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diff --git a/35308.txt b/35308.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0ede019 --- /dev/null +++ b/35308.txt @@ -0,0 +1,10184 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Cape and the Kaffirs, by Harriet Ward + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Cape and the Kaffirs + A Diary of Five Years' Residence in Kaffirland + +Author: Harriet Ward + +Release Date: February 17, 2011 [EBook #35308] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CAPE AND THE KAFFIRS *** + + + + +Produced by Nick Hodson of London, England + + + + +The Cape and the Kaffirs +A Diary of Five Years' Residence in Kaffirland +By Harriet Ward +Published by Henry G. Bohn, York Street, Covent Garden. +This edition dated 1851. + +The Cape and the Kaffirs, by Harriet Ward. + +________________________________________________________________________ + +________________________________________________________________________ +THE CAPE AND THE KAFFIRS, BY HARRIET WARD. + +DEDICATION. + +My dear Colonel Somerset, + +My work on Kaffirland, which I had the honour to dedicate to you in +1848, having gone through two editions, I should consider this abstract +narrative incomplete without your name. Permit me, then, to inscribe +this little book to you, in testimony of that admiration for your public +services which all must feel who have benefited by them, as well as in +remembrance of much kindness to + +Your obliged and faithful friend, + +Harriet Ward. + +Dover, _March_, 1851. + +Note. Since this was written Colonel Somerset has been awarded the +local rank of Major-General by Sir Harry Smith. + + + +PROLOGUE. + +Much of the following work has already appeared, and has been favourably +received by the public under the title of "Five Years in Kaffirland." +Its price, however, having necessarily limited its circulation, I have +been induced to remodel it, and I now bring it forward in its present +shape, with some little alteration and abridgment, and with the addition +of much that appeared to me likely to render it serviceable to such of +my countrymen as may be meditating an attempt to improve their +circumstances by emigration, particularly if their views of where best +to go are either undecided, or point in the direction of Southern +Africa. + +I have passed five eventful years in that country, and in what I have +said of it I speak from personal experience, without any prejudices to +gratify, or any party to serve, but actuated, I trust, by a sincere +desire to be of service. + +It is true that a cloud has again gathered over the land, but I feel +justified in venturing the opinion that, under Providence, it will be +dispersed by the judgment and energy of Sir Harry Smith. + +The tide of emigration having lately set strongly in the direction of +Natal, I have thought it necessary to give some account of that +district, but as I have no personal knowledge of it, I have confined +myself to the information supplied by published official reports. + + + +PART ONE, CHAPTER ONE. + +BRITISH POSSESSIONS IN SOUTHERN AFRICA. + +The British possessions in Southern Africa, at the present day, consist +of what has long been known as the Cape Colony, or the country extending +from the extreme southern point of the continent to the 29th degree of +south latitude; of a district adjoining on the east, called British +Kaffraria; and a detached territory, called Natal, lying far removed +from the rest, on the eastern coast, and bordering on the country called +Delagoa, of which the possession is claimed by the Portuguese. In so +large an extent of country there is, of course, much diversity of soil +and general appearance, but it is unquestionable that the parts best +adapted, on the whole, to European settlement, are the eastern +districts, including Natal. The extent and population of each of these +divisions may be roughly stated at--Cape Colony and British Kaffraria, +150,000 square miles, and 200,000 inhabitants; Natal, 18,000 square +miles, and 20,000 inhabitants. In the Cape Colony the white and the +coloured population are of about equal amount, [see Note 1], but in +British Kaffraria and Natal the number of white inhabitants is as yet +but small. Among the white inhabitants, those of Dutch origin greatly +predominate, as is shown by a Government return of the various religious +persuasions, in 1846, where, out of 70,310 white Christians, no less +than 51,848 belong to the Dutch Reformed Church. + +Southern Africa may be described as consisting of a series of terraces +rising one above the other as they recede from the sea, and then +declining towards the great Orange River, which, after a long course, +generally from east to west, falls into the Atlantic Ocean about 500 +miles north of the Cape. On the sea-shore is a belt of land, consisting +of a level plain, from 10 to 30 miles in breadth, with some gentle +hills, generally fertile, and enjoying a mild climate, but backed by a +chain of low mountains called the Lange Kloof, or Long Pass, which +support a wide table-land, or karroo, as it is termed, consisting +generally of barren plains, yet well adapted to sheep-farming. Beyond, +rises another mountain-chain called the Zwaarte Bergen, or Black +Mountains, and further north a still wider table-land, called the Great +Karroo, which is by some travellers compared to the steppes of Tartary; +rain seldom falls here; the climate is rigorous at one season and +excessively hot at another, and even sheep-farming can hardly be carried +on. But further north, as the land slopes towards the Orange River, the +climate is more equal, and the land increases in fertility, so that +large herds of cattle are reared. + +A somewhat similar series of terraces is found on the western coast, but +their direction is north and south. + +Of the rivers, much the largest is the Orange River, but from its +remoteness from the settled portions of the country little use has yet +been made of it. The Olifant's, or Elephant River, and the Great Berg +River, fall into the sea on the west coast; the Broad River and the +Knysna on the south coast while the east coast is watered by the Sunday +River, which falls into Algoa Bay; the Great Fish River, the Keiskama, +the Kei, and many smaller streams. In the vicinity of the district of +Natal are found the Umzimkulu, the Umlazi, and many others, of which +even the names are hardly known to Europeans. + +The produce of Southern Africa is mainly agricultural. In the districts +in the neighbourhood of Cape Town wine is produced, while the more +remote parts furnish corn and wheat. The chief exports are wine and +wool, with hides, tallow, and salted beef, goat-skins, corn, and butter. +The provisions are sent chiefly to the Mauritius and South America. + +The exports of wool are increasing rapidly, those of wine decreasing. +In 1827, only 44,441 pounds of wool were exported: in 1846, 3,000,000 +pounds; while the wine had decreased in same period from 740,000 to +185,000 gallons. The white fishery, which was formerly pursued with +success, has now declined, but the amount of shipping belonging to the +Colony has more than doubled in the last ten years. + +The Cape Colony is divided into the thirteen districts the Cape, +Stellenbosch, Worcester, and Clanwilliam, in western part; Swellendam, +George, and Uitenhage, in the south; Albany, in the east; and Beaufort, +Graaf Reinet, Colesberg, Cradock, and Somerset, in the interior. + +Cape Town, on the southern shore of Table Bay, and about thirty miles to +the north of the Cape of Good Hope, is a well-built place, the streets +laid out in regular lines, and some are shaded by trees. The houses are +mostly of respectable size, and have a kind of terrace before the door. +It is spoken of as having a more English appearance than most colonial +capitals, the whole being extremely clean, and the public edifices +numerous and substantial, including the Government House, the Stadthuis, +or Municipality, several handsome churches, an exchange, and an +observatory. The population Is nearly 30,000. Immediately behind the +town rises the Table Mountain, and to the south is a district in which +are found many elegant villas, surrounded by vineyards and thriving +plantations. + +The town next in importance is Graham's Town, in the Albany district. +This is the capital of the eastern district of the Colony. It has a +population of about 7,000, and is 650 miles distant from Cape Town. It +was only founded in the year 1810, by Colonel Graham, but it has many +good buildings, and its merchants and traders are considered as +particularly active and enterprising. Thirty-five miles off, at the +mouth of the Kowie River, is the rising settlement of Port Frances. + +Of the other towns, it may be sufficient to remark, that Swellendam, +Uitenhage, and Graaf Reinet, are Dutch towns, and the latter occupies a +most picturesque situation among gardens and orchards. George and Port +Elizabeth are more English in appearance; the latter is the port town of +Algoa Bay, and its commerce is rapidly increasing. Worcester Beaufort, +Cradock, and Somerset, are mere villages. + +The importance of the Cape as a naval and military station has been +often dwelt on by abler pens than mine. The desirableness of fully +occupying the country with a white population is also fully admitted; +and as it is certain that the most fertile and valuable districts are +those which yet remain to be settled, namely, the eastern ports, it is +to be hoped that thousands who now struggle for a precarious existence +at home, will annually take up their abode there, and that their +well-directed industry will tenfold increase the value of the country of +their adoption. + +As regards the district of Natal, the following reports, abridged, from +Mr Stanger, the Surveyor-General, Mr Shepstone, the Diplomatic Agent, +and Lieutenant Gibb, of the Royal Engineers, will suffice to give a very +favourable idea of its capabilities. They are dated December 28, 1847. + +The Commissioners state that they have divided the territory into the +six districts of D'Urban, Pietermaritzburg, Umvoti, Impafane, Upper +Tukela, and Umzinyati, (from the native names of the principal rivers +running through them), and then proceed to describe each in detail. + +_D'Urban_.--"This division is well adapted to sustain a dense +population; it includes the Bay of Natal, and the township of D'Urban, +the port of the district. Cotton has been planted in the vicinity of +the bay, and yields superior and abundant produce. Sugar-cane and +indigo-plants thrive there, as well as elsewhere in the district, and +the coffee-tree has lately been introduced and grows well; but what +success will attend its cultivation, will require time to show. The +soil is rich, and favourable to the growth of barley, oats, etc, as well +as beans and most descriptions of vegetables. (Beans form a valuable +article of export to the Mauritius.) It is, throughout, well supplied +with water; being in its present state unfit for pasture-ground. It +appears to us desirable that the land should be laid out in small lots, +in order to encourage the settler, as much as possible, to cultivate it. +At present only the small Zulu cattle can be kept there, and those not +with advantage. + +"With the exception of mangrove, scarcely any timber adapted for +building purposes is found in this division: in a few localities +valuable waggon-wood is obtained. + +"A considerable part of this division is occupied by natives, inhabiting +the ground apportioned for them in the Umlazi and Inanda locations, and +the majority of white colonists will necessarily be north of the Umgeni +River, where a few are already located. It is of great and immediate +importance that a bridge should be constructed over this river, +separating, as it does, the seat of magistracy and the port, not only +from the most populous part of the division, but from the whole of that +of the Umvoti." + +_Pietermaritzburg_.--"This division includes the seat of government, and +head-quarters of the military. + +"It is a good grazing and a superior agricultural division; it is +abundantly watered, and capable of irrigation to almost any extent. +Vegetation is very rapid in this, as in all the other districts, and +consequently the grass grows rank and strong, so as generally only to +admit of the larger description of stock, such as cattle and horses, +being depastured upon it with advantage in summer. Valuable timber, +adapted for building purposes and furniture, grows in several parts of +this division. + +"At present, Her Majesty's troops stationed at Pietermaritzburg procure +all their supplies of corn and meal from Cape Town, at a great cost to +the military chest. This evil may be remedied by the industrious +cultivation of the neighbouring farms (which have hitherto been very +generally neglected), and the lands that appear to us to be available +for this purpose around Pietermaritzburg, which might, at some future +period, be marked off in lots of from 50 to 500 acres, and disposed of +to practical agriculturists. + +"Pietermaritzburg being the seat of government, it is of paramount +importance that bridges or other certain means of passage should be +constructed over the Umgeni river, so as to secure free communication as +well to the northern and north-western divisions of the district, as to +that part of this division that lies beyond the Umgeni. + +"This portion of country includes the native location of the Zwartkop, +as also the one contemplated on the banks of the Unkomanzi." + +_Umvoti_.--"This division comprises some of the finest land in this part +of South Africa, either for grazing or agricultural purposes; the +capabilities of the south-eastern portion of it are similar to those of +D'Urban, but cattle thrive better, and the upper portion of it is +considered much more favourable to the grazier than the division of +Pietermaritzburg; it is abundantly supplied with water, and some good +timber is found in it. The laying out and making a shorter road to the +mouth of the Tukela from the township, is a matter of importance, seeing +it is the high-road from the capital of the district to the Zulu +country. + +"The site proposed for the township [the Umvoti Waggon Drift, high-road +from Pietermaritzburg to the Zulu country, _via_ the mouth of the +Tukela,] is an eligible position at which to station a military force, +to serve at once as a protection to that portion of the district, a +rallying-point for the colonists and native subjects, and to impart +confidence, in the event of any hostile demonstration by the Zulu +nation. + +"The native location of the Umvoti is comprised in this division; and +natives, in considerable numbers, reside along its northern boundary, +whose location we have not as yet been enabled to report upon." + +_Impafane_.--"This tract of country contains land which has been the +most thickly populated portion of the country by the Boers, before they +quitted the district, and crossed the Kahlamba; and has always been +regarded by them as healthier for cattle than either of the three former +divisions. Sheep have also thrived well in some parts of it; and, +although not generally so well watered, and, therefore, perhaps not so +capable of maintaining over its whole surface so dense a population as +the other three divisions, yet it is equally able to do so in +localities, and at the village of Weenen, and along the banks of the +Mooi River, and particularly Bushman's River. Wheat and oats have been +grown largely, and with success. The soil at the village of Weenen is +especially fertile, excellent garden land, the vine, fruit trees, +vegetables, etc, thriving well; but the place being situated in a basin, +and the approach to it on all sides being by miserable roads, that will +require considerable outlay and work to make good, and being situated +off the main road, have retarded the prosperity of the village, and will +be likely to do so. Small quantities of coal, of inferior quality, have +been found along the banks of the Bushman's River, near the surface. +Some building timber is obtained at the base of the Kahlamba mountains. + +"The site recommended for a township on the Bushman's River is well +adapted for the station of a military party, and to form the +head-quarters of the upper portion of the district; it is sixty-three +miles distant from Pietermaritzburg. There is not, however, much +available government land about it. + +"An objection has been raised to this site, that the Little Bushman's +River, from which the water would be led for the supply of the town, +fails in very dry seasons; and another spot has been proposed in its +stead, a few miles lower down the river. We are not sufficiently +acquainted with this site to be able to report on the eligibility at +present. + +"It is highly important that bridges, or other permanent means of +communication, across the Bushman's and Mooi Rivers, should be +constructed." + +_Upper Tukela_.--"Cattle thrive well in this division, and sheep in the +lower part of it. Its general capabilities, nature of the soil, etc, +are the same as those of the Impafane. Yellow-wood abounds under the +Kahlamba mountains, and coal of a fair quality occurs in the hills on +the north side of the Tukela. + +"Some natives are resident under the Kahlamba: their location has not +yet been reported upon. + +"At Lombaard's Drift a small party of military might be stationed with +advantage, as also at Venter's Spruit, to guard Bezuidenhout's Pass over +the Kahlamba, to keep up the communication with the country over the +Kahlamba, and road to the old Colony, _via_ Colesberg." + +_Umzintyati_.--"This division has been esteemed as particularly +favourable for sheep and cattle; it has also been largely cultivated by +the Boers. Anthracitic coal is found near the Washbank's and Sunday's +Rivers, and in abundance and of excellent quality in the ravines between +the Biggar's Berg and the Umzinyati River. Excellent timber may be +obtained in this division. + +"A spot has been selected by the late Volks Raad, for a town on the +Sunday's River, which has lately been occupied by Andries Spies, as a +farm; but the disturbed state of this division prevents us from +reporting definitely upon the capabilities, from personal observation. + +"Considerable numbers of natives are resident in the south-east portion +of this division: their location we have not yet been able to report +upon. + +"The formation of each town and village must, of course, depend almost +entirely upon the nature of the ground upon which it is to be traced, +and that of its immediate vicinity. But it seems to us most important +that each of these settlements should have some means of defence within +itself;--some rallying-point for its inhabitants and adjacent farmers, +in cases of emergency; and for this purpose we would recommend that the +Government should erect a church, school, and magistrate's office, with +a lock-up room, placed in a defensible position; perhaps, when the +ground will admit, which, in most cases we think it will, according to +one or other of the annexed plans, which includes a cattle kraal in one +part of the market-square, the whole to be surrounded by a fence, and +flanking enclosures, to be constructed either of stone, brick, or +palisades: the remaining portion of enclosures might at first be made by +a ditch and mud wall, to be replaced hereafter by a more durable +material. + +"The size of the square and dimensions of the building, etc, must, of +course, be regulated according to the importance of the proposed village +or town. + +"Thus would be formed a commencement, round which the settlers might +gather with confidence, which we believe to be essential to the +prosperity of such settlements, the more particularly at their first +formation; one of them, such as the Umvoti, we recommend to be +established at once, by being laid out and surveyed, the necessary +buildings erected, and a magistrate and clergyman appointed, in order to +prepare the way for settlers. + +"We are of opinion that each township should have a portion of its town +lands appropriated to the use of such natives as are engaged in the +service of the inhabitants as daily labourers. The want of such an +appropriation at D'Urban is very seriously felt, especially by such of +the inhabitants as are engaged in the shipping business; and we beg to +recommend that at this, as well as at the other established townships, +such appropriations be at once made. + +"We do not at present anticipate that any difficulty will arise from the +necessity of compensating any claims to the lands suggested as the sites +for towns and villages, as the sites recommended do not interfere with +any lands now occupied. And the details of compensating the claimants +of unoccupied lands, as well as of the extent of land available for +dense population around its township, and of the number of emigrants +that may be accommodated in and around each town, will form the subject +of future inquiry. + +"Having thus endeavoured to comply with his Honour's instructions to the +extent of our ability, it now only remains for us to offer such +observations upon the present state and future prospects of this +district, as well as its general capabilities, as appear to us +desirable, in order that the Lieutenant-Governor may have before him all +the information we are capable of imparting, while deliberating on the +important subjects so slightly sketched in the Report. + +"The continued emigration of the Boers from this district to the country +beyond the boundaries, that has been going on ever since it was taken +possession of in 1842, by Her Majesty's troops, has, as is well-known, +almost denuded it of its white inhabitants, and discouraged the few that +remain. It is also evident that there is no prospect of filling up any +portion of it with Boers, and little by any removals from the old +Colony; the only effective remedy to this evil appears to us to consist +in an extensive emigration from the United Kingdom; without this the +resources of the district, confessedly great, and in our opinion equal, +if not superior, to any other British colony, both as respects fertility +of soil and abundance of water, will remain undeveloped. + +"The climate is most healthy, and subject to none of the epidemics that +are incidental to other parts of Africa. + +"By emigrants we would be understood to imply not so much an exclusively +labouring population, as practical farmers possessed of small capital, +say 200 pounds to 500 pounds. Men of this class could bring out their +own labourers; and as an encouragement for them to do so, we should +recommend that they should receive an equivalent in land, to the amount +that they have necessarily expended in the outfit and passage of +themselves, families, and servants. An arrangement of this nature would +enable a man possessing capital to the extent we have mentioned, to +commence farming with advantage, the moment of his arrival in the +district; while, without it, the means of a most valuable class of +colonists would be swallowed up in expenses, and upon their landing +here, emigrants with limited capital, would find themselves very little +better off than before they left their native land. + +"Could the fertility of the country and salubrity of its climate be +pointed out, together with advantages such as those we have mentioned, +we doubt not that numbers of the class we allude to, would be found +willing, and even anxious to avail themselves of the facilities which +this district in particular promises to emigrants. + +"Any delay occurring in their obtaining suitable land immediately on +their arrival, would of course prove fatal to the success of the +undertaking. To obviate such a misfortune, we would recommend that a +considerable number of plots of ground be surveyed and ready for +selection by the emigrants, and that every facility be afforded them +immediately to obtain the spots thus chosen, either by public sale or +otherwise, as shall be deemed most advisable by his Honour the +Lieutenant-Governor. + +"By a more extensive emigration than this appears to contemplate, or +rather by the simultaneous emigration of persons sufficient in number, +and suitable in character for forming communities of themselves, the +towns and villages might be peopled, and the adjacent lands brought +under cultivation. After a few of these shall be thus established, the +remaining intervals of country will speedily be filled up, and the more +so when each township shall be provided with its magistrate, minister of +religion, the requisite public buildings, and the means of defence. + +"Most of the associations connected in the mind of an European with the +name of Kaffir, have been formed upon the represented bad character and +conduct of the nation so called, now engaged in a serious and expensive +war with the old Colony; and are consequently highly unfavourable to any +people bearing a name which, by common consent, attributes all the +cunning faithlessness of the savage, with an admixture of many of the +depravities of civilised life, to its bearer. + +"In our Report of the 30th of March last, we pointed out the peculiar +position and character of the natives inhabiting the district; it will, +therefore, be unnecessary for us to say more on this, than that they are +widely different from those on the frontier of the old colony, and are +valuable and indispensable assistants to the white settler. We take +occasion to make these remarks, because we are of opinion that when the +recommendations we have made in our General Report shall have been +carried out, the presence of so many natives, most of them available as +labourers, should be an inducement to emigrants selecting this district +as the land of their adoption, rather than operate prejudicially. + +"The future prospects of the district of Natal as a colony, depend very +materially, if not exclusively, upon the filling up of the unoccupied +intervals of the district with emigrants from the United Kingdom, and +the efficient management and control of the native population within it. +Its general capabilities, as we have already represented, are of the +highest class, either for agricultural or grazing purposes. It contains +an area of 18,000 square miles, within which is found every material for +improvement and prosperity a colony can be favoured with, and requires +but an intelligent white population to develop its immense and fertile +resources. + +"Building stone of a very good quality is found all over its surface; +and in some localities a superior description of free-stone is found in +abundance. Iron ore is found in great abundance in the district, and +has been used by the natives for their assegais and agricultural +implements, and is said to be of a very superior quality. + +"The prices realised in England for the first exportation of cotton +grown in this district, exhibited under all the disadvantageous +circumstances connected with the utter inexperience on the part of the +grower, of 7.25 pence per pound, warrants an inference highly favourable +to the quality of the article, when it shall have received the treatment +that experience has taught to be necessary in cotton-growing countries. + +"We are of opinion that this district inhabited by an industrious white +population, will produce valuable exports, both in amount and quality, +and is capable of maintaining a denser population than the colony of the +Cape of Good Hope; and we trust that its resources and advantages may +not become lost to the subjects of the British crown, from their not +being represented as their high merits appear to us to deserve. + +"In this Report," Mr Stanger remarks, "I shall not enter fully into the +geography of the interior of the district, reserving that for a future +time, as I shall have a good opportunity of continuing the same kind of +observations, and thus fixing more points than at present I have been +able to do, during the proposed enquiry as to the location of the +natives; but shall describe, as far as I am able, the boundary and +extent of the district of Natal. + +"The Umzinyati rises at the base of the Draakberg, in latitude 27 +degrees 46 minutes and longitude 20 degrees 25 minutes; from this its +course is about E.S.E., until it falls into the Utukela (incorrectly +called the Tukela.) From all the information I can obtain, (not having +yet visited this part of the district) this is below the confluence of +the Mooi River and the Utukela, and therefore not very far from the +mouth of the latter, which from the maps appears to be in latitude 29 +degrees 16 minutes South and longitude 31 degrees 30 minutes East; thus +forming the north-eastern boundary of the district. + +"The country below the rise of the Umzinyati, and for the distance of +about twenty miles, is for the most part flat and undulating, with +little or no wood, but covered with sweet grass, and from what I can +ascertain is considered a good tract for country sheep. + +"The river, when I saw it (in February, 1847), was about sixty yards +wide, it being then full of water; below this, and during its whole +course, I understand it runs through a broken and thick bushy country. + +"The Draakberg, instead of being considered as one continuous chain of +mountains, may be more correctly divided into two, of different +geological structure, and having different directions: the one forming +the north-western boundary I shall call the Great Draakberg; and the +other, forming the western boundary, the Small Draakberg. + +"The north-western portion of the Draakberg is of the average altitude +of five thousand feet above the sea, and about fifteen hundred feet +above the general level of the country at its base. + +"The outline is in general round and soft, presenting some remarkable +features, and occasionally high table-lands with precipitous sides. +These mountains are composed of beds of sandstone, cut through by veins +of trap, and diminish in height as they advance to the north-east, until +at some distance beyond the source of the Umzinyati they appear to +terminate in low hills. They are passable almost at any part by horses +and cattle; but there are only three passes in use by the Boers, one +near Bezuidenhout's Farm, in latitude 28 degrees 33 minutes South and +longitude 28 degrees 44 minutes East; and one at De Beer's, in latitude +28 degrees 20 minutes South and longitude 28 degrees 52 minutes East, +and another a little more to the south-west of Bezuidenhout's. The two +former are in constant use; the latter rarely. + +"Timber abounds in the kloofs on the south-eastern side of the mountain. +On the north-west the country is much higher, being a plain of great +elevation. + +"The Great Draakberg, or that portion of it which forms the western +boundary, has a direction N.N.W. and S.S.E. The junction of this with +the former, or Small Draakberg, is ten or twelve miles to the S.W. of +Bezuidenhout's Pass:--from this part the Utukela rises. + +"These mountains are much higher than the others, and are quite +impassable, presenting a rugged outline and bold and precipitous +escarpments. From a distant view, from the nature of the outline (not +having been near them) I infer that they are granitic. + +"The area of this district, from the ascertained and assumed boundaries +will be much greater than has hitherto been supposed. It cannot, I +imagine, be less than 13,500 instead of 10,000 square miles. At the +same time it must be remembered, that if I find by my future +observations, (which I think will very probably be the case) the same +amount of error, and in the same direction in the southern portion of +the district, of which at present I know nothing, as I have found in the +northern, the area will be increased by a great quantity, and may not +fall far short of 16,000 square miles, as a small deviation in the +assigned direction of the Great Draakberg will easily make that +quantity. + +"The district is everywhere covered with vegetation, either in the form +of luxuriant grass, which grows to a great height, or thorns and low +bushes. Timber trees only grow in kloofs on sides of hills, excepting a +belt which runs along the sea-coast. + +"Water abounds in every part, and flowing streams cross the path at +intervals of only a few miles. In the winter some of these become dry, +but then water may always be obtained at moderate distances. + +"The soil is in all cases well adapted for cultivation, and on the +alluvial lands near rivers particularly so, producing much larger crops +than are ever grown in the Colony of the Cape of Good Hope. + +"The rocks which occur in the district, as far as I have yet seen, are +granite, basalt, and members of the trap family, slate, sandstone, and +shale. + +"Coal containing but little bituminous matter occurs in in beds in the +sandstone. In a kloof near the drift of the Bushman's River, there is a +bed nine inches thick. This is the nearest locality I am aware of to +Pietermaritzburg; it is distant about sixty-three miles. It is more +abundant to the north-west, and I observed it in a small river near +Biggar's Berg, in about latitude 28 degrees 7 minutes South, and +longitude 29 degrees 25 minutes East, in a bed six feet thick, and of +good quality; it is here cut through by a vein of trap." + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + +Note 1. In the Blue Book for 1847, the latest published account, the +numbers stand, 71,113 white, and 75,977 coloured; but this leaves more +than 21,000 of the total unaccounted for. + + + +PART ONE, CHAPTER TWO. + +INFORMATION FOR EMIGRANTS. + +As it is my wish to put nothing but trustworthy information into the +hands of those who may be meditating so very important a step as +removing themselves and all that they value far from their native land, +I have carefully abstracted the following statements from the last +_Colonisation Circular_, issued (March, 1850) by Her Majesty's Colonial +Land and Emigration Commissioners. + +"The Government Emigration Officers in the United Kingdom, are:--London: +Lieut. Lean, R.N., Office, 70, Lower Thames-Street. Liverpool: Lieut. +Hodder, R.N., Stanley Buildings. Plymouth: Lieut. Carew, R.N. Glasgow +and Greenock: Capt. Patey, R.N. Dublin: Lieut. Henry, R.N. Cork: Lieut. +Friend, R.N. Belfast: Lieut. Stark, R.N. Limerick: Mr Lynch, R.N. +Sligo, Donegal, Ballina etc: Lieut. Shuttleworth, R.N.; Lieut. +Moriarty, R.N. Londonderry: Lieut. Ramsay, R.N. Waterford and New Res. +Comm. Ellis, R.N. + +"These officers act under the immediate directions of the Colonial Land +and Emigration Commissioners, and the following is a summary of their +duties: + +"They procure and give gratuitously information as to the sailing of +ships, and means of accommodation for emigrants, and whenever applied to +for that purpose, they see that any agreements between shipowners, +agents or masters, and intending emigrants are duly performed. They +also see that the provisions of the Passengers' Act are strictly +complied with, viz., that passenger-vessels are sea-worthy, that they +have on board a sufficient supply of provisions, water, medicines, etc, +and that they sail with proper punctuality. + +"They attend personally at their offices on every week-day and afford +gratuitously all the assistance in their power to protect intending +emigrants against fraud and imposition, and to obtain redress where +oppression or injury has been practised on them. + +"The Government Immigration Agents at the Cape of Good Hope, are--Cape +Town: R. Southey, Esq. Port Elizabeth: D.P. Francis, Esq. + +"The duties of these officers are to afford gratuitously to emigrants +every assistance in their power by way of advice and information as to +the districts where employment can be obtained most readily, and upon +the most advantageous terms, and also as to the best modes of reaching +such districts. + +"The rate of passage in private ships to the Cape of Good Hope and Natal +is: + +"At the Cape of Good Hope, persons of the following classes, if of good +character and ability in their callings, are stated to be in demand; +viz. agricultural labourers, shepherds, female domestic and farm +servants, and a few country mechanics, such as blacksmiths, +wheelwrights, carpenters, and masons." + +Of the rates of wages the Commissioners give the following Tables from +the latest official returns in their possession: + +As very many persons who would be most useful in the Colonies have no +means of their own for proceeding thither, various provisions have been +made to assist them. Thus the Emigration Commissioners "grant passages +to those Colonies (only) which provide the necessary funds for the +purpose. These funds, which in the Australian Colonies are derived from +sales or rents of crown lands, are intended not for the purposes of +relief to persons in this country, but to supply the colonists with the +particular description of labour of which they stand most in need. New +South Wales, South Australia, and the Cape of Good Hope, are at present +the only Colonies which supply the means for emigration." + +The Poor Law Commissioners, too, are enabled to assist in emigration, +and the guardians of the poor in parishes are by them allowed to raise +sums of money for the purpose, of which they "may expend a sum not +exceeding 3 pence a mile in conveying each emigrant above seven years of +age to the port of embarkation, and a sum not exceeding 1.5 pence a mile +in conveying each child under seven years of age. + +"The guardians may give to each emigrant proceeding to the Cape of Good +Hope, clothing to the value of 2 pounds, and may expend a sum not +exceeding 1 pound for each person above fourteen, and 10 shillings for +every child above one and under fourteen years of age, and in cases of +free emigration, 2 pounds for every single man above eighteen years of +age, in the purchase of bedding and utensils for the voyage." + +The following are the regulations and conditions under which emigrants +are selected by the Emigration Commissioners for passages to the Cape of +Good Hope: + +"_Description of Emigrants_. + +"1. The emigrants must consist principally of married couples, not +above forty years of age. All the adults must be capable of labour, and +must be going out to work for wages. The candidates most acceptable are +young married couples without children. + +"2. The separation of husbands from wives, and of parents from children +under sixteen will in no case be allowed. + +"3. Except in special cases, single women under eighteen are not +eligible, unless they are emigrating with their parents, or under the +immediate care of some near married relatives. + +"4. Young men under eighteen, not accompanying their parents, are +admissible only on payment of the sum in third class of the scale. + +"5. No emigrants, whether adults or children can be accepted unless +they have been vaccinated, or have had the smallpox. + +"6. Persons intending to buy land in the colony, or to invest capital +in trade there, are not eligible for a passage. + +"7. Persons in the habitual receipt of parish relief cannot be taken. +Temporary inmates of workhouses, or persons not in the habitual receipt +of parish relief, will be charged under the third class. + +"8. No applicant will be accepted without decisive certificates of good +character, and of proficiency in his professed trade or calling. + +"These rules will also apply generally to emigrants to Natal in case +they be proposed for a passage by purchasers of land, or in case funds +should be provided for carrying on emigration at the public expense. +The persons eligible for passages to Natal would be agricultural +labourers, mechanics, skilled labourers, and small farmers accustomed to +some manual labour, and intending to work for their subsistence. +Deposits to the credit of the Commissioners do not exempt the depositors +from the payment of survey fees. + +"_Application and Approval_. + +"9. Applications must be made in a form to be obtained at the office of +the Commissioners, which must be duly filled up and attested, as +explained in the form itself, and then forwarded to this office, with +certificates of birth and marriage of the applicants. It must, however, +be distinctly understood, that the filling up of the form confers no +claim to a passage; and that the Commissioners do not pledge themselves +to accept any candidates, though apparently within the regulations, +unless they are deemed desirable for the colony, and can be accepted +consistently with the Board's arrangements at the time the application +is under consideration. + +"10. If approved of, the emigrants will receive a passage as soon as +the arrangements of the Commissioners will admit. But no preparations +must on any account be made by the applicants, either by withdrawing +from employment or otherwise, until the decision of the Board has been +communicated to them. Those who fail to attend to this warning will do +so at their own risk, and will have no claim whatever on the +Commissioners. + +"Before an embarkation order is issued, the following payments will be +required from all persons of fourteen years and upwards. + +"All children under fourteen will pay 10 shillings each; and if any +family contains, at the time of embarkation, more than two children +under fourteen years of age, for each such child 5 shillings additional +must be paid. + +"Wives to pay the same sums as their husbands, in the several classes. + +"Out of the above payments, bedding and mess utensils for the use of the +emigrants during the voyage, will be provided by the Commissioners. + +"The mode of making these payments to the Commissioners will be pointed +out in the deposit circular. The Commissioners' selecting agents are +not employed by the Commissioners to receive money." + +Any attempted fraud with regard to the signatures of the requisite +certificates, or misrepresentation as to trade, number in family, will +be held to disqualify the party for a passage. The emigrants must +repair to the appointed port at their own expense, and if they fail to +do so at the proper time, they will lose their passage and be liable to +a forfeiture of 2 pounds for each adult, and 1 pound for each child, +unless they give to the Commissioners timely notice, and a satisfactory +explanation of their inability to proceed. + +"Clothing.--The lowest quantity that can be admitted for emigrants to +the Cape is as follows:--" + ++========================================+=======================+ +|For Males. |For Females. | ++----------------------------------------+-----------------------+ +|Four shirts. |Six shifts. | ++----------------------------------------+-----------------------+ +|Four pairs stockings. |Two flannel petticoats.| ++----------------------------------------+-----------------------+ +|Two pairs shoes. |Four pairs stockings. | ++----------------------------------------+-----------------------+ +|Two complete suits of exterior clothing.|Two pairs shoes. | ++----------------------------------------+-----------------------+ +| |Two gowns. | ++========================================+=======================+ + +"For use on the voyage, shoes or slippers are much more convenient than +boots. The following is a cheap and excellent composition for +preserving leather from the bad effects of sea-water; linseed oil, one +gill; spirit of turpentine, one ounce; bees'-wax, one ounce; Burgundy +pitch, half ounce; to be well melted together, and kept covered in a +gallipot; lay it on boots or or shoes, rubbing it in well, and set them +in a hot sun, or before the fire. + +"The usual length of the voyage to the Cape of Good Hope is about +seventy days. + +"The whole quantity of baggage for each adult emigrant must not measure +more than twenty cubic or solid feet, nor exceed half a ton in weight. +It must be divided into two or three boxes, the contents of which must +be closely packed, so as to save space in the ship. Large packages and +extra baggage will not be taken unless paid for, and then only in case +there be room in the ship. + +"Each family will be allowed to take only its own luggage. Any +violation of this rule will subject the party to a forfeiture of his +passage. + +"On arrival in the colony the emigrants will be at perfect liberty to +engage themselves to any one willing to employ them, and to make their +own bargain for wages. No repayment or service is required from them +for the passage out. The only return expected is, a strict observance +on board of the regulations framed with a view to their health and +comfort during the voyage, and general good conduct and industrious +habits in the colony. + +"Letters, etc, should be addressed, post paid, to Stephen Walcott, Esq, +Secretary to the Board of Emigration, Number 9, Park Street, +Westminster." + +By a recent Act of Parliament known as the "Passenger Act," some most +valuable provisions are made for the protection of emigrants on their +voyage. The Act applies to foreign as well as British ships, and it +provides for the inspection of the ships by competent surveyors; for +carrying a certain number of boats; for a proper supply of medicine; and +for preventing drunkenness. It further directs that "in addition to any +provisions which the passengers may themselves bring, the following +quantities at least of pure water and wholesome provisions must be +supplied to each passenger by the master during the voyage, including +the time of detention at any place:--" + +3 quarts of water daily. + +And per week. To be issued in advance, and not less often than twice a +week: + + 2.5 lbs. of bread or biscuit (not inferior to navy biscuit) + 1 lb. wheaten flour + 5 lbs. oatmeal + 2 lbs. rice + 2 oz. tea + 1 lb. sugar + 1 lb. molasses. + +"Five pounds of good potatoes may at the option of the master be +substituted for one pound of oatmeal or rice, and in ships sailing from +Liverpool, or from Irish or Scotch ports, oatmeal may be substituted in +equal quantities for the whole or any part of the issues of rice. The +Emigration Commissioners, with the authority of the Secretary of State, +may substitute other articles of food.--Sec. 24 and 25. + +"Vessels carrying as many as 100 passengers must be provided with a +seafaring person to act as passengers' cook, and also with a proper +cooking apparatus. A convenient place must be set apart on deck for +cooking, and a proper supply of food shipped for the voyage. The whole +to be subject to the approval of the Emigration Officer.--Sec. 26. + +"If the ship does not sail on the appointed day, and the passengers are +ready to embark, they are entitled to recover from the owner, charterer, +or master of the ship, subsistence-money after the rate of 1 shilling +per day for each passenger. But if the ship be unavoidably detained by +wind or weather, and the passengers be maintained on board in the same +manner as if the voyage had commenced, no subsistence-money is +payable.--Sec. 33. + +"Passengers are not to be landed against their consent at any place +other than the one contracted for, and they are entitled to sleep and to +be maintained on board for forty-eight hours after arrival, unless the +ship in the prosecution of her voyage quits the port sooner.--Sec. 35 +and 36. + +"Ships detained in port after clearance more than seven days, or putting +into any port in the United Kingdom, must under a penalty not exceeding +100 pounds, replenish their provisions, water, and medical stores before +they can be allowed to proceed on their voyage. Masters of passenger +ships putting back must, under a penalty not exceeding 10 pounds, within +twenty-four hours report their arrival, and the cause of putting back, +and the condition of the ship's stores to the Emigration Officer, and +produce the official list of passengers.--Sec. 38. + +"Such regulations as may be prescribed by order of the Queen in Council +are to be enforced by the surgeon, aided and assisted by the master, or +in the absence of a surgeon, by the master. Any person neglecting or +refusing to obey them will be liable to a penalty of 2 pounds; and any +person obstructing the master or surgeon in the execution of any duty +imposed on him by the Order in Council, will be liable to the same +penalty, and moreover to one month's imprisonment at the end of the +voyage.--Sec. 39 and 40. + +"Two copies of the Act, with such abstracts of it, and of any Order in +Council relating thereto, as the Colonial Land and Emigration +Commissioners may prepare, are to be delivered to the master, who is +bound, under a penalty not exceeding 40 shillings per diem, to post up +previous to the embarkation of the passengers, and to keep posted up in +at least two conspicuous places between the decks, such copies of such +abstracts so long as any passengers are entitled to remain on board. +Any person displacing or defacing this abstract is liable to a penalty +not exceeding 40 shillings.--Sec. 41. + +"The requirements of the Act are enforced by penalties on the master not +exceeding 50 pounds except in cases where other penalties are +specifically imposed. All penalties are to be sued for before two or +more justices of the peace, to the use of Her Majesty. They can only be +recovered in the United Kingdom by the Emigration Officers, or by the +officers of Her Majesty's Customs; and in the British possessions +abroad, by those officers, or by any other person duly authorised for +the purpose by the Governor of the colony. Sec. 50 and 52. + +"Passengers themselves, however, or the Emigration Officers on their +behalf, may recover, by a similar process, any sum of money made +recoverable by the Act, to their own use, as return of passage-money, +subsistence-money, or compensation; and, in such cases, the passengers +are not to be deemed incompetent witnesses.--Sec. 53 and 56. + +"The right of passengers to proceed at law for any breach of contract is +not abridged by proceedings taken under this Act.--Sec. 37." + +For the use of the more opulent classes, the Commissioners have +published the following summary of the terms upon which land may be +purchased in Southern Africa. + +"1. The unappropriated Crown lands at the Cape of Good Hope, and Natal, +are sold in freehold, and by public auction only. + +"2. Unless it is otherwise notified, the upset price will be at the +Cape, two shillings per acre, (one acre is about half a morgen), and at +Natal four shillings per acre, but the Governor, for the time being, +will have the power to fix such higher upset price as the locality, or +other circumstances, may render expedient, of which due notice will +always be publicly given. Lands not sold at auction may afterwards be +purchased at the upset price on payment of the whole purchase money. + +"3. Persons desirous of becoming purchasers will apply, in writing, to +the Secretary to Government respecting the land they wish to have put up +for sale; stating in what division it is situated, and as far as +practicable, its position, boundaries, and probable extent. + +"These applications, after being recorded in the Colonial Office, will +be transmitted to the Surveyor-General, who, if he sees no objection to +the land being disposed of, will call upon the applicant to deposit with +him the probable expense of the survey; which expense will be calculated +upon the following tariff, and be borne by the eventual purchaser. + +"4. Should the applicant not become the purchaser, the amount deposited +by him will be refunded when paid by the eventual purchaser; but should +no sale take place, no refund can be made. + +"5. Lands offered for sale will be advertised for two months in the +`Government Gazette,' at the expiration of which time they will be sold +by public auction. + +"6. Ten per cent of the purchase money must be paid at the time of +sale, and the balance, (with the expenses of the survey, if the +purchaser did not make the deposit), within one calendar month from the +day of sale: in default of which, the ten per cent so paid, will be +forfeited to the Colonial Treasury. + +"7. Persons desirous of acquiring Crown lands at the Cape of Natal, +will be at liberty to make deposits at the Bank of England to the credit +of the Colonial Land and Emigration Commissioners, upon the same +conditions, and with the like privileges as are prescribed in the case +of the Australian colonies [see Note 1], with this exception, that for +every hundred pound so paid in, the depositor will be allowed to name +for a free passage to the colony seven, instead of five properly +qualified emigrants. + +"Officers of the Army and Navy, whether on full or half pay, who may +wish to settle at the Cape of Good Hope, are allowed a remission of the +purchase money varying from 600 pounds to 200 pounds according to their +rank and length of service. + +"Military chaplains, commissariat officers, and officers of any of the +civil departments of the army; pursers, chaplains, midshipmen, warrant +officers of every description, and officers of any of the civil +departments of the navy, are not allowed any privileges in respect of +land. Although members of these classes may have been admitted +formerly, and under different circumstances, they are now excluded. +Mates in the royal navy rank with ensigns in the army, and mates of +three years standing with lieutenants in the army, and are entitled +respectively to corresponding privileges in the acquisition of lands." + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + +Note 1. "Persons will be at liberty to make payments for colonial lands +in this country, for which payment or deposit they will receive an order +for credit to the same amount in any purchase of land they may effect in +the colony, and will have the privilege of naming a proportionate number +of emigrants for a free passage, as explained in the next article. The +deposits must be made in one or more sums of 100 pounds each at the Bank +of England, to the account of the Colonial Land and Emigration +Commissioners; and the depositor must state at the time the colony in +which the land is to be selected, and give notice to the Commissioners +of the deposit. Upon production of the Bank's receipt for the money, +the Commissioners will furnish the depositor with a certificate, stating +the amount which he has paid, and entitling him to obtain credit for +that sum in any purchase which he may effect in the colony, subject to +all rules and regulations in force in the colony at the time such +purchase may be made. + +"For every sum of 100 pounds deposited as above, the depositor will be +entitled, for six months from the date of payment, to name a number of +properly qualified emigrants, equal to five adults, for a free passage. +Two children between one and fourteen are to be reckoned as one adult. +The emigrants are required to be chosen from the class of mechanics and +handicraftsmen, agricultural labourers, or domestic servants, and must +be going out with the intention to work for wages. They are to be +subject to the approval of the Commissioners, and must, in all respects, +fall within their general regulations on the selection of labourers. +The purchaser and his family cannot receive a free passage under this +privilege." + + + +PART ONE, CHAPTER THREE. + +HISTORY OF THE CAPE COLONY. + +The renowned promontory of the Cape was first doubled by the Portuguese +navigator, Bartholomew Diaz, in the year 1487, but the discovery was not +looked on as of any other importance than as opening the maritime route +to India which that nation had so long sought after. Ten years later De +Gama passed along the southern and eastern coast of Africa, and coming +in sight of a fertile, pleasant country on Christmas day, he gave it the +name of the Land of the Nativity, (Terra Natal) whence the appellation +by which it is now known. In 1620, two of the officers of the English +Merchant Adventurers landed in Saldanha Bay, and took formal possession +of the country, in the name of James the First, but no European, +settlement was attempted until the year 1650, when the Dutch India +Company, at the recommendation of a surgeon of one of their ships, named +Van Riebeck, placed a colony on the shore of Table Bay, further +southward, for the purpose of affording supplies to their fleets. + +Though the colony was at first composed, as was usual in those days, of +persons of abandoned character, it grew and prospered, and in the course +of about thirty years it received an accession of population of +admirable character in the persons of French and German Protestant +refugees, whom the atrocious proceedings of Louis the Fourteenth, in +revoking the Edict of Nantes, and ravaging the Palatinate with fire and +sword, had rendered homeless. These estimable exiles introduced the +culture of the vine and other improvements, and the colony gradually +spread itself along the belt of level land which extends itself eastward +between the Lange Kloof and the sea. + +About the same time Natal was visited by order of the Governor, and some +idea was entertained of forming a settlement there, but, for some reason +not now known, the project was abandoned. + +The Dutch continued in peaceable possession of the colony for more than +one hundred years longer, and had gradually spread themselves either as +settlers or elephant hunters almost to the borders of the Orange River, +when in 1795, a small English force, under General Craig and Sir Alured +Clarke appeared, and the whole territory was at once surrendered. At +the peace of Amiens, in 1802, it was restored to Holland; but in 1806 it +again came into the hands of England, and was finally ceded to us in +1814. [Note 2.] + +From the period of our establishment in the colony in 1806 till 1827 +(with the exception of a change in the currency very displeasing to the +Dutch), we were contented to stand by the laws by which it had been +governed, with only such occasional amendments and modifications as the +change of circumstances required. In that year, however, after three or +four years' notice and consideration, a code of English laws (not +exactly the laws of England) was adopted. As, from their +non-acquaintance with our language, it was impossible to make the Dutch +thoroughly conversant with the principles upon which these laws were +framed, they soon became discontented. The clerks in the public +offices, to whom they applied occasionally for information, were unable +to give their time to listen to their grievances; and, had they been +inclined to enlighten them, their ignorance of the Dutch language +rendered it impracticable. Previously to this, every district had been +governed by a magistrate, or Landrost. He had to assist him a council +of eight individuals, called Hemraaden, chosen from among the most +respectable and influential landholders, who informed the inhabitants of +all events and changes occurring in the colony and its laws, explained +all difficulties, heard all complaints, and were, in short, the medium +of communication between the people and the authorities. The English +Laws completely superseded these arrangements, and the utter want of +education among the Dutch, particularly the scattered farmers, rendered +them jealous and suspicious of their new legislators, whose system +(practically or theoretically) they could not understand. + +It is true that the bad condition, and, in many cases, the ill-usage of +the Hottentots, called for investigation and amendment; but many +attempts that were made to ameliorate their condition proved vain, from +being as defective as they were ill-executed. General Bourke passed an +ordinance, freeing the Hottentot race from all those restraints which +are found absolutely necessary for the preservation of social order in +all civilised communities. The consequence of this ill-advised decree +is manifested to this day, for it is the cause of the gradual +self-extermination (so to speak) of the race. The mischief, however, +was done, and as a remedy the location of a number of them as an +agricultural community on the Kit River was tried. A few respectable +individuals are still to be found among them there, and in some other +localities, but these are a mixed race, and it may be said that the +original Hottentot race has been gradually but surely dwindling away +since the enactment of the above-mentioned 50th Ordnance. + +Just as matters stood a chance of finding their level, the farmer +beginning to try to accustom himself to bear the inconveniences arising +from the Hottentot's freedom from all restraint, and consequent contempt +of servitude (for on the enactment of the 50th Ordinance they had taken +to a life of vagrancy, spurning all work), the Kaffirs sounded their +war-cry, and burst upon the colony. This was in 1834. It arose thus. + +From the depredations and encroachments of the Kaffirs on the Hottentot +location in the Kat River settlement, the authorities ordered the +expulsion of the Kaffir chief, Charlie, (so called by the express desire +of his father, Gaika, after Lord Charles Somerset), from a portion of +the neutral territory [Note 2] which he had been allowed to occupy on +sufferance during good behaviour. This indulgence he had clearly +forfeited, the depredations being almost invariably traced to his +locality. Though, on solemn promise of amendment, he had been +subsequently permitted to resume his position, yet, from the natural +ingratitude of his race, and the pains taken by his _soi-disant_ and +injudicious European friends to persuade him how ill he had been treated +by his original expulsion,--after a few months of smothered ill-will, +the volcano burst, and these savages poured, _en masse_, into the +colony; fire, devastation, and the murderous blade marking their +progress throughout this astonished, peaceable, and, with trifling +exceptions, unprotected frontier, to the ruin of thousands--a ruin from +which many have never recovered, notwithstanding the strenuous exertions +of their best friend, Sir Benjamin D'Urban. Under his able +governments--crippled as it was by a change in the Ministry--the colony, +after the war, resumed the appearance and probability of peace, when +another great event altered the face of everything. Suddenly there was +a voice, which went through all the countries of the known earth, crying +aloud, "Let the slave be free!" + +The Dutch were quite ready to listen to the voice that cried shame at +the idea of seizing our fellow-creatures, packing them like herrings in +slave-ships, and bartering for them in the market. Every one of good +feeling revolted at the custom, and looked for the remedy. But how to +set about the remedy should have been considered. The chain was broken, +and the people of England hurrahed to their heart's content. And the +slave! What, in the meanwhile, became of him? If he was young and +vicious, away he went--he was his own master. He was at liberty to walk +to and fro upon the earth, "seeking whom he might devour." He was +free--he had the world before him where to choose, though, squatted +beside the Kaffir's fire, probably thinking his meal of parched corn but +poor stuff after the palatable dishes he had been permitted to cook for +himself in the Boer's, or tradesman's kitchen. But he was fain to like +it--he could get nothing else, and this was earned at the expense of his +own soul; for it was given him as an inducement to teach the Kaffir the +easiest mode of plundering his ancient master. If inclined to work, he +had no certain prospect of employment, and the Dutch, losing so much by +the sudden Emancipation Act, resolved on working for themselves. So the +virtuous redeemed slave had too many temptations to remain virtuous. He +was hungry--so was his wife--so were his children; and he must feed +them. How? No matter. + +And the aged slave! He sat himself down on the hearth to which he had +been accustomed, but he had no longer a right to the shelter of the +roof-tree under which he had lived and his children had been born. He, +too, must beg for food; but he was so old he could hardly crawl. He +grew sick; there was none to take care of him but the charitable; and, +fortunately for the poor, the aged, and the sick, there _was_ charity in +the land. Of what availed the slave's freedom, under such +circumstances? Still, some were harmless. It was the vicious negro who +rejoiced in his freedom, and taught the Kaffir how best to rob and +murder, till most probably the Kaffir murdered him, or made him toil +harder than he had ever done under the Boer. + +Then, the Dutch grumbled not so much at the emancipation, as at the +manner of it. Even when they were willing to hire those who had been +their slaves, they hesitated to receive as servants those over whom the +law gave no control. As an indemnification for the loss of their +slaves, the owners obtained, on the average, about one-third of the +value of them. From their not being paid their compensation-money in +the colony, but being obliged to draw it from England, their loss by +agencies and misunderstanding was very great. + +The discontented Dutch, who had been gradually irritated by these +proceedings, now began to migrate with their families over various +branches of the Orange River, to the north-east of the colony. They +were forbidden to take their apprentices with them; but in many +instances they disregarded this order, and parties of military being +sent after them, to bring the apprentices back to the colony, this +measure increased the feelings of resentment already excited in the +minds of the Dutch towards the English, and the commanders of such +military parties ran imminent risks of their lives in the execution of +these duties. Having established themselves in various localities +beyond the north-eastern boundary, and having no legal executive among +themselves, the Boers occasionally returned to the colony when any +appeal to justice was required; but, by degrees, the stream of +emigration having set steadily outwards, it swelled to such an extent +that it called for more room in its progress, and, spreading itself +beyond the limits of British jurisdiction or restraint, at length +reached Natal. The most determined emigrants came to a resolution to +establish for themselves, in the neighbourhood of that port, a colony +totally independent of British rule, and regulated by their own laws. +Meanwhile the Kaffir war had been, by the energy and decision of Sir +Benjamin D'Urban and Colonel Smith (now Sir Harry Smith, the hero of +Aliwal, and the Governor of the Cape), brought to an end. The +aggressors were driven from the colony, and also from a neighbouring +district between the Keiskama and the Kei, which was erected into a +province called Adelaide, and stringent measures taken to prevent their +again bursting into the colony. But these measures were disapproved of +by Lord Glenelg, then the Colonial Secretary, the new district was +abandoned, Sir Benjamin D'Urban resigned, and, under the auspices of Sir +Andries Stockenstrom, the Lieutenant-Governor of the eastern province, +new treaties, since known by his name, were formed, which public opinion +in Africa almost universally condemns as the real cause of the late +deplorable warfare. Since then, the policy that framed them has been +abandoned, and the statesmanlike views of Sir Benjamin are at the +present day being carried out by his former coadjutor, Sir Harry Smith. + +About the year 1841 the settlement of the emigrant Boers had attained +something like the appearance of a regular state. They had, partly by +force and partly by purchase, obtained possession of a considerable +tract of country, and had founded a town, which they called +Pietermaritzburg, and after some correspondence with the Government at +the Cape, they declared themselves independent. On this a small British +force was despatched to Port Natal, but it was unable to effect anything +against them until the arrival of reinforcements, when the Boers +promised submission to the Queen's authority; but soon after they began +again to move onward, under their general, Pretorius, and it was not +until Sir Harry Smith came among them, at the close of the Kaffir war, +that they could be considered as fully under the control of the British +Government. Even up to the present time their position with regard to +it is anything but satisfactory, as the following extract from a letter +recently received from the Cape (September 14, 1850), will +show:--"Matters have looked a little portentous over the Orange River. +The Boers, far beyond Bloem Fontein, under Pretorius, are determined +that no one shall pass through their territory to the newly-discovered +lake (Lake Ngami), and have already fined some severely. The lake will +be easy of access down the Limpopo (river), which runs through the +Boers' country into it, as is believed; all other ways, as far as is +known, are through deserts, and the ignorant people (Boers) will not +suffer the missionaries to teach the natives about them. It would be +unsafe to send any expedition under seven hundred men there, as +Pretorius is more than 250 miles beyond any military station." + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + +Note 1. The Boers, however, had little liking for this arrangement, +which severed them from their parent country, and their hearts yearned +towards a reunion with it. Of this I had a positive assurance before it +was my fate to visit the colony myself. In the year 1838 I had the +honour of making the acquaintance of H.R.H. Prince William Henry of +Orange, who was on his voyage home in the "Bellona" frigate from Java, +_via_ Saint Helena. He dwelt with great pleasure on the circumstance of +several Dutch families having travelled many miles from the interior to +meet him at Cape Town, when he touched there. Aged men and women, who +had scarcely moved out of their farm sitting-room for years, hastened to +meet a Prince from their beloved Fatherland. + +Note 2. Shortly after Lord Charles Somerset succeeded to the government +of the Cape, in 1817, Graham's Town being attacked by Makanna, the +pretended Kaffir prophet, a witch-doctor, Colonel, now Major-General Sir +Thomas Wiltshire, after defeating a horde of these savages, followed up +his success by pursuing them into their own country, where he forced +them to sue for peace. This was granted, on condition of their +surrendering Makanna, and giving up in atonement for their past, and as +security against future offences, that tract of country lying between +the Fish and Kat Rivers on the one side, and the Tyumie and Keiskama on +the other. + + + +PART ONE, CHAPTER FOUR. + +THE KAFFIRS AND THE ABORIGINES. + +Though the publications on the Cape colony are already so numerous, and +they all more or less profess to describe the native inhabitants, it is +certain that we yet know very little of their real character; more +especially of the character of the Kaffirs. These are often painted as +an aboriginal race, "a pastoral and gentle people." They are neither +the one nor the other. They are intruders on the lands that they +occupy; their habits are the most savage imaginable; [see Note 1] their +treachery is well-known to all who have been unfortunate enough to come +in contact with them, and the conversions among them in ninety-nine +cases out of the hundred have no other existence than in the warm +imaginations of the well-meaning but ill-informed members of Missionary +Societies. What converts there are, are principally from the despised +slaves of the haughty Kaffirs, the Fingoes. + +There are some missionary stations within a ride of Fort Peddie,--one of +them, D'Urban, being scarcely a mile from the post. I rode over there +one day, to see a Fingo congregation. Among them, indeed, were some +Kaffirs; in foot, it was composed of many shades of colour, the +pale-faced Englishman, the dingy children of fair-haired mothers and +dusky fathers, the sallow, stunted Hottentot, the merry-eyed Fingo, and +the more dignified Kaffir. On our approach to the building, we +distinguished a loud monotonous voice holding forth in the Kaffir +language, without the smallest attention to intonation, or emphasis. +This was the interpreter. In the missionary's absence, an assistant +preached in Dutch, which was translated, sentence by sentence, into +Kaffir. The unconcerned air of the interpreter, and his reckless bawl, +were much at variance with the wrapt air of attention bestowed on the +exhortations by the congregation. Some of the Kaffirs and Fingoes were +well-dressed, in homely costume, indeed, but clean and neat, consisting +of moleskin or fustian jackets and trousers, felt hats, like those worn +by English waggoners, and strong shoes. Others reclined on the floor, +with their blankets, or karosses, draped round them, and ornamented with +strings of beads, whose