising bread; the latter article, as +one might judge, was baked about as often as the old +gentleman washed himself. But the milk of human +kindness flowed strongly in him (as it may be said to +do in those who have been made the subjects of +transfusion), though, to tell the truth, it was somewhat +decidedly flavoured with garlic, and it needed +much resolution to attentively listen to the confidential +communications he was in the habit of whispering. +A man of education and gentle refinement—at any +rate of mind—his was a hard lot, buried away in a +squalid little parish, with no earthly being to talk to +possessed of more than one idea; yet he slaved on +contentedly enough with no thought beyond the +peasants in his own district and of how he might +relieve their condition, too often at the expense of his +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page127">[pg 127]</span><a name="Pg127" id="Pg127" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>own welfare; isolated more than any ascetic, for his +mental existence was that of a hermit, from circumstances +and not from will. The thought of solitary +confinement is terrible, but utter mental isolation is +hideous. Yet, while he entertained us hospitably with +fare which, though rough, was the very best he could +offer, he would not join in the repast: not, probably, +from lack of appetite, but from a feeling that, owing +to prolonged seclusion and association with the +peasants, the more fashionable and accepted methods +of preparing food for consumption and conveying it +to the mouth, with subsequent details, were somewhat +dim to his recollection. Yet his conversation flowed +fast and he talked well: the while any reference to +friends and fellow-travellers would cause him to pause +for a moment or two, look upwards around the room, +and fetch a rather long breath before he recommenced. +A curiously gaunt old creature he seemed at first +sight: with wonderful, bony, plastic hands capable of +expressing anything; grotesque almost in his unkempt +rustiness; provoking a smile at first, but sadness as +one learnt more of him. And how closely are the two +emotions associated. In truth Humour was born a +twin, and her sister was christened Pathos. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +I can recall that he accepted a sum of ten francs +when we parted in the morning. His eyes glistened +with pleasure as he took the coin and straightway +made for a ramshackle hovel on the hill-side, where +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page128">[pg 128]</span><a name="Pg128" id="Pg128" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>lay an aged person <span class="tei tei-q">“très-malade.”</span> Possibly after his +visit there was left a happy peasant in that tumble-down +cabin—an emotional object more often described +than witnessed. But all this took place years ago, +and as we passed the collection of dilapidated tenements +in one of which our old friend once lived, I +failed to recognise his former dwelling-place. The +timbers grew old and worn, the bands rusty, and one +day the wheel which had worked steadily for so long +stopped. Yet the stream which had moved it ran on +as if nothing had happened. Was it a wasted life? +Who can say if there be such a thing? +</p> + <div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-left: 2.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> +<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">A few can touch the magic string,</div> +<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 2.00em">And noisy Fame is proud to win them:</div> +<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Alas! for those that never sing,</div> +<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 2.00em">But die with all their music in them.</div> +</div> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We passed on: in a few minutes the houses were lost +to view and there was left but the reflection of how +much more, worthy of study, there was in this old +curé’s nature than in the majority of Swiss with +whom mountaineering brings us in close contact. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A </span><span class="tei tei-q"><span style="font-size: 80%">“</span><span style="font-size: 80%">pension</span><span style="font-size: 80%">”</span></span><span style="font-size: 80%"> in a train</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +As we descended the Lötschthal to Gampel the +air seemed to thicken. The excessive warmth allowed +our garments to stretch once again to their wonted +girth, and we became less thoughtful. The vignette +of the ancient curé dissolved away and was replaced +by a view (mental only, unhappily) of our aiguille at +Chamouni, black and bare of snow, inviting another +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page129">[pg 129]</span><a name="Pg129" id="Pg129" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>attack. Gampel does not tempt the traveller much +to seek repose, and we therefore caught the first train +that came crawling along the valley and shaped +our course for Chamouni in a second-class carriage +tenanted by a <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">pension</span></span> of young ladies out for a holiday +apparently, who all chirped and twittered and wrangled +for the best places till the going down of the sun, +like the Temple sparrows. +</p> + +</div><hr class="page" /><div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page130">[pg 130]</span><a name="Pg130" id="Pg130" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> +<a name="toc13" id="toc13"></a> + <a name="pdf14" id="pdf14"></a> +<h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"><span style="font-size: 173%">CHAPTER V.</span></h1> + +<h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"><span style="font-size: 144%">AN OLD FRIEND WITH A NEW FACE</span></h1> + +<div class="tei tei-argument" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em"><p class="tei tei-p" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 0.90em"><span style="font-size: 90%"> +Chamouni again—The hotel </span><span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-style: italic">clientèle</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">—A youthful hero—The inevitable +English family—A scientific gentleman—A dream of the +future—The hereafter of the Alps and of Alpine literature—A +condensed mountain ascent—Wanted, a programme—A double +</span><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Brocken</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">—A hill-side phenomenon and a familiar character—A +strong argument—Halting doubts and fears—A digression on +mountaineering accidents—</span><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">From gay to grave, from lively to +severe</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">—The storm breaks—A battle with the elements—Beating +the air—The ridge carried by assault—What next, and next?—A +topographical problem and a cool proposal—The descent down +the Vallée Blanche—The old Montanvert hotel—The Montanvert +path and its frequenters. +</span></p></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +It was the summer of 18— and our old quarters at +Couttet’s hotel knew us once more. As we drove into +the village of Chamouni we turned our heads carelessly +around to note the various new hotels that might have +arisen since our last visit. Observing that they were +four or five in number, we rightly conjectured that +we should find all the hotel keepers complaining +bitterly of the hard times and the want of custom. +Also we wondered in how many ways it was possible +to build a house without any particular system of +drainage, a deficiency which was at that time +becom<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page131">[pg 131]</span><a name="Pg131" id="Pg131" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>ing very marked in Chamouni, but has since, I believe, +been improved. Yet the place itself had not altered +essentially. New buildings of imposing exterior and +little else do not materially alter a place that leads a +life like that of modern Chamouni. The population, +which throughout the summer appears to pass its +time in the streets with its hands in its pockets, was +still amusing itself in the same way. The tone of the +village was just the same as we had always known it, +and even M. Couttet himself had not succeeded in +imparting any marine flavour by building an odd little +lighthouse with an iron flag on the top which the +architect had ingeniously represented as streaming +permanently in a direction indicating a wind favourable +for fine weather. We knew that we should find +the same denizens in the hotel; and they were there. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A youthful +hero</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +There was a very young man with a very parti-coloured +face from exposure on the glaciers, who had +recently completed the thousand-and-first ascent of +Mont Blanc and was perpetually posing gracefully +against the door-post or in a lattice-work summer-house +a few steps from the hotel, gazing towards the +mountain and rather eagerly joining in any conversation +relating to the perils of the ascent. There were +three or four young ladies of various periods of life +who gazed at him with admiration and enquired at intervals +if he wasn’t very tired; to which the young man +replied carelessly that he was not, and inwardly thought +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page132">[pg 132]</span><a name="Pg132" id="Pg132" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>that the discomfort of sunburn and the consequent +desquamation was on the whole cheaply bought, the +while he wished the expedition had not cost so much +and that so many others had not thought of making +the same ascent. And then there came a lithe, active +lady walker who had been up Mont Blanc and a great +many other mountains too, and paid no more attention +to the guides’ stereotyped compliments than a +suspicious dog does to those of a nervous visitor: so +the young man’s nose was put out of joint and he would +have laughed scornfully at the fickleness of hero worship +had not the skin of his face been in danger of +cracking, and he wished his shirt collar had not been +starched and thumped by the village washerwoman into +the form of a circular linen saw. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A scientific gentleman</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Then there was an excitable Englishman of impulsive +habits, with a large family who were perpetually +playing a game of follow-my-leader with their parent, +and who were under orders to weigh anchor on the +following morning at five o’clock for the Montanvert +and the Mauvais Pas. The boys were stoking up for +the occasion with raw apples, and the girls were occupied, +when not pursuing their restless father, in preparing +a puggaree for his hat. There was a gentleman +who affected the curious untidiness of raiment not +unfrequently noticed among Sunday frequenters of +the Thames, and who sought to establish a mountaineering +reputation by constantly gazing at the peaks +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page133">[pg 133]</span><a name="Pg133" id="Pg133" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>around in a knowing manner and wearing a flannel +shirt of an obtrusive pattern destitute of any collar. +There were guides about, who were on the point of +being paid for their services and who were exceedingly +polite and obsequious; others whose <span class="tei tei-q">“tour”</span> had just +passed, were, proportionately, less deferential. There +was an elderly lady whose whole soul appeared bent +on a little stocking from which she never parted, +and who turned the knitting needles to more account +for toilet and other small purposes than I could have +conceived to be possible. There were two or three +mountaineers who appeared anxious only to avoid +everyone’s gaze and who might be seen in byways and +odd corners talking to bronzed guides who looked like +business. Finally, there was a gentleman of statistical +and scientific tendencies, much given to making quietly +astonishing statements of astronomical facts and +gently smiling as he rolled over his tongue and enjoyed +the flavour of the vast numbers with which it +was his pleasure to deal. He absolutely revelled and +wallowed in figures. Buttonholed in a corner and +compelled to listen with deferential attention, I secretly +writhed as he crushed me slowly with the mere weight +of his numerals. He shared with others of his frame +of mind the peculiarity of always keeping something +in hand and skilfully working up to a climax. Such +and such a star was so many millions of miles off. +We opened our eyes to the proper degree of width and +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page134">[pg 134]</span><a name="Pg134" id="Pg134" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>observed, <span class="tei tei-q">“Bless me!”</span> or, <span class="tei tei-q">“You don’t say so?”</span> Instantly +he would rejoin, <span class="tei tei-q">“Ah, but that’s nothing to +so and so,”</span> and then favoured us with a still more +immeasurable distance. We expressed a slightly +greater degree of intelligent amazement. Thereupon +he nodded his head, gently inclined it a little to one +side, and smiled softly. It gave him such evident +pleasure to have a listener that I attended with due +reverence to his enthusiastic computations; knowing +my man, I felt sure that he was keeping back a real +staggerer to finish up with, and was prepared to +assume varying degrees of surprise up to the moment +when it should come. Unfortunately I misjudged its +advent, and feeling that I had somewhat lost in his +estimation by evincing undue astonishment at a comparatively +small array of figures, I sought to turn the +conversation by requesting to know how long he +thought it might be before the great rock peaks around +us would have crumbled away to their bases. The +calculation was too trivial and the number of millions +of generations too small to interest him much, but he +vouchsafed an approximate estimate. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A dream of the future</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +I let him babble on and fell a-thinking. The peaks +were crumbling away bit by bit no doubt, the glaciers +shrinking. At a bound the mind leapt into a future +which, after all, might be not so very unlike a past. +The Alps things of the past! What, I wondered, +when the mountains were all levelled down and +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page135">[pg 135]</span><a name="Pg135" id="Pg135" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>smiling valleys occupied the troughs of the glaciers +of to-day, would some future commentators make of +the literature so industriously piled up by the members +and followers of the Alpine Club? Imagination ran +riot as in a dream, and I fancied some enthusiast +exploring the buried city of the second Babylon and +excavating the ruins of the <span class="tei tei-q">“finest site in Europe.”</span> +I pictured to myself the surprise in store for him on +digging out the effigies of some of our naval and +military heroes, and the mingled feelings with which he +would contemplate the unearthed statue of George IV. +It seemed possible that in that far-off epoch to which +my friend’s calculations had borne me, the Alpine Club +itself might have ceased to exist. Pursuing his explorations +in an easterly direction, the excavator +might perchance have lighted on a strange tunnel, +almost Arcadian in its simplicity of design, and +marvelled at the curious and cheap idols of wax and +wood which the people of that ancient day had evidently +worshipped. Turning north again, this Schliemann +of the future would pass by the ruins of +S. Martin’s Church, eager to light upon the precious +archives of the historic Alpine Club itself. How +eagerly he would peruse the lore contained in the +Club library, anxious to decipher the inscriptions +and discover what manner of men they were who +lived and climbed when mountains and glaciers were +still to be found on this planet. Human nature would +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page136">[pg 136]</span><a name="Pg136" id="Pg136" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>probably not have changed much, and the successful +explorer might even have been asked to favour a +scientific society of the future with the result of his +discoveries, to which in all probability he would have +acceded, with a degree of reluctance not quite sufficient +to deter the secretary of the society from pressing +him. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A condensed mountain ascent</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +An abstract of his description of our sibylline +leaves I fancied might run somewhat in this style:—After +commenting on the fact that the maps and +illustrations did not usually correspond in number +with the list set forth in the index of the volumes +unearthed, he might proceed thus:—<span class="tei tei-q">“In pursuit of +their great and glorious object these ancient heroes +appear to have undergone vast personal discomfort. +It is difficult therefore to realise fully why so many +engaged in this form of exploration. Instances +have been given by other learned antiquarians who +have studied the habits of this people, of a similar +purposeless disregard of comfort, such as the four-wheeled +wooden boxes in which they travelled about, +the seats in their churches, &c. The outset of their +expedition was almost invariably characterised by a +display of bad temper, attributed to early rising. +After a varying number of hours of excessive toil +the travellers were wont to arrive at some fearsome +chasm spoken of as a <span class="tei tei-q">‘bergschrund.’</span> On this, if the +subject-matter of their narrative was insufficient in +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page137">[pg 137]</span><a name="Pg137" id="Pg137" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>quantity, they were wont to descant and enlarge at +length; sometimes, as we judge, in their descriptions +they enlarged the bergschrund itself. They then +crossed it. Immediately after this incident they were +in the habit of eating, and the minute and instructive +details commonly given enable us to form +a tolerably accurate opinion as to the nature of the +diet with which they supported their exhausted +frames. Next they traversed strange localities for +which there appear to have been no adequately descriptive +expressions in their own language. In fact the +difficulty of deciphering these records is greatly increased +by the fact that the writers were versatile +linguists, for they constantly make use of words of +a hybrid character. They were evidently practised +meteorologists and took much interest in this subject, +as may be gathered throughout from their writings. At +length they reached summits, of the nature of which we +in our time can have but a feeble conception. So great +was their relief at the termination of their self-imposed +but toilsome task, that they habitually burst +forth into language characterised by a wealth of +imagery and a fervour of poetic description which +unfortunately conveys but little idea to us in our day +of what they actually saw. In descending they were +all commonly within an ace of meeting with a violent +death. The mode in which the danger attacked them +varied within certain restricted limits, but it always +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page138">[pg 138]</span><a name="Pg138" id="Pg138" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>occurred and the escape was always narrow. The +peril over, they remarked that they breathed freely +again, and then at once fell to eating. Arrived at a +successful termination of their wearisome labour, they +advised others to do the same. They dealt out unsparing +satire to their companions, unlimited praise +to their guides, and unmeasured ridicule to their +porter. They commonly expressed throughout their +descriptions grave doubts and uncertainty as to the +issue of the expedition: a curious and noteworthy +fact, for the heading of the accounts always divulged +at the outset their ultimate success. The construction, +therefore, of their narratives was in accordance with a +well-recognised model and appeared capable of little +variation. The only other facts that we can glean +are that they were prodigious eaters, were much +pestered by some extinct species of insects, and that +they make frequent allusions to a substance termed +tobacco. The constant repetition of these incidents +stamps upon their writings the impress of unexaggerated +veracity. Still they were not universally +held in favour, indeed were regarded with disapprobation +by some individuals of their own race. It would +seem indeed from internal evidence that, had it not +been for frequent and sharp criticism of their proceedings, +their pastime might never have inveigled so +many persons with its seductive fascination.”</span> +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Now at the time at which these prophetic fancies +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page139">[pg 139]</span><a name="Pg139" id="Pg139" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>were conjured up we had just completed an expedition +which it seemed might be worthy of attention, solely +on the ground of its very contradictoriness. For the +features of this climb were most opposed to those +already mentioned, and in fact mention of it scarcely +seemed admissible in an Alpine narrative. We took +no porter with us to fill the rôle of first low comedy +man. We had very little to eat; our stock of wine +ran out through a leaky gourd; our tobacco was wet +and there was no bergschrund, and yet all this +happened on a mountain close to Chamouni. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Wanted, a programme</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +<span class="tei tei-q">“Some vast amount of years ago, ere all my youth +had vanished from me,”</span> as the poet says, at a date +therefore which for obvious reasons it is inexpedient +here to mention, I found myself, as already mentioned, +at Chamouni. With me was an old mountain friend +and fellow climber, J. Oakley Maund. We were both +burning with desire to add to the list of the many +successful expeditions we had made together, but, as +a matter of fact, were somewhat gravelled for lack of +suitable matter. Like a ministry on the eve of a +general election or a gentleman without a sixpenny-piece +at a theatre, we were sorely in need of a programme. +The locality was somewhat unfortunately +chosen for those in whom the ancient spirit was not +yet quite extinct and who wanted to do something new. +Ever since the days when Jacques Balmat, Dr. Paccard, +and the great De Saussure had donned strange apparel +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page140">[pg 140]</span><a name="Pg140" id="Pg140" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>and shown the way—that is to say, for nearly a hundred +years—people had been climbing mountains in the +district, and it was not to be wondered at if it were +hard to find some expedition which nobody else had +thought of, or, worse still, had achieved. We gazed +at the map and made thumb marks all over it. In +every conceivable direction ran little lines indicative +of previous explorations. We studied the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">carte en +relief</span></span>, but without much hope of getting any information +of value from this inaccurate and lumpy +absurdity. Mont Blanc, which, according to this work +of plastic art, was modelled out as some eight or ten +thousand feet higher than any other point of the chain, +had had all the snow worn off its summit by much +fingering, so that the component pasteboard showed +through. Rivers ran uphill in this map, and lakes +were inclined at an angle; bits of sticking plaister represented +towns and villages, and the whole article was +absolutely bristling with little spikes and points like +the old panoramas of London or the docks at Liverpool. +Still a considerable number of people seemed +willing enough to pay fifty centimes for the pleasure +of indicating elaborate expeditions on it with their +fore-fingers, and appeared to derive pleasure from +gazing on a pasteboard misrepresentation when they +could by looking out of window see the real thing for +nothing. We abandoned the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">carte en relief</span></span> and took +Jaun and Kaspar Maurer into our confidence. The +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page141">[pg 141]</span><a name="Pg141" id="Pg141" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>only suggestions that they could make were the +Aiguille des Charmoz and the Dent du Géant. The +former of these two peaks we had both tried to +ascend in former seasons, without success. Jaun did +not think then that it was possible, and without +sharing his opinion we gave way to it. With regard to +the latter mountain we all thought at the time that an +undue amount of what is vaguely termed <span class="tei tei-q">“artificial +aid”</span> would be necessary to ensure success, an opinion +confirmed by subsequent events, for when Signor +Sella achieved the honour of the first ascent he was +only able to accomplish it by somewhat elaborate +engineering appliances. Some bold person of an +original turn of thought suggested of course a variation +of some way up Mont Blanc, but the utter impossibility +of discovering the slightest deviation from +any previously ascended route and the utter uselessness +of trying to find one caused a general shout of +derision, and the bold person thereupon withdrew his +suggestion and ordered some coffee. Besides, the +weather was fine; every day swarms of tourists +could be seen, crawling up the sides of the monarch +of mountains, in numbers as many as the flies on a +sugar loaf in a grocer’s window on a hot day. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +One evening we sat in front of Couttet’s hotel +staring pensively at the familiar outline of the row +of aiguilles, and wishing we had lived in the days of +Albert Smith, the best friend Chamouni ever had. +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page142">[pg 142]</span><a name="Pg142" id="Pg142" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>At any rate, at that time the natives were unsophisticated +and the mountains about were not all done to +death. The valley between us and the chain was +filled with a light haze, not sufficient to conceal the +outline of the mountains but yet enough to blot out +their detail and solidity. As the moon rose behind +the chain we saw a strange phenomenon. A silhouette +was thrown forwards on to the curtain of haze +and photographed on it with sharp and clear definition, +so that we could recognise, at an immense +height, the shadowed peaks looking almost as massive +as the actual mountains. Nor was this all; a second +curtain of mist seemed to be suspended, in a vertical +stratum, in front of the former one, and the shadows +were again marked out on this, infinitely more magnified +and less distinct, but still perfectly recognisable. +As a result we were able to see the semblance of three +distinct tiers of mountains one above the other, looking +so massive that we could scarcely realise that they +were but transparent ghosts of the peaks; and the +phenomenon, a double <span class="tei tei-q">“Brocken,”</span> must have lasted +for more than half an hour. However, we desired +something more of the nature of the substance than +the shadow, and ultimately came to the conclusion +that it was absolutely necessary for our peace of mind +to accomplish something on the morrow, and as it +really mattered but little what that something might +be, provided a good climb was afforded, we must yield +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page143">[pg 143]</span><a name="Pg143" id="Pg143" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>to circumstances and perforce adopt the latter-day +necessity of all mountaineers. If we could not find the +right way up some new mountain we could at least +take the wrong way up an old one. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The Aiguille du Midi</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +So the next morning we walked up to the Pierre +Pointue as a preliminary step—a good many and +rather arduous steps—towards the object in view. +The exertion of toiling up the zigzags or the more +rarefied atmosphere had a remarkable effect on one of +the party, whose face when we reached the chalet was +found to be wreathed in smiles and wearing an expression +of great intelligence. He had in fact become +possessed of an idea. Bubbling over with self-satisfied +chuckles, he suggested that we should ascend the +Aiguille du Midi by the face directly in front of us +and then descend on the other side, thus making a +col of the mountain. The idea found favour instantly, +and the intelligent person was so much pleased that +he ordered a bottle of wine, plastered over with a very +costly variety of label, and regretted it. Investigation +of the cellar revealed only two casks of wine, but the +<span class="tei tei-q">“carte”</span> comprised a long list of various vintages. +Fired with enthusiasm and inflated with <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">limonade +gazeuse</span></span>, we left the chalet and strode vigorously up +the hill in order to prospect the route and reconnoitre +the rocks. The exertion and the pace soon told upon +us, the sooner that it was a hot, enervating day; +the kind of day that makes one perforce admire the +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page144">[pg 144]</span><a name="Pg144" id="Pg144" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>ingenious benevolence of nature in fashioning out on +the grassy slopes rounded inequalities, exactly adapted +to those of the human figure in a seated or recumbent +position. The heated air rising from the ground gave +flickering and distorted views of distant objects, like +unto marine phenomena viewed through the cheap +panes of a seaside lodging-house window. The grasshoppers +were extraordinarily busy; the bees droned +through the heavy air; the ants, overcome apparently +by the temperature, had given up for the time straining +their jaws by their foolish practice of carrying +large parcels about without any definite object, and +had retired to the shady seclusion of their own +heaped-up residences; the turf was most inviting. +It now occurred to us that there was no absolute +necessity for the whole party to ascend on the present +occasion, and that perhaps the guides might go up +quicker alone. The details of this suggestion were +acceded to on the part of the amateurs of the party +with astonishing alacrity and unanimity. We laid +the scheme before the guides, and they also thought +it a very fine one. Thereupon, with much parade +and ceremony, they braced themselves up for great +exertion, borrowed the telescope, remarked that they +expected to be back some time during the night, and +started upwards with somewhat over-acted eagerness. +My companion and I disposed ourselves comfortably +in the shade, and resumed an argument which had +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page145">[pg 145]</span><a name="Pg145" id="Pg145" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>originally commenced some days previously. I waxed +eloquent on the subject under discussion and with +much success, for such was the force of my logic and +the cogency of my reasoning that I bore down on +my opponent, and reduced him in a short time to absolute +silence, from which he did not awake for nearly +two hours. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Ephemeral acquaintances</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +About this time the guides, who in all probability +had also been comfortably asleep within a +short distance of us, returned and gave a favourable +report concerning the mountain. Elated by this news, +we climbed a short distance further up, and met there +a large party of ephemeral acquaintances who were +taking an afternoon’s pleasure on the hills. After the +manner of people when so engaged, they set forth +with great energy and climbed up a steep little rock +tump a few hundred yards distant. Arrived at the +summit, they roared out unintelligible remarks to us, +and we did the same to them till we were hoarse; we +waved our hands and hats and they flourished their +handkerchiefs as if they were our dearest friends on +earth, just setting out on an emigrant ship for the +Antipodes. The party then descended; the nearer +they came the less friendly and demonstrative were +we, and by the time we met the warmth of affection +recently manifested on both sides had wholly evaporated, +and we conversed in ordinary tones on indifferent +topics. Then they set out for another little hill, +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page146">[pg 146]</span><a name="Pg146" id="Pg146" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>and we were moved, apparently by some uncontrollable +impulse, to go through the same idiotic performance. +Emotional behaviour of a similar kind is not infrequently +observed in the mountains. We journeyed +together back to the Pierre Pointue, viewing each +other with distrust and suspicion; and when it was +found that we had bespoken the beds—if the exaggerated +packing-cases lined with straw bags could be +considered such—we parted on terms the reverse +of friendly. So frail are the links that bind human +affections. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A familiar character</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Standing in front of the hut was a type of +character very familiar in these tourist-frequented +districts. His exterior was unpromising; his beard of +a fortnight’s growth, or thereabouts, somewhat fitful +withal and lacking in uniformity of development. A +hard hat, with a shining green veil folded around its +battered outline, decorated his head; his raiment was +black and rusty, his legs cased in canvas gaiters +fastened with many little girths and buckles, and in +his right hand he grasped a trusty three-franc pole +made of wainy deal, and surmounted at the top by a +brown knob similar to those which come out suddenly +when we try to open a chest of drawers in a cheap +lodging. He fidgeted about for a while, asked questions +in a rather loud tone of voice at us, and we felt +that it was his intention to enter into conversation. +It was even so. After a while he sidled up and +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page147">[pg 147]</span><a name="Pg147" id="Pg147" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>requested with much diffidence to be informed what +we proposed to climb on the morrow. Now the true +mountaineer, however amiable his disposition, always +shrinks up into his shell when such a question is put +to him on the eve of an expedition. My companion +indicated by a sweep of the arm a space of territory +extending about from the Mont Buet on the one side +round to the Aiguille de Gouté on the other. Our +friend surveyed from end to end the extensive +panorama suggested, then looked seriously at us and +observed that we should probably find it a fine walk. +We expressed gravely the opinion that he was quite +right, and then went in to dinner, while our composite +friend expatiated on the project to his companions as +an expedition but little out of the ordinary run, and +one that he was perfectly prepared to undertake himself +if so disposed; then he resumed his contemplation +of a rock some ninety feet or so in height jutting out +through the glacier above, which he was under the +impression was a lady descending from Mont Blanc. +We did not learn his name, but the individual may, +nevertheless, possibly be recognised. Some points of the +argument were still unsettled when we climbed over +the edges of our respective boxes and vanished into +the strawy depths below. The clear moonlight +streamed in through the window and prevented sleep; +so I lay in my wooden box thinking over the recent +discussion, but with such a distinct +intention—<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page148">[pg 148]</span><a name="Pg148" id="Pg148" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>like little Paul Dombey with Mrs. Pipchin—of +fixing my companion presently, that even that hardy +old mountaineer deemed it prudent to counterfeit +slumber. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +In the small hours of the morning we got under +weigh. For some time we had been leading a life of +sloth in Chamouni, and the delight of finding ourselves +once more on the mountain path, and making +for a rock climb, entirely precluded that fractiousness +which, as all readers of Alpine literature know, ought +properly to be described at this period of an expedition. +The path was irregular and demanded some equanimity, +for the stumbling-blocks were innumerable +and artfully placed to trip up the unwary in an +aggravating manner. Feeling it unfair that all the +work should be thrown on the guides, I had volunteered, +rather magnanimously, to bear part of the +burden, and selected the lantern as my share. By +this means it was not only possible to walk in comfort +over a well-lighted track, but the bearer was enabled also +to regulate the pace to a speed convenient to his own +feelings. Before long, however, we reached the lower +snow patches of the Glacier des Pélèrins, and the +light was no longer necessary. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Halting doubts and fears</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +We made straight across the crisp snow to the base +of a promising-looking rock buttress lying to the right +of the snow gully that runs up the side of the mountain, +feeling sure that either by the rocks or the snow a +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page149">[pg 149]</span><a name="Pg149" id="Pg149" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>way up could be found. And now I am painfully conscious +of a glaring defect in this Alpine narrative. A +mountain ascent without a bergschrund is as tame as a +steeplechase without a water jump, but candour compels +the admission that no bergschrund was visible. +Either we had hit on a spot where the orthodox chasm +was filled up for the time, or else this particular +glacier was an exception to all others previously +treated of in mountain literature. In a few seconds +we found ourselves on the rocks, delighted to exchange +the monotonous mode of progression compulsory on +snow for the varied gymnastic exercises demanded on +rocks. The sun had risen, the axes clanked merrily +against the stones, the snow was in good condition for +walking, everything seemed favourable, and we gazed +down complacently on the distance already traversed. +Above us the mountain was broken up and easy, and +we climbed on rapidly, each in the fashion that seemed +best to him. So good was our progress at first, that +we were already far up the buttress, and could barely +see our morning’s tracks in the snow beneath, when a +halt was called for breakfast, and we had time to look +around. Now, however unconventional this expedition +may have been in many respects, the sagacious +student of Alpine literature will know that it must be +wholly impossible to omit all reference to the weather. +As soon might one expect two prosaic persons of slight +acquaintanceship to abjure the topic at a chance +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page150">[pg 150]</span><a name="Pg150" id="Pg150" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>meeting. The western sky wore a rather ominous +look of half mourning, and heavy grey and black +clouds were whirling about and forming up in close +order in a manner suggestive of rising wind. Even +at this stage of the proceedings the thought crossed +our minds that the storm which was evidently brewing +might possibly overtake us, and that perhaps we ought +at once to turn back. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The storm gathers</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +One thing was evident; that we must decide +quickly, whatever we did. We determined to push +on for a while, and with that intent girded ourselves +with the rope and worked our way on to the +top of the first buttress. At this point, further +progress directly upwards was impossible, and we +were compelled to cross the gully and make for +the rock on the left-hand side. Considerable care +is always necessary in crossing, horizontally, a gully +filled with snow, where the rope is rather a source +of danger than of security. We had to give all +our attention to the passage, and when we reached +the rocks opposite, the climbing, though not formidable, +was still sufficiently difficult to occupy all our +thoughts for the moment, and we had but little leisure, +and perhaps but little inclination, for meteorological +observations. At the top of the rocks a promising +snow slope, stretching upwards with gentle curves and +sweeps, seemed to offer a fair prospect of rapid progress. +Such snow slopes are at all times a little +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page151">[pg 151]</span><a name="Pg151" id="Pg151" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>deceptive. Even when the climber is close to them they +look oftentimes much easier than they immediately +after prove to be. From a distance, say from under +the verandah of a comfortable hotel, when the climber +<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">in posse</span></span> indicates the way he would pursue with the +end of his cigar, they are absurdly easy. So, too, +are obstacles in the hunting-field, such as stiff hedges +and uncompromising gates, easy enough when the +Nimrod studies them as he whirls along in an express +train. Subsequently, when immediately associated +with a horse, these same obstacles assume a different +guise. Then are the sentiments of the hunter prone +to become modified, and compassion for dumb beasts +becomes more prominent in the <a name="corr151" id="corr151" class="tei tei-anchor"></a><span class="tei tei-corr">thoughtful</span> votary of +the chase, till finally it may be observed that the +little wits jump sometimes more than the great ones. +Even so does the mountaineer often discover, on a +nearer acquaintance that the snow incline up which he +proposed to stride merrily is inclined at a highly inconvenient +angle. However, at the commencement of +our slope we found the snow in good condition, and +advanced quickly for some little distance, but before +we had got very far it was necessary to resort to the +axe, and we had then ample opportunities of looking +round. The clouds were lowering more and more, +but as they were swept up by a sou’westerly wind, +the intervening mass of the mountain prevented us +from seeing thoroughly what might be in store for us. +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page152">[pg 152]</span><a name="Pg152" id="Pg152" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>The wind, too, was growing stronger every minute, +and my companion, who was still pursuing his argument, +and, as it appeared subsequently, making +some rather good points, had to exert himself considerably +in order to make his voice heard. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Presently we halted for a few minutes on some +spiky little rocks, and again looked about. The +weather prospects were just in that doubtful state that +prompts every member of the party to ask the others +what they think. Maurer looked exceedingly vacant and +made no remark. Jaun put a bit of snow in his mouth, +but declined to give an opinion. We, not to be outdone, +assumed very profound expressions, as if prepared to +find ourselves in the right whatever happened, but, +following the example of Lord Burleigh in the famous +tragedy, we said nothing either. At last, some one +suggested that we might go on for a little, and then +see. Accordingly we went on for a little, but then as +a matter of fact the mists swept up around us and +we did not see anything at all. It was, no doubt, +inconvenient that we were unable to penetrate with +our gaze to the regions above, but still we felt that +there was one slight counterbalancing advantage, for +there was present the haunting consciousness that +the gigantic telescope of Chamouni was pointed in +our direction, and at least the enveloping mist ensured +that privacy which is not always accorded to climbers +pursuing their pastime within range of these instruments +of science. +</p> + +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page153">[pg 153]</span><a name="Pg153" id="Pg153" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span class="tei tei-q"><span style="font-size: 80%">“</span><span style="font-size: 80%">From gay to grave</span><span style="font-size: 80%">”</span></span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +In the hope that the condition of the upper +snow might be good, and perhaps rather mistaken +in the height we had already reached, we made up +our minds to push on, with the view of reaching +at any rate the top of the ridge before the storm +broke. Every now and again a rent in the clouds +above, lasting for a few seconds, showed us that +the wind was blowing with great force, as thin clouds +of loose snow were swept up and whirled along the +face in curling wreaths. The spectacle might not, at +first sight, have been thought highly diverting: yet +as we pointed upwards to the ridge and watched the +racing snow-drifts driving over the slopes we were +making for, we all laughed very heartily. So universal +is the tendency to be amused at the sight of discomfort +that it even extends to the contemplation of its +occurring shortly to oneself. In the paulo-post-future +the experience is exhilarating: in the actual present +it is less laughter-moving. Laughter in the presence +of events that are, in the true sense of the word, +sensational, comes almost as a reflex action (to borrow +an expression from the physiologists), and the +sympathetic distress that follows takes an appreciable +time to develop. I can recall once being +a witness with some others of a ghastly accident +by which several people were precipitated, together +with a mass of broken timbers and débris of all sorts, +from a great height. A door was burst open and the +ruin met our eyes suddenly. To this day I can +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page154">[pg 154]</span><a name="Pg154" id="Pg154" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>remember sounds of laughter at the first view—hysterical +if you like to call it so, and not mirthful, but still +laughter. In a few seconds the realisation of what +had happened came, and then came the distress and +with it expressions of horror, as all worked manfully +to help and rescue the sufferers. The sequence of +emotions was perfectly natural, and only they who +have never passed through such an experience would +speak of inhumanity. There is no want of humanity +in the matter. The suddenness of the impression +begets the train of emotions, and the brain grasps the +facts but slowly. To take another instance: I have +been told by a man whose quickness and presence of +mind were remarkable—a man who as a schoolboy +won a Royal Humane Society’s medal—that on one +occasion he witnessed a friend fall over a staircase +from a great height. The accident was in the highest +degree unexpected: and the witness walked leisurely +on as if nothing had happened. But in a few seconds +came like a severe blow the sudden realisation of what +had taken place. Thought is not always quick. We +can no more exert our minds to their fullest capacity +on a sudden than we can put forth our utmost physical +strength on a sudden. Action when almost instantaneous +is independent of the higher mental faculties, +and is but a reflex. The experience of those who +have been in railway accidents will be of the same +nature. In climbing up a very steep or difficult place +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page155">[pg 155]</span><a name="Pg155" id="Pg155" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>if a man falls all are prepared more or less for such +an accident. The whole attention is given to guarding +against a probable contingency, and it follows that the +mind can instantly realise its occurrence. And that +such is the case I have been unlucky enough to +witness, though most fortunately the fall was attended +with no serious consequences. On the same principle, +to take a more trivial example, on difficult rocks +it is the rarest possible accident for a man to sprain +his ankle or knee. The muscles are always prepared +for a possible slip and kept in tension on the alert. On +the loose moraine, when walking leisurely or carelessly, +such an accident is a thousand times more likely to occur. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The storm breaks</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Our leader worked away with a will, but the snow got +harder at every step. The growing force of the wind, +which in nautical language had increased from that +vague degree known as a capful to the indefinite +force of a stiff breeze, and the increasing steepness of +the slope, compelled Jaun to make the steps larger +and larger as we ascended. It soon became evident +that the storm would overtake us long before we could +hope to get on to the ridge, and that we had deliberately +walked into something of a trap. The +steps had been cut so far apart that to descend by the +same line would have involved the construction of a +fresh staircase, and on actually turning, we found that +what was a stiff breeze behind us was a half gale when +it met our faces. It was certainly easier to go on +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page156">[pg 156]</span><a name="Pg156" id="Pg156" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>than to go back; so we went further and fared much +worse. The slope became steeper, the ice harder, +the half gale became a whole gale, and the delay +between each step seemed interminable. Suddenly, +as we passed from under the lee of a projecting slope +on our right, a tremendous gust of wind, which seemed +to have waited for a few moments in order to collect +its full forces, swept suddenly down and almost tore +us from our foothold. With that a torrent of hail fell, +and for a few moments we had enough to do to hold +on where we stood. Even my companion’s conversation +slackened. He had astutely selected a place in the +caravan immediately behind me, and as the gale was +blowing directly on our backs was enabled to fire off +his remarks and arguments without any possibility of +response. Anything that I said in answer was audible +only to our leader, who took not the smallest +interest in the discussion. Unfortunately, too, it was +difficult to listen with any attention; for as the gusts +came on we were forced to swing all our faces round like +chimney cowls instantly in the same direction. The +squalls became more frequent and more violent, the +thunder and lightning played around merrily, and as +the wind howled by we had to throw ourselves flat +against the slope, adopting the undignified attitudes +of a deer-stalker nearing the brow of a Scotch hill—attitudes +which bring somewhat unduly into prominence +the inadequate nature of the national costume. +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page157">[pg 157]</span><a name="Pg157" id="Pg157" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>Fortunately, as has been said, we were screened from +view; and our poses, though possibly ungraceful, were +at any rate uncriticised. The big hailstones, falling +softly around, filled up the steps as they were made, +and our feet were buried up to the ankles in a +moment. In a minute or two the hurricane +passed for the time; then we arose, shook ourselves, +smiled at nothing in particular, and the leader +would find time during the comparative lull to hack +out three or four fresh steps. Certain sounds, not +accounted for by the elements, coming up from below, +may have been suggestions or may have been arguments, +but they were knocked out of all intelligible +shape before they reached the head of the caravan. Not +even the porter at Lloyd’s or the captain of a merchantman +could have made himself audible in that cyclone. +Upwards we went, fighting for each step and for each +yard gained as hard as if we were storming a fortress. +Even while the leader had his axe in the air ready to +deliver a fresh blow a distant roar would betoken +another onslaught, and we instantly fell flat down like +tin soldiers struck with the well-directed pea, and disposed +ourselves at a convenient angle of resistance; +and so we went on, when we did go on at all. If the +relation is wearisome it is also realistic, for we found +that the actual experience was far from being lively; +but all things must have an end, including even the +<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">feuilleton</span></span> in a Parisian newspaper or the walk up to +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page158">[pg 158]</span><a name="Pg158" id="Pg158" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the Bel Alp on a hot day, and the termination came +almost unexpectedly. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A battle with the elements</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +We had got thoroughly tired of perpetually clinging +on by the simple force of adhesion to the storm-swept +slope, and felt almost inclined to give up the struggle +against the elements and to go straight on trusting to +chance. Maurer, below, wore the expression of frowning +discontent best seen in amateur tenors singing a +tender love ditty. Jaun had remarked half-a-dozen +times that the very next squall would infallibly sweep +us all away, and his cheerful prophetic utterances +really seemed on the point of being fulfilled, when, +almost suddenly, the snow seemed to vanish from +under our feet, and we found ourselves on the summit +of the ridge; at least directly above us no more ascent +appeared to present. It was difficult to realise adequately +the exact direction in which we were facing, +but I suppose that as the ridge runs about north and +south by the compass, we were facing a little south of +east. This was an important matter to decide, as the +mist was gathered thick around and the idea of descent +had to be at once considered now that we had got to +a position of some degree of definiteness. At our feet +the snow slope fell away in a manner so distinct that +we were without doubt really on the top of some portion +of the ridge. The difficulty was to estimate how +far to our right the summit of the Aiguille du Midi +itself lay. However, we felt with relief the truth of +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page159">[pg 159]</span><a name="Pg159" id="Pg159" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>somebody’s remark that we had at length succeeded +in getting somewhere; so far, no doubt, matters were +satisfactory. Howbeit, our pleasure was somewhat +modified by the discovery that the gale blew with considerably +more force on the south-east side than it did +on the one by which we had ascended. We looked +towards the south and endeavoured to gather our wits +together to elucidate the geographical problem that +presented. At the foot of the slope must lie the +upper basin of the Vallée Blanche and the Glacier de +Tacul; unfortunately there seemed to be a prodigious +storm going on in that basin, and clouds of loose +snow were whirling about in all directions. It was +impossible to understand these winds; one might +have thought that Æolus had just stepped out to +attend a committee meeting of the gods, and that all +his subordinates were having high jinks during his +absence. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Beating the air</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +The possibility of actually completing the ascent +of the mountain seemed out of the question, and +the hope that we might have crept under the +shelter of the ridge to the final little rock cone of +the Aiguille was literally thrown to the winds. Here +again, therefore, this narrative is highly unconventional, +for it is impossible to consult M. Roget’s +<span class="tei tei-q">“Thesaurus”</span> and indulge with its aid in any grandiloquent +description of the view from the summit, +although my account has now reached the stage at +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page160">[pg 160]</span><a name="Pg160" id="Pg160" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>which such word painting ought properly to be inserted. +We turned to our right, the direction in +which the peak lay, and walked some little way along +the ridge till we got under shelter of a rock; now we +were able once more to stand upright and, huddled +together, took the opportunity which had been denied +to us for some hours to interchange views. All agreed +that the situation was vile; that word, at least, may be +taken as the resultant of the various forcible epithets +actually employed. All agreed that the cold was +intense, the prospect doubtful, and the panorama <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">nil</span></span>. +There was but one redeeming feature: extreme discomfort +will reveal humour in those in whom that +quality would not be expected <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">a priori</span></span> to find a dwelling-place, +and to each one of us the spectacle of his +three wobegone companions seemed to afford, if not +amusement, at least an inkling of complacency. +Maurer removed the pack from his shoulders, and it +was then perceived that our cup of misery was full, +and our sole remaining bottle of wine completely +empty. We had originally started with two, one white +and one red, of an inferior and indigestible quality, +but had left the white wine down below on the snow; +we had previously drunk it. The other bottle had +broken against some projecting rock in climbing up, +and the resulting leakage had led to the formation of +a very large circular red patch in the small of Maurer’s +back, wherever that anatomical region might be +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page161">[pg 161]</span><a name="Pg161" id="Pg161" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>situated in our squat and sturdy little guide. After +muttering together in patois for a little while the +guides seized their axes and suddenly commenced with +great vigour to hack out a large hole in the ice. We +fell to also, and for some few minutes all worked away +with the best of good will; the splinters and little +blocks of ice flew around under our blows, and before +long we had excavated a flat basin capable of holding +water. At the least, the exercise had the effect of +warming us, and Maurer, who previously, from the +effects of the cold, had been the colour of a congested +alderman in the face, gradually assumed a more +healthy hue. We now inquired what the object might +be of preparing this cavern. Thereupon Jaun gave vent +to the ingenious suggestion that we had better remain +where we were and sleep in it. The idea seemed too +likely to lead to permanent repose to be commendable, +and we received his proposition, as befitted its nature, +with some coolness, remarking that on the whole we +should prefer to go home. This view led to further +conversation; ultimately we descended a few feet on +the south-east side and then made our way along the +face of the slope in a south-westerly direction towards +the hut on the Aiguille du Midi. The snow was soft, +and we went on for some distance without difficulty, +till we again reached the ridge on the south-west side of +the Aiguille, having thus passed round the base of +the final peak of the mountain, which consists of a +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page162">[pg 162]</span><a name="Pg162" id="Pg162" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>comparatively small rocky cone jutting up from the main +ridge. We were still of course a long way from the hut, +but as in this situation we were much more sheltered, we +took the opportunity to review the state of affairs and +to consider our position, which for the moment, like +that of the pocket of a lady’s ball dress, was indeterminate. +What were we to do? As with the diners +at <span class="tei tei-q">“Prix fixe”</span> restaurant, there were three courses for +us: we might go down on one side, we might descend +on the other side, or we might remain where we were. +The latter alternative was as distasteful now as it had +been just previously, and it was negatived decisively. +<span class="tei tei-q">“Very good,”</span> said the guides; <span class="tei tei-q">“if you won’t stay here +we must go down that way,”</span> and they pointed in a +direction westerly by the compass. My companion +and I were opposed to this plan for two reasons: one +that the route would, if it led anywhere in particular, +take us down to the Glacier des Bossons, where we did +not want to go, the other that by reason of the +marvellous fury of the hurricane it would have been +altogether impossible to follow at all the line indicated. +We were only in fact able to dart out from under +shelter of the rock and peer down into the misty +depths for a few seconds at a time, for the gale took +our breath away as completely as in the <span class="tei tei-q">“cavern of +the winds”</span> at Niagara. To have climbed down a new +and difficult rock cliff in the face of the numbing cold +would have been little short of suicidal. +</p> + +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page163">[pg 163]</span><a name="Pg163" id="Pg163" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Descent down Vallée Blanche</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +It is Artemus Ward, I think, who describes the +ingenious manner in which Baron Trenck, of prison-breaking +fame, escaped on one occasion from durance +vile. For fifteen long years the Baron had lain +immured, and had tried in vain to carry out all the +sensational methods of escape ever suggesting themselves +to his fertile brain. At last an idea occurred to +him. He opened the door and walked out. By an +intellectual effort of almost equal brilliancy and +originality we solved the difficulty that beset us: we +turned towards the south-east and walked quietly +down the slope for a hundred feet or so. Simplicity +of thought is characteristic of great minds. Why, +nevertheless, it had not occurred to us before to escape +by this line I can no more explain than I can give the +reason why all the ladies in a concert-room smile, as +one woman, when a singer of their own sex makes her +appearance on the platform, or why itinerant harp +players always wear tall hats. Immediately the complexion +of affairs brightened up. The wind was much +less furious than it had been on the ridge, and the hail +was replaced by snow. Jaun now gave it as his +opinion that the best line of descent would consist in +crossing round the head of the Vallée Blanche and +the upper slopes of the Glacier du Géant, so as to join +the ordinary route leading from the Col du Géant to +the Montanvert. But in the thick mist it would have +been far from easy to hit off the right track, and we +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page164">[pg 164]</span><a name="Pg164" id="Pg164" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>thought it possible to make a short cut to the same +end, and to find a way directly down the Vallée +Blanche towards the rocks known as the Petit +Rognon. We had no compass with us, but the direction +of the slope indicated the proper line of descent +to follow. In most years it would not be easy to +discover the way through the complicated crevasses of +the ice-fall situated between the <span class="tei tei-q">“Rognon”</span> and the +easterly rocks of the Aiguille du Midi; but in 18— so +much snow had fallen early in the spring and so little +had melted during the summer, that we experienced +comparatively little difficulty in descending almost in +a straight line. During this part of the expedition +the good qualities of our guides showed once more to +advantage. Unquestionably while on the ridge they +had put forward suggestions which were rather wild +in character, and which were proved now to be mistaken. +The intense cold and the beating of the storm +seemed rather to have paralysed their usually calm +judgment, and it is an odd fact that guides, even when +first rate, are oftentimes more affected by such conditions +than are the amateurs whom they conduct. +We could no more, with such experience as we +possessed, have led the way aright as our leader did +with unerring sagacity, than an untutored person +could write out a full orchestra score. We could only +insist on a given line being taken if in their judgment +it were possible. Once fairly started, we felt that we +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page165">[pg 165]</span><a name="Pg165" id="Pg165" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>must push our plan through, employing the same +form of argument as the man did in support of a +bold statement that a certain beaver, closely pursued +by a dog, had climbed up a tree. It was not a +question now whether we could do it, or could not do +it; we had to do it. The day was far spent, there +was possibly much difficult work before us, and the +exertion already undergone had been tolerably severe. +The temptation was therefore great rather to scamp the +work of finding the best and safest track through the +ice-fall, but our leader displayed as much care and +thoroughness as if he were strolling over snow slopes +with a critical Chamouni guide behind him. A +momentary glimpse of the familiar form of the +Aiguille du Géant right in front of us confirmed the +judgment that we were on the right track. In +descending the ice-fall we passed to the right of the +Petit Rognon, and at the base of the Séracs halted and +thought we would have something to eat. Maurer produced +our stock of provisions, which consisted of one +roll studded with little bits of broken glass and reduced +by the action of wine and water to the consistence +of a poultice. The refection was, therefore, as unsatisfactory +as a meal out of a loosely tied nosebag to a +cab horse. And now for another departure from time-honoured +custom. All mountain narratives at this +period of the day make reference to the use of tobacco, +the well-earned pipe, and so forth. But the sleety rain, +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page166">[pg 166]</span><a name="Pg166" id="Pg166" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>which for the last hour and a half had replaced the +snow, had soaked everything so thoroughly that an +attempt to carry out the orthodox proceeding did not, +like most failures, end in smoke. So we trudged on +again empty and unsolaced. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A scanty repast</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +As the shades of night were falling, four dripping and +woe-begone travellers might, to borrow the novelist’s +common mode of expression, have been observed +toiling up the steep path towards the old Montanvert +hotel—that is, they might have been observed by anybody +who was foolish enough to be out of doors on +such a detestable evening. We entered the familiar +little room, an ingenious compound of a toyshop and +a barrack, and notwithstanding that we were viewed +with marked disfavour by the other guests therein +assembled in consequence of our moist and steamy +condition, we seated ourselves and called for refreshment. +The atmosphere in the stuffy den called the +salon was a trifle pungent, and having contributed a +little additional dampness to the apartment we set off +again. That familiar old room with its odd collection +of curiosities, in which the fare was on the whole +more disproportionate to the price than at any +other institution of a similar kind in the mountains, +has ceased to exist long ago. I fancy that it did not +require much pulling down. It is happily replaced +now by one of the best managed and most comfortable +mountain hotels to be found in the Alps, a sure sign +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page167">[pg 167]</span><a name="Pg167" id="Pg167" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>of which attraction is to be found in the fact that it is, +at any rate, spoken of with disfavour by the inhabitants +of the village below or by such as do not hold shares. +Another hour’s descent and we passed through the few +scattered houses just outside Chamouni. The attractions +on the way down had not diverted us from our stern +purpose of reaching Couttet’s hotel as soon as possible. +We had politely declined the invitation of a perennially +knitting young woman to view a live chamois. The +spasmodic smile called up by each approaching tourist +faded from her countenance as we passed by. Four +times did we decline the gentle refreshment of <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">limonade +gazeuse</span></span>, once did we sternly refuse to partake +of strawberries, and twice to purchase crystals. It +was dark as we neared the town; it may have been my +fancy, but I cannot help thinking that I perceived our +old friend the blind beggar with the lugubrious expression +which he wore when on duty, and with the tall +hat which served the purpose of an alms’-box, and +which he did not wear when on duty, enjoying himself +in a very merry manner by the side of a blazing fire. +Notwithstanding that night had fallen there was still +a little group by the bridge round the one-armed telescope +man, anxiously crowding to hear the last news +of the two insane Englishmen who had without doubt +perished that day miserably on the rocks of the Midi. +A project had already been started to organise an expedition +on the morrow to search for the bodies; and +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page168">[pg 168]</span><a name="Pg168" id="Pg168" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>we might very possibly, if we had cared for the excitement, +have been allowed to join the party. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A projected expedition</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +As in a play the most striking situation is by +the discreet author reserved to the conclusion, so in +this contradictory chapter the most glaring deficiency +comes now at the end. My readers, if they have +generously followed me so far, will recognise that we +not only went on something of a fool’s errand, +incurring considerable difficulty and perhaps risk in +that mission, but that we never got up the mountain +at all. The force of contradictoriness can no +further go. Still, it may be pointed out that we did +actually accomplish all that was novel in the expedition. +Once on the ridge, the remaining portion +of the climb is, in fine weather, easy and well known, +so the fact that the Aiguille du Midi can be ascended +by this line by any one consumed with an ambition to +do so, is beyond doubt. We were not probably at one +point more than twenty minutes or half an hour from +the actual summit. I cannot honestly advise anybody +to follow our tracks; but in all probability, if someone +should desire to do so, he need not, under favourable +conditions, contemplate meeting with any unsurmountable +difficulties. +</p> +<a name="fig169" id="fig169" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/illo_189.jpg" alt="The Aiguille du Dru from the South" title="THE AIGUILLE DU DRU FROM THE SOUTH" /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">THE AIGUILLE DU DRU<br /> +<span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 75%">FROM THE SOUTH</span></span></div></div> + +</div><hr class="page" /><div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page169">[pg 169]</span><a name="Pg169" id="Pg169" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> +<a name="toc15" id="toc15"></a> + <a name="pdf16" id="pdf16"></a> +<h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"><span style="font-size: 173%">CHAPTER VI.</span></h1> + +<h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"><span style="font-size: 144%">ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE DU DRU</span></h1> + +<div class="tei tei-epigraph" style="text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 9.00em"><p class="tei tei-p" style="text-align: right; margin-bottom: 0.90em"> +<span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: right"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: right"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-style: italic">Decies repetita placebit</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span> +</p></div> + +<div class="tei tei-argument" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em"><p class="tei tei-p" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 0.90em"><span style="font-size: 90%"> +Disadvantages of narratives of personal adventure—Expeditions on +the Aiguille du Dru in 1874—The ridge between the Aiguilles du +Dru and Verte—</span><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Défendu de passer par là</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">—Distance lends +enchantment—Other climbers attack the peak—View of the +mountain from the Col de Balme—We try the northern side, +and fail more signally than usual—Showing that mountain fever is +of the recurrent type—We take seats below, but have no opportunity +of going up higher—The campaign opens—We go under canvas—A +spasmodic start, and another failure—A change of tactics +and a new leader—Our sixteenth attempt—Sports and pastimes +at Chamouni—The art of cray-fishing—The apparel oft proclaims +the man—A canine acquaintance—A new ally—The turning +point of the expedition—A rehearsal for the final performance—A +difficult descent—A blank in the narrative—A carriage misadventure—A +penultimate failure—We start with two guides +and finish with one—The rocks of the Dru—Maurer joins the +party—Our nineteenth attempt—A narrow escape in the gully—The +arête at last—The final scramble—Our foe is vanquished +and decorated—The return journey—Benighted—A moonlight +descent—We are graciously received—On </span><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">fair</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%"> mountaineering—The +prestige of new peaks—Chamouni becomes festive—</span><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Heut’ +Abend grosses Feuerwerkfest</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">—Chamouni dances and shows +hospitality—The scene closes in. +</span></p></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +It is to some extent an unfortunate circumstance that +in a personal narrative of adventure the result is +practically known from the very beginning. The only +uncertainty that can exist is the actual pattern on +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page170">[pg 170]</span><a name="Pg170" id="Pg170" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>which the links of the chain are united together, for +the climax is from the outset a foregone conclusion. +The descriptive account will inevitably conduct the +reader along a more or less mazy path to an assured +goal. There is certainly one other variety, but that +takes the less satisfactory form of an obituary notice. +Even in a thoroughly well-acted play a perceptible +shudder runs through the audience when two actors +select each a chair, draw them down to the footlights, +and one announces <span class="tei tei-q">“’Tis now some fourteen years +ago.”</span> The expression in its pristine dramatic simplicity +may still be heard in transpontine theatres, +but modern realism insists usually on a paraphrase. +The audience cannot but feel, however thrilling the +story to be told, that at any rate the two players have +survived the adventures they have to narrate, and on +the whole a good many wish they hadn’t. There sit +the heroes, and exert themselves as they will their +recital is apt to fall somewhat flat. In like manner I +will not attempt to conceal the fact that the ultimate +result of our numerous attempts on the peak which +forms the subject of this chapter was that we got up it, +and the fact may also be divulged that we came down +again, and in safety. Indeed, it seems difficult now to +realise the length of time during which our ultimate +success oscillated in the balance—at one time appearing +hopeless, at another problematical, at times almost +certain, and then again apparently out of our reach. +</p> + +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page171">[pg 171]</span><a name="Pg171" id="Pg171" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Expeditions on the Aig. du Dru</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +In 1874, with two guides, of whom Alexander +Burgener was one, we started for the Montanvert +with the intention of making for the ridge between the +Aiguille du Dru and the Aiguille Verte, with the object +of further investigating the route which Messrs. +Pendlebury, Kennedy and Marshall had essayed on an +occasion already described, when the bad condition +of the rocks frustrated their hopes. The mountain +was probably in a very different state on this occasion, +and we experienced no very great difficulty in discovering +a fairly easy route up the rocks. The chief +trouble consisted in the fact that the rock gully by +which the ascent is chiefly made was extensively plastered +over with ice, a condition in which we nearly +always found it. The last part of the climb up to +the ridge affords a most splendid scramble. The face +is so steep on either side that the climber comes quite +suddenly to a position whence he overlooks the +northern slope, if slope it may be called, and looks +down on to the Glacier du Nant Blanc. Seen in grey +shadow, or half shrouded in shifting mists and coloured +only with half-tints, the precipice is magnificent; huge +sheets of clear ice coat its flanks, and the almost unbroken +descent of rock affords as striking a spectacle +as the mountaineer fond of wild desolation can well +picture. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-left: 2.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> +<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">If you would see this slope aright,</div> +<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Look at it by the pale grey light.</div> +</div> + +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page172">[pg 172]</span><a name="Pg172" id="Pg172" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +On the left the mass of the Aiguille du Dru cuts +off the view of the fertile regions; far away on the right +the huge tapering towers of rock form a massive foreground +stretching away to the base of the Aiguille +Verte. The spectator too seems strangely shut off, +so that, gazing around, on either side he can see +but a narrow extent of the mountain. We looked +down and did not like what we saw; we looked up and +liked it less. The day was fine and the mountain in +good condition. I can recall now that our eyes must +have wandered over the very route that ultimately +proved to be the right one, and yet to none of us that +afternoon did it appear in the least degree possible. +Unquestionably the crags of the Aiguille du Dru looked +formidable enough from this point of view, and we +could not but think that nature must have provided +some easier mode of access to the summit than this +face seemed to afford. We climbed along the ridge till +we were almost against the face of the mountain, but +then we had to turn our gaze so directly upwards that +matters looked still worse. Then we faced about and +climbed in the other direction. The rocks seemed to +grow bigger and bigger the more we looked at them. +What the guides actually thought I do not quite know, +but at the moment my own impression was that it +would be impossible to ascend more than two or three +hundred feet: so we turned and came back. Even +while we yet descended the thought came that this +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page173">[pg 173]</span><a name="Pg173" id="Pg173" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>face of the mountain was perhaps not so utterly hopeless +as it had appeared a few minutes previously, and +in my own mind I decided that, should we fail in discovering +some much more promising line from another +point of view, we would at least return to the ridge +often enough to familiarise ourselves with this aspect +of the mountain, with the idea that such familiarity +if it did not succeed in breeding contempt might at +least give birth to a more sanguine frame of mind. +The farther we got from our point of view the more +hopeful did the mental impression seem to become, +and by the time we reached Chamouni we had all +separately arrived at the conclusion—somewhat +selfish perhaps, but justifiable under the circumstances—that +if asked what we thought of the +possibility of ascending by the face we had tried, we +would give honestly the opinion we had formed while +on the ridge, and not the opinion at which we had +arrived subsequently. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Other climbers attack the peak</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Other explorers were meanwhile at work on the +mountain, but so far as I could learn all their +attempts were made on the south-western peak. At +any rate they followed more or less the line we had +first struck out. Some thought that the lower peak +alone was feasible, others that the higher peak was +attainable only from the south-western side. So +thought Mr. E. R. Whitwell; so again, Mr. J. Birkbeck, +jun., both of whom reached probably a much +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page174">[pg 174]</span><a name="Pg174" id="Pg174" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>higher point on the south-western face than we succeeded +in obtaining in 1873. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +In 1875 we were making our way once more by +the Col de Balme to Chamouni, and being in somewhat +of a reflective mood, induced by the consumption of a +soup-tureen full of bread and milk at the hotel at the top +of the pass, we sought a shady spot hard by whence a +good view of the Aiguille du Dru could be obtained, and +contemplated the precipices as seen from this point of +view. The northern slope leading up to the ridge over +which we had looked lay well before us. The upper +part of the mountain looked distinctly different as far +as accessibility was concerned. It seemed just possible, +if a way could only be found up from the level of +the ridge to a certain ledge some distance above, that +the final mass might be feasible. There appeared +to be a sort of gully sloping upwards in a direction +curved away from us, in which the snow lay so thick +that the rocks on either side could not, we thought, +be very steep. At the least it seemed to be worth +our while to make for this gully, which was obviously +unattainable from the ridge itself, for it was here cut +off by a belt of straight rock. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">We try the northern side</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +A few days later we carried the idea into effect. It +was necessary to engage some one to carry the tent, +and Burgener was deputed to search for a porter of a +willing disposition and suitable physical conformation. +Presently he came back in company with a shambling +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page175">[pg 175]</span><a name="Pg175" id="Pg175" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>youth of great length of limb and somewhat lanky +frame. We inquired if he were willing to come with +us, whereupon the young man was seized with violent +facial contortions, and we perceived that he suffered +from an impediment in his speech. Not wishing to +render him nervous by our presence, we took a short +turn in the garden, leaving him where he stood. On +our return the young man’s efforts culminated in the +remark, <span class="tei tei-q">“How much?”</span> We said, <span class="tei tei-q">“Twenty-five francs,”</span> +and then started off to consult the barometer. On +coming back after this interval we found that the +young man had just previously succeeded in articulating +<span class="tei tei-q">“Yes.”</span> The practical result of this one-sided +colloquy was that the next day the tall young man +was laden with the tent, with directions to carry it +up to a point immediately opposite the Montanvert +below the Glacier du Nant Blanc. The tall young +man shouldered his burden and started off with +great activity. We followed him somewhat later +under the rather transparent pretence of going to +hunt for crystals next day. Making our way up by +a long ridge lying between the Glacier du Nant +Blanc and a little snow patch dignified in some maps +by the appellation of the Glacier du Dru, we skirted +round the base of the Aiguille looking constantly +upwards to find some practicable line of ascent, and +hoping that we might discover one which would conduct +us up on to the main mass of the mountain +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page176">[pg 176]</span><a name="Pg176" id="Pg176" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>before we had got opposite to the point by which we +had made our ascent from the southern side. It soon +became evident that we were very unlikely to find +a way. Far above jutted out a little horizontal table +of rock. Burgener observed that if we could only get +there it would be something. So far his remarks did +not appear inaccurate, but it was perfectly clear before +long that there was no chance of getting any higher, +supposing we could get on to this platform; yet a +little further, and we perceived that we could not even +get to it. Ultimately we discovered that the platform +itself was an optical delusion. It did not seem worth +while to make any attempt to reach the summit of +the ridge from the side we were on, even if we could +have done so, which I doubt. The day may come +when the climber will seek to discover some variation +to the route up the peak; but mountaineering skill +will indeed have improved out of all knowledge if +anyone ever succeeds in getting up this northern face. +From every point of view we surveyed it, and from every +point of view, in our opinion, it was equally impossible. +So in the evening we came back once more +to the tent, from the door of which protruded a pair +of thick boots. These encased the feet articulated to +the lanky legs of the tall young man, who had been +enjoying a siesta of some ten or twelve hours’ duration. +Kicking gently at a prominent bulging of the +canvas on the opposite side to the door had the +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page177">[pg 177]</span><a name="Pg177" id="Pg177" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>effect of waking our slumbrous friend, who was exceedingly +sarcastic at our want of success; so, at +least, we judged by his expression of countenance. +For a long while his efforts yielded no verbal result. +But his words seemed as it were to stick fast in an +endeavour to bring them out three or four abreast +through a portal that was capable only of allowing +egress to them in single file. Of a sudden the jostling +syllables broke down the obstructing barrier, and he +startled us by pouring forth a string of remarks with +precipitate volubility. Knowing, however, that it +would be some time before we could hope to try the +peak again, we were not loth to leave him under the +impression, to be communicated to his friends at +Chamouni, that we had come to the conclusion that +the mountain was inaccessible. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The mountain fever recurs</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +It was not till 1878 that we were able to revisit +once more the scene of our many failures. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +During the winter months, however, the thought +of the stubborn Aiguille had been from time to time +discussed, and when J. Oakley Maund and I came +back to Chamouni we had very serious intentions. +This time we were both possessed with one fixed determination +with regard to the Aiguille. Either we +would get up to the top or, at the worst, would, as far +as lay in our power, prove that it was inaccessible by +any line of attack. By my wish, our first attempts +were to be made by the old route leading towards the +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page178">[pg 178]</span><a name="Pg178" id="Pg178" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>lower peak; not that we were very sanguine of succeeding +by this line of ascent, but rather because we +felt that no very great amount of exploration would +be necessary to determine whether the higher point +could or could not be reached from this side; but +though our intentions were good we were scarcely +prepared for the difficulties that met us from the +beginning. The elements seemed to have set their +faces against us. Time after time when all was +ready for a start we were baulked by snow, wind, or +rain. Day after day we sat waiting in vain for the +favourable moment, sometimes at our bivouac high +up above the Mer de Glace, by the side of the Glacier +de la Charpoua, till hope deferred and a series +of <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">table d’hôte</span></span> dinners combined with want of +exercise to make the heart sick and the individual +despondently dyspeptic. Perhaps the wind would +shift round a point or two towards the north and a +couple of fine days occur. Straightway we set off for +the tent which we left concealed at the bivouac. +Then came the rain again, and we had to return +soaked and dejected. Sometimes it rained before +we got to the Montanvert and sometimes after, and in +fact we seemed to be making perpetually fitful excursions +from the kitchen fire at the Montanvert to that +at Couttet’s hotel. On hydropathic principles we +found the state of the elements no mean form of cure +for the mountain fever. Still, like the hungry butler, +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page179">[pg 179]</span><a name="Pg179" id="Pg179" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>we reflected that everything comes to him who waits, +and seizing every possible opportunity did manage to +achieve some climbing during the rare intervals of +moderately favourable weather. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The campaign opens</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +The campaign was opened with an attempt made +with Jaun and Andreas Maurer as guides. A youth +of hollow visage and weak joints (a relation, possibly, +of our friend with the one defective articulation), who +did not much enter into the spirit of the expedition, +and who seemed by his expression to echo Hamlet’s +interrogation as to the necessity of bearing fardels, +carried our tent up to the grass slopes by the +Charpoua glacier. Here, on a smooth, level patch +of turf surrounded on three sides by rocks, we established +a little country seat, though we scarcely realised +on this first occasion how often it would be our lot +to run up and spend the night there, and to return +to town the following morning. There are many +and excellent camping places about these slopes; dry +dwarf rhododendron bushes abound, and water is +plentiful. There was no difficulty in rising early the +next morning, for at some time in the small hours the +spindle-legged porter was seized with terrible cramp. +Under ordinary circumstances his lower limbs were +imperfectly under his control, and when thus affected +they became perfectly ungovernable, so that the +neat order in which we had disposed ourselves overnight +for slumber was rudely disarranged, and we +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page180">[pg 180]</span><a name="Pg180" id="Pg180" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>were forced to rise and turn out till the spasms +should have subsided. Under the influence of gentle +friction the spasms quieted down, and when we left +he was troubled only with a few twitching kicks, such +as may be observed in a dreaming dog. At 2 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> +we started and wended our way up the glacier, every +step of which seemed familiar. To our surprise +and delight the snow was in first-rate order, and +our spirits rose at the prospect of a good climb; +but the time had not yet come for success, and our +hopes were soon to be dashed. There was still an +immense amount of snow on the lower rock slopes +over which access to the south-western peak is alone +possible, and this snow was in a highly treacherous +condition. Before we had ascended many feet the +guides very properly refused to go on, a determination +with which we felt ourselves bound to acquiesce. +They pointed out that it would be unwarrantably +dangerous to descend late in the afternoon over deep +snow, soft, and but loosely adhering to the rocks. +Under such conditions it is of course impossible to +judge of the foothold, and there is nothing to hold on +to with the hands. There was no other alternative, +therefore, if we were to follow this route, than to wait +till more of the snow should have melted, or else to +find a track where the rocks were bare. As far as we +could ascertain, however, there was no such track to +be seen. We decided to go back, but still remained at +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page181">[pg 181]</span><a name="Pg181" id="Pg181" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>Chamouni, for we durst not lose a single favourable +opportunity. With an imperturbability bred of long +experience did we meet the sniggers and sneers of +certain croakers below, who looked with an unfavourable +eye on our proceedings. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A new leader</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Within the next fortnight we made two further +attempts by much the same route and with the same +guides, but only succeeded in going far enough to +prove that the opinion of the guides was perfectly +correct with regard to the state of the snow. Already +matters seemed to justify some gloomy doubt as to +whether we could carry out even the exploratory +part of our programme, for Jaun was compelled to +leave us in order to fulfil another engagement, and +we scarcely knew where to turn to find another man +capable of guiding us in the way we desired to go. +Still our determination was unshaken by our run of +ill-luck. We would not give it up. With no more +definite object than that of justifying an impending +<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">table d’hôte</span></span> dinner, I was walking up the Montanvert +path one rainy afternoon, when a ray of sunlight +suddenly burst upon me in the person of Alexander +Burgener. He had come over the Col du Géant with +a party of travellers, and to our delight was not only +disengaged, but exceedingly anxious to attack once +more, or, in fact, as often as we liked, the obstinate +Aiguille. From the moment that he assumed the +chief command matters began to wear a different +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page182">[pg 182]</span><a name="Pg182" id="Pg182" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>complexion, for we learnt that he had taken every +opportunity to consider and study the mountain. By +his advice a complete change of tactics was adopted. +We decided to abandon all idea of attacking the +lower peak, and made up our minds to try the higher +summit by the route we had first followed four years +previously. We had often discussed together our +chances of success on this peak, and had often come +to the conclusion that its ascent was more than +doubtful. But now Burgener was so positive of ultimate +triumph, and so confident in his own powers, +not only of getting up himself, but of getting us also +to our goal, that the whole matter seemed placed +before us in a different light. We might have to +wait, we might have to try many times, but still we +could not but believe the impression that now gradually +formed that we must ultimately succeed. To +the spirit which Burgener displayed that year, and +which he imbued in us (at a time when it must be +confessed that such a spirit was much wanted, for +we were as downcast as water-cure patients during +the process), and to his sagacity and great guiding +qualities, the whole of our ultimate success was due. +I knew that, as a guide, he was immeasurably superior +to an amateur in his trained knack of finding the +way, and that in quickness on rocks the two could +hardly be compared. But previously it had always +seemed to me that the amateur excelled in one great +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page183">[pg 183]</span><a name="Pg183" id="Pg183" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>requisite, viz., pluck. Let this record show that in +one instance at least this estimate was erroneous, for +had it not been for Burgener’s indomitable pluck we +should never have succeeded in climbing the Aiguille +du Dru. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Our sixteenth attempt</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Burgener was of opinion that from the summit of +the actual ridge lying east of the higher peak, and +between it and the Aiguille Verte, it was not feasible +to ascend on to the face of the mountain, and he +proposed accordingly that we should commence by +making a study of the rocks lying to the left of the +main gully running up to this same ridge, endeavouring +if possible to discover some point where we could +bear off to the left on to the real mass of the mountain. +In addition he pointed out that the upper rocks +might be very difficult and require much time (as we +had already agreed together in previous years that +they were altogether impossible, this remark seemed +probable enough), and it was important therefore to +discover the easiest and quickest way up the lower part +of the rock slopes. Accordingly we departed—and +this was our sixteenth attempt—from the Montanvert +one morning at 1 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> We had long since cultivated +a manner of going about our business in such a way +as to avoid the gaze of the curious, and set forth on +this occasion in much the same spirit that burglars +adopt when on evil errands intent. The day was entirely +spent as agreed in studying the lower rocks and +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page184">[pg 184]</span><a name="Pg184" id="Pg184" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>working out accurately the most feasible line of assault. +But though we ascended on this occasion to no very +great height we were perpetually engaged in climbing, +and the quantity of snow which still lay on the rocks +rendered progress difficult and care necessary. Still +it was no haphazard exploration that we were engaged +in, and the spirit of deliberation in which we +began begat a spirit of hopefulness as we went on. +A fancied insufficiency of guiding strength, coupled +with a decidedly insufficient supply of rope and an +inherent idea that the new line of assault contemplated +was not to be worked out to an end at the first +attempt, all combined to drive us back to Chamouni +late the same evening. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Sports and pastimes</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Après cela le déluge</span></span>, and for a long time high mountaineering +of any description was out of the question. +Desperate were the attempts we made to amuse ourselves, +and to while away the time. Sports and +pastimes within the limited area of the hotel premises +were the fashion for a time. The courtyard in front of +Couttet’s hotel was made into a lawn-tennis ground. +The village stores being ransacked yielded a limited +supply of parti-coloured india-rubber balls; the village +carpenter constructed bats out of flat pieces of wood, +and we sought to forget the unpropitious elements by +playing morning, noon, and night. As a result several +windows and a lamp were reduced to ruin. Then we +went a-crayfishing. A basket carriage, which was +con<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page185">[pg 185]</span><a name="Pg185" id="Pg185" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>structed apparently of iron sheeting, but painted over +with a wicker-work pattern in order to deceive a flea-bitten +grey steed of great age with the impression that +it was very light, conveyed us to Châtelard, which by a +twofold inaccuracy was termed the fishing-ground, our +object being to catch animals which were not fish and +lived in water. There the sport began, and was conducted +on this wise. Sticks with a cleft at the end, +into which nondescript pieces of ill-smelling meat +were wedged, were submerged in a little brook to tempt +the prey, but the only bites we got were from the +horse-flies and inflicted on our own persons; howbeit, +one or two of the party when at a distance from their +fellow-sportsmen averred that they had been on a +point of catching monsters of the deep the size of +lobsters. We did not discover till subsequently that, +led astray by a plausible peasant possessed of riparian +rights and untruthful propensities, we had been fishing +(or <span class="tei tei-q">“crustaceaning,”</span> to speak correctly) all day in a +stream untenanted by any crayfish whatever, the +result being that we caught a chill and nothing else. +The ancient steed, moreover, though he bowled along +merrily enough down the hill to Châtelard and required +no more stimulus than an occasional chirrup +from the driver afforded, was yet very loth to draw +the party back up the hill at the same pace, and +required such constant stimulation of a more active +kind on the way back that it was found necessary +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page186">[pg 186]</span><a name="Pg186" id="Pg186" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>before we reached the village to stop and smooth out +the creases on his sides. The next day the report +came that the spotted grey was <span class="tei tei-q">“très malade,”</span> and the +next day too my right arm was excessively stiff. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +A subsequent sporting expedition yielded happier +results. One of the party, gifted with diplomatic talents +and a power of detecting the vulnerable points in the +character of the natives, purchased, for the sum of +one franc, information from a shockheaded juvenile +suffering from a skin eruption as to the best stocked +streams. Then did the deep yield up its carnivorous +denizens. Artfully and in silence did the anglers wait +for their prey to claw the reeking bait. Deftly and +warily did they withdraw the rod, sometimes with two +or three victims clinging in a bunch, and land the spoil +on the bank. Then would the crayfish loosen their +hold, roll over on their backs, flap their tails very +briskly, and start off with amazing rapidity for short +country walks, speedily to be captured and consigned +to the recesses of a receptacle, bearing a suspicious resemblance +to Madame Couttet’s work-basket. Ultimately +they formed the basis of a <span class="tei tei-q">“bisque”</span> not unworthy +of Brébant. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Apparel oft proclaims the man</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +What time the india-rubber balls were all burst +and the fishing-ground had lost its attraction, seated +on a tilted chair beneath the verandah we fell a-musing +and studied human nature, and the various types that +presented day after day round and about the hotel. +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page187">[pg 187]</span><a name="Pg187" id="Pg187" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>Much was there to marvel at in many of the costumes, +to many of which the late Mr. Planché himself would +have been unable to assign a date. It has been +noticed of course, times out of mind, as a characteristic +of the Briton, that a costume in which he would not +go coal-heaving at home is considered good enough +for Sunday in the Alps. One gentleman indeed, +whose own apparel would have been considered untidy +even if he had been a member of a shipwrecked crew, +had been enlarging on this topic with much fervour, +to a select audience, dwelling especially on the discourtesy +thus shown to the natives of the country. I +looked, when Sunday came, that he should be clad in +raiment of more than ordinary fitness and splendour, +but the only changes that I could perceive from the +week-day vesture consisted in a tall hat, which somebody +had mistaken for an opera hat on some occasion, +and a long strip of rag wound round a cut finger, +while his wife, who had recently been on the glaciers, +appeared in a low cut dress, so that she presented a +curious piebald appearance. The lateness of the season +may have accounted for the fact that many of the garments +seemed rapidly to be resolving into their pristine +condition of warp and woof, especially about the region +where it is usual in the Alps to light the poison-darting +lucifer matches of the country. There were flannel +shirts with collars on some, and flannel shirts without +them on others, while yet a third set wore white +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page188">[pg 188]</span><a name="Pg188" id="Pg188" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>chokers round their necks made of vulcanite, so that +they looked like favourite pug-dogs, or fashioned of a +shiny paper, which obviously had no more to do with +the garment with which they were temporarily associated +than the label of an expensive wine at a second-rate +restaurant has to do with the contents of the bottle. +Then we fell to anatomical study, and marvelled at +the various imperfections of development the muscle +known to the learned as the gastrocnemius<a id="noteref_4" name="noteref_4" href="#note_4"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">4</span></span></a> could +exhibit in the legs of our countrymen, and wondered +why they took such pains in their costume to display +its usually unsymmetrical proportions, and wondered +too if they really believed that a double folding back +of the upper part of the stocking below the knickerbocker +deceived anyone with an appearance of mighty +thews. Then we went off and tapped the barometer, +which was as devoid of principle as a bone setter, and +kept on persistently rising. We made friends with +a little stray waif of a dog of obsequious demeanour +and cringing disposition, prone to roll over on its +back when spoken to, thereby displaying a curiously +speckled stomach, but which was withal inclined to be +amiable, and wagged its tail so vigorously on being +noticed that I quite feared it might sustain a sprain +at the root of that appendage. But our friendship +was short-lived. Before long our little friend found +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page189">[pg 189]</span><a name="Pg189" id="Pg189" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>an acquaintance in the shape of a small semi-shaved +mongrel with a tail like a stalk of asparagus run +to seed. After a little preliminary walking about on +tiptoe, friendly overtures were made. The game +commenced by the playmates licking each others’ +noses; next they ran round with surprising rapidity +in very small circles, and then fell to wrestling in the +middle of the courtyard. These canine acquaintanceships +always end in the same way. Before long a +sudden, sharp squeak was heard, and the last I saw of +my little friend was a vanishing form darting round +the nearest corner, with his tail as much between his +legs as the excessive shortness of that excrescence +would permit. His playmate, somewhat disturbed +for a moment by this abrupt termination of the +acquaintanceship, gazed pensively, with ears erect, +for a while in the direction in which his friend had +vanished: then investigated two or three unimportant +objects by the sense of smell, consumed a few blades +of grass, yawned twice, stretched himself once, rolled +on something which had puzzled him, and retired +to repose at a little distance to await the expected +medicinal effects of the herb of which he had partaken. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A canine acquaintance</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +This is a true saying, that <span class="tei tei-q">“There’s small choice +in rotten apples,”</span> and a description of boredom in one +place is much like the same in another. Gradually, +weariness of the flesh below in the valley became +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page190">[pg 190]</span><a name="Pg190" id="Pg190" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>almost intolerable, while we were longing for an +opportunity to weary the flesh, in another way, on the +mountain. Ultimately, to my infinite regret, Maund +found himself obliged to depart to fulfil an engagement +elsewhere, but I still held on, though the conviction +was daily becoming stronger that the rain +would go on till the winter snows came. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Turning point of the expedition</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +On a mountain such as we knew the Aiguille du +Dru to be it would not have been wise to make any +attempt with a party of more than four. No doubt +three—that is, an amateur with two guides—would +have been better still, but I had, during the enforced +inaction through which we had been passing, become +so convinced of ultimate success that I was anxious +to find a companion to share it. Fortunately, +J. Walker Hartley, a highly skilful and practised +mountaineer, was at Chamouni, and it required but +little persuasion to induce him to join our party. +Seizing an opportunity one August day when the +rain had stopped for a short while, we decided to try +once more, or at any rate to see what effects the +climatic phases through which we had been passing +had produced on the Aiguille. With Alexander +Burgener and Andreas Maurer still as guides we +ascended once again the slopes by the side of the +Charpoua glacier, and succeeded in discovering a +still more eligible site for a bivouac than on our previous +attempts. A little before four the next morning +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page191">[pg 191]</span><a name="Pg191" id="Pg191" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>we extracted each other from our respective sleeping +bags, and made our way rapidly up the glacier. The +snow still lay thick everywhere on the rocks, which +were fearfully cold and glazed with thin layers of +slippery ice; but our purpose was very serious that +day, and we were not to be deterred by anything +short of unwarrantable risk. We intended the climb +to be merely one of exploration, but were resolved to +make it as thorough as possible, and with the best +results. From the middle of the slope leading up to +the ridge the guides went on alone while we stayed to +inspect and work out bit by bit the best routes over +such parts of the mountain as lay within view. In +an hour or two Burgener and Maurer came back to +us, and the former invited me to go on with him back +to the point from which he had just descended. His +invitation was couched in gloomy terms, but there +was a twinkle at the same time in his eye which it +was easy to interpret—<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">ce n’est que l’œil qui rit</span></span>. We +started off and climbed without the rope up the way +which was now so familiar, but which on this occasion, +in consequence of the glazed condition of the +rocks, was as difficult as it could well be; but for a +growing conviction that the upper crags were not +so bad as they looked we should scarcely have persevered. +<span class="tei tei-q">“Wait a little,”</span> said Burgener, <span class="tei tei-q">“I will show +you something presently.”</span> We reached at last a +great knob of rock close below the ridge, and for a +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page192">[pg 192]</span><a name="Pg192" id="Pg192" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>long time sat a little distance apart silently staring +at the precipices of the upper peak. I asked Burgener +what it might be that he had to show me. He +pointed to a little crack some way off, and begged that +I would study it, and then fell again to gazing at it +very hard himself. Though we scarcely knew it at the +time, this was the turning point of our year’s climbing. +Up to that moment I had only felt doubts as to +the inaccessibility of the mountain. Now a certain +feeling of confident elation began to creep over me. +The fact is, that we gradually worked ourselves up +into the right mental condition, and the aspect of a +mountain varies marvellously according to the beholder’s +frame of mind. These same crags had been +by each of us independently, at one time or another, +deliberately pronounced impossible. They were in +no better condition that day than usual, in fact in +much worse order than we had often seen them +before. Yet, notwithstanding that good judges +had ridiculed the idea of finding a way up the precipitous +wall, the prospect looked different that day +as turn by turn we screwed our determination up to +the sticking point. Here and there we could clearly +trace short bits of practicable rock ledges along which +a man might walk, or over which at any rate he might +transport himself, while cracks and irregularities +seemed to develop as we looked. Gradually, uniting +and communicating passages appeared to form. Faster +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page193">[pg 193]</span><a name="Pg193" id="Pg193" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>and faster did our thoughts travel, and at last we rose +and turned to each other. The same train of ideas +had independently been passing through our minds. +Burgener’s face flushed, his eyes brightened, and he +struck a great blow with his axe as we exclaimed +almost together, <span class="tei tei-q">“It must, and it shall be done!”</span> +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A difficult descent</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +The rest of the day was devoted to bringing +down the long ladder, which had previously been +deposited close below the summit of the ridge, to a +point much lower and nearer to the main peak. This +ladder had not hitherto been of the slightest assistance +on the rocks, and had indeed proved a source of +constant anxiety and worry, for it was ever prone to +precipitate its lumbering form headlong down the +slope. We had, it is true, used it occasionally on the +glacier to bridge over the crevasses, and had saved +some time thereby. Still we were loth to discard its +aid altogether, and accordingly devoted much time +and no little exertion to hauling it about and fixing it +in a place of security. It was late in the evening +before we had made all our preparations for the next +assault and turned to the descent, which proved to +be exceedingly difficult on this occasion. The snow +had become very soft during the day; the late hour +and the melting above caused the stones to fall so +freely down the gully that we gave up that line of +descent and made our way over the face. Often, in +travelling down, we were buried up to the waist in +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page194">[pg 194]</span><a name="Pg194" id="Pg194" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>soft snow overlying rock slabs, of which we knew no +more than that they were very smooth and inclined at +a highly inconvenient angle. It was imperative for one +only to move at a time, and the perpetual roping and +unroping was most wearisome. In one place it was +necessary to pay out 150 feet of rope between one +position of comparative security and the one next +below it, till the individual who was thus lowered +looked like a bait at the end of a deep sea line. One +step and the snow would crunch up in a wholesome +manner and yield firm support. The next, and the +leg plunged in as far as it could reach, while the submerged +climber would, literally, struggle in vain to +collect himself. Of course those above, to whom the +duty of paying out the rope was entrusted, would +seize the occasion to jerk as violently at the cord as +a cabman does at his horse’s mouth when he has misguided +the animal round a corner. Now another step +and a layer of snow not more than a foot deep would +slide off with a gentle hiss, exposing bare, black ice +beneath, or treacherous loose stones. Nor were our +difficulties at an end when we reached the foot of the +rocks, for the head of the glacier had fallen away from +the main mass of the mountain, even as an ill-constructed +bow window occasionally dissociates itself +from the façade of a jerry-built villa, and some very +complicated manœuvring was necessary in order to +reach the snow slopes. It was not till late in the +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page195">[pg 195]</span><a name="Pg195" id="Pg195" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>evening that we reached Chamouni; but it would have +mattered nothing to us even had we been benighted, +for we had seen all that we had wanted to see, and I +would have staked my existence now on the possibility +of ascending the peak. But the moment was not +yet at hand, and our fortress held out against +surrender to the very last by calling in its old allies, +sou’westerly winds and rainy weather. The whirligig +of time had not yet revolved so as to bring us in our +revenge. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-tb">* * * * * * * * </div> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A blank in the narrative</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Perhaps the monotonous repetition of failures on +the peak influences my recollection of what took +place subsequently to the expedition last mentioned. +Perhaps (as I sometimes think even now) an intense +desire to accomplish our ambition ripened into a +realisation of actual occurrences which really were only +efforts of imagination. This much I know, that when +on September 7 we sat once more round a blazing +wood fire at the familiar bivouac gazing pensively at +the crackling fuel, it seemed hard to persuade one’s-self +that so much had taken place since our last +attempt. Leaning back against the rock and closing +the eyes for a moment it seemed but a dream, whose +reality could be disproved by an effort of the will, +that we had gone to Zermatt in a storm and hurried +back again in a drizzle on hearing that some other +climbers were intent on our peak; that we had left +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page196">[pg 196]</span><a name="Pg196" id="Pg196" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>Chamouni in rain and tried, for the seventeenth time, +in a tempest; that matters had seemed so utterly +hopeless, seeing that the season was far advanced and +the days but short, as to induce me to return to +England, leaving minute directions that if the snow +should chance to melt and the weather to mend I +might be summoned back at once; that after eight-and-forty +hours of sojourn in the fogs of my native +land an intimation had come by telegraph of glad +tidings; that I had posted off straightway by <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">grande +vitesse</span></span> back to Chamouni; that I had arrived there +at four in the morning, in consequence of a little +misadventure, which may be here parenthetically +narrated. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A carriage misadventure</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +The afternoon diligence from Geneva did not go +beyond Sallanches. However, an ingenious young +man of low commercial morality, who said that he had +a remarkable horse and a super-excellent carriage, +was persuaded to drive me on the remainder of the +way to Chamouni. The young man, observing that +he had been very busy of late and had not been to +bed for two nights (nor had he, as might be judged, +washed or tidied himself since last he sought repose), +took a very hearty drink out of a tumbler and climbed +on to an eminence like a long-legged footstool, which +it appeared was the box seat. With much cracking +of whips and various ill-tempered remarks to his +horse we started with success, aided by the efforts of a +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page197">[pg 197]</span><a name="Pg197" id="Pg197" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>well-meaning person (judging by the way in which he +wore his braces loosely encircling his waist, devoted to +the tending of horses), who, to oblige his friend the +driver, ran suddenly at the slothful animal in the +shafts and punched the beast very heartily in the ribs +with his fist. Before we had gone a mile our troubles +began. The coachman’s ill-humour subsided, it is true, +but only in consequence of Nature’s soft nurse weighing +his eyelids down. Accordingly I got out my axe and +poked him in the back when he curled up under the influence +of his fatigue. This made him swear a good +deal, but for a time the device was successful enough. +Gradually the monotonous jangling of the harness bells +induced a somnolent disposition in me too, and I conceived +then the brilliant idea, as we were ascending +the long hill near St. Gervais at a walk, of planting +the head of the axe against my own chest and arranging +the weapon in such a way that the spike was in +close contact with the small of the driver’s back, so +that when he fell back it would run into him. Of a +sudden I opened my eyes to find that the jangling had +ceased and the carriage stopped. We were undoubtedly +at Chamouni, and the journey was at an end. +Such, however, was not quite the case. As a matter +of fact, we were not 200 yards further up the hill, the +horse was peacefully grazing by the roadside, and +the young man had eluded my artful contrivance by +falling forwards off the box, where he lay crumpled up +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page198">[pg 198]</span><a name="Pg198" id="Pg198" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>into a shapeless heap, peacefully asleep, entangled +between the shafts, the traces, the splinter bar, and the +horse’s tail. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +I rubbed my eyes and forced away by an effort the +confused jumble and whirl of thoughts that were +crowding through the brain. It was not the sound of +the parting farewell as the diligence lumbered away +from Chamouni, nor the slow heavy clank of the +railway carriages as they entered the station, nor the +voices of the railway porters that rang in my ears. +Voices there were, but they were familiar. I started +up and looked around. Surely that was the familiar +outline of the Aiguille du Dru clear and bright above; +surely that was Hartley (occupied for the moment in +mollifying the effects of sunburn by anointing his face +with the contents of a little squeeze-bottle), and there +was Burgener; but what was this untidy, sleeping +mass at our feet? Gradually it dawned upon me that +I was but inverting a psychological process and trying +to make a dream out of a reality. Hartley was there; +Burgener was there; and the uncomely bundle was +the outward form of the most incompetent guide in +all the Alps. It was not till next day that we +learnt that this creature had previously distinguished +himself by utter imbecility in a difficult ascent up the +north face of the Zermatt Breithorn, nor did we till +the next day fully realise how bad a guide a man +ranking as such might be. We kicked him in a +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page199">[pg 199]</span><a name="Pg199" id="Pg199" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>suitable place and he awoke; then he made the one +true remark that during our acquaintance with him +he was heard to utter. He said he had been drunk +the day before; with this he relapsed, and during the +remainder of the time he was with us gave expression +to nothing but whining complaints and inaccurate +statements. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A strange guide</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +From four in the morning of the next day till +seven in the evening, when we reached our bivouac +again, we were climbing without intermission; not +that our imbecile friend took any very active share +in the day’s amusement. He was roped as last man +in the caravan, and Hartley had to drag him up the +glacier. He was as slow of foot as he was of understanding, +and took no interest in the expedition. Twice +we pointed out to him half-hidden crevasses and +begged that he would be careful. Twice did he +acknowledge our courtesy by disappearing abruptly +into the snowy depths. Then he favoured us with a +short biographical sketch of his wife, her attributes, +and her affection for himself: he narrated the chief +characteristics of his children, and dilated on the +responsible position that as father of a family +(probably all crétins, if there be any truth in the +hereditary transmission of parental qualities) he considered +that he occupied. Finally, as he appeared +disposed to give us at length a memoir of his grandfather +deceased, we decided to unrope him and let +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page200">[pg 200]</span><a name="Pg200" id="Pg200" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>him have his own way in peace. For seven hours +did he crouch under a little rock, not daring to move +either up or down, or even to take the knapsack off +his back. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +For the first time on this occasion did we succeed +in climbing on to the main peak well above the level +of the ridge we had so often reached, by means of +leaving the gully at a much earlier point than usual. +We followed the exact line that we had marked out +mentally on the last occasion. At first progress was +easy, but we could only make our way very slowly, +seeing that we had but one short rope and only +one guide; for we had injudiciously left the longer +spare rope with our feeble-minded guide below, and +no shouts or implorations could induce him to make +his way up to us, nor had we leisure to go down +to him; so we had to make the best of matters as +they were. We soon found a place where the +ladder might be of service, and spent some time in +placing it in a position in which it remains I believe +till this day. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Now, personal considerations had to a great extent +to be lost sight of in the desire to make the most of +the day, and the result was that Hartley must have +had a very bad time of it. Unfortunately perhaps for +him he was by far the lightest member of the party; +accordingly we argued that he was far less likely to +break the rickety old ladder than we were. Again, +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page201">[pg 201]</span><a name="Pg201" id="Pg201" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>as the lightest weight, he was most conveniently +lowered down first over awkward places when they +occurred. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Our </span><span class="tei tei-q"><span style="font-size: 80%">“</span><span style="font-size: 80%">jeune premier</span><span style="font-size: 80%">”</span></span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +In the times which are spoken of as old, and which +have also, for some not very definable reason, the +prefix good, if you wanted your chimneys swept +you did not employ an individual now dignified +by the title of a Ramoneur, but you adopted the +simpler plan of calling in a master sweep. This +person would come attended by a satellite, who +wore the outward form of a boy and was gifted +with certain special physical attributes. Especially +was it necessary that the boy should be of such a size +and shape as to fit nicely to the chimney, not so +loosely on the one hand as to have any difficulty in +ascending by means of his knees and elbows, nor so +tightly on the other as to run any peril of being +wedged in. The boy was then inserted into the +chimney and did all the work, while the master remained +below or sat expectant on the roof to encourage, +to preside over, and subsequently to profit by, his +apprentice’s exertions. We adopted much the same +principle. Hartley, as the lightest, was cast for the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">rôle</span></span> +of the <span class="tei tei-q">“jeune premier”</span> or boy, while Burgener and +I on physical grounds alone filled the part, however +unworthily, of the master sweep. As a play not infrequently +owes its success to one actor, so did our +<span class="tei tei-q">“jeune premier,”</span> sometimes very literally, pull us +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page202">[pg 202]</span><a name="Pg202" id="Pg202" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>through on the present occasion. Gallantly indeed +did he fulfil his duty. Whether climbing up a ladder +slightly out of the perpendicular, leaning against +nothing in particular and with overhanging rocks +above; whether let down by a rope tied round his +waist, so that he dangled like the sign of the <span class="tei tei-q">“Golden +Fleece”</span> outside a haberdasher’s shop, or hauled up +smooth slabs of rock with his raiment in an untidy +heap around his neck; in each and all of these exercises +he was equally at home, and would be let down +or would come up smiling. One place gave us great +difficulty. An excessively steep wall of rock presented +itself and seemed to bar the way to a higher level. A +narrow crack ran some little way up the face, but +above the rock was slightly overhanging, and the water +trickling from some higher point had led to the formation +of a huge bunch of gigantic icicles, which hung +down from above. It was necessary to get past these, +but impossible to cut them away, as they would have +fallen on us below. Burgener climbed a little way up +the face, planted his back against it, and held on to +the ladder in front of him, while I did the same just +below: by this means we kept the ladder almost perpendicular, +but feared to press the highest rung +heavily against the icicles above lest we should break +them off. We now invited Hartley to mount up. +For the first few steps it was easy enough; but the +leverage was more and more against us as he climbed +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page203">[pg 203]</span><a name="Pg203" id="Pg203" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>higher, seeing that he could not touch the rock, and +the strain on our arms below was very severe. However, +he got safely to the top and disappeared from +view. The performance was a brilliant one, but, fortunately, +had not to be repeated; as on a subsequent +occasion, by a deviation of about fifteen or twenty +feet, we climbed to the same spot in a few minutes +with perfect ease and without using any ladder at all. +On this occasion, however, we must have spent fully +an hour while Hartley performed his feats, which +were not unworthy of a Japanese acrobat. Every +few feet of the mountain at this part gave us difficulty, +and it was curious to notice how, on this the first +occasion of travelling over the rock face, we often +selected the wrong route in points of detail. We +ascended from twenty to fifty feet, then surveyed +right and left, up and down, before going any further. +The minutes slipped by fast, but I have no doubt now +that if we had had time we might have ascended to +the final arête on this occasion. We had often to +retrace our steps, and whenever we did so found some +slightly different line by which time could have been +saved. Though the way was always difficult nothing +was impossible, and when the word at last was +given, owing to the failing light, to descend, we had +every reason to be satisfied with the result of the +day’s exploration. There seemed to be little doubt +that we had traversed the most difficult part of the +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page204">[pg 204]</span><a name="Pg204" id="Pg204" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>mountain, and, indeed, we found on a later occasion, +with one or two notable exceptions, that such was +the case. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">An acrobatic performance</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +However, at the time we did not think that, even +if it were possible, it would be at all advisable to +make our next attempt without a second guide. A +telegram had been sent to Kaspar Maurer, instructing +him to join us at the bivouac with all possible expedition. +The excitement was thus kept up to the +very last, for we knew not whether the message might +have reached him, and the days of fine weather were +precious. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +It was late in the evening when we reached again +the head of the glacier, and the point where we had +left the feeble creature who had started with us as a +second guide. On beholding us once more he wept +copiously, but whether his tears were those of gratitude +for release from the cramped position in which he +had spent his entire day, or of joy at seeing us safe +again, or whether they were the natural overflow of +an imbecile intellect stirred by any emotion whatever, +it were hard to say; at any rate he wept, and then +fell to a description of some interesting details concerning +the proper mode of bringing up infants, and +the duties of parents towards their children: the +most important of which, in his estimation, was that +the father of a family should run no risk whatever +on a mountain. Reaching our bivouac, we +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page205">[pg 205]</span><a name="Pg205" id="Pg205" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>looked anxiously down over the glacier for any +signs of Kaspar Maurer. Two or three parties +were seen crawling homewards towards the Montanvert +over the ice-fields, but no signs of our guide +were visible. As the shades of night, however, were +falling, we were able indistinctly to see in the far-off +distance a little black dot skipping over the Mer de +Glace with great activity. Most eagerly did we watch +the apparition, and when finally it headed in our +direction and all doubt was removed as to the personality, +we felt that our constant ill-luck was at last +on the eve of changing. However, it was not till two +days later that we left Chamouni once more for the +nineteenth and, as it proved, for the last time to try +the peak. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Our nineteenth attempt</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +On September 11, we sat on the rocks a few +feet above the camping-place. Never before had we +been so confident of success. The next day’s climb +was no longer to be one of exploration. We were +to start as early as the light would permit, and we +were to go up and always up, if necessary till the +light should fail. Possibly we might have succeeded +long before if we had had the same amount of determination +to do so that we were possessed with on +this occasion. We had made up our minds to succeed, +and felt as if all our previous attempts had been but +a sort of training for this special occasion. We had +gone so far as to instruct our friends below to look +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page206">[pg 206]</span><a name="Pg206" id="Pg206" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>out for us on the summit between twelve and two the +next day. We had even gone to the length of bringing +a stick wherewith to make a flag-staff on the top. +Still one, and that a very familiar source of disquietude, +harassed us as our eyes turned anxiously +to the west. A single huge band of cloud hung heavily +right across the sky, and looked like a harbinger of +evil, for it was of a livid colour above, and tinged +with a deep crimson red below. My companion was +despondent at the prospect it suggested, and the +guides tapped their teeth with their forefingers when +they looked in that direction; but it was suggested +by a more sanguine person that its form and very +watery look suggested a Band of Hope. An insinuating +smell of savoury soup was wafted up gently +from below— +</p> + <div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-left: 2.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> +<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Stealing and giving odour.</div> +</div> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We took courage; then descended to the tent, and took +sustenance. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +There was no difficulty experienced in making an +early start the next day, and the moment the grey +light allowed us to see our way we set off. On such +occasions, when the mind is strung up to a high pitch +of excitement, odd and trivial little details and incidents +fix themselves indelibly on the memory. I +can recall as distinctly now, as if it had only happened +a moment ago, the exact tone of voice in which +Burgener, on looking out of the tent, announced that +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page207">[pg 207]</span><a name="Pg207" id="Pg207" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the weather would do. Burgener and Kaspar Maurer +were now our guides, for our old enemy with the +family ties had been paid off and sent away with a +flea in his ear—an almost unnecessary adjunct, as +anyone who had slept in the same tent with him +could testify. Notwithstanding that Maurer was far +from well, and rather weak, we mounted rapidly at +first, for the way was by this time familiar enough, +and we all meant business. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The rocks of the Dru</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Our position now was this. By our exploration on +the last occasion we had ascertained that it was possible +to ascend to a great height on the main mass of the +mountain. From the slope of the rocks, and from the +shape of the mountain, we felt sure that the final crest +would be easy enough. We had then to find a way still +up the face, from the point where we had turned back on +our last attempt, to some point on the final ridge of +the mountain. The rocks on this part we had never +been able to examine very closely, for it is necessary +to cross well over to the south-eastern face while +ascending from the ridge between the Aiguille du Dru +and the Aiguille Verte. A great projecting buttress of +rock, some two or three hundred feet in height, cuts off +the view of that part of the mountain over which we +now hoped to make our way. By turning up straight +behind this buttress, we hoped to hit off and reach +the final crest just above the point where it merges +into the precipitous north-eastern wall visible from +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page208">[pg 208]</span><a name="Pg208" id="Pg208" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the Chapeau. This part of the mountain can only be +seen from the very head of the Glacier de la Charpoua +just under the mass of the Aiguille Verte. But this +point of view is too far off for accurate observations, +and the strip of mountain was practically, therefore, +a <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">terra incognita</span></span> to us. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">What next?</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +We followed the gully running up from the head +of the glacier towards the ridge above mentioned, +keeping well to the left. Before long it was necessary +to cross the gully on to the main peak. To make the +topography clearer a somewhat prosaic and domestic +simile may be employed. The Aiguille du Dru and the +Aiguille Verte are connected by a long sharp ridge, towards +which we were now climbing; and this ridge is let +in as it were into the south-eastern side of the Aiguille +du Dru, much as a comb may be stuck into the middle +of a hairbrush, the latter article representing the main +peak. Here we employed the ladder which had been +placed in the right position the day previously. Right +glad were we to see the rickety old structure which +had now spent four years on the mountain, and was +much the worse for it. It creaked and groaned dismally +under our weight and ran sharp splinters into +us at all points of contact, but yet there was a certain +companionship about the old ladder, and we seemed +almost to regret that it was not destined to share +more in our prospective success. A few steps on and +we came to a rough cleft some five-and-twenty feet +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page209">[pg 209]</span><a name="Pg209" id="Pg209" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>in depth, which had to be descended. A double rope +was fastened to a projecting crag, and we swung ourselves +down as if we were barrels of split peas going +into a ship’s hold; then to the ascent again, and the +excitement waxed stronger as we drew nearer to the +doubtful part of the mountain. Still, we did not +anticipate insuperable obstacles; for I think we were +possessed with a determination to succeed, which is a +sensation often spoken of as a presentiment of success. +A short climb up an easy broken gully, and of a +sudden we seemed to be brought to a standstill. A +little ledge at our feet curled round a projecting crag +on the left. <span class="tei tei-q">“What are we to do now?”</span> said Burgener, +but with a smile on his face that left no doubt +as to the answer. He lay flat down on the ledge and +wriggled round the projection, disappearing suddenly +from view as if the rock had swallowed him up. A +shout proclaimed that his expectations had not been +deceived, and we were bidden to follow; and follow we +did, sticking to the flat face of the rock with all our +power, and progressing like the skates down the glass +sides of an aquarium tank. When the last man +joined us we found ourselves all huddled together on +a very little ledge indeed, while an overhanging rock +above compelled us to assume the anomalous attitude +enforced on the occupant of a little-ease dungeon. +What next? An eager look up solved part of the +doubt. <span class="tei tei-q">“There is the way,”</span> said Burgener, leaning +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page210">[pg 210]</span><a name="Pg210" id="Pg210" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>back to get a view. <span class="tei tei-q">“Oh, indeed,”</span> we answered. No +doubt there was a way, and we were glad to hear that +it was possible to get up it. The attractions of the +route consisted of a narrow flat gully plastered up +with ice, exceeding straight and steep and crowned at +the top with a pendulous mass of enormous icicles. +The gully resembled a half-open book standing up +on end. Enthusiasts in rock-climbing who have +ascended the Riffelhorn from the Görner Glacier side +will have met with a similar gully, but, as a rule, free +from ice, which, in the present instance, constituted +the chief difficulty. The ice, filling up the receding +angle from top to bottom, rendered it impossible to +find hand-hold on the rocks, and it was exceedingly +difficult to cut steps in such a place, for the slabs of +ice were prone to break away entire. However, the +guides said they could get up, and asked us to keep +out of the way of chance fragments of ice which might +fall down as they ascended. So we tucked ourselves +away on one side, and they fell to as difficult a business +as could well be imagined. The rope was +discarded, and slowly they worked up, their backs and +elbows against one sloping wall, their feet against the +other. But the angle was too wide to give security to +this position, the more especially that with shortened +axes they were compelled to hack out enough of the ice +to reveal the rock below. In such places the ice is but +loosely adherent, being raised up from the face much +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page211">[pg 211]</span><a name="Pg211" id="Pg211" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>as pie-crust dissociates itself from the fruit beneath +under the influence of the oven. Strike lightly with +the axe, and a hollow sound is yielded without much +impression on the ice; strike hard, and the whole mass +breaks away. But the latter method is the right one to +adopt, though it necessitates very hard work. No steps +are really reliable when cut in ice of this description. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A narrow escape</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +The masses of ice, coming down harder and harder +as they ascended without intermission, showed how +they were working, and the only consolation that we +had during a time that we felt to be critical, was that +the guides were not likely to expend so much labour +unless they thought that some good result would come +of it. Suddenly there came a sharp shout and cry; then +a crash as a great slab of ice, falling from above, was +dashed into pieces at our feet and leaped into the air; +then a brief pause, and we knew not what would +happen next. Either the gully had been ascended +or the guides had been pounded, and failure here +might be failure altogether. It is true that Hartley +and I had urged the guides to find a way some little +distance to the right of the line on which they were +now working; but they had reported that, though +easy below, the route we had pointed out was impossible +above.<a id="noteref_5" name="noteref_5" href="#note_5"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">5</span></span></a> A faint scratching noise close above +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page212">[pg 212]</span><a name="Pg212" id="Pg212" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>us, as of a mouse perambulating behind a wainscot. +We look up. It is the end of a rope. We seize it, and +our pull from below is answered by a triumphant yell +from above as the line is drawn taut. Fastening the +end around my waist, I started forth. The gully +was a scene of ruin, and I could hardly have believed +that two axes in so short a time could have dealt so +much destruction. Nowhere were the guides visible, +and in another moment there was a curious sense of +solitariness as I battled with the obstacles, aided in +no small degree by the rope. The top of the gully +was blocked up by a great cube of rock, dripping still +where the icicles had just been broken off. The +situation appeared to me to demand deliberation, +though it was not accorded. <span class="tei tei-q">“Come on,”</span> said voices +from above. <span class="tei tei-q">“Up you go,”</span> said a voice from below. +I leaned as far back as I could, and felt about for a +hand-hold. There was none. Everything seemed +smooth. Then right, then left; still none. So I +smiled feebly to myself, and called out, <span class="tei tei-q">“Wait a minute.”</span> +This was of course taken as an invitation to pull +vigorously, and, struggling and kicking like a spider +irritated by tobacco smoke, I topped the rock and +lent a hand on the rope for Hartley to follow. Then +we learnt that a great mass of ice had broken away +under Maurer’s feet while they were in the gully, +and that he must have fallen had not Burgener +pinned him to the rock with one hand. From the +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page213">[pg 213]</span><a name="Pg213" id="Pg213" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>number of times that this escape was described to us +during that day and the next, I am inclined to think +that it was rather a near thing. At the time, and +often since, I have questioned myself as to whether +we could have got up this passage without the rope +let down from above. I think either of us could +have done it in time with a companion. It was +necessary for two to be in the gully at the same +time, to assist each other. It was necessary also to +discard the rope, which in such a place could only be +a source of danger. But no amateur should have +tried the passage on that occasion without confidence +in his own powers, and without absolute knowledge of +the limit of his own powers. If the gully had been +free from ice it would have been much easier. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The final scramble</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +<span class="tei tei-q">“The worst is over now,”</span> said Burgener. I was +glad to hear it, but, looking upwards, had my doubts. +The higher we went the bigger the rocks seemed to be. +Still there was a way, and it was not so very unlike +what I had, times out of mind, pictured to myself in +imagination. Another tough scramble and we stood +on a comparatively extensive ledge. With elation we +observed that we had now climbed more than half of +the only part of the mountain of the nature of which +we were uncertain. A few steps on and Burgener +grasped me suddenly by the arm. <span class="tei tei-q">“Do you see the +great red rock up yonder?”</span> he whispered, hoarse with +excitement—<span class="tei tei-q">“in ten minutes we shall be there and on +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page214">[pg 214]</span><a name="Pg214" id="Pg214" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the arête, and then——”</span> Nothing could stop us now; +but a feverish anxiety to see what lay beyond, to look +on the final slope which we knew must be easy, impelled +us on, and we worked harder than ever to +overcome the last few obstacles. The ten minutes +expanded into something like thirty before we really +reached the rock. Of a sudden the mountain seemed +to change its form. For hours we had been climbing +the hard, dry rocks. Now these appeared suddenly to +vanish from under our feet, and once again our eyes +fell on snow which lay thick, half hiding, half revealing, +the final slope of the ridge. A glance along it +showed that we had not misjudged. Even the cautious +Maurer admitted that, as far as we could see, all +appeared promising. And now, with the prize almost +within our grasp, a strange desire to halt and hang +back came on. Burgener tapped the rock with his +axe, and we seemed somehow to regret that the way in +front of us must prove comparatively easy. Our foe +had almost yielded, and it appeared something like +cruelty to administer the final <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">coup de grâce</span></span>. We +could already anticipate the half-sad feeling with +which we should reach the top itself. It needed but +little to make the feeling give way. Some one cried +<span class="tei tei-q">“Forwards,”</span> and instantly we were all in our places +again, and the leader’s axe crashed through the +layers of snow into the hard blue ice beneath. A +dozen steps, and then a short bit of rock scramble; +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page215">[pg 215]</span><a name="Pg215" id="Pg215" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>then more steps along the south side of the ridge, +followed by more rock, and the ridge beyond, which +had been hidden for a minute or two, stretched out +before us again as we topped the first eminence. +Better and better it looked as we went on. <span class="tei tei-q">“See +there,”</span> cried Burgener suddenly, <span class="tei tei-q">“the actual top!”</span> +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Our foe is vanquished</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +There was no possibility of mistaking the two huge +stones we had so often looked at from below. They +seemed, in the excitement of the moment, misty and +blurred for a brief space, but grew clear again as I +passed my hand over my eyes and seemed to swallow +something. A few feet below the pinnacles and on +the left was one of those strange arches formed by a +great transverse boulder, so common near the summits +of these aiguilles, and through the hole we could see +blue sky. Nothing could lay beyond, and, still better, +nothing could be above. On again, while we could +scarcely stand still in the great steps the leader set +his teeth to hack out. Then there came a short +troublesome bit of snow scramble, where the heaped-up +cornice had fallen back from the final rock. There +we paused for a moment, for the summit was but a +few feet from us, and Hartley, who was ahead, +courteously allowed me to unrope and go on first. In +a few seconds I clutched at the last broken rocks, and +hauled myself up on to the sloping summit. There +for a moment I stood alone gazing down on Chamouni. +The holiday dream of five years was accomplished; +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page216">[pg 216]</span><a name="Pg216" id="Pg216" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the Aiguille du Dru was climbed. Where in the wide +world will you find a sport able to yield pleasure like +this? +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Mountaineers are often asked, <span class="tei tei-q">“What did you do +when you got to the top?”</span> With regard to this peak +the same question has often been put to me, and I +have often answered it, but, it must be confessed, +always suppressing one or two facts. I do not know +why I should conceal them now any longer, the more +especially as I think there is a moral to be drawn +from my experience, or I would still keep it locked up. +I had tried so hard and so long to get up this little +peak, that some reaction of mind was not improbable; +but it took a turn which I had never before and +have never since experienced in the slightest degree. +For a second or two—it cannot have been longer—all +the past seemed blotted out, all consciousness +of self, all desire of life was lost, and I was +seized with an impulse almost incontrollable to +throw myself down the vertical precipice which lay +immediately at my feet. I know not now, though +the feeling is still and always will be intensely vivid, +how it was resisted, but at the sound of the voices +below the faculties seemed to return each to its +proper place, and with the restoration of the <a name="corr216" id="corr216" class="tei tei-anchor"></a><span class="tei tei-corr">mental</span> +balance the momentary idea of violently overturning +the physical balance vanished. What has happened +to one may have happened to others. It appeared +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page217">[pg 217]</span><a name="Pg217" id="Pg217" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>to me quite different from what is known as mountain +vertigo. In fact, I never moved at all from +where I stood, and awoke, as it were, to find myself +looking calmly down the identical place. It may be +that the mental equilibrium under similar circumstances +has not always been so fortunately restored, +and that thus calamities on the mountains may have +taken place. In another minute the rest of the party +ascended, and we were all reposing on the hard-won +summit. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">On the summit</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Far below a little white speck representing Couttet’s +Hotel was well in view, and towards this we +directed our telescope. We could make out a few +individuals wandering listlessly about, but there did +not seem to be much excitement; in front of the +Imperial Hotel, however, we were pleased to imagine +that we saw somebody gazing in our direction. +Accordingly, with much pomp and ceremony, the +stick—which it may be stated was borrowed without +leave—was fixed into a little cleft and tightly wedged +in; then, to my horror, Burgener, with many chuckles +at his own foresight and at the completeness of his +equipment, produced from a concealed pocket a piece +of scarlet flannel strongly suggestive of a baby’s under +garment, and tied it on to the stick. I protested in +vain; in a moment the objectionable rag was floating +proudly in the breeze. However, it seemed to want +airing. Determined that our ascent should be placed +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page218">[pg 218]</span><a name="Pg218" id="Pg218" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>beyond doubt in the eyes of any subsequent visitors, +we ransacked our stores, and were enabled to leave the +following articles:—One half-pint bottle containing our +names, preserved by a paper stopper from the inclemency +of the weather; two wooden wedges of +unknown use, two ends of string, three burnt fusees, +divers chips, one stone man of dwarf proportions, the +tenpenny stick, and the infant’s petticoat. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +There is a popular belief that the main object of +climbing up a mountain is to get a view from the top. +It may therefore be a matter of regret to some, but it +will certainly be a matter of great congratulation to +many others, that of the view obtained I can say but +little. Chamouni looked very nice, however, from this +distance. Turning towards the Aiguille Verte we were +astonished to notice that this great mass appeared to +tower far less above us than might have been expected +from its much greater height and close proximity. On +the other hand, the lower south-eastern peak of the +Aiguille du Dru seemed much more below us than we +had imagined would be the case. It is a moot point +in mountaineering circles how much difference between +two closely contiguous points is necessary in order +that they may be rated as individual peaks. At the +time we estimated the difference between the two +peaks of our Aiguille to be about 80 feet, but Hartley, +who has since climbed the lower point, estimates that +the difference between the two must be at the very +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page219">[pg 219]</span><a name="Pg219" id="Pg219" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>least 120 feet. Still, the comparative meagreness of +the panorama did not affect our spirits, nor detract +in any appreciable degree from the completeness of +the expedition. The Aiguille du Dru is essentially an +expedition only for those who love a good climb for +climbing’s sake. Every step, every bit of scrambling, +was—and is still—a pleasure. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The return journey</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +We had reached the top at half-past twelve, so +that our estimate of the time required had been a +very accurate one. After spending three-quarters of +an hour on the summit we turned to the descent with +regret, and possessed with much the same feeling as a +schoolboy on Black Monday, who takes an affectionate +farewell of all sorts of inanimate objects. Very difficult +the descent proved to be. We were so anxious, +now that our efforts had been finally crowned with +success, that the whole expedition should pass off +without the least misadventure, that we went much +more slowly, and took more elaborate precautions than +under ordinary circumstances would have been deemed +necessary. From the start we had agreed that, whatever +the hour, nothing should persuade us to hurry +the least in the descent. On such mountains, however, +as the Aiguille du Dru it is easier on the whole +to get down than to get up, especially if a good supply +of spare rope be included in the equipment. At three +places we found it advisable to fix ropes in order to +assist our progress. It was curious to observe how +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page220">[pg 220]</span><a name="Pg220" id="Pg220" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>marvellously the aspect of the mountain was changed +as we looked down the places up which we had +climbed so recently; and there were so many deviations +from the straight line, that the way was very +difficult to find at all. Indeed, Burgener alone could +hit it off with certainty, and, though last on the rope, +directed the way without ever making the slightest +mistake at any part. We followed precisely the same +route as in ascending, and noticed few if any places +where this route was capable of improvement, or even +of alteration. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Not till nearly five o’clock did we regain our abandoned +store of provisions; the sight of the little white +packets, and especially of a certain can of tinned +meat, seen at a considerable distance below, incited +us to great exertions, for since ten in the morning we +had partaken of nothing but a sandwich crushed +out of all recognisable shape. Ignoring the probability +of being benighted on the rocks, we caroused +merrily on seltzer water and the contents of the tin +can. It seemed almost a pity to quit for good these +familiar rocks on which we had spent such a glorious +time, and the sun was sinking low behind the Brévent +range, and the rocks were all darkened in the grey +shadows, before the guides could persuade us to pack +up and resume our journey. Very little time was +lost in descending when we had once started, but +before we had reached a certain little sloping ledge +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page221">[pg 221]</span><a name="Pg221" id="Pg221" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>furnished with a collection of little pointed stones, and +known as the breakfast place, the darkness had overtaken +us. The glacier lay only a few feet below, when +the mist which had been long threatening swept up +and closed in around us. The crevasses at the head +of the glacier were so complicated, and the snow +bridges so fragile, that we thought it wiser not to go +on at once, but to wait till the snow should have had +time to harden. So we sat down under an overhanging +rock, and made believe that we enjoyed the fun. +Hartley wedged a stone under his waist, as if he were +the hind wheel of a waggon going uphill, and imitated +the inaction and attitude of a person going to sleep. +The guides retired to a little distance and, as is their +wont when inactive, fell to a warm discussion over the +dimensions of the different chamois they had shot, +each of course outvying the other in turn. The game +has this merit at least, when there is plenty of spare time +at disposal, that if the players only begin low enough +down in the animal scale it is practically unlimited. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Benighted</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Before long the situation ceased to be amusing, +as we found that we had managed to get wet through +in the gully, and that the slowly falling temperature +was exceedingly unpleasant. I converted a cowhide +knapsack into a temporary foot-warmer, much to the +detriment of such articles of food as were still stored +in its recesses, and tucked a boot under each arm +to keep the leather from hardening. Then we fell +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page222">[pg 222]</span><a name="Pg222" id="Pg222" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>to discussing what we would have next day for breakfast, +and for some two hours found a certain amount +of solace in disputing over the merits of divers dainty +dishes. Even this fertile subject failed at length to +give adequate satisfaction. The ledge became colder +and colder, and new spiky little points appeared +to develop every moment. The argument of the +sportsmen grew fainter, and we became slowly chilled +through. For a while the mind became more active, +but less logical, and fanciful visions crowded thickly +through it. On such occasions it is seldom possible +to fix the thoughts on events immediately past. To +my drowsy gaze the mist seemed to take the form of +our native fogs, while the condition of the ledge suggested +obtrusively a newly macadamised road. Almost +at will I could transport myself in imagination to the +metropolis I had so recently left, or back again to the +wild little ledge on which we were stranded. Following +up the train of sensations, it was easy to conceive +how reason might fail altogether, and how gradually, +as the senses became numbed one by one, delirium +might supervene from cold and exposure—as has often +happened to arctic travellers. The thoughts flew off +far afield, and pictured the exact contrast of the immediate +surroundings. I saw a brilliantly lighted street +with long rows of flaming lamps. The windows of the +clubhouses shone out as great red and orange squares +and oblongs. Carriages dashed by, cabs oscillated down +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page223">[pg 223]</span><a name="Pg223" id="Pg223" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the roads. Elegantly attired youths about to commence +their wakeful period (why are men who only +know the seamy side of life called <span class="tei tei-q">“men of the world”</span>? +Is it so bad a world, my masters?) were strolling off +to places of entertainment. A feeble, ragged creature +crept along in the shadows. A worn, bright-eyed girl, +just free from work which had begun at early dawn, +dragged her aching limbs homewards, but stopped a +moment to glance with envy at a mamma and two +fair daughters crossing the pavement to their carriage; +light, life, bustle, crowding everywhere. Faster and +faster follow the shifting scenes till the visions jostle +and become confused——A crack, a distant sound of +a falling shower of stones, a hiss as they fall on to the +snow slopes below. The eyes open, but the mind +only half awakes, and almost immediately dreams +again, with changed visions of comfortable rooms, in +which the flickering light of a coal fire now throws +up, now half conceals the close-drawn curtains, or the +familiar form of books and pictures; visions of some +formless individual with slippered feet disposed at +judicious distance from the blazing coals, of soft +carpets and deep arm-chairs moulded by long use into +the precise intaglio adapted to the human frame; +visions of a warm flood of subdued light, of things +steaming gently with curling wreaths of vapour. All +these passed in order before the mind, called up by +the incantation of discomfort out of the cauldron of +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page224">[pg 224]</span><a name="Pg224" id="Pg224" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>misery, like unto the regal display manifested to that +impulsive and somewhat over-married individual, +Macbeth. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Shifting scenes</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +But before long it was most difficult to picture +these pleasant sights so vividly as to become altogether +oblivious of an exceedingly chilly personality, +and ultimately human nature triumphed, and the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">ego</span></span> +in a rather frozen state became again paramount. +I had begun to calculate the number of hours we +might have to remain where we were, and the probable +state in which we should be next morning, when +of a sudden the mist lifted, and disclosed the glacier +just below feebly lit up by the rising moon. We +sprang instantly to our feet, almost as instantaneously +returning to our former positions by reason +of the exceeding stiffness and cramp begotten of the +cold. The guides, leaving their discussion at a +point where the last speaker had, in imagination, +shot a chamois about the size of an elephant, +descended to inspect the ice. The snow bridges were +pronounced secure, and we were soon across the crevasses, +but found to our disgust that we had rather +overdone the waiting. The slope was hard frozen, +and in the dim light it was found necessary to cut +steps nearly the whole way down the glacier. For +five hours and a half were we thus engaged, and did +not reach our camp till 2.30 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> Never did the tent +look so comfortable as on that morning. If, as was +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page225">[pg 225]</span><a name="Pg225" id="Pg225" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>remarked of Mrs. Gamp’s apartment in Kingsgate +Street, High Holborn, to the contented mind a +cottage is a palace, so to the weary frame may a tent +be a luxurious hotel. We rushed over the loose rocks +by the snout of the glacier, and ran helter-skelter for +our bivouac. From the circumstance that the invariable +struggle for the best pillow was usually brief, and +that one of the party was discovered next morning +wrong end foremost in his sleeping bag with his boots +still on his feet, I am disposed to think that we were +not long in dropping off to sleep; but the unstudied +attitudes of the party suggested rather four revellers +returning from a Greenwich dinner in a four-wheeled +cab over a cobbled road than a company of sober +mountaineers. By seven o’clock, however, the predominant +thought of breakfast so asserted itself that +we woke up and looked out. