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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The South-West, by Joseph Holt Ingraham
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The South-West
+       By a Yankee. In Two Volumes. Volume 1
+
+Author: Joseph Holt Ingraham
+
+Release Date: January 31, 2011 [EBook #35133]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SOUTH-WEST ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Curtis Weyant, Barbara Kosker and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ THE
+
+ SOUTH-WEST.
+
+
+
+
+ BY A YANKEE.
+
+
+
+
+                Where on my way I went;
+ ------------A pilgrim from the North--
+ Now more and more attracted, as I drew
+ Nearer and nearer.
+
+ ROGERS' ITALY.
+
+
+
+
+ IN TWO VOLUMES.
+
+ VOL. I.
+
+
+
+
+ NEW-YORK:
+ HARPER & BROTHERS, CLIFF-ST.
+ 1835.
+
+
+
+
+[Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1835,
+by HARPER & BROTHERS, in the Clerk's Office of the Southern
+District of New-York.]
+
+
+
+
+ TO THE
+
+ HON. JOHN A. QUITMAN,
+
+ EX-CHANCELLOR OF MISSISSIPPI,
+
+ THESE VOLUMES
+
+ ARE
+
+ RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED
+
+ BY
+
+ THE AUTHOR.
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+
+The succeeding pages grew out of a private correspondence, which the
+author, at the solicitation of his friends, has been led to throw into
+the present form, modifying in a great measure the epistolary vein, and
+excluding, so far as possible, such portions of the original papers as
+were of too personal a nature to be intruded upon the majesty of the
+public;--while he has embodied, so far as was compatible with the new
+arrangement, every thing likely to interest the general reader.
+
+The author has not written exclusively as a traveller or journalist. His
+aim has been to present the result of his experience and observations
+during a residence of several years in the South-West. This extensive
+and important section of the United States is but little known. Perhaps
+there is no region between the Mississippi river and the Atlantic
+shores, of which so little accurate information is before the public; a
+flying tourist only, having occasionally added a note to his diary, as
+he skirted its forest-lined borders.
+
+New-York, Sept. 1835.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+ I.
+
+ A state of bliss--Cabin passenger--Honey-hunting--Sea-life--Its
+ effects--Green horns--Reading--Tempicide--Monotony--Wish for
+ excitement--Superlative misery--Log--Combustible materials--Cook
+ and bucket--Contrary winds--All ready, good Sirs--Impatient
+ passengers--Signal for sailing--Leave-takings--Sheet home--Under
+ weigh.                                                           Page 13
+
+
+ II.
+
+ A tar's headway on land--A gentleman's at sea--An agreeable trio
+ --Musical sounds--Helmsman--Supper Steward--A truism--Helmsman's
+ cry--Effect--Cases for bipeds--Lullaby--Sleep.                        20
+
+
+ III.
+
+ Shakspeare--Suicide or a 'foul' deed--A conscientious table--
+ Fishing smacks--A pretty boy--Old Skipper, Skipper junior, and
+ little Skipper--A young Caliban--An alliterate Man--Fisherman--
+ Nurseries--Navy--The Way to train up a Child--Gulf Stream--
+ Humboldt--Crossing the Gulf--Ice ships--Yellow fields--Flying
+ fish--A game at bowls--Bermuda--A post of observation--Men,
+ dwellings, and women of Bermuda--St. George--English society--
+ Washing decks--Mornings at sea--Evenings at sea--A Moonlight
+ scene--The ocean on fire--Its phosphorescence--Hypotheses             25
+
+
+ IV.
+
+ Land--Abaco--Fleet--Hole in the Wall--A wrecker's hut--Bahama
+ vampyres--Light houses--Conspiracy--Wall of Abaco--Natural
+ Bridge--Cause--Night scene--Speak a packet ship--A floating
+ city--Wrecker's lugger--Signal of distress--A Yankee lumber
+ brig--Portuguese Man of War.                                          42
+
+
+ V.
+
+ A calm--A breeze on the water--The land of flowers--Juan Ponce de
+ Leon--The fountain of perpetual youth--An irremediable loss to
+ single gentlemen--Gulf Stream--New-Providence--Cuba--Pan of
+ Matanzas--Blue hills of Cuba--An armed cruiser--Cape St. Antonio
+ --Pirates--Enter the Mexican Gulf--Mobile--A southern winter--A
+ farewell to the North and a welcome to the South--The close of the
+ voyage--Balize--Fleet--West Indiaman--Portuguese polacre--Land ho!
+ --The land--Its formation--Pilot or "little brief authority"--
+ Light house--Revenue cutter--Newspapers--"The meeting of the
+ waters"--A singular appearance--A morning off the Balize--The
+ tow-boat                                                              55
+
+
+ VI.
+
+ The Mississippi--The Whale--Description of tow-boats--A package--A
+ threatened storm--A beautiful brigantine--Physiognomy of ships--
+ Richly furnished cabin--An obliging Captain--Desert the ship--
+ Getting under weigh--A chain of captives--Towing--New-Orleans--A
+ mystery to be unraveled.                                              64
+
+
+ VII.
+
+ Louisiana--Arrival at New-Orleans--Land--Pilot stations--Pilots
+ --Anecdote--Fort--Forests--Levee--Crevasses--Alarms--Accident--
+ Espionage--A Louisianian palace--Grounds--Sugar-house--Quarters
+ --An African governess--Sugar-Cane--St. Mary--"English Turn"--
+ Cavalcade--Battle-ground--Music Sounds of the distant city--Land
+ in New-Orleans--An _amateur_ sailor.                                  73
+
+
+ VIII.
+
+ Bachelor's comforts--A valuable valet--Disembarked at the Levee
+ --A fair Castilian--Canaille--The Crescent city--Reminiscence of
+ school days--French cabarets--Cathedral--Exchange--Cornhill--A
+ chain of light--A fracas--Gens d'Armes--An affair of honour--
+ Arrive at our hotel                                                   87
+
+
+ IX.
+
+ Sensations on seeing a city for the first time--Capt. Kidd--
+ Boston--Fresh feelings--An appreciated luxury--A human medley
+ --School for physiognomists--A morning scene in New-Orleans--
+ Canal street--Levee--French and English stores--Parisian and
+ Louisianian pronunciation--Scenes in the market--Shipping--A
+ disguised rover--Mississippi fleets--Ohio river arks--Slave laws.
+                                                                       96
+
+ X.
+
+ First impressions--A hero of the "Three Days"--Children's ball--
+ Life in New-Orleans--A French supper--Omnibuses--Chartres street
+ at twilight--Calaboose--Guard house--The vicinage of a theatre--
+ French cafes--Scenes in the interior of a cafe--Dominos--Tobacco
+ smokers--New-Orleans society.                                        108
+
+
+ XI.
+
+ Interior of a ball room--Creole ladies--Infantile dancers--French
+ children--American children--A singular division--New-Orleans
+ ladies--Northern and southern beauty--An agreeable custom--Leave
+ the assembly room--An olio of languages--The Exchange--Confusion
+ of tongues--Temples of Fortune.                                      117
+
+
+ XII.
+
+ The Goddess of fortune--Billiard rooms--A professor--Hells--A
+ respectable banking company--"Black-legs"--Faro described--
+ Dealers--Bank--A novel mode of franking--Roulette table--A supper
+ in Orcus--Pockets to let--Dimly lighted streets--Some things not
+ so bad as they are represented.                                      127
+
+
+ XIII.
+
+ A sleepy porter--Cry of fire--Noise in the streets--A wild scene
+ at midnight--A splendid illumination--Steamers wrapped in flames
+ --A river on fire--Firemen--A lively scene--Floating cotton--
+ Boatmen--An ancient Portuguese Charon--A boat race--Pugilists--A
+ hero                                                                 137
+
+
+ XIV.
+
+ Canal-street--Octagonal church--Government house--Future
+ prospects of New-Orleans--Roman chapel--Mass for the dead--
+ Interior of the chapel--Mourners--Funeral--Cemeteries--Neglect
+ of the dead--English and American grave yards--Regard of
+ European nations for their dead--Roman Catholic cemetery in
+ New-Orleans--Funeral procession--Tombs--Burying in water--
+ Protestant grave-yard.                                               145
+
+
+ XV.
+
+ An old friend--Variety in the styles of building--Love for
+ flowers--The basin--Congo square--The African bon-ton of
+ New-Orleans--City canals--Effects of the cholera--Barracks--
+ Guard-houses--The ancient convent of the Ursulines--The school
+ for boys--A venerable edifice--Principal--Recitations--Mode of
+ instruction--Primary department--Infantry tactics--Education in
+ general in New-Orleans.                                              158
+
+
+ XVI.
+
+ Rail-road--A new avenue to commerce--Advantages of the rail-way
+ --Ride to the lake--The forest--Village at the lake--Pier--
+ Fishers--Swimmers--Mail-boat--Cafes--Return--An unfortunate cow
+ --New-Orleans streets.                                               171
+
+
+ XVII.
+
+ The legislature--Senators and representatives--Tenney--Gurley
+ --Ripley--Good feeling among members--Translated speeches--
+ Ludicrous situations--Slave law--Bishop's hotel--Tower--View
+ from its summit--Bachelor establishments--Peculiar state of
+ society.                                                             178
+
+
+ XVIII.
+
+ Saddle horses and accoutrements--Banks--Granite--Church-members
+ --French mode of dressing--Quadroons--Gay scene and groups in the
+ streets--Sabbath evening--Duelling ground--An extensive cotton
+ press--A literary germ--A mysterious institution--Scenery in the
+ suburbs--Convent--Catholic education.                                186
+
+
+ XIX.
+
+ Battle-ground--Scenery on the road--A peaceful scene--American
+ and British quarters--View of the field of battle--Breastworks
+ --Oaks--Packenham--A Tennessee rifleman--Anecdote--A gallant
+ British officer--Grape-shot--Young traders--A relic--Leave the
+ ground--A last view of it from the Levee.                            196
+
+
+ XX.
+
+ Scene in a bar room--Affaires d'honneur--A Sabbath morning--Host
+ --Public square--Military parades--Scenes in the interior of a
+ cathedral--Mass--A sanctified family--Crucifix--Different ways of
+ doing the same thing--Altar--Paintings--The Virgin--Females
+ devotees.                                                            207
+
+
+ XXI.
+
+ Sabbath in New-Orleans--Theatre--Interior--A New-Orleans audience
+ --Performance--Checks--Theatre d'Orleans--Interior--Boxes--
+ Audience--Play--Actors and actresses--Institutions--M. Poydras--
+ Liberality of the Orleanese--Extracts from Flint upon New-Orleans.   219
+
+
+ XXII.
+
+ A drive into the country--Pleasant road--Charming villa--Children
+ at play--Governess--Diversities of society--Education in
+ Louisiana--Visit to a sugar-house--Description of sugar-making,
+ &c.--A plantation scene--A planter's grounds--Children--Trumpeter
+ --Pointer--Return to the city.                                       229
+
+
+ XXIII.
+
+ Leave New-Orleans--The Mississippi--Scenery--Evening on the water
+ --Scenes on the deck of a steamer--Passengers--Plantations--
+ Farm-houses--Catholic college--Convent of the Sacred Heart--Caged
+ birds--Donaldsonville--The first highland--Baton Rouge--Its
+ appearance--Barracks--Scenery--Squatters--Fort Adams--Way
+ passengers--Steamer.                                                 245
+
+
+
+
+THE SOUTH WEST.
+
+
+
+
+I.
+
+      A state of bliss--Cabin passenger--Honey-hunting--Sea-life
+      --Its effects--Green horns--Reading--Tempicide--Monotony--
+      Wish for excitement--Superlative misery--Log--Combustible
+      materials--Cook and bucket--Contrary winds--All ready, good
+      Sirs--Impatient passengers--Signal for sailing--Under weigh.
+
+
+To be a "Cabin passenger" fifteen or twenty days _out_, in a Yankee
+merchantman, is to be in a state as nearly resembling that of a
+half-assoilzied soul in purgatory, as flesh and blood can well be placed
+in. A meridian sun--a cloudless sky--a sea of glass, like a vast burning
+reflector, giving back a twin-heaven inverted--a dry, hot air, as though
+exhaled from a Babylonian furnace, and a deck, with each plank heated to
+the foot like a plate of hot steel--with the "Horse latitudes," for the
+scene, might, perhaps, heighten the resemblance.
+
+Zimmerman, in his excellent essay upon Solitude, has described man, in a
+"state of solitary indolence and inactivity, as sinking by degrees, like
+stagnant water, into impurity and corruption." Had he intended to
+describe from experience, the state of man as "Cabin passenger" after
+the novelty of his new situation upon the heaving bosom of the "dark
+blue sea," had given place to the tiresome monotony of never-varying,
+daily repeated scenes, he could not have illustrated it by a more
+striking figure. This is a state of which you are happily ignorant.
+Herein, ignorance is the height of bliss, although, should a Yankee
+propensity for peregrinating stimulate you to become wiser by
+experience, I will not say that your folly will be more apparent than
+your wisdom. But if you continue to vegetate in the lovely valley of
+your nativity, one of "New-England's yeomanry," as you are wont, not a
+little proudly, to term yourself--burying for that distinctive honour
+your collegiate laurels beneath the broad-brim of the farmer--exchanging
+your "gown" for his frock--"Esq." for plain "squire," and the Mantuan's
+Georgics for those of the Maine Farmer's Almanac--I will cheerfully
+travel for you; though, as I shall have the benefit of the wear and
+tear, rubs and bruises--it will be like honey-hunting in our school-boy
+days, when one fought the bees while the other secured the sweet
+plunder.
+
+This sea life, to one who is not a sailor, is a sad enough existence--if
+it may be termed such. The tomb-stone inscription "Hic jacet," becomes
+prematurely his own, with the consolatory adjunct _et non resurgam_. A
+condition intermediate between life and death, but more assimilated to
+the latter than the former, it is passed, almost invariably, in that
+proverbial inactivity, mental and corporeal, which is the well-known
+and unavoidable consequence of a long passage. It is a state in which
+existence is burthensome and almost insupportable, destroying that
+healthy tone of mind and body, so necessary to the preservation of the
+economy of the frame of man.--Nothing will so injure a good disposition,
+as a long voyage. Seeds of impatience and of indolence are there sown,
+which will be for a long period painfully manifest. The sweetest
+tempered woman I ever knew, after a passage of sixty days, was converted
+into a querulous Xantippe; and a gentleman of the most active habits,
+after a voyage of much longer duration, acquired such indolent ones,
+that his usefulness as a man of business was for a long time destroyed;
+and it was only by the strongest application of high, moral energy,
+emanating from a mind of no common order, that he was at length enabled
+wholly to be himself again. There is but one antidote for this disease,
+which should be nosologically classed as _Melancholia Oceana_, and that
+is employment. But on ship-board, this remedy, like many other good ones
+on shore, cannot always be found. A meddling, bustling passenger, whose
+sphere on land has been one of action, and who pants to move in his
+little circumscribed orbit at sea, is always a "lubberly green horn," or
+"clumsy marine," in every tar's way--in whose eye the "passenger" is
+only fit to thin hen-coops, bask in the sun, talk to the helmsman, or,
+now and then, desperately venture up through the "lubber's hole" to look
+for _land_ a hundred leagues in mid ocean, or, cry "sail ho!" as the
+snowy mane of a distant wave, or the silvery crest of a miniature cloud
+upon the horizon, flashes for an instant upon his unpractised vision.
+
+A well-selected library, which is a great luxury at sea, and like most
+luxuries very rare, does wonders toward lessening this evil; but it is
+still far from constituting a _panacea_. I know not how it is, unless
+the patient begins in reality to suspect that he is taking _reading_ as
+a prescription against the foe, and converting his volumes into pill
+boxes--which by and by gets to be too painfully the truth--but the
+appetite soon becomes sated, the mind wearied, and the most fascinating
+and favourite authors "pall upon the sense" with a tiresome familiarity.
+Reading becomes hateful, for the very reason that it has become
+necessary. Amusements are exhausted, invented, changed, varied, and
+again exhausted. Every thing upon which the attention fixes itself,
+vainly wooing something novel, soon becomes insipid. Chess, back-gammon,
+letter-writing, journalizing, smoking, eating, drinking, and sleeping,
+may at first contribute not a little to the discomfiture of old Time,
+who walks the _sea_ shod with leaden sandals. The last three enumerated
+items, however, generally hold out to the last undisabled. But three
+Wellingtons could not have won Waterloo unsupported; nor, able and
+doughty as are these bold three--much as they prolong the
+combat--manfully as they fight, can they hold good their ground for
+ever; the obstinate, scythe-armed warrior, with his twenty-four body
+guards following him like his shadow, will still maintain the broadest
+portion of his diurnal territory, over which, manoeuvre as they may,
+these discomfited worthies cannot extend their front.
+
+Few situations are less enviable, than that of the worn voyager, as day
+after day "drags its slow length along," presenting to his restless,
+listless eyes, as he stretches them wearily over the leaden waste around
+him--the same unbroken horizon, forming the periphery of a circle, of
+which his vessel seems to be the immovable and everlasting centre--the
+same blue, unmeaning skies above--the same blue sea beneath and
+around--the same gigantic tracery of ropes and spars, whose fortuitous
+combinations of strange geometrical figures he has demonstrated, till
+they are as familiar as the diagrams on a turtle's back to an alderman;
+and the same dull white sails, with whose patches he has become as
+familiar as with the excrescences and other innocent defects upon the
+visages of his fellow-sufferers.
+
+On leaving port, I commenced a journal, or rather, as I am in a nautical
+atmosphere, a "log," the choicest chips of which shall be hewn off,
+basketed in fools-cap, and duly transmitted to you. Like other chips
+they may be useful to kindle the fire withal. "What may not warm the
+feelings may--the toes," is a truism of which you need not be reminded:
+and if you test it practically, it will not be the first time good has
+been elicited from evil. But the sameness of a sea-life will by no means
+afford me many combustible incidents. Somebody has said "the will is
+equal to the deed, if the deed cannot be." Now I have the will to pile a
+hecatomb, but if I can pile only a couple of straws, it will be, of
+course, the same thing in the abstract. Mine, perchance, may be the fate
+of that poor journalist who, in a voyage across the Atlantic, could
+obtain but one wretched item wherewith to fill his journal--which he
+should have published, by the way. What a rare sort of a book it would
+have been! So soon read too! In this age when type-blotted books are
+generative, it would immortalize the author. Tenderly handed down from
+one generation to another, it would survive the "fall of empires, and
+the crash of worlds." "At three and a quarter P. M., ship going
+two and a half knots per hour, the cook lost his bucket
+over-board--jolly boat lowered, and Jack and Peter rowed after it."
+
+"Half-past three, P. M.--Cook has got his bucket again--and a
+broken head into the bargain."
+
+To one who has never "played with Ocean's mane," nor, borne by his
+white-winged coursers, scoured his pathless fields, there may be, even
+in the common-place descriptions of sea-scenes, something, which wears
+the charm of novelty. If my hasty sketches can contribute to your
+entertainment "o' winter nights," or, to the gratification of your
+curiosity, they will possess an influence which I do not promise or
+predict for them.
+
+Unfavourable winds had detained our ship several days, and all who had
+taken passage were on the "tiptoe of expectation" for the signal for
+sailing. Trunks, boxes, chests, cases, carpet-bags, and all the
+paraphernalia of travelling equipage, had long been packed, locked, and
+shipped--and our eyes had hourly watched the fickle gyrations of a
+horizontal gilt figure, which surmounted the spire of a neighbouring
+church, till they ached again. Had the image been Eolus himself, it
+could not have commanded more devoted worshippers.
+
+A week elapsed--and patience, which hitherto had been admirably
+sustained, began to flag; murmurings proceeded from the lips of more
+than one of the impatient passengers, as by twos and threes, they would
+meet by a kind of sympathetic affinity at the corners of the streets,
+where an unobstructed view could be obtained of some church-vane, all of
+which, throughout our city of churches, had taken a most unaccommodating
+fancy to kick their golden-shod heels at the Northern Bear.
+
+At precisely twenty minutes before three of the clock, on the afternoon
+of the first of November instant, the phlegmatic personage in the gilt
+robe, very obligingly, after he had worn our patience to shreds by his
+obstinacy, let his head and heels exchange places. At the same moment,
+ere he had ceased vibrating and settled himself steadily in his new
+position, the welcome signal was made, and in less than half an hour
+afterward, we were all, with bag and baggage, on board the ship, which
+rode at her anchor two hundred fathoms from the shore.
+
+The top-sails, already loosed, were bellying and wildly collapsing with
+a loud noise, in the wind; but bounding to their posts at the command
+of their superior officer, the active seamen soon extended them upon the
+spars--immense fields of swelling canvass; and our vessel gracefully
+moved from her moorings, and glided through the water with the lightness
+of a swan.
+
+As we moved rapidly down the noble harbour, which, half a century since,
+bore upon its bosom the hostile fleet of the proud island of the north,
+the swelling ocean was sending in its evening tribute to the continent,
+in vast scrolls, which rolled silently, but irresistibly onward, and
+majestically unfolded upon the beach--or, with a hoarse roar, resounded
+along the cliffs, and surged among the rocky throats of the promontory,
+impressing the mind with emotions of sublimity and awe.
+
+
+
+
+ II.
+
+      A tar's headway on land--A gentleman's at sea--An agreeable
+      trio--Musical sounds--Helmsman--Supper--Steward--A truism--
+      Helmsman's cry--Effect--Cases for bipeds--Lullaby--Sleep.
+
+
+The motion was just sufficiently lively to inspirit one--making the
+blood frolic through the veins, and the heart beat more proudly. The old
+tars, as they cruised about the decks, walked as steadily as on land.
+This proves nothing, you may say, if you have witnessed Jack's
+pendulating, uncertain--"right and left oblique" advance on a shore
+cruise.
+
+Our tyros of the sea, in their venturesome projections of their persons
+from one given point in their eye to another, in the hope of
+accomplishing a straight line, after vacillating most appallingly, would
+finally succeed "haud passibus aequis" in reaching the position aimed
+for, fortunate if a lee-lurch did not accommodate them with a dry bed in
+the "lee scuppers."
+
+Of all laughter-exciting locomotives which most create sensations of the
+ludicrously serious, commend me to an old land-crab teaching its young
+one to "go _ahead_"--a drunkard, reeling homeward through a broad street
+on a Saturday night--and a "gentleman passenger" three days at sea in
+his strange evolutions over the deck.
+
+Stretched before me upon the weather hen-coop, enveloped in his cloak,
+lay one of our "goodlie companie." If his sensations were such as I
+imagined them to be, he must have felt that the simplest chicken under
+him wore the stoutest heart.
+
+On the lee hen-coop reposed another passenger in sympathy with his
+fellow, to whose feelings I felt a disposition to do equal justice.
+Abaft the wheel, coiled up in the rigging, an agreeable substitute for a
+bed of down, lay half obscured within the shadow of the lofty stern,
+another overdone toper--a victim of Neptune, not of the "jolly god"--but
+whose sensations have been experienced by many of the latter's pupils,
+who have never tasted other salt water than their own tears.
+
+It has been said or sung by some one, that the "ear is the road to the
+heart." That it was so to the stomach, I already began to feel, could
+not be disputed; and as certain "guttural sounds" began to multiply from
+various quarters, with startling emphasis, lest I should be induced to
+sympathize with the fallen novitiates around me, by some _overt_ act, I
+hastily glided by the helmsman, who stood alone like the sole survivor
+of a battle-field--his weather-beaten visage illuminated at the moment
+with a strange glare from the "binnacle-lamp" which, concealed within a
+case like a single-windowed pigeon house, and open in front of him,
+burned nightly at his feet. The next moment I was in the cabin, now
+lighted up by a single lamp suspended from the centre of the ceiling,
+casting rather shade than light upon a small table--studiously arranged
+for supper by the steward--that non-descript _locum tenens_ for
+valet--waiter--chambermaid--shoe-black--cook's-mate, and swearing-post
+for irascible captains to vent stray oaths upon, when the wind is
+ahead--with a flying commission for here, there, and nowhere! when most
+wanted.
+
+But the supper! ay, the supper. Those for whom the inviting display was
+made, were, I am sorry to say it, most unhesitatingly "floored" and
+quite _hors du combat_. What a deal of melancholy truth there is in that
+aphorism, which teaches us that the "brave must yield to the braver!"
+
+As I stood beside the helmsman, I could feel the gallant vessel
+springing away from under me, quivering through every oaken nerve, like
+a high-mettled racer with his goal but a bound before him. As she
+encountered some more formidable wave, there would be a tremendous
+outlay of animal-like energy, a momentary struggle, a half recoil, a
+plunging, trembling--_onward_ rush--then a triumphant riding over the
+conquered foe, scattering the gems from its shivered crest in glittering
+showers over her bows. Then gliding with velocity over the glassy
+concave beyond, swaying to its up-lifting impulse with a graceful
+inclination of her lofty masts, and almost sweeping the sea with her
+yards, she would majestically recover herself in time to gather power
+for a fresh victory.
+
+Within an hour after clearing the last head-land, whose lights, level
+with the plain of the sea, gleamed afar off, twinkling and lessened like
+stars, with which they were almost undistinguishably mingled on the
+horizon--we had exchanged the abrupt, irregular "seas" of the bay, for
+the regular, majestically rolling billows of the ocean.
+
+I had been for some time pacing the deck, with the "officer of the
+watch" to recover my sea-legs, when the helmsman suddenly shouted in a
+wild startling cry, heard, mingling with the wind high above the booming
+of the sea, the passing hour of the night watch.--"Four bells."--"Four
+bells," repeated the only one awake on the forecastle, and the next
+moment the ship's bell rung out loud and clear--wildly swelling upon the
+gale, then mournfully dying away in the distance as the toll ceased,
+like the far-off strains of unearthly music--
+
+    "----Died the solemn knell
+           As a trumpet music dies,
+         By the night wind borne away
+           Through the wild and stormy skies."
+
+There is something so awful in the loud voice of a man mingling with the
+deep tones of a bell, heard at night upon the sea, that familiar as my
+ear was with the sounds--the blood chilled at my heart as this "lonely
+watchman's cry" broke suddenly upon the night.
+
+When he again told the hour I was safely stowed away in a comfortable
+berth, not so large as that of Goliah of Gath by some cubits, yet
+admirably adapted to the sea, which serves most discourteously the
+children of Somnus, unless they fit their berths like a modern M. D. his
+sulkey, lulled to sleep by the rattling of cordage, the measured tread
+of the watch directly over me, the moanings, _et caetera_, of sleepless
+neighbours, the roaring of the sea, the howling of the wind, and the
+gurgling and surging of the water, as the ship rushed through it,
+shaking the waves from her sides, as the lion scatters the dew from his
+mane, and the musical rippling of the eddies--like a glassichord,
+rapidly run over by light fingers--curling and singing under the keel.
+
+
+
+
+III.
+
+      Shakspeare--Suicide or a 'fowl' deed--A conscientious fable
+      --Fishing smacks--A pretty boy--Old Skipper, Skipper junior,
+      and little Skipper--A young Caliban--An alliterate Man--
+      Fishermen--Nurseries--Navy--The Way to train up a Child--
+      Gulf Stream--Humboldt--Crossing the Gulf--Ice-ships--Yellow
+      fields--Flying fish--A game at bowls--Bermuda--A post of
+      observation--Men, dwellings, and women of Bermuda--St.
+      George--English society--Washing decks--Mornings at sea--
+      Evenings at sea--A Moonlight scene--The ocean on fire--Its
+      phosphorescence--Hypotheses.
+
+
+"Let's whip these stragglers o'er the seas again," was the gentle
+oratory of the aspiring Richard, in allusion to the invading
+Bretagnes.--
+
+ "Lash hence these overweening rags of France."
+
+The interpreter of the heart's natural language--Shakspeare, above all
+men, was endowed with human inspiration. His words come ripe to our lips
+like the fruit of our own thoughts. We speak them naturally and
+unconsciously. They drop from us like the unpremeditated language of
+children--spring forth unbidden--the richest melody of the mind. Strong
+passion, whether of grief or joy while seeking in the wild excitement of
+the moment her own words for utterance, unconsciously enunciates _his_,
+with a natural and irresistible energy. There is scarcely a human
+thought, great or simple, which Shakspeare has not spoken for his
+fellow-men, as never man, uninspired, spake; which he has not embodied
+and clothed with a drapery of language, unsurpassable. So--
+
+  "Let's whip _this_ straggler o'er the seas again,"
+
+I have very good reason to fear, will flow all unconsciously from your
+lips, as most applicable to my barren letter; in penning which I shall
+be driven to extremity for any thing of an interesting character. If it
+must be so, I am, of all epistlers, the most innocent.
+
+Ship, air, and ocean equally refuse to furnish me with a solitary
+incident. My wretched "log" now and then records an event: such as for
+instance, how one of "the Doctor's" plumpest and most deliriously
+_embonpoint_ pullets, very rashly and unadvisedly perpetrated a
+summerset over-board, after she had been decapitated by that sable
+gentleman, in certainly the most approved and scientific style. None but
+a very silly chicken could have been dissatisfied with the
+unexceptionable manner in which the operation was performed. But, both
+feathered and plucked bipeds, it seems, it is equally hard to please.
+
+For the last fourteen days we have been foot-balls for the winds and
+waves. Their game may last as many more; therefore, as we have as little
+free agency in our movements as foot-balls themselves, we have made up
+our minds to yield our fretted bodies as philosophically as may be, to
+their farther pastime. The sick have recovered, and bask the hours away
+on deck in the beams of the warm south sun, like so many luxurious
+crocodiles.
+
+To their good appetites let our table bear witness. Should it be blessed
+with a conscience, it is doubly blessed by having it cleared thrice
+daily by the most rapacious father-confessors that ever shrived
+penitent; of which "gentlemen of the _cloth_" it boasts no less than
+eight.
+
+The first day we passed through a widely dispersed fleet of those short,
+stump-masted _non-descripts_, with swallow-tailed sterns, snubbed bows,
+and black hulls, sometimes denominated fishing smacks, but oftener and
+more euphoniously, "Chebacco boats," which, from May to October, are
+scattered over our northern seas.
+
+While we dashed by them, one after another, in our lofty vessel, as,
+close-hauled on the wind, or "wing and wing," they flew over the foaming
+sea, I could not help smiling at the ludicrous scenes which some of
+their decks exhibited.
+
+One of them ran so close to us, that we could have tossed a potato into
+the "skipper's" dinner-pot, which was boiling on a rude hearth of bricks
+placed upon the open deck, under the _surveillance_ of, I think, the
+veriest mop-headed, snub-nosed bit of an urchin that I ever saw.
+
+"Keep away a little, or you'll run that fellow down," suddenly shouted
+the captain to the helmsman; and the next moment the little fishing
+vessel shot swiftly under our stern, just barely clearing the spanker
+boom, whirling and bouncing about in the wild swirl of the ship's wake
+like a "Massallah boat" in the surf of Madras.
+
+There were on board of her four persons, including the steersman--a
+tall, gaunt old man, whose uncovered gray locks streamed in the wind as
+he stooped to his little rudder to luff up across our wake. The lower
+extremities of a loose pair of tar-coated duck trowsers, which he wore,
+were incased, including the best part of his legs, in a pair of
+fisherman's boots, made of leather which would flatten a rifle ball. His
+red flannel shirt left his hairy breast exposed to the icy winds, and a
+huge pea-jacket, thrown, Spanish fashion, over his shoulders, was
+fastened at the throat by a single button. His tarpaulin--a little
+narrow-brimmed hat of the pot-lid tribe, secured by a ropeyarn--had
+probably been thrown off in the moment of danger, and now hung swinging
+by a lanyard from the lower button-hole of his jacket.
+
+As his little vessel struggled like a drowning man in the yawning
+concave made by the ship, he stood with one hand firmly grasping his
+low, crooked rudder, and with the other held the main sheet, which alone
+he tended. A short pipe protruded from his mouth, at which he puffed
+away incessantly; one eye was tightly closed, and the other was so
+contracted within a network of wrinkles, that I could just discern the
+twinkle of a gray pupil, as he cocked it up at our quarter-deck, and
+took in with it the noble size, bearing, and apparel of our fine ship.
+
+A duplicate of the old helmsman, though less battered by storms and
+time, wearing upon his chalky locks a red, woollen, conical cap, was
+"easing off" the foresheet as the little boat passed; and a third was
+stretching his neck up the companion ladder, to stare at the "big ship,"
+while the little carroty-headed imp, who was just the old skipper
+_razeed_, was performing the culinary operations of his little kitchen
+under cover of the heavens.
+
+Our long pale faces tickled the young fellow's fancy extremely.
+
+"Dad," squalled the youthful reprobate, in the softest, hinge-squeaking
+soprano--"Dad, I guess as how them ar' chaps up thar, ha'nt lived on
+salt grub long."--The rascal--we could have minced him with his own fish
+and potatoes.
+
+"Hold your yaup, you youngster you," roared the old man in reply.--The
+rest of the beautiful alliteration was lost in the distance, as his
+smack bounded from us, carrying the young _sans-culotte_ out of reach of
+the consequences of his temerity. To mention _salt grub_ to men of our
+stomachs' capacity, at that moment! He merited impaling upon one of his
+own cod-hooks. In ten minutes after, we could just discern the glimmer
+of the little vessel's white sails on the verge of the distant horizon,
+in whose hazy hue the whole fleet soon disappeared.
+
+These vessels were on a tardy return from their Newfoundland harvests,
+which, amid fogs and squalls, are gathered with great toil and privation
+between the months of May and October. The fishermen constitute a
+distinct and peculiar class--not of society, but of men. To you I need
+not describe them. They are to be seen at any time, and in great
+numbers, about the wharves of New-England sea-ports in the winter
+season--weather-browned, long-haired, coarsely garbed men, with honesty
+and good nature stamped upon their furrowed and strongly marked
+features. They are neither "seamen" nor "countrymen," in the usual
+signification of these words, but a compound of both; combining the
+careless, free-and-easy air of the one, with the awkwardness and
+simplicity of the other. Free from the grosser vices which characterize
+the foreign-voyaged _sailor_, they seldom possess, however, that
+religious tone of feeling which distinguishes the ruder _countryman_.
+
+Marblehead and Cape Cod are the parent nurseries of these hardy men.
+Portland has, however, begun to foster them, thereby adding a new and
+vigorous sinew to her commercial strength. In conjunction with the whale
+fisheries, to which the cod are a sort of introductory school, these
+fisheries are the principal nurseries of American seamen. I have met
+with many American ships' crews, one-half or two-thirds of which were
+composed of men who had served their apprenticeship in the "fisheries."
+The youth and men whom they send forth are the bone and muscle of our
+navy. They have an instinctive love for salt water. Every one who is a
+parent, takes his sons, one after another, as they doff their
+petticoats, if the freedom of their limbs was ever restrained by such
+unnecessary appendages, and places them on the deck of his fishing
+smack; teaches them to call the ropes by their names, bait, fling, and
+patiently watch the deceptive hook, and dart the harpoon, or plunge the
+grains--just as the Indian is accustomed to lead his warrior-boys forth
+to the hunting grounds, and teach them to track the light-footed game,
+or heavier-heeled foe--wing, with unerring aim, the fatal arrow, or
+launch the deadly spear.
+
+The three succeeding days we were delayed by calms, or contending with
+gales and head winds. On the morning of the seventh day "out," there was
+a general exclamation of surprise from the passengers as they came on
+deck.
+
+"How warm!" "What a suffocating air!" "We must have sailed well last
+night to be so far south!" They might well have been surprised if this
+change in the temperature had been gained by regular "southing." But,
+alas, we had barely lessened our latitude twenty miles during the night.
+We had entered the Gulf Stream! that extraordinary natural phenomenon of
+the Atlantic Ocean. This immense circle of tepid water which revolves in
+the Atlantic, enclosing within its periphery, the West India and Western
+Islands, is supposed by Humboldt to be occasioned "by the current of
+rotation (trade winds) which strikes against the coasts of Veraguas and
+Honduras, and ascending toward the Gulf of Mexico, between Cape Caloche
+and Cape St. Antoine, issues between the Bahamas and Florida." From this
+point of projection, where it is but a few miles wide, it spreads away
+to the northeast in the shape of an elongated slightly curved fan,
+passing at the distance of about eighty miles from the coast of the
+southern states, with a velocity, opposite Havana, of about four miles
+an hour, which decreases in proportion to its distance from this point.
+Opposite Nantucket, where it takes a broad, sweeping curve toward
+Newfoundland, it moves generally only about two miles an hour. Bending
+from Newfoundland through the Western Islands, it loses much of its
+velocity at this distance from its radiating point, and in the eastern
+Atlantic its motion is scarcely perceptible, except by a slight ripple
+upon the surface.
