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diff --git a/3535.txt b/3535.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..52b1aae --- /dev/null +++ b/3535.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2846 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Narrative of the Expedition to Botany Bay, by +Watkin Tench + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Narrative of the Expedition to Botany Bay + +Author: Watkin Tench + +Release Date: May 8, 2006 [EBook #3535] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXPEDITION TO BOTANY BAY *** + + + + +Produced by Col Choat and Stuart Kidd + + + + + +whitespace; small checks; poetry; italics; dashes; gut; + + + +A NARRATIVE OF THE EXPEDITION TO BOTANY BAY + + +by Watkin Tench + + + + +INTRODUCTION + + + +In offering this little tract to the public, it is equally the writer's +wish to conduce to their amusement and information. + +The expedition on which he is engaged has excited much curiosity, and +given birth to many speculations, respecting the consequences to arise +from it. While men continue to think freely, they will judge variously. +Some have been sanguine enough to foresee the most beneficial effects to +the Parent State, from the Colony we are endeavouring to establish; +and some have not been wanting to pronounce the scheme big with folly, +impolicy, and ruin. Which of these predictions will be completed, I +leave to the decision of the public. I cannot, however, dismiss the +subject without expressing a hope, that the candid and liberal of each +opinion, induced by the humane and benevolent intention in which it +originated, will unite in waiting the result of a fair trial to an +experiment, no less new in its design, than difficult in its execution. + +As this publication enters the world with the name of the author, +candour will, he trusts, induce its readers to believe, that no +consideration could weigh with him in an endeavour to mislead them. +Facts are related simply as they happened, and when opinions are +hazarded, they are such as, he hopes, patient inquiry, and deliberate +decision, will be found to have authorised. For the most part he has +spoken from actual observation; and in those places where the relations +of others have been unavoidably adopted. He has been careful to search +for the truth, and repress that spirit of exaggeration which is almost +ever the effect of novelty on ignorance. + +The nautical part of the work is comprized in as few pages as possible. +By the professional part of my readers this will be deemed judicious; +and the rest will not, I believe, be dissatisfied at its brevity. I beg +leave, however, to say of the astronomical calculations, that they +may be depended on with the greatest degree of security, as they were +communicated by an officer, who was furnished with instruments, and +commissioned by the Board of Longitude, to make observations during the +voyage, and in the southern hemisphere. + +An unpractised writer is generally anxious to bespeak public attention, +and to solicit public indulgence. Except on professional subjects, +military men are, perhaps, too fearful of critical censure. For the +present narrative no other apology is attempted, than the intentions of +its author, who has endeavoured not only to satisfy present curiosity, +but to point out to future adventurers, the favourable, as well as +adverse circumstances which will attend their settling here. The candid, +it is hoped, will overlook the inaccuracies of this imperfect sketch, +drawn amidst the complicated duties of the service in which the Author +is engaged, and make due allowance for the want of opportunity of +gaining more extensive information. + +Watkin Tench, Capt. of the Marines. + +Sydney Cove, Port Jackson, New South Wales, 10 July, 1788. + + + + + +CHAPTER I + + + +From the Embarkation of the Convicts, to the Departure of the Ships from +England. + + +The marines and convicts having been previously embarked in the River, +at Portsmouth, and Plymouth, the whole fleet destined for the expedition +rendezvoused at the Mother Bank, on the 16th of March 1787, and remained +there until the 13th of May following. In this period, excepting a +slight appearance of contagion in one of the transports, the ships were +universally healthy, and the prisoners in high spirits. Few complaints +or lamentations were to be heard among them, and an ardent wish for the +hour of departure seemed generally to prevail. + +As the reputation, equally with the safety of the officers and +soldiers appointed to guard the convicts, consisted in maintaining due +subordination, an opportunity was taken, immediately on their being +embarked, to convince them, in the most pointed terms, that any attempt +on their side, either to contest the command, or to force their escape, +should be punished with instant death; orders to this effect were given +to the centinels in their presence; happily, however, for all parties, +there occurred not any instance in which there was occasion to have +recourse to so desperate a measure; the behavior of the convicts being +in general humble, submissive, and regular: indeed I should feel myself +wanting in justice to those unfortunate men, were I not to bear this +public testimony of the sobriety and decency of their conduct. + +Unpleasant as a state of inactivity and delay for many weeks appeared +to us, it was not without its advantages; for by means of it we were +enabled to establish necessary regulations among the convicts, and to +adopt such a system of defence, as left us little to Apprehend for our +own security, in case a spirit of madness and desperation had hurried +them on to attempt our destruction. + +Among many other troublesome parts of duty which the service we were +engaged on required, the inspection of all letters brought to, or sent +from the ships, was not one of the least tiresome and disagreeable. The +number and contents of those in the vessel I was embarked in, frequently +surprised me very much; they varied according to the dispositions of +the writers: but their constant language was, an apprehension of the +impracticability of returning home, the dread of a sickly passage, +and the fearful prospect of a distant and barbarous country. But this +apparent despondency proceeded in few instances from sentiment. With too +many it was, doubtless, an artifice to awaken compassion, and call forth +relief; the correspondence invariably ending in a petition for money +and tobacco. Perhaps a want of the latter, which is considered a great +luxury by its admirers among the lower classes of life, might be the +more severely felt, from their being debarred in all cases whatever, +sickness excepted, the use of spirituous liquors. + +It may be thought proper for me to mention, that during our stay at the +Mother Bank, the soldiers and convicts were indiscriminately served +with fresh beef. The former, in addition, had the usual quantity of beer +allowed in the navy, and were at what is called full allowance of all +species of provisions; the latter, at two thirds only. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + + +From the Departure, to the Arrival of the Fleet at Teneriffe. + + +Governor Phillip having at length reached Portsmouth, and all things +deemed necessary for the expedition being put on board, at daylight +on the morning of the 13th, the signal to weigh anchor was made in the +Commanding Officer's ship the Sirius. Before six o'clock the whole +fleet were under sail; and, the weather being fine and wind easterly, +proceeded through the Needles with a fresh leading breeze. In addition +to our little armament, the Hyena frigate was ordered to accompany us +a certain distance to the westward, by which means our number was +increased to twelve sail: His Majesty's ships 'Sirius', 'Hyena', and +'Supply', three Victuallers with two years stores and provisions on +board for the Settlement, and six Transports, with troops and convicts. +In the transports were embarked four captains, twelve subalterns, +twenty-four serjeants and corporals, eight drummers, and one hundred and +sixty private marines, making the whole of the military force, including +the Major Commandant and Staff on board the Sirius, to consist of two +hundred and twelve persons, of whom two hundred and ten were volunteers. +The number of convicts was five hundred and sixty-five men, one hundred +and ninety-two women, and eighteen children; the major part of the +prisoners were mechanics and husbandmen, selected on purpose by order of +Government. + +By ten o'clock we had got clear of the Isle of Wight, at which time, +having very little pleasure in conversing with my own thoughts, I +strolled down among the convicts, to observe their sentiments at this +juncture. A very few excepted, their countenances indicated a high +degree of satisfaction, though in some, the pang of being severed, +perhaps for ever, from their native land, could not be wholly +suppressed; in general, marks of distress were more perceptible among +the men than the women; for I recollect to have seen but one of those +affected on the occasion, "Some natural tears she dropp'd, but wip'd +them soon." After this the accent of sorrow was no longer heard; more +genial skies and change of scene banished repining and discontent, and +introduced in their stead cheerfulness and acquiescence in a lot, now +not to be altered. + +To add to the good disposition which was beginning to manifest +itself, on the morning of the 20th, in consequence of some favorable +representations made by the officers commanding detachments, they were +hailed and told from the Sirius, that in those cases where they judged +it proper, they were at liberty to release the convicts from the fetters +in which they had been hitherto confined. In complying with these +directions, I had great pleasure in being able to extend this humane +order to the whole of those under my charge, without a single exception. +It is hardly necessary for me to say, that the precaution of ironing the +convicts at any time reached to the men only. + +In the evening of the same day, the Hyena left us for England, which +afforded an early opportunity of writing to our friends, and easing +their apprehensions by a communication of the favourable accounts it was +in our power to send them. + +From this time to the day of our making the land, little occurred worthy +of remark. I cannot, however, help noticing the propriety of employing +the marines on a service which requires activity and exertion at sea, in +preference to other troops. Had a regiment recruited since the war +been sent out, sea-sickness would have incapacitated half the men from +performing the duties immediately and indispensably necessary; whereas +the marines, from being accustomed to serve on board ship, accommodated +themselves with ease to every exigency, and surmounted every difficulty. + +At daybreak, on the morning of the 30th of May we saw the rocks named +the Deserters, which lie off the south-east end of Madeira; and found +the south-east extremity of the most southerly of them, to be in the +latitude of 32 deg 28 min north, longitude 16 deg 17 1/2 min west of +Greenwich. The following day we saw the Salvages, a cluster of rocks +which are placed between the Madeiras and Canary Islands, and determined +the latitude of the middle of the Great Salvage to be 30 deg 12 min +north, and the longitude of its eastern side to be 15 deg 39 min west. +It is no less extraordinary than unpardonable, that in some very modern +charts of the Atlantic, published in London, the Salvages are totally +omitted. + +We made the island of Teneriffe on the 3d of June, and in the evening +anchored in the road of Santa Cruz, after an excellent passage of three +weeks from the day we left England. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + + +From the Fleet's Arrival at Teneriffe, to its Departure for Rio de +Janeiro, in the Brazils. + + +There is little to please a traveller at Teneriffe. He has heard wonders +of its celebrated Peak, but he may remain for weeks together at the town +of Santa Cruz without having a glimpse of it, and when its cloud-topped +head emerges, the chance is, that he feels disappointed, for, from the +point of view in which he sees it, the neighbouring mountains lessen its +effect very considerably. Excepting the Peak, the eye receives little +pleasure from the general face of the country, which is sterile and +uninviting to the last degree. The town, however, from its cheerful +white appearance, contrasted with the dreary brownness of the back +ground, makes not an unpleasing coup d'oeil. It is neither irregular in +its plan, nor despicable in its style of building; and the churches and +religious houses are numerous, sumptuous, and highly ornamented. + +The morning of our arrival, as many officers as could be spared from the +different ships were introduced to the Marquis de Brancifort, Governor +of the Canary Islands, whose reception was highly flattering and polite. +His Excellency is a Sicilian by birth, and is most deservedly popular in +his government. He prefers residing at Teneriffe, for the conveniency +of frequent communication with Europe, to the Grand Canary, which is +properly the seat of power; and though not long fixed here, has already +found means to establish a manufactory in cotton, silk, and thread, +under excellent regulations, which employs more than sixty persons, and +is of infinite service to the common people. During our short stay we +had every day some fresh proof of his Excellency's esteem and attention, +and had the honour of dining with him, in a style of equal elegance and +splendor. At this entertainment the profusion of ices which appeared in +the desert was surprising, considering that we were enjoying them under +a sun nearly vertical. But it seems the caverns of the Peak, very far +below its summit, afford, at all seasons, ice in abundance. + +The restless importunity of the beggars, and the immodesty of the lowest +class of women, are highly disgusting. From the number of his countrymen +to be found, an Englishman is at no loss for society. In the mercantile +houses established here, it is from gentlemen of this description that +any information is derived, for the taciturnity of the Spaniards is not +to be overcome in a short acquaintance, especially by Englishmen, whose +reserve falls little short of their own. The inland country is described +as fertile, and highly romantic; and the environs of the small town of +Laguza mentioned as particularly pleasant. Some of our officers who made +an excursion to it confirmed the account amply. + +It should seem that the power of the Church, which has been so long +on the decline in Europe, is at length beginning to be shaken in the +colonies of the Catholic powers: some recent instances which have taken +place at Teneriffe, evince it very fully. Were not a stranger, however, +to be apprized of this, he would hardly draw the conclusion from his own +observations. The Bishop of these islands, which conjunctively form a +See, resides on the Grand Canary. He is represented as a man in years, +and of a character as amiable as exalted, extremely beloved both by +foreigners and those of his own church. The bishopric is valued at ten +thousand pounds per annum; the government at somewhat less than two. + +In spite of every precaution, while we lay at anchor in the road, a +convict had the address, one night, to secrete himself on the deck, when +the rest were turned below; and after remaining quiet for some hours, +let himself down over the bow of the ship, and floated to a boat that +lay astern, into which he got, and cutting her adrift, suffered himself +to be carried away by the current, until at a sufficient distance to +be out of hearing, when he rowed off. This elopement was not discovered +till some hours after, when a search being made, and boats sent to the +different parts of the island, he was discovered in a small cove, to +which he had fled for refuge. On being questioned, it appeared he had +endeavoured to get himself received on board a Dutch East Indiaman in +the road; but being rejected there, he resolved on crossing over to +the Grand Canary, which is at the distance of ten leagues, and when +detected, was recruiting his strength in order to make the attempt. At +the same time that the boats of the fleet were sent on this pursuit, +information was given to the Spanish Governor of what had happened, +who immediately detached parties every way in order to apprehend the +delinquent. + +Having remained a week at Teneriffe, and in that time completed our +stock of water, and taken on board wine, &c. early on the morning of +the 10th of June we weighed anchor, and stood out to sea with a light +easterly breeze. The shortness of our stay, and the consequent hurry, +prevented our increasing much any previous knowledge we might have had +of the place. For the information of those who may follow us on this +service, it may not, however, be amiss to state the little that will be +found of use to them. + +The markets afford fresh meat, though it is neither plentiful nor good. +Fish is scarce; but poultry may be procured in almost any quantity, at +as cheap a rate as in the English sea-ports. Vegetables do not abound, +except pumpkins and onions, of which I advise all ships to lay in a +large stock. Milch goats are bought for a trifle, and easily procured. +Grapes cannot be scarce in their season; but when we were here, except +figs and excellent mulberries, no fruit was to be procured. Dry wines, +as the merchants term them, are sold from ten to fifteen pounds a pipe; +for the latter price, the very best, called the London Particular, may +be bought: sweet wines are considerably dearer. Brandy is also a cheap +article. I would not advise the voyager to depend on this place for +either his hogs or sheep. And he will do well to supply himself with +dollars before he quits England, to expend in the different ports he may +happen to touch at. Should he, however, have neglected this precaution, +let him remember when he discounts bills, or exchanges English money +here, not to receive his returns in quarter dollars, which will be +tendered to him, but altogether in whole ones, as he will find the +latter turn to better account than the former, both at Rio de Janeiro +and the Cape of Good Hope. + +The latitude of the town of Santa Cruz is 28 deg 27 1/2 min north, the +longitude 16 deg 17 1/2 min west of Greenwich. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + + +The Passage from Teneriffe to Rio de Janeiro, in the Brazils. + + +In sailing from Teneriffe to the south-east, the various and picturesque +appearances of the Peak are beautiful to the highest degree. The +stupendous height, which before was lost on the traveller, now strikes +him with awe and admiration, the whole island appearing one vast +mountain with a pyramidal top. As we proceeded with light winds, at an +easy rate, we saw it distinctly for three days after our departure, +and should have continued to see it longer, had not the haziness of the +atmosphere interrupted our view. The good people of Santa Cruz tell some +stories of the wonderful extent of space to be seen from the summit +of it, that would not disgrace the memoirs of the ever-memorable Baron +Munchausen. + +On the 18th of June we saw the most northerly of the Cape de Verd +Islands, at which time the Commodore gave the fleet to understand, by +signal, that his intention was to touch at some of them. The following +day we made St. Jago, and stood in to gain an anchorage in Port Praya +Bay. But the baffling winds and lee current rendering it a matter of +doubt whether or not the ships would be able to fetch, the signal for +anchoring was hauled down, and the fleet bore up before the wind. In +passing along them we were enabled to ascertain the south end of the +Isle of Sal to be in 16 deg 40 min north latitude, and 23 deg 5 min west +longitude. The south end of Bonavista to be in 15 deg 57 min north, 23 +deg 8 min west. The south end of the Isle of May in 15 deg 11 min north, +23 deg 26 min west; and the longitude of the fort, in the town of Port +Praya, to be 23 deg 36 1/2 min west of Greenwich. + +By this time the weather, from the sun being so far advanced in the +northern tropic, was become intolerably hot, which, joined to the heavy +rains that soon after came on, made us very apprehensive for the health +of the fleet. Contrary, however, to expectation, the number of sick in +the ship I was embarked on was surprisingly small, and the rest of the +fleet were nearly as healthy. Frequent explosions of gunpowder, lighting +fires between decks, and a liberal use of that admirable antiseptic, +oil of tar, were the preventives we made use of against impure air; and +above all things we were careful to keep the men's bedding and wearing +apparel dry. As we advanced towards the Line, the weather grew gradually +better and more pleasant. On the 14th of July we passed the Equator, at +which time the atmosphere was as serene, and the temperature of the air +not hotter than in a bright summer day in England. From this period, +until our arrival on the American coast, the heats, the calms, and +the rains by which we had been so much incommoded, were succeeded by a +series of weather as delightful as it was unlooked for. At three o'clock +in the afternoon of the 2nd of August, the 'Supply', which had been +previously sent a-head on purpose, made the signal for seeing the land, +which was visible to the whole fleet before sunset, and proved to be +Cape Frio, in latitude 23 deg 5 min south, longitude 41 deg 40 1/4 min +west. + +Owing to light airs we did not get a-breast of the city of St. +Sebastian, in the harbour of Rio de Janeiro, until the 7th of the month, +when we anchored about three quarters of a mile from the shore. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + + +From the Arrival of the Fleet at Rio de Janeiro, till its Departure for +the Cape of Good Hope; with some Remarks on the Brazils. + + +Brazil is a country very imperfectly known in Europe. The Portugueze, +from political motives, have been sparing in their accounts of it. +Whence our descriptions of it, in the geographical publications in +England, are drawn, I know not: that they are miserably erroneous and +defective, is certain. + +The city of St. Sebastian stands on the west side of the harbour, in a +low unhealthy situation, surrounded on all sides by hills, which +stop the free circulation of air, and subject its inhabitants to +intermittents and putrid diseases. It is of considerable extent: Mr. +Cook makes it as large as Liverpool; but Liverpool, in 1767, when Mr. +Cook wrote, was not two-thirds of its present size. Perhaps it +equals Chester, or Exeter, in the share of ground it occupies, and is +infinitely more populous than either of them. The streets intersect each +other at right angles, are tolerably well built, and excellently paved, +abounding with shops of every kind, in which the wants of a stranger, +if money is not one of them, can hardly remain unsatisfied. About the +centre of the city, and at a little distance from the beach, the Palace +of the Viceroy stands, a long, low building, no wise remarkable in +its exterior appearance; though within are some spacious and handsome +apartments. The churches and convents are numerous, and richly +decorated; hardly a night passes without some of the latter being +illuminated in honour of their patron saints, which has a very brilliant +effect when viewed from the water, and was at first mistaken by us for +public rejoicings. At the corner of almost every street stands a little +image of the Virgin, stuck round with lights in an evening, before which +passengers frequently stop to pray and sing very loudly. Indeed, the +height to which religious zeal is carried in this place, cannot fail +of creating astonishment in a stranger. The greatest part of the +inhabitants seem to have no other occupation, than that of paying visits +and going to church, at which times you see them sally forth richly +dressed, en chapeau bras, with the appendages of a bag for the hair, +and a small sword: even boys of six years old are seen parading about, +furnished with these indispensable requisites. Except when at their +devotions, it is not easy to get a sight of the women, and when +obtained, the comparisons drawn by a traveller, lately arrived from +England, are little flattering to Portugueze beauty. In justice, +however, to the ladies of St. Sebastian, I must observe, that the custom +of throwing nosegays at strangers, for the purpose of bringing on an +assignation, which Doctor Solander, and another gentleman of Mr. Cook's +ship, met with when here, was never seen by any of us in a single +instance. We were so deplorably unfortunate as to walk every evening +before their windows and balconies, without being honoured with a single +bouquet, though nymphs and flowers were in equal and great abundance. + +Among other public buildings, I had almost forgot to mention an +observatory, which stands near the middle of the town, and is tolerably +well furnished with astronomical instruments. During our stay here, some +Spanish and Portuguese mathematicians were endeavouring to determine +the boundaries of the territories belonging to their respective crowns. +Unhappily, however, for the cause of science, these gentleman have not +hitherto been able to coincide in their accounts, so that very little +information on this head, to be depended upon, could be gained. How far +political motives may have caused this disagreement, I do not presume to +decide; though it deserves notice, that the Portuguese accuse the Abbee +de la Caille, who observed here by order of the King of France, of +having laid down the longitude of this place forty-five miles too much +to the eastward. + +Until the year 1770, all the flour in the settlement was brought +from Europe; but since that time the inhabitants have made so rapid a +progress in raising grain, as to be able to supply themselves with it +abundantly. The principal corn country lies around Rio Grande, in the +latitude of 32 deg south, where wheat flourishes so luxuriantly, as to +yield from seventy to eighty bushels for one. Coffee also, which they +formerly received from Portugal, now grows in such plenty as to enable +them to export considerable quantities of it. But the staple commodity +of the country is sugar. That they have not, however, learnt the art +of making palatable rum, the English troops in New South Wales can bear +testimony; a large quantity, very ill flavoured, having been bought and +shipped here for the use of the garrison of Port Jackson. + +It was in 1771 that St. Salvador, which had for more than a century been +the capital of Brazil, ceased to be so; and that the seat of Government +was removed to St. Sebastian. The change took place on account of +the colonial war, at that time carried on by the Courts of Lisbon and +Madrid. And, indeed, were the object of security alone to determine +the seat of Government, I know but few places better situated in that +respect than the one I am describing; the natural strength of the +country, joined to the difficulties which would attend an attack on the +fortifications, being such as to render it very formidable. + +It may be presumed that the Portuguese Government is well apprized of +this circumstance and of the little risque they run in being deprived +of so important a possession, else it will not be easy to penetrate the +reasons which induce them to treat the troops who compose the garrison +with such cruel negligence. Their regiments were ordered out with a +promise of being relieved, and sent back to Europe at the end of +three years, in conformity to which they settled all their domestic +arrangements. But the faith of Government has been broken, and at the +expiration of twenty years, all that is left to the remnant of these +unfortunate men, is to suffer in submissive silence. I was one evening +walking with a Portuguese officer, when this subject was started, and +on my telling him, that such a breach of public honour to English troops +would become a subject of parliamentary enquiry, he seized my hand +with great eagerness, "Ah, Sir!" exclaimed he, "yours is a free +country--we"!----His emotions spoke what his tongue refused. + +As I am mentioning the army, I cannot help observing, that I saw nothing +here to confirm the remark of Mr. Cook, that the inhabitants of the +place, whenever they meet an officer of the garrison, bow to him with +the greatest obsequiousness; and by omitting such a ceremony, would +subject themselves to be knocked down, though the other seldom deigns to +return the compliment. The interchange of civilities is general between +them, and seems by no means extorted. The people who could submit to +such insolent superiority, would, indeed, deserve to be treated as +slaves. + +The police of the city is very good. Soldiers patrole the streets +frequently, and riots are seldom heard of. The dreadful custom of +stabbing, from motives of private resentment, is nearly at an end, +since the church has ceased to afford an asylum to murderers. In other +respects, the progress of improvement appears slow, and fettered by +obstacles almost insurmountable, whose baneful influence will continue, +until a more enlightened system of policy shall be adopted. From morning +to night the ears of a stranger are greeted by the tinkling of the +convent bells, and his eyes saluted by processions of devotees, whose +adoration and levity seem to keep equal pace, and succeed each other in +turns. "Do you want to make your son sick of soldiering? Shew him the +Trainbands of London on a field-day." Let him who would wish to give his +son a distaste to Popery, point out to him the sloth, the ignorance, and +the bigotry of this place. + +Being nearly ready to depart by the 1st of September, as many officers +as possible went on that day to the palace to take leave of his +Excellency, the Viceroy of the Brazils, to whom we had been previously +introduced; who on this, and every other occasion, was pleased to honour +us with the most distinguished marks of regard and attention. Some part, +indeed, of the numerous indulgencies we experienced during our stay +here, must doubtless be attributed to the high respect in which the +Portuguese held Governor Phillip, who was for many years a captain in +their navy, and commanded a ship of war on this station: in consequence +of which, many privileges were extended to us, very unusual to be +granted to strangers. We were allowed the liberty of making short +excursions into the country, and on these occasions, as well as when +walking in the city, the mortifying custom of having an officer of the +garrison attending us was dispensed with on our leaving our names +and ranks, at the time of landing, with the adjutant of orders at the +palace. It happened, however, sometimes, that the presence of a +military man was necessary to prevent imposition in the shopkeepers, who +frequently made a practice of asking more for their goods than the worth +of them. In which case an officer, when applied to, always told us the +usual price of the commodity with the greatest readiness, and adjusted +the terms of the purchase. + +On the morning of the fourth of September we left Rio de Janeiro, +amply furnished with the good things which its happy soil and clime so +abundantly produce. The future voyager may with security depend on +this place for laying in many parts of his stock. Among these may be +enumerated sugar, coffee, rum, port wine, rice, tapioca, and tobacco, +besides very beautiful wood for the purposes of household furniture. +Poultry is not remarkably cheap, but may be procured in any quantity; +as may hops at a low rate. The markets are well supplied with butcher's +meat, and vegetables of every sort are to be procured at a price next to +nothing; the yams are particularly excellent. Oranges abound so much, +as to be sold for sixpence a hundred; and limes are to be had on terms +equally moderate. Bananas, cocoa nuts, and guavas, are common; but the +few pineapples brought to market are not remarkable either for +flavour, or cheapness. Besides the inducements to lay out money already +mentioned, the naturalist may add to his collection by an almost endless +variety of beautiful birds and curious insects, which are to be bought +at a reasonable price, well preserved, and neatly assorted. + +I shall close my account of this place by informing strangers, who may +come here, that the Portuguese reckon their money in rees, an imaginary +coin, twenty of which make a small copper piece called a 'vintin', and +sixteen of these last a 'petack'. Every piece is marked with the number +of rees it is worth, so that a mistake can hardly happen. English silver +coin has lost its reputation here, and dollars will be found preferable +to any other money. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + + +The Passage from the Brazils to the Cape of Good Hope; with an Account +of the Transactions of the Fleet there. + + +Our passage from Rio de Janeiro to the Cape of Good Hope was equally +prosperous with that which had preceded it. We steered away to the +south-east, and lost sight of the American coast the day after our +departure. From this time until the 13th of October, when we made the +Cape, nothing remarkable occurred, except the loss of a convict in the +ship I was on board, who unfortunately fell into the sea, and perished +in spite of our efforts to save him, by cutting adrift a life buoy and +hoisting out a boat. During the passage, a slight dysentery prevailed +in some of the ships, but was in no instance mortal. We were at first +inclined to impute it to the water we took on board at the Brazils, but +as the effect was very partial, some other cause was more probably the +occasion of it. + +At seven o'clock in the evening of the 13th of October, we cast anchor +in Table Bay, and found many ships of different nations in the harbour. + +Little can be added to the many accounts already published of the Cape +of Good Hope, though, if an opinion on the subject might be risqued, the +descriptions they contain are too flattering. When contrasted with Rio +de Janeiro, it certainly suffers in the comparison. Indeed we arrived at +a time equally unfavourable for judging of the produce of the soil and +the temper of its cultivators, who had suffered considerably from a +dearth that had happened the preceding season, and created a general +scarcity. Nor was the chagrin of these deprivations lessened by the news +daily arriving of the convulsions that shook the republic, which could +not fail to make an impression even on Batavian phlegm. + +As a considerable quantity of flour, and the principal part of the live +stock, which was to store our intended settlement, were meant to be +procured here, Governor Phillip lost no time in waiting on Mynheer Van +Graaffe, the Dutch Governor, to request permission (according to the +custom of the place) to purchase all that we stood in need of. How far +the demand extended, I know not, nor Mynheer Van Graaffe's reasons for +complying with it in part only. To this gentleman's political sentiments +I confess myself a stranger; though I should do his politeness and +liberality at his own table an injustice, were I not to take this public +opportunity of acknowledging them; nor can I resist the opportunity +which presents itself, to inform my readers, in honor of M. Van +Graaffe's humanity, that he has made repeated efforts to recover the +unfortunate remains of the crew of the Grosvenor