gaudy colours contrasted finely with their dark +skins. Another day, I witnessed the baptism of fourteen Fingoes. Both +men and women seemed to feel the solemnity of their position, the women +particularly evinced extraordinary emotion. Some were unable to +restrain their sobs, and one aged being affected me much by the manner +in which she sought to subdue her feelings, wiping the tears quietly +away as they followed each other down her dark cheek. All were decently +clothed, and particularly intelligent in their appearance. + +At the close of the service, the missionary permits any of his +congregation to ask questions concerning such sacred matters as they may +at first find difficult to understand. Some of their arguments evince a +singular disposition to subtle reasoning, and prove how arduous a task +is undertaken by those who endeavour to convert these poor savages to +Christianity. One day, after the missionary had dwelt on the misery +arising from sin, and had expatiated on the natural proneness of man to +vice rather than virtue, and on the dreadful consequences of +disobedience manifested in the fall of our first parents, and its +terrible results, ameliorated only by the hope of heaven through the +merits of a Redeemer, in whose power to save and mediate we alone can +trust, a Kaffir, who had given his whole attention to the discussion, +begged leave to ask a few questions. It was granted, and he began. + +"You tell us," said he, in the measured and gentle tone peculiar to his +language, "that all the world is wicked--dreadfully wicked; that man is +condemned to punishment, except he be redeemed by faith. You tell us +that every one is wrong, and God alone is right?" + +"Certainly," replied the missionary; "except we believe in and obey God, +we cannot be saved." + +"And you are sure," continued the Kaffir, "that man is very wicked, and +God alone is good?" + +"Quite sure," replied the missionary. + +"And there have been thousands--millions of men, and many, many +countries far away and beyond the waters," pursued the savage, "full of +sin, who cannot be saved, except they love and fear God, and believe in +him and in all these mysteries which none of us can understand, and +which you yourself even cannot explain?" + +"It is but too true," said the missionary. + +"And there is but one God?" pursued the Kaffir, in a tone of inquiry. + +"But one God," was the solemn answer. + +The savage pondered some minutes, and then observed, "What proof have +you that God is right, and men are wrong? Has no one ever doubted that +One being wise and the other being weak and sinful? How strange that +the word of your One God should be allowed to weigh against the will and +inclination of the whole world! Your cause is hardly a good one, when +hundreds and millions are opposed in deed and opinion to one! I must +consider your arguments on Christianity well before I decide on adopting +your creed." + +Another remark of one of these natural logicians equally illustrates +their determination not to be persuaded to anything without having their +own reasons for it. Wherever their inclination leads them, they possess +such an art of defending themselves as would be an invaluable addition +to the talents of a special pleader in a criminal court. One Kaffir who +had become a Christian, at least apparently so (for I doubt the decided +conversion of any, except the Chief, Kama)--was striving, for reasons of +his own, to bring others to the creed he had adopted. After much +argument, one, who grew tired of it, closed it by observing that "since +such punishments were in reserve for those who neglected the laws of the +Master whom they engaged to serve, he preferred enjoying the world as +much as he could while living, rather than becoming a subject of one +whose laws were irksome, and whose punishments were so terrible." + +This art of reasoning, however it may lead them into discussions as full +of sophistry as ingenuity, may be the means of converting some of them +to Christianity. It makes them keen listeners; and, since the Word of +God is so plain, that "he who runs may read," may not these poor people +be persuaded to that which must teach them that wisdom and power, and +mercy, and unbounded benevolence, are the attributes of that God whom +they are invited to worship? Sometimes, I hope this, and then some +proof of Kaffir treachery makes me wonder how I can ever form such a +hope. + +I should say, with Fingoes, Kaffirs and Hottentots, persuasion and quiet +reasoning would work the will of God before all the threats relative to +that dreadful world where sinners are described as in everlasting +torment. This is hardly the place for such discussion, but I cannot +help saying, that I think the creed of many who profess to explain the +Word of God, a fearful one: instead of holding up our beneficent Creator +as a Being worthy to be served for love, they dwell too much on the +punishment of sin, rather than on the reward of virtue. It is by some +deemed wiser to frighten the ignorant into serving God, than to lead +them by gentle means to love Him, to honour and to put their whole trust +in Him. What a mistake! I have often pondered on the difference (if I +may so express it) of the two sources of religion--the one proceeding +from fear of our great spiritual enemy (and which, after all, is a +fallacious kind of worship)--and the other from love of the Almighty! + +Tell the savage that God is infinitely wise and powerful, and good to +those who serve Him, and he will at least listen further; by which means +much may be done. Talk to him of a dreadful place of punishment, he +will turn his back on you, and refuse to enlist under the banners of +those whose chief arguments are based on such threats. Begin with +reference to God as merciful, as well as just, and the savage will soon +acknowledge the necessity of punishment for evil deeds in an equal +degree with rewards for virtue. It is right he should know that eternal +suffering awaits the sinner, but, before he is thus threatened, teach +him "the beauty of holiness," and "praise God as one worthy to be +praised." + +On my journey into Kaffirland, our road one day lay through a pleasant +country, where the grass was green, and the mimosas bright with their +golden clusters of flowers. At the spot where we outspanned, a waggon, +driven by Fingoes, had halted: it was drawn close up to a bush, and the +party in charge of it, consisting of two men, three women, and their +children, were seated in the shade. To our surprise, we observed that +one man was reading aloud to the party; and, anxious to hear the +language, which is peculiarly soft and liquid, we walked up to the +group. Our surprise was increased when we found that the book occupying +their attention was the Bible, translated into the Kaffir language, +which, by the way, scarcely differs from the Fingo. The sight of this +dusky group so employed, had a strange effect, and the flowing ease and +beauty of the language in which the Word of God was explained to the +attentive listeners, increased the interest we felt in the scene. None +of them could speak English; but the reader, pointing to the book, +uttered the single word "Good" impressively. + +It is singular enough that Barrow and other travellers do not allude to +the race of Fingoes; this oversight is probably owing to their having +been, till of late years, the slaves of the Kaffirs. [See Note 2.] The +following account of them I have gathered from a work compiled by the +editor of the "Graham's Town Journal," and published in 1836:-- + +"It appears that the term `Fingo' is not their national appellation, but +a reproachful epithet, denoting extreme poverty or misery,--person +having no claim to justice, mercy, or even life. They are the remnants +of eight powerful nations, which have been destroyed or driven out of +their country by the destructive wars carried on amongst the natives of +the interior. Five of these nations were destroyed by the cruel +Matawana, and the rest by the notorious Zoola Chief, Chaka, or some of +the tribes tributary to them. The names of these nations were: + +"1. The Amalubi,--signifying a people who tear and pull off. + +"2. The Amazizi,--a people who bring. About twenty years ago, they, as +a powerful nation, inhabited the country on the north-east of Natal. + +"3. The Amabile,--people of mercy. + +"4. The Amazabizembi,--axe-vendors. + +"5. The Abasaekunene,--right-hand people. + +"6. The Amantozakive,--people whose things are their own. + +"7. The Amarelidwani,--no definite meaning. + +"8. Abashwawo,--revilers or reproachers. + +"These nations being broken up and dispersed, many of those who escaped +flew westward, and thus came into collision with the Amakosa Kaffirs, +but principally with the tribes of the late Hintza, whose death is +graphically described by Sir James Alexander, 14th regiment, in his +account of the last Kaffir irruption in 1834 and 1835. They became +slaves, herds, `hewers of wood, and drawers of water,' as well as +tillers of the ground. They were oppressed in every way; when by +industry they had gathered together a few head of cattle, they were +either forcibly taken away from them, or, being accused of witchcraft, +their property was confiscated. In short, their lives and property were +held on the same precarious tenure, the mere will of their capricious, +cruel and avaricious taskmasters. + +"This state of bondage at last became utterly intolerable, and its +victims only looked for an opportunity to throw off the yoke. Their +attention had been anxiously turned towards the colony, and +communications had been made to the frontier authorities long before the +irruption in 1834, urgently praying for an asylum within our boundary: +but this application was kept a profound secret, from a conviction that +were their intentions known to the Kaffirs, the indiscriminate massacre +of the poor Fingoes would be the consequence." + +The war, of which many histories are given, delivered these poor +creatures from their bondage, and they are now a happy people, with +their own independent possessions of cattle, Sir James Alexander +supplies an interesting description of their deliverance from captivity. + +They are a fine muscular race, bearing a great resemblance to the +Kaffirs, yet easily distinguishable from them: unlike the Kaffirs, they +are a cheerful race. The moonlight nights seem their seasons of +festivity; and their wild chant, now rising loud and shrill, from the +huts opposite Fort Peddie, and now felling into a low muttered chorus, +now led by a single voice, and again sinking into indistinctness, has a +singular effect on civilised ears, not the less extraordinary from its +being sometimes united with a running accompaniment of wolves howling +about the cattle-kraals, and dogs yelling after them. At such times, +the wild chorus generally ceases, lights are carried to and fro in the +kraal [see Note 3], or hamlet, and there is a sound of a hunt, such as +one might fancy would be ably illustrated by Retzsch's wondrous pencil. +After successive shouts from the Fingoes, and yells from the dogs, the +yelp of the wolf is heard further off, and changes to a smothered whine, +till it ceases altogether. The dogs continue barking for some time, the +torches are extinguished, and, as all again becomes quiet, the strange +chant recommences. Sometimes the noise of clapping of hands, +resembling, from the distance at which it is heard, the sound of the +tom-tom, or rude drum, may be distinguished, marking time probably to +the steps of the untiring dancers, for their revelry generally lasts +till morning's dawn. + +Neither Fingoes nor Kaffirs seem to take much note of time: they sing +and dance when they are merry, sleep when fatigued, eat and drink when +hungry and thirsty. Days, weeks, months, and years pass by unnoticed, +and uncounted. If in want of comforts which must be purchased, they +work to earn money; if well provided, they will do nothing. In cold +weather, they will not leave their huts even to milk their cows. + +One of the most interesting anecdotes I have heard, was told me one day, +relative to a Fingo man, tallying well with the scene I have alluded to +of the group reading the Bible under the shade of the mimosa-bush. A +poor Fingo had made several applications, from Graham's Town, to a +missionary nearly fifty miles off, for a Bible; but for some time there +had not been a sufficient number printed to meet the devout wishes of +those "who would become Christians." Two years elapsed from the time +this man first asked for the Bible. At last one day, he suddenly +appeared at the station, and asked the missionary for one. The latter +replied, that he was afraid he yet had none to spare; "but," said he to +the Fingo, "if you will do what business you may have on hand in the +neighbourhood, and come to me before you leave it, I will endeavour to +procure you one, if such a thing is to be had;" but the poor traveller +surprised the missionary when he said he had no business to transact +there, save the one thing which had brought him so far. He had come all +the way from Graham's Town, on foot, for the Bible; he would wait till +one was found, or even printed for him. So the missionary was +constrained to seek for one immediately, which he succeeded in +obtaining; and the Fingo then offering 2 shillings 6 pence (the price of +the book being 1 shilling 6 pence), the missionary offered the 1 +shilling in change, but the traveller waited not. With the precious +book which had cost him so much toil to obtain, in one hand, and his +knob-kiurrie (war-club) in the other, away he trudged, light of foot, +and certainly light of heart. He evidently considered his prize as more +to be "desired than gold, yea than fine gold." Such instances of +sincere conversion are very rare. + +There seems little doubt that Barrow's idea of the origin of the Kaffir +tribes in this country is a just one. He imagines them to be the +descendants of those Arabs known to us by the name Bedouin. "These +people" says he, "penetrated into every part of Africa. Colonies of +them have found their way into the islands of Southern Africa, where +more difficulties would occur than in an overland journey to the Cape of +Good Hope. By skirting the Red Sea, and turning to the southward, the +great desert of sand, which divides Africa into two parts, would be +avoided, and the passage lies over a country inhabited, as far as is +known, in every part." The circumstance of their having short hair, +would seem to militate against their Arabic origin; but their +intermixture with the Hottentots and other nations along the coast may +have produced this. Barrow adds, "Their skill in music is not above the +level of the Hottentots." + +The latter have a most perfect ear for music, and cannot resist dancing +and chorussing to a tune that pleases them. I have never heard the +Kaffirs evince any disposition to sing, unless I except the monotonous +drawl which the women utter for the men to dance to. Of the Fingo +evensong, I shall have occasion to speak by and by. + +It is already well-known that the Bosjemen and Hottentots are the +aborigines of the whole of this part of South Africa. As one great +proof of this, we find the names of the rivers are in the Hottentot +language, between which and the Kaffir there is no affinity. It may, by +the bye, be observed, that the Bosjeman and Kaffir languages have one +thing in common,--a singular click, varying in its sound according to +the letter pronounced: thus, C, T, R, and Q, appear to be the letters +uttered in clicks--T is uttered between the teeth, like _teh_; the R +also resembles T in its pronunciation; Q is produced by a click nearer +the front of the teeth than is requisite for the pronunciation of the C, +which in its turn resembles the noise made in imitation of drawing a +cork, and when two Kaffirs, Fingoes, or Bushmen, are conversing together +on any subject that excites them to unusual rapidity of speech or +gesticulation, the effect is extraordinary. + +I desire not to lengthen my work with long quotations from other +writers, though to do so with that experience which a residence in the +country must give, would be to compile a useful and entertaining +chapter; but by here and there comparing what I see of these wild people +with what I have read, much may be gathered together that will throw a +light on matters connected with them in their present domestic state, if +such a term may be applied to a who are not yet tamed, and who, I doubt, +never will be so. Like the lion, the tiger, the panther, and all the +roaming tenants of the bush, the mountain, or the kloof, the Kaffir has +become identified with the country to which he now belongs; and, though +here and there one or two may be brought to understand the meaning of +good principle, as a body, the Kaffirs will fulfil the destiny of their +great progenitor, Ishmael, of whom it has been decreed by God, that his +descendants shall "have their hands against every man, and every man's +hand against them." Even though a man be brought up among Christians +from his youth, and accustomed to his dress by day, and his bed by +night, in manhood he will most joyfully return to his kraal, his kaross, +and his mat. The daughter of Cobus Congo (Konky) is a striking instance +of this. Educated in the house of an excellent missionary, taught the +value of principle, Konky is now married to a chief who has many other +wives; she wears the kaross, and rides an unsaddled horse, after the +same fashion as her husband and his cortege. If, however, the +missionaries fail generally in the one grand object of converting the +Kaffirs and Fingoes to Christianity, many among them may be brought to +some degree of civilisation. Already those who have been prevailed upon +to learn to read (the difficulty lies in getting them to learn at all,) +are diligent, and thirst for knowledge; as they progress in this, their +communion with Europeans becomes more intimate, gradually they may +acquire a wish to be clothed, and this may be of consequence to our +manufactories. Already the English blanket, greased till it becomes the +colour of ochre, begins to supersede the skin kaross; and the common +brown coverlid is another favourite drapery of the Kaffir. A printing +press is established at D'Urban [a missionary station near Fort Peddie]; +and, besides the translation of the Bible, a periodical is published +monthly, containing articles suited to the taste, comprehension, and +habits of the native. + +I have imagined that if some profitable employment were set on foot +among them it would have a beneficial effect; but I understand that +wool-combing was tried, which would have added to their cattle flocks of +sheep, besides promoting habits of industry; but this failed,--their +idleness is incorrigible. The principal articles of our manufacture +coveted by them are fire-arms. There was before the late war some +ill-devised and worse-executed law for the prevention of the sale of +these, but it was of small effect. Even assegais made in England have +been sent out here, but the Kaffirs object to our manufacture of iron, +as being too malleable, preferring that prepared at their own primitive +forges. I have heard it remarked that the bellows they use in forging +are proof of their having sprung from a race more skilled in the arts of +civilisation than themselves. Two pieces of hide are sown together in +the form of a pointed bag; the wide part at top is stretched open by two +sticks; in the point at the bottom, also open, is inserted a bullock's +horn, filed at the point, through which passes the air, which is +admitted by opening and shutting the bellows at the wide end. + +To enter upon a minute description of Kaffir habits, customs, +ceremonials, and superstitions, would be to exceed my limits. I prefer +confining myself to the results of my personal observations, which, +however, from my long residence in Kaffirland, will embrace many points +left unnoticed by writers who have merely travelled through the country. + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + +Note 1. Even in their hunting expeditions, the Kaffirs exhibit a +peculiarity which goes far to prove that the sight of blood renders them +unnaturally ferocious. At the death of a jackal, a buck, or any large +game which, they have run down, each hunter presses on to give a last +stab at the victim, even after death. I observed this also among the +Fingoes, in their war-dance, as afterwards described. Captain Harris +alludes to it in his "Sporting Expedition in Africa," when he so +graphically describes the death of a young eland. "The savages came +up," he says, "and in spite of my remonstrances, proceeded with +cold-blooded ferocity to stab the unfortunate animal, stirring up the +blood, and shouting with barbarous exultation as it issued from each +newly-inflicted wound." + +Note 2. The term "Kaffir," is by no means recognised by the Kaffirs +themselves. It was bestowed on them by the Portuguese. The word is +from the Arabic, and signifies "Infidel." + +Note 3. The word "kraal" applies either to the group of huts forming a +village, to a single hut, or the fold for the cattle. + + + +PART ONE, CHAPTER FIVE. + +THE KAFFIRS--THEIR SUPERSTITIONS. + +The Kaffirs have no idea of a future state, and many can hardly be +taught to believe that there are countries beyond their own. Some have +a crude idea that Europeans, particularly the English, live on the +waters in ships. Even to their own chiefs, and people who have been in +England, they will give no credence. A Kaffir believes only what he +sees. Latterly, they have become more inquisitive, and ask questions, +wondering "if the Queen of England is like other human beings!" + +They are so exceedingly superstitious that the more cunning members of +their community take advantage of a weakness common to all, but +possessed in a greater degree by some than by others. The system of +"eating-up," as it is called, arises from the prevalence of +superstition, and may be thus described. A man, who, from his knowledge +of herbs and practice among the sick, is considered and denominated a +doctor, entertains, perhaps, a spite against some individual. He hears +that another is sick,--if a chief so much the better for his purpose,-- +or perhaps he may employ some nefarious means to injure the health of a +man by whom he intends to be employed. The chief, then, falls sick, +naturally, or by foul means; meanwhile, the "doctor" has not been idle, +he has carried to some hiding-place some herbs, skin, or something of +this kind, and has buried it in a nook. Soon after comes the summons +for him. He goes. The patient is suffering, and the mode of +questioning the sick man is singular enough. With a grave face and +solemn air, the doctor begins his inquiries,--"Does his head ache?" +"No." "Has he a sore throat?" "No." "Pain in the shoulders?" "No." +"In the chest?" "No." "In the arms?" "No." And so on, till the part +affected is touched. Then the pain is acknowledged, and there is a long +pause. No one ventures to speak, save the doctor and the patient. At +last, the former asks the invalid who has bewitched him? All disease is +looked upon as the effect of magic, from their total ignorance of a +Providence. The patient replies, he does not know. It is not +improbable, indeed, he may be leagued with the doctor; or, if he be a +chief, that he may have resolved on possessing himself of some poor +dependent's cattle, and therefore bribes the doctor to assist him in his +scheme. All the inhabitants of the kraal are summoned. They come. +Perhaps, they expect a feast, unless they are aware of the chief's +illness. The doctor moves through the assembly, examines the +countenances of this man and that, retires, deliberates, returns, and at +last points out the unfortunate man who has already been devoted to +ruin. The victim protests his innocence. It is of no avail. The wise +doctor can prove where he has hidden the charm which works the mischief. +He goes to the nook where he himself has concealed it. The people +follow. Wonderful;--he discovers it--brings it to the chief, who orders +the victim to pay so many head of cattle, the tax imposed being always +so heavy as to injure the unfortunate creature beyond redemption. +Frequently, he is condemned to death, and frightful cruelties are to +this day practised on men and women accused of witchcraft, who, with +their heads smeared with honey, are bound down on an ant-hill, and at +their feet a blazing fire. Unable to move, they lie for days enduring +this torture, till they are released or die. In the former case even, +they are crippled for life. A case came to my knowledge, in which a +rain-maker, a character similar to that of the doctor, but whose +business is curing the weather, caused a poor creature to be put to +death; and, strange to say, on the following day, though we had not had +a drop of rain for nearly four months, and were very short of water, the +torrents which fell deluged the country, and filled the tanks and rivers +beyond what had been seen for a considerable time. + +I confess that, as I have ridden through the kraals, and seen the groups +of Fingoes, or Kaffirs, sitting about the fires, surrounded by their +children, cooking their corn, chattering and laughing, while at a little +distance young boys basked in the sun, playing with pebbles at some +game, or, lying on the grass, idle, and happy in their idleness, without +a thought beyond the present, any more than the herd that cropped the +green herbage round them, I have said to my companions, "How can we +expect these happy wretches to be other than savages?" The earth yields +them food, and their cattle, milk and clothing. Trees provide them wood +for the frame-work of their huts, and their fires, and the clay on which +they sit is shaped into utensils for their use. Wise in their own +conceit, they must be but too happy and independent to change their +condition of their own free will. They have no idea of the sin of a +theft, or a lie, being equal to the folly which permits it to be found +out. + +I shall have occasion by and by to describe a council at which I was +present, wherein Umhala, a Kaffir chief, was summoned by the +Lieutenant-Governor, to show cause why he had threatened to "eat up" +Gasella, another chief, his step-brother. The secret of the threat was +said to lie in Gasella's friendly feeling towards the English, and his +consequent determination to prevent the inroads of the Kaffirs upon the +colony, for the purpose of abstracting cattle; but I strongly doubt the +existence of such a feeling in any Kaffir whatever. The constant thefts +of cattle give rise to "Commandos" to recover them, and after a +successful one, a military party in charge of cattle, conducting them +into Graham's Town, is not an unamusing sight. How would some +aristocratic papas and mammas be horrified at seeing their gentlemanlike +sons heading the party, and playing the part of principal herdsman on +the redoubtable occasion! Such expeditions require the utmost caution, +and are frequently attended with danger; and, though it would be no +addition to the soldier's wreath of glory to be assegaied, or shot, in +the execution of such a duty as that of driving cattle, he would be not +the less killed "for a' that,"--dead,--lost to his sorrowing friends and +his unsympathising country for ever. + +The restless desire for plunder among the Kaffirs speaks much in favour +of their Arab origin. So do their tent-shaped huts, their riches +consisting in herds of cattle, and their wandering habits. The Kaffirs' +principal instrument of war is the spear, or assegai. Such, a weapon is +now in especial use among the Arabs. The poising and hurling this spear +constitute a trial of dexterity which they love to exhibit; and there +could not be a finer subject for a painter than a tall Kaffir, +majestically formed, with one foot firmly planted before him, his head +thrown back, his kaross draped pound him, leaving the right arm and foot +free and unfettered, in the act of poising an assegai before he sends it +flashing through the sunlit air. Their wearing clothes will be an +excellent thing for our manufactories, but will help to enervate the +savage. + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + +I cannot avoid reverting to the fact that writers have never, in their +descriptions, separated the Fingoes from the Kafirs. There is no doubt +that they once formed one vast nation, but are now not only distinct but +opposed to each other. In advertisements relative to servants, and +setting forth Government ordinances, mention is made of all the tribes +of Kaffirs to the utmost limits of the known territory, also of +Hottentots and Bushmen, but no reference is made to Fingoes, who differ +from the Kaffirs in appearance as well as in habits. + +Mr Shepstone, the Government agent, has kindly written down, from what +he has gathered from them in conversation, the idea of the Kaffirs +respecting their own origin. He says-- + +"The traditions among the native tribes on the south-eastern coast of +Africa, which essay to describe the origin of the human race, are as +various as the tribes themselves. Perhaps, the one most curious in its +detail is the following:--It assumes the pre-existence of the sun, moon, +and stars, etc, as also of our earth, with everything in it as it at +present exists, with the exception of men and cattle. It then describes +two chasms in the earth, from one of which emerged three descriptions of +men; first, the Kaffir; second, the Bushman (the original Hottentot); +and third, the white man. These are the fathers of mankind. Out of the +other chasm came cattle; the greatest part of these were given to the +Kaffir, and he was told they should be `his life and his children's.' +The Bushman `was given the honey-bird,' [Note 1], and was desired to +follow it, as its fortunes should be `_his_ life and _his_ children's.' +The white man was shown the sea, and was told to `try everything.' +Another account represents the white man as having been incited by +curiosity to explore the chasm whence had issued the cattle; that, after +he had entered it, the mouth closed up; but that by extraordinary +exertions he cleared his way out, which explains the cause of his +descendants possessing such persevering ingenuity. Their different +callings being thus defined, they were permitted to increase and +multiply, and live in love with one another. This injunction was +followed for a considerable period, when one morning, when the sun shone +as brightly as usual in the heavens, one of their number was discovered +motionless! speechless! cold! The utmost dismay was the consequence; +all assembled to endeavour to ascertain the cause, and remedy what was +felt to be a serious evil; some ran with water, to sprinkle the lifeless +form; others hastened with broad-spreading leaves, to fan the rigid +countenance, and every effort was made to restore their companion so far +as to be able to tell the cause of such fearful apathy. All was in +vain--not a ray of hope was left--despair took possession of their +breasts. The form of their friend and fellow creature began to +moulder.--Nothing remained at last but the more substantial parts of the +person once familiar to them. Then a voice came and named it `Death!' +It is curious to observe," remarks Mr Shepstone, "in all this the +recognition of a superintending and benevolent power, independent of +man; whereas, in every other tradition, the fortunes of the human race +are represented as under the control of the good and evil spirits of +their forefathers, whichever may, circumstances, predominate at the +time."--Fort Peddie, May 19th, 1843. + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + +Note 1. A small bird, which, attracting the notice of travellers by its +cry, guides them to the wild bees' nests in trees, or clefts of rocks. + + + +PART TWO, CHAPTER ONE. + +FIVE YEARS IN KAFFIRLAND--THE VOYAGE OUT. + +There was nothing very pleasant in the prospect before me of leaving +England just as summer was opening her gates, and exhibiting her +flower-strewn paths and fragrant hedgerows. My health was not good, and +to my mode of travelling I looked forward as anything but agreeable; +since a troopship can never be considered as affording even convenient +accomodation for a lady, and the miseries of a sea-life must of +necessity be enhanced by being shared with a crowd of fellow-sufferers +of various classes. + +Nevertheless, on reaching Ireland, (land of green spots and generous +hearts!) my spirits rallied; my soul could not but respond to kindly +sympathies and disinterested hospitality, and by the time the troopship, +"Abercrombie Robinson," arrived in Kingstown Harbour, whence we were to +embark (in all upwards of 700 souls) for the Cape of Good Hope, I had +shaken off my unavailing regrets in a great degree, and was prepared to +meet my destiny with a fortitude worthy of a soldier's wife,--a +fortitude, indeed, earned by experience in my encounter with "perils by +sea and land." + + But people now don't care for rhymes romantic, + And I must cease to think of former years. + This, my third trip across the vast Atlantic, + Hath taught me to subdue a world of tears; + For worse than idle, on a joyous track, + Were the vain sorrow earned by looking back!--_My Journal_. + +The inhabitants of Dublin, "in the merry month of May," 1842, emigrated +by instalments to visit the "Abercrombie Robinson,"--a ship of 1400 tons +being rarely seen in Kingstown Harbour. A few short months after, she +lay a wreck upon the sands of Africa, a true type of the littleness of +man's works, and of the power of Him who "blew with his winds and they +were scattered." + +We embarked, and for a day or two enjoyed the balmy breezes of the +summer sea as we lay in harbour. His Excellency the Lord Lieutenant +came on board in the barge, to see the ship, the barge being steered by +the agent, Lieutenant J.R. Black, R.N. The guns saluted, the yards were +manned, bands were playing, colours flying, soldiers cheering, etc, etc. +The Lord Lieutenant congratulated us on our fine prospects, and drank +our healths, wishing us prosperity (and I am sure he was in earnest); +and his Aides-de-Camp looked as civil as they could, considering they +were very much bored: and, when we had all played at company and +propriety for a given time, his Excellency left the ship, steered as +before, and there was a repetition of guns firing, soldiers shouting, +etc; and the people on the shore, no doubt, thought it very fine indeed. + +We were better off with regard to accommodation than we had been as +inmates of a transport on a former occasion, when we went to Saint +Helena. Our ship was strong, apparently, as a castle, and our +accommodation very superior. With the first favourable breeze we spread +our canvass, and sailed out of Kingstown Harbour, hundreds cheering us +from the shores of green Ireland, while our men responded to their +shouts. + +The voyage was dull enough, only varied by a due quantity of parades, +roll-calls, mustering of watches, with a running accompaniment of +bugles, bagpipes, and drums. Our party, in general, was an agreeable +one; the average quantity of ill-humour being small in proportion to our +number, and therefore falling harmlessly enough on those who were +willing to make the best of every thing. We paid by the way a visit to +Madeira. + +The view of this beautiful island (or rather of Funchal, the principal +town) in some magazine, is the best representation of it I have seen. +The town is prettily situated, but deplorably spoiled by the narrowness +of its streets. [Note 1.] I was, unfortunately, too much indisposed,-- +suffering as I was from the effects of a species of scarlet fever,--to +visit the interior of the island; but even the outskirts of the town +were most refreshing. There was a sound of running waters, a waving of +green boughs, scenting the air with their fragrance, and making me +imagine myself, in my weak state, fanned by the kindly wings of unseen +angels. The last fortnight on shipboard had been passed in great +discomfort: heavy sickness at all times is a severe tax on our patience, +but at sea, in a narrow cabin, where one's weak voice is often drowned +by the creaking of masts, the dashing of the waves, and the hoarse calls +of the seamen, it is beyond all conception to those who have not +similarly suffered. My little tour in my tiny palanquin at Madeira was, +therefore, most delicious. First I lingered in the square, under the +trees, looking at the 11th regiment of Portuguese troops on parade. +Well-dressed, well drilled, well appointed, and withal well looking, +they had every appearance of being an efficient body of men. Then their +harmonious band (no one instrument being heard distinctly above another) +exceeded in sweetness any regimental band I ever heard in our service. +The big drum, instead of being struck with violence, merely swelled in +accompaniment; and, when the fifes took up the strain, the brazen +instruments lowered their tone in perfect unison with the powers of the +lesser ones. This over, I was carried onwards through alleys green with +the foliage of the graceful vine; the distant hills made me long for +refreshing landscapes and "spicy gales," but these were denied me, and +my bearers carried me into a garden adjoining a house which we +understood belonged to the English Consul, but which we found was +tenanted by Lady Harriet D--, who was residing at Madeira for the +benefit of her children's health. On learning this, as we were about to +retire, a man-servant followed, begging us, in his lady's name, to +proceed. We did so, and under a group of trees we discovered Lady +Harriet, surrounded by books and work, and apparently intent on the +instruction of two sable pupils. The sound of her voice as she rose to +meet me, bespoke her pity for my pale looks and exhausted frame, and the +refreshment we accepted at her ladyship's hospitable hands enabled me to +endure the fatigue of returning to the town better than I should +otherwise have done. + +The gun from the "Abercrombie" announced her being under weigh, and we +were obliged to depart in haste, the heavy surf and constant swell of +the sea at Madeira rendering the passage from the shore to the ship +always tedious and more or less difficult. + +Almost every one has heard of Clementina, the beautiful nun, at the +Convent at Madeira. Her name has been so often before the public that +there can be no possible harm in relating a singular incident of which +she was the heroine, and which occurred while we were there. A large +party (from the English frigate lying like ourselves at anchor) landed +and paid a visit to the convent. Among the group assembled in front of +the grafting, behind which the nuns appear to receive visitors, was a +Mr H. As Clementina advanced she caught sight of this gentleman, and +had no sooner done so than with a sudden scream she fainted. Every one +was amazed, Mr H as much so as any. On recovering her senses, the fair +nun inquired if the gentleman who had caused her emotion bore the name +of H? On being answered in the affirmative, she almost relapsed into a +state of insensibility; but on recovering herself, she begged further to +know if he was the Mr H with whom she had formerly eloped from the +convent? It was explained that the Mr H she now saw was the cousin of +her lover, to whom he bore an extraordinary resemblance. On learning +this, she requested him to be the bearer of a letter from her to his +cousin, which she afterwards forwarded to him, and then the curtain +dropping between the nuns and the visitors closed this singular and +romantic interview. + +Again we set sail, and the same monotonous routine continued with little +variation. Occasionally, we fell in with a passing ship looking like a +thing of life upon the solitary world of waters, which brought us the +consolation of being able to write homewards. Homeward letters! Ah! +what eager hearts at home were wishing for those letters! How much of +affection, and sorrow, and anxiety, and prayerful love was in them I +thought, as the bag, ere the boat departed for the "Homeward bound" lay +at my feet upon the senseless deck! It is the habit of tracing the +common things of life back to their sources, be they sad or sweet, which +has sometimes given me pleasure, oftener pain. There moved off the +gallant ship, there rang the cheers of our soldiers, there sounded the +reckless voices of the young, the gay, the heartless, and the +high-spirited, and while they perhaps were little thinking of the +parents, the friends, the sisters, to whom they had sent home letters, +my eyes were filling as: + + "Eager memories rushed upon the heart + And burst oblivion's cloud." + +On the 22nd of August there was a cry of "land!" and, on the following +morning, the vast mountains forming the boundary of part of the +south-western coast of Africa, lay stretched before us. Then Table +Mountain and its smaller companions reared their cloud-capped crests; +and the white villas at Green Point tantalised us with their proximity, +from which, owing to the wind, we were obliged to bear away constantly. +For two days we hovered in the offing, but on the evening of the 25th, +we hailed the sound of our anchor-chains. It was a most lovely night, +the unclouded moon illuminating the white houses in Cape Town, and the +lofty mountains standing out in strong relief against the clear sky; +while our bugles, drums, and fifes, made merry music on the poop of our +gallant ship. How we lingered about, unwilling to retire to rest, so +anxious were we for the morning! It came at last, and the commanding +officer went ashore to report in due form our arrival to the Governor. +On his return in a few hours, we learned that all of us, except the +Colonel and the Major, were to proceed, by way of Algoa Bay, to the +frontier. The flank companies and the band were to be brought from +thence to Cape Town, and the three companies expected from Saint Helena +were to be detained there on their arrival. Many of our party, +especially the gentlemen, rejoiced at this; liking the prospect of an +active and sporting life infinitely better than that which would be +merely varied by lounging about Cape Town, attempting races, or +philandering at the balls. We were to remain in harbour about five days +for water and provisions, (our stock being quite exhausted) then to +proceed on our voyage. + +On Saturday morning, the 27th of August, all the officers not for duty +obtained permission to go on shore; the command of the troops on board +devolving on Captain Gordon, 91st regiment. All landed but six; my +husband was one of those to remain, consequently I did not accept the +kind invitation of a friend to accompany him with my little girl to his +house near Cape Town. Afterwards, in the hour of danger, and in the +time of extreme terror, I had a strange undefinable satisfaction in +having remained, though the sight of my child made me wish I had sent +her on shore in the morning. Towards evening, the wind increased +considerably; but, though there was a heavy sea and every prospect of a +gale, our captain depended on his anchors. The Agent, Lieutenant Black, +R.N., had gone on shore on duty at four o'clock in the evening, and +being invited to dine with the Governor at seven o'clock, was in +consequence prevented, by the impossibility of boats getting off, from +returning on board, The whole responsibility, therefore, devolved on the +Master, Mr John Young. The wind and sea rising caused at first but +little alarm; at twelve o'clock, however, the ship shivered; apparently +from being struck by a heavy sea. She trembled in every joint, and the +same sensation being almost immediately after felt again, it was evident +the vessel touched the bottom and with some violence. I rose from my +bed, and dressing my child and myself, we proceeded with my husband to +the cuddy, where some of the officers were assembled round the stove, +the night being bitterly cold. The captain, still depending on the +strength of his anchor-chains, saw no great cause of alarm, and having +put my child to sleep on a chair, which Captain Gordon kindly prepared +for her, I retired again to my berth, and being quite worn out, soon +fell fast asleep. I was awoke by my husband bidding me rise and come on +deck immediately, the anchor-chains having both snapped one after the +other. My little Isabel stood beside her father partly dressed, and +pale and silent. I have no distinct recollection of what happened for +the first half hour after this awful intelligence. I remember hearing +the water splashing about my cabin, and seeing our little lamp swinging +violently backwards and forwards. I remember being dragged in unshod +feet along the wet deck, up the steerage hatchway, while my husband +carried my child. I can remember, too, her little voice issuing from my +bed, into which she had crept to fasten on her warm boots, and begging +me not to be frightened. + +"How calm she is!" said I, to my husband. + +"Poor thing!" he whispered, "she does not know her danger." + +"Yes, I do," she answered, overhearing us; "but mamma has often told me +that God Almighty can take care of us if He pleases; and I keep saying +that to myself, and then I am not half so frightened." + +I remember the very height of the storm, when the noise of the thunder +could scarcely be distinguished from the roar of the waters, and the +torrents of rain,--when the elements in fact howled wildly and angrily +at one another,--when the lightning pouring, as one may call it, on our +decks, blazed in at the fore windows of the cuddy, being horror-stricken +at the ghastly faces assembled under the uncertain and flickering light +of a broken lamp. I can remember when the water rose up to my knees, +being carried between decks with my child, through rows of shrieking +women and silent soldiers. The conduct of our men was beyond all +praise. + +For some time, I sat on a chest with my child, near the fore-hatch, the +ship continuing to drive, every moment striking against the sand, and +our only hopes resting on the coming of the dawn, which would show us +where we were, the floods of rain preventing the lightning--vivid as it +was--from doing this distinctly. About six in the morning, the master +came down among us with some comfort, saying he hoped the ship was +making a bed for herself in the sand. In truth, she had been all night +like some great creature scratching her way through it with restless +impatience. The rudder had been carried away from the first, the stern +cabins knocked into one, and the sea bubbling up like a fountain in the +after part of the ship. We were yet uncertain of our safety, for there +were rocks not many hundred yards from us on which the "Waterloo" +convict ship had already struck; but of her anon. Meanwhile, our people +attaching a rope to a shot, fired it on shore, but in vain. All night +the guns from the fort and other vessels had been giving awful warnings +to the town, while the constant roll of musketry onboard the convict +ship, led us to imagine that the convicts were mutinous. This was, +however, discovered afterwards not to be the case; they had been +loosened from their bonds on the first alarm, and desired to make use of +the first possible means of escape. + +At length, as we neared the coast, which for some time had been crowded +with spectators, we were enabled, through God's mercy, to get a boat on +shore with a rope attached to the ship, and afterwards fastened to an +anchor driven in the sand. As the surf-boats put off, the first of +which brought Lieutenant Black, the Agent, on board, our men gave nine +hearty cheers, and in a few minutes we commenced our disembarkation; the +women and children being lowered into the boats first: I waited for the +third boat. Such a noble example had been shown by the officers to +their men, and its effects on the latter had been so important, that, in +spite of my anxiety to land, I felt unwilling to exhibit it by hurrying +from the ship to the shore, and thus creating unnecessary fears among +the poor uneducated women, whose terrors I had witnessed during the +awful hours of the night. As I was carried between decks, I had been +struck, in spite of my fears, with the scene that met my view there. +Pale women, with dishevelled hair, stretched themselves from their beds, +wringing their hands, and imploring me to comfort them. Some prayed +aloud; others, Roman Catholics, called on the Virgin and their favourite +saints to help them in their peril; and many bent in silent but eloquent +agony over their unconscious infants. One woman who had, during the +whole voyage, been considered as dying of deep decline, sat up in the +hammock which had been carefully slung for her, and with a calm voice, +which was yet distinguishable from the noise around her, imparted a +certain confidence in the power of the Almighty to all who were willing +to listen to her, or at least prepared them to view their possibly +approaching fate with more resignation. That calm, steady voice sounded +strangely amid the cries of fearful women, the hoarse voices of reckless +sailors, and the crashing of timbers; while, above all, still rolled on +the sound of musketry from the convict ship, "Waterloo," now beating +violently against the rocks, and beyond immediate help; while the +appearance of hundreds on the beach striving, some to get their boats +off, and others with daring spirit urging their horses through the surf, +formed a scene difficult to describe, even by the pen of a mere +looker-on. + +Our ship was a stout vessel, and held well together. I embarked at last +in a surf-boat with my child (my husband of course waited for his +company), and with a heart full of earnest gratitude to the Almighty, I +approached the land. Had I dreamt of the awful calamity which +afterwards befell our unfortunate neighbour, the "Waterloo," I should +not have felt the exhilaration of spirit I did as the Lascars bore me +from the boat to the shore through the surf, while Mr Dalzell, of the +27th, carried my child gallantly through it before him on his saddle. +Mr Jenkins' carriage stood waiting for us on the beach; and having had +the satisfaction of witnessing my husband's disembarkation with his men, +we started for our kind friend's charming villa, in the neighbourhood of +Cape Town. As we drove on, the sight of the "Waterloo's" inverted flag, +half-mast high, made me shudder; but, as the tide was falling (which, +by-the-by, increased the danger of her position, but of this I was +unaware), I trusted the boats might be enabled to reach her, and thus +hoped for the best. In half an hour afterwards, her mainmast fell over +her side, the ship parted in four different places, and in less than ten +minutes upwards of 200 unfortunate beings were precipitated into the +raging surf. About 70 escaped by swimming on shore; among them Mr +Leigh, of the 99th regiment; many were crushed beneath the falling +spars; ghastly faces gleamed up from the boiling waters, and with +outstretched arms implored help from the shore. Eyes, glazed with agony +and despair, burst from their sockets as the rising heads of the +sufferers got jammed between floating timbers; and mothers, with infants +clinging to their bosoms, were washed off the rafts to which they vainly +strove to cling, whilst: + + "--The bubbling cry + Of some strong swimmer in his agony," + +rose above the roar of the elements, and in a moment was smothered by +the dash of the raging waters over his helpless limbs. Only one woman +was saved: she, poor creature, had seen her husband and child swept away +before her; On being brought into the barrack square at Cape Town, where +the Governor and his Staff were assembled, the unfortunate woman flung +herself at the feet of the former, and embracing his knees exclaimed, +"Can you not help me? you have power here; can you not give me back my +husband and my child? you look a good man; can you do nothing for me? +Ah! I know you will help me. Sir, I beseech you to give me back my +husband and my child!" And this was only one of many scenes of +distress. + +Great praise was afterwards deservedly bestowed on our men for their +steady conduct and ready obedience to their officers. The detachments +of the 27th and Cape Mounted Riflemen deserved equal praise. Young men, +too, they were--the average age of the battalion being scarcely more +than twenty-one years. Many of them had never been drilled--never even +had arms in their hands;--almost all the rest were volunteers from +different regiments, and consequently little known to their superiors. +The real cause, however, may be traced in the example shown them by +their officers; and too much praise cannot be bestowed on Captain Bertie +Gordon, to whose charge they fell on the senior officer's leaving the +ship. Young in years, and comparatively so in experience, he acted with +a calmness, decision, and judgment, that give high promise of future +good. Much more could I say on this subject, but that (as is the case +with all high and generous spirits) he who most deserves praise is +always the most unwilling to have it blazed abroad. All, however, must +have esteemed themselves fortunate in falling under the command of one +so able to do his duty under such trying circumstances. + +It may not be irrelevant to say a word or two here on the subject of the +frequent wrecks in Table Bay during the winter months, viz, in May, +June, July, and August. Ships during these months are ordered to go +round to Simon's Bay, but this cannot always be done, as in our case. +There had been a great deal of sickness on board during the whole of our +voyage; three days before we made the land, three men belonging to the +91st regiment had died of typhus fever in the short space of thirty-one +hours and a half, their bodies and their bedding being committed to the +deep without one moment's unnecessary delay. Fresh provisions and +vegetables were thus most desirable, especially for the invalids. +Simon's Bay being between forty and fifty miles by sea, and twenty-three +by land, from Cape Town, it was a point of great importance to disembark +the troops if possible at the latter place. It must be remembered that +it was only on arriving in Table Bay, when the commanding officer +communicated with the Governor, that we learned we were to proceed to +the frontier. It was also necessary to take in fresh stock. +Furthermore, the wind (after we had been beating about the offing for +three days in a calm) became favourable for entering Table Bay, the +weather was remarkably fine, and the winter season at its close. + +Our vessel was one of Soames' finest ships, and for nearly a month after +the wreck lay firmly imbedded in the sand; but the pieces of the hull of +the "Waterloo" which were picked up on the beach, crumbled to dust in +the hands of those who tried their strength. I have said thus much of +ourselves, and I have said it impartially, because, in cases of +shipwreck, the captain is frequently blamed for what he cannot help--for +what, in fact, is a visitation of the Almighty. To the master of the +troopship, as well as to Lieutenant Black, R.N., we were indebted, +during the whole of the voyage, for the utmost attention and kindness; +the more so as, from the unanimity subsisting between them, they were +enabled to act together for the benefit of us all; and I think I cannot +close this part of my narrative better than by publishing a letter +written to Captain Young a few days after the wreck by Captain Bertie +Gordon. [One equally complimentary was written to our esteemed friend +Lieutenant Black.] + +"Main Barracks, Cape Town, August 31, 1842. + +"My dear Sir, + +"As commanding the reserve battalion of the 91st Regiment at the time of +the wreck of the transport `Abercrombie Robinson' in Table Bay, I feel +myself authorised to express my sense of your coolness, intrepidity, and +readiness of resource, during those anxious hours of responsibility, +when, from eleven o'clock on the night of the 27th of August, to +daylight on the morning of the 28th, the lives of seven hundred souls +depended, under God, on your firmness and seamanship. They are +qualities essential in the commander of a ship at all times, and must be +more than ever necessary when several hundred soldiers, women, and +children, crowd his decks. + +"They conspicuously distinguished your conduct throughout that night, +whose scenes were too full of danger not to have impressed every one +with the near possibility of destruction. + +"The question of life or death seemed often to hang on each minute's +duration; but, through God's mercy, your able conduct brought us safely +through a host of perils. + +"On the part of the officers, non-commissioned officers, and soldiers of +the reserve battalion 91st Regiment, and of the detachments of the 27th +Regiment and Cape Mounted Riflemen, then on board, I beg to offer our +united acknowledgments of the praise and gratitude which your exertions +so highly merited. + +"I remain, my dear Sir, + +"Very truly yours, + +"Bertie E.M. Gordon, Capt. 91st Regt. + +"The undersigned officers of the 91st Regiment, on board the +`Abercrombie' at the time of her being driven ashore on the morning of +the 29th of August, beg to subscribe their names to the above letter of +thanks. + +"J. Ward, Captain 91st Regt. + +"J.C. Cahill, Paym. Res. Batt. 91st Regt. + +"J.H.E. Stubbs, M.D., Asst.-Surg. 91st Regt. + +"J. McInroy, Ensign 91st Regt. + +"Robt. Lavers, Ensign 91st Regt." + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + +Note 1. An inhabitant of Madeira gave an excellent reason for this +apparent fault, viz, that the houses being built closely together +afforded a shade from the sun that wide streets would not have have +done. + + + +PART TWO, CHAPTER TWO. + +MARCH TO GRAHAM'S TOWN. + +After six months' residence at the Cape, at last we were suddenly +hurried on board a transport for Algoa Bay, on the afternoon of the 24th +of February, 1843; The agent, for the transport declared her quite ready +for sea, but such proved not to be the case, and we were detained in +harbour for three days, subject to many most unnecessary expenses and +annoyances, as will appear from a few extracts from the journal that I +began on shipboard. + +"February 24th,--Hurried on board, in consequence of the signal for +sailing being fired, and the agent for the owner of the ship sending us +word she was ready for sea, and would sail in the afternoon. The heat +quite overpowering, a hot wind prevailing--what a day for embarking at +half-past two p.m.! The troops have already been on board +four-and-twenty hours. Wind quite fair for getting out of harbour, with +the prospect of a north-wester, which would suit us exactly if we were +once out at sea. Much disappointed at not finding the Captain on board, +and no prospect of even getting up the anchor. Asked the agent why he +had fired the signal for sailing in the morning; he replied, `Because +the ship and the troops were quite ready for sea.' The `Malabar' has +just got under weigh, and is clearing the harbour with a fine breeze. + +"Sunday, February 26th.--Cold and wet--the ship shockingly dirty. No +prospect of the Captain. Some of the officers have got leave to go on +shore. A wretched day, a heavy sea prevailing. Many people sick, +especially on the lower decks, which are dark, crowded, and ill +ventilated. + +"A violent north-west gale all day and all night. I spent many hours of +terror in remembering our wreck in Table Bay, in the `Abercrombie +Robinson,' in August. Ships should not be detained in Harbour in Table +Bay without efficient reasons, especially troopships, containing +hundreds crowded together. + +"Monday, February 27th.--A man found dead on the lower deck, suffocated +from the effects of drunkenness. Had we sailed when we ought to have +done so, he would have had little chance of procuring liquor. The +Captain of the ship, and the officers who obtained leave to go on shore +yesterday, have come on board. Some prospect of sailing. Dead soldier +sent on shore to be buried. + +"Sailed at one o'clock. + +"March the 1st.--We observed this evening a singular streak of light in +the sky; no one able to account for it; it bore north-west from our +position, steering as we were along the coast to the eastward. + +"March 2nd.--The meteoric light greatly increased in size and +brilliancy. + +"March 4th.--Anchored in Algoa Bay, at eleven o'clock, a.m. The +meteoric light, which has puzzled us all so much, turns out to be a +comet, and increases in brilliancy every evening. Landed in the +evening, in a private boat. The troops will land to-morrow, in +surf-boats. We have reached the shore by the jetty, which reminds me of +the one at Herne Bay, only that it is on a smaller scale, but is +exceedingly creditable to the place, and a proof of its prosperity in +trade." [Note 1.] + +"March 5th.--The single inn much crowded. The regiment has landed, and +the little encampment formed on the green opposite the windows is very +picturesque. How strangely the wild, dusky-looking savages contrast +with the soldiers; the latter busy in their preparations for their +comforts, the former lounging idly in their skins and blankets, draped +not ungracefully round their dark forms!" + +On Tuesday, the 7th of March, we started from Port Elizabeth for +Graham's Town. + +The evening before we departed, I accompanied my husband into the +Commissariat Yard, to see the waggon which was to be the abode, by day, +of my little girl and myself for nearly a week. I was already all the +worse for having been condemned, with my husband and child, to a cabin +on board the vessel, certainly not more than _nine feet by five, if so +large_. On seeing the huge machine in which we were to travel, I could +not help remarking to the Commissary, who was so good as to point it out +to me, that there were but two alternatives to decide between, ere the +bugles sounded in the morning, and the tents were struck, preparatory to +the troops moving off--these being suicide, or mirth. In a state of +quiescence the thing looked "horrible, most horrible;" but the "start," +between the disposition to laugh, and the inclination to cry at the +discomfort, was enough to make any one hysterical; and the remembrance +of friends at home, who could never by any possibility be brought to +comprehend the miseries one undergoes here, was strangely blended in my +mind with the sights and sounds of outward objects; with the bellowing +of oxen, the shouts of Hottentot drivers, the screams of children and +scolding voices of their mothers in the neighbouring waggons, and the +mingled oaths and laughter of the soldiers, as they picked up stray +baskets, tin mugs, puppies, and babies, the latter animating the scene +by occasionally tumbling off the waggons. + +We left Port Elizabeth at eleven o'clock a.m. The first day of the +march was fine, yet cool; the sky remaining overcast, yet without +symptoms of rain. The first thing we approached worth notice was a +salt-pan, looking more like a frozen lake upon which snow-heaps had been +scattered, than anything else. It is not to my purpose to describe +these singular works of nature here; I mention this one, lying about +four miles from Port Elizabeth, to call the attention of travellers to +the sight; as, being rather below the road, it often escapes the +observation of those who are enclosed within that "narrow receptacle for +the living," a bullock-waggon. + +We reached the Zwart-kops, the spot appointed for our out-spanning for +the night, [unyoking the oxen and turning them out to graze] at about +five o'clock. The scene was certainly very beautiful. Imagine a vast +plain of fair green meadow-land, intersected, and in fact divided into +parterres, by tall thick bushes, which here and there grew in clumps and +copses, giving the ground the appearance of a vast park laid out with a +great deal of taste,--an amphitheatre of hills and mountains rising one +behind another, till the summits in the distance blended with the +clouds, gorgeously illuminated by the rays of the declining sun, whose +glory was soon succeeded by the milder light of the "gentle moon," +beside which the comet, in strange contrast, spread its long and fiery +tail. One by one the tents had risen "side by side in beautiful array." +Arms were now piled; the younger soldiers, tired with their first +march, lounged on the ground in clusters, till roused by the older and +more experienced men, who despatched them to gather wood and fetch +water; and more than a hundred fires soon lit up the camp. + +In a short time our own preparations for comfort, refreshment, and +repose had been made. The tent was pitched, the fire lit in the nearest +bush, and the kettle and gridiron put on. We had brought with us an +Indian kitchen [Jones's Patent Indian Kitchen], a most compact thing; +but, unfortunately, it had been packed up in a chest too securely to be +got at without much trouble; and, as we were only a party of three, we +resolved on doing without it as long as we could. For any number of +persons it is invaluable, but for two or three a gridiron, kettle, and +saucepan are, or ought to be, enough. Our servant had also put away the +bellows and the hatchet; and, though the wind sometimes served us in +lieu of the one, we were frequently obliged to borrow the other, when we +halted. Having cold fowls, tongue, bacon, bread, butter, tea, sugar, +and a bottle of milk [Note 2], and good store of wine, in our +provision-basket, we did uncommonly well, roasting our potatoes in the +ashes, comforting ourselves on the cold grass (not having thought of a +tent-mat or table), with some warm negus. A piece of string wound round +the pole of the tent, held a wax candle, but the wind rendering its +light flickering and uncertain, we stuck a bayonet in the ground, and it +made a very convenient and certainly characteristic candlestick. The +meal and its fragments having been cleared away, our beds were made in +the tent, which had been comfortably pitched (by an old soldier of the +27th, long used to the colony), with its back to the wind; we were thus +screened from that, and could not well be inconvenienced by a shower. + +Comparative quiet and much order now reigned in the camp. Every tent +became more clearly defined as the evening advanced, and the sky formed +a darker background for the moon, the stars, and the refulgent comet. +Round the fires were assembled groups of soldiers, women resting +themselves, as they called it, poor creatures, with babies on their +knees,--Hottentots playing their rude violins, and merry voices joining +in the chorus, led by neighbouring singers. Sounds of mirth issued from +the tents of others; and the steam of savoury soup gave evidence of the +proximity of the mess-tent and the talents of "little Paddy Farrell,"-- +the incomparable cook. Dinner there was always late, the officers never +sitting down to solace themselves with good cheer till their men had +been well cared for, and their different positions established for the +night. Now and then the brazen tongue of a bugle intruded its call upon +the stillness of the hour, and helped to disperse the groups gathered +round the fire for a time, till the duty to which it had summoned them +being done, they either returned to the social circle they had left, or +secured a corner in a tent "licensed to hold fifteen inside" to sleep +in. Gradually, the voices of the singers became mute; the feeble cries +of sleepy infants superseded the monotonous tones of the Hottentot +fiddles. Snoring "matches" seemed to be "got up," as it were, between +sundry waggon-drivers and their neighbours, they having their mats +spread under the waggons; the peals of laughter among the revellers +became less frequent, and at length ceased altogether. The fires grew +dim, and the moon and her companions in the sky alone lit up the scene; +tents were closed and the sound of the last bugle died away in the +hushed night air, leaving all silent, peaceful, and at rest. + +Although only fifteen miles from Port Elizabeth, I had been led to +expect that I should hear the distant cry of the jackal, and the howl of +the wolf; but, in spite of the bed being spread upon nothing but grass, +in spite of the more than "whispers of the night breeze" which would be +heard from under the flap of the tent, I never slept so soundly in my +life. + +I was up and dressed with my child, ready for the march, at half-past +five. The scene of that morning, though of a different character, +almost equalled in beauty the one we had so much admired on the +preceding evening. The regiment was drawn up on a natural parade of +smooth green turf, bounded by bush, and the background of the eastern +hills was glowing at the approach of the sun, who, as he advanced in +radiant majesty, tipped with gold the glittering arms and appointments +of the soldiers, and shed an acceptable warmth upon us as we left the +dewy grass, for the rough and stony mountain road before us. Up this +hill the regiment wound, preceding the waggons,--now presenting a +glittering cluster of arms, and now being altogether lost to the sight +in the thick bush with which the ascent was clothed. A long line of +nineteen waggons brought up the rear, and, as we proceeded, four hundred +men in advance--women, children, and baggage, wending their way slowly +and steadily after them, I could not but commune in my own mind on the +ways of that inscrutable and unquestionable Providence, by the working +of whose will, England, from her original state of ignorance, +insignificance, and barbarism, is now the chief ruling power in the +world, and sendeth her ships and her soldiers, (in defiance of what to +other countries would perhaps be insurmountable obstacles, when we +consider the dangers and difficulties arising from climates and +localities ill-suited to European habits and constitutions), "even to +the uttermost parts of the earth." + +The day (March 8) became dreadfully hot; towards noon the sun had full +sway. Not a cloud shaded the heavens; and, though the country we passed +through was rich in bush, there were no shady trees, and water was +extremely scarce. + +The men being much fatigued with the previous day's march, it was +determined to divide the next long march of thirty-two miles into two; +and such an arrangement was not only merciful but absolutely necessary, +as man by man fell by the roadside overpowered with the heat, foot-tired +and faint for want of water. About one hour before we halted on the +second day, we came suddenly upon a pool, where a large herd of sheep +and goats (the property of a neighbouring farmer) were drinking. The +men shouted aloud joyfully; and rushing precipitately to the pool, put +their lips to the element, (which, though muddy, was to them most +grateful), and drank copiously of the unwholesome draught. Several +became ill after doing so; and, instead of being refreshed by it, were +rendered less capable of proceeding than before. Fifteen stragglers +fell out of one company, and were probably only induced to crawl after +the battalion that evening by the dread of wild beasts. On reaching +Sunday River, we learned that such a fear was not without a foundation, +as five lions had, within the last few days, been seen drinking at the +river side. Most gladly did I find, on reaching the "Outspan," that a +bed could be obtained at the snug, small house of Mr Rose, the +Field-Cornet, close to the encampment: there, too, we obtained fresh +butter, a leg of mutton, and some good English ale and porter, but +rejoiced most in copious ablutions and clean bedding. My companions +laughed much at my increased admiration of an encampment by moonlight +that night, as I left it for a comfortable roof. "It certainly," said +I, "is a very pretty sighted--_at a distance_." + +We were up with the dawn next morning, and crossed the beautiful ford of +the Sunday River, at sunrise. "Who would imagine," thought I, "that +such a scene of peace and beauty should be one of the fastnesses for +wild beasts?" Green boughs met each other across the stream. Down such +a pleasant-looking river I had often glided in "merry England," singing, +by the way, with young companions, to the gay music of our guitars, +while the plash of oars kept time to the measure of our happy voices. +There, in our own happy land, no lions prowled in our neighbourhood, no +panthers could we fancy glaring on us from the bush, no venomous +reptiles awaited our feet as we stepped upon the green sod from the +boat. A South African climate is beautiful all the year round, except +when visited by terrific