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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Our Artist in Cuba, by George W. Carleton
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Our Artist in Cuba
+       Fifty drawings on wood. Leaves from the Sketch-book of a
+       traveler, During the Winter of 1864-5.
+
+Author: George W. Carleton
+
+Release Date: February 19, 2011 [EBook #35332]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OUR ARTIST IN CUBA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Chuck Greif (from scanned images available at
+the Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+OUR ARTIST IN CUBA
+
+[Illustration: CARLETON
+
+DEL
+
+hys Marke]
+
+
+
+
+OUR
+
+ARTIST IN CUBA.
+
+FIFTY DRAWINGS ON WOOD.
+
+LEAVES FROM
+
+THE SKETCH-BOOK OF A TRAVELER,
+
+DURING THE WINTER OF 1864-5,
+
+BY GEO. W. CARLETON.
+
+[Illustration: colophon]
+
+NEW YORK:
+
+_Carleton, Publisher,_ 413 _Broadway._
+
+_London: S. Low, Son & Co._
+
+MDCLXV.
+
+Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1865, by
+
+GEO. W. CARLETON,
+
+In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the
+Southern District of New York.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+A PRELIMINARY WORD.
+
+No.
+
+SICK TRANSIT                           1
+
+Two BOOBIES                            2
+
+A COLORED HERCULES                     3
+
+THE CUBAN JEHU                         4
+
+IGLESIA DE SAN FRANCISCO               5
+
+A CUBAN MOTIVE                         6
+
+AN INFLUENZA                           7
+
+FLEE FOR SHELTER                       8
+
+THE RIDE                               9
+
+A COCK-FIGHT                          10
+
+RATHER COOL                           11
+
+A SPANISH RETREAT                     12
+
+TAKE YOUR PICK                        13
+
+SPIDERS, RATS, AND COCKROACHES        14
+
+BELLIGERENTS                          15
+
+MATERFAMILIAS ET FILIUS               16
+
+A CULINARY DEPARTMENT                 17
+
+A BUNDLE OF CLOTHES                   18
+
+A BUTTON-SMASHER                      19
+
+WHITE PANTALOONS                      20
+
+A CARNIVAL ACQUAINTANCE               21
+
+BEAUTY AT THE BALL                    22
+
+A DISAPPOINTMENT                      23
+
+DOLCE FAR NIENTE                      24
+
+LOCOMOTION                            25
+
+THE SPANISH TONGUE                    26
+
+AN UNWELCOME VISITOR                  27
+
+AN AGREEABLE BATH                     28
+
+A CELESTIAL MAID                      29
+
+A STATUE ON A BUST                    30
+
+A TAIL UNFOLDED                       31
+
+PUT MONEY IN THY PURSE                32
+
+SUGAR AND WATER                       33
+
+GREEN FIELDS AND PASTURES NEW         34
+
+A SEGAR WELL-LIGHTED                  35
+
+WHERE SHALL REST BE FOUND             36
+
+ALL ABOARD                            37
+
+THE MATANZAS CAVE                     38
+
+A HARD ROAD TO TRAVEL                 39
+
+A SHADY RETREAT                       40
+
+A SPANISH GROCER                      41
+
+COLORED HELP                          42
+
+VERY MOORISH                          43
+
+CHACUN A SON GOUT                     44
+
+NATURE'S SWEET RESTORER               45
+
+AGRICULTURAL                          46
+
+A COT IN THE VALLEY                   47
+
+A COLORED BEAUTY                      48
+
+CORNER STONES                         49
+
+A SUDDEN DEPARTURE                    50
+
+
+
+
+A PRELIMINARY WORD.
+
+WITH many misgivings, the author of this little _brochure_ has been
+persuaded to give the prominence of publication to a mere pocket-book
+collection of way-side pen-and-ink sketches, the chance results of idle
+moments, sandwiched with such Cuban events as paring oranges and sipping
+from their cups of nectar--tearing through the narrow streets of Havana
+in ragged volantes--listening in the soft moonlight, and arm-in-arm with
+Cuban senoritas, to the Artillery band in the Plaza des Armas--assisting
+with domino and false nose at the masquerades in the Tacon
+Theatre--lounging with ices or delicious chocolate at the Cafe
+Dominica--dallying with cigar and fragrant coffee, after the regulation
+breakfast of codfish, garlic, and onions--snuffing up the perfumed air,
+and strolling through the golden orange-groves of Cafetals--joining in
+the battle, murder, and sudden death of Marinao
+cock-fights--vagabondizing along the shady side of Calle Obispo--and so
+forth, through all the _dulce far nientes_ of a stranger's drifting
+life, among the lights and shadows of the Antilles' Queen.
+
+The only merit the pictures possess, perhaps, is their faithfulness to
+nature. Though chiefly caricatures, they represent such incidents and
+scenes as every one, with both eyes open, sees, who visits Cuba; and
+being sketched upon the spot, with all the crispy freshness of a first
+impression, they possess a sort of photographic value, that, in spite of
+their grotesqueness, may prove more lasting than the entertainment which
+their humor offers.