Indiaman, which was +wrecked about five years ago on the coast of Caffraria. This information +was given me by Colonel Gordon, commandant of the Dutch troops at the +Cape, whose knowledge of the interior parts of this country surpasses +that of any other man. And I am sorry to say that the Colonel added, +these unhappy people were irrecoverably lost to the world and their +friends, by being detained among the Caffres, the most savage set of +brutes on earth. + +His Excellency resides at the Government house, in the East India +Company's garden. This last is of considerable extent, and is planted +chiefly with vegetables for the Dutch Indiamen which may happen to touch +at the port. Some of the walks are extremely pleasant from the shade +they afford, and the whole garden is very neatly kept. The regular lines +intersecting each other at right angles, in which it is laid out, will, +nevertheless, afford but little gratification to an Englishman, who +has been used to contemplate the natural style which distinguishes the +pleasure grounds of his own country. At the head of the centre walks +stands a menagerie, on which, as well as the garden, many pompous +eulogiums have been passed, though in my own judgment, considering the +local advantages possessed by the Company, it is poorly furnished +both with animals and birds; a tyger, a zebra, some fine ostriches, a +cassowary, and the lovely crown-fowl, are among the most remarkable. + +The table land, which stands at the back of the town, is a black dreary +looking mountain, apparently flat at top, and of more than eleven +hundred yards in height. The gusts of wind which blow from it are +violent to an excess, and have a very unpleasant effect, by raising +the dust in such clouds, as to render stirring out of doors next to +impossible. Nor can any precaution prevent the inhabitants from being +annoyed by it, as much within doors as without. + +At length the wished-for day, on which the next effort for reaching the +place of our destination was to be made, appeared. The morning was calm, +but the land wind getting up about noon, on the 12th of November we +weighed anchor, and soon left far behind every scene of civilization and +humanized manners, to explore a remote and barbarous land; and plant in +it those happy arts, which alone constitute the pre-eminence and dignity +of other countries. + +The live animals we took on board on the public account from the Cape, +for stocking our projected colony, were, two bulls, three cows, three +horses, forty-four sheep, and thirty-two hogs, besides goats, and a very +large quantity of poultry of every kind. A considerable addition to this +was made by the private stocks of the officers, who were, however, under +a necessity of circumscribing their original intentions on this head +very much, from the excessive dearness of many of the articles. It will +readily be believed, that few of the military found it convenient to +purchase sheep, when hay to feed them costs sixteen shillings a hundred +weight. + +The boarding-houses on shore, to which strangers have recourse, are more +reasonable than might be expected. For a dollar and a half per day +we were well lodged, and partook of a table tolerably supplied in the +French style. Should a traveller's stock of tea run short, it is a +thousand chances to one that he will be able to replenish it here at a +cheaper rate than in England. He may procure plenty of arrack and white +wine; also raisins, and dried fruits of other sorts. If he dislikes to +live at a boarding-house, he will find the markets well stored, and the +price of butcher's meat and vegetables far from excessive. + +Just before the signal for weighing was made, a ship, under American +colours, entered the road, bound from Boston, from whence she had sailed +one hundred and forty days, on a trading voyage to the East Indies. In +her route, she had been lucky enough to pick up several of the inferior +officers and crew of the Harcourt East-Indiaman, which ship had been +wrecked on one of the Cape de Verd Islands. The master, who appeared +to be a man of some information, on being told the destination of our +fleet, gave it as his opinion, that if a reception could be secured, +emigrations would take place to New South Wales, not only from the old +continent, but the new one, where the spirit of adventure and thirst for +novelty were excessive. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + + +The Passage from the Cape of Good Hope to Botany Bay. + + +We had hardly cleared the land when a south-east wind set in, and, +except at short intervals, continued to blow until the 19th of the +month; when we were in the latitude of 37 deg 40 min south, and by the +time-keeper, in longitude 11 deg 30 min east, so that our distance from +Botany Bay had increased nearly an hundred leagues since leaving the +Cape. As no appearance of a change in our favour seemed likely to take +place, Governor Phillip at this time signified his intention of shifting +his pennant from the Sirius to the 'Supply', and proceeding on his +voyage without waiting for the rest of the fleet, which was formed in +two divisions. The first consisting of three transports, known to be the +best sailors, was put under the command of a Lieutenant of the navy; +and the remaining three, with the victuallers, left in charge of Captain +Hunter, of his Majesty's ship Sirius. In the last division was the +vessel, in which the author of this narrative served. Various causes +prevented the separation from taking place until the 25th, when several +sawyers, carpenters, blacksmiths, and other mechanics, were shifted +from different ships into the 'Supply', in order to facilitate his +Excellency's intention of forwarding the necessary buildings to be +erected at Botany Bay, by the time the rest of the fleet might be +expected to arrive. Lieutenant Governor Ross, and the Staff of the +marine battalion, also removed from the Sirius into the Scarborough +transport, one of the ships of the first division, in order to afford +every assistance which the public service might receive, by their being +early on the spot on which our future operations were to be conducted. + +From this time a succession of fair winds and pleasant weather +corresponded to our eager desires, and on the 7th of January, 1788, the +long wished for shore of Van Diemen gratified our sight. We made the +land at two o'clock in the afternoon, the very hour we expected to see +it from the lunar observations of Captain Hunter, whose accuracy, as +an astronomer, and conduct as an officer, had inspired us with equal +gratitude and admiration. + +After so long a confinement, on a service so peculiarly disgusting and +troublesome, it cannot be matter of surprise that we were overjoyed at +the near prospect of a change of scene. By sunset we had passed between +the rocks, which Captain Furneaux named the Mewstone and Swilly. +The former bears a very close resemblance to the little island near +Plymouth, whence it took its name: its latitude is 43 deg 48 min south, +longitude 146 deg 25 min east of Greenwich. + +In running along shore, we cast many an anxious eye towards the land, +on which so much of our future destiny depended. Our distance, joined to +the haziness of the atmosphere, prevented us, however, from being able +to discover much. With our best glasses we could see nothing but hills +of a moderate height, cloathed with trees, to which some little patches +of white sandstone gave the appearance of being covered with snow. Many +fires were observed on the hills in the evening. + +As no person in the ship I was on board had been on this coast before, +we consulted a little chart, published by Steele, of the Minories, +London, and found it, in general, very correct; it would be more so, +were not the Mewstone laid down at too great a distance from the land, +and one object made of the Eddystone and Swilly, when, in fact, they +are distinct. Between the two last is an entire bed of impassable rocks, +many of them above water. The latitude of the Eddystone is 43 deg 53 +1/2 min, longitude 147 deg 9 min; that of Swilly 43 deg 54 min south, +longitude 147 deg 3 min east of Greenwich. + +In the night the westerly wind, which had so long befriended us, died +away, and was succeeded by one from the north-east. When day appeared +we had lost sight of the land, and did not regain it until the 19th, at +only the distance of 17 leagues from our desired port. The wind was now +fair, the sky serene, though a little hazy, and the temperature of +the air delightfully pleasant: joy sparkled in every countenance, and +congratulations issued from every mouth. Ithaca itself was scarcely +more longed for by Ulysses, than Botany Bay by the adventurers who had +traversed so many thousand miles to take possession of it. + +"Heavily in clouds came on the day" which ushered in our arrival. To us +it was "a great, an important day," though I hope the foundation, not +the fall, of an empire will be dated from it. + +On the morning of the 20th, by ten o'clock, the whole of the fleet had +cast anchor in Botany Bay, where, to our mutual satisfaction, we found +the Governor, and the first division of transports. On inquiry, we +heard, that the 'Supply' had arrived on the 18th, and the transports +only the preceding day. + +Thus, after a passage of exactly thirty-six weeks from Portsmouth, +we happily effected our arduous undertaking, with such a train +of unexampled blessings as hardly ever attended a fleet in a like +predicament. Of two hundred and twelve marines we lost only one; and of +seven hundred and seventy-five convicts, put on board in England, but +twenty-four perished in our route. To what cause are we to attribute +this unhoped for success? I wish I could answer to the liberal manner in +which Government supplied the expedition. But when the reader is told, +that some of the necessary articles allowed to ships on a common passage +to West Indies, were withheld from us; that portable soup, wheat, and +pickled vegetables were not allowed; and that an inadequate quantity of +essence of malt was the only antiscorbutic supplied, his surprise will +redouble at the result of the voyage. For it must be remembered, that +the people thus sent out were not a ship's company starting with every +advantage of health and good living, which a state of freedom produces; +but the major part a miserable set of convicts, emaciated from +confinement, and in want of cloaths, and almost every convenience to +render so long a passage tolerable. I beg leave, however, to say, that +the provisions served on board were good, and of a much superior quality +to those usually supplied by contract: they were furnished by Mr. +Richards, junior, of Walworth, Surrey. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + + +From the Fleet's Arrival at Botany Bay to the Evacuation of it; and +taking Possession of Port Jackson. Interviews with the Natives; and an +Account of the Country about Botany Bay. + + +We had scarcely bid each other welcome on our arrival, when +an expedition up the Bay was undertaken by the Governor and +Lieutenant-Governor, in order to explore the nature of the country, and +fix on a spot to begin our operations upon. None, however, which could +be deemed very eligible, being discovered, his Excellency proceeded in +a boat to examine the opening, to which Mr. Cook had given the name of +Port Jackson, on an idea that a shelter for shipping within it might +be found. The boat returned on the evening of the 23rd, with such an +account of the harbour and advantages attending the place, that it +was determined the evacuation of Botany Bay should commence the next +morning. + +In consequence of this decision, the few seamen and marines who had +been landed from the squadron, were instantly reimbarked, and every +preparation made to bid adieu to a port which had so long been the +subject of our conversation; which but three days before we had entered +with so many sentiments of satisfaction; and in which, as we had +believed, so many of our future hours were to be passed. The thoughts of +removal banished sleep, so that I rose at the first dawn of the morning. +But judge of my surprize on hearing from a serjeant, who ran down almost +breathless to the cabin where I was dressing, that a ship was seen off +the harbour's mouth. At first I only laughed, but knowing the man +who spoke to me to be of great veracity, and hearing him repeat his +information, I flew upon deck, on which I had barely set my foot, when +the cry of "another sail" struck on my astonished ear. + +Confounded by a thousand ideas which arose in my mind in an instant, I +sprang upon the barricado and plainly descried two ships of considerable +size, standing in for the mouth of the Bay. By this time the alarm had +become general, and every one appeared lost in conjecture. Now they were +Dutchmen sent to dispossess us, and the moment after storeships from +England, with supplies for the settlement. The improbabilities which +attended both these conclusions, were sunk in the agitation of the +moment. It was by Governor Phillip, that this mystery was at length +unravelled, and the cause of the alarm pronounced to be two French +ships, which, it was now recollected, were on a voyage of discovery +in the southern hemisphere. Thus were our doubts cleared up, and our +apprehensions banished; it was, however, judged expedient to postpone +our removal to Port Jackson, until a complete confirmation of our +conjectures could be procured. + +Had the sea breeze set in, the strange ships would have been at anchor +in the Bay by eight o'clock in the morning, but the wind blowing out, +they were driven by a strong lee current to the southward of the port. +On the following day they re-appeared in their former situation, and a +boat was sent to them, with a lieutenant of the navy in her, to offer +assistance, and point out the necessary marks for entering the harbour. +In the course of the day the officer returned, and brought intelligence +that the ships were the Boussole and Astrolabe, sent out by order of +the King of France, and under the command of Monsieur De Perrouse. The +astonishment of the French at seeing us, had not equalled that we had +experienced, for it appeared, that in the course of their voyage they +had touched at Kamschatka, and by that means learnt that our expedition +was in contemplation. They dropped anchor the next morning, just as +we had got under weigh to work out of the Bay, so that for the present +nothing more than salutations could pass between us. + +Before I quit Botany Bay, I shall relate the observations we were +enabled to make during our short stay there; as well as those which our +subsequent visits to it from Port Jackson enabled us to complete. + +The Bay is very open, and greatly exposed to the fury of the S.E. winds, +which, when they blow, cause a heavy and dangerous swell. It is of +prodigious extent, the principal arm, which takes a S.W. direction, +being not less, including its windings, than twenty four miles from the +capes which form the entrance, according to the report of the French +officers, who took uncommon pains to survey it. At the distance of a +league from the harbour's mouth is a bar, on which at low water, not +more than fifteen feet are to be found. Within this bar, for many miles +up the S.W. arm, is a haven, equal in every respect to any hitherto +known, and in which any number of ships might anchor, secured from all +winds. The country around far exceeds in richness of soil that about +Cape Banks and Point Solander, though unfortunately they resemble each +other in one respect, a scarcity of fresh water. + +We found the natives tolerably numerous as we advanced up the river, and +even at the harbour's mouth we had reason to conclude the country more +populous than Mr. Cook thought it. For on the Supply's arrival in the +Bay on the 18th of the month, they were assembled on the beach of the +south shore, to the number of not less than forty persons, shouting +and making many uncouth signs and gestures. This appearance whetted +curiosity to its utmost, but as prudence forbade a few people to venture +wantonly among so great a number, and a party of only six men was +observed on the north shore, the Governor immediately proceeded to land +on that side, in order to take possession of his new territory, and +bring about an intercourse between its old and new masters. The boat in +which his Excellency was, rowed up the harbour, close to the land, for +some distance; the Indians keeping pace with her on the beach. At last +an officer in the boat made signs of a want of water, which it was +judged would indicate his wish of landing. The natives directly +comprehended what he wanted, and pointed to a spot where water could +be procured; on which the boat was immediately pushed in, and a landing +took place. As on the event of this meeting might depend so much of +our future tranquillity, every delicacy on our side was requisite. +The Indians, though timorous, shewed no signs of resentment at the +Governor's going on shore; an interview commenced, in which the conduct +of both parties pleased each other so much, that the strangers returned +to their ships with a much better opinion of the natives than they had +landed with; and the latter seemed highly entertained with their new +acquaintance, from whom they condescended to accept of a looking glass, +some beads, and other toys. + +Owing to the lateness of our arrival, it was not my good fortune to go +on shore until three days after this had happened, when I went with a +party to the south side of the harbour, and had scarcely landed five +minutes, when we were met by a dozen Indians, naked as at the moment of +their birth, walking along the beach. Eager to come to a conference, and +yet afraid of giving