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diff --git a/35322-0.txt b/35322-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..95e31a5 --- /dev/null +++ b/35322-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11692 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Thistle and the Cedar of Lebanon, by +Habeeb Risk Allah + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: The Thistle and the Cedar of Lebanon + + +Author: Habeeb Risk Allah + + + +Release Date: February 18, 2011 [eBook #35322] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE THISTLE AND THE CEDAR OF +LEBANON*** + + +This ebook was transcribed by Les Bowler. + + [Picture: Portrait of the Author] + + + + + + THE THISTLE + AND + THE CEDAR OF LEBANON, + + + * * * * * + + BY + HABEEB RISK ALLAH EFFENDI, + M.R.C.S., + AND ASSOCIATE OF KING’S COLLEGE. + + * * * * * + + “And Jehoash the king of Israel sent to Amaziah king of Judah, + saying, The thistle that was in Lebanon, sent to the cedar that was + in Lebanon, saying, Give thy daughter to my son to wife; and there + passed by a wild beast that was in Lebanon, and trode down the + thistle.”—2 Kings xiv. 9. + + * * * * * + + SECOND EDITION. + + * * * * * + + LONDON: + JAMES MADDEN, 8 LEADENHALL STREET. + + * * * * * + + 1854 + + * * * * * + + LONDON: + PRINTED BY WERTHEIMER AND CO. + FINSBURY CIRCUS. + + + + +PREFACE +TO THE FIRST EDITION. + + +The following pages were written in compliance with the solicitations of +many esteemed friends, who were desirous that I should lay before the +public an outline of my life and travels, and give to the English nation +a description of the domestic habits and religious opinions of my +countrymen in Syria. However incompetent I may have proved for the task, +I trust that what I have written may not be wholly uninteresting; and +above all, it is my earnest hope, that my feeble efforts to arouse the +generous interest of the English for the welfare and improvement of my +native land, may not prove without use. + +In choosing the title which is prefixed to my humble work, I have acted +upon the long-established usage of my countrymen of speaking +parabolically, a practice which has existed from the days of Job down to +the present time. + +I cannot conclude without offering my heartfelt thanks to my friend, the +Rev. Wm. Frederick Witts, Fellow of King’s College, Cambridge, for the +valuable assistance he has rendered me in revising these pages for the +press. + + R. A. + +18, _Cambridge-square_, _Hyde Park_, + _May_, 1853. + + PREFACE + TO THE SECOND EDITION. + +One thousand copies, which constituted the First Edition of this work, +having been disposed of within six months, I cannot allow another to go +forth without expressing the satisfaction I feel at the liberal +encouragement it has met with, and the gratitude I entertain towards my +English readers for their indulgence towards it. My acknowledgments are +also due to the Press, for the very favourable notices with which it has +been invariably honoured by them. + +The same hope which animated my labours, and induced me to present them +to the public, still cheers me on, namely, that of engaging the attention +and exciting the interest of the English nation in the fate and prospects +of Syria, my beloved country: a land dear to every thinking mind from its +sacred associations, and richly meriting the attention of the man of +business and the traveller, from its undeveloped material resources, and +from its picturesque beauty and healthy climate. + +I can only allude to, in order to deplore, the state of war which now +agitates and exhausts it; but in whatever manner the dispute may be +settled, I have confidence that England and France will see justice done +to an outraged country; and also, that the patriotic cause of our +government will finally triumph over its enemies; for, under the generous +and tolerant sway of Abdul Medjid Khan, and his enlightened ministers, +far more is to be effected for the welfare of every class of his +subjects, than are likely to arise from the interference of any foreign +power; and I am sure that the more intelligent portion of the Orthodox +Greek population are fully aware of this, and that they are, as they +ought to be, loyally disposed towards the Sultan, their sovereign. + +As I am now on the eve of quitting England for the East, I take this +opportunity of publicly giving expression to my heartfelt sense of the +uniform kindness and courtesy I have met with from all ranks in this +mighty empire; also, of once more expressing the earnest hope, that when +this present contest shall have ceased, British energy, philanthropy, and +capital, may be induced to promote the commercial and educational +development of the population and resources of my native land. She +possesses many natural treasures—she is eager for improvement—she is not +far distant. + +If to this end the following pages shall have, even in the smallest +degree contributed, I shall enjoy the high gratification of believing +that neither my life nor my labour has been in vain. + +Many inaccuracies, I regret to say, occurred in the First Edition; these +I have done my best to correct. Should any (I trust no material ones) +have still escaped me, I must crave my reader’s indulgence for them. + + _London_, _Feb._ 11, 1854. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + PAGE + INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. + 1 + CHAPTER I. +Reminiscences of early Childhood—My Birth-place—Sheikh 5 +Faris Biridi—Early Tuition—Family Customs—Position of +Shuay-fât, and Pastures—Inhabitants—Author quits for +Beyrout + CHAPTER II. +Beyrout—Piratical Attack—Flight to Mountains—Effects of 14 +the Assault upon the Inhabitants + CHAPTER III. +Damascus—Author’s First visit to—Description of the 18 +Town—The Inhabitants—The Customs and Manners—The +Ladies—Their Beauty and Freedom—Court-yards and +Houses—Bazaars—Environs—Soirées—Games—Specimens of Poetry +and Songs—Wonderful Legend—Refreshments—Entertainment +given by the British Consul—Privileges of Christians—Padre +Tomaso—American and British +Missions—Population—Antiquity—Ravages by Cholera + CHAPTER IV. +Return to Beyrout—American Mission—Original Difficulties 41 +they encountered—How overcome—The Estimation of +Physicians—Anecdote of Mr. Zohrab—American +Doctors—Introduction to School—Reminiscences of +School-days—Anecdote of Sheikh Ahmed—Lists of +Missionaries—Adventure of Mr. Bird—The Pacha’s +Revenge—Description of the Rise of the Settlement and +trade at Beyrout—Climate, Hints with regard to + CHAPTER V. +Visit to Cyprus—Description of Voyage—Arrival at 57 +Larnaca—Visit to Nicosia and other towns—Cyprus +Wines—Languages—Departure for Tersous—Arrival at +Mersine—Scenery in Cilicia—Gardens—Buildings of +Tersous—Streets—Climate—Inhabitants—Signor Michael +Saba—Adana—Its Shops and +Streets—Inhabitants—Fanaticism—Revolts—Pacha’s Service—The +Pass of Kulek Bughas—Scenery—Departure for Ayas + CHAPTER VI. +Ayas to Scanderoon—Scanderoon to Aleppo—Description of 71 +Journey—The Aleppines—Their Style and Polish—A Wedding +described—Syrian Step-mothers—Jewish and Christian +quarters—Earthquake of 1822—Pastimes and Garden +Parties—Population—Commerce—Departure for Antioch—Gessir +il Haded—Orontes—Antioch + CHAPTER VII. +Antioch—Its Beauty and Fruitfulness—Visit to Suedia and 85 +Lattakia—Signor Mosi Elias—Hardships endured by Consular +Agents—Anecdote of English Travellers—Uses and Abuses of +the Protection System—Fanaticism of Moslem +Populace—Produce—Lattakia to Tripoli—Oranges—Abu +Rish—Signor Catsoflis—A fair Intercessor for Justice to +the Injured—Results of the Appeal—Cedars of +Lebanon—Baalbec—Anecdote of English Forces—Turjaman +Bashi—Strange Character of Sayid Ali—Damascus—Djouni and +Sidon—Lady Hesther—General Loustannau—Description of +Sidon—Bombardment of St. Jean d’Acre—Kaipha and Mount +Carmel—Mistaken Ideas of Love + CHAPTER VIII. +First visit to England—Sail for Malta—Miseries of 122 +Seasickness—Arrival at Malta—The Emir Beschir—Late Bishop +of Jerusalem—Steam Frigate Gorgon—Arrival at +Portsmouth—Rev. Baptist Noel—London—Souvenir of +Wimbledon—A Duel prevented—Anecdote of Druse Sheikh—Return +to Syria—Sir George Otway—Arrival at Beyrout—War between +Druses and Maronites—Stamboul—Emir Kasim, his History—Lord +Cowley—Dr. Bennett—Mr. Goodall—Return to +England—Malta—Marseilles—Adventure with French Officer—M. +Guizot—Suliman Pacha—M. Thiers—Delicate Mission—Arrival in +England—Prince Callimaki—Mr. Zohrab—Mr. B. Phillips—King’s +College, London—Medical Profession—Lectures—Frightful +Accident—Long Illness—Admission as Member of King’s +College—The Mir Shahamet Ali and Sir C. Wade—Visit to +Manufacturing Districts—Lamartine + CHAPTER IX. +Visit to Paris—First Impressions—Boulevards—Champs 164 +Elysées—Description of a Lodging-house—Domestic Habits of +the French—English and French Friendship—Departure for +Constantinople _viâ_ Vienna + CHAPTER X. +Reminiscences of Stamboul—Entertainments—Songs—The Tailor 170 +and the Sultan—The Sultan’s Condescension—Marriage of the +Daughter of Prince Vogiredis—Turkish Navy—Present Crisis—A +Renegade Girl + CHAPTER XI. +Egypt—Abbas Pasha and his Improvements—The British 184 +Consul-General—Mr. Abet—Mr. Larking—Boghas +Bey—Antiquities—Climate—Library—Advantages enjoyed by +European Residents—Festivities—Fulfilment of Prophecy—Late +Gift of Horses presented by Nubar Bey to her Majesty—The +Hon. G. Massey—Impressions made on the Grooms + CHAPTER XII. +Visit to Devonshire, Bath, and Cheltenham—Visit to Lady 197 +Rolle—Description of Bicton—Travelling by an Express +Train—A Coachman’s Remarks—The Park—Arrival and +Reception—Description of my Life—My Portrait +taken—Amusements—Conversation with Mrs. P--- of Exeter +about the Greek Church—English Young Ladies—Cottage +Visiting—Buildings erected by Lady Rolle at Bicton—Amusing +Anecdote of an Eastern Princess—Drive to +Exeter—Equipage—Cathedral—Frescoes—Gaol—Child in Prison +there—Female Department—Villagers’ Opinions of +me—Bath—Beauties of Country reminded me of +Syria—Springs—Arrival—Sir Claude Wade—Tour of the +City—Society—Diversity of Religious +Opinions—Service—Soirée—Agreeable Rencontre—Second Visit +to Bath—Bachelor’s Ball—Lady Mayoress’s Ball at the +Guildhall—Recognition as a Free-mason—Invitation to “The +Lodge of Honour” to meet the Mayor—Meeting with Dr. +Thompson—Lecture—Quoted from the Paper—Visit to +Cheltenham—Rev. J. Brown—Rev. C. H. Bromley—Meeting—My +Address—Appeal to send over for, and educate young Syrians +at the Normal College at Cheltenham—Case of a young Syrian +Lad—Lord Northwick—His Collection of +Paintings—Conclusion—Reasons for appearing before the +Public as an Author + CHAPTER XIII. +Impressions of England—Letters to a Friend in the 216 +East—Voyage to England—Landing—Custom-house—Crowded +Thoroughfares—English Activity—Hotel—Servants—Drive—Motley +Groups—Squares—Park—Houris—Heart-aches—Dinner—English +Splendour, but Syrian Ease and a Chibuk preferred—English +Acquaintances—Society—Young Ladies—Their +Freedom—Matrons—Their +Acquirements—Etiquette—Dress—Widows—Gentlemen—English +Sabbath—Public Schools and Colleges—The Queen—Missionary +and Charitable Institutions—Great Wealth of the +English—The Merchants—The Fashionable World—The +Opera—Expensive Pleasure—Insatiable Craving for +Riches—Desire for an English +Home—Marriages—Children—Schooling—Absence of Reverence for +Beards—Devotion of the Young Fair Sex to Uniforms—Kindness +to Strangers—Interest in the Holy Land—Hospitality—Private +Worth and Public Scheming + CHAPTER XIV. +Life, Manners, and Customs of Syria—Ceremonies at 233 +Births—Christian Names—Remedies for Infantile +Diseases—Early Instruction and Training—Syrian +Manners—Reverential Treatment of Priests—Personal +Cleanliness—Education—Betrothal—Marriage—Polygamy of +Mahommedans—Education of Girls—Household Maxims—Domestic +Snakes—Mourning for the Dead—A Lover’s Lament + CHAPTER XV. +Syria and her Inhabitants—Description of the Southern 259 +parts of Palestine—The Misery of its Inhabitants—Their +Disposition and Labours—Sea-coast Population—Their +Habits—Scriptural Analogy—Sidon, Lebanon, Tripoli, +Lattakia and Antioch—The Children of those Parts—Appeal to +the British on behalf of Syria—Real State of the Turkish +Empire—Safety of English Investments—The Turkish +Dominions—How to purchase Property—English Emigrants would +be welcomed in Syria—Mr. John Barker—Colonel +Churchill—Lady Hester Stanhope—Fruits—Cultivation of the +Soil—Advantages for the English Emigrant and Amelioration +for Syria—Major Macdonald—His Discovery of Turquoises and +Presentation of some to the Queen—Advice to Emigrants—All +Particulars and Expenses of Voyage explained, Outlay, +Working, Expenditure and Profits derivable—Climate +recommended for Health + CHAPTER XVI. +Syria, her Inhabitants and their Religion—Religious 279 +Teaching in Syria—American Missionaries—Their Zeal—Greek +or Orthodox Eastern Church—Interview and Conversation with +the Patriarch and Bishops at Constantinople—Letter from +Syria—The Conversion of the Son of a Mufti to +Christianity—Lord Shaftesbury and the Protestant College +at Malta—Mahommedan Power and the Christian Churches in +Syria—Claims of the Orthodox Eastern Church and its +Affinity to the Protestant Churches of England—The Four +Patriarchs—Education of the Syrian Priesthood—The Service +of the Orthodox Eastern Church—Dissenters from it—Account +of Karolus their Patriarch—Dispute about the Head-dress +and reference to Constantinople—Decision—Jealousies of the +Christian Sects—Political Animosities + CHAPTER XVII. +The Maronites—Their Political Position—Anecdote connected 299 +with the Year 1821—Their Customs, Manners, and +Religion—The Number of Roman Catholics in Syria—The +Copts—The Nestorians + CHAPTER XVIII. +The Population of Syria continued—The Metoulis or 317 +Heterodox Followers of Mahommed—The Druses—The +Nosairiyeh—The Yezidees + CHAPTER XIX. +Appearance and Costume of the People—The Aleppine 338 +Greeks—The Dyers—The Armenians—The Yahoodee or +Israelites—The Turkish Effendi—The Bedouins—The Fellaheen + CHAPTER XX. +The Occupations of the People—Lebanon in April—The 352 +Mulberry Plantations—Anecdote—The Silkworms—The Wheat +Harvest—Borghol—The Vintage—The Olive Winter—The Resources +of Syria—The Small Capitalists in Syria + CHAPTER XXI. +The Comparative Influences of the Roman Catholic and 370 +Protestant Faiths in Syria—The Roman Catholics—Their +Convents—Greek and Armenian Monasteries—The Knowledge and +Practice of Medicine—The Influence of the +Hakeem—Anecdote—Conversions—The Sisters of Charity + CHAPTER XXII. +The Remedy—The Early 384 +Apostles—Physicians—Missionaries—Introduction of the +Silkworm from China—Incorporation of the Medical with the +Clerical Profession—Proposed Society to be formed in +England—Hospital—School-rooms—Dispensary—Purchase of +Land—Its Cultivation—System of Education—Letter of Dr. +Thomson—Mr. Cuthbert Young’s “Notes of a Wayfarer” + APPENDIX. +Notes on the Geology of Syria, by Professor Forbes 397 + +INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. + + +In presenting the British public with the following pages, containing a +brief sketch of my life and travels, together with a description of the +customs and present condition of my native land, I am actuated solely by +motives which, I trust, a careful perusal of this work will prove to be +disinterested. + +All nations are more or less patriotic; none more so than the inhabitants +of the British isles. With them the inducements to this love of home are +all-sufficient, for their religion is the purest, their government and +laws the best in the world, and they are second to no people in the +enjoyment of privileges and blessings, such as could be only enjoyed by a +“peculiar people,” under the immediate protection of the Almighty +Benefactor. Next to them we may rank, as promoters of freedom and +enlightenment, the citizens of the United States, those other scions of a +noble stock. + +Yet so peculiar is that innate love of man for the particular country and +people with which are associated the early years of his childhood, that +even the son of utter darkness, born and bred a savage, inured to every +hardship and privation, who boasts of no city, scarcely professes a +religion, whose home is the desert waste, his bed the warm sands of +Arabia, even he, the wild Bedouin, in his untutored heart, sets boundless +store by the place and people to which early attachment has rivetted his +affections. Separate him from these and from his beloved mare, and no +riches or pleasures could compensate him for the loss. This is also +applicable to the humble and oftentimes oppressed natives who dwell in +the towns and villages of Syria, Lebanon, and Palestine. Though for +centuries they have been subjected to the heavy yoke of bondage, and of +late years, like the Israelites of old, were bondsmen to Egypt; however +much they may have deplored their hard fate, none have ever dreamt of +quitting the dear land of their forefathers—those ancestors who were +coeval with the patriarchs. Some till the ground where Abraham once +tended his flocks; others cut timber where the men of Hiram and Solomon +once hewed cedars for the temple at Jerusalem; but the boast and glory of +all these is, that they dwell in the land where the Promise was +fulfilled. One may be by birth a Nazarene, another a townsman of Cana. +A day or two’s journey enables him to reach that very Bethlehem where the +blessed Redeemer was born, to track His holy footsteps in His pilgrimage +of mercy from place to place, to weep and bemoan Him on the site of the +last closing scenes of His holy life, and to raise up their hearts with +grateful thanksgivings for the great salvation wrought out for their +souls by His glorious resurrection. + +Apart from these cherished associations of the spiritual with the +temporal world, the native of the Holy Land is fondly attached to his +country, because its climate is congenial to his manners, its soil +productive, its inhabitants hospitable, its waters the purest, air the +freshest, sun the brightest, fruits the most delicious, and flowers the +sweetest and most wildly profuse. All these gifts in the greatest +luxuriance are to be found within the Lebanon range—that Lebanon of which +the inspired bard, the wisest of men and the best of kings, sings in his +beautiful metaphor on Christian love. {3} “Thy plants are an orchard of +pomegranates with pleasant fruits. . . A fountain of gardens, a well of +living waters, and streams from Lebanon.” + +With such a past to dwell on, it is not surprising that the poor, +neglected peasant of Syria may still proudly vaunt himself of his +birthright and country. I, too, hope, kind reader, for your sympathy in +my sharing this national characteristic, and for endeavouring, as far as +in me lies, to promote the welfare, both temporal and eternal, of my +fellow countrymen and native land. The former, alas! are gradually +sinking deeper and deeper into the meshes of superstition and idolatry; +the latter groans under a heavy yoke, rendered still less supportable by +the grossest ignorance. The indefatigable propagators of the Romish +faith are arousing the people from their pristine ignorance, only, I +fear, to plunge them into a more fearful vortex of errors. + +I rush to the rescue; for God has blessed me far above my countrymen, by +shedding the true light of the Gospel around my pathway, through the +instrumentality of good and holy men, whom He has chosen for His especial +service, and who have bestowed on me the priceless boon of a Christian +education. I am willing and anxious to devote every hour of my life, and +all my poor means, to the furtherance of His cause. Yet, though much may +combine in my favour, I am inadequate to the accomplishment of the good I +desire for my country, without the aid, wise counsel, and support of the +Christian inhabitants of Great Britain. + +Reader! in the following pages I have endeavoured to depict as clearly as +I can the evil and the remedy. I have glanced over the leading features +of my life, to show how circumstances, trivial in themselves, appear to +have combined in my favour, that I should be an humble instrument in the +hands of my Maker, to work out a brighter and better hope for dear Syria. + +That “pearl of great price,” pure Christianity, has been cherished and +nurtured within these isles till the true faith has reared itself up like +a mighty mirror, reflecting the glorious light of the blessed truths of +the Gospel far and wide. May one beam of charity, reflected from thence, +alight upon the mother church of Syria—that church now sunk in misery and +degradation, but from which (remember, O Christian of Great Britain) was +derived the glorious knowledge of an eternal salvation. + +“The Thistle that _is_ in Lebanon” is the harassed, weak, yet simple +disciple of the Eastern Church; and “the Cedar that was in Lebanon” is +the true Church of Christ, whose seeds were first derived from those Holy +shores, and are now firmly rooted in England. The Thistle has sent to +ask thy daughter, Enlightenment, in marriage to her son, Simplicity. O +refuse her not lest the _wild beast_ in Lebanon should tread down the +Thistle and obtain the ascendancy. + + + + +CHAPTER I. +SCENES OF EARLY CHILDHOOD. + + +My earliest recollections are associated with the lovely and rural +village of Shuay-fât, my birth-place, on the Lebanon; and where, if not +the happiest, certainly the most innocent years of my childhood were +passed. My late father had no fixed residence at that place, but he, +with the rest of his family, usually resorted there to spend the summer +months and part of the autumn and spring. In winter the cold became +intense, owing to the elevated position of the village; consequently most +of its inhabitants and summer visitors, including amongst these latter my +own family, invariably wintered at Beyrout. My uncle, Sheikh Faris +Biridi, filled the important and respected post of _katib_, or secretary +to the Emir Beshir Shahab, the late prince of Lebanon, who resided at the +village of Deyr-al Kamar, situated a few hours’ journey from Shuay-fât. +At least three times a week my uncle’s duties compelled him to visit the +Emir. Sheikh Faris was universally respected amongst the villagers; his +house was the best—his grounds the most extensive, and he himself in +reality, an intelligent and well-informed man. For a Syrian, he was +deeply read and well skilled in the use of his pen; but above all, he was +an earnest and devout Christian, a kind father, and a good friend—virtues +which gained for him the esteem and love of all the neighbouring +villagers, as well Moslems and Druses as the Christians. + +Under the favourable auspices of this kind man’s tuition, I first learned +to read and write my native tongue; and, as I was afterwards informed, +even at that early age, gave cheering proofs of an active mind, and +evinced an aptitude and love for the acquirement of knowledge. I could +not possibly have had a better guide, both as regards precept and +example. So long as I remained under his hospitable roof, his great and +chief care was to richly stock my young mind with doctrines well adapted +to promote the welfare of the soul in after years on all important +business. His household arrangements were an example for others. He was +an early riser himself, and insisted on all his household following this +healthful practice: his maxim was that sleep was for the dark hours of +the night—work and recreation for the light—prayers and thanksgivings for +all seasons. + +My uncle was accustomed when at home to repair every morning, during the +spring and summer seasons, to the top of a neighbouring hill, which +commanded a view over an extensive range of country. On these occasions +it was my wont to accompany him. A servant preceded us carrying a small +carpet and a cushion or two; I carried my uncle’s pipe and tobacco-pouch +with flint, steel, and tinder, in one hand; in the other, the Kitab +Mukaddas, or Arabic Bible, printed in England, by the Church Missionary +Society. As soon as my uncle had seated himself, and assumed his pipe, +he would make me sit at his feet and read out to him from the good Book, +illustrating and commenting as opportunity occurred. The hundred and +fourth Psalm, than which none could be better suited to the time and +place, was usually his favourite. + +From our elevated position, we could command a view, not only of our own +dearly cherished and beautiful hamlet, but also of many of the +surrounding villages. At our feet lay Shuay-fât, with its neat little +cottages and cleanly swept court-yards, surrounded by a dense little +forest of mulberries, oranges, lemons, apricots, olives, countless vines, +and many other fruits; the dark leaves of an occasional poplar lending +variety to the beauty and shading of the foliage. Not a man, woman, or +child, moved to and fro in the narrow little streets, but their names and +occupations were well known to us. The dogs wagged their tails in happy +recognition of my shrill sharp whistle, and a thousand echoes caught up +the signal. The verdant hills and valleys that surrounded us were +thickly dotted with cattle and sheep contentedly browsing upon the rich +pasturage. Peeping over the densely wooded plantations, the tops of the +little whitewashed houses pointed out the locality of some well-known +village. Clear streams of water sparkling in the glowing sunlight, often +intersected the plains and valleys, or rushed headlong down the steep +sides of some deep dell, abounding with wild flowers and myrtle bushes. +Far below, where the distant fields in square patches of variegated hues, +green bespangled with blue and crimson flowers; sometimes covered, like a +sheet of pure gold, with countless buttercups, and sometimes in +uncultivated patches of sombre brown; but what I most dearly loved to +gaze at was the broad blue sea in the distance, looking so pleasantly +cool and calm, with here and there a patch of deeper blue, where the +breeze sportively ruffled the waves. I always thought of Nabiy Yunas {8} +and the great fish, and wondered if many such fish were yet taking their +pastime in the deep. How little I imagined at that time that I was +destined to traverse those mighty waters, and to suffer myself to be +borne away on their waves hundreds of miles from shore, exposed to raging +tempests in a fragile bark! Such a notion would then have been scouted +by all my friends; and I myself should have been foremost in deriding the +idea, and in opposing, that which has since proved conducive to my best +interests, temporal, and I trust eternal; but I was then a child, and +understood and acted as a child. + +From this pleasant spot, my uncle gazed with rapture upon the surrounding +scenery, as the first rays of the sun peered above the snow-capped peaks +of lofty Lebanon, and spread a golden mantle over the vast panorama; from +my childhood, I have known how to appreciate the beauties of nature in +all their poetry; and I admire them still, but with a milder and more +subdued admiration. + +“He sendeth the springs into the valleys, which run among the hills.” +This was a portion of a morning’s reading lesson; the force and beauty of +the verse were illustrated by everything around me. My worthy preceptor +would impress this fact upon my mind. The men, the cattle, the trees, +shrubs, flowers, birds, butterflies, even the most insignificant insect +that crawls upon the earth—all these are preserved, he argued, by the +bounty and beneficence of the Creator—without this water how would nature +subsist? In short the whole of that delightful Psalm seemed as though +expressly composed to illustrate the country around us, especially that +passage which says, “The cedars of Lebanon, which he hath planted; where +the birds make their nests.” + +Thus profitably and pleasantly the early hours of the day would be +consumed. I was then dismissed with sage advice, to remember throughout +the day what I had read and heard; and my uncle being called away by his +avocations, I was left to amuse myself with my play-mates in the village, +until the hour of noon summoned us to our substantial mid-day meal. Like +most boys, we were prone to mischief. I remember a favourite game +amongst the village lads, which occasionally terminated in a squabble, +and was known by the name of Al Cadi, or The Judge. The Cadi was chosen +by lot, as were the officers of his court, and the imaginary plaintiffs +and defendants. Squatted on the ground, under the pleasant shade of some +mulberry-tree, we then held a court. Sentence was recorded and executed; +and sometimes the boy who personated the imaginary criminal was sentenced +to be bastinadoed. On these occasions, the executioners laid about them +so smartly with the light switches of the mulberry and olive, that though +the boy’s shoes were never removed, the lash penetrated to the sole of +the foot, and then the pretended culprit, smarting from pain, would lose +all command over his temper; a _melée_ would ensue, which outraged the +dignity of the court, and usually terminated by all the members, the Cadi +included, being summarily whipped for their naughtiness. + +When the hour of mid-day was announced by the striking of gongs, which in +Syria are usually substituted for bells at some churches, all our family +assembled for _futar_, and my uncle would enter, followed by the peasants +employed about his plantations, together with his other servants. This +was the signal for the cook and her assistant to carry into the centre of +the yard a large iron cauldron, containing the _ruzz-mufalfal_, or +whatever was prepared for the day for the supply of the whole household. +Clean shining platters were ranged in piles round this cauldron, and a +blessing having been first asked, the food was ladled out—a goodly +portion for each—enough and no waste. The only distinguishing mark at +this family meal was, that the members of my uncle’s family were all +seated round a low circular table, and reclined upon carpets and against +cushions. The others sat where their fancy dictated; but they chiefly +crowded under that side of the court-yard wall which afforded a shade +from the heat of the sun. In addition to the contents of the cauldron, +there was generally a dish of stewed meat and vegetables; or (if the +season was Lent), of the egg-vegetable, or _batinjan_, and the +vegetable-marrow, sliced and fried in oil—with as many cucumbers, +pickles, lettuces, radishes, and young onions, as any one wished and +asked for. During the repast, one of the servants usually stood at the +door to watch for any poor wayfarers who might pass, to ask them to +partake of our hospitality. When all had finished, the fragments were +divided into equal portions amongst the cats and dogs of the +establishment; and what was left by them was given to the fowls and +sparrows. Our evening meal differed but little from that of the morning, +except on days when the national dish of _Kubbee_ {10} superseded +everything else. Then we had Kubbees in soup made of _laban_, or curdled +milk, and Kubbees fried, and Kubbees baked; for the Syrian can never tire +of eating of this delicious dish. The interval between mid-day and the +evening was occupied variously—but first came the indispensable siesta, +indulged in by men, women, and children. The men would then return to +their respective labours, while the women occupied themselves in +household matters, and most of the children were sent to the village +school; but for myself, my afternoons were occupied with our family +spiritual adviser, an excellent old man, who came daily and instructed +me, from the hours of two to four P.M. After supper, my uncle would sit +in state and receive the visits of the neighbours, who usually dropped in +for an hour or two every evening. They sat and smoked, and talked about +agricultural matters or village affairs; and sometimes one of the party +would tell an amusing story, and another would sing a song—sweetmeats, +coffee, and other refreshments being from time to time handed round—and +thus the evenings would be spent in pleasant harmless enjoyment. This, +with very little variety, is a faithful picture of what was our every-day +life at Shuay-fât: and so passed the years of my infancy. + +I have omitted to make any personal allusion to the various members of my +family. I hope, however, that I shall be pardoned in making a slight +reference to my uncle’s lovely daughters, nine in number; these fair +cousins of mine outrivalled each other in beauty and amiable qualities, +and each had a trait of beauty peculiar to herself. In Syria, it is the +custom to distinguish the various members of a family by a soubriquet, +which has reference to some perfection or failing. Thus our groom, +Yusuf, who limped a little, was called “_Topal_,” or the lame; and one of +my cousins, “_Al Shams_,” or the sun, owing to her very bright eyes; +whilst another, who had mild blue eyes, was designated, “_Al Kamar_,” or +the moon. _Al Kamar_ was so noted for her beauty and sweet disposition, +that two of the chiefs of Lebanon sought her hand in marriage—and this, +though they had never seen her; but _Al Kamar_ was not ambitious of +honors and riches. The creed of the sheikhs also differed widely from +her own; so she refused them both. All these nine daughters are now +married and settled in life; so I take leave of them with a fervent +prayer, that the Almighty may graciously watch over them, and crown their +end with eternal happiness. + +Shuay-fât, like most of the surrounding villages, produces a large +quantity of silk; but it is in particular celebrated for the excellence +of its wine, its olives, and olive-oil. Of the first, I can affirm, that +I have, in after-years, heard good judges of wine, when quoting its +excellence, refer to it as verifying the words of Hosea (xiv. 7), “The +scent thereof shall be as the wine of Lebanon.” It is certainly very +odoriferous. The olives and olive-oil are not to be surpassed in all +Syria. + +The inhabitants, both men and women, are a fine, healthy people, and the +males are particularly athletic. To describe them well, I cannot use +better or more appropriate language than that of the prophet Ezekiel +(xxxi. 3), “Behold, the Assyrian was a cedar in Lebanon with fair +branches, and with a shadowing shroud, and of a high stature.” + +Yet with all these combined advantages, of health, a delicious climate, +and a fertile soil, many of the poor peasants are oppressed and +miserable. This arises from the iniquitous system of extortion practised +on them by land-owners and subordinate officers. It must, however, be +confessed, that the mountaineers are, to a certain extent, more +independent than the inhabitants of the plains, who are ridden over +roughshod by the petty and tyrannical under-strappers in office. + +I had barely attained my tenth year, when, much to my grief, I was +removed from the family of my kind uncle, and taken to Beyrout, there +permanently to reside; but, alas for short-sighted mortals, an event was +even then brewing, which burst like a tempest, over the Beyroutines, and +which materially affected my father’s plans and wishes with regard to my +future career in life. + + + + +CHAPTER II. +PIRATICAL ATTACK ON BEYROUT. + + +Months rolled on. Merchants were at that period carrying on a +comparatively thriving trade at Beyrout. The novelty of the scene that +presented itself on my first arrival there had gradually worn off. In my +leisure hours I rambled along the sandy beach, gathering shells, and +wading ankle deep into the surf, at first with ill-suppressed fear and +trembling; but the example of other boys emboldening me to venture into +the water, I finished by becoming quite an adept in the art of swimming. +Then the ships were a source of wonder and surprise, as they sailed in +and out of the harbour, like gigantic swans floating over the waves. +These also had ceased to excite interest, for I had been on board, +handled the tarry ropes, walked the deck, and suffered inconvenience from +the disagreeable motion, so that these also had ceased to be a marvel. +Thus time rolled on, and I had well nigh forgotten all my regrets at +leaving Lebanon and the hospitable abode of my uncle, when the unexpected +event alluded to in the foregoing chapter, transpired. + +It was on Palm Sunday, in, I think, the year 1828. The harbour had been +deserted for some few days; there was not even an Arab boat at the +anchorage: and on the eventful evening I am now describing, the eye might +have vainly swept the horizon seeking for indications of an approaching +sail. This, however, was no uncommon event in those days, when the +commerce of Beyrout was yet in its infancy. None imagined, on retiring +to rest that night, that impending danger was so close at hand. Midnight +had, however, scarcely chimed, and the last occupant of the latest open +coffee-house crept home to his hovel, when a tumult arose, and the night +air was filled with shrieks and lamentations, mingled with the startling +reports of fire-arms. There was a rush in the streets of many people +running for their lives; and all the inmates of my father’s household +being now thoroughly awakened, ran out also, and joined the flying +multitude. The Bab Yacoob, leading to Damascus and Lebanon, was open and +unguarded. We fled with the concourse towards the mountains, favored in +our retreat by the obscurity of the night; nor did any one think of +stopping to breathe or repose till they had gained the summit of one of +the neighbouring hills. Here, finding no signs of pursuit, and the +clamour and report of fire-arms having died away in the distance, the +frightened populace halted anxiously to await the first dawn of day, +which was to enable them to secure their retreat to the neighbouring +villages. All were totally ignorant as to the cause of the sudden panic, +but many laboured under the absurd notion that the place had been +attacked by Russian troops. None, however, stopped to be better informed +on the subject; but, renewing their flight with the first light of +morning, each betook himself and family to that village with which he was +best acquainted; and for the next few weeks the Lebanon district was +inundated with the scared refugees from Beyrout. + +As for ourselves, we directed our steps to Shuay-fât, and accomplished +the journey as best we could; arriving there weary and half-famished, to +the utter astonishment and dismay of my uncle’s household, who were at +first quite at a loss to account for our sudden appearance in so pitiable +a condition. Soon after our arrival, official intelligence reached the +mountains of what had transpired. A ruffianly horde of piratical Greeks, +allured by the hopes of meeting with rich booty, had made this sudden +descent upon the peaceful and unsuspecting inhabitants. They had entered +the town without resistance, and once in possession of the Quai, had +unhesitatingly commenced the work of despoliation. Whole warehouses were +stripped—money and rich jewellery carried off—murder and every atrocious +crime, the offspring of villany, had been perpetrated. To secure the +gold coins and jewellery worn by the women on their heads, wrists, and +ankles, the wretches never hesitated to make use of the knife; and +ear-rings were wrenched forcibly from the ears of the hapless victims. +When the pirates were satiated with plunder, they broke and destroyed +what was left; and then, setting fire to different parts of the town, +they betook themselves with their booty to their boats, and thus +disappeared. Luckily for house-owners, most of the buildings were +constructed of solid masonry, with domes and vaulted roofs, so that the +fire, even where it had ignited, speedily exhausted its impotent rage. +The Moslem rabble, disguised as Greeks, also joined in the general foray. + +By this calamity all the residents at Beyrout suffered more or less. +Many were utterly ruined; and my poor father’s losses were so severe, +that he at first wholly relinquished the idea of ever returning to that +place. For many months afterwards we resided at Shuay-fât; but here also +an outbreak amongst the mountaineers disturbed us again, and we were +compelled to retrace our steps to Beyrout, which place, from that day +forward, became my home. + +With regard to the marauders, they escaped scot-free and were neither +detected nor punished, as this took place at the time of the Greek +revolution and the battle of Navarino, when the government were doubtless +too much occupied to notice it. + + + + +CHAPTER III. +DESCRIPTION OF DAMASCUS. + + +It now became necessary that I should seek out and steadfastly follow up +some fixed profession or calling in life. There was more than one motive +that urged this measure upon me as a necessity: in the first place, my +father’s resources had been sadly crippled by the piratical affair; +besides, I was of an age when youths in Syria earn their own livelihood, +and my education was sufficiently advanced to enable me to enter upon the +duties of life. I could read and write my own language; and this was all +that was expected, and much more than many youths of my age could boast. +I had no thought then of acquiring a knowledge of foreign languages. To +escape from the thraldom of school is always a source of great delight to +schoolboys. + +As far as my own views went, I was bent upon going to Damascus; and +though my dear parents opposed this wish at first, I gradually coaxed +them into a consenting mood; and perhaps the greatest inducement for them +to yield to my wishes, was the fact of our having a wealthy and +influential friend, then residing at Damascus, who had been a +fellow-_katib_ of my uncle’s, and who occupied a high post in the service +of the Pasha. + +To this worthy man’s care I was confided; and, taking leave of my dear +parents, and accompanied by their blessing, I left Beyrout, and proceeded +to Damascus; a city which existed before the patriarch Abraham’s time, +being referred to as a well-known place, in Gen. xiv. It was the chief +city of Syria, founded by Rezin, and was sacked by Jeroboam II., king of +Israel. It is still a comparatively thriving and populous city, and has +those natural resources of climate, soil, and abundance of water, which +cannot fail to perpetuate its fame as the garden of the East. Here, +shortly after my arrival, I was fortunate enough, through the influence +of our friend, to procure a lucrative and rising situation. At this +place I remained a considerable time, delighted with its climate and +beauty, as also well pleased with my office and with my associates. + +No pen can give an adequate idea of the delights of Damascus. The +nearest approach I can hope to make to a truthful description, will be +simply to depict what I saw and experienced; and this perhaps will give +the stranger a better conception of the place than the flowery rhapsodies +of many of those writers, whose experience, resulting from a visit of a +few days, has been skilfully converted into some dozen chapters of post +octavo. + +Damascus, like most Eastern towns, has nothing to boast of in the outside +appearance of its rough unwhitewashed houses. Its streets are narrow, +dark and intricate—crowds of people—caravans of camels—mules—and troops +of donkeys—are all perpetually on the move, though not with that rapidity +of locomotion so striking to a foreigner on his first visit to London. + +The stranger is struck dumb with amazement and disappointment. He has +heard so much and he sees so little, that his first exclamation is sure +to be, “Can this really be Sham-al Sharif?—the much praised Damascus;—the +so-styled paradise of the East!” Yes, stranger, this is the justly +celebrated Damascus; but the secret cause of your amazement lies hid as +the kernel in the shell of a nut, the outer surface of which is the walls +of the houses, while within lies concealed the sweet kernel. Open the +street-door of rough and unpolished wood; and after carefully closing the +same, as if by magic, the whole train of your thoughts and your +discontentment will be diverted into another channel, and you will be +struck with surprise and admiration, as the hidden beauties of the city +will then burst upon your view. The same may be said with regard to the +ladies of Damascus, notoriously the handsomest women in the East—Houris, +whose bright eyes have afforded an endless theme for the poet’s song! +Forms carefully enveloped in white and coloured _izars_—features muffled +up and completely disguised by white veils! That man must needs be a +magician who could identify even his own wife or sister from amidst the +herd of ghostly figures continually flitting to and fro in the streets; +though now and then some Eastern _akruti_ (coquette), may even here be +found slily contriving to allow the light of her sparkling eyes to beam +through this dark screen. Here also is the same mystery, and the beauty +lies concealed within the outer shell. + +Now standing in a spacious quadrangle, exquisitely paved with marble, we +take a hasty survey of all around us. In the centre is a square basin of +clear crystal-like water, in which gold and silver fish are playfully +swimming about; and in the middle of this _birkat_ a fountain continually +throws its sportive jets to return in showers of pearls upon the many +pretty little flowers that are planted round the borders. An arcade, +supported by elegant columns, runs round three sides; and the fourth side +of the quadrangle is occupied by the lower apartments of the house. The +_corna_ (or cornices), are all ornamented with Arabic inscriptions, both +in poetry and prose, being invariably Scripture texts. {21a} In little +_fistakiares_, or parterres, walled in with marble slabs, a few choice +orange and lemon trees are carefully cultivated; and it is difficult to +say whether the sweet odour of their blossoms is not rivalled, or even +surpassed, by the delicious fragrance of the roses and rich _Baghdad ful_ +(or dwarf jessamine), which so thickly cluster about their roots. Of the +interior of such a mansion no one could have given a better idea than did +His Excellency Mahomed Pasha, {21b} the late ambassador to the court of +St. James’s, who, during his residence in London, gave several balls, +having some of the apartments at the Embassy, so fitted up, as exactly to +resemble the interior of a house at Damascus. These rooms were the +leading topic of chit chat among the fashionables of London for many +weeks afterwards. + +I must crave the reader’s permission to conduct him into one of these +houses; and in so doing to introduce him to the _mistaba_, or alcove, in +the centre, from the back of which two trellised windows overlook a +spacious fruit garden. A low divan runs round its three sides, while a +soft carpet covers the marble floor. The cushions, and even the divan +itself, are of the richest velvet stuffs: and the numerous _étagères_ in +the _mistaba_ are filled with costly glass-ware, crystal cups, and +elegant porcelain vases. On each side is a tray, covered with a snowy +napkin, the edges worked with gold and silver flowers, upon one are +handsome _finjans_ in filigree, silver coffee-cups and sugar-basins; on +the other, cut-glass saucers full of delicious candied sweetmeats, of +which the orange-flower, violet and rose are the most fragrant. Both +trays rest on low stools, the feet of which are elegantly carved. One of +the adjoining rooms is fitted up with handsome _narghilies_, and long +pipes with amber mouth-pieces of great value. In this room there is also +a small _mangal_, or brazier, in which a charcoal fire is perpetually +burning for the double purpose of boiling the often-required coffee, and +of supplying the smokers with fire for their pipes, or _narghilies_. +Servants are constantly in attendance in this room, and the arrival of a +visitor is the signal for activity amongst them. Lemonade is first +offered, and then smoking materials are put in requisition; after this, +the sweetmeats are handed round; and lastly, coffee is served. {22} + +In a Pasha’s house, when people call on official business, the appearance +of coffee is a quiet hint to be off, or in other words, denotes a +termination of that morning’s visit. The visitor sips his coffee, +returns the _finjan_ to the attendant slave, touches heart, mouth and +head to the Pasha, and then bows himself out. The room opposite to this +smoking apartment, is usually the dormitory of the servants; its outside +appearance is handsome, and the closed door is tastefully carved and +painted, but the interior is by no means inviting—heaps of mattrasses are +piled up on all sides, and perchance even a small store of provisions for +domestic consumption. In this respect this lumber-room is quite +different to the usual appearance of things in Damascus, for the outside +is the best-looking part of it. So much for the interior of the houses; +now let us see how the ladies look when they are within doors, and have +laid aside the _izar_ and odious black handkerchief. We will first +describe the daughter of the host; a very fair specimen of her sex in +Damascus. Her eyes are beautifully dark, her eyelashes, eyebrows, and +hair, of a glossy jet black, the latter tinged with _henna_, hangs down +her back and reaches nearly to the ground in a succession of plaits, each +terminating with black silk braid, knotted and interwoven with various +sized golden coins, her features (excepting the eyes) are all small but +compact. The nose is Grecian, the lips cherry, and slightly pouting, the +chin dimpled, the form of the face oval, and the complexion clear with a +rosy tint. The bust and figure are unexceptionable, the arms comely, the +wrists and ankles well turned, and the feet and hands perfect models for +a sculptor; yet this is one out of the many nondescript beings that we +encountered out of doors covered with _izar_ and veil. Her face and +figure are well set off by the head-dress and Oriental costume. On the +top of her head she wears a small red cap, which is encircled by a +handsomely flowered handkerchief, and over the latter strings of pearls +and pieces of small gold money are tastefully arranged in festoons. In +the centre of her red cap is a diamond crescent, from which hangs a long +golden cord, with a blue silk tassel, usually ornamented with pearls: her +vest fits tight, and admirably displays the unlaced figure. In summer, +this vest is of blue or pink satin, bordered and fringed with gold lace; +in winter, cloth, edged with fur, is substituted for the satin; and over +the vest is worn a short grey jacket, chastely embroidered with black +silk braid. The vest is confined to the waist by a _zunnar_, in summer, +of a silk Tripoli scarf, in winter by a costly Cashmere shawl; and from +under this a long robe reaches to her ankles, and is divided into two +long lappels, lined with satin, and fringed with costly trimmings. This +latter robe partially conceals the _shirwal_, or full trowsers, which +hang loosely over, and are fastened round the ankles; the tastey mixture +of colors, and the graceful arrangement renders the costume a perfect +study. Latterly, European shoes have been much used by the Damascene +ladies, especially those gaily-flowered kid shoes, imported into Syria +from Marseilles. This completes the young lady’s toilet, and her walk +and action are as graceful as her figure and face are prepossessing; but +beyond the _naam_ (yes) and _la_ (no) of conversation, you can seldom get +a word from her unless you are a very intimate friend of the family, and +then these young ladies are as fond of a little romping or quizzing as +their more accomplished and more elegant sisters of the North. It is a +mistake to imagine that the men of the Turkish empire are wholly excluded +from any friendly intercourse with the women of those countries, a tale +which has gained credence, and been perseveringly maintained by +travellers, few of whom have ever had an opportunity of testing the truth +of the report by personal experience. In fact, in my opinion, the +Eastern ladies have really far more liberty than their Northern sisters, +inasmuch as they are able when veiled with the _izar_, to go where they +please. These _izars_ being of the same form and colour, it is almost +impossible to identify an individual; and a man may pass even his own +wife, without recognising her. In illustration of this, I am tempted to +give the following story, for the authenticity of which I can vouch. The +wife of a Mahomedan merchant, of Cairo, suspecting her husband, paid him +a visit in his shop, accompanied, as is usual, by a duenna, both +enveloped in the folds of their _izars_. During the visit, while +inspecting some muslin, the lady contrived to indulge the amatory +merchant with a glimpse of her large dark eyes, which completely +enchanted her unconscious lord. An interview was brought about, through +the agency of the old woman; and the astonished husband discovered to his +dismay, in the charmer, the features of his piqued and angry helpmate. + +Amongst the higher classes of Christians in particular, every freedom +exists in doors; young ladies not only shew themselves, but, after +serving the guest with coffee and sweetmeats, they will seat themselves +on the edge of the divan, and soon manage to join in the conversation. +This state of freedom exists to a greater or less degree till the young +girl is betrothed; then it is not considered decorous that she should be +present whenever her intended bridegroom visits the house, neither should +she hear his name mentioned. Even amongst Turks, and more especially in +the villages and smaller towns of Syria, the young Mahomedan sees and +converses with the future object of his love, until she attains her +eleventh or twelfth year, she is then excluded from the society of men; +but womanhood has already begun to develop itself in the person of the +girl of ten or eleven years old in these climates where they are +oftentimes wives and mothers at thirteen. Hence love exists between the +young couple before the destined bridegroom urges his mother to make the +requisite proposals of marriage. He loses sight of his lady-love as soon +as she enters upon womanhood, though he may, by means of a third party, +catch an occasional glimpse of her features as she passes to and fro, +strictly guarded by matrons and old duennas; but not a single word or one +bewitching kiss can the despairing lover hope for until she is brought +home to his house, his lawful consort and partner for life; then, and not +till then, commences the great seclusion of the ladies of the Turkish +hareem. Even in country places and villages, though the newly-married +bride may be strictly guarded for a year or two, this feeling eventually +wears off, and the women mix in the every-day occupations of the field or +in the garden, unveiled and undistinguishable from their Christian +neighbours. Of late years especially much progress has been made in this +branch of civilisation, arising from the example set by the sultan’s +ladies themselves at Stamboul, and by the increase of European ladies at +Beyrout and other towns in Syria, often travelling about the country, and +who, though unveiled, enjoy a high reputation for virtue and honesty, +convincing proof to the Turks, that the face, which is the mirror of the +heart, was meant to be studied as an example, not as a concealed vessel +of craft and guile. + +But to return to Damascus. We have now taken a brief survey of the +court-yards and lower portion of the houses; and having been served with +sweetmeats by the pretty young lady, we follow the matron of the house up +stairs, to reach which we have to cross the yard, for there is no +communication between the lower and upper story, and we must pass into +the arcade for the steps. Now that we have reached the upper story, +there is a room on either side of the _mistaba_ communicating with a +gallery: and these rooms are the sleeping apartments of the family in +winter. In summer they serve as dressing-rooms and as a receptacle for +the mattresses, etc., that are nightly spread on the top of the house for +the family to sleep upon; for in summer almost every one sleeps on the +terrace, from the lord and master of the house and the lowest menial down +to the very cats and dogs, whose instinct causes them to seek for +coolness in the more elevated parts of the house. These rooms are gaily +painted, but contain little or no furniture; a divan or so, a mirror, +some flower-vases, and ladies’ nic-nacs; these constitute the furniture. +Mounting up to the terrace, we come upon a belvidere, surrounded on three +sides by a wall lofty enough to prevent the possibility of the tallest +man accidentally over-looking his neighbour’s court-yard; on the fourth +side there is a wooden railing, from which we command a view of our own +court-yard, catching a glimpse of some of the famed gardens of Damascus +in the distance. + +The bazars of the city, crowded with busy purchasers, present a bustling +scene to the stranger. After Constantinople, Damascus claims precedence +for the quantity and richness of the stuffs displayed for sale in its +bazars from all countries in the world. Indian manufactures, spices of +Arabia, coffee from Mocha, and endless European wares, are hourly +bartered and sold. The scent of sandal-wood and myrrh, the _attar_ of +Mecca, the Indian’s curry ingredients, the rich drugs of the apothecary, +the smoky perfumes of the scented _narghili_ and pipe of _Jabaliy_ +tobacco; all these tend to confuse and stupify the bewildered European, +who, pushing his way through the dense multitude, follows us into a +native restaurant, where iced lemonade and sweetmeats are tantalisingly +exposed for sale. The pleasant cold water, playing in artificial jets, +turns a small tin watermill, hung with little silver bells, whose +pleasant music first attracts the attention of the busy stranger. Here, +seated for a moment, we enjoy the passing scene, and are vastly refreshed +by the good things around us. Among these we may notice a pleasant +beverage, and one very much in request: it is made by bruising a certain +quantity of raisins, on which water is poured; the liquid is afterwards +strained, and ice is added to render it cool. The place is crowded with +a thirsty multitude, all eager to partake of this; but the swarms of +flies that alight on one’s face and hands, make quiet and repose +completely out of the question; so we are up again, and hurrying through +the bazars towards the environs of the city. The day is too hot and the +distance too great for a walk, so we hire horses and a native cicerone. + +The beauty of the environs of Damascus I can only compare to some lovely +landscape of fancy’s brightest imagining, in which is combined every rich +and bountiful gift of Providence—flowers, fruits, waters, hills, plains, +rivers; a cloudless, blue sky; a rich, brilliant sunlight; and the +delicious zephyr breathing soft freshness over the scene. It may well be +believed by the zealous Mussulmans of Damascus, that Mahomed, {28} as he +beheld it from the western hills, declined to enter into the city, lest +the luxurious richness of this earthly Paradise might induce him to +forget the existence of another and an eternal one. Skilfully did the +prophet make a virtue of necessity in this instance. He well knew his +incapability of besieging the city. I am inclined to think that, had it +been otherwise, Mahomed was far too eager after earthly enjoyments to +have relinquished so fair a spot. + +Our guide fails not to point out to us two branches of the Barrada, +reckoned to be Abana and Pharpar, rivers which Naaman, the leper, thought +better than the waters of Jordan. The lions to be seen at Damascus are +numerous. Amongst these, we visit the _Bab il Gharbi_, where Tamerlane +heaped up a pyramid of heads after taking the city by storm; then the +monument called _Nabiy Abel_, marking, it is said, the identical spot +where Cain slew his innocent brother. The name of the city is presumed +by some to be derived from this event, the word _damm_ signifying +“blood”; but I must confess, I cannot see much ground for this +presumption. If any truth be attached to this tradition, our first +parents cannot well have wandered far from the lovely Garden of Eden when +this first tragedy occurred; and Eden must have been situated to the west +of Damascus, as it is said, that the angel of the Lord guarded the east +end of the garden—a proof that our first parents were sent out eastward, +and could only endeavour to return from that side. Some natives imagine +that the Hammah and Hums of the present day are on the site of the +beautiful garden of gardens. The eastern gate of the city, now walled +up, is where St. Paul is supposed to have been let down in a basket; they +shew us the very house from which he is said to have escaped. The +Christian cemetery, containing the tomb of St. George, and the arch where +St. Paul hid himself on escaping from Damascus; the wide road beyond the +cemetery, still highly reverenced as the spot of the miraculous +conversion; all these were familiar to me during my long stay in this +fair city; and I mention them here for the benefit of strangers visiting +the spot. + +During the summer evenings, the friends, at whose house I was staying, +gave frequent entertainments to their numerous acquaintances amongst the +inhabitants of Damascus. On these occasions, the ladies of the different +families honoured us with their presence, and occasionally some of the +European consuls and merchants were invited. A description of one +evening party will describe the whole. First, then, we will introduce +the stranger into the house where the _farah_ (feast) is to be held. +Women are busily occupied washing out and sweeping the court-yard; the +flowers and other plants are fresh watered; the marble fountain is +decorated with coloured lanterns and festoons of flowers; carpets are +spread, and divan cushions ranged against the wall; the _mistaba_ is +tastefully lighted, and a highly inflammable torch, composed of the fat +wood of fir, resin, and other ingredients, is planted in each of the four +corners. In the smoking apartment of the _mistaba_, preparations are +making on a grand scale. Large bags of ready-washed and prepared +_timbac_ are hung upon nails in the wall, to filter and to be fit for +immediate use when the _narghilies_ are called into requisition. Tobacco +pouches are filled. Two additional _mangals_ of charcoal fire, and some +additional coffee-pots are prepared. Decanters are filled with _arraki_, +wine, liqueurs, orange-flower, and rose-water; and the cut-glass saucers +replenished with candied preserves; whilst two maid-servants and a boy, +assisted and superintended by the mistress of the house, are busy +grinding coffee and decocting huge bowls of deliciously-iced lemonade. +In addition to all this, a side-table is groaning under the weight of +plates of sliced oranges and picked pomegranates, with numerous other +fruits, and a great variety of pastry. By the time all these +arrangements are completed the night sets in; the whole yard is +illuminated; the members of the household and the servants are busily +engaged donning their best attire, and the company of hired musicians +arrive. The music striking up, is the signal for the nearest invited +neighbours to make their appearance. They arrive, the men clad in long, +loose silken robes; the women enveloped in their white _izars_; but these +latter are speedily thrown aside at the invitation of the lady of the +house, who assists in helping the guests to disrobe, and then confides +their _izars_ to the trusty care of the handmaiden. + +Now these veils are all of the same make, and they have no initials or +other distinguishing mark. Notwithstanding this, no confusion ensues on +the breaking up of a party as to identification, every lady is quick to +recognise her own peculiar _izar_ from the mass of white sheets that are +folded and piled one above another upon the divan in the upstairs +dressing-room. Soon the whole party have arrived, and the amusements of +the evening commence with vocal and instrumental music. After this, some +of the gentlemen stand up and go through the graceful attitudes of the +Syrian dance, then some others volunteer the sword dance, or the Bedouin +dance, some of the married ladies then take courage; but it requires +coaxing and threats to induce the timid damsel to display her skill. +Persuasion being out of the question, some old gentleman gets up and +pretends that he is going to dance instead of her, and he goes through a +few steps till he comes close up to some girl that he has singled out +from the circle. Seizing her arm with no very gentle force, he whirls +into the centre of the yard, and meanwhile, some one who has watched the +manœuvre, acts the same part by some other blushing maiden. These are +confronted face to face, and there is now no escape, so they commence at +first timidly and bashfully, but getting gradually excited by the music, +they lose all this pretended bashfulness, and do their best to outshine +each other; and truly there is rarely a more graceful sight than two +beautiful Damascene girls, elegantly dressed and bespangled with jewels, +displaying their graceful figures to the best advantage, to the slow but +becoming measures of the dance. All the other young ladies now follow +their example, and as each couple retires at the termination of their +efforts to please, they are hailed with shouts of applause, and liberally +besprinkled with rose and orange-flower water. The old ladies evince +their approbation by a peculiar vibrating scream, produced by the voice +passing through the nearly closed lips, whilst the under lip is kept in a +continual tremulous state by the rapid application of the back of the +forefinger to that feature. When dancing is over for the evening, +sometimes games of forfeit are introduced, and promote much mirth, +especially one game called “_Tuthun Tuthun_, _min Tuthun_”—a game of +Turkish origin, as its name denotes, and which is played thus:—Every one +in the circle takes the name of a bird, a tree, or a flower, whilst the +king of the game goes round and collects in a handkerchief some small +article from each one present. These he afterwards shuffles together, +and then drawing one out, which he carefully conceals in his hand, he +fixes upon some one in the circle, to whom he puts the question “_Tuthun +Tuthun_, _min Tuthun_?” or, “Tobacco tobacco, whose is it?” The party +fixed upon is obliged to guess, and he names some bird or flower which he +heard some one call himself; if the guess is wrong, he has to hold out +his hand and receive three stripes from a closely knotted handkerchief, +and then the party referred to is next obliged to guess to whom the +“_Tuthun_” belongs, and so on all round the circle till the right name +has been discovered. Then the king resigns his post and handkerchief, +and is relieved in office by him or her that made the right guess. + +After these games some one tells a story or recites a poem, a specimen of +which I am enabled to introduce, literally translated. + + I’ve gazed on many eyes, that shine + As bright; none ever yet so well + Have answered to my heart as thine, + My lovely, little, dear gazelle. + + Oh give me but one smile, to tell + Of pity from those gentle eyes: + The thought shall ever with me dwell, + My love you did not all despise. + + You move in beauty, while each charm + Subdues the more my amorous soul, + Until my fainting spirits warm + To strength beneath thy sweet control. + + Hear then my prayer, to you alone + I bow—Let those who know me not, + Mock, if they will, at pangs unknown: + Your smile, though false, is ne’er forgot. + + Mine eyes have often wearied long + To catch thine image passing by; + My saddened spirit grew more strong, + With thee one moment in mine eye. + + But oh, if love should ever seek + Its seat within that beauteous breast, + Drive it afar; you see it wreak + On me its power to poison rest. + + For bound beneath thy beauty’s sway, + My days in wasting sadness roll; + Though deaf to all, this dust can say, + You’ll meet in heaven, my parted soul. + + Deign but my fevered heart to cool, + With but one passing word of hope, + Then shall my tortured spirit school + Itself, with all beside to cope. + + But thought is useless, words are vain; + And my bewildered mind can fling + No effort from this maddening brain, + That can to thee its image bring. + + For disappointed and beguiled, + I will not spend another sigh; + If you had never on me smiled, + No tear had ever dimmed mine eye. + +I will now endeavour to give my readers a specimen of an original Arabic +tale in the familiar and colloquial style of these Oriental storytellers +so famed for their amusing delivery and gesticulation. + + + +THE STORY OF THE JINN AND THE SCOLDING WIFE. + + +Once upon a time, many years ago, when good people were rather scarce +upon the earth, and such men as Noah had ceased to exist, there dwelt a +certain poor man at the city of Aleppo, whose name was—I forgot now +exactly what; but as his heirs might not take it in good part, we had +best leave the name-part of the business alone altogether. However, he +was fortunate enough to pick up with a pretty little wife, whose smiles, +so thought the lover, were like the dew of Hermon; instead of which, they +proved to be very mildew in every sense of the word. Yusuf—so was the +man called, but, I forgot, we must not mention it—married the fair +Ankafir. First week, honey and kaymak, and everything nice and sweet; +second week, necklaces and other jewellery required; third week, funds +low, dinners scant, temper sour; fourth week, squalls matrimonial from +morning to night, from night to morning. + +“I tell you what it is, my dear,” quoth Yusuf, “either you must leave off +blowing up, or I must take to bastinadoing: so just you choose the least +evil.” + +To hear her talk of his inhumanity—to hear her talk of her rich relations +and their influence with the Pasha—to hear her storm about broken hearts, +and, what is a great deal more serious and matter-of-fact, broken heads—I +say, to hear her jabber about all this, was enough to turn a quiet, +sober-minded man into a misanthrope for life; but, to feel the argument +in the shape of sundry manipulations, cuffs on the ear, scratches, etc., +this was beyond the endurance of a martyr; so thought Yusuf, so did his +friends, and so did the evil counsellors that recommended him to resort +to the use of water as an only alternative. + +Now, I don’t mean to say, mind you, that they suggested, that water, as +an every-day kind of a beverage, was likely to be productive of very +beneficial effects; neither did they hint that arraki and water, though +this latter has often done the job, would facilitate in ridding Yusuf of +his incubus. The river Euphrates was thought deep enough—a casualty in +the upset of a boat, plausible. The desperate husband took the hint. +One day he had a headache. Next day, change of air was thought +requisite, and the water-side recommended. He went to Berijek thence to +the river-side. A friendly old boatman hired him a boat and his own +personal services, and + + “Upon the stream they got ’em. + The wind blew high; he blew his nose, + And—sent her to the bottom.” + +She sunk, never again to rise, and the light-hearted husband leaped out +of the boat and strolled along the river-side. + +By and bye, a damp-looking old customer, half Neptune, half I don’t know +what you may call it, comes walking up the river, just as coolly as a +ship of war might float on the ocean, and as fresh as though he had only +just got in for a dip, instead of having floated ever so many hundred +miles. + +“Salām alaykum,” says Yusuf, “I hope you’re well.” + +“Peace, thou son of a swine,” says the stranger; “What do you mean by +sending her there to bother us?” + +“Who is it you mean, sir?” + +“Who,” said the fierce little man, who was nothing more or less than the +Jinn, or Spirit of the Water, “why her, to be sure, that vixen of a wife +of yours, who has completely defiled the water. Why there is no peace +any more in those regions, and I have come forth to take a signal +vengeance on you: now choose what death you like—hanging, tearing to +pieces, or impaling.” + +“Sir,” said Yusuf, very humbly, “if you, who are possessed of so much +power, cannot control her temper, how could I, a miserable mortal, hope +to manage her?” + +There was so much truth in this assertion, that the Jinn calmed down +amazingly. “My friend,” quoth he, “I see you’re a sensible man; you and +I will henceforth unite our fortunes; so just have the kindness to step +upon my shoulders, and we will be off like a lightning-flash for +Baghdad.” Yusuf did as he was desired; and in the course of the next +hour they were safely housed in Baghdad. Now the Caliph had an only +daughter, who was reported beautiful as the morning star. + +“Would you like to have her,” quoth the Jinn, “for a wife?” + +“Who, me, sir; I am very much obliged to you,” quoth Yusuf; “but I don’t +exactly see how that is to be accomplished.” + +“Oh, I will manage that part of the matter. You pass yourself off for a +great _hakeem_. I will coil myself round the girl’s neck in the shape of +a most venomous snake with two heads. No one shall be able to approach +but you. You burn that bit of paper that I have written upon, and throw +the ashes into water, and as it is demolished, so will I gradually +disappear. The results will be the Caliph’s gratitude and his daughter’s +hand and heart.” + +Yusuf was very willing to do as he was bid. The feat was accomplished. +He married the girl and settled down for life in easy circumstances. +Some time after, the Jinn fell desperately in love with the Vizier’s +daughter, and displayed his attachment in the rather uncongenial form of +a viper. Now the Caliph had borne in mind the notoriety of his +son-in-law in this peculiar species of malady; so when the Vizier came +moaning and complaining that Yusuf would not go and cure his daughter, he +sent his compliments to Yusuf, with a silken cord and the alternative +carefully tied up in an embroidered pocket-handkerchief—of immediate +compliance with his will—an arsenic pill or strangulation. Yusuf had no +remedy, though he had faithfully promised the Jinn never to intrude upon +his felicity. He hit, however, upon a plausible excuse, and being +introduced into the presence of the Vizier’s daughter, he bent over her +neck and whispered to the Jinn— + +“I say, I’ve just dropped in to warn you that she is here in Baghdad, and +looking for you.” + +“Why, you don’t mean her?” said the alarmed Jinn. + +“But I do though, sure as you are a ghost.” + +“I say, you wont say where I am off to, will you,” says the Jinn; “but if +you will just pack up your salāms and any other light articles you may +wish to send to your friends, I’ll be happy to be the bearer. I’m off.” + +“Are you, though?” says Yusuf + +“Yes I am,” said the Jinn. + + “I’d rather stem an angry wave + Than meet a storming woman.” + +And so saying, he departed, and the Vizier’s daughter was healed. + + * * * * * + +Refreshments have been served at intervals; and the smoking has been +incessant, the married ladies, especially mothers of families, indulging +in whiffs at the _narghili_. It is considered unbecoming in a young lady +to smoke, and they never do so in public: but as they often serve the +_narghili_ to distinguished guests, they are compelled to take some +whiffs, as it is customary to present it lighted; and as this process +does not appear to make them feel unwell, we naturally imagine that on +the sly these young ladies frequently indulge themselves with a pipe. +This, kind reader, is a fair sample of the manner in which the Damascus +Christians amuse themselves during the evening. + +Once Mr. Farren, the then British Consul-General at Damascus, gave a +grand entertainment to celebrate the king’s birth-day. To this, my +relative and myself were invited, in common with several of the Mahomedan +chiefs and Christian inhabitants of Damascus, who were utterly astounded +at the magnificent display of European luxury. The rooms were decorated +with flags of all nations, and splendidly furnished _à l’Anglaise_; and +it was probably the first _fête_ of the kind that many of these people +had ever witnessed. Every one was much charmed with the affable manners +of the Consul, and impressed with the wealth and dignity of the nation he +represented. And this kind of display was doubtless very beneficial in +curbing the fanatical hatred of the Damascus Mahomedans towards _Kuffar_ +in general, which, at that time, raged to such a pitch, that no Christian +could, without insult, traverse the streets of Damascus on horseback, +especially with a white turban, till the interpreter of Mr. Farren +ventured to break through the law. Amongst the Moslems in Syria, those +only who are direct descendants of the prophet, or who have accompanied +the Hajj or pilgrimage to Mecca, are permitted to wear a green turban, +the other Mahomedans a white one. In the mountains, it is worn +indiscriminately by all creeds. In Turkey, those born on Friday are +entitled to wear green. This fact surprised an English friend at +Constantinople, who seeing so many green turbans, and not being aware of +this latter circumstance, observed, that the prophet must have a large +family. + +During Ibrahim Pasha’s occupation of the country, he did much towards +bringing the haughty Mahomedans to a due appreciation of their own +nothingness; and the Damascus of to-day is very different to that of some +twenty years back. Now Christians, and even Jews, in garbs and costumes, +ride to and fro unmolested; and since the departure of the Egyptians, no +small share of praise is due to the energy and exertions of Mr. Richard +Wood, the present Consul, who is so much respected by the natives, as to +be distinguished amongst them by the Turkish title of Bey, and who has +successfully persevered in maintaining the privileges afforded to +residents and strangers of all creeds, under the iron sway of Ibrahim +Pasha. + +Whilst at Damascus, we heard the following story, characteristic of the +manner in which Ibrahim Pasha sometimes administered retributive justice. +A rich Mahomedan, who was an invalid, desired to make the pilgrimage to +Mecca; but being prevented by his health, he offered to defray all the +expenses of a poor and pious neighbour, provided he would undertake this +journey for him. The poor man agreed to do so; and previous to his +departure, he deposited his money, and the few valuables of which he was +possessed, in a box, which he entrusted to the care of a friend, who was +a banker. On his return from Mecca, the box was restored to him, but +upon opening it, he discovered that the contents had been taken out. The +man immediately went and laid his complaint before the Cadi, who ordered +the banker to be brought before him. The accused, placing his hand on +the Koran, swore that he had taken neither the money nor the rest of the +property from the box; such a solemn declaration was considered +unquestionable, and the poor man lost his cause. Being utterly ruined, +he wandered about the city in despair; when one day, whilst seated +outside the gate of Damascus, he observed Ibrahim Pasha on horseback. He +immediately ran to him, and seizing his bridle-rein, stated his case to +the Pasha, and fully described his sorrows and the ill-usage which he had +received. Ibrahim Pasha listened to his story, and bestowing on him a +few piastres, said, “After seven days come to me.” In the meanwhile, +inquiries were made regarding the banker, and hearing that he had a son +at a certain school, the Pasha went in disguise, accompanied by his +secretary, and contrived to win the friendship and confidence of the +master. One day, whilst the professor and his scholars were taking their +customary siesta, the merchant’s son was carried off, and a young bear +deposited in the place which the boy had occupied. When the rest awoke, +great was their surprise at seeing such an animal amongst them; but their +consternation was even greater, when after the lapse of a short time, the +merchant’s son was nowhere to be found. The terror of the professor, and +the affliction of the father, may easily be imagined. In his anger, the +bereaved parent applied to Ibrahim Pasha, and demanded that the heaviest +and most severe penalty should be inflicted on the master for his seeming +negligence. “I know where your son is,” said the Pasha, “he is safe, and +when you return the money and property which you have taken from the box +of your friend, your child shall be restored to you.” The contents of +the box were given up, and the banker was beheaded. + +The Roman Catholics have made comparatively few converts in Damascus, and +the mysterious disappearance, a few years since, of Padre Tomaso and his +servant, acts as a check upon the Jesuits, who mostly avoid those places +where every security is not afforded, and where great temporal advantages +do not accompany the success of their efforts at conversion. + +By the last published report of the British and Foreign Bible Society, +the heart is cheered with the intelligence, that there are now +established at Damascus three American and two Irish Missionaries. May +their efforts be crowned with success; for Damascus is said to contain +about 140,000 inhabitants, all, more or less, superstitiously ignorant +and blind to the blessed light of the gospel! + + + + +CHAPTER IV. +THE AMERICAN MISSIONARIES AT BEYROUT. + + +After a residence of upwards of two years at Damascus, I was suddenly, in +the spring of the year, recalled to Beyrout, this latter town having, in +my absence, grown into considerable importance as a commercial sea-port. +The traffic with European countries daily augmenting, had given an +impetus to several enterprising young Syrians, who wished to acquire a +knowledge of European languages; and as precedents were not wanting of +this knowledge having led to preferment and subsequent opulence, my +friends conceived the idea of placing me under the care of some of the +excellent American Missionaries, for tuition in English and other +European languages. It was not without reluctance that I obeyed the +mandate of my friends, but as implicit obedience to their will was a +primary consideration, bidding adieu to my many kind acquaintances, I +retraced my steps, and in the course of a few days was once again in the +bosom of my own dear family. The Americans have always numbered amongst +their fraternity a medical officer; and it was mainly attributable to +this fact, that myself, as well as many other Syrian lads, were happily +blessed with the opportunity of receiving a good moral education. I was +just entering on my sixteenth year when I first joined the American +school; still too young to have any deeply rooted prejudices or ideas, +though luckily old enough to appreciate the value of the opportunity thus +afforded me, and consequently to endeavour to profit by it as much as lay +in my power; but I must here explain how it happened that a physician +was, through the blessing of Providence, the means of gaining for us so +priceless a boon. When the American Missionaries first arrived in Syria, +their advent gave rise to conjecture and suspicion among the natives. +Bishops and priests warned their congregations to be on the alert, and +guard against any efforts made by the Missionaries to convert the people; +these admonitions and warnings were strengthened by reports spread by the +crafty emissaries of the Pope, which were as false as they were +calumnious. It was no part of Roman Catholic policy to countenance the +good endeavours of these Missionaries to enlighten the natives of the +country, by the establishment of schools and circulation of the holy word +of God, as contained in Arabic Bibles, printed by the Church Missionary +Society in London. Heretofore, the Papists had to grapple only with the +superstitious but simple-minded followers of the Eastern Church. In +Aleppo and Beyrout, they had already Syrian Roman Catholics, whose +talents were employed to hinder the work of the Missionaries; but now +they had formidable opponents to combat with—men as infinitely their +superiors in wisdom and acquirements, as they were religiously steadfast, +and persevering with all humility and patience to carry out their ends, +for the accomplishment of which, they had left their distant country, and +sacrificed home and every comfort. What the Roman Catholics had most to +dread, was the establishment of Protestant schools, a measure which they +clearly foresaw would tend to their ultimate confusion and defeat, and to +overthrow which they left no means untried. Had not the Americans been +possessed of great Christian patience, and matured sound judgment, they +could not possibly have succeeded; but time proved their deeds and +actions to be the purest; their morals, precepts, and examples, above +praise; the blessing of God was with them, and they watched and prayed +continually. At length an opportunity presented itself; and they, like +careful sentries, availed themselves of it, and from that time up to the +present date their schools have gone on progressing, and though they have +not succeeded in making many converts, they have prevented much evil by +their watchful care over the natives. Sickness is a leveller of many +prejudices; and this is more particularly the case in Syria, where +physicians are scarce and must be selected without regard to creed. From +time immemorial the natives have placed implicit faith in the skill of +Frank _hakeems_. Of late years I am sorry to say the Turkish empire has +been inundated with numbers of soi-disant physicians, many of whom are +political refugees and renegades, uneducated, and totally ignorant of the +profession they have assumed, and have, by virtue of a piece of parchment +(forged or purchased) and a few drugs, foisted themselves upon the notice +of Syrians, as eminent practitioners; but their exorbitant charges and +unsuccessful practice soon opened the eyes of the people as to their real +position, yet not before these charlatans had worked out for their +medical brethren so foul a reputation, that the natives have become +suspicious of all new-comers, and would rather have recourse to the +simple remedies prescribed by the village herb doctor, than entrust their +lives to be experimentalised upon by foreign quacks. + +Apropos of this I may mention an anecdote that was related to me by Mr. +Edward Zohrab, the respected Turkish Consul-General in London. This +gentleman, once travelling in the interior of Turkey, had the misfortune +to fall ill at a remote village where all hopes of succour were despaired +of; whilst debating with the Sheikh of the village on the feasibility of +despatching an express messenger to the nearest large town in search of +medical aid, there arrived, most opportunely, a European traveller who +had taken up his lodgings for the night at the public khan of the +village; this grandee’s servant soon spread the fame of his master in the +place. + +“He is,” said he, “the only learned Frank physician in Turkey. He has +been _hakeem_ to all the great _pad-shahs_ of Europe, and is only +travelling here to find some rare drugs and medicinal stones for the +great emperor of Moscof.” + +“Is he?” said the delighted Sheikh, who had rushed to seek aid from the +stranger. “Then for Allah’s sake bring him with all speed to my +residence; for there is a _miri liwa_ dying there of fever; and if +anything happens in my house what’s to become of me and my family?” + +The learned physician accompanied the Sheikh to his house, and in him Mr. +Zohrab discovered, to his utter amazement and discomfort, the person of a +once respectable Italian ship-chandler who had carried on business some +years back at Constantinople, but