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The camp breaks up</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +The first object that met our gaze was a large +sheet of paper, affixed to the rock just in front of +the tent, and bearing the simple inscription <span class="tei tei-q">“Hooray!”</span> +This led us to surmise that our success was already +known below; for the author of the legend had +returned to Chamouni the previous evening, after +having seen us on the summit. To each man was +apportioned the burden he should bear of the camp +equipage. Such a collection of pots and pans and other +paraphernalia had we amassed gradually during our +stay, that our appearance as we crossed the glacier +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page226">[pg 226]</span><a name="Pg226" id="Pg226" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>suggested rather that of certain inhabitants of Lagado +mentioned in Gulliver’s voyage to Laputa. By nine +o’clock we had deposited our burdens at the Montanvert +and, disregarding the principles of the sages +above referred to, ventured to corrode our lungs by +articulating our wants to the landlord. This worthy +received us with more than his usual affability, for the +tidings of our success had in truth already reached +the inn. A bottle of conical form was produced, the +cork drawn with a monstrous explosion, and some +very indifferent fluid poured out as a token of congratulation. +In spite of, perhaps in consequence of, +these early libations, we skipped down the well-worn +and somewhat unsavoury path with great nimbleness, +and in an hour or so found ourselves on the level path +leading along the valley to Chamouni by the English +church. There, I am pleased to record, the first man +to congratulate us was our old friend M. Gabriel +Loppé, without whose kindly sympathy and constant +encouragement I doubt if we should have ever persevered +to our successful end. It mattered little to +us that but few of the Chamouni guides gave us credit +for having really ascended the peak, for most of them +maintained that we had merely reached a point on the +south-east face of the lower summit; indeed, to those +not so familiar with the details of the mountain as +we were, it might well seem hard to realise that the +crag jutting out on the right, as seen from Chamouni, +is really the actual summit. +</p> + +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page227">[pg 227]</span><a name="Pg227" id="Pg227" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Such is the record of the most fascinating rock +climb with which I am acquainted. From beginning +to end it is interesting. There is no wearisome +tramping over loose moraine and no great extent of +snow-field to traverse. The rocks are wondrously firm +and big, and peculiarly unlike those on other mountains, +even on many of the aiguilles about Chamouni. +</p> +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Mountaineering morality</span></div></div> +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +An odd code of mountaineering morality has gradually +sprung into existence, and ideas as to what is +fair and sportsmanlike in mountain climbing are somewhat +peculiar. People speak somewhat vaguely of +<span class="tei tei-q">“artificial aid,”</span> and are wont to criticise in very severe +language the employment of such assistance, at the +same time finding it rather hard, if driven into a corner, +to define what they mean by the term. It would seem +that artificial aid may signify the driving of iron pegs +into rocks when nature has provided insufficient hand +or foot-hold. Such a proceeding is considered highly +improper. To cut a step in ice is right, but to chisel +out a step on rock is in the highest degree unjustifiable. +Again, a ladder may be used without critical animadversion +to bridge a crevasse, but its employment over +a rock cleft is tabooed. A certain amount of mountaineering +equipment is not only considered proper, +but those who go on the mountains without it are +spoken of with great asperity, and called very hard +names; but the equipment must not include anything +beyond hobnails, rope, axes, and possibly a ladder for +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page228">[pg 228]</span><a name="Pg228" id="Pg228" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>a crevasse; any other contrivance is sniffed at contemptuously +as artificial aid. Rockets and such like +are usually only mentioned in order to be condemned; +while grapnels, chains, and crampons are held to be +the inventions of the fiend. Why these unwritten +laws should exist in such an imaginary code it is hard +to see. Perhaps we must not consider too curiously +on the matter. For my own part, if it could be +proved that by no possible means could a given bad +passage be traversed without some such aid, nor turned +by another route, I should not hesitate to adopt any +mechanical means to the desired end. As a matter +of fact, in the Alps scarcely any such places exist for +those who have taken the trouble to learn how to +climb, and there are none on the Aiguille du Dru. +We used our ladder often enough in exploring the +mountain, but when we actually ascended it we employed +it in one place only, saving thereby at least +an hour of invaluable time. Indeed, subsequent explorers +have found such to be the case; and Mr. W. +E. Davidson, in a recent ascent of the mountain, was +able to find his way without invoking the assistance +of either ladder or fixed ropes. In a marvellously +short space of time, too, did he get up and down the +peak on which we had spent hours without number. +Still, this is the fate of all mountains. The mountaineers +who make the third ascent are, usually, able +to sweep away the blushing honours that the first +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page229">[pg 229]</span><a name="Pg229" id="Pg229" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>climbers might fondly hope they had invested the +mountain with. A word, a stroke of the pen, will do +it. The peaks do not yield gradually from their high +estate, but fall, like Lucifer, from summit to ultimate +destination, and are suddenly converted from <span class="tei tei-q">“the most +difficult mountain in the Alps”</span> to <span class="tei tei-q">“Oh yes; a fine +peak, but not a patch upon Mount So-and-so.”</span> It is +but with the mountains as with other matters of this +life, save in this respect, that once deposed they never +can hope to reign again supreme. Statements concerning +our fellow-creatures when of a depreciatory, +and still more when of a scandal-flavoured, nature, are +always believed by nine people out of ten to be, if not +absolutely true, at any rate well-founded enough for +repetition. A different estimate of the standard of +veracity to be met with in this world is assumed when +the remarks are favourable. Even so may it be, in +some instances, with the mountains. The prestige +that clings to a maiden peak is like the bark on a +wand: peel it off, and it cannot be replaced; the +bough withers, and is cast to one side, its character +permanently altered. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Chamouni becomes festive</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +We would fain have rested that evening, but the +edict went forth that festivities were to take place in +honour of the ascent, and, to tell the truth, that +evening was not the least fatiguing part of the whole +affair. The opportunity was too good to be lost, +especially as the customary mode of testifying +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page230">[pg 230]</span><a name="Pg230" id="Pg230" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>congratulations by firing off divers podgy little cannons, +had been omitted. Preparations were made for a display +of fireworks on a large scale. Some six rockets of +moderately soaring ambition were placed in order on +the grass-plot in front of the hotel. A skilful pyrotechnist, +who knew the right end to which to apply +the match, was placed in charge, and fussed about +a great deal. A very little table covered with a white +cloth, and on which were displayed several bottles, +reminded the crowd of loafers who assembled expectant +as the darkness came on, that a carousal was +meditated. At last the word was given, and the +pyrotechnist, beaming with pride, advanced bearing +a lighted taper attached to the end of a stick of judicious +length. A hush of expectancy followed, and experienced +persons retired to sheltered corners. The +fireworks behaved as they usually do. They fizzed +prodigiously, and went off in the most unexpected +directions. One rocket, rather weak in the waist, +described, after a little preliminary spluttering, an +exceedingly sharp, corkscrew-like series of curves, and +then turned head-over-heels with astounding rapidity +on the lawn, like a rabbit shot through the head, and +there lay flat, spluttering out its gunpowdery vitals. +Another was perfectly unmoved at the initial application +of the kindling flame, but then suddenly began +to swell up in an alarming way, causing the pyrotechnist, +who had no previous experience of this +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page231">[pg 231]</span><a name="Pg231" id="Pg231" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>phenomenon, to retreat somewhat hastily. However, +one of the rockets rose to a height of some five-and-twenty +feet, much to the operator’s satisfaction, and +we were all able to congratulate him warmly on his +contribution to our entertainment as we emerged from +our places of security. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Organising the ball</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +A series of smaller explosions, resulting from +the drawing of corks, was the next item in the +programme, and appeared to give more general +satisfaction. Then the bell rang, and the master of +the ceremonies announced that the ball was about to +commence. Some over-zealous person had unfortunately +sought to improve the condition of the floor for +dancing, by tracing an arabesque pattern on the +boards with water, using for the purpose a tin pot +with a convenient leak at the bottom. It followed +that the exercise of waltzing in thick boots was more +laborious than graceful. Without, the villagers +crowded at the windows to gaze upon our fantastic +gyrations. But little formality had been observed in +organising the ball; in fact, the ceremony of issuing +cards of invitation had been replaced by ringing a bell +and displaying a placard on which it was announced +that the dance would commence at nine o’clock. However, +the enjoyment appeared to be none the less keen, +for all that the dancers were breathing fairly pure air, +taking no champagne, and not fulfilling any social +duty. But for the costumes the gathering might +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page232">[pg 232]</span><a name="Pg232" id="Pg232" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>have been mistaken for a fashionable entertainment. +All the recognised types to be met with in a London +ball-room were there. The conversation, judging from +the fragments overheard, did not appear to be below the +average standard of intellectuality. The ladies, who +came from the various hotels of Chamouni, displayed, as +most English girls do—<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">pace</span></span> the jealous criticism of certain +French writers, more smart than observant—their +curious faculty of improvising ball costume exactly +suitable to the occasion. There was a young man who +had a pair of white gloves, and was looked upon +with awe in consequence, and who, in the intervals of +the dances, slid about in an elegant manner instead +of walking. There was a middle-aged person of +energetic temperament who skipped and hopped like +the little hills, and kept everything going—including +the refreshments. There was a captious and cynical +person, who frowned horribly, and sat in a corner +in the verandah with an altogether superior air, and +who, in support of the character, smoked a cigar of uncertain +botanical pedigree provided by the hotel, which +disagreed with him and increased his splenetic mood. +Elsewhere, at more fashionable gatherings, he would +have leaned against doorposts, cultivated a dejected +demeanour, and got very much in other people’s way. +There was a pianist who was a very clever artist, and +found out at once the notes that yielded no response +on the instrument, and who, like his more fashionable +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page233">[pg 233]</span><a name="Pg233" id="Pg233" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>analogue, regularly required stimulants after playing +a waltz. It mattered little what he played—polka, +waltz, galop, or mazurka—whatever the tune, the +couples all rotated more or less slowly about; so it +was evidently an English gathering. At such impromptu +dances there is always a strong desire to +show off musical talent. No sooner did the hireling +pianist desist than a little cluster gathered around the +instrument, assured him that he must be tired, and +volunteered to play. Finally he was induced to rest, +and a young lady who knew <span class="tei tei-q">“Rousseau’s Dream,”</span> +or some tune very like it, triumphantly seated herself +and favoured the company with that air in waltz time, +whereat the unsuccessful candidates for the seat smiled +scornfully at each other, and rolled up their eyes, and +would not dance. So they, in turn, triumphed, and the +young lady blushed, and said she had never seen such +a stupid set of people, and went away and sat by her +parents, and thought the world was indeed hollow. +The hireling came back, and all went on merrily again. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Chamouni dances</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +In the yard outside the crowd increased. In the +midst of the throng could be seen Maurer, resplendent +in a shirt the front of which was like unto a petrified +bath-towel, wearing a coat many sizes too large, his face +beaming with smiles and shining from the effects +of drinks offered in the spirit of good fellowship on +all sides. Close by stood Burgener, displaying +similar physiognomical phenomena, his natural free +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page234">[pg 234]</span><a name="Pg234" id="Pg234" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>movements hampered by the excessive tightness of some +garments with which an admirer of smaller girth had +presented him. Let us do justice to the guides of +Chamouni, who might not unnaturally have found +some cause for disappointment that the peak had +been captured by strangers in the land. On this +occasion, at any rate, they offered the hand of good +fellowship, and listened with admiring attention while +our guides, in an unknown tongue, expatiated on the +difficulties and dangers they had successfully overcome—difficulties +which did not appear to become +less by frequent repetition. Let us leave them there. +They did their work thoroughly well, and might be +pardoned, under all the circumstances, for a little +swagger. +</p> +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The scene closes in</span></div></div> +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +The days grow shorter apace. The sun has barely +time to make the ice peaks glisten, ere the cold +shadows creep over again. Snow lies thick on ledge +and cranny, and only the steepest mountain faces +show dark through the powdery veil. Bleak night +winds whistle around the beetling crags and whirl +and chevy the wreathing snow-clouds, making weird +music in these desolate fastnesses, while the glaciers +and snow-fields collect fresh strength against the +time when their relentless destroyer shall attack them +once again at an advantage. The scene is changed. +The clear air, the delicate purity of the Alpine tints +are but recollections, and have given way to fog, mist, +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page235">[pg 235]</span><a name="Pg235" id="Pg235" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>slush, and smoke-laden atmosphere. Would you +recall these mountain pictures? Draw close the +curtains, stir the coals into an indignant crackling +blaze, and fashion, in the rising smoke, the mountain +vista. How easy it is to unlock the storehouse of the +mind where these images are stowed away! how these +scenes crowd back into the mind! What keener +charm than to pass in review the memories of these +simple, wholesome pleasures; to see again, as clear as +in the reality, every ledge, every hand and foot-hold; +to feel the fingers tingle and the muscles instinctively +contract at the recollection of some tough scramble +on rock or glacier? The pleasures of the Alps endure +long after the actual experience, and are but invested; +whether the interest can be derived by any one but +the actual investor is a matter for others to decide. +For my own part, I can only wish that any one could +possibly derive a hundredth part of the pleasure in +reading, that I have had in writing, of our adventures. +</p> + +</div><hr class="page" /><div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page236">[pg 236]</span><a name="Pg236" id="Pg236" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> +<a name="toc17" id="toc17"></a> + <a name="pdf18" id="pdf18"></a> +<h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"><span style="font-size: 173%">CHAPTER VII.</span></h1> + +<h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"><span style="font-size: 144%">BYE-DAYS IN ALPINE MIDLANDS</span></h1> + +<div class="tei tei-argument" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em"><p class="tei tei-p" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 0.90em"><span style="font-size: 90%"> +1. </span><span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-style: italic">A Pardonable Digression.</span></span> +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 0.90em"><span style="font-size: 90%"> +On well-ordered intellects—The drawbacks of accurate memory—Sub-Alpine +walks: their admirers and their recommendations—The +</span><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">High Level Route</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">—The Ruinette—An infallible prescription +for ill-humour—A climb and a meditation on grass slopes—The +agile person’s acrobatic feats—The psychological effects of +sunrise—The ascent of the Ruinette—We return to our mutton +at Arolla—A vision on the hill-side. +</span></p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 0.90em"><span style="font-size: 90%"> +2. </span><span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-style: italic">A Little Maiden.</span></span> +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 0.90em"><span style="font-size: 90%"> +Saas in the olden days—A neglected valley—The mountains drained +dry—A curious omission—The Portienhorn, and its good points +as a mountain—The chef produces a masterpiece—An undesirable +tenement to be let unfurnished—An evicted family—A +rapid act of mountaineering—On the pleasures of little climbs—The +various methods of making new expeditions on one mountain—On +the mountaineer who has nothing to learn, and his consequent +ignorance. +</span></p></div> + +<div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc19" id="toc19"></a> + <a name="pdf20" id="pdf20"></a> + <h2 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"><span style="font-size: 144%">1. </span><span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 144%; font-style: italic">A Pardonable Digression.</span></span></h2> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +There are some, and they are considered, on the +whole, fortunate by less highly gifted individuals, +who possess minds as accurately divided up into +receptacles for the storage of valuable material as a +honeycomb. Every scrap of information acquired +by the owner of such a well-ordered intellect is duly +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page237">[pg 237]</span><a name="Pg237" id="Pg237" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>sifted, purged, ticketed, and finally pigeon-holed in +its proper cell, whence it could undoubtedly be drawn +out at any future time for reference, were it not for +the fact that the pigeon-holes are all so very much +alike that the geometrically minded man commonly +forgets the number of the shelf to which he has +relegated his item of knowledge. He need not really +regret that this should be the case; persons with this +exceedingly well-ordered form of mind are apt to be +a little too precise for ordinary folk, and may even by +the captious be rated as dull creatures. A love for +the beautiful is not usually associated with excessively +tidy habits of mind. An artist’s studio in apple-pie +order would seem as unnatural as a legal document +drawn up on æsthetic principles. If the truth be told, +the picturesque is always associated with—not to +mince matters—the dirty; and the city of Hygeia, +however commendably free from the latter quality, +would be but a dreary and unattractive town. Nor +would it, as seems to be sometimes supposed, be quite +a paradise to that terrible and minatory person, the +sanitarian. On the contrary, he would probably be +found dining with the undertaker—off approved +viands—and the pair would be bewailing the hard +times. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">On well-ordered intellects</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +I knew a man once who was marvellously proud +of a certain little cabinet, devoted to the reception of +keys, all of which were arranged in a remarkably +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page238">[pg 238]</span><a name="Pg238" id="Pg238" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>orderly manner. He was fond of demonstrating the +system, which seemed, in truth, highly business-like; +but I lost faith one day in his method, on finding +that he did not know the locks which the several +keys were constructed respectively to open. It is +with the mind’s eye as with the bodily eye. We +are able only to focus sharply one thing at a time, +and the beauty of a given view, from the physiological +standpoint, consists in the softened indistinctness of +all objects out of the range of absolute focus—a fact +of which the early Florentine artists evinced a curious +disregard, and which their modern imitators, who, at +least in our scientific age, ought to know something +of the elementary laws of optics, render themselves +somewhat ridiculous by servilely copying. So is it +also with the memory. A certain indistinctness of +detail often renders the recollection even more pleasing; +we may be able only to reproduce from the +pigeon-hole, as it were, a rather indistinct, blotted-in +impression, but as the artist would be fully justified +in working up such a study into a finished picture, so +may the writer be allowed also to elaborate from his +mental sketch a complete work. Now, in wandering +in those numerous districts in the mountains of Switzerland +which cannot properly be classed as sub-Alpine, +and yet are not lofty enough to warrant their +explorer in dignifying his rambles by the term +<span class="tei tei-q">“climbing,”</span> one great charm consists in the fact that, +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page239">[pg 239]</span><a name="Pg239" id="Pg239" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>while everything is pleasing, there is no distinct +objective point that we are bidden to admire. The +critical tendency is a very constant factor in human +character, and the chief business the professional +critic has to learn consists in finding out how far he +may legitimately go, and how he may best say what +he is called upon to express. Now even the least +critical of our race, the gushing section of humanity, +feel irresistibly disposed to cavil at anything they are +told they must admire. Perhaps, though, it is not +the critical attributes which come out on such occasions +in them. Possibly it is but an example of that still more +uniformly found characteristic of man and woman, +a quality which, in the process of the descent of our +species, has been handed down without the least alteration +from such lower animals as the mule for instance, +and for which, oddly enough, we have no proper term +in our language this side of the water, but know it as +<span class="tei tei-q">“cussedness.”</span> +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The critical tendency</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Most travellers hear with a slight feeling of relief, +on arriving at their destination and inquiring what +there is to be seen, that there is nothing in particular, +and the sub-Alpine walker has this charm perpetually +with him. His expedition cannot fail, for it does not +aim at any particular object on the attainment of which +it depends whether he considers himself successful or +not. These sub-Alpine walks and rambles form the background, +the setting, the frame, and the surrounding +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page240">[pg 240]</span><a name="Pg240" id="Pg240" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>of the more sharply defined and more memorable +high expeditions. Perhaps these are but the sentiments +of advancing mountaineering age; certainly +they may be heard most often from those who +have reached that period of life when they no longer +pay heed to wrinkles in their trousers, when they are +somewhat exacting in the matter of club dinners, and +when they object strongly to receiving assistance from +younger folk in putting on their overcoats. Howbeit, +as we may recall the statement made in the +<span class="tei tei-q">“Delectus,”</span>— +</p> + <div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-left: 2.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> +<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left; margin-left: 10.00em">Neque semper arcum</div> +<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Tendit Apollo,</div> +</div> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">even so does the mountaineer occasionally relax his +muscles, and find pleasure in the Alpine midlands. +Moreover, the writer feels that the perpetual breathing +of rarefied air may be apt to induce too great a strain +on his readers, and recollects that a piano always +tuned to concert pitch is not so harmonious an instrument +as one occasionally unstrung; so some relief +is at times necessary. Contrast, inasmuch as nature +provides it on every hand, we may be sure is a thing +for which man has an instinctive craving; and to my +mind, at least, a picture in which rich colouring is +introduced, and where the result of the blending is +harmonious, is more satisfactory than the work which +appeals by what I believe artists would call <span class="tei tei-q">“tone.”</span> +The principle applies rather widely. We may have +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page241">[pg 241]</span><a name="Pg241" id="Pg241" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>observed that young ladies of prepossessing appearance +love to be accompanied by dogs of repulsive +mien. The costermonger, again, if possessed, as he +always is, of a hoarse voice, is not completely equipped +unless provided with a boy companion capable of +sending forth in alternate measure the shrillest cries +which the human larynx is capable of emitting. +Thus may the pair better vaunt their wares, compel +attention, and attract notice. The same objects, at +any rate the latter two, influence an author, and not +only in all cases, it would seem, when he is actually +engaged in writing. So our expeditions, now to be +described, may be looked upon as material for contrast, +and may be skipped if thought fit—at any rate +by purchasers—without risk of wounding the writer’s +feelings. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The </span><span class="tei tei-q"><span style="font-size: 80%">“</span><span style="font-size: 80%">High Level Route</span><span style="font-size: 80%">”</span></span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Some years ago we were travelling over that district +of the Alps which to the true lover of mountain +scenery can never become hackneyed—that is, the +stretch of glacier land between Chamouni and Zermatt, +first made known by Messrs. Foster, Jacomb, +Winkfield, and others, and known to mountaineers as +the <span class="tei tei-q">“high-level route.”</span> We had reached Monvoisin, then, +possibly still, one of the cosiest and most comfortable +little inns to be found among the mountains. An +immense variety of first-rate glacier passes of moderate +difficulty lie between this Val de Bagne and the Arolla +valley; the Col de la Serpentine, the Col Gétroz, the +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page242">[pg 242]</span><a name="Pg242" id="Pg242" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>Col de Breney, the Col Chermontane, and others, all +of high interest and varied scenery, tempt the walker +according to his powers. We selected on this occasion +the Col du Mont Rouge, having a design on the bold +little peak towering just above the Col, and known as +the Ruinette. This peak, it may be at once mentioned, +was ascended for the first time in 1865 by Mr. Edward +Whymper, a mountaineer who has never ceased happily +to add to his spoils and trophies since in all parts of +the globe, and who, unlike most of the clan, has kept +in the front rank from the day he first climbed an +Alpine slope. +</p> +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A prescription for ill-humour</span></div></div> +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +We arrived soaked through, and with deplorably +short tempers, at the hotel at Monvoisin. Now tobacco +has been vaunted as a palliative to persons +in this emotional state. Liquid remedies, described +by the vulgar-minded as <span class="tei tei-q">“a drop of something +short,”</span> or, more tersely, <span class="tei tei-q">“a wet,”</span> have been recommended +as tending to induce a healthier state +of mind. But there is one specific remedy which +never fails, and to this by tacit consent we at once +resorted. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Even as one touch of nature has been stated, on +reliable authority, to make the whole world kin, so +may one touch of a lucifer match, if discreetly applied +beneath well-seasoned logs, induce even in the most +irritable and wearied individual a change of feeling +and a calm contentment. As the logs crackled and +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page243">[pg 243]</span><a name="Pg243" id="Pg243" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>spluttered, hissing like angry cats, so did the prescription +purge away, if not the evil humours, at any rate +the ill-humour engendered by sore feet and damp +raiment, till it vanished with the smoke up the +chimney. As a matter of actual fact, however, it +ought to be stated that the greater part of the smoke at +first made its way into the room. Before long, assisted +by a passable dinner, which acts on such conditions of +mind as do the remedies known to the learned in +medicine as <span class="tei tei-q">“derivatives,”</span> we waxed monstrous merry. +We laughed heartily at our own jokes, and with almost +equal fervour at those of other people—a very creditable +state of feeling, as any who have associated much +with facetiously disposed folk will be ready to acknowledge. +As the evening wore on, and the fire burnt +lower, we became more silent and thoughtful, watching +the pale blue and green tongues of flame licking round +the charred logs. There is a pleasure, too, in this +state. No one felt disposed to break the charm of +thoughtfulness in the company by throwing on fresh +fuel. The fire had done its work, had helped matters +on, had left things a little better than it found them—an +epitome of a good and useful life. The embers fell +together at last, throwing up but a few short-lived +sparks; nothing remained but the recollection of what +had been once so bright, and a heap of ashes—a fit +emblem; for one of the party who was the life and +soul of the expedition can never again join in body +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page244">[pg 244]</span><a name="Pg244" id="Pg244" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>with us in the Alps, or revisit those Alpine midlands +he loved so keenly. We rose from our seats +and threw back the curtains from the window. The +mists had vanished, and with them all doubt and all +uncertainty, while the stream of light from the full +moon seemed a promise of peace and rest from elsewhere. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A meditation on grass slopes</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +At an early period of a walk there is always the +greatest objection to putting forth exertion, the result +of which has almost immediately to be undone. That +man is indeed robust, and possessed of three times +the ordinary amount of brass, if he fails not to find +it distasteful to walk up a hill at the end of an +expedition, or down one at the commencement. +The drawback to the commanding position of the +hotel at Monvoisin lies in the fact that it is absolutely +necessary to descend the hill to begin with, +which always seems a sinful waste of energy, seeing +that the grass slopes opposite, which are steep, +have immediately afterwards to be climbed. The +natural grass steps looked inviting, but in the language +of the Portuguese dialogue book we found them +all either <span class="tei tei-q">“too long or much short.”</span> One ascent over +a grass slope is very much like another, and description +in detail would be as wearisome as the slopes +themselves often prove. Yet it is worthy of notice +that there is an art to be acquired even in climbing +grass slopes. We had more than one opportunity on +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page245">[pg 245]</span><a name="Pg245" id="Pg245" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the present occasion of seeing that persons look +supremely ridiculous if they stumble about, and we +noticed also that, like a bowler when he has delivered +a long hop to the off for the third time in one over, +the stumbler invariably inspects the nails in his +boots, a proceeding which deceives no one. It is quite +easy to judge of a man’s real mountaineering capacity +by the way in which he attacks a steep grass +slope. The unskilful person, who fancies himself perfectly +at home amongst the intricacies of an ice-fall, +will often candidly admit that he never can walk with +well-balanced equilibrium on grass, a form of vegetable +which, it might be thought in many instances +of self-sufficient mountaineers, would naturally suit +them. There is often real danger in such places, +and not infrequently the wise man will demand the +use of the rope, especially when there are any tired +members among the party. There is no better way +of learning how to preserve a proper balance on a +slope than by practising on declivities of moderate +steepness, and it is astonishing to find how often +those who think they have little to learn, or, still +worse, believe that there is nothing to learn, will find +themselves in difficulties on a mountain-side, and +forced to realise that they have got themselves into +a rather humiliating position. We may have seen +before now, all of us, distinguished cragsmen to +whom an ascent of the Weisshorn or Matterhorn +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page246">[pg 246]</span><a name="Pg246" id="Pg246" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>was but a mere stroll, utterly pounded in botanical +expeditions after Edelweiss, and compelled to regain a +position of security by very ungraceful sprawls, or, +worse still, have to resort to the unpardonable alternative +of asking for assistance. It is on such places that +the skill born of constant practice is best shown in the +peasant as contrasted with the amateur; but the latter +could easily acquire the art, were he not, as a rule, too +high and mighty to do so. It is a great point, too, if the +expedition is to be thoroughly enjoyed, to transport +one’s self over the earlier part of the day’s climb with +the least possible amount of exertion. The art possibly +resembles that which, I am told, is acquired by those +of ill-regulated minds, whom the force of circumstances +and the interests of society compel to exercise themselves +for a certain number of hours daily in that +form of unproductive labour exemplified in the +machine known as the treadmill. No doubt the very +ardent mountaineer might find that facilities would +be accorded to him during such time as he cannot +visit the Alps of practising this art in the manner +indicated. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The agile person’s vagaries</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Before long, the smooth unbroken snow slope leading +up to the Col du Mont Rouge, glistening like a +sheet of amber-coloured satin in the light of early +dawn, came into sight. One of the party, who had complained +throughout of the slow pace at which he had +been going, and who was already far ahead, now went +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page247">[pg 247]</span><a name="Pg247" id="Pg247" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>through a singular performance. Conceiving that +he would stimulate us to greater exertion by displaying +his own agility, he suddenly shot forth, as +an arrow from the bow, and ran at great speed on to +the snow slope. But he had misjudged the hardness +of the snow. It fell out, therefore, that after two +or three curious flounders his limbs suddenly shot +out to all points of the compass. A desperate effort +to recall his members under control resulted only in +his suddenly coiling up into a little round ball, like +a spider in a state of nervousness, and in that +shape descending with considerable momentum, and +not a few bumps, down the slope over some knobby +stones and on to a fortunately placed little grass +ledge. When we joined him a few minutes later, he +observed unblushingly that he had found a capital +place for breakfast. So have I seen a skater, after +performing a few exercises of a somewhat violent +nature, resembling the dances performed by nigger +minstrels wearing excessively long boots, suddenly sit +down and instantly adjust a perfectly correctly +applied strap. On resuming our journey the agile +member was firmly secured with a rope, for fear, as +we told him, that he should become possessed with +a sudden idea to hunt for a suitable place for +luncheon by resorting to his previous tactics. Somewhat +crestfallen, he took a place in the rear of the +caravan, and condescended to make use of the little +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page248">[pg 248]</span><a name="Pg248" id="Pg248" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>notches scraped out by the leader in the hard +snow. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Ascent of the Ruinette</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +A few minutes later the full sunlight of early +morning burst upon us, and produced, as it always +does on such occasions, a feeling of supreme contempt +for those slothful individuals who had not got up +as early as we had. This moment of exhilaration +is often the very best of a whole expedition, and is +apt to lead, I know not why, to an ebullition of +feeling, which usually takes the form of horse-play +and practical joking. A series of gentle slopes led us +up to the Col. Our ascent took us gradually round the +base of the Ruinette, and we cast anxious glances to +our right to see if any practicable line of rocks could +be made out. The mountain is tolerably steep from +this side, but the rocks are broken and were bare of +snow. On the summit of the Col the party divided, the +agile person and some of the others deciding that they +would go straight on to Arolla, while Burgener and I +bespoke the services of the porter, and made straight +for the long buttress of rock running down almost +directly to the Col on the north-west face of the +mountain. Half an hour’s complicated scrambling +resulted in our attaining a little level plateau of +rock on the ridge. As we looked down on to the +great snow-field from which the Gétroz glacier takes +its origin, we perceived, far away, the forms of our +companions looking like a flight of driven grouse +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page249">[pg 249]</span><a name="Pg249" id="Pg249" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>about a quarter of a minute after the sportsman has +missed them with both barrels. No doubt they were +enjoying themselves thoroughly, but from our point of +view the sight of some four or five individuals walking +along at ten-foot intervals with bowed heads and +plodding gait did not suggest any very consummate +pleasure. Rejoicing, therefore, that they were making +nice tracks for us to follow later in the day, we turned +again to the rocks above. Following always the ridge, +we clambered straight up, and found opportunities +for very pretty gymnastics (that is, from our own +point of view) on this part of the mountain. Our +object was to select rocks that would give good practice +in climbing, rather than to pick out the easiest +possible line, and as a result we got into more than +one difficult place, difficult enough at any rate to +demand much conversation on the part of the guides. +In about three hours from the Col we found ourselves +looking over the arête on to the southern side of the +mountain with a very compact and varied view in all +directions. Close by, the long ridge of the Serpentine +formed a fine foreground, and a wide expanse of +glacier district made up a tolerably wild panorama. +A few minutes’ climbing along the crest landed us +above a deep notch filled in with soft snow. Into +this we plunged, and in another minute or two +stood on the summit of the Ruinette. So far as we +knew at the time, the mountain had not previously +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page250">[pg 250]</span><a name="Pg250" id="Pg250" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>been ascended from the northern side, and, indeed, +the peak does not appear to be visited nearly so often +as it deserves. Following for the most part the +same line as that taken during the ascent, we regained, +in about a couple of hours, the Col. Here +we hunted diligently, seeking what we might devour, +and feeling sure that our friends would have left us +something as a reward for our energy. It transpired, +however, subsequently, that the agile person’s exertions +had provoked in him such an appetite that there +was little if anything to leave, so we followed the +tracks laid out in the snow, noticing with some +concern that one member of the previous party had +sunk at every step some eighteen inches deeper into +the soft compound than anybody else. By the marks +on the snow we perceived, also, that he had trailed +his axe along by his side, a sure sign of weariness. +By sunset we had gained the Pas de Chévres, and ran +gaily down the gentle slope towards the hotel. A +little distance from the building we came so suddenly +upon a manly form, outstretched, like a stranded +star-fish, on a mossy bank, that we almost leaped upon +his stomach. Yet he moved not, and was apparently +wrapped in slumber. We stopped and crept cautiously +up to survey him more closely. It was the agile +person. +</p> +</div><div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page251">[pg 251]</span><a name="Pg251" id="Pg251" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> +<a name="toc21" id="toc21"></a> + <a name="pdf22" id="pdf22"></a> +<h2 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"><span style="font-size: 144%">2. </span><span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 144%; font-style: italic">A Little Maiden.</span></span></h2> +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Saas in the olden days</span></div></div> +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +In the old days of mountaineering, Saas was a +place more often talked about than visited. The +beauty of the scenery around was indeed unquestionable, +the number of expeditions of every degree of difficulty +seemed almost without limit, first-rate guides +could be obtained with ease, and yet there was never +any difficulty in finding quarters in the hotels. In +ascending the main valley from Visp the great stream +of travellers divided at Stalden into a large stream +that made its way to Zermatt and a little rivulet that +meandered along the much finer valley towards Saas +and the Mattmark. It thus fell out that, notwithstanding +a small body of indefatigable mountaineers +had explored the higher peaks and passes on both +sides of the valley with tolerable completeness, there +was left a considerable number of smaller expeditions +capable of providing good amusement for the climber +desirous of acquiring fame or of exploring the less +known districts. In these days, when the soaring +ambition of mountaineers has led them to climb +heights far greater than any found in the Alps, an +account of an expedition of an unimportant peak may +seem out of place. Indeed, its details were so devoid +of sensational incident that the recital may be dull; +but, as will appear directly, that is not the writer’s +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page252">[pg 252]</span><a name="Pg252" id="Pg252" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>fault; at any rate, he ventures to give it, for the same +reason that invariably prompts youthful authors to +write unnecessary books; that is, as they say in their +preface, to supply a want long felt—a want, it may +be stated, usually felt in their own pockets and nowhere +else. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +With every respect to the older generation +of mountaineers, they are much to blame in one +matter. The stock of Alpine jokes is scanty; indeed, +a well-read author can get them all, with a little arrangement, +into the compass of one short description +of a day in the mountains. Again, the number of +Alpine subjects lending themselves to facetiousness is +but small. The supply has been proved beyond +question entirely inadequate to meet the demand, but +former writers have recklessly drawn on this limited +stock and entirely exhausted the topics, if not the +readers. Some allowance may therefore be made +when the position is considered, and it is realised that +the writer is endeavouring to patch together a fabric +with materials almost too threadbare for use, and that +he is compelled wholly to pass by such attractive topics +as the early start and consequent ill-temper, the dirty +porter, the bergschrund, the use of tobacco, or the +flea. The last-mentioned beast is in fact now universally +prohibited from intrusion into polite Alpine +literature; he has had his day. But why? he has +surely some right to the place. An eminent French +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page253">[pg 253]</span><a name="Pg253" id="Pg253" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>composer<a id="noteref_6" name="noteref_6" href="#note_6"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">6</span></span></a> has written a ballad in his honour; but +though, as old Hans Andersen wrote, he was much +thought of at one time, and occupied a high position, +seeing that he was in the habit of mixing with the +human race, and might even have royal blood in his +veins, yet he is now deposed. I cannot forbear from +paying a last tribute to the memory of a departing, +though formerly constant, companion. To find oneself +obliged to cut the acquaintance of a friend whom I have +fed with my own hand must give rise to some qualms. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Unfortunately, too, the older writings are too well +known of many to be dished up again in altered form, +like a Sunday dinner in the suburbs; so that even +the most common form of originality, videlicet, forgetfulness +of the source from which you are borrowing, +is forbidden. Plagiarism is a crime that seldom is +allowed to pass undetected. There are many people +in this world possessed of such a small amount of +originality themselves, that they spend their whole +time in searching for the want of that quality in +others. The human inhabitants of the ark, unless +they made the most of their unexampled opportunities +for the study of natural history, must have become +desperately bored with each other, and no doubt, +when set free, said all the good things, each in their +own independent nucleus of commencing society, which +they had heard while immured. On the whole, it is +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page254">[pg 254]</span><a name="Pg254" id="Pg254" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>fortunate for writers that the period known as the +dark ages came to pass; it allowed those who commenced +their career on this side of the hiatus to make, +on the old lines, a perfectly fresh start. +</p> +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A curious omission</span></div></div> +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Perhaps no country in the world has had the +minute topography of its uninhabited districts so +thoroughly worked out as Switzerland. Beyond +question the orography is more accurately given +than anywhere else; in this respect, indeed, no +other country can compare with it. It might seem, +even to those who have studied the matter, almost +impossible to find any corner of the Alps that has not +been described; and the discovery that a few superficial +square yards of Swiss territory, arranged on an +incline, had not been discussed in detail came upon +the writer with somewhat of a shock. It was clearly +somebody’s duty to rectify the omission and fill the +gap; whether the expedition was of importance from +any point of view, or whether any one in the wide +world had the smallest desire to read a description of +it, was a matter of no moment whatever. There was +a vacuum, and it was a thing abhorrent. The mountain, +to which reference is made above, lies east of +Saas, and is known to such of the inhabitants as have +any knowledge of geography as the Portienhorn. +Substantially this peak is the highest point of a long +rocky ridge running north and south, and called the +Portien Grat. +</p> + +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page255">[pg 255]</span><a name="Pg255" id="Pg255" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The chef’s masterpiece</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +One fine evening we sat outside the inn at Saas +just before dinner, seriously discussing the prospect +of climbing this mountain. The guides were of +opinion that we ought to sleep out, and surmised +that the rocks might be found much more difficult +than they looked. With some reluctance on our part +<a name="corr255" id="corr255" class="tei tei-anchor"></a><span class="tei tei-corr">their</span> views were allowed to prevail on the point, and +they started off in triumph, promising to return and +report when all the necessary preparations for starting +should be completed, while we went in to prepare ourselves +for the next day by an early dinner. The inn +in those days was somewhat rude, and the cuisine was +not remarkable save for the extraordinary faculty +possessed by the chef for cooking anything that happened +to come in his way, and reducing it all to the +same level of tastelessness. On the present occasion, +however, stimulated, no doubt, by certain critical +rebukes, he had determined to surpass himself. +Towards the end of the repast, as we sat chewing +some little wooden toothpicks, which were found to +have more flavour than anything else placed on the +table, we heard the chef cross the yard and go into +a certain little outhouse. A few minutes later a +subtle and delicate aroma made its way into the +apartment, leading us, after a few interrogative sniffs, +to get up and close the window. Gradually the +savour became more pronounced, and one of the party +gave expression to his opinion that there was now +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page256">[pg 256]</span><a name="Pg256" id="Pg256" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>satisfactory proof of the accuracy of his constant +statement that the drains were out of order. Gradually +intensifying, the savour assumed the decided +character of a smell, and we looked out of window +to see in which direction the cemetery lay. Stronger +and stronger grew the perception as steps came +mounting up the stairs; the door opened, and all +doubt was set at rest as the chef entered, bearing +proudly a large cheese. In a moment, to his dismay, +he was left undisputed master of the apartment. +</p> +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">An evicted family</span></div></div> +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +We left Saas equipped as for a serious expedition. +A stout rustic, who was the most preternaturally ugly +man I ever saw, led the way; he had a very large +mouth and an odd-shaped face, so that he resembled +a frog with a skewer wedged across inside his cheeks. +On his back he bore a bag full of very spiky straw, +which the guides said was a mattress. In about an +hour’s time we arrived at a carelessly built chalet on +the Almagel Alp, of which the outside was repulsive +and the inside revolting. But the experienced mountaineer, +on such occasions, is not easily put out, and +exhibits very little astonishment at anything he may +see, and none at anything that he may smell. The +hut consisted of a single apartment, furnished with a +fireplace and a bed. The fireplace was situated in +the centre of the room; the couch was separated by +a dilapidated hoarding from a shed tenanted by a +cow of insatiable appetite—indeed, it may have been +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page257">[pg 257]</span><a name="Pg257" id="Pg257" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>originally designed as a manger. The bed, which +accommodated apparently the family of the tenant, +was found on actual measurement to be forty-eight +inches in length and twenty in width; nevertheless +the two guides packed themselves into it, adopting in +their recumbent position the theory that if you keep +your head and your feet warm you are all right. By +the flickering gleams of firelight it could be perceived +through the smoke that these were the only portions +of their frames actually in the bed owing to its excessive +shortness; but guides share, with babies in +perambulators, a happy faculty of being able to sleep +peacefully whatever be the position of their heads. +The dispossessed family of the tenant would not +submit, notwithstanding strong remarks, to summary +eviction, and watched our proceedings with much +interest. It was pointed out to them that curiosity +was a vicious quality, that it had been defined as +looking over other people’s affairs and overlooking +one’s own, and that, on the whole, they had better +retire, which they did reluctantly, to a little shed in +which was a large copper pot with other cheese-making +accessories. Apparently they spent the night in +scouring the copper pot. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +The mattress proved to be so tightly packed that +it was easier, on the whole, to lie awake under it than +to sleep on the top of it, and less painful. About +4 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> one of the guides incautiously moved his head, +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page258">[pg 258]</span><a name="Pg258" id="Pg258" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>and having thus disturbed his equilibrium fell heavily +on to the floor. Thereupon he woke up and said it +was time to start. We bade a cheerful adieu to our +host, who was obtaining such repose as could be got +by the process of leaning against the doorpost, and +made our way upwards. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +On the south side of the Portienhorn a long and +rough rocky ridge, preserving a tolerably uniform +height, extends as far as the Sonnighorn. Ultimately +the ridge, still running in a southerly direction, +curves slightly round to the west up to the +Monte Moro, and thus forms the head of the Saas +valley. There are several unimportant peaks in this +ridge perhaps equally worthy, with the Portienhorn, +of a place in literature; but of all the points south of +the Weissmies this Portienhorn is perhaps the most +considerable, and certainly the most difficult of access. +At any rate, we climbed the peak, and this is how we +did it. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A short cut after a knife</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +It was clear that the southern ridge was more +feasible than the northern one, which drops to a col +known as the Zwischbergen Pass, and then rises +again to merge into the mass of the Weissmies. The +whole of the western slope of the Portienhorn is +covered by the Rothblatt Glacier, the ice of which is +plastered up against its sides. We kept to the left of +the termination of this glacier, and after a brief look +round turned our steps away from the rock buttress +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page259">[pg 259]</span><a name="Pg259" id="Pg259" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>forming the northern boundary of the glacier, though +we were of opinion that we might by this line ascend +the mountain; but we nevertheless selected the southern +ridge, on the same principle that the sportsman, +perfectly capable of flying across any obstacle, however +high, sometimes, out of consideration no doubt for his +horse, elects to follow somebody else through a gap. +In good time we reached a point about halfway up +the side of the mountain, and halted at the upper +edge of a sloping patch of snow. It was fortunate +that we had ample time to spare, for considerable +delay was experienced here. Burgener had become +newly possessed of a remarkable knife, which he was +perpetually taking out of his pocket and admiring +fondly; in fact, it provided material for conversation +to the guides for the whole day. The knife was an +intricate article, and strikingly useless, being weak in +the joints; but nevertheless Burgener was vastly +proud of the weapon, and valued it as much as an +ugly man does a compliment. In the middle of +breakfast the treasure suddenly slipped out of his +hand, and started off down the slope. With a yell of +anguish he bounded off after it, and went down the +rocks in a manner and at a pace that only a guide in +a state of excitement can exhibit. The incident was +trivial, but it impressed on me the extraordinary +powers of sure-footedness and quickness on rocks that +a good guide possesses. An amateur might have +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page260">[pg 260]</span><a name="Pg260" id="Pg260" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>climbed after these men the whole day, and have +thought that he was nearly as good as they, but he +could no more have gone down a couple of hundred +feet as this guide did without committing suicide, +than he could have performed a double-three backwards +the first time he put on skates. He might, indeed, have +gone backwards, but he would not have achieved his +double-three. Turning northwards the moment we +were on the arête, we made our way, with a good deal +of scrambling, upwards. The rocks were firm and +good, and, being dry, gave no great difficulty. Still +they were far from easy, and now and again there +were short passages sufficiently troublesome to yield +the needed charm to a mountain climb, difficult +enough at any rate to make us leave our axes behind +and move one at a time. But how have the times +altered since our expedition was made! Nowadays +such a climb would be more fitly mentioned casually +after dinner as <span class="tei tei-q">“a nice little walk before church,”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“a +capital after-breakfast scramble,”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“a stroll strongly recommended +to persons of an obese habit,”</span> and so forth. +Nevertheless, there is a very distinct pleasure in +climbing up a peak of this sort—greater, perhaps, than +may be found on many of the more highly rated, +formidable, and, if the truth be told, fashionable +mountains; for the expedition was throughout interesting, +and the contrast between the view to the west +where the Mischabelhörner reared up their massive +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page261">[pg 261]</span><a name="Pg261" id="Pg261" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>forms, and to the east looking towards Domo d’Ossola +and the Italian lake district, was one to repay a +climber who has eyes as well as limbs. The crest +was in places tolerably sharp, and we were forced at +times to adopt the expedient, conventionally supposed +to be the only safe one in such cases, of bestriding +the rock edge. It should be stated, however, that, +as usual on such occasions, when we desired to progress +we discarded this position, and made our way +onwards in the graceful attitude observed at the seaside +in those who are hunting on the sand for marine +specimens. And thus we arrived ultimately at the +top, where we gave way to a properly regulated amount +of subdued enthusiasm, proportionate to the difficulty +and height of the vanquished mountain. No trace of +previous travellers could be found on the summit. It +was a maiden ascent. Doubtless the mythical and +ubiquitous chamois-hunter had been up before us, for +at the time I write of the district was noted for +chamois; but even if he had, it makes no difference. +We have found it long since necessary to look upon +ascents stated to have been made by chamois-hunters +as counting for nothing, and in the dearth of new peaks +in the Alps, have to resort to strange devices and +strained ideas for novelty. Thus, a mountain in the +present day can be the means of bringing glory and +honour to many climbers. For instance:— +</p> + +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page262">[pg 262]</span><a name="Pg262" id="Pg262" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <table summary="This is a table" cellspacing="0" class="tei tei-table" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><colgroup span="3"></colgroup><tbody><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell">A</td> + <td class="tei tei-cell">climbs it</td> + <td class="tei tei-cell">First ascent.</td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell">B</td> + <td class="tei tei-cell">ascends it</td> + <td class="tei tei-cell">First recorded ascent.</td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell">C</td> + <td class="tei tei-cell">goes up it</td> + <td class="tei tei-cell">First ascent from the other side.</td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell">D</td> + <td class="tei tei-cell">combines A and C’s + expedition</td> + <td class="tei tei-cell">First time that the peak has + been <span class="tei tei-q">“colled.”</span></td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell">E</td> + <td class="tei tei-cell">scrambles up the + wrong way</td> + <td class="tei tei-cell">First ascent by the E.N.E. + arête.</td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell">F</td> + <td class="tei tei-cell">climbs it in the ordinary + way</td> + <td class="tei tei-cell">First ascent by an Englishman, + or first ascent without guides.</td> + </tr><tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell">G</td> + <td class="tei tei-cell">is dragged up by his + guides</td> + <td class="tei tei-cell">First real ascent; because all + the others were ignorant of +the topographical details, and +G’s peak is nearly three feet +higher than any other point. +</td> + </tr></tbody></table> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Many more might be added; probably in the +future many more will, for, in modern mountaineering +phrase, the Portienhorn <span class="tei tei-q">“goes all over.”</span> By 4 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span> +we were back again in the Saas valley. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +It seems, as I write, only yesterday that all this +happened. But a regular revolution has really taken +place. There can be no question, I think, that fewer +real mountaineers are to be found in the old <span class="tei tei-q">“playground”</span> +than formerly. Still, there are not wanting +climbers, all of them apparently of the first rank. +For among the high Alps now, even as on the dramatic +stage of to-day, there are no amateurs. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The amateur</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +A curious human fungus that has grown up +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page263">[pg 263]</span><a name="Pg263" id="Pg263" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>suddenly of late is the emancipated schoolboy spoken +of by a certain, principally feminine, clique of admirers +as <span class="tei tei-q">“such a wonderful actor, you know.”</span> Very learned +is he in the technicalities of the stage. The perspiring +audience in the main drawing-room he alludes to as +<span class="tei tei-q">“those in front.”</span> He knows what <span class="tei tei-q">“battens”</span> are, and +<span class="tei tei-q">“flies,”</span> and <span class="tei tei-q">“tormentors,”</span> and <span class="tei tei-q">“spider-traps.”</span> He endeavours +to imitate well-known actors, but does not +imitate the laborious process by which these same +artists arrive at successful results. But we all know +him, and are aware also, at any rate by report, of his +overweening vanity, and the manner in which he +intrudes his conception of <span class="tei tei-q">“Hamlet”</span> or <span class="tei tei-q">“Richelieu”</span> +on a longsuffering public. Without the slightest +knowledge technically of how to walk, talk, sit down, +go off, or come on, he rushes on the boards possessed +solely of such qualifications for his task as may arise +in a brain fermenting with conceit. Critics he regards +as persons existing solely for the purpose of crushing +him, and showing ill-tempered hostility born of envy. +The judicious, if they accept and weakly avail themselves +of orders, can but grieve and marvel that there +should exist that curious state of folly which prompts +a man to exhibit it before the world, or even to thrust +it upon his fellow-creatures. Some men are born +foolish—a pity, no doubt, but the circumstances are +beyond their own control; some achieve a reputation +for lack of wisdom, and even make it pay; but some +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page264">[pg 264]</span><a name="Pg264" id="Pg264" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>thrust their folly on others, and to such no quarter +need be given. The self-constituted exponent of a +most difficult art is not a whit more ridiculous than +the boy or man who rushes at a difficult peak before +he has learnt the elements of mountaineering science. +A man may become a good amateur actor if he will +consent to devote his leisure to ascertaining what +there is to learn, and trying to learn it; and a man +may become a good mountaineer by adopting the +same line of action. But this is rarely the case. Too +often they forget that, as a late president of the +Alpine Club remarked, <span class="tei tei-q">“life is a great opportunity, +not to be thrown away lightly.”</span> It is said sometimes +by unreflecting persons that such institutions as the +Alpine Club are responsible for the misfortunes and +calamities that have arisen from time to time, and +may still arise. But there has been a good example +set if recruits would only turn to it; for the mountaineers +in the old style, speaking of a generation +that climbs but little in these days, did what it is +the fashion now to call their <span class="tei tei-q">“work”</span> thoroughly—too +thoroughly and completely, perhaps, to please altogether +their successors. Novelty in the mountains of Switzerland +may be exhausted, but there are still too +many expeditions of which, because they have been +done once or twice, the danger is not adequately +recognised. If these remarks, written in no captious +spirit, but rather with the strongest desire to lay +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page265">[pg 265]</span><a name="Pg265" id="Pg265" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>stress on truths that are too often ignored, should +lead any aspiring but unpractised mountaineer to +pause and reflect before he tries something beyond +his strength and capabilities, some little good will at +least have been done. It is not that the rules are +unknown; they are simple, short, ready to hand, and +intelligible; but the penalty that may be exacted for +breaking any of them is a terribly heavy one—<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">absit +omen.</span></span> +</p> +</div> +</div><hr class="page" /><div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page266">[pg 266]</span><a name="Pg266" id="Pg266" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> +<a name="toc23" id="toc23"></a> + <a name="pdf24" id="pdf24"></a> +<h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"><span style="font-size: 173%">CHAPTER VIII.</span></h1> + +<h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"><span style="font-size: 144%">A SENTIMENTAL ALPINE JOURNEY</span></h1> + +<div class="tei tei-argument" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em"><p class="tei tei-p" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 0.90em"><span style="font-size: 90%"> +Long </span><span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">waits</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%"> and entr’actes—The Mont Buet as an unknown +mountain—We hire carriages—A digression on a stationary +vehicle—A straggling start—The incomplete moralist—The niece +to the moralist—A discourse on gourmets—An artistic interlude—We +become thoughtful, and reach the height of sentiment and +the top of the Mont Buet—Some other members of the party—The +mountaineers perform—How glissading ambition did o’erleap +itself—A vision on the summit—The moralist leaves us for +a while—Entertainment at the Bérard Chalet—View of the +Aiguille Verte—The end of the journey. +</span></p></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +A fair critic—in the matter of sex—discussing a +recently published work with the author, remarked +that it was the most charming book she had ever +read. <span class="tei tei-q">“I was told it would not interest me,”</span> she +remarked most seriously to him, <span class="tei tei-q">“but really I found +it delightful: there are such lovely wide margins to +the pages, you know.”</span> On much the same principle a +highly intelligent lady, noted for her theatrical discrimination, +once remarked that she liked those +theatres best which afforded the longest entr’actes. +So in the Alps we felt from time to time the necessity, +between the more stirring episodes resulting from +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page267">[pg 267]</span><a name="Pg267" id="Pg267" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>higher mountaineering, to interpose minor expeditions, +on which no less care and thought was often lavished +to make them worthy of pursuit. These were our +entr’actes. Of such expeditions it is customary to say +that they are the most enjoyable of any undertaken. +Without going so far as this, it may be conceded that +they have a pleasure of their own, and it is at least +no more difficult to discover a novel form of sub-Alpine +expedition than to vary the details of a big +climb. One of these episodes, undertaken while we +were barred from the higher mountains by a fall +of snow, consisted in a night attack on the Mont +Buet. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Mont Buet</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Now the Mont Buet, although it lies close to the +regular highway to Chamouni from the Rhone valley, +is a peak but rarely even seen of the ordinary tourist; +and, considering the numbers of our countrymen +that flock to the village whence they imagine that +they see the summit of Mont Blanc, the English folk +who make the ascent are strangely few. Yet the walk +is not a laborious one; not more fatiguing, for +example, than the tramp from Martigny to Chamouni +over the Col de Balme on a hot day. Fashion in the +mountains is very conservative, and probably it is too +late in the day now to hope that this mountain will +ever gain all the reputation it deserves, for, though +comparatively unknown, its praises have been by no +means left unsung. Possibly the lowness of the guides’ +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page268">[pg 268]</span><a name="Pg268" id="Pg268" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>tariff for the peak may have something to do with the +matter, and may serve to explain why it is so much +left out in the cold; for this is a very potent agent +in determining the attractiveness of special localities. +How many go to Chamouni, and never wander along +one of the most beautiful sylvan paths in the Alps, +that leads to the Glacier des Bossons through the +woods, where the view, as the spectator suddenly finds +himself confronted with the huge stream of pure +glacier, topped by a most magnificent ice-fall, and +backed by the crags of the Aiguille du Midi, compares +by no means unfavourably with the more frequently +photographed panorama from the Montanvert. Ask +a dozen persons at haphazard who are staying at +Chamouni where the Mont Buet is, and ten out of the +number will be unable to answer you. But the +pictures hung on the line are not invariably the best +in an exhibition; and the Mont Buet is a masterpiece, +so to speak, <span class="tei tei-q">“skied.”</span> +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">We hire carriages</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Our party that summer at Chamouni was a large +one, for we had stayed a long time in the hotel, and +knew, as the phrase goes, a great many to speak to—quite +a different thing to answering for them. We +conceived the plan of so timing our modest expedition +as to arrive on the summit of the Mont Buet about +sunset. It was agreed by some members of the party +that it would be <span class="tei tei-q">“such fun, you know,”</span> to come down +in the dark. The inference to be gathered from this +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page269">[pg 269]</span><a name="Pg269" id="Pg269" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>is that the party was not exclusively composed of the +male sex. Two of us, reputed to be good at a bargain, +were deputed to charter carriages to convey +the members of the expedition up to Argentière, +where the ascent commenced. The carriages of +Chamouni, though no doubt practical and well suited +to the mountain roads, were not found to be of +uniform excellence. Availing ourselves of a proper +<a name="corr269" id="corr269" class="tei tei-anchor"></a><span class="tei tei-corr">introduction</span>, we made the temporary acquaintance +of an individual interested officially in vehicular +traffic, who possessed that remarkable insight into +character noticeable in all who are concerned with +horses, and knew exactly what we wanted without any +preliminary explanation on our part. <span class="tei tei-q">“Voilà votre +affaire,”</span> he said, and indicated a machine that would +have been out of date when the first <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">char-à-banc</span></span> was +constructed. We inquired if the somewhat unsavoury +load (it had, apparently, been in recent requisition +for farming purposes) which the cart contained might +be removed, and he said there was no objection to +this. <span class="tei tei-q">“See,”</span> said the proprietor, <span class="tei tei-q">“the seats have +backs.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“But they tip up,”</span> we remonstrated. <span class="tei tei-q">“That +is nothing,”</span> rejoined the proprietor; <span class="tei tei-q">“they can be tied +down: the carriage is good, and has gone many miles. +However, Monsieur is evidently particular; he shall +be satisfied. Behold!”</span> and the proprietor threw +open the creaking door of a shed, and revealed to +our gaze a pretentious landau with faded linings and +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page270">[pg 270]</span><a name="Pg270" id="Pg270" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>wheels which did not seem to be circular. This +<span class="tei tei-q">“machine,”</span> he assured us, it would be hard to equal +for locomotive purposes. Two strange beasts were +connected to it, chiefly, as it seemed, by bits of string. +One of the animals was supported on two very puffy +hind legs and two very tremulous fore-legs, and +seemed perpetually on the point of going down on +its knees to supplicate that it might be allowed to go +no further. Its companion was a horse of the most +gloomy nature, that no amount of chastisement could +stir from a despondent and pensive frame of mind. +Both these treasures had a capacity for detecting an +upward incline that was marvellously acute. Then +there was a structure like a magnified perambulator, +of which one wheel was afflicted with a chronic propensity +for squeaking, while the other described a +curious serpentine track as it rolled along. Not +being, however, in any particular hurry, we decided +to avail ourselves of such assistance as these vehicles +might afford, and did, as a matter of fact, ultimately +reach our destination, if not in, at least with them. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The incomplete moralist</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +From Argentière we followed the familiar track of +the Tête Noire for some little distance, and then bore +away to the left up the valley leading towards the Bérard +Chalet. The party, which had kept well together for +the first few minutes after parting with the carriages, +were soon straggling off in every direction, and the +chief organiser of the expedition, desperately anxious +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page271">[pg 271]</span><a name="Pg271" id="Pg271" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>lest some should go astray and be no more found, ran +to and fro from one little group to another, and got +into a highly excitable frame of mind, like a busily +minded little dog when first taken out for a walk. +Chief among the more erratic members was an +elderly person who had, unwisely, been asked to join +the party for no very definite reason, but because +some one had said that it would be obviously incomplete +without him. The old gentleman had no +previous experience of mountain walks, but had very +complete theories on the subject. He had made +great preparations for his day’s climb, had carefully +dieted himself the day previously, and was not a little +proud of his equipment and attire. He was furnished +with a spiked umbrella, a green tin box, and +a particularly thin pair of boots; for he wished to +prove the accuracy of a theory that man, being +descended from the apes, might properly use his feet +as prehensile members, and he held that this additional +aid would prove valuable on rocks. It was currently +reported, notwithstanding his loquacity, that he was +a very wise person, and indeed he dropped hints himself, +which he was much annoyed if we did not take, +on the subject of a projected literary work. We were +given to understand that the publishers were all +hankering after the same, and he had a manner in +conversation of tentatively quoting passages and +watching eagerly for the effects. He was known to +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page272">[pg 272]</span><a name="Pg272" id="Pg272" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>us as the incomplete moralist, and proved to be a +very didactic person. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The niece to the moralist</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +But this was not all; there was one other member +of the party, who may be described, as in the old-fashioned +list of the <span class="tei tei-q">“Dramatis Personæ,”</span> as <span class="tei tei-q">“niece to +the moralist.”</span> Somehow or another, she seemed to +lead everything; instinctively all gave way to her +wishes, and even the chief organiser looked to her for +confirmation of his opinions before enunciating them +with decision. Bright, impulsive, wilful, she led the +moralist, subjectively speaking, whither she would, and +he had no chance at all. <span class="tei tei-q">“She ought not to have +come at all on such an expedition,”</span> he said, looking at +the light, fragile form ahead; <span class="tei tei-q">“but you know you can’t +persuade a butterfly to take systematic exercise, and +everything seems to give her so much pleasure;”</span> and +here the moralist looked rather wistful, and somehow +the artificiality seemed to fade away from him for the +moment. <span class="tei tei-q">“Such of us,”</span> he resumed, <span class="tei tei-q">“as stay long +enough in this world cease to have much hopefulness; +and when that quality shows up too strong in the +young, such as that child yonder, somehow I don’t +think they often——”</span> Here he paused abruptly, and, +selecting a meat lozenge from a store in his tin box, +put it into his mouth and apparently swallowed it at +once; at any rate, he gulped down something. It +must be allowed that the moralist had done his best +to prevent his charge from accompanying the party. +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page273">[pg 273]</span><a name="Pg273" id="Pg273" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>She had been reminded of what learned doctors had +said, that she was not to exert herself; that certain +persons, vaguely alluded to, would be very angry, and +so forth. The moralist had been talked down in two +minutes. He might as well have pointed out to +the little budding leaflets the unwisdom of mistaking +warm days in March for commencing summer; and, +finally, he had surrendered at discretion, fencing himself +in with some stipulations as to warm cloaks, +<span class="tei tei-q">“this once only,”</span> and the like, which he knew would +not be attended to. So she came, and her eager +brightness shed a radiance over the most commonplace +objects, and infected the most prosaic of the +party, even a young lady of varied accomplishments, +who distinguished herself later on. After all, if the +flame burned a little more brightly at the expense of +a limited stock of fuel, was there anything to regret? +Tone down such brightness as hers was, and you have +but an uncut diamond, or a plant that may possibly +last a little longer because its blossom, its fruit, and +with them its beauties, have been cut off to preserve +the dull stem to the utmost. Check the natural +characteristics and outflow of such natures, and you +force them to the contemplation of what is painful +and gloomy. You bring them back fully to this +world, and it is their greatest privilege to be but half +in it, and to have eyes blind to the seamy side. The +Alpine rose-glow owes its fascination to the fact that +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page274">[pg 274]</span><a name="Pg274" id="Pg274" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>we know it will soon fade. So is it with these natures. +They are to be envied. We may hold it truth with +him who sings, <span class="tei tei-q">“Better fifty years of Europe than a +cycle of Cathay.”</span> But the parallel is not strictly +true: the brightness will not fade, but will be there +to the end, and the streak of sadness running through +it all gives the fascination. So the wit that approaches +nearest to pathos touches us most deeply, and is one +of the rarest of intellectual talents. With what a +thrill of mixed, but yet pleasurable, sensation do we +recall the timely jest of a lost friend. But all this +has nothing to do with a holiday expedition in the +Alps. Still, it must be remembered, we were on a +sentimental journey in the mountains. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Before long the chief organiser, seizing an opportunity +when most of the stragglers were within earshot, +announced at the top of his voice that luncheon +would be served on certain flat rocks. This had the +immediate effect of uniting our scattered forces. The +first to arrive (the moralist was slow of foot) were +some gallant members of the high mountaineering +fraternity, who throughout the day evinced astounding +activity, and an unwonted desire to carry burdens +on their backs. Secretly they were burning with an +ambition to display their prowess on some <span class="tei tei-q">“mauvais +pas,”</span> or glissade, an ambition rewarded later on in a +somewhat remarkable manner. The rock was spread, +the moralist selected a comfortable place, and, +stimu<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page275">[pg 275]</span><a name="Pg275" id="Pg275" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>lated by the appearance of the viands, favoured us +with certain extracts. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A discourse on gourmets</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +<span class="tei tei-q">“There are many,”</span> he observed, holding a large +piece of pie to his mouth and eyeing it to select an +appropriate place for the next bite, <span class="tei tei-q">“who hold that +the sense of taste is not one to which we should much +minister. I do not hold with such;”</span> and here he +found the right spot, and for a minute or two the +thread of his discourse was broken off. <span class="tei tei-q">“The painter +blends colours to please the sense of sight; the +musician studies harmonies of sound to please the +ear; each appeals to but one of our imperfect senses, +and yet we think much of them for so doing; we +compliment them, and give them the appellation of +artists. Now the worthy person who dexterously +compounded this article, of which, alas! I hold now +but little in my hand, appeals not to a single but to +a twofold sense; he ministers alike to taste and to +smell, and I must own, after a toilsome walk, with +commendable results. He is an artist in the highest +sense of the word; his merits, to my thinking, are +but inadequately recognised in this world. I am convinced +that they will be more so in another. The +gourmet’s paradise shall provide for him a cherubic +state of existence; then shall he have all the pleasure +that the palate can afford without any ill-omened +presage of subsequent discomfort; for, thrice happy +that he will be, digestion will be an anatomical +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page276">[pg 276]</span><a name="Pg276" id="Pg276" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>impossibility.”</span> It may be remarked parenthetically +that the possession of a gigantic brain had not +obviated, in the case of the moralist, the deleterious +effects of sour wine. But the moralist was not, as yet, +much of a cherub. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +As the speaker showed unmistakable signs of +continuing his discourse, which had been chiefly +directed at a youth of whom we only knew that he +was some one’s brother, if the opportunity were +afforded, a sudden and general move was made, and +the proposal that a short adjournment should take +place previous to resuming our upward journey found +instant favour. The chief organiser was by common +consent left to pack up. Straightway the ladies all +produced little sketch-books, and fell very vigorously +to recording their impressions of the scenery around; +whilst the moralist, already somewhat stiff, wandered +from one group to the other and favoured them with +his suggestions. The result of half an hour’s work +with pencil and brush was to produce diagrams of +certain objects which looked uncommonly like telegraph +poles with cross bars attached, but which were +coloured of a vivid green, and were thus obviously +intended for fir trees. The moralist, not finding that +his remarks were met with much favour by the artists, +selected an ascetic who sat apart from the others, and +delivered his next discourse into his inattentive but +uncomplaining ear. +</p> + +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page277">[pg 277]</span><a name="Pg277" id="Pg277" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">An artistic interlude</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +<span class="tei tei-q">“It seems strange to me,”</span> he remarked, <span class="tei tei-q">“that those +who are wholly unable to depict, even in the most +elementary manner, the commonplace objects around +them, are for ever seen in the Alps striving after the +most impossible art problems. If so great a stimulus +is needed, a poor result may be confidently anticipated.”</span> +(Here the moralist made a fourth attempt to +light a very curious native cigar.) <span class="tei tei-q">“If it takes the +sight of Nature in her sublimest phase, as seen in the +Alps, to stimulate our friends here to show their art, +why, then they haven’t much of it. A milestone +should be sufficient for the purpose, but it seems that +they require a Matterhorn; and it may be gathered, +from what I have heard you and your companions +say, that what is true of Alpine art is true also of +Alpine climbing, and that the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">dilettanti</span></span> will never take +the trouble to learn how much there is to learn. Our +friends here try to paint a glacier, and have not the +most elementary idea of its anatomy. They represent +vast panoramas, and know nothing of distance; +they——”</span> But here the moralist, in the excitement of +his discourse, turned a little white, probably from the +depth of his feelings; and, throwing away his cigar, +walked off alone, and was discovered shortly after +perspiring a good deal, and crumpled up in a somewhat +limp and helpless state. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +The books were packed up, for the sun was setting +low, and the party wended their way up the steep +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page278">[pg 278]</span><a name="Pg278" id="Pg278" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>grass slope till the first great dome of the Mont Buet +came well into sight. Far ahead was the niece, +seemingly unconscious of the effects that the exertion +of climbing told on her slight frame. She was apparently +unaware of any companions around, though +watchful eyes and strong hands were always near lest +any mischance should befall. She spoke to no one. +Nature absorbed all her faculties as she went on with +cheeks rather flushed, and bright, dilated eyes drinking +in every object and every point of beauty. As an +artist in the exercise of his craft makes the outside +world acquainted with beauties ever present to his +eyes, so did the effect on her of the wondrous lights +and shades and colours around call up new thoughts +and reveal fresh marvels in the panorama to others, +though well acquainted with such Alpine scenes. +The spell caught one after another, till the whole +party, all held by the same unsuspected fascination, +walked silently on, while the majestic splendour +around inspired an awe in the mind that even those +most familiar with the marvels of nature in the +mountains had never felt before. The mere recognition +of the fact that the same thought or emotion +is passing simultaneously through the minds of many +is in itself so striking, that the impression so caused +will not ever be effaced from the mind. A crowded +hall is waiting for the advent of the orator of the +occasion, and there enters an old man whose name +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page279">[pg 279]</span><a name="Pg279" id="Pg279" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>and work were familiar to all. Instantly, and as if +by magic, all present rose to their feet in token of +respect. No word was spoken, no signal given. The +matter may seem slight, but the scene was one that +those present will never forget. The most hideous +part of the punishment in the old days to the criminal +must have been the moment when, as he stepped +through the last door, the sea of faces below him +upturned simultaneously with a howl of execration. +And all these thoughts were called up by the fact that +one consumptive girl was a member of our mountain +party. Well, such was the case, and it made the +expedition different in many ways from any that we +had ever undertaken, but not perhaps the less worthy +of remembrance. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">We become thoughtful</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +<span class="tei tei-q">“It looks a long way off,”</span> observed the moralist, +gazing despondently upwards. <span class="tei tei-q">“Do you say that the +object of our expedition is to climb up to that eminence +yonder? I fear lest some of the weaker +members of the party should fail.”</span> (The moralist was +now the penultimate member of the party, the absolute +rear being brought up by one of the guides, who was +pushing him up with the head of his axe. The youth +to whom he was in the habit of addressing his +discourses had in a revengeful mood offered similar +assistance; but the youth wore such a saturnine look +when he made the suggestion, that it was declined +hastily with thanks.) <span class="tei tei-q">“I think that if I took a little +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page280">[pg 280]</span><a name="Pg280" id="Pg280" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>wine”</span>—here he took all that was left—<span class="tei tei-q">“this feeling of +disinclination to move might conceivably pass off, and +I could then encourage some of the others on what is +clearly to them an arduous expedition. Ah me! but +these little stones are excessively sharp to the feet; +let us turn off on to the snow. I have heard that it is +possible to walk uphill on such a medium, and yet +scarce recognise the fact.”</span> By this time most of the +party were well on to the first summit, and the glories +of the sunset, from a point of view which it would be +hard to match in all the mountains, were beginning to +display themselves to the full. The higher we ascended +the more did the eternal mass of white snow on the +other side of the valley develop and tower above us. +Two or three of the more active members were +floundering in the deep snow along the ridge uniting +the two summits, and finding it, if the truth be told, +no small matter to keep pace with the niece, who +skimmed lightly over the surface. Gallantry and the +desire to keep up their reputation forbade that they +should fall to the rear, or allow the rope to tighten +unduly; but their superior mountaineering experience +seemed not a little in danger of being counterbalanced +by their superior weight. All over the rocks on the +Sixt side a thin grey veil of mist seemed to hang, +making the cliffs appear still more vertical than nature +had moulded them, and tinting the crags at the same +time with a deep purple colour. +</p><a name="fig282" id="fig282" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p><div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/illo_180.jpg" alt="A vision on a summit" title="A VISION ON A SUMMIT" /><div class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em">A VISION ON A SUMMIT</div></div> +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page281">[pg 281]</span><a name="Pg281" id="Pg281" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A vision on the summit</span></div></div> +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +In the foreground, looking south, the long jagged +line of the Aiguilles Rouges cut off the view into the +Chamouni valley, and threw up still higher and more +into relief the minor peaks of the Mont Blanc chain. +We huddled together on the summit, while there +seemed hardly time to turn to all points of the +compass to survey the effects. The emotional members +of the party came out strong, and the young +lady of varied accomplishments, who was adjudged by +the others to be of poetic temperament, as she was +fond of alluding rather vaguely to unknown Italian +geniuses, burst forth into ecstasies. However, one or +two of us had rather lost faith in her historical knowledge +and her profound acquaintance with mediæval +art on hearing her discourse learnedly to the vacuous +youth on Savonarola as an artist of great repute, and +on discovering that in the family circle she was held +in submission by an Italianised English governess—discreetly +left at the hotel. A formidable person, +this preceptress, of austere demeanour, with a dyspeptic +habit, highly pomatumed ringlets, and evangelistic +tendencies—a triple combination not infrequently +met with. Still, no one paid any attention to +the accomplished young lady, for an object in the foreground +of the great picture riveted the gaze of most +of us. The niece had advanced a few steps from the +rest of the party, and stood a little apart on the +summit ridge of the mountain, her slight form +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page282">[pg 282]</span><a name="Pg282" id="Pg282" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>brought out in strong relief against the many-tinted +sky. The folds of her dress fluttered back in the +light breeze, and the night wind as it came sighing +over the crest had loosened her veil and tossed it +upwards. Mechanically as she raised her hand to +draw it back, the thin arm and hand seemed to point +upwards to something beyond what we could see. +Instinctively the others all drew back a few paces, and +closed in together as they watched the motionless +form. The sunset glories were more than we could +realise, but somehow we felt that she was gazing with +fixed eyes far, far beyond these—into a pure and +passionless region, beyond the mental grasp of the +profoundest theologian depending on his own acquired +knowledge. As we looked, though she moved no +limb, her breath came faster and faster. One or two +of us made a start forwards, but at that moment the +last red glow vanished from the belt of fleecy cloud +hanging in mid-sky. Lower down, the limestone +cliffs seemed strangely desolate as the icy hand of +night spread over them. The breeze suddenly +dropped and died away. She stamped her foot on +the snow, and with a quick movement of the head +seemed to come back again to the scene around. +<span class="tei tei-q">“Let us go,”</span> she said, half petulantly. Silently the +party arranged themselves in order as we wended our +way back along the ridge. We had seen a sight that +lingered in the mind, and that was not easily to be +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page283">[pg 283]</span><a name="Pg283" id="Pg283" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>erased from the memory. As we walked along +we gradually drew closer and closer together, prompted +by some feeling that all seemed to share alike—as if +the recollection of what we had just seen had dazed +the mind, and brought us face to face with some +influence beyond our ordinary thoughts, and as if +with nearer union we should not feel so powerless and +insignificant. But the glories of that sunset from the +Mont Buet, a scene within the reach of all of very +moderate walking ability, were far beyond the power +of any language to describe, and beyond the province +of any discreet writer to attempt. The twilight +gathered in fast, and the snow already felt more crisp +under foot. The roll-call was held, and it was discovered +that the only absentees were the moralist and +his propelling companion. At this point two of the +skilled mountaineers of the party recognised their +opportunity, and were not slow to seize it. Secretly +they had felt that no suitable occasion had hitherto +offered of displaying their prowess, so they volunteered +to perform a glissade for the amusement and +instruction of the others. The ladies clapped their +hands gleefully, and the youth, who did not know +how to glissade, looked sinister. Accordingly the +skilful ones made their way to a steep snow slope, and +started off with great speed and dexterity, amidst the +admiring plaudits of the less acrobatically minded +members. But the course of their true descent did +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page284">[pg 284]</span><a name="Pg284" id="Pg284" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>not run entirely smooth, for before half the downward +journey was accomplished the foremost member was +observed suddenly to propel himself wildly into the +air, performing a remarkable antic—similar to those +known of street Arabs as cart-wheels—and the remainder +of the journey to the foot of the slope was +performed with about the grace of a floating log +descending a mountain torrent. Nor was this all; +the rearmost man, apparently also possessed by an +identical frenzy, leaped forth into the air at precisely +the same spot and in precisely the same manner. +Had it not been that they were known to be highly +skilful and adroit mountaineers the impression might +have gained ground that the circumstances of this +part of the descent were not wholly under their own +control. Ever anxious to investigate the true cause +of strange occurrences, to their credit be it said that +when they had collected their wits and emptied their +pockets of snow, they mounted up again to the scene +of the disaster, and discovered the explanation in an +entirely imaginary stone, which had, beyond doubt, +tripped them up. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The mountaineers perform</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Somewhat crestfallen, the energetic pair rejoined +the rest of the troupe and a search was instituted for +the moralist. This worthy was discovered, astonishingly +weary of body but surprisingly active of mind, +wedged in a narrow rocky niche, so that he looked +like the figure of a little <span class="tei tei-q">“Joss”</span> in the carved model +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page285">[pg 285]</span><a name="Pg285" id="Pg285" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>of a Japanese temple. It was found necessary to pull +him vigorously by the legs, in order to straighten out +those members sufficiently for him to progress upon +them. However, he seemed to have more to say +about the sunset than anybody else, and his description +of the beauties thereof was so glowing and eloquent, +that the idea crossed our minds that possibly +some of the descriptions we had read in Alpine +writings of similar scenes might be as authentic as +that with which he favoured us. <span class="tei tei-q">“A great point in +the Alps,”</span> remarked the moralist, after he had been +securely fastened by a rope to a guide for fear we +should lose him again, so that he looked like a +dancing bear—<span class="tei tei-q">“a great point in walking amongst the +Alps is that we learn to use our eyes and look around +us. I have observed that those who perambulate our +native flagstones appear perpetually to be absorbed in +the contemplation of what lies at their feet. Now +here, stimulated by the beauties around, man holds, +as he should do, his head erect, and steps out boldly.”</span> +At this point a little delay was occasioned owing to +the abrupt disappearance of the speaker through a +crust of snow. Some curious rumblings below our +feet seemed to imply that he had descended to a considerable +depth, and was in great personal discomfort. +In the dim light we could scarcely see what had +actually happened, but concluded to pull vigorously at +the rope as the best means of getting our temporarily +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page286">[pg 286]</span><a name="Pg286" id="Pg286" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>absent friend out of his difficulties. This we succeeded +in doing, and a strenuous haul on the cord +was rewarded by the sudden appearance of two boots +through the snow-crust at our feet—a phenomenon so +unexpected that we relaxed our efforts, with the result +that the boots immediately disappeared again. A +second attempt was more successful; an arm and a +leg this time came to the surface simultaneously, and +the moralist was delivered from the snowy recesses +broadside on. We rearranged his raiment, shook the +snow out of the creases of his clothes, tied a bath +towel round his head, which, for some obscure reason, +he had brought with him—the towel, not his head—and +harnessed him this time securely between two +members of the party. Possibly from the effects of +his misadventure, he remained silent for some time, +or his flow of conversation may have been hindered +by the fact that his supporters ran him violently down +steep places whenever he showed symptoms of commencing +a fresh dissertation. It was no easy task to +find the little hut in the darkness, and it was not +until after we had blundered about a good deal that +we caught sight of the beacon light, consisting of a +very cheap dip exhibited in the window, as a sign that +entertainment for man and beast might be found +within. The moralist, who was always to the fore +when the subject of refreshment was mentioned, discovered +a milking-stool, and drawing it in great +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page287">[pg 287]</span><a name="Pg287" id="Pg287" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>triumph to the best place in front of the stove, sat +down on it, with the immediate result that he was +precipitated backwards into the ash-pan. There we +left him, as being a suitable place for repentance. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A banquet at the chalet</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +The rest of the party gathered for supper round +the festive board, which was rather uncertain on its +legs, and inclined to tip up. Owing to some miscarriage, +the larder of the cabane was not well stocked, +and all the entertainment that could be furnished +consisted of one bent-up little sausage, exceeding +black and dry, and a very large teapot. However, +there was plenty of fresh milk provided after a short +interval, though the latter article was not obtained +without considerable difficulty, and remonstrances +proceeding from an adjoining shed, probably due to +somnolence on the part of the animal from which the +supply was drawn. Presently a great commotion, as +of numerous bodies rolling down a steep ladder, was +heard, and there appeared at the door a large collection +of small shock-headed children, who gaped at +us in silent wonder. Anxious to ascertain the physical +effects that might be induced by the consumption +of the sausage, the moralist, who amongst his +many talents had apparently a turn for experimental +physiology, cut off a block and placed it in the open +mouth of the eldest of the children. This unexpected +favour led to the boy’s swallowing the morsel whole, +and he shortly afterwards retired with a somewhat +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page288">[pg 288]</span><a name="Pg288" id="Pg288" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>pained expression of countenance; the other members +of the family followed shortly after in tears, in consequence +of the Italianised young lady, who possessed +a strong fund of human sympathy and a love +for the picturesque, having made an attempt to conciliate +their good-will by patting their respective heads, +and asking them their names in a conjectural <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">patois</span></span>. +We were now ready to start again, and demanded +of our hostess what there was to pay. This request +led her to go to the foot of the ladder, which represented +a staircase, and call out for the proprietor. A +little black-headed man in response instantly precipitated +himself down the steps, shot into the apartment, +and, without any preliminary calculation, named the +exact price. On receiving his money he scuttled away +again like a frightened rabbit, brought the change, +jerked it down on the table, and darted off again to +his slumbers. The whole transaction occupied some +five-and-twenty seconds. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Part of the programme consisted in descending +back to Argentière by lantern-light, but the resources +of the establishment could only produce one battered +machine, and it was no easy task with this illumination +to keep the members of the party from straying +away from the narrow path. Indeed, several members +did part from the rest, curiously enough in pairs; +but before long we left the narrow defile, and as we +passed from under the shelter of the slope on our +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page289">[pg 289]</span><a name="Pg289" id="Pg289" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>right, and could see across the Chamouni valley, we +came suddenly in view of the great mass of the +Aiguille Verte, so suddenly, indeed, that it made us +start back for the moment; for, illumined by a grey +ghostly light, the mountain seemed at first to hang right +over us. There is, perhaps, no finer view of the Aiguille +Verte to be obtained than from this point; certainly +no finer effects of light and shade than were granted +by the conditions under which we saw it, could have +been devised to show the peak off to the best advantage. +So long did we delay to dwell on the fairy-like +scene, that the vacuous youth, accompanied by the +young lady of varied accomplishments, caught us up +and joined us quite suddenly, to their exceeding confusion. +The youth, without being invited to do so, +explained, blushing violently the while, that they had +lost the path in the darkness, and had only been able +to regain the track by lighting a series of lucifer +matches—an entire fiction on his part, but condoned, +as evincing more readiness of wit than we had previously +given him credit for. We heard also that their +way had been barred by a swamp and a mountain +stream, which, like gossip, can have had no particular +origin. The young lady, mindful of the absence of +her preceptress and consequently heedless of grammar, +described the situation neatly as being <span class="tei tei-q">“awfully bogs.”</span> +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The end of the journey</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +If the expedition had shown us no more than this +moonlight effect, the reward would have been ample. +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page290">[pg 290]</span><a name="Pg290" id="Pg290" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>In truth, from first to last the expedition was one +which it would be hard to match for variety of interest +in all the sub-Alpine district. At Argentière we rejoined +the carriages, and found the horses just a +little more inclined for exertion than they had been in +the morning; their joy at going home seemed to be +tempered by the fact that they recognised that they +would inevitably be called upon to start from the +same point at no very distant period; and that to +return home was but to go back to the starting-point +for further laborious excursions. But their equine +tempers seemed thoroughly soured. The Italianised +young lady was taken in charge by her elder +sister, who had completed her education, and knew +consequently the hollowness of the world and the +folly of younger sisters’ flirtations, and securely +lodged in the landau. The youth, after an ineffectual +attempt to find a place in the same carriage, climbed +to the box seat of the other vehicle, and relieved his +feelings by cracking the driver’s whip with great +dexterity; in fact, we discovered that this was one of +his principal accomplishments. Not the least satisfactory +part of the climb, in the estimation of some +members of the party, was the fact that the moralist +had lost his note-book during his imprisonment in the +crevasse. +</p> + +</div><hr class="page" /><div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page291">[pg 291]</span><a name="Pg291" id="Pg291" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> +<a name="toc25" id="toc25"></a> + <a name="pdf26" id="pdf26"></a> +<h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"><span style="font-size: 173%">CHAPTER IX.</span></h1> + +<h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"><span style="font-size: 144%">A FRAGMENT</span></h1> + +<div class="tei tei-argument" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em"><p class="tei tei-p" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 0.90em"><span style="font-size: 90%"> +An unauthentic MS.—Solitude on the mountain: its advantages to +the historian of the Alps—A rope walk—The crossing of the +Schrund—A novel form of avalanche and an airy situation—A +towering obstacle—The issue of the expedition in the balance—A +very narrow escape—The final rush—Victory!—The perils of +the descent—I plunge </span><span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-style: italic">in medias res</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">—A flying descent. +</span></p></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +The following account is somewhat of a puzzle. It +appears to contain certain facts of so startling a +nature, that the ascent to which they refer must unquestionably +have been of a very exciting character. +The details are not so wholly unlike descriptions +which have passed the searching discrimination of +editors, in publications relating more or less to Alpine +matters, as to warrant the assumption that they are +fabrications. They do not appear, as far as the writer +can ascertain, to have been seen in print hitherto; +but as all Alpine writings relate but rigid matters of +fact and actual occurrences, there seems no objection +to publishing the manuscript, notwithstanding that its +authorship is only conjectural. It is unfortunate that +its fragmentary nature leaves one somewhat in doubt +as to the actual peak to which the description refers. +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page292">[pg 292]</span><a name="Pg292" id="Pg292" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>It has been suggested by a plausible commentator, +judging from internal evidence and the style of +writing, that the manuscript of which the fragment +consists formed part of an account originally intended +for some work not published in this country, or even, +possibly, was primarily designed to fill the columns of +one of our own daily newspapers during the silly +season. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">I rise equal to the occasion</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +<span class="tei tei-q">“... The day was cloudless, serene, and bright. +Only in the immediate foreground did the heavy +banks, betokening a <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">tourmente</span></span>, sweep around with +relentless fury. Far above, the towering crags of the +majestic peak pierced the sky. How to get there! +And alone! The situation was sublime; yet more, it +was fascinating; once again, it was enthralling. Far +below lay the prostrate bodies of my companions, +worn out, wearied, gorged with <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">petit vin</span></span> and sardines. +A thought flashed across my mind. Why should I +not scale alone these heights which had hitherto +defied the most consummate <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">intrépides</span></span>? In a +moment the resolution was taken. For me, for me +alone, should the laurel wreaths be twined. For me +should the booming cannon, charged with fifty +centimes’ worth of uncertain powder, betoken victory. +For me alone should the assortment of cheap flags +which had done duty on many previous occasions of +rejoicing, be dragged forth. What was the expense +to a hero when the glow of so magnificent an +achieve<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page293">[pg 293]</span><a name="Pg293" id="Pg293" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>ment should swell his heart and loosen his purse-strings? +The account might reach a sum of two and a +half, nay, even five francs; but what of that? I girded +myself with the trusty rope, and, attaching one end +lightly to a projecting crag twenty feet above, hauled +myself in a moment on to the eminence. Involuntarily +I shot a glance downwards. The scene +was fearful—one to make the most resolute +quail. But there was no time for thought, still +less for accurate description. A fearfully steep +couloir, flanked by two yawning bergschrunds, +stretched away horizontally right and left. How to +cross them! It was the work of a moment. Unfastening +the knot in the rope above me, I threw +myself, heart and soul, into the work. Where heart +and soul are, there must, in the ante-mortem state, be +the body also. This is logic. Thus I entered the +chasm. Battling desperately with the huge icicles +that threatened me at every step, I forced my way +through the snow bridge and breathed again. The +first schrund was accomplished. Next the rope was +fastened to my trusty axe, and with an herculean +effort I threw it far above me; fortunately it caught +in a notch, and in a few seconds I had climbed, with +the agility of a monkey, up the tightened cord. +Goodness gracious! (<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">sapristi!</span></span>) what do I hear? A +sudden roar below betokened an immediate danger. +Horror! sweeping and roaring up the slope from the +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page294">[pg 294]</span><a name="Pg294" id="Pg294" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>glacier beneath, I beheld a huge avalanche. I will +conceal nothing. I own that the appalling situation +and its terribly dramatic nature forced me to ejaculate +a cry. I do not claim originality for it. I said, <span class="tei tei-q">‘Oh! +my mother!’</span> (<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Oh! ma mère!</span></span>) This relieved me. +Now was the time indeed for coolness. Fortunate, +most fortunate, that I was alone. Thrusting the +spike of the axe into the solid rock face like the spear +of Ithuriel, in the twinkling of an eye I had fastened +one end of the rope to the projecting head of the axe, +and the other to my waist, and launched myself over +the ridge into space. Fortunate, most fortunate +again, as in the hurry of the moment I had attached +the rope below my own centre of gravity, that I was +light-headed. Had this not been the case, assuredly +I should have dangled feet uppermost over the abyss. +Not a moment too soon. The avalanche dashed up the +slope, grinding the axe to powder, but by good luck +entangling the rope between the massive blocks and +carrying it up, with myself attached, nearly 100 +metres—I should say 300 feet—above where I had +previously stood. I had accomplished in a moment +what might have cost hours of toil. Again it was +sublime. The thought crossed my mind that the +sublime often approaches the ridiculous. But the +rocks, previously broken up, had been ground by the +sweeping avalanche into a surface smooth as polished +steel. How to descend these again! Banish the +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page295">[pg 295]</span><a name="Pg295" id="Pg295" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>thought! The mountain was not yet climbed. +Upwards, past yawning séracs, towering bergschrunds, +slippery crevasses, gaping arêtes, I made my way. +For a few hundred feet I bounded upwards with great +rapidity. Despite the rugged nature of the rocks +everything went smoothly. Of a sudden a terrible +obstacle was presented to my gaze. I felt that all +my hopes seemingly were dashed. A stupendous +cleft, riving the mountain’s side to an unfathomable +depth, barred further progress. From top to +bottom both sides of the chasm overhung; and far +below, where they joined, the angle of meeting was +so sharp that I felt that I must infallibly be +wedged in without hope of extrication if I fell. +For a few moments I hesitated, but only for a few. +Close by was a tower of rock, smooth and vertical, +some twelve feet high—the height of two men, in fact. +No handhold save on the top. This was but a simple +matter. Had any one else been with me, I should +have stood on his shoulders; as it was I stood on my +own head. Thus I climbed to the summit of the +pointed obelisk of rock. Exactly opposite, on the +farther side of the cleft, was a similar rock cone, but +the distance was too great to spring across. I was in +a dilemma—on one horn of it, in fact; how to get +to the other! I adopted an ingenious plan. Taking +my trusty axe, I placed the pointed end in a little +notch in the rock, and then, with herculean strength, +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page296">[pg 296]</span><a name="Pg296" id="Pg296" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>bent the staff and wedged the head also into a notch. +The trusty axe was now bent like a bow. Again I +hesitated before trusting myself to the bow; in fact, +it was long before I drew it. But a former experience +stood me in good stead. Once before, driven by a +less powerful impetus—merely that of a human leg—I +had flown through a greater distance. I made up +my mind, and, summoning all my fortitude, placed +my back against the arc and, lightly touching one +end, released the spring. Instantly I felt myself +propelled straight into mid-air, and before I had time +to realise the success of my scheme, was flung against +the pinnacle on the opposite side and embraced it. +What were my feelings on finding that this huge +pinnacle had no more stability than a ninepin, and +as my weight came on to it slowly heeled over! Nor +was this all. Slowly, like the pendulum of a metronome, +it rolled back again, and I found to my horror +that I was clinging to the apex of the rock, and +dangling right over the chasm! I cannot recall that +in all my adventures I had ever been in a precisely +similar situation. However, a hasty calculation satisfied +me that the rocking crag must again right itself. +As I expected, it did so, and as the pinnacle of rock +swung back once more to the perpendicular I sprang +from it with all my force. The impetus landed me safe, +but the crag toppled over into the abyss. Here I noted +an interesting scientific fact. Taking out my watch, +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page297">[pg 297]</span><a name="Pg297" id="Pg297" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>I was able to estimate, by the depth of the cleft, the +height I had already climbed. <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">The boulder took a +minute and a half in falling before it reached anywhere.</span></span> +I own that the escape was a narrow one, and even my +unblushing cheek paled a little at the thought of it. +But I could not be far now, I hoped, from the summit; +and, indeed, the condition of a dead bird which it so +happened lay on the rocks—in a passive sense—convinced +me that the summit of the lofty peak was +close at hand. But few obstacles now remained. +Another step or two revealed a glassy unbroken rock +cone leading to the summit. It seemed impossible at +first to surmount it, but my resources were not yet at +an end. Dragging off my boots, I tore out with my +teeth the long nails and drove them in one after +another. By this means I ascended the first half of +the final peak; but then the supply of nails was +exhausted, and I felt that time would not permit me +to draw out the lower nails and place them in succession +above the others. Luckily I still carried with +me a flask of the execrable <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">petit vin</span></span> supplied by Mons. +—— of the inn below. I applied a little to the rock. +The effect was magical. In a moment the hard face +was softened to the consistence of cheese, and with +my trusty axe I had no difficulty in scraping out +small steps. The worst was now over. Just as the +shades of night were gathering softly around, I +stepped with the proud consciousness of victory on to +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page298">[pg 298]</span><a name="Pg298" id="Pg298" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the very highest point. This indeed was sublime. +The toil of years was accomplished; it seemed almost +a dream. Nerved to frenzy, with a mighty sweep of +the axe I struck off a huge block from the summit to +carry away as a token of conquest, and planting the +weapon in the hole, tore off garment after garment to +make a suitable flag; only did I desist on reflecting +that it would become barely possible for me to descend +if I acted thus. Intoxicated with victory, I shouted +and sang for a while, and then turned to the descent. +The night was fast closing in, but this mattered not, +for I made light of all the obstacles, and they were so +numerous that I succeeded perfectly by this means in +seeing my way. Faster and faster I sped along, +descending with ease over the blocks and fragments of +the morning’s avalanche. Now and again the descent +was assisted by fastening the rope securely to projecting +crags, and then allowing myself to slide down to +its full length. Then I went up again, untied the rope, +fastened it anew below, and repeated the manœuvre. +Thus at midnight I reached the edge of the cliff, at +the foot of which my companions had been left in the +morning. I feared they might be anxious for my +safety, the more especially that I had not yet paid +them for their services. Peering over the edge of the +vertical precipice into the murky darkness, I called +out. There was no response. Then I said <span class="tei tei-q">‘Pst,’</span> and +tapped the glassy slope with my pocket knife. Even +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page299">[pg 299]</span><a name="Pg299" id="Pg299" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>this plan failed to attract their attention. I shouted +with still more force. Finally, standing up on the +edge of the cliff, I sent forth a shout so terribly loud +that it must have waked even a sleeping adder. A +fatal error! for the reverberation of my voice was +echoed back with such fearful force from a neighbouring +crag that the shock struck me backwards, and in +a moment I was flying through mid-air—to annihilation.”</span> +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-tb">* * * * * * </div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +<span class="tei tei-q">“There is a blank in this narrative which I can +never fill up. This only do I know; that when I +came again to my senses, I was warmly ensconced in +a blanket, whilst my companions stood around in a +circle shivering, as they gazed at me with amazement. +Their account, which I can scarcely credit, was that +as they were engaged in stretching out and shaking a +blanket preparatory to spreading their bed for the +night, an apparently heaven-sent form had descended +from above into the very middle of it; the shock tore +the blanket from their grasp, and in a twinkling I lay +wrapt up safe and comfortable at their feet.”</span> +</p> +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">A highly coloured account</span></div></div> +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Such is the fragment. It has been thought better +to present it as far as possible in its original form, +and without any editing. That the account is a little +highly coloured perhaps in parts may be allowed, but +some licence may legitimately be accorded to an +author who is no empty dreamer, but has evidently +experienced some rather exciting episodes. +</p> + +</div><hr class="page" /><div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page300">[pg 300]</span><a name="Pg300" id="Pg300" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> +<a name="toc27" id="toc27"></a> + <a name="pdf28" id="pdf28"></a> +<h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"><span style="font-size: 173%">CHAPTER X.</span></h1> + +<h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"><span style="font-size: 144%">THE FUTURE OF MOUNTAINEERING</span></h1> + +<div class="tei tei-argument" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em"><p class="tei tei-p" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 0.90em"><span style="font-size: 90%"> +Mountaineers and their critics—The early days of the Alpine Club—The +founders of mountaineering—The growth of the amusement—Novelty +and exploration—The formation of centres—Narrowing +of the field of mountaineering—The upward limit of +mountaineering—De Saussure’s experience—Modern development +of climbing—Mr. Whymper’s experience—Mr. Graham’s +experience—The ascent of great heights—Mr. Grove’s views—Messrs. +Coxwell and Glaisher’s balloon experiences—Reasons +for dissenting from Mr. Glaisher’s views—The possibility of +ascending Mount Everest—Physiological aspect of the question—Acclimatisation +to great heights—The direction in which +mountaineering should be developed—The results that may be +obtained—Chamouni a century hence—A Rip van Winkle in +the Pennine Alps—The dangers of mountaineering—Conclusion. +</span></p></div> +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The critics</span></div></div> +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +From time to time, when some accident has happened +in the Alps, the press and the public have been +pleased to take such unfortunate occurrence as a text, +and to preach serious sermons to mountaineers. We +have been called hard names in our time; we have +been accused of fostering an amusement of no earthly-practical +good, and one which has led to <span class="tei tei-q">“miserable”</span> +waste of valuable life. Gentle expressions of animadversion, +such as <span class="tei tei-q">“criminal folly,”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“reckless venture, +which has no better purpose than the gratification +of a caprice or the indulgence of a small ambition,”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“a +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page301">[pg 301]</span><a name="Pg301" id="Pg301" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>subject of humiliating interest,”</span> and the like, have +at times been freely used. But it is well known to +authors and to dramatists that criticisms of a nature +known as <span class="tei tei-q">“smashing”</span> are not, on the whole, always +to be deplored, and are occasionally the best to enhance +the success of the work. The novel or play, however +unreservedly condemned by the reviewer, has got +some chance of living if it be hinted that some of the +situations in it are a little <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">risquées</span></span>; and to a great +many the idea seems constantly present that mountaineering +owes its principal attraction to the element +of risk inseparable from its pursuit. As an +absolute matter of fact such is not the case. Apart +from this, however, mountaineers may be thankful +that the critics in question have, when they noticed +our doings at all, condemned us very heartily indeed, +and thundered forth their own strictures on +our folly in sonorous terms; in fact, attacks of this +nature have by no means impaired the vitality of +such associations as Alpine clubs, but rather, like +attacks of distemper in dogs, have increased their +value. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +It would be easy enough, from the mountaineer’s +point of view, and in a work which, at +the best, can interest only those who have some +sympathy with climbing as a pure pastime, to pass +over these hard words, and to reckon them as merely +the vapourings of envious mortals not initiated into +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page302">[pg 302]</span><a name="Pg302" id="Pg302" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the mysteries of the mountaineering craft; but such +criticisms may lead or perhaps reflect public opinion, +and are not, therefore, to be treated lightly. It might +be held that for any notice to be taken at all is complimentary, +and we might seek shelter in the epigrammatic +saying that he who has no enemies has no +character; that though hope may spring eternal in +the human breast, jealousy is a trait still more constantly +found. But this line of argument is not one +to be adopted. The <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">tu quoque</span></span> style of defence is not +one well calculated to gain a verdict. No doubt the +question has been treated often enough before, and +in discussing it the writer may seem but to be doing +what nowadays the climber is forced to do in the Alps—namely, +wander again, perhaps ramble, over ground +that has been well trodden many times before. But the +conditions have changed greatly since mountaineering +first became a popular pastime, and since the first editions +of <span class="tei tei-q">“Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers”</span> were rapidly sold +out. It is, the writer fears, only too true in these +latter days that mountaineers may be classified as Past +and Present. Whether a third class may be added of +<span class="tei tei-q">“the Future”</span> is a question—to be answered, I hope, +in the affirmative. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Growth of the amusement</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +The Alpine Club was founded in 1857 by a few +ardent devotees to what was then an entirely new +form of pastime. The original members of that +club could never have even dreamed of the wide +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page303">[pg 303]</span><a name="Pg303" id="Pg303" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>popularity mountaineering was destined to acquire, +or the influence that the establishment of the Alpine +Club was to have on it; and, like the fish in an +aquarium, they can hardly have known what they +were in for. In the present day there are Alpine +clubs in almost every country in Europe, and in some +countries there are several, numbering their members +in some cases by thousands. Nor is it only on the +continent of Europe that there are mountaineering +clubs. Not that the writer ventures to assert that +every member of this multitude is devoted to the high +Alps, or that it is in the least degree essential to +climb high and difficult mountains in order to learn +the fascination of their natural beauties. It may be +pointed out, however, that the <span class="tei tei-q">“miserable waste of +valuable life”</span> is in the greatest part not on the great +peaks and passes, but on little hills. Every year we +read of accidents on mountains such as the Faulhorn, +the Monte Salvatore in the Alps, or Snowdon, Helvellyn +and the like in our own country. Possibly these +disasters might never have taken place had the experience +of mountaineering craft gained in high +regions been properly appreciated and utilised. The +good surgeon is he who, utilising all his own and all +his predecessors’ experience, recognises, and makes +provision against, all the risks that may conceivably +be involved in the most trifling operation he may be +called upon to perform; and holiday ramblers in our +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page304">[pg 304]</span><a name="Pg304" id="Pg304" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>own land and in sub-Alpine regions might, not without +advantage, profit by the example. +</p> +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Novelty and exploration</span></div></div> +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Five-and-twenty years ago in Switzerland there +were numberless heights untrodden, passes uncrossed, +and regions unexplored. Then, moreover, there were +comparatively but few to cross the passes or climb +the mountains; but those few did mighty deeds. +Peak after peak fell before them, while slowly but +surely they opened up new regions and brought unexpected +beauties to light. In those days climbing +as an art was but in its infancy, restricted to a few +amateurs specially qualified to pursue it, and to a very +limited number of guides—merely those, in fact (not +such a numerous class as people seem generally to +imagine), who had made chamois-hunting one of the +principal objects of their lives. Gradually the art +became more developed, and with the increase of +power thus acquired came increase of confidence. From +the fact that the training in the mountaineering art +was gradual, it was necessarily thorough—a fact that +a good many climbers would do well to bear in mind +in these latter days. Then, of course, the charm of +novelty, so dear to the mountaineer, was seldom +absent; he could strike out right or left and find +virgin soil; but in quest of novelty search had to be +made before long in remote regions. It followed +that exploration was not limited, and the early +pioneers of mountaineering could, and did learn more +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page305">[pg 305]</span><a name="Pg305" id="Pg305" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>of the geography and varied beauties of the Alps in +a single season than their followers do, in the present +day, in five or six. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +After a while the fashion of mountaineering altered +sensibly, and a strong conservatism sprang up. +Certain districts became more and more frequented; +certain peaks acquired special popularity, either because +they were conveniently placed and ready of +access; or because there was a certain touch of +romance about them, as in the case of the Matterhorn; +or because they had acquired the reputation +of being difficult, and it was thought that a +successful ascent would stamp the climber at once as +a skilful person and a very daring creature. Thus +places like Zermatt, Grindelwald, Chamouni, and the +Æggischhorn became the great centres of mountaineering, +and have remained so ever since. Independent +exploration gradually gave way to the +charm of meeting others bent on the same pursuit +of climbing; but this feeling was not without its +drawbacks, and tended to check what has been called +cosmopolitanism in mountaineering. How few, even +among those who visit the Alps regularly, know +anything whatever of such large, important, and interesting +districts as the Silvretta group, the Rheinwald +group, or the Lepontine Alps! while districts +like Zermatt are thronged and crowded, and the +mountains absolutely done to death. Not that it +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page306">[pg 306]</span><a name="Pg306" id="Pg306" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>is hard to understand how this narrowing of the +field of mountaineering has been brought about. +There comes a time of life to most men when they +find more pleasure in meeting old friends than in +making new acquaintances; and the same feeling +would appear to extend to the mountains. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +It must be confessed here that the writer is disposed +to look upon mountaineering in the Alps, in the +sense in which it has hitherto been known, as a +pastime that will before long become extinct. In +some soils trees grow with extraordinary rapidity and +vigour, but do not strike their roots very deep, and so +are prone to early decay. Still, it does not follow +that, even should these pessimist forebodings prove +true, and climbing be relegated to the limbo of archaic +pursuits, the Alps will not attract their thousands as +they have done for many years. The dearth of +novelty is sometimes held to be the principal cause +that will eventually lead to the decay of mountaineering. +There is a reasonable probability, however, to +judge from the Registrar-General’s reports, that the +world will still be peopled some time hence, and +possibly a generation will then arise of mountaineering +revivalists who, never having tasted the flavour +of novelty in Alpine climbing, will not perceive that +its absence is any loss. Yet in the Alps alone many +seem to forget that, while they are exhausting in +every detail a few spots, there are numerous and +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page307">[pg 307]</span><a name="Pg307" id="Pg307" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>varied expeditions of similar nature still to be accomplished, +the scenes of which lie within a few hours of +London. It is of course only to mountaineering as +a semi-fashionable craze that these remarks apply. +The knowledge of the art, acquired primarily in the +Alps, which has led to the development of mountaineering +as a science will not be wasted, and the +training acquired in holiday expeditions, when amusement +or the regaining of health was the principal +object, can be turned to valuable practical account +elsewhere. So shall there be a future for mountaineering. +No doubt but few may be able to find the +opportunity, unless indeed they make it somewhat of +a profession, of exploring the great mountainous +districts still almost untouched—such, for instance, as +the Himalayas. But it is in some such direction as +this that the force of the stream, somewhat tending +to dry up in its original channel, will, it may be hoped, +spread in the future. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The upward limit</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +It has already been shown, by the results of many +modern expeditions, that the old views that obtained +with respect to the upward limit of mountaineering +must, to say the least, be considerably modified. +From early times the question of the effects of rarefied +air in high regions on mountaineers has attracted +attention. As a matter of fact the subject is still +barely in its infancy. A few remarks on this point +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page308">[pg 308]</span><a name="Pg308" id="Pg308" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>may not perhaps be thought too technical, for they +bear, I hope, on the mountaineering of the future. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +It is matter of notoriety that in these days travellers +seem less subject to discomfort in the high Alps than +in former times. De Saussure, for instance, in the +account of his famous ascent of Mont Blanc in 1787, +speaks a good deal of the difficulty of respiration. At +his bivouac on the Plateau, at an elevation of 13,300 +feet, the effects of the rarefied air were much commented +on; and these remarks are the more valuable, +inasmuch as De Saussure was a man of science and +a most acute observer; while his account, a thing +too rare in these days, is characterised by extreme +modesty of description. The frequency of the respirations, +he observed, which ensued on any exertion +caused great fatigue. Nowadays, however, pedestrians, +often untrained, may be seen daily ascending +at a very much faster pace than De Saussure seems +to have gone, and yet the effects are scarcely felt. +No one now expects much to suffer from this cause, +and no one does. In recent times we hear accounts +of ascents of mountains like Elbruz, 18,526 feet, by +Mr. Grove and others; of Cotopaxi, 19,735 feet, and +Chimborazo, 20,517<a id="noteref_7" name="noteref_7" href="#note_7"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">7</span></span></a> feet, by Mr. Whymper; and the +most recent, and by far the most remarkable, of +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page309">[pg 309]</span><a name="Pg309" id="Pg309" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>Kabru in the Himalayas, about 24,000 feet, by Mr. +Graham. In all these expeditions the travellers +spent nights in bivouacs far above the level of the +Grand Plateau where De Saussure encamped. We +cannot suppose that in the Caucasus, the Andes, or +the Himalayas the air differs much from that of the +Alps with regard to its rarefaction effects on travellers. +In fact, the Alpine traveller would in this respect +probably be much better off, for the general conditions +surrounding him would be more like those to +which he was accustomed. He would not have, for +instance, to contend with the effects of changed or +meagre diet or unaccustomed climate. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Mr. Grove’s views</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Mr. F. C. Grove, a very high authority on such a +point, in his description of the ascent of Elbruz, in +the course of some remarks on the rarity of the air, +states his belief that at some height or another, less than +that of the loftiest mountain, there must be a limit at +which no amount of training and good condition will +enable a man to live; and he says, <span class="tei tei-q">“It may be taken +for granted that no human being could walk to the +top of Mount Everest.”</span><a id="noteref_8" name="noteref_8" href="#note_8"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">8</span></span></a> This was written in 1875; +but a great deal has happened since then, though the +same opinion is still very generally entertained. But +with this opinion I cannot coincide at all, for reasons +that appear to me logically conclusive. In the first +place, a party of three, composed of Mr. Graham, +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page310">[pg 310]</span><a name="Pg310" id="Pg310" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>Herr Emil Boss, and the Swiss guide Kauffman, have +ascended more than 5,000 feet higher than the top of +Elbruz, and none of the party experienced any serious +effect, or, indeed, apparently any effect at all other +than those naturally incidental to severe exertion. It +must be admitted that one result of their expedition +was to prove, tolerably conclusively, that Mount +Everest is not the highest mountain in the world. +Still, until it is officially deposed, it may be taken, for +argument’s sake, as the ultimate point. Now, it +would seem to be beyond doubt that a man, being +transported to a height much greater than Mount +Everest, can still live. In Messrs. Coxwell and +Glaisher’s famous balloon ascent from Wolverhampton +on September 5, 1862, described in <span class="tei tei-q">“Travels +in the Air,”</span> it was computed that the travellers +reached a height of nearly 37,000 feet,<a id="noteref_9" name="noteref_9" href="#note_9"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">9</span></span></a> and this +in less than an hour from the time of leaving the +earth. Deduct 5,000 feet from this computation, to +allow for possible error, and we still have a height left +of 32,000 feet, an elevation, that is, very considerably +greater than the summit of Mount Everest—possibly +a greater elevation than the summit of any mountain. +Life then, it is proved, can be sustained at such a height, +and the point that remains for consideration is whether +the necessary exertion of walking or climbing to the +same height would render the actual ascent impossible. +</p> + +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page311">[pg 311]</span><a name="Pg311" id="Pg311" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Mr. Glaisher’s experiences</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Since the days of De Saussure some 8,000 feet +have been added to the height to which the possibility +of ascending has been proved. It seems to me +unreasonable to assume that another 5,000 feet may +not yet be added, and arbitrary to conclude that +at some point higher than Kabru but lower than +Mount Everest the limit of human endurance must +necessarily be reached. Mr. Glaisher himself does +not appear to think that, from his experience, any +such ascent as that we have been considering would +be possible for an Alpine traveller (<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">op. cit.</span></span> p. 21 and +elsewhere). But, with every deference to so great an +authority, a few considerations may be submitted +which tend most seriously to invalidate his conclusions +and opinions, and which may serve to show also that +the effects of rarefied air probably differ more widely +in the two cases of the aëronaut and the mountaineer +than is generally supposed. Writing in 1871, Mr. +Glaisher says,<a id="noteref_10" name="noteref_10" href="#note_10"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">10</span></span></a> <span class="tei tei-q">“At a height of three miles I never +experienced any annoyance or discomfort; yet there +is no ascent I think of Mont Blanc in which great +inconvenience and severe <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">pain</span></span> have not been felt at a +height of 13,000 feet; but then, as before remarked, +this is an elevation attained only after two days of +excessive toil.”</span> Mr. Glaisher is here referring chiefly +to Dr. Hamel’s ascent of Mont Blanc, and would +seem apparently to be unaware that, long before he +wrote, the ascent of Mont Blanc, from Chamouni and +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page312">[pg 312]</span><a name="Pg312" id="Pg312" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>back to the same place, had been accomplished within +twenty-four hours. In 1873, if my memory serves +me right, Mr. Passingham started from Chamouni, +ascended the mountain, and returned to his hotel in +a little less than twenty hours.<a id="noteref_11" name="noteref_11" href="#note_11"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">11</span></span></a> Compare such an +ascent as this—not by any means an isolated +instance—with De Saussure’s experience, and when +we consider how remarkable has been the <a name="corr312" id="corr312" class="tei tei-anchor"></a><span class="tei tei-corr">development</span> +of mountaineering in this direction, we may surely hold +that to fix at present any absolute limit is unduly +arbitrary. Further, the ascents of Chimborazo and +the other mountains named above have all been +accomplished since Mr. Glaisher wrote. Mr. Glaisher +states that the aëronaut may acclimatise himself to +great heights by repeated ascents; but how much +more may the mountaineer then hope to do so! The +aëronaut necessarily makes ascents rapidly<a id="noteref_12" name="noteref_12" href="#note_12"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">12</span></span></a> and at +rare intervals. The mountaineer can acclimatise +himself to high regions by a constant and <a name="corr312a" id="corr312a" class="tei tei-anchor"></a><span class="tei tei-corr">gradual</span> +process, a method obviously better calculated to extend +the limits of his endurance. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Of course I am only discussing the actual possibility, +not entering into the question for a moment +of whether it is worth while to do it. It may be that +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page313">[pg 313]</span><a name="Pg313" id="Pg313" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>to attempt an ascent of Mount Everest would prove +almost as rash an undertaking as an endeavour to +swim through the Niagara rapids—that is, if the +mountaineering difficulties are so great as to make +the two instances parallel. Two points have to be +considered: one, that, granted the desirability of +making such an ascent, we do not yet fully know the +best manner of undertaking it; and another, that we +are still very ignorant as to the physiological effects of +rarefied air on the human frame.<a id="noteref_13" name="noteref_13" href="#note_13"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">13</span></span></a> +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Mountain acclimatisation</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +With regard to the first point, we know indeed +this much—that, granted good condition, a man can +<span class="tei tei-q">“acclimatise”</span> himself to great heights, and when +so acclimatised he can undergo much more exertion +in very high regions with much less effect. The +experience of Mr. Whymper in the Andes, and of +Mr. Graham and others in the Himalayas, has shown +this conclusively enough. Let a man sleep at a +height, say, of 18,000 feet, and then ascend from that +point another 3,000 or 4,000 feet; he may possibly +feel the effects to be so great that an attempt to +sleep again at the latter height would render him +incapable of exertion the next day, as far as an +ascent is concerned. Let him descend till he can +bivouac, say at 20,000 feet, and then again try, +starting afresh. After a while he would be able to +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page314">[pg 314]</span><a name="Pg314" id="Pg314" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>accomplish still more than at his first attempt; and so +on, until he reached the summit. But even supposing +that no amount of acclimatisation enables him +to accomplish his end, he has other weapons in his +armoury. +</p> +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Ascent of Mount Everest</span></div></div> +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +The second point mentioned above is that the +physiological effects of rarefied air on the human +economy are but little known; were these understood +the resources of science might be called in to obviate +them. It may be said that no amount of science will +obviate the very simple fact that exertion causes +fatigue, but the answer is that we have no real idea +of all the causes which lead to this fatigue. This is +not the place to speculate on a somewhat abstruse +and unquestionably complicated physiological problem, +but the direction in which the question may be +approached from the scientific side is worthy of being +pointed out. This much may be said, however, that +when we talk of strong heart and strong lungs in +connection with the question of the possibility of +ascending on foot to the greatest altitudes, we are +only, from the physiological point of view, taking into +account one or two factors, and perhaps not the most +important ones. The cavillers may be reminded +that physiology is not and never will become a +finite science. To my mind at least, as far as +human endurance is concerned, it would be no more +surprising to me to hear that a man had succeeded +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page315">[pg 315]</span><a name="Pg315" id="Pg315" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>in walking up Mount Everest than to know that a +man can succeed in standing an arctic climate while +on a sledging expedition. Objections like the difficulty +of arranging for a supply of food, of expense, of risk, +and so forth, are not taken into account—they are +really beside the question: they have not proved insuperable +obstacles in the case of arctic exploration; +they will not prove insurmountable to the ambitious +mountaineer we are contemplating. I do not for a +moment say that it would be wise to ascend Mount +Everest, but I believe most firmly that it is humanly +possible to do so; and, further, I feel sure that, even +in our own time, perhaps, the truth of these views will +receive material corroboration. Mount Everest itself +may offer insuperable mountaineering obstacles, but in +the unknown, unseen district to the north there may +be peaks of equal height presenting no more technical +difficulties than Mont Blanc or Elbruz. +</p> +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The value of mountaineering</span></div></div> +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +From the purely athletic point of view, then, the +mountaineering experience which has been gained +almost exclusively in the Alps may, by a still further +development in the future, enable the climber so to +develop the art that he may reach the highest elevation +on this world’s crust; and he may do this without +running undue risk. <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Cui bono?</span></span> it may be asked; +and it is nearly as hard to answer the question as it +is to explain to the supine and unaspiring person the +good that may be expected to accrue to humanity by +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page316">[pg 316]</span><a name="Pg316" id="Pg316" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>reaching the North Pole; yet the latter project, albeit +to some it seems like a struggle of man against physical +forces which make or mar worlds, is one that is held +to be right and proper to be followed. At the least +an observer, even of limited powers, may reasonably +be expected, supposing he accomplished such a feat +as the ascent of Mount Everest, to bring back results +of equal scientific value with the arctic traveller, while +the purely geographical information he should gain +would have fiftyfold greater practical value. The +art and science of mountaineering has been learned +and developed in the Alps, and the acquirement of +this learning has been a pleasure to many. If the +holiday nature of mountaineering should in the future +be somewhat dropped, and if a few of those who +follow should take up the more serious side, and make +what has been a pastime into a profession (and why +should not some do so? That which is worth doing +at all is worth developing to the utmost possible limit), +good will come, unless it be argued that there is no +gain in extending geographical knowledge; and no +advantage in rectifying surveys and rendering them as +accurate as possible. As has been remarked by Mr. +Douglas Freshfield, the advantage of including in +survey parties, such as are still engaged on our Indian +frontier, the services of some who have made mountaineering +a branch to be learnt in their profession, +would be very distinct. Work done in the Alps +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page317">[pg 317]</span><a name="Pg317" id="Pg317" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>would, in this direction, perhaps, bear the best fruit +and reap the highest practical value which it might +be hoped to attain. The value would be real. The +search after truth, whether it be in the fields of +natural science, of geography, or its to-be-adopted +sister orography, can never fail to be right and good +and beneficial. Enthusiasm all this! you say. +Granted freely. Without some enthusiasm and +energy the world would cease to turn, and the retarding +section of mankind would be triumphant, +save that they would be too languid to realise the +victory of their principles. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +But still, if properly qualified men are to be forthcoming +to meet such a want, which undoubtedly +seems to exist, the old training-ground must not be +deserted; the playground of Europe must be regarded +in relation to serious work in the same light that the +playing-fields of Eton were regarded by one who was +somewhat of an authority. The Great Duke’s remark +is too well known to need quotation. English folk +may find it hard to hold their own against their +near relations in athletic pursuits, such as cricket +and sculling, but in mountaineering they undoubtedly +lead, and will continue to do so. In one phase indeed +of the pursuit their supremacy is menaced. In the +matter of recognising the practical value to be obtained +from mountaineering in surveying and the like, they are +already behind other countries. The roll of honorary +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page318">[pg 318]</span><a name="Pg318" id="Pg318" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>members of the Alpine Club comprises a list of men, +most of whom have utilised their mountaineering +experience to good purpose in advancing scientific +exploration. In this department it is to be hoped +that we shall not suffer ourselves to be outstripped, +nor allow a store of valuable and laboriously acquired +experience to remain wasted. The threatening cloud +may pass off; the future of Alpine mountaineering +may not prove to be so gloomy as it sometimes seems +to the writer in danger of gradually becoming. The +depression is, possibly, only temporary, and a natural +consequence of reaction; and the zigzagging line on +the chart, though it may never perhaps rise again to +the point it once marked, yet may keep well at the +normal—better, perhaps, at such a level than at fever +heat. The old cry that we know so well on the +mountains, that meets always with a ready thrill +of response, may acquire a wider significance, and +men will be found to answer to the familiar call of +<span class="tei tei-q">“Vorwärts, immer vorwärts!”</span> +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +After all, a century hence the mountaineering +centres of to-day will perhaps still attract as they do +now. It may be possible to get to Chamouni without +submitting to the elaborately devised discomfort of +the present Channel passage, and without the terrors +of asphyxiation in the carriages of the Chemin de Fer +du Nord. Surely the charm of the mountains must +always draw men to the Alps, even though the glaciers +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page319">[pg 319]</span><a name="Pg319" id="Pg319" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>may have shrunk up and sunk down, though places +like Arolla and the Grimsel may have become thriving +towns, or radical changes such as a drainage system +at Chamouni have been instituted. If the glaciers do +shrink, there will be all the more scope for the rock +climber and the more opportunity of perfecting an art +which has already been so much developed. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">An Alpine Rip van Winkle</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +A Rip van Winkle of our day, waking up in that +epoch of the future, would for certain find much that +was unaltered. The same types of humanity would +be around him. Conceive this somnolent hero of +fiction, clad in a felt wideawake that had once been +white, in knickerbockers and Norfolk jacket, of which +the seams had at one time held together, supporting +his bent frame and creaking joints on a staff with +rusted spike and pick. He descends laboriously +from a vehicle that had jolted impartially generations +before him (for the carriages of the valley are as little +liable to wear out, in the eyes of their proprietors, as +the <span class="tei tei-q">“wonderful one-hoss shay”</span>). He finds himself +on a summer evening by the Hôtel de Ville at +Chamouni, and facing the newly erected Opera-house. +He looks with wondering eyes around. A youth +(great-great-great-great-grandson of Jacques Balmat) +approaches and waits respectfully by his side, ready to +furnish information. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +<span class="tei tei-q">“Why these flags and these rejoicings?”</span> the old +man asks. +</p> + +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page320">[pg 320]</span><a name="Pg320" id="Pg320" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +<span class="tei tei-q">“To celebrate the tercentenary of the first ascent +of Mont Blanc,”</span> the boy answers. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +The veteran gazes around, shading his eyes with +his shrivelled hand. The travellers come in. First +a triumphal procession of successful and intrepid +mountaineers. Banners wave, cannon go off—or +more probably miss fire—bouquets are displayed, +champagne and compliments are poured out; both +the latter expressions of congratulation equally gassy, +and both about equally genuine. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +<span class="tei tei-q">“Who are these?”</span> the old man inquires. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +<span class="tei tei-q">“Do you not see the number on their banner?”</span> +answers the youth; <span class="tei tei-q">“they are the heroes of the forty-fifth +section of the tenth branch of the northern +division of the Savoy Alpine Club.”</span> +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +<span class="tei tei-q">“Ah!”</span> the old man murmurs to himself, with a +sigh of recollection, <span class="tei tei-q">“I can remember that they were +numerous even in my day.”</span> +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Then follows a sad-looking, dejected creature, stealing +back to his hotel by byways, but with face bronzed +from exposure on rocks, not scorched by sun-reflecting +snow; his boots scored with multitudinous little cuts +and scratches telling of difficult climbing; his hands +as brown as his face; his finger-nails, it must be +admitted, seriously impaired in their symmetry. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +<span class="tei tei-q">“And who is this? Has he been guilty of some +crime?”</span> the old man asks. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +<span class="tei tei-q">“Not so,”</span> the answer comes; <span class="tei tei-q">“he has just +com<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page321">[pg 321]</span><a name="Pg321" id="Pg321" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>pleted the thousandth ascent of the Aiguille...; +he comes of a curious race which, history relates, at +one time much frequented these districts; but that +was a great while ago—long before the monarchy +was re-established. You do well to look at him; that +is the last of the climbing Englishmen. They always +seem depressed when they have succeeded in achieving +their ambition of the moment; it is a characteristic of +their now almost extinct race.”</span> +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Mountaineering in the future</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +<span class="tei tei-q">“And what about the perils of the expedition?”</span> +the old man asks, brightening up a little as if some +old ideas had suddenly flashed across his mind. <span class="tei tei-q">“I +would fain know whether the journey is different now +from what it was formerly; yet the heroes would mock +me, perchance, if I were to interrogate them.”</span> +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +<span class="tei tei-q">“Not at all,”</span> the youth replies. <span class="tei tei-q">“There are but +few of the first party who would not vouchsafe to give +you a full account, and might even in their courtesy +embellish the narrative with flowers of rhetoric. But +it is unnecessary. They will print a detailed and full +description of their exploits. It has all been said +before, but so has everything else, I think.”</span> +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +<span class="tei tei-q">“That is true,”</span> the old man murmurs to himself; <span class="tei tei-q">“it +was even so in my time, and two hundred years before +I lived a French writer commenced his book with the +remark, <span class="tei tei-q">‘<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Tout est dit.