offence, we advanced with caution towards them, +nor would they, at first approach nearer to us than the distance of +some paces. Both parties were armed; yet an attack seemed as unlikely on +their part, as we knew it to be on our own. + +I had at this time a little boy, of not more than seven years of age, in +my hand. The child seemed to attract their attention very much, for they +frequently pointed to him and spoke to each other; and as he was not +frightened, I advanced with him towards them, at the same time baring +his bosom and, shewing the whiteness of the skin. On the cloaths being +removed, they gave a loud exclamation, and one of the party, an old man, +with a long beard, hideously ugly, came close to us. I bade my little +charge not to be afraid, and introduced him to the acquaintance of this +uncouth personage. The Indian, with great gentleness, laid his hand on +the child's hat, and afterwards felt his cloaths, muttering to himself +all the while. I found it necessary, however, by this time to send away +the child, as such a close connection rather alarmed him; and in this, +as the conclusion verified, I gave no offence to the old gentleman. +Indeed it was but putting ourselves on a par with them, as I had +observed from the first, that some youths of their own, though +considerably older than the one with us, were, kept back by the grown +people. + +Several more now came up, to whom, we made various presents, but our +toys seemed not to be regarded as very valuable; nor would they for a +long time make any returns to them, though before we parted, a large +club, with a head almost sufficient to fell an ox, was obtained in +exchange for a looking-glass. These people seemed at a loss to know +(probably from our want of beards) of what sex we were, which having +understood, they burst into the most immoderate fits of laughter, +talking to each other at the same time with such rapidity and +vociferation as I had never before heard. After nearly an hour's +conversation by signs and gestures, they repeated several times the word +whurra, which signifies, begone, and walked away from us to the head of +the Bay. + +The natives being departed, we set out to observe the country, which, +on inspection, rather disappointed our hopes, being invariably sandy and +unpromising for the purposes of cultivation, though the trees and grass +flourish in great luxuriancy. Close to us was the spring at which Mr. +Cook watered, but we did not think the water very excellent, nor did +it run freely. In the evening we returned on board, not greatly pleased +with the latter part of our discoveries, as it indicated an increase of +those difficulties, which before seemed sufficiently numerous. + +Between this and our departure we had several more interviews with the +natives, which ended in so friendly a manner, that we began to entertain +strong hopes of bringing about a connection with them. Our first object +was to win their affections, and our next to convince them of the +superiority we possessed: for without the latter, the former we knew +would be of little importance. + +An officer one day prevailed on one of them to place a target, made of +bark, against a tree, which he fired at with a pistol, at the distance +of some paces. The Indians, though terrified at the report, did not run +away, but their astonishment exceeded their alarm, on looking at the +shield which the ball had perforated. As this produced a little shyness, +the officer, to dissipate their fears and remove their jealousy, +whistled the air of Malbrooke, which they appeared highly charmed +with, and imitated him with equal pleasure and readiness. I cannot help +remarking here, what I was afterwards told by Monsieur De Perrouse, that +the natives of California, and throughout all the islands of the Pacific +Ocean, and in short wherever he had been, seemed equally touched and +delighted with this little plaintive air. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + + +The taking Possession of Port Jackson, with the Disembarkation of the +Marines and Convicts. + + +Our passage to Port Jackson took up but few hours, and those were spent +far from unpleasantly. The evening was bright, and the prospect before +us such as might justify sanguine expectation. Having passed between the +capes which form its entrance, we found ourselves in a port superior, in +extent and excellency, to all we had seen before. We continued to run +up the harbour about four miles, in a westerly direction, enjoying the +luxuriant prospect of its shores, covered with trees to the water's +edge, among which many of the Indians were frequently seen, till we +arrived at a small snug cove on the southern side, on whose banks the +plan of our operations was destined to commence. + +The landing of a part of the marines and convicts took place the next +day, and on the following, the remainder was disembarked. Business +now sat on every brow, and the scene, to an indifferent spectator, +at leisure to contemplate it, would have been highly picturesque and +amusing. In one place, a party cutting down the woods; a second, setting +up a blacksmith's forge; a third, dragging along a load of stones or +provisions; here an officer pitching his marquee, with a detachment of +troops parading on one side of him, and a cook's fire blazing up on +the other. Through the unwearied diligence of those at the head of the +different departments, regularity was, however, soon introduced, and, as +far as the unsettled state of matters would allow, confusion gave place +to system. + +Into the head of the cove, on which our establishment is fixed, runs a +small stream of fresh water, which serves to divide the adjacent country +to a little distance, in the direction of north and south. On the +eastern side of this rivulet the Governor fixed his place of residence, +with a large body of convicts encamped near him; and on the western +side was disposed the remaining part of these people, near the marine +encampment. From this last two guards, consisting of two subalterns, as +many serjeants, four corporals, two drummers, and forty-two private men, +under the orders of a Captain of the day, to whom all reports were +made, daily mounted for the public security, with such directions to +use force, in case of necessity, as left no room for those who were the +object of the order, but to remain peaceable, or perish by the bayonet. + +As the straggling of the convicts was not only a desertion from the +public labour, but might be attended with ill consequences to the +settlement, in case of their meeting the natives, every care was taken +to prevent it. The Provost Martial with his men was ordered to patrole +the country around, and the convicts informed, that the severest +punishment would be inflicted on transgressors. In spite, however, of +all our precautions, they soon found the road to Botany Bay, in visits +to the French, who would gladly have dispensed with their company. + +But as severity alone was known to be inadequate at once to chastize and +reform, no opportunity was omitted to assure the convicts, that by +their good behaviour and submissive deportment, every claim to present +distinction and future favour was to be earned. That this caution was +not attended with all the good effects which were hoped from it, I have +only to lament; that it operated in some cases is indisputable; nor will +a candid and humane mind fail to consider and allow for the situation +these unfortunate beings so peculiarly stood in. While they were on +board ship, the two sexes had been kept most rigorously apart; but, +when landed, their separation became impracticable, and would have been, +perhaps, wrong. Licentiousness was the unavoidable consequence, and +their old habits of depravity were beginning to recur. What was to be +attempted? To prevent their intercourse was impossible; and to palliate +its evils only remained. Marriage was recommended, and such advantages +held out to those who aimed at reformation, as have greatly contributed +to the tranquillity of the settlement. + +On the Sunday after our landing divine service was performed under a +great tree, by the Rev. Mr. Johnson, Chaplain of the Settlement, in the +presence of the troops and convicts, whose behaviour on the occasion +was equally regular and attentive. In the course of our passage this +had been repeated every Sunday, while the ships were in port; and in +addition to it, Mr. Johnson had furnished them with books, at once +tending to promote instruction and piety. + +The Indians for a little while after our arrival paid us frequent +visits, but in a few days they were observed to be more shy of our +company. From what cause their distaste: arose we never could trace, +as we had made it our study, on these occasions, to treat them with +kindness, and load them with presents. No quarrel had happened, and we +had flattered ourselves, from Governor Phillip's first reception among +them, that such a connection might be established as would tend to the +interest of both parties. It seems, that on that occasion, they not only +received our people with great cordiality, but so far acknowledged their +authority as to submit, that a boundary, during their first interview, +might be drawn on the sand, which they attempted not to infringe, and +appeared to be satisfied with. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + + + +The reading of the Commissions, and taking Possession of the Settlement, +in form. With an Account of the Courts of Law, and Mode of administering +Public Justice in this Country. + + +Owing to the multiplicity of pressing business necessary to be performed +immediately after landing, it was found impossible to read the public +commissions and take possession of the colony in form, until the 7th of +February. On that day all the officers of guard took post in the marine +battalion, which was drawn up, and marched off the parade with music +playing, and colours flying, to an adjoining ground, which had been +cleared for the occasion, whereon the convicts were assembled to hear +His Majesty's commission read, appointing his Excellency Arthur Phillip, +Esq. Governor and Captain General in and over the territory of New South +Wales, and its dependencies; together with the Act of Parliament for +establishing trials by law within the same; and the patents under the +Great Seal of Great Britain, for holding the civil and criminal courts +of judicature, by which all cases of life and death, as well as matters +of property, were to be decided. When the Judge Advocate had finished +reading, his Excellency addressed himself to the convicts in a pointed +and judicious speech, informing them of his future intentions, which +were, invariably to cherish and render happy those who shewed a +disposition to amendment; and to let the rigour of the law take its +course against such as might dare to transgress the bounds prescribed. +At the close three vollies were fired in honour of the occasion, and the +battalion marched back to their parade, where they were reviewed by the +Governor, who was received with all the honours due to his rank. His +Excellency was afterwards pleased to thank them, in public orders, +for their behaviour from the time of their embarkation; and to ask the +officers to partake of a cold collation at which it is scarce +necessary to observe, that many loyal and public toasts were drank in +commemoration of the day. + +In the Governor's commission, the extent of this authority is defined +to reach from the latitude of 43 deg 49 min south, to the latitude of +10 deg 37 min south, being the northern and southern extremities of +the continent of New Holland. It commences again at 135th degree of +longitude east of Greenwich, and, proceeding in an easterly direction, +includes all islands within the limits of the above specified latitudes +in the Pacific Ocean. By this partition it may be fairly presumed, that +every source of future litigation between the Dutch and us will be +for ever cut off, as the discoveries of English navigators alone are +comprized in this territory. + +Nor have Government been more backward in arming Mr. Phillip with +plenitude of power, than extent of dominion. No mention is made of a +Council to be appointed, so that he is left to act entirely from his own +judgment. And as no stated time of assembling the Courts of justice is +pointed out, similar to the assizes and gaol deliveries of England, +the duration of imprisonment is altogether in his hands. The power of +summoning General Courts Martial to meet he is also invested with, but +the insertion in the marine mutiny act, of a smaller number of officers +than thirteen being able to compose such a tribunal, has been neglected: +so that a Military court, should detachments be made from headquarters, +or sickness prevail, may not always be found practicable to be obtained, +unless the number of officers, at present in the Settlement, shall be +increased. + +Should the Governor see cause, he is enabled to grant pardons to +offenders convicted, "in all cases whatever, treason and wilful murder +excepted," and even in these, has authority to stay the execution of +the law, until the King's pleasure shall be signified. In case of the +Governor's death, the Lieutenant Governor takes his place; and on his +demise, the senior officer on the spot is authorised to assume the reins +of power. + +Notwithstanding the promises made on one side, and the forbearance +shewn on the other, joined to the impending rod of justice, it was +with infinite regret that every one saw, in four clays afterwards, the +necessity of assembling a Criminal Court, which was accordingly convened +by warrant from the Governor, and consisted of the judge Advocate, who +presided, three naval, and three marine officers. + +As the constitution of this court is altogether new in the British +annals, I hope my reader will not think me prolix in the description +I am about to give of it. The number of members, including the judge +Advocate, is limited, by Act of Parliament, to seven, who are expressly +ordered to be officers, either of His Majesty's sea or land forces. The +court being met, completely arrayed and armed as at a military tribunal, +the Judge Advocate proceeds to administer the usual oaths taken by +jurymen in England to each member; one of whom afterwards swears him +in a like manner. This ceremony being adjusted, the crime laid to the +prisoner's charge is read to him, and the question of Guilty, or Not +guilty, put. No law officer on the side of the crown being appointed, +(for I presume the head of the court ought hardly to consider himself +in that light, notwithstanding the title he bears) to prosecute the +criminal is left entirely to the party, at whose suit he is tried. All +the witnesses are examined on oath, and the decision is directed to +be given according to the laws of England, "or as nearly as may be, +allowing for the circumstances and situation of the settlement," by a +majority of votes, beginning with the youngest member, and ending with +the president of the court. In cases, however, of a capital nature, +no verdict can be given, unless five, at least, of the seven members +present concur therein. The evidence on both sides being finished, +and the prisoner's defence heard, the court is cleared, and, on the +judgement being settled, is thrown open again, and sentence pronounced. +During the time the court sits, the place in which it is assembled is +directed to be surrounded by a guard under arms, and admission to every +one who may choose to enter it, granted. Of late, however, our colonists +are supposed to be in such a train of subordination, as to make the +presence of so large a military force unnecessary; and two centinels, in +addition to the Provost Martial, are considered as sufficient. + +It would be as needless, as impertinent, to anticipate the reflections +which will arise in reading the above account, wherein a regard to +accuracy only has been consulted. By comparing it with the mode of +administering justice in the English courts of law, it will be found to +differ in many points very essentially. And if we turn our eyes to +the usage of military tribunals, it no less departs from the customs +observed in them. Let not the novelty of it, however, prejudice any one +so far as to dispute its efficacy, and the necessity of the case which +gave it birth. + +The court, whose meeting is already spoken of, proceeded to the trial of +three convicts, one of whom was convicted of having struck a marine with +a cooper's adze, and otherwise behaving in a very riotous and scandalous +manner, for which he was sentenced to receive one hundred and fifty +lashes, being a smaller punishment than a soldier in a like case would +have suffered from the judgement of a court martial. A second, for +having committed a petty theft, was sent to a small barren island, +and kept there on bread and water only, for a week. And the third was +sentenced to receive fifty lashes, but was recommended by the court to +the Governor, and forgiven. + +Hitherto, however, (February) nothing of a very atrocious nature had +appeared. But the day was at hand, on which the violation of public +security could no longer be restrained, by the infliction of temporary +punishment. A set of desperate and hardened villains leagued themselves +for the purposes of depredation, and, as it generally happens, had art +enough to persuade some others, less deeply versed in iniquity, to be +the instruments for carrying it on. Fortunately the progress of these +miscreants was not of long duration. They were detected in stealing a +large quantity of provisions at the time of issuing them. And on being +apprehended, one of the tools of the superiors impeached the rest, and +disclosed the scheme. The trial came on the 28th