+
+This body of water is easily distinguishable from that of the
+surrounding blue ocean by its leaden hue--the vast quantity of
+pale-yellow gulf-weed, immense fields of which it wafts from clime to
+clime upon its ever-rolling bosom, and by the absence of that
+phosphorescence, which is peculiar to the waters of the ocean. The water
+of this singular stream is many degrees warmer than the sea through
+which it flows. Near Cuba the heat has been ascertained to be as great
+as 81 deg., and in its course northward from Cuba, it loses 2 deg. of
+temperature for every 3 deg. of latitude. Its warmth is easily accounted for
+as the production of very simple causes. It receives its original
+impulse in the warm tropical seas, which, pressed toward the South
+American shore by the wind, meet with resistance and are deflected along
+the coast northward, as stated above by Humboldt, and injected into the
+Northern Atlantic Ocean--the vast column of water having parted with
+very little of its original caloric in its rapid progress.
+
+We crossed the north-western verge of "The Gulf" near the latitude of
+Baltimore, where its breadth is about eighty miles. The atmosphere was
+sensibly warmer here than that of the ocean proper, and the water which
+we drew up in the ship's bucket raised the mercury a little more than
+8 deg.. Not knowing how the mercury stood before entering the Gulf, I could
+not determine accurately the change in the atmosphere; but it must have
+been very nearly as great as that in the denser fluid. Veins of cool air
+circled through its atmosphere every few minutes, as welcome and
+refreshing to our bared foreheads as the sprinkling of the coolest
+water.
+
+When vessels in their winter voyages along our frigid coasts become
+coated with ice, so as to resemble almost precisely, though of a
+gigantic size, those miniature glass ships so often seen preserved in
+transparent cases, they seek the genial warmth of this region to "thaw
+out," as this dissolving process is termed by the sailors. We were
+nearly three days in crossing the Gulf, at a very acute angle with its
+current, which period of time we passed very pleasantly, for voyagers;
+as we had no cold weather to complain of, and a variety of objects to
+entertain us. Sea, or Gulf-weed, constantly passed us in acres,
+resembling immense meadows of harvest wheat, waving and undulating with
+the breeze, tempting us to walk upon it. But for the ceaseless roll and
+pitching of our ship, reminding us of our where-about, we might, without
+much trouble, have been cheated into the conviction that it was real
+_terra firma_.
+
+Flocks of flying fish suddenly breaking from a smooth, swelling billow,
+to escape the jaws of some voracious pursuer, whose dorsal fin would be
+seen protruding for an instant afterward from the surface, flitted
+swiftly, with a skimming motion, over the sea, glittering in the sun
+like a flight of silver-winged birds; and then as suddenly, with dried
+wings, dropped into the sea again. One morning we found the decks
+sprinkled with these finned aerial adventurers, which had flown on board
+during the night.
+
+Spars, covered with barnacles--an empty barrel marked on the head N. E.
+Rum, which we slightly altered our course _to speak_--a hotly contested
+_affaire d'honneur_, between two bantam-cocks in the weather-coop--a few
+lessons in splicing and braiding sennet, taken from a good-natured old
+sailor--a few more in the art of manufacturing "Turks' Heads," not,
+however, _a la Grec_--and other matters and things equally important,
+also afforded subjects of speculation and chit-chat, and means of
+passing away the time with a tolerable degree of comfort, and, during
+the intervals of eating and sleeping, to keep us from the blues.
+
+A gallant ship--a limitless sea rolled out like a vast sheet of mottled
+silver--"goodlie companie"--a warm, reviving sun--a flowing sheet, and a
+courteous breeze, so gently breathing upon our sails, that surly Boreas,
+in a gentler than his wonted mood, must have sent a bevy of Zephyrs to
+waft us along--are combinations which both nautical amateurs and
+ignoramuses know duly how to appreciate.
+
+From the frequency of "squalls" and "blows" off Hatteras, it were easy
+to imagine a telegraphic communication existing between that head-land
+and Bermuda, carried on by flashes of lightning and tornadoes; or a game
+at bowls between Neptune and Boreas, stationed one on either spot, and
+hurling thunderbolts over the sea. This region, and that included
+between 25 deg. and 23 deg. north latitude termed by sailors the "horse
+latitudes," are two of the most unpleasant localities a voyager has to
+encounter on his passage from a New-England sea-port to New-Orleans or
+Havana. In one he is wearied by frequent calms, in the other, exposed to
+sea sickness, and terrified by almost continual storms.
+
+On the eighth day out, we passed Bermuda--that island-sentinel and spy
+of Britain upon our shores. The position of this post with regard to
+America, forcibly reminds me--I speak it with all due reverence for the
+"Lion" of England--of a lap-dog sitting at a secure distance and keeping
+guard over an eagle _volant_. How like proud England thus to come and
+set herself down before America, and like a still beautiful mother,
+watch with a jealous eye the unfolding loveliness of her rival
+daughter--build up a battery d'espionage against her shores, and seek to
+hold the very key of her seas.
+
+The Bermudas or "Summer islands" so called from Sir George Summer, who
+was wrecked here two centuries since--are a cluster of small coral reefs
+lying nearly in the form of a crescent, and walled round and defended
+from the sea by craggy rocks, which rear their fronts on every side like
+battlements:--They are situated about two hundred and twenty leagues
+from the coast of South Carolina, and nearly in the latitude of the city
+of Charleston.
+
+The houses are constructed of porous limestone, not unlike lava in
+appearance. This material was probably ejected by some unseen and
+unhistoried volcanic eruption, by which the islands themselves were in
+all probability heaved up from the depths of the ocean. White-washed to
+resist the rain, their houses contrast beautifully with the
+green-mantled cedars and emerald carpets of the islands. The native
+Bermudians follow the sea for a livelihood. They make good sailors while
+at sea; but are dissipated and indolent when they return to their native
+islands, indulging in drinking, gaming, and every species of
+extravagance.
+
+The females are rather pretty than otherwise; with good features and
+uncommonly fine eyes. Like all their sex, they are addicted to dress, in
+which they display more finery than taste. Dancing is the pastime of
+which they are most passionately fond. In affection and obedience to
+their "lords," and in tenderness to their children, it is said that they
+are patterns to all fair ones who may have taken those, seldom
+_audibly-spoken_, vows, "to love, honour, and obey"--oft times
+unuttered, I verily believe, from pure intention.
+
+St. George, the principal town in the islands, has become a fashionable
+military residence. The society, which is English and extremely
+agreeable, is varied by the constant arrival and departure of ships of
+war, whose officers, with those of the army, a sprinkling of
+distinguished civilians, and clusters of fair beings who have winged it
+over the sea, compose the most spirited and pleasant society in the
+world. Enjoying a remarkably pure air, and climate similar to that of
+South Carolina, with handsomely revenued clergymen of the Church of
+England, and rich in various tropical luxuries, it is a desirable
+foreign residence and a convenient and pleasant haven for British
+vessels sailing in these seas.
+
+This morning we were all in a state of feverish excitement, impatient to
+place our eyes once more upon land. Visions of green fields and swelling
+hills, pleasantly waving trees and cool fountains--groves, meadows, and
+rural cottages, had floated through our waking thoughts and mingled with
+our dreams.
+
+"Is the land in sight, Captain?" was the only question heard from the
+lips of one and another of the expectant passengers as they rubbed their
+sleepy eyes, poked their heads from their half-opened state-room doors,
+or peeped from their curtained berths. Ascending to the deck, we beheld
+the sun just rising from the sea in the splendor of his oriental pomp,
+flinging his beams far along the sky and over the waters, enriching the
+ocean with his radiance till it resembled a sea of molten gold, gilding
+the dew-hung spars, and spreading a delicate blush of crimson over the
+white sails. It was a morning of unrivalled beauty. But thanks to
+nautical housewifery, its richness could not be enjoyed from the decks.
+
+At sea, the moment the sun rises, and when one feels in the humor of
+quitting his hot state-room and going on deck, the officer of the watch
+sings out in a voice that goes directly to the heart--"Forard
+there--wash decks!" Then commences an elemental war rivalling Noah's
+deluge. _That_ was caused by the pouring down of rain in drops--_thie_
+by the out-pouring of full buckets. From the moment this flood commences
+one may draw back into his narrow shell, like an affrighted snail, and
+take a morning's nap:--the deck, for an hour to come, is no place for
+animals that are not web-footed.
+
+Fore and aft the unhappy passenger finds no way of escaping the
+infliction of this purifying ceremony. Should he be driven aloft, there
+"to banquet on the morning," he were better reposing on a gridiron or
+sitting astride a handsaw. If below, there the steward has possession,
+sweeping, laying the breakfast table and making-up berths, and the air,
+a hundred times breathed over, rushes from the opening state-rooms
+threatening to suffocate him--he were better engulfed in the bosom of a
+stew-pan.
+
+To stand, cold, wet, and uncomfortable upon the damp decks till the sun
+has dried both them and him is the only alternative. If after all the
+"holy stone" should come in play, he may then quietly jump over-board.
+
+The evenings, however, amply compensate for the loss of the fine
+mornings. The air, free from the dust, floating particles and
+exhalations of the land, is perfectly transparent, and the sky of a
+richer blue. The stars seem nearer to you there; and the round moon
+pours her unclouded flood of light, down upon the sea, with an opulence
+and mellowness, of which those who have only seen moonlight, sleeping
+upon green hills, cities and forests, know nothing. On such nights,
+there cannot be a nobler, or prouder spectacle, as one stands upon the
+bows, than the lofty, shining pyramid of snow-white canvass which,
+rising majestically from the deck, lessens away, sail after sail, far
+into the sky--each sheet distended like a drum-head, yet finely rounded,
+and its towering summit, as the ship rises and falls upon the billows,
+waving like a tall poplar, swaying in the wind. In these hours of
+moonlit enchantment, while reclining at full length upon the deck, and
+gazing at the diminished point of the flag-staff, tracing devious
+labyrinths among the stars, the blood has danced quicker through my
+veins as I could feel the ship springing away beneath me like a fleet
+courser, and leaping from wave to wave over the sea. At such moments the
+mind cannot divest itself of the idea that the bounding ship is instinct
+with life--an animated creature, careering forward by its own volition.
+To this are united the musical sighing of the winds through the sails
+and rigging--the dashing of the sea and the sound of the rushing vessel
+through the water, which sparkles with phosphorescent light, as though
+sprinkled with silver dust.
+
+A dark night also affords a scene to gratify curiosity and charm the
+eye. A few nights since, an exclamation of surprise from one of the
+passengers called me from my writing to the deck. As, on emerging from
+the cabin, I mechanically cast my eyes over the sea, I observed that at
+first it had the appearance of reflecting the stars from its bosom in
+the most dazzling splendour, but on looking upward to gaze upon the
+original founts of this apparently reflected light, my eyes met only a
+gloomy vault of clouds unillumined by a solitary star. The "scud" flew
+wildly over its face and the heavens were growing black with a gathering
+tempest. Yet beneath, the sea glittered like a "lake of fire." The
+crests of the vast billows as they burst high in the air, descended in
+showers of scintillations. The ship scattered broken light from her
+bows, as though a pavement of mirrors had been shivered in her pathway.
+Her track was marked by a long luminous train, not unlike the tail of a
+comet, while gleams of light like lighted lamps floating upon the water,
+whirled and flashed here and there in the wild eddies of her wake. The
+spray which was flung over the bows glittered like a sprinkling of
+diamonds as it fell upon the decks, where, as it flowed around the feet,
+it sparkled for some seconds with innumerable shining specks. And so
+intense was the light shining from the sea that I was enabled to read
+with ease the fine print of a newspaper. A bucket plunged into the sea,
+which whitened like shivered ice, on its striking it, was drawn up full
+of glittering sea-water that sparkled for more than a minute, after
+being poured over the deck, and then gradually losing its lustre,
+finally disappeared in total darkness.
+
+Many hypotheses have been suggested by scientific men to account for
+this natural phenomenon. "Some have regarded it," says Dr. Coates, "as
+the effect of electricity, produced by the friction of the waves; others
+as the product of a species of fermentation in the water, occurring
+accidentally in certain places. Many have attributed it to the
+well-known phosphorescence of putrid fish, or to the decomposition of
+their slime and exuviae, and a few only to the real cause, the voluntary
+illumination of many distinct species of marine animals.
+
+"The purpose for which this phosphorescence is designed is lost in
+conjecture; but when we recollect that fish are attracted to the net by
+the lights of the fisherman, and that many of the marine shellfish are
+said to leave their native element to crawl around a fire built upon the
+beach, are we not warranted in supposing that the animals of which we
+have been speaking, are provided with these luminous properties, in
+order to entice their prey within their grasp?"
+
+
+
+
+IV.
+
+      Land--Abaco--Fleet--Hole in the Wall--A wrecker's hut--
+      Bahama vampyres--Light houses--Conspiracy--Wall of Abaco--
+      Natural Bridge--Cause--Night scene--Speak a packet ship--A
+      floating city--Wrecker's lugger--Signal of distress--A
+      Yankee lumber brig--Portuguese Man-of-War.
+
+
+"Land ho!" shouted a voice both loud and long, apparently from the
+clouds, just as we had comfortably laid ourselves out yesterday
+afternoon for our customary _siesta_.
+
+"Where away?" shouted the captain, springing to the deck, but not so
+fast as to prevent our tumbling over him, in the head-and-heels
+projection of our bodies up the companion-way, in our eagerness to catch
+a glimpse, once more, of the grassy earth; of something at least
+stationary.
+
+"Three points off the weather bow," replied the man aloft.
+
+"Where is it?"--"which way?" "I see it"--"Is that it captain--the little
+hump?" were the eager exclamations and inquiries of the enraptured
+passengers, who, half beside themselves, were peering, straining, and
+querying, to little purpose.
+
+It was Abaco--the land first made by vessels bound to New Orleans or
+Cuba, from the north. With the naked eye, we could scarcely distinguish
+it from the small blue clouds, which, resting, apparently, on the sea,
+floated near the verge of the southern horizon. But with the spy glass,
+we could discern it more distinctly, and less obscured by that vail of
+blue haze, which always envelopes distant objects when seen from a great
+distance at sea, or on land.
+
+As we approached, its azure vail gradually faded away, and it appeared
+to our eyes in its autumnal gray coat, with all its irregularities of
+surface and outline clearly visible.
+
+Slightly altering our course, in order to weather its southern
+extremity, we ran down nearly parallel with the shores of the island
+that rose apparently from the sea, as we neared it, stretching out upon
+the water like a huge alligator, which it resembled in shape. Sail after
+sail hove in sight as we coasted pleasantly along with a fine breeze,
+till, an hour before the sun went down, a large wide-spreading fleet
+could be discerned from the deck, lying becalmed, near the extreme
+southern point of Abaco, which, stretching out far into the sea, like a
+wall perforated with an arched gateway near the centre, is better known
+by the familiar appellation of "The Hole in the Wall."
+
+"There is a habitation of some sort," exclaimed one of the passengers,
+whose glass had long been hovering over the island.
+
+"Where--where?" was the general cry, and closer inspection from a dozen
+eyes, detected a miserable hut, half hidden among the bushes, and so
+wild and wretched in appearance, that we unanimously refused it the
+honor of
+
+  "----A local habitation and a name!"
+
+It was nevertheless the first dwelling of man we had seen for many a
+day; and notwithstanding our vote of non-acceptance, it was not devoid
+of interest in our eyes. It was evidently the abode of some one of those
+demi sea-monsters, called "Wreckers," who, more destructive than the
+waves, prey upon the ship-wrecked mariner. The Bahamas swarm with these
+wreckers who, in small lugger-sloops, continually prowl about among the
+islands,
+
+  "When the demons of the tempest rave,"
+
+like birds of ill omen, ready to seize upon the storm-tossed vessel,
+should it be driven among the rocks or shoals with which this region
+abounds. At midnight, when the lightning for a moment illumines the sky
+and ocean, the white sail of the wrecker's little bark, tossing amid the
+storm upon the foaming billows, will flash upon the eyes of the toiling
+seamen as they labour to preserve their vessel, striking their souls
+with dread and awakening their easily excited feelings of superstition.
+Like evil spirits awaiting at the bed-side the release of an unannealed
+soul, they hover around the struggling ship through the night, and,
+flitting away at the break of morning, may be discovered in the
+subsiding of the tempest, just disappearing under the horizon with a
+sailor's hearty blessing sent after them.
+
+That light-houses have not been erected on the dangerous head-lands and
+reefs which line the Bahama channel, is a strange oversight or neglect
+on the part of the governments of the United States and England, which
+of all maritime nations are most immediately concerned in the object.
+Suitable light-houses on the most dangerous points, would annually save,
+from otherwise inevitable destruction, many vessels and preserve
+hundreds of valuable lives. The profession of these marauders would be,
+in such a case, but a sinecure; provided they would allow the lights to
+remain. But, unless each tower were converted into a well-manned
+gun-battery the piratical character of these men will preclude any hope
+of their permanent establishment. Men of their buccaneering habits are
+not likely to lie quietly on their oars, and see their means of
+livelihood torn from them by the secure navigation of these waters. They
+will sound, from island to island, the tocsin for the gathering of their
+strength, and concentrate for the destruction of these enemies to their
+_honest calling_, before they have cast their cheering beams over these
+stormy seas a score of nights.
+
+As we approached the Hole in the Wall, the breeze which we had brought
+down the channel, stole in advance and set in motion the fleet of
+becalmed vessels, which rolled heavily on the long, ground-swell, about
+a league ahead of us. The spur or promontory of Abaco, around which we
+were sailing, is a high, wall-like ridge of rock, whose surface
+gradually inclines from the main body of the island to its abrupt
+termination about a quarter of a league into the sea. As we sailed along
+its eastern side we could not detect the opening from which it derives
+its name. The eye met only a long black wall of rock, whose rugged
+projections were hung with festoons of dark purple sea-weed, and around
+whose base the waters surged, with a roar heard distinctly by us, three
+miles from the island.
+
+On rounding the extremity of the head-land, and bearing up a point or
+two, the arch in the Cape gradually opened till it became wholly
+visible, apparently about half the altitude of, and very similar in
+appearance to the Natural bridge in Virginia. The chasm is irregularly
+arched, and broader at thirty feet from the sea than at its base. The
+water is of sufficient depth, and the arch lofty enough, to allow small
+fishing vessels to pass through the aperture, which is about one hundred
+feet in length through the solid rock. There is a gap which would
+indicate the former existence of a similar cavity, near the end of this
+head-land. A large, isolated mass of rock is here detached from the main
+wall, at its termination in the sea, which was undoubtedly, at some
+former period, joined to it by a natural arch, now fallen into the
+water, as, probably, will happen to this within a century.
+
+These cavities are caused by the undermining of the sea, which, dashing
+unceasingly against the foundations of the wall, shatters and crumbles
+it by its constant abrasion, opens through it immense fissures, and
+loosens large fragments of the rock, that easily yield and give way to
+its increased violence; while the upper stratum, high beyond the reach
+of the surge, remains firm, and, long after the base has crumbled into
+the sea, arches over like a bridge the chasm beneath. By and by this
+falls by its own weight, and is buried beneath the waves.
+
+As the shades of night fell over the sea, and veiled the land from our
+eyes, we had a fresh object of excitement in giving chase to the vessels
+which, as the sun went down among them, were scattered thickly along the
+western horizon far ahead of us--ships, brigs, and schooners, stretching
+away under all sail before the evening breeze to the south and west. We
+had lost sight of them after night had set in, but at about half past
+eight in the evening, as we all were peering through the darkness, upon
+the _qui vive_ for the strangers, a bright light flashed upon our eyes
+over the water, and at the same moment the lookout forward electrified
+us with the cry----
+
+"A ship dead ahead, sir!"
+
+The captain seized his speaking-trumpet, and sprang to the bows; but we
+were there before him, and discovered a solitary light burning at the
+base of a dark pyramid, which towered gloomily in the obscurity of the
+night. The outline of the object was so confused and blended with the
+sky, that we could discern it but indistinctly. To our optics it
+appeared, as it loomed up in the night-haze, to be a ship of the largest
+class. The spy glass was in immediate requisition, but soon laid aside
+again.
+
+Let me inform you that "DAY and NIGHT" marked upon the
+tube of a spy-glass, signifies that it may be used in the day, and kept
+in the beckets at night.
+
+We had been gathered upon the bowsprit and forecastle but a few seconds,
+watching in silence the dark moving tower on the water before us, as we
+approached it rapidly, when we were startled by the sudden hail of the
+stranger, who was now hauling up on our weather bow--
+
+"Ship-ahoy!" burst loudly over the water from the hoarse throat of a
+trumpet.
+
+"Ahoy!" bellowed our captain, so gently back again through the ship's
+trumpet, that the best "bull of Bashan" might have envied him his roar.
+
+"What ship's that?"
+
+"The Plato of Portland," with a second bellow which was a very manifest
+improvement upon the preceding.
+
+"Where bound?"
+
+"New-Orleans!"
+
+Now came our turn to play the querist. "What ship's that?"
+
+"The J. L., eleven days from New-York, bound to New-Orleans."
+
+"Ay, ay--any news?"
+
+"No, nothing particular."
+
+We again moved on in silence; sailing in company, but not always in
+sight of each other, during the remainder of the night.
+
+A delightful prospect met our eyes, on coming on deck the morning after
+making the Hole in the Wall. The sea was crowded with vessels, bearing
+upon its silvery bosom a floating city. By some fortuitous
+circumstance, a fleet of vessels, bearing the flags of various nations,
+had arrived in the Bahama channel at the same time, and now, were
+amicably sailing in company, borne by the same waves--wafted by the same
+breeze, and standing toward the same point. Our New-York friend, for
+whom, on casting our eyes over the lively scene we first searched, we
+discovered nearly two leagues from us to the windward, stretching boldly
+across the most dangerous part of the Bahama Banks, instead of taking,
+with the rest of the fleet, the farther but less hazardous course down
+the "Channel"--if a few inches more of water than the Banks are
+elsewhere covered with, may with propriety be thus denominated.
+
+A little to the south of us, rocking upon the scarcely rising billows,
+was a rough clumsy looking craft, with one low, black mast, and
+amputated bowsprit, about four feet in length, sustaining a jib of no
+particular hue or dimensions. Hoisted upon the mast, was extended a dark
+red painted mainsail, blackened by the smoke, which, issuing from a
+black wooden chimney amidships, curled gracefully upward and floated
+away on the breeze in thin blue clouds. A little triangular bit of red
+bunting fluttered at her mast head; and, towed by a long line at her
+stern, a little green whale-boat skipped and danced merrily over the
+waves. Standing, or rather reclining at the helm--for men learn
+strangely indolent postures in the warm south--with a segar between his
+lips, and his eye fixed earnestly upon the J. L., was a black-whiskered
+fellow, whose head was enveloped in a tri-coloured, conical cap,
+terminated by a tassel, which dangled over his left ear. A blue flannel
+shirt, and white flowing trowsers, with which his body and limbs were
+covered, were secured to his person by a red sash tied around the waist,
+instead of suspenders. Two others similarly dressed, and as bountifully
+bewhiskered, leaned listlessly over the side gazing at our ship, as she
+dashed proudly past their rude bark. A negro, whose charms would have
+been unquestionable in Congo, was stretched, apparently asleep, along
+the main-boom, which one moment swung with him over the water, and the
+next suspended him over his chimney, whose azure incense ascended from
+his own altar, to this ebony deity, in clouds of grateful odour.
+
+"What craft do you call that?" inquired one of the passengers of the
+captain.
+
+"What? It's a wrecker's lugger.--Watch him now!"
+
+At the moment he spoke, the lugger dropped astern of us, came to a few
+points--hauled close on the wind, and then gathering headway, bounded
+off with the speed of the wind in the direction of the New-York packet
+ship, which the wrecker's quicker and more practised eye had detected
+displaying signals of distress. Turning our glasses in the direction of
+the ship, we could see that she had grounded on the bank, thereby
+affording very ample illustration of the truth of the proverb, "The more
+haste the less speed."
+
+About the middle of the forenoon the wind died away, and left us
+becalmed within half a mile of a brig loaded with lumber. The remaining
+vessels of the fleet were fast dispersing over the sea--this Yankee
+"fruiterer" being the only one sailing within a league of us.
+
+These lumber vessels, which are usually loaded with shingles, masts,
+spars, and boards, have been long the floating mines of Maine. But as
+her forests disappear, which are the veins from whence she draws the
+ore, her sons will have to plough the earth instead of the ocean. Then,
+and not till then, will Maine take a high rank as an agricultural state.
+The majority of men who sail in these lumber vessels are both farmers
+and sailors; who cultivate their farms at one season, fell its timber
+and sail away with it in the shape of boards and shingles to a West
+India mart at another. Jonathan is the only man who knows how to carry
+on two trades at one time, and carry them on successfully.
+
+For their lumber, which they more frequently _barter_ away than sell,
+they generally obtain a return cargo of molasses, which is converted by
+our "sober and moral" fellow-countrymen into liquid gunpowder, in the
+vats of those numerous distilleries, which, like guide-posts to the
+regions of death, line the sea skirts of New-England!
+
+The smooth bottom, above which we were suspended, through the deceptive
+transparency of the water, appeared, though eighteen feet beneath us,
+within reach of the oar. But there were many objects floating by upon
+the surface, which afforded us more interest than all beneath it.
+
+Among these was the little nautilus which, gaily dancing over the waves,
+like a Lilliputian mariner,
+
+  "Spreads his thin oar and courts the rising gale."
+
+This beautiful animal sailed past us in fleets wafted by a breeze
+gentler than an infant's breathing. We endeavoured to secure one of them
+more beautiful than its fellows, but like a sensitive plant it instantly
+shrunk at the touch, and sunk beneath the surface; appearing beneath the
+water, like a little, animated globule tinged with the most delicate
+colours. This singular animal is termed by the sailors, "The Portuguee'
+man-o'-war," from what imaginary resemblance to the war vessels of His
+Most Christian Majesty I am at a loss to determine; unless we resort for
+a solution of the mystery to a jack-tar, whom I questioned upon the
+subject--
+
+"It's cause as how they takes in all sail, or goes _chuck_ to bottom,
+when it 'gins to blow a spankin' breeze,"--truly a fine compliment to
+the navarchy of Portugal!
+
+This animal is a genus of the mollusca tribe, which glitters in the
+night on the crest of every bursting wave. In the tropical seas it is
+found riding over the gently ruffled billows in great numbers, with its
+crystalline sail expanded to the light breeze--barks delicate and tiny
+enough for fairy "Queen Mab." Termed by naturalists _pharsalia_, from
+its habit of inflating its transparent sail, this splendid animal is
+often confounded with the _nautilus pompilius_, a genus of marine
+animals of an entirely distinct species, and of a much ruder
+appearance, whose dead shells are found floating every where in the
+tropical seas, while the living animal is found swimming upon the ocean
+in every latitude.
+
+Dr. Coates, in describing the Portuguese man-of-war (pharsalia) says,
+that "it is an oblong animated sack of air, elongated at one extremity
+into a conical neck, and surmounted by a membraneous expansion running
+nearly the whole length of the body, and rising above into a
+semi-circular sail, which can be expanded or contracted to a
+considerable extent at the pleasure of the animal. From beneath the body
+are suspended from ten to fifty, or more little tubes, from half an inch
+to an inch in length, open at their lower extremity, and formed like the
+flower of the blue bottle. These I cannot but consider as proper
+stomachs, from the centre of which depends a little cord, never
+exceeding the fourth of an inch in thickness, and often forty times as
+long as the body.
+
+"The group of stomachs is less transparent, and although the hue is the
+same as that of the back, they are on this account incomparably less
+elegant. By their weight and form they fill the double office of a keel
+and ballast, while the cord-like appendage, which floats out for yards
+behind, is called by seamen "the cable." With this organ, which is
+supposed by naturalists, from the extreme pain felt, when brought in
+contact with the back of the hand, to secrete a poisonous or acrid
+fluid, the animal secures his prey." But in the opinion of Dr. C.
+naturalists in deciding upon this mere hypothesis have concluded too
+hastily. He says that the secret will be better explained by a more
+careful examination of the organ itself. "The cord is composed of a
+narrow layer of contractile fibres, scarcely visible when relaxed, on
+account of its transparency. If the animal be large, this layer of
+fibres will sometimes extend itself to the length of four or five yards.
+A spiral line of blue, bead-like bodies, less than the head of a pin,
+revolves around the cable from end to end, and under the microscope
+these beads appear covered with minute prickles so hard and sharp that
+they will readily enter the substance of wood, adhering with such
+pertinacity that the cord can rarely be detached without breaking.
+
+"It is to these prickles that the man-of-war owes its power of
+destroying animals much its superior in strength and activity. When any
+thing becomes impaled upon the cords, the contractile fibres are called
+into action, and rapidly shrink from many feet in length to less than
+the same number of inches, bringing the prey within reach of the little
+tubes, by one of which it is immediately swallowed.
+
+"Its size varies from half an inch to six inches in length. When it is
+in motion the sail is accommodated to the force of the breeze, and the
+elongated neck is curved upward, giving to the animal a form strongly
+resembling the little glass swans which we sometimes see swimming in
+goblets.
+
+"It is not the form, however, which constitutes the chief beauty of this
+little navigator. The lower part of the body and the neck are devoid of
+all colours except a faint iridescence in reflected lights, and they are
+so perfectly transparent that the finest print is not obscured when
+viewed through them. The back becomes gradually tinged as we ascend,
+with the finest and most delicate hues that can be imagined; the base of
+the sail equals the purest sky in depth and beauty of tint; the summit
+is of the most splendid red, and the central part is shaded by the
+gradual intermixture of these colours through all the intermediate
+grades of purple. Drawn as it were upon a ground-work of mist, the tints
+have an aerial softness far beyond the reach of art."
+
+
+
+
+V.
+
+      A calm--A breeze on the water--The land of flowers--Juan
+      Ponce de Leon--The fountain of perpetual youth--An
+      irremediable loss to single gentlemen--Gulf Stream--New-
+      Providence--Cuba--Pan of Matanzas--Blue hills of Cuba--An
+      armed cruiser--Cape St. Antonio--Pirates--Enter the Mexican
+      Gulf--Mobile--A southern winter--A farewell to the North and
+      a welcome to the South--The close of the voyage--Balize--
+      Fleet--West Indiaman--Portuguese polacre--Land ho!--The land
+      --Its formation--Pilot or "little brief authority"--Light-
+      house--Revenue cutter--Newspapers--"The meeting of the
+      waters"--A singular appearance--A morning off the Balize--
+      The tow-boat.
+
+
+During the period we lay becalmed under a burning sun, which, though
+entering its winter solstice retained the fervour of summer fire, we
+passed the most of our time in the little cockle-shell of a yawl, (as
+though the limits of our ship were not confined enough) riding
+listlessly upon the long billows or rowing far out from the ship, which,
+with all her light sails furled, rolled heavily upon the crestless
+billows, suggesting the anomalous idea of power in a state of
+helplessness.
+
+An hour before sunset our long-idle sails were once more filled by a
+fine breeze, which, ruffling the surface of the ocean more than a league
+distant, we had discerned coming from the Florida shore, some time
+before it reached us; and as it came slowly onward over the sea, we
+watched with no little anxiety the agitated line of waves which danced
+merrily before it, marking its approach.
+
+A faintly delineated gray bank lining the western horizon, marked the
+"land of flowers" of the romantic Ponce de Leon. Can that be Florida!
+the _Pasqua de Flores_ of the Spaniards--the country of blossoms and
+living fountains, welling with perpetual youth! were our reflections as
+we gazed upon the low marshy shore. Yet here the avaricious Spaniard
+sought for a mine more precious than the diamonds and gold of the Incas!
+a fountain whose waters were represented to have the wonderful property
+of rejuvenating old age and perpetuating youth! Here every wrinkled
+Castilian Iolas expected to find a Hebe to restore him to the bloom and
+vigour of Adonis! But alas, for the bachelors of modern days, the seeker
+for fountains of eternal youth wandered only through inhospitable wilds,
+and encountered the warlike Seminoles, who, unlike the timorous natives
+of the newly discovered Indies, met his little band with bold and
+determined resolution. After a long and fruitless search, he returned to
+Porto Rico, wearied, disappointed, and no doubt with his brow more
+deeply furrowed than when he set out upon his singularly romantic
+expedition.
+
+While we glided along the Florida shore, which was fast receding from
+the eye, a sudden boiling and commotion of the sea, which we had
+remarked some time before we were involved in it, assured us that we had
+again entered the Gulf Stream, where it rushes from the Mexican Sea,
+after having made a broad sweep of eighteen hundred miles, and in twenty
+days after emerging from it in higher latitudes. Our course was now very
+sensibly retarded by the strong current against which we sailed, though
+impelled by a breeze which would have wafted us, over a currentless sea,
+nine or ten miles an hour. In the afternoon the blue hills of Cuba,
+elevated above the undulating surface of the island, and stretching
+along its back like a serrated spine, reared themselves from the sea far
+to the south; and at sunset the twin hills of Matanzas, for which
+sailors' imaginations have conjured up not the most pleasing
+appellation--could be just distinguished from the blue waves on the
+verge of the ocean; and receding from the sea, with an uneven surface,
+the vast island rose along the whole southern horizon, not more than
+four or five leagues distant. The Florida shore had long before
+disappeared, though several vessels were standing toward it, bound
+apparently into Key West, between which and Havana we had seen an armed
+schooner, under American colours, hovering during the whole afternoon.
+
+Cape St. Antonio, the notorious rendezvous of that daring band of
+pirates, which, possessing the marauding without the chivalrous spirit
+of the old buccaneers, long infested these seas, just protruded above
+the rim of the horizon far to the south-east. We soon lost sight of it,
+and in the evening, altering our course a little to avoid the shoals
+which are scattered thickly off the southern and western extremity of
+Florida, ran rapidly and safely past the Tortugas--the Scylla and
+Charybdis of this southern latitude.
+
+We already begin to appreciate the genial influence of a southern
+climate. The sun, tempered by a pleasant wind, beams down upon us warm
+and cheerily--the air is balmy and laden with grateful fragrance from
+the unseen land--and though near the first of December, at which time
+you dwellers under the wintry skies of the north, are shivering over
+your grates, we have worn our summer garments and palm-leaf hats for
+some days past. If this is a specimen of a southern winter, where
+quietly to inhale the mellow air is an elysian enjoyment--henceforth
+sleighing and skating will have less charms for me.
+
+We are at last at the termination of our voyage upon the _sea_. In three
+days at the farthest we expect to land in New-Orleans. But three days
+upon the waveless Mississippi to those who have been riding a month upon
+the ocean, is but a trifle. After an uncommonly long, but unusually
+pleasant passage of thirty-one days, we anchored off the Balize[1] last
+evening at sun set.
+
+The tedious monotony of our passage since leaving Cuba, was more than
+cancelled by the scenes and variety of yesterday. We had not seen a sail
+for four or five days, when, on ascending to the deck at sunrise
+yesterday morning, judge of my surprise and pleasure at beholding a
+fleet of nearly fifty vessels surrounding us on every side, all standing
+to one common centre; in the midst of which our own gallant ship dashed
+proudly on, like a high mettled courser contending for the victory. To
+one imprisoned in a companionless ship on the broad and lonely ocean so
+many days, this was a scene, from its vivid contrast, calculated to
+awaken in the bosom emotions of the liveliest gratification and
+pleasure.
+
+A point or two abaft our beam, within pistol shot distance, slowly and
+majestically moved a huge, British West Indiaman, her black gloomy hull
+wholly unrelieved by brighter colours, with her red ensign heavily
+unfolding to the breeze in recognition of the stars and stripes,
+floating gracefully at our peak. Farther astern, a taunt-rigged, rakish
+looking Portuguese polacca (polaque) carrying even in so light a breeze
+a "bone in her teeth," glided swiftly along, every thing set from deck
+to truck. We could distinctly see the red woollen caps and dark red
+faces of her crew, peering over the bow, as they pointed to, and made
+remarks upon our ship. Early in the morning, about a league ahead of
+us, we had observed a heavy sailing Dutch ship, as indeed all Dutch
+ships are; about eleven o'clock we came up with, and passed her, with
+the same facility as if she had been at anchor. On all sides of us
+vessels of nearly every maritime nation were in sight; and in
+conjectures respecting them, and in admiring their variety of
+construction and appearance, we passed most of the day, elated with the
+prospect of a speedy termination to our voyage.