who, subsequently failing, had donned +the cap and cloak of a mountebank, and went about quacking the natives. +It is needless to say that the discomfited doctor made a precipitate +retreat from the village. But to return to the subject after this +digression, the good done by the American physician was peculiarly +instanced in my own family. + +A very near relative lay grievously ill at Beyrout—every effort of the +native _hakeem_ to give him sleep proved abortive. Native astrologers +came, and writing down the names and number of letters in each name of +the patient and of his mother, multiplied and divided the sum total, and +then tearing up the paper into fine shreds, swallowed the whole; but even +this magic failed. After much discussion, it was finally determined, +much to the disgust of my clerical uncle, to summon the American doctor, +with whom or with whose brethren my family had heretofore carefully +avoided intercourse. + +The doctor came—his mild gentle demeanour—his soft sweet words of +consolation—his consummate skill—and his great talents as a man of +learning—all these gained for him the deepest respect and regard, whilst +his indefatigable attention to the invalid claimed our gratitude. We, in +common with our neighbours, had entertained a vulgar prejudice against +this good man, because it was generally asserted that wherever he could +introduce himself under the cloak of his profession, to the sick and +dying, he invariably profited by the opportunity to sow discord amongst +the members of the family, by propagating doctrines strangely at variance +with their creed. How false these accusations—how gross the calumnies +heaped upon him, and through whose agency they had originated, now became +clear to my family and their friends, and we now esteemed these kind +Americans the better from a sense of having unjustly injured them, though +it were only in thought. During my relative’s long and dangerous illness +the doctor’s kindness was above praise—he never intruded a single +question or made any reference to difference of creeds; but when the +patient was convalescent, and when he saw that his visits were no longer +necessary, on taking leave of us the doctor distributed a few tracts on +religious subjects, for perusal amongst ourselves and neighbours, begging +us at our leisure to do so. Had he done this before we had become +acquainted with his intrinsic worth and merits, the chances are that +these tracts would have been flung into the fire so soon as his back was +turned. Now, however, we all felt persuaded that so excellent a man +could never be guilty of propagating anything that was not good and +moral. The result was that his gifts were treasured up and perused with +attention, and whenever the doctor paid us a friendly visit he brought +with him more delightful little stories; the print was so clear, the +pictures and binding so pretty, that these tracts were much prized, and +very soon much sought after. The children of the native Christians and +those of the American missionaries became playmates; and the prejudices +that had barred the doors of the American school-room against the former +were gradually removed. It was at this period that I was sent for to +Beyrout; and a few weeks after my arrival I was duly installed as one +amongst other native students under the kind tuition of Messrs. Goodall +and Whiting of the mission. + +I can never sufficiently express my deep sense of gratitude to these two +excellent gentlemen. Under them I acquired the rudiments of a good +general education; and as my knowledge of their language grew apace, I +was afforded free access to such books, both amusing and instructive, as +were well calculated to engraft a thirst after knowledge and develop the +understanding. Generally speaking, all the native scholars, sooner or +later, comprehended the wide difference existing between the Gospel +truths as expounded in the Roman churches, and the true sense and +comprehensive meaning of the Word of God as contained in the holy Bible, +such as it was our custom to peruse, morning, noon, and night. We +discovered that the Bible was a pleasant book, full of entertaining +history and adventure, and abounding with illustrations of the marvelous +mercy and love of the Creator for the creature; and that this book should +be forbidden by the Romish priests at first appeared to us singular; then +very wrong: and ultimately we felt convinced that in so doing they were +guilty of a heinous offence. + +My education consisted in simple lessons, reading, writing, and +arithmetic. However I made no great progress in worldly knowledge; but +the precepts and examples of my kind instructors were, I trust, a good +seed sown in season; they took root in the tender soil of childish +simplicity; grew up with our growth and ripened with the years of +maturity; and I humbly hope that, with the blessing of the Almighty, they +may never hereafter be choked by those _tares_ sown by Satan—the sinful +vanities and pleasures of this world. + +I remember, amongst the many anecdotes and incidents of those happy days, +one which made a deep impression upon myself and my fellow-students. +During the fruit season, as our school-house at Beyrout was situated +amongst the gardens, we boys made frequent excursions in the night to +pillage the neighbouring orchards of their superabundant loads of fruit; +this was a common practice amongst all the lads of the town of Beyrout; +and though doubtless very wrong, still fruit is so cheap and so plentiful +that, even when detected by the proprietors, our punishment rarely +exceeded a box or two on the ears, and many direful threats as to any +future offence. Notwithstanding these threats, however, the fruit was +too tempting to be so easily relinquished. {48} One night I sallied out +with several other of my schoolfellows, and amongst these a young chief +of the Druses, named Sheikh Ahmed,—a boy of undaunted courage, and who, +in after-years, as I will explain further on, was the means of saving the +life of one connected with the mission school. On this eventful night, +sentries had been set to watch our movements, and we were all taken in +the very act. The angry proprietor made us bear the brunt of all his +losses; and so, after being very roughly treated and deprived of all our +plunder, we were set free and permitted to run home again as best we +could, with rueful faces and aching limbs. + +By some means a report of this transaction had reached the +school-master’s ears by times next morning, though we were ignorant of +this fact till breakfast-time arrived; then, with keen appetites, we +resorted to our usual place at the breakfast-table, when lo! there were +nothing but plates turned bottom upwards laid for such amongst us as had +been engaged in the orchard-rifling affair. The rest of the boys, who +were well supplied with dainties, were quite at a loss to account for +this deficiency; but our guilty consciences plainly whispered to us the +motives for this punishment; we therefore, sneaked out of the room, +inwardly determined never to expose ourselves to such well-merited +treatment again; and we firmly adhered to our resolution. This silent +and mild method of punishing an offence had far more effect with us than +rougher treatment; and the chances are that if we had been publicly +upbraided, whipped, and tasked, we should not so quickly have mended. + +The Sheikh Ahmed, after having left school, whilst heading his own +people, the Druses, during the war in Lebanon, one day suddenly came upon +a group of angry villagers, who were about to wreak their vengeance upon +an unhappy traveller who had fallen into their hands. The young Sheikh +authoritatively interfered and swore by his beard no harm should be done +to him. In the traveller, to his astonishment and joy, Sheikh Ahmed +identified the Arabic professor of the mission school,—a simple, good +man, to whose care and tuition we were all much indebted, and who, having +been mistaken for a Maronite, was about falling a victim to mistaken +identity. The name of this intelligent and excellent man was Tannoos +Haddad, who had been converted to Christianity by the American +missionaries, and has since been ordained, and is now assisting in the +spread of the Gospel among his benighted countrymen. The head of the +school at that time was Mr. Hubbard, who a few years after died at Malta, +and many a young man now in Syria gratefully recalls his memory as having +been the means of their education and advancement both in temporal and +spiritual knowledge. + +At present, the following is a list of the missionaries at Beyrout:—Rev. +Eli Smith, D.D.; Rev. B. Whiting; H. A. D. Forest, M.D.; Mr. Hurtes, +superintendent of the printing department; Buttros Bistani, and Elias +Fowas, native helpers. No one has ever replaced the late Mr. Winbolt, +the much esteemed and regretted chaplain of Beyrout; and the Americans +are about to remove to the mountains. Lord help the souls of the forty +thousand inhabitants now living there, and put it in the hearts of the +English people to establish schools and hospitals in this most promising +field for missionary labour. + +Beyrout was, at the period of which I am now writing, under the Egyptian +government, and the whole place was overrun by fierce Albanian soldiers +and recruits, who were the terror of society. Many are the instances on +record of the outrages committed by these men; but their treatment of the +esteemed Mr. Bird, an American missionary, was perhaps the most glaring +instance of unprovoked atrocity. + +Mr. Bird had a country-house in the environs of Beyrout, not far from +where some of the troops were encamped. This house was surrounded by a +large fruit-garden, and the produce was continually stolen and recklessly +wasted; for which, however, there appears to have been no remedy. On one +occasion, Mr. Bird’s native servant, seeing some soldiers pilfering from +a fig-tree, threw a stone, which unfortunately took effect and slightly +wounded one of them in the head. Hearing the uproar that ensued, and +learning the cause from his servant, Mr. B--- immediately ran out with a +few necessaries in his hands to examine and dress the wound. He was thus +charitably occupied when a number of the man’s comrades who had been +attracted by the noise, arrived upon the spot, and presuming it to be Mr. +Bird who had wounded the man, made a ruffianly assault on that +unoffending person, buffeted and bound him; and finally carried their +cruel vengeance to such an extent, that they actually crucified him on a +sycamore-tree, using cords in lieu of nails, but in every other respect +blasphemously imitating the position of the figure upon the cross, as +seen by them often in pictures and on crucifixes. Here, spit upon, +slapped, and derided, Mr. Bird was left for some time suffering intense +agony, both of mind and body, for the hot afternoon sun shone fiercely +upon him, and the sharp stings of the sand-flies drove him almost to +distraction; happily the servant had made his escape into the town, and +flown to the residence of the consul. So flagrant an offence naturally +excited the anger of all the Europeans in Beyrout; and consuls of every +nation, accompanied by their retinue, all armed to the teeth, rode forth +to the rescue. On seeing so large a cavalcade advance, the troops beat +to arms; and affairs now assumed a most menacing attitude on both sides. +A council was held among the Europeans; and it was speedily determined +that a deputation should dismount and proceed on foot to the tent of the +officer commanding the troops. This was according done; and the Pasha, +having listened to the complaint, summoned the offenders into his +presence, meanwhile issuing orders that Mr. Bird should be instantly +released and brought before him, that he might speak for himself. The +soldiers endeavoured to vindicate themselves, by asserting that the +Franks had murdered a true believer of the prophet; and in proof of what +they asserted, they had actually the audacity and folly to cause the +wounded man to be carried on a few planks, hastily knocked together, and +set down on the ground a few paces distant from the Pasha’s tent, where +the impudent fellow so well maintained the rigidity of limb and face, +that he really had much the appearance of a cold stiff corpse. The +Pasha’s doctor (a European), however, was close at hand; and this officer +was ordered to see whether the man was really dead or in a dying +condition. The doctor, who was an acute man, soon saw how matters stood; +and producing from his coat pocket a bottle of sal volatile, he +dexterously applied it to the nose of the prostrate soldier, and with +such good effect, that the man started up as though he had received an +electric shock, and was seized with such a violent fit of sneezing, that, +notwithstanding the serious position of both parties, it was found +impossible to resist a simultaneous burst of laughter. The Pasha was too +much enraged to join in this hilarity, which he speedily checked, by +thundering out to his attendants to seize upon the ringleaders in this +disgraceful riot, and have them hung on the same tree upon which Mr. Bird +had been exposed—a threat that would doubtless have been put into +immediate execution, but for the strenuous interference of good Mr. Bird, +who, though still smarting from the severity of his treatment, was far +too good a Christian to allow his enemies to be punished. He tried hard +to beg them off altogether; but this the Pasha would not listen to, so +the Europeans returned home to be out of hearing of the cries of the +wretches as they underwent the severest bastinadoing ever inflicted, +where flogging stops short of life. + +This account will appear a perfect fable to those who only know Beyrout +in its present civilised state; and vast indeed must have been the change +for the better, when ladies and children can wander about the place, +singly and unprotected, at all hours of the day, and even, I may venture +to assert, throughout the night. + +Since the expulsion of the Egyptians, in 1840–1, Beyrout has rapidly +risen into considerable importance; and it may now be considered the +chief entrepôt of Syrian commerce. At that period there were barely +three or four European families established; and an English vessel only +occasionally touched at the port; now, merchants, artizans, and +shopkeepers, from all parts of Europe have flocked into the town; and +scarcely a week passes by without three or more vessels arriving in the +roads from different ports of Europe. The roadstead presents a gay +appearance on Sunday, when all the different vessels display the ensigns +of their respective nations, and corresponding flags are hoisted from the +tops of the consulates on shore. English, French, Sardinian, Austrian, +American, Portuguese, Spanish, Dutch, Danish, Norwegian, and Swedish +ships are daily arriving at, or sailing out of the port, bringing +manufactures from Manchester, colonial produce from London, sugar from +Hamburg, assorted cargoes from France and Italy, and numberless +requisites and necessaries from other parts of the world; whilst they +export from Beyrout, silk reeled in the many factories situated in the +immediate neighbourhood and on Lebanon, grain from the interior, raw +silk, of which some portion is contributed from my native village, and +lately an enterprising American has carried off ship-loads of our Beyrout +and Syrian olive oil, timber, nuts, and specimens of dried and preserved +fruits. The population is rapidly increasing, the wealth augmenting, new +firms are being established, fresh channels of commerce discovered, +houses being built, gardens enclosed, grounds purchased and planted, till +the once quiet, secluded, and almost desolate-looking Beyrout, many of +whose decayed and dilapidated ruins crumbled into dust under the severe +shocks of the great earthquake of 1821, has been rapidly metamorphosed +into a pleasant and flourishing town, replete with handsome buildings and +luxuriant gardens, presenting, as viewed from the sea, one of the +handsomest marine pictures possible for the pencil of the painter to +depict, or the lay of the poet to celebrate. + +Please God, I hope yet to see the day when much loved Beyrout shall rival +and surpass in every sense Smyrna, and even Stamboul. I often hear +people in England talking about the beautiful azure skies of sunny Italy, +and sighing for her shores; but I doubt very much if any part of the +world can surpass some portions of Syria for climate or for beauty of +scenery of every description. Those who are fond of romantic and wild +scenery, have only to travel over the Lattakia mountains to gratify their +tastes and inclinations. The quiet woodbine, the pleasant myrtle-shade, +the jessamine and the rose, the murmuring stream and the lovely cot; +these are to be met with all over Lebanon and North Syria—nature, in all +her variety, collected, together—hills, valleys, rivers, +fountains—gardens, ocean—snow and sunshine; all these may be included in +one prospect surveyed from any of the many eminences in the immediate +neighbourhood of Beyrout. As for cloudless skies, all Syria possesses +this charm, and it has none of the drawbacks that Italy must lament—no +Popish thraldom—no revolutionary crisis always on the eve of exploding, +and always stained with innocent blood. The land, it is true, is the +land of the Moslem; but the present enlightened Sultan has made it a land +of perfect liberty to the stranger; and more than this, a land in which +he enjoys privileges that he cannot hope for in his own native country. + +Beyrout is the spot for many reasons best adapted for missionary +purposes; and I have long wished for the day when I may be enabled to lay +before intelligent men a certain means of promoting the interests, both +spiritual and temporal, of their Eastern brethren with little +pains-taking or trouble to themselves, but with incalculable advantages +to those whom they would benefit. Of this, however, more anon, in a +chapter devoted expressly to the subject. + +A great advantage derivable to Europeans settling at Beyrout is the +immediate proximity of the Lebanon range of mountains; for, though +reputed an excellent climate, Beyrout is subject to great heats during +the summer season, and it not unfrequently occurs that reckless strangers +unnecessarily expose themselves to the fierce rays of the sun with +nothing but a flimsy hat to protect their heads. The result is +brain-fever and sometimes death. The latter is very unfairly attributed +to the climate. One might as well say the same of London, where several +instances of _coup de soleil_ have occurred during a late year; but as +some constitutions cannot stand heat, however well sheltered indoors, +these have only to pitch their tents, or to repair to a neighbouring +village during the summer, a pleasant half-hour or hour’s ride from +Beyrout. Here they may choose their own temperature, and not only this, +but also gratify their own peculiar fancy with regard to scenery; and +those who love field-sports will find endless amusement and occupation +amongst the hares and partridges with which the neighbourhood is +literally overrun. + +But the real fact of the case is, that the climate of Beyrout is +extremely healthy; in proof of which I quote the general health of the +natives and of those Europeans who have resided there long enough to +adapt themselves to the customs of the country, who eat but little meat +during the hot months, eschew spirits and inebriating liquors, avoid +violent exercise or exposure to draughts and the intense heat of the +mid-day sun; rise early, use frequent ablutions, take gentle horse +exercise, and only use fresh and ripe fruit, and vegetables which are +generally of the best. Even fish is considered by the natives as +tantamount to poison during the months of July and August; and surely +nature is bountiful enough in the supply of an endless variety of +delicious fruits and vegetables to enable one to subsist without much +heavy and unwholesome meat. Of the benefits arising from this diet and +regimen, the robust natives of the villages give ample proof; their +every-day meals consist principally of bread, fruit, vegetables, rice or +burghal, and cold water; with a little cup of coffee and a pipe of mild +tobacco after meals to promote digestion. + + + + +CHAPTER V. +EXCURSION TO CYPRUS. + + +Quitting my kind friends the Americans in 1839, I was appointed by the +Government to accompany a distinguished European, travelling on a +diplomatic mission through the East. He was an affable, kind man; and +though I have often since made the tour of the places we then visited, I +never so much enjoyed a journey as in his pleasant and instructive +company. Our plan of route was to first visit Cyprus and Asia Minor, +then the northern towns and villages of Syria, and so travel southwards +as far as the limits of Syria and Palestine. All things being prepared, +we set sail from Beyrout late one evening in a small felucca, which, +nevertheless, in fine weather, sailed remarkably well; and, upon the +whole, we were pretty comfortable on board, the entire use of the boat, +to the exclusion of other passengers, having been contracted for. + +The land breeze blew freshly all night, and at daylight next morning, +when I staggered up, holding fast by the cords of the mast, there was not +a vestige of Beyrout to be seen; indeed, my inexperienced eyes could +discern nothing but sea and clouds, though the Arab _raīs_ (captain) +positively affirmed, that what I mistook for clouds was the high land of +Cyprus, looming right a-head. This was the first time in my life that I +had ever found myself so far out at sea. At first the novelty of the +sight, the lovely, cool, blue colour of the waves—the azure sky, tinged +with a hundred brilliant hues, all harbingers of the rising sun—the fish +sportively bounding into the air—the sea-gulls—the white sails of vessels +in the distance; all these were a source of amusement and speculation for +the mind; but when the sun rose, and its heat soon drove me to take +shelter under the lee of the large mainsail—when I had nothing to do but +to watch the little boat dipping and plunging into the water—when the +smell of tar, pitch, tobacco-smoke, and fried onions, assailed my +nostrils; then I was fairly and dreadfully sea-sick. + +I wrapped myself up in my _kaboot_, and only groaned out answers to the +many kind enquiries made by my new friend and the assiduous boat’s +company. These latter became an intolerable nuisance. First would come +the fat, greasy-looking old _raīs_, with an abominable skewer of fried +meat and onions in one hand, and a nasty, well-mauled piece of bread in +the other. “Eat, my son,” he would say; “eat these delicious morsels, +rivalling in flavour and richness the _Kabābs_ of Paradise; it will +strengthen your heart.” A lizard or a toad could not have been more +nauseous to me than was that man at that moment. Throughout the morning +it was nothing but “_yar Ibn-i_, _koul_, _yar Ibn-i Risk Allah_” (O son, +eat, O son Risk Allah). The heat grew intense towards midday. My +European friend was almost as great a sufferer as myself. Happily the +sea-breeze held on, and at eleven, P.M., that night our felucca was +safely moored at Larnaca, the sea-port town of Cyprus. + +During our stay at Larnaca we were lodged with the English vice-consular +agent at that time, a native of the island. He was an obliging old man, +who did all in his power to make our stay agreeable. I was very much +pleased with this place and its hospitable inhabitants; though only so +short a distance from Beyrout, the change was very great. Here there +were numerous carriages and other vehicles, drawn by horses and oxen; and +a drive in an open carriage was both a treat and a novelty to me, who had +never been accustomed to any other mode of locomotion than walking or +riding on horseback. The Greeks and the Roman Catholics had neat +churches here, and the loud chiming of the church bells on a Sunday was a +clear proof that the Christians of this island enjoyed more privileges, +and mixed more freely with the Turks than their brethren on the mainland. +To such an extraordinary pitch is this neighbourly intercourse carried, +that they intermarry with each other without any distinction of creed; +the only part of the Turkish dominions where such a license exists. At +Larnaca the houses were neatly built, and the streets cleanly swept; +there were many pleasant rides and drives about the neighbourhood, but +the climate is insalubrious and peculiarly ill adapted to European +constitutions. The heat in the summer months is beyond endurance; and +there are many salt-pits and marshes in the neighbourhood, which +contribute greatly towards the sufferings of the inhabitants. I am sorry +to say that what I saw of the natives, only helped to confirm me in those +prejudices which exist against them in the East. The men are, for the +most part, notorious gamblers and drunkards, and when drunk or excited, +capable of any act of ferocity. Besides this, they are possessed of all +the cunning of the fox, and are such lovers of mammon, that for the +acquirement of wealth they would be guilty of any dishonesty or +treachery, and sacrifice even the honor and virtue of their families, at +the shrine of their household deity—gold. How painful to reflect that so +many precious souls are thrown away for the want of better teaching and +example; how sad to know that they have no opportunity offered them of +throwing off the heavy yoke of sin, and of bursting the bonds of Satan. +But their bishops and priests are a wicked set, full of conceit and +sinful lusts, selling their own souls, as well as those confided to their +care, for the acquirement of filthy lucre; and so long as they encourage +the vices and dissipations of their flocks as a sure source of revenue to +themselves (for however great the crime, absolution may be purchased, and +slight penances imposed to expiate the most heinous sins); so long as +such a sad state of affairs is permitted, there can be no hope of any +amelioration in their degraded condition. I know not what the motives +for it may be; but poor Cyprus has, so long as I can remember, been more +neglected than other parts of the East by the Missionary Societies in +England and America. This is much to be lamented, and may, I hope, soon +be remedied. Doubtless for the first few years, missionaries would have +almost insuperable difficulties to contend against; but, with God’s +blessing, these would gradually disappear. The climate, though perhaps +unfavourable to their constitution, would be favourable to their cause, +and a skilful physician a boon to an island, where heretofore only quacks +and charlatans have been within the call of suffering humanity. The late +Doctor Lilburn has left a name behind him in Cyprus still reverenced by +the poorer and sicklier inhabitants; his kind urbanity, his charity, and +attention to the sufferings of the sick, and his skill as a physician, +displayed in many extraordinary cures, all these contributed to work out +for him a fame which would have gradually enlarged itself, and penetrated +to the remotest corners of the island, had it pleased the Almighty to +spare him yet awhile on earth; but he died, and we have every hope that +his good Christian spirit is now reaping an eternal harvest of bliss. + +With all the crimes and vices attached to the character of the Cypriote +Greeks, they are all staunch observers of the outward forms prescribed by +the elders of their church. They are rigid observers of fast days, and +the same man that would hardly hesitate to rob you of your life, would +rather endure any torments of hunger, or any temptation, than break +through the prescribed rules of abstinence. This, in conjunction with +their frequent attendance at the confessional, clearly shews the implicit +faith they place in the powers and virtues of their priests; and it +appears to me that this strict command over certain lusts of the flesh +might, if diverted into a proper channel, redound much to their credit, +and these very ruffians become devoted Christians, when they have once +learnt the instability of all human hopes, the impotency of man’s agency +to avert a pending destruction, and to give all the glory to God, and no +portion of it to princes or men. + +We visited severally Nicosia, the inland capital of the kingdom, Fuma +Gosta, and a few other unimportant sea-side villages. Nicosia is a very +handsomely built town, with beautiful gardens, and surrounded with +strongly built fortifications. The streets are sufficiently wide, and +for the most part kept in admirable repair; good roads are a rare thing +to meet in the East. The _majlis_, or government council, of which the +Pasha himself is president, is composed of Turks and Greeks; but the +greater portion are Greeks. These are the wealthiest part of the +community, and carry everything before them. In some caves attached to +the houses of the most ancient Greek families, there are large supplies +of old Cyprus _camandarea_, upwards of half a century in earthen jars. +This wine is very expensive, and is only used as a luxury or for +convalescent invalids. The supposed sites of Salamis and Paphos were +pointed out to us; in the former place we are told, in the Acts of the +Apostles, that Paul and Barnabas, who landed in Cyprus A.D. 44, preached +Christ crucified; here also, Barnabas, who is reverenced as the principal +Apostle and first Bishop of Cyprus, was stoned, being martyred by the +Jews of Salamis: at Paphos St. Paul struck Bar-jesus with blindness, and +the pro-consul embraced Christianity. The spiritual blindness of the +people of the whole island is, alas! more appalling than that miraculous +visitation on the blaspheming impostor. During our stay in the island, +my friend was much occupied surveying and sketching, and from seeing him +apparently so much attached to the elegant accomplishments, I first +acquired a passion for drawing, but he had no time to instruct me; I had +no means of improving myself; and so I was obliged to let the matter rest +till a favourable opportunity should present itself. + +The prevailing language of the island is Greek—Turkish is also spoken, +but Arabic is almost unknown in the interior; a strange circumstance, +considering the proximity of Cyprus to the Syrian coast. + +After a month’s ramble in the island, we hired a native boat at Cyprus, +and sailed over to Cilicia, a voyage which we were three days in +accomplishing, owing to the then prevalent light winds and calms. +Mersine, the seaport of Tarshish, or Tersous, the birthplace of St. Paul, +and once a city of no mean repute, is a miserable little village +consisting of some half a hundred huts, inhabited by fever-stricken, +flea-bitten fellahs. There are many pleasant orange groves and citron +walks in the village; and the water and shade, and verdure, form a +picture of ease, and health, and comfort, that but ill accords with the +really pestilential atmosphere of the neighbourhood. Small and +unimportant as Mersine is in itself, it is of considerable importance to +the commerce of Asia Minor, as being the nearest seaport to Tersous and +Adana, whose merchants ship annually large quantities of linseed, wool, +sessame, and cotton, the produce of the vast plains and valleys on either +side of the Taurus range of mountains. From Mersine to Tersous is a +distance of about four hours’ easy riding. We left Mersine the morning +after our arrival an hour before sunrise, so that we reached our +destination before the sun had waxed overpoweringly hot, or the +horse-flies had become annoying. The beauty of the plains we rode over, +their fertility and variegated aspect, and the whole scenery around us, +is scarcely surpassed in any part of the world that I have visited, +before or since. Troops of swift gazelles, and hares innumerable passed +our track as we crossed the plains of Adana; whilst the surrounding +bushes abounded with partridges, quails, and such like game; the marshes +and lakes were literally teeming with water-fowl, from the majestic swan +to the insignificant sandpiper and water-rail; foxes were plentiful, and +so were jackals and hyenas; and the high range of mountains that +encompasses the plain on all sides, save that which faces the sea, was +plentifully stocked with chetahs, leopards, and other equally undesirable +neighbours. The further we rode the higher the elevation of the ground +became, and the land was well laid out in cultivation. Finally, we +reached the really picturesque and vast gardens on the outskirts of the +town, where we met occasional donkey-loads of the choicest fruits and +vegetables. Heaps of cucumbers and lettuces were piled up near the +garden-gates ready for transportation to the market, and the passers-by +coolly helped themselves to some without any interference on the part of +the owners or gardeners, so super-abundantly does nature there produce +her choicest gifts. + +Tersous is in some parts handsomely built, in others it was disfigured by +wretched hovels, whilst masses of putrifying vegetable and animal matter +were all that met the eye or assailed the nostril. The inhabitants +seemed equally distinct from each other. The occupants of the better +sort of houses were stout, robust, and healthy-looking fellows, who lived +upon the fat of the land, and inhabited Tersous only during winter, and a +portion of autumn and spring, decamping with their families to the lofty +and salubrious climates of Kulek Bughaz, and other pleasantly situated +villages of the Taurus, as soon as the much-dreaded summer drew nigh. +The inmates of the miserable hovels were, on the contrary, perfect +personifications of misery and despair—sickly-looking, unfortunate +_Fellahin_ Christians and Jews, who must work, and work hard too, to +enable them to inhabit any home, however humble, and are, consequently, +tied down to the place hot weather or cold, martyrs to fevers, dropsy, +and a few other like horrible complaints common to Tersous at all times +of the year, but raging to a fearful extent during the months of June, +July and August. The fevers are occasioned partly from the miasma +arising from the marshes in the neighbourhood and the many stagnant pools +and gutters in the town itself, but chiefly from the frightful +exhalations occasioned by the mounds of putrifying camels, cows, oxen, +goats, horses, and mules, which annually die off from a murrain raging +amongst them, and whose carcases are dragged to the outside of the city’s +old walls, and there indiscriminately piled up in the dry ditches +around—a carnival for jackals and glutted vultures who are so amply +provided for, that even they and the packs of savage curs that infest the +streets of the town, grow dainty in their pickings and become worthless +scavengers from excess of feasting. + +This is a frightful but faithful picture of the suburbs of modern +Tersous. The very streets are equally neglected; bestrewed with the +disgusting remains of dogs, cats, and similar nuisances. Indeed, Tersous +might be aptly termed a mass of corruption; and yet it has not been +neglected by bountiful nature. The pleasant waters of the famed Cydnus, +which murmur through the very heart of the town, render its banks on +either side prolific with orange and lemon trees; the sweet odour from +whose blossoms, the fever-wasted form, reclining in a pleasant shade on +its banks, inhales with gusto, but alas! each breath is impregnated with +the noxious poisons that float heavily on the atmosphere. + +The inhabitants are negligent and careless about what most vitally +concerns their immediate welfare, vainly sweeping out and cleansing their +own particular court-yards and houses, whilst the streets and the suburbs +are teeming with the seeds of pestilence, and the dark night vapour is +bestridden by direful disease and death. In Tersous there was only one +resident Englishman, and that was the Vice-Consul, who had come there to +die like his predecessors. There were no missionaries, not even a +Catholic priest, though plenty of Italian and French Roman Catholics were +attached to the various consulates, or employed as merchants and fishers +of leeches. The native inhabitants, including a great many from Cyprus, +were of all creeds, the greater part being Mahomedans. + +During our stay, we were the guests of a hospitable native Christian, +Signor Michael Saba, a notable merchant of Tersous; but almost all of +those whose acquaintance I made, are since dead, our worthy host among +the rest. He, poor man, fell a victim to a virulent fever, that swept +away hundreds besides himself, within the space of a fortnight. Sad +indeed is the change for the worse in the Tersous of the present day, to +what that town must have been in the primitive days of the Christian +church, when it boasted of its wealth and commerce, and sent forth to the +world such accomplished men as the great Apostle St. Paul; who, speaking +of his native home, could call it _A city of no mean repute in Cilicia_. +Our stay in Tersous did not exceed the time absolutely necessary for the +completion of my friend’s drawings and surveys; and then, nothing loth, +we turned our backs upon the place, crossing the large handsome bridge +built over the river, and so speeded on towards Adana. The country lying +between Tersous and Adana, was very similar to that which we had +traversed between Mersine and the former place, a flat country +imperceptibly rising as we advanced. Most of this country was more or +less cultivated; and we passed countless Turcoman encampments forming +large villages, the whole of whose population was almost exclusively +occupied in making those carpets, for which they are so much renowned. +The great brilliancy of colour and duration of these carpets have +acquired for them a very just celebrity. The Turcoman dyes, brilliant +yellow, green, and purple (the latter possibly the celebrated Tyrian dye, +now lost to the world), are a secret, for the possession of a knowledge +of which, the princely Manchester manufacturers would, I imagine, +willingly loosen their purse-strings; but no one in the East has hitherto +been possessed of sufficient energy and patient inquisitiveness to coax +this secret from the breasts of these wild sons of the wilderness. _En +route_ we passed many old wells which supplied these people and their +flocks with water during the summer months. At some of these wells we +stopped and begged water for ourselves and horses, which was cheerfully +supplied by pretty maidens, who, like Rebecca of old, had come to the +well to supply their father’s flocks with water. + +The town of Adana is of very unprepossessing aspect; its houses being +very inferior, both in appearance and dimensions, to those of Tersous. +They have, however, the advantage of being in a much healthier situation, +though, owing to the inconvenient system of excluding windows, which +might overlook the neighbours’ court-yards, the houses are insufferably +close during the hot months; and have more the resemblance of miserable +prisons, with well-secured doors, than of dwelling-houses. The Turks, +who are seldom at home during the day, suffer very little inconvenience +from the fact above alluded to. They, for the most part, have their +little shops on either side of the prodigiously long street that +constitutes Adana; and as these are covered in with thatch-work, and are +moreover carefully watered by public water-carriers several times a day, +the _Dukkans_ afford a desirable retreat from the mid-day heat. If their +wives and families suffer inconvenience from the sultry closeness of the +weather, they are at liberty to lock their doors and resort to any among +the number of pleasant gardens that embellish the suburbs of the town, +there to make _farah_, and enjoy themselves till the hour arrives when +the _Dukkans_ are closed for the night, and the master of the house is +expected home; then all scamper back to receive their hungry husbands, +and if their dinner be not cooked, or be displeasing to their taste, to +receive in addition a few lashes of the _corbash_, in the use of which +they are pretty well skilled in Adana. + +The inhabitants are all Moslems—the most intolerably bigoted and +ignorantly proud people to be met with in the whole of the Sultan’s +dominions. No professor of another creed dares to settle in any quarter +of the town, but have their houses scattered around its suburbs, and +these are in general miserable, mean-looking hovels, tenanted by a +wretchedly poverty-stricken people. Though Adana is the head-quarters of +the Pasha of that Pashalik, no Europeans, consuls or merchants, reside in +the place, from which fact alone arises the unbearable hauteur of the +Turks of Adana, who are unaccustomed to mingle with more civilised +people, or to bend to the yoke which the rules of official etiquette +demand and obtain. + +Adana has often been the theatre of frightful convulsions and rebellions. +The supreme power of the Sublime Porte has been on more than one occasion +set at defiance, and though the results have been terrible, and the +honour of the Sultan been vindicated in blood, time has worn off the +impression, and rising generations have continued to grow up in insolence +and insubordination, till the natives are so void of civility to the +stranger, that, as a recent author truthfully observes, “it was difficult +for any European to traverse the bazars, especially that part allotted to +shoe-makers, without being disgustingly abused, and even spit at.” In +all other parts, the residence of the Pasha is usually fixed upon as the +residence of the consuls and consular agents; as, for instance, Damascus, +Jerusalem, and Aleppo, the presence of European authorities being always +a wholesome check upon the governors, who have an innate fear of them, +which, notwithstanding their deadly hate and bigotry, they are compelled +to acknowledge by civil words and acts; and if there is one thing that +they fear more than another, it is the facility with which Europeans use +their pens. “I will write to Stamboul,” is a terrible sentence to the +conscience-smitten official. In it he pictures to his imagination an +endless array of evils; first, the certainty of answers; then his being +involved in a difficult correspondence, which is almost sure to +terminate, if he does not speedily amend, in his recall, and possibly +still more severe punishment. + +Adana had few inducements to hold out to us for remaining. The Pasha’s +beautiful _serrai_ was the only object worthy of attention. This had +been handsomely constructed, and was picturesquely situated on the banks +of that rapid stream which flows through Tersous. Here also was a bridge +of very fine structure, and apparently of very ancient date. The river +itself was enlivened by a number of floating flour-mills, the rapid +motion of whose wheels threw showers of clear water high up into the air, +and gave a busy and stirring appearance to the, in all other respects, +dull and monotonous town. + +We ventured as far north as Kulek Bughaz—that impregnable mountain-pass +which Ibrahim Pasha so strongly fortified, and which modern travellers +state, is now in a ruinous condition. Having, from this great elevation, +taken a survey of the immense extent of plains both on the Konia and +Adana side, we hastened to descend again, since the mountains were +infested with lawless banditti, and the whole country around was in a +very unsettled state, owing to recent warlike demonstrations between +Mehemet Ali Pasha and the Sublime Porte. + +Reaching the plains, we once more skirted the river, till we arrived at a +pathway, that led us, after two days’ weary journeyings, to the village +of Ayas, on the northern side of the Gulf of Scanderoon; thus avoiding a +passage through the territories of the descendants of that late notorious +robber-chief, Kuchuk Ali Oglu, whose infamous name had spread terror far +and wide throughout the Ottoman dominions. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. +ALEPPO. + + +Hiring an Arab boat at Ayas, we crossed over the Gulf of Scanderoon, +passing close to the lagoons near that place, which are very dangerous +for navigation; in fact, so much so, that in speaking of it we say in +Arabic, “As dangerous as the Black Sea.” They, however, abound in fine +turtle, such as would meet with a ready and profitable market in London. +We landed at Scanderoon, a wretched and deserted village, surrounded with +pestiferous marshes on all sides. The fever was at that period +prevalent, so that our stay was limited to a few hours, during which +brief interval horses were engaged to carry us to Antioch, and we partook +of some slight refreshment at the residence of my friend, Suleiman Bey. + +Leaving Scanderoon, or Alesandretta, as it is also called, we rode for +upwards of an hour through marshes, and hot, humid, unhealthy ground, +till arriving at the foot of the Beilan mountains, we commenced their +rather abrupt ascent, and after half an hour’s scrambling and hard work, +reached an elevation from which we caught an uninterrupted view of the +sea for many miles on either side, and so pushing forward, in three hours +we reached the picturesque village of Beilan, which is situated on either +side of a high mountain gorge, and is one of those natural barriers +which, like Kulek Bughaz, afforded a stronghold in times of disturbance +and war to several rebel chiefs, who from these fortresses set at +defiance the invading armies from the neighbouring plains: but since the +death of Kuchuk Ali Oglu, who so long reigned _in terrorem_ over the +peaceful inhabitants of the plains, this class of people have been +entirely exterminated; and Beilan, being on the highway from +Constantinople to Aleppo, is now inhabited by a civilised though very +poor class of Turks and Armenians, whose constant intercourse with +Europeans and other merchants has tamed them into honesty, and taught +them to respect and fear the prowess of all European nations, more +especially the English, of whose fleets they have sometimes caught sight +when cruizing about the Gulf, and the roar of whose cannon, echoing from +mountain to dell, whispered to them not mildly of the power and valour of +that surprising nation. + +From Beilan to Aleppo our journey occupied two days and a half; and as we +travelled with our own tents, etc., we were entirely independant of such +wretched accommodation as is usually afforded to travellers in the +villages. Aleppo had much the appearance of Damascus when viewed from +the distance. The bright foliage of the trees dotted with occasional +domes and terraces—the lofty minarets, and the picturesque hill and +castle in the centre, all contributed to render the tableau complete; +besides which, around as far as the eye could stretch, the barren and +desolate appearance of the mountains made Aleppo stand forth a perfect +Oasis in a wilderness. On our arrival we were lodged at the Latin +convent, but shortly afterwards removed to hired apartments in Jedida, +the Christian quarter of the town, where I had the pleasure of forming +the acquaintance of several wealthy native families. + +The Aleppines are with truth styled polished; they are innately gentlemen +and ladies, from the highest to the lowest; the graceful walk—the +well-bred salutation—in short, the whole deportment is such as would well +become, and even grace, an English aristocratic _re-union_. During our +stay, Signor Fatallah, a wealthy neighbour, who was likewise proprietor +of a silk manufactory, married his son to the daughter of an opulent +fellow-townsman; preparations on a grand scale had long been going +forward, and amongst a vast concourse of friends and acquaintances +invited to celebrate the nuptials, we also were included. The auspicious +moment arrived, and we proceeded to Fatallah’s house escorted by a band +of native musicians whom we met going there. On arriving at the +residence of the bridegroom, we were ushered into a long room in which +guests were seated from the door to the upper part according to their +rank in life; the chief guests being seated at the head of the divan on +either side of the master of the house, others were ranged lower and +lower, the poorest guests were close to the doorway, and one or two so +poor that they did not even aspire to a place on the divan, but squatted +themselves cross-legged on the ground. On the arrival of a fresh guest +the master of the house would rise and come forward to receive him; and +if, as happened on some occasions, the guest from mock humility would +seat himself in a position lower than what his actual rank of precedence +entitled him to, an absurd scuffle would ensue, in which the master of +the house would endeavour to drag the other higher up into the room, and +the guest with many “Stāfer Allahs” (God forbid) and many false +protestations, would pretend reluctantly to yield to the distinction +proferred him, and so gain honour in the sight of the assembled +multitude. Such scenes brought vividly to my mind our Lord’s parable +about the meek being exalted; and rendered it clearly evident that this +etiquette, so strictly adhered to by the natives of all Syria to this +present hour, existed in the time of the Redeemer, and has been practised +from the Patriarchs downwards. The very costume—the method of +salutation—the seats arranged methodically for the guests, all helped to +contribute not a little in forcibly recalling to mind several portions of +Scripture often read with pleasure in my childhood. + +After we had arrived and taken our seats, the musicians struck up some +popular and lively Arabic air familiar to the ears of us Syrians, as +connected with many pleasant recollections of like spectacles and +occasions. Numberless servants were busily occupied in handing to the +guests sherbet, pipes, narghilies, and a large assortment of candied and +other sweetmeats. As the visitors continued rapidly arriving they were +sprinkled by the bridesman with essences, and the scene in the court-yard +outside the reception-room assumed a more animated appearance. Groups of +young men in gaily-coloured and picturesque coats, were seated in +separate circles each possessing a _kānūn_ or other instrument players of +its own, emulous to surpass the notes of his neighbour. Occasionally one +or two men from each circle would stand up and go through the wild but +elegant figures of the Bedouin dances, whilst groups of pretty and timid +girls, collected in knots round the walls of the house, watched with the +deepest interest the wrestling matches of their lovers or brothers, and +joined loudly in the plaudits which crowned a successful competitor with +the full-blown honours of championship. As the evening advanced, their +hilarity increased; strings of servants with heavily-laden trays were +seen occasionally crossing the court-yard, bringing quantities of +confectionery and other gifts of the friends and relations of the +bridegroom, for it is always expected that everyone invited will +contribute in some small way to set up the young couple in life. To this +intent the presents comprise all sorts of articles, such as +handkerchiefs, caps, scarfs, wax-tapers, coffee, sugar, sweet-meats, live +fowls, wheat, tobacco, etc. Every one gives his mite; it costs the donor +only a trifle, but in the mass very materially assists the newly married +pair. This custom of friends sending presents is also adopted upon the +accouchment of a lady; her friends, the ensuing week, send her various +small presents on trays, such as a couple of roasted chickens, or some +delicate tit-bit, well suited to the palate of an invalid. These small +civilities are productive of much good will, and really cost nothing, but +I wonder what any fashionable lady in London would say, if a friend, +under similar circumstances, volunteered to send her a dish of roast +fowl. I understand that among the middle and lower classes in England +such presents are not unfrequent, though generally in cases not entirely +above the reach of want; whereas, with us in Syria, when we have any dish +that is particularly nice, or any early fruit that is very choice the +custom of sending a portion to our neighbours is observed by all classes +alike, as a mark of regard and delicate attention. + +But to return to the gay nuptials of our friend, Fatallah’s son, the +bridegroom was nowhere visible, neither were there any signs of the fair +bride or her attendant nymphs. Towards evening, however, the Greek +bishop, marshalled in by three or four priests, made his appearance, and +as soon as his reverence had been saluted and seated himself, servants +appeared with low round tables, which they set before the guests, and +covering them with heavily-laden trays, removed the napkins, and +displayed to the hungry multitude the very choice collection of viands +that had been cooked for the nuptial dinner. + +Richly flavoured soups, aromatic dishes of minced meat, gravies, and +numerous other delicacies, both sweet and sour, were all plentifully +supplied; the first course consisting chiefly of light dishes, in which +vegetables and curdled cream figured in abundance; the second, comprising +various kinds of meat; the whole repast terminating with one vast pillaf, +kids and lambs roasted whole, and stuffed with pistachio nuts, currants +and spices. Before commencing dinner, a small glass of arraki {76} was +handed round to the guests; afterwards, an abundant supply of wine of +Lebanon was at hand for those who wished to partake of it. + +Whilst this festivity was going forward indoors, those outside were not +one whit behind in enjoyment. Sheep cooked whole, were set before the +musicians and singers; also huge platters of pillaf, which made two men +stagger under their weight. At the conclusion of dinner, all the guests +were served with basins and ewers of water, and very liberally +besprinkled with rose and orange-flower water. + +During the repast, the bridegroom, who had entered the room very meanly +clad, was conducted by young men, his companions, into an adjoining +apartment, and there having been shaved and washed, then stripped of his +beggarly rags, he was clothed in splendid bridal attire and led back into +the presence of the guests. Here he passed round from one to the other, +humbly taking their hands and kissing them, commencing with the bishops +and priests, until he had completed the circle; he then received the +blessing; after which he was permitted to seat himself upon a low chair +placed in the centre of the room, and there, with his head hanging down +from feelings of bashfulness, the young man awaited the arrival of the +propitious hour. After some little delay, the distant sound of darbekirs +and firing off of muskets warned the assembly that the bride had quitted +her home for the last time, and was now being escorted with all the pride +of Eastern pomp through the streets to the residence of her destined +husband. The road chosen on this, as on all similar occasions, is the +longest and most circuitous, in order to show that the bride is in no +hurry to arrive at the house of her beloved. No sooner did the shouts +and acclamations reach the ears of the young men congregated in the +court-yards, than these as though inspired by martial music, leapt up +from the ground and seizing upon their fire-arms, rushed out into the +streets accompanied by drums and other instruments, to be in readiness to +receive the bride’s escort, and exchange with them _feux de joie_ of +musketry. + +Some servants of the house now carried into the reception-room a common +low table which was speedily covered with snow-white drapery, and on +which were placed the bishop’s mitre, prayer-books, chalices, censers, +etc., all to be in readiness for the consecration of the nuptials. The +bishop and attendant priests were speedily arrayed in clerical costumes; +two small crowns of olive branches richly gilt and decorated with flowers +were placed upon the table; and these arrangements had scarcely been +completed, when the bride was ushered in by her attendant nymphs, +followed by a concourse of friends and relations, having previously +thrown some yeast upon the outer door of the house, and broken a +pomegranate over it. The former signifying that she is to be attached as +closely to her husband as the yeast adheres to the door; while the latter +figures that she is to be as fruitful a mother as this fruit is full of +seed. + +The bride was covered from head to foot in a long, loose veil, white as +snow; but of sufficiently thin texture to admit of her features being +partly distinguishable, and to show that over her under garments, which +were composed of richly embroidered silks and satins, she was literally +bespangled with costly gems; large festoons of gold coins encircling her +head, and falling over her shoulders, reached to the ground. + +The priest now lighted the candles placed on the temporary altar: {78} +deacons with censers in their hands went the round of the room, +sprinkling benedictions on all around; the bride and bridegroom were duly +arranged before the bishops and priests—a bridesman and a bridesmaid +stood behind, their right hands resting on the crowns which had now been +placed on the heads of the young couple about to be married; the chaunt +commenced, and the serious part of the ceremony began. As the nuptials +progressed, the bridegroom and bride three times exchanged crowns; then +the rings were placed upon the fingers of both, and the bishop made them +drink out of the same cup of wine; once did they make the circuit of the +altar-table; and then amidst a shower of small silver coins, +confectionary, and flowers, which fell like heavy rain all around, the +bishop gave his blessing; and the young couple were bound by indissoluble +ties from that moment forward, throughout life, as man and wife. The +bride was shortly after led away into an antechamber, where she was +partly relieved of her many cumbrous veils, and where such of the friends +of the family as desired, had a fair opportunity of admiring her pretty +face. She then stepped forth and kissed the hands of male intruders, in +token of her humble submission to one of their sex from that day forward. +{79} + +The latter part of the evening was passed much in the same way as the +earlier part of the day had been; with music, songs, and dancing. What +added much to the general effect, was the numerous variegated lamps and +brilliant torches, that cast a light upon and added greatly to the +picturesque effect of the various costumes; for by this time many of the +European residents were present, in some instances accompanied by their +ladies, and some of the military and other officers in the government +service, dressed in their respective uniforms. It was near upon midnight +when we withdrew, but the festivities were kept up till daybreak; and +then the wedding-feast terminated, the gaieties of which had been +sustained with hardly any intermission throughout the three preceding +days. + +Such is the general custom amongst our people; and even the poorest man +on such joyful occasions, as they occur only once in a lifetime, will +spend his last piastre in endeavours to make the ceremony as brilliant an +affair as he can. When a widower or widow is married, all these +rejoicings are abandoned—the simple nuptial ceremony, in the presence of +a few relatives, is all that is expected or in fact deemed decorous; and +this arises from a very honourable notion, that the memory of a deceased +partner should be held in religious esteem; so as to prevent the +outraging the feelings of their relatives upon the occasion of entering a +second time into that estate, by any display or great rejoicing: indeed a +man or a woman is supposed to marry a second time purely from motives of +mutual advantage; to be a helpmate to each other, especially in the case +of a man having had a family by his first wife, in which case, the +children are often unavoidably neglected, as the husband’s occupations +preclude the possibility of his devoting much time or thought to their +welfare. A stepmother in Syria is not a proverb of harshness; +stepmothers in that country, in direct contrariety to what is believed to +be the case in Europe, are affectionate and kind to their step-children; +and even in such rare instances as that of a man marrying again, when his +first wife’s children are already nearly grown up, even then perfect +harmony reigns between the different members of the family, for filial +respect is so powerfully inculcated in a young Syrian’s breast, that +however young the stepmother may be, she is always looked up to and +respected as the wife of a father; and with regard to the wife herself, +the rule acts the same, only vice versa, the children are regarded as the +children of her husband; and however many children a second wife may +have, the first one’s always claim the precedence. It is indispensable +amongst all Syrian families, that every member should know and keep his +or her respective place, and quarrels on this score are seldom if ever +known. + +We remained long enough in Aleppo to become familiar with all its +quarters, Christian, Jewish, and European; the latter reside principally +at Kittab, a pleasant little hamlet of neatly constructed houses, which +dates after the period of the shocking earthquake in 1822—an event which +so alarmed the populace that for many weeks afterwards they thought +themselves insecure within the walls of the city, many of the massive +houses, though built upon arches, having given way, carrying everything +before them, and crushing alike inmates and passers-by in the streets. +Aleppo is perhaps the most fashionable town in the East, not even +excepting Damascus. The fashions change there as often almost as they do +in Paris, and all the young ladies are as particular about their dress as +the more aristocratic belles in the North; the result of all this is, +that an Aleppine lady proves usually an expensive wife; but I must +acknowledge, that their extreme neatness, the snowy-white veils, and +gaily-coloured tunics, add much to the picturesque appearance of the +gardens on festive days, when the whole population throngs these +favourite places of resort as much for air and exercise as from a wish to +shew themselves, as it is only on this day many of them have an +opportunity of escaping from the narrow and confined streets of the city. + +“Shamm al Hawa,” is a favourite expression of Aleppines, for they dearly +love the open country, and delight to rove amongst trees and flowers; +Aleppo is a country I should have great hopes for with regard to the +success of missionary labour. The Aleppines are too courteous to mock at +or hold in derision the tenets of any man, or to interrupt a man when he +speaks, nor indeed to listen inattentively. Many amongst them are +naturally intelligent: and did any schools or institutions exist from +which their families might derive any clear and indisputable +benefit—education for their children—instruction in any arts or +sciences—physic and medical attendance for the sick and poverty-stricken +(they are by no means an ungrateful people), their attention would most +assuredly be arrested by such attentions to their own and their +townsmen’s wants, and they would be brought to reflect that such kind +benefactors must be trustworthy people, and people that love truth. + +The last Report of the British and Foreign Bible Society gives the +population of Aleppo to be 90,000 souls, of which number 19,000 are said +to be Christians of various denominations, and yet there was only one +Protestant missionary on the spot; the Rev. Mr. Benton having been +obliged to revisit America for the benefit of his health. When it is +considered that at Aintab, a considerable town, only a day distant from +Aleppo, the efforts of a single missionary, the Rev. Dr. Smith, of the +American mission, have been crowned with unprecedented success, and that +chiefly amongst the Armenians, of whom there are also numbers established +in Aleppo, it cannot but be regretted that so favourable a field should +be neglected. The fact of this missionary being also a physician is +another proof in support of what I shall endeavour to prove in a +subsequent chapter, namely, the advantages derivable from the wide +establishment of Medical Missions, a subject which I trust, under the +Almighty blessing, will attract the attention of the Christian +inhabitants of Great Britain. + +Few towns in the East can rival Aleppo in a commercial sense. Every +resident is more or less of a speculator; and thousands have lost and +gained a fortune in the failures or successes of mercantile speculations. +Even the women are imbued with this spirit of enterprise; and the female +broker is no inconsiderable person in a merchant’s appreciation. She +penetrates into the restricted precincts of the harem, and displays, to +the admiring gaze of its fair secluded inmates, jewels and tinselled +fineries, such as would barely merit a moment’s pause or attention in the +over-crowded bazaars, but when presented by themselves, prove an +inducement to purchase; and this is a means of no small profit, above all +to the poorer class of speculators who are obliged to restrict their +purchases to their very limited means. Even children hawk about minor +commodities, and little urchins who have scarcely a rag to cover their +nudity, will offer to the stranger carefully hoarded up bits of glass and +old coins picked up in some of the most deserted and ruinous portions of +the city, hoping that amongst them a valuable antique may invite his +attention. + +We left Aleppo after a prolonged stay, and mounting our horses joined a +caravan loaded with produce for the supply of the Antioch market. The +first few hours, after leaving Aleppo, our road lay over a rocky pathway +difficult to ride over, bleak and monotonous in the extreme; but soon the +glorious plains of the Amuk spreading before us as far as the eye could +reach, burst like a splendid panorama on our gaze. We rapidly descended +to their level, and the remainder of our first day’s journeying was over +a flat country, whose natural prolific soil, interspersed as it was at +short distances with small tributary streams, would have been a sight to +gladden the heart of any emigrant who should seek for rich pasturages for +his cattle—abundant harvest of wheat and barley—rich orchards and +valuable plantations. + +All these doubtless once existed at a time when the ruined cities, +portions of whose past grandeur still remain to gratify the curious +antiquarian, were in their zenith; indeed tradition reports the whole of +this extensive plain (which it took us two days’ hard riding to +traverse), at its narrowest breadth, to have been once an extensive +forest, in some parts almost impenetrable. Now there is hardly a tree to +be seen; immense pasturages and fields stretch on every side, and numbers +of horses, cattle, and sheep, browse on the luxuriant herbage. We +arrived on the third day at the Gessir il Haded, or iron bridge, where we +first crossed the Orontes, and after skirting the river for a few +minutes, struck off on a wide pathway leading over a mountainous country, +richly dotted with trees, and verdant with wild thyme and lavender. +Small herds of gazelles, startled from their resting-places by the echo +of our horses’ tramp, darted across our pathway, and sought refuge on the +further side of the many lofty hills that now surrounded us. The +Orontes, in its meandering course, occasionally took a sweep and glided +close under our elevated pathway; by and bye we closed in with the river; +myriads of water-fowl and other game flew over our heads. There was a +stately old ruined castle, on a bleak isolated hill; we passed under its +deserted battlements, and in ten minutes afterwards were riding through +the streets of the once famed city of Antioch. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. +ANTIOCH AND LATTAKIA. + + +In Antioch our stay was, much to our regret, comparatively short; for who +would willingly quit so fair a spot—a perfect Paradise, and rich in the +fairest gifts of nature? A healthy climate, a cloudless sky, luxuriant +fruits and flowers, meadows and pasturages, high hills and valleys; the +mountain and the plain bespangled with trees, the wild myrtle and other +fragrant shrubs, intersected by a glorious river; the earth producing +nourishment for droves upon droves of cattle, and domestic as well as +wild fowl; the river abounding in eels, and the distant sea furnishing +delicious fish of fifty varieties. What more could mortal man on earth +desire? All these can Antioch boast of, besides the many pleasant +reminiscences connected with the spot. Its primitive Christian Church, +the great success that crowned the early efforts of those two devout and +indefatigable apostles, Paul and Barnabas;—the city, the birthplace of +St. Luke, the beloved physician, where originated the name of that faith, +which is our pride, our boast, and the source of all our hope; these are +ties which render Antioch, in the devout Christian’s estimation, second +only to Jerusalem. When we were at this place many parts of the once +famous walls of the city were still in perfect condition, a wonderful +proof of the skill and persevering labours of those brave but alas +unsuccessful men who strove permanently to plant the cross in the +countries where it had first been raised, and had once triumphantly +flourished. Though through so many succeeding generations the city has +been subjected to every imaginable disaster, fire, invasion, revolt, and +the terrible effects of violent earthquakes, yet nature still smiles upon +the surrounding country as brightly as ever she shone in the zenith of +her city’s glory. Its palaces and other magnificent buildings, the +handiwork of mortal man, had, with man, all crumbled away to dust. Its +millions of inhabitants have dwindled down to some few thousands, and in +this respect the wreck is complete; but the fairness of the morning, and +the freshness of the breeze, the beauty of the prospect, the flowers, and +fruits, and trees, these continue the same as in the wealthiest era of +the Seleucidæ. Man and man’s triumphant domes are nowhere to be seen; a +few crazily built houses, and a few straggling inhabitants, are all that +now constitute the modern town of Antakia. + +Yet, notwithstanding all this, the vast extent of land in the +neighbourhood of Antioch which is devoted solely to the cultivation of +mulberry-trees, and the great space of still uncultivated ground which +might be devoted to a like purpose, gives ample assurance that, in the +one article of silk alone, an immense revenue might be derived, and a +very large population be maintained in easy, if not affluent, +circumstances. As matters stand at the present day, the silk produced +yields no inconsiderable revenue; but the plantations are the exclusive +property of a few independent proprietors, who, themselves reaping more +than a lion’s share, leave to the great herd of the inhabitants a paltry, +miserable pittance, which can scarcely find them the very barest +necessaries of life, although Antioch is acknowledged to be perhaps the +cheapest place in the known world. + +Whilst at Antioch, we visited the water-mills now occupying the site of +the once celebrated groves of Daphne, and thence returning, took horses +and proceeded to Suedia over the selfsame ground once familiar to Paul +and Barnabas, when those two apostles, like ourselves, went down to +Seleucia to take shipping from thence. The whole space intervening +between Antioch and Suedia, a distance of nearly twenty miles, is +occupied by luxuriant mulberry plantations and orchards of delicious +fruit-trees; fruits that are peculiar to this neighbourhood having been +introduced and cultivated with great care, through a series of many +years, by a philanthropic English gentleman, who distributed cuttings and +grafts throughout the district. + +At Suedia we remained two days, the guests of this hospitable gentleman, +visiting in that interval—the site where stood the pillar of Simeon +Stylites—the delightful country seats of Mr. Barker at Bitias and +Huderbey, and lastly, the splendid ruined tunnel and aqueduct, besides +other remains of the once wealthy Seleucia. This done, we hired an Arab +felucca, which, sailing out of the Orontes, and crossing the Gulf of +Antioch in the short space of seven hours, carried us over to Lattakia, +the ancient Laodicea. + +Arrived at Lattakia, we became the guests of the hospitable brothers +Elias. Signor Mosi Elias is the British vice-consul at that port; and +seldom have I had the happiness of meeting with a more worthy man; but, +in fact, the whole of his family are distinguished for their great +courtesy and hospitality to all strangers. This eulogy may fairly be +extended to all the native agents established along the sea-coast of +Syria; although, unfortunately, their humble efforts are not always duly +appreciated. English gentlemen, accustomed to every comfort and luxury +that wealth can command, little imagine the expense and trouble incurred +by many of the humble Syrian agents in their efforts to afford +hospitality to British travellers. Receiving no salary, and yet +compelled to maintain a certain position to support the dignity of +office, the means in their power must necessarily be limited; but as far +as house-room goes—a bed, a dinner, breakfast, and supper, according to +their limited means; these are always cheerfully offered to the +traveller; and the poor consular agent, who has almost insuperable +difficulties to contend with, so as to enable him to impress the local +authorities with a due sense of the importance and respectability of his +office, is glad to avail himself of the opportunity of having an +Englishman as guest under his roof, to convince the neighbours and his +fellow-townsmen of his influence with the British. I have known +instances where a poor consular agent has even parted with some valuable +family relic, so as to enable him to afford a hearty welcome to some +Englishman of distinction; while, perhaps, the only return he has met +with, was to be treated with supreme contempt and derision, even to his +face; or to have his name bandied about to the world in some gaudily +bound book of travels, in which authors have seen fit to make sport of +men, who, in all probability, sacrificed a night’s rest and comfort to +contribute both towards them in a strange land. + +While on this subject, I may record one instance which came to my +knowledge, and which was really too scandalous not to be made known. + +A party of travellers, for I cannot style them gentlemen, five or six in +number, were travelling through Syria and Palestine, accompanied by a +retinue of servants with tents, baggage, and every luxury and comfort +that money could command. Arriving at one of the seaport towns, where +dwelt an English agent (a good old man, who was a Syrian by birth), they +pitched their tents outside of the town, and sending their insolent +dragoman to the agent, informed him that it was their intention to remain +a couple of days in that neighbourhood, and commanded him to procure them +guides to shew them over the town and its vicinity, so that they might +see all that was worth being seen. To this, the agent really assented; +and “on hospitable thoughts intent,” dressed himself for the occasion, +and, preceded by his _cawass_, went to the travellers’ tents to pay his +respects, and to offer them any little services in his power. Finding +that they required no further aid, he then told them, that although they +had placed the possibility of being useful to them beyond his reach, he +trusted that they would not wholly deprive him of the pleasure of their +company; and invited them to dine at his house at an early hour the next +day. This invitation the travellers, who had barely treated the old man +with civility, thought proper to accept, and the next day they duly made +their appearance. + +Meanwhile, the poor consul, whose stock of crockery was rather scant, and +whose knives and forks mustered but a meagre show, endeavoured, by buying +or borrowing, to make things as tidy and complete as he possibly could; +but it often happens, that in such small villages as that in which the +agent resided, and where European vessels seldom resort, European +merchandise is very rare; and such a thing as a plated spoon or a knife +and fork, is not to be met with for love or money. This was precisely +the case in the instance before us; and the poor agent was put to his +wit’s end in discovering that, after every effort, his stock of knives +still fell short of the necessary complement by a knife. In this +dilemma, he was quite at a nonplus what to do; till, finally, he resolved +to throw himself upon the known courtesy of an Englishman, and explain +exactly how matters stood; begging of the guests on their arrival to let +their servants fetch from their own tents such implements for table use, +as were indispensably requisite for the accommodation of all. + +No sooner, however, had the poor agent explained the state of affairs by +means of the interpreter, than the guests, one and all, fell into a +violent passion, and asked the consul how he had dared to insult them by +asking them to dinner, when he was not in a position to treat them as +became persons of their rank and distinction. Saying this, they swept +from the room in a towering passion, leaving the poor agent lost in +amazement how to account for such conduct from persons who styled +themselves English gentlemen, and overcome with shame and vexation that +his neighbours should have been witness to such an outrage. + +This anecdote requires no comment. Happily such instances of gross +misconduct are of rare occurrence, but it plainly exemplifies the absurd +system followed by government in placing native agents all over Syria and +Turkey, to whom they do not afford means of maintaining a position which +ought to command respect. + +The present system of native agencies is altogether a mistake; they +should be entrusted only to those who have previously had a European +education. Most of those now employed have been reared in dread of the +very name of the _local powers_, and are inefficient in cases of +controversy between subjects of two nations. + +I may here be permitted to deviate a little from the subject of Lattakia +and my travels, to make a few remarks on the uses and abuses of the +protection-system, so largely practised all over Syria and Turkey. + +The abuses of the system are very great; this is much to be regretted, +because in the main the arrangements existing between the Ottoman +government and European powers with regard to this particular subject, +viz., that of the privileges enjoyed by Europeans to protect a limited +number of persons actually in the service of consuls, merchants, and +others, is a very great boon to Europeans. Were it not for this +privilege, Europeans residing in Syria would find it a very difficult +matter to procure good and efficient servants at moderate wages. + +In some parts of Syria, where every creature-comfort or necessary is +extremely cheap, the lower orders, who are generally of an indolent +disposition, would much prefer remaining idle for one-half of the year to +engaging in any occupation which might make it incumbent on them to go +through a certain portion of daily labour; and this they can afford to +do, as their habits are frugal, and the amount gained in one day by a +labourer, will suffice to support himself and family for three days. +This applies equally to the fellah or peasant employed in cultivation. +His portion of the silk harvest is sufficient to maintain him till the +wheat crop is gathered in, when he earns with his scythe a sufficiency to +maintain him in idleness till the olive and grape harvests arrive, and +then he is either paid in cash or allowed a certain quantity of wheat, +oil, wine, aqua vitæ, _dibis_, {92} raisins, etc., as recompense for his +labour. Of this store he lays by a sufficiency for the winter; the silk +and the surplus of the wheat, etc., he either sells or barters for other +household requisites, such as clothing, butter and charcoal. He brings +his own fuel from the mountains, and, if he be at all a careful manager, +can keep an ass or a mule of his own to carry goods and passengers to and +from the nearest towns and villages. Thus, with a very small amount of +labour, the peasant of Syria can afford to have an idle time of it, were +he not in terror of government taxes; for although the system of taxation +is fairly and justly arranged, and in reality the sums levied are small +in proportion to the income, still there are understrappers, besides +their own Christian Nazir and Sheikhs, who peculate to a large extent +under the plea of some false necessity. This induces the peasant gladly +to embrace any opportunity that may offer of entering into the service of +a Frank; for from the hour of his employment he is, to all intents and +purposes, the subject of another power; he is exempt from taxation, and +the officials durst not intrude themselves upon the privacy of his +household, under penalty of being at loggerheads with the consuls and +pashas, and possibly of being exposed to the ignominy of the bastinado. + +Now the very possession of this power to protect is sufficient to raise +an Englishman much in the estimation of the Turks, and other natives of +Syria; and were this privilege used with moderation, and not abused, it +would become, as I have already stated, a boon to Europeans. + +The great misfortune is that there is no existing line of distinction +which might separate the herd of Syro-European inhabitants, from those +really and virtually Europeans by birth and education. These two +distinct classes are as separated from each other as light is from +darkness, yet unfortunately possessing like powers and like privileges, +the latter class, who fill the posts of consuls, merchants, clerks, +missionaries, _doctors_, and a few tradesmen being strictly gentlemen in +their principles. + +The former class consists of men, whose paternal ancestors were European, +and who scrupulously claim their rights as such. Most of them have +intermarried amongst their own peculiar class, so as to form a distinct +and new race of inhabitants in Syria. They have inherited from their +fathers in a lineal descent, their names, nationality, and wealth, and in +many instances their consular dignity. Some few have inherited the +consulates without proportionate means to support the dignity, and the +mass of this class being linked together by marriage ties, almost every +man is grandfather, uncle, cousin, nephew, father, brother, or son, or +brother-in-law to his next-door neighbour. It is with this latter class +in particular that the abuse of the protection system prevails to an +alarming extent. + +There are in Syria few or none of that troublesome class of Europeans +that so infest Constantinople, Smyrna, and Alexandria. I allude to +political and other refugees: these find no occupation or encouragement +in Syria, where there are no established gambling-houses, or other dens +to which they can resort. + +To be classed as a European merchant in Syria, requires no very great +outlay of capital; take, for example, the following instance:— + +Messrs. A--- and Co., a wealthy English firm, established at Beyrout or +elsewhere, receive annually from three to four thousand bales of British +manufactured goods, and they ship goods to an equally large amount. They +necessarily require the services of not only household servants, but +cashiers, native writers, and warehousemen. These men are very properly +admitted to the privilege of temporarily enjoying the protection of a +British subject. + +Perhaps the next-door neighbour to these gentlemen is a Mr. B--- who is +also styled a merchant, because once, or perhaps twice in a twelvemonth, +he goes through the form of receiving a solitary bale of goods; this +bale, in all probability, being sent through his hands as a blind, by +some wealthier relative, to impress the local authorities with an idea of +his wealth, and to enable him to establish his claim to rank as a +merchant. This man pretends to find occupation for as many people as the +solid English house does, and every man in his employment, and under his +protection (perhaps the cook only excepted) is a man of substance. It +would be a problem hard to solve by any uninitiated traveller or stranger +how to account for this; how this man who is notoriously poor, and whose +miserable single bale of manufactures would barely counter-balance the +expenditure of his household for a single week, can manage to support so +vast a retinue, find occupation for so many people, and keep up such an +appearance of state; but the secret lies in a nut-shell. In his case +_the master is the hireling of the servant_. His warehouseman alone (who +drives a thriving trade in the wealthiest bazaar) pays him perhaps, sixty +pounds sterling per annum, to enjoy the privilege of European protection; +so that at this rate, and as the list of protected is a long one, the +Syro-European merchant is in the receipt of an excellent income; he keeps +his horses and gives grand entertainments; but as far as conscience or +honesty goes, these are two hard words not to be met with in his +vocabulary. + +This is _infamous_! But even this is a trifle in comparison to what is +done by such as are invested with authority as consuls. These have a +long list of protected, and the consular secretary, and consular +interpreter has each his own peculiar protégées; and so the number goes +on gradually downwards, until we arrive at the consular _cawass_; and +even he can boast of one or more on his list! Thus, in lieu of a consul +only protecting a _dozen or fourteen_ individuals (which is about treble +the number he is, strictly speaking, allowed), he in fact is the indirect +means of affording protection to many _scores_ of individuals; each of +whom is a dead loss to the treasury of the local government, and a +burthen to his poorer and less fortunate brethren; and this because the +exact amount of any given tax to be collected being beforehand fixed by +the government, the Nazirs and Sheikhs allot to each man of the village +his own portion; and what should have fallen on the shoulders of the +exempted or protected man, is obliged to be made good by those persons +who are subjected to the tax. + +But this is not all: the subordinate officers in some of the European +Consulates are guilty of equally gross offences. The consuls are apt to +be wheedled over by the cunning dragoman or chancellor, so completely, +that at last they place a blind and implicit faith in their every word or +suggestion, and will on no consideration listen to complaints often too +justly founded against these upstart Jacks in office. + +An instance of this occurred to myself; but I will, from delicacy to the +high official functionary mixed up with it, omit names of places and +persons. A native Prince was anxious to call upon one of the +authorities, but being unacquainted with the English language, he desired +me to accompany him; not but that the authority in question was furnished +with an interpreter, but simply, because the Prince wished, for privacy’s +sake, that the matter of conversation should be confined to ourselves, +without any prying ears being witness to the interview. Arriving at the +office, we were shown in; but the interpreter ushering the Prince into +one apartment, showed me into another. I was quite amazed at this +strange proceeding; but as the dragoman immediately left the room, I +could only conjecture that it was some sly trick of his own, or a wish to +be possessed of information regarding the Prince. Whichever motive it +might have