</span></span>’</span> But what of the other, the +dejected survivor? does he not too write?”</span> +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +<span class="tei tei-q">“Yes, indeed, but not in the same strain; he will +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page322">[pg 322]</span><a name="Pg322" id="Pg322" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>but pour out a little gentle sarcasm and native spleen, +in mild criticism of the fulsome periods he peruses in +other tongues.”</span> +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +<span class="tei tei-q">“Ah me!”</span> thinks the old man, <span class="tei tei-q">“in one respect then +I need not prove so much behind the time. If the +memory of the Alpine literature of my day were still +fresh, I could hold mine own with those I see around.”</span> +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +May I be permitted, in conclusion, to come back +to our own day, and to say a very few words on the +subject of mountaineering accidents? Most heartily +would I concur with any one who raised the objection +that such remarks are out of place in a chapter on +the mountaineering of the future. But perhaps we +have been looking too far ahead, and there may be a +period to follow between this our time and the future +to be hoped for. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Dangers of the Alps</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +It has sometimes been stated and written that no +one desires to remove from mountaineering all danger. +The dangers of mountaineering have been divided by +a well-known authority into real and imaginary. The +supposed existence of the latter is, I grant, desirable, +especially to the inexperienced climber; but I shall +always contend that it ought to be the great object of +every votary of the pursuit to minimise the former to +the utmost of his ability. Now, it is only by true +experience—that is, by learning gradually the art of +mountaineering—that the climber will achieve this +result. Few of those unacquainted with the subject +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page323">[pg 323]</span><a name="Pg323" id="Pg323" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>can have any idea of the extraordinary difference +between the risk run on a difficult expedition (that is, +on one where difficulties occur: the name of the peak +or pass has little to do with the matter) by a practised +mountaineer who has learned something of the art, +and an inexperienced climber who has nothing but +the best intentions to assist his steps. The man of +experience bears always in mind the simple axioms +and rules of his craft; if he does not he is a bad +mountaineer. If the plain truth be told, accidents in +the Alps have almost invariably, to whomsoever they +befell, been due to breaking one or more of these +same well-known rules, or, in other words, to bad +mountaineering. That such is no more than a simple +statement of fact a former president of the Alpine +Club, Mr. C. E. Mathews, has abundantly proved.<a id="noteref_14" name="noteref_14" href="#note_14"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style="font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">14</span></span></a> +Numbers of our countrymen, young and old, annually +rush out to the Alps for the first time. Fired with +ambition, or led on by the fascination of the pastime, +with scarcely any preliminary training and no preliminary +study of the subject, they at once begin to +attack the more difficult peaks and passes. Success +perhaps attends their efforts. Unfit, they go up a +difficult mountain, trusting practically to the ability +of the guides to do their employers’ share of the work +as well as their own. They descend, and think to gauge +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page324">[pg 324]</span><a name="Pg324" id="Pg324" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>their skill by the name of the expedition undertaken. +The state of the weather and of the mountain determine +whether such a performance be an act of simple +or of culpable folly. For such the imaginary dangers +are the most formidable. If they had taken the +trouble to begin at the beginning, to learn the difference +between the stem and stern of a boat before +attempting to navigate an ironclad, they would have +recognised, and profited by, the true risks run. As +it is, they are probably inflated with conceit at overcoming +visionary difficulties. They may make, indeed, +in this way what in Alpine slang is called a good +<span class="tei tei-q">“book;”</span> but by far the greater number fail to perceive +that there is anything to learn. It is a pastime—an +amusement; they do not look beyond this. +But these same climbers would admit that in other +forms of sport, such as cricket or rowing, proficiency +is not found in beginners. It is in the study and +development of the amusement that the true and +deeper pleasure is to be found. A tyro in cricket +would make himself an object of ridicule in a high-class +match; the novice in the art of rowing would +be loth to display his feeble powers if thrust into a +racing four with three tried oarsmen; and yet the +embryo climber can see nothing absurd in attacking +mountains of recognised difficulty. Inexperience in +the former instances at least could cause no harm, +while ignorance of the elementary principles of +moun<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page325">[pg 325]</span><a name="Pg325" id="Pg325" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>taineering renders the climber a serious source of +danger not only to himself but to others. There is +no royal road to the acquirement of mountaineering +knowledge. It is just as difficult to use the axe or +alpenstock properly as the oar or the racquet; just +as much patient, persevering practice is needed; but +it is not on difficult expeditions that such inexperience +can be best overcome. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">The real mountaineer</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +A man of average activity could, probably, actually +climb, without any particular experience, most of, or +all, the more difficult rock peaks under good conditions +of weather and the like. But how different from the +really practical mountaineer, who strives to make an +art of his pastime. Watch the latter. First and +foremost, he knows when to turn back, and does not +hesitate to act as his judgment directs. He bears in +mind that there is pleasure to be obtained from +mountaineering even though the programme may not +be carried out in its entirety as planned, and realises +to the full that +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-lg" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-left: 2.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> +<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">’Tis better to have climbed and failed</div> +<div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left">Than never to have climbed at all.</div> +</div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +His companions are always safe with him, his climbing +unselfish; he never dislodges a loose stone—except +purposely—either with hands, feet, or the loose +rope; he is always as firm as circumstances will +permit, prepared to withstand any sudden slip; he +never puts forth more strength at each step than is +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page326">[pg 326]</span><a name="Pg326" id="Pg326" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>necessary, thus saving his powers, being always ready +in an emergency, and never degenerating into that +most dangerous of encumbrances, a tired member of +a united party: not, of course, that the vast majority +of amateurs can ever hope, with their imperfect +practice, to attain to the level of even a second-rate +guide; still, by bringing his intelligence to bear on +this, as he does on any other amusement, the +amateur can render himself something more than +a thoroughly reliable companion on any justifiable +expedition. +</p> + +<div class="tei tei-marginnote tei-marginnote-margin"><div class="tei tei-marginnotetext"><span style="font-size: 80%">Conclusion</span></div></div> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> +Let the spirit of competition lead young climbers +to strive after excellence in this direction, rather than, +as is too commonly the case, induce them to take +<span class="tei tei-q">“Times”</span> as the criterion of mountaineering proficiency. +There are instructors enough. Even from +an inferior guide an infinite amount may be learnt; +at the least such a one can recognise the real danger +of the Alps, and in this respect possesses a faculty +which is one of the chief the mountaineer has to +acquire. Let the spirit in which the Alps are climbed +be of some such nature as that I have attempted to +indicate, and accidents such as those recorded in +Mr. C. E. Mathews’ grim list will be of such rare +occurrence that they will never be called up to discredit +mountaineering. If, perchance, any words +here written shall prompt in the future the climber +to perfect his art more and more while frequenting +<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page327">[pg 327]</span><a name="Pg327" id="Pg327" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the old haunts, and to extend and utilise mountaineering +still more, then at least the writer may feel, like +the mountain when it had brought forth the ridiculous +mouse, that his labour has not been wholly in vain. +Yet more: his gloomy forebodings shall be falsified, +and with respect to the future of mountaineering the +outlook will be bright enough. +</p> + +<p class="tei tei-p" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 0.81em; margin-top: 3.24em"><span style="font-size: 81%"> +LONDON: PRINTED BY</span><br /><span style="font-size: 81%"> +SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE</span><br /><span style="font-size: 81%"> +AND PARLIAMENT STREET +</span></p> + </div></div> + <div class="tei tei-back" style="margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 6.00em"> + <div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + + + + <hr class="doublepage" /><div id="footnotes" class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"><span style="font-size: 173%">Footnotes</span></h1> + <dl class="tei tei-list-footnotes"><dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_1" name="note_1" href="#noteref_1">1.</a></dt><dd class="tei tei-notetext">Franz Andermatten died in August 1883. His name is +mentioned elsewhere in these sketches, but I leave what I have +written untouched: for I do not hold with those who would +efface the recollection of all that was bright and merry in one taken +from us.</dd><dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_2" name="note_2" href="#noteref_2">2.</a></dt><dd class="tei tei-notetext">In the old house, be it noted—not the modern luxurious combination +of a granite fortress and a palace.</dd><dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_3" name="note_3" href="#noteref_3">3.</a></dt><dd class="tei tei-notetext"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Travels in the Alps</span></span>, p. 119.</dd><dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_4" name="note_4" href="#noteref_4">4.</a></dt><dd class="tei tei-notetext">Described in anatomical text-books as forming the swelling of +the calf.</dd><dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_5" name="note_5" href="#noteref_5">5.</a></dt><dd class="tei tei-notetext">It has transpired since that our judgment happened to be right +in this matter, and we might probably have saved an hour or more +at this part of the ascent.</dd><dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_6" name="note_6" href="#noteref_6">6.</a></dt><dd class="tei tei-notetext">Hector Berlioz.</dd><dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_7" name="note_7" href="#noteref_7">7.</a></dt><dd class="tei tei-notetext">This is Mr. Edward Whymper’s measurement. Humboldt, as +quoted by Mr. Whymper, gave 21,460 feet as the height. (<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Alpine +Journal</span></span>, vol. x. p. 442.)</dd><dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_8" name="note_8" href="#noteref_8">8.</a></dt><dd class="tei tei-notetext"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">The Frosty Caucasus</span></span>, by F. C. Grove, p. 236.</dd><dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_9" name="note_9" href="#noteref_9">9.</a></dt><dd class="tei tei-notetext"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Travels in the Air</span></span>, edited by James Glaisher, F.R.S., p. 57 +<a name="corr310" id="corr310" class="tei tei-anchor"></a><span class="tei tei-corr">(2nd</span> ed.).</dd><dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_10" name="note_10" href="#noteref_10">10.</a></dt><dd class="tei tei-notetext"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Op. cit.</span></span> p. 9.</dd><dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_11" name="note_11" href="#noteref_11">11.</a></dt><dd class="tei tei-notetext">I understand that the expedition has since been accomplished +in a much shorter time.</dd><dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_12" name="note_12" href="#noteref_12">12.</a></dt><dd class="tei tei-notetext">In Messrs. Coxwell and Glaisher’s ascent from Wolverhampton +the balloon when at the height of 29,000 feet was mounting at the +rate of 1,000 feet a minute.</dd><dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_13" name="note_13" href="#noteref_13">13.</a></dt><dd class="tei tei-notetext">I am aware of M. Paul Bert’s researches; but these questions +are not to be settled in the laboratory.</dd><dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_14" name="note_14" href="#noteref_14">14.</a></dt><dd class="tei tei-notetext"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Vide</span></span> <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Alpine Journal</span></span>, vol. xi. p. 78. <span class="tei tei-q">“The Alpine Obituary,”</span> +by C. E. Mathews.</dd></dl> + </div> + + + </div> + <hr class="doublepage" /><div class="boxed tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <a name="pdf29" id="pdf29"></a><a name="toc30" id="toc30"></a> + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"><span style="font-size: 173%">Transcriber’s Note</span></h1> + + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The following changes have been made to the text:</p> + <table summary="This is a list." class="tei tei-list" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"><tbody><tr class="tei tei-labelitem"><th class="tei tei-label"></th><td class="tei tei-item"><a href="#corrix" class="tei tei-ref">page ix</a>, page number <span class="tei tei-q">“1”</span> added</td></tr><tr class="tei tei-labelitem"><th class="tei tei-label"></th><td class="tei tei-item"><a href="#corrxiv" class="tei tei-ref">page xiv</a>, page number <span class="tei tei-q">“290”</span> changed to <span class="tei tei-q">“291”</span></td></tr><tr class="tei tei-labelitem"><th class="tei tei-label"></th><td class="tei tei-item"><a href="#corr031" class="tei tei-ref">page 31</a>, <span class="tei tei-q">“gulley”</span> changed to <span class="tei tei-q">“gully”</span></td></tr><tr class="tei tei-labelitem"><th class="tei tei-label"></th><td class="tei tei-item"><a href="#corr096" class="tei tei-ref">page 96</a>, <span class="tei tei-q">“sepulchra”</span> changed to <span class="tei tei-q">“sepulchral”</span></td></tr><tr class="tei tei-labelitem"><th class="tei tei-label"></th><td class="tei tei-item"><a href="#corr113" class="tei tei-ref">page 113</a>, <span class="tei tei-q">“complicate”</span> changed to <span class="tei tei-q">“complicated”</span></td></tr><tr class="tei tei-labelitem"><th class="tei tei-label"></th><td class="tei tei-item"><a href="#corr151" class="tei tei-ref">page 151</a>, <span class="tei tei-q">“thoughful”</span> changed to <span class="tei tei-q">“thoughtful”</span></td></tr><tr class="tei tei-labelitem"><th class="tei tei-label"></th><td class="tei tei-item"><a href="#corr216" class="tei tei-ref">page 216</a>, <span class="tei tei-q">“menta”</span> changed to <span class="tei tei-q">“mental”</span></td></tr><tr class="tei tei-labelitem"><th class="tei tei-label"></th><td class="tei tei-item"><a href="#corr255" class="tei tei-ref">page 255</a>, <span class="tei tei-q">“thier”</span> changed to <span class="tei tei-q">“their”</span></td></tr><tr class="tei tei-labelitem"><th class="tei tei-label"></th><td class="tei tei-item"><a href="#corr269" class="tei tei-ref">page 269</a>, <span class="tei tei-q">“in roduction”</span> changed to <span class="tei tei-q">“introduction”</span></td></tr><tr class="tei tei-labelitem"><th class="tei tei-label"></th><td class="tei tei-item"><a href="#corr310" class="tei tei-ref">page 310</a>, parenthesis added before <span class="tei tei-q">“2nd”</span></td></tr><tr class="tei tei-labelitem"><th class="tei tei-label"></th><td class="tei tei-item"><a href="#corr312" class="tei tei-ref">page 312</a>, <span class="tei tei-q">“developmen”</span> changed to <span class="tei tei-q">“development”</span>, + <span class="tei tei-q">“gradua”</span> changed to <span class="tei tei-q">“<a href="#corr312a" class="tei tei-ref">gradual</a>”</span></td></tr></tbody></table> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Variations in hyphenation (e.g. <span class="tei tei-q">“bootlace”</span>, <span class="tei tei-q">“boot-lace”</span>; + <span class="tei tei-q">“doorpost”</span>, <span class="tei tei-q">“door-post”</span>) + have not been changed.</p> + </div> + <hr class="doublepage" /><div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <div id="pgfooter" class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"><pre class="pre tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 3.00em; margin-top: 3.00em">***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ABOVE THE SNOW LINE*** +</pre><hr class="doublepage" /><div class="tei tei-div" style="margin-bottom: 3.00em; margin-top: 3.00em"><a name="rightpageheader31" id="rightpageheader31"></a><a name="pgtoc32" id="pgtoc32"></a><a name="pdf33" id="pdf33"></a><h1 class="tei tei-head" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"><span style="font-size: 173%">Credits</span></h1><table summary="This is a list." class="tei tei-list" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"><tbody><tr><th class="tei tei-label tei-label-gloss">March 1, 2011 </th></tr><tr><td class="tei tei-item tei-item-gloss"><table summary="This is a list." class="tei tei-list" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; 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font-size: x-large } + .center { text-align: center } + .ill { margin-left: 2; margin-right: 2 } + .italic { font-style: italic } + .small { font-size: 75% } + .smallcaps { font-variant: small-caps } + figure { text-align: center } + head { text-align: center } + lg { margin-left: 2 } + .w80 { } + @media pdf { + .w80 { width: 80%; page-float: 'htp' } + } + + </pgStyleSheet> + </pgExtensions> + +<text lang="en"> +<front> + <div> + <divGen type="pgheader" /> + </div> + <div> + <divGen type="encodingDesc" /> + </div> + <div> + <pgIf output="txt"><then></then> + <else><p rend="page-break-before: always"><figure url="images/cover.jpg" rend="w80"><figDesc>Cover image</figDesc></figure></p></else></pgIf> +<pb/> + +<p rend="center; font-size: large; page-break-before: always">ABOVE THE SNOW LINE</p> + +<pb/> + +<p rend="center; small; page-break-before: always">LONDON: PRINTED BY<lb/> +SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE<lb/> +AND PARLIAMENT STREET</p> + +<pb/><anchor id='Pgi'/> + +<pb/><anchor id='Pgii'/> +<pgIf output='txt'><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: THE BIETSCHHORN. FROM THE PETERSGRAT]</p> +</then><else> + <p rend="page-break-before: always"><figure url="images/illo_005.jpg" rend="w80"><head>THE BIETSCHHORN. FROM THE PETERSGRAT</head> + <figDesc>The Bietschhorn. From the Petersgrad</figDesc></figure></p> +</else></pgIf> +</div><titlePage rend="center; page-break-before: always"> +<pb/><anchor id='Pgiii'/> + +<docTitle> + <titlePart type="main" rend="font-size: xx-large">ABOVE THE SNOW LINE</titlePart> + <lb/><lb/> + <titlePart type="sub" rend="font-size: large">MOUNTAINEERING SKETCHES<lb/> + BETWEEN 1870 AND 1880</titlePart> +</docTitle> + <lb/><lb/> + <byline> + BY<lb/> + <docAuthor rend="font-size: large">CLINTON DENT</docAuthor> + <lb/> + <hi rend="small">VICE-PRESIDENT OF THE ALPINE CLUB</hi> + </byline> + <lb/> + <epigraph> + <p><q><hi rend='italic'>Celui qui n’a jamais ses heures<lb/>de + folie est moins sage qu’il ne + le<lb/>pense</hi></q>—<hi rend='smallcaps'>La Bruyère</hi></p> + </epigraph> + <lb/> + <titlePart><hi rend="small">WITH TWO ENGRAVINGS BY EDWARD WHYMPER AND<lb/> + AN ILLUSTRATION BY PERCY MACQUOID</hi></titlePart> + <lb/><lb/><lb/> + <docImprint rend="font-size: large"> + <pubPlace>LONDON</pubPlace><lb/> + <publisher>LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO.</publisher><lb/> + <date>1885</date> + </docImprint> +<lb/><lb/> + <titlePart><hi rend='italic; font-size: small'>All rights reserved</hi></titlePart> +</titlePage><div> +<pb/><anchor id='Pgiv'/> + +<pb/><anchor id='Pgv'/> + +<p rend="center; page-break-before: always"> + THESE SKETCHES OF MOUNTAINEERING<lb/> + I DEDICATE TO<lb/> + <hi rend="font-size: large">T. I. D.</hi><lb/> + <hi rend="small">IN THE HOPE THAT A BOOK WITHOUT A HEROINE<lb/> + MAY, AT LEAST, ACQUIRE SOME FEMININE INTEREST</hi> +</p> + +<pb/><anchor id='Pgvi'/> +</div><div type="preface" rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb/><anchor id='Pgvii'/> +<index index="toc"/><index index="pdf"/> +<head>PREFACE</head> + +<p> +Some of the following sketches do not now appear for +the first time; but such as have been before published +in other form have been entirely re-written, +and, in great measure, recast. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb"/> + +<p> +To the writer the work has afforded an occasional +distraction from more serious professional work, and +he cannot wish better than that it should serve the +same purpose to the reader. +</p> + +<dateline rend="text-align: left"><name type="place"><hi rend='smallcaps'>Cortina di Ampezzo</hi></name>:<lb/> +<date><hi rend='italic'>September 1884</hi></date>.</dateline> + +<pb/><anchor id='Pgviii'/> +</div><div type="toc" rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb/><anchor id='Pgix'/> +<index index="toc"/><index index="pdf"/> +<head>CONTENTS</head> + + <table rend="tblcolumns:'lw(65m) r'; latexcolumns:'p{7.5cm}r'"> + <row> + <cell rend="center">CHAPTER I.</cell> + <cell></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="center"><hi rend="small">AN EXPEDITION IN THE OLDEN STYLE</hi></cell> + <cell></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><hi rend="small">PAGE</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell>Buried records—<hi rend='italic'>Litera scripta manet</hi>—The survival of the unfit—A +literary octopus—Sybaritic mountaineering—On mountain +<q>form</q>—Lessons to be learned in the Alps—The growth +and spread of the climbing craze—Variations of the art—A +tropical day in the valley—A deserted hostelry—The hotel +staff appears in several characters—Ascent of the Balfrinhorn—Our +baggage train and transport department—A well-ventilated +shelter—On sleeping out: its advantages on the +present occasion—The Mischabelhörner family group—A +plea for Saas and the Fée plateau—We attack the Südlenzspitz—The +art of detecting hidden crevasses—Plans for the +future—Sentiment on a summit—The feast is spread—The +Alphubeljoch—We meet our warmest welcome at an inn</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><anchor id="corrix"/><corr sic="(missing)"><ref target="Pg001">1</ref></corr></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="center">CHAPTER II.</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="center"><hi rend="small">THE ROTHHORN (MOMING) FROM ZERMATT</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell>The Alpine dramatis personæ—Mountaineering fact and romance—The +thirst for novelty and its symptoms—The first ascent +of the Moming—Preliminaries are observed—Rock <hi rend='italic'>v.</hi> snow +mountains—The amateur and the guide on rocks and on +<pb n='x'/><anchor id='Pgx'/>snow—The programme is made out—Franz Andermatten—Falling +stones in the gully—We smooth away the difficulties—The +psychological effects of reaching mountain summits—A +rock bombardment and a narrow escape—The youthful +tourist and his baggage—Hotel trials—We are interviewed—The +gushers</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg031">31</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="center">CHAPTER III.</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="center"><hi rend="small">EARLY ATTEMPTS ON THE AIGUILLE DU DRU</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell>The Alps and the early mountaineers—The last peaks to surrender—The +Aiguille du Dru—Messrs. Kennedy and Pendlebury’s +attempt on the peak—One-day expeditions in the Alps +and thoughts on huts and sleeping out—The Chamouni +guide system—A word on guides, past and present—The +somnolent landlord and his peculiarities—Some of the party +see a chamois—Doubts as to the peak and the way—The +duplicity of the Aiguille deceives us—Telescopic observations—An +ill-arranged glacier—Franz and his mighty axe—A +start on the rocks in the wrong direction—Progress reported—An +adjournment—The rocks of the lower peak of the +Aiguille du Dru—Our first failure—The expedition resumed—A +new line of ascent—We reach the sticking point—Beaten +back—The results gained by the two days’ climbing</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg056">56</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="center">CHAPTER IV.</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="center"><hi rend="small">A DAY ACROSS COUNTRY</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell>The art of meteorological vaticination—The climate we leave +our homes for—Observations in the valley—The diligence +arrives and shoots its load—Types of travellers—The Alpine +habitué—The elderly spinster on tour—A stern Briton—A +family party—We seek fresh snow-fields—The Bietschhorn—A +sepulchral bivouac—On early starts and their curious +effects on the temperament—A choice of routes—A deceptive +ice gully—The avalanches on the Bietschhorn—We work up +<pb n='xi'/><anchor id='Pgxi'/>to a dramatic situation—The united party nearly fall out—A +limited panorama—A race for home—Caught out—A short +cut—Driven to extremities—The water jump—An aged person +comes to the rescue—A classical banquet at Ried—The +old curé and his hospitality—A wasted life?</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg096">96</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="center">CHAPTER V.</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="center"><hi rend="small">AN OLD FRIEND WITH A NEW FACE</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell>Chamouni again—The hotel <hi rend='italic'>clientèle</hi>—A youthful hero—The inevitable +English family—A scientific gentleman—A dream +of the future—The hereafter of the Alps and of Alpine +literature—A condensed mountain ascent—Wanted, a programme—A +double <q>Brocken</q>—A hill-side phenomenon and +a familiar character—A strong argument—Halting doubts +and fears—A digression on mountaineering accidents—<q>From +gay to grave, from lively to severe</q>—The storm +breaks—A battle with the elements—Beating the air—The +ridge carried by assault—What next, and next?—A topographical +problem and a cool proposal—The descent down +the Vallée Blanche—The old Montanvert hotel—The Montanvert +path and its frequenters</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg130">130</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="center">CHAPTER VI.</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="center"><hi rend="small">ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE DU DRU</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="center"><q><foreign rend='italic'>Decies repetita placebit</foreign></q></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell>Disadvantages of narratives of personal adventure—Expeditions +on the Aiguille du Dru in 1874—The ridge between the +Aiguilles du Dru and Verte—<q>Défendu de passer par là</q>—Distance +lends enchantment—Other climbers attack the +peak—View of the mountain from the Col de Balme—We +try the northern side, and fail more signally than usual—Showing +that mountain fever is of the recurrent type—We +take seats below, but have no opportunity of going up +higher<pb n='xii'/><anchor id='Pgxii'/>—The campaign opens—We go under canvas—A spasmodic +start, and another failure—A change of tactics and a new +leader—Our sixteenth attempt—Sports and pastimes at +Chamouni—The art of cray-fishing—The apparel oft proclaims +the man—A canine acquaintance—A new ally—The +turning-point of the expedition—A rehearsal for the final +performance—A difficult descent—A blank in the narrative—A +carriage misadventure—A penultimate failure—We start +with two guides and finish with one—The rocks of the Dru—Maurer +joins the party—Our nineteenth attempt—A +narrow escape in the gully—The arête at last—The final +scramble—Our foe is vanquished and decorated—The return +journey—Benighted—A moonlight descent—We are graciously +received—On <q>fair</q> mountaineering—The prestige +of new peaks—Chamouni becomes festive—<q>Heut’ Abend +grosses Feuerwerkfest</q>—Chamouni dances and shows hospitality—The +scene closes in </cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg169">169</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="center">CHAPTER VII.</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="center"><hi rend="small">BYE-DAYS IN ALPINE MIDLANDS</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="center">1. <hi rend='italic'>A Pardonable Digression.</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell>On well-ordered intellects—The drawbacks of accurate memory—Sub-Alpine +walks: their admirers and their recommendations—The +<q>High-Level Route</q>—The Ruinette—An infallible +prescription for ill-humour—A climb and a meditation +on grass slopes—The agile person’s acrobatic feats—The +psychological effects of sunrise—The ascent of the +Ruinette—We return to our mutton at Arolla—A vision on +the hill-side.</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="center">2. <hi rend='italic'>A Little Maiden.</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell>Saas in the olden days—A neglected valley—The mountains +drained dry—A curious omission—The Portienhorn, and its +good points as a mountain—The chef produces a masterpiece—An +undesirable tenement to be let unfurnished—An +evicted family—A rapid act of mountaineering—On the +<pb n='xiii'/><anchor id='Pgxiii'/>pleasures of little climbs—The various methods of making +new expeditions on one mountain—On the mountaineer who +has nothing to learn, and his consequent ignorance </cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg236">236</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="center">CHAPTER VIII.</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="center"><hi rend="small">A SENTIMENTAL ALPINE JOURNEY</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell>Long <q>waits</q> and entr’actes—The Mont Buet as an unknown +mountain—We hire carriages—A digression on a stationary +vehicle—A straggling start—The incomplete moralist—The +niece to the moralist—A discourse on gourmets—An artistic +interlude—We become thoughtful, and reach the height of +sentiment and the top of the Mont Buet—Some other members +of the party—The mountaineers perform—How glissading +ambition did o’erleap itself—A vision on the summit—The +moralist leaves us for a while—Entertainment at the Bérard +Chalet—View of the Aiguille Verte—The end of the journey</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg266">266</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="center">CHAPTER IX.</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="center"><hi rend="small">A FRAGMENT</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell>An unauthentic MS.—Solitude on the mountain: its advantages +to the historian of the Alps—A rope walk—The crossing of +the Schrund—A novel form of avalanche and an airy situation—A +towering obstacle—The issue of the expedition in +the balance—A very narrow escape—The final rush—Victory!—The +perils of the descent—I plunge <hi rend='italic'>in medias res</hi>—A +flying descent</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><anchor id="corrxiv"/><corr sic="290"><ref target="Pg291">291</ref></corr></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="center">CHAPTER X.</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="center"><hi rend="small">THE FUTURE OF MOUNTAINEERING</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell>Mountaineers and their critics—The early days of the Alpine +Club—The founders of mountaineering—The growth of the + <pb n='xiv'/><anchor id='Pgxiv'/>amusement—Novelty and exploration—The formation of +centres—Narrowing of the field of mountaineering—The upward +limit of mountaineering—De Saussure’s experience—Modern +development of climbing—Mr. Whymper’s experience—Mr. +Graham’s experience—The ascent of great heights—Mr. +Grove’s views—Messrs. Coxwell and Glaisher’s balloon +experiences—Reasons for dissenting from Mr. Glaisher’s +views—The possibility of ascending Mount Everest—Physiological +aspect of the question—Acclimatisation to great +heights—The direction in which mountaineering should be +developed—The results that may be obtained—Chamouni a +century hence—A Rip van Winkle in the Pennine Alps—The +dangers of mountaineering—Conclusion</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg300">300</ref></cell> + </row> + </table> + <milestone unit="tb" rend="rule: 15%"/> + <table rend="tblcolumns:'lw(52m) r'; latexcolumns:'p{6cm}r'"> + <row> + <cell rend="center" cols="2"><hi rend="font-size: large">ILLUSTRATIONS</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>The Bietschhorn from the Petersgrat</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><hi rend='italic'><ref target="Pgii">Frontispiece</ref></hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>The Aiguille du Dru from the South</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig169"><hi rend='italic'>to face page</hi> 169</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>A Vision on a Summit</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig282">" 282</ref></cell> + </row> + </table> + + </div> +</front> +<body rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb n='1'/><anchor id='Pg001'/> +<p rend="center"><hi rend="font-size: xx-large">ABOVE THE SNOW LINE</hi></p> + + <div type="chapter" n="1"> +<index index="toc" level1="I. An expedition in the olden style"/> +<index index="pdf" level1="I. An expedition in the olden style"/> +<head>CHAPTER I.</head> + +<head type="sub">AN EXPEDITION IN THE OLDEN STYLE</head> + +<argument><p> +Buried records—<hi rend='italic'>Litera scripta manet</hi>—The survival of the unfit—A +literary octopus—Sybaritic mountaineering—On mountain +<q>form</q>—Lessons to be learned in the Alps—The growth and +spread of the climbing craze—Variations of the art—A tropical +day in the valley—A deserted hostelry—The hotel staff appears +in several characters—Ascent of the Balfrinhorn—Our baggage +train and transport department—A well-ventilated shelter—On +sleeping out: its advantages on the present occasion—The Mischabelhörner +family group—A plea for Saas and the Fée plateau—We +attack the Südlenzspitz—The art of detecting hidden +crevasses—Plans for the future—Sentiment on a summit—The +feast is spread—The Alphubeljoch—We meet our warmest +welcome at an inn. +</p></argument> + +<p> +There exists a class of generously-minded folk who +display a desire to improve their fellow-creatures +and a love for their species, by referring pointedly to +others for the purpose of mentioning that the objects +of their remarks have never been guilty of certain +enormities: a critical process, which is about equivalent +to tarring an individual, but, from humanitarian +considerations, omitting to feather him also. The +<pb n='2'/><anchor id='Pg002'/>ordeal, as applied to others, is unwarrantable; but +there is a certain odd pleasure in subjecting oneself +to it. Now, it is but a paraphrase to say that the +more we go about, the more, in all probability, shall +we be strengthened in the conviction that the paradise +of fools must have a large acreage. The average +Briton has a constantly present dread that he is likely +to do something to justify his admission into that +department of Elysium. The thought that he has +so qualified, will wake him up if it crosses his mind +even in a dream, or make his blood run cold—whatever +that may mean—in his active state. Thus it +falls out that he is for ever, as it were, conning over +the pass-book of his actions, and marvelling how +few entries he can find on the credit side, as he +does so. It is asserted as a fact (and it were hard +to gainsay the sentiment), that <hi rend='italic'>Litera scripta manet</hi>. +No doubt; but how much more obtrusively true is it +that printed matter is as indestructible as the Hydra? +It has occurred sometimes to the writer, on very, +very sleepless nights, to take down from a shelf, to +slap the cover in order to get rid of a considerable +amount of dust, and to peruse, in a volume well-known +to all members of the Alpine Club, accounts written +years before, of early mountain expeditions. To trace +in some such way, at any rate to search for, indications +of a fancied development of mind has a curious +fascination for the solitary man. Effusions which an +<pb n='3'/><anchor id='Pg003'/>author would jealously hide away from the eyes of his +friends, have a strangely absorbing interest to the +man who reflects that he himself was their perpetrator. +</p> + +<note place="margin">The survival of the unfit</note> + +<p> +We most of us, whatever principles we assert on the +matter, keep stowed away, in some corner or another, +the overflow of a fancied talent. The form varies: +it may, perhaps, be a five act tragedy, possibly a +psychological disquisition, or a sensational novel in +three volumes of MS. It is a satisfaction to turn +such treasures out from time to time when no eyes +are upon us, even if it be only to thank Heaven +devoutly that they have always lain unknown and +uncriticised. <q>Il n’y a rien qui rafraichisse le sang +comme d’avoir su éviter de faire une sottise.</q> Of +work done, of which the author had no especial +reason to be proud, a feeling of thankfulness in a +lesser degree may arise from the consciousness that, +if ever recognised at all, it is now, happily, forgotten. +So have these early effusions sometimes amused, +not infrequently astounded, and at the worst have +nearly always brought the wished-for slumber; and +yet in Alpine writings the same accounts were for +the most part as faithful representations as the writer +could set down on paper of impressions made at +the time. It has often occurred to me to ask what +manner of description a writer would give of an +expedition made many years before. How would the +lapse of time influence him? Would he make light +<pb n='4'/><anchor id='Pg004'/>of whatever danger there was? Would the picture +require a very decided coat of varnish to make it at +all recognisable? Would the crudities come out still +more strongly, or would the colours all have faded +and sunk harmoniously together in his picture? The +speculation promised to be interesting enough to +make it worth while to give practical effect to the +idea. Now the expedition narrated in this chapter +was made in 1870, and possibly, therefore, if a description +were worth giving at all, it had better have +been given fresh. We can always find some proverb +tending more or less to justify any course of action +that we may be desirous of pursuing, and by distorting +the meaning of a quotation manage to serve our own +ends. Of all the ill-used remarks of this nature, surely +the most often employed is, <q>Better late than never;</q> +the extreme elasticity of which saying, in the application +thereof, is well evidenced by the doctor who +employed it in justification of his late arrival when he +came on a professional visit to the lady and found the +baby learning its alphabet. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Sybaritic mountaineering</note> + +<p> +When an aquarium was a fashionable resort, +amongst a good many queer and loose fish, we became +familiar with a monstrously ill-favoured beast +called a cuttle-fish: and may have had a chance of +seeing how the animal, if attacked by his physical +superior, resorted to the ingenious plan of effusing +a quantity of ink, and, under cover of this, retreating +<pb n='5'/><anchor id='Pg005'/>hastily backwards out of harm’s way. There are +some, less ingenuous than the Octopus, who retreat +first into obscurity and then pour out their effusion of +ink. But it is more common to use the flare of an +epigram or of a proverb, as a conjurer does his wand, +to distract attention for the moment and divert the +thought current from matters we do not wish to be +too evident. At any rate, I must in the present instance +lay under tribute the author of Proverbs, and +add another straw to the already portentous burden +that they who wish to compound for literary sins have +already piled on his back. Apologising is, however, a +dangerous vice, as a well-known writer has remarked. +The account, though a sort of literary congenital +cripple, has still a prescriptive right to live. Besides +this expedition was undertaken in the pre-Sybaritic age +of mountaineering, and before the later refinements of +that art and science had taken firm hold of its +votaries. What would the stern explorers of former +time have thought, or said, if they had perceived +persons engaged on the glaciers sitting down on camp-stools +to a light refection of truffle pie and cold punch? +Such banquets are not uncommon now, though precisians +with a tendency to dyspepsia still object +strongly to them. In those days, too, mountaineers +were not so much differentiated that climbers were +talked of by their fellows like cricketers are described +in the book of Lillywhite. <q>Jones,</q> for instance, <q>is a +<pb n='6'/><anchor id='Pg006'/>brilliant cragsman, but inclined to be careless on +moraines.</q> <q>Noakes,</q> again, <q>remarkably sure and steady +on snow, fairly good in a couloir, would do better if he +did not possess such an astounding appetite and would +pay more attention to the use of the rope.</q> <q>Stokes +possesses remarkable knowledge of the Alps; on rocks +climbs with his head; we wish we could say honestly +that he can climb at all with his hands and feet.</q> +<q>Thompson, first-rate step-cutter; walks on snow with +the graceful gait and unlaboured action of a shrimp-catcher +at his work: kicks down every loose stone he +touches.</q> Thus different styles of climbing are recognised. +<q>Form,</q> as it is called in climbing, was in the +old days an unknown term, and yet it is probable that +the <q>form</q> was by no means inferior to any that can +be shown now-a-days. The reason is obvious enough +and the explanation lies simply in the fact that the +apprenticeship served in the mountains was then +much longer than it is now. People did not so often +try to ride a steeple-chase before they had learnt to +sit in a saddle, or appreciated that the near side was +the best by which to get up. When this particular +expedition was made (towards which I feel that I am +an unconscionable time in making a start) I had been +five or six seasons in the Alps, during the first two of +which I had never set foot on a snow-slope. There +had always seemed to me from the first, to be so much +absolutely to learn in mountaineering: there is no +<pb n='7'/><anchor id='Pg007'/>less now, indeed there is more, for the science has +been developed, but it seems beyond doubt, that fewer +people recognise the fact. Like most other arts, it +can only be learnt in one way, by constant practice, by +constant care and attention and by always doing everything +in the mountains to the best of one’s ability. +Too many may seem to think that there is a royal +road, and fail to recognise that a plebeian does not alter +his status by walking along this variety of highway. +</p> + +<note place="margin">The growth of the climbing craze</note> + +<p> +Time rolled on. The fascination of climbing +spread abroad, and it followed with the increasing +number of mountaineers that more and more difficulties +were experienced in attempts to diversify the +sport in the Alps alone, and in emerging from the +common herd of climbers. Then a new danger arose. +The sport grew fashionable—a serious symptom to +its true lovers. Books of Alpine adventure readily +found readers; novels, and other forms of nonsense, +were written about the mountains; accounts of new +expeditions were telegraphed at once to all parts of +the world, and found as important a place in the +newspapers as the Derby betting, or the latest reports +as to the precise medical details of some eminent person’s +internal complaint. Still further did the craving +for novelty spread, and more strange did the means of +satisfying it become. The mountains were ascended +without guides: in winter; by people afflicted with +mental aberration who wore tall hats and frock coats +<pb n='8'/><anchor id='Pg008'/>on the glaciers; by persons who were ignorant of the +laws of optics as applied to large telescopes; in bad +weather, by wrong routes and so forth. Then, too, +set in what may be called the variation craze. This +is very infectious. For those who can see no beauty in +a scene that some one else has gazed on before it is +still a passion. We may still at times, in the Alps, +hear people say, <q>Oh yes, that is a very fine expedition, +no doubt, but I don’t think I care much about +undertaking it; you see so and so has done it; +couldn’t we manage to strike out a different line?</q> +The result is a <q>variation</q> expedition. The composer +when hard driven, and not strongly under the influence +of the Muse, will at times take some innocent, +simple melody and submit it to exquisite torture by +writing what he is pleased to call variations. Sometimes +he will not rest till he has perpetrated as many +as thirty-two on some innocent little tune of our +childhood. The original air becomes entirely lost, +like a sixpence buried in a flour bag, and we may +marvel, for instance, as may the travelled American, +at the immense amount of foreign matter that may be +introduced into <q>Home, sweet home.</q> Even so does +the climber sometimes practise his art. But for one +who entertains a strict respect for the old order of +things, and for the memory of an age of mountaineering +now rapidly passing into oblivion, to write in any +such strain would be intolerable. And so, even as a +<pb n='9'/><anchor id='Pg009'/>theatrical manager when his brilliant play, stolen, or, +as it is generally described, <q>adapted,</q> from the French, +does not run, I may be allowed to raise the curtain on +a revival of the old drama, a comedy in one short +act, and not provided with any very thrilling <q>situations.</q> +The <q>scenarium</q> lay ready to hand in the +leaves of an old journal, which may possibly share, +with other old leaves, the property of being rather +dry. But we are meandering, as it were, in the +valleys, and run some risk of digressing too far from +the path which should lead to the mountain in hand. +There is a story of a clergyman who selected a rather +long text as a preface to his discourse, and finding, +when he had read it at length a second time, that his +congregation were mostly disposed in attitudes which +might be of attention, but which were, at the same +time, suggestive of slumber, wisely concluded to defer +enlarging upon it till a more fitting occasion, and dismissed +his hearers, or at any rate those present, with +the remark that they had heard his text and that he +would not presume to mar its effectiveness by any +exordium upon it. <hi rend='italic'>Revenons.</hi> +</p> + +<note place="margin">A tropical day in the valley</note> + +<p> +In the early part of August 1870, our party walked +one sultry day up the Saas Valley. The dust glittered +thick and yellow on our boots. Many of the smaller +brooks had struck work altogether, while the main +river was reduced to a clear stream trickling lazily +down between sloping banks of rounded white boulders +<pb n='10'/><anchor id='Pg010'/>that shone with a painful glare in the strong sunlight. +The more muscular of the grasshoppers found their +limbs so lissom in the warmth that they achieved the +most prodigious leaps out of sheer lightheartedness; +for they sprang so far that they could have had no +definite idea where they might chance to light. On +the stone walls busy little lizards, with heaving flanks, +scurried about with little fitful spurts, and vanished +abruptly into the crannies, perpetually playing hide +and seek with each other, and always seeming out of +breath. The foliage drooped motionless in the heavy +air and the shadows it cast lengthened along the dusty +ground as steadily as the streak on a sundial. The +smoke from the guides’ pipes (and guides, like itinerant +nigger minstrels, always have pipes in their mouths +when moving from the scene of one performance to +another) hung in mid air, and the vile choking smell +of the sputtering lucifer matches was perceptible when +the laggards reached the spot where a man a hundred +yards ahead had lighted one of these abominations. +</p> + +<p> +To pass under the shade of a walnut tree was refreshing +like a cold douche; and to step forth again +into the heat and glare made one almost gasp. +Flannel shirts were miserably inadequate to the strain +put upon their absorbent qualities. The potatoes and +cabbages were white and piteously dusty. Even the +pumpkins seemed to be trying to bury their plump +forms in the cool recesses of the earth. Everywhere +<pb n='11'/><anchor id='Pg011'/>there seemed a consciousness as of a heavy droning +hum. All of which may be concisely summed up in +the now classical opening remark of a well-known +comedy character, one <q>Perkyn Middlewick</q> to wit, +<q>It’s ’ot.</q> +</p> + +<note place="margin">A deserted hostelry</note> + +<p> +When within a little distance of the hotel I enquired +whether it was worth while for one of the +party to push on to secure rooms. The guides thought, +on the whole, that it was unnecessary, and this opinion +was justified subsequently by the fact that we found +ourselves the sole occupants of the hotel during the +week or so that we remained in the district. It was +the year of the war; ugly rumours were about, but +very few tourists. Selecting, therefore, the most +luxurious apartment, and having given over to the care +of one Franz, who appeared in the character of <q>boots</q> +to the hotel, a remarkable pair of cowhide brogues of +original design, as hard as sabots and much more uncomfortable, +I sat down on a stone slab, in order to +cool down to a temperature that might permit of dining +without fear of imperilling digestion. So pleased were +the hotel authorities at the presence of a traveller that +they exerted themselves to the utmost to entertain +us well, and with remarkable results. I find a record +of the dinner served. There were ten dishes in consecutive +order, exclusive of what Americans term <q>fixings.</q> +As to the nature of nine it was difficult to speak with +any degree of certainty, but the tenth was apparently +<pb n='12'/><anchor id='Pg012'/>a blackbird that had perished of starvation and whose +attenuated form the chef had bulged out with extraneous +matter. Franz, who seemed to be a sort of +general utility man to the establishment, had thrown +off, with the ease of a Gomersal or a Ducrow, the outward +habiliments of a boots and appeared now as a +waiter, in a shirt so hard and starched that he was +unable to bend and could only button his waistcoat by +the sense of touch. The repast over, Franz removed +the shirt front and unbent thereupon in manner as in +person. Assuming engaging airs, he entered into +conversation, disappearing however for short intervals +at times, in order, as might be inferred from certain +sounds proceeding from an adjoining apartment, to +discharge the duties of a chamber-maid. Subsequently +it transpired that he was the proprietor of the hotel. +</p> + +<note place="margin">The hut above Fée</note> + +<p> +We agreed to commence our mountaineering by an +ascent of the Balfrinhorn, a most charming walk +and one which even in those days was considered a +gentle climb. There are few peaks about this district +which will better repay the climber of moderately high +ambition, and it is possible to complete the expedition +without retracing the steps. There is no danger, and +it is hard to say to what part of the mountain an +enthusiast would have to go in order to discover any: +so the expedition, though perhaps prosaic, is still very +interesting throughout and quite in the olden style. +The solitude at the hotel was somewhat dull, and the +<pb n='13'/><anchor id='Pg013'/>conversational powers of the guides soon exhausted if +we travelled beyond the subject of chamois hunting, I +did indeed try on one occasion to explain to them, in +answer to an earnest request, the military system of +Great Britain. But, with a limited vocabulary, the +task was not easy and, as I could not think of any +words to express what was meant by red tape, circumlocution, +and short service, my exposition was limited +to enlarging on the facts that the warriors of my +native country were exceeding valiant folk with very +fine chests, that they wore highly padded red coats +and little hats like half bonbon boxes cocked on one +side and that they would never consent to be slaves. +Burgener, anxious for some more stirring expedition, +suggested that we should climb the Dom from the +Saas side or make a first ascent of the Südlenzspitz. +We had often talked of the former expedition, which +had not at the time been achieved, and, in order to +facilitate its accomplishment, divers small grants of +money had been sent out from England to be expended +in the construction of a hut some five hours’ walk +above Fée. In answer to enquiries, the guides reported +with no small amount of pride, that the building +had been satisfactorily completed and they were +of opinion that it was ready for occupation. At some +length the process of building was described and it +really seemed from their account that they had caused +to be erected a shelter of unduly pretentious +dimen<pb n='14'/><anchor id='Pg014'/>sions. It appeared, however, that the residence was +equally well placed to serve as a shelter for an ascent +of the Südlenzspitz and we decided ultimately to +attack that peak first. Great preparations were +made; an extensive assortment of very inferior +blankets was produced and spread out in the road in +front of the hotel, either for airing or some other ill-defined +purpose, possibly from some natural pride in +the extensive resources of the hotel. Then they pulled +down and piled into a little stack, opposite the front +door, fire wood enough to roast an ox, or convert an +enthusiast into a saint. +</p> + +<note place="margin">How ruin seized a roofless thing</note> + +<p> +One fine afternoon we started. The entire staff and +<hi rend='italic'>personnel</hi> of the hotel would have turned out to wish +us good luck, but did not actually do so, as he was +engaged in a back shed milking a cow. Laden with a +large bundle of fire wood, I toiled up the steep grass +slopes above Fée, leading to the Hochbalm glacier. +The day was oppressively hot, and I was not wholly +ungrateful on finding that the string round my bundle +was loose and that the sticks dropped out one after +another: accordingly I selected a place in the extreme +rear of the caravan, lest my delinquencies should perchance +be observed. The sun beat mercilessly down +upon our backs on these bare slopes and we sighed +involuntarily for Vallombrosa or Monaco or some +equally shady place. The guides, who up to that time +had spoken of their building as if it were of somewhat +<pb n='15'/><anchor id='Pg015'/>palatial dimensions, now began rather to disparage +the construction. Doubts were expressed as to the +effects certain storms and heavy falls of snow might +have had on it and regrets that the weather had +prevented the builders from attending as minutely to +details of finish and decoration as they could have +wished. Putting this and that together, I came to +the conclusion that the erection would probably be +found to display but indifferent architectural merit. +However, there was nothing better to look forward to. +<q>Where is it?</q> <q>Oh, right up there, under the big +cliff, close to where Alexander is.</q> In the dim distance +could be distinguished the form of our guide as +a little dark mass progressing on two pink flesh-coloured +streaks, striding rapidly up the hill. The +phenomenon of colour was due to the fact that, +prompted by the sultriness of the day, Alexander had +adopted in his garb a temporary variation of the +Highland costume. A few minutes later he joined us, +clothed indeed, and in a right, but still a melancholy +frame of mind. Shaking his head sadly, he explained +that a grievous disaster had taken place, evidently in +the spring. The forebodings of the constructively-minded +rustics we had left below, who knew about as +much of architecture as they did of metaphysics, +proved now to be true. They had remarked that they +feared lest some chance stone should have fallen, and +possibly have inflicted damage on the hut. Why they +<pb n='16'/><anchor id='Pg016'/>had selected a site where such an accident might +happen, was not at the moment quite obvious, but it +became so later on. Burgener told us that the roof +had been carried away. Beyond question the roof +was gone; at any rate it was not there, and the rock +must have fallen in a remarkable way indeed, for the +cliff above was slightly overhanging, and the falling +boulder, which was held accountable for the disaster, +had carried away every vestige of wood-work about +the place, not leaving even a splinter or a chip. +However, to the credit of the builders, be it said that +they had tidied up and swept very nicely, for there +was no sawdust to be seen anywhere, nor indeed, any +trace of carpentering work. The hut consequently +resolved itself into a semi-circular stone wall, very +much out of the perpendicular, built against a rock +face. The chief architect, evidently a thoughtful +person, had not omitted to leave a door. But it was +easier on the whole to step over the wall, which I did, +with as much scorn as Remus himself could have +thrown into the action when seeking to aggravate his +brother Romulus. So we entered into possession of +the premises without, at any rate, the trouble of any +preliminary legal formalities. +</p> + +<note place="margin">On sleeping out</note> + +<p> +In the matter of sleeping out, all mountaineers +pass, provided they keep long enough at it, through +three stages. In the early period, when imbued with +what has been poetically termed the <q>ecstatic alacrity</q> +<pb n='17'/><anchor id='Pg017'/>of youth, they burn with a desire to undergo hardship +on mountains. Possibly a craving for sympathy +in discomfort—that most universal of human attributes—prompts +them to spend their nights in the +most unsuitable places for repose. The practical +carrying out of this tendency is apt to freeze very +literally their ardour; at least, it did so in our case. +Then follows a period during which the climber laughs +to scorn any idea of dividing his mountain expedition. +He starts the moment after midnight and plods along +with a gait as free and elastic as that of a stage +pilgrim or a competitor in a six days’ <q>go-as-you-please</q> +pedestrian contest: for those who have a certain +gift of somnambulism this method has its advantages. +Finally comes a stage when the climber’s one +thought is to get all the enjoyment possible out of his +expedition and to get it in the way that seems best +at the time. Now again he may be found at times +tenanting huts, or the forms of shelter which are +supposed to represent them. But his manner is +changed; he no longer travels burdened with the impedimenta +of his earlier days. He never looks at his +watch now, except to ascertain the utmost limit of +time he can dwell on a view. With advancing years +and increasing Alpine wisdom, he derides the idea of +accurately timing an expedition. His pedometer is +probably left at home; he eats whenever he is hungry, +and ceases to consider it a <hi rend='italic'>sine quâ non</hi> that he must +<pb n='18'/><anchor id='Pg018'/>return to hotel quarters in time for dinner. Nor does +he ever commit the youthful folly of walking at the +rate of five miles an hour along the mule path in the +valley or the high road at the end of an expedition, +gaining thereby sore feet and absolutely nothing else. +When he has reached this stage, however, he is considered +<hi rend='italic'>passé</hi>; and when he has reached this stage +he probably begins really to appreciate to the full the +depth of the charm to be found in mountaineering. +</p> + +<p> +But I digress even as the driven pig. A miserable +night did we spend behind the stone wall. About +9 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> came a furious hail-storm: at 10 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> rain fell +heavily: at 11 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> snow began and went on till daybreak +about 4 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> At 5 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> we got up quite stiff +and stark like a recently killed villain of melodrama, +when carried off the stage by four supers. By 6 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> +I had got into my boots. At 9 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> we swooped down +once more on Franz at the hotel at Saas, persuaded +him to relinquish certain scavenging occupations in +which he was engaged, and to resume his post of +waiter. A day or two later we sought our shelter +once more. No luxurious provisions did we take with +us. Some remarkable red wine, so sour that it forced +one involuntarily to turn the head round over the +shoulder on drinking it, filled one knapsack. The +other contained slices of bread with parallel strata of +a greasy nature intervening. These were spoken of, +when we had occasion to allude to them, as +sand<pb n='19'/><anchor id='Pg019'/>wiches. The fat was found to be an excellent +emollient to my boots. +</p> + +<note place="margin">The Südlenzspitz</note> + +<p> +The Südlenzspitz, though tall, labours under the +topographical disadvantage of being placed in the +company of giants. Close by, on the north side, is +the Nadelhorn (14,876 ft.), while to the south, at no +great distance, the Dom towers far above, reaching +a height of 14,942 feet. In the Federal map of +Switzerland (which is not very accurate in its delineation +of the Saas district), the height of the +Südlenzspitz is marked as 14,108 ft. North and south +from the Südlenzspitz, stretch away well-marked, +but not particularly sharp ridges, the northern being +chiefly of snow, and inclined at a moderate angle. +To the east, a sharper rocky ridge falls away, terminating +below, after the fashion of a <q>rational</q> +divided skirt, in two undecided continuations which +enclosed the Fall glacier. Climbing up by this ridge, +Mr. W. W. Graham ascended the mountain in 1882. +The <q>variation</q> is described as presenting very serious +difficulties. But in our day, the old-fashioned custom +of ascending mountains by the most obviously practicable +way was still in vogue, and we decided, therefore, +to make for the northern buttress. Leaping +over the wall enclosing the ground-floor of our bivouac, +we descended on to the Hochbalm glacier, made our +way across the upper snow basin, and in good time +reached the foot of the slope no great distance south +<pb n='20'/><anchor id='Pg020'/>of the Nadelhorn. The view during this part of the +walk is very characteristic of the range. From almost +any point of view, the traveller is surrounded on three +sides by a clearly marked amphitheatre of very beautifully +formed mountains. On the right, the shapely +little Ulrichshorn rises up in a self-sufficient manner, +like a single artichoke in a vegetable dish. In front +is the mass of the Nadelhorn and Südlenzspitz, while, +looking back, the view of the mountains on the east +side of the Saas valley is one of great and varied +beauty. It must be confessed that these statements +are derived principally from a contemplation of the +map, for, to tell the truth, the recollection of the +panorama we actually saw is rather indistinct. This +much, however, I may record with confidence; that in +all parts of the Saas district, the views struck me, +in a day when I did not very much look at them, +as possessing strong individuality and the greatest +beauty. +</p> + +<note place="margin">A plea for Saas and Fée</note> + +<p> +The Zermatt district may be still more striking, +and they who have no time to visit both, no doubt do +wisely to seek the more hackneyed valley. But for +such as do not look upon guide-book statements as +the dicta of an autocrat, and can exercise a thousandth +part of the independence of judgment they manifest +in the ordinary affairs of life, a brief deviation to the +Saas country will come as a revelation. After the +crowd, dust, and bustle of the highway to the +re<pb n='21'/><anchor id='Pg021'/>cognised centre of the Alps, to turn aside to this +region is a relief, like stepping out of a crowded ball-room +on to a verandah, or gliding away in a gondola +from the railway station at Venice. Look, too, at +the architecture of the great mountains here, and the +spectator will perceive how nature has succeeded to +perfection in achieving what all artists fail in doing; +that is in designing, and in a manner that precludes +criticism, a pendant; and a pendant too to the Zermatt +panorama. The necessary object in the foreground +of the picture—which we all know to be an +hotel—is provided. Who but nature would think of +framing a pure white picture in a setting of the soft +green pastures below, and the deep blue sky above? +but here it is, and it is perfect. Yet the blue of the +sky is repeated in the picture, for the towering séracs +throw azure shadows on the satin-smooth snow slopes +at their feet. Rest, strength, eternal solidity above in +the mountain forms and crags; repose, softness, and +the charm of a brightness below that must yield and +fade before long to gather force for fresh development +and renewal. No need to seek far for a parallel in our +human world. Between the two districts, Zermatt and +Saas-Fée, there is but the difference between the man +who impresses at once by the force of character, and +the man who has to be studied and learned before we +recognise that he is something beyond the ordinary +run of our fellow-creatures. +</p> + +<pb n='22'/><anchor id='Pg022'/> +<note place="margin">We attack the Südlenzspitz</note> +<p> +Before leaving England we had made tolerably +minute inquiries, but had failed to discover any record +of a previous ascent of the Südlenzspitz, though, as +suggested by Mr. W. M. Conway, the mountain may +have been previously climbed by Mr. Chapman. Some +uncertainty, therefore, whether we should find any +traces of previous climbers, gave the required piquancy +to the expedition. We made at once up the slope +for a long rocky buttress, and towards a part of the +mountain down which the guides asserted stones had +been known to fall in the afternoon. This statement +was probably made with a view of encouraging their +charge to greater exertions, for an old sprained ankle +compelled me to the continual necessity of putting my +best foot foremost in walking over difficult places. +Still, the rocks were at no point very formidable, and +progress was rendered somewhat easier by the fact +that no critical companion was with me, so I felt at +perfect liberty to transport myself upwards in any +style that happened to suit the exigencies of the +moment. I had not at that time quite passed the +stage of believing all that the guides asserted with +reference to the climbing capacities of the individual +who pays them for assisting his locomotion, and had +a distinct idea that I mastered all the obstacles in a +particularly skilful manner. They said as much in +fact, but reiterated their compliments so often that I +somewhat fear now that I must frequently have given +<pb n='23'/><anchor id='Pg023'/>occasion for these remarks of approbation; remarks +which I have since observed are more frequently called +forth to cover a blunder than to praise an exhibition of +science. Probably my progress was about as graceful +and sure as that of a weak-legged puppy placed for the +first time in its life on a frozen pond, or a cockroach +seeking to escape from the entrapping basin, for I had +not then developed, in climbing rocks, the adhesive +powers of—say the chest, which longer practice will +sometimes furnish. We were accompanied by a +porter of advanced years whose conversational powers +were limited by an odd practice of carrying heavy +parcels in his mouth. The day before he had carried +up a large beam of wood for the camp fire in this +manner. I never met a man with so much jaw and +so little talk. He had apparently come out in order +to practise himself for the mastication of the Saas +mutton, for at the end of the day he would accept of +nothing but a sum of two francs, for which I was very +thankful. Similar disinterestedness in men of his +class is not often met with nowadays. +</p> +<note place="margin">The art of probing snow</note> +<p> +After awhile we left the buttress of rock and turned +our attention to a snow slope and made our way up its +crest. Here steps were necessary but there was no +particular difficulty, for the slope resembled a modern +French drawing-room tragedy, in that it was as broad +as it was long. We had but to feel that the rope was +taut, and could then look about with security. In good +<pb n='24'/><anchor id='Pg024'/>time we stepped on to the ridge, and a glance upwards +showed that the way was easy enough. We could not +but feel that if we were to achieve the honour of a +first ascent, such honour would be principally due to +the fact that we had subdivided the secondary peaks +of the chain more minutely than other travellers. +The principle has been carried still further in these +latter days, and as any little pale fish that can be +caught and fried is considered whitebait, and any +article that ladies choose to attach to their heads is +termed a bonnet, so any point that can be climbed by +an individual line of ascent is now held to be a separate +mountain. A considerable snow cornice hung +over on the northern side of the arête and great care +was necessary, for the ridge itself was so broad and +easy, that less careful guides might have made light +of it; but Burgener, though he had already acquired +a reputation for brilliancy and dash, never suffered +himself for one moment to lose sight of the two great +qualities in a guide, caution and thoroughness. At +each step he probed the snow in front of him with all +the diligence of a chiffonnier. It followed that our +progress was somewhat slow, but it was none the less +highly instructive. The accurate sense of touch in +probing doubtful snow with the axe requires and +deserves very much more practice than most people +would imagine. The unpractised mountaineer may +climb with more or less ease a difficult rock the first +<pb n='25'/><anchor id='Pg025'/>time he is brought face to face with it, but long and +carefully acquired experience is necessary before a +man can estimate with certainty the bearing power +of a snow bridge with a single thrust of the axe. +Indeed many guides of reputation either do not possess +or never acquire the muscular sense necessary to +enable them to form a reliable opinion on this matter. +As a rule, if the rope be properly used and such a +mistake be made, somebody plunges through, is hauled +out again and no harm is done; but there are occasions +when serious accidents have happened, when probably +lives have been lost owing to want of skilled +knowledge in this detail of snow mountaineering. I +have known guides who never failed when they came +to a treacherous-looking bridge, to give it one apparently +careless thrust with the axe and then walk +across with perfect confidence; and I have seen +others do exactly the same and disappear suddenly +to cool regions below through the bridge; and <hi rend='italic'>vice +versâ</hi>. The unskilful prober will make wide detours +when he might go in safety, and the man of good +snow touch will avoid what looks sound enough: till +in returning, perhaps you see that the hard crust concealed +but rotten things beneath: as in an ill-made +dumpling. It needs no small amount of training +to judge between the man who quickly and with +certainty satisfies himself of the safety of a particular +snow passage, and the man who is too careless +<pb n='26'/><anchor id='Pg026'/>properly to investigate it; yet without such experience +the amateur is not really able to decide whether a +guide be a good or a bad one. +</p> +<note place="margin">Sentiment on a summit</note> +<p> +Here and there along the ridge short rock passages +gave a welcome relief and at length we stood on +the highest point of the ridge which culminates so +gently in the actual peak of the Südlenzspitz. Our +first care was to scrape about and hunt diligently for +traces of any previous party. No relic of conviviality +could be found, and as all the flat stones about +appeared to be in their natural state of disorder, we +piled up some of them into a neat little heap, and +came to the conclusion that we had performed very +doughty deeds. But we were younger then. The +sun was out, there was a dead calm, and we lay +for a while basking in the warmth and planning a +serious expedition for some future year. It may seem +strange in these days of rocket-like mountaineering +when the climber, like the poet, <hi rend='italic'>nascitur non fit</hi>, but +the peak whose assault we discussed was none other +than the Matterhorn. It was no longer thought +that goblins and elves tenanted its crags; but although +these spectres had not yet been frightened away and +turned out of house and home by sardine boxes and +broken bottles, some trace of prestige still adhered to +the mountain. It had not then, like a galley slave, +been bound with chains, or, even as a trussed chicken, +girt about with many cords. Nor was the ascent of +<pb n='27'/><anchor id='Pg027'/>the peak then talked about as carelessly as might be +a walk along Margate pier. Alexander Burgener had +never been up the peak, though he was most anxious +to get an opportunity of doing so. I can remember +well the advice that was given to me on the top of the +Südlenzspitz to practise further on a few less formidable +mountains before attacking the fascinating Mont +Cervin itself. Alas for the old days and the old style +of mountaineering! It may be doubted whether such +discussions often take place nowadays; but then it +was only my sixth season in the Alps. The following +year we did hatch out the project laid on the top of +the Südlenzspitz to climb the Matterhorn together. +To this moment I can remember as I write every +detail of the climb and every incident of the day as +vividly as if it were yesterday; and what a splendid +expedition it was then. The old, old fascination can +never come back again in quite the same colours; +better, perhaps, that it should not. Is it always true +that <q>a sorrow’s crown of sorrow is remembering +happier things</q>? Surely there is a keenness and a +depth of pleasure to be found in recalling happiness, +though it may never return in its old form; and the +memory of pleasure just toned with a trace of sadness +is one of the most profound emotions that can stir the +human heart. Go on and climb the Alps ye that +follow: nowhere else will you find the same pleasure. +But it is changed, and in this amusement the old +<pb n='28'/><anchor id='Pg028'/>fascination will never be quite the same to you. It +may be, it will be, equally keen, but as there is a +difference between skating on virgin ice and that which, +though still good, is scored by marks of predecessors, +so will you fail to find a something which in the olden +days of mountaineering seemed always present. Go +elsewhere if you will, and seek fresh fields for mountaineering +enterprise in the Caucasus, the Himalayas, +the Andes. There you will find the mountains have +a charm of their own: the mark is as good, but it is +not the Alpine mark. That has been taken by others. +<hi rend='italic'>Beati possidentes.</hi> +</p> +<note place="margin">The feast is spread</note> +<p> +Judging by the nature of these sentiments it would +seem that we must have become pensive to the verge +of slumber while on the summit. In descending, we +followed our morning’s tracks, and scorning the +seductive shelter of the hut made straight down for +the hotel. On this occasion we found Franz, who was +a man of varied resources and accomplishments, +hanging his shirt, which apparently he had just +washed, up to dry. Our unexpected arrival appeared +to disconcert him a little, for the straitened nature of +his wardrobe precluded him, to his great disappointment, +from appearing at dinner in full costume. He +conceived, however, an ingenious, though somewhat +transparent subterfuge, and made believe that he had +got a bad cold in the chest which compelled him to +button his coat up tight round the neck. In honour +<pb n='29'/><anchor id='Pg029'/>of our achievements he said he would go down to the +cellar and bring us up a curious old wine. The cellar +consisted apparently of a packing-case in a shed. Old +the wine may have been; curious it certainly was, for +it possessed a strong heathery flavour and seemed to +turn hot very suddenly and stick fast in the throat +like champagne at a suburban charity ball. But +nevertheless, with the remnants of the blackbird or +some other <hi rend='italic'>rara avis</hi> made into a species of pie, we +feasted royally. +</p> + +<p> +A few days later we crossed over to Zermatt by +the Alphubel Joch, a heavy fall of snow having prevented +any idea of making our contemplated assault +on the Dom. A Swiss gentleman of a lively nature +and excessive loquacity accompanied us. He was not +an adroit snow walker, and disappeared on some five +or six occasions abruptly into crevasses. The moment, +however, that he got his head out again, he resumed +his narrative at the exact point at which it had been +perforce broken off without exhibiting the least discomposure. +The subject to which his remarks referred +I did not succeed in ascertaining. We parted at a +little chalet not far from the Riffel, leaving our friend +lying flat on his back on the grass contemplating the sky +with a fixed expression, with his hands folded over his +waistcoat. He may have been a poet inspired with +a sudden desire for composition for aught I know, or +may have assumed this attitude as likely to facilitate +<pb n='30'/><anchor id='Pg030'/>the absorption of a prodigious quantity of milk which +he took at the chalet. +</p> + +<p> +As we drew nearer to the odd mixture of highly +coloured huts and comfortable hotels that make up +the village of Zermatt, a sense of returning home +crept over the mind, a consciousness of friends at +hand, of warm welcomes, mixed with the half presentiment +that is always felt on such occasions, that +some change would be found; but happily it was not +so. The roadway was in its former state; the cobble +stones a trifle more irregular and worn more smooth, +but still the same. The same guides, or their prototypes, +were sitting on the same wall drumming their +heels. The same artist was hard at work on a sketch +of the Matterhorn in a field hard by. The same party +just returning from the Görner Grat. The same +man looking out with sun-scorched face from the salon +window and the same click from the self-willed billiard +balls on the uncertain table below. Ay, and the same +unmistakable heartfelt greetings and handshakings at +the door of the Monte Rosa. Churlish indeed should +we have been if we had sighed to think that we had +met our warmest welcome at an inn. +</p> + +</div><div type="chapter" n="2" rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb n='31'/><anchor id='Pg031'/> +<index index="toc" level1="II. The Rothhorn (Moming) from Zermatt"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="II. The Rothhorn (Moming) from Zermatt"/> +<head>CHAPTER II.</head> + +<head type="sub">THE ROTHHORN (MOMING) FROM ZERMATT</head> + +<argument><p> +The Alpine dramatis personæ—Mountaineering fact and romance—The +thirst for novelty and its symptoms—The first ascent of the +Moming—Preliminaries are observed—Rock <hi rend='italic'>v.</hi> snow mountains—The +amateur and the guide on rocks and on snow—The programme +is made out—Franz Andermatten—Falling stones in the +<anchor id="corr031"/><corr sic="gulley">gully</corr>—We smooth away the difficulties—The psychological +effects of reaching mountain summits—A rock bombardment and +a narrow escape—The youthful tourist and his baggage—Hotel +trials—We are interviewed—The gushers. +</p></argument> + +<p> +The writer of an Alpine narrative labours under more +disadvantages than most literary folk—if authors +generally will permit the association, and allow that +those who rush into print with their Alpine experiences +have the smallest claim to be dignified with such a +title. One drawback is that their accounts necessarily +suffer from a paucity of characters. A five-act tragedy +supported, to use a theatrical expression, by two walking +gentlemen, one heavy lead and a low comedy +<q>super,</q> might possibly pall upon an audience, but in +Alpine literature, if I may be permitted to push the +metaphor a little further, not only is this the case but +the unhappy reader finds the characters like <q>barn +<pb n='32'/><anchor id='Pg032'/>stormers</q> playing now comedy, now tragedy, and +sometimes, it may possibly be added, dramas of +romance. +</p> +<note place="margin">Fact and romance</note> +<p> +Again, in all matters absolutely relating to mountaineering +in the Alps, the narrator feels bound +to stick to matters of fact. The drama of romance +must be excluded from his répertoire, or, at any rate, +very cautiously handled. I knew a man once, who +on a single occasion went a-fishing in Norway and +caught a salmon. Naturally he was proud of the +achievement, and when in the company of brother +sportsmen, would hold up his head, assume a knowing +air, and take part in the conversation, such conversation +relating, of course, to the size of the various fish +those present had caught. Such unswerving and +prosaic veracity did my friend possess, that, though +sorely tempted as he must have been on many occasions, +for ten years he never added a single ounce to +the weight of his fish. A writer, an Alpine scribbler +at any rate, is perhaps justified if he introduces +incidents into an account of an expedition which may +not have happened on that particular occasion, but +which did happen on some other; and surely he +may, without impropriety, romance a little on such +part of his work as is not strictly geographical; for +example, he may describe a chalet as being dirty, +when according to the peasant’s standard of cleanliness +it would have been considered spotless, or describe +<pb n='33'/><anchor id='Pg033'/>a view as magnificent, when as a matter of fact he +paid no attention to it, but he would be acting most +culpably if he asserted that he got within fifty feet of +the summit, well knowing that he was not fifty feet +from the base of the peak, or if he stated that rocks +were impossible, or an ice-fall impracticable, when the +sole reason for his failure consisted in his being possessed +with a strong desire to go back home. Of course +a writer can only give his own impressions, and these +are much tempered by increased experience and the +lapse of time, but in taking up old accounts of +Alpine work one not unfrequently finds a good deal +of description that requires toning down. In these +sketches I have striven honestly to render all that relates +intimately to the actual mountains as accurate +as possible, and would sooner be considered a dull than +an unreliable historian. +</p> + +<p> +It is no easy matter to reproduce almost on the +spot an account of a climb with absolute accuracy, +however strong the desire may be to do so. Besides, +a climber does not pursue his pastime with a note +book perpetually open before him. If he does, his +mountaineering is more of a business than he is +usually willing to admit. The guide often, the +amateur commonly, fails to recognise exactly from a +distance a line of ascent or descent on rocks, though +but just completed. Still more difficult is it to work +out the precise details of a particular route on a map +<pb n='34'/><anchor id='Pg034'/>or photograph. The microscopist knows that the +higher powers of his instrument give him no additional +insight into the structure of certain objects, +but rather mislead. Even so may my readers be +asked to employ but gymnoscopic criticism of these +sketches. +</p> +<note place="margin">The thirst for novelty</note> +<p> +In September 1872 our party reached Zermatt +from Chamouni by the <q>high-level</q> route, a series of +walks which no amount of familiarity will ever deprive +of their charm, and concerning which more will be +found elsewhere in this work. All Alpine climbers +were then burning as fiercely as they ever did to +achieve something new. They had just begun to +realise that the stock of new peaks and passes was +not inexhaustible, and that the supply was wholly +inadequate to meet the demand. This feeling showed +itself in various ways. Climbers looked upon each +other with something of suspicion and jealousy, and +if any new expedition was being planned by any one +of their number the others would quickly recognise +the state of affairs. If an Alpine man were found +secreted in obscure corners conversing in a low voice +with his guides and intent on a study of the map, or +if he returned evasive answers when questioned as to +his plans, he was at once set down as having, probably, +a new expedition in mind. As for the guides, +they assumed at once airs of importance, as does a +commencing schoolboy newly arrayed in a tall hat, +<pb n='35'/><anchor id='Pg035'/>and exhibited such mystery that their intentions were +unmistakable. Their behaviour, indeed, may have +been partly due to the fact that the natural efforts of +their comrades to extract information was invariably +accompanied by somewhat undue hospitality, and their +brotherly feelings were usually expressed in an acceptably +liquid form. As a rule such hospitality did not +fail in its object. Whether due to a certain natural +leakiness of mind on the part of the guides or not, +I cannot say, but certainly the information always +oozed out, and the intentions of the party were invariably +thoroughly well known before the expedition +actually started to achieve fresh glory. Every one of +the first-rate peaks in the Zermatt district had been +ascended, most of them over and over again, before +1872, but the Rothhorn was still out of the pale of +the Zermatt expeditions. Messrs. Leslie Stephen +and F. Craufurd Grove, who first climbed the peak, +ascended it from Zinal, and descended to the same +place. It seemed to us, therefore, that if we could +prove the accessibility of the mountain from Zermatt, +we should do something more than merely climb the +peak by a new route. The rocks looked attractive, +and the peak itself lay so immediately above Zermatt +that it seemed possible enough to make the ascent +without sleeping out or consuming any great amount +of time. +</p> + +<p> +We went through all the necessary preliminary +<pb n='36'/><anchor id='Pg036'/>formalities. We assumed airs of mystery at times; +why, I know not. We inspected distant peaks through +the telescope. At other times we displayed an excess +of candour, and talked effusively about districts remote +from that which we intended to investigate. +We climbed up a hill, and surveyed the face of our +mountain through a telescope, thereby wasting a day +and acquiring no information whatever. We pointed +out to each other the parts of the mountain which +appeared most difficult, and displayed marvellous differences +of opinion on the subject, owing, as it is usually +the case, to the circumstance that we were commonly, +in all probability, talking at the same time about totally +distinct parts of the peak. With the telescope I succeeded +in discovering to my own entire satisfaction a +perfectly impracticable route to the summit. Finally, +in order that no single precaution might be omitted +to ensure success, we sent up the guides to reconnoitre—a +most useless proceeding. We had new +nails put in our boots, ordered provisions, uncoiled +our rope and coiled it up again quite unnecessarily, +gave directions that we should be called at an unhallowed +hour in the morning, and went to bed under +the impression that we should not be object in the least +to turn out at the time arranged. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Rock v. snow mountains</note> + +<p> +It is on the rock mountains of Switzerland that +the acme of enjoyment is to be found. Not that +I wish to disparage the snow-peaks; but if a +com<pb n='37'/><anchor id='Pg037'/>parison be instituted it is to most climbers, at any rate +in their youthful days, infinitely in favour of the rock. +Of course it may be argued that there are comparatively +few mountains where the two are not combined. +But a mountaineer classifies peaks roughly +as rock or snow, according to the chief obstacles that +each presents. A climber may encounter serious +difficulties in the way of bergschrunds, steep couloirs, +soft snow, and so forth; but if on the same expedition +he meets with rocks which compel him to put +forth greater energies and perseverance than the snow +required, he will set the expedition down as a difficult +rock climb, simply, of course, because the idea of +difficulty which is most vividly impressed on his mind +is in connection with that portion of his climb, and +<hi rend='italic'>vice versâ</hi>. An undeniable drawback to the snow +peaks consists in their monotony. The long series of +steps that have to be cut at times, or the dreary wading +for hours through soft or powdery snow, are not +always forgotten in the pleasure of overcoming the +difficulties of a crevasse, reaching the summit of a +peak, or the excitement of a good glissade. It is the +diversity of obstacles that meet the rock climber, the +uncertainty as to what may turn up next, the doubt +as to the possibility of finding the friendly crack or +the apposite ledge, that constitute some of the main +charms. Every step is different, every muscle is called +into play as the climber is now flattened against a +<pb n='38'/><anchor id='Pg038'/>rough slab, now abnormally stretched from one hold +to another, or folded up like the conventional pictures +of the ibex, and every step can be recalled afterwards +with pleasure and amusement as the mountain is +climbed over again in imagination. +</p> +<note place="margin">The amateur and the guide</note> +<p> +But there is more than this; on rocks the amateur +is much less dependent on his guides and has much +more opportunity of exercising his own powers. It +must be admitted that on rocks some amateurs are +occasionally wholly dependent not on, but from their +guides, and take no more active share in locomotion +than does a bale of goods in its transit from a ship’s +hold to a warehouse. Too often the amateurs who +will not take the trouble to learn something of the +science and art of mountaineering are but an impediment, +an extra burden, as has been often said, to the +guides. The guides have to hack out huge steps for +their benefit. The amateurs wholly trust to them for +steering clear of avalanches, rotten snow bridges, and +the like. The amateur’s share in a snow ascent +usually consists, in fact, either in counselling retreat, +insisting on progress, indicating impossible lines of +ascent, or in the highly intellectual and arithmetical +exercise of counting the number of steps hewn out to +ensure his locomotion in the proper direction. +</p> + +<p> +Place the unpaid climber, on the other hand, on +rocks. Here the probability is that a slip will entail +no unpleasant consequences to anyone but the slipper. +<pb n='39'/><anchor id='Pg039'/>The power of sustaining a sudden strain is so enormously +increased when the hands have a firm grip +that the amateur can, if he please, sprawl and +scramble unaided over difficult places with satisfaction +to himself and usually without risk to anyone else; +that is, as soon as he has fully persuaded the guides (no +easy task, I admit) that the process of pulling vehemently +at the rope, possibly encircling his waist in a +slip knot, is as detrimental to his equilibrium as it is to +his digestion. Guides, however, as has been hinted, +do not acknowledge this fact in animal mechanics, +and their employers frequently experience as an acute +torture that compressing process which, more deliberately +applied, is not regarded by some as hurtful, +but rather as a necessary accompaniment of fashionable +attire. When the amateur has succeeded in +overcoming the natural instinct of the guides to pull +when there is no occasion to do so, he becomes a unit +in the party, a burden of course, and a hindrance to +some guides, but nothing to what he was on the +snow. +</p> + +<p> +Sentiments similar to the above have not unfrequently +been set forth in print: they seldom, if ever, +actuate the minds of mountaineers when actually +engaged in their pastime or when describing their +exploits to less skilled persons. +</p> + +<p> +There is great satisfaction, too, in translating +one’s self over a given difficult rock passage without +<pb n='40'/><anchor id='Pg040'/>other assistance than that provided by nature herself, +and without surreptitious aid from one’s neighbour in +the shape of steps. Then again, snow mountains are +as inconsistent as cheap aneroids. One day each step +costs much labour and toil, and almost the next +perhaps the peak will allow itself to be conquered in +one-tenth of the time. Not that the writer seeks to +argue that there is no pleasure to be derived from +snow mountains. It is to climbing <hi rend='italic'>per se</hi> that these +remarks apply. After all, everyone has his own +opinion; but he who has not tasted the pleasures of +a really difficult and successful rock climb—especially +if it be a new one—knows not what the Alps can +really do for his amusement. +</p> +<note place="margin">The guides’ room</note> +<p> +An expedition of suitable magnitude and difficulty +was suggested by the guides, viz. an ascent of the +Rothhorn (or Moming) from the Zermatt side. Mr. +Passingham of Cambridge was at the time staying at +the Monte Rosa Hotel, and it was soon arranged that +we should combine our forces. The guides, on being +asked their opinion as to the projected climb, reported +diplomatically that, given fine weather, the ascent +would be difficult but possible. This is the answer +that the guides generally do give. We decided to +attempt the whole excursion in a single day, considering +that a short rest in the comparatively luxurious +beds provided by M. Seiler was preferable on the +whole to more prolonged repose in a shepherd’s hut; +<pb n='41'/><anchor id='Pg041'/>for the so-called repose means usually a night of +misery, and the misery under these conditions is apt +to make a man literally acquainted with strange +bed-fellows. At 2 in the morning we sought for +the guides’ room, to superintend the packing of our +provisions. It was not easy to find, but at last we +discovered a dingy little subterranean vault with one +small window tightly jammed up and covered with +dust. Of this den there were two occupants. One +was employed silently in eating large blocks of a +curious boiled mess out of a pipkin. The other was +smoking a very complicated pipe, and sitting bolt +upright on a bench with half a bottle of <hi rend='italic'>vin ordinaire</hi> +before him. Why he was carousing thus in the +small hours was not evident. From these signs we +judged correctly that the apartment was devoted to the +guides as a dining, smoking, club and recreation room. +</p> + +<p> +Our staff was already in attendance, and it struck +both of us that the success of the expedition was a +foregone conclusion if it depended on the excellence of +our guides—Alexander Burgener, the embodiment of +strength, endurance, and pluck; Ferdinand Imseng, +of activity and perseverance, alone would have sufficed, +but we had in addition a tough, weather-beaten, cheery +companion (for he was always a companion as well as +a guide), Franz Andermatten, ever sagacious, ever +helpful and ever determined. It would be hard to +find a successor adequately to fill our old friend’s place. +<pb n='42'/><anchor id='Pg042'/>It is impossible to efface his memory from my mind, +nor can I ever forget how on that day he showed all +his best qualities and contributed mainly to our +success.<note place="foot">Franz Andermatten died in August 1883. His name is +mentioned elsewhere in these sketches, but I leave what I have +written untouched: for I do not hold with those who would +efface the recollection of all that was bright and merry in one taken +from us.</note> The prologue is spoken; let us raise the +curtain on the comedy. +</p> + +<note place="margin">A false start</note> + +<p> +The guides had already made their usual preparations +for packing up—that is to say, they had constructed +a multiplicity of little paper parcels and +spread them about the room. As to the contents of +these little parcels, they were of course uncertain, and +all had to be undone to make sure that nothing had +been omitted. A good deal of time was thus lost, and +nothing much was gained, except that we corrected +the error of packing up a handful of loose lucifers and +two tallow dips with the butter and honey in a glass +tumbler. Then the parcels were stowed away in the +knapsacks, the straps of course all rearranged and +ultimately replaced by odds and ends of string. +Eventually, at 3 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi>, we started, leaving the two +occupants of the guides’ room still engaged in the +same manner as when they first came under observation, +and walked up the narrow valley running due +north of Zermatt and leading towards the Trift Joch +and the base of the mountain for which we were +<pb n='43'/><anchor id='Pg043'/>making. Having journeyed for about half an hour, +it was discovered that the telescope had been left +behind. Franz instantly started off to get it; not +because it was considered particularly necessary, but +chiefly on the ground that it is not orthodox to go on +a new expedition without a telescope. We stumbled up +the narrow winding path, and close below the moraine +called our first halt and waited for Franz’s return. +I selected a cool rock on which to complete the slumber +which had been commenced in bed and continued on +a tilted chair in the guides’ room. After waiting an +hour we decided to proceed, as no answer was returned +to our frequent shouts. Presently, however, a distant +yell attracted our attention, and we beheld, to our +astonishment, the cheery face of Franz looking down +on us from the top of the moraine. Stimulated by +this apparition, we pushed on with great vigour, +clambered up the moraine, whose extreme want of +cohesion necessitated a treadmill style of progression, +and having reached the top passed along it to the +snow. Here we bore first to the right, and then, +working round, made straight for a sharp-topped +buttress which juts out at a right angle from the +main mass of the mountain. Arrived at a patch of +rocks near the commencement of the arête, we +disencumbered ourselves of superfluous baggage; that +is to say, after the traditional manner of mountaineers, +we discarded about three-fourths of the +<pb n='44'/><anchor id='Pg044'/>impedimenta we had so laboriously dragged up to +that point, and of which at no subsequent period of +the expedition did we make the slightest use. Next, +we prepared for such rock difficulties as might present +themselves, by buttoning up our coats as tight as +was convenient, and decorated our heads respectively +with woollen extinguishers like unto the covers placed +by old maids over cherished teapots. +</p> + +<p> +It is a grand moment that, when the difficulty of +an expedition opens out, when you grasp the axe +firmly, settle in to the rope, and brace up the muscles +for the effort of the hour: a moment probably the +most pleasurable of the whole expedition, when the +peak towers clear and bright above, when the climber +realises that he is on the point of deciding whether he +shall achieve or fail in achieving a long wished for +success, or what it may be perhaps allowable to call a +cutting-out expedition (for even mountain climbers +are prone to small jealousies). The excitement on +nearing the actual summit often rather fades away +than increases, and the climber lounges up the last +few steps to the top with the same sort of nonchalance +that a guest invited to drink displays in approaching +the bar. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Falling stones in the gully</note> + +<p> +Dividing into two parties, we passed rapidly along +the snow ridge which abuts against the east face of the +mountain. The cliffs of the Rothhorn seem almost to +overhang on this face, and were from our point of +<pb n='45'/><anchor id='Pg045'/>view magnificent. On the right, too, the precipice is +a sheer one, to employ a not uncommon epithet. +Without much difficulty we clambered up the first +part of the face of the mountain, taking a zigzag +course towards the large gully which is distinctly +visible from the other side of the valley, and which +terminates above in a deep jagged notch in the ridge +not far below the summit. Gradually the climbing +became more difficult, and it was found necessary to +cross the gully backwards and forwards on several +occasions. In so crossing we were exposed to some +risk from falling stones; that is to say, some chips and +bits of rock on a few occasions went flying by without +any very apparent reason. In those days mountaineers +were in the habit of considering these projectiles +as a possible source of risk. A later generation +would pass them by as easily as the stones passed by +us, and it is not now the fashion to consider such a +situation as we were in at all dangerous. It is difficult +to see the reason why. Perhaps people’s heads +are harder now than they were then. For the greater +part of the time we kept to the left or south side of +the gully, and reaching the notch looked right down +upon the commencement of the Glacier du Durand, a +fine expanse of snowfield, singularly wild-looking and +much crevassed. Turning to the right, we ascended a +short distance along the ridge, and then a halt was +called. The guides now proceeded to arrange a length +<pb n='46'/><anchor id='Pg046'/>of some hundred feet of rope on the rocks above to +assist in our return. The process sorely tried our +patience, and we were right glad when the signal was +given to go on again. We had now to leave the arête, +to descend a little, and so pass on to the west face of +the mountain, and by this face to ascend and gradually +work back to the ridge. No doubt during this +part of the climb we made much the same mistake in +judgment as had previously been made on a memorable +ascent of the Matterhorn, and crossed far more +on to the face than was really necessary or advisable. +The mountain has since the time when these lines +were originally written passed through the regular +stages of gradual depreciation, and it is more difficult +now to realise that we considered it at the time very +difficult. Probably, however, subsequent travellers +have improved considerably on the details of the route +we actually followed; at any rate the ascent is now +considered quite proper for a novice to attempt, at +any rate by the novice himself. We worked ourselves +slowly along in the teeth of a biting cold wind, and +without finding the fixed rope necessary to assist our +progress. Reaching the ridge again, the way became +distinctly easier, and we felt now that the peak was +at our mercy. Presently, however, we came to a huge +inverted pyramid of rock that tried rather successfully +to look like the summit, and we had some little difficulty +in surmounting it. By dint of strange acrobatic +<pb n='47'/><anchor id='Pg047'/>feats and considerable exertion we hoisted our leading +guide on to the top. It was fortunate for him perhaps +that the seams of his garments were not machine-sewn, +or he would certainly have rent his raiment. Finding, +however, that the only alternative that offered when +he got to the top of the rock was to get down again on +the other side, the rest of us concluded that on the +whole we should prefer to walk round. The last few +yards were perfectly easy, and at 1.30 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> we stood on +the summit enjoying a most magnificent view in every +direction. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Effects of reaching a summit</note> + +<p> +It is a somewhat curious phenomenon, but one +frequently remarked, that the mountaineer’s characteristics +seem abruptly to change when he reaches +the summit of a peak. The impressionable, excitable +person instantly becomes preternaturally calm and +prosaic, while those of lymphatic temperament have +not unfrequently been observed to develop suddenly +rather explosive qualities, and to yell or wave their +hats without any very apparent incitement thereto. +Individuals whose detractors hold to be gifted with +poetic attributes have been heard to utter quite +commonplace remarks, and I have even known a +phlegmatic companion so far forget himself, under +these modifying circumstances, as to make an excessively +bad pun and laugh very heartily at it himself, +quite an unusual occurrence in a wag. Others find +relief for their feelings by punching their companions +<pb n='48'/><anchor id='Pg048'/>violently in the back, or resorting to such horse-play +as the area of the summit allows scope for. Directly, +however, the descent commences the climber resumes +his normal nature. The fact is, that in most cases, +perhaps, the chief pleasure of the expedition does not +come at the moment when the climber realises that he +is about to undo, as it were, all his work of the day. +There is no real climax of an expedition, and, as has +been said, it is quite artificial to suppose that the +enjoyment must culminate on reaching the top. But +still it is considered proper to testify to some unusual +emotional feelings. Some of the most enjoyable climbs +that the mountaineer can recall in after life, are not +those in which he has reached any particular point. +Guides consider it becoming to evince in a somewhat +forced way the liveliness of their delight on completing +an ascent. But such joy as they exhibit is usually +about as genuine and heartfelt as an organ-grinder’s +grin, or a Lord Mayor’s smile on receiving a guest +whom he does not know and who has merely come to +feed at his expense. +</p> + +<p> +The wind was too cold to permit of a very long +stay on the summit, and having added a proper +number of stones to the cairn, a ceremony as indispensable +as the cutting of a notch in the mainmast +when the traditional fisherman changes his shirt, we +descended rapidly to the point where it was necessary +to quit the ridge. Down the first portion of the steep +<pb n='49'/><anchor id='Pg049'/>rock slope we passed with great caution, some of the +blocks of stone being treacherously loose, or only +lightly frozen to the face. +</p> + +<note place="margin">A narrow escape</note> + +<p> +We had arrived at the most difficult part of the +whole climb, and at a rock passage which at that +time we considered was the nastiest we had ever +encountered. The smooth, almost unbroken face of +the slope scarcely afforded any foot-hold, and our +security almost entirely depended on the rope we had +laid down in our ascent. Had not the rope been in +position we should have varied our route, and no +doubt found a line of descent over this part much +easier than the one we actually made for, even without +any help from the fixed cord. Imseng was far +below, working his way back to the arête, while the +rest of the party were holding on or moving but +slowly with faces turned to the mountain. Suddenly +I heard a shout from above; those below glanced up +at once: a large flat slab of rock, that had afforded +us good hold in ascending, but proved now to have +been only frozen in to a shallow basin of ice, had been +dislodged by the slightest touch from one of the party +above, and was sliding down straight at us. It seemed +an age, though the stone could not have had to +fall more than ten feet or so, before it reached us. +Just above me it turned its course slightly; Franz, +who was just below, more in its direct line of descent, +attempted to stop the mass, but it ground his hands +<pb n='50'/><anchor id='Pg050'/>against the rock and swept by straight at Imseng. A +yell from us hardly awoke him to the danger: the +slab slid on faster and faster, but just as we expected +to see our guide swept away, the rock gave a bound +for the first time, and as, with a startled expression, +he flung himself against the rock face, it leapt +up and, flying by within a few inches of his head, +thundered down below. A moment or two of silence +followed, and then a modified cheer from Imseng, as +subdued as that of a <q>super</q> welcoming a theatrical +king, announced his safety, and he looked up at us +with a serious expression on his face. Franz’s escape +had been a remarkably lucky one, but his hands were +badly cut about and bruised. In fact it was a near +thing for all of us, and the mere recollection will +still call up that odd sort of thrill a man experiences +on suddenly recollecting at 11 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> that he ought to +have dined out that evening with some very particular +people. Had not the rock turned its course just +before it reached Franz, and bounded from the face +of the mountain over Imseng’s head, one or more +of the party must unquestionably have been swept +away. The place was rather an exceptional one, +and the rock glided a remarkably long distance without +a bound, but still the incident may serve to +show that falling stones are not a wholly imaginary +danger. +</p> + +<note place="margin">The youthful tourist</note> + +<p> +It would have been difficult, with the elementary +<pb n='51'/><anchor id='Pg051'/>knowledge of mountaineering that I now see we +possessed at that day, to have descended without +using the attached rope, and quite out of the question +for anyone possessed of a proper respect for his suit +of dittos to have done so. In this latter respect we +had to exercise economical caution: for we had no +very great store at the hotel or many changes of +raiment. It is generally possible to gauge pretty +accurately an Alpine traveller’s experience by the +amount of luggage he takes on a tour. Some tourists, +following the advice given in the <q>Practical Guide +Book</q> (a disconnected work written in the style of +Mr. Jingle’s conversation, but much in favour at one +time), were in the habit of travelling with one suit of +clothes and a portable bath. The latter, though they +took it with them, they seldom took more than once; +at the best it was of comparatively little use as an +article of apparel, but imparted an aromatic flavour +to anything packed up in its immediate neighbourhood. +In those youthful days we considered, forsooth, +that a little leathern wallet adequately replaced a +portmanteau, and in transporting luggage did not +always act on the sound commercial maxim that you +should never do anything for yourself which a paid +person might do equally well for you; consequently a +heavy rain shower reduced the traveller to inactivity, +and an oversight on the part of the laundress entailed +consequences that it is not permissible to mention. +</p> + +<pb n='52'/><anchor id='Pg052'/> + +<p> +Meanwhile our turn had come to move on. A +zigzagging crack, which was too narrow to admit of +anything but a most uncomfortable position, afforded +the only hand and foot hold on which we could rely. +Our gloveless hands, clutching at the rope, cooled +down slowly to an unpleasant temperature that rendered +it doubtful whether they were attached to the +arms or not, and we began to wish we had gone down +the Zinal side of the mountain. However, Imseng +wormed himself along the rocks, to which he adhered +with the tenacity of a lizard, and finally reached the +end of our rope and a region of comparative safety. +We followed his example slowly, and, having joined +him, seated ourselves on some rocks inappropriately +designed for repose, and finished off the food we had +with us. Climbing carefully down the east face of +the mountain, we reached the snow ridge and passed +rapidly along it, our spirits rising exuberantly as we +looked back on the vanquished peak. As usually +happens, the guides had entirely forgotten the place +where they had concealed our baggage on the ascent, +and in fact had hidden it so carefully that they had +some difficulty in finding it when they came to the spot. +It is curious to note how often the instinct of guides, +so much talked about, is at fault in this matter, and +how systematically they are in the habit of carrying +up on the mountains superfluous articles, hiding +<pb n='53'/><anchor id='Pg053'/>them with entirely unnecessary precautions, and subsequently +forgetting the whole transaction. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Hotel trials</note> + +<p> +While they searched about for their cache we +enjoyed the use of tobacco, if such an expression be +allowable in the case of some curious stuff purchased +in the valley. Still, as the packet in which it was +contained was labelled <q>Tabak,</q> we considered it to be +such. Being indulgently disposed, and not being +profound botanists, poetic license alone enabled us to +imagine that +</p> + +<lg> +<l rend='margin-left: 14'><q rend="post: none">We soared above</q></l> +<l>Dull earth, in those ambrosial clouds like Jove,</l> +<l>And from our own empyrean height</l> +<l><q rend="pre: none">Looked down upon Zermatt with calm delight.</q></l> +</lg> + +<note place="margin">The gushers</note> + +<p> +It may have been so; it gave me a sore throat. +Descending rapidly, we reached the Monte Rosa Hotel +at 7 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi>, in an exultant frame of mind, a ragged condition +of attire, and a preposterous state of hunger. +The whole time occupied in the climb was sixteen +hours. Of this an hour was wasted while we were +waiting for the telescope, and three-quarters of an +hour was spent in arranging the rope, by the aid of +which we descended. Probably in actual climbing +and walking we employed rather under thirteen +hours; but the snow was in excellent order, and we +descended on the whole very rapidly. Our trials were +not over for the day, when we reached the hotel. Two +arch young things had prepared an ambuscade and +<pb n='54'/><anchor id='Pg054'/>surprised us successfully at the door of the hotel. +Sweetly did they gush. <q>Oh! where had we been?</q> +We said we had been up in the mountains, indicating +the general line of locality with retrospective thumb. +<q>Oh! wasn’t it fearfully dangerous? Weren’t we all +tied tightly together?</q> (as if, on the principle of +union being strength, we had been fastened up and +bound like a bundle of quill pens). <q>Oh! hadn’t we +done something very wonderful?</q> The situation was +becoming irritating. <q>Oh! didn’t we have to drag +ourselves up precipices by the chamois horns on the +tops of our sticks?</q> <q>No indeed——</q> <q>Oh! really, +now, that guide there</q> (a driver with imperfectly buttoned +garments who was sitting on the wall with a +vacuous look) <q>told us you were <hi rend='italic'>such</hi> wonderful +climbers.</q> It was becoming exasperating. <q>And oh! +we wanted to ask you so much, for you know all about +it. <hi rend='italic'>Do</hi> you think we could walk over the Théodule? +Papa</q> (great heavens! he must be a nonagenarian) +<q>thinks we should be so foolish to try. Could you +persuade him?</q> <q>Well, really——</q> <q>Wouldn’t the +precipices make us dreadfully giddy?</q> <q>No, no more +than you are now.</q> <q>Oh! thank you so much. And +you really won’t tell us what awful ascent you have +been making?</q> It was maddening. <q>After dinner +perhaps?</q> <q>Oh! thank you. Oh! Sustie</q> (this to +each other; they both spoke together: probably the +names were Susie and Tottie), <q>won’t that be +delight<pb n='55'/><anchor id='Pg055'/>ful?</q> By dexterous manœuvring we escaped these +gushing Circes during the evening. Happening to +pass later on by the open door of the little <hi rend='italic'>salon</hi>, the +following remark was overheard: <q>My dear, the conceit +of these climbing objects is quite dreadful. They +do nothing but flourish their nasty sticks and ropes +about: they want the whole place to themselves</q> (we +had been sitting on wooden chairs in the middle of +the high street, near an unsavoury heap of refuse), +<q>and they talk, talk, talk, my dear, all day and all +night about what they have been doing in the mountains +and of their nonsensical climbs. And what +frights they look. I think they are perfectly horrid.</q> +Can the voice have been that of the gusher? +</p> + +</div><div type="chapter" n="3" rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb n='56'/><anchor id='Pg056'/> +<index index="toc" level1="III. Early attempts on the Aiguille du Dru"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="III. Early attempts on the Aiguille du Dru"/> +<head>CHAPTER III.</head> + +<head type="sub">EARLY ATTEMPTS ON THE AIGUILLE DU DRU</head> + +<argument><p> +The Alps and the early mountaineers—The last peaks to surrender—The +Aiguille du Dru—Messrs. Kennedy and Pendlebury’s attempt +on the peak—One-day expeditions in the Alps and thoughts +on huts and sleeping out—The Chamouni guide system—A word +on guides, past and present—The somnolent landlord and his +peculiarities—Some of the party see a chamois—Doubts as to +the peak and the way—The duplicity of the Aiguille deceives us—Telescopic +observations—An ill-arranged glacier—Franz and +his mighty axe—A start on the rocks in the wrong direction—Progress +reported—An adjournment—The rocks of the lower +peak of the Aiguille du Dru—Our first failure—The expedition +resumed—A new line of ascent—We reach the sticking point—Beaten +back—The results gained by the two days’ climbing. +</p></argument> + +<note place="margin">The last peaks to +surrender</note> + +<p> +Accounts of failures on the mountains in books of +Alpine adventure are as much out of place, according +to some critics, as a new hat in a crowded church. +Humanly speaking, the possession of this head-gear +under such circumstances renders it impossible to +divert the thoughts wholly from worldly affairs. This, +however, by the way. Now the pioneers of the Alps, +the Stephenses, the Willses, the Moores, the Morsheads, +and many others, had used up all new +material with alarming rapidity, I might say voracity, +<pb n='57'/><anchor id='Pg057'/>before the climbing epoch to which the present +sketches relate. There is an old story of a man who +arrived running in a breathless condition on a railway +platform just in time to see the train disappearing. +<q>You didn’t run fast enough, sir,</q> remarked the porter +to him. <q>You idiot!</q> was the answer, <q>I ran plenty +fast enough, but I didn’t begin running soon enough.</q> +Even so was it with the climbers of our generation. +They climbed with all possible diligence, but they began +their climbing too late. Novelty, that is the desire +for achieving new expeditions, was still considered of +paramount importance, but unfortunately there was +very little new material left. It is difficult to realise +adequately now the real veneration entertained for an +untrodden peak. A certain amount of familiarity +seemed indispensable before a new ascent was even +seriously contemplated. It had occurred to certain +bold minds that the aiguilles around Chamouni +might not be quite as bad as they looked. In 1873 +the chief of the still unconquered peaks of the Mont +Blanc district were the Aiguille des Charmoz, the +Aiguille Blaitière, the Aiguille du Géant, the Aiguille +Peuteret, the Aiguille du Dru, and a few other minor +points. All of these have since been captured, some +of them bound in chains. Opinions differed considerably +as to their accessibility. Some hopeful spirits +thought that by constantly <q>pegging away</q> they +might be scaled; others thought that the only feasible +<pb n='58'/><anchor id='Pg058'/>plan would be indeed to peg away, but were of opinion +that the pegs should be of iron and driven into the +rock. Such views naturally lead to discussions, sometimes +rather heated, as to whether mountaineering +morality might fitly tolerate such aids to the climber. +Of all the peaks mentioned above, the Aiguille du Dru +and the Aiguille du Géant were considered as the +most hopeful by the leading guides, though the older +members of that body held out little prospect of +success. It is a rather curious fact that the majority +of the leading guides who gave their opinions to us in +the matter thought that the Aiguille du Géant was +the more promising peak to attack. Subsequent experience +has proved that they were greatly in error in +this judgment. The Aiguille du Géant has indeed +been ascended, but much more aid than is comprised +in the ordinary mountaineer’s equipment was found +necessary. In fact, the stronghold was not carried +by direct assault, but by sapping and mining. There +is a certain rock needle in Norway which, I am told, +was once, and once only, ascended by a party on surveying +operations bent. No other means could be +found, so a wooden structure was built up around the +peak, such as may be seen investing a dilapidated +church steeple; and the mountain, like the Royal +Martyr of history, yielded up its crowning point at +the scaffold. We did not like the prospect of employing +any such architectural means to gain our end and +<pb n='59'/><anchor id='Pg059'/>the summit, and, from no very clearly defined reasons, +turned our attention chiefly to the Aiguille du Dru. +Perhaps the prominent appearance of this Aiguille, +and the fact that its outline was so familiar from +the Montanvert, gradually imbued us with a certain +sense of familiarity, which ultimately developed +into a notion that if not actually accessible it might +at least be worth trying. It seemed too prominent to +be impossible; from its height—12,517 feet only—the +mountain would doubtless not attract much attention, +were it not so advantageously placed. Thousands +of tourists had gazed on its symmetrical form: it had +been photographed, stared at through binoculars, +portrayed in little distorted pictures on useless work-boxes, +trays and other toy-shop gimcracks, more +often than any other mountain of the chain, Mont +Blanc excepted. Like an undersized volunteer officer, +it no doubt made the most of its height. But in truth +the Aiguille du Dru is a magnificent mountain form, +with its vast dark precipices on the north face, with +its long lines of cliff, broken and jagged and sparsely +wrinkled with gullies free from even a patch or trace +of snow. Point after point, and pinnacle after pinnacle +catch the gaze as we follow the edge of the +north-west <q>Kamm,</q> until the eye rests at last on the +singularly graceful isosceles triangle of rock which +forms the peak. It is spoken of lightly as merely +a tooth of rock jutting up from the ridge which +<pb n='60'/><anchor id='Pg060'/>culminates in the Aiguille Verte, but when viewed from +the Glacier de la Charpoua it is obviously a separate +mountain; at any rate it became such when the highest +point of the ridge, the Aiguille Verte, had been climbed +by somebody else. The cleft in the ridge on the right +side of the main mass of the Aiguille du Dru is a +very deep one as seen from the glacier, and the sharp +needle of rock which is next in the chain is a long +way from the Aiguille du Dru itself. North and south +the precipices run sheer down to the glaciers beneath. +The mountain has then four distinct sides, three of +them running down to great depths. Thus, even in +the prehistoric days of Alpine climbing, it had some +claim to individuality and might fairly be considered +as something more than, as it were, one unimportant +pinnacle on the roof of some huge cathedral. Perhaps, +however, repeated failures to ascend the mountain +begot undue veneration and caused an aspiring climber +to look with a prejudiced eye on its dimensions. +</p> + +<note place="margin">The Aiguille du Dru</note> + +<p> +So far as I know, the mountain had never been +assailed till 1873, when Messrs. Pendlebury and +Kennedy made an attempt. Mr. R. Pendlebury has +kindly furnished me with notes of the climb, which I +may be allowed to reproduce nearly in his own words:—Two +parties started simultaneously for the expedition. +One was composed of Messrs. Kennedy and Marshall, +with the guides Johann Fischer and Ulric Almer of +Grindelwald; the other party consisted of the Rev. +<pb n='61'/><anchor id='Pg061'/>C. Taylor, Messrs. W. M. and R. Pendlebury, with the +guides Hans Baumann, Peter Baumann, and Edouard +Cupelin. The first-mentioned party slept at the +Montanvert, while the others enjoyed themselves in a +bivouac high up on the side of the Glacier de la Charpoua +between the Aiguille du Dru and the Aiguille +Moine. This Glacier de la Charpoua, it may be mentioned, +is sometimes called the Glacier du Chapeau. +</p> + +<note place="margin">The first attempt</note> + +<p> +The bivouac appears to have been so comfortable +that Mr. Pendlebury and his friends did not take +advantage of their start. The Montanvert detachment, +who found no such inducement to stay one moment +longer than was absolutely necessary<note place="foot">In the old house, be it noted—not the modern luxurious combination +of a granite fortress and a palace.</note> in their costly +quarters, caught them up the next morning, and the +whole party started together. Mr. Kennedy’s guides +kept to the left of the Glacier de la Charpoua, which +looks more broken up than the right-hand side, but +apparently proved better going. This, however, it +should be observed, was in 1873, and these hanging +glaciers alter marvellously in detail from year to year, +though always preserving from a distance the same +general features. On the same principle, at the +proper distance, a mother may be mistaken for her +daughter, especially by a judicious person. But on +drawing near, however discreet the observer may be, +he is yet conscious of little furrows, diminutive +<pb n='62'/><anchor id='Pg062'/>wrinkles, and perhaps of a general shrinkage not to +be found in the more recent specimen. Speaking very +generally, I should say that these glaciers are, on the +whole, easier to traverse than they used to be: at any +rate my own personal observation of this particular +little glacier extends over a period of some years, and +the intricacies—it is hardly proper to call them difficulties—were +distinctly less towards the end of the time +than they were at the beginning. Of course a different +interpretation might be put upon such an opinion: +with the evolution of mountaineering skill the complexity +of these crumpled up snow-fields may seem to +have disentangled, but I am assured that in this particular +case it was not so. +</p> + +<note place="margin">First attempt on the peak</note> + +<p> +This digression must be pardoned. It arose +naturally from the circumstance that the route Mr. +Kennedy adopted would have proved, at any rate in +later years, a digression from the best way. Mr. +Pendlebury’s party went straight up, keeping, that is, +to the right-hand side of the glacier. Towards the +upper part the snow slopes became steeper, and soon +some step-cutting was required. The object in view +was to reach the lowest point in the ridge between the +Aiguille du Dru and the Aiguille Verte. It was +thought that, by turning to the left from the col, +it might be possible to reach the summit by the +eastern arête. The col itself from below seemed +easily attainable by means of a narrow zigzagging +<pb n='63'/><anchor id='Pg063'/>gully, interrupted here and there, that runs down +from the summit of the ridge. Ascending by the +rocks on the left of the gully the party made for +some little way good progress, but then a sudden +change came over the scene. After a consultation, it +was proposed that the guides Hans Baumann, Peter +Baumann, and Fischer should go on a little by themselves +and make for the ridge, which they estimated +lay about half an hour above them. They were then +to examine the rocks above and to bring back a report. +The rest of the party remained where they were, and +disported themselves as comfortably as circumstances +would permit. Hour after hour, however, passed +away, and the three guides seemed to make but little +progress. They returned at last with the melancholy +tidings that they had climbed nearly up to the ridge +and had found the rocks very difficult and dangerous. +(It should be noted that the line of attack chosen on +this occasion—the first serious attempt on the peak—was +devised by Hans Baumann, and it says much for +his sagacity that this very route proved years afterwards +to be the right one.) Questioned as to the +advisability of proceeding upwards, the guides employed +their favourite figure of speech and remarked +that not for millions of francs would they consent +to try again. Hans Baumann asserted that he had +never climbed more difficult rocks. This opinion, as +Mr. Pendlebury suggested at the time, was probably +<pb n='64'/><anchor id='Pg064'/>owing to the fact that the cliffs above were covered +with snow and glazed with ice, and this condition of +the mountain face made each step precarious. The +amateurs of the party were of opinion that the ridge +would prove attainable later in the season or in exceptionally +fine weather. As to the possibility of climbing +the rocks above—that is to say, the actual peak—none +of the party were able to come to any very positive +conclusion. At a rough guess it was estimated that +the party halted between two and three hundred feet +below the ridge. On the presentation of the guides +report the whole caravan turned back and reached +Chamouni safely, but not entirely without incident, for +the monotony of the descent and Mr. Taylor’s head +were broken by the fall of a big stone. This little +accident, Mr. Pendlebury remarked with disinterested +cheerfulness, was but a trifle. I have not been able +to ascertain Mr. Taylor’s views on the subject. +</p> + +<p> +When our party first essayed the ascent we knew +none of the above particulars, save only that some +mountaineers had endeavoured to reach the ridge +but had failed to ascend to any great height. Of the +actual cause of their ill success, and whether it were +owing to the unpropitious elements or to the actual +difficulties encountered, we were unaware. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Huts and sleeping out</note> + +<p> +At the time of which I am writing, a somewhat +novel mode of ascending mountains was coming into +vogue, which consisted in waiting for a suitable day at +<pb n='65'/><anchor id='Pg065'/>headquarters, starting at unheard-of hours, and completing +the expedition in one day—that is, within +twenty-four hours. It was argued in support of this +plan, that it was economical and that bivouacking +was but a laborious and expensive method of obtaining +discomfort. There are, said the advocates of the +method, but few mountains in the Alps which cannot +be ascended with much greater comfort in one day +than in two. The day’s climb is much more enjoyable +when it is possible to start from sleeping quarters in +which it is possible to sleep. The argument that repose +in hotel beds, though undoubtedly more luxurious, +was of comparatively little use if there were no time +to enjoy it, was held to be little to the purpose. Some +enthusiasts were wont to state that passing a night in a +chalet, or those magnified sentry boxes called cabanes, +constituted half the enjoyment on the expedition. This +is a little strong—like the flavour of the cabanes—and +if it were actually so the whole pleasure would be +but small. The camper out arises in the morning +from his delicious couch of soft new-mown hay in +a spotty and sticky condition, attended with considerable +local irritation, and feeling like a person who has +recently had his hair cut, with a pinafore but loosely +tied around his neck. Porters, like barbers, exhibit a +propensity for indulging in garlic immediately before +pursuing their avocation, which is not without discomfort +to their employers. (And here I may note as a +<pb n='66'/><anchor id='Pg066'/>psychological fact that one action of this permeating +vegetable is to induce confidential propensities in the +consumer. The point may be deemed worthy of investigation, +by personal experiment, by botanists and +students of materia medica, men who in the interests +of science are not prone to consider their personal +comfort and finer sensibilities.) Again, in unsettled +weather a fine day is often wasted by journeying up in +the afternoon to some chalet, or hovel, merely to enjoy +the pleasure of returning the following morning in the +rain. There is some force too in the argument that +but little actual time is gained by the first day’s performance, +for it is very difficult to start at anything +like the prearranged hour for departure from a camp. +An immensity of time is always spent in lighting the +morning fire, preparing breakfast, and getting under +way. On the other side, some little time is undoubtedly +saved by discarding the wholly superfluous +ceremony of washing, a process at once suggesting +itself to the mind of the Briton abroad if he beholds a +basin and cold water. +</p> + +<p> +The sum of the argument would seem to be that +camping out in some one else’s hut is but an unpleasant +fiction; that if the climber chooses to go to the expense, +he can succeed in making himself a trifle less +comfortable in his own tent or under a rock than he +would be in an hotel; and that he is the wisest man who +refrains from bivouacking when it is not really +neces<pb n='67'/><anchor id='Pg067'/>sary and is able to make the best of matters when it +is: and undoubtedly for many of the recognised +expeditions it is essential to have every possible +minute of spare time in hand. +</p> + +<note place="margin">The Chamouni guide system</note> + +<p> +We were naturally rather doubtful as to the successful +issue of our expedition, at any rate at the first +attempt, and we therefore impressed upon the guides +the necessity of not divulging the plan. The secret, +however, proved to be so big that it was too much for +two, and they imparted consequently so much of the +information as they had not adequate storage for in +their own minds to any who chose to listen. Consequently +our intentions were thoroughly well known +before we started. There were in those days, perhaps, +more good guides, at any rate there were fewer bad +ones, in Chamouni than are to be found nowadays. +We could not, however, obtain the services—even if +we had desired them—of any of the local celebrities. +As a matter of fact, we were both of opinion that a +training in climbing, such as is acquired among the +Oberland and Valais men by chamois hunting and +constant rock work, would be most likely to have +produced the qualities which would undoubtedly be +needed on the aiguilles. +</p> + +<p> +The question of the efficiency of the Chamouni +guides and of the Chamouni guide system, a question +coeval with mountaineering itself, was burning then +as fiercely as it does now. The Alpine Club had +<pb n='68'/><anchor id='Pg068'/>striven in vain to improve matters; they had pointed +out that ability to answer a kind of mountaineering +catechism did not in itself constitute a very reliable +test of a peasant’s power; they had pointed out too +that the plan of electing a <q>guide chef</q> from the general +body of guides was one most open to abuse, one +sure to lead to favouritism and injustice, and one +obviously ill calculated to bring to the front any +specially efficient man. But unhappily the regulations +of the body of guides were, and still are, entangled +hopelessly in the French equivalent for red +tape. Jealousy and mistrust of the German-speaking +guides, whom serious mountaineers were beginning to +import in rather formidable numbers, were beginning +to awaken in the simple bosoms of the Savoyard peasants; +and our proceedings were consequently looked +upon with contemptuous disfavour by those who had +any knowledge of our project. +</p> + +<note place="margin">A word on guides</note> + +<p> +On August 18, 1873, we started. Our guides were +Alexander Burgener as leader, Franz Andermatten, +the best of companions, our guide, our friend, and +sometimes our philosopher, as second string, while a +taciturn porter of large frame and small mind, who +came from the Saas valley, completed the tale. Of +Burgener’s exceptional talent in climbing difficult +rocks we had had already good proof, and no doubt +he was, and still is, a man of remarkable daring, +endurance, and activity on rocks. I had reached +<pb n='69'/><anchor id='Pg069'/>then that stage in the mountaineering art at which a +man is prone to consider the guide he knows best as, +beyond all comparison, the best guide that could +possibly exist. The lapse of years renders me perhaps +better able now to form a dispassionate judgment +of Burgener’s capacity and skill. Both were very great. +I have seen at their work most of the leaders in this +department. Burgener never had the marvellous +neatness and finish so characteristic of Melchior +Anderegg, who, when mountaineering has passed +away into the limbo of extinct sports, such as bear-baiting, +croquet, and pell-mell, will, if he gets his +deserts, even by those who remember Maguignaz, +Carrel, Croz, and Almer, still be spoken of as <hi rend='italic'>the</hi> best +guide that ever lived. Nor was Burgener gifted with +the same simple unaffected qualities which made +Jakob Anderegg’s loss so keenly felt, nor the lightness +and agility of Rey or Jaun; but he united well in +himself qualities of strength, carefulness, perseverance +and activity, and possessed in addition the numerous +attributes of observation, experience, and desire for +improvement in his art which together make up what +is spoken of as the natural instinct of guides. These +were the qualities that made him a first-rate, indeed +an exceptional, guide. <hi rend='italic'>Nunc liberavi animam meam.</hi> +There is an old saying, involving a sound doctrine, +that +</p> +<lg> +<l>When you flatter lay it on thick;</l> +<l>Some will come off, but a deal will stick.</l> +</lg> + <p><pb n='70'/><anchor id='Pg070'/>The porter proved himself a skilful and strong climber, +but he was as silent as an oyster and, like that bivalve +mollusc when the freshness of its youth has passed +off, was perpetually on the gape. +</p> +<note place="margin">A landlord’s peculiarities</note> +<p> +A hot walk—it always is hot along this part—took +us up to the Montanvert. The moonlight threw quaint, +fantastic shadows along the path and made the dewy +gossamer filaments which swung from branch to +branch across the track twinkle into grey and silver; +and anything more aggravating than these spiders’ +threads at night it is hard to imagine. What earthly +purpose these animals think they serve by this reckless +nocturnal expenditure of bodily glue it is hard to say: +possibly the lines are swung across in order that they +may practise equilibrium; possibly the threads may +serve as lines of escape and retreat after the male +spinners have been a-wooing. The atmosphere +through the wood was as stuffy as a ship’s saloon in +a storm, and we were right glad to reach the Montanvert +at 3.30 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> Here, being athirst, we clamoured +for refreshment. The landlord of the ramshackle +hostelry at once appeared in full costume; indeed I +observed that during the summer it was impossible to +tell from his attire whether he had arisen immediately +from bed or no. He seemed to act on the principle +of the Norwegian peasant, who apparently undresses +once a year when the winter commences, and resumes +his garments when the light once more comes back +<pb n='71'/><anchor id='Pg071'/>and the summer season sets in. Our friend had +cultivated to great perfection the art of half sleeping +during his waking hours—that is, during such time +as he might be called upon to provide entertainment +for man and beast. Now at the Montanvert, during +the tourists’ season, this period extended over the whole +twenty-four hours. It was necessary, therefore, in +order that he might enjoy a proper physiological period +of rest, for him to remain in a dozing state—a sort +of æstival hybernation—for the whole time, which in +fact he did; or else he was by nature a very dull person, +and had actually a very restricted stock of ideas. +</p> + +<p> +The landlord produced at once a battered teapot +with a little sieve dangling from its snout, which had +been stewing on the hob, and poured out the contained +fluid into two stalked saucers of inconvenient diameter. +Stimulated by this watery extract, we entered into +conversation together. The sight of a tourist with +an ice axe led by a kind of reflex process to the landlord’s +unburdening his mind with his usual remarks. +Like other natives of the valley he had but two ideas +of <q>extraordinary</q> expeditions. <q>Monsieur is going +to the Jardin?</q> he remarked. <q>No, monsieur isn’t.</q> +<q>Then beyond a doubt monsieur will cross the Col du +Géant?</q> he said, playing his trump card. <q>No, +monsieur will not.</q> <q>Pardon—where does monsieur +expect to go to?</q> <q>On the present occasion we go to +try the Aiguille du Dru.</q> The landlord smiled in an +<pb n='72'/><anchor id='Pg072'/>aggravating manner. <q>Does monsieur think he will +get up?</q> <q>Time will show.</q> <q>Ah!</q> The landlord, +who had a chronic cold in the head, searched for +his pockethandkerchief, but not finding it, modified +the necessary sniff into one of derision, and then +demanded the usual exorbitant price for the refreshment, +amounting to about five times the value of +the teapot, sieve and all. We paid, and left him +chuckling softly to himself at our insane idea, as he +replaced the teapot on the hob in readiness for the +next arrival. That landlord, though physically sleepy, +was still wide awake in matters of finance. He once +charged me five francs for the loan of a secondhand +collection of holes which he termed a blanket. +</p> + +<note place="margin">We see a chamois</note> + +<p> +We got on to the glacier at the usual point and made +straight across the slippery hummocks to the grass +slope encircling the base of the Aiguille du Dru and +the Glacier de la Charpoua. The glacier above gives +birth to a feeble meandering little stream which +wanders fitfully down the mountain side. At first we +kept to the left, but after a while crossed the little +torrent, and bearing more to the right plodded +leisurely up the steep grass and rock slope. We had +made good progress when of a sudden Franz gave a +loud whistle and then fell flat down. The other two +guides immediately followed his example and beckoned +to us with excited gesticulations to behave in a +similarly foolish manner. Thereupon we too sat down, +<pb n='73'/><anchor id='Pg073'/>and enquired what the purport of this performance +might be. It turned out that there was a very little +chamois about half a mile off. Knowing that it would +be impossible to induce the guides to move on till the +animal had disappeared, we seized the opportunity of +taking an early breakfast. The guides meanwhile +wriggled about on their stomachs, with eyes starting +out of their heads, possessed by an extraordinary +desire to miss no single movement of the object of +their attention. <q>See, it moves,</q> said Franz in a +whisper. <q>Himmel! it is feeding,</q> said Burgener. +<q>It must be the same that Johann saw three weeks +ago.</q> <q>Ach! no, that was but a little one</q> (no true +chamois hunter will ever allow that a brother sportsman +can possibly have set eyes on a larger animal +than himself). <q>Truly it is fine.</q> <q>Thunder weather! +it moves its head.</q> In their excitement I regretted +that I could not share, not being well versed in +hunting craft: my own experience of sport in the Alps +being limited to missing one marmot that was sitting +on a rock licking its paws. In due course the chamois +walked away. Apparently much relieved by there being +no further necessity to continue in their former uncomfortable +attitudes, the guides sat up and fell to a +warm discussion as to the size of the animal. A +chamois is to a guide as a fish to the baffled angler +or the last new baby to a monthly nurse, and is +always pronounced to be beyond question the finest +<pb n='74'/><anchor id='Pg074'/>that has ever been seen. To this they agreed generally, +but Franz, whose spirits had suddenly evaporated, +now shook his head dismally, with the remark +that it was unlucky to see a single chamois, and that we +should have no success that day. Undaunted by his +croaking, we pursued our way to the right side of the +glacier, while our guide, who had a ballad appropriate +to every occasion, sang rather gaspingly a tremulous +little funeral dirge. We worked well across to the +right, in order to obtain the best possible view of the +Aiguille, and halted repeatedly while discussing the +best point at which to attack the rocks. While thus +engaged in reconnoitring close under the cliffs of the +ridge running between the Aiguille Moine and the +Aiguille Verte, a considerable block of ice, falling from +the rocks above, whizzed past just in front of us and +capered gaily down the slope. Hereupon we came +rather rapidly to the conclusion that we had better +proceed. Half an hour further on we reached the +top of a steep little snow slope, and a point secure +from falling stones and ice. Recognising that we must +soon cross back to the rocks of the Dru, we tried to +come to a final conclusion as to the way to be chosen. +As usual, everybody pointed out different routes: +even a vestry meeting could hardly have been less +unanimous. Some one now ventured to put a question +that had been troubling in reality our minds for some +time past, viz. which of the peaks that towered above +<pb n='75'/><anchor id='Pg075'/>us was really the Aiguille du Dru. On the left there +were two distinct points which, though close together, +were separated apparently by a deep rift, and some +distance to the right of the col which the previous +party had tried to reach, a sharp tooth of rock towered +up to a considerable height. Evidently, however, +from its position this latter needle could not be +visible from Chamouni or from the Montanvert. +Again, it was clear that the mass comprising the two +points close together must be visible from the valley, +but which of the two was the higher? Alexander +gave as his opinion that the more distant of these +two points, that on the right, was the higher, and +turned to the porter for confirmation. That worthy +nodded his head affirmatively with extreme sagacity, +evidently implying that he was of the same opinion. +Franz on the other hand thought the left-hand peak +was the one that we ought to make for, arguing that +it most resembled the Dru as seen from the Montanvert, +that there was probably little difference in height +between the two, that our ascent would not be believed +in unless we were to place a flag on the point visible +from Chamouni, and finally that the left-hand peak +seemed to be the easier, and would probably be found +to conceal the sharper point of the right-hand summit. +Having expressed these views, he in turn looked +towards the porter to ascertain his sentiments. The +porter, who was evidently of a complaisant +tempera<pb n='76'/><anchor id='Pg076'/>ment, nodded his head very vigorously to intimate +that these arguments seemed the more powerful of +the two to his mind, and then cocked his head on +one side in a knowing manner, intended to express +that he was studying the angles and that he was +prepared to find himself in the right whichever view +prevailed. We did not find out for certain till some +time after that the right-hand summit, though concealed +from view by the Montanvert, is very distinctly +visible from Chamouni: excusable ignorance, as most +of the Chamouni people are unaware of it to this day. +Professor Forbes, as Mr. Douglas Freshfield has kindly +pointed out to me, with his usual accuracy distinguished +and also measured the two summits, giving +their heights respectively as 12,178, and 12,245 feet.<note place="foot"><hi rend='italic'>Travels in the Alps</hi>, p. 119.</note> +Knowing little as we did then of the details of the +mountain, we followed Franz’s advice and made for +the left-hand peak, under the impression that if one +proved accessible the other might also, and there really +seemed no reason why we should not, if occasion +demanded, ascend both. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Doubts as to the peak</note> + +<p> +Leading up from the glacier two distinct lines of +attack presented themselves. The right-hand ridge +descends to the col very precipitously, but still we had +some idea that the rocks did not look wholly impossible. +Again, on the left of the Dru the rocks are cut +away very abruptly and form the long precipitous +<pb n='77'/><anchor id='Pg077'/>ridge seen from the Montanvert. This ridge was so +jagged that we could see no possible advantage in +climbing to any part of it, except just at the termination +where it merges into the south-western face of the +main mountain. The choice therefore, in our judgment, +lay between storming the mountain by the face +right opposite to us or else making for the col and the +right-hand ridge; but the latter was the route that +Messrs. Pendlebury and Kennedy had followed, and we +could not hope to succeed where such giants had failed. +Burgener indeed wished to try, but the rest of the +party were unanimously in favour of attempting to +find a way up the face, a route that at the worst had +the merit of novelty. We thought too that if a +closer acquaintance proved that the crags were ill +arranged for upward locomotion, we might be able to +work round on the face and so reach the col by a +more circuitous route. With the naked eye—especially +a myopic one—the rocks appeared unpromising +enough; while viewed through the telescope the rocks +looked utterly impossible. But little faith, however, can +be rested in telescopic observations of a mountain, so +far as the question of determining a route is concerned. +Amateurs, who, as a rule, understand the use of a telescope +much better than guides, have not the requisite +experience to determine the value of what they see, +while but few guides see enough to form any basis for +determination. Moreover, the instrument we carried +<pb n='78'/><anchor id='Pg078'/>with us, though it had an extraordinary number of +sections and pulled out like the ill-fated tradesman’s +trousers in a pantomime, was not a very remarkable +one in the matter of definition. Still it is always proper +and orthodox to look at a new peak through the telescope, +and we were determined not to neglect any +formality on the present occasion. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Telescopic observations</note> + +<p> +We were now rather more than half-way up the +Glacier de la Charpoua. To reach the most promising-looking +point at which we might hope to get on the +rocks, it was necessary to travel straight across the +snow at about the level on which we stood. Now, +this Glacier de la Charpoua is not constructed on +ordinary principles. Instead of the orthodox transverse +bergschrund it possesses a longitudinal crack +running up its whole length, a peculiarity that vexed +us hugely. Half a dozen times did we attempt to cross +by some tempting-looking bridge, but on each occasion +we were brought to a stand by impassable crevasses; +then had to turn back, go up a little farther, and try +again. It was already late in the day and we could ill +spare the time lost in this to and fro movement. +Eventually we reached a little patch of rocks not far +from the head of the glacier. No sooner had we reached +these rocks than the guides hunted up a suitable place +and concealed some utterly worthless property as carefully +as if they expected evil-minded marauders to be +wandering about, seeking what they might pilfer. +<pb n='79'/><anchor id='Pg079'/>Having effected the cache with due care, Franz once +again burst into a strange carol, the burden of which +was unintelligible, but the chorus made frequent +allusion to <q>der Teufel.</q> We now saw that, after all, +the only feasible plan would be to cut our way still +higher up a steep slope, and thus to work right round, +describing a large curve. An occasional step required +to be scraped, for the glacier is in shadow till late in +the morning, owing to the Aiguille Verte intervening +and cutting off the sun’s rays. Throughout the day +our second guide had been burning with a desire to +exhibit the good qualities of the most portentous ice +axe I ever saw, an instrument of an unwieldy character +resembling a labourer’s pick on the top of a +May pole. Its dimensions were monstrous and its +weight preposterous: moreover, the cutting spike had +an evil curve and, instead of hewing out blocks of ice +neatly, preferred to ram a huge hole in the slope and +stick fast therein, while a quiver ran through its +mighty frame and communicated itself to the striker, +who shuddered at each blow as after taking a dose of +very bitter physic. However, Franz was so proud of +his halberd that we were obliged to sacrifice rapid +progress to the consideration of his feelings, and he +was accordingly sent on to cut the steps which were +now found necessary. With no little exertion did he +construct a staircase of which the steps were about the +size of foot baths, and with no slight impatience did +<pb n='80'/><anchor id='Pg080'/>we watch his gymnastics and athletic flourishes, which +were a sort of mixture of tossing the caber and throwing +the hammer combined with a touch of polo. +Ultimately we were able to quit the glacier for the +actual face of the mountain, at a point probably not +very much below that struck by the previous party; +but it was our intention at once to bear off to the left. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Franz and his mighty axe</note> + +<p> +We blundered a little on the rocks at first after +the long spell of snow-walking. A cry from Franz +caused us to look round, and we perceived that he +had got entangled with the big axe, the spike of which +was sticking into the third button of his waistcoat, +causing him, as the strain on the rope above and +below folded him up in a rather painful manner, to +assume the attitude of a mechanical toy monkey on a +stick. Fearing that he might be placed in the condition +in which cats’ meat is usually offered for sale, we +slackened the rope and saved him from impending +perforation, but with the result that the axe bounded +off down the slope, turned two or three summersaults, +and then stuck up defiantly in a distant patch of snow, +looking like a sign-post. While Franz went off to recover +his loved treasure we huddled together on a very +little ledge of rock, and sat there in a row like busts +on a shelf—if the simile be not considered anatomically +inappropriate. But these delays had wasted +much time, and already success seemed doubtful. +Little time could now be devoted to consultation, and +<pb n='81'/><anchor id='Pg081'/>little good would have come of it; now that we were +on the rocks the only thing to do was to go straight +on and see what would happen. At the same time we +had a dim consciousness that we were considerably to +the right of the best line of ascent. Our <q>general +idea</q>—to borrow a military phrase of which, by the +way, it may be remarked that the idea in question is +usually confined to the general and is not shared in +by the troops—consisted in making for the left-hand +side or Montanvert aspect of the final peak. We set +our teeth, whatever that may mean, then fell to with +a will and for some two hours went with scarcely a +check. And a rare two hours’ climb we had. The +very thought of it makes the pen travel swiftly over +the paper, as the scene comes back in every detail. +How Burgener led the way without hesitation and +almost without mistake; how our second guide chattered +unceasingly, caring nought for a listener; how +they both stuck to the rocks like limpets; how the big +axe got in everybody’s way; how the rope got caught +on every projecting spur of rock, jerking back the unwary, +or when loose sweeping down showers of small +angular stones from the little platforms and ridges, +thereby engendering ill blood and contumely; how +the silent porter climbed stolidly after us, and in the +plenitude of his taciturn good-humour poked at us +from below with his staff at inconvenient moments +and in sensitive places; how at one moment we were +<pb n='82'/><anchor id='Pg082'/>flat against the rock, all arms and legs, like crushed +spiders, and at another gathered into great loops like +a cheese maggot on the point of making a leap; how +a volley of little stones came whistling cheerily down +from above, playfully peppering us all round; how +our spirits rose with our bodies till we became as +excited as children: of all these things it boots not to +give any detailed description. Those who can recollect +similar occasions need but to be reminded of them, +and, to tell the truth, the minutiæ, though they are +so graven upon the mind that a clear impression could +be struck off years afterwards, are apt to prove somewhat +tedious. Two facts I may note. One, that the +rocks were at first very much easier than was expected; +another, that we should have done better had we discarded +the rope on this part of the climb: the rocks +were hardly a fit place for those who could not dispense +with its use. Ever and anon the guides’ spirits would +rise to that level which may be called the shouting +point, and they would jödel till they were black in the +face, while the melodious roll of sound echoed cheerily +back from the distant cliffs of the Aiguille Moine. +And so we journeyed up. +</p> + +<note place="margin">A start in the wrong direction</note> + +<p> +Meanwhile the weather had changed; black +clouds had come rolling up and were gathering +ominously above us; it was evident that we had no +chance of reaching the summit that day, even if it +were practicable, but still we persevered desperately +<pb n='83'/><anchor id='Pg083'/>in the hope of seeing some possible route for a future +attack. Progress, however, on a rock peak is necessarily +slow when there are five on the rope, and we +should probably have done more wisely if we had +divided into two parties. We kept well to the left to +a point on the face where a huge tower of rock stands +four-square to all the winds of heaven that blow; and +above us, as a matter of fact, there seemed to be a +good many winds. This landmark, very conspicuous +and characteristic of these aiguilles, seemed to be +close to the ridge, but on reaching it we found that +there was still a stiff passage intervening between us +and the point from which we could overlook the other +side of the mountain. Now we bore to the right and +the climbing became more difficult. We made our +way straight up a very shallow gully and finally +reached a point on the western ridge overlooking +the Montanvert, close to where this ridge merges into +the corresponding face of the peak. Here a halt was +called, for two reasons. In the first place a few flakes +of snow were softly falling around and the gathering +clouds betokened more to follow. Secondly, so far as +we could judge through the mist, it was apparently impossible +to ascend any higher from the place we had +reached. So we cast off the rope and clambered separately +to various points of vantage to survey the work +that lay before us. The summit of the peak, enveloped +in thin cloud, appeared to tower no great height above +<pb n='84'/><anchor id='Pg084'/>us, but we were too close under the cliff to estimate its +elevation very correctly. At the time we thought that +if we could only keep up the pace at which we had been +going, an hour’s climb would have sufficed to reach +the top. We found, it may be remarked parenthetically, +that we were egregiously in error in this +estimate some years later. The shifting clouds made +the rock face—that is, the small extent of it that we +could see at all—look much more difficult than in +all probability it actually was. Through the mists we +made out, indistinctly, a formidable-looking irregular +crack in the rock face running very straight up and +rather to our left, which apparently constituted the +only possible route from our position to a higher level. +But from where we stood we could not have reached +the lower end of this crack without a ladder of about +fifty feet in length, and the mist entirely prevented us +from judging whether we could reach it by a détour. +The choice lay between hunting for some such line or +else in trying what seemed on the whole more practicable, +viz. working round by the north-east face again, +so as to search for a more easy line of ascent. +But the latter alternative would have involved of +necessity a considerable descent. While we debated +what course to take the mists swept up thicker and +thicker from below, and in a moment the peak above +us was concealed and all the view cut off. A +piercingly cold wind began to rise and a sharp storm +<pb n='85'/><anchor id='Pg085'/>of hail and sleet descended. Hints were dropped +about the difficulty of descending rocks glazed over +with ice with a proper amount of deliberation. It +was obviously impossible to go up and might soon become +very difficult to go down. The question was not +actually put, but, in conformity with what was evidently +the general sense of the meeting, we somewhat reluctantly +made up our minds to return. A dwarf stone +man was constructed, the rope readjusted, and half an +hour’s descent put us out of the mist and snow. We +stopped again and stared upwards blankly at the leve +line of mist hanging heavily against the peak. +Burgener now came forward with a definite resolution +and proposed that we should stay where we were for +the night and try again the next day. This was referred +to a sub-committee, who reported against the +suggestion on the ground that the stock of provisions +left consisted of a tablespoonful of wine, four rolls, +and a small piece of cheese which had strayed from +the enveloping paper in the porter’s pocket and as a +consequence smelt of tobacco and was covered with hairs +and fluff. These articles of diet were spread on a +rock and we mentally calculated the exact proportion +that would fall to each man’s share if we attempted, +as proposed, to subsist on them for a day and a half. +But little deliberation was required. We decided at +once to return. The porter gathered the fragments +lovingly together and replaced them with other curious +<pb n='86'/><anchor id='Pg086'/>articles in his side pocket. By 8.30 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> we were back +at Chamouni, having been out a little under twenty +hours. +</p> + +<note place="margin">An adjournment</note> + +<p> +A day or two later we made up our minds to start +once more. Great preparations were made for an +early departure, the idea that we should find it +distasteful to start at the hour at which a London +ball begins being scouted, as it usually is over-night. +We impressed on an intelligent <q>boots</q> with great +earnestness the absolute necessity of waking us precisely +at midnight, and then went to our repose, feeling +about as much inclined for sleep as a child does during +the afternoon siesta intended to prepare it for the +glories of a pantomime. The <q>boots</q> did not fail; in +fact he was extra-punctual, as our departure was the +signal for his retiring. At midnight the party +assembled in the little courtyard in front of the hotel, +but a dismal sight met our gaze. Under the influence +of a warm sou’-wester, thick black clouds had filled the +valley, and a gentle drizzle reminded us of the balmy +climate of our own metropolis in November. Our Alpine +tour for the season was nearly at an end, and we gazed +despondently around. Ultimately one practical person +suggested that if we did not go to the mountain we +might as well go to bed, and the practical person +endorsed his suggestion by walking off. A scurvy +practical joke did the clerk of the weather play on us +that night. In the morning the bright sunbeams +<pb n='87'/><anchor id='Pg087'/>came streaming in through the window, the sky was +cloudless and the outline of every peak was sharply +defined in the clear air. A more perfect morning for +the expedition could hardly have been chosen. Some +ill-timed remarks at breakfast referring pointedly to +people who talk a good deal over-night about early +starts, and the deep concern of the <q>boots</q> at our +presumed slothfulness, goaded us to desperation. We +determined to start again and to have one more try +the next day whatever the weather might prove to be. +Once more we found ourselves in the small hours of +the morning on the path leading to Les Ponts. Had +it not been for the previous day’s lesson we should +probably have turned back from this point, for the +whole of the mountain opposite was concealed in thick +drifting mist. The guides flatly refused to go on as +matters stood. We were determined on our side not +to give it up, and so a compromise was effected. It +was agreed to wait for an hour or two and see if +matters mended. So we stretched ourselves out on a +damp sloping rock, prepared to resume our journey +at the slightest indication of a change for the better. +Rest at such a time even under these hard, not to say +stony, conditions is seductive, and, as we lay half +dozing, strange heretical thoughts came crowding into +the mind. Why toil up this mountain when one can +rest in luxury on these knobby rocks? Why labour over +the shifting moraine, the deceitful glacier, the slippery +<pb n='88'/><anchor id='Pg088'/>rock? What is the good of it all? Can it be vanity +or——<q>Vorwärts!