+
+Before we had completed dinner, the cry of "Land ho!" was heard from the
+main-top, and in the course of half an hour we saw from the deck, not
+exactly _land_, but an apology for it, in the form and substance of an
+immense marsh of tall, wild grass, which stretched along the horizon
+from west to east _ad infinitum_. This soil, if you may term it such, is
+formed by the accumulation and deposition of ochreous matter discharged
+by the Mississippi, whose turbid waters are more or less charged with
+terrene particles, so much so, that a glass filled with its water
+appears to deposit in a short time a sediment nearly equal to
+one-twelfth of its bulk. The matter discharged by the river, condensed
+and strengthened by logs, trees, grass, and other gross substances, is
+raised above the ordinary tide waters, upon which a soil is formed of
+mingled sand and marl, capable of producing the long grass, which not
+only lines the coast in the vicinity of this river, but extends many
+miles into the interior, where it unites with the cypress swamps which
+cover the greater part of the unreclaimed lowlands of Louisiana. We
+coasted along this shore till about three in the afternoon, when the
+light-house at the South-East passage, the chief _embouchure_ of the
+Mississippi, appeared in sight but a few miles ahead; passing this, we
+received a pilot from a fairy-like pilot-boat, which, on delivering him,
+bounded away from us like a swift-winged albatross. About four o'clock
+the light-house at the South-West passage lifted its solitary head above
+the horizon. The breeze freshening, we approached it rapidly, under the
+guidance of the pilot, who had taken command of our ship. When nearly
+abreast of the light-house, a fierce little warlike-looking revenue
+cutter ran alongside of us, and lowering her boat, sent her lieutenant
+on board, to see that "all was straight." He cracked a bottle of wine
+with the captain, and leaving some late New-Orleans papers, took his
+departure. For the next half hour the quarter-deck appeared like a
+school-room--buzz, buzz, buzz! till the papers were read and re-read,
+advertisements and all, and all were satisfied. About six in the evening
+we cast anchor at the mouth of the South-West pass, in company not only
+with the fleet in which we had sailed during the day, but with a large
+fleet already at anchor, waiting for tide, pilots, wind, or tow-boats.
+In approaching the mouth of the river, we observed, to us, a novel and
+remarkable appearance--the meeting of the milky, turbid waters of the
+Mississippi, with the pale green of the ocean. The waters of the former,
+being lighter than the latter, and not readily mingling with it, are
+thrown upon the surface, floating like oil to the depth of only two or
+three feet. A ship passing through this water, leaves a long, dark
+wake, which is slowly covered by the uniting of the parted waters. The
+line of demarkation between the yellowish-brown water of the river, and
+the clear green water of the sea, is so distinctly defined, that a cane
+could be laid along it. When we first discovered the long white line,
+about two miles distant, it presented the appearance of a low sand
+beach. As we reached it, I went aloft, and seating myself in the
+top-gallant cross-trees, beheld one of the most singular appearances of
+which I had ever formed any conception. When within a few fathoms of the
+discoloured water, we appeared to be rushing on to certain destruction,
+and when our sharp keel cut and turned up the sluggish surface, I
+involuntarily shuddered; the next instant we seemed suspended between
+two seas. Another moment, and we had passed the line of division,
+ploughing the lazy and muddy waves, and leaving a dark transparent wake
+far astern. We are hourly expecting our tow-boat--the Whale. When she
+arrives we shall immediately, in the company of some other ships, move
+up for New-Orleans. The morning is delightful, and we have the prospect
+of a pleasant sail, or rather _tow_, up the river. A hundred snow-white
+sails are reflecting the rays of the morning sun, while the rapid
+dashing of the swift pilot-boats about us, and the slower movements of
+ships getting under weigh to cross the bar, and work their own way up to
+the city--together with the mingling sounds of stern commands, and the
+sonorous "heave-ho-yeo!" of the labouring seamen, borne upon the breeze,
+give an almost unparalleled charm and novelty to the scene. Our Whale
+is now in sight, spouting, not _jets d'eau_, but volumes of dense black
+smoke. We shall soon be under weigh, and every countenance is bright
+with anticipation. Within an hour we shall be floating upon the great
+artery of North America, "prisoners of hope" and of _steam_, on our way
+to add our little number to the countless thousands who throng the
+streets of the Key of the Great Valley through which it flows.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] French BALISE, Spanish, VALIZA, a _beacon_; once placed at the mouth
+of the river, but now superseded by a light-house. Hence the term
+"Balize" applied to the mouth of the Mississippi.
+
+
+
+
+PART II.
+
+
+
+
+VI.
+
+      The Mississippi--The Whale--Description of tow-boats--A
+      package--A threatened storm--A beautiful brigantine--
+      Physiognomy of ships--Richly furnished cabin--An obliging
+      Captain--Desert the ship--Getting under weigh--A chain of
+      captives--Towing--New-Orleans--A mystery to be unraveled.
+
+
+Upon the mighty bosom of the "Father of Waters", our gallant ship now
+proudly floats. The Mississippi! that noble river, whose magnificent
+windings I have traced with my finger upon the map in my school-boy
+days, wishing, with all the adventurous longing of a boy, that I might,
+like the good fathers Marquette and Hennepin, leap into an Indian's
+birch canoe, and launching from its source among the snows and untrodden
+wilds of the far north, float pleasantly away under every climate, down
+to the cis-Atlantic Mediterranean; where, bursting from its confined
+limits, it proudly shoots into that tideless sea through numerous
+passages, like radii from one common centre. My wishes are now, in a
+measure, about to be realized. The low, flat, and interminable marshes,
+through the heart of which we are rapidly advancing--the ocean-like
+horizon, unrelieved by the slightest prominence--the sullen, turbid
+waves around us, which yield but slowly and heavily to the irresistible
+power of steam--all familiar characteristics of this river--would alone
+assure me that I am on the Mississippi. My last letter left us in the
+immediate expectation of being taken in tow by the "Whale," then coming
+rapidly down the South-West passage, in obedience to the hundred signals
+flying at the "fore" of as many vessels on every side of us. In a few
+minutes, snorting and dashing over the long ground-swell, and flinging a
+cloud of foam from her bows, she ran alongside of us, and sent her boat
+on board. While the little skiff was leaping from wave to wave to our
+ship, we had time to observe more attentively than when in motion, the
+singular appearance of this _unique_ class of steamboats.
+
+Her engine is of uncommon power, placed nearer the centre of the hull
+than in boats of the usual construction; her cabin is small, elevated,
+and placed near the engine in the centre of the boat. With the exception
+of the engine and cabin, she is "flush" from stem to stern; one quarter
+of her length abaft the cabin, and the same portion forward of the
+boilers being a broad platform, which extends quite around the boat,
+forming a very spacious guard on either side.
+
+The after part of this guard is latticed for the purpose of carrying off
+the water with facility when thrown back from the wheels. They seldom or
+never take passengers up to the city. The usual price for towing is, I
+think, about one dollar _per_ ton. Hence the expense is very great for
+vessels of large burthen; and rather than incur it, many ships, after
+being towed over the bar, which, at this season, cannot be crossed
+otherwise, work their own way up to town, which, with a fair wind, may
+be effected in twenty-four hours, the distance being but one hundred and
+five miles; but it not unfrequently takes them ten or fifteen days. Our
+captain informs me that he once lay thirty-six days in the river before
+he could reach New-Orleans--but fortunately, owing to the state of the
+market, on his arrival, he realized two hundred per cent. more on his
+cargo than he would have done had he arrived a month earlier.
+
+The jolly-boat from the steamer was now along side, and the officer in
+the stern sheets tossed a small package on our quarter-deck; and then,
+with the velocity of an uncaged bird, his little green cockle-shell
+darted away from us like a dolphin. The next moment he stood upon the
+low deck of the steamer.
+
+"Go ahead!" loudly was borne over the water, and with a plunge and a
+struggle, away she dashed from us with her loud, regular _boom_, _boom_,
+_boom_! throwing the spray around her head, like the huge gambolling
+monster from which she derives her name. With her went our hopes of
+speedy deliverance from our present durance. With faces whose
+complicated, whimsically-woful expression Lavater himself could not have
+analyzed, and as though moved by one spirit, we turned simultaneously
+toward the captain, who leaned against the capstan, reading one of the
+letters from the package just received. There was a cloud upon his brow
+which portended no good to our hopes, and which, by a sympathetic
+feeling, was attracted to, and heavily settled upon our own. We turned
+simultaneously to the tow-boat: she was rapidly receding in the
+distance. We turned again to watch our probable fate in the captain's
+face. It spoke as plainly as face could speak, "gentlemen, _no_
+tow-boat." We gazed upon each other like school-boys hatching a
+conspiracy. Mutual glances of chagrin and dissatisfaction were bandied
+about the decks. After so long a passage, with our port almost in sight,
+and our voyage nearly ended, to be compelled to remain longer in our
+close prison, and creep like a
+
+  "Wounded snake, dragging its slow length along,"
+
+winding, day after day, through the sinuosities of this sluggish
+Mississippi, was enough to make us ship-wearied wretches verily,
+
+  "To weep our spirits from our eyes."
+
+It was a consummation we had never wished. There was evidently a
+rebellion in embryo. The storm was rapidly gathering, and the thunders
+had already begun "to utter their voices." The whole scene was
+infinitely amusing. There could not have been more _feeling_ exhibited,
+had an order come down for the ship to ride a Gibraltar quarantine.
+
+The captain, having quietly finished the perusal of his letters, now
+changed at once the complexion of affairs.
+
+"I have just received advices, gentlemen, from my consignees in the
+city, that the market will be more favourable for my cargo fifteen days
+hence, than now; therefore, as I have so much leisure before me, I shall
+decline taking the tow-boat, and sail up to New-Orleans. I will,
+however, send my boat aboard the brig off our starboard quarter, which
+will take steam, and try to engage passage for those who wish to leave
+the ship."
+
+There was no alternative, and we cheerfully sacrificed our individual
+wishes to the interests of Captain Callighan, whose urbanity, kindness
+and gentlemanly deportment, during the whole passage out, had not only
+contributed to our comfort and happiness, but won for him our cordial
+esteem and good feelings.[2]
+
+In a few minutes one of our quarter-boats was alongside, bobbing up and
+down on the short seas, with the buoyancy of a cork-float. The first
+officer, myself, and another passenger, leaped into her; and a few dozen
+long and nervous strokes from the muscular arms of our men, soon ran us
+aboard the brig, whose anchor was already "apeak," in readiness for the
+Whale. As we approached her, I was struck with her admirable symmetry
+and fine proportions--she was a perfect model of naval architecture.
+Though rather long for her breadth of beam, the sharp construction of
+her bows, and the easy, elliptical curve of her sides, gave her a
+peculiarly light and graceful appearance, which, united with her taunt,
+slightly raking taper masts, and the precision of her rigging, presented
+to our view a nautical _ensemble_, surpassing in elegance any thing of
+the kind I had ever before beheld.
+
+We were politely received at the gangway by the captain, a gentlemanly,
+sailor-like looking young man, with whom, after introducing ourselves,
+we descended into the cabin. I had time, however, to notice that the
+interior of this very handsome vessel corresponded with the exterior.
+The capstan, the quarter-rail stanchions, the edge of the companion-way,
+and the taffrail, were all ornamented and strengthened with massive
+brass plates, polished like a mirror. The binnacle case was of ebony,
+enriched with inlaying and carved work. A dazzling array of steel-headed
+boarding pikes formed a glittering crescent half around the main-mast.
+Her decks evinced the free use of the "holy-stone," and in snowy
+whiteness, would have put to the blush the unsoiled floors of the most
+fastidious Yankee housewife. Her rigging was not hung on pins, but run
+and coiled "man-o'-war fashion," upon her decks. Her long boat,
+amidships, was rather an ornament than an excrescence, as in most
+merchantmen. Forward, the "men" were gathered around the windlass, which
+was abaft the foremast, all neatly dressed in white trousers and shirts,
+even to the sable "Doctor" and his "sub," whose double banks of ivories
+were wonderingly illuminative, as they grinned at the strangers who had
+so unceremoniously boarded the brig.
+
+As I descended the mahogany stair-case, supported by a highly polished
+balustrade cast in brass, my curiosity began to be roused, and I found
+myself wondering into what pleasure-yacht I had intruded. She was
+evidently American; for the "stars and stripes" were floating over our
+heads. Independent of this evidence of her nation, her bright, golden
+sides, and peculiar American _expression_ (for I contend that there is a
+national and an individual expression to every vessel, as strongly
+marked and as easily defined as the expression of every human
+countenance,) unhesitatingly indicated her country.
+
+My curiosity was increased on entering the roomy, richly wrought, and
+tastefully furnished cabin. The fairest lady in England's halls might
+have coveted it for her _boudoir_. Here were every luxury and comfort,
+that wealth and taste combined could procure. A piano, on which lay
+music books, a flute, clarionet, and a guitar of curious workmanship,
+occupied one side of the cabin; on the other stood a sofa, most
+temptingly inviting a loll, and a centre table was strewed with
+pamphlets, novels, periodicals, poetry, and a hundred little unwritten
+elegancies. The transom was ingeniously constructed, so as to form a
+superb sideboard, richly covered with plate, but more richly _lined_, as
+we subsequently had an opportunity of knowing, to our hearts' content.
+Three doors with mirrored panelling gave egress from the cabin,
+forward, to two state rooms and a dining-room, furnished in the same
+style of magnificence.
+
+My companions shared equally in my surprise, at the novelty of every
+thing around us. I felt a disposition to return to our ship, fearing
+that our proposition to take passage in the brig might be unacceptable.
+But before I had come to a decision, Mr. F., our first officer, with
+true sailor-like bluntness, had communicated our situation and wishes.
+"Certainly," replied the captain, "but I regret that my state-rooms will
+not accommodate more than five or six; the others will have to swing
+hammocks between decks; if they will do this, they are welcome."
+Although this compliance with our request was given with the utmost
+cheerfulness and alacrity, I felt that our taking passage with him would
+be inconvenient and a gross intrusion; and would have declined saying,
+that some other vessel would answer our purpose equally well. He would
+not listen to me but in so urgent a manner requested us to take passage
+with him, that we reluctantly consented, and immediately returned to our
+ship to relate our success, and transfer our baggage to the brig.
+Fortunately, but five of our party, including two ladies, were anxious
+to leave the ship; the remainder choosing rather to remain on board, and
+go up to town in her, as the captain flattered them with the promise of
+an early arrival should the wind hold fair.
+
+In less than ten minutes we had bidden farewell, and wished a speedy
+passage to our fellow-passengers, who had so rashly refused to "give up
+the ship" and were on our way with "bag and baggage" to the brig, which
+now and then rose proudly upon a long sea, and then slowly and
+gracefully settled into its yielding bosom.
+
+We had been on board but a short time when the Whale, which had already
+towed four ships and a brig, one at a time, over the bar, leaving each
+half a league up the passage, came bearing down upon us. In an
+incredibly short time she brought to ahead of us, and in less than five
+minutes had our brig firmly secured to her by two hawsers, with about
+fifty fathoms play.
+
+In the course of half an hour, we arrived where the five other vessels,
+which were to accompany us in tow, were anchored. More than two hours
+were consumed in properly securing the vessels to the tow-boat. Our brig
+was lashed to her larboard, and the huge British Indiaman, mentioned in
+my last letter, to her starboard side. Two ships sociably followed,
+about a cable's length astern, and a Spanish brig and a French ship,
+about one hundred yards astern of these, brought up the rear.
+
+These arrangements completed, the command to "go ahead" was given, and
+slowly, one after the other, the captive fleet yielded to the immense
+power of the high-pressure engine. Gradually our motion through the
+water became more and more rapid, till we moved along at the rate of
+seven knots an hour. The appearance our convoy presented, was novel and
+sublime. It was like a triumph! The wind though light, was fair, and
+every vessel was covered with clouds of snowy canvass. The loud, deep,
+incessant booming from the tow-boat--the black and dense masses of smoke
+rolling up and curling and wreathing around the lofty white sails, then
+shooting off horizontally through the air, leaving a long cloudy galaxy
+astern, contributed greatly to the novelty of this extraordinary scene.
+We are now within twenty miles of the city of Frenchmen and garlic
+soups, steamboats and yellow fever, negroes and quadroons, hells and
+convents, soldiers and slaves, and things, and people of every language
+and kindred, nation and tribe upon the face of the earth. From this
+place you will receive my next letter, wherein perchance you may find a
+solution of the mystery thrown around our beautiful vessel.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[2] Our ship was not a line-packet: they never delay.
+
+
+
+
+VII.
+
+      Louisiana--Arrival at New-Orleans--Land--Pilot stations
+      --Pilots--Anecdote--Fort--Forests--Levee--Crevasses--Alarms
+      --Accident--Espionage--A Louisianian palace--Grounds--
+      Sugar-house--Quarters--An African governess--Sugar cane--
+      St. Mary--"English Turn"--Cavalcade--Battle ground--Music
+      --Sounds of the distant city--Land in New-Orleans--An
+      _amateur_ sailor.
+
+
+We are at last in New-Orleans, the queen of the South-west--the American
+Waterloo, whose Wellington, "General Jackson"--according to the elegant
+ballad I believe still extant in the "Boston picture-books,"
+
+                  ---- "quick did go
+    With Yankee(?) troops to meet the foe;
+    We met them near to New-Orleans
+    And made their blood to flow in streams."
+
+New-Orleans! the play-thing of monarchs. "Swapped," as boys swap their
+penknives. Discovered and lost by the French--possessed by the
+gold-hunting Spaniard--again ceded to the French--exchanged for a
+kingdom with the man who traded in empires, and sold by him, for a
+"plum" to our government!
+
+We arrived between eight and nine last evening, after a very pleasant
+run of twenty-eight hours from the Balize, charmed and delighted of
+course with every thing. If we had landed at the entrance of Vulcan's
+smithy from so long a sea-passage, it would have been precisely the
+same--all would have appeared "_couleur de rose_." To be _on land_, even
+were it a sand bank, is all that is requisite to render it in the eyes
+of the new landed passenger, a Paradise.
+
+During the first part of our sail up the river, there was nothing
+sufficiently interesting in the way of incident or variety of scenery,
+to merit the trouble either of narration or perusal. Till we arrived
+within forty-five or fifty miles of New-Orleans, the shores of the river
+presented the same flat, marshy appearance previously described. With
+the exception of two or three "pilot stations," near its mouth, I do not
+recollect that we passed any dwelling. These "stations" are situated
+within a few miles of the mouth of the river, and are the residences of
+the pilots. The one on the left bank of the river, which I had an
+opportunity of visiting, contained about sixteen or eighteen houses,
+built upon piles, in the midst of the morass, which is the only apology
+for land within twenty leagues. One third of these are dwelling houses,
+connected with each other for the purpose of intercourse, by raised
+walks or bridges, laid upon the surface of the mud, and constructed of
+timber, logs, and wrecks of vessels. Were a hapless wight to lose his
+footing, he would descend as easily and gracefully into the bosom of the
+yielding loam, as into a barrel of soft soap. The intercourse with the
+shore, near which this miserable, isolated congregation of shanties is
+imbedded, is also kept up by a causeway of similar construction and
+materials.
+
+The pilots, of whom there are from twelve to twenty at each station, are
+a hardy, rugged class of men. Most of them have been mates of
+merchantmen, or held some inferior official station in the navy. The
+majority of them, I believe, are English, though Americans, Frenchmen
+and Spaniards, are not wanting among their number. The moral character
+of this class of men, generally, does not stand very high, though there
+are numerous instances of individuals among them, whose nautical skill
+and gentlemanly deportment reflect honour upon their profession.
+
+It is by no means an unusual circumstance for the commander of a ship,
+on entering a harbour, to resign, _pro tem._, the charge of his vessel
+to a pilot, whom a few years before, while a petty officer under his
+command, he may have publicly disgraced and dismissed from his ship for
+some misdemeanor.
+
+In eighteen hundred and twenty-seven, when off Maldonado, ascending the
+La Plata, a Spanish pilot came on board a ship of war; and as he stalked
+aft from the gangway, with the assumed hauteur of littleness in power,
+the penetrating eye of one of the lieutenants was fixed upon his
+countenance with a close and scrutinizing gaze. The eye of the pilot
+fell beneath its stern expression for a moment; but he again raised it,
+and stealing a quick, furtive, and apparently recognising glance at the
+officer, his dark brown face changed suddenly to the hue of death, and
+with a fearful cry, he sprang with the activity of a cat into the mizen
+rigging; but before he could leap over the quarter, the officer had
+seized a musket from a marine, and fired: the ball struck him near the
+elbow the instant he had cleared the rigging. A heavy splash was heard
+in the water, and as those on deck flew to the stern, a dark spot of
+blood upon the water was the only evidence that a human being had sunk
+beneath. While they were engaged in looking upon the spot where he had
+plunged, and wondering, without knowing the cause, at this summary
+method of proceeding on the part of the lieutenant, a cry, "there he
+is," was heard and repeated by fifty voices, naval discipline to the
+contrary notwithstanding, and about twenty fathoms astern, the black
+head of the pilot was seen emerging from the waves--but the next
+instant, with a horrible Spanish curse, he dived from their sight, and
+in a few minutes, appeared more than a hundred yards astern.
+
+It appeared that during the well-known piratical depredations, a few
+years previous, in the vicinity of Key West and Cape St. Antonio, this
+officer had the command of a shore expedition against the pirates.
+During the excursion he attacked a large band of them in their retreats,
+and, after a long and warmly contested conflict, either slew or took the
+whole party prisoners. Among those was the redoubtable pilot, who held
+the goodly office of second in command among those worthy gentlemen. But
+as they proceeded to their schooner, which lay half a league from the
+shore, the rover, not liking the prospect which his skill in "second
+sight" presented to his fancy, suddenly, with a powerful effort, threw
+off the two men between whom he was seated, and leaping, with both arms
+pinioned behind him, over the head of the astonished bow oarsman,
+disappeared "instanter;" and while a score of muskets and pistols were
+levelled in various directions, made his appearance, in a few minutes,
+about a furlong astern, and out of reach of shot. It was thought useless
+to pursue him in a heavy barge, and he effected his escape. This said
+swimmer was recognised by the lieutenant in the person of the pilot; and
+as the recognition was mutual, the scene I have narrated followed.
+
+At sunrise, the morning after leaving the Balize, we passed the ruins,
+or rather the former location, (for the traces are scarcely perceptible)
+of the old Spanish fort Plaquemine, where, while this country was under
+Spanish government, all vessels were obliged to heave to, and produce
+their passports for the inspection of the sage, big-whiskered Dons, who
+were there whilom domesticated.
+
+Toward noon, the perpetual sameness of the shores, (they cannot be
+termed _banks_) of the river, were relieved by clumps of cypress and
+other trees, which gradually, as we advanced, increased into forests,
+extending back to a level horizon, as viewed from the mast-head, and
+overhanging both sides of the river. Though so late in the season, they
+still retained the green freshness of summer, and afforded an agreeable
+contrast to the dry and leafless forests which we had just left at the
+north. At a distance, we beheld the first plantation to be seen on
+ascending the river. As we approached it, we discovered from the deck
+the commencement of the embankment or "Levee," which extends, on both
+sides of the river, to more than one hundred and fifty miles above
+New-Orleans. This _levee_ is properly a dike, thrown up on the verge of
+the river, from twenty-five to thirty feet in breadth, and two feet
+higher than high-water mark; leaving a ditch, or fosse, on the inner
+side, of equal breadth, from which the earth to form the levee is taken.
+Consequently, as the land bordering on the river is a dead level, and,
+without the security of the levee, overflowed at half tides, when the
+river is full, or within twenty inches, as it often is, of the top of
+the embankment, the surface of the river will be _four feet higher_ than
+the surface of the country; the altitude of the inner side of the levee
+being usually six feet above the general surface of the surrounding
+land.
+
+This is a startling truth; and at first leads to reflections by no means
+favorable in their results, to the safety, either of the lives or
+property of the inhabitants of the lowlands of Louisiana. But closer
+observation affords the assurance that however threatening a mass of
+water four feet in height, two thousand five hundred in breadth, and of
+infinite length, may be in appearance, experience has not shown to any
+great extent, that the residents on the borders of this river have in
+reality, more to apprehend from an inundation, so firm and efficacious
+is their levee, than those who reside in more apparent security, upon
+the elevated banks of our flooding rivers of the north. It cannot be
+denied that there have been instances where "crevasses" as they are
+termed here, have been gradually worn through the levee, by the
+attrition of the waters, when, suddenly starting through in a wiry
+stream, they rapidly enlarge to torrents which, with the force, and
+noise, and rushing of a mill-race, shoot away over the plantations,
+inundating the sugar fields, and losing themselves in the boundless
+marshes in the rear. But on such occasions, which however are not
+frequent, the alarm is given and communicated by the plantation bells,
+and before half an hour elapses, several hundred negroes, with their
+masters, (who all turn out on these occasions, as at a fire,) will have
+gathered to the spot, and at the expiration of another half-hour, the
+breach will be stopped, the danger past, and the "Monarch of rivers,"
+subdued by the hand of man, will be seen again moving, submissively
+obedient, within his prescribed limits, sullenly, yet majestically to
+the ocean.
+
+During the afternoon, we passed successively many sugar plantations, in
+the highest state of cultivation. Owing to the elevation of the levee,
+and the low situation of the lands, we could see from the deck only the
+upper story of the planters' residences upon the shore; but from the
+main top, we had an uninterrupted view of every plantation which we
+passed. As they very much resemble each other in their general features,
+a description of one of them will be with a little variation applicable
+to all. Fortunately for me, a slight accident to our machinery, which
+delayed us fifteen or twenty minutes, in front of one of the finest
+plantations below New-Orleans, enabled me to put in practice a short
+system of _espionage_ upon the premises, from the main top, with my
+spy-glass, that introduced me into the very _sanctum_ of the enchanting
+ornamental gardens, in which the palace-like edifice was half-embowered.
+
+The house was quadrangular, with a high steep Dutch roof, immensely
+large, and two stories in height; the basement or lower story being
+constructed of brick, with a massive colonnade of the same materials on
+all sides of the building. This basement was raised to a level with the
+summit of the levee, and formed the ground-work or basis of the edifice,
+which was built of wood, painted white, with Venetian blinds, and
+latticed verandas, supported by slender and graceful pillars, running
+round every side of the dwelling. Along the whole western front,
+festooned in massive folds, hung a dark-green curtain, which is dropped
+along the whole length of the balcony in a summer's afternoon, not only
+excluding the burning rays of the sun, but inviting the inmates to a
+cool and refreshing _siesta_, in some one of the half dozen network
+hammocks, which we discovered suspended in the veranda. The basement
+seemed wholly unoccupied, and probably was no more than an over-ground
+cellar. At each extremity of the piazza was a broad and spacious flight
+of steps, descending into the garden which enclosed the dwelling on
+every side.
+
+Situated about two hundred yards back from the river, the approach to it
+was by a lofty massive gateway which entered upon a wide gravelled walk,
+bordered by dark foliaged orange trees, loaded with their golden fruit.
+Pomegranate, fig, and lemon trees, shrubs, plants and exotics of every
+clime and variety, were dispersed in profusion over this charming
+_parterre_. Double palisades of lemon and orange trees surrounded the
+spot, forming one of the loveliest and most elegant rural retirements,
+that imagination could create or romantic ambition desire. About half a
+mile in the rear of the dwelling, I observed a large brick building with
+lofty chimneys resembling towers. This was the sugar-house, wherein the
+cane undergoes its several transmutations, till that state of
+_perfection_ is obtained, which renders it marketable.
+
+On the left and diagonally from the dwelling house we noticed a very
+neat, pretty village, containing about forty small snow-white cottages,
+all precisely alike, built around a pleasant square, in the centre of
+which, was a grove or cluster of magnificent sycamores. Near by,
+suspended from a belfry, was the bell which called the slaves to and
+from their work and meals. This village was their residence, and under
+the shade of the trees in the centre of the square, we could discern
+troops of little ebony urchins from the age of eight years downward, all
+too young to work in the field, at their play--under the charge of an
+old, crippled _gouvernante_, who, being past "field service," was thus
+promoted in the "home department."
+
+This plantation was about one mile and a half in depth from the river,
+terminating, like all in lower Louisiana, in an impenetrable cypress
+swamp; and about two miles in breadth by the levee. About one half was
+waving with the rich long-leafed cane, and agreeably variegated,
+exhibiting every delicate shade from the brightest yellow to the darkest
+green. A small portion of the remainder was in corn, which grows
+luxuriantly in this country, though but little cultivated; and the rest
+lay in fallow, into which a portion of every plantation is thrown,
+alternately, every two years.
+
+By the time I had completed my observations, spying the richness, rather
+than "the nakedness" of the land, the engineer had arranged the
+machinery and we were again in motion; passing rapidly by rich gardens,
+spacious avenues, tasteful villas, and extensive fields of cane, bending
+to the light breeze with the wavy motion of the sea. Just before sunset
+we passed the site of the old fort St. Mary, and in half an hour after,
+swept round into the magnificent curve denominated the "English
+Turn."[3] As we sailed along, gay parties, probably returning from and
+going to, the city, on horseback, in barouches and carriages, were
+passing along the level road within the levee; their heads and shoulders
+being only visible above it, gave to the whole cavalcade a singularly
+ludicrous appearance--a strange bobbing of heads, hats and feathers,
+suggesting the idea of a new genus of locomotives amusing themselves
+upon the green sward.
+
+Much to our regret, we did not arrive opposite the "battle ground" till
+some time after sunset. But we were in some measure remunerated for our
+disappointment, by gazing down upon the scene of the conflict from
+aloft, while as bright and clear a moon as ever shed its mellow radiance
+over a southern landscape, poured its full flood of light upon the now
+quiet battle field. I could distinguish that it was under cultivation,
+and that princely dwellings were near and around it; and my ear told me
+as we sailed swiftly by, that where shouts of conflict and carnage once
+broke fiercely upon the air, now floated the lively notes of cheerful
+music, which were wafted over the waters to the ship, falling pleasantly
+upon the ear.
+
+The lights and habitations along the shore now became more frequent.
+Luggers, manned by negroes, light skiffs, with a solitary occupant in
+each, and now and then a dark hulled vessel, her lofty sails, reflecting
+the bright moon light, appearing like snowy clouds in the clear blue
+sky, were rapidly and in increasing numbers, continually gliding by us.
+By these certain indications we knew that we were not far from the goal
+so long the object of our wishes.
+
+We had been anticipating during the morning an early arrival, when the
+panorama of the crescent city should burst upon our view enriched, by
+the mellow rays of a southern sun, with every variety of light and shade
+that could add to the beauty or novelty of the scene. But our sanguine
+anticipations were not to be realized. The shades of night had long
+fallen over the town, when, as we swiftly moved forward, anxiously
+trying to penetrate the obscurity, an interminable line of lights
+gradually opened in quick succession upon our view; and a low hum, like
+the far off roaring of the sea, with the heavy and irregular tolling of
+a deep mouthed bell, was borne over the waves upon the evening breeze,
+mingling at intervals with loud calls far away on the shore, and fainter
+replies still more distant. The fierce and incessant baying of dogs, and
+as we approached nearer, the sound of many voices, as in a tumult;--and
+anon, the wild, clear, startling notes of a bugle, waking the slumbering
+echoes on the opposite shore, succeeded by the solitary voice of some
+lonely singer, blended with the thrumming notes of a guitar, falling
+with melancholy cadence upon the ear--all gave indications that we were
+rapidly approaching the termination of our voyage.
+
+In a few minutes, as we still shot onward, we could trace a thousand
+masts, penciled distinctly with all their network rigging upon the clear
+evening sky. We moved swiftly in among them; and gradually checking her
+speed, the tow-boat soon came nearly to a full stop, and casting off the
+ship astern, rounded to and left us along side of a Salem ship, which
+lay outside of a tier "six deep." When the bustle and confusion of
+making fast had subsided, we began our preparations to go on shore. So
+anxious were we once more to tread "terra firma," that we determined not
+to wait for a messenger to go half a mile for a carriage, but to walk
+through the gayly lighted streets to our hotel in Canal-street, more
+than a mile distant. So after much trouble in laying planks, for the
+surer footing of the ladies, from gangway to gangway, we safely reached,
+after crossing half a dozen ships, the firm, immoveable Levee. I will
+now briefly relate the little history of our truly elegant brig, as I
+partially promised to do in my last, and conclude this long, long
+letter.
+
+Her commander was formerly an officer of the United States navy. He is a
+graduate of Harvard University, and presents in his person the
+admirable union of the polished gentleman, finished scholar, and
+practical seaman. Inheriting a princely fortune from a bachelor uncle,
+he returned to Massachusetts, his native state, and built according to
+his own taste the beautiful vessel he now commands. He has made in her
+one voyage to India, and two up the Mediterranean, and is now at this
+port to purchase a cargo of cotton for the European market. His officers
+are gentlemen of education and nautical science; his equals and
+companions in the cabin, though his subordinates on the deck.
+
+If the imagination of the lonely sailor, as he mechanically paces his
+midnight watch, creates an Utopia in the wide ocean of futurity, if
+there be a limit to the enjoyment of a refined seaman's wishes, or a "ne
+plus ultra," to his ambition, they must all be realized and achieved, by
+the sole command and control of a vessel so correctly beautiful as the
+D----; so ably officered and manned, so opulent with every luxury,
+comfort, and convenience, and free as the winds to go and come over the
+"dark blue sea," obedient alone to the uncontrolled will and submissive
+to the lightest pleasure of her absolute commander.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[3] Tradition saith, that some British vessels of war pursuing some
+American vessels up the river, on arriving at this place gave up the
+pursuit as useless, and _turned_ back to the Balize.
+
+Another tradition saith that John Bull chasing some American ships up
+the river, thought, in his wisdom, when he arrived at this bend, that
+this was but another of the numerous outlets of the hydra-headed
+Mississippi, and supposing the Yankee ships were taking advantage of it
+to escape to the sea--he _turned_ about and followed his way back;
+again, determined, as school boys say, to "head them!"
+
+
+
+
+VIII.
+
+      Bachelor's comforts--A valuable valet--Disembarked at the
+      Levee--A fair Castilian--Canaille--The Crescent city--
+      Reminiscence of school days--French cabarets--Cathedral--
+      Exchange--Cornhill--A chain of light--A fracas--Gens d'Armes
+      --An affair of honour--Arrive at our hotel.
+
+
+How delightfully comfortable one feels, and how luxuriantly disposed to
+quiet,--after having been tossed, and bruised, and tumbled about, _sans
+ceremonie_, like a bale of goods, or a printer's devil, for many long
+weary days and nights upon the slumberless sea--to be once more cosily
+established in a smiling, elegant little parlour, carpeted, curtained,
+and furnished with every tasteful convenience that a comfort loving,
+home-made bachelor could covet. In such a pleasant sitting-room am I now
+most enviably domesticated, and every thing around me contributes to the
+happiness of my situation. A cheerful coal-fire burns in the grate--(for
+the day is cloudy, misty, drizzly, foggy, and chilly, which is the best
+definition I can give you, as yet, of a wet December's day in
+New-Orleans,)--diffusing an agreeable temperature throughout the room,
+and adding, by contrast with the dark gloomy streets, seen indistinctly
+through the moist glass, to the enjoyment of my comforts. I am now
+seated by my writing-desk at a table, drawn at an agreeable distance
+from the fire-place--and fully convinced that a man never feels so
+comfortably, as when ensconced in a snug parlour on a rainy day.
+
+A statue of dazzling ebony, by name Antoine, to which the slightest look
+or word will give instant animation, stands in the centre of the room,
+contrasting beautifully in colour with the buff paper-hangings and
+crimson curtains. He is a slave--about seventeen years of age, and a
+bright, intelligent, active boy, nevertheless--placed at my disposal as
+_valet_ while I remain here, by the kind attention of my obliging
+hostess, Madame H----. He serves me in a thousand capacities, as
+post-boy, cicerone, &c. and is on the whole, an extremely useful and
+efficient attache.
+
+Our party having safely landed on the Levee, nearly opposite Rue
+Marigny, we commenced our long, yet in anticipation, delightful walk to
+our hotel. We had disembarked about a quarter of a league below the
+cathedral, from the front of which, just after we landed, the loud
+report of the evening gun broke over the city, rattling and
+reverberating through the long massively built streets, like the echoing
+of distant thunder along mountain ravines. On a firm, smooth, gravelled
+walk elevated about four feet, by a gradual ascent from the street--one
+side open to the river, and the other lined with the "Pride of China,"
+or India tree, we pursued our way to Chartres-street, the "Broadway" of
+New-Orleans. The moon shone with uncommon brilliancy, and thousands,
+even in this lower faubourg, were abroad, enjoying the beauty and
+richness of the scene. Now, a trio of lively young Frenchmen would pass
+us, laughing and conversing gayly upon some merry subject, followed by a
+slow moving and stately figure, whose haughty tread, and dark
+_roquelaure_ gathered with classic elegance around his form in graceful
+folds, yet so arranged as to conceal every feature beneath his slouched
+_sombrero_, except a burning, black, penetrating eye,--denoted the
+exiled Spaniard.