thunderstorms, with their usual accompaniments +of hail, rain, and lightning. Ah! that word "except;"--"except" for our +dark November days and painful frosts, England would be an +unexceptionable residence; still, even with these outward discomforts, +look at our fire-sides! + +But why go dreaming back from the brimming, shady Sunday River to the +"stately homes of England!" On, on! and let us be thankful, that so far +from home there is yet so much to be thankful for, and to enjoy. Oh! +for the blessed philosophy which teaches us to make light of every +thing! Truly, content is riches! In a moral point of view, may it not +be considered as bearing an analogy to the story of the philosopher's +stone, (always remembering the one to be theory, the other practicable), +which was supposed to possess the gift of transmuting whatever the +possessor of it touched into gold? + +On, then, through the river! The sun is up upon the hills; the troops +are refreshed, the oxen willing, the day balmy, and the road better than +I expected. How the mimosa-bushes scent the air! and here and there +some, taller than the others, fling down a pleasant shade, affording +cool resting-places for the travellers. + +At night we outspanned on the Quagga Flats, not so beautifully +picturesque as the spots we had hitherto selected, but still pretty well +wooded and watered. Here, for the first time, owing to the rain, which +began to fall in torrents, we slept in the waggon,--an arrangement I did +not at all like; its narrow and close shape give to an excitable mind +the idea of the German story of the "Iron Shroud." I was awakened in +the middle of the night, by the lowing of the cattle and the rattling of +the horse's halter, by which he was fixed to the wheel. We soon found +that the restlessness thus manifested by the poor animals arose from the +noise of neighbouring wolves, which are always more likely to approach +the dwellings of man in wet than in favourable weather. The rain poured +in torrents, the violence of which can only be understood by those who +have experienced it. Fortunately, the morning proved tolerably fine, +and we proceeded, in the usual order, through the Addo Bush, the scenery +decreasing in beauty as we advanced, but still affording a tolerable +supply of wood and water at the spots where we outspanned. I had read +and heard much of steenboks, and other noble game, but we saw nothing of +the kind, not even a monkey; nor did we even hear the laugh of the hyena +at night. Others said they had done so; but we did not. + +Among some of the most remarkable things we observed were the ant-hills, +that were scattered all over the face of the country through which we +passed. On a green plain they reminded us of hay-cocks in England, +being about that size. Their similarity in shape to the huts built by +the Fingoes, Kaffirs, and, indeed, almost all savage nations, is not the +least curious feature in their appearance. I had imagined that the ants +themselves were the only architects of these ingenious buildings, but I +was told by the Hottentot drivers that they take possession of a hole +which has been forsaken by the mole (which, indeed, they sometimes +attack and hunt out of its domicile), and thus obtain a foundation, on +which to begin the upper works of their establishment. + +In consequence of the second day's march having been divided into two, +we did not reach Sly Kraal (twelve miles from Graham's Town) till +Saturday. Ere we did reach it, however, we were overtaken by the most +terrific thunder-storm I had ever witnessed, save on the night of our +memorable wreck in Table Bay. Those who have never witnessed one can +have no idea of such storms as those to be met with in South Africa. +All the artillery of heaven seems opening at once, while floods of light +struggle for mastery with torrents of rain and hailstones. The +knowledge that such storms are often attended with danger, makes their +approach more awful. The place where we were overtaken by the one to +which I allude was a barren spot, only varied by rocky eminences here +and there, and scattered over with loose stones and pieces of rock. The +horizon was bounded by vast mountains, the tops of which were vividly +illumined by the continued blaze of the lightning. The ground soon +became so slippery that it was considered almost unsafe to proceed; men +and officers were drenched to the skin, and there, in the height of the +storm, we, poor helpless crowd, were obliged to await its progress and +abatement. The waggon conductor, Pullen, (a most amusing character, as +well as a useful and obliging man), was as much to be pitied as any one, +since many who were annoyed with the detention, would not listen to +reason, and were very much inclined to quarrel with him for it. As for +me, I could hardly bear to see the little flasks of brandy handed about +among the few to whom it could be distributed, while the weary, thirsty, +shivering soldiers stood by, looking on. The violence of the hail and +rain decreased at last, and we essayed proceeding, but had not gone far +before we were obliged to descend from our vehicles, as one of the +passes had become dangerous, from the softness of the earth in +consequence of the rain. Well may it be said, "God tempers the wind to +the shorn lamb!" Many who might have caught cold in moving from one +room to another less heated, awaited the passing of the waggons up to +their insteps in water, and went on their journey with damp feet, and +with rain drops pattering through the tops of the waggons. + +Wet, weary, and hungry, we reached Sly Kraal at last. Here we were to +rest till Monday; for the waggon conductor would not suffer them to +proceed on the Sunday, and we thus passed two nights and a day in the +camp. + +The kindness of Providence is manifested in providing the South African +traveller with wood that is not the less capable of ignition from being +wet. Our tents, saturated as they were, were soon pitched; but we were +again obliged to sleep in the waggon, which we did most soundly, after a +welcome meal of carbonatje [meat toasted on a wooden prong before the +fire, or broiled on the ashes], brown bread, and warm negus. The sun +burst into the waggon in all his glory, the next morning, and, although +within so short a distance of Graham's Town, I cannot but admit that I +was glad of one day's rest before my _entree_ into the capital of the +frontier. We had, indeed, been so thoroughly knocked up, that, though +refreshed by sleep, the having time for ablutions and the selection of +clean linen was a great treat on such a journey. The Sabbath of the +12th of March was thus passed in camp. The ground we had taken up +reminded me of the grouse moors in Scotland, and in the wildest parts of +Yorkshire, and we were told there was abundance of game about; at +dinner, indeed, we were regaled with some hare-soup, sent to us from the +mess-tent. As we approached the end of our journey, I could not but +acknowledge how much better we had got through it than I had +anticipated; and, accustomed to judge of things by comparison, to seek +content, in fact, by measuring my own case, with that of those who are +worse off, rather than those who have more apparent luxuries than +myself, I felt thankful, in spite of the anxiety and fatigue I had +encountered, for all the benefits bestowed on us; and, while I pondered +gratefully, as I rested on cushions spread on a mat within the shadow of +the tent, I learned that a poor woman had been confined the evening +before, just as the waggons came to their resting-places. I went to +visit her immediately, though the sight would have been enough to make +one weep, had it not been for the cheerful voice of the poor soldier's +wife herself. She sat up in the waggon with her husband's cloak and a +blanket under her for a bed, a small red handkerchief round her neck, +her new-born infant in her arms, and three other children gathered round +her. But, oh! the kind voices and ready hands which helped and cheered +her! and, instead of repining at her fatigue and trouble, she looked up +at the sky, and observed, "it was a blessed, gladsome day." I left her, +satisfied that that wretched vehicle contained lighter hearts than many +a darkened room, where closed shutters and costly draperies shut out the +noise of the uncaring world, and the glare of a too saucy sun from the +heirs of vast possessions. + +On Monday, at six o'clock we started on the last day's march, and +reached the hill above Graham's Town, a little before nine a.m. Here we +were met by crowds of Hottentot women: some of them young, rather +pretty, and decidedly graceful. They came bounding on to meet the drums +and fifes, and with their red-handkerchief head-dresses, gay-coloured +clothes, and glittering ornaments, formed a picturesque group, as they +danced on in front of the battalion, to the great entertainment of the +soldiers. At the very top of the hill, the band of the Cape Mounted +Rifles awaited our approach; their appearance, in their plumed shakos +and scarlet trousers, being very showy. A little further on, we were +met by the band of the 91st (attached to the first battalion), and that +of the 75th; and in this gay order we entered Graham's Town, the bands +relieving each other, and playing the liveliest airs. Here, a Hottentot +woman tossed her arms aloft, and spun round to the tune of "Nix my +dolly, pals," there, a driver snapped his fingers to "Rory O'More." +These two tunes, and the "Sprig of shillelah," seemed their especial +favourites; and, if the dancers did not move with the stateliness of +Taglioni, or the airy grace of Cerito, they certainly rivalled them in +the activity of their limbs and the steadiness of their heads; for they +whirled round and round, like the Dervishes in the Arabian Nights. The +sun illuminated the town, lying within its sheltering circle of hill and +mountain, the rabble shouted welcome, and all looked glad as they +approached their destination (although only a temporary one for some of +us), and the well-spread table, and cleanly appearance of the apartments +provided, truly gave promise of "ease in mine inn." + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + +Note 1. This fine jetty was destroyed in a gale of wind, in 1847, by a +ship, which, having broken from her moorings, was driven, stern +foremost, right through the fabric. The unfortunate crew, jumping from +the ship to the lower end of the jetty, had congratulated themselves on +their escape from the raging waves, when another vessel coming in +contact with the wood-work, carried the whole of it away with its +unhappy and ill-starred freight into the boiling surge beneath! + +Note 2. It is very unsafe, when travelling in Southern Africa, to trust +to procuring _anything_ on the road; such a chance is very uncertain. +Milk, boiled with plenty of white sugar, will keep good if bottled, for +three days at least. + + + +PART TWO, CHAPTER THREE. + +SOJOURN AT FORT PEDDIE. + +We left Graham's Town for Fort Peddie, on the 22nd of March, 1843, the +waggon allowed by the Commissariat being only half the size of the one +we obtained at Port Elizabeth. Just as we were about to start, we were +ordered to halt and await further orders; and then I had to listen to a +variety of reports. Some said another regiment had arrived at Cape +Town, and we were to proceed to Natal; others whispered something about +the Isle of France. At all events, important despatches had reached +Graham's Town from the seat of Government. So there was I, in my +waggon, hired and packet for Fort Peddie, the troops under arms, the +commissariat preparations made for the march, the tents struck, etc, and +a probability of all these arrangements being upset. At last, a mounted +orderly arrived, full of important haste, and breathless, as becomes a +herald of South African counter-orders. The detachment was to be +detained--for an hour--I forget what for, something about a few extra +men, or arms, and we were thus delayed till the afternoon, when we +proceeded as far as we could, and pitched our tents on the top of one of +many hills, between which the wind came rushing in gusts that threatened +to withdraw our shelter from over our heads. My child I screened a +little from the chilling wind by placing a saddle in an angle at her +head--a novel addition to the couch of a young lady. + +The next day's journey led us over grassy plains, in which the mimosa, +with its bright golden clusters, abounded; and on the third day from +Graham's Town we reached Trumpeter's Drift. Here we were detained for +two days, owing to the swollen state of the river. When we crossed it, +we sent the waggons before us, ere we took our seats in the ferry-boats, +as it is not an unusual thing to be wrecked in the Great Fish River, +although seated in a ponderous waggon drawn by fourteen oxen. The +following ingenious mode of crossing a river was once displayed by a +Kaffir who had for some time stood watching the vain attempts of a party +of soldiers to struggle across the stream at a time when to ford it was +attended by considerable danger. After smiling at their efforts with +that sardonic expression remarkable among these savages, he quietly +raised a heavy stone, placed it on his head, and then walked, with +perfect ease, through the torrent to the opposite side. + +Another instance of Kaffir ingenuity has been related to me. A +missionary and his family were travelling in severely cold weather; now +and then they lighted fires, warmed themselves, and then went on. The +Kaffir drivers snatched brands from the fires, running on in advance, +setting fire to the bushes on the roadside, returning to the waggons, +again advancing, and so on, till they left a long line of fiery bushes +in the track they had passed over. + +One of our waggons stuck in the mud on its way; the drivers shouted, the +dogs barked, the oxen struggled, but all in vain till the soldiers lent +their assistance. + +It is said that Trumpeter's Drift is so called from a trumpeter of the +21st Light Dragoons having been lost in the river one dark night. It is +a small post about twenty miles from Graham's Town. The little barrack +for the soldiers and the officer commanding, faces inwards upon a +quadrangle, and makes but a dull abode, the windows looking into the +little square, and the air being admitted through loop-holes in the +outward walls. This gives the quarters a dreary appearance; but, in a +land of savages determined to annoy us whenever they dare, and in whom +no faith should be placed, prevention is better than cure. + +Fort Peddie, from a distance, reminds one of Cooper's descriptions of +groups of buildings erected by settlers in the prairies of America. The +Fingo huts scattered all round favour the delusion, especially at night, +when dark figures stalk to and fro, dimly seen in the light of their +fires, and the chant I have endeavoured to describe rises and falls on +the air. It was worthy of English philanthropy to rescue the Fingoes +from their captivity, under their hard taskmasters, the Kaffirs; but +their idleness is almost incredible. It is true that on occasion they +are able assistants to the Government agents in rescuing stolen cattle; +but for this they are amply rationed. The Missionaries are +indefatigable in teaching them their catechism; but no attempt is made +to fit the women for service. Idle they are, and idle they will be; and +we foster their idleness by protecting them with troops, while they +absolutely refuse to milk the cows, unless they want money at the +moment. + +As Fort Peddie is on the eastern side of the Great Fish River, which is +frequently impassable from its swollen state, we were often without the +comforts of butter, rice, flour, wine, etc. The mutton, of the Cape +breed, is indifferent, and the beef execrable. The bread was of the +coarsest description. Poultry could only be obtained, when the Fingoes +took the trouble to catch their fowls and sell them. + +Since the Kaffir war, a tower has been built here, on the top of which +is a six-pounder. An excellent barrack has been built for the Cape +corps, and another for the troops of the line, but as yet no officers' +quarter. The houses which are scattered about the plain on which the +fortifications stand, (for, besides the barracks, there is another +temporary fortress thrown up from the earth, and protected by a ditch), +give a picturesque air to the spot, and the thatched cottages and white +chimneys rising above the few trees which have thriven round them, make +a tolerable picture to look at, however little comfort there is to be +found within them. The climate is certainly good, especially in the +winter, which reminds one of our English autumnal days. The hot winds +occasionally prevailing in the summer, when the thermometer is at 120 +degrees, are most unpleasant; but the house may be kept cool by closing +and darkening doors and windows. These winds never last many days. I +must not omit to mention our simple barometer, which saves us the +trouble of carrying one about. Thus, take a bottle with a wide neck--a +large anchovy bottle for instance--and fill it nearly up to the neck +with water; into this insert an inverted empty salad flask, or bottle of +such description, and in the neck of the flask place a loose piece of +cork, of a size that will admit of its free movement up and down. The +falling of the cork indicates the approach of wet or windy weather, +while the rising of it foretells it will be fair. Mention is made of +such a barometer in some old Dutch manuscript lately brought under +observation at the Cape. + +And now, having given an abstract of particulars relative to the +inhabitants of this land, in order to explain their relations to our +Government, and the character of the people among whom England has +established settlers and soldiers, I shall begin to relate such +occurrences as I witnessed during my sojourn on the eastern side of the +Great Fish River; I shall not confine myself strictly to either the +diary or the narrative form, but shall use either as it may seem best to +answer my purpose of giving my reader a lively idea of the events that I +attempt to describe. + +In looking over my rough journal, I find the part best worth +transcribing is dated April 12th, 1843, and opens with a description of +the "Entrance of Sandilla to Fort Peddie." + +"I was sitting at my work one morning in my low cottage room, when the +tramp of horses' feet, long continued, like troops on a march, attracted +my attention. I looked out, and saw across the plain a crowd of +wild-looking horsemen. A young man was at the head of them, preceded by +an advanced guard, armed and mounted. Forty others followed their +chief, the young Sandilla, son of old Gaika, and head of the Gaika +tribe, his mother being Sutu, a Tambookie; he is also nephew to Macomo, +at present _nominally_ our ally. The appearance of this troop was +certainly picturesque; a bright handkerchief formed the head-dress of +each, save one, whose head was shaved in token of mourning. The corners +of the handkerchiefs hanging down on the left side, gave a jaunty air to +the said head-gear; the kaross concealed the form but the feet and right +arm, the right hand carrying the war allowance of seven assegais. They +rode on in great precision, the advance guard alone preceding the chief, +who was professedly on his way to visit Mr Shepstone, but was supposed +to be sent out of the way of a council at Beaufort, under some pretext, +by Macomo, as it was well-known that Mr Shepstone was absent. +Sandilla, being of royal blood, great jealousy is felt towards him; he +is imagined by some to be a fool, by others a knave. He has always an +Imrad (councillor) at his elbow, who watches him, and, as he speaks no +English, interprets for him, and is no doubt his principal guide in +words and deeds. + +"Not long ago, a picture was exhibited in London of Sandilla, in his +boyhood, and a note appended to the picture informed the curious that +`this young prince might be considered a fortunate youth, since, in the +first instant of his birth, he stood a chance of being destroyed in +consequence of his left foot being withered, but that during the war, he +was concealed, and taken care of; otherwise, but for his extreme youth, +he would have been sought out and murdered by some of his uncles, who +would gladly have established themselves in his government, which is +superior to most others; the Gaika Chief being head of many other great +tribes, each having their chiefs with petty chiefs under them.' His +uncle, Bothman, long ago seceded from Sandilla, establishing a tribe for +himself, despising him as a chief on account of his youth: he is now +barely one and twenty. + +"Sandilla and his followers hung about the post for two or three days, +and were remarkably insolent in their demands; asking for rations as a +right, and carrying off as much firewood as they wanted on their +bivouac, from the wood-stacks of the inhabitants. They went to every +house with the usual cry of `Baseila!' and asking for wine and tobacco. + +"I was standing with my husband on the green, round which the fort, +tower, barracks, and outbuildings are erected, at Fort Peddie, when +Sandilla, himself on horseback, but with two followers on foot, came up +to us at full tilt. When in front of us he reined in his horse, and, +leaning forward in his sheepskin saddle, took a quiet survey of us. +There was something singularly wild and almost interesting in his +demeanour. For a minute, he sate with his gleaming eyes glancing from +one to the other with an intensely earnest look, and helplessly at his +horse's side hung down his withered foot and ankle, no larger than a +child's. Near him, in silence, stood his two followers, +magnificent-looking creatures, with complexions of dark olive, set off +by their bright blue head-dresses. Their attitudes, as they leaned on +their assegais, were easy and graceful. So they stood, till their young +chief had finished his survey, while we repaid him glance for glance. +Sandilla then spoke in a low, muttered tone to his followers, who +repeated, as if demanding a right, `Baseila!' But we had nothing with +us, and, after another examination of our countenances, Sandilla turned +his horse away, and galloped off without further salutation, his running +footmen keeping pace with his swift steed. They then established +themselves at our cottage-garden gate; but at last, getting tired of +waiting for us, the crowd of savage cavalry withdrew to the position +they had fixed on for the night, about a mile from the post. In a few +days, they departed, in the same order as they came. + +"Our most interesting visitor is the Christian Kaffir Chief, Kama; his +habits and demeanour are those of a gentleman, his dress is of good, +though plain materials, and his mild voice, coupled with his smooth and +gentle language, is pleasant to listen to. He has long been a convert +to Christianity, and is so conscientious that, some time ago, he created +a dangerous party against himself by sending back to her country a +Tambookie woman [the Tambookies are considered as a royal race of +Kaffirs]--who had been offered him as a wife--saying that the religion +he had embraced permitted him only one wife. On the Tambookies +complaining to his brother-in-law, Macomo, the latter declined +interfering, whether from from policy or good feeling is doubtful. So +uncertain is Kama of the good faith of his brothers, Pato and Cobus +Congo, that he is about to remove to the Bechuana country, where he +intends putting himself under the protection of Mosheesh, the Basoota +Chief, and having, like Mosheesh, a house built in the English style. +So far, Mosheesh is civilised; but on my asking how many wives he had, +he replied, `Perhaps a hundred!' + +"We showed Kama, the other day, a six-barrelled revolving pistol, and an +air-cane. What wonder and admiration were depicted in his fine +countenance! The Kaffir seldom expresses open surprise; all that he +says is `Soh! soh!' repeated slowly, and with a reflective air. Kama +was more delighted with the workmanship of the pistol, than with the +wonderful power of the air-cane. + +"One day, while we were seated at dinner, with the door open, the day +being warm, Cobus Congo walked in. He had on an old artillery uniform, +which belonged to the late Colonel Storey. On that day, as it was +Cobus's first visit, we did not turn him out, but we resolved on not +following the foolish custom of permitting the Kaffirs to take, with us, +liberties which are not suffered among themselves. Old Pato, also, with +his panther eyes, came up to the door, begging, as usual; and, when they +had obtained the tobacco we gave to get rid of them, off they walked, no +doubt thinking us great fools for our pains." + +Another entry in my journal refers to the dispute between Umhala and +Gasella, which was considered of sufficient importance to bring the +Lieutenant-Governor, with a hundred men of the 71st, and fifty of the +Cape Corps, to Fort Peddie. I find the account of the quarrel and its +consequences in my journal tally so exactly with that given in the +"Graham's Town Journal," that I quote the latter:-- + +"The outline of the facts connected with this affair, is as follows:-- +The youths of two neighbouring tribes, as is often customary when they +happen to meet, had engaged in a fray, in the course of which some of +them were hurt, and one of them is said to have been killed. On this, +the father of one of these boys, a petty chief, belonging to Sandilla's +tribe, proceeded to the kraal of Gasella, to whom he demeaned himself so +insolently, that the chief, irritated beyond endurance, knocked him +down, and commanded him to be driven from the place. This appears to +have been seized upon as a sufficient pretext for carrying into +execution the design long entertained of crippling the power of Gasella, +and driving him from his present position, where, with his well-known +friendly disposition towards the colony, he has been a most vexatious +check upon the forays of the neighbouring tribes upon the cattle and +horses of the colonial farmers. + +"To understand this matter aright, it may be necessary to explain that +Gasella resides in the very centre of Kaffirland, his kraals occupying a +tract of open country at the base of the Amatola Mountains, at the +extreme point of the range which then turns towards the Tambookie +country. These mountains are of a most impracticable character, rugged, +encumbered with impervious thicket, and acclivitous,--and hence, the +spot occupied by Gasella, just at the apex of the bend, is the key or +high-road into Hintza's country, and also into the interior of +Tambookie-land. It will appear very evident from this sketch, that such +a position, occupied by a chief so friendly disposed towards the colony +as Gasella has proved himself to be, must be a continual source of +annoyance to those tribes who consider the plunder of the colonists as +nothing more than a kind of primitive commerce, and who appear to think +that the colonists should supply them, without grumbling, with beef and +mutton, and saddle-horses, whenever they may please to require them. + +"The present moment appears favourable for disabusing the Kaffirs, and +their apologists, of these notions, and we have now to learn whether the +Government will permit the design in question to succeed, or whether, by +prompt and efficient interference, the Kaffirs shall be taught to +respect British authority--and be convinced that those who act +faithfully towards the colony will not be suffered, for their fidelity, +to be crushed by their refractory and dishonest countrymen. Gasella has +long requested the support of the British Government, and it is +important to remember that there is no point in Kaffirland where a force +might be placed with so much advantage to the colony and so well +calculated to secure the peace of Kaffirland, as the territory from +whence an attempt is now being made to drive the chief in question. + +"It is creditable to the Lieutenant-Governor that he appears resolved to +act with determination in this matter, and to sustain Gasella against +his enemies. His Honour is now at Fort Peddie, whence a message had +been sent by him to Umhala, requiring his attendance. The messengers +returned on Tuesday with Umhala's reply, viz--`I am also a chief, +therefore I will not come at the bidding of his Honour. I say so +because I have not yet heard who has complained of me to the Government, +and because I know not for what reason I am called--_therefore I will +not come_!!' Another message has been sent him, to the effect that his +Honour holds him responsible to the British for the welfare of Gasella, +and requires Umhala's attendance at Fort Peddie forthwith, and that if +he does not appear, he (the Lieutenant-Governor) will enter his country +with troops, and he (Umhala) must abide the consequences. In the +meantime, more troops are ordered from Fort Beaufort on this +expedition." + +Colonel Hare and his aide-de-camp arrived at Fort Peddie on the 24th of +April, 1843, drenched to the skin, and without even a change of clothes, +till the Orderly and saddle-bags arrived. The 91st and the Cape Corps +had been hurried away from church parade; and one could not but admire +the example of a man in Colonel Hare's position in not staying to +provide himself with personal comforts, which were even permitted to the +soldier; for the Lieutenant-Governor, with the possibility of being +obliged to proceed into Kaffirland before him, had neither tent nor +waggon at command for his own personal convenience. + +More troops were under orders at Fort Beaufort. Day after day, during +the week, some subtle message was received from Umhala. He was +evidently delaying his march till his spies brought him intelligence +from Fort Peddie, and till, as he himself expressed it (affecting +courtesy, but intending insolence), he had collected a force of +sufficient number to meet Colonel Hare's assemblage. Umhala, as was +afterwards proved, was lingering in the neighbourhood, conferring with +his brother Umki, and his nephew Sandilla, both of whom are bitterly +opposed to Gasella. It was said by many worthy of credence, that these +plots had long been concocting between the parties; hence, probably, +arose Sandilla's unexpected and protracted visit to Fort Peddie, whither +he was accompanied by Umki. + +On Saturday, April 29th, Colonel Hare, learning that Umhala was resting +at a missionary station four miles from Peddie, with the intention of +advancing to the council on the following Monday, resolved on leaving +the meeting to the arrangement of Major Lamont, next in command; and, +having become acquainted with the leading features of the case, returned +to his duties at Graham's Town. Umhala had at first proposed to bring +his followers to Peddie on Sunday, but this was not to be permitted, nor +was he at all events to approach nearer to it than Somerset Mount, about +four miles off. Having ascertained from Mr Shepstone that the meeting +would be a peaceable one, I was prevailed on to accompany my husband and +his brother officers to the conference, and at nine in the morning of +the 30th of April we rode out, keeping pretty close to the Cape Corps, +the _Roed Batjes_, or red-jackets (as they term the British troops on +the frontier) being left at Fort Peddie in reserve. It was a lovely +morning, resembling in its temperature the opening of one of our warm +spring days. The mimosa-bushes, more powerful than our own May, yet +reminded us of its redolence; but there were no singing-birds. This is +one of our wants in South Africa. A kind of swallow, though, which +built its long bottle-mouthed nest in our verandah, occasionally +enlivened us with its merry chirrup and long trill, clear as a silver +bell. + +I own to feeling a little bewildered; the arrival of more troops at Fort +Peddie had been sudden, and the total want of provision for comfort +among the officers, called forth activity in at least making them +welcome to such refreshments as we could offer; while the determination +to witness the proceedings of the conference having been a thing of a +moment, produced a certain degree of excitement not easily to be +subdued. As we proceeded, the advance guard hastened on in front, and I +confess that, when they made a sudden halt, and called out in Dutch that +the Kaffirs were in sight, my heart fluttered. As a corrective to this, +I gave my horse his head at once, and kept up, at a little distance from +the road, with the hand-gallop of the troops. Be it remembered, in +defence of my womanly attributes, which I would not abjure for the +world, that I had the greatest faith in Mr Shepstone's assurance that +the Kaffirs would be peaceably disposed as long as we remained so, and I +knew his information, from his knowledge of their character and policy, +to be correct. Still, I own to the beating of my heart, and a slight +coldness about the lips. On, however, I went, determined to resist the +feeling; and the fresh morning air, the sight of English officers, and +the knowledge of the effectiveness of the accompanying troops, soon +dissipated my nervous feelings. Before us, advancing down the hills, +was Umhala, mounted, and surrounded by his followers, also mounted, in +number about two hundred. As soon, apparently, as they had obtained a +full and fair view of us, enabling them to estimate pretty accurately +our number, they dismounted. Away went their horses, none being +saddled, nor, apparently, bridled, to enjoy the sweets of the fresh +grass. Then the Kaffir chief and his people formed themselves into a +phalanx, certainly of most warlike appearance; each man bearing his war +allowance of seven assegais, and carrying a musket in his right hand. +Now, too, I remarked that the blanket and brown coverlid had almost +superseded the kaross. In a short time, they formed themselves into a +semicircle, six or eight deep, Umhala himself, in European costume-- +resembling a mechanic's Sunday coat and trousers, and with a hat to +match--being seated in the centre. Down they all squatted, with their +arms close by them, for use in case of need. The English commissioners +(for so we may term Major Lamont and Mr Shepstone) shook hands with +Umhala, as he rose from his seat and advanced to give them a civil +greeting, as the latter did also with his adversary, Gasella, who had +ridden with us to the conference. + +Umhala then retired to his position, and there was a silence of some +minutes, the Kaffirs examining us with their keen glances, and we, in +turn, looking at them in true English style, "straight in the face." At +last, after a long pause, Mr Shepstone entered upon the business of the +meeting, by reading to them a translation, in the Kaffir language, of +Colonel Hare's letter, demanding Umhala's reason for annoying and +letting his people annoy Gasella, etc, etc. After due deliberation, and +sundry whispers between his Hemraaden, or councillors, and himself, +Umhala began his reply by apologies for keeping Colonel Hare at Fort +Peddie, in expectation of his arrival. He said "the weather had been +severe, the rains had made the roads heavy for his horses, his people +were unable to hurry themselves," and so forth; and all this apology was +delivered in a cold sarcastic tone, indicative of a contempt he scarcely +cared to conceal. He denied much that Gasella had stated, though the +story was well authenticated; and, though I could not understand the +language, the characters of the two chiefs were manifested in their +deportment. Umhala spoke slowly and deliberately, having listened +patiently (with an occasional ejaculation of "Soh," "Soh," at each +period) to Mr Shepstone's address. Now and then he smiled scornfully, +and with an air of mock civility, towards Gasella, and the whole import +of his speech appeared to me to mean this--"I hate you--you are the ally +of the English; we dare not touch you now, as you are surrounded by +them, but this is only temporary, we will annihilate you whenever a good +opportunity offers." I found afterwards that my translation was +wonderfully literal. + +Gasella, in replying, rather lost his temper, and no wonder, finding +that Umhala denied everything, and persisted that his adversary had +seriously injured the Imrad, though he had taken care to leave the said +Imrad at the kraal, where he had been seen a day or two before, by an +agent of Mr Shepstone's, and was reported perfectly free from injury. + +Finding the meeting such a peaceful-looking affair, another officer's +wife who was of the party, proposed that she and I should ride on half a +mile farther, to the missionary station, but it was thought unadvisable; +and it was as well we remained where we were, for we learned that the +peaceful valley behind the site of the council contained a thousand +armed Kaffirs, Umhala fearing we might attempt to take him prisoner. +The sight of those savages would have been unpleasant, though, without a +signal from their chief, they would not have molested us. On each +hill-top, looking gigantic, as the clear sky threw out their forms in +strong relief, were scouts--their blankets or karosses flying in the +wind, and their assegais over their shoulders--placed there, no doubt, +to watch our proceedings, and alarm Umhala's "reserve battalion," in the +event of our displaying hostile intent. + +Umhala asked several times, in a tone of quiet impertinence, "by what +right Colonel Hare had summoned him at all? What proof was there of his +hostility towards Gasella?" and thus Umhala sneered, and Mr Shepstone +remonstrated, and little shabby Gasella scolded, and then the council +was dissolved, it being decided that Gasella, having already paid a +heavier fine of cattle than he ought to have done, should pay no more, +although Umhala had demanded fifty head above what Gasella had given, as +compensation for the Imrad's pretended injury. + +As we returned from the scene of the council, which had taken place on +an elevation crowned with mimosa-bushes, the phalanx rose, and one fired +a musket in the air, a genuine _feu de joie_, no doubt, at our peaceful +departure. + +Gasella returned to Fort Peddie with us, and, in the afternoon, the +troops marched back to Graham's Town. Though Gasella gained his point +in not paying the cattle demanded by Umhala, it would eventually be +taken openly, or stolen from him. In short, the meeting between these +two adverse chiefs reminded me of two quarrelsome boys being summoned +before the master, reprimanded, and sent away, both being more bitter +enemies than before, and the stronger one resolved to have his revenge +on the weaker as soon as he gets him into a quiet corner. + +I was rather amused at the "introduction" of the chief Gasella to me, on +the evening before the council was to meet. I was sitting over the +fire, chatting with an officer, when, Pato and an inferior Kaffir came +in, followed by a dirty, miserable little man, in a threadbare surtout, +broken hat, etc. On my asking Pato some question relative to the +quarrel with the chiefs, which had sent the troops a three days' march +in miserable weather, he pointed to the wretched little object who had +advanced to my elbow, and said, "There--Gasella." I stared, and, +feeling some sympathy for the creature, gave him a chair. Both asked +for wine and tobacco; I gave them some cigars. At this moment Kama +arrived, and, seeing they intended lighting their cigars at my +sitting-room fire, he pointed out the impropriety of it, and they +departed. Gasella is less civilised even than Pato, and very unlike a +Kaffir in appearance. + +We could not but observe Kama's cautious bearing, as we questioned him +concerning Umhala. It was evident, however, that he had been entrusted +with no political secrets. Every trait in Kama was interesting; his +gentleness, consistence, patience, and hazardous position between his +richer brothers, Pato and Congo, made him, indeed, an object of our care +and protection. Nevertheless, poor Kama gave us very little trouble, +asked for no presents, being resolved on quieter establishing a position +for himself on the other side of the Orange River, or the Keiskama. + +May 4th. Every day brings accounts of cattle-stealing about Beaufort, +in the more immediate neighbourhood of Graham's Town, and the outposts +nearest to it. The news that has arrived from England concerning Natal, +is promising, though some inquire what compensation is made for the loss +of such promising officers as Lieutenants Wyatt and Prior, who were just +as much killed in action as any of those "brave and lamented soldiers +who fell in the late disastrous affair of Afghanistan?" How such +leniency will operate, remains to be proved. Already the Boers about +Colesberg are beginning to creep off to the other side of the Orange +River, ostensibly to attack Panda, the Zoola chief, but in reality to +assist the insurgent Boers at Natal. + +May 26.--Chief Kama, the only Christian Kaffir chief--I believe the only +Christian Kaffir--is passing through Peddie, with his family, baggage, +followers, and fifteen hundred head of cattle. His life is not safe in +the neighbourhood of his brothers, Pato and Cobus Congo. He is bound +for the Bechuana country, on the other side the Orange River; but, until +spring commences, he will make a halt near Beaufort, and act under the +protection of our nominal and drunken ally, Macomo, uncle of Sandilla, +and a chief of the Gaika tribe. + +The post of to-day brings, as usual, accounts of continued depredations, +and the Fingoes of this neighbourhood, the people we are protecting, +have been made to render up more than three hundred head of cattle which +they had appropriated to themselves, from the kraals of various people. + + + +PART TWO, CHAPTER FOUR. + +A "COMMANDO." + +The even tenour of our life at Fort Peddie has just been diversified by +a "foray" into the lands of a redoubtable cattle-stealer of the +I'Slambie tribe, named Tola, against whom repeated complaints had been +made by the settlers in various parts of the district of Lower Albany, +of depredations committed on their farms, and among their cattle. The +Lieutenant-Governor resolved on sending a body of troops against him, in +order to rescue the stolen cattle, and break up that chief's government +and tribe. Before, however, the troops had assembled at the +rallying-point, Fort Willshire [Note 1], Tola had sent the plunder away +either into the interior of Kaffirland, with his wives, children, and +people, or into secluded kloofs, under the care of herds belonging to +the tribes of some of those very chiefs who acted as allies and guides +to the British troops on the occasion. There stood the offender's kraal +consisting of scattered and empty huts, and there was the "grand army," +(upwards of five hundred strong) in array against "Tola's country;" +while Tola himself was taking an occasional peep at the proceedings from +his lurking-places in the bush, smiling, no doubt, at so many of Her +Majesty's soldiers being sent out to hunt him,--he--a Kaffir Chief--on +his own wild ground, in many places inaccessible to European infantry, +or Hottentot cavalry! + +At first setting out on the "Commando," as the campaigns are called, the +affair promised to be pleasant enough; the weather was delightful, +though the month of June is our first winter month here. One company of +the 91st had obeyed orders to the letter of the law, and had taken the +field in "light marching order:" but the rest had a certain number of +waggons and tents, and it was amusing to see the comforts with which +some had surrounded themselves--canteens, easy chairs, bedsteads, +tables, mats, cooking utensils, etc. These resolved on making the best +of the matter, turning what at first appeared a warlike expedition into +a pic-nic party; though others were content to lie in the bush, and fare +no better than the men they commanded. + +Never, however, had been seen such times of marching, counter-marching, +bivouacking, and eating and drinking, since the days when the City Train +Bands and the Westminster Volunteers were called into active service on +Wimbledon, Kennington, and Clapham Commons, where they encamped to +little purpose, except to eat sandwiches, and drink the King's health in +"London particular." About a fortnight after the troops had assembled +at Willshire, a division of them, consisting of upwards of two hundred +of the 91st, and the same number of the Cape Corps, were ordered to Fort +Peddie, to halt and refresh themselves; but the springs, owing to the +want of rain, were nearly dry (and a sentry is always placed on the +principal tank at Peddie [Note 2]); so the 91st remained in the +neighbourhood of the kraal belonging to Eno, a dependent chief of the +Gaika tribe, and the Cape Corps came on. There was brack (salt) water +enough for the horses. + +Sunday was spent peacefully at Peddie, and on Monday morning, June 6th, +1843, as the two corps were to meet six or seven miles from the post, I +was induced to ride out, with another lady and a party, to the +rendezvous. Although I by no means think the head of a brigade in array +for the field an eligible place for ladies in general, my friend and I +did not regret having yielded to the various solicitations, that we +should proceed a little further with the expedition, which had no chance +of becoming in reality a warlike one. + +The morning resembled the one I have described in my account of Umhala's +affair. Certainly a South African morning is incomparably beautiful. +The want of rain had taken from the turf much of its freshness; still, +the mimosa is always green, and the perfume of its bright yellow +blossoms most delicious. We kept to the grass, smooth as velvet, and +gently undulating here and there, with wooded kloofs to the right and +left of us; while the Cape Corps, in dusky array, filled the high-road. +Nothing can be more efficient than the appearance of the Hottentot +soldier, though I confess to laughing heartily at one or two immediately +in advance of us. + +There he is, in his bush-coloured jacket, clay-coloured leather +trousers, seated on his sturdy little steed, as though nothing had ever +parted, or could ever part, the horse and his rider. Before him, on his +light dragoon saddle, is rolled his cloak; behind him, his blanket, +corn-sack, and nose-bag; a slight change of shoes, trousers, etc, is +carried, in the haversack in light marching order, and in a valise on +other occasions. His double-barrelled percussion carbine, wrapped in +sheepskin, rests its muzzle in a holster adapted for the purpose; and +across his shoulder is slung his belt, a pouch containing twenty rounds +of ammunition, and, occasionally, a canteen. When it is remembered that +the average height of a Hottentot soldier is five feet one, and that he +is slight in proportion, it may be imagined what a figure he cuts when +accoutred for the field; but he is the most efficient soldier for this +colony for all that. He is keen-witted and intelligent, patient of +hunger, thirst, and fatigue, active as a monkey, and possessed of a +perfect knowledge of the country, and occasionally of the Kaffir +language. Add to this, the officers of this corps have either been long +residents in the colony, or are the sons of people who have known no +other home for many years. Fit commanders, then, are they for such +troops. + +Over the turf we cantered, the delicious air imparting spirits to +ourselves and to our steeds, and, as we advanced, we left the +green-jackets winding along the road behind us, while down between two +green hills came the 91st, the shrill bagpipes sounding strangely indeed +among these far plains and echoing valleys of Africa. Here we all +halted for a few minutes, till I was persuaded to go on to the banks of +the Keiskama, where one party was to encamp for some time, and the other +to bivouac and dine, previously to crossing the river into Kaffirland. +Our little private party then proceeded, with those who were to take up +the ground for the encampment. A beautiful spot was selected; nothing +could be more picturesque. On a mound, commanding an extensive view of +the country, the 91st were to establish themselves. Up the hill +followed the division of the red-jackets, a long line of waggons, camp +sutlers, Fingoes, Commissariat people, servants, led horses, etc, +bringing up the rear. In a few moments, the white tents dotted the +ground; fires were lit, and, in an incredibly short time, there was +savoury evidence of carbonatje. My head ached with the fatigue of the +ride, and, perhaps, the excitement of the scene; but that was nothing. +A table was spread for me near a kindly bush, and a breakfast that would +have satisfied an epicure craved attention. I rejoiced over some +deliciously-made coffee, and then took a survey of the scene beneath. +On a beautiful and level plain the Cape Corps had bivouacked: some +lounged and slept in the centre of the square which had been formed by +piling each man's saddle, blanket, etc; others snatched their +hastily-cooked meal near a cluster of bushes. The laugh of the +merry-makers ascended gaily up the hill, and the brazen call of the +trumpet, or bugle, was given back by the echoes from the tall grey rocks +bounding the opposite side of the Keiskama, whose quiet waters glided +peacefully on under the shadow of overhanging boughs on one side, and on +the other stately cliffs variegated with mimosas and euphorbias. On its +green banks reclined a crowd of Fingo warriors, in their war attire of +plumes, assegais, shields of bullock-hide, and their karosses draped +gracefully round them. The chiefs wore tiger-skins. Indolent they +looked, basking in the sunshine, smoking dagha, the seed of a kind of +wild hemp, having much the same effect as opium on the senses. In the +field these people are useful assistants, and most formidable opponents +to their former severe taskmasters, the Kaffirs. Their rain-makers and +doctors cut a conspicuous and grotesque figure, with their strange +fantastic head-dresses of jackal's and monkey's tails. The mischief +these wretches do I have already described. + +Presently, the quiet of the scene was disturbed; the trumpet of the Cape +Corps gave forth its brazen signal to upsaddle; men and horses were soon +in their ranks; few waggons were were in the train of this corps, so +accustomed to the field, and so fitted to its duties; and, ere half an +hour had elapsed, the ground, which had presented so animated an +appearance, was unoccupied. The sound of the Keiskama's gently flowing +waters remained undisturbed, the Fingo phalanx had moved onwards, and +the little mound on which the 91st were encamped, formed a lively +contrast to the profound repose of the valley below. As the afternoon +advanced, we too thought of upsaddling and away. + +Writers are often accused of "inventing a moonlight" on occasion; but I +protest that in many of our rambling expeditions here, the moon has +especially favoured us. Indeed, we seldom ventured to make excursions +in this country of early sunsets and no twilight, without the prospect +of a moon for our homeward ride at night. We left the camp at three +o'clock; and, as we proceeded from the spot, we looked back. We could +now see both parties; the white tents and scarlet jackets of the 91st, +and the long array of the Cape Corps, which, having crossed the +Keiskama, was now wending its way into Kaffirland. The evening air was +growing chilly, and we were fain to advance instead of glancing back. +When we reached the missionary station, within four miles of Peddie, we +found that the hospitable family there had been watching our approach, +for their table was spread with goodly refreshment, and never was poor +creature more grateful for anything than was I for Mrs Tainton's +fragrant cup of tea, so kindly and readily bestowed. + +It must be observed that the troops crossed the Keiskama entirely with +the nominal concurrence of the chiefs, with the exception of Sandilla, +as they affected to be much annoyed at Tola's continued contempt of the +treaties, and his repeated inroads on the property of the colonists. It +has since been proved, as might have been expected, that, while the +chiefs were accompanying the troops into the field, they were constantly +misguiding them, and giving them wrong information relative to the +cattle. + +The troops were soon afterwards dispersed; some went back to Graham's +Town, some to lonely outposts, and some to Beaufort; all very tired of +the business, and some seriously ill, from sleeping in the bush at the +end of the "campaign," when the rain fell in torrents, and the ground +was saturated. Great part of the cattle was rescued by the Fingoes, who +came into Peddie in phalanx, singing their song of triumph, a low, deep, +solemn chant, each voice modulated to the others, in perfect unison. +Their appearance was indeed warlike. It is worthy of remark, that while +the colony remained in this unsettled state, the Kaffir and Fingo women +went about armed with assegais. + +The crossing of the Keiskama gave great offence to Sandilla, the son of +Gaika, and head of the tribe. Yet, what could be done? Not only had +the greater number of the chiefs agreed to it, but some of the cattle +had been traced, and it was necessary to rescue it: but this was more +proposed than done, and the most provoking feature in the case was, that +while we permitted the Kaffirs to occupy the ground they held on +sufferance, they took advantage of the indulgence to plunder the +settlers. + +From this time till war was proclaimed in 1846, the colonists were +engaged in perpetual warfare with the tribes. The farmers could not +stir without arms; murder stalked through the highway in open day, +robberies were too common to be always recorded, and Commandos were +marched through the country to punish recreant chiefs; but the latter +invariably eluded the troops and escaped with the cattle. + +The Dutch, who had long been discontented, declared their intention of +breaking beyond the boundary; but the English settlers were anxious to +"hope against hope," and, on the arrival of Sir Peregrine Maitland in +1844, who came with authority to improve the system of public finance, +their drooping spirits revived, and in the spirit of unshaken loyalty +they placed the most favourable construction on every step proposed to +avert those calamities which subsequently overwhelmed them. + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + +Note 1. A fort on the banks of the Keiskama, once in the occupation of +the English, but given up to the Kaffirs by the last treaties, when the +Great Fish River was established as the boundary. It is now defaced, +little being left to mark its site, the Kaffirs having been permitted to +carry away the wood-work of the buildings, which originally cost at +least 50,000 pounds. + +Note 2. In building the new barracks at Peddie, pipes have been placed +along the roofs, for the purpose of collecting water in the rainy +season. This is a great advantage to the residents, who hitherto have +been dependent on tanks and flays (hollows in the earth, which are +filled by heavy rains). + + + +PART TWO, CHAPTER FIVE. + +BEGINNING OF THE KAFFIR WAR. + +During this period I have little of personal adventure to record. After +a sojourn of a few months at Fort Peddie, we were removed to Graham's +Town, and I was residing there when the war broke out. + +In the month of February, 1846, the Gaika Chief, Sandilla, having before +agreed to the proposal of the British authorities in South Africa, that +a military post should be established at Block Drift, near his own +kraal, or residence, and on the confines of the ceded territory [Note +1], chose to withdraw his consent, and treat the troops sent thither +with great insolence. His excuse was, that he had given his consent to +the Resident Agent, without consulting his councillors who were of a +different opinion. + +On receiving this haughty message, the Lieutenant-Governor, Colonel +Hare, summoned Sandilla to a conference at Block Drift; the young chief +of the Gaikas appeared before the Lieutenant-Governor and his small +array of British troops, surrounded by two thousand warriors, armed with +muskets, and capitally mounted. The arms had been purchased from +British traders,--there being then no law to check the indiscriminate +sale of arms and ammunition to the Kaffirs,--and the greater proportion +of the horses had been plundered from the unfortunate farmers in the +colony. Nothing was decided at this conference, and the project of +establishing a post at Block Drift was for the time, if not altogether, +abandoned. The troops returned to Fort Beaufort, Sandilla to his kraal, +and, some days after, an abject and pathetic message was received by +Colonel Hare from the Gaika chief, with the assent of several other +chiefs subservient to him. The message was exceedingly well "got up," +but meant nothing. + +In March, a Kaffir being convicted of some misdemeanour at Fort +Beaufort, was placed, with others, under the charge of a Hottentot +guard, and ordered into Graham's Town, to be confined in the gaol until +the period of the circuit. Among these prisoners was also an English +dragoon. A party of Kaffirs secreted themselves near the road leading +from Fort Beaufort to Graham's Town, and, on the approach of the guard +and prisoners, darted out of the bush, shot the Hottentot to whom the +Kaffir was handcuffed, severed the dead man's hand from his body, and +led off the rescued savage; followed, however, by the guard, who were +obliged to retreat at last, narrowly escaping with their lives. A few +weeks previously to this event, a German missionary, named Schulz, had +been murdered in cold blood in the open day on the public road, not many +miles from Fort Peddie, by some of Pato's people. The murderers of Mr +Schulz were demanded by the authorities, and Pato promised to deliver +them up, but did not keep his word. He never intended to do so! + +On the murder of the Hottentot, and rescue of the Kaffir prisoner in +March, Colonel Hare resolved to "chastise" the Kaffirs, and issued a +proclamation to that effect. The proclamation caused an immense stir, +and on the 15th of April the troops, began their march through the ceded +territory, seeing at first nothing but empty kraals. + +Nothing was heard in Graham's Town of the progress of the troops for +many days. The 20th of April brought the unexpected intelligence that +the Kaffirs had made a most determined stand in the Amatolas. Several +valuable lives had been lost on our side, and fifty-two waggons +containing the whole of the baggage of the 7th Dragoon Guards, and part +of that of the 91st, had fallen into the hands of the enemy, being burnt +and plundered by them; the Kaffirs quietly arraying themselves in the +clothing and accoutrements of the soldiers. + +Our troops had been engaged for three days fighting desperately with +thousands of these savages, and were compelled to retire upon Block +Drift, where they kept their ground, and finally established, by force +of arms, the disputed right to build a post there. + +On the 15th of April, Colonel Somerset assembled his force on the Deba +Flats. This force consisted of part of the 7th Dragoon Guards, under +Lieut.-Col. Richardson [the effective strength of the 7th was now but +240]; the Cape Mounted Riflemen, commanded by Colonel Somerset; three +companies of the reserve battalion 91st, under Major Campbell; the +Grenadier company, 1st battalion, under Captain Ward; and about 150 Kat +River Burghers. Here Colonel Somerset made his dispositions; and at 7 +o'clock on the following morning, the division under Major Campbell, +with the Kat River Burghers, marched into the Amatola Valley; Major +Armstrong, with some Cape Mounted Riflemen, and Captain Sutton, with +some mounted Burghers, were detached over the hill; and, it not being +passable with artillery, Colonel Richardson was requested to co-operate +with his guns, the 7th Dragoon Guards, and a detachment of the Cape +Mounted Riflemen, under Captain Donovan. Colonel Somerset proceeded +with his party round the Amatola Mountains, in order to unite with and +support the troops under Major Armstrong and Captain Sutton. + +Major Campbell, having advanced some way into the valley, soon found +himself opposed to an immense body of Kaffirs, who opened a heavy fire +upon the troops. The ascent of the infantry up a hill clothed with +thick bush, was accomplished under desperate circumstances--thousands of +Kaffirs, secure in ambush, or assembled on the mountains around them, +shouting their war-cry of "Izapa! Izapa!"--"Come on! Come on!" On +reaching a kloof, a few Kaffirs made their appearance; but, "it being +suggested to Major Campbell that these were merely put there to divert +attention from the scrub [bush intermingled with stones] on the left, he +desired his men to keep a sharp lookout in that direction." It was well +he did so; the Kaffirs "opened a tremendous fire from that point, from +the kloof on the right, and in the rear." "I never before," says the +writer of an account from the scene of action, "experienced such +dreadful fatigue; what with the steepness of the mountain, and having to +ascend it amid a shower of balls, I was compelled to lie down twice, +screened by the thorn-trees, before I reached the top. Two men fainted +by the way, four of the 91st were killed, and two wounded. From the +number of shots fired, I am surprised half of us were not killed." + +By the time the division had reached the summit of the mountain, they +were all fairly exhausted. It was a joyful sight for them when they +found their position was discovered, and they saw the Cape Corps coming +to their assistance, with a gun, from the other side. The red-jackets +cheered the reinforcement from the hill-top, and then rested on their +arms, while the Cape Corps went to work, and soon silenced the enemy +there. + +In getting round the mountain, Colonel Somerset, after crossing a +difficult drift with a gun, discovered a large drove of cattle on the +left. Captain Sutton, with his Burghers, Captain Pipon, with a troop of +the 7th, and Captain Donovan, with some Cape Mounted Rifles, were +despatched to capture them, and succeeded in taking eighteen hundred +head. At sunset, the troops encamped for the night on the flat under +the Amatola. + +The first day's action at Burn's Hill was disastrously marked by the +death of Captain Bambrick, 7th Dragoon Guards, a fine old Waterloo +soldier, who had also served for many years in India, in the 11th +Hussars. He unhappily went too far into a dense bush, and was shot. +One or two circumstances connected with his death are worthy of notice. + +Captain Bambrick's troop formed part of a division under Major Gibsone, +7th Dragoon Guards, who had been left in charge of the baggage. During +the day, some Kaffirs came down upon the herds and oxen belonging to the +waggons, and in fighting for the cattle, mortally wounded a young boy, +named McCormick. His brother ran to his assistance; and the dying +child, seeing the other herds retreating, raised himself, and shouting, +in his death-agony, "Don't run! don't run! We'll beat them yet!" sank +back exhausted, and spoke no more. Captain Bambrick was sent in pursuit +of the Kaffirs who had killed this poor young settler; and the old +dragoon officer, reckless of the foe, seen or unseen, and accustomed to +charge wherever that foe might be, dashed into the bush at the head of +his troop, went too far, and fell in consequence by the hand of a +concealed savage. Shocking to relate, his body was cut in pieces by the +enemy, and either burned or hung about the bush. Oh "pastoral and +peaceful" people! as Missionary Society Agents have styled them. Ere +Captain Bambrick fell, he called to his men to retire, having found out, +too late, that "that was no place for cavalry." + +He must have received many wounds. His charger galloped past the troop +without its rider; its trappings and saddle were covered with blood; +while the savages bore off the mangled body of their victim, brandishing +his sword on the top of the hill as they retreated. Captain Bambrick +was forty-seven years of age, and had served his country more than +thirty years. + +As I have observed, Captain Bambrick's troop formed part of a division, +under Major Gibsone, left in charge of baggage and ammunition, while +Colonel Somerset proceeded with the main body towards the wooded kloofs +and steep ascents of the Amatola Mountains. Before proceeding in search +of the plundered cattle to a hill overlooking "Sandilla's drift," +Captain Bambrick received distinct orders from Major Gibsone "by no +means to proceed to any distance." The old soldier could not, or would +not, understand a warfare which demanded such caution, dashed onwards, +full of chivalry, utterly wasted on such a foe, and fell, as might be +expected. It may be added, that, had he not fallen when he did, the +whole troop would have become the victims of his noble but ill-timed +daring. + +Major Gibsone's dispatch states further--"About seven o'clock, just as I +had diminished the size of my camp, we were attacked by a considerable +body of Kaffirs, whom we beat off in six or seven minutes, I am sorry to +say, with the loss, of four men of the 91st killed, and four wounded." +On the 17th, Major Gibsone, in compliance with Colonel Somerset's +instructions, moved from Burn's Hill, at half-past ten a.m. From the +number of waggons (one hundred and twenty-five), and the necessity of +giving a support to the guns, Major Gibsone was only enabled to form a +front and rear baggage-guard, and could not detach any men along the +line of waggons. After proceeding about a mile, shots issued from a +kloof by the side of the road; Lieutenant Stokes, R.E., ran the gun up +to a point some three hundred yards in advance, and raked the kloof with +a shell. When half the waggons had passed, the Kaffirs made a dash upon +one of them, firing at the drivers and some officers' servants, who were +obliged to fly; then took out the oxen, and wheeled the waggon across +the river. An overpowering force then rushed down from the hills in all +directions, keeping up an incessant fire, which was returned by the 7th +Dragoon Guards and the 91st, with great spirit. The gun was also served +with much skill; but, owing to the Kaffirs' immense superiority in +numbers, Major Gibsone, to prevent his men from being cut off, was +obliged to return to Burn's Hill, where he again put the troops in +position. A short time after this, a company of the 91st, under Captain +Scott, advanced in skirmishing order, keeping up a heavy fire; but the +waggons completely blocking up the road, the troops were obliged to make +a _detour_, and, after considerable difficulty, succeeded in getting the +ammunition-waggons into a proper line, but found it quite impracticable +to save the baggage-waggons, the Kaffirs having driven away the oxen. +One of the ammunition-waggons broke down, but the ammunition was removed +to another; the troops then fought their way, inch by inch, to the +Tyumie Camp, where they were met by Colonel Somerset's division, and +where they again encamped for the night. + +Colonel Somerset, in his dispatch, dated "Block Drift, 18th of April," +describes the Kaffirs as "assembling in a very large force on the +heights above the troops, on the 17th, and, on arriving at the Tyumie +Drift, the enemy pressed upon them at every point. Lieutenant Hill, +R.A., got the gun into position, and made excellent practice into the +dense bush along the river, the enemy pressing on, and opening a severe +fire on our advance. Lieutenant Armstrong, with some Cape Mounted +Rifles, then scoured the bush in all directions; the flanking-parties of +the 91st kept up a strong fire on the enemy; and Colonel Richardson +supported the rear in the most able and gallant manner. Major Campbell +held the drift, while ammunition-waggons passed; Captain Browne's guns +taking up an admirable position, and doing great execution under a heavy +fire." + +Thus, scarcely fifteen hundred men, not all regular troops, encumbered +with a hundred and twenty-five waggons, made their way into the +fastnesses of these savages, who were many thousands in number; and +although unable to follow up the enemy, of whom they killed at least +three hundred, succeeded in saving all their ammunition, captured +eighteen hundred head of cattle, and finally fought their way to the +original ground of dispute. + +An old officer, in speaking of this affair of the "three days" in the +Amatolas, informed me that neither he, nor those in the same division +with himself, had had anything whatever to eat, from Thursday the 16th, +at daylight, until Saturday night, the 18th, when they reached Block +Drift; there, some biscuit was served out to them. My husband was not +only without food during this period, but, having lost all his baggage, +had nothing on for days after (night or day) but his shell jacket and +white trousers. His horse was slightly grazed by a ball, which touched +it between the saddle-flap and his canteen; fortunately, it must have +struck something on its way. The Kaffirs invariably aim at the +officers, believing that, in bringing down the leaders, the whole body +will be made to give way. + +The following officers were killed and wounded during these engagements; +7th Dragoon Guards--Captain Bambrick, killed; 91st--Lieutenant Cochrane +wounded three times; Cape Mounted Rifles--Captain Sandes, murdered. +Colonel Richardson and Captain Rawstorne, 91st, narrowly escaped wounds +at least, both being struck by spent balls. Colonel Somerset had just +dismounted from his charger, when the man who took it from him was shot +dead, the animal escaping. Lieutenant O'Reilly had the trigger of his +gun shot off; and Mr Bisset lost two horses not long after dismounting. + +The loss of Captain Sandes, Cape Mounted Rifles, was much deplored. +Being ordered to proceed with an express from Post Victoria to Colonel +Somerset at Block Drift, on the 18th of April, he unfortunately started +after the party, lost his way, returned to Victoria, was advised to wait +until another mounted party should be likely to proceed, but faithful to +his orders, determined on riding to Block Drift alone, which he did, and +was brutally murdered! The Kaffirs themselves acknowledged that he +fought desperately, cutting his way through two bodies of these +wretches, of whom they admit he must have killed and injured eight or +ten. The third body despatched him. So much for the Kaffir's mild +nature and generous sentiments! So much for his bravery! No man can be +brave who does not appreciate bravery in others. + +Among the slain, was afterwards discovered a soldier of the 91st, who +had probably been burned to death by the savages, as his remains were +found bound to the pole of a waggon, and horribly defaced by fire. + +Dr Eddie, of the Cape Mounted Rifles, on going back with a party to +endeavour to recover some of the Government property from the hospital +waggon, found that it had been rifled of almost everything but the jar +of blister ointment, which had been emptied of its contents--the +ointment having been scooped out by Kaffir fingers. + +It must be observed that, on the 15th of April, the very day on which +Colonel Somerset assembled his small force on the Deba Flats, for the +purpose of getting the troops into position before attacking the enemy +in the Amatola Mountains, nothing was known in Graham's Town of the +operations of the troops in the field. Sir Peregrine Maitland, the +Governor, who had arrived on the frontier a few days before, left +Graham's town for Post Victoria with only a small escort, and in total +ignorance of Colonel Somerset's proceedings, which every one knew must +be regulated by circumstances, but which every one supposed would begin +and end in a march through the ceded territory and back again "without +seeing a Kaffir." + +I forgot to mention that Colonel Hare, the Lieutenant-Governor, had +moved from Graham's Town to Fort Beaufort, before issuing his +proclamation against our savage neighbours, and on the 18th of April, +went to Post Victoria to meet Sir Peregrine Maitland. + +Colonel Hare returned to Beaufort the same evening in safety. Captain +Sandes must have been murdered within a few miles of him; but +fortunately no one crossed the path of the Lieutenant-Governor or his +escort. + +On Sunday, the 19th, some cattle were stolen from Post Victoria, in the +very face of the troops and their General. The Kaffirs were followed, +but had got into the bush with their booty before the troops could come +up with them. + +On the morning of the 18th, while General Maitland