of the month, and of +four who were arraigned for the offence, three were condemned to die, +and the fourth to receive a very severe corporal punishment. In hopes +that his lenity would not be abused, his Excellency was, however, +pleased to order one only for execution, which took place a little +before sun-set the same day. The name of the unhappy wretch was Thomas +Barret, an old and desperate offender, who died with that hardy spirit, +which too often is found in the worst and most abandoned class of men. +During the execution the battalion of marines was under arms, and the +whole of the convicts obliged to be present. The two associates of the +sufferer were ordered to be kept close prisoners, until an eligible +place to banish them to could be fixed on; as were also two more, who on +the following day were condemned to die for a similar offence. + +Besides the Criminal court, there is an inferior one composed of the +Judge Advocate, and one or more justices of the peace, for the trial of +small misdemeanours. This court is likewise empowered to decide all law +suits, and its verdict is final, except where the sum in dispute amounts +to more than three hundred pounds, in which case an appeal to England +can be made from its decree. Should necessity warrant it, an Admiralty +court, of which Lieutenant Governor Ross is judge, can also be summoned, +for the trial of offences committed on the high seas. + +From being unwilling to break the thread of my narrative, I omitted to +note in its proper place the sailing of the 'Supply', Lieut. Ball, +on the 15th of the month, for Norfolk Island, which the Governor had +instructions from the ministry to take possession of. Lieut. King of +the Sirius was sent as superintendent and commandant of this place, +and carried with him a surgeon, a midshipman, a sawyer, a weaver, two +marines, and sixteen convicts, of whom six were women. He was also +supplied with a certain number of live animals to stock the island, +besides garden seeds, grain, and other requisites. + + + + +CHAPTER XI + + +A Description of the Natives of New South Wales, and our Transactions +with them. + + +I doubt not my readers will be as glad as I feel myself, to conclude the +dull detail of the last chapter. If they please, they may turn from the +subtle intricacies of the law, to contemplate the simple, undisguised +workings of nature, in her most artless colouring. + +I have already said, we had been but very few days at Port Jackson, when +an alteration in the behaviour of the natives was perceptible; and I +wish I could add, that a longer residence in their neighbourhood had +introduced a greater degree of cordiality and intermixture between +the old, and new, lords of the soil, than at the day on which this +publication is dated subsists. + +From their easy reception of us in the beginning, many were induced to +call in question the accounts which Mr. Cook had given of this people. +That celebrated navigator, we were willing believe, had somehow by +his conduct offended them, which prevented the intercourse that would +otherwise have taken place. The result, however, of our repeated +endeavours to induce them to come among us has been such as to confirm +me in an opinion, that they either fear or despise us too much, to be +anxious for a closer connection. And I beg leave at once, to apprize the +reader, that all I can here, or in any future part of this work, relate +with fidelity of the natives of New South Wales, must be made up of +detached observations, taken at different times, and not from a regular +series of knowledge of the customs and manners of a people, with whom +opportunities of communication are so scarce, as to have been seldom +obtained. + +In their persons, they are far from being a stout race of men, though +nimble, sprightly, and vigorous. The deficiency of one of the fore teeth +of the upper jaw, mentioned by Dampier, we have seen in almost the whole +of the men; but their organs of sight so far from being defective, as +that author mentions those of the inhabitants of the western side of the +continent to be, are remarkably quick and piercing. Their colour, Mr. +Cook is inclined to think rather a deep chocolate, than an absolute +black, though he confesses, they have the appearance of the latter, +which he attributes to the greasy filth their skins are loaded with. +Of their want of cleanliness we have had sufficient proofs, but I am of +opinion, all the washing in the world would not render them two degrees +less black than an African negro. At some of our first interviews, we +had several droll instances of their mistaking the Africans we brought +with us for their own countrymen. + +Notwithstanding the disregard they have invariably shewn for all the +finery we could deck them with, they are fond of adorning themselves +with scars, which increase their natural hideousness. It is hardly +possible to see any thing in human shape more ugly, than one of these +savages thus scarified, and farther ornamented with a fish bone struck +through the gristle of the nose. The custom of daubing themselves +with white earth is also frequent among both sexes: but, unlike the +inhabitants of the Islands in the Pacific Ocean, they reject the +beautiful feathers which the birds of their country afford. + +Exclusive of their weapons of offence, and a few stone hatchets very +rudely fashioned, their ingenuity is confined to manufacturing small +nets, in which they put the fish they catch, and to fish-hooks made of +bone, neither of which are unskilfully executed. On many of the rocks +are also to be found delineations of the figures of men and birds, very +poorly cut. + +Of the use or benefit of cloathing, these people appear to have no +comprehension, though their sufferings from the climate they live in, +strongly point out the necessity of a covering from the rigour of the +seasons. Both sexes, and those of all ages, are invariably found naked. +But it must not be inferred from this, that custom so inures them to +the changes of the elements, as to make them bear with indifference the +extremes of heat and cold; for we have had visible and repeated proofs, +that the latter affects them severely, when they are seen shivering, +and huddling themselves up in heaps in their huts, or the caverns of the +rocks, until a fire can be kindled. + +Than these huts nothing more rude in construction, or deficient in +conveniency, can be imagined. They consist only of pieces of bark laid +together in the form of an oven, open at one end, and very low, though +long enough for a man to lie at full length. There is reason, however, +to believe, that they depend less on them for shelter, than on the +caverns with which the rocks abound. + +To cultivation of the ground they are utter strangers, and wholly depend +for food on the few fruits they gather; the roots they dig up in the +swamps; and the fish they pick up along shore, or contrive to strike +from their canoes with spears. Fishing, indeed, seems to engross nearly +the whole of their time, probably from its forming the chief part of a +subsistence, which, observation has convinced us, nothing short of the +most painful labour, and unwearied assiduity, can procure. When fish +are scarce, which frequently happens, they often watch the moment of +our hauling the seine, and have more than once been known to plunder its +contents, in spite of the opposition of those on the spot to guard it: +and this even after having received a part of what had been caught. The +only resource at these times is to shew a musquet, and if the bare sight +is not sufficient, to fire it over their heads, which has seldom failed +of dispersing them hitherto, but how long the terror which it excites +may continue is doubtful. + +The canoes in which they fish are as despicable as their huts, being +nothing more than a large piece of bark tied up at both ends with vines. +Their dexterous management of them, added to the swiftness with which +they paddle, and the boldness that leads them several miles in the +open sea, are, nevertheless, highly deserving of admiration. A canoe +is seldom seen without a fire in it, to dress the fish by, as soon as +caught: fire they procure by attrition. + +From their manner of disposing of those who die, which will be mentioned +hereafter, as well as from every other observation, there seems no +reason to suppose these people cannibals; nor do they ever eat animal +substances in a raw state, unless pressed by extreme hunger, but +indiscriminately broil them, and their vegetables, on a fire, which +renders these last an innocent food, though in their raw state many of +them are of a poisonous quality: as a poor convict who unguardedly +eat of them experienced, by falling a sacrifice in twenty-four hours +afterwards. If bread be given to the Indians, they chew and spit it +out again, seldom choosing to swallow it. Salt beef and pork they like +rather better, but spirits they never could be brought to taste a second +time. + +The only domestic animal they have is the dog, which in their language +is called Dingo, and a good deal resembles the fox dog of England. These +animals are equally shy of us, and attached to the natives. One of them +is now in the possession of the Governor, and tolerably well reconciled +to his new master. As the Indians see the dislike of the dogs to us, +they are sometimes mischievous enough to set them on single persons +whom they chance to meet in the woods. A surly fellow was one day out +shooting, when the natives attempted to divert themselves in this manner +at his expense. The man bore the teazing and gnawing of the dog at his +heels for some time, but apprehending at length, that his patience might +embolden them to use still farther liberties, he turned round and shot +poor Dingo dead on the spot: the owners of him set off with the utmost +expedition. + +There is no part of the behaviour of these people, that has puzzled us +more, than that which relates to their women. Comparatively speaking we +have seen but few of them, and those have been sometimes kept back with +every symptom of jealous sensibility; and sometimes offered with every +appearance of courteous familiarity. Cautious, however, of alarming the +feelings of the men on so tender a point, we have constantly made a rule +of treating the females with that distance and reserve, which we judged +most likely to remove any impression they might have received of our +intending aught, which could give offence on so delicate a subject. And +so successful have our endeavours been, that a quarrel on this head +has in no instance, that I know of, happened. The tone of voice of the +women, which is pleasingly soft and feminine, forms a striking contrast +to the rough guttural pronunciation of the men. Of the other charms +of the ladies I shall be silent, though justice obliges me to mention, +that, in the opinion of some amongst us, they shew a degree of timidity +and bashfulness, which are, perhaps, inseparable from the female +character in its rudest state. It is not a little singular, that the +custom of cutting off the two lower joints of the little finger of the +left hand, observed in the Society Islands, is found here among the +women, who have for the most part undergone this amputation. Hitherto +we have not been able to trace out the cause of this usage. At first we +supposed it to be peculiar to the married women, or those who had borne +children; but this conclusion must have been erroneous, as we have no +right to believe that celibacy prevails in any instance, and some of the +oldest of the women are without this distinction; and girls of a very +tender age are marked by it. + +On first setting foot in the country, we were inclined to hold the +spears of the natives very cheap. Fatal experience has, however, +convinced us, that the wound inflicted by this weapon is not a trivial +one; and that the skill of the Indians in throwing it, is far from +despicable. Besides more than a dozen convicts who have unaccountably +disappeared, we know that two, who were employed as rush cutters up +the harbour, were (from what cause we are yet ignorant) most dreadfully +mangled and butchered by the natives. A spear had passed entirely +through the thickest part of the body of one of them, though a very +robust man, and the skull of the other was beaten in. Their tools were +taken away, but some provisions which they had with them at the time of +the murder, and their cloaths, were left untouched. In addition to this +misfortune, two more convicts, who were peaceably engaged in picking of +greens, on a spot very remote from that where their comrades suffered, +were unawares attacked by a party of Indians, and before they could +effect their escape, one of them was pierced by a spear in the hip, +after which they knocked him down, and plundered his cloaths. The poor +wretch, though dreadfully wounded, made shift to crawl off, but his +companion was carried away by these barbarians, and his fate doubtful, +until a soldier, a few days afterwards, picked up his jacket and hat +in a native's hut, the latter pierced through by a spear. We have found +that these spears are not made invariably alike, some of them being +barbed like a fish gig, and others simply pointed. In repairing them +they are no less dexterous than in throwing them. A broken one +being given by a gentleman to an Indian, he instantly snatched up an +oyster-shell, and converted it with his teeth into a tool with which +he presently fashioned the spear, and rendered it fit for use: in +performing this operation, the sole of his foot served him as a +work-board. Nor are their weapons of offence confined to the spear only, +for they have besides long wooden swords, shaped like a sabre, capable +of inflicting a mortal wound, and clubs of an immense size. Small +targets, made of the bark of trees, are likewise now and then to be seen +among them. + +From circumstances which have been observed, we have sometimes been +inclined to believe these people at war with each other. They have more +than once been seen assembled, as if bent on an expedition. An officer +one day met fourteen of them marching along in a regular Indian file +through the woods, each man armed with a spear in his right hand, and +a large stone in his left: at their head appeared a chief, who was +distinguished by being painted. Though in the proportion of five to one +of our people they passed peaceably on. + +That their skill in throwing the spear sometimes enables them to kill +the kangaroo we have no right to doubt, as a long splinter of this +weapon was taken out of the thigh of one of these animals, over which +the flesh had completely closed; but we have never discovered that they +have any method of ensnaring them, or that they know any other beasts +but the kangaroo and dog. Whatever animal is shewn them, a dog excepted, +they call kangaroo: a strong presumption that the wild animals of the +country are very few. + +Soon after our arrival at Port Jackson, I was walking out near a place +where I observed a party of Indians, busily employed in looking at some +sheep in an inclosure, and repeatedly crying out, 'kangaroo, kangaroo!' +As this seemed to afford them pleasure, I was willing to increase it by +pointing out the horses and cows, which were at no great distance. But +unluckily, at the moment, some female convicts, employed near the place, +made their appearance, and all my endeavours to divert their attention +from the ladies became fruitless. They attempted not, however, to offer +them the least degree of violence or injury, but stood at the distance +of several paces, expressing very significantly the manner they were +attracted. + +It would be trespassing on the reader's indulgence were I to impose +on him an account of any civil regulations, or ordinances, which may +possibly exist among this people. I declare to him, that I know not of +any, and that excepting a little tributary respect which the younger +part appear to pay those more advanced in years, I never could observe +any degrees of subordination among them. To their religious rites and +opinions I am equally a stranger. Had an opportunity offered of seeing +the ceremonies observed at disposing of the dead, perhaps, some insight +might have been gained; but all that we at present know with certainty +is, that they burn the corpse, and afterwards heap up the earth around +it, somewhat in the manner of the small tumuli, found in many counties +of England. + +I have already hinted, that the country is more populous than it was +generally believed to be in Europe at the time of our sailing. But +this remark is not meant to be extended to the interior parts of the +continent, which there is every reason to conclude from our researches, +as well as from the manner of living practised by the natives, to be +uninhabited. It appears as if some of the Indian families confine their +society and connections within their own pale: but that this cannot +always be the case we know; for on the north-west arm of Botany Bay +stands a village, which contains more than a dozen houses, and +perhaps five times that number of people; being the most considerable +establishment that we are acquainted with in the country. As a striking +proof, besides, of the numerousness of the natives, I beg leave to +state, that Governor Phillip, when on an excursion between the head of +this harbour and that of Botany Bay, once fell in with a party which +consisted of more than three hundred persons, two hundred and twelve of +whom were men: this happened only on the day following the murder of the +two convict rush cutters, before noticed, and his Excellency was at +the very time in search of the murderers, on whom, could they have been +found, he intended to inflict a memorable and exemplary punishment. The +meeting was