+
+We passed on--and soon the lively sounds of the French language, uttered
+by soft voices, were heard nearer and nearer, and the next moment, two
+or three duenna-like old ladies, remarkable for their "embonpoint"
+dimensions, preceded a bevy of fair girls, without that most hideous of
+all excrescences, with which women see fit to disfigure their heads,
+denominated a "bonnet"--their brown, raven or auburn hair floating in
+ringlets behind them.
+
+There was one--a dark-locked girl--a superb creature, over whose head
+and shoulders, secured above her forehead by a brilliant which in the
+clear moon burned like a star, waved the folds of a snow-white veil in
+the gentle breeze, created by her motion as she glided gracefully along.
+She was a Castilian; and the mellow tones of her native land gave
+richness to the light elegance of the French, as she breathed it like
+music from her lips.
+
+As we passed on, the number of promenaders increased, but scarcely a
+lady was now to be seen. Every other gentleman we met was enveloped in a
+cloud, not of bacchanalian, but tobacconalian incense, which gave a
+peculiar atmosphere to the Levee.
+
+Every, or nearly every gentleman carried a sword cane, apparently, and
+occasionally the bright hilt of a Spanish knife, or dirk, would gleam
+for an instant in the moon-beams from the open bosom of its possessor,
+as, with the lowering brow, and active tread of wary suspicion, he moved
+rapidly by us, his roundabout thrown over the left shoulder and secured
+by the sleeves in a knot under the arm, which was thrust into his
+breast, while the other arm was at liberty to attend to his segar, or
+engage in any mischief to which its owner might be inclined. This class
+of men are very numerous here. They are easily distinguished by their
+shabby appearance, language, and foreign way of wearing their apparel.
+In groups--promenading, lounging, and sleeping upon the seats along the
+Levee--we passed several hundred of this _canaille_ of Orleans, before
+we arrived at the "Parade," the public square in front of the cathedral.
+They are mostly Spaniards and Portuguese, though there are among them
+representatives from all the unlucky families which, at the building of
+Babel, were dispersed over the earth. As to their mode and means of
+existence, I have not as yet informed myself; but I venture to presume
+that they resort to no means beneath the dignity of "caballeros!"
+
+After passing the market on our right, a massive colonnade, about two
+hundred and fifty feet in length, we left the Levee, and its endless
+tier of shipping which had bordered one side of our walk all the way,
+and passing under the China-trees, that still preserved their unbroken
+line along the river, we crossed Levee-street, a broad, spacious
+esplanade, running along the front of the main body or block of the
+city, separating it from the Levee, and forming a magnificent
+thoroughfare along the whole extensive river-line. From this high-way
+streets shoot off at right angles, till they terminate in the swamp
+somewhat less than a league back from the river. I have termed
+New-Orleans the crescent city in one of my letters, from its being built
+around the segment of a circle formed by a graceful curve of the river
+at this place. Though the water, or shore-line, is very nearly
+semi-circular, the Levee-street, above mentioned, does not closely
+follow the shore, but is broken into two angles, from which the streets
+diverge as before mentioned. These streets are again intersected by
+others running parallel with the Levee-street, dividing the city into
+squares, except where the perpendicular streets meet the angles, where
+necessarily the "squares" are lessened in breadth at the extremity
+nearest the river, and occasionally form pentagons and parallelograms,
+with _oblique_ sides, if I may so express it.
+
+After crossing Levee-street, we entered Rue St. Pierre, which issues
+from it south of the grand square. This square is an open green,
+surrounded by a lofty iron railing, within which troops of boys, whose
+sports carried my thoughts away to "home, sweet home," were playing,
+shouting and merry making, precisely as we used to do in days long past,
+when the harvest-moon would invite us from our dwellings to the village
+green, where many and many a joyful night we have played till the magic
+voice of our good old Scotch preceptor was heard from the door of his
+little cottage under the elms, "Laads, laads, it's unco time ye were in
+bed, laads," warning us to our sleepy pillows. The front of this
+extensive square was open to the river, bordered with its dark line of
+ships; on each side were blocks of rusty looking brick buildings of
+Spanish and French construction, with projecting balconies, heavy
+cornices, and lofty jalousies or barricaded windows. The lower stories
+of these buildings were occupied by retailers of fancy wares, vintners,
+segar manufacturers, dried fruit sellers, and all the other members of
+the innumerable occupations, to which the volatile, ever ready Frenchman
+can always turn himself and a _sous_ into the bargain. As we passed
+along, these shops were all lighted up, and the happy faces, merry
+songs, and gay dances therein, occasionally contrasted with the shrill
+tone of feminine anger in a foreign tongue, and the loud, fierce, rapid
+voices of men mingling in dispute, added to the novelty and amusement of
+our walk. I enumerated ten, out of seventeen successive shops or
+_cabarets_, upon the shelves of which I could discover nothing but
+myriads of claret and Madeira bottles, tier upon tier to the ceiling;
+and from this fact I came to the conclusion, that some of the worthy
+citizens of New-Orleans must be most unconscionable "wine-bibbers," if
+not "publicans and sinners," as subsequent observation has led me to
+surmise.
+
+On the remaining side of this square stood the cathedral, its dark
+moorish-looking towers flinging their vast shadows far over the water.
+The whole front of the large edifice was thrown into deep shade, so that
+when we approached, it presented one black mingled mass, frowning in
+stern and majestic silence upon the surrounding scene.
+
+Leaving this venerable building at the right, we turned into
+Chartres-street, the second parallel with the Levee, and the most
+fashionable, as well as greatest business street in the city. As we
+proceeded, _cafes_, confectioners, fancy stores, millineries,
+parfumeurs, &c. &c., were passed in rapid succession; each one of them
+presenting something new, and always something to strike the attention
+of strangers, like ourselves, for the first time in the only "foreign"
+city in the United States.
+
+At the corner of one of the streets intersecting Chartres-street--Rue
+St. Louis I believe--we passed a large building, the lofty basement
+story of which was lighted with a glare brighter than that of noon. In
+the back ground, over the heads of two or three hundred loud-talking,
+noisy gentlemen, who were promenading and vehemently gesticulating, in
+all directions, through the spacious room--I discovered a bar, with its
+peculiar dazzling array of glasses and decanters containing
+"spirits"--not of "the vasty deep" certainly, but of whose potent spells
+many were apparently trying the power, by frequent libations. This
+building--of which and its uses more anon--I was informed, was the
+"French" or "New Exchange." After passing Rue Toulouse, the streets
+began to assume a new character; the buildings were loftier and more
+modern--the signs over the doors bore English names, and the
+characteristic arrangements of a northern dry goods store were
+perceived, as we peered in at the now closing doors of many stores by
+which we passed. We had now attained the upper part of Chartres-street,
+which is occupied almost exclusively by retail and wholesale dry goods
+dealers, jewellers, booksellers, &c., from the northern states, and I
+could almost realize that I was taking an evening promenade in Cornhill,
+so great was the resemblance.
+
+As we successively crossed Rues Conti, Bienville and Douane, and looked
+down these long straight avenues, the endless row of lamps, suspended in
+the middle of these streets, as well as in all others in New-Orleans, by
+chains or ropes, extended from house to house across, had a fine and
+brilliant effect, which we delayed for a moment on the flag-stone to
+admire, endeavouring to reach with our eyes the almost invisible
+extremity of this line of flame. Just before we reached the head of
+Chartres-street, near Bienville, in the immediate vicinity of which is
+the boarding house of Madame H----, where we intended to take rooms, our
+way was impeded by a party of gentlemen in violent altercation in
+English and French, who completely blocked up the "trottoir." "Sir,"
+said one of the party--a handsome, resolute-looking young man--in a calm
+deliberate voice, which was heard above every other, and listened to as
+well--"Sir, you have grossly insulted me, and I shall expect from you,
+immediately--before we separate--an acknowledgment, adequate to the
+injury." "Monsieur," replied a young Frenchman whom he had addressed,
+in French, "Monsieur, I never did insult you--a gentleman never insults!
+you have misunderstood me, and refuse to listen to a candid
+explanation." "The explanation you have given sir," reiterated the first
+speaker, "is not sufficient--it is a subterfuge;" here many voices
+mingled in loud confusion, and a renewed and more violent altercation
+ensued which prevented our hearing distinctly; and as we had already
+crossed to the opposite side of the street, having ladies under escort,
+we rapidly passed on our way, but had not gained half a square before
+the clamour increased to an uproar--steel struck steel--one, then
+another pistol was discharged in rapid succession--"guards!" "gens
+d'armes, _gens d'armes_," "guards! guards!" resounded along the streets,
+and we arrived at our hotel, just in time to escape being run down, or
+run through at their option probably, by half a dozen gens d'armes in
+plain blue uniforms, who were rushing with drawn swords in their hands
+to the scene of contest, perfectly well assured in our own minds, that
+we had most certainly arrived at NEW-ORLEANS!
+
+Though affairs of the kind just described are no uncommon thing here,
+and are seldom noticed in the papers of the day--yet the following
+allusion to the event of last evening may not be uninteresting to you,
+and I will therefore copy it, and terminate my letter with the extract.
+
+"An affray occurred last night in the vicinity of Bienville-street, in
+which one young gentleman was severely wounded by the discharge of a
+pistol, and another slightly injured by a dirk. An "_affaire d'honneur_"
+originated from this, and the parties met this morning. Dr. ---- of
+New-York, one of the principals, was mortally wounded by his antagonist
+M. Le---- of this city."
+
+
+
+
+IX.
+
+      Sensations on seeing a city for the first time--Capt. Kidd
+      --Boston--Fresh feelings--An appreciated luxury--A human
+      medley--School for physiognomists--A morning scene in New-
+      Orleans--Canal-street--Levee--French and English stores--
+      Parisian and Louisianian pronunciation--Scenes in the market
+      --Shipping--A disguised rover--Mississippi fleets--Ohio
+      river arks--Slave laws.
+
+
+I know of no sensation so truly delightful and exciting as that
+experienced by a traveller, when he makes his _debut_ in a strange and
+interesting city. These feelings have attended me before, in many other
+and more beautiful places; but when I sallied out the morning after my
+arrival, to survey this "Key of the Great Valley," I enjoyed them again
+with almost as much zest, as when, a novice to cities and castellated
+piles, I first gazed in silent wonder upon the immense dome which crowns
+Beacon Hill, and lingered to survey with a fascinated eye the princely
+edifices that surround it.
+
+I shall ever remember, with the liveliest emotions, my first visit to
+Boston--the first "CITY," (what a charm to a country lad in the
+appellation) I had ever seen. It was a delightful summer's morning,
+when, urged forward by a gentle wind, our little, green-painted,
+coasting packet entered the magnificent harbour, which, broken and
+diversified with its beautiful islands, lay outspread before us like a
+chain of lakes sleeping among hills. With what romantic and youthful
+associations did I then gaze upon the lonely sea-washed monument, as we
+sailed rapidly by it, where the famous pirate, "Nick," murdered his
+mate; and a little farther on, upon a pleasant green island, where the
+bloody "Robert Kidd" buried treasures that no man could number, or
+find!--With what patriotism, almost kindled into a religion, did I gaze
+upon the noble heights of Dorchester as they lifted their twin summits
+to the skies on our left, and upon the proud eminence far to the right,
+where Warren expired and liberty was born!
+
+I well remember with what wild enthusiasm I bounded on shore ere the
+vessel had quite reached it, and with juvenile elasticity, ran, rather
+than walked, up through the hurry and bustle that always attend Long
+Wharf. With what veneration I looked upon the spot, in State-street,
+where the first American blood was shed by British soldiers! With what
+reverence I paced "Old Cornhill"--and with what deep respect I gazed
+upon the venerable "Old South," the scene of many a revolutionary
+incident! The site of the "Liberty Tree"--the "KING'S" Chapel,
+where LIONEL LINCOLN was married--the wharf, from which the tea
+was poured into the dock by the disguised citizens, and a hundred other
+scenes and places of interesting associations were visited, and gave me
+a pleasure that I fear can never so perfectly be felt again. For then,
+my feelings were young, fresh and buoyant, and my curiosity, as in after
+life, had never been glutted and satiated by the varieties and novelties
+of our variegated world. Even the "cannon-ball" embedded in the tower of
+Brattle-street church, was an object of curiosity; the building in which
+Franklin worked when an apprentice, was not passed by, unvisited; and
+the ancient residence of "Job Pray" was gazed upon with a kind of
+superstitious reverence. I do not pretend to compare my present feelings
+with those of that happy period. Although my curiosity may not be so
+eager as then, it is full as persevering; and though I may not
+experience the same lively gratification, in viewing strange and novel
+scenes, that I felt in boyhood, I certainly do as much rational and
+intellectual pleasure; and obtain more valuable and correct information
+than I could possibly gain, were I still guided by the more volatile
+curiosity of youth.
+
+In spite of our fatigue of the preceding evening, and the luxury of a
+soft, firm bed, wherein one could sleep without danger of being capsized
+by a lee-lurch--a blessing we had not enjoyed for many a long and weary
+night--we were up with the sun and prepared for a stroll about the city.
+Our first place of destination was the market-house, a place which in
+almost every commercial city is always worthy the early notice of a
+stranger, as it is a kind of "House of Representatives" of the city to
+which it belongs, where, during the morning, delegates from almost every
+family are found studying the interests of their constituents by
+judicious negotiations for comestibles. If the market at New-Orleans
+represents that city, so truly does New-Orleans represent every other
+city and nation upon earth. I know of none where is congregated so great
+a variety of the human species, of every language and colour. Not only
+natives of the well known European and Asiatic countries are here to be
+met with, but occasionally Persians, Turks, Lascars, Maltese, Indian
+sailors from South America and the Islands of the sea, Hottentots,
+Laplanders, and, for aught I know to the contrary, Symmezonians.
+
+Now should any philanthropic individual, anxious for the advancement of
+the noble science of physiognomy, wish to survey the motley countenances
+of these goodly personages, let him on some bright and sunny morning
+bend his steps toward the market-house; for there, in all their variety
+and shades of colouring they may be seen, and _heard_. If a painting
+could affect the sense of hearing as well as that of sight, this market
+multitude would afford the artist an inimitable original for the
+representation upon his canvass of the "confusion of tongues."
+
+As we sallied from our hotel to commence our first tour of sight seeing,
+the vast city was just waking into life. Our sleepy servants were
+opening the shutters, and up and down the street a hundred of their
+drowsy brethren were at the same enlightening occupation. Black women,
+with huge baskets of rusks, rolls and other appurtenances of the
+breakfast table, were crying, in loud shrill French, their "stock in
+trade," followed by milk-criers, and butter-criers and criers of every
+thing but tears: for they all seemed as merry as the morning, saluting
+each other gayly as they met, "Bo' shoo Mumdsal"--"Moshoo! adieu," &c.
+&c., and shooting their rude shafts of African wit at each other with
+much vivacity and humor.
+
+We turned down Canal-street--the broadest in New-Orleans, and destined
+to be the most magnificent. Its breadth I do not know, correctly, but it
+is certainly one half wider than Broadway opposite the Park.--Through
+its centre runs a double row of young trees, which, when they arrive at
+maturity, will form the finest mall in the United States, unless the
+_esplanade_--a beautiful mall at the south part of the city, should
+excel it.
+
+From the head of Canal-street we entered Levee-street, leaving the
+custom house, a large, plain, yellow stuccoed building upon our right,
+near which is a huge, dark coloured, unshapely pile of brick, originally
+erected for a _Bethel church_ for seamen, but never finished, and seldom
+occupied, except by itinerant showmen, with their wonders. Levee-street
+had already begun to assume a bustling, commerce-like appearance. The
+horse-drays were trundling rapidly by, sometimes four abreast, racing to
+different parts of the Levee for their loads--and upon each was mounted
+a ragged negro, who, as Jehu-like he drove along, standing upright and
+unsupported, resembled "Phaeton in the suds"--rather than "Phaeton the
+god-like."
+
+The stores on our left were all open, and nearly every one of them, for
+the first two squares, was occupied as a clothing or hat store, and kept
+by Americans; that is to say, Anglo Americans as distinguished from the
+Louisianian French, who very properly, and proudly too, assume the
+national appellation, which we of the English tongue have so haughtily
+arrogated to ourselves. As we approached the market, French stores began
+to predominate, till one could readily imagine himself, aided by the
+sound of the French language, French faces and French goods on all
+sides, to be traversing a street in Havre or Marseilles. Though I do not
+pretend to be a critical connoisseur in French, yet I could discover a
+marked and striking difference between the language I heard spoken every
+where and by all classes, in the streets, and the Parisian, or
+trans-Atlantic French. The principal difference seems to be in their
+method of contracting or clipping their words, and consequently varying,
+more or less, the pronunciation of every termination susceptible of
+change. The vowels _o_ and _e_ are more open, and the _a_ is flatter
+than in the genuine French, and often loses altogether its emphatic
+fulness; while _u_, corrupted from its difficult, but peculiarly soft
+sound, is almost universally pronounced as full and plain as _oo_ in
+moon. This difference is of course only in pronunciation; the same
+literature, and consequently the same words and orthography, being
+common both to the creole and European. The sun had already risen, when
+I arrived, after a delightful walk, at the "marche."--This is a fine
+building consisting of a long, lofty roof, supported by rows of columns
+on every side. It is constructed of brick, and stuccoed; and, either by
+intention or an effect of the humid atmosphere of this climate, is of a
+dingy cream colour.
+
+A broad passage runs through the whole length of the structure, each
+side of which is lined with stalls, where some one, of no particular
+colour, presides; and before every pillar, the shining face of a blackee
+may be seen glistening from among his vegetables. As I moved on through
+a dense mass of negroes, mulattoes, and non-descripts of every shade,
+from "sunny hue to sooty," all balancing their baskets skilfully upon
+their heads, my ears were assailed with sounds stranger and more
+complicated than I ever imagined could be rung upon that marvellous
+instrument the human tongue. The "langue des halles"--the true
+"Billingsgate" was not only here perfected but improved upon; the gods
+and goddesses of the London mart might even take lessons from these
+daughters of Afric, who, enthroned upon a keg, or three-legged stool,
+each morning hold their _levee_, and dispense their esculent blessings
+to the famishing citizens. During the half hour I remained in the
+market, I did not see one white person to fifty blacks. It appears that
+here servants do all the marketing, and that gentlemen and ladies do
+not, as in Boston, Philadelphia, and elsewhere, visit the market-places
+themselves, and select their own provision for their tables. The
+market-place in Philadelphia is quite a general resort and promenade for
+early-rising gentlemen, and it is certainly well worth one's while to
+visit it more than once, not only for the gratification of the palate
+and the eye, by the inviting display of epicurean delicacies, but to
+become more particularly acquainted with the general habits and manners
+of the country people, who always constitute the greater portion of the
+multitude at a market. Among them are individuals from every little
+hamlet and village for ten or fifteen miles around the city, and by
+studying these people, a tolerably good idea may be formed by a stranger
+of the manners and customs of the inhabitants, (that is, the farming
+class) of the vicinity.
+
+But here, there is no temptation of the kind to induce one to visit the
+market in the city more than once. He will see nothing to gratify the
+spirit of inquiry or observation, in the ignorant, careless-hearted
+slaves, whose character presents neither variety nor interest. However
+well they may represent their brethren in the city and on the
+neighbouring sugar plantations, they cannot be ranked among the class of
+their fellow-beings denominated citizens, and consequently, are not to
+be estimated by a stranger in judging of this community.
+
+So far as regards the intrinsic importance of this market, it is
+undoubtedly equal to any other in America. Vegetables and fruits of all
+climates are displayed in bountiful profusion in the vegetable stalls,
+while the beef and fish-market is abundantly supplied, though
+necessarily without that endless variety to be found in Atlantic cities.
+
+In front, upon the water, were double lines of market and fish-boats,
+secured to the Levee, forming a small connecting link of the long chain
+of shipping and steamboats that extend for a league in front of the
+city. At the lower part of the town lie generally those ships, which
+having their cargoes on board, have dropped down the river to await
+their turn to be towed to sea. Fronting this station are no stores, but
+several elegant private dwellings, constructed after the combined French
+and Spanish style of architecture, almost embowered in dark, evergreen
+foliage, and surrounded by parterres. The next station above, and
+immediately adjoining this, is usually occupied by vessels, which, just
+arrived, have not yet obtained a berth where they can discharge their
+cargoes; though not unfrequently ships here discharge and receive their
+freight, stretching along some distance up the Levee to the link of
+market-boats just mentioned.
+
+From the market to the vicinity of Bienville-street, lies an extensive
+tier of shipping, often "six deep," discharging and receiving cargo, or
+waiting for freight. The next link of the huge chain is usually occupied
+by Spanish and French coasting vessels,--traders to Mexico, Texas,
+Florida, &c. These are usually polaccas, schooners, and other small
+craft--and particularly black, rakish craft, some of them are in
+appearance. It would require but little exercise of the imagination,
+while surveying these truculent looking clippers, to fancy any one of
+them, clothed in canvass and bounding away upon the broad sea, the
+"_Black flag_" flying aloft, the now gunless deck bristling with five
+eighteens to a side; and her indolent, smoking, dark faced crew
+exchanging their jack-knives for sabres and pistols. There was an
+instance of recent occurrence, where a ship was boarded and plundered by
+a well-armed and strongly manned schooner, in company with which, under
+the peaceful guise of a merchantman she had been towed down the river
+six days previous.
+
+Next to this station (for as you will perceive, the whole Levee is
+divided into _stations_ appropriated to peculiar classes of shipping,)
+commences the range of steamboats, or steamers, as they are usually
+termed here, rivaling in magnitude the extensive line of ships below.
+The appearance of so large a collection of steamboats is truly novel,
+and must always strike a stranger with peculiar interest.
+
+The next station, though it presents a more humble appearance than the
+others, is not the least interesting. Here are congregated the primitive
+navies of Indiana, Ohio, and the adjoining states, manned (I have not
+understood whether they are _officered_ or not) by "real
+Kentucks"--"Buck eyes"--"Hooshers"--and "Snorters." There were about two
+hundred of these craft without masts, consisting of "flat-boats," (which
+resemble, only being much shorter, the "Down East" gundalow, (gondola)
+so common on the rivers of Maine,) and "keel-boats," which are one
+remove from the flat-boat, having some pretensions to a keel; they
+somewhat resemble freighting canal-boats. Besides these are "arks,"
+most appropriately named, their _contents_ having probably some
+influence with their god-fathers in selecting an appellation, and other
+non-descript-craft. These are filled with produce of all kinds, brought
+from the "Upper country," (as the north western states are termed here)
+by the very farmers themselves who have raised it;--also, horses,
+cattle, hogs, poultry, mules, and every other thing raiseable and
+saleable are piled into these huge flats, which an old farmer and half a
+dozen Goliaths of sons can begin and complete in less than a week, from
+the felling of the first tree to the driving of the last pin.
+
+When one of these arks is completed, and "every beast that is good for
+food" by sevens and scores, male and female, and every fowl of the air
+by sevens and fifties, are entered into the ark,--then entereth in the
+old man with his family by "males" only, and the boat is committed to
+the current, and after the space of many days arriveth and resteth at
+this Ararat of all "Up country" Noahs.
+
+These boats, on arriving here, are taken to pieces and sold as lumber,
+while their former owners with well-lined purses return home as deck
+passengers on board steamboats. An immense quantity of whiskey from
+Pittsburg and Cincinnati, besides, is brought down in these boats, and
+not unfrequently, they are crowded with slaves for the southern market.
+
+The late excellent laws relative to the introduction of slaves, however,
+have checked, in a great measure, this traffic here, and the
+Mississippi market at Natchez has consequently become inundated, by
+having poured into it, in addition to its usual stock, the Louisianian
+supply. I understand that the legislature of this rich and enterprising
+state is about to pass a law similar to the one above mentioned, which
+certainly will be incalculably to her advantage.
+
+The line of flats may be considered the last link of the great chain of
+shipping in front of New-Orleans, unless we consider as attached to it a
+kind of dock adjoining, where ships and steamers often lie, either worn
+out or undergoing repairs. From this place to the first station I have
+mentioned, runs along the Levee, fronting the shipping, an uninterrupted
+block of stores, (except where they are intersected by streets,) some of
+which are lofty and elegant, while others are clumsy piles of French and
+Spanish construction, browned and blackened by age.
+
+
+
+
+X.
+
+      First impressions--A hero of the "Three Days"--Children's
+      ball--Life in New-Orleans--A French supper--Omnibuses--
+      Chartres-street at twilight--Calaboose--Guard-house--The
+      vicinage of a theatre--French cafes--Scenes in the interior
+      of a cafe--Dominos--Tobacco-smokers--New-Orleans society.
+
+
+The last three days I have spent in perambulating the city, hearing,
+seeing, and visiting every thing worthy the notice of a Yankee, (and
+consequently an inquisitive) tourist.
+
+As I shall again have occasion to introduce you among the strange and
+motley groups, and interesting scenes of the Levee, I will not now
+resume the thread of my narrative, broken by the conclusion of my last
+letter, but take you at once into the "terra incognita" of this city of
+contrarieties.
+
+The evening of my visit to the market, through the politeness of
+Monsieur D., a young Frenchman who distinguished himself in the great
+"Three Days" at Paris, and to whom I had a letter of introduction, was
+passed amid the gayety and brilliancy of a French assembly-room. The
+building in which this ball was held, is adjacent to the Theatre
+d'Orleans, and devoted, I believe, exclusively to public parties, which
+are held here during the winter months, or more properly, "the season,"
+almost every night. The occasion on which I attended, was one of
+peculiar interest. It was termed the "Children's ball;" and it is given
+at regular intervals throughout the gay months. I have not learned the
+precise object of this ball, or how it is conducted; but these are
+unimportant. I merely wish to introduce to you the dazzling crowd
+gathered there, so that you may form some conception of the manner and
+appearance of the lively citizens of this lively city, who seem disposed
+to remunerate themselves for the funereal and appalling silence of the
+long and gloomy season, when "pestilence walketh abroad at noon-day," by
+giving way to the full current of life and spirits. Adopting, literally,
+"Dum vivimus vivamus," for their motto and their "rule of faith and
+practice," they manage during the winter not only to make up for the
+privations of summer, but to execute about as much dancing, music,
+laughing, and dissipation, as would serve any reasonably disposed,
+staid, and sober citizens, for three or four years, giving them withal
+from January to January for the perpetration thereof.
+
+After taking a light supper at _home_, as I already call my hotel, which
+consisted of claret, macaroni, cranberries, peaches, little plates of
+fresh grapes, several kinds of cakes and other bonbons, spread out upon
+a long polished mahogany table, resembling altogether more the display
+upon a confectioner's counter than the _table d'hote_ of a hotel, in
+company with Monsieur D. I prepared to walk to the scene of the
+evening's amusement. But on gaining the street we observed the
+"omnibus" still at its stand at the intersection of Canal and Chartres
+streets. The driver, already upon his elevated station, with his bugle
+at his lips, was sounding his "signal to make sail," as we should say of
+a ship; and thereupon, being suddenly impressed with the advantages the
+sixteen legs of his team had over our four, in accomplishing the mile
+before us, we without farther reflection, sprang forthwith into the
+invitingly open door at the end of the vehicle, and the next instant
+found ourselves comfortably seated, with about a dozen others, "in
+omnibus."
+
+There are two of these carriages which run from Canal-street through the
+whole length of Chartres-street, by the public square, and along the
+noble esplanade between the Levee and the main body of the city, as far
+as the rail-road; the whole distance being about two miles. The two
+vehicles start simultaneously from either place, every half-hour, and
+consequently change stands with each other alternately throughout the
+day. They commence running early in the morning, and are always on the
+move and crowded with passengers till sun-down. For a "bit"
+(twelve-and-a-half cents) as it is denominated here, one can ride the
+whole distance, or if he choose, but a hundred yards--it is all the same
+to the knight of the whip, who mounted on the box in front, guides his
+"four-in-hand" with the skill of a professor.
+
+As we drove through the long, narrow and dusky street, the wholesale
+mercantile houses were "being" closed, while the retail stores and fancy
+shops, were "being" brilliantly lighted up. Carriages, horsemen, and
+noisy drays, with their noisier draymen, were rapidly moving in all
+directions, while every individual upon the "trottoirs" was hurrying, as
+though some important business of the day had been forgotten, or not yet
+completed. All around presented the peculiar noise and bustle which
+always prevail throughout the streets of a commercial city at the close
+of the day.
+
+Leaving our omniferous vehicle with its omnifarious cargo--among whom,
+fore and aft, the chattering of half a dozen languages had all at once,
+as we rode along, unceasingly assailed our ears--at the head of Rue St.
+Pierre, we proceeded toward Orleans-street. Directly on quitting the
+omnibus we passed the famous Calaboos, or Calabozo, the city prison, so
+celebrated by all seamen who have made the voyage to New-Orleans, and
+who, in their "long yarns" upon the forecastle, in their weary watches,
+fail not to clothe it with every horror of which the Calcutta black
+hole, or the Dartmoor prison--two horrible bugbears to sailors--could
+boast. Its external appearance, however, did not strike me as very
+appealing. It is a long, plain, plastered, blackened building, with
+grated windows, looking gloomy enough, but not more so than a common
+country jail. It is built close upon the street, and had not my
+companion observed as we passed along, "That is the Calaboos," I should
+not probably have remarked it. On the corner above, and fronting the
+"square," is the guard-house, or quarters of the gens d'armes. Several
+of them in their plain blue uniforms and side arms, were lounging about
+the corner as we passed, mingling and conversing with persons in
+citizens' dress. A glance _en passant_ through an open door, disclosed
+an apparently well-filled armory. A few minutes walk through an obscure
+and miserably lighted part of Rues St. Pierre and Royale, brought us
+into Orleans-street, immediately in the vicinity of its theatre. This
+street for some distance on either side of the assembly-room, was
+lighted with the brightness of noon-day; not, indeed, by the solitary
+lamps which, "few and far between," were suspended across the streets,
+but by the glare of reflectors and chandeliers from coffee-houses,
+restaurateurs, confectionaries and fancy stores, which were clustered
+around that nucleus of pleasure, the French theatre.
+
+We were in the French part of the city; but there was no apparent
+indication that we were not really in France. Not an American ("Anglo")
+building was to be seen, in the vicinity, nor scarcely an American face
+or voice discoverable among the numerous, loud-talking, chattering crowd
+of every grade and colour, congregated before the doors of the ball-room
+and cafes adjoining. Before ascending to the magnificent hall where the
+gay dancers were assembled, we repaired to an adjoining cafe, _a la
+mode_ New-Orleans, with a pair of Monsieur D.'s friends--whom we
+encountered in the lobby while negotiating for tickets--to overhaul the
+evening papers, and if need there should be, recruit our spirits. A
+French coffee-house is a place well worth visiting by a stranger, more
+especially a Yankee stranger. I will therefore detain you a little
+longer from the brilliant congregation of beauty and gallantry in the
+assembly room, and introduce you for a moment into this cafe and to its
+inmates. As the coffee houses here do not differ materially from each
+other except in size and richness of decoration, though some of them
+certainly are more fashionable resorts than others, the description of
+one of them will enable you perhaps to form some idea of other similar
+establishments in this city. Though their usual denomination is
+"coffee-house," they have no earthly, whatever may be their spiritual,
+right to such a distinction; it is merely a "_nomme de profession_,"
+assumed, I know not for what object. We entered from the street, after
+passing round a large Venetian screen within the door, into a spacious
+room, lighted by numerous lamps, at the extremity of which stood an
+extensive bar, arranged, in addition to the usual array of glass ware,
+with innumerable French decorations. There were several attendants, some
+of whom spoke English, as one of the requirements of their station. This
+is the case of all _employes_ throughout New-Orleans; nearly every store
+and place of public resort being provided with individuals in attendance
+who speak both languages. Around the room were suspended splendid
+engravings and fine paintings, most of them of the most licentious
+description, and though many of their subjects were classical, of a
+voluptuous and luxurious character. This is French taste however. There
+are suspended in the Exchange in Chartres-street--one of the most
+magnificent and public rooms in the city--paintings which, did they
+occupy an equally conspicuous situation in Merchant's Hall, in Boston,
+would be instantly defaced by the populace.
+
+Around the room, beneath the paintings, were arranged many small tables,
+at most of which three or four individuals were seated, some alternately
+sipping negus and puffing their segars, which are as indispensable
+necessaries to a Creole at all times, as his right hand, eye-brows, and
+left shoulder in conversation. Others were reading newspapers, and
+occasionally assisting their comprehension of abstruse paragraphs, by
+hot "coffee," alias warm punch and slings, with which, on little
+japanned salvers, the active attendants were flying in all directions
+through the spacious room, at the beck and call of customers. The large
+circular bar was surrounded by a score of noisy applicants for the
+liquid treasures which held out to them such strong temptations. Trios,
+couples and units of gentlemen were promenading the well sanded floor,
+talking in loud tones, and gesticulating with the peculiar vehemence and
+rapidity of Frenchmen. Others, and by far the majority, were gathered by
+twos and by fours around the little tables, deeply engaged in playing
+that most intricate, scientific, and mathematical of games termed
+"Domino." This is the most common game resorted to by the Creoles. In
+every cafe and cabaret, from early in the morning, when the luxurious
+mint-julep has thawed out their intellects and expanded their organ of
+combativeness, till late at night, devotees to this childish amusement
+will be found clustered around the tables, with a tonic, often renewed
+and properly sangareed, at their elbows. Enveloped in dense clouds of
+tobacco-smoke issuing from their eternal segars--those inspirers of
+pleasant thoughts,--to whose density, with commendable perseverance and
+apparent good will, all in the cafe contribute,--they manoeuvre their
+little dotted, black and white parallelograms with wonderful pertinacity
+and skill. The whole scene forcibly reminds one, if perchance their fame
+hath reached him, of a brace of couplets from a celebrated poem (a
+choral ode I believe) composed upon the ship-wreck of its author. The
+lines are strikingly applicable to the present subject by merely
+substituting "cafe" for "cabin," and negus-drinkers for "hogsheads and
+barrels."
+
+    "The cafe filled with thickest smoke,
+    Threat'ning every soul to choke:
+    Negus-drinkers crowding in,
+    Make a most infernal din."
+
+There are certainly one hundred coffee-houses in this city--how many
+more, I know not,--and they have, throughout the day, a constant ingress
+and egress of thirsty, time-killing, news-seeking visiters. As custom
+authorises this frequenting of these popular places of resort, the
+citizens of New-Orleans do not, like those of Boston, attach any
+disapprobation to the houses or their visiters. And as there is, in
+New-Orleans, from the renewal of one half of its inhabitants every few
+years, and the constant influx of strangers, strictly speaking no
+exclusive _clique_ or aristocracy, to give a tone to society and
+establish a standard of propriety and respectability, as among the
+worthy Bostonians, one cannot say to another, "It is not genteel to
+resort here--it will injure your reputation to be seen entering this or
+that cafe." The inhabitants have no fixed criterion of what is and what
+is not "respectable," in the northern acceptation of the term. They are
+neither guided nor restrained from following their own inclinations, by
+any laws of long established society, regulating their movements, and
+saying "thus far shalt thou go, and no farther." Consequently, every man
+minds his own affairs, pursues his own business or amusement, and lets
+his neighbours and fellow-citizens do the same; without the fear of the
+moral lash (not law) before his eyes, or expulsion from "caste" for
+doing that "in which his soul delighteth."
+
+Thus you see that society here is a perfect democracy, presenting
+variety and novelty enough to a stranger, who chooses to mingle in it
+freely, and feels a disposition impartially to study character. But a
+truce to this subject for the present, as I wish to introduce you into
+the presence of the fair democrats, whose fame for beauty is so well
+established.