was on a +reconnoitring expedition, he and his party came suddenly upon an ambush +of Kaffirs; happily he had with him an escort of dragoons, who dashed +after these savages. Had Sir Peregrine not been so attended, he, with +his staff, would have been cut off. + +A party of the 27th went out from Victoria to clear the bush of the +Kaffirs. In the skirmish which ensued, a serjeant of the regiment being +shot in the ankle, the savages rushed upon him and beat him to death +with their knob-kiurries (war-clubs). + +After the troops had taken up their position at Block Drift, they were +joined by Sir P. Maitland, who immediately assumed the command, and +superintended the defences. + +But, while the troops were employed in the Amatola Mountains, Graham's +Town was utterly unprotected, and bodies of Kaffirs poured into the +Colony. Then began the work of devastation, plunder, and murder. Alas! +while our hearts were torn with anxiety for those dear to us in the +field, we knew ourselves to be surrounded by savages who openly +threatened to attack us! In all directions we heard the reports of +musketry. Now, a murdered waggon-driver was brought in, and now, a +Kaffir spy was shot close to the town; the townspeople of course +exaggerating the one waggon-driver to five or six, and the spy to +"thousands of Kaffirs." On the 29th of April, Colonel Somerset arrived +with his division. The sight of the troops winding down the hill +towards Graham's Town, cheered the drooping spirits of the inhabitants, +and made many hearts beat with alternate hope and fear, for we knew not +what intelligence they might bring, or what dangers they had +encountered. Little, indeed, can they, who never experienced the +horrors and anxieties of war, especially a war with savages, comprehend +the feelings of those who wait for tidings of the absent. The weary +watchings, the very dread of the arrival of expresses, bearing we know +not what tidings, the feverish restlessness to see the printed +dispatches of the day, the waiting for hours in uncertainty, and then +the regret, amidst our thankfulness at so much being done, that there +was yet so much to do. Ah! these are terrible hours. I especially +remember the reading of the first dispatch--the wife of one in command +of a division, which had not been engaged, but of which I shall have to +speak hereafter, tearing open the papers with trembling fingers, while +another and I leaned over her shoulder, and would see what she tried to +read with a faltering voice. Children looked up alarmed at they knew +not what, pausing in their play, and quite silent; while shots echoed +along the hills and through the kloofs above the town, and the sky above +and around us was lit with the fires from the devastated homesteads of +the settlers. The very sight of the thousands of cattle and sheep being +driven in at sunset by armed herds, was melancholy; and the +panic-stricken inhabitants galloped hither and thither, endangering +people's lives and wearing out their horses, causing a stir and +excitement equally useless and alarming. The appearance of the town on +one Sabbath morning was wretched beyond description. The bell for +prayers rang from our roofless church, the Independent Chapel being lent +to us as a place of worship, while the church of the established +religion was undergoing repairs. A crowd of Fingo and Hottentot +picquets were assembling in the streets, groups of people stood about +talking, and others passed on to the place of prayer with careworn +faces. At every opening, the sappers and miners were busy blockading +the streets, and parties of armed Burghers came galloping in with fresh +tidings of ruin, murder, and devastation. The return of Colonel +Somerset's division probably checked the advance of the enemy upon the +town, where the greatest fears had been entertained for the magazine, +containing the gunpowder belonging to the merchants. It must be added, +that the energies of those who were willing to join in the work of +defence had been considerably damped by a disastrous circumstance, which +had occurred during the absence of the troops in Kaffirland. + +Mr Norden, a merchant, having been appointed to the temporary command +of the Yeomanry Corps [Note 2], which, it must be remembered, there had +been but little time to organise, led his men out, on the 25th of April, +to a valley a little beyond Graham's Town, where it had been ascertained +that a number of Kaffirs were lurking. He was a dashing, enterprising +man, always ready to lead whenever a leader was wanting. On reaching a +spot commanded by a krantz, or cliff, he divided his corps into two +bodies, directing one to the right and the other to the left, with one +of which he advanced towards a thick bush. On Mr Norden approaching a +mass of rock, which served as an ambush for one of the savages, he was +shot through the head, and fell dead. The wretch who shot him was +immediately brought down by the musket of one of the Yeomanry; but +others rushed on the murdered man, and dragged away the body. The +Yeomanry Corps being thus divided, the numbers of the foe unknown, and +the sun just setting, it was deemed imprudent to attempt the capture of +Mr Norden's remains from the Kaffirs at that moment. The following +day, the body was observed placed in a conspicuous position on the +krantz, probably as a decoy; and on Monday, the 27th, a large body of +the inhabitants, a few of the Cape Corps, and a remnant of the 90th--in +all amounting to about 200 men--headed by Colonel Johnstone, 27th +Regiment, Commandant of the town, went out, and brought back the mangled +body of the brave man whose life had been so miserably sacrificed. The +bereaved family of Mr Norden must ever be looked on by the people of +Graham's Town with feelings of deep and grateful interest. + +From the windows, we had seen the patriot winding up the hills; all eyes +had followed him with interest; crowds assembled in the restless +streets, to watch his progress; little thought they of the miserable +result, or of the manner of his return,--dead, mutilated; stretched on a +gun-carriage, with a cloak flung over him for a pall! That night, the +air above us was thick with smoke, rising from the burning grass which +the enemy had fired to destroy the pasturage for the cattle. + +The providing the wives and children of officers with safe quarters was +one of the first acts of the Lieutenant-Governor; and, although we were +never under the apprehension of a serious attack on the barracks in +which we were domiciled, it is pretty certain that, but for the +preparations for defence, the outskirts of the town would have been +destroyed. After the affairs at Block Drift, the Gaikas returned to the +deep recesses of the Amatolas, and there informed their people that they +had killed all the white men. The cry of "Victory!" rang through +Kaffirland; the loss of our waggons, and the sight of the savages +returning with their spoil, shouting their wild song of triumph, and +bearing their trophies along with them, roused the tribes who had +promised to "sit still;" and straightway the colony swarmed with these +ferocious barbarians. + +Sir Peregrine Maitland now armed an immense force [Note 3]. The defeat +of the Kaffirs in the Amatolas, inspired us with hope, and for a while, +daunted the enemy; but the Kaffirs were like vermin in the land,--as +fast as they were hunted out of one corner, they rose up in another. + + + +PART TWO, CHAPTER SIX. + +STATE OF GRAHAM'S TOWN. + +Everything in Africa is in extremes. The air is at one moment perfectly +calm, the next wild with terrific storms. The sky so sweetly serene at +noon, before half an hour passes is often darkened by clouds which +shroud the land as with a pall. For months, the long droughts parch the +earth, the rivers may be forded on foot, the flocks and herds pant for +refreshing waters and green herbage. Suddenly, "a cloud no bigger than +a man's hand" appears on the horizon, and lo! the elements rage and +swell, thunder booms upon the air, darkness covers the land, the arrows +of the Almighty dart from the angry heavens, striking death and terror +wheresoever they fall. From the far desert an overpowering torrent of +sand comes sweeping on, obscuring the air, and making its way into your +very house, in such profusion that you may trace characters in its +dry-depths on the window-sill. The skies open, the floods descend, the +rivers burst their bounds, trees are uprooted from the saturated earth, +and through the roof of your dwelling the rain beats heavily, the walls +crack, the plaster falls, the beams that support the thatch groan and +creak with "melancholy moan," the voices of angry spirits seem to howl +and shout around you, the poor birds on frightened wing wheel past your +windows, the cattle disturb you with their lowing, the dogs howl, and +the unearthly tones of the Kaffir or Fingo herdsman's song are no +agreeable addition to the wild scene stirring before you. The tempest, +however, subsides as suddenly as it arose, the voices of the +storm-spirits die away in the distance over the mountain-tops, the dark +pall of clouds is rent by a Mighty Hand, the swollen rivers rush on, +bearing evidences of devastation, but subsiding at last into a more +measured course; the sun lights up the valleys and the hill-sides, the +air is clearer, the sky brighter than ever; and, but for the history of +devastation and oftentimes of death, and the knowledge that for weeks +the country will be subject to these violent convulsions of nature, the +terrors of the tempest would soon be forgotten. + +Such is the climate of South Africa. Lovely indeed it is for part of +the year; for the rest experience is necessary to teach you whether it +be agreeable or not. At one time of the day, I have known the +thermometer 120 degrees; at sunset, it has been so cold that a fire has +been necessary; nay, I have known it 92 degrees in a room with the air +kept out at noon, and at six I have wanted a shawl, or cloak, during my +walk. In the morning, you are scorched and blistered by the hot wind, +while the vegetation is withering under your feet, and at night you must +wrap yourself well up, and put your feet in shoes "impervious to the +dew," and yet experience shows that it is perfectly healthy. [Note 1.] + +On the 25th of March we received a report in Graham's Town, that the +Kaffirs were pouring into the colony. It was afterwards ascertained +that the Kaffirs were only awaiting our threatened blow as the signal +for their work of devastation. They were well aware of all our +movements, the numerical strength of our army, and the comparative +security into which the farmers had been lulled by Sandilla's message, +or rather by the acceptance of that message; and we soon received +evidence of the Kaffir's proximity to Graham's Town, by constant +robberies of cattle, and skirmishes between themselves and the Fingo and +Hottentot herds. + +The 22nd of April was the first day of serious inconvenience to +ourselves. Three of us, our husbands being with their divisions at +different stations, were assembled with our children, as was our custom, +to spend the evening together. How often had we paced the verandah, +anxiously watching the lurid sky, red with the fires of devastation, and +listening to the continued and heavy volleys of musketry between the +herds and savages on the hills above us! We never permitted ourselves +to think of an attack on the town; and, as the Kaffirs seldom risk their +lives or spend their powder without a chance of plunder in return, we +considered our lives safe, since the cattle could be swept away from the +outskirts without venturing into the town. On the night of the 22nd, +however, the frightened servants rushed into the sitting-room, +exclaiming that the Kaffirs were sweeping down the hills in all +directions; and that, as the house was roofed with shingles, it was +likely it would be fired by the brand of the savages. + +Behold us, then, preparing for our pilgrimage across the open, +undefended square of the Drostdy ground [Note 2]. But that we were full +of anxieties for our husbands in the field, we should have laughed in +the very face of apparent danger. Ill defended as the town was, we +could not believe that the Kaffirs could have passed the picquets on the +hills unnoticed, and accustomed to exaggerated reports, the cry of +"Kaffirs!" was no longer so alarming to us personally as it might have +been had we heard it before our terrors for the absent had deadened our +thoughts of self. The cry was raised, however, and we were warned to +seek the shelter of the new barracks, built of stone, and roofed with +zinc. + +The lady of the house roused one sleeping child from its bed, and +dressed it hastily, but with perfect calmness, while her boy danced +about and tumbled head over heels with delight at the prospect of "such +fun!" The young ladies of the party, my own girl among them, collected +what they considered most valuable, their books, work-boxes, trinkets, a +guitar, a doll in a polka dress, a monkey, and their dogs; and the wife +of one in command at Fort Peddie thrust money, jewels, and papers into a +box, which she carried under her arm. Ere we were ready for the _trek_, +the servants appeared with _their_ "valuables," the hoards and savings +of many years. Oh, the confusion of tongues on that night, as we passed +through the Square! Exclamations in Dutch, Irish, Fingo, broad Scotch, +and provincial English, assailed us on all sides; children cried and +laughed alternately, women screamed, Hottentots danced, and sang, and +swore, the oxen attached to the waggons which had accompanied the 90th +uttered frightful roars, and muskets were going off in all quarters of +the town. Onwards we sped; there was sufficient light to see the tents +of the 90th, who had only arrived the day before, standing up in regular +order. We made direct for the line between the tents, when lo! they +vanished; they were struck to the ground as if by magic, and lay as flat +as linen on a bleaching-green. The young girls could not help laughing +as they stumbled over the tent-pegs. + +We reached the barrack-rooms appropriated to my use. If the air was +"full of noises," much more so was the house. In one room were officers +loading pistols as merrily as if they were going pigeon-shooting; in the +kitchens, the men-servants were unslinging the loaded muskets from the +wall; and up and down the passage stalked dragoon soldiers, fully +accoutred, and ready for the saddle at a moment's notice, their horses +standing in the yard, neighing with impatience; while we ladies, girls, +and children, with three or four officers, sat waiting the result of the +hubbub with the doors open; and the townspeople occasionally rushing in +with affrighted faces. Had the Kaffirs been at all aware of their own +strength, and our defenceless state, they might, with very little loss +on their side, have burned and pillaged the town, murdered many of the +inhabitants, and possessed themselves of the magazine. We had not two +hundred soldiers, and most of these were of the 20th Regiment, who had +just arrived from a ten years' sojourn in Ceylon, and were therefore +little fitted for active service. That the enemy meditated an attack, +there is no doubt; but the reports of their advance proved exaggerated, +and at midnight it was ascertained that they had swept off what cattle +they could from the outskirts, and set fire to the neighbouring farms. +We had very certain testimony of this from the windows, for the glare of +these burning homesteads of the industrious settlers illumined the sky, +and the hills all round were bright with wreaths of flame from the bush. + +We were all too much excited to obtain much repose, and at daylight the +next morning the warning bugles of the 90th gave note of preparation for +their departure, with part of the 91st, for Fort Beaufort, with supplies +and ammunition. Great doubts were entertained as to whether this long +train of waggons, with its slender guard, would be permitted to pass +unmolested through the Ecca Valley, twelve miles from Graham's Town, the +road winding along the edge of a precipice, and being commanded by a +steep krantz. From this narrow road, where only one waggon at a time +can pass with safety, you look down on a bush so dense that hundreds of +savages might be concealed there; and, on the opposite side, tremendous +mountains, fit haunts for the savage, or the wild beast, slope down, +overshadowing the valley with awful gloom; while the mocking echoes give +back the sharp slash of the waggoner's whip, or the crack of the +traveller's rifle, with a strange precision. + +Every precaution was taken to ensure a safe passage through this defile, +and a slow match was so placed in the ammunition-waggon that, had the +Kaffirs poured suddenly upon the party in such numbers as to render it +impossible to save all the waggons, the ammunition was to be left in +their hands as an instrument of destruction. Happily, the party met +with no obstruction; but all the day long we were listening in +expectation of the explosion in the Ecca. Meanwhile, farms still blazed +around us, the hills were obscured by smoke, and, as night approached, +fresh rumours arose of "Kaffirs close to the town." About ten o'clock, +we were again warned of danger; our first notice was the blast of the +bugle sounding the "alarm" close to our windows. Fatigued with the +watching and excitement of the previous night, we had retired early to +rest. We were up in an instant. Lucifers were at a premium that night, +I am sure: great was the smell of brimstone--fit atmosphere for the +expected foe. Still, we had become too much accustomed to the cry of +"Kaffirs!" to feel great alarm; and, to say truth, there was something +in being within stone walls, and under a roof on which the brand could +take no effect. + +Hark!--the gun booms from the battery above. What a volume of sound +rolls through the heavy air! Another blast from the bugle, taken up and +echoed back by others! Another sound of cannon from a piece of +artillery, within three hundred yards of us! How the windows rattle!-- +how the roof shivers! We are all up and astir--the children laugh, and +cry, and look bewildered--and the monkey hides whatever is most wanted-- +and the doors fly open, and there are--not Kaffirs--only terrified women +and children seeking refuge. + +I was in some alarm, from the dread of muskets going off in the hands of +the people unaccustomed to the use of them; but had less fear of Kaffirs +than on the previous night, as we had no cattle in the Drostdy Square, +and it is for that booty alone that they will risk life recklessly; so +some of us went up stairs, and sat between the windows, and the servants +placed mattresses against the shutters below. + +Then there was a gathering together of all the fighting men that could +be collected, and a sorry show they made in the way of numbers. A heavy +fire was kept up along the hills, and still the farms and bush blazed +on; but no Kaffirs entered the town, so we retired a little after +midnight, the younger members of the party deeply regretting that we had +been alarmed for nothing. No Kaffirs! What a pity after such a +commotion! In such stirring times, the young, though naturally +kind-hearted, have little thought for the ruined settler, the miserable +widow, the motherless parents, the devastated land. + +Some cattle had been fought for, and captured by the Fingoes on the +Bathurst road, about two miles from Graham's Town. Hence the alarm! + +The murder of Mr Norden, which I have before alluded to, was the next +event of painful importance, and the inhabitants of the town maintained +a vigilant and defensive position until the arrival of Colonel +Somerset's division, on the 29th. Colonel Somerset's presence, with his +serviceable band, inspired the settlers of Lower Albany with confidence, +and he remained scarcely two days for rest and refreshment of men and +horses, ere he again started for the bush. He had made such +arrangements at Beaufort as had enabled him to move without waggons, +those heavy incumbrances to troops in South Africa, and wisely diverging +from the Ecca pass, had completely eluded the Kaffirs. He again +prepared to start, equally unencumbered, to clear the eastern side of +the heathen marauders. Immense mischief had been already dome, but +there were yet many settlers whose lives and property awaited succour, +and Colonel Somerset led his division to a point where they could work +at once, and with the best effect. The force consisted of 150 of the +Cape Corps, a detachment of the 7th Dragoon Guards, parties of the +Cradock and Albany Burghers, under their respective commandants, and two +light field-pieces, under Captain Browne and Lieutenant Gregory, R.A., +making altogether a force off 800 men. The Cape Corps cheered heartily +as they defiled through Graham's Town, taking the road to Woest's Hill, +it being intended to occupy the old position of Major Frazer, Cape +Regiment, at Lombard's post, so celebrated in Kaffir warfare, and by +which great part of the eastern division of the colony might be +protected. + +Volumes might be filled were I to detail half the miseries to which the +colonists had been subjected during the operations of the troops in +Kaffirland. None but those who have experienced it, can have an idea of +the nature of the foe to which they were exposed. + +The Kaffir, at the first onset, is perhaps less ferocious than cunning, +and more intent on serving his own interests by theft than on taking +life from the mere spirit of cruelty; but once roused, he is like the +wild beast after the taste of blood, and loses all the best attributes +of humanity. The movement of a body of these savages through the land +may be likened to a "rushing and a mighty wind." On, on they sweep! +like a blast; filling the air with a strange _whirr_--reminding me, on a +grand scale, of a flight of locusts. An officer of rank, during the +Kaffir war of 1835, was riding with a body of troops across the country, +when suddenly his attention was arrested by a cloud of dust; then a dark +silent mass appeared, and, lo! a multitude of beings, more resembling +demons than men, rushed past. There were no noises, no sound of +footsteps, nothing but the shiver of the assegais, which gleamed as they +dashed onwards. The party of soldiery was too small to render an +advance prudent, and though it is not improbable the Kaffirs observed +the detachment of troops, from which they were distant scarcely half a +mile, they did not stop on their way. They were bent on some purpose, +and would not turn aside from it. + +The same officer described to me a scene which had struck him +particularly when, on an expedition far up the country, many years ago. +His regiment was bivouacked along the ridge of a chain of hills during +the night. At dawn, he rose to reconnoitre, and, looking below, beheld, +as he imagined, an immense herd of cattle. As the sun advanced, +lighting up the valley, a solitary figure stepped out from the supposed +herd, and springing on an ant-heap, waved an assegai, and probably +spoke, though nothing could be heard. Each shield of bullock's hide +then gave up its armed warrior, who had been sleeping beneath its +shelter; the wild chant of the Fingoes filled the valley with strange +harmony; and, in a few minutes a phalanx was formed, in readiness for +the approach of the troops, to whom these Fingoes were attached as +allies. They have well repaid the white man's good will. + +Although the Fingoes were the slaves of the Kaffirs till Sir Benjamin +D'Urban, the good, the true, the generous, and the brave, released them +from their bondage; and, although the Kaffirs to this day denominate +them their "dogs," the Fingoes are in many respects their superiors; and +during this war we had ample opportunity of judging of their patience, +bravery, and fidelity. The mode of warfare of these two tribes, for +they cannot be considered distinct nations, is in some respects +different. The Kaffir goes forth to battle besmeared with red clay, +simply arrayed with his kaross, armed with his musket and assegai, and +accoutred with his pouch and sack, for ammunition, plunder, and +provisions. + +The appearance of a body of Fingoes, if less terrific, is more imposing. +Their heads are ornamented with jackals' tails, ostrich plumes, beads, +wolves' teeth, etc. Across their shoulders is flung a skin, and around +their waist is girt a kilt of monkeys' tails. The chief, as among the +Kaffirs, wears a tiger-skin kaross, and their rain-makers, who are at +once wizards, doctors, and councillors, are most fearfully grotesque in +their costume. + +The Fingoes also bear enormous shields, which they use with great +dexterity, for defence and excitement, sometimes beating time on them as +on a drum; they are also much more ready to meet an enemy on an open +plain than the Kaffirs. The latter on seeing an enemy, raise a hideous +yell of defiance, and utter the most frightful sounds in imitation of +lions, tigers, jackals, wolves, snakes, etc, by way of intimidating +their assailants, before the attack commences. A Kaffir meditating a +death-blow with his assegai is a terrific object. Now, he advances, his +eyes starting from their sockets, his brilliant teeth glittering between +his huge lips, which emit these horrible imitations, his head thrown +back, his whole body writhing and trembling in the excitement of his +anxiety to take a steady aim, his arm upraised, and his spear poised. +The very sight of him is sufficient to inspire the bravest with dread, +for such encounters cannot be considered as fair fights between man and +man. The Kaffirs, too, have all the cunning of the wild beast, and we +may be thankful in having the Fingoes as our allies in tiny contest with +them; for, while they are sufficiently civilised and instructed to +co-operate with our troops, they are of infinite use in herding cattle +and defending passes. They will lie down on the watch for hours, and +imitate the cries of animals to attract the attention of the Kaffirs, +who find themselves encountered by creatures of their own mould, instead +of the wolf, or the jackal, they expected. Sometimes, on the other +hand, the Kaffirs will encircle the Fingoes, and dance round them +yelling frightfully; now roaring like a lion, now hissing like a +serpent; but it is seldom that the Kaffirs conquer the Fingoes, unless +the latter are inferior in numbers. + +I prefer citing Colonel Somerset's despatch to the Civil Commissioner of +Albany, to giving any account of my own of the sufferings of the +colonists at this period. My own detail could only be gathered from +hearsay evidence, and in this I might be misled. The dispatch no one +can dispute; it is as follows-- + +McLuckie's Farm, Kariega Kiaa, 4th May, 1846. + +"Sir, + +"Having moved with the troops under my orders to this part of Albany on +the 1st instant, in order to afford protection to the inhabitants +against the Kaffir tribes, and knowing your anxiety, as well as that of +the public, for their welfare, I feel it necessary to acquaint you that +I arrived here about 7 o'clock, p.m., on the 1st, having observed on my +route that the whole of the Kowie Bush was thickly infested with +Kaffirs. I moved a patrol early in the morning of the 2nd to Mr Dell's +farm on the Kasonga, where I found several families collected in a great +state of anxiety, the Kaffirs having carried off their cattle, amounting +to about 2,000 head, and the people being exhausted with fatigue and +watching. Learning that the people at Theopolis were in great distress +for ammunition, I communicated with that station from Mr Dell's. In a +short time the minister, Mr Taylor, came over to me, saying that his +station had been attacked several nights successively, and his people +were entirely without ammunition, and quite exhausted, and that unless I +could assist him that night, they had no hope, and that there were five +hundred persons who must fall a sacrifice to the Kaffirs, who had stated +they would attack them again that night. I detached a Serjeant and +twelve men of the Cape Mounted Rifles with Mr Taylor, and supplied him +with a hundred rounds of ammunition as an immediate help. I also left +at Mr Dell's a party of twelve Burghers, as a reinforcement for the +night. Having thus afforded some relief to these suffering people, I +returned home, and at nightfall I sent another detachment of twenty men, +Cape Mounted Rifles, under Ensign Harvey, with a further supply of +ammunition, and thus secured these people for the night. + +"At daybreak the next morning, I was fortunate enough to fall in with a +large body of Kaffirs, who appeared to have established themselves in +the Kowie Bush. I attacked them with the troops, and punished them +severely, which I hope will keep them quiet for a day or two. I then +proceeded to Theopolis, and, having communicated with that station, I +arranged with the missionaries to bring them all here this day, and hope +to forward their families to Graham's Town at an early hour to-morrow +morning, together with some other families who are here in a state of +destitution, the whole of their houses, property, and all they +possessed, having been set on fire by the Kaffirs as soon as they saw +the troops advancing. These latter people I beg to recommend to the +Government to be put on rations, and have some lodging allotted to them. + +"The troops under my command having been detached by the +Lieutenant-Governor for the protection of this part of the Colony, have +been, under Providence, the means of saving the valuable lives of many +helpless families. Had they arrived forty-eight hours later, all must +have fallen a sacrifice to these ruthless savages, who were only waiting +to complete the work of destruction by murdering the females and +children, [Note 3], to establish themselves in their houses. Having +been defeated in this by the opportune arrival of the troops, they set +fire to the buildings and hay-stacks, and all their property. From Mr +McLuckie's 1,800 head of cattle have been carried off, from Mr Dell's +about 2,000, from Theopolis 1,400, besides the total destruction of +almost all their hay-crops. + +"It now only remains for me to express my admiration of the gallant +stand that has been made by the inhabitants here for the protection of +their families. Although surrounded by hundreds of the savage enemy, +they have stood forward like men; and, although seeing their homesteads +in flames, and all at the mercy of these barbarians, have never +flinched, but have, even with cheerful countenances, supported their +characters as men and Britons in defence of all most dear to them; and, +if they had not done so, the assistance the troops have been able to +afford would have come too late. I am also indebted to Messrs. Fuller +and Ferreira, of Graham's Town, for their assistance in patrolling and +in escorting the missionaries and their families. There is yet much to +be done; several families on the right bank of the Kowie yet require +protection, hundreds of Kaffirs being in the Kowie Bush for a distance +of twenty miles; but I cannot hold out any immediate hope that I can +cross over into the Bathurst district, either to afford protection, or +to intercept the cattle that the Kaffirs are driving into Kaffirland. +Probably, the Lieutenant-Governor will see fit to detach the cavalry +from Fort Peddie to that district. + +"I request that you will communicate the contents of this dispatch to +His Honour the Lieutenant-Governor, as I am so pressed for time that I +cannot forward one to him to-day. + +"I have, etc, + +"H. Somerset, Colonel, + +"Commanding Field-Forces. + +"To the Civil Commander of Albany, + +"Graham's Town." + +From McLuckie's, Colonel Somerset proceeded, with a force of about sixty +men, on the morning of the 5th of May, to the mouth of the Kowie, to +render assistance to Mr Cock, an individual to whom the commercial +interests of the Colony are much indebted for his success in opening the +mouth of that river. Here, a large drove of cattle were discovered in +the hands of the enemy as the detachment approached, and only one +hundred and twenty head could be recaptured, as the Kaffirs took shelter +in the bush, with but slight loss to themselves. On reaching the +dwelling-house overlooking the river, it was ascertained that from four +to five hundred Kaffirs, mostly armed with firelocks, had rushed upon +the cattle as they were going to water, drove off the guard, and +captured the herd. The little garrison kept up a spirited fire on the +enemy, a small cannon on the building being well served, and doing good +execution. + +The following morning, another engagement took place near McLuckie's, +the troops following the Kaffirs into a Kloof where they had taken +shelter. Here the enemy made a desperate stand, as they will do when +driven to fight for their lives, and it was not until a field-piece was +brought to play upon the position, that they were completely routed. +The Kaffirs dragged off many of their dead and wounded, it being +invariably their object to conceal the loss they sustain, but it is +supposed that nearly fifty were killed; while on our side four men were +wounded, three dangerously. In this encounter, some of these savages +concealed themselves in wolf-holes, firing from their hiding-places. + +Colonel Somerset's next care was to secure all the oat-hay he could, +amounting to 500,000 lbs. In the meantime, two large bodies of the +enemy were in the immediate front of the troops, whose ammunition was +running short. This, however, was speedily and safely conveyed to them. + +It must not be forgotten, that where the troops could not render +assistance to the farmers, the latter in many instances defended their +homesteads with a gallantry equal to those mentioned by Colonel +Somerset. Frequently, a mere handful of white men followed the enemy +into the most frightful kloofs and passes, rescuing the cattle and +cutting off the retreat of the savages across the drifts, or through the +tangled bush, while their homes, containing their terrified families, +were left to the protection of two or three individuals, the women +assisting them in loading muskets, some bearing a brace of pistols at +their sides, ready to use them if necessary, and mere boys playing their +part right well, through the loop-holes, on any stray Kaffirs +approaching the cattle-kraals. + +Meanwhile the outposts, commanding the drifts leading from the colony +into Kaffirland, were so weakly manned, from the want of a sufficient +military force on the frontier [Note 4], that the Kaffirs passed beyond +the range of the guns, but clearly in sight, driving flocks of sheep and +cattle in thousands before them. At Block Drift, they brought their +plunder to a sunny slope, and shouted in derision their usual cry of +"Izapa!" "Come on!" They exchanged shots with the fort, and drove off +a number of "slaughter cattle." Had Major Campbell (of the 91st) +permitted a sufficient number of men to leave the defences for the +purpose of re-capturing the animals, there would have been a grand rush +from the reserve of the enemy, who were concealed in the neighbouring +kloofs and villages. + +Almost all the outposts were similarly assailed, and all were well +defended by the military. A general order was issued, in which +Lieutenants Cole, Dixon, Metcalf, and Mill, and Ensign Thom, 91st +Regiment, and Lieutenant Bourchier, R.E., were commended for the able +stand they had made against the enemy. + +His Excellency Sir Peregrine Maitland again took up his quarters at +Graham's Town, on the 9th of May. One of his first arrangements was to +appoint Major Armstrong, Cape Mounted Rifles, to the command of the +district to Bathurst, with a view to protect the colonists there, and +enable them to recommence the cultivation of that beautiful and fertile +locality. Major Armstrong is an officer of long standing and great +experience in the Colony, and fully worthy of the trust reposed in him. +The inhabitants of Bathurst, whose only place of refuge was the church, +hailed the arrival of Major Armstrong and his force with great joy and +satisfaction. + +Fort Peddie, a large military station under the command of +Lieutenant-Colonel Lindsay, 91st Regiment, had in the meantime become +the scene of Kaffir warfare. The I'Slambie tribes in its neighbourhood +had professed to remain neutral, until they found the Gaikas were +enriching themselves with the plunder of the Colony. These very +I'Slambie and Congo tribes received the thanks of Government with +praises and presents of money only two years before, in consideration of +their peaceful dispositions towards us. The Gaikas may be considered a +more worthy foe than these treacherous wretches paid and petted by us. +The Gaikas have ever professed an utter abhorrence of the white man; +and, although Sandilla, their chief, has occasionally been coaxed or +frightened into sending to our authorities persuasive, humble, and +pathetic messages, he has frequently retracted them, or followed them up +by some daring acts of violence or aggression. + +Colonel Lindsay having received various threats from the I'Slambie +Chiefs, that they were coming with their warriors to attack his post, +kept a look-out for the approach of the enemy. Several of these chiefs +had, on the faith of their promises of neutrality, been received by the +English at Fort Peddie with cordiality, especially Pato and Nonnebe, the +latter a female descendant of General Campbell, who with his family was +wrecked in the last century off the east coast of Africa, in the +"Grosvenor" East Indiaman. Nonnebe's mother was the daughter of Miss +Campbell, one of the General's unhappy daughters, who had been seized +and retained by a Kaffir chief as his "great wife." + +On the 1st of May, the war-cry of the enemy sounded in the direction of +the Beka Missionary Station, while the 7th Dragoon Guards were mustering +on the green at Fort Peddie. From the jaded state of the horses, owing +to a hurried march the day before, some delay took place in the movement +of the troops, but the force under Sir Harry Darell, which had been +stationed at Peddie for some time, was saddled up, and a gun, under +Lieutenant Hill, R.A., was ordered to proceed immediately. Soon after, +the rest of the 7th, under Lieut.-Col. Richardson, and a party of the +Cape Corps under Captain Donovan, started to meet the enemy, fifty of +the 91st preceding them. The Kaffirs, on their approach, burnt the +mission buildings and retired into the bush, where they were safe from +any present attack, nor would they leave it, though a feint hurried +movement in retiring was made. + +In less than a month afterwards, the same _ruse_ was practised by Major +Yarborough, 91st Regiment, when in command of a small body of infantry +and a troop of dragoons, and with success. In this rencontre, a Kaffir +Chief was severely wounded. As he fell, his people surrounded him, and, +raising him up to bear him from the field, uttered the most dismal howls +and lamentations. + +The cries of the women for the loss of their relations are mournful in +the extreme, and at night the wailings of these unhappy heathens fill +the air with a melancholy sound, while not far from them, the victorious +warriors chant their wild war-song, and dance their savage dance in +demoniac glee around the blazing watch-fires. + +On Friday, the 8th of May, Colonel Richardson, who was ordered to +Bathurst, via Trumpeter's Post, to co-operate with Colonel Somerset in +the protection of Lower Albany, had a rencontre with the enemy on his +march through Trumpeter's Drift, one of those frightful passes formed by +nature for the lurking-place of the savage, or the wild beast. I know +the spot well: no place could be more favourable for the murderous +operations of the Kaffirs, or less suited to the movements of British +cavalry. On reaching the spot where the missionary, Schula, was +murdered the year before, Colonel Richardson found Captain Schonswar, +7th, who had the charge of the advance guard of waggons, engaged with +the enemy, the waggons being drawn up. The difficulty of proceeding +down a steep declivity commanded by a dense kloof, and so bushy that the +waggons could only pass in single file, was represented to Colonel +Richardson. His reply was, that he was "ordered to Trumpeter's", and he +immediately directed the waggons to advance; but, from the incessant +fire kept up by the enemy from the bush on each side of the defile, and +finding his men falling rapidly, he ordered them to dismount, _each man +of the centre file taking charge of three horses_, whilst the rest were +extended in skirmishing order. Thus, one-third of the force was +rendered inefficient by the necessary arrangement for guarding the +horses. "In this manner, they had to fight their way through the bush, +for the distance of about six miles, down to the river, and up the hill +on the other side, the whole time exposed to the fire of the enemy, who +were generally concealed in the bush. In some places, they attempted to +stop the passage of the troops by rushing into the road in front, when +the dragoons were forced to clear their way through them. Thirty-seven +dead bodies of Kaffirs were counted by the officers as they passed along +the road. The Kaffirs approached within five yards to fire, and dropped +down in the bush the moment they had discharged their guns." + +One made a dash at Mr Butler, 7th, and the latter, without having time +to raise his rifle to his shoulder, shot the savage dead when close upon +him. + +The troops were hotly engaged in this way from nine till twelve o'clock; +the object was the capture of the ammunition-waggon, and the enemy +shouted aloud they would have it either at that drift or the next. In +this affair several of the dragoons were wounded--two severely--and one +artilleryman. + +While engaged, a party was despatched for a fresh supply of ammunition, +which was brought from the waggons by the men under a heavy fire from +the enemy. + +Colonel Richardson, being short of ammunition, instead of proceeding to +Bathurst, brought his own report of the affair to His Excellency Sir +Peregrine Maitland, who had now assumed the command of the forces on the +frontier in person. + +The pressure of the times hastened the gathering of fresh forces of +various descriptions from all parts of the Colony; every district, from +Cape Town upwards, gave forth its burghers, and, among other welcome +arrivals, were six guns escorted by a body of sailors, marines, and the +remainder of the 27th. + +The cavalcade of guns guarded by sailors, presented a singular +appearance, marching down the hill into Graham's Town. No steady tread +of soldiers' measured paces, no shapely column, no waving plumes, though +the marines, in their plain dress, more adapted for work than show, +enlivened the group of brave tars as they entered the Drostdy Square. +The sailors tramped onwards with their usual merry, unconcerned air, in +their coarse blue clothing and straw hats, but they looked well fitted +for their work, as they moved forwards concentrated round the guns. As +I stood watching the cavalcade, I mused proudly on the might and majesty +of England, and these proud emotions stirred my heart still deeper as +the men fell back from their guns, and the marines drew up in a steady +line before the brave old General--the British hero--the kind Governor-- +but, better than all, the _good man_! + +On the 22nd of May, our troops and colonists sustained a severe loss by +the capture and partial destruction of forty-one waggons in the +frightful pass where Colonel Richardson's affray with the Kaffirs took +place. The loss to the public, as well as to private individuals, was +so severe, as to involve the officer in command, Captain Colin Campbell, +91st Regiment, in a court-martial, which sentenced him to be cashiered; +but on a recommendation to mercy from the court, he was permitted to +return to his duty, "with such an admonition as the Commander-in-chief +thought fit to give him." The Duke of Wellington's opinion on the case +wound up with this characteristic and caustic remark: "It does not +appear that Captain Colin Campbell did anything to show his capacity for +the command in which he was engaged." + +On this occasion, Lieutenant Dixon, 91st Regiment, who had been ordered +to assist in escorting the waggons a certain distance, till the other +escort was _met_, nobly volunteered proceeding farther, and led the +advance; nor did he retire till his ammunition was expended. On +reaching the rear, he found the commanding officer of the party +retreating, by the advice of some civilians, who considered the defile +impassable for so many waggons, under such a fire. Lieutenant Dixon's +coolness, courage, and energy, in not only leading the men, but +literally "putting his shoulder to the wheel" of a waggon, to clear the +line, were spoken of by all as worthy of the highest praise. His horse, +and that of Ensign Aitchison, were shot under their riders. Surgeon +Hadaway's horse also received an assegai wound, and was killed after he +had dismounted from it. + +On the 25th of May, Colonels Somerset and Richardson's divisions, which +had both been employed in patrolling the country, returned to Graham's +Town. + +The 28th was appointed as a day of prayer throughout the Colony. The +churches were crowded, and the mourning garments of those whose friends +had fallen by the hands of the savage, presented a sad memorial of the +times. Strangely contrasted on this day were the contending parties, +the white man and the Kaffir. The former on this occasion lifted up his +voice for help from Heaven, while the heathen, armed with brand and +assegai, stalked wildly through the land; and while good men were +calling upon God to assist them in their righteous cause, the foe, in a +body of nine thousand strong, assembled on the open plains before Fort +Peddie, threatening to "trample it to dust." + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + +Note 1. By reference to Colonel Tulloch's official Reports on +Invaliding and Mortality in the Army it will be seen that the rate of +sickness and death among the troops at the Cape is less than in England. + +Note 2. The Drostdy barracks occupy the site of the Landros, or Dutch +magistrate's house, hence the name. + +Note 3. It has been remarked as a grand trait in the Kaffir character, +that they will never injure a woman. Their policy leads them to imitate +ours in this respect with regard to _white women_, but, among their +marauding parties, like those described in Colonel Somerset's dispatch, +even women and children of our nation have fallen a prey to the assegai. +Their politic generosity _never_ applies to any but _white_ people; +they will torture, burn, and impale the unhappy Fingoes who fall into +their hands, without regard to age or sex. + +Note 4. It was found necessary to abandon and burn Post Victoria early +in May. This post, the establishment of which had so highly incensed +the Gaikas, was reduced to ashes in consequence of the occupation by the +British troops of Block Drift, distant about nine miles from it, and +nearer Sandilla's territory. + + + +PART TWO, CHAPTER SEVEN. + +ACTION WITH THE KAFFIRS--FLAG OF TRUCE FROM THE ENEMY. + +The chief, Umki, who had been received under the protection of the +English, at Fort Peddie, had frequently warned them of projected attacks +by his brother chiefs, but as frequently, when these warnings were +given, and the troops kept on the alert within the range of the post, +parties with waggons, or expresses, were arrested in their progress in +some other direction. Umki was more than once suspected of raising +false reports at Fort Peddie, with a view to keep the troops at home. +His words, however, were verified on the 28th of May, 1846, when the +I'Slambie and Congo warriors had assembled, in a body of nine thousand, +on the plains below the eminence on which the garrison and other +buildings stand. On the previous day, some spies had brought Colonel +Lindsay information that the Kaffirs were in the neighbourhood, in +straggling parties. At this intelligence, Colonel Lindsay ordered out +Sir Harry Darell's troop of the 7th Dragoon Guards, fourteen of the Cape +Mounted Riflemen, and a light 6-pounder, to patrol the hills and protect +the cattle. An hour afterwards, on hearing the gun at work about two +miles off, a hundred infantry were sent out, under the command of Major +Yarborough, to support the gun and cavalry. This party met the gun +retiring disabled, a wheeler being shot. The cavalry were found in +extended order, engaged with the enemy near a dense bush. The infantry +advanced in extended order, firing. It was on this occasion that Major +Yarborough, ordered them to feign a retreat, as I have already +mentioned, in order to draw the enemy into an open space; this _ruse_ +succeeded, and Sir Harry Darell, who had retired behind the infantry and +closed, had an opportunity of charging with his troop, and sabred +fifteen or twenty before they could get into the bush. Then the +infantry advanced, and again feigned to retire, and the enemy came out a +little way, keeping up a brisk fire, though at a long range. The 91st +then halted, and ceased firing, waiting for the enemy to come on; but +they did not do so, and, night advancing, the troops retired to +quarters; Sir Harry Darell, and Mr Gore, 7th, returned with their hands +imbued in Kaffir blood, and their swords bent and broken. The number of +the enemy was estimated at eight hundred, or a thousand. More than +forty were killed and wounded in the skirmish and charge, besides those +who fell by the shells thrown into the kloof before the infantry came +up. The casualties on our side were slight. The troop Serjeant-Major +of the 7th was wounded, and the charger Sir Harry rode; some other +horses were also killed and wounded. The skirmishing of the enemy was +perfect, hiding themselves, and advancing and retiring behind the +smallest ant-heaps and stones. With the infantry were a hundred of the +Fort Peddie Fingoes, who assisted the troops, and worked bravely with +them. Thus, about one hundred and fifty of our own troops, with a +hundred Fingoes, succeeded in driving eight hundred or a thousand +Kaffirs from their position, killing and wounding at least fifty! + +This check, though, was only for the night,--this advance by the enemy +towards the post, only the prelude of the morrow, the morning of which +presented the awful spectacle of the gathering of the tribes on the +hills around the open plain on which the buildings of Fort Peddie stand +in somewhat scattered order. From my long residence there I know the +place well; a solitary tree is the only thing of the land on which the +eye rests in looking from the green plain forming the parade-ground of +the garrison. All around are open, undulating plains, studded with +ant-heaps, and cultivated here and there by the poor Fingoes, with +Indian and Kaffir corn and pumpkin vines. These vast and almost +desolate plains are bounded by steep ascents, and here and there a dark +shadow in the landscape indicates the entrance of a kloof. It was here +I once witnessed the gathering of the Fingoes from those hills, to a +war-dance. Their wild war-cry issued from their kraals, and then, +coming forth, they united in phalanx and advanced, with their triumphant +chant. Such a gathering as this is a savage sight. As they approach an +imaginary enemy, they shout and yell, then form circles, while some +stern old warrior goes round with his war-club as if striking down the +strangling bodies of the wounded and dying foe; then, extending +themselves in skirmishing order, they again advance, assegai in hand, +while, with shrill and exciting cries, and beating their shields, their +leaders spring and leap with the activity of the tiger. + +When I witnessed this wild exhibition, the Fingoes became so much +excited with the semblance of a fight, that they threw their assegais +from them, as though in earnest; so much so, that the Resident Agent, +Mr Shepstone, who knew their habits and dispositions well, warned the +soldiers, who were looking on, from the front. I was inclined to run +myself; but Mr Shepstone assuring me that they would not do our own +party any harm on purpose, but that he could not answer for the effect +of a stray assegai, if we moved, we were fain to stand still amid a +shower of spears; and, as one passed near me, there was a shout on +seeing I stood my ground. + +Imagine the approach of nine thousand savage enemies; all _in earnest_, +towards the little garrison of Fort Peddie! It must have been an +appalling sight. An eye-witness, and credible person, has published the +following description in a frontier paper. I extract it, being sure of +its truth, as it coincides exactly with the accounts I have read and +received from officers present during the engagement. I have chosen +this one as the most graphic:-- + +"I am afraid," says the writer, "I can give you no description of the +attack itself. Were it not that life and death were concerned in it, I +should have pronounced it a most beautiful sight. The Kaffir commanders +sent their aides-de-camp from one party to another, just as you would +see it done on a field-day with European troops. The main bodies were +continually increasing with horse and shot-men, and soon after eleven +the array was truly terrific. The largest body was to the westward. +Finding their scheme of drawing the troops out did not succeed, small +parties advanced in skirmishing order, and then the two divisions of +Pato and the Gaikas moved towards each other, as if intending a combined +attack on some given point. Colonel Lindsay was superintending the +working of the gun himself, and, as soon as a body of the Gaikas came +within range, a shot was sent into the midst of them, which knocked over +several, disconcerted them a little, and threw them into confusion; +rapid discharges of shot and shell followed. The Kaffirs now extended +themselves in a line six miles in length. These advancing at the same +time, so filled the valley that it seemed a mass of moving Kaffirs; +rockets and shells were poured rapidly on them, and presently a +tremendous fire of musketry was poured, happily, over our heads. The +enemy, however, did not come near enough for the infantry to play upon +them, and only a few shots were fired from the infantry barracks. While +they were rifling a store, a few shots from the howitzer sent them +flying, carrying off their booty, blankets, etc; a rocket was then sent +after them, causing them to drop their plunder. + +"The guns having frightened the cattle of the Fingoes under the fort, +they (the cattle) ran off, and were captured by the Kaffirs, but the +brave Fingoes, following them, took a considerable number. The actual +fighting was between the Fingoes and Kaffirs: the troops could not have +gone out without exposing the forts to danger, as there were masses +ready to pour in at all quarters. + +"The dragoons were ordered out, and, though rather late, followed up +some of Pato's men, who fled at their approach, Sir Harry Darell +galloping after them with his troop. The daring Fingoes followed the +Kaffirs to the Gwanga river, four miles off. Twelve of the Fingoes were +killed, including a woman and child. The two latter were destroyed by +the bursting of a shell over the trench under the fort, in which the +poor Fingo women, and their families, were placed for safety." + +Upwards of two hundred of the enemy fell, and more were afterwards +ascertained to be dead and dying, but they carried off the greater part +of the cattle. It has always been a matter of astonishment to me that +they did not fire the outer residences of the inhabitants, civil and +military, built of wood or unburned brick, thatched, and abandoned by +their inmates, with furniture and stores standing in them. Plunder was +the Kaffir's aim, however; and he obtained the plunder he loved best-- +cattle. The force, for the protection of such a post as Fort Peddie, +was only sufficient to act on the defensive; and it was a horrible +reflection to all, that, if the enemy did succeed in making an entrance, +every soul would be murdered, unless some unhappy women were spared to +swell the number of some savage chieftain's wives. + +In spite of their numbers, these wretches were scattered in about two +hours; but they bore off the cattle. Not one white man fell on that +memorable day: and, so intent was Colonel Lindsay on the working of the +gun with Lieutenant King, R.A., that he was unconscious or careless of +the balls whistling round his elevated position, until reminded of it by +his Adjutant, Lieutenant Jennings. + +While this fearful warfare was going on at Fort Peddie, Colonel +Somerset, with an immense train of waggons, containing supplies and +ammunition, and a force of dragoons, Cape Mounted Riflemen, and Burghers +of all sorts, sizes, colours, and denominations, was moving thitherwards +through the bush, avoiding the defiles near Trumpeter's, and making a +_detour_ by Commatjes. Colonel Richardson, with a division of the 7th, +was sent from Graham's Town, in the middle of the night, to draw the +attention of the enemy from Colonel Somerset's party, but did not meet +any Kaffirs. The enemy were on the alert, as usual, having their scouts +watching the country; and, before Colonel Somerset could reach his +destination, he was warned of the proximity of the foe by shots fired at +the leading oxen of a foremost waggon; but Colonel Somerset, +ready-witted in the bush as a Kaffir, had anticipated this, and provided +spare oxen. With admirable coolness and speed, the dead oxen were cut +away, and fresh ones "inspanned," and in this manner, under the fire of +the enemy, did Colonel Somerset and his gallant band make their way +through the dense bush, up narrow and precipitous defiles, down the +valleys, and across the dangerous drifts, and succeeded in reaching Fort +Peddie, with the loss of four men of his own regiment; two or three also +being wounded. Major Gibsone, 7th Dragoon Guards, and Lieutenant +Stokes, R.E., had their horses shot under them at the first attack, and +some troopers were killed. + +This division left Graham's Town on the 29th of May, the day after the +engagement at Peddie, but before any intelligence of it had been +received. On the 30th, at midnight, we heard the 7th Dragoon Guards +gathering under our windows, in Graham's Town, previously to starting to +make their demonstration; and on Sunday, the 31st of May, Sir Peregrine +Maitland, with a small escort, proceeded to a tower about ten miles from +town, from which he observed Colonel Somerset bivouacked. It was not +known till the next day that Colonel Somerset had encountered the enemy. +No news was received from him, till he could add that he had passed the +bush, and was within sight of Peddie. + +Never happy in idleness when there was an enemy at hand, Colonel +Somerset only remained long enough to Peddie to refresh his men and +horses, and then again moved into the bush. Well acquainted with the +disposition, habits, and superstitions of the Kaffirs, Colonel Somerset +is the kind of foe they most dread; brave, hardy, active, and +high-spirited, he is just the man to lead the hardy Cape Corps against +such barbarians. And now, again, he was soon upon some of the +stragglers who had attacked Fort Peddie on the 28th of May. They had +assembled "to breakfast," in a kloof, thickly wooded; but on one green +spot, lit by the sun, there was gathered a tolerable array of them, +little dreaming that am enemy as wary as themselves was at hand. The +green and sunlit spot was soon darkened by the smoke of British +artillery, and the kloof and mountains gave back the thundering echoes +to the astonished ears of the savages. Such as escaped death slipped +through the bush, and along the wooded ravines, to warn their friends of +danger. + +Colonel Somerset then moved with his division to a place where wood and +water offered the means of a pleasant bivouac, and the troops were about +to open their haversacks and turn their horses, knee-haltered, out to +grass, when Lieutenant Bisset, Cape Mounted Rifles, who had gone out +with Lieutenant Armstrong, of the same corps, to reconnoitre (the latter +having observed a few Kaffirs skulking near the bush, and surmised that +more were in the neighbourhood), rode back with the intelligence that, +his horse having carried him up the slope of a hill, he had found +himself just above a body of about six hundred Kaffirs. These savages, +having had a long march, were halting on their way, preparatory, +perhaps, to attacking the waggons, which they did not know had passed +through Commatjes Bush; or, it may be, they had been stayed in their +progress by the sound of the shells thrown into the kloof, to rout the +"breakfast-party," two hours before. There they were, however, a +regular "clump of Kaffirs." Down the slope flew the fiery steed, which +could only be guided, not stopped, in its career, and right past the +dark mass was borne the rider, while they, bewildered at the unexpected +sight of the "wild horseman" in that sequestered valley, never moved, +but gazed in silence at him as he sped past them. "Wearing round," in +sailor's phrase, his impetuous and hard-mouthed horse, he managed to +bring it up at the halting-place of the division, where he reported the +near proximity of the enemy to Colonel Somerset, who, lifting has cap +from his head, gave three hearty cheers and shouted to Major Gibsone +(7th Dragoon Guards), "Return carbines, draw swords, and charge!" + +"Hurrah!" was echoed back; and on they dashed, Dragoons, Cape Corps, +Burghers, Hottentots, and Fingoes. They found the enemy up and in +position; but they had never intended to be caught in an open plain. +They had never before had an opportunity of judging fairly of a charge +of English cavalry. Such a _melee_. The cavalry dashed through the +phalanx of Kaffirs, and, for want of more cavalry to support them, +_dashed back again_. A Hottentot soldier, one of the Sturdy Cape Corps, +having two horses given him to take care of, charged _unarmed_, save his +sword, and _with a horse in each hand_! There was great slaughter among +the enemy. Captain Walpole, R.E., who had gone out as an amateur, was +severely wounded in two places; Sir Harry Darell was again wounded, but +not severely, with an assegai, as was also Lieutenant Bunbury, 7th +Dragoon Guards. Such Kaffirs as could not escape fell down exhausted, +and cried for mercy: there was a great deal of cunning in this,--they +would have stabbed any one who approached near enough to them to offer a +kind word. They had all had enough, however, of meeting a combined +force of cavalry and Cape Corps, and no doubt the latter tried to +surpass themselves. Those gallant little "Totties" are an untiring, +determined band. How little do we know in England of the smartness and +courage of the Hottentot! + +So excited were the troops by this victory over the enemy--more than two +hundred savages being killed, and an immense number carried off +wounded--that they galloped back to Fort Peddie with the news, and +without refreshing themselves or their horses. Had the enemy been a few +minutes earlier in leaving _their_ bivouac, or had the troops been a few +minutes later in reaching _theirs_, the parties would never have met. +Only one man fell on our side, a Cape Corps soldier, who had often been +reproved for his rashness. + +This action on the Qwanga served to damp the ardour of the Kaffirs for +some time. They bore off their wounded and dying to the kloofs, where +they had established hospitals in the clefts of rocks, or under bush, +screened by karosses and sheepskins, and mourned the death of many a +chieftain's son, captain, or councillor. The superior chiefs themselves +seldom fall, and no paramount chief is expected to lead his men to +action. In the attack on the Mancazana, Macomo, Sandilla's uncle, beat +his warriors to the advance with his knob-kiurries; and then, seating +himself on a hill, waited the result of the attack and the capture of +the cattle. + +While these operations were going on "across the border," the Boers +began to show their teeth on the other side of the Orange River, and the +Griquas, in alarm, moved towards Philippolis, a mission station, with +their families and cattle. The Boers had resolved on taking advantage +of the times to recover the cattle and sheep which the Government had +given to the Griquas, in compensation for their losses in their war with +the Boers, in which we had assisted them. These were the Boers who had +deserted the Colony and tracked over the Orange River ten years before. +It is irrelevant, however, to my present purpose to touch upon the Dutch +question; nevertheless, it may be remarked that we had great occasion to +regret this disaffection. Captain Warden, (formerly of the Cape Corps), +the representative of Government at the Modda River, soon settled the +question, in a spirited and judicious manner. Six rebel Boers were +taken prisoners, and sent to await their trial in gaol. + +The Burghers continued to move up from all quarters. I watched one body +on their entrance into Graham's Town, and saw them winding through the +streets; the cavalcade of horsemen alone must have been at least a mile +in length. Strong, hardy, daring fellows they looked, too; but there +was something very melancholy in the thought, that they had left their +homes and families to meet a ruthless and savage foe, whom they had in +no wise injured, or treated otherwise than with humanity and patience. +How many might never return! I turned sorrowfully away, as this thought +passed through my mind. + +Still the Colony was overrun with Kaffirs. As fast as they were put +down in one place, they started up in another. The mails could not pass +in safety, the enemy sometimes waylaying them, murdering the post +riders, and destroying the letter-bags, or stealing the relay horses +from the mail contractors. The inhabitants of the different districts +received the most garbled statements of affairs, and discontent +prevailed in all directions at the delay in the warfare; a delay +entirely unavoidable, and as ruinous to the Government as to the +colonists. + +In spite of some attempts to foster enmity between the military and +burgher forces, it was pleasant to observe the manner in which the +_fighting men_ worked together; and I therefore give the substance of a +dispatch from a Burgher officer, which was published by order of the +Commander-in-Chief, and was dated-- + +"Trumpeter's Post, 24th June, 1846. + +"Sir, + +"I have the honour to report to you that, in compliance with your +orders, I left this on the 22nd instant, at four o'clock, a.m., taking +with me 240 men of the Provisional Infantry, and 120 Fingoes, under +Captain Symonds, for the purpose of scouring the kloofs on the left bank +of the Fish River. At seven o'clock the same day, we came upon the +enemy, whose spoor (trail) we had followed up from the Fish River drift. +Sending a flanking party down each side, under Captain De Toit and +Captain Symonds, I proceeded down the Gwanga Kloof. Scarcely had we +entered, when we heard the enemy talking distinctly about fifteen paces +in advance of us. We immediately rushed up, and found that their fires, +ninety-three in number, had been deserted a few moments before we came +up, and that cattle had also been driven past. We soon after fell in +with the enemy, who, being fired at, fled in all directions, leaving +their cattle behind them. We captured them, 120 in number, with four +horses, and went back up another kloof, where we found the enemy in +strong force hid behind rocks hanging over our heads, opening their +musketry on us. The fire was returned briskly by our men, who faced the +enemy with much coolness. By this time, Captain De Toit had joined us, +having had a brush in another kloof. The skirmish lasted for three +hours. One Kaffir, I supposed to be a chief, was seated on a hill, +directing the movements of the enemy, telling them to surround us and +take the cattle back. + +"After we came out of the kloof, the Kaffirs tried all they could to cut +us off, waylaying us in every ravine, and firing long shots at us. They +followed us up within five miles of Fort Peddie, when they gradually +retreated, with the loss of six men. No casualties on our side. I +suppose the enemy to be about a thousand strong. I beg leave to state +that I think it impossible to drive the enemy out of the kloof alluded +to, and those immediately beyond it, without a very strong force of +infantry and a piece of artillery. I beg to bring to your notice the +conduct of Lieutenant Lange, who on all occasions when we have met the +enemy has particularly distinguished himself. + +"I have the honour to be, etc, + +"Thos. J. Melville. + +"To Commandant Size." + +On receiving this dispatch, the Commander-in-chief caused the kloofs in +question to be scoured, and it was found that the enemy had abandoned +their strongholds in that quarter. This was only for a time. A troop +of dragoons was ordered out six weeks after to clear the "Clay Pits," +near Trumpeter's. The name is derived from the red clay which is found +in the neighbourhood by the Kaffirs, who paint their bodies with it. It +is, however, an unseemly name for the spot, which I know well. It is +quite a fairy place, with a tiny valley of emerald green, and a crystal +spring, flanked on three sides by steep rocks clothed with thick bush, +and the stately euphorbia tree. There the conies have their +dwelling-places; there the large starry jessamine of the Cape scents the +air, and contrasts its graceful wreaths with the deep green foliage of +the shrubs; there the wild convolvulus forms its own bright bowers, +intermingled with the ivy geranium; and there the chandelier plant waves +its bells near the clear spring where the lions come down to drink in +the deep twilight so peculiar to South Africa. There the baboons shout +to each other from rock to rock; and there, through the gay plants that +enamel the turf, winds the glittering and fatal snake. There the pretty +lizards--"the friend of man," as they are called by those who assert +that they warn the sleeping traveller of the serpent's approach,--creep +about in the sunshine; and there--ah! there we made one day a pleasant +resting-place on a journey. We were very merry, _then_, and the valley +rang with laughter and with song, as we tried the echoes. And _now_ the +savage lurked there, like the lion lurking for his prey. I remember +that the day we did rest there, when I expressed myself enchanted with +the spot, some one said, in an indifferent voice, "This is where poor-- +was killed in the last war; and where the waggon was stopped, and the +poor creatures with it were murdered!" + +It was now found necessary, in consequence of the dense bush near +Trumpeter's being full of Kaffirs, to open a communication between +Graham's Town and Fort Peddie, by a route near the sea. The marines, +sailors, and a party of sappers were therefore sent thither to form a +raft for the conveyance of some expected supplies for the troops across +the Great Fish River, near the mouth. + +Sir Peregrine Maitland, with a very moderate escort, made his way +through the bush, and established his head-quarters at Peddie for a few +days; but on the 23rd of June, he took the field, and encamped with a +large body of troops, part of the 7th, 90th, 91st, Cape Mounted Rifles, +Burghers, Hottentots, and Fingoes, at the mouth of the Fish River; and, +in compliment to the Admiral of the Cape Station, the locality was named +Fort Dacres. + +On the 26th, an express arrived from the Admiral, recalling the sailors +and marines to rejoin the "President," under orders for the Mauritius, +and probably Madagascar. Their removal, at this moment, was much to be +regretted; British energy, patience, courage, and perseverance, however, +surmounted difficulties hitherto unconsidered, and the "Waterloo," with +her cargo, was soon anxiously looked for. Supplies, too, reached the +troops, who were occasionally without any food but meat for days, and +even that was scarce and bad. A shilling was once offered for a glass +of fresh water, without success, and two shillings and six pence for a +biscuit! At Fort Peddie, too, they were in a miserable plight, the +horses almost starving. No comforts whatever for the men, some of them +being badly off for clothing, of the arrival of which they had been +disappointed by the destruction of the baggage-waggons near Trumpeter's, +in May. By the way, some days after the attack on Fort Peddie, Pato's +people brought some of