</q> The dream vanished as the cheery +cry broke out from the guide engaged on outpost duty, +and as we rose and stretched ourselves the whole +aspect of affairs seemed changed. A distinct break +in the clouds at the head of the Mer de Glace gave +promise of better things in store, and we felt almost +guilty of having wasted an hour or more at our halt. +The break became larger and larger, and before long +the great cloud banks resolved into one huge streamer +flying from the summit of the peak. I fancy that, at +any rate in the early stages of mountaineering, many +good chances are thrown away on such days, for +guides are as a rule somewhat prone to despondency +in the early morning hours. Once started, however, +they became wondrously keen, complained of our +delay, and even asserted with some effrontery that +they had predicted fine weather all the time, and this +without a blush; still some one rather neatly defined +blushing as a suffusion least seldom seen in those who +have the most occasion for it, and guides share with +politicians a certain power of manipulating their +opinions to suit the exigencies of the moment. The +traces of our former attempt assisted us materially +on the glacier. Our plan of attack consisted in getting +on the rocks at our former point, but working on this +occasion much more directly up the face. Burgener +conceived that by following this line of assault we +<pb n='89'/><anchor id='Pg089'/>should be able to ascend, by means of a gully which +existed only in his own imagination, to a more practicable +part of the peak. Between the two summits +of the Aiguille du Dru may be seen, at any rate in +photographs, a tempting-looking streak of snow: it +seemed possible, if we could once reach the lower +point of this streak, to follow its line upwards. The +lower peak of the Dru is well rounded on its eastern +face, and the rocks appear more broken than in other +parts of the mountain. +</p> + +<note place="margin">The expedition resumed</note> + +<p> +If we could but once reach the cleft between the +peaks there seemed every chance of our being able to +reach the lower summit. At the outset progress was +fast. We followed our former line till we were in sight +of the rock tower and then at once bore off to the right. +The climbing was rather more difficult, at least it +seemed so to us in those days, than on the other part +of the mountain with which we had previously made +acquaintance. A series of short flat gullies had to be +climbed, but there were exceedingly few inequalities to +help us. The rope was of little or no use and might +perhaps have been laid aside with advantage. We +soon found that we had reached a higher point than +at our previous attempt, and as the leader constantly +returned favourable reports our spirits rose; so elated +in fact did we become that the exact formalities to be +observed on reaching the top were seriously discussed +whenever the occasion offered for conversation, which +<pb n='90'/><anchor id='Pg090'/>was not very often. Old Franz chattered away to +himself, as was his wont when matters went well, and +on looking back on one occasion I perceived the +strange phenomenon of a smile illuminating the +porter’s features. Howbeit, this worthy spake no +words of satisfaction, but pulled ever at his empty pipe. +By dint of wriggling over a smooth sloping stone slab +we had got into a steep rock gully which promised to +lead us to a good height. Burgener, assisted by much +pushing and prodding from below and aided on his +own part by much snorting and some strong language, +had managed to climb on to a great overhanging +boulder that cut off the view from the rest of the +party below. As he disappeared from sight we +watched the paying out of the rope with as much +anxiety as a fisherman eyes his vanishing line when +the salmon runs. Presently the rope ceased to move +and we waited for a few moments in suspense. We +felt that the critical moment of the expedition had +arrived, and the fact that our own view was exceedingly +limited made us all the more anxious to hear the +verdict. <q>How does it look?</q> we called out. The +answer came back in patois, a bad sign in such emergencies. +For a minute or two an animated conversation +was kept up; then we decided to take another opinion +and accordingly hoisted up our second guide. The +chatter was redoubled. <q>What does it look like?</q> we +shouted again. <q>Not possible from where we are,</q> +<pb n='91'/><anchor id='Pg091'/>was the melancholy answer, and in a tone that crashed +at once all our previous elation. I could not find +words at the moment to express my disappointment: +but the porter could and gallantly he came to the +rescue. He opened his mouth for the first time and +spoke, and he said very loud indeed that it was +<q>verdammt.</q> Precisely: that is just what it was. +Having made this short speech, the porter allowed the +smile to fade away from his features, shook out some +imaginary ashes and proceeded to light some visionary +tobacco, sucking at a lighted match through the +medium of an empty pipe. It seemed hard to believe +at first that we were to be baulked when so near the +summit, and it was not till the guides had tried again +and again to storm the almost vertical wall of smooth +rock and had shown the utter impossibility of turning +it either right or left, that we felt we were really +beaten. One more forlorn chance remained: we +might try the west face of the mountain from the +spot we had reached at our first attempt, when the +weather had prevented us from making any further +progress. Had there been more time at our disposal +we should have done better to try another line of +ascent more to our right, that is, nearer to the col, +and it might be possible to reach the cleft between the +two summits by this means. As for the snow streak +which looked so tempting at a distance, it is a delusion +and a snare, if the latter term be applicable to a place +<pb n='92'/><anchor id='Pg092'/>which appears to be much more difficult to get into +than it probably would be to get out of. We had +already pretty fully realised that the mountain was +more difficult to ascend than we had ever contemplated, +and it seemed advisable at the moment to make for +some definite point which at any rate we felt sure of +reaching and to study the peak in detail to the best of +our ability; so we made towards our cairn, though +with little hope of gaining much knowledge thereby. +</p> + +<note place="margin">A sticking point</note> + +<p> +Without much difficulty, but not without some +little danger from falling stones (though on the whole, +the mountain is remarkably free from these annoyances, +there being as a matter of fact but few loose +stones to fall), we reached our former point and were +able to judge distinctly of how much higher we had +reached at our second attempt. We saw also that upward +progress from the point on which we stood would +not be possible, but it must be remembered that we were +able only to see a small strip of the mountain lying +directly above. Every crag that was not absolutely +vertical appeared to overhang, and the few small cracks +that might have afforded hand and foot hold led nowhere +in particular. Altogether the view was depressing +although limited. There was no time to hunt about +for other routes, or we should certainly have done so, +for we felt that though beaten our discomfiture only +arose from the fact that we had chosen a wrong line +of ascent. Possibly within a few yards of us lay a +<pb n='93'/><anchor id='Pg093'/>feasible route, but we knew not on which side it might +be. Here it occurred to the porter for the first time +that his pipe was empty and had been so all day: he +thereupon made his second remark, which consisted +in an audible request for something to put in it. We +had dragged up with us (as a matter of fact the +porter had carried it the whole time) some 200 feet of +rope, thinking it might help us in the descent, but the +part of the mountain on which we were presents no +more difficulties in this respect than does Avernus. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Beaten back</note> + +<p> +Arrived on the snow slope opposite the rock face +on which we had been climbing during the day, we +stopped, extended the telescope, and tried to make +out our exact line, and endeavoured also to discover +what had been our error; no easy task, as any persons +of experience will admit. At any time the appearance +of this peak is deceptive, and the outline no more +guides you to a knowledge of the natural details than +does the outline of a fashionable lady’s dress. But +as we looked the mountain seemed flattened out by +reason of a blue evening mist which obscured all +the irregularities. So we turned and resumed our +journey down, running hard across the Mer de Glace, +for the shades of night drew on apace, and reached +Chamouni at 8.30 in the evening, leaving the guides +at the Montanvert with half a bottle of thin red wine +between three of them. We were overtaken by Edouard +Cupelin, one of the best of the Chamouni guides, at +<pb n='94'/><anchor id='Pg094'/>any rate on rock mountains, on our way down, and he +gave us a rather sensational account of his own adventures +on the peak. In justice to him it should +be mentioned that he was almost the only Chamouni +guide who seemed to think the ascent possible, and in +his opinion the general line that we had adopted was +the correct one. Our second expedition thus from first +to last occupied about 20½ hours, but the halts were not +nearly so numerous as on the first occasion. The +experience of our two days’ climbing led us to the +conclusion that Cupelin was right. From the peculiar +character of the rocks and the fact that our +climbing lay chiefly along short flat gullies we were +unable, as already remarked, to get a very clear idea +of any part of the mountain except that on which +we were actually engaged, and we were led to the +opinion that the only plan to find a possible route +would consist in trying in succession from below the +different parts of the southern face. The final peak, +which from this side shoots up clearly defined from +the great mass of the mountain, seemed to us tolerably +easy of ascent provided one could reach the +base. A sort of depression extends three parts of the +way round, and the edge of this shallow moat appeared +to be defended by an inaccessible belt of vertical +rock. The actual rocks were wholly unlike any met with +elsewhere in our experience. Great vertical slabs were +fitted together with an accuracy which was beautiful +<pb n='95'/><anchor id='Pg095'/>in its perfection, but irritating beyond conception to +the climber. Progress upwards, when above the level +of the col, necessitated a series of fatiguing gymnastics +like swimming uphill, but the rocks where +they were possible proved invariably firm and good. +On both occasions we were stopped by sheer difficulty +and probably saw the mountain at its very best. The +snow on the rocks, which proved such a formidable +difficulty to Mr. Pendlebury’s party, had almost entirely +disappeared before our assault. The rocks were +warm and the weather on the second day was perfect. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Results gained</note> + +<p> +Such is the history of our first two attempts to +climb this mountain. They served but to whet our +appetite for success, but it was not till years after that +we were fortunate enough to meet with that success. +</p> + +</div><div type="chapter" n="4" rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb n='96'/><anchor id='Pg096'/> +<index index="toc" level1="IV. A day across country"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="IV. A day across country"/> +<head>CHAPTER IV.</head> + +<head type="sub">A DAY ACROSS COUNTRY</head> + +<argument><p> +The art of meteorological vaticination—The climate we leave our +homes for—Observations in the valley—The diligence arrives +and shoots its load—Types of travellers—The Alpine habitué—The +elderly spinster on tour—A stern Briton—A family party—We +seek fresh snow-fields—The Bietschhorn—A <anchor id="corr096"/><corr sic="sepulchra">sepulchral</corr> +bivouac—On early starts and their curious effects on the temperament—A +choice of routes—A deceptive ice gully—The +avalanches on the Bietschhorn—We work up to a dramatic +situation—The united party nearly fall out—A limited panorama—A +race for home—Caught out—A short cut—Driven to extremities—The +water jump—An aged person comes to the rescue—A +classical banquet at Ried—The old curé and his hospitality—A +wasted life? +</p></argument> + +<p> +The summer season of 1878 was one of the worst +on record. Meteorologists, by a species of climatic +paradox, might have had a fine time of it; mountaineers +had a most wet and disagreeable time of it. +The weather prophets easily established a reputation +for infallibility—according to the accepted modern +standard of vaticination—by predicting invariably +evil things. They were thus right five times out of +six, which will readily be acknowledged as very creditable +in persons who were uninspired, save by a desire +<pb n='97'/><anchor id='Pg097'/>to exalt themselves in the eyes of their fellow tourists. +But, as in the case of that singularly hopeful person +Tantalus, the torture was rendered more artistic and +aggravating by sporadic promise of better things. +One day the rock aiguilles were powdered over and +white-speckled with snow. The climber looked up +longingly at the heights above, but visions of +numbing cold and frost-bitten fingers caused him to +thrust the latter members into his pockets and turn +away with a sigh, to put it mildly, and avert his gaze +from the chilling spectacle. Then would he follow his +daily practice—his thrice-a-daily practice in all probability—of +overeating himself. Perhaps, while still +engaged at <hi rend='italic'>table d’hôte</hi> in consuming, at any rate in +masticating, the multiform dish generically named +<q>chevreuil,</q> the glow of a rosy sunset, and the hope +of brighter things in store for the morrow, would +attract him to the window. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Autres temps, autres mœurs</note> + +<p> +The next day would produce scorching heat, a clear +sky, a rising barometer, and a revival of spirits; diet, as +the physicians say, as before. The powdered snow would +disappear off the ledges and, melting, distribute itself +more uniformly over the rocks, which as a result presented +a shining appearance, as the morning face of a +schoolboy or the Sunday face of a general servant. At +night a clear sky and a sharp frost in the high regions, +and the next day the mountain would be more impossible +than ever. Still, recognising that another few hours +<pb n='98'/><anchor id='Pg098'/>of grateful sunshine would cause the thin film of ice +glazing the rocks to melt and evaporate, the energetic +climber (and we were very energetic that year) would +summon his guides and all his resolution, pack up his +traps, and start for a bivouac up aloft, to return, in all +probability, at the end of twenty-four hours, in a downfall +of rain and in the condition of steamy moisture so +tersely described by Mr. Mantalini. Such, during July +1878, was our lot day after day in the glorious Alpine +climate. We paced up and down, with the regularity +of sentries, between our camp on the Aiguille du Dru +and Couttet’s hotel at Chamouni. Occasionally we +ascended some distance up the Glacier de la Charpoua +and took observations. Once or twice we proceeded +far enough on the rocks of the Aiguille du Dru to +prove the impossibility of ascending them to any +great height. Still we were loth to depart and run +the risk of losing a favourable opportunity of assaulting +the mountain with any chance of success. It fell +out thus that we had good opportunities of observing +our fellow creatures and the various types of travellers +who, notwithstanding the weather, still crowded into +Chamouni; for it was only on rock peaks such as the +Aiguille du Dru, or difficult mountains like the +Aiguille Verte, that climbing was impossible. This +condition of things did not affect to any very +appreciable extent the perambulating peasants who +constitute the vast majority of the body known as +<pb n='99'/><anchor id='Pg099'/>guides in Chamouni. These worthies merely loafed a +little more than they were wont to do, if that be +possible. Perhaps the gathering invariably to be +found, during twenty hours out of the twenty-four, +at the cross roads near Tairraz’s shop was still more +numerously attended, and there was some slight increase +in the number of sunburnt individuals who +found intellectual exercise sufficient to apologise for +their existence in wearing their hands in their pockets, +smoking indifferent tobacco, expectorating indiscriminately, +and uttering statements devoid of sense or +point to anybody who cared to listen. The weather +had no effect on them; whether wet or dry, cold or +warm, they still occupied themselves from June to +September in the same manner. Once in the early +morning, and once again about five o’clock in the +evening, were they momentarily galvanised out of their +listlessness by the arriving and departing diligences. +</p> + +<note place="margin">The diligence arrives</note> + +<p> +On the arrival of the caravan the contingent was +usually reinforced by some of our own countrymen. +The proper attitude for the English visitor at +Chamouni to assume, when watching the evening +incursion of tourists, consisted in leaning against the +wall on the south side of the street, and so to pose +himself as to indicate independence of the proceedings +and to wear an expression of indifference tinged with +a suggestion of cynical humour. This was usually +accomplished by wearing the hands in the pockets, +<pb n='100'/><anchor id='Pg100'/>tilting the hat a little over the eyes, crossing the legs, +and laughing unduly at the remarks of companions, +whether audible or not. Some few considered that +smoking a wooden pipe assisted the realisation of the +effect intended: others apparently held that a heavy +object held in the mouth interfered with the expression. +I have observed that these same onlookers were bitterly +indignant at the ordeal they had to pass through on +returning to their native shores viâ Folkestone, when +clambering wearily with leaden eyes and sage-green +complexions up the pier steps. Yet the diligence +travellers, begrimed with dust, stung of horse flies, +cramped, choked, and so jolted that they recognised +more bony prominences than previous anatomical +knowledge had ever led them to expect they possessed, +were none the less objects of pity. Still human nature +is always worthy of study, and those who arrived, +together with those who went to see them arrive, were +equally interesting under the depressing climatic influences +which so often forbade us to take our pleasure +elsewhere. +</p> + +<note place="margin">The Alpine habitue</note> + +<p> +It was curious to note how, day after day, the diligence +on its arrival released from the cramped thraldom +of its uncomfortable seats almost exactly the same +load. As the great lumbering yellow vehicle came +within sight, one or two familiar faces would be seen +craning out to catch the first sight of an old guide or +mountain friend. These <hi rend='italic'>habitués</hi> as a rule secured +<pb n='101'/><anchor id='Pg101'/>for themselves the corner seats. We knew exactly +what their luggage would be. A bundle of axes like +Roman <q>fasces</q> would be handed out first, with perhaps +a little unnecessary ostentation, followed by a coil +of rope which might have been packed up in the portmanteau, +but usually was not; then a knapsack, with +marks on the back like a map of the continent of +America if the owner was an old hand, and a spotless +minute check if he were only trying to look like +one. The owners of the knapsacks would be clad in +suits that once were dittos, flannel shirts and the +familiar British wide-awake, the new aspirants for +mountaineering fame decorating their head gear with +snow spectacles purchased in Geneva. Very business-like +would they show themselves in collecting their +luggage before anybody else; then, with a knowing +look at the mountains, they would make their way +to Couttet’s. Next, perhaps, would follow a party of +some two or three spinsters travelling alone and as +uncertain about their destination as they were of their +age. To attract such, some of the hotel proprietors, +more astute than their fellows, despatched to the +scene of action porters of cultivated manners and +obsequious demeanour, who seldom failed, by proving +themselves to be <q>such nice polite men, my dear,</q> +to ensnare the victims. Burdened with the numerous +parcels and odd little bags this class of traveller +greatly affects, the nicely mannered porter would lead +<pb n='102'/><anchor id='Pg102'/>the way to the hotel or pension, probably bestowing, +as he passed, a wink on some friend among the guides, +who recognised at once the type of tourist that would +inevitably visit the Montanvert, probably the Chapeau +and possibly the Flégère, and recognising too the type +in whom judicious compliments were not likely to be +invested without satisfactory results. Such people +invariably enquired if they could not be taken <hi rend='italic'>en +pension</hi>. Somewhat frugal as regards diet, especially +breakfast, but with astounding capacities for swallowing +<hi rend='italic'>table d’hôte</hi> dinners or such romance as the +guides might be pleased to invent on the subject of +their own prowess and exploits. Charming old ladies +these often were, as pleased with the novelty of everything +they saw around them as a gutter child in a +country meadow. Their nature changes marvellously +in the Alps. Scarcely should we recognise in the +small wiry traveller in the mountains the same individual +whom we might meet in town—say in the +neighbourhood of Bloomsbury. I have noticed such +a one not a hundred miles from there whose energy +for sight-seeing when in the Alps surpassed all belief. +Yet here she seemed but a little, wrinkled, bent-in-the-back +old woman, flat of foot, reckless at crossings, +finding difficulty on Sunday mornings in fishing a +copper out of her reticule for the crossing sweeper, by +reason of the undue length of the finger-tips to her +one-buttoned black kid gloves, and accompanied on +<pb n='103'/><anchor id='Pg103'/>week days, perhaps for the sake of contrast, by a +sprightly little black and tan dog of so arrogant a +disposition that it declined to use in walking all the +legs which Providence had furnished it. Next, +perhaps, the British paterfamilias, who might or might +not be a clergyman, most intractable of tourists; ever +prone to combine instruction with amusement for the +benefit of his bored family, slightly relaxing on week +days, but rigid and austere on Sundays beyond conception. +And then the foreign sub-Alpine walker or +<q>intrépide,</q> clad in special garments of local make +and highly vaunted efficiency, garrulous, smoky, +voracious, a trifle greasy, and dealing habitually in +ecstatic hendecasyllables expressive of admiration of +everything he saw. Next the family party, possibly +with a courier, with whom the younger members were, +as a rule, unduly familiar: the boys wearing tailed +shooting coats, consorting but ill with Eton turn-down +collars, groaning under the burden of green baize bags +containing assorted guide books, strange receptacles +for the umbrellas of the party, and with leathern +wallets slung around their shoulders, stuffed with the +useless articles boys cherish and love to carry with +them; the girls awkwardly conscious and feeling ill +at ease by reason of the practical dresses, boots, and +head gear devised for them at home, looking tenderly +after a collection of weakly sticks tipped with chamois +horns and decorated with a spirally arranged list of +<pb n='104'/><anchor id='Pg104'/>localities; the whole party in an excessively bad +temper, which the boys exhibited by pummelling and +thumping when <q>pa</q> was not looking and the girls +by little sniffs, head tossings, and pointed remarks at +each other that they had no idea what guys they +looked. It will be observed that the constant bad +weather induced a cynical condition of mind. +</p> + +<note place="margin">A family party</note> + +<p> +We made up our minds, notwithstanding the +attractions of this varied company, to quit them for +a while, to seek fresh snow-fields and glaciers new, +and to leave the rocks of the Aiguille du Dru for a +time unmolested. At the suggestion of Jaun we betook +ourselves to the Oberland for a contemplated +ascent of the Bietschhorn by a new route. Under a +tropical sun we made our way by the interminable +zigzags through the Trient valley down to Vernayaz, +where we met again, like the witches in <q>Macbeth,</q> in +thunder and in rain. Our project was to ascend the +Bietschhorn from the Visp side and descend it by the +usual route to Ried. This form of novelty had become +so common in mountaineering that a new word had +been coined expressly to describe such expeditions, +and the climber, if he succeeded in his endeavour, was +said to have <q>colled</q> the peak. The phrase, however, +was only admissible on the first occasion, and it was +subsequently described by any who followed, in more +prosaic terms, as going up one side and down the other. +</p> + +<note place="margin">A sepulchral bivouac</note> + +<p> +We did not experience any unusual difficulty in +<pb n='105'/><anchor id='Pg105'/>leaving Visp tolerably early in the morning. The +chorus of frogs, who were in remarkably fine voice +that night in the neighbouring swamps, kept us +awake, and the proper musical contrast was provided +by the alto humming of some hungry mosquitoes. +Our plan of assault was to camp somewhere at the +head of the Baltschieder Thal, which is a dreary stony +valley with only a few huts that would scarcely be +considered habitable even by a London slum-landlord. +The living inhabitants appeared to consist of three +unkempt children, two pigs, one imbecile old man, +and a dog with a fortuitous family. On the whole, +therefore, we came to the conclusion that nature +would probably provide better accommodation than +the local architectural art, and a short search revealed +a most luxurious bivouac, close to the left moraine of +the Baltschieder Glacier, under the shelter of the +Fäschhorn and a little above the level of the ice fall. +A huge, flat slab of rock formed the roof of a wedge-shaped +cavity capable of holding at least six persons, +if disposed in a horizontal position. The space between +the floor and the roof, it is true, was not much +more than three feet; but the chamber, though well +sheltered, demanded no ventilating tubes to ensure a +proper supply of fresh air. Having a little spare time +and being luxuriously inclined, we decided to sleep on +spring beds. First we swept the stone floor, then +covered it with a thick layer of dry rhododendron +<pb n='106'/><anchor id='Pg106'/>branches, over which were laid large sods of dried +peat grass, and the beds were complete. The pointed +ends of the twigs showed rather a tendency to penetrate +through the grassy covering during the night, +but otherwise the mattresses were all that could be +desired. About two in the morning we got up—that +is, we would have got up had it not been physically +impossible to do so by reason of the lowness of the +roof. A more correct expression would be perhaps to +say that we turned out, rolling from under the shelter +of the slab one after another. By the dim light of an +ineffective candle, poked into the neck of a broken +bottle, we found it no easy matter to collect all the +articles which the guides had of course unpacked +and stowed away as if they were going to stay a week; +indeed, a certain bottle of seltzer water will probably +still be found—at any rate the bottle will—by anyone +who seeks repose in the same quarters. +</p> + +<note place="margin">On early starts</note> + +<p> +We started in the usual frame of mind—that is to +say, everybody was exceedingly facetious for about +three minutes. In about ten minutes one of the +party, who would slake his thirst unduly at a crystal +spring near the bivouac the previous evening, found +that his boot lace was untied; circumstances which +do not seem associated at first sight, but are not, +nevertheless, infrequently observed. So again have +I often remarked that a good dinner overnight +develops in an astonishing manner admiration for +<pb n='107'/><anchor id='Pg107'/>distant views when ascending on the subsequent day. +Within a quarter of an hour the amateurs of the +party ceased to indulge in conversation, their remarks +dying away into a species of pained silence similar to +that which is induced in youthful voluptuaries by the +premature smoking of clay pipes. The guides, however, +seldom if ever desisted from dialogue, and never +for the purpose of listening to each other’s remarks. +Still, the respiratory process is governed by the +same conditions in the case of guides as in other +mortals, and though they would scorn to stoop to the +boot-lace subterfuge, and feel that a sudden admiration +for scenery would deceive no one, they yet found it +necessary before long to distribute their burdens more +equally; a process achieved by halting, untying +several strings, taking out several parcels and replacing +them in the same positions. By these +various methods we acquired what athletes call +<q>second wind</q> and stepped out more strongly. We +crossed a moraine of the usual inconsistency—however, +the subject of loose moraines has been, I fancy, +touched upon by other writers. The Baltschieder +Glacier sweeps at a right angle round a mountain +christened, not very originally, the Breithorn. This +particular member of that somewhat numerous family +blocks up the head of the Baltschieder Thal. We +skirted the north base of the Breithorn, passing between +it and the Jägihorn, and arriving at the top of a +<pb n='108'/><anchor id='Pg108'/>steep little slope came in full view of the eastern +slopes of our objective peak. At this point Maurer +gave vent to a dismal wail of anguish as it suddenly +occurred to him that he had left the bottle of seltzer +water down below. With some difficulty did we persuade +him that it was not necessary to return for it, +although the idea of repose was not wholly distasteful, +but we felt that we had probably all our work cut out +for us in one sense, and that the days were none too +long for such an expedition as the one we had in hand. +Two distinct lines of attack appeared to offer themselves. +One route, more to our right, led upwards by +a gentle curved ridge, chiefly of snow, connecting the +Baltschieder Joch with the northern arête of the +mountain. In 1866 Messrs. D. W. Freshfield and +C. C. Tucker, as we learnt subsequently, attained a +high point by this way and were only prevented from +accomplishing the actual ascent by bad weather, +though they did enough to prove the practicability of +the route. However, this way, which appeared the +easier of the two, was evidently the longer from our +position. The other route had the advantage of lying +straight in front of us. Its attraction consisted of a +broad long gully of snow enclosed between two ridges +of rock. By the dim morning light the snow appeared +easy enough and was evidently in suitable condition: +howbeit, long snow couloirs, at the summit of which +rocks overhang, are not usually to be recommended +<pb n='109'/><anchor id='Pg109'/>when the mountain itself is composed of friable +material. Now it would be difficult to find in the +whole of the Alps a mountain more disposed to cast +stones at its assailants than the Bietschhorn, a fact +of which we were fully aware. Every ascent of this +disintegrating peak so rearranges the rocks that the +next comers would not be wholly without justification +if they pleaded that the details of their ascent were to +a great extent new. Still, mountaineers up to the +present have not been quite reduced to such a far-fetched +claim to novelty, although in these latter days +they have at times come perilously near it. Judging +by the direction of the strata, we felt certain that the +rock ridges must be practicable, and the problem in +mountaineering set before us consisted in finding out +how we might best ascend without subjecting ourselves +to the inconveniences experienced by some of the early +martyrs. +</p> + +<note place="margin">The rocks of the Bietschhorn</note> + +<p> +An early breakfast put fresh strength into us. +It is a common mistake of mountaineers not to +breakfast early enough and not to breakfast often +enough. If it be desired to achieve a long expedition +when there is not likely to be too much spare time, +the wise man will eat something at least every two +hours up to about 10 o’clock in the morning, supposing, +for instance, he started about 2 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> It is +astonishing to notice how the full man gains upon +the empty one on fatiguing snow slopes. We strode +<pb n='110'/><anchor id='Pg110'/>rapidly across the basin of snow called the Jägifirn +and arrived at the foot of the gully. But now we +could see that our suspicions were more than verified: +ugly-looking marks in the snow above indicated falling +stones, and the snow itself was obviously in a +condition prone to avalanches. This danger must +always be present in couloirs to a greater or less extent +in such seasons as the one we were experiencing. +There had been sufficient power of sun to convert the +contents of the gully into what would have been, in +fine weather, a glistening ice slope. But much fresh +snow had fallen recently. It but rarely can happen, +when snow has fallen late in the season or during the +hot months, that the new and the old layers can become +properly amalgamated. If, therefore, there is too +great a thickness of fresh snow to allow of steps being +cut through this into the ice beneath, such couloirs are +unsafe. The mark of a single avalanche due to the +sliding off of the fresh snow on the ice beneath—a +mark easily enough recognised—would deter any save +an unwise person or a novice from attempting such a +line of ascent. The marvellous hereditary instinct so +often attributed to guides in judging of this condition +really reduces itself to a matter of very simple observation +and attention, and one within the reach of +anybody. But travellers in the Alps too often appear +to treat their reasoning faculties like they do their tall +hats, and leave them at home. The question then +<pb n='111'/><anchor id='Pg111'/>was, Were the rocks right or left of this snow gully +practicable? We all agreed that they were, and proceeded +at once to test the accuracy of our opinion. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Avalanches on the Bietschhorn</note> + +<p> +We crossed the bergschrund—that godsend to +writers on mountaineering in search of material to act +as padding—and without dwelling on its insecure bridge +longer than we need now dwell on the subject made +swiftly for some rocks on the left. Scarcely had we +gained them when a rush of snow and ice, of no great +dimensions, but still large enough to be formidable, +obliterated all the tracks we had just made. This +settled the point at once, and we felt that by the rocks +alone would it be proper to force the ascent. While +on the ridge we were safe enough, and had the advantage +as we clambered up of a most commanding position +from whence we could view the frequent avalanches +that swept by. The rain of the previous night, though +it had only lasted for an hour or two, had evidently +had a great effect on the state of the snow, and the +avalanches seemed to pour down almost incessantly: +probably some forty or fifty swept by us while we +climbed by the side of the gully, and our situation +gave rise to that feeling of somewhat pained security +which is experienced when standing on a railway +platform as an express train dashes by; we certainly +felt that some of the downfalls would have +reduced our party to a pulp quite as easily and with +as much unconcern as the train itself. The guides, +<pb n='112'/><anchor id='Pg112'/>who do not perhaps tax their memories very severely +for a parallel on such an occasion, asserted, as they +generally do, that they had never seen anything like +it in the whole course of their lives. They then fell to +whistling, laughed very gaily, and borrowed tobacco +from each other. +</p> + +<note place="margin">A dramatic situation</note> + +<p> +Gradually our difficulties became more pronounced, +and conversation on indifferent topics was discarded, +the remarks being confined to brief exclamations +such as <q>Keep it tight!</q> <q>Don’t touch that one!</q> +<q>Hold on now!</q> <q>You’re treading on my fingers!</q> +<q>The point of your axe is sticking into my stomach!</q> +and similar ejaculations. Once in a way we ascended +for a few feet by the snow, though never quite losing +touch of the rocks, and sank waist deep in the soft +compound filling up the gully. Then we went back to +the rotten rocks for a brief spell, well content to be +more out of the reach of chance fragments of ice +falling down the shoot. It is wonderful to note how +quickly time passes in an exciting climb of this nature; +but our progress was actually rather rapid, so fast +indeed that we did not fully realise at one period that +we were getting into difficulties and that we had without +doubt strayed, Christian-like, from the narrow +path which was evidently the right one. Throughout +the day we were conscious that the climb was too long +to be completed if we made any serious mistake involving +the retracing of steps. Quite suddenly, our +<pb n='113'/><anchor id='Pg113'/>situation became critical: a hurried glance up and +down along the line revealed the fact that each +member of the party had to do all he knew to preserve +his position. The attitudes were ungainly enough to +suggest instantaneous photographs at an ill-selected +movement of four individuals dancing a <q>can-can.</q> +Maurer was engaged apparently in an extremely +close and minute inspection of the toe of his right +boot. Another member of the party was giving a +practical illustration of the fact that he could, by +extreme extension of his arms, stretch more than +his own height, while a third was endeavouring to find +out why the power of co-ordinating his muscular +movements was suddenly lost to him, and why he +could not persuade his left leg to join his right. For +a few moments Jaun, who was leading, hung on by his +finger-tips and the issue of the expedition hung in the +balance. But our leader, by dint of some <anchor id="corr113"/><corr sic="complicate">complicated</corr> +sprawls, transferred himself over a passage of rock on +which we had no earthly reason to be, and assisted +the rest of the party to regain a more promising line +of ascent. For those few minutes the situation was +dramatic enough, and the thought crossed my mind +that the curtain might not improbably descend on it; +a solution of the difficulty which commends itself to +the playwright when he has involved his <hi rend='italic'>dramatis personæ</hi> +in difficulties, but which is not without its +objections to the climber. On the whole the rocks on +<pb n='114'/><anchor id='Pg114'/>this face of the mountain are much more difficult than +on the other, and, writing now after the lapse of some +years, I am disposed to think that these are perhaps +the most difficult crags of any that I have ever met +with to climb properly, that is with a minimum of risk +to one’s self and to one’s companions; as a good +proof of this I may say that the ascent would probably +have appeared fairly easy to a novice and that it +required some little Alpine experience to realise their +real difficulty and their treacherous nature. There +was scarcely time to test adequately all hand and foothold, +and examination of rocks by what surgeons term +palpation is a <hi rend='italic'>sine quâ non</hi> in rock climbing. Undoubtedly +the mountain was not in the best possible +order. We may possibly have rearranged the rocks +in our line of ascent in a more convenient manner for +those who follow. Certainly we may fairly say that +in our actual line of ascent we left no stone unturned +to ensure success. +</p> + +<note place="margin">The united party nearly fall out</note> + +<p> +Close below the ridge—within perhaps ten feet of +it, for if I remember aright our leader had actually +reached the crest—came the climax to what was perhaps +rather a perilous climb. The first and second +on the rope had met in their upward passage a huge +cube of rock whose security they had carefully tested, +and to surmount which it was necessary to stretch +to the fullest extent in order to gain a respectable +hold for the hands. We were all four in a direct line +<pb n='115'/><anchor id='Pg115'/>one below the other, and the two last on the rope were +placed perforce directly beneath the treacherous crag. +By an extension movement which conveyed some +notion of the sensation experienced by those on the +rack, I had reached a handhold pronounced to be of a +passable nature by those above. By this manœuvre +I succeeded in getting my feet exactly to a place on +which the others, who were much heavier than I, had +stood in security; without rhyme or reason the block +of stone, which was about the size of a grand pianoforte, +suddenly broke away from under me; a huge +gap seemed cloven out in the mountain side, and +Maurer, below, had only just time to spring aside, +enveloped in a cloud of dust, and to throw himself flat +against the rock, while the rope was strained to the +utmost. Fortunately the handhold above was sound +and I was able to hold on with feet dangling in the +air, searching in vain for some projection on which +to rest. Those above were too insecure to give any +efficient help, and in fact possibly viewed my struggles, +inasmuch as they were not fully aware at first of what +had happened, with as much equanimity as a person +inside a boat contemplates the gymnastic performances +of a bather trying to climb over the edge. As +the cloud of dust cleared off, however, and Maurer’s +face gradually beamed through it like the sun in a +fog, for the excitement had made him the colour of +a cornet player giving vent to a high note, they +<pb n='116'/><anchor id='Pg116'/>began to realise that something abnormal had happened, +while the distant thundering reverberations of +the falling mass assured them that it was no ordinary +slip. Meanwhile Maurer planted his axe so as to give +me some foothold, and with a push from below and +a pull from above, fortunately simultaneous, I succeeded +in planting my feet where my hands were, and +subsequently undoubling found that we were within a +few feet of the ridge, that the panorama beyond was +undoubtedly magnificent, but was thrown out in strong +relief by deep blue-black thunder-clouds advancing +towards us. +</p> + +<p> +Jaun now removed his empty pipe from his mouth +and replaced it by a lucifer match, which, either as an +aid to reflection or possibly for medicinal purposes, he +chewed as he contemplated the ridge. A miserably +cold wind with a remarkable knack of detecting all +the rents in our raiment whistled around; above, the +summit of the mountain was enveloped in driving +thick mist and cloud. Still the final ridge looked +fairly easy, and indeed proved to be so. The snow +was deep and soft, and the stones below were so +arranged as to remind us forcibly of a newly mended +road in our native country; big and little, all seemed +loose, and all arranged with their sharpest points and +edges uppermost. The ridge is moderately broad, +and we were able to flounder along with fair rapidity. +Spurred on by the unpromising look of the weather +<pb n='117'/><anchor id='Pg117'/>and stimulated by the cold wind, which rendered any +halts so unpleasant as to be out of the question, we +set to work in earnest and found ourselves at the base +of the final little snow and rock cone earlier than the +length of the ridge had led us to expect. As we +stepped on to the summit we experienced the curious +sensation usually arising when climbing through +clouds, that the mountain itself was sinking away +rapidly from under our feet. The panorama was +wholly composed of a foreground consisting of mist, +and presented therefore comparatively few attractions. +</p> + +<note place="margin">A limited panorama</note> + +<p> +It was already so late in the afternoon that we +could not have afforded to stay in any case, and, as +we felt that serious difficulties might possibly be encountered +in descending, we set off at once, visions of +a warm welcome and a hot bath at Ried rising before +our minds. The idea of descending by way of the +Baltschieder Joch was negatived without a division. +The northern ridge of the Bietschhorn is a counterpart +of the one by which we had ascended, with the solitary +advantage in our case that we had to go down it and +not up. The snow slopes leading down to the Nest +Glacier were much broader, and we were strongly +tempted more than once to quit the ridge for this +western face of the mountain. Ultimately, persuaded +that the condition of the snow justified us in so doing, +we struck straight down on to the Nest Glacier, skirted +round the ridge of rocks dividing the Nest Glacier +<pb n='118'/><anchor id='Pg118'/>from the Birch Glacier, and catching sight of a little +green patch some way below, threw off the rope and +rushed precipitately down to it. Misguided by a few +gleams of sunshine breaking out between the driving +clouds, we conceived the idea of repose and thought +that we might as well be aired and dried. Below, +the hotel at Ried was in full view, and it seemed +but an hour or two from us: but our troubles were +not yet over. The five minutes’ halt on such occasions +not uncommonly expand into five-and-fifty, and +we rather deliberately averted our gaze from the +western view of the valley, up which the thunder-clouds +were advancing steadily in close formation. +Eventually we decided to move on, in order to avoid +getting once more wet through. Vain hope: rapid +though our descent was to the level of the forest it +was not rapid enough. We ran furiously down the +rough slopes, but, as the storm advanced and we +perceived that we should be caught, the agitation of +our minds gradually equalled the agitation of our +bodies. We seemed to get no nearer Ried, while the +darkness increased rapidly around us. Knowing the +proclivities of guides on such occasions, my companion +and I agreed that nothing should induce us +to leave a path, should we perchance find one. Now, +in a dim light it is exceedingly easy to discover paths, +but extremely difficult to discover that variety of track +that leads anywhere. Determined, however, to stick +<pb n='119'/><anchor id='Pg119'/>to our resolution, we found ourselves continually +pursuing level stretches right and left, only to find +that, as routes to any particular place, they were +snares and delusions; that there was a path with +long zigzags we knew, and indeed, finally, a shout +from the guides, who skipped about downhill with an +utter disregard for the integrity of their joints, and +adopted that curious cantering gait considered on +the stage to express light-hearted joy, announced +that they had discovered the way. With characteristic +inconsistency, they had no sooner found what we +had been so long searching for than they proposed +to leave it and make short cuts, so called; but we +were inflexible, and determined not to leave our path +or be seduced by the attractions of a perpendicular +descent through an unknown territory. The hotel +lights were no longer visible, but we knew that they +lay straight below us. The question was whether we +should turn right or left. The guides settled the +matter by darting off ahead, ostensibly from a perfect +acquaintance with their situation, but actually as we +suspected to avoid being worried with unpleasant +topographical questions. Gradually as we followed +the track our stern purpose began to waver, for it +was pointed out by some one that the path, though +undoubtedly a good one in point of construction and +general purpose, had two distinct disadvantages from +our present point of view; one being that it led uphill, +<pb n='120'/><anchor id='Pg120'/>and the other that it ran in the wrong direction. +There are certain contingencies in life in which the +Briton finds but one adequate method of relieving +and expressing his feelings, such, for instance, as +when he finds himself bespattered with mud from +the passing hansom on a carefully selected shirt-front +and a white tie that would have moved to envy; or +when, again, as the last to leave his club at night +he finds the only remaining head-gear to consist of +a well-worn beaver many sizes too large, with fur +under the brim and a decoration of little rosettes and +bobstays. It is hard to see why the ejaculation of +any particular monosyllable should do him good at +such a juncture. Hard words unquestionably break +no bones, but neither do they mend the broken collar-stud +or the ruptured bootlace; and yet if he swallows +the expression down it will certainly ferment within +him, and fermentation is characterised by multiplication. +If, on the contrary, he articulates his feelings, +the whole situation suddenly appears changed, and he +can view the most untoward circumstances once more +with a calm serenity of temper. But the remedy, +though potent, specific almost, is too valuable to be +resorted to constantly, and should be reserved, like +Thursday’s razor, for the most special occasions. +</p> + +<note place="margin">A race for home</note> + +<p> +Our situation on the present occasion fully justified +us in resorting to the source of relief vaguely alluded +to, and we employed it simultaneously with the +<pb n='121'/><anchor id='Pg121'/>happiest results. Now the guides triumphed, and +such was our accommodating mood that we actually +acceded to their counsel and embarked on a perilous +descent down a vertical gully. Scarcely had we turned +into it when the storm broke and the rain came down +in sheets, and very damp sheets too. Some one now +suggested that the wisest plan would be to remain under +shelter till the rain had passed off. It was argued +against this amendment, and with a certain amount of +force, first that there was no probability of the rain +stopping, and secondly that there was no shelter: so +we went on. Gradually, as we became more wet, we +grew more desperate, and before long floundered down +as regardless of bumps as a bluebottle in a conservatory: +at one moment slithering over wet slabs of +rock to which damp tufts of moss were loosely adherent, +at another climbing carefully over gigantic toothcombs +of fallen trees, then plunging head foremost—sometimes +not exactly head foremost—through jungle-like +masses of long grass and dwarf brushwood. Soaked +to the skin, steamy, damp, and perspiring like bridegrooms, +we went on, utterly reckless as to our apparel, +and haunted by a perpetual idea that we should find +ourselves ultimately at some place whence further +descent would be impossible. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Caught out</note> + +<p> +Within a few minutes the party divided and Jaun +and I found ourselves together. By the lightning +flashes I saw him from time to time; on one occasion +<pb n='122'/><anchor id='Pg122'/>he suddenly disappeared from view, and on joining him +cautiously a little while after I found that he had +just previously seated himself abruptly on a flat rock, +immediately underneath a miniature torrent. The +fact that we did not at every ten seconds run against +large trees confirmed the idea that we were now +almost out of the wood; accordingly we halloaed, as +the occasion seemed suitable, but no answer was returned +from our companions. Now came the question +of how we were to cross the torrent which we knew +lay between us and the hotel. Jaun cheerfully remarked +that the best plan would be to find the bridge. +This was obvious enough, but he confessed that he +had forgotten at what part of the river’s course the +bridge lay. However, keeping close together, we +made towards the right, on which side the stream lay. +The slopes were here more level and less carelessly +laid out. Our hopes revived, for the hotel could +only be a few minutes off, and between the peals +of thunder we could hear the roar of the torrent and +could hear also the hollow sound due to the boulders +rolling over its stony bed. Of a sudden we came on +to its banks, and formidable enough the stream looked. +The idea of searching for the bridge seemed childish, +for the whole of the frail wooden structure had +probably been carried away long before down to the +Rhone valley. The hotel was only a few yards off, +and again the situation was exasperating enough to +<pb n='123'/><anchor id='Pg123'/>justify a resort to extreme measures, if it were an +extreme measure to express forcibly a wish that the +torrent might be—well, temporarily stopped up at +some higher point. Jaun now volunteered to wade +across. It was quite unnecessary for him to divest +himself of any clothing for the purpose, and in fact +when he had succeeded very pluckily in reaching the +other side he was not in the least degree wetter than +when he started. He shouted some observations +from the other side, which I took to mean that he +would go on to the hotel and procure a lantern. +Accordingly I seated myself to await his return, +selecting unintentionally a little pool of water, which +however did just as well as anything else. +</p> + +<note place="margin">The water jump</note> + +<p> +Before long a flashing light advancing indicated +that Jaun had been successful, and two forms were +seen dimly on the opposite side, one with a light. +The bearer of the lantern was an aged person in shirt +sleeves and a highly excited frame of mind. The +aged person, on the distant shore, gesticulated as +violently as a marionette doll when its wires have got +hitched up wrong, and then, seemingly possessed of a +sudden fury, rushed violently down a steep place and +beckoned frantically with his lantern. This seemed +to mean that I was to descend to a point on the bank +opposite to where he stood. It now appeared that +there was a bridge within a few yards of us, if a +single spiky, submerged, and insecure trunk could be +<pb n='124'/><anchor id='Pg124'/>considered such. The old man embraced me warmly +when I had made my way across, slapped me hard on +the back, and then laughed very loud and suddenly. +Then he darted off with the agility and abruptness of +movement of an elderly lady from the country crossing +in front of an omnibus, or a hen, a foolish animal +that always waits to the last moment before running +needlessly to the wrong side of the road. Guided by +the lantern which the impulsive veteran flourished +wildly in every direction, so that no one dared +approach him, in another ten minutes we reached the +hotel and found ourselves, with the exception of our +companions, who had arrived a few minutes before—Heaven +only knows how, for they did not—fortunately +the only occupants of the hotel. The volatile sexagenarian +calmed down, put on his coat, put out his +lantern, and retired to repose in an outhouse, a +shelter to which I fancy he was relegated owing to +certain physical infirmities. +</p> + +<note place="margin">A classical banquet</note> + +<p> +It was eleven o’clock, and we had been pretty +actively employed for twenty-one hours. The idea of +food and a change of raiment was not, therefore, distasteful. +A middle-aged female with an excessively +<q>rational</q> and hygienic waist, who said she was the +waitress, volunteered to serve the banquet, but the +change of raiment necessary was naturally beyond her +means, while the idea of borrowing from the aged +person’s wardrobe did not commend itself to us, so we +<pb n='125'/><anchor id='Pg125'/>ordered in a large stock of towels. <q>But,</q> I remarked, +<q>you can’t go about in a bath towel</q>—the truth of +which assertion was immediately evident, for they were +so small that it was difficult to fasten them with any +degree of security; accordingly blankets were requisitioned, +and a very classical effect in costume was thus +produced, though what the Romans did when there +was a gale of wind I do not know. To keep up the +delusion we arranged the chairs after the fashion of +couches, and appeased our hunger with a curious repast +of stewed apples and mixed biscuits, the sole articles +of food that could be discovered. However, to anticipate, +we fared better the next day at breakfast; for +though Bright Chanticleer proclaimed the morn at +3 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> he did not proclaim any subsequent period of +time, as he was captured and cooked for our repast. +The waitress while we supped was busily engaged in +stoking up the stove, and seized upon our damp +raiment with avidity to have it ready for the next +morning; so energetic was she in fact that we felt it +necessary to remonstrate, foreseeing the probability +that our clothes might have to be brought back to us +in a dust shovel: we remarked that, though sorry for +our misdeeds, we would limit for choice the repentant +nature of our apparel to the sackcloth we were then +wearing and would dispense with the adjunct of ashes. +The unreliable nature of the fastenings of our costume +prevented us from accompanying our forcible remarks +<pb n='126'/><anchor id='Pg126'/>with properly impressive gestures. The remonstrance, +however, had the desired effect, and our garments the +next day, though somewhat shrivelled and inconveniently +tight here and there, still proved that they +had resisted effectively the fire as well as the water. +</p> +<note place="margin">The old cure</note> +<p> +The amount of luxury found in the Lötschthal since +those days has materially improved. Time was when +the only accommodation for the traveller was to be +found at the humble tenement of Mons. le Curé, a +worthy old creature as I remember him, who appeared +to keep an apiary in his back drawing-room and was +wont to produce the most excellent honey and the +most uncompromising bread; the latter article, as +one might judge, was baked about as often as the old +gentleman washed himself. But the milk of human +kindness flowed strongly in him (as it may be said to +do in those who have been made the subjects of +transfusion), though, to tell the truth, it was somewhat +decidedly flavoured with garlic, and it needed +much resolution to attentively listen to the confidential +communications he was in the habit of whispering. +A man of education and gentle refinement—at any +rate of mind—his was a hard lot, buried away in a +squalid little parish, with no earthly being to talk to +possessed of more than one idea; yet he slaved on +contentedly enough with no thought beyond the +peasants in his own district and of how he might +relieve their condition, too often at the expense of his +<pb n='127'/><anchor id='Pg127'/>own welfare; isolated more than any ascetic, for his +mental existence was that of a hermit, from circumstances +and not from will. The thought of solitary +confinement is terrible, but utter mental isolation is +hideous. Yet, while he entertained us hospitably with +fare which, though rough, was the very best he could +offer, he would not join in the repast: not, probably, +from lack of appetite, but from a feeling that, owing +to prolonged seclusion and association with the +peasants, the more fashionable and accepted methods +of preparing food for consumption and conveying it +to the mouth, with subsequent details, were somewhat +dim to his recollection. Yet his conversation flowed +fast and he talked well: the while any reference to +friends and fellow-travellers would cause him to pause +for a moment or two, look upwards around the room, +and fetch a rather long breath before he recommenced. +A curiously gaunt old creature he seemed at first +sight: with wonderful, bony, plastic hands capable of +expressing anything; grotesque almost in his unkempt +rustiness; provoking a smile at first, but sadness as +one learnt more of him. And how closely are the two +emotions associated. In truth Humour was born a +twin, and her sister was christened Pathos. +</p> + +<p> +I can recall that he accepted a sum of ten francs +when we parted in the morning. His eyes glistened +with pleasure as he took the coin and straightway +made for a ramshackle hovel on the hill-side, where +<pb n='128'/><anchor id='Pg128'/>lay an aged person <q>très-malade.</q> Possibly after his +visit there was left a happy peasant in that tumble-down +cabin—an emotional object more often described +than witnessed. But all this took place years ago, +and as we passed the collection of dilapidated tenements +in one of which our old friend once lived, I +failed to recognise his former dwelling-place. The +timbers grew old and worn, the bands rusty, and one +day the wheel which had worked steadily for so long +stopped. Yet the stream which had moved it ran on +as if nothing had happened. Was it a wasted life? +Who can say if there be such a thing? +</p> + <lg> +<l>A few can touch the magic string,</l> +<l rend='margin-left: 2'>And noisy Fame is proud to win them:</l> +<l>Alas! for those that never sing,</l> +<l rend='margin-left: 2'>But die with all their music in them.</l> +</lg> + <p>We passed on: in a few minutes the houses were lost +to view and there was left but the reflection of how +much more, worthy of study, there was in this old +curé’s nature than in the majority of Swiss with +whom mountaineering brings us in close contact. +</p> + +<note place="margin">A <q>pension</q> in a train</note> + +<p> +As we descended the Lötschthal to Gampel the +air seemed to thicken. The excessive warmth allowed +our garments to stretch once again to their wonted +girth, and we became less thoughtful. The vignette +of the ancient curé dissolved away and was replaced +by a view (mental only, unhappily) of our aiguille at +Chamouni, black and bare of snow, inviting another +<pb n='129'/><anchor id='Pg129'/>attack. Gampel does not tempt the traveller much +to seek repose, and we therefore caught the first train +that came crawling along the valley and shaped +our course for Chamouni in a second-class carriage +tenanted by a <hi rend='italic'>pension</hi> of young ladies out for a holiday +apparently, who all chirped and twittered and wrangled +for the best places till the going down of the sun, +like the Temple sparrows. +</p> + +</div><div type="chapter" n="5" rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb n='130'/><anchor id='Pg130'/> +<index index="toc" level1="V. An old friend with a new face"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="V. An old friend with a new face"/> +<head>CHAPTER V.</head> + +<head type="sub">AN OLD FRIEND WITH A NEW FACE</head> + +<argument><p> +Chamouni again—The hotel <hi rend='italic'>clientèle</hi>—A youthful hero—The inevitable +English family—A scientific gentleman—A dream of the +future—The hereafter of the Alps and of Alpine literature—A +condensed mountain ascent—Wanted, a programme—A double +<q>Brocken</q>—A hill-side phenomenon and a familiar character—A +strong argument—Halting doubts and fears—A digression on +mountaineering accidents—<q>From gay to grave, from lively to +severe</q>—The storm breaks—A battle with the elements—Beating +the air—The ridge carried by assault—What next, and next?—A +topographical problem and a cool proposal—The descent down +the Vallée Blanche—The old Montanvert hotel—The Montanvert +path and its frequenters. +</p></argument> + +<p> +It was the summer of 18— and our old quarters at +Couttet’s hotel knew us once more. As we drove into +the village of Chamouni we turned our heads carelessly +around to note the various new hotels that might have +arisen since our last visit. Observing that they were +four or five in number, we rightly conjectured that +we should find all the hotel keepers complaining +bitterly of the hard times and the want of custom. +Also we wondered in how many ways it was possible +to build a house without any particular system of +drainage, a deficiency which was at that time +becom<pb n='131'/><anchor id='Pg131'/>ing very marked in Chamouni, but has since, I believe, +been improved. Yet the place itself had not altered +essentially. New buildings of imposing exterior and +little else do not materially alter a place that leads a +life like that of modern Chamouni. The population, +which throughout the summer appears to pass its +time in the streets with its hands in its pockets, was +still amusing itself in the same way. The tone of the +village was just the same as we had always known it, +and even M. Couttet himself had not succeeded in +imparting any marine flavour by building an odd little +lighthouse with an iron flag on the top which the +architect had ingeniously represented as streaming +permanently in a direction indicating a wind favourable +for fine weather. We knew that we should find +the same denizens in the hotel; and they were there. +</p> + +<note place="margin">A youthful +hero</note> + +<p> +There was a very young man with a very parti-coloured +face from exposure on the glaciers, who had +recently completed the thousand-and-first ascent of +Mont Blanc and was perpetually posing gracefully +against the door-post or in a lattice-work summer-house +a few steps from the hotel, gazing towards the +mountain and rather eagerly joining in any conversation +relating to the perils of the ascent. There were +three or four young ladies of various periods of life +who gazed at him with admiration and enquired at intervals +if he wasn’t very tired; to which the young man +replied carelessly that he was not, and inwardly thought +<pb n='132'/><anchor id='Pg132'/>that the discomfort of sunburn and the consequent +desquamation was on the whole cheaply bought, the +while he wished the expedition had not cost so much +and that so many others had not thought of making +the same ascent. And then there came a lithe, active +lady walker who had been up Mont Blanc and a great +many other mountains too, and paid no more attention +to the guides’ stereotyped compliments than a +suspicious dog does to those of a nervous visitor: so +the young man’s nose was put out of joint and he would +have laughed scornfully at the fickleness of hero worship +had not the skin of his face been in danger of +cracking, and he wished his shirt collar had not been +starched and thumped by the village washerwoman into +the form of a circular linen saw. +</p> + +<note place="margin">A scientific gentleman</note> + +<p> +Then there was an excitable Englishman of impulsive +habits, with a large family who were perpetually +playing a game of follow-my-leader with their parent, +and who were under orders to weigh anchor on the +following morning at five o’clock for the Montanvert +and the Mauvais Pas. The boys were stoking up for +the occasion with raw apples, and the girls were occupied, +when not pursuing their restless father, in preparing +a puggaree for his hat. There was a gentleman +who affected the curious untidiness of raiment not +unfrequently noticed among Sunday frequenters of +the Thames, and who sought to establish a mountaineering +reputation by constantly gazing at the peaks +<pb n='133'/><anchor id='Pg133'/>around in a knowing manner and wearing a flannel +shirt of an obtrusive pattern destitute of any collar. +There were guides about, who were on the point of +being paid for their services and who were exceedingly +polite and obsequious; others whose <q>tour</q> had just +passed, were, proportionately, less deferential. There +was an elderly lady whose whole soul appeared bent +on a little stocking from which she never parted, +and who turned the knitting needles to more account +for toilet and other small purposes than I could have +conceived to be possible. There were two or three +mountaineers who appeared anxious only to avoid +everyone’s gaze and who might be seen in byways and +odd corners talking to bronzed guides who looked like +business. Finally, there was a gentleman of statistical +and scientific tendencies, much given to making quietly +astonishing statements of astronomical facts and +gently smiling as he rolled over his tongue and enjoyed +the flavour of the vast numbers with which it +was his pleasure to deal. He absolutely revelled and +wallowed in figures. Buttonholed in a corner and +compelled to listen with deferential attention, I secretly +writhed as he crushed me slowly with the mere weight +of his numerals. He shared with others of his frame +of mind the peculiarity of always keeping something +in hand and skilfully working up to a climax. Such +and such a star was so many millions of miles off. +We opened our eyes to the proper degree of width and +<pb n='134'/><anchor id='Pg134'/>observed, <q>Bless me!</q> or, <q>You don’t say so?</q> Instantly +he would rejoin, <q>Ah, but that’s nothing to +so and so,</q> and then favoured us with a still more +immeasurable distance. We expressed a slightly +greater degree of intelligent amazement. Thereupon +he nodded his head, gently inclined it a little to one +side, and smiled softly. It gave him such evident +pleasure to have a listener that I attended with due +reverence to his enthusiastic computations; knowing +my man, I felt sure that he was keeping back a real +staggerer to finish up with, and was prepared to +assume varying degrees of surprise up to the moment +when it should come. Unfortunately I misjudged its +advent, and feeling that I had somewhat lost in his +estimation by evincing undue astonishment at a comparatively +small array of figures, I sought to turn the +conversation by requesting to know how long he +thought it might be before the great rock peaks around +us would have crumbled away to their bases. The +calculation was too trivial and the number of millions +of generations too small to interest him much, but he +vouchsafed an approximate estimate. +</p> + +<note place="margin">A dream of the future</note> + +<p> +I let him babble on and fell a-thinking. The peaks +were crumbling away bit by bit no doubt, the glaciers +shrinking. At a bound the mind leapt into a future +which, after all, might be not so very unlike a past. +The Alps things of the past! What, I wondered, +when the mountains were all levelled down and +<pb n='135'/><anchor id='Pg135'/>smiling valleys occupied the troughs of the glaciers +of to-day, would some future commentators make of +the literature so industriously piled up by the members +and followers of the Alpine Club? Imagination ran +riot as in a dream, and I fancied some enthusiast +exploring the buried city of the second Babylon and +excavating the ruins of the <q>finest site in Europe.</q> +I pictured to myself the surprise in store for him on +digging out the effigies of some of our naval and +military heroes, and the mingled feelings with which he +would contemplate the unearthed statue of George IV. +It seemed possible that in that far-off epoch to which +my friend’s calculations had borne me, the Alpine Club +itself might have ceased to exist. Pursuing his explorations +in an easterly direction, the excavator +might perchance have lighted on a strange tunnel, +almost Arcadian in its simplicity of design, and +marvelled at the curious and cheap idols of wax and +wood which the people of that ancient day had evidently +worshipped. Turning north again, this Schliemann +of the future would pass by the ruins of +S. Martin’s Church, eager to light upon the precious +archives of the historic Alpine Club itself. How +eagerly he would peruse the lore contained in the +Club library, anxious to decipher the inscriptions +and discover what manner of men they were who +lived and climbed when mountains and glaciers were +still to be found on this planet. Human nature would +<pb n='136'/><anchor id='Pg136'/>probably not have changed much, and the successful +explorer might even have been asked to favour a +scientific society of the future with the result of his +discoveries, to which in all probability he would have +acceded, with a degree of reluctance not quite sufficient +to deter the secretary of the society from pressing +him. +</p> + +<note place="margin">A condensed mountain ascent</note> + +<p> +An abstract of his description of our sibylline +leaves I fancied might run somewhat in this style:—After +commenting on the fact that the maps and +illustrations did not usually correspond in number +with the list set forth in the index of the volumes +unearthed, he might proceed thus:—<q>In pursuit of +their great and glorious object these ancient heroes +appear to have undergone vast personal discomfort. +It is difficult therefore to realise fully why so many +engaged in this form of exploration. Instances +have been given by other learned antiquarians who +have studied the habits of this people, of a similar +purposeless disregard of comfort, such as the four-wheeled +wooden boxes in which they travelled about, +the seats in their churches, &c. The outset of their +expedition was almost invariably characterised by a +display of bad temper, attributed to early rising. +After a varying number of hours of excessive toil +the travellers were wont to arrive at some fearsome +chasm spoken of as a <q>bergschrund.</q> On this, if the +subject-matter of their narrative was insufficient in +<pb n='137'/><anchor id='Pg137'/>quantity, they were wont to descant and enlarge at +length; sometimes, as we judge, in their descriptions +they enlarged the bergschrund itself. They then +crossed it. Immediately after this incident they were +in the habit of eating, and the minute and instructive +details commonly given enable us to form +a tolerably accurate opinion as to the nature of the +diet with which they supported their exhausted +frames. Next they traversed strange localities for +which there appear to have been no adequately descriptive +expressions in their own language. In fact the +difficulty of deciphering these records is greatly increased +by the fact that the writers were versatile +linguists, for they constantly make use of words of +a hybrid character. They were evidently practised +meteorologists and took much interest in this subject, +as may be gathered throughout from their writings. At +length they reached summits, of the nature of which we +in our time can have but a feeble conception. So great +was their relief at the termination of their self-imposed +but toilsome task, that they habitually burst +forth into language characterised by a wealth of +imagery and a fervour of poetic description which +unfortunately conveys but little idea to us in our day +of what they actually saw. In descending they were +all commonly within an ace of meeting with a violent +death. The mode in which the danger attacked them +varied within certain restricted limits, but it always +<pb n='138'/><anchor id='Pg138'/>occurred and the escape was always narrow. The +peril over, they remarked that they breathed freely +again, and then at once fell to eating. Arrived at a +successful termination of their wearisome labour, they +advised others to do the same. They dealt out unsparing +satire to their companions, unlimited praise +to their guides, and unmeasured ridicule to their +porter. They commonly expressed throughout their +descriptions grave doubts and uncertainty as to the +issue of the expedition: a curious and noteworthy +fact, for the heading of the accounts always divulged +at the outset their ultimate success. The construction, +therefore, of their narratives was in accordance with a +well-recognised model and appeared capable of little +variation. The only other facts that we can glean +are that they were prodigious eaters, were much +pestered by some extinct species of insects, and that +they make frequent allusions to a substance termed +tobacco. The constant repetition of these incidents +stamps upon their writings the impress of unexaggerated +veracity. Still they were not universally +held in favour, indeed were regarded with disapprobation +by some individuals of their own race. It would +seem indeed from internal evidence that, had it not +been for frequent and sharp criticism of their proceedings, +their pastime might never have inveigled so +many persons with its seductive fascination.</q> +</p> + +<p> +Now at the time at which these prophetic fancies +<pb n='139'/><anchor id='Pg139'/>were conjured up we had just completed an expedition +which it seemed might be worthy of attention, solely +on the ground of its very contradictoriness. For the +features of this climb were most opposed to those +already mentioned, and in fact mention of it scarcely +seemed admissible in an Alpine narrative. We took +no porter with us to fill the rôle of first low comedy +man. We had very little to eat; our stock of wine +ran out through a leaky gourd; our tobacco was wet +and there was no bergschrund, and yet all this +happened on a mountain close to Chamouni. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Wanted, a programme</note> + +<p> +<q>Some vast amount of years ago, ere all my youth +had vanished from me,</q> as the poet says, at a date +therefore which for obvious reasons it is inexpedient +here to mention, I found myself, as already mentioned, +at Chamouni. With me was an old mountain friend +and fellow climber, J. Oakley Maund. We were both +burning with desire to add to the list of the many +successful expeditions we had made together, but, as +a matter of fact, were somewhat gravelled for lack of +suitable matter. Like a ministry on the eve of a +general election or a gentleman without a sixpenny-piece +at a theatre, we were sorely in need of a programme. +The locality was somewhat unfortunately +chosen for those in whom the ancient spirit was not +yet quite extinct and who wanted to do something new. +Ever since the days when Jacques Balmat, Dr. Paccard, +and the great De Saussure had donned strange apparel +<pb n='140'/><anchor id='Pg140'/>and shown the way—that is to say, for nearly a hundred +years—people had been climbing mountains in the +district, and it was not to be wondered at if it were +hard to find some expedition which nobody else had +thought of, or, worse still, had achieved. We gazed +at the map and made thumb marks all over it. In +every conceivable direction ran little lines indicative +of previous explorations. We studied the <hi rend='italic'>carte en +relief</hi>, but without much hope of getting any information +of value from this inaccurate and lumpy +absurdity. Mont Blanc, which, according to this work +of plastic art, was modelled out as some eight or ten +thousand feet higher than any other point of the chain, +had had all the snow worn off its summit by much +fingering, so that the component pasteboard showed +through. Rivers ran uphill in this map, and lakes +were inclined at an angle; bits of sticking plaister represented +towns and villages, and the whole article was +absolutely bristling with little spikes and points like +the old panoramas of London or the docks at Liverpool. +Still a considerable number of people seemed +willing enough to pay fifty centimes for the pleasure +of indicating elaborate expeditions on it with their +fore-fingers, and appeared to derive pleasure from +gazing on a pasteboard misrepresentation when they +could by looking out of window see the real thing for +nothing. We abandoned the <hi rend='italic'>carte en relief</hi> and took +Jaun and Kaspar Maurer into our confidence. The +<pb n='141'/><anchor id='Pg141'/>only suggestions that they could make were the +Aiguille des Charmoz and the Dent du Géant. The +former of these two peaks we had both tried to +ascend in former seasons, without success. Jaun did +not think then that it was possible, and without +sharing his opinion we gave way to it. With regard to +the latter mountain we all thought at the time that an +undue amount of what is vaguely termed <q>artificial +aid</q> would be necessary to ensure success, an opinion +confirmed by subsequent events, for when Signor +Sella achieved the honour of the first ascent he was +only able to accomplish it by somewhat elaborate +engineering appliances. Some bold person of an +original turn of thought suggested of course a variation +of some way up Mont Blanc, but the utter impossibility +of discovering the slightest deviation from +any previously ascended route and the utter uselessness +of trying to find one caused a general shout of +derision, and the bold person thereupon withdrew his +suggestion and ordered some coffee. Besides, the +weather was fine; every day swarms of tourists +could be seen, crawling up the sides of the monarch +of mountains, in numbers as many as the flies on a +sugar loaf in a grocer’s window on a hot day. +</p> + +<p> +One evening we sat in front of Couttet’s hotel +staring pensively at the familiar outline of the row +of aiguilles, and wishing we had lived in the days of +Albert Smith, the best friend Chamouni ever had. +<pb n='142'/><anchor id='Pg142'/>At any rate, at that time the natives were unsophisticated +and the mountains about were not all done to +death. The valley between us and the chain was +filled with a light haze, not sufficient to conceal the +outline of the mountains but yet enough to blot out +their detail and solidity. As the moon rose behind +the chain we saw a strange phenomenon. A silhouette +was thrown forwards on to the curtain of haze +and photographed on it with sharp and clear definition, +so that we could recognise, at an immense +height, the shadowed peaks looking almost as massive +as the actual mountains. Nor was this all; a second +curtain of mist seemed to be suspended, in a vertical +stratum, in front of the former one, and the shadows +were again marked out on this, infinitely more magnified +and less distinct, but still perfectly recognisable. +As a result we were able to see the semblance of three +distinct tiers of mountains one above the other, looking +so massive that we could scarcely realise that they +were but transparent ghosts of the peaks; and the +phenomenon, a double <q>Brocken,</q> must have lasted +for more than half an hour. However, we desired +something more of the nature of the substance than +the shadow, and ultimately came to the conclusion +that it was absolutely necessary for our peace of mind +to accomplish something on the morrow, and as it +really mattered but little what that something might +be, provided a good climb was afforded, we must yield +<pb n='143'/><anchor id='Pg143'/>to circumstances and perforce adopt the latter-day +necessity of all mountaineers. If we could not find the +right way up some new mountain we could at least +take the wrong way up an old one. +</p> + +<note place="margin">The Aiguille du Midi</note> + +<p> +So the next morning we walked up to the Pierre +Pointue as a preliminary step—a good many and +rather arduous steps—towards the object in view. +The exertion of toiling up the zigzags or the more +rarefied atmosphere had a remarkable effect on one of +the party, whose face when we reached the chalet was +found to be wreathed in smiles and wearing an expression +of great intelligence. He had in fact become +possessed of an idea. Bubbling over with self-satisfied +chuckles, he suggested that we should ascend the +Aiguille du Midi by the face directly in front of us +and then descend on the other side, thus making a +col of the mountain. The idea found favour instantly, +and the intelligent person was so much pleased that +he ordered a bottle of wine, plastered over with a very +costly variety of label, and regretted it. Investigation +of the cellar revealed only two casks of wine, but the +<q>carte</q> comprised a long list of various vintages. +Fired with enthusiasm and inflated with <hi rend='italic'>limonade +gazeuse</hi>, we left the chalet and strode vigorously up +the hill in order to prospect the route and reconnoitre +the rocks. The exertion and the pace soon told upon +us, the sooner that it was a hot, enervating day; +the kind of day that makes one perforce admire the +<pb n='144'/><anchor id='Pg144'/>ingenious benevolence of nature in fashioning out on +the grassy slopes rounded inequalities, exactly adapted +to those of the human figure in a seated or recumbent +position. The heated air rising from the ground gave +flickering and distorted views of distant objects, like +unto marine phenomena viewed through the cheap +panes of a seaside lodging-house window. The grasshoppers +were extraordinarily busy; the bees droned +through the heavy air; the ants, overcome apparently +by the temperature, had given up for the time straining +their jaws by their foolish practice of carrying +large parcels about without any definite object, and +had retired to the shady seclusion of their own +heaped-up residences; the turf was most inviting. +It now occurred to us that there was no absolute +necessity for the whole party to ascend on the present +occasion, and that perhaps the guides might go up +quicker alone. The details of this suggestion were +acceded to on the part of the amateurs of the party +with astonishing alacrity and unanimity. We laid +the scheme before the guides, and they also thought +it a very fine one. Thereupon, with much parade +and ceremony, they braced themselves up for great +exertion, borrowed the telescope, remarked that they +expected to be back some time during the night, and +started upwards with somewhat over-acted eagerness. +My companion and I disposed ourselves comfortably +in the shade, and resumed an argument which had +<pb n='145'/><anchor id='Pg145'/>originally commenced some days previously. I waxed +eloquent on the subject under discussion and with +much success, for such was the force of my logic and +the cogency of my reasoning that I bore down on +my opponent, and reduced him in a short time to absolute +silence, from which he did not awake for nearly +two hours. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Ephemeral acquaintances</note> + +<p> +About this time the guides, who in all probability +had also been comfortably asleep within a +short distance of us, returned and gave a favourable +report concerning the mountain. Elated by this news, +we climbed a short distance further up, and met there +a large party of ephemeral acquaintances who were +taking an afternoon’s pleasure on the hills. After the +manner of people when so engaged, they set forth +with great energy and climbed up a steep little rock +tump a few hundred yards distant. Arrived at the +summit, they roared out unintelligible remarks to us, +and we did the same to them till we were hoarse; we +waved our hands and hats and they flourished their +handkerchiefs as if they were our dearest friends on +earth, just setting out on an emigrant ship for the +Antipodes. The party then descended; the nearer +they came the less friendly and demonstrative were +we, and by the time we met the warmth of affection +recently manifested on both sides had wholly evaporated, +and we conversed in ordinary tones on indifferent +topics. Then they set out for another little hill, +<pb n='146'/><anchor id='Pg146'/>and we were moved, apparently by some uncontrollable +impulse, to go through the same idiotic performance. +Emotional behaviour of a similar kind is not infrequently +observed in the mountains. We journeyed +together back to the Pierre Pointue, viewing each +other with distrust and suspicion; and when it was +found that we had bespoken the beds—if the exaggerated +packing-cases lined with straw bags could be +considered such—we parted on terms the reverse +of friendly. So frail are the links that bind human +affections. +</p> + +<note place="margin">A familiar character</note> + +<p> +Standing in front of the hut was a type of +character very familiar in these tourist-frequented +districts. His exterior was unpromising; his beard of +a fortnight’s growth, or thereabouts, somewhat fitful +withal and lacking in uniformity of development. A +hard hat, with a shining green veil folded around its +battered outline, decorated his head; his raiment was +black and rusty, his legs cased in canvas gaiters +fastened with many little girths and buckles, and in +his right hand he grasped a trusty three-franc pole +made of wainy deal, and surmounted at the top by a +brown knob similar to those which come out suddenly +when we try to open a chest of drawers in a cheap +lodging. He fidgeted about for a while, asked questions +in a rather loud tone of voice at us, and we felt +that it was his intention to enter into conversation. +It was even so. After a while he sidled up and +<pb n='147'/><anchor id='Pg147'/>requested with much diffidence to be informed what +we proposed to climb on the morrow. Now the true +mountaineer, however amiable his disposition, always +shrinks up into his shell when such a question is put +to him on the eve of an expedition. My companion +indicated by a sweep of the arm a space of territory +extending about from the Mont Buet on the one side +round to the Aiguille de Gouté on the other. Our +friend surveyed from end to end the extensive +panorama suggested, then looked seriously at us and +observed that we should probably find it a fine walk. +We expressed gravely the opinion that he was quite +right, and then went in to dinner, while our composite +friend expatiated on the project to his companions as +an expedition but little out of the ordinary run, and +one that he was perfectly prepared to undertake himself +if so disposed; then he resumed his contemplation +of a rock some ninety feet or so in height jutting out +through the glacier above, which he was under the +impression was a lady descending from Mont Blanc. +We did not learn his name, but the individual may, +nevertheless, possibly be recognised. Some points of the +argument were still unsettled when we climbed over +the edges of our respective boxes and vanished into +the strawy depths below. The clear moonlight +streamed in through the window and prevented sleep; +so I lay in my wooden box thinking over the recent +discussion, but with such a distinct +intention—<pb n='148'/><anchor id='Pg148'/>like little Paul Dombey with Mrs. Pipchin—of +fixing my companion presently, that even that hardy +old mountaineer deemed it prudent to counterfeit +slumber. +</p> + +<p> +In the small hours of the morning we got under +weigh. For some time we had been leading a life of +sloth in Chamouni, and the delight of finding ourselves +once more on the mountain path, and making +for a rock climb, entirely precluded that fractiousness +which, as all readers of Alpine literature know, ought +properly to be described at this period of an expedition. +The path was irregular and demanded some equanimity, +for the stumbling-blocks were innumerable +and artfully placed to trip up the unwary in an +aggravating manner. Feeling it unfair that all the +work should be thrown on the guides, I had volunteered, +rather magnanimously, to bear part of the +burden, and selected the lantern as my share. By +this means it was not only possible to walk in comfort +over a well-lighted track, but the bearer was enabled also +to regulate the pace to a speed convenient to his own +feelings. Before long, however, we reached the lower +snow patches of the Glacier des Pélèrins, and the +light was no longer necessary. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Halting doubts and fears</note> + +<p> +We made straight across the crisp snow to the base +of a promising-looking rock buttress lying to the right +of the snow gully that runs up the side of the mountain, +feeling sure that either by the rocks or the snow a +<pb n='149'/><anchor id='Pg149'/>way up could be found. And now I am painfully conscious +of a glaring defect in this Alpine narrative. A +mountain ascent without a bergschrund is as tame as a +steeplechase without a water jump, but candour compels +the admission that no bergschrund was visible. +Either we had hit on a spot where the orthodox chasm +was filled up for the time, or else this particular +glacier was an exception to all others previously +treated of in mountain literature. In a few seconds +we found ourselves on the rocks, delighted to exchange +the monotonous mode of progression compulsory on +snow for the varied gymnastic exercises demanded on +rocks. The sun had risen, the axes clanked merrily +against the stones, the snow was in good condition for +walking, everything seemed favourable, and we gazed +down complacently on the distance already traversed. +Above us the mountain was broken up and easy, and +we climbed on rapidly, each in the fashion that seemed +best to him. So good was our progress at first, that +we were already far up the buttress, and could barely +see our morning’s tracks in the snow beneath, when a +halt was called for breakfast, and we had time to look +around. Now, however unconventional this expedition +may have been in many respects, the sagacious +student of Alpine literature will know that it must be +wholly impossible to omit all reference to the weather. +As soon might one expect two prosaic persons of slight +acquaintanceship to abjure the topic at a chance +<pb n='150'/><anchor id='Pg150'/>meeting. The western sky wore a rather ominous +look of half mourning, and heavy grey and black +clouds were whirling about and forming up in close +order in a manner suggestive of rising wind. Even +at this stage of the proceedings the thought crossed +our minds that the storm which was evidently brewing +might possibly overtake us, and that perhaps we ought +at once to turn back. +</p> + +<note place="margin">The storm gathers</note> + +<p> +One thing was evident; that we must decide +quickly, whatever we did. We determined to push +on for a while, and with that intent girded ourselves +with the rope and worked our way on to the +top of the first buttress. At this point, further +progress directly upwards was impossible, and we +were compelled to cross the gully and make for +the rock on the left-hand side. Considerable care +is always necessary in crossing, horizontally, a gully +filled with snow, where the rope is rather a source +of danger than of security. We had to give all +our attention to the passage, and when we reached +the rocks opposite, the climbing, though not formidable, +was still sufficiently difficult to occupy all our +thoughts for the moment, and we had but little leisure, +and perhaps but little inclination, for meteorological +observations. At the top of the rocks a promising +snow slope, stretching upwards with gentle curves and +sweeps, seemed to offer a fair prospect of rapid progress. +Such snow slopes are at all times a little +<pb n='151'/><anchor id='Pg151'/>deceptive. Even when the climber is close to them they +look oftentimes much easier than they immediately +after prove to be. From a distance, say from under +the verandah of a comfortable hotel, when the climber +<hi rend='italic'>in posse</hi> indicates the way he would pursue with the +end of his cigar, they are absurdly easy. So, too, +are obstacles in the hunting-field, such as stiff hedges +and uncompromising gates, easy enough when the +Nimrod studies them as he whirls along in an express +train. Subsequently, when immediately associated +with a horse, these same obstacles assume a different +guise. Then are the sentiments of the hunter prone +to become modified, and compassion for dumb beasts +becomes more prominent in the <anchor id="corr151"/><corr sic="thoughful">thoughtful</corr> votary of +the chase, till finally it may be observed that the +little wits jump sometimes more than the great ones. +Even so does the mountaineer often discover, on a +nearer acquaintance that the snow incline up which he +proposed to stride merrily is inclined at a highly inconvenient +angle. However, at the commencement of +our slope we found the snow in good condition, and +advanced quickly for some little distance, but before +we had got very far it was necessary to resort to the +axe, and we had then ample opportunities of looking +round. The clouds were lowering more and more, +but as they were swept up by a sou’westerly wind, +the intervening mass of the mountain prevented us +from seeing thoroughly what might be in store for us. +<pb n='152'/><anchor id='Pg152'/>The wind, too, was growing stronger every minute, +and my companion, who was still pursuing his argument, +and, as it appeared subsequently, making +some rather good points, had to exert himself considerably +in order to make his voice heard. +</p> + +<p> +Presently we halted for a few minutes on some +spiky little rocks, and again looked about. The +weather prospects were just in that doubtful state that +prompts every member of the party to ask the others +what they think. Maurer looked exceedingly vacant and +made no remark. Jaun put a bit of snow in his mouth, +but declined to give an opinion. We, not to be outdone, +assumed very profound expressions, as if prepared to +find ourselves in the right whatever happened, but, +following the example of Lord Burleigh in the famous +tragedy, we said nothing either. At last, some one +suggested that we might go on for a little, and then +see. Accordingly we went on for a little, but then as +a matter of fact the mists swept up around us and +we did not see anything at all. It was, no doubt, +inconvenient that we were unable to penetrate with +our gaze to the regions above, but still we felt that +there was one slight counterbalancing advantage, for +there was present the haunting consciousness that +the gigantic telescope of Chamouni was pointed in +our direction, and at least the enveloping mist ensured +that privacy which is not always accorded to climbers +pursuing their pastime within range of these instruments +of science. +</p> + +<pb n='153'/><anchor id='Pg153'/> + +<note place="margin"><q>From gay to grave</q></note> + +<p> +In the hope that the condition of the upper +snow might be good, and perhaps rather mistaken +in the height we had already reached, we made up +our minds to push on, with the view of reaching +at any rate the top of the ridge before the storm +broke. Every now and again a rent in the clouds +above, lasting for a few seconds, showed us that +the wind was blowing with great force, as thin clouds +of loose snow were swept up and whirled along the +face in curling wreaths. The spectacle might not, at +first sight, have been thought highly diverting: yet +as we pointed upwards to the ridge and watched the +racing snow-drifts driving over the slopes we were +making for, we all laughed very heartily. So universal +is the tendency to be amused at the sight of discomfort +that it even extends to the contemplation of its +occurring shortly to oneself. In the paulo-post-future +the experience is exhilarating: in the actual present +it is less laughter-moving. Laughter in the presence +of events that are, in the true sense of the word, +sensational, comes almost as a reflex action (to borrow +an expression from the physiologists), and the +sympathetic distress that follows takes an appreciable +time to develop. I can recall once being +a witness with some others of a ghastly accident +by which several people were precipitated, together +with a mass of broken timbers and débris of all sorts, +from a great height. A door was burst open and the +ruin met our eyes suddenly. To this day I can +<pb n='154'/><anchor id='Pg154'/>remember sounds of laughter at the first view—hysterical +if you like to call it so, and not mirthful, but still +laughter. In a few seconds the realisation of what +had happened came, and then came the distress and +with it expressions of horror, as all worked manfully +to help and rescue the sufferers. The sequence of +emotions was perfectly natural, and only they who +have never passed through such an experience would +speak of inhumanity. There is no want of humanity +in the matter. The suddenness of the impression +begets the train of emotions, and the brain grasps the +facts but slowly. To take another instance: I have +been told by a man whose quickness and presence of +mind were remarkable—a man who as a schoolboy +won a Royal Humane Society’s medal—that on one +occasion he witnessed a friend fall over a staircase +from a great height. The accident was in the highest +degree unexpected: and the witness walked leisurely +on as if nothing had happened. But in a few seconds +came like a severe blow the sudden realisation of what +had taken place. Thought is not always quick. We +can no more exert our minds to their fullest capacity +on a sudden than we can put forth our utmost physical +strength on a sudden. Action when almost instantaneous +is independent of the higher mental faculties, +and is but a reflex. The experience of those who +have been in railway accidents will be of the same +nature. In climbing up a very steep or difficult place +<pb n='155'/><anchor id='Pg155'/>if a man falls all are prepared more or less for such +an accident. The whole attention is given to guarding +against a probable contingency, and it follows that the +mind can instantly realise its occurrence. And that +such is the case I have been unlucky enough to +witness, though most fortunately the fall was attended +with no serious consequences. On the same principle, +to take a more trivial example, on difficult rocks +it is the rarest possible accident for a man to sprain +his ankle or knee. The muscles are always prepared +for a possible slip and kept in tension on the alert. On +the loose moraine, when walking leisurely or carelessly, +such an accident is a thousand times more likely to occur. +</p> + +<note place="margin">The storm breaks</note> + +<p> +Our leader worked away with a will, but the snow got +harder at every step. The growing force of the wind, +which in nautical language had increased from that +vague degree known as a capful to the indefinite +force of a stiff breeze, and the increasing steepness of +the slope, compelled Jaun to make the steps larger +and larger as we ascended. It soon became evident +that the storm would overtake us long before we could +hope to get on to the ridge, and that we had deliberately +walked into something of a trap. The +steps had been cut so far apart that to descend by the +same line would have involved the construction of a +fresh staircase, and on actually turning, we found that +what was a stiff breeze behind us was a half gale when +it met our faces. It was certainly easier to go on +<pb n='156'/><anchor id='Pg156'/>than to go back; so we went further and fared much +worse. The slope became steeper, the ice harder, +the half gale became a whole gale, and the delay +between each step seemed interminable. Suddenly, +as we passed from under the lee of a projecting slope +on our right, a tremendous gust of wind, which seemed +to have waited for a few moments in order to collect +its full forces, swept suddenly down and almost tore +us from our foothold. With that a torrent of hail fell, +and for a few moments we had enough to do to hold +on where we stood. Even my companion’s conversation +slackened. He had astutely selected a place in the +caravan immediately behind me, and as the gale was +blowing directly on our backs was enabled to fire off +his remarks and arguments without any possibility of +response. Anything that I said in answer was audible +only to our leader, who took not the smallest +interest in the discussion. Unfortunately, too, it was +difficult to listen with any attention; for as the gusts +came on we were forced to swing all our faces round like +chimney cowls instantly in the same direction. The +squalls became more frequent and more violent, the +thunder and lightning played around merrily, and as +the wind howled by we had to throw ourselves flat +against the slope, adopting the undignified attitudes +of a deer-stalker nearing the brow of a Scotch hill—attitudes +which bring somewhat unduly into prominence +the inadequate nature of the national costume. +<pb n='157'/><anchor id='Pg157'/>Fortunately, as has been said, we were screened from +view; and our poses, though possibly ungraceful, were +at any rate uncriticised. The big hailstones, falling +softly around, filled up the steps as they were made, +and our feet were buried up to the ankles in a +moment. In a minute or two the hurricane +passed for the time; then we arose, shook ourselves, +smiled at nothing in particular, and the leader +would find time during the comparative lull to hack +out three or four fresh steps. Certain sounds, not +accounted for by the elements, coming up from below, +may have been suggestions or may have been arguments, +but they were knocked out of all intelligible +shape before they reached the head of the caravan. Not +even the porter at Lloyd’s or the captain of a merchantman +could have made himself audible in that cyclone. +Upwards we went, fighting for each step and for each +yard gained as hard as if we were storming a fortress. +Even while the leader had his axe in the air ready to +deliver a fresh blow a distant roar would betoken +another onslaught, and we instantly fell flat down like +tin soldiers struck with the well-directed pea, and disposed +ourselves at a convenient angle of resistance; +and so we went on, when we did go on at all. If the +relation is wearisome it is also realistic, for we found +that the actual experience was far from being lively; +but all things must have an end, including even the +<hi rend='italic'>feuilleton</hi> in a Parisian newspaper or the walk up to +<pb n='158'/><anchor id='Pg158'/>the Bel Alp on a hot day, and the termination came +almost unexpectedly. +</p> + +<note place="margin">A battle with the elements</note> + +<p> +We had got thoroughly tired of perpetually clinging +on by the simple force of adhesion to the storm-swept +slope, and felt almost inclined to give up the struggle +against the elements and to go straight on trusting to +chance. Maurer, below, wore the expression of frowning +discontent best seen in amateur tenors singing a +tender love ditty. Jaun had remarked half-a-dozen +times that the very next squall would infallibly sweep +us all away, and his cheerful prophetic utterances +really seemed on the point of being fulfilled, when, +almost suddenly, the snow seemed to vanish from +under our feet, and we found ourselves on the summit +of the ridge; at least directly above us no more ascent +appeared to present. It was difficult to realise adequately +the exact direction in which we were facing, +but I suppose that as the ridge runs about north and +south by the compass, we were facing a little south of +east. This was an important matter to decide, as the +mist was gathered thick around and the idea of descent +had to be at once considered now that we had got to +a position of some degree of definiteness. At our feet +the snow slope fell away in a manner so distinct that +we were without doubt really on the top of some portion +of the ridge. The difficulty was to estimate how +far to our right the summit of the Aiguille du Midi +itself lay. However, we felt with relief the truth of +<pb n='159'/><anchor id='Pg159'/>somebody’s remark that we had at length succeeded +in getting somewhere; so far, no doubt, matters were +satisfactory. Howbeit, our pleasure was somewhat +modified by the discovery that the gale blew with considerably +more force on the south-east side than it did +on the one by which we had ascended. We looked +towards the south and endeavoured to gather our wits +together to elucidate the geographical problem that +presented. At the foot of the slope must lie the +upper basin of the Vallée Blanche and the Glacier de +Tacul; unfortunately there seemed to be a prodigious +storm going on in that basin, and clouds of loose +snow were whirling about in all directions. It was +impossible to understand these winds; one might +have thought that Æolus had just stepped out to +attend a committee meeting of the gods, and that all +his subordinates were having high jinks during his +absence. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Beating the air</note> + +<p> +The possibility of actually completing the ascent +of the mountain seemed out of the question, and +the hope that we might have crept under the +shelter of the ridge to the final little rock cone of +the Aiguille was literally thrown to the winds. Here +again, therefore, this narrative is highly unconventional, +for it is impossible to consult M. Roget’s +<q>Thesaurus</q> and indulge with its aid in any grandiloquent +description of the view from the summit, +although my account has now reached the stage at +<pb n='160'/><anchor id='Pg160'/>which such word painting ought properly to be inserted. +We turned to our right, the direction in +which the peak lay, and walked some little way along +the ridge till we got under shelter of a rock; now we +were able once more to stand upright and, huddled +together, took the opportunity which had been denied +to us for some hours to interchange views. All agreed +that the situation was vile; that word, at least, may be +taken as the resultant of the various forcible epithets +actually employed. All agreed that the cold was +intense, the prospect doubtful, and the panorama <hi rend='italic'>nil</hi>. +There was but one redeeming feature: extreme discomfort +will reveal humour in those in whom that +quality would not be expected <hi rend='italic'>a priori</hi> to find a dwelling-place, +and to each one of us the spectacle of his +three wobegone companions seemed to afford, if not +amusement, at least an inkling of complacency. +Maurer removed the pack from his shoulders, and it +was then perceived that our cup of misery was full, +and our sole remaining bottle of wine completely +empty. We had originally started with two, one white +and one red, of an inferior and indigestible quality, +but had left the white wine down below on the snow; +we had previously drunk it. The other bottle had +broken against some projecting rock in climbing up, +and the resulting leakage had led to the formation of +a very large circular red patch in the small of Maurer’s +back, wherever that anatomical region might be +<pb n='161'/><anchor id='Pg161'/>situated in our squat and sturdy little guide. After +muttering together in patois for a little while the +guides seized their axes and suddenly commenced with +great vigour to hack out a large hole in the ice. We +fell to also, and for some few minutes all worked away +with the best of good will; the splinters and little +blocks of ice flew around under our blows, and before +long we had excavated a flat basin capable of holding +water. At the least, the exercise had the effect of +warming us, and Maurer, who previously, from the +effects of the cold, had been the colour of a congested +alderman in the face, gradually assumed a more +healthy hue. We now inquired what the object might +be of preparing this cavern. Thereupon Jaun gave vent +to the ingenious suggestion that we had better remain +where we were and sleep in it. The idea seemed too +likely to lead to permanent repose to be commendable, +and we received his proposition, as befitted its nature, +with some coolness, remarking that on the whole we +should prefer to go home. This view led to further +conversation; ultimately we descended a few feet on +the south-east side and then made our way along the +face of the slope in a south-westerly direction towards +the hut on the Aiguille du Midi. The snow was soft, +and we went on for some distance without difficulty, +till we again reached the ridge on the south-west side of +the Aiguille, having thus passed round the base of +the final peak of the mountain, which consists of a +<pb n='162'/><anchor id='Pg162'/>comparatively small rocky cone jutting up from the main +ridge. We were still of course a long way from the hut, +but as in this situation we were much more sheltered, we +took the opportunity to review the state of affairs and +to consider our position, which for the moment, like +that of the pocket of a lady’s ball dress, was indeterminate. +What were we to do? As with the diners +at <q>Prix fixe</q> restaurant, there were three courses for +us: we might go down on one side, we might descend +on the other side, or we might remain where we were. +The latter alternative was as distasteful now as it had +been just previously, and it was negatived decisively. +<q>Very good,</q> said the guides; <q>if you won’t stay here +we must go down that way,</q> and they pointed in a +direction westerly by the compass. My companion +and I were opposed to this plan for two reasons: one +that the route would, if it led anywhere in particular, +take us down to the Glacier des Bossons, where we did +not want to go, the other that by reason of the +marvellous fury of the hurricane it would have been +altogether impossible to follow at all the line indicated. +We were only in fact able to dart out from under +shelter of the rock and peer down into the misty +depths for a few seconds at a time, for the gale took +our breath away as completely as in the <q>cavern of +the winds</q> at Niagara. To have climbed down a new +and difficult rock cliff in the face of the numbing cold +would have been little short of suicidal. +</p> + +<pb n='163'/><anchor id='Pg163'/> + +<note place="margin">Descent down Vallée Blanche</note> + +<p> +It is Artemus Ward, I think, who describes the +ingenious manner in which Baron Trenck, of prison-breaking +fame, escaped on one occasion from durance +vile. For fifteen long years the Baron had lain +immured, and had tried in vain to carry out all the +sensational methods of escape ever suggesting themselves +to his fertile brain. At last an idea occurred to +him. He opened the door and walked out. By an +intellectual effort of almost equal brilliancy and +originality we solved the difficulty that beset us: we +turned towards the south-east and walked quietly +down the slope for a hundred feet or so. Simplicity +of thought is characteristic of great minds. Why, +nevertheless, it had not occurred to us before to escape +by this line I can no more explain than I can give the +reason why all the ladies in a concert-room smile, as +one woman, when a singer of their own sex makes her +appearance on the platform, or why itinerant harp +players always wear tall hats. Immediately the complexion +of affairs brightened up. The wind was much +less furious than it had been on the ridge, and the hail +was replaced by snow. Jaun now gave it as his +opinion that the best line of descent would consist in +crossing round the head of the Vallée Blanche and +the upper slopes of the Glacier du Géant, so as to join +the ordinary route leading from the Col du Géant to +the Montanvert. But in the thick mist it would have +been far from easy to hit off the right track, and we +<pb n='164'/><anchor id='Pg164'/>thought it possible to make a short cut to the same +end, and to find a way directly down the Vallée +Blanche towards the rocks known as the Petit +Rognon. We had no compass with us, but the direction +of the slope indicated the proper line of descent +to follow. In most years it would not be easy to +discover the way through the complicated crevasses of +the ice-fall situated between the <q>Rognon</q> and the +easterly rocks of the Aiguille du Midi; but in 18— so +much snow had fallen early in the spring and so little +had melted during the summer, that we experienced +comparatively little difficulty in descending almost in +a straight line. During this part of the expedition +the good qualities of our guides showed once more to +advantage. Unquestionably while on the ridge they +had put forward suggestions which were rather wild +in character, and which were proved now to be mistaken. +The intense cold and the beating of the storm +seemed rather to have paralysed their usually calm +judgment, and it is an odd fact that guides, even when +first rate, are oftentimes more affected by such conditions +than are the amateurs whom they conduct. +We could no more, with such experience as we +possessed, have led the way aright as our leader did +with unerring sagacity, than an untutored person +could write out a full orchestra score. We could only +insist on a given line being taken if in their judgment +it were possible. Once fairly started, we felt that we +<pb n='165'/><anchor id='Pg165'/>must push our plan through, employing the same +form of argument as the man did in support of a +bold statement that a certain beaver, closely pursued +by a dog, had climbed up a tree. It was not a +question now whether we could do it, or could not do +it; we had to do it. The day was far spent, there +was possibly much difficult work before us, and the +exertion already undergone had been tolerably severe. +The temptation was therefore great rather to scamp the +work of finding the best and safest track through the +ice-fall, but our leader displayed as much care and +thoroughness as if he were strolling over snow slopes +with a critical Chamouni guide behind him. A +momentary glimpse of the familiar form of the +Aiguille du Géant right in front of us confirmed the +judgment that we were on the right track. In +descending the ice-fall we passed to the right of the +Petit Rognon, and at the base of the Séracs halted and +thought we would have something to eat. Maurer produced +our stock of provisions, which consisted of one +roll studded with little bits of broken glass and reduced +by the action of wine and water to the consistence +of a poultice. The refection was, therefore, as unsatisfactory +as a meal out of a loosely tied nosebag to a +cab horse. And now for another departure from time-honoured +custom. All mountain narratives at this +period of the day make reference to the use of tobacco, +the well-earned pipe, and so forth. But the sleety rain, +<pb n='166'/><anchor id='Pg166'/>which for the last hour and a half had replaced the +snow, had soaked everything so thoroughly that an +attempt to carry out the orthodox proceeding did not, +like most failures, end in smoke. So we trudged on +again empty and unsolaced. +</p> + +<note place="margin">A scanty repast</note> + +<p> +As the shades of night were falling, four dripping and +woe-begone travellers might, to borrow the novelist’s +common mode of expression, have been observed +toiling up the steep path towards the old Montanvert +hotel—that is, they might have been observed by anybody +who was foolish enough to be out of doors on +such a detestable evening. We entered the familiar +little room, an ingenious compound of a toyshop and +a barrack, and notwithstanding that we were viewed +with marked disfavour by the other guests therein +assembled in consequence of our moist and steamy +condition, we seated ourselves and called for refreshment. +The atmosphere in the stuffy den called the +salon was a trifle pungent, and having contributed a +little additional dampness to the apartment we set off +again. That familiar old room with its odd collection +of curiosities, in which the fare was on the whole +more disproportionate to the price than at any +other institution of a similar kind in the mountains, +has ceased to exist long ago. I fancy that it did not +require much pulling down. It is happily replaced +now by one of the best managed and most comfortable +mountain hotels to be found in the Alps, a sure sign +<pb n='167'/><anchor id='Pg167'/>of which attraction is to be found in the fact that it is, +at any rate, spoken of with disfavour by the inhabitants +of the village below or by such as do not hold shares. +Another hour’s descent and we passed through the few +scattered houses just outside Chamouni. The attractions +on the way down had not diverted us from our stern +purpose of reaching Couttet’s hotel as soon as possible. +We had politely declined the invitation of a perennially +knitting young woman to view a live chamois. The +spasmodic smile called up by each approaching tourist +faded from her countenance as we passed by. Four +times did we decline the gentle refreshment of <hi rend='italic'>limonade +gazeuse</hi>, once did we sternly refuse to partake +of strawberries, and twice to purchase crystals. It +was dark as we neared the town; it may have been my +fancy, but I cannot help thinking that I perceived our +old friend the blind beggar with the lugubrious expression +which he wore when on duty, and with the tall +hat which served the purpose of an alms’-box, and +which he did not wear when on duty, enjoying himself +in a very merry manner by the side of a blazing fire. +Notwithstanding that night had fallen there was still +a little group by the bridge round the one-armed telescope +man, anxiously crowding to hear the last news +of the two insane Englishmen who had without doubt +perished that day miserably on the rocks of the Midi. +A project had already been started to organise an expedition +on the morrow to search for the bodies; and +<pb n='168'/><anchor id='Pg168'/>we might very possibly, if we had cared for the excitement, +have been allowed to join the party. +</p> + +<note place="margin">A projected expedition</note> + +<p> +As in a play the most striking situation is by +the discreet author reserved to the conclusion, so in +this contradictory chapter the most glaring deficiency +comes now at the end. My readers, if they have +generously followed me so far, will recognise that we +not only went on something of a fool’s errand, +incurring considerable difficulty and perhaps risk in +that mission, but that we never got up the mountain +at all. The force of contradictoriness can no +further go. Still, it may be pointed out that we did +actually accomplish all that was novel in the expedition. +Once on the ridge, the remaining portion +of the climb is, in fine weather, easy and well known, +so the fact that the Aiguille du Midi can be ascended +by this line by any one consumed with an ambition to +do so, is beyond doubt. We were not probably at one +point more than twenty minutes or half an hour from +the actual summit. I cannot honestly advise anybody +to follow our tracks; but in all probability, if someone +should desire to do so, he need not, under favourable +conditions, contemplate meeting with any unsurmountable +difficulties. +</p> +<anchor id="fig169"/> +<pgIf output='txt'><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: THE AIGUILLE DU DRU<lb/> +<hi rend='small'>FROM THE SOUTH</hi>]</p> +</then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illo_189.jpg" rend="w80"><head>THE AIGUILLE DU DRU<lb/> +<hi rend='small'>FROM THE SOUTH</hi></head> + <figDesc>The Aiguille du Dru from the South</figDesc></figure></p> +</else></pgIf> +</div><div type="chapter" n="6" rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb n='169'/><anchor id='Pg169'/> +<index index="toc" level1="VI. Ascent of the Aiguille du Dru"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="VI. Ascent of the Aiguille du Dru"/> +<head>CHAPTER VI.</head> + +<head type="sub">ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE DU DRU</head> + +<epigraph><p> +<q><hi rend='italic'>Decies repetita placebit</hi></q> +</p></epigraph> + +<argument><p> +Disadvantages of narratives of personal adventure—Expeditions on +the Aiguille du Dru in 1874—The ridge between the Aiguilles du +Dru and Verte—<q>Défendu de passer par là</q>—Distance lends +enchantment—Other climbers attack the peak—View of the +mountain from the Col de Balme—We try the northern side, +and fail more signally than usual—Showing that mountain fever is +of the recurrent type—We take seats below, but have no opportunity +of going up higher—The campaign opens—We go under canvas—A +spasmodic start, and another failure—A change of tactics +and a new leader—Our sixteenth attempt—Sports and pastimes +at Chamouni—The art of cray-fishing—The apparel oft proclaims +the man—A canine acquaintance—A new ally—The turning +point of the expedition—A rehearsal for the final performance—A +difficult descent—A blank in the narrative—A carriage misadventure—A +penultimate failure—We start with two guides +and finish with one—The rocks of the Dru—Maurer joins the +party—Our nineteenth attempt—A narrow escape in the gully—The +arête at last—The final scramble—Our foe is vanquished +and decorated—The return journey—Benighted—A moonlight +descent—We are graciously received—On <q>fair</q> mountaineering—The +prestige of new peaks—Chamouni becomes festive—<q>Heut’ +Abend grosses Feuerwerkfest</q>—Chamouni dances and shows +hospitality—The scene closes in. +</p></argument> + +<p> +It is to some extent an unfortunate circumstance that +in a personal narrative of adventure the result is +practically known from the very beginning. The only +uncertainty that can exist is the actual pattern on +<pb n='170'/><anchor id='Pg170'/>which the links of the chain are united together, for +the climax is from the outset a foregone conclusion. +The descriptive account will inevitably conduct the +reader along a more or less mazy path to an assured +goal. There is certainly one other variety, but that +takes the less satisfactory form of an obituary notice. +Even in a thoroughly well-acted play a perceptible +shudder runs through the audience when two actors +select each a chair, draw them down to the footlights, +and one announces <q>’Tis now some fourteen years +ago.</q> The expression in its pristine dramatic simplicity +may still be heard in transpontine theatres, +but modern realism insists usually on a paraphrase. +The audience cannot but feel, however thrilling the +story to be told, that at any rate the two players have +survived the adventures they have to narrate, and on +the whole a good many wish they hadn’t. There sit +the heroes, and exert themselves as they will their +recital is apt to fall somewhat flat. In like manner I +will not attempt to conceal the fact that the ultimate +result of our numerous attempts on the peak which +forms the subject of this chapter was that we got up it, +and the fact may also be divulged that we came down +again, and in safety. Indeed, it seems difficult now to +realise the length of time during which our ultimate +success oscillated in the balance—at one time appearing +hopeless, at another problematical, at times almost +certain, and then again apparently out of our reach. +</p> + +<pb n='171'/><anchor id='Pg171'/> + +<note place="margin">Expeditions on the Aig. du Dru</note> + +<p> +In 1874, with two guides, of whom Alexander +Burgener was one, we started for the Montanvert +with the intention of making for the ridge between the +Aiguille du Dru and the Aiguille Verte, with the object +of further investigating the route which Messrs. +Pendlebury, Kennedy and Marshall had essayed on an +occasion already described, when the bad condition +of the rocks frustrated their hopes. The mountain +was probably in a very different state on this occasion, +and we experienced no very great difficulty in discovering +a fairly easy route up the rocks. The chief +trouble consisted in the fact that the rock gully by +which the ascent is chiefly made was extensively plastered +over with ice, a condition in which we nearly +always found it. The last part of the climb up to +the ridge affords a most splendid scramble. The face +is so steep on either side that the climber comes quite +suddenly to a position whence he overlooks the +northern slope, if slope it may be called, and looks +down on to the Glacier du Nant Blanc. Seen in grey +shadow, or half shrouded in shifting mists and coloured +only with half-tints, the precipice is magnificent; huge +sheets of clear ice coat its flanks, and the almost unbroken +descent of rock affords as striking a spectacle +as the mountaineer fond of wild desolation can well +picture. +</p> + +<lg> +<l>If you would see this slope aright,</l> +<l>Look at it by the pale grey light.</l> +</lg> + +<pb n='172'/><anchor id='Pg172'/> + +<p> +On the left the mass of the Aiguille du Dru cuts +off the view of the fertile regions; far away on the right +the huge tapering towers of rock form a massive foreground +stretching away to the base of the Aiguille +Verte. The spectator too seems strangely shut off, +so that, gazing around, on either side he can see +but a narrow extent of the mountain. We looked +down and did not like what we saw; we looked up and +liked it less. The day was fine and the mountain in +good condition. I can recall now that our eyes must +have wandered over the very route that ultimately +proved to be the right one, and yet to none of us that +afternoon did it appear in the least degree possible. +Unquestionably the crags of the Aiguille du Dru looked +formidable enough from this point of view, and we +could not but think that nature must have provided +some easier mode of access to the summit than this +face seemed to afford. We climbed along the ridge till +we were almost against the face of the mountain, but +then we had to turn our gaze so directly upwards that +matters looked still worse. Then we faced about and +climbed in the other direction. The rocks seemed to +grow bigger and bigger the more we looked at them. +What the guides actually thought I do not quite know, +but at the moment my own impression was that it +would be impossible to ascend more than two or three +hundred feet: so we turned and came back. Even +while we yet descended the thought came that this +<pb n='173'/><anchor id='Pg173'/>face of the mountain was perhaps not so utterly hopeless +as it had appeared a few minutes previously, and +in my own mind I decided that, should we fail in discovering +some much more promising line from another +point of view, we would at least return to the ridge +often enough to familiarise ourselves with this aspect +of the mountain, with the idea that such familiarity +if it did not succeed in breeding contempt might at +least give birth to a more sanguine frame of mind. +The farther we got from our point of view the more +hopeful did the mental impression seem to become, +and by the time we reached Chamouni we had all +separately arrived at the conclusion—somewhat +selfish perhaps, but justifiable under the circumstances—that +if asked what we thought of the +possibility of ascending by the face we had tried, we +would give honestly the opinion we had formed while +on the ridge, and not the opinion at which we had +arrived subsequently. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Other climbers attack the peak</note> + +<p> +Other explorers were meanwhile at work on the +mountain, but so far as I could learn all their +attempts were made on the south-western peak. At +any rate they followed more or less the line we had +first struck out. Some thought that the lower peak +alone was feasible, others that the higher peak was +attainable only from the south-western side. So +thought Mr. E. R. Whitwell; so again, Mr. J. Birkbeck, +jun., both of whom reached probably a much +<pb n='174'/><anchor id='Pg174'/>higher point on the south-western face than we succeeded +in obtaining in 1873. +</p> + +<p> +In 1875 we were making our way once more by +the Col de Balme to Chamouni, and being in somewhat +of a reflective mood, induced by the consumption of a +soup-tureen full of bread and milk at the hotel at the top +of the pass, we sought a shady spot hard by whence a +good view of the Aiguille du Dru could be obtained, and +contemplated the precipices as seen from this point of +view. The northern slope leading up to the ridge over +which we had looked lay well before us. The upper +part of the mountain looked distinctly different as far +as accessibility was concerned. It seemed just possible, +if a way could only be found up from the level of +the ridge to a certain ledge some distance above, that +the final mass might be feasible. There appeared +to be a sort of gully sloping upwards in a direction +curved away from us, in which the snow lay so thick +that the rocks on either side could not, we thought, +be very steep. At the least it seemed to be worth +our while to make for this gully, which was obviously +unattainable from the ridge itself, for it was here cut +off by a belt of straight rock. +</p> + +<note place="margin">We try the northern side</note> + +<p> +A few days later we carried the idea into effect. It +was necessary to engage some one to carry the tent, +and Burgener was deputed to search for a porter of a +willing disposition and suitable physical conformation. +Presently he came back in company with a shambling +<pb n='175'/><anchor id='Pg175'/>youth of great length of limb and somewhat lanky +frame. We inquired if he were willing to come with +us, whereupon the young man was seized with violent +facial contortions, and we perceived that he suffered +from an impediment in his speech. Not wishing to +render him nervous by our presence, we took a short +turn in the garden, leaving him where he stood. On +our return the young man’s efforts culminated in the +remark, <q>How much?</q> We said, <q>Twenty-five francs,</q> +and then started off to consult the barometer. On +coming back after this interval we found that the +young man had just previously succeeded in articulating +<q>Yes.</q> The practical result of this one-sided +colloquy was that the next day the tall young man +was laden with the tent, with directions to carry it +up to a point immediately opposite the Montanvert +below the Glacier du Nant Blanc. The tall young +man shouldered his burden and started off with +great activity. We followed him somewhat later +under the rather transparent pretence of going to +hunt for crystals next day. Making our way up by +a long ridge lying between the Glacier du Nant +Blanc and a little snow patch dignified in some maps +by the appellation of the Glacier du Dru, we skirted +round the base of the Aiguille looking constantly +upwards to find some practicable line of ascent, and +hoping that we might discover one which would conduct +us up on to the main mass of the mountain +<pb n='176'/><anchor id='Pg176'/>before we had got opposite to the point by which we +had made our ascent from the southern side. It soon +became evident that we were very unlikely to find +a way. Far above jutted out a little horizontal table +of rock. Burgener observed that if we could only get +there it would be something. So far his remarks did +not appear inaccurate, but it was perfectly clear before +long that there was no chance of getting any higher, +supposing we could get on to this platform; yet a +little further, and we perceived that we could not even +get to it. Ultimately we discovered that the platform +itself was an optical delusion. It did not seem worth +while to make any attempt to reach the summit of +the ridge from the side we were on, even if we could +have done so, which I doubt. The day may come +when the climber will seek to discover some variation +to the route up the peak; but mountaineering skill +will indeed have improved out of all knowledge if +anyone ever succeeds in getting up this northern face. +From every point of view we surveyed it, and from every +point of view, in our opinion, it was equally impossible. +So in the evening we came back once more +to the tent, from the door of which protruded a pair +of thick boots. These encased the feet articulated to +the lanky legs of the tall young man, who had been +enjoying a siesta of some ten or twelve hours’ duration. +Kicking gently at a prominent bulging of the +canvas on the opposite side to the door had the +<pb n='177'/><anchor id='Pg177'/>effect of waking our slumbrous friend, who was exceedingly +sarcastic at our want of success; so, at +least, we judged by his expression of countenance. +For a long while his efforts yielded no verbal result. +But his words seemed as it were to stick fast in an +endeavour to bring them out three or four abreast +through a portal that was capable only of allowing +egress to them in single file. Of a sudden the jostling +syllables broke down the obstructing barrier, and he +startled us by pouring forth a string of remarks with +precipitate volubility. Knowing, however, that it +would be some time before we could hope to try the +peak again, we were not loth to leave him under the +impression, to be communicated to his friends at +Chamouni, that we had come to the conclusion that +the mountain was inaccessible. +</p> + +<note place="margin">The mountain fever recurs</note> + +<p> +It was not till 1878 that we were able to revisit +once more the scene of our many failures. +</p> + +<p> +During the winter months, however, the thought +of the stubborn Aiguille had been from time to time +discussed, and when J. Oakley Maund and I came +back to Chamouni we had very serious intentions. +This time we were both possessed with one fixed determination +with regard to the Aiguille. Either we +would get up to the top or, at the worst, would, as far +as lay in our power, prove that it was inaccessible by +any line of attack. By my wish, our first attempts +were to be made by the old route leading towards the +<pb n='178'/><anchor id='Pg178'/>lower peak; not that we were very sanguine of succeeding +by this line of ascent, but rather because we +felt that no very great amount of exploration would +be necessary to determine whether the higher point +could or could not be reached from this side; but +though our intentions were good we were scarcely +prepared for the difficulties that met us from the +beginning. The elements seemed to have set their +faces against us. Time after time when all was +ready for a start we were baulked by snow, wind, or +rain. Day after day we sat waiting in vain for the +favourable moment, sometimes at our bivouac high +up above the Mer de Glace, by the side of the Glacier +de la Charpoua, till hope deferred and a series +of <hi rend='italic'>table d’hôte</hi> dinners combined with want of +exercise to make the heart sick and the individual +despondently dyspeptic. Perhaps the wind would +shift round a point or two towards the north and a +couple of fine days occur. Straightway we set off for +the tent which we left concealed at the bivouac. +Then came the rain again, and we had to return +soaked and dejected. Sometimes it rained before +we got to the Montanvert and sometimes after, and in +fact we seemed to be making perpetually fitful excursions +from the kitchen fire at the Montanvert to that +at Couttet’s hotel. On hydropathic principles we +found the state of the elements no mean form of cure +for the mountain fever. Still, like the hungry butler, +<pb n='179'/><anchor id='Pg179'/>we reflected that everything comes to him who waits, +and seizing every possible opportunity did manage to +achieve some climbing during the rare intervals of +moderately favourable weather. +</p> + +<note place="margin">The campaign opens</note> + +<p> +The campaign was opened with an attempt made +with Jaun and Andreas Maurer as guides. A youth +of hollow visage and weak joints (a relation, possibly, +of our friend with the one defective articulation), who +did not much enter into the spirit of the expedition, +and who seemed by his expression to echo Hamlet’s +interrogation as to the necessity of bearing fardels, +carried our tent up to the grass slopes by the +Charpoua glacier. Here, on a smooth, level patch +of turf surrounded on three sides by rocks, we established +a little country seat, though we scarcely realised +on this first occasion how often it would be our lot +to run up and spend the night there, and to return +to town the following morning. There are many +and excellent camping places about these slopes; dry +dwarf rhododendron bushes abound, and water is +plentiful. There was no difficulty in rising early the +next morning, for at some time in the small hours the +spindle-legged porter was seized with terrible cramp. +Under ordinary circumstances his lower limbs were +imperfectly under his control, and when thus affected +they became perfectly ungovernable, so that the +neat order in which we had disposed ourselves overnight +for slumber was rudely disarranged, and we +<pb n='180'/><anchor id='Pg180'/>were forced to rise and turn out till the spasms +should have subsided. Under the influence of gentle +friction the spasms quieted down, and when we left +he was troubled only with a few twitching kicks, such +as may be observed in a dreaming dog. At 2 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> +we started and wended our way up the glacier, every +step of which seemed familiar. To our surprise +and delight the snow was in first-rate order, and +our spirits rose at the prospect of a good climb; +but the time had not yet come for success, and our +hopes were soon to be dashed. There was still an +immense amount of snow on the lower rock slopes +over which access to the south-western peak is alone +possible, and this snow was in a highly treacherous +condition. Before we had ascended many feet the +guides very properly refused to go on, a determination +with which we felt ourselves bound to acquiesce. +They pointed out that it would be unwarrantably +dangerous to descend late in the afternoon over deep +snow, soft, and but loosely adhering to the rocks. +Under such conditions it is of course impossible to +judge of the foothold, and there is nothing to hold on +to with the hands. There was no other alternative, +therefore, if we were to follow this route, than to wait +till more of the snow should have melted, or else to +find a track where the rocks were bare. As far as we +could ascertain, however, there was no such track to +be seen. We decided to go back, but still remained at +<pb n='181'/><anchor id='Pg181'/>Chamouni, for we durst not lose a single favourable +opportunity. With an imperturbability bred of long +experience did we meet the sniggers and sneers of +certain croakers below, who looked with an unfavourable +eye on our proceedings. +</p> + +<note place="margin">A new leader</note> + +<p> +Within the next fortnight we made two further +attempts by much the same route and with the same +guides, but only succeeded in going far enough to +prove that the opinion of the guides was perfectly +correct with regard to the state of the snow. Already +matters seemed to justify some gloomy doubt as to +whether we could carry out even the exploratory +part of our programme, for Jaun was compelled to +leave us in order to fulfil another engagement, and +we scarcely knew where to turn to find another man +capable of guiding us in the way we desired to go. +Still our determination was unshaken by our run of +ill-luck. We would not give it up. With no more +definite object than that of justifying an impending +<hi rend='italic'>table d’hôte</hi> dinner, I was walking up the Montanvert +path one rainy afternoon, when a ray of sunlight +suddenly burst upon me in the person of Alexander +Burgener. He had come over the Col du Géant with +a party of travellers, and to our delight was not only +disengaged, but exceedingly anxious to attack once +more, or, in fact, as often as we liked, the obstinate +Aiguille. From the moment that he assumed the +chief command matters began to wear a different +<pb n='182'/><anchor id='Pg182'/>complexion, for we learnt that he had taken every +opportunity to consider and study the mountain. By +his advice a complete change of tactics was adopted. +We decided to abandon all idea of attacking the +lower peak, and made up our minds to try the higher +summit by the route we had first followed four years +previously. We had often discussed together our +chances of success on this peak, and had often come +to the conclusion that its ascent was more than +doubtful. But now Burgener was so positive of ultimate +triumph, and so confident in his own powers, +not only of getting up himself, but of getting us also +to our goal, that the whole matter seemed placed +before us in a different light. We might have to +wait, we might have to try many times, but still we +could not but believe the impression that now gradually +formed that we must ultimately succeed. To +the spirit which Burgener displayed that year, and +which he imbued in us (at a time when it must be +confessed that such a spirit was much wanted, for +we were as downcast as water-cure patients during +the process), and to his sagacity and great guiding +qualities, the whole of our ultimate success was due. +I knew that, as a guide, he was immeasurably superior +to an amateur in his trained knack of finding the +way, and that in quickness on rocks the two could +hardly be compared. But previously it had always +seemed to me that the amateur excelled in one great +<pb n='183'/><anchor id='Pg183'/>requisite, viz., pluck. Let this record show that in +one instance at least this estimate was erroneous, for +had it not been for Burgener’s indomitable pluck we +should never have succeeded in climbing the Aiguille +du Dru. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Our sixteenth attempt</note> + +<p> +Burgener was of opinion that from the summit of +the actual ridge lying east of the higher peak, and +between it and the Aiguille Verte, it was not feasible +to ascend on to the face of the mountain, and he +proposed accordingly that we should commence by +making a study of the rocks lying to the left of the +main gully running up to this same ridge, endeavouring +if possible to discover some point where we could +bear off to the left on to the real mass of the mountain. +In addition he pointed out that the upper rocks +might be very difficult and require much time (as we +had already agreed together in previous years that +they were altogether impossible, this remark seemed +probable enough), and it was important therefore to +discover the easiest and quickest way up the lower part +of the rock slopes. Accordingly we departed—and +this was our sixteenth attempt—from the Montanvert +one morning at 1 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> We had long since cultivated +a manner of going about our business in such a way +as to avoid the gaze of the curious, and set forth on +this occasion in much the same spirit that burglars +adopt when on evil errands intent. The day was entirely +spent as agreed in studying the lower rocks and +<pb n='184'/><anchor id='Pg184'/>working out accurately the most feasible line of assault. +But though we ascended on this occasion to no very +great height we were perpetually engaged in climbing, +and the quantity of snow which still lay on the rocks +rendered progress difficult and care necessary. Still +it was no haphazard exploration that we were engaged +in, and the spirit of deliberation in which we +began begat a spirit of hopefulness as we went on. +A fancied insufficiency of guiding strength, coupled +with a decidedly insufficient supply of rope and an +inherent idea that the new line of assault contemplated +was not to be worked out to an end at the first +attempt, all combined to drive us back to Chamouni +late the same evening. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Sports and pastimes</note> + +<p> +<hi rend='italic'>Après cela le déluge</hi>, and for a long time high mountaineering +of any description was out of the question. +Desperate were the attempts we made to amuse ourselves, +and to while away the time. Sports and +pastimes within the limited area of the hotel premises +were the fashion for a time. The courtyard in front of +Couttet’s hotel was made into a lawn-tennis ground. +The village stores being ransacked yielded a limited +supply of parti-coloured india-rubber balls; the village +carpenter constructed bats out of flat pieces of wood, +and we sought to forget the unpropitious elements by +playing morning, noon, and night. As a result several +windows and a lamp were reduced to ruin. Then we +went a-crayfishing. A basket carriage, which was +con<pb n='185'/><anchor id='Pg185'/>structed apparently of iron sheeting, but painted over +with a wicker-work pattern in order to deceive a flea-bitten +grey steed of great age with the impression that +it was very light, conveyed us to Châtelard, which by a +twofold inaccuracy was termed the fishing-ground, our +object being to catch animals which were not fish and +lived in water. There the sport began, and was conducted +on this wise. Sticks with a cleft at the end, +into which nondescript pieces of ill-smelling meat +were wedged, were submerged in a little brook to tempt +the prey, but the only bites we got were from the +horse-flies and inflicted on our own persons; howbeit, +one or two of the party when at a distance from their +fellow-sportsmen averred that they had been on a +point of catching monsters of the deep the size of +lobsters. We did not discover till subsequently that, +led astray by a plausible peasant possessed of riparian +rights and untruthful propensities, we had been fishing +(or <q>crustaceaning,</q> to speak correctly) all day in a +stream untenanted by any crayfish whatever, the +result being that we caught a chill and nothing else. +The ancient steed, moreover, though he bowled along +merrily enough down the hill to Châtelard and required +no more stimulus than an occasional chirrup +from the driver afforded, was yet very loth to draw +the party back up the hill at the same pace, and +required such constant stimulation of a more active +kind on the way back that it was found necessary +<pb n='186'/><anchor id='Pg186'/>before we reached the village to stop and smooth out +the creases on his sides. The next day the report +came that the spotted grey was <q>très malade,</q> and the +next day too my right arm was excessively stiff. +</p> + +<p> +A subsequent sporting expedition yielded happier +results. One of the party, gifted with diplomatic talents +and a power of detecting the vulnerable points in the +character of the natives, purchased, for the sum of +one franc, information from a shockheaded juvenile +suffering from a skin eruption as to the best stocked +streams. Then did the deep yield up its carnivorous +denizens. Artfully and in silence did the anglers wait +for their prey to claw the reeking bait. Deftly and +warily did they withdraw the rod, sometimes with two +or three victims clinging in a bunch, and land the spoil +on the bank. Then would the crayfish loosen their +hold, roll over on their backs, flap their tails very +briskly, and start off with amazing rapidity for short +country walks, speedily to be captured and consigned +to the recesses of a receptacle, bearing a suspicious resemblance +to Madame Couttet’s work-basket. Ultimately +they formed the basis of a <q>bisque</q> not unworthy +of Brébant. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Apparel oft proclaims the man</note> + +<p> +What time the india-rubber balls were all burst +and the fishing-ground had lost its attraction, seated +on a tilted chair beneath the verandah we fell a-musing +and studied human nature, and the various types that +presented day after day round and about the hotel. +<pb n='187'/><anchor id='Pg187'/>Much was there to marvel at in many of the costumes, +to many of which the late Mr. Planché himself would +have been unable to assign a date. It has been +noticed of course, times out of mind, as a characteristic +of the Briton, that a costume in which he would not +go coal-heaving at home is considered good enough +for Sunday in the Alps. One gentleman indeed, +whose own apparel would have been considered untidy +even if he had been a member of a shipwrecked crew, +had been enlarging on this topic with much fervour, +to a select audience, dwelling especially on the discourtesy +thus shown to the natives of the country. I +looked, when Sunday came, that he should be clad in +raiment of more than ordinary fitness and splendour, +but the only changes that I could perceive from the +week-day vesture consisted in a tall hat, which somebody +had mistaken for an opera hat on some occasion, +and a long strip of rag wound round a cut finger, +while his wife, who had recently been on the glaciers, +appeared in a low cut dress, so that she presented a +curious piebald appearance. The lateness of the season +may have accounted for the fact that many of the garments +seemed rapidly to be resolving into their pristine +condition of warp and woof, especially about the region +where it is usual in the Alps to light the poison-darting +lucifer matches of the country. There were flannel +shirts with collars on some, and flannel shirts without +them on others, while yet a third set wore white +<pb n='188'/><anchor id='Pg188'/>chokers round their necks made of vulcanite, so that +they looked like favourite pug-dogs, or fashioned of a +shiny paper, which obviously had no more to do with +the garment with which they were temporarily associated +than the label of an expensive wine at a second-rate +restaurant has to do with the contents of the bottle. +Then we fell to anatomical study, and marvelled at +the various imperfections of development the muscle +known to the learned as the gastrocnemius<note place="foot">Described in anatomical text-books as forming the swelling of +the calf.</note> could +exhibit in the legs of our countrymen, and wondered +why they took such pains in their costume to display +its usually unsymmetrical proportions, and wondered +too if they really believed that a double folding back +of the upper part of the stocking below the knickerbocker +deceived anyone with an appearance of mighty +thews. Then we went off and tapped the barometer, +which was as devoid of principle as a bone setter, and +kept on persistently rising. We made friends with +a little stray waif of a dog of obsequious demeanour +and cringing disposition, prone to roll over on its +back when spoken to, thereby displaying a curiously +speckled stomach, but which was withal inclined to be +amiable, and wagged its tail so vigorously on being +noticed that I quite feared it might sustain a sprain +at the root of that appendage. But our friendship +was short-lived. Before long our little friend found +<pb n='189'/><anchor id='Pg189'/>an acquaintance in the shape of a small semi-shaved +mongrel with a tail like a stalk of asparagus run +to seed. After a little preliminary walking about on +tiptoe, friendly overtures were made. The game +commenced by the playmates licking each others’ +noses; next they ran round with surprising rapidity +in very small circles, and then fell to wrestling in the +middle of the courtyard. These canine acquaintanceships +always end in the same way. Before long a +sudden, sharp squeak was heard, and the last I saw of +my little friend was a vanishing form darting round +the nearest corner, with his tail as much between his +legs as the excessive shortness of that excrescence +would permit. His playmate, somewhat disturbed +for a moment by this abrupt termination of the +acquaintanceship, gazed pensively, with ears erect, +for a while in the direction in which his friend had +vanished: then investigated two or three unimportant +objects by the sense of smell, consumed a few blades +of grass, yawned twice, stretched himself once, rolled +on something which had puzzled him, and retired +to repose at a little distance to await the expected +medicinal effects of the herb of which he had partaken. +</p> + +<note place="margin">A canine acquaintance</note> + +<p> +This is a true saying, that <q>There’s small choice +in rotten apples,</q> and a description of boredom in one +place is much like the same in another. Gradually, +weariness of the flesh below in the valley became +<pb n='190'/><anchor id='Pg190'/>almost intolerable, while we were longing for an +opportunity to weary the flesh, in another way, on the +mountain. Ultimately, to my infinite regret, Maund +found himself obliged to depart to fulfil an engagement +elsewhere, but I still held on, though the conviction +was daily becoming stronger that the rain +would go on till the winter snows came. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Turning point of the expedition</note> + +<p> +On a mountain such as we knew the Aiguille du +Dru to be it would not have been wise to make any +attempt with a party of more than four. No doubt +three—that is, an amateur with two guides—would +have been better still, but I had, during the enforced +inaction through which we had been passing, become +so convinced of ultimate success that I was anxious +to find a companion to share it. Fortunately, +J. Walker Hartley, a highly skilful and practised +mountaineer, was at Chamouni, and it required but +little persuasion to induce him to join our party. +Seizing an opportunity one August day when the +rain had stopped for a short while, we decided to try +once more, or at any rate to see what effects the +climatic phases through which we had been passing +had produced on the Aiguille. With Alexander +Burgener and Andreas Maurer still as guides we +ascended once again the slopes by the side of the +Charpoua glacier, and succeeded in discovering a +still more eligible site for a bivouac than on our previous +attempts. A little before four the next morning +<pb n='191'/><anchor id='Pg191'/>we extracted each other from our respective sleeping +bags, and made our way rapidly up the glacier. The +snow still lay thick everywhere on the rocks, which +were fearfully cold and glazed with thin layers of +slippery ice; but our purpose was very serious that +day, and we were not to be deterred by anything +short of unwarrantable risk. We intended the climb +to be merely one of exploration, but were resolved to +make it as thorough as possible, and with the best +results. From the middle of the slope leading up to +the ridge the guides went on alone while we stayed to +inspect and work out bit by bit the best routes over +such parts of the mountain as lay within view. In +an hour or two Burgener and Maurer came back to +us, and the former invited me to go on with him back +to the point from which he had just descended. His +invitation was couched in gloomy terms, but there +was a twinkle at the same time in his eye which it +was easy to interpret—<hi rend='italic'>ce n’est que l’œil qui rit</hi>. We +started off and climbed without the rope up the way +which was now so familiar, but which on this occasion, +in consequence of the glazed condition of the +rocks, was as difficult as it could well be; but for a +growing conviction that the upper crags were not +so bad as they looked we should scarcely have persevered. +<q>Wait a little,</q> said Burgener, <q>I will show +you something presently.</q> We reached at last a +great knob of rock close below the ridge, and for a +<pb n='192'/><anchor id='Pg192'/>long time sat a little distance apart silently staring +at the precipices of the upper peak. I asked Burgener +what it might be that he had to show me. He +pointed to a little crack some way off, and begged that +I would study it, and then fell again to gazing at it +very hard himself. Though we scarcely knew it at the +time, this was the turning point of our year’s climbing. +Up to that moment I had only felt doubts as to +the inaccessibility of the mountain. Now a certain +feeling of confident elation began to creep over me. +The fact is, that we gradually worked ourselves up +into the right mental condition, and the aspect of a +mountain varies marvellously according to the beholder’s +frame of mind. These same crags had been +by each of us independently, at one time or another, +deliberately pronounced impossible. They were in +no better condition that day than usual, in fact in +much worse order than we had often seen them +before. Yet, notwithstanding that good judges +had ridiculed the idea of finding a way up the precipitous +wall, the prospect looked different that day +as turn by turn we screwed our determination up to +the sticking point. Here and there we could clearly +trace short bits of practicable rock ledges along which +a man might walk, or over which at any rate he might +transport himself, while cracks and irregularities +seemed to develop as we looked. Gradually, uniting +and communicating passages appeared to form. Faster +<pb n='193'/><anchor id='Pg193'/>and faster did our thoughts travel, and at last we rose +and turned to each other. The same train of ideas +had independently been passing through our minds. +Burgener’s face flushed, his eyes brightened, and he +struck a great blow with his axe as we exclaimed +almost together, <q>It must, and it shall be done!</q> +</p> + +<note place="margin">A difficult descent</note> + +<p> +The rest of the day was devoted to bringing +down the long ladder, which had previously been +deposited close below the summit of the ridge, to a +point much lower and nearer to the main peak. This +ladder had not hitherto been of the slightest assistance +on the rocks, and had indeed proved a source of +constant anxiety and worry, for it was ever prone to +precipitate its lumbering form headlong down the +slope. We had, it is true, used it occasionally on the +glacier to bridge over the crevasses, and had saved +some time thereby. Still we were loth to discard its +aid altogether, and accordingly devoted much time +and no little exertion to hauling it about and fixing it +in a place of security. It was late in the evening +before we had made all our preparations for the next +assault and turned to the descent, which proved to +be exceedingly difficult on this occasion. The snow +had become very soft during the day; the late hour +and the melting above caused the stones to fall so +freely down the gully that we gave up that line of +descent and made our way over the face. Often, in +travelling down, we were buried up to the waist in +<pb n='194'/><anchor id='Pg194'/>soft snow overlying rock slabs, of which we knew no +more than that they were very smooth and inclined at +a highly inconvenient angle. It was imperative for one +only to move at a time, and the perpetual roping and +unroping was most wearisome. In one place it was +necessary to pay out 150 feet of rope between one +position of comparative security and the one next +below it, till the individual who was thus lowered +looked like a bait at the end of a deep sea line. One +step and the snow would crunch up in a wholesome +manner and yield firm support. The next, and the +leg plunged in as far as it could reach, while the submerged +climber would, literally, struggle in vain to +collect himself. Of course those above, to whom the +duty of paying out the rope was entrusted, would +seize the occasion to jerk as violently at the cord as +a cabman does at his horse’s mouth when he has misguided +the animal round a corner. Now another step +and a layer of snow not more than a foot deep would +slide off with a gentle hiss, exposing bare, black ice +beneath, or treacherous loose stones. Nor were our +difficulties at an end when we reached the foot of the +rocks, for the head of the glacier had fallen away from +the main mass of the mountain, even as an ill-constructed +bow window occasionally dissociates itself +from the façade of a jerry-built villa, and some very +complicated manœuvring was necessary in order to +reach the snow slopes. It was not till late in the +<pb n='195'/><anchor id='Pg195'/>evening that we reached Chamouni; but it would have +mattered nothing to us even had we been benighted, +for we had seen all that we had wanted to see, and I +would have staked my existence now on the possibility +of ascending the peak. But the moment was not +yet at hand, and our fortress held out against +surrender to the very last by calling in its old allies, +sou’westerly winds and rainy weather. The whirligig +of time had not yet revolved so as to bring us in our +revenge. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="stars: 8"/> + +<note place="margin">A blank in the narrative</note> + +<p> +Perhaps the monotonous repetition of failures on +the peak influences my recollection of what took +place subsequently to the expedition last mentioned. +Perhaps (as I sometimes think even now) an intense +desire to accomplish our ambition ripened into a +realisation of actual occurrences which really were only +efforts of imagination. This much I know, that when +on September 7 we sat once more round a blazing +wood fire at the familiar bivouac gazing pensively at +the crackling fuel, it seemed hard to persuade one’s-self +that so much had taken place since our last +attempt. Leaning back against the rock and closing +the eyes for a moment it seemed but a dream, whose +reality could be disproved by an effort of the will, +that we had gone to Zermatt in a storm and hurried +back again in a drizzle on hearing that some other +climbers were intent on our peak; that we had left +<pb n='196'/><anchor id='Pg196'/>Chamouni in rain and tried, for the seventeenth time, +in a tempest; that matters had seemed so utterly +hopeless, seeing that the season was far advanced and +the days but short, as to induce me to return to +England, leaving minute directions that if the snow +should chance to melt and the weather to mend I +might be summoned back at once; that after eight-and-forty +hours of sojourn in the fogs of my native +land an intimation had come by telegraph of glad +tidings; that I had posted off straightway by <hi rend='italic'>grande +vitesse</hi> back to Chamouni; that I had arrived there +at four in the morning, in consequence of a little +misadventure, which may be here parenthetically +narrated. +</p> + +<note place="margin">A carriage misadventure</note> + +<p> +The afternoon diligence from Geneva did not go +beyond Sallanches. However, an ingenious young +man of low commercial morality, who said that he had +a remarkable horse and a super-excellent carriage, +was persuaded to drive me on the remainder of the +way to Chamouni. The young man, observing that +he had been very busy of late and had not been to +bed for two nights (nor had he, as might be judged, +washed or tidied himself since last he sought repose), +took a very hearty drink out of a tumbler and climbed +on to an eminence like a long-legged footstool, which +it appeared was the box seat. With much cracking +of whips and various ill-tempered remarks to his +horse we started with success, aided by the efforts of a +<pb n='197'/><anchor id='Pg197'/>well-meaning person (judging by the way in which he +wore his braces loosely encircling his waist, devoted to +the tending of horses), who, to oblige his friend the +driver, ran suddenly at the slothful animal in the +shafts and punched the beast very heartily in the ribs +with his fist. Before we had gone a mile our troubles +began. The coachman’s ill-humour subsided, it is true, +but only in consequence of Nature’s soft nurse weighing +his eyelids down. Accordingly I got out my axe and +poked him in the back when he curled up under the influence +of his fatigue. This made him swear a good +deal, but for a time the device was successful enough. +Gradually the monotonous jangling of the harness bells +induced a somnolent disposition in me too, and I conceived +then the brilliant idea, as we were ascending +the long hill near St. Gervais at a walk, of planting +the head of the axe against my own chest and arranging +the weapon in such a way that the spike was in +close contact with the small of the driver’s back, so +that when he fell back it would run into him. Of a +sudden I opened my eyes to find that the jangling had +ceased and the carriage stopped. We were undoubtedly +at Chamouni, and the journey was at an end. +Such, however, was not quite the case. As a matter +of fact, we were not 200 yards further up the hill, the +horse was peacefully grazing by the roadside, and +the young man had eluded my artful contrivance by +falling forwards off the box, where he lay crumpled up +<pb n='198'/><anchor id='Pg198'/>into a shapeless heap, peacefully asleep, entangled +between the shafts, the traces, the splinter bar, and the +horse’s tail. +</p> + +<p> +I rubbed my eyes and forced away by an effort the +confused jumble and whirl of thoughts that were +crowding through the brain. It was not the sound of +the parting farewell as the diligence lumbered away +from Chamouni, nor the slow heavy clank of the +railway carriages as they entered the station, nor the +voices of the railway porters that rang in my ears. +Voices there were, but they were familiar. I started +up and looked around. Surely that was the familiar +outline of the Aiguille du Dru clear and bright above; +surely that was Hartley (occupied for the moment in +mollifying the effects of sunburn by anointing his face +with the contents of a little squeeze-bottle), and there +was Burgener; but what was this untidy, sleeping +mass at our feet? Gradually it dawned upon me that +I was but inverting a psychological process and trying +to make a dream out of a reality. Hartley was there; +Burgener was there; and the uncomely bundle was +the outward form of the most incompetent guide in +all the Alps. It was not till next day that we +learnt that this creature had previously distinguished +himself by utter imbecility in a difficult ascent up the +north face of the Zermatt Breithorn, nor did we till +the next day fully realise how bad a guide a man +ranking as such might be. We kicked him in a +<pb n='199'/><anchor id='Pg199'/>suitable place and he awoke; then he made the one +true remark that during our acquaintance with him +he was heard to utter. He said he had been drunk +the day before; with this he relapsed, and during the +remainder of the time he was with us gave expression +to nothing but whining complaints and inaccurate +statements. +</p> + +<note place="margin">A strange guide</note> + +<p> +From four in the morning of the next day till +seven in the evening, when we reached our bivouac +again, we were climbing without intermission; not +that our imbecile friend took any very active share +in the day’s amusement. He was roped as last man +in the caravan, and Hartley had to drag him up the +glacier. He was as slow of foot as he was of understanding, +and took no interest in the expedition. Twice +we pointed out to him half-hidden crevasses and +begged that he would be careful. Twice did he +acknowledge our courtesy by disappearing abruptly +into the snowy depths. Then he favoured us with a +short biographical sketch of his wife, her attributes, +and her affection for himself: he narrated the chief +characteristics of his children, and dilated on the +responsible position that as father of a family +(probably all crétins, if there be any truth in the +hereditary transmission of parental qualities) he considered +that he occupied. Finally, as he appeared +disposed to give us at length a memoir of his grandfather +deceased, we decided to unrope him and let +<pb n='200'/><anchor id='Pg200'/>him have his own way in peace. For seven hours +did he crouch under a little rock, not daring to move +either up or down, or even to take the knapsack off +his back. +</p> + +<p> +For the first time on this occasion did we succeed +in climbing on to the main peak well above the level +of the ridge we had so often reached, by means of +leaving the gully at a much earlier point than usual. +We followed the exact line that we had marked out +mentally on the last occasion. At first progress was +easy, but we could only make our way very slowly, +seeing that we had but one short rope and only +one guide; for we had injudiciously left the longer +spare rope with our feeble-minded guide below, and +no shouts or implorations could induce him to make +his way up to us, nor had we leisure to go down +to him; so we had to make the best of matters as +they were. We soon found a place where the +ladder might be of service, and spent some time in +placing it in a position in which it remains I believe +till this day. +</p> + +<p> +Now, personal considerations had to a great extent +to be lost sight of in the desire to make the most of +the day, and the result was that Hartley must have +had a very bad time of it. Unfortunately perhaps for +him he was by far the lightest member of the party; +accordingly we argued that he was far less likely to +break the rickety old ladder than we were. Again, +<pb n='201'/><anchor id='Pg201'/>as the lightest weight, he was most conveniently +lowered down first over awkward places when they +occurred. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Our <q>jeune premier</q></note> + +<p> +In the times which are spoken of as old, and which +have also, for some not very definable reason, the +prefix good, if you wanted your chimneys swept +you did not employ an individual now dignified +by the title of a Ramoneur, but you adopted the +simpler plan of calling in a master sweep. This +person would come attended by a satellite, who +wore the outward form of a boy and was gifted +with certain special physical attributes. Especially +was it necessary that the boy should be of such a size +and shape as to fit nicely to the chimney, not so +loosely on the one hand as to have any difficulty in +ascending by means of his knees and elbows, nor so +tightly on the other as to run any peril of being +wedged in. The boy was then inserted into the +chimney and did all the work, while the master remained +below or sat expectant on the roof to encourage, +to preside over, and subsequently to profit by, his +apprentice’s exertions. We adopted much the same +principle. Hartley, as the lightest, was cast for the <hi rend='italic'>rôle</hi> +of the <q>jeune premier</q> or boy, while Burgener and +I on physical grounds alone filled the part, however +unworthily, of the master sweep. As a play not infrequently +owes its success to one actor, so did our +<q>jeune premier,</q> sometimes very literally, pull us +<pb n='202'/><anchor id='Pg202'/>through on the present occasion. Gallantly indeed +did he fulfil his duty. Whether climbing up a ladder +slightly out of the perpendicular, leaning against +nothing in particular and with overhanging rocks +above; whether let down by a rope tied round his +waist, so that he dangled like the sign of the <q>Golden +Fleece</q> outside a haberdasher’s shop, or hauled up +smooth slabs of rock with his raiment in an untidy +heap around his neck; in each and all of these exercises +he was equally at home, and would be let down +or would come up smiling. One place gave us great +difficulty. An excessively steep wall of rock presented +itself and seemed to bar the way to a higher level. A +narrow crack ran some little way up the face, but +above the rock was slightly overhanging, and the water +trickling from some higher point had led to the formation +of a huge bunch of gigantic icicles, which hung +down from above. It was necessary to get past these, +but impossible to cut them away, as they would have +fallen on us below. Burgener climbed a little way up +the face, planted his back against it, and held on to +the ladder in front of him, while I did the same just +below: by this means we kept the ladder almost perpendicular, +but feared to press the highest rung +heavily against the icicles above lest we should break +them off. We now invited Hartley to mount up. +For the first few steps it was easy enough; but the +leverage was more and more against us as he climbed +<pb n='203'/><anchor id='Pg203'/>higher, seeing that he could not touch the rock, and +the strain on our arms below was very severe. However, +he got safely to the top and disappeared from +view. The performance was a brilliant one, but, fortunately, +had not to be repeated; as on a subsequent +occasion, by a deviation of about fifteen or twenty +feet, we climbed to the same spot in a few minutes +with perfect ease and without using any ladder at all. +On this occasion, however, we must have spent fully +an hour while Hartley performed his feats, which +were not unworthy of a Japanese acrobat. Every +few feet of the mountain at this part gave us difficulty, +and it was curious to notice how, on this the first +occasion of travelling over the rock face, we often +selected the wrong route in points of detail. We +ascended from twenty to fifty feet, then surveyed +right and left, up and down, before going any further. +The minutes slipped by fast, but I have no doubt now +that if we had had time we might have ascended to +the final arête on this occasion. We had often to +retrace our steps, and whenever we did so found some +slightly different line by which time could have been +saved. Though the way was always difficult nothing +was impossible, and when the word at last was +given, owing to the failing light, to descend, we had +every reason to be satisfied with the result of the +day’s exploration. There seemed to be little doubt +that we had traversed the most difficult part of the +<pb n='204'/><anchor id='Pg204'/>mountain, and, indeed, we found on a later occasion, +with one or two notable exceptions, that such was +the case. +</p> + +<note place="margin">An acrobatic performance</note> + +<p> +However, at the time we did not think that, even +if it were possible, it would be at all advisable to +make our next attempt without a second guide. A +telegram had been sent to Kaspar Maurer, instructing +him to join us at the bivouac with all possible expedition. +The excitement was thus kept up to the +very last, for we knew not whether the message might +have reached him, and the days of fine weather were +precious. +</p> + +<p> +It was late in the evening when we reached again +the head of the glacier, and the point where we had +left the feeble creature who had started with us as a +second guide. On beholding us once more he wept +copiously, but whether his tears were those of gratitude +for release from the cramped position in which he +had spent his entire day, or of joy at seeing us safe +again, or whether they were the natural overflow of +an imbecile intellect stirred by any emotion whatever, +it were hard to say; at any rate he wept, and then +fell to a description of some interesting details concerning +the proper mode of bringing up infants, and +the duties of parents towards their children: the +most important of which, in his estimation, was that +the father of a family should run no risk whatever +on a mountain. Reaching our bivouac, we +<pb n='205'/><anchor id='Pg205'/>looked anxiously down over the glacier for any +signs of Kaspar Maurer. Two or three parties +were seen crawling homewards towards the Montanvert +over the ice-fields, but no signs of our guide +were visible. As the shades of night, however, were +falling, we were able indistinctly to see in the far-off +distance a little black dot skipping over the Mer de +Glace with great activity. Most eagerly did we watch +the apparition, and when finally it headed in our +direction and all doubt was removed as to the personality, +we felt that our constant ill-luck was at last +on the eve of changing. However, it was not till two +days later that we left Chamouni once more for the +nineteenth and, as it proved, for the last time to try +the peak. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Our nineteenth attempt</note> + +<p> +On September 11, we sat on the rocks a few +feet above the camping-place. Never before had we +been so confident of success. The next day’s climb +was no longer to be one of exploration. We were +to start as early as the light would permit, and we +were to go up and always up, if necessary till the +light should fail. Possibly we might have succeeded +long before if we had had the same amount of determination +to do so that we were possessed with on +this occasion. We had made up our minds to succeed, +and felt as if all our previous attempts had been but +a sort of training for this special occasion. We had +gone so far as to instruct our friends below to look +<pb n='206'/><anchor id='Pg206'/>out for us on the summit between twelve and two the +next day. We had even gone to the length of bringing +a stick wherewith to make a flag-staff on the top. +Still one, and that a very familiar source of disquietude, +harassed us as our eyes turned anxiously +to the west. A single huge band of cloud hung heavily +right across the sky, and looked like a harbinger of +evil, for it was of a livid colour above, and tinged +with a deep crimson red below. My companion was +despondent at the prospect it suggested, and the +guides tapped their teeth with their forefingers when +they looked in that direction; but it was suggested +by a more sanguine person that its form and very +watery look suggested a Band of Hope. An insinuating +smell of savoury soup was wafted up gently +from below— +</p> + <lg> +<l>Stealing and giving odour.</l> +</lg> + <p>We took courage; then descended to the tent, and took +sustenance. +</p> + +<p> +There was no difficulty experienced in making an +early start the next day, and the moment the grey +light allowed us to see our way we set off. On such +occasions, when the mind is strung up to a high pitch +of excitement, odd and trivial little details and incidents +fix themselves indelibly on the memory. I +can recall as distinctly now, as if it had only happened +a moment ago, the exact tone of voice in which +Burgener, on looking out of the tent, announced that +<pb n='207'/><anchor id='Pg207'/>the weather would do. Burgener and Kaspar Maurer +were now our guides, for our old enemy with the +family ties had been paid off and sent away with a +flea in his ear—an almost unnecessary adjunct, as +anyone who had slept in the same tent with him +could testify. Notwithstanding that Maurer was far +from well, and rather weak, we mounted rapidly at +first, for the way was by this time familiar enough, +and we all meant business. +</p> + +<note place="margin">The rocks of the Dru</note> + +<p> +Our position now was this. By our exploration on +the last occasion we had ascertained that it was possible +to ascend to a great height on the main mass of the +mountain. From the slope of the rocks, and from the +shape of the mountain, we felt sure that the final crest +would be easy enough. We had then to find a way still +up the face, from the point where we had turned back on +our last attempt, to some point on the final ridge of +the mountain. The rocks on this part we had never +been able to examine very closely, for it is necessary +to cross well over to the south-eastern face while +ascending from the ridge between the Aiguille du Dru +and the Aiguille Verte. A great projecting buttress of +rock, some two or three hundred feet in height, cuts off +the view of that part of the mountain over which we +now hoped to make our way. By turning up straight +behind this buttress, we hoped to hit off and reach +the final crest just above the point where it merges +into the precipitous north-eastern wall visible from +<pb n='208'/><anchor id='Pg208'/>the Chapeau. This part of the mountain can only be +seen from the very head of the Glacier de la Charpoua +just under the mass of the Aiguille Verte. But this +point of view is too far off for accurate observations, +and the strip of mountain was practically, therefore, +a <hi rend='italic'>terra incognita</hi> to us. +</p> + +<note place="margin">What next?</note> + +<p> +We followed the gully running up from the head +of the glacier towards the ridge above mentioned, +keeping well to the left. Before long it was necessary +to cross the gully on to the main peak. To make the +topography clearer a somewhat prosaic and domestic +simile may be employed. The Aiguille du Dru and the +Aiguille Verte are connected by a long sharp ridge, towards +which we were now climbing; and this ridge is let +in as it were into the south-eastern side of the Aiguille +du Dru, much as a comb may be stuck into the middle +of a hairbrush, the latter article representing the main +peak. Here we employed the ladder which had been +placed in the right position the day previously. Right +glad were we to see the rickety old structure which +had now spent four years on the mountain, and was +much the worse for it. It creaked and groaned dismally +under our weight and ran sharp splinters into +us at all points of contact, but yet there was a certain +companionship about the old ladder, and we seemed +almost to regret that it was not destined to share +more in our prospective success. A few steps on and +we came to a rough cleft some five-and-twenty feet +<pb n='209'/><anchor id='Pg209'/>in depth, which had to be descended. A double rope +was fastened to a projecting crag, and we swung ourselves +down as if we were barrels of split peas going +into a ship’s hold; then to the ascent again, and the +excitement waxed stronger as we drew nearer to the +doubtful part of the mountain. Still, we did not +anticipate insuperable obstacles; for I think we were +possessed with a determination to succeed, which is a +sensation often spoken of as a presentiment of success. +A short climb up an easy broken gully, and of a +sudden we seemed to be brought to a standstill. A +little ledge at our feet curled round a projecting crag +on the left. <q>What are we to do now?</q> said Burgener, +but with a smile on his face that left no doubt +as to the answer. He lay flat down on the ledge and +wriggled round the projection, disappearing suddenly +from view as if the rock had swallowed him up. A +shout proclaimed that his expectations had not been +deceived, and we were bidden to follow; and follow we +did, sticking to the flat face of the rock with all our +power, and progressing like the skates down the glass +sides of an aquarium tank. When the last man +joined us we found ourselves all huddled together on +a very little ledge indeed, while an overhanging rock +above compelled us to assume the anomalous attitude +enforced on the occupant of a little-ease dungeon. +What next? An eager look up solved part of the +doubt. <q>There is the way,</q> said Burgener, leaning +<pb n='210'/><anchor id='Pg210'/>back to get a view. <q>Oh, indeed,</q> we answered. No +doubt there was a way, and we were glad to hear that +it was possible to get up it. The attractions of the +route consisted of a narrow flat gully plastered up +with ice, exceeding straight and steep and crowned at +the top with a pendulous mass of enormous icicles. +The gully resembled a half-open book standing up +on end. Enthusiasts in rock-climbing who have +ascended the Riffelhorn from the Görner Glacier side +will have met with a similar gully, but, as a rule, free +from ice, which, in the present instance, constituted +the chief difficulty. The ice, filling up the receding +angle from top to bottom, rendered it impossible to +find hand-hold on the rocks, and it was exceedingly +difficult to cut steps in such a place, for the slabs of +ice were prone to break away entire. However, the +guides said they could get up, and asked us to keep +out of the way of chance fragments of ice which might +fall down as they ascended. So we tucked ourselves +away on one side, and they fell to as difficult a business +as could well be imagined. The rope was +discarded, and slowly they worked up, their backs and +elbows against one sloping wall, their feet against the +other. But the angle was too wide to give security to +this position, the more especially that with shortened +axes they were compelled to hack out enough of the ice +to reveal the rock below. In such places the ice is but +loosely adherent, being raised up from the face much +<pb n='211'/><anchor id='Pg211'/>as pie-crust dissociates itself from the fruit beneath +under the influence of the oven. Strike lightly with +the axe, and a hollow sound is yielded without much +impression on the ice; strike hard, and the whole mass +breaks away. But the latter method is the right one to +adopt, though it necessitates very hard work. No steps +are really reliable when cut in ice of this description. +</p> + +<note place="margin">A narrow escape</note> + +<p> +The masses of ice, coming down harder and harder +as they ascended without intermission, showed how +they were working, and the only consolation that we +had during a time that we felt to be critical, was that +the guides were not likely to expend so much labour +unless they thought that some good result would come +of it. Suddenly there came a sharp shout and cry; then +a crash as a great slab of ice, falling from above, was +dashed into pieces at our feet and leaped into the air; +then a brief pause, and we knew not what would +happen next. Either the gully had been ascended +or the guides had been pounded, and failure here +might be failure altogether. It is true that Hartley +and I had urged the guides to find a way some little +distance to the right of the line on which they were +now working; but they had reported that, though +easy below, the route we had pointed out was impossible +above.<note place="foot">It has transpired since that our judgment happened to be right +in this matter, and we might probably have saved an hour or more +at this part of the ascent.</note> A faint scratching noise close above +<pb n='212'/><anchor id='Pg212'/>us, as of a mouse perambulating behind a wainscot. +We look up. It is the end of a rope. We seize it, and +our pull from below is answered by a triumphant yell +from above as the line is drawn taut. Fastening the +end around my waist, I started forth. The gully +was a scene of ruin, and I could hardly have believed +that two axes in so short a time could have dealt so +much destruction. Nowhere were the guides visible, +and in another moment there was a curious sense of +solitariness as I battled with the obstacles, aided in +no small degree by the rope. The top of the gully +was blocked up by a great cube of rock, dripping still +where the icicles had just been broken off. The +situation appeared to me to demand deliberation, +though it was not accorded. <q>Come on,</q> said voices +from above. <q>Up you go,</q> said a voice from below. +I leaned as far back as I could, and felt about for a +hand-hold. There was none. Everything seemed +smooth. Then right, then left; still none. So I +smiled feebly to myself, and called out, <q>Wait a minute.</q> +This was of course taken as an invitation to pull +vigorously, and, struggling and kicking like a spider +irritated by tobacco smoke, I topped the rock and +lent a hand on the rope for Hartley to follow. Then +we learnt that a great mass of ice had broken away +under Maurer’s feet while they were in the gully, +and that he must have fallen had not Burgener +pinned him to the rock with one hand. From the +<pb n='213'/><anchor id='Pg213'/>number of times that this escape was described to us +during that day and the next, I am inclined to think +that it was rather a near thing. At the time, and +often since, I have questioned myself as to whether +we could have got up this passage without the rope +let down from above. I think either of us could +have done it in time with a companion. It was +necessary for two to be in the gully at the same +time, to assist each other. It was necessary also to +discard the rope, which in such a place could only be +a source of danger. But no amateur should have +tried the passage on that occasion without confidence +in his own powers, and without absolute knowledge of +the limit of his own powers. If the gully had been +free from ice it would have been much easier. +</p> + +<note place="margin">The final scramble</note> + +<p> +<q>The worst is over now,</q> said Burgener. I was +glad to hear it, but, looking upwards, had my doubts. +The higher we went the bigger the rocks seemed to be. +Still there was a way, and it was not so very unlike +what I had, times out of mind, pictured to myself in +imagination. Another tough scramble and we stood +on a comparatively extensive ledge. With elation we +observed that we had now climbed more than half of +the only part of the mountain of the nature of which +we were uncertain. A few steps on and Burgener +grasped me suddenly by the arm. <q>Do you see the +great red rock up yonder?</q> he whispered, hoarse with +excitement—<q>in ten minutes we shall be there and on +<pb n='214'/><anchor id='Pg214'/>the arête, and then——</q> Nothing could stop us now; +but a feverish anxiety to see what lay beyond, to look +on the final slope which we knew must be easy, impelled +us on, and we worked harder than ever to +overcome the last few obstacles. The ten minutes +expanded into something like thirty before we really +reached the rock. Of a sudden the mountain seemed +to change its form. For hours we had been climbing +the hard, dry rocks. Now these appeared suddenly to +vanish from under our feet, and once again our eyes +fell on snow which lay thick, half hiding, half revealing, +the final slope of the ridge. A glance along it +showed that we had not misjudged. Even the cautious +Maurer admitted that, as far as we could see, all +appeared promising. And now, with the prize almost +within our grasp, a strange desire to halt and hang +back came on. Burgener tapped the rock with his +axe, and we seemed somehow to regret that the way in +front of us must prove comparatively easy. Our foe +had almost yielded, and it appeared something like +cruelty to administer the final <hi rend='italic'>coup de grâce</hi>. We +could already anticipate the half-sad feeling with +which we should reach the top itself. It needed but +little to make the feeling give way. Some one cried +<q>Forwards,</q> and instantly we were all in our places +again, and the leader’s axe crashed through the +layers of snow into the hard blue ice beneath. A +dozen steps, and then a short bit of rock scramble; +<pb n='215'/><anchor id='Pg215'/>then more steps along the south side of the ridge, +followed by more rock, and the ridge beyond, which +had been hidden for a minute or two, stretched out +before us again as we topped the first eminence. +Better and better it looked as we went on. <q>See +there,</q> cried Burgener suddenly, <q>the actual top!</q> +</p> + +<note place="margin">Our foe is vanquished</note> + +<p> +There was no possibility of mistaking the two huge +stones we had so often looked at from below. They +seemed, in the excitement of the moment, misty and +blurred for a brief space, but grew clear again as I +passed my hand over my eyes and seemed to swallow +something. A few feet below the pinnacles and on +the left was one of those strange arches formed by a +great transverse boulder, so common near the summits +of these aiguilles, and through the hole we could see +blue sky. Nothing could lay beyond, and, still better, +nothing could be above. On again, while we could +scarcely stand still in the great steps the leader set +his teeth to hack out. Then there came a short +troublesome bit of snow scramble, where the heaped-up +cornice had fallen back from the final rock. There +we paused for a moment, for the summit was but a +few feet from us, and Hartley, who was ahead, +courteously allowed me to unrope and go on first. In +a few seconds I clutched at the last broken rocks, and +hauled myself up on to the sloping summit. There +for a moment I stood alone gazing down on Chamouni. +The holiday dream of five years was accomplished; +<pb n='216'/><anchor id='Pg216'/>the Aiguille du Dru was climbed. Where in the wide +world will you find a sport able to yield pleasure like +this? +</p> + +<p> +Mountaineers are often asked, <q>What did you do +when you got to the top?</q> With regard to this peak +the same question has often been put to me, and I +have often answered it, but, it must be confessed, +always suppressing one or two facts. I do not know +why I should conceal them now any longer, the more +especially as I think there is a moral to be drawn +from my experience, or I would still keep it locked up. +I had tried so hard and so long to get up this little +peak, that some reaction of mind was not improbable; +but it took a turn which I had never before and +have never since experienced in the slightest degree. +For a second or two—it cannot have been longer—all +the past seemed blotted out, all consciousness +of self, all desire of life was lost, and I was +seized with an impulse almost incontrollable to +throw myself down the vertical precipice which lay +immediately at my feet. I know not now, though +the feeling is still and always will be intensely vivid, +how it was resisted, but at the sound of the voices +below the faculties seemed to return each to its +proper place, and with the restoration of the <anchor id="corr216"/><corr sic="menta">mental</corr> +balance the momentary idea of violently overturning +the physical balance vanished. What has happened +to one may have happened to others. It appeared +<pb n='217'/><anchor id='Pg217'/>to me quite different from what is known as mountain +vertigo. In fact, I never moved at all from +where I stood, and awoke, as it were, to find myself +looking calmly down the identical place. It may be +that the mental equilibrium under similar circumstances +has not always been so fortunately restored, +and that thus calamities on the mountains may have +taken place. In another minute the rest of the party +ascended, and we were all reposing on the hard-won +summit. +</p> + +<note place="margin">On the summit</note> + +<p> +Far below a little white speck representing Couttet’s +Hotel was well in view, and towards this we +directed our telescope. We could make out a few +individuals wandering listlessly about, but there did +not seem to be much excitement; in front of the +Imperial Hotel, however, we were pleased to imagine +that we saw somebody gazing in our direction. +Accordingly, with much pomp and ceremony, the +stick—which it may be stated was borrowed without +leave—was fixed into a little cleft and tightly wedged +in; then, to my horror, Burgener, with many chuckles +at his own foresight and at the completeness of his +equipment, produced from a concealed pocket a piece +of scarlet flannel strongly suggestive of a baby’s under +garment, and tied it on to the stick. I protested in +vain; in a moment the objectionable rag was floating +proudly in the breeze. However, it seemed to want +airing. Determined that our ascent should be placed +<pb n='218'/><anchor id='Pg218'/>beyond doubt in the eyes of any subsequent visitors, +we ransacked our stores, and were enabled to leave the +following articles:—One half-pint bottle containing our +names, preserved by a paper stopper from the inclemency +of the weather; two wooden wedges of +unknown use, two ends of string, three burnt fusees, +divers chips, one stone man of dwarf proportions, the +tenpenny stick, and the infant’s petticoat. +</p> + +<p> +There is a popular belief that the main object of +climbing up a mountain is to get a view from the top. +It may therefore be a matter of regret to some, but it +will certainly be a matter of great congratulation to +many others, that of the view obtained I can say but +little. Chamouni looked very nice, however, from this +distance. Turning towards the Aiguille Verte we were +astonished to notice that this great mass appeared to +tower far less above us than might have been expected +from its much greater height and close proximity. On +the other hand, the lower south-eastern peak of the +Aiguille du Dru seemed much more below us than we +had imagined would be the case. It is a moot point +in mountaineering circles how much difference between +two closely contiguous points is necessary in order +that they may be rated as individual peaks. At the +time we estimated the difference between the two +peaks of our Aiguille to be about 80 feet, but Hartley, +who has since climbed the lower point, estimates that +the difference between the two must be at the very +<pb n='219'/><anchor id='Pg219'/>least 120 feet. Still, the comparative meagreness of +the panorama did not affect our spirits, nor detract +in any appreciable degree from the completeness of +the expedition. The Aiguille du Dru is essentially an +expedition only for those who love a good climb for +climbing’s sake. Every step, every bit of scrambling, +was—and is still—a pleasure. +</p> + +<note place="margin">The return journey</note> + +<p> +We had reached the top at half-past twelve, so +that our estimate of the time required had been a +very accurate one. After spending three-quarters of +an hour on the summit we turned to the descent with +regret, and possessed with much the same feeling as a +schoolboy on Black Monday, who takes an affectionate +farewell of all sorts of inanimate objects. Very difficult +the descent proved to be. We were so anxious, +now that our efforts had been finally crowned with +success, that the whole expedition should pass off +without the least misadventure, that we went much +more slowly, and took more elaborate precautions than +under ordinary circumstances would have been deemed +necessary. From the start we had agreed that, whatever +the hour, nothing should persuade us to hurry +the least in the descent. On such mountains, however, +as the Aiguille du Dru it is easier on the whole +to get down than to get up, especially if a good supply +of spare rope be included in the equipment. At three +places we found it advisable to fix ropes in order to +assist our progress. It was curious to observe how +<pb n='220'/><anchor id='Pg220'/>marvellously the aspect of the mountain was changed +as we looked down the places up which we had +climbed so recently; and there were so many deviations +from the straight line, that the way was very +difficult to find at all. Indeed, Burgener alone could +hit it off with certainty, and, though last on the rope, +directed the way without ever making the slightest +mistake at any part. We followed precisely the same +route as in ascending, and noticed few if any places +where this route was capable of improvement, or even +of alteration. +</p> + +<p> +Not till nearly five o’clock did we regain our abandoned +store of provisions; the sight of the little white +packets, and especially of a certain can of tinned +meat, seen at a considerable distance below, incited +us to great exertions, for since ten in the morning we +had partaken of nothing but a sandwich crushed +out of all recognisable shape. Ignoring the probability +of being benighted on the rocks, we caroused +merrily on seltzer water and the contents of the tin +can. It seemed almost a pity to quit for good these +familiar rocks on which we had spent such a glorious +time, and the sun was sinking low behind the Brévent +range, and the rocks were all darkened in the grey +shadows, before the guides could persuade us to pack +up and resume our journey. Very little time was +lost in descending when we had once started, but +before we had reached a certain little sloping ledge +<pb n='221'/><anchor id='Pg221'/>furnished with a collection of little pointed stones, and +known as the breakfast place, the darkness had overtaken +us. The glacier lay only a few feet below, when +the mist which had been long threatening swept up +and closed in around us. The crevasses at the head +of the glacier were so complicated, and the snow +bridges so fragile, that we thought it wiser not to go +on at once, but to wait till the snow should have had +time to harden. So we sat down under an overhanging +rock, and made believe that we enjoyed the fun. +Hartley wedged a stone under his waist, as if he were +the hind wheel of a waggon going uphill, and imitated +the inaction and attitude of a person going to sleep. +The guides retired to a little distance and, as is their +wont when inactive, fell to a warm discussion over the +dimensions of the different chamois they had shot, +each of course outvying the other in turn. The game +has this merit at least, when there is plenty of spare time +at disposal, that if the players only begin low enough +down in the animal scale it is practically unlimited. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Benighted</note> + +<p> +Before long the situation ceased to be amusing, +as we found that we had managed to get wet through +in the gully, and that the slowly falling temperature +was exceedingly unpleasant. I converted a cowhide +knapsack into a temporary foot-warmer, much to the +detriment of such articles of food as were still stored +in its recesses, and tucked a boot under each arm +to keep the leather from hardening. Then we fell +<pb n='222'/><anchor id='Pg222'/>to discussing what we would have next day for breakfast, +and for some two hours found a certain amount +of solace in disputing over the merits of divers dainty +dishes. Even this fertile subject failed at length to +give adequate satisfaction. The ledge became colder +and colder, and new spiky little points appeared +to develop every moment. The argument of the +sportsmen grew fainter, and we became slowly chilled +through. For a while the mind became more active, +but less logical, and fanciful visions crowded thickly +through it. On such occasions it is seldom possible +to fix the thoughts on events immediately past. To +my drowsy gaze the mist seemed to take the form of +our native fogs, while the condition of the ledge suggested +obtrusively a newly macadamised road. Almost +at will I could transport myself in imagination to the +metropolis I had so recently left, or back again to the +wild little ledge on which we were stranded. Following +up the train of sensations, it was easy to conceive +how reason might fail altogether, and how gradually, +as the senses became numbed one by one, delirium +might supervene from cold and exposure—as has often +happened to arctic travellers. The thoughts flew off +far afield, and pictured the exact contrast of the immediate +surroundings. I saw a brilliantly lighted street +with long rows of flaming lamps. The windows of the +clubhouses shone out as great red and orange squares +and oblongs. Carriages dashed by, cabs oscillated down +<pb n='223'/><anchor id='Pg223'/>the roads. Elegantly attired youths about to commence +their wakeful period (why are men who only +know the seamy side of life called <q>men of the world</q>? +Is it so bad a world, my masters?) were strolling off +to places of entertainment. A feeble, ragged creature +crept along in the shadows. A worn, bright-eyed girl, +just free from work which had begun at early dawn, +dragged her aching limbs homewards, but stopped a +moment to glance with envy at a mamma and two +fair daughters crossing the pavement to their carriage; +light, life, bustle, crowding everywhere. Faster and +faster follow the shifting scenes till the visions jostle +and become confused——A crack, a distant sound of +a falling shower of stones, a hiss as they fall on to the +snow slopes below. The eyes open, but the mind +only half awakes, and almost immediately dreams +again, with changed visions of comfortable rooms, in +which the flickering light of a coal fire now throws +up, now half conceals the close-drawn curtains, or the +familiar form of books and pictures; visions of some +formless individual with slippered feet disposed at +judicious distance from the blazing coals, of soft +carpets and deep arm-chairs moulded by long use into +the precise intaglio adapted to the human frame; +visions of a warm flood of subdued light, of things +steaming gently with curling wreaths of vapour. All +these passed in order before the mind, called up by +the incantation of discomfort out of the cauldron of +<pb n='224'/><anchor id='Pg224'/>misery, like unto the regal display manifested to that +impulsive and somewhat over-married individual, +Macbeth. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Shifting scenes</note> + +<p> +But before long it was most difficult to picture +these pleasant sights so vividly as to become altogether +oblivious of an exceedingly chilly personality, +and ultimately human nature triumphed, and the <hi rend='italic'>ego</hi> +in a rather frozen state became again paramount. +I had begun to calculate the number of hours we +might have to remain where we were, and the probable +state in which we should be next morning, when +of a sudden the mist lifted, and disclosed the glacier +just below feebly lit up by the rising moon. We +sprang instantly to our feet, almost as instantaneously +returning to our former positions by reason +of the exceeding stiffness and cramp begotten of the +cold. The guides, leaving their discussion at a +point where the last speaker had, in imagination, +shot a chamois about the size of an elephant, +descended to inspect the ice. The snow bridges were +pronounced secure, and we were soon across the crevasses, +but found to our disgust that we had rather +overdone the waiting. The slope was hard frozen, +and in the dim light it was found necessary to cut +steps nearly the whole way down the glacier. For +five hours and a half were we thus engaged, and did +not reach our camp till 2.30 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> Never did the tent +look so comfortable as on that morning. If, as was +<pb n='225'/><anchor id='Pg225'/>remarked of Mrs. Gamp’s apartment in Kingsgate +Street, High Holborn, to the contented mind a +cottage is a palace, so to the weary frame may a tent +be a luxurious hotel. We rushed over the loose rocks +by the snout of the glacier, and ran helter-skelter for +our bivouac. From the circumstance that the invariable +struggle for the best pillow was usually brief, and +that one of the party was discovered next morning +wrong end foremost in his sleeping bag with his boots +still on his feet, I am disposed to think that we were +not long in dropping off to sleep; but the unstudied +attitudes of the party suggested rather four revellers +returning from a Greenwich dinner in a four-wheeled +cab over a cobbled road than a company of sober +mountaineers. By seven o’clock, however, the predominant +thought of breakfast so asserted itself that +we woke up and looked out. +</p> + +<note place="margin">The camp breaks up</note> + +<p> +The first object that met our gaze was a large +sheet of paper, affixed to the rock just in front of +the tent, and bearing the simple inscription <q>Hooray!</q> +This led us to surmise that our success was already +known below; for the author of the legend had +returned to Chamouni the previous evening, after +having seen us on the summit. To each man was +apportioned the burden he should bear of the camp +equipage. Such a collection of pots and pans and other +paraphernalia had we amassed gradually during our +stay, that our appearance as we crossed the glacier +<pb n='226'/><anchor id='Pg226'/>suggested rather that of certain inhabitants of Lagado +mentioned in Gulliver’s voyage to Laputa. By nine +o’clock we had deposited our burdens at the Montanvert +and, disregarding the principles of the sages +above referred to, ventured to corrode our lungs by +articulating our wants to the landlord. This worthy +received us with more than his usual affability, for the +tidings of our success had in truth already reached +the inn. A bottle of conical form was produced, the +cork drawn with a monstrous explosion, and some +very indifferent fluid poured out as a token of congratulation. +In spite of, perhaps in consequence of, +these early libations, we skipped down the well-worn +and somewhat unsavoury path with great nimbleness, +and in an hour or so found ourselves on the level path +leading along the valley to Chamouni by the English +church. There, I am pleased to record, the first man +to congratulate us was our old friend M. Gabriel +Loppé, without whose kindly sympathy and constant +encouragement I doubt if we should have ever persevered +to our successful end. It mattered little to +us that but few of the Chamouni guides gave us credit +for having really ascended the peak, for most of them +maintained that we had merely reached a point on the +south-east face of the lower summit; indeed, to those +not so familiar with the details of the mountain as +we were, it might well seem hard to realise that the +crag jutting out on the right, as seen from Chamouni, +is really the actual summit. +</p> + +<pb n='227'/><anchor id='Pg227'/> + +<p> +Such is the record of the most fascinating rock +climb with which I am acquainted. From beginning +to end it is interesting. There is no wearisome +tramping over loose moraine and no great extent of +snow-field to traverse. The rocks are wondrously firm +and big, and peculiarly unlike those on other mountains, +even on many of the aiguilles about Chamouni. +</p> +<note place="margin">Mountaineering morality</note> +<p> +An odd code of mountaineering morality has gradually +sprung into existence, and ideas as to what is +fair and sportsmanlike in mountain climbing are somewhat +peculiar. People speak somewhat vaguely of +<q>artificial aid,</q> and are wont to criticise in very severe +language the employment of such assistance, at the +same time finding it rather hard, if driven into a corner, +to define what they mean by the term. It would seem +that artificial aid may signify the driving of iron pegs +into rocks when nature has provided insufficient hand +or foot-hold. Such a proceeding is considered highly +improper. To cut a step in ice is right, but to chisel +out a step on rock is in the highest degree unjustifiable. +Again, a ladder may be used without critical animadversion +to bridge a crevasse, but its employment over +a rock cleft is tabooed. A certain amount of mountaineering +equipment is not only considered proper, +but those who go on the mountains without it are +spoken of with great asperity, and called very hard +names; but the equipment must not include anything +beyond hobnails, rope, axes, and possibly a ladder for +<pb n='228'/><anchor id='Pg228'/>a crevasse; any other contrivance is sniffed at contemptuously +as artificial aid. Rockets and such like +are usually only mentioned in order to be condemned; +while grapnels, chains, and crampons are held to be +the inventions of the fiend. Why these unwritten +laws should exist in such an imaginary code it is hard +to see. Perhaps we must not consider too curiously +on the matter. For my own part, if it could be +proved that by no possible means could a given bad +passage be traversed without some such aid, nor turned +by another route, I should not hesitate to adopt any +mechanical means to the desired end. As a matter +of fact, in the Alps scarcely any such places exist for +those who have taken the trouble to learn how to +climb, and there are none on the Aiguille du Dru. +We used our ladder often enough in exploring the +mountain, but when we actually ascended it we employed +it in one place only, saving thereby at least +an hour of invaluable time. Indeed, subsequent explorers +have found such to be the case; and Mr. W. +E. Davidson, in a recent ascent of the mountain, was +able to find his way without invoking the assistance +of either ladder or fixed ropes. In a marvellously +short space of time, too, did he get up and down the +peak on which we had spent hours without number. +Still, this is the fate of all mountains. The mountaineers +who make the third ascent are, usually, able +to sweep away the blushing honours that the first +<pb n='229'/><anchor id='Pg229'/>climbers might fondly hope they had invested the +mountain with. A word, a stroke of the pen, will do +it. The peaks do not yield gradually from their high +estate, but fall, like Lucifer, from summit to ultimate +destination, and are suddenly converted from <q>the most +difficult mountain in the Alps</q> to <q>Oh yes; a fine +peak, but not a patch upon Mount So-and-so.</q> It is +but with the mountains as with other matters of this +life, save in this respect, that once deposed they never +can hope to reign again supreme. Statements concerning +our fellow-creatures when of a depreciatory, +and still more when of a scandal-flavoured, nature, are +always believed by nine people out of ten to be, if not +absolutely true, at any rate well-founded enough for +repetition. A different estimate of the standard of +veracity to be met with in this world is assumed when +the remarks are favourable. Even so may it be, in +some instances, with the mountains. The prestige +that clings to a maiden peak is like the bark on a +wand: peel it off, and it cannot be replaced; the +bough withers, and is cast to one side, its character +permanently altered. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Chamouni becomes festive</note> + +<p> +We would fain have rested that evening, but the +edict went forth that festivities were to take place in +honour of the ascent, and, to tell the truth, that +evening was not the least fatiguing part of the whole +affair. The opportunity was too good to be lost, +especially as the customary mode of testifying +<pb n='230'/><anchor id='Pg230'/>congratulations by firing off divers podgy little cannons, +had been omitted. Preparations were made for a display +of fireworks on a large scale. Some six rockets of +moderately soaring ambition were placed in order on +the grass-plot in front of the hotel. A skilful pyrotechnist, +who knew the right end to which to apply +the match, was placed in charge, and fussed about +a great deal. A very little table covered with a white +cloth, and on which were displayed several bottles, +reminded the crowd of loafers who assembled expectant +as the darkness came on, that a carousal was +meditated. At last the word was given, and the +pyrotechnist, beaming with pride, advanced bearing +a lighted taper attached to the end of a stick of judicious +length. A hush of expectancy followed, and experienced +persons retired to sheltered corners. The +fireworks behaved as they usually do. They fizzed +prodigiously, and went off in the most unexpected +directions. One rocket, rather weak in the waist, +described, after a little preliminary spluttering, an +exceedingly sharp, corkscrew-like series of curves, and +then turned head-over-heels with astounding rapidity +on the lawn, like a rabbit shot through the head, and +there lay flat, spluttering out its gunpowdery vitals. +Another was perfectly unmoved at the initial application +of the kindling flame, but then suddenly began +to swell up in an alarming way, causing the pyrotechnist, +who had no previous experience of this +<pb n='231'/><anchor id='Pg231'/>phenomenon, to retreat somewhat hastily. However, +one of the rockets rose to a height of some five-and-twenty +feet, much to the operator’s satisfaction, and +we were all able to congratulate him warmly on his +contribution to our entertainment as we emerged from +our places of security. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Organising the ball</note> + +<p> +A series of smaller explosions, resulting from +the drawing of corks, was the next item in the +programme, and appeared to give more general +satisfaction. Then the bell rang, and the master of +the ceremonies announced that the ball was about to +commence. Some over-zealous person had unfortunately +sought to improve the condition of the floor for +dancing, by tracing an arabesque pattern on the +boards with water, using for the purpose a tin pot +with a convenient leak at the bottom. It followed +that the exercise of waltzing in thick boots was more +laborious than graceful. Without, the villagers +crowded at the windows to gaze upon our fantastic +gyrations. But little formality had been observed in +organising the ball; in fact, the ceremony of issuing +cards of invitation had been replaced by ringing a bell +and displaying a placard on which it was announced +that the dance would commence at nine o’clock. However, +the enjoyment appeared to be none the less keen, +for all that the dancers were breathing fairly pure air, +taking no champagne, and not fulfilling any social +duty. But for the costumes the gathering might +<pb n='232'/><anchor id='Pg232'/>have been mistaken for a fashionable entertainment. +All the recognised types to be met with in a London +ball-room were there. The conversation, judging from +the fragments overheard, did not appear to be below the +average standard of intellectuality. The ladies, who +came from the various hotels of Chamouni, displayed, as +most English girls do—<hi rend='italic'>pace</hi> the jealous criticism of certain +French writers, more smart than observant—their +curious faculty of improvising ball costume exactly +suitable to the occasion. There was a young man who +had a pair of white gloves, and was looked upon +with awe in consequence, and who, in the intervals of +the dances, slid about in an elegant manner instead +of walking. There was a middle-aged person of +energetic temperament who skipped and hopped like +the little hills, and kept everything going—including +the refreshments. There was a captious and cynical +person, who frowned horribly, and sat in a corner +in the verandah with an altogether superior air, and +who, in support of the character, smoked a cigar of uncertain +botanical pedigree provided by the hotel, which +disagreed with him and increased his splenetic mood. +Elsewhere, at more fashionable gatherings, he would +have leaned against doorposts, cultivated a dejected +demeanour, and got very much in other people’s way. +There was a pianist who was a very clever artist, and +found out at once the notes that yielded no response +on the instrument, and who, like his more fashionable +<pb n='233'/><anchor id='Pg233'/>analogue, regularly required stimulants after playing +a waltz. It mattered little what he played—polka, +waltz, galop, or mazurka—whatever the tune, the +couples all rotated more or less slowly about; so it +was evidently an English gathering. At such impromptu +dances there is always a strong desire to +show off musical talent. No sooner did the hireling +pianist desist than a little cluster gathered around the +instrument, assured him that he must be tired, and +volunteered to play. Finally he was induced to rest, +and a young lady who knew <q>Rousseau’s Dream,</q> +or some tune very like it, triumphantly seated herself +and favoured the company with that air in waltz time, +whereat the unsuccessful candidates for the seat smiled +scornfully at each other, and rolled up their eyes, and +would not dance. So they, in turn, triumphed, and the +young lady blushed, and said she had never seen such +a stupid set of people, and went away and sat by her +parents, and thought the world was indeed hollow. +The hireling came back, and all went on merrily again. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Chamouni dances</note> + +<p> +In the yard outside the crowd increased. In the +midst of the throng could be seen Maurer, resplendent +in a shirt the front of which was like unto a petrified +bath-towel, wearing a coat many sizes too large, his face +beaming with smiles and shining from the effects +of drinks offered in the spirit of good fellowship on +all sides. Close by stood Burgener, displaying +similar physiognomical phenomena, his natural free +<pb n='234'/><anchor id='Pg234'/>movements hampered by the excessive tightness of some +garments with which an admirer of smaller girth had +presented him. Let us do justice to the guides of +Chamouni, who might not unnaturally have found +some cause for disappointment that the peak had +been captured by strangers in the land. On this +occasion, at any rate, they offered the hand of good +fellowship, and listened with admiring attention while +our guides, in an unknown tongue, expatiated on the +difficulties and dangers they had successfully overcome—difficulties +which did not appear to become +less by frequent repetition. Let us leave them there. +They did their work thoroughly well, and might be +pardoned, under all the circumstances, for a little +swagger. +</p> +<note place="margin">The scene closes in</note> +<p> +The days grow shorter apace. The sun has barely +time to make the ice peaks glisten, ere the cold +shadows creep over again. Snow lies thick on ledge +and cranny, and only the steepest mountain faces +show dark through the powdery veil. Bleak night +winds whistle around the beetling crags and whirl +and chevy the wreathing snow-clouds, making weird +music in these desolate fastnesses, while the glaciers +and snow-fields collect fresh strength against the +time when their relentless destroyer shall attack them +once again at an advantage. The scene is changed. +The clear air, the delicate purity of the Alpine tints +are but recollections, and have given way to fog, mist, +<pb n='235'/><anchor id='Pg235'/>slush, and smoke-laden atmosphere. Would you +recall these mountain pictures? Draw close the +curtains, stir the coals into an indignant crackling +blaze, and fashion, in the rising smoke, the mountain +vista. How easy it is to unlock the storehouse of the +mind where these images are stowed away! how these +scenes crowd back into the mind! What keener +charm than to pass in review the memories of these +simple, wholesome pleasures; to see again, as clear as +in the reality, every ledge, every hand and foot-hold; +to feel the fingers tingle and the muscles instinctively +contract at the recollection of some tough scramble +on rock or glacier? The pleasures of the Alps endure +long after the actual experience, and are but invested; +whether the interest can be derived by any one but +the actual investor is a matter for others to decide. +For my own part, I can only wish that any one could +possibly derive a hundredth part of the pleasure in +reading, that I have had in writing, of our adventures. +</p> + +</div><div type="chapter" n="7" rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb n='236'/><anchor id='Pg236'/> +<index index="toc" level1="VII. Bye-days in Alpine midlands"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="VII. Bye-days in Alpine midlands"/> +<head>CHAPTER VII.</head> + +<head type="sub">BYE-DAYS IN ALPINE MIDLANDS</head> + +<argument><p rend="center"> +1. <hi rend='italic'>A Pardonable Digression.</hi> +</p> + +<p> +On well-ordered intellects—The drawbacks of accurate memory—Sub-Alpine +walks: their admirers and their recommendations—The +<q>High Level Route</q>—The Ruinette—An infallible prescription +for ill-humour—A climb and a meditation on grass slopes—The +agile person’s acrobatic feats—The psychological effects of +sunrise—The ascent of the Ruinette—We return to our mutton +at Arolla—A vision on the hill-side. +</p> + +<p rend="center"> +2. <hi rend='italic'>A Little Maiden.</hi> +</p> + +<p> +Saas in the olden days—A neglected valley—The mountains drained +dry—A curious omission—The Portienhorn, and its good points +as a mountain—The chef produces a masterpiece—An undesirable +tenement to be let unfurnished—An evicted family—A +rapid act of mountaineering—On the pleasures of little climbs—The +various methods of making new expeditions on one mountain—On +the mountaineer who has nothing to learn, and his consequent +ignorance. +</p></argument> + +<div> + <index index="toc" level1="1. A pardonable digression"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="1. A pardonable digression"/> + <head>1. <hi rend='italic'>A Pardonable Digression.</hi></head> + +<p> +There are some, and they are considered, on the +whole, fortunate by less highly gifted individuals, +who possess minds as accurately divided up into +receptacles for the storage of valuable material as a +honeycomb. Every scrap of information acquired +by the owner of such a well-ordered intellect is duly +<pb n='237'/><anchor id='Pg237'/>sifted, purged, ticketed, and finally pigeon-holed in +its proper cell, whence it could undoubtedly be drawn +out at any future time for reference, were it not for +the fact that the pigeon-holes are all so very much +alike that the geometrically minded man commonly +forgets the number of the shelf to which he has +relegated his item of knowledge. He need not really +regret that this should be the case; persons with this +exceedingly well-ordered form of mind are apt to be +a little too precise for ordinary folk, and may even by +the captious be rated as dull creatures. A love for +the beautiful is not usually associated with excessively +tidy habits of mind. An artist’s studio in apple-pie +order would seem as unnatural as a legal document +drawn up on æsthetic principles. If the truth be told, +the picturesque is always associated with—not to +mince matters—the dirty; and the city of Hygeia, +however commendably free from the latter quality, +would be but a dreary and unattractive town. Nor +would it, as seems to be sometimes supposed, be quite +a paradise to that terrible and minatory person, the +sanitarian. On the contrary, he would probably be +found dining with the undertaker—off approved +viands—and the pair would be bewailing the hard +times. +</p> + +<note place="margin">On well-ordered intellects</note> + +<p> +I knew a man once who was marvellously proud +of a certain little cabinet, devoted to the reception of +keys, all of which were arranged in a remarkably +<pb n='238'/><anchor id='Pg238'/>orderly manner. He was fond of demonstrating the +system, which seemed, in truth, highly business-like; +but I lost faith one day in his method, on finding +that he did not know the locks which the several +keys were constructed respectively to open. It is +with the mind’s eye as with the bodily eye. We +are able only to focus sharply one thing at a time, +and the beauty of a given view, from the physiological +standpoint, consists in the softened indistinctness of +all objects out of the range of absolute focus—a fact +of which the early Florentine artists evinced a curious +disregard, and which their modern imitators, who, at +least in our scientific age, ought to know something +of the elementary laws of optics, render themselves +somewhat ridiculous by servilely copying. So is it +also with the memory. A certain indistinctness of +detail often renders the recollection even more pleasing; +we may be able only to reproduce from the +pigeon-hole, as it were, a rather indistinct, blotted-in +impression, but as the artist would be fully justified +in working up such a study into a finished picture, so +may the writer be allowed also to elaborate from his +mental sketch a complete work. Now, in wandering +in those numerous districts in the mountains of Switzerland +which cannot properly be classed as sub-Alpine, +and yet are not lofty enough to warrant their +explorer in dignifying his rambles by the term +<q>climbing,</q> one great charm consists in the fact that, +<pb n='239'/><anchor id='Pg239'/>while everything is pleasing, there is no distinct +objective point that we are bidden to admire. The +critical tendency is a very constant factor in human +character, and the chief business the professional +critic has to learn consists in finding out how far he +may legitimately go, and how he may best say what +he is called upon to express. Now even the least +critical of our race, the gushing section of humanity, +feel irresistibly disposed to cavil at anything they are +told they must admire. Perhaps, though, it is not +the critical attributes which come out on such occasions +in them. Possibly it is but an example of that still more +uniformly found characteristic of man and woman, +a quality which, in the process of the descent of our +species, has been handed down without the least alteration +from such lower animals as the mule for instance, +and for which, oddly enough, we have no proper term +in our language this side of the water, but know it as +<q>cussedness.</q> +</p> + +<note place="margin">The critical tendency</note> + +<p> +Most travellers hear with a slight feeling of relief, +on arriving at their destination and inquiring what +there is to be seen, that there is nothing in particular, +and the sub-Alpine walker has this charm perpetually +with him. His expedition cannot fail, for it does not +aim at any particular object on the attainment of which +it depends whether he considers himself successful or +not. These sub-Alpine walks and rambles form the background, +the setting, the frame, and the surrounding +<pb n='240'/><anchor id='Pg240'/>of the more sharply defined and more memorable +high expeditions. Perhaps these are but the sentiments +of advancing mountaineering age; certainly +they may be heard most often from those who +have reached that period of life when they no longer +pay heed to wrinkles in their trousers, when they are +somewhat exacting in the matter of club dinners, and +when they object strongly to receiving assistance from +younger folk in putting on their overcoats. Howbeit, +as we may recall the statement made in the +<q>Delectus,</q>— +</p> + <lg> +<l rend='margin-left: 10'>Neque semper arcum</l> +<l>Tendit Apollo,</l> +</lg> + <p>even so does the mountaineer occasionally relax his +muscles, and find pleasure in the Alpine midlands. +Moreover, the writer feels that the perpetual breathing +of rarefied air may be apt to induce too great a strain +on his readers, and recollects that a piano always +tuned to concert pitch is not so harmonious an instrument +as one occasionally unstrung; so some relief +is at times necessary. Contrast, inasmuch as nature +provides it on every hand, we may be sure is a thing +for which man has an instinctive craving; and to my +mind, at least, a picture in which rich colouring is +introduced, and where the result of the blending is +harmonious, is more satisfactory than the work which +appeals by what I believe artists would call <q>tone.</q> +The principle applies rather widely. We may have +<pb n='241'/><anchor id='Pg241'/>observed that young ladies of prepossessing appearance +love to be accompanied by dogs of repulsive +mien. The costermonger, again, if possessed, as he +always is, of a hoarse voice, is not completely equipped +unless provided with a boy companion capable of +sending forth in alternate measure the shrillest cries +which the human larynx is capable of emitting. +Thus may the pair better vaunt their wares, compel +attention, and attract notice. The same objects, at +any rate the latter two, influence an author, and not +only in all cases, it would seem, when he is actually +engaged in writing. So our expeditions, now to be +described, may be looked upon as material for contrast, +and may be skipped if thought fit—at any rate +by purchasers—without risk of wounding the writer’s +feelings. +</p> + +<note place="margin">The <q>High Level Route</q></note> + +<p> +Some years ago we were travelling over that district +of the Alps which to the true lover of mountain +scenery can never become hackneyed—that is, the +stretch of glacier land between Chamouni and Zermatt, +first made known by Messrs. Foster, Jacomb, +Winkfield, and others, and known to mountaineers as +the <q>high-level route.</q> We had reached Monvoisin, then, +possibly still, one of the cosiest and most comfortable +little inns to be found among the mountains. An +immense variety of first-rate glacier passes of moderate +difficulty lie between this Val de Bagne and the Arolla +valley; the Col de la Serpentine, the Col Gétroz, the +<pb n='242'/><anchor id='Pg242'/>Col de Breney, the Col Chermontane, and others, all +of high interest and varied scenery, tempt the walker +according to his powers. We selected on this occasion +the Col du Mont Rouge, having a design on the bold +little peak towering just above the Col, and known as +the Ruinette. This peak, it may be at once mentioned, +was ascended for the first time in 1865 by Mr. Edward +Whymper, a mountaineer who has never ceased happily +to add to his spoils and trophies since in all parts of +the globe, and who, unlike most of the clan, has kept +in the front rank from the day he first climbed an +Alpine slope. +</p> +<note place="margin">A prescription for ill-humour</note> +<p> +We arrived soaked through, and with deplorably +short tempers, at the hotel at Monvoisin. Now tobacco +has been vaunted as a palliative to persons +in this emotional state. Liquid remedies, described +by the vulgar-minded as <q>a drop of something +short,</q> or, more tersely, <q>a wet,</q> have been recommended +as tending to induce a healthier state +of mind. But there is one specific remedy which +never fails, and to this by tacit consent we at once +resorted. +</p> + +<p> +Even as one touch of nature has been stated, on +reliable authority, to make the whole world kin, so +may one touch of a lucifer match, if discreetly applied +beneath well-seasoned logs, induce even in the most +irritable and wearied individual a change of feeling +and a calm contentment. As the logs crackled and +<pb n='243'/><anchor id='Pg243'/>spluttered, hissing like angry cats, so did the prescription +purge away, if not the evil humours, at any rate +the ill-humour engendered by sore feet and damp +raiment, till it vanished with the smoke up the +chimney. As a matter of actual fact, however, it +ought to be stated that the greater part of the smoke at +first made its way into the room. Before long, assisted +by a passable dinner, which acts on such conditions of +mind as do the remedies known to the learned in +medicine as <q>derivatives,</q> we waxed monstrous merry. +We laughed heartily at our own jokes, and with almost +equal fervour at those of other people—a very creditable +state of feeling, as any who have associated much +with facetiously disposed folk will be ready to acknowledge. +As the evening wore on, and the fire burnt +lower, we became more silent and thoughtful, watching +the pale blue and green tongues of flame licking round +the charred logs. There is a pleasure, too, in this +state. No one felt disposed to break the charm of +thoughtfulness in the company by throwing on fresh +fuel. The fire had done its work, had helped matters +on, had left things a little better than it found them—an +epitome of a good and useful life. The embers fell +together at last, throwing up but a few short-lived +sparks; nothing remained but the recollection of what +had been once so bright, and a heap of ashes—a fit +emblem; for one of the party who was the life and +soul of the expedition can never again join in body +<pb n='244'/><anchor id='Pg244'/>with us in the Alps, or revisit those Alpine midlands +he loved so keenly. We rose from our seats +and threw back the curtains from the window. The +mists had vanished, and with them all doubt and all +uncertainty, while the stream of light from the full +moon seemed a promise of peace and rest from elsewhere. +</p> + +<note place="margin">A meditation on grass slopes</note> + +<p> +At an early period of a walk there is always the +greatest objection to putting forth exertion, the result +of which has almost immediately to be undone. That +man is indeed robust, and possessed of three times +the ordinary amount of brass, if he fails not to find +it distasteful to walk up a hill at the end of an +expedition, or down one at the commencement. +The drawback to the commanding position of the +hotel at Monvoisin lies in the fact that it is absolutely +necessary to descend the hill to begin with, +which always seems a sinful waste of energy, seeing +that the grass slopes opposite, which are steep, +have immediately afterwards to be climbed. The +natural grass steps looked inviting, but in the language +of the Portuguese dialogue book we found them +all either <q>too long or much short.</q> One ascent over +a grass slope is very much like another, and description +in detail would be as wearisome as the slopes +themselves often prove. Yet it is worthy of notice +that there is an art to be acquired even in climbing +grass slopes. We had more than one opportunity on +<pb n='245'/><anchor id='Pg245'/>the present occasion of seeing that persons look +supremely ridiculous if they stumble about, and we +noticed also that, like a bowler when he has delivered +a long hop to the off for the third time in one over, +the stumbler invariably inspects the nails in his +boots, a proceeding which deceives no one. It is quite +easy to judge of a man’s real mountaineering capacity +by the way in which he attacks a steep grass +slope. The unskilful person, who fancies himself perfectly +at home amongst the intricacies of an ice-fall, +will often candidly admit that he never can walk with +well-balanced equilibrium on grass, a form of vegetable +which, it might be thought in many instances +of self-sufficient mountaineers, would naturally suit +them. There is often real danger in such places, +and not infrequently the wise man will demand the +use of the rope, especially when there are any tired +members among the party. There is no better way +of learning how to preserve a proper balance on a +slope than by practising on declivities of moderate +steepness, and it is astonishing to find how often +those who think they have little to learn, or, still +worse, believe that there is nothing to learn, will find +themselves in difficulties on a mountain-side, and +forced to realise that they have got themselves into +a rather humiliating position. We may have seen +before now, all of us, distinguished cragsmen to +whom an ascent of the Weisshorn or Matterhorn +<pb n='246'/><anchor id='Pg246'/>was but a mere stroll, utterly pounded in botanical +expeditions after Edelweiss, and compelled to regain a +position of security by very ungraceful sprawls, or, +worse still, have to resort to the unpardonable alternative +of asking for assistance. It is on such places that +the skill born of constant practice is best shown in the +peasant as contrasted with the amateur; but the latter +could easily acquire the art, were he not, as a rule, too +high and mighty to do so. It is a great point, too, if the +expedition is to be thoroughly enjoyed, to transport +one’s self over the earlier part of the day’s climb with +the least possible amount of exertion. The art possibly +resembles that which, I am told, is acquired by those +of ill-regulated minds, whom the force of circumstances +and the interests of society compel to exercise themselves +for a certain number of hours daily in that +form of unproductive labour exemplified in the +machine known as the treadmill. No doubt the very +ardent mountaineer might find that facilities would +be accorded to him during such time as he cannot +visit the Alps of practising this art in the manner +indicated. +</p> + +<note place="margin">The agile person’s vagaries</note> + +<p> +Before long, the smooth unbroken snow slope leading +up to the Col du Mont Rouge, glistening like a +sheet of amber-coloured satin in the light of early +dawn, came into sight. One of the party, who had complained +throughout of the slow pace at which he had +been going, and who was already far ahead, now went +<pb n='247'/><anchor id='Pg247'/>through a singular performance. Conceiving that +he would stimulate us to greater exertion by displaying +his own agility, he suddenly shot forth, as +an arrow from the bow, and ran at great speed on to +the snow slope. But he had misjudged the hardness +of the snow. It fell out, therefore, that after two +or three curious flounders his limbs suddenly shot +out to all points of the compass. A desperate effort +to recall his members under control resulted only in +his suddenly coiling up into a little round ball, like +a spider in a state of nervousness, and in that +shape descending with considerable momentum, and +not a few bumps, down the slope over some knobby +stones and on to a fortunately placed little grass +ledge. When we joined him a few minutes later, he +observed unblushingly that he had found a capital +place for breakfast. So have I seen a skater, after +performing a few exercises of a somewhat violent +nature, resembling the dances performed by nigger +minstrels wearing excessively long boots, suddenly sit +down and instantly adjust a perfectly correctly +applied strap. On resuming our journey the agile +member was firmly secured with a rope, for fear, as +we told him, that he should become possessed with +a sudden idea to hunt for a suitable place for +luncheon by resorting to his previous tactics. Somewhat +crestfallen, he took a place in the rear of the +caravan, and condescended to make use of the little +<pb n='248'/><anchor id='Pg248'/>notches scraped out by the leader in the hard +snow. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Ascent of the Ruinette</note> + +<p> +A few minutes later the full sunlight of early +morning burst upon us, and produced, as it always +does on such occasions, a feeling of supreme contempt +for those slothful individuals who had not got up +as early as we had. This moment of exhilaration +is often the very best of a whole expedition, and is +apt to lead, I know not why, to an ebullition of +feeling, which usually takes the form of horse-play +and practical joking. A series of gentle slopes led us +up to the Col. Our ascent took us gradually round the +base of the Ruinette, and we cast anxious glances to +our right to see if any practicable line of rocks could +be made out. The mountain is tolerably steep from +this side, but the rocks are broken and were bare of +snow. On the summit of the Col the party divided, the +agile person and some of the others deciding that they +would go straight on to Arolla, while Burgener and I +bespoke the services of the porter, and made straight +for the long buttress of rock running down almost +directly to the Col on the north-west face of the +mountain. Half an hour’s complicated scrambling +resulted in our attaining a little level plateau of +rock on the ridge. As we looked down on to the +great snow-field from which the Gétroz glacier takes +its origin, we perceived, far away, the forms of our +companions looking like a flight of driven grouse +<pb n='249'/><anchor id='Pg249'/>about a quarter of a minute after the sportsman has +missed them with both barrels. No doubt they were +enjoying themselves thoroughly, but from our point of +view the sight of some four or five individuals walking +along at ten-foot intervals with bowed heads and +plodding gait did not suggest any very consummate +pleasure. Rejoicing, therefore, that they were making +nice tracks for us to follow later in the day, we turned +again to the rocks above. Following always the ridge, +we clambered straight up, and found opportunities +for very pretty gymnastics (that is, from our own +point of view) on this part of the mountain. Our +object was to select rocks that would give good practice +in climbing, rather than to pick out the easiest +possible line, and as a result we got into more than +one difficult place, difficult enough at any rate to +demand much conversation on the part of the guides. +In about three hours from the Col we found ourselves +looking over the arête on to the southern side of the +mountain with a very compact and varied view in all +directions. Close by, the long ridge of the Serpentine +formed a fine foreground, and a wide expanse of +glacier district made up a tolerably wild panorama. +A few minutes’ climbing along the crest landed us +above a deep notch filled in with soft snow. Into +this we plunged, and in another minute or two +stood on the summit of the Ruinette. So far as we +knew at the time, the mountain had not previously +<pb n='250'/><anchor id='Pg250'/>been ascended from the northern side, and, indeed, +the peak does not appear to be visited nearly so often +as it deserves. Following for the most part the +same line as that taken during the ascent, we regained, +in about a couple of hours, the Col. Here +we hunted diligently, seeking what we might devour, +and feeling sure that our friends would have left us +something as a reward for our energy. It transpired, +however, subsequently, that the agile person’s exertions +had provoked in him such an appetite that there +was little if anything to leave, so we followed the +tracks laid out in the snow, noticing with some +concern that one member of the previous party had +sunk at every step some eighteen inches deeper into +the soft compound than anybody else. By the marks +on the snow we perceived, also, that he had trailed +his axe along by his side, a sure sign of weariness. +By sunset we had gained the Pas de Chévres, and ran +gaily down the gentle slope towards the hotel. A +little distance from the building we came so suddenly +upon a manly form, outstretched, like a stranded +star-fish, on a mossy bank, that we almost leaped upon +his stomach. Yet he moved not, and was apparently +wrapped in slumber. We stopped and crept cautiously +up to survey him more closely. It was the agile +person. +</p> +</div><div> +<pb n='251'/><anchor id='Pg251'/> +<index index="toc" level1="2. A little maiden"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="2. A little maiden"/> +<head>2. <hi rend='italic'>A Little Maiden.</hi></head> +<note place="margin">Saas in the olden days</note> +<p> +In the old days of mountaineering, Saas was a +place more often talked about than visited. The +beauty of the scenery around was indeed unquestionable, +the number of expeditions of every degree of difficulty +seemed almost without limit, first-rate guides +could be obtained with ease, and yet there was never +any difficulty in finding quarters in the hotels. In +ascending the main valley from Visp the great stream +of travellers divided at Stalden into a large stream +that made its way to Zermatt and a little rivulet that +meandered along the much finer valley towards Saas +and the Mattmark. It thus fell out that, notwithstanding +a small body of indefatigable mountaineers +had explored the higher peaks and passes on both +sides of the valley with tolerable completeness, there +was left a considerable number of smaller expeditions +capable of providing good amusement for the climber +desirous of acquiring fame or of exploring the less +known districts. In these days, when the soaring +ambition of mountaineers has led them to climb +heights far greater than any found in the Alps, an +account of an expedition of an unimportant peak may +seem out of place. Indeed, its details were so devoid +of sensational incident that the recital may be dull; +but, as will appear directly, that is not the writer’s +<pb n='252'/><anchor id='Pg252'/>fault; at any rate, he ventures to give it, for the same +reason that invariably prompts youthful authors to +write unnecessary books; that is, as they say in their +preface, to supply a want long felt—a want, it may +be stated, usually felt in their own pockets and nowhere +else. +</p> + +<p> +With every respect to the older generation +of mountaineers, they are much to blame in one +matter. The stock of Alpine jokes is scanty; indeed, +a well-read author can get them all, with a little arrangement, +into the compass of one short description +of a day in the mountains. Again, the number of +Alpine subjects lending themselves to facetiousness is +but small. The supply has been proved beyond +question entirely inadequate to meet the demand, but +former writers have recklessly drawn on this limited +stock and entirely exhausted the topics, if not the +readers. Some allowance may therefore be made +when the position is considered, and it is realised that +the writer is endeavouring to patch together a fabric +with materials almost too threadbare for use, and that +he is compelled wholly to pass by such attractive topics +as the early start and consequent ill-temper, the dirty +porter, the bergschrund, the use of tobacco, or the +flea. The last-mentioned beast is in fact now universally +prohibited from intrusion into polite Alpine +literature; he has had his day. But why? he has +surely some right to the place. An eminent French +<pb n='253'/><anchor id='Pg253'/>composer<note place="foot">Hector Berlioz.</note> has written a ballad in his honour; but +though, as old Hans Andersen wrote, he was much +thought of at one time, and occupied a high position, +seeing that he was in the habit of mixing with the +human race, and might even have royal blood in his +veins, yet he is now deposed. I cannot forbear from +paying a last tribute to the memory of a departing, +though formerly constant, companion. To find oneself +obliged to cut the acquaintance of a friend whom I have +fed with my own hand must give rise to some qualms. +</p> + +<p> +Unfortunately, too, the older writings are too well +known of many to be dished up again in altered form, +like a Sunday dinner in the suburbs; so that even +the most common form of originality, videlicet, forgetfulness +of the source from which you are borrowing, +is forbidden. Plagiarism is a crime that seldom is +allowed to pass undetected. There are many people +in this world possessed of such a small amount of +originality themselves, that they spend their whole +time in searching for the want of that quality in +others. The human inhabitants of the ark, unless +they made the most of their unexampled opportunities +for the study of natural history, must have become +desperately bored with each other, and no doubt, +when set free, said all the good things, each in their +own independent nucleus of commencing society, which +they had heard while immured. On the whole, it is +<pb n='254'/><anchor id='Pg254'/>fortunate for writers that the period known as the +dark ages came to pass; it allowed those who commenced +their career on this side of the hiatus to make, +on the old lines, a perfectly fresh start. +</p> +<note place="margin">A curious omission</note> +<p> +Perhaps no country in the world has had the +minute topography of its uninhabited districts so +thoroughly worked out as Switzerland. Beyond +question the orography is more accurately given +than anywhere else; in this respect, indeed, no +other country can compare with it. It might seem, +even to those who have studied the matter, almost +impossible to find any corner of the Alps that has not +been described; and the discovery that a few superficial +square yards of Swiss territory, arranged on an +incline, had not been discussed in detail came upon +the writer with somewhat of a shock. It was clearly +somebody’s duty to rectify the omission and fill the +gap; whether the expedition was of importance from +any point of view, or whether any one in the wide +world had the smallest desire to read a description of +it, was a matter of no moment whatever. There was +a vacuum, and it was a thing abhorrent. The mountain, +to which reference is made above, lies east of +Saas, and is known to such of the inhabitants as have +any knowledge of geography as the Portienhorn. +Substantially this peak is the highest point of a long +rocky ridge running north and south, and called the +Portien Grat. +</p> + +<pb n='255'/><anchor id='Pg255'/> + +<note place="margin">The chef’s masterpiece</note> + +<p> +One fine evening we sat outside the inn at Saas +just before dinner, seriously discussing the prospect +of climbing this mountain. The guides were of +opinion that we ought to sleep out, and surmised +that the rocks might be found much more difficult +than they looked. With some reluctance on our part +<anchor id="corr255"/><corr sic="thier">their</corr> views were allowed to prevail on the point, and +they started off in triumph, promising to return and +report when all the necessary preparations for starting +should be completed, while we went in to prepare ourselves +for the next day by an early dinner. The inn +in those days was somewhat rude, and the cuisine was +not remarkable save for the extraordinary faculty +possessed by the chef for cooking anything that happened +to come in his way, and reducing it all to the +same level of tastelessness. On the present occasion, +however, stimulated, no doubt, by certain critical +rebukes, he had determined to surpass himself. +Towards the end of the repast, as we sat chewing +some little wooden toothpicks, which were found to +have more flavour than anything else placed on the +table, we heard the chef cross the yard and go into +a certain little outhouse. A few minutes later a +subtle and delicate aroma made its way into the +apartment, leading us, after a few interrogative sniffs, +to get up and close the window. Gradually the +savour became more pronounced, and one of the party +gave expression to his opinion that there was now +<pb n='256'/><anchor id='Pg256'/>satisfactory proof of the accuracy of his constant +statement that the drains were out of order. Gradually +intensifying, the savour assumed the decided +character of a smell, and we looked out of window +to see in which direction the cemetery lay. Stronger +and stronger grew the perception as steps came +mounting up the stairs; the door opened, and all +doubt was set at rest as the chef entered, bearing +proudly a large cheese. In a moment, to his dismay, +he was left undisputed master of the apartment. +</p> +<note place="margin">An evicted family</note> +<p> +We left Saas equipped as for a serious expedition. +A stout rustic, who was the most preternaturally ugly +man I ever saw, led the way; he had a very large +mouth and an odd-shaped face, so that he resembled +a frog with a skewer wedged across inside his cheeks. +On his back he bore a bag full of very spiky straw, +which the guides said was a mattress. In about an +hour’s time we arrived at a carelessly built chalet on +the Almagel Alp, of which the outside was repulsive +and the inside revolting. But the experienced mountaineer, +on such occasions, is not easily put out, and +exhibits very little astonishment at anything he may +see, and none at anything that he may smell. The +hut consisted of a single apartment, furnished with a +fireplace and a bed. The fireplace was situated in +the centre of the room; the couch was separated by +a dilapidated hoarding from a shed tenanted by a +cow of insatiable appetite—indeed, it may have been +<pb n='257'/><anchor id='Pg257'/>originally designed as a manger. The bed, which +accommodated apparently the family of the tenant, +was found on actual measurement to be forty-eight +inches in length and twenty in width; nevertheless +the two guides packed themselves into it, adopting in +their recumbent position the theory that if you keep +your head and your feet warm you are all right. By +the flickering gleams of firelight it could be perceived +through the smoke that these were the only portions +of their frames actually in the bed owing to its excessive +shortness; but guides share, with babies in +perambulators, a happy faculty of being able to sleep +peacefully whatever be the position of their heads. +The dispossessed family of the tenant would not +submit, notwithstanding strong remarks, to summary +eviction, and watched our proceedings with much +interest. It was pointed out to them that curiosity +was a vicious quality, that it had been defined as +looking over other people’s affairs and overlooking +one’s own, and that, on the whole, they had better +retire, which they did reluctantly, to a little shed in +which was a large copper pot with other cheese-making +accessories. Apparently they spent the night in +scouring the copper pot. +</p> + +<p> +The mattress proved to be so tightly packed that +it was easier, on the whole, to lie awake under it than +to sleep on the top of it, and less painful. About +4 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> one of the guides incautiously moved his head, +<pb n='258'/><anchor id='Pg258'/>and having thus disturbed his equilibrium fell heavily +on to the floor. Thereupon he woke up and said it +was time to start. We bade a cheerful adieu to our +host, who was obtaining such repose as could be got +by the process of leaning against the doorpost, and +made our way upwards. +</p> + +<p> +On the south side of the Portienhorn a long and +rough rocky ridge, preserving a tolerably uniform +height, extends as far as the Sonnighorn. Ultimately +the ridge, still running in a southerly direction, +curves slightly round to the west up to the +Monte Moro, and thus forms the head of the Saas +valley. There are several unimportant peaks in this +ridge perhaps equally worthy, with the Portienhorn, +of a place in literature; but of all the points south of +the Weissmies this Portienhorn is perhaps the most +considerable, and certainly the most difficult of access. +At any rate, we climbed the peak, and this is how we +did it. +</p> + +<note place="margin">A short cut after a knife</note> + +<p> +It was clear that the southern ridge was more +feasible than the northern one, which drops to a col +known as the Zwischbergen Pass, and then rises +again to merge into the mass of the Weissmies. The +whole of the western slope of the Portienhorn is +covered by the Rothblatt Glacier, the ice of which is +plastered up against its sides. We kept to the left of +the termination of this glacier, and after a brief look +round turned our steps away from the rock buttress +<pb n='259'/><anchor id='Pg259'/>forming the northern boundary of the glacier, though +we were of opinion that we might by this line ascend +the mountain; but we nevertheless selected the southern +ridge, on the same principle that the sportsman, +perfectly capable of flying across any obstacle, however +high, sometimes, out of consideration no doubt for his +horse, elects to follow somebody else through a gap. +In good time we reached a point about halfway up +the side of the mountain, and halted at the upper +edge of a sloping patch of snow. It was fortunate +that we had ample time to spare, for considerable +delay was experienced here. Burgener had become +newly possessed of a remarkable knife, which he was +perpetually taking out of his pocket and admiring +fondly; in fact, it provided material for conversation +to the guides for the whole day. The knife was an +intricate article, and strikingly useless, being weak in +the joints; but nevertheless Burgener was vastly +proud of the weapon, and valued it as much as an +ugly man does a compliment. In the middle of +breakfast the treasure suddenly slipped out of his +hand, and started off down the slope. With a yell of +anguish he bounded off after it, and went down the +rocks in a manner and at a pace that only a guide in +a state of excitement can exhibit. The incident was +trivial, but it impressed on me the extraordinary +powers of sure-footedness and quickness on rocks that +a good guide possesses. An amateur might have +<pb n='260'/><anchor id='Pg260'/>climbed after these men the whole day, and have +thought that he was nearly as good as they, but he +could no more have gone down a couple of hundred +feet as this guide did without committing suicide, +than he could have performed a double-three backwards +the first time he put on skates. He might, indeed, have +gone backwards, but he would not have achieved his +double-three. Turning northwards the moment we +were on the arête, we made our way, with a good deal +of scrambling, upwards. The rocks were firm and +good, and, being dry, gave no great difficulty. Still +they were far from easy, and now and again there +were short passages sufficiently troublesome to yield +the needed charm to a mountain climb, difficult +enough at any rate to make us leave our axes behind +and move one at a time. But how have the times +altered since our expedition was made! Nowadays +such a climb would be more fitly mentioned casually +after dinner as <q>a nice little walk before church,</q> <q>a +capital after-breakfast scramble,</q> <q>a stroll strongly recommended +to persons of an obese habit,</q> and so forth. +Nevertheless, there is a very distinct pleasure in +climbing up a peak of this sort—greater, perhaps, than +may be found on many of the more highly rated, +formidable, and, if the truth be told, fashionable +mountains; for the expedition was throughout interesting, +and the contrast between the view to the west +where the Mischabelhörner reared up their massive +<pb n='261'/><anchor id='Pg261'/>forms, and to the east looking towards Domo d’Ossola +and the Italian lake district, was one to repay a +climber who has eyes as well as limbs. The crest +was in places tolerably sharp, and we were forced at +times to adopt the expedient, conventionally supposed +to be the only safe one in such cases, of bestriding +the rock edge. It should be stated, however, that, +as usual on such occasions, when we desired to progress +we discarded this position, and made our way +onwards in the graceful attitude observed at the seaside +in those who are hunting on the sand for marine +specimens. And thus we arrived ultimately at the +top, where we gave way to a properly regulated amount +of subdued enthusiasm, proportionate to the difficulty +and height of the vanquished mountain. No trace of +previous travellers could be found on the summit. It +was a maiden ascent. Doubtless the mythical and +ubiquitous chamois-hunter had been up before us, for +at the time I write of the district was noted for +chamois; but even if he had, it makes no difference. +We have found it long since necessary to look upon +ascents stated to have been made by chamois-hunters +as counting for nothing, and in the dearth of new peaks +in the Alps, have to resort to strange devices and +strained ideas for novelty. Thus, a mountain in the +present day can be the means of bringing glory and +honour to many climbers. For instance:— +</p> + +<pb n='262'/><anchor id='Pg262'/> + + <table rend="tblcolumns:'l lw(20m) lw(45m)'"> + <row> + <cell>A</cell> + <cell>climbs it</cell> + <cell>First ascent.</cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell>B</cell> + <cell>ascends it</cell> + <cell>First recorded ascent.</cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell>C</cell> + <cell>goes up it</cell> + <cell>First ascent from the other side.</cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell>D</cell> + <cell>combines A and C’s + expedition</cell> + <cell>First time that the peak has + been <q>colled.</q></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell>E</cell> + <cell>scrambles up the + wrong way</cell> + <cell>First ascent by the E.N.E. + arête.</cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell>F</cell> + <cell>climbs it in the ordinary + way</cell> + <cell>First ascent by an Englishman, + or first ascent without guides.</cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell>G</cell> + <cell>is dragged up by his + guides</cell> + <cell>First real ascent; because all + the others were ignorant of +the topographical details, and +G’s peak is nearly three feet +higher than any other point. +</cell> + </row> + </table> + +<p> +Many more might be added; probably in the +future many more will, for, in modern mountaineering +phrase, the Portienhorn <q>goes all over.</q> By 4 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> +we were back again in the Saas valley. +</p> + +<p> +It seems, as I write, only yesterday that all this +happened. But a regular revolution has really taken +place. There can be no question, I think, that fewer +real mountaineers are to be found in the old <q>playground</q> +than formerly. Still, there are not wanting +climbers, all of them apparently of the first rank. +For among the high Alps now, even as on the dramatic +stage of to-day, there are no amateurs. +</p> + +<note place="margin">The amateur</note> + +<p> +A curious human fungus that has grown up +<pb n='263'/><anchor id='Pg263'/>suddenly of late is the emancipated schoolboy spoken +of by a certain, principally feminine, clique of admirers +as <q>such a wonderful actor, you know.</q> Very learned +is he in the technicalities of the stage. The perspiring +audience in the main drawing-room he alludes to as +<q>those in front.</q> He knows what <q>battens</q> are, and +<q>flies,</q> and <q>tormentors,</q> and <q>spider-traps.</q> He endeavours +to imitate well-known actors, but does not +imitate the laborious process by which these same +artists arrive at successful results. But we all know +him, and are aware also, at any rate by report, of his +overweening vanity, and the manner in which he +intrudes his conception of <q>Hamlet</q> or <q>Richelieu</q> +on a longsuffering public. Without the slightest +knowledge technically of how to walk, talk, sit down, +go off, or come on, he rushes on the boards possessed +solely of such qualifications for his task as may arise +in a brain fermenting with conceit. Critics he regards +as persons existing solely for the purpose of crushing +him, and showing ill-tempered hostility born of envy. +The judicious, if they accept and weakly avail themselves +of orders, can but grieve and marvel that there +should exist that curious state of folly which prompts +a man to exhibit it before the world, or even to thrust +it upon his fellow-creatures. Some men are born +foolish—a pity, no doubt, but the circumstances are +beyond their own control; some achieve a reputation +for lack of wisdom, and even make it pay; but some +<pb n='264'/><anchor id='Pg264'/>thrust their folly on others, and to such no quarter +need be given. The self-constituted exponent of a +most difficult art is not a whit more ridiculous than +the boy or man who rushes at a difficult peak before +he has learnt the elements of mountaineering science. +A man may become a good amateur actor if he will +consent to devote his leisure to ascertaining what +there is to learn, and trying to learn it; and a man +may become a good mountaineer by adopting the +same line of action. But this is rarely the case. Too +often they forget that, as a late president of the +Alpine Club remarked, <q>life is a great opportunity, +not to be thrown away lightly.</q> It is said sometimes +by unreflecting persons that such institutions as the +Alpine Club are responsible for the misfortunes and +calamities that have arisen from time to time, and +may still arise. But there has been a good example +set if recruits would only turn to it; for the mountaineers +in the old style, speaking of a generation +that climbs but little in these days, did what it is +the fashion now to call their <q>work</q> thoroughly—too +thoroughly and completely, perhaps, to please altogether +their successors. Novelty in the mountains of Switzerland +may be exhausted, but there are still too +many expeditions of which, because they have been +done once or twice, the danger is not adequately +recognised. If these remarks, written in no captious +spirit, but rather with the strongest desire to lay +<pb n='265'/><anchor id='Pg265'/>stress on truths that are too often ignored, should +lead any aspiring but unpractised mountaineer to +pause and reflect before he tries something beyond +his strength and capabilities, some little good will at +least have been done. It is not that the rules are +unknown; they are simple, short, ready to hand, and +intelligible; but the penalty that may be exacted for +breaking any of them is a terribly heavy one—<hi rend='italic'>absit +omen.</hi> +</p> +</div> +</div><div type="chapter" n="8" rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb n='266'/><anchor id='Pg266'/> +<index index="toc" level1="VIII. A sentimental Alpine journey"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="VIII. A sentimental Alpine journey"/> +<head>CHAPTER VIII.</head> + +<head type="sub">A SENTIMENTAL ALPINE JOURNEY</head> + +<argument><p> +Long <q>waits</q> and entr’actes—The Mont Buet as an unknown +mountain—We hire carriages—A digression on a stationary +vehicle—A straggling start—The incomplete moralist—The niece +to the moralist—A discourse on gourmets—An artistic interlude—We +become thoughtful, and reach the height of sentiment and +the top of the Mont Buet—Some other members of the party—The +mountaineers perform—How glissading ambition did o’erleap +itself—A vision on the summit—The moralist leaves us for +a while—Entertainment at the Bérard Chalet—View of the +Aiguille Verte—The end of the journey. +</p></argument> + +<p> +A fair critic—in the matter of sex—discussing a +recently published work with the author, remarked +that it was the most charming book she had ever +read. <q>I was told it would not interest me,</q> she +remarked most seriously to him, <q>but really I found +it delightful: there are such lovely wide margins to +the pages, you know.</q> On much the same principle a +highly intelligent lady, noted for her theatrical discrimination, +once remarked that she liked those +theatres best which afforded the longest entr’actes. +So in the Alps we felt from time to time the necessity, +between the more stirring episodes resulting from +<pb n='267'/><anchor id='Pg267'/>higher mountaineering, to interpose minor expeditions, +on which no less care and thought was often lavished +to make them worthy of pursuit. These were our +entr’actes. Of such expeditions it is customary to say +that they are the most enjoyable of any undertaken. +Without going so far as this, it may be conceded that +they have a pleasure of their own, and it is at least +no more difficult to discover a novel form of sub-Alpine +expedition than to vary the details of a big +climb. One of these episodes, undertaken while we +were barred from the higher mountains by a fall +of snow, consisted in a night attack on the Mont +Buet. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Mont Buet</note> + +<p> +Now the Mont Buet, although it lies close to the +regular highway to Chamouni from the Rhone valley, +is a peak but rarely even seen of the ordinary tourist; +and, considering the numbers of our countrymen +that flock to the village whence they imagine that +they see the summit of Mont Blanc, the English folk +who make the ascent are strangely few. Yet the walk +is not a laborious one; not more fatiguing, for +example, than the tramp from Martigny to Chamouni +over the Col de Balme on a hot day. Fashion in the +mountains is very conservative, and probably it is too +late in the day now to hope that this mountain will +ever gain all the reputation it deserves, for, though +comparatively unknown, its praises have been by no +means left unsung. Possibly the lowness of the guides’ +<pb n='268'/><anchor id='Pg268'/>tariff for the peak may have something to do with the +matter, and may serve to explain why it is so much +left out in the cold; for this is a very potent agent +in determining the attractiveness of special localities. +How many go to Chamouni, and never wander along +one of the most beautiful sylvan paths in the Alps, +that leads to the Glacier des Bossons through the +woods, where the view, as the spectator suddenly finds +himself confronted with the huge stream of pure +glacier, topped by a most magnificent ice-fall, and +backed by the crags of the Aiguille du Midi, compares +by no means unfavourably with the more frequently +photographed panorama from the Montanvert. Ask +a dozen persons at haphazard who are staying at +Chamouni where the Mont Buet is, and ten out of the +number will be unable to answer you. But the +pictures hung on the line are not invariably the best +in an exhibition; and the Mont Buet is a masterpiece, +so to speak, <q>skied.</q> +</p> + +<note place="margin">We hire carriages</note> + +<p> +Our party that summer at Chamouni was a large +one, for we had stayed a long time in the hotel, and +knew, as the phrase goes, a great many to speak to—quite +a different thing to answering for them. We +conceived the plan of so timing our modest expedition +as to arrive on the summit of the Mont Buet about +sunset. It was agreed by some members of the party +that it would be <q>such fun, you know,</q> to come down +in the dark. The inference to be gathered from this +<pb n='269'/><anchor id='Pg269'/>is that the party was not exclusively composed of the +male sex. Two of us, reputed to be good at a bargain, +were deputed to charter carriages to convey +the members of the expedition up to Argentière, +where the ascent commenced. The carriages of +Chamouni, though no doubt practical and well suited +to the mountain roads, were not found to be of +uniform excellence. Availing ourselves of a proper +<anchor id="corr269"/><corr sic="in roduction">introduction</corr>, we made the temporary acquaintance +of an individual interested officially in vehicular +traffic, who possessed that remarkable insight into +character noticeable in all who are concerned with +horses, and knew exactly what we wanted without any +preliminary explanation on our part. <q>Voilà votre +affaire,</q> he said, and indicated a machine that would +have been out of date when the first <hi rend='italic'>char-à-banc</hi> was +constructed. We inquired if the somewhat unsavoury +load (it had, apparently, been in recent requisition +for farming purposes) which the cart contained might +be removed, and he said there was no objection to +this. <q>See,</q> said the proprietor, <q>the seats have +backs.</q> <q>But they tip up,</q> we remonstrated. <q>That +is nothing,</q> rejoined the proprietor; <q>they can be tied +down: the carriage is good, and has gone many miles. +However, Monsieur is evidently particular; he shall +be satisfied. Behold!</q> and the proprietor threw +open the creaking door of a shed, and revealed to +our gaze a pretentious landau with faded linings and +<pb n='270'/><anchor id='Pg270'/>wheels which did not seem to be circular. This +<q>machine,</q> he assured us, it would be hard to equal +for locomotive purposes. Two strange beasts were +connected to it, chiefly, as it seemed, by bits of string. +One of the animals was supported on two very puffy +hind legs and two very tremulous fore-legs, and +seemed perpetually on the point of going down on +its knees to supplicate that it might be allowed to go +no further. Its companion was a horse of the most +gloomy nature, that no amount of chastisement could +stir from a despondent and pensive frame of mind. +Both these treasures had a capacity for detecting an +upward incline that was marvellously acute. Then +there was a structure like a magnified perambulator, +of which one wheel was afflicted with a chronic propensity +for squeaking, while the other described a +curious serpentine track as it rolled along. Not +being, however, in any particular hurry, we decided +to avail ourselves of such assistance as these vehicles +might afford, and did, as a matter of fact, ultimately +reach our destination, if not in, at least with them. +</p> + +<note place="margin">The incomplete moralist</note> + +<p> +From Argentière we followed the familiar track of +the Tête Noire for some little distance, and then bore +away to the left up the valley leading towards the Bérard +Chalet. The party, which had kept well together for +the first few minutes after parting with the carriages, +were soon straggling off in every direction, and the +chief organiser of the expedition, desperately anxious +<pb n='271'/><anchor id='Pg271'/>lest some should go astray and be no more found, ran +to and fro from one little group to another, and got +into a highly excitable frame of mind, like a busily +minded little dog when first taken out for a walk. +Chief among the more erratic members was an +elderly person who had, unwisely, been asked to join +the party for no very definite reason, but because +some one had said that it would be obviously incomplete +without him. The old gentleman had no +previous experience of mountain walks, but had very +complete theories on the subject. He had made +great preparations for his day’s climb, had carefully +dieted himself the day previously, and was not a little +proud of his equipment and attire. He was furnished +with a spiked umbrella, a green tin box, and +a particularly thin pair of boots; for he wished to +prove the accuracy of a theory that man, being +descended from the apes, might properly use his feet +as prehensile members, and he held that this additional +aid would prove valuable on rocks. It was currently +reported, notwithstanding his loquacity, that he was +a very wise person, and indeed he dropped hints himself, +which he was much annoyed if we did not take, +on the subject of a projected literary work. We were +given to understand that the publishers were all +hankering after the same, and he had a manner in +conversation of tentatively quoting passages and +watching eagerly for the effects. He was known to +<pb n='272'/><anchor id='Pg272'/>us as the incomplete moralist, and proved to be a +very didactic person. +</p> + +<note place="margin">The niece to the moralist</note> + +<p> +But this was not all; there was one other member +of the party, who may be described, as in the old-fashioned +list of the <q>Dramatis Personæ,</q> as <q>niece to +the moralist.</q> Somehow or another, she seemed to +lead everything; instinctively all gave way to her +wishes, and even the chief organiser looked to her for +confirmation of his opinions before enunciating them +with decision. Bright, impulsive, wilful, she led the +moralist, subjectively speaking, whither she would, and +he had no chance at all. <q>She ought not to have +come at all on such an expedition,</q> he said, looking at +the light, fragile form ahead; <q>but you know you can’t +persuade a butterfly to take systematic exercise, and +everything seems to give her so much pleasure;</q> and +here the moralist looked rather wistful, and somehow +the artificiality seemed to fade away from him for the +moment. <q>Such of us,</q> he resumed, <q>as stay long +enough in this world cease to have much hopefulness; +and when that quality shows up too strong in the +young, such as that child yonder, somehow I don’t +think they often——</q> Here he paused abruptly, and, +selecting a meat lozenge from a store in his tin box, +put it into his mouth and apparently swallowed it at +once; at any rate, he gulped down something. It +must be allowed that the moralist had done his best +to prevent his charge from accompanying the party. +<pb n='273'/><anchor id='Pg273'/>She had been reminded of what learned doctors had +said, that she was not to exert herself; that certain +persons, vaguely alluded to, would be very angry, and +so forth. The moralist had been talked down in two +minutes. He might as well have pointed out to +the little budding leaflets the unwisdom of mistaking +warm days in March for commencing summer; and, +finally, he had surrendered at discretion, fencing himself +in with some stipulations as to warm cloaks, +<q>this once only,</q> and the like, which he knew would +not be attended to. So she came, and her eager +brightness shed a radiance over the most commonplace +objects, and infected the most prosaic of the +party, even a young lady of varied accomplishments, +who distinguished herself later on. After all, if the +flame burned a little more brightly at the expense of +a limited stock of fuel, was there anything to regret? +Tone down such brightness as hers was, and you have +but an uncut diamond, or a plant that may possibly +last a little longer because its blossom, its fruit, and +with them its beauties, have been cut off to preserve +the dull stem to the utmost. Check the natural +characteristics and outflow of such natures, and you +force them to the contemplation of what is painful +and gloomy. You bring them back fully to this +world, and it is their greatest privilege to be but half +in it, and to have eyes blind to the seamy side. The +Alpine rose-glow owes its fascination to the fact that +<pb n='274'/><anchor id='Pg274'/>we know it will soon fade. So is it with these natures. +They are to be envied. We may hold it truth with +him who sings, <q>Better fifty years of Europe than a +cycle of Cathay.</q> But the parallel is not strictly +true: the brightness will not fade, but will be there +to the end, and the streak of sadness running through +it all gives the fascination. So the wit that approaches +nearest to pathos touches us most deeply, and is one +of the rarest of intellectual talents. With what a +thrill of mixed, but yet pleasurable, sensation do we +recall the timely jest of a lost friend. But all this +has nothing to do with a holiday expedition in the +Alps. Still, it must be remembered, we were on a +sentimental journey in the mountains. +</p> + +<p> +Before long the chief organiser, seizing an opportunity +when most of the stragglers were within earshot, +announced at the top of his voice that luncheon +would be served on certain flat rocks. This had the +immediate effect of uniting our scattered forces. The +first to arrive (the moralist was slow of foot) were +some gallant members of the high mountaineering +fraternity, who throughout the day evinced astounding +activity, and an unwonted desire to carry burdens +on their backs. Secretly they were burning with an +ambition to display their prowess on some <q>mauvais +pas,</q> or glissade, an ambition rewarded later on in a +somewhat remarkable manner. The rock was spread, +the moralist selected a comfortable place, and, +stimu<pb n='275'/><anchor id='Pg275'/>lated by the appearance of the viands, favoured us +with certain extracts. +</p> + +<note place="margin">A discourse on gourmets</note> + +<p> +<q>There are many,</q> he observed, holding a large +piece of pie to his mouth and eyeing it to select an +appropriate place for the next bite, <q>who hold that +the sense of taste is not one to which we should much +minister. I do not hold with such;</q> and here he +found the right spot, and for a minute or two the +thread of his discourse was broken off. <q>The painter +blends colours to please the sense of sight; the +musician studies harmonies of sound to please the +ear; each appeals to but one of our imperfect senses, +and yet we think much of them for so doing; we +compliment them, and give them the appellation of +artists. Now the worthy person who dexterously +compounded this article, of which, alas! I hold now +but little in my hand, appeals not to a single but to +a twofold sense; he ministers alike to taste and to +smell, and I must own, after a toilsome walk, with +commendable results. He is an artist in the highest +sense of the word; his merits, to my thinking, are +but inadequately recognised in this world. I am convinced +that they will be more so in another. The +gourmet’s paradise shall provide for him a cherubic +state of existence; then shall he have all the pleasure +that the palate can afford without any ill-omened +presage of subsequent discomfort; for, thrice happy +that he will be, digestion will be an anatomical +<pb n='276'/><anchor id='Pg276'/>impossibility.</q> It may be remarked parenthetically +that the possession of a gigantic brain had not +obviated, in the case of the moralist, the deleterious +effects of sour wine. But the moralist was not, as yet, +much of a cherub. +</p> + +<p> +As the speaker showed unmistakable signs of +continuing his discourse, which had been chiefly +directed at a youth of whom we only knew that he +was some one’s brother, if the opportunity were +afforded, a sudden and general move was made, and +the proposal that a short adjournment should take +place previous to resuming our upward journey found +instant favour. The chief organiser was by common +consent left to pack up. Straightway the ladies all +produced little sketch-books, and fell very vigorously +to recording their impressions of the scenery around; +whilst the moralist, already somewhat stiff, wandered +from one group to the other and favoured them with +his suggestions. The result of half an hour’s work +with pencil and brush was to produce diagrams of +certain objects which looked uncommonly like telegraph +poles with cross bars attached, but which were +coloured of a vivid green, and were thus obviously +intended for fir trees. The moralist, not finding that +his remarks were met with much favour by the artists, +selected an ascetic who sat apart from the others, and +delivered his next discourse into his inattentive but +uncomplaining ear. +</p> + +<pb n='277'/><anchor id='Pg277'/> + +<note place="margin">An artistic interlude</note> + +<p> +<q>It seems strange to me,</q> he remarked, <q>that those +who are wholly unable to depict, even in the most +elementary manner, the commonplace objects around +them, are for ever seen in the Alps striving after the +most impossible art problems. If so great a stimulus +is needed, a poor result may be confidently anticipated.</q> +(Here the moralist made a fourth attempt to +light a very curious native cigar.) <q>If it takes the +sight of Nature in her sublimest phase, as seen in the +Alps, to stimulate our friends here to show their art, +why, then they haven’t much of it. A milestone +should be sufficient for the purpose, but it seems that +they require a Matterhorn; and it may be gathered, +from what I have heard you and your companions +say, that what is true of Alpine art is true also of +Alpine climbing, and that the <hi rend='italic'>dilettanti</hi> will never take +the trouble to learn how much there is to learn. Our +friends here try to paint a glacier, and have not the +most elementary idea of its anatomy. They represent +vast panoramas, and know nothing of distance; +they——</q> But here the moralist, in the excitement of +his discourse, turned a little white, probably from the +depth of his feelings; and, throwing away his cigar, +walked off alone, and was discovered shortly after +perspiring a good deal, and crumpled up in a somewhat +limp and helpless state. +</p> + +<p> +The books were packed up, for the sun was setting +low, and the party wended their way up the steep +<pb n='278'/><anchor id='Pg278'/>grass slope till the first great dome of the Mont Buet +came well into sight. Far ahead was the niece, +seemingly unconscious of the effects that the exertion +of climbing told on her slight frame. She was apparently +unaware of any companions around, though +watchful eyes and strong hands were always near lest +any mischance should befall. She spoke to no one. +Nature absorbed all her faculties as she went on with +cheeks rather flushed, and bright, dilated eyes drinking +in every object and every point of beauty. As an +artist in the exercise of his craft makes the outside +world acquainted with beauties ever present to his +eyes, so did the effect on her of the wondrous lights +and shades and colours around call up new thoughts +and reveal fresh marvels in the panorama to others, +though well acquainted with such Alpine scenes. +The spell caught one after another, till the whole +party, all held by the same unsuspected fascination, +walked silently on, while the majestic splendour +around inspired an awe in the mind that even those +most familiar with the marvels of nature in the +mountains had never felt before. The mere recognition +of the fact that the same thought or emotion +is passing simultaneously through the minds of many +is in itself so striking, that the impression so caused +will not ever be effaced from the mind. A crowded +hall is waiting for the advent of the orator of the +occasion, and there enters an old man whose name +<pb n='279'/><anchor id='Pg279'/>and work were familiar to all. Instantly, and as if +by magic, all present rose to their feet in token of +respect. No word was spoken, no signal given. The +matter may seem slight, but the scene was one that +those present will never forget. The most hideous +part of the punishment in the old days to the criminal +must have been the moment when, as he stepped +through the last door, the sea of faces below him +upturned simultaneously with a howl of execration. +And all these thoughts were called up by the fact that +one consumptive girl was a member of our mountain +party. Well, such was the case, and it made the +expedition different in many ways from any that we +had ever undertaken, but not perhaps the less worthy +of remembrance. +</p> + +<note place="margin">We become thoughtful</note> + +<p> +<q>It looks a long way off,</q> observed the moralist, +gazing despondently upwards. <q>Do you say that the +object of our expedition is to climb up to that eminence +yonder? I fear lest some of the weaker +members of the party should fail.</q> (The moralist was +now the penultimate member of the party, the absolute +rear being brought up by one of the guides, who was +pushing him up with the head of his axe. The youth +to whom he was in the habit of addressing his +discourses had in a revengeful mood offered similar +assistance; but the youth wore such a saturnine look +when he made the suggestion, that it was declined +hastily with thanks.) <q>I think that if I took a little +<pb n='280'/><anchor id='Pg280'/>wine</q>—here he took all that was left—<q>this feeling of +disinclination to move might conceivably pass off, and +I could then encourage some of the others on what is +clearly to them an arduous expedition. Ah me! but +these little stones are excessively sharp to the feet; +let us turn off on to the snow. I have heard that it is +possible to walk uphill on such a medium, and yet +scarce recognise the fact.</q> By this time most of the +party were well on to the first summit, and the glories +of the sunset, from a point of view which it would be +hard to match in all the mountains, were beginning to +display themselves to the full. The higher we ascended +the more did the eternal mass of white snow on the +other side of the valley develop and tower above us. +Two or three of the more active members were +floundering in the deep snow along the ridge uniting +the two summits, and finding it, if the truth be told, +no small matter to keep pace with the niece, who +skimmed lightly over the surface. Gallantry and the +desire to keep up their reputation forbade that they +should fall to the rear, or allow the rope to tighten +unduly; but their superior mountaineering experience +seemed not a little in danger of being counterbalanced +by their superior weight. All over the rocks on the +Sixt side a thin grey veil of mist seemed to hang, +making the cliffs appear still more vertical than nature +had moulded them, and tinting the crags at the same +time with a deep purple colour. +</p><anchor id="fig282"/> +<pgIf output='txt'><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: A VISION ON A SUMMIT]</p> +</then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illo_180.jpg" rend="w80"><head>A VISION ON A SUMMIT</head> + <figDesc>A vision on a summit</figDesc></figure></p></else></pgIf> +<pb n='281'/><anchor id='Pg281'/> +<note place="margin">A vision on the summit</note> +<p> +In the foreground, looking south, the long jagged +line of the Aiguilles Rouges cut off the view into the +Chamouni valley, and threw up still higher and more +into relief the minor peaks of the Mont Blanc chain. +We huddled together on the summit, while there +seemed hardly time to turn to all points of the +compass to survey the effects. The emotional members +of the party came out strong, and the young +lady of varied accomplishments, who was adjudged by +the others to be of poetic temperament, as she was +fond of alluding rather vaguely to unknown Italian +geniuses, burst forth into ecstasies. However, one or +two of us had rather lost faith in her historical knowledge +and her profound acquaintance with mediæval +art on hearing her discourse learnedly to the vacuous +youth on Savonarola as an artist of great repute, and +on discovering that in the family circle she was held +in submission by an Italianised English governess—discreetly +left at the hotel. A formidable person, +this preceptress, of austere demeanour, with a dyspeptic +habit, highly pomatumed ringlets, and evangelistic +tendencies—a triple combination not infrequently +met with. Still, no one paid any attention to +the accomplished young lady, for an object in the foreground +of the great picture riveted the gaze of most +of us. The niece had advanced a few steps from the +rest of the party, and stood a little apart on the +summit ridge of the mountain, her slight form +<pb n='282'/><anchor id='Pg282'/>brought out in strong relief against the many-tinted +sky. The folds of her dress fluttered back in the +light breeze, and the night wind as it came sighing +over the crest had loosened her veil and tossed it +upwards. Mechanically as she raised her hand to +draw it back, the thin arm and hand seemed to point +upwards to something beyond what we could see. +Instinctively the others all drew back a few paces, and +closed in together as they watched the motionless +form. The sunset glories were more than we could +realise, but somehow we felt that she was gazing with +fixed eyes far, far beyond these—into a pure and +passionless region, beyond the mental grasp of the +profoundest theologian depending on his own acquired +knowledge. As we looked, though she moved no +limb, her breath came faster and faster. One or two +of us made a start forwards, but at that moment the +last red glow vanished from the belt of fleecy cloud +hanging in mid-sky. Lower down, the limestone +cliffs seemed strangely desolate as the icy hand of +night spread over them. The breeze suddenly +dropped and died away. She stamped her foot on +the snow, and with a quick movement of the head +seemed to come back again to the scene around. +<q>Let us go,</q> she said, half petulantly. Silently the +party arranged themselves in order as we wended our +way back along the ridge. We had seen a sight that +lingered in the mind, and that was not easily to be +<pb n='283'/><anchor id='Pg283'/>erased from the memory. As we walked along +we gradually drew closer and closer together, prompted +by some feeling that all seemed to share alike—as if +the recollection of what we had just seen had dazed +the mind, and brought us face to face with some +influence beyond our ordinary thoughts, and as if +with nearer union we should not feel so powerless and +insignificant. But the glories of that sunset from the +Mont Buet, a scene within the reach of all of very +moderate walking ability, were far beyond the power +of any language to describe, and beyond the province +of any discreet writer to attempt. The twilight +gathered in fast, and the snow already felt more crisp +under foot. The roll-call was held, and it was discovered +that the only absentees were the moralist and +his propelling companion. At this point two of the +skilled mountaineers of the party recognised their +opportunity, and were not slow to seize it. Secretly +they had felt that no suitable occasion had hitherto +offered of displaying their prowess, so they volunteered +to perform a glissade for the amusement and +instruction of the others. The ladies clapped their +hands gleefully, and the youth, who did not know +how to glissade, looked sinister. Accordingly the +skilful ones made their way to a steep snow slope, and +started off with great speed and dexterity, amidst the +admiring plaudits of the less acrobatically minded +members. But the course of their true descent did +<pb n='284'/><anchor id='Pg284'/>not run entirely smooth, for before half the downward +journey was accomplished the foremost member was +observed suddenly to propel himself wildly into the +air, performing a remarkable antic—similar to those +known of street Arabs as cart-wheels—and the remainder +of the journey to the foot of the slope was +performed with about the grace of a floating log +descending a mountain torrent. Nor was this all; +the rearmost man, apparently also possessed by an +identical frenzy, leaped forth into the air at precisely +the same spot and in precisely the same manner. +Had it not been that they were known to be highly +skilful and adroit mountaineers the impression might +have gained ground that the circumstances of this +part of the descent were not wholly under their own +control. Ever anxious to investigate the true cause +of strange occurrences, to their credit be it said that +when they had collected their wits and emptied their +pockets of snow, they mounted up again to the scene +of the disaster, and discovered the explanation in an +entirely imaginary stone, which had, beyond doubt, +tripped them up. +</p> + +<note place="margin">The mountaineers perform</note> + +<p> +Somewhat crestfallen, the energetic pair rejoined +the rest of the troupe and a search was instituted for +the moralist. This worthy was discovered, astonishingly +weary of body but surprisingly active of mind, +wedged in a narrow rocky niche, so that he looked +like the figure of a little <q>Joss</q> in the carved model +<pb n='285'/><anchor id='Pg285'/>of a Japanese temple. It was found necessary to pull +him vigorously by the legs, in order to straighten out +those members sufficiently for him to progress upon +them. However, he seemed to have more to say +about the sunset than anybody else, and his description +of the beauties thereof was so glowing and eloquent, +that the idea crossed our minds that possibly +some of the descriptions we had read in Alpine +writings of similar scenes might be as authentic as +that with which he favoured us. <q>A great point in +the Alps,</q> remarked the moralist, after he had been +securely fastened by a rope to a guide for fear we +should lose him again, so that he looked like a +dancing bear—<q>a great point in walking amongst the +Alps is that we learn to use our eyes and look around +us. I have observed that those who perambulate our +native flagstones appear perpetually to be absorbed in +the contemplation of what lies at their feet. Now +here, stimulated by the beauties around, man holds, +as he should do, his head erect, and steps out boldly.</q> +At this point a little delay was occasioned owing to +the abrupt disappearance of the speaker through a +crust of snow. Some curious rumblings below our +feet seemed to imply that he had descended to a considerable +depth, and was in great personal discomfort. +In the dim light we could scarcely see what had +actually happened, but concluded to pull vigorously at +the rope as the best means of getting our temporarily +<pb n='286'/><anchor id='Pg286'/>absent friend out of his difficulties. This we succeeded +in doing, and a strenuous haul on the cord +was rewarded by the sudden appearance of two boots +through the snow-crust at our feet—a phenomenon so +unexpected that we relaxed our efforts, with the result +that the boots immediately disappeared again. A +second attempt was more successful; an arm and a +leg this time came to the surface simultaneously, and +the moralist was delivered from the snowy recesses +broadside on. We rearranged his raiment, shook the +snow out of the creases of his clothes, tied a bath +towel round his head, which, for some obscure reason, +he had brought with him—the towel, not his head—and +harnessed him this time securely between two +members of the party. Possibly from the effects of +his misadventure, he remained silent for some time, +or his flow of conversation may have been hindered +by the fact that his supporters ran him violently down +steep places whenever he showed symptoms of commencing +a fresh dissertation. It was no easy task to +find the little hut in the darkness, and it was not +until after we had blundered about a good deal that +we caught sight of the beacon light, consisting of a +very cheap dip exhibited in the window, as a sign that +entertainment for man and beast might be found +within. The moralist, who was always to the fore +when the subject of refreshment was mentioned, discovered +a milking-stool, and drawing it in great +<pb n='287'/><anchor id='Pg287'/>triumph to the best place in front of the stove, sat +down on it, with the immediate result that he was +precipitated backwards into the ash-pan. There we +left him, as being a suitable place for repentance. +</p> + +<note place="margin">A banquet at the chalet</note> + +<p> +The rest of the party gathered for supper round +the festive board, which was rather uncertain on its +legs, and inclined to tip up. Owing to some miscarriage, +the larder of the cabane was not well stocked, +and all the entertainment that could be furnished +consisted of one bent-up little sausage, exceeding +black and dry, and a very large teapot. However, +there was plenty of fresh milk provided after a short +interval, though the latter article was not obtained +without considerable difficulty, and remonstrances +proceeding from an adjoining shed, probably due to +somnolence on the part of the animal from which the +supply was drawn. Presently a great commotion, as +of numerous bodies rolling down a steep ladder, was +heard, and there appeared at the door a large collection +of small shock-headed children, who gaped at +us in silent wonder. Anxious to ascertain the physical +effects that might be induced by the consumption +of the sausage, the moralist, who amongst his +many talents had apparently a turn for experimental +physiology, cut off a block and placed it in the open +mouth of the eldest of the children. This unexpected +favour led to the boy’s swallowing the morsel whole, +and he shortly afterwards retired with a somewhat +<pb n='288'/><anchor id='Pg288'/>pained expression of countenance; the other members +of the family followed shortly after in tears, in consequence +of the Italianised young lady, who possessed +a strong fund of human sympathy and a love +for the picturesque, having made an attempt to conciliate +their good-will by patting their respective heads, +and asking them their names in a conjectural <hi rend='italic'>patois</hi>. +We were now ready to start again, and demanded +of our hostess what there was to pay. This request +led her to go to the foot of the ladder, which represented +a staircase, and call out for the proprietor. A +little black-headed man in response instantly precipitated +himself down the steps, shot into the apartment, +and, without any preliminary calculation, named the +exact price. On receiving his money he scuttled away +again like a frightened rabbit, brought the change, +jerked it down on the table, and darted off again to +his slumbers. The whole transaction occupied some +five-and-twenty seconds. +</p> + +<p> +Part of the programme consisted in descending +back to Argentière by lantern-light, but the resources +of the establishment could only produce one battered +machine, and it was no easy task with this illumination +to keep the members of the party from straying +away from the narrow path. Indeed, several members +did part from the rest, curiously enough in pairs; +but before long we left the narrow defile, and as we +passed from under the shelter of the slope on our +<pb n='289'/><anchor id='Pg289'/>right, and could see across the Chamouni valley, we +came suddenly in view of the great mass of the +Aiguille Verte, so suddenly, indeed, that it made us +start back for the moment; for, illumined by a grey +ghostly light, the mountain seemed at first to hang right +over us. There is, perhaps, no finer view of the Aiguille +Verte to be obtained than from this point; certainly +no finer effects of light and shade than were granted +by the conditions under which we saw it, could have +been devised to show the peak off to the best advantage. +So long did we delay to dwell on the fairy-like +scene, that the vacuous youth, accompanied by the +young lady of varied accomplishments, caught us up +and joined us quite suddenly, to their exceeding confusion. +The youth, without being invited to do so, +explained, blushing violently the while, that they had +lost the path in the darkness, and had only been able +to regain the track by lighting a series of lucifer +matches—an entire fiction on his part, but condoned, +as evincing more readiness of wit than we had previously +given him credit for. We heard also that their +way had been barred by a swamp and a mountain +stream, which, like gossip, can have had no particular +origin. The young lady, mindful of the absence of +her preceptress and consequently heedless of grammar, +described the situation neatly as being <q>awfully bogs.</q> +</p> + +<note place="margin">The end of the journey</note> + +<p> +If the expedition had shown us no more than this +moonlight effect, the reward would have been ample. +<pb n='290'/><anchor id='Pg290'/>In truth, from first to last the expedition was one +which it would be hard to match for variety of interest +in all the sub-Alpine district. At Argentière we rejoined +the carriages, and found the horses just a +little more inclined for exertion than they had been in +the morning; their joy at going home seemed to be +tempered by the fact that they recognised that they +would inevitably be called upon to start from the +same point at no very distant period; and that to +return home was but to go back to the starting-point +for further laborious excursions. But their equine +tempers seemed thoroughly soured. The Italianised +young lady was taken in charge by her elder +sister, who had completed her education, and knew +consequently the hollowness of the world and the +folly of younger sisters’ flirtations, and securely +lodged in the landau. The youth, after an ineffectual +attempt to find a place in the same carriage, climbed +to the box seat of the other vehicle, and relieved his +feelings by cracking the driver’s whip with great +dexterity; in fact, we discovered that this was one of +his principal accomplishments. Not the least satisfactory +part of the climb, in the estimation of some +members of the party, was the fact that the moralist +had lost his note-book during his imprisonment in the +crevasse. +</p> + +</div><div type="chapter" n="9" rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb n='291'/><anchor id='Pg291'/> +<index index="toc" level1="IX. A fragment"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="IX. A fragment"/> +<head>CHAPTER IX.</head> + +<head type="sub">A FRAGMENT</head> + +<argument><p> +An unauthentic MS.—Solitude on the mountain: its advantages to +the historian of the Alps—A rope walk—The crossing of the +Schrund—A novel form of avalanche and an airy situation—A +towering obstacle—The issue of the expedition in the balance—A +very narrow escape—The final rush—Victory!—The perils of +the descent—I plunge <hi rend='italic'>in medias res</hi>—A flying descent. +</p></argument> + +<p> +The following account is somewhat of a puzzle. It +appears to contain certain facts of so startling a +nature, that the ascent to which they refer must unquestionably +have been of a very exciting character. +The details are not so wholly unlike descriptions +which have passed the searching discrimination of +editors, in publications relating more or less to Alpine +matters, as to warrant the assumption that they are +fabrications. They do not appear, as far as the writer +can ascertain, to have been seen in print hitherto; +but as all Alpine writings relate but rigid matters of +fact and actual occurrences, there seems no objection +to publishing the manuscript, notwithstanding that its +authorship is only conjectural. It is unfortunate that +its fragmentary nature leaves one somewhat in doubt +as to the actual peak to which the description refers. +<pb n='292'/><anchor id='Pg292'/>It has been suggested by a plausible commentator, +judging from internal evidence and the style of +writing, that the manuscript of which the fragment +consists formed part of an account originally intended +for some work not published in this country, or even, +possibly, was primarily designed to fill the columns of +one of our own daily newspapers during the silly +season. +</p> + +<note place="margin">I rise equal to the occasion</note> + +<p> +<q>... The day was cloudless, serene, and bright. +Only in the immediate foreground did the heavy +banks, betokening a <hi rend='italic'>tourmente</hi>, sweep around with +relentless fury. Far above, the towering crags of the +majestic peak pierced the sky. How to get there! +And alone! The situation was sublime; yet more, it +was fascinating; once again, it was enthralling. Far +below lay the prostrate bodies of my companions, +worn out, wearied, gorged with <hi rend='italic'>petit vin</hi> and sardines. +A thought flashed across my mind. Why should I +not scale alone these heights which had hitherto +defied the most consummate <hi rend='italic'>intrépides</hi>? In a +moment the resolution was taken. For me, for me +alone, should the laurel wreaths be twined. For me +should the booming cannon, charged with fifty +centimes’ worth of uncertain powder, betoken victory. +For me alone should the assortment of cheap flags +which had done duty on many previous occasions of +rejoicing, be dragged forth. What was the expense +to a hero when the glow of so magnificent an +achieve<pb n='293'/><anchor id='Pg293'/>ment should swell his heart and loosen his purse-strings? +The account might reach a sum of two and a +half, nay, even five francs; but what of that? I girded +myself with the trusty rope, and, attaching one end +lightly to a projecting crag twenty feet above, hauled +myself in a moment on to the eminence. Involuntarily +I shot a glance downwards. The scene +was fearful—one to make the most resolute +quail. But there was no time for thought, still +less for accurate description. A fearfully steep +couloir, flanked by two yawning bergschrunds, +stretched away horizontally right and left. How to +cross them! It was the work of a moment. Unfastening +the knot in the rope above me, I threw +myself, heart and soul, into the work. Where heart +and soul are, there must, in the ante-mortem state, be +the body also. This is logic. Thus I entered the +chasm. Battling desperately with the huge icicles +that threatened me at every step, I forced my way +through the snow bridge and breathed again. The +first schrund was accomplished. Next the rope was +fastened to my trusty axe, and with an herculean +effort I threw it far above me; fortunately it caught +in a notch, and in a few seconds I had climbed, with +the agility of a monkey, up the tightened cord. +Goodness gracious! (<hi rend='italic'>sapristi!</hi>) what do I hear? A +sudden roar below betokened an immediate danger. +Horror! sweeping and roaring up the slope from the +<pb n='294'/><anchor id='Pg294'/>glacier beneath, I beheld a huge avalanche. I will +conceal nothing. I own that the appalling situation +and its terribly dramatic nature forced me to ejaculate +a cry. I do not claim originality for it. I said, <q>Oh! +my mother!</q> (<hi rend='italic'>Oh! ma mère!</hi>) This relieved me. +Now was the time indeed for coolness. Fortunate, +most fortunate, that I was alone. Thrusting the +spike of the axe into the solid rock face like the spear +of Ithuriel, in the twinkling of an eye I had fastened +one end of the rope to the projecting head of the axe, +and the other to my waist, and launched myself over +the ridge into space. Fortunate, most fortunate +again, as in the hurry of the moment I had attached +the rope below my own centre of gravity, that I was +light-headed. Had this not been the case, assuredly +I should have dangled feet uppermost over the abyss. +Not a moment too soon. The avalanche dashed up the +slope, grinding the axe to powder, but by good luck +entangling the rope between the massive blocks and +carrying it up, with myself attached, nearly 100 +metres—I should say 300 feet—above where I had +previously stood. I had accomplished in a moment +what might have cost hours of toil. Again it was +sublime. The thought crossed my mind that the +sublime often approaches the ridiculous. But the +rocks, previously broken up, had been ground by the +sweeping avalanche into a surface smooth as polished +steel. How to descend these again! Banish the +<pb n='295'/><anchor id='Pg295'/>thought! The mountain was not yet climbed. +Upwards, past yawning séracs, towering bergschrunds, +slippery crevasses, gaping arêtes, I made my way. +For a few hundred feet I bounded upwards with great +rapidity. Despite the rugged nature of the rocks +everything went smoothly. Of a sudden a terrible +obstacle was presented to my gaze. I felt that all +my hopes seemingly were dashed. A stupendous +cleft, riving the mountain’s side to an unfathomable +depth, barred further progress. From top to +bottom both sides of the chasm overhung; and far +below, where they joined, the angle of meeting was +so sharp that I felt that I must infallibly be +wedged in without hope of extrication if I fell. +For a few moments I hesitated, but only for a few. +Close by was a tower of rock, smooth and vertical, +some twelve feet high—the height of two men, in fact. +No handhold save on the top. This was but a simple +matter. Had any one else been with me, I should +have stood on his shoulders; as it was I stood on my +own head. Thus I climbed to the summit of the +pointed obelisk of rock. Exactly opposite, on the +farther side of the cleft, was a similar rock cone, but +the distance was too great to spring across. I was in +a dilemma—on one horn of it, in fact; how to get +to the other! I adopted an ingenious plan. Taking +my trusty axe, I placed the pointed end in a little +notch in the rock, and then, with herculean strength, +<pb n='296'/><anchor id='Pg296'/>bent the staff and wedged the head also into a notch. +The trusty axe was now bent like a bow. Again I +hesitated before trusting myself to the bow; in fact, +it was long before I drew it. But a former experience +stood me in good stead. Once before, driven by a +less powerful impetus—merely that of a human leg—I +had flown through a greater distance. I made up +my mind, and, summoning all my fortitude, placed +my back against the arc and, lightly touching one +end, released the spring. Instantly I felt myself +propelled straight into mid-air, and before I had time +to realise the success of my scheme, was flung against +the pinnacle on the opposite side and embraced it. +What were my feelings on finding that this huge +pinnacle had no more stability than a ninepin, and +as my weight came on to it slowly heeled over! Nor +was this all. Slowly, like the pendulum of a metronome, +it rolled back again, and I found to my horror +that I was clinging to the apex of the rock, and +dangling right over the chasm! I cannot recall that +in all my adventures I had ever been in a precisely +similar situation. However, a hasty calculation satisfied +me that the rocking crag must again right itself. +As I expected, it did so, and as the pinnacle of rock +swung back once more to the perpendicular I sprang +from it with all my force. The impetus landed me safe, +but the crag toppled over into the abyss. Here I noted +an interesting scientific fact. Taking out my watch, +<pb n='297'/><anchor id='Pg297'/>I was able to estimate, by the depth of the cleft, the +height I had already climbed. <hi rend='italic'>The boulder took a +minute and a half in falling before it reached anywhere.</hi> +I own that the escape was a narrow one, and even my +unblushing cheek paled a little at the thought of it. +But I could not be far now, I hoped, from the summit; +and, indeed, the condition of a dead bird which it so +happened lay on the rocks—in a passive sense—convinced +me that the summit of the lofty peak was +close at hand. But few obstacles now remained. +Another step or two revealed a glassy unbroken rock +cone leading to the summit. It seemed impossible at +first to surmount it, but my resources were not yet at +an end. Dragging off my boots, I tore out with my +teeth the long nails and drove them in one after +another. By this means I ascended the first half of +the final peak; but then the supply of nails was +exhausted, and I felt that time would not permit me +to draw out the lower nails and place them in succession +above the others. Luckily I still carried with +me a flask of the execrable <hi rend='italic'>petit vin</hi> supplied by Mons. +—— of the inn below. I applied a little to the rock. +The effect was magical. In a moment the hard face +was softened to the consistence of cheese, and with +my trusty axe I had no difficulty in scraping out +small steps. The worst was now over. Just as the +shades of night were gathering softly around, I +stepped with the proud consciousness of victory on to +<pb n='298'/><anchor id='Pg298'/>the very highest point. This indeed was sublime. +The toil of years was accomplished; it seemed almost +a dream. Nerved to frenzy, with a mighty sweep of +the axe I struck off a huge block from the summit to +carry away as a token of conquest, and planting the +weapon in the hole, tore off garment after garment to +make a suitable flag; only did I desist on reflecting +that it would become barely possible for me to descend +if I acted thus. Intoxicated with victory, I shouted +and sang for a while, and then turned to the descent. +The night was fast closing in, but this mattered not, +for I made light of all the obstacles, and they were so +numerous that I succeeded perfectly by this means in +seeing my way. Faster and faster I sped along, +descending with ease over the blocks and fragments of +the morning’s avalanche. Now and again the descent +was assisted by fastening the rope securely to projecting +crags, and then allowing myself to slide down to +its full length. Then I went up again, untied the rope, +fastened it anew below, and repeated the manœuvre. +Thus at midnight I reached the edge of the cliff, at +the foot of which my companions had been left in the +morning. I feared they might be anxious for my +safety, the more especially that I had not yet paid +them for their services. Peering over the edge of the +vertical precipice into the murky darkness, I called +out. There was no response. Then I said <q>Pst,</q> and +tapped the glassy slope with my pocket knife. Even +<pb n='299'/><anchor id='Pg299'/>this plan failed to attract their attention. I shouted +with still more force. Finally, standing up on the +edge of the cliff, I sent forth a shout so terribly loud +that it must have waked even a sleeping adder. A +fatal error! for the reverberation of my voice was +echoed back with such fearful force from a neighbouring +crag that the shock struck me backwards, and in +a moment I was flying through mid-air—to annihilation.</q> +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb" rend="stars: 6"/> + +<p> +<q>There is a blank in this narrative which I can +never fill up. This only do I know; that when I +came again to my senses, I was warmly ensconced in +a blanket, whilst my companions stood around in a +circle shivering, as they gazed at me with amazement. +Their account, which I can scarcely credit, was that +as they were engaged in stretching out and shaking a +blanket preparatory to spreading their bed for the +night, an apparently heaven-sent form had descended +from above into the very middle of it; the shock tore +the blanket from their grasp, and in a twinkling I lay +wrapt up safe and comfortable at their feet.</q> +</p> +<note place="margin">A highly coloured account</note> +<p> +Such is the fragment. It has been thought better +to present it as far as possible in its original form, +and without any editing. That the account is a little +highly coloured perhaps in parts may be allowed, but +some licence may legitimately be accorded to an +author who is no empty dreamer, but has evidently +experienced some rather exciting episodes. +</p> + +</div><div type="chapter" n="10" rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb n='300'/><anchor id='Pg300'/> +<index index="toc" level1="X. The future of mountaineering"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="X. The future of mountaineering"/> +<head>CHAPTER X.</head> + +<head type="sub">THE FUTURE OF MOUNTAINEERING</head> + +<argument><p> +Mountaineers and their critics—The early days of the Alpine Club—The +founders of mountaineering—The growth of the amusement—Novelty +and exploration—The formation of centres—Narrowing +of the field of mountaineering—The upward limit of +mountaineering—De Saussure’s experience—Modern development +of climbing—Mr. Whymper’s experience—Mr. Graham’s +experience—The ascent of great heights—Mr. Grove’s views—Messrs. +Coxwell and Glaisher’s balloon experiences—Reasons +for dissenting from Mr. Glaisher’s views—The possibility of +ascending Mount Everest—Physiological aspect of the question—Acclimatisation +to great heights—The direction in which +mountaineering should be developed—The results that may be +obtained—Chamouni a century hence—A Rip van Winkle in +the Pennine Alps—The dangers of mountaineering—Conclusion. +</p></argument> +<note place="margin">The critics</note> +<p> +From time to time, when some accident has happened +in the Alps, the press and the public have been +pleased to take such unfortunate occurrence as a text, +and to preach serious sermons to mountaineers. We +have been called hard names in our time; we have +been accused of fostering an amusement of no earthly-practical +good, and one which has led to <q>miserable</q> +waste of valuable life. Gentle expressions of animadversion, +such as <q>criminal folly,</q> <q>reckless venture, +which has no better purpose than the gratification +of a caprice or the indulgence of a small ambition,</q> <q>a +<pb n='301'/><anchor id='Pg301'/>subject of humiliating interest,</q> and the like, have +at times been freely used. But it is well known to +authors and to dramatists that criticisms of a nature +known as <q>smashing</q> are not, on the whole, always +to be deplored, and are occasionally the best to enhance +the success of the work. The novel or play, however +unreservedly condemned by the reviewer, has got +some chance of living if it be hinted that some of the +situations in it are a little <hi rend='italic'>risquées</hi>; and to a great +many the idea seems constantly present that mountaineering +owes its principal attraction to the element +of risk inseparable from its pursuit. As an +absolute matter of fact such is not the case. Apart +from this, however, mountaineers may be thankful +that the critics in question have, when they noticed +our doings at all, condemned us very heartily indeed, +and thundered forth their own strictures on +our folly in sonorous terms; in fact, attacks of this +nature have by no means impaired the vitality of +such associations as Alpine clubs, but rather, like +attacks of distemper in dogs, have increased their +value. +</p> + +<p> +It would be easy enough, from the mountaineer’s +point of view, and in a work which, at +the best, can interest only those who have some +sympathy with climbing as a pure pastime, to pass +over these hard words, and to reckon them as merely +the vapourings of envious mortals not initiated into +<pb n='302'/><anchor id='Pg302'/>the mysteries of the mountaineering craft; but such +criticisms may lead or perhaps reflect public opinion, +and are not, therefore, to be treated lightly. It might +be held that for any notice to be taken at all is complimentary, +and we might seek shelter in the epigrammatic +saying that he who has no enemies has no +character; that though hope may spring eternal in +the human breast, jealousy is a trait still more constantly +found. But this line of argument is not one +to be adopted. The <hi rend='italic'>tu quoque</hi> style of defence is not +one well calculated to gain a verdict. No doubt the +question has been treated often enough before, and +in discussing it the writer may seem but to be doing +what nowadays the climber is forced to do in the Alps—namely, +wander again, perhaps ramble, over ground +that has been well trodden many times before. But the +conditions have changed greatly since mountaineering +first became a popular pastime, and since the first editions +of <q>Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers</q> were rapidly sold +out. It is, the writer fears, only too true in these +latter days that mountaineers may be classified as Past +and Present. Whether a third class may be added of +<q>the Future</q> is a question—to be answered, I hope, +in the affirmative. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Growth of the amusement</note> + +<p> +The Alpine Club was founded in 1857 by a few +ardent devotees to what was then an entirely new +form of pastime. The original members of that +club could never have even dreamed of the wide +<pb n='303'/><anchor id='Pg303'/>popularity mountaineering was destined to acquire, +or the influence that the establishment of the Alpine +Club was to have on it; and, like the fish in an +aquarium, they can hardly have known what they +were in for. In the present day there are Alpine +clubs in almost every country in Europe, and in some +countries there are several, numbering their members +in some cases by thousands. Nor is it only on the +continent of Europe that there are mountaineering +clubs. Not that the writer ventures to assert that +every member of this multitude is devoted to the high +Alps, or that it is in the least degree essential to +climb high and difficult mountains in order to learn +the fascination of their natural beauties. It may be +pointed out, however, that the <q>miserable waste of +valuable life</q> is in the greatest part not on the great +peaks and passes, but on little hills. Every year we +read of accidents on mountains such as the Faulhorn, +the Monte Salvatore in the Alps, or Snowdon, Helvellyn +and the like in our own country. Possibly these +disasters might never have taken place had the experience +of mountaineering craft gained in high +regions been properly appreciated and utilised. The +good surgeon is he who, utilising all his own and all +his predecessors’ experience, recognises, and makes +provision against, all the risks that may conceivably +be involved in the most trifling operation he may be +called upon to perform; and holiday ramblers in our +<pb n='304'/><anchor id='Pg304'/>own land and in sub-Alpine regions might, not without +advantage, profit by the example. +</p> +<note place="margin">Novelty and exploration</note> +<p> +Five-and-twenty years ago in Switzerland there +were numberless heights untrodden, passes uncrossed, +and regions unexplored. Then, moreover, there were +comparatively but few to cross the passes or climb +the mountains; but those few did mighty deeds. +Peak after peak fell before them, while slowly but +surely they opened up new regions and brought unexpected +beauties to light. In those days climbing +as an art was but in its infancy, restricted to a few +amateurs specially qualified to pursue it, and to a very +limited number of guides—merely those, in fact (not +such a numerous class as people seem generally to +imagine), who had made chamois-hunting one of the +principal objects of their lives. Gradually the art +became more developed, and with the increase of +power thus acquired came increase of confidence. From +the fact that the training in the mountaineering art +was gradual, it was necessarily thorough—a fact that +a good many climbers would do well to bear in mind +in these latter days. Then, of course, the charm of +novelty, so dear to the mountaineer, was seldom +absent; he could strike out right or left and find +virgin soil; but in quest of novelty search had to be +made before long in remote regions. It followed +that exploration was not limited, and the early +pioneers of mountaineering could, and did learn more +<pb n='305'/><anchor id='Pg305'/>of the geography and varied beauties of the Alps in +a single season than their followers do, in the present +day, in five or six. +</p> + +<p> +After a while the fashion of mountaineering altered +sensibly, and a strong conservatism sprang up. +Certain districts became more and more frequented; +certain peaks acquired special popularity, either because +they were conveniently placed and ready of +access; or because there was a certain touch of +romance about them, as in the case of the Matterhorn; +or because they had acquired the reputation +of being difficult, and it was thought that a +successful ascent would stamp the climber at once as +a skilful person and a very daring creature. Thus +places like Zermatt, Grindelwald, Chamouni, and the +Æggischhorn became the great centres of mountaineering, +and have remained so ever since. Independent +exploration gradually gave way to the +charm of meeting others bent on the same pursuit +of climbing; but this feeling was not without its +drawbacks, and tended to check what has been called +cosmopolitanism in mountaineering. How few, even +among those who visit the Alps regularly, know +anything whatever of such large, important, and interesting +districts as the Silvretta group, the Rheinwald +group, or the Lepontine Alps! while districts +like Zermatt are thronged and crowded, and the +mountains absolutely done to death. Not that it +<pb n='306'/><anchor id='Pg306'/>is hard to understand how this narrowing of the +field of mountaineering has been brought about. +There comes a time of life to most men when they +find more pleasure in meeting old friends than in +making new acquaintances; and the same feeling +would appear to extend to the mountains. +</p> + +<p> +It must be confessed here that the writer is disposed +to look upon mountaineering in the Alps, in the +sense in which it has hitherto been known, as a +pastime that will before long become extinct. In +some soils trees grow with extraordinary rapidity and +vigour, but do not strike their roots very deep, and so +are prone to early decay. Still, it does not follow +that, even should these pessimist forebodings prove +true, and climbing be relegated to the limbo of archaic +pursuits, the Alps will not attract their thousands as +they have done for many years. The dearth of +novelty is sometimes held to be the principal cause +that will eventually lead to the decay of mountaineering. +There is a reasonable probability, however, to +judge from the Registrar-General’s reports, that the +world will still be peopled some time hence, and +possibly a generation will then arise of mountaineering +revivalists who, never having tasted the flavour +of novelty in Alpine climbing, will not perceive that +its absence is any loss. Yet in the Alps alone many +seem to forget that, while they are exhausting in +every detail a few spots, there are numerous and +<pb n='307'/><anchor id='Pg307'/>varied expeditions of similar nature still to be accomplished, +the scenes of which lie within a few hours of +London. It is of course only to mountaineering as +a semi-fashionable craze that these remarks apply. +The knowledge of the art, acquired primarily in the +Alps, which has led to the development of mountaineering +as a science will not be wasted, and the +training acquired in holiday expeditions, when amusement +or the regaining of health was the principal +object, can be turned to valuable practical account +elsewhere. So shall there be a future for mountaineering. +No doubt but few may be able to find the +opportunity, unless indeed they make it somewhat of +a profession, of exploring the great mountainous +districts still almost untouched—such, for instance, as +the Himalayas. But it is in some such direction as +this that the force of the stream, somewhat tending +to dry up in its original channel, will, it may be hoped, +spread in the future. +</p> + +<note place="margin">The upward limit</note> + +<p> +It has already been shown, by the results of many +modern expeditions, that the old views that obtained +with respect to the upward limit of mountaineering +must, to say the least, be considerably modified. +From early times the question of the effects of rarefied +air in high regions on mountaineers has attracted +attention. As a matter of fact the subject is still +barely in its infancy. A few remarks on this point +<pb n='308'/><anchor id='Pg308'/>may not perhaps be thought too technical, for they +bear, I hope, on the mountaineering of the future. +</p> + +<p> +It is matter of notoriety that in these days travellers +seem less subject to discomfort in the high Alps than +in former times. De Saussure, for instance, in the +account of his famous ascent of Mont Blanc in 1787, +speaks a good deal of the difficulty of respiration. At +his bivouac on the Plateau, at an elevation of 13,300 +feet, the effects of the rarefied air were much commented +on; and these remarks are the more valuable, +inasmuch as De Saussure was a man of science and +a most acute observer; while his account, a thing +too rare in these days, is characterised by extreme +modesty of description. The frequency of the respirations, +he observed, which ensued on any exertion +caused great fatigue. Nowadays, however, pedestrians, +often untrained, may be seen daily ascending +at a very much faster pace than De Saussure seems +to have gone, and yet the effects are scarcely felt. +No one now expects much to suffer from this cause, +and no one does. In recent times we hear accounts +of ascents of mountains like Elbruz, 18,526 feet, by +Mr. Grove and others; of Cotopaxi, 19,735 feet, and +Chimborazo, 20,517<note place="foot">This is Mr. Edward Whymper’s measurement. Humboldt, as +quoted by Mr. Whymper, gave 21,460 feet as the height. (<hi rend='italic'>Alpine +Journal</hi>, vol. x. p. 442.)</note> feet, by Mr. Whymper; and the +most recent, and by far the most remarkable, of +<pb n='309'/><anchor id='Pg309'/>Kabru in the Himalayas, about 24,000 feet, by Mr. +Graham. In all these expeditions the travellers +spent nights in bivouacs far above the level of the +Grand Plateau where De Saussure encamped. We +cannot suppose that in the Caucasus, the Andes, or +the Himalayas the air differs much from that of the +Alps with regard to its rarefaction effects on travellers. +In fact, the Alpine traveller would in this respect +probably be much better off, for the general conditions +surrounding him would be more like those to +which he was accustomed. He would not have, for +instance, to contend with the effects of changed or +meagre diet or unaccustomed climate. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Mr. Grove’s views</note> + +<p> +Mr. F. C. Grove, a very high authority on such a +point, in his description of the ascent of Elbruz, in +the course of some remarks on the rarity of the air, +states his belief that at some height or another, less than +that of the loftiest mountain, there must be a limit at +which no amount of training and good condition will +enable a man to live; and he says, <q>It may be taken +for granted that no human being could walk to the +top of Mount Everest.</q><note place="foot"><hi rend='italic'>The Frosty Caucasus</hi>, by F. C. Grove, p. 236.</note> This was written in 1875; +but a great deal has happened since then, though the +same opinion is still very generally entertained. But +with this opinion I cannot coincide at all, for reasons +that appear to me logically conclusive. In the first +place, a party of three, composed of Mr. Graham, +<pb n='310'/><anchor id='Pg310'/>Herr Emil Boss, and the Swiss guide Kauffman, have +ascended more than 5,000 feet higher than the top of +Elbruz, and none of the party experienced any serious +effect, or, indeed, apparently any effect at all other +than those naturally incidental to severe exertion. It +must be admitted that one result of their expedition +was to prove, tolerably conclusively, that Mount +Everest is not the highest mountain in the world. +Still, until it is officially deposed, it may be taken, for +argument’s sake, as the ultimate point. Now, it +would seem to be beyond doubt that a man, being +transported to a height much greater than Mount +Everest, can still live. In Messrs. Coxwell and +Glaisher’s famous balloon ascent from Wolverhampton +on September 5, 1862, described in <q>Travels +in the Air,</q> it was computed that the travellers +reached a height of nearly 37,000 feet,<note place="foot"><hi rend='italic'>Travels in the Air</hi>, edited by James Glaisher, F.R.S., p. 57 +<anchor id="corr310"/><corr sic="2nd">(2nd</corr> ed.).</note> and this +in less than an hour from the time of leaving the +earth. Deduct 5,000 feet from this computation, to +allow for possible error, and we still have a height left +of 32,000 feet, an elevation, that is, very considerably +greater than the summit of Mount Everest—possibly +a greater elevation than the summit of any mountain. +Life then, it is proved, can be sustained at such a height, +and the point that remains for consideration is whether +the necessary exertion of walking or climbing to the +same height would render the actual ascent impossible. +</p> + +<pb n='311'/><anchor id='Pg311'/> + +<note place="margin">Mr. Glaisher’s experiences</note> + +<p> +Since the days of De Saussure some 8,000 feet +have been added to the height to which the possibility +of ascending has been proved. It seems to me +unreasonable to assume that another 5,000 feet may +not yet be added, and arbitrary to conclude that +at some point higher than Kabru but lower than +Mount Everest the limit of human endurance must +necessarily be reached. Mr. Glaisher himself does +not appear to think that, from his experience, any +such ascent as that we have been considering would +be possible for an Alpine traveller (<hi rend='italic'>op. cit.</hi> p. 21 and +elsewhere). But, with every deference to so great an +authority, a few considerations may be submitted +which tend most seriously to invalidate his conclusions +and opinions, and which may serve to show also that +the effects of rarefied air probably differ more widely +in the two cases of the aëronaut and the mountaineer +than is generally supposed. Writing in 1871, Mr. +Glaisher says,<note place="foot"><hi rend='italic'>Op. cit.</hi> p. 9.