+
+Forcing our way through the press around the door, we entered the lobby,
+from which a broad flight of steps conducted us to a first, and then a
+second platform, through piles of black servants in attendance upon
+their masters and mistresses in the ball-room. At the second landing our
+tickets were received, and we toiled on with difficulty toward the hall
+door, with our hats (which the regulations forbid our wearing even in
+the entrance) elevated in the air, for if placed under the arm they
+would have been flattened in the squeeze to the very respectable
+similitude of a platter, as one unlucky gentleman near me had an
+opportunity of testing, to his full conviction. We were soon drawn
+within the current setting into the ball-room, and were borne onward by
+the human stream over which a score or two of chapeaux waved aloft like
+signals of distress.--But I have already spun out my letter to a
+sufficient length, and lest you should cry "hold, Macduff," I will defer
+your introduction to the _beau monde_ of New-Orleans till my next.
+
+
+
+
+XI.
+
+      Interior of a ball-room--Creole ladies--Infantile dancers
+      --French children--American children--A singular division--
+      New-Orleans ladies--Northern and southern beauty--An
+      agreeable custom--Leave the assembly-room--An olio of
+      languages--The Exchange--Confusion of tongues--Temples of
+      Fortune.
+
+
+I have endeavoured to give you, in my hastily written letters, some
+notion of this city--its streets, buildings, inhabitants and various
+novelties, as they first struck my eye; and I apprehend that I have
+expanded my descriptions, by minuteness of detail, to a greater length
+than was necessary or desirable. But the scenes, individuals, and
+circumstances I meet with in my erranting expeditions through the city,
+are such as would attract, from their novelty, the attention of a
+traveller from the North, and, consequently, a description of them is
+neither unworthy a place in his letters, nor too inconsiderable to
+detain the attention of an inquisitive northern reader, vegetating "at
+home."
+
+On entering, from the dimly lighted lobby, the spacious and brilliant
+hall, illuminated with glittering chandeliers, where the beauty, and
+fashion, and gallantry of this merry city were assembled, I was struck
+with the spirit, life, and splendour of the scene. From alcoves on every
+side of the vast hall, raised a few steps from the floor, and separated
+from the area for dancing by an estrade of slender columns which formed
+a broad promenade quite around the room, bright eyes were glancing over
+the lively scene, rivalling in brilliancy the glittering gems that
+sparkled on brow and bosom.
+
+There were at least five hundred persons in the hall, two-thirds of whom
+were spectators. On double rows of settees arranged around the room, and
+bordering the area, were about one hundred ladies, exclusive of half as
+many, seated in the alcoves. In addition to an almost impenetrable body
+of gentlemen standing in the vicinity of the grand entrance, the
+promenade above alluded to was filled with them, as they lounged along,
+gazing and remarking upon the beautiful faces of the dark-eyed
+Creoles,[4] as their expressive and lovely features were lighted up and
+instinct with the animation of the moment; while others, more enviable,
+were clustered around the alcoves--most of which were literally and
+truly "bowers of beauty,"--gayly conversing with their fair occupants,
+as they gracefully leaned over the balustrade. There were several
+cotillions upon the floor, and the dancers were young masters and
+misses--I beg their pardon--young gentlemen and ladies, from four years
+old and upward--who were bounding away to the lively music, as
+completely happy as innocence and enjoyment could make them. I never
+beheld a more pleasing sight. The carriage of the infantile gentlemen
+was graceful and easy: and they wound through the mazes of the dance
+with an air of manliness and elegance truly French. But the tiny
+demoiselles moved with the lightness and grace of fairies. Their
+diminutive feet, as they glided through the figure, scarcely touched the
+floor, and as they sprang flying away to the livelier measures of the
+band, they were scarcely visible, fluttering indistinctly like humming
+birds' wings. They were dressed with great taste in white frocks, but
+their hair was so arranged as completely to disfigure their heads. Some
+of them, not more than eight years of age, had it dressed in the extreme
+Parisian fashion; and the little martyrs' natural deficiency of long
+hair was amply remedied by that sovereign mender of the defects of
+nature, Monsieur le friseur. The young gentlemen were dressed also in
+the French mode; that is, in elaborately embroidered coatees, and richly
+wrought frills. Their hair, however, was suffered to grow long, and fall
+in graceful waves or ringlets (French children always have beautiful
+hair) upon their shoulders; very much as boys are represented in old
+fashioned prints. This is certainly more becoming than the uncouth
+round-head custom now prevalent in the United States, of clipping the
+hair short, as though boys, like sheep, needed a periodical sheering;
+and it cannot be denied that they both--sheep and boys--are _equally_
+improved in appearance by the operation.
+
+Turning from the bright and happy faces of the children, we met on every
+side the delighted looks of their parents and guardians, or elder
+brothers and sisters, who formed a large portion of the spectators.
+
+As I promenaded arm in arm with Monsieur D. through the room, I noticed
+that at one end of the hall many of the young misses (or their
+guardians) were so unpardonably unfashionable as to suffer their hair to
+float free in wild luxuriance over their necks, waving and undulating at
+every motion like clouds; and many of the cheerful joyous faces I gazed
+upon, forcibly reminded me of those which are to be met with, trudging
+to and from school, every day at home.
+
+"These are the American children," observed my companion; "one half of
+the hall is appropriated to them, the other to the French." "What!" I
+exclaimed, "is there such a spirit of rivalry, jealousy, or prejudice,
+existing between the French and American residents here, that they
+cannot meet even in a ball-room without resorting to so singular a
+method of expressing their uncongeniality of feeling, as that of
+separating themselves from each other by a line of demarcation?"
+
+"By no means," he replied; "far from it. There is, I believe, a
+universal unanimity of feeling among the parties. There is now no other
+distinction, whatever may have existed in former days, either known or
+admitted, than the irremediable one of language. This distinction
+necessarily exists, and I am of opinion ever will exist in this city in
+a greater or less degree. It is this which occasions the separation you
+behold; for, from their ignorance of each other's language,--an
+ignorance too prevalent here, and both inexcusable and remarkable, when
+we consider the advantages mutually enjoyed for their acquisition,--were
+they indiscriminately mingled, the result would be a confusion like that
+of Babel, or a constrained stiffness and reserve, the natural
+consequence of mutual inability to converse,--instead of that regularity
+and cheerful harmony which now reign throughout the crowded hall."
+
+During our promenade through the room I had an opportunity of taking my
+first survey of the gay world of this city, and of viewing at my leisure
+the dark-eyed fascinating Creoles, whose peculiar cast of beauty and
+superb figures are everywhere celebrated. Of the large assembly of
+ladies present,--and there were nearly two hundred, "maid, wife, and
+widow,"--there were many very pretty, if coal-black hair, regular
+features, pale, clear complexions, intelligent faces, lighted up by
+
+    "Eyes that flash and burn
+    Beneath dark arched brows,"
+
+and graceful figures, all of which are characteristic of the Creole,
+come under this definition. There were others who would be called
+"handsome" anywhere, except in the Green Mountains, where a pretty face
+and a red apple, a homely face and a lily, are pretty much synonymous
+terms. A few were eminently beautiful; but there was one figure, which,
+as my eye wandered over the brilliant assembly, fixed it in a moment. I
+soon learned that she was the most celebrated belle of New-Orleans.
+
+I have certainly beheld far more beauty among the same number of ladies
+in a northern ball-room, than I discovered here. Almost every young lady
+in New-England appears pretty, with her rosy cheeks, intelligent face,
+and social manners. The style of beauty at the south is of a more
+passive kind, and excitement is requisite to make it speak to the eye;
+but when the possessor is animated, then the whole face, which but a few
+moments before was passionless and quiet, becomes radiant and
+illuminated with fire and intelligence; and the indolent repose of the
+features becomes broken by fascinating smiles, and brilliant flashes
+from fine dark eyes. Till this change is produced, the face of the
+southern lady appears plain and unattractive; and the promenader through
+a New-Orleans assembly-room, where there was no excitement, if such
+could be the case, would pronounce the majority of the ladies decidedly
+wanting in beauty; but let him approach and enter into conversation with
+one of them, and he would be delighted and surprised at the magical
+transformation,
+
+  "From grave to gay, from apathy to fire."
+
+It is certain, that beauty of features and form is more general in
+New-England; though in grace and expression, the south has the
+superiority.
+
+The difference is usually attributed to climate; but this never has been
+demonstrated, and the cause is still inexplicable. You are probably
+aware that the human form, more particularly the female, is here matured
+three or four years sooner than at the north. At the age of thirteen or
+fourteen, before their minds are properly developed, their habits
+formed, or their passions modified, the features of young girls become
+regular, their complexions delicate, and their figures attain that
+_tournure_ and womanly grace, though "beautifully less" in their
+persons, found only in northern ladies, at the age of seventeen or
+eighteen. The beauty of the latter, though longer in coming to maturity,
+and less perfect, is more permanent and interesting than the infantile
+and bewitching loveliness of the former. In consequence of this early
+approach to womanhood, the duration of their personal loveliness is of
+proportional limitation. Being young ladies at an age that would entitle
+them to the appellation of children in colder climates, they must
+naturally retire much sooner than these from the ranks of beauty. So
+when northern ladies are reigning in the full pride and loveliness of
+their sex--every feature expanding into grace and expression--southern
+ladies, of equal age, are changing their premature beauty for the faded
+hues of premature old age.
+
+The joyous troops of youthful dancers, before ten o'clock arrived,
+surrendered the floor to the gentlemen and ladies, who, till now, had
+been merely spectators of the scene, and being resigned into the hands
+of their nurses and servants in waiting, were carried home, while the
+assembly-room, now converted into a regular ball-room, rang till long
+past the "noon of night" with the enlivening music, confusion, and
+revelry of a complete and crowded rout. Introductions for a partner in
+the dance were not the "order of the day," or rather of the night. A
+gentleman had only to single out some lady among the brilliant
+assemblage, and though a total stranger, solicit the honour of dancing
+with her. Such self-introductions are of course merely _pro tem._, and,
+like fashionable intimacies formed at Saratoga, never after recognised.
+Still, to a stranger, such absence of all formality is peculiarly
+pleasant, and, though every face may be new to him, he has the grateful
+satisfaction of knowing that he can make himself perfectly at home, and
+form innumerable delightful acquaintances for the evening, provided he
+chooses to be sociable, and make the most of the enjoyments around him.
+We left the hall at an early hour on our return to the hotel.
+
+Crowds of mulatto, French and English hack-drivers were besieging the
+door, shouting in bad French, worse Spanish, and broken English--
+
+"Coachee, massas! jontilhomme ridee!" "Caballeros, voulez vous tomer me
+carriage?" "Wooly woo querie to ride sir?" "Fiacre Messieurs!" "By St.
+Patrick jintilmen--honie, mounseers, woulee voo my asy riding
+coach?"--et cetera, mingled with execrations, heavy blows, exchanged in
+the way of friendship, laughter, yells and Indian whoops, composing a
+"concord of sweet sounds" to be fully appreciated only by those who have
+heard similar concerts. We, however, effected our escape from these
+pupils of Jehu, who, ignorant of our country, in a city where all the
+nations of the earth are represented, wisely addressed us in a Babelic
+medley of languages, till we were out of hearing.
+
+Returning, as we came through Rues Royale and St. Pierre, past the
+quarter of the "gens d'armes," we entered Chartres-street, which was now
+nearly deserted. Proceeding through this dark, narrow street on our way
+home, meeting now and then an individual pursuing his hasty and solitary
+way along the echoing pave, we arrived at the new Exchange alluded to in
+my first letter, which served the double purpose of gentlemen's public
+assembly-room and _cafe_. As we entered from the dimly lighted street,
+attracted by the lively crowd dispersed throughout the spacious room,
+our eyes were dazzled by the noon-day brightness shed from innumerable
+chandeliers. Having lounged through the room, filled with smokers,
+newspaper-readers, promenaders, drinkers, &c. &c., till we were stunned
+by the noise of the multitude, who were talking in an endless variety of
+languages, clattering upon the ear at once, and making "confusion worse
+confounded," my polite friend suggested that we should ascend to "the
+rooms," as they are termed. As I wished to see every thing in
+New-Orleans interesting or novel to a northerner, I readily embraced the
+opportunity of an introduction into the penetralium of one of the
+far-famed temples which the goddess of fortune has erected in this, her
+favourite city. We ascended a broad flight of steps, one side of which
+exhibited many lofty double doors, thrown wide open, discovering to our
+view an extensive hall, in which stood several billiard tables,
+surrounded by their "mace and cue" devotees.
+
+But as my letter is now of rather an uncharitable length, I will defer
+till my next, farther description of the deeds and mysteries and
+unhallowed sacrifices connected with these altars of dissipation.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[4] There is at the North a general misconception of the term "CREOLE."
+A friend of mine who had visited Louisiana for his health, after a
+residence of a few months gained the affections of a very lovely girl,
+and married her. He wrote to his uncle in Massachusetts, to whose large
+estate he was heir-expectant, communicating the event, saying that he
+"had just been united to an amiable _Creole_, whom he anticipated the
+pleasure of introducing to him in the Spring." The old gentleman, on
+receiving the letter, stamped, raved, and swore; and on the same evening
+replied to his nephew, saying, that as he had disgraced his family by
+marrying a _Mulatto_, he might remain where he was, as he wished to have
+nothing to do with him, or any of his woolly-headed, yellow skinned
+brats, that might be, henceforward. My friend, however, ventured home,
+and when the old gentleman beheld his lovely bride, he exclaimed, "The
+d--l, nephew, if you call this little angel a _Creole_, what likely
+chaps the real ebony Congos must be in that country." The old gentleman
+is not alone in his conception of a _Creole_. Where there is one
+individual in New England correctly informed, there are one hundred who,
+like him, know no distinction between the terms _Creole_ and _Mulatto_.
+"Creole" is simply a synonym for "native." It has, however, only a
+local, whereas "native" has a general application. To say "He is a
+_Creole_ of Louisiana," is to say "He is a _native_ of Louisiana."
+Contrary to the general opinion at the North, it is seldom applied to
+coloured persons, _Creole_ is sometimes, though not frequently, applied
+to Mississippians; but with the exception of the West-India Islands, it
+is usually confined to Louisiana.
+
+
+
+
+XII.
+
+      The Goddess of fortune--Billiard-rooms--A professor--
+      Hells--A respectable banking company--"Black-legs"--
+      Faro described--Dealers--Bank--A novel mode of franking
+      --Roulette-table--A supper in Orcus--Pockets to let--
+      Dimly lighted streets--Some things not so bad as they
+      are represented.
+
+
+My last letter left me on my way up to "the rooms" over the Exchange,
+where the goddess of fortune sits enthroned, with a "cue" for her
+sceptre, and a card pack for her "magna charta," dispensing alternate
+happiness and misery to the infatuated votaries who crowd in multitudes
+around her altars. Proceeding along the corridor, we left the
+billiard-room on our left, in which no sound was heard (though every
+richly-carved, green-covered table was surrounded by players, while
+numerous spectators reclined on sofas or settees around the room) save
+the sharp _teck! teck!_ of the balls as they came in contact with each
+other, and the rattling occasioned by the "markers" as they noted the
+progress of the game on the large parti-coloured "rosaries" extended
+over the centre of the tables. Lingering here but a moment, we turned an
+angle of the gallery, and at the farther extremity came to a glass door
+curtained on the inner side, so as effectually to prevent all
+observation of the interior. Entering this,--for New-Orleans,--so
+carefully guarded room, we beheld a scene, which, to an uninitiated,
+ultra city-bred northerner, would be both novel and interesting.
+
+The first noise which struck our ears on entering, was the clear ringing
+and clinking of silver, mingled with the technical cries of the
+gamblers, of "all set"--"seven red"--"few cards"--"ten black," &c.--the
+eager exclamations of joy or disappointment by the players, and the
+incessant clattering of the little ivory ball racing its endless round
+in the roulette-table. On one side of the room was a faro-table, and on
+the opposite side a roulette. We approached the former, which was
+thronged on three sides with players, while on the other, toward the
+wall, was seated the dealer of the game--the "gentleman professeur." He
+was a portly, respectable looking, jolly-faced Frenchman, with so little
+of the "black-leg" character stamped upon his physiognomy, that one
+would be far from suspecting him to be a gambler by profession. This is
+a profession difficult to be conceived as the permanent and only pursuit
+of an individual. Your conception of it has probably been taken, as in
+my own case, from the fashionable novels of the day; and perhaps you
+have regarded the character as merely the creation of an author's brain,
+and "the profession" _as_ a profession, existing nowhere in the various
+scenes and circumstances of life.
+
+There are in this city a very great number of these _infernos_,
+(_anglice_ "hells") all of which--with the exception of a few private
+ones, resorted to by those gentlemen who may have some regard for
+appearances--are open from twelve at noon till two in the morning, and
+thronged by all classes, from the lowest blackguard upward. They are
+situated in the most public streets, and in the most conspicuous
+locations. Each house has a bank, as the amount of funds owned by it is
+termed. Some of the houses have on hand twenty thousand dollars in
+specie; and when likely to be hard run by heavy losses, can draw for
+three or four times that amount upon the directors of the "bank
+company." The establishing of one of these banks is effected much as
+that of any other. Shares are sold, and many respectable moneyed men, I
+am informed, become stockholders; though not ambitious, I believe, to
+have their names made public. It is some of the best stock in the city,
+often returning an enormous dividend. They are regularly licensed, and
+pay into the state or city treasury, I forget which, annually more than
+sixty thousand dollars. From six to twelve well-dressed, genteel looking
+individuals, are always to be found in attendance, to whom salaries are
+regularly paid by the directors; and to this salary, and this
+occupation, they look for as permanent a support through life as do
+members of any other profession. It is this class of men who are
+emphatically denominated "gamblers and black legs." The majority of
+them are Frenchmen, though they usually speak both French and English.
+Individuals, allured by the hope of winning, are constantly passing in
+and out of these houses, in "broad noon," with the same indifference to
+what is termed "public opinion," as they would feel were they going into
+or out of a store.
+
+Those places which are situated in the vicinity of Canal-street and
+along the Levee, are generally of a lower order, and thronged with the
+_canaille_ of the city, sailors, Kentucky boatmen, crews of steamboats,
+and poor Gallic gentlemen, in threadbare long-skirted coats and huge
+whiskers. The room we were now visiting was of a somewhat higher order,
+though not exclusively devoted to the more genteel adventurers, as, in
+the very nature of the thing, such an exclusion would be impossible. But
+if unruly persons intrude, and are disposed to be obstreperous, the
+conductors of the rooms, of course, have the power of expelling them at
+pleasure.
+
+Being merely spectators of the game, we managed to obtain an
+advantageous position for viewing it, from a vacant settee placed by the
+side of the portly dealer, who occupied, as his exclusive right, one
+side of the large table. Before him were placed in two rows thirteen
+cards; the odd thirteenth capping the double file, like a militia
+captain at the head of his company, when marching "two by two;" the
+files of cards, however, unlike these martial files of men, are
+_straight_. You will readily see by the number, that these cards
+represent every variety in a pack. The dealer, in addition, has a
+complete pack, fitting closely in a silver box, from which, by the
+action of a sliding lid, he adroitly and accurately turns off the cards
+in dealing. The players, or "betters," as they are termed, place their
+money in various positions as it respects the thirteen cards upon the
+table, putting it either on a single card or between two, as their
+skill, judgment, or fancy may dictate.
+
+As I took my station near the faro-board, the dealer was just shuffling
+the cards for a new game. There were eleven persons clustered around the
+table, and as the game was about to commence, arm after arm was reached
+forth to the prostrate cards, depositing one, five, ten, twenty, or
+fifty dollars, according to the faith or depth of purse of their owners.
+On, around, and between the cards, dollars were strewed singly or in
+piles, while the eyes of every better were fixed immoveably, and, as the
+game went on, with a painful intensity, upon his own deposit, perhaps
+his last stake. When the stakes were all laid, the dealer announced it
+by drawling out in bad English, "all saat." Then, damping his forefinger
+and thumb, by a summary process--not quite so elegant as common--he
+began drawing off the cards in succession. The card taken off does not
+count in the game; the betters all looking to the one turned up in the
+box to read the fate of their stakes. As the cards are turned, the
+winners are paid, the money won by the bank swept off with a long wand
+into the reservoir by the side of the banker, and down go new stakes,
+doubled or lessened according to the success of the winners--again is
+drawled out the mechanical "all set," and the same routine is repeated
+until long past midnight, while the dealers are relieved every two or
+three hours by their fellow-partners in the house.
+
+At the right hand of the dealer, upon the table, is placed what is
+denominated "the bank," though it is merely its representative. This is
+a shallow, yet heavy metal box, about twenty inches long, half as many
+wide, and two deep, with a strong network of wire, so constructed as to
+cover the box like a lid, and be secured by a lock. Casting my eye into
+this receptacle through its latticed top, I noticed several layers of
+U.S. bank notes, from five to five hundred dollars, which were kept down
+by pieces of gold laid upon each pile. About one-fifth of the case was
+parted off from the rest, in which were a very large number of gold
+ounces and rouleaus of guineas. The whole amount contained in it, so far
+as I could judge, was about six thousand dollars, while there was more
+than three thousand dollars in silver, piled openly and most temptingly
+upon the table around the case, in dollars, halves, and quarters, ready
+for immediate use. From policy, five franc pieces are substituted for
+dollars in playing; but the winner of any number of them can, when he
+ceases playing, immediately exchange them at the bank for an equal
+number of dollars. It often happens that players, either from ignorance
+or carelessness, leave the rooms with the five franc pieces; but should
+they, five minutes afterward, discover their neglect and return to
+exchange them, the dealer exclaims with an air of surprise--
+
+"Saar! it will be one mistake, saar. I nevair look you in de fas before,
+saar!" Thousands of dollars are got off annually in this manner, and a
+very pretty interest the banks derive from their ingenious method of
+_franking_.
+
+Having seen some thousands of dollars change hands in the course of an
+hour, and, with feelings somewhat allied to pity, marked the expression
+of despair, darkening the features of the unfortunate loser, as he
+rushed from the room with clenched hands and bent brow, muttering
+indistinctly within his teeth fierce curses upon his luck; and observed,
+with no sympathizing sensations of pleasure, the satisfaction with which
+the winners hugged within their arms their piles of silver, we turned
+from the faro, and crossed the room to the roulette table. These two
+tables are as inseparable as the shark and the pilot fish, being always
+found together in every gambling room, ready to make prey of all who
+come within their influence. At faro there is no betting less than a
+dollar; here, stakes as low as a quarter are permitted. The players were
+more numerous at this table than at the former, and generally less
+genteel in their appearance. The roulette table is a large, long,
+green-covered board or platform, in the centre of which, placed
+horizontally upon a pivot, is a richly plated round mahogany table, or
+wheel, often inlaid with ivory and pearl, and elaborately carved, about
+two feet in diameter, with the bottom closed like an inverted box cover.
+Around this wheel, on the inner border, on alternate little black and
+red squares, are marked numbers as high as thirty-six, with two squares
+additional, in one a single cipher, in the other two ciphers; while on
+the green cloth-covered board, the same numbers are marked in squares.
+The dealer, who occupies one side of the table, with his metal, latticed
+case of bank notes and gold at his right hand, and piles of silver
+before him, sets the wheel revolving rapidly, and adroitly spins into it
+from the end of his thumb, as a boy would snap a marble, an ivory ball,
+one quarter the size of a billiard ball. The betters, at the same
+instant, place their money upon such one of the figures drawn upon the
+cloth as they fancy the most likely to favour them, and intently watch
+the ball as it races round within the revolving wheel. When the wheel
+stops, the ball necessarily rests upon some one of the figures in the
+wheel, and the fortunate player, whose stake is upon the corresponding
+number on the cloth, is immediately paid his winning, while the stakes
+of the losers are coolly transferred by the dealer to the constantly
+accumulating heap before him; again the wheel is set revolving, the
+little ball rattles around it, and purses are again made lighter and the
+bank increased.
+
+As we were about to depart, I noticed in an interior room a table spread
+for nearly a dozen persons, and loaded with all the substantials for a
+hearty supper. The dealers, or conductors of the bank, are almost all
+bachelors, I believe, or ought to be, and keep "hall" accordingly, in
+the same building where lies their theatre of action, in the most
+independent and uproarious style. After the rooms are closed, which is
+at about two in the morning, they retire to their supper table, inviting
+all the betters, both winners and losers, who are present when the
+playing breaks up, to partake with them. The invitations are generally
+accepted; and those poor devils who in the course of the evening have
+been so unfortunate as to have "pockets to let," have at least the
+satisfaction of enjoying a good repast, _gratis_, before they go home
+and hang themselves.[5]
+
+Having satisfied our curiosity with a visit to this notable place, we
+descended into the Exchange, which was now nearly deserted; a few
+gentlemen only were taking their "night caps" at the bar, and here and
+there, through the vast room, a solitary individual was pacing backward
+and forward with echoing footsteps.
+
+Leaving the now deserted hall, which at an earlier hour had resounded
+with the loud and confused murmur of a hundred tongues, and the tramping
+of a busy multitude, we proceeded to our hotel through the silent and
+dimly lighted streets,[6] without being assassinated, robbed, seized by
+the "_gens d'armes_," and locked up in the guard-house, or meeting any
+other adventure or misadventure whatever; whereat we were almost tempted
+to be surprised, remembering the frightful descriptions given by
+veracious letter-writers, of this "terrible city" of New-Orleans.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[5] Exertions have been made from time to time by the citizens of
+Louisiana for the suppression of gambling, but their efforts have until
+recently, been unavailing. During the last session of the legislature of
+Louisiana, however, a bill to suppress gambling-houses in New-Orleans,
+passed both houses, and has become a law. One of the enactments provides
+that the owners or occupants of houses in which gambling is detected,
+are liable to the penalties of the law. For the first offence, a fine of
+from one to five thousand dollars; for the second, from ten to fifteen
+thousand, and confinement in the penitentiary from one to five years, at
+the discretion of the court. Fines are also imposed for playing at any
+public gaming table, or any banking game. The owners of houses where
+gaming tables are kept, are liable for the penalty, if not collected of
+the keeper; unless they are able to show that the crime was committed so
+privately that the owner could not know of it. It also provides for the
+recovery of any sums of money lost by gaming.
+
+To make up the deficiency in the revenue arising from the abolition of
+gaming-houses, a bill has been introduced into the legislature providing
+for the imposition of a tax on all passengers arriving at, or leaving
+New-Orleans, by ships or steamboats.
+
+[6] Since the above paragraph was penned, the huge swinging lamps have
+been superseded by gas lights, which now brilliantly illuminate all the
+principal streets of the city.
+
+
+
+
+XIII.
+
+      A sleepy porter--Cry of fire--Noises in the streets--A wild
+      scene at midnight--A splendid illumination--Steamers wrapped
+      in flames--A river on fire--Firemen--A lively scene--Floating
+      cotton--Boatmen--An ancient Portuguese Charon--A boat race--
+      Pugilists--A hero.
+
+
+At the commendable hour of one in the morning, as was hinted in my last
+letter, we safely arrived at our hotel, and roused the slumbering porter
+from his elysian dreams by the tinkling of a little bell pendant over
+the private door for "single gentlemen,--_belated_;" and ascended
+through dark passages and darker stairways to our rooms, lighted by the
+glimmer of a solitary candle fluttering and flickering by his motion, in
+the fingers of the drowsy "guardian of doors," who preceded us.
+
+We had finished our late supper, and, toasting our bootless feet upon
+the burnished fender, were quietly enjoying the agreeable warmth of the
+glowing coals, and relishing, with that peculiar zest which none but a
+smoker knows, a real Habana,--when we were suddenly startled from our
+enjoyment by the thrilling, fearful cry, of "Fire! fire!" which, heard
+in the silence of midnight, makes a man's heart leap into his throat,
+while he springs from his couch, as if the cry "To arms--to arms!" had
+broken suddenly upon his slumbers. "Fire! fire! fire!" rang in loud
+notes through the long halls and corridors of the spacious hotel,
+startling the affrighted sleepers from their beds, and at the same
+instant a fierce, red glare flashed through our curtained windows. The
+alarm was borne loudly and wildly along the streets--the rapid
+clattering of footsteps, as some individual hastened by to the scene of
+the disaster, followed by another, and another, was in a few seconds
+succeeded by the loud, confused, and hurried tramping of many men, as
+they rushed along shouting with hoarse voices the quick note of alarm.
+We had already sprung to the balcony upon which the window of our room
+opened. For a moment our eyes were dazzled by the fearful splendour of
+the scene which burst upon us. The whole street,--lofty buildings,
+towers, and cupolas--reflected a wild, red glare, flashed upon them from
+a stupendous body of flame, as it rushed and roared, and flung itself
+toward the skies, which, black, lowering, and gloomy, hung threateningly
+above. Two of those mammoth steamers which float upon the mighty
+Mississippi, were, with nearly two thousand bales of cotton on board,
+wrapped in sheets of fire. They lay directly at the foot of
+Canal-street; and as the flames shot now and then high in the air,
+leaping from their decks as though instinct with life, this broad street
+to its remotest extremity in the distant forests, became lurid with a
+fitful reddish glare, which disclosed every object with the clearness of
+day. The balconies, galleries, and windows, were filled with interested
+spectators; and every street and avenue poured forth its hundreds, who
+thundered by toward the scene of conflagration. I have a mania for going
+to fires. I love their blood-stirring excitement; and, as in an
+engagement, the greater the tumult and danger, the greater is the
+enjoyment. I do not, however, carry my "incendiary passion" so far as to
+be vexed because an alarm that turns me out of a warm bed proves to be
+only a "false alarm," but when a fire does come in my way, I heartily
+enjoy the excitement necessarily attendant upon the exertions made to
+extinguish it. You will not be surprised, then, that although I had not
+had "sleep to my eyes, nor slumber to my eyelids," I should be unwilling
+to remain a passive and distant spectator of a scene so full of
+interest. Our hotel was a quarter of a mile from the fire, and yet the
+heat was sensibly felt at that distance. Leaving my companion to take
+his rest, I descended to the street, and falling into the tumultuous
+current setting toward the burning vessels, a few moments brought me to
+the spacious platform, or wharf, in front of the Levee, which was
+crowded with human beings, gazing passively upon the fire; while the
+ruddy glare reflected from their faces, gave them the appearance, so far
+as complexion was concerned, of so many red men of the forest. As I
+elbowed my way through this dense mass of people, who were shivering,
+notwithstanding their proximity to the fire, in the chilly morning air,
+with one side half roasted, and the other half chilled--the
+ejaculations--
+
+"Sacre diable!" "Carramba!" "Marie, mon Dieu!" "Mine Got vat a fire!"
+"By dad, an its mighty waarm"--"Well now the way that ar' cotton goes,
+is a sin to Crockett!"--fell upon the ear, with a hundred more, in
+almost every _patois_ and dialect, whereof the chronicles of grammar
+have made light or honourable mention.
+
+As I gained the front of this mass of human beings, that activity which
+most men possess, who are not modelled after "fat Jack," enabled me to
+gain an elevation whence I had an unobstructed view of the whole scene
+of conflagration. The steamers were lying side by side at the Levee, and
+one of them was enveloped in wreaths of flame, bursting from a thousand
+cotton bales, which were piled, tier above tier, upon her decks. The
+inside boat, though having no cotton on board, was rapidly consuming, as
+the huge streams of fire lapped and twined around her. The night was
+perfectly calm, but a strong whirlwind had been created by the action of
+the heat upon the atmosphere, and now and then it swept down in its
+invisible power, with the "noise of a rushing mighty wind," and as the
+huge serpentine flames darted upward, the solid cotton bales would be
+borne round the tremendous vortex like feathers, and then--hurled away
+into the air, blazing like giant meteors--would descend heavily and
+rapidly into the dark bosom of the river. The next moment they would
+rise and float upon the surface, black unshapely masses of tinder. As
+tier after tier, bursting with fire, fell in upon the burning decks, the
+sweltering flames, for a moment smothered, preceded by a volcanic
+discharge of ashes, which fell in showers upon the gaping spectators,
+would break from their confinement, and darting upward with
+multitudinous large wads of cotton, shoot them away through the air,
+filling the sky for a moment with a host of flaming balls. Some of them
+were borne a great distance through the air, and falling lightly upon
+the surface of the water, floated, from their buoyancy, a long time
+unextinguished. The river became studded with fire, and as far as the
+eye could reach below the city, it presented one of the most
+magnificent, yet awful spectacles, I had ever beheld or imagined.
+Literally spangled with flame, those burning fragments in the distance
+being diminished to specks of light, it had the appearance, though far
+more dazzling and brilliant, of the starry firmament. There were but two
+miserable engines to play with this gambolling monster, which, one
+moment lifting itself to a great height in the air, in huge spiral
+wreaths, like some immense snake, at the next would contract itself
+within its glowing furnace, or coil and dart along the decks like troops
+of fiery serpents, and with the roaring noise of a volcano.
+
+There are but few "fires" in New-Orleans, compared with the great number
+that annually occur in northern cities. This is owing, not wholly to the
+universally prevalent style of building with brick, but in a great
+measure to the very few fires requisite for a dwelling house in a
+climate so warm as this. Consequently there is much less interest taken
+by the citizens in providing against accidents of this kind, than would
+be felt were conflagrations more frequent. The miserably manned engines
+now acting at intervals upon the fire, presented a very true
+exemplification of the general apathy. To a New-Yorker or Bostonian,
+accustomed to the activity, energy, and military precision of their
+deservedly celebrated fire companies, the mob-like disorder of those who
+pretended to work the engines at this fire, would create a smile, and
+suggest something like the idea of a caricature.
+
+After an hour's toil by the undisciplined firemen, assisted by those who
+felt disposed to aid in extinguishing the flame, the fire was got under,
+but not before one of the boats was wholly consumed, with its valuable
+cargo. The inner boat was saved from total destruction by the great
+exertions of some few individuals, "who fought on their own hook."
+
+The next morning I visited the scene of the disaster. Thousands were
+gathered around, looking as steadily and curiously upon the smouldering
+ruins as if they had possessed some very peculiar and interesting
+attraction. The river presented a most lively scene. A hundred skiffs,
+wherries, punts, dug-outs, and other non-descript craft, with equally
+euphonic denominations, were darting about in all directions, each
+propelled by one or two individuals, who were gathering up the half
+saturated masses of cotton, that whitened the surface of the river as
+far as the eye could reach. Several unlucky wights, in their ambitious
+eagerness to obtain the largest piles of this "snow-drift," would lose
+their equilibrium, and tumble headlong with their wealth of cotton into
+the water. None of them, however, were drowned, their mishaps rather
+exciting the merriment of their companions and of the crowds of amused
+spectators on shore, than creating any apprehensions for their safety.
+
+The misfortune of one shrivelled-up old Portuguese, who had been very
+active in securing a due proportion of the cotton, occasioned no little
+laughter among the crowd on the Levee. After much fighting, quarreling,
+and snarling, he had filled his little boat so completely, that his
+thin, black, hatchet-face, could only be seen protruding above the snowy
+mass in which he was imbedded. Seizing his oars in his long bony hands,
+he began to pull for the shore with his prize, when a light wreath of
+blue smoke rose from the cotton and curled very ominously over his head.
+All unconscious, he rowed on, and before he gained the shore, the fire
+burst in a dozen places at once from his combustible cargo, and
+instantly enveloped the little man and his boat in a bright sheet of
+flame; with a terrific yell he threw himself into the water, and in a
+few moments emerged close by the Levee, where he was picked up, with no
+other personal detriment than the loss of the little forelock of gray
+hair which time had charitably spared him.
+
+In one instance, two skiffs, with a single individual in each, attracted
+attention by racing for a large tempting float of cotton, which drifted
+along at some distance in the stream. Shouts of encouragement rose from
+the multitude as they watched the competitors, with the interest similar
+to that felt upon a race-course. The light boats flew over the water
+like arrows on the wing. They arrived at the same instant at the object
+of contest, one on either side, and the occupants, seizing it
+simultaneously, and without checking the speed of their boats, bore the
+mass of cotton through the water between them, ploughing and tossing the
+spray in showers over their heads. Gradually the boats stopped, and a
+contest of another kind began. Neither would resign his prize. After
+they had remained leaning over the sides of their boats for a moment,
+grasping it and fiercely eyeing each other, some words were apparently
+exchanged between them, for they mutually released their hold upon the
+cotton, brought their boats together and secured them; then, stripping
+off their roundabouts, placed themselves on the thwarts of their boats
+in a pugilistic attitude, and prepared to decide the ownership of the
+prize, by an appeal to the "law of _arms_." The other cotton-hunters
+desisted from their employment, and seizing their oars, pulled with
+shouts to the scene of contest. Before they reached it, the case had
+been decided, and the foremost of the approaching boatmen had the merit
+of picking from the water the conquered hero, who, after gallantly
+giving and taking a dozen fine rounds, received an unlucky "settler"
+under the left ear, whereupon he tumbled over the side, and was fast
+sinking, when he was taken out, amid the shouts of the gratified
+spectators, with his hot blood effectually cooled, though not otherwise
+injured. The more fortunate victor deliberately lifted the prize into
+the boat, and fixing a portion on the extremity of an oar, set it
+upright, and rowed to shore amid the cheers and congratulations of his
+fellows, who now assembling in a fleet around him, escorted him in
+triumph.