the store-waggons to the hill, in sight of the +garrison, and set fire to them, in order to decoy the troops from the +buildings; but without success. + +A discovery was made near the Fish River mouth, by some soldiers, of a +leaf which they substituted for tea; but the water, from being so near +the sea, was very brackish and unwholesome, and thus no good judgment +could be formed of the quality of the substitute. Some Boers arriving +at Fort Dacres, having never seen the sea, rushed down to it in +amazement at the "Groete Vley" (Big River), and, stooping down to drink, +were much disappointed at finding it "brack" (salt). + +Difficulties of various kinds now beset the path of the +Commander-in-chief. The enemy had stolen most of the colonial cattle, +and what was left was in such a wretched state, from fatigue and bad +pasturage, that, independently of present hunger, the trek oxen could +make but very little way. On the 6th, Major Yarborough, 91st, in +command of the regular infantry, consisting of about 120 of the 91st, +and part of the 90th, made his first march from the Fish River mouth, +along the sea-shore, to the mouth of the Beka: here they encamped the +first night, and had a taste of the rough service in which they were +engaged. The waggons did not reach them till morning, so that they had +but slight provision, and no tents. However, they made the best of it, +and, rolling themselves up in such cloaks and karosses as they could +muster, lay down by the fires to sleep. Those who had saddles made +pillows of them,--and a saddle makes no bad resting-place for a weary +head, as I can testify from experience. On the 10th, all was bustle +again; tents were struck, and a hasty meal was made of tough beef and +ration biscuit, hard and mouldy most likely, and the division again +moved on at five o'clock in the afternoon. + +After sleeping five nights in the open air--in consequence of the +waggons with the tents being in the rear, from the state of the oxen-- +they reached the Buffalo River. During this march, they experienced +much discomfort from bad weather, as well as want of provisions. On one +occasion, they could not see their way for twelve hours, and were +obliged to stand under a heavy rain, the ground being so saturated with +wet that they could not lie down. For four days, the men never tasted +meat, and the officers had only such provisions as their horses could +carry. The poor Fingoes were reduced to eating their shields of +bullock-hides, and the Hottentots tightened their girdles of famine. +Fortunately, Captain Melville's Hottentot Burghers overtook some Kaffir +women, from whom they captured three hundred cows,--a great god-send to +a starving army, for a long march was before them, the Kaffirs having +gone as far as the Kei. The General, who shared the privations and +sufferings of the troops under his command, determined to follow them +up, but for a time the division halted till the waggons came up with +comforts, in the shape of coffee, biscuits, sugar, rice, etc; and at the +same time vessels continued to arrive at the Fish River mouth, whence +stores could be forwarded, though literally at a "snail's pace," to the +troops in front. + +On the 17th of July, Colonel Somerset, with three days' provision, +headed a large force of 1,600 cavalry and infantry, the latter +provisional forces, which were to recapture the stolen cattle from Pato; +it will be seen with what success. From the state of the trek oxen, it +was quite impossible for the regular infantry to follow in support of +Colonel Somerset's division; they therefore proceeded to the Debe flats, +_via_ King William's Town, headed by the untiring and brave General +Maitland, on their way to the Amatolas, to intercept the Gaikas. The +poor oxen could scarcely crawl, many of them dropping dead on the way. +The Cape ox is certainly the most patient and gentle creature of its +kind. And now the last issue of meat was again made, and sad prospects +were before the troops on their way from the sea, whence other supplies +alone could be looked for. Happily, a few straggling sheep were +afterwards captured: and thus fed from day to day, in the wilderness, by +Providence, the troops moved forty miles in ten days. On the 21st of +July, they encamped four miles from King William's Town, where in the +war of 1834-5, Sir Harry Smith, the present Governor of the Cape, met +the Kaffir chiefs. + +On reaching the spot where the troops were to encamp, on the other side +of King William's Town, through which they had passed--finding it +ransacked by the Kaffirs--they were unpleasantly surprised by the return +of twenty empty waggons, which had left them two days before for the +Fish River mouth, with an escort of one hundred Burghers, who had fired +away all their ammunition and retired, having one man wounded, and +losing six oxen. The Kaffirs informed them, as they set fire to one of +the rear waggons, that "unless we made peace with them, they would stop +all our convoys." + +Colonel Johnstone, 27th Regiment, who had left Graham's Town on the 8th +of July, for the Fish River mouth, where he was relieved by the second +division of the 90th, joined the General's Camp on the 26th of the same +month, bringing with him some welcome and long-looked-for supplies. + +While thus encamped, a Kaffir woman, pretending to be the sister of the +Chief, Umhala, made her way to the Governor to sue for peace, asserting +that Umhala was "sitting still." Many such messages had been sent, but +were quite unworthy of obtaining a hearing. The Kaffirs having driven +their booty across the Kei, were of course anxious for peace, and +Sandilla had the cool impudence to send four ambassadresses to the +Lieutenant-Governor at Fort Beaufort, to ask "why we had made war upon +him," and to request permission to "plant his corn!" After the affair +at Fort Peddie, Stock, an I'Slambie chief, sent messengers to complain +of _our attacks on him_, when he, too, was "sitting still," and only +wished to be allowed to "watch his father Eno's grave!" Very pathetic +indeed! Stock _was_ no doubt "sitting still" beside "his father's +grave," but his people were at work, plundering, burning, murdering, +torturing and mutilating the troops and colonists, _while_ he "sat +still," and _approved_. He should have _protected_ that sacred spot, +and kept the neighbourhood of Fort Peddie clear of marauders. When his +father died, after the commencement of the war, he was buried decently; +the military at Fort Peddie witnessing the funeral, and receiving the +promises of fidelity which Stock offered. But, in spite of these +promises, in spite of the Kaffir law that "no tribe shall engage in war +for twelve moons after the death of its chief," Stock's people were +among the _first_ who made their ruthless way through the helpless +Colony with brand and assegai! + +The chief, Umki, took refuge at Peddie, at the commencement of +hostilities, leaving his people, or rather permitting his people to +surrender at will. He was received at Graham's Town, where, with his +wives and ragged retinue, he was provided with "board and lodging" at +the expense of Government. There is no faith to be placed in any chief +but the Christian, Kama, who, with the remnant of his people, took an +active part in the defence of the Winterberg district, thirty miles from +Fort Beaufort. Kama proved himself true to his religion, to us, and to +himself, in every way sacrificing worldly distinctions and property, +and, as I have before remarked, putting his life in jeopardy by the +deadly offence he gave the Tambookies in refusing a second wife from +that royal race. Yet I have never heard the voice of public +philanthropy raised in favour of Kama. + + + +PART TWO, CHAPTER EIGHT. + +EXPEDITION ACROSS THE KEI. + +Early in July, Colonel Somerset proceeded on an expedition across the +Kei, in pursuit of the treacherous chief, Pato, who had carried his +plunder towards Kreli's country. Kreli is the son of Hintza, who was +shot during the former war by a colonist of the name of Southey, while +endeavouring to escape from Colonel, now Sir Harry Smith. Kreli had +declared he would not receive Pato, and it had yet to be proved whether +the former was faithful or treacherous to us: if faithful, it was for +policy's sake, and not from any sense of honour. + +Colonel Somerset having remained absent on this expedition longer than +was expected, great anxiety was felt for his safe return to the +Governor's camp; when, on the 30th of July, intelligence was received at +Graham's Town that he had crossed the Kei, and taken between six and +seven thousand head of cattle, from Pato's people. The Kaffirs, it is +said, were very daring; their dread of losing cattle is the only thing +that gives them any courage to face the troops, but the dispatch +mentions that "the moment the troops crossed the Kei, the enemy fled in +all directions." Before passing the river, the wretches dared them with +their usual cry of "Izapa!" The Fort Peddie Fingoes, intent on cattle +also, fought desperately--nothing could restrain them; one only was +killed and one wounded. Captain Groenenwaldt, of the Swellendam +division of Burghers, was badly wounded, after having captured two +thousand head of cattle--is said, with eleven men. But, when such false +statements were made against the military, it is difficult to believe +all the fine things in favour of the civilians, especially when I know +that many things that could be said militating against the latter, were +carefully concealed from the public. We have often known the troops +sent out to remedy the disasters and losses of the irregular forces; +when, if the latter were only dismounted Hottentots, no blame was +attributed to them, however careless they might have been. This is +injurious, for we know not what faith to put in the favourable reports +on civilians, however truly they may deserve them. + +Mr Shepstone, Government Interpreter in command of the Fingoes, had a +narrow escape in re-crossing a drift. The Kaffirs, with their usual +cunning, allowed him to pass it; but, in returning, they completely +surrounded him. Mr Shepstone ordered his men to lie down, and in this +position they fired on each foe as he crept out of his ambush. Having +beaten them, they attacked another body, and recaptured two thousand +head of cattle, on the point of being carried off from a weak party of +Fingoes. On this occasion, Mr Shepstone was struck on the head by a +spent ball, which had, however, sufficient force to hurt him +considerably. + +On the second day of the expedition, the body of a Chief, in a +tiger-skin kaross, was dug up [Note 1]. It was not recognised, and was, +of course, of inferior note. On approaching the Kei, the Colonial +infantry halted to breakfast at a kraal, where they found an old woman +[Note 2]. They learned from her that the cattle "had only moved that +morning," Mr Melville having heard the report confirmed by some +goatherds whom he had taken prisoners in seizing the goats, pushed on +with two hundred Hottentots, and recaptured some cattle, and the next +day thousands more were seen on the other side of the river. Captain +Donovan, Cape Mounted Rifles [Note 3], led a party of the Cape Corps +across the river; the guns and the rest of the cavalry lining the +heights. Captain Donovan brought back several head of cattle to Colonel +Somerset, and bivouacked for the night. It was a miserable one. Cold, +dark, and very wet; no tents, scarcely any provision, and but slight +covering! Little rest could be obtained, for the enemy and the Fingoes +kept up an incessant exchange of shots, yelling and shouting to each +other like demons. Some of the prisoners admitted that Pato was near +the sea, and observed that Umhala had "died at the Gwanga," but this was +no doubt figurative, implying that his power was broken; he was dead as +a Chief. Mr Melville, who had lost his way, returned, July 21st, to +Colonel Somerset's camp, bringing with him a large herd of cattle, +having killed five Kaffirs in taking it. As the colonial infantry were +all sadly knocked up with fatigue and hardship, it was now determined by +Colonel Somerset that the three prisoners should be sent with messages +to Umhala, Pato, and Kreli, previously to the return of the troops. So, +drawing up his forces in line along the heights above the drift of the +Kei, three rounds of artillery were fired, and the prisoners sent off +with a message to the effect that "Colonel Somerset had fired three guns +on these heights, to say that he took possession of that country, from +the Fish River to the Kei, for the Government--one gun for Kreli, +because he had given shelter to Pato, the great enemy of the Colony; one +gun for Pato; and one for Umhala--that these guns were only the +forerunners of what was to come; that we were going to the Amatolas, to +attack the Gaikas, and that afterwards we would return to the Kei." The +prisoners were then set free; they kissed Colonel Somerset's feet, and +rushed down the hill towards the river. On the great guns being fired, +the Kaffirs on the heights about two miles off, fled as fast as +possible. + +As the division marched back, the Kaffirs showed themselves, in small +parties, following in the rear, and at night continued to harass the +troops by firing into the camp. The next day, the 22nd July, both men +and horses were knocked up, and the former were frequently obliged to +walk. About sunset, Mr Melville's party were followed closely by the +enemy; and, had they not received assistance from Colonel Somerset's +division in front, they would have had some hot work, as the savages +were four times their number. All along the line of march the Kaffirs +continued to fire at them; fifty-eight horses were left dead: during the +whole of the night, the enemy kept up a fire upon the camp, without +effect. On the 23rd, men and horses began to fail in strength, for want +of provision; and, tired and famished, the troops had to fight their +way, as the enemy fired from every ambuscade along the line of march; +horses and cattle dropping fast. After sunset, they were again beset by +savages, whose fires were visible from the bivouac. Lying in a circle +round the cattle, little rest could be obtained; the Kaffirs shouted and +yelled as usual, saying they now had the Umlunghi "in a calabash." As +this insolence continued, it was supposed the Gaikas had come down from +the Amatolas to help Pato's people; and thus, a rush being expected, the +men were ordered to stand to their arms till daylight. In the middle of +the night, while this sharp firing from the enemy was at its height, a +man's ammunition blew up, wounding himself and two other men. Some +horses were also stolen, in spite of all precaution and vigilance. Two +or three Kaffirs were shot. + +Right glad were the troops to reach the General's camp, and the Governor +himself must have been much relieved at their return, especially with +such booty. + +On the 26th of July, Colonel Hare left Fort Beaufort with a thousand +troops. Captain Ward, 91st Regiment, was appointed Commandant of +Beaufort during the absence of the Lieutenant-Governor, Sir Andries +Stockenstrom having taken the field some weeks before. Sir Andries had +had a conference with the Tambookies, who some time before had come down +upon the Hottentot settlement on the Kat River, and done considerable +mischief. This mischief being done, and the Tambookies having no doubt +shared the plunder with the Gaikas, they promised to take no further +part against the Colony! The affair at the Gwanga, and the approach of +the planting season, were two grand incentives to them to "sit still," +but, as long as the cattle were known to be in Tambookie-land, how could +any arrangements be satisfactory? + +On the day that Colonel Hare left Fort Beaufort, the 26th of July, Sir +Andries Stockenstrom put his Burgher force in position, moved in the +night from Block Drift, and, on reaching the Tyumie, had a spirited +engagement with Macomo's people (Gaikas), who had entrenched themselves +in those fastnesses. Sir Andries Stockenstrom's plans of attack were +generally admitted to be good; his movements were made in the night, and +were as stealthy as those of the savages themselves. It was at dawn of +day, after spending the night on the ridge of the mountains, that Sir +Andries divided his force into parties of two hundred, and entered the +bushy kloofs of these strongholds, where they were soon engaged with the +enemy. As I have only had hearsay evidence on this subject, I can give +no description of the fight from good authority, but it seems to have +been a smart affair, Sir Andries cheering his men, who fought, it is +said, till their ammunition was nearly expended. Many Kaffirs are +reported to have fallen in this engagement. The enemy might be said to +have been nearly hemmed in. That part of the country where the Kei, the +Bashee, and the Umtata have their sources, is described as being of an +"impracticable character," and abutting upon the territories of the +Tambookie Chief, Umtitara, and of the Amaponda Chief, Faku. With the +former, Sir Andries had already made "arrangements," and received +promises of good faith! Faku offered his services to the Government at +the beginning of the war, but it was not considered expedient to accept +them. He, however, it is said, received permission to seize such cattle +as he could take from our Kaffir foes; and, as he destroyed women and +children without mercy, he became an object of great terror "to all the +country round." No reliance could be placed on the good faith of any of +these Chiefs, but they seem to have deemed it politic to "sit still" and +plant their own, provided we did not try to seize the cattle. + +On the 5th of August, the enemy approached Colonel Hare's division under +the Amatolas, and commenced hostilities by firing; this was returned by +the troops, and continued for some time. Serjeant Barnes, of the Royal +Sappers and Miners, was shot through the heart, and a serjeant of the +Provincials was also killed, besides eight or nine coloured people being +wounded. Before sunrise the next morning, the two divisions under +Colonel Hare and Sir Andries Stockenstrom were in motion, and the +former, seeing the Fingoes hesitate for a moment at the edge of a bush, +raised his cap, gave three hearty cheers, and led the way himself. The +old soldier's Irish blood was fairly up. The fight continued till +sunset, and during the action blue-lights and rockets were thrown up at +intervals, as signals to the head-quarter division, but there was no +answering signal, nor could it be ascertained where this division +actually was. On the following morning all was preparation for a second +engagement; but, as usual, the enemy had slipped away in the night, like +a Will o' the wisp, towards the Buffalo. Colonel Hare moved on to Fort +Cox, where Sir Andries was to join him, after scouring some of the +difficult passes of the mountains, where the Fingoes and Hottentots +fought desperately, climbing the heights in the face of the enemy's +fire. + +After Colonel Somerset's return from the Kei, the cavalry were too much +done up for further work without rest for men and horses; one hundred +and fifty-seven horses were in such a jaded state, that it was found +necessary to shoot them, and many others died. The Kaffirs harassed the +troops when they dared not meet them, by firing into the camps at night, +while other parties set fire to the grass, to destroy even the wretched +pasturage left for the toil-worn cattle. + +In order to recruit the exhausted strength of his division, Colonel +Somerset bivouacked within five miles of Fort Peddie, near the Gwanga. +Until the cattle and horses were in better condition, it was quite +impossible to continue offensive operations. + +The only circumstance on which, at this period, the mind could rest with +satisfaction, was the success attending the landing of stores and +supplies at the Fish River mouth. It is to be hoped that Mr Cock, at +the Kowie, will reap the reward of many years' perseverance. Still the +want of rain continued to destroy our hopes of vegetation, and sickness +prevailed in many districts. + +Some extracts from my Journal will serve to give an idea of our +defenceless position in Graham's Town; and though the perils, +privations, and terrors of women have little to do in the working of the +great machine of warfare, they can hardly fail to excite some interest +among those who in happy England cannot fully appreciate the blessings +of peace, from the circumstance of their never having endured the +horrors of war. I shall relate, as concisely as possible, our own +privations, alarms, and anxieties. + +"August 1st.--Kaffir fires seen in the distance: in the evening, +received intelligence from head-quarters relative to Colonel Somerset's +engagements on the other side of the Kei, and capture of the cattle. + +"Colonel Somerset could have captured more than he did, but he had not +force to retain them. Every night his bivouacs were surrounded by +Kaffirs, who fired continually into them; sometimes in derision, at +others in anger. Some called out to the troops, `Take care of the +calves you have got, we will have them in two years!' Others exclaimed, +`Let us rush upon them!' `No, no,' said another party, `who ever heard +of attacking a kraal of guns?' Some crept nearer the bivouac, and +entreated their favourite pack-oxen to come out to them: `What +business,' said they, `have you among white men? Come out to us--we +will treat you kindly. Leave the Umlunghi, who will ill-use you and +make you work.' + +"Thus they harassed the troops during the whole march; hanging on their +rear in the day-time, and, at night, obliging them to keep up a constant +peppering. At the drifts there was always troublesome work. + +"August 2nd, Sunday.--I am always more impressed with the strange +appearance of the town on Sunday than on any other day; every one who +can, making his way to church, and business suspended; shots, too, above +the town along the hills, and the rattle of arms and accoutrements in +the streets, are more audible on Sunday than in the bustling week-days, +Another thing I have frequently remarked; the news of whatever occurs in +the field generally reaches us on the Sabbath, and we often say, `To-day +is Sunday: I wonder what intelligence we shall have.' + +"August 3rd.--A beautiful day. It is quite grievous--yes, melancholy, +to see the sun scorching the earth, and know that the cattle must die +for want of food, and that there will be no vegetation this year. We +have had no rain for months, except slight showers for a day or two. +To-day, some young girls have assembled in my cottage-garden to +celebrate a birthday. What a relief it is to have left the confinement +of the dreadful barrack for this small cottage on the hill! We are +scarcely considered in a safe position, but we grew weary of the +gaol-like Drostdy, and succeeded in getting shelter at Fort England-- +misnamed a fort--where a few of the 91st are in quarters. + +"But the birthday. None of our little female community had been merry +since April; but this bright day I resolved to be cheerful, and to put +aside my child's books and my own employments; and, since the sun would +shine, and not oppressively, to enjoy it. First, there were flowers to +gather and arrange. I wanted some arums, the beautiful lilies of the +yam plant, so the girls went down below the parched, uncultivated +garden, to a stream now almost dry and desecrated by Hottentot +washerwomen: they there witnessed melancholy `signs of the times,'--nine +dead animals lay beside the dull and shallow stream. The poor starved +creatures had crawled into the hollow to die. These things make but +slight impressions on the young; they do not trace results, however sad, +to their primary causes; so when they had replenished my flower-vase, +away they went to their garden amusements. I mention these trivial +things by way of contrast. She whose birthday we celebrated came down +the path, with a gay wreath of flowers and foliage wound round her fair +hair--happy, healthy, blooming, joyous sixteen! Thus I mused, as she +stood laughing under a fine oak, just coming into leaf--like her, in its +spring. Suddenly, in the distance we heard the boom of cannon echoing +sullenly along the mountain-ridges, and through the kloofs and passes +far away. The day was so still that we heard distinctly the rapid +discharges of shot and shell! The servants told us they had heard these +sounds of death and doom all the morning. We only knew they came from +that part of the country where the regular troops were co-operating with +Sir Andries Stockenstrom and his Burgher force. Gazing in that +direction, my eye fell on a signal-tower on a hill-top. That tower, +with many others, is now deserted, for three reasons. The first, and +most cogent one is that, like the rest of its fellows, it is useless. +The atmosphere of this climate scarcely ever permits communication by +telegraph. Secondly, the men cannot be provisioned there in war-time. +Of meat and biscuit they might lay in a stock, as if for sea; but water +cannot be procured without risking life. Thirdly, in war-time, when the +telegraphs would be of the utmost use, and would save time, labour, +life, and horses, by making swift communications of the stealthy +movements of the Kaffirs, the force on the frontier is so small that no +men can be spared to work the signals. + +"All the morning of that birthday we heard the cannon booming as we sat +in the garden, and we afterwards learned that Macomo had been hemmed in +and attacked in the Tyumie fastnesses, but with little success and some +loss on our side. The enemy, as usual, harassed the troops, and then +gave them the slip. + +"5th. Kaffirs known to be in the immediate neighbourhood of Graham's +Town, an attack fully anticipated by some; fortunately, we never entered +into these `alarms.' The soldiers' wives on the hill in extreme terror. +Shots firing all day rapidly. I wonder more accidents do not occur +among those who have lately learned the use of fire-arms. I stood at +the gate in the evening and watched a fire very near the town: it blazed +up for about ten minutes, and was extinguished as suddenly as it had +been lit. Fires seen in other directions, supposed to be signals for a +general assembly of the warriors in the mountains. More cattle stolen +within three miles of us to-day. Walked down in the evening to the end +of the green, to look at our defences. Sorry things! A square of +thatched barracks, more like huts than houses, contains sometimes no +more than fifteen soldiers, some of them left here as ineffective. Our +space near the guardhouse is defended by a wooden stockade, breast-high, +and two other passages are banked up about three feet high. No picquets +at this end of the town, for want of men. We have a kloof just above +the mess-house, and it was a few miles from there that Mr Norden, of +the Yeomanry, was shot. + +"6th. Our garrison is reinforced by a corps of liberated Africans, a +happy, lazy-looking set, who are chiefly employed in escorting waggons. +The Malays have also been brought in a body from Cape Town. They take +the war coolly enough, and when off duty, lie about the green in the +warm and moonlight nights, whistling and singing the most harmonious +choruses. They will not enter the bush, and have never been of use in +rescuing cattle. + +"7th. Kaffir Jack, Cosani, arrived. He has rather a suspicious +character, but has never proved unfaithful. His adventures would help +to dress up a volume in Cooper's style, for he lives much among the +English, but can wander at will from one end of Kaffirland to the other. +Some days ago, it was suspected that Umki's son, Sio, had gone off to +Kaffirland, on some treacherous mission from his wily father. Sir Harry +Smith's opinion of Umki was so bad, that he used to tell him plainly in +reply to his fair promises, `Umki, you are a liar!' Umki, however, +never took offence at this. Falsehood is no disgrace among the Kaffirs; +on the contrary, the greatest rogue is the best man. Jack came to say +Sio had never been away. Just now Jack is under Umki's stern guidance. +At any time the word of a Kaffir is worth nothing. He asked about +Sandilla. I told him there was no longer a chief of that name, that +there had been one, who had been to his people as a string by which +beads are held together. Sandilla had been the string, but it was +broken, his people had been the beads, but they were scattered, unlinked +for ever, and dispersed for and wide, and neither beads nor string could +now be re-united. Jack bent down his head and mused with his hands +clasped for some minutes, and said, `It is good.' Umki and his +followers came up in the afternoon; two wives, servants, and children. +He and his ragged retinue amused themselves by inspecting our defences, +our open gardens, and our thatched houses. If Umki can communicate the +true condition of Graham's Town to his friends in Kaffirland, they may +take advantage of it. I am sure the Governor, if he were in Graham's +Town, would not allow this treacherous _refugee_ to wander at large as +he does. News from the camps--unsatisfactory--Kaffirs still firing into +the bivouacs. Lieut. Stokes, R.E., slightly wounded by a sentry, Mr S +having imprudently ventured beyond the lines. + +"August 8th.--The Kaffirs have again entered the Colony in numerous +bodies, and continue plundering and murdering as usual. We hear this +day of the arrival of the 45th in Simon's Bay on the 30th July. The +distance they have to travel would in England be journeyed in about +forty hours; we shall now observe the period that elapses between the +arrival of the 45th in Simon's Bay, near Cape Town, and their entrance +into Graham's Town, as well as that between their departure from +Graham's Town and their arrival in the immediate front of the army in +Kaffirland. It is to be hoped that their approach will daunt the enemy, +but the Kaffirs have learned their power ever since the disastrous +affair at Burn's Hill; and, in spite of occasional reverses, the tide +has hitherto been in their favour. Their losses, considering their +number, have been trifling; they have possessed themselves of the +colonial cattle, and they have cut off vast quantities of our supplies, +while we are obliged to pause. We have driven the great body of them +out of the ceded territory, it is true, but they have taken most of the +plunder with them into a richer and more fertile country. The month of +July has been marked by the death of one of the Colony's most promising +and creditable settlers. Mr Gordon Nourse, Assistant Commandant of the +Burgher Force, was shot by the enemy, while assisting a neighbour to +rescue his cattle. Sir Andries Stockenstrom, in announcing officially +the death of Mr Nourse, says, `He fell yesterday in a gallant attack +made by himself at the head of a small party upon a body of Kaffirs in +the jungle. The Commandant-General has to lament the loss the service +has sustained of one of the most efficient, zealous, and meritorious +officers under his command.' + +"9th, Sunday. Sad news from a place known by the hideous name of Hell's +Poort. Five burghers have been shot by Kaffirs in that terrible pass. +A party of nineteen having entered a rocky and bushy kloof in search of +some cattle, they were fired upon by some Kaffirs posted on the summit +of the hills on either side. The burghers, being surrounded by 200 +Kaffirs, and their ammunition getting low, retired to their camp for a +reinforcement, with which they returned, and again faced the enemy. +Among the five who fell, were two brothers of the name of De Villiers, +the history of whose death is a mournful one. As one brother fell +wounded to the ground, the other ran to him to comfort and support him +in his dying moments. His friends called him away; he would not stir, +but held his young brother's hand in his, till a shot from the savages +brought him down, and laid him beside him whom he would not forsake to +save his own life. + +"10th. The bodies of the five Stellenbosch Burghers were brought in to +be buried. A concourse of people followed the melancholy train of five +coffins through the town to the burial-ground. + +"13th. Rain, at last! gentle showers. Only those who have looked on +the parched soil of Africa can have an idea of the blessing of rain +after a long drought. It sounds quite musical as it patters on the few +trees that are in the garden. The enemy have laid waste the country +from the Buffalo to the Kei. What a sight must those vast tracts of +country be, when blazing! The grass will spring up all the fresher for +it, afterwards. + +"17th. Walked into town. As we passed the Wesleyan Chapel, we saw Umki +and his wives and children basking idly in the sun on the pavement near +the chapel-porch. Umki was set aside by his tribe for being a coward in +the last war, so now he bestows his unwelcome company on the English, +roaming about, begging from every one he meets, spending what he gains +at the canteens. + +"19th. My child's birthday! these seem trifles to touch upon; to us +they only bring sad memories when we compare the present state of war +and anxiety with happy anniversaries passed in peaceful England. News +from the head-quarter division. The General is encamped at a place +called Fort Beresford, so named in the last war by Sir Benjamin D'Urban, +in compliment to one of his aides-de-camp. Colonel Johnstone, 27th +Regiment, had led about 300 infantry over the Buffalo mountains, while +Colonel Somerset, with a cavalry column and guns, had gone round the +base of the hills, the infantry, ascending to the summit in single file, +and Mr Melville's Hottentots mounting the hill in another direction, +killed three Kaffirs and captured some cattle. The troops bivouacked +for the night on the ridge. Next day, every bush and kloof was scoured, +but neither shots nor yells, nor the old cry of `Izapa!' was heard in +those now solitary places, the enemy having decamped in the night. At +one time, a party of horsemen were discovered winding leisurely along an +eminence at some little distance, and this was afterwards ascertained to +be the chief Seyolo and his people coolly riding off from the vicinity +of the troops, who, they knew, would have great difficulty in catching +them, from their having no cavalry with them. + +"In spite of the silence which reigned in these solitudes, there were +evident traces of hasty retreat, by the fresh spoor of cattle; but to +detail this march up the hill and down again, would be but a repetition +of many other such expeditions. The Kaffirs slipped away, and the +troops followed them with their ammunition loose in their pouches, to be +ready for action, but returned harassed, disappointed, and half-starved. + +"The country through which they passed is of a much grander and more +fertile character than that occupied by the colonists; and, were the +Buffalo and Keiskama rivers opened to trade, an immense increase of +commerce would be the result." [This desirable change has since been +effected by Sir Harry Smith.] + +"The head-quarter division, consisting of part of the 91st and 90th +Regiments, under Major Yarborough (91st), two troops of the 7th Dragoon +Guards, and some of the Cape Corps, remained encamped at Fort Beresford, +the whole being under the command of Sir Peregrine Maitland. Colonel +Somerset, Cape Mounted Rifles, and Colonel Richardson, 7th Dragoon +Guards, having reported their horses unfit for duty, it was resolved +that the main body of the cavalry should take up a position where both +men and horses could rest and be refreshed. As soon as the horses that +remain recover from the late fatigue and starvation, the country will be +patrolled and kept, until more decisive measures can be framed, and the +worn-out cattle are fit for more active operations. + +"The Kaffirs have long remained in small detached bodies in the +neighbourhood of the camp, firing into it at night and lying in wait for +occasions of theft, or mischief, all day. A prisoner was brought in one +day, who asserted that the woods close by were full of women and old +men. Although Macomo had ordered his men not to fight, they were +determined to plunder and murder, and crept into the colony and round +the orders as usual. `Young Kaffirland' had gone over the Kei for the +present, with the stolen cattle. + +"Troops were sent into the woods, to bring in some of the prisoners. +The poor heathen females are employed in carrying powder and provisions +from one ambuscade to another, and it is therefore necessary to search +them. But they are not easily intimidated; and, when threatened by the +military, who to frighten them put their muskets to their shoulders, +they calmly put the pieces on one side, and as there was little to repay +any one for the trouble of carrying off a set of Kaffir women against +their will, they were left in the woods, where, no doubt, corn was +buried for their provision. Great scarcity, however, must prevail with +them, as the crops failed last year. + +"On the 15th of August, fourteen poor waggon-drivers, chiefly Fingoes +and Hottentots, went into the kloofs of the mountains to search for +corn, and, seeing some cattle, were led miles away. A strong force of +Kaffirs, seeing the weakness of their party as they emerged upon an open +plain, rushed upon them, and, it is supposed, killed all but one, who +crept into a bush, and, lying by till night, made his way back to the +camp, with the melancholy intelligence. Lieutenant Owen, with a party +of the 90th, was sent out in search of these poor creatures, but found +only one body. The rest had probably been borne off, to suffer torture +and mutilation. The savage brutality of the Kaffir is not satisfied +with taking life, or even by immediate mutilation. Some Hottentots +having been decoyed to a bush by some goats being placed at the edge of +it to graze, they were seized by the Kaffirs, and murdered. The bodies, +being discovered by the troops, were buried; but when a party again +traversed the spot where they had been interred, it was found that the +poor dead creatures had been dug up, mutilated, and impaled! I have +lately heard a shocking anecdote, connected with the death of an +unfortunate Hottentot, who, having been brought up as a Christian, +wished to be allowed to make his peace with the Almighty ere he suffered +death. Some wished to give him a few moments to devote to prayer, but +others rushed forward, exclaiming, `Nonsense, kill him at once,--what is +the use of his praying here? Have we not driven God Almighty from the +land?' The murder of the missionary Schulz dispelled the idea that such +men were protected by an invisible power, an idea the Kaffirs always +entertained before, and even since the commencement of the war. They +have shown no respect for the missionary stations, for they have +destroyed houses, chapels, and bibles; hence, their idea that they have +`driven God from the land.' + +"21st. News from Fort Beaufort. Macomo had again sent to Colonel Hare +to sue for peace. The Lieutenant-Governor replied, that if the Gaikas +would give up their guns and the plundered cattle, he would intercede +for peace with the Governor. This is not the sort of peace they want. +I hope the rumours of a rupture between Macomo and Sandilla may be +correct. + +"A paramount chief's person is held sacred, otherwise, perhaps, as +Macomo wishes to head the Gaikas, Sandilla might be secretly disposed +of; but such an instance has never been known. How strange the tie +between chief and people! The chief will not hesitate to sacrifice by +death, or torture, any individual of his tribe, however innocent he may +know him to be, if he stand in the way of his most trifling whims, but +the person of the chief is sacred, and will be protected by his people +at the risk of their lives. [We see the same thing among insect and +animal communities.] Kreli and Pato have quarrelled, the former, it is +said, reproaching Pato for bringing the Umlunghi into his country. I +think it more likely they are at variance about the plunder. Kreli +probably keeps a fair face to us, while he invites Pato to his kraal, +and having got him there, would fain share the booty. + +"Nothing yet heard of Sir Andries Stockenstrom and Colonel Johnstone, +with their divisions, but to-day, the 25th, some news of importance has +reached us from the Governor's camp! Stock, Eno's son, has sent +councillors to say, that he wishes to surrender himself. Macomo and +Umhala have intimated the same desire, but Sandilla, as obstinate as +ever, protests that if we will not grant peace on his own terms, his +people shall advance into our colony in the same degree as our troops +move through his. This day, the contractor has killed the last +slaughter-ox for the troops in Graham's Town. + +"26th. News from Fort Beaufort. Captain Ryneveldt and his Burghers had +had an `affair,'--four people killed on our side, and five wounded. No +chance of rain, and the country in that district and this is in a +frightful state. Cattle, as usual, are dying round us, in the very +streets, and dropping dead from the waggons. Colonel Somerset is +patrolling between the Fish River mouth and Fort Beaufort. It will be a +great thing to get supplies along that line from Waterloo Bay, for there +is scarcely any corn at Beaufort. The 7th have gone thither to recruit. + +"28th. Stock's agreement, drawn up by Colonel Somerset, is to be +submitted to the Governor for approval. Stock's readiness to give up +the cattle surprises me. He will outwit us, if he can, and probably now +only wants a truce that he may be allowed to plant. No sense of honour +brings him `to the feet of the Governor,' but the document must speak +for itself. Like Sandilla's, in February last, it is very pathetic, and +sounds poetical. Having obtained permission to enter Colonel Somerset's +camp, near the Gwanga, Stock reached it on the 21st, and made the +following declaration:-- + +"That `he was come to throw himself at the Governor's feet, that he was +to-day the Governor's Fingo (slave), that he had fallen, and laid no +more claim to his ground, that he was come out of the bush, that he was +at our feet, and that by coming without arms he considered he +surrendered himself; that he would leave his father's bush, and asked +only for a place whereon to "sit." He entreated he might not be sent to +Fort Peddie, as it might lead to quarrel between the Fingoes and his +people. He stated that his people were so numerous he could not count +them by tens, that he was willing to give up all his cattle and horses, +soliciting nothing but a place where he might sit, and hoped the +Government would appoint him the care of his father's bones.' + +"Colonel Somerset replied, that, `the bush where his father's bones lay +was no longer Stock's, that he had forfeited it by breaking faith with +the Government, but that it should be protected, although he would not +be allowed to live in it.' + +"Terms were then drawn up. Stock was to send into Kaffirland for the +stolen cattle and horses, a temporary ground `whereon to sit' was +appointed him till the Governor's pleasure was known; and, in the +meantime, he was to be held responsible that no molestation should be +offered to our convoys proceeding through that part of the country. +Sonto, an inferior chief of his tribe, was not considered in these +agreements. + +"At the close of these proceedings, Stock laid down his arms, and wept +as he did so. They consisted of thirty-three stand of arms, and +thirty-six assegais in the possession of his immediate followers. +Colonel Somerset returned the chief his own gun. At first, Stock was +unwilling to resign his arms, saying his tribes had never yet been +subdued, and would be considered women for doing so. Some time was +given him to decide, and finally he gave them up with this remark, that +`sooner or later the other chiefs must come to the same resolution.' +Still, the `people' continue to infest the Colony, still their +signal-fires are visible from the town, and still the cattle are +captured and recaptured, and poor settlers are found murdered in their +homesteads. Much anxiety is felt for the result of Sir Andries +Stockenstrom's expedition into Kreli's country. It is to be hoped he +will make no treaty with that treacherous chief, that can in any way +compromise the Governor." + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + +Note 1. The Kaffirs are in the habit of burying their chiefs, but no +other dead. + +Note 2. It is the general custom of the Kaffirs to leave an old woman +in a kraal as a spy. They manage to keep up a constant communication +with her, and supply her with food. + +Note 3. Captain Donovan nearly lost his life on the banks of the +Gwanga, on the day of the memorable action there. On reaching a drift, +whither he had led his horse to drink, four or five Kaffirs suddenly +rushed upon him. His rifle was on the ground, and there was no time to +draw his sword, before the musket of a savage was levelled at his head. +A man named Brown, formerly a private in the 75th Regiment, coming up at +this instant, snatched up Captain Donovan's rifle, and shot the Kaffir +dead on the spot. + + + +PART TWO, CHAPTER NINE. + +EXTRACTS FROM JOURNAL. + +"September 13th. Sir Peregrine Maitland is moving with his division +towards the Fish River mouth. A report is in circulation that Faku, the +Amaponda Chief, has come down upon Kreli's country. This is not to be +desired. Faku is a man of immense power, with a great number of people, +who will be ready to creep into the Colony at all points for plunder. + +"Among our allies employed with the army are 150 Bushmen, with poisoned +arrows. [It was some of these who were exhibited lately in England.] +The Kaffirs have great dread of these `new assegais,' which are barbed, +and cannot be extracted without additional injury to the wounds they +inflict. + +"More intelligence has been received relative to Sir Andries +Stockenstrom's expedition to the Kei. The capture of 7,000 head of +cattle is cheering and important; but the treaty appears a sorry affair. + +"Kama, the Christian Chief, has proved himself worthy of our confidence +and respect. With the few followers who have remained true to him and +us, he has been, as far as lay in his power, an active and efficient +ally in defence of the district to which he was driven by the threat of +assassination from his half-brother, Pato. Hermanus, too, has, I am +told, been true to us for many years; but of him I know nothing +personally. We were always glad to receive Kama in our cottage at Fort +Peddie. It is proposed to give these friendly chiefs the land in the +ceded territory, hitherto occupied by Tola and Botman--Gaikas. + +"September 9th.--We learn that General Maitland has reached the mouth of +the Fish River; but he finds it necessary to contract the line of +forces, so to speak. Much impatience is manifested by people `sitting +still' themselves, at the delay in military operations. It is said, +`With such a force the Kaffirs ought long since to have been crushed.' +To use a lady's simile, a skein of thread is a simple thing to unwind +when fresh from the weaver's hands; but, when once entangled, it +requires time and patience to unravel it. + +"Although the enemy are yet considered to be well supplied with powder, +their bullets are often found to be of zinc, taken from the roofs they +have destroyed. These are so light that they generally fly over the +heads they are intended to strike. The chiefs desire peace, but on +their own terms. Macomo has presented himself at Fort Cox to +Lieutenant-Colonel Campbell, 91st Regiment. Sandilla is `in the bush.' +This wild child of nature dreads our making a prisoner of him. None but +Stock have as yet consented to give up their arms. Nonnebe (General +Campbell's great-grand-daughter!) protests that she wishes for peace, +but that Seyolo `has his hand on her shoulder, and keeps her down.' +Sonto, Stock's half-brother, calls Stock, `a woman;' and says he, Sonto, +is not weary of the war; he has plenty of men, horses, and plunder, and +will not give in. The `moon is dead,' and where is the promised cattle +from Stock? Colonel Somerset, with his division, consisting of the Cape +Corps, some Artillery, part of the 7th Dragoon Guards, and a detachment +of the 45th, has gone over to the Keiskama. The troops are to be pitied +in these rains; they must encounter difficulties and privations under +the floods that are deluging the land. + +"Before Stock left Peddie, he sent the double-barrelled gun, which +Colonel Somerset restored to him at the Gwanga, as a present to Sir +Peregrine Maitland. + +"A plan has been submitted to the Governor for the formation of +settlements and locations for the coloured population under our +Government. The intention is to take in a vast tract of land, and many +men will be required to protect so large a territory. + +"The inferior Kaffirs must have learned by this time that their chiefs +have promised more than they could perform; they find that, although +they can harass and evade, they cannot `drive the white man into the +sea;' that, although they may occasionally stop our convoys, other roads +are readily thrown open. They steal our cattle, nay, the poor oxen die +in our service, on the depastured line of march, and lo! ships, +`sea-waggons,' present themselves on the coast of Kaffirland! It is +deplorable that the 73rd should be driven out of Waterloo Bay. There is +no safe harbour there for large vessels, but ships may slip their cables +and run out to sea, in case of danger. The 73rd, having made their +appearance at Waterloo Bay on the 3rd of September, and been driven back +to Simon's Bay, have landed at Port Elizabeth, and marched from thence +on the 21st. While at anchor in Waterloo Bay, they observed the +blackened state of the country on both sides of the Fish River mouth, +and some of them stating at Simon's Bay that the grass was burned at +Fort Dacres, and opposite to it, a report was raised in Cape Town that +Waterloo Bay was burned! + +"Sir Andries Stockenstrom has given his Burghers leave to retire to +their homes, for the purpose of planting their land. The Malay force +have represented that their period of service has already expired; the +Burghers in the General's division have requested the same indulgence as +those under Sir Andries, and the liberated Africans will be making the +same demand. On looking at these latter happy, healthy, free creatures, +we cannot sufficiently rejoice at their freedom, however we may +deprecate the manner in which the emancipation principle was carried +out. Very different are these well-clad negroes to those who in old +times formed the West India Militia, to whom their officers addressed +the following words of command:--`All dem wid shoe and tocking tan in de +front; all dem wid shoe and no tocking tan behind; all dem wid no shoe +and no tocking tan in de middle!' + +"A few nights since, the Malays held a meeting to celebrate the festival +of their new year. We were induced to look in at the scene of the +_fete_ for a short time. The only thing worth hearing was the war-song, +which, although very simple, is very inspiring, chiefly from the +enthusiasm with which it is sung. The choruses present many beautiful +combinations of a peculiar kind, from the circumstance of the singers +being ignorant of the rules of music. The group was picturesque. A +priest in white robes, in a posture between sitting and kneeling, +occupied the chief place at the head of the apartment, which was a long +low room, dimly lit, except above the mats whereon the singers were +assembled, without their shoes. This end was garlanded with flowers and +foliage, and illuminated by a not ungraceful lantern of Chinese +appearance, ornamented with coloured tapers. The priest, and his two +churchwardens, as they were called, were distinguished by green tufts in +their turbans, and led the chant, which was taken up and chorussed by +the rest with spirit. + +"The other part of the room was undecorated; here and there, a solitary +candle on a shelf above cast a dim light on the head of some mustachioed +Dutch Burgher; and, beside him, in strong contrast, was the +comparatively slight English soldier. At one point, a knot of +Hottentots congregated together, joining in the chorus, and, snapping +their fingers, seemed ready to dance to it; while on the lap of a +dark-faced nurse, slumbered a fair infant, resembling one of Chantrey's +charming pieces of sculpture. + +"Some weeks ago, a Malay was buried near this. The grave was very deep; +within it were placed a number of planks in a slanting position, forming +a kind of penthouse, and within this was laid the body, sewn up in +canvas cloth, and so placed as not to touch the side of the tomb. Some +biscuit, a pipe, and some tobacco were left within the penthouse beside +the corpse, and it was then covered in. The ceremony was closed by a +party assembling round the grave, and continuing in silent prayer for +two hours, at least. + +"Colonel Somerset has returned from his expedition across the Keiskama, +having captured three thousand head of cattle. But for the heavy rains, +more might have been taken. The troops were in a deluge, and we hear of +many suffering from rheumatism, the effects of being obliged to lie down +actually in the mud, while a flood descended from the heavens. One +passage in Colonel Somerset's dispatch reminds one of Lord Hill's +surprise of Girard. `Making a night march with seven hundred and fifty +men, to the Gakoon river, I established myself at midnight in the midst +of Umhala's tribe, without their having the slightest intimation of my +move. Lying _perdu_ till day-dawn, I dispersed the troops in various +directions, and, although the enemy drove off their cattle and abandoned +their kraals, I pursued them to the Gonube River, and by mid-day had +secured three thousand head of very superior cattle, with a few horses,' +etc. In this affair twenty-two of the enemy were killed. + +"Now, although no one is going to compare the Kaffir foe to our brave +but inveterate enemies in the Peninsula, a great deal more exertion is +necessary to get at them--as well as indomitable patience and +considerable skill. The idea of upwards of seven hundred men making +stealthy way into the midst of a savage tribe, in spite of spies and +watch-dogs, is wonderful, when we consider the difficulties attending a +march at any time in such a country; and the capture of cattle for +starving troops was a matter of more importance than a more glittering +conquest. Goethe, in describing a disastrous march in 1792, consoles +himself and his friends by affirming that they had been vanquished `not +by the enemy but by the elements.' Since the war began, the British +cause in South Africa has had to contend with every element. + +"September 20th.--The Lieutenant-Governor, Colonel Hare, has arrived in +Graham's Town. Every one is acquainted with Colonel Hare's character as +a brave soldier. Of his abilities as a diplomatist he can scarcely be a +fair judge himself. + +"October 14th.--Graham's Town is crowded with troops. The Drostdy +Square presents a very different appearance to what it did six months +ago, when the enemy was hovering round us. The second division of the +45th have commenced their march to the Fish River mouth. The 73rd have +just marched in; they have been indeed unfortunate on their way hither, +both by sea and land, and were nearly lost at Waterloo Bay, and driven +back some hundred miles for chains and anchors. They have been detained +between Algoa Bay and Graham's Town by the floods that deluged Colonel +Somerset's path. It is said the 73rd are to proceed eventually to the +Buffalo mouth, where a steamer will probably be sent with supplies. The +anchorage there will be surveyed: it is supposed to be superior to +Waterloo Bay. + +"On the 30th of September, a meeting took place between the Gaika tribes +and the Deputy of the British Government, Lieutenant-Colonel Johnstone, +27th Regiment, at the request of the Gaikas. Mr Calderwood, +missionary, was present, besides several other persons. The scene of +the assemblage was `the bush.' + +"The Governor's terms, offered and interpreted by Mr Calderwood, were +these:--Firstly. That the tribes should lay down their arms. Secondly. +That they should restore the colonial cattle. Thirdly, That the +country as far as the Kei should be placed under British rule--those +Kaffirs who remain on this side submitting to such regulations as may be +made for their future government. + +"Macomo, Sandilla's uncle, appeared much dejected. He is the only one +of the Gaika chiefs who may be said to be really anxious for peace. +Some time since, he sent his eldest son an order not to fight. The +dutiful son replied, that Macomo was a `drunken coward, and only wished +for peace for the sake of the canteen.' At the meeting the others +expressed themselves pretty much as they had previously done. They +stated that they had never heard of a conquered people being called upon +to give up their arms: that they had bought them openly from British +traders [Notre]; that, as for the cattle, most of them were dead; that +they were tired of the war, and would not fight any more--they were +`under our feet;' that our convoys might move through the countries +unmolested; that we might slay the thieves now plundering the Colony-- +they were a banditti under no control; and that, `if we were resolved to +continue the war, we must slay them at the doors of their huts.'!!! +Cunning savages! they know that British troops will never kill +unresisting men, much less the miserable tillers of the ground, the poor +women of Kaffirland, and they imagine we are yet to be imposed upon. + +"As Mr Calderwood approached Beaufort, on his way to this peaceful +meeting, an assegai passed across him, thrown by the hand of some savage +assassin. Eight Kaffirs sprang out of a bush close by, and Mr +Calderwood and the Cape Corps orderly following him, galloped onwards +into the town, scarcely half a mile distant. Probably, two days after +this occurrence, these very men were among those `in the bush,' who +said, `their hearts were heavy; the teacher's word was no longer good; +they were under our feet,' etc, etc! or of that party which, on +encountering a detachment of the 91st, between Block Drift and Fort Cox, +threw themselves on the ground, and suffered the troops to pass on. + +"There is, however, no doubt that the inferior Kaffirs are heartily +tired of the war, and suffering from disease, in consequence of +starvation, cold, and change of diet. Some are living on the sea-shore, +on shell-fish; this shows their state of destitution, as they have not +hitherto been accustomed to eat fish of any description. Many would be +glad to be under British rule; for, in spite of their old notions of +chieftainship, and habits of vassalage, they have discovered how +completely they have been misled and disappointed by their chiefs. Last +February, when the 27th appeared at the mouth of the Kowie, they were +extremely astonished; and, had they landed, it would have had a salutary +effect. The disembarkation of a regiment like the Rifle Brigade at the +Buffalo, in the heart of Kaffirland, would go far towards convincing +these heathens more than ever of the power of the `Children of the foam, +whose great sea-waggons from the broad waters spit forth red men.' + +"October 19th.--The General's camp has been deluged. Colonel Somerset +returned from the Keiskama in the midst of torrents; the wind blew in +such heavy gales, that the encampment, after a tempestuous night, +occasionally presented a deficiency in tents. Here lay a sleeper +overpowered with fatigue, quite unconscious that his canopy was removed, +there a medley assortment of camp equipage, also shelterless, the tent +that covered it blown many yards away, and flattened in the mud. The +poor half-starved horses, with their tails turned towards the driving +rain, and quite crest-fallen, neighed joyfully on the approach of any +human being, in hopes of food. None to be had. The `Catherine' lies a +wreck upon the shore at Waterloo Bay, with little chance of saving her +cargo of forage, none of landing it for some time, if saved." + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + +Note 1. This sale of arms and ammunition to the Kaffirs was prohibited +by the Dutch Government, but had been tolerated by the Stockenstrom +treaties; it is now again very properly forbidden. + + + +PART TWO, CHAPTER TEN. + +DECEITFUL OVERTURES FROM THE ENEMY. + +Early in November, Sir Peregrine Maitland moved towards Block Drift. He +was accompanied by the 90th, under Lieutenant-Colonel Slade; the reserve +battalion of the 45th under Lieutenant-Colonel Erskine; a troop of the +7th Dragoon Guards; and some artillery. By the end of the month, all +the principal Gaika chiefs had sent in most abject messages, and were as +humble in appearance as they were insincere in spirit. + +Sandilla, in spite of his affected humility, was sullen, and perhaps +among them all the only one in any way anxious for peace was Macomo. + +The General, from the first, declared his intention of receiving them +only as common individuals, no longer recognising one any of them as a +Chief of Kaffirland. Sandilla and the rest of them brought in a few +cattle, and some rusty arms; these tributes were refused, and the +ex-Chiefs were granted another truce of ten days, to bring in the +quantity of cattle demanded--namely, twenty thousand head--together with +five hundred horses, and eighteen hundred guns. + +At the time this truce was made there were good reasons for it. The +General was awaiting his reinforcements, the Rifle Brigade and 6th +Regiment being still on their tedious way from Algoa Bay; and the +Commissary-General, Mr Palmer, was actively exerting himself to fill +the exhausted stores: the cattle were only beginning to recover from the +effects of the long droughts, and there were but few fresh horses in the +field. Thus, to us, time was of the utmost importance. At this period, +damaged biscuit was served out for the horses, and the Fingo women at +Fort Beaufort were well paid to cut grass for the starving chargers. +Much sickness prevailed, too, in the camps, owing to bad diet, cold, and +fatigue. + +Still, Colonel Somerset contrived to be on the alert, with such men and +horses as he could muster. The guns from his division soon sent their +thundering echoes along the banks of the Buffalo, and Stock made his +second appearance at Fort Peddie, with a number of his followers, +presenting six or eight muskets, and forty-eight head of cattle; the +latter he declared to be "his whole share of the colonial plunder." +Stock had the hardihood to bring in, among the tributary cattle, some of +the oxen taken from the waggons at Trumpeter's Drift, on the 28th of +May; in which affair he had always professed to have had no share. + +All this time the Kaffirs were creeping into the Colony, sweeping off +sheep and cattle, waylaying the settlers, and hanging about the +different drifts, watching their opportunity of crossing them +unobserved. That these banditti were in a starving condition was +well-known. One of the most daring robberies was committed at Oatlands, +the residence of Colonel Somerset, within half a mile from the town, the +cattle being whistled off at night by three Kaffirs. They were pursued +the next morning by a party of Cape Mounted Riflemen, under Ensign +Salis; the oxen were recaptured in a dense bush, but the thieves +escaped. + +The Governor had now to contend with the disaffection that prevailed +among the irregular forces. These men complained that the promises made +to them, regarding some provision for their families, from whom they +were separated, had not been carried into effect. I subjoin an account +of the mutiny of the Swellendam Native Infantry, under the command of +Captain Hogg, 7th Dragoon Guards. The mutiny took place during the +absence of Captain Hogg, who had proceeded to the Governor's camp, near +Waterloo Bay, to make a personal representation of the grievances +complained of by his men. + +On Friday, the 23rd of October, Captain Ward, 91st Regiment, Fort +Adjutant and Acting Commandant of Fort Beaufort, warned a hundred men of +the Swellendam Native Infantry to be in readiness to march on Saturday +morning, as an escort for waggons proceeding to Waterloo Bay. The men +were much pleased with this order, as they wished to speak with the +General on the subject of their complaints. On Saturday morning, +however, Captain Ward was informed that the whole of the Swellendam +Native Infantry were parading in the great square of the town, and in +the face of their officers; and, before the Commandant had time to +remonstrate with them, the men, to the number of three hundred and +fifty, faced to the left, and marched off in the direction of Graham's +Town. He was immediately requested by Major Smith, 27th Regiment, +Deputy Quartermaster-General, to follow the mutineers with the troops, +and to stop their progress. For this purpose, Captain Ward went over to +the barracks, to order the bugler to sound the "alarm," but he was not +at hand. The Commandant then ordered six of the sappers and two +artillerymen to run the 3-pounder howitzer out, and follow him. This +was immediately done, and he proceeded down the street in double time, +with the gun, towards the bridge, in the hope of getting there before +the men: but some of them called out from the rear, that the "cannons +were coming," and the mutineers in advance stepped out. Captain Ward +pushed on, and, on reaching the bridge, ordered the gun to be put in +action, and fired three rounds of blank ammunition to the left--not on +the mutineers,--as a signal for support from the military. Captain Ward +would have been unwise to follow the mutineers with only eight men, and +no protection for the gun. The blank firing scattered the Swellendam +people, who rushed up the hill over the bridge, and took up a position +on the top of it. This hill, like many South African acclivities, is a +natural defence, very steep, and covered with stone, and low bush or +scrub. + +In the mean time, the few mutineers who had followed in the rear of the +gun were passing Captain Ward, who then turned round and desired the +artillery not to fire until he gave the order. He then rushed in among +the mutineers for the purpose of securing a prisoner; and, seizing the +firelock of one, opened the pan, and then had a scuffle with him, until +a Mr Cumming, of Fort Beaufort, came to his assistance and held the +man. Captain Ward followed up and laid hold of another, who might have +proved a match for him, had not Mr B.D. Bell, of Fort Beaufort, come +forward and assisted in securing him. Soon after, eighty men of the +90th, who happened to be at Beaufort on escort duty, advanced to the +assistance of the Commandant, who immediately gave orders to limber up +the gun and follow the mutineers, when he received an order from Colonel +Richardson to let them go on. The reason for this was as follows. The +Rev Mr Beaver, the clergyman of our Established Church at Fort +Beaufort, on learning the step these misguided men had taken, +immediately volunteered his services to follow them and to bring them +back. In this offer he was seconded by Mr Calderwood, the missionary. +The services of these two gentlemen were immediately accepted by Colonel +Richardson, and this was decidedly a preferable step to the following +three hundred and fifty mutineers up a steep acclivity with a handful of +men. The result was, that Mr Beaver and Mr Calderwood succeeding in +persuading most of them to return, and would no doubt have induced the +rest to accompany them back to Beaufort had they overtaken them, but +these were too far in advance. + +I have given this statement from Captain Ward's own in a letter written +just after the occurrence, and never intended for publication. One or +two other statements appeared in the Colonial prints at the time, but +these gave a partial and rather incorrect view of the case, deprecating +the plan of firing blank cartridge, without knowing the reason; and, be +it remembered, the writers of these accounts from Beaufort were not with +Captain Ward at the moment of the occurrence. Sixty-three of the +mutineers came on to Graham's Town, to renew their complaints to Captain +Hogg, who had already represented their grievances. I am unable to say +whether they obtained redress or not; probably not as soon as they +anticipated, for shortly afterwards they again mutinied, when a +detachment of the 40th was marched against them, and they were compelled +to obey orders. + +Mr Beaver's conduct was humane and judicious in this affair. Colonel +Richardson did wisely in accepting his proffered services, instead of +risking men's lives in a fray; and Mr Calderwood's ready assistance was +praiseworthy and valuable. + +Unfortunately, a Serjeant of the 91st, when near the wooden bridge on +the other side of the river, fired at one of the Swellendam Native +Infantry, and wounded him, but not severely. This piece of folly was +interlarded with the account of the mutiny, by which the public would +infer that it was committed with the knowledge and in the presence of +the officer. + +It was quite reviving to see the arrivals of stores and mule-waggons, +during the period of the truce. Seven Field Officers were also imported +from England, and thus disposed of: Lieutenant-Colonel Nicolls, as +Commandant at Beaufort; Major Wetenhall, late 10th Regiment, of Waterloo +Bay; and Major O'Grady, late 2nd Regiment, was appointed to the command +of the Levies in Graham's Town. Lieutenant-Colonels Mackinnon, Napier, +and Montresor, were employed with the General's division, and Major +Storks, late 38th Regiment, with the 2nd division, under Colonel +Somerset. + +The great misfortune hitherto attendant on the war had been the +impoverished state of the Commissariat; but now, while we were gaining +time and making fresh preparations for a renewal of hostilities, the +enemy were growing hungry. Their women were their foragers for roots, +and these poor creatures had carried powder and provisions for them from +one stronghold to another for many months. + +Wherever these savages found it impracticable to take away the whole of +the cattle they had stolen, they killed what they must otherwise have +left to fall into our hands; and, cutting it up into strips, hung it +about the bush, in the densest thickets, to dry, thus providing for +their friends, who were acquainted with these (probably +long-established) primitive larders. Meat thus dried and hung up is +called _biltong_, and is by no means bad when grated. + +The remains of Captain Sandes, Cape Mounted Rifles, were at last +discovered on the Debe flats, near the side of the road leading to Fort +Wiltshire, by a party of his own regiment, who were patrolling in that +neighbourhood. A letter was found in the pocket of his jacket, and his +eye-glass lay near him; by these, and his dress, he was identified. +Here Mr Macdonald, a young Ensign of the Cape Corps, caused a grave to +be dug by the soldiers, with their swords: "_Not a drum was heard, not a +funeral note_," at that melancholy burial, in the solitary plains of +Africa, and though it may be little thought of beyond the suffering +friends and relations of that poor murdered man, the circumstances of +his death, fighting alone and desperately as he did through hordes of +savages in their first moments of ferocious excitement, must ever, when +spoken of, awaken the sympathy and regret of his countrymen. The +discovery of his remains was the only consolation left to his +unfortunate widow, who only awaited this to leave the land which had +brought her so much misery. It would have been intrusive to have +troubled her with empty condolences, but there were those who felt +deeply for her, and longed to assure her of their sympathy. + +Lieutenant Lewes, of the 27th Regiment, met his death by accident, +falling from his horse against the tressel-boom of a waggon. He +lingered only a short time afterwards, and lies buried near the Camp at +Fort Cox, mourned by all his brother officers, who were sincerely +attached to him, and regretted by all who were acquainted with his +honest-heartedness and kindly disposition. + +If any proof were wanting of the innate villainy of the Kaffirs, it +would be furnished by what occurred during the time. Stock's people, in +passing by Newtondale, formerly a mission station, twelve miles from +Fort Peddie, being hospitably sheltered and fed there by a party +guarding that spot, the repentant chief repaid this kindness by walking +off at dawn with what cattle his people could drive away! At Fort Hare, +Macomo began his usual career of drunkenness, maltreating his wives, +and, in a fit of passion, striking one of his children dead out of its +mother's arms! At times, he is in a perfectly frantic state, riding +wildly about the neighbourhood of the General's camp, in an old uniform. +The last time I saw him was at a moment of peace. The band of the 7th +was playing some choice pieces, and Macomo, in a blue coat and brass +buttons, trousers with a broad red stripe, and a well-burnished dragoon +helmet, stood by, calmly listening, with equal attention, to a set of +lively polkas, and next to a glorious air from "Lucrezia Borgia." Music +has the most soothing effect on a Kaffir. The savage, Umhala, has been +known to shed tears, and retire from observation, on hearing the band of +a regiment playing in Graham's Town. + +Now that the fighting is over, I confess I should like to see a foray. +I have witnessed the march of a Commando, but in this there is little +excitement. The sound of the trumpet among the wild mountains in +Africa, the "upsaddling" from a state of calm repose--the "assembling"-- +the steady forward movement--the gradual hum of voices on the look-out-- +the first sight of cattle quietly grazing in some wooded kloof--the +dusky forms that are seen creeping away, bewitching the cattle on--the +extending the cavalry, who spread themselves out in all directions, and +dash at full speed, in parties of two and three, towards the thieves and +their prey, must make a picture of no ordinary interest. Then, the hunt +through the bush--the flying up and down short cuts, to intercept the +enemy, or drive him into an open plain--more resembles the hunting some +wild animal than any thing else; while, in the distance, the Kaffir +scouts and videttes, who dot the hill-sides, are seen skimming along the +mountain-ridges, with news of the fray, to their friends. + +"November 25th.