</note> <q>At a height of three miles I never +experienced any annoyance or discomfort; yet there +is no ascent I think of Mont Blanc in which great +inconvenience and severe <hi rend='italic'>pain</hi> have not been felt at a +height of 13,000 feet; but then, as before remarked, +this is an elevation attained only after two days of +excessive toil.</q> Mr. Glaisher is here referring chiefly +to Dr. Hamel’s ascent of Mont Blanc, and would +seem apparently to be unaware that, long before he +wrote, the ascent of Mont Blanc, from Chamouni and +<pb n='312'/><anchor id='Pg312'/>back to the same place, had been accomplished within +twenty-four hours. In 1873, if my memory serves +me right, Mr. Passingham started from Chamouni, +ascended the mountain, and returned to his hotel in +a little less than twenty hours.<note place="foot">I understand that the expedition has since been accomplished +in a much shorter time.</note> Compare such an +ascent as this—not by any means an isolated +instance—with De Saussure’s experience, and when +we consider how remarkable has been the <anchor id="corr312"/><corr sic="developmen">development</corr> +of mountaineering in this direction, we may surely hold +that to fix at present any absolute limit is unduly +arbitrary. Further, the ascents of Chimborazo and +the other mountains named above have all been +accomplished since Mr. Glaisher wrote. Mr. Glaisher +states that the aëronaut may acclimatise himself to +great heights by repeated ascents; but how much +more may the mountaineer then hope to do so! The +aëronaut necessarily makes ascents rapidly<note place="foot">In Messrs. Coxwell and Glaisher’s ascent from Wolverhampton +the balloon when at the height of 29,000 feet was mounting at the +rate of 1,000 feet a minute.</note> and at +rare intervals. The mountaineer can acclimatise +himself to high regions by a constant and <anchor id="corr312a"/><corr sic="gradua">gradual</corr> +process, a method obviously better calculated to extend +the limits of his endurance. +</p> + +<p> +Of course I am only discussing the actual possibility, +not entering into the question for a moment +of whether it is worth while to do it. It may be that +<pb n='313'/><anchor id='Pg313'/>to attempt an ascent of Mount Everest would prove +almost as rash an undertaking as an endeavour to +swim through the Niagara rapids—that is, if the +mountaineering difficulties are so great as to make +the two instances parallel. Two points have to be +considered: one, that, granted the desirability of +making such an ascent, we do not yet fully know the +best manner of undertaking it; and another, that we +are still very ignorant as to the physiological effects of +rarefied air on the human frame.<note place="foot">I am aware of M. Paul Bert’s researches; but these questions +are not to be settled in the laboratory.</note> +</p> + +<note place="margin">Mountain acclimatisation</note> + +<p> +With regard to the first point, we know indeed +this much—that, granted good condition, a man can +<q>acclimatise</q> himself to great heights, and when +so acclimatised he can undergo much more exertion +in very high regions with much less effect. The +experience of Mr. Whymper in the Andes, and of +Mr. Graham and others in the Himalayas, has shown +this conclusively enough. Let a man sleep at a +height, say, of 18,000 feet, and then ascend from that +point another 3,000 or 4,000 feet; he may possibly +feel the effects to be so great that an attempt to +sleep again at the latter height would render him +incapable of exertion the next day, as far as an +ascent is concerned. Let him descend till he can +bivouac, say at 20,000 feet, and then again try, +starting afresh. After a while he would be able to +<pb n='314'/><anchor id='Pg314'/>accomplish still more than at his first attempt; and so +on, until he reached the summit. But even supposing +that no amount of acclimatisation enables him +to accomplish his end, he has other weapons in his +armoury. +</p> +<note place="margin">Ascent of Mount Everest</note> +<p> +The second point mentioned above is that the +physiological effects of rarefied air on the human +economy are but little known; were these understood +the resources of science might be called in to obviate +them. It may be said that no amount of science will +obviate the very simple fact that exertion causes +fatigue, but the answer is that we have no real idea +of all the causes which lead to this fatigue. This is +not the place to speculate on a somewhat abstruse +and unquestionably complicated physiological problem, +but the direction in which the question may be +approached from the scientific side is worthy of being +pointed out. This much may be said, however, that +when we talk of strong heart and strong lungs in +connection with the question of the possibility of +ascending on foot to the greatest altitudes, we are +only, from the physiological point of view, taking into +account one or two factors, and perhaps not the most +important ones. The cavillers may be reminded +that physiology is not and never will become a +finite science. To my mind at least, as far as +human endurance is concerned, it would be no more +surprising to me to hear that a man had succeeded +<pb n='315'/><anchor id='Pg315'/>in walking up Mount Everest than to know that a +man can succeed in standing an arctic climate while +on a sledging expedition. Objections like the difficulty +of arranging for a supply of food, of expense, of risk, +and so forth, are not taken into account—they are +really beside the question: they have not proved insuperable +obstacles in the case of arctic exploration; +they will not prove insurmountable to the ambitious +mountaineer we are contemplating. I do not for a +moment say that it would be wise to ascend Mount +Everest, but I believe most firmly that it is humanly +possible to do so; and, further, I feel sure that, even +in our own time, perhaps, the truth of these views will +receive material corroboration. Mount Everest itself +may offer insuperable mountaineering obstacles, but in +the unknown, unseen district to the north there may +be peaks of equal height presenting no more technical +difficulties than Mont Blanc or Elbruz. +</p> +<note place="margin">The value of mountaineering</note> +<p> +From the purely athletic point of view, then, the +mountaineering experience which has been gained +almost exclusively in the Alps may, by a still further +development in the future, enable the climber so to +develop the art that he may reach the highest elevation +on this world’s crust; and he may do this without +running undue risk. <hi rend='italic'>Cui bono?</hi> it may be asked; +and it is nearly as hard to answer the question as it +is to explain to the supine and unaspiring person the +good that may be expected to accrue to humanity by +<pb n='316'/><anchor id='Pg316'/>reaching the North Pole; yet the latter project, albeit +to some it seems like a struggle of man against physical +forces which make or mar worlds, is one that is held +to be right and proper to be followed. At the least +an observer, even of limited powers, may reasonably +be expected, supposing he accomplished such a feat +as the ascent of Mount Everest, to bring back results +of equal scientific value with the arctic traveller, while +the purely geographical information he should gain +would have fiftyfold greater practical value. The +art and science of mountaineering has been learned +and developed in the Alps, and the acquirement of +this learning has been a pleasure to many. If the +holiday nature of mountaineering should in the future +be somewhat dropped, and if a few of those who +follow should take up the more serious side, and make +what has been a pastime into a profession (and why +should not some do so? That which is worth doing +at all is worth developing to the utmost possible limit), +good will come, unless it be argued that there is no +gain in extending geographical knowledge; and no +advantage in rectifying surveys and rendering them as +accurate as possible. As has been remarked by Mr. +Douglas Freshfield, the advantage of including in +survey parties, such as are still engaged on our Indian +frontier, the services of some who have made mountaineering +a branch to be learnt in their profession, +would be very distinct. Work done in the Alps +<pb n='317'/><anchor id='Pg317'/>would, in this direction, perhaps, bear the best fruit +and reap the highest practical value which it might +be hoped to attain. The value would be real. The +search after truth, whether it be in the fields of +natural science, of geography, or its to-be-adopted +sister orography, can never fail to be right and good +and beneficial. Enthusiasm all this! you say. +Granted freely. Without some enthusiasm and +energy the world would cease to turn, and the retarding +section of mankind would be triumphant, +save that they would be too languid to realise the +victory of their principles. +</p> + +<p> +But still, if properly qualified men are to be forthcoming +to meet such a want, which undoubtedly +seems to exist, the old training-ground must not be +deserted; the playground of Europe must be regarded +in relation to serious work in the same light that the +playing-fields of Eton were regarded by one who was +somewhat of an authority. The Great Duke’s remark +is too well known to need quotation. English folk +may find it hard to hold their own against their +near relations in athletic pursuits, such as cricket +and sculling, but in mountaineering they undoubtedly +lead, and will continue to do so. In one phase indeed +of the pursuit their supremacy is menaced. In the +matter of recognising the practical value to be obtained +from mountaineering in surveying and the like, they are +already behind other countries. The roll of honorary +<pb n='318'/><anchor id='Pg318'/>members of the Alpine Club comprises a list of men, +most of whom have utilised their mountaineering +experience to good purpose in advancing scientific +exploration. In this department it is to be hoped +that we shall not suffer ourselves to be outstripped, +nor allow a store of valuable and laboriously acquired +experience to remain wasted. The threatening cloud +may pass off; the future of Alpine mountaineering +may not prove to be so gloomy as it sometimes seems +to the writer in danger of gradually becoming. The +depression is, possibly, only temporary, and a natural +consequence of reaction; and the zigzagging line on +the chart, though it may never perhaps rise again to +the point it once marked, yet may keep well at the +normal—better, perhaps, at such a level than at fever +heat. The old cry that we know so well on the +mountains, that meets always with a ready thrill +of response, may acquire a wider significance, and +men will be found to answer to the familiar call of +<q>Vorwärts, immer vorwärts!</q> +</p> + +<p> +After all, a century hence the mountaineering +centres of to-day will perhaps still attract as they do +now. It may be possible to get to Chamouni without +submitting to the elaborately devised discomfort of +the present Channel passage, and without the terrors +of asphyxiation in the carriages of the Chemin de Fer +du Nord. Surely the charm of the mountains must +always draw men to the Alps, even though the glaciers +<pb n='319'/><anchor id='Pg319'/>may have shrunk up and sunk down, though places +like Arolla and the Grimsel may have become thriving +towns, or radical changes such as a drainage system +at Chamouni have been instituted. If the glaciers do +shrink, there will be all the more scope for the rock +climber and the more opportunity of perfecting an art +which has already been so much developed. +</p> + +<note place="margin">An Alpine Rip van Winkle</note> + +<p> +A Rip van Winkle of our day, waking up in that +epoch of the future, would for certain find much that +was unaltered. The same types of humanity would +be around him. Conceive this somnolent hero of +fiction, clad in a felt wideawake that had once been +white, in knickerbockers and Norfolk jacket, of which +the seams had at one time held together, supporting +his bent frame and creaking joints on a staff with +rusted spike and pick. He descends laboriously +from a vehicle that had jolted impartially generations +before him (for the carriages of the valley are as little +liable to wear out, in the eyes of their proprietors, as +the <q>wonderful one-hoss shay</q>). He finds himself +on a summer evening by the Hôtel de Ville at +Chamouni, and facing the newly erected Opera-house. +He looks with wondering eyes around. A youth +(great-great-great-great-grandson of Jacques Balmat) +approaches and waits respectfully by his side, ready to +furnish information. +</p> + +<p> +<q>Why these flags and these rejoicings?</q> the old +man asks. +</p> + +<pb n='320'/><anchor id='Pg320'/> + +<p> +<q>To celebrate the tercentenary of the first ascent +of Mont Blanc,</q> the boy answers. +</p> + +<p> +The veteran gazes around, shading his eyes with +his shrivelled hand. The travellers come in. First +a triumphal procession of successful and intrepid +mountaineers. Banners wave, cannon go off—or +more probably miss fire—bouquets are displayed, +champagne and compliments are poured out; both +the latter expressions of congratulation equally gassy, +and both about equally genuine. +</p> + +<p> +<q>Who are these?</q> the old man inquires. +</p> + +<p> +<q>Do you not see the number on their banner?</q> +answers the youth; <q>they are the heroes of the forty-fifth +section of the tenth branch of the northern +division of the Savoy Alpine Club.</q> +</p> + +<p> +<q>Ah!</q> the old man murmurs to himself, with a +sigh of recollection, <q>I can remember that they were +numerous even in my day.</q> +</p> + +<p> +Then follows a sad-looking, dejected creature, stealing +back to his hotel by byways, but with face bronzed +from exposure on rocks, not scorched by sun-reflecting +snow; his boots scored with multitudinous little cuts +and scratches telling of difficult climbing; his hands +as brown as his face; his finger-nails, it must be +admitted, seriously impaired in their symmetry. +</p> + +<p> +<q>And who is this? Has he been guilty of some +crime?</q> the old man asks. +</p> + +<p> +<q>Not so,</q> the answer comes; <q>he has just +com<pb n='321'/><anchor id='Pg321'/>pleted the thousandth ascent of the Aiguille...; +he comes of a curious race which, history relates, at +one time much frequented these districts; but that +was a great while ago—long before the monarchy +was re-established. You do well to look at him; that +is the last of the climbing Englishmen. They always +seem depressed when they have succeeded in achieving +their ambition of the moment; it is a characteristic of +their now almost extinct race.</q> +</p> + +<note place="margin">Mountaineering in the future</note> + +<p> +<q>And what about the perils of the expedition?</q> +the old man asks, brightening up a little as if some +old ideas had suddenly flashed across his mind. <q>I +would fain know whether the journey is different now +from what it was formerly; yet the heroes would mock +me, perchance, if I were to interrogate them.</q> +</p> + +<p> +<q>Not at all,</q> the youth replies. <q>There are but +few of the first party who would not vouchsafe to give +you a full account, and might even in their courtesy +embellish the narrative with flowers of rhetoric. But +it is unnecessary. They will print a detailed and full +description of their exploits. It has all been said +before, but so has everything else, I think.</q> +</p> + +<p> +<q>That is true,</q> the old man murmurs to himself; <q>it +was even so in my time, and two hundred years before +I lived a French writer commenced his book with the +remark, <q><hi rend='italic'>Tout est dit.</hi></q> But what of the other, the +dejected survivor? does he not too write?</q> +</p> + +<p> +<q>Yes, indeed, but not in the same strain; he will +<pb n='322'/><anchor id='Pg322'/>but pour out a little gentle sarcasm and native spleen, +in mild criticism of the fulsome periods he peruses in +other tongues.</q> +</p> + +<p> +<q>Ah me!</q> thinks the old man, <q>in one respect then +I need not prove so much behind the time. If the +memory of the Alpine literature of my day were still +fresh, I could hold mine own with those I see around.</q> +</p> + +<p> +May I be permitted, in conclusion, to come back +to our own day, and to say a very few words on the +subject of mountaineering accidents? Most heartily +would I concur with any one who raised the objection +that such remarks are out of place in a chapter on +the mountaineering of the future. But perhaps we +have been looking too far ahead, and there may be a +period to follow between this our time and the future +to be hoped for. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Dangers of the Alps</note> + +<p> +It has sometimes been stated and written that no +one desires to remove from mountaineering all danger. +The dangers of mountaineering have been divided by +a well-known authority into real and imaginary. The +supposed existence of the latter is, I grant, desirable, +especially to the inexperienced climber; but I shall +always contend that it ought to be the great object of +every votary of the pursuit to minimise the former to +the utmost of his ability. Now, it is only by true +experience—that is, by learning gradually the art of +mountaineering—that the climber will achieve this +result. Few of those unacquainted with the subject +<pb n='323'/><anchor id='Pg323'/>can have any idea of the extraordinary difference +between the risk run on a difficult expedition (that is, +on one where difficulties occur: the name of the peak +or pass has little to do with the matter) by a practised +mountaineer who has learned something of the art, +and an inexperienced climber who has nothing but +the best intentions to assist his steps. The man of +experience bears always in mind the simple axioms +and rules of his craft; if he does not he is a bad +mountaineer. If the plain truth be told, accidents in +the Alps have almost invariably, to whomsoever they +befell, been due to breaking one or more of these +same well-known rules, or, in other words, to bad +mountaineering. That such is no more than a simple +statement of fact a former president of the Alpine +Club, Mr. C. E. Mathews, has abundantly proved.<note place="foot"><hi rend='italic'>Vide</hi> <hi rend="italic">Alpine Journal</hi>, vol. xi. p. 78. <q>The Alpine Obituary,</q> +by C. E. Mathews.</note> +Numbers of our countrymen, young and old, annually +rush out to the Alps for the first time. Fired with +ambition, or led on by the fascination of the pastime, +with scarcely any preliminary training and no preliminary +study of the subject, they at once begin to +attack the more difficult peaks and passes. Success +perhaps attends their efforts. Unfit, they go up a +difficult mountain, trusting practically to the ability +of the guides to do their employers’ share of the work +as well as their own. They descend, and think to gauge +<pb n='324'/><anchor id='Pg324'/>their skill by the name of the expedition undertaken. +The state of the weather and of the mountain determine +whether such a performance be an act of simple +or of culpable folly. For such the imaginary dangers +are the most formidable. If they had taken the +trouble to begin at the beginning, to learn the difference +between the stem and stern of a boat before +attempting to navigate an ironclad, they would have +recognised, and profited by, the true risks run. As +it is, they are probably inflated with conceit at overcoming +visionary difficulties. They may make, indeed, +in this way what in Alpine slang is called a good +<q>book;</q> but by far the greater number fail to perceive +that there is anything to learn. It is a pastime—an +amusement; they do not look beyond this. +But these same climbers would admit that in other +forms of sport, such as cricket or rowing, proficiency +is not found in beginners. It is in the study and +development of the amusement that the true and +deeper pleasure is to be found. A tyro in cricket +would make himself an object of ridicule in a high-class +match; the novice in the art of rowing would +be loth to display his feeble powers if thrust into a +racing four with three tried oarsmen; and yet the +embryo climber can see nothing absurd in attacking +mountains of recognised difficulty. Inexperience in +the former instances at least could cause no harm, +while ignorance of the elementary principles of +moun<pb n='325'/><anchor id='Pg325'/>taineering renders the climber a serious source of +danger not only to himself but to others. There is +no royal road to the acquirement of mountaineering +knowledge. It is just as difficult to use the axe or +alpenstock properly as the oar or the racquet; just +as much patient, persevering practice is needed; but +it is not on difficult expeditions that such inexperience +can be best overcome. +</p> + +<note place="margin">The real mountaineer</note> + +<p> +A man of average activity could, probably, actually +climb, without any particular experience, most of, or +all, the more difficult rock peaks under good conditions +of weather and the like. But how different from the +really practical mountaineer, who strives to make an +art of his pastime. Watch the latter. First and +foremost, he knows when to turn back, and does not +hesitate to act as his judgment directs. He bears in +mind that there is pleasure to be obtained from +mountaineering even though the programme may not +be carried out in its entirety as planned, and realises +to the full that +</p> + +<lg> +<l>’Tis better to have climbed and failed</l> +<l>Than never to have climbed at all.</l> +</lg> + +<p> +His companions are always safe with him, his climbing +unselfish; he never dislodges a loose stone—except +purposely—either with hands, feet, or the loose +rope; he is always as firm as circumstances will +permit, prepared to withstand any sudden slip; he +never puts forth more strength at each step than is +<pb n='326'/><anchor id='Pg326'/>necessary, thus saving his powers, being always ready +in an emergency, and never degenerating into that +most dangerous of encumbrances, a tired member of +a united party: not, of course, that the vast majority +of amateurs can ever hope, with their imperfect +practice, to attain to the level of even a second-rate +guide; still, by bringing his intelligence to bear on +this, as he does on any other amusement, the +amateur can render himself something more than +a thoroughly reliable companion on any justifiable +expedition. +</p> + +<note place="margin">Conclusion</note> + +<p> +Let the spirit of competition lead young climbers +to strive after excellence in this direction, rather than, +as is too commonly the case, induce them to take +<q>Times</q> as the criterion of mountaineering proficiency. +There are instructors enough. Even from +an inferior guide an infinite amount may be learnt; +at the least such a one can recognise the real danger +of the Alps, and in this respect possesses a faculty +which is one of the chief the mountaineer has to +acquire. Let the spirit in which the Alps are climbed +be of some such nature as that I have attempted to +indicate, and accidents such as those recorded in +Mr. C. E. Mathews’ grim list will be of such rare +occurrence that they will never be called up to discredit +mountaineering. If, perchance, any words +here written shall prompt in the future the climber +to perfect his art more and more while frequenting +<pb n='327'/><anchor id='Pg327'/>the old haunts, and to extend and utilise mountaineering +still more, then at least the writer may feel, like +the mountain when it had brought forth the ridiculous +mouse, that his labour has not been wholly in vain. +Yet more: his gloomy forebodings shall be falsified, +and with respect to the future of mountaineering the +outlook will be bright enough. +</p> + +<p rend="center; margin-top: 4; font-size: x-small"> +LONDON: PRINTED BY<lb/> +SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE<lb/> +AND PARLIAMENT STREET +</p> + </div></body> + <back> + <div> + <pgIf output="pdf"> + <then/> + <else> + <div id="footnotes" rend="page-break-before: right"> + <head>Footnotes</head> + <divGen type="footnotes"/> + </div> + </else> + </pgIf> + </div> + <div rend="page-break-before:right; x-class: boxed"> + <index index="pdf" level1="Transcriber's Note"/><index index="toc" level1="Transcriber’s Note"/> + <head>Transcriber’s Note</head> + + <!--<p>The illustrations in the original volume were printed on separate, not paginated plates. In this electronic version +they have been moved behind the paragraph in which the illustration was placed. +The caption was printed on the reverse side of the plates; +in the electronic version they are placed under the illustrations, </p>--> + <p>The following changes have been made to the text:</p> + <list> + <item><ref target="corrix">page ix</ref>, page number <q>1</q> added</item> + <item><ref target="corrxiv">page xiv</ref>, page number <q>290</q> changed to <q>291</q></item> + <item><ref target="corr031">page 31</ref>, <q>gulley</q> changed to <q>gully</q></item> + <item><ref target="corr096">page 96</ref>, <q>sepulchra</q> changed to <q>sepulchral</q></item> + <item><ref target="corr113">page 113</ref>, <q>complicate</q> changed to <q>complicated</q></item> + <item><ref target="corr151">page 151</ref>, <q>thoughful</q> changed to <q>thoughtful</q></item> + <item><ref target="corr216">page 216</ref>, <q>menta</q> changed to <q>mental</q></item> + <item><ref target="corr255">page 255</ref>, <q>thier</q> changed to <q>their</q></item> + <item><ref target="corr269">page 269</ref>, <q>in roduction</q> changed to <q>introduction</q></item> + <item><ref target="corr310">page 310</ref>, parenthesis added before <q>2nd</q></item> + <item><ref target="corr312">page 312</ref>, <q>developmen</q> changed to <q>development</q>, + <q>gradua</q> changed to <q><ref target="corr312a">gradual</ref></q></item> + </list> + <p>Variations in hyphenation (e.g. <q>bootlace</q>, <q>boot-lace</q>; + <q>doorpost</q>, <q>door-post</q>) + have not been changed.</p> + </div> + <div rend="page-break-before: right"> + <divGen type="pgfooter"/> + </div> + </back> + </text> +</TEI.2> diff --git a/35434-tei/images/cover.jpg b/35434-tei/images/cover.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1a01a73 --- /dev/null +++ b/35434-tei/images/cover.jpg diff --git a/35434-tei/images/illo_005.jpg b/35434-tei/images/illo_005.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d4bf570 --- /dev/null +++ b/35434-tei/images/illo_005.jpg diff --git a/35434-tei/images/illo_180.jpg b/35434-tei/images/illo_180.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d402b18 --- /dev/null +++ b/35434-tei/images/illo_180.jpg diff --git a/35434-tei/images/illo_189.jpg b/35434-tei/images/illo_189.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d73190d --- /dev/null +++ b/35434-tei/images/illo_189.jpg diff --git a/35434.txt b/35434.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e2d674f --- /dev/null +++ b/35434.txt @@ -0,0 +1,8201 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Above the Snow Line by Clinton Thomas Dent + + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no +restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under +the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or +online at http://www.gutenberg.org/license + + + +Title: Above the Snow Line + +Author: Clinton Thomas Dent + +Release Date: March 1, 2011 [Ebook #35434] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: US-ASCII + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ABOVE THE SNOW LINE*** + + + + + + ABOVE THE SNOW LINE + + LONDON: PRINTED BY + SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE + AND PARLIAMENT STREET + + [Illustration: THE BIETSCHHORN. FROM THE PETERSGRAT] + + + + + + ABOVE THE SNOW LINE + + MOUNTAINEERING SKETCHES + BETWEEN 1870 AND 1880 + + BY + CLINTON DENT + VICE-PRESIDENT OF THE ALPINE CLUB + + + "_Celui qui n'a jamais ses heures_ + _de folie est moins sage qu'il ne le_ + _pense_"--LA BRUYERE + + + +WITH TWO ENGRAVINGS BY EDWARD WHYMPER AND +AN ILLUSTRATION BY PERCY MACQUOID + + +LONDON +LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO. +1885 + +_All rights reserved_ + + + + + + THESE SKETCHES OF MOUNTAINEERING + I DEDICATE TO + T. I. D. + IN THE HOPE THAT A BOOK WITHOUT A HEROINE + MAY, AT LEAST, ACQUIRE SOME FEMININE INTEREST + + + + + + PREFACE + + +Some of the following sketches do not now appear for the first time; but +such as have been before published in other form have been entirely +re-written, and, in great measure, recast. + + + +To the writer the work has afforded an occasional distraction from more +serious professional work, and he cannot wish better than that it should +serve the same purpose to the reader. + +CORTINA DI AMPEZZO: +_September 1884_. + + + + + + CONTENTS + + +CHAPTER I. +AN EXPEDITION IN THE OLDEN STYLE + PAGE +Buried records--_Litera scripta manet_--The survival of the unfit--A 1 +literary octopus--Sybaritic mountaineering--On mountain +"form"--Lessons to be learned in the Alps--The growth and spread of +the climbing craze--Variations of the art--A tropical day in the +valley--A deserted hostelry--The hotel staff appears in several +characters--Ascent of the Balfrinhorn--Our baggage train and +transport department--A well-ventilated shelter--On sleeping out: +its advantages on the present occasion--The Mischabelhoerner family +group--A plea for Saas and the Fee plateau--We attack the +Suedlenzspitz--The art of detecting hidden crevasses--Plans for the +future--Sentiment on a summit--The feast is spread--The +Alphubeljoch--We meet our warmest welcome at an inn +CHAPTER II. +THE ROTHHORN (MOMING) FROM ZERMATT +The Alpine dramatis personae--Mountaineering fact and romance--The 31 +thirst for novelty and its symptoms--The first ascent of the +Moming--Preliminaries are observed--Rock _v._ snow mountains--The +amateur and the guide on rocks and on snow--The programme is made +out--Franz Andermatten--Falling stones in the gully--We smooth away +the difficulties--The psychological effects of reaching mountain +summits--A rock bombardment and a narrow escape--The youthful +tourist and his baggage--Hotel trials--We are interviewed--The +gushers +CHAPTER III. +EARLY ATTEMPTS ON THE AIGUILLE DU DRU +The Alps and the early mountaineers--The last peaks to 56 +surrender--The Aiguille du Dru--Messrs. Kennedy and Pendlebury's +attempt on the peak--One-day expeditions in the Alps and thoughts +on huts and sleeping out--The Chamouni guide system--A word on +guides, past and present--The somnolent landlord and his +peculiarities--Some of the party see a chamois--Doubts as to the +peak and the way--The duplicity of the Aiguille deceives +us--Telescopic observations--An ill-arranged glacier--Franz and his +mighty axe--A start on the rocks in the wrong direction--Progress +reported--An adjournment--The rocks of the lower peak of the +Aiguille du Dru--Our first failure--The expedition resumed--A new +line of ascent--We reach the sticking point--Beaten back--The +results gained by the two days' climbing +CHAPTER IV. +A DAY ACROSS COUNTRY +The art of meteorological vaticination--The climate we leave our 96 +homes for--Observations in the valley--The diligence arrives and +shoots its load--Types of travellers--The Alpine habitue--The +elderly spinster on tour--A stern Briton--A family party--We seek +fresh snow-fields--The Bietschhorn--A sepulchral bivouac--On early +starts and their curious effects on the temperament--A choice of +routes--A deceptive ice gully--The avalanches on the Bietschhorn--We +work up to a dramatic situation--The united party nearly fall +out--A limited panorama--A race for home--Caught out--A short +cut--Driven to extremities--The water jump--An aged person comes to +the rescue--A classical banquet at Ried--The old cure and his +hospitality--A wasted life? +CHAPTER V. +AN OLD FRIEND WITH A NEW FACE +Chamouni again--The hotel _clientele_--A youthful hero--The 130 +inevitable English family--A scientific gentleman--A dream of the +future--The hereafter of the Alps and of Alpine literature--A +condensed mountain ascent--Wanted, a programme--A double +"Brocken"--A hill-side phenomenon and a familiar character--A +strong argument--Halting doubts and fears--A digression on +mountaineering accidents--"From gay to grave, from lively to +severe"--The storm breaks--A battle with the elements--Beating the +air--The ridge carried by assault--What next, and next?--A +topographical problem and a cool proposal--The descent down the +Vallee Blanche--The old Montanvert hotel--The Montanvert path and +its frequenters +CHAPTER VI. +ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE DU DRU +"_Decies repetita placebit_" +Disadvantages of narratives of personal adventure--Expeditions on 169 +the Aiguille du Dru in 1874--The ridge between the Aiguilles du +Dru and Verte--"Defendu de passer par la"--Distance lends +enchantment--Other climbers attack the peak--View of the mountain +from the Col de Balme--We try the northern side, and fail more +signally than usual--Showing that mountain fever is of the +recurrent type--We take seats below, but have no opportunity of +going up higher--The campaign opens--We go under canvas--A spasmodic +start, and another failure--A change of tactics and a new +leader--Our sixteenth attempt--Sports and pastimes at Chamouni--The +art of cray-fishing--The apparel oft proclaims the man--A canine +acquaintance--A new ally--The turning-point of the expedition--A +rehearsal for the final performance--A difficult descent--A blank +in the narrative--A carriage misadventure--A penultimate failure--We +start with two guides and finish with one--The rocks of the +Dru--Maurer joins the party--Our nineteenth attempt--A narrow escape +in the gully--The arete at last--The final scramble--Our foe is +vanquished and decorated--The return journey--Benighted--A moonlight +descent--We are graciously received--On "fair" mountaineering--The +prestige of new peaks--Chamouni becomes festive--"Heut' Abend +grosses Feuerwerkfest"--Chamouni dances and shows hospitality--The +scene closes in +CHAPTER VII. +BYE-DAYS IN ALPINE MIDLANDS +1. _A Pardonable Digression._ +On well-ordered intellects--The drawbacks of accurate +memory--Sub-Alpine walks: their admirers and their +recommendations--The "High-Level Route"--The Ruinette--An infallible +prescription for ill-humour--A climb and a meditation on grass +slopes--The agile person's acrobatic feats--The psychological +effects of sunrise--The ascent of the Ruinette--We return to our +mutton at Arolla--A vision on the hill-side. +2. _A Little Maiden._ +Saas in the olden days--A neglected valley--The mountains drained 236 +dry--A curious omission--The Portienhorn, and its good points as a +mountain--The chef produces a masterpiece--An undesirable tenement +to be let unfurnished--An evicted family--A rapid act of +mountaineering--On the pleasures of little climbs--The various +methods of making new expeditions on one mountain--On the +mountaineer who has nothing to learn, and his consequent +ignorance +CHAPTER VIII. +A SENTIMENTAL ALPINE JOURNEY +Long "waits" and entr'actes--The Mont Buet as an unknown 266 +mountain--We hire carriages--A digression on a stationary vehicle--A +straggling start--The incomplete moralist--The niece to the +moralist--A discourse on gourmets--An artistic interlude--We become +thoughtful, and reach the height of sentiment and the top of the +Mont Buet--Some other members of the party--The mountaineers +perform--How glissading ambition did o'erleap itself--A vision on +the summit--The moralist leaves us for a while--Entertainment at +the Berard Chalet--View of the Aiguille Verte--The end of the +journey +CHAPTER IX. +A FRAGMENT +An unauthentic MS.--Solitude on the mountain: its advantages to 291 +the historian of the Alps--A rope walk--The crossing of the +Schrund--A novel form of avalanche and an airy situation--A +towering obstacle--The issue of the expedition in the balance--A +very narrow escape--The final rush--Victory!--The perils of the +descent--I plunge _in medias res_--A flying descent +CHAPTER X. +THE FUTURE OF MOUNTAINEERING +Mountaineers and their critics--The early days of the Alpine 300 +Club--The founders of mountaineering--The growth of the +amusement--Novelty and exploration--The formation of +centres--Narrowing of the field of mountaineering--The upward limit +of mountaineering--De Saussure's experience--Modern development of +climbing--Mr. Whymper's experience--Mr. Graham's experience--The +ascent of great heights--Mr. Grove's views--Messrs. Coxwell and +Glaisher's balloon experiences--Reasons for dissenting from Mr. +Glaisher's views--The possibility of ascending Mount +Everest--Physiological aspect of the question--Acclimatisation to +great heights--The direction in which mountaineering should be +developed--The results that may be obtained--Chamouni a century +hence--A Rip van Winkle in the Pennine Alps--The dangers of +mountaineering--Conclusion + + ----------- + +ILLUSTRATIONS +THE BIETSCHHORN FROM THE PETERSGRAT _Frontispiece_ +THE AIGUILLE DU DRU FROM THE SOUTH _to face page_ 169 +A VISION ON A SUMMIT " 282 + + + + + + + ABOVE THE SNOW LINE + + + + + + CHAPTER I. + + + AN EXPEDITION IN THE OLDEN STYLE + + + Buried records--_Litera scripta manet_--The survival of the unfit--A + literary octopus--Sybaritic mountaineering--On mountain + "form"--Lessons to be learned in the Alps--The growth and spread of + the climbing craze--Variations of the art--A tropical day in the + valley--A deserted hostelry--The hotel staff appears in several + characters--Ascent of the Balfrinhorn--Our baggage train and + transport department--A well-ventilated shelter--On sleeping out: + its advantages on the present occasion--The Mischabelhoerner family + group--A plea for Saas and the Fee plateau--We attack the + Suedlenzspitz--The art of detecting hidden crevasses--Plans for the + future--Sentiment on a summit--The feast is spread--The + Alphubeljoch--We meet our warmest welcome at an inn. + + +There exists a class of generously-minded folk who display a desire to +improve their fellow-creatures and a love for their species, by referring +pointedly to others for the purpose of mentioning that the objects of +their remarks have never been guilty of certain enormities: a critical +process, which is about equivalent to tarring an individual, but, from +humanitarian considerations, omitting to feather him also. The ordeal, as +applied to others, is unwarrantable; but there is a certain odd pleasure +in subjecting oneself to it. Now, it is but a paraphrase to say that the +more we go about, the more, in all probability, shall we be strengthened +in the conviction that the paradise of fools must have a large acreage. +The average Briton has a constantly present dread that he is likely to do +something to justify his admission into that department of Elysium. The +thought that he has so qualified, will wake him up if it crosses his mind +even in a dream, or make his blood run cold--whatever that may mean--in his +active state. Thus it falls out that he is for ever, as it were, conning +over the pass-book of his actions, and marvelling how few entries he can +find on the credit side, as he does so. It is asserted as a fact (and it +were hard to gainsay the sentiment), that _Litera scripta manet_. No +doubt; but how much more obtrusively true is it that printed matter is as +indestructible as the Hydra? It has occurred sometimes to the writer, on +very, very sleepless nights, to take down from a shelf, to slap the cover +in order to get rid of a considerable amount of dust, and to peruse, in a +volume well-known to all members of the Alpine Club, accounts written +years before, of early mountain expeditions. To trace in some such way, at +any rate to search for, indications of a fancied development of mind has a +curious fascination for the solitary man. Effusions which an author would +jealously hide away from the eyes of his friends, have a strangely +absorbing interest to the man who reflects that he himself was their +perpetrator. + +(M1) + +We most of us, whatever principles we assert on the matter, keep stowed +away, in some corner or another, the overflow of a fancied talent. The +form varies: it may, perhaps, be a five act tragedy, possibly a +psychological disquisition, or a sensational novel in three volumes of MS. +It is a satisfaction to turn such treasures out from time to time when no +eyes are upon us, even if it be only to thank Heaven devoutly that they +have always lain unknown and uncriticised. "Il n'y a rien qui rafraichisse +le sang comme d'avoir su eviter de faire une sottise." Of work done, of +which the author had no especial reason to be proud, a feeling of +thankfulness in a lesser degree may arise from the consciousness that, if +ever recognised at all, it is now, happily, forgotten. So have these early +effusions sometimes amused, not infrequently astounded, and at the worst +have nearly always brought the wished-for slumber; and yet in Alpine +writings the same accounts were for the most part as faithful +representations as the writer could set down on paper of impressions made +at the time. It has often occurred to me to ask what manner of description +a writer would give of an expedition made many years before. How would the +lapse of time influence him? Would he make light of whatever danger there +was? Would the picture require a very decided coat of varnish to make it +at all recognisable? Would the crudities come out still more strongly, or +would the colours all have faded and sunk harmoniously together in his +picture? The speculation promised to be interesting enough to make it +worth while to give practical effect to the idea. Now the expedition +narrated in this chapter was made in 1870, and possibly, therefore, if a +description were worth giving at all, it had better have been given fresh. +We can always find some proverb tending more or less to justify any course +of action that we may be desirous of pursuing, and by distorting the +meaning of a quotation manage to serve our own ends. Of all the ill-used +remarks of this nature, surely the most often employed is, "Better late +than never;" the extreme elasticity of which saying, in the application +thereof, is well evidenced by the doctor who employed it in justification +of his late arrival when he came on a professional visit to the lady and +found the baby learning its alphabet. + +(M2) + +When an aquarium was a fashionable resort, amongst a good many queer and +loose fish, we became familiar with a monstrously ill-favoured beast +called a cuttle-fish: and may have had a chance of seeing how the animal, +if attacked by his physical superior, resorted to the ingenious plan of +effusing a quantity of ink, and, under cover of this, retreating hastily +backwards out of harm's way. There are some, less ingenuous than the +Octopus, who retreat first into obscurity and then pour out their effusion +of ink. But it is more common to use the flare of an epigram or of a +proverb, as a conjurer does his wand, to distract attention for the moment +and divert the thought current from matters we do not wish to be too +evident. At any rate, I must in the present instance lay under tribute the +author of Proverbs, and add another straw to the already portentous burden +that they who wish to compound for literary sins have already piled on his +back. Apologising is, however, a dangerous vice, as a well-known writer +has remarked. The account, though a sort of literary congenital cripple, +has still a prescriptive right to live. Besides this expedition was +undertaken in the pre-Sybaritic age of mountaineering, and before the +later refinements of that art and science had taken firm hold of its +votaries. What would the stern explorers of former time have thought, or +said, if they had perceived persons engaged on the glaciers sitting down +on camp-stools to a light refection of truffle pie and cold punch? Such +banquets are not uncommon now, though precisians with a tendency to +dyspepsia still object strongly to them. In those days, too, mountaineers +were not so much differentiated that climbers were talked of by their +fellows like cricketers are described in the book of Lillywhite. "Jones," +for instance, "is a brilliant cragsman, but inclined to be careless on +moraines." "Noakes," again, "remarkably sure and steady on snow, fairly +good in a couloir, would do better if he did not possess such an +astounding appetite and would pay more attention to the use of the rope." +"Stokes possesses remarkable knowledge of the Alps; on rocks climbs with +his head; we wish we could say honestly that he can climb at all with his +hands and feet." "Thompson, first-rate step-cutter; walks on snow with the +graceful gait and unlaboured action of a shrimp-catcher at his work: kicks +down every loose stone he touches." Thus different styles of climbing are +recognised. "Form," as it is called in climbing, was in the old days an +unknown term, and yet it is probable that the "form" was by no means +inferior to any that can be shown now-a-days. The reason is obvious enough +and the explanation lies simply in the fact that the apprenticeship served +in the mountains was then much longer than it is now. People did not so +often try to ride a steeple-chase before they had learnt to sit in a +saddle, or appreciated that the near side was the best by which to get up. +When this particular expedition was made (towards which I feel that I am +an unconscionable time in making a start) I had been five or six seasons +in the Alps, during the first two of which I had never set foot on a +snow-slope. There had always seemed to me from the first, to be so much +absolutely to learn in mountaineering: there is no less now, indeed there +is more, for the science has been developed, but it seems beyond doubt, +that fewer people recognise the fact. Like most other arts, it can only be +learnt in one way, by constant practice, by constant care and attention +and by always doing everything in the mountains to the best of one's +ability. Too many may seem to think that there is a royal road, and fail +to recognise that a plebeian does not alter his status by walking along +this variety of highway. + +(M3) + +Time rolled on. The fascination of climbing spread abroad, and it followed +with the increasing number of mountaineers that more and more difficulties +were experienced in attempts to diversify the sport in the Alps alone, and +in emerging from the common herd of climbers. Then a new danger arose. The +sport grew fashionable--a serious symptom to its true lovers. Books of +Alpine adventure readily found readers; novels, and other forms of +nonsense, were written about the mountains; accounts of new expeditions +were telegraphed at once to all parts of the world, and found as important +a place in the newspapers as the Derby betting, or the latest reports as +to the precise medical details of some eminent person's internal +complaint. Still further did the craving for novelty spread, and more +strange did the means of satisfying it become. The mountains were ascended +without guides: in winter; by people afflicted with mental aberration who +wore tall hats and frock coats on the glaciers; by persons who were +ignorant of the laws of optics as applied to large telescopes; in bad +weather, by wrong routes and so forth. Then, too, set in what may be +called the variation craze. This is very infectious. For those who can see +no beauty in a scene that some one else has gazed on before it is still a +passion. We may still at times, in the Alps, hear people say, "Oh yes, +that is a very fine expedition, no doubt, but I don't think I care much +about undertaking it; you see so and so has done it; couldn't we manage to +strike out a different line?" The result is a "variation" expedition. The +composer when hard driven, and not strongly under the influence of the +Muse, will at times take some innocent, simple melody and submit it to +exquisite torture by writing what he is pleased to call variations. +Sometimes he will not rest till he has perpetrated as many as thirty-two +on some innocent little tune of our childhood. The original air becomes +entirely lost, like a sixpence buried in a flour bag, and we may marvel, +for instance, as may the travelled American, at the immense amount of +foreign matter that may be introduced into "Home, sweet home." Even so +does the climber sometimes practise his art. But for one who entertains a +strict respect for the old order of things, and for the memory of an age +of mountaineering now rapidly passing into oblivion, to write in any such +strain would be intolerable. And so, even as a theatrical manager when his +brilliant play, stolen, or, as it is generally described, "adapted," from +the French, does not run, I may be allowed to raise the curtain on a +revival of the old drama, a comedy in one short act, and not provided with +any very thrilling "situations." The "scenarium" lay ready to hand in the +leaves of an old journal, which may possibly share, with other old leaves, +the property of being rather dry. But we are meandering, as it were, in +the valleys, and run some risk of digressing too far from the path which +should lead to the mountain in hand. There is a story of a clergyman who +selected a rather long text as a preface to his discourse, and finding, +when he had read it at length a second time, that his congregation were +mostly disposed in attitudes which might be of attention, but which were, +at the same time, suggestive of slumber, wisely concluded to defer +enlarging upon it till a more fitting occasion, and dismissed his hearers, +or at any rate those present, with the remark that they had heard his text +and that he would not presume to mar its effectiveness by any exordium +upon it. _Revenons._ + +(M4) + +In the early part of August 1870, our party walked one sultry day up the +Saas Valley. The dust glittered thick and yellow on our boots. Many of the +smaller brooks had struck work altogether, while the main river was +reduced to a clear stream trickling lazily down between sloping banks of +rounded white boulders that shone with a painful glare in the strong +sunlight. The more muscular of the grasshoppers found their limbs so +lissom in the warmth that they achieved the most prodigious leaps out of +sheer lightheartedness; for they sprang so far that they could have had no +definite idea where they might chance to light. On the stone walls busy +little lizards, with heaving flanks, scurried about with little fitful +spurts, and vanished abruptly into the crannies, perpetually playing hide +and seek with each other, and always seeming out of breath. The foliage +drooped motionless in the heavy air and the shadows it cast lengthened +along the dusty ground as steadily as the streak on a sundial. The smoke +from the guides' pipes (and guides, like itinerant nigger minstrels, +always have pipes in their mouths when moving from the scene of one +performance to another) hung in mid air, and the vile choking smell of the +sputtering lucifer matches was perceptible when the laggards reached the +spot where a man a hundred yards ahead had lighted one of these +abominations. + +To pass under the shade of a walnut tree was refreshing like a cold +douche; and to step forth again into the heat and glare made one almost +gasp. Flannel shirts were miserably inadequate to the strain put upon +their absorbent qualities. The potatoes and cabbages were white and +piteously dusty. Even the pumpkins seemed to be trying to bury their plump +forms in the cool recesses of the earth. Everywhere there seemed a +consciousness as of a heavy droning hum. All of which may be concisely +summed up in the now classical opening remark of a well-known comedy +character, one "Perkyn Middlewick" to wit, "It's 'ot." + +(M5) + +When within a little distance of the hotel I enquired whether it was worth +while for one of the party to push on to secure rooms. The guides thought, +on the whole, that it was unnecessary, and this opinion was justified +subsequently by the fact that we found ourselves the sole occupants of the +hotel during the week or so that we remained in the district. It was the +year of the war; ugly rumours were about, but very few tourists. +Selecting, therefore, the most luxurious apartment, and having given over +to the care of one Franz, who appeared in the character of "boots" to the +hotel, a remarkable pair of cowhide brogues of original design, as hard as +sabots and much more uncomfortable, I sat down on a stone slab, in order +to cool down to a temperature that might permit of dining without fear of +imperilling digestion. So pleased were the hotel authorities at the +presence of a traveller that they exerted themselves to the utmost to +entertain us well, and with remarkable results. I find a record of the +dinner served. There were ten dishes in consecutive order, exclusive of +what Americans term "fixings." As to the nature of nine it was difficult +to speak with any degree of certainty, but the tenth was apparently a +blackbird that had perished of starvation and whose attenuated form the +chef had bulged out with extraneous matter. Franz, who seemed to be a sort +of general utility man to the establishment, had thrown off, with the ease +of a Gomersal or a Ducrow, the outward habiliments of a boots and appeared +now as a waiter, in a shirt so hard and starched that he was unable to +bend and could only button his waistcoat by the sense of touch. The repast +over, Franz removed the shirt front and unbent thereupon in manner as in +person. Assuming engaging airs, he entered into conversation, disappearing +however for short intervals at times, in order, as might be inferred from +certain sounds proceeding from an adjoining apartment, to discharge the +duties of a chamber-maid. Subsequently it transpired that he was the +proprietor of the hotel. + +(M6) + +We agreed to commence our mountaineering by an ascent of the Balfrinhorn, +a most charming walk and one which even in those days was considered a +gentle climb. There are few peaks about this district which will better +repay the climber of moderately high ambition, and it is possible to +complete the expedition without retracing the steps. There is no danger, +and it is hard to say to what part of the mountain an enthusiast would +have to go in order to discover any: so the expedition, though perhaps +prosaic, is still very interesting throughout and quite in the olden +style. The solitude at the hotel was somewhat dull, and the conversational +powers of the guides soon exhausted if we travelled beyond the subject of +chamois hunting, I did indeed try on one occasion to explain to them, in +answer to an earnest request, the military system of Great Britain. But, +with a limited vocabulary, the task was not easy and, as I could not think +of any words to express what was meant by red tape, circumlocution, and +short service, my exposition was limited to enlarging on the facts that +the warriors of my native country were exceeding valiant folk with very +fine chests, that they wore highly padded red coats and little hats like +half bonbon boxes cocked on one side and that they would never consent to +be slaves. Burgener, anxious for some more stirring expedition, suggested +that we should climb the Dom from the Saas side or make a first ascent of +the Suedlenzspitz. We had often talked of the former expedition, which had +not at the time been achieved, and, in order to facilitate its +accomplishment, divers small grants of money had been sent out from +England to be expended in the construction of a hut some five hours' walk +above Fee. In answer to enquiries, the guides reported with no small +amount of pride, that the building had been satisfactorily completed and +they were of opinion that it was ready for occupation. At some length the +process of building was described and it really seemed from their account +that they had caused to be erected a shelter of unduly pretentious +dimensions. It appeared, however, that the residence was equally well +placed to serve as a shelter for an ascent of the Suedlenzspitz and we +decided ultimately to attack that peak first. Great preparations were +made; an extensive assortment of very inferior blankets was produced and +spread out in the road in front of the hotel, either for airing or some +other ill-defined purpose, possibly from some natural pride in the +extensive resources of the hotel. Then they pulled down and piled into a +little stack, opposite the front door, fire wood enough to roast an ox, or +convert an enthusiast into a saint. + +(M7) + +One fine afternoon we started. The entire staff and _personnel_ of the +hotel would have turned out to wish us good luck, but did not actually do +so, as he was engaged in a back shed milking a cow. Laden with a large +bundle of fire wood, I toiled up the steep grass slopes above Fee, leading +to the Hochbalm glacier. The day was oppressively hot, and I was not +wholly ungrateful on finding that the string round my bundle was loose and +that the sticks dropped out one after another: accordingly I selected a +place in the extreme rear of the caravan, lest my delinquencies should +perchance be observed. The sun beat mercilessly down upon our backs on +these bare slopes and we sighed involuntarily for Vallombrosa or Monaco or +some equally shady place. The guides, who up to that time had spoken of +their building as if it were of somewhat palatial dimensions, now began +rather to disparage the construction. Doubts were expressed as to the +effects certain storms and heavy falls of snow might have had on it and +regrets that the weather had prevented the builders from attending as +minutely to details of finish and decoration as they could have wished. +Putting this and that together, I came to the conclusion that the erection +would probably be found to display but indifferent architectural merit. +However, there was nothing better to look forward to. "Where is it?" "Oh, +right up there, under the big cliff, close to where Alexander is." In the +dim distance could be distinguished the form of our guide as a little dark +mass progressing on two pink flesh-coloured streaks, striding rapidly up +the hill. The phenomenon of colour was due to the fact that, prompted by +the sultriness of the day, Alexander had adopted in his garb a temporary +variation of the Highland costume. A few minutes later he joined us, +clothed indeed, and in a right, but still a melancholy frame of mind. +Shaking his head sadly, he explained that a grievous disaster had taken +place, evidently in the spring. The forebodings of the +constructively-minded rustics we had left below, who knew about as much of +architecture as they did of metaphysics, proved now to be true. They had +remarked that they feared lest some chance stone should have fallen, and +possibly have inflicted damage on the hut. Why they had selected a site +where such an accident might happen, was not at the moment quite obvious, +but it became so later on. Burgener told us that the roof had been carried +away. Beyond question the roof was gone; at any rate it was not there, and +the rock must have fallen in a remarkable way indeed, for the cliff above +was slightly overhanging, and the falling boulder, which was held +accountable for the disaster, had carried away every vestige of wood-work +about the place, not leaving even a splinter or a chip. However, to the +credit of the builders, be it said that they had tidied up and swept very +nicely, for there was no sawdust to be seen anywhere, nor indeed, any +trace of carpentering work. The hut consequently resolved itself into a +semi-circular stone wall, very much out of the perpendicular, built +against a rock face. The chief architect, evidently a thoughtful person, +had not omitted to leave a door. But it was easier on the whole to step +over the wall, which I did, with as much scorn as Remus himself could have +thrown into the action when seeking to aggravate his brother Romulus. So +we entered into possession of the premises without, at any rate, the +trouble of any preliminary legal formalities. + +(M8) + +In the matter of sleeping out, all mountaineers pass, provided they keep +long enough at it, through three stages. In the early period, when imbued +with what has been poetically termed the "ecstatic alacrity" of youth, +they burn with a desire to undergo hardship on mountains. Possibly a +craving for sympathy in discomfort--that most universal of human +attributes--prompts them to spend their nights in the most unsuitable +places for repose. The practical carrying out of this tendency is apt to +freeze very literally their ardour; at least, it did so in our case. Then +follows a period during which the climber laughs to scorn any idea of +dividing his mountain expedition. He starts the moment after midnight and +plods along with a gait as free and elastic as that of a stage pilgrim or +a competitor in a six days' "go-as-you-please" pedestrian contest: for +those who have a certain gift of somnambulism this method has its +advantages. Finally comes a stage when the climber's one thought is to get +all the enjoyment possible out of his expedition and to get it in the way +that seems best at the time. Now again he may be found at times tenanting +huts, or the forms of shelter which are supposed to represent them. But +his manner is changed; he no longer travels burdened with the impedimenta +of his earlier days. He never looks at his watch now, except to ascertain +the utmost limit of time he can dwell on a view. With advancing years and +increasing Alpine wisdom, he derides the idea of accurately timing an +expedition. His pedometer is probably left at home; he eats whenever he is +hungry, and ceases to consider it a _sine qua non_ that he must return to +hotel quarters in time for dinner. Nor does he ever commit the youthful +folly of walking at the rate of five miles an hour along the mule path in +the valley or the high road at the end of an expedition, gaining thereby +sore feet and absolutely nothing else. When he has reached this stage, +however, he is considered _passe_; and when he has reached this stage he +probably begins really to appreciate to the full the depth of the charm to +be found in mountaineering. + +But I digress even as the driven pig. A miserable night did we spend +behind the stone wall. About 9 P.M. came a furious hail-storm: at 10 P.M. +rain fell heavily: at 11 P.M. snow began and went on till daybreak about 4 +A.M. At 5 A.M. we got up quite stiff and stark like a recently killed +villain of melodrama, when carried off the stage by four supers. By 6 A.M. +I had got into my boots. At 9 A.M. we swooped down once more on Franz at +the hotel at Saas, persuaded him to relinquish certain scavenging +occupations in which he was engaged, and to resume his post of waiter. A +day or two later we sought our shelter once more. No luxurious provisions +did we take with us. Some remarkable red wine, so sour that it forced one +involuntarily to turn the head round over the shoulder on drinking it, +filled one knapsack. The other contained slices of bread with parallel +strata of a greasy nature intervening. These were spoken of, when we had +occasion to allude to them, as sandwiches. The fat was found to be an +excellent emollient to my boots. + +(M9) + +The Suedlenzspitz, though tall, labours under the topographical +disadvantage of being placed in the company of giants. Close by, on the +north side, is the Nadelhorn (14,876 ft.), while to the south, at no great +distance, the Dom towers far above, reaching a height of 14,942 feet. In +the Federal map of Switzerland (which is not very accurate in its +delineation of the Saas district), the height of the Suedlenzspitz is +marked as 14,108 ft. North and south from the Suedlenzspitz, stretch away +well-marked, but not particularly sharp ridges, the northern being chiefly +of snow, and inclined at a moderate angle. To the east, a sharper rocky +ridge falls away, terminating below, after the fashion of a "rational" +divided skirt, in two undecided continuations which enclosed the Fall +glacier. Climbing up by this ridge, Mr. W. W. Graham ascended the mountain +in 1882. The "variation" is described as presenting very serious +difficulties. But in our day, the old-fashioned custom of ascending +mountains by the most obviously practicable way was still in vogue, and we +decided, therefore, to make for the northern buttress. Leaping over the +wall enclosing the ground-floor of our bivouac, we descended on to the +Hochbalm glacier, made our way across the upper snow basin, and in good +time reached the foot of the slope no great distance south of the +Nadelhorn. The view during this part of the walk is very characteristic of +the range. From almost any point of view, the traveller is surrounded on +three sides by a clearly marked amphitheatre of very beautifully formed +mountains. On the right, the shapely little Ulrichshorn rises up in a +self-sufficient manner, like a single artichoke in a vegetable dish. In +front is the mass of the Nadelhorn and Suedlenzspitz, while, looking back, +the view of the mountains on the east side of the Saas valley is one of +great and varied beauty. It must be confessed that these statements are +derived principally from a contemplation of the map, for, to tell the +truth, the recollection of the panorama we actually saw is rather +indistinct. This much, however, I may record with confidence; that in all +parts of the Saas district, the views struck me, in a day when I did not +very much look at them, as possessing strong individuality and the +greatest beauty. + +(M10) + +The Zermatt district may be still more striking, and they who have no time +to visit both, no doubt do wisely to seek the more hackneyed valley. But +for such as do not look upon guide-book statements as the dicta of an +autocrat, and can exercise a thousandth part of the independence of +judgment they manifest in the ordinary affairs of life, a brief deviation +to the Saas country will come as a revelation. After the crowd, dust, and +bustle of the highway to the recognised centre of the Alps, to turn aside +to this region is a relief, like stepping out of a crowded ball-room on to +a verandah, or gliding away in a gondola from the railway station at +Venice. Look, too, at the architecture of the great mountains here, and +the spectator will perceive how nature has succeeded to perfection in +achieving what all artists fail in doing; that is in designing, and in a +manner that precludes criticism, a pendant; and a pendant too to the +Zermatt panorama. The necessary object in the foreground of the +picture--which we all know to be an hotel--is provided. Who but nature would +think of framing a pure white picture in a setting of the soft green +pastures below, and the deep blue sky above? but here it is, and it is +perfect. Yet the blue of the sky is repeated in the picture, for the +towering seracs throw azure shadows on the satin-smooth snow slopes at +their feet. Rest, strength, eternal solidity above in the mountain forms +and crags; repose, softness, and the charm of a brightness below that must +yield and fade before long to gather force for fresh development and +renewal. No need to seek far for a parallel in our human world. Between +the two districts, Zermatt and Saas-Fee, there is but the difference +between the man who impresses at once by the force of character, and the +man who has to be studied and learned before we recognise that he is +something beyond the ordinary run of our fellow-creatures. + +(M11) + +Before leaving England we had made tolerably minute inquiries, but had +failed to discover any record of a previous ascent of the Suedlenzspitz, +though, as suggested by Mr. W. M. Conway, the mountain may have been +previously climbed by Mr. Chapman. Some uncertainty, therefore, whether we +should find any traces of previous climbers, gave the required piquancy to +the expedition. We made at once up the slope for a long rocky buttress, +and towards a part of the mountain down which the guides asserted stones +had been known to fall in the afternoon. This statement was probably made +with a view of encouraging their charge to greater exertions, for an old +sprained ankle compelled me to the continual necessity of putting my best +foot foremost in walking over difficult places. Still, the rocks were at +no point very formidable, and progress was rendered somewhat easier by the +fact that no critical companion was with me, so I felt at perfect liberty +to transport myself upwards in any style that happened to suit the +exigencies of the moment. I had not at that time quite passed the stage of +believing all that the guides asserted with reference to the climbing +capacities of the individual who pays them for assisting his locomotion, +and had a distinct idea that I mastered all the obstacles in a +particularly skilful manner. They said as much in fact, but reiterated +their compliments so often that I somewhat fear now that I must frequently +have given occasion for these remarks of approbation; remarks which I have +since observed are more frequently called forth to cover a blunder than to +praise an exhibition of science. Probably my progress was about as +graceful and sure as that of a weak-legged puppy placed for the first time +in its life on a frozen pond, or a cockroach seeking to escape from the +entrapping basin, for I had not then developed, in climbing rocks, the +adhesive powers of--say the chest, which longer practice will sometimes +furnish. We were accompanied by a porter of advanced years whose +conversational powers were limited by an odd practice of carrying heavy +parcels in his mouth. The day before he had carried up a large beam of +wood for the camp fire in this manner. I never met a man with so much jaw +and so little talk. He had apparently come out in order to practise +himself for the mastication of the Saas mutton, for at the end of the day +he would accept of nothing but a sum of two francs, for which I was very +thankful. Similar disinterestedness in men of his class is not often met +with nowadays. + +(M12) + +After awhile we left the buttress of rock and turned our attention to a +snow slope and made our way up its crest. Here steps were necessary but +there was no particular difficulty, for the slope resembled a modern +French drawing-room tragedy, in that it was as broad as it was long. We +had but to feel that the rope was taut, and could then look about with +security. In good time we stepped on to the ridge, and a glance upwards +showed that the way was easy enough. We could not but feel that if we were +to achieve the honour of a first ascent, such honour would be principally +due to the fact that we had subdivided the secondary peaks of the chain +more minutely than other travellers. The principle has been carried still +further in these latter days, and as any little pale fish that can be +caught and fried is considered whitebait, and any article that ladies +choose to attach to their heads is termed a bonnet, so any point that can +be climbed by an individual line of ascent is now held to be a separate +mountain. A considerable snow cornice hung over on the northern side of +the arete and great care was necessary, for the ridge itself was so broad +and easy, that less careful guides might have made light of it; but +Burgener, though he had already acquired a reputation for brilliancy and +dash, never suffered himself for one moment to lose sight of the two great +qualities in a guide, caution and thoroughness. At each step he probed the +snow in front of him with all the diligence of a chiffonnier. It followed +that our progress was somewhat slow, but it was none the less highly +instructive. The accurate sense of touch in probing doubtful snow with the +axe requires and deserves very much more practice than most people would +imagine. The unpractised mountaineer may climb with more or less ease a +difficult rock the first time he is brought face to face with it, but long +and carefully acquired experience is necessary before a man can estimate +with certainty the bearing power of a snow bridge with a single thrust of +the axe. Indeed many guides of reputation either do not possess or never +acquire the muscular sense necessary to enable them to form a reliable +opinion on this matter. As a rule, if the rope be properly used and such a +mistake be made, somebody plunges through, is hauled out again and no harm +is done; but there are occasions when serious accidents have happened, +when probably lives have been lost owing to want of skilled knowledge in +this detail of snow mountaineering. I have known guides who never failed +when they came to a treacherous-looking bridge, to give it one apparently +careless thrust with the axe and then walk across with perfect confidence; +and I have seen others do exactly the same and disappear suddenly to cool +regions below through the bridge; and _vice versa_. The unskilful prober +will make wide detours when he might go in safety, and the man of good +snow touch will avoid what looks sound enough: till in returning, perhaps +you see that the hard crust concealed but rotten things beneath: as in an +ill-made dumpling. It needs no small amount of training to judge between +the man who quickly and with certainty satisfies himself of the safety of +a particular snow passage, and the man who is too careless properly to +investigate it; yet without such experience the amateur is not really able +to decide whether a guide be a good or a bad one. + +(M13) + +Here and there along the ridge short rock passages gave a welcome relief +and at length we stood on the highest point of the ridge which culminates +so gently in the actual peak of the Suedlenzspitz. Our first care was to +scrape about and hunt diligently for traces of any previous party. No +relic of conviviality could be found, and as all the flat stones about +appeared to be in their natural state of disorder, we piled up some of +them into a neat little heap, and came to the conclusion that we had +performed very doughty deeds. But we were younger then. The sun was out, +there was a dead calm, and we lay for a while basking in the warmth and +planning a serious expedition for some future year. It may seem strange in +these days of rocket-like mountaineering when the climber, like the poet, +_nascitur non fit_, but the peak whose assault we discussed was none other +than the Matterhorn. It was no longer thought that goblins and elves +tenanted its crags; but although these spectres had not yet been +frightened away and turned out of house and home by sardine boxes and +broken bottles, some trace of prestige still adhered to the mountain. It +had not then, like a galley slave, been bound with chains, or, even as a +trussed chicken, girt about with many cords. Nor was the ascent of the +peak then talked about as carelessly as might be a walk along Margate +pier. Alexander Burgener had never been up the peak, though he was most +anxious to get an opportunity of doing so. I can remember well the advice +that was given to me on the top of the Suedlenzspitz to practise further on +a few less formidable mountains before attacking the fascinating Mont +Cervin itself. Alas for the old days and the old style of mountaineering! +It may be doubted whether such discussions often take place nowadays; but +then it was only my sixth season in the Alps. The following year we did +hatch out the project laid on the top of the Suedlenzspitz to climb the +Matterhorn together. To this moment I can remember as I write every detail +of the climb and every incident of the day as vividly as if it were +yesterday; and what a splendid expedition it was then. The old, old +fascination can never come back again in quite the same colours; better, +perhaps, that it should not. Is it always true that "a sorrow's crown of +sorrow is remembering happier things"? Surely there is a keenness and a +depth of pleasure to be found in recalling happiness, though it may never +return in its old form; and the memory of pleasure just toned with a trace +of sadness is one of the most profound emotions that can stir the human +heart. Go on and climb the Alps ye that follow: nowhere else will you find +the same pleasure. But it is changed, and in this amusement the old +fascination will never be quite the same to you. It may be, it will be, +equally keen, but as there is a difference between skating on virgin ice +and that which, though still good, is scored by marks of predecessors, so +will you fail to find a something which in the olden days of +mountaineering seemed always present. Go elsewhere if you will, and seek +fresh fields for mountaineering enterprise in the Caucasus, the Himalayas, +the Andes. There you will find the mountains have a charm of their own: +the mark is as good, but it is not the Alpine mark. That has been taken by +others. _Beati possidentes._ + +(M14) + +Judging by the nature of these sentiments it would seem that we must have +become pensive to the verge of slumber while on the summit. In descending, +we followed our morning's tracks, and scorning the seductive shelter of +the hut made straight down for the hotel. On this occasion we found Franz, +who was a man of varied resources and accomplishments, hanging his shirt, +which apparently he had just washed, up to dry. Our unexpected arrival +appeared to disconcert him a little, for the straitened nature of his +wardrobe precluded him, to his great disappointment, from appearing at +dinner in full costume. He conceived, however, an ingenious, though +somewhat transparent subterfuge, and made believe that he had got a bad +cold in the chest which compelled him to button his coat up tight round +the neck. In honour of our achievements he said he would go down to the +cellar and bring us up a curious old wine. The cellar consisted apparently +of a packing-case in a shed. Old the wine may have been; curious it +certainly was, for it possessed a strong heathery flavour and seemed to +turn hot very suddenly and stick fast in the throat like champagne at a +suburban charity ball. But nevertheless, with the remnants of the +blackbird or some other _rara avis_ made into a species of pie, we feasted +royally. + +A few days later we crossed over to Zermatt by the Alphubel Joch, a heavy +fall of snow having prevented any idea of making our contemplated assault +on the Dom. A Swiss gentleman of a lively nature and excessive loquacity +accompanied us. He was not an adroit snow walker, and disappeared on some +five or six occasions abruptly into crevasses. The moment, however, that +he got his head out again, he resumed his narrative at the exact point at +which it had been perforce broken off without exhibiting the least +discomposure. The subject to which his remarks referred I did not succeed +in ascertaining. We parted at a little chalet not far from the Riffel, +leaving our friend lying flat on his back on the grass contemplating the +sky with a fixed expression, with his hands folded over his waistcoat. He +may have been a poet inspired with a sudden desire for composition for +aught I know, or may have assumed this attitude as likely to facilitate +the absorption of a prodigious quantity of milk which he took at the +chalet. + +As we drew nearer to the odd mixture of highly coloured huts and +comfortable hotels that make up the village of Zermatt, a sense of +returning home crept over the mind, a consciousness of friends at hand, of +warm welcomes, mixed with the half presentiment that is always felt on +such occasions, that some change would be found; but happily it was not +so. The roadway was in its former state; the cobble stones a trifle more +irregular and worn more smooth, but still the same. The same guides, or +their prototypes, were sitting on the same wall drumming their heels. The +same artist was hard at work on a sketch of the Matterhorn in a field hard +by. The same party just returning from the Goerner Grat. The same man +looking out with sun-scorched face from the salon window and the same +click from the self-willed billiard balls on the uncertain table below. +Ay, and the same unmistakable heartfelt greetings and handshakings at the +door of the Monte Rosa. Churlish indeed should we have been if we had +sighed to think that we had met our warmest welcome at an inn. + + + + + + CHAPTER II. + + + THE ROTHHORN (MOMING) FROM ZERMATT + + + The Alpine dramatis personae--Mountaineering fact and romance--The + thirst for novelty and its symptoms--The first ascent of the + Moming--Preliminaries are observed--Rock _v._ snow mountains--The + amateur and the guide on rocks and on snow--The programme is made + out--Franz Andermatten--Falling stones in the gully--We smooth away + the difficulties--The psychological effects of reaching mountain + summits--A rock bombardment and a narrow escape--The youthful + tourist and his baggage--Hotel trials--We are interviewed--The + gushers. + + +The writer of an Alpine narrative labours under more disadvantages than +most literary folk--if authors generally will permit the association, and +allow that those who rush into print with their Alpine experiences have +the smallest claim to be dignified with such a title. One drawback is that +their accounts necessarily suffer from a paucity of characters. A five-act +tragedy supported, to use a theatrical expression, by two walking +gentlemen, one heavy lead and a low comedy "super," might possibly pall +upon an audience, but in Alpine literature, if I may be permitted to push +the metaphor a little further, not only is this the case but the unhappy +reader finds the characters like "barn stormers" playing now comedy, now +tragedy, and sometimes, it may possibly be added, dramas of romance. + +(M15) + +Again, in all matters absolutely relating to mountaineering in the Alps, +the narrator feels bound to stick to matters of fact. The drama of romance +must be excluded from his repertoire, or, at any rate, very cautiously +handled. I knew a man once, who on a single occasion went a-fishing in +Norway and caught a salmon. Naturally he was proud of the achievement, and +when in the company of brother sportsmen, would hold up his head, assume a +knowing air, and take part in the conversation, such conversation +relating, of course, to the size of the various fish those present had +caught. Such unswerving and prosaic veracity did my friend possess, that, +though sorely tempted as he must have been on many occasions, for ten +years he never added a single ounce to the weight of his fish. A writer, +an Alpine scribbler at any rate, is perhaps justified if he introduces +incidents into an account of an expedition which may not have happened on +that particular occasion, but which did happen on some other; and surely +he may, without impropriety, romance a little on such part of his work as +is not strictly geographical; for example, he may describe a chalet as +being dirty, when according to the peasant's standard of cleanliness it +would have been considered spotless, or describe a view as magnificent, +when as a matter of fact he paid no attention to it, but he would be +acting most culpably if he asserted that he got within fifty feet of the +summit, well knowing that he was not fifty feet from the base of the peak, +or if he stated that rocks were impossible, or an ice-fall impracticable, +when the sole reason for his failure consisted in his being possessed with +a strong desire to go back home. Of course a writer can only give his own +impressions, and these are much tempered by increased experience and the +lapse of time, but in taking up old accounts of Alpine work one not +unfrequently finds a good deal of description that requires toning down. +In these sketches I have striven honestly to render all that relates +intimately to the actual mountains as accurate as possible, and would +sooner be considered a dull than an unreliable historian. + +It is no easy matter to reproduce almost on the spot an account of a climb +with absolute accuracy, however strong the desire may be to do so. +Besides, a climber does not pursue his pastime with a note book +perpetually open before him. If he does, his mountaineering is more of a +business than he is usually willing to admit. The guide often, the amateur +commonly, fails to recognise exactly from a distance a line of ascent or +descent on rocks, though but just completed. Still more difficult is it to +work out the precise details of a particular route on a map or photograph. +The microscopist knows that the higher powers of his instrument give him +no additional insight into the structure of certain objects, but rather +mislead. Even so may my readers be asked to employ but gymnoscopic +criticism of these sketches. + +(M16) + +In September 1872 our party reached Zermatt from Chamouni by the +"high-level" route, a series of walks which no amount of familiarity will +ever deprive of their charm, and concerning which more will be found +elsewhere in this work. All Alpine climbers were then burning as fiercely +as they ever did to achieve something new. They had just begun to realise +that the stock of new peaks and passes was not inexhaustible, and that the +supply was wholly inadequate to meet the demand. This feeling showed +itself in various ways. Climbers looked upon each other with something of +suspicion and jealousy, and if any new expedition was being planned by any +one of their number the others would quickly recognise the state of +affairs. If an Alpine man were found secreted in obscure corners +conversing in a low voice with his guides and intent on a study of the +map, or if he returned evasive answers when questioned as to his plans, he +was at once set down as having, probably, a new expedition in mind. As for +the guides, they assumed at once airs of importance, as does a commencing +schoolboy newly arrayed in a tall hat, and exhibited such mystery that +their intentions were unmistakable. Their behaviour, indeed, may have been +partly due to the fact that the natural efforts of their comrades to +extract information was invariably accompanied by somewhat undue +hospitality, and their brotherly feelings were usually expressed in an +acceptably liquid form. As a rule such hospitality did not fail in its +object. Whether due to a certain natural leakiness of mind on the part of +the guides or not, I cannot say, but certainly the information always +oozed out, and the intentions of the party were invariably thoroughly well +known before the expedition actually started to achieve fresh glory. Every +one of the first-rate peaks in the Zermatt district had been ascended, +most of them over and over again, before 1872, but the Rothhorn was still +out of the pale of the Zermatt expeditions. Messrs. Leslie Stephen and F. +Craufurd Grove, who first climbed the peak, ascended it from Zinal, and +descended to the same place. It seemed to us, therefore, that if we could +prove the accessibility of the mountain from Zermatt, we should do +something more than merely climb the peak by a new route. The rocks looked +attractive, and the peak itself lay so immediately above Zermatt that it +seemed possible enough to make the ascent without sleeping out or +consuming any great amount of time. + +We went through all the necessary preliminary formalities. We assumed airs +of mystery at times; why, I know not. We inspected distant peaks through +the telescope. At other times we displayed an excess of candour, and +talked effusively about districts remote from that which we intended to +investigate. We climbed up a hill, and surveyed the face of our mountain +through a telescope, thereby wasting a day and acquiring no information +whatever. We pointed out to each other the parts of the mountain which +appeared most difficult, and displayed marvellous differences of opinion +on the subject, owing, as it is usually the case, to the circumstance that +we were commonly, in all probability, talking at the same time about +totally distinct parts of the peak. With the telescope I succeeded in +discovering to my own entire satisfaction a perfectly impracticable route +to the summit. Finally, in order that no single precaution might be +omitted to ensure success, we sent up the guides to reconnoitre--a most +useless proceeding. We had new nails put in our boots, ordered provisions, +uncoiled our rope and coiled it up again quite unnecessarily, gave +directions that we should be called at an unhallowed hour in the morning, +and went to bed under the impression that we should not be object in the +least to turn out at the time arranged. + +(M17) + +It is on the rock mountains of Switzerland that the acme of enjoyment is +to be found. Not that I wish to disparage the snow-peaks; but if a +comparison be instituted it is to most climbers, at any rate in their +youthful days, infinitely in favour of the rock. Of course it may be +argued that there are comparatively few mountains where the two are not +combined. But a mountaineer classifies peaks roughly as rock or snow, +according to the chief obstacles that each presents. A climber may +encounter serious difficulties in the way of bergschrunds, steep couloirs, +soft snow, and so forth; but if on the same expedition he meets with rocks +which compel him to put forth greater energies and perseverance than the +snow required, he will set the expedition down as a difficult rock climb, +simply, of course, because the idea of difficulty which is most vividly +impressed on his mind is in connection with that portion of his climb, and +_vice versa_. An undeniable drawback to the snow peaks consists in their +monotony. The long series of steps that have to be cut at times, or the +dreary wading for hours through soft or powdery snow, are not always +forgotten in the pleasure of overcoming the difficulties of a crevasse, +reaching the summit of a peak, or the excitement of a good glissade. It is +the diversity of obstacles that meet the rock climber, the uncertainty as +to what may turn up next, the doubt as to the possibility of finding the +friendly crack or the apposite ledge, that constitute some of the main +charms. Every step is different, every muscle is called into play as the +climber is now flattened against a rough slab, now abnormally stretched +from one hold to another, or folded up like the conventional pictures of +the ibex, and every step can be recalled afterwards with pleasure and +amusement as the mountain is climbed over again in imagination. + +(M18) + +But there is more than this; on rocks the amateur is much less dependent +on his guides and has much more opportunity of exercising his own powers. +It must be admitted that on rocks some amateurs are occasionally wholly +dependent not on, but from their guides, and take no more active share in +locomotion than does a bale of goods in its transit from a ship's hold to +a warehouse. Too often the amateurs who will not take the trouble to learn +something of the science and art of mountaineering are but an impediment, +an extra burden, as has been often said, to the guides. The guides have to +hack out huge steps for their benefit. The amateurs wholly trust to them +for steering clear of avalanches, rotten snow bridges, and the like. The +amateur's share in a snow ascent usually consists, in fact, either in +counselling retreat, insisting on progress, indicating impossible lines of +ascent, or in the highly intellectual and arithmetical exercise of +counting the number of steps hewn out to ensure his locomotion in the +proper direction. + +Place the unpaid climber, on the other hand, on rocks. Here the +probability is that a slip will entail no unpleasant consequences to +anyone but the slipper. The power of sustaining a sudden strain is so +enormously increased when the hands have a firm grip that the amateur can, +if he please, sprawl and scramble unaided over difficult places with +satisfaction to himself and usually without risk to anyone else; that is, +as soon as he has fully persuaded the guides (no easy task, I admit) that +the process of pulling vehemently at the rope, possibly encircling his +waist in a slip knot, is as detrimental to his equilibrium as it is to his +digestion. Guides, however, as has been hinted, do not acknowledge this +fact in animal mechanics, and their employers frequently experience as an +acute torture that compressing process which, more deliberately applied, +is not regarded by some as hurtful, but rather as a necessary +accompaniment of fashionable attire. When the amateur has succeeded in +overcoming the natural instinct of the guides to pull when there is no +occasion to do so, he becomes a unit in the party, a burden of course, and +a hindrance to some guides, but nothing to what he was on the snow. + +Sentiments similar to the above have not unfrequently been set forth in +print: they seldom, if ever, actuate the minds of mountaineers when +actually engaged in their pastime or when describing their exploits to +less skilled persons. + +There is great satisfaction, too, in translating one's self over a given +difficult rock passage without other assistance than that provided by +nature herself, and without surreptitious aid from one's neighbour in the +shape of steps. Then again, snow mountains are as inconsistent as cheap +aneroids. One day each step costs much labour and toil, and almost the +next perhaps the peak will allow itself to be conquered in one-tenth of +the time. Not that the writer seeks to argue that there is no pleasure to +be derived from snow mountains. It is to climbing _per se_ that these +remarks apply. After all, everyone has his own opinion; but he who has not +tasted the pleasures of a really difficult and successful rock +climb--especially if it be a new one--knows not what the Alps can really do +for his amusement. + +(M19) + +An expedition of suitable magnitude and difficulty was suggested by the +guides, viz. an ascent of the Rothhorn (or Moming) from the Zermatt side. +Mr. Passingham of Cambridge was at the time staying at the Monte Rosa +Hotel, and it was soon arranged that we should combine our forces. The +guides, on being asked their opinion as to the projected climb, reported +diplomatically that, given fine weather, the ascent would be difficult but +possible. This is the answer that the guides generally do give. We decided +to attempt the whole excursion in a single day, considering that a short +rest in the comparatively luxurious beds provided by M. Seiler was +preferable on the whole to more prolonged repose in a shepherd's hut; for +the so-called repose means usually a night of misery, and the misery under +these conditions is apt to make a man literally acquainted with strange +bed-fellows. At 2 in the morning we sought for the guides' room, to +superintend the packing of our provisions. It was not easy to find, but at +last we discovered a dingy little subterranean vault with one small window +tightly jammed up and covered with dust. Of this den there were two +occupants. One was employed silently in eating large blocks of a curious +boiled mess out of a pipkin. The other was smoking a very complicated +pipe, and sitting bolt upright on a bench with half a bottle of _vin +ordinaire_ before him. Why he was carousing thus in the small hours was +not evident. From these signs we judged correctly that the apartment was +devoted to the guides as a dining, smoking, club and recreation room. + +Our staff was already in attendance, and it struck both of us that the +success of the expedition was a foregone conclusion if it depended on the +excellence of our guides--Alexander Burgener, the embodiment of strength, +endurance, and pluck; Ferdinand Imseng, of activity and perseverance, +alone would have sufficed, but we had in addition a tough, weather-beaten, +cheery companion (for he was always a companion as well as a guide), Franz +Andermatten, ever sagacious, ever helpful and ever determined. It would be +hard to find a successor adequately to fill our old friend's place. It is +impossible to efface his memory from my mind, nor can I ever forget how on +that day he showed all his best qualities and contributed mainly to our +success.(1) The prologue is spoken; let us raise the curtain on the +comedy. + +(M20) + +The guides had already made their usual preparations for packing up--that +is to say, they had constructed a multiplicity of little paper parcels and +spread them about the room. As to the contents of these little parcels, +they were of course uncertain, and all had to be undone to make sure that +nothing had been omitted. A good deal of time was thus lost, and nothing +much was gained, except that we corrected the error of packing up a +handful of loose lucifers and two tallow dips with the butter and honey in +a glass tumbler. Then the parcels were stowed away in the knapsacks, the +straps of course all rearranged and ultimately replaced by odds and ends +of string. Eventually, at 3 A.M., we started, leaving the two occupants of +the guides' room still engaged in the same manner as when they first came +under observation, and walked up the narrow valley running due north of +Zermatt and leading towards the Trift Joch and the base of the mountain +for which we were making. Having journeyed for about half an hour, it was +discovered that the telescope had been left behind. Franz instantly +started off to get it; not because it was considered particularly +necessary, but chiefly on the ground that it is not orthodox to go on a +new expedition without a telescope. We stumbled up the narrow winding +path, and close below the moraine called our first halt and waited for +Franz's return. I selected a cool rock on which to complete the slumber +which had been commenced in bed and continued on a tilted chair in the +guides' room. After waiting an hour we decided to proceed, as no answer +was returned to our frequent shouts. Presently, however, a distant yell +attracted our attention, and we beheld, to our astonishment, the cheery +face of Franz looking down on us from the top of the moraine. Stimulated +by this apparition, we pushed on with great vigour, clambered up the +moraine, whose extreme want of cohesion necessitated a treadmill style of +progression, and having reached the top passed along it to the snow. Here +we bore first to the right, and then, working round, made straight for a +sharp-topped buttress which juts out at a right angle from the main mass +of the mountain. Arrived at a patch of rocks near the commencement of the +arete, we disencumbered ourselves of superfluous baggage; that is to say, +after the traditional manner of mountaineers, we discarded about +three-fourths of the impedimenta we had so laboriously dragged up to that +point, and of which at no subsequent period of the expedition did we make +the slightest use. Next, we prepared for such rock difficulties as might +present themselves, by buttoning up our coats as tight as was convenient, +and decorated our heads respectively with woollen extinguishers like unto +the covers placed by old maids over cherished teapots. + +It is a grand moment that, when the difficulty of an expedition opens out, +when you grasp the axe firmly, settle in to the rope, and brace up the +muscles for the effort of the hour: a moment probably the most pleasurable +of the whole expedition, when the peak towers clear and bright above, when +the climber realises that he is on the point of deciding whether he shall +achieve or fail in achieving a long wished for success, or what it may be +perhaps allowable to call a cutting-out expedition (for even mountain +climbers are prone to small jealousies). The excitement on nearing the +actual summit often rather fades away than increases, and the climber +lounges up the last few steps to the top with the same sort of nonchalance +that a guest invited to drink displays in approaching the bar. + +(M21) + +Dividing into two parties, we passed rapidly along the snow ridge which +abuts against the east face of the mountain. The cliffs of the Rothhorn +seem almost to overhang on this face, and were from our point of view +magnificent. On the right, too, the precipice is a sheer one, to employ a +not uncommon epithet. Without much difficulty we clambered up the first +part of the face of the mountain, taking a zigzag course towards the large +gully which is distinctly visible from the other side of the valley, and +which terminates above in a deep jagged notch in the ridge not far below +the summit. Gradually the climbing became more difficult, and it was found +necessary to cross the gully backwards and forwards on several occasions. +In so crossing we were exposed to some risk from falling stones; that is +to say, some chips and bits of rock on a few occasions went flying by +without any very apparent reason. In those days mountaineers were in the +habit of considering these projectiles as a possible source of risk. A +later generation would pass them by as easily as the stones passed by us, +and it is not now the fashion to consider such a situation as we were in +at all dangerous. It is difficult to see the reason why. Perhaps people's +heads are harder now than they were then. For the greater part of the time +we kept to the left or south side of the gully, and reaching the notch +looked right down upon the commencement of the Glacier du Durand, a fine +expanse of snowfield, singularly wild-looking and much crevassed. Turning +to the right, we ascended a short distance along the ridge, and then a +halt was called. The guides now proceeded to arrange a length of some +hundred feet of rope on the rocks above to assist in our return. The +process sorely tried our patience, and we were right glad when the signal +was given to go on again. We had now to leave the arete, to descend a +little, and so pass on to the west face of the mountain, and by this face +to ascend and gradually work back to the ridge. No doubt during this part +of the climb we made much the same mistake in judgment as had previously +been made on a memorable ascent of the Matterhorn, and crossed far more on +to the face than was really necessary or advisable. The mountain has since +the time when these lines were originally written passed through the +regular stages of gradual depreciation, and it is more difficult now to +realise that we considered it at the time very difficult. Probably, +however, subsequent travellers have improved considerably on the details +of the route we actually followed; at any rate the ascent is now +considered quite proper for a novice to attempt, at any rate by the novice +himself. We worked ourselves slowly along in the teeth of a biting cold +wind, and without finding the fixed rope necessary to assist our progress. +Reaching the ridge again, the way became distinctly easier, and we felt +now that the peak was at our mercy. Presently, however, we came to a huge +inverted pyramid of rock that tried rather successfully to look like the +summit, and we had some little difficulty in surmounting it. By dint of +strange acrobatic feats and considerable exertion we hoisted our leading +guide on to the top. It was fortunate for him perhaps that the seams of +his garments were not machine-sewn, or he would certainly have rent his +raiment. Finding, however, that the only alternative that offered when he +got to the top of the rock was to get down again on the other side, the +rest of us concluded that on the whole we should prefer to walk round. The +last few yards were perfectly easy, and at 1.30 P.M. we stood on the +summit enjoying a most magnificent view in every direction. + +(M22) + +It is a somewhat curious phenomenon, but one frequently remarked, that the +mountaineer's characteristics seem abruptly to change when he reaches the +summit of a peak. The impressionable, excitable person instantly becomes +preternaturally calm and prosaic, while those of lymphatic temperament +have not unfrequently been observed to develop suddenly rather explosive +qualities, and to yell or wave their hats without any very apparent +incitement thereto. Individuals whose detractors hold to be gifted with +poetic attributes have been heard to utter quite commonplace remarks, and +I have even known a phlegmatic companion so far forget himself, under +these modifying circumstances, as to make an excessively bad pun and laugh +very heartily at it himself, quite an unusual occurrence in a wag. Others +find relief for their feelings by punching their companions violently in +the back, or resorting to such horse-play as the area of the summit allows +scope for. Directly, however, the descent commences the climber resumes +his normal nature. The fact is, that in most cases, perhaps, the chief +pleasure of the expedition does not come at the moment when the climber +realises that he is about to undo, as it were, all his work of the day. +There is no real climax of an expedition, and, as has been said, it is +quite artificial to suppose that the enjoyment must culminate on reaching +the top. But still it is considered proper to testify to some unusual +emotional feelings. Some of the most enjoyable climbs that the mountaineer +can recall in after life, are not those in which he has reached any +particular point. Guides consider it becoming to evince in a somewhat +forced way the liveliness of their delight on completing an ascent. But +such joy as they exhibit is usually about as genuine and heartfelt as an +organ-grinder's grin, or a Lord Mayor's smile on receiving a guest whom he +does not know and who has merely come to feed at his expense. + +The wind was too cold to permit of a very long stay on the summit, and +having added a proper number of stones to the cairn, a ceremony as +indispensable as the cutting of a notch in the mainmast when the +traditional fisherman changes his shirt, we descended rapidly to the point +where it was necessary to quit the ridge. Down the first portion of the +steep rock slope we passed with great caution, some of the blocks of stone +being treacherously loose, or only lightly frozen to the face. + +(M23) + +We had arrived at the most difficult part of the whole climb, and at a +rock passage which at that time we considered was the nastiest we had ever +encountered. The smooth, almost unbroken face of the slope scarcely +afforded any foot-hold, and our security almost entirely depended on the +rope we had laid down in our ascent. Had not the rope been in position we +should have varied our route, and no doubt found a line of descent over +this part much easier than the one we actually made for, even without any +help from the fixed cord. Imseng was far below, working his way back to +the arete, while the rest of the party were holding on or moving but +slowly with faces turned to the mountain. Suddenly I heard a shout from +above; those below glanced up at once: a large flat slab of rock, that had +afforded us good hold in ascending, but proved now to have been only +frozen in to a shallow basin of ice, had been dislodged by the slightest +touch from one of the party above, and was sliding down straight at us. It +seemed an age, though the stone could not have had to fall more than ten +feet or so, before it reached us. Just above me it turned its course +slightly; Franz, who was just below, more in its direct line of descent, +attempted to stop the mass, but it ground his hands against the rock and +swept by straight at Imseng. A yell from us hardly awoke him to the +danger: the slab slid on faster and faster, but just as we expected to see +our guide swept away, the rock gave a bound for the first time, and as, +with a startled expression, he flung himself against the rock face, it +leapt up and, flying by within a few inches of his head, thundered down +below. A moment or two of silence followed, and then a modified cheer from +Imseng, as subdued as that of a "super" welcoming a theatrical king, +announced his safety, and he looked up at us with a serious expression on +his face. Franz's escape had been a remarkably lucky one, but his hands +were badly cut about and bruised. In fact it was a near thing for all of +us, and the mere recollection will still call up that odd sort of thrill a +man experiences on suddenly recollecting at 11 P.M. that he ought to have +dined out that evening with some very particular people. Had not the rock +turned its course just before it reached Franz, and bounded from the face +of the mountain over Imseng's head, one or more of the party must +unquestionably have been swept away. The place was rather an exceptional +one, and the rock glided a remarkably long distance without a bound, but +still the incident may serve to show that falling stones are not a wholly +imaginary danger. + +(M24) + +It would have been difficult, with the elementary knowledge of +mountaineering that I now see we possessed at that day, to have descended +without using the attached rope, and quite out of the question for anyone +possessed of a proper respect for his suit of dittos to have done so. In +this latter respect we had to exercise economical caution: for we had no +very great store at the hotel or many changes of raiment. It is generally +possible to gauge pretty accurately an Alpine traveller's experience by +the amount of luggage he takes on a tour. Some tourists, following the +advice given in the "Practical Guide Book" (a disconnected work written in +the style of Mr. Jingle's conversation, but much in favour at one time), +were in the habit of travelling with one suit of clothes and a portable +bath. The latter, though they took it with them, they seldom took more +than once; at the best it was of comparatively little use as an article of +apparel, but imparted an aromatic flavour to anything packed up in its +immediate neighbourhood. In those youthful days we considered, forsooth, +that a little leathern wallet adequately replaced a portmanteau, and in +transporting luggage did not always act on the sound commercial maxim that +you should never do anything for yourself which a paid person might do +equally well for you; consequently a heavy rain shower reduced the +traveller to inactivity, and an oversight on the part of the laundress +entailed consequences that it is not permissible to mention. + +Meanwhile our turn had come to move on. A zigzagging crack, which was too +narrow to admit of anything but a most uncomfortable position, afforded +the only hand and foot hold on which we could rely. Our gloveless hands, +clutching at the rope, cooled down slowly to an unpleasant temperature +that rendered it doubtful whether they were attached to the arms or not, +and we began to wish we had gone down the Zinal side of the mountain. +However, Imseng wormed himself along the rocks, to which he adhered with +the tenacity of a lizard, and finally reached the end of our rope and a +region of comparative safety. We followed his example slowly, and, having +joined him, seated ourselves on some rocks inappropriately designed for +repose, and finished off the food we had with us. Climbing carefully down +the east face of the mountain, we reached the snow ridge and passed +rapidly along it, our spirits rising exuberantly as we looked back on the +vanquished peak. As usually happens, the guides had entirely forgotten the +place where they had concealed our baggage on the ascent, and in fact had +hidden it so carefully that they had some difficulty in finding it when +they came to the spot. It is curious to note how often the instinct of +guides, so much talked about, is at fault in this matter, and how +systematically they are in the habit of carrying up on the mountains +superfluous articles, hiding them with entirely unnecessary precautions, +and subsequently forgetting the whole transaction. + +(M25) + +While they searched about for their cache we enjoyed the use of tobacco, +if such an expression be allowable in the case of some curious stuff +purchased in the valley. Still, as the packet in which it was contained +was labelled "Tabak," we considered it to be such. Being indulgently +disposed, and not being profound botanists, poetic license alone enabled +us to imagine that + + "We soared above + Dull earth, in those ambrosial clouds like Jove, + And from our own empyrean height + Looked down upon Zermatt with calm delight." + +(M26) + +It may have been so; it gave me a sore throat. Descending rapidly, we +reached the Monte Rosa Hotel at 7 P.M., in an exultant frame of mind, a +ragged condition of attire, and a preposterous state of hunger. The whole +time occupied in the climb was sixteen hours. Of this an hour was wasted +while we were waiting for the telescope, and three-quarters of an hour was +spent in arranging the rope, by the aid of which we descended. Probably in +actual climbing and walking we employed rather under thirteen hours; but +the snow was in excellent order, and we descended on the whole very +rapidly. Our trials were not over for the day, when we reached the hotel. +Two arch young things had prepared an ambuscade and surprised us +successfully at the door of the hotel. Sweetly did they gush. "Oh! where +had we been?" We said we had been up in the mountains, indicating the +general line of locality with retrospective thumb. "Oh! wasn't it +fearfully dangerous? Weren't we all tied tightly together?" (as if, on the +principle of union being strength, we had been fastened up and bound like +a bundle of quill pens). "Oh! hadn't we done something very wonderful?" +The situation was becoming irritating. "Oh! didn't we have to drag +ourselves up precipices by the chamois horns on the tops of our sticks?" +"No indeed----" "Oh! really, now, that guide there" (a driver with +imperfectly buttoned garments who was sitting on the wall with a vacuous +look) "told us you were _such_ wonderful climbers." It was becoming +exasperating. "And oh! we wanted to ask you so much, for you know all +about it. _Do_ you think we could walk over the Theodule? Papa" (great +heavens! he must be a nonagenarian) "thinks we should be so foolish to +try. Could you persuade him?" "Well, really----" "Wouldn't the precipices +make us dreadfully giddy?" "No, no more than you are now." "Oh! thank you +so much. And you really won't tell us what awful ascent you have been +making?" It was maddening. "After dinner perhaps?" "Oh! thank you. Oh! +Sustie" (this to each other; they both spoke together: probably the names +were Susie and Tottie), "won't that be delightful?" By dexterous +manoeuvring we escaped these gushing Circes during the evening. Happening +to pass later on by the open door of the little _salon_, the following +remark was overheard: "My dear, the conceit of these climbing objects is +quite dreadful. They do nothing but flourish their nasty sticks and ropes +about: they want the whole place to themselves" (we had been sitting on +wooden chairs in the middle of the high street, near an unsavoury heap of +refuse), "and they talk, talk, talk, my dear, all day and all night about +what they have been doing in the mountains and of their nonsensical +climbs. And what frights they look. I think they are perfectly horrid." +Can the voice have been that of the gusher? + + + + + + CHAPTER III. + + + EARLY ATTEMPTS ON THE AIGUILLE DU DRU + + + The Alps and the early mountaineers--The last peaks to + surrender--The Aiguille du Dru--Messrs. Kennedy and Pendlebury's + attempt on the peak--One-day expeditions in the Alps and thoughts + on huts and sleeping out--The Chamouni guide system--A word on + guides, past and present--The somnolent landlord and his + peculiarities--Some of the party see a chamois--Doubts as to the + peak and the way--The duplicity of the Aiguille deceives + us--Telescopic observations--An ill-arranged glacier--Franz and his + mighty axe--A start on the rocks in the wrong direction--Progress + reported--An adjournment--The rocks of the lower peak of the + Aiguille du Dru--Our first failure--The expedition resumed--A new + line of ascent--We reach the sticking point--Beaten back--The results + gained by the two days' climbing. + + +(M27) + +Accounts of failures on the mountains in books of Alpine adventure are as +much out of place, according to some critics, as a new hat in a crowded +church. Humanly speaking, the possession of this head-gear under such +circumstances renders it impossible to divert the thoughts wholly from +worldly affairs. This, however, by the way. Now the pioneers of the Alps, +the Stephenses, the Willses, the Moores, the Morsheads, and many others, +had used up all new material with alarming rapidity, I might say voracity, +before the climbing epoch to which the present sketches relate. There is +an old story of a man who arrived running in a breathless condition on a +railway platform just in time to see the train disappearing. "You didn't +run fast enough, sir," remarked the porter to him. "You idiot!" was the +answer, "I ran plenty fast enough, but I didn't begin running soon +enough." Even so was it with the climbers of our generation. They climbed +with all possible diligence, but they began their climbing too late. +Novelty, that is the desire for achieving new expeditions, was still +considered of paramount importance, but unfortunately there was very +little new material left. It is difficult to realise adequately now the +real veneration entertained for an untrodden peak. A certain amount of +familiarity seemed indispensable before a new ascent was even seriously +contemplated. It had occurred to certain bold minds that the aiguilles +around Chamouni might not be quite as bad as they looked. In 1873 the +chief of the still unconquered peaks of the Mont Blanc district were the +Aiguille des Charmoz, the Aiguille Blaitiere, the Aiguille du Geant, the +Aiguille Peuteret, the Aiguille du Dru, and a few other minor points. All +of these have since been captured, some of them bound in chains. Opinions +differed considerably as to their accessibility. Some hopeful spirits +thought that by constantly "pegging away" they might be scaled; others +thought that the only feasible plan would be indeed to peg away, but were +of opinion that the pegs should be of iron and driven into the rock. Such +views naturally lead to discussions, sometimes rather heated, as to +whether mountaineering morality might fitly tolerate such aids to the +climber. Of all the peaks mentioned above, the Aiguille du Dru and the +Aiguille du Geant were considered as the most hopeful by the leading +guides, though the older members of that body held out little prospect of +success. It is a rather curious fact that the majority of the leading +guides who gave their opinions to us in the matter thought that the +Aiguille du Geant was the more promising peak to attack. Subsequent +experience has proved that they were greatly in error in this judgment. +The Aiguille du Geant has indeed been ascended, but much more aid than is +comprised in the ordinary mountaineer's equipment was found necessary. In +fact, the stronghold was not carried by direct assault, but by sapping and +mining. There is a certain rock needle in Norway which, I am told, was +once, and once only, ascended by a party on surveying operations bent. No +other means could be found, so a wooden structure was built up around the +peak, such as may be seen investing a dilapidated church steeple; and the +mountain, like the Royal Martyr of history, yielded up its crowning point +at the scaffold. We did not like the prospect of employing any such +architectural means to gain our end and the summit, and, from no very +clearly defined reasons, turned our attention chiefly to the Aiguille du +Dru. Perhaps the prominent appearance of this Aiguille, and the fact that +its outline was so familiar from the Montanvert, gradually imbued us with +a certain sense of familiarity, which ultimately developed into a notion +that if not actually accessible it might at least be worth trying. It +seemed too prominent to be impossible; from its height--12,517 feet +only--the mountain would doubtless not attract much attention, were it not +so advantageously placed. Thousands of tourists had gazed on its +symmetrical form: it had been photographed, stared at through binoculars, +portrayed in little distorted pictures on useless work-boxes, trays and +other toy-shop gimcracks, more often than any other mountain of the chain, +Mont Blanc excepted. Like an undersized volunteer officer, it no doubt +made the most of its height. But in truth the Aiguille du Dru is a +magnificent mountain form, with its vast dark precipices on the north +face, with its long lines of cliff, broken and jagged and sparsely +wrinkled with gullies free from even a patch or trace of snow. Point after +point, and pinnacle after pinnacle catch the gaze as we follow the edge of +the north-west "Kamm," until the eye rests at last on the singularly +graceful isosceles triangle of rock which forms the peak. It is spoken of +lightly as merely a tooth of rock jutting up from the ridge which +culminates in the Aiguille Verte, but when viewed from the Glacier de la +Charpoua it is obviously a separate mountain; at any rate it became such +when the highest point of the ridge, the Aiguille Verte, had been climbed +by somebody else. The cleft in the ridge on the right side of the main +mass of the Aiguille du Dru is a very deep one as seen from the glacier, +and the sharp needle of rock which is next in the chain is a long way from +the Aiguille du Dru itself. North and south the precipices run sheer down +to the glaciers beneath. The mountain has then four distinct sides, three +of them running down to great depths. Thus, even in the prehistoric days +of Alpine climbing, it had some claim to individuality and might fairly be +considered as something more than, as it were, one unimportant pinnacle on +the roof of some huge cathedral. Perhaps, however, repeated failures to +ascend the mountain begot undue veneration and caused an aspiring climber +to look with a prejudiced eye on its dimensions. + +(M28) + +So far as I know, the mountain had never been assailed till 1873, when +Messrs. Pendlebury and Kennedy made an attempt. Mr. R. Pendlebury has +kindly furnished me with notes of the climb, which I may be allowed to +reproduce nearly in his own words:--Two parties started simultaneously for +the expedition. One was composed of Messrs. Kennedy and Marshall, with the +guides Johann Fischer and Ulric Almer of Grindelwald; the other party +consisted of the Rev. C. Taylor, Messrs. W. M. and R. Pendlebury, with the +guides Hans Baumann, Peter Baumann, and Edouard Cupelin. The +first-mentioned party slept at the Montanvert, while the others enjoyed +themselves in a bivouac high up on the side of the Glacier de la Charpoua +between the Aiguille du Dru and the Aiguille Moine. This Glacier de la +Charpoua, it may be mentioned, is sometimes called the Glacier du Chapeau. + +(M29) + +The bivouac appears to have been so comfortable that Mr. Pendlebury and +his friends did not take advantage of their start. The Montanvert +detachment, who found no such inducement to stay one moment longer than +was absolutely necessary(2) in their costly quarters, caught them up the +next morning, and the whole party started together. Mr. Kennedy's guides +kept to the left of the Glacier de la Charpoua, which looks more broken up +than the right-hand side, but apparently proved better going. This, +however, it should be observed, was in 1873, and these hanging glaciers +alter marvellously in detail from year to year, though always preserving +from a distance the same general features. On the same principle, at the +proper distance, a mother may be mistaken for her daughter, especially by +a judicious person. But on drawing near, however discreet the observer may +be, he is yet conscious of little furrows, diminutive wrinkles, and +perhaps of a general shrinkage not to be found in the more recent +specimen. Speaking very generally, I should say that these glaciers are, +on the whole, easier to traverse than they used to be: at any rate my own +personal observation of this particular little glacier extends over a +period of some years, and the intricacies--it is hardly proper to call them +difficulties--were distinctly less towards the end of the time than they +were at the beginning. Of course a different interpretation might be put +upon such an opinion: with the evolution of mountaineering skill the +complexity of these crumpled up snow-fields may seem to have disentangled, +but I am assured that in this particular case it was not so. + +(M30) + +This digression must be pardoned. It arose naturally from the circumstance +that the route Mr. Kennedy adopted would have proved, at any rate in later +years, a digression from the best way. Mr. Pendlebury's party went +straight up, keeping, that is, to the right-hand side of the glacier. +Towards the upper part the snow slopes became steeper, and soon some +step-cutting was required. The object in view was to reach the lowest +point in the ridge between the Aiguille du Dru and the Aiguille Verte. It +was thought that, by turning to the left from the col, it might be +possible to reach the summit by the eastern arete. The col itself from +below seemed easily attainable by means of a narrow zigzagging gully, +interrupted here and there, that runs down from the summit of the ridge. +Ascending by the rocks on the left of the gully the party made for some +little way good progress, but then a sudden change came over the scene. +After a consultation, it was proposed that the guides Hans Baumann, Peter +Baumann, and Fischer should go on a little by themselves and make for the +ridge, which they estimated lay about half an hour above them. They were +then to examine the rocks above and to bring back a report. The rest of +the party remained where they were, and disported themselves as +comfortably as circumstances would permit. Hour after hour, however, +passed away, and the three guides seemed to make but little progress. They +returned at last with the melancholy tidings that they had climbed nearly +up to the ridge and had found the rocks very difficult and dangerous. (It +should be noted that the line of attack chosen on this occasion--the first +serious attempt on the peak--was devised by Hans Baumann, and it says much +for his sagacity that this very route proved years afterwards to be the +right one.) Questioned as to the advisability of proceeding upwards, the +guides employed their favourite figure of speech and remarked that not for +millions of francs would they consent to try again. Hans Baumann asserted +that he had never climbed more difficult rocks. This opinion, as Mr. +Pendlebury suggested at the time, was probably owing to the fact that the +cliffs above were covered with snow and glazed with ice, and this +condition of the mountain face made each step precarious. The amateurs of +the party were of opinion that the ridge would prove attainable later in +the season or in exceptionally fine weather. As to the possibility of +climbing the rocks above--that is to say, the actual peak--none of the party +were able to come to any very positive conclusion. At a rough guess it was +estimated that the party halted between two and three hundred feet below +the ridge. On the presentation of the guides report the whole caravan +turned back and reached Chamouni safely, but not entirely without +incident, for the monotony of the descent and Mr. Taylor's head were +broken by the fall of a big stone. This little accident, Mr. Pendlebury +remarked with disinterested cheerfulness, was but a trifle. I have not +been able to ascertain Mr. Taylor's views on the subject. + +When our party first essayed the ascent we knew none of the above +particulars, save only that some mountaineers had endeavoured to reach the +ridge but had failed to ascend to any great height. Of the actual cause of +their ill success, and whether it were owing to the unpropitious elements +or to the actual difficulties encountered, we were unaware. + +(M31) + +At the time of which I am writing, a somewhat novel mode of ascending +mountains was coming into vogue, which consisted in waiting for a suitable +day at headquarters, starting at unheard-of hours, and completing the +expedition in one day--that is, within twenty-four hours. It was argued in +support of this plan, that it was economical and that bivouacking was but +a laborious and expensive method of obtaining discomfort. There are, said +the advocates of the method, but few mountains in the Alps which cannot be +ascended with much greater comfort in one day than in two. The day's climb +is much more enjoyable when it is possible to start from sleeping quarters +in which it is possible to sleep. The argument that repose in hotel beds, +though undoubtedly more luxurious, was of comparatively little use if +there were no time to enjoy it, was held to be little to the purpose. Some +enthusiasts were wont to state that passing a night in a chalet, or those +magnified sentry boxes called cabanes, constituted half the enjoyment on +the expedition. This is a little strong--like the flavour of the +cabanes--and if it were actually so the whole pleasure would be but small. +The camper out arises in the morning from his delicious couch of soft +new-mown hay in a spotty and sticky condition, attended with considerable +local irritation, and feeling like a person who has recently had his hair +cut, with a pinafore but loosely tied around his neck. Porters, like +barbers, exhibit a propensity for indulging in garlic immediately before +pursuing their avocation, which is not without discomfort to their +employers. (And here I may note as a psychological fact that one action of +this permeating vegetable is to induce confidential propensities in the +consumer. The point may be deemed worthy of investigation, by personal +experiment, by botanists and students of materia medica, men who in the +interests of science are not prone to consider their personal comfort and +finer sensibilities.) Again, in unsettled weather a fine day is often +wasted by journeying up in the afternoon to some chalet, or hovel, merely +to enjoy the pleasure of returning the following morning in the rain. +There is some force too in the argument that but little actual time is +gained by the first day's performance, for it is very difficult to start +at anything like the prearranged hour for departure from a camp. An +immensity of time is always spent in lighting the morning fire, preparing +breakfast, and getting under way. On the other side, some little time is +undoubtedly saved by discarding the wholly superfluous ceremony of +washing, a process at once suggesting itself to the mind of the Briton +abroad if he beholds a basin and cold water. + +The sum of the argument would seem to be that camping out in some one +else's hut is but an unpleasant fiction; that if the climber chooses to go +to the expense, he can succeed in making himself a trifle less comfortable +in his own tent or under a rock than he would be in an hotel; and that he +is the wisest man who refrains from bivouacking when it is not really +necessary and is able to make the best of matters when it is: and +undoubtedly for many of the recognised expeditions it is essential to have +every possible minute of spare time in hand. + +(M32) + +We were naturally rather doubtful as to the successful issue of our +expedition, at any rate at the first attempt, and we therefore impressed +upon the guides the necessity of not divulging the plan. The secret, +however, proved to be so big that it was too much for two, and they +imparted consequently so much of the information as they had not adequate +storage for in their own minds to any who chose to listen. Consequently +our intentions were thoroughly well known before we started. There were in +those days, perhaps, more good guides, at any rate there were fewer bad +ones, in Chamouni than are to be found nowadays. We could not, however, +obtain the services--even if we had desired them--of any of the local +celebrities. As a matter of fact, we were both of opinion that a training +in climbing, such as is acquired among the Oberland and Valais men by +chamois hunting and constant rock work, would be most likely to have +produced the qualities which would undoubtedly be needed on the aiguilles. + +The question of the efficiency of the Chamouni guides and of the Chamouni +guide system, a question coeval with mountaineering itself, was burning +then as fiercely as it does now. The Alpine Club had striven in vain to +improve matters; they had pointed out that ability to answer a kind of +mountaineering catechism did not in itself constitute a very reliable test +of a peasant's power; they had pointed out too that the plan of electing a +"guide chef" from the general body of guides was one most open to abuse, +one sure to lead to favouritism and injustice, and one obviously ill +calculated to bring to the front any specially efficient man. But +unhappily the regulations of the body of guides were, and still are, +entangled hopelessly in the French equivalent for red tape. Jealousy and +mistrust of the German-speaking guides, whom serious mountaineers were +beginning to import in rather formidable numbers, were beginning to awaken +in the simple bosoms of the Savoyard peasants; and our proceedings were +consequently looked upon with contemptuous disfavour by those who had any +knowledge of our project. + +(M33) + +On August 18, 1873, we started. Our guides were Alexander Burgener as +leader, Franz Andermatten, the best of companions, our guide, our friend, +and sometimes our philosopher, as second string, while a taciturn porter +of large frame and small mind, who came from the Saas valley, completed +the tale. Of Burgener's exceptional talent in climbing difficult rocks we +had had already good proof, and no doubt he was, and still is, a man of +remarkable daring, endurance, and activity on rocks. I had reached then +that stage in the mountaineering art at which a man is prone to consider +the guide he knows best as, beyond all comparison, the best guide that +could possibly exist. The lapse of years renders me perhaps better able +now to form a dispassionate judgment of Burgener's capacity and skill. +Both were very great. I have seen at their work most of the leaders in +this department. Burgener never had the marvellous neatness and finish so +characteristic of Melchior Anderegg, who, when mountaineering has passed +away into the limbo of extinct sports, such as bear-baiting, croquet, and +pell-mell, will, if he gets his deserts, even by those who remember +Maguignaz, Carrel, Croz, and Almer, still be spoken of as _the_ best guide +that ever lived. Nor was Burgener gifted with the same simple unaffected +qualities which made Jakob Anderegg's loss so keenly felt, nor the +lightness and agility of Rey or Jaun; but he united well in himself +qualities of strength, carefulness, perseverance and activity, and +possessed in addition the numerous attributes of observation, experience, +and desire for improvement in his art which together make up what is +spoken of as the natural instinct of guides. These were the qualities that +made him a first-rate, indeed an exceptional, guide. _Nunc liberavi animam +meam._ There is an old saying, involving a sound doctrine, that + + When you flatter lay it on thick; + Some will come off, but a deal will stick. + +The porter proved himself a skilful and strong climber, but he was as +silent as an oyster and, like that bivalve mollusc when the freshness of +its youth has passed off, was perpetually on the gape. + +(M34) + +A hot walk--it always is hot along this part--took us up to the Montanvert. +The moonlight threw quaint, fantastic shadows along the path and made the +dewy gossamer filaments which swung from branch to branch across the track +twinkle into grey and silver; and anything more aggravating than these +spiders' threads at night it is hard to imagine. What earthly purpose +these animals think they serve by this reckless nocturnal expenditure of +bodily glue it is hard to say: possibly the lines are swung across in +order that they may practise equilibrium; possibly the threads may serve +as lines of escape and retreat after the male spinners have been a-wooing. +The atmosphere through the wood was as stuffy as a ship's saloon in a +storm, and we were right glad to reach the Montanvert at 3.30 A.M. Here, +being athirst, we clamoured for refreshment. The landlord of the +ramshackle hostelry at once appeared in full costume; indeed I observed +that during the summer it was impossible to tell from his attire whether +he had arisen immediately from bed or no. He seemed to act on the +principle of the Norwegian peasant, who apparently undresses once a year +when the winter commences, and resumes his garments when the light once +more comes back and the summer season sets in. Our friend had cultivated +to great perfection the art of half sleeping during his waking hours--that +is, during such time as he might be called upon to provide entertainment +for man and beast. Now at the Montanvert, during the tourists' season, +this period extended over the whole twenty-four hours. It was necessary, +therefore, in order that he might enjoy a proper physiological period of +rest, for him to remain in a dozing state--a sort of aestival +hybernation--for the whole time, which in fact he did; or else he was by +nature a very dull person, and had actually a very restricted stock of +ideas. + +The landlord produced at once a battered teapot with a little sieve +dangling from its snout, which had been stewing on the hob, and poured out +the contained fluid into two stalked saucers of inconvenient diameter. +Stimulated by this watery extract, we entered into conversation together. +The sight of a tourist with an ice axe led by a kind of reflex process to +the landlord's unburdening his mind with his usual remarks. Like other +natives of the valley he had but two ideas of "extraordinary" expeditions. +"Monsieur is going to the Jardin?" he remarked. "No, monsieur isn't." +"Then beyond a doubt monsieur will cross the Col du Geant?" he said, +playing his trump card. "No, monsieur will not." "Pardon--where does +monsieur expect to go to?" "On the present occasion we go to try the +Aiguille du Dru." The landlord smiled in an aggravating manner. "Does +monsieur think he will get up?" "Time will show." "Ah!" The landlord, who +had a chronic cold in the head, searched for his pockethandkerchief, but +not finding it, modified the necessary sniff into one of derision, and +then demanded the usual exorbitant price for the refreshment, amounting to +about five times the value of the teapot, sieve and all. We paid, and left +him chuckling softly to himself at our insane idea, as he replaced the +teapot on the hob in readiness for the next arrival. That landlord, though +physically sleepy, was still wide awake in matters of finance. He once +charged me five francs for the loan of a secondhand collection of holes +which he termed a blanket. + +(M35) + +We got on to the glacier at the usual point and made straight across the +slippery hummocks to the grass slope encircling the base of the Aiguille +du Dru and the Glacier de la Charpoua. The glacier above gives birth to a +feeble meandering little stream which wanders fitfully down the mountain +side. At first we kept to the left, but after a while crossed the little +torrent, and bearing more to the right plodded leisurely up the steep +grass and rock slope. We had made good progress when of a sudden Franz +gave a loud whistle and then fell flat down. The other two guides +immediately followed his example and beckoned to us with excited +gesticulations to behave in a similarly foolish manner. Thereupon we too +sat down, and enquired what the purport of this performance might be. It +turned out that there was a very little chamois about half a mile off. +Knowing that it would be impossible to induce the guides to move on till +the animal had disappeared, we seized the opportunity of taking an early +breakfast. The guides meanwhile wriggled about on their stomachs, with +eyes starting out of their heads, possessed by an extraordinary desire to +miss no single movement of the object of their attention. "See, it moves," +said Franz in a whisper. "Himmel! it is feeding," said Burgener. "It must +be the same that Johann saw three weeks ago." "Ach! no, that was but a +little one" (no true chamois hunter will ever allow that a brother +sportsman can possibly have set eyes on a larger animal than himself). +"Truly it is fine." "Thunder weather! it moves its head." In their +excitement I regretted that I could not share, not being well versed in +hunting craft: my own experience of sport in the Alps being limited to +missing one marmot that was sitting on a rock licking its paws. In due +course the chamois walked away. Apparently much relieved by there being no +further necessity to continue in their former uncomfortable attitudes, the +guides sat up and fell to a warm discussion as to the size of the animal. +A chamois is to a guide as a fish to the baffled angler or the last new +baby to a monthly nurse, and is always pronounced to be beyond question +the finest that has ever been seen. To this they agreed generally, but +Franz, whose spirits had suddenly evaporated, now shook his head dismally, +with the remark that it was unlucky to see a single chamois, and that we +should have no success that day. Undaunted by his croaking, we pursued our +way to the right side of the glacier, while our guide, who had a ballad +appropriate to every occasion, sang rather gaspingly a tremulous little +funeral dirge. We worked well across to the right, in order to obtain the +best possible view of the Aiguille, and halted repeatedly while discussing +the best point at which to attack the rocks. While thus engaged in +reconnoitring close under the cliffs of the ridge running between the +Aiguille Moine and the Aiguille Verte, a considerable block of ice, +falling from the rocks above, whizzed past just in front of us and capered +gaily down the slope. Hereupon we came rather rapidly to the conclusion +that we had better proceed. Half an hour further on we reached the top of +a steep little snow slope, and a point secure from falling stones and ice. +Recognising that we must soon cross back to the rocks of the Dru, we tried +to come to a final conclusion as to the way to be chosen. As usual, +everybody pointed out different routes: even a vestry meeting could hardly +have been less unanimous. Some one now ventured to put a question that had +been troubling in reality our minds for some time past, viz. which of the +peaks that towered above us was really the Aiguille du Dru. On the left +there were two distinct points which, though close together, were +separated apparently by a deep rift, and some distance to the right of the +col which the previous party had tried to reach, a sharp tooth of rock +towered up to a considerable height. Evidently, however, from its position +this latter needle could not be visible from Chamouni or from the +Montanvert. Again, it was clear that the mass comprising the two points +close together must be visible from the valley, but which of the two was +the higher? Alexander gave as his opinion that the more distant of these +two points, that on the right, was the higher, and turned to the porter +for confirmation. That worthy nodded his head affirmatively with extreme +sagacity, evidently implying that he was of the same opinion. Franz on the +other hand thought the left-hand peak was the one that we ought to make +for, arguing that it most resembled the Dru as seen from the Montanvert, +that there was probably little difference in height between the two, that +our ascent would not be believed in unless we were to place a flag on the +point visible from Chamouni, and finally that the left-hand peak seemed to +be the easier, and would probably be found to conceal the sharper point of +the right-hand summit. Having expressed these views, he in turn looked +towards the porter to ascertain his sentiments. The porter, who was +evidently of a complaisant temperament, nodded his head very vigorously to +intimate that these arguments seemed the more powerful of the two to his +mind, and then cocked his head on one side in a knowing manner, intended +to express that he was studying the angles and that he was prepared to +find himself in the right whichever view prevailed. We did not find out +for certain till some time after that the right-hand summit, though +concealed from view by the Montanvert, is very distinctly visible from +Chamouni: excusable ignorance, as most of the Chamouni people are unaware +of it to this day. Professor Forbes, as Mr. Douglas Freshfield has kindly +pointed out to me, with his usual accuracy distinguished and also measured +the two summits, giving their heights respectively as 12,178, and 12,245 +feet.