+
+NEW YORK, April, 1865.
+
+
+
+
+THE START.--THE STEAMSHIP COLUMBIA.
+
+AT SEA.
+
+[Illustration: First day out.--The wind freshens up a trifle as we get
+outside Sandy Hook; but our artist says he is'nt sea-sick, for he never
+felt better in his life.]
+
+
+
+
+IN THE GULF OF MEXICO.
+
+[Illustration: A "Booby"--as seen _from_ the ship's deck.]
+
+[Illustration: A Booby--as seen _on_ the ship's deck.]
+
+
+
+
+ARRIVAL AT HAVANA.
+
+[Illustration: A side elevation of the colored gentleman who carried our
+luggage from the small boat to the Custom House.]
+
+
+
+
+STREETS OF HAVANA.--CALLE MERCADERES.
+
+[Illustration: The first volante driver that our artist saw in Havana.]
+
+
+
+
+VIEW FROM OUR WINDOW AT THE HOTEL ALMY.
+
+[Illustration: The old Convent and Bell Tower of the Church of San
+Francisco,--now used as a Custom House.]
+
+
+
+
+STREETS OF HAVANA.--CALLE TENIENTE RE.
+
+[Illustration: A Cuban Cart and its Motive Power.--Ye patient Donkey.]
+
+
+
+
+AT THE CAFE LOUVRE.
+
+[Illustration: Manners and Customs of a Cuban with a Cold in his Head.]
+
+
+
+
+THE [WICKED] FLEA OF HAVANA.
+
+[Illustration: PART I.--The beast in a torpid condition.]
+
+[Illustration: PART II.--When he "smells the blood of an Englishmun."]
+
+
+
+
+THE NATIONAL VEHICLE OF HAVANA.
+
+[Illustration: Manner and Custom of Harnessing ye Animiles to ye Cuban
+Volante.]
+
+
+
+
+A COCK-FIGHT IN CUBA.
+
+[Illustration: I.--Chanticleer as he goes in.]
+
+[Illustration: II.--Chanticleer considerably "played out."]
+
+
+
+
+STREETS OF HAVANA.--CALLE LAMPARILLA.
+
+[Illustration: The cool and airy style in which they dress the rising
+colored generation of Havana.]
+
+
+
+
+THE CUBAN TOOTH-PICK.
+
+[Illustration: Two ways of carrying it--behind the ear, and in the
+back-hair.]
+
+
+
+
+THE CAPTAIN GENERAL'S QUINTA,
+
+[Illustration: View of the Canal and Cocoa Tree; looking East from the
+Grotto.]
+
+
+
+
+THE DOMESTIC INSECTS OF HAVANA.
+
+[Illustration: Agitation of the Better-Half of Our Artist, upon entering
+her chamber and making their acquaintance.]
+
+
+
+
+A LITTLE EPISODE IN THE CALLE BARRATILLO.
+
+[Illustration: A slight difference arises between the housekeeper's cat
+and the butcher's dog, who has just come out in his summer costume.]
+
+
+
+
+STREETS OF HAVANA.--CALLE COMPOSTELLA,
+
+[Illustration: The Free Negro.--An every-day scene,-when the weather is
+fine.]
+
+
+
+
+AN INTERIOR IN HAVANA.
+
+[Illustration: Kitchen, chief-cook and bottle-washer in the
+establishment of Mrs. Franke, out on the "Cerro."]
+
+
+
+
+HEADS OF THE PEOPLE.
+
+[Illustration: A portrait of the young lady, whose family (after
+considerable urging) consents to take in our washing.]
+
+
+
+
+PRIMITIVE HABITS OF THE NATIVES.
+
+[Illustration: Washing in Havana.--$4.00 a dozen in gold.]
+
+
+
+
+WASHING IN HAVANA..
+
+[Illustration: I.--My pantaloons as they went _in_.]
+
+[Illustration: II.--My pantaloons as they came _out_.]
+
+
+
+
+CARNIVAL IN HAVANA.
+
+[Illustration: A Masquerade at the Tacon Theatre.--Types of Costume,
+with a glimpse of the "Cuban Dance" in the background.]
+
+
+
+
+A MASK BALL AT THE TACON.
+
+[Illustration: Our artist mixes in the giddy dance, and falls
+desperately in love with this sweet creature---- but]
+
+
+
+
+LATER IN THE EVENING,
+
+[Illustration: When the "sweet creature" unmasks, our Artist suddenly
+recovers from his fit of admiration. Alas! beauty is but mask deep.]
+
+
+
+
+STREETS OF HAVANA--CALLE OBRAPIA.
+
+[Illustration: The Cuban Wheelbarrow--In Repose.]
+
+
+
+
+STREETS OF HAVANA--CALLE O'REILLY.
+
+[Illustration: The Cuban Wheelbarrow--In action.]
+
+
+
+
+FIRST HOUR!
+
+[Illustration: SECOND HOUR!!]
+
+[Illustration: THIRD HOUR!!!]
+
+[Illustration: Our Artist forms the praiseworthy determination of
+studying the Spanish language, and devotes three hours to the
+enterprise.]