unexpected to both parties, and considering the critical +situation of affairs, perhaps not very pleasing to our side, which +consisted but of twelve persons, until the peaceable disposition of +the Indians was manifest. After the strictest search the Governor was +obliged to return without having gained any information. The laudable +perseverance of his Excellency to throw every light on this unhappy and +mysterious business did not, however stop here, for he instituted the +most rigorous inquiry to find out, if possible, whether the convicts +had at any time ill treated or killed any of the natives; and farther, +issued a proclamation, offering the most tempting of all rewards, a +state of freedom, to him who should point out the murderer, in case such +an one existed. + +I have thus impartially stated the situation of matters, as they stand, +while I write, between the natives and us; that greater progress in +attaching them to us has not been made, I have only to regret; but that +all ranks of men have tried to effect it, by every reasonable effort +from which success might have been expected, I can testify; nor can +I omit saying, that in the higher stations this has been eminently +conspicuous. The public orders of Governor Phillip have invariably +tended to promote such a behaviour on our side, as was most likely +to produce this much wished-for event. To what cause then are we to +attribute the distance which the accomplishment of it appears at? I +answer, to the fickle, jealous, wavering disposition of the people we +have to deal with, who, like all other savages, are either too indolent, +too indifferent, or too fearful to form an attachment on easy terms, +with those who differ in habits and manners so widely from themselves. +Before I close the subject, I cannot, however, omit to relate the +following ludicrous adventure, which possibly may be of greater use in +effecting what we have so much at heart, than all our endeavours. + +Some young gentlemen belonging to the Sirius one day met a native, an +old man, in the woods; he had a beard of considerable length, which his +new acquaintance gave him to understand, by signals, they would rid him +of, if he pleased; stroaking their chins, and shewing him the smoothness +of them at the same time; at length the old Indian consented, and one of +the youngsters taking a penknife from his pocket, and making use of the +best substitute for lather he could find, performed the operation with +great success, and, as it proved, much to the liking of the old man, who +in a few days after reposed a confidence in us, of which we had hitherto +known no example, by paddling along-side the Sirius in his canoe, and +pointing to his beard. Various arts were ineffectually tried to induce +him to enter the ship; but as he continued to decline the invitation, +a barber was sent down into the boat along-side the canoe, from whence, +leaning over the gunnel, he complied with the wish of the old beau, to +his infinite satisfaction. In addition to the consequences which our +sanguine hopes led us to expect from this dawning of cordiality, it +affords proof, that the beard is considered by this people more as an +incumbrance than a mark of dignity. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + + +The Departure of the French from Botany Bay; and the Return of the +'Supply' from Norfolk Island; with a Discovery made by Lieutenant Ball +on his Passage to it. + + +About the middle of the month our good friends the French departed from +Botany Bay, in prosecution of their voyage. During their stay in that +port, the officers of the two nations had frequent opportunities of +testifying their mutual regard by visits, and every interchange of +friendship and esteem. These ships sailed from France, by order of +the King, on the 1st of August, 1785, under the command of Monsieur +De Perrouse, an officer whose eminent qualifications, we had reason +to think, entitle him to fill the highest stations. In England, +particularly, he ought long to be remembered with admiration and +gratitude, for the humanity which marked his conduct, when ordered to +destroy our settlement at Hudson's Bay, in the last war. His second +in command was the Chevalier Clonard, an officer also of distinguished +merit. + +In the course of the voyage these ships had been so unfortunate as +to lose a boat, with many men and officers in her, off the west of +California; and afterwards met with an accident still more to be +regretted, at an island in the Pacific Ocean, discovered by Monsieur +Bougainville, in the latitude of 14 deg 19 min south, longitude 173 deg +3 min 20 sec east of Paris. Here they had the misfortune to have no less +than thirteen of their crews, among whom was the officer at that time +second in command, cut off by the natives, and many more desperately +wounded. To what cause this cruel event was to be attributed, they knew +not, as they were about to quit the island after having lived with the +Indians in the greatest harmony for several weeks; and exchanged, during +the time, their European commodities for the produce of the place, which +they describe as filled with a race of people remarkable for beauty and +comeliness; and abounding in refreshments of all kinds. + +It was no less gratifying to an English ear, than honourable to Monsieur +De Perrouse, to witness the feeling manner in which he always mentioned +the name and talents of Captain Cook. That illustrious circumnavigator +had, he said, left nothing to those who might follow in his track to +describe, or fill up. As I found, in the course of conversation, that +the French ships had touched at the Sandwich Islands, I asked M. De +Perrouse what reception he had met with there. His answer deserves to be +known: "During the whole of our voyage in the South Seas, the people of +the Sandwich Islands were the only Indians who never gave us cause of +complaint. They furnished us liberally with provisions, and administered +cheerfully to all our wants." It may not be improper to remark, that +Owhyee was not one of the islands visited by this gentleman. + +In the short stay made by these ships at Botany Bay, an Abbe, one of +the naturalists on board, died, and was buried on the north shore. The +French had hardly departed, when the natives pulled down a small board, +which had been placed over the spot where the corpse was interred, and +defaced everything around. On being informed of it, the Governor sent +a party over with orders to affix a plate of copper on a tree near the +place, with the following inscription on it, which is a copy of what was +written on the board: + + Hic jacet L. RECEVEUR, + E.F.F. minnibus Galliae, Sacerdos, Physicus, in + circumnavigatione mundi, Duce De La Perrouse. + Obiit die 17 Februarii, anno 1788. + +This mark of respectful attention was more particularly due, from M. De +Perrouse having, when at Kamschatka, paid a similar tribute of gratitude +to the memory of Captain Clarke, whose tomb was found in nearly as +ruinous a state as that of the Abbe. + +Like ourselves, the French found it necessary, more than once, to +chastise a spirit of rapine and intrusion which prevailed among the +Indians around the Bay. The menace of pointing a musquet to them was +frequently used; and in one or two instances it was fired off, though +without being attended with fatal consequences. Indeed the French +commandant, both from a regard to the orders of his Court as well as to +our quiet and security, shewed a moderation and forbearance on this head +highly becoming. + +On the 20th of March, the 'Supply' arrived from Norfolk Island, after +having safely landed Lieutenant King and his little garrison. The +pine-trees growing there are described to be of a growth and height +superior, perhaps, to any in the world. But the difficulty of bringing +them away will not be easily surmounted, from the badness and danger of +the landing place. After the most exact search not a single plant of the +New Zealand flax could be found, though we had been taught to believe it +abounded there. + +Lieutenant Ball, in returning to Port Jackson, touched at a small +island in latitude 31 deg 36 min south, longitude 159 deg 4 min east of +Greenwich, which he had been fortunate enough to discover on his passage +to Norfolk, and to which he gave the name of Lord Howe's Island. It +is entirely without inhabitants, or any traces of any having ever been +there. But it happily abounds in what will be infinitely more important +to the settlers on New South Wales: green turtle of the finest kind +frequent it in the summer season. Of this Mr. Ball gave us some very +handsome and acceptable specimens on his return. Besides turtle, the +island is well stocked with birds, many of them so tame as to be knocked +down by the seamen with sticks. At the distance of four leagues from +Lord Howe Island, and in latitude 31 deg 30 min south, longitude 159 deg +8 min east, stands a remarkable rock, of considerable height, to which +Mr. Ball gave the name of Ball's Pyramid, from the shape it bears. + +While the 'Supply' was absent, Governor Phillip made an excursion to +Broken Bay, a few leagues to the northward of Port Jackson, in order to +explore it. As a harbour it almost equals the latter, but the adjacent +country was found so rocky and bare, as to preclude all possibility of +turning it to account. Some rivulets of fresh water fall into the head +of the Bay, forming a very picturesque scene. The Indians who live +on its banks are numerous, and behaved attentively in a variety of +instances while our people remained among them. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + + + +Transactions at Port Jackson in the Months of April and May. + + +As winter was fast approaching, it became necessary to secure ourselves +in quarters, which might shield us from the cold we were taught to +expect in this hemisphere, though in so low a latitude. The erection +of barracks for the soldiers was projected, and the private men of +each company undertook to build for themselves two wooden houses, of +sixty-eight feet in length, and twenty-three in breadth. To forward the +design, several saw-pits were immediately set to work, and four ship +carpenters attached to the battalion, for the purpose of directing and +completing this necessary undertaking. In prosecuting it, however, +so many difficulties occurred, that we were fain to circumscribe our +original intention; and, instead of eight houses, content ourselves with +four. And even these, from the badness of the timber, the scarcity of +artificers, and other impediments, are, at the day on which I write, so +little advanced, that it will be well, if at the close of the year 1788, +we shall be established in them. In the meanwhile the married people, +by proceeding on a more contracted scale, were soon under comfortable +shelter. Nor were the convicts forgotten; and as leisure was frequently +afforded them for the purpose, little edifices quickly multiplied on the +ground allotted them to build upon. + +But as these habitations were intended by Governor Phillip to answer +only the exigency of the moment, the plan of the town was drawn, and the +ground on which it is hereafter to stand surveyed, and marked out. +To proceed on a narrow, confined scale, in a country of the extensive +limits we possess, would be unpardonable: extent of empire demands +grandeur of design. That this has been our view will be readily +believed, when I tell the reader, that the principal street in our +projected city will be, when completed, agreeable to the plan laid +down, two hundred feet in breadth, and all the rest of a corresponding +proportion. How far this will be accompanied with adequate dispatch, is +another question, as the incredulous among us are sometimes hardy enough +to declare, that ten times our strength would not be able to finish it +in as many years. + +Invariably intent on exploring a country, from which curiosity promises +so many gratifications, his Excellency about this time undertook an +expedition into the interior parts of the continent. His party consisted +of eleven persons, who, after being conveyed by water to the head of +the harbour, proceeded in a westerly direction, to reach a chain of +mountains, which in clear weather are discernible, though at an immense +distance, from some heights near our encampment. With unwearied industry +they continued to penetrate the country for four days; but at the end of +that time, finding the base of the mountain to be yet at the distance +of more than twenty miles, and provisions growing scarce, it was judged +prudent to return, without having accomplished the end for which the +expedition had been undertaken. To reward their toils, our adventurers +had, however, the pleasure of discovering and traversing an extensive +tract of ground, which they had reason to believe, from the observations +they were enabled to make, capable of producing every thing, which +a happy soil and genial climate can bring forth. In addition to this +flattering appearance, the face of the country is such, as to +promise success whenever it shall be cultivated, the trees being at +a considerable distance from each other, and the intermediate space +filled, not with underwood, but a thick rich grass, growing in the +utmost luxuriancy. I must not, however, conceal, that in this long +march, our gentlemen found not a single rivulet, but were under a +necessity of supplying themselves with water from standing pools, which +they met with in the vallies, supposed to be formed by the rains that +fall at particular seasons of the year. Nor had they the good fortune to +see any quadrupeds worth notice, except a few kangaroos. To their great +surprize, they observed indisputable tracks of the natives having been +lately there, though in their whole route none of them were to be seen; +nor any means to be traced, by which they could procure subsistence so +far from the sea shore. + +On the 6th of May the 'Supply' sailed for Lord Howe Island, to take on +board turtle for the settlement; but after waiting there several days +was obliged to return without having seen one, owing we apprehended to +the advanced season of the year. Three of the transports also, which +were engaged by the East India Company to proceed to China, to take on +board a lading of tea, sailed about this time for Canton. + +The unsuccessful return of the 'Supply' cast a general damp on our +spirits, for by this time fresh provisions were become scarcer than in +a blockaded town. The little live stock, which with so heavy an expense, +and through so many difficulties, we had brought on shore, prudence +forbade us to use; and fish, which on our arrival, and for a short time +after had been tolerable plenty, were become so scarce, as to be rarely +seen at the tables of the first among us. Had it not been for a stray +kangaroo, which fortune now and then threw in our way, we should have +been utter strangers to the taste of fresh food. + +Thus situated, the scurvy began its usual ravages, and extended its +baneful influence, more or less, through all descriptions of persons. +Unfortunately the esculent vegetable productions of the country are +neither plentiful, nor tend very effectually to remove this disease. +And, the ground we had turned up and planted with garden seeds, either +from the nature of the soil, or, which is more probable, the lateness +of the season, yielded but a scanty and insufficient supply of what we +stood so greatly in need of. + +During the period I am describing, few enormous offences were +perpetrated by the convicts. A petty theft was now and then heard +of, and a spirit of refractory sullenness broke out at times in some +individuals: one execution only, however, took place. The sufferer, who +was a very young man, was convicted of a burglary, and met his fate with +a hardiness and insensibility, which the grossest ignorance, and most +deplorable want of feeling, alone could supply. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + + + +From the Beginning of June, to the Departure of the Ships for Europe. + + +Hours of festivity, which under happier skies pass away unregarded, +and are soon consigned to oblivion, acquire in this forlorn and distant +circle a superior degree of acceptable importance. + +On the anniversary of the King's birthday all the officers not on duty, +both of the garrison and his Majesty's ships, dined with the Governor. +On so joyful an occasion, the first too ever celebrated in our new +settlement, it were needless to say, that loyal conviviality dictated +every sentiment, and inspired every guest. Among other public toasts +drank, was, Prosperity to Sydney Cove, in Cumberland county, now named +so by authority. At day-light in the morning the ships of war had fired +twenty-one guns each, which was repeated at noon, and answered by three +vollies from the battalion of marines. + +Nor were the officers alone partakers of the general relaxation. The +four unhappy wretches labouring under sentence of banishment were freed +from their fetters, to rejoin their former society; and three days given +as holidays to every convict in the colony. Hospitality too, which ever +acquires a double relish by being extended, was not forgotten on the 4th +of June, when each prisoner, male and female, received an allowance of +grog; and every non-commissioned officer and private soldier had the +honor of drinking prosperity to his royal master, in a pint of porter, +served out at the flag staff, in addition to the customary allowance +of spirits. Bonfires concluded the evening, and I am happy to say, that +excepting a single instance which shall be taken notice of hereafter, no +bad consequence, or unpleasant remembrance, flowed from an indulgence so +amply bestowed. + +About this time (June) an accident happened, which I record with much +regret. The whole of our black cattle, consisting of five cows and a +bull, either from not being properly secured, or from the negligence +of those appointed to take care of them, strayed into the woods, and in +spite of all the search we have been able to make, are not yet found. +As a convict of the name of Corbet, who was accused of a theft, eloped +nearly at the same time, it was at first believed, that he had taken the +desperate measure of driving off the cattle, in order to subsist on them +as long as possible; or perhaps to deliver them to the natives. In this +uncertainty, parties to search were sent out in different directions; +and the fugitive declared an outlaw, in case of not returning by a fixed +day. After much anxiety and fatigue, those who had undertaken the task +returned without finding the cattle. But on the 21st of the month, +Corbet made his appearance near a farm belonging to the Governor, and +entreated a convict, who happened to be on the spot, to give him some +food, as he was perishing for hunger. The man applied to, under pretence +of fetching what he asked for, went away and immediately gave the +necessary information, in consequence of which a party under arms was +sent out and apprehended him. When the poor wretch was brought in, he +was greatly emaciated and almost famished. But on proper restoratives +being administered, he was so far recovered by the 24th, as to be able +to stand his trial, when he pleaded Guilty to the robbery with which he +stood charged, and received sentence of death. In the course of repeated +examinations it plainly appeared, he was an utter stranger to the place +where the cattle might be, and was in no shape concerned in having +driven them off. + +Samuel Peyton, convict, for having on the evening of the King's +birth-day broke open an officer's marquee, with an intent to commit +robbery, of which he was fully convicted, had sentence of death passed +on him at the same time as Corbet; and on the following day they were +both executed, confessing the justness of their fate, and imploring the +forgiveness of those whom they had injured. Peyton, at the time of his +suffering, was but twenty years of age, the greatest part of which +had been invariably passed in the commission of crimes, that at length +terminated in his ignominious end. The following letter, written by a +fellow convict to the sufferer's unhappy mother, I shall make no apology +for presenting to the reader; it affords a melancholy proof, that +not the ignorant and untaught only have provoked the justice of their +country to banish them to this remote region. + + +Sydney Cove, Port Jackson, + +New South Wales, 24th June, 1788. + +"My dear and honoured mother! + +"With a heart oppressed by the keenest sense of anguish, and too much +agitated by the idea of my very melancholy condition, to express my own +sentiments, I have prevailed on the goodness of a commiserating friend, +to do me the last sad office of acquainting you with the dreadful fate +that awaits me. + +"My dear mother! with what agony of soul do I dedicate the few +last moments of my life, to bid you an eternal adieu! my doom being +irrevocably fixed, and ere this hour to-morrow I shall have quitted this +vale of wretchedness, to enter into an unknown and endless eternity. I +will not distress your tender maternal feelings by any long comment on +the cause of my present misfortune. Let it therefore suffice to say, +that impelled by that strong propensity to evil, which neither the +virtuous precepts nor example of the best of parents could eradicate, I +have at length fallen an unhappy, though just, victim to my own follies. + +"Too late I regret my inattention to your admonitions, and feel myself +sensibly affected by the remembrance of the many anxious moments you +have passed on my account. For these, and all my other transgressions, +however great, I supplicate the Divine forgiveness; and encouraged by +the promises of that Saviour who died for us all, I trust to receive +that mercy in the world to come, which my offences have deprived me of +all hope, or expectation of, in this. The affliction which this will +cost you, I hope the Almighty will enable you to bear. Banish from your +memory all my former indiscretions, and let the cheering hope of a happy +meeting hereafter, console you for my loss. Sincerely penitent for my +sins; sensible of the justice of my conviction and sentence, and firmly +relying on the merits of a Blessed Redeemer, I am at perfect peace with +all mankind, and trust I shall yet experience that peace, which this +world cannot give. Commend my soul to the Divine mercy. I bid you an +eternal farewell. + +"Your unhappy dying Son, + +"SAMUEL PEYTON." + + +After this nothing occurred with which I think it necessary to trouble +the reader. The contents of the following chapters could not, I +conceive, be so properly interwoven in the body of the work; I have, +therefore, assigned them a place by themselves, with a view that the +conclusions adopted in them may be more strongly enforced on the minds +of those, to whom they are more particularly addressed. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + + + +The Face of the Country; its Productions, Climate, &c. + + +To the geographical knowledge of this country, supplied by Captain Cook, +and Captain Furneaux, we are able to add nothing. The latter explored +the coast from Van Diemen's land to the latitude of 39 deg south; +and Cook from Point Hicks, which lies in 37 deg 58 min, to Endeavour +Streights. The intermediate space between the end of Furneaux's +discovery and Point Hicks, is, therefore, the only part of the +south-east coast unknown, and it so happened on our passage thither, +owing to the weather, which forbade any part of the ships engaging with +the shore, that we are unable to pronounce whether, or not, a streight +intersects the continent hereabouts: though I beg leave to say, that I +have been informed by a naval friend, that when the fleet was off this +part of the coast, a strong set-off shore was plainly felt. + +At the distance of 60 miles inland, a prodigious chain of lofty +mountains runs nearly in a north and south direction, further than the +eye can trace them. Should nothing intervene to prevent it, the Governor +intends, shortly, to explore their summits: and, I think there can be +little doubt, that his curiosity will not go unrewarded. If large rivers +do exist in the country, which some of us are almost sceptical enough +to doubt, their sources must arise amidst these hills; and the direction +they run in, for a considerable distance, must be either due north, or +due south. For it is strikingly singular that three such noble harbours +as Botany Bay, Port Jackson, and Broken Bay, alike end in shallows and +swamps, filled with mangroves. + +The general face of the country is certainly pleasing, being diversified +with gentle ascents, and little winding vallies, covered for the most +part with large spreading trees, which afford a succession of leaves +in all seasons. In those places where trees are scarce, a variety of +flowering shrubs abound, most of them entirely new to an European, +and surpassing in beauty, fragrance, and number, all I ever saw in an +uncultivated state: among these, a tall shrub, bearing an elegant white +flower, which smells like English May, is particularly delightful, and +perfumes the air around to a great distance. The species of trees are +few, and, I am concerned to add, the wood universally of so bad a grain, +as almost to preclude a possibility of using it: the increase of labour +occasioned by this in our buildings has been such, as nearly to exceed +belief. These trees yield a profusion of thick red gum (not unlike the +'sanguis draconis') which is found serviceable in medicine, particularly +in dysenteric complaints, where it has sometimes succeeded, when all +other preparations have failed. To blunt its acrid qualities, it is +usual to combine it with opiates. + +The nature of the soil is various. That immediately round Sydney Cove is +sandy, with here and there a stratum of clay. From the sand we have yet +been able to draw very little; but there seems no reason to doubt, that +many large tracts of land around us will bring to perfection whatever +shall be sown in them. To give this matter a fair trial, some practical +farmers capable of such an undertaking should be sent out; for the spots +we have chosen for experiments in agriculture, in which we can scarce +be supposed adepts, have hitherto but ill repaid our toil, which may be +imputable to our having chosen such as are unfavourable for our purpose. + +Except from the size of the trees, the difficulties of clearing the land +are not numerous, underwood being rarely found, though the country +is not absolutely without it. Of the natural meadows which Mr. Cook +mentions near Botany Bay, we can give no account; none such exist about +Port Jackson. Grass, however, grows in every place but the swamps with +the greatest vigour and luxuriancy, though it is not of the finest +quality, and is found to agree better with horses and cows than sheep. A +few wild fruits are sometimes procured, among which is the small purple +apple mentioned by Cook, and a fruit which has the appearance of a +grape, though in taste more like a green gooseberry, being excessively +sour: probably were it meliorated by cultivation, it would become more +palatable. + +Fresh water, as I have said before, is found but in inconsiderable +quantities. For the common purposes of life there is generally enough; +but we know of no stream in the country capable of turning a mill: and +the remark made by Mr. Anderson, of the dryness of the country round +Adventure Bay, extends without exception to every part of it which we +have penetrated. + +Previous to leaving England I remember to have frequently heard it +asserted, that the discovery of mines was one of the secondary objects +of the expedition. Perhaps there are mines; but as no person competent +to form a decision is to be found among us, I wish no one to adopt an +idea, that I mean to impress him with such a belief, when I state, that +individuals, whose judgements are not despicable, are willing to think +favourably of this conjecture, from specimens of ore seen in many of the +stones picked up here. I cannot quit this subject without regretting, +that some one capable of throwing a better light on it, is not in the +colony. Nor can I help being equally concerned, that an experienced +botanist was not sent out, for the purpose of collecting and describing +the rare and beautiful plants with which the country abounds. Indeed, +we flattered ourselves, when at the Cape of Good Hope, that Mason, the +King's botanical gardener, who was employed there in collecting for the +royal nursery at Kew, would have joined us, but it seems his orders and +engagements prevented him from quitting that beaten track, to enter on +this scene of novelty and variety. + +To the naturalist this country holds out many invitations. Birds, though +not remarkably numerous, are in great variety, and of the most exquisite +beauty of plumage, among which are the cockatoo, lory, and parroquet; +but the bird which principally claims attention is, a species of +ostrich, approaching nearer to the emu of South America than any other +we know of. One of them was shot, at a considerable distance, with a +single ball, by a convict employed for that purpose by the Governor; its +weight, when complete, was seventy pounds, and its length from the end +of the toe to the tip of the beak, seven feet two inches, though there +was reason to believe it had not attained its full growth. On dissection +many anatomical singularities were observed: the gall-bladder was +remarkably large, the liver not bigger than that of a barn-door fowl, +and after the strictest search no gizzard could be found; the legs, +which were of a vast length, were covered with thick, strong scales, +plainly indicating the animal to be formed for living amidst deserts; +and the foot differed from an ostrich's by forming a triangle, instead +of being cloven. + +Goldsmith, whose account of the emu is the only one I can refer to, +says, "that it is covered from the back and rump with long feathers, +which fall backward, and cover the anus; these feathers are grey on +the back, and white on the belly." The wings are so small as hardly to +deserve the name, and are unfurnished with those beautiful ornaments +which adorn the wings of the ostrich: all the feathers are extremely +coarse, but the construction of them deserves notice--they grow in pairs +from a single shaft, a singularity which the author I have quoted has +omitted to remark. It may be presumed, that these birds are not very +scarce, as several have been seen, some of them immensely large, but +they are so wild, as to make shooting them a matter of great difficulty. +Though incapable of flying, they run with such swiftness, that our +fleetest greyhounds are left far behind in every attempt to catch them. +The flesh was eaten, and tasted like beef. + +Besides the emu, many birds of prodigious size have been seen, which +promise to increase the number of those described by naturalists, +whenever we shall be fortunate enough to obtain them; but among these +the bat of the Endeavour River is not to be found. In the woods are +various little songsters, whose notes are equally sweet and plaintive. + +Of quadrupeds, except the kangaroo, I have little to say. The few met +with are almost invariably of the opossum tribe, but even these do not +abound. To beasts of prey we are utter strangers, nor have we yet any +cause to believe that they exist in the country. And happy it is for us +that they do not, as their presence would deprive us of the only fresh +meals the settlement affords, the flesh of the kangaroo. This singular +animal is already known in Europe by the drawing and description of Mr. +Cook. To the drawing nothing can be objected but the position of the +claws of the hinder leg, which are mixed together like those of a +dog, whereas no such indistinctness is to be found in the animal I am +describing. It was the Chevalier De Perrouse who pointed out this to me, +while we were comparing a kangaroo with the plate, which, as he justly +observed, is correct enough to give the world in general a good idea of +the animal, but not sufficiently accurate for the man of science. + +Of the natural history of the kangaroo we are still very ignorant. +We may, however, venture to pronounce this animal, a new species of +opossum, the female being furnished with a bag, in which the young is +contained; and in which the teats are found. These last are only two in +number, a strong presumptive proof, had we no other evidence, that +the kangaroo brings forth rarely more than one at a birth. But this +is settled beyond a doubt, from more than a dozen females having +been killed, which had invariably but one formed in the pouch. +Notwithstanding this, the animal may be looked on as prolific, from the +early age it begins to breed at, kangaroos with young having been taken +of not more than thirty pounds weight; and there is room to believe that +when at their utmost growth, they weigh not less than one hundred and +fifty pounds. A male of one hundred and thirty pounds weight has been +killed, whose dimensions were as follows: + + ------------------------------------------------------------------ + Feet. Inches. + Extreme length 7 3 + Ditt of the tail 3 4 1/2 + Ditto of the hinder legs 3 2 + Ditto of the fore paws 1 7 1/2 + Circumference of the tail of the root 1 5 + ------------------------------------------------------------------ + +After this perhaps I shall hardly be credited, when I affirm that the +kangaroo on being brought forth is not larger than an English mouse. +It is, however, in my power to speak positively on this head, as I have +seen more than one instance of it. + +In running, this animal confines himself entirely to his hinder, legs, +which are possessed with an extraordinary muscular power. Their speed +is very great, though not in general quite equal to that of a greyhound; +but when the greyhounds are so fortunate as to seize them, they are +incapable of retaining their hold, from the amazing struggles of the +animal. The bound of the kangaroo, when not hard pressed, has been +measured, and found to exceed twenty feet. + +At what time of the year they copulate, and in what manner, we know +not: the testicles of the male are placed contrary to the usual order of +nature. + +When young the kangaroo eats tender and well flavoured, tasting like +veal, but the old ones are more tough and stringy than bullbeef. They +are not carnivorous, and subsist altogether on particular flowers and +grass. Their bleat is mournful, and very different from that of any +other animal: it is, however, seldom heard but in the young ones. + +Fish, which our sanguine hopes led us to expect in great quantities, do +not abound. In summer they are tolerably plentiful, but for some months +past very few have been taken. Botany Bay in this respect exceeds Port +Jackson. The French once caught near two thousand fish in one day, of +a species of grouper, to which, from the form of a bone in the head +resembling a helmet, we have given the name of light horseman. To this +may be added bass, mullets, skait, soles, leather-jackets, and many +other species, all so good in their kind, as to double our regret at +their not being more numerous. Sharks of an enormous size are found +here. One of these was caught by the people on board the Sirius, which +measured at the shoulders six feet and a half in circumference. His +liver yielded twenty-four gallons of oil; and in his stomach was found +the head of a shark, which had been thrown overboard from the same ship. +The Indians, probably from having felt the effects of their voracious +fury, testify the utmost horror on seeing these terrible fish. + +Venomous animals and reptiles are rarely seen. Large snakes beautifully +variegated have been killed, but of the effect of their bites we are +happily ignorant. Insects, though numerous, are by no means, even in +summer, so troublesome as I have found them in America, the West Indies, +and other countries. + +The climate is undoubtedly very desirable to live in. In summer the +heats are usually moderated by the sea breeze, which sets in early; +and in winter the degree of cold is so slight as to occasion no +inconvenience; once or twice we have had hoar frosts and hail, but +no appearance of snow. The thermometer has never risen beyond 84, nor +fallen lower than 35, in general it stood in the beginning of February +at between 78 and 74 at noon. Nor is the temperature of the air less +healthy than pleasant. Those dreadful putrid fevers by which new +countries are so often ravaged, are unknown to us: and excepting a +slight diarrhoea, which prevailed soon after we had landed, and was +fatal in very few instances, we are strangers to epidemic diseases. + +On the whole, (thunder storms in the hot months excepted) I know not any +climate equal to this I write in. Ere we had been a fortnight on shore +we experienced some storms of thunder accompanied with rain, than +which nothing can be conceived more violent and tremendous, and their +repetition for several days, joined to the damage they did, by killing +several of our sheep, led us to draw presages of an unpleasant +nature. Happily, however, for many months we have escaped any similar +visitations. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + + + +The Progress made in the Settlement; and the Situation of Affairs at the +Time of the Ship, which conveys this Account, sailing for England. + + +For the purpose of expediting the public work, the male convicts have +been divided into gangs, over each of which a person, selected from +among themselves, is placed. It is to be regretted that Government did +not take this matter into consideration before we left England, and +appoint proper persons with reasonable salaries to execute the office of +overseers; as the consequence of our present imperfect plan is such, as +to defeat in a great measure the purposes for which the prisoners were +sent out. The female convicts have hitherto lived in a state of total +idleness; except a few who are kept at work in making pegs for tiles, +and picking up shells for burning into lime. For the last time I repeat, +that the behaviour of all classes of these people since our arrival in +the settlement has been better than could, I think, have been expected +from them. + +Temporary wooden storehouses covered with thatch or shingles, in which +the cargoes of all the ships have been lodged, are completed; and +an hospital is erected. Barracks for the military are considerably +advanced; and little huts to serve, until something more permanent can +be finished, have been raised on all sides. Notwithstanding this the +encampments of the marines and convicts are still kept up; and to +secure their owners from the coldness of the nights, are covered in with +bushes, and thatched over. + +The plan of a town I have already said is marked out. And as freestone +of an excellent quality abounds, one requisite towards the completion +of it is attained. Only two houses of stone are yet begun, which are +intended for the Governor and Lieutenant Governor. One of the greatest +impediments we meet with is a want of limestone, of which no signs +appear. Clay for making bricks is in plenty, and a considerable quantity +of them burned and ready for use. + +In enumerating the public buildings I find I have been so remiss as +to omit an observatory, which is erected at a small distance from +the encampments. It is nearly completed, and when fitted up with the +telescopes and other astronomical instruments sent out by the Board of +Longitude, will afford a desirable retreat from the listlessness of a +camp evening at Port Jackson. One of the principal reasons which induced +the Board to grant this apparatus was, for the purpose of enabling +Lieutenant Dawes, of the marines, (to whose care it is intrusted) to +make observations on a comet which is shortly expected to appear in the +southern hemisphere. The latitude of the observatory, from the result of +more than three hundred observations, is fixed at 33 deg 52 min 30 sec +south, and the longitude at 151 deg 16 min 30 sec east of Greenwich. The +latitude of the south head which forms the entrance of the harbour, 33 +deg 51 min, and that of the north head opposite to it at 33 deg 49 min +45 sec south. + +Since landing here our military force has suffered a diminution of only +three persons, a serjeant and two privates. Of the convicts fifty-four +have perished, including the executions. Amidst the causes of this +mortality, excessive toil and a scarcity of food are not to be numbered, +as the reader will easily conceive, when informed, that they have +the same allowance of provisions as every officer and soldier in the +garrison; and are indulged by being exempted from labour every Saturday +afternoon and Sunday. On the latter of those days they are expected +to attend divine service, which is performed either within one of the +storehouses, or under a great tree in the open air, until a church can +be built. + +Amidst our public labours, that no fortified post, or place of security, +is yet begun, may be a matter of surprise. Were an emergency in the +night to happen, it is not easy to say what might not take place before +troops, scattered about in an extensive encampment, could be formed, so +as to act. An event that happened a few evenings since may, perhaps, be +the means of forwarding this necessary work. In the dead of night the +centinels on the eastern side of the cove were alarmed by the voices +of the Indians, talking near their posts. The soldiers on this occasion +acted with their usual firmness, and without creating a disturbance, +acquainted the officer of the guard with the circumstance, who +immediately took every precaution to prevent an attack, and at the same +time gave orders that no molestation, while they continued peaceable, +should be offered them. From the darkness of the night, and the distance +they kept at, it was not easy to ascertain their number, but from the +sound of the voices and other circumstances, it was calculated at near +thirty. To their intentions in honouring us with this visit (the only +one we have had from them in the last five months) we are strangers, +though most probably it was either with a view to pilfer, or to +ascertain in what security we slept, and the precautions we used in the +night. When the bells of the ships in the harbour struck the hour of the +night, and the centinels called out on their posts "All's well," they +observed a dead silence, and continued it for some minutes, though +talking with the greatest earnestness and vociferation but the moment +before. After having remained a considerable time they departed without +interchanging a syllable with our people. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + + + +Some Thoughts on the Advantages which may arise to the Mother Country +from forming the Colony. + + +The author of these sheets would subject himself to the charge of +presumption, were he to aim at developing the intentions of Government +in forming this settlement. But without giving offence, or incurring +reproach, he hopes his opinion on the probability of advantage to be +drawn from hence by Great Britain, may be fairly made known. + +If only a receptacle for convicts be intended, this place stands +unequalled from the situation, extent, and nature of the country. When +viewed in a commercial light, I fear its insignificance will appear very +striking. The New Zealand hemp, of which so many sanguine expectations +were formed, is not a native of the soil; and Norfolk Island, where we +made sure to find this article, is also without it. So that the scheme +of being able to assist the East Indies with naval stores, in case of a +war, must fall to the ground, both from this deficiency, and the quality +of the timber growing here. Were it indeed possible to transport that of +Norfolk Island, its value would be found very great, but the difficulty, +from the surf, I am well informed, is so insuperable as to forbid +the attempt. Lord Howe Island, discovered by Lieut. Ball, though an +inestimable acquisition to our colony, produces little else than the +mountain cabbage tree. + +Should a sufficient military force be sent out to those employed in +cultivating the ground, I see no room to doubt, that in the course of +a few years, the country will be able to yield grain enough for the +support of its new possessors. But to effect this, our present limits +must be greatly extended, which will require detachments of troops not +to be spared from the present establishment. And admitting the position, +the parent country will still have to supply us for a much longer time +with every other necessary of life. For after what we have seen, the +idea of being soon able to breed cattle sufficient for our consumption, +must appear chimerical and absurd. From all which it is evident, that +should Great Britain neglect to send out regular supplies, the most +fatal consequences will ensue. + +Speculators who may feel inclined to try their fortunes here, will do +well to weigh what I have said. If golden dreams of commerce and wealth +flatter their imaginations, disappointment will follow: the remoteness +of situation, productions of the country, and want of connection with +other parts of the world, justify me in the assertion. But to men of +small property, unambitious of trade, and wishing for retirement, I +think the continent of New South Wales not without inducements. One +of this description, with letters of recommendation, and a sufficient +capital (after having provided for his passage hither) to furnish him +with an assortment of tools for clearing land, agricultural and domestic +purposes; possessed also of a few household utensils, a cow, a few sheep +and breeding sows, would, I am of opinion, with proper protection and +encouragement, succeed in obtaining a comfortable livelihood, were he +well assured before he quitted his native country, that a provision for +him until he might be settled, should be secured; and that a grant of +land on his arrival would be allotted him. + +That this adventurer, if of a persevering character and competent +knowledge, might in the course of ten years bring matters into such a +train as to render himself comfortable and independent, I think highly +probable. The superfluities of his farm would enable him to purchase +European commodities from the masters of ships, which will arrive on +Government account, sufficient to supply his wants. But beyond this he +ought not to reckon, for admitting that he might meet with success in +raising tobacco, rice, indigo, or vineyards (for which last I think the +soil and climate admirably adapted), the distance of a mart to vend them +at, would make the expense of transportation so excessive, as to cut off +all hopes of a reasonable profit; nor can there be consumers enough here +to take them off his hands, for so great a length of time to come, as I +shall not be at the trouble of computing. + +Should then any one, induced by this account, emigrate hither, let him, +before he quits England, provide all his wearing apparel for himself, +family, and servants; his furniture, tools of every kind, and implements +of husbandry (among which a plough need not be included, as we make use +of the hoe), for he will touch at no place where they can be purchased +to advantage. If his sheep and hogs are English also, it will be better. +For wines, spirits, tobacco, sugar, coffee, tea, rice, poultry, and many +other articles, he may venture to rely on at Teneriffe or Madeira, the +Brazils and Cape of Good Hope. It will not be his interest to draw bills +on his voyage out, as the exchange of money will be found invariably +against him, and a large discount also deducted. Drafts on the place he +is to touch at, or cash (dollars if possible) will best answer his end. + +To men of desperate fortune and the lowest classes of the people, unless +they can procure a passage as indented servants, similar to the custom +practised of emigrating to America, this part of the world offers no +temptation: for it can hardly be supposed, that Government will be fond +of maintaining them here until they can be settled, and without such +support they must starve. + +Of the Governor's instructions and intentions relative to the disposal +of the convicts, when the term of their transportation shall be expired, +I am ignorant. They will then be free men, and at liberty, I apprehend, +either to settle in the country, or to return to Europe. The former +will be attended with some public expense; and the latter, except in +particular cases, will be difficult to accomplish, from the numberless +causes which prevent a frequent communication between England and this +continent. + + + + +POSTSCRIPT + + + +Sydney Cove, Port Jackson, New South Wales. + + +October 1st, 1788. Little material has occurred in this colony since the +departure of the ships for England, on the 14th July last. On the +20th of that month His Majesty's ship Supply, Captain Ball, sailed +for Norfolk Island, and returned on the 26th August. Our accounts from +thence are more favourable than were expected. The soil proves admirably +adapted to produce all kinds of grain, and European vegetables. But the +discovery which constitutes its value is the New Zealand flax, plants +of which are found growing in every part of the island in the utmost +luxuriancy and abundance. This will, beyond doubt, appear strange to the +reader after what has been related in the former part of my work: and +in future, let the credit of the testimony be as high as it may, I +shall never without diffidence and hesitation presume to contradict +the narrations of Mr. Cook. The truth is, that those sent to settle and +explore the island knew not the form in which the plant grows, and were +unfurnished with every particular which could lead to a knowledge of +it. Unaccountable as this may sound, it is, nevertheless, incontestably +true. Captain Ball brought away with him several specimens for +inspection, and, on trial, by some flax-dressers among us, the threads +produced from them, though coarse, are pronounced to be stronger, more +likely to be durable, and fitter for every purpose of manufacturing +cordage, than any they ever before dressed. + +Every research has been made by those on the island to find a +landing-place, whence it might be practicable to ship off the timber +growing there, but hitherto none has been discovered. A plan, however, +for making one has been laid before the Governor, and is at present +under consideration, though (in the opinion of many here) it is not such +an one as will be found to answer the end proposed. + +Lieut. King and his little garrison were well when the 'Supply' left +them: but I am sorry to add, that, from casualties, their number is +already five less than it originally was. A ship from hence is ready to +sail with an increase of force, besides many convicts for the purpose of +sawing up timber, and turning the flax-plant to advantage. + +So much for Norfolk. In Port Jackson all is quiet and stupid as could be +wished. We generally hear the lie of the day as soon as the beating +of the Reveille announces the return of it; find it contradicted by +breakfast time; and pursue a second through all its varieties, until +night, welcome as to a lover, gives us to sleep and dream ourselves +transported to happier climes. + +Let me not, however, neglect telling you the little news which presents +itself. All descriptions of men enjoy the highest state of health; and +the convicts continue to behave extremely well. A gang of one hundred of +them, guarded by a captain, two subalterns and 20 marines, is about to +be sent up to the head of the harbour, at the distance of 3 leagues, in +a westerly direction, from Sydney Cove, for the purpose of establishing +a settlement there. The convicts are to be employed in putting the land +around into cultivation, as it appears to be of a more promising nature +than that near the encampment. Indeed this last hitherto succeeds but +very indifferently, though I do not yet despair, that when good seeds +can be procured, our toil will be better rewarded. But as this is an +event at a distance, and in itself very precarious, Governor Phillip has +determined on procuring a supply of flour and other necessaries from the +Cape of Good Hope, as our stock on hand is found to be, on examination, +not quite so ample as had been reckoned upon. To execute this purpose +his Excellency has ordered the Sirius to prepare for the voyage; by +which conveyance the opportunity of writing to you is afforded me. It +was at first intended to dispatch the Sirius to some of the neighbouring +islands (the Friendly or Society) in the Pacific Ocean, to procure stock +there, but the uselessness of the scheme, joined to the situation +of matters here, has, happily for us, prevented its being put into +execution. + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Narrative of the Expedition to +Botany Bay, by Watkin Tench + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXPEDITION TO BOTANY BAY *** + +***** This file should be named 3535.txt or 3535.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/5/3/3535/ + +Produced by Col Choat and Stuart Kidd + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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