(3) Knowing little as we did then of the details of the mountain, we +followed Franz's advice and made for the left-hand peak, under the +impression that if one proved accessible the other might also, and there +really seemed no reason why we should not, if occasion demanded, ascend +both. + +(M36) + +Leading up from the glacier two distinct lines of attack presented +themselves. The right-hand ridge descends to the col very precipitously, +but still we had some idea that the rocks did not look wholly impossible. +Again, on the left of the Dru the rocks are cut away very abruptly and +form the long precipitous ridge seen from the Montanvert. This ridge was +so jagged that we could see no possible advantage in climbing to any part +of it, except just at the termination where it merges into the +south-western face of the main mountain. The choice therefore, in our +judgment, lay between storming the mountain by the face right opposite to +us or else making for the col and the right-hand ridge; but the latter was +the route that Messrs. Pendlebury and Kennedy had followed, and we could +not hope to succeed where such giants had failed. Burgener indeed wished +to try, but the rest of the party were unanimously in favour of attempting +to find a way up the face, a route that at the worst had the merit of +novelty. We thought too that if a closer acquaintance proved that the +crags were ill arranged for upward locomotion, we might be able to work +round on the face and so reach the col by a more circuitous route. With +the naked eye--especially a myopic one--the rocks appeared unpromising +enough; while viewed through the telescope the rocks looked utterly +impossible. But little faith, however, can be rested in telescopic +observations of a mountain, so far as the question of determining a route +is concerned. Amateurs, who, as a rule, understand the use of a telescope +much better than guides, have not the requisite experience to determine +the value of what they see, while but few guides see enough to form any +basis for determination. Moreover, the instrument we carried with us, +though it had an extraordinary number of sections and pulled out like the +ill-fated tradesman's trousers in a pantomime, was not a very remarkable +one in the matter of definition. Still it is always proper and orthodox to +look at a new peak through the telescope, and we were determined not to +neglect any formality on the present occasion. + +(M37) + +We were now rather more than half-way up the Glacier de la Charpoua. To +reach the most promising-looking point at which we might hope to get on +the rocks, it was necessary to travel straight across the snow at about +the level on which we stood. Now, this Glacier de la Charpoua is not +constructed on ordinary principles. Instead of the orthodox transverse +bergschrund it possesses a longitudinal crack running up its whole length, +a peculiarity that vexed us hugely. Half a dozen times did we attempt to +cross by some tempting-looking bridge, but on each occasion we were +brought to a stand by impassable crevasses; then had to turn back, go up a +little farther, and try again. It was already late in the day and we could +ill spare the time lost in this to and fro movement. Eventually we reached +a little patch of rocks not far from the head of the glacier. No sooner +had we reached these rocks than the guides hunted up a suitable place and +concealed some utterly worthless property as carefully as if they expected +evil-minded marauders to be wandering about, seeking what they might +pilfer. Having effected the cache with due care, Franz once again burst +into a strange carol, the burden of which was unintelligible, but the +chorus made frequent allusion to "der Teufel." We now saw that, after all, +the only feasible plan would be to cut our way still higher up a steep +slope, and thus to work right round, describing a large curve. An +occasional step required to be scraped, for the glacier is in shadow till +late in the morning, owing to the Aiguille Verte intervening and cutting +off the sun's rays. Throughout the day our second guide had been burning +with a desire to exhibit the good qualities of the most portentous ice axe +I ever saw, an instrument of an unwieldy character resembling a labourer's +pick on the top of a May pole. Its dimensions were monstrous and its +weight preposterous: moreover, the cutting spike had an evil curve and, +instead of hewing out blocks of ice neatly, preferred to ram a huge hole +in the slope and stick fast therein, while a quiver ran through its mighty +frame and communicated itself to the striker, who shuddered at each blow +as after taking a dose of very bitter physic. However, Franz was so proud +of his halberd that we were obliged to sacrifice rapid progress to the +consideration of his feelings, and he was accordingly sent on to cut the +steps which were now found necessary. With no little exertion did he +construct a staircase of which the steps were about the size of foot +baths, and with no slight impatience did we watch his gymnastics and +athletic flourishes, which were a sort of mixture of tossing the caber and +throwing the hammer combined with a touch of polo. Ultimately we were able +to quit the glacier for the actual face of the mountain, at a point +probably not very much below that struck by the previous party; but it was +our intention at once to bear off to the left. + +(M38) + +We blundered a little on the rocks at first after the long spell of +snow-walking. A cry from Franz caused us to look round, and we perceived +that he had got entangled with the big axe, the spike of which was +sticking into the third button of his waistcoat, causing him, as the +strain on the rope above and below folded him up in a rather painful +manner, to assume the attitude of a mechanical toy monkey on a stick. +Fearing that he might be placed in the condition in which cats' meat is +usually offered for sale, we slackened the rope and saved him from +impending perforation, but with the result that the axe bounded off down +the slope, turned two or three summersaults, and then stuck up defiantly +in a distant patch of snow, looking like a sign-post. While Franz went off +to recover his loved treasure we huddled together on a very little ledge +of rock, and sat there in a row like busts on a shelf--if the simile be not +considered anatomically inappropriate. But these delays had wasted much +time, and already success seemed doubtful. Little time could now be +devoted to consultation, and little good would have come of it; now that +we were on the rocks the only thing to do was to go straight on and see +what would happen. At the same time we had a dim consciousness that we +were considerably to the right of the best line of ascent. Our "general +idea"--to borrow a military phrase of which, by the way, it may be remarked +that the idea in question is usually confined to the general and is not +shared in by the troops--consisted in making for the left-hand side or +Montanvert aspect of the final peak. We set our teeth, whatever that may +mean, then fell to with a will and for some two hours went with scarcely a +check. And a rare two hours' climb we had. The very thought of it makes +the pen travel swiftly over the paper, as the scene comes back in every +detail. How Burgener led the way without hesitation and almost without +mistake; how our second guide chattered unceasingly, caring nought for a +listener; how they both stuck to the rocks like limpets; how the big axe +got in everybody's way; how the rope got caught on every projecting spur +of rock, jerking back the unwary, or when loose sweeping down showers of +small angular stones from the little platforms and ridges, thereby +engendering ill blood and contumely; how the silent porter climbed +stolidly after us, and in the plenitude of his taciturn good-humour poked +at us from below with his staff at inconvenient moments and in sensitive +places; how at one moment we were flat against the rock, all arms and +legs, like crushed spiders, and at another gathered into great loops like +a cheese maggot on the point of making a leap; how a volley of little +stones came whistling cheerily down from above, playfully peppering us all +round; how our spirits rose with our bodies till we became as excited as +children: of all these things it boots not to give any detailed +description. Those who can recollect similar occasions need but to be +reminded of them, and, to tell the truth, the minutiae, though they are so +graven upon the mind that a clear impression could be struck off years +afterwards, are apt to prove somewhat tedious. Two facts I may note. One, +that the rocks were at first very much easier than was expected; another, +that we should have done better had we discarded the rope on this part of +the climb: the rocks were hardly a fit place for those who could not +dispense with its use. Ever and anon the guides' spirits would rise to +that level which may be called the shouting point, and they would joedel +till they were black in the face, while the melodious roll of sound echoed +cheerily back from the distant cliffs of the Aiguille Moine. And so we +journeyed up. + +(M39) + +Meanwhile the weather had changed; black clouds had come rolling up and +were gathering ominously above us; it was evident that we had no chance of +reaching the summit that day, even if it were practicable, but still we +persevered desperately in the hope of seeing some possible route for a +future attack. Progress, however, on a rock peak is necessarily slow when +there are five on the rope, and we should probably have done more wisely +if we had divided into two parties. We kept well to the left to a point on +the face where a huge tower of rock stands four-square to all the winds of +heaven that blow; and above us, as a matter of fact, there seemed to be a +good many winds. This landmark, very conspicuous and characteristic of +these aiguilles, seemed to be close to the ridge, but on reaching it we +found that there was still a stiff passage intervening between us and the +point from which we could overlook the other side of the mountain. Now we +bore to the right and the climbing became more difficult. We made our way +straight up a very shallow gully and finally reached a point on the +western ridge overlooking the Montanvert, close to where this ridge merges +into the corresponding face of the peak. Here a halt was called, for two +reasons. In the first place a few flakes of snow were softly falling +around and the gathering clouds betokened more to follow. Secondly, so far +as we could judge through the mist, it was apparently impossible to ascend +any higher from the place we had reached. So we cast off the rope and +clambered separately to various points of vantage to survey the work that +lay before us. The summit of the peak, enveloped in thin cloud, appeared +to tower no great height above us, but we were too close under the cliff +to estimate its elevation very correctly. At the time we thought that if +we could only keep up the pace at which we had been going, an hour's climb +would have sufficed to reach the top. We found, it may be remarked +parenthetically, that we were egregiously in error in this estimate some +years later. The shifting clouds made the rock face--that is, the small +extent of it that we could see at all--look much more difficult than in all +probability it actually was. Through the mists we made out, indistinctly, +a formidable-looking irregular crack in the rock face running very +straight up and rather to our left, which apparently constituted the only +possible route from our position to a higher level. But from where we +stood we could not have reached the lower end of this crack without a +ladder of about fifty feet in length, and the mist entirely prevented us +from judging whether we could reach it by a detour. The choice lay between +hunting for some such line or else in trying what seemed on the whole more +practicable, viz. working round by the north-east face again, so as to +search for a more easy line of ascent. But the latter alternative would +have involved of necessity a considerable descent. While we debated what +course to take the mists swept up thicker and thicker from below, and in a +moment the peak above us was concealed and all the view cut off. A +piercingly cold wind began to rise and a sharp storm of hail and sleet +descended. Hints were dropped about the difficulty of descending rocks +glazed over with ice with a proper amount of deliberation. It was +obviously impossible to go up and might soon become very difficult to go +down. The question was not actually put, but, in conformity with what was +evidently the general sense of the meeting, we somewhat reluctantly made +up our minds to return. A dwarf stone man was constructed, the rope +readjusted, and half an hour's descent put us out of the mist and snow. We +stopped again and stared upwards blankly at the leve line of mist hanging +heavily against the peak. Burgener now came forward with a definite +resolution and proposed that we should stay where we were for the night +and try again the next day. This was referred to a sub-committee, who +reported against the suggestion on the ground that the stock of provisions +left consisted of a tablespoonful of wine, four rolls, and a small piece +of cheese which had strayed from the enveloping paper in the porter's +pocket and as a consequence smelt of tobacco and was covered with hairs +and fluff. These articles of diet were spread on a rock and we mentally +calculated the exact proportion that would fall to each man's share if we +attempted, as proposed, to subsist on them for a day and a half. But +little deliberation was required. We decided at once to return. The porter +gathered the fragments lovingly together and replaced them with other +curious articles in his side pocket. By 8.30 P.M. we were back at +Chamouni, having been out a little under twenty hours. + +(M40) + +A day or two later we made up our minds to start once more. Great +preparations were made for an early departure, the idea that we should +find it distasteful to start at the hour at which a London ball begins +being scouted, as it usually is over-night. We impressed on an intelligent +"boots" with great earnestness the absolute necessity of waking us +precisely at midnight, and then went to our repose, feeling about as much +inclined for sleep as a child does during the afternoon siesta intended to +prepare it for the glories of a pantomime. The "boots" did not fail; in +fact he was extra-punctual, as our departure was the signal for his +retiring. At midnight the party assembled in the little courtyard in front +of the hotel, but a dismal sight met our gaze. Under the influence of a +warm sou'-wester, thick black clouds had filled the valley, and a gentle +drizzle reminded us of the balmy climate of our own metropolis in +November. Our Alpine tour for the season was nearly at an end, and we +gazed despondently around. Ultimately one practical person suggested that +if we did not go to the mountain we might as well go to bed, and the +practical person endorsed his suggestion by walking off. A scurvy +practical joke did the clerk of the weather play on us that night. In the +morning the bright sunbeams came streaming in through the window, the sky +was cloudless and the outline of every peak was sharply defined in the +clear air. A more perfect morning for the expedition could hardly have +been chosen. Some ill-timed remarks at breakfast referring pointedly to +people who talk a good deal over-night about early starts, and the deep +concern of the "boots" at our presumed slothfulness, goaded us to +desperation. We determined to start again and to have one more try the +next day whatever the weather might prove to be. Once more we found +ourselves in the small hours of the morning on the path leading to Les +Ponts. Had it not been for the previous day's lesson we should probably +have turned back from this point, for the whole of the mountain opposite +was concealed in thick drifting mist. The guides flatly refused to go on +as matters stood. We were determined on our side not to give it up, and so +a compromise was effected. It was agreed to wait for an hour or two and +see if matters mended. So we stretched ourselves out on a damp sloping +rock, prepared to resume our journey at the slightest indication of a +change for the better. Rest at such a time even under these hard, not to +say stony, conditions is seductive, and, as we lay half dozing, strange +heretical thoughts came crowding into the mind. Why toil up this mountain +when one can rest in luxury on these knobby rocks? Why labour over the +shifting moraine, the deceitful glacier, the slippery rock? What is the +good of it all? Can it be vanity or----"Vorwaerts!" The dream vanished as the +cheery cry broke out from the guide engaged on outpost duty, and as we +rose and stretched ourselves the whole aspect of affairs seemed changed. A +distinct break in the clouds at the head of the Mer de Glace gave promise +of better things in store, and we felt almost guilty of having wasted an +hour or more at our halt. The break became larger and larger, and before +long the great cloud banks resolved into one huge streamer flying from the +summit of the peak. I fancy that, at any rate in the early stages of +mountaineering, many good chances are thrown away on such days, for guides +are as a rule somewhat prone to despondency in the early morning hours. +Once started, however, they became wondrously keen, complained of our +delay, and even asserted with some effrontery that they had predicted fine +weather all the time, and this without a blush; still some one rather +neatly defined blushing as a suffusion least seldom seen in those who have +the most occasion for it, and guides share with politicians a certain +power of manipulating their opinions to suit the exigencies of the moment. +The traces of our former attempt assisted us materially on the glacier. +Our plan of attack consisted in getting on the rocks at our former point, +but working on this occasion much more directly up the face. Burgener +conceived that by following this line of assault we should be able to +ascend, by means of a gully which existed only in his own imagination, to +a more practicable part of the peak. Between the two summits of the +Aiguille du Dru may be seen, at any rate in photographs, a +tempting-looking streak of snow: it seemed possible, if we could once +reach the lower point of this streak, to follow its line upwards. The +lower peak of the Dru is well rounded on its eastern face, and the rocks +appear more broken than in other parts of the mountain. + +(M41) + +If we could but once reach the cleft between the peaks there seemed every +chance of our being able to reach the lower summit. At the outset progress +was fast. We followed our former line till we were in sight of the rock +tower and then at once bore off to the right. The climbing was rather more +difficult, at least it seemed so to us in those days, than on the other +part of the mountain with which we had previously made acquaintance. A +series of short flat gullies had to be climbed, but there were exceedingly +few inequalities to help us. The rope was of little or no use and might +perhaps have been laid aside with advantage. We soon found that we had +reached a higher point than at our previous attempt, and as the leader +constantly returned favourable reports our spirits rose; so elated in fact +did we become that the exact formalities to be observed on reaching the +top were seriously discussed whenever the occasion offered for +conversation, which was not very often. Old Franz chattered away to +himself, as was his wont when matters went well, and on looking back on +one occasion I perceived the strange phenomenon of a smile illuminating +the porter's features. Howbeit, this worthy spake no words of +satisfaction, but pulled ever at his empty pipe. By dint of wriggling over +a smooth sloping stone slab we had got into a steep rock gully which +promised to lead us to a good height. Burgener, assisted by much pushing +and prodding from below and aided on his own part by much snorting and +some strong language, had managed to climb on to a great overhanging +boulder that cut off the view from the rest of the party below. As he +disappeared from sight we watched the paying out of the rope with as much +anxiety as a fisherman eyes his vanishing line when the salmon runs. +Presently the rope ceased to move and we waited for a few moments in +suspense. We felt that the critical moment of the expedition had arrived, +and the fact that our own view was exceedingly limited made us all the +more anxious to hear the verdict. "How does it look?" we called out. The +answer came back in patois, a bad sign in such emergencies. For a minute +or two an animated conversation was kept up; then we decided to take +another opinion and accordingly hoisted up our second guide. The chatter +was redoubled. "What does it look like?" we shouted again. "Not possible +from where we are," was the melancholy answer, and in a tone that crashed +at once all our previous elation. I could not find words at the moment to +express my disappointment: but the porter could and gallantly he came to +the rescue. He opened his mouth for the first time and spoke, and he said +very loud indeed that it was "verdammt." Precisely: that is just what it +was. Having made this short speech, the porter allowed the smile to fade +away from his features, shook out some imaginary ashes and proceeded to +light some visionary tobacco, sucking at a lighted match through the +medium of an empty pipe. It seemed hard to believe at first that we were +to be baulked when so near the summit, and it was not till the guides had +tried again and again to storm the almost vertical wall of smooth rock and +had shown the utter impossibility of turning it either right or left, that +we felt we were really beaten. One more forlorn chance remained: we might +try the west face of the mountain from the spot we had reached at our +first attempt, when the weather had prevented us from making any further +progress. Had there been more time at our disposal we should have done +better to try another line of ascent more to our right, that is, nearer to +the col, and it might be possible to reach the cleft between the two +summits by this means. As for the snow streak which looked so tempting at +a distance, it is a delusion and a snare, if the latter term be applicable +to a place which appears to be much more difficult to get into than it +probably would be to get out of. We had already pretty fully realised that +the mountain was more difficult to ascend than we had ever contemplated, +and it seemed advisable at the moment to make for some definite point +which at any rate we felt sure of reaching and to study the peak in detail +to the best of our ability; so we made towards our cairn, though with +little hope of gaining much knowledge thereby. + +(M42) + +Without much difficulty, but not without some little danger from falling +stones (though on the whole, the mountain is remarkably free from these +annoyances, there being as a matter of fact but few loose stones to fall), +we reached our former point and were able to judge distinctly of how much +higher we had reached at our second attempt. We saw also that upward +progress from the point on which we stood would not be possible, but it +must be remembered that we were able only to see a small strip of the +mountain lying directly above. Every crag that was not absolutely vertical +appeared to overhang, and the few small cracks that might have afforded +hand and foot hold led nowhere in particular. Altogether the view was +depressing although limited. There was no time to hunt about for other +routes, or we should certainly have done so, for we felt that though +beaten our discomfiture only arose from the fact that we had chosen a +wrong line of ascent. Possibly within a few yards of us lay a feasible +route, but we knew not on which side it might be. Here it occurred to the +porter for the first time that his pipe was empty and had been so all day: +he thereupon made his second remark, which consisted in an audible request +for something to put in it. We had dragged up with us (as a matter of fact +the porter had carried it the whole time) some 200 feet of rope, thinking +it might help us in the descent, but the part of the mountain on which we +were presents no more difficulties in this respect than does Avernus. + +(M43) + +Arrived on the snow slope opposite the rock face on which we had been +climbing during the day, we stopped, extended the telescope, and tried to +make out our exact line, and endeavoured also to discover what had been +our error; no easy task, as any persons of experience will admit. At any +time the appearance of this peak is deceptive, and the outline no more +guides you to a knowledge of the natural details than does the outline of +a fashionable lady's dress. But as we looked the mountain seemed flattened +out by reason of a blue evening mist which obscured all the +irregularities. So we turned and resumed our journey down, running hard +across the Mer de Glace, for the shades of night drew on apace, and +reached Chamouni at 8.30 in the evening, leaving the guides at the +Montanvert with half a bottle of thin red wine between three of them. We +were overtaken by Edouard Cupelin, one of the best of the Chamouni guides, +at any rate on rock mountains, on our way down, and he gave us a rather +sensational account of his own adventures on the peak. In justice to him +it should be mentioned that he was almost the only Chamouni guide who +seemed to think the ascent possible, and in his opinion the general line +that we had adopted was the correct one. Our second expedition thus from +first to last occupied about 201/2 hours, but the halts were not nearly so +numerous as on the first occasion. The experience of our two days' +climbing led us to the conclusion that Cupelin was right. From the +peculiar character of the rocks and the fact that our climbing lay chiefly +along short flat gullies we were unable, as already remarked, to get a +very clear idea of any part of the mountain except that on which we were +actually engaged, and we were led to the opinion that the only plan to +find a possible route would consist in trying in succession from below the +different parts of the southern face. The final peak, which from this side +shoots up clearly defined from the great mass of the mountain, seemed to +us tolerably easy of ascent provided one could reach the base. A sort of +depression extends three parts of the way round, and the edge of this +shallow moat appeared to be defended by an inaccessible belt of vertical +rock. The actual rocks were wholly unlike any met with elsewhere in our +experience. Great vertical slabs were fitted together with an accuracy +which was beautiful in its perfection, but irritating beyond conception to +the climber. Progress upwards, when above the level of the col, +necessitated a series of fatiguing gymnastics like swimming uphill, but +the rocks where they were possible proved invariably firm and good. On +both occasions we were stopped by sheer difficulty and probably saw the +mountain at its very best. The snow on the rocks, which proved such a +formidable difficulty to Mr. Pendlebury's party, had almost entirely +disappeared before our assault. The rocks were warm and the weather on the +second day was perfect. + +(M44) + +Such is the history of our first two attempts to climb this mountain. They +served but to whet our appetite for success, but it was not till years +after that we were fortunate enough to meet with that success. + + + + + + CHAPTER IV. + + + A DAY ACROSS COUNTRY + + + The art of meteorological vaticination--The climate we leave our + homes for--Observations in the valley--The diligence arrives and + shoots its load--Types of travellers--The Alpine habitue--The elderly + spinster on tour--A stern Briton--A family party--We seek fresh + snow-fields--The Bietschhorn--A sepulchral bivouac--On early starts + and their curious effects on the temperament--A choice of routes--A + deceptive ice gully--The avalanches on the Bietschhorn--We work up + to a dramatic situation--The united party nearly fall out--A limited + panorama--A race for home--Caught out--A short cut--Driven to + extremities--The water jump--An aged person comes to the rescue--A + classical banquet at Ried--The old cure and his hospitality--A + wasted life? + + +The summer season of 1878 was one of the worst on record. Meteorologists, +by a species of climatic paradox, might have had a fine time of it; +mountaineers had a most wet and disagreeable time of it. The weather +prophets easily established a reputation for infallibility--according to +the accepted modern standard of vaticination--by predicting invariably evil +things. They were thus right five times out of six, which will readily be +acknowledged as very creditable in persons who were uninspired, save by a +desire to exalt themselves in the eyes of their fellow tourists. But, as +in the case of that singularly hopeful person Tantalus, the torture was +rendered more artistic and aggravating by sporadic promise of better +things. One day the rock aiguilles were powdered over and white-speckled +with snow. The climber looked up longingly at the heights above, but +visions of numbing cold and frost-bitten fingers caused him to thrust the +latter members into his pockets and turn away with a sigh, to put it +mildly, and avert his gaze from the chilling spectacle. Then would he +follow his daily practice--his thrice-a-daily practice in all +probability--of overeating himself. Perhaps, while still engaged at _table +d'hote_ in consuming, at any rate in masticating, the multiform dish +generically named "chevreuil," the glow of a rosy sunset, and the hope of +brighter things in store for the morrow, would attract him to the window. + +(M45) + +The next day would produce scorching heat, a clear sky, a rising +barometer, and a revival of spirits; diet, as the physicians say, as +before. The powdered snow would disappear off the ledges and, melting, +distribute itself more uniformly over the rocks, which as a result +presented a shining appearance, as the morning face of a schoolboy or the +Sunday face of a general servant. At night a clear sky and a sharp frost +in the high regions, and the next day the mountain would be more +impossible than ever. Still, recognising that another few hours of +grateful sunshine would cause the thin film of ice glazing the rocks to +melt and evaporate, the energetic climber (and we were very energetic that +year) would summon his guides and all his resolution, pack up his traps, +and start for a bivouac up aloft, to return, in all probability, at the +end of twenty-four hours, in a downfall of rain and in the condition of +steamy moisture so tersely described by Mr. Mantalini. Such, during July +1878, was our lot day after day in the glorious Alpine climate. We paced +up and down, with the regularity of sentries, between our camp on the +Aiguille du Dru and Couttet's hotel at Chamouni. Occasionally we ascended +some distance up the Glacier de la Charpoua and took observations. Once or +twice we proceeded far enough on the rocks of the Aiguille du Dru to prove +the impossibility of ascending them to any great height. Still we were +loth to depart and run the risk of losing a favourable opportunity of +assaulting the mountain with any chance of success. It fell out thus that +we had good opportunities of observing our fellow creatures and the +various types of travellers who, notwithstanding the weather, still +crowded into Chamouni; for it was only on rock peaks such as the Aiguille +du Dru, or difficult mountains like the Aiguille Verte, that climbing was +impossible. This condition of things did not affect to any very +appreciable extent the perambulating peasants who constitute the vast +majority of the body known as guides in Chamouni. These worthies merely +loafed a little more than they were wont to do, if that be possible. +Perhaps the gathering invariably to be found, during twenty hours out of +the twenty-four, at the cross roads near Tairraz's shop was still more +numerously attended, and there was some slight increase in the number of +sunburnt individuals who found intellectual exercise sufficient to +apologise for their existence in wearing their hands in their pockets, +smoking indifferent tobacco, expectorating indiscriminately, and uttering +statements devoid of sense or point to anybody who cared to listen. The +weather had no effect on them; whether wet or dry, cold or warm, they +still occupied themselves from June to September in the same manner. Once +in the early morning, and once again about five o'clock in the evening, +were they momentarily galvanised out of their listlessness by the arriving +and departing diligences. + +(M46) + +On the arrival of the caravan the contingent was usually reinforced by +some of our own countrymen. The proper attitude for the English visitor at +Chamouni to assume, when watching the evening incursion of tourists, +consisted in leaning against the wall on the south side of the street, and +so to pose himself as to indicate independence of the proceedings and to +wear an expression of indifference tinged with a suggestion of cynical +humour. This was usually accomplished by wearing the hands in the pockets, +tilting the hat a little over the eyes, crossing the legs, and laughing +unduly at the remarks of companions, whether audible or not. Some few +considered that smoking a wooden pipe assisted the realisation of the +effect intended: others apparently held that a heavy object held in the +mouth interfered with the expression. I have observed that these same +onlookers were bitterly indignant at the ordeal they had to pass through +on returning to their native shores via Folkestone, when clambering +wearily with leaden eyes and sage-green complexions up the pier steps. Yet +the diligence travellers, begrimed with dust, stung of horse flies, +cramped, choked, and so jolted that they recognised more bony prominences +than previous anatomical knowledge had ever led them to expect they +possessed, were none the less objects of pity. Still human nature is +always worthy of study, and those who arrived, together with those who +went to see them arrive, were equally interesting under the depressing +climatic influences which so often forbade us to take our pleasure +elsewhere. + +(M47) + +It was curious to note how, day after day, the diligence on its arrival +released from the cramped thraldom of its uncomfortable seats almost +exactly the same load. As the great lumbering yellow vehicle came within +sight, one or two familiar faces would be seen craning out to catch the +first sight of an old guide or mountain friend. These _habitues_ as a rule +secured for themselves the corner seats. We knew exactly what their +luggage would be. A bundle of axes like Roman "fasces" would be handed out +first, with perhaps a little unnecessary ostentation, followed by a coil +of rope which might have been packed up in the portmanteau, but usually +was not; then a knapsack, with marks on the back like a map of the +continent of America if the owner was an old hand, and a spotless minute +check if he were only trying to look like one. The owners of the knapsacks +would be clad in suits that once were dittos, flannel shirts and the +familiar British wide-awake, the new aspirants for mountaineering fame +decorating their head gear with snow spectacles purchased in Geneva. Very +business-like would they show themselves in collecting their luggage +before anybody else; then, with a knowing look at the mountains, they +would make their way to Couttet's. Next, perhaps, would follow a party of +some two or three spinsters travelling alone and as uncertain about their +destination as they were of their age. To attract such, some of the hotel +proprietors, more astute than their fellows, despatched to the scene of +action porters of cultivated manners and obsequious demeanour, who seldom +failed, by proving themselves to be "such nice polite men, my dear," to +ensnare the victims. Burdened with the numerous parcels and odd little +bags this class of traveller greatly affects, the nicely mannered porter +would lead the way to the hotel or pension, probably bestowing, as he +passed, a wink on some friend among the guides, who recognised at once the +type of tourist that would inevitably visit the Montanvert, probably the +Chapeau and possibly the Flegere, and recognising too the type in whom +judicious compliments were not likely to be invested without satisfactory +results. Such people invariably enquired if they could not be taken _en +pension_. Somewhat frugal as regards diet, especially breakfast, but with +astounding capacities for swallowing _table d'hote_ dinners or such +romance as the guides might be pleased to invent on the subject of their +own prowess and exploits. Charming old ladies these often were, as pleased +with the novelty of everything they saw around them as a gutter child in a +country meadow. Their nature changes marvellously in the Alps. Scarcely +should we recognise in the small wiry traveller in the mountains the same +individual whom we might meet in town--say in the neighbourhood of +Bloomsbury. I have noticed such a one not a hundred miles from there whose +energy for sight-seeing when in the Alps surpassed all belief. Yet here +she seemed but a little, wrinkled, bent-in-the-back old woman, flat of +foot, reckless at crossings, finding difficulty on Sunday mornings in +fishing a copper out of her reticule for the crossing sweeper, by reason +of the undue length of the finger-tips to her one-buttoned black kid +gloves, and accompanied on week days, perhaps for the sake of contrast, by +a sprightly little black and tan dog of so arrogant a disposition that it +declined to use in walking all the legs which Providence had furnished it. +Next, perhaps, the British paterfamilias, who might or might not be a +clergyman, most intractable of tourists; ever prone to combine instruction +with amusement for the benefit of his bored family, slightly relaxing on +week days, but rigid and austere on Sundays beyond conception. And then +the foreign sub-Alpine walker or "intrepide," clad in special garments of +local make and highly vaunted efficiency, garrulous, smoky, voracious, a +trifle greasy, and dealing habitually in ecstatic hendecasyllables +expressive of admiration of everything he saw. Next the family party, +possibly with a courier, with whom the younger members were, as a rule, +unduly familiar: the boys wearing tailed shooting coats, consorting but +ill with Eton turn-down collars, groaning under the burden of green baize +bags containing assorted guide books, strange receptacles for the +umbrellas of the party, and with leathern wallets slung around their +shoulders, stuffed with the useless articles boys cherish and love to +carry with them; the girls awkwardly conscious and feeling ill at ease by +reason of the practical dresses, boots, and head gear devised for them at +home, looking tenderly after a collection of weakly sticks tipped with +chamois horns and decorated with a spirally arranged list of localities; +the whole party in an excessively bad temper, which the boys exhibited by +pummelling and thumping when "pa" was not looking and the girls by little +sniffs, head tossings, and pointed remarks at each other that they had no +idea what guys they looked. It will be observed that the constant bad +weather induced a cynical condition of mind. + +(M48) + +We made up our minds, notwithstanding the attractions of this varied +company, to quit them for a while, to seek fresh snow-fields and glaciers +new, and to leave the rocks of the Aiguille du Dru for a time unmolested. +At the suggestion of Jaun we betook ourselves to the Oberland for a +contemplated ascent of the Bietschhorn by a new route. Under a tropical +sun we made our way by the interminable zigzags through the Trient valley +down to Vernayaz, where we met again, like the witches in "Macbeth," in +thunder and in rain. Our project was to ascend the Bietschhorn from the +Visp side and descend it by the usual route to Ried. This form of novelty +had become so common in mountaineering that a new word had been coined +expressly to describe such expeditions, and the climber, if he succeeded +in his endeavour, was said to have "colled" the peak. The phrase, however, +was only admissible on the first occasion, and it was subsequently +described by any who followed, in more prosaic terms, as going up one side +and down the other. + +(M49) + +We did not experience any unusual difficulty in leaving Visp tolerably +early in the morning. The chorus of frogs, who were in remarkably fine +voice that night in the neighbouring swamps, kept us awake, and the proper +musical contrast was provided by the alto humming of some hungry +mosquitoes. Our plan of assault was to camp somewhere at the head of the +Baltschieder Thal, which is a dreary stony valley with only a few huts +that would scarcely be considered habitable even by a London +slum-landlord. The living inhabitants appeared to consist of three unkempt +children, two pigs, one imbecile old man, and a dog with a fortuitous +family. On the whole, therefore, we came to the conclusion that nature +would probably provide better accommodation than the local architectural +art, and a short search revealed a most luxurious bivouac, close to the +left moraine of the Baltschieder Glacier, under the shelter of the +Faeschhorn and a little above the level of the ice fall. A huge, flat slab +of rock formed the roof of a wedge-shaped cavity capable of holding at +least six persons, if disposed in a horizontal position. The space between +the floor and the roof, it is true, was not much more than three feet; but +the chamber, though well sheltered, demanded no ventilating tubes to +ensure a proper supply of fresh air. Having a little spare time and being +luxuriously inclined, we decided to sleep on spring beds. First we swept +the stone floor, then covered it with a thick layer of dry rhododendron +branches, over which were laid large sods of dried peat grass, and the +beds were complete. The pointed ends of the twigs showed rather a tendency +to penetrate through the grassy covering during the night, but otherwise +the mattresses were all that could be desired. About two in the morning we +got up--that is, we would have got up had it not been physically impossible +to do so by reason of the lowness of the roof. A more correct expression +would be perhaps to say that we turned out, rolling from under the shelter +of the slab one after another. By the dim light of an ineffective candle, +poked into the neck of a broken bottle, we found it no easy matter to +collect all the articles which the guides had of course unpacked and +stowed away as if they were going to stay a week; indeed, a certain bottle +of seltzer water will probably still be found--at any rate the bottle +will--by anyone who seeks repose in the same quarters. + +(M50) + +We started in the usual frame of mind--that is to say, everybody was +exceedingly facetious for about three minutes. In about ten minutes one of +the party, who would slake his thirst unduly at a crystal spring near the +bivouac the previous evening, found that his boot lace was untied; +circumstances which do not seem associated at first sight, but are not, +nevertheless, infrequently observed. So again have I often remarked that a +good dinner overnight develops in an astonishing manner admiration for +distant views when ascending on the subsequent day. Within a quarter of an +hour the amateurs of the party ceased to indulge in conversation, their +remarks dying away into a species of pained silence similar to that which +is induced in youthful voluptuaries by the premature smoking of clay +pipes. The guides, however, seldom if ever desisted from dialogue, and +never for the purpose of listening to each other's remarks. Still, the +respiratory process is governed by the same conditions in the case of +guides as in other mortals, and though they would scorn to stoop to the +boot-lace subterfuge, and feel that a sudden admiration for scenery would +deceive no one, they yet found it necessary before long to distribute +their burdens more equally; a process achieved by halting, untying several +strings, taking out several parcels and replacing them in the same +positions. By these various methods we acquired what athletes call "second +wind" and stepped out more strongly. We crossed a moraine of the usual +inconsistency--however, the subject of loose moraines has been, I fancy, +touched upon by other writers. The Baltschieder Glacier sweeps at a right +angle round a mountain christened, not very originally, the Breithorn. +This particular member of that somewhat numerous family blocks up the head +of the Baltschieder Thal. We skirted the north base of the Breithorn, +passing between it and the Jaegihorn, and arriving at the top of a steep +little slope came in full view of the eastern slopes of our objective +peak. At this point Maurer gave vent to a dismal wail of anguish as it +suddenly occurred to him that he had left the bottle of seltzer water down +below. With some difficulty did we persuade him that it was not necessary +to return for it, although the idea of repose was not wholly distasteful, +but we felt that we had probably all our work cut out for us in one sense, +and that the days were none too long for such an expedition as the one we +had in hand. Two distinct lines of attack appeared to offer themselves. +One route, more to our right, led upwards by a gentle curved ridge, +chiefly of snow, connecting the Baltschieder Joch with the northern arete +of the mountain. In 1866 Messrs. D. W. Freshfield and C. C. Tucker, as we +learnt subsequently, attained a high point by this way and were only +prevented from accomplishing the actual ascent by bad weather, though they +did enough to prove the practicability of the route. However, this way, +which appeared the easier of the two, was evidently the longer from our +position. The other route had the advantage of lying straight in front of +us. Its attraction consisted of a broad long gully of snow enclosed +between two ridges of rock. By the dim morning light the snow appeared +easy enough and was evidently in suitable condition: howbeit, long snow +couloirs, at the summit of which rocks overhang, are not usually to be +recommended when the mountain itself is composed of friable material. Now +it would be difficult to find in the whole of the Alps a mountain more +disposed to cast stones at its assailants than the Bietschhorn, a fact of +which we were fully aware. Every ascent of this disintegrating peak so +rearranges the rocks that the next comers would not be wholly without +justification if they pleaded that the details of their ascent were to a +great extent new. Still, mountaineers up to the present have not been +quite reduced to such a far-fetched claim to novelty, although in these +latter days they have at times come perilously near it. Judging by the +direction of the strata, we felt certain that the rock ridges must be +practicable, and the problem in mountaineering set before us consisted in +finding out how we might best ascend without subjecting ourselves to the +inconveniences experienced by some of the early martyrs. + +(M51) + +An early breakfast put fresh strength into us. It is a common mistake of +mountaineers not to breakfast early enough and not to breakfast often +enough. If it be desired to achieve a long expedition when there is not +likely to be too much spare time, the wise man will eat something at least +every two hours up to about 10 o'clock in the morning, supposing, for +instance, he started about 2 A.M. It is astonishing to notice how the full +man gains upon the empty one on fatiguing snow slopes. We strode rapidly +across the basin of snow called the Jaegifirn and arrived at the foot of +the gully. But now we could see that our suspicions were more than +verified: ugly-looking marks in the snow above indicated falling stones, +and the snow itself was obviously in a condition prone to avalanches. This +danger must always be present in couloirs to a greater or less extent in +such seasons as the one we were experiencing. There had been sufficient +power of sun to convert the contents of the gully into what would have +been, in fine weather, a glistening ice slope. But much fresh snow had +fallen recently. It but rarely can happen, when snow has fallen late in +the season or during the hot months, that the new and the old layers can +become properly amalgamated. If, therefore, there is too great a thickness +of fresh snow to allow of steps being cut through this into the ice +beneath, such couloirs are unsafe. The mark of a single avalanche due to +the sliding off of the fresh snow on the ice beneath--a mark easily enough +recognised--would deter any save an unwise person or a novice from +attempting such a line of ascent. The marvellous hereditary instinct so +often attributed to guides in judging of this condition really reduces +itself to a matter of very simple observation and attention, and one +within the reach of anybody. But travellers in the Alps too often appear +to treat their reasoning faculties like they do their tall hats, and leave +them at home. The question then was, Were the rocks right or left of this +snow gully practicable? We all agreed that they were, and proceeded at +once to test the accuracy of our opinion. + +(M52) + +We crossed the bergschrund--that godsend to writers on mountaineering in +search of material to act as padding--and without dwelling on its insecure +bridge longer than we need now dwell on the subject made swiftly for some +rocks on the left. Scarcely had we gained them when a rush of snow and +ice, of no great dimensions, but still large enough to be formidable, +obliterated all the tracks we had just made. This settled the point at +once, and we felt that by the rocks alone would it be proper to force the +ascent. While on the ridge we were safe enough, and had the advantage as +we clambered up of a most commanding position from whence we could view +the frequent avalanches that swept by. The rain of the previous night, +though it had only lasted for an hour or two, had evidently had a great +effect on the state of the snow, and the avalanches seemed to pour down +almost incessantly: probably some forty or fifty swept by us while we +climbed by the side of the gully, and our situation gave rise to that +feeling of somewhat pained security which is experienced when standing on +a railway platform as an express train dashes by; we certainly felt that +some of the downfalls would have reduced our party to a pulp quite as +easily and with as much unconcern as the train itself. The guides, who do +not perhaps tax their memories very severely for a parallel on such an +occasion, asserted, as they generally do, that they had never seen +anything like it in the whole course of their lives. They then fell to +whistling, laughed very gaily, and borrowed tobacco from each other. + +(M53) + +Gradually our difficulties became more pronounced, and conversation on +indifferent topics was discarded, the remarks being confined to brief +exclamations such as "Keep it tight!" "Don't touch that one!" "Hold on +now!" "You're treading on my fingers!" "The point of your axe is sticking +into my stomach!" and similar ejaculations. Once in a way we ascended for +a few feet by the snow, though never quite losing touch of the rocks, and +sank waist deep in the soft compound filling up the gully. Then we went +back to the rotten rocks for a brief spell, well content to be more out of +the reach of chance fragments of ice falling down the shoot. It is +wonderful to note how quickly time passes in an exciting climb of this +nature; but our progress was actually rather rapid, so fast indeed that we +did not fully realise at one period that we were getting into difficulties +and that we had without doubt strayed, Christian-like, from the narrow +path which was evidently the right one. Throughout the day we were +conscious that the climb was too long to be completed if we made any +serious mistake involving the retracing of steps. Quite suddenly, our +situation became critical: a hurried glance up and down along the line +revealed the fact that each member of the party had to do all he knew to +preserve his position. The attitudes were ungainly enough to suggest +instantaneous photographs at an ill-selected movement of four individuals +dancing a "can-can." Maurer was engaged apparently in an extremely close +and minute inspection of the toe of his right boot. Another member of the +party was giving a practical illustration of the fact that he could, by +extreme extension of his arms, stretch more than his own height, while a +third was endeavouring to find out why the power of co-ordinating his +muscular movements was suddenly lost to him, and why he could not persuade +his left leg to join his right. For a few moments Jaun, who was leading, +hung on by his finger-tips and the issue of the expedition hung in the +balance. But our leader, by dint of some complicated sprawls, transferred +himself over a passage of rock on which we had no earthly reason to be, +and assisted the rest of the party to regain a more promising line of +ascent. For those few minutes the situation was dramatic enough, and the +thought crossed my mind that the curtain might not improbably descend on +it; a solution of the difficulty which commends itself to the playwright +when he has involved his _dramatis personae_ in difficulties, but which is +not without its objections to the climber. On the whole the rocks on this +face of the mountain are much more difficult than on the other, and, +writing now after the lapse of some years, I am disposed to think that +these are perhaps the most difficult crags of any that I have ever met +with to climb properly, that is with a minimum of risk to one's self and +to one's companions; as a good proof of this I may say that the ascent +would probably have appeared fairly easy to a novice and that it required +some little Alpine experience to realise their real difficulty and their +treacherous nature. There was scarcely time to test adequately all hand +and foothold, and examination of rocks by what surgeons term palpation is +a _sine qua non_ in rock climbing. Undoubtedly the mountain was not in the +best possible order. We may possibly have rearranged the rocks in our line +of ascent in a more convenient manner for those who follow. Certainly we +may fairly say that in our actual line of ascent we left no stone unturned +to ensure success. + +(M54) + +Close below the ridge--within perhaps ten feet of it, for if I remember +aright our leader had actually reached the crest--came the climax to what +was perhaps rather a perilous climb. The first and second on the rope had +met in their upward passage a huge cube of rock whose security they had +carefully tested, and to surmount which it was necessary to stretch to the +fullest extent in order to gain a respectable hold for the hands. We were +all four in a direct line one below the other, and the two last on the +rope were placed perforce directly beneath the treacherous crag. By an +extension movement which conveyed some notion of the sensation experienced +by those on the rack, I had reached a handhold pronounced to be of a +passable nature by those above. By this manoeuvre I succeeded in getting my +feet exactly to a place on which the others, who were much heavier than I, +had stood in security; without rhyme or reason the block of stone, which +was about the size of a grand pianoforte, suddenly broke away from under +me; a huge gap seemed cloven out in the mountain side, and Maurer, below, +had only just time to spring aside, enveloped in a cloud of dust, and to +throw himself flat against the rock, while the rope was strained to the +utmost. Fortunately the handhold above was sound and I was able to hold on +with feet dangling in the air, searching in vain for some projection on +which to rest. Those above were too insecure to give any efficient help, +and in fact possibly viewed my struggles, inasmuch as they were not fully +aware at first of what had happened, with as much equanimity as a person +inside a boat contemplates the gymnastic performances of a bather trying +to climb over the edge. As the cloud of dust cleared off, however, and +Maurer's face gradually beamed through it like the sun in a fog, for the +excitement had made him the colour of a cornet player giving vent to a +high note, they began to realise that something abnormal had happened, +while the distant thundering reverberations of the falling mass assured +them that it was no ordinary slip. Meanwhile Maurer planted his axe so as +to give me some foothold, and with a push from below and a pull from +above, fortunately simultaneous, I succeeded in planting my feet where my +hands were, and subsequently undoubling found that we were within a few +feet of the ridge, that the panorama beyond was undoubtedly magnificent, +but was thrown out in strong relief by deep blue-black thunder-clouds +advancing towards us. + +Jaun now removed his empty pipe from his mouth and replaced it by a +lucifer match, which, either as an aid to reflection or possibly for +medicinal purposes, he chewed as he contemplated the ridge. A miserably +cold wind with a remarkable knack of detecting all the rents in our +raiment whistled around; above, the summit of the mountain was enveloped +in driving thick mist and cloud. Still the final ridge looked fairly easy, +and indeed proved to be so. The snow was deep and soft, and the stones +below were so arranged as to remind us forcibly of a newly mended road in +our native country; big and little, all seemed loose, and all arranged +with their sharpest points and edges uppermost. The ridge is moderately +broad, and we were able to flounder along with fair rapidity. Spurred on +by the unpromising look of the weather and stimulated by the cold wind, +which rendered any halts so unpleasant as to be out of the question, we +set to work in earnest and found ourselves at the base of the final little +snow and rock cone earlier than the length of the ridge had led us to +expect. As we stepped on to the summit we experienced the curious +sensation usually arising when climbing through clouds, that the mountain +itself was sinking away rapidly from under our feet. The panorama was +wholly composed of a foreground consisting of mist, and presented +therefore comparatively few attractions. + +(M55) + +It was already so late in the afternoon that we could not have afforded to +stay in any case, and, as we felt that serious difficulties might possibly +be encountered in descending, we set off at once, visions of a warm +welcome and a hot bath at Ried rising before our minds. The idea of +descending by way of the Baltschieder Joch was negatived without a +division. The northern ridge of the Bietschhorn is a counterpart of the +one by which we had ascended, with the solitary advantage in our case that +we had to go down it and not up. The snow slopes leading down to the Nest +Glacier were much broader, and we were strongly tempted more than once to +quit the ridge for this western face of the mountain. Ultimately, +persuaded that the condition of the snow justified us in so doing, we +struck straight down on to the Nest Glacier, skirted round the ridge of +rocks dividing the Nest Glacier from the Birch Glacier, and catching sight +of a little green patch some way below, threw off the rope and rushed +precipitately down to it. Misguided by a few gleams of sunshine breaking +out between the driving clouds, we conceived the idea of repose and +thought that we might as well be aired and dried. Below, the hotel at Ried +was in full view, and it seemed but an hour or two from us: but our +troubles were not yet over. The five minutes' halt on such occasions not +uncommonly expand into five-and-fifty, and we rather deliberately averted +our gaze from the western view of the valley, up which the thunder-clouds +were advancing steadily in close formation. Eventually we decided to move +on, in order to avoid getting once more wet through. Vain hope: rapid +though our descent was to the level of the forest it was not rapid enough. +We ran furiously down the rough slopes, but, as the storm advanced and we +perceived that we should be caught, the agitation of our minds gradually +equalled the agitation of our bodies. We seemed to get no nearer Ried, +while the darkness increased rapidly around us. Knowing the proclivities +of guides on such occasions, my companion and I agreed that nothing should +induce us to leave a path, should we perchance find one. Now, in a dim +light it is exceedingly easy to discover paths, but extremely difficult to +discover that variety of track that leads anywhere. Determined, however, +to stick to our resolution, we found ourselves continually pursuing level +stretches right and left, only to find that, as routes to any particular +place, they were snares and delusions; that there was a path with long +zigzags we knew, and indeed, finally, a shout from the guides, who skipped +about downhill with an utter disregard for the integrity of their joints, +and adopted that curious cantering gait considered on the stage to express +light-hearted joy, announced that they had discovered the way. With +characteristic inconsistency, they had no sooner found what we had been so +long searching for than they proposed to leave it and make short cuts, so +called; but we were inflexible, and determined not to leave our path or be +seduced by the attractions of a perpendicular descent through an unknown +territory. The hotel lights were no longer visible, but we knew that they +lay straight below us. The question was whether we should turn right or +left. The guides settled the matter by darting off ahead, ostensibly from +a perfect acquaintance with their situation, but actually as we suspected +to avoid being worried with unpleasant topographical questions. Gradually +as we followed the track our stern purpose began to waver, for it was +pointed out by some one that the path, though undoubtedly a good one in +point of construction and general purpose, had two distinct disadvantages +from our present point of view; one being that it led uphill, and the +other that it ran in the wrong direction. There are certain contingencies +in life in which the Briton finds but one adequate method of relieving and +expressing his feelings, such, for instance, as when he finds himself +bespattered with mud from the passing hansom on a carefully selected +shirt-front and a white tie that would have moved to envy; or when, again, +as the last to leave his club at night he finds the only remaining +head-gear to consist of a well-worn beaver many sizes too large, with fur +under the brim and a decoration of little rosettes and bobstays. It is +hard to see why the ejaculation of any particular monosyllable should do +him good at such a juncture. Hard words unquestionably break no bones, but +neither do they mend the broken collar-stud or the ruptured bootlace; and +yet if he swallows the expression down it will certainly ferment within +him, and fermentation is characterised by multiplication. If, on the +contrary, he articulates his feelings, the whole situation suddenly +appears changed, and he can view the most untoward circumstances once more +with a calm serenity of temper. But the remedy, though potent, specific +almost, is too valuable to be resorted to constantly, and should be +reserved, like Thursday's razor, for the most special occasions. + +(M56) + +Our situation on the present occasion fully justified us in resorting to +the source of relief vaguely alluded to, and we employed it simultaneously +with the happiest results. Now the guides triumphed, and such was our +accommodating mood that we actually acceded to their counsel and embarked +on a perilous descent down a vertical gully. Scarcely had we turned into +it when the storm broke and the rain came down in sheets, and very damp +sheets too. Some one now suggested that the wisest plan would be to remain +under shelter till the rain had passed off. It was argued against this +amendment, and with a certain amount of force, first that there was no +probability of the rain stopping, and secondly that there was no shelter: +so we went on. Gradually, as we became more wet, we grew more desperate, +and before long floundered down as regardless of bumps as a bluebottle in +a conservatory: at one moment slithering over wet slabs of rock to which +damp tufts of moss were loosely adherent, at another climbing carefully +over gigantic toothcombs of fallen trees, then plunging head +foremost--sometimes not exactly head foremost--through jungle-like masses of +long grass and dwarf brushwood. Soaked to the skin, steamy, damp, and +perspiring like bridegrooms, we went on, utterly reckless as to our +apparel, and haunted by a perpetual idea that we should find ourselves +ultimately at some place whence further descent would be impossible. + +(M57) + +Within a few minutes the party divided and Jaun and I found ourselves +together. By the lightning flashes I saw him from time to time; on one +occasion he suddenly disappeared from view, and on joining him cautiously +a little while after I found that he had just previously seated himself +abruptly on a flat rock, immediately underneath a miniature torrent. The +fact that we did not at every ten seconds run against large trees +confirmed the idea that we were now almost out of the wood; accordingly we +halloaed, as the occasion seemed suitable, but no answer was returned from +our companions. Now came the question of how we were to cross the torrent +which we knew lay between us and the hotel. Jaun cheerfully remarked that +the best plan would be to find the bridge. This was obvious enough, but he +confessed that he had forgotten at what part of the river's course the +bridge lay. However, keeping close together, we made towards the right, on +which side the stream lay. The slopes were here more level and less +carelessly laid out. Our hopes revived, for the hotel could only be a few +minutes off, and between the peals of thunder we could hear the roar of +the torrent and could hear also the hollow sound due to the boulders +rolling over its stony bed. Of a sudden we came on to its banks, and +formidable enough the stream looked. The idea of searching for the bridge +seemed childish, for the whole of the frail wooden structure had probably +been carried away long before down to the Rhone valley. The hotel was only +a few yards off, and again the situation was exasperating enough to +justify a resort to extreme measures, if it were an extreme measure to +express forcibly a wish that the torrent might be--well, temporarily +stopped up at some higher point. Jaun now volunteered to wade across. It +was quite unnecessary for him to divest himself of any clothing for the +purpose, and in fact when he had succeeded very pluckily in reaching the +other side he was not in the least degree wetter than when he started. He +shouted some observations from the other side, which I took to mean that +he would go on to the hotel and procure a lantern. Accordingly I seated +myself to await his return, selecting unintentionally a little pool of +water, which however did just as well as anything else. + +(M58) + +Before long a flashing light advancing indicated that Jaun had been +successful, and two forms were seen dimly on the opposite side, one with a +light. The bearer of the lantern was an aged person in shirt sleeves and a +highly excited frame of mind. The aged person, on the distant shore, +gesticulated as violently as a marionette doll when its wires have got +hitched up wrong, and then, seemingly possessed of a sudden fury, rushed +violently down a steep place and beckoned frantically with his lantern. +This seemed to mean that I was to descend to a point on the bank opposite +to where he stood. It now appeared that there was a bridge within a few +yards of us, if a single spiky, submerged, and insecure trunk could be +considered such. The old man embraced me warmly when I had made my way +across, slapped me hard on the back, and then laughed very loud and +suddenly. Then he darted off with the agility and abruptness of movement +of an elderly lady from the country crossing in front of an omnibus, or a +hen, a foolish animal that always waits to the last moment before running +needlessly to the wrong side of the road. Guided by the lantern which the +impulsive veteran flourished wildly in every direction, so that no one +dared approach him, in another ten minutes we reached the hotel and found +ourselves, with the exception of our companions, who had arrived a few +minutes before--Heaven only knows how, for they did not--fortunately the +only occupants of the hotel. The volatile sexagenarian calmed down, put on +his coat, put out his lantern, and retired to repose in an outhouse, a +shelter to which I fancy he was relegated owing to certain physical +infirmities. + +(M59) + +It was eleven o'clock, and we had been pretty actively employed for +twenty-one hours. The idea of food and a change of raiment was not, +therefore, distasteful. A middle-aged female with an excessively +"rational" and hygienic waist, who said she was the waitress, volunteered +to serve the banquet, but the change of raiment necessary was naturally +beyond her means, while the idea of borrowing from the aged person's +wardrobe did not commend itself to us, so we ordered in a large stock of +towels. "But," I remarked, "you can't go about in a bath towel"--the truth +of which assertion was immediately evident, for they were so small that it +was difficult to fasten them with any degree of security; accordingly +blankets were requisitioned, and a very classical effect in costume was +thus produced, though what the Romans did when there was a gale of wind I +do not know. To keep up the delusion we arranged the chairs after the +fashion of couches, and appeased our hunger with a curious repast of +stewed apples and mixed biscuits, the sole articles of food that could be +discovered. However, to anticipate, we fared better the next day at +breakfast; for though Bright Chanticleer proclaimed the morn at 3 A.M. he +did not proclaim any subsequent period of time, as he was captured and +cooked for our repast. The waitress while we supped was busily engaged in +stoking up the stove, and seized upon our damp raiment with avidity to +have it ready for the next morning; so energetic was she in fact that we +felt it necessary to remonstrate, foreseeing the probability that our +clothes might have to be brought back to us in a dust shovel: we remarked +that, though sorry for our misdeeds, we would limit for choice the +repentant nature of our apparel to the sackcloth we were then wearing and +would dispense with the adjunct of ashes. The unreliable nature of the +fastenings of our costume prevented us from accompanying our forcible +remarks with properly impressive gestures. The remonstrance, however, had +the desired effect, and our garments the next day, though somewhat +shrivelled and inconveniently tight here and there, still proved that they +had resisted effectively the fire as well as the water. + +(M60) + +The amount of luxury found in the Loetschthal since those days has +materially improved. Time was when the only accommodation for the +traveller was to be found at the humble tenement of Mons. le Cure, a +worthy old creature as I remember him, who appeared to keep an apiary in +his back drawing-room and was wont to produce the most excellent honey and +the most uncompromising bread; the latter article, as one might judge, was +baked about as often as the old gentleman washed himself. But the milk of +human kindness flowed strongly in him (as it may be said to do in those +who have been made the subjects of transfusion), though, to tell the +truth, it was somewhat decidedly flavoured with garlic, and it needed much +resolution to attentively listen to the confidential communications he was +in the habit of whispering. A man of education and gentle refinement--at +any rate of mind--his was a hard lot, buried away in a squalid little +parish, with no earthly being to talk to possessed of more than one idea; +yet he slaved on contentedly enough with no thought beyond the peasants in +his own district and of how he might relieve their condition, too often at +the expense of his own welfare; isolated more than any ascetic, for his +mental existence was that of a hermit, from circumstances and not from +will. The thought of solitary confinement is terrible, but utter mental +isolation is hideous. Yet, while he entertained us hospitably with fare +which, though rough, was the very best he could offer, he would not join +in the repast: not, probably, from lack of appetite, but from a feeling +that, owing to prolonged seclusion and association with the peasants, the +more fashionable and accepted methods of preparing food for consumption +and conveying it to the mouth, with subsequent details, were somewhat dim +to his recollection. Yet his conversation flowed fast and he talked well: +the while any reference to friends and fellow-travellers would cause him +to pause for a moment or two, look upwards around the room, and fetch a +rather long breath before he recommenced. A curiously gaunt old creature +he seemed at first sight: with wonderful, bony, plastic hands capable of +expressing anything; grotesque almost in his unkempt rustiness; provoking +a smile at first, but sadness as one learnt more of him. And how closely +are the two emotions associated. In truth Humour was born a twin, and her +sister was christened Pathos. + +I can recall that he accepted a sum of ten francs when we parted in the +morning. His eyes glistened with pleasure as he took the coin and +straightway made for a ramshackle hovel on the hill-side, where lay an +aged person "tres-malade." Possibly after his visit there was left a happy +peasant in that tumble-down cabin--an emotional object more often described +than witnessed. But all this took place years ago, and as we passed the +collection of dilapidated tenements in one of which our old friend once +lived, I failed to recognise his former dwelling-place. The timbers grew +old and worn, the bands rusty, and one day the wheel which had worked +steadily for so long stopped. Yet the stream which had moved it ran on as +if nothing had happened. Was it a wasted life? Who can say if there be +such a thing? + + A few can touch the magic string, + And noisy Fame is proud to win them: + Alas! for those that never sing, + But die with all their music in them. + +We passed on: in a few minutes the houses were lost to view and there was +left but the reflection of how much more, worthy of study, there was in +this old cure's nature than in the majority of Swiss with whom +mountaineering brings us in close contact. + +(M61) + +As we descended the Loetschthal to Gampel the air seemed to thicken. The +excessive warmth allowed our garments to stretch once again to their +wonted girth, and we became less thoughtful. The vignette of the ancient +cure dissolved away and was replaced by a view (mental only, unhappily) of +our aiguille at Chamouni, black and bare of snow, inviting another attack. +Gampel does not tempt the traveller much to seek repose, and we therefore +caught the first train that came crawling along the valley and shaped our +course for Chamouni in a second-class carriage tenanted by a _pension_ of +young ladies out for a holiday apparently, who all chirped and twittered +and wrangled for the best places till the going down of the sun, like the +Temple sparrows. + + + + + + CHAPTER V. + + + AN OLD FRIEND WITH A NEW FACE + + + Chamouni again--The hotel _clientele_--A youthful hero--The + inevitable English family--A scientific gentleman--A dream of the + future--The hereafter of the Alps and of Alpine literature--A + condensed mountain ascent--Wanted, a programme--A double "Brocken"--A + hill-side phenomenon and a familiar character--A strong + argument--Halting doubts and fears--A digression on mountaineering + accidents--"From gay to grave, from lively to severe"--The storm + breaks--A battle with the elements--Beating the air--The ridge + carried by assault--What next, and next?--A topographical problem + and a cool proposal--The descent down the Vallee Blanche--The old + Montanvert hotel--The Montanvert path and its frequenters. + + +It was the summer of 18-- and our old quarters at Couttet's hotel knew us +once more. As we drove into the village of Chamouni we turned our heads +carelessly around to note the various new hotels that might have arisen +since our last visit. Observing that they were four or five in number, we +rightly conjectured that we should find all the hotel keepers complaining +bitterly of the hard times and the want of custom. Also we wondered in how +many ways it was possible to build a house without any particular system +of drainage, a deficiency which was at that time becoming very marked in +Chamouni, but has since, I believe, been improved. Yet the place itself +had not altered essentially. New buildings of imposing exterior and little +else do not materially alter a place that leads a life like that of modern +Chamouni. The population, which throughout the summer appears to pass its +time in the streets with its hands in its pockets, was still amusing +itself in the same way. The tone of the village was just the same as we +had always known it, and even M. Couttet himself had not succeeded in +imparting any marine flavour by building an odd little lighthouse with an +iron flag on the top which the architect had ingeniously represented as +streaming permanently in a direction indicating a wind favourable for fine +weather. We knew that we should find the same denizens in the hotel; and +they were there. + +(M62) + +There was a very young man with a very parti-coloured face from exposure +on the glaciers, who had recently completed the thousand-and-first ascent +of Mont Blanc and was perpetually posing gracefully against the door-post +or in a lattice-work summer-house a few steps from the hotel, gazing +towards the mountain and rather eagerly joining in any conversation +relating to the perils of the ascent. There were three or four young +ladies of various periods of life who gazed at him with admiration and +enquired at intervals if he wasn't very tired; to which the young man +replied carelessly that he was not, and inwardly thought that the +discomfort of sunburn and the consequent desquamation was on the whole +cheaply bought, the while he wished the expedition had not cost so much +and that so many others had not thought of making the same ascent. And +then there came a lithe, active lady walker who had been up Mont Blanc and +a great many other mountains too, and paid no more attention to the +guides' stereotyped compliments than a suspicious dog does to those of a +nervous visitor: so the young man's nose was put out of joint and he would +have laughed scornfully at the fickleness of hero worship had not the skin +of his face been in danger of cracking, and he wished his shirt collar had +not been starched and thumped by the village washerwoman into the form of +a circular linen saw. + +(M63) + +Then there was an excitable Englishman of impulsive habits, with a large +family who were perpetually playing a game of follow-my-leader with their +parent, and who were under orders to weigh anchor on the following morning +at five o'clock for the Montanvert and the Mauvais Pas. The boys were +stoking up for the occasion with raw apples, and the girls were occupied, +when not pursuing their restless father, in preparing a puggaree for his +hat. There was a gentleman who affected the curious untidiness of raiment +not unfrequently noticed among Sunday frequenters of the Thames, and who +sought to establish a mountaineering reputation by constantly gazing at +the peaks around in a knowing manner and wearing a flannel shirt of an +obtrusive pattern destitute of any collar. There were guides about, who +were on the point of being paid for their services and who were +exceedingly polite and obsequious; others whose "tour" had just passed, +were, proportionately, less deferential. There was an elderly lady whose +whole soul appeared bent on a little stocking from which she never parted, +and who turned the knitting needles to more account for toilet and other +small purposes than I could have conceived to be possible. There were two +or three mountaineers who appeared anxious only to avoid everyone's gaze +and who might be seen in byways and odd corners talking to bronzed guides +who looked like business. Finally, there was a gentleman of statistical +and scientific tendencies, much given to making quietly astonishing +statements of astronomical facts and gently smiling as he rolled over his +tongue and enjoyed the flavour of the vast numbers with which it was his +pleasure to deal. He absolutely revelled and wallowed in figures. +Buttonholed in a corner and compelled to listen with deferential +attention, I secretly writhed as he crushed me slowly with the mere weight +of his numerals. He shared with others of his frame of mind the +peculiarity of always keeping something in hand and skilfully working up +to a climax. Such and such a star was so many millions of miles off. We +opened our eyes to the proper degree of width and observed, "Bless me!" +or, "You don't say so?" Instantly he would rejoin, "Ah, but that's nothing +to so and so," and then favoured us with a still more immeasurable +distance. We expressed a slightly greater degree of intelligent amazement. +Thereupon he nodded his head, gently inclined it a little to one side, and +smiled softly. It gave him such evident pleasure to have a listener that I +attended with due reverence to his enthusiastic computations; knowing my +man, I felt sure that he was keeping back a real staggerer to finish up +with, and was prepared to assume varying degrees of surprise up to the +moment when it should come. Unfortunately I misjudged its advent, and +feeling that I had somewhat lost in his estimation by evincing undue +astonishment at a comparatively small array of figures, I sought to turn +the conversation by requesting to know how long he thought it might be +before the great rock peaks around us would have crumbled away to their +bases. The calculation was too trivial and the number of millions of +generations too small to interest him much, but he vouchsafed an +approximate estimate. + +(M64) + +I let him babble on and fell a-thinking. The peaks were crumbling away bit +by bit no doubt, the glaciers shrinking. At a bound the mind leapt into a +future which, after all, might be not so very unlike a past. The Alps +things of the past! What, I wondered, when the mountains were all levelled +down and smiling valleys occupied the troughs of the glaciers of to-day, +would some future commentators make of the literature so industriously +piled up by the members and followers of the Alpine Club? Imagination ran +riot as in a dream, and I fancied some enthusiast exploring the buried +city of the second Babylon and excavating the ruins of the "finest site in +Europe." I pictured to myself the surprise in store for him on digging out +the effigies of some of our naval and military heroes, and the mingled +feelings with which he would contemplate the unearthed statue of George +IV. It seemed possible that in that far-off epoch to which my friend's +calculations had borne me, the Alpine Club itself might have ceased to +exist. Pursuing his explorations in an easterly direction, the excavator +might perchance have lighted on a strange tunnel, almost Arcadian in its +simplicity of design, and marvelled at the curious and cheap idols of wax +and wood which the people of that ancient day had evidently worshipped. +Turning north again, this Schliemann of the future would pass by the ruins +of S. Martin's Church, eager to light upon the precious archives of the +historic Alpine Club itself. How eagerly he would peruse the lore +contained in the Club library, anxious to decipher the inscriptions and +discover what manner of men they were who lived and climbed when mountains +and glaciers were still to be found on this planet. Human nature would +probably not have changed much, and the successful explorer might even +have been asked to favour a scientific society of the future with the +result of his discoveries, to which in all probability he would have +acceded, with a degree of reluctance not quite sufficient to deter the +secretary of the society from pressing him. + +(M65) + +An abstract of his description of our sibylline leaves I fancied might run +somewhat in this style:--After commenting on the fact that the maps and +illustrations did not usually correspond in number with the list set forth +in the index of the volumes unearthed, he might proceed thus:--"In pursuit +of their great and glorious object these ancient heroes appear to have +undergone vast personal discomfort. It is difficult therefore to realise +fully why so many engaged in this form of exploration. Instances have been +given by other learned antiquarians who have studied the habits of this +people, of a similar purposeless disregard of comfort, such as the +four-wheeled wooden boxes in which they travelled about, the seats in +their churches, &c. The outset of their expedition was almost invariably +characterised by a display of bad temper, attributed to early rising. +After a varying number of hours of excessive toil the travellers were wont +to arrive at some fearsome chasm spoken of as a 'bergschrund.' On this, if +the subject-matter of their narrative was insufficient in quantity, they +were wont to descant and enlarge at length; sometimes, as we judge, in +their descriptions they enlarged the bergschrund itself. They then crossed +it. Immediately after this incident they were in the habit of eating, and +the minute and instructive details commonly given enable us to form a +tolerably accurate opinion as to the nature of the diet with which they +supported their exhausted frames. Next they traversed strange localities +for which there appear to have been no adequately descriptive expressions +in their own language. In fact the difficulty of deciphering these records +is greatly increased by the fact that the writers were versatile +linguists, for they constantly make use of words of a hybrid character. +They were evidently practised meteorologists and took much interest in +this subject, as may be gathered throughout from their writings. At length +they reached summits, of the nature of which we in our time can have but a +feeble conception. So great was their relief at the termination of their +self-imposed but toilsome task, that they habitually burst forth into +language characterised by a wealth of imagery and a fervour of poetic +description which unfortunately conveys but little idea to us in our day +of what they actually saw. In descending they were all commonly within an +ace of meeting with a violent death. The mode in which the danger attacked +them varied within certain restricted limits, but it always occurred and +the escape was always narrow. The peril over, they remarked that they +breathed freely again, and then at once fell to eating. Arrived at a +successful termination of their wearisome labour, they advised others to +do the same. They dealt out unsparing satire to their companions, +unlimited praise to their guides, and unmeasured ridicule to their porter. +They commonly expressed throughout their descriptions grave doubts and +uncertainty as to the issue of the expedition: a curious and noteworthy +fact, for the heading of the accounts always divulged at the outset their +ultimate success. The construction, therefore, of their narratives was in +accordance with a well-recognised model and appeared capable of little +variation. The only other facts that we can glean are that they were +prodigious eaters, were much pestered by some extinct species of insects, +and that they make frequent allusions to a substance termed tobacco. The +constant repetition of these incidents stamps upon their writings the +impress of unexaggerated veracity. Still they were not universally held in +favour, indeed were regarded with disapprobation by some individuals of +their own race. It would seem indeed from internal evidence that, had it +not been for frequent and sharp criticism of their proceedings, their +pastime might never have inveigled so many persons with its seductive +fascination." + +Now at the time at which these prophetic fancies were conjured up we had +just completed an expedition which it seemed might be worthy of attention, +solely on the ground of its very contradictoriness. For the features of +this climb were most opposed to those already mentioned, and in fact +mention of it scarcely seemed admissible in an Alpine narrative. We took +no porter with us to fill the role of first low comedy man. We had very +little to eat; our stock of wine ran out through a leaky gourd; our +tobacco was wet and there was no bergschrund, and yet all this happened on +a mountain close to Chamouni. + +(M66) + +"Some vast amount of years ago, ere all my youth had vanished from me," as +the poet says, at a date therefore which for obvious reasons it is +inexpedient here to mention, I found myself, as already mentioned, at +Chamouni. With me was an old mountain friend and fellow climber, J. Oakley +Maund. We were both burning with desire to add to the list of the many +successful expeditions we had made together, but, as a matter of fact, +were somewhat gravelled for lack of suitable matter. Like a ministry on +the eve of a general election or a gentleman without a sixpenny-piece at a +theatre, we were sorely in need of a programme. The locality was somewhat +unfortunately chosen for those in whom the ancient spirit was not yet +quite extinct and who wanted to do something new. Ever since the days when +Jacques Balmat, Dr. Paccard, and the great De Saussure had donned strange +apparel and shown the way--that is to say, for nearly a hundred +years--people had been climbing mountains in the district, and it was not +to be wondered at if it were hard to find some expedition which nobody +else had thought of, or, worse still, had achieved. We gazed at the map +and made thumb marks all over it. In every conceivable direction ran +little lines indicative of previous explorations. We studied the _carte en +relief_, but without much hope of getting any information of value from +this inaccurate and lumpy absurdity. Mont Blanc, which, according to this +work of plastic art, was modelled out as some eight or ten thousand feet +higher than any other point of the chain, had had all the snow worn off +its summit by much fingering, so that the component pasteboard showed +through. Rivers ran uphill in this map, and lakes were inclined at an +angle; bits of sticking plaister represented towns and villages, and the +whole article was absolutely bristling with little spikes and points like +the old panoramas of London or the docks at Liverpool. Still a +considerable number of people seemed willing enough to pay fifty centimes +for the pleasure of indicating elaborate expeditions on it with their +fore-fingers, and appeared to derive pleasure from gazing on a pasteboard +misrepresentation when they could by looking out of window see the real +thing for nothing. We abandoned the _carte en relief_ and took Jaun and +Kaspar Maurer into our confidence. The only suggestions that they could +make were the Aiguille des Charmoz and the Dent du Geant. The former of +these two peaks we had both tried to ascend in former seasons, without +success. Jaun did not think then that it was possible, and without sharing +his opinion we gave way to it. With regard to the latter mountain we all +thought at the time that an undue amount of what is vaguely termed +"artificial aid" would be necessary to ensure success, an opinion +confirmed by subsequent events, for when Signor Sella achieved the honour +of the first ascent he was only able to accomplish it by somewhat +elaborate engineering appliances. Some bold person of an original turn of +thought suggested of course a variation of some way up Mont Blanc, but the +utter impossibility of discovering the slightest deviation from any +previously ascended route and the utter uselessness of trying to find one +caused a general shout of derision, and the bold person thereupon withdrew +his suggestion and ordered some coffee. Besides, the weather was fine; +every day swarms of tourists could be seen, crawling up the sides of the +monarch of mountains, in numbers as many as the flies on a sugar loaf in a +grocer's window on a hot day. + +One evening we sat in front of Couttet's hotel staring pensively at the +familiar outline of the row of aiguilles, and wishing we had lived in the +days of Albert Smith, the best friend Chamouni ever had. At any rate, at +that time the natives were unsophisticated and the mountains about were +not all done to death. The valley between us and the chain was filled with +a light haze, not sufficient to conceal the outline of the mountains but +yet enough to blot out their detail and solidity. As the moon rose behind +the chain we saw a strange phenomenon. A silhouette was thrown forwards on +to the curtain of haze and photographed on it with sharp and clear +definition, so that we could recognise, at an immense height, the shadowed +peaks looking almost as massive as the actual mountains. Nor was this all; +a second curtain of mist seemed to be suspended, in a vertical stratum, in +front of the former one, and the shadows were again marked out on this, +infinitely more magnified and less distinct, but still perfectly +recognisable. As a result we were able to see the semblance of three +distinct tiers of mountains one above the other, looking so massive that +we could scarcely realise that they were but transparent ghosts of the +peaks; and the phenomenon, a double "Brocken," must have lasted for more +than half an hour. However, we desired something more of the nature of the +substance than the shadow, and ultimately came to the conclusion that it +was absolutely necessary for our peace of mind to accomplish something on +the morrow, and as it really mattered but little what that something might +be, provided a good climb was afforded, we must yield to circumstances and +perforce adopt the latter-day necessity of all mountaineers. If we could +not find the right way up some new mountain we could at least take the +wrong way up an old one. + +(M67) + +So the next morning we walked up to the Pierre Pointue as a preliminary +step--a good many and rather arduous steps--towards the object in view. The +exertion of toiling up the zigzags or the more rarefied atmosphere had a +remarkable effect on one of the party, whose face when we reached the +chalet was found to be wreathed in smiles and wearing an expression of +great intelligence. He had in fact become possessed of an idea. Bubbling +over with self-satisfied chuckles, he suggested that we should ascend the +Aiguille du Midi by the face directly in front of us and then descend on +the other side, thus making a col of the mountain. The idea found favour +instantly, and the intelligent person was so much pleased that he ordered +a bottle of wine, plastered over with a very costly variety of label, and +regretted it. Investigation of the cellar revealed only two casks of wine, +but the "carte" comprised a long list of various vintages. Fired with +enthusiasm and inflated with _limonade gazeuse_, we left the chalet and +strode vigorously up the hill in order to prospect the route and +reconnoitre the rocks. The exertion and the pace soon told upon us, the +sooner that it was a hot, enervating day; the kind of day that makes one +perforce admire the ingenious benevolence of nature in fashioning out on +the grassy slopes rounded inequalities, exactly adapted to those of the +human figure in a seated or recumbent position. The heated air rising from +the ground gave flickering and distorted views of distant objects, like +unto marine phenomena viewed through the cheap panes of a seaside +lodging-house window. The grasshoppers were extraordinarily busy; the bees +droned through the heavy air; the ants, overcome apparently by the +temperature, had given up for the time straining their jaws by their +foolish practice of carrying large parcels about without any definite +object, and had retired to the shady seclusion of their own heaped-up +residences; the turf was most inviting. It now occurred to us that there +was no absolute necessity for the whole party to ascend on the present +occasion, and that perhaps the guides might go up quicker alone. The +details of this suggestion were acceded to on the part of the amateurs of +the party with astonishing alacrity and unanimity. We laid the scheme +before the guides, and they also thought it a very fine one. Thereupon, +with much parade and ceremony, they braced themselves up for great +exertion, borrowed the telescope, remarked that they expected to be back +some time during the night, and started upwards with somewhat over-acted +eagerness. My companion and I disposed ourselves comfortably in the shade, +and resumed an argument which had originally commenced some days +previously. I waxed eloquent on the subject under discussion and with much +success, for such was the force of my logic and the cogency of my +reasoning that I bore down on my opponent, and reduced him in a short time +to absolute silence, from which he did not awake for nearly two hours. + +(M68) + +About this time the guides, who in all probability had also been +comfortably asleep within a short distance of us, returned and gave a +favourable report concerning the mountain. Elated by this news, we climbed +a short distance further up, and met there a large party of ephemeral +acquaintances who were taking an afternoon's pleasure on the hills. After +the manner of people when so engaged, they set forth with great energy and +climbed up a steep little rock tump a few hundred yards distant. Arrived +at the summit, they roared out unintelligible remarks to us, and we did +the same to them till we were hoarse; we waved our hands and hats and they +flourished their handkerchiefs as if they were our dearest friends on +earth, just setting out on an emigrant ship for the Antipodes. The party +then descended; the nearer they came the less friendly and demonstrative +were we, and by the time we met the warmth of affection recently +manifested on both sides had wholly evaporated, and we conversed in +ordinary tones on indifferent topics. Then they set out for another little +hill, and we were moved, apparently by some uncontrollable impulse, to go +through the same idiotic performance. Emotional behaviour of a similar +kind is not infrequently observed in the mountains. We journeyed together +back to the Pierre Pointue, viewing each other with distrust and +suspicion; and when it was found that we had bespoken the beds--if the +exaggerated packing-cases lined with straw bags could be considered +such--we parted on terms the reverse of friendly. So frail are the links +that bind human affections. + +(M69) + +Standing in front of the hut was a type of character very familiar in +these tourist-frequented districts. His exterior was unpromising; his +beard of a fortnight's growth, or thereabouts, somewhat fitful withal and +lacking in uniformity of development. A hard hat, with a shining green +veil folded around its battered outline, decorated his head; his raiment +was black and rusty, his legs cased in canvas gaiters fastened with many +little girths and buckles, and in his right hand he grasped a trusty +three-franc pole made of wainy deal, and surmounted at the top by a brown +knob similar to those which come out suddenly when we try to open a chest +of drawers in a cheap lodging. He fidgeted about for a while, asked +questions in a rather loud tone of voice at us, and we felt that it was +his intention to enter into conversation. It was even so. After a while he +sidled up and requested with much diffidence to be informed what we +proposed to climb on the morrow. Now the true mountaineer, however amiable +his disposition, always shrinks up into his shell when such a question is +put to him on the eve of an expedition. My companion indicated by a sweep +of the arm a space of territory extending about from the Mont Buet on the +one side round to the Aiguille de Goute on the other. Our friend surveyed +from end to end the extensive panorama suggested, then looked seriously at +us and observed that we should probably find it a fine walk. We expressed +gravely the opinion that he was quite right, and then went in to dinner, +while our composite friend expatiated on the project to his companions as +an expedition but little out of the ordinary run, and one that he was +perfectly prepared to undertake himself if so disposed; then he resumed +his contemplation of a rock some ninety feet or so in height jutting out +through the glacier above, which he was under the impression was a lady +descending from Mont Blanc. We did not learn his name, but the individual +may, nevertheless, possibly be recognised. Some points of the argument +were still unsettled when we climbed over the edges of our respective +boxes and vanished into the strawy depths below. The clear moonlight +streamed in through the window and prevented sleep; so I lay in my wooden +box thinking over the recent discussion, but with such a distinct +intention--like little Paul Dombey with Mrs. Pipchin--of fixing my companion +presently, that even that hardy old mountaineer deemed it prudent to +counterfeit slumber. + +In the small hours of the morning we got under weigh. For some time we had +been leading a life of sloth in Chamouni, and the delight of finding +ourselves once more on the mountain path, and making for a rock climb, +entirely precluded that fractiousness which, as all readers of Alpine +literature know, ought properly to be described at this period of an +expedition. The path was irregular and demanded some equanimity, for the +stumbling-blocks were innumerable and artfully placed to trip up the +unwary in an aggravating manner. Feeling it unfair that all the work +should be thrown on the guides, I had volunteered, rather magnanimously, +to bear part of the burden, and selected the lantern as my share. By this +means it was not only possible to walk in comfort over a well-lighted +track, but the bearer was enabled also to regulate the pace to a speed +convenient to his own feelings. Before long, however, we reached the lower +snow patches of the Glacier des Pelerins, and the light was no longer +necessary. + +(M70) + +We made straight across the crisp snow to the base of a promising-looking +rock buttress lying to the right of the snow gully that runs up the side +of the mountain, feeling sure that either by the rocks or the snow a way +up could be found. And now I am painfully conscious of a glaring defect in +this Alpine narrative. A mountain ascent without a bergschrund is as tame +as a steeplechase without a water jump, but candour compels the admission +that no bergschrund was visible. Either we had hit on a spot where the +orthodox chasm was filled up for the time, or else this particular glacier +was an exception to all others previously treated of in mountain +literature. In a few seconds we found ourselves on the rocks, delighted to +exchange the monotonous mode of progression compulsory on snow for the +varied gymnastic exercises demanded on rocks. The sun had risen, the axes +clanked merrily against the stones, the snow was in good condition for +walking, everything seemed favourable, and we gazed down complacently on +the distance already traversed. Above us the mountain was broken up and +easy, and we climbed on rapidly, each in the fashion that seemed best to +him. So good was our progress at first, that we were already far up the +buttress, and could barely see our morning's tracks in the snow beneath, +when a halt was called for breakfast, and we had time to look around. Now, +however unconventional this expedition may have been in many respects, the +sagacious student of Alpine literature will know that it must be wholly +impossible to omit all reference to the weather. As soon might one expect +two prosaic persons of slight acquaintanceship to abjure the topic at a +chance meeting. The western sky wore a rather ominous look of half +mourning, and heavy grey and black clouds were whirling about and forming +up in close order in a manner suggestive of rising wind. Even at this +stage of the proceedings the thought crossed our minds that the storm +which was evidently brewing might possibly overtake us, and that perhaps +we ought at once to turn back. + +(M71) + +One thing was evident; that we must decide quickly, whatever we did. We +determined to push on for a while, and with that intent girded ourselves +with the rope and worked our way on to the top of the first buttress. At +this point, further progress directly upwards was impossible, and we were +compelled to cross the gully and make for the rock on the left-hand side. +Considerable care is always necessary in crossing, horizontally, a gully +filled with snow, where the rope is rather a source of danger than of +security. We had to give all our attention to the passage, and when we +reached the rocks opposite, the climbing, though not formidable, was still +sufficiently difficult to occupy all our thoughts for the moment, and we +had but little leisure, and perhaps but little inclination, for +meteorological observations. At the top of the rocks a promising snow +slope, stretching upwards with gentle curves and sweeps, seemed to offer a +fair prospect of rapid progress. Such snow slopes are at all times a +little deceptive. Even when the climber is close to them they look +oftentimes much easier than they immediately after prove to be. From a +distance, say from under the verandah of a comfortable hotel, when the +climber _in posse_ indicates the way he would pursue with the end of his +cigar, they are absurdly easy. So, too, are obstacles in the +hunting-field, such as stiff hedges and uncompromising gates, easy enough +when the Nimrod studies them as he whirls along in an express train. +Subsequently, when immediately associated with a horse, these same +obstacles assume a different guise. Then are the sentiments of the hunter +prone to become modified, and compassion for dumb beasts becomes more +prominent in the thoughtful votary of the chase, till finally it may be +observed that the little wits jump sometimes more than the great ones. +Even so does the mountaineer often discover, on a nearer acquaintance that +the snow incline up which he proposed to stride merrily is inclined at a +highly inconvenient angle. However, at the commencement of our slope we +found the snow in good condition, and advanced quickly for some little +distance, but before we had got very far it was necessary to resort to the +axe, and we had then ample opportunities of looking round. The clouds were +lowering more and more, but as they were swept up by a sou'westerly wind, +the intervening mass of the mountain prevented us from seeing thoroughly +what might be in store for us. The wind, too, was growing stronger every +minute, and my companion, who was still pursuing his argument, and, as it +appeared subsequently, making some rather good points, had to exert +himself considerably in order to make his voice heard. + +Presently we halted for a few minutes on some spiky little rocks, and +again looked about. The weather prospects were just in that doubtful state +that prompts every member of the party to ask the others what they think. +Maurer looked exceedingly vacant and made no remark. Jaun put a bit of +snow in his mouth, but declined to give an opinion. We, not to be outdone, +assumed very profound expressions, as if prepared to find ourselves in the +right whatever happened, but, following the example of Lord Burleigh in +the famous tragedy, we said nothing either. At last, some one suggested +that we might go on for a little, and then see. Accordingly we went on for +a little, but then as a matter of fact the mists swept up around us and we +did not see anything at all. It was, no doubt, inconvenient that we were +unable to penetrate with our gaze to the regions above, but still we felt +that there was one slight counterbalancing advantage, for there was +present the haunting consciousness that the gigantic telescope of Chamouni +was pointed in our direction, and at least the enveloping mist ensured +that privacy which is not always accorded to climbers pursuing their +pastime within range of these instruments of science. + +(M72) + +In the hope that the condition of the upper snow might be good, and +perhaps rather mistaken in the height we had already reached, we made up +our minds to push on, with the view of reaching at any rate the top of the +ridge before the storm broke. Every now and again a rent in the clouds +above, lasting for a few seconds, showed us that the wind was blowing with +great force, as thin clouds of loose snow were swept up and whirled along +the face in curling wreaths. The spectacle might not, at first sight, have +been thought highly diverting: yet as we pointed upwards to the ridge and +watched the racing snow-drifts driving over the slopes we were making for, +we all laughed very heartily. So universal is the tendency to be amused at +the sight of discomfort that it even extends to the contemplation of its +occurring shortly to oneself. In the paulo-post-future the experience is +exhilarating: in the actual present it is less laughter-moving. Laughter +in the presence of events that are, in the true sense of the word, +sensational, comes almost as a reflex action (to borrow an expression from +the physiologists), and the sympathetic distress that follows takes an +appreciable time to develop. I can recall once being a witness with some +others of a ghastly accident by which several people were precipitated, +together with a mass of broken timbers and debris of all sorts, from a +great height. A door was burst open and the ruin met our eyes suddenly. To +this day I can remember sounds of laughter at the first view--hysterical if +you like to call it so, and not mirthful, but still laughter. In a few +seconds the realisation of what had happened came, and then came the +distress and with it expressions of horror, as all worked manfully to help +and rescue the sufferers. The sequence of emotions was perfectly natural, +and only they who have never passed through such an experience would speak +of inhumanity. There is no want of humanity in the matter. The suddenness +of the impression begets the train of emotions, and the brain grasps the +facts but slowly. To take another instance: I have been told by a man +whose quickness and presence of mind were remarkable--a man who as a +schoolboy won a Royal Humane Society's medal--that on one occasion he +witnessed a friend fall over a staircase from a great height. The accident +was in the highest degree unexpected: and the witness walked leisurely on +as if nothing had happened. But in a few seconds came like a severe blow +the sudden realisation of what had taken place. Thought is not always +quick. We can no more exert our minds to their fullest capacity on a +sudden than we can put forth our utmost physical strength on a sudden. +Action when almost instantaneous is independent of the higher mental +faculties, and is but a reflex. The experience of those who have been in +railway accidents will be of the same nature. In climbing up a very steep +or difficult place if a man falls all are prepared more or less for such +an accident. The whole attention is given to guarding against a probable +contingency, and it follows that the mind can instantly realise its +occurrence. And that such is the case I have been unlucky enough to +witness, though most fortunately the fall was attended with no serious +consequences. On the same principle, to take a more trivial example, on +difficult rocks it is the rarest possible accident for a man to sprain his +ankle or knee. The muscles are always prepared for a possible slip and +kept in tension on the alert. On the loose moraine, when walking leisurely +or carelessly, such an accident is a thousand times more likely to occur. + +(M73) + +Our leader worked away with a will, but the snow got harder at every step. +The growing force of the wind, which in nautical language had increased +from that vague degree known as a capful to the indefinite force of a +stiff breeze, and the increasing steepness of the slope, compelled Jaun to +make the steps larger and larger as we ascended. It soon became evident +that the storm would overtake us long before we could hope to get on to +the ridge, and that we had deliberately walked into something of a trap. +The steps had been cut so far apart that to descend by the same line would +have involved the construction of a fresh staircase, and on actually +turning, we found that what was a stiff breeze behind us was a half gale +when it met our faces. It was certainly easier to go on than to go back; +so we went further and fared much worse. The slope became steeper, the ice +harder, the half gale became a whole gale, and the delay between each step +seemed interminable. Suddenly, as we passed from under the lee of a +projecting slope on our right, a tremendous gust of wind, which seemed to +have waited for a few moments in order to collect its full forces, swept +suddenly down and almost tore us from our foothold. With that a torrent of +hail fell, and for a few moments we had enough to do to hold on where we +stood. Even my companion's conversation slackened. He had astutely +selected a place in the caravan immediately behind me, and as the gale was +blowing directly on our backs was enabled to fire off his remarks and +arguments without any possibility of response. Anything that I said in +answer was audible only to our leader, who took not the smallest interest +in the discussion. Unfortunately, too, it was difficult to listen with any +attention; for as the gusts came on we were forced to swing all our faces +round like chimney cowls instantly in the same direction. The squalls +became more frequent and more violent, the thunder and lightning played +around merrily, and as the wind howled by we had to throw ourselves flat +against the slope, adopting the undignified attitudes of a deer-stalker +nearing the brow of a Scotch hill--attitudes which bring somewhat unduly +into prominence the inadequate nature of the national costume. +Fortunately, as has been said, we were screened from view; and our poses, +though possibly ungraceful, were at any rate uncriticised. The big +hailstones, falling softly around, filled up the steps as they were made, +and our feet were buried up to the ankles in a moment. In a minute or two +the hurricane passed for the time; then we arose, shook ourselves, smiled +at nothing in particular, and the leader would find time during the +comparative lull to hack out three or four fresh steps. Certain sounds, +not accounted for by the elements, coming up from below, may have been +suggestions or may have been arguments, but they were knocked out of all +intelligible shape before they reached the head of the caravan. Not even +the porter at Lloyd's or the captain of a merchantman could have made +himself audible in that cyclone. Upwards we went, fighting for each step +and for each yard gained as hard as if we were storming a fortress. Even +while the leader had his axe in the air ready to deliver a fresh blow a +distant roar would betoken another onslaught, and we instantly fell flat +down like tin soldiers struck with the well-directed pea, and disposed +ourselves at a convenient angle of resistance; and so we went on, when we +did go on at all. If the relation is wearisome it is also realistic, for +we found that the actual experience was far from being lively; but all +things must have an end, including even the _feuilleton_ in a Parisian +newspaper or the walk up to the Bel Alp on a hot day, and the termination +came almost unexpectedly. + +(M74) + +We had got thoroughly tired of perpetually clinging on by the simple force +of adhesion to the storm-swept slope, and felt almost inclined to give up +the struggle against the elements and to go straight on trusting to +chance. Maurer, below, wore the expression of frowning discontent best +seen in amateur tenors singing a tender love ditty. Jaun had remarked +half-a-dozen times that the very next squall would infallibly sweep us all +away, and his cheerful prophetic utterances really seemed on the point of +being fulfilled, when, almost suddenly, the snow seemed to vanish from +under our feet, and we found ourselves on the summit of the ridge; at +least directly above us no more ascent appeared to present. It was +difficult to realise adequately the exact direction in which we were +facing, but I suppose that as the ridge runs about north and south by the +compass, we were facing a little south of east. This was an important +matter to decide, as the mist was gathered thick around and the idea of +descent had to be at once considered now that we had got to a position of +some degree of definiteness. At our feet the snow slope fell away in a +manner so distinct that we were without doubt really on the top of some +portion of the ridge. The difficulty was to estimate how far to our right +the summit of the Aiguille du Midi itself lay. However, we felt with +relief the truth of somebody's remark that we had at length succeeded in +getting somewhere; so far, no doubt, matters were satisfactory. Howbeit, +our pleasure was somewhat modified by the discovery that the gale blew +with considerably more force on the south-east side than it did on the one +by which we had ascended. We looked towards the south and endeavoured to +gather our wits together to elucidate the geographical problem that +presented. At the foot of the slope must lie the upper basin of the Vallee +Blanche and the Glacier de Tacul; unfortunately there seemed to be a +prodigious storm going on in that basin, and clouds of loose snow were +whirling about in all directions. It was impossible to understand these +winds; one might have thought that AEolus had just stepped out to attend a +committee meeting of the gods, and that all his subordinates were having +high jinks during his absence. + +(M75) + +The possibility of actually completing the ascent of the mountain seemed +out of the question, and the hope that we might have crept under the +shelter of the ridge to the final little rock cone of the Aiguille was +literally thrown to the winds. Here again, therefore, this narrative is +highly unconventional, for it is impossible to consult M. Roget's +"Thesaurus" and indulge with its aid in any grandiloquent description of +the view from the summit, although my account has now reached the stage at +which such word painting ought properly to be inserted. We turned to our +right, the direction in which the peak lay, and walked some little way +along the ridge till we got under shelter of a rock; now we were able once +more to stand upright and, huddled together, took the opportunity which +had been denied to us for some hours to interchange views. All agreed that +the situation was vile; that word, at least, may be taken as the resultant +of the various forcible epithets actually employed. All agreed that the +cold was intense, the prospect doubtful, and the panorama _nil_. There was +but one redeeming feature: extreme discomfort will reveal humour in those +in whom that quality would not be expected _a priori_ to find a +dwelling-place, and to each one of us the spectacle of his three wobegone +companions seemed to afford, if not amusement, at least an inkling of +complacency. Maurer removed the pack from his shoulders, and it was then +perceived that our cup of misery was full, and our sole remaining bottle +of wine completely empty. We had originally started with two, one white +and one red, of an inferior and indigestible quality, but had left the +white wine down below on the snow; we had previously drunk it. The other +bottle had broken against some projecting rock in climbing up, and the +resulting leakage had led to the formation of a very large circular red +patch in the small of Maurer's back, wherever that anatomical region might +be situated in our squat and sturdy little guide. After muttering together +in patois for a little while the guides seized their axes and suddenly +commenced with great vigour to hack out a large hole in the ice. We fell +to also, and for some few minutes all worked away with the best of good +will; the splinters and little blocks of ice flew around under our blows, +and before long we had excavated a flat basin capable of holding water. At +the least, the exercise had the effect of warming us, and Maurer, who +previously, from the effects of the cold, had been the colour of a +congested alderman in the face, gradually assumed a more healthy hue. We +now inquired what the object might be of preparing this cavern. Thereupon +Jaun gave vent to the ingenious suggestion that we had better remain where +we were and sleep in it. The idea seemed too likely to lead to permanent +repose to be commendable, and we received his proposition, as befitted its +nature, with some coolness, remarking that on the whole we should prefer +to go home. This view led to further conversation; ultimately we descended +a few feet on the south-east side and then made our way along the face of +the slope in a south-westerly direction towards the hut on the Aiguille du +Midi. The snow was soft, and we went on for some distance without +difficulty, till we again reached the ridge on the south-west side of the +Aiguille, having thus passed round the base of the final peak of the +mountain, which consists of a comparatively small rocky cone jutting up +from the main ridge. We were still of course a long way from the hut, but +as in this situation we were much more sheltered, we took the opportunity +to review the state of affairs and to consider our position, which for the +moment, like that of the pocket of a lady's ball dress, was indeterminate. +What were we to do? As with the diners at "Prix fixe" restaurant, there +were three courses for us: we might go down on one side, we might descend +on the other side, or we might remain where we were. The latter +alternative was as distasteful now as it had been just previously, and it +was negatived decisively. "Very good," said the guides; "if you won't stay +here we must go down that way," and they pointed in a direction westerly +by the compass. My companion and I were opposed to this plan for two +reasons: one that the route would, if it led anywhere in particular, take +us down to the Glacier des Bossons, where we did not want to go, the other +that by reason of the marvellous fury of the hurricane it would have been +altogether impossible to follow at all the line indicated. We were only in +fact able to dart out from under shelter of the rock and peer down into +the misty depths for a few seconds at a time, for the gale took our breath +away as completely as in the "cavern of the winds" at Niagara. To have +climbed down a new and difficult rock cliff in the face of the numbing +cold would have been little short of suicidal. + +(M76) + +It is Artemus Ward, I think, who describes the ingenious manner in which +Baron Trenck, of prison-breaking fame, escaped on one occasion from +durance vile. For fifteen long years the Baron had lain immured, and had +tried in vain to carry out all the sensational methods of escape ever +suggesting themselves to his fertile brain. At last an idea occurred to +him. He opened the door and walked out. By an intellectual effort of +almost equal brilliancy and originality we solved the difficulty that +beset us: we turned towards the south-east and walked quietly down the +slope for a hundred feet or so. Simplicity of thought is characteristic of +great minds. Why, nevertheless, it had not occurred to us before to escape +by this line I can no more explain than I can give the reason why all the +ladies in a concert-room smile, as one woman, when a singer of their own +sex makes her appearance on the platform, or why itinerant harp players +always wear tall hats. Immediately the complexion of affairs brightened +up. The wind was much less furious than it had been on the ridge, and the +hail was replaced by snow. Jaun now gave it as his opinion that the best +line of descent would consist in crossing round the head of the Vallee +Blanche and the upper slopes of the Glacier du Geant, so as to join the +ordinary route leading from the Col du Geant to the Montanvert. But in the +thick mist it would have been far from easy to hit off the right track, +and we thought it possible to make a short cut to the same end, and to +find a way directly down the Vallee Blanche towards the rocks known as the +Petit Rognon. We had no compass with us, but the direction of the slope +indicated the proper line of descent to follow. In most years it would not +be easy to discover the way through the complicated crevasses of the +ice-fall situated between the "Rognon" and the easterly rocks of the +Aiguille du Midi; but in 18-- so much snow had fallen early in the spring +and so little had melted during the summer, that we experienced +comparatively little difficulty in descending almost in a straight line. +During this part of the expedition the good qualities of our guides showed +once more to advantage. Unquestionably while on the ridge they had put +forward suggestions which were rather wild in character, and which were +proved now to be mistaken. The intense cold and the beating of the storm +seemed rather to have paralysed their usually calm judgment, and it is an +odd fact that guides, even when first rate, are oftentimes more affected +by such conditions than are the amateurs whom they conduct. We could no +more, with such experience as we possessed, have led the way aright as our +leader did with unerring sagacity, than an untutored person could write +out a full orchestra score. We could only insist on a given line being +taken if in their judgment it were possible. Once fairly started, we felt +that we must push our plan through, employing the same form of argument as +the man did in support of a bold statement that a certain beaver, closely +pursued by a dog, had climbed up a tree. It was not a question now whether +we could do it, or could not do it; we had to do it. The day was far +spent, there was possibly much difficult work before us, and the exertion +already undergone had been tolerably severe. The temptation was therefore +great rather to scamp the work of finding the best and safest track +through the ice-fall, but our leader displayed as much care and +thoroughness as if he were strolling over snow slopes with a critical +Chamouni guide behind him. A momentary glimpse of the familiar form of the +Aiguille du Geant right in front of us confirmed the judgment that we were +on the right track. In descending the ice-fall we passed to the right of +the Petit Rognon, and at the base of the Seracs halted and thought we +would have something to eat. Maurer produced our stock of provisions, +which consisted of one roll studded with little bits of broken glass and +reduced by the action of wine and water to the consistence of a poultice. +The refection was, therefore, as unsatisfactory as a meal out of a loosely +tied nosebag to a cab horse. And now for another departure from +time-honoured custom. All mountain narratives at this period of the day +make reference to the use of tobacco, the well-earned pipe, and so forth. +But the sleety rain, which for the last hour and a half had replaced the +snow, had soaked everything so thoroughly that an attempt to carry out the +orthodox proceeding did not, like most failures, end in smoke. So we +trudged on again empty and unsolaced. + +(M77) + +As the shades of night were falling, four dripping and woe-begone +travellers might, to borrow the novelist's common mode of expression, have +been observed toiling up the steep path towards the old Montanvert +hotel--that is, they might have been observed by anybody who was foolish +enough to be out of doors on such a detestable evening. We entered the +familiar little room, an ingenious compound of a toyshop and a barrack, +and notwithstanding that we were viewed with marked disfavour by the other +guests therein assembled in consequence of our moist and steamy condition, +we seated ourselves and called for refreshment. The atmosphere in the +stuffy den called the salon was a trifle pungent, and having contributed a +little additional dampness to the apartment we set off again. That +familiar old room with its odd collection of curiosities, in which the +fare was on the whole more disproportionate to the price than at any other +institution of a similar kind in the mountains, has ceased to exist long +ago. I fancy that it did not require much pulling down. It is happily +replaced now by one of the best managed and most comfortable mountain +hotels to be found in the Alps, a sure sign of which attraction is to be +found in the fact that it is, at any rate, spoken of with disfavour by the +inhabitants of the village below or by such as do not hold shares. Another +hour's descent and we passed through the few scattered houses just outside +Chamouni. The attractions on the way down had not diverted us from our +stern purpose of reaching Couttet's hotel as soon as possible. We had +politely declined the invitation of a perennially knitting young woman to +view a live chamois. The spasmodic smile called up by each approaching +tourist faded from her countenance as we passed by. Four times did we +decline the gentle refreshment of _limonade gazeuse_, once did we sternly +refuse to partake of strawberries, and twice to purchase crystals. It was +dark as we neared the town; it may have been my fancy, but I cannot help +thinking that I perceived our old friend the blind beggar with the +lugubrious expression which he wore when on duty, and with the tall hat +which served the purpose of an alms'-box, and which he did not wear when +on duty, enjoying himself in a very merry manner by the side of a blazing +fire. Notwithstanding that night had fallen there was still a little group +by the bridge round the one-armed telescope man, anxiously crowding to +hear the last news of the two insane Englishmen who had without doubt +perished that day miserably on the rocks of the Midi. A project had +already been started to organise an expedition on the morrow to search for +the bodies; and we might very possibly, if we had cared for the +excitement, have been allowed to join the party. + +(M78) + +As in a play the most striking situation is by the discreet author +reserved to the conclusion, so in this contradictory chapter the most +glaring deficiency comes now at the end. My readers, if they have +generously followed me so far, will recognise that we not only went on +something of a fool's errand, incurring considerable difficulty and +perhaps risk in that mission, but that we never got up the mountain at +all. The force of contradictoriness can no further go. Still, it may be +pointed out that we did actually accomplish all that was novel in the +expedition. Once on the ridge, the remaining portion of the climb is, in +fine weather, easy and well known, so the fact that the Aiguille du Midi +can be ascended by this line by any one consumed with an ambition to do +so, is beyond doubt. We were not probably at one point more than twenty +minutes or half an hour from the actual summit. I cannot honestly advise +anybody to follow our tracks; but in all probability, if someone should +desire to do so, he need not, under favourable conditions, contemplate +meeting with any unsurmountable difficulties. + + [Illustration: THE AIGUILLE DU DRU + FROM THE SOUTH] + + + + + + CHAPTER VI. + + + ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE DU DRU + + + "_Decies repetita placebit_" + + + Disadvantages of narratives of personal adventure--Expeditions on + the Aiguille du Dru in 1874--The ridge between the Aiguilles du Dru + and Verte--"Defendu de passer par la"--Distance lends + enchantment--Other climbers attack the peak--View of the mountain + from the Col de Balme--We try the northern side, and fail more + signally than usual--Showing that mountain fever is of the + recurrent type--We take seats below, but have no opportunity of + going up higher--The campaign opens--We go under canvas--A spasmodic + start, and another failure--A change of tactics and a new + leader--Our sixteenth attempt--Sports and pastimes at Chamouni--The + art of cray-fishing--The apparel oft proclaims the man--A canine + acquaintance--A new ally--The turning point of the expedition--A + rehearsal for the final performance--A difficult descent--A blank in + the narrative--A carriage misadventure--A penultimate failure--We + start with two guides and finish with one--The rocks of the + Dru--Maurer joins the party--Our nineteenth attempt--A narrow escape + in the gully--The arete at last--The final scramble--Our foe is + vanquished and decorated--The return journey--Benighted--A moonlight + descent--We are graciously received--On "fair" mountaineering--The + prestige of new peaks--Chamouni becomes festive--"Heut' Abend + grosses Feuerwerkfest"--Chamouni dances and shows hospitality--The + scene closes in. + + +It is to some extent an unfortunate circumstance that in a personal +narrative of adventure the result is practically known from the very +beginning. The only uncertainty that can exist is the actual pattern on +which the links of the chain are united together, for the climax is from +the outset a foregone conclusion. The descriptive account will inevitably +conduct the reader along a more or less mazy path to an assured goal. +There is certainly one other variety, but that takes the less satisfactory +form of an obituary notice. Even in a thoroughly well-acted play a +perceptible shudder runs through the audience when two actors select each +a chair, draw them down to the footlights, and one announces "'Tis now +some fourteen years ago." The expression in its pristine dramatic +simplicity may still be heard in transpontine theatres, but modern realism +insists usually on a paraphrase. The audience cannot but feel, however +thrilling the story to be told, that at any rate the two players have +survived the adventures they have to narrate, and on the whole a good many +wish they hadn't. There sit the heroes, and exert themselves as they will +their recital is apt to fall somewhat flat. In like manner I will not +attempt to conceal the fact that the ultimate result of our numerous +attempts on the peak which forms the subject of this chapter was that we +got up it, and the fact may also be divulged that we came down again, and +in safety. Indeed, it seems difficult now to realise the length of time +during which our ultimate success oscillated in the balance--at one time +appearing hopeless, at another problematical, at times almost certain, and +then again apparently out of our reach. + +(M79) + +In 1874, with two guides, of whom Alexander Burgener was one, we started +for the Montanvert with the intention of making for the ridge between the +Aiguille du Dru and the Aiguille Verte, with the object of further +investigating the route which Messrs. Pendlebury, Kennedy and Marshall had +essayed on an occasion already described, when the bad condition of the +rocks frustrated their hopes. The mountain was probably in a very +different state on this occasion, and we experienced no very great +difficulty in discovering a fairly easy route up the rocks. The chief +trouble consisted in the fact that the rock gully by which the ascent is +chiefly made was extensively plastered over with ice, a condition in which +we nearly always found it. The last part of the climb up to the ridge +affords a most splendid scramble. The face is so steep on either side that +the climber comes quite suddenly to a position whence he overlooks the +northern slope, if slope it may be called, and looks down on to the +Glacier du Nant Blanc. Seen in grey shadow, or half shrouded in shifting +mists and coloured only with half-tints, the precipice is magnificent; +huge sheets of clear ice coat its flanks, and the almost unbroken descent +of rock affords as striking a spectacle as the mountaineer fond of wild +desolation can well picture. + + If you would see this slope aright, + Look at it by the pale grey light. + +On the left the mass of the Aiguille du Dru cuts off the view of the +fertile regions; far away on the right the huge tapering towers of rock +form a massive foreground stretching away to the base of the Aiguille +Verte. The spectator too seems strangely shut off, so that, gazing around, +on either side he can see but a narrow extent of the mountain. We looked +down and did not like what we saw; we looked up and liked it less. The day +was fine and the mountain in good condition. I can recall now that our +eyes must have wandered over the very route that ultimately proved to be +the right one, and yet to none of us that afternoon did it appear in the +least degree possible. Unquestionably the crags of the Aiguille du Dru +looked formidable enough from this point of view, and we could not but +think that nature must have provided some easier mode of access to the +summit than this face seemed to afford. We climbed along the ridge till we +were almost against the face of the mountain, but then we had to turn our +gaze so directly upwards that matters looked still worse. Then we faced +about and climbed in the other direction. The rocks seemed to grow bigger +and bigger the more we looked at them. What the guides actually thought I +do not quite know, but at the moment my own impression was that it would +be impossible to ascend more than two or three hundred feet: so we turned +and came back. Even while we yet descended the thought came that this face +of the mountain was perhaps not so utterly hopeless as it had appeared a +few minutes previously, and in my own mind I decided that, should we fail +in discovering some much more promising line from another point of view, +we would at least return to the ridge often enough to familiarise +ourselves with this aspect of the mountain, with the idea that such +familiarity if it did not succeed in breeding contempt might at least give +birth to a more sanguine frame of mind. The farther we got from our point +of view the more hopeful did the mental impression seem to become, and by +the time we reached Chamouni we had all separately arrived at the +conclusion--somewhat selfish perhaps, but justifiable under the +circumstances--that if asked what we thought of the possibility of +ascending by the face we had tried, we would give honestly the opinion we +had formed while on the ridge, and not the opinion at which we had arrived +subsequently. + +(M80) + +Other explorers were meanwhile at work on the mountain, but so far as I +could learn all their attempts were made on the south-western peak. At any +rate they followed more or less the line we had first struck out. Some +thought that the lower peak alone was feasible, others that the higher +peak was attainable only from the south-western side. So thought Mr. E. R. +Whitwell; so again, Mr. J. Birkbeck, jun., both of whom reached probably a +much higher point on the south-western face than we succeeded in obtaining +in 1873. + +In 1875 we were making our way once more by the Col de Balme to Chamouni, +and being in somewhat of a reflective mood, induced by the consumption of +a soup-tureen full of bread and milk at the hotel at the top of the pass, +we sought a shady spot hard by whence a good view of the Aiguille du Dru +could be obtained, and contemplated the precipices as seen from this point +of view. The northern slope leading up to the ridge over which we had +looked lay well before us. The upper part of the mountain looked +distinctly different as far as accessibility was concerned. It seemed just +possible, if a way could only be found up from the level of the ridge to a +certain ledge some distance above, that the final mass might be feasible. +There appeared to be a sort of gully sloping upwards in a direction curved +away from us, in which the snow lay so thick that the rocks on either side +could not, we thought, be very steep. At the least it seemed to be worth +our while to make for this gully, which was obviously unattainable from +the ridge itself, for it was here cut off by a belt of straight rock. + +(M81) + +A few days later we carried the idea into effect. It was necessary to +engage some one to carry the tent, and Burgener was deputed to search for +a porter of a willing disposition and suitable physical conformation. +Presently he came back in company with a shambling youth of great length +of limb and somewhat lanky frame. We inquired if he were willing to come +with us, whereupon the young man was seized with violent facial +contortions, and we perceived that he suffered from an impediment in his +speech. Not wishing to render him nervous by our presence, we took a short +turn in the garden, leaving him where he stood. On our return the young +man's efforts culminated in the remark, "How much?" We said, "Twenty-five +francs," and then started off to consult the barometer. On coming back +after this interval we found that the young man had just previously +succeeded in articulating "Yes." The practical result of this one-sided +colloquy was that the next day the tall young man was laden with the tent, +with directions to carry it up to a point immediately opposite the +Montanvert below the Glacier du Nant Blanc. The tall young man shouldered +his burden and started off with great activity. We followed him somewhat +later under the rather transparent pretence of going to hunt for crystals +next day. Making our way up by a long ridge lying between the Glacier du +Nant Blanc and a little snow patch dignified in some maps by the +appellation of the Glacier du Dru, we skirted round the base of the +Aiguille looking constantly upwards to find some practicable line of +ascent, and hoping that we might discover one which would conduct us up on +to the main mass of the mountain before we had got opposite to the point +by which we had made our ascent from the southern side. It soon became +evident that we were very unlikely to find a way. Far above jutted out a +little horizontal table of rock. Burgener observed that if we could only +get there it would be something. So far his remarks did not appear +inaccurate, but it was perfectly clear before long that there was no +chance of getting any higher, supposing we could get on to this platform; +yet a little further, and we perceived that we could not even get to it. +Ultimately we discovered that the platform itself was an optical delusion. +It did not seem worth while to make any attempt to reach the summit of the +ridge from the side we were on, even if we could have done so, which I +doubt. The day may come when the climber will seek to discover some +variation to the route up the peak; but mountaineering skill will indeed +have improved out of all knowledge if anyone ever succeeds in getting up +this northern face. From every point of view we surveyed it, and from +every point of view, in our opinion, it was equally impossible. So in the +evening we came back once more to the tent, from the door of which +protruded a pair of thick boots. These encased the feet articulated to the +lanky legs of the tall young man, who had been enjoying a siesta of some +ten or twelve hours' duration. Kicking gently at a prominent bulging of +the canvas on the opposite side to the door had the effect of waking our +slumbrous friend, who was exceedingly sarcastic at our want of success; +so, at least, we judged by his expression of countenance. For a long while +his efforts yielded no verbal result. But his words seemed as it were to +stick fast in an endeavour to bring them out three or four abreast through +a portal that was capable only of allowing egress to them in single file. +Of a sudden the jostling syllables broke down the obstructing barrier, and +he startled us by pouring forth a string of remarks with precipitate +volubility. Knowing, however, that it would be some time before we could +hope to try the peak again, we were not loth to leave him under the +impression, to be communicated to his friends at Chamouni, that we had +come to the conclusion that the mountain was inaccessible. + +(M82) + +It was not till 1878 that we were able to revisit once more the scene of +our many failures. + +During the winter months, however, the thought of the stubborn Aiguille +had been from time to time discussed, and when J. Oakley Maund and I came +back to Chamouni we had very serious intentions. This time we were both +possessed with one fixed determination with regard to the Aiguille. Either +we would get up to the top or, at the worst, would, as far as lay in our +power, prove that it was inaccessible by any line of attack. By my wish, +our first attempts were to be made by the old route leading towards the +lower peak; not that we were very sanguine of succeeding by this line of +ascent, but rather because we felt that no very great amount of +exploration would be necessary to determine whether the higher point could +or could not be reached from this side; but though our intentions were +good we were scarcely prepared for the difficulties that met us from the +beginning. The elements seemed to have set their faces against us. Time +after time when all was ready for a start we were baulked by snow, wind, +or rain. Day after day we sat waiting in vain for the favourable moment, +sometimes at our bivouac high up above the Mer de Glace, by the side of +the Glacier de la Charpoua, till hope deferred and a series of _table +d'hote_ dinners combined with want of exercise to make the heart sick and +the individual despondently dyspeptic. Perhaps the wind would shift round +a point or two towards the north and a couple of fine days occur. +Straightway we set off for the tent which we left concealed at the +bivouac. Then came the rain again, and we had to return soaked and +dejected. Sometimes it rained before we got to the Montanvert and +sometimes after, and in fact we seemed to be making perpetually fitful +excursions from the kitchen fire at the Montanvert to that at Couttet's +hotel. On hydropathic principles we found the state of the elements no +mean form of cure for the mountain fever. Still, like the hungry butler, +we reflected that everything comes to him who waits, and seizing every +possible opportunity did manage to achieve some climbing during the rare +intervals of moderately favourable weather. + +(M83) + +The campaign was opened with an attempt made with Jaun and Andreas Maurer +as guides. A youth of hollow visage and weak joints (a relation, possibly, +of our friend with the one defective articulation), who did not much enter +into the spirit of the expedition, and who seemed by his expression to +echo Hamlet's interrogation as to the necessity of bearing fardels, +carried our tent up to the grass slopes by the Charpoua glacier. Here, on +a smooth, level patch of turf surrounded on three sides by rocks, we +established a little country seat, though we scarcely realised on this +first occasion how often it would be our lot to run up and spend the night +there, and to return to town the following morning. There are many and +excellent camping places about these slopes; dry dwarf rhododendron bushes +abound, and water is plentiful. There was no difficulty in rising early +the next morning, for at some time in the small hours the spindle-legged +porter was seized with terrible cramp. Under ordinary circumstances his +lower limbs were imperfectly under his control, and when thus affected +they became perfectly ungovernable, so that the neat order in which we had +disposed ourselves overnight for slumber was rudely disarranged, and we +were forced to rise and turn out till the spasms should have subsided. +Under the influence of gentle friction the spasms quieted down, and when +we left he was troubled only with a few twitching kicks, such as may be +observed in a dreaming dog. At 2 A.M. we started and wended our way up the +glacier, every step of which seemed familiar. To our surprise and delight +the snow was in first-rate order, and our spirits rose at the prospect of +a good climb; but the time had not yet come for success, and our hopes +were soon to be dashed. There was still an immense amount of snow on the +lower rock slopes over which access to the south-western peak is alone +possible, and this snow was in a highly treacherous condition. Before we +had ascended many feet the guides very properly refused to go on, a +determination with which we felt ourselves bound to acquiesce. They +pointed out that it would be unwarrantably dangerous to descend late in +the afternoon over deep snow, soft, and but loosely adhering to the rocks. +Under such conditions it is of course impossible to judge of the foothold, +and there is nothing to hold on to with the hands. There was no other +alternative, therefore, if we were to follow this route, than to wait till +more of the snow should have melted, or else to find a track where the +rocks were bare. As far as we could ascertain, however, there was no such +track to be seen. We decided to go back, but still remained at Chamouni, +for we durst not lose a single favourable opportunity. With an +imperturbability bred of long experience did we meet the sniggers and +sneers of certain croakers below, who looked with an unfavourable eye on +our proceedings. + +(M84) + +Within the next fortnight we made two further attempts by much the same +route and with the same guides, but only succeeded in going far enough to +prove that the opinion of the guides was perfectly correct with regard to +the state of the snow. Already matters seemed to justify some gloomy doubt +as to whether we could carry out even the exploratory part of our +programme, for Jaun was compelled to leave us in order to fulfil another +engagement, and we scarcely knew where to turn to find another man capable +of guiding us in the way we desired to go. Still our determination was +unshaken by our run of ill-luck. We would not give it up. With no more +definite object than that of justifying an impending _table d'hote_ +dinner, I was walking up the Montanvert path one rainy afternoon, when a +ray of sunlight suddenly burst upon me in the person of Alexander +Burgener. He had come over the Col du Geant with a party of travellers, +and to our delight was not only disengaged, but exceedingly anxious to +attack once more, or, in fact, as often as we liked, the obstinate +Aiguille. From the moment that he assumed the chief command matters began +to wear a different complexion, for we learnt that he had taken every +opportunity to consider and study the mountain. By his advice a complete +change of tactics was adopted. We decided to abandon all idea of attacking +the lower peak, and made up our minds to try the higher summit by the +route we had first followed four years previously. We had often discussed +together our chances of success on this peak, and had often come to the +conclusion that its ascent was more than doubtful. But now Burgener was so +positive of ultimate triumph, and so confident in his own powers, not only +of getting up himself, but of getting us also to our goal, that the whole +matter seemed placed before us in a different light. We might have to +wait, we might have to try many times, but still we could not but believe +the impression that now gradually formed that we must ultimately succeed. +To the spirit which Burgener displayed that year, and which he imbued in +us (at a time when it must be confessed that such a spirit was much +wanted, for we were as downcast as water-cure patients during the +process), and to his sagacity and great guiding qualities, the whole of +our ultimate success was due. I knew that, as a guide, he was immeasurably +superior to an amateur in his trained knack of finding the way, and that +in quickness on rocks the two could hardly be compared. But previously it +had always seemed to me that the amateur excelled in one great requisite, +viz., pluck. Let this record show that in one instance at least this +estimate was erroneous, for had it not been for Burgener's indomitable +pluck we should never have succeeded in climbing the Aiguille du Dru. + +(M85) + +Burgener was of opinion that from the summit of the actual ridge lying +east of the higher peak, and between it and the Aiguille Verte, it was not +feasible to ascend on to the face of the mountain, and he proposed +accordingly that we should commence by making a study of the rocks lying +to the left of the main gully running up to this same ridge, endeavouring +if possible to discover some point where we could bear off to the left on +to the real mass of the mountain. In addition he pointed out that the +upper rocks might be very difficult and require much time (as we had +already agreed together in previous years that they were altogether +impossible, this remark seemed probable enough), and it was important +therefore to discover the easiest and quickest way up the lower part of +the rock slopes. Accordingly we departed--and this was our sixteenth +attempt--from the Montanvert one morning at 1 A.M. We had long since +cultivated a manner of going about our business in such a way as to avoid +the gaze of the curious, and set forth on this occasion in much the same +spirit that burglars adopt when on evil errands intent. The day was +entirely spent as agreed in studying the lower rocks and working out +accurately the most feasible line of assault. But though we ascended on +this occasion to no very great height we were perpetually engaged in +climbing, and the quantity of snow which still lay on the rocks rendered +progress difficult and care necessary. Still it was no haphazard +exploration that we were engaged in, and the spirit of deliberation in +which we began begat a spirit of hopefulness as we went on. A fancied +insufficiency of guiding strength, coupled with a decidedly insufficient +supply of rope and an inherent idea that the new line of assault +contemplated was not to be worked out to an end at the first attempt, all +combined to drive us back to Chamouni late the same evening. + +(M86) + +_Apres cela le deluge_, and for a long time high mountaineering of any +description was out of the question. Desperate were the attempts we made +to amuse ourselves, and to while away the time. Sports and pastimes within +the limited area of the hotel premises were the fashion for a time. The +courtyard in front of Couttet's hotel was made into a lawn-tennis ground. +The village stores being ransacked yielded a limited supply of +parti-coloured india-rubber balls; the village carpenter constructed bats +out of flat pieces of wood, and we sought to forget the unpropitious +elements by playing morning, noon, and night. As a result several windows +and a lamp were reduced to ruin. Then we went a-crayfishing. A basket +carriage, which was constructed apparently of iron sheeting, but painted +over with a wicker-work pattern in order to deceive a flea-bitten grey +steed of great age with the impression that it was very light, conveyed us +to Chatelard, which by a twofold inaccuracy was termed the fishing-ground, +our object being to catch animals which were not fish and lived in water. +There the sport began, and was conducted on this wise. Sticks with a cleft +at the end, into which nondescript pieces of ill-smelling meat were +wedged, were submerged in a little brook to tempt the prey, but the only +bites we got were from the horse-flies and inflicted on our own persons; +howbeit, one or two of the party when at a distance from their +fellow-sportsmen averred that they had been on a point of catching +monsters of the deep the size of lobsters. We did not discover till +subsequently that, led astray by a plausible peasant possessed of riparian +rights and untruthful propensities, we had been fishing (or +"crustaceaning," to speak correctly) all day in a stream untenanted by any +crayfish whatever, the result being that we caught a chill and nothing +else. The ancient steed, moreover, though he bowled along merrily enough +down the hill to Chatelard and required no more stimulus than an +occasional chirrup from the driver afforded, was yet very loth to draw the +party back up the hill at the same pace, and required such constant +stimulation of a more active kind on the way back that it was found +necessary before we reached the village to stop and smooth out the creases +on his sides. The next day the report came that the spotted grey was "tres +malade," and the next day too my right arm was excessively stiff. + +A subsequent sporting expedition yielded happier results. One of the +party, gifted with diplomatic talents and a power of detecting the +vulnerable points in the character of the natives, purchased, for the sum +of one franc, information from a shockheaded juvenile suffering from a +skin eruption as to the best stocked streams. Then did the deep yield up +its carnivorous denizens. Artfully and in silence did the anglers wait for +their prey to claw the reeking bait. Deftly and warily did they withdraw +the rod, sometimes with two or three victims clinging in a bunch, and land +the spoil on the bank. Then would the crayfish loosen their hold, roll +over on their backs, flap their tails very briskly, and start off with +amazing rapidity for short country walks, speedily to be captured and +consigned to the recesses of a receptacle, bearing a suspicious +resemblance to Madame Couttet's work-basket. Ultimately they formed the +basis of a "bisque" not unworthy of Brebant. + +(M87) + +What time the india-rubber balls were all burst and the fishing-ground had +lost its attraction, seated on a tilted chair beneath the verandah we fell +a-musing and studied human nature, and the various types that presented +day after day round and about the hotel. Much was there to marvel at in +many of the costumes, to many of which the late Mr. Planche himself would +have been unable to assign a date. It has been noticed of course, times +out of mind, as a characteristic of the Briton, that a costume in which he +would not go coal-heaving at home is considered good enough for Sunday in +the Alps. One gentleman indeed, whose own apparel would have been +considered untidy even if he had been a member of a shipwrecked crew, had +been enlarging on this topic with much fervour, to a select audience, +dwelling especially on the discourtesy thus shown to the natives of the +country. I looked, when Sunday came, that he should be clad in raiment of +more than ordinary fitness and splendour, but the only changes that I +could perceive from the week-day vesture consisted in a tall hat, which +somebody had mistaken for an opera hat on some occasion, and a long strip +of rag wound round a cut finger, while his wife, who had recently been on +the glaciers, appeared in a low cut dress, so that she presented a curious +piebald appearance. The lateness of the season may have accounted for the +fact that many of the garments seemed rapidly to be resolving into their +pristine condition of warp and woof, especially about the region where it +is usual in the Alps to light the poison-darting lucifer matches of the +country. There were flannel shirts with collars on some, and flannel +shirts without them on others, while yet a third set wore white chokers +round their necks made of vulcanite, so that they looked like favourite +pug-dogs, or fashioned of a shiny paper, which obviously had no more to do +with the garment with which they were temporarily associated than the +label of an expensive wine at a second-rate restaurant has to do with the +contents of the bottle. Then we fell to anatomical study, and marvelled at +the various imperfections of development the muscle known to the learned +as the gastrocnemius(4) could exhibit in the legs of our countrymen, and +wondered why they took such pains in their costume to display its usually +unsymmetrical proportions, and wondered too if they really believed that a +double folding back of the upper part of the stocking below the +knickerbocker deceived anyone with an appearance of mighty thews. Then we +went off and tapped the barometer, which was as devoid of principle as a +bone setter, and kept on persistently rising. We made friends with a +little stray waif of a dog of obsequious demeanour and cringing +disposition, prone to roll over on its back when spoken to, thereby +displaying a curiously speckled stomach, but which was withal inclined to +be amiable, and wagged its tail so vigorously on being noticed that I +quite feared it might sustain a sprain at the root of that appendage. But +our friendship was short-lived. Before long our little friend found an +acquaintance in the shape of a small semi-shaved mongrel with a tail like +a stalk of asparagus run to seed. After a little preliminary walking about +on tiptoe, friendly overtures were made. The game commenced by the +playmates licking each others' noses; next they ran round with surprising +rapidity in very small circles, and then fell to wrestling in the middle +of the courtyard. These canine acquaintanceships always end in the same +way. Before long a sudden, sharp squeak was heard, and the last I saw of +my little friend was a vanishing form darting round the nearest corner, +with his tail as much between his legs as the excessive shortness of that +excrescence would permit. His playmate, somewhat disturbed for a moment by +this abrupt termination of the acquaintanceship, gazed pensively, with +ears erect, for a while in the direction in which his friend had vanished: +then investigated two or three unimportant objects by the sense of smell, +consumed a few blades of grass, yawned twice, stretched himself once, +rolled on something which had puzzled him, and retired to repose at a +little distance to await the expected medicinal effects of the herb of +which he had partaken. + +(M88) + +This is a true saying, that "There's small choice in rotten apples," and a +description of boredom in one place is much like the same in another. +Gradually, weariness of the flesh below in the valley became almost +intolerable, while we were longing for an opportunity to weary the flesh, +in another way, on the mountain. Ultimately, to my infinite regret, Maund +found himself obliged to depart to fulfil an engagement elsewhere, but I +still held on, though the conviction was daily becoming stronger that the +rain would go on till the winter snows came. + +(M89) + +On a mountain such as we knew the Aiguille du Dru to be it would not have +been wise to make any attempt with a party of more than four. No doubt +three--that is, an amateur with two guides--would have been better still, +but I had, during the enforced inaction through which we had been passing, +become so convinced of ultimate success that I was anxious to find a +companion to share it. Fortunately, J. Walker Hartley, a highly skilful +and practised mountaineer, was at Chamouni, and it required but little +persuasion to induce him to join our party. Seizing an opportunity one +August day when the rain had stopped for a short while, we decided to try +once more, or at any rate to see what effects the climatic phases through +which we had been passing had produced on the Aiguille. With Alexander +Burgener and Andreas Maurer still as guides we ascended once again the +slopes by the side of the Charpoua glacier, and succeeded in discovering a +still more eligible site for a bivouac than on our previous attempts. A +little before four the next morning we extracted each other from our +respective sleeping bags, and made our way rapidly up the glacier. The +snow still lay thick everywhere on the rocks, which were fearfully cold +and glazed with thin layers of slippery ice; but our purpose was very +serious that day, and we were not to be deterred by anything short of +unwarrantable risk. We intended the climb to be merely one of exploration, +but were resolved to make it as thorough as possible, and with the best +results. From the middle of the slope leading up to the ridge the guides +went on alone while we stayed to inspect and work out bit by bit the best +routes over such parts of the mountain as lay within view. In an hour or +two Burgener and Maurer came back to us, and the former invited me to go +on with him back to the point from which he had just descended. His +invitation was couched in gloomy terms, but there was a twinkle at the +same time in his eye which it was easy to interpret--_ce n'est que l'oeil +qui rit_. We started off and climbed without the rope up the way which was +now so familiar, but which on this occasion, in consequence of the glazed +condition of the rocks, was as difficult as it could well be; but for a +growing conviction that the upper crags were not so bad as they looked we +should scarcely have persevered. "Wait a little," said Burgener, "I will +show you something presently." We reached at last a great knob of rock +close below the ridge, and for a long time sat a little distance apart +silently staring at the precipices of the upper peak. I asked Burgener +what it might be that he had to show me. He pointed to a little crack some +way off, and begged that I would study it, and then fell again to gazing +at it very hard himself. Though we scarcely knew it at the time, this was +the turning point of our year's climbing. Up to that moment I had only +felt doubts as to the inaccessibility of the mountain. Now a certain +feeling of confident elation began to creep over me. The fact is, that we +gradually worked ourselves up into the right mental condition, and the +aspect of a mountain varies marvellously according to the beholder's frame +of mind. These same crags had been by each of us independently, at one +time or another, deliberately pronounced impossible. They were in no +better condition that day than usual, in fact in much worse order than we +had often seen them before. Yet, notwithstanding that good judges had +ridiculed the idea of finding a way up the precipitous wall, the prospect +looked different that day as turn by turn we screwed our determination up +to the sticking point. Here and there we could clearly trace short bits of +practicable rock ledges along which a man might walk, or over which at any +rate he might transport himself, while cracks and irregularities seemed to +develop as we looked. Gradually, uniting and communicating passages +appeared to form. Faster and faster did our thoughts travel, and at last +we rose and turned to each other. The same train of ideas had +independently been passing through our minds. Burgener's face flushed, his +eyes brightened, and he struck a great blow with his axe as we exclaimed +almost together, "It must, and it shall be done!" + +(M90) + +The rest of the day was devoted to bringing down the long ladder, which +had previously been deposited close below the summit of the ridge, to a +point much lower and nearer to the main peak. This ladder had not hitherto +been of the slightest assistance on the rocks, and had indeed proved a +source of constant anxiety and worry, for it was ever prone to precipitate +its lumbering form headlong down the slope. We had, it is true, used it +occasionally on the glacier to bridge over the crevasses, and had saved +some time thereby. Still we were loth to discard its aid altogether, and +accordingly devoted much time and no little exertion to hauling it about +and fixing it in a place of security. It was late in the evening before we +had made all our preparations for the next assault and turned to the +descent, which proved to be exceedingly difficult on this occasion. The +snow had become very soft during the day; the late hour and the melting +above caused the stones to fall so freely down the gully that we gave up +that line of descent and made our way over the face. Often, in travelling +down, we were buried up to the waist in soft snow overlying rock slabs, of +which we knew no more than that they were very smooth and inclined at a +highly inconvenient angle. It was imperative for one only to move at a +time, and the perpetual roping and unroping was most wearisome. In one +place it was necessary to pay out 150 feet of rope between one position of +comparative security and the one next below it, till the individual who +was thus lowered looked like a bait at the end of a deep sea line. One +step and the snow would crunch up in a wholesome manner and yield firm +support. The next, and the leg plunged in as far as it could reach, while +the submerged climber would, literally, struggle in vain to collect +himself. Of course those above, to whom the duty of paying out the rope +was entrusted, would seize the occasion to jerk as violently at the cord +as a cabman does at his horse's mouth when he has misguided the animal +round a corner. Now another step and a layer of snow not more than a foot +deep would slide off with a gentle hiss, exposing bare, black ice beneath, +or treacherous loose stones. Nor were our difficulties at an end when we +reached the foot of the rocks, for the head of the glacier had fallen away +from the main mass of the mountain, even as an ill-constructed bow window +occasionally dissociates itself from the facade of a jerry-built villa, +and some very complicated manoeuvring was necessary in order to reach the +snow slopes. It was not till late in the evening that we reached Chamouni; +but it would have mattered nothing to us even had we been benighted, for +we had seen all that we had wanted to see, and I would have staked my +existence now on the possibility of ascending the peak. But the moment was +not yet at hand, and our fortress held out against surrender to the very +last by calling in its old allies, sou'westerly winds and rainy weather. +The whirligig of time had not yet revolved so as to bring us in our +revenge. + + * * * * * * * * + +(M91) + +Perhaps the monotonous repetition of failures on the peak influences my +recollection of what took place subsequently to the expedition last +mentioned. Perhaps (as I sometimes think even now) an intense desire to +accomplish our ambition ripened into a realisation of actual occurrences +which really were only efforts of imagination. This much I know, that when +on September 7 we sat once more round a blazing wood fire at the familiar +bivouac gazing pensively at the crackling fuel, it seemed hard to persuade +one's-self that so much had taken place since our last attempt. Leaning +back against the rock and closing the eyes for a moment it seemed but a +dream, whose reality could be disproved by an effort of the will, that we +had gone to Zermatt in a storm and hurried back again in a drizzle on +hearing that some other climbers were intent on our peak; that we had left +Chamouni in rain and tried, for the seventeenth time, in a tempest; that +matters had seemed so utterly hopeless, seeing that the season was far +advanced and the days but short, as to induce me to return to England, +leaving minute directions that if the snow should chance to melt and the +weather to mend I might be summoned back at once; that after +eight-and-forty hours of sojourn in the fogs of my native land an +intimation had come by telegraph of glad tidings; that I had posted off +straightway by _grande vitesse_ back to Chamouni; that I had arrived there +at four in the morning, in consequence of a little misadventure, which may +be here parenthetically narrated. + +(M92) + +The afternoon diligence from Geneva did not go beyond Sallanches. However, +an ingenious young man of low commercial morality, who said that he had a +remarkable horse and a super-excellent carriage, was persuaded to drive me +on the remainder of the way to Chamouni. The young man, observing that he +had been very busy of late and had not been to bed for two nights (nor had +he, as might be judged, washed or tidied himself since last he sought +repose), took a very hearty drink out of a tumbler and climbed on to an +eminence like a long-legged footstool, which it appeared was the box seat. +With much cracking of whips and various ill-tempered remarks to his horse +we started with success, aided by the efforts of a well-meaning person +(judging by the way in which he wore his braces loosely encircling his +waist, devoted to the tending of horses), who, to oblige his friend the +driver, ran suddenly at the slothful animal in the shafts and punched the +beast very heartily in the ribs with his fist. Before we had gone a mile +our troubles began. The coachman's ill-humour subsided, it is true, but +only in consequence of Nature's soft nurse weighing his eyelids down. +Accordingly I got out my axe and poked him in the back when he curled up +under the influence of his fatigue. This made him swear a good deal, but +for a time the device was successful enough. Gradually the monotonous +jangling of the harness bells induced a somnolent disposition in me too, +and I conceived then the brilliant idea, as we were ascending the long +hill near St. Gervais at a walk, of planting the head of the axe against +my own chest and arranging the weapon in such a way that the spike was in +close contact with the small of the driver's back, so that when he fell +back it would run into him. Of a sudden I opened my eyes to find that the +jangling had ceased and the carriage stopped. We were undoubtedly at +Chamouni, and the journey was at an end. Such, however, was not quite the +case. As a matter of fact, we were not 200 yards further up the hill, the +horse was peacefully grazing by the roadside, and the young man had eluded +my artful contrivance by falling forwards off the box, where he lay +crumpled up into a shapeless heap, peacefully asleep, entangled between +the shafts, the traces, the splinter bar, and the horse's tail. + +I rubbed my eyes and forced away by an effort the confused jumble and +whirl of thoughts that were crowding through the brain. It was not the +sound of the parting farewell as the diligence lumbered away from +Chamouni, nor the slow heavy clank of the railway carriages as they +entered the station, nor the voices of the railway porters that rang in my +ears. Voices there were, but they were familiar. I started up and looked +around. Surely that was the familiar outline of the Aiguille du Dru clear +and bright above; surely that was Hartley (occupied for the moment in +mollifying the effects of sunburn by anointing his face with the contents +of a little squeeze-bottle), and there was Burgener; but what was this +untidy, sleeping mass at our feet? Gradually it dawned upon me that I was +but inverting a psychological process and trying to make a dream out of a +reality. Hartley was there; Burgener was there; and the uncomely bundle +was the outward form of the most incompetent guide in all the Alps. It was +not till next day that we learnt that this creature had previously +distinguished himself by utter imbecility in a difficult ascent up the +north face of the Zermatt Breithorn, nor did we till the next day fully +realise how bad a guide a man ranking as such might be. We kicked him in a +suitable place and he awoke; then he made the one true remark that during +our acquaintance with him he was heard to utter. He said he had been drunk +the day before; with this he relapsed, and during the remainder of the +time he was with us gave expression to nothing but whining complaints and +inaccurate statements. + +(M93) + +From four in the morning of the next day till seven in the evening, when +we reached our bivouac again, we were climbing without intermission; not +that our imbecile friend took any very active share in the day's +amusement. He was roped as last man in the caravan, and Hartley had to +drag him up the glacier. He was as slow of foot as he was of +understanding, and took no interest in the expedition. Twice we pointed +out to him half-hidden crevasses and begged that he would be careful. +Twice did he acknowledge our courtesy by disappearing abruptly into the +snowy depths. Then he favoured us with a short biographical sketch of his +wife, her attributes, and her affection for himself: he narrated the chief +characteristics of his children, and dilated on the responsible position +that as father of a family (probably all cretins, if there be any truth in +the hereditary transmission of parental qualities) he considered that he +occupied. Finally, as he appeared disposed to give us at length a memoir +of his grandfather deceased, we decided to unrope him and let him have his +own way in peace. For seven hours did he crouch under a little rock, not +daring to move either up or down, or even to take the knapsack off his +back. + +For the first time on this occasion did we succeed in climbing on to the +main peak well above the level of the ridge we had so often reached, by +means of leaving the gully at a much earlier point than usual. We followed +the exact line that we had marked out mentally on the last occasion. At +first progress was easy, but we could only make our way very slowly, +seeing that we had but one short rope and only one guide; for we had +injudiciously left the longer spare rope with our feeble-minded guide +below, and no shouts or implorations could induce him to make his way up +to us, nor had we leisure to go down to him; so we had to make the best of +matters as they were. We soon found a place where the ladder might be of +service, and spent some time in placing it in a position in which it +remains I believe till this day. + +Now, personal considerations had to a great extent to be lost sight of in +the desire to make the most of the day, and the result was that Hartley +must have had a very bad time of it. Unfortunately perhaps for him he was +by far the lightest member of the party; accordingly we argued that he was +far less likely to break the rickety old ladder than we were. Again, as +the lightest weight, he was most conveniently lowered down first over +awkward places when they occurred. + +(M94) + +In the times which are spoken of as old, and which have also, for some not +very definable reason, the prefix good, if you wanted your chimneys swept +you did not employ an individual now dignified by the title of a Ramoneur, +but you adopted the simpler plan of calling in a master sweep. This person +would come attended by a satellite, who wore the outward form of a boy and +was gifted with certain special physical attributes. Especially was it +necessary that the boy should be of such a size and shape as to fit nicely +to the chimney, not so loosely on the one hand as to have any difficulty +in ascending by means of his knees and elbows, nor so tightly on the other +as to run any peril of being wedged in. The boy was then inserted into the +chimney and did all the work, while the master remained below or sat +expectant on the roof to encourage, to preside over, and subsequently to +profit by, his apprentice's exertions. We adopted much the same principle. +Hartley, as the lightest, was cast for the _role_ of the "jeune premier" +or boy, while Burgener and I on physical grounds alone filled the part, +however unworthily, of the master sweep. As a play not infrequently owes +its success to one actor, so did our "jeune premier," sometimes very +literally, pull us through on the present occasion. Gallantly indeed did +he fulfil his duty. Whether climbing up a ladder slightly out of the +perpendicular, leaning against nothing in particular and with overhanging +rocks above; whether let down by a rope tied round his waist, so that he +dangled like the sign of the "Golden Fleece" outside a haberdasher's shop, +or hauled up smooth slabs of rock with his raiment in an untidy heap +around his neck; in each and all of these exercises he was equally at +home, and would be let down or would come up smiling. One place gave us +great difficulty. An excessively steep wall of rock presented itself and +seemed to bar the way to a higher level. A narrow crack ran some little +way up the face, but above the rock was slightly overhanging, and the +water trickling from some higher point had led to the formation of a huge +bunch of gigantic icicles, which hung down from above. It was necessary to +get past these, but impossible to cut them away, as they would have fallen +on us below. Burgener climbed a little way up the face, planted his back +against it, and held on to the ladder in front of him, while I did the +same just below: by this means we kept the ladder almost perpendicular, +but feared to press the highest rung heavily against the icicles above +lest we should break them off. We now invited Hartley to mount up. For the +first few steps it was easy enough; but the leverage was more and more +against us as he climbed higher, seeing that he could not touch the rock, +and the strain on our arms below was very severe. However, he got safely +to the top and disappeared from view. The performance was a brilliant one, +but, fortunately, had not to be repeated; as on a subsequent occasion, by +a deviation of about fifteen or twenty feet, we climbed to the same spot +in a few minutes with perfect ease and without using any ladder at all. On +this occasion, however, we must have spent fully an hour while Hartley +performed his feats, which were not unworthy of a Japanese acrobat. Every +few feet of the mountain at this part gave us difficulty, and it was +curious to notice how, on this the first occasion of travelling over the +rock face, we often selected the wrong route in points of detail. We +ascended from twenty to fifty feet, then surveyed right and left, up and +down, before going any further. The minutes slipped by fast, but I have no +doubt now that if we had had time we might have ascended to the final +arete on this occasion. We had often to retrace our steps, and whenever we +did so found some slightly different line by which time could have been +saved. Though the way was always difficult nothing was impossible, and +when the word at last was given, owing to the failing light, to descend, +we had every reason to be satisfied with the result of the day's +exploration. There seemed to be little doubt that we had traversed the +most difficult part of the mountain, and, indeed, we found on a later +occasion, with one or two notable exceptions, that such was the case. + +(M95) + +However, at the time we did not think that, even if it were possible, it +would be at all advisable to make our next attempt without a second guide. +A telegram had been sent to Kaspar Maurer, instructing him to join us at +the bivouac with all possible expedition. The excitement was thus kept up +to the very last, for we knew not whether the message might have reached +him, and the days of fine weather were precious. + +It was late in the evening when we reached again the head of the glacier, +and the point where we had left the feeble creature who had started with +us as a second guide. On beholding us once more he wept copiously, but +whether his tears were those of gratitude for release from the cramped +position in which he had spent his entire day, or of joy at seeing us safe +again, or whether they were the natural overflow of an imbecile intellect +stirred by any emotion whatever, it were hard to say; at any rate he wept, +and then fell to a description of some interesting details concerning the +proper mode of bringing up infants, and the duties of parents towards +their children: the most important of which, in his estimation, was that +the father of a family should run no risk whatever on a mountain. Reaching +our bivouac, we looked anxiously down over the glacier for any signs of +Kaspar Maurer. Two or three parties were seen crawling homewards towards +the Montanvert over the ice-fields, but no signs of our guide were +visible. As the shades of night, however, were falling, we were able +indistinctly to see in the far-off distance a little black dot skipping +over the Mer de Glace with great activity. Most eagerly did we watch the +apparition, and when finally it headed in our direction and all doubt was +removed as to the personality, we felt that our constant ill-luck was at +last on the eve of changing. However, it was not till two days later that +we left Chamouni once more for the nineteenth and, as it proved, for the +last time to try the peak. + +(M96) + +On September 11, we sat on the rocks a few feet above the camping-place. +Never before had we been so confident of success. The next day's climb was +no longer to be one of exploration. We were to start as early as the light +would permit, and we were to go up and always up, if necessary till the +light should fail. Possibly we might have succeeded long before if we had +had the same amount of determination to do so that we were possessed with +on this occasion. We had made up our minds to succeed, and felt as if all +our previous attempts had been but a sort of training for this special +occasion. We had gone so far as to instruct our friends below to look out +for us on the summit between twelve and two the next day. We had even gone +to the length of bringing a stick wherewith to make a flag-staff on the +top. Still one, and that a very familiar source of disquietude, harassed +us as our eyes turned anxiously to the west. A single huge band of cloud +hung heavily right across the sky, and looked like a harbinger of evil, +for it was of a livid colour above, and tinged with a deep crimson red +below. My companion was despondent at the prospect it suggested, and the +guides tapped their teeth with their forefingers when they looked in that +direction; but it was suggested by a more sanguine person that its form +and very watery look suggested a Band of Hope. An insinuating smell of +savoury soup was wafted up gently from below-- + + Stealing and giving odour. + +We took courage; then descended to the tent, and took sustenance. + +There was no difficulty experienced in making an early start the next day, +and the moment the grey light allowed us to see our way we set off. On +such occasions, when the mind is strung up to a high pitch of excitement, +odd and trivial little details and incidents fix themselves indelibly on +the memory. I can recall as distinctly now, as if it had only happened a +moment ago, the exact tone of voice in which Burgener, on looking out of +the tent, announced that the weather would do. Burgener and Kaspar Maurer +were now our guides, for our old enemy with the family ties had been paid +off and sent away with a flea in his ear--an almost unnecessary adjunct, as +anyone who had slept in the same tent with him could testify. +Notwithstanding that Maurer was far from well, and rather weak, we mounted +rapidly at first, for the way was by this time familiar enough, and we all +meant business. + +(M97) + +Our position now was this. By our exploration on the last occasion we had +ascertained that it was possible to ascend to a great height on the main +mass of the mountain. From the slope of the rocks, and from the shape of +the mountain, we felt sure that the final crest would be easy enough. We +had then to find a way still up the face, from the point where we had +turned back on our last attempt, to some point on the final ridge of the +mountain. The rocks on this part we had never been able to examine very +closely, for it is necessary to cross well over to the south-eastern face +while ascending from the ridge between the Aiguille du Dru and the +Aiguille Verte. A great projecting buttress of rock, some two or three +hundred feet in height, cuts off the view of that part of the mountain +over which we now hoped to make our way. By turning up straight behind +this buttress, we hoped to hit off and reach the final crest just above +the point where it merges into the precipitous north-eastern wall visible +from the Chapeau. This part of the mountain can only be seen from the very +head of the Glacier de la Charpoua just under the mass of the Aiguille +Verte. But this point of view is too far off for accurate observations, +and the strip of mountain was practically, therefore, a _terra incognita_ +to us. + +(M98) + +We followed the gully running up from the head of the glacier towards the +ridge above mentioned, keeping well to the left. Before long it was +necessary to cross the gully on to the main peak. To make the topography +clearer a somewhat prosaic and domestic simile may be employed. The +Aiguille du Dru and the Aiguille Verte are connected by a long sharp +ridge, towards which we were now climbing; and this ridge is let in as it +were into the south-eastern side of the Aiguille du Dru, much as a comb +may be stuck into the middle of a hairbrush, the latter article +representing the main peak. Here we employed the ladder which had been +placed in the right position the day previously. Right glad were we to see +the rickety old structure which had now spent four years on the mountain, +and was much the worse for it. It creaked and groaned dismally under our +weight and ran sharp splinters into us at all points of contact, but yet +there was a certain companionship about the old ladder, and we seemed +almost to regret that it was not destined to share more in our prospective +success. A few steps on and we came to a rough cleft some five-and-twenty +feet in depth, which had to be descended. A double rope was fastened to a +projecting crag, and we swung ourselves down as if we were barrels of +split peas going into a ship's hold; then to the ascent again, and the +excitement waxed stronger as we drew nearer to the doubtful part of the +mountain. Still, we did not anticipate insuperable obstacles; for I think +we were possessed with a determination to succeed, which is a sensation +often spoken of as a presentiment of success. A short climb up an easy +broken gully, and of a sudden we seemed to be brought to a standstill. A +little ledge at our feet curled round a projecting crag on the left. "What +are we to do now?" said Burgener, but with a smile on his face that left +no doubt as to the answer. He lay flat down on the ledge and wriggled +round the projection, disappearing suddenly from view as if the rock had +swallowed him up. A shout proclaimed that his expectations had not been +deceived, and we were bidden to follow; and follow we did, sticking to the +flat face of the rock with all our power, and progressing like the skates +down the glass sides of an aquarium tank. When the last man joined us we +found ourselves all huddled together on a very little ledge indeed, while +an overhanging rock above compelled us to assume the anomalous attitude +enforced on the occupant of a little-ease dungeon. What next? An eager +look up solved part of the doubt. "There is the way," said Burgener, +leaning back to get a view. "Oh, indeed," we answered. No doubt there was +a way, and we were glad to hear that it was possible to get up it. The +attractions of the route consisted of a narrow flat gully plastered up +with ice, exceeding straight and steep and crowned at the top with a +pendulous mass of enormous icicles. The gully resembled a half-open book +standing up on end. Enthusiasts in rock-climbing who have ascended the +Riffelhorn from the Goerner Glacier side will have met with a similar +gully, but, as a rule, free from ice, which, in the present instance, +constituted the chief difficulty. The ice, filling up the receding angle +from top to bottom, rendered it impossible to find hand-hold on the rocks, +and it was exceedingly difficult to cut steps in such a place, for the +slabs of ice were prone to break away entire. However, the guides said +they could get up, and asked us to keep out of the way of chance fragments +of ice which might fall down as they ascended. So we tucked ourselves away +on one side, and they fell to as difficult a business as could well be +imagined. The rope was discarded, and slowly they worked up, their backs +and elbows against one sloping wall, their feet against the other. But the +angle was too wide to give security to this position, the more especially +that with shortened axes they were compelled to hack out enough of the ice +to reveal the rock below. In such places the ice is but loosely adherent, +being raised up from the face much as pie-crust dissociates itself from +the fruit beneath under the influence of the oven. Strike lightly with the +axe, and a hollow sound is yielded without much impression on the ice; +strike hard, and the whole mass breaks away. But the latter method is the +right one to adopt, though it necessitates very hard work. No steps are +really reliable when cut in ice of this description. + +(M99) + +The masses of ice, coming down harder and harder as they ascended without +intermission, showed how they were working, and the only consolation that +we had during a time that we felt to be critical, was that the guides were +not likely to expend so much labour unless they thought that some good +result would come of it. Suddenly there came a sharp shout and cry; then a +crash as a great slab of ice, falling from above, was dashed into pieces +at our feet and leaped into the air; then a brief pause, and we knew not +what would happen next. Either the gully had been ascended or the guides +had been pounded, and failure here might be failure altogether. It is true +that Hartley and I had urged the guides to find a way some little distance +to the right of the line on which they were now working; but they had +reported that, though easy below, the route we had pointed out was +impossible above.