+
+
+
+
+BED-ROOMS IN CUBA.
+
+[Illustration: The Scorpion of Havana,--encountered in his native
+jungle.]
+
+
+
+
+SEA-BATHS IN HAVANA,
+
+[Illustration: Our Artist having prepared himself for a jolly plunge,
+inadvertently observes an insect peculiar to the water, and rather
+thinks he won't go in just now.]
+
+
+
+
+HOTELS IN HAVANA.
+
+[Illustration: A cheerful Chinese Chambermaid (?) at the Fonda de
+Ingleterra, outside the walls.]
+
+
+
+
+HIGH ART IN HAVANA.
+
+[Illustration: A gay (but slightly mutilated) old plaster-of-Paris girl,
+that I found in one of the avenues of the Bishop's Garden, on the
+"Cerro."]
+
+
+
+
+LOCOMOTION IN THE COUNTRY.
+
+[Illustration: A Cuban Planter going into town with his plunder.]
+
+
+
+
+SHOPPING IN HAVANA.
+
+[Illustration: Our Artist just steps around the corner, to look at a
+"sweet thing in fans" that his wife has found.]
+
+[Illustration: RESULT!]
+
+
+
+
+THE NATIONAL BEVERAGE OF HAVANA.
+
+[Illustration: Our Artist indulges in a _panale frio_ (a sort of
+lime-ade), at the Cafe Dominica, and gets so "set up," that he vows he
+won't go home till morning.]
+
+
+
+
+THE LIZARDS OF CUBA.
+
+[Illustration: Our Artist, on an entomological expedition in the
+Bishop's Garden, is disagreeably surprised to find such sprightly
+specimens.]
+
+
+
+
+SMOKING IN HAVANA.
+
+[Illustration: An English acquaintance of Our Artist wants a light for
+his paper segar; whereupon the waiter, according to custom, brings a
+live coal.]
+
+
+
+
+THE MUSQUITOS OF HAVANA.
+
+[Illustration: A midsummer's night dream.--Our Artist is just the least
+bit disturbed in his rest, and gently remonstrates.]
+
+
+
+
+PUBLIC SERVANTS IN CUBA.
+
+[Illustration: A gay and festive Chinese brakeman, on the railroad near
+Guines.--The shirt-collar-and-pair-of-spurs style of costume.]
+
+
+
+
+ONE OF THE SENSATIONS IN CUBA.
+
+[Illustration: The Great Cave near Matanzas.--Picturesque House over the
+Entrance.]
+
+
+
+
+THE GREAT CAVE NEAR MATANZAS.
+
+[Illustration: A section of the interior--showing the comfortable manner
+in which our artist followed the guide, inspected the stalactites, and
+comported himself generally.]
+
+
+
+
+THE OUTSKIRTS OF MATANZAS.
+
+[Illustration: One of the Fortifications.--Sketched from the end of the
+_Passeo_, on a day hot enough to give anything but a donkey the brain
+fever.]
+
+
+
+
+ARCHITECTURE IN MATANZAS.
+
+[Illustration: A romantic little _tienda mista_ (grocery store) on a
+corner, in the Calle Ona.]
+
+
+
+
+A CAFFETAL NEAR MATANZAS.
+
+[Illustration: Our Artist becomes dumb with admiration, at the ingenious
+manner of toting little niggers.]
+
+
+
+
+THE PICTURESQUE IN MATANZAS.
+
+[Illustration: A singular little bit, out of the Calle Manzana.]
+
+
+
+
+A SUGAR PLANTATION, NEAR THE YUMORI.
+
+[Illustration: Our Artist essays to drink the milk from a green Cocoa;]
+
+[Illustration: Fatal effect.--An uncomfortable sensation!]
+
+
+
+
+A BED-CHAMBER IN MATANZAS.
+
+[Illustration: First night at the "Gran Hotel Leon de Oro."--Our artist
+is accommodated with quarters on the ground-floor, convenient to the
+court-yard, and is lulled to sleep by a little domestic concert of cats,
+dogs, donkeys, parrots and game-cocks.]
+
+
+
+
+ECONOMY IS WEALTH.
+
+[Illustration: Showing the manner in which one ox accomplishes the labor
+of two, in San Felipe.]
+
+
+
+
+THE SUBURBS OF CALABAZAR
+
+[Illustration: A Planter's Hut, and three scraggly Palm Trees in the dim
+distance.]
+
+
+
+
+PLANTATIONS NEAR MARIANAS,
+
+[Illustration: A Colored Beauty toting Sugar Cane from the field to the
+grinding mill.]
+
+
+
+
+ARCHITECTURE IN HAVANA.
+
+[Illustration: A conglomerate _Esquiria_, on the corner of Calle Obispo
+and Monserate.]
+
+
+
+
+LAST NIGHT IN HAVANA.
+
+[Illustration: Alarm of Our Artist and Wife, upon going to their room to
+pack, and discovering that a Tarantula has taken possession of their
+trunk.]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Our Artist in Cuba, by George W. Carleton
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OUR ARTIST IN CUBA ***
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