been, the visit terminated without my seeing the official. On +a subsequent occasion, however, I alluded to the matter; the dragoman was +taxed with it but stoutly denied having done anything of the kind, +declaring that I of my own accord had gone into another room. I brought +the Prince’s testimony to prove how the man had slighted me; but +notwithstanding all this, that lying interpreter had gained such +influence with this high official, that our testimony was discarded, and +he was believed. + +After this long digression from the subject, for which I beg the reader’s +kind forgiveness, I now resume the thread of my narrative. + +The staple produce of Lattakia is wheat, silk, and tobacco; {97} of +these, the latter is considered to be the finest and most odoriferous in +the world; and the _aboo reah_, though many attempts have been made to +introduce it into other parts of Syria, will grow nowhere else save at +Jabaliy, a small seaport town about three hours to the southward of +Lattakia, and where one of the Sultans who had abdicated his throne and +withdrawn himself from the world, built a magnificent mosque, and some +other public edifices, the ruins of many of which are still to be seen, +and which render “Sultan Ibrahim,” as Jabaliy is from these circumstances +styled, an object of interest to travellers. + +Whilst at Lattakia a messenger arrived with dispatches, summoning us to +Beyrout. On our arrival there, we found the combined Austrian, Turkish, +and English fleets anchored before the town, to compel the Egyptians to +evacuate Syria, and at the invitation of my friend, Ahmed Bey, I paid him +a visit on board of the Turkish Admiral’s vessel, who despatched me on a +secret mission to the mountains; whilst there I was filled with +consternation by hearing a report that Ibrahim Pasha, having obtained +intelligence of my movements, had set a price upon my head. I +immediately burnt all my papers, changed my dress, and travelled in +disguise of a beggar, expecting every moment to be recognised and +beheaded. At last I reached a village called Arrayah, near the road to +Damascus; here I had some relations, and I immediately went to them for +shelter. + +After I had been there a few days, the news of it reached the governor, +and he immediately sent two _cawass_ to arrest me; but the servant of my +friend, having received information that I was being pursued, hid me in +the harem apartments, which are accessible to none but the head of the +family, a priest, or a physician; here I was secreted, and on their +arrival, they even sent in a priest to the harem to ascertain if I was +there; but the vigilance of my protectors evaded them even in this, and I +was let down from the window in a basket into the garden, from whence I +escaped to a cave close by till midnight; I then made my way back to my +relations, who told me of the close search the _cawass_ had made, and the +disappointment they experienced at not finding me. + +A few days after this an English traveller passed through the place, and +understanding a little of his language, I offered my services to +accompany him to Beyrout, under the title of _turjaman_; and according to +the laws of Turkey, I no sooner joined him than I was under British +protection. By this means I reached Beyrout in safety; and finding that +the Capitan Pasha had gone to Acre, I joined the English forces, and +then, for the first time in my life, witnessed the consummate skill and +accuracy with which the troops carried on the warfare. + +Nothing could have been more ingenious than the plan of attack. The +Turkish troops, arriving in steamers and vessels of war, were during the +night, with the utmost precaution, transhipped to the British vessel; and +next morning, those vessels, supposed by the forces on shore to carry +troops, were towed down by the “Geyser” and other steamers towards +Ras-Beyrout, which occasioned the whole of the Egyptian forces to +evacuate the town, and take up a strong position in that neighbourhood. +When the steamers perceived this, they altered their course and proceeded +to Dog River. Here a few Albanians had been stationed to oppose them. +These were mown down by the heavy batteries of the frigates, who landed +their troops and took unmolested possession of the place. Soon after +they were joined by Beschir Kasir, with a body of men from the mountains, +whom the English commandant supplied with arms, etc. And thus the +victory was won. + +I remained with the army several weeks, and assisted in the operations +against the Egyptians; and after the conclusion of peace, accompanied an +English officer and a numerous body of attendants to Tripoli, or as we +call it, Trablous, the beautiful orange garden of the world. People talk +so much about St. Michael oranges; for my part, I have never seen any +orange in the world whose flavour and scent could equal that of Trablous; +besides which, they are so plentiful and cheap, that although all the +sea-coasts, and the interior of Syria and Palestine, and even parts of +Asia Minor, are supplied with boat-loads and camel-loads of oranges from +Tripoli, there is still abundance left to cause them to be a cheap as +well as a delicious luxury. Our duty here, as elsewhere, was to see that +the people of the place and the neighbourhood were well governed—to hear +complaints and bring them in a proper form before the local authorities, +to the end that injured parties might obtain redress—and to enquire into +and make notes of everything that occurred. + +The natives had christened my friend “Abu Rish,” which being literally +translated, means “the father of a feather”; they gave him this name +because he always sported a large feather in his cocked hat, which was +seldom set aside in his journeyings. I have no doubt but that many of +the ignorant and half wild natives of some of the villages that we passed +through looked upon this hat and feathers in something the same light as +the native of the savage island regarded that of Captain Cook, +considering it to be a very strangely formed head, an abnormal +amalgamation of the cock with the man. + +We were lodged at Tripoli, with the Signor Catsoflis, the British +vice-consul, at whose house we experienced much hospitality. Signor +Catsoflis and his brother, the Austrian vice-consul, are twins; and so +strong is the resemblance between them, that it is barely possible for a +stranger to distinguish the one from the other when apart. The wife of +Signor Catsoflis, the Austrian vice-consul, is the sister of Signor +Elias, the vice consul at Lattakia. I never before, or since, have set +eyes on any woman that could rival her in beauty, and her disposition was +as sweet as her face was lovely. This lady made a complaint to me on +behalf of a fellow Christian, a poor peasant from the mountains, who +accustomed to rove about free, and in such dress as his fancy dictated, +amongst his own villagers, unwittingly made his appearance in the streets +of Tripoli, dressed in a light robe of a greenish colour, which excited +the wrath and indignation of some fanatics, who, saying that none but +descendants from the prophet could be permitted to wear any colour +approaching to green, tore the garment from the poor fellow’s back, beat +and otherwise shamefully ill-treated him; this was the instance of the +complaint. “And now,” said the fair advocate, addressing herself to me, +“let me see if you and your friend are really possessed of such influence +and authority as you vaunt yourselves of, by causing the wrongs of this +poor unoffending man to be redressed.” If anything could have spurred me +to the deed, it was certainly being thus taunted by one of the handsomest +women in the world. I immediately agreed to comply with her wishes, and, +girding on my sword, took the Cawass, and proceeded direct to Yusuf +Pasha. Before going, however, I had donned a pair of Wellington boots +that a European friend had lent me; and the brilliant emerald green of +whose tops must have inspired the gaping Moslems in the streets with the +utmost envy and rage. + +I entered into the presence of the governor without even announcing +myself, an abrupt proceeding which not a little disconcerted His +Excellency, who began anxiously to question me, hoping that I was the +bearer of good, not of unfavourable, news. I stated the case to the +governor, and he replied very civilly, that he regretted that it did not +come within his jurisdiction, being purely a question of creed. The +Cadi, however, being summoned to the divan, tried to shuffle out of the +matter as best he could; he said it was decidedly against the law of the +prophet, and that the aggressor merited the punishment. I asked him +whether this law was intended to bear only upon certain individuals, or +upon all. The Cadi replied, upon all; then, said I, if such be the case, +you had better take me and give me a bastinadoing, for as you see, +pointing to my boots, nothing can be a brighter green than those are; +this completely confounded the Cadi. I insisted on having the men +bastinadoed on the very spot where the outrage had been committed; the +consequence was, that after some little demur, I carried the day, and +they were punished as I had directed. This event occasioned immense +sensation amongst the inhabitants, and impressed them with a due notion +of the influence and power of the British nation, tending to keep the +more fanatical within bounds, since no rank, or grade, or riches could +protect them from punishment if they once gave offence to Europeans. + +After remaining some time at Tripoli, we proceeded to visit the famous +cedars of Lebanon. There are at present eleven of these celebrated +trees, seven of which are supposed to have existed from the time of the +building of Solomon’s temple. I need scarcely inform my readers how +conspicuously these trees have figured in Scriptural metaphors. The +prophet Ezekiel speaks in glowing terms of their beauty. Again, Isaiah +seems in a remarkable manner to predict their extinction, “The rest of +the trees of this forest shall be few that a child may write them.” How +literally has this prophecy been fulfilled! + +On my last visit to Syria I found the priest, to whom the charge of these +trees is committed, had planted a number of seedlings, though with what +success I have not yet heard. A church has also been built on the spot. +The Arabs believe they were planted by the hands of the Almighty himself, +and there are innumerable traditions connected with these trees, which I +hope to give an account of in a future work. One of these cedars is of +so great a diameter, that a monk actually hollowed it out and formed a +sort of room in which he took up his abode. The trunks are covered with +names of travellers, many of a very old date cut out with the knife. + +From the cedars we proceeded to the wonderful ruins of Baalbec; but these +have been often described by various travellers. After a beautiful +journey of two days over verdant hills and down deep ravines, we reached +Damascus, where I was pleased beyond measure to meet my connexions and +acquaintances. At this time several European officers were travelling +over Syria in all directions on diplomatic missions. These endeavoured +to ascertain the exact capabilities of every town and village, as regards +the number of men that could bear arms; the number of cattle, horses, +etc.; the arms and quantity of ammunition, and the proportion that the +Moslem population bore to the Christians. Of these gallant officers, one +was sent to Damascus, and whilst residing there, he was very much +captivated by the beauty of the Moslem ladies. On first arriving, this +gentleman was well received by the grey-bearded authorities; but he soon +lost caste; reports and complaints were of every-day occurrence; this +white stranger would persist in making love to the Moslem ladies, and the +Moslem girls would persist in making love to him. This was a dreadful +state of affairs; but this was not all, for even the old Armenian +patriarch was roused into wrath by discovering that a timid little +Armenian girl was actually head over ears in love with the +feather-crowned stranger, or rather with his money. There was no +standing this. The people said it was a crying shame, and reported it to +the Cadi, who complained to Nedjid Pasha; and the Pasha, who was one of +the old school, and a right down Frank hater, complained to the +Commander-in-Chief of the forces at Beyrout. The Commander-in-Chief sent +several officers up to Damascus to investigate the case, which was tried +in open divan before the Pasha, who summoned such as had charges against +the gallant officer to appear before him. The charges brought against +him were twofold. First, that he had endeavoured to subvert the minds of +the people from rendering due homage to Ottoman authority, by asking them +such significant questions as, for instance, If the English or the French +were to lay siege to the country, with which of the powers would you +side? The second charge was, the heinous offence of making love to some +score of Turkish damsels, besides the Armenian lady in question. The +first charge was thrown out as frivolous, absurd, and annoying; the +second was fully proved. + +I acted as turjaman Bashi to the Court of enquiry, and from the +circumstance of the gentleman being in a foreign land, I was naturally +disposed to lean rather to the side of the European. The Mahommedans +observed this, and were very spiteful against me. The result of all this +was, that the military gentleman was advised to leave Damascus; but he, +availing himself of a moonless night, put a termination to the whole +affair, by starting off for the sea-coast, carrying away with him a fair, +young widow, who had captured his heart by her dancing, and to whom he +was ultimately married; and, for aught I know to the contrary, they are +to this day a very loving and happy couple. Strange to say, neither +understood a word of each other’s language, and it would appear, from +this example, that words are not necessary where such expressive things +as eyes and flowers are brought into play. + +This romantic lady, after a lapse of time, settled at Beyrout, together +with her affectionate husband; the story had preceded them to this place, +but they soon mixed in society as though nothing had happened. The +Syrians, though strictly moral, mingle humanity with their laws of +etiquette; they do not, as in England, for ever exclude from society such +as have been guilty of so trivial a peccadillo as this lady was guilty +of. They remember that all are but frail mortals and apt to err. + +To me the English appear to be over severe. It is true, that in Turkey +the Moslems are entitled to four wives, and that in England a man can +only marry one; but I should like to know who is the greater delinquent, +he that avowedly and opening admits of polygamy, or that man, who, as is +often the case amongst society in England, and indeed all Europe, vowing +solemnly at the altar that “_forsaking all others he will keep only with +her_,” marries one wife, and at the same time continues to associate with +half a dozen other women? For my part, whenever I hear of an English +lady eloping, I cannot help fearing that she has been driven to it by the +inconstancy or neglect of a wicked husband. + +In Damascus, at the period I am writing of, there dwelt an extraordinary +man, well known to the English who visited the place as the proprietor of +a large hotel, by the name of Sayed Ali; he also filled the office of +chancellor to the English consulate. This extraordinary character could +speak and write several languages with the utmost fluency, and no one +could fathom out what countryman he was, or what creed he professed. +With the English he was an Englishman, and none could doubt his +pronunciation. This was the case with the French; whilst the Turks, +listening in admiration to his high flow of Stamboline Turkish, and his +profound knowledge of the Koran, ranked him amongst the most devout and +most learned of their citizens. One thing only was positive with regard +to Sayed Ali, and that was, that his wife was a Moslem, the daughter of +some fanatical Sheikh. Sayed’s wife had an extremely handsome sister; +who having been seen but once, had captivated the heart of an old English +official, who at that time resided at Damascus; and this gentleman, +notwithstanding the great disparity between them in every respect, in +age, rank and creed, determined, cost what it might, to marry the girl. +Female friends were employed as go-betweens, and these so effectually +wrought upon the imagination of the fair lady, that she actually resolved +to embrace Christianity, and fly for succour to the arms of her lover. +Things had arrived at this pitch, when Sayed Ali accidentally got scent +of what was going on; he subsequently declared to me, that had it not +been for the high official position of the gentleman in question, he +certainly would have shot him; as it was, he contented himself with +calling at his sister-in-law’s house, and knocking at the door drew his +sword; the girl responding to the knock, opened the door, when the +infuriated Sayed Ali made a murderous attack upon her, and inflicted a +wound on her shoulder, a repetition of which must have proved fatal. As +this happened during the day, the noise attracted a crowd around the +house, and the girl was rescued. Rendered desperate by this, Sayed Ali +made a plunge at himself, and inflicted a wound in his abdomen of nearly +an inch deep; not, however, relishing the sensation, the monster drew out +his sword, and calling lustily for aid was forthwith carried away to his +own house. Here he was attended by the English medical officers then at +Damascus. I shortly after called to see him, and to inquire into the +cause of this murderous onslaught. In reply, he told me that his motives +were what I have already stated; he was determined that his name should +not be defamed, or his wife’s family put to shame by the act of a +thoughtless, capricious child, winding up, however, with— + +“I’m glad I have not killed her, and for my part I’ll never be such a +fool again as to stab myself to please any one in Damascus.” + +The doctor dressed the wounds, and both shortly afterwards recovered, +whilst the greatest delinquent in the affair suffered neither pain or +inconvenience from his gross misconduct. He is now in high office under +the government at Constantinople. This is a fair sample of the abuses +practised by many of those in authority, who in lieu of holding out a +pattern for imitation, both by example and precept, are unfortunately too +prone to indulge their own vicious propensities, setting all propriety, +honour, and justice at defiance. I do not mean to say that all incline +in the same way—that all are addicted to falling desperately in love with +every girl they meet; but this I assert, with very few exceptions, they +have their peculiar fancies, for the gratification of which they stoop to +many acts of meanness. In illustration of what I say, I may be permitted +to quote one more instance,—a case widely different from the foregoing, +and yet equally offensive to honourable minds. + +“One man, a sycophant, partly to curry favour with a great man whom he +wished to oblige, partly to satisfy his avaricious propensities, delayed +a steam packet twenty-four hours beyond its fixed time of departure, +because the vessel chanced to sail upon a Saturday, and the great man in +question was a Jew; he detained the steamer till Sunday morning to +accommodate the fastidious Hebrew, and to profit by his commission on the +lordly passage money. + +“Now this man is professedly a Christian, but he prefers breaking the +Christian’s sabbath to inconveniencing his friend or his pocket; but +apart from all this, we have still to calculate the losses arising from +the expenses incurred by such a vessel lying unnecessarily idle—the risk +of insurance, and the loss of time to money, cargo, and letters.” {107} + +But let us turn to a more pleasing subject. In these latter days of +progression and civilisation, Damascus happily has kept pace with the +other towns in Syria; there has been a large influx of European +merchants. The Greek patriarch has, in the true spirit of civilization, +and after great exertions, established a school which will be productive +of much good. + +From Damascus we went down to Sidon, visiting, _en route_, the residence +of the late Lady Hester Stanhope, at Djouni, which was even then fast +falling to decay. Lady Hester I had known personally, and although +clever and eccentric, with a head full of strange fancies, yet she had a +heart not devoid of good feeling and kind intentions. For my part, I can +always recollect, with grateful pleasure, the kind reception I met with +at her house, and if there is any thing which I consider base, it is the +conduct of her biographer (who was also her physician), and who has +abused a sacred trust to pander to the inquisitiveness of the European +world; or else to contribute to the depth and weight of his own purse, +has raked up the ashes of one, who at least towards himself, was the best +of friends and patronesses; and whether the book contains much of truth +or much of imagination, it is either a breach of confidence of the very +worst order, or a libel on the dead which there is none to controvert or +dispute. + +At Sidon there, at that time, resided General Loustannau, whose life +abounded more in romantic incidents than all the novels of our most +celebrated writers. In India he had served under a native Prince with +such courage and distinction, and through so long a period of years that +he had amassed an immense fortune. He was at the time of my visit a +half-witted mendicant, one of the many objects of the late Lady Hester +Stanhope’s benevolence, and one who, like herself, was subject to many +extravagant eccentricities. The story of Loustannau is so remarkable +that I cannot refrain from quoting part of it from Mr. Kelly’s work on +Syria: + +“General Loustannau was a native of Aidens, in the department of Basses +Pyrénées; his family was not wealthy, and his youthful ardour impelled +him to seek his fortune in foreign lands. Arriving at Bordeaux for the +purpose of embarking for America, he found a vessel about to sail for +India with M. de Saint Lubin, who was commissioned by Louis XVI. to +propose to the Mahrattas a treaty of alliance, offensive and defensive, +against the English. Loustannau took advantage of the opportunity, gave +up his American project, and in due time found himself amongst the +Mahrattas. This was in the year 1778, when he was twenty years of age. +War had for some time existed between the Mahrattas and the English, and +Loustannau, who wished to take service with the former, obtained a letter +of recommendation to M. Norogue, a Portuguese officer, who commanded +their forces. That General received him very courteously, but thought +him too young to be entrusted with any command. Loustannau, however, +accompanied the army in its movements, and was witness to the continual +advantages afforded the English by the unskilfulness of General Norogue. +The Mahrattas, though thrice outnumbering their enemies, were constantly +forced to yield their ground; at last the prince succeeded in bringing +the English to an engagement in a position unfavourable to the latter, +inasmuch as it allowed of their being out-flanked by the superior number +of their adversaries. But this did not avail them; the English +entrenched themselves on an eminence from which their batteries committed +great havoc among the Mahrattas. Loustannau observing a height which +commanded the English position, immediately mentioned the fact to +Norogue, who received this communication with supercilious indifference. +Stung to the quick by this contemptuous treatment, Loustannau addressed +himself to a Mahratta chief through an interpreter, and with the reckless +enthusiasm of youth, pledged his head that he would be successful if he +were given the command of a few pieces of cannon. Three thousand horse +and ten guns were placed under his orders; the result surpassed his +hopes, and the English were driven from their position with great loss. +In spite of Norogue’s jealousy, a choncadar with a gold stick was soon +sent in quest of the young Frenchman, who had rendered such essential +service to the national cause. Loustannau was presented to the chiefs +who exercised the regency, and received a magnificent present. He +remained in the service of the Mahrattas, and soon had a corps of 2000 +men under his exclusive command. He took part in all the subsequent +operations against the English, and was mainly instrumental in inflicting +upon them those losses which for a while seemed to place our Indian +empire in such imminent jeopardy. + +“At the battle of Chassepachrer, he routed our seapoys with great +slaughter; the battle was ended, the English artillery alone continued to +fire a few volleys in its retreat, in order to protect the fugitives, +when a grape-shot struck Loustannau in the left hand and carried off the +four fingers and half the thumb. It was long before he recovered from +the effects of this wound. When the stump was healed, he had a silver +hand of very ingenious workmanship fitted to it. The first day he +appeared at the head of his troops with this new kind of hand, a priest +threw himself prostrate before his horse’s feet, crying out, that the +‘prophecy was fulfilled, since it was written in the temple of the God +Siva, that the Mahrattas were to reach the summit of their glory under a +man from the far west, who should have a silver hand, and prove +invincible.’ + +“Loustannau was thenceforth looked upon as something almost superhuman. +Diamonds, precious stones, the richest presents of every kind, were +lavished on him from all sides. He was assigned a magnificent palace, +with all the appurtenances of royal luxury. His stables contained thirty +elephants sumptuously caparisoned, and a hundred and fifty horses, the +best that India could produce. His body-guard consisted of 2000 men, +with four pieces of cannon; and the principal chief had two colossal +silver hands planted before the entrance of the palace that all men might +know, by that token, that the man of destiny was the leader of the +national forces. + +“Another campaign took place, in which Loustannau was again successful, +and which terminated greatly to the satisfaction of the Mahrattas. On +his return to Azra, he was received with honours such as were used to be +conferred only on princes and sultans; and the ruling prince solemnly +declared him ‘The Lion of the State and the Tiger in War.’ + +“Loustannau married the daughter of a French officer in India; he had now +been eighteen years among the Mahrattas; he had several children, and his +wife urged him to return to Europe to enjoy the fruits of his toils. + +“Notwithstanding his excessive generosity, the wealth he had accumulated +was enormous; but, from the moment he quitted the territory of the +Mahrattas, fortune, which till then had been so lavish to him of her +favours, forsook him all at once, and the rest of his life was but one +series of disasters and sorrows. He converted his whole fortune into +paper, for he had not yet made up his mind where he would settle, and he +did not wish to purchase any estates before his arrival. His homeward +voyage was long and difficult; and he was several times in danger of +shipwreck. When, at last, after a seven-month’s passage, he reached +France, the assignats had fallen into such utter depreciation, that he +found the 8,000,000 of francs he had remitted home dwindled down to +220,000. This first blow made a terrible impression on a temper so +violent as his, and so spoiled by prosperity; but he still possessed a +considerable amount in diamonds, some of which he sold, and with the +proceeds he settled in Tarbes with his family, consisting of two sons and +three daughters. Shortly afterwards, he lost his favourite son, and his +grief was such as to occasion him an attack of insanity, from which he +did not completely recover for two years. When he was restored to his +senses, he set about constructing extensive iron works on the frontiers +of Spain, in order to afford his restless energies an object on which to +employ themselves. For three years, his sole pleasure consisted in +superintending his engineers and workmen, and watching the progress of +the great constructions he planned. + +“Things were in this state when fresh misfortunes befell him. He was on +the point of realising the profits of his enterprise, when war broke out +between France and Spain. Immediately upon the first disasters of the +French arms, his buildings were burned, his furnaces destroyed, and his +hopes annihilated. The ruin of his fortune was almost complete, and he +only supported himself by selling, one by one, the costly jewels he had +brought from India. All these misfortunes impaired his reason; he had +continued fits of overwrought devotion, amounting at times to insanity. +His family lived on in this way until 1815, in a state of mediocrity very +hard to endure after their brilliant condition and their opulence in past +years. + +“In 1815, Loustannau’s only surviving son, who was a captain in the +imperial guards, was dangerously wounded at Waterloo. His father saw +himself on the point of losing him, and this shock seemed to restore to +him the possession of his faculties. When he recovered, all the revived +energies of his character were concentrated on the thought, how destitute +would be the state of his family after his death; he determined, +therefore to return to India, though many years had elapsed since he left +it. His son wished to go in his stead, but he would not hear of this; +and in 1816 he embarked for Egypt, having raised the necessary funds for +his journey by pledging a ruby of rare value, the last gift of his +Mahratta patron. Not finding in Egypt an opportunity of pursuing his way +by the Red Sea, he crossed over to Syria, with the intention of joining +the caravan from Damascus to Bassorah; but he fell dangerously ill at +Acre, his brain being again affected; he squandered away all his money in +his delirium, and destroyed bills of exchange and other valuable papers. +After this, he suffered for awhile all the horrors of penury, and the +renowned Loustannau—’The Lion of the State and the Tiger in War’—was +reduced to earn his bread as a day-labourer. In this deplorable +condition he was found by M. Catafago, a wealthy Levantine merchant, who +relieved his wants and took him into his house. + +“Loustannau had occasionally lucid intervals, in which he talked of his +past greatness, and related the history of his life and his afflictions; +but he had the mortification of seeing that everything he uttered seemed +to his hearers but an additional proof of his insanity. To make all +sure, however, letters were written to France, requesting information +respecting this extraordinary man; and at last his son, who had heard +nothing of him for two years, made all haste to Syria, and found his +unfortunate father almost wholly deprived of reason. His journey to +India was henceforth clearly impossible. The Captain had gathered +together the last remnants of his fortune; and he remained for some time +in Syria, doing everything that affection could suggest, in the hope of +restoring his father to himself. + +“It was at this period that the old man’s melancholy story reached the +ears of Lady Hester Stanhope. She was then in the hey-day of her fame, +and she offered Loustannau and his son an asylum in her house. At the +first sight of the latter, she was struck with the resemblance that he +bore to the gallant lover she had lost. From the lines of his hand, the +form of his foot, and the aspect of the stars, she gathered that the life +of Captain Loustannau was destined to be inseparably connected with her +own. The Captain, however, had not lost sight of his Indian project, for +he still hoped to recover some remains of the vast property his father +must have left in that country. Lady Hester dissuaded him from going to +India, and undertook to employ every possible means of recovering what +remained of the old General’s property or fortune; but great changes had +occurred since the old man had left the country. Wellesley’s +(Wellington) victories had put the English in possession of a great +portion of the Mahratta territory; Loustannau’s princely protectors were +no more, and his property had passed into other hands. + +“It was a singular chance that brought together in a corner of Syria two +beings so remarkable as General Loustannau and Lady Hester Stanhope; they +had long, mystical conversations together, and Lady Hester looked on +Loustannau as a prophet who was come to prepare the way for her, and to +be the forerunner of her triumph. The Captain sought to beguile the +tedium of his existence by managing the household and the pecuniary +affairs of Lady Hester. She treated him with the most assiduous kindness +until his death, which happened, I believe, in 1825. Her feelings +towards him were those of pure friendship, tinged by the memory of her +youthful affections and stimulated by the fantastic notion that a secret +bond irrevocably united his destiny with her own. After his death, she +had him buried in her garden, and twice every day she visited his grave, +decorated it with flowers, and remained by it absorbed in long reveries. + +“General Loustannau’s insanity became more intense after his son’s death, +his delusions being greatly augmented by his intercourse with Lady Hester +Stanhope. Celestial music floated round him; for a while he believed +himself called to give battle to Bonaparte, who, he said, had returned to +the earth under the form of Antichrist; and in 1831 he declared it his +destiny to become king of Jerusalem when the fulness of time should have +been accomplished. He had now warm altercations with Lady Hester; for he +asserted his right to the bay mare with the natural saddle, whilst her +ladyship was to have the white mare, and to ride with him into the Holy +City as his wife, her place being at his left-hand and a little behind +him. + +“Her ladyship very soon saw it written in the stars that Loustannau and +herself were to part. Accordingly she had a house fitted up for his +reception at Abra, a village within five miles of her own residence, on +the road to Sidon. But she continued her benevolent protection towards +him, and did not let him want for anything requisite for his comfort. + +“Lady Hester died in June, 1839, a few days before the battle of Neizeb, +which she had foretold with rather surprising accuracy. Her wealth was +all gone. She even left considerable debts, and her property was +instantly seized by her creditors. Loustannau being thus once more +reduced to entire destitution, the French consul of Sidon took charge of +him, and gave him a humble lodging in the French khan. Thus this +venerable old man, who had once possessed immense wealth, commanded great +armies, and enriched multitudes of Europeans, now subsisted on charity. +It has long been generally supposed that he was dead, as asserted by M. +Jouay. He is dead, it is true, to all purposes of active life, but he +has still a few lucid intervals in the midst of his harmless religious +insanity. Happily for him, he has almost wholly lost his memory, and of +all his past greatness he recollects nothing distinctly except the title +he bore in India. Often does he proudly repeat that they called him +formerly ‘The Lion of the State and the Tiger in War;’ and then, sadly +reverting to his present condition, he subjoins, ‘And now I am nothing +but an unfortunate beggar.’” + +Such is the admirable account given by Mr. Kelly of this singular +individual, who passed through all the stages from happiness and +affluence to misery and destitution. Loustannau is now dead, not only to +purposes of active life, but dead in the literal sense of the word, and +his bones repose in the European cemetery at Sidon; the life of this man +and the site of his troubles affording a fresh incentive for strangers to +visit Sidon, in addition to its ancient fame as a city of the days of +Solomon. + +Sidon is perhaps the most delightfully situated town in all Palestine. +Abounding with pleasant gardens, and rides and walks; the climate is +healthy, and the commerce of the place is rising into importance, and the +harbour capable of great improvement. In May, 1851, the families of two +American missionaries established themselves in this neighbourhood, and +already the schools and the works of the mission are prospering. + +From Sidon we visited Tyre!—poor, solitary, desolate Tyre—in whose meagre +forsaken town and bare rugged rocks, we had manifest proof of the +never-failing veracity of Scripture prophecy. How else would the once +greatest city of the earth, whose ships visited all parts, whose +merchants had a world-wide reputation, be now an utter desolation, +inhabited only by a few traders and wretched fishermen and their +families, whose daily occupation of spreading out the nets to dry are so +many consecutive proofs of the fulfilment of the words of the prophet. +But so many modern travellers have described these parts, that it would +be useless for me to dwell upon the subject in this work: so we quitted +Sur, the modern Tyre; and a night’s pleasant sail in a small shaktoor +brought us to Acre. St. Jean d’Acre was at this period still suffering +much from the explosion of the powder magazine, which so much assisted +Admiral Napier in his siege; the houses were all tottering ruins, the +mosques minus their minarets, and the stench from the accumulated mass of +decomposed matter, the carcases of camels, sheep and oxen, and in some +places the sun-bleached bones of unhappy beings, in the twinkling of an +eye as it were hurried into eternity; these were a loathsome and +melancholy spectacle. + +I may here state, that I was present at the bombardment of Acre, and from +a favourable situation witnessed the terrific result of the “Geyser” +bombshells, which were thrown with such unerring certainty, that, knowing +the position of the powder-magazine, they fired upon it with so nice an +aim, that each succeeding shell struck upon the last in such a manner +that the first thrown was thus forced through the wall, and occasioned +the explosion; but I may further state what is yet a hidden mystery to +the British public, and which in a great measure accounts for the +facility with which this almost impregnable fortress was captured, and +that is, that the Imams and the Cadi of Acre secretly warned the soldiery +not to resist the arms of the British force there assembled, _because_ +they were fighting for the Sultan, whom it was their duty, as Mahomedans, +to obey; and, moreover, that in the sight of God and the prophet, there +was no other lawful Moslem king; none to be acknowledged, save the Sultan +of the Sublime Porte, Abdul Medjid; and that if they acted against his +interests, then the Prophet would utterly forsake them, and such as fell +in battle might fully make up their minds to be hurled into eternal +perdition, and that such as fought in his favour would assuredly go to +heaven. Such an exhortation and threat, at such a peculiar time, was +sure to have the desired effect. {119} + +Not only did the soldiers fight without spirit, but many of the artillery +actually spiked their guns. Of this latter fact I myself had ocular +demonstration when the engagement was over, and the allied forces landed +at Acre. After this fact, it becomes not the English admiral to boast +too much and compare his success with the failure of Napoleon. + +From Acre, still journeying southward, we passed the famous brook Kedron, +so often alluded to in Holy Writ, and passing through the miserable +village of Kaipha, ascended Mount Carmel, and sojourned a couple of days +in the hospitable convent of the Carmelite monks. Leaving Carmel, we +passed through Cæsarea, now an utter desolation, and visited Jaffa and +Gaza, and from the latter place, striking inland, took in succession +Hebron, Jerusalem, Bethlehem, the Dead Sea and the Jordan, besides +visiting all the other towns of any note or importance, all of which have +been often described by European travellers, so that the best thing I can +do is to avoid repetition, and content myself with observing, that the +reality far exceeded my expectations as regards the beauty of the scenery +and the wild picturesque position of almost every town of note in +Palestine. At the same time I deem it most essential to warn the English +travellers to be very careful in the choice of a guide-book, as many, +even up to a very late date, have been published with apparently no other +aim than to puff up the author’s vanity, containing mostly a tissue of +unaccountable misrepresentations from first to last. If the traveller, +in a spirit of knight-errantry, goes forth to visit the holy shores of +Palestine and Syria, hoping there to bask under the bright light of large +sunny-loving eyes—if he thinks to lead the Arab maid captive by the +heart—to win over the smiles of the Grecian, or scampering over desolate +mountains—to fall in with untutored Syrian maids, who sally forth and +carry him from his horse, fatigued and fever-smitten, to be watched over +and cared for by female philanthropists,—if, I say, the traveller quits +England with any such notions, he will return to these shores grievously +disappointed. + +Although myself a native of the country, dressed in the costume, and +speaking the language, still, with all these advantages, the maidens +always fled at our approach, not even if they mastered their coyness, +would they ever exchange a syllable with us strangers. Possibly, my +friend and myself were not possessed of that charm which a recent gallant +author, according to his own account, seems to have carried about with +him wherever he went; for he says, that in many parts fathers of families +rushed out and endeavoured to force him into a marriage with their +daughters, or else the maidens themselves, in _villages he had never +before visited_, came forth, having heard of his notoriety (this in parts +where there is no post, and where news travels at the rate of a mile a +week), to meet him with timbrel and dance, and other welcomings. The +only note that ever welcomed us to such villages, was the angry tongue of +a scolding harridan, or else the hooting of the owls, or the cry of the +jackal. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. +FIRST VISIT TO ENGLAND. + + +It sometimes happened that the naval officers belonging to the +ship-of-war stationed at Beyrout, took up their temporary residence with +some friend on shore, being always welcome guests at the houses of the +inhabitants. It was in this way that I first came to cultivate an +acquaintance with the captain of Her Majesty’s steamer, “Hecate,” so that +we were much thrown together. On one occasion, whilst he was a guest at +our house, he proposed that I should accompany him on a pleasure cruise +as far as Malta; a proposition I gladly acceded to, more particularly as +the Emir Beschir, with his family and a relation of my own, were at that +time residing on the island. I had long had a desire to see Malta, for +many had described it to me as a species of little world, where one might +sit down in a _café_ and study the characters of every European nation. + +The alarm and grief of my relations on learning my determination was only +to be equalled by the envious jeerings of my companions, who, whilst they +pretended to pity my infatuation, would, I feel persuaded, have parted +with every para in their possession for a portion of my good luck. + +The steamer was to sail at the end of the week; and I was so busy making +preparations, packing and taking leave, that I really had not a moment’s +leisure for calm meditation,—and I am very glad I had not, for the +chances are, that this, in conjunction with some of the melancholy +forebodings of my friends, would have unnerved me for the trip. Seeing, +however, that I was determined on starting, my neighbours changed their +annoying prognostications into good acts, which acts consisted in +inundating me with as many presents of sweetmeats, biscuits, etc., as +would have kept me during a twelvemonths’ passage round the world. I +selected some of the best of them for the officers’ mess, and at last the +word ready being given, got my luggage together and embarked; the +dispatches being received on board, and the “Hecate” soon after getting +up her steam, we proceeded on our voyage to Malta accompanied by the +prayers and blessings of a multitude of friends and relations assembled +at Ras-Beyrout to witness our departure. + +The day after we had sailed, I awoke at early dawn and crept up upon deck +as best I could. The motion of the vessel was so strange and violent, +that I reeled and staggered like a tipsy man, and felt confused, +miserable, weak and sick. The horrible sensations I experienced on first +awaking that morning cannot be easily erased from my mind. I was awoke +by a singular and deafening noise, which seemed to proceed from directly +overhead, which, as I afterwards discovered, was occasioned by the daily +process of holy-stoning the decks. I managed to reach the main-deck just +in time to be handed to the larboard gangway by the officer of the watch, +who there left me alone in my misery with my head hanging over the +bulwarks—a wretched victim to sea-sickness. + +Bitterly, during that moment, did I lament having ever quitted Beyrout. +My sufferings were so intense that I thought I must have died during the +day. This was the first time I had ever found myself so far out at sea. +There was no land in sight. The morning was gloomy and boisterous; and +altogether my spirits felt so depressed that I resigned myself to Allah, +and wrapping the loose folds of my large Cyprus cloak carefully around +me, I sat down cross-legged in a corner behind the man at the helm, and +vainly endeavoured to fall off to sleep. A nice cup of coffee which the +captain’s steward kindly brought, in a great measure revived me; this +relief, however, was only temporary, the dreadful odour of the victuals +cooking for breakfast, fried fish, ham and eggs, etc., these made me feel +so ill that I was compelled to retire to my berth, and there I lay more +dead than alive during the whole passage, utterly callous as to what +became of me, and as to whether the vessel was steadily pursuing her +voyage in safety or was in imminent danger of going to the bottom. + +Some Capuchin friars were on board, returning from Jerusalem to Malta, +accompanied by two young Syrian females who were going to Rome to be +educated in the principles of the Roman Catholic religion, and they not +only enjoyed the passage amazingly, being possessed of capital appetites, +but they very uncharitably, though not very unlike human nature, mocked +at my calamities and tried to heighten my alarm and sufferings by +frightening me with false reports as to the vessel’s danger, and as to my +own weak state of health. + +After intense sufferings and encountering much really rough weather, we +had at length the satisfaction of finding ourselves safe at anchor in the +harbour of Valetta. I doubt whether any of the passengers that +accompanied St. Paul on his disastrous voyage and shipwreck, suffered +greater fear or pain than I had undergone; certainly they could not have +rejoiced more than I did at its happy termination. Blessed be God, who +is not forgetful of His children, even in the vast unruly deep! + +On arriving at Malta, we had eleven days’ quarantine to perform; but the +tediousness of this imprisonment was much alleviated by the kindness and +attention of the good Mr. Schlicnz, whom I had known in Syria, and who +now daily visited me at the Lazaretto, supplying me with books to fill up +the tedium of dull hours. On the eleventh day, being admitted to +pratique, I accepted the hospitable invitation of that gentleman to take +up my quarters at his house. I was, through his politeness, introduced +into the society of several of the leading families at Malta. On leaving +Beyrout, I had been furnished with letters of introduction to Sir +Frederick Bouverie, the then governor. His excellency received me with +the utmost urbanity and kindness, and, indeed, I shall ever have cause +gratefully to remember Sir Frederick’s polite attention, as it was mainly +through his instrumentality that I first visited the shores of Great +Britain. + +One of my first visits was, of course, to the Emir Beschir of Lebanon, +who, with his family, were then residing there as political exiles. I +had several long conversations with this once-powerful prince; and the +Emir suggested that his wife and son should accompany me to London, there +to exert their influence in endeavouring to prevail upon Her Majesty the +Queen to interpose her influence on their behalf. They communicated with +the British Government, both at home and in the island on this subject; +but no encouragement was held out by the authorities there or in England +for the furtherance of this scheme; and the subject, after a long +correspondence, was, therefore, reluctantly dropped. The Emir, being +hurt and displeased at this apparent neglect, sent his son to +Constantinople, who, being well received by the Ottoman Government, +wrote, at its suggestion, to invite his father to the Porte, an +invitation he readily accepted; upon which the governor of Malta placed +at his disposal a British war-steamer, and the Emir and his family +immediately quitted the island. + +I may here be permitted to deviate a little from my journal to give a +brief description of these Emirs, their origin and end. The family of +the Emirs were originally Moslems, natives of Shaahbah, a village on the +southern plain of Lebanon; and they are said to be descended in a direct +line from the renowned Moslem Prophet, and to have ruled over the Lebanon +for many years. The founder of the family, Yusuf al Husn, or the +handsome or beautiful Yusuf, so called from his great personal +attractions, was, on account of his bravery and influence, chosen by the +mountaineers of Lebanon to be their prince. + +Before consenting to the choice, however, he himself stipulated that the +power of life and death should be invested in his hands; and this having +been agreed to, he was duly elected Emir, came to the mountains, and +settled amongst his people, over whom he was to rule with a despotic +sway. During the time this prince held the supreme power, he preserved +the greatest order amongst the unruly tribes over whom he was placed, and +travellers passed and repassed with the greatest safety. Some time after +he had settled amongst the Druses and Maronites, after mature +consideration, he came to the resolution of embracing the Christian +religion, although such a measure was sure to prove disadvantageous to +him, by estranging the Druses and occasioning the Sultan’s displeasure; +he, however, retained undisputed the right of his position and authority, +and on dying, was succeeded by his son, the Emir whom I then met at +Malta. + +The cause of this second Emir’s disgrace was his having fallen into +disrepute with the government, by not immediately joining the Seraskier +Pasha on the occasion of the expulsion of the Egyptians from Syria. But +the cause of the poor man’s conduct was one that few can help +sympathising with. His son was at that time with Ibrahim Pasha; and had +it been known to that warrior that the Emir had joined the forces against +him, there is little doubt but that he would have caused the son to be +cut to pieces. Under these circumstances, the Emir was constrained to +remain on the mountains till the expulsion of the Egyptian troops had +been effected. He then went down to Sidon and surrendered himself to the +English, and was by them conveyed in a frigate to Beyrout. + +The Seraskier having given out that he was in possession of a Firman, by +the authority of which, could he lay hold of the Emir, he would +undoubtedly behead him, and send his head as a trophy to Constantinople, +the English authorities strongly recommended his departure for Malta, +where once on English ground his safety would be ensured. The Emir +accordingly came to that island, and was very well received by the +governor, who placed a palace at his disposal. I must acknowledge that +all that the Emir said about Sir Frederic Bouverie redounded much to his +Excellency’s credit. He spoke of him as a humane and kind governor, and +one who knew how to respect fallen dignity. + +I have already said the Emir ultimately left Malta for Constantinople. +On arriving at Stamboul he was exiled to Zafron Boli, a place notorious +for the animosity of its inhabitants towards Christians, and where his +eldest son, pining on account of the miseries endured by his father, soon +succumbed to misfortune. Here he remained some time subjected to much +mental suffering. Often in after years he told me, in familiar +conversation, that what afforded him some small consolation was the +similitude between his own fate and that of the late King Louis Philippe. + +After some time, through the kind intervention of one of the European +ambassadors, the Emir was brought to Broussa, and ultimately removed to +Constantinople, where, within a short time, himself and his remaining son +sunk into the grave. Every respect was paid to his memory; by the +Sultan’s order a public funeral was awarded him, and masses said for the +repose of his soul at the government expense, a striking proof of the +liberality and toleration of the government of the Sublime Porte. + +During my stay at Malta, the late Dr. Alexander, the first Protestant +bishop in Jerusalem, arrived at that island, accompanied by his family +and suite, _en route_ for his new see. I shall never forget my amazement +on being introduced to that prelate, to find that he wore no beard. A +bishop without a beard was a perfect marvel to me, and a thing unheard of +in the East; in short, perfectly fabulous. This excellent man +condescended to ask my opinion on many points connected with the East, +and I made so bold as to tell him, that if he wished to pass for a bishop +amongst the natives of Syria, he must let his beard grow without further +delay. + +Malta was a great novelty to me—the beauty of the scenery—the bustle of +the place—the frigates, steamers, schooners, boats, carriages, soldiers, +bands of music, friars, nuns, and a vast concourse of people in every +imaginable costume, and speaking every known tongue. All these +perplexed, astonished, and delighted me at one and the same time; and a +drive in the environs of Valetta was a perfect treat. At Malta I first +got an idea of European manners; and I must own, my astonishment was very +great to see the females, with faces perfectly uncovered, chatting in the +greatest familiarity with the opposite sex, and it was to me quite +incomprehensible. But my greatest astonishment was excited at a ball to +which I was invited. The waltzing, polkaing, etc., appeared to me a most +ridiculous and indecent exhibition; and it was a long time before this +feeling wore off. I have to this day been unable to find out how any +pleasure can be derived from a constant spinning round like the sails of +a mill. + +It was not without much regret that I quitted the island—a perfect scene +of enchantment—and the kind, hospitable acquaintances I had formed during +my brief stay. His excellency the governor had been good enough to exert +his influence in procuring me a passage on board of a war-steamer on the +point of leaving for England. Such an opportunity was not to be thrown +away, so hurrying down to the water-side, I embarked, on board H. M.’s +steam-frigate Gorgon, Captain W. H. Henderson, C.B., 28th February, 1842. +I had leisure to survey the busy scene around us before the vessel +finally started. Shore-boats were plying around, offering for sale +fruits, cigars, and canary birds. On board all was order and silence; +around, all confusion, shouting, and quarrelling, and whilst mentally +occupied in drawing this comparison, the anchor was weighed and we +steamed rapidly away from the pleasant shores of the island of Malta. + +After an agreeable voyage, marked by no particular incident, we duly +arrived at Portsmouth. On my arrival, I was made happy by meeting the +Rev. Mr. Marshall, chaplain of Nelson’s ship, the Victory, and whose +acquaintance I had the pleasure of forming when that gentleman was +travelling in Syria. Mr. Marshall and all the officers of the ship were +extremely kind to me, and shewed me over the old ship of the renowned +admiral. At this place I landed, and having got a permit, was kindly +shewn over the splendid dockyards. Here also I tasted some water twenty +years in cask. I afterwards went round in the same steamer to Woolwich, +and having shewn my letters of introduction to the captain, he kindly +undertook to advise me. He recommended me to proceed at once to the +house of the Honourable and Rev. Baptist Noel; and acting upon his +advice, I came to London, and thence proceeded to Hornsey, at that time +the residence of my reverend friend. + +Confused and amazed as I was with the noise and bustle around me in so +vast a place as London, I was sufficiently alive to my own interests to +have my eyes open, so that I should not be cheated. This led to a +ludicrous altercation between myself and a toll-collector at a turnpike. +The man insisted on his money being paid; I, on the other hand, as +obstinately refused, assuring him that, though a foreigner, I was well +acquainted with the tricks practised upon travellers; in short, I thought +the man was asking for what, in my own country, is termed a _bakhsheesh_, +which means nothing more or less than a present. Some gentlemen, +however, came up and explained how matters stood, and then I paid the +trifle and bade the driver proceed. + +Nothing could exceed the Christian brotherly reception I met with at the +excellent Mr. Noel’s house. He actually busied himself with helping to +carry in my baggage; and I was lost in admiration to observe how, in the +bosom of his own family, he would play and sport with his own children, +doing anything for their amusement and to make them happy. His early +rising and great taste for gardening quite astonished me. Pleasant +indeed were the days that I spent under his hospitable roof; and if any +in this world have a claim upon my esteem and gratitude, it surely must +be Mr. Noel and his amiable lady. + +Leaving my kind host’s house, which I did with unfeigned regret, I lived +some time in London with Mr. W. Brown, in order to make myself familiar +with the many sights so well worthy of visiting; and I then proceeded to +Wimbledon, in order that, under the care and tuition of the Rev. William +Edelman, the clergyman of the place, I might improve myself in English, +and be prepared for a college education. I was placed there by the +kindness of the Rev. W. Neven and the Hon. Capt. Maude, belonging to the +committee of the society raised to promote education in Syria, by Assaod +Y. Kayet’s exertions, and also noted for their civility to all my +countrymen that have ever visited England. In Mr. Edelman’s house, I +found a happy home, for I was considered and treated in every respect as +one of the family. Mrs. Edelman was a very accomplished lady; she kindly +undertook to teach me drawing, and she was well versed in Latin and +classics. Of the many kind friends I met with during my stay at +Wimbledon, I may particularise and thank the kind-hearted Mrs. Marryatt, +mother of the celebrated novelist, who, at the advanced age of eighty, +looks as blooming as though she were in the prime of life. The venerable +lady is a great botanist and very fond of gardening. Mrs. Russell and +her two daughters shewed me great civility, as did the gifted Mrs. +Hudson, who is unfortunately blind. I am also much indebted to the +attention and civility of Major Oliphant, one of the East India directors +and to Mr. Mallison, Mr. Jones, and Mr. Peach, and their kind families; +in short, without enumerating their names, I thank all my good friends at +Wimbledon, and in the neighbourhood. + +One day at church I was surprised and gratified at recognising in the +person of a very tall gentleman sitting in a pew some distance from me, +the late Captain Murray of the Rifles, an old friend who had been a +visitor at our house in Syria; he was as pleased as myself at the +recognition, and having introduced me to his mother and sisters, insisted +on my going home with him to lunch. Such acts of attention and kind +civility were of daily occurrence during my stay at Wimbledon; but I must +not forget to thank Miss C---, who was so good as to be at the trouble of +taking my portrait. + +I witnessed a cavalry review before His Royal Highness Prince Albert; the +dazzling splendour of the accoutrements surprised me very much. Here +also I was once nearly being made eye-witness to a detestable duel. The +circumstances of this adventure were as follows, viz.:—I was one day +walking with Mr. Walmsley, now of the Foreign-office, and Captain John +Nunn, a military officer from Ireland, when passing near +Wimbledon-common, we saw some people busily occupied in measuring the +ground. Imagining them to be engineers occupied in a survey, I was glad +of the opportunity likely to be afforded me of improving myself in this +science by closely watching their proceedings. With this intention I +asked my friends to approach nearer to them; judge then of my horror when +informed by them, that these preliminaries were evidently being arranged +for a duel about to take place between two gentlemen, who had probably +quarrelled about some trifle, or possibly _un affaire de cœur_, and who +were going to settle their difference in this disgraceful manner. One of +my friends ran and fetched a constable, who speedily terminated the +proceeding by virtue of his staff of office. + +I cannot say how detestable and absurd this crime appeared in my +eyes—such bloodshed to occur in civilised England appeared to me +marvellous—in a country professedly Christian. I really began to wish +myself back in Syria again; for if this was to be the result of +civilization and education, ignorance were bliss indeed. + +On my first arrival in England, and for many months afterwards, I was +greatly at a loss to comprehend the many idioms of the language; and the +result was that I was perpetually the victim of some ludicrous error in +either speaking or misunderstanding the English. Previous to my +departure from Syria, I had become acquainted with Captain Charles +Shadwell, in Her Majesty’s navy, the son of the late respected +vice-Chancellor, Sir Launcelot Shadwell. On our parting he had desired +me, should I ever visit England, to call upon his father, from whom I +could readily obtain his address. Soon after my arrival I bethought +myself of this invitation, and called at the court-house at Westminster. +On enquiring of an attendant if Sir Launcelot was within, the man replied +in the affirmative, but at the same time gave me to understand that Sir +Launcelot was _sitting_, and that therefore I could not hope to see him. + +This reply naturally very much amazed me, and I therefore persisted in my +request. + +“I tell you, Sir, that Sir Launcelot is _sitting_,” was again the answer +of the servant. + +This rather annoyed me. “Well, Sir,” rejoined I, “I know that Sir +Launcelot is _sitting_; I never supposed for an instant that he was lying +down or asleep at this hour of the day, and that is just the very reason +why I have called to see him.” + +I need not say that my reply as much astonished the official as I was +confounded at his obstinacy. After some little altercation, however, I +was made to understand that the term _sitting_, as used in this instance, +referred to Sir Launcelot’s official occupations, and not a little +abashed, I apologised for the error, at the same time explaining to the +man the motives of my visit. I begged him to take in my card, and in the +mean time walked into the court, not however, without a fresh difficulty +occurring, for the official requested me to take off my cap, for I then +wore what I have been accustomed to all my life, the _fez_ or _tarboush_. +On this request being repeated, I told the man that I would much sooner +take off my boots, as it was disrespectful in my country to go bareheaded +into the presence of one’s superiors. I suppose the man had never seen +such a curious customer as I seemed to him to be; he however implored me +not to remove my boots, and without further demur, allowed me to remain. + +I afterwards saw Sir Launcelot in the private office of the Chancellor. +He received me with stiff _hauteur_ and distant politeness, and on making +known my errand, regretted that he could not give me his son’s address, +but said that if I left my own, he would forward it to his son. This I +did, and rather hurt at the frigidity of his manner, speedily withdrew. + +A few days after this, I received a very kind letter from Sir Launcelot, +enclosing me one from his son, and in which Sir Launcelot, after +apologising for the apparent want of courtesy displayed in his reception, +which he justly attributed to the impostures often practised by persons +of foreign appearance on the credulity of English gentlemen, concluded by +hospitably inviting me to dinner, when I should have the happiness of +once again meeting my friend, his son. + +About the same time that I had come to England, there also arrived a +young Druse Sheikh from the mountains of Lebanon, who, attended by his +two servants, had left his home to be educated; and government had placed +him under the tuition of the Rev. Mr. ---. Some time afterwards, one of +the servants from some misunderstanding, attempted to stab that +gentleman, but was fortunately prevented. A great disturbance, however, +occurred, and the police were obliged to interfere and disarm them. In +1843 the Prince went raving mad, and was sent back to his friends. One +day, paying a visit to Aali Effendi, at that time Turkish ambassador +here, he suddenly flung a beautiful and expensive watch which he wore +into the fire, exclaiming that he would no longer carry the devil in his +pocket. I afterwards met him on one occasion on the Lebanon, and he told +me that he was very ill, as the English had put a charm into his stomach; +and he begged of me to give him an English lancet to perform an operation +and cut the charm. Luckily there are instances directly opposite to this +case, or else one might be discouraged in carrying out the good cause of +Syrian education. The fate of Assaad Shidiac (whose brother is +considered one of the first Arabic and English scholars, and has been for +many years employed by the Church Missionary Society in translating the +Bible from English into Arabic), who fell a martyr to the cause, shews +triumphantly that few people can be more sincere converts than the Syrian +Christians. + +This admirable young man was originally a Maronite, but having been +educated by the missionaries, was led to see the errors of the Romish +faith. While travelling amongst his own native villagers he was seized, +and the people tried to force him to renounce the faith he had adopted. +On his refusal, they imprisoned and otherwise ill-treated him. A +merchant residing at Beyrout very soon flew to his rescue; but alas! he +arrived too late, the noble soul of Shidiac had fled for ever, and the +immediate cause of his death remains to this day enveloped in mystery. + +I remember well that on first arriving in England I had a habit of +sitting cross-legged on a chair or an ottoman. This position used to +amuse my English friends very much, and on one occasion when I detected a +number of young ladies laughing among themselves and pointing at me, I +anxiously enquired the cause of their merriment, and one of them +volunteered to tell me that it was only tailors in this country that +resorted to the use of such a droll position. I assured them that in +Syria the nobles of the land sat cross-legged; but thanking them for this +gentle correction, I ever after endeavoured to sit as much like an +Englishman as I could, a task which I at first found both difficult and +disagreeable. + +At this time I received intelligence of the death of a very dear friend +and relative, and this melancholy news urged on me the necessity of +returning to Syria. I accordingly began to make preparations, and was so +fortunate as to meet Sir George Otway, who was going up the Mediterranean +in command of the “Virago” steamer, and who very kindly gave me a passage +as far as Malta. + +On board the “Virago” I had the happiness of meeting those amiable +noblemen, the Marquis of Worcester and Lord Clarence Paget. We touched +at Gibraltar, and were there joined by the bishop of that diocese who was +about to pay a visit to Malta. We had a remarkably pleasant voyage out, +and on arriving once more at Malta, I immediately occupied myself in +preparations for landing, not displeased at the idea of once again +visiting that pleasant little island for a few days. In the midst of all +this, my attention was suddenly attracted to the constant succession of +flags that were being rapidly hauled up and down and changed. I was of +course ignorant as to the motives of these signals. In a short time, +however, Sir George Otway enlightened me on this subject by informing me +with a smile on his countenance, that the “Medea” steam frigate, Captain +Warden, with the Lycian expedition, was about to leave for Rhodes, and +that he was glad to say he had been successful in procuring me a passage +by her. Accordingly, taking a hearty leave of the excellent commander +and gallant officers of the “Virago,” and bidding adieu to my noble +fellow-passengers, I was quickly transferred from one vessel to the +other. + +On the deck of the new steamer I was delighted to recognise the features +of my old acquaintance Mr., now Sir Charles Fellowes, who was then +proceeding to conduct the expedition to Lycia in Asia Minor. In a few +days the steamer landed me at Rhodes. I joined the Austrian boat at that +island, and was soon, to my great joy and satisfaction, safely landed at +Beyrout. + +On joining my old acquaintances, I was much amused at the ridiculous +reports in circulation as to the results of my visit to England. Some +imagined I had been made a bishop, whilst others stated that I had given +myself out as the Prince of Syria, and had persuaded the English +government to grant me a fleet to conquer the country. I was frequently +asked by the chiefs when I expected the ships to arrive. All concluded +that I was thoroughly versed in medicine, as the people of Syria imagine +all Europeans, and those who visit that country, to be well acquainted +with this science. + +After I had been a short time at Beyrout, I went on a visit to the +mountains, when a desperate war broke out between the Maronites and the +Druses, through the machinations of the priests. The Druses immediately +made a desperate attack upon the village of Deyr Al Kamar, where at that +time the Emir Kasim was residing at the palace. The village was nearly +destroyed, and much blood was shed. The palace was sufficiently strong +to resist their attack. The government was so amazed at this outbreak, +that the Emir was ordered to go to Beyrout, whence he was sent to +Constantinople. I myself remained a short time at Beyrout to arrange +some private affairs. This being settled to the satisfaction of all +concerned, I took my passage to Constantinople on board of one of the +Austrian steamers, and after a prosperous voyage was duly landed at +Stamboul. This was the first time I had ever visited the great Moslem +capital; but I came here after having seen and been resident at London, +and it consequently had few charms for me, though I must admit, that as +seen from the sea in approaching it, I thought Stamboul one of the most +lovely spots I had ever set eyes on. + +Here I soon joined my old acquaintance the Emir Kasim. The story of this +prince is as follows:— + +His childhood was passed on Lebanon, and ultimately he became possessed +of large landed estates, to the cultivation of which he devoted much of +his time. Living in a fine mansion in the village of Hadded, about four +hours’ journey from Beyrout, the greater portion of which belonged to +him, his house was at all times open to the traveller, whether poor or +rich; and, indeed, no person ever passed his door without experiencing +the hospitality of the owner. The chief objects of the Emir’s attention +were silkworms, of which he kept immense numbers. He was also celebrated +for his fine breed of Arabian horses. Devoted to the pleasures of +hunting wild boars in the neighbourhood of Damascus, and shooting, his +great delight was a _battue_ of partridges; for the perfect enjoyment of +which an excellent system had been established. The unfortunate birds +(of the red-legged species), having been gradually accustomed to be fed +in a small open spot, whenever the Emir felt inclined for the sport, he +ensconced himself snugly behind a bush especially prepared for the +purpose, and blazed away at his victims at his ease. It is quite certain +that the Emir had not had the advantage of a sporting education in +England, but it cannot be denied that the natural cunning of the man had +led him to imitate closely a European practice. In other respects he was +an ignorant and unlettered man; his only accomplishments being a little +reading and writing. + +When the Emir Beschir had been called upon to join the allies with his +forces against Ibrahim Pacha, but was unable to comply with the call, +Kasim collected all his followers and went down to the sea-coast to join +Sir Charles Napier, who, in return, promised to make him Prince of +Lebanon, and to add Beyrout and Sidon to his principality; his losses in +money and property were immense for Syria, but he listened to the +promises of the English, which were to the effect that he should be amply +recompensed. These promises were, however, never fulfilled. The title +of Prince of Lebanon was certainly granted him; but the disturbance +before narrated broke out, and his removal was the result. It was +imagined at the time that the political influence of another power +outweighed that of England, and caused this measure to be brought about. +On his arrival at Constantinople from Beyrout, the Prince was brought +before the divan and called upon to answer certain charges brought +against him. This he succeeded in doing to the satisfaction of the +authorities, and he was accordingly acquitted; but it was thought that +his presence amongst the mountaineers might again cause a revolt, and the +government, therefore, ordered him to remain in Turkey. + +While in Stamboul I had laid his case before Lord Cowley, the British +ambassador, who, upon ascertaining the real state of affairs, promised to +exert himself in his favour, which promise his lordship fulfilled to the +utmost. The prince, not understanding the integrity of his lordship’s +character, and being a total stranger to the system of European +diplomacy, wished to force on his lordship the acceptance of some very +valuable Arab horses, which present, of course, was instantly refused. +This very much astonished the Emir, who had all his life been accustomed +to Oriental tactics in policy, in which such an argument was the only one +ever likely to be productive of beneficial results. This, in fact has +been the system practised from the earliest ages up to the present date. +We read in the Bible of the wife of Nabal riding forth from Carmel, +accompanied with donkey-loads of presents, to meet David, in order that +by soft words and rich presents she might propitiate the king in her +favour, and turn his wrath away from her husband. The meeting between +Jacob and Esau gives another instance of this method of conciliating +favour being resorted to. + +The Emir remained for some time under surveillance at Constantinople, +when, through the strenuous exertions of Lord Cowley, a small pension was +obtained from the Government. Some time after this, when I was in +England, I received some letters and enclosures from him. + +After perusing the whole of the letters, I came to the resolution of +delivering one intended for Sir Charles Napier personally. Sir Charles +received me with the rough cordiality of an English sailor, and after a +long conversation about the affairs of Syria, told me, that now he much +regretted the part he had taken in Eastern politics, and promised to +exert himself in favour of the Emir Beshir Kasim, and of Syria, at the +same time exhibiting great interest for the welfare of its inhabitants. +He applied to Lord Palmerston in behalf of the prince, and through his +influence, after a long correspondence, instructions were forwarded to +Sir Stratford Canning to exert himself in his favour; but, during this +interval, a severe illness had deprived my unfortunate friend of his +sight. At length, through the kindness of Aali Pasha, the then minister +for foreign affairs, permission was obtained for his return to Syria, +upon the Emir undertaking to live there strictly as a private individual, +and to interfere in no way with the politics of the country. He is now +living on Mount Lebanon, where, at the advanced age of about eighty +years, he exerts himself as far as age will permit, in promoting the +happiness of those around him. But to return to my narrative. + +During my stay at Constantinople, I was fortunate enough to make the +acquaintance of many warm friends, and among others, of the late lamented +Lord William Clinton, who, at that time, was fulfilling the duties of +secretary to the embassy, also of Mr. Wood and Mr. Allison, a gentleman +distinguished by his profound acquaintance with the languages, customs, +and manners of the East, also attached to the embassy, Mr. Cumberbatch, +the consul-general, and his brother. I further had the pleasure of +making the acquaintance of the late Doctor Bennet, chaplain to the +embassy, a truly good man, and one who did credit to his creed. + +Dr. Bennett had a large family of sons and daughters, all scattered about +over the world. One is, I believe, now high in the East India Company’s +service in Bengal, another attached to the consulate at Varna; and there +is one, I believe, in England, who has embraced his father’s profession +and entered the ministry. Mrs. Bennett was a most exemplary wife. From +her I received my first impression in favour of English wives; her +never-tiring and affectionate attendance upon the good doctor when seized +with his last fatal illness, seemed to me, who was then unaccustomed to +the devotion displayed by English women in time of sickness, truly +angelic, and quite disheartened me when drawing a comparison between them +and my own countrywomen, ignorant of reading and writing, though +doubtless, if educated, susceptible of all the more refined feelings of +civilisation. + +Though on the point of falling desperately in love with one of the fair +daughters of the land, this consideration effectually checked my +enthusiasm. A lady-friend had given me an eloquent description of a +young Greek damsel, to which I was more than half inclined to listen, +when the example I have already quoted made me suddenly remember that +such things were not to be hoped for save in an English wife. + +During my stay at Stamboul, I renewed my acquaintance with the Rev. Mr. +Goodall, my former kind instructor, who had left Syria and come to reside +in that city, where, in conjunction with the other American missionaries, +he carried on his arduous duties with unremitting zeal. Though not long +resident at Constantinople, I was witness, on more than one occasion, to +the havoc committed by the fires that are incessantly occurring. From +one of these I myself was a severe sufferer. Once, while spending the +evening with Lord W. Clinton, a fire broke out in the house next to his. +As mine was only a few doors further off, I hastened away to rescue my +property, and with the assistance of the _hammahls_, or porters, +succeeded in removing it into the centre of a neighbouring field, where +it would be out of harm’s way. Having done this, I returned immediately +to Lord William’s to give him what assistance I could in helping to +remove his property to a place of safety. The fire committed fearful +ravages. A whole quarter of Pera was destroyed. When it was at last +extinguished, I hastened to look after my own property, but such had been +the devastation committed by the flames, that the whole face of the +district was changed; and I found it utterly impossible to recognise any +spot or mark which might afford the slightest clue as to the whereabouts +of my late quarters, and thus lead to the recognition of the field. +After a long and unsuccessful search, I was obliged to give the matter +up; and I was thus deprived of the whole of my personal effects. This +was in the winter of 1846. + +After some months’ residence at Constantinople, through Lord Cowley’s +kind exertions with the Turkish government, I was sent to England, and +was furnished with letters to Prince Callimaki, then ambassador at the +court of St. James’s. Lord Cowley gave me a passage to Malta in an +English war-steamer. We touched at Corfu, where I was so fortunate as to +make the acquaintance of Lord Seaton, who at that time held the office of +Lord High Commissioner of the Ionian Isles. Both himself and family +treated me with the greatest hospitality. During my short stay, I had +time to discover that his lordship’s popularity amongst the residents was +very great. + +From Corfu we came to Malta, where I had the pleasure of meeting several +dear friends again. I stayed here for a fortnight; and on one occasion, +I regret to say, I witnessed conduct most unusual in British officers, +who, with few exceptions, I have found ever mindful of their position as +gentlemen. One evening, at the theatre, a number of the junior officers +were present, and, in spite of the quiet remonstrances of the audience, +persisted in placing their feet on the ledge in the front of the boxes. +The Maltese at length became so exasperated that a number of them left +the house and awaited the departure of the officers, when they assailed +them in a most furious manner, and would certainly have inflicted serious +injury upon them had not a guard arrived opportunely to separate the +combatants. At the height of the riot my curiosity was much excited on +observing a peasant, who had struck down an officer, and seemed +apparently about to follow up his attack, suddenly desist and render the +utmost assistance to his late foe. Being acquainted with the gentleman, +I next day enquired what could have caused this change, and was much +surprised to find that this strange occurrence arose from the peasant +having, by a secret sign, discovered that the officer was a brother +mason. I could not but admire a system productive of such benevolent +results, and a few evenings after, happening to be dining with my friend, +Captain Ford of the artillery, and understanding from him that he was +engaged to attend a lodge on the island, I begged he would procure me +admission. This he kindly consented to do, and I was, therefore, duly +initiated. The kind feeling and brotherly love I have met with among +masons, has rendered this event one of the happiest of my life. + +From Malta I came to England through France, _viá_ Marseilles. At +Marseilles I put up at the Hotel de l’Europe. Being at that time +ignorant of the language, I found myself awkwardly situated, for shortly +after my arrival, having washed my hands, I could find no place wherein +to empty the basin, and being amongst strangers, I felt great diffidence +in making known my wants. In this dilemma, I resorted to the expedient +of throwing the water out of the window. I did so, and was chuckling at +the success of my plan, when my attention was attracted by a great noise +in the street, and, to my surprise, I heard foot-steps and angry voices +approaching my bed-room door. + +On their entering, I found that the water had unfortunately alighted on a +French officer, who at that moment chanced to be passing in full-dress +uniform. His indignation was such that I expected to be annihilated on +the spot. I presume, however, that the people of the hotel would not +permit him to wreak his vengeance on me, and so he contented himself by +giving me into the charge of the police, who desired me the next day to +appear before the magistrate (the complainant appearing in person). I of +course made ample apologies through an interpreter, and the matter was at +length satisfactorily settled. This officer and myself afterwards became +very good friends; he explained to me that he had imagined I was an Arab +from Africa, who had thus sought to revenge myself for injuries I might +have received from their hands whilst in Algeria, and that this had +determined him to have me punished, adding that had he known that I was a +Syrian, and above all from Mount Lebanon, he would certainly have been +disposed to be more lenient. This _contretemps_ shewed me the necessity +of being acquainted with the customs and languages of the places through +which I might be necessitated to travel. + +I left Marseilles by the diligence, and was very surprised at the slow +method of travelling adopted by the French. As compared to the railroad +transit in England, they seemed a century behind. The idea seems quite +absurd that a country like France, which aspires to rivalry in arts and +sciences no less than in accomplishments, should compel unhappy +travellers to lose three days in performing a distance that could almost +be done in a few hours in England. + +I made a short stay at Paris, where I met with great kindness from the +Ottoman ambassador, Suliman Pasha, and was fortunate enough while there +also to make the acquaintance of that celebrated statesman and profound +scholar, M. Guizot. M. Thiers, also honoured with his friendship. With +this last eminent statesman I had a long and interesting conversation +respecting the Syrian campaign of 1840–41, and he evinced a most lively +interest in the fortunes of the grand Emir Beschir. Under the pretence +of collecting money for the sufferers of Mount Lebanon, an association +was formed at that time in Paris, with the secret intention of making a +tool of one of the Emir’s family, and through his instrumentality +exciting a rebellion amongst the inhabitants, and then taking advantage +of their civil discord. + +Being a native of those parts, the ambassador thought that I could +without exciting suspicion gain some information as to the real projects +of these people. I obtained possession of a pamphlet, in which their +benevolent views were set forth as a blind to their proceedings, from the +treasurer of the society, with whom I was formerly acquainted, but who, +ignorant of my intentions, declared its real purposes. Their object was +to excite commotions, and through the medium of these civil discords to +increase the influence of France in those parts. + +On my arrival in England in October, 1847, I presented my letters of +introduction to Prince Callimaki, who introduced me to the members of his +suite. After some deliberation, the Prince and my English friends +thought it would be better for my interests to study a profession than to +remain simply attached to the Embassy: but they left it to me to choose +what that profession should be. After mature reflection, I fixed upon +surgery, which I thought would more than any other render my services of +use to my fellow-countrymen. On making my choice known, the Prince and +Mr. Zohrab kindly undertook to consult with Mr. Benjamin Phillips, the +eminent surgeon of Wimpole-street, now retired from practice, and living +at