+
+
+
+
+XIV.
+
+      Canal-street--Octagonal church--Government house--Future
+      prospects of New-Orleans--Roman chapel--Mass for the dead
+      --Interior of the chapel--Mourners--Funeral--Cemeteries--
+      Neglect of the dead--English and American grave yards--
+      Regard of European nations for their dead--Roman Catholic
+      cemetery in New-Orleans--Funeral procession--Tombs--Burying
+      in water--Protestant grave-yard.
+
+
+Canal-street, as I have in a former letter observed, with its triple row
+of young sycamores, extending throughout the whole length, is one of the
+most spacious, and destined at no distant period, to be one of the first
+and handsomest streets in the city. Every building in the street is of
+modern construction, and some blocks of its brick edifices will vie in
+tasteful elegance with the boasted granite piles of Boston.
+
+Yesterday, after a late dinner, the afternoon being very fine, I left my
+hotel, and without any definite object in view, strolled up this street.
+The first object which struck me as worthy of notice was a small brick
+octagon church, enclosed by a white paling, on the corner of
+Bourbon-street. The entrance was overgrown with long grass, and the
+footsteps of a worshipper seemed not to have pressed its threshold for
+many an unheeded Sunday. In its lonely and neglected appearance, there
+was a silent but forcible comment upon that censurable neglect of the
+Sabbath, which, it has been said, prevails too generally among the
+citizens of New-Orleans. In front of this church, which is owned, I
+believe, by the Episcopalians, stands a white marble monument,
+surmounted by an urn, erected in memory of the late Governor Claiborne.
+With this solitary exception, there are no public monuments in this
+city. For a city so ancient, (that is, with reference to cis-Atlantic
+antiquity) as New-Orleans, and so French in its tastes and habits, I am
+surprised at this; as the French themselves have as great a mania for
+triumphal arches, statues, and public monuments, as had the ancient
+Romans. But this fancy they seem not to have imported among their other
+nationalities; or, perhaps, they have not found occasions for its
+frequent exercise.
+
+The government house, situated diagonally opposite to the church, and
+retired from the street, next attracted my attention. It was formerly a
+hospital, but its lofty and spacious rooms are now convened into public
+offices. Its snow-white front, though plain, is very imposing; and the
+whole structure, with its handsome, detached wings, and large green,
+thickly covered with shrubbery in front, luxuriant with orange and lemon
+trees, presents, decidedly, one of the finest views to be met with in
+the city. These two buildings, with the exception of some elegant
+private residences, are all that are worth remarking in this street,
+which, less than a mile from the river, terminates in the swampy
+commons, every where surrounding New-Orleans, except on the river side.
+
+Not far beyond the government house, the Mall, which ornaments the
+centre of Canal-street, forms a right angle, and extends down
+Rampart-street to Esplanade-street, and there making another right
+angle, extends back again to the river, nearly surrounding the "city
+proper" with a triple row of sycamores, which, in the course of a
+quarter of a century, for grandeur, beauty, and convenience, will be
+without a parallel. The city of New-Orleans is planned on a magnificent
+scale, happily and judiciously combining ornament and convenience. Let
+the same spirit which foresaw and provided for its present greatness,
+animate those who will hereafter direct its public improvements, and
+New-Orleans, in spite of its bug-bear character and its unhealthy
+location, will eventually be the handsomest, if not the largest city in
+the United States.
+
+Following the turning of the Mall, I entered Rampart-street, which, with
+its French and Spanish buildings, presented quite a contrast to the
+New-England-like appearance of that I had just quitted. There are some
+fine buildings at the entrance of this street, which is not less broad
+than the former. On the right I passed a small edifice, much resembling
+a Methodist meeting-house, such as are seen in northern villages, which
+a passing Frenchman, lank and tall, in answer to my inquiry, informed me
+was "L'eglise Evangelique, Monsieur," with a touch of his chapeau, and
+a wondrous evolution of his attenuated person. This little church was as
+neglected, and apparently unvisited as its episcopalian neighbour. A
+decayed, once-white paling surrounded it; but the narrow gate, in front
+of the edifice, probably constructed to be opened and shut by devout
+hands, was now secured by a nail, whose red coat of rust indicated long
+and peaceable possession of its present station over the latch. Comment
+again, thought I, as I passed on down the street, to where I had
+observed, not far distant, a crowd gathered around the door of a large
+white-stuccoed building, burthened by a clumsy hunch-backed kind of
+tower, surmounted by a huge wooden cross.
+
+On approaching nearer, I discovered many carriages extended in a long
+line up the street, and a hearse with tall black plumes, before the door
+of the building, which, I was informed, was the Catholic chapel. Passing
+through the crowd around the entrance, I gained the portico, where I had
+a full view of the interior, and the ceremony then in progress. In the
+centre of the chapel, in which was neither pew nor seat, elevated upon a
+high frame or altar, over which was thrown a black velvet pall, was
+placed a coffin, covered also with black velvet. A dozen huge wax
+candles, nearly as long and as large as a ship's royal-mast, standing in
+candlesticks five feet high, burned around the corpse, mingled with
+innumerable candles of the ordinary size, which were thickly sprinkled
+among them, like lesser stars, amid the twilight gloom of the chapel.
+The mourners formed a lane from the altar to the door, each holding a
+long, unlighted, wax taper, tipped at the larger end with red, and
+ornamented with fanciful paper cuttings. Around the door, and along the
+sides of the chapel, stood casual spectators, strangers, and negro
+servants without number. As I entered, several priests and singing-boys,
+in the black and white robes of their order, were chanting the service
+for the dead. The effect was solemn and impressive. In a few moments the
+ceremony was completed, and four gentlemen, dressed in deep mourning,
+each with a long white scarf, extending from one shoulder across the
+breast, and nearly to the feet, advanced, and taking the coffin from its
+station, bore it through the line of mourners, who fell in, two and two
+behind them, to the hearse, which immediately moved on to the grave-yard
+with its burthen, followed by the carriages, as in succession they drove
+up to the chapel, and received the mourners. The last carriage had not
+left the door, when a man, followed by two little girls, entered from
+the back of the chapel, and commenced extinguishing the lights:--he,
+with an extinguisher, much resembling in size and shape an ordinary
+funnel, affixed to the extremity of a rod ten feet long, attacking the
+larger ones, while his youthful coadjutors operated with the forefinger
+and thumb upon the others. In a few moments every light, except two or
+three, was extinguished, and the "Chapel of the Dead" became silent and
+deserted.
+
+To this chapel the Roman Catholic dead are usually brought before
+burial, to receive the last holy office, which, saving the rite of
+sepulture, the living can perform for the dead. These chapels are the
+last resting-places of their bodies, before they are consigned for ever
+to the repose of the grave. To every Catholic then, among all temples of
+worship, these chapels--his _last home_ among the dwelling-places of
+men--must be objects of peculiar sanctity and veneration.
+
+Burial-grounds, even in the humblest villages, are always interesting to
+a stranger. They are marble chronicles of the past; where, after
+studying the lively characters around him, he can retire, and over a
+page that knows no flattery, hold communion with the dead.
+
+The proposition that "care for the dead keeps pace with civilization"
+is, generally, true.--The more refined and cultivated are a people, the
+more attention they pay to the performance of the last offices for the
+departed. The citizens of the United States will not certainly
+acknowledge themselves second to any nation in point of refinement. But
+look at their cemeteries. Most of them crown some bleak hill, or occupy
+the ill-fenced corners of some barren and treeless common, overrun by
+cattle, whose preference for the long luxuriant grass, suffered to grow
+there by a kind of prescriptive right, is matter of general observation.
+Our neglect of the dead is both a reproach and a proverb. Look at
+England; every village there has its rural burying-ground, which on
+Sundays is filled with the well-dressed citizens and villagers, who walk
+among the green graves of parents, children, or friends, deriving from
+their reflections the most solemn and impressive lesson the human heart
+can learn. In America, on the contrary, the footsteps of a solitary
+individual, the slow and heavy tramp of a funeral procession, or the
+sacrilegious intrusion of idle school-boys--who approach a grave but to
+deface its marble--are the only disturbers of the graveyard's
+loneliness.
+
+But even England is behind France. There every tomb-stone is crowned
+with a chaplet of roses, and every grave is a variegated bed of flowers.
+Spain, dark and gloomy Spain! is behind all. Whoever has rambled among
+her gloomy cemeteries, or gazed with feelings of disgust and horror,
+upon the pyramids of human sculls, bleaching in those Golgothas, the
+_Campos santos_ of Monte Video, Buenos Ayres, and South America
+generally, need not be reminded how little they venerate what once
+moved--the image of God! The Italians singularly unite the indifference
+of the Spaniards with the affection of the French in their respect for
+the dead. Compare the "dead vaults" of Italia's cities, with the
+pleasant cemeteries in her green vales! Without individualising the
+European nations, I will advert to the Turks, who, though not the most
+refined, are a sensitive and reflecting people, and pay great honours to
+their departed friends, as the mighty "City of the Dead" which
+encompasses Constantinople evinces. But the cause of this respect is to
+be traced, rather to their Moslem creed, than to the intellectual
+character, or refinement of the people.
+
+To what is to be attributed the universal indifference of Americans to
+honouring the dead, by those little mementos and marks of affection and
+respect which are interwoven with the very religion of other countries?
+There are not fifty burial-grounds throughout the whole extent of the
+Union, which can be termed beautiful, rural, or even neat. The
+Bostonians, in the possession of their lonely and romantic Mount Auburn,
+have redeemed their character from the almost universal charge of apathy
+and indifference manifested by their fellow countrymen upon this
+subject. Next to Mount Auburn, the cemetery in New-Haven is the most
+beautifully picturesque of any in this country. In Maine there is but
+one, the burial-place in Brunswick, deserving of notice. Its snow-white
+monuments glance here and there in bold relief among the dark melancholy
+pines which overshadow it, casting a funereal gloom among its deep
+recesses, particularly appropriate to the sacred character of the spot.
+
+I intended to devote this letter to a description of my visit to the
+Roman Catholic burying-ground of this city, the contemplation of which
+has given occasion to the preceding remarks, and from which I have just
+returned; but I have rambled so far and so long in my digression, that I
+shall have scarcely time or room to express all I intended in this
+sheet. But that I need not encroach with the subject upon my next, I
+will complete my remarks here, even at the risk of subjecting myself
+to--with _me_--the unusual charge of _brevity_.
+
+Leaving the chapel, I followed the procession which I have described,
+for at least three quarters of a mile down a long street or road at
+right angles with Rampart-street, to the place of interment. The priests
+and boys, who in their black and white robes had performed the service
+for the dead, leaving the chapel by a private door in the rear of the
+building, made their appearance in the street leading to the cemetery,
+as the funeral train passed down, each with a black mitred cap upon his
+head, and there forming into a procession upon the side walk, they moved
+off in a course opposite to the one taken by the funeral train, and soon
+disappeared in the direction of the cathedral. Two priests, however,
+remained with the procession, and with it, after passing on the left
+hand the "old Catholic cemetery," which being full, to repletion is
+closed and sealed for the "Great Day," arrived at the new burial-place.
+Here the mourners alighted from their carriages, and proceeded on foot
+to the tomb. The priests, bare-headed and solemn, were the last who
+entered, except myself and a few other strangers attracted by curiosity.
+
+This cemetery is quite out of the city; there being no dwelling or
+enclosure of any kind beyond it. On approaching it, the front on the
+street presents the appearance of a lofty brick wall of very great
+length, with a spacious gateway in the centre. This gateway is about ten
+feet deep; and one passing through it, would imagine the wall of the
+same solid thickness. This however is only apparent. The wall which
+surrounds, or is to surround the four sides of the burial-ground, (for
+it is yet uncompleted,) is about twelve feet in height, and ten in
+thickness. The external appearance on the street is similar to that of
+any other high wall, while to a beholder within, the cemetery exhibits
+three stories of oven-like tombs, constructed _in_ the wall, and
+extending on every side of the grave-yard. Each of these tombs is
+designed to admit only a single coffin, which is enclosed in the vault
+with masonry, and designated by a small marble slab fastened in the face
+of the wall at the head of the coffin, stating the name, age, and sex of
+the deceased. By a casual estimate I judged there were about eighteen
+hundred apertures in this vast pile of tombs. This method, resorted to
+here from necessity, on account of the nature of the soil, might serve
+as a hint to city land-economists.
+
+When I entered the gateway, I was struck with surprise and admiration.
+Though destitute of trees, the cemetery is certainly more deserving,
+from its peculiarly novel and unique appearance, of the attention of
+strangers, than (with the exception of that at New-Haven, and Mount
+Auburn,) any other in the United States. From the entrance to the
+opposite side through the centre of the grave-yard, a broad avenue or
+street extends nearly an eighth of a mile in length; and on either side
+of this are innumerable isolated tombs, of all sizes, shapes, and
+descriptions, built above ground. The idea of a Lilliputian city was at
+first suggested to my mind on looking down this extensive avenue. The
+tombs in their various and fantastic styles of architecture--if I may
+apply the term to these tiny edifices--resembled cathedrals with towers,
+Moorish dwellings, temples, chapels, palaces, _mosques_--substituting
+the cross for the crescent--and structures of almost every kind. The
+idea was ludicrous enough; but as I passed down the avenue, I could not
+but indulge the fancy that I was striding down the Broadway of the
+capital of the Lilliputians. I mention this, not irreverently, but to
+give you the best idea I can of the cemetery, from my own impressions.
+Many of the tombs were constructed like, and several were, indeed,
+miniature Grecian temples; while others resembled French, or Spanish
+edifices, like those found in "old Castile." Many of them, otherwise
+plain, were surmounted by a tower supporting a cross. All were perfectly
+white, arranged with the most perfect regularity, and distant little
+more than a foot from each other. At the distance of every ten rods the
+main avenue was intersected by others of less width, crossing it at
+right angles, down which tombs were ranged in the same novel and regular
+manner. The whole cemetery was divided into squares, formed by these
+narrow streets intersecting the principal avenue. It was in reality a
+"City of the Dead." But it was a city composed of miniature palaces, and
+still more diminutive villas.
+
+The procession, after passing two-thirds of the way up the spacious
+walk, turned down one of the narrower alleys, where a new tomb, built on
+a line with the others, gaped wide to receive its destined inmate. The
+procession stopped. The coffin was let down from the shoulders of the
+bearers, and rolled on wooden cylinders into the tomb. The mourners
+silently gathered around; every head was bared; and amid the deep
+silence that succeeded, the calm, clear, melancholy voice of the priest
+suddenly swelled upon the still evening air, in the plaintive chant of
+the last service for the dead. "Requiescat in pace!" was slowly chanted
+by the priest,--repeated in subdued voices by the mourners, and echoing
+among the tombs, died away in the remotest recesses of the cemetery.
+
+The dead was surrendered to the companionship of the dead--the priest
+and mourners moved slowly away from the spot, and the silence of the
+still evening was only broken by the clinking of the careless mason, as
+he proceeded to wall up the aperture in the tomb.
+
+As night was fast approaching, I hastened to leave the place; and,
+taking a shorter route than by the principal avenue, I came suddenly
+upon a desolate area, without a tomb to relieve its dank and muddy
+surface, dotted with countless mounds, where the bones of the moneyless,
+friendless stranger lay buried. There was no stone to record their names
+or country. Fragments of coffins were scattered around, and new-made
+graves, half filled with water, yawned on every side awaiting their
+unknown occupants; who, perchance, may now be "laying up store for many
+years" of anticipated happiness. Such is the nature of the soil here,
+that it is impossible to dig two feet below the surface without coming
+to water. The whole land seems to be only a thin crust of earth, of not
+more than three feet in thickness, floating upon the surface of the
+water. Consequently, every grave will have two feet or more of water in
+it, and when a coffin is placed therein, some of the assistants have to
+stand upon it, and keep it down till the grave is re-filled with the mud
+which was originally thrown from it, or it would float. The citizens,
+therefore, having a very natural repugnance to being drowned, after
+having died a natural death upon their beds, choose to have their last
+resting-place a dry one; and hence the great number of tombs, and the
+peculiar features of this burial-place.
+
+Returning, I glanced into the old Catholic cemetery, in the rear of the
+chapel before alluded to. It was crowded with tombs, though without
+displaying the systematic arrangement observed in the one I had just
+left. There is another burying-place, in the upper faubourg, called the
+Protestant cemetery. Here, as its appellation indicates, are buried all
+who are not of "Holy Church." There are in it some fine monuments, and
+many familiar names are recorded upon the tomb-stones. Here moulder the
+remains of thousands, who, leaving their distant homes, buoyant with all
+the hopes and visions of youth, have been suddenly cut down under a
+foreign sun, and in the spring time of life. When present enjoyment
+seemed prophetic of future happiness, they have found here--a stranger's
+unmarbled grave! A northerner cannot visit this cemetery, and read the
+familiar names of the multitudes who have ended their lives in this
+pestilential climate, without experiencing emotions of the most
+affecting nature. Here the most promising of our northern young men
+have found an untimely grave: and, as she long has been, so New-Orleans
+continues, and will long continue to be, the charnel-house of the pride
+and nobleness of New-England.
+
+
+
+
+XV.
+
+      An old friend--Variety in the styles of building--Love for
+      flowers--The basin--Congo square--The African bon-ton of
+      New-Orleans--City canals--Effects of the cholera--Barracks
+      --Guard-houses--The ancient convent of the Ursulines--The
+      school for boys--A venerable edifice--Principal--Recitations
+      --Mode of instruction--Primary department--Infantry tactics
+      --Education in general in New-Orleans.
+
+
+A quondam fellow-student, who has been some months a resident of this
+city, surprised and gratified me this morning with a call. With what
+strong--more than brotherly affection, we grasp the hand of an old
+friend and fellow-toiler in academic groves! No two men ever meet like
+old classmates a year from college!
+
+After exchanging congratulations, he kindly offered to devote the day to
+the gratification of my curiosity, and accompany me to all those places
+invested with interest and novelty in the eye of a stranger, which I had
+not yet visited.
+
+On my replying in the negative to his inquiry, "If I had visited the
+rail-way?" we decided on making that the first object of our attention.
+Though more than a mile distant, we concluded, as the morning was
+uncommonly fine, to proceed thither on foot, that we might, on the way,
+visit the venerable convent of the Ursulines, the old Spanish barracks,
+and one or two other places of minor interest.
+
+Sallying from our hotel, we crossed to the head of Chartres-street, and
+threaded our way among the busy multitude, who, moving in all
+directions, on business or pleasure, thronged its well-paved side-walks.
+On both sides of the way, for several squares, the buildings were
+chiefly occupied by wholesale and retail dry goods dealers, who are
+mostly northerners; so that a Yankee stranger feels himself quite at
+home among them; but before he reaches the end of the long, narrow
+street, he might imagine himself again a stranger, in a city of France.
+The variety of the streets, here, is almost as great as the diversity of
+character among the people. New-Orleans seems to have been built by a
+universal subscription, to which every European nation has contributed a
+street, as it certainly has citizens. From one, which to a Bostonian
+looks like an old acquaintance, you turn suddenly into another that
+reminds you of Marseilles. Here a street lined with long, narrow, grated
+windows, in dingy, massive buildings, surrounded by Moorish turrets,
+urns, grotesque ornaments of grayish stone and motley arabesque, would
+bring back to the exiled Castilian the memory of his beloved Madrid. In
+traversing the next, a Parisian might forget that the broad Atlantic
+rolled between him and the boasted city of his nativity. Here is one
+that seems to have been transplanted from the very midst of Naples;
+while its interesting neighbour reminds one of the quaker-like plainness
+of Philadelphia. There are not, it is true, many which possess decidedly
+an individual character; for some of them contain such a heterogeneous
+congregation of buildings, that one cannot but imagine their occupants,
+in emigrating from every land under heaven, to have brought their own
+houses with them. The most usual style of building at present, is after
+the Boston school--if I may so term the fashion of the plain, solid,
+handsome brick and granite edifices, which are in progress here, as well
+as in every other city in the union; a style of architecture which owes
+its origin to the substantial good taste of the citizens of the goodly
+"city of notions." The majority of structures in the old, or French
+section of New-Orleans, are after the Spanish and French orders. This
+style of building is not only permanent and handsome, but peculiarly
+adapted, with its cool, paved courts, lofty ceilings, and spacious
+windows, to this sultry climate; and I regret that it is going rapidly
+out of fashion. Dwellings of this construction have, running through
+their centre, a broad, high-arched passage, with huge folding-doors, or
+gates, leading from the street to a paved court in the rear, which is
+usually surrounded by the sleeping-rooms and offices, communicating with
+each other by galleries running down the whole square. In the centre of
+this court usually stands a cistern, and placed around it, in large
+vases, are flowers and plants of every description. In their love for
+flowers, the Creoles are truly and especially French. The glimpses one
+has now and then, in passing through the streets, and by the ever-open
+doors of the Creoles' residences, of brilliant flowers and luxuriantly
+blooming exotics, are delightfully refreshing, and almost sufficient to
+tempt one to a "petit larceny." You may know the residence of a Creole
+here, even if he resides in a Yankee building, by his mosaic-paved
+court-yard, filled with vases of flowers.
+
+On arriving at Toulouse-street, which is the fifth intersecting
+Chartres-street, we turned into it, and pursued our way to the basin, in
+the rear of the city, which I was anxious to visit. A spectator in this
+street, on looking toward either extremity, can discover shipping. To
+the east, the dense forest of masts, bristling on the Mississippi,
+bounds his view; while, at the west, his eye falls upon the humbler
+craft, which traverse the sluggish waters of Lake Pontchartrain. This
+basin will contain about thirty small vessels. There were lying along
+the pier, when we arrived, five or six miserable-looking sloops and
+schooners, compared to which, our "down easters" are packet ships. These
+ply regularly between New-Orleans and Mobile, and by lading and
+discharging at this point, have given to this retired part of the city
+quite a business-like and sea-port air. The basin communicates with the
+lake, four miles distant, by means of a good canal. A mile below the
+basin, a rail-way has been lately constructed from the Mississippi to
+the lake, and has already nearly superseded the canal; but of this more
+anon.
+
+Leaving the basin, we passed a treeless green, which, we were informed
+by a passer-by, was dignified by the classical appellation of "Congo
+Square." Here, our obliging informant gave us to understand, the
+coloured "ladies and gentlemen" are accustomed to assemble on gala and
+saints' days, and to the time of outlandish music, dance, not the
+"Romaika," alas! but the "Fandango;" or, wandering in pairs, tell their
+dusky loves, within the dark shadows, not of jungles or palm groves, but
+of their own sable countenances. As the Congoese _elite_ had not yet
+left their kitchens, we, of course, had not the pleasure of seeing them
+move in the mystic dance, upon the "dark fantastic toe," to the dulcet
+melody of a Congo _banjo_.
+
+From the centre of this square, a fine view of the rear of the Cathedral
+is obtained, nearly a mile distant, at the head of Orleans-street, which
+terminates opposite the square. In this part of the town the houses were
+less compact, most of them of but one story, with steep projecting
+roofs, and graced by _parterres_; while many of the dwellings were half
+embowered with the rich green foliage of the fragrant orange and lemon
+trees. At the corner of rues St. Claude and St. Anne, we passed a very
+pretty buff-coloured, stuccoed edifice, retired from the street, which
+we were informed was the Masonic lodge. There are several others, I
+understand, in various parts of the city. A little farther, on rue St.
+Claude, in a lonely field, is a small plain building, denominated the
+College of Orleans, which has yet obtained no literary celebrity.
+Opposite to this edifice is the foot of Ursuline-street, up which we
+turned, in our ramble over the city, and proceeded toward the river. It
+may appear odd to you, that we should _ascend_ to the river; but such is
+the case here. You are aware, from the descriptions in one of my former
+letters, that the surface of the Mississippi, at its highest tide, is
+several feet higher than the surrounding country; and that it is
+restrained from wholly inundating it, only by banks, or _levees_,
+constructed at low stages of the water. Nowhere is this fact so evident
+as in New-Orleans. For the purpose of cleansing the city, water is let
+in at the heads of all those streets which terminate upon the river, by
+aqueducts constructed through the base of the Levee, and this artificial
+torrent rushes _from_ the river down the gutters, on each side of the
+streets, with as much velocity as, in other places, it would display in
+seeking to mingle with the stream. Sometimes the impetus is sufficient
+to carry the dirty torrents quite across the city into the swamps
+beyond. But when this is not the case, it must remain in the deep drains
+and gutters along the side-walks, impregnated with the quintessence of
+all the filth encountered in its Augean progress, exhaling its noisome
+effluvia, and poisoning the surrounding atmosphere. All the streets in
+the back part of the city are bordered on either side with a canal of an
+inky-coloured, filthy liquid, (water it cannot be termed) from which
+arises an odour or incense by no means acceptable to the olfactory
+sensibilities. The streets running parallel with the river, having no
+inclination either way, are, as a natural consequence of their
+situation, redolent of these Stygian exhalations. Why New-Orleans is
+not depopulated to a man, when once the yellow fever breaks out in it,
+is a miracle. From the peculiarity of its location, and a combination of
+circumstances, it must always be more or less unhealthy. But were the
+police, which is at present rather of a military than a civil character,
+regulated more with a view to promote the comfort and health of the
+community, the evil might be in a great measure remedied, and many
+hundred lives annually preserved.
+
+On ascending Ursuline-street, we remarked what I had previously noticed
+in several other streets, upon the doors of unoccupied dwellings,
+innumerable placards of "Chambre garnie," "Maison a louer," "Appartement
+a louer," &c. On inquiry, I ascertained that their former occupants had
+been swept away by the cholera and yellow fever, which have but a few
+weeks ceased their ravages. Four out of five houses, which we had seen
+advertised to let, in different parts of the city, were French, from
+which I should judge that the majority of the victims were Creoles. The
+effects of the awful reign of the pestilence over this devoted city,
+have not yet disappeared. The terrific spirit has passed by, but his
+lingering shadow still casts a funereal gloom over the theatre of his
+power. The citizens generally are apparelled in mourning; and the public
+places of amusement have long been closed.
+
+The old Ursuline convent stands between Ursuline and Hospital streets,
+and opposite to the barracks, usually denominated the "Old Spanish
+Barracks." Crossing rue Royale, we first visited those on the south
+side of Hospital-street. On inquiring of an old, gray-headed soldier,
+standing in front of a kind of guard-house, if the long, massive pile of
+brick, which extended from the street more than two hundred feet to the
+rear, "were the barracks?" he replied, with genuine Irish brogue, "Which
+barracks, jintlemen?" Ignorant of more than one place of the kind, we
+repeated the question with emphasis. "Why yes, yer 'onours, its thim
+same they are, an' bad luck to the likes o' them." We inquired "if the
+regiment was quartered here?" "The rigiment is it, jintlemen! och, but
+it's not here at all, at all; divil a rigiment has been in it (the city
+meaning) this many a month. The sogers, what's come back, is quarthered,
+ivery mother's son o' them, in the private hoose of a jintleman jist
+by."
+
+"Why did they leave the city?"
+
+"For fear o' the cholery, sure. But there's a rigiment ixpicted soon,
+and they'll quarther here, jintlemen; and we're repeerin' the barracks
+to contain thim, till the new ones is ericted; 'cause these is not the
+illigant barracks what's goin' to be ericted, sure."
+
+Finding our Milesian so communicative, we questioned him farther, and
+obtained much interesting information. From the street, the barracks,
+which are now unoccupied, present the appearance of a huge arcade,
+formed by a colonnade of massive brick pillars, running along its whole
+length. Some portion of the front was stuccoed, giving a handsome
+appearance to that part of the building. The whole is to be finished in
+the same manner, and when completed, the structure will be a striking
+ornament to New-Orleans: probably a rival of the "splendid new edifice"
+about to be erected in a lower part of the city. Though called the
+"Spanish Barracks," I am informed that they were erected by the Duke of
+Orleans, when he governed this portion of the French possessions.
+Immediately opposite to the barracks, in the convent yard, are two very
+ancient wooden guard-houses, blackened and decayed with age, about
+thirty feet in height, looking very much like armless windmills, or
+mammoth pigeon-houses.
+
+The convent next invited our notice. It has, till within a few years,
+been very celebrated for its school for young ladies, who were sent here
+from all the southern part of the Union, and even from Europe. A few
+years since, a new convent was erected two miles below the city, whither
+the Ursuline ladies have removed; and where they still keep a
+boarding-school for young ladies, which is highly and justly celebrated.
+The old building is now occupied by the public schools. Desirous of
+visiting so fine a specimen of cis-Atlantic antiquity, and at the same
+time to make some observation of the system of education pursued in this
+city, we proceeded toward the old gateway of the convent, to apply for
+admittance.
+
+We might have belaboured the rickety gate till doomsday, without gaining
+admittance, had not an unlucky, or rather, lucky stroke which we decided
+should be our last, brought the old wicket rattling about our ears,
+enveloping us in clouds of dust, as it fell with a tremendous crash
+upon the pavement. At this very alarming _contre temps_, we had not time
+to make up our minds whether to beat a retreat, or encounter the assault
+of an ominously sounding tongue, which thundered "mutterings dire," as
+with anger in her eye, and wonder in her mien, the owner rushed from a
+little porter's lodge, which stood on the right hand within the gate,
+
+    "To see what could in nature be the matter,
+    To crack her lugs with such a ponderous clatter."
+
+We succeeded in appeasing the ire of the offended janitress, and
+proceeded across a deserted court covered with short grass, to the
+principal entrance of the convent, which stands about seventy feet back
+from the street.
+
+This edifice presents nothing remarkable, except its size, it being
+about one hundred feet in front, by forty deep. Its aspect is venerable,
+but extremely plain, the front being entirely destitute of ornament or
+architectural taste. It is stuccoed, and apparently was once white, but
+it is now gray with rust and age. It may be called either a French or
+Spanish building, for it equally evinces both styles of architecture;
+presenting that anomaly, characteristic of those old structures which
+give a fine antiquated air to that part of the city. Massive pilasters
+with heavy cornices, tall, deep windows, huge doorways, and flat roofs,
+are the distinguishing features of this style of building. Never more
+than two, the dwellings are usually but one very lofty story in height,
+and covered with a light yellow stucco, in imitation of dingy-white,
+rough hewn marble. In internal arrangement and decorations, and external
+appearance, they differ but little from each other. As we passed under
+the old, sunken portal, the confused muttering of some hundred treble
+tongues, mingled, now and then, with a deep bass grumble of authority,
+burst upon our ears, and intimated our proximity to the place where
+"young ideas are taught to shoot." Wishing to gratify our curiosity by
+rambling through the convent's deserted halls and galleries, before we
+entered the rooms whence the noise proceeded, we ascended a spacious
+winding stairway; but there was nothing to be seen in the second story,
+except deserted rooms, and we ascended yet another stair-case to a low
+room in the attic, formerly the dormitory of the nunnery. While on our
+return to the first floor, a gentleman, M. Priever, who was, as we
+afterward ascertained, principal of the public schools of the city,
+encountered us on the stairs, and politely invited us to visit the
+different school-rooms within the building. We first accompanied him to
+the extremity of a long gallery, where he ushered us into a pleasant
+room, in which a dozen boys were sitting round a table, translating
+Latin exercises into French. This class, he informed us, he had just
+taken from the primary school below stairs, to instruct in the
+elementary classics. From this gentleman we ascertained that there were
+in the city two primary schools, one within the convent walls, and the
+other a mile distant, in the northern faubourg. From these two schools,
+when properly qualified, the pupils are removed into the high, or
+classic school, kept within the convent. He observed that he had the
+supervision of these three schools--the high, and two primary--though
+each had its own particular teacher. The principals of the two convent
+schools are gentlemen distinguished both for urbanity and literary
+endowments. In the classical school, pupils can obtain almost every
+advantage which a collegiate course would confer upon them. The French
+and Spanish languages form a necessary part of their education; and but
+few young men resort to northern colleges from New-Orleans. It is the
+duty of the principal often to visit the primary schools--select from
+their most promising pupils, those qualified to enter the high
+school--form them into classes by daily recitations in his own room, (in
+which employment he was engaged when we entered,) and then pass them
+over to the teacher of the school they are prepared to enter.
+
+With Mons. P. we visited the classical school, where fifty or sixty
+young gentlemen were pursuing the higher branches of study. The
+instructer was a Frenchman, as are all the other teachers. In this, and
+the other departments, the greater portion of the students also are of
+French descent; and probably about one-third, in all the schools, are of
+American parentage. Mons. P. informed me that the latter usually
+acquired, after being in the school six weeks, or two months, sufficient
+French for all colloquial purposes. He observed that the majority of the
+scholars, in all the departments, spoke both languages (French and
+English,) with great fluency. After hearing two or three classes
+translate Greek and Latin authors into French, and one or two embryo
+mathematicians demonstrate Euclid, in the same tongue, we proceeded to
+the opposite wing of the building, and were ushered into the rattle,
+clangor, and confusion of the primary department. We were politely
+received by Mons. Bigot, a Parisian, a fine scholar, and an estimable
+man. You have visited infant schools for boys, I believe; recall to mind
+the novel and amusing scenes you there beheld, and you will have an idea
+of this primary school. The only difference would be, that here the
+pupils are rough, tearing boys, from fifteen years of age to three.
+Here, as in the former, they marched and counter-marched, clapped their
+hands, stamped hard upon the floor, and performed various evolutions for
+the purpose of circulating the blood, which by sitting too long is apt
+to stagnate, and render them, particularly in this climate, dull and
+sleepy. We listened to some of their recitations, which were in the
+lowest elementary branches, and took our leave under infinite
+obligations to the politeness and attention of the gentlemanly
+superintendents.
+
+Besides these, there are private schools for both sexes. The majority of
+the young ladies are educated by the Ursulines at the convent, in the
+lower faubourg. Some of the public schools are exclusively for English,
+and others exclusively for French children. Many pupils are also
+instructed by private tutors, particularly in the suburbs.
+
+
+
+
+XVI.
+
+      Rail-road--A new avenue to commerce--Advantages of the
+      rail-way--Ride to the lake--The forest--Village at the
+      lake--Pier--Fishers--Swimmers--Mail-boat--Cafes--Return
+      --An unfortunate cow--New-Orleans streets.
+
+
+In a preceding letter, I have alluded to an intended visit to the
+rail-way; near which, on my way thither, my last letter left me, in
+company with B., after having paid a visit to the Ursuline convent. On
+leaving Ursuline-street, which terminates at the river, we proceeded a
+short distance, to the rail-road, along the Levee, which was lined with
+ships, bearing the flags of nearly all the nations of the earth. The
+length of this rail-way is about five miles, terminating at Lake
+Pontchartrain. Its advantages to New-Orleans are incalculable. It has
+been to the city literally "an avenue of wealth" already. The trade
+carried on through this medium, bears no mean proportion to the river
+commerce. Ports, heretofore unknown to Orleans, as associated with
+traffic, carry on, now, a regular and important branch of trade with
+her. By it, a great trade is carried on with Mobile and other places
+along the Florida coast, and by the same means, the mails are
+transported with safety and rapidity. The country between New-Orleans
+and the nearest shore of the lake, is low, flat, marshy, and covered
+with a half-drowned and stunted forest. The lake, though near the city,
+formerly was inaccessible. Vessels laden with their valuable cargoes
+might arrive at the termination of the lake within sight of the city,
+but the broad marsh extending between them and the far-off towers of the
+wished-for mart, might as well have been the cloud-capped Jura, for any
+means of communication it could afford. But the rail-way has overcome
+this obstacle: coasting vessels, which traverse the lake in great
+numbers, can now receive and discharge their cargoes at the foot of the
+rail-way, upon a long pier extending far out into the lake. The
+discharged cargoes are piled upon the cars and in twenty minutes are
+added to the thousand shiploads, heaped upon the Levee; or, placed upon
+drays, are trundling to every part of the city.
+
+When we arrived at the rail-way, the cars for passengers, eight or ten
+in number, were standing in a line under a long roof, which covers the
+end of the rail-way. A long train of baggage or cargo-cars were in the
+rear of these, all heavily laden. The steam-car, puffing and blowing
+like a bustling little man in a crowd, seemed impatient to dart forward
+upon the track. We perceived that all was ready for a start; and barely
+had time to hasten to the ticket-office, throw down our six "bits" for
+two tickets, and spring into the only vacant seats in one of the cars,
+before the first bell rang out the signal for starting.