(5) A faint scratching noise close above us, as of a +mouse perambulating behind a wainscot. We look up. It is the end of a +rope. We seize it, and our pull from below is answered by a triumphant +yell from above as the line is drawn taut. Fastening the end around my +waist, I started forth. The gully was a scene of ruin, and I could hardly +have believed that two axes in so short a time could have dealt so much +destruction. Nowhere were the guides visible, and in another moment there +was a curious sense of solitariness as I battled with the obstacles, aided +in no small degree by the rope. The top of the gully was blocked up by a +great cube of rock, dripping still where the icicles had just been broken +off. The situation appeared to me to demand deliberation, though it was +not accorded. "Come on," said voices from above. "Up you go," said a voice +from below. I leaned as far back as I could, and felt about for a +hand-hold. There was none. Everything seemed smooth. Then right, then +left; still none. So I smiled feebly to myself, and called out, "Wait a +minute." This was of course taken as an invitation to pull vigorously, +and, struggling and kicking like a spider irritated by tobacco smoke, I +topped the rock and lent a hand on the rope for Hartley to follow. Then we +learnt that a great mass of ice had broken away under Maurer's feet while +they were in the gully, and that he must have fallen had not Burgener +pinned him to the rock with one hand. From the number of times that this +escape was described to us during that day and the next, I am inclined to +think that it was rather a near thing. At the time, and often since, I +have questioned myself as to whether we could have got up this passage +without the rope let down from above. I think either of us could have done +it in time with a companion. It was necessary for two to be in the gully +at the same time, to assist each other. It was necessary also to discard +the rope, which in such a place could only be a source of danger. But no +amateur should have tried the passage on that occasion without confidence +in his own powers, and without absolute knowledge of the limit of his own +powers. If the gully had been free from ice it would have been much +easier. + +(M100) + +"The worst is over now," said Burgener. I was glad to hear it, but, +looking upwards, had my doubts. The higher we went the bigger the rocks +seemed to be. Still there was a way, and it was not so very unlike what I +had, times out of mind, pictured to myself in imagination. Another tough +scramble and we stood on a comparatively extensive ledge. With elation we +observed that we had now climbed more than half of the only part of the +mountain of the nature of which we were uncertain. A few steps on and +Burgener grasped me suddenly by the arm. "Do you see the great red rock up +yonder?" he whispered, hoarse with excitement--"in ten minutes we shall be +there and on the arete, and then----" Nothing could stop us now; but a +feverish anxiety to see what lay beyond, to look on the final slope which +we knew must be easy, impelled us on, and we worked harder than ever to +overcome the last few obstacles. The ten minutes expanded into something +like thirty before we really reached the rock. Of a sudden the mountain +seemed to change its form. For hours we had been climbing the hard, dry +rocks. Now these appeared suddenly to vanish from under our feet, and once +again our eyes fell on snow which lay thick, half hiding, half revealing, +the final slope of the ridge. A glance along it showed that we had not +misjudged. Even the cautious Maurer admitted that, as far as we could see, +all appeared promising. And now, with the prize almost within our grasp, a +strange desire to halt and hang back came on. Burgener tapped the rock +with his axe, and we seemed somehow to regret that the way in front of us +must prove comparatively easy. Our foe had almost yielded, and it appeared +something like cruelty to administer the final _coup de grace_. We could +already anticipate the half-sad feeling with which we should reach the top +itself. It needed but little to make the feeling give way. Some one cried +"Forwards," and instantly we were all in our places again, and the +leader's axe crashed through the layers of snow into the hard blue ice +beneath. A dozen steps, and then a short bit of rock scramble; then more +steps along the south side of the ridge, followed by more rock, and the +ridge beyond, which had been hidden for a minute or two, stretched out +before us again as we topped the first eminence. Better and better it +looked as we went on. "See there," cried Burgener suddenly, "the actual +top!" + +(M101) + +There was no possibility of mistaking the two huge stones we had so often +looked at from below. They seemed, in the excitement of the moment, misty +and blurred for a brief space, but grew clear again as I passed my hand +over my eyes and seemed to swallow something. A few feet below the +pinnacles and on the left was one of those strange arches formed by a +great transverse boulder, so common near the summits of these aiguilles, +and through the hole we could see blue sky. Nothing could lay beyond, and, +still better, nothing could be above. On again, while we could scarcely +stand still in the great steps the leader set his teeth to hack out. Then +there came a short troublesome bit of snow scramble, where the heaped-up +cornice had fallen back from the final rock. There we paused for a moment, +for the summit was but a few feet from us, and Hartley, who was ahead, +courteously allowed me to unrope and go on first. In a few seconds I +clutched at the last broken rocks, and hauled myself up on to the sloping +summit. There for a moment I stood alone gazing down on Chamouni. The +holiday dream of five years was accomplished; the Aiguille du Dru was +climbed. Where in the wide world will you find a sport able to yield +pleasure like this? + +Mountaineers are often asked, "What did you do when you got to the top?" +With regard to this peak the same question has often been put to me, and I +have often answered it, but, it must be confessed, always suppressing one +or two facts. I do not know why I should conceal them now any longer, the +more especially as I think there is a moral to be drawn from my +experience, or I would still keep it locked up. I had tried so hard and so +long to get up this little peak, that some reaction of mind was not +improbable; but it took a turn which I had never before and have never +since experienced in the slightest degree. For a second or two--it cannot +have been longer--all the past seemed blotted out, all consciousness of +self, all desire of life was lost, and I was seized with an impulse almost +incontrollable to throw myself down the vertical precipice which lay +immediately at my feet. I know not now, though the feeling is still and +always will be intensely vivid, how it was resisted, but at the sound of +the voices below the faculties seemed to return each to its proper place, +and with the restoration of the mental balance the momentary idea of +violently overturning the physical balance vanished. What has happened to +one may have happened to others. It appeared to me quite different from +what is known as mountain vertigo. In fact, I never moved at all from +where I stood, and awoke, as it were, to find myself looking calmly down +the identical place. It may be that the mental equilibrium under similar +circumstances has not always been so fortunately restored, and that thus +calamities on the mountains may have taken place. In another minute the +rest of the party ascended, and we were all reposing on the hard-won +summit. + +(M102) + +Far below a little white speck representing Couttet's Hotel was well in +view, and towards this we directed our telescope. We could make out a few +individuals wandering listlessly about, but there did not seem to be much +excitement; in front of the Imperial Hotel, however, we were pleased to +imagine that we saw somebody gazing in our direction. Accordingly, with +much pomp and ceremony, the stick--which it may be stated was borrowed +without leave--was fixed into a little cleft and tightly wedged in; then, +to my horror, Burgener, with many chuckles at his own foresight and at the +completeness of his equipment, produced from a concealed pocket a piece of +scarlet flannel strongly suggestive of a baby's under garment, and tied it +on to the stick. I protested in vain; in a moment the objectionable rag +was floating proudly in the breeze. However, it seemed to want airing. +Determined that our ascent should be placed beyond doubt in the eyes of +any subsequent visitors, we ransacked our stores, and were enabled to +leave the following articles:--One half-pint bottle containing our names, +preserved by a paper stopper from the inclemency of the weather; two +wooden wedges of unknown use, two ends of string, three burnt fusees, +divers chips, one stone man of dwarf proportions, the tenpenny stick, and +the infant's petticoat. + +There is a popular belief that the main object of climbing up a mountain +is to get a view from the top. It may therefore be a matter of regret to +some, but it will certainly be a matter of great congratulation to many +others, that of the view obtained I can say but little. Chamouni looked +very nice, however, from this distance. Turning towards the Aiguille Verte +we were astonished to notice that this great mass appeared to tower far +less above us than might have been expected from its much greater height +and close proximity. On the other hand, the lower south-eastern peak of +the Aiguille du Dru seemed much more below us than we had imagined would +be the case. It is a moot point in mountaineering circles how much +difference between two closely contiguous points is necessary in order +that they may be rated as individual peaks. At the time we estimated the +difference between the two peaks of our Aiguille to be about 80 feet, but +Hartley, who has since climbed the lower point, estimates that the +difference between the two must be at the very least 120 feet. Still, the +comparative meagreness of the panorama did not affect our spirits, nor +detract in any appreciable degree from the completeness of the expedition. +The Aiguille du Dru is essentially an expedition only for those who love a +good climb for climbing's sake. Every step, every bit of scrambling, +was--and is still--a pleasure. + +(M103) + +We had reached the top at half-past twelve, so that our estimate of the +time required had been a very accurate one. After spending three-quarters +of an hour on the summit we turned to the descent with regret, and +possessed with much the same feeling as a schoolboy on Black Monday, who +takes an affectionate farewell of all sorts of inanimate objects. Very +difficult the descent proved to be. We were so anxious, now that our +efforts had been finally crowned with success, that the whole expedition +should pass off without the least misadventure, that we went much more +slowly, and took more elaborate precautions than under ordinary +circumstances would have been deemed necessary. From the start we had +agreed that, whatever the hour, nothing should persuade us to hurry the +least in the descent. On such mountains, however, as the Aiguille du Dru +it is easier on the whole to get down than to get up, especially if a good +supply of spare rope be included in the equipment. At three places we +found it advisable to fix ropes in order to assist our progress. It was +curious to observe how marvellously the aspect of the mountain was changed +as we looked down the places up which we had climbed so recently; and +there were so many deviations from the straight line, that the way was +very difficult to find at all. Indeed, Burgener alone could hit it off +with certainty, and, though last on the rope, directed the way without +ever making the slightest mistake at any part. We followed precisely the +same route as in ascending, and noticed few if any places where this route +was capable of improvement, or even of alteration. + +Not till nearly five o'clock did we regain our abandoned store of +provisions; the sight of the little white packets, and especially of a +certain can of tinned meat, seen at a considerable distance below, incited +us to great exertions, for since ten in the morning we had partaken of +nothing but a sandwich crushed out of all recognisable shape. Ignoring the +probability of being benighted on the rocks, we caroused merrily on +seltzer water and the contents of the tin can. It seemed almost a pity to +quit for good these familiar rocks on which we had spent such a glorious +time, and the sun was sinking low behind the Brevent range, and the rocks +were all darkened in the grey shadows, before the guides could persuade us +to pack up and resume our journey. Very little time was lost in descending +when we had once started, but before we had reached a certain little +sloping ledge furnished with a collection of little pointed stones, and +known as the breakfast place, the darkness had overtaken us. The glacier +lay only a few feet below, when the mist which had been long threatening +swept up and closed in around us. The crevasses at the head of the glacier +were so complicated, and the snow bridges so fragile, that we thought it +wiser not to go on at once, but to wait till the snow should have had time +to harden. So we sat down under an overhanging rock, and made believe that +we enjoyed the fun. Hartley wedged a stone under his waist, as if he were +the hind wheel of a waggon going uphill, and imitated the inaction and +attitude of a person going to sleep. The guides retired to a little +distance and, as is their wont when inactive, fell to a warm discussion +over the dimensions of the different chamois they had shot, each of course +outvying the other in turn. The game has this merit at least, when there +is plenty of spare time at disposal, that if the players only begin low +enough down in the animal scale it is practically unlimited. + +(M104) + +Before long the situation ceased to be amusing, as we found that we had +managed to get wet through in the gully, and that the slowly falling +temperature was exceedingly unpleasant. I converted a cowhide knapsack +into a temporary foot-warmer, much to the detriment of such articles of +food as were still stored in its recesses, and tucked a boot under each +arm to keep the leather from hardening. Then we fell to discussing what we +would have next day for breakfast, and for some two hours found a certain +amount of solace in disputing over the merits of divers dainty dishes. +Even this fertile subject failed at length to give adequate satisfaction. +The ledge became colder and colder, and new spiky little points appeared +to develop every moment. The argument of the sportsmen grew fainter, and +we became slowly chilled through. For a while the mind became more active, +but less logical, and fanciful visions crowded thickly through it. On such +occasions it is seldom possible to fix the thoughts on events immediately +past. To my drowsy gaze the mist seemed to take the form of our native +fogs, while the condition of the ledge suggested obtrusively a newly +macadamised road. Almost at will I could transport myself in imagination +to the metropolis I had so recently left, or back again to the wild little +ledge on which we were stranded. Following up the train of sensations, it +was easy to conceive how reason might fail altogether, and how gradually, +as the senses became numbed one by one, delirium might supervene from cold +and exposure--as has often happened to arctic travellers. The thoughts flew +off far afield, and pictured the exact contrast of the immediate +surroundings. I saw a brilliantly lighted street with long rows of flaming +lamps. The windows of the clubhouses shone out as great red and orange +squares and oblongs. Carriages dashed by, cabs oscillated down the roads. +Elegantly attired youths about to commence their wakeful period (why are +men who only know the seamy side of life called "men of the world"? Is it +so bad a world, my masters?) were strolling off to places of +entertainment. A feeble, ragged creature crept along in the shadows. A +worn, bright-eyed girl, just free from work which had begun at early dawn, +dragged her aching limbs homewards, but stopped a moment to glance with +envy at a mamma and two fair daughters crossing the pavement to their +carriage; light, life, bustle, crowding everywhere. Faster and faster +follow the shifting scenes till the visions jostle and become confused----A +crack, a distant sound of a falling shower of stones, a hiss as they fall +on to the snow slopes below. The eyes open, but the mind only half awakes, +and almost immediately dreams again, with changed visions of comfortable +rooms, in which the flickering light of a coal fire now throws up, now +half conceals the close-drawn curtains, or the familiar form of books and +pictures; visions of some formless individual with slippered feet disposed +at judicious distance from the blazing coals, of soft carpets and deep +arm-chairs moulded by long use into the precise intaglio adapted to the +human frame; visions of a warm flood of subdued light, of things steaming +gently with curling wreaths of vapour. All these passed in order before +the mind, called up by the incantation of discomfort out of the cauldron +of misery, like unto the regal display manifested to that impulsive and +somewhat over-married individual, Macbeth. + +(M105) + +But before long it was most difficult to picture these pleasant sights so +vividly as to become altogether oblivious of an exceedingly chilly +personality, and ultimately human nature triumphed, and the _ego_ in a +rather frozen state became again paramount. I had begun to calculate the +number of hours we might have to remain where we were, and the probable +state in which we should be next morning, when of a sudden the mist +lifted, and disclosed the glacier just below feebly lit up by the rising +moon. We sprang instantly to our feet, almost as instantaneously returning +to our former positions by reason of the exceeding stiffness and cramp +begotten of the cold. The guides, leaving their discussion at a point +where the last speaker had, in imagination, shot a chamois about the size +of an elephant, descended to inspect the ice. The snow bridges were +pronounced secure, and we were soon across the crevasses, but found to our +disgust that we had rather overdone the waiting. The slope was hard +frozen, and in the dim light it was found necessary to cut steps nearly +the whole way down the glacier. For five hours and a half were we thus +engaged, and did not reach our camp till 2.30 A.M. Never did the tent look +so comfortable as on that morning. If, as was remarked of Mrs. Gamp's +apartment in Kingsgate Street, High Holborn, to the contented mind a +cottage is a palace, so to the weary frame may a tent be a luxurious +hotel. We rushed over the loose rocks by the snout of the glacier, and ran +helter-skelter for our bivouac. From the circumstance that the invariable +struggle for the best pillow was usually brief, and that one of the party +was discovered next morning wrong end foremost in his sleeping bag with +his boots still on his feet, I am disposed to think that we were not long +in dropping off to sleep; but the unstudied attitudes of the party +suggested rather four revellers returning from a Greenwich dinner in a +four-wheeled cab over a cobbled road than a company of sober mountaineers. +By seven o'clock, however, the predominant thought of breakfast so +asserted itself that we woke up and looked out. + +(M106) + +The first object that met our gaze was a large sheet of paper, affixed to +the rock just in front of the tent, and bearing the simple inscription +"Hooray!" This led us to surmise that our success was already known below; +for the author of the legend had returned to Chamouni the previous +evening, after having seen us on the summit. To each man was apportioned +the burden he should bear of the camp equipage. Such a collection of pots +and pans and other paraphernalia had we amassed gradually during our stay, +that our appearance as we crossed the glacier suggested rather that of +certain inhabitants of Lagado mentioned in Gulliver's voyage to Laputa. By +nine o'clock we had deposited our burdens at the Montanvert and, +disregarding the principles of the sages above referred to, ventured to +corrode our lungs by articulating our wants to the landlord. This worthy +received us with more than his usual affability, for the tidings of our +success had in truth already reached the inn. A bottle of conical form was +produced, the cork drawn with a monstrous explosion, and some very +indifferent fluid poured out as a token of congratulation. In spite of, +perhaps in consequence of, these early libations, we skipped down the +well-worn and somewhat unsavoury path with great nimbleness, and in an +hour or so found ourselves on the level path leading along the valley to +Chamouni by the English church. There, I am pleased to record, the first +man to congratulate us was our old friend M. Gabriel Loppe, without whose +kindly sympathy and constant encouragement I doubt if we should have ever +persevered to our successful end. It mattered little to us that but few of +the Chamouni guides gave us credit for having really ascended the peak, +for most of them maintained that we had merely reached a point on the +south-east face of the lower summit; indeed, to those not so familiar with +the details of the mountain as we were, it might well seem hard to realise +that the crag jutting out on the right, as seen from Chamouni, is really +the actual summit. + +Such is the record of the most fascinating rock climb with which I am +acquainted. From beginning to end it is interesting. There is no wearisome +tramping over loose moraine and no great extent of snow-field to traverse. +The rocks are wondrously firm and big, and peculiarly unlike those on +other mountains, even on many of the aiguilles about Chamouni. + +(M107) + +An odd code of mountaineering morality has gradually sprung into +existence, and ideas as to what is fair and sportsmanlike in mountain +climbing are somewhat peculiar. People speak somewhat vaguely of +"artificial aid," and are wont to criticise in very severe language the +employment of such assistance, at the same time finding it rather hard, if +driven into a corner, to define what they mean by the term. It would seem +that artificial aid may signify the driving of iron pegs into rocks when +nature has provided insufficient hand or foot-hold. Such a proceeding is +considered highly improper. To cut a step in ice is right, but to chisel +out a step on rock is in the highest degree unjustifiable. Again, a ladder +may be used without critical animadversion to bridge a crevasse, but its +employment over a rock cleft is tabooed. A certain amount of +mountaineering equipment is not only considered proper, but those who go +on the mountains without it are spoken of with great asperity, and called +very hard names; but the equipment must not include anything beyond +hobnails, rope, axes, and possibly a ladder for a crevasse; any other +contrivance is sniffed at contemptuously as artificial aid. Rockets and +such like are usually only mentioned in order to be condemned; while +grapnels, chains, and crampons are held to be the inventions of the fiend. +Why these unwritten laws should exist in such an imaginary code it is hard +to see. Perhaps we must not consider too curiously on the matter. For my +own part, if it could be proved that by no possible means could a given +bad passage be traversed without some such aid, nor turned by another +route, I should not hesitate to adopt any mechanical means to the desired +end. As a matter of fact, in the Alps scarcely any such places exist for +those who have taken the trouble to learn how to climb, and there are none +on the Aiguille du Dru. We used our ladder often enough in exploring the +mountain, but when we actually ascended it we employed it in one place +only, saving thereby at least an hour of invaluable time. Indeed, +subsequent explorers have found such to be the case; and Mr. W. E. +Davidson, in a recent ascent of the mountain, was able to find his way +without invoking the assistance of either ladder or fixed ropes. In a +marvellously short space of time, too, did he get up and down the peak on +which we had spent hours without number. Still, this is the fate of all +mountains. The mountaineers who make the third ascent are, usually, able +to sweep away the blushing honours that the first climbers might fondly +hope they had invested the mountain with. A word, a stroke of the pen, +will do it. The peaks do not yield gradually from their high estate, but +fall, like Lucifer, from summit to ultimate destination, and are suddenly +converted from "the most difficult mountain in the Alps" to "Oh yes; a +fine peak, but not a patch upon Mount So-and-so." It is but with the +mountains as with other matters of this life, save in this respect, that +once deposed they never can hope to reign again supreme. Statements +concerning our fellow-creatures when of a depreciatory, and still more +when of a scandal-flavoured, nature, are always believed by nine people +out of ten to be, if not absolutely true, at any rate well-founded enough +for repetition. A different estimate of the standard of veracity to be met +with in this world is assumed when the remarks are favourable. Even so may +it be, in some instances, with the mountains. The prestige that clings to +a maiden peak is like the bark on a wand: peel it off, and it cannot be +replaced; the bough withers, and is cast to one side, its character +permanently altered. + +(M108) + +We would fain have rested that evening, but the edict went forth that +festivities were to take place in honour of the ascent, and, to tell the +truth, that evening was not the least fatiguing part of the whole affair. +The opportunity was too good to be lost, especially as the customary mode +of testifying congratulations by firing off divers podgy little cannons, +had been omitted. Preparations were made for a display of fireworks on a +large scale. Some six rockets of moderately soaring ambition were placed +in order on the grass-plot in front of the hotel. A skilful pyrotechnist, +who knew the right end to which to apply the match, was placed in charge, +and fussed about a great deal. A very little table covered with a white +cloth, and on which were displayed several bottles, reminded the crowd of +loafers who assembled expectant as the darkness came on, that a carousal +was meditated. At last the word was given, and the pyrotechnist, beaming +with pride, advanced bearing a lighted taper attached to the end of a +stick of judicious length. A hush of expectancy followed, and experienced +persons retired to sheltered corners. The fireworks behaved as they +usually do. They fizzed prodigiously, and went off in the most unexpected +directions. One rocket, rather weak in the waist, described, after a +little preliminary spluttering, an exceedingly sharp, corkscrew-like +series of curves, and then turned head-over-heels with astounding rapidity +on the lawn, like a rabbit shot through the head, and there lay flat, +spluttering out its gunpowdery vitals. Another was perfectly unmoved at +the initial application of the kindling flame, but then suddenly began to +swell up in an alarming way, causing the pyrotechnist, who had no previous +experience of this phenomenon, to retreat somewhat hastily. However, one +of the rockets rose to a height of some five-and-twenty feet, much to the +operator's satisfaction, and we were all able to congratulate him warmly +on his contribution to our entertainment as we emerged from our places of +security. + +(M109) + +A series of smaller explosions, resulting from the drawing of corks, was +the next item in the programme, and appeared to give more general +satisfaction. Then the bell rang, and the master of the ceremonies +announced that the ball was about to commence. Some over-zealous person +had unfortunately sought to improve the condition of the floor for +dancing, by tracing an arabesque pattern on the boards with water, using +for the purpose a tin pot with a convenient leak at the bottom. It +followed that the exercise of waltzing in thick boots was more laborious +than graceful. Without, the villagers crowded at the windows to gaze upon +our fantastic gyrations. But little formality had been observed in +organising the ball; in fact, the ceremony of issuing cards of invitation +had been replaced by ringing a bell and displaying a placard on which it +was announced that the dance would commence at nine o'clock. However, the +enjoyment appeared to be none the less keen, for all that the dancers were +breathing fairly pure air, taking no champagne, and not fulfilling any +social duty. But for the costumes the gathering might have been mistaken +for a fashionable entertainment. All the recognised types to be met with +in a London ball-room were there. The conversation, judging from the +fragments overheard, did not appear to be below the average standard of +intellectuality. The ladies, who came from the various hotels of Chamouni, +displayed, as most English girls do--_pace_ the jealous criticism of +certain French writers, more smart than observant--their curious faculty of +improvising ball costume exactly suitable to the occasion. There was a +young man who had a pair of white gloves, and was looked upon with awe in +consequence, and who, in the intervals of the dances, slid about in an +elegant manner instead of walking. There was a middle-aged person of +energetic temperament who skipped and hopped like the little hills, and +kept everything going--including the refreshments. There was a captious and +cynical person, who frowned horribly, and sat in a corner in the verandah +with an altogether superior air, and who, in support of the character, +smoked a cigar of uncertain botanical pedigree provided by the hotel, +which disagreed with him and increased his splenetic mood. Elsewhere, at +more fashionable gatherings, he would have leaned against doorposts, +cultivated a dejected demeanour, and got very much in other people's way. +There was a pianist who was a very clever artist, and found out at once +the notes that yielded no response on the instrument, and who, like his +more fashionable analogue, regularly required stimulants after playing a +waltz. It mattered little what he played--polka, waltz, galop, or +mazurka--whatever the tune, the couples all rotated more or less slowly +about; so it was evidently an English gathering. At such impromptu dances +there is always a strong desire to show off musical talent. No sooner did +the hireling pianist desist than a little cluster gathered around the +instrument, assured him that he must be tired, and volunteered to play. +Finally he was induced to rest, and a young lady who knew "Rousseau's +Dream," or some tune very like it, triumphantly seated herself and +favoured the company with that air in waltz time, whereat the unsuccessful +candidates for the seat smiled scornfully at each other, and rolled up +their eyes, and would not dance. So they, in turn, triumphed, and the +young lady blushed, and said she had never seen such a stupid set of +people, and went away and sat by her parents, and thought the world was +indeed hollow. The hireling came back, and all went on merrily again. + +(M110) + +In the yard outside the crowd increased. In the midst of the throng could +be seen Maurer, resplendent in a shirt the front of which was like unto a +petrified bath-towel, wearing a coat many sizes too large, his face +beaming with smiles and shining from the effects of drinks offered in the +spirit of good fellowship on all sides. Close by stood Burgener, +displaying similar physiognomical phenomena, his natural free movements +hampered by the excessive tightness of some garments with which an admirer +of smaller girth had presented him. Let us do justice to the guides of +Chamouni, who might not unnaturally have found some cause for +disappointment that the peak had been captured by strangers in the land. +On this occasion, at any rate, they offered the hand of good fellowship, +and listened with admiring attention while our guides, in an unknown +tongue, expatiated on the difficulties and dangers they had successfully +overcome--difficulties which did not appear to become less by frequent +repetition. Let us leave them there. They did their work thoroughly well, +and might be pardoned, under all the circumstances, for a little swagger. + +(M111) + +The days grow shorter apace. The sun has barely time to make the ice peaks +glisten, ere the cold shadows creep over again. Snow lies thick on ledge +and cranny, and only the steepest mountain faces show dark through the +powdery veil. Bleak night winds whistle around the beetling crags and +whirl and chevy the wreathing snow-clouds, making weird music in these +desolate fastnesses, while the glaciers and snow-fields collect fresh +strength against the time when their relentless destroyer shall attack +them once again at an advantage. The scene is changed. The clear air, the +delicate purity of the Alpine tints are but recollections, and have given +way to fog, mist, slush, and smoke-laden atmosphere. Would you recall +these mountain pictures? Draw close the curtains, stir the coals into an +indignant crackling blaze, and fashion, in the rising smoke, the mountain +vista. How easy it is to unlock the storehouse of the mind where these +images are stowed away! how these scenes crowd back into the mind! What +keener charm than to pass in review the memories of these simple, +wholesome pleasures; to see again, as clear as in the reality, every +ledge, every hand and foot-hold; to feel the fingers tingle and the +muscles instinctively contract at the recollection of some tough scramble +on rock or glacier? The pleasures of the Alps endure long after the actual +experience, and are but invested; whether the interest can be derived by +any one but the actual investor is a matter for others to decide. For my +own part, I can only wish that any one could possibly derive a hundredth +part of the pleasure in reading, that I have had in writing, of our +adventures. + + + + + + CHAPTER VII. + + + BYE-DAYS IN ALPINE MIDLANDS + + + 1. _A Pardonable Digression._ + + On well-ordered intellects--The drawbacks of accurate + memory--Sub-Alpine walks: their admirers and their + recommendations--The "High Level Route"--The Ruinette--An infallible + prescription for ill-humour--A climb and a meditation on grass + slopes--The agile person's acrobatic feats--The psychological + effects of sunrise--The ascent of the Ruinette--We return to our + mutton at Arolla--A vision on the hill-side. + + 2. _A Little Maiden._ + + Saas in the olden days--A neglected valley--The mountains drained + dry--A curious omission--The Portienhorn, and its good points as a + mountain--The chef produces a masterpiece--An undesirable tenement + to be let unfurnished--An evicted family--A rapid act of + mountaineering--On the pleasures of little climbs--The various + methods of making new expeditions on one mountain--On the + mountaineer who has nothing to learn, and his consequent + ignorance. + + + + + 1. _A Pardonable Digression._ + + +There are some, and they are considered, on the whole, fortunate by less +highly gifted individuals, who possess minds as accurately divided up into +receptacles for the storage of valuable material as a honeycomb. Every +scrap of information acquired by the owner of such a well-ordered +intellect is duly sifted, purged, ticketed, and finally pigeon-holed in +its proper cell, whence it could undoubtedly be drawn out at any future +time for reference, were it not for the fact that the pigeon-holes are all +so very much alike that the geometrically minded man commonly forgets the +number of the shelf to which he has relegated his item of knowledge. He +need not really regret that this should be the case; persons with this +exceedingly well-ordered form of mind are apt to be a little too precise +for ordinary folk, and may even by the captious be rated as dull +creatures. A love for the beautiful is not usually associated with +excessively tidy habits of mind. An artist's studio in apple-pie order +would seem as unnatural as a legal document drawn up on aesthetic +principles. If the truth be told, the picturesque is always associated +with--not to mince matters--the dirty; and the city of Hygeia, however +commendably free from the latter quality, would be but a dreary and +unattractive town. Nor would it, as seems to be sometimes supposed, be +quite a paradise to that terrible and minatory person, the sanitarian. On +the contrary, he would probably be found dining with the undertaker--off +approved viands--and the pair would be bewailing the hard times. + +(M112) + +I knew a man once who was marvellously proud of a certain little cabinet, +devoted to the reception of keys, all of which were arranged in a +remarkably orderly manner. He was fond of demonstrating the system, which +seemed, in truth, highly business-like; but I lost faith one day in his +method, on finding that he did not know the locks which the several keys +were constructed respectively to open. It is with the mind's eye as with +the bodily eye. We are able only to focus sharply one thing at a time, and +the beauty of a given view, from the physiological standpoint, consists in +the softened indistinctness of all objects out of the range of absolute +focus--a fact of which the early Florentine artists evinced a curious +disregard, and which their modern imitators, who, at least in our +scientific age, ought to know something of the elementary laws of optics, +render themselves somewhat ridiculous by servilely copying. So is it also +with the memory. A certain indistinctness of detail often renders the +recollection even more pleasing; we may be able only to reproduce from the +pigeon-hole, as it were, a rather indistinct, blotted-in impression, but +as the artist would be fully justified in working up such a study into a +finished picture, so may the writer be allowed also to elaborate from his +mental sketch a complete work. Now, in wandering in those numerous +districts in the mountains of Switzerland which cannot properly be classed +as sub-Alpine, and yet are not lofty enough to warrant their explorer in +dignifying his rambles by the term "climbing," one great charm consists in +the fact that, while everything is pleasing, there is no distinct +objective point that we are bidden to admire. The critical tendency is a +very constant factor in human character, and the chief business the +professional critic has to learn consists in finding out how far he may +legitimately go, and how he may best say what he is called upon to +express. Now even the least critical of our race, the gushing section of +humanity, feel irresistibly disposed to cavil at anything they are told +they must admire. Perhaps, though, it is not the critical attributes which +come out on such occasions in them. Possibly it is but an example of that +still more uniformly found characteristic of man and woman, a quality +which, in the process of the descent of our species, has been handed down +without the least alteration from such lower animals as the mule for +instance, and for which, oddly enough, we have no proper term in our +language this side of the water, but know it as "cussedness." + +(M113) + +Most travellers hear with a slight feeling of relief, on arriving at their +destination and inquiring what there is to be seen, that there is nothing +in particular, and the sub-Alpine walker has this charm perpetually with +him. His expedition cannot fail, for it does not aim at any particular +object on the attainment of which it depends whether he considers himself +successful or not. These sub-Alpine walks and rambles form the background, +the setting, the frame, and the surrounding of the more sharply defined +and more memorable high expeditions. Perhaps these are but the sentiments +of advancing mountaineering age; certainly they may be heard most often +from those who have reached that period of life when they no longer pay +heed to wrinkles in their trousers, when they are somewhat exacting in the +matter of club dinners, and when they object strongly to receiving +assistance from younger folk in putting on their overcoats. Howbeit, as we +may recall the statement made in the "Delectus,"-- + + Neque semper arcum + Tendit Apollo, + +even so does the mountaineer occasionally relax his muscles, and find +pleasure in the Alpine midlands. Moreover, the writer feels that the +perpetual breathing of rarefied air may be apt to induce too great a +strain on his readers, and recollects that a piano always tuned to concert +pitch is not so harmonious an instrument as one occasionally unstrung; so +some relief is at times necessary. Contrast, inasmuch as nature provides +it on every hand, we may be sure is a thing for which man has an +instinctive craving; and to my mind, at least, a picture in which rich +colouring is introduced, and where the result of the blending is +harmonious, is more satisfactory than the work which appeals by what I +believe artists would call "tone." The principle applies rather widely. We +may have observed that young ladies of prepossessing appearance love to be +accompanied by dogs of repulsive mien. The costermonger, again, if +possessed, as he always is, of a hoarse voice, is not completely equipped +unless provided with a boy companion capable of sending forth in alternate +measure the shrillest cries which the human larynx is capable of emitting. +Thus may the pair better vaunt their wares, compel attention, and attract +notice. The same objects, at any rate the latter two, influence an author, +and not only in all cases, it would seem, when he is actually engaged in +writing. So our expeditions, now to be described, may be looked upon as +material for contrast, and may be skipped if thought fit--at any rate by +purchasers--without risk of wounding the writer's feelings. + +(M114) + +Some years ago we were travelling over that district of the Alps which to +the true lover of mountain scenery can never become hackneyed--that is, the +stretch of glacier land between Chamouni and Zermatt, first made known by +Messrs. Foster, Jacomb, Winkfield, and others, and known to mountaineers +as the "high-level route." We had reached Monvoisin, then, possibly still, +one of the cosiest and most comfortable little inns to be found among the +mountains. An immense variety of first-rate glacier passes of moderate +difficulty lie between this Val de Bagne and the Arolla valley; the Col de +la Serpentine, the Col Getroz, the Col de Breney, the Col Chermontane, and +others, all of high interest and varied scenery, tempt the walker +according to his powers. We selected on this occasion the Col du Mont +Rouge, having a design on the bold little peak towering just above the +Col, and known as the Ruinette. This peak, it may be at once mentioned, +was ascended for the first time in 1865 by Mr. Edward Whymper, a +mountaineer who has never ceased happily to add to his spoils and trophies +since in all parts of the globe, and who, unlike most of the clan, has +kept in the front rank from the day he first climbed an Alpine slope. + +(M115) + +We arrived soaked through, and with deplorably short tempers, at the hotel +at Monvoisin. Now tobacco has been vaunted as a palliative to persons in +this emotional state. Liquid remedies, described by the vulgar-minded as +"a drop of something short," or, more tersely, "a wet," have been +recommended as tending to induce a healthier state of mind. But there is +one specific remedy which never fails, and to this by tacit consent we at +once resorted. + +Even as one touch of nature has been stated, on reliable authority, to +make the whole world kin, so may one touch of a lucifer match, if +discreetly applied beneath well-seasoned logs, induce even in the most +irritable and wearied individual a change of feeling and a calm +contentment. As the logs crackled and spluttered, hissing like angry cats, +so did the prescription purge away, if not the evil humours, at any rate +the ill-humour engendered by sore feet and damp raiment, till it vanished +with the smoke up the chimney. As a matter of actual fact, however, it +ought to be stated that the greater part of the smoke at first made its +way into the room. Before long, assisted by a passable dinner, which acts +on such conditions of mind as do the remedies known to the learned in +medicine as "derivatives," we waxed monstrous merry. We laughed heartily +at our own jokes, and with almost equal fervour at those of other people--a +very creditable state of feeling, as any who have associated much with +facetiously disposed folk will be ready to acknowledge. As the evening +wore on, and the fire burnt lower, we became more silent and thoughtful, +watching the pale blue and green tongues of flame licking round the +charred logs. There is a pleasure, too, in this state. No one felt +disposed to break the charm of thoughtfulness in the company by throwing +on fresh fuel. The fire had done its work, had helped matters on, had left +things a little better than it found them--an epitome of a good and useful +life. The embers fell together at last, throwing up but a few short-lived +sparks; nothing remained but the recollection of what had been once so +bright, and a heap of ashes--a fit emblem; for one of the party who was the +life and soul of the expedition can never again join in body with us in +the Alps, or revisit those Alpine midlands he loved so keenly. We rose +from our seats and threw back the curtains from the window. The mists had +vanished, and with them all doubt and all uncertainty, while the stream of +light from the full moon seemed a promise of peace and rest from +elsewhere. + +(M116) + +At an early period of a walk there is always the greatest objection to +putting forth exertion, the result of which has almost immediately to be +undone. That man is indeed robust, and possessed of three times the +ordinary amount of brass, if he fails not to find it distasteful to walk +up a hill at the end of an expedition, or down one at the commencement. +The drawback to the commanding position of the hotel at Monvoisin lies in +the fact that it is absolutely necessary to descend the hill to begin +with, which always seems a sinful waste of energy, seeing that the grass +slopes opposite, which are steep, have immediately afterwards to be +climbed. The natural grass steps looked inviting, but in the language of +the Portuguese dialogue book we found them all either "too long or much +short." One ascent over a grass slope is very much like another, and +description in detail would be as wearisome as the slopes themselves often +prove. Yet it is worthy of notice that there is an art to be acquired even +in climbing grass slopes. We had more than one opportunity on the present +occasion of seeing that persons look supremely ridiculous if they stumble +about, and we noticed also that, like a bowler when he has delivered a +long hop to the off for the third time in one over, the stumbler +invariably inspects the nails in his boots, a proceeding which deceives no +one. It is quite easy to judge of a man's real mountaineering capacity by +the way in which he attacks a steep grass slope. The unskilful person, who +fancies himself perfectly at home amongst the intricacies of an ice-fall, +will often candidly admit that he never can walk with well-balanced +equilibrium on grass, a form of vegetable which, it might be thought in +many instances of self-sufficient mountaineers, would naturally suit them. +There is often real danger in such places, and not infrequently the wise +man will demand the use of the rope, especially when there are any tired +members among the party. There is no better way of learning how to +preserve a proper balance on a slope than by practising on declivities of +moderate steepness, and it is astonishing to find how often those who +think they have little to learn, or, still worse, believe that there is +nothing to learn, will find themselves in difficulties on a mountain-side, +and forced to realise that they have got themselves into a rather +humiliating position. We may have seen before now, all of us, +distinguished cragsmen to whom an ascent of the Weisshorn or Matterhorn +was but a mere stroll, utterly pounded in botanical expeditions after +Edelweiss, and compelled to regain a position of security by very +ungraceful sprawls, or, worse still, have to resort to the unpardonable +alternative of asking for assistance. It is on such places that the skill +born of constant practice is best shown in the peasant as contrasted with +the amateur; but the latter could easily acquire the art, were he not, as +a rule, too high and mighty to do so. It is a great point, too, if the +expedition is to be thoroughly enjoyed, to transport one's self over the +earlier part of the day's climb with the least possible amount of +exertion. The art possibly resembles that which, I am told, is acquired by +those of ill-regulated minds, whom the force of circumstances and the +interests of society compel to exercise themselves for a certain number of +hours daily in that form of unproductive labour exemplified in the machine +known as the treadmill. No doubt the very ardent mountaineer might find +that facilities would be accorded to him during such time as he cannot +visit the Alps of practising this art in the manner indicated. + +(M117) + +Before long, the smooth unbroken snow slope leading up to the Col du Mont +Rouge, glistening like a sheet of amber-coloured satin in the light of +early dawn, came into sight. One of the party, who had complained +throughout of the slow pace at which he had been going, and who was +already far ahead, now went through a singular performance. Conceiving +that he would stimulate us to greater exertion by displaying his own +agility, he suddenly shot forth, as an arrow from the bow, and ran at +great speed on to the snow slope. But he had misjudged the hardness of the +snow. It fell out, therefore, that after two or three curious flounders +his limbs suddenly shot out to all points of the compass. A desperate +effort to recall his members under control resulted only in his suddenly +coiling up into a little round ball, like a spider in a state of +nervousness, and in that shape descending with considerable momentum, and +not a few bumps, down the slope over some knobby stones and on to a +fortunately placed little grass ledge. When we joined him a few minutes +later, he observed unblushingly that he had found a capital place for +breakfast. So have I seen a skater, after performing a few exercises of a +somewhat violent nature, resembling the dances performed by nigger +minstrels wearing excessively long boots, suddenly sit down and instantly +adjust a perfectly correctly applied strap. On resuming our journey the +agile member was firmly secured with a rope, for fear, as we told him, +that he should become possessed with a sudden idea to hunt for a suitable +place for luncheon by resorting to his previous tactics. Somewhat +crestfallen, he took a place in the rear of the caravan, and condescended +to make use of the little notches scraped out by the leader in the hard +snow. + +(M118) + +A few minutes later the full sunlight of early morning burst upon us, and +produced, as it always does on such occasions, a feeling of supreme +contempt for those slothful individuals who had not got up as early as we +had. This moment of exhilaration is often the very best of a whole +expedition, and is apt to lead, I know not why, to an ebullition of +feeling, which usually takes the form of horse-play and practical joking. +A series of gentle slopes led us up to the Col. Our ascent took us +gradually round the base of the Ruinette, and we cast anxious glances to +our right to see if any practicable line of rocks could be made out. The +mountain is tolerably steep from this side, but the rocks are broken and +were bare of snow. On the summit of the Col the party divided, the agile +person and some of the others deciding that they would go straight on to +Arolla, while Burgener and I bespoke the services of the porter, and made +straight for the long buttress of rock running down almost directly to the +Col on the north-west face of the mountain. Half an hour's complicated +scrambling resulted in our attaining a little level plateau of rock on the +ridge. As we looked down on to the great snow-field from which the Getroz +glacier takes its origin, we perceived, far away, the forms of our +companions looking like a flight of driven grouse about a quarter of a +minute after the sportsman has missed them with both barrels. No doubt +they were enjoying themselves thoroughly, but from our point of view the +sight of some four or five individuals walking along at ten-foot intervals +with bowed heads and plodding gait did not suggest any very consummate +pleasure. Rejoicing, therefore, that they were making nice tracks for us +to follow later in the day, we turned again to the rocks above. Following +always the ridge, we clambered straight up, and found opportunities for +very pretty gymnastics (that is, from our own point of view) on this part +of the mountain. Our object was to select rocks that would give good +practice in climbing, rather than to pick out the easiest possible line, +and as a result we got into more than one difficult place, difficult +enough at any rate to demand much conversation on the part of the guides. +In about three hours from the Col we found ourselves looking over the +arete on to the southern side of the mountain with a very compact and +varied view in all directions. Close by, the long ridge of the Serpentine +formed a fine foreground, and a wide expanse of glacier district made up a +tolerably wild panorama. A few minutes' climbing along the crest landed us +above a deep notch filled in with soft snow. Into this we plunged, and in +another minute or two stood on the summit of the Ruinette. So far as we +knew at the time, the mountain had not previously been ascended from the +northern side, and, indeed, the peak does not appear to be visited nearly +so often as it deserves. Following for the most part the same line as that +taken during the ascent, we regained, in about a couple of hours, the Col. +Here we hunted diligently, seeking what we might devour, and feeling sure +that our friends would have left us something as a reward for our energy. +It transpired, however, subsequently, that the agile person's exertions +had provoked in him such an appetite that there was little if anything to +leave, so we followed the tracks laid out in the snow, noticing with some +concern that one member of the previous party had sunk at every step some +eighteen inches deeper into the soft compound than anybody else. By the +marks on the snow we perceived, also, that he had trailed his axe along by +his side, a sure sign of weariness. By sunset we had gained the Pas de +Chevres, and ran gaily down the gentle slope towards the hotel. A little +distance from the building we came so suddenly upon a manly form, +outstretched, like a stranded star-fish, on a mossy bank, that we almost +leaped upon his stomach. Yet he moved not, and was apparently wrapped in +slumber. We stopped and crept cautiously up to survey him more closely. It +was the agile person. + + + + + 2. _A Little Maiden._ + + +(M119) + +In the old days of mountaineering, Saas was a place more often talked +about than visited. The beauty of the scenery around was indeed +unquestionable, the number of expeditions of every degree of difficulty +seemed almost without limit, first-rate guides could be obtained with +ease, and yet there was never any difficulty in finding quarters in the +hotels. In ascending the main valley from Visp the great stream of +travellers divided at Stalden into a large stream that made its way to +Zermatt and a little rivulet that meandered along the much finer valley +towards Saas and the Mattmark. It thus fell out that, notwithstanding a +small body of indefatigable mountaineers had explored the higher peaks and +passes on both sides of the valley with tolerable completeness, there was +left a considerable number of smaller expeditions capable of providing +good amusement for the climber desirous of acquiring fame or of exploring +the less known districts. In these days, when the soaring ambition of +mountaineers has led them to climb heights far greater than any found in +the Alps, an account of an expedition of an unimportant peak may seem out +of place. Indeed, its details were so devoid of sensational incident that +the recital may be dull; but, as will appear directly, that is not the +writer's fault; at any rate, he ventures to give it, for the same reason +that invariably prompts youthful authors to write unnecessary books; that +is, as they say in their preface, to supply a want long felt--a want, it +may be stated, usually felt in their own pockets and nowhere else. + +With every respect to the older generation of mountaineers, they are much +to blame in one matter. The stock of Alpine jokes is scanty; indeed, a +well-read author can get them all, with a little arrangement, into the +compass of one short description of a day in the mountains. Again, the +number of Alpine subjects lending themselves to facetiousness is but +small. The supply has been proved beyond question entirely inadequate to +meet the demand, but former writers have recklessly drawn on this limited +stock and entirely exhausted the topics, if not the readers. Some +allowance may therefore be made when the position is considered, and it is +realised that the writer is endeavouring to patch together a fabric with +materials almost too threadbare for use, and that he is compelled wholly +to pass by such attractive topics as the early start and consequent +ill-temper, the dirty porter, the bergschrund, the use of tobacco, or the +flea. The last-mentioned beast is in fact now universally prohibited from +intrusion into polite Alpine literature; he has had his day. But why? he +has surely some right to the place. An eminent French composer(6) has +written a ballad in his honour; but though, as old Hans Andersen wrote, he +was much thought of at one time, and occupied a high position, seeing that +he was in the habit of mixing with the human race, and might even have +royal blood in his veins, yet he is now deposed. I cannot forbear from +paying a last tribute to the memory of a departing, though formerly +constant, companion. To find oneself obliged to cut the acquaintance of a +friend whom I have fed with my own hand must give rise to some qualms. + +Unfortunately, too, the older writings are too well known of many to be +dished up again in altered form, like a Sunday dinner in the suburbs; so +that even the most common form of originality, videlicet, forgetfulness of +the source from which you are borrowing, is forbidden. Plagiarism is a +crime that seldom is allowed to pass undetected. There are many people in +this world possessed of such a small amount of originality themselves, +that they spend their whole time in searching for the want of that quality +in others. The human inhabitants of the ark, unless they made the most of +their unexampled opportunities for the study of natural history, must have +become desperately bored with each other, and no doubt, when set free, +said all the good things, each in their own independent nucleus of +commencing society, which they had heard while immured. On the whole, it +is fortunate for writers that the period known as the dark ages came to +pass; it allowed those who commenced their career on this side of the +hiatus to make, on the old lines, a perfectly fresh start. + +(M120) + +Perhaps no country in the world has had the minute topography of its +uninhabited districts so thoroughly worked out as Switzerland. Beyond +question the orography is more accurately given than anywhere else; in +this respect, indeed, no other country can compare with it. It might seem, +even to those who have studied the matter, almost impossible to find any +corner of the Alps that has not been described; and the discovery that a +few superficial square yards of Swiss territory, arranged on an incline, +had not been discussed in detail came upon the writer with somewhat of a +shock. It was clearly somebody's duty to rectify the omission and fill the +gap; whether the expedition was of importance from any point of view, or +whether any one in the wide world had the smallest desire to read a +description of it, was a matter of no moment whatever. There was a vacuum, +and it was a thing abhorrent. The mountain, to which reference is made +above, lies east of Saas, and is known to such of the inhabitants as have +any knowledge of geography as the Portienhorn. Substantially this peak is +the highest point of a long rocky ridge running north and south, and +called the Portien Grat. + +(M121) + +One fine evening we sat outside the inn at Saas just before dinner, +seriously discussing the prospect of climbing this mountain. The guides +were of opinion that we ought to sleep out, and surmised that the rocks +might be found much more difficult than they looked. With some reluctance +on our part their views were allowed to prevail on the point, and they +started off in triumph, promising to return and report when all the +necessary preparations for starting should be completed, while we went in +to prepare ourselves for the next day by an early dinner. The inn in those +days was somewhat rude, and the cuisine was not remarkable save for the +extraordinary faculty possessed by the chef for cooking anything that +happened to come in his way, and reducing it all to the same level of +tastelessness. On the present occasion, however, stimulated, no doubt, by +certain critical rebukes, he had determined to surpass himself. Towards +the end of the repast, as we sat chewing some little wooden toothpicks, +which were found to have more flavour than anything else placed on the +table, we heard the chef cross the yard and go into a certain little +outhouse. A few minutes later a subtle and delicate aroma made its way +into the apartment, leading us, after a few interrogative sniffs, to get +up and close the window. Gradually the savour became more pronounced, and +one of the party gave expression to his opinion that there was now +satisfactory proof of the accuracy of his constant statement that the +drains were out of order. Gradually intensifying, the savour assumed the +decided character of a smell, and we looked out of window to see in which +direction the cemetery lay. Stronger and stronger grew the perception as +steps came mounting up the stairs; the door opened, and all doubt was set +at rest as the chef entered, bearing proudly a large cheese. In a moment, +to his dismay, he was left undisputed master of the apartment. + +(M122) + +We left Saas equipped as for a serious expedition. A stout rustic, who was +the most preternaturally ugly man I ever saw, led the way; he had a very +large mouth and an odd-shaped face, so that he resembled a frog with a +skewer wedged across inside his cheeks. On his back he bore a bag full of +very spiky straw, which the guides said was a mattress. In about an hour's +time we arrived at a carelessly built chalet on the Almagel Alp, of which +the outside was repulsive and the inside revolting. But the experienced +mountaineer, on such occasions, is not easily put out, and exhibits very +little astonishment at anything he may see, and none at anything that he +may smell. The hut consisted of a single apartment, furnished with a +fireplace and a bed. The fireplace was situated in the centre of the room; +the couch was separated by a dilapidated hoarding from a shed tenanted by +a cow of insatiable appetite--indeed, it may have been originally designed +as a manger. The bed, which accommodated apparently the family of the +tenant, was found on actual measurement to be forty-eight inches in length +and twenty in width; nevertheless the two guides packed themselves into +it, adopting in their recumbent position the theory that if you keep your +head and your feet warm you are all right. By the flickering gleams of +firelight it could be perceived through the smoke that these were the only +portions of their frames actually in the bed owing to its excessive +shortness; but guides share, with babies in perambulators, a happy faculty +of being able to sleep peacefully whatever be the position of their heads. +The dispossessed family of the tenant would not submit, notwithstanding +strong remarks, to summary eviction, and watched our proceedings with much +interest. It was pointed out to them that curiosity was a vicious quality, +that it had been defined as looking over other people's affairs and +overlooking one's own, and that, on the whole, they had better retire, +which they did reluctantly, to a little shed in which was a large copper +pot with other cheese-making accessories. Apparently they spent the night +in scouring the copper pot. + +The mattress proved to be so tightly packed that it was easier, on the +whole, to lie awake under it than to sleep on the top of it, and less +painful. About 4 A.M. one of the guides incautiously moved his head, and +having thus disturbed his equilibrium fell heavily on to the floor. +Thereupon he woke up and said it was time to start. We bade a cheerful +adieu to our host, who was obtaining such repose as could be got by the +process of leaning against the doorpost, and made our way upwards. + +On the south side of the Portienhorn a long and rough rocky ridge, +preserving a tolerably uniform height, extends as far as the Sonnighorn. +Ultimately the ridge, still running in a southerly direction, curves +slightly round to the west up to the Monte Moro, and thus forms the head +of the Saas valley. There are several unimportant peaks in this ridge +perhaps equally worthy, with the Portienhorn, of a place in literature; +but of all the points south of the Weissmies this Portienhorn is perhaps +the most considerable, and certainly the most difficult of access. At any +rate, we climbed the peak, and this is how we did it. + +(M123) + +It was clear that the southern ridge was more feasible than the northern +one, which drops to a col known as the Zwischbergen Pass, and then rises +again to merge into the mass of the Weissmies. The whole of the western +slope of the Portienhorn is covered by the Rothblatt Glacier, the ice of +which is plastered up against its sides. We kept to the left of the +termination of this glacier, and after a brief look round turned our steps +away from the rock buttress forming the northern boundary of the glacier, +though we were of opinion that we might by this line ascend the mountain; +but we nevertheless selected the southern ridge, on the same principle +that the sportsman, perfectly capable of flying across any obstacle, +however high, sometimes, out of consideration no doubt for his horse, +elects to follow somebody else through a gap. In good time we reached a +point about halfway up the side of the mountain, and halted at the upper +edge of a sloping patch of snow. It was fortunate that we had ample time +to spare, for considerable delay was experienced here. Burgener had become +newly possessed of a remarkable knife, which he was perpetually taking out +of his pocket and admiring fondly; in fact, it provided material for +conversation to the guides for the whole day. The knife was an intricate +article, and strikingly useless, being weak in the joints; but +nevertheless Burgener was vastly proud of the weapon, and valued it as +much as an ugly man does a compliment. In the middle of breakfast the +treasure suddenly slipped out of his hand, and started off down the slope. +With a yell of anguish he bounded off after it, and went down the rocks in +a manner and at a pace that only a guide in a state of excitement can +exhibit. The incident was trivial, but it impressed on me the +extraordinary powers of sure-footedness and quickness on rocks that a good +guide possesses. An amateur might have climbed after these men the whole +day, and have thought that he was nearly as good as they, but he could no +more have gone down a couple of hundred feet as this guide did without +committing suicide, than he could have performed a double-three backwards +the first time he put on skates. He might, indeed, have gone backwards, +but he would not have achieved his double-three. Turning northwards the +moment we were on the arete, we made our way, with a good deal of +scrambling, upwards. The rocks were firm and good, and, being dry, gave no +great difficulty. Still they were far from easy, and now and again there +were short passages sufficiently troublesome to yield the needed charm to +a mountain climb, difficult enough at any rate to make us leave our axes +behind and move one at a time. But how have the times altered since our +expedition was made! Nowadays such a climb would be more fitly mentioned +casually after dinner as "a nice little walk before church," "a capital +after-breakfast scramble," "a stroll strongly recommended to persons of an +obese habit," and so forth. Nevertheless, there is a very distinct +pleasure in climbing up a peak of this sort--greater, perhaps, than may be +found on many of the more highly rated, formidable, and, if the truth be +told, fashionable mountains; for the expedition was throughout +interesting, and the contrast between the view to the west where the +Mischabelhoerner reared up their massive forms, and to the east looking +towards Domo d'Ossola and the Italian lake district, was one to repay a +climber who has eyes as well as limbs. The crest was in places tolerably +sharp, and we were forced at times to adopt the expedient, conventionally +supposed to be the only safe one in such cases, of bestriding the rock +edge. It should be stated, however, that, as usual on such occasions, when +we desired to progress we discarded this position, and made our way +onwards in the graceful attitude observed at the seaside in those who are +hunting on the sand for marine specimens. And thus we arrived ultimately +at the top, where we gave way to a properly regulated amount of subdued +enthusiasm, proportionate to the difficulty and height of the vanquished +mountain. No trace of previous travellers could be found on the summit. It +was a maiden ascent. Doubtless the mythical and ubiquitous chamois-hunter +had been up before us, for at the time I write of the district was noted +for chamois; but even if he had, it makes no difference. We have found it +long since necessary to look upon ascents stated to have been made by +chamois-hunters as counting for nothing, and in the dearth of new peaks in +the Alps, have to resort to strange devices and strained ideas for +novelty. Thus, a mountain in the present day can be the means of bringing +glory and honour to many climbers. For instance:-- + +A climbs it First ascent. +B ascends it First recorded ascent. +C goes up it First ascent from the other side. +D combines A and C's First time that the peak has been "colled." + expedition +E scrambles up the First ascent by the E.N.E. arete. + wrong way +F climbs it in the First ascent by an Englishman, or first + ordinary way ascent without guides. +G is dragged up by his First real ascent; because all the others + guides were ignorant of the topographical details, + and G's peak is nearly three feet higher than + any other point. + +Many more might be added; probably in the future many more will, for, in +modern mountaineering phrase, the Portienhorn "goes all over." By 4 P.M. +we were back again in the Saas valley. + +It seems, as I write, only yesterday that all this happened. But a regular +revolution has really taken place. There can be no question, I think, that +fewer real mountaineers are to be found in the old "playground" than +formerly. Still, there are not wanting climbers, all of them apparently of +the first rank. For among the high Alps now, even as on the dramatic stage +of to-day, there are no amateurs. + +(M124) + +A curious human fungus that has grown up suddenly of late is the +emancipated schoolboy spoken of by a certain, principally feminine, clique +of admirers as "such a wonderful actor, you know." Very learned is he in +the technicalities of the stage. The perspiring audience in the main +drawing-room he alludes to as "those in front." He knows what "battens" +are, and "flies," and "tormentors," and "spider-traps." He endeavours to +imitate well-known actors, but does not imitate the laborious process by +which these same artists arrive at successful results. But we all know +him, and are aware also, at any rate by report, of his overweening vanity, +and the manner in which he intrudes his conception of "Hamlet" or +"Richelieu" on a longsuffering public. Without the slightest knowledge +technically of how to walk, talk, sit down, go off, or come on, he rushes +on the boards possessed solely of such qualifications for his task as may +arise in a brain fermenting with conceit. Critics he regards as persons +existing solely for the purpose of crushing him, and showing ill-tempered +hostility born of envy. The judicious, if they accept and weakly avail +themselves of orders, can but grieve and marvel that there should exist +that curious state of folly which prompts a man to exhibit it before the +world, or even to thrust it upon his fellow-creatures. Some men are born +foolish--a pity, no doubt, but the circumstances are beyond their own +control; some achieve a reputation for lack of wisdom, and even make it +pay; but some thrust their folly on others, and to such no quarter need be +given. The self-constituted exponent of a most difficult art is not a whit +more ridiculous than the boy or man who rushes at a difficult peak before +he has learnt the elements of mountaineering science. A man may become a +good amateur actor if he will consent to devote his leisure to +ascertaining what there is to learn, and trying to learn it; and a man may +become a good mountaineer by adopting the same line of action. But this is +rarely the case. Too often they forget that, as a late president of the +Alpine Club remarked, "life is a great opportunity, not to be thrown away +lightly." It is said sometimes by unreflecting persons that such +institutions as the Alpine Club are responsible for the misfortunes and +calamities that have arisen from time to time, and may still arise. But +there has been a good example set if recruits would only turn to it; for +the mountaineers in the old style, speaking of a generation that climbs +but little in these days, did what it is the fashion now to call their +"work" thoroughly--too thoroughly and completely, perhaps, to please +altogether their successors. Novelty in the mountains of Switzerland may +be exhausted, but there are still too many expeditions of which, because +they have been done once or twice, the danger is not adequately +recognised. If these remarks, written in no captious spirit, but rather +with the strongest desire to lay stress on truths that are too often +ignored, should lead any aspiring but unpractised mountaineer to pause and +reflect before he tries something beyond his strength and capabilities, +some little good will at least have been done. It is not that the rules +are unknown; they are simple, short, ready to hand, and intelligible; but +the penalty that may be exacted for breaking any of them is a terribly +heavy one--_absit omen._ + + + + + + CHAPTER VIII. + + + A SENTIMENTAL ALPINE JOURNEY + + + Long "waits" and entr'actes--The Mont Buet as an unknown + mountain--We hire carriages--A digression on a stationary vehicle--A + straggling start--The incomplete moralist--The niece to the + moralist--A discourse on gourmets--An artistic interlude--We become + thoughtful, and reach the height of sentiment and the top of the + Mont Buet--Some other members of the party--The mountaineers + perform--How glissading ambition did o'erleap itself--A vision on + the summit--The moralist leaves us for a while--Entertainment at the + Berard Chalet--View of the Aiguille Verte--The end of the journey. + + +A fair critic--in the matter of sex--discussing a recently published work +with the author, remarked that it was the most charming book she had ever +read. "I was told it would not interest me," she remarked most seriously +to him, "but really I found it delightful: there are such lovely wide +margins to the pages, you know." On much the same principle a highly +intelligent lady, noted for her theatrical discrimination, once remarked +that she liked those theatres best which afforded the longest entr'actes. +So in the Alps we felt from time to time the necessity, between the more +stirring episodes resulting from higher mountaineering, to interpose minor +expeditions, on which no less care and thought was often lavished to make +them worthy of pursuit. These were our entr'actes. Of such expeditions it +is customary to say that they are the most enjoyable of any undertaken. +Without going so far as this, it may be conceded that they have a pleasure +of their own, and it is at least no more difficult to discover a novel +form of sub-Alpine expedition than to vary the details of a big climb. One +of these episodes, undertaken while we were barred from the higher +mountains by a fall of snow, consisted in a night attack on the Mont Buet. + +(M125) + +Now the Mont Buet, although it lies close to the regular highway to +Chamouni from the Rhone valley, is a peak but rarely even seen of the +ordinary tourist; and, considering the numbers of our countrymen that +flock to the village whence they imagine that they see the summit of Mont +Blanc, the English folk who make the ascent are strangely few. Yet the +walk is not a laborious one; not more fatiguing, for example, than the +tramp from Martigny to Chamouni over the Col de Balme on a hot day. +Fashion in the mountains is very conservative, and probably it is too late +in the day now to hope that this mountain will ever gain all the +reputation it deserves, for, though comparatively unknown, its praises +have been by no means left unsung. Possibly the lowness of the guides' +tariff for the peak may have something to do with the matter, and may +serve to explain why it is so much left out in the cold; for this is a +very potent agent in determining the attractiveness of special localities. +How many go to Chamouni, and never wander along one of the most beautiful +sylvan paths in the Alps, that leads to the Glacier des Bossons through +the woods, where the view, as the spectator suddenly finds himself +confronted with the huge stream of pure glacier, topped by a most +magnificent ice-fall, and backed by the crags of the Aiguille du Midi, +compares by no means unfavourably with the more frequently photographed +panorama from the Montanvert. Ask a dozen persons at haphazard who are +staying at Chamouni where the Mont Buet is, and ten out of the number will +be unable to answer you. But the pictures hung on the line are not +invariably the best in an exhibition; and the Mont Buet is a masterpiece, +so to speak, "skied." + +(M126) + +Our party that summer at Chamouni was a large one, for we had stayed a +long time in the hotel, and knew, as the phrase goes, a great many to +speak to--quite a different thing to answering for them. We conceived the +plan of so timing our modest expedition as to arrive on the summit of the +Mont Buet about sunset. It was agreed by some members of the party that it +would be "such fun, you know," to come down in the dark. The inference to +be gathered from this is that the party was not exclusively composed of +the male sex. Two of us, reputed to be good at a bargain, were deputed to +charter carriages to convey the members of the expedition up to +Argentiere, where the ascent commenced. The carriages of Chamouni, though +no doubt practical and well suited to the mountain roads, were not found +to be of uniform excellence. Availing ourselves of a proper introduction, +we made the temporary acquaintance of an individual interested officially +in vehicular traffic, who possessed that remarkable insight into character +noticeable in all who are concerned with horses, and knew exactly what we +wanted without any preliminary explanation on our part. "Voila votre +affaire," he said, and indicated a machine that would have been out of +date when the first _char-a-banc_ was constructed. We inquired if the +somewhat unsavoury load (it had, apparently, been in recent requisition +for farming purposes) which the cart contained might be removed, and he +said there was no objection to this. "See," said the proprietor, "the +seats have backs." "But they tip up," we remonstrated. "That is nothing," +rejoined the proprietor; "they can be tied down: the carriage is good, and +has gone many miles. However, Monsieur is evidently particular; he shall +be satisfied. Behold!" and the proprietor threw open the creaking door of +a shed, and revealed to our gaze a pretentious landau with faded linings +and wheels which did not seem to be circular. This "machine," he assured +us, it would be hard to equal for locomotive purposes. Two strange beasts +were connected to it, chiefly, as it seemed, by bits of string. One of the +animals was supported on two very puffy hind legs and two very tremulous +fore-legs, and seemed perpetually on the point of going down on its knees +to supplicate that it might be allowed to go no further. Its companion was +a horse of the most gloomy nature, that no amount of chastisement could +stir from a despondent and pensive frame of mind. Both these treasures had +a capacity for detecting an upward incline that was marvellously acute. +Then there was a structure like a magnified perambulator, of which one +wheel was afflicted with a chronic propensity for squeaking, while the +other described a curious serpentine track as it rolled along. Not being, +however, in any particular hurry, we decided to avail ourselves of such +assistance as these vehicles might afford, and did, as a matter of fact, +ultimately reach our destination, if not in, at least with them. + +(M127) + +From Argentiere we followed the familiar track of the Tete Noire for some +little distance, and then bore away to the left up the valley leading +towards the Berard Chalet. The party, which had kept well together for the +first few minutes after parting with the carriages, were soon straggling +off in every direction, and the chief organiser of the expedition, +desperately anxious lest some should go astray and be no more found, ran +to and fro from one little group to another, and got into a highly +excitable frame of mind, like a busily minded little dog when first taken +out for a walk. Chief among the more erratic members was an elderly person +who had, unwisely, been asked to join the party for no very definite +reason, but because some one had said that it would be obviously +incomplete without him. The old gentleman had no previous experience of +mountain walks, but had very complete theories on the subject. He had made +great preparations for his day's climb, had carefully dieted himself the +day previously, and was not a little proud of his equipment and attire. He +was furnished with a spiked umbrella, a green tin box, and a particularly +thin pair of boots; for he wished to prove the accuracy of a theory that +man, being descended from the apes, might properly use his feet as +prehensile members, and he held that this additional aid would prove +valuable on rocks. It was currently reported, notwithstanding his +loquacity, that he was a very wise person, and indeed he dropped hints +himself, which he was much annoyed if we did not take, on the subject of a +projected literary work. We were given to understand that the publishers +were all hankering after the same, and he had a manner in conversation of +tentatively quoting passages and watching eagerly for the effects. He was +known to us as the incomplete moralist, and proved to be a very didactic +person. + +(M128) + +But this was not all; there was one other member of the party, who may be +described, as in the old-fashioned list of the "Dramatis Personae," as +"niece to the moralist." Somehow or another, she seemed to lead +everything; instinctively all gave way to her wishes, and even the chief +organiser looked to her for confirmation of his opinions before +enunciating them with decision. Bright, impulsive, wilful, she led the +moralist, subjectively speaking, whither she would, and he had no chance +at all. "She ought not to have come at all on such an expedition," he +said, looking at the light, fragile form ahead; "but you know you can't +persuade a butterfly to take systematic exercise, and everything seems to +give her so much pleasure;" and here the moralist looked rather wistful, +and somehow the artificiality seemed to fade away from him for the moment. +"Such of us," he resumed, "as stay long enough in this world cease to have +much hopefulness; and when that quality shows up too strong in the young, +such as that child yonder, somehow I don't think they often----" Here he +paused abruptly, and, selecting a meat lozenge from a store in his tin +box, put it into his mouth and apparently swallowed it at once; at any +rate, he gulped down something. It must be allowed that the moralist had +done his best to prevent his charge from accompanying the party. She had +been reminded of what learned doctors had said, that she was not to exert +herself; that certain persons, vaguely alluded to, would be very angry, +and so forth. The moralist had been talked down in two minutes. He might +as well have pointed out to the little budding leaflets the unwisdom of +mistaking warm days in March for commencing summer; and, finally, he had +surrendered at discretion, fencing himself in with some stipulations as to +warm cloaks, "this once only," and the like, which he knew would not be +attended to. So she came, and her eager brightness shed a radiance over +the most commonplace objects, and infected the most prosaic of the party, +even a young lady of varied accomplishments, who distinguished herself +later on. After all, if the flame burned a little more brightly at the +expense of a limited stock of fuel, was there anything to regret? Tone +down such brightness as hers was, and you have but an uncut diamond, or a +plant that may possibly last a little longer because its blossom, its +fruit, and with them its beauties, have been cut off to preserve the dull +stem to the utmost. Check the natural characteristics and outflow of such +natures, and you force them to the contemplation of what is painful and +gloomy. You bring them back fully to this world, and it is their greatest +privilege to be but half in it, and to have eyes blind to the seamy side. +The Alpine rose-glow owes its fascination to the fact that we know it will +soon fade. So is it with these natures. They are to be envied. We may hold +it truth with him who sings, "Better fifty years of Europe than a cycle of +Cathay." But the parallel is not strictly true: the brightness will not +fade, but will be there to the end, and the streak of sadness running +through it all gives the fascination. So the wit that approaches nearest +to pathos touches us most deeply, and is one of the rarest of intellectual +talents. With what a thrill of mixed, but yet pleasurable, sensation do we +recall the timely jest of a lost friend. But all this has nothing to do +with a holiday expedition in the Alps. Still, it must be remembered, we +were on a sentimental journey in the mountains. + +Before long the chief organiser, seizing an opportunity when most of the +stragglers were within earshot, announced at the top of his voice that +luncheon would be served on certain flat rocks. This had the immediate +effect of uniting our scattered forces. The first to arrive (the moralist +was slow of foot) were some gallant members of the high mountaineering +fraternity, who throughout the day evinced astounding activity, and an +unwonted desire to carry burdens on their backs. Secretly they were +burning with an ambition to display their prowess on some "mauvais pas," +or glissade, an ambition rewarded later on in a somewhat remarkable +manner. The rock was spread, the moralist selected a comfortable place, +and, stimulated by the appearance of the viands, favoured us with certain +extracts. + +(M129) + +"There are many," he observed, holding a large piece of pie to his mouth +and eyeing it to select an appropriate place for the next bite, "who hold +that the sense of taste is not one to which we should much minister. I do +not hold with such;" and here he found the right spot, and for a minute or +two the thread of his discourse was broken off. "The painter blends +colours to please the sense of sight; the musician studies harmonies of +sound to please the ear; each appeals to but one of our imperfect senses, +and yet we think much of them for so doing; we compliment them, and give +them the appellation of artists. Now the worthy person who dexterously +compounded this article, of which, alas! I hold now but little in my hand, +appeals not to a single but to a twofold sense; he ministers alike to +taste and to smell, and I must own, after a toilsome walk, with +commendable results. He is an artist in the highest sense of the word; his +merits, to my thinking, are but inadequately recognised in this world. I +am convinced that they will be more so in another. The gourmet's paradise +shall provide for him a cherubic state of existence; then shall he have +all the pleasure that the palate can afford without any ill-omened presage +of subsequent discomfort; for, thrice happy that he will be, digestion +will be an anatomical impossibility." It may be remarked parenthetically +that the possession of a gigantic brain had not obviated, in the case of +the moralist, the deleterious effects of sour wine. But the moralist was +not, as yet, much of a cherub. + +As the speaker showed unmistakable signs of continuing his discourse, +which had been chiefly directed at a youth of whom we only knew that he +was some one's brother, if the opportunity were afforded, a sudden and +general move was made, and the proposal that a short adjournment should +take place previous to resuming our upward journey found instant favour. +The chief organiser was by common consent left to pack up. Straightway the +ladies all produced little sketch-books, and fell very vigorously to +recording their impressions of the scenery around; whilst the moralist, +already somewhat stiff, wandered from one group to the other and favoured +them with his suggestions. The result of half an hour's work with pencil +and brush was to produce diagrams of certain objects which looked +uncommonly like telegraph poles with cross bars attached, but which were +coloured of a vivid green, and were thus obviously intended for fir trees. +The moralist, not finding that his remarks were met with much favour by +the artists, selected an ascetic who sat apart from the others, and +delivered his next discourse into his inattentive but uncomplaining ear. + +(M130) + +"It seems strange to me," he remarked, "that those who are wholly unable +to depict, even in the most elementary manner, the commonplace objects +around them, are for ever seen in the Alps striving after the most +impossible art problems. If so great a stimulus is needed, a poor result +may be confidently anticipated." (Here the moralist made a fourth attempt +to light a very curious native cigar.) "If it takes the sight of Nature in +her sublimest phase, as seen in the Alps, to stimulate our friends here to +show their art, why, then they haven't much of it. A milestone should be +sufficient for the purpose, but it seems that they require a Matterhorn; +and it may be gathered, from what I have heard you and your companions +say, that what is true of Alpine art is true also of Alpine climbing, and +that the _dilettanti_ will never take the trouble to learn how much there +is to learn. Our friends here try to paint a glacier, and have not the +most elementary idea of its anatomy. They represent vast panoramas, and +know nothing of distance; they----" But here the moralist, in the excitement +of his discourse, turned a little white, probably from the depth of his +feelings; and, throwing away his cigar, walked off alone, and was +discovered shortly after perspiring a good deal, and crumpled up in a +somewhat limp and helpless state. + +The books were packed up, for the sun was setting low, and the party +wended their way up the steep grass slope till the first great dome of the +Mont Buet came well into sight. Far ahead was the niece, seemingly +unconscious of the effects that the exertion of climbing told on her +slight frame. She was apparently unaware of any companions around, though +watchful eyes and strong hands were always near lest any mischance should +befall. She spoke to no one. Nature absorbed all her faculties as she went +on with cheeks rather flushed, and bright, dilated eyes drinking in every +object and every point of beauty. As an artist in the exercise of his +craft makes the outside world acquainted with beauties ever present to his +eyes, so did the effect on her of the wondrous lights and shades and +colours around call up new thoughts and reveal fresh marvels in the +panorama to others, though well acquainted with such Alpine scenes. The +spell caught one after another, till the whole party, all held by the same +unsuspected fascination, walked silently on, while the majestic splendour +around inspired an awe in the mind that even those most familiar with the +marvels of nature in the mountains had never felt before. The mere +recognition of the fact that the same thought or emotion is passing +simultaneously through the minds of many is in itself so striking, that +the impression so caused will not ever be effaced from the mind. A crowded +hall is waiting for the advent of the orator of the occasion, and there +enters an old man whose name and work were familiar to all. Instantly, and +as if by magic, all present rose to their feet in token of respect. No +word was spoken, no signal given. The matter may seem slight, but the +scene was one that those present will never forget. The most hideous part +of the punishment in the old days to the criminal must have been the +moment when, as he stepped through the last door, the sea of faces below +him upturned simultaneously with a howl of execration. And all these +thoughts were called up by the fact that one consumptive girl was a member +of our mountain party. Well, such was the case, and it made the expedition +different in many ways from any that we had ever undertaken, but not +perhaps the less worthy of remembrance. + +(M131) + +"It looks a long way off," observed the moralist, gazing despondently +upwards. "Do you say that the object of our expedition is to climb up to +that eminence yonder? I fear lest some of the weaker members of the party +should fail." (The moralist was now the penultimate member of the party, +the absolute rear being brought up by one of the guides, who was pushing +him up with the head of his axe. The youth to whom he was in the habit of +addressing his discourses had in a revengeful mood offered similar +assistance; but the youth wore such a saturnine look when he made the +suggestion, that it was declined hastily with thanks.) "I think that if I +took a little wine"--here he took all that was left--"this feeling of +disinclination to move might conceivably pass off, and I could then +encourage some of the others on what is clearly to them an arduous +expedition. Ah me! but these little stones are excessively sharp to the +feet; let us turn off on to the snow. I have heard that it is possible to +walk uphill on such a medium, and yet scarce recognise the fact." By this +time most of the party were well on to the first summit, and the glories +of the sunset, from a point of view which it would be hard to match in all +the mountains, were beginning to display themselves to the full. The +higher we ascended the more did the eternal mass of white snow on the +other side of the valley develop and tower above us. Two or three of the +more active members were floundering in the deep snow along the ridge +uniting the two summits, and finding it, if the truth be told, no small +matter to keep pace with the niece, who skimmed lightly over the surface. +Gallantry and the desire to keep up their reputation forbade that they +should fall to the rear, or allow the rope to tighten unduly; but their +superior mountaineering experience seemed not a little in danger of being +counterbalanced by their superior weight. All over the rocks on the Sixt +side a thin grey veil of mist seemed to hang, making the cliffs appear +still more vertical than nature had moulded them, and tinting the crags at +the same time with a deep purple colour. + + [Illustration: A VISION ON A SUMMIT] + +(M132) + +In the foreground, looking south, the long jagged line of the Aiguilles +Rouges cut off the view into the Chamouni valley, and threw up still +higher and more into relief the minor peaks of the Mont Blanc chain. We +huddled together on the summit, while there seemed hardly time to turn to +all points of the compass to survey the effects. The emotional members of +the party came out strong, and the young lady of varied accomplishments, +who was adjudged by the others to be of poetic temperament, as she was +fond of alluding rather vaguely to unknown Italian geniuses, burst forth +into ecstasies. However, one or two of us had rather lost faith in her +historical knowledge and her profound acquaintance with mediaeval art on +hearing her discourse learnedly to the vacuous youth on Savonarola as an +artist of great repute, and on discovering that in the family circle she +was held in submission by an Italianised English governess--discreetly left +at the hotel. A formidable person, this preceptress, of austere demeanour, +with a dyspeptic habit, highly pomatumed ringlets, and evangelistic +tendencies--a triple combination not infrequently met with. Still, no one +paid any attention to the accomplished young lady, for an object in the +foreground of the great picture riveted the gaze of most of us. The niece +had advanced a few steps from the rest of the party, and stood a little +apart on the summit ridge of the mountain, her slight form brought out in +strong relief against the many-tinted sky. The folds of her dress +fluttered back in the light breeze, and the night wind as it came sighing +over the crest had loosened her veil and tossed it upwards. Mechanically +as she raised her hand to draw it back, the thin arm and hand seemed to +point upwards to something beyond what we could see. Instinctively the +others all drew back a few paces, and closed in together as they watched +the motionless form. The sunset glories were more than we could realise, +but somehow we felt that she was gazing with fixed eyes far, far beyond +these--into a pure and passionless region, beyond the mental grasp of the +profoundest theologian depending on his own acquired knowledge. As we +looked, though she moved no limb, her breath came faster and faster. One +or two of us made a start forwards, but at that moment the last red glow +vanished from the belt of fleecy cloud hanging in mid-sky. Lower down, the +limestone cliffs seemed strangely desolate as the icy hand of night spread +over them. The breeze suddenly dropped and died away. She stamped her foot +on the snow, and with a quick movement of the head seemed to come back +again to the scene around. "Let us go," she said, half petulantly. +Silently the party arranged themselves in order as we wended our way back +along the ridge. We had seen a sight that lingered in the mind, and that +was not easily to be erased from the memory. As we walked along we +gradually drew closer and closer together, prompted by some feeling that +all seemed to share alike--as if the recollection of what we had just seen +had dazed the mind, and brought us face to face with some influence beyond +our ordinary thoughts, and as if with nearer union we should not feel so +powerless and insignificant. But the glories of that sunset from the Mont +Buet, a scene within the reach of all of very moderate walking ability, +were far beyond the power of any language to describe, and beyond the +province of any discreet writer to attempt. The twilight gathered in fast, +and the snow already felt more crisp under foot. The roll-call was held, +and it was discovered that the only absentees were the moralist and his +propelling companion. At this point two of the skilled mountaineers of the +party recognised their opportunity, and were not slow to seize it. +Secretly they had felt that no suitable occasion had hitherto offered of +displaying their prowess, so they volunteered to perform a glissade for +the amusement and instruction of the others. The ladies clapped their +hands gleefully, and the youth, who did not know how to glissade, looked +sinister. Accordingly the skilful ones made their way to a steep snow +slope, and started off with great speed and dexterity, amidst the admiring +plaudits of the less acrobatically minded members. But the course of their +true descent did not run entirely smooth, for before half the downward +journey was accomplished the foremost member was observed suddenly to +propel himself wildly into the air, performing a remarkable antic--similar +to those known of street Arabs as cart-wheels--and the remainder of the +journey to the foot of the slope was performed with about the grace of a +floating log descending a mountain torrent. Nor was this all; the rearmost +man, apparently also possessed by an identical frenzy, leaped forth into +the air at precisely the same spot and in precisely the same manner. Had +it not been that they were known to be highly skilful and adroit +mountaineers the impression might have gained ground that the +circumstances of this part of the descent were not wholly under their own +control. Ever anxious to investigate the true cause of strange +occurrences, to their credit be it said that when they had collected their +wits and emptied their pockets of snow, they mounted up again to the scene +of the disaster, and discovered the explanation in an entirely imaginary +stone, which had, beyond doubt, tripped them up. + +(M133) + +Somewhat crestfallen, the energetic pair rejoined the rest of the troupe +and a search was instituted for the moralist. This worthy was discovered, +astonishingly weary of body but surprisingly active of mind, wedged in a +narrow rocky niche, so that he looked like the figure of a little "Joss" +in the carved model of a Japanese temple. It was found necessary to pull +him vigorously by the legs, in order to straighten out those members +sufficiently for him to progress upon them. However, he seemed to have +more to say about the sunset than anybody else, and his description of the +beauties thereof was so glowing and eloquent, that the idea crossed our +minds that possibly some of the descriptions we had read in Alpine +writings of similar scenes might be as authentic as that with which he +favoured us. "A great point in the Alps," remarked the moralist, after he +had been securely fastened by a rope to a guide for fear we should lose +him again, so that he looked like a dancing bear--"a great point in walking +amongst the Alps is that we learn to use our eyes and look around us. I +have observed that those who perambulate our native flagstones appear +perpetually to be absorbed in the contemplation of what lies at their +feet. Now here, stimulated by the beauties around, man holds, as he should +do, his head erect, and steps out boldly." At this point a little delay +was occasioned owing to the abrupt disappearance of the speaker through a +crust of snow. Some curious rumblings below our feet seemed to imply that +he had descended to a considerable depth, and was in great personal +discomfort. In the dim light we could scarcely see what had actually +happened, but concluded to pull vigorously at the rope as the best means +of getting our temporarily absent friend out of his difficulties. This we +succeeded in doing, and a strenuous haul on the cord was rewarded by the +sudden appearance of two boots through the snow-crust at our feet--a +phenomenon so unexpected that we relaxed our efforts, with the result that +the boots immediately disappeared again. A second attempt was more +successful; an arm and a leg this time came to the surface simultaneously, +and the moralist was delivered from the snowy recesses broadside on. We +rearranged his raiment, shook the snow out of the creases of his clothes, +tied a bath towel round his head, which, for some obscure reason, he had +brought with him--the towel, not his head--and harnessed him this time +securely between two members of the party. Possibly from the effects of +his misadventure, he remained silent for some time, or his flow of +conversation may have been hindered by the fact that his supporters ran +him violently down steep places whenever he showed symptoms of commencing +a fresh dissertation. It was no easy task to find the little hut in the +darkness, and it was not until after we had blundered about a good deal +that we caught sight of the beacon light, consisting of a very cheap dip +exhibited in the window, as a sign that entertainment for man and beast +might be found within. The moralist, who was always to the fore when the +subject of refreshment was mentioned, discovered a milking-stool, and +drawing it in great triumph to the best place in front of the stove, sat +down on it, with the immediate result that he was precipitated backwards +into the ash-pan. There we left him, as being a suitable place for +repentance. + +(M134) + +The rest of the party gathered for supper round the festive board, which +was rather uncertain on its legs, and inclined to tip up. Owing to some +miscarriage, the larder of the cabane was not well stocked, and all the +entertainment that could be furnished consisted of one bent-up little +sausage, exceeding black and dry, and a very large teapot. However, there +was plenty of fresh milk provided after a short interval, though the +latter article was not obtained without considerable difficulty, and +remonstrances proceeding from an adjoining shed, probably due to +somnolence on the part of the animal from which the supply was drawn. +Presently a great commotion, as of numerous bodies rolling down a steep +ladder, was heard, and there appeared at the door a large collection of +small shock-headed children, who gaped at us in silent wonder. Anxious to +ascertain the physical effects that might be induced by the consumption of +the sausage, the moralist, who amongst his many talents had apparently a +turn for experimental physiology, cut off a block and placed it in the +open mouth of the eldest of the children. This unexpected favour led to +the boy's swallowing the morsel whole, and he shortly afterwards retired +with a somewhat pained expression of countenance; the other members of the +family followed shortly after in tears, in consequence of the Italianised +young lady, who possessed a strong fund of human sympathy and a love for +the picturesque, having made an attempt to conciliate their good-will by +patting their respective heads, and asking them their names in a +conjectural _patois_. We were now ready to start again, and demanded of +our hostess what there was to pay. This request led her to go to the foot +of the ladder, which represented a staircase, and call out for the +proprietor. A little black-headed man in response instantly precipitated +himself down the steps, shot into the apartment, and, without any +preliminary calculation, named the exact price. On receiving his money he +scuttled away again like a frightened rabbit, brought the change, jerked +it down on the table, and darted off again to his slumbers. The whole +transaction occupied some five-and-twenty seconds. + +Part of the programme consisted in descending back to Argentiere by +lantern-light, but the resources of the establishment could only produce +one battered machine, and it was no easy task with this illumination to +keep the members of the party from straying away from the narrow path. +Indeed, several members did part from the rest, curiously enough in pairs; +but before long we left the narrow defile, and as we passed from under the +shelter of the slope on our right, and could see across the Chamouni +valley, we came suddenly in view of the great mass of the Aiguille Verte, +so suddenly, indeed, that it made us start back for the moment; for, +illumined by a grey ghostly light, the mountain seemed at first to hang +right over us. There is, perhaps, no finer view of the Aiguille Verte to +be obtained than from this point; certainly no finer effects of light and +shade than were granted by the conditions under which we saw it, could +have been devised to show the peak off to the best advantage. So long did +we delay to dwell on the fairy-like scene, that the vacuous youth, +accompanied by the young lady of varied accomplishments, caught us up and +joined us quite suddenly, to their exceeding confusion. The youth, without +being invited to do so, explained, blushing violently the while, that they +had lost the path in the darkness, and had only been able to regain the +track by lighting a series of lucifer matches--an entire fiction on his +part, but condoned, as evincing more readiness of wit than we had +previously given him credit for. We heard also that their way had been +barred by a swamp and a mountain stream, which, like gossip, can have had +no particular origin. The young lady, mindful of the absence of her +preceptress and consequently heedless of grammar, described the situation +neatly as being "awfully bogs." + +(M135) + +If the expedition had shown us no more than this moonlight effect, the +reward would have been ample. In truth, from first to last the expedition +was one which it would be hard to match for variety of interest in all the +sub-Alpine district. At Argentiere we rejoined the carriages, and found +the horses just a little more inclined for exertion than they had been in +the morning; their joy at going home seemed to be tempered by the fact +that they recognised that they would inevitably be called upon to start +from the same point at no very distant period; and that to return home was +but to go back to the starting-point for further laborious excursions. But +their equine tempers seemed thoroughly soured. The Italianised young lady +was taken in charge by her elder sister, who had completed her education, +and knew consequently the hollowness of the world and the folly of younger +sisters' flirtations, and securely lodged in the landau. The youth, after +an ineffectual attempt to find a place in the same carriage, climbed to +the box seat of the other vehicle, and relieved his feelings by cracking +the driver's whip with great dexterity; in fact, we discovered that this +was one of his principal accomplishments. Not the least satisfactory part +of the climb, in the estimation of some members of the party, was the fact +that the moralist had lost his note-book during his imprisonment in the +crevasse. + + + + + + CHAPTER IX. + + + A FRAGMENT + + + An unauthentic MS.--Solitude on the mountain: its advantages to the + historian of the Alps--A rope walk--The crossing of the Schrund--A + novel form of avalanche and an airy situation--A towering + obstacle--The issue of the expedition in the balance--A very narrow + escape--The final rush--Victory!--The perils of the descent--I plunge + _in medias res_--A flying descent. + + +The following account is somewhat of a puzzle. It appears to contain +certain facts of so startling a nature, that the ascent to which they +refer must unquestionably have been of a very exciting character. The +details are not so wholly unlike descriptions which have passed the +searching discrimination of editors, in publications relating more or less +to Alpine matters, as to warrant the assumption that they are +fabrications. They do not appear, as far as the writer can ascertain, to +have been seen in print hitherto; but as all Alpine writings relate but +rigid matters of fact and actual occurrences, there seems no objection to +publishing the manuscript, notwithstanding that its authorship is only +conjectural. It is unfortunate that its fragmentary nature leaves one +somewhat in doubt as to the actual peak to which the description refers. +It has been suggested by a plausible commentator, judging from internal +evidence and the style of writing, that the manuscript of which the +fragment consists formed part of an account originally intended for some +work not published in this country, or even, possibly, was primarily +designed to fill the columns of one of our own daily newspapers during the +silly season. + +(M136) + +"... The day was cloudless, serene, and bright. Only in the immediate +foreground did the heavy banks, betokening a _tourmente_, sweep around +with relentless fury. Far above, the towering crags of the majestic peak +pierced the sky. How to get there! And alone! The situation was sublime; +yet more, it was fascinating; once again, it was enthralling. Far below +lay the prostrate bodies of my companions, worn out, wearied, gorged with +_petit vin_ and sardines. A thought flashed across my mind. Why should I +not scale alone these heights which had hitherto defied the most +consummate _intrepides_? In a moment the resolution was taken. For me, for +me alone, should the laurel wreaths be twined. For me should the booming +cannon, charged with fifty centimes' worth of uncertain powder, betoken +victory. For me alone should the assortment of cheap flags which had done +duty on many previous occasions of rejoicing, be dragged forth. What was +the expense to a hero when the glow of so magnificent an achievement +should swell his heart and loosen his purse-strings? The account might +reach a sum of two and a half, nay, even five francs; but what of that? I +girded myself with the trusty rope, and, attaching one end lightly to a +projecting crag twenty feet above, hauled myself in a moment on to the +eminence. Involuntarily I shot a glance downwards. The scene was +fearful--one to make the most resolute quail. But there was no time for +thought, still less for accurate description. A fearfully steep couloir, +flanked by two yawning bergschrunds, stretched away horizontally right and +left. How to cross them! It was the work of a moment. Unfastening the knot +in the rope above me, I threw myself, heart and soul, into the work. Where +heart and soul are, there must, in the ante-mortem state, be the body +also. This is logic. Thus I entered the chasm. Battling desperately with +the huge icicles that threatened me at every step, I forced my way through +the snow bridge and breathed again. The first schrund was accomplished. +Next the rope was fastened to my trusty axe, and with an herculean effort +I threw it far above me; fortunately it caught in a notch, and in a few +seconds I had climbed, with the agility of a monkey, up the tightened +cord. Goodness gracious! (_sapristi!_) what do I hear? A sudden roar below +betokened an immediate danger. Horror! sweeping and roaring up the slope +from the glacier beneath, I beheld a huge avalanche. I will conceal +nothing. I own that the appalling situation and its terribly dramatic +nature forced me to ejaculate a cry. I do not claim originality for it. I +said, 'Oh! my mother!' (_Oh! ma mere!_) This relieved me. Now was the time +indeed for coolness. Fortunate, most fortunate, that I was alone. +Thrusting the spike of the axe into the solid rock face like the spear of +Ithuriel, in the twinkling of an eye I had fastened one end of the rope to +the projecting head of the axe, and the other to my waist, and launched +myself over the ridge into space. Fortunate, most fortunate again, as in +the hurry of the moment I had attached the rope below my own centre of +gravity, that I was light-headed. Had this not been the case, assuredly I +should have dangled feet uppermost over the abyss. Not a moment too soon. +The avalanche dashed up the slope, grinding the axe to powder, but by good +luck entangling the rope between the massive blocks and carrying it up, +with myself attached, nearly 100 metres--I should say 300 feet--above where +I had previously stood. I had accomplished in a moment what might have +cost hours of toil. Again it was sublime. The thought crossed my mind that +the sublime often approaches the ridiculous. But the rocks, previously +broken up, had been ground by the sweeping avalanche into a surface smooth +as polished steel. How to descend these again! Banish the thought! The +mountain was not yet climbed. Upwards, past yawning seracs, towering +bergschrunds, slippery crevasses, gaping aretes, I made my way. For a few +hundred feet I bounded upwards with great rapidity. Despite the rugged +nature of the rocks everything went smoothly. Of a sudden a terrible +obstacle was presented to my gaze. I felt that all my hopes seemingly were +dashed. A stupendous cleft, riving the mountain's side to an unfathomable +depth, barred further progress. From top to bottom both sides of the chasm +overhung; and far below, where they joined, the angle of meeting was so +sharp that I felt that I must infallibly be wedged in without hope of +extrication if I fell. For a few moments I hesitated, but only for a few. +Close by was a tower of rock, smooth and vertical, some twelve feet +high--the height of two men, in fact. No handhold save on the top. This was +but a simple matter. Had any one else been with me, I should have stood on +his shoulders; as it was I stood on my own head. Thus I climbed to the +summit of the pointed obelisk of rock. Exactly opposite, on the farther +side of the cleft, was a similar rock cone, but the distance was too great +to spring across. I was in a dilemma--on one horn of it, in fact; how to +get to the other! I adopted an ingenious plan. Taking my trusty axe, I +placed the pointed end in a little notch in the rock, and then, with +herculean strength, bent the staff and wedged the head also into a notch. +The trusty axe was now bent like a bow. Again I hesitated before trusting +myself to the bow; in fact, it was long before I drew it. But a former +experience stood me in good stead. Once before, driven by a less powerful +impetus--merely that of a human leg--I had flown through a greater distance. +I made up my mind, and, summoning all my fortitude, placed my back against +the arc and, lightly touching one end, released the spring. Instantly I +felt myself propelled straight into mid-air, and before I had time to +realise the success of my scheme, was flung against the pinnacle on the +opposite side and embraced it. What were my feelings on finding that this +huge pinnacle had no more stability than a ninepin, and as my weight came +on to it slowly heeled over! Nor was this all. Slowly, like the pendulum +of a metronome, it rolled back again, and I found to my horror that I was +clinging to the apex of the rock, and dangling right over the chasm! I +cannot recall that in all my adventures I had ever been in a precisely +similar situation. However, a hasty calculation satisfied me that the +rocking crag must again right itself. As I expected, it did so, and as the +pinnacle of rock swung back once more to the perpendicular I sprang from +it with all my force. The impetus landed me safe, but the crag toppled +over into the abyss. Here I noted an interesting scientific fact. Taking +out my watch, I was able to estimate, by the depth of the cleft, the +height I had already climbed. _The boulder took a minute and a half in +falling before it reached anywhere._ I own that the escape was a narrow +one, and even my unblushing cheek paled a little at the thought of it. But +I could not be far now, I hoped, from the summit; and, indeed, the +condition of a dead bird which it so happened lay on the rocks--in a +passive sense--convinced me that the summit of the lofty peak was close at +hand. But few obstacles now remained. Another step or two revealed a +glassy unbroken rock cone leading to the summit. It seemed impossible at +first to surmount it, but my resources were not yet at an end. Dragging +off my boots, I tore out with my teeth the long nails and drove them in +one after another. By this means I ascended the first half of the final +peak; but then the supply of nails was exhausted, and I felt that time +would not permit me to draw out the lower nails and place them in +succession above the others. Luckily I still carried with me a flask of +the execrable _petit vin_ supplied by Mons. ---- of the inn below. I applied +a little to the rock. The effect was magical. In a moment the hard face +was softened to the consistence of cheese, and with my trusty axe I had no +difficulty in scraping out small steps. The worst was now over. Just as +the shades of night were gathering softly around, I stepped with the proud +consciousness of victory on to the very highest point. This indeed was +sublime. The toil of years was accomplished; it seemed almost a dream. +Nerved to frenzy, with a mighty sweep of the axe I struck off a huge block +from the summit to carry away as a token of conquest, and planting the +weapon in the hole, tore off garment after garment to make a suitable +flag; only did I desist on reflecting that it would become barely possible +for me to descend if I acted thus. Intoxicated with victory, I shouted and +sang for a while, and then turned to the descent. The night was fast +closing in, but this mattered not, for I made light of all the obstacles, +and they were so numerous that I succeeded perfectly by this means in +seeing my way. Faster and faster I sped along, descending with ease over +the blocks and fragments of the morning's avalanche. Now and again the +descent was assisted by fastening the rope securely to projecting crags, +and then allowing myself to slide down to its full length. Then I went up +again, untied the rope, fastened it anew below, and repeated the manoeuvre. +Thus at midnight I reached the edge of the cliff, at the foot of which my +companions had been left in the morning. I feared they might be anxious +for my safety, the more especially that I had not yet paid them for their +services. Peering over the edge of the vertical precipice into the murky +darkness, I called out. There was no response. Then I said 'Pst,' and +tapped the glassy slope with my pocket knife. Even this plan failed to +attract their attention. I shouted with still more force. Finally, +standing up on the edge of the cliff, I sent forth a shout so terribly +loud that it must have waked even a sleeping adder. A fatal error! for the +reverberation of my voice was echoed back with such fearful force from a +neighbouring crag that the shock struck me backwards, and in a moment I +was flying through mid-air--to annihilation." + + * * * * * * + +"There is a blank in this narrative which I can never fill up. This only +do I know; that when I came again to my senses, I was warmly ensconced in +a blanket, whilst my companions stood around in a circle shivering, as +they gazed at me with amazement. Their account, which I can scarcely +credit, was that as they were engaged in stretching out and shaking a +blanket preparatory to spreading their bed for the night, an apparently +heaven-sent form had descended from above into the very middle of it; the +shock tore the blanket from their grasp, and in a twinkling I lay wrapt up +safe and comfortable at their feet." + +(M137) + +Such is the fragment. It has been thought better to present it as far as +possible in its original form, and without any editing. That the account +is a little highly coloured perhaps in parts may be allowed, but some +licence may legitimately be accorded to an author who is no empty dreamer, +but has evidently experienced some rather exciting episodes. + + + + + + CHAPTER X. + + + THE FUTURE OF MOUNTAINEERING + + + Mountaineers and their critics--The early days of the Alpine + Club--The founders of mountaineering--The growth of the + amusement--Novelty and exploration--The formation of + centres--Narrowing of the field of mountaineering--The upward limit + of mountaineering--De Saussure's experience--Modern development of + climbing--Mr. Whymper's experience--Mr. Graham's experience--The + ascent of great heights--Mr. Grove's views--Messrs. Coxwell and + Glaisher's balloon experiences--Reasons for dissenting from Mr. + Glaisher's views--The possibility of ascending Mount + Everest--Physiological aspect of the question--Acclimatisation to + great heights--The direction in which mountaineering should be + developed--The results that may be obtained--Chamouni a century + hence--A Rip van Winkle in the Pennine Alps--The dangers of + mountaineering--Conclusion. + + +(M138) + +From time to time, when some accident has happened in the Alps, the press +and the public have been pleased to take such unfortunate occurrence as a +text, and to preach serious sermons to mountaineers. We have been called +hard names in our time; we have been accused of fostering an amusement of +no earthly-practical good, and one which has led to "miserable" waste of +valuable life. Gentle expressions of animadversion, such as "criminal +folly," "reckless venture, which has no better purpose than the +gratification of a caprice or the indulgence of a small ambition," "a +subject of humiliating interest," and the like, have at times been freely +used. But it is well known to authors and to dramatists that criticisms of +a nature known as "smashing" are not, on the whole, always to be deplored, +and are occasionally the best to enhance the success of the work. The +novel or play, however unreservedly condemned by the reviewer, has got +some chance of living if it be hinted that some of the situations in it +are a little _risquees_; and to a great many the idea seems constantly +present that mountaineering owes its principal attraction to the element +of risk inseparable from its pursuit. As an absolute matter of fact such +is not the case. Apart from this, however, mountaineers may be thankful +that the critics in question have, when they noticed our doings at all, +condemned us very heartily indeed, and thundered forth their own +strictures on our folly in sonorous terms; in fact, attacks of this nature +have by no means impaired the vitality of such associations as Alpine +clubs, but rather, like attacks of distemper in dogs, have increased their +value. + +It would be easy enough, from the mountaineer's point of view, and in a +work which, at the best, can interest only those who have some sympathy +with climbing as a pure pastime, to pass over these hard words, and to +reckon them as merely the vapourings of envious mortals not initiated into +the mysteries of the mountaineering craft; but such criticisms may lead or +perhaps reflect public opinion, and are not, therefore, to be treated +lightly. It might be held that for any notice to be taken at all is +complimentary, and we might seek shelter in the epigrammatic saying that +he who has no enemies has no character; that though hope may spring +eternal in the human breast, jealousy is a trait still more constantly +found. But this line of argument is not one to be adopted. The _tu quoque_ +style of defence is not one well calculated to gain a verdict. No doubt +the question has been treated often enough before, and in discussing it +the writer may seem but to be doing what nowadays the climber is forced to +do in the Alps--namely, wander again, perhaps ramble, over ground that has +been well trodden many times before. But the conditions have changed +greatly since mountaineering first became a popular pastime, and since the +first editions of "Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers" were rapidly sold out. It +is, the writer fears, only too true in these latter days that mountaineers +may be classified as Past and Present. Whether a third class may be added +of "the Future" is a question--to be answered, I hope, in the affirmative. + +(M139) + +The Alpine Club was founded in 1857 by a few ardent devotees to what was +then an entirely new form of pastime. The original members of that club +could never have even dreamed of the wide popularity mountaineering was +destined to acquire, or the influence that the establishment of the Alpine +Club was to have on it; and, like the fish in an aquarium, they can hardly +have known what they were in for. In the present day there are Alpine +clubs in almost every country in Europe, and in some countries there are +several, numbering their members in some cases by thousands. Nor is it +only on the continent of Europe that there are mountaineering clubs. Not +that the writer ventures to assert that every member of this multitude is +devoted to the high Alps, or that it is in the least degree essential to +climb high and difficult mountains in order to learn the fascination of +their natural beauties. It may be pointed out, however, that the +"miserable waste of valuable life" is in the greatest part not on the +great peaks and passes, but on little hills. Every year we read of +accidents on mountains such as the Faulhorn, the Monte Salvatore in the +Alps, or Snowdon, Helvellyn and the like in our own country. Possibly +these disasters might never have taken place had the experience of +mountaineering craft gained in high regions been properly appreciated and +utilised. The good surgeon is he who, utilising all his own and all his +predecessors' experience, recognises, and makes provision against, all the +risks that may conceivably be involved in the most trifling operation he +may be called upon to perform; and holiday ramblers in our own land and in +sub-Alpine regions might, not without advantage, profit by the example. + +(M140) + +Five-and-twenty years ago in Switzerland there were numberless heights +untrodden, passes uncrossed, and regions unexplored. Then, moreover, there +were comparatively but few to cross the passes or climb the mountains; but +those few did mighty deeds. Peak after peak fell before them, while slowly +but surely they opened up new regions and brought unexpected beauties to +light. In those days climbing as an art was but in its infancy, restricted +to a few amateurs specially qualified to pursue it, and to a very limited +number of guides--merely those, in fact (not such a numerous class as +people seem generally to imagine), who had made chamois-hunting one of the +principal objects of their lives. Gradually the art became more developed, +and with the increase of power thus acquired came increase of confidence. +From the fact that the training in the mountaineering art was gradual, it +was necessarily thorough--a fact that a good many climbers would do well to +bear in mind in these latter days. Then, of course, the charm of novelty, +so dear to the mountaineer, was seldom absent; he could strike out right +or left and find virgin soil; but in quest of novelty search had to be +made before long in remote regions. It followed that exploration was not +limited, and the early pioneers of mountaineering could, and did learn +more of the geography and varied beauties of the Alps in a single season +than their followers do, in the present day, in five or six. + +After a while the fashion of mountaineering altered sensibly, and a strong +conservatism sprang up. Certain districts became more and more frequented; +certain peaks acquired special popularity, either because they were +conveniently placed and ready of access; or because there was a certain +touch of romance about them, as in the case of the Matterhorn; or because +they had acquired the reputation of being difficult, and it was thought +that a successful ascent would stamp the climber at once as a skilful +person and a very daring creature. Thus places like Zermatt, Grindelwald, +Chamouni, and the AEggischhorn became the great centres of mountaineering, +and have remained so ever since. Independent exploration gradually gave +way to the charm of meeting others bent on the same pursuit of climbing; +but this feeling was not without its drawbacks, and tended to check what +has been called cosmopolitanism in mountaineering. How few, even among +those who visit the Alps regularly, know anything whatever of such large, +important, and interesting districts as the Silvretta group, the Rheinwald +group, or the Lepontine Alps! while districts like Zermatt are thronged +and crowded, and the mountains absolutely done to death. Not that it is +hard to understand how this narrowing of the field of mountaineering has +been brought about. There comes a time of life to most men when they find +more pleasure in meeting old friends than in making new acquaintances; and +the same feeling would appear to extend to the mountains. + +It must be confessed here that the writer is disposed to look upon +mountaineering in the Alps, in the sense in which it has hitherto been +known, as a pastime that will before long become extinct. In some soils +trees grow with extraordinary rapidity and vigour, but do not strike their +roots very deep, and so are prone to early decay. Still, it does not +follow that, even should these pessimist forebodings prove true, and +climbing be relegated to the limbo of archaic pursuits, the Alps will not +attract their thousands as they have done for many years. The dearth of +novelty is sometimes held to be the principal cause that will eventually +lead to the decay of mountaineering. There is a reasonable probability, +however, to judge from the Registrar-General's reports, that the world +will still be peopled some time hence, and possibly a generation will then +arise of mountaineering revivalists who, never having tasted the flavour +of novelty in Alpine climbing, will not perceive that its absence is any +loss. Yet in the Alps alone many seem to forget that, while they are +exhausting in every detail a few spots, there are numerous and varied +expeditions of similar nature still to be accomplished, the scenes of +which lie within a few hours of London. It is of course only to +mountaineering as a semi-fashionable craze that these remarks apply. The +knowledge of the art, acquired primarily in the Alps, which has led to the +development of mountaineering as a science will not be wasted, and the +training acquired in holiday expeditions, when amusement or the regaining +of health was the principal object, can be turned to valuable practical +account elsewhere. So shall there be a future for mountaineering. No doubt +but few may be able to find the opportunity, unless indeed they make it +somewhat of a profession, of exploring the great mountainous districts +still almost untouched--such, for instance, as the Himalayas. But it is in +some such direction as this that the force of the stream, somewhat tending +to dry up in its original channel, will, it may be hoped, spread in the +future. + +(M141) + +It has already been shown, by the results of many modern expeditions, that +the old views that obtained with respect to the upward limit of +mountaineering must, to say the least, be considerably modified. From +early times the question of the effects of rarefied air in high regions on +mountaineers has attracted attention. As a matter of fact the subject is +still barely in its infancy. A few remarks on this point may not perhaps +be thought too technical, for they bear, I hope, on the mountaineering of +the future. + +It is matter of notoriety that in these days travellers seem less subject +to discomfort in the high Alps than in former times. De Saussure, for +instance, in the account of his famous ascent of Mont Blanc in 1787, +speaks a good deal of the difficulty of respiration. At his bivouac on the +Plateau, at an elevation of 13,300 feet, the effects of the rarefied air +were much commented on; and these remarks are the more valuable, inasmuch +as De Saussure was a man of science and a most acute observer; while his +account, a thing too rare in these days, is characterised by extreme +modesty of description. The frequency of the respirations, he observed, +which ensued on any exertion caused great fatigue. Nowadays, however, +pedestrians, often untrained, may be seen daily ascending at a very much +faster pace than De Saussure seems to have gone, and yet the effects are +scarcely felt. No one now expects much to suffer from this cause, and no +one does. In recent times we hear accounts of ascents of mountains like +Elbruz, 18,526 feet, by Mr. Grove and others; of Cotopaxi, 19,735 feet, +and Chimborazo, 20,517(7) feet, by Mr. Whymper; and the most recent, and +by far the most remarkable, of Kabru in the Himalayas, about 24,000 feet, +by Mr. Graham. In all these expeditions the travellers spent nights in +bivouacs far above the level of the Grand Plateau where De Saussure +encamped. We cannot suppose that in the Caucasus, the Andes, or the +Himalayas the air differs much from that of the Alps with regard to its +rarefaction effects on travellers. In fact, the Alpine traveller would in +this respect probably be much better off, for the general conditions +surrounding him would be more like those to which he was accustomed. He +would not have, for instance, to contend with the effects of changed or +meagre diet or unaccustomed climate. + +(M142) + +Mr. F. C. Grove, a very high authority on such a point, in his description +of the ascent of Elbruz, in the course of some remarks on the rarity of +the air, states his belief that at some height or another, less than that +of the loftiest mountain, there must be a limit at which no amount of +training and good condition will enable a man to live; and he says, "It +may be taken for granted that no human being could walk to the top of +Mount Everest."(8) This was written in 1875; but a great deal has happened +since then, though the same opinion is still very generally entertained. +But with this opinion I cannot coincide at all, for reasons that appear to +me logically conclusive. In the first place, a party of three, composed of +Mr. Graham, Herr Emil Boss, and the Swiss guide Kauffman, have ascended +more than 5,000 feet higher than the top of Elbruz, and none of the party +experienced any serious effect, or, indeed, apparently any effect at all +other than those naturally incidental to severe exertion. It must be +admitted that one result of their expedition was to prove, tolerably +conclusively, that Mount Everest is not the highest mountain in the world. +Still, until it is officially deposed, it may be taken, for argument's +sake, as the ultimate point. Now, it would seem to be beyond doubt that a +man, being transported to a height much greater than Mount Everest, can +still live. In Messrs. Coxwell and Glaisher's famous balloon ascent from +Wolverhampton on September 5, 1862, described in "Travels in the Air," it +was computed that the travellers reached a height of nearly 37,000 +feet,(9) and this in less than an hour from the time of leaving the earth. +Deduct 5,000 feet from this computation, to allow for possible error, and +we still have a height left of 32,000 feet, an elevation, that is, very +considerably greater than the summit of Mount Everest--possibly a greater +elevation than the summit of any mountain. Life then, it is proved, can be +sustained at such a height, and the point that remains for consideration +is whether the necessary exertion of walking or climbing to the same +height would render the actual ascent impossible. + +(M143) + +Since the days of De Saussure some 8,000 feet have been added to the +height to which the possibility of ascending has been proved. It seems to +me unreasonable to assume that another 5,000 feet may not yet be added, +and arbitrary to conclude that at some point higher than Kabru but lower +than Mount Everest the limit of human endurance must necessarily be +reached. Mr. Glaisher himself does not appear to think that, from his +experience, any such ascent as that we have been considering would be +possible for an Alpine traveller (_op. cit._ p. 21 and elsewhere). But, +with every deference to so great an authority, a few considerations may be +submitted which tend most seriously to invalidate his conclusions and +opinions, and which may serve to show also that the effects of rarefied +air probably differ more widely in the two cases of the aeronaut and the +mountaineer than is generally supposed. Writing in 1871, Mr. Glaisher +says,(10) "At a height of three miles I never experienced any annoyance or +discomfort; yet there is no ascent I think of Mont Blanc in which great +inconvenience and severe _pain_ have not been felt at a height of 13,000 +feet; but then, as before remarked, this is an elevation attained only +after two days of excessive toil." Mr. Glaisher is here referring chiefly +to Dr. Hamel's ascent of Mont Blanc, and would seem apparently to be +unaware that, long before he wrote, the ascent of Mont Blanc, from +Chamouni and back to the same place, had been accomplished within +twenty-four hours. In 1873, if my memory serves me right, Mr. Passingham +started from Chamouni, ascended the mountain, and returned to his hotel in +a little less than twenty hours.(11) Compare such an ascent as this--not by +any means an isolated instance--with De Saussure's experience, and when we +consider how remarkable has been the development of mountaineering in this +direction, we may surely hold that to fix at present any absolute limit is +unduly arbitrary. Further, the ascents of Chimborazo and the other +mountains named above have all been accomplished since Mr. Glaisher wrote. +Mr. Glaisher states that the aeronaut may acclimatise himself to great +heights by repeated ascents; but how much more may the mountaineer then +hope to do so! The aeronaut necessarily makes ascents rapidly(12) and at +rare intervals. The mountaineer can acclimatise himself to high regions by +a constant and gradual process, a method obviously better calculated to +extend the limits of his endurance. + +Of course I am only discussing the actual possibility, not entering into +the question for a moment of whether it is worth while to do it. It may be +that to attempt an ascent of Mount Everest would prove almost as rash an +undertaking as an endeavour to swim through the Niagara rapids--that is, if +the mountaineering difficulties are so great as to make the two instances +parallel. Two points have to be considered: one, that, granted the +desirability of making such an ascent, we do not yet fully know the best +manner of undertaking it; and another, that we are still very ignorant as +to the physiological effects of rarefied air on the human frame.(13) + +(M144) + +With regard to the first point, we know indeed this much--that, granted +good condition, a man can "acclimatise" himself to great heights, and when +so acclimatised he can undergo much more exertion in very high regions +with much less effect. The experience of Mr. Whymper in the Andes, and of +Mr. Graham and others in the Himalayas, has shown this conclusively +enough. Let a man sleep at a height, say, of 18,000 feet, and then ascend +from that point another 3,000 or 4,000 feet; he may possibly feel the +effects to be so great that an attempt to sleep again at the latter height +would render him incapable of exertion the next day, as far as an ascent +is concerned. Let him descend till he can bivouac, say at 20,000 feet, and +then again try, starting afresh. After a while he would be able to +accomplish still more than at his first attempt; and so on, until he +reached the summit. But even supposing that no amount of acclimatisation +enables him to accomplish his end, he has other weapons in his armoury. + +(M145) + +The second point mentioned above is that the physiological effects of +rarefied air on the human economy are but little known; were these +understood the resources of science might be called in to obviate them. It +may be said that no amount of science will obviate the very simple fact +that exertion causes fatigue, but the answer is that we have no real idea +of all the causes which lead to this fatigue. This is not the place to +speculate on a somewhat abstruse and unquestionably complicated +physiological problem, but the direction in which the question may be +approached from the scientific side is worthy of being pointed out. This +much may be said, however, that when we talk of strong heart and strong +lungs in connection with the question of the possibility of ascending on +foot to the greatest altitudes, we are only, from the physiological point +of view, taking into account one or two factors, and perhaps not the most +important ones. The cavillers may be reminded that physiology is not and +never will become a finite science. To my mind at least, as far as human +endurance is concerned, it would be no more surprising to me to hear that +a man had succeeded in walking up Mount Everest than to know that a man +can succeed in standing an arctic climate while on a sledging expedition. +Objections like the difficulty of arranging for a supply of food, of +expense, of risk, and so forth, are not taken into account--they are really +beside the question: they have not proved insuperable obstacles in the +case of arctic exploration; they will not prove insurmountable to the +ambitious mountaineer we are contemplating. I do not for a moment say that +it would be wise to ascend Mount Everest, but I believe most firmly that +it is humanly possible to do so; and, further, I feel sure that, even in +our own time, perhaps, the truth of these views will receive material +corroboration. Mount Everest itself may offer insuperable mountaineering +obstacles, but in the unknown, unseen district to the north there may be +peaks of equal height presenting no more technical difficulties than Mont +Blanc or Elbruz. + +(M146) + +From the purely athletic point of view, then, the mountaineering +experience which has been gained almost exclusively in the Alps may, by a +still further development in the future, enable the climber so to develop +the art that he may reach the highest elevation on this world's crust; and +he may do this without running undue risk. _Cui bono?_ it may be asked; +and it is nearly as hard to answer the question as it is to explain to the +supine and unaspiring person the good that may be expected to accrue to +humanity by reaching the North Pole; yet the latter project, albeit to +some it seems like a struggle of man against physical forces which make or +mar worlds, is one that is held to be right and proper to be followed. At +the least an observer, even of limited powers, may reasonably be expected, +supposing he accomplished such a feat as the ascent of Mount Everest, to +bring back results of equal scientific value with the arctic traveller, +while the purely geographical information he should gain would have +fiftyfold greater practical value. The art and science of mountaineering +has been learned and developed in the Alps, and the acquirement of this +learning has been a pleasure to many. If the holiday nature of +mountaineering should in the future be somewhat dropped, and if a few of +those who follow should take up the more serious side, and make what has +been a pastime into a profession (and why should not some do so? That +which is worth doing at all is worth developing to the utmost possible +limit), good will come, unless it be argued that there is no gain in +extending geographical knowledge; and no advantage in rectifying surveys +and rendering them as accurate as possible. As has been remarked by Mr. +Douglas Freshfield, the advantage of including in survey parties, such as +are still engaged on our Indian frontier, the services of some who have +made mountaineering a branch to be learnt in their profession, would be +very distinct. Work done in the Alps would, in this direction, perhaps, +bear the best fruit and reap the highest practical value which it might be +hoped to attain. The value would be real. The search after truth, whether +it be in the fields of natural science, of geography, or its to-be-adopted +sister orography, can never fail to be right and good and beneficial. +Enthusiasm all this! you say. Granted freely. Without some enthusiasm and +energy the world would cease to turn, and the retarding section of mankind +would be triumphant, save that they would be too languid to realise the +victory of their principles. + +But still, if properly qualified men are to be forthcoming to meet such a +want, which undoubtedly seems to exist, the old training-ground must not +be deserted; the playground of Europe must be regarded in relation to +serious work in the same light that the playing-fields of Eton were +regarded by one who was somewhat of an authority. The Great Duke's remark +is too well known to need quotation. English folk may find it hard to hold +their own against their near relations in athletic pursuits, such as +cricket and sculling, but in mountaineering they undoubtedly lead, and +will continue to do so. In one phase indeed of the pursuit their supremacy +is menaced. In the matter of recognising the practical value to be +obtained from mountaineering in surveying and the like, they are already +behind other countries. The roll of honorary members of the Alpine Club +comprises a list of men, most of whom have utilised their mountaineering +experience to good purpose in advancing scientific exploration. In this +department it is to be hoped that we shall not suffer ourselves to be +outstripped, nor allow a store of valuable and laboriously acquired +experience to remain wasted. The threatening cloud may pass off; the +future of Alpine mountaineering may not prove to be so gloomy as it +sometimes seems to the writer in danger of gradually becoming. The +depression is, possibly, only temporary, and a natural consequence of +reaction; and the zigzagging line on the chart, though it may never +perhaps rise again to the point it once marked, yet may keep well at the +normal--better, perhaps, at such a level than at fever heat. The old cry +that we know so well on the mountains, that meets always with a ready +thrill of response, may acquire a wider significance, and men will be +found to answer to the familiar call of "Vorwaerts, immer vorwaerts!" + +After all, a century hence the mountaineering centres of to-day will +perhaps still attract as they do now. It may be possible to get to +Chamouni without submitting to the elaborately devised discomfort of the +present Channel passage, and without the terrors of asphyxiation in the +carriages of the Chemin de Fer du Nord. Surely the charm of the mountains +must always draw men to the Alps, even though the glaciers may have shrunk +up and sunk down, though places like Arolla and the Grimsel may have +become thriving towns, or radical changes such as a drainage system at +Chamouni have been instituted. If the glaciers do shrink, there will be +all the more scope for the rock climber and the more opportunity of +perfecting an art which has already been so much developed. + +(M147) + +A Rip van Winkle of our day, waking up in that epoch of the future, would +for certain find much that was unaltered. The same types of humanity would +be around him. Conceive this somnolent hero of fiction, clad in a felt +wideawake that had once been white, in knickerbockers and Norfolk jacket, +of which the seams had at one time held together, supporting his bent +frame and creaking joints on a staff with rusted spike and pick. He +descends laboriously from a vehicle that had jolted impartially +generations before him (for the carriages of the valley are as little +liable to wear out, in the eyes of their proprietors, as the "wonderful +one-hoss shay"). He finds himself on a summer evening by the Hotel de +Ville at Chamouni, and facing the newly erected Opera-house. He looks with +wondering eyes around. A youth (great-great-great-great-grandson of +Jacques Balmat) approaches and waits respectfully by his side, ready to +furnish information. + +"Why these flags and these rejoicings?" the old man asks. + +"To celebrate the tercentenary of the first ascent of Mont Blanc," the boy +answers. + +The veteran gazes around, shading his eyes with his shrivelled hand. The +travellers come in. First a triumphal procession of successful and +intrepid mountaineers. Banners wave, cannon go off--or more probably miss +fire--bouquets are displayed, champagne and compliments are poured out; +both the latter expressions of congratulation equally gassy, and both +about equally genuine. + +"Who are these?" the old man inquires. + +"Do you not see the number on their banner?" answers the youth; "they are +the heroes of the forty-fifth section of the tenth branch of the northern +division of the Savoy Alpine Club." + +"Ah!" the old man murmurs to himself, with a sigh of recollection, "I can +remember that they were numerous even in my day." + +Then follows a sad-looking, dejected creature, stealing back to his hotel +by byways, but with face bronzed from exposure on rocks, not scorched by +sun-reflecting snow; his boots scored with multitudinous little cuts and +scratches telling of difficult climbing; his hands as brown as his face; +his finger-nails, it must be admitted, seriously impaired in their +symmetry. + +"And who is this? Has he been guilty of some crime?" the old man asks. + +"Not so," the answer comes; "he has just completed the thousandth ascent +of the Aiguille...; he comes of a curious race which, history relates, at +one time much frequented these districts; but that was a great while +ago--long before the monarchy was re-established. You do well to look at +him; that is the last of the climbing Englishmen. They always seem +depressed when they have succeeded in achieving their ambition of the +moment; it is a characteristic of their now almost extinct race." + +(M148) + +"And what about the perils of the expedition?" the old man asks, +brightening up a little as if some old ideas had suddenly flashed across +his mind. "I would fain know whether the journey is different now from +what it was formerly; yet the heroes would mock me, perchance, if I were +to interrogate them." + +"Not at all," the youth replies. "There are but few of the first party who +would not vouchsafe to give you a full account, and might even in their +courtesy embellish the narrative with flowers of rhetoric. But it is +unnecessary. They will print a detailed and full description of their +exploits. It has all been said before, but so has everything else, I +think." + +"That is true," the old man murmurs to himself; "it was even so in my +time, and two hundred years before I lived a French writer commenced his +book with the remark, '_Tout est dit._' But what of the other, the +dejected survivor? does he not too write?" + +"Yes, indeed, but not in the same strain; he will but pour out a little +gentle sarcasm and native spleen, in mild criticism of the fulsome periods +he peruses in other tongues." + +"Ah me!" thinks the old man, "in one respect then I need not prove so much +behind the time. If the memory of the Alpine literature of my day were +still fresh, I could hold mine own with those I see around." + +May I be permitted, in conclusion, to come back to our own day, and to say +a very few words on the subject of mountaineering accidents? Most heartily +would I concur with any one who raised the objection that such remarks are +out of place in a chapter on the mountaineering of the future. But perhaps +we have been looking too far ahead, and there may be a period to follow +between this our time and the future to be hoped for. + +(M149) + +It has sometimes been stated and written that no one desires to remove +from mountaineering all danger. The dangers of mountaineering have been +divided by a well-known authority into real and imaginary. The supposed +existence of the latter is, I grant, desirable, especially to the +inexperienced climber; but I shall always contend that it ought to be the +great object of every votary of the pursuit to minimise the former to the +utmost of his ability. Now, it is only by true experience--that is, by +learning gradually the art of mountaineering--that the climber will achieve +this result. Few of those unacquainted with the subject can have any idea +of the extraordinary difference between the risk run on a difficult +expedition (that is, on one where difficulties occur: the name of the peak +or pass has little to do with the matter) by a practised mountaineer who +has learned something of the art, and an inexperienced climber who has +nothing but the best intentions to assist his steps. The man of experience +bears always in mind the simple axioms and rules of his craft; if he does +not he is a bad mountaineer. If the plain truth be told, accidents in the +Alps have almost invariably, to whomsoever they befell, been due to +breaking one or more of these same well-known rules, or, in other words, +to bad mountaineering. That such is no more than a simple statement of +fact a former president of the Alpine Club, Mr. C. E. Mathews, has +abundantly proved.(14) Numbers of our countrymen, young and old, annually +rush out to the Alps for the first time. Fired with ambition, or led on by +the fascination of the pastime, with scarcely any preliminary training and +no preliminary study of the subject, they at once begin to attack the more +difficult peaks and passes. Success perhaps attends their efforts. Unfit, +they go up a difficult mountain, trusting practically to the ability of +the guides to do their employers' share of the work as well as their own. +They descend, and think to gauge their skill by the name of the expedition +undertaken. The state of the weather and of the mountain determine whether +such a performance be an act of simple or of culpable folly. For such the +imaginary dangers are the most formidable. If they had taken the trouble +to begin at the beginning, to learn the difference between the stem and +stern of a boat before attempting to navigate an ironclad, they would have +recognised, and profited by, the true risks run. As it is, they are +probably inflated with conceit at overcoming visionary difficulties. They +may make, indeed, in this way what in Alpine slang is called a good +"book;" but by far the greater number fail to perceive that there is +anything to learn. It is a pastime--an amusement; they do not look beyond +this. But these same climbers would admit that in other forms of sport, +such as cricket or rowing, proficiency is not found in beginners. It is in +the study and development of the amusement that the true and deeper +pleasure is to be found. A tyro in cricket would make himself an object of +ridicule in a high-class match; the novice in the art of rowing would be +loth to display his feeble powers if thrust into a racing four with three +tried oarsmen; and yet the embryo climber can see nothing absurd in +attacking mountains of recognised difficulty. Inexperience in the former +instances at least could cause no harm, while ignorance of the elementary +principles of mountaineering renders the climber a serious source of +danger not only to himself but to others. There is no royal road to the +acquirement of mountaineering knowledge. It is just as difficult to use +the axe or alpenstock properly as the oar or the racquet; just as much +patient, persevering practice is needed; but it is not on difficult +expeditions that such inexperience can be best overcome. + +(M150) + +A man of average activity could, probably, actually climb, without any +particular experience, most of, or all, the more difficult rock peaks +under good conditions of weather and the like. But how different from the +really practical mountaineer, who strives to make an art of his pastime. +Watch the latter. First and foremost, he knows when to turn back, and does +not hesitate to act as his judgment directs. He bears in mind that there +is pleasure to be obtained from mountaineering even though the programme +may not be carried out in its entirety as planned, and realises to the +full that + + 'Tis better to have climbed and failed + Than never to have climbed at all. + +His companions are always safe with him, his climbing unselfish; he never +dislodges a loose stone--except purposely--either with hands, feet, or the +loose rope; he is always as firm as circumstances will permit, prepared to +withstand any sudden slip; he never puts forth more strength at each step +than is necessary, thus saving his powers, being always ready in an +emergency, and never degenerating into that most dangerous of +encumbrances, a tired member of a united party: not, of course, that the +vast majority of amateurs can ever hope, with their imperfect practice, to +attain to the level of even a second-rate guide; still, by bringing his +intelligence to bear on this, as he does on any other amusement, the +amateur can render himself something more than a thoroughly reliable +companion on any justifiable expedition. + +(M151) + +Let the spirit of competition lead young climbers to strive after +excellence in this direction, rather than, as is too commonly the case, +induce them to take "Times" as the criterion of mountaineering +proficiency. There are instructors enough. Even from an inferior guide an +infinite amount may be learnt; at the least such a one can recognise the +real danger of the Alps, and in this respect possesses a faculty which is +one of the chief the mountaineer has to acquire. Let the spirit in which +the Alps are climbed be of some such nature as that I have attempted to +indicate, and accidents such as those recorded in Mr. C. E. Mathews' grim +list will be of such rare occurrence that they will never be called up to +discredit mountaineering. If, perchance, any words here written shall +prompt in the future the climber to perfect his art more and more while +frequenting the old haunts, and to extend and utilise mountaineering still +more, then at least the writer may feel, like the mountain when it had +brought forth the ridiculous mouse, that his labour has not been wholly in +vain. Yet more: his gloomy forebodings shall be falsified, and with +respect to the future of mountaineering the outlook will be bright enough. + + + + + LONDON: PRINTED BY + SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE + AND PARLIAMENT STREET + + + + + + + FOOTNOTES + + + M1 The survival of the unfit + M2 Sybaritic mountaineering + M3 The growth of the climbing craze + M4 A tropical day in the valley + M5 A deserted hostelry + M6 The hut above Fee + M7 How ruin seized a roofless thing + M8 On sleeping out + M9 The Suedlenzspitz + M10 A plea for Saas and Fee + M11 We attack the Suedlenzspitz + M12 The art of probing snow + M13 Sentiment on a summit + M14 The feast is spread + M15 Fact and romance + M16 The thirst for novelty + M17 Rock v. snow mountains + M18 The amateur and the guide + M19 The guides' room + + 1 Franz Andermatten died in August 1883. His name is mentioned + elsewhere in these sketches, but I leave what I have written + untouched: for I do not hold with those who would efface the + recollection of all that was bright and merry in one taken from us. + + M20 A false start + M21 Falling stones in the gully + M22 Effects of reaching a summit + M23 A narrow escape + M24 The youthful tourist + M25 Hotel trials + M26 The gushers + M27 The last peaks to surrender + M28 The Aiguille du Dru + M29 The first attempt + + 2 In the old house, be it noted--not the modern luxurious combination + of a granite fortress and a palace. + + M30 First attempt on the peak + M31 Huts and sleeping out + M32 The Chamouni guide system + M33 A word on guides + M34 A landlord's peculiarities + M35 We see a chamois + +_ 3 Travels in the Alps_, p. 119. + + M36 Doubts as to the peak + M37 Telescopic observations + M38 Franz and his mighty axe + M39 A start in the wrong direction + M40 An adjournment + M41 The expedition resumed + M42 A sticking point + M43 Beaten back + M44 Results gained + M45 Autres temps, autres moeurs + M46 The diligence arrives + M47 The Alpine habitue + M48 A family party + M49 A sepulchral bivouac + M50 On early starts + M51 The rocks of the Bietschhorn + M52 Avalanches on the Bietschhorn + M53 A dramatic situation + M54 The united party nearly fall out + M55 A limited panorama + M56 A race for home + M57 Caught out + M58 The water jump + M59 A classical banquet + M60 The old cure + M61 A "pension" in a train + M62 A youthful hero + M63 A scientific gentleman + M64 A dream of the future + M65 A condensed mountain ascent + M66 Wanted, a programme + M67 The Aiguille du Midi + M68 Ephemeral acquaintances + M69 A familiar character + M70 Halting doubts and fears + M71 The storm gathers + M72 "From gay to grave" + M73 The storm breaks + M74 A battle with the elements + M75 Beating the air + M76 Descent down Vallee Blanche + M77 A scanty repast + M78 A projected expedition + M79 Expeditions on the Aig. du Dru + M80 Other climbers attack the peak + M81 We try the northern side + M82 The mountain fever recurs + M83 The campaign opens + M84 A new leader + M85 Our sixteenth attempt + M86 Sports and pastimes + M87 Apparel oft proclaims the man + + 4 Described in anatomical text-books as forming the swelling of the + calf. + + M88 A canine acquaintance + M89 Turning point of the expedition + M90 A difficult descent + M91 A blank in the narrative + M92 A carriage misadventure + M93 A strange guide + M94 Our "jeune premier" + M95 An acrobatic performance + M96 Our nineteenth attempt + M97 The rocks of the Dru + M98 What next? + M99 A narrow escape + + 5 It has transpired since that our judgment happened to be right in + this matter, and we might probably have saved an hour or more at + this part of the ascent. + + M100 The final scramble + M101 Our foe is vanquished + M102 On the summit + M103 The return journey + M104 Benighted + M105 Shifting scenes + M106 The camp breaks up + M107 Mountaineering morality + M108 Chamouni becomes festive + M109 Organising the ball + M110 Chamouni dances + M111 The scene closes in + M112 On well-ordered intellects + M113 The critical tendency + M114 The "High Level Route" + M115 A prescription for ill-humour + M116 A meditation on grass slopes + M117 The agile person's vagaries + M118 Ascent of the Ruinette + M119 Saas in the olden days + + 6 Hector Berlioz. + + M120 A curious omission + M121 The chef's masterpiece + M122 An evicted family + M123 A short cut after a knife + M124 The amateur + M125 Mont Buet + M126 We hire carriages + M127 The incomplete moralist + M128 The niece to the moralist + M129 A discourse on gourmets + M130 An artistic interlude + M131 We become thoughtful + M132 A vision on the summit + M133 The mountaineers perform + M134 A banquet at the chalet + M135 The end of the journey + M136 I rise equal to the occasion + M137 A highly coloured account + M138 The critics + M139 Growth of the amusement + M140 Novelty and exploration + M141 The upward limit + + 7 This is Mr. Edward Whymper's measurement. Humboldt, as quoted by Mr. + Whymper, gave 21,460 feet as the height. (_Alpine Journal_, vol. x. + p. 442.) + + M142 Mr. Grove's views + +_ 8 The Frosty Caucasus_, by F. C. Grove, p. 236. + +_ 9 Travels in the Air_, edited by James Glaisher, F.R.S., p. 57 (2nd + ed.). + + M143 Mr. Glaisher's experiences + +_ 10 Op. cit._ p. 9. + + 11 I understand that the expedition has since been accomplished in a + much shorter time. + + 12 In Messrs. Coxwell and Glaisher's ascent from Wolverhampton the + balloon when at the height of 29,000 feet was mounting at the rate + of 1,000 feet a minute. + + 13 I am aware of M. Paul Bert's researches; but these questions are not + to be settled in the laboratory. + + M144 Mountain acclimatisation + M145 Ascent of Mount Everest + M146 The value of mountaineering + M147 An Alpine Rip van Winkle + M148 Mountaineering in the future + M149 Dangers of the Alps + +_ 14 Vide_ _Alpine Journal_, vol. xi. p. 78. "The Alpine Obituary," by + C. E. Mathews. + + M150 The real mountaineer + M151 Conclusion + + + + + + TRANSCRIBER'S NOTE + + +The following changes have been made to the text: + + page ix, page number "1" added + page xiv, page number "290" changed to "291" + page 31, "gulley" changed to "gully" + page 96, "sepulchra" changed to "sepulchral" + page 113, "complicate" changed to "complicated" + page 151, "thoughful" changed to "thoughtful" + page 216, "menta" changed to "mental" + page 255, "thier" changed to "their" + page 269, "in roduction" changed to "introduction" + page 310, parenthesis added before "2nd" + page 312, "developmen" changed to "development", "gradua" changed to + "gradual" + +Variations in hyphenation (e.g. "bootlace", "boot-lace"; "doorpost", +"door-post") have not been changed. + + + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ABOVE THE SNOW LINE*** + + + + CREDITS + + +March 1, 2011 + + Project Gutenberg TEI edition 1 + Produced by Greg Bergquist, Stefan Cramme, and the Online + Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This + file was produced from images generously made available by The + Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + A WORD FROM PROJECT GUTENBERG + + +This file should be named 35434.txt or 35434.zip. + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + + + http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/3/5/4/3/35434/ + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one -- the old editions will be +renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no one +owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation (and +you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without permission +and without paying copyright royalties. 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