Hendon, to whom I was furnished with a letter of introduction. The +parental conduct of this gentleman towards me I shall ever call to mind +with the deepest veneration, and in the phraseology of my countrymen, +_the ashes of my bones will not cease to retain this feeling_. It was at +last determined that I should reside with Mr. Drewitt, of Curzon-street, +May-fair; this gentleman and his kind-hearted lady exerted themselves to +the utmost to procure my comfort and further my views, and whilst under +their hospitable roof, I enjoyed every domestic happiness. + +In order still further to advance my interests, the Prince Callimaki, Mr. +Phillips, and other friends, most kindly addressed letters to the +Directors of King’s College, introducing me to them, and stating my +earnest wish to attend the valuable lectures of this institution. In +reply, the much respected principal, Dr. Jelf, immediately sent me an +admission to the College, and he himself received me in the most generous +and noble manner, and exhorted me to use my endeavours to persuade my +countrymen to follow my example. + +I now regularly attended these lectures, and from both professors and +students received every civility and attention. At first my repugnance +to the dissecting-room was so great and overpowering, that I went to the +prince and earnestly besought of him to let me relinquish the profession, +telling him that I thought it quite an act of barbarity thus to mutilate +the dead. The prince, however, after many arguments, induced me to +persevere a little longer. I took his advice, and soon found that this +feeling of repugnance gradually subsided; nay, more than this, I began to +take peculiar pleasure in the study, when the whole magnitude of its +wonderful philosophy burst upon my understanding. One day a trifling +accident occurred to me—trifling in appearance, but which very nearly +terminated fatally. The event, however, was productive of one good +result, it shewed me the sincere and unaffected esteem of English +friends, and made me happy in the knowledge that I was fortunate enough +to have hundreds, even in England, deeply interested in my welfare. + +Whilst assisting in the dissecting-room in November 1849, I accidentally +pricked my finger with a poisoned knife, but being engaged on that day to +dine with the excellent and good Lord Cranworth, the present Lord +Chancellor, the hospitalities of that nobleman, and the cheering music of +his lady and her sister, Lady Eardley, entirely drove the circumstance +from my memory. This was the ninth of November, and I was engaged to +join the festivities at the Guildhall in the evening. At midnight, +whilst in the midst of my enjoyment, I was seized with sudden illness, +and my good friend, the late Sir Felix Booth, immediately sent me home in +his carriage. After a night of extreme wretchedness and misery, I next +morning summoned around me a host of my medical acquaintances; but these, +alas! were but Job’s comforters, for they one and all assured me, that +should erysipelas supervene, death would be the certain result. I need +not here relate the depressing effect this news had upon my already +exhausted spirits. + +My English friends may smile at what I am now about to relate, but the +impression made at that period on my mind was so great, that I cannot +refrain from mentioning the matter. + +While in my own country (according to the universal custom of the +inhabitants), I had sought to dive into the secrets of futurity through +the aid of a _munajjim_, or magician, who predicted that on a Friday I +should be seized with a dangerous illness or be shot, either purposely or +by accident, and that in all probability either misfortune would prove +fatal to me. In my almost helpless state, this circumstance coming +vividly to my mind, was all-sufficient to have brought about the foretold +result, for it certainly for some time hindered my recovery. I sent for +a Syrian friend and made my will, and he committed to paper all my good +wishes towards my kindred at home. + +During this sad time, my first English friend, the Hon. and Rev. Baptist +Noel, was most indefatigable in his attentions; and this good man +comforted me with prayers, and taught me to lean on the word of God for +comfort and succour, not only in this affliction, but in every +tribulation. I likewise received a visit from Cardinal Wiseman, who, +meeting my friend and medical adviser, Mr. Phillips, at the door, asked +permission to see me. This was reluctantly granted, and only upon +condition that the cardinal should attend to my spiritual concerns, and +leave my corporeal cure to Mr. P. My illness continued for three months; +but at last, through the untiring labours of Mr. Phillips, and under the +Divine blessing, I was once more restored to health. + +My apartments were every day besieged by numbers of kind friends, who +called to ascertain the state of my health, and to leave me fruits, and +such tokens of esteem as they thought most acceptable to an invalid. + +I well remember that, at a period during the most dangerous part of my +illness, I called to mind, that in my country a superstition was +prevalent, that the broth made from a young black cock, whose head must +be severed by a knife with one stroke from the body, was very efficacious +in curing such cases as mine; and my strict injunctions and earnest +entreaties to those around me to prepare me this broth, must have made +them imagine me imbecile. + +Before quitting this subject, I must here record my grateful thanks to +Mr. Zohrab, the Turkish consul-general, and his lady, whose friendship +and kindness to me upon all occasions I can never sufficiently +acknowledge. On my partial recovery, they insisted on my taking up my +abode at their mansion at Hampstead; and owing to their kind attentions +and _recherché_ fare, I soon recovered my strength. + +The 12th of April, 1850, was one of the proudest days of my life. On +that day I had the great honour of being admitted a member of the Royal +College of Surgeons of London; and whilst yet blushing beneath my new +honours, more came pouring upon my head. I went to King’s College on the +27th of the same month to witness the distribution of prizes, and there I +had the pleasure of meeting the amiable and learned professor, Doctor +Jelf; from him I was surprised and delighted to learn, that, listening to +his kind recommendation of my attention to studies and lectures, His +Grace the Archbishop of Canterbury had been graciously pleased to confer +upon me the honour of being an associate of the college. + +Having thus been admitted among the surgical staff of England, I am +naturally jealous, as well for the honour and privileges, as for the +efficiency of the profession, in this great country; and I think it will +not be out of place if I briefly record the opinions entertained by a +foreigner on the anomalous and unsatisfactory position which it at +present occupies. + +Although, then, the medical profession, as a body, is held by the people +in very considerable estimation and respect, and although the individual +practitioners are received in the families, whose confidence or +friendship they have obtained, with the utmost cordiality and unreserve, +giving place only to ministers of religion, nevertheless, they have good +reason to complain of the manner in which they are treated by the +Government, and the little care that is taken of their interests. Being +all of them men of somewhat extended education,—with very few exceptions, +gentlemen by birth—and very many of them deeply versed in various +scientific subjects, it would not be too much to expect that the +Government would at least throw around them the shield of its protection, +even if it did not stimulate them to increased activity and exertion, by +holding out honours and rewards, as prizes for the most distinguished. +Yet how stands the fact? The law permits any man to call himself +surgeon, and to perform the most capital operations; moreover, the +Executive will not take the trouble to publish a list of the authorised +practitioners in the three kingdoms. No authentic document exists, +enrolling in one compendium the names of all who are entitled to practise +in their respective departments, and, consequently, the public are kept +in ignorance of those whom in medical matters they may with safety trust. +Nor is this all. It absolutely encourages unlicensed and ignorant +pretenders, by permitting the sale of quack medicines for a paltry duty +on each parcel vended. It derives, indeed, no small revenue from this +disgraceful source, not only to the injury of the regular members of the +profession, but to the imminent danger of the community also. In legal +matters, no man can give you advice without being duly licensed to do so; +but in medicine and surgery any man may prescribe the most deadly poison, +or amputate a leg without the least authority, and, unless death result +from his temerity, without being amenable to any penalty. + +As a proof of the contemptuous treatment to which the profession is +exposed at the hands of the authorities of the nation, great and small, +reference need merely be made to the surgeons attached to the Poor-law +unions, and to the assistant-surgeons of the navy. The latter—gentlemen +who have passed through their education, and must of necessity be in +their twenty-third year—are not allowed a separate cabin, in which to +prosecute their studies, until after three years of service, but are +doomed to the noise and inconvenience of the midshipmen’s berth. They +are thus put on an equality with youths, six or seven years younger than +themselves, and who are still in a state of pupilage. Whilst from the +former, for the most part, is exacted a quantity of physical labour, +sufficient to exhaust the stoutest frame, for a stipend considerably less +than would be accepted by a skilled artisan; the threat having been in +many instances put forth against the established practitioner of the +neighbourhood, that if he will not undertake the duty on the terms +proposed, the “Board” will invite some fresh man into the district, to +whom, of course, an opportunity would be given of shouldering his elder +rival off his stool, and acquiring for himself a part, at least, of the +professional emolument of the place. + +Again; who would have presumed, that in this intelligent country the +General Board of Health would only contain in its composition one medical +man? Who would have believed that the important sanitary affairs, which +come under its jurisdiction, should be investigated and adjudicated upon +by a committee of gentlemen, with that one solitary exception, totally +unconnected with medicine? + +One great drawback against entering upon the duties of medical life, as a +profession, will be acknowledged in the fact, that there are no high +places of honour or emolument set apart for the members of that +profession as there are for divines and lawyers. The utmost a medical +man can hope for, because it is the highest point he can possibly attain +to, is to have the honour of knighthood or a baronetcy conferred upon +him—distinctions which are bestowed upon Lord Mayors and Sheriffs with a +much more profuse hand than on the scientific portion of the community. +The Archbishop of Canterbury ranks next to the members of the Royal +Family, and the Bishops take precedence of all temporal Barons. The Lord +Chancellor’s rank is next in order to the Archbishop; and thus the two +highest offices in the realm are open to the ambition of the most obscure +student in divinity and law, while to the professors of medicine not even +a commissionership is ever offered. + +With an equally niggardly hand are pecuniary grants and pensions +distributed. There must indeed be something very extraordinary in the +case that would induce a minister to recommend to the Sovereign a grant +of money, as a pension or otherwise, to any member of the medical +profession, however benefited mankind might have been by his discoveries, +and however old and indigent he might himself have become. Nor do widows +and children fare much better. Should a pension be vouchsafed to the +family of a distinguished professional man, left in straitened +circumstances, it is, for the most part, comparatively inconsiderable in +amount. + +Successful soldiers are titled and pensioned, and any man who has +invented a destructive weapon of war is held in high veneration; while +those who have devoted their lives to the mitigation of human suffering, +and have even discovered a certain means of abrogating pain under the +most severe surgical operations, are passed by as unworthy of regard. + +Unfortunately, the remarks I have penned above are applicable, for the +most part, to all literary men, equally with the professors of medicine. +In no country is literature more highly prized by the people, or less +patronised by the Government. + +Such is surely a suicidal as well as narrow-minded policy, because it +tends to drive young men of high talent and promise, who might otherwise +be disposed to seek medicine as a profession, into some other walk of +life. Every encouragement, on the contrary, ought to be held out to the +flower of the rising generation to enter into the medical profession as a +study, since the health, and, consequently, the happiness of the +community are entrusted, under Providence, to their keeping. One would +suppose, indeed, that if no higher motive was the actuating principle, a +selfish regard for their own well-being would induce those in power to +render it worth the while of youths of genius and extensive acquirements +to devote themselves to this noble pursuit. For this purpose some posts +of distinction should be put aside, or new ones created, and appropriated +to the professors of medicine; and in that case it would soon be +discovered, that a preliminary scientific education, and the knowledge +acquired in the intimate intercourse with society, enjoyed by the medical +practitioner, by no means disqualified him to undertake places of trust, +and to execute delicate and important services. + +Another complaint, that the profession might justly make, is, the want of +any representatives of their interest in the lower House of Parliament. +Both in the Lords and Commons assembly the law possesses a large and even +overwhelming force; and although the constitution of the country +precludes the ministers of religion from holding seats in the Commons, +yet that want is well supplied by the talent and eloquence of the members +sent by the universities of Oxford and Cambridge into that chamber; and +the omission is, moreover, fully and excellently made up by the number, +learning, and energy of the bishops having seats in the House of Peers; +while the professors of medicine are altogether without any one to stand +up in their behalf. The consequence of this is, that if a medical +question is started, or one having reference to sanitary measures—which, +indeed, are interesting to every individual in the state, inasmuch as his +own health and safety may be involved in them—it is either shelved on the +first decent opportunity, or discussed languidly in a thin house. If the +University of London, the Royal Colleges of Physicians and Surgeons, and +some of the northern Universities, had the privilege granted them of +sending representatives to the Legislature, the addition might be found +to be as much for the benefit of the nation as for the honour and +advantage of the profession itself. {157} + +About this time, finding that my friend the Mir Shahamet Ali intended to +visit the north of England, I availed myself of the opportunity, and +joined him in the excursion. This gentleman was the most remarkable +stranger I have met with in England; he was a native of Delhi, where he +received his education. The Mir was a most intelligent and learned man, +and had travelled much in Bengal with Sir Claude Wade, whom he had +accompanied to the Punjaub and Bahawalpur, when that gentleman went there +for the purpose of negotiating with those States for throwing open the +navigation of the Indus and the Sutledge. The Mir was afterwards sent +with presents from the English Government to the Court of Lahore, and he +subsequently published, in English, two books, the “Sikhs and Affghans,” +and a “History of Bahawalpur,” besides one or two little pamphlets on +Indian affairs; he also long held the situation of _Mir Moonshee_ in the +Upper Provinces. + +Perhaps I may here be allowed to give an anecdote illustrative of London +_haut ton_ and society, showing how scrupulous they are, and how a +stranger may inadvertently fall into disrepute; and also, how easily a +foreigner, by slight mistakes, may suffer severe consequences. I once, +mistaking the designation of my friend, the Mir, introduced him at the +houses of some religious fashionables as a prince, supposing the term +Mir, in Hindustani, to be equivalent to the word Emir in Arabic. Some +person chose to bestow this title on _myself_ instead of my friend, and I +was supposed to be the prince. An intimate friend afterwards told me +that I had been accused of introducing _myself_ as a prince. Thus a +report, arising from a mistake of which I was wholly unconscious, was for +some time circulated to my prejudice. + +But return to the Mir, he came to this country to obtain a better insight +into European manners and society. Her Majesty the Queen of England was +graciously pleased to receive him, and he was presented at court by the +Earl of Shaftesbury. General Duncan Macleod, of the Indian army, whose +engineering talents have been so justly admired, as exemplified in the +splendid palace erected under his sole direction for the Nawab of +Moorshedabad, also a friend of the Mir, was present. During this +presentation, a very pleasing incident occurred, illustrative to the +latter of the urbanity of Scottish aristocracy. Being very much struck +with the splendid Highland costume of one of the gentlemen present, the +Mir wished to be allowed to inspect it nearer, when General Macleod, with +characteristic amiability, apologetically explained to the object of his +admiration how much his _protégé_, the Oriental, was struck with his +appearance. The chieftain very good-naturedly invited the Mir to +approach, adding, “Perhaps you would like to see a chieftain’s wife +also,” and forthwith introduced him to his lady, the Duchess of ---. + +As may readily be conceived, it was most agreeable for me to travel about +with such a companion as the Mir. We visited all the manufacturing +districts together. The Mir was indefatigable, active, inquiring, and +desirous of obtaining knowledge in every acquirable shape. We proceeded +to Birmingham, where we were received by our consul, Mr. Collis, and +entertained at his house during our sojourn; he shewed us whatever sights +in that wonderful town he deemed at all interesting to us. The various +places we travelled through are so familiar to my English readers, that +to relate them all, would prove tedious. Suffice it that we got on very +well together, till we were one day leaving Sheffield for Edinburgh. At +Sheffield we had nearly exhausted our funds in purchasing cutlery, etc., +so that when we came to the railway-station we had not enough ready money +between us to pay our fare onward to Edinburgh. We were, however, +bearers of letters of credit, and stating our circumstances to the head +booking-clerk, he kindly consented to allow us to proceed by the train on +condition that we paid on arriving in Edinburgh. Accordingly we took our +seats in the carriage, and began to condole with each other on the +awkwardness of our position. There was one other person beside ourselves +in the carriage, and this gentleman, though a perfect stranger, kindly +came forward and pressed upon us the use of his purse. After some little +altercation and hesitation, Mir Shahamet Ali and myself agreed to borrow +five pounds of this worthy stranger, on condition that we should be +permitted to return it immediately after our arrival at Edinburgh. Our +promise to pay was, as the reader may imagine, promptly met. This +stranger proved to be Mr. Walker, the celebrated engineer, of Great +George-street, and on returning from London to Scotland, I called to +thank this estimable gentleman for his unsolicited kindness to myself and +friend; and through this slight incident, I still enjoy his friendship +and acquaintance. + +While in Edinburgh, we were much delighted at our visit to Holyrood in +its quiet and decayed grandeur—majestic with age—replete with tragic and +romantic reminiscences. This impressed us much, and the whole aspect of +Edinburgh, especially as viewed by night, struck us as singularly +Oriental; and we, in imagination, could with ease have conjured up some +additions to the Arabian nights. The dim outline of the castle on the +rock—the old town, dark and confused beneath, whilst on the opposite +height, row upon row of twinkling or brilliant lights flashed across the +sight; these might have made one easily suppose that the grovelling +creatures of earth inhabited the lower portion, guarded by some +portentously frowning power; whilst above danced the fairies in their +exquisite mother’s light (called by the common people, “Bonnie Jumpers”); +and in the new town dwelt the _Magi_, all illumination, life, light, and +splendour. The hospitality and warmth of kindness of the Scotch to us +strangers, was irresistibly gratifying, and we were most kindly +entertained by many of them. + +In our walks, the boys frequently screamed after and cheered us, loudly +vociferating, “_Ibrahim Pasha_!” I presume that they had heard of him, +and imagined that every Oriental must be _the man_. The English almost +invariably, even amongst the better classes, call everybody that wears a +_fez_ or _tarboush_, _a Turk_, much upon the same principle as our people +call every one with a _hat_ (_chapeau_), _Franji_ or a man from European +countries, without distinction as to sect, creed, nationality, or the +vast variety that exists amongst both people of government, laws, +manners, and histories. The English also have an idea that every one +wearing a turban must be a follower of Mahomed. Apropos of this subject, +I may here recount an anecdote which will doubtless amuse my readers. + +One day when I was at the hospital, there was a woman waiting for a +surgical operation to be performed. After explaining its nature, the +surgeon, much to my delight, asked me to perform the needful operation. +Up to this moment the woman was lying on a bed perfectly resigned, and +with both hands clasped over her eyes. No sooner, however, did I take up +the instruments, and draw near to perform the needful service, than she +started up in bed, and glaring wildly at me with terror depicted in her +countenance, and doubtless alarmed at my Oriental garb and beard, she +screamed out with all her might, “The Turk! the Turk! the Turk is going +to cut me!” Nor could any arguments of mine persuade her to submit to +the operation at my hands. + +My friend, Shahamet Ali, had for some time rented a cottage at Ryde, in +the Isle of Wight, where on our return he invited me to pass a few days. +I cordially accepted this invitation, and whilst at Ryde had the +happiness of meeting Lord and Lady Downes, together with Sir Claude Wade +and his amiable lady, from all of whom I received much kindness, which +has not ceased to this day. My visit to Ryde extended over a month, and +my friend, Shahamet Ali, was during that time making his arrangements for +a journey to Constantinople and thence to Mecca, which last place he +visited for the express purpose of purifying himself, he having mixed so +much with Christians that his religion required his pilgrimage thither. +I accompanied him as far as Paris, where I left with him letters of +introduction to my friends in the East. I have since heard from him; he +had reached Mecca in safety, had performed his ablutions to satisfy the +prejudice of his countrymen, thus washing away all impurities supposed to +be contracted by mingling for so long a time in the customs and manners +of the infidels. He is now settled as agent for the East India Company +at Selana in Malwa. + +We both were much pleased with the Parisians. No introduction was +needed—our position in society was a passport everywhere. The French are +so amiable, _au dévant de vous_; perfect in grace, fascination and +_toilette_; more cheerful, and perhaps warmer-hearted than the +English—but far less stable. A Frenchman may form a violent attachment +to a person to-day, and to-morrow be wholly indifferent as to his +whereabouts or welfare. An Englishman may be some months before he +evinces the least symptoms of even a partiality; but when a friendship +really exists, you may count upon its sincerity and continuance. + +I returned to London and remained for some time, when my good friend, +Mahomed Pasha, being recalled to Constantinople, it was arranged that I +should return to Paris and reside there. Amongst others whose +acquaintance I had the honour of renewing in France, was that of M. +Lamartine, the great admirer of Lebanon, whom I had met in Syria. We +were mutually pleased to renew our friendship. He wrote a very flowery +letter to the Sultan Abdul Medjid, in which he said that having a map +before him of all that mighty potentate’s dominions, he had fixed upon a +little spot in Syria (Lebanon), whither he would wish to withdraw himself +from the turmoil and strife of life to settle down; but the Turkish +government, considering that the Maronites, who already possessed much +influence through French protection might choose him as their Emir, +consequently, in lieu of the small bit of ground begged for in Syria, +presented him with an immense tract of fertile ground in Asia Minor, +where the poet-statesman of France might sow every seed, save the seed of +political discord, which in such a wilderness would never take root. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. +VISIT TO PARIS. + + +Orientals who visit Paris for the first time are at a loss to conceive +anything more magnificent than its streets and its palaces and gardens. +After having been in England, however, their opinion is materially +altered, though I must still admit that there are some striking features +in Paris; amongst these, the Boulevards, Champs Elysées, Tuileries, the +Louvre and Luxembourg, are the most attractive. Of the greater part of +the streets of Paris I can say but little; and there are some so filthy, +narrow, and almost impassable, as to outstrip the meanest town in Turkey. +Nothing but the uncouth wooden _sabots_ of the French could at any season +traverse them. Though I must acknowledge that nothing can surpass the +easy elegance and refinement of the higher classes of society, it would +appear, from what a poor countryman of mine told me, that the second-rate +lodging houses are miserable in the extreme. One would imagine, from his +description, that they went to the opposite extreme to luxury. +Complaining bitterly of his fate, for he had all his life before been +accustomed to opulent independence in Lebanon, he wrote to me the other +day as follows, viz.:— + + “The disagreeable first-impression made upon my mind on first taking + possession of my lodgings here (Paris), was the melancholy + resemblance existing between my chimney-place and a Syrian + church-yard, for I can assure you that its shape resembles exactly + one of our ordinary tombstones. For the first few nights I hardly + dared look at it before going to bed, lest I should have my rest + broken by dreams of spectres and other horrid sprites of the + imagination. In addition to its disagreeable appearance, it smokes + so terribly that I dare not light a fire, though shivering with cold, + lest I should lose my eyesight from the effects of the smoke; but + this is not all; the door will not shut well, the floorings are of + damp bricks, and the rooms are built without respect to proportion, + elegance, or comfort. The house I am living in is eight stories + high, and heigho! poor me, I live on the fourth floor, so that I have + a hundred steps to mount up and down a dozen times a-day. The + greatest nuisance of all is, that the street door is continually + being left open, so that any one given to pilfering is at perfect + liberty to walk up and down stairs and help himself to whatever the + fates may throw in his way. There certainly is nominally a + _concierge_. This old worthy, however, is either so engrossed with + an old newspaper or so comfortably napping, that he is perfectly + unconscious of all passing around him. + + “I have vainly complained to him of this negligence, and pointed out + the inconvenience and interruption I was perpetually being exposed to + by people rapping at my door, under the pretext of inquiring if M. + So-and-so lodged there, but evidently with the intention of finding + out if there was any one within to hinder their forcing an entrance. + His invariable reply used to be, ‘_Eh bien_! _que voulez vous que je + fasse_.’ There are no bells, so that I may die in a fit, or be burnt + to death before any assistance could be obtained.” + +Such is the deplorable picture drawn by my poor friend, who, on the other +hand, lauds up to the skies lodgings of a similar class in London, and as +he is a sharp, acute man, I have little doubt but that he is correct in +his ideas. + +What surprised me very much in Paris was the apparent ignorance of the +French with regard to the cities and towns of the Holy Land. I forgot at +that period that they were restricted from reading their Bibles, and that +consequently very few of them were likely to have the names of places, +and people familiar to the English and ourselves, so firmly impressed +upon their minds. My appearance and costume never excited curiosity. +When they asked me whence I came from, and I answered _Syria_, the word +made no impression on them. + +“Where is that?” said one man to another in my hearing. + +“_Ma foi_, _je ne saurais vous dire_—unless it be some obscure village in +Algeria which our colonists have not yet explored.” + +Of course the higher classes are not guilty of such ignorance, for who +could have thrown a better light on the beauties and localities of Syria +than the learned and amiable Lamartine, whose accurate work, _Souvenirs +de l’Orient_, is deservedly popular over Europe. + +I have many pleasant _souvenirs_ of the friends I met in Paris. The +hospitable _reunions_ of their Excellencies the Turkish and the English +ambassadors—the kindness of the American representative, Mr. Rives—the +brilliant balls I was invited to by various families of fashion—and an +adventure at the hotel V....—never to be forgotten, and which it is my +intention at some future period to publish, which I have no doubt will +interest many of my English readers—all these I recall with pleasure, and +I avail myself of this opportunity with gladness to thank my many friends +in Paris for the courtesy and kindness I have ever met with at their +hands. But putting these aside as elegant exceptions, I prefer on the +whole England, and the friendship of an Englishman to that of a +Frenchman,—the private character of the former has a sounder foundation, +and they know how to appreciate real moral, domestic comfort and +happiness, such as our countrymen seek for and find amongst the citron +groves and gardens of Syria. + +Now it can hardly be said that a Frenchman knows what domestic bliss +signifies. With him the Café is a _sine quâ non_; he may have an amiable +and charming wife, a young and attractive family, every charm of domestic +happiness that should link his heart and thoughts with home, and draw him +towards it as the only true and rational source of enjoyment; but he +leaves all these, and looks upon them as insipid; his sole delight is to +wander about from café to café, varying his amusements by an occasional +game at billiards or a _petit verre_, else he strays from theatre to +operas, from operas to balls, and some of the wealthier classes live for +weeks, and sometimes months, in the country in the strictest seclusion, +practising an economy amounting to penuriousness, in order that they may, +on their return to town, be enabled to gratify this passion. The wives +of these gentlemen, continually deserted, left to themselves, and +naturally of a gay turn, which in many instances arises from a neglect of +a proper moral education, form those _liaisons_ with others, which are +publicly known and talked about with the utmost _nonchalance_, and which, +in my humble opinion, are an outrage to the name of Christianity, and a +disgrace to a nation acknowledged in every other respect to stand high in +the scale of civilization. I cannot describe what a painful effect it +has upon the mind of Syrian strangers to witness such things countenanced +in France; they leave the country with very poor opinions of its +civilization—poorer still of its Christianity; and they disseminate these +opinions amongst our own people on their return to Syria; hence it arises +that oftentimes the poorer and more ignorant inhabitants of Syria, who +cannot distinguish one European nation from another, but who set all down +under the head of Franks, and suppose all to be of one creed and manner +of thinking, are apt to imagine that the English are only next-door to +infidels, and consequently a people to be feared, if not entirely +avoided; but this is an error which I will occupy myself in rectifying as +soon as I can find time to distribute tracts in Syria descriptive of the +laws, manners, customs, and religions, of the different nations of +Europe. + +But to return to the French, or rather the middle classes of the French. +I found it almost invariably the case that should a Frenchman invite you +to a _café_, he does so in the full expectation that you in your turn +will give him a treat. His character is inconsistency personified—he is +fickle and capricious—he enters freely into conversation with you, and +lets you into all his secrets during the first five minutes of his +acquaintance, and he entertains you with a string of personal adventures. +With him every one is _mon cher_! _mon brave_! _mon ami_! He could kiss +and hug you on parting, and swears eternal fidelity. The next day his +ardour has cooled—the third he restricts himself to a bow—the fourth, and +he mingles with the crowd—and you never meet him again perhaps in a +life-time. + +For a ball-room society give me Paris—for a quiet untiring friend, give +me England. And of the two my heart prefers the latter. + +From France I travelled to Vienna. After delivering my letters to the +minister in that city, I proceeded to Constantinople. On arriving there +I took up my abode with my old friend the Emir Sayed, the grandson of the +Emir Beschir. + + + + +CHAPTER X. +STAY AT CONSTANTINOPLE. + + +Even at this distance of time, my spirit is filled with melancholy, when +I think of that kind friend with whom I passed the greater portion of my +time whilst at Constantinople: perhaps a description of one evening spent +in his society may be of interest. + +The Emir Sayed—a wreck of greatness, whose fond dream of life’s realities +can only find an echo in the past—the shattered fragment of one born to +command—second only to a supreme sovereign—he is a helpless +broken-hearted man, supported on the alms of those who could once barely +claim the high honour of admission into his presence. So much does +misfortune level the creatures of the Creator—so great the fall from a +princely estate to a beggarly dependence; thank God, however, even the +gloomiest hours of existence, a light, however feeble, of the brighter +hopes of life, breaks in upon the soul like an April sunbeam, and chases +from its darkened caverns all the moist drops of a tearful heart. It was +thus with the Emir Sayed. His favorite resort in Stamboul was a _café_, +where of an evening, furnished with a _chibūk_ and a cup of coffee, he +would sit, surrounded by his most intimate friends, and listen from hour +to hour to the marvellous or amusing tales told there nightly by +professional tale-tellers. On such occasions it was a privilege to me to +accompany the fallen prince, for, besides the instruction I derived in +learning _au fond_ the technicalities of the Turkish language, I learnt a +lesson in the experiences of life—how to bear up against misfortunes like +a man—how to bow the head to the will of Providence, and submit to what +might appear a calamity, and still doubtless might be intended as a +safeguard or a blessing to him, whom the Great Benefactor has seen fit to +surround with troubles, lest his soul should stray from the narrow path +of righteousness. + +We will now, by the reader’s permission, fancy ourselves threading the +narrow streets of the Turkish capital, following a servant, who carries a +_fannar_, or lantern. At length we reach the _café_. A thousand lights, +strung upon every conceivable hook, lend their enlivening brilliancy to +light up the _salon_; the open space in front is filled with attentive +auditors, all seated on diminutive stools, or carpets, all silent, all +sedate, mostly wearing beards, and every one smoking or sipping his +coffee. We pass through a kind of human alley. We enter the +coffee-shop: the seat at the furthermost end—the seat of honour—is always +reserved for the Emir. “He is a Bey still, and also a stranger.” + +At length we are all seated, all served, and the amusements of the +evening commence; the violin and the guitar, both have been tuned, and +the first piece commences: a short symphony of lively music, and then the +bard of the company sings a song, of which the following is a specimen:— + + Breeze of the West, I pray thee roam + Toward my moon-faced lady’s home; + To her my flight forlorn declare, + Tittle by tittle, hair by hair, + + Parted from thee, thou form of grace, + My heart hath been grief’s dwelling-place; + And love has drawn my wandering feet, + From grove to grove, from street to street. + + My heart, when bent on beauty’s chase, + Ne’er found so sweet a form and face; + Although with roving step it went, + From house to house, from tent to tent. + + While others smile, and play, and flirt, + This bleeding heart bemoans its hurt, + Like a young rose, blood-stained with grief, + Petal by petal, leaf by leaf. + + The garden where I loved to trace, + Sweet blooming flowers in thy face, + How _low_ and _dead_ all gardens seem, + Alley by alley, stream by stream. + + Sweet jasmine-bosomed love,—I pray + Fondly to heaven by night and day, + Once more to see that form and face, + Lip pressed to lip, and face to face. + + Of all the garden flowers that be, + Why is the rose most dear to me? + ’Tis that it’s like thy heart so true, + Odour to odour, hue to hue. + + Though far from Allah’s loving sight, + The Fates have borne my soul’s delight; + Go, Western Breeze, this message bear, + Where’er thou art, my heart is there! + +The song is no sooner concluded, narghilies, pipes and coffee handed +round, than the story-teller’s abilities are called into requisition, and +he tells us the story of + + “THE TAILOR AND THE SULTAN. + + “Formerly when Baghdad was flourishing, when great men sometimes + condescended to sink themselves to a level with the common herd of + mankind, there lived and reigned the Sultan Houssein. He was a + famous man and a just judge, but rather eccentric withal. As his + Grand Vizier had, on more than one occasion, given him cause of + dissatisfaction, he was determined at any cost to get the cleverest + man in the kingdom to perform the duties of that office; but he + resorted to a curious trial of their talent. A proclamation was + issued, that the sultan offered the highest dignity in the empire to + him amongst his subjects, who should be able satisfactorily to + perform what he should require; on the other hand, the penalty in + case of failure being, that the man so failing should forfeit his + head. Under such circumstances, the aspirants were not over + numerous, but still there were not wanting ambitious men, who were + willing to place their heads in danger for the attainment of a + position, which perhaps they least of any of the people of the + country were fitted for. At last, a presumptuous tailor offered + himself as a candidate, and was in due course ushered into the + presence of royalty. The poor maker of garments found the sultan + reclining on a carpet; and, hanging on a nail in the wall of the + room, was a solitary counterpane; and in this counterpane the + solution of the whole of the difficulty lay—the task being to cover + the sultan entirely over with it. When the tailor first tried, to + his consternation he found it too short by two good spans. He then + suggested that another should be introduced; but the sultan laughed + and hooted at the idea. At last a bright notion flashed across the + tailor. He had long been accustomed to the nefarious art of + cabbaging, so he set his inventive faculties to work, to find out how + he could best cabbage a piece from the length of the sultan’s body, + or, in other words, reduce it into as small a compass as could + possibly be effected. Bethinking himself luckily of a little cane he + usually carried in his girdle, he first covered the sultan’s head, + his feet remaining uncovered; he removed the embroidered slippers, + and stealthily bringing out his cane, caught the sultan a severe blow + across the soles of his feet, that he involuntarily tucked them up, + thus drawing himself into a sufficiently small compass, and the + tailor, availing himself of this circumstance, instantly tucked the + counterpane round him, and thus effectually succeeded in entirely + covering him, at the same time telling him he must always take care + to stretch his legs according to his covering.” + +With songs and stories, such as I have given above, the time passes until +nine o’clock, at which hour most of those assembled take their departure; +and the Emir, attended as when he arrived, returns to his disconsolate +dwelling to talk over the misfortunes of other days. + +Perhaps here it would not be out of place, to show the fallacy of the +opinions usually entertained in Western Europe as to the state of things +in Turkey. People talk of the fanaticism of the Turks; and in England +more especially they seem to entertain an innate terror of the very name +of Turk. Anything ferocious, anything ugly, and black, and dingy, is +called “like a Turk.” Now what can undeceive this excessive ignorance +better than the conduct of the present amiable and excellent Sultan, of +whom many instances might be given, shewing the utmost liberality of +conduct towards those of his subjects professing a different creed, and +their admission to some of the most responsible public offices. It is a +fact worthy of remark, as illustrating this toleration of spirit, that +his representatives at the courts of London, Paris, Vienna, and Berlin, +{175} have on several occasions been of the Greek faith. Also, on the +event of the marriage of the daughter of the Prince Etienne Vogorides. +(Prince Etienne was a native of Bulgaria. He was during ten years Prince +of Samos. Latterly, however, he resided at Constantinople, and is high +in favour with the Sultan, who for a long time has been accessible to the +Prince at any hour; and he is a faithful devoted servant of the Sultan. +One of his daughters is married to our present respected ambassador in +London, and it is not necessary for me to inform the reader of the +manifold virtues and amiable qualities of this lady; but her father’s +excellence was such as has obtained for him a notoriety and honour +unrivalled in the annals of Mahomedan history. When I was last at +Constantinople, a daughter of the prince, a younger sister of our +ambassadress, was married to a wealthy gentleman.) To the astonishment +and intense gratification of every one present, His Majesty the Sultan +attended with his mother at the ceremonial, a most unprecedented act of +courtesy, and one least of all to be expected in Turkey, where the +extreme fanaticism once existing between the two creeds would, we might +have imagined, have raised an insurmountable barrier. What is more +remarkable, the Padishah stood up; the prince seeing this, whispered the +patriarch to curtail the ceremony. The sharp eyes of the Sultan noticed +and understood this hint, and he immediately desired the patriarch to +perform the rites as usual, as he was anxious to witness the ceremony +fully performed. By departing on occasions such as these from the strict +rules and regulations of the Mahomedan code, and by disregarding the +reproachful remonstrances of the Ulemas, who are the most determined +advocates of perfect uniformity to their doctrines, Sultan Abdul Medjid +Khan, has evinced a strong desire to introduce a thorough social reform +into his empire, and he has hereby conciliated the good will and gained +the affection of his non-Mahomedan subjects. Indeed, among all the +present rulers of the world, and especially those whom Providence has +endowed with ample means of improving the condition of their subjects, +the Sultan occupies a distinguished position; and to him more credit is +due for the reforms he has introduced among his people, than to any other +sovereign of the civilised globe, and for this evident reason, that in +the path he had to follow the greatest difficulties have been met with +and overcome; namely, those powerful ones which spring from religious +bigotry and prejudice. These he has either overcome or obviated with the +utmost wisdom and perseverance. And even her enemies are obliged to +confess that Turkey, under the rule of Abdul Medjid, is in a far more +vigorous and flourishing condition than they either believed or hoped. +And during the whole of this critical period, in which the affairs of +this empire have been agitated, what a noble example of calm and +dignified moderation has both his public and private conduct exhibited. +To the violent and uncourteous menaces of his enemy, and to the +extravagant character of his pretensions, he has opposed a conciliating, +yet firm line of policy, which has won for him the respect and support of +the more intelligent portion of Europe; and when his character becomes +better known to the English public, which it will probably in the course +of events, I feel convinced it will claim and win all the admiration it +deserves from a people whose public judgment is perhaps the most +impartial in the world. My object is not to flatter; but I will avow, +that I wish by facts and truth to remove some of that prejudice which is +more or less associated in this country with the idea of a Turk. What I +have said concerning my sovereign, is borne out by all intelligent +travellers who have recently visited his dominions. For his love of +literature—for his liberal patronage of men distinguished by literary or +other merit—for his patriotism, evinced in his unceasing endeavours to +bestow on his country all the advantages to be derived from modern +scientific discovery, and for the amiability and gentleness of his +personal character, I feel no hesitation, from what I have read of them, +in ranking him with the most distinguished sovereigns of ancient +times—with Frederick of Prussia, and I will add Peter the Great. But +while he far excels the two last in the amiability of his character and +disposition, he equals any of them in his efforts to advance the glory of +his country and the welfare of his people. + +Owing to the ignorance which prevails in Europe on the subject of Turkey, +a great outcry is frequently made by many persons about events which +occur in that country, without for one moment taking into consideration +the difference in the temperament of the people, arising from their +Asiatic origin. Our great cause of surprise, is the sudden rise of +individuals in comparatively indigent circumstances to places of great +power. When, however, it is considered that the Orientals view the +various grades of society in another light to the Western Europeans, the +sudden aggrandisement of individuals from the lower classes will cease to +be a matter of surprise. In Turkey, men of the noblest birth mix +indiscriminately with all ranks, and he who is possessed of wealth, +talent, or interest, may rise to offices of the greatest trust; and, as +“knowledge is power,” I can see no reason why talent should not be +brought into the notice which it merits. As a proof of the justice and +benefit accruing from this system, I may adduce the case of a Kapudan +Pasha, whose station in life was very humble, but, being gifted with more +than ordinary abilities, he was promoted to the chief command of the +Turkish fleet, which was never better managed than whilst under his +control. Other instances of a similar character are of frequent +occurrence, more particularly in the subordinate departments of the home +service. A favourite eunuch, or the brother of a Georgian or Circassian +concubine or wife, has had honours suddenly and most unexpectedly +showered upon him in the civil and military service; and there are at +this date many pashas of both services, who owe their rise to similar +unforeseen but fortuitous circumstances. It is true, many of these can +neither read nor write, but they are possessed of great power of +discernment, and are accompanied by two or three individuals who possess +sufficient education to carry out the views of their leader in a becoming +manner. A good secretary, generally an Armenian, is an indispensable +requisite. + +The evil arises here in the choice of the subordinates; who, if they be +of a bigotted and selfish turn of mind, the benevolent intentions of the +government are but imperfectly carried out, or frustrated in spite of the +most strenuous efforts. + +Sultan Abdul Medjid, and his ministers, {178} deserve the highest credit +for the various attempts which have at different times been made, to +introduce a thorough reform into the financial system of the Porte. It +is undoubtedly a herculean task, for I do not believe that there has ever +existed in any country in the world, so perfect and general a system of +corruption and extortion, on the part of the inferior officials. Though +not oppressive in themselves, the taxes levied upon the people have, in +consequence, become an intolerable yoke. Every village and individual +taxed generally pays much more than the legitimate amount ordered to be +levied by the government. The emirs and district governors, the sheikhs, +kekhiahs, and heads of the tribes, live upon the villagers, and oblige +the poor tenant-farmers to furnish their establishments with horses and +servants, and practise other extortions. To meet these urgent exactions, +the poor villagers are obliged annually to raise loans guaranteed on the +ensuing season’s crops at a most usurious rate of interest, as high as +from twenty-five to thirty-five and forty per cent. per annum, either +from wealthy Jews, Armenians, or Greeks, and formerly even many of the +protegés of the different European consulates took advantage of this +state of things, and fattened upon the misfortunes and miseries of the +poor peasants, over whom they rode roughshod. The existence of so +terrible an evil could not long remain unknown to the inquiring mind of +the Sultan, and though his sources of correct information have +necessarily been meagre, he acquired an insight into it, sufficient to +convince him of the necessity for a change. Accordingly, he ordered +certain taxes to be abolished, others to be reduced; and he, above all, +is endeavouring to organise an honest and simple system of collection. +To this end all his ministers and employés have been obliged, before +taking office, to promise, upon oath, to discharge their several duties +impartially and justly; above all, not to receive bribes in any shape. +He has been foiled to a great extent in these attempts; and hence may be +derived the clearest and simplest explanation of the financial +embarrassments of his government. _Apropos_ of this, I may quote from +the letter of a friend, which has just come to hand. + +“Everybody seems to imagine that the speedy downfall of Turkey is +inevitable, that its doom is all but sealed, and that she is passing as +rapidly as she can into the hands of Russia. But it ought to be well +known in Western Europe, that the so-much-talked-of balance of power in +the East, cannot be thus so easily or so recklessly sacrificed by the two +great powers, England and France. The jealousy of these powers is a +sufficient safeguard for Turkey; and they will protect her from any +aggression on the part of Russia or Austria on her rights and territory; +and it is to me evident that Russia’s long course of policy with regard +to the Ottoman empire in Turkey, will be frustrated from a quarter whence +she may least expect it.” + +That which, in my opinion, establishes the resources and vitality of the +Turkish empire is, that if one of the serious struggles to which it has +been exposed for the last forty years, were to have happened to any other +power, it would either have crippled it or caused its entire destruction. +Turkey, on the contrary, has, during this space of time, experienced the +severest trials, as, for instance, the Greek revolution, the destruction +of the Janissaries in 1826 (who at that time constituted her army), the +annihilation of her fleet at Navarino, the protracted war with Russia, +the civil war with Egypt, and the many partial outbreaks caused by the +machinations of European powers; in spite of all these, so far from +sinking, Turkey, at this time possesses, besides irregular troops and +auxiliaries, a regular and well-disciplined army and a splendid fleet, +and is endeavouring still further to increase, and re-establish peace, +and internal security; and also to find the best means of enriching her +treasury without burdening her subjects; and I trust, that, under the +beneficial government of the present benign Sultan, and his enlightened +ministers (in spite of the fanatical party), Turkey will yet make great +progress in civilisation and all its concomitant blessings. At least, if +she does not, it will not be for want of exertion on the part of Abdul +Medjid to introduce into his empire a thorough reform, himself setting an +example to his subjects of forbearance and goodly feeling towards the +many sects dwelling within the boundaries of his empire. The truth of +these views has been amply proved by the gallant resistance offered by +Turkey at the present crisis to the unjust aggressions of Russia. + +Just before leaving Constantinople, a circumstance occurred which created +quite a sensation amongst all classes and creeds. An Armenian girl, the +daughter of very respectable parents, formed a secret attachment to a +young Moslem, in the service of the Sultan. The lovers managed to +contrive interviews without exciting the suspicion of the girl’s friends; +and eventually the girl fled to her lover, embraced the Mahommedan faith, +and was regularly married to him. Sometime after they had been married, +the young girl went to call upon her mother, most probably without her +husband’s consent. The mother and all her relations bemoaning with many +tears her apostasy, implored of the girl not to return to her husband, +but to be received once again into her mother church. The girl, overcome +by emotion for the moment, yielded a ready consent; and for her better +security, it was agreed that she should be placed within the Armenian +asylum. This was accordingly done, and the husband made vain search for +his missing bride. Meanwhile the young lady got tired of her +confinement, and very possibly of the treatment she received from the +over-zealous attendants at the asylum, and accordingly contrived, through +the window of the room where she was confined, to convey a message to her +husband. The husband immediately complained to the authorities; who +without delay demanded the girl of the bishop. The prelate at first +denied any knowledge of the person in question. A military force was +then sent to bring her away at any hazard; and a parley commenced between +the commandant and the bishop, in which the latter gave his _parole +d’honneur_, that if the troops were withdrawn he would conduct the girl +himself next day before the divan, and she should there declare publicly, +which of the two faiths she of her own free will would wish to embrace. +Meanwhile the ambassadors of all European powers had exerted themselves +on the woman’s behalf, but all to no purpose. Next day she was brought +up trembling before the divan, to answer the important question about to +be put her. Most of the European authorities were present, and so was +the husband; and no sooner did her eye meet his again, than all her +resolution failed her; and so powerful was the effect of her love, that +she relinquished parents, family, friends, creed, and nation, all for his +sake; and when asked the question, to which creed she gave the +preference, her reply was—“_I am a Moslem_, _the wife of a Moslem_, _and +I will live and die as such_.” This settled the affair at once. The +Turk took his wife to his house back again, and the poor bishop +sorrowfully withdrew, lamenting as he went along the unfavourable result +of the affair. + +Before quitting the subject of my sojourn at Stamboul, I cannot forget +the great kindness I received from Alfred Churchill, the proprietor of +the Turkish newspaper, “Djeridei Havadis,” which he supplies with +translations, by himself, of the leading topics of European news. + +The father of this gentleman was an English merchant established there. +Being very fond of shooting, it happened one day that on sport intent, he +crossed to seek his game on the Asiatic side of the Bosphorus—I would +observe that a prejudice exists among the more bigoted natives against +Europeans crossing the straits—our gallant sportsman was also +unfortunately somewhat short-sighted, and as one does not commonly shoot +in spectacles, nor employ that species of eye-glass which some of the +young English ladies are so fond of bringing to bear upon any object of +their curiosity, the natural consequence was that Mr. Churchill fell into +a misadventure, and unluckily wounded a Turkish child. This of course, +brought the relations and friends, and indeed the whole neighbourhood +upon him, who attacked him with sticks, stones, and slippers, and +anything at hand. After half killing him, they dragged him off to +prison. This was a natural, perhaps a deserved, punishment for going +about and taking bad aims in dangerous localities. + +His ambassador made a dreadful noise about this mishap. Colonel --- was +sent from England to enquire into the circumstances, who very fairly +reported that our friend was certainly wrong, considering the state of +his vision, to be shooting near the place, and the Turks were also to +blame for the manner of their attack. + +But the government of Turkey, after all the trouble and correspondence it +caused them, nobly and generously allowed him a reparation, namely, the +privilege of trading duty free in salt, which put several thousands into +his pocket. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. +EGYPT. + + +Resuming my narrative, my readers will be interested by a slight sketch +of Egypt. This country, now called by the natives “Messir,” was styled, +in the Hebrew Scriptures, “The land of Mizraim”—a strange similarity in +the two names, which places it beyond a doubt that, however much the face +of the country may have been changed since the days of Moses and the +children of Israel, and though consecutively under the sway of +governments and people whose language and dialects varied in the extreme, +the same original name has been faithfully preserved, though corrupted +and abbreviated by various pronunciations given to it by various people. +A land of troubles and misery it has been through many long centuries, +from the fearful days when Aaron’s rod manifested the supreme power of +the God of Abraham before the eyes of an unbelieving and stiff-necked +people, down to within the last few years. The frightful devastations +committed by the plague, and the extermination of the Mameluke power; +these have been the last manifest outpourings of the wrath of God. Let +us hope that the full cup of indignation has been poured out and emptied +to the dregs; and that the prophetic words of Isaiah have been fulfilled +as far as regards the curse, and that the predicted blessing is about to +fall upon the land. “The Lord shall smite Egypt: he shall smite and heal +it; and they shall return to the Lord, and he shall heal them,” etc. +(Isaiah xix. 22–25). + +The striking allusion made to the fertility of the soil of Egypt in Gen. +xli. 47—“The earth brought forth by handfuls”—is still exemplified by the +produce. Corn is so plentiful, that cargoes are annually shipped for the +maintenance of other lands, and when the famine was sorely felt in the +neighbouring countries, whole fleets of vessels, laden with corn from +Alexandria, brought to England timely succour to starving multitudes, and +enriched the coffers of not a few speculative merchants, who made the +miseries of their fellow-beings a means of advancing their own welfare in +the world. + +There is little doubt but that Egypt has made great strides in +civilisation under the sway of the present enlightened viceroy; for we +have daily evidence of her continued improvement. Abbas Pasha is now +only about forty-five years of age; he is the son of the eldest son of +Mahomet Ali Pasha, and, therefore, according to the Egyptian rule, which +gives precedence to the brother or his children, became entitled to the +throne after the decease of Ibrahim, whose children, in some countries, +would have been considered lawful successors. Abbas Pasha, unlike his +predecessor, whose habits greatly contributed to curtail his life, is a +man of very moderate and temperate style of living; he has but one wife, +and, by this lady, an only son, now about twelve years of age. At the +recommendation of the honorable Mr. Murray, the late British +consul-general in Egypt, the viceroy sent to England to engage a tutor +for the education of this son in English, and Mr. Artin, an English +lawyer, was the lucky individual fixed upon. + +No sooner had Mr. Artin arrived in Egypt, than Abbas Pasha promoted him +to the dignity of Bey, and he now ranks amongst the nobles of the land. +The Pasha having set the example himself, strongly recommended all his +ministers to have their children educated in like manner; and I have +little doubt but that this good advice will, in the course of time, be +adopted. He also sends annually a number of young men to England to be +educated, who naturally take back with them a strong predilection for the +people with whom they have for some time resided. This will tend greatly +to introduce a love of English civilisation and improvements in the +country. + +Amongst other improvements, Abbas Pasha has built himself a magnificent +palace, Darr il Bedah, midway between Cairo and Suez. This good work +excited the satire and spleen of the French people, who insisted that it +was an act of insanity, throwing away money upon such a palace, situated +in the desert; but, apart from its having given occupation and bread to +thousands of starving inhabitants, the very fact of the Pasha making this +place his favourite summer resort, has drawn the attention of the natives +to the capabilities of the soil in the neighbourhood, and the place, from +being a barren wilderness, is being rapidly brought into cultivation; +villages are springing up; and, in addition to all this, the roads have +been put into excellent order—not a trifling boon conferred upon the vast +number of English travellers that are continually crossing this desert. + +The steamers on the Nile, and the railway now in course of construction, +are still greater proofs of the Pasha’s enlightened and civilised mind. +Abdallah Pasha, an Englishman who some time since embraced Mahomedanism, +was appointed director of the transit, and the Pasha promoted him to that +grade because he thought no one else competent to discharge the duties of +the post. The truth of the matter is, that the English never commanded +greater influence than they do at this present day in Egypt; they are +looked up to and considered as everybody and everything; and for this +they have much to thank the able and honourable Mr. Murray. To give an +example of how far this influence with the Pasha extended, I may mention +that, some time since, two hundred Copts were compelled to enlist as +soldiers. Now these Copts are Christians, and their sufferings amongst +the Moslem Fellahs can be more readily conceived than described; their +friends and families succeeded in interesting Mr. Murray on their behalf, +who interceded with the Pasha; and the result was, that they were +immediately discharged from the army. But to shew how much and how +sincerely Abbas Pasha appreciates the worth of such a man as the late +British consul-general, the best proof I can give is, that when a sad +calamity befell Mr. Murray, and his amiable lady died, the viceroy +ordered all his ministers and head officials to go into mourning for her, +and to follow her remains to the grave. Such a funeral was never +witnessed in modern Egypt. All the nobles of the land, and the first +gentry, without distinction of creed, with black crape round their left +arms and round their red caps, following in mournful procession this +highly respected English lady to her grave. If a potentate had died, +greater honours could not have been rendered; this act is without +precedent in the East. + +During my stay in Egypt, I resided with my kind friend Mr. Raphael Abet. +Mr. Abet is one of three brothers; they were from Syria, and eventually +settled in Egypt. These three brothers were all eminent for their piety +and their charity. One unfortunately died prematurely; but he has left +behind him an undying name, having bequeathed an immense fortune for the +support of charity schools and other similar philanthropic institutions. +The brother, of whose kind hospitalities I so abundantly partook during +my sojourn in Egypt (and whom I cannot refrain from thanking through the +medium of these pages), is equally well known for his benevolence and +good deeds. On the occasion of the revolution in Greece, in 1823, when +the Turks took several females and children prisoners, and carried them +away to be sold as captives in other countries, several of these +unfortunates found a friend and deliverer in Mr. Abet. Not a few of the +captives were carried into Egypt, and there sold. Many of these were, at +a great outlay, purchased by him, who treated them in every respect as +though they had been his own children; he fed, clothed, and educated +them, and eventually they married and settled comfortably in life. One +of the Messrs. Abet is now established in London as a mercantile man; and +I am sure all who know him will bear me out in pronouncing him to be a +good man and a devout Christian. + +Whilst on the subject of Egyptian friends and acquaintances, I must not +neglect to mention the name of that good man Mr. Larking, who has left +behind him in Egypt many a souvenir of which any Englishman might well be +proud; his name is gratefully remembered by all classes in Egypt, from +the viceroy himself down to the meanest peasant. Mr. Larking, on first +establishing himself in Egypt, so ingratiated himself with the Pasha, +that in a very short time he was permitted to purchase whole villages, +over which he ruled with as absolute sway as any Egyptian landowner. The +country round these villages he soon brought into the richest state of +cultivation: and so lenient a master, one under whom they reaped so many +hitherto unheard-of benefits, made the peasants almost adore the name of +Mr. Larking. Not only did he ameliorate the condition of his own land by +the introduction of a superior method of cultivation, but he conferred a +boon upon the whole of Egypt by procuring at some expense and trouble, +the Sea-Island cotton seed, which has succeeded beyond the most sanguine +expectations, and for the sample of it, which was shewn at the Great +Exhibition, Mr. Larking obtained the prize. The viceroy was, of course, +much gratified and pleased at this; and he has bestowed many costly gifts +on Mr. Larking as expressive of his approbation; besides which, that +gentleman has been appointed to act as the Viceroy’s confidential agent +in England. This is only one of the many instances in which commoners +have been raised to a high rank by Mehemet Ali Pasha, who being of +obscure origin, took delight in raising to power those whose personal +merits and talents brought them before his notice. Amongst the Viceroy’s +favourites was one who particularly deserves our notice, viz., the late +Boghas Bey. An Armenian by birth, and of no great opulence or particular +parentage, Boghas Bey was possessed of all those good qualities which +cannot fail to endear one even to the most savage breast: his charities +were proverbial even to the detriment of his own personal interest. Step +by step he rose in the Viceroy’s favour, till he had so far ingratiated +himself with the Pasha, that Boghas was created a Bey, and had other high +distinctions conferred upon him. He might have accumulated immense +wealth, for the Viceroy’s heart and hand were ever open to confer great +benefits upon him, but Boghas Bey preferred to serve his master +gratuitously; and even the produce of the gifts of land forced upon his +acceptance, went towards the maintenance of the poor, and many widows and +orphans bless his name even to this day. But to shew how dangerous it is +to be a favourite at Oriental courts, and how it subjects one to the vile +jealousies of courtiers, even Boghas, favourite as he was, was well nigh +falling a victim to the viceroy’s susceptibility and the villany of +others. Some miscreants had misrepresented his character and actions to +the Pasha, who, in a paroxysm of rage, ordered an officer in attendance +to go instantly to the supposed delinquent’s house, and have him drowned +in the Nile. As good fortune would have it, Boghas had on some previous +occasion saved this very officer’s head, and the man gratefully +remembering this, hid Boghas in his own house, intending to facilitate +his escape to some other country. This was a bold stroke, and one worthy +of great praise. Next morning the viceroy was sadly out of spirits; his +wrath had not only calmed down, but circumstances had actually transpired +which cleared his favourite of all suspicion. Great then was the +viceroy’s consternation and grief on being informed that his orders had +been executed to the letter: he tore his beard and gave way to +exclamations of such sincere sorrow, that the officer took courage to +prostrate himself at the viceroy’s feet, and explain how matters really +stood. It is needless to say that he was readily pardoned, and Boghas +received into higher favour than ever. At last, however, a sterner +executioner than the one sent by the Pasha knocked at Boghas Bey’s door. +Death came armed, and the good man died, to the universal sorrow of the +Pasha and all Cairo. Such had been his munificence during his lifetime, +that at his death he was almost a bankrupt. The viceroy, determined to +carry his esteem to the last, ordered him a public funeral, at which all +the Egyptian officials and European consuls and merchants were invited to +attend. So that Boghas was buried with honours such as are rarely paid +to a prince in that country. + +Of course during my stay in Egypt, I had often opportunities of visiting +all the known antiquities, and amongst others the celebrated Pyramids, +those noble testimonies of the bygone splendour of the land, and whose +age and founders seem destined ever to remain a mystery. A friend of +mine, a great antiquarian, and one deeply read in profane and sacred +history, used to delight in holding forth to me his speculations as to +their origin. His opinion was, that it must be erroneous to imagine that +these pyramids were the handiwork of the Israelites. In support of this +argument he quoted from many authorities, and amongst others from a +well-known traveller who saw at one place the people making bricks with +straw cut into small pieces, mingled with the clay to bind it. Hence it +is, that when villages built of this brick fall into decay, the roads are +full of small particles of straw, extremely offensive to the eyes in a +high wind. These persons were engaged, exactly as the Israelites used to +be, making bricks with straw, and for a similar purpose, viz„ to build +extensive granaries for the Pasha—“_treasure cities for Pharaoh_.” Hence +my friend argued that the Israelites laboured in making bricks, not in +hewing stones such as the pyramids are constructed with; but I do not +pretend to enter into any argument upon so learned and obscure a subject: +I certainly was surprised at the magnificence of their structure, and +often wondered within myself where the stones came from, by what means +they were transported, and by what now unknown force or lever such huge +blocks were raised up one above another, and so left a firm memento +through centuries, despite convulsions of the earth, to stand forth as +objects of surprise and admiration to the visitors of the present +generation. + +With regard to the climate of Egypt, I believe it to be as good as many +parts of Syria, though the heat is certainly more intense, and even I +myself suffered from languor and oppression; but then the mornings and +evenings fully recompense you for the sultrier heat of the day, and I +never recollect to have enjoyed a summer’s moonlight night more than I +did upon the Nile. The European residents in general enjoy excellent +health; and few that have resided there long would wish to change their +method of living, or the country they live in. + +In Cairo, the Consular Square contains many very handsome buildings, +inhabited principally by the consuls of various nations, and some of the +more wealthy European merchants. With my friend Mr. Walne, the British +Consul at Cairo, I have spent many a pleasant hour, and for his great +kindness and hospitality, I am glad to have an opportunity of thus +publicly thanking him. Mr. W. is the head of the Egyptian Society, who +have a very fine library, consisting chiefly of works relating to the +antiquities and country of Egypt. The valuable books contained in this +library are at all times, with perfect goodwill, placed at the disposal +of strangers; and I gratefully acknowledge having derived useful +information and amusement from the well-stocked shelves of this +institution. + +A great source of comfort to English families residing in Egypt, is the +punctual regularity with which the European mails arrive and depart; for, +besides meeting almost weekly with swarms of their countrymen and fair +countrywomen flocking to and from India, they have constantly fresh news +from home, and can, upon any great emergency, transport themselves from +the warm clime of Egypt to their own much-loved foggy island within the +fortnight. Besides this, they are continually receiving newspapers from +all parts of the world possessing the advantage over England of being +cognisant of Indian and Australian news a fortnight before such +intelligence could reach London; and this for merchants connected by +trade with both places, must naturally be of paramount importance. + +During winter, the Europeans at Cairo are much given to festivities; +dinner-parties and balls and soirées are then the order of the day, and +great good feeling exists amongst the residents. Even private +theatricals have been attempted; but it is during the Carnival that Cairo +resounds with merriment, and masques and grotesque-looking figures, with +torches and music, parade the streets from house to house till long after +midnight, few enjoying the fun better than the native Cairines +themselves. The gentlemen have shooting parties and coursing matches; +the ladies ride out in the environs; they have healthy exercise, good +houses, and the best of fare—all the productions of the East blended with +the luxuries imported from European markets; and in this respect, as well +as in conversing with and meeting more frequently ladies and gentlemen of +their own nation, the English at Cairo possess advantages over the +English in Syria. All the former have to complain of is the sultry heat +of the weather, whilst the latter are isolated, and bemoan their solitude +and the great lack of intelligent society. + +On leaving Egypt, I came back to England _viâ_ Marseilles. I had barely +arrived at this latter port before I again had the misfortune of coming +into contact with the gendarmes. On a former occasion, as the reader may +recollect, I got into a scrape by inadvertently emptying a basin of water +out of the hotel window over the head and shoulders of a fiery French +officer. This time I had brought with me a little parcel of tobacco, to +distribute amongst a few of my friends. They wanted to make out a case +of smuggling against me; but no sooner did I produce my passport, to shew +that I was attached to the Turkish embassy, than these officious +officials changed their conduct, and quite overpowered me with their +civilities. Truly Marseilles is an unlucky place for me. I here also +had a sample of the bad management of travelling in France. I took a +first-class ticket direct from Marseilles to Paris by diligence. On my +arrival at Lyons, I was told that I must remain until next morning, +unless I consented to travel in an inferior part of the carriage. This, +notwithstanding my urgent remonstrances, I was compelled to do, owing to +the necessity of my being in Paris by a certain date; and, though exposed +to many inconveniences, I was so fortunate as to arrive there in time. +My stay at Paris was limited to a few days, and I then came on to London +and delivered my despatches to his excellency our respected ambassador, +who immediately recognised me as one of his suite, and who has ever since +continued to treat me with the greatest urbanity. So soon as my official +duties permitted, I went the round of my kind friends in London, and +amongst others, was delighted to see the Honourable George Massey, my old +and well-tried friend, who insisted upon my taking up my abode at his +house, where I remain surrounded by every comfort and luxury that +kindness and forethought can provide, and happy in the enjoyment of the +society of a genuine English family. + +The handsome present of horses lately sent by Abbas Pasha to the Queen of +England, clearly testifies the good feeling existing between the two +governments, and how much the viceroy wishes to keep up those friendly +feelings so successfully cultivated and maintained. One of the horses +above alluded to is of the largest and most valuable and rare breed; and +there is little doubt but that the English nation will hereafter be +indebted to Abbas Pasha for the possession of a breed of horses now +unknown in England. The horses were sent to this country under the +charge of Nubar Bey, an Armenian, a native of Smyrna, a relative of +Boghas Bey, who is much esteemed by the Pasha and the Egyptians. He +received a first-rate education in Europe, and speaks several of its +languages with fluency; he accompanied Ibrahim Pasha on his visit to this +country a few years back as interpreter-secretary, and since that time +has visited several European courts on various diplomatic missions, and +now holds a high appointment under the Egyptian government. + +The grooms who accompanied these horses were much astonished on seeing +the Queen; they could not believe that so mild and gentle a lady could be +possessed of such power and influence over the whole world; they were +confident she must have a most clever magician in her employ, through +whose arts she had attained so elevated a rank, and won such a share of +their viceroy’s admiration. When they called to see me at +Cambridge-square, amongst other articles of furniture, etc., which +attracted their attention and admiration, was a little mantle-piece +ornament, representing the three graces, of exquisite workmanship; they +immediately set these down as household gods of the English, and it was +with difficulty I could convince them to the contrary, and assure them +that these, in common with many other nic-nacs, were simply used as +ornaments to the room. These poor fellows were very grateful for the +kindness shewn them by Mr. Massey and his family, who procured for them +tickets of admission to many of the most interesting sights in London; +and after partaking of his hospitality, they returned in a few days to +Egypt, begging me to assure my friend and his family that, if ever he +chanced to travel in Egypt, they hoped to have it in their power to shew +him the antiquities of that country; and, though they could not boast of +so magnificent a seraijah, or such furniture, or such sumptuous fare, +still a good pillaf, a chibuk of tobacco, and a finjan of coffee, should +be always at his disposal. Mr. Massey was much pleased at the simple +good nature of these people. Before taking leave, I asked them their +opinion of England and its people. They replied, both were wonderful; +but they still preferred their own native country. That the English +thought but of the present, and lived for this world alone; but that they +looked forward to a hereafter, in which they hoped to be amply +recompensed by all the sensual enjoyments a Mahomedan paradise promises +for the numerous mortifications now endured in the flesh. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. +VISITS TO LADY ROLLE AND TO BATH AND CHELTENHAM. + + +Engaged in completing my manuscript preparatory to publication, I had +devoted myself unweariedly to the task, and was about to correct the few +last pages, when I was hindered by an invitation to pay a visit at Bicton +in Devonshire, and there to recruit my health a little after my labour. +Having accepted it, I purpose, for the present, to give a short account +of my visit there; also to Bath and Cheltenham, which afforded me great +pleasure, and which I hope will interest my readers. + +Lady Rolle had kindly invited me to visit her at Merton, which invitation +I was very glad to accept; and I left London by an express train in full +anticipation of much enjoyment. I had often heard the gardens at Bicton +described as amongst the finest in this county; no pen, however, can do +justice to their attractions, and the loveliness of the surrounding +scenery, which burst forth in all the majesty of a warm spring day, +agreeably contrasting with the dark and murky atmosphere of London. + +The rapidity of travelling by an express train really seems magical. If +I were to write to my friends in the East and tell them I had travelled +about two hundred miles within five hours, they would at once come to the +conclusion that my head was turned like the unfortunate Druse Sheikh to +whom I have alluded before. An Indian friend who was residing with me +near a railway station, always compared the approach of the express train +to that of Satan himself, rushing through the land direct from the +infernal regions; a simile, according to my notions, not at all bad. + +As soon as I had arrived at Exeter, I found a fly waiting for me, when I +took my seat by the driver, preferring it to the closeness of an inside +seat. I observed a great number of boys who indulged in various remarks +concerning my beard, dress, etc., and frequently called after me “Kossoo! +Kossoo!” the meaning of which puzzled me not a little. I thought they +meant the discoverer of the plant of that name so lately recommended for +its medicinal properties, thinking they meant some allusion to my having +studied medicine. In my perplexity I asked the driver for an +explanation. “Why, maister, you sees they’ve never afore seed any +foreign gentlemen like yourself, but that ’ere one they calls Kossoo, so +they ’sposes you be he.” The subsequent conversation between the driver +and myself turned upon Kossuth’s merits. On my asking him if he had ever +seen the Hungarian governor, “No, maister, I wishes I could send such +publican foreigners into the sea instead of having them in our country.” +I told him that this is not the way in which we treat foreigners in our +country, he replied, “You be come from the Holy Land which be’ant our +country.” + +After a beautiful drive we arrived at the park-gates, where I was +welcomed by the presence of a herd of beautiful deer, who seemingly were +as inquisitive as human beings, they would not, however, permit me to +approach them, but bounded gracefully away, thinking no doubt that so +strange a looking being as myself should be first acknowledged and +welcomed by their fair owner ere they would deign to become familiar with +me. On arriving within sight of the mansion, I was struck with its fine +appearance and noble proportions, and scarcely believed that any private +individual could be the possessor of such a magnificent residence, which +resembled more a royal palace than a country-seat of an English nobleman. +I charged the driver with bringing me to a wrong place, but he resolutely +persisted in affirming that this was the seat of Lady Rolle. On my +arrival, a great many houris simultaneously appeared at the window, with +what seemed to me to be wands; but soon the truth flashed upon me, and I +discovered that the houris which my imagination had conjured up, were no +other than Lady Rolle and her fair guests, who were amusing themselves +with a game of billiards. The noble mistress of the mansion immediately +introduced me to a large assemblage of wit, beauty, and fashion. + +It would be difficult to describe the various charms of this truly +magnificent seat, placed in the midst of scenery of the most enchanting +loveliness. The noble park in which it stands studded with giant trees, +that appear to be the children of centuries, spreads over a wide extent, +and presents the most pleasing variety. The grounds which more +immediately surround it are beautifully laid out, and in their taste and +arrangement reflect the character of its noble mistress. The mansion +itself is placed on the crest of a gentle hill; the splendour, the +comfort, the hospitality, which are to be met with within its walls, +formed altogether a scene well calculated to strike and astonish the +Eastern pilgrim, who for the first time beheld it. Day by day, as the +place grew more familiar, new treasures would rise upon my bewildered and +wondering eyes. In the grounds there is a beautiful arboretum, which I +believe contains every specimen of tree likely to reward the trouble of +cultivation, and arranged with regard to its botanical classification. +The various green-houses and hot-houses filled with the choicest flowers +and fruits of tropical climates, delight the eye and inform the mind; +and, thanks to the presiding care that overlooks and regulates the whole, +all in the highest state of cultivation. Here, in the compass of a few +miles, and belonging to one possessor, the plants and shrubs of the most +distant countries (among others I noticed the coffee and banana) are +brought together, and under the fostering care of art and intelligence, +made to live and flourish in the greatest luxuriance. Among the +numberless things which won my admiration, I will add the mention of a +lofty tower which is built in one part of the grounds, and which is +reached by a pretty drive through a wood of pine, and from whose top a +view of the most magnificent kind presents itself, of hill and dale, wood +and meadow; and a little distance, bounding the prospect at one point, +the blue sea may be seen, adding another beauty to the landscape. + +Never, in short, have I seen anything to rival this lovely human +paradise, though I have had the pleasure of travelling through many +English counties. I must leave my kind and indulgent reader to draw +largely on his imaginative powers, and in thought translate himself to +some fairy land, where nature’s beauties revel and disport in all their +glory, and exhibit to the view of the entranced beholders all that is +grand, beautiful, and ennobling. At Bicton time sped rapidly on, as time +always will speed when spent in such charming and agreeable society. Our +usual daily routine was prayers at half-past eight A.M., at which all the +guests and servants attended, when her ladyship read the prayers herself. +What an example thought I to thousands of the aristocracy of Europe! +After prayers we repaired to the breakfast parlour, where a sumptuous +repast was always provided. After the meal, the company separated into +different parties—some for a drive, some for a walk, whilst others went +shooting or fishing. At one, all usually re-assembled and partook of an +excellent lunch; afterwards, there were billiards, bagatelle, and books; +in short, each did as he thought fit. We dined, and after that there was +abundance of amusement; in the evening, the ladies delighted us by +playing and singing. + +Towards the close of my visit, I may inform the reader that my own stock +of amusements were varied (I am happy to say that it was towards the end +of my stay), by the discovery that two of her ladyship’s guests, Mr. P--- +and Mr. W---, were skilful with their pencils, and insisted upon handing +me down to posterity in their sketch-books, so that I was suddenly +assailed right and left (I think it must have been a concerted plan +between them for their mutual convenience), which kept me pretty quiet in +attendance to be sure—to their ease and my dis-ease. Mr. W---, not +content with conferring on me the above advantage, insists on the further +distinction of hanging me up at the exhibition—a sentence which I really +believe he will carry into execution. + +The time thus passed pleasantly away, and the recollection of these +delightful hours will always be vividly engraven on my mind. Amongst the +performers on the piano was one who, _par excellence_, was divine: this +was a Miss W---. We often had a round game invented by Mr. P---. +Something similar to “My Lady’s Toilet,” only more refined. + +Lady Rolle kindly introduced me, during my residence at her abode, to a +Mrs. P--- of Exeter, with whom I had a long conversation respecting the +Greek church and the state of female education in Syria. I have heard +that her daughters often visited the poor cottagers, with a view to +improve and ameliorate their condition, a custom I am happy to find +becoming very prevalent among the upper classes in England during the +last few years. I wish some philanthropic young ladies would follow +their good example, and make a step still further by setting out on a +crusade against the ignorance of their sex in Syria. + +On the grounds attached to the mansion, my hostess has built a very +beautiful tower filled with valuable and rare samples of china; it +resembles an Indian pagoda. This amiable lady has also built a very fine +church in memory of her husband, and also a mausoleum. But what +surprised me still more was to find a cottage on her grounds which was +paved entirely with sheep’s knucklebones—a novel spectacle to me, and +very ingenious and curious. + +Whilst at Bicton, I heard a very amusing anecdote about an Eastern +princess, who it appears had come there on a visit from London, and was +much noticed by the nobility. This lady was very fond of vegetables and +fruit, and in order the more freely to gratify her appetite, she used to +rise early and go into the garden, and amongst other delicacies, she +never spared the young onions, of which she was exceedingly fond. The +gardener could not account for the depredations committed on his +_potager_ till accident led him to discover the mystery. One day he +locked the gate before the princess returned from her morning walk, and +consequently she remained there some considerable time, and had to +breakfast and dine off her favourite vegetables. At length, after a long +search, the gardener heard her crying out, and accordingly released her. + +One day during this agreeable visit was devoted to a drive to Exeter to +see the cathedral, gaol, and hospital, with which I was much interested. +I must here bestow a passing note of admiration on her ladyship’s +“turnout,” which conveyed us to the town: suffice it to say that it was +appointed in the best English style, and with four fine horses of +imposing stature, with their gay silver trappings and postillions, made +an excellent _coup d’œil_. With the architecture of the cathedral I was +particularly struck, on account of its resemblance to the old churches in +Syria. I much admired the small paintings in fresco underneath the +organ, which I was told had only recently been discovered, and these were +very similar to those in our churches throughout my country, and which +may be seen at the present day. After having inspected the cathedral, I +visited the gaol, which pleased me from being kept so scrupulously clean; +and I highly approved of the regulations and rules which were laid down +and enforced. But one circumstance in particular pained me very much, +that was to find a child only eight years of age imprisoned for arson. I +was told that he was much happier in gaol than at home. Before leaving I +visited the female department, which was equally clean and well arranged, +and all the women were usefully occupied. Upon enquiring of the governor +of the gaol whether the female prisoners gave him much trouble, his +answer was, “I would rather have to do with a dozen men than one woman.” +This speech rather startled me, and, as it was time to return to Bicton, +I left Exeter, having been highly gratified and pleased with my visit. +During my stay in the neighbourhood, as we proceeded though the village, +many and very amusing conjectures were made concerning my country and +station. By some I was considered no less a personage than a Persian +prince; others deemed me a Turkish Pasha, whilst many even exalted me so +high as to be somewhat of more importance—an Indian Rajah. Soon after, I +bade adieu to Bicton, but not without deep regret and sorrow at leaving +our amiable and hospitable friend and her assembled guests. + +From Bicton I proceeded to Bath. It was about mid-day when I started; +the weather was lovely, and forcibly brought to my mind the contrast +between the murky and ungenial atmosphere which pervaded London when I +left it, and the bright clear air of this favoured portion of England. +Could my readers, who spend so much of their time in the metropolis, have +felt as I did on this morning, when the sweet breeze, wafting the odours +of the fresh-turned earth, seemed to breathe health upon the cheek, and +purity and peace into the heart, they could never again declare that the +country possessed no charms. Contemplate but the rising of day’s bright +luminary, which in the west of England is especially glorious, making its +appearance as it does from behind lofty and undulating lines of hills, +overlooking the loveliest of valleys, which must in spring present more +the appearance of a Syrian glen than anything I have hitherto seen. The +verdant moss, the delicate white violet, and the modest primrose, which +hid their loveliness beneath a variety of trees, and amongst them the +first that puts forth its blossoms is the sallow, whose yellow downy buds +emit a honeyed odour, all combine to constitute this beautiful part of +England a very Garden of Eden in which an humble mind might dwell for +ever. + +The impression produced on my mind by these scenes, was very similar to +that which so painfully affects the Swiss, when in a foreign country he +is reminded of his wild and mountainous home. I felt all the sensations +of the indescribable “mal de pays.” + +But I must proceed on my journey. I entered the railway carriage, and +quick as lightning sped from all those who had shewn me so much kindness +and attention, and to whom I shall often travel back in thought to dwell +with grateful satisfaction and delight on this happy period of my life. +Should any of my readers, who have not yet visited Bath, have occasion +hereafter to do so, they will not fail, as I was, to be struck with the +picturesque appearance which meets the eye just before arriving at this +beautiful city; the numerous pretty meadows—the spires of churches rising +here and there to remind the beholder that he is in a Christian +country—richly cultivated pleasure grounds surrounding neat villas—the +village inn and its busy scene—carriages, omnibuses, and vehicles of +every description, travelling in all directions, giving to this fair city +of the west a miniature resemblance to the mighty metropolis in a far +more agreeable sense. + +But now the engine begins to slacken its pace; the shrill whistle sounds, +and the heavy train, though seeming to grow tired yet reluctant to rest, +arrives at the terminus. All now is hurry and bustle; friends, parents, +assistants, are on the platform, eager to welcome or render their aid, as +the case may be, yet provokingly kept back by the railings, which are +pertinaciously kept for a while closed. At last all are free; and Bath, +that elegant city, with its beautiful surrounding hills, and dazzling +white houses, and decorated architectural public buildings, now bursts +upon the view; the smoke curling upwards towards the clear atmosphere, +dispersing ere it reaches the azure sky. The mildness of the climate +surprised me, and particularly the warm mineral springs. There is an +idea prevalent in Syria, that England being an island, there are no +springs, that all the streams are brackish, and that the inhabitants are +supplied with drinking-water from the clouds. On my first arrival in +this country, seeing wine so plentiful and water so scarce at meals, I +was inclined to believe that the supposition was a true one. + +Arriving at Bath, I immediately proceeded to the house of my valued and +excellent friend, Sir Claude Wade, whose services in India will +deservedly hand his name down to future generations as a distinguished +character in the annals of European history. The following day after my +arrival was devoted to making a tour of the city, in the course of which +I saw the Royal Crescent, one of the finest piles of architecture I ever +beheld, commanding quite a panoramic view of the surrounding country; I +also walked through the Victoria Park, and examined the column erected in +commemoration of the Queen’s visit to Bath in 1839. The inhabitants +express their regret that their sovereign has not since favoured their +fine city with her beloved presence. The rides and promenades in and +about the city are very pleasant and delightful, reminding one so much of +the _agréments_ of a foreign town, that I am surprised it should not be +more generally visited by the English fashionables, instead of going +abroad to spend their money. + +I found that the society here is on a very pleasant footing, and their +genuine hospitality and kindness to me I shall remember with gratitude. +Here, as well as elsewhere, there exists a great diversity of religious +opinion. At one place I was asked whether I attended the High or Low +Church, and imagining, at first, that they alluded to an upper or a lower +part of the building, I replied that I preferred the body of the church, +as I did not like mounting stairs. My answer afforded much amusement; +but on discovering what was really intended by the question, I was too +much occupied with thinking about the divisions amongst professing +Christians to heed the smiles which I had caused. + +On Sunday I attended the Octagon Chapel, to hear a celebrated young +preacher, and was handed by the pew-opener into a seat where there was a +charming lady, who shewed me every attention, and even gave me her own +book with the different parts of the service marked. I was most sensible +of her civility, and thanked her for her kindness, which she politely but +distantly acknowledged. The next day, I went with my friends to Mrs. +F---’s soirée, in the Circus, where, to my surprise and pleasure, I again +met this houri, when we soon got into conversation. She told me how +astonished she was when she heard a “Turk” read and sing, etc.; she asked +me many questions regarding my opinion of England and English customs, +etc., and particularly what were my first impressions on hearing the +vocal music of this country. I candidly said, that it seemed to me like +the howlings of my own countrymen over the bodies of departed friends; I +added, however, that in my case the old proverb “use is second nature,” +had proved true, for now that I had become accustomed to it, the vocal as +well as instrumental music of this country possessed great charms for me, +especially since I have heard the enchanting voice of Miss S---, whom I +met at Mrs. B---’s. This has effected a total change in my opinions; and +if I were now asked the same question, remembering these sweet sounds I +allude to, I should compare hers, at least, to the song of the Bulbul. +My fair questioner was highly amused at my description of “first +impressions” on this subject, from which we diverged into other matters +of conversation; and I finally left my kind entertainer’s house with an +impression of her hospitality, and of the fair community of Bath, more +agreeable than were my first impressions of English music, and certainly +not so likely to be changed. I desire also publicly to thank the +inhabitants of Bath generally, as well as the municipal authorities of +the city, for the practical kindness I experienced from them during my +visit. + +As I am on the subject of Bath, I may as well mention my last visit to +that gay and delightful city, in the course of which a grand ball was +given by the bachelors to their friends. I was kindly invited to it by +Mr. Nugent, whose zeal and activity in promoting the harmless gaieties of +the place are the theme of praise with every one, and of whose polite +attention to strangers I cannot speak too highly. Nothing that money and +taste could effect was spared to make the ball one of the most brilliant +and magnificent entertainments that I have witnessed in this country. +The Rooms were celebrated, I hear, in former times as the scene where +many a fair houri made her _début_ in the fashionable world, and were +decorated in a style of elegance which reflected the greatest credit on +the artists. I can only say, that whatever may have been their by-gone +attractions, it is impossible that the display of bright eyes and +graceful forms could ever have surpassed what I gazed upon that night. +To attempt to describe this fairy scene would require the pen of a poet, +that I might give adequate expression to my admiration of the beauty by +which I was surrounded. I will quote, however, a passage from an Eastern +author, which I think apropos to the occasion:— + +“Their beauty is perfection, they are loveliness itself; their elegant +shapes glance like javelins by moonlight; their tresses float down their +backs like the tendrils of the grape; they are slayers and piercers with +their arrows and their darts; archers and strikers, the enchantresses of +the _minds and hearts_ of men.” + +While at Bath I also had the pleasure of attending another splendid ball, +given at the Guildhall by the Mayoress, Mrs. Allen, at which the _élite_ +of society there were present. The amiable hostess and her lord received +their guests with great kindness and affability, evincing a desire to +please, which completely succeeded, for every one seemed to enjoy the +dancing exceedingly, as well as the sumptuous supper. The Mayoress’ +health was proposed in a suitable manner by the Marquis of Thomond, which +was drunk with all the honours in sparkling champagne. During the +evening, I was observing a Masonic symbol suspended over the insignia of +the Mayor’s office, which led a gentleman, who was standing by, to +recognise me as a brother mason. He at once introduced me to several of +the brethren, and a few days afterwards I was invited by “the Lodge of +Honour,” at Bath, to meet the Mayor at dinner, where we had “the feast of +reason and the flow of soul?” + +I shall always retain a lively recollection of the pleasure which they +afforded me, and the kindness I experienced. Whilst walking out one day +I encountered my friend, Dr. Thompson, whom I had known in Syria, and who +hailed me in Arabic, in the words of an old Eastern proverb, viz., _that +though mountains never meet_, _the sons of Eve will_. Dr. Thompson, at +my request, gave two lectures, one at Cheltenham and one at Bath, the +notice of which I think worthy of being inserted, {210} and I now beg to +thank him for the interest he takes in the affairs of my country. + + + +VISIT TO CHELTENHAM. + + +From Bath I went to the above place, and during my stay I took up my +quarters at the Plough Hotel, where I was most comfortable, and received +every attention from the proprietor. + +I should be unmindful, and thankless indeed, were I to forget to express +my grateful thanks to friends generally for the kind reception given me, +and for the interest evinced on behalf of my beloved country, and I shall +ever retain a lively remembrance of the Rev. J. Brown, Incumbent of +Trinity Church. Wherever he is known, the deepest respect and regard are +evinced towards him and his family. Oh, would that poor Syria were +blessed with a few such philanthropic men with hearts and minds so +capable of diffusing wisdom and knowledge wherever they go. + +I shall never forget the brief address delivered by this kind-hearted +man, at a lecture given by Dr. Thompson, on behalf of female education in +the East. In a few words he expressed all the wants of my country, which +went home to my heart. I trust that the interest shewn by all on this +exciting occasion may be the means of benefiting neglected Syria, and of +promoting the interest of her benighted children, as regards educational +institutions. I must also here record my sincere gratitude to the Rev. +C. H. Bromby, M.A., the principal of the Normal Training College. How +well, and how admirably this noble school is managed! How suitable it +would be to the children of Syria! + +The few sentences I addressed to the meeting at Cheltenham, were +expressive of my hope that they would enable me to send over for a few +young Syrians of both sexes, to participate in the benefits of their +college; and that it was my firm conviction the period was not far off +when this institution would embrace a more extensive field of usefulness, +and become the means of introducing Gospel truth and its accompanying +blessings to my much loved Lebanon. Then shall the Cedar once again and +for ever flourish in its native soil, spreading its luxuriant branches to +shield the Thistle from all rude assaults—which may then grope even in +its own humble way to thrive, and flourish, and raise its crowned head. + +Visitors to Cheltenham cannot but feel deeply indebted to Lord Northwick, +for his liberality in admitting them to his interesting and unique +collection of paintings. I was much gratified at the privilege thus +afforded me; and it is due to his Lordship to say that the arrangement of +the valuable paintings is exceedingly good. Both myself and a friend, +who accompanied me, were much surprised on our entrance at the extent and +magnificence of the apartments, especially the modern room called the +_Pantheon_; we much admired the painting of the Earl of Surrey, by +Titian, and were struck with its Oriental caste of features and +complexion, which called to memory some one with whom we were mutually +acquainted in Syria. Our attention was next directed to the portrait of +Mahomet II., and if I may judge from the engravings of this Sultan, which +I have seen in the houses of some of the nobility of Turkey (before the +strict prohibition of the Koran on this head), this picture is an +admirable likeness of him. We are told that it was expressly painted by +the artist in deference to the wishes of the Venetians, who sent Bellini +to Constantinople in the year 1458 for this purpose. + +The Flight into Egypt is another fine specimen of painting, and though of +modern date delineates Oriental travelling; the face of the Virgin is +exquisitely beautiful, and has a heavenly expression; this figure +forcibly brought before me the Countess of K---, whom I had met on the +day preceding my visit to this place. I would gladly have spent days +instead of hours in this delightful residence, ornamented with such +valuable and beautiful specimens of the fine arts; those only who come +from distant lands, can fully appreciate the luxuries of all kinds which +meet the eye of the spectator when in Western Europe, and especially in +Great Britain. The magnificence which I encounter on all sides makes a +sadness steal over me; and I cannot but lament for the barrenness of my +native land, which once teemed with works, both of art and science. “How +are the mighty fallen!” But hope shall shine in the Eastern skies, and +the bright morning star arise again. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. +IMPRESSIONS OF ENGLAND. + + +Many of my fair friends have been exceedingly anxious for me to give them +my first impressions of England. After so long a residence in the +country, I must confess my habits have become completely Anglicised; I +have, however, the pleasure of offering them a translation of portions of +some letters written to a friend at Constantinople during my first visit +to England:— + + * * * * * + +“You asked me, before leaving Stamboul, to convey to you as well as I +could by letter my first impressions of England and the English. Your +Excellency can hardly conceive the difficulty of the task which you have +allotted me. However arduous the undertaking may be, I shall endeavour, +to the best of my poor abilities, to satisfy your curiosity, and fulfil +my rash promise. In our own dear village, and indeed in the most active +and bustling towns of Syria, the silence and monotony of the houses are +only occasionally broken in upon by the busy hum of human voices—the +clattering hoofs of horses and mules—the braying of donkeys, and the +merry tinkling bell of the caravan. The sweet song of the bulbul and +other summer birds, with the buzzing of the honey-bee, are the familiar +sounds to which we are from our infancy accustomed. Stately forest +trees—mountains and hills—valleys and dales—citron groves and +orchards—the bright plumage of birds and the painted wings of butterflies +are the every-day pictures, furnished by the hand of nature, and on which +alone our eyes have been content to dwell. The sound of chariot wheels +has through centuries been hushed and sunk into oblivion, together with +the fiery-spirited warriors that guided them. Such is the quiet state of +affairs in our own loved country of Syria. Now, therefore, imagine +yourself blindfolded and transported as though by magic into the very +centre of the city of London. + +“Previously, however, a vast extent of ocean has to be traversed, which +is accomplished in an incredibly short space of time, during which period +much suffering from sea-sickness is to be expected, and many are +compelled to keep to their cabins, creeping only upon deck occasionally +to cheer the heart with a distant glimpse of land, as Malta and Gibraltar +have appeared to view, and as speedily vanished from sight, leaving, like +the false mirage, no trace behind. At last the shores of _Ingleterra_ +are discerned. The announcement is heard with indescribable delight, for +the term of purgatory is about to expire. Well wrapped in a _burnoos_, +for, although midsummer, the air is keen, you scramble upon deck, and +being comfortably seated, take a first survey of the famed shores of +Britain. As far as the eye can stretch, the whole land appears to be +what is really the case, in a high state of cultivation. Houses and +windmills innumerable meet the view, and a vast number of smoking +minarets, which on inquiry prove to be the chimneys of countless +factories. But you are not left long to consider these matters—what is +occurring in the more immediate vicinity of the steamer rivets your +attention. Thousands of vessels of all sizes, shapes, and nations, are +moving up and down the channel. Gigantic men-of-war steamers—still +larger mail-packets, ships-of-the-line, frigates, sloops, gun-brigs, +Indiamen, schooners, barks, boats, all puffing and sailing, pitching and +rolling, and getting entangled with one another in the most alarming +manner. Frenchmen shouting and screaming to fishing-boats—Italians +stamping at pilots—Greeks throwing their red caps overboard, pulling +their hair in despair at not being able to make themselves understood. +In short, the confusion of this Babel of tongues is so great that you +stand and look on stupified and bewildered with amazement, and so +overcome with alarm and the novelty of the thing, that you have ceased to +watch the ship’s progress till the anchor is down, and you find yourself +in the custom-house surrounded by boxes and inquisitive people, whilst +thunder seems to be rolling along the streets outside. + +“A kind friend passes your luggage through the custom-house and hurries +you into a cab, so imbecile and helpless have you become. If you had +eyes all around your head, they would not suffice to look at the people +and the sights in the streets. Thousands of people are pushing and +running, and shouting and walking, in every direction; hundreds of +carriages, three and four abreast, blocking up every thoroughfare. Now +come waggons and carts of every description, omnibuses innumerable, and +cabs; all these being the _arabaz_, or wheeled conveyances, varying in +size, shape and colour, the number of wheels on which they move, and the +number of horses by which they are drawn; some conveying mountains of +bale goods, others laden with beer-barrels, whilst some are exclusively +for the use of passengers. The noise created by these numerous vehicles +jolting over the hard roads is greater than the roar of the Sultan’s +artillery. What are all these people come out to see;—is your first +natural inquiry. Is there a fire, or has there been an earthquake, or +are all the suburban villages and towns pouring in their multitudes to +witness some grand spectacle? You are inclined to doubt your friend when +he tells you that this is an every-day occurrence in London; but +experience proves him to be correct. _Wallah yar effendem_. If Stamboul +were in flames, and all the Sultan’s harem burning, there could not be a +greater concourse of people than may every day be encountered, between +the hours of three and five, in one single street of London, and all the +other hundred streets are almost equally well filled. Men, women, and +children, all busy, all intent on some errand or occupation. Perhaps +few, if any, of the vast crowd you encounter have come out simply for air +and exercise. The reason for all this is, that London is a very dear +city, talent plentiful, occupation scarce, so that every one is obliged +to depend upon his own individual active exertions to enable him to +procure even a crumb of bread. _Inshallah Būkera_ (to-morrow, please +God) is a phrase wholly disregarded in England, and not to be found in an +Englishman’s vocabulary. If you were to put off till to-morrow what +might be done to-day, you would find yourself a beggar. + +“The English run a race with time; and though they cannot catch and +overtake him, they keep close upon his heels. An old merchant dies at +eighty, who, from the age of eleven or twelve, has been hard at work six +days in every week from ten in the morning till four in the evening, +amassing wealth, leaving riches, a good name, and a vast inheritance +behind him. That man has made more use of his time than five hundred of +the most active of our countrymen; and there are a thousand instances of +such as these to be met with in the city. + +“But whilst we have been thinking about this, the cab stops opposite to a +splendid _seraiyah_, a veritable palace. You image that this must be the +Queen’s residence, and begin to expostulate with your friend for ushering +you into the presence of royalty before you have had time to pay some +attention to your toilet; he laughs at your ignorance. Two gentlemen, +handsomely dressed and without hats, rush into the street and officiously +carry in your luggage. You are quite shocked to see the nobility thus +debased, and struggle with them to relieve them of their burden. The +friend again interferes, and you find to your amazement, that the palace +is nothing more than a large _khan_ for the accommodation of wealthy +travellers, and that the two gentlemanly-looking men are _khudâmeen_, and +that there are at least a dozen more, all in the same capacity, all as +well dressed and as good-looking. You are then ushered into a room +splendidly furnished; mirrors and chandeliers, tables and chairs, +pictures and divans, all in profusion, and the commonest article in the +room worth at least one thousand piastres. Your friend touches a spring, +a bell rings in the distance, the door opens, and a _houri_ enters. This +must be the lady of the palace; but she is young and tender as a dove, +and blushes like the rose of Damascus in acknowledging your _salams_. +Alas! even this beautiful creature is one of the _khudâmeen_, and you +sigh to hear your friend order her to bring up the scuttle of coals, +whose black dust cannot but soil her snowy and tapering fingers. It +takes you a good week to settle down into anything like peace and +comfort, or to get accustomed to the ways of the place and the hours for +eating and sleeping. It takes you a month to reconcile yourself to the +perpetual roaring and din in the streets, occasioned by the countless +vehicles passing and repassing in the streets. + +“At last, however, you feel tired of being shut up alone, and ordering a +carriage, step into it, and bid the driver take you to one of the +fashionable drives. You go on at a rapid pace for a few hundred yards, +and then there is a dead halt; vexed at this, you stand up in the +carriage to endeavour to discover the cause, and then a sight meets the +view quite sufficient to paralyse a stranger. In front, as far as the +sight can reach, and behind, as far as the eye can see, as well as on +either side of you, is one dense forest of human beings, horses, donkeys, +carts, carriages, waggons, chimney-sweeps. Officers, lords and ladies, +policemen and rabble. You move slowly along as though you were in a +funeral procession, until a favourable opportunity presents itself for +the coachman to display his skill, and then he dashes at full speed +through carriages, and carts, so close together that none but his +experienced eye could ever have imagined it possible to squeeze one’s way +through uninjured. Expecting every instant to be crushed to death, you +throw yourself back in the carriage, and shut your eyes on what was too +fearful to look upon. By-and-by the easier motion of the carriage +re-assures you—you look up, you have been disentangled from the dense +crowd, and are driving along in comparative solitude through street after +street of magnificent palaces. By-and-by, you pass through a square, and +the verdure of a few trees comes like a refreshing shower to the seared +up heart, and recalls to mind the lovely home of our ancestors in +Lebanon. After awhile, we emerge from the turmoil and smoke, and dust of +the city; and lo! before you, a magnificent garden—such a one as the +Pacha of Damascus would be proud of. Real, fine, stately trees, and +plenty of grass—plots of flowers—and imitation rivers and lakes, covered +too with wild ducks, and geese, and numberless other water fowl, now +become so domesticated, however, that you see them running out of the +water at the approach of little children who carry baskets full of crumbs +to feed them with. + +“Here, in roads railed off, the fashionable world drive and ride about +for a few hours every evening in the season. A carriage passes with two +_houris_ in it, whose faces leave an impression on your heart, which +latter is as susceptible as wax. Another carriage, and two still more +beautiful—a few minutes afterwards three pass at the same moment, with +such eyes that the glances from them emit brilliant sparks of love; but +there is no end to the _houris_ and no end to the heart-aches, so we bid +the driver speed home again, and close our eyes, firmly determined not to +be exposed to any fresh onslaught from these _houris_—these daughters of +the finest people in the world. Arrived at home, dinner is served in +magnificent style. The silver dishes, and the knives and forks—the +spoons, etc., would alone suffice to purchase a property in Lebanon that +would yield you or me a comfortable revenue for life; and as the thought +strikes me, I sicken at the waste and splendour whilst millions are +starving in the world; and though the dishes are excellent and rare, and +well chosen, I would willingly resign them all for one good Syrian +_pillaf_, and the pleasure of a _chibuk_, and a few minutes’ chat with +your Excellency. + +“Nothing is more difficult than for a stranger to form acquaintances in +London, unless he is furnished with good letters of introduction, or +holds an official position. In the latter case, his rank at once +entitles him to the _entrée_ of a certain circle of society. Being the +guest of a nobleman or some notable man, is a passport into the society +of his list of acquaintances; and once having been introduced, your +number of friends is rapidly augmented. Thus, supposing I dine at Mr. +P---’s to-day, there, amongst others, I meet Mr. W---. This gentleman +invites me to his house, and there I find an entirely new set, who, in +their turn, again introduce me to their friends and acquaintances. +English ladies are the stars of English society. The married and elder +ladies I may term the planets; their destinies are fixed, and they are +placed in one particular position for life; but true to this theory, like +planets, they emit a steady light; their language is refined, their +manners fascinating, their bearing commanding respect, their conversation +agreeable and instructive, and their wit brilliant and full of point. +The young ladies are the satellites that revolve round these planets, +more brilliant in the pride of youth and beauty, more active, and much +gayer; their hearts would hardly counterbalance a feather. Poor doves! +affliction and the trials of life have as yet no stamp on the soft +waxwork texture of their sensitive affections; they talk and laugh, and +ride and dance with young men without the least restraint, and the voice +of calumny is never heard. How different from our poor, ignorant +countrymen! What would all the old men and women of Lebanon say, if +their daughters and granddaughters were seen taking long solitary rides +and walks with the young men? With us, in the present uncivilized state +of affairs, such liberties would be highly improper; but it is vastly +different in England and Europe, where men and women are, from early +childhood, educated with the strictest attention to morality as well as +accomplishments. Girls of fifteen have sufficient confidence in their +own strength of mind, and in the integrity and high honour of those with +whom they associate, ever to feel embarrassed in the society of young +men, though these young men be comparative strangers; they know +themselves to be ladies, and that their associates are gentlemen; and in +England these two words comprise everything that is virtuous and +honourable. + +“The smallest deviation from the rigid path of religious virtue or +worldly honour is visited with the severest penalty, and the delinquent +is irrevocably lost, and for ever excluded from the pale of society. +With such a punishment hanging over their heads, apart from the natural +instinct to virtue, a _faux-pas_ is rare indeed amongst the highest +classes of society. + +“Ladies are the leading features; many of them are renowned for great +literary acquirements; most are accomplished; and the highest honours are +inwardly awarded them by the opposite sex. If a lady enters a room, all +the gentlemen rise from their seats, nor will they be seated again until +she has chosen one for herself. If a lady drops a handkerchief, the men +all rush to pick it up, so as to save her the trouble of stooping; when +she speaks, all are attentive; and when she sings and plays, the whole +company are hushed into such profound silence, that you might hear a pin +drop. + +“When dinner, supper, or whatever the repast may be, is announced, the +master of the house leads out the lady highest in rank present, the +others being handed out by respective gentlemen; the lady of the house +remaining till the last, when she is conducted to the refreshment-room by +the gentleman of the highest rank present. In England men and women +usually wear no covering on the head whilst in-doors, with the exception, +however, of _matrons_, who wear caps made of some elegant lace material, +and _widows_ who, according to custom, put on _weeds_ for a certain +period after the husband’s decease. _Weeds_ means a peculiar cap, +composed of white muslin, in shape both ugly and unbecoming. +Notwithstanding this, my friend Mrs. ---, who is a widow ever looks +charming and beautiful. But to return to the dinner; when it is +finished, the ladies at a given sign from the mistress of the house, rise +and leave the table. The gentlemen remain seated for about half-an-hour +longer, during which interval they sip their wine, eat fruit, and +converse. In England they offer wine and meat in abundance, but _water_ +and _bread_ is but scantily supplied. No smoking is allowed within +doors, nor is it genteel to smoke in the streets—or even to smell of +smoke when you enter the society of ladies; in fact they smell it as +quickly as the gazelle does the hunter. Gentlemen who are fond of +tobacco, have regular smoking rooms, or go to their clubs to indulge in a +cigar; but the majority eschew smoking altogether. Our nation labours +under a very false impression in supposing that the English are a people +with very few ideas of religion; and in imagining that because they do +not observe fasts and festivals, and cross themselves, they are almost +worse than infidels. In no country is the Sabbath more strictly or +rigorously regarded than in England. Not only are the shops and places +of public entertainment closed on that holy day, but in some families in +England even cooking is not allowed. The churches and chapels are +literally crowded with well-dressed men and women twice a day. And there +are many families that attend Divine service once or twice a week. +Besides this, they support many splendid charitable institutions, +hospitals for the sick and maimed, poor-houses for the paupers, +foundlings for the unfortunate, and in fact, have institutions for the +relief of every description of disease and infirmity to which human +nature is subject. Nor must I omit to mention the public schools, and +colleges for children of both sexes, where thousands are clothed, housed, +fed and educated at the public expense, and where they will receive +instruction that will fit them for any sphere; besides these, there are +also innumerable private charities, and Her Majesty the Queen herself, +takes the lead in distributing large bounties annually in the cold winter +time—fuel, clothing, blankets, and many other requisites to the +friendless and needy. Nor is it only for the temporal welfare of others +that they exert themselves. Missionary establishments are supported by +voluntary contributions, and the annual revenue or income of these +institutions, consisting of millions of piastres, is expended in +supporting missionaries and schools at home and abroad. Ladies and +gentlemen who die worth immense fortunes, leaving no heirs to inherit, +bequeath the bulk of their fortunes towards the furtherance of charitable +objects. + +“There are merchants in London, and in some of the other principal towns +in Great Britain, who are in possession of princely fortunes, and they +always go on augmenting their wealth by any feasible scheme for the +improvement of commerce—such as the laying on of a new line of steamers, +or the construction of railroads. Schemes that require millions of money +as a first outlay, and before any profits can be hoped to be realised, +are discussed with the utmost _sang-froid_ by the merchants _on Change_, +that is, at a large elegant building, set aside and built expressly for +merchants to congregate and transact business. If the scheme is approved +of to-day by a number of leading merchants, and the sum requisite be five +millions sterling, by this day fortnight, at latest, the money is +contributed and safely lodged in the banker’s hands. Such, _Mashallah_! +is the expeditious method adopted by English merchants, the richest +commoners of the richest kingdom in the world. + +“The fashionable world of London has fashionable hours for everything. +Ladies sometimes do not get up before mid-day, and then usually breakfast +in their private apartments, and not unfrequently in bed. The afternoon +is the fashionable time for receiving visits; they dine when, in our +country, people are thinking of going to bed; and this is not all, for, +by the time that the son of Lebanon’s first refreshing siesta may be said +to be over, these people are thinking about amusing themselves for the +night. At about ten o’clock, fashionable evening parties commence. Some +people are invited to four or five of these in the same evening, and they +may perhaps go to all, remaining but a few minutes at each. Ladies and +gentlemen dance till past midnight. Bands of delightful music are +playing; the rooms are arranged like fairy land; the girls are so +beautiful, and dressed so elegantly, that the whole scene is like a +realisation of the fabulous tales of the Arabian Nights. Then there is +also the opera, where professional singers and dancers are employed; and +the magnificence with which the stage is decorated, the lights, the +music, the dancing—so airy that the girls barely touch the ground with +their toes. All is as a scene of magical enchantment, till the curtain +drops amidst thunders of applause, and you are led out by your friends in +a state of mental aberration. The next morning you awake, and look over +your last night’s expenditure, and you find a few such items as the +following:— + + + + £ s. d. Piastres. +Grapes (ten paras’ worth in 0 10 0 = 55 +Syria) +Opera-ticket 1 1 0 = 110 +Supper, Cab-hire, etc. 1 11 6 = 165 + --- + Total 330 + + + +“Three hundred and thirty piastres for a few hours’ entertainment! Such +is but a trifling instance of the daily expenditure accruing in London, +this great mart which offers such numberless enticements to spend money; +but, on the other hand, few, if any, places in the world present greater +opportunities for amassing wealth. The very atmosphere of this great +city seems to infect its inhabitants with an insatiable desire of +becoming rich; such is, indeed, my own case, and it will be my constant +endeavour to gain such a fortune as shall entitle me to be the enviable +possessor of an English home, and become a domesticated man, and at the +same time enable me to forward the interests of my own dear country, by +contributing to the construction of hospitals, schools, etc., where my +brethren and ‘the stranger that sojourneth in the land’ may receive +relief. + +“Men in this country seldom think of marrying before they are thirty or +forty years old; girls never before they are sixteen; but I must mention +one thing which will rather surprise and amuse your Excellency. +Children, especially daughters, are excluded from society until they are +thoroughly educated, and considered by their parents fit to make their +_début_. You may visit and dine continually at a house, without being +aware that there are any children under the same roof. When young, they +are kept almost exclusively in the nursery, under charge of a governess +and nursery-maids. When old enough to go to school, they are sent off to +these establishments, rarely coming home, except in cases of sickness or +for the holidays, and even then they are seldom permitted to dine at the +same table, or keep the same hours as their parents when there is +company. Fancy a Syrian mother being separated from her children for +months, and not seeing them, though easily within reach; knowing that her +sons, if disobedient or naughty, have no mercy to expect from the +schoolmaster, no sparing of the rod, or of heavy tasks either; and that +their daughters may be going supperless to bed, for some trivial offence +against the schoolmistress, whilst she, the mother, is supping +sumptuously. If you tell them that this seems unnatural and cruel, their +reply is, that they went through it themselves; but you will barely +credit what I write, when I tell you, that there are many instances where +mothers of young families, seldom see or inquire after their offspring +more than once a day, sometimes not so often; and even sometimes they go +out of town for a week or ten days, leaving these troublesome +incumbrances to the tender mercies of a nursery-maid. What would our +mothers have said, if any one had suggested to them, that it would be +best to place us under the care of servant-maids? Would they ever have +tasted food before they knew that we were served, or rested till they had +wrenched the cane from the hand of the schoolmaster, torn his beard, and +carried us away home? + +“However great the Western Europeans are, they cannot, in general, be +said to possess that attachment and love which binds and links most +oriental families together. I must here mention that beards are at a sad +discount in England; moustaches hooted at, or only used by military men. +Alas! for the reverence paid to the long beards of Syria. The possessors +of such in this country would be set down as Jews; they are considered +inconvenient, unsightly, and not reckoned as contributing to cleanliness. +I knew a Frank in Syria, a hakeem, whose flowing beard was the admiration +of all beholders; his patients used to seize it and make him swear by it, +that he would do his best to cure them; and as for the damsels, happy was +she that could make him vow fidelity to her, on the strength of his +beard. Well, your Excellency, I met this hakeem in the streets of +London. I knew him not; but he recognised me and spoke to me. The cruel +razor had been at work, and his face was as smooth and beardless as the +newborn babe. I asked him what had caused him to commit such an act of +insanity, and he told me that, when he first landed, the children in the +streets hooted, pelted him, and cried out ‘Halloo Moshes!’ and so, for +quietness’ sake, he was obliged to submit his beautiful beard to the +hands of a ruthless barber. In England no one wears beards. Bishops are +beardless; Cadis are beardless; lawyers, hakeems, even the +solicitors—wonderful indeed! but what is still more wonderful and absurd +is, that these great men wear long curly wigs, which vastly resemble the +sheepskins worn by our buffoons and tale-tellers. + +“Young ladies in this country are devotedly attached to handsome +uniforms; and fine uniforms are devotedly attached to handsome fortunes +as well as faces. Sometimes young officers elope with heiresses worth +millions of money, whereas the officer, perhaps, has nothing but a gay +uniform and a good-looking face and figure to shew: but in all cases, +young ladies are very fond of red and blue coats; and an officer in the +guards is irresistible. Even the beadle, that is, the _Indilaft_, is an +object of admiration to the lower classes, as he struts about in his +gold-laced cocked-hat and uniform. + +“It may of a truth be said of the English, that they strive with each +other in their efforts to oblige a stranger, and heap civilities and +attentions upon him. With them it is a matter of earnest regret that any +foreign friend should find cause of complaint against any of their +countrymen. One great advantage that we Syrians possess, is the very +fact of coming from the Holy Land. Say to an Englishman, of whatever +grade, ‘I am a Syrian,’ and he will immediately know how to appreciate +your worth, and the excellence of your country; he will talk to you of +Hebron and many other towns with unabating pleasure; and the reason is, +that, from his infancy upwards, with him Syria has been a familiar +household word; as a lisping infant, he has read at his mother’s knee of +King Solomon and the cedars of Lebanon. At school, his prize-essays have +been about Jerusalem; and if, mayhap, he is a poor man, unable to write +or read, still, from the pulpit, he has long been accustomed to hear of +the great patriarch, the prophets, and the kings, of Israel, the temple +of Solomon, and other marvellous facts so intimately linked with his +creed; the scene of all which was Syria and the Holy Land. Though most +true that it is not an easy matter to cultivate the acquaintance of an +Englishman, still, when you do once become acquainted with him, and are +well known to him, then you are his friend in the true acceptance of that +term, and you continue his friend for life, whether you remain in England +or go abroad (I have found this by experience). Moreover he takes a +pride in introducing you to his own circle of acquaintances, and +endeavours, in concert with them, to promote your best interests and +welfare; he abides by you as your friend during your absence, and if +anything should reach his ears derogatory to your character, his best +energies are brought into play; he sifts the matter thoroughly, hushes +the voice of calumny, or exposes the infamy of the calumniator; and if +perchance you are guilty in his opinion of any breach of etiquette or a +misdemeanour, he weighs the matter maturely in his own mind, and is as +ready to correct and reprimand, as he is to overlook the offence, and set +it down to the score of your being a stranger, and necessarily +uninitiated in the strict etiquette of the land. + +“The English do a good action solely from a wish to do good, and from no +other earthly inducement. I am now speaking of Englishmen as +individuals, for, when acting in numbers, I must confess I do not hold so +high an opinion of them. This is proved by the many companies +continually advertised and puffed up before the public, but which are +nothing more or less than a hoax to catch the unwary, invented by +unprincipled men, of which I myself have more than once been the dupe.” + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. +LIFE, MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS OF SYRIA. + + +An addition to the family of a Syrian man is always an event looked +forward to with the greatest anxiety, more especially in cases of a first +child. The mother secretly prays and hopes that it may be a son; so does +the father, but he seldom alludes to the subject. When the propitious +event takes place, no hakeem, except of late in extreme cases, since the +introduction of European medical men, is ever called in. Such a thing +would be considered highly indecorous and improper. Dyâhs (midwives) +{233} are plentiful in Syria, and these females are ready at a moment’s +notice. If the result be a son, then the whole household is overjoyed, +and the husband is besieged by friends and acquaintances, all anxious to +outvie with each other in wishing him joy, and in hoping that the +newly-born son may live to prove his comfort and support in old age. If, +however, a daughter be born to the family, it is looked upon rather in +the light of a misfortune than otherwise. The husband looks as if he +were quite ashamed of himself, the subject is seldom if ever broached, +and if any of his intimate friends allude to the matter, they do it with +the view of consoling the father. The usual form of expression in such +cases is, “She that has brought a daughter will bear a son,” “Inshallah! +if it be the will of God.” Soon after birth the child is wrapped in +swaddling clothes, and is at once nourished by its own mother. Wet +nurses are almost unknown, and are only employed in cases of death or +great debility. The care of attending upon the mother devolves upon the +female relatives; but the women in my country are usually so strong and +robust that little attention is required. No muffling of knockers—no +strewing of straw in the streets—no doctor anxiously expected—no dosing +of both parent and child. Amongst the peasants and lower classes in +particular, the women are so hardy that it is by no means an uncommon +event for a mother, four or five hours after her accouchement, to be seen +propped up with cushions, busily engaged in mending or making baby-linen. +On the fourth day after her confinement, the _Kanum_ or lady is expected +to receive the visits of her acquaintances and friends, both male and +female; and for this occasion a brand new coverlet usually handsomely +worked in silk, has been prepared. Propped up by pillows and covered +with _farooa_, she receives lying-in state visits. Her visitors do not +remain long, but during the whole of the time they are complimenting her +on the fortunate event; and the new-born is paraded round, and gazed at, +and admired; but no one dares to praise him without commencing with +“Mashallah!” “God be praised for it!” This custom of visiting the mother +proves clearly that the usages which existed in the time of our blessed +Saviour, when the wise men from the East came to look upon the newborn +babe, and brought with them offerings, continues up to the present day, +each friend or acquaintance bringing or sending his or her offerings. + +The first thing to be done after the birth of the child is to fix upon a +name. This name, if it be the firstborn son, is usually the name of the +child’s paternal grandfather, or else, if the birth takes place on the +anniversary of any great saint’s day, it is called after him; as for +instance, Paul, or John, or Peter, and that saint becomes his patron +through life; this necessary preliminary being arranged, the child is +baptised within a week of its birth for fear it should sicken or die. +The priests usually come to the house, sometimes the child is taken to +the church. The godfathers and godmothers, two of each, and all the +relatives assemble, a large basin of water (made tepid in cold weather), +is placed upon a table and duly consecrated by the priests; the mother +undresses the infant, and hands it naked, as it was born, to the hands of +the officiating priest, and this minister, repeating prayers over it, in +which he is assisted by others, immerses the whole body of the infant +into the water three successive times in the name of the Father, and of +the Son, and of the Holy Ghost. Consecrated oil is then used, and the +mark of the cross made with it on the forehead and chest of the infant. +This also is done three times, the sponsors standing by and answering for +the child. It is then wiped dry and carefully swaddled up again, and in +a few minutes the ceremony terminates with the priest’s blessing. + +The rest of the day is usually devoted to pleasure, and the parents now +feel more at their ease, as the child has been admitted within the pale +of the Church, and in case of any untoward event, would be entitled to +Christian burial. The father, if this be a first son, drops the name by +which he was formerly known; thus, supposing the name to have been Yusuf +or Michali, and his friends used to call him Sowajar Michali (the father +of Joseph), now that his son has been christened by the name of Yacob, +for instance, they call him Aboo Yacob, or the father of Yacob—a proud +title for a Syrian; for not to have children is looked upon as the +greatest misfortune and disgrace that can happen to a married couple; +whereas, however poor the family, a multitude of children (especially if +they be males) is considered a blessing. The greatest pride of an old +man in Syria is to sit at the doorway of his house, or at the city gate, +of an evening, pipe in hand, surrounded by his sons and grandsons. From +the day of the Psalmist David down to the present day, it may truly be +said in Syria, Blessed are they that have their quiver full of them. “Lo +children and the fruit of the womb are an heritage and gift that cometh +of the Lord. Like as the arrows in the hand of the giant: even so are +the young children. Happy is the man that hath his quiver full of them; +they shall not be ashamed when they speak with their enemies in the gate” +(Psalm cxxvii. 4, 5, 6). + +Although from the first the infant is tenderly cared for, still, it must, +however healthy, have occasionally some slight ailment, and then great +consternation prevails in the household. The devices to heal it are +many. In every Christian family a remnant of the holy palm-leaves, +distributed on Palm Sunday, are very carefully preserved to serve on such +occasions; these are now mixed with olive-leaves, salt, and aloes, and +the whole is then thrown into a small brazier of charcoal, and the smoke +thereof constitutes an incense supposed to expel the evil eye. {236} +Sometimes, strange to say, the ashes of this composition bear strict +resemblance to a human eye. This is taken and crushed on the floor with +the child’s slipper, and the mother expresses a wish that the eyes of the +envious which have brought the illness on the child, may be destroyed in +like manner. After this, if the child is not better, the family priest +is in this interval sent to, and offers up prayers for its welfare. Oil +of almonds is usually applied externally, and rubbed in warm, generally +with very beneficial results. There is also a peculiar kind of soft, +fine earth in Syria, which is much sought after by mothers; this, when +collected, is brought and warmed near the fire; it is then placed in the +cradle, and, being covered with a fine counterpane, the infant, wrapped +in its swaddling clothes, is laid on this, the warm earth retaining +dryness and heat for many hours. Many of the poorer people lay their +infants on the earth itself, and then cover them over warmly. In all +cases it appears to have a beneficial effect on children, who seldom or +ever catch cold. If you wish to incur the displeasure and dislike of a +young mother in Syria, there are two certain methods of gaining this end; +the first is to step across any baby-linen that may be lying about the +ground; the second is to rock the cradle when the child is not in it; +both these are considered very unfavourable to the child, and some +mothers carry these ridiculous superstitions to such an extent, that they +dislike any notice being taken of their children, even though the praise +be accompanied with the indispensable “mashallahs”; but if there is one +thing more than another that young mothers have a superstitious horror +of, it is the visits or enquiries of a barren woman; she, it is supposed, +must entertain a jealousy of those more fortunate than herself, and her +praises be insincere and terrible. + +To such an extent do these ridiculous superstitions prevail, that if, by +any misfortune, a child should happen to die, even though it be a year +after any remarks may have been applied to it by a childless woman, these +have been, nevertheless, treasured up, and the evil is laid at her door. +Children are usually weaned in their fourteenth or fifteenth month, and +then they are for a short time nourished principally on cow’s or goat’s +milk; but by the time a child is eighteen months old, it has learned to +eat all manner of dishes, and they are so pampered and indulged in this +respect, that from the minute they awake, till they fall asleep again, +their stomachs have hardly any respite. Fruit, bread, cheese, meat; +anything and everything is set before them from the very false notion +that, the more they eat, the faster and the stronger they will grow. + +This notion prevails throughout Syria, and it is imagined that strength +cannot be gained except by hearty eating. So that when a man is very +ill, and a doctor is sent for, his friends are all clamorous and anxious +to tell him how many hours has elapsed since he last partook of food, and +beg of him to insist on the patient’s eating something forthwith, or to +give him some medicine that will give him an appetite. It is quite +beyond their comprehension to understand that in some instances food +would be very injurious in its effects. A man or a child has only to +say, “_Ena-juaan_,” or “I am hungry,” and it would be considered a +heinous sin not to gratify this craving instantly. All this, however, is +pardonable when the real motives, those of sincere love and pity for the +sufferer, are considered, mistaken though they may be; but time and +education can alone remedy this evil. So soon as the boy is able, +unaided, to run about and talk, he is then taken in hand by his father; +his dress is always of the best obtainable materials, and if his father +be a merchant or shopkeeper, he accompanies him to his office, and there, +seated cross-legged, begins to ape the actions and conversation of his +father. He is early instructed in lessons of sedateness and +self-respect, and if not cheerfully willing to obey and listen, a few +taps of the rod soon bring him to his senses. For the Syrian father acts +upon the proverb, which says, “If you wish the tree to grow up straight +and be fruitful you must prune its branches when young.” Slight +castigations are generally inflicted by them in the absence of the +mother, for otherwise they would be of no effect. Some mothers are very +attached to their first-born so that they would willingly sacrifice their +own lives rather than that their darling should suffer ever so slight an +affront. Whipping a child in a mother’s presence would invariably lead +to high words and ill feeling, and the result would be, that the child, +whipped by one parent and petted by the other, would naturally imagine +itself very ill used—hate the father and love the mother. The good +effects of the punishment would be lost, and the child only grow more +wary and naughty. To avoid these family broils, the father early +accustoms his son to accompany him to his place of business; bearing the +key in the same manner as it was done in the days of the prophets, upon +his shoulder. Is. xxii. 22. There, unseen by the mother’s eye, the +child soon learns implicit obedience to his father’s will, and as this +obedience is at first always rewarded by some small present of fruit or +so forth, the boy grows in love as well as in obedience. It is +surprising what sage little fellows, of only five years old, one meets +perched up cross-legged in the shops of their fathers; they are so well +versed in the every-day business of the profession, that the father can +repose every confidence in them, and leave them for hours together to +deal with customers, weigh out, bargain, and effect sales. A child +naturally takes a pride in thus early finding itself useful and +important, and there are few children in the world that are more +precocious than those of my native country. A child brought up in this +way would think it highly indecorous to romp and play about during +business hours. In the evening, however, he is permitted to repair to +the fields with his companions; the onus of business has been laid aside, +and the perfect child shows itself once more in the merry game or joyous +laugh of the sportive crew. + +By the time a child is six years old, he seldom, if ever, requires +chastisement; indeed, he thinks to be scolded is a perfect disgrace, and +is consequently ever on the guard not to incur his father’s displeasure. +The father who now thinks it is time that his son should be instructed to +read and write, works upon the feelings of the boy so as to excite in him +a great desire for learning. He usually commences by telling him that he +is quite ashamed of having such an ignorant son whereas his neighbours’ +children are all well instructed, and know the whole of the Psalms by +heart, for the acquirement of these invariably forms the commencement of +Syrian education; the child protests that he only lacks opportunity, and +the next day his schooling begins. + +The etiquette of Syrian manners is early instilled into the mind of the +Syrian boy; he is taught, on first rising in the morning, after prayers +and the necessary ablutions, to wish the “_Saboh il Kahir_” (“good +morning,”) to every individual of the household, commencing with the +father and finishing with the lowest menial in the establishment. After +this, the son sees that his father is supplied with the necessary coffee, +a slice of toast, and his _narghili_, and then next to his father he +ranks himself, excepting when strangers are present. On the arrival of a +guest, he is taught to go forth and welcome him as far as the threshold +of the entrance-door, and this he does meekly, taking and kissing the +hand of the visitor if a man of advanced age, at the same time +overwhelming him with such flattering compliments, as, for instance, “The +day at this moment has become bright.” “My thoughts have always been +concentrated on you, O light of my eyes!” The boy then follows the guest +to the _mistaba_, where his father is ready to receive him, and having +busied himself ordering necessary refreshments, he returns to the divan, +and seating himself at some distance from the others, listens in +respectful silence to their conversation, or pulling out the brass +inkhorn from his side (Ezek. ix.), which contains likewise his stock of +pens (and is an inseparable companion, being always thrust into the +girdle and carried about with him from morning till night), he possesses +himself of some stray piece of paper, may be the back of a letter, and +improves the moments as they fly by furthering his knowledge in +arithmetic. + +When a priest calls at the house, then the son is all attention; none but +himself is permitted to serve him; he replenishes the pipe-bowls, fetches +the fire, hands him the coffee and other refreshments, and each time +retires from the presence of the rev. father with fresh blessings heaped +upon his head. The son is early taught to listen, but never to speak +unless first spoken to, to be deferential to all old people, kind to the +poor, and especially to the blind, sympathising with servants, whose +faults he must correct with mildness and leniency, and above all, to +abhor and hold in utter detestation all strong drinks and drunkards. You +may travel from one end of Syria to the other, and mingle with every +grade of every creed, and I may safely state, that drunkards are rarely +met with. None but those who have travelled in Europe, or have mixed +with European society, are addicted to this vice. + +The son is taught to adhere strictly to all laws of cleanliness. There +are few people that are more rigid in the observance of them than the +Syrian. On first rising, and on going to bed, before and after every +meal, before and after every little promenade, hands and face are washed +with soap and water and a few leaves of the lemon-tree; the mouth is also +rinsed out, sometimes with simple water, sometimes with rose or +orange-flower water, according to the opulence or poverty of the man. +Tooth and hair-brushes are unknown among the Syrians. On entering a +house, he is taught to leave his shoes before intruding into the +visitors’ hall, and with light yellow slippers on, treads over the +carpet; he advances to all the elders who happen to be present, kissing +their hands and placing them on his head to intimate his respect and +obedience. On entering a church in some parts of the country, he leaves +his shoes outside. {242} This practice dates from the period of Moses +and the burning bush, when the Lord addressed Moses, saying, “Draw not +nigh hither: put off thy shoes from off thy feet, for the place whereon +thou standest is holy ground” (Exod. iii. 5). Likewise he also lifts the +turban off his head for a while, and then replaces it. During the +reading of the Gospel and Belief all the males remain uncovered. + +So soon as a boy’s education is completed, and this simply consists in +his being able to read and write Arabic, with a slight knowledge of +arithmetic, then the father anxiously looks out for some opening which +may enable his son thus early to acquire a knowledge of the world, and of +the necessity of fighting one’s own battles, so as to be independent of +the support of others; but though the son may earn a sufficiency to +maintain himself without drawing on his father’s revenue, he still +remains an inmate of the parental roof; indeed, in many instances he +never quits it, and it is not uncommon to see the son a man of mature +years himself, with his own children fast growing up to manhood, paying +the most implicit obedience and respect to his father’s commands and +wishes, just with the same deference that a child six years old would +obey an austere father; indeed such is the universal reverence with which +parents are treated, that (though these instances are rare) fathers have +been known to chastise their sons when they had attained the mature age +of thirty-five or forty; and the son, though father of a family himself, +and though smarting from shame and indignation at such an exposure before +the eyes of his own wife and children, has meekly borne the correction +and kissed the hand that chastised him. “Honour thy father and thy +mother that thy days may be long in the land,” is a commandment acted up +to the letter in Syria, and any son transgressing this law, would meet +with small sympathy from his countrymen, would be shunned by all, and be +an object of indignation and scorn to all Orientals of whatever creed. +Even that ferocious tyrant, Djessar Pasha, who never hesitated to +sacrifice human life, whose wives and concubines were all massacred by +his own hands to satiate his furious jealousy and rage against one +unhappy girl, who had been discovered carrying on a flirtation with an +officer of his court; even he, villain though he was, respected this law +and enforced others to respect it. A story is told of a young Christian, +who, being newly married, took possession of the whole of his father’s +house, leaving the poor old man, who was a widower and a cripple, barely +sufficient rags to cover his nakedness, or food to satisfy his hunger. +The Pasha, hearing of this atrocious conduct, sent for the miscreant, and +when he was brought trembling into his presence, exclaimed, “Hast thou no +fear of God? In an hour’s time let me hear that your father, dog that +you are, is in the possession of every comfort and luxury; or, by my +beard, your head shall answer for this crime.” + +When the son is about twelve years of age, his parents begin to look +about them to choose out from amongst the neighbours a suitable wife for +their first-born. This is an arduous undertaking, and the son is often +consulted as to whether he has any particular choice amongst his +playmates and companions. Sometimes he has, sometimes he leaves all to +the good judgment of his mother, always, however, stipulating, that the +girl must be young, pretty, and good-tempered. Old women who go from +house to house with trinkets and other articles to sell are sometimes +commissioned by the mothers to look out for such eligible objects. If +they know any party likely to suit, they acquaint the mother. They next +find out when the maiden attends the bath, and inform their employer, who +goes there at the same time, and if, upon seeing the girl, she thinks her +likely to suit her son, she contrives to make her acquaintance. The old +woman also, on her part, mentions the youth to the maiden and her family +with the greatest possible praise, and the affair may be considered +accomplished. The choice having thus fallen upon some one or other, and +the preliminaries arranged, the dower to be paid for her settled, +handkerchiefs bought, rings ordered, and a choice party of intimate +friends invited, who, accompanied by the priest, repair to the house of +the intended bride’s father. Sometimes the girl is brought into the room +closely veiled, the young lad being present also—vows, and rings, and +presents, are exchanged—the priest pronounces his blessing—the pair are +betrothed, and from that day till the wedding takes place, become utter +strangers to each other. They may have been bosom companions only the +day before, romping with each other from early childhood, but the moment +that the betrothal had taken place, there is an inseparable barrier to +their meeting or conversing again till the church shall have pronounced +them man and wife. This generally lasts six months, but sometimes mere +children are engaged, and then they have to wait till both have arrived +at years of maturity before they can get married. It seldom, if ever, +happens, excepting, of course, in cases of death, that these betrothals +are put aside or broken, the church considering the vows then pledged as +binding on either side as the marriage vow itself. + +In order to give my readers some idea of an Oriental courtship, I will +quote the account which my friend, the well known Assaad Kajah gives of +his own:—“I went to my friend H. Khooja Hahib Giammal, a liberal and +enlightened gentleman. He allowed his beautiful eldest daughter to hand +me the sherbet, and the moment I saw her, as we say in our Eastern +language, ‘a thousand of my vertebræ got broken,’ and she took my heart +with her when she left the room. I knew I was a favourite with her +father, and I returned home resolved not to delay making my proposals. + +“I told my father the state of my heart, and requested him to take a +diamond ring and a fine white handkerchief, the emblem of betrothment, to +the father of the damsel, and entreat him to allow me the joy of being +betrothed to his daughter Martha. With a view to shew that I acted on +the impulse of my own heart, and not merely by the guidance of my +parents, I followed the example of our Patriarch ‘Isaac’ in the case of +his beloved ‘Rebekah’ (Genesis xxiv. 22). I therefore sent to my own +beloved ‘a golden ear-ring of half a shekel weight, and two bracelets for +her hands of ten shekels weight of gold.’ Thus, the ancient custom of +upwards of three thousand years old is retained by the people; and a +Syrian does not inquire what a purse his bride is to have, but whether +his Rebekah is such a one as was brought up like Nahor’s Milcah; their +popular proverb is this: ‘_Khud alasseil walanah alhassir_,’ ‘Take the +one of good root (i.e., of good parents), though she may be on a mat’ +(that is, though her parents may have no more furniture in their dwelling +than a mat). + +“My beloved father, in his kind way, took my message, and with a beating +heart I waited for the answer. In about an hour he returned, and said, +smiling, ‘Assaad, all thy affairs seem to go smoothly.’” + +I am continually asked by my fair friends the number of wives I have left +in Syria; my reply is, that I am not married, though I fervently hope +some bright day to crown my earthly bliss with an English wife; the +ladies seemed quite incredulous on my informing them, that only one is +permitted by our law. The Mahommedan religion, it is true, admits of +four lawful wives, besides concubines; but I can confidently assert, that +the majority even of Mussulmans have but one wife. Possibly, in default +of issue, another may be taken—this, however, is the _exception_, not the +_rule_; and though polygamy has existed to a greater or less extent in +the East since the days of the Psalmist David, and his son, the wise King +Solomon, still where it is mostly practised now-a-days is amongst the +wild Arab tribes, south of Gaza and the Nosairiyeh. Of these latter I +have known an instance of a man marrying two wives on the same day, both +young maidens, from different villages. But amongst the Turks the +practice is anything but prevalent; in proof of which I may quote as +instances, the late Grand Vizier Aali Pasha, the former one, Reschid +Pasha, and Cabuli Effendi, the present talented Secretary for Foreign +Affairs, and most of the leading Turkish gentlemen who have resided in +Christian countries, have but one wife. As a proof of this I will relate +an amusing story current in the East:— + +A certain Mahomedan had two wives, one of these occupied the lower, the +other the upper, chamber of the house in which he lived. To prevent as +much as possible all appearance of undue preference, he made it his rule +to visit them alternately. The communication between the upper story and +the ground floor was by a short ladder. One evening as he proceeded to +mount this precarious staircase, in order to visit his beloved above, his +down stairs wife immediately vociferated, that his memory had failed him, +and that, in the due course of things, he had to remain with her. This +the husband denied, and continued to mount the steps of the ladder. In +despair, and still protesting loudly her right, the lady flew to the +ladder, and the moment his head emerged into the floor of the upper +chamber, seized her husband by the legs and arrested his further +progress. The lady up-stairs, however, who had now got an inkling of the +contest, and fearful on her part of being outwitted, rushed to the top of +the ladder, and while the lady beneath was partly succeeding in pulling +the unfortunate man down by the legs, suddenly seized him by that tuft of +hair which is left on the head of every true believer, pulled as +vigorously as her rival though in an opposite direction. While they +tugged at their victim alternately, and doubt seemed to hang over +victory, and it even appeared possible that the contested property might +be rent in sunder between them, accompanied with all those noisy +vociferations with which the fair sex are accustomed to conduct their +combats, especially in the East, a thief introduced himself into the +house, and was an unperceived spectator of the scene. + +Some time afterwards, the thief was apprehended and carried before the +Cadi, to whom he related the circumstance of which he had been witness. +“Well,” said the magistrate, “your punishment shall be either to lose +your head, or like the man you have robbed, immediately possess yourself +of two wives—you shall have the option.” “After what I have seen,” +replied the criminal, “I have no hesitation; better to lose my head and +go at once to Paradise than live to be torn in half between two jealous +wives.” + +Although it is most true, that in Europe polygamy is disallowed, I need +not say how often the marriage vow is broken, and how many are the +delinquents. Often old men even have mistresses in addition to their own +lawful wife. Much of this corruption evidently arises from the +iniquitous practice of _mariage de convenance_, so often speculated in by +most match-making mothers, in the two greatest capitals of Europe. Men +and women, who have not a single idea in common, and no sympathy with +each other, are inveigled into marriages because the one has wealth and +the other titles, or what is worse, beauty is bartered for gold. I am +quite at a loss to account for the utter want of feeling in those parents +who can ruthlessly sacrifice the happiness and peace of mind of their own +child, by marrying a girl, perhaps of sixteen, to a half-idiotic or +toothless man, in infirmity or age, thus ill calculating either for the +happiness or protection of inexperienced youth. (_I know of such +instances_). It is not in nature that such a couple should be happy; for +a young man cannot be fascinated by the charms of a haggish old woman, +neither is it possible, where such disparities exist, for a young girl to +nourish one spark of that warm affection which should ever exist between +man and wife. + +Now, in Syria, such marriages never occur. A man takes a wife for a +_helpmate_ not for a puppet—for a companion in health—a consolation in +sickness, to help him in enjoying the bounteous gifts of nature, or to +soothe when the cloud of affliction rests over his pathway. This was why +marriage was constituted, and this is why people get married in the East. +It is true that an Oriental wife cannot paint, or play the piano or harp, +but she can sing in her own quiet way, and that sweetly, too—never +sweeter than when she is hushing her first-born to slumber; and she can +dance on any very festive occasion, not the giddy flaunting waltz or +polka, but a quiet measured tread, graceful and becoming without being +indecorous. It may be that a man does sometimes marry a girl possessed +of a wealthy dower; but these instances are rare, and when they do occur, +the dower is, for the most part, invested in jewels or in lands. If in +the latter, the husband enjoys a life-interest in them—he is indeed lord +and master of the property, and can make any improvements he sees fit: +the former generally decorate the wife’s turban on festive occasions; but +in case of misfortune, then these are pledged or sold off one by one to +meet the emergency. I trust many of my fair readers will, after perusing +this, feel convinced of the binding and solemn nature of the marriage tie +amongst Christians in Syria. Far be it from me by these observations, to +throw any slur upon the married life of the people of Western Europe; I +merely wish to show to those who imagine that polygamy is universal in +the East, that the same thing, but in a different form, is as prevalent +in their own country. The English, indeed, are, upon the whole, freer +from this vice than most other civilised nations, and their domestic +felicity far exceeds that of any other people. + +But to return to the immediate subject. The son, as soon as he is +married, is fairly embarked in life, and if his father be a widower, then +the whole of the household arrangements devolve upon the young wife. The +son is generally master of the house, and the old man retires from +business and the bustle of life, passing the rest of his days as a guest +or sort of pensioner in his own house, and seldom meddling with its +domestic economy. Should the mother, however, still survive, she devotes +her time to instructing her daughter-in-law in domestic matters, and also +accompanies her when she goes out. + +There is one thing very praiseworthy amongst the Syrians, and a trait in +our character which many civilised nations would do well to take for an +example. I allude to untiring love and charity between not only members +of one household, but all relations or connexions, however distantly +connected. One seldom or ever hears of a father and his children being +on bad terms, or of quarrels and broils between sisters and brothers. Of +course they are not exempt from angry passions; high words may rise +between them, and even ill feeling rancour in their hearts, but they +never allow “the sun to set on their wrath;” and if only for appearance’ +sake, they make it up again speedily, and converse and chat as freely as +ever. In this respect they act up to a wise, if not elegant, French +proverb—“_Le linge sale doit être lavé en famille_.” No strangers are +permitted to rejoice at their discords, or mock at their infirmities. + +Then, again, so long as one member of a family is well off, he will never +suffer his poor relations to feel want. If he can find them employment, +well and good; if not, they have the shelter of his own house, and food +from his own table; and in return, all he expects is, that they will lend +a hand at being useful. Every want is supplied them: and if even clothes +be necessary, these are provided. When two or more relations of a poor +man are well to do, they join together to assist him; and this in a great +measure accounts for the scarcity of street-beggars in most parts of +Syria. A Syrian would consider it a disgrace to his name, that any +member of his family should be suffered to want whilst he had a crumb to +spare, and it would be looked upon as a heinous sin in a religious point +of view. In England, perhaps, it would not be fashionable to have a poor +relation out at elbows, tarnishing the splendidly furnished drawing-room +of a wealthy relative; or it would not be convenient to curtail the +luxury and voluptuous display of every-day wealth, to contribute a +pittance for the maintenance of a starving nephew or a crippled brother. +This may not be fashionable, but it would be Christian-like; and rest +assured, O slave of the world, so full of all “the pomps and vanities of +this wicked world,” that when He comes, who gave even His life for your +salvation, then the poor uneducated Syrian—the man who has received +little—will have a far lighter account to balance with the Great Author +of eternal life, than you who have possessed and have withheld. + +Public prostitution was a thing entirely unknown in Syria until +intercourse with Europeans introduced it first into the sea-ports; from +thence it gradually spread inland. Formerly the most severe punishments +were inflicted for this crime, and where the authorities failed to +interfere, the relatives took the law into their own hands, and very +summarily disposed of an offender against their honour. Even now-a-days, +such poor creatures are rare; and if by chance one meets with one, she is +invariably under the protection of some European—of itself a sufficient +guarantee from punishment. I remember a most shocking instance of the +punishment inflicted upon a woman of this class some eighteen years ago, +at Beyrout. Her family were neighbours of mine. She was several times +warned to be on her guard, but totally disregarded these warnings, till +at length, some of the men connected with her family, entered (with the +father’s knowledge and consent) the house of her paramour at night, and +after hewing her to pieces, threw her remains into a well attached to a +house belonging to my uncle, the Rev. Kouri Georgius Risk Allah. + +The girls in Syria are principally educated in housewifery, such as +baking, washing, cooking, etc. Starching and ironing are as yet unknown, +except to a few aspiring geniuses at Beyrout, who, from this knowledge, +derive no small emolument. The girls are also instructed in the +management of all household affairs, the care of poultry, and even of +making cream-cheese, bread, pastry and _leban_, and also in household +superstitions. Amongst these last, they are taught— + +Never to rock a cradle when it is empty, because evil spirits are very +fond, so say old crones in Syria, of being rocked. + +Never to sweep the house after sunset, as this is only practised when +there has been a death in the family and after the body has been carried +out. + +Never to look into a mirror after sunset, for an _afreet_ is sure to be +peeping over their shoulder, and he may shew himself to them in such a +very unpleasant manner as might frighten them to death instanter. Only +think of this, ye opera-going and ball-frequenting young ladies! What a +hard case it would be if you were forbidden to look into a mirror after +candles have been rung for. + +Never to cut their finger or toe-nails near a basin of water; for if the +nail should chance to fall into the water, they have nothing left to them +but to make their will and go to bed, for, according to the logic of all +old women, die they must. + +And last and not least—Never to interrupt or harm the black snake of the +house—_Hye il sauda_. In almost every house in Syria there is a peculiar +black serpent, large but very harmless, which takes up its abode in the +cellar of the house, and will never afterwards quit its nook or corner +till killed, or till the house falls, or the snake dies. No Syrian would +ever intentionally kill these snakes, for, besides keeping mice and rats +away, they are held in such deep veneration, that endless are the absurd +superstitions and tales told about them, all of which I myself once +firmly believed in. Amongst other things, it is said, that if you +destroy one of these snakes, the mate will be sure to seek for and obtain +vengeance. They pretend, further, that these snakes are doatingly fond +of milk, and that the smell of it will immediately attract them. It is +commonly believed, that a young mother may be sure, if she is not on the +watch, that the black snake will come in the night and feed off her +breasts, till it has drained them so dry that there is nothing left for +the infant; and again, with regard to the child, should the snake be +disappointed in getting its supply of milk from the fountain-head, that +it will then resort to the artifice of inserting its tail into the +infant’s mouth, and so tickling its throat as to cause it to be sick, and +thus supply itself with food. But the most ludicrous story told is about +the conscientiousness of one of these snakes, a story which is firmly +believed by most Orientals. It runs thus: “In Syria, it is the custom of +every family to lay up a year’s provisions of all the necessaries of +life, in store-rooms attached to the house; these provisions consist of +melted butter in jars for cooking rice, wheat, burghal, etc. Now, as the +story goes, one of these black snakes once deposited her eggs in one of +these store-rooms, a hole in the corner of which led to a serpent’s nest. +The young ones had been hatched, and were all assembled together +gambolling about, when some of the children, happening to surprise these +young snakes at their frolics, seeing that they were very small, whipped +them up in their handkerchiefs, and ran off with them to the other end of +the house. Now think what might have been the serious results of this +frolic. Mother snake coming home could not find her young ones, and made +a pretty to do about it. At last she discovered that the children had +stolen them, and in her rage and vexation determined to be revenged on +the whole family. Accordingly, with the assistance of her tail, she +removed the cover of the butter-jar, and inserting her fangs into the +butter, succeeded in poisoning the whole mass. Bye and bye, home came +the lady of the house from the bath, and no sooner did she see what the +children had been about, than, with many screams and exclamations, she +insisted on the young snakes being carried back again. No sooner said +than done; and now mother snake began to regret deeply what she had done. +How to remedy the evil was the question—speak she could not, nor had she +any other method of warning the family not to use the butter. Well, now +what do you think she did? She called the male snake to her assistance, +and these two, coiling themselves round the thin jar, squeezed with all +their might and main, till the jar broke into a hundred pieces, the +melted butter ran out on the ground, and was lost, and the family were +saved from being poisoned.” + +This is one amongst the many fabulous tales about the black household +snake of Syria; but such like superstitions need not startle educated +people in England, when they remember the endless fables that pass +current in their own land about many animals, plants, and things—even to +coffins darting out of fires, winding-sheets in candles, and lover-like +apparitions in tea-cups. + +It must not be supposed that the higher classes of Syrians are not +scrupulous with regard to the laws of etiquette; on the contrary, they +strictly enforce them. If Kowagar Bustros and his family called to see +Kowagar Saba and his family on this Tuesday, Kowagar Saba will return the +visit next Tuesday. If Kowagar Domian invite Kowagar Michali and family +to dinner, Kowagar Michali and family give a return party to Kowagar +Domian. But the grand day for receiving visits in every house is the +_Eed_, or festival of the master of the house, which is annually +celebrated on that saint’s day whose name he has taken, and whose +patronage he acknowledges. Thus all those of the name of Michali remain +at home on St. Michael’s day, and all their acquaintances call to see +them, and to wish them health, luck, and prosperity; some bring fruits, +some sweetmeats, and few come empty-handed. If this usage is productive +of no very beneficial effects, it at least serves to promote a kindly +feeling betwixt neighbours and friends; and this, after all, is a grand +point to observe if one wishes to be comfortable and happy in this world. + +When a Syrian dies, after a few hours the hired mourners are sent for, +according to a custom which has apparently prevailed from the most remote +antiquity, as we find it referred to in Amos v. 16. The cries raised by +these women are peculiarly mournful and affecting when they are first +heard announcing to the immediate neighbourhood that one of their number +has departed, or reaching the ear of the passing stranger with their +intelligence of death and sorrow. Wax-tapers are then sent round to his +friends as a notice that they are invited to the funeral, which always +takes place within twenty-four hours after death. When they are +assembled in the church, the tapers are lit, the corpse is placed in the +centre, and the service is read; then the candles are extinguished, the +body is carried to the grave by his friends, is buried, and “his place +knows him no more” (Job vii. 9–10). + +I am tempted to close this chapter with the following lament of a lover +over the grave of his mistress, literally translated from the Arabic. + + + +I. + + +Alas! and ah well a-day, that my rose-faced love, my intimate, my soul’s +companion, should be enveloped in her shroud! That tongue, once +familiar, with so many languages, gives utterance now to none. I listen +vainly and am astonished not to hear thy once-loved voice. + + + +II. + + +Tell me, O Grave, tell me, is her incomparable beauty gone? Has she, +too, faded, as the petals fall from the sweetest flower, and her lovely +face changed—changed and gone! Thou art not a garden, O Grave; nor yet +heaven; still all the fairest flowers and the brightest plants are culled +by thee. + + + +III. + + +O black, mysterious Ground, tell me how or wherefore have we sinned, that +thou art prone to hug the beautiful, the chaste, the rare—and yet so cold +thy love. Stones alone hast thou for pillows for the tender, the loved, +the fair. + + + +IV. + + +O Ground—confusion to thy face!