--We have had melancholy proof of the sickness in the +field in the death of Captain Knight, 7th Dragoon Guards. Although he +went into the field in good health, the cold and privation he endured on +service in a few weeks laid him on his death-bed, with disease of the +liver. In his military career, he was most fortunate, obtaining his +commission as Cornet in the 7th in 1841, and his troop, by the death of +Captain Bambrick, killed in action at Burn's Hill, on the 16th of April, +1846." + +We met Captain Knight's funeral in the streets of Graham's town to-day. +The party consisted of but few troops; and the Hottentot soldiers of the +Cape Corps, in their bush dress, green-jackets, and leather trowsers, +with haversacks slung across their shoulders, ready for the field, gave +a service-like appearance to the procession, creating melancholy +emotions, apart from the principal object of the mournful cavalcade. +The charger, which had carried his master through the actions in the +Amatolas, moved on, unconscious of its sad trappings, and the dirge that +wailed through the lately blockaded streets was in strange contrast with +the echoes that had formerly filled them from the rifles on the hills. + +"The 6th Regiment, under Lieutenant-Colonel Michel, presents so youthful +an appearance, that some of the recruits look anything but suited to the +service here. Two hundred of them have never yet been taught to handle +a musket. Such a country as this is very disheartening to a zealous +Commanding Officer, who finds his men and officers scattered in all +directions, with no prospect of seeing them in a body till he lands in +England. The Rifle Brigade have taken the coloured population by +surprise, as hitherto all soldiers from England have been _Roed +Batjes_--red-jackets. They have named the Rifle Brigade the `English +Cape Corps.'" + +As the enemy began to succumb, and to mingle with the people in our +camps, we heard various details connected with the war for which we were +not prepared. It was learnt that the Gaikas, under Sandilla, seriously +meditated an onslaught on our handful of troops, under Colonel Hare, at +Block Drift, on the 26th of January, 1846. These are the particulars, +as related by the Kaffirs. Besides the three thousand warriors drawn up +in front of Colonel Hare's force of scarcely three hundred men, there +were immense numbers collected on the hill-sides, and in the ravines. +Women were there, too, watching for the signal, which was to be the +waving of a kaross by a chief. It was stated, also, that, as soon as +this signal was given, the scout on the point of a hill attempted to +obey it, as he had been desired,--namely, by firing off his piece; but +three times it missed fire, and he gave it up. No response followed the +raising the tiger-skin banner, and the result was the breaking-up of the +conference, and the safe return of the troops to quarters. It is most +probable the armed scout was deterred by superstitious motives from +trying a fourth time to give the signal of destruction. Had the Gaikas +risen _en masse_, as was intended, what a fearful slaughter there would +have been at the moment, and how terrible would have been the effect on +this devoted Colony! + +The day that meeting took place, my little girl and I were travelling +with a small party, on horseback, through the bush not far from Block +Drift. Captain Bambrick had accompanied us part of the way on the first +day's journey: it was the last time I ever saw him. As we wound along a +splendid road, lately made between Post Victoria and Botha's Post, a +distance of nine miles, I looked up the mountain-sides, clothed with +euphorbia, mimosa, and innumerable shrubs, and observed that probably +those silent thickets were tenanted by human beings, who could watch our +progress unobserved. We had no fear. "The word had not been given to +kill;" and, though they were not aware of this expression on the part of +the Kaffirs, we had every reason to believe they would never fire the +first shot. I am doubtful as to the truth of the premeditated onslaught +at Block Drift; for they did not fire the first shot in the Amatola +Mountains. + +The account of one death in the ranks of the 91st Regiment, on the first +day's action in the Amatolas, affected me sincerely when I heard it. +Gibb, a soldier, who was much exhausted with the march up the mountain, +was allowed to mount the horse of an officer's servant, and was shot +dead soon after. The melancholy task of informing his younger brother-- +a bugler, attached to the grenadier company--of his loss, fell to the +lot of the Captain of that company. The poor fellow was shocked at the +intelligence; but, at the moment he heard it, the enemy were pressing +on; the grenadiers were ordered to advance in skirmishing order, the +cavalry were coming up in support, and it was necessary to sound the +bugle to extend. The officer, feeling for the young soldier, bid him +calm his emotion, if possible, at such a moment: he obeyed as well as he +could; and after various attempts to sound his instrument, did so at +last, with tears running down his face in showers. What thoughts of +home and of parents' faces, and sorrowing voices, were passing through +that poor fellow's heart at the moment of excitement and danger! What +memories of early times, when he and his brother had played as children +together! [Note 1.] + +"15th December.--Another movement is to take place over the Kei, into +Kreli's country. At the commencement of hostilities, a body of Fingoes +were located, to the amount of three thousand, east of the Kei. These +soon found that Kreli was in league with the tribes near the colony, +from the circumstance that many of his best men were creeping towards +it. Large droves of fine colonial cattle were passed over into the +forests of the Bashee. The resident Agent and the members of the +missionary department, with five hundred Fingoes, took refuge with the +Amapondas, farther east, where they must have suffered great privations. +What must be the sufferings of the women and children in such difficult +straits! The women are most to be pitied, since their misery arises +from anxiety of mind, and this is worse to bear than a host of physical +evils. Two thousand five hundred Fingoes remained with their families +and cattle in the district of Kreli, who has certainly displayed great +tact in avoiding all open collision with our dependents. Faku, it will +be remembered, is the terrible Zoolah Chief, who spares neither women +nor children, but who, with his tribe of warriors, drives all before him +at the point of a short assegai. With this weapon, these people close +upon their enemy, and stab him. The Fingoes in Kreli's neighbourhood +have been permitted to keep their ground and cattle; Kreli would not +choose to meddle with them, because they are our allies, while Faku had +probably some dread of the good musket in their hands, a weapon +ill-suited to the Zoolah spear. Faku's tribe, it is said, resemble the +Mantatees in their cannibal propensities, only indulged, however, after +an unsuccessful foray in search of plunder, or provision. The Mantatees +are a tribe farther north than the Zoolahs. It has been determined to +march into Kreli's Country, in consequence of the discovery, that Kreli +has been the receiver-general of the enemy's plunder. The 27th have +been ordered from the head-quarter division at Fort Hare, to join +Colonel Somerset--Number 2 division--and advance towards the Kei. +Whether they will cross it, appears very uncertain. It is perfectly +well-known now, that, besides the Gaikas, Pato, Umhala, Sonto, Seyolo, +etc, have made Kreli's Country their depot for stolen colonial cattle. + +"Sutu, the mother of Sandilla, has made her appearance at Fort Hare, +wishing to surrender herself, and to make intercession for her son. To +this latter request, the General has replied, he does not war with +women, and can enter into no negotiations with them. Sutu is an aged +woman, of a size that would befit the wife of a Daniel Lambert. She is +very infirm, and would have gladly have given herself up long ago, but +was not permitted by Sandilla to have any communication with the English +authorities. This young Gaika tyrant was once on the point of roasting +his mother alive! and she was only saved from this fearful doom by +British interference. + +"Colonel Somerset has made two successful forays across the Keiskama; +and, besides re-capturing some fine colonial cattle, has brought the +I'Slambies to implore for peace. After the first expedition, Umhala, +Nonnebe, and Seyolo presented themselves with their abject and deceptive +protestations at his camp on the Chalmuna river. + +"In the second expedition, from which he returned not many days ago, +four hundred head of cattle were taken, and the notorious Chief, Pato, +narrowly escaped falling into the hands of the troops, but concealed +himself in a cave. He has since sent in to beg that he may give himself +up, if permitted to do so. The Government will be puzzled how to act +towards him; he has been our most treacherous, troublesome, and +determined enemy. + +"In the first foray two of the Cape Corps were killed, through their own +imprudence. They stopped to drink milk in a Kaffir hut, where there +were some women. The latter slipped away, and gave warning to some men +concealed in a kloof near the kraal, who, on learning that but two were +to be opposed, came upon them at once, and murdered them both. One poor +Hottentot, in his dying moments, brought down his Kaffir foe. + +"In the second expedition, on the 24th and 25th November, the Rifle +Brigade proved a most efficient force. + +"On the 17th December, we learn that Sandilla has at last surrendered +himself at Fort Hare, bringing in about forty head of cattle, and +several muskets and carbines taken from the waggons at Burn's Hill, on +the 17th of April, and giving up the two prisoners demanded by Colonel +Hare in February and then refused. One was the axe-stealer; the other +the murderer of the Hottentot. They were lodged in gaol. Another +prisoner, who accompanied them, died the night he entered his prison; +and, some time afterwards, the Kaffirs, affecting to suspect poison, +requested permission to examine the body, which was accordingly exhumed; +but was too much decomposed to allow of the forming any opinion on the +subject." + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + +Note 1. Another soldier of the 91st met with a cruel death at the hands +of the savages. Being too much exhausted to ascend the Amatolas, he sat +down by the way side. At night, when the roll was called, poor Ewell +was missing. The Kaffirs admit, too, that they took him through the +bush to a spot where some of their Chiefs were assembled with many +warriors. Here they tied their victim to a stake, and literally flayed +him alive; the little children being permitted to assist in tormenting +him. Oh, "pastoral and peaceful people!" The Kaffirs said that they +imagined the grenadiers of the 91st could not be killed, as the balls +appeared to glance harmlessly past them. Mr Cochrane, however, was +wounded three times on the last day in the Amatolas. + + + +PART TWO, CHAPTER ELEVEN. + +APPOINTMENT OF SIR HENRY POTTINGER. + +The expedition across the Kei was still the theme of expectation during +the month of December, 1846. Sir Andries Stockenstrom's command of the +Burgher Forces had been deputed to Captain Sutton, Cape Mounted Rifles, +who was to proceed across the Kei in the intended foray. + +At this time I wrote in my journal, "This is certainly an extraordinary +warfare. The enemy are coming into our camps eighty at a time, +enrolling themselves as British subjects, and obtaining cattle, which +they assert to be their own, and even horses; while we are marching +troops into Kaffirland, seizing plunder and meeting with little open +resistance, but running the chance of being murdered, as the Cape Corps +soldiers, were, in the hut. It is certainly very difficult to +understand. + +"The attention of the public has been lately called to an article in the +Leeds Mercury, asserting that `the present war has been forced upon the +British Government by the settlers.' Now, this assertion of a +`correspondent of undoubted veracity,' that `the colonists have +tormented the Governor into this war,' and that they `thirst for Kaffir +blood,' is vicious in its purpose, and utterly opposed to truth. The +colonists have lived in alarm and uncertainty for ten years. Waste of +time and property have never been considered, and many lives have been +sacrificed on both sides in consequence of the aggressions of the border +tribes on the unprotected farmers! No other nation than England would +have permitted her settlers to bear the insults and depredations +suffered by British emigrants at the hands of these heathen robbers, who +have been permitted to arm themselves and to make every preparation for +war during a period of three years, and this in the ceded territory +between Kaffirland and the colony. Those who assert that the present +Kaffir war has not been forced upon the British Government by the +Kaffirs, are the enemies of their countrymen, and no friends to the +heathen. We have too long attempted to civilise him by indulgent +measures, and have not even established such laws for the security of +the industrious settlers against the aggressions of these barbarous +thieves, as would be considered necessary defences against any civilised +Christian neighbours, whose characters and customs are opposed to our +own. Sir Peregrine Maitland is the last man to allow `a people +thirsting for blood' to torment him into `deeds of violence;' and, had +not the colonists an implicit reliance on his justice, they might fear, +from the present aspect of affairs, that his humanity might cause him to +relax in his demands on the Kaffirs for compensation for cattle. They +are at present, indeed, subdued by terror at the sight of our +reinforcements, but are far from being humbled, or convinced: their +humility is feigned, their apparent conviction and submission are +exhibited in the sulkiest moods. I much doubt their system of +non-resistance lasting beyond the season for gathering in their corn. +However, as Talleyrand said of the Bourbons' return, `C'est le +commencement de la fin.' Matters now must be brought to a close, not +speedily, and perhaps not satisfactorily. Already the colonists say, +`We shall have another war ten years hence.' The military hoping to +leave the Colony, rejoice in the prospect of home; those lately come out +wear rueful countenances,--visions of solitary outposts, of commandos, +of no society, of continued discomfort, disgust the young soldiers just +arrived, and promise no good will in the performance of their duties. + +"At Fort Hare, they are endeavouring to drive away ennui by hack races, +or any kind of amusement which easily presents itself. The listlessness +of a camp life is too often complained of to need comment. In this +Colony it is worse than ever, since books are obtained with difficulty, +And the heat and glare render the tent habitations very trying to the +patience as well as to the constitution. The sight especially suffers, +and several officers and men have been rendered incapable of duty from +inflammation of the eyes. + +"Macomo's eldest daughter is the belle of the camp; she is one of +nature's coquettes, and attitudinises, exhibits her teeth, affects +bashfulness, or mirth, as suits the taste of her admirers, and is as +great an adept in the art of mute flirtation as any beauty at Almack's, +or Ascot. + +"December 6th.--We hear that Umhala has come into Colonel Somerset's +camp, offering to give us three hundred head of cattle, and bring with +him two hundred and fifty of his people, tendering his submission to +Captain Maclean, late 27th Regiment, and now the Agent between the +British Government and the I'Slambie tribes. His adhesion is accepted +on the understanding that he can never be recognised as a chief, but +merely as a Kaffir; that the British are not anxious for peace, unless +arranged satisfactorily and honourably, that if he wishes for war he had +better avow it honestly than propose terms which he may intend to +violate, and that he had better now make his decision without duplicity. +In reply to this, Umhala remarked that `the war had lasted too long, +since the corps of the Kaffirs were suffering in consequence of the +delay.' Very cool! `His arms and those of his people had been left on +the plains of the Gwanga! He had but two alternatives. One was to +place himself at the Governor's disposal, the other to be dependent on +Kreli. He found he could depend upon the honour of the British! whereas +he could not place confidence in any Chief of his own land!' etc. + +"After he and his people had been duly registered, they all moved over +the Buffalo, and are to remain there until matters shall be more +definitively settled. + +"Umhala's alternatives remind one of the choice of David, who preferred +`falling into the hands of God rather than men.' The cunning Kaffir +knows that, by submitting to the British authorities, he yields to the +humane influences of Christianity, whereas by giving himself and his +people up to Kreli's tender mercies they would, to use Umhala's terms, +`become the slaves (Fingoes) of the Amagalekas,' or as some call them, +the Ama Hintza tribe. The terrible Zoolahs also would assail them. + +"The position of the Fingoes for many years, under their hard +taskmasters the Kaffirs, reminds one forcibly of the Israelites under +the Egyptians. Sir James Alexander, in his sketches, gives an animate +description of the redemption of these unhappy slaves from their +miserable bondage by Sir Benjamin D'Urban." [Note 1.] + +"There is a report, from very tolerable authority, that Pato has come in +contact with Kreli, and that both are disputing about the cattle. It is +not unlikely that Kreli has coaxed, or at least tacitly encouraged Pato +into his country, with a promise of protection after passing over the +Kei. Kreli may even make a merit of giving up the treacherous Pato. +These, however, are merely my own surmises. One thing must be apparent +to every one who has the honour of our country at heart--Pato should +never be admitted to terms by our Government; he should be hunted from +our borders, and made to take his chance among the other tribes eastward +of the Colony. To enrol him as a British subject would be a disgrace to +the name of one. + +"I must not forget to mention that on Umhala's leaving the camp, after +registering his name, it was ascertained that he and his people had +abstracted several of the trek oxen belonging to the Government! What +honourable subjects are these! + +"The Rifle Brigade has been found a most efficient force on the frontier +of South Africa; one hundred of them are to be mounted. The General +finds it expedient to dispense with the Burgher forces, who will be +permitted to return to their homes in February. The corps of liberated +Africans, who have been chiefly employed on escort duty, have been asked +if any of them will volunteer for the Cape Corps, but not even the +promise of a horse and the appointments of a soldier, will tempt them to +enlist. Some say, they would not mind returning to the frontier to +serve, after having seen their families near Cape Town, but they object +to the green jacket. Scarlet would be a greater temptation. These poor +redeemed slaves display their joy at the prospect of a release from +service, in dancing and singing. Unlike the war-dances of the Kaffirs +and the Fingoes, theirs are slow and quiet, and regulated in their time +by a small drum, or tom-tom, and another curious instrument of wood and +wire, a rude imitation of the lute; indescribable, however, in +appearance and sound, but requiring to be regularly tuned before using, +like any other stringed instrument. While they move, or rather slide +along the ground within a circle, they sing a monotonous air, containing +only three or four notes. + +"When I touched on the subject of the burial of a Malay some time since, +I did not mention the custom of turning the face of a corpse towards +Mecca, the Malays being strict Mahommedans. I should not have thought, +perhaps, of inquiring about it, but that the question was asked me. I +learn that the Malays are scrupulous with regard to this, regulating the +arrangement by a compass, and making a strict allowance for the +variation. + +"One peculiarity of Africa has been singularly striking, during the +continuance of this wretched war. I allude to the variety, consequently +presented, of the coloured tribes. First, comes the stalwart Kaffir, +with his powerful form and air of calm dignity, beneath which is +concealed the deepest cunning, the meanest principles. Some call the +Kaffir brave; he is a liar, a thief, and a beggar, ready only to fight +in ambush; and although, to use the common expression, he `dies game,' +his calmness is the result of sullenness. Are such qualities consistent +with bravery of character? Next to the Kaffir ranks the Fingo, +differing from the Kaffir much as the Irish do from the English, being +more mercurial, and less methodical. After these, may be named the Kat +River Hottentots and the Griquas, half-castes between Dutch and English. +The Hottentots, whom I have already described, are little appreciated, +or even known in other countries. This war has proved that they make +the most efficient soldiers for the service in which they have been +engaged. The little stunted Bushmen, too, the real aborigines of the +land, have assisted us with their poisoned arrows, and are a keen-witted +race. Their talent for mimicry is well-known, a proof of their +quickness of observation. The Malay may be considered naturalised in +the Cape Town districts. The Africanders, a caste between the Malays +and Europeans, with apparently a dash of Indian blood among them, are a +remarkably handsome race; the women would make fine studies for +Murillo's beauties. Their hair is their chief ornament, and is of the +deepest black. They take great pains in arranging it and twist it up +quite classically at the back of the head, fastening the shining mass of +jet with a gilt arrow, or a miniature spear. + +"The Zoolahs, or Zooluhs, I have already spoken of. These are to the +east, beginning some way beyond Kreli's Country, and reaching to Natal +Their great chief, Panda, is in constant communication with that +dependency. + +"Finally, we may name the West Coast Negroes, the liberated Africans, +who have been trained, in a short space of time, into tolerable +discipline. They have lately been brought to the Cape from Saint +Helena, the latter place having been established as a depot for these +poor creatures, when rescued from their sea-prison by our vessels-of-war +off the coast. None of them are ever willing to return to their own +country, where they are liable to be seized, and made objects of traffic +between their own people and the European slave-dealers. + +"December 28.--As I write, this eventful year is closing in. The +curtain is gradually falling on the scenes of the last nine months." + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + +"It is thought that this expedition over the Kei will be the last, and +perhaps Kreli may make a merit of necessity, and give up Pato and his +plunder. This latter, however, is only my own idea. Colonel Somerset, +will follow up the enemy, as far as he is permitted to do so. At this +period, while Kreli's people are only waiting to reap their corn, it +seems to me that it would have a good effect, to threaten the Chief with +a march through his country in search of cattle, unless he exerts +himself to restore what we know is either there, or has passed through +it. + +"The resources of the colony are open. We have troops, supplies, and +some fresh horses. The Graham's Town Journal of the 19th of December, +has some remarks on the efficacy of sending a vessel to the mouth of the +Umzimvooboo, in Amapondaland. `In one month,' says the writer of this +article, `the British flag may be floating at the mouth of the +Umzimvooboo.' + +"This river lies about midway between Graham's Town and Port Natal, +being, rather nearer to the latter place. + +"While Colonel Somerset's division is in preparation for another forward +movement, the Government Agents are busy in registering black British +subjects. The Kaffirs see that it is to their interest to make peace +for the present. They will apparently submit to any terms we may +dictate, but no matter what promises they may make, or what guarantee +for future good behaviour they may give, their promises are written upon +sand, and their bond is insecure, because void of all honour. Thieves +and liars they will remain, until some system is established to overcome +their heathen customs, and subdue their vicious natures. Whether the +proposed system be available for these purposes, can only be judged of +by the result. + +"Sir John Malcolm, in his `Central India,' says there is no other way of +converting heathens than by beginning with children; the prejudices of +the old ones are too strong to be eradicated. Sir James Alexander makes +a remark to the same effect, and in no country can there be greater +proof of it than in this. + +"I yesterday happened to open `The Report of the Directors to the +fifty-first General Meeting of the London Missionary Society, on the +15th of May, 1845,' and in a notice from King William's Town, find these +words in conclusion: `Jan Tzatzoe and the other native assistant have +made extensive journeys through the year, for the purpose of diffusing +the name of Christ and the knowledge of his salvation.' My first +impulse was to laugh, knowing that Jan Tzatzoe, the propagator of +Christianity in 1845, has been foremost in the mischief of 1846; but it +is melancholy to think how we have been imposed upon. The very writer +of the report probably considered Jan Tzatzoe in earnest. It is hard to +accuse others of deliberate mis-statements, unless their motives are +fully proved. Jan Tzatzoe has also had the advantage of religious +instruction in England, having been exhibited there as a Christian +Kaffir a few years ago! + +"December 29th.--Intelligence has been received from Colonel Somerset's +division, which is moving along the sea-coast. He has captured two +hundred and sixty head of cattle from the I'Slambies. Sir Peregrine +Maitland had come up with the second division, and would cross the Kei +at Warden's Post on the 21st of December. Colonel Somerset would +proceed by the mouth of the Kei, and the two divisions would meet at +Butterworth, the missionary station between the river and Kreli's kraal. +The whole country is said to be teeming with cattle. There have been +some encounters between the Burgher patrols and the cattle-stealers, and +a Hottentot Burgher was shot last week at Kaffir drift. + +"More mule-waggons have passed up the hills to-day, with provisions for +the troops. How invaluable would be the camel in this country! Some +object to the use of it, in consequence of the moist state of the +country after severe rains; but the slow-moving oxen, with the heavy +waggons, are often detained for weeks. The camel, by its swift pace and +its strength for burden, would soon make up for time lost by casualties. +The latter animal, too, would always thrive on the food from the bush, +and would have less need of water than the ox. I heard an officer of +well-known intelligence and keen observation remark how useful elephants +might be made in such warfare; the bush would afford them provision, and +a howdah, filled with armed men, and placed on an elephant's back, would +make a splendid portable battery for the low jungle of Africa. + +"The troops cross the various rivers in boats, which they carry with +them. There must be something very imposing in the sight of an armed +force, varying in numbers from two to four thousand men, moving along +these vast wilds by moonlight; but choosing such paths as shall screen +them from the spies, who lie in wait to bear intelligence back to the +enemy, and give warning of the approach. In these wilds will be found +much grander scenery than in the colonial districts. Here the grass is +richer, the trees are of a superior height, the rivers clearer, the +mountain slopes more abundantly clothed, sometimes with vast forests, +and the valleys are more fertile. Here the Hottentots, Kaffirs, and +Fingoes dwell amid the finest pasturage, and in the most healthy part of +the country. + +"December 31st.--New Year's Eve! Home! Home! Where are the happy +faces I have seen gathered round the cheerful hearth long years ago? +How often, as I look back on past years, am I reminded of Mrs Hemans's +`Graves of a household!' We are sundered--scattered far and wide. One +who returned to us, after long years of absence in the service of his +country, found his grave at last in Canada. Another moulders on the +rock of Saint Helena, snatched away in the bloom of life by the ruthless +hand of consumption. One has been called by duty to the shores of the +Mediterranean; another has returned to England, debilitated by the +climate of the West Indies; and even the sisters from that `household +hearth,' to which I turn with sad remembrance, are, with two exceptions, +suffering from the vicissitudes of a military life. Vicissitudes, +trials, privations!--these are indeed to be found in Africa, and in the +space of four years I have suffered from the horrors of shipwreck and of +war. + +"A strange wild sound of music comes up across the green from the +barracks, and the moon is just old enough to shed her tender light upon +a group of Malays, who, in their picturesque dresses, are marching to +the measured beat of a drum of their own making, and the sounds of +several rude flutes, clarionets, and horns, shaped hurriedly from the +bamboo, but emitting not unpleasant music, in most perfect time. This +is the peculiar feature in the talent for harmony displayed by the +Hottentots and Malays: no matter how rude the instrument, or how poor +the voice, tune and time are perfect. The old Irish air of `Garryowen' +has a strange effect played by this untutored band, their rude +instruments assisted by voices of many kinds, from the deepest bass to +the highest soprano. And now their war-song!--what a fine wind-up, with +its curious combinations that sound scientific, and yet have no musical +grammar in them! It is over, and the air is still again. There is the +tramp of their feet over the parade-ground, and--oh, poesy! oh, +heroism!--they have changed their solemn tread for a quick march, and +their stirring war-song for the lively Polka!" + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + +"There is as much trouble here as ever, and less excitement. The +registered subjects of British Kaffiraria have taken to robbing +orchards, while idling in search of plunder, coolly acknowledging their +purpose, producing their registration tickets, and offering as a +reason--for it cannot be called an excuse--that `the English have taken +their cattle from them, and they want them back again.' + +"January 1, 1847.--At Fort Hare, the registration system proceeds as +usual. Macomo, in a fit of wilfulness, took his departure from thence a +few days ago, with a single follower; and, being traced to Fort +Armstrong, not far from the Tarka Post, has been detained there. A +letter from the Commanding Officer of a large division on the Kei says, +`There is still much work before us; the patrol is back, bringing in +about four thousand five hundred head of cattle. Colonel Somerset, and +a party of the Cape Mounted Riflemen, are gone on towards Butterworth. +One of the Rifle Brigade is killed, and another wounded, in crossing the +Kei drift; about fifty Kaffirs are killed. The Camp will break up +to-morrow, and next day cross the Kei, and join Colonel Somerset. The +natives are determined to show fight. They walked away with three span +of oxen this morning; however, they were hotly pursued, and all but five +had been recaptured. They were in numbers, challenging our people to +come on,' etc. + +"This day brings the unexpected intelligence of Sir Henry Pottinger's +appointment to the Governorship of the Cape of Good Hope. The Home +Authorities have doubtless seen how impossible it is for a man of Sir +Peregrine Maitland's great age to undergo even the physical toil +attendant upon a government of so vast a tract of country; and, when it +is also considered that, in consequence of the distance of Cape Town +from the frontier, Sir Peregrine was prevented from appearing on the +scene till the conclusion of the first great act of the war, every one +will be sensible of the immense difficulties with which he has had to +contend. Every one is assured that Sir Peregrine Maitland has acted +honourably, conscientiously, and disinterestedly throughout the war; +and, in leaving the frontier of South Africa, he bears with him the +acknowledgements of the colonists, whom he has done his best to serve, +and the earnest respect of the troops, whose toils and privations he has +patiently shared, and to whom he has been an example of British courage, +perseverance, and true nobility of principle. + +"January 18th.--The mournful news has just been received of the murder +of three officers and four soldiers, by Kaffirs, on the banks of the +Kei. They lost their lives in the following manner:--They belonged to a +party sent to guard a drift at the Kei, and, having been some days +without meat where they were, a patrol went in search of some, and, +seeing cattle at a distance, those mounted, namely, the three officers +(namely, Captain Gibson and Dr Howell, Rifle Brigade; and the Hon. Mr +Chetwynd, 73rd Regiment), and four provisional Hottentots, went in +advance, leaving the infantry, about forty men, some way behind them; +they had secured some cattle, and were returning, when a horde of +Kaffirs rushed from a neighbouring kloof and overpowered the party, +killing the officers and two of the Hottentots. The infantry were too +far away to be of any assistance. On reaching the spot where they +expected to find the officers, not a trace of them was to be seen, nor +were the bodies found for two days after the event. The three murdered +officers died nobly. They made a stand at once on the approach of the +treacherous enemy from his lair. Dr Howell's horse fell wounded at the +first fire, and the others, determined not to desert him, fought by his +side till their ammunition was expended. The remaining Hottentots gave +information, after their escape through the bush, of the scene of +strife, and the bodies were sought for. There were at first some +rumours of mutilation, but there is scarcely a doubt now of their having +been shot dead at once. Mr Chetwynd received a ball through his heart, +and Captain Gibson had no less than six gun-shot wounds. + +"Ten miles beyond the Kei, these brave spirits now lie at rest. Beside +a spot called Shaw's Fountain, they were buried by their sorrowing +comrades. Far from the habitations of the white man are their simple +graves; no monument marks the burial-ground in the mighty wilderness, +but the memory of these gallant spirits is embalmed the breasts of their +fellow soldiers, and their lonely abiding places in the far desert will +be henceforth hallowed spots in an enemy's country. + +"The act by which they fell a sacrifice to savage treachery was an +imprudent one, but they were `strangers in the land,' and knew not that +it is a common trick of the Kaffirs to show cattle at the edge of the +bush, and lie in wait." [See Appendix.] + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + +Note 1. "On the 7th of May," says Sir James, "I witnessed a most +interesting sight, and one which causes this day to be one of immense +immense importance in the annals of South Africa. It was no less than +the flight of the Fingo nation, seventeen thousand in number, from +Amakosa bondage, guarded by British troops, and on their way across the +Kei, to find a new country under British protection."--See Sketches in +Western Africa for the rest of this description, volume two, chapter 23. + +I have already touched upon the idle state of the Fingoes, who do +nothing for the country which has rescued them from a slavery of the +most miserable character. They have fought well during this war; but +this has generally been in defence of their own cattle, or with the hope +of remuneration. The garrison at Fort Peddie was originally placed +there for the protection of the Fingoes, who would in no way render +their services to their protectors, and whose time was chiefly passed in +basking in the sun. The women tilled the ground, the children herded +the cattle, and the men hunted--when hungry. + + + +PART TWO, CHAPTER TWELVE. + +SUFFERINGS OF THE SETTLERS. + +"Another year has opened its pages in the book of life, and the record +of the Kaffir war promises nothing in the shape of peace. Our enemy, +instead of being subdued, appears more obstinate than ever, and deeply +intent on every device that can thwart our purpose and forward his own. + +"When the Kaffirs first began to make concessions, I was of opinion that +they were willing to submit to any terms at the moment, in order to gain +time to plant and reap. The result has been what every one experienced +in the Kaffir character ought to have anticipated. We have dealt too +mercifully with the treacherous and cruel foe; cruel he is by nature; +witness his brutality even among those of his own colour, nay, his own +blood. Some say he is not cowardly; it is certain he meets death at the +last moment calmly, and he has a peculiar pride in bearing pain and +annoyance at all times with apparent indifference. A Kaffir will not +raise his hand to remove a fly from his face; and, as he rubs his skin +with clay and grease to protect it from the effects of the sun, these +attract the flies, and I have known a savage sit for hours in the sun +with his cheeks and brow covered by these tormenting and fidgetty +insects, without attempting to remove them. It must be allowed, though, +that a Kaffir skin more resembles the hide of some powerful animal than +the skin of a human being. In the early part of this war, some person +procured the entire skin of a Kaffir, and had it treated in the same way +that leather is first prepared for tanning. I am told that the texture +is at least three times the thickness of a white man's, and I see no +reason for doubting the assertion. + +"The Kaffir has neither generosity nor gratitude, which are invariably +the attributes of a brave nature; he will not meet his adversary openly, +unless he has the advantage immensely in numbers, as in Captain Sandes's +case. When there are some thousands, to one helpless or unarmed man, +they will annihilate him without mercy. The Kaffir has no genuine +pride, for he will submit to any personal degradation to obtain his +ends; in short, he is an ignoble foe, and we gain no more credit, or +profit, in fighting such an enemy than if we were endeavouring to +circumvent an army of baboons. The Kaffir warriors move from kloof to +kloof, from drift to drift, with their provisions in their pouches, or +deposited at certain distances in the bush, while their women contrive +to support themselves in the neighbourhood of the British camp, making +occasional excursions to see their relatives in the field, to furnish +them with useful intelligence and gunpowder. Where the latter is +obtained is, professedly, a mystery! The resources of the Colony +present temptations to those who have long lived by trading in the +country beyond the Kei; and, although provisions have not been forwarded +along the coast, small vessels have made their way to the mouths of the +rivers between Waterloo Bay and Natal. A report, founded on good +grounds, is abroad, that the Kaffir women have lately been employed in +conveying ammunition to their friends, by means of pack-oxen, from Algoa +Bay to the interior of Kaffirland, right through the Colony. This is by +no means improbable, when the territory is so vast, and the population +scattered, and comparatively small. + +"There is little doubt that the Resident Agent at Block Drift now sees +the uselessness of endeavouring to carry out the late arrangements of +Government with regard to `British Kaffraria.' How he ever supposed +such measures could succeed must remain a puzzle to all acquainted with +the Kaffir's nature! `I beseech you by the meekness and gentleness of +Christ,' is an appeal which the South African savage, in his present +state, cannot be brought to understand. + +"January 6th.--We have the old story from the field; the troops have +been patrolling, and have rescued two thousand head of cattle from the +I'Slambies. The 6th, under the command of Colonel Michell, have had +their share in this foray. Much sickness continues to prevail. The +cunning Pato has again succeeded in eluding pursuit, although Colonel +Somerset hemmed him in. The gallant Colonel, while moving through a +mist with a party of troops, came suddenly on his enemy. The surprise +of seeing Pato's panther-like face, as the gloom cleared for an instant, +elicited an exclamation from Colonel Somerset, as he drew his pistol +from his holster, and Pato escaped into the bush ere the shot could take +effect. At the time the despatches were written, only one part of the +troops had crossed the Kei, and our private letters mention that the +rivers were rising fast. Those who were on the eastern bank, had only a +few days' provisions with them, and they may be cut off from all +communication with the troops on this side for two or three weeks. + +"News from England.--Orders have been received to this effect:--the +27th, 90th, and 91st Regiments are to embark for England immediately, if +they can possibly be spared. The 90th are to march to Graham's Town at +once, and onward to the coast. I despair of our removal with the 91st. +Sir Henry Pottinger is daily expected on the frontier. The 27th and +91st Regiments will no doubt be detained till his arrival, and what his +movements may be it is impossible to know." + +On the 12th of January, Sir Peregrine Maitland arrived at Graham's Town, +from the frontier, on his way to Cape Town, bringing with him the +intelligence that two thousand head of fine cattle had been captured +across the Kei by Colonel Somerset's division; this was a second +recapture in less than a fortnight, and under considerable difficulties. +But the grand capture, of six thousand head, was made afterwards, and +on the 17th of January, Colonel Somerset crossed the Kei at the imminent +peril of his life, but the patrol, with all the cattle, were unable to +ford the stream, which was still rising with such force that nothing +could stand against the torrent. All provisions and supplies were cut +off, and the troops had nothing but a few mealies (Indian corn) to +subsist on. Three men were drowned on the morning of the 15th: +Serjeant-Major Ritchie, 7th Dragoon Guards, and two of the Cape Corps: +and Mr Allen, Assistant-Surgeon of the Cape Corps, was only saved by +disengaging himself from his horse and swimming ashore. + +The command of the troops on the frontier now devolved on Colonel +Somerset, until the arrival of General Berkeley. The efficiency of the +Colonel for such a command has been fully proved during this long and +harassing war. + +On the 19th of January the force made its way across the Kei, with eight +thousand head of cattle, captured in Kreli's country. The Kaffirs hung +upon the rear, disputing each drift and passage with the troops. In +crossing the Kei, a serjeant of the 6th, and a private of the Cape +Mounted Rifles, were shot by the enemy. + +Having recaptured so much cattle, Colonel Somerset now determined to +fall back towards the Colony, and on the 19th he issued an order, +warning those in command of posts and divisions, to be as vigilant as +ever in their observations of the enemy's movements, as hostilities had +not ceased. + +Meanwhile, sickness prevailed among the troops in the field and still +increasing. Rheumatism, camp-fever, and dysentery, reduced the subject +of them to a deplorable state of debility, and it was melancholy to see +young men, who had been scarcely three months in the Colony, brought to +positive decrepitude from these sufferings. + +"February 6th.--The 91st are under orders to proceed from Fort Peddie to +Graham's Town, for the purpose of preparing for embarkation for home. + +"The `Thunderbolt' steamer, having on board Her Majesty's Commissioner, +Sir Henry Pottinger, and Lieutenant-General Berkeley, the Commander of +the Forces; in rounding Cape Recife, on the 3rd of February, struck upon +a sunken rock, sprung a leak, and it is feared will go to pieces with +the first south-easter. The disappointment of the 90th, who were +waiting at Algoa Bay for this vessel to convey them to Cape Town for +final embarkation, may be will imagined. The old soldiers who stood +eagerly watching her approach, set up a universal shout as they saw her +coming round. What must have been their feelings when they beheld her +run right ashore? + +"The appearance of the 90th on leaving the Colony is so totally +different to what it presented on its arrival here, that it goes far to +prove the good effect of the Cape climate on constitutions debilitated +by Indian service. Under every disadvantage of fatigue, privation, and +a residence under canvas during an African summer, with the thermometer +at times 157 degrees in the open air, the 90th, on their march from +Graham's Town to the coast, presented a perfect picture of a regiment of +British veterans. + +"We lately saw them in our evening ride, as they toiled up a steep hill +before us with their long line of waggons and dusky waggon-drivers. How +cheerful they looked! I envied them as I turned my horse's head back to +the land of banishment and anxiety! I could not help uttering the +words, `Happy 90th, God speed you!' aloud, as the last waggon passed us, +and an old soldier, with a bronzed cheek and grey hair, saluted our +party, by way of `Thank you for your good will!' How little they +anticipated their disappointment at Algoa Bay!" + +It is not long since we rode a few miles on the Fort Beaufort road to +see the cattle that had been captured by Colonel Somerset's division +across the Kei. We reached the bivouac just as the sun was declining. +The cattle, seven thousand in number, were gathered into a dense mass, +and surrounded by their guards. I never see a poor patient-looking Cape +ox, that I do not think of the strife continually existing here for the +sake of its race. The mass of cattle was a Smithfield show; but the +tents round it--the huts contrived to hold one person--being a few +bushes and a piece of tattered canvas, the fires where the Hottentots +and their vrouws cooked their suppers, the piled muskets, the picquets +and scouts turning out for the night, and the pack-oxen, apart from +their fellows, and so tame as to be pets and playmates of the boys who +watched them, presented an extraordinary sight, particularly in that +strange light between the setting of the sun and the reign of the moon. +This crowd of cattle had been brought into the Colony with great speed +and security, by the levy in command of Captain Hogg, 7th Dragoon +Guards; and, as was anticipated, the enemy followed them, in various +parties, through the different passes between Kaffirland and our own +territory. Fortunately, Captain Hogg and his people had been too swift +and careful in their movements to be circumvented even by Kaffirs, and +the cattle was distributed to the farmers without delay. + +We took another ride one day, which created sad sensations. Above the +Drostdy barracks, on the western side of Graham's Town, is a succession +of hills and undulating plains. We chose our path along the open +ground, being a vast irregular space, evidently very fertile, for the +turf was gay with beautiful wild flowers. Gigantic mountains, piled one +above the other, formed the background of this noble amphitheatre. Here +and there a hill was clothed in patches of deep green, and on its summit +waved a few small trees, but there was no dense bush, and two or three +farms dotted the plains, many miles in extent. + +"These farms have probably been secure from the Kaffirs during the war," +said I. + +We reached one of them. Although it had escaped the brand of the +savage, it looked desolate. The owners had only returned within a few +days. They had not deserted it till the last moment; their cattle had +been stolen and their herds wounded, their land was untilled, and the +little watercourse was choked with rubbish. We passed on to the farm a +short distance beyond it. The settlers, a man and his wife, perfectly +English in appearance, but pale and harassed, stood surveying their +miserable homestead. This, too, from its open position, had escaped the +brand; but the windows were shattered, the door swung on imperfect +hinges, the steps were broken and grass grew between them; the little +garden laid waste; and, as if in mockery, a scarlet geranium streamed +garishly over the crumbling embankment; rank weeds filled the place of +other plants under the broken boughs of the apricot trees, and a few +poor articles of furniture which had been borne away to Graham's Town, +on the family flitting, stood in the open air, awaiting more strength +than the exhausted mistress of the place could command. Her husband had +been trying to bring a piece of ground into some sort of cultivation, +but it was heavy work; the long droughts had parched the earth, and the +mimosa fence was scattered over the face of the patch, which had once +yielded vegetables. + +We asked them if they, too, had lost their cattle? The man smiled, as +he said, "Yes;" he seemed amused at our supposing it could have escaped +the hands of the robber. The woman sighed, and answered that two of her +herds had been killed, and her son had had a narrow escape of being +shot. "We did not like to stay after that, Ma'am," said she, "and we +have been many months in Graham's Town. I'm sure I don't think we are +safe now, in spite of all the fresh soldiers we've got in the country," +she continued, casting a frightened glance towards the gloomy mountains +behind the homestead, "but we are all ruined, and things can't be much +worse, so we may as well take our chance." + +The colonists, who are the best judges of the benefits conferred on them +by Colonel Somerset's exertions in their behalf, have come forward to +bestow a solid testimony of their gratitude towards him, by setting on +foot a subscription for the purchase of a piece of plate, setting forth +that "The inhabitants of Albany, impressed with the great service +rendered them by Colonel Somerset during the Kaffir war, by his rapid +march from Block Drift into Lower Albany and other parts of the +district, thereby relieving the inhabitants from imminent danger, and in +some cases from almost certain destruction, from the wrathful hands of +an invading enemy, and further for his services rendered to the Colony +in general by his great exertions in the field, it is proposed to +present him with a piece of plate, as a mark of their esteem and +gratitude." + +The march alluded to, of such importance to the safety and he lives of +the unfortunate settlers, was "made on his own responsibility." By this +"forced march," says the Graham's Town Journal, February 13th, 1847, +"Colonel Somerset saved Theopolis, Farmerfield, Salem, Bathurst, and +other places in Lower Albany, from probable destruction." + +On the departure of his Excellency Sir Peregrine Maitland from the +frontier, the troops fell back from the Kei to the Buffalo, where +Colonel Van der Meulen assumed the command of a division, consisting of +four companies of the Rifle Brigade, beside his own regiment, the 73rd, +two guns, seventy Cape Corps, a squadron of the 7th Dragoon Guards, and +a chequered group of Provisionals. This division encamped amid the +ruins of what once promised to be a flourishing town, named by Sir Harry +Smith, King William's Town; the site having been taken possession of by +him in the name of William the Fourth, in 1835; but it was subsequently +abandoned. + +Here, then, among these memorials of the last war, the troops are +building huts and bowers for themselves. The heat is intolerable. The +walls of Sir Harry Smith's abode are still standing, and the old garden +contains some excellent fruit trees, planted probably under the +direction of Lady Smith, the interesting Spanish heroine of some +charming sketches of the Peninsula, and the favourite of the African +frontier. Lady Smith, of kindly memory, would live in the hearts of +those who knew her, even were she not connected with one of the heroes +of the late conquests in India. + +Fort Peddie has been strengthened, and is now the head-quarters of the +6th Regiment, under Lieutenant-Colonel Michel. Besides the 6th, Colonel +Michel has at his disposal a troop of Dragoons, a party of the Cape +Corps, and some companies of the Rifle Brigade. + +The 91st are scattered far and wide at outposts and bivouacs. The light +company, under Captain Savage, are in Colonel Michel's district, +patrolling between Post Victoria (abandoned and resumed within eight +months) and Fort Peddie. The Grenadiers, under Captain Ward, are on +their march to the neighbourhood of Hell's Poort, to intercept +cattle-lifters. The levies have been dismissed, or dispersed of their +own accord; the flank companies of Her Majesty's 91st are employed in +their stead! + +The Beaufort Division is under the command of Lieutenant-Colonel +Johnstone, 27th Regiment, and consists of the 45th Regiment, under +Lieutenant-Colonel Erskine; the reserve battalion 91st, +under Lieutenant-Colonel Campbell; 7th Dragoon Guards, under +Lieutenant-Colonel Richardson, and a Burgher Force, under Major Sutton, +Cape Mounted Rifles. + + + +PART TWO, CHAPTER THIRTEEN. + +THE REGISTRATION SYSTEM. + +The pithy motto of "Deeds, not words," is fraught with sound sense; +nevertheless, words uttered with calmness and decision, to a suffering +community, carry comfort to the hearts of men, if, by their import, they +simply prove that the sufferer's cause is understood. + +Sir Henry Pottinger left Cape Town on the 10th February, 1847, in the +"President" flag-ship, Admiral Dacres, and an address was presented to +him on his landing at Algoa Bay, by the inhabitants of Port Elizabeth, +to which he replied in a manner that evinced his determination to meet +the difficulties before him unflinchingly. + +Whilst Sir Henry Pottinger was receiving and replying to the addresses +of the inhabitants of Algoa Bay, Sir Peregrine Maitland, his family and +suite, were embarking at Cape Town for England. Every demonstration of +respect towards the ex-Governor and Lady Sarah Maitland, was displayed +by the inhabitants, who pressed forward to offer a kind farewell. + +On the 24th of February, the guns from the battery above the Drostdy +Barracks announced the arrival of Sir George Berkeley, K.C.B., the newly +appointed Commander-in-Chief of Her Majesty's forces on the South +African frontier; and, on the 27th, another salute told of Sir Henry +Pottinger's approach to the then immediate seat of Government, Graham's +Town. + +The registration system has not succeeded. A farmer misses his cattle, +sheep, and horses, or his garden is trampled down, or stripped of its +produce. He represents the case to the officer of the line, or the +Burgher in command of the nearest post, or bivouac. A patrol is +ordered; the spoor is traced, and the men enter the thick bush, creeping +on their hands and knees. They first come on the ashes of a fire, and +the _debris_ of a meal; the eyes of a savage scout gleam through a +screen of mimosa thorns, and then disappear; there is a rush through the +bush, a Kaffir exclamation of "Ma-wo!" a stray shot or two from the +enemy, fired with deadly intent, but unsuccessfully generally, from the +very desire to take unerring aim, a volley from the patrol, then a chase +to no purpose; for, shortly after, the savages utter a yell of defiance +from some distant or impracticable pass, or more frequently vanish in +silence, leaving, perhaps, the traces of blood, the Kaffirs possessing +extraordinary vitality, and rivalling, though in a different sense, that +celebrated British Corps, the "Die Hards." The deserted bivouac of the +enemy is then examined, and the booty that presents itself as a reward +of toil and courage, consists of the bones of an ox, the remnant of a +roasted goat, or sheep, some trophies from Burn's Hill, in the shape of +an artillery powder-bag, part of a leather belt, a few stray assegais, +perchance a good hair-trigger gun, some filthy karosses, and a +registration ticket or two, setting forth how Cana, or Weni, or Tuti, +Number 300, or 3000, etc, had "surrendered himself at Fort Hare, or Fort +Peddie, on such a day, 1847," the said surrender, by the way, having +been followed up on some occasions by a gift of cattle recaptured by the +troops on the very morning perhaps that it was presented to the said +Cana, Weni, Tuti, etc, etc. + +On the 25th of February, the Grenadiers of the 91st Regiment having been +detained many days on the eastern side of the Fish River, in consequence +of its being impassable from its swollen state, the soldiers adopted a +peculiar mode of getting the baggage-waggons across this gulf of dark +and sluggish waters. Availing themselves of a short period when the +drift became navigable, these patient and experienced soldiers took the +waggons to pieces, and embarked them piecemeal with their cargoes in the +clumsy craft which forms the sole means of conveyance. + +The first two years of our sojourn here, the locusts devastated the +land. The prophet Joel describes this dreadful visitation as "Like the +noise of chariots on the tops of mountains," "Like the noise of flame of +fire that devoureth the stubble," as a "strong people set in battle +array;" and any one who has ridden through a cloud of locusts, must +admit the description to be as true as it is sublime. On one occasion, +at Fort Peddie, the cloud, flickering between us and the missionary +station, half a mile distant, dazzled our eyes, and veiled the buildings +from our sight; at last it rose, presenting its effects in some acres of +barren stubble, which the sun had lit up in all the beauty of bright +green a few hours before. Verily, "the heavens" seemed "to tremble," +and the sky was darkened by this "great army," which passed on "every +one on his ways," neither "breaking their ranks" nor "thrusting one +another." So they swept on, occupying a certain space between the +heavens and the earth, and neither swerving from their path, extending +the mighty phalanx, or pausing in the course: the noise of their wings +realising the idea of a "flaming blast," and their whole appearance +typifying God's terrible threat of a "besom of destruction." + +"They shall walk every one in his path!" Nothing turns them from it. +And, if the traveller endeavour to force his way through them with +unwonted rapidity, he is sure to suffer. I have ridden for miles at a +sharp gallop through these legions, endeavouring to beat them off with +my whip, but all to no purpose! nothing turns them aside, and the poor +horses bend down their heads as against an advancing storm, and make +their way as best they can, snorting and writhing under the infliction +of several sharp blows on the face and eyes, which their riders +endeavour to evade with as little success. One draws a long breath +after escaping from a charge of locusts, and looking round you, you +exclaim with the prophet, "The land is as the garden of Eden before +them, and behind them a desolate wilderness; yea, and nothing shall +escape them." + +The white ants are another plague--books, dresses, carpets, etc, all +fall a prey to their voracity in a few days; the very houses give way +before them; and when they are on a march, never swerving from their +path, some thousands in number, the earth has the appearance of being +covered with ashes. Twice, then, have I seen the land subject to this +curse; and in 1846 the droughts proved perhaps a worse misfortune. Here +again the prophet's words were applicable: "How do the beasts groan! the +herds of cattle are perplexed because they have no pasture; yea, the +flocks of sheep are made desolate!" + +The rise of the rivers is another of the wonderful sights of Africa. At +one moment the bed of the river presents little but a surface of mud; a +distant murmur is heard, then a roar; nearer, yet nearer, and a wall of +water is visible up the stream. On, on,--not foaming, nor leaping, nor +glancing in the bright sun,--like a cheerful, honest, English torrent-- +but with a slow sluggish movement, the wall advances, swelling in its +career, and gradually filling the great chasm with a dull and sluggish +volume of lead-coloured fluid; while the cattle stand trembling and +gazing on the brink of this African Styx, their Fingo herdsman making no +bad representation of "Charon grim!" + +Pato's last message to Colonel Somerset might be admired for its +coolness, if the intentions implied in it were serious in all their +bearings. His ambassadress, a Kaffir woman, came into Graham's Town +lately, to tell Colonel Somerset that Pato desired to meet him [Note 1], +and that speedily, as his (the Chief's) tobacco-pouch was worn out, and +he only waited for his enemy's skin wherewith to make a new one! There +is no doubt that Pato would readily appropriate the said skin of his +persevering foe to the purpose required, but as to meeting Colonel +Somerset, that is "quite another thing." + +Witchcraft is working its mischief in Kaffirland, accompanied with the +most revolting ceremonies. After the first affair on the Amatolas, +Sandilla presented Umyeki, one of his numerous fathers-in-law, with a +trophy of victory. The skull, skin, and right hand of our unfortunate +friend, Captain Bambrick, 7th Dragoon Guards, were considered by the +young Gaika chief as worthy offerings to this celebrated witch-doctor, +or worker of spells. These wizards outrival the chiefs in power, and +have hitherto carried on their incantations with a success that baffles +both missionary and military exertions. + +The wizard, Umyeki, then gathers round him a vast assemblage of his +fellow-savages; and, after going through the usual harlequinade +attendant on those mysteries of Kaffirland, he exhibits a decoction, a +mixture of herbs with Sandilla's trophies, and as this boils and foams +over on the fire he has prepared according to form, under it, he dips a +stick into it, stirs it up, and then pointing the magic wand in the +direction of our outposts, camps, bivouacs, and leaguers, he decrees as +he thinks fit, sickness to one, fear to another, and so on; and thus by +persuading his deluded and superstitious countrymen that he paralyses +the colonial forces, the Kaffirs acquire fresh courage, and persevere in +their aggressions. A clever artist has seized on this for a subject, +which promises to make a fine picture. The demon look of the wizard, +the curiosity depicted in the faces of some of the spectators, the +terror of others who turn aside, or shrink away, with faces +half-averted, are all well portrayed. Such a scene can only be imagined +by people who are accustomed to the study of the Kaffir countenance. + +Those who witnessed Sandilla's first offer of _amende_ to the British +Government described it as singularly impressive, and were touched with +some feelings of compassion for the restless Gaika. The image presented +is a mournful one. Sandilla, at the age of twenty-four, hitherto Lord +Paramount of the Amakosas, including Gaikas, I'Slambies, and many +smaller tribes, sits moodily on the mountain-ridge, awaiting an answer +to the conciliatory message wrung from him by force of the British arms; +and, surveying in silence the territory he has forfeited,--lands +extending as far as the eye can reach--mountains and deep valleys, green +pastures, and sheltering bush--the home of the savage, all threaded by +the Tyumie stream--those waters, of which he once vowed "the white man +should never drink,"--on its fertile banks, the tents of the English now +stand in proud array. The echoes round that vast space give back the +bugle call, the fife's shrill notes, the drum's dull rolling sound, +where once was heard the hunter's shout, the jackal's cry, the peevish +whine of the wolf, the mocking laugh of the hyena, and but lately the +wild whoop of the Gaika warriors. Silently sits that young Chief upon +the mountain edge, but not alone--to him, at least, his people are true. +A chieftain's power is absolute, but, alas! it is only applicable to +mischievous purposes. His vassals watch him, and a proud sorrow is +depicted in their countenances as they gaze on him, turning from time to +time their fierce and scowling eyes on the British Commissioner. In +strong contrast to this, Sir Peregrine Maitland, with his Staff, rides +slowly by--his calm features totally unmoved, as he hands a written +decree to his delegate, and passes on. With their arms folded, and yet +with every nerve on the alert, and hands ready to seize the short +destructive assegais at their feet [these are used when compelled to +close with the enemy], the warriors of the Amatola, unsubdued in spirit, +haughtily await the "word" of the "White-headed Chief of the children of +the foam," to which Sandilla vouchsafes no reply. Apart, a young Gaika, +Anta (Sandilla's brother), speaks words of bitter scorn. Eye and hand +sweep round the glorious territory, and at each pause in his vehement +harangue, a low and solemn sound, like the distant roar of many waters, +rolls through the circle of his auditors. No notice of what is passing +is vouchsafed by the Amakosa Chief. At last, drawing his robe of +tiger-skin around his withered limb, he moves slowly and, in spite of +his lameness, with dignity, from the council-ground, and is lost in the +deep recesses of the "bush." + +All this, I say, presents a mournful image to the mind, and many a +romance has been formed on poorer incidents; but we must remember when +we hear the broad assertion of philanthropists at home, that we are not +justified in taking from the Kaffir, "the land of his fathers," that the +country is only his by might--no more his than ours, he having driven +the aborigines from the dwelling-place God originally led them into. +Where are these poor Bushmen now? Far up the country, among the steep +recesses of the mountains, where they form a link between the animals of +the wilderness and human nature. Thither civilisation may follow them +when the land of their forefathers shall be under British rule! + +It may here be remarked that the Zooluh tribes, near Natal, now punish +witchcraft among themselves with death. Umwangela, a chief, lately +ordered a Zooluh wizard to be destroyed by one of the tribe, named +Nomgulu; both the chief and his subject were seized by the British +authorities, and tried for murder. Umwangela's defence was, "I was +dead; I had lost my family by the wizard, and determined to have his +life in return." Nomgulu pleaded that he was "only the dog of +Umwangela; that witchcraft was a crime punishable by death." Umwangela +and his "dog" were found guilty of murder on the British territory, and +sentenced to death; but the sentence was not carried into effect. The +witnesses who discovered the prisoners arrested them when returning from +bathing, it being the custom of the Zooluhs to wash after an execution. + +Part of the 1st battalion 45th Regiment, stationed at Natal, have lately +been engaged in hostile operations against a chief named Fodo, who had +assembled his warriors near the Umzunculu River, and carried off a +quantity of cattle, killing some of the peaceable inhabitants of the +Ambaca tribe. On the 27th January, the troops, consisting of some +Artillery, Cape Corps, and a party of the 45th, in all not three +hundred, encamped on the banks of the Umzunculu. They were accompanied +by some natives subject to our Government. The country was too rugged +for the Artillery rockets to be of much use, and the bush aided Fodo's +escape. Some five hundred head of cattle were recaptured from the +enemy, and five prisoners were secured. The Lieutenant-Governor has +wisely offered a reward for the apprehension of Fodo and his colleague, +Nomdabulu. + +I have touched on the subject of this skirmish in the district of Natal, +because, although that district is under a Lieutenant-Governor of its +own, it is closely connected, commercially, politically, and in a +domestic way, with these south-western territories, and also because our +troops have been engaged there. + +As a set-off to such hostilities, there are some hopes that the Dutch +will pause [they paused to fight, and be conquered] in their career +beyond Natal. A few words about their settlements in that part of +Africa will not be irrelevant to my subject, inasmuch as, from the +extension of our possessions to Natal, we are fast approaching the line +of demarcation they would wish to establish. + +About two hundred miles north-west of the Portuguese settlement at +Delagoa Bay, a town has arisen, called by the emigrant Boers Orichstadt, +after its founder Orich, one of the first who _trekked_ in a spirit of +discontent against the English. The natives of the country round +Orichstadt are a branch of the Baraputses, but are called by the Dutch +_knob-neus_, or knob-noses, from that feature being tattooed after the +fashion of a string of beads. With these natives they have lately made +an expedition against some of the Zooluh race, to rescue cattle. This +commando lasted one day, and was successful, many Zooluhs being killed, +and the cattle taken from them. Throughout South Africa the cry is +still "Cattle! Cattle! Cattle!" + +A sort of trade in ivory has been established between Orichstadt and +Delagoa Bay, but the chief obstacle is the intervening low swampy +country, which is so unhealthy that both men and oxen frequently sicken +and die on the journey. The natives near the bay navigate the river +Maponta in canoes. These are a half-caste race, employed by their +masters, the Portuguese, to purchase ivory in the interior. + +The fort at the bay is not the residence of the Governor-General of the +Portuguese on the east coast of Africa. He resides at Mozambique, and +the officer commanding the troops at the fortress has absolute rule over +all the natives within the small district, among whom are a few European +settlers, living in wretched dwellings near the native huts. The fort +is useless as a defence, being built of mud, and the interior is a mere +stock-yard for the Lieutenant-Governor, who traffics in ivory with the +vessels which touch here. There is also some suspicion of a trade in +slaves. + +Near Delagoa Bay is a tract of country, called Tembia. Here Captain +Owen, R.N., once proposed to occupy a position for watching the slavers +on the coast. A mission was also established here, and progressed +favourably for two years; but England giving up her right in Tembia to +Portugal, the unfortunate natives who had gathered round "the Teacher," +were soon disposed of to the slavers. The Dutch are also suspected of +being connected with this melancholy trade. Let us hope that the future +state of their adopted country will be such as to induce them to return +to it. The droughts which devastated this part of Africa in 1846, did +equal mischief at Orichstadt, and there has been much consequent +distress. It is the assurance of this which has arrested the travelling +Boers from advancing further to the north-east with their families. + +March 24th.