+
+All the cars were full; including two or three behind, appropriated to
+coloured gentlemen and ladies. Again the bell gave the final signal; and
+obedient thereto, our fiery leader moved forward, smoking like a
+race-horse, slowly and steadily at first--then, faster and faster, till
+we flew along the track with breathless rapidity. The rail-road,
+commencing at the Levee, runs for the first half mile through the centre
+of a broad street, with low detached houses on either side. A mile from
+the Levee we had left the city and all dwellings behind us, and were
+flying through the fenceless, uninhabited marshes, where nothing meets
+the eye but dwarf trees, rank, luxuriant undergrowth, tall, coarse
+grass, and vines, twisting and winding their long, serpentine folds
+around the trunks of the trees like huge, loathsome water-snakes. By the
+watch, we passed a mile-stone every three minutes and a half; and in
+less than nineteen minutes, arrived at the lake. Here, quite a village
+of handsome, white-painted hotels, cafes, dwellings, store-houses, and
+bathing rooms, burst at once upon our view; running past them, we
+gradually lessened our speed, and finally came to a full stop on the
+pier, where the rail-road terminates. Here we left the cars, which came
+thumping against each other successively, as they stopped; but the
+points of contact being padded, prevented any very violent shock to the
+occupants. The pier, constructed of piles and firmly planked over, was
+lined with sloops and schooners, which were taking in and discharging
+cargo, giving quite a bustling, business-like air to this infant port.
+Boys, ragged negroes, and gentlemen amateurs, were fishing in great
+numbers farther out in the lake; others were engaged in the delicate
+amusement of cray-fishing, while on the right the water was alive with
+bathers, who, disdaining the confined limits enclosed by the long white
+bathing-houses, which stretched along the south side of the pier, and
+yielding to the promptings of a watery ambition, were boldly striking
+out into the sluggish depths. To the east, the waters of the lake and
+sky met, presenting an ocean horizon to the untravelled citizens, who
+can have no other conception of the reality without taking a trip to the
+Balize. Light craft were skimming its waveless surface, under the
+influence of a gentle breeze, in all directions. A steamer, bearing the
+United States mail from Mobile, was seen in the distance, rolling out
+clouds of black smoke, and ploughing and dashing on her rapid way to the
+pier.
+
+Retracing our steps to the head of the pier, we entered a very handsome
+_cafe_, or hotel, crowded with men. The eternal dominos were rattling on
+every table, glasses were ringing against glasses, and voices were
+heard, in high-toned conversation, in all languages, with mingled oaths
+and laughter; the noise and confusion were sufficient, without a
+miracle, to make a deaf man hear. All these persons, probably, were from
+the city, and had come down to the lake to amuse themselves, or kill an
+hour. The opposite _cafe_ was equally crowded; while the billiard-rooms
+adjoining were filled with spectators and players. Clouds of
+tobacco-smoke enveloped the multitude, and the rooms rung with "Sacre
+bleu!" "Mon Dieu!" "Diable!" and blunt English oaths of equal force and
+import.
+
+The first bell for the return had rung, and the passengers rushed to the
+cars, which were soon filled; the signal for starting was given, and the
+locomotive again led the van, with as much apparent importance as that
+with which the redoubtable and twice immortal Major Downing might be
+supposed to precede his gallant "rigiment of down easters." We had
+passed two-thirds of the distance when we were alarmed by a sudden and
+tremendous shouting from the forward car. The cry was echoed
+involuntarily along the whole train, and every head was instantly darted
+from the windows. The cause of the alarm was instantly perceptible. Less
+than a quarter of a mile ahead, a cow was lying very quietly and
+composedly, directly in the track of the flying cars. The shouts of the
+frightened passengers on discovering her, either petrified her with
+utter fear--for such yellings and whoopings were never heard before on
+this side Hades--or did not reach her, for she kept her position with
+the most complacent _nonchalance_. The engineer instantly stopped the
+locomotive, but though our momentum was diminished, it was too late to
+effect his object; in thirty seconds from the first discovery of the
+cow, the engine passed over the now terrified animal, with a
+jump--jump--and a grinding crash, and with so violent a shock as nearly
+to throw the car from the track; the next, and the next car
+followed--and the poor animal, the next instant, was left far behind, so
+completely severed, that the rear cars passed over her without any
+perceptible shock.
+
+In a few minutes afterward, we arrived at the city, having been one
+minute longer in returning than in going to the lake. The rail-way has
+become, if not a very fashionable, at least a very general resort, for a
+great portion of the inhabitants of New-Orleans, particularly on
+Sabbaths and holydays. Lake Pontchartrain, the destination of all who
+visit the rail road for an excursion of pleasure, is, to New-Orleans,
+what Gray's Ferry was in the olden time to the good citizens of
+Philadelphia; or Jamaica pond is, at present, to the most worthy
+citizens of the emporium of notions; or what "Broad's" is to the gay
+citizens of Portland.[7] When we alighted from the car, the omnibus was
+at its stand at the head of the rail-way; so, jumping into it, with
+twenty others, the horn was blown with an emphasis, the whip was cracked
+with a series of inimitable flourishes, and in fifteen minutes after
+leaving the car, we were safely deposited near our hotel. If our jolting
+ride home, through the rough, deep-guttered streets, did not increase
+our appetite for the good things awaiting us at the _table d'hote_, it
+at least demonstrated to us the superiority of rail-ways over unpaved
+streets, which every now and then are intersected, for the sake of
+variety, with a gutter of no particular width, and a foot and a half
+deep, more or less, by the "lead."
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[7] The following sketch of the scenery and resources of Lake
+Pontchartrain is extracted from one of the New-Orleans papers, and is
+valuable for its general observations, and the correctness of its
+description of this theatre of summer amusement for the pleasure-seeking
+Orleanese:--
+
+"Seven years ago there was but one steamboat plying the lakes in the
+vicinity of New-Orleans. There are now nine constantly departing from,
+and arriving at, the foot of the rail-road. They are generally crowded
+with passengers going to, and returning from the numerous villages which
+have sprung up in the woods that skirt the shores of Lake Borgne and
+Lake Pontchartrain, happy in the enjoyment of such facilities of escape
+from the heat and insalubrity of the city, and the anxious cares of
+business.
+
+"This is the season for relaxation everywhere. It is, and should be,
+especially in New-Orleans, where the business of a year, by
+circumstances, is forced to be crowded into a few months, and where the
+people, during the season of business, are distinguished beyond any
+other for a devoted and untiring application to their affairs. If we may
+not here set apart a little time, and a little money, for amusement in
+summer, we know not where a claim for recreation and refreshment may be
+put forth. The fare on board the steam packets is extremely moderate,
+the accommodations good and convenient, the passages very agreeable, and
+the accommodations at the various public houses which line the shores,
+though not equalling the luxury and sumptuousness of the city houses,
+are sufficient for health and comfort. The moderate sums demanded from
+the passengers, and low price of board at the houses, enable young men
+to spend a month of leisure, at little, if any more cost, than the
+expenses of a month's residence in the city. The treat which they
+provide, in fish, fresh from the water, and in oysters from their banks,
+more than compensates for any difference in the meats of the market.
+Among the best houses on the borders of the lakes, are those, we
+believe, at Madisonville and Pascagoula, the first the nearest to, and
+the latter the farthest from the city; but in beauty of situation and
+scenery, all other spots are surpassed by that of the village at the bay
+of Beloxi, where, as yet, no house of public accommodation has been
+established. The curve of the bay is the line of beauty, the waves of
+old Ocean wash its margin, and his refreshing and invigorating airs
+whistle through the woods. There is a quiet and repose in the scene, not
+witnessed anywhere else along the voyage across the lakes. The neat, but
+scattering cottages lie seemingly imbedded among the rich and dark
+foliage of the back ground, and you fancy the inhabitants may be taking
+a Rip Van Winkle nap, of twenty years, a nap filled with dreams of the
+sweetest and most agreeable nature. We understand that there is yet
+land, fronting on the bay, which may be entered at the minimum price
+affixed by the government. In addition to the poetical attractions of
+the bay of Beloxi, we might add the substantial ones of--milk in
+abundance at a bit a quart--fish and wild fowl, (the latter just
+beginning to appear) plenty and cheap--and oysters at a bit a hundred.
+
+"We are informed that the citizens of Mobile contemplate the erection of
+a splendid hotel on Dauphin Island, at the entrance of Mobile bay,
+immediately by which the steamboats pass on their way between Mobile bay
+and New-Orleans; and as the Mobilians seldom seriously contemplate any
+thing without carrying it into execution, we expect that in another year
+a common ground will be furnished, where the citizens of the two cities
+of the south-west may meet for their common amusement. The situation is
+healthful and agreeable, and we _hope_, as well as expect, that the
+project will be consummated."
+
+
+
+
+XVII.
+
+      The legislature--Senators and representatives--Tenney--
+      Gurley--Ripley--Good feeling among members--Translated
+      speeches--Ludicrous situations--Slave law--Bishop's hotel
+      --Tower--View from its summit--Bachelor establishments--
+      Peculiar state of society.
+
+
+During my accustomed peregrinations around the city yesterday, I dropped
+into the hall of the legislature, which was in session in the government
+house,--that large, handsome edifice, erected on Canal-street, alluded
+to in a former letter. The senate and house of representatives were
+literally _both_ upper houses, being convened on the second floor of the
+building.
+
+The rooms are large and sufficiently comfortable, though devoid of any
+architectural display. The number of senators is seventeen; of
+representatives, fifty. The majority, in both houses, are Creoles:
+there being, as I was informed, nine, out of the seventeen senators,
+French, and a small French majority in the house. The residue are
+_citizenized_ northerners, and individuals from other states, who embody
+no mean portion of the political talents and statesman-like qualities of
+the legislature. Among many, to whom I had the pleasure of an
+introduction, and whose public characters are well and honourably known,
+I will mention Mr. Tenney, a native of New-Hampshire, and an alumnus of
+Dartmouth college. He has, like many other able and enterprising sons of
+New-England, struggled with no little distinction through all the
+vicissitudes of a young lawyer's career, till the suffrages of his
+adopted fellow-citizens have elevated him to the honourable station of
+senator, in the legislature of the state which he has chosen for his
+home. There are other northerners also, who, though in different
+stations, have arrived at distinction here. Their catalogue is not
+large, but it is brilliant with genius. The honourable career of the
+accomplished and lamented Gurley is well known to you. He was a man
+eminently distinguished, both for his public and social virtues; and in
+his death his adopted state has lost one of the brightest stars of her
+political constellation. And Ripley too, though shining in a southern
+sky, sheds a distinguished lustre over the "land of the north"--the
+country of his birth.
+
+There is generally a large amount of business brought before this
+legislature, and its sessions seldom terminate before March or April. In
+their transactions, as a legislative body, there is a total absence of
+those little, though natural prejudices, which might be presumed to
+exist among members, so different from each other in education,
+language, and peculiarity of thought. If a bill is introduced by an
+American, the French members do not feel a disposition to oppose its
+passage on that account; nor, when it is brought in by a Frenchman, do
+they support it more eagerly or unanimously for that reason. A spirit of
+mutual cordiality, as great as can be looked for in a political
+assembly, pervades their whole body, to the entire exclusion of local
+prejudices. Neither is there an exclusive language used in their
+legislative proceedings. It is not necessary that the American members
+should speak French, or _vice versa_, though it would be certainly more
+agreeable were it universally understood by them; as all speeches made
+by Frenchmen, are immediately translated into English, while those made
+by the Americans are repeated again, by the translator, to the French
+part of the house, in their own language. This method not only
+necessarily consumes a great deal of time, and becomes excessively
+tedious to all parties, but diminishes, as do all translations, the
+strength, eloquence, and force of a speech; and, of course, lessens the
+impression. It is not a little amusing, to study the whimsical
+contortions of a Frenchman, while, with shrugging shoulders and restless
+eyes, he listens to, and watches the countenance of, some American party
+opponent, who may have the floor. The latter thunders out his torrent of
+eloquence, wherein the nicest epithets are not, perhaps, the most
+carefully chosen, in his zeal to express his political gall against his
+Gallic opponent; while monsieur fidgets about in happy ignorance, till
+the honourable member concludes,--when he jumps up, runs his open hand,
+chin, and nose, almost in the face of the interpreter, "_arrectis
+auribus_," and chafing like a lion; and before the last sentence is
+hurriedly completed, flings down his gantlet,--throws his whole soul
+into a rush of warm eloquence, beneath the edifying sound of which, his
+American antagonist feels that it is now his time to look foolish, which
+he does with a most commendable expression of mock _sang froid_, upon
+his twitching, try-to-be philosophic features.
+
+The president of the senate and speaker of the house are Frenchmen: it
+is expected, however, that gentlemen filling these stations will readily
+speak French and English. By an act of a former legislature, slaves from
+other states could not be sold in this state, nor even those belonging
+to Louisiana, unless they were owned here previous to the passage of the
+law. The penalties for a violation of this law were fine and
+imprisonment to the vender, and the forfeiture of the slave, or his
+value. The law occasioned greater inconvenience to the citizens of the
+state, than its framers had foreseen. It again became a subject-matter
+for legislation, and a large portion of the members advocated its
+repeal. This was the subject of discussion when I was present, and the
+question of repeal was ably and warmly supported by Mr. Tenney, who is
+one of the state senators. Though he is doubtful whether the repeal
+will be effected this session, he is sanguine that it will be carried
+during the next annual assembly of the legislature.[8]
+
+Leaving the government house, with its assembled wisdom, I repaired to
+my hotel, where I was to await the arrival of a friend, who had invited
+me to accompany him in a ride a few miles below the city on the banks of
+the river. I believe, in all my letters, I have yet been silent
+respecting this hotel; I will, however, while waiting for my equestrian
+friend, remedy that deficiency; for true to your wish, I will write of
+all and every thing worthy of notice; and I am half of your mind, that
+whatever is worthy the attention of a tourist, merits the passing record
+of his pen. "Bishop's hotel," so designated from its landlord, has been
+recently constructed, and is one of the largest in the Union. The
+Tremont possesses more architectural elegance; and Barnum's, the pride
+of Baltimore, is a handsomer structure. In the appearance of Bishop's,
+there is nothing imposing, but its height. It has two fronts, one on
+Camp, the other on Common-street. It is uniformly, with the exception of
+an angular tower, five stories in height; its bar-room is more than one
+hundred feet in length, and universally allowed to be the most splendid
+in America. The dining room, immediately over it, on the second floor,
+is of the same size; in which from two hundred and fifty to three
+hundred dine daily, of whom, probably, not twenty are French. The table
+is burthened with every luxury which can be procured in this luxurious
+climate. The servants are numerous, and with but two or three
+exceptions, slaves. They are willing, active, and intelligent. In this
+important point, Bishop's hotel is every way superior to the Tremont.
+There "pampered menials," whose every look and manner speak as plainly
+as anything but the tongue can speak, "if you desire anything of us,
+sir, be mighty civil, or you may whistle for it, for be assured, sir,
+that _we_ are every whit as good as _you_." The insolence of these
+servants is already proverbial. But white servants, any where, and under
+any circumstances, are far from agreeable. In this point, and it is by
+no means an unimportant one, Bishop's is unequivocally superior to the
+Boston palace. With the coloured servant it is in verity, "Go, and he
+goeth--Come, and he cometh--Do this, and he doeth it."
+
+The sleeping apartments are elegantly furnished, and carpeted, and well
+ventilated. There are two spacious drawing-rooms, contiguous to the
+magnificent dining hall, where lounging gentlemen can feel quite at
+home; and one of these contains a piano for the musical. From the top of
+the tower, which is one of the most elevated stations in the city, there
+is, to repay the fatigue of climbing the "weary, winding way," to the
+summit--a fine panoramic view of the whole city, with its sombre towers,
+flat roofs, long, dark, narrow streets, distant marshes, and the
+majestic Mississippi, sweeping proudly away to the north, and to the
+south, alive with dashing steamers, and glancing with white sails. The
+horizon, on every side, presents the same low, level, unrelieved line,
+that for ever meets the eye, which way soever it turns in the lower
+regions of the Mississippi. A day or two after I arrived here, I
+ascended to the top of this tower. The morning was brilliant, and the
+atmosphere was so pure, that distant objects seemed to be viewed through
+the purest crystalline medium. I would recommend every stranger, on his
+arrival at New-Orleans, to receive his first general impression of the
+city, from this eminence. He will regret, however, equally with others,
+that the pleasure he derives from the prospect cannot be enhanced by the
+aid of a good telescope, or even a common ship's spy-glass in either of
+which articles, the "lookout" is singularly deficient; but the
+enterprise, good taste, and obliging manner of Mr. Bishop have
+contributed in all else, throughout his extensive establishment, to the
+comfort, content, and amusement, of his numerous guests. A peculiarity
+in this hotel, and in one or two others here, is the exclusion of ladies
+from among the number of boarders; it is, properly, a bachelor
+establishment. There are, however, hotels of high rank in the city,
+where ladies and families are accommodated. They are kept by ladies, and
+often agreeably unite, with the public character of a hotel, the
+pleasures and advantages of social society. The boarding-house of Madame
+Wilkinson, widow of the late Gen. Wilkinson, a lady distinguished for
+her talents and accomplishments; that of Madame Herries, the widow of a
+titled foreigner, I believe, in Canal-street, and one or two others
+kept in good style, in Chartres-street, are the principal in the city.
+
+Richardson's, a large hotel on Conti-street, is a bachelor
+establishment, where the up-country merchants usually put up, when they
+arrive in the city to purchase goods; though many of them, from choice
+or economy, remain as boarders or lodgers on board the steamers which
+bring them to New-Orleans, and on which, with their goods, they return
+to their homes. Young unmarried men here, usually have single furnished
+rooms, where they lodge, breakfast, and sup, dining at some hotel. There
+are, in some of the streets, long blocks of one story houses, with but
+one or two rooms in each, built purposely to be let out to bachelors.
+Indeed, there are neither hotels nor boarding-houses enough to
+accommodate one-tenth part of this class of forlorn bipeds. This
+independent way of living, in practice among so large a portion of the
+citizens and sojourners, in this city of anomalies, necessarily produces
+a peculiarity of character and habits among its observers, which has its
+natural and deteriorating effect upon the general state of society.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[8] The law has recently been repealed.
+
+
+
+
+XVIII.
+
+      Saddle horses and accoutrements--Banks--Granite--Church-
+      members--French mode of dressing--Quadroons--Gay scene and
+      groups in the streets--Sabbath evening--Duelling ground--An
+      extensive cotton-press--A literary germ--A mysterious
+      institution--Scenery in the suburbs--Convent--Catholic
+      education.
+
+
+I intended in my last letter, to give you some account of an equestrian
+excursion along the banks of the river, and of a visit to the new
+Ursuline convent, two miles below the city; but a long digression about
+hotels and bachelors brought me to the end of my letter before I could
+even mention the subject. I will now fulfil my intention, in this
+letter, which will probably be the last you will receive from me, dated
+at New-Orleans.
+
+Mounting our horses, at the door of the hotel, which were accoutred with
+clinking curbs, flashing martingales, and high-pummelled Spanish
+saddles, covered with blue broadcloth, the covering and housings being
+of one piece, as is the fashion here, we proceeded by a circuitous route
+to avoid the crowded front streets, toward the lower faubourg. In our
+ride, we passed the banks of the city, most of which are in
+Bienville-street or its vicinity. With but one exception, there is
+nothing in their external appearance to distinguish them from the other
+ordinary buildings, by which they are surrounded. The one referred to,
+whose denomination I do not recollect, is decidedly one of the
+handsomest structures in the south. It is lofty and extensive, with an
+imposing front and handsome columns, and stuccoed, so as to resemble the
+finest granite. And so perfect is the resemblance, that one can only
+assure himself that it is a deception, by reflecting that this beautiful
+material is used here little except in ornamental work; it being
+imported in small quantities from a great distance, by water, and its
+transportation being attended with too much expense to admit of its
+general adoption, as a material for building. The episcopal and
+presbyterian churches we also passed; both are plain buildings. Under
+the latter, an infant school is kept, which has been but lately
+organized, and is already very flourishing. It is under the care of
+northerners, as are most schools in this place, which are not French.
+
+Of the permanent population of this city--which does not exceed
+fifty-one or two thousand, of whom thirty thousand are coloured--between
+fifteen and sixteen thousand are Catholics, and nearly six thousand
+Protestants; among whom are about seven hundred communicants. The
+Catholic communicants number about six thousand and five hundred. There
+are ten Protestant churches, over which preside but seven or eight
+clergymen. Though the number of the former so much exceeds that of the
+latter, there are in this city in all, but six churches and chapels of
+the Catholic denomination, in which about twenty-five priests regularly
+officiate. There is here but one church to every three thousand and two
+hundred inhabitants, the estimate, for the most religious nations, being
+a church and clergyman for about every one thousand of the population.
+
+As we rode along, I was struck with the appearance of the peculiar dress
+worn by the French inhabitants. The gentlemen, almost without exception,
+wear pantaloons of blue cottonade, coarse and unsightly in its
+appearance, but which many exquisites have recently taken a fancy to
+adopt. Their coats are seldom well fashioned; narrow, low collars, large
+flat buttons, hardly within hail of each other, and long, narrow skirts
+being the _bon-ton_. Their hats are all oddly shaped, and between the
+extremity of their pantaloons and their ill-shaped shoes, half a yard of
+blue striped yarn stocking shocks the fastidious eye. The ladies dress
+with taste, but it is French taste; with too much of the gew-gaw to
+please the plain republican, and, "by the same token," correct taste of
+a northerner. Many fine women, with brunette complexions, are to be seen
+walking the streets with the air of donnas. They wear no bonnets, but as
+a substitute, fasten a veil to the head; which, as they move, floats
+gracefully around them. These are termed "quadroons," one quarter of
+their blood being tinged with African. I have heard it remarked, that
+some of the finest looking women in New-Orleans are "quadroons." I know
+not how true this may be, but they certainly have large fine eyes, good
+features, magnificent forms, and elegantly shaped feet.
+
+If a stranger should feel disposed to judge, whether the British
+watch-word, "Beauty and Booty," was based on a sufficient consideration,
+let him promenade the streets at twilight, and he will be convinced of
+the propriety of its first item. Then, windows, balconies, and doors,
+are alive with bright eyes, glancing scarfs, gay, bonnetless girls,
+playing children, and happy groups of every age. Street after street,
+square after square, will still present to him the same delightful scene
+of happy faces, and merry voices. The whole fair population seem to have
+abandoned their houses for the open air. How the bachelors of
+New-Orleans thread their way at sunset, through these brilliant groups
+of dark, sparkling eyes, without being burned to a cinder, passeth my
+comprehension. Every Sunday evening there is an extra turn out, when the
+whole city may be found promenading the noble Levee. This is an
+opportunity, which no stranger should omit, to observe the citizens
+under a new aspect. A ramble through the various streets, a few
+twilights successively, and a promenade on the Levee, on a Sabbath
+evening, will bring all the fair Creoles of the city, in review before
+him, and if that will not repay him for his trouble, let him go play
+"dominos!"
+
+In our ride, we passed the commercial library. Its collection is
+valuable but not large. By the politeness of Monsieur D. I received a
+card for admittance during my stay; and I have found it an agreeable
+_oasis_ of rest, after rambling for hours about the city. Its advantages
+in a place like this, where there are no circulating libraries, are very
+great. Passing the rail-way, in the vicinity of which is the Gentilly
+road, the famous duelling ground, we arrived at the "cotton press," a
+short distance below, on the left, fronting the river. It is a very
+extensive brick building with wings, having a yard in the rear, capable
+of containing fifty thousand bales of cotton. There is a rail-way,
+extending from the river to the press, on which the cotton is conveyed
+from the steamers, passing under a lofty arched way through the centre
+of the building, to the yard. All the cotton brought down the river, in
+addition to its original compression by hand, as it is baled up on the
+plantations, is again compressed by steam here, which diminishes the
+bale cubically, nearly one third. A ship can consequently take many more
+bales, than if the cotton were not thus compressed. There are, also, one
+or two more steam cotton-presses in the upper part of the city, which I
+have not had an opportunity of visiting. After passing this last
+building we overtook a cart loaded with negroes, proceeding to the
+country. To our inquiry, one of them answered,--while the others
+exhibited ivory enough to sheathe a ship's bottom, "We Wirginny niggurs,
+Massas: new massa, he juss buy us, and we be gwine to he plantation.
+Plenty sugar dere, massa!" They all appeared contented and happy, and
+highly elated at their sweet anticipations. Say not that the slavery of
+the Louisiana negroes is a _bitter_ draught.
+
+An old, plain, unassuming, and apparently deserted building, a little
+retired from the road and half-hidden in shrubbery, next attracted our
+attention. Over its front was a sign informing us that it was the
+"Lyceum pour les jeunes gens." We could not learn whether it had teacher
+or pupil, but from appearances we inferred that it was minus both. A
+padre, in the awkward black gown peculiar to his order, which is seldom
+laid aside out of doors, passed just at this time; and to our inquiries
+respecting the lyceum, though framed, _me judice_, in very respectable
+_lingua Franca_, he deigned us no other reply than a pleasant smile, and
+a low-toned, sonorous "Benedicite." With others, we were equally
+unsuccessful. One, of whom we inquired, and who appeared as though he
+might find an amber-stone among a heap of pebbles, if he were previously
+informed that it was the colour of whiskey--replied, "Why, I dont
+cozactly know, stranngers, seeing I aint used to readin', overmuch, but
+to my eye, it looks consarnedly like a tavern-sign."
+
+"Why do you think so, my man?"
+
+"Why, you see, I can't, somehow, make out the first part; but the last
+word spells gin, as slick as a tallow whistle--I say, strannger, ye
+haint got nothin o' no small-sized piccaiune about ye, have ye?"--We
+threw our intelligent informant, who was no doubt some stray prodigal
+son from old Kentuck or down east--though his ignorance of the art of
+reading belied his country--the required fee for his information, and
+continued our ride. We were now quite out of the city; the noble
+Mississippi rolled proudly toward the sea on our right, its banks
+unrelieved by a single vessel:--while on our left, embowered in
+shrubbery, public and private buildings lined the road, which wound
+pleasantly along the level borders of the river.
+
+Shortly after leaving the Lyceum, we noticed on our left, at some
+distance from the road, a large building, of more respectable appearance
+and dimensions than the last. A sign here too informed us, whatever our
+ingenious literary sign-reader might have rendered it, that _there_ was
+the "College Washington." Our information respecting this institution
+was in every respect as satisfactory as that which we had obtained
+concerning the Lyceum. Not an individual urchin, or grave instructer,
+was to be seen at the windows, or within the precincts. Its halls were
+silent and deserted. I have made inquiries, since I returned, of old
+residents, respecting it. No one knows any thing of it. Some may have
+heard there was such a college. Some may even have seen the sign, in
+passing: but the majority learned for the first time, from my inquiries,
+that there was such an institution in existence. So we are all equally
+wise respecting it. Passing beautiful cottages, partially hidden in
+foliage, tasteful villas, and deserted mansions, alternately, our
+attention was attracted by a pretty residence, far from the road, at the
+extremity of an extensive grass-plat, void of shrub or any token of
+horticultural taste. Had the grounds been ornamented, like all others
+in the vicinity, with shrubbery, it would have been one of the loveliest
+residences on the road; but, as it was, its aspect was dreary. We were
+informed that it was the residence of the British consul; but he seems
+to have left his national passion for ornamental gardening, shrubbery
+walks, and park-like grounds, at home; denying himself their luxurious
+shade and agreeable beauty, in a climate where, alone, they are really
+necessary for comfort--where the cool covert of a thickly foliaged tree
+is as great a luxury to a northerner, as a welling fountain in the
+desert to the fainting Arab.
+
+In a short ride from the residence of the consul, we arrived opposite to
+the Ursuline convent, a very large and handsome two-story edifice, with
+a high Spanish roof, heavy cornices, deep windows, half concealed by the
+foliage of orange and lemon trees, and stuccoed, in imitation of rough
+white marble. Three other buildings, of the same size, extended at the
+rear of this main building, forming three sides of the court of the
+convent, of which area this formed the fourth, each building fronting
+within upon the court, as well as without. There are about seventy young
+ladies pursuing a course of education here--some as boarders, and others
+as day scholars. The boarders are kept very rigidly. They are permitted
+to leave the convent, to visit friends in the city, if by permission of
+parents, but once a month. None are allowed to see them, unless they
+first obtain written permission, from the parents or guardians of the
+young ladies.
+
+As my friend had an errand at the convent, we called. Proceeding down a
+long avenue to the portal on the right side of the grounds, we entered,
+and applied our riding whips to the door for admission. We were
+questioned by an unseen querist, as to our business there, as are all
+visiters. The voice issued from a tin plate, perforated with innumerable
+little holes, and resembling a colander fixed in the wall, on one side
+of the entrance. If the visiters give a good account of themselves, and
+can show good cause why they should speak with any of the young ladies,
+they are told to open the door at the left; whereupon, they find
+themselves in a long, dimly-lighted apartment, without any article of
+furniture, except a backless form. Three sides of this room are like any
+other--but, the fourth is open to the inner court, and latticed from the
+ceiling to the floor, like a summer-house. Approaching the lattice, the
+visiter, by placing his eye to the apertures, has a full view of the
+interior, and the three inner fronts of the convent. A double cloister
+extends above and below, and around the whole court; where the young
+ladies may be seen walking, studying, or amusing themselves. She, for
+whom the visiter has inquired, now approaches the grate demurely by the
+side of one of the elderly ladies of the sisterhood; and the visiter,
+placing his lips to an aperture, as to the mouth of a speaking trumpet,
+must address her, and thus carry on his conversation; while the elder
+nun stands within earshot, that peradventure she may thereby be edified.
+
+The young ladies are here well and thoroughly educated;--even dancing
+is not prohibited, and is taught by a professor from the city. The
+religious exercises of the convent are of course Roman Catholic; but no
+farther than the daily routine of formal religious services, are the
+tenets of their faith inculcated upon the minds of the pupils. Some
+Protestant young ladies, allured by the romantic and imposing character
+of the Catholic religion, embrace it: but a few years after leaving the
+convent, are generally sufficient to efface their new faith and bring
+them back to the religion of their childhood. But the instances are very
+rare in which a Protestant becomes a _religieuse_, or leaves the convent
+a Catholic: though a great portion of the young ladies under the charge
+of the Ursuline sisterhood are of Protestant parentage.
+
+The remainder of our ride was past orange gardens and French villas, so
+like all we had passed nearer the city, that they presented no variety;
+after riding a mile below the convent, we turned our horses' heads back
+to the city, and in less than an hour arrived at our hotel just in time
+to sit down to one of Bishop's sumptuous dinners.
+
+
+
+
+XIX.
+
+      Battle-ground--Scenery on the road--A peaceful scene--
+      American and British quarters--View of the field of battle
+      --Breastworks--Oaks--Packenham--A Tennessee rifleman--
+      Anecdote--A gallant British officer--Grape-shot--Young
+      traders--A relic--Leave the ground--A last view of it from
+      the Levee.
+
+
+I have just returned from a visit to the scene of American resolution
+and individual renown--the battle-ground of New-Orleans. The Aceldama,
+where one warrior-chief drove his triumphal car over the grave of
+another--the field of "fame and of glory" from which the "hero of two
+wars" plucked the chaplet which encircles his brow, and the _eclat_
+which has elevated him to a throne!--
+
+The field of battle lies between five and six miles below the city, on
+the left bank, on the New-Orleans side of the river. The road conducting
+us to it, wound pleasantly along the Levee; its unvarying level relieved
+by delightful gardens, and pleasant country seats--(one of which,
+constructed like a Chinese villa, struck me as eminently tasteful and
+picturesque)--skirting it upon one side, and by the noble, lake-like
+Mississippi on the other, which, beating upon its waveless bosom a
+hundred white sails, and a solitary tow-boat leading, like a conqueror,
+a fleet in her train--rolled silently and majestically past to the
+ocean. When, in our own estimation, and, no doubt, in that of our
+horses, we had accomplished the prescribed two leagues, we reined up at
+a steam saw-mill, erected and in full operation on the road-side, and
+inquired for some directions to the spot--not discerning in the peaceful
+plantations before us, any indications of the scene of so fierce a
+struggle as that which took place, when England and America met in proud
+array, and the military standards of each gallantly waved to the "battle
+and the breeze." Although, on ascending the river in the ship, I
+obtained a moonlight glance of the spot, I received no impression of its
+_locale_ sufficiently accurate to enable me to recognise it under
+different circumstances. An extensive, level field was spread out before
+us, apparently the peaceful domain of some planter, who probably resided
+in a little piazza-girted cottage which stood on the banks of the river.
+But this field, we at once decided, could not be the battle-field--so
+quiet and farm-like it reposed. "There," was our reflection, "armies can
+never have met! there, warriors can never have stalked in the pride of
+victory with
+
+    "---- garments rolled in blood!"
+
+Yet peaceful as it slumbered there, that domain had once rung with the
+clangor of war. It _was_ the battle-field! But silence now reigned
+
+      "---- where the free blood gushed
+    When England came arrayed--
+      So many a voice had there been hushed;
+    So many a footstep stayed."
+
+In reply to our inquiries, made of one apparently superintending the
+steam-works, we received simply the tacit "Follow me gentlemen!" We
+gladly accommodated the paces of our spirited horses to those of our
+obliging and very practical informant, who alertly preceded us, blessing
+the stars which had given us so unexpectedly a cicerone, who, from his
+vicinity to the spot must be _au fait_ in all the interesting minutiae of
+so celebrated a place. Following our guide a few hundred yards farther
+down the river-road, we passed on the left hand a one story wooden
+dwelling-house situated at a short distance back from the road, having a
+gallery, or portico in front, and elevated upon a basement story of
+brick, like most other houses built immediately on the river. This, our
+guide informed us, was "the house occupied by General Jackson as
+head-quarters: and there," he continued, pointing to a planter's
+residence two or three miles farther down the river, "is the
+mansion-house of General, (late governor, Villere) which was occupied by
+Sir Edward Packenham as the head-quarters of the British army."
+
+"But the battle-ground--where is that sir?" we inquired, as he silently
+continued his rapid walk in advance of us.
+
+"There it is," he replied after walking on a minute or two longer in
+silence, and turning the corner of a narrow, fenced lane which extended
+from the river to the forest-covered marshes--"there it is,
+gentlemen,"--and at the same time extended his arm in the direction of
+the peaceful plain, which we had before observed,--spread out like a
+carpet, it was so very level--till it terminated in the distant forests,
+by which and the river it was nearly enclosed. Riding a quarter of a
+mile down the lane we dismounted, and leaving our horses in the road,
+sprang over a fence, and in a few seconds stood upon the American
+breast-works!
+
+"When," said a mercurial friend lately, in describing his feelings on
+first standing upon the same spot--"when I leaped upon the embankment,
+my first impulse was to give vent to my excited feelings by a shout that
+might have awakened the mailed sleepers from their sleep of death." Our
+emotions--for strong and strange emotions will be irresistibly excited
+in the breast of every one, "to war's dark scenes unused," on first
+beholding the scene of a sanguinary conflict, between man and man,
+whether it be grisly with carnage, pleasantly waving with the yellow
+harvest, or carpeted with green--our emotions, though perhaps equally
+deep, exhibited themselves very differently. For some moments, after
+gaining our position, we stood wrapped in silence. The wild and terrible
+scenes of which the ground we trod had been the theatre, passed vividly
+before my mind with almost the distinctness of reality, impressing it
+with reflections of a deep and solemn character. I stood upon the graves
+of the fallen! Every footfall disturbed human ashes! Human dust gathered
+upon our shoes as the dust of the plain! My thoughts were too full for
+utterance. "On the very spot where I stand"--thought I, "some gallant
+fellow poured out the best blood of his heart! Here, past me, and
+around me, flowed the sanguinary tide of death!--The fierce
+battle-cry--the bray of trumpets--the ringing of steel on steel--the
+roar of artillery hurling leaden and iron hail against human
+breasts--the rattling of musketry--the shouts of the victor, and the
+groans of the wounded, were here mingled--a whirlwind of noise and
+death!"