—think not the treasure that is withering +in thy grasp is thine. O no! Thank God, her soul, her immortality, is +far beyond thy reach. + + + +V. + + +Earth, unfeeling Earth, thy heart is adamant; nor hope nor pity find a +place in thee. Yet seeds sown in thy bosom spring up as flowers +beautiful and rare. Without thee, a solitary soul—a blank is the world +to me—nor merry laugh nor cheerful glance has now a charm. + + + +VI. + + +Sometimes I weep alone to think that I have lost thy love for ever—and +then, oh! bitterly weep to see thy mother’s furrowed brow—full well she +feels the treasure lost—the young child and the beautiful. I marvel not, +angel, that thou art gone—for heaven were better fitted for thy home than +earth; but I marvel that we can live yet awhile on earth—live without thy +smile. + + + +VII. + + +And thou who couldst barely resist the cold—thy fate is hard—nor friend +to whisper comfort, nor careful eye to watch—in thy cold, solitary, +mysterious grave—none can give comfort. But how foolish! I speak to +dust. Thy soul, thank God! is far beyond the hurt of man or evil spirit. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. +SYRIA AND HER INHABITANTS. + + +In this chapter I shall endeavour to take a brief review of the country +and people—the drawback to the advancement and welfare of the latter—and +the inducements held out by the former for colonisation by emigrants—with +the mutual benefits accruing therefrom. + +That portion of the Turkish dominions which lies to the southward of +Tyre, and includes all the country comprised within the boundary limits +of Gaza and Hebron to the south, and Tyre to the north, is with very few +exceptions, an uncultivated waste, owing, not to the want of fertility of +soil, but to the indolence of its inhabitants. The sea-ports, or +roadsteads, are at all seasons of the year open and exposed, and in the +winter months dangerous in the extreme for shipping; in proof of this, I +have only to cite the many shipwrecks which have occurred within the last +few years at Jaffa and Caipha. Gaza has only, during the present year, +risen into notice, few English schooners having arrived at Belfast direct +from that port, deeply laden with grain. But the roadstead of Gaza is +perilous for vessels at all seasons of the year, as the wind blows in +shore; the holding ground is bad; the inducements held out to commerce +very small; the inhabitants lazy and impoverished; little or no +consumption for seaport goods and British manufactures (the natives of +the villages in the interior restricting themselves to clothing which is +made of coarse stuffs manufactured by themselves or imported from Egypt); +the desert no field for speculations; and such little European produce as +finds its way into the interior being carried thither by petty retail +merchants, natives, who supply themselves with an annual stock from the +ofttimes glutted market of Beyrout. With respect to the export trade, +the south of Palestine supplies abundance of wheat, sessame, and other +grain; but the quality of much of this grain is superior to that produced +in Asia Minor. + +The people inhabiting these southern parts of Palestine are almost a +distinct race from their brethren farther north; in manners and customs, +and even in complexion and stature, differing materially from the +northern Syrian: the great heat of the climate and the general scarcity +of water rendering them an indolent and careless people, sadly lacking in +cleanliness, and without spirit or energy to make any exertions for the +amelioration of their wretched condition. After leaving Tyre, and as we +proceeded south, mulberry-plantations quickly disappear; thus the one +grand staple commodity is wanting, and the occupation of rearing the +silkworm, at once a healthy and amusing pastime and a lucrative labour, +is denied the inhabitants of Southern Palestine. With hard manual +labour, privation, and exposure to intense heat, and all the evils of +comparative serfdom, they have no pleasurable recreations to lighten the +arduous pursuits of their every-day avocations: the plough and the +spade—the spade and the plough—incessant toil and small +recompense—unwillingess to work, yet goaded to it by dire necessity, the +pangs of starvation, or the chastisements inflicted by unrelenting +landlords and landowners. Such is their unhappy lot. + +Their huts are miserable, their children squalid and unhealthy; they toil +through a life of troubles and sorrows, and have the poor satisfaction of +knowing that they are possessed of no benefits which might, in +after-years, accrue to their children’s advantage. From generation to +generation they live and die, are born and given in marriage, but the +tenure of their serfdom is still the same. They are nominally free +subjects of an enlightened government, but virtually the slaves of +circumstances, groaning under the petty chiefs and subordinate +understrappers of government, who have yet to learn submission to the +will and mandates of the present excellent Sultan, Abdul Medjid Khan, +whose reign has already been distinguished by many great improvements in +the condition of the Christian population. Many of the firmans issued of +late years have not as yet come into force in the interior of Turkey, and +in those possessions of the Ottoman empire situated farthest from the +sea-ports. In the course of some years it is, however, to be hoped, that +the most remote villages will be benefited by the improvements made in +Western Europe. + +The disposition of the natives of Southern Palestine has a tinge of +sullen moroseness in it, which has doubtless been ingrafted in it from +generation to generation; there is nothing _couleur-de-rose_ in their +sphere of life and action; and the superstition they inherit from their +ancestors is not that pure and lovely religion of Christ which can cast a +halo around, whilst it strengthens, encourages, and supports in the +darkest hours of affliction and woe. It may be, that, under better +auspices—could the people be brought to have a common interest in their +own and each other’s welfare, were there less animosity and party feeling +existing between the various creeds, could they be brought to nurture +less of deadly malice and hatred towards each other, all combining in one +common cause with a mutual good understanding—the fate of Southern +Palestine and its prevailing feature of sterile barrenness might be +changed. The country, people, and climate, might yield to the +introduction of agriculture and other improvements, and be materially +bettered—if land were meted out in portions with a sure guarantee to the +cultivator that his toil and labour would eventually be recompensed by +his reaping some fruits for himself from the sweat of his brow to benefit +his children—were the lower classes of the Moslems less avaricious, the +Jews less despised, the Christians less exposed to the grinding system of +the land-owners and admitted to reap fair profits from the fields they +plough and the gardens they cultivate for their wealthier and more +powerful masters; then, peradventure, the sea-coast and the cities near +and round about Jerusalem would gradually re-assume a right to that +blessed title which ascribed to its countries the appellation of a land +rich indeed, and flowing with milk and honey. But alas for the land of +Canaan! the portion of the tribe of Judah is become an unsightly +wilderness; and of Zion it may be truly said, “Thy house is left unto +thee desolate.” + +From Gaza to Tyre the whole line of sea-coast is inhabited by people who, +with the exception of Jaffa, Caipha, and Acre, are professionally +goatherds and farmers—a simple people that subsist chiefly upon milk and +cheese, with fruit and vegetables, and who are merely the hirelings of +the owners of the large flocks committed to their charge. These goats +furnish the surrounding country with the only palatable meat to be +procured in these hot regions. Mutton is scarce, and beef seldom heard +of; hence poultry and goats are the staple commodity of the meat-market. +A young kid of a year’s growth is up to this very day often chosen as a +choice delicacy. Who does not call to mind the crafty art of Rebecca in +seasoning the well-flavoured dish so as to make it vie with the tenderest +venison? A kid, seasoned with spice and stuffed with sweet herbs, rice, +and the kernel of the fine fruit (at the very recollection of which I +hunger), is the festive dish of every house in Palestine on seasons of +mirth and great rejoicings. The father of the newly-married bridegroom, +tottering from extreme old age, will issue forth from the festive board +after having partaken of this delicacy, with a face radiant with smiles +and contentment, pouring forth blessings on him that prepared the savoury +meat. + +It is seldom now-a-days that men die of extreme old age and debility in +the countries round about Jerusalem; but where such instances occur, and +where the faculties are retained to the last, and the human functions are +in full operation, then rest assured, that the tent scene in Isaac’s last +closing moments—so beautifully portrayed in the Holy Scriptures—is still +vividly re-acted up to this very day, with the sole exception perhaps of +the deceit practised by Jacob and his mother, which omission may solely +arise from the fact that the children of this world have now become wiser +in their generation, and are no longer to be imposed upon by such simple +and rude artifices. + +But in their poverty and misery, the children of Southern Syria must bow +the neck meekly to the yoke till a brighter day dawns from above upon +their affliction, and till the curse is removed and the blessing of the +Almighty shall descend, like the rich dew of Hermon, upon their country +and themselves, and more than amply recompense them for centuries of +suffering and woe. They must remember the words spoken by the prophet +Isaiah—“O Assyrian, the rod of mine anger, and the staff in their hand is +mine indignation.” + +With Sidon the whole face of the country changes, and here commences that +luxuriant and verdant pasturage and foliage, which continue increasing as +we progress to the northward and may be said to reach a climax of beauty +and profuse richness in the districts of Lebanon, Tripoli, Lattakia, and +Antioch. Vast mulberry plantations, orchards of delicious fruits, and +vineyards covered with an endless variety of grapes, everywhere delight +the eye. At those spots where the soil is untilled, and up the lofty +sides of the mountains, grow the cypress, the majestic oak, the stately +fir, and the lofty pine; every inch of ground being thickly covered with +wild flowers, blackberry bushes, the white rose, and the training +honey-suckle, all which, with the fresh odours of the country, recall +forcibly to the mind the words of the prophet Hosea, “his smell is as +Lebanon.” + + “—Through the grass + The quick-eyed lizard rustles, and the trills + Of summer birds sing welcome as ye pass; + Flowers fresh in hue, and many in their dyes, + Dance in the soft breeze in a fairy mass; + The sweetness of the violet’s deep-blue eyes, + Kissed by the breath of heaven, seems colour’d by its skies.” + +In the neighbourhood of Sidon, even the rare exotic banana has now been +reared with success, its large and handsome leaves and clustering golden +fruit being a source of wonder and admiration to the Syrian who is a +stranger to that neighbourhood. Here also commences that plentiful +supply of clear, crystal water which so materially adds to the beauty of +the scenery, makes cleanliness and comfort a cheap luxury to the +inhabitants, and as a natural consequence, proportionably benefits the +health of the natives. Children grow up surrounded by the choicest gifts +of a bountiful Providence, and their young and tender hearts are moulded +in a meeker and more gentle frame; their labour is more congenial to +their constitution and habits, and the smallest exertion is quickly +recompensed by a grateful and fruitful return. The shade of many trees +affords them a welcome shelter; the waters of many cool streams are at +hand to quench their slightest thirst; and the choice fruits of a hundred +orchards, maturing to ripeness, afford them a luxurious repast. Besides +these, the cattle and poultry are more plentiful, and of a better sort, +and the pasturages are thickly dotted with flocks of fine healthy sheep, +and milch cows in abundance. The result of all these blessings is, that +the inhabitants are a healthier, wealthier, and a more cheerful race than +the people of Southern Palestine; and the vast supply of honey gathered +from the wild honey-combs in the neighbouring mountains, and the +excessive cheapness and excellence of milk renders this portion of Syria +the land “flowing with milk and honey” of the present day. + +Oh that I were possessed of sufficient eloquence to prove to that great +mass of people who are emigrating from the British isles to the far +distant shores of Australia and North America, the fallacy of the +opinion, so universally entertained by some English, with regard to the +risk and danger incurred by those possessed of lands within the limits of +the Turkish dominions! Would that I could divest them of the idea +usually run away with by Englishmen, that they would be exposing their +lives and property to the will and pleasure of ferocious three-tailed +pashas, such as they have read of in books of travels, dated nearly half +a century back, and whose detestable names and memory are now handed down +to posterity in tales and Eastern ballads. + +The real state of the Turkish empire is quite the reverse to what these +good people imagine, and of late years any European, particularly since +the siege of Acre, and an Englishman especially, commands universal +respect from all the inhabitants of Syria, rich or poor, Christian or +Jew. There may be, perhaps, a few of the more bigoted beys and nobles, +who, wishing to remain in undisturbed possession of their wealth, and the +monopoly of land and labour, would regard the advent of enlightened +strangers as likely to be an infringement on their position, dignity, and +independence; but their rage and jealousy would prove as impotent as it +would be contemptible. + +It is, moreover, difficult to satisfy Europeans, especially Englishmen, +that they can make safe investments in the Turkish dominions; but it is +only requisite to enquire into the tenure of all sorts of property as +held by Europeans in every part of Turkey for many years, to shew that +their vested rights have never been questioned, and that when any injury +or loss was proved to have been sustained to any such property, the +official representative of the owner had only to submit his claim, and in +every instance full and satisfactory redress was instantly afforded; and +I may refer, in proof of this, to an instance which occurred some years +ago of losses sustained by the French Factory, on Mount Lebanon, owing to +irregularities and outrages on the part of the petty local authorities, +and others, for which ample indemnification was given. + +I may state, as an additional confirmation, the case of the Rev. Goodall, +the American Missionary, who was plundered by the soldiers during the +Greek piratical invasion of Beyrout, to which I have before alluded. As +soon as quiet was re-established, the Consul applied to the Pasha for a +restitution of the stolen property, or a tantamount value. A list was +made out, and so punctilious was the Pasha, that even a fowl, that had +been ready trussed for roasting, was included amongst the missing +articles, and every farthing was paid down out of the Government +treasury. And this is the case in most instances where a European is the +aggrieved party; the Governor of the district will be sure to see justice +done him and the Treasury is entitled to collect the sum disbursed from +the heads of the villages in the immediate neighbourhood where the theft +was committed. This answers a double end; it satisfies the injured +party, and ensures almost to a certainty the capture of the felon, for +all the villagers are on the watch to discover the rogue that has brought +on them such a taxation. + +Europeans hold property after this manner, viz., they authorise a friend +who is a subject of the Sultan, in whom they can place implicit +confidence, to buy or purchase such and such a house or landed property +in his own name; then he makes a transfer of the titles to such property +to the European in lieu of some imaginary debt, usually a sum far +exceeding the value of the property itself. This transfer is made in the +Cadi’s, or Chief Judge’s Court; and being registered, becomes valid in +Turkish law, and is legally recognised as such. It is thus that the +oldest vested European interests in Turkey are secured and possessed, and +handed down to the lawful heirs of the European proprietors. + +In respect both to the character of the Turks, and their kindly +disposition towards strangers, I cannot do better than give a quotation +from an interesting work by J. C. Monk, Esq., who has very recently +visited the country, in order to illustrate their friendliness and +amiability. He says— + +“For my own part I look back with unmixed pleasure and gratification to +the brief period of my sojourn among the Turks. Their hospitality to +strangers, as well as their charity to the poor, and to each other in +distress, has never been questioned. From the Pasha in his palace, and +from the peasant in his hut, I have received kindness and hospitality. +They are not inquisitive in demanding the business or occasion which +brings a stranger to their doors, as such he is welcome; as he came, so +may he depart; no present is required, and rarely is it expected; no +questions are asked; attentive to the wants and comforts of his guests, +the Turk seems to forget his natural _insouciance_ until the departure of +the stranger, when in return for his salutation he wishes him “God +speed.” + +Of one thing I am certain, and that is, that the middling and poorer +classes would hail the arrival of English emigrants with rapturous +delight; and in stating this, I am not without antecedents to prove what +I assert. I might instance the case of the late lamented and excellent +Mr. John Barker, who, for many years, lived amongst the wildest and most +bigoted portion of the natives of Northern Syria (at least, they were so +when he first went amongst them); go now and ask whomsoever you will—the +richest or the poorest—their opinion of the English, and, as if with one +voice, they will reply—that, taking Mr. Barker as a standard, they +consider them the best, most charitable, and most enlightened people that +inhabit the earth—the best friends and staunchest supporters of the +Sultan—and a people that they would gladly see settled around them. + +Let us quietly argue both sides of the question; and perhaps as an +objection to start with, the reader may urge, that, in the instance above +quoted, the gentleman who thus settled in Syria was a wealthy retired +Consul-General, possessing, _for that country_, an income equal to, if +not exceeding, that of the most important Pasha in Syria, and that, +therefore, apart from his wealth, the high official position he had +occupied in Egypt and Aleppo, was a sufficient reason to command esteem +and respect among the natives; also in the cases of Col. Churchill, who +possesses large estates in the mountains, and is most active in his +exertions for the spiritual enlightenment and temporal improvement of the +people, that of Lady Hester Stanhope, and other Europeans. This may be +correct to a certain extent, but is false in the main. Of that +unfortunate lady, who once ruled with almost absolute power, the wild +Arabs of the desert, the only traces that remain, are the few crumbling +ruins of her humble abode at Djouni; her very name is almost forgotten, +and her sun of life sunk behind the cloud of obscurity. But why was +this? Simply because she lavished her money, when she had any, in vain +paraphernalia, and gave large sums, as _backshish_, to unprincipled men, +who had no sooner spent the money, than they forgot the patroness. Had +she employed her time and means in buying land and cultivating it, +introducing useful arts, etc., then her memento would have been lasting, +and the boon conferred handed down from generation to generation. Mr. +Barker’s and Col. Churchill’s estates flourish, and will continue to +flourish through many years to come. + +The better sorts of peaches and grapes, besides a variety of rare Indian +and American fruits, which have been introduced by English +philanthropists, all serve to remind the Syrians of the kind friends who +brought them to the country; and many who have risen from obscurity into +comparative independence, hourly bless the good men whose hands showered +these benefits upon them. It would be in the power, more or less, of +every Englishman emigrating to Syria, to confer a lasting benefit upon +the natives through the introduction of a better method than they possess +of cultivating the ground, etc.; while a blacksmith, a skilful carpenter, +and a good mason, would prove invaluable acquisitions; and an industrious +farmer might initiate them into the art of making wholesome cheese, in +lieu of the hard, unpalatable stuff that now bears that name. These +would be the greatest of boons to the Syrians; and though naturally a +slow people, unwilling to deviate from old customs and habits which have +been handed down to them from generation to generation, still the +successful working of any newly introduced system, affording them +incontrovertible proofs of its yielding a better profit, would very soon +induce the natives to follow the example of their more civilised +neighbours. + +The advantages to be derived from emigrating to Syria are manifold; but +first amongst these let me class, what to a patriotic Englishman must be +a pleasant thought, the comparative vicinity of this country to his +native land. Thousands of people are content to be cooped up for months +in a close confined vessel, exposed to all the hardships and sufferings +of a long sea-voyage, and subjected to the expenses of passage-money and +outfit, with the almost certainty before them, even if they succeed +beyond their most sanguine wishes, of being exiled from their country for +ten or a dozen years. I do not now allude to those shoals that are +flocking over to Australia, tempted from home by the immense wealth of +the Gold-diggings; nor to the possibility of these Gold-diggings being +very speedily inundated with people who may, when too late, bitterly +lament the rashness of their proceedings; neither will I advert to the +possibility of mines being discovered even in so neglected a country as +Syria. Some are already known; and even copper and iron also exist. In +Arabia, mountains of turquoise exist, specimens of which were exhibited +at the Exhibition, and gained a prize, by Major C. R. Macdonald, who had +also the honour of presenting the Queen with a pair of magnificent +bracelets. I am arguing with that class of men who emigrate simply +because they can find no occupation for their professional labours at +home. Yet not one out of these thousands has moral courage to emigrate +to Syria, where, if they proceed by a steamer, their outfit and +passage-money would amount to about one-half the expense incurred in +going to Australia,—the passage barely exceeding a fortnight, and that +passage, if the season is well chosen, performed in the height of summer, +with hardly a squall to ruffle the placid waters of the Mediterranean. +Here, then, at the very outset, is a saving of at least one-half of the +expense which must be incurred in going to Australia. + +We will now suppose our emigrant arrived in Syria, with some surplus cash +in his pocket; he here converts each golden sovereign into more than one +hundred piastres, and he must be a spendthrift indeed if he cannot live +well and comfortably for ten piastres per day, or at the rate of four +sovereigns a month. In this interval he has had enough time to look +about him, and determine upon the town or position in which he intends +fixing his abode; and he has had also, during this short period, the +satisfaction of writing to his friends at home, and of receiving their +answers and congratulations on his safe arrival. Listen to this, O ye +that would still persist in emigrating to Australia, and remember how +many months must elapse ere the happy tidings of your safe arrival and +its reply can reach you. + +If the emigrant be a farmer he is not long in fixing upon a fit site for +the establishment of his farm-house. The immediate neighbourhood of +Tripoli, Beyrout, Tyre, Sidon, and Jaffa are best adapted for his +purpose, the shipping there and the towns themselves affording an ample +market for the consumption of live stock. He will have cheapness to +contend against in the sale of cattle and poultry, but the superior +quality of what would be produced by a careful farmer, his stall-fed oxen +and sheep, and well-fattened poultry, would, amongst Europeans and the +wealthiest natives, command eventually a ready and profitable sale. +Cyprus would supply him with young turkeys at an average value of about a +shilling a head, and with every other species of poultry. If he wished +to experimentalise in improving the breed of cattle, he might do so +advantageously, not to mention the profits from wool and hides. The one +article of cheese alone, in exchange, would be to him a source of certain +gain. One half of the inhabitants subsist for a great portion of the +year almost entirely upon this food, wretchedly as it is made by my +countrymen. + +Should the emigrant be a lover of a cold climate, he can easily fix his +abode on the snow-capped pinnacles of Lebanon, where he may enjoy +perpetual frost. If another should prefer a milder climate, he can +calculate his temperature almost to a nicety, and by carrying a pocket +thermometer about with him, go higher or descend lower, as fancy or +inclination might prompt. Should he love to luxuriate in heat, he has +only to descend to the sea-side, and there he will revel in all the glory +of sunshine, glare, and warm land-breezes. Mechanics, etc., would find +ready occupation in the very heart of the busiest towns in Syria, and +what is more, such is the high repute of English mechanics and artizans +amongst the natives of Syria, that even old grey-bearded Mahomedans would +gladly apprentice themselves, giving in return their manual labour. + +It may be urged, with regard to climate, that the heat of all parts of +Syria is too intense to admit of English labourers being employed in the +cultivation of the immense tracts of waste land that so abound in various +districts. My reply to this is, that both food and labour being +extremely cheap in that country, and the produce, whether grain or silk, +disposable at an enormous profit in the English markets, the proceeds of +such sales would enable the small capitalist to employ sufficient +labourers under him; so that, in short, he would be simply a teacher and +overseer, managing his own property, and could, in a very few years, +afford to have an official in his pay, whilst he himself perhaps might +be, with his family, enjoying a cheap jaunt to his own country. + +But there is also another large class of emigrants, to whose means and +occupations Syria is even better suited than to all the foregoing. I +mean persons of a certain fixed moderate income; those in receipt of an +annual rent or interest, varying in amount from £50 to £300. A man in +London, especially if he have a wife and family to support, is +comparatively a pauper if he can earn no more than £50 per annum. Take +that man to Syria; plant him in any part of Lebanon, or in any other +district of that country, and he has no longer pounds and shillings to +mete out carefully, so as to cover the annual outlay for household +expenses; but he has now to deal with piastres and paras. For one +piastre he can get four ordinary penny loaves; for half a piastre he can +get five eggs; for another half, as much fresh butter and milk as will +serve his purpose for the day, and unless he be an extraordinary eater, +leave an abundant surplus. Thus for two piastres we have seen him +provided with milk, butter, and bread—three staple commodities—and the +additional luxury of fresh-laid eggs. An _oak_, or 2¾ lbs. of mutton, +would cost him about two and a half piastres, and he spends a piastre in +vegetables and fruit; thus the raw articles of consumption cost him daily +five and a half piastres, or just one shilling sterling. With sixpence +additional, he can have fish and wine and coffee, an ample supply of +each, enough indeed to satisfy the cravings of three moderate men; so +that his annual item for food, wine, and coffee, would amount to 547 +shillings and sixpence, or £27 17s. 6d. Of his original income of £50 +per annum, he would thus still have a surplus of £22 2s. 6d. His rent +and the hire of three servants, their keep included, may consume £10 of +this balance, and with the remaining £12 2s. 6d. he could buy and keep +for the whole first year a very serviceable steed, whose cost would be +more than recompensed by the benefit and pleasure of horse-exercise every +day in the week. + +Having now mounted my comparatively English “beggar on horseback”—even if +he be the most indolent of indolent men—he must go on thriving better and +better. Most Englishmen, however, have too much good sense now-a-days to +suffer precious hours to flit lazily by. It is evident also, that our +emigrant will he put to less expense the second year of his sojourn, at +least to the amount of the value of cost of his horse, which will then +only become an item of keep, as grass is plentiful and barley (on which +our horses are fed) cheap. His exchequer would thus be increased by £10 +at the end of the second year. Now, even in England, a sharp-witted +fellow might, by unremitting perseverance and indefatigable zeal, turn +ten pounds into twenty; but in Syria, this sum is 1100 piastres, and for +1100 piastres there is many a bit of ground to be purchased equal in size +to the largest square in London. This he could lay out, if he fancied, +part in a kitchen-garden, part in a farm-yard, and part in a nursery for +young mulberry shoots, to be transplanted the ensuing year, by which time +also the extent of ground could be doubled by the purchase of a fresh lot +for £10 more—both planted with mulberries, the proprietor supplying his +own table with poultry and vegetables, making his own wine, and pressing +his own oil. In five years after his first settlement, he would have a +mulberry plantation five times as extensive as Eaton Square, with that +portion of the property first planted already yielding a return; for the +mulberry-tree, after three years, is ready to rear the worm upon, and the +quantity reared goes on increasing as the trees become larger and yield a +more abundant supply of leaves. At the end of these five years our +landed proprietor, whose greatest horror in London was quarter-day, and +rent and taxes, now finds himself in receipt of about £80 per annum +instead of £50, with every prospect of a rapid augmentation, for he may +have been adding ground to ground each successive year, and every +successive piece of land purchased may have been larger than the +preceding, till about the seventh year of his residence, when he may have +made an outlay of about £200, and have a promising plantation, yielding +him, conjointly with his income, somewhere about £120 per annum, with +every prospect of this income rapidly increasing. The best part of the +pleasant tableau, too, would consist in the fact that there had been no +pinching and screwing up of one’s means, no direful privations to meet +the emergency, no sleepless nights, and worrying busy days, racking one’s +brains and detracting from health and happiness; but on the contrary, the +emigrant’s life will have been one perpetual scene of pleasurable and +healthful occupation and diversion. + +He will be an early riser, because he has had his little flower-garden to +weed, or the planting out of his fruit-trees and vegetables to +superintend: his farm-yard will then claim his attention; the cows +milking and sending forth to grass; the sheep, the turkeys, the geese, +ducks, fowls, guinea-hens, etc., all to be attended to; terminating by a +pleasant ride round his own plantation (how his heart throbs at the +thought, _his own plantation_!), and in seeing that his people are at +their various labours for the day. This ride gives him a keen relish for +his breakfast; and the forenoon is agreeably occupied in making notes of +when such and such a hen first sat on her eggs, and when such a batch of +chickens were hatched, etc. At noon he has lunch, and takes his +_siesta_; whilst the afternoon is devoted to study, or to correspondence; +or, if the fancy take him, and the season be propitious, to a shooting +party. There is no game-law to check his ambition, or to limit his range +of ground: no preserves, no man-traps, no “All dogs found trespassing +will be shot.” He may climb up one hill and go down another; spring a +covey of partridges, knock over a couple or more, and then quietly +re-load his gun for another shot. The only thing that seem inquisitive +about, or will take any interest in, such proceedings are, not +game-_keepers_, but game-_destroyers_—jackals and sparrowhawks; the one +will track the blood of the wounded partridge more surely even than the +dogs, the other soars high over head, and equally robs the sportsman of +his game unless numbered amongst his victims. + +In the cool of the evening, the emigrant will enjoy his wholesome, +abundant, and luxurious dinner, and perhaps, entering into the spirit of +Oriental life, take a _fingan_ of coffee, and, may be, smoke a pipe of +delicious _Lattakia_; and at ten, at the latest, he takes himself to bed, +glad, after the many occupations of the day, to seek that healthful and +refreshing sleep, which is sure to be the natural result of so regular a +course of life. + +Such is the picture of life I have drawn out for a man possessed at the +outset of only £50 per annum. Many in the receipt of even more than this +sum annually, are now on the threshold of the poorhouse. Surely, if such +should peruse these pages, they cannot longer hesitate as to what to do +or how to proceed. + +Men with families who wish to luxuriate in the enjoyments of life, but +whose limited means of from £200 to £300 per annum restrict them, should +emigrate to Lebanon and to Syria. There they might build themselves +palaces, have parks stocked with gazelles and deer, the choicest orchard +of fruit, a stable not to be surpassed by potentates of Europe, +summer-houses, and dogs, and guns, and other requisites for shooting and +coursing parties; a summer residence near the seaside, and a yacht to +pleasure in whithersoever they might choose, or whither the whim of the +moment might lead them. + +Finally, if Englishmen would only emigrate to Syria, and establish a +small colony there, then the uninitiated natives would be enabled to form +some estimate of their character as a nation; and, above all, would +discover, that they, like themselves, are Church-goers, strictly +observant of the sabbath, possessing ordained bishops, priests, and +deacons,—acknowledging the efficacy of the Sacraments, and a people +really good, and believers in the Gospel, in lieu of being what they now +suppose them to be, a people that mount upon house-tops to pray, because +the higher the elevation the nearer they think themselves to God. + +If consumptive patients, in the early stage of that most direful malady, +were to resort to the milder climate of Syria, there is every hope that, +under God’s blessing, they would eventually recover, for, apart from the +excellency of the climate, they are there exposed to no sudden changes of +heat and cold, no coming out of stifling opera-houses into the chilling +night air, no pernicious excitements, nor exhausting late hours. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. +SYRIA, HER INHABITANTS, AND THEIR RELIGIONS, CONTINUED. + + +The desire to benefit my countrymen by an influx of European emigrants +has tempted me to wander from the subject of the preceding chapter; to +forget the actual inhabitants for a moment, while painting the delights +of a residence in Syria to those who can only become so in future. I +must now proceed with my survey of the different races of people who +inhabit the country, and I shall endeavour to make this sketch of their +peculiarly national and religious characteristics as clear as possible. + +There are few countries on the face of the earth so small in extent, +which comprise so many different races and religious persuasions, as +Syria. In point of fact, its present condition in this respect offers a +remarkable illustration of the numerous schisms, which took place in the +Greek Church during the earlier period of its existence, and which, it is +well-known, were carried on with greater perseverance and bitterness than +any similar disturbances, which have at various times afflicted other +churches. + +So complete has been the separation of the sectarian bodies from the +present church—so great was the influence of the leading ecclesiastics +among them, that a religious difference has produced a variation in their +habits and manners, and has even given to people, descendants from the +same stock, and living in the same country, the appearance of a totally +different origin. + +We also number among our inhabitants a large and influential population, +inhabiting a mountainous district, who believe, and their belief is not +without foundation, that they are of Chinese origin. In reviewing our +population, we find that it may be classed into four chief sections: +Christians, Jews, Mahommedans, and Infidels. The Christians we find +sub-divided into more than that number of sects; almost every sect +constituting a different people. + +The Mahommedans are also sub-divided into two branches, the orthodox and +the heterodox, or as they are otherwise called Sûnnees and Sheeas, the +former who are the more numerous, acknowledge the Sultan as the head and +protector of their religion, and are noted for their love of tradition +and their many interpretations of the Koran. The Sheeas are nearly the +same in creed as the Methoûali, of whom I shall speak further in a future +chapter. The Jews stand alone and isolated, as they do all over the +world, though there is one of the infidel tribes which is now declared to +be of Jewish origin. Of each and all I shall speak in the proper place, +believing that I shall best succeed in rousing the interests of my +readers by presenting this picture of the inhabitants of Syria from a +religious point of view. + +Of late years, as most of my readers must be aware, the attention of the +benevolent Christian public of Great Britain has been frequently and +anxiously directed to the want of proper religious teaching in Syria. +Englishmen, both poor and wealthy, have contributed from their purses to +supply the deficiency through the aid of English and native missionaries: +the latter having been educated in England expressly for this sacred +purpose. + +The United States have not been behindhand in this general cause; +American missionaries have co-operated with some of their brethren from +this country zealously, and with good results. How far those results +have extended—how rapidly the elementary principles of the purest +Christianity have been spread abroad in the East, through the agency of +these godly men, to whose fervent zeal and untiring energy, I can, at +least bear the most satisfactory, though humble testimony, has been +better and more efficiently told in the annual reports, which the several +missionary societies issue to the public, than any description which I +could give. + +I am truly grateful for the deep interest which these societies and their +supporters have taken in the religious welfare of my nation; but it would +not be becoming in me to attempt to add anything to their reports. + +It will be sufficient for me to assure my readers, that the pious +gentlemen employed by the parent societies, have traversed Syria in all +directions, piercing even into the very heart of its most mountainous +districts, sowing broadcast the seeds of a pure and immaculate faith; +that they have found patient listeners in all, and zealous converts in +many of our towns and villages. The number of their converts continues +to increase; they are re-planting the true faith “The Cedar of Lebanon,” +which has flourished in the land from time immemorial, and they have +prepared the ground, nay, they have already laid the foundation on which +to raise an imperishable temple in honour of the only true Mediator, our +Saviour Christ, in defiance of the machinations and intrigues of the +“wild beast of Rome.” + +They have my most fervent wishes for their complete success, and, +trusting to the aid of the Most High, I confidently look forward to that +day, when the offshoots of the stately Cedar of Lebanon shall have +covered the entire land, casting a holy shade over its inhabitants, when +the noxious weeds that now impede its growth and baffle its influence, +shall have disappeared from the land, and when the “wild beast” shall +have been banished to his den. + +I desire, above all things, to remove an erroneous impression which I +find prevailing very generally in this country as to the character of the +Greek, or Orthodox Eastern Church, to which, by far the greater portion +of the Christian inhabitants belong. I have myself styled this Church +the “Thistle of Lebanon,” when comparing it with the healthier and purer +doctrines of the Reformed Church, which I have ventured to call the Cedar +of my beloved Lebanon; but, nevertheless, it would be most ungenerous, +nay unfair, to permit my readers to retain the impression that the Greek, +or the Orthodox Eastern Church, is an offshoot of the Church of Rome, or +in any way connected with it. + +Nearly three hundred thousand of my countrymen worship God according to +its doctrines, and all of them, excepting, perhaps the most ignorant, +would feel indignant at the supposition that they were followers of the +Church of Rome. + +I will not fatigue my readers with a learned disquisition on the forms of +worship, or on points of doctrine, for I shall effect my purpose much +easier by a simple statement of the cardinal differences between the two +churches, and I have no doubt they will at once be convinced, that there +is a greater degree of relationship between the English or any other +Reformed Church, and the Orthodox Eastern Church than there exists +between it and the Church of Rome. + +Learned historians, and some of the most intelligent and enquiring of +Eastern travellers, have dwelt with much force on the early history of +the Orthodox Eastern Church, and there is no doubt in my own mind that +they have clearly established, not merely the fact of its not being an +offshoot of the Church of Rome, nor in any way intimately connected with +it; but, on the contrary, that since its establishment it has always been +a Protestant Church, and that it is therefore more ancient in its +Protestant character than either of the Reformed Churches. + +Unfortunately for the character of the Orthodox Eastern Church, the +knowledge and experience of these intelligent men has been confined to a +very small circle of readers, and the greater part of the British public +has attached infinitely more credit to the imperfect and superficial +sketches of travellers, who resorting to our country for a short time, +and after “doing” Syria in a month, beguile the tedium of their journey +home by writing an account of their seeings and doings, concocting it in +as rapid and careless a manner as their examination into the condition of +the country was hasty and thoughtless. + +It is upon the authority of such trustworthy writers, that I find the +impression prevailing, that the creed, the doctrines, and forms of +worship of the Orthodox Eastern Church are precisely similar to those of +the Church of Rome. When resident in Syria, I have, on more than one +occasion, attended church with English travellers, who, struck by the +presence of pictures, which decorate the walls of all our churches, and +by the similarity of the robes of the officiating priests to those worn +by the priests of the Romish Church, conceived that they were in a Roman +Catholic Church. It needed some explanation to remove this impression. +Most of the writers to whom I allude—I will not mention their +names—having received the same impression, they have at once jumped to +the conclusion in which they invite their readers to concur, that the +Orthodox Eastern Church is only a branch of the abhorred Church of Rome. + +There is, as I have shewn, some excuse for the first impression, but +nothing could be more erroneous or unjust than the conclusion to which +they have arrived. I acknowledge that the robes of the Greek priests +differ in no material point from those worn by the priests of Rome; and I +admit that there are pictures in their churches; but I do most +unhesitatingly deny—what has been stated by more than one writer—that +there are images to be found in these churches, or that they are +worshipped by the adherents of the Orthodox Eastern Church. {284} The +offending pictures are not prescribed by the Church. + +The Orthodox Eastern Church does not include among its doctrines the +worship of saints; in fact, the pictures are merely portraits of holy +men, who have led blameless lives, and whose virtues the spectator is +invited to imitate by witnessing the honour done to them after death. +The only Mediator acknowledged by the Orthodox Eastern Church, is our +Lord Jesus Christ; in proof of which I may be permitted to quote the +following passage from its doctrines: “The sufferings and death of Christ +are an abundant satisfaction for the sins of the whole world.” + +The Virgin is, however, highly reverenced, as being according to the +angel’s declaration “highly favoured and blessed among women.” Some +also, but those chiefly among the most uneducated, address prayers +through her to the Saviour. I may, perhaps, be permitted to establish my +case still more clearly, by pointing out other and more important points +on which the two Churches are at variance. + +In the first place the Orthodox Eastern Church denies the power of any +council to alter or to add to the articles of faith. It protested at the +time against the famous council of Trent, since which period the +authority of councils has formed an important article in the laws of the +Romish Church. The Orthodox Eastern Church acknowledges no other guide +and source of doctrine or faith than the Holy Scriptures, as contained in +the Old and New Testaments, which are _open to all_—not proscribed, as is +the case in the Romish Church—and are printed in all the languages of the +various countries in which the Greek Church has adherents. I have even +seen Bibles printed by the zealous Church Missionary Society used in the +Greek Church, and many of the Greek priests requested Mr. Schlincz, while +he was in Syria in 1840, on a mission of enquiry into the persecution of +the Jews of Damascus, to supply them with copies of these. He left with +me several boxes of these books, which I distributed amongst the people +whom I thought likely to profit by them. + +It expressly protests against the Romish doctrine of the infallibility of +the Pope, and it recognises our Lord, the Saviour, as the head of the +Church. Surely, these are points of the greatest moment, such indeed as +ought not to have been overlooked by impartial writers, when dwelling on +the character and doctrines of a vast religious body; but there are +others of an equally important nature. + +According to its doctrines, the Holy Spirit proceedeth from the Father +alone, and not from the Father and Son as is asserted by the Romists, and +by the dissenters from the Orthodox Eastern Church, whose origin and +history will be stated in another part of this book. The latter Church +accepts the death of the Saviour as an abundant satisfaction for the sins +of the world; it holds the doctrine of justification by faith; it +denounces the belief in transubstantiation, and in purgatory; and it +departs in another most important point from the practice of that of +Rome, by authorising the marriage of its ministers. + +It is not my purpose to fatigue my readers by establishing a relationship +between the Orthodox Eastern Church and that of the United Kingdom, or of +any other country, I am satisfied with having shewn the little value to +be attached to the statements of hasty travellers, and with having, I +hope, fully established a thorough dissimilarity on the most important +points of religious belief between the doctrines and practice of the +Orthodox Eastern Church and that of Rome. + +I should have had much more difficulty in doing justice to the claims of +the Orthodox Eastern Church in the eyes of the Protestant public, had the +writers who have sought to establish its affinity to Rome, availed +themselves of other points of weakness, which my pen can neither defend +nor conceal. + +First and foremost, to my mind, stands that foolish proceeding, which the +priesthood of the Eastern Church annually practise on the ignorant and +credulous of their disciples; when, on Easter Sunday, following the +example of the Romish Church in manufacturing miracles, they pretend to +draw fire down from heaven; the agency employed on the occasion being +either a lucifer match or a phosphorus bottle. Also the practice of +burning incense during divine service, and of requiring a particular, not +a general, confession before taking the Lord’s Supper. + +When I returned to Constantinople, after my first visit to England, I had +several interviews with the head patriarch, and with some of the bishops +of the Orthodox Eastern Church, of which I am an humble though not a +blind adherent. Finding them willing to listen to the remarks of one so +much younger and more ignorant than themselves, whose only advantage +arose from the experience gained by travelling in foreign countries, I +strenuously endeavoured to shew them how erroneous and ill-judged was +their practising miracles, the burning of incense, and other proceedings +by which the senses are deceived, how well calculated they were to +disgust the better educated and more intelligent of their followers, and +eventually to drive them from the bosom of the Church. + +The patriarch and the bishops did not seek to discomfit me by learned +arguments or flimsy excuses. Like intelligent men, they acknowledged the +practices complained of to be unnecessary if not improper; but they +assured me, that however sincere their desire to establish a thorough +reform, their efforts for the present were necessarily restricted; a +choice between two evils being the only course which was open to them. + +I was compelled to agree with them that the practice of drawing down fire +from heaven on Easter Sunday, as well as that of burning incense in the +churches during divine service, had both been established for so many +years, and that the former especially had taken so deep a hold over the +imagination of my unlettered brethren, that any sudden attempt to abolish +either would at once be regarded as irreligious and revolutionary. +Rather than incur so great a risk, they were content to continue what +they considered the lesser evil; and in the meantime to promote as far as +in them lay, the work of education, by means of which alone change in +this direction is possible. To such an answer, of course, I had no +reply; and I have endeavoured to aid the good cause of education wherever +and whenever it has been in my power. + +Such as it is, with all its errors, its imperfections, and its +weaknesses, the Orthodox Eastern Church, the “Thistle of Lebanon,” most +certainly claims precedence in point of antiquity over every other +Christian church, and to my mind it as clearly deserves the sympathy of +all Christians, especially of all who maintain the Protestant faith. For +without other support than the rock of faith in our Lord Jesus Christ, +without assistance from abroad, and in slavery at home, this church has +withstood the shock of Mahommedan invasion, and has maintained its +position in Syria during a bondage of more than twelve hundred years. +Nearly all those who now profess its faith must be the lineal descendants +of families who acknowledged its authority and professed its doctrines +before the time of the Hegira; for one of the first laws of our +Mahommedan conquerors reimposed the punishment of death on all Christians +who should seek to gain, and on all who should become, converts to their +faith. It is only of late years that this law has been allowed to fall +into disuse; but it is still most powerful, as the following interesting +anecdote will prove. + +Not many days ago, I received a letter from a friend in Syria, in which +amongst other things he informs me of the wonderful fact that the son of +a Mufti had just been converted from Mahommedanism to the doctrines of +the Orthodox Church, notwithstanding this law, and that he had been +received into the bosom of the Church at Syra, in Greece, in order to +prevent the fact from becoming known to the fanatic. + +The gentleman, who has just given so striking an illustration of the +power of truth, is a scholar of some repute, a man of more than average +intellectual powers, and naturally of an inquiring turn of mind. +Dissatisfied with the faith of his fathers, he quietly made himself +acquainted with the doctrines of the leading Christian churches in the +East; and after a searching investigation into their relative merits, +after lengthened arguments with several priests of both churches, and +after a close study of the holy Scriptures, he finally resolved upon +renouncing his allegiance to the Prophet, and upon joining a church which +accepts the mediation of the Saviour. + +His mind once made up, he immediately announced his desire to be received +into the bosom of the Orthodox Eastern Church to the priest in his own +neighbourhood, who, however, declined to receive so distinguished a +convert, from fear of incurring persecution, and perhaps of bringing the +obnoxious law into fresh operation. Nothing daunted by this refusal, the +conviction of the necessity of his reception into a Christian church +having taken so deep a root in his mind, he at once endeavoured to +succeed in other places. + +With this object in view, he wandered from town to town, traversing +nearly all Syria in search of a priest, who would dare to hear his +recantation of Mahommedanism, and to receive his profession of faith in +our Lord; but all was in vain. Wherever he went he was met by a refusal, +on the same grounds as had been assigned by the priest to whom he had at +first applied. Eventually he was under the necessity of leaving his +wife, his family, and his property, to the care of Providence, while he +proceeded to Syra, in Greece, where he happily encountered no further +obstacle to the attainment of his heart’s desire. Many centuries, I +believe, have elapsed since any instance occurred of this severe law +being enforced. He is now settled in Constantinople, without suffering +any molestation on this account. + +How great, therefore, the claims of the Orthodox Eastern Church upon, and +how close its affinity to, the Protestant Churches of Western Europe! +Oppressed by its rulers, neglected by its brethren in the faith, +suffering under the general impoverishment of the country, maligned by +many who upon a closer investigation would have declared themselves its +warmest friends, the Orthodox Eastern Church, the “Thistle of Lebanon,” +still stands forth a monument of the enduring force of truth and faith. +It is not easy to make an accurate computation of the numbers of its +adherents, since, like those of every other church in the East, they are +not concentrated in any one district, but are scattered over the whole of +Syria, living chiefly, however, in the plains. Next to the Mahommedans, +they are the most numerous, and I should say, including the Holy Land, +that in round numbers they may safely be estimated at more than three +hundred thousand. + +At the head of the Orthodox Eastern Church are four patriarchs; one at +Constantinople, one at Jerusalem, one at Cairo, and one at Damascus. The +latter are in some degree subordinate to the first; but their relations +are ill defined, the power of the chief patriarch being in a great +measure nominal. Whenever a bishop is appointed by one of the patriarchs +in Syria or Egypt, the intervention of the patriarch in Constantinople is +appealed to, to procure the sanction of the Turkish government. This +sanction, I may mention, has never been withheld by the successive +sultans—a degree of toleration hardly to have been expected from the +fanatical followers of Mahommed. + +The patriarch in Damascus is called Patriarch of Antioch, the patriarchal +see having remained in Antioch until that city was destroyed by +earthquakes and revolutions. Each patriarch can, within his own +province, suspend members of the priesthood, though they should have +attained the dignity of bishop; but cases of this kind occur very rarely +indeed. Considering the number of its adherents, this church cannot be +said to be wealthy. It is true that it has great landed possessions; but +they are most inefficiently managed, so that its chief sources of revenue +are collections made in the church during the service; the fees paid for +marriages and burials, and for reading prayers with the sick, and for +visits which the priests make every month to the several houses, +sprinkling the apartments with holy water, in order to drive out any evil +spirit that may have taken up his abode there. No one thinks of +inhabiting a new house, or one whose last occupier was a heretic, without +this ceremony being performed. These, however, are all voluntary +payments. + +In common with all other ministers of religion within the Turkish +dominions, the priests of the Orthodox Eastern Church are highly favoured +by the law. They pay no taxes whatever; they cannot suffer imprisonment +or any other punishment at the option of the officials, who are hardly +less ignorant than they are extortionate, and whose power over the other +inhabitants is enormous. The only remedy against an offending priest is +to report him to the patriarch of the province, who, either by himself or +with the advice of the patriarch in Constantinople, ordains such a +punishment as the case may deserve. + +As a rule, the priests are extremely ignorant and very poor. The +salaries of the patriarchs rarely exceed £500, and many of the ministers +are not in the receipt of more than £40 or £50 a year. The greater +number of these have received but little education; their sole +qualification for their office being, in most cases, the good opinion of +their neighbours and some knowledge of reading or writing. + +As the eloquent author of “The Crescent and the Cross” truly says, they +are frequently chosen by the laity of their district from among the +lowest mechanics; and the election is invariably confirmed by the +patriarch if there be nothing against the character of the elect. + +Colleges or educational establishments for the priesthood can hardly be +said to exist. It would be ridiculous to give that name to the convent +in Jerusalem, in which the young student is initiated into the manner of +practising those pretended miracles which I have already spoken of as +being annually performed at Easter, and in which he acquires a fair +portion of that spirit of hatred and envy with which the various +religious denominations within the walls of the Holy City regard each +other. + +Much has been already accomplished by the enlightened men who have taken +up the cause of the apostles, and who are labouring hard to dispel the +dark cloud of ignorance which hangs over the minds of my countrymen like +a heavy cloud. With the knowledge and the elements of the true faith +which they are zealously disseminating, I do not despair not merely of a +thorough reform of the Orthodox Eastern Church, but of an entire change +in the mutual relations of the several religious bodies. Where there was +hatred, there shall be love; and the spirit of envy shall be transformed +into that of emulation. + +The service of the Orthodox Eastern Church is always performed in the +native language, and consists of prayers, scripture-readings, a sermon, +which is, however, generally only a simple explanation or commentary on +chapters from the Holy Bible, and in chaunting hymns. The priests, as I +have previously mentioned, wear robes differing but very little from +those worn by the priesthood of the Church of Rome. It is customary to +separate the sexes during the service; the galleries being devoted +exclusively to the reception of the females, and the body of the Church +to the males. Only the aged are allowed seats, of which there are very +few, and the young men are forced to stand. + +At the commencement of the service, the officiating priest traverses the +church, scattering incense from a censer. During Lent, strict observers +of the law abstain from all animal food, even from eggs, milk, butter, +and cheese, and they further fast from night till noon. At this period +they also abstain from the use of all spirituous or vinous fluids. At +all seasons of the year it is customary to practise abstinence on +Wednesdays and Fridays. The sacrament is usually administered twice a +month. It consists of leavened bread and wine mixed together, and is +administered by the officiating clergyman with a spoon, the formula used +on this solemn occasion being nearly the same as that employed in the +English Church. + +I have mentioned the existence of dissenters from the Orthodox Eastern +Church in Syria. They are called Greek Roman Catholics, and have existed +rather more than one hundred and fifty years. The founder of this sect +was a priest named Karolus, who had been elected patriarch of Antioch, +or, as the functionary is called, patriarch of Damascus. + +The election was, however, not ratified by the head patriarch of +Constantinople on account of the doctrines held by the new patriarch on +the subject of the Holy Spirit. Karolus maintained, in contradiction to +the established doctrine of the Orthodox Eastern Church, that the Holy +Spirit proceeded from the Father and the Son, as is asserted by the Roman +Catholic Church. On a closer inquiry into the religious tenets of the +elect of Damascus, it was discovered that his opinions were heretical +also on other points, for he was found to entertain a very favourable +bias towards the doctrine of purgatory, and also of works of +supererogation. In consequence, the patriarch of Constantinople +dispatched to Damascus a more trustworthy follower to fill the vacant +post. + +While the dispute was still pending, Karolus had been indefatigably +working to increase the numbers of his own adherents; and the see of +Rome, but too glad to have so eligible an opportunity of adding to its +influence in a quarter where all its former efforts had been in vain, +immediately despatched some of its cleverest emissaries to Karolus for +the purpose of inducing him not to give way in the dispute, and promising +him the support of the Pope. + +These emissaries were but too successful. What their arguments could not +effect, they obtained by money and promises. Amongst other things, they +held out hopes to Karolus of preferment in the Romish Church, and finally +their influence prevailed over the advice, the entreaties, and the solemn +admonition of the chief patriarch of Constantinople. Karolus entered the +Church of Rome, humbly and submissively acknowledging the authority of +the Pope, by whom he was created bishop of Antioch. Since then all the +well-known energies of the Romish propaganda, all the wealth, the +influence, the tactics of that unscrupulous power have been used with +great effect to increase the number of dissenters from the Orthodox +Eastern Church. + +In this case, there may be found additional evidence of the +unscrupulousness of the chief agents of the authorities at Rome. Though +it is the law of that Church, and one that is most strictly enforced, +that Roman Catholic priests shall live in perpetual celibacy, the Greek +Roman Catholic priests, as the dissenters from the Orthodox Eastern +Church are called, are permitted to marry, and they are further allowed +to retain the rites of the Church from which they have deserted. Perhaps +these anomalies have been purposely continued in order to facilitate the +perversion of the faithful adherents of the Orthodox Eastern Church by +inducing the belief, that the two Churches are identical. + +Like the parent Church, that of the Greek Roman Catholics is scattered +throughout Syria, but its adherents reside chiefly in the plains; their +numbers may be computed at about sixty thousand. It was most successful +in making proselytes while Syria was under the Egyptian rule; at which +period the government seemed to make it a point to place in positions of +trust and emolument chiefly such persons as acknowledged the authority of +the Pope of Rome. + +It must not be supposed, that this preference was the result of a +peculiar partiality on the part of the pachas for the Roman Catholic +religion; for it has been tolerably well ascertained, that this +favourable bias was the result of the direct mediation of the Sacred +College at Rome, whose members, it may be imagined, rendered some +equivalent service to the Egyptian government. + +It is not many years since Baachery Bey, a member of the divan in +Damascus, of the same faith, procured from Maximius, the patriarch of the +Greek Roman Catholics, permission to erect a Church in that city; and +with it the still higher authority of Mehemet Ali, who ordered the church +to be built without giving the petitioners the trouble of first obtaining +a firman. This church is now one of the finest in Damascus, and is yet +another of the records existing in Syria of the unscrupulousness +exhibited by the Church of Rome in the selection of its agents. + +In 1840, there arose a great dispute between the heterodox patriarch +Maximius and the orthodox patriarch of Antioch, on the dress worn by the +priests in the Greek Roman Catholic Church. The latter complained that +the priests under the tutelage of his Romish opponent did not, in this +respect, conform to the exact rules prescribed by the head of their own +Church, but continued to wear one similar to that worn by his own +priests. This the orthodox patriarch considered to be highly offensive, +and even dangerous, since the ignorant and credulous public were but too +likely to be enticed by this similarity into the belief, that the +doctrines of the two Churches were identical. + +The matter was referred to Constantinople; was discussed by the +contending parties before the head patriarch of the Orthodox Eastern +Church, and finally submitted to the decision of the Turkish authorities. +After both parties had wasted much time, great patience, and no +inconsiderable sums of money, the authorities either found the gold of +the Orthodox Eastern Church to be both brighter and heavier, or else the +influence of the Czar was too powerful for them, for they at last decided +that Maximius and his priests should wear a peculiar hat (_kalloosee_) +with many corners to distinguish them from those of the Orthodox Church. + +It is not only in trifles, however, that the Turkish authorities are +called upon to decide between these two Churches—the Mahommedan laymen to +arbitrate between Christian ministers! Unhappily their interference is +sometimes demanded in matters of far higher importance. + +The mutual jealousies of the Christian sects, their envy and hatred, have +reached such a pitch, that, on the most sacred festival in the Christian +year, when devout pilgrims from all parts of the earth, who have wandered +to Jerusalem for the purpose, are in the holiest of all localities within +the Holy City, Turkish soldiers are required to keep the peace between +them. At the very tomb of our Saviour, Christianity is disgraced by the +quarrels of its believers, and Mahommedans are called in to prevent them +from shedding the blood or taking the lives of each other. + +Political animosity has perhaps more to do with this melancholy +exhibition than simple religious discord. Hasty and ill-judged have been +the measures of protection which the great powers of Europe, at different +times, and from motives dwelt upon elsewhere, have accorded to one or the +other of the religious bodies in the East. Great Britain, France, +Russia, and Austria, have all, without due cause, interfered to +_protect_, as they say, their _protégés_ from undue oppression; but the +result of their protection has not only brought them into unpleasant and +dangerous contact with each other, excited and nourished envy and hatred +among the protected, but has still further shaken the foundations of “our +ancient ally,” as the Porte is called in England, whose existence is said +to be so intimately bound up with the maintenance of that unintelligible +paradox, “the balance of power in Europe.” + +At the moment of writing these lines, the diplomatic representatives of +the great powers resident in Constantinople, the ministers of the great +powers themselves, are in the agonies of negotiation, as their peculiar +proceedings are diplomatically termed; and the noble representative of +Great Britain has been hastily ordered to return to the seat of his +mission, in order that the British influence may not suffer from a +partial or one-sided decision of the case. It is to be hoped that the +result of all these diplomatic efforts, or even that of the still more +terrible instrumentality of war, may ultimately tend to the benefit and +improvement of the unhappy people whose country is to become the field of +contention. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. +CHRISTIAN INHABITANTS. + + +Among the Christian inhabitants of Syria, the Maronites, in point of +numbers, if not in the simplicity of their faith, certainly take rank +next to the devout followers of the Orthodox Eastern Church, and the +brief review I propose to take of their history and position will, I +think, sufficiently establish for them a claim to be placed among the +most interesting Christian races or nations which can be found in any +part of the globe. + +To the present hour they continue to inhabit the mountains of Lebanon and +Anti-Lebanon, in which twelve centuries since they sought and found +refuge from the decided measures to which the general Council of +Constantinople had recourse, in order to punish them for their adherence +to the Monothelite heresy. Driven from their homes in the plains and +cities of the land, they established themselves in perfect security in +the mountain fastnesses, which have enabled them on more than one +occasion to set the power of the Egyptian and Turkish Governments at +defiance, and to afford to others, no matter what their faith or origin, +an impenetrable asylum against the persecutions of their enemies. +Europeans or Easterns, Christians or infidels, flying before the +persecutions of political or religious bigots, are still received with +open arms and untiring hospitality by the Maronites, whose forefathers +always practised the virtues learned in adversity—virtues which they have +most successfully inculcated on the minds of their descendants. No +greater proof than this can be brought forward of the excellence of their +principles, their courage and integrity of heart, since even from that +early period they made Lebanon what Hebron and other ancient cities were +among the children of Israel. The extraordinary liberality and +hospitality displayed by the original inhabitants can alone account for +the striking amalgamation of Christian and unbelieving races, and for +their having inhabited the mountains, for so long a period, in perfect +amity and good-will towards each other, except when bad feelings have +been excited by the intrigues or intermeddling of the foreign powers, +whose interference has at all times been ruinous to the country. + +So complete has been the political union of the inhabitants of the +Lebanon, notwithstanding all the differences between them, that for +centuries they submitted to be governed by one head. So great is the +reliance to be placed upon those brave mountaineers, and so high is the +general estimation of their character, that when, in the year 1821, the +genius of British diplomacy and a royal administration of the navy, had +cleverly contrived the famous battle of Navarino, and the European +consuls and residents in Syria were obliged to fly from the wrath of the +Mahommedans, who set no bounds to their hatred to the Franks, they +unanimously selected the home of the Maronites as their best and safest +asylum. There they remained for nearly a year and a half, protected and +respected by their hospitable hosts, and safe from the vindictive +longings of the Turks, who dared not venture beyond the lowlands in +pursuit of their prey. + +This was perhaps the first occasion in which educated Europeans obtained +a closer inspection into the customs, manners and religion of the +Maronites; and it is to be regretted that none of them have given their +experience to the world in a popular shape. Many still dwell with +pleasure upon this remarkable era in their lives; and interesting are the +tales which they tell at their own firesides, of the dangers they +encountered on their road, and the life they led in the mountains. +Indeed, I have heard several of the gentlemen who were among those who +sought an asylum in Lebanon, declare, that with the exception of the +unpleasantness of being in a measure cut off from all communication with +Europe, they seldom remember to have passed a pleasanter eighteen months, +invigorated by a delightful and pleasantly cool climate, in a country +abounding with shooting of all kinds; while, for those who loved the +study of botany, there was an inexhaustible fund of amusement and +occupation. Even here, and at a time too when they were apparently +menaced by surrounding dangers, the _youngsters_ amongst the Europeans +could not forget their predominant attachment to fun and mischief; and an +anecdote has been frequently told of a poor old Maronite priest who +prided himself extremely on the excellency of the fruits produced by the +garden attached to the monastery which he inhabited, and which I believe +were really of a very superior quality, and who had for many months +reckoned on the autumn of 1821, as likely to prove the most prolific +season he had yet known; when lo! he was surrounded by a hoard of gnats +and bees in the shape of wild young Europeans, who, despite the height of +his walls, and the depth of his ditches, and the distance they had to +come every night, succeeded night after night in rifling the orchard and +carrying off just those fruits that were upon the very turn, and which +promised to be the _first fruit_ of the season. It is needless to say +that the old priest was sadly perplexed and annoyed; the last persons in +the world to be suspected were these very identical young men; first, +because they lived so far off—secondly, because, in the presence of the +old priest, they deported themselves with so much decorum, and attended +so regularly to the Sunday service, that the old priest would as fain +believe himself guilty of a felony as harbour any suspicions against the +real offenders. He began to fear sadly that he must needs have some +black sheep amongst his own flock; and as the depredations continued +nightly, despite watching and all other precautions, he lost all +patience, and after service one Sunday pronounced an anathema against +those parties who had persisted in stealing his fruit if they did not +immediately desist from their wicked practices. All was vain! Weeks +rolled on, still the fruits were missing, and still anathemas were +thundered on a Sunday from the pulpit, till the old priest in a fit of +despair caused all the unripe fruit to be plucked at once, determined, as +he expressed himself, at least to benefit by a few preserves and jellies, +since he was not permitted to taste any of his ripe fruit, and so the +affair ended for the time being. Some years after, however, when many +successive rich harvests of delicious fruits had completely obliterated +the misfortunes of that particular year from the old priest’s memory, he +chanced to be riding through the very identical village to which his +fruit had been regularly conveyed of a night, and was astonished to find +growing in the wildest profusion specimens of the apricot, peach, and +nectarine, of which he had heretofore prided himself that he himself was +the sole possessor. Enquiry was set on foot, and the Druse at whose +house the young men had been lodging stated, that some years since, when +some young Franks were occupying his house, they used to receive large +baskets of fruit, which they had told him were sent to them as presents +from a convent, and that the kernels and seeds of these fruits had been +preserved and planted, and, with very little attention or care, had +succeeded to admiration. Thus, out of evil resulted good; for if it had +not been for these young thieves, the mountaineers might have been +debarred from obtaining many excellent fruits, which are now growing wild +upon the mountains. + +The Maronites derive their name from Maroun, a holy recluse, whose good +actions and moral teachings were like so many dew-drops upon the +wilderness of sin and wickedness in which some of the inhabitants of the +East were wandering, about the beginning of the fifth century. They were +subsequently associated with the Romish Church by one John, the Maronite, +who joined the Latin insurgents against the authority of the Greek +Emperor. They remained subordinate to the Church of Rome during the next +six hundred years, though they continued to maintain their own +patriarchs. This attachment and subjection to Rome was, however, +considerably diminished by the events which followed the crusades; and +they for a short time maintained an independent position. Rome, however, +never lost sight of its former subjects, and perpetually strove to win +them back to the fold of which the Pope is the shepherd; and after forty +years of negotiation and intrigue, Pope Eugenius succeeded in procuring +from the Maronites a solemn renewal of their recognition of the Papal +authority. From that date they have adhered to the Romish Church, +enjoying privileges which the temporising unscrupulous conclave in Rome +conferred and maintained, though contrary to the laws of their Church, in +order not to lose so large a body of supporters. What these privileges +are, will be seen in the following account of the people and their +religious practices. + +The connection which exists between the Maronites and the Church of Rome +is, in point of fact, maintained almost entirely by the priests, who, of +course, have very good motives for their conduct. Were it not for the +almost slavish subjection of the people to the priestly authority, this +connection with the Church of Rome would long since have been violently +shaken, if not entirely severed, for the second time. + +I have said that they inhabit the mountains of Lebanon; but I ought to be +more precise, and to state, that they are chiefly to be found in those +parts of the mountains which are in a north-easterly direction from +Beyrout. They are a most industrious, contented, happy people, whose +chief occupations are confined to weaving silk, and to tilling their +ground—which, in some parts, the rocks and the soil render exceedingly +difficult—for cultivating their mulberry trees for silk worms, which they +do with great zeal and good effect. + +So thoroughly has nature fortified the district they inhabit, and so +manly and courageous are they, that until the year 1843 they had never +been conquered by the Mahommedans; and though they had politically agreed +to the payment of an annual tribute to the Porte, they were at that +period without a garrison. They have experienced great vicissitudes at +different periods, but throughout their whole history, I find that each +crisis only served to add to the power and influence of the priesthood, +who, in all things, social as well as political, have an incredible hold +over the people. They are the legislators and the administrators. As +they cunningly work together with the Sheikhs, nothing but a thorough +change in the system of education will enable the people to shake off +their fetters. + +Their creed and ritual partake both of the Greek and Latin churches; but, +though they reverently adore the Virgin, they allow no images of any kind +in their churches. What is still more remarkable, is the fact, their +priests before ordination are allowed to marry, but the patriarchs and +bishops must live in the strictest celibacy. So great is the deference +paid by the laity to the priesthood, that whenever one of them meets a +priest, he is sure at least to kiss his hand and ask his blessing; while +some of the more pious, or perhaps more servile, of the women kneel +before the priestly robe as if it were as holy and as sacred as the altar +at which its wearer officiates. As a rule, however, the people dislike +being called Roman Catholics; indeed many of them openly profess to hate +the See of Rome, and, were it not for the very Romish tendencies of the +protection and education they obtain at their schools, which in other +respects are really excellent, the Maronites would certainly, in a very +short period, disconnect themselves from all association with the See of +Rome. + +An attempt was made not very long ago by an American missionary, to +introduce a purer Christianity among them; but the unfavourable results +of his brief residence at Deyr-al-Kamar may be solely attributed to a +want of caution, in too abruptly opposing the doctrines of the +established faith before educating the people. + +A legate from the Pope is perpetually resident on the Lebanon, where the +chief monastery of the Maronite priesthood is situated. At various +periods, too, there have been missions sent out from Rome in order to +prevent any slackening or lessening of the papal influence. At this +moment there is a Lazarite mission in Syria, the members of which have +succeeded in persuading several fathers of families to part with their +children for the purpose of having them educated in Rome. They have also +constructed a hospital, and established schools for male and female +children at Beyrout. The convents are among the few religious +institutions within the dominions of his Imperial Majesty the Sultan, +which are allowed to use the pleasant-sounding church-bells; and the +Lebanon {306} is among the few localities in the East where the European +traveller can experience the pleasant feelings and genial associations of +his country, which are excited by the solemn sound of the Sabbath-bell, +feelings that were unintelligible to me until I had spent more than one +Sabbath in Europe. This privilege is a terrible ear-sore to the +Mahommedans, who detest the Maronites more than any other Christian sect; +partly because they know the Maronites entertain the belief that they are +destined to put a period to Islamism, by enticing French interests into +the East. + +I may observe, here, that in point of fact the Maronite faith has no firm +foundation; for heretofore they seem to have been a people such as is +described by St. James, chap. i. ver. 6—“He that wavereth is like a wave +of the sea driven of the wind and tossed.” And they continue to be +lukewarm; neither one thing nor the other; Roman Catholic in their +adherence to the Pope and in the observance of certain outward forms of +religion—Greeks as regards the privileges accorded to their priests—and +Protestants in not admitting images in their churches. If we take a +review of their _waverings_, we may be led to some conclusion on this +head. First, we are told that their sect originated with a hermit of the +fifth century: nearly 600 years they appear to have adhered to their +original faith, but in 1182 they submitted to the Pope’s authority. +Barely a century elapses when they are found wavering again, owing to +circumstances then taking place in the East. Nearly 300 years afterwards +they again return to the Church of Rome; this was in 1445. And now, 400 +years after that, we find their creed to consist of an amalgamation of +all the Christian sects. This cannot last long; they must eventually +become one thing or the other; either _de facto_ Roman Catholics, or else +_de facto_ Greeks or Protestants. + +Notwithstanding the Maronites live under a theocracy, from the peculiar +situation of the Lebanon with regard to the lords of the surrounding +land, the admission to many privileges was rendered not only +advantageous, but absolutely requisite; and from these facts the notions +of liberty entertained by the Maronite are far more exalted than those +meagre ideas that possess the brain of the inhabitant of the plains. +Their patriarch, subject to the Pope’s approval, is elected by the +bishops of the nation: to him they pay extraordinary deference. The +bishops are also possessed of immense influence, and their word is +tantamount to law. The local authorities are careful to avoid anything +that might cause offence to these prelates, well knowing the influence +they exercise over the minds of the people. Owing to this, crime is in a +great measure unknown amongst the Maronites; for offences, however +trivial, are immediately judged by the clergy, and satisfaction and +retribution at once exacted. Marriages without the bishop’s consent +cannot be solemnized; and any _faux pas_ on the part of young people +usually terminates in their marriage. + +The word of excommunication or anathema, amongst the Maronites, is +“_fra-massoon_”; and he or she on whom it is pronounced, is as much +avoided and abhorred as the plague-stricken. All houses are closed +against a “_fra-massoon_,” and he may starve of cold and hunger amongst +his own family and friends, with none to compassionate him. I remember +being told by a person not overburdened with common sense, that upon one +occasion, some years ago, a friend of his had given shelter and food to a +“_fra-massoon_”; and that, happening unfortunately, soon after, to quit +this world, his body was put aside in a cave, in accordance with the +usual custom. Ten years afterwards, the coffin was accidentally opened, +and the spectators saw with horror that the corpse was quite fresh, and +presented no signs of decomposition. So unusual an occurrence excited +great curiosity, and enquiries being made, it soon became known that the +departed had transgressed the laws of the Church, by giving hospitality +to one whom its ministers had cursed. The relatives of the deceased +instantly went to the priest, and, after feeing him pretty freely, +obtained his services to read a certain number of prayers over the +corpse, and to pronounce upon it the forgiveness of the Church. Hereupon +nature resumed her usual course, and nothing further was heard of the +subject. + +The Maronites, under the influence of their priesthood, are noted as +being most inhospitable to all excepting those professing their own +creed; and even European travellers have been refused a shelter for the +night, supposing that they were missionaries. They are a very +superstitious and credulous people, and delight in absurd legends. They +perform pilgrimages to Jerusalem and also to the tomb of Noah, supposed +to be situated in the village of Kerak, between Beyrout and Baalbec; and +about this they have endless ridiculous stories. They also pretend to +have discovered the tomb of Moses, at a place a short distance from where +the late Lady Hester Stanhope used to live. + +One great advantage which the Maronites possess, and which must +eventually prove very beneficial to them, is the fact, that education is +spreading universally amongst them. There is a native printing-press at +work in one of the monasteries; but though the generality of the men are +well-bred, the women are grossly ignorant and rude. Lady Francis Egerton +found cause to complain of this sadly: “If I fastened my door,” says her +ladyship, “they called and knocked and battered at it, until I feared it +would yield to their efforts; and this at five o’clock in the morning, +whilst I was in bed.”