--The troops again take the field this day. Pato's message +to the Government is conciliatory, based on the usual grounds--a scheme +to gain time until the corn is gathered in. The Governor's reply is, +that "Pato must surrender himself unconditionally." + +Sir Henry Pottinger and his suite have pitched their marquees at Fort +Peddie, in the immediate neighbourhood of the I'Slambie tribes. It is +possible his Excellency will find more difficulty in dealing with these +savages than with His Celestial Majesty the Emperor of China. Active +operations are now been carried on under Sir George Berkeley and Colonel +Somerset in the I'Slambie country; and, in the mean time, the key to +Kaffirland is to be made use of, at last; the Buffalo Mouth is to be +opened at once; and, for the present, the haughty spirit of the Gaikas +seems at rest. + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + +Note 1. The Kaffir _sobriquet_ for Colonel Somerset implies, in their +language, a peculiar species of hawk, famous for its keen sight and its +activity. + + + +PART TWO, CHAPTER FOURTEEN. + +OPENING OF THE SECOND CAMPAIGN. + +The opening of the mouth of the Buffalo river, for the transmission of +stores seaward to Kaffirland, will, I trust, prove the usefulness of +this key to the seat of war and turmoil. With what breathless eagerness +will the first boat be watched careering through the foam, which at +times separates, as a veil, the stream from the ocean! Intent as we, +poor exiles, are upon every movement that affects the progress of +operations, languishing for home, as well as interested in the welfare +of the colony, we gaze earnestly on each convoy of waggons wending its +slow, uncertain way up the hill "hard by," on its way to the front. On +the 22nd of March, we paused in our evening walk to observe the train of +twenty-six waggons, _en route_ for the Buffalo mouth. What an example +of African locomotion it presented! Some of these contained ammunition, +and it struck me that the nature of their contents might have been +concealed rather than manifested by their funereal coverings of black +canvas. The foremost in the train suddenly stopped. Had a steam-engine +led the van, it would have panted, and puffed, and tugged in vain, along +such a pathway. The transport for soldiers' necessaries in this country +is so small, that this waggon had been loaded beyond the capabilities of +so cumbrous a machine, and it stuck fast; none of the others, therefore, +could move along the narrow road. In vain, the driver slashed his long +whip,--the echoes only mocked it. In vain, he shouted "Bosjeman!" +"Abeveldt!" "England!" to his oxen; in vain, the Hottentot _forelouper_ +screamed, and leaped, and scolded "Ireland" and "Scotland." He might as +well have attempted to move those two ancient kingdoms from their +foundations, as the oxen named after them: they only tossed their heads +at him and their tails at the driver as if in pure scorn. They were +weary, and chose to rest! The despairing escort, foreseeing delay, used +frantic exertions to push the huge vehicle from behind, and the drivers +in the rear took advantage of the blockade to light their pipes and +smoke them with their usual imperturbability. The shrill voices of the +vrouws, who accompany their husbands on all occasions, to make their +coffee, light their fires, and broil their carbonatje, formed a chorus, +in very high treble and very low Dutch, to the unmusical medley. + +At length, there was at attempt at an advance; but, as the leaders would +only move up the face of the hill on one side, or down the slope on the +other, very little ground was got over; and, soon after sunset, the +opening between the hills was illuminated by the fires of the encampment +formed there. + +In March the second campaign fairly commenced; Pato was yet unconquered. +Three companies of the 73rd marched from King William's Town for the +Buffalo Mouth, and were relieved by the same number of the 45th, from +Fort Hare. Colonel Buller, Rifle Brigade, commanded the field-force at +King William's Town; Colonel Van der Meulen, the 73rd, at the mouth of +the Buffalo, where Lieutenant Jervois, R.E., selected the site, and made +preparations for building a military post for 300 men. Colonel +Johnstone, 27th Regiment, was appointed Commandant at Fort Hare. The +great Chief, Macomo, went wandering about the town at Fort Beaufort in a +state of frenzy, from intoxication, having made the canteen his +head-quarters. The only wife, out of ten, who clung to him in his +fallen fortunes, complained, at last, of the injuries he had inflicted +upon her, by blows, as well as with a sharp instrument; and his child, +whom he had in some whim named "Magistrate," narrowly escaped the fate +of the poor little creature at Fort Hare, which, if not murdered at once +by him, died from the effects of his savage treatment. + +The intelligence received from the Buffalo Mouth on the 4th of April, +was, that Major Smith, 73rd, had been wounded by the enemy in ambush +near the camp, when visiting the sentries; and two Burghers and a Fingo +shot. There was the usual detail of cattle stolen and recaptured, with +casualties on both sides pretty equal, waggons fired at, and a +successful chase by Captain Armstrong, Cape Mounted Rifles, after a +Kaffir lad, whom he rode down, but who would give no satisfactory +information, although he was endeavouring to communicate with some +mounted Kaffirs, swimming their horses across the Keiskama. Colonel +Somerset, in his dispatch, suggested "the expediency of establishing a +cavalry post on the cast bank of the Keiskama, to intercept marauding +parties, who are constantly passing out of the Colony with cattle." Sir +Henry Pottinger decided on shooting all such captured cattle as could +not be removed without encumbering the troops, or delaying them in their +operations. + +Colonel Somerset's plan, of dotting the Colony with troops, was the +means of protecting it materially from Kaffir thieves. An old Dutch +settler's cattle were once driven, by a band of these robbers, right +into Commatje's post, on the Fish river; proving that they were hurried +or intercepted in their march, or, what is equally probable, that they +had come from a distance. One lot of cattle was recaptured in the +neighbourhood of Double Drift, another post of the Fish River; the +Kaffir thief was first observed reclining under a bush, calmly +contemplating his precious booty. Occasionally, we were without milk, +in consequence of the milkman's cows having vanished in the night, +within three miles of Graham's Town. Such losses, however, not +unfrequently occurred from carelessness on the part of the owners, or +herds; the cattle straying to the edge of the bush, where there were +always Kaffirs lying in wait to "lift" them. + +Bathurst, in Lower Albany, may be said to defend itself to its best +ability. This pretty settlement has risen and flourished under the +patient labour of emigrants, sent thither in 1820, chiefly through the +instrumentality of the Duke of Newcastle. The labourer, the mechanic, +the unthriving tradesman, the servant without work, may not only find +employment, but are absolutely wanted here. The former may plant his +three, and sometimes four, crops of potatoes in the year, to say nothing +of other produce, and manifold resources of gain and comfort. It is +singular that Great Britain, in 1847, suffered from the failure of the +crops; the gardens of corn, pumpkin, etc, in Kaffirland, were more than +usually productive. + +One of the most thriving establishments I have seen is a location called +Clumber, five miles from Bathurst, originally established by an emigrant +sent hither by the Duke of Newcastle. Here, as in other places, the +chapel is built as a place of refuge in case of war; it stands on a +green mound, commanding an extensive view, and its position is admirably +adapted for the purposes of defence and observation. I am struck with +the church, which would be an ornament to any large, well-built English +town. + +The ride to the Kowie, from Bathurst, is exceedingly pretty, and I shall +never forget the by-path to the sands, from the small inn at Port +Frances. Such is the name of the scattered village (for it cannot be +called a town), rising in the immediate neighbourhood of the little bay, +or, more properly speaking, creek. On turning a corner, we entered a +shrubbery, thickly planted, by the graceful hand of Nature, with a +variety of flowering shrubs and trees. On each side rose tall grey +rocks, relieved in shape and colour by the euphorbia, and other stately +plants. The velvet turf under our feet was enamelled with flowers of +various hues; wreaths of jessamine floated over our paths, and festoons +of the wild cucumber, with its glorious scarlet, but poisonous fruit, +hung in graceful garlands, forming natural arches above our heads. +Silently our little party wound its way through these fragrant and +beautiful arcades. How grand was Nature in her solitude! undisturbed, +save by the occasional trill of some bird, the more valuable because the +voices of birds are seldom heard in the magnificent solitudes of South +Africa! Amid such fair scenes, I have often regretted the want of +water, which always adds life to a picture; but here, on emerging from +this green and quiet nook, our horses bounded upon firm sands, with the +sea before us, dashing up its vast and glittering volumes of spray and +foam in indescribable grandeur. + +The house built for Mr Cock, the enterprising individual who has +resolved on establishing the harbour, gives evidence of great +expectations of success, and, should Port Frances ever assume the +character of a moderately thriving town, it will form a charming +locality for the settler. + +One ordinance of the Lord High Commissioner was important, and doubtless +had a great effect on the Kaffirs, especially at the opening of the +South African winter. All traffic was forbidden "between her Majesty's +subjects (whether residing within or without the boundaries of the +Colony) and the different Kaffir tribes who were still in arms, or had +been recently so, against Her Majesty's paramount authority and +dignity." Instructions to this effect were given to Mr Calderwood, +(Commissioner for the Gaika tribes) on the 25th of March, 1847, but +"that no persons may plead ignorance of, or want of information with +respect to the said notice," Sir Henry Pottinger again announced that +"any of her Majesty's subjects who might attempt, under whatever plea or +pretence; to evade it, would do so at their peril, and would be held to +be in treasonable intercourse with her Majesty's enemies." The +withdrawal of the traders from Kaffirland must have worried the enemy +considerably. The Kaffir is miserable without tobacco; men, women, and +children indulge in smoking to an extraordinary degree; and as the +winter advances they will feel the loss more and more. Snuff is another +luxury with which they have become fairly infatuated--they will even +_eat_ it, frequently swallowing it in the shape of a ball; and the +English blanket is now one of the necessaries of life. They carry their +love of ornament to such an excess, that they have certain fancies +relative to their beads, which have as much sway over the fancies of the +sable belles of Kaffirland, as any fiat, or caprice, from the divan of a +Parisian modiste, or the penetralia of a Mayfair beauty. One year the +leathern bodice of a Tambookie bride is _parsemented_ with beads of a +dead white; another season, the I'Slambie girls will quarrel for a +monopoly of bright blue, and the Gaikas set up an opposition in +necklaces of mock garnet and amber. Birmingham buttons ornament the +skin cloaks of the women of Kaffraria, and brass bangles, from our +manufactories, conceal the symmetry of their arms, which are models for +sculpture. + +Although our British traders would suffer individually, for a time, by +this cessation from their traffic, the most respectable of them +acknowledged that they saw the necessity of it, and anticipated +advantageous results hereafter. The great object of this measure was to +prevent, or rather check, the sale of gunpowder. It is by these means +that the Kaffirs have been enabled for years to collect it, and it is +still to be feared that there are many men among the "pale faces," +wicked enough to traffic, not only in the articles named above, but in +arms and ammunition. Magazines have long been stored with the latter; +and as the traveller passes through a village of Kaffir huts, he little +imagines that two or three of these rude edifices, standing side by +side, were unceasingly and jealously watched by as many idle-looking +savages, whose listless air well conceals the importance of their real +occupation. + +Our enemies soon learned that we were determined on tiring them out; +that we could not only reduce them to subjection, but leave nothing +undone to keep them so. They were made to understand, that we were not +merely "fighting for a hatchet!" During the operations of the troops +under the command of General (late Colonel) Hare, against the Gaika +tribes, the enemy, when beyond the range of our musketry, would call out +from the ridges of the hill, "Well, Umlunghi, have you found the hatchet +yet?" In January, 1847, a Kaffir woman's body being discovered near the +camp at Fort Hare, horribly mutilated, the legs and arms amputated, some +of her countrymen stated that, a stolen hatchet having been found in her +possession, they had determined to make an example of her, lest an +additional cause should arise for the continuance of the war. Had this +been legally investigated and proved against the perpetrators of the +deed, they would have suffered for the atrocity; but, although the story +wanted official confirmation, it was believed by most of those who were +in camp at the time. + +A long line of posts was immediately planned along the Buffalo River. +The General, Sir George Berkeley, had a narrow escape on the 31st of +March, being fired at by the enemy from behind a bush, the ball passing +at no great distance from him. He was encamped at the mouth of the +Buffalo, awaiting the arrival of ships with stores and provisions. No +field operations could take place until the question was decided as to +the practicability of landing cargo there; the surf is at times +tremendous, but the place is allowed to be equal to Waterloo Bay, if not +safer. + +In the mean time patrols were scouring the bush in the neighbourhood of +Pato's gardens, near the Buffalo; and although shots were occasionally +fired into the camps, they were too uncertain to be often effective. As +usual, the enemy was scarcely ever seen; he fired from his cover of +rocks, and thus, his own loss was concealed. Stock and Nonnebe profess +to be friends, and to protect certain passes, but Colonel Somerset +recommended caution in this respect, as he knew they were not to be +trusted. + +In dwelling on the necessity of emigration, as a refuge and amelioration +for the condition of the Irish especially, I have called to mind +circumstances under which I have known great solicitude expressed by +them, when separated from all communication with their priest. The +Roman Catholic clergyman who left this, in 1846, was unremitting in his +duties towards his flock. Sunshine or storm, Father Murphy and his +black horse, each identified with the other, were seen wending their +way, at a sharp pace, towards the humble cottages of Irish emigrants, or +the hospital, where lay some poor Catholic, who "could not die" until he +obtained comfort from his pastor. His successor, the Rev Mr +Devereux, is rapidly gaining the esteem and confidence of his people, by +his unremitting attention and exertions. It is, indeed, honourable to +the colony to witness the readiness with which all unite in the great +purpose of forwarding relief to the poor stricken creatures at home. + +"April 13th.--News from the Front! Sir Henry Pottinger has received an +order from the Home Government to augment the regiment of Cape Mounted +Riflemen to twelve companies, thus adding a battalion to that efficient +corps. + +"I shall look with great anxiety on the progress of recruiting for the +Cape Corps, having long since earnestly dwelt on the advantages to be +derived from such a measure. It is worthy of remark that, when an order +was given in London, in 1842, to raise a certain number of boys, for the +Cape Mounted Riflemen, it was carried out in less than two days, without +the slightest difficulty. The Hottentots here will not be so easily +obtained, at least until better pay is promised. + +"Another victim has fallen a sacrifice, not to the bullet or the +assegai, but to the bodily hardships and anxiety of mind undergone +during the war. The Colony has lost a friend by the death of Mr +Mitford Bowker. For several years he held the appointment of Resident +Agent to the I'Slambie tribes; but after his retirement from this +office, he became a sheep-farmer, and for ten years suffered from the +depredations of the savage. He was one of those brave settlers who +stood by his homestead till `the word had been given to kill,' remaining +on his farm, with his family, till the last moment. Forming a little +encampment near a kloof, he and his brave brothers, with a small body of +steady friends, were attacked by the enemy, whom they kept in check, +losing one of their number, of the name of Webb, Mr Bowker himself +being struck by a ball. At last, from the smallness of the force, they +were compelled to break up their encampment; and then, Mr Bowker, +although long and decidedly opposed to the policy of Sir Andries +Stockenstrom, accepted the appointment of Commandant of part of the +force under the latter officer. Worn out in body and mind, and ruined +in fortune, he finally sought shelter under a brother's roof, and died +at the age of forty-five, leaving a wife and children, with the good +name their father bore as their sole inheritance. + +"In a sketch which I have read of his life, he is spoken of as belonging +to the aristocracy of England, `being related to Lord Redesdale' through +his mother's family. Mrs Bowker's eight sons may be considered among +the props of the Colony, and to their mother they owe an education which +has enabled them to fill the position of British settlers with credit; +and, it might have been, with eminent success. From a stirring mother +of a numerous and thriving family, assisting all in their industrious +occupations, and cheerfully sharing their toils, anxieties, and +difficulties, I hear it stated by her intimate acquaintances that Mrs +Bowker has become a broken-hearted woman. What a reward after more than +twenty years' patience, perseverance, and good example! As an +honourable close to the outline I have quoted of Mr Mitford Bowker's +life, I have to add that he was not merely `a relation of Lord +Redesdale's,' but of our own dear English Miss Mitford--God bless her! + +"In the record of a war, where troops and settlers are united in the +field, and where each among the latter has a stake at issue beyond mere +worldly fame, the settler claims an equal place with the soldier, and +honourable mention when he deserves it. Alas! within the last twelve +months how many have `died and made no sign,' who, with hearts crushed +under the weight of sorrow and anxiety, and toil-worn and dispirited, +have sat down at last, awaiting their release from present misery, in +dull, absolute despair! `Ha!' exclaimed the Kaffir scouts one day from +the hills, `ha! ha! Umlunghi, we will put the cold hand upon you!' +Truly, they have kept their word, in more ways than one. Those who fell +in the first engagements have escaped a year's anguish, and much `hope +deferred.' Let us trust that those who die now, like Mr Bowker, +leaving his widow and children mourning for him on his desolate land, +may at least close their eyes on the dawning of a bright horizon." + +I must not omit to mention the death of another settler, Mr Philip +Norton, holding the temporary rank of Captain in the Graham's Town +Hottentot Levy. Here we have the same record of misery, the same tale +of slow fever induced by the fatigue, exposure, and privations +incidental to the state of this frontier at the present juncture. +Driven from his home, a year before, by the rush of the Kaffirs, his +premises were fired, his flocks were scattered, and he was obliged to +take up arms in the common defence. At the age of seven-and-twenty, +this young man, who commenced his career with every prospect of success, +dies the victim of the late disastrous war, leaving a young widow and +four little children to mourn his loss. + + + +PART TWO, CHAPTER FIFTEEN. + +CAPABILITIES OF THE COLONY. + +"April 20th, 1847.--To-day is the anniversary of our sad intelligence +from the Amatolas, with its list of killed and wounded. It is a +singular fact that the Kaffirs themselves dislike to be questioned +concerning the remains of poor Captain Bambrick, but have no hesitation +in speaking of other sufferers. + +"Within the year we have heard of the death of the late +Lieutenant-Governor of the Eastern Province of the Cape of Good Hope. +Major-General Hare died on board the `Essex,' four days after leaving +this country for England. He, indeed, may be considered as one of the +principal victims of the war. Long ere the irruption burst forth, he +should have been at home. In 1845, finding his health declining, he +expressed desire to be relieved from the duties of his appointment, and +it is most deeply to be deplored that his wishes were not complied with +at once. When he was called to the field, all ideas of self were laid +aside; and who shall say what the gallant soldier suffered, in mind and +body, at the very moment the cheers of encouragement burst from his +lips? Whatever may be said of his political career, when +Lieutenant-Governor, the difficulties he had to contend with would, if +explained, be sufficient excuse for many errors set down as wilful. He +is dead! and it is a pleasure to recall his many excellent qualities. +If he was not the man for South Africa, let it be remembered that, +during the most eventful period of his government, he was here against +his will, and that, having led his old corps against the ungrateful +Gaikas, whom it had been his chief fault to trust and treat too kindly-- +when, I say, he had headed the 27th once more, with honour to himself +and them, he left the field, debilitated from fatigue and anxiety; and +it was not until the mountains of the land in which he had suffered so +much had faded from his sight, that `he turned his face to the wall,' in +the cheerless cabin of that restless ship, and died of a broken heart; +for such, in fact, his disease may be pronounced." + +One of the last anecdotes recorded of him, though trifling, is one of +the many proofs of his kind nature. When about to leave Fort Beaufort +for the field, and engaged in giving over the command of the Northern +District to Captain Ward, 91st Regiment, his attention was diverted from +the arrangements for defence to a little child who passed him by, +looking up smilingly in his face. Bastions, forts, bridges, +picquet-houses, etc, faded from the mind of the single-hearted soldier; +the child's smile was returned, and the kind eyes followed her +retreating footsteps till she passed out of sight. The attention of the +officer engaged with Colonel Hare was more particularly recalled to this +little incident, by his Commander returning gravely and officially to +the solemn charge he was handing over, namely, the defence of a large +garrison town, with scarcely any garrison to protect it. It may be +added that Mrs Hare was one of the inhabitants left to the mercy of the +invaders, who, however, never came beyond the outskirts of the place; +and Colonel Hare was pleased to express himself highly satisfied with +the arrangements made by Captain Ward. Neither cattle nor horses were +lost in the immediate neighbourhood of Fort Beaufort, during the period +of that officer's command, nor did the enemy venture to fulfil their +threat of invasion. + +The registration system is dying a natural death; at least, such an +inference may be drawn from the order lately given to officers, not to +inquire for their tickets of Kaffirs who may be found driving cattle. +Many months ago, a party of the 27th Regiment, suspecting that some +cattle found in a kraal was stolen, demanded the necessary credentials, +when a Kaffir coolly offered as such, a leaf from a soldier's pocket +ledger, picked up, perhaps, after the burning of the waggons at Burn's +Hill. + +The immediate border of the Colony was subject to the usual +depredations; the Chiefs making the old excuse, that they "are sitting +still, but that they cannot control their people." + +The post established at Waterloo Bay, under the command of Captain +Savage, 91st Regiment, became the favourite haunt of these thieving +wretches, in consequence of the number of waggons collected there, +waiting for supplies. A clear front offers a great temptation to these +cattle-lifters; and, on the 22nd of April, Lieutenant Butler, 7th +Dragoon Guards, had a smart gallop after the enemy. On the 21st, sixty +waggon-oxen were whistled away through the bush: the Dragoons pursued +them; but, sighting them at dark, could not come up with them in time to +attack the thieves. From the scanty force we have, compared with the +land we have taken, sufficient guards cannot be given for the cattle in +the pasture-grounds, sometimes a mile from the posts, and, by the time +the herds,--if not shot,--can give notice of the loss, the Kaffirs, with +half-an-hour's start, can generally elude their pursuers. But, on the +22nd of April, the Dragoons, only ten in number, were in the saddle in a +few minutes; yet, notwithstanding this, they had a ride of fifteen miles +before they came up with their game, having traced the spoor along the +sea-coast. The robbers were caught at the mouth of the Beka River, +where Lieutenant Butler cut them off. The cattle were retaken, and +three of the enemy killed. Only four had been employed in the marauding +expedition, though, doubtless, there was a horde in the bush. The +fourth fell to Mr Butler's lot to despatch; and he, having ridden down +the savage, struck him on the head with his sabre, which broke at the +hilt; and the Kaffir, clinging to the officer's stirrups, and imploring +mercy, Mr Butler gave him his life, and took him on, as a prisoner, to +Waterloo Bay, with some guns and a number of assegais. Unfortunately, +in his transit from Waterloo Bay to Fort Peddie, being tied by one hand +to a waggon, he soon slipped the _reim_ [Note 1], and escaped. + +On the 30th of April, a soldier of the 6th was found murdered very near +the camp. + +Colonel Somerset lately recommended that a guard of cavalry should be +placed at the ebb and flow-drift near the mouth of the Keiskama, this +river lying between the Great Fish and Buffalo Rivers, to intercept +marauders; but there are no cavalry to send thither; and, at this +juncture, we hear of troubles with the Griquas and Boers, near the +Orange River. The Resident, Captain Warden, Cape Mounted Rifles, has +applied for troops, and Lieutenant Plestow, 7th Dragoon Guards, has +marched to the Modda River, with thirty men of his regiment. + +Lieutenant Davis, late Adjutant of the 90th Light Infantry, having been +appointed Superintendent of Native Police, has succeeded in drilling and +organising a very efficient force, consisting chiefly of "tame" Kaffirs. + +During our residence at Fort Peddie in 1843-4, we were frequently struck +with the idleness of the Fingoes. The women, poor creatures, tilled the +ground, carried water, cut wood, ground the corn,--in short, did all the +heavy work; and the little boys and old men herded the cattle; while the +young men, unless called out on a _commando_, for a few weeks or days in +a year, spent their time in hunting, dancing, eating, and sleeping, and, +not unfrequently, in lifting their neighbours' cattle. It was at this +period that Captain Ward, 91st Regiment, deprecating so weak a system, +proposed to the Lieutenant-Governor to have these Fingoes organised, +armed, and drilled as regular troops, by British non-commissioned +officers; but Colonel Hare neither then nor afterwards dreamed of the +mine which was about to explode beneath his feet, and the suggestion was +not seriously considered by his Honour. + +When we read of the distress of our own country, and of the wretched +earnings of our mechanics, we are disgusted at the idea of these same +Fingoes striking work (as Coolies) at Waterloo Bay, being dissatisfied +with the pay of 2 shillings a day. As their services are necessary in +landing cargo, their demand of 3 shillings a day has been acceded to, +and they have consented to work, when it suits them! for they take +occasional holidays, for dancing and eating. At Algoa Bay, the Fingoes +are often paid 6 shillings a day for working as Coolies. + +What a settlement for the starving Highlanders the Amatola Mountains +would be! And what employment offers itself along the coast for the +active Irish! If the Amatolas were devoted partially to agriculture, +instead of pasturage, or to sheep-farming, with a view to the +exportation of wool, there would be comparatively no temptation for the +Kaffir, and a New Erin might rise, upon the eastern shore of this +fertile country. Its very productiveness renders agriculture an +uncertain speculation, in consequence of the small population: here +again, emigration provides the remedy. It is to be hoped that the Royal +Society will send hither intelligent and truthful individuals, who would +make none but just reports of the capabilities of the colony. Coffee, +sugar, and innumerable other articles might be raised here; flax, +particularly, would be successful; and the discovery of coal at Natal, +leads scientific men to infer that it is to be found elsewhere. At the +Kowie, it is pretty well ascertained to be in existence. We learn from +Natal, that the military there are intent on farming, the productive +soil tempting many to purchase land, with the intention of settling. We +might thin our dark mines of England, by sending men to South Africa, to +work the treasures of her earth. It is, however, of the utmost +importance, that the Emigration Societies should be particular as to the +class of people selected. + +Captain Hogg, 7th Dragoon Guards, has succeeded in raising another levy +of about 200 Hottentots from the lower districts, who are expected at +Waterloo Bay on the 10th of May. Lieutenant Forsyth, R.N., is relieved +from his duties as a harbour-master at this bay by Lieutenant Connolly, +R.N. Lieutenant Forsyth was appointed to this office at the Buffalo +Mouth, 30th of April. The long-looked-for vessel, the "Frederick Huth," +has at last reached the Buffalo in safety, after a month's voyage from +Port Elizabeth, Algoa Bay. She was seen three weeks since off the +Buffalo, and was driven back to Waterloo Bay. At last, she was again +sighted eight or ten miles from her place of destination: a mist came +on, and it was doubtful whether she could make her way over the bar. At +length, the curtain of vapour, which hung between Colonel Van der +Meulen's camp and the ocean, was lifted up, and there at last lay the +welcome ship at anchor. The landing of the cargo is progressing +favourably, which is at this moment of great advantage to the troops, +their provisions being at a very low ebb. + +The first step taken by the Lieutenant-Governor, Sir Henry Young, has +been to send the Chief, Umyeki, out of Graham's Town. + +"May 10th.--Further particulars have been received of the murder of the +soldier of the 6th. Those on the spot, and most capable of judging, are +of opinion that this horrible deed has been committed by Fingoes. It +seems that, on the unhappy man's cries being heard, the guard rushed to +his assistance. A little pool of blood was observed near the spot where +he had fallen, and he had been dragged some sixty yards along the road. +A gun-shot wound in the body, and an assegai stab in the heart, had +silenced his cries speedily. The _spoor_ of three or four men was +traced towards Peddie; and, as the murdered man had some tobacco about +him, and an empty case, with a hatchet beside it, lay near him, it is +supposed, that, having gone to fetch some stolen and secreted tobacco +from the bush, he was waylaid by Fingoes and murdered, for the sake of +the plunder. As no cattle were near the place, it is not likely that +Kaffirs would be lurking there. + +"We have an instance to-day, the 19th of May, of our enemy's +perseverance and determination, in the report from a patrol in search of +stolen cattle. A private of the Rifle Brigade, having lost his way in +the bush, heard Kaffirs approaching the spot where he lay _perdu_; +thanks to his green jacket, he was enabled to watch the movements of the +savages, without decided danger to himself. They approached a kloof, in +which one of their number awaited them. The rifleman saw them handing +their arms to the Kaffirs in the ravine, who concealed them in some nook +selected for the purpose. Watching his opportunity, the soldier +effected his journey back to the camp; and, on giving his information, +Lieutenant Macdonald, and a party of the Cape Mounted Rifles, were sent +out to search the spot, for the muskets and ammunition hidden. From +this, it may be inferred that there are many similar depots of arms in +the bush." + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + +Note 1. "Reims" are strips of bullock-hide used as thongs, and +constantly carried in this country, by experienced travellers, for +repairing broken girths, etc, and so on. One day, when out riding, my +stirrup-leather broke, and the Orderly of the Cape Corps was about to +receive a sharp reproof from the Officer who accompanied me, for not +having a reim, when he pulled some hairs out of his horse's tail, which +served the purpose at once. + + + +PART TWO, CHAPTER SIXTEEN. + +SURRENDER OF SANDILLA. + +Sandilla came into Graham's Town, as a captive, on Sunday, the 25th of +October, 1847, closely guarded by a body of Cape Mounted Riflemen and +7th Dragoon Guards, under Captain Bisset and Lieutenant Petre, and +attended by the Councillors, and his own brother, Anta (a young man of +great talents and energy, and his chief warrior), he rode through the +streets, just as the church doors opened to send forth the Christian +observers of the Sabbath. Bare-headed, and with downcast eyes, his +withered limb hanging below his kaross, marking him as the restless +Gaika,--he who had issued his "word" from the mountain-side, over his +wide-spread and beautiful territory, now passed on a prisoner, followed +by a few Hottentot boys! + +How little could that wild creature comprehend the feelings of white +men, as they watched him on his way! There was, of course, great +satisfaction at seeing him thus secured; but all anger would have been +as much thrown away on him as on the wild beast which it is necessary to +cage. The cavalcade moved slowly through the streets, the Drostdy +barrack-ground is reached, the soldiers on guard at last behold the man +whom they have so long sought--the door of a large empty store is thrown +open, and, in another moment, the fallen Chief sits down, in that dim +space, with his followers. The free air and the bright sun make but +little way through the narrow loop-holes, and the shape and aspect of +his prison must offer a wretched contrast to the broad valleys and free +mountain paths which the ill-advised and misguided Lord of the Amakosas +has forfeited. + +It was the useful green-jackets, the untiring Rifle Brigade, who worried +Sandilla out of his hiding-place among the mountains. In June, the +troops were about to hut themselves for the first months of the winter +season, which, in this climate, is so uncertain as to render all +calculations relative to military movements useless. Our enemy took +advantage of this temporary cessation of hostilities to burn all the +grass, from the Buffalo to the Kei, and to take his usual pastime in +cattle-stealing. Happily, the Colony was tolerably well guarded, and +the boundary vigilantly watched; the colonists, too, had not only much +less cattle to lose, but took the precaution of drawing nearer the +towns, with their families and property. + +Sandilla remained in the neighbourhood of Fort Hare during the pause in +our operations. On the other side of the Buffalo River, Pato was +coquetting with the authorities, now sending Jan Tzatzoe with a +conciliatory message, and now making his simple-minded brother, Cobus +Congo, an envoy to our camps with a flag of truce, and hollow +protestations. At last, he consented to come in and surrender himself +unconditionally, as was required by the Government; but this step was +prevented by a skirmish between our troops and Sandilla's immediate +followers. Pato, of course, changed his mind, to wait the result of +this affair, handed over the stolen cattle to the care of Kreli, beyond +the Kei, and sat down quietly to observe our proceeding. + +The affair in question, which took place on the 15th of June, was as +follows:-- + +Some colonial property (goats and horses) were stolen by Kaffirs from +the Kat river settlement; the spoor of these was traced to the territory +of Sandilla, who, with every appearance of good faith, returned them to +Fort Hare. But, although he did this, he determined on turning the +robbery to good account, and punished the thief by "eating him up," +appropriating his cattle to his own royal purposes, thus taking the law +into his own hands; and, finally, refusing to give up the thief to the +patrol sent for him by our authorities. This patrol consisted of two +troops of the 7th Dragoon Guards, two companies of the 45th Regiment, +small detachments of the Cape Corps, a Fingo levy, and eighty of the +Kaffir Police. These were deputed to demand the thief, and a fine of +three head of cattle, from the Gaika Chief. The cunning Sandilla "knew +nothing of the thief," the goats "had been found straying." The troops +secured the Chief's cattle; but, on their return towards Fort Hare, were +waylaid by the Kaffirs in great numbers. These called out, "You have +done well to come to the old graves," alluding to the battle at Burn's +Hill, in April, 1846; and, following the troops nearly to Fort Hare, +they succeeded in re-capturing almost all the cattle, exclaiming, as +they retired with their prize, "By and by, you will learn wisdom, and +not come again." + +Lieutenant Davis was in command of the Kaffir Police, so successfully +organised by him, on this occasion. These men "fought bravely, and did +good service against their countrymen," "a fact," says the Graham's Town +Journal, "which only shows that, when self-interest is sufficiently +influential, they will sacrifice those of their own blood with as little +remorse as they will the colonists." [Their treachery has since been +plainly manifested.] Lieutenant Russell, of the Kaffir Police, was +killed, at the early age of twenty-three; eight or ten casualties, +killed and wounded, occurred on our side, and several of the enemy are +supposed to have fallen. + +The Christian Kaffir, Kama, who had served us well during this war, +against the Tambookies, remonstrated when called upon to fight against +the Gaikas. He was willing, he said, to defend the white man's property +and rights, and this he did with the remnant of his tribe, but he begged +the Government would not insist on his attacking his own people in their +haunts. Kama and his little band have not eaten the bread of idleness +during the war; cattle have been rescued by them, positions defended, +and safe escort to travellers afforded. + +On Sir George Berkeley reaching Fort Hare, on the 22nd of June, Sandilla +sent him a few cows as a peace-offering for his late offence, saying, +that "the account was fairly balanced in the late affray with his +people--two being killed on either side; and he therefore hoped nothing +more would be said about it." Sir George Berkeley returned to Graham's +Town a few days after, and it being determined to trust no longer to +Sandilla's promises, it was resolved to commence active operations +against him in August or September. Meanwhile Sir Henry Pottinger +published a proclamation, dated 7th August, declaring Sandilla a rebel, +and no longer under the protection of the British Government, and +calling on all to assemble in Commandos against him; the final clause +related to the neutral tribes, and closed in these words: + +"I do strictly, solemnly, and unqualifiedly enjoin and command all +persons heaping allegiance to her Majesty, to refrain from molesting +such neutral (or friendly) Kaffirs, and to consider the protection of +them and their lives and property to be a paramount duty." + +So, now, this headstrong savage became a hunted outlaw. He who had +vowed to drive the white man to the sea,--that white man who should not +"taste of the Tyumie waters,"--had not now a resting-place for his head! + +The remembrance of an interview I once had with Tola [Tola, Dodo, Eno, +Moshesh (Moses), will be recognised as patriarchal names] occurs to me +at this moment. It was in a picturesque spot near Colonel Somerset's +residence at Post Victoria, in the centre of a large bower, which had +been constructed round some splendid trees. What had once been a fair +pasture land for Tola's herds, was now worn with the tread of soldiers' +feet; the stir of the camp filled the air which once breathed over a +comparatively silent space, and not far from us a band played Irish +tunes, to which Tola's Kaffir councillors and attendants listened with a +grave silence, unmoved at the grotesque attitudes of Hottentot children. +On a rustic bench sat Tola, with his kaross wound round him; his face +resembled that of a wolf--his eyes glaring and the teeth projecting, and +his hair, dressed with red clay, looked more like a knitted worsted wig +than anything else. There were other ladies present besides myself, and +also some officers. I asked Tola if he belonged to the war-party? He +replied, it was only the young men of Kaffirland who were for war,--he +loved peace. He is the freebooter of his tribe! + +"Why," I asked, "are the young men permitted to raise their voices above +the old ones?" + +"The young men are numerous, and hold the assegai." + +"Well, have the old men no power to restrain them from throwing it?" I +inquired. "If so, Young Kaffirland will soon have the voice in council, +and there will be little wisdom." + +Tola sat in deep silence many minutes, and then observed, "It is true." +He afterwards asked the interpreter how it was that white women spoke +with the minds of men? A female offering any opinion at all was a +source of astonishment to him. The Kaffir women are, however, +remarkable for shrewdness; but this is seldom exercised but upon great +occasions, and then only by witch-doctresses, who profess also to have +the gift of prophecy. + +All this time that Tola was professing to deprecate war, he was filling +his kraals with colonial cattle, sending out marauding parties +(gipsies), and collecting ammunition. + +An English paper states, "it is said that the attack on the escort in +charge of a Kaffir prisoner, was absolutely planned, by Bothman and +Tola, on the market-place at Fort Beaufort." That it was planned there, +and carried into execution an hour or two afterwards, I know, and that +Tola was the planner. Bothman is an inferior Chief and quite dropsical. +We one day met him out riding; he begged us to raise our veils, which +we did, laughing, and he acknowledged the courtesy by a sound between a +bark and a sigh. + +When the movement of the troops was anticipated by Sandilla, he named +Macomo's son, Kona, as his successor, in the event of his death. Of +Kona's wife, an anecdote, illustrative of her shrewdness, was told me by +the Acting Quartermaster-General at Block Drift. During a foray made on +a Kaffir kraal in that neighbourhood, the enemy fired on our troops, and +managed, ere the fire was returned, to screen themselves behind some of +their women. Among these was Kona's wife. Some days afterwards, she +presented herself to Capt. Scott, 91st Regiment, Acting +Quartermaster-General, saying that Colonel Hare had desired her to ask +him for rations, in consequence of her previous suffering and distress. +As a token of the truth of her statement, she produced a biscuit which +Colonel Hare had given her, desiring her, she said, to show it to +Captain Scott, in proof of her assertion. Rations were issued to her, +and she enjoyed them till Colonel Hare counter-ordered them, never +having mentioned the subject to her: he had merely given her a biscuit +when he met her, as she complained of hunger! + +We were not sorry to hear that the women of Kaffirland began to dread an +invasion of their kraals, and threatened to strike work. They were +tired of the war, they said. Although they have no voice, their +assistance in the Ordnance and Commissariat departments is invaluable. +Poor wretches! no wonder they dreaded another year of privation and +toil. + +The advantages of the opening of the Buffalo River were particularly +manifested in the facility with which the "Rosamond" steamer landed +troops and ordnance stores there, on the 28th of July, in the space of +two hours and a half, in perfect safety; and the 90th thus accomplished +in little more than a fortnight, a journey which, by the old route, +could not have been performed under at least six weeks, and most +probably two months. + +A tradition has been handed down among the Kaffirs, similar to a +superstition entertained by the Burmese. To the latter, it had been +foretold by their priests that, as soon as a vessel without sails, or +rowers, should be seen in the Irawaddy River, Burmah would fall. The +appearance of the "Enterprise" steamer in their river daunted their +spirits, and contributed in a great measure, to discourage the Burmese +troops. The Kaffirs relate, that a prophecy exists among them to the +effect "that when sea-waggons shall make their resting-places in the +mouth of the Buffalo, Kaffirland shall _die_." + +The 20th of August had been originally fixed for the march upon the +Amatolas, but unavoidable delays occurred, which might have been +disadvantageous, but that time was given for the grass to grow which the +enemy had burned. The Cape Corps, with the addition of several young +officers, left Graham's Town in high spirits at the prospect of +"smelling powder," but the Burghers were, in most instances, unwilling +to take the field, notwithstanding the promise held out to them, that +the cattle they might take should become their property. + +In September, all became anxious for the march of the British troops +upon the Amatolas. Various reports were afloat, some of them probably +having originated among the Kaffirs themselves. Sandilla was said to be +assembling his warriors; Pato and Kreli were to combine their forces; +and many other similar rumours, not to be relied on, but sufficiently +alarming to the inhabitants of isolated farms, were circulated. + +Sir George Berkeley left Graham's Town for the front; Colonel Somerset +marshalled his people along the Buffalo line; and on the 17th of +September the army was fairly set in motion, with its face towards one +great rallying-point, the mountains of the Amatola, which were to be +entered at three given points, viz, by the Burgher and Native levies, +under Major Sutton, Cape Mounted Riflemen, and Captain Hogg, 7th Dragoon +Guards, from Shiloh, upon the upper part of the Amatola; Colonel +Somerset, with the Cape Mounted Rifles, from King William's Town; and +Lieutenant-Colonel Campbell, with reserve battalion 91st Regiment, a +strong detachment of the 45th, and some Burghers, from Fort Hare. I +subjoin, as much more graphic than any description of mine, the +following account of the "gathering" of the Reserve Battalion, 91st, at +Fort Beaufort, on the morning of their march to Fort Hare, where they +were to take up their position previously to their movements on the +enemy's territories. The extract is from "a letter addressed by a young +soldier to his friend." + +"The Colonel (Campbell) and our men left this on the 17th, and after +scouring every hole and corner in the Amatolas, succeeded, I believe in +killing some fourteen Kaffirs. Colonel Campbell took the pipes with +him, gaily decorated with ribbons and a flag. The drums played them out +with `The Campbells are coming.' They were all in good spirits; and, as +they passed the barracks from the main square, the men who were left +behind commenced cheering them, and they returned it with a will. I +don't think there was one left that would not gladly have gone to the +field at that moment, especially under such a Commander as Colonel +Campbell. After searching the kloofs, the division ascended the hill, +where the Kaffirs were so _civil_ to us at _first_, and, not seeing the +enemy, they had a dance at the top, the pipes playing a national tune, +to which--danced the Highland Fling, just to begin the performance." +[Note 1.] + +After eighteen months' warfare, with so harassing and treacherous a foe, +it was something to see men start again with such spirit for their work. + +Sir George Berkeley made good use of the unavoidable postponement of the +march upon the enemy. The camps were well stored with provisions and +ammunition, supplies were laid in for a hundred days, and everything was +made ready for military movements, when the time should arrive for them. +Thieving went on, but the Colony escaped another irruption, owing to +the boundaries being well garrisoned. + +The Commander-in-Chief having waited till the great machine was prepared +to work, set it in motion, and, on the 20th of September, each division +was at the post appointed for co-operating with the others. All was +well arranged, and Sir George Berkeley gave good evidence of his +generalship in his determination not to make an advance without a large +force, well provisioned, and unencumbered with baggage. There were +three grand divisions; these encamped on their allotted ground, and from +their camps sent forth their patrols into the mountain passes, without +waggons, and in the lightest marching order. + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + +Note 1. During the advance of the enemy on Block Drift, at the +beginning of the war, and when this post was commanded by +Lieutenant-Colonel (then Major Campbell), he took up a position on the +top of the school-house, rifle in hand; four men were employed in +loading his arms for him, and he brought down two of the enemy +successively in a few minutes. When a third fell dead, a soldier of the +reserve battalion 91st Regiment, could restrain himself no longer; +forgetting Colonel Campbell's rank as an officer, in his delight at his +prowess as a soldier, the man slapped his Commanding Officer on the back +with a shout of delight, and the exclamation, "Weel done, Sodger!" Was +not such a compliment worth all the praise of an elaborate despatch. + + + +PART TWO, CHAPTER SEVENTEEN. + +PROSPECTS OF PEACE. + +The rain fell in torrents throughout the Colony, but this did not deter +the patrols from advancing on the enemy's country. As the Kaffirs did +not think it wise to show themselves to such large bodies of troops, +nothing took place, at first, but a conflagration among the huts and +kraals of the contumacious Gaikas; it was, however, well-known, that +they had not left their hiding-places. Towards the Mancazana, some +houses were fired, probably in retaliation, and the usual system of +cattle-lifting, though to less extent, was carried on in the Colony by +gipsy parties of the enemy. + +In the meantime, old Sutu, Sandilla's mother, sent word to Sir George +Berkeley that Sandilla was "the Governor's dog," etc, etc; that, "if the +Government would accept his submission, he would behave better," and so +on. These messages were like all the rest--hollow and designing. The +Kaffirs under Tyalie, a petty Chief, having captured twelve hundred head +of cattle from Sandilla, claimed a right, as British subjects, to retain +them, according to the Governor's notice; but, as this was suspected to +be a _ruse_ adopted by Sandilla himself, the troops under +Lieutenant-Colonel Campbell, Reserve Battalion, 91st Regiment, were sent +forward to secure the cattle. + +Several Kaffirs, caught in the act of stealing were brought into King +William's Town; and, after receiving one hundred lashes, were dismissed. +Prison rations were thus dispensed with, and these Kaffirs became, for +a period a least, a warning and a mockery to their tribes. In +Kaffirland, as in China, disgrace is attached to a thief, not for +stealing, but for being found out. + +The division under Major Sutton, Cape Mounted Rifles, and Captain Hogg, +7th Dragoon Guards, which had moved from Shiloh, captured two hundred +head of cattle in the Amatolas, and killed a few Kaffirs; with the loss, +on our side, of Serjeant Phillips, Cape Mounted Rifles, and formerly of +the 91st. + +Although incessant rains deluged the country, the troops continued +healthy. In reply to Sandilla's messages, Jan T'Jatzoe was desired to +intimate to him that no terms would be listened to from him but those of +unconditional surrender. + +This T'Jatzoe, to whom I have before alluded as a Kaffir who had been +exhibited in England [at Exeter Hall, at Sheffield, etc, in 1836] in the +false character of a Christian Chief, played a cunning part during the +war of 1846-7, and was actually engaged in the attack on the waggons at +Trumpeter's Drift. The British public were completely imposed upon by +this savage heathen, for such he is, and ever will be. On his return +from England, whither he had gone, or rather been taken, in direct +opposition to the orders and wishes of his father, a petty Chief [Note +1], he was asked many questions by his tribe, concerning the country he +had visited. + +"Was it large?" + +"Yes, it was large; but the people were so numerous they found it +small." + +"Were they so very numerous?" + +"Yes; England was like a huge piece of meat covered with flies crowding +upon each other." + +"What surprised him most?" + +"The waggons which travelled without oxen or horses." (Railway +carriages.) + +"Ah," said Macomo, after a conversation of this kind with T'Jatzoe, "I +have always told our people, that there was no use in trying to conquer +the white man. It is like little boys attempting to shoot elephants +with small bows and arrows." + +Macomo, with all his people were removed to the neighbourhood of Algoa +Bay. He was opposed to the war, from policy, from the beginning; but +when once the cry was raised in the mountains, he immediately assumed +the command, being the General of the Gaikas, and, when sober, an able +warrior and councillor. He was glad when an opportunity offered of +surrendering himself, the charms of the canteen superseding the desire +for glory among his tribe; but he used every means to remain on his old +location. His appeal was pathetic enough, but we have profited somewhat +by our experience in the "word of a Kaffir." "Here," said he, +stretching his hand over the beautiful territory, "my father, a great +Chief, dwelt; these pastures were crowded with cattle", stolen, of +course; "here I have lived to grow old; here my children have been born; +let me die in peace where I have so long lived." These entreaties, +however, could not be listened to for one moment; and, as a last trial, +his daughter, Amakeya, the beauty of Kaffirland, made her way to the +tent of Colonel Campbell, 91st Regiment, who, totally unprepared for her +appearance, was yet more astonished at the sacrifice she offered, if her +father's sentence of banishment might be rescinded. + +I have elsewhere mentioned Amakeya as the belle of the camp at Fort +Hare, and no doubt she had been sufficiently reminded of her charms to +make her sensible of the value of them. She made her strange offer in +all the consciousness and pride of beauty; and, with her finely-moulded +arms folded before her, she spoke without hesitation, for she was guided +by motives worthy a lofty cause--motives, how desecrated! how degraded! +Poor Amakeya! + +"If her father might remain on his own lands," she said, "she would be +the sacrifice and guarantee for his future good faith towards the white +man. She would leave her own people, and follow Colonel Campbell; his +home should be hers; she would forsake all, and dwell with him. This +was her last word, her final decision, and she would abide by it." + +It may here be observed, that the young girls in Kaffirland are brought +up with strict notions of female propriety; to forfeit their reputation, +is to entail on themselves severe punishment, and on their families +perpetual disgrace. + +Amakeya's motives were not unappreciated by her hearer, but the proposal +was, of course, rejected, with every consideration for her position, and +the circumstances by which she had been actuated; and she departed with +her father on his journey. We may fancy Amakeya taking a last look at +the green places wherein her childhood had been passed, and finally +sitting down among a strange people, in sight of the "great waters." A +new and wondrous spectacle to that mountain-girl must have been that +mighty and pathless sea. + +On the 4th of October, an express arrived at King William's Town, +containing the information, that the division under Colonel Somerset had +captured one thousand head of cattle, and a number of horses and goats, +at a sweep, and had killed eight of the enemy. The division under +Colonel Campbell had also been successful in capturing cattle among the +Gaikas, as well as some horses, and in killing some twenty of the enemy, +and laying waste his country. The detachment of the 45th, under Major +Hind, did good service with Colonel Campbell's column; and afterwards +accompanied the head-quarter division to the Kei, together with two +companies of the Reserve Battalion of the 91st, under Captain Scott and +Colonel Campbell, with Lieutenants Dixon and Metcalfe. + +The same work went on, from day to day. Now, our troops captured cattle +from the Gaikas, who, it was ascertained, were a good deal disorganised +[Macomo foretold this, saying "they could not fight when he was gone"]; +and now Pato's I'Slambies slipped away with the oxen pastured near our +camps and bivouacs. The rains poured on, and the troops, though +healthy, suffered from the unusual cold. There was nothing to be done +with the enemy but to worry him; which was attended with dreadful harass +to us. + +As was conjectured, by those who knew the character of the Gaikas, +Sandilla and his people had not entirely abandoned the Amatolas; the +Chief had secreted himself in one of the deep valleys of those +mountains, near a stream called by the Kaffirs, the "Wolf's River." The +nature of the ground secured him from the approach of cavalry, but it +was just the place for the operations of the Rifle Brigade. Sir George +Berkeley's plan of patrolling the country, and falling back on camps +well stored with provisions, in the very neighbourhood of Sandilla, soon +drove the rebel Chief from his haunts. Abandoned by many of his people, +his crops destroyed, his dwelling burned, his cattle scattered among +those he could not trust, and deprived of Macomo's support, he found +himself constantly exposed to the fire of our troops, and at one time, +it is said, he dared not venture to slake his thirst at the stream for +four-and-twenty hours. Thus worn out, without the slightest advantage +to himself or his nation, he resolved on surrendering; and, sending to +King William's Town a message to the effect that "he was driven to this +step by the prospect of starvation," some bread and meat were forwarded +to him by his envoys; and, on the 19th of October, the troops in the +camp, commanded by Colonel Buller, Rifle Brigade, looked anxiously, +through the mists of a stormy day, for the expected prisoner. He came +at last, followed by eighty of his people; and, after an interview with +Colonel Buller, "an escort of dragoons, which had been in readiness," +was ordered to accompany Captain Bisset, Cape Mounted Rifles, and +Lieutenant Petre, 7th Dragoon Guards, with the captive Chief, and the +necessary dispatches from the Lieutenant-General commanding, to Sir +Henry Pottinger. Captain Bisset, on that day, the 20th of October, rode +120 miles. + +Sandilla admitted that he had been nearly taken by a patrol of the Rifle +Brigade, acting with Colonel Somerset's division, on the 12th of +October. The party had lost their way while skirmishing; but for this, +he must have surrendered to them, or been shot. He afterwards told +Colonel Campbell, 91st, that on one occasion they had been within 1200 +feet of each other, the Chief watching Colonel Campbell from the bush. +When passing, as a prisoner, near the camp of this officer, Sandilla +stopped his horse, and, calling to the former "My friend, my friend, +come hither!" begged to shake hands with him. Colonel Campbell's good +advice to the misguided Gaika had been unheeded, and the latter now +acknowledged the truth of what the Colonel had told him, that "it was +madness to fight with the white man, who would not be conquered, even +though the war were to last for ever." + +In the announcement by Sir Henry Pottinger, that the surrender of +Sandilla had taken place, His Excellency the High Commissioner records +"the high sense he entertains of the zeal and energy with which the +operations against Sandilla had been carried on under the +Lieutenant-General's guidance, in which operations the troops and levies +have been subjected to great hardships, and exposed to unusually +inclement weather." + +Immediately after the surrender of Sandilla, Colonel Somerset planned +his forward movement towards the Kei, with a force upwards of 1200 +strong, including cavalry, infantry, and levies. The country beyond the +Kei was known to be swarming with cattle. + +On the 30th of October the troops made a night march of thirty miles +towards the Kei, and, on the morning of the 31st, reached a stream +called Chechabe. On the heights above this little river, the Kaffirs +were seen gathering in great numbers, and at last took up a very strong +position, evidently determined to make a stand against the British +force. The latter was soon disposed in battle array in front of the +enemy, with flankers thrown out, supports in the rear, and the reserve +under Captain Bentinck, 7th Dragoon Guards. The Cape Mounted Rifles, +led by Captain O'Reilly, advanced up the face of the hill, the enemy, as +usual, screening himself, while the troops moved slowly but steadily +onwards, under the incessant fire of the Kaffirs, until within eighty +yards of them, when, the bugle sounding the gallop, the "Totties" +cheered, and entered the bush in gallant style. In twenty minutes, the +savages were dislodged, and driven over a hill into a ravine below, +leaving behind them arms, karosses, and several horses. Seventeen of +them were counted dead after the engagement; many had been borne off, +and the rocks over winch they had been dragged were streaming with +blood. In this affair, our troops sustained but two casualties. + +Colonel Somerset considered that this gathering of the Kaffirs was +arranged to divert his attention from the cattle concealed not far from +the scene of action, the Kei being in too swollen a state to permit +their crossing into Kreli's country--the Amaponda. This was, no doubt, +correct; and as, from the nature of the country, it was impossible for +the troops to follow the enemy at once, they vanished, as usual, in the +deep recesses of the mountains. + +Early in the morning of the 31st, Captain Somerset, Aide-de-Camp to +General Berkeley, had very nearly fallen a sacrifice to his imprudence +in venturing out, _en amateur_, with a single orderly, on the spoor of +cattle. A party of Kaffirs suddenly appearing, Captain Somerset turned +his horse's head; so did his orderly: the speed of Captain Somerset's +charger saved his rider's life; the poor orderly fell from his, and his +throat was instantly cut by the savages. + +It was hoped that the success of Colonel Somerset, at the Chechabe, +would daunt Pato; but no offers of submission worth listening to were +received. A few Kaffirs, coming within hail of the troops, called out +that they "did not intend fighting any more; the cattle were across the +Kei, and the Umlunghi must go for them if they wanted them." Either +Pato or one of his councillors shouted aloud, "We will not meet you, but +will return into the Colony, and wander as wolves." + +Although I had seen Sandilla at Fort Peddie in 1843, I went to pay him a +visit in captivity. The room in which he was imprisoned was half filled +with his followers and councillors. Seated on an iron bedstead, with +his blanket wound round him, he smoked his pipe in silence; some of his +followers reclined idly on the straw mattresses provided for them; and, +by the side of the young Chief's couch lay Anta, whom he roused from +sleep on our naming him, for he was as great an object of interest as +Sandilla. Putting aside the blanket from his face, he sat up and eyed +us keenly, looking from us to his brother, but what was passing within +their minds no one could divine; their countenances expressed neither +surprise, curiosity, resentment, nor dislike. Some sat round a fire in +the centre of the room, and one aged Kaffir, with a grey head, gazed +earnestly in our faces. This was one of Sandilla's chief advisers, and +one whom he managed to cage with himself, by sending for him amicably, +giving secret orders, however, to compel him to come in case he +hesitated. As the cunning Gaika has always professed to act "by the +advice of his councillors," he anticipated that the greater punishment +would devolve upon them, and by this means he trusted that his own would +be lightened. + +The replies of Sandilla to various remarks and questions lately put to +him are shrewd enough. On his being told, by one of the authorities, +that if he attempted to escape from his confinement he would be shot, +Sandilla answered that "as he had voluntarily surrendered himself, it +was not likely he should run away." Soon after his imprisonment, he +requested a daily allowance of wine. On being asked if he had ever been +in the habit of drinking it, he said "No." Then why indulge in what he +had never been accustomed to? "I am now the white man's child," replied +Sandilla; "my father is wise, and I would do all things as he does." +When his warriors left his "Great Place," to join the gathering in the +Amatolas, he found one lingering long behind the rest. "What are you +doing here?" asked the Chief; "you are like a solitary locust when the +swarm has gone; so, the sooner you hop after it the better." + +"December 17th.