—A pardonable curiosity, however, amongst a +semi-barbarous people; for so the women must be termed, until they are +admitted to the privileges conferred by education, and social intercourse +with civilised English women. + +The Maronites, in common with the Greeks and the Armenians, pay an annual +visit to the Cedars of Lebanon, for the celebration of the feast of the +Transfiguration. Here they celebrate mass on a rough stone altar, at the +foot of the Cedars: in the open air—in “a temple not made with +hands”—some of them offer up prayers and thanksgivings, quoting those +very Psalms of David which were composed and written expressly to +commemorate God’s mercy and loving-kindness, as in connection with the +immediate spots which surround these cedars. + +A wedding amongst the Maronites differs in some material points from the +ordinary marriages in Syria; in the first place, the priest is considered +the principal negotiator, and on his report as to the suitableness of the +match, much of the future happiness of the young people may be said to +depend. After preliminaries have been arranged, gifts of dresses, and +the like, are exchanged, but the bashful _fiancée_ is supposed to be in +utter ignorance of all that transpires, to spurn these gifts, and to +dislike even the mention of her future husband’s name. The priest +blesses the bridal clothes of the bridegroom before he adopts them. When +the friends go to fetch the bride, a mock combat ensues, in which, +however, without bloodshed or bruises, the bridegroom’s party is +invariably victorious, and the women carry off the veiled bride in +triumph, attended by her female relation. The bride’s house mourns her +departure, and she herself makes no secret of her sorrow to leave; but +the _arus_ (bride) no sooner makes her appearance than the shouts and +acclamations, and firing of muskets by the assembled multitude, seem +effectually to drown any discordant sounds of lamentation; the +procession, however, moves at a funeral pace, for it is thought highly +indecorous that the bride should appear as though anxious to arrive at +her new abode. On crossing the threshold, she is saluted by the women +with the cry of welcome, and clapping the hands; and after her veil has +been removed, she is covered with one of red gauze, and then made to sit +in state on the divan at the upper end of the room. Here she neither +smiles nor speaks, but rises on the entry of each venerable female +friend, to embrace her, and kiss her hand. Both men and women, though in +separate apartments, pass the night in noisy hilarity. Before sunset, +the bishop, or in his absence the senior priest, attends at the +bridegroom’s house to perform the ceremony; all symptoms of mirth are +immediately abandoned, silence is proclaimed, and then the service +proceeds very much after the fashion of the Greek Church, only that both +the groomsman and bridesmaid are crowned by the priest as well as the +couple being married, and the _bridegroom_ places the ring given him by +the priest on the bride’s finger. Towards the end of the marriage +ceremony, the priest puts a piece of blue ribband, with the picture of a +saint attached to it, round the bridegroom’s neck. The newly married +bride is confined to her house for the space of a month after her +marriage. + +I have already mentioned the extreme facility with which the Maronites +believe many fables and superstitions that have any connection with +religious matters; and perhaps I shall be pardoned for introducing in +evidence of this, a fact which occurred about eighty years ago, which +attracted the attention of the traveller Volney, and which is still +spoken of very frequently among the inhabitants. There are several +nunneries belonging to the Maronites in the Lebanon, and it was in one of +them, about the period mentioned, that Hindyeh, a young nun, forced +herself into great notoriety by the severity of her penances, and the +extraordinary piety she displayed. Having found many friends, her +reputation increased to such an extent, that she was at last declared +capable of working miracles; and the simple-minded Maronites, having +provided the funds, she was duly installed in a religious establishment +of her own. Her nunnery, and the other establishments in connection with +it, had flourished for more than twenty years, when a suspicion was +suddenly excited, that several of the nuns, of whom many had died, had +met their death by unfair means, and that most improper practices +prevailed within the cells. An unhappy merchant of Sidon, who had placed +two of his daughters in the establishment, disturbed by these reports, +determined to visit the place and make inquiries. On his arrival, he was +told he could not see his daughters because they were ill, and finding +that all entreaties were in vain, he proceeded to Deyr al Kamar, and +obtained an armed force from Emir Yusuf, the chief of the mountain, and +the attendance of the bishop to enquire into the matter. The result +shewed the existence of a system of wickedness and profligacy, exceeding +in iniquity anything ever known, to which one of the daughters of the +merchant in question had already fallen a victim, the other being at the +time almost dead. The holy, or rather unholy, Hindyeh, was seized and +imprisoned, with her accomplices, and the examinations which were made +fully criminated them all. The arch-priestess of all this wickedness +managed to escape from the convent in which she was imprisoned, and to +reach a locality in which she possessed a large body of adherents and +believers. Notwithstanding the disclosures which were made, the +hypocritical career pursued by this nefarious woman, so completely +imposed upon the weak and credulous Maronites, that she died respected +and revered, and to this day is acknowledged as a saint. Need I say +anything more to prove the extent to which this weakness is carried among +the _fellahen_. + +The number of Roman Catholics in Syria, including both the Armenians, and +the Greek Roman Catholics, as one portion of them is called, may be +stated at about 200,000, and, as they differ in no important points from +the Roman Catholics of the West, they may be passed over without further +mention. I may observe, however, that the Armenians are not so generally +respected as their Christian brethren of other denominations; and, in +illustration, I would remark, that at the grand ceremony on Easter-day of +bringing down fire from heaven, the Armenians are driven to obtain a +portion of it as best they may; their priests and pilgrims being +generally forced into the most remote corner of the sacred edifice. + +The Copts, or, as we are accustomed to call them in the East, “the +Oobbeet,” are the followers of one “Mar Yackoob.” Their chief doctrine +is that Christ possessed but one nature; and they agree with the Church +of Rome in saying that the Holy Spirit proceeded from the Father to the +Son. They are governed by a patriarch who resides at Cairo, and is +called patriarch of Alexandria, whose authority is very great over the +whole sect; indeed, their most prominent characteristic may be said to be +an almost slavish obedience to their priests. Like the Maronites, they +invariably kiss the hand of any priest they may encounter in the open +street, or country; and many of them prostrate themselves before the holy +man. Though they conform to the Hebrew practice of circumcision, they +also baptize their infants. It is customary with them to pray seven +times during the twenty-four hours, according to the rules prescribed by +the patriarchs; and it is, moreover, a common practice with many of them +to learn by heart the whole of the Psalms, some of which they invariably +repeat before proceeding to transact any business, in the belief that +this devout recurrence to the Psalmist will insure prosperity to the +affair they have in hand. + +Generally they are very clever, especially at figures. A few of them +have recently joined the Orthodox Eastern Church, with which they have +many practices and doctrines in common; and a small section has been very +powerfully worked upon by a Lazarite mission, the members of which +succeeded in persuading several parents to part with their children for +the purpose of having them educated in Paris. + +It is presumed, from the remarkably Jewish cast of their features, and +from their adherence to the Hebrew law, that they are of Jewish origin; +but other evidence on this point is wanting. Though I have said that +they were called after one Mar Yackoob, their existence as a Christian +sect at an earlier period is clearly established; and indeed it has been +said by many of the learned visitors to Syria, that they are as old as +the Nestorians. At all events they were only organised by Mar Yackoob, +who founded a perfect theocratic form of association or government. +Indeed, wherever we turn, whether it be to the several Christian sects or +denominations in the East, or to any one of the pagan forms of religion, +we find the same fact in all. They have all been founded and organised +by a priest, and, whether for good or evil, priestly influence has, in +most instances, prevailed until the present day. It is also believed +that the Armenians were in some way connected with, or absolutely +descended from, the Copts; and there is very good evidence of great +intimacy between the latter and the Nestorians, the last of the Christian +bodies in Syria, and now to be described. In point of numbers the Copts +are very unimportant. They do not exceed 300 in Syria; but there are a +great many of them to be found in Egypt. + +The Nestorians now claim my attention; but as very little is known +concerning them in my own neighbourhood, and as I have never had an +opportunity of visiting them in their own mountain-homes, I can only +relate what has been told me by travellers. + +It is believed that they are of Jewish origin; but there is no positive +evidence on the point, beyond their features, their observance of certain +Jewish customs, and their respect for portions of the Hebrew code of +laws. It cannot be doubted, however, that they have maintained +Christianity in the East for more than sixteen hundred years; and that, +as primitive Christians, who have not degenerated from the simple form of +worship enjoined by the Apostles of our Lord, they are entitled to our +deepest respect and veneration. + +They are divided into two sects, the Simple and the Papal Nestorians; but +the former do not acknowledge the latter as a part of their body, and +declare that they are in no way connected with the Nestorian Church. +They have two patriarchs, who reside in the mountains near Julamerk, and +whose influence, together with that of all the priesthood, is very great +indeed. Here again we find existing a purely theocratic form of +government. The priesthood legislate politically and socially, and they +administer the laws judicially, as well as attend to the religious wants +of the community over which they preside. + +The habits and manners of life of the Nestorians are so primitive, that +their simplicity has become proverbial in the East. Their belief differs +from the Orthodox Eastern Church, by declaring the existence of two +persons in the Saviour, as was propounded by their founder, Nestorius, in +the beginning of the fifth century. The sacrament of bread and wine is +administered to all by the officiating priest, in almost the same way as +this ceremony is performed in the Greek Eastern churches. They are most +hostile to the Roman Catholics, whom they hate. + +Including the Nestorians inhabiting Persia, I believe there may be +altogether about 100,000. On the confines of Persia, they are engaged in +perpetual warfare with the Koords. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. +THE POPULATION OF SYRIA, CONTINUED.—THE PAGAN INHABITANTS. + + +Having dwelt at some length upon the several bodies of Christian +inhabitants of Syria, I must entreat my readers’ pardon if I endeavour to +make my description of the unbelieving portion as brief and condensed as +possible. Of course, I need not advert to the Mahommedans, the faithful +followers of the Prophet. As I have stated before, they comprise by far +the largest proportion of the inhabitants of the towns and lowlands of +Syria, and are lords and masters over the rest of the population. + +But, besides the orthodox Mahommedans, we have in Syria a very large +number of heterodox followers of the Mahommedan faith, who are called +Metáwali; and who, though they are certainly less numerous than their +orthodox brethren, are an infinitely more interesting people. They are +followers of Ali, the other sect adhering to Omar. They may amount, in +round numbers, to about 35,000; but as they have selected for their homes +some of the most inaccessible parts of the mountainous districts of the +country, their numbers cannot be very accurately ascertained. They are +said, by many persons, to belong to the same section of the Mahommedan +faith as the Persians, who also believe in Ali; but they exhibit some +peculiar doctrines and customs, which establish an essential distinction +between the two. + +Like the former, they expect the advent of the Messiah in the person of +the twelfth Imam of his line, whom the Turks allege to have been slain in +the battle of Karbela in which he engaged with the Caliph of Bagdad; but +whom the Metáwali believe to have been transported to Arabia, by the +miraculous interposition of the Divinity, and from whence he is to return +in triumph to re-establish the race of the Imams on the throne, and to +punish all who opposed him or his followers. When the expected Messiah +does appear, they believe that he will assume the government of the whole +world—that he will visit with the most dreadful punishments all who shall +have denied him—and that he will render unto all true believers eternal +happiness. + +In expectation of the advent of this Messiah, the Metáwali keep horses, +money, and clothing constantly in readiness for his arrival; and whatever +is once set apart for this purpose, is held sacred for ever after, and +cannot be used by an ordinary mortal. {318} + +They believe in the transmigration and gradual purification of the soul, +which, according to their belief, eventually becomes a bright star in the +heavenly firmament. The first apostle of Ali, in Syria, was +Abou-Abdallah-Mohammed, who was most successful in making converts, but, +having excited the envy and hatred of some of the chief people in +Damascus, he was imprisoned and burned to death as an infidel and +blasphemer. From this circumstance he has been styled the first martyr. + +Though the first apostle of the new faith was thus summarily +extinguished, the light of his doctrines was not smothered with him, and +it may be considered certain that the manner of his death was mainly the +cause of the rapidity with which they spread over the country immediately +afterwards. As is generally the case, persecution lent strength and +vitality to the cause, and many sought the honour of a martyrdom similar +to that which had befallen Abou-Abdallah-Mohammed. However, the faster +the new religion spread, the greater activity did the Orthodox +authorities develop in putting it down. Priest after priest was being +drawn and quartered, hundreds of men, women, and children were butchered +or buried alive, to gratify the atrocious passions of an ignorant people, +and still more barbarous government. Nevertheless, the new faith +prospered, and the Metáwali began to assume a position of influence and +power in the country; but after numerous vicissitudes, the butcher +Djezzar, who had been made governor of Syria, succeeded by cunning and +treachery in prostrating their power, and destroying their strongholds. +Thousands of them were executed by his orders, and even under his eye, +and, like Mehemet Ali, who watched the destruction of the Mamelukes, so +did Ahmed Djezzar amuse himself by watching the death struggles of +hundreds of the Metáwali who had been hurled from the battlements of +Nabatieh into the Kasmich. + +Under persecutions like these, the strong arm of the authorities, aided +by the passions of a fanatical body combining together against them, the +Metáwali gradually lessened in numbers, and consequently lost the +influential and powerful position they were beginning to acquire. +Politically this sect may now be said to be prostrate, but they cherish +the memories of those of their forefathers who fell in the defence of +their religious independence, and many an evening’s hour is passed by the +people listening in rapt attention to the numerous anecdotes of the +firmness, the courage, and the devotedness of the martyrs for their +faith. + +The localities they live in entails habits and customs which naturally +tend to rear a hardy and courageous race. Their method of living is +simple in the extreme; but, though the stranger who may visit their +mountain-villages is sure of the greatest hospitality, it is +nevertheless, of a peculiar character. They never admit within their +dwellings any person who does not belong to their own persuasion, nor do +they allow any one but a Metáwali to use their furniture or domestic +utensils. Should a Frank or a Jew by accident touch a mat or a pot +belonging to them, it is instantly cast away as defiled and unclean. To +receive the wandering stranger there is erected in every village, a house +for the purpose, in which the visitor is ever most bountifully provided +for. Strange to say, however, their dislike to contact with others, +extends no further than their own dwellings. In the open air, or in a +house belonging to a person of a different persuasion, they are alike +indifferent to the presence of Christian or Jew, conversing and +associating with them as freely as they zealously avoid permitting them +to enter their own dwellings. They are an exceedingly clean people, +never sitting down to a meal without having performed their ablutions. + +It is owing, perhaps to the paucity of their numbers, but still more, I +think, to the gradual decline of the power of the Maronite, that the +Metáwali exist untroubled in their mountain fastnesses. But should any +attempt be made by any government, or by any other religious body in the +East, to wrong or subjugate them, I am convinced that they would not +submit without a very severe struggle, in which their native ferocity +would once more appear on the surface, to their own disadvantage, +perhaps, but still more to that of their enemy. + +A good deal has been written respecting the Druses, who are the most +curious, and least known section of the population of Syria. The cause +of the ignorance which prevails concerning them, and which I am unable to +dispel will be seen in the following account of this interesting and +courageous people. + +I have been told that several learned men have, at different times, +diligently endeavoured to acquire a thorough insight into the religious +theories possessed by the Druses, but I have never yet met with any +author who has given an explanation or description of them, +satisfactorily to his readers. Where others, whom I have been taught to +respect and revere, have failed, I hesitate to make the attempt, knowing +that I shall be unsuccessful. In point of fact, the great mystery which +surrounds the religion of the Druses is, I fear, a mystery even to +themselves, a shadowy outline, which the initiated are told they +understand, and which the uninitiated worship in the depth of their +ignorance. + +The Druses inhabit the Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon, or rather the southern +portions of the mountain, in which they possess a great deal of land and +villages; but they are also mixed up with the Maronite and other +Christian populations of more than two hundred other villages. They are +divided into two classes; the initiated into the mysteries of their +religion are called Akkals, and the uninitiated are called Djahils. Both +sexes are alike eligible for initiation among the Akkals; in this respect +there is that perfect equality for the female sex, which I so often hear +some of my fair friends in England sighing for. But the woman who is a +Akkaliah may not marry a Djahil. There is an easy remedy for this, +however, since I am told that initiation may be effected on very short +notice and without expense or examinations. Every Thursday the Akkals +meet in Khalueh, a temple, or building, erected expressly for the +purpose, and in which their religious books, their war trophies, and +standards are kept. Here they sit talking of politics, or reading +religious books, and when the general discussions are concluded, the +majority go away, leaving only the highest in social rank to discuss the +interests of the tribe with the priests. The chief priest, or as I take +the liberty of calling him, their great mystery-man, lives at Bakleen, +whence he rules over the whole body. As I have said previously, the +nature of their religious belief is a mystery. It is neither Christian +nor Jewish, nor Mahommedan nor Pagan. They believe in the unity of God, +and in the transmigration of souls, but while they themselves profess to +be Mahommedans, they exhibit in their social customs as well as in their +features, many points of resemblance with the Jews, and they have no +hesitation whatever in denouncing Mahommed as a false prophet, and in +disregarding the most sacred festivals of the Moslem faith. + +Though so little is known of their present religion, it has been +tolerably well ascertained that it was founded by one Darazi, who about +the middle of the eleventh century traversed Syria, preaching the +doctrine that the real Caliph Hakeem was the incarnation of God, and the +most perfect manifestation of the Deity. Name and strength was, however, +first given to the new creed by one Hamza, who denounced Adam, Abraham, +Moses, Jesus, and Mahommed as impostors, and declared himself to be the +incarnation of the spirit of universal intelligence. In his creed, he +either forgot or wilfully omitted all notice of a future state of +existence. Since that period, this peculiar faith has gained many +proselytes; and the Druses are now, next to the Maronites, the most +numerous religious body in Lebanon who are not Mahommedans. + +Leaving their mysterious creed, to deal with the people themselves, I may +state, that they are easily distinguished by their features, being, +generally speaking, muscular, well-made men, active and middle-sized, and +enabled to undergo great fatigue. Their courage is not to be daunted. +The women are generally very handsome, with tall, slim figures, black +hair, and beautiful blue eyes. The disposition of the men is a strange +mixture of open-hearted hospitality and morose vindictiveness; but they +are strictly honourable, and have never been known to break a promise. +In all their transactions they deal uprightly with one another; but this +cannot be said to be the case when they transact business with others: +their creed admits of their practising imposition upon infidels to their +own faith. + +I have already observed, that there exists a great resemblance between +the ancient Scottish clans and the mountaineers of the Lebanon. In +support of this, I cannot do better than to quote what Volney says, when +speaking of the Druses:—“As soon as the emir and sheikhs had determined +on war at Deyr al Kamar, criers went up at night to the summit of the +cliffs, and cried aloud, ‘To war, to war! Take your guns, take your +pistols! Noble sheikhs, mount your horses; arm yourselves with the lance +and the sabre: meet to-morrow at Deyr al Kamar. Zeal of God! zeal of +combat!’ This summons, heard in the neighbouring villages,” continues +the same author, “was repeated there; and as the whole country is nothing +but a chain of lofty mountains and deep valleys, the proclamation passed +through its length and breadth in a few hours. These cries, from the +stillness of the night, the long-resounding echoes, and the nature of the +subject, had something awful and terrible in their effect. Three days +after, fifteen thousand men were assembled at Deyr al Kamar, and +operations might have been immediately commenced.” + +To strengthen their respective clans, is the Druses’ main object through +life; and to effect this, they almost invariably marry amongst +themselves—preferring their own relations with poverty, to the richest +dowry with a foreigner. Their creed admits of but one wife; but they +allow of divorces. If a Druse says to his wife, “Go to your father’s +house,” and does not say to her, “Come back,” it is considered a divorce. +Their jealousy far outstrips the Mussulman’s: any conjugal infidelity is +certain of being requited by death: no intercession, however powerful, +can avail aught in these cases; even where fathers have made +intercession, brothers have become the executioners of their own sisters. +Any man can divorce his wife upon paying a certain sum; but divorces are +of very rare occurrence. + +The every-day life of the Druse is monotonous in the extreme; even their +children at an early age inherit their insipid manner of life, and leave +the healthful recreation of a good game at _damah_, to sit down in a +circle, and ape their parents in discussing politics. The Druse, like +most of the natives of Syria, is an early riser; and the first thing he +does after he has gone through his morning ablutions, is to command his +wife to set before him a large bowl of freshly-drawn goat’s milk, or +_dibs_. In this he sops his bread; and making a hearty and wholesome +breakfast, shoulders his gun, sticks his kanjur in his girdle, lights his +pipe, and then goes forth to attend to his daily occupations till +mid-day. If it be the season to plough, he harnesses his oxen, and +treads heavily after the furrows till nigh upon mid-day, at which time +his wife or one of the family brings him out his substantial mid-day +repast. In this interval he has perhaps rested himself half a dozen +times, to sit and smoke a pipe: or, if a fellow-creedsman passed, he has +stopped to exchange a few words—complain of the heat, ask the news, the +lowest price quoted for wheat, and so on; but you seldom hear them +laughing or joking with one another, and never by any chance singing or +whistling; they have no idea of a tune, no taste for music, unless it be +the music of money rattling in their pockets; and this has greater charms +for them than the pipe of Tityrus had over the sylvan woods. At this +mid-day meal there is another fresh bowl of _laban_ milk in addition to a +goodly supply of _borghol_, and, in summer, cucumber and some chillies, +or the batingan stuffed with hashed mutton and rice. + +As the sun sinks behind the conical tops of the western hills, the Druse +unyokes his cattle and drives them homeward, himself shouldering the +plough. Now it is that, if ever he enjoys himself, the Druse indulges in +a little relaxation. If he be fortunate enough to be possessed of a +supply of powder and shot, he deviates from his right path, leaving the +oxen to find their way home untended, and shouts and throws stones into +every bush and down every glade he passes. Sometimes a hare starts up, +sometimes a covey of partridges, or, may be, a jackal; but, whatever the +game chance to be, he fires, and that with so steady and correct an aim, +as to be almost certain of securing the victim. Even jackals’ skins are +valuable, and will fetch their price. + +Of an evening they assemble at one anothers’ houses, and there, with pipe +in hand, seated in such an attitude that their knees are on a level with +their nose, they talk politics by the hour. They are generally a +dissatisfied, gloomy, and grumbling people; and their usual topic of +conversation is exactly what John Bull is so much laughed at for, viz., +the hardness of the times. They pull to pieces the pasha, the emir, the +effendis—lament over the prospects of a bad silk crop, or a worse wheat +harvest, speaking feelingly of the general lack of money—foretell that +things will be certain to go on from bad to worse—predict a +famine—prophesy a murrain amongst the cattle—see in the yellow tinge of +the western atmosphere the cholera—smell out of the heavy night-dew an +interminable catalogue of maladies, as absurd and unknown as any of the +foregoing calamities; and having worked themselves up to an extreme pitch +of wretchedness, they disperse for the night, and retrace their steps to +their respective homes, croaking the while, or hooting gloomily to one +another just as a parcel of ravens would croak or owls hoot as they wing +their way to roost, when the distant growl of thunder foretells the +coming storm. + +The Druses are great hypocrites in religious matters. One of their +religious books gives them this liberty, for it says:—“_Embrace the +religion of those who have power over you_; _for such is the pleasure of +our_ MAOULA, _till he_, _to whom the best times are known_, _shall +unsheathe the sword_, _and display the power of his unity_.” Hence with +the Turks, they pretend to be devout Moslems—fast when they fast, and +feast when they feast. With the Christians they are equally devoted to +the Adrah Mariam—the Virgin Mary; and in private they despise and detest +both: but I believe that the Druses have really great faith and +confidence in the English, whom they suppose to be all Protestants; and +their idea of a Protestant is that their religion is a species of +freemasonry, which very much resembles their own. Of late years +political struggles on the mountains have served rather to strengthen +this belief; for the Druses were invariably supported by the English, and +the native attachés, agents, and other people, not only of the Consulates +in the neighbouring towns, but also English travellers, lost no +opportunity of impressing this fact upon the minds of the Druses’ who +were already predisposed to such a belief from the fact of a tradition +long existent amongst them, that many of their noblest families were +descended from some of the princes amongst the Crusaders. + +The Druses never introduce the subject of their religion before others; +that is to say, never in such a form as to hold it forth as an argument, +or an inducement for others to become proselytes, or to inform strangers +of their doctrines, but they confidently affirm that a great number of +their co-religionists inhabit the vast continent of India, and declare +that they are to be met with even in China, from which they believe they +themselves came. + +They suppose, that in England there are to this day many of the Akkals, +or initiated, but of later years their confidence has been much shaken; +and _apropos_ of this, I quote an extract of a letter from one of the +Akkals of the Druses, sent to me from Lebanon in 1845:— + + “There are many English travellers, and some men apparently of much + wisdom, who have visited us and conversed on subjects of religion; + and they endeavour to persuade us that in their country there are + many people who profess a creed similar to our own: this was + particularly mentioned by a tall English emir. I wish you would + enquire into this matter, and write us your opinion clearly; and + should the report be verified, the existence of such co-religionists + would at once entitle us to proclaim the protection of the English + upon the same grounds as the Maronites are protected by France.” + +It is said that, in the official report of M. Desméloises, then a French +Consul in Syria, this belief of the Druses that they were allied to, and +descended from, noble European families, was found serviceable to the +French agents, when the allied forces appeared off the coast of Syria, +for the purpose of expelling Ibrahim Pasha and the Egyptian troops; and +they acted upon the imagination of the Druses so powerfully, that little +or no inducement was requisite to cause them to side with the Europeans. + +There is one thing to which the Druses are much addicted, and which sadly +deteriorates from their general character for civilization—this is, their +fondness for raw meat. Whenever a gazelle is shot, or a kid killed, the +raw kidneys and heart are luxuries for which the Druse epicure will +contend with angry words; and such is the force of example, that even +Christians in the neighbourhood have adopted this system of cannibalism, +washing down every mouthful with a glass of strong _arakey_. European +authors accuse the Christians of the plains, and especially the women, of +being guilty of a like atrocity, saying that they eat meat in their +_kubbas_, but the fact is what meat they use in these is first so finely +sliced up, and then so unmercifully thumped, that it becomes a perfect +paste, and the very friction and heat more than half cook it; besides +which, this meat is mixed with chillies, onions, and borghol, and the +proportion of meat to wheat is one to ten. + +Outwardly the Druses keep up the appearance of friendship with their +neighbours, but the intrigues of political agents, and the wary cunning +of Roman priests, have of late years tended sadly to interrupt the +harmony that existed between the Druses and the Maronites. + +The Yezidees, of whom there are some thousands in the country next claim +attention. They are most numerous in Koordistan, where they are all +comprised in one general body. In Syria, however, we are accustomed to +divide them into three tribes—the worshippers of the sun, the Shemisees; +the worshippers of the devil, the Sheytanees; and the cut-throats. I do +not mean to say that the latter portion are greater cut-throats than +their co-religionists of the other two sections, for like the +Mahommedans, with whom they come chiefly into collision, the whole of the +three divisions are equally distinguished by the same murderous +inclinations. Like the religion of the Druses, that of the Yezidees is +an indescribable mixture of nearly all the religious creeds of the East +and West. They respect Christ and the Christian saints; but they do not +disavow Mahommed and Moses. They baptize their children, but they +conform also to the Hebrew practice of circumcision. They commemorate +the birth of the Saviour, but they also celebrate the feast of the +Passover with all the forms and solemnities customary among the Jews; and +they also abstain from all the food which is considered unclean by the +Israelite. While worshipping but one God, they profess profound +veneration for Ahriman, the prince of darkness, and they also adore the +fiery element, bowing before the rising sun. In praying, they are +careful to kneel with their faces towards the East. Indeed, it would +seem as if, doubtful of salvation under a simple faith of their own, the +presiding minds of the Yezidees had collected the principal points from +all religions in the world, in order to make sure of the right one. Some +of them even do not hesitate to make an avowal of this kind. The most +peculiar feature of their religion, is the extreme respect which they pay +to the devil, who is never mentioned by his right name, but is always +mysteriously spoken of _as the great incognito_, _the bird of Paradise_, +and whose worship is always carried on after sunset. I am assured too, +that his Satanic eminence is always present on these sacred occasions, +and is accustomed to acknowledge the honours paid to him by his credulous +worshippers by a yell or scream of a most unearthly kind, its effect +being to prostrate on their faces the whole of the parties present. +Their head-priest possesses an extraordinary amount of influence over the +whole body. + +The Yezidees are a brave, open, confiding, honest, industrious, civil +race, combining with these good qualities, however, an inordinate passion +for warfare, civil and national, and a great proneness to robbery and +pillage on a large scale. They are actuated by their intense contempt +and hatred towards the Mahommedans to the committal of many excesses +against the followers of the Prophet. Indeed, they are firmly convinced +that they cannot perform a more meritorious action—an action more +advantageous to themselves, both in this and the next life, and they +absolutely take pleasure in ridding the world of a Mahommedan. This +spirit of hatred is fully returned by its objects, who detest the +Yezidees, and who consider the very name to be synonymous with all that +is evil and treacherous. + +It has been stated of late years, that the traditions which exist among +this people, and which tend to establish their descent from the ancient +Hebrews, are founded on fact, that they are in reality a remnant of the +lost tribes of Israel. I am not sufficiently learned on this subject to +trace the links of the connection, but I may unhesitatingly state, that +the conviction of its truth is rapidly spreading among the people +themselves. + +I shall close this account of these sects in Syria with a brief mention +of the Ansyreeh or Nosairiyeh and I am more inclined to say a few words +about them, from the fact that a systematic effort is likely to be made +for their conversion. These tribes also inhabit the mountain districts; +but they live in much greater isolation than the other religious bodies, +and in consequence, their numbers are not to be ascertained with anything +approaching to precision. They do not inhabit any particular province, +but I am perfectly well aware, as has been stated by one writer on this +subject, that there are several hundred Nosairiyeh resident in the small +village of Salahiyeh, about one mile from Damascus. They are most +numerous in the range of mountains north of Mount Lebanon; where I can +assure my readers that it is a task of no slight difficulty, and even +great danger to penetrate, and it has very rarely indeed been +successfully accomplished. In illustration of this fact, I may narrate +here the experience of a friend of mine, who desired personally to obtain +all the information concerning this people, which a trip into the most +northern parts of the Lebanon could procure. Having made all his +arrangements for the purpose, he departed, provided with a passport, or +firman from the Turkish authorities, addressed to all the sheikhs of the +mountain tribes, ordering them to show the bearer every civility, and to +afford him every protection during his journey. Armed with this +document, he proceeded on his journey without much apprehension. During +the first day’s travel among the hills, he found the firman most +effective, the sheikhs lending him every aid to get on. But he had no +sooner left the immediate limits within which the people came into direct +and frequent contact with the authorities, than he found the case was +very different; argument and entreaty became necessary, where the mere +sight of the firman had been formerly sufficient to procure the +gratification of his wishes. Having succeeded in obtaining quarters for +the night in the abode of a small sheikh, who condescended to be +hospitable to the stranger, my friend soon got into conversation with his +entertainer, and ultimately explained the whole object of his journey. +The Sheikh listened in silence, twisting his moustachios with Eastern +solemnity, and displaying some astonishment in his features at what he +evidently considered the very hazardous course which my friend seemed +bent on pursuing. After supper, the sheikh returned to the subject, and +laboured seriously to impress upon his guest’s mind the nature of the +numerous dangers which he must encounter if he continued his journey. To +the sheikh’s argument respecting the want of all roads, the ruggedness of +the mountain paths, sudden precipices, and dangerous fords, the former +laughingly rejoined, that he relied on a stout pair of legs, a firm hand, +and a steady eye, and that he would not shrink from his object deterred +by such difficulties, which a strong and bold man might readily vanquish; +and in reply to the sheikh’s still more serious sketch of the dangerous +character of the tribes through whose territories he must pass, my +friend, still laughing, flourished what he considered his all-powerful +firman. The sheikh asked permission to read it; it was granted, and +having perused it, returned it to the owner. After some moments’ silence +he rose from his mat, and approaching my friend, said to him, in an under +tone: “Friend, your firman certainly may procure you protection and +assistance on your outward journey, but it says nothing concerning your +return; be advised, retrace your steps and get your firman amended, if +you must inquire into our condition and habits, but you would do much +better to remain among your friends. We Nosairiyeh do not like +strangers.” My friend stared at this address, which many of my readers +may consider most lawyer-like, and worthy the nice distinctions between +words which I am told the English lawyers delight to make; but it had its +effect, for we are yet without the full account of these people which my +friend would have furnished us with. On the following morning he +retraced his steps; and on his arrival he appears to have forgotten to +apply for any alteration or addition to his firman, and to have preferred +the inglorious ease of home to the dangerous search after knowledge among +unexplored mountains, inhabited by barbarous infidels. + +In connection with this subject I may mention, that several travellers +have been induced to state, that there exists a peculiar religious sect +in Syria who are called Womb-worshippers, but I am sure that the only +persons who deserve that name are the Nosairiyeh. The occasions on which +this peculiar part of their religion is developed are extremely limited; +indeed, I believe that it takes place but once a year, when the majority +of the whole people assemble together in a cave, which is set apart for +the purpose, and which is known only to themselves. I can add, moreover, +that no one is admitted to these rites, who is not acquainted with the +distinguishing sign or token by which they recognise each other. When +they are assembled, a variety of prayers adapted expressly to the +occasion are recited; and after what I may term the religious portion of +the service is concluded, the men and women present have recourse to the +most indelicate proceedings, which are the peculiar forms of the worship +of the womb. By some, however, the Nosairiyeh are considered to be an +aboriginal tribe, which has survived the many changes that have swept +over the country, and have preserved such peculiar traits as distinguish +them from all its other inhabitants. From what I have heard, I am +inclined to believe that this is the case; and I also feel disposed to +regard them as probably a sect of heretical Christians, who having +originally retired among the mountains to secure the free exercise of +their opinions, thus became isolated; and that their early faith became +more and more corrupted by the influence of time, and the circumstances +and changes going on around them, since like some other similar sects +they still preserve a vague idea of some of the leading facts of +Christianity, though mixed with notions not only false but absurd. + +They speak of the incarnation and crucifixion of our Lord as of one among +many others. They have, I understand, also a custom of celebrating the +sacrament by giving to the communicants a portion of meat and wine; added +to this, they have mystical ceremonies and prayers. They believe in the +transmigration of souls, and also in astrology and magic, also observing, +it is said, many of the religious seasons and festivals peculiar to the +Jews; nor are they at all reluctant, when any object is to be attained, +to profess the doctrines and carry out the practice of Mahommedanism. +But whatever may be the essential doctrines of their religion, there is +no doubt that their morality is of the very lowest character; passionate +and violent, their hatred of their rulers is only equalled by that which +the different factions among them bear to each other, the most sanguinary +feuds breaking out every now and then among them, carried on with the +deadliest animosity, and accompanied by fearful acts of murder and +revenge. + +About a year since, I happened to be at a convent about two days’ journey +from Tripoli; and while there, I had an opportunity of seeing a number of +these curious people. Some days previous to my arrival, a young woman +belonging to them had been brought to the convent in a state of mental +aberration. I ought to say that the convent is consecrated to Saint +George, who is believed to possess especial power for the cure of +madness, and for whom the Nosairiyeh, as well as most of the mountain +tribes, profess great respect and veneration—carrying out their +professions practically, by the payment of an annual donation of oil, +corn, and fruits, for the use of the convent. The young woman in +question, having been confined in chains during her whole stay in one of +the cells behind the altar, and kept on very low diet indeed, was +restored to reason. I will not say what part of the treatment had been +most efficacious in curing her, but the devout believers in the power of +the saint, declared that he had visited her during the night, and by his +presence driven out the evil spirit. Her friends, being made acquainted +with her miraculous recovery, came to reclaim her just after my arrival. +Contrary to the general Eastern custom, there was a large number of women +mixed up with the men, moving apparently on a footing of perfect equality +with the ruder sex. While they remained within sight of the convent, +before and after reclaiming their recovered companion, they appeared to +care for nothing besides dancing and singing. One of their dances was +very much like an English country dance, with a great deal of shaking +hands. I found them to be a powerfully-built, muscular race, with open +honest countenances; they were all thoroughly equipped and armed. In +their dress, the women differed from the general costume of the country, +inasmuch as they wore very long and very flowing garments, of a kind +usually only worn by men. + +Nothing, however, can exceed the degradation in which the female sex are +held among the Nosairiyeh. They are regarded in the same light as their +horses and other domestic animals; and to the practice of polygamy among +them, and the drudgery and ill-usage to which their wives are condemned, +may be traced the origin of the darkest and most repulsive portions of +the picture they present. The untiring perseverance and praiseworthy +zeal of missionary labourers may yet succeed in leading them to a +knowledge of better things. I could repeat here what I have always +stated in respect to such endeavours, that schools must be the first step +towards such an end; and that even before the subject of religion is +touched upon, they must be taught such a course of secular studies as +will, by expanding their mind and strengthening their reasoning +faculties, prepare them to receive that priceless seed, which it would be +unwise to cast beforehand in such a weedy soil, among the thorns and the +thistles that would choke its growth and cause it to perish. + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. +APPEARANCE AND COSTUMES OF THE PEOPLE. + + +I fear my readers will consider that I have been rather tedious in the +last few chapters, but what I have said I consider indispensable to put +them in possession of the real state of my beloved country; and to make +them generally acquainted with the character, the religion, and the +manners of its inhabitants. I shall now devote a few pages to a +description of the appearance and costumes of the different races. + +The large tract of territory extending from Aleppo, in the north, as far +as the desert upon the outskirts of Gaza and Hebron, in the south, is +inhabited by the variety of sects and people, whose peculiar religious +ceremonies and occupations have been described in the preceding chapter. +Commencing with the district of Aleppo, we shall find inhabiting that +city,—first, the Aleppine-Greeks, most of whom are, by creed Roman +Catholics, and by profession merchants, silk-weavers, and manufacturers +of fine silken robes, such as are worn by the majority of the +inhabitants, male and female. The peculiar costume of the natives of +Aleppo is the most striking feature of that truly oriental and +magnificent city. On a feast-day, between the hours of prayer, the +gardens in the environs of the city are thronged with crowds of well +dressed men and women; some walking, some riding, and others seated on +their _seggadeh_, or rugs, under the pleasant shades of the fragrant +walnut-trees, with the _chibuk_ or _narghili_ in their hands, or else +cowering upon the bank of the river, angling for fish. We will, with the +reader’s permission, place ourselves beside a merry group who are +musically inclined, and hope to attract the attention of another group of +laughing girls, who, though well muffled up in their white _izars_, still +shew sufficient of well-proportioned features to convince the beholder +that beauty lurks beneath the muffling veil. However, we take our +station here, not to watch them, but those that pass to and fro, and to +guess with the utmost precision, by their costumes, what their belief is, +and in what peculiar calling of life they are engaged; first, then, comes +an old gentleman riding on a white Egyptian ass—the very fact of his +being the possessor of one of these valuable animals at once stamps him +with respectability; but apart from this, the tall _kulpak_, or Persian +cap, on his head, and the long, loose flowing robes proclaim him to be a +descendant from one of the most ancient, wealthy and respectable families +of Aleppo. The privilege of wearing this peculiar kind of head-gear, +exempts the wearer, by virtue of a firman obtained from the sublime Porte +many centuries ago, from the capitation tax, and many other minor +disagreeables to which the less fortunate rayahs are sometimes exposed. +This firman was obtained either by interest, or for some service rendered +by their ancestors to the Turkish government, at a period when all the +rich trade of the Indies passed through Aleppo, and when, as even up to +the latest period, that unfortunate city has been exposed to the +incursion of the wild desert tribes, who frequently molested the Baghdad +caravans, and even broke into the khans and strongholds, carrying off +warehoused merchandise to a considerable amount. The resistance offered +to these marauders by the wealthier merchants of Aleppo, led to their +obtaining special favors from the Porte; and these favors, be it said to +the honor of the Turkish Sultans, have descended as an heirloom from +father to son even down to the present day, and the insignia, as already +mentioned, is the _kulpak_ which yonder citizen carries on his head. By +creed he is a Roman Catholic, and devout in the observance of fasts and +festivals; by profession a _serraff_, or money changer, and any of the +European merchants who may require a few thousand piastres on an +emergency, will go to this man, and he will advance the requisite sum +instanter; his business-office is not much longer than an ordinary +sentinel’s box, but then his house, which is in the suburbs of the city, +is replete with comfort and elegance, and amongst other furniture and +requisites, you will find massive porcelain jars, and other equally +costly relics of the former Indian traffic, which have been handed down +from father to son, and which are never brought into active service, save +and except upon festive occasions when a marriage or a christening is +celebrated in the family. + +Next to this wealthy aristocrat, our eyes encounter a couple of natives +on foot, both well clad, with rich silk scarfs girt round them but on +whose hands and arms the indelible dark blue tinge at once indicates +their occupation, viz., that of dyers; generally speaking, they profess, +in most parts of Syria, the tenets of the Greek church, and they are +almost a peculiar people of themselves, inhabiting the suburbs of a town +for the sake of convenience, and in order to be in the immediate vicinity +of level verdant plains, on which, during the summer months, they stretch +the dyed cloths to dry. It is seldom, however, that these people make +use of any other dyes than the commonest blue and black—such as is well +adapted, from its inferior materials, to meet the meagerly supplied +purses of the greater mass of the population of Syria, blue _shintians_ +being invariably the every-day costume of masons, mechanics, +day-labourers, and peasants occupied in agricultural pursuits; hence it +is that the profits on labour are small and insignificant, the occupation +is incessant, and the demand never fluctuating. From this circumstance +also, the indigo imported from England and other parts of Europe +invariably meets with a ready and profitable sale amongst this class of +people, who are the merchant’s best and surest customers, and whose +annual consumption, reckoning one year with another, so little varies, +that a careful trader might calculate to within a few pounds’ weight, the +exact annual demand for indigo of any given village in Syria, and +accordingly carry on a safe and profitable trade in this one article +alone. These dyers usually marry, and are given in marriage amongst +themselves, and the children are brought up to the trade of their +fathers; but in all other respects, they are the same as the rest of the +Greek community, attending regularly at their churches, strict observers +of fasts and festivals, and mingling freely with all their fellow +citizens of whatever creed or calling. + +Next to these comes the sedate Armenian, clad in a sombre grey cloak, +trimmed with ermine, and a slovenly black handkerchief bound round his +almost threadbare _gibbeh_; he is walking with a countryman, and a fellow +creedsman of his own; and though the latter is the better clad and +cleanlier looking, he is far from being the wealthier; they are both, +however, on the same intimate footing as though equals in birth, riches, +and station; both out more for exercise and to talk about business, than +from any wish to join in the recreations that are passing around them. +The first man—the meaner looking of the two—is very possibly possessor of +about 20,000 piastres; he is a banker of the Pachalik, and right-hand man +of all the Pashas who come into power; from them he derives no small +profit, but it is not from this source alone that his revenues flow; even +the poor man who is now his companion, is one among the many of his +countrymen, who pay into his coffers an annual tax on certain stipulated +conditions. In Aleppo, and all over Turkey and Syria, almost every cook +in European and wealthy Oriental families, is an Armenian; these +Armenians come from their own country in search of employment, and on +arriving at Aleppo, being friendless, and without any recommendation as +to character, etc., they seek out those who profess the same creed as +themselves, and by them are introduced to the protection of a banker, who +will guarantee their honesty, provided the man pays him an annual +per-centage upon his wages. This is agreed to, and a compact being made, +the _serraff_ himself exerts his best influence amongst the circles of +his acquaintance to obtain for his protegée a situation in an opulent +family. As the English are generally the best pay-masters, he first +tries them; if he succeeds, the young man is placed under the tuition of +a professed cook of his own creed, and his career in life commences. The +banker adds the man’s name to the thick folio volume, in which he has +already registered those of the numerous tax-payers that help to enrich +his coffers; and though on an average one with another, they only pay +about twenty piastres per annum, still, considering the vast numbers who +are under this obligation, the total amount derived from this source +makes a considerable sum. On the other hand the banker, who possesses a +certain extent of influence with the Pashas, stands by his countrymen in +any case of emergency, and if needs must, is ready to advance any money +to procure the release of a delinquent, or to help in his flight, as the +Armenians are extremely jealous of their character for honesty and +integrity, and it may with truth be observed, that with very few +exceptions, they make excellent servants—faithful, steady, and +industrious, and are seldom, if ever, addicted to liquor; if they do +cheat their own masters, they take care that no one else in the household +shall. And this is a notorious fact, particularly in Aleppo, that the +prices of meat and vegetables, etc., are fixed by a tariff every year +amongst the Armenian servants, and as their name is legion, and every +second family has an Armenian cook, the greater mass of the people +usually pay at the same rate or proportion for their provisions, though +it is well-known that the poorer classes obtain the same supplies from +the very same tradesmen with whom the wealthier families deal, at a lower +price; still, for convenience’ sake, these peccadilloes are winked at, +and the Armenians justify their petty thefts, and accommodate their +consciences to their perpetration, by the reflection, that if they did +not cheat, _others_ would, and thus further encourage dishonesty amongst +the rest of the servants. + +The Armenians have passed by, and another couple of individuals attract +our attention; their faces are long and sallow, their features marked, +eyes sunken, beard profuse, and in the contracted brow there is much that +indicates selfish thoughts; the meanness of their scant attire, is only +to be surpassed by the filthiness of their general appearance. Did you +notice yonder young Mahommedan spit on the ground, or in the faces of +these two as they passed him, while he petulantly muttered, that this day +would prove to him an unlucky one, from the moment he had encountered +these two men? You will ask the reason of this; it is because they are +of that once mighty people, Yahoodee, or Israel, whom Mahommedans regard +as the cursed of God, the refuse of the earth, who are treated with less +consideration than the meagre curs that slink along the streets; for a +Jew does not dare to pass by on the right hand of the Moslem. Yet these +Hebrews are now so well inured to hardship and insult, that they wisely +pursue their way, regardless of all around, their whole soul wrapt up in +the one absorbing thought—gain. If words and blows are sometimes +inflicted upon them by the lords of the land, they at least have the +gratification of knowing that there is not one amongst their brethren, +but who avails himself of every opportunity to swindle and defraud every +customer with whom they may chance to have transactions; and even the +coins which pass through their hands never escape without being +diminished in weight. As an instance of their innate propensity for +defrauding, I will record an anecdote which occurred at Damascus some +years ago. A Jew having been convicted of coining gold _saadeeyeh_ (nine +piastres), was punished by the government by having half his beard shaved +off, and mounted on an ass, with his face turned towards the tail, and a +European hat on his head; in this way he was conducted through the city, +preceded by a crier, proclaiming his crime. Through bribery and interest +he was set at liberty, and shortly afterwards recommenced his nefarious +practices; the second time, however, he resorted to the filing of coin, +and being again discovered, the Cadi ordered his hands to be cut off, as +the most effectual means of preventing a recurrence of such tricks. Even +this did not put a atop to his cheating, for having initiated his son +into his arts, they together devised the mode of dissolving a part of the +money in strong acid. Being for the third time discovered, both father +and son were hanged. + +The very name _Yahoodee_, or _Jew_, is tantamount in the East to +swindler. Yet it is a most remarkable fact, that fallen and degraded +though the race be—their position only equivalent to a state of perpetual +serfdom—you never meet with a Jew who gains his livelihood by manual +labour, or by begging for his bread. They neither till the ground, nor +follow the plough, nor yet exercise themselves in any agricultural +pursuits; neither are there amongst them day-labourers, or mechanics; and +all this arises from the species of Freemasonry which links these fallen +people together, and induces them to assist and support one another in +times of the greatest need and difficulty. Hence it arises that every +Jew, from an early age is, as it were, launched into the world by the +assistance of his co-religionists. They usually begin life in the +pastry-cook line; for to sell fruits, would be like carrying coals to +Newcastle, in such a country as Syria, where every man has his own +garden, or, if he be not possessed of this, the markets are stocked to +overflowing. After this, they become petty tradesmen, and with a +stock-in-trade of some half-dozen loaves of sugar, a few pounds of +coffee, spices, etc., the whole perhaps not exceeding three or four +hundred piastres, he migrates to the surrounding villages, barters or +sells, comes back again and replenishes his stock, and so goes on adding +mite to mite till he is enabled to set up a _Dekkan_ in the bazaar. The +wheel of fortune having commenced turning, he climbs up warily, and it +may be slowly, yet securely, to an ample independence for his old age; +and there are many very wealthy Hebrew families in Syria, whose origin +might be traced to such as just I have described. When a Jew has once +amassed wealth, it seldom if ever happens that he falls low in the scale +again. + +In later years, the condition of this persecuted people has been much +improved in the Ottoman dominions, and they may be now said to enjoy all +those advantages and privileges which are afforded to other foreigners +residing within the limits of the Turkish dominions; hence, it is to be +hoped, if we may be permitted to judge by the signs of the times, that +the day is not far off when they will be again restored to their land, +and when in the words of the prophet, it may be said, “_They shall be my +people_, _and I will be their God_.” In fact a society has been formed +in England for the purchasing of land in Palestine to enable Jews to +settle there. But these privileges have not always been enjoyed by this +unhappy people; not more than twenty years ago the barbarities practised +upon them seem almost incredible. A friend told me of an incident that +occurred in Servia when a famine, or a pestilence, had ceased to ravage +the country, there was a grand procession and thanksgiving, and in the +edict of the Governor, it was not only proclaimed, but carried into +execution, that at every quarter of a mile a donkey and a Jew should be +sacrificed; thus classing them together, and ruthlessly shedding the +blood of two of the most unoffending creatures of the Creator. But the +Jews and their sorrows and persecutions are, I trust, passing by, as a +firman has lately been obtained from the Turkish government, through the +influence of Sir M. Montefiore, which secures the Jews like privileges +with the Christians; this boon was presented to them by Col. Churchill, +who, in 1841, during his official residence in Damascus, exerted himself +strenuously and successfully to relieve them from the consequences of the +persecution they had undergone in the well known affair of Padre Thomaso. + +And now comes a stately horseman, whose very steed seems to paw the +ground more proudly than others, as though conscious of the fact that he +carries on his back one of the lords of the land. This is a Turkish +Effendi, his long loose cloth cloak is thickly trimmed with ermine; his +horse-trappings are magnificent—his countenance full of importance and +gravity—his beard black and wagging to and fro in a haughty commanding +style; he looks neither to the right nor to the left—acknowledges no +salutations, though the people rise as he passes, and bow their heads +subserviently to the earth; behind him rides a gaily dressed youth, +carrying in his hand the ready lit _chibuk_; look at the amber +mouthpiece, richly set with brilliants and emeralds, and then you may +form some conception of the importance and wealth of this great +functionary. The occupations of the Turks are various, for being lords +of the land they and they alone, in most parts of the country, occupy the +posts of Government. Amongst them, we may first rank the independent +beys and effendis—nobles of the land, wealthy from inheritance, and most +generally possessed of extensive gardens and plantations, these are the +aristocracy—they have no cares as to how they shall live—no thought as to +their sustenance—their mansions are capacious—their studs splendid—their +repasts sumptuous—their harems filled with the choicest flowers of +Georgia and Circassia. They regularly attend the mosques, and keep their +fasts and festivals, and if they have anything to trouble their minds, it +most assuredly arises from a similar inconvenience to that which the +_fool_ in the Scriptures was exposed—viz., the want of extensive +granaries wherein to warehouse their fast increasing riches. Next to +these we may reckon Government employés, who, though virtually invested +with greater authority than these beys (who hold no official position), +in reality are subjected to their whims and caprices. Of this class are +the Pashas, Cadis, etc., etc.,—men who are generally well off so long as +they remain in office, but whose position would be very dubious indeed +were they once deprived of their main staff in life—their salaries. + +The rest of the Moslem population may be divided into three classes, +viz., merchants, tradesmen, and household domestics; the latter if they +be Mahommedans, will seldom serve the native Christians, though they will +sometimes place themselves under European masters in order to be +protected from taxation, or being enlisted into the army. Of the former, +from the time of the Caliphs, Turkey has been celebrated for the wealth +of her merchants, and for their upright, honest method of transacting +business. However, though the uprightness of the old Mahommedan merchant +remains his wealth is on the decline, and is passing into other hands. +Most of the opulent merchants of Baghdad are Moslems who, regularly once +a year subject themselves to a long and inconvenient journey to Aleppo +and return so as to superintend and watch over their own interests; and +like the old tales of the Arabian Nights, rich scented spices spread +their odour over the desert far and wide. Besides these other merchants +from Mecca turn a devout pilgrimage into a mercantile transaction, and +carry back with them many rare articles—otto of roses, and other scents, +which usually attract a multitude of eager purchasers. The trades +followed by most Mahommedans, are those of carpenters, locksmiths, +tanners, shoemakers, sawyers, saddlers, and saddle embroiderers. Of +these, the saddlers and the shoemakers rank first. The carpenters are +expert tradesmen, and Damascus abounds with turners, known to bring work +to a highly finished state. + +And now these two have passed before us, and a fresh sight attracts +attention. Fierce-looking fellows, three in number, now appear, their +heads girt with long flowing silk handkerchiefs, of a bright yellow +colour; their beards are thick, black and curly; their features +sun-burnt; their eyebrows knit, and there is a lurking savage look in +their eyes which speaks volumes of treachery and bloodshed. Long loose +striped dresses with horse-hair girths, loose shintians, and the ordinary +Syrian red boots, complete their costume. They are mounted on Arab +steeds of the purest breed; slung by their left side is a scimitar of +fine Damascene steel; each carries on his shoulder a long polished +_Roomah_, or lance, from which hangs tassels of various gay colors. +These horseman are Bedouins of the Desert, who perhaps, have come hither +to spy out the land under the pretence of a friendly visit on mercantile +business; but what is more likely to be the reason, to find out when next +a caravan, or travellers, will pass through the desert. No one fears +them now, since their number is too small, when compared to the crowds +which are on the alert and passing to and fro. Still, these Bedouins may +even at this very moment be plotting a similar carnage and attack to that +which was made at Aleppo, so recently as 1850. Notwithstanding the +ferocity of their nature, “their hand still being against every man,” yet +they never are guilty of a breach of faith or friendship. As an instance +of this, an Arab was once at Damascus, and received civilities from a +Damascene, who gave him some bread and tobacco. About two years passed, +when it so happened that this man was going to Aleppo with a caravan, +which was attacked, and, happily for all, the traveller was recognised by +one of the Bedouins, who proved to be the very man who had received +hospitality at Damascus. + +Next on our panoramic sketch we find two hardy labourers, fine robust +looking men; these are the _fellahen_, and their vocation in life is +restricted to tilling the ground; but there are some amongst them who +follow the occupation of farriers, and some few in the larger towns are +blacksmiths, tinkers, and shopkeepers; but those that occupy our +attention at present wear too healthy an aspect to be taken for citizens. +They are peasants from a neighbouring village, and to them Sunday is a +day of rest; during the weekdays they are early risers (up with the lark, +and even before this “_bird hath shaken the dew-drop from her wing_”); to +them sleep has been a boon indeed—a luxury that few who are not +accustomed to hard manual labour can be supposed to enjoy. The careful +thrifty wife, although her husband is an early riser, was up before him, +lighting the fire, and preparing his early meal. He gets up, and goes +through his ablutions; and I may here remark, that Europeans in general, +and especially the English, form a very incorrect notion as to the habits +of the poorer class of natives in Syria, since few people are more +careful in their rigid adherence to cleanliness, though their brown +sun-burnt skin gives strangers an idea to the contrary. His breakfast +consists of a few loaves, resembling Scotch cakes, on which cheese, and +on fast days olives, mashed together, are carefully rolled up; sometimes, +as an extra dainty, a little cold stew from yesterday’s dinner, or a +small dish of _leban_, gives a relish to his keen appetite; and having +finished this he shoulders his plough, loosens his cattle, and followed +close at the heels by his house-dog, goes forth to his labour till +evening. He has generally arrived at the field of action before the sun +gets up to look at him, and he never leaves it till the fiery sun, red +with heat, has sunk below the horizon. Truly, a labourer in Syria is a +living specimen of the curse brought upon mankind by the disobedience of +Adam—“_He earns his daily bread by the sweat of his brow_.” Every day, +save on fasts and festivals, his toil never ceases. At the commencement +of the year, his first and most laborious occupation is that of rearing +silk-worms, of which I shall now proceed to give a description. + + + + +CHAPTER XX. +THE OCCUPATIONS OF THE PEOPLE. + + +It is early in spring. The snow that last week lay ancle deep in the +plains and valleys of Mount Lebanon, has rapidly dissolved under the +genial heat of the April sun. Storms that wildly raged along the +sea-girt coast, outriders of Æolus, as he swept by in his hurricane-car, +drawn by equinoctial gales; these have been lulled into repose, and the +turbulent billows of the deep have forgotten their rough playmate, and +are hushed into tranquility. The winter garb of the forest is fast being +set aside; the waters of the river flow pleasantly in the warm glow of +sunshine; feathered songsters are tuning up against the great spring +jubilee; the linnet and the bulbul now call to mind snatches of sweet +carols many months forgotten; nature awakes to the bright morning of the +year; with light heart the bee sucks from early opening flowers; with the +passing song, the peasant trudges forward to his daily labour; oxen are +yoked to the plough; the earth—softened with excessive moisture—yields +readily to the deep furrows made by the friendly implement; long hidden +seeds are turned up to the light of day, and brought forth from nature’s +storehouse to supply the wants of the hungry feathered multitude; grass +springs up almost perceptibly beneath our feet; the swallow has returned +from his distant journeyings, and brought with him a retinue of gaily +dressed butterflies. The sun grows warmer from day to day; the sky +remains clear and cloudless; the first week of April has fled on the +rapid wings of time, and we are fairly launched into all the delights of +an incomparable Syrian spring—hie we forth early on the morrow to breathe +the pure untainted air—to revel in the sweet odours wafted around us from +countless flowers—to watch the master-touch of that great and beneficent +Creator, who has left no work unfinished. Manifold indeed are His works, +and in wisdom has He made them all. + +The morrow has come, we are up and abroad before the sun has cast his +first mantle of light over the pleasant waters of the deep blue sea. We +saunter into one of the many white mulberry plantations that surround us +on every side, and observe that the leafless boughs are only just putting +forth their tender spring buds: yet there is an unusual commotion amongst +the rearers of the silkworm—whole families, men, women, and children, are +variously employed; the earth round the roots of the mulberry trees is +being hoed up; some are planting young shoots, others busy in the kitchen +gardens; whilst, to the European eye, a few appear as though engaged in a +mysterious occupation. They seem as if their arms were an inconvenience +to them, or, as though they were all afflicted with boils or eruptions +under their arms, which preclude the possibility of using them without +intense pain and difficulty. The singular attitude of these people, as +they move about like so many brood-hens with anxiously expanded wings, +once attracted the attention of an English medical officer, who assured +me, with great alarm depicted in his countenance, that tumours under the +arm-pits are certain indications of the plague, and he immediately +recommended our instant departure from the neighbourhood; whilst +uncertain what course to pursue, one of the men thrust his hand into his +bosom, and extracted the immediate cause of my friend’s alarm; this +proved to be a small bag of silk-worm eggs, and as this remainder of his +stock has been late in hatching, the peasant resorted to artificial +means, and the heat of his body is usually productive of beneficial +effects. However, in some parts of Syria the eggs are deposited in +moderately warm rooms, which speedily bring forth the embryo worm. +Wonderful to say, these eggs, which have been suspended in linen bags +throughout the whole year; during the heat of summer, the mild autumn, +and the cold of winter—on which temperature has produced no effect—now +that the right season has arrived, issue forth from the diminutive eggs, +just as the mulberry first puts forth its delicate foliage, so well +adapted to the weak state of the _microscopic worm_. Insects now creep +round the bag that had confined them as eggs, and the peasant, who has +been anxiously watching them for the last week, welcomes their appearance +with infinite satisfaction, as sure harbingers of spring; and, as on the +produce of the silk season the fellah and his family depend, in a great +measure, for their maintenance, the different processes are watched by +them with great anxiety. Now let us attend from day to day, and watch +the progress of these tiny millions as they advance in growth, and +finally spin round themselves that marvellous small store-house of silk, +commonly designated as the cocoon. + +The first steps taken by the peasants after the eggs are hatched, is to +place some of the minute worms in the centre of small circular baskets, +which have been carefully cemented over with cow-dung, and left in a +sunny spot till completely dry; this precaution is indispensable, because +the worms are so diminutive that, however closely wrought may be the +workmanship of the basket, they would inevitably fall through, and be +destroyed or lost. The reason also for having the cow-dung is, that the +cow is held in great esteem amongst most Oriental silk-worm breeders; and +a superstitious idea prevails, that this animal has a sacred charm, and +they therefore imagine that by covering the baskets with cow-dung, it +will have some power over the worms. In this primitive condition, a +handful of the tender leaves of the mulberry is plucked, and cut up +similarly to tobacco, and then sprinkled over the young brood. This +process is repeated twice daily, and suffices for the food of numerous +caterpillars during the first days of their existence. Their growth is +very rapid, and their appetite ravenous; and though tended each day with +the utmost solicitude, it is by no means certain that one-half of the +immense numbers contained in these baskets will arrive at perfection. +Hundreds are trodden to death by their companions; scores of brave young +worms perish beneath the weight of some slender mulberry twig, the size +of which, though small indeed, is, in comparison to them, like a huge +tree; besides these calamities, the worms are entirely at the mercy of +the weather. In some parts of Syria, nature takes a freak into her head, +and in the midst of sunshine and warmth, down comes a tremendous +hail-stone shower or snow storm—then farewell to the worms and the poor +peasant’s prospects; his only chance is, to send immediately to the +mountain plantations, whose colder climate has retarded the hatching of +the egg, and here, at great expense, purchase a second supply of +“silk-worm seed” (as it is technically called by us), and then the crop +is entirely artificial, for the leaves have attained too coarse a +texture, and the peasant is compelled to chop them up into minute +particles, before he durst administer them to the feeble and delicate +insects. There are two other enemies from which the insect has to be +guarded: during its first week’s growth, it is extremely liable to be +beset by red ants; and during the spinning, or last week of its existence +as a worm, the swallow and the sparrow think it a delicacy wherewith to +feed their newly-hatched progeny; and great havoc is sometimes committed +by these swift-winged depredators. Yet, notwithstanding all these +drawbacks, so careful are the peasants, that every precaution has been +taken long before the season arrives, to guard against any and all of +these foes; and it may be accurately observed, that bad crops and unlucky +seasons are the exceptions to a general rule. One year with another, he +generally obtains, within a few drachmas, the quantity of silk he has +reckoned upon, and he is usually pretty sure as to the amount of money he +hopes to gain, as this has most commonly been agreed upon many months +past, and the peasant has already received some portion of the fixed +valuation in advance. + +The first week of our watching has expired; the worms have increased. +These little creatures, which occupied but a very small spot in the +centre of the baskets, have now become so bulky, that they can no longer +find space sufficient to crawl about without destruction to each other; +consequently they have now to be removed to the _hoosse_, or cottages, +erected purposely for their rearing, and they are no sooner placed here +than the laborious part of the peasant’s business commences. Heretofore +his wife and children have chiefly occupied themselves in supplying the +frugal wants of the colony of young insects, and they had nothing else to +do but to strip the smaller branches and twigs of the tender leaves; now, +however, the worms, which are growing and thriving, require five times as +much attention and food as before, consequently, the good man of the +house and his son (if he has one), take the responsibility upon their +shoulders the moment the worms become inmates of the _hoosse_, where they +are generally installed with much ceremony; the priest repeats a +benediction, and sprinkles holy water where the worms are to be placed. + +We will follow the silk cultivator and his family, as they carry the +small baskets containing the worms into the _hoosse_, which is a large +hut with a peat roof; the walls are composed of reeds, platted liked +mats, with small partitions on every side. The building, which has been +newly done up, is daily inspected, to prevent birds from taking up their +abode amongst the straw and rushes of which it is composed; the interior +of the _hoosse_ is fitted up with shelves, formed with canes, on which +are laid closely-worked long and narrow mats, woven of reeds. These +extend round three sides of the nurseries, and are placed one above +another, with an intervening space between each shelf of about twenty +inches. On these mats a thick layer of mulberry leaves is laid among the +insects; the baskets containing the worms are moved carefully on the +mats, instinct leading them to the freshest leaves; meanwhile, the +peasant and his family are busily repeating prayers for a blessing on +their undertakings, at the same time mixing the grossest and most absurd +superstitions with their simple prayers. Pieces of red cloth rags, or +other dazzling colours, together with a shell of a hen’s egg, ornamented +with a red silk tassel and blue beads, are attached to the poles that +support the hoosse, and every other imaginable part of the building where +they are likely to meet the eye and attract attention. This is to divert +the stranger from allowing his thoughts to be wholly occupied with the +worms, or from gazing on them uninterruptedly: such an offence would be +sure to be productive of the “_evil eye_.” Indeed so great is the +superstition of these poor ignorant peasants, and their dread of the +baneful influence of this imaginary being, that they seldom have a child, +cattle, or possess cocks and hens, or even trees upon which they place +any value, without affixing to them a bunch of coloured rags, with a blue +ring made of common glass, for say they, “those that have such things +will be influenced by the venom of envy; and the venom of envy shooting +out of the eyes will blight the object of our desire, as lightning blasts +the tree.” So much for this absurd and ridiculous notion. Another +formula gone through, is the tying small skeins of last year’s silk in +various positions over the silkworms; this is to excite them to industry, +and to shame such as are slothful, by shewing them the remnants of the +riches and skill of their ancestors. + +We have seen the silkworms duly installed in the hoosse, and retire to +the music of their active mastication of the leaves, to return again on +the morrow and see how things thrive. + +To the surprise of my European friend, on entering the hoosse on the +morrow, he found all solemn silence; on examining the shelves, he thought +that the worms were all dead and gone. While he was regretting the heavy +loss which would fall upon the cultivators, I smiled at his ignorance, +and assured him that the worms were never more healthy than at the +present moment, (the peasant adding in a whisper), “_they are all good_ +_Christians of the Greek faith_, _and are keeping a three days’ rigid +fast_.” And this is firmly believed by him and his family, and is the +prevalent notion in Syria. At such periods as the present, when the +worms are in a state of torpor, owing to their rapid growth, they are +compelled at certain intervals to disembarrass themselves of the tight +old skin, which being too small gradually bursts, and a fresh skin is +formed, suitable to the increased size of the insect. At such periods +the natives, from the highest to the lowest, priests and laymen, +acknowledge the worms to be keeping a _Soame_, the Arabic term for fasts. + +The third morning after our last visit we call again, and find the newly +clad worms rapidly awaking to the sense of a keen appetite, glistening +and shining like bridesmaids in their beautiful new white satin costumes. +This process of shedding the skin, is evidently attended with danger to +the silk-worm, if we may be permitted to judge from the number that have +died under the process, whilst others, though surviving, have been so +disfigured as to be rendered entirely useless. The peasant and his +family are occupied collecting the dead and the maimed before feeding the +hungry survivors; this finished, he arms himself with a sharp sickle; +henceforth the leaves are no more gathered by the hands—trees are marked +out in regular rotation—the smaller branches are cut off, which are then +carried by the woman and children to a clean swept place in front of the +hoosse; the leaves and even smaller twigs, are speedily separated from +the branches, and sprinkled plentifully over the worms; the branches are +collected up on one side, and left to dry for future use as fuel; thus, +whilst the foliage of the mulberry nourishes and maintains life in the +silk-worm, the branches are used to light the fire which suffocates the +poor creatures when they have formed the cocoon, and assumed the +chrysalis state. After this first _soame_, or fast, the worms grow very +rapidly; in about a fortnight afterwards, they undergo the second +fast—they are now, however, much stronger, and better able to resist the +casting of their skins; so much so, that scarcely one dies under the +operation. On recovering from this second _soame_, they eat +prodigiously, and grow very rapidly. The peasant is compelled to cut the +branches off the mulberry three times a day in lieu of once, as +heretofore, and the worms feast without intermission, morning, noon and +night; at length in about eight weeks from the time they were hatched, +their existence as worms is rapidly drawing to a close. What was at +first barely the size of a grain of fine gunpowder, is now become three +and four inches long, sleek and fat, and for all the world looking like a +young roasting lamb of Lilliputian breed, ready trussed up for cooking. + +All the mulberry trees in the plantation, with the exception of some six +or a dozen, present the lamentable spectacle of so many boughless stems; +whilst nature around is profuse in luxuriance, and the wild convolvolus, +as though compassionating the sad condition of the mulberry, twists its +friendly leaves around, and decks it with gaudy blossoms of the early May +morning. The peasant has been busy cutting down boughs of trees, etc., +the bark of which he makes into string and ropes; these have been exposed +to the sun, till all the leaves have withered and fallen to the ground. +The worm which, by a wonderful instinct, has heretofore never strayed +seven inches from where it was originally placed, now begins to evince +symptoms of impatience, and roves about the edges of the shelves, or +tries to mount up the smooth and slippery canes that support the shelves. +The peasant, marking these indications, immediately places the dry twigs +of thorn and bushes over the worms, and in a short time the whole colony +rapidly mounts amongst these twigs, each choosing out for itself some +favourable position, where it may with greater facility weave its costly +and wonderful web. And now we stand quietly, and watch the indefatigable +little creature silently persevering in completing its own little +storehouse, and what will prove to be its own little tomb. No machinery +could be more exact than the movements of this small insect, as it +carefully draws out of its mouth thread after thread, now moving with its +head to the right, and carrying the almost invisible web down to its +tail, then turning its head in the opposite direction, apparently for the +purpose of drawing the silk from where it had been fastened on one side, +till it has carefully drawn it over its own head, and secured it with +gummy saliva. We quit the worms at mid-day, when hardly a thread of this +wonderful substance is as yet visible; we return early the next day, and +the cocoon is formed, but it is yet too tender to be touched. The +peasant merely contents himself with observing the shape and color of +these cocoons—setting much store on such as are of a yellow brown tinge, +small, with a belt in the centre. Some of the cocoons are as white as +snow, some yellow, some brown. The peasant now reports the condition of +the silk-worms to his masters who immediately places his seal on the door +of the hoosse. + +When they are considered fit to reel off the silk, he has the old oven to +put in repair, to inspect the basin on the top of this altar-shaped +furnace, to erect the old wheel, which has lain on the dust-heap ever +since last year—drive a nail in here—put a new spoke in there; and when +all is completed, and ready for immediate use, the peasant’s wife goes +early on the morning of the auspicious day, and carries in her hand a +morsel of damp clay; this she flings against the door-post of the +master’s house, if it adheres, then luck will attend the season, if, on +the contrary, it drops off, the silk will be unsaleable. This is not the +last superstitious ceremony observed; early that morning, about an hour +after sunrise, the master of the plantation, followed by the peasants, +and all his family, march in regular procession to the hoosse, the great +man carrying under his arm a bundle of handkerchiefs, or other trifles, +as presents for his followers; these are duly distributed on reaching the +sheds; every one says a blessing on that day’s undertaking, the door is +unsealed, the people rush in, and rapidly empty the hoosse of the twigs +and branches on which the cocoons have settled; these are piled up +outside of the door, the women and children spread mats on the ground; +here seated, they pick the cocoons from the twigs, and the peasants, as +the mats get overloaded, gather them into a goodly-sized basket: by +nightfall this operation has been concluded; they then separate from the +mass some two or three hundred of the very best cocoons, which are set +aside to breed from. Next day, the first streak of dawn has barely lit +up the east, before the busy peasants are up and doing. “The cocoon +cleaners” are occupied picking them; that is, detaching from the hard +shell the soft downy substance, which afterwards constitutes what is +termed the rough silk. The peasant, meanwhile, has lit the furnace; the +water in the boiler is wrought to a proper temperature for reeling the +silk. An old man busies himself in bringing bundles of faggots from the +large pile of mulberry branches, with which to keep the fire alive. +Baskets of picked cocoons are placed beside the peasant who, seated on a +stool, chooses from these a dozen or fourteen at a time, while a man or a +boy turns the large wheel with his foot; this wheel is about fifteen feet +in diameter; the cocoons are thrown into the warm water, and well whipped +with switches, till the whole surface becomes frothy, and the threads of +the cocoons begin to detach themselves. Seizing these, the peasant +skilfully draws them up, gradually using more strength, till he has +sufficient length of thread to fasten to a peg in the wheel. The party +at the wheel commences turning with all his force: the wheel goes round +rapidly; the peasant is ever on the watch, knotting broken threads, +supplying the place of empty shells by fresh cocoons, or screaming to his +attendant for more fire or more water. So passes the day. Evening +arrives, and there is a large heap of empty cocoons, in which, however, +the dead worms still remain; and on the wheel, which was bare in the +morning, there is a fine thick golden-looking skein of silk, weighing +some four or five pounds. This primitive style of reeling is of course +detrimental to the quality of the silk, and is a frightfully slow method +compared to European factories, which I have visited. When the peasant +discovers that he has more cocoons than he can possibly reel off within a +given time, he stifles them by exposing them to great heat, a process by +which the quantity of silk they yield is greatly diminished; but as the +cocoon fly, _i.e._, the moth, comes out within three weeks, this stifling +is indispensable, as the cocoon (except for rough silk) is wholly unfit +for use when once it has been perforated by the moth. + +About two weeks have passed since first the cocoon commenced to be +reeled; the silk is now ready for the market, and is hanging out in +golden festoons to dry thoroughly before it is packed. The old baskets +are once again brought into play, but they are this time all alive with +fluttering white velvet-like moths; they never fly. Their enjoyment of +life is very brief indeed; the male moth dies within twenty hours of its +birth; the female is then placed on fine linen rags, where, in the course +of the day it will deposit from 100 to 500 eggs, which are left in the +air for a short time, and then put into linen bags and hung from the beam +in the centre of the house, or sent to the mountain to await another +year. The silk season ends just as the heat of June sets in. + +Having watched the whole process of the fellah throughout the silk +season, we will continue to follow him to the close of the year. The +silk being weighed and given to the women to make into hanks, and +provision made for the future brood of worms, I will call my reader’s +attention to the wheat harvest. The labours of the peasantry will now be +of a severer nature than hitherto; he has to toil under the scorching +rays of the sun, whose beams, at least in some parts of Syria and +Palestine, are far more powerful than those ever endured by English +reapers; consequently the fellah is compelled to desist from his +occupation from mid-day till about two o’clock in the afternoon. During +this portion of the day, scarcely a breath of air stirs, not a leaf is +ruffled; even the many-coloured and beautiful butterflies lazily flutter +from flower to flower seeking shade beneath the petals of the Damascene +rose; all is perfectly still, and the peasants take their wonted siesta. +However great may be the inconvenience of the intense heat, yet it is +wholly balanced by the benefits which accrue from the excellent climate +with which this country is blest. The farmer in Syria has little cause +of apprehension from sudden storms or showers, so that the harvest is +gathered in, receiving no injury from those changes of weather, to which +it is subject in less genial latitudes. The corn being reaped by the +fellahs, the damsels, even as in the time of Ruth, follow, gathering the +ears and binding them in sheaves; after leaving them for a short time to +dry, they are carried to a part of the field called _baiedar_, which has +been levelled and swept clear to receive them. A rude machine, +constructed of oaken planks with stones fixed in holes drilled on the +under side, is placed on the now scattered sheaves; on this a youth sits +or stands to drive the oxen round and round, which have been harnessed to +it. This process separates the grain from the husk; it has next to be +winnowed, and for this purpose is collected in heaps; the corn, by means +of a wooden shovel, is thrown up in the air, when the delightful and cool +breezes of evening waft the chaff to the winds. The reaping, threshing, +and winnowing, being now completed, the wheat intended for domestic +consumption, is stored in wells, constructed expressly for this purpose, +whilst that which is for agricultural uses, is placed in enormous jars, +of from five to fifteen feet in height, and of proportionate diameter. + +The peasant now receives from his master the portion due to him from the +harvest; he then commences making one half of what he obtains into +_borghol_. The weather is most favourable for this process, as it +requires fine sunny days, and during the night the wheat is covered with +sheets to protect it from the dew, which is very heavy in the East. The +grain is first washed and boiled, when it is exposed for several days to +dry on mats, before carrying it to the mill, where it is ground and thus +converted into _borghol_. Of this there are two kinds, viz., coarse and +fine; this latter serves simply as a substitute for rice, and is called +_ruzz-mufalfal_, whilst the other is used in _kubbas_, that favourite +dish to which I have before alluded. The harvest is now over, and the +vineyards in the surrounding mountains present a rich and beautiful +sight; the bright and luscious clusters of black and white grapes lie in +profusion along the ground, for in Syria the vines are suffered to trail +on the earth; and I am persuaded that were they trained as in the Rhenish +vineyards, they would yield a more abundant crop. + +At this season of the year, the scene which is now presented is both +picturesque, lovely, and interesting. Beneath a sky pure and bright, +amidst the luxuriant and straggling vines, the damsels of Lebanon are +busily occupied collecting the grapes. With what ease and elegance they +move! Their graceful forms are shewn to full advantage in their loose +and flowing vesture the brilliant and well-selected shades of which +contrast beautifully with surrounding nature. Some are bringing baskets +to be filled, whilst others are cutting the grapes and placing them in +these panniers. The sun now begins to shed a deep red on the face of the +western horizon, this is the signal to return home; each one takes her +basket, puts it on her head, or loads her donkey, and the gay cavalcade +moves homewards, singing some plaintive ditty; and thus ends a day which +I know many of my fair Western readers would be not a little interested +to witness. On the following day, those which are not required by the +villagers for their own wines, arakey, or raisins, are carried to the +market where they are sold. Even in the vineyards there remain enough to +satisfy the weary traveller as he passes by, and to supply the feathered +tribes, and the bees, that therefrom gather an abundant store of rich +honey, either for hives, or, flying to far distant woods and meadows, +make for themselves a secret nest amidst the fragrant herbs; however, +these hidden stores are soon tracked out and added to the simple repasts +of our peasantry. Scarcely is the vintage over, when the olive +plantations require attention. This is one of the most celebrated as +well as useful of all trees. The fruit is beaten from the tree in the +same way as walnuts in England are threshed in a green or unripe state, +it is steeped in an alkaline ley, and then pickled in salt and water, and +that it is much esteemed when thus preserved is well known. To procure +the oil, the nearly ripe fruit is bruised by moderate pressure in a mill, +when the oil flows out. This valuable article is used in almost every +Syrian culinary preparation, and it is also applied for many medicinal +purposes. Thus with the olive, meet emblem of peace, end the bright +beams of this year’s sun. Winter comes on with rapid strides: the boughs +so lately loaded with leaves, flowers, and lastly, with fruits, are daily +losing their beautiful foliage; and chilling autumnal breezes coldly +whisper through the leafless branches, and Lebanon grows dark till the +pale snow covers its top, and reflects the last dying rays of the sun. +The peasantry now gather their supplies of fuel, which the relentless +winds tear from the trees, scattering the earth with fragments of boughs, +which, however, prove most acceptable to those who are in search of wood. +And now the fellah and his cheerful family being furnished with fruits of +all kinds, wine, honey, poultry and firing, and the numerous other et +ceteras necessary to a Syrian household, fear nought for winds or storms; +nor are his cattle forgotten, his cow and treasured mare are both +furnished with provender, much of which has been made from the refuse +left by the silkworm of the mulberry leaves, the centre part of which +they could not devour; these having been collected were made into stacks +ready for winter. During the autumn, the cattle derive much nourishment +from the second crop which sprouts from the despoiled mulberry trees. +The fellah’s wants being thus well supplied, he fails not to acknowledge +the blessing which he possesses, and exclaims, “_El-Hham’dvo li-llah_!” +God be praised! + +The resources of Syria are inexhaustible if only properly developed. The +trade in wine may rival that of Spain, Portugal, or France; the grapes +are beautiful, and if they were only properly selected, and proper means +taken to secure a good wine in this country, neither in Europe nor Asia +is there greater facility for establishing an extensive and lucrative +trade in this one department than in Syria and Palestine? The fruits are +delicious; and those grown in the open air and without any trouble, rival +in flavour, quality, and quantity, those of any other country, where the +greatest pains are taken and great expense incurred to accomplish this. +Then, again, the articles of tobacco, wheat, wool, etc., and innumerable +other articles; madder root, the beautiful dyes of Syria (the Tyrian dye +is not known now); one and all may, if properly cultivated and brought +into the English market, rival its imports from all other parts of the +world. The immense plains could, with very little outlay or labour, give +us wheat and wool, indeed supply all the world; and Syria will, I hope, +yet, at no remote period, become the granary of the west. + +The white wool of Scripture was up to a late period partially grown in +the country around the Euphrates; and, as is suggested by Dr. Thompson in +the articles already adverted to in the Colonial and Asiatic Magazine, +when an improved breed of sheep from English colonies, Spain, etc., shall +be introduced into Syria, we may expect to supply with its resources the +markets now chiefly furnished with wool from America, Australia, Germany, +etc. + + + + +CHAPTER XXI. +THE COMPARATIVE INFLUENCES OF THE ROMAN CATHOLIC AND PROTESTANT FAITHS IN +SYRIA. + + +There is perhaps no country in the world which so much engages the +attention of the Propaganda of Rome as Syria and the Holy Land. To +possess a leading influence on its destinies, has ever been the ambition +of the Pope. What could have been more iniquitous than the absurd +pretensions of the Roman Catholics in the Jerusalem question? It may be +necessary to go back a little, and to acquaint the reader, that France +has for many years claimed a sort of protection over the Romish Churches +in Syria, and in periods of commotion in Mount Lebanon has exhibited the +French colours from the convents, whilst all the appearance of state +protection from the Propaganda has been kept up of late years, as must be +well known in Europe. Thus a perpetual excitement is created in Mount +Lebanon, the Roman Catholics looking to France, the Greeks to Russia, and +the Druses to England. All this must be naturally displeasing to the +Turkish government, and destructive to the country itself, whilst the +agents of each of these parties are exciting them to perpetual outbreaks; +and most disgraceful scenes are continually occurring at Jerusalem, even +around the sepulchre of our blessed Lord; so that there is presented to +Christendom, the melancholy spectacle of Turkish soldiers called in to +prevent Christians massacring one another. To increase the confusion, +the last French ambassador at the Porte, M. Lavalette, demanded a renewal +and ratification of some privileges, stated to be the substance of an old +treaty with France, and so far succeeded as to obtain a promise from the +ex-minister, Reschid Pasha, to comply with his wishes. Pending the +negotiation, however, the French minister being absent for a time, Russia +went to work and had this promise set aside. His Excellency M. +Lavalette, returning and finding this, prepared to stand to his colours, +and brought the _Charlemagne_ man-of-war to sustain his demand. The +grand vizier was called upon for an explanation, and as he could not +defend his conduct, was dismissed from office, and the question thus +remained in abeyance for months, but has now again been mooted. France +has got a renewal of the original privilege, whilst Russia continues +obstinately to oppose these concessions. The question is thus still at +issue, and it is difficult to say how, when, or where it will end, unless +England, as the only power best suited to do so, mediate between such +conflicting parties. At least such is my humble opinion. {371} The Holy +Sepulchre once exclusively in the possession of the Roman Catholics would +indeed be a bright gem in the diadem of the Romish Church, the acme of +their ambition, and a keystone to the hearts and affections of every +Christian inhabitant in Syria; but though they have as yet failed in +this, they have many other strongholds and fastnesses in the land. Look +at their convents at Carmel, Jaffa, Ramlah, Jerusalem, Bethlehem, Sidon, +Beyrout, Acre, Damascus, and Aleppo, and which are daily increasing. In +these, and many other towns, they are the chief point of attraction to +the weary wayfarers; to these they flock for rest and for sustenance—to +these the sick betake themselves for medical advice and medicine—and all +is afforded them gratuitously. They have also schools for the +instruction of children in Arabic, Italian and French; and though many +poor members of the Greek Church would gladly abstain from sending their +children to be under the tuition of the priests, did any other +opportunity offer itself for their education, still, in many instances, +they have now no alternative if at least they desire that their children +should be instructed in the European languages. At the present day, the +sea-coast towns of Syria are rising into such great importance from the +rapidly-increasing commerce with Great Britain and America, that to be +possessed of a smattering of foreign languages is a source of gain to the +rising generation of Syria; hence, all are desirous of obtaining this +knowledge; and for the accomplishment of their desire, there is no choice +left but to attend the Roman Catholic schools. + +There is, as I have already stated, an innate enmity between the Greeks +and Latins in Syria—a deadly strife in a doctrinal point of view; still +the young Syrians of the Greek persuasion, and even Moslems who, from +self-interest, are prompted to attend daily these Romish schools, are +also compelled to submit to their rules; and the course of instruction +there consists almost exclusively of books and lessons well adapted to +impress upon the young imagination the doctrines and observances of that +Church. What follows from this intercourse? The teacher begins to plot +against the pupil; he softens down difficulties; he wins confidence by +kind words, and occasionally by small gifts, whilst a strict endeavour is +made to mix up with these studies as much pleasure and amusement as is +admissible with the drier pursuits of knowledge. These and a hundred +other methods are adopted by the Roman Catholic priests to gain over the +esteem and regard of the pupils; and as a natural result, the child, +perhaps innately of an affectionate disposition, feels an impulse to be +grateful—gratitude warms into friendship—friendship ripens into +attachment; and then the battle is won; the child is only nominally a +Greek—in principle and at heart a Romanist. The parents and friends may +be long in discovering the painful truths of the case (if ever they +arrive at the knowledge), for in exact proportion as the child becomes +imbued with his teacher’s notions, so does he imbibe that unchristian +spirit of concealment and deception, which it is the great aim of his +preceptors that he should be possessed of; and having reached this point, +as he grows in years so he grows deeper in cunning, and becomes a +powerful instrument in the hands of his instructors, “a wolf in sheep’s +clothing,” turned loose among the flock of his unsuspecting brethren, and +whilst a strict adherent to the outward observances of the Greek Church, +is a very Jesuit at heart, working out with secret but almost certain +success, the utter slavery of all those that fall into his meshes. This +is the existing evil in Syria—a growing danger—a picture of truth not at +all overdrawn. This is the “wild beast” of the present day in Lebanon, +which is “passing by and treading down the humble and unsupported +Thistle.” + +Hospitality is the prevailing feature of the East; it is a precept and +practice handed down from generation to generation since the time of the +patriarchs. Abraham, when he unconsciously received and waited upon the +three heavenly messengers, was doing exactly what is practised by the +wild Arabs of the desert to this very day. “_Baëtic baetuc_” (my house +is your house) is, with a very few exceptions, the maxim in the heart of +every inhabitant of Syria, the more refined citizens of Damascus and +Aleppo placing the best rooms in their houses at the disposal of the +stranger, as well as their horses, their servants, the best fruits of +their gardens, and even themselves. All is cheerfully given up to their +guests; and that man is a black sheep of the flock who is wanting in +courtesy to the stranger, be he Christian, Moslem or idolater, rich or +poor. + +The poor peasant, in his lowly hut in the village, and the Arab in his +tent, will gladly share his frugal repast with the friendless stranger, +and allot him a corner of his own cushion and portion of his own +bed-covering, if he have nothing better to offer. In fact, the latter +will not allow a stranger to pass without entering his tent-door and +tasting the bread and salt of hospitality. A man without hospitality is +looked upon as worthless and unnatural; but a people without +hospitality—the idea is too monstrous for an Oriental to conceive. {375} + +The Latin convent on Mount Cannel has a widespread fame in the East. The +Hadgi from the far-distant shores of India, whom chance or speculation +has brought from Mecca into Syria, has ofttimes been refreshed, and +rested under the shadow of these its hospitable walls; and he naturally +returns to his friends and his country full of the good deeds and the +kindness of the monks of the great _deher_ (convent) of _Mar Elias_. +Another, perhaps, has been sick nigh unto death, and in his sickness was +nursed, kindly waited upon, restored to health, and then sent forth with +a blessing, by the _Hakeems_ of this convent. What follows? The virtues +and charities of these Catholic brethren are ever afterwards the theme of +his daily conversation. Again—a pilgrim, penniless and starving, has +received food and raiment, with a small sum of money to carry him on his +way home, from the Carmelite friars. The pilgrim, through after-life, +cherishes a thankful gratitude towards his timely benefactors; and this, +to a greater or less extent, is the case with all the minor convents and +monasteries in Syria. + +Now, while the Roman Catholics have their convents, the Greeks and +Armenians their monasteries; while the Druses, Maronites, and Arabs have +a corner in their humble dwellings, and a crust and a sup for the +penniless pilgrim and the weary wayfarer; yet, alas! not even in Beyrout +can the English boast of ever so mean an establishment for the exercises +of charity—charity, that golden rule, laid down by Him whom they profess +to look to as their only Saviour and Redeemer, as the great Pattern and +Example of their lives. When I reflect upon the enormous sums spent in +sending fleets to fill Syria with bloodshed and misery, to the ruin of +many of my unfortunate countrymen, I must confess my surprise is turned +into indignation. + +Amongst the fraternity constituting the monks of the various convents, +there is always one or more somewhat skilled in the art of healing; and +generally attached to these establishments, as in the instance of the +convent on Mount Carmel, is a dispensary well stocked with drugs, and +with the newest and best medicines recognised and used by physicians. In +some few of the principal towns in Syria there are resident European +doctors, principally Italians and Frenchmen, with a sprinkling of Germans +and Poles, and one or two Americans. With the exception of the +last-mentioned, they are mostly in the pay of the Turkish government, and +are either connected with the quarantine establishments, belong to the +troops, or are attached to the court of the Pasha. Relative to these, +however, I may quote what Dr. Thompson, who was for some time at Damascus +on a medical mission, and who was extremely beloved and esteemed by the +natives there, states, viz.,— + + “That on one occasion he was requested by the seraskier, or commander + of the forces for Arabia, to perform an important operation on a + soldier, as the ordinary medical staff were not able or willing to do + it. In the course of the operation, the medical staff one and all + failed in their aid, and some of them even fainted; and the writer + had to rely on his own presence of mind, and unaided, to terminate + the operation. Imagine an epidemic in a hospital under such + surveillance; the mortality is frightful even under ordinary + circumstances. In acute cases, and in serious surgical cases, there + is little or no chance for a successful result; and the soldiers and + sailors seldom resort to the doctor if they can avoid it. The + European renegades in the service are very little better, with a few + exceptions. The monks that practise medicine as a profession have a + very fair knowledge of simples, and compound their own medicines, and + employ a good many recent chemicals and modern ingredients in the + European _Materia Medica_; but their knowledge of acute disease is + necessarily limited.” + +The natives, in the hour of sickness, have first of all recourse to +simple herbal remedies, which have been handed down through many +generations, and are chiefly held in estimation by the old people of the +villages. When these remedies are found to fail, then, and oftentimes +only at the eleventh hour, they bethink them of the Franks inhabiting +some convent in the neighbourhood; and as all Franks are supposed to be +physicians by birth, recourse is had to their healing art in preference +to Italian or other quack medical professors, who are harsh in their +treatment of the sick, unconscionable as to charges, and in any real case +of difficulty seldom, if ever, successful. The monks are always ready +and willing to avail themselves of any such opportunity of displaying +their skill and charity, and it requires no second invitation before one +or more of them are at the threshold of the sick man’s house, and a few +minutes find them busily employed about the cure, if it be practicable. +In many instances, the patient is only suffering from severe +constipation, or it may be a severe attack of ague; and in these cases a +quick and almost miraculous cure is soon effected. That it should be +considered a miracle, or an interposition of Divine Providence, brought +about by the prayers and benedictions of the holy friars, is the main +object they have in view, hence no opportunity is lost, on the first +arrival of the priestly doctors, to impress upon the minds of the +relatives and friends in secret the almost certainty of the patient’s +demise, unless a special interposition be made by them on his behalf. If +this does not ultimately lead to the conversion of the household, it +shakes them in their own creed, engenders confidence towards their +benefactors, and leaves a grateful impression behind for many gratuitous +charities rendered. The least return they can then make, is to comply +with the oft-urged request of the monks to send their children to be +educated at the convent school. + +Luckily for the credit of Great Britain, she sends few charlatans from +her colleges; and an English or American quack is a thing heretofore +unheard of in Syria, whereas charlatans of all other nations have been +superabundant. An English doctor possesses an unsullied reputation in +Syria. He is looked upon in the same light as an English gun, or an +English watch—a thing that can only be manufactured or brought to +perfection in England. Hence, if the report be spread that an English +Hakeem, or even an Englishman of any denomination, be travelling in the +neighbourhood, the halt and lame, and blind, and otherwise ailing of all +the surrounding villages will congregate near to where his tent may be +pitched, and pester him incessantly for remedies, if it be only a little +white sugar weighed out by his skilful hands, to be used in cases of +ophthalmia. Every sect, and even Mahommedan ladies, came and consulted +Dr. Thompson, and received him at their own houses unveiled. The +judicious physician is treated in the light of a gifted individual; he is +looked upon as having the power of life and death in his hands: in the +sick-room he is courted and treated with the greatest deference and +respect; and even whilst passing in the streets, the occupants rise to +salute him. It is not uncommon for him to find himself impeded in his +progress by the prostration of the female members of the family to kiss +his garments, even his shoes. This has occurred repeatedly, to my +knowledge, in Damascus; and the doctor was also appealed to in private +matters as the umpire, and for his advice in domestic and personal +affairs. + +I may also here relate an incident in my own life in support of the +influence which a Hakeem can obtain over the prejudices of Eastern +people. During my last visit to Constantinople, whilst visiting at the +house of Husseen Pasha, His Excellency, in the course of conversation, +hinted to me, that the rumour of my medical studies in Europe had reached +him; and after a little introductory preamble, he begged of me to see his +wife, who had been confined to her bed for some days. I can hardly +describe my astonishment at such a request coming from such a quarter; +however, I expressed my readiness to do all in my humble power to +alleviate the sufferings of the invalid. I was accordingly conducted by +a eunuch through a perfect maze of dark and mysterious passages (coughing +all the way, as is the fashion, to give notice of the approach of a male, +for the females to veil themselves) to the bed-chamber of the sick lady, +whom I found reclining upon a mattress, laid upon a carpet on the floor. +It being announced to her, that the Hakeem Bashi was at hand, an +attendant, old Dudu, came forward, and our interview commenced. + +After a short conversation, in which she made many anxious inquiries +relative to the Frank country and the English ladies, about whom I found +she had very absurd notions, we came to the real object of my visit. I +asked where the pain lay, and it will cause my readers to smile when I +state her reply. She told me that I must cast her nativity according to +Eastern customs, and thus discover the seat of pain myself. I told her +that the system of medicine which I had learnt in England did not admit +of such practices, and went on to shew her the utter fallacy of such +doings. She answered me, that her own doctor in Circassia formally +adopted this plan, and that, after ascertaining the star under which she +was born, appropriate verses from the Koran were written upon three slips +of paper: one was put in water, which she afterwards drunk; one was burnt +with perfumes to drive evil spirits from the room; and the third was +placed upon the affected part. After some little difficulty I discovered +the seat of her malady, and that she was suffering under a tumour. I +then felt her pulse, and requested her to shew me her tongue. Here +another difficulty arose, as she could not shew me her tongue without +unveiling; but the old lady who stood by told her that the Prophet +allowed it before the Hakeem and Priest, at the same time quoting verses +from the Koran in assertion of what she stated. This had the desired +effect; and on her removing her veil, I was perfectly dazzled with the +intense sweetness and beauty of her face. She was a Circassian, one of +the fairest of her race, and had just arrived at Constantinople. After +some trouble she permitted me to inspect the part affected; on beholding +it, some lectures delivered by my revered Mentor, Mr. Phillips, and also +by Mr. Ferguson, immediately recurred to my mind. In the lectures they +said, that incision with the knife was the only remedy in such cases. +After two days I ventured to break this to my trembling patient, much to +her terror; but on my assuring her that I would remove it without her +being sensible to pain, she at last consented, and I successfully +performed the operation, putting her under the effects of chloroform, +which appeared to the bystanders pure magic. They had heard tell of such +things from the Arabian Nights, but could hardly believe their senses +when actually beheld by themselves in the present day. + +I have already endeavoured to show in how many various ways the Latins +possess superior opportunities, and are in a better position than the +Greeks, in having greater facilities daily afforded them as far as +regards the work of conversion; but there is yet another great source of +advantage to them, and one which holds out many tempting inducements to +the heavily-taxed peasantry to embrace at once, and without any further +hesitation, the Roman Catholic faith. This is the privilege exercised by +the consular authorities, and even by the very priests themselves, of +protecting from outrage or insult every one who has embraced their +religion, and who gives evidence of the sincerity of their intentions by +regular attendance at mass, and by the rigid observance of high-days and +holy-days, feasts and fasts. They also give them employment; and they +become, _de facto_, protected by the French government; their taxes are +light in comparison with those levied on their fellow-countrymen, and +they are entirely exempted from that grinding system so commonly +practised and played off upon the peasantry by the soldiery and +underlings of government—a class of individuals that are a perfect bane +to the Ottoman empire. + +Before concluding these remarks, I must point out another glaring +instance in which the Latins have gained a decided ascendancy over the +Greeks in the East. I allude to the establishment by the Sisters of +Charity of a hospital at Beyrout, in which the first medical advice there +procurable has been secured. Here the poor fever-stricken natives have +every attention paid to their wants in the hour of sorrow and sickness; +while, side by side, on neat iron-bedsteads covered with snowy linen, we +stumble across the last sad remains of the French Roman Catholic sailor, +and, in the next bed to his, the Protestant British tar. Both have been +equally cared for, as far as bodily concerns go, but there has been a +fearful distinction between the spiritual consolation of the two. The +Frenchman has received daily—hourly visits from the nuns, who have spoken +to him smilingly of heaven, and lighted death’s dark pathway with the +rays of cheerfulness. The Englishman, on the contrary, has felt himself +friendless and solitary—no gentle lips have stooped down to whisper +comfort and holy counsellings to the quickly departing soul. The reason +is, that there is not at present an English clergyman or an English +doctor in Beyrout. + +The Sisters of Charity, and their other kindred agencies in the East, are +beneficial in their way. During seasons of sickness they are all in full +requisition, and deserve their meed of praise. As to these religious +ladies, whatever may be their proselytising propensities—we know, that +where they chiefly confine themselves to their meek and humble calling, +their indefatigable zeal and never-ceasing exertions at all seasons and +at all hours, are greatly to be commended. The patients visited at their +own houses retain a grateful sense of the patient attention shewn them in +the hours of need and in seasons of epidemic, when in the East friends +desert each other. The institutions under their control are remarkably +well kept, and far more neatly and economically conducted than any +hospitals or schools in England. The manner in which their internal +economy and household arrangements are conducted and _efficiently_ +superintended is highly creditable to them. + + + + +CHAPTER XXII. +THE REMEDY. + + +From the earliest days of Christianity, the blessed truths of the Gospel +were almost invariably accompanied by acts of mercy and love. At first, +these truths were impressed upon the memories of reckless and darkly +ignorant multitudes by signs and wonders, well suited to the times and +people; and miracles, resulting in immediate temporary benefit to the +afflicted, were apt, though but faint, illustrations of the incalculable +boon about to be conferred on the immortal souls of the believers and +followers of our blessed Redeemer—the blind received their sight—the lame +recovered the use of their limbs—the sick were healed—and even the dead +were brought to life again. The early apostles were physicians both to +the soul and body; and those that had faith but as a grain of +mustard-seed went about doing good to the sick and dying. These miracles +were palpable and beyond the power of refutation; and as long as the +necessity for something beyond the comprehension of man existed, such +things were requisite to draw and fix the attention of ignorant and +superstitious idolators; but as soon as the true faith had taken root, +and the young sapling no longer required outward and visible props to +secure it from those tempestuous hurricanes of persecution which, through +so long a period, raged with hardly any intermission, then palpable +miracles ceased to be exercised on earth—the visible sign was removed—the +word of command or the touch no longer possessed the healing virtue—but +miracles of grace and mercy still continued to be performed, and they +continue to this day the same, as palpably visible to the +spiritually-minded man (who can distinguish the hand of God in every +temporal blessing enjoyed by the true followers of Christ), as was the +resurrection of Lazarus to those unbelieving Jews who were eyewitnesses +to that marvellous demonstration of infinite power tempered with infinite +mercy. In lieu of this power of performing miracles, or of witnessing +them, men were endowed with a spirit of wisdom, which gradually developed +itself in successive generations; and the sick and the dying—the maimed, +the halt, and the blind, who had now no further hope of instantaneous or +certain relief through miraculous gifts, resorted to the skill of +physicians, men of more enlightened education than themselves, but in +other respects their equals, co-partners of the joys and sorrows +inherited in this world, and destined like themselves to terminate their +earthly career in the grave. And these physicians, or at least some +amongst them, laboured for the benefit of humanity. + +At first, we may readily conceive that their resources were limited, and +their primitive knowledge of medicines extremely scant; but the healing +art never retrograded a single step. Of this we have abundant proof in +the history of nations, as regards the advancement of this peculiar +branch of science, though it is most true, that in countries such as, for +instance, Arabia, which, in times past, was pre-eminent for its knowledge +of medicinal drugs, and which may be said to have been the nursery of +chemistry; this art has almost entirely disappeared whilst in the present +day the medical profession may in Europe be said to have arrived nearly +at its zenith; other sciences may have kept pace with it in their +marvellous and beneficial discoveries, but none can so much claim the +thankful gratitude of mankind in general. Health is universally +acknowledged to be the most precious of all temporal blessings, and, +consequently, the pillars that maintain and prop up health have a prior +claim to all others; and that man must be blind indeed, both spiritually +and bodily, who does not see and acknowledge in this boon to suffering +humanity the invisible hand of the Almighty Benefactor, as clearly +intelligent to the man of God now, as were then the words, “_Arise_, +_take up thy bed and walk_,” to the hopeless palsied patient. In short, +every cure and every relief afforded to the sick and dying, are so many +miracles of mercy. A man meets with an accident—he is mortally wounded +in battle—crushed by a railway accident—burnt in a fire—all but drowned +in water—sick of a fatal malady lingering with vain hopes and vainer love +of life—the marked victim of consumption—these all have their immediate +and most excruciating tortures benumbed or alleviated by the skill of the +physician; or, if there is hope of life, the whispering of that hope +falls from their lips like precious balm of Gilead imbuing them with +courage and patience to undergo suffering, for great beyond measure is +the tenaciousness to life. If, on the other hand, the skilful +practitioner believes his patient doomed, and pronounces the last +verdict, still he can proclaim to him the sweet hope of mercy—mercy +eternal and boundless—for the penitent sinner, and help him to collect +his scattered thoughts from wandering to that world which he must now +speedily leave; he may whisper to him that there is still time for hope, +and to hope for mercy, and he may assist him to spend these last precious +moments in penitence and prayer. + +What has long ceased to be a marvel amongst nations advanced in +civilisation, is still regarded in the light of a miracle by the +untutored portion of the world. Those who have penetrated into the +remotest and least-known regions, have adduced evidence in support of +this; and it is natural that a savage should regard with superstitious +awe and reverence, a man endowed by education with even such every-day +attainments as would barely pass muster in England, France, or America; +and it is as natural, that this awe and reverence should gradually give +place to affection and gratitude when, by the interposition of medical +skill, the sick and suffering man experiences a speedy transition from +pain and disease to the rapturous bliss of a state of convalescence,—and +this transition brought about, too, by what, to him in his ignorance +appears a magical influence. His faith in that man’s power is so great, +that, if he only drop a word in proper season, the untutored mind of the +comparative savage has sufficient natural energy to grow inquisitive +about what so materially regards himself; and he soon feels persuaded +that one from whom he has already received such convincing proofs of +disinterested kindness can never be capable of doing him an injury; and +this leads him to reflect; and reflection is the first grand +foundation-stone, which, when once firmly set, can readily be built upon, +and become, with God’s blessing, a house upon a rock. Throughout all +ages since the foundation of the Christian faith, those missionaries who +have penetrated into barbarous countries, have invariably found the great +utility of being acquainted, however slightly, with a knowledge of +medicines and their proper application. The very word _hakeem_ is a +passport to the Oriental heart and good-will. How else could Europeans, +in the garb of monks, and furnished only with staff and wallet, have +traversed those vast and unknown regions of China, Tartary, Thibet, etc., +and have escaped scatheless to make known to the world their travels and +adventures in lands and amongst people whose very name was a mystery to +civilised Europe? That physicians are honoured by these people, and even +in some instances gratefully remembered, is certain. This truth is +placed beyond a doubt by the fact of a Chinese poet having celebrated the +name, fame, and good deeds of a skilful European oculist in a lengthy +poem, part of which was translated into English and published some few +years since in London, taken, I believe, from the notes of the late Rev. +Mr. Abed, a distinguished American settled at Singapore. And it is owing +to the fact of monks, professionally physicians, having been with +impunity permitted to travel through unknown lands, that Europeans are +indebted for the introduction of the silkworm from China into their own +country, an indefatigable monk having ingeniously contrived to convey the +eggs carefully packed in the hollow of his staff over thousands of miles, +and through apparently insuperable dangers and difficulties from China to +Turkey. + +I have now, I hope, succeeded in proving to the reader the necessity that +exists of incorporating the medical with the clerical profession in the +persons of those good Christians, valiant soldiers of Christ, who are +cheerfully willing to devote their lives and talents to the furtherance +of the Gospel as missionaries in foreign parts; and I shall now endeavour +to explain my views, hopes, and wishes, as connected more immediately +with the spread of the Truth in Syria and throughout the East. Many +thousands of pounds have been already lavished upon futile attempts to +convert the heathen, and many excellent Christians are now to be found in +England ready with open hands to further a good cause; but as I never +intend to participate in any worldly gain to be drawn directly or +indirectly from what I am about to recommend to their serious attention +and consideration, they must at least acquit me of any selfish motives, +for my career in life is not in my own power; and though I have learned +to prize England and the many treasured friends and privileges I here +possess most highly, yet, I cannot forget my mother country altogether, +and trust and hope I may be able, at intervals, to revisit its sunny +shores for a while, and during my absence from it my every thought shall +be how best to promote the spiritual welfare of my beloved brethren +there. + +The plan I propose as best calculated to insure, within a few years, the +happiest results to Syria, is as follows, viz:— + +Firstly.—That a society be formed in England, composed of benevolent +ladies and gentlemen, who shall have for their aim the establishment of a +charitable hospital and schools at Beyrout, and that, for the furtherance +of this object, subscription-lists be opened at some of the principal +banking establishments all over Great Britain. + +Secondly.—That the donations thus collected shall be paid into the Bank +of England. + +Thirdly.—That when the sum subscribed shall have amounted to about two +thousand pounds, a pious, experienced middle-aged medical man, be sent to +Beyrout, accompanied by a chemist; there in co-operation with some +intelligent native (such as Asaad Kayat, the present English consul at +Jaffa, who has so materially benefited his country), to purchase a +promising piece of land in a healthy and elevated position an hour’s ride +from the town of Beyrout. + +Fourthly.—To build there a hospital, and in the town a dispensary for +out-door patients. The cost of this ground and buildings would not +exceed one thousand pounds. Separate private rooms, attached to the +hospital, would be very desirable for travellers, who needing medical aid +or nursing, and being able to pay for the same, would prefer being thus +lodged to going to an hotel. This would be a great boon, especially to +the English, who might thus feel greater confidence and security in their +visits to this interesting country; knowing that, in case of illness or +accident, they could there receive proper medical treatment, and every +care necessary to ensure their recovery. The physician attached to the +institution might, when called in to attend opulent European or native +families, be permitted to charge a small fee, which could be regulated by +the committee, and which fee, or half of it, might go towards the +hospital expenses. + +Fifthly.—If funds continued to permit, to build, in connection with this +hospital (but in the town), schoolrooms for boys and girls, where they +might be thoroughly taught their own language, and in it go through a +course of Christian instruction, learn needlework and household duties. + +Sixthly.—I propose that the requisite medicines, surgical instruments, +furniture, bedding, and materials for school use, be supplied by +voluntary contributions, such Christian or charitable tradespeople as +feel disposed to support such institutions contributing their mites +thereto in lieu of paying money. + +Seventhly.—It would be very desirable, when the hospital was constructed, +if the physician there would take in as many Syrian pupils to educate as +the funds permitted; to be sent, when deemed by him fit, to England to +improve themselves at the hospitals here, and to increase their Christian +knowledge; afterwards to be employed in the hospitals or dispensaries, +which, it is to be hoped, will soon, from so excellent a commencement, +increase all over Syria; for it would be desirable that eventually all +posts connected with these institutions should be occupied by intelligent +natives, who could afford to be employed at much lower rates of salary, +and who would exercise a greater influence over their fellow-townsmen if +only from their superior knowledge of their mother tongue. + +I have now endeavoured to shew that, with an outlay of two thousand +pounds, very commodious institutions might be established, and a large +piece of ground be purchased at Beyrout, if a Society were formed for +their establishment in Syria. Meanwhile, I have reckoned upon the +charitable disposition of the class of annual subscribers; and in this +Christian land, where money is so cheerfully granted for the promotion of +good and alleviation of suffering, I may safely reckon on this bounty +attaining about five hundred pounds per annum, not one fraction of which +but may, with judicious arrangement, safely treble the amount in the +course of a very few years. + +I have as yet made no allusion as to the uses to which the land purchased +in Beyrout might be applied besides the erection of a hospital upon it. +Any surplus land could, at a very trifling original outlay, be planted +out with mulberry-shoots; and these, if properly managed, would, in the +course of three years, be fit to rear the silk-worm. After the final +erection of the proposed establishment at Beyrout, and when it had been +working a year, I should recommend that the society, in lieu of +permitting the surplus funds on hand to remain idle, should vote the same +to the purchase of some tract of land in the immediate neighbourhood of +Damascus or Beyrout, and to have plantations in the fertile district of +Antioch, where land and labour are excessively cheap. Thus, an outlay of +one thousand pounds in landed property would, if it were all planted with +mulberries, yield, in the course of a few years, an annual revenue (if +the silk were sold in the Syrian market), of about two hundred pounds per +annum; if reeled for European purposes, nearly double that amount. And +this revenue would go on steadily increasing as the trees became older +and yielded more leaves for the nourishment of a greater number of worms, +and as, with the profits of the silk, additional grounds might be +purchased and cultivated, I could safely guarantee that, were the +society’s efforts judiciously supported by efficient agents, in from +fifteen to twenty years this and similar institutions would not only be +enabled entirely to support themselves from the revenue of their estates, +independent of any succour from the society, but they would even have +surplus funds for the establishment of like minor institutions in the +interior. + +At the first outset, the cultivation of the lands acquired in Beyrout +might devolve upon the parents or destitute relatives of such of the +poorer boys as were receiving a gratuitous education at the schools +attached to the institutions, and the poorer class of girls educated at +the schools, if permitted, might, during one month in the year, be +occupied in reeling off the silk produced by the cocoons on the +Institution’s estates. + +It is my idea, that the system of education should consist of two +distinct schools or classes for both boys and girls; the upper or high +school to be appropriated solely for the superior education of the sons +and daughters of such wealthy and respectable natives as have the means +and inclination of advancing their children in after life, and on whom +languages, drawing, music, various species of needlework, and other like +accomplishments, would not be uselessly lavished; while, on the other +hand, the lower school should strictly confine itself to orphans and +children of the labouring and poorer classes, who might be instructed to +read and write their own tongue with ease and facility, at the same time +that they were initiated into useful trades and professions, and the +girls of this class taught plain needlework, and no useless +accomplishments. As regards the diet and care of this latter class, +strict attention should he paid to _cleanliness_, regularity, order, +_truthfulness_, and other good habits; at the same time that their food +and raiment should, though sufficient, be neither superabundant, nor +consist of such articles as might induce them in after-years, when left +to battle their way through the world, to have a hankering after dainties +and luxuries wholly beyond the compass of their slender means. + +But to ensure success to the proper working of such a philanthropic +medical mission as is here contemplated, intemperate zeal or harsh +bigotry must be carefully abstained from. I quite agree with Dr. +Thompson, who, in a letter addressed to Dr. Hodgkin from Damascus, says, +“I believe all who know the East, and particularly Syria, will freely +admit that it is only through medical agency that a change in the +religious views of the people can be effected; but even a medical man +must work for years among them, and first acquire their confidence; and I +believe I am not too sanguine that then, by cautious and judicious steps, +he may and will do more than pure missionaries can expect to accomplish +for a quarter of a century to come.” “It is at the bedside of a sick +person, where are always assembled all the friends of the patient, that a +medical man can do the good work, and where he may do so with impunity, +especially if there be a slight prospect of recovery. The most fanatical +I have found raised no objection under these circumstances, even, strange +to say, among the Moslems.” + +I may now quote the following lines from Mr. Cuthbert Young, in his +“Notes of a Wayfarer,” he says:—“No means are more likely to smooth down +prejudices and recommend true Christianity than the spirit of benevolence +that emanates from it, and that breathes in this institution. Compulsory +means for proselytising never have been, and never will be, effectual in +the case of Mahommedans; but what can withstand self-denying kindness? +And what may not happen when we know that free access is obtained by +Christian physicians, even to the harems of Moslems! The same vices that +are so destructive in China—infanticide and abortion—prevail here; and, I +believe, the use of exciting stimulants, such as opium, is also general; +but the wretched patients, when placed under the superintendence of a +faithful Christian physician, though they may not be prepared to embrace +Christianity, may yet drink in to some extent of the Christian spirit.” + +The amount of good, and the favourable impression made on the people by +medical missionaries, cannot be overrated. We need only refer to China. +There is no more efficient way of rendering a people, or a country, +lasting advantages, than through the agency of Christian and judicious +medical men. + +In bringing these pages to a close, I may be allowed to express a hope +that they will not prove wholly without interest to those who peruse +them. My chief incentive for appearing before the public, has been from +an humble desire to advocate the cause of Syria; and the patriotic will +doubtless join in my prayer, that my efforts may not prove abortive. If, +therefore, either directly or otherwise, I shall be the means of rousing +the sympathetic energies of right thinking people, on behalf of my native +land, I shall feel fully recompensed for all the time I have bestowed on +this little volume. However great have been the exertions which, (as not +professing authorship), it may have given me, yet the recalling past +scenes and circumstances for the work has left a relish and a fragrance +on my mind, and a remembrance which is sweet. I have, however, by its +publication, caused a strong feeling of enmity and malice to spring up +against me among my Roman Catholic brethren; and to their hostility I am +reluctantly compelled to attribute a considerable change which, since the +appearance of my work, has taken place in my circumstances. By +fabricating reports disadvantageous to my welfare, and by using indirect +influence in certain quarters, I have been made to suffer a considerable +pecuniary loss; but I hope in exchange that I have gained better things. +Amongst the latter I would place the satisfaction of having candidly +expressed my opinions on important subjects without regard to my worldly +interests, and that by so doing, I have more effectually paved the way +and pointed out the true path of improvement for my countrymen, by +directing attention to the evils which exist among them, and suggesting a +method by which they may be rooted out. May then those seeds of charity +which have so often sprung up, blossomed, and yielded fruit for me, now +do so likewise (and more also) for my countrymen. I cannot take leave of +my readers without once more expressing my heartfelt gratitude towards +the people of this country. From all whom I have ever met, I have +received that welcome and reception for which the English are justly +proverbial. Even the nobles of these mighty realms have deigned to +honour me, by evincing an interest in the subject next to my heart. May +that Omnipotent Power, to whose authority they also bend, long preserve +these great and true-hearted men; and may this kingdom never cease to be +the ark, the earthly resting-place of all true believers, whence, as from +a vast store-house of provisions, mental or bodily, all nations under the +sun may seek and find assistance. + + + + +APPENDIX. +NOTES ON THE GEOLOGY OF SYRIA, + + +(_Kindly communicated to me by my friend_, _Professor Edward Forbes_.) + +MY DEAR SIR,—It is much to be desired that a careful geological +exploration of your interesting country should be undertaken by an able +investigator. All that we know of the structure of Syria is fragmentary, +and in great part unsatisfactory. Sufficient, however, is known to +indicate the scientific importance of the region, and to hold out a +promise of a rich harvest for the practical geologist who may undertake +its description. The collection of fossils which I have myself seen from +the district around Lebanon, suggested many enquiries that have not yet +been answered, especially respecting the relations of the jurassic and +cretaceous rocks of that famous region. The following scanty notices of +what is known about Syrian formations and their fossils, may serve to +excite curiosity and to direct the traveller to fresh observations. + +In the year 1833, a valuable memoir by M. Botta, Jun., was published by +the Geological Society of France. It is entitled “Observations sur le +Liban et l’Antiliban.” He represents Mount Lebanon as composed of rocks +belonging to the lower cretaceous series, resting upon green sands, and +these in their turn reposing upon jurassic strata. He states, that in +the chain of the Lebanon there are three distinct formations. The +uppermost is a limestone, very variable in character, both of appearance +and hardness, and alternating with calcareous marls. The lower division +of this formation is distinguished by the presence of beds and nodules of +flint. Fossil sea-urchins occur in its middle, and fishes in its lower +part. A second formation of variable thickness is sandy, very +ferruginous, abounding in iron ores and lignites, and passing above into +a calcareous rock. The lowest formation is constituted of numerous beds +of cavernous limestone. Besides these older rocks, M. Botta remarks upon +the presence, all along the coast from Beyrout to Tripoli, of +conglomerates or sandstones, quite unconformable to the calcareous rocks +of the coast. + +M. Botta takes particular notice of those localities in which remarkable +fossils occur. The first is at the bottom of the basin in which Antoura +is built. The stratum is confused marl, abounding in specimens of +sea-urchins. These species are remarkable for their size and shape. He +considers this bed as belonging to the jurassic series. Corals are also +found in it. + +The second locality is near the convent of Bikeurby, where a stratum +occurs containing numerous univalve shells of the genus _Nerinœa_, which +being harder than the rock containing them, stand up on its weathered +surface. + +The third locality is at Sach el Aalma, where at about 300 feet above the +level of the sea occurs an impure limestone, often soft. In it fossil +fishes are found in plenty. They are irregularly disposed in the rock. + +The fossil fishes of Mount Lebanon have been the subject of frequent +investigations, although the true geological position of the beds whence +they are derived, has not yet been made out with certainty. Two memoirs +have especially been devoted to descriptions of them, the one by M. +Heckel (1843), and the other by Professor Pictet, of Geneva (1853). +Professor Agassiz also has written upon some of the Lebanon fishes, and +Sir Philip Grey Egerton has described a very remarkable fossil, viz., the +Cyclobatis Oligodactylus, brought from Syria by Captain Graves, R.N., who +kindly committed it to my care in 1845. Altogether no fewer than +thirty-four fossil fishes from Mount Lebanon are now known and described. +As the works in which the accounts are contained are not likely to pass +into the hands of travellers, it may be useful to give a list of some of +the principal of these very interesting and beautiful fossils. + +Of the family of perched fishes there occurs a species of _Beryx_, a +genus of which certain fossil forms are found in the chalk, and a few +living species in the Indian seas. The _Beryx Vexillifer_ is found in +the hard limestones of Hakel. + +Of the family of sparoid fishes, one or two species occur in the soft +limestones of Sach el Aalma. The _Pagellus Libanicus_ is an example. + +Of the family of Chromidæ, three species of _Pycnosterinx_ occur in the +soft limestones of Sach el Aalma, viz., _P. discoides_, _P. Heckelii_, +and _P. Russegerii_. + +Of the Squamipennes, a _Platax_ occurs in the hard limestones of Hakel. + +Of the Cataphracti, a new genus called _Petalopteryx_ has been +established by Pictet for a fish from Sach el Aalma. Of the Sphyrenoid +fishes, a _Mesogaster_ occurs at the same locality. To the Halecoid +fishes a great number of those of Lebanon belong; among them are the +following:— + +_Osmeroides Megapterus_, Sach el Aalma. + +_Eurypholis_ (new genus of Pictet) _sulcidens_, from Hakel. + +_Eurypholis Boisseri_, from the same locality. + +_Eurypholis longiden_, from Sach el Aalma. + +_Spaniodon_ (new genus of Pictet) _Blondelii_, from Sach el Aalma. + +_Spaniodon elongatus_, Sach el Aalma. + +_Clupea lata_, Sach el Aalma. + +_Clupea macropthalma_, Hakel. + +_Clupea sardiniodes_, Hakel. + +_Clupea laticauda_, Hakel. + +_Clupea minima_, Sach el Aalma. + +_Clupea brevissima_, Hakel. This fish, originally described by M. de +Blainville, appears to be very common in its locality. + +Of the Esocidæ, there is the fish called _Rhinellus furcatus_, which +occurs at Sach el Aalma. + +Of the Sclerodermi, several species of _Dircetis_ occur at Sach el Aalma. +A curious and anomalous fish, called _Coccodus armatus_, is found at +Hakel. + +Of Cartilaginous fishes, a _Spinax_ is found at Sach el Aalma. + +The curious _Cyclobatis oligodactylus_ of Egerton belongs to the same +division. + +In the north of Syria, M. C. Gaillardot has observed several distinct +stages of rocks belonging to the great Nummulitic formation, and +therefore, according to the received geological classification, members +of the Eocene group of Tertiaries. The newest of these beds are stated +to consist of compact white or grey limestones containing fossil corals, +sea-urchins, and oysters. Under these is a white chalky limestone, +alternating with green and grey soft marls and other limestones, almost +entirely made up, according to Vicomte D’Archiac, of the _Nummulina +intermedia_. In the white limestones of Ainzarka are found _Nummulina +Raymondi_, _N. lœvigata_, and _Alveolina subpyrenacia_. M. Gaillardot +would distinguish the entire group of strata constituting the highest +mountains of Syria by the name of the Libanian System. He appears, +however, to have confounded strata of very different ages, tertiary rocks +with cretaceous and jurassic. In the true Lebanon region the mummulitic +beds seem to be altogether wanting. It is possible that they may be +present in the Antioch district, but this has not been clearly made out +as yet. M. Russegger has shewn, contrary to the views of M. Gaillardot, +that the region around Jerusalem is mainly of oolitic age, with +occasional remains of cretaceous strata outlying here and there. + +During the Armenian expedition to the shores of the Dead Sea, +considerable collections of Syrian fossils appear to have been amassed. +These have been described by Mr. Conrad, and are figured in the report +very recently published by Mr. Lynch. The cretaceous beds of Syria are +therein referred in part, at least, to the age of the white chalk of +Europe. The Jurassic fossils are, for the most part, in the condition of +casts. Species of _Nerinœa_ were noticed, and among European forms, the +_Ostrea scapha_ of Roemer, and the _Ostrea virgata_ of Goldfuss. A very +remarkable fossil is the _Ammonites Syriacus_, from the Lebanon region; +it is a species apparently of the genus _Ceratites_, a group of +cephalopods usually regarded as characteristic of strata of Triassic age, +but in this instance possibly represented among cretaceous beds. + + + + +NOTES. + + +{3} Canticles iv. 13–15. + +{8} The supposed tomb of the prophet Jonah is distinctly visible from +this spot. + +{10} This favourite dish is something similar to forced-meat balls, +being made of dried boiled wheat, finely-chopped suet and meat, pepper, +salt, and red chillies. The whole is mashed into a paste, then squeezed +by the hand into a globular shape, and afterwards either boiled or baked. + +{21a} In the houses of Mahomedans the texts are from the Koran. + +{21b} Afterwards Pasha of Damascus, where he introduced many useful +European inventions; he is now the Commander-in-Chief at Adrianople, +beloved and esteemed by the people he governs. + +{22} It is the fashion of Damascus, and generally in the East, for the +lady of the house to first sip the coffee, and then hand it to the +visitor as a mark of favour; and on my first arrival in London, I used to +do the same, much to the astonishment of my English lady-friends. + +{28} (Aliahey Ushruf fûl salām.) + +{48} In the East generally, however it is not regarded in the light of a +theft to eat as much fruit from the fertile gardens as may satisfy the +moderate wants of the passer by. + +{76} Spirit, made of raisins and aniseed distilled. + +{78} Every marriage-guest brings a wax-taper, which he is to light. + +{79} Sometimes the marriage ceremony is performed at home, sometimes in +the church. + +{92} This is made either of raisins, or a kind of sweet pod. These are +crushed in a mill worked by a camel and afterwards mixed with a small +portion of alkali and a kind of soft earth, placed in a vessel with a +vent. Over this a certain quantity of water is poured again till all the +juice is extracted, then evaporated by heat till a mass resembling +molasses, is left, which has a delicious flavour. + +{97} This tobacco, when gathered, is hung up while it is green in a +chamber, and exposed to the fumes of a particular kind of wood, which +grows only in this neighbourhood, and which imparts to it a mild and much +admired flavour. + +{107} I have this fact on the authority of an English traveller. + +{119} Another story prevalent was, that the Sultan had written to the +Queen of England, commanding her to send her fleet to subdue the +Egyptians and threatening, if she refused to do so, to dethrone her, as +he is the Padischah of all kings. + +{157} Since the above remarks were placed in the hands of the printer, +Mr. Brady has, I am happy to see, obtained permission of the minister to +introduce a bill into the House of Commons, for the registration of all +duly qualified medical practitioners. This is, at least, one step in the +right direction. Short though it be, nevertheless we must look upon it +as an earnest of greater regard on the part of the Government than they +have hitherto evinced; and we may receive it as a first instalment of +more valuable boons yet to come. + +{175} M. Musurus, Prince Callimaki, and Prince Caradja. + +{178} Reschid Pasha, Aali Pasha, and Fuah Effendi, the ablest men in the +empire, were many years in this country, and are eminently distinguished +by their advocacy of reform, and by carrying on improvements in all +branches of the public service. + +{210} EUPHRATES AND THE EAST.—On Saturday last, a lecture announced +under the above title, was delivered at the Assembly Rooms in this city, +by Dr. J. B. Thompson, a gentleman who has just returned from a medical +mission in Turkey. Capt. Saumarez, R.N., presided, and a very numerous +audience of ladies and gentlemen attended on the occasion. The lecture +was so desultory in its course, that it will not admit of analysis; +nevertheless, it was exceedingly interesting, and formed an important +addition to our information respecting a country which is the cradle of +the world. Dr. Thompson, it appears, was sent to Asiatic Turkey on a +medical mission by an association of English gentlemen, amongst whom was +the Earl of Ellesmere; and having opened a free hospital at Damascus, and +acquired the Arabic language, he enjoyed rare facilities for obtaining a +knowledge of the manners, feelings, and circumstances of the population. +There is not only more toleration for Christians in Turkey, but less +corruption and injustice than under the powers which seek to dismember +it. He described the Turkish rulers as sensible men, ever ready to carry +on any improvements suggested to them. The missionaries would effect far +more if, instead of teaching doctrines to adults, they educated the +females prior to their seclusion in the harems. There was no impediment +to the establishment of female schools; and, therefore, if these +secondary means were adopted, the condition of the young might be raised, +the prejudices of the parents might be abated, and a foundation might be +laid for the civilization of the East. The principal feature of the +lecture, however, was the description of a new route to India. Instead +of passengers proceeding by Alexandria, Cairo, across the sandy Egyptian +Desert, and through the Red Sea, it was suggested that they should land +at the mouth of the river Orontes, near Antioch, in Syria, and pass +through a rich and beautiful country to Belis. There, embarking on the +river Euphrates, they would descend through the land of Paradise to +Bussora on the Persian Gulf and from thence proceed straight to Bombay or +Calcutta. The advantages of this new route were healthiness and +rapidity. The journey to India by Suez occupied twenty-eight days, and +entailed much suffering in crossing the Desert, and in traversing the +unhealthy Red Sea. The transit from Antioch to Belis would occupy two +days by railway through a country so rich and fertile that it would +become peopled if communication were opened up. The entire journey to +India would be shortened seven days, the route being not only better but +shorter by at least 300 miles. The saving of time would be still greater +if a railway were formed along the bank of the Euphrates from Belis to +Bussora. Dr. Thompson addressed himself to the objections which had been +made to the route by the Euphrates. It had been said, that Col. +Chesney’s exploring expedition failed; but this was incorrect. Col. +Chesney’s difficulties arose partly from his having fixed upon Barick, +higher up than Belis, as his terminus, and partly from the want of native +pilots. The river is subject to squalls, the signs of which are familiar +to those who live on its banks; but Col. Chesney employed none of the +navigators, and one of his steamers having been upset, the river in +consequence got a bad name. It had been said, too, that the Bedouin +Arabs are ill-disposed towards the navigation of the Euphrates. This Dr. +Thompson denied on his own knowledge, having visited all the chiefs along +the banks, and he declared, contrary to the general opinion, that the +Bedouins are a benevolent, generous, noble-hearted race. It might be +true, he observed, that during the progress of Col. Chesney’s expedition, +the Bedouins were prejudiced against the navigation of the river; but the +fact was, there were powers which thought they had an interest in +misrepresenting the intentions of the English in the East. This feeling +had, however, been dissipated by more correct knowledge. Dr. Thompson +added, that he had submitted the plan of the Euphrates route to the +Turkish Sultan, who immediately perceived its advantages over the old +route through Egypt, and would strongly support it. One feature of the +plan, he also stated, would be the establishment of a school for children +at Antioch, the climate of which is delightful; and while officers in +India might come there on furlough, without losing certain advantages, as +they would still be within the confines of Asia, their friends in Europe +would find it an easy and delightful trip to visit them at that place. +Dr. Thompson pointed out other and more general advantages, which would +arise from the adoption of the new route, as regards trade and +civilisation. + +On the conclusion of the lecture, Habeeb Risk Allah Effendi, a Syrian, +who is at the present sojourning in this city, presented himself to the +meeting, and addressed it in a few sentences expressive of his desire +that the Euphrates route might be adopted, as it would be the means of +civilising his native country. The Syrian women, he said, are entirely +uneducated, and this is one of the principal causes of the ignorance +which pervades the great mass of the people. He gracefully thanked the +audience for their attendance, regarding it as a manifestation of warm +interest felt in the progress of the East. A vote of thanks having been +given to Dr. Thompson, on the motion of Sir Claude Wade, the audience +separated, and, we may fairly add, that, though the manner of the +lecturer was clearly unpremeditated, his matter gave considerable +satisfaction to a large, intelligent, and influential audience.—_Extract +from the Bath Chronicle_. + +{233} This method of practice is in all respects the same as that of the +Egyptian midwives alluded to in Exodus i.16. + +{236} The Hebrews appear to have had a similar tradition, as we read in +the _History of Tobit_, vii. 4, 6, 7, 16, 17. viii. 2, 3, + +{242} During a recent visit to Walton-on-Thames with Azimullah Khan, who +is here on a mission from the Peishwa to the Right Honourable East India +Directors, and who, I may remark, is highly talented, and possesses an +extensive knowledge of the English language, we attended the service at +the church there. Azimullah left his golden slippers at the door, not +presuming to enter a temple with them on. Afterwards they were brought +to our pew by the beadle, who said that, if he did not take them, they +would be stolen. By my friend’s zealous adherence to Eastern custom, he +caught a severe cold. + +{284} A false conclusion of the same nature arose in my own mind on +entering an English Church; when I observed a picture of the Saviour over +the altar, and various monumental effigies round the walls, I rashly +concluded that the English worshipped pictures, etc., and laid their dead +in the Church to pray for them. + +{306} Latterly, the Jesuits at Beyrout, as, indeed, at all the principal +towns in Turkey, and even in Cyprus, have succeeded in introducing the +use of bells, even in some instances, for schools, factories, and private +families. + +{318} It may be as well here to relate an anecdote in connection with +the late Lady H. Stanhope, whose eccentric life has already excited so +much interest all over Europe. It came to the knowledge of some Metáwali +chiefs that her ladyship, like themselves, kept apart two beautiful mares +ready caparisoned, on which no one had ever yet ridden; attributing this +to a religious prejudice similar to their own, they came to the +conclusion that she ought to be considered as one of themselves. A +council was accordingly held, but after many pros and cons the vote was +unfavourable to her ladyship’s election, because, as one of the chiefs +asserted, she was so excessively eccentric, as to ride on one side of her +horse, and not to wear trousers. I believe that this occurred before her +ladyship had adopted the Oriental style of dress. + +{371} Since writing the above, the small cloud has gathered to a storm, +which threatens to involve the world in the dispute. I am grieved to +say, that the true state of the facts reflects the usual disgrace on +human nature, incident to all religious quarrels. For what, after all, +is the present question? Not any point of faith, morality or +benevolence, but a contention between two parties for the exclusive +possession of the fees obtained from pious pilgrims visiting spots, whose +situation if precisely ascertained, would be doubly calculated to make an +impression never to be effaced from the minds of those who tread them; +but that the places actually shown are probably not the real ones, modern +research has greatly tended to prove, both from measurement as well as +historical evidence. The matter is thus left doubtful; and it is painful +to think that no record, to be relied on, should have been preserved of +spots hallowed by the more remarkable incidents in the earthly career of +that Holy Presence, so all-important to mankind. The real point in +dispute was between the priests of the Greek and Latin Churches, for the +possession and care of those places which are shown as the scene of the +birth, crucifixion and burial of our Lord, from the exhibition of which a +large revenue accrues. Majority of numbers and better management, had +for some time secured the greater share of the advantages to the Greek +priests. Hence arose, on their respective sides, the opportunity for +French and Russian interference; the Czar claiming the exclusive +protectorate of the Greek Christians throughout Turkey. In the question +of the keys, the Turks had no interest; but the pretence of international +protection on the part of the Russians, was a wedge of destruction, and +hence the war. + +{375} While I was going from Trieste to Constantinople, we had very bad +weather, and the sea very rough. We put into a port, to remain at +anchor. I was so tired of the sea that I went on shore, and proceeded to +a _café_, where I saw two Albanians of ferocious aspect, each carrying +two pistols, a dagger, and carbine. When I made my appearance, they +enquired, “What countryman are you?” I replied, “I come from the Holy +Land.” Both arose and rushed towards me. I was at first alarmed, but +the words, “Welcome, stranger!” reassured me. They hugged me with +enthusiasm. They then desired the host to provide the best dishes he +had, and requested me to join their repast. Finally, they offered me a +home in their house, and the best apartment they had. + + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE THISTLE AND THE CEDAR OF +LEBANON*** + + +******* This file should be named 35322-0.txt or 35322-0.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/3/5/3/2/35322 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. 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