--The frontier to-night is delirious with joy. The town +is illuminated, and beacon lights telegraph from the hill-tops that Sir +Harry Smith has arrived." + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + +Note 1. As was proved before Sir Harry, then Colonel, Smith, and +published in a document signed by him, and by Captain Lacy, 72nd +Highlanders, Arthur Balfour, Aide-de-Camp, and Mr Shepstone, Kaffir +Interpreter. This document, dated King William's Town, February, 1836, +bears the marks also of Macomo and Ganga. + + + +PART TWO, CHAPTER EIGHTEEN. + +RIDE IN THE WINTERBERG. + +I have lately ridden within the space of a fortnight--and resting half +that fortnight--two hundred and fifty miles, through the country lately +infested, and still haunted, by the savage enemy. It presents a +glorious contrast to last year; the hand of Providence has put aside the +hand of man. The majestic Winterberg mountain, nearly nine thousand +feet high, rose before us in our ride, green almost to its summit. The +valleys beneath us, as we passed from one mountain-top to the other, +were "smiling with corn;" the grass on the plains waved as in our +English meadow-lands; the woodman's axe rang in the forests, near the +scene of many a bloody fray; and, although small groups of Kaffirs +doubtless looked down upon us from many "a leafy nook," we passed up the +steep ascents in the midst of deep jungle and impervious thickets, +unmolested. On the road to Fort Hare, a spot was pointed out to me, on +which a Hottentot waggon-driver had breathed his last. He was shot by +the enemy, who had carried off his oxen, scarcely a month before. A +fortnight after I had travelled that way, with but slight escort,-- +Colonel Campbell, 91st, being the only one of our party who was armed,-- +a man, formerly of the Royal Artillery, was killed by an assegai, thrown +by an unseen hand, from some huts formerly occupied by some of Macomo's +tribe. + +In spite of terrible associations, my ride in the Winterberg Mountains +was a peaceful one, and full of interest. The monkeys swung from bough +to bough, the canaries sang their untiring melodies, the bell-bird +chimed its solemn-sounding note, and there was little to break the calm +of the scene save the advance of the Christian Chief, Kama, with a dozen +dusky followers, all armed and mounted, on his way to Graham's Town. + +The Winterberg is a district taking its name from the mountains so +called--_berg_ meaning mountain, in Dutch. The tops of these mountains +are often covered with snow. The close of the first day's journey from +Graham's Town brought us to the Koonap River, which we found almost +impassable for horses. The troopers of the dragoon orderlies were towed +over in the wake of the boat, trembling, snorting, kicking, some turning +heels uppermost, and others at last submitting to their fate, and +falling exhausted on the bank on reaching it. The river roared and +tumbled, and the passage across, in the old boat, with its uncertain +rope, would have frightened fine ladies. But people must cease to be +fine ladies in Africa. Some of our horses were left picqueted with a +guard of soldiers, and I confess to some uneasiness during the night, as +I lay listening to the noisy torrent below our little inn, half +expecting to hear shots exchanged between the guard and the enemy. The +inn itself was a "sign of the times." The host, Mr Tomlinson, an old +Life Guardsman, had made the place defensible, and stood his ground +during the heat of the war. My bed-room window, hung with white +curtains of primitive English dimity, was still bricked up half way, and +travellers passing by rested their arms against the loop-holed walls, +and told of cattle lost and Kaffirs killed, with an air of as little +concern as they would have worn in relating the prices of a country +fair. + +I was not sorry to hear, the next morning, that our steeds had neither +been stolen by the enemy nor swept down the river. + +After a night's rest at Fort Beaufort, we left it, on the 12th of +November, for Fort Hare, a strange-looking garrison, consisting of +innumerable formal houses of a single room each, reminding one of the +account of some barracks in England, in which an officer can lie in his +bed, stir the fire, open the window, and shut the door, without much +alteration in his position. + +The scenery around Fort Hare is very grand, and not at all in accordance +with the prim little edifices of "wattle and daub" which form precise +squares and most unpicturesque alleys of a pale gingerbread hue. In +approaching Fort Hare, we were obliged to plunge our horses into the +Tyumie stream, amidst a crowd of Kaffir girls, who were swimming, +laughing, and shouting to each other, like a bevy of sable Naiads, from +the bashes and the boughs overhanging the long-disputed waters. + +On the 15th I started, under the care of the Rev Mr Beaver, from Fort +Beaufort, for my ride among the mountains. Colonel Campbell, of the +91st, accompanied us on the first day's journey, beguiling the day with +many graphic anecdotes of the war; and the rest, beside some clear +spring, after passing up the steep ascents between the Blinkwater and +Post Retief, was delightful. This Blinkwater post was ably defended, +during the war, against a hundred and fifty of the enemy at least, by +Serjeant Snodgrass, of the 91st Regiment, and six or eight soldiers. +Serjeant Snodgrass was honourably mentioned in general orders, in +consequence. + +Another rest at Retief, and we advanced the next day. As drew near the +noble Winterberg, it presented the appearance of a huge elephant with a +howdah (of basaltic rock) on its back; a fringe of grey stone round it +gave an idea of its trappings. Our destination was Glenthorn, the +residence of Mr Pringle, one of that family of Yair, familiarly +mentioned by Sir Walter Scott. My short stay, of barely two days, at +Glenthorn, prevented me from seeing much that was interesting; but a +Bushman's cave tempted me, in spite of sun, dust, wind, and a "tempest +coming up," to scramble through a little forest of shrubs. In this +haunt, for it could scarcely be called a cave, we discovered some of +those curious paintings which present a singular memento of these +creatures of an almost extinct race. I have seen various facsimiles of +such drawings published, but the subjects they were intended to +represent have been seldom sufficiently defined to illustrate their +original meaning. The one we saw was perfect in its representation of +an eland and buffalo hunt. One strange pigmy creature sat sideways on +horseback, in full chase of the game; another stood at bay, as if to +prevent the animals from leaving the path into which they had turned; +and others were awaiting them with their poisoned bows and arrows. +[Note 1.] These drawings were done in variously coloured ochres--brown, +red, yellow, and some black. This lovely spot was more like the +dwelling-place of fairies than of the hideous aborigines of South +Africa. A stream rippled under the trees, and the green turf was +spangled with flowers of many colours. The monkeys had doubtless +deserted it at our approach, but their _ropes_ (a peculiar kind of +creeper, hanging like swings from the yellow-wood trees) attested their +constant presence there. We tried to imagine the Bushmen resting here +after their day's hunt, and recording its events on the scarp of rock +facing us, at the head of the wooded eminence, now almost roofed in with +tall trees and parasitical plants. Here they prepared the poisons, for +madness, disease, or death, as suited their wild purposes, from the wild +bulbs which grew in such bright profusion--deceitful things! Now, the +birds were singing above us in the sunshine. The Bushman's foresight +with regard to provision, in this uncertain country, might afford a +lesson to the white man. If they cannot consume at a meal the little +lizards, locusts, etc, on which they prey, they impale them, leaving +them on the thorny bushes, to return to when in need. [This is the +system of the butcher-bird.] + +The Bushmen who have lately been exhibited in London, were described as +belonging to a race of people, "caught on the banks of the Great Fish +River," which is altogether a mistake, as the few Bushmen left in Africa +have now gone far to the northward. The Boers beyond the Orange River +know their haunts, and often supply them with game, to prevent them from +stealing and destroying their sheep, for, what they cannot eat on the +spot, they will kill and mutilate, in the spirit of sheer mischief. +These unfortunate little beings live literally among the clefts of +rocks, subsisting on locusts, roots, and anything else they can find in +the eating way. + +A Dutch farmer, who for some time had regularly furnished a small colony +of Bushmen with game, became surprised at the non-appearance of the +periodical envoys for it, and therefore went up to their +"dwelling-places among the conies." A wretched scene presented itself: +the measles had broken out in the community, and the dead, the dying, +the sick, the old and the young, men, women, and children, were all +heaped together within the caves and nooks of the steep krantzes. He +dragged them from their covert, but they would listen to no suggestions +calculated, if acted on, to remedy or lighten the disease, and all he +could do was to rescue some of the children from the pest-house in the +wilderness. + +Unlike these Bushmen, and some other savages, the Kaffirs are most +cautious in endeavouring to avoid all infections maladies; and, when the +smallpox swept off the aborigines in numbers, the different tribes of +the Kafirs established _cordons sanitaires_, and framed and abided by +the most stringent laws of quarantine. + +I could write many pages on the subject of Mr Pringle's charming and +admirably-planned location. I shall long think of the Bushman's haunt, +the little chapel in the fertile valley, and, above all, the kindly +welcome I met with at Glenthorn, but such agreeable reminiscences must +be reserved for another time; these pages are dedicated to a history of +war and turmoil, and I must not pause to dwell on pleasant memories +connected with my journey through those mountain-ranges. + +None of Mr Pringle's family deserted the mansion during the war. It +was made defensible, and afforded a refuge for many who dared not remain +on their isolated farms. It was quite a little garrison in itself, and +was never even attacked by the Kaffirs. + +On our way to the Mancazana, we rested again at Mr Macmaster's farm--a +place with a pretty, peaceful-looking garden, backed by such cliffs! and +interesting from its being associated with the poet Pringle, and his +works, many of them having been written on this romantic spot. In the +Maacazana valley we passed by the ruins of several farms, and at the +post we heard an indistinct rumour of the deaths of five officers [Note +2]; that such a number had been killed was clear, but to what regiment +they belonged I could not ascertain. In no happy frame of mind I +reached Mr Gilbert's farm, within seven miles of Fort Beaufort; here +again were the evidences of war--bullet-marks on the walls, palisades +torn up, and gates well battened. A charger, formerly belonging to +Captain Bertie Gordon, of the 91st, stood peaceably eating his forage in +the yard, but his once sleek skin was rough, and his frame looked worn. +Poor "Prussian!" his owners regretted his changed appearance, and so did +I. + +On our return to Beaufort, we learned further particulars of this +frightful affair in the field, which were eventually fully confirmed. +The sorrowing comrades of these poor officers have raised a monument to +their memory, on the site of the General's camp on the Conga [see +Appendix I]. + +The following particulars, extracted from the "Cape Frontier Times," +correspond so entirely with the information I received from Sir George +Berkeley himself, from Colonel Somerset, and other private sources, that +I subjoin them in preference to writing my own impressions on the +subject. + +A most magnificent view of the adjacent country, from a peninsula +stretching out upon the Kei, had tempted some of the officers of the +General's camp to form a plan for visiting it. The day before they +started on this expedition, Captain Baker, of the 73rd, dined with Sir +George Berkeley, who told me that had he known the intention of these +ill-fated men to visit a locality so far from the camp, so thickly +wooded and precipitous, he would not have permitted their departure. +Captain Faunee, and Lieutenant Nash, 73rd, were to have accompanied the +party, but happily their duties prevented them from doing so, Lieutenant +Littlehales started with them, but, rain coming on, and having a severe +cold, which he was unwilling to increase in the field, he turned back. +In the evening of Saturday, the 13th of November, "he became alarmed at +the absence of his brother officers; and, half-an-hour afterwards, +Captains Somerset, Berkeley Seymour, (the General's Staff) and Captain +Bisset, C.M.R., started in search of them, and descended into the bed of +the river. It was dark, and they returned at two o'clock on Sunday +morning, their search having been unsuccessful. Two hours afterwards, +the same officers, with a company of the 73rd, took up the spoor of the +missing officers again, and succeeded in finding the unfortunate men in +a deep chasm near the river. They were all lying near each other. It +is conjectured that they had all been to the top of the mountain, from +which elevation they had been seen by the Kaffirs, who had posted a +large body to intercept them on their return." Since the event, this +has been ascertained to have been the case. "At this time, a large +quantity of cattle was perceived going down to the Kei, with a number of +the enemy; a dispatch was immediately sent back to the camp, and the +party was reinforced by detachments from the head-quarter division, and +Colonel Somerset's." The latter headed the people from his own camp. +After a night march of great fatigue, the troops were all anxiety for +the attack: the 73rd were furious, and the sight of the dead bodies, +stripped of everything, and with every proof about them of having fought +desperately against the savages, enraged their brother soldiers more and +more at every step they took. + +The force selected for the engagement, consisted of a hundred and thirty +of the Cape Mounted Riflemen, three hundred of a native levy, thirty or +the 7th Dragoon Guards, and two hundred of the 73rd Regiment; there were +also about eighty farmers: the native infantry were under the command of +Captain Owen. When the dispositions for attack had been made, "the +troops were formed into small divisions, and a point of attack assigned +to each. During these operations, the General and Staff climbed the +Table Mountain, to the top, and Colonel Somerset endeavoured to cross a +ford on the river; but, being baffled in his design, joined the General. +A number of cattle being descried in the bend of the Kei, Colonel +Somerset, with his people, wound down a pass to reach them." The +Kaffirs stood their ground here unusually well, but the 73rd dashed at +them in gallant style, and soon dislodged them, while the Provisionals, +Captain Hogg's levy, and the Cape Corps, pushed onwards for the cattle. +Colonel Somerset was busy exchanging shots with the enemy at one of +their drifts, Lieutenant Macdonald, C.M.R., having been the first, with +his detachment, to commence the attack at the river. + +Before the engagement the troops had marched thirty miles. No great +loss was sustained on the British side, and a great many Kaffir guns +were taken. "Colonel Somerset," remarked the "Graham's Town Journal," +"made an admirable disposition of the force under his command, and +directed the whole movement with great skill. The General overlooked +the whole affair, and is said to have expressed his satisfaction at the +spirited and gallant manner in which the troops, and all who were +engaged, behaved. The gallantry and activity of Colonel Somerset +throughout the affair were conspicuous: directing, under the General, +the whole of the operations below the mountain, he displayed the most +perfect acquaintance with the habits of the enemy and the character of +the country; he was to be seen at every point where danger presented +itself, or direction was needed, and ably and zealously was he supported +by every officer and engaged in one of the severest field-days ever +experienced since the commencement of the present contest." + +At least thirty Kaffirs were counted dead after this action; some of +them wearing the clothes of the deceased officers. Mr Faunt's horse +was captured in the fray, and poor Captain Baker's charger galloped into +the camp, still saddled, and bleeding from an assegai wound in its head. + +Soon after this affair, Colonel Somerset succeeded in crossing the Kei, +with the Cape Corps, and Captain Hogg's levy, all in light marching +order, with supplies for five days. As soon as this force was on the +other side of the river, Pato came back. Captain O'Reilly was then +detached, with some of the Cape Corps, to look for him, when he again +doubled, and escaped with a quantity of Colonial cattle; only four +hundred being captured in the course of these operations. + +Umhala was suspected of sheltering Pato's people and the cattle; and +afterwards, when disturbed on his location by the operations of the +troops, he had the insolence to remonstrate on the inconvenience he was +put to by being thus suspected. Such fallacious reasoning did not +influence Colonel Somerset's plans. The craftiness of these Kaffirs is +the most difficult thing possible to contend with. What, for instance, +could be more cunning than Kreli's reply, when accused of sheltering +Pato? "Colonel Somerset's commands," he said, "had forced Pato over the +Kei into his (the Amaponda) country, and so precipitately that the +stolen Colonial cattle had got mixed up with Kreli's in the +pasture-ground. Now," said Kreli, "this could not have been so, had +Pato come hither with my permission, as, in that case, I should have +separated my cattle from his." He also begged to know on what authority +the British Government had decided that he had sheltered Pato. He was +told, in reply, that the information had been received from certain +Kaffir prisoners, whose names, however, were unknown; whereupon his +councillors answered, "You, Colonel Johnstone (27th), and the Governor, +and Somerset, and Stockenstrom, and Kreli, are great men, and are you +going to settle an important national question, upon the report of +prisoners of whom you know nothing?" Certainly a Kaffir would puzzle +Lord Brougham himself, by his plan of meeting cross questions with +crooked answers. + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + +Note 1. The poison used by the Bushmen is extracted from the serpent's +bag, from the root of the agapanthus, lily, and other plants. + +Note 2. Captain Baker, Lieutenant Faunt, Ensign Burnop, and Surgeon +Campbell, all of the 73rd, and Assistant-Surgeon Loch, 7th Dragoon +Guards. + + + +PART TWO, CHAPTER NINETEEN. + +ARRIVAL OF SIR HARRY SMITH. + +On the 1st of December, 1847, Sir Harry and Lady Smith, with his +Excellency's staff and suite, landed at Cape Town, amid the acclamations +and rejoicings of assembled thousands. I have already alluded to Lady +Smith as "once the favourite of the African Frontier;" and, at a public +assembly. Judge Menzies welcomed the arrival of the Governor and Lady +Smith, by proposing a toast, not to "His Excellency and his Lady," but +to "Harry Smith and his Wife." On all sides their return was hailed +with joy; but, as the colonists are too apt to be guided by results +rather than motives, it is better not to dwell on this reception. + +Sir Henry Pottinger left Graham's Town, under a salute of guns from the +batteries, on the 16th of December, and Sir George Berkeley followed on +the 17th. The great event of the day was the entree of Sir Harry Smith. +The shops were closed, every one made holiday, triumphal arches were +erected, surmounted by inscriptions proclaiming welcome to the new +Governor and old friend. The very _bonhommie_ with which Sir Harry had +met his old acquaintances--even an old Hottentot serjeant, with whom he +shook hands on the road--procured for him a ready popularity ere he +entered Graham's Town. + +At Sidbury, within thirty miles of the town, Sir Henry Pottinger and his +successor had a short conference. There is no doubt the latter had +brought his instructions from the Colonial Office with him; but the +meeting between two such men, and the conference on the destinies of +South Africa, at a scattered village on the borders, must have been +connected with singular and interesting associations. + +From Port Elizabeth to Graham's Town one scene of joy and welcome +presented itself. Soon after landing at the former place, his +Excellency made his appearance before a throng of spectators, amongst +whom he recognised the Chief Macomo. At sight of him, Sir Harry drew +his sword half way from the scabbard, held it thus for a minute, and +drove it back again with an expressive gesture of anger and scorn; at +which Macomo shrank back, and the crowd laughed. His Excellency +afterwards saw Macomo, whom he bitterly upbraided for his treachery, and +derided for his folly. As he uttered his reproaches, he ordered him to +kneel prostrate before him, which he did, unwillingly enough. "This," +said Sir Harry Smith, placing his foot on the neck of the conquered +savage, "this is to teach you that I have come hither to teach +Kaffirland that I am chief and master here, and this is the way I shall +treat the enemies of the Queen of England." + +On the 17th, as we watched the rockets ascending, and the lights +flashing from one end of Graham's Town to the other, I could not help +comparing the circumstances of last year with the present. Then all was +gloom, save when the fires on the hill-tops telegraphed mischief between +the Kaffirs. Now, beacons blazed, the silent heralds of glad tidings; +the very Fingo kraals adjacent to the town sent forth shouts, and +torches flitted from hut to hut. Amongst all this stir, there is +something interesting in recording where Sir Harry Smith was, and how he +was employed, during the rejoicings of the excited populace. Long +before the lights were extinguished, he was up and at work. Three +o'clock on the morning of the 16th found him at his desk, which he +scarcely left till five in the evening. Amid all the din of these +rejoicings for the hero of Aliwal, Colonel Somerset, having conquered +the I'Slambies, and delivered Pato into his Excellency's hands, quietly +rode into town, unnoticed, but not forgotten by those who, eighteen +months before, looked to him for protection and assistance. [See +Appendix I.] + +On his Excellency's arrival at Government House, he sent for Sandilla, +whom he addressed in severe terms. Sandilla, of course, admitted, in +the old style, that he had been in error. On Sir Harry asking him who +was now the "Inkosi Enkulu," (Great Chief) of Kaffirland, he, after a +pause, in true Kaffir style, and closely observed by his councillors, +replied "Kreli." At this Sir Harry broke forth, in terms of great +anger. "No!" said the Governor, "I am your paramount chief--I am come +to punish you for your misdoings--your treachery--and your obstinate +folly. You may approach my foot and kiss it, in token of submission, +but not until I see a sincere repentance for the past, will I permit you +to touch my hand." + +Sandilla was released from confinement by Sir Harry's order. +Chieftainship, in a Kaffir sense, being abolished, and the ex-chiefs +being invested with a sort of magisterial influence over their people, +checked by British rule, a baton of office was sent to to be placed in +the ground before his hut, side by side with the wand always planted +there as a symbol of authority. His wand is surmounted by a cow's tail, +and marks the chief's residence from the other huts of Kraal. The baton +given by Sir Harry is a stick, with a brass knob at the top of it. A +proclamation, dated the 17th of December, 1847, announced the Keiskama +as the boundary of the Colony. The advantages of such a line of +demarcation, I have before alluded to. + +At noon, on the 20th, his Excellency was in the saddle, _en route_ for +King William's Town, _via_ Fort Hare and Post Victoria. He was +accompanied by the heads of departments in general, and by his staff. +At Fort Hare, the party was entertained at dinner by the officers of the +45th Regiment, and next day, proceeding to King William's Town, +breakfasted on the road in the Tyumie valley. At King William's Town, +Sir Harry had appointed a meeting of the Chiefs of Kaffirland, desiring +them to obey him, or abide the consequences. They knew him too well to +hesitate. + +In the mean time, Pato, hearing that Colonel Somerset was again on the +track in search of him, grew frightened; and, as this officer was _en +route_ with his force, the rebel savage sent his councillors, with an +offer of five thousand head of cattle, and a promise of surrender, if +his life might be spared. + +It was on Sunday, the 19th of December, while Sir Harry Smith was yet in +Graham's Town, that the work of Colonel Somerset was, so to speak, +brought to a close by the surrender of Pato. + +While moving with his forces towards the Kei, and debating where he +should "off-saddle" and bivouac, for a short refreshment, Colonel +Somerset observed two Kaffirs riding at a rapid gallop towards him. +These were two of Pato's councillors, who looked tired and frightened +beyond description, but they rode direct for Colonel Somerset; and, as +soon as one of them could get breath, he spoke. He had been sent by his +chief, he said, to make terms of surrender. "The tribe was broken up. +Pato was hunted down, and could hold out no longer." Colonel Somerset +asked what guarantee he should have that Pato would keep his word: a +word which had been broken so often? "I am Pato's mouth," said the +messenger; "I speak his word, and _now_ it is true. I have been told to +ride and find Somerset, or _die_." + +Colonel Somerset refused to give any promise until Pato came forward +personally, and surrendered at discretion. With this answer, the +councillors departed. Old Cobus Congo, Pato's brother, next made his +appearance, and Colonel Somerset's peremptory command to have the arms +given up was followed by the approach of Kaffirs in all directions, +hurrying down the hills, and emerging from the apparently uninhabited +kloofs, with guns and assegais. The eminences, which had appeared +untenanted by man, were now dotted with these wretched creatures; the +silent krantzes gave up the warriors long concealed therein; and, two +days afterwards, Pato, with twelve councillors, all haggard, dirty, and +trembling with terror, approached the bivouac, and, in a state of the +most abject misery, the treacherous savage surrendered himself. He had +been "hunted from rock to rock," he said, "for three months: he was no +longer a man, but a baboon, for he had been dwelling among the monkeys; +he had concealed himself where no cavalry could come, but the dreaded +name of Somerset had stirred him from his hiding-place, and he now +implored to be taken out of the bush." He spoke of the miseries to +which he and his people had been subjected; at times, they had not been +able to kill an ox for food, and some of his followers had been +compelled to eat their shields. (This was no more than our allies, the +Fingoes, were frequently obliged to do.) + +All his professions were in a tone of the deepest humility. In short, +he had been hunted like a dog, as he deserved, and he was ready to +submit to anything to be allowed to have the mountains near the +Amapondas, and to "sit still," at least, for a season. + +Colonel Somerset was, of course, perfectly aware of the motives which +directed this pacific movement on the part of Pato, who was quite ready +to submit to any terms for the present. Cattle were demanded. Pato +promised _five thousand head down_. More arms were asked for; the ease +with which many guns and assegais had already been produced, was +sufficient guarantee for the future. Colonel Somerset, however, held no +responsible position as a diplomatist; during the whole war he had only +been the fighting-man in Kaffirland. So, having beaten Sandilla, Pato, +Umhala, Souto, Stock, etc, etc, and their tribes, he was to submit the +rebel and his propositions to Sir Harry Smith, and his Excellency was to +meet the Chiefs at King William's Town, and hold a parley there on the +23rd of December, preparatory to the great meeting on the 7th January, +1848. This last assembly was fixed on that day as the anniversary of a +solemn convocation of the kind, held on the 7th January, 1836. + +The present Governor has, as Umhala would say, "ears that hear," and +"eyes that see," and will not abuse or neglect the confidence reposed in +him by the colonists. His Excellency's decisive replies to the Chiefs +when he met them at King William's Town, and the clearness with which he +impressed on their minds that they held their present position only by +right of active allegiance on their parts towards the British +Government, were the best guarantees of the manner in which he would +carry _out_ the plans as yet only in abeyance. "I am the Inkosi Enkulu +(the Great Chief) of Kaffirland," said he. "From me, as the +representative of the Queen of England, you hold your lands. My word +shall be your law, and whoso shall disobey it, him will I sweep from the +land!" + +Now, one great secret of Sir Harry Smith's rule is, that the _Kafirs +know he will execute what he threatens_. They are sure he will _keep +his word_. As Pato knew Colonel Somerset would never rest till he found +him and hunted him and his people down, so Gaikas and I'Slambies, +Tambookies and Zooluhs, feel that Sir Harry Smith, too, will be "up and +doing" among them, if they fail in their promises. + +When Sir Benjamin D'Urban resigned the Government, in 1836, he took up +his residence near Cape Town, and there, for ten long years, he +sorrowfully abided the result of the system which had been introduced by +his opponents. His friends thought that he ought to proceed to England, +and there expose the mischiefs that were gathering round the Colony; but +he "bided his time," and it was not until the events of the war had +proved the soundness of his former arguments, and that he had truly +described the Kaffirs as "irreclaimable savages," that he repaired to +the Colonial Office in London. His statements had now their due weight, +and the offices of Governor and Commander-in-Chief were again united in +the person of Sir Harry Smith, whose opportune arrival in England from +India was hailed with joy by the very party that had, in 1836, discarded +the opinions and overthrown the policy of Sir Benjamin D'Urban and Sir +Harry himself. His appointment to the Government of the Cape soon +followed his triumphant reception at home as the hero of our Indian +successes. + + + +PART TWO, CHAPTER TWENTY. + +CONCLUSION. + +Enthusiastic as his English welcome had been on his return from India, +his Excellency's _entree_ into Graham's Town, escorted by at least five +hundred friends, independently of all military attendance, must have +been deeply gratifying to him. How much more so must have been his +sensations on the morning of the 23rd of December, 1647, when he +galloped into the centre of the square formed by the garrison drawn up +to receive him, "at the old place of meeting"--King William's Town! The +band of the Rifle Brigade received him with the National Anthem, and the +cheers of the multitude formed a noble chorus; but, as the General rode +down the line, the troops, presenting arms, the air changed to "See the +Conquering Hero comes!" Shouts rose from the concourse, consisting of +the military, the colonists, Kaffirs, Fingoes, and others of many +different grades and denominations. + +When these had subsided, Sir Harry Smith addressed the troops. His +Excellency complimented Colonel Buller, of the Rifle Brigade, on the +command of such a body of men, calling the attention of the latter to +their advantage in having such a Commander; and having noticed "that +bravery and endurance which they had displayed during the long and +harassing warfare through which they had struggled," he beckoned Colonel +Somerset to his side, and thus addressed him:-- + +"To you, Colonel Somerset, we are mainly indebted for the satisfactory +close of this severe contest. You have been in the field throughout, +and have exhibited equal courage, patience, perseverance, and ability in +the discharge of the severe duties which have devolved upon you. To an +officer so nearly of my own rank, it is not for _me_ to return my +thanks. But I thank you in the name of Her Majesty the Queen, for your +efficient services in this command; I thank you in the name of the +eminently illustrious and immortal Duke of Wellington, the +Commander-in-Chief of the British Army, for the manner in which you have +prosecuted this war until you have brought it to a final issue." + +The scene at King William's Town, at this period, was very imposing: the +Kaffirs, in number at least two thousand, all unarmed, formed a +semicircle of perhaps eight deep; in front of this semicircle stood the +Chiefs, facing the General, Colonels Somerset, Buller, and Mackinnon, +and Mr Shepstone, the Interpreter. In the rear of the latter were the +troops, consisting of the Rifle Brigade, part of the 7th Dragoon Guards, +and 73rd Regiment. His Excellency scanned the assembly before him with +a searching look; and, as his eye rested on the line of Chiefs, he +missed Sutu, and her son Sandilla, in a moment. Punctual himself, he +was naturally angry at their absence, and demanded where they were? + +Mother and son had retired from the great crowd to a little drift in a +hollow. They were sent for, and obeyed the summons. The dense +semicircular mass opened in the centre, and the lame Chief and Sutu +entered the area. Some Kaffirs were disposed for a moment to press +inward; but a low murmur went round, and those in front seated +themselves the moment the young Gaika and his mother took their places +at the head of the line of Chiefs. There was then a silence among the +multitude, and the Governor addressed them, every word he uttered being +carefully translated by Mr Shepstone. + +Previously to his Excellency's address, two large staves were brought +forward, one was surmounted by a brass knob, the other was a Serjeant's +halbert. These Sir Harry Smith planted on each side of him as symbols +of peace and war. + +He opened his speech with bitter reproaches against the Kaffirs for +their treachery and violence, upbraiding them for their faithlessness +while he scorned them for their folly. + +He told them the Queen of England had sent him to Africa to put a stop +to their violence, and to organise the country over which they had so +ruthlessly stalked as destroyers. Pointing to the staves, he called on +them to advance, and to take their choice of peace or war. It mattered +not to him, they might fight, but he _would_ conquer them: he _would_ be +Chief. They had seen already how the troops of England could harass +them; the grasp and vengeance of England could never be eluded. "You, +Sutu," said his Excellency, "I call upon you to come forward, and make +your choice, by touching one staff or the other." + +Sutu advanced, and, placing her hand on the staff of peace, her example +was followed by all the rest in succession. As Stock approached, his +Excellency exclaimed, "Stock, son of Eno! is not your sleep disturbed by +evil spirits, as a punishment for the contempt with which you treated +your father's last words?--And for you, Pato, Colonel Somerset has taken +you out of the bush this time: you may thank him for your life; had I +been there, you should have lost your head." [Note 1.] + +Pato's appearance was miserable. He more resembled a Hottentot than a +Kaffir, being of the Gona tribe, which is a mixture of both races. An +old handkerchief was wound round his head, and his shrunken limbs were +enveloped in a dirty blanket. Several times during Sir Harry Smith's +address, those peculiar murmurs of wonder, approbation, and assent, +which I have elsewhere compared to the waves of a great ocean, rising +and falling in the distance, went through the mighty circle. As the +Governor took care to remind them occasionally that Chieftainship, in +their sense of the term, was abolished, and declared, from that moment, +_he_ was the Great _Inkosi Enkulu_, and the representative of the Queen +of England, an irrepressible groan burst forth from the Kaffirs; but +none attempted to reply; all seemed paralysed by fear. Not even an +assegai was to be seen in their hands--a most unusual circumstance among +these savage tribes. + +At the close of his stern address to the assembled Kaffirs, his +Excellency read the Proclamation defining the conditions on which +British Kaffraria is to be occupied for the future. Colonel Mackinnon +was appointed to the command of the district. While reading this, he +paused at several passages, giving the Chiefs an opportunity of +ascertaining the exact meaning of what they heard; as he uttered the +word "conquered," in reference to the territory, his manner and tone +were such as could not be misunderstood. + +The Chiefs, declaring it was "good," were ordered to advance separately, +and to touch the staff of Peace or War, as pleased them best. There was +no hesitation in deciding: the voice of Young Kaffirland had been +silenced, and the Chiefs stepped forward one by one, kissing Sir Harry +Smith's foot as he sat on horseback, in token of their repentance for +the past, and as a guarantee for future submission. + +Not one of them approached the new Inkosi Enkulu, without eliciting some +severe remarks. Threats were not spared, accompanied by significant +gestures. "He would teach them," he said, "who should henceforth be +their masters; and, if they failed to obey _his Word_, he would sweep +the disobedient from the land." In short, he gave them to understand, +in plain English, that they were a set of unworthy miscreants, who had +forfeited all claim to indulgence; but who, upon a promise of future +good behaviour, were to be mercifully tried once more, _but not to be +trusted_. No! Sir Harry Smith knew them too well for that! + +Words like these, from his lips, carried with them more weight than all +the written documents the Colonial Office could send forth. As the +Chiefs retired to their position, his Excellency, having possessed +himself of a piece of paper for the purpose, held it up to the multitude +as emblematic of the former Treaties; and, tearing it to pieces, +scattered it to the winds, exclaiming with his accustomed energy, "There +go the Treaties!" He next seized the staff of war, and, poising it for +a few moments, cast it to the ground with great vehemence. "Behold," +said he, "the end of war! And now, three cheers for Peace!" Lifting +his hat, he bade those beside him follow his example. The loud hurrahs +ascended to the sky, sending their echoes along the banks of the Buffalo +River. All united in the acclamations which the occasion called forth. +From soldiers, spectators, and Kaffirs arose one simultaneous shout, and +from kloof to kloof, from plain to plain, resounded the cheers which +proclaimed "Peace on earth, and good will towards men!" two days before +the great festival of Christmas. + +On the evening of the 23rd, some of the chiefs being offered coffee in +an officer's tent, old Botman was heard making sundry remarks on the +occurrences of the day. On being asked what he thought of the +Governor's address, he replied, "The day was stormy--the wind blew very +strong." But there was no gaining from him his real opinion as to past +circumstances, or future arrangements. + +It is the custom of the Kaffirs to assemble after any great gathering, +whether of peace or war, a wedding or a witchcraft scene. Those who +have not been present are always desirous of hearing "the news." When +Sir Harry Smith was in Kaffirland in 1836 he had occasion to summon the +Chiefs to a meeting, when he reproached them severely for sundry +aggressions. On their dismissal, they repaired to the Kraal, where +several members of each tribe awaited their return with the eager +question, "What news?" "There was a storm," said one, "Much thunder!" +"But," asked another, "was it followed by refreshing rain?" "Oh! yes, +when the thunder ceased there fell some cooling and pleasant showers;" +alluding to food and gifts. + +One secret of Sir Harry Smith's success is, that he does not suffer the +Kaffirs to parley with him. He looks upon them now as unworthy to be +listened to, and they feel this; they make no attempt to reply. As for +reasoning with them, it were but lost time; they are the cleverest +logicians in the world, and have always an answer more suitable to their +own purpose than we could possibly anticipate. + +Umhala was once told he could not be permitted to marry a Christian +Kaffir girl, as he had eleven wives already. After repeated messages +and munificent offers of cattle, etc, on his part he pressed his suit by +saying, "his wives knew not the white man's God; he desired to have a +Christian wife, that she might teach him!" He did not succeed, however, +with the lady. "We know," said a Kaffir to a missionary, "that what you +tell us is for our good. We feel it must be so, because you bid us be +kind to one another, and to be neither thieves nor liars. You bid our +children be dutiful, our wives obedient, our neighbours peaceful; but +when you tell us to abide with our old wives, and take no more young +ones, then the teacher's words are no longer good, and our ears are deaf +to them." + +A Kaffir prisoner, having been six months in the Graham's Town gaol, was +tried at the assizes in April, 1847, and acquitted of the crime of which +he had been accused. Before leaving the box, he was observed speaking +to one of the officers of the court. "What is he saying?" asked the +Judge. "He wishes to know," replied the functionary, "why he has been +so long in prison, and afterwards brought here, as he has committed no +crime." + +The Keiskama River was proclaimed the immediate boundary of the Colony; +and between this and the Kei lies what "shall be called and known as +British Kaffiraria," to be held by the Kaffirs "under such rules and +regulations as Her Majesty's High Commissioner, or other Representative, +who shall be the Great Chief of the whole of the said territory, shall +deem best calculated to promote the civilisation, conversion to +Christianity, and general enlightenment of the benighted beings subject +to her rule." + +In order "to define and fix a certain line of boundary, that no dispute +or disaffection might hereafter arise among the people on a question of +right or occupation," the lands appropriated to the different chiefs of +their tribes received English names. The "Great Place" of Sandilla is +now called York; the country allotted to the Amabala people, under +Stock, Lincolnshire. The location of the Amagunuquebes, under Palo, son +of Gasella, is named Bedfordshire; and Umhala's district, with the +I'Slambies, Cambridgeshire; another portion of the I'Slambies, under +Tois, are settled "within the limits of the county of Sussex." Tois's +own place is to be called Goodwood. The Tambookies, under Umtikaka +[Note 2.] and Mapassa, are to be located to the north of Yorkshire and +Sussex; and the various villages which are to be established within the +limits of British Kaffiraria have yet to be defined. + +The substitution of English names for the ancient and poetic +denominations by which the Kaffirs have hitherto distinguished their +abodes, is a necessary measure; but who can reconcile himself, at this +juncture, to London at the mouth of the Buffalo River, on the borders of +Kaffirland; York some forty miles distant, lying among the Amatola +Mountains; Cambridge near Fort Waterloo, (late Waterloo Bay,) and so +forth? + +The 7th of January brought together another assemblage, from all parts +of the frontier, at King William's Town. The absence of Lady Smith, who +had been present on that spot in 1836, was regretted by all who +remembered her. Old Sutu presented herself at Fort Cox, when _en route_ +for the Buffalo, and begged some intelligence of "her mother." His +Excellency's movements had been too rapid and fatiguing to permit of a +lady's accompanying him, and Lady Smith remained at Cape Town during the +absence of her gallant husband. + +At half-past nine in the morning the Rifle Brigade were under arms, +awaiting the arrival of His Excellency. The Kaffirs lingered about the +camp, talking in groups, and finally dropping into the semicircle, in +front of which, as before, the Chiefs and great men stood. There were +about two thousand assembled by the time Sir Harry rode up, and Pato, +having desired the tribes to greet the Governor as a great Chief, the +usual cheers arose from the throng as, dressed in the uniform of the +Rifle Brigade, and wearing the star of the Order of the Bath, the hero +of Aliwal made his entrance, surrounded by his staff. + +The opening of the Governor's address was well suited to the occasion, +and to the character of his auditors. "My children, God, you see, +blesses this occasion: your gardens were dry, and burnt up, and He, last +night, sent you a copious rain." + +A prayer was read, in the Kaffir language, by the Reverend Mr Dugmore, +a missionary, and, at the conclusion of this, Sir Harry Smith continued +his address to the multitude. + +Nothing could be clearer than Sir Harry Smith's explanation of affairs +to the wretched people now at his feet. He pointed out the line of +demarcation between the colony and "British Kaffraria," and again +between that and the Amapondas, reminding them that henceforth there +would be no more treaties; the Kaffirs were British subjects, holding +the lands forfeited by their late aggressions only on condition of good +behaviour. That at the great meeting, eleven years ago, he had advised +them to be industrious and honest. "I left you," said he, "learning to +be English. Look upon yourselves now, and then see the miserable +wretches war has made you! Where are the large herds of cattle of which +I left you in possession? _Fools_!" and Sir Harry advancing within a +pace or two of the Kaffirs, struck the ground vehemently with the staff +of peace... "The great Queen of England has sent me back to you to show +you that she has not thrown you away, if you still desire to be her +children. _Did I ever tell you a lie_?" ... "Hear! I am your Inkosi +Enkulu--no Kreli, no Sandilla, no Macomo... But I shall keep every +chief at the head of his own tribe, and I will make English and good men +of you. Now, you great chiefs, come forward, and touch my staff of +office; the staff of war I have thrown away." + +The following oath of obedience was then administered, the Kaffirs +holding the staff of peace with one hand, while two fingers of the other +were lifted up, according to the custom of these people. + +"Know you _this_, our own Inkosi Enkulu, representative of our great +Queen of England, that I (here each chief repeated his name) will be +faithful and true unto you, or whomsoever Her Majesty pleases to place +over us, and faith to you bear for the lands which I hope to hold of +you--and that I will lawfully do to you the customs and services which I +ought to do in the terms assigned, viz..." The terms pointed out to +them by his Excellency were then agreed to. These were, to obey the +laws established by him; to abolish and "disbelieve" (?) in witchcraft; +to protect their people, and encourage them to honesty; to hold the +lands conditionally; to acknowledge no Chief but the representative of +the Queen of England; to cease from buying wives; to listen to the +missionaries, and send the children of the tribes to their schools; and, +on the anniversary of the 7th of January, to bring each a fat ox to King +William's Town, in testimony of acknowledgment of the footing on which +the land was held. + +This ceremony over, Sandilla offered his "great thanks," professing, in +the usual strain, to be "under the Governor's feet," and abjuring all +idea of chieftainship in his own person, except as it was reflected in +him by the "White Inkosi Enkulu." He then added, "Your children now beg +for more land, as they are very much crowded." + +His Excellency remarked that there was plenty of land towards the Kei, +but Sandilla answered "He did not know that country; he was not brought +up there." "Nor," said Sir Harry, "were you brought up in the Colony, +into which you so lately found your way." Sandilla "wished to protect +both sides of the drifts!" "The soldiers will do that," was his +Excellency's answer. Umhala spoke his thanks, which had as much meaning +in them as Sandilla's, but Pato's were very characteristic of his +nation. "I thank you as a great chief," said he; "to-day you have taken +me from among the monkeys [Note 3]; to-day I may sit in the sun--I could +live under you before--to-day I can sit outside. There is the Chief; +(Sandilla); where we churn we take our butter; speak to him, that we may +listen to his word." + +But the Governor interrupted him by striking the staff of peace +violently on the ground, exclaiming there should be no Chief but +himself, and, flinging the staff forward, made Pato, who trembled +exceedingly, pick it up, and lay it at his feet. + +"Take to the bush again," said his Excellency, "and see how I will hunt +you out!" + +Konah, Macomo's son, "thanked," and remarked that he "was a little +child, and had no place `to sit in!'" Macomo's absence at Port +Elizabeth [Note 4] prevented any decisive arrangements being made to +settle his people. + +After all the chiefs had spoken, his Excellency again addressed them on +the subject of a fair division of the land, on the advantages of +industry, of their young people becoming servants, and of agricultural +pursuits; and, deprecating the love of cattle, he declared that each +disputed bullock should be shot, and threatened to "eat up" the idle and +the vicious. He pointed out to them the Kaffir police, which had been +clothed--"These," said his Excellency, "are not to hunt the good, but to +keep rogues out of the Colony;" and, in allusion to the recent murder of +a settler named Stanley, he offered 50 pounds reward for the +apprehension of the murderers, observing they should be "hunted out." + +Colonel Mackinnon was pointed out as "The _mouth_ of the Governor," who +was to be obeyed, and listened to in the absence of his Excellency; +landmarks were promised, and arms demanded. + +"Go to Kreli [Note 5] and Boko," said Sir Harry Smith, "and tell them +they are no longer chiefs. The Queen of England has sent me to keep +peace! peace!" + +The word was taken up by the Kaffirs, and accompanied by shouts on all +sides. The Governor then bade them good bye, promising to be amongst +them again in thirty days. The National Anthem, from the magnificent +band of the Rifle Brigade, closed the ceremonies of this eventful day, +and "Peace! Peace! Peace!" were the last words echoed by the multitude +before the people separated--some to return to the Colony, and resume +their pursuits--some to wander back to the people of their tribe with +"the news." + +Among the arrangements for the protection of the Colony, a force was +organised in 1848 by placing soldiers discharged from the 7th Dragoon +Guards, 27th, 90th, and 91st Regiments, on certain grants of land in +British Kaffraria, and thus forming military villages. + +Since then it has been reported that these settlements have not answered +the purpose for which they were established; I grieve to say that from +all I can learn from good authority, the two great sources of mischief +have been idleness and cheap brandy. The plan was excellent; the men so +located were to be rationed at the public expense for the first year of +their location. Seed corn and implements of husbandry were found for +the tillage of their land; each portion consisting of twelve acres, with +the right of common; to every ten men a span or team of oxen was +allotted, and to every twenty, a waggon. While actually serving, they +were to receive 2 shillings 6 pence a day, with other allowances. Each +village to be superintended by a retired military officer, armed with +magisterial authority for settling petty disputes, and this +superintendent would also take command of the party in the event of its +being called out to protect the Colony against Kaffir depredations and +aggressions. + +By this arrangement, the land would be cultivated as well as protected, +and would that the men so comfortably provided for, would invite their +friends to join them. Ere many years have elapsed, we may find the +wealth of Africa appreciated, and her mines worked by the scientific men +and intelligent mechanics of England. The societies at home are already +alive to the value of Mr Bain's researches in geology; and the +botanist, the naturalist, the artist, in short, all who are enterprising +and persevering, must reap the reward of their exertions in this vast +field of new, important, and profitable discoveries. + +Hands alone are wanting to complete the system of industry: this once +established, would lead to a long and lasting peace; for, by industry, +the interests of the Kaffir and the white man will be united. + +The former will learn that his best policy is to work; and, although +little in this way can be expected, at first, from a predatory savage, +the old Kaffir will correct the younger one in the belief that the +Umlunghi may be beaten. As another generation rises, it will learn not +only our customs, but our wants; and, on the latter circumstance we may +rest, politically speaking, with more satisfaction than on all the +teaching young Kaffirland may receive, or on all the promises he may +make. + +Peace being fairly proclaimed from Cape Town to the Kei, Sir Harry Smith +started for Natal, accompanied by Mr Southey, Secretary to the High +Commissioner, and Major Garvock, 31st Regiment, A.D.C., and Private +Secretary. The object of his Excellency's visit was to inquire into the +causes of that discontent which has so long existed among the Boers, and +to take decisive measures for the welfare of the various classes of +inhabitants occupying the country to the eastward. Sir Harry Smith's +determination to travel by land was a most fortunate circumstance; for, +had he gone by sea, extraordinary opportunities would have been lost. +The families of many Dutch settlers were thus overtaken, while +_trekking_ from the Colony to settlements where they would be beyond +British rule. Some were on the eve of departure, and a few were +pausing, but prepared for a move. In this state of discontent, misery, +and suspense, the approach of his Excellency was hailed with an +enthusiasm very rare among these phlegmatic and taciturn people. + +At Colesberg he was met by a deputation of the inhabitants, principally +Dutch, who presented him with an address of welcome. At Bloem Fontein, +between the Riet and Modda Rivers, he was greeted by numerous Boers, all +anxious to listen to his terms, and send for their friends from various +points that they might do the same. The chief, Moshesh, whose country +lies beyond the Orange River, presented himself to the Governor at +Winberg. The chief was accompanied by his two sons, who had been +educated at Cape Town. + +Most satisfactory arrangements were made, tending to promote peace and +content among the Boers, the Griquas, and the tribes under Moshesh, +Moroko, and other chiefs. All expressed themselves satisfied with Sir +Harry Smith's "proposals," for _he pledged himself to nothing_ until he +had removed, or overcome, many difficulties incidental to his high and +responsible position. + +One incident, trifling in itself, went further towards conciliating the +Dutch than any well prepared speeches would have done. While about to +reply to the address of the Boers at Bloem Fontein, his Excellency +observed an aged man "whose whitened locks told of some eighty summers." +He immediately called him from the crowd; and, handing him his own +chair, Sir Harry expressed his regrets that the old man should have +stood so long without being observed. How few there are who consider +the advantage we gain by dealing with others according to _their_ +dispositions and tempers, rather than _our own_! + +Sad scenes of distress among the unsettled farmers excited the sympathy +of the humane Governor on his journey. Rains, in almost unparalleled +floods, having fallen at this period, the plains were inundated: the +waggons, their drivers, and the cattle, were found resting +disconsolately in the midst of a waste of waters. The old, the young, +the sick, and the impoverished, were bewailing their sad condition at +the foot of the Draakenberg Mountains, dreading their journey through +the wilderness, over which they were about to drag their weary way, when +he, who "had come because he knew they wanted a friend," rode into the +encampment of Pretorius. Some idea may be formed of the sufferings of +these people, by the fact that the forelouper of the waggon of Pretorius +having left them, a young girl of twelve years, Pretorius's daughter, +had been compelled to lead the oxen for some days; and in doing so, her +arm had been frightfully gored by the leading bullock. The fatigue of a +forelouper is great for a boy, and to a young girl must be absolutely +injurious. + +In sullen disgust at his reception in Graham's Town, or rather his +non-reception by Sir Henry Pottinger, Pretorius had resolved on +abandoning the districts under our Government, and the example of such a +man was not lost on his neighbours. From the difficulty of +communication between the immediate scene of Sir Harry Smith's +proclamations, and the disaffected Boers, no positive assurance of +better prospects had reached them, till he in person offered himself as +their friend. A spot on the banks of the Tugala River was named as a +place of conference, and a great many farmers assembled there, +requesting Pretorius to address his Excellency on the subject of their +grievances, which he did in such a way as to excite the sympathy of all +who heard him. + +The result of this conference was a Proclamation announcing "the +Sovereignty of the Queen of England over the territories north of the +Orange River, north to the Vaal River, and east to the Draakenberg, or +Quathlamba, Mountains." The Boers, to a man, declared their readiness +and anxiety to return to the farms they had forsaken; those further off +were invited by proclamation to leave "their miserable locations among +the Draakenberg Mountains;" and the arrangements respecting quit-rents, +judicial authority, grants of land, etc, were met with satisfaction by +the whole population assembled to hear and understand them. + +The Tugala stream being impassable, the Governor returned to Pretorius's +camp, and was there detained some days. On his way back, his Excellency +had to ford a passage which, from the rains, had become a deep stream. +The people provided a strong horse for him, and assisted themselves, in +getting the travelling waggon, "Government House" as they called it, +through the waters, which threatened to sweep it away. The +indefatigable Governor at last left Pretorius in the rain: and, after +crossing many drifts, forded a dangerous mountain-stream, called the +Blue Krantz River. At the Great Bushman's River, he found a party under +Captain Campbell, C.M.R., and Lieutenant Gibb, R.E., who had brought a +float from Pietermaritzburg. By these means the Mooi and the Umgeni +Rivers were passed, and his Excellency reached Natal. + +Many of the inhabitants had ridden out fifteen miles to meet their +"friend." The proclamations had satisfied every one of Sir Harry +Smith's desire to make all parties justly and permanently happy, and the +town was the scene of general rejoicing. + +After remaining a day or two at the Lieutenant-Governor's, his +Excellency left Natal for Cape Town, on the 12th of February; landed at +the Buffalo mouth, from H.M. steamer "Geyser," on the 15th, and on the +19th reached Graham's Town. On the 1st of March he made his _entree_ +into Cape Town, amid the acclamations of the people and the rejoicings +of his friends, and the day closed with illuminations throughout the +town. One of these was worthy of remark: it was a small transparency +representing the "Hero of Aliwal" leading the aged Boer to his own seat! + +One point has been gained by the miseries of the last two years--the +Colony has attracted the attention of the whole of the civilised world; +its resources have been brought into notice; and, finally, a Governor +has been appointed, whose mind is unprejudiced, whose head is clear, +whose heart is honest, and whose powers are unshackled. + +While this work has been preparing for the press, we have been startled +by the melancholy intelligence of another outburst in Kaffirland. The +cause is traced to the deposition of Sandilla from his high estate of +Paramount Chief of the Gaikas. + +In perusing the foregoing work, the reader will do me the justice to +acknowledge that although I have been sanguine in my _hopes_ of peace, I +have never for one moment swerved from my opinion of the Kaffir. From +first to last I have denounced him as incapable of honest feelings--as +an irreclaimable savage. No sooner were the Rifle Brigade removed from +the Colony, than the wild beast began to show his claws. We have +already received the grievous news of death and devastation to a painful +extent, and all we have to rest upon at present is the certainty that no +one knows better than Sir Harry Smith how to deal with these misguided +wretches, and to hope that the final result will not be detrimental to +the true interests of either the Kaffir or the emigrant. + +The following is a summary of what may be called the first chapter of +the present war in Kaffirland. + +Sir Harry Smith having summoned Sandilla to a conference, of the Gaika +tribes with the British Governor, Sandilla chose to absent himself: his +adviser and supporter in this affair was, no doubt, his brother and +chief councillor, Anta, a man already noticed in this work. Upon this +Sir Harry Smith deposed Sandilla, and nominated his mother Sutu; the +"Great Widow" of Gaika, in her son's stead. Sandilla and his friends +resented this, especially as Sir Harry had declared the chief's land +confiscated, and, in spite of all former oaths of allegiance, they +treated the Governor's messages with contempt. + +On the 24th of December, 1850, Colonel Mackinnon, at the head of six +hundred men, being detached to capture Sandilla, was led into a defile, +probably by the treachery of the Kaffir police; for although they so +preserved appearances that their conduct is described in Colonel +Mackinnon's despatch as "admirable," they subsequently deserted by +hundreds. Those remaining have, it is said, been very wisely disarmed. +[Note 6.] + +In this defile or gorge of the Keiskama, through which the men could +only pass in single file, a fire was opened on the infantry who were in +the rear, and who with difficulty and serious loss forced their way; +dislodging the enemy from the bush _en passant_. + +The casualties on this occasion were:--Assistant-Surgeon Stuart, Cape +Mounted Rifles, one corporal and nine privates of the 6th Regiment, and +one corporal of the 73rd Regiment, killed. Brigade-Major Bisset, Cape +Mounted Rifles, and Lieutenant Catty, 6th Regiment, were wounded +severely; and five privates 6th Regiment, and two privates 73rd +Regiment, also wounded. A considerable number of the enemy were killed. + +Colonel Mackinnon moved back by a different road, and on reaching the +Debe flats, a horrible sight presented itself: fourteen soldiers of the +45th Regiment lay dead upon the plain. The Kaffirs had stripped them +and cut their throats. + +This disastrous affair was a signal for a general rising of the Gaikas. +They stalked, as usual, through the land with brand and assegai, and the +poor settlers in the military villages, who were gathered together to +make merry on Christmas day, were surprised by the treacherous foe; and +many were cut to pieces on their devastated homesteads. Among these +thus murdered are Lieutenant Stacey, late of the 45th Regiment, and Mr +Phelps. So say the accounts, but they must be received with caution, +unless official. + +On the 29th of December, 1850, Colonel Somerset attempted to form a +junction with Sir Harry Smith, and for this purpose detached a party of +one hundred and fifty of the 91st Regiment under Lieut.-Colonel +Yarborough, seventy Cape Mounted Rifles under Major Somerset, and a +small 3-pounder gun Royal Artillery, but the enemy burst upon the troops +in such force that it was deemed necessary to retire; a desperate +struggle ensuing between the enemy and the troops, the latter succeeded +at length in regaining Fort Hare, but not without lamentable losses on +our side. + +In this melancholy business the casualties were:--Lieut. Melvin and +Adjutant Gordon, 91st Regiment, killed; Ensign Borthwick, 91st, wounded, +and several soldiers of the 91st and Cape Mounted Riflemen. Major +Somerset's charger was also wounded. Colonel Somerset in his despatch +expresses great satisfaction at the conduct of the troops and their +officers, especially naming Colonel Yarborough and Major Somerset. The +loss to the enemy was considerable. + +The colonists, who at first deserted their property, have since readily +come forward at the call of the Governor; the troops have enough to do +to defend the line of posts; and the next intelligence is waited for +with an interest and anxiety which none can fully understand but those +who have already experienced the horrors of a Kaffir war. + +Meanwhile reinforcements are ordered from England, and the colonists +have armed themselves to assist Sir Harry Smith. May God defend the +right! + +I have elsewhere touched on our hurried move from the Frontier of South +Africa, by which I have been prevented from satisfactorily transcribing +my notes on past occurrences. A _trek_ in a bullock-waggon, at the rate +of _two miles and a half an hour_, over rough roads, to which a +tread-mill would be smooth, and an occasional ride "through the bush," +under a vertical sun, are by no means incentives to employment of any +kind. It was a frightful and toilsome journey, especially to one whose +nerves had been shattered by the events of the last twenty-two months. +The only agreeable chapter in the journey from the Frontier, was the +voyage of forty-nine hours in H.M. steamer "Geyser," from Algoa Bay to +Cape Town; the distance being 600 miles. What a contrast to the five +days' previous _trek_ of 96 miles! Here was rest, indeed! Sailors +certainly have a way of making things pleasant to their guests, and +persuading the latter, at the same time, that it is _they_ who +contribute to the _agremens_ of the passage, whereas it must decidedly +inconvenience, in no trifling degree, the officers and crew of a +man-of-war, to convert it into a travelling barrack. + +A deep debt of good-will and thanks do the 91st owe the officers of the +"Geyser," and long, long will the right pleasant welcome they received +upon her decks be remembered by them all, and returned some day--if it +be possible! But, it will _not_ be possible! + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + +Note 1. Sir Harry Smith's precise words I believe, on good authority, +were, "As for you, Pato, you are a vagabond; and, instead of being taken +out of the bush, you deserve to be shot." + +Note 2. Soon after the meeting at King William's Town Umtikaka died. +There is some reason to believe he was poisoned. It will be remembered +that he wished to assist us against Mapassa in the early part of the +war. + +Note 3. "I am no longer a man, but a baboon," said Pato to Colonel +Somerset, when the latter took the hunted chief "out of the rocks." + +Note 4. Macomo was then in gaol there for making a disturbance in the +street, when intoxicated. + +Note 5. Kreli had sent a messenger to the meeting, excusing himself for +not attending, on the score of "being sick;" but on the 25th of January +he presented himself at King William's Town, attended by forty mounted +followers, to remonstrate on the subject of the new boundary line +between his country and the Tambookies. + +Note 6. In my original journal, when speaking of the organisation of +this body by Lieutenant Davis, late of the 90th Regiment, I remarked: +"This experiment of arming so treacherous a race seems fraught with +danger." My misgivings have been amply justified. + + + +APPENDIX. + +DEATHS OF FIVE BRITISH OFFICERS AT THE KEI. + +I copy from a Colonial newspaper (the "Graham's Town Journal") the +following account of the military honours recently paid to the remains +of the gallant sufferers:-- + +"King William's Town, 7th September 1850. + +"The inhabitants of King William's Town have been lately very sensibly +reminded of one of the most tragical and melancholy events of the late +Kaffir War, by a pleasing and gratifying exhibition of that mutual +feeling of good will and companionship, which so eminently distinguishes +the gentlemen of the military profession. It is now three years since +the occurrence of the events alluded to, but that time seems to have had +but little influence in obliterating from the soldier's mind the +remembrance of those who fell in the late strife, whether when in actual +contact with the enemy, or slain in cold blood by the merciless cruelty +of a barbarous foe. The incidents of the affair spoken of, are no doubt +still fresh in the recollection of most of the inhabitants of the +Colony, yet it may be neither uninteresting nor unedifying, shortly to +repeat them, tending as they do, in some measure, to illustrate the +native character of the Kaffir. + +"In September, 1847, a party of five officers, consisting of Captain +Baker (whose promotion to the rank of Major was received shortly after +his death), Lieutenant Faunt, Ensign Burnop, Dr Campbell, of the 73rd +Regiment, and Dr Loch, of the 7th Dragoon Guards, set out from Fort +Wellington, to determine a wager which had been made concerning the +locality of a hill which, from that place, may be observed as exhibiting +a very remarkable resemblance to Table Mountain--one party maintaining +the opinion that it was situated on the north, the other, that it was on +the south side of the River Kei. With light hearts, and jocund spirits, +they may easily be imagined to have parted from those companions they +were destined never to meet again; and also, after having reached in +safety the end of their journey, to have been returning in happy +anticipation of the merry welcome their comrades would afford them with +the intelligence they had obtained; when, in passing through a ravine by +a narrow pathway, where they could travel only in file, they were +waylaid by a vast number of Kaffirs, and literally cut to pieces. They +fell, 'tis true, as British officers under similar circumstances ever +will fall,--together; and bravely and strongly contending against +numbers sufficient to combat with a battalion; but the determination, +self-devotion, and bravery of such a defence only increases our +admiration of their characters, and redoubles in poignancy the sincerity +of regret. + +"Around the fatal spot were scattered many ghastly evidences how dearly +they had sold their lives, but on the same ground also were too +evidently portrayed the characters and dispositions of their assassins, +by the awful spectacle of horror and blood which was spread out before +the beholders. It would be vain, or at least unfit, to attempt +describing such a scene; humanity would revolt and shudder at the +detail, and it is enough (if not more than sufficient) to say, that the +detached limbs, and mutilated members of those who a few hours before +were happy, and in manly vigour, were gathered from different and +distant places, into the great coats of the infuriated and sorrowing +soldiers, who unhappily arrived too late for the relief of their +murdered officers. `Vengeance belongeth not to man,' yet the human +heart cannot know of such barbarity, without feeling at the same time +satisfied, when assured, that an awful retribution was visited upon its +perpetrators. + +"In as perfect a manner as their mangled and disfigured state would +permit, their remains were enshrouded in the soldier's last covering +when in the field, and deposited in one lonely and desolate grave, far +from the resort of their fellow men--beyond the reach of the tear of the +bereaved, and the sigh of a friend,--where no tablet would proclaim the +worth of the departed, nor bewail their untimely and melancholy end. +They were not, however, allowed to remain, in such undeserved obscurity; +the genuine feeling of comradeship, which is ever found in the heart of +a British soldier, and reaches beyond the present, sought a more +hallowed spot where their ashes might slumber--where the tear of sorrow +might fall upon their tomb; a testimony of affection, where the finger +of regret might be pointed on a recital of their hapless fate, and where +their virtues might be told to generations yet to come. + +"For this desirable and commendable purpose an escort belonging to the +6th Royal Regiment of Foot, now under the command of Brevet +Lieutenant-Colonel Stuart, accompanied by the Reverend J. Fleming, +Military Chaplain, proceeded to the spot where their remains had been +left; and having, with the utmost care, recovered from their lonely +resting-place, brought them to King William's Town, where, on the +morning of the 31st of August, 1850, they were re-interred in one +coffin, in a grave prepared within the boundaries of the church now +being erected there, being borne to their last home by twelve men of the +above regiment, and followed in solemn procession by the whole of Her +Majesty's officers in the garrison. + +"J.S.N." + +Appendix Two. + +TESTIMONIAL TO COLONEL SOMERSET. + +A very solid proof has lately been afforded of the value attached to +Colonel Somerset's services by the Colonists of South Africa. The +estate of Oatlands, formerly in the possession of Colonel Somerset, was +purchased by a number of landholders, principally farmers of Lower +Albany, whose property Colonel Somerset was so instrumental in saving +during the war of 1846-7, is presented to this gallant officer as a +residence. The act is alike honourable to Colonel Somerset and to the +subscribers. + +The correspondence on this interesting occasion was very brief, and I +therefore can have the pleasure of giving it entire. Two of the +Colonists, in the name of the rest, thus wrote to Colonel Somerset: + +"Graham's Town, 24th July, 1850. + +"Sir,--We beg to inform you that we have been appointed the Trustees of +the Oatlands property by a number of landholders, by whom it has been +purchased; and it becomes our duty to acquaint you, by desire of those +gentlemen, that, impressed with a sense of the benefits which they, in +common with the inhabitants at large, have derived from your public +services, they have purchased the Oatlands Estate, with a view of +offering the same to you as a permanent residence during such time as +you may remain in the Colony, in testimony of their respect, and of +their appreciation of your services. + +"We have, therefore, the satisfaction of offering for your acceptance a +lease of the dwelling-house and the grounds immediately adjoining it, +and shall have much pleasure in communicating to the proprietors your +acceptance of their offer. + +"We have the honour to be, Sir, + +"Your obedient humble servants, + +"Signed P.W. Lucas. + +"F. Carlisle." + +The Colonel's answer was as follows: + +"Graham's Town, 25th July, 1850. + +"Gentlemen,--I have had the honour to receive your letter of the 24th +instant, in which you inform me that you have been desired by the +gentlemen who purchased the Oatlands property, to acquaint me that, +impressed with a sense of the benefits which they, in common with the +inhabitants at large, have derived from my public services, they have +purchased the Oatlands Estate, with the view of offering it to me as a +permanent residence during such time as I may remain in the Colony. In +reply I request you will do me the favour to convey to those gentlemen +how highly I appreciate their kind intentions so handsomely expressed in +your letter; and that I accept with pleasure this handsome testimony of +their estimation of my services. I beg, gentlemen, you will receive my +sincere thanks for the kind manner in which you have done me the honour +to convey to me the sentiments and kind wishes of these gentlemen on +this occasion. + +"I have the honour to be, Gentlemen, + +"Your obedient humble servant, + +"Signed H. Somerset. + +"To P.W. Lucas and F. Carlisle, Esqrs." + +THE END. + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's The Cape and the Kaffirs, by Harriet Ward + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CAPE AND THE KAFFIRS *** + +***** This file should be named 35308.txt or 35308.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/5/3/0/35308/ + +Produced by Nick Hodson of London, England + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. 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