+
+"Under those two oaks, which you see about half a mile over the field,
+Sir Edward was borne, by his retreating soldiers, to die"--said our
+guide, suddenly interrupting my momentary reverie. I looked in the
+direction indicated by his finger, and my eyes rested upon a venerable
+oak, towering in solitary grandeur over the field, and overshadowing the
+graves of the slain, who, in great numbers, had been sepultured beneath
+its shadow. How many eyes were fixed, with the fond recollection of
+their village homes amid clustering oaks in distant England, upon this
+noble tree--which, in a few moments, amid the howl of war, were closed
+for ever in the sleep of the dead! Of how many last looks were its
+branches the repositories! How many manly sighs were wafted toward its
+waving summit from the breast of many a brave man, who was never more to
+behold the wave of a green tree upon the pleasant earth!
+
+It has been stated that Sir Edward Packenham fell, and was buried under
+this oak, or these oaks, (for I believe there are two,) but I have been
+informed, since my return from the field, by a gentleman who was
+commander of a troop of horse in the action, that when the British
+retreated, he saw from the parapet the body of General Packenham lying
+alone upon the ground, surrounded by the dead and wounded, readily
+distinguishable by its uniform; and, that during the armistice for the
+burial of the dead, he saw his body borne from the field by the British
+soldiers, who afterward conveyed it with them in their retreat to their
+fleet.
+
+The rampart of earth upon which we stood, presented very little the
+appearance of having ever been a defence for three thousand breasts;
+resembling rather one of the numerous dikes constructed on the
+plantations near the river, to drain the very marshy soil which abounds
+in this region, than the military defences of a field of battle. It was
+a grassy embankment, extending, with the exception of an angle near the
+forest--about a mile in a straight line from the river to the cypress
+swamps in the rear; four feet high, and five or six feet broad. At the
+time of the battle it was the height of a man, and somewhat broader than
+at present, and along the whole front ran a _fosse_, containing five
+feet of water, and of the same breadth as the parapet. This was now
+nearly filled with earth, and could easily be leaped over at any point.
+The embankment throughout the whole extent is much worn, indented and,
+occasionally, levelled with the surface of the plain. Upon the top of
+it, before the battle, eight batteries were erected, with embrasures of
+cotton bales, piled transversely. Under cover of this friendly
+embankment, the Americans lay _perdus_, but not idle, during the
+greater portion of the battle.
+
+A daring Tennessean, with a blanket tied round him, and a hat with a
+brim of enormous breadth, who seemed to be fighting "on his own hook,"
+disdaining to raise his rifle over the bank of earth and fire, in safety
+to his person, like his more wary fellow soldiers, chose to spring,
+every time he fired, upon the breastwork, where, balancing himself, he
+would bring his rifle to his cheek, throw back his broad brim, take
+sight and fire, while the enemy were advancing to the attack, as
+deliberately as though shooting at a herd of deer; then leaping down on
+the inner side, he would reload, mount the works, cock his beaver, take
+aim, and crack again. "This he did," said an English officer, who was
+taken prisoner by him, and who laughingly related it as a good anecdote
+to Captain D----, my informant above alluded to--"five times in rapid
+succession, as I advanced at the head of my company, and though the
+grape whistled through the air over our heads, for the life of me I
+could not help smiling at his grotesque demi-savage, demi-quaker figure,
+as he threw back the broad flap of his castor to obtain a fair
+sight--deliberately raised his rifle--shut his left eye, and blazed away
+at us. I verily believe he brought down one of my men at every shot."
+
+As the British resolutely advanced, though columns fell like the tall
+grain before the sickle at the fire of the Americans, this same officer
+approached at the head of his brave grenadiers amid the rolling fire of
+musketry from the lines of his unseen foes, undaunted and untouched.
+"Advance, my men!" he shouted as he reached the edge of the
+_fosse_--"follow me!" and sword in hand he leaped the ditch, and turning
+amidst the roar and flame of a hundred muskets to encourage his men,
+beheld to his surprise but a single man of his company upon his
+feet--more than fifty brave fellows, whom he had so gallantly led on to
+the attack, had been shot down. As he was about to leap back from his
+dangerous situation, his sword was shivered in his grasp by a rifle
+ball, and at the same instant the daring Tennessean sprang upon the
+parapet and levelled his deadly weapon at his breast, calmly observing,
+"Surrender, strannger--or, I may perforate ye!" "Chagrined," said the
+officer, at the close of his recital, "I was compelled to deliver to the
+bold fellow my mutilated sword, and pass over into the American lines."
+
+"Here," said our guide and cicerone, advancing a few paces up the
+embankment, and placing his foot emphatically upon the ground, "_here_
+fell Renie."
+
+This gallant man, with the calf of his leg shot away by a cannon-ball,
+leaped upon the breast-works with a shout of exultation, and was
+immediately shot through the heart, by an American private. Packenham,
+the favourite _eleve_ of Wellington, and the "beau ideal" of a British
+soldier, after receiving a second wound, while attempting to rally his
+broken columns, fell directly in front of our position, not far from
+where Renie received his death-wound. In the disorder and panic of the
+first retreat of the British, he was left bleeding and forsaken among
+the dead and dying. Not far from this melancholy spot, Gibbes received
+his mortal wound; and near the place where this gallant officer fell,
+one of the staff of the English general was also shot down. The whole
+field was fruitful with scenes of thrilling interest. I should weary you
+by individualizing them. There was scarcely a spot on which I could cast
+my eyes, where a soldier had not poured out his life-blood. "As I stood
+upon the breast-works," said Captain Dunbar, "after the action, the
+field of battle before me was so thickly strewn with dead bodies, that I
+could have walked fifty yards over them without placing my foot upon the
+ground." How revolting the sight of a field thus sown must be to human
+nature! Man must indeed be humbled at such a spectacle.
+
+We walked slowly over the ground, which annually waves with undulating
+harvests of the rich cane. Our guide was intelligent and sufficiently
+communicative without being garrulous. He was familiar with every
+interesting fact associated with the spot, and by his correct
+information rendered our visit both more satisfactory and agreeable than
+it otherwise would have been.
+
+"Here gentilhommes, j'ai finde some bullet for you to buy," shouted a
+little French mulatto at the top of his voice, who, among other boys of
+various hues, had followed us to the field, "me, j'ai trop--too much;"
+and on reaching us, this double-tongued urchin turned his pockets inside
+out and discharged upon the ground a load of rusty grape shot, bullets,
+and fragments of lead--his little stock in trade, some, if not all of
+which, I surmised, had been manufactured for the occasion.
+
+"Did you find them on the battle-ground, garcon?"
+
+"Iss--oui, Messieurs, me did, de long-temps."
+
+I was about to charge him with having prepared his pockets before
+leaving home, when Mr. C. exhibited a grape shot that he had picked from
+the dark soil in which it was half buried. I bought for a piccaiune,[9]
+the smallest currency of the country, the "load of grape," and we
+pursued our walk over the field, listening with much interest to the
+communications of our guide, conjuring up the past scenes of strife and
+searching for balls; which by and by began to thicken upon us so fast,
+that we were disposed to attribute a generative principle to grape-shot.
+We were told by our cicerone that they were found in great numbers by
+the ploughmen, and disposed of to curious visiters. On inquiring of him
+if false ones were not imposed upon the unsuspecting, he replied
+"No--there is no need of that--there is an abundance of those which are
+genuine."
+
+"I'm got half a peck on um to hum, mysef, I'se found," exclaimed a
+little negro in a voice that sounded like the creaking of a shoe,
+bolting off at the same time for the treasure, like one of his own
+cannon-balls. What appalling evidence is this abundance of leaden and
+iron hail strewed over the field, of the terrible character of that
+war-storm which swept so fearfully over it. Flattened and round balls,
+grape of various sizes, and non-descript bits of iron were the principal
+objects picked up in our stroll over the ground.
+
+The night was rapidly approaching--for we had lingered long on this
+interesting spot--and precluded our visit to the oaks, to which it had
+been our intention to extend our walk; and as we turned to retrace our
+steps with our pockets heavy with metal, something rang to the touch of
+my foot, which, on lifting and cleansing it from the loam, we discovered
+to be the butt-piece of a musket. As this was the most valuable relic
+which the field afforded, C. was invested with it, for the purpose of
+placing it in the museum or Codman's amateur collection, for the benefit
+of the curious, when he returns to that land of curious bipeds, where
+such kind of mementos are duly estimated. Twilight had already
+commenced, as, advancing over the same ground across which the gallant
+Packenham led his veteran army, we fearlessly leaped the fosse and,
+unresisted, ascended the parapet. Hastening to free our impatient horses
+from their thraldom, we mounted them, and--not forgetting a suitable
+douceur, by way of "a consideration" to our obliging cicerone--spurred
+for the city. As we arrived at the head of the lane and emerged again
+upon the high-way, I paused for an instant upon the summit of the Levee
+to take a last view of the battle-ground which lay in calm repose under
+the gathering twilight--challenging the strongest exercise of the
+imagination to believe it ever to have borne other than its present
+rural character, or echoed to other sounds than the whistle of the
+careless slave as he cut the luxuriant cane, the gun of the sportsman,
+or the melancholy song of the plough-boy.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[9] Properly, _piccaillon_, but pronounced as in the text. Called in New
+England a "four pence half penny," in New-York a "sixpence," and in
+Philadelphia a "fip."
+
+
+
+
+XX.
+
+      Scenes in a bar-room--Affaires d'honneur--A Sabbath morning
+      --Host--Public square--Military parades--Scenes in the
+      interior of a cathedral--Mass--A sanctified family--Crucifix
+      --Different ways of doing the same thing--Altar--Paintings--
+      The Virgin--Female devotees.
+
+
+The spacious bar-room of our magnificent hotel, as I descended to it on
+Sabbath morning, resounded to the footsteps of a hundred gentlemen, some
+promenading and in earnest conversation--some hastening to, or lounging
+about the bar, that magnet of attraction to thirsty spirits, on which
+was displayed a row of rapidly disappearing glasses, containing the
+tempting, green-leaved, mint-julep--while, along the sides of the large
+room, or clustered around the tall, black columns, which extended
+through the centre of the hall, were others, some _tete a tete_, and
+others again smoking, and sipping in quiet their morning potation. A
+few, with legs _a la Trollope_, upon the tables, were reading stray
+papers, and at the farther extremity of the hall, standing around a
+lofty desk, were ranks of merchants similarly engaged. My northern
+friend, with whom I had planned a visit to the cathedral, met me at the
+door of the hotel, around which, upon the side-walk, was gathered a knot
+of fashionably dressed, cane-wearing young men, talking, all together,
+of a duel that had taken place, or was about to "come off," we could not
+ascertain exactly which, from the few words heard in passing to the
+street. This, by the by, is a frequent theme of conversation here, and
+too often based upon facts to be one of light moment.[10]
+
+The morning was cloudless and beautiful. The air was mild, and for the
+city, elastic and exhilarating. The sun shone down warm and cheerfully,
+enlivening the spirits, and making all things glad with its brightness.
+The whole city had come forth into the streets to enjoy it; and as we
+passed from Camp-street across Canal, into Chartres-street, all the gay
+inhabitants, one would verily believe, had turned out as to a gala. The
+long, narrow streets were thronged with moving multitudes, and flashing
+with scarfs, ribbons, and feathers. Children, with large expressive
+eyes, and clustering locks, their heads surmounted with tasselled caps
+and fancy hats, arrayed in their "brightest and best," bounded along
+behind their more soberly arrayed, but not less gay parents, followed by
+gaudily dressed slaves, who chattered incessantly with half-suppressed
+laughter to their acquaintances on the opposite trottoir. Clerks, just
+such looking young men as you will meet on Sabbath mornings in Broadway,
+or Cornhill--released from their six days' confinement--lounged by us
+arm in arm, as fine as the tailor and hair-dresser could make them.
+Crowds, or gangs of American and English sailors, mingling most
+companionably, on a cruise through the city, rolled jollily along--the
+same careless independent fellows that they are all the world over. I
+have observed that in foreign ports, the seamen of these once hostile
+nations link together like brothers. This is as it should be. The good
+feeling existing generally among all classes of Americans toward the
+mother country, must be gratifying both to reflecting Americans and to
+Englishmen. These sons of Neptune were all dressed nearly alike in blue
+jackets, and full white trowsers, with black silk handkerchiefs knotted
+carelessly around their necks, and confined by some nautical breast-pin,
+in the shape of a foul anchor, a ship under her three top-sails, or
+plain gold hearts, pierced by arrows. Sailors are very sentimental
+fellows on shore! In direct contrast to these frank-looking, open-browed
+tars, who yawed along the side-walk, as a landsman would walk on a
+ship's deck at sea, we passed, near the head of Bienville-street, a
+straggling crew of some Spanish trader, clothed in tarry pantaloons and
+woollen shirts, and girt about with red and blue sashes, bucanier
+fashion, with filthy black whiskers, and stealthy glowing eyes, who
+glided warily along with lowering brows. The unsailor-like French
+sailor--the half horse and half alligator Kentucky boatman--the
+gentlemanly, carelessly-dressed cotton planter--the pale valetudinarian,
+from the north, whose deep sunken eye told of suicidal vigils over the
+midnight lamp--a noble looking foreigner, and a wretched beggar--a troop
+of Swiss emigrants, from the grand sire to the infant, and a gang of
+Erin's toil-worn exiles--all mingled _en masse_--swept along in this
+living current; while, gazing down upon the moving multitude from lofty
+balconies, were clusters of bright eyes, and sunny faces flashed from
+every window.
+
+As we approached the cathedral, a dark-hued and finely moulded quadroon,
+with only a flowing veil upon her head, glided majestically past us. The
+elegant olive-browned Louisianese--the rosy-cheeked maiden from _La
+belle riviere_--the Parisian gentilhomme--a dignified, light-mustachoed
+palsgrave, and a portly sea-captain--the haughty Englishman and prouder
+southerner--a blanketed Choctaw, and a negro in uniform--slaves and
+freed-men of every shade, elbowed each other very familiarly as they
+traversed in various directions the crowded side-walks.
+
+Crossing rue St. Louis, we came in collision with a party of gens
+d'armes with drawn swords in their hands, which they used as walking
+canes, leading an unlucky culprit to the calaboose--that "black-hole" of
+the city. Soldiers in splendid uniforms, with clashing and jingling
+accoutrements, were continually hurrying past us to parade. At the
+corner of Toulouse-street we met a straggling procession of bare-headed,
+sturdy-looking priests, in soiled black surplices and fashionable boots,
+preceded by half a dozen white-robed boys, bare-legged and dirty. By
+this dignified procession, among which the crowd promiscuously mingled
+as they passed along, and whose august approach is usually notified by
+the jingling of the "sacring bell," was borne the sacred "host." They
+hastily passed us, shoved and jostled by the crowd, who scarcely gave
+way to them as they hastened on their ghostly message. These things are
+done differently in Buenos Ayres or Rio Janeiro, where such a procession
+is escorted by an armed guard, and a bayonet thrust, or a night in a
+Spanish prison, is the penalty for neglecting to genuflect, or uncover
+the heretical head. As we issued from Chartres-street--where all
+"nations and kingdoms and tongues" seemed to have united to form its
+pageant of life--upon the esplanade in front of the cathedral, we were
+surprised by the sound of martial music pealing clearly above the
+confusion of tongues, the tramp of feet, and the rattling of carriages.
+On and around the noble green, soldiers in various uniforms, some of
+them of a gorgeous and splendid description, were assembling for
+parade. Members of the creole regiment--the finest body of military men
+I ever beheld, with the exception of a Brazilian regiment of
+blacks--were rapidly marshalling in the square. And mounted hussars,
+with lofty caps and in glittering mail, were thundering in from the
+various streets, their spurs, chains and sabres, ringing and jingling
+warlike music, as they dashed up to the rendezvous.
+
+At the head of this noble square, so variegated and tumultuous with its
+dazzling mimicry of war, rose in solemn and imposing grandeur the
+venerable cathedral, lifting its heavy towers high above the emmet-crowd
+beneath. Its doors, in front of which was extended a line of carriages,
+were thronged with a motley crowd, whose attention was equally divided
+between the religious ceremonies within the temple and the military
+display without. We forced our way through the mass, which was composed
+of strangers like ourselves--casual spectators--servants--hack-drivers
+--fruit sellers, and some few, who, like the publican, worshipped "afar
+off."
+
+It was the celebration of the Eucharist. Within, crowds were kneeling
+upon the pavement under the corridor and along the aisles--some in
+attitudes of the profoundest humility and awe. Others were kneeling, as
+nominal Protestants stand in prayer, without intention or feeling of
+humility; but merely assuming the posture as a matter of form. Among
+these last were many young Frenchmen, whose pantaloons were kept from
+soiling by white handkerchiefs as they kneeled, playing with their
+watch-guards, twirling their narrow-brimmed silk hats, or gazing idly
+about over the prostrate multitude. Here and there kneeled a fine female
+figure; and dark eyes from artfully arranged veils wandered every where
+but over the missal, clasped in unconscious fingers. At the base of a
+massive column two fair girls, kneeling side by side, were laughingly
+whispering together. But there were also venerable sires with locks of
+snow, and aged matrons, and manly forms of men, and graceful women,
+maidens and children, who bowed with their faces to the ground in deep
+devotion. As we entered, the solemn peal of an organ, mingled with the
+deep toned voices of the priests chanting the imposing mass, rolled over
+the prostrate assembly; at the same moment the host was elevated and the
+multitude, bowing their foreheads to the pavement, profoundly adored
+this Roman _schechinah_, or _visible_ presence of the Saviour.
+
+Having, with some difficulty, worked our way through the worshippers,
+who, after the solemn service of the consecration of the bread and wine
+was finished, arose from their knees, we gained an eligible situation by
+one of the pillars which support the vaulted roof, and there took our
+post of observation. A marble font of holy water stood near us on our
+right hand, into which all true Catholics who entered or departed from
+the church, dipped the tip of a finger, with the greatest possible
+veneration; and therewith--the while moving their lips with a brief,
+indistinctly-heard prayer--crossed themselves upon both the forehead and
+the breast. This ceremony was also performed by proxy. A very handsome
+French lady entered the church, while we leaned against the column, and
+advancing directly to the font, dipped her ungloved finger into the
+consecrated laver, made the sign of the cross first upon her own fine
+forehead, and then turning, stooped down and crossed affectionately and
+prayerfully the pure, olive brows of two beautiful little girls who
+followed her, and the forehead of an infant borne in the arms of a
+slave; who, dipping her tawny fingers in the water, blessed her own
+black forehead; and then all passed up the aisle toward the altar--a
+sanctified family! How like infant baptism, this beautiful and affecting
+little scene of a mother thus blessing in the sincerity of her heart,
+her innocent offspring! White, black, and yellow--the rich and the poor,
+the freeman and slave, all dipped in the same font--were all blessed by
+the same water. A beautiful emblem of the undistinguishing blood of the
+Saviour of the world!
+
+Not far from this holy vessel, behind a table or temporary altar, sat a
+man with a scowling brow and a superstitious eye, coarsely dressed,
+without vest or cravat. Before him lay a large salver strewed in great
+profusion with pieces of silver coin from a _bit_ to a dollar. On the
+centre, and only part of the waiter not piled with money, lay a silver
+crucifix. At the moment this display caught our eyes, and before we had
+time to form any conjectures as to its object, a mulatress gave us the
+desired explanation. Crossing from the broad aisle of the church, she
+reverently approached the spot and kneeling before the altar, added a
+quarter of a dollar to the glittering pile, and bending over, kissed
+first the feet, then the knees, hands, and wounded side of the image,
+while real tears flowed down her saffron cheeks. Elevating her prostrate
+form, she passed to the font, dipped her finger in the holy water and
+disappeared amid the crowd at the door. A gay demoiselle tripping
+lightly past us, bent on one knee before the waiter, threw down upon it
+a heavy piece of silver, and, less humble than the one who had preceded
+her, imprinted a kiss upon the metal lips of the image and glided from
+the cathedral. She was followed by a lame negro, darker than Othello,
+uglier and more clumsy than Caliban, who for a piccaiune, which tinkled
+upon the salver, had the privilege of saluting the senseless image from
+head to foot in the most devotional and lavish manner. A little child,
+led by its nurse, followed, and timidly, at the direction of its
+coloured governess, kissed the calm and expansive forehead of the
+sculptured idol. During the half hour we remained, there was a continual
+flow of the current of devotees to this spot, in their way to and from
+the high altar. But I observed that ten blacks approached the crucifix
+for every white!
+
+This altar with its enriched salver is merely a Roman Catholic
+"contribution-box,"--a new way of doing an old thing. Some of the
+Protestant churches resound with a sacred hymn, or the voice of the
+clergyman reading a portion of the liturgy or discipline, calculated to
+inspire charitable feelings, while the contribution-box or bag makes its
+begging tour among the pews. In the cathedral the same feelings are
+excited by an appeal to the senses through the silent exhibition of the
+sufferings of the Redeemer. With one, the ear is the road to the heart,
+with the other, the eye; but if it is only reached, it were useless to
+quibble about the medium of application.
+
+I lingered long after the great body of the congregation had departed.
+Here and there, before a favourite shrine--the tutelary guardian of the
+devotee--kneeled only a solitary individual. Close by my side, before
+the pictured representation of a martyrdom, bent a female form enveloped
+in mourning robes, her features concealed in the folds of a rich black
+veil. Far off, before the distant shrine of the Virgin Mother, knelt a
+very old man engaged in inaudible prayer, with his head pressed upon the
+cold stone pavement. Slowly and reflectingly I paced the deserted aisles
+toward the high altar, which stood in the midst of a splendid and
+dazzling creation of gold and silver, rich colouring, architectural
+finery, and gorgeous decorations, burning tapers, and candlesticks like
+silver pillars; the whole extending from the pavement to the ceiling,
+and all so mingled and confused in the religious gloom of the church,
+that I was unable to analyse or form any distinct idea of it. But the
+_coup d'oeil_ was unrivalled by any display I had ever seen in an
+American temple.
+
+At the lower termination of the side aisles of the cathedral, stood dark
+mahogany confessionals, with blinds at the sides--reminding one of
+sentry boxes. These, however, were deserted and apparently seldom
+occupied. Sins must be diminished here, or penitents have grown more
+discreet than in former times! In a little while the cathedral, save by
+a poor woman kneeling devoutly before a wretched picture, which I took
+to be a representation of the martyrdom of saint Peter, became silent
+and deserted. While gazing upon the image of the Virgin Mary, arrayed
+like a prima donna, and profusely decorated with finery, standing
+pensively within an isolated niche, to the left of the grand altar, a
+slight noise, and the simultaneous agitation of a curtain, drew my
+attention to the entrance of a trio of young ladies, through a side door
+hitherto concealed behind the arras, preceded by an elderly
+brown-complexioned lady, of the most duenna-like physiognomy and
+bearing. Without noticing the presence of a stranger and a heretic--for
+I was gazing most undevoutly and heretically upon the jewelled image
+before me as they entered--they dipped the tips of their fingers in a
+font of holy water which stood by the entrance--passed into the centre
+aisle in front of the great crucifix, and kneeling in a cluster upon a
+rich carpet, spread upon the pavement over the crypts of the
+distinguished dead, by a female slave who attended them, were at once
+engaged in the most absorbing devotion. After a short period they
+arose--bowed sweepingly to the crucifix, genuflected most gracefully
+with a sort of familiar nod of recognition before the shrine of the
+Virgin, and moistening the ends of their fingers again in the marble
+basin, quietly disappeared.
+
+I was now alone in the vast building. Though the current of human life
+flowed around its walls, with a great tumult of mingled sounds, yet only
+a noise, like the faintly heard murmuring of distant surf, penetrated
+its massive walls, and broke a silence like that of the grave which
+reigned within. The illustrious dead slept beneath the hollow pavement,
+which echoed to my footfall like a vaulted sepulchre. The ghastly images
+of slaughtered men looked down upon me from the walls, with agony
+depicted on their pale and unearthly countenances, seen indistinctly
+through the dim twilight of the place. The melancholy tapers burned
+faintly before the deserted shrines, increasing, rather than
+illuminating the gloom of the venerable temple. Gradually, under the
+combined influence of these gloomy objects, I felt a solemnity stealing
+over me, awed and depressed by the tomb-like repose that reigned around.
+Suddenly the clear light of noon-day flashed in through the drawn
+curtain, and another worshipper entered. Turning to take a last glance
+at the interior of this imposing fabric, so well calculated to excite
+the religious feelings of even a descendant of the Puritans, I drew
+aside the curtain, and the next moment was involved in the life, bustle,
+and tumult of the streets of a large city, whose noise, confusion, and
+bright sunshine contrasted strangely with the perfect stillness and "dim
+religious light" of the cathedral.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[10] The rage for duelling is at such a pitch, that a jest or smart
+repartee is sufficient excuse for a challenge, in which powder and ball
+are the arguments. The Court of honour has proved unsuccessful in its
+operation, and no person, it is said, has yet dared to stem the current
+of popular opinion. The accuracy of the Creoles, with the pistol, is
+said to be astonishing, and no youngster springing into life, is
+considered entitled to the claims of manhood, until made the mark of an
+adversary's bullet. In their shooting galleries, the test of their aim
+is firing at a button at ten or twelve paces distance, suspended by a
+wire, which, when struck, touches a spring that discloses a flag. There
+are but few who miss more than once in three times. An appointment for a
+duel is talked of with the _nonchalance_ of an invitation to a dinner or
+supper party.
+
+
+
+
+XXI.
+
+      Sabbath in New-Orleans--Theatre--Interior--A New-Orleans
+      audience--Performance--Checks--Theatre d'Orleans--Interior
+      --Boxes--Audience--Play--Actors and actresses--Institutions
+      --M. Poydras--Liberality of the Orleanese--Extracts from
+      Flint upon New-Orleans.
+
+
+"Do you attend the _Theatre d'Orleans_ to night?" inquired a young
+Bostonian, forgetful of his orthodox habits--last Sabbath evening,
+twirling while he spoke a ticket in his fingers--"you know the
+maxim--when one is in Rome"--
+
+"I have not been here quite long enough yet to apply the rule," said I;
+"is not the theatre open on other evenings of the week?" "Very seldom,"
+he replied, "unless in the gayest part of the season--though I believe
+there is to be a performance some night this week; I will ascertain when
+and accompany you."
+
+You are aware that the rituals, or established forms of the Roman
+church, do not prohibit amusements on this sacred day. The Sabbath,
+consequently, in a city, the majority of whose inhabitants are
+Catholics, is not observed as in the estimation of New-Englanders, or
+Protestants it should be. The lively Orleanese defend the custom of
+crowding their theatres, attending military parades, assembling in
+ball-rooms, and mingling in the dangerous masquerade on this day, by
+wielding the scriptural weapon--"the Sabbath was made for man--not man
+for the Sabbath;" and then making their own inductions, they argue that
+the Sabbath is, literally, as the term imports, a day of rest, and not a
+day of religious labour. They farther argue, that religion was bestowed
+upon man, not to lessen, but to augment his happiness--and that it ought
+therefore to infuse a spirit of cheerfulness and hilarity into the
+mind--for cheerfulness is the twin-sister of religion.
+
+Last evening, as I entered my room, after a visit to two noble packet
+ships just arrived from New-York, which as nearly resemble "floating
+palaces" as any thing not described in the Arabian tales well can--I
+discovered, lying upon my table, a ticket for the American or
+Camp-street theatre, folded in a narrow slip of a play-bill, which
+informed me that the laughable entertainment of the "Three Hunchbacks,"
+with the interesting play of "Cinderella," was to constitute the
+performance of the night: Cinderella, that tale which, with Blue Beard,
+the Forty Thieves, and some others, has such charms for children, and
+which, represented on the stage, has the power to lead stern man, with
+softened feelings, back to infancy. In a few moments afterward my Boston
+friend, who had left the ticket in my room, came in with another for the
+French theatre, giving me a choice between the two. I decided upon
+attending both, dividing the evening between them. After tea we sallied
+out, in company with half of those who were at the supper-table, on our
+way to the theatre. The street and adjacent buildings shone brilliantly,
+with the glare of many lamps suspended from the theatre and coffee
+houses in the vicinity. A noisy crowd was gathered around the
+ticket-office--the side-walks were filled with boys and negroes--and the
+curb-stone was lined with coloured females, each surrounded by bonbons,
+fruit, nuts, cakes, pies, gingerbread, and all the other et cetera of a
+"cake-woman's commodity." Entering the theatre, which is a plain
+handsome edifice, with a stuccoed front, and ascending a broad flight of
+steps, we passed across the first lobby, down a narrow aisle, opened
+through the centre of the boxes into the pit or _parquette_, as it is
+here termed, which is considered the most eligible and fashionable part
+of the house. This is rather reversing the order of things as found with
+us at the north. The pews, or slips--for the internal arrangement, were
+precisely like those of a church--were cushioned with crimson materials,
+and filled with bonnetless ladies, with their heads dressed _a la
+Madonna_. We seated ourselves near the orchestra. The large green
+curtain still concealed the mimic world behind it; and I embraced the
+few moments of delay previous to its rising, to gaze upon this Thespian
+temple of the south, and a New Orleans audience.
+
+The "parquette" was brilliant with bright eyes and pretty faces; and
+upon the bending galaxy of ladies which glittered in the front of the
+boxes around it, I seemed to gaze through the medium of a rainbow. There
+were, it must be confessed, some plain enough faces among them; but, at
+the first glance of the eye, one might verily have believed himself
+encircled by a gallery of houris. The general character of their faces
+was decidedly American; exactly such as one gazes upon at the Tremont or
+Park theatre; and I will henceforward eschew physiognomy, if "I guess"
+would not have dropped more naturally from the lips of one half who were
+before me, while conversing, than "I reckon." There were but few French
+faces among the females; but, with two or three exceptions, these were
+extremely pretty. Most of the delicately-reared Creoles, or Louisianian
+ladies, are eminently beautiful. A Psyche-like fascination slumbers in
+their dark, eloquent eyes, whose richly fringed lids droop timidly over
+them--softening but not diminishing their brilliance. Their style of
+beauty is _unique_, and not easily classed. It is neither French nor
+English, but a combination of both, mellowed and enriched under a
+southern sky.--They are just such creatures as Vesta and Venus would
+have moulded, had they united to form a faultless woman.
+
+The interior of the house was richly decorated; and the panelling in the
+interior of the boxes was composed of massive mirror-plates, multiplying
+the audience with a fine effect. The stage was lofty, extensive, and so
+constructed, either intentionally or accidentally, as to reflect the
+voice with unusual precision and distinctness. The scenery was in
+general well executed: one of the forest scenes struck me as remarkably
+true to nature, both in colouring and design. While surveying the gaudy
+interior, variegated with gilding, colouring, and mirrors, the usual cry
+of "Down, down?--Hats off," warned us to be seated. The performance was
+good for the pieces represented. The company, with the indefatigable
+Caldwell at its head, is strong and of a respectable character. When the
+second act was concluded we left the house; and passing through a
+parti-coloured mob, gathered around the entrance, and elbowing a gens
+d'armes or two, stationed in the lobby _in terrorem_ to the turbulent--
+we gained the street, amidst a shouting of "Your check, sir! your check!
+--Give me your check--Please give me your check!--check!--check!--check!"
+from a host of boys, who knocked one another about unmercifully in their
+exertions to secure the prizes, which, to escape a mobbing, we threw
+into the midst of them; and jumping into a carriage in waiting, drove
+off to the French theatre, leaving them embroiled in a _pele mele_, in
+which the sciences of phlebotomy and phrenology were "being" tested by
+very practical applications.
+
+After a drive of half a league or more through long and narrow streets,
+dimly lighted by swinging lamps, we were set down at the door of the
+Theatre d'Orleans, around which a crowd was assembled of as different a
+character, from that we had just escaped, as would have met our eyes had
+we been deposited before the _Theatre Royale_ in Paris. The street was
+illuminated from the brilliantly lighted cafes and cabarets, clustered
+around this "nucleus" of gayety and amusement. As we crossed the broad
+_pave_ into the vestibule of the theatre, the rapidly enunciated, nasal
+sounds of the French language assailed our ears from every side.
+Ascending the stairs and entering the boxes, I was struck with the
+liveliness and brilliancy of the scene, which the interior exhibited to
+the eye. "Magnificent!" was upon my lips--but a moment's observation
+convinced me that its brilliancy was an illusion, created by numerous
+lights, and an artful arrangement and lavish display of gilding and
+colouring. The whole of the interior, including the stage decorations
+and scenic effect, was much inferior to that of the house we had just
+quitted. The boxes--if caverns resembling the interior of a ship's
+long-boat, with one end elevated three feet, and equally convenient, can
+be so called--were cheerless and uncomfortable. There were but few
+females in the house, and none of these were in the pit, as at the other
+theatre. Among them I saw but two or three pretty faces; and evidently
+none were of the first class of French society in this city. The house
+was thinly attended, presenting, wherever I turned my eyes, a "beggarly
+account of empty boxes." I found that I had chosen a night, of all
+others, the least calculated to give me a good idea of a French
+audience, in a cis-Atlantic French theatre. After remaining half an
+hour, wearied with a tiresome _ritornello_ of a popular French
+air--listening with the devotion of a "Polytechnique" to the
+blood-stirring Marseillaise hymn--amused at the closing scene of a
+laughable comedie, and edified by the first of a pantomime, and
+observing, that with but one lovely exception, the Mesdames _du scene_
+were very plain, and the Messieurs very handsome, we left the theatre
+and returned to our hotel, whose deserted bar-room, containing here and
+there a straggler, presented a striking contrast to the noise and bustle
+of the multitude by which it was thronged at noon-day. In general,
+strangers consider the _tout ensemble_ of this theatre on Sabbath
+evenings, and on others when the elite of the New-Orleans society is
+collected there, decidedly superior to that of any other in the United
+States.
+
+Beside the theatres there are other public buildings in this city,
+deserving the attention of a stranger, whose institution generally
+reflects the highest eulogium upon individuals, and the public. The
+effects of the benevolence of the generous M. Poydras, will for ever
+remain monuments of his piety and of the nobleness of his nature.
+Generation after generation will rise up from the bosom of this great
+city and "call him blessed." The charitable institutions of this city
+are lights which redeem the darker shades of its moral picture. Regarded
+as originators of benevolence, carried out into efficient operation, the
+Orleanese possess a moral beauty in their character as citizens and men,
+infinitely transcending that of many other cities ostensibly living
+under a higher code of morals. In the male and female orphan asylums,
+which are distinct institutions, endowed by the donations of M.
+Poydras--in a library for the use of young men, and in her hospitals and
+various charitable institutions, mostly sustained by Roman Catholic
+influence and patronage, whose doors are ever open to the stranger and
+the moneyless--the poor and the lame--the halt and the blind--and
+unceasingly send forth, during the fearful scourges which lay waste this
+ill-fated city, angels of mercy in human forms to heal the sick--comfort
+the dying--bind up the broken-hearted--feed the hungry, and clothe the
+naked--in these institutions--the ever living monuments of her
+humanity--New-Orleans, reviled as she has been abroad, holds a high rank
+among the cities of Christendom.
+
+An original and able writer, with one or two extracts from whom I will
+conclude this letter, in allusion to this city says--"the French here,
+as elsewhere, display their characteristic urbanity and politeness, and
+are the same gay, dancing, spectacle-loving people, that they are found
+to be in every other place. There is, no doubt, much gambling and
+dissipation practised here, and different licensed gambling houses pay a
+large tax for their licenses. Much has been said abroad about the
+profligacy of manners and morals here. Amidst such a multitude, composed
+in a great measure of the low people of all nations, there must of
+course be much debauchery and low vice. But all the disgusting forms of
+vice, debauchery and drunkenness, are assorted together in their own
+place. Each man has an elective attraction to men of his own standing
+and order.
+
+"This city necessarily exercises a very great influence over all the
+western country. There is no distinguished merchant, or planter, or
+farmer, in the Mississippi valley, who has not made at least one trip
+to this place. Here they see acting at the French and American theatres.
+Here they go to see at least, if not to take a part in, the pursuits of
+the "roulette and temple of Fortune." Here they come from the remote and
+isolated points of the west to behold the "city lions," and learn the
+ways of men in great towns; and they necessarily carry back an
+impression, from what they have seen, and heard. It is of inconceivable
+importance to the western country, that New-Orleans should be
+enlightened, moral, and religious. It has a numerous and respectable
+corps of professional men, and issues a considerable number of well
+edited papers.
+
+"The police of the city is at once mild and energetic. Notwithstanding
+the multifarious character of the people, collected from every country
+and every climate, notwithstanding the multitude of boatmen and sailors,
+notwithstanding the mass of the people that rushes along the streets is
+of the most incongruous materials, there are fewer broils and quarrels
+here than in almost any other city. The municipal and the criminal
+courts are prompt in administering justice, and larcenies and broils are
+effectually punished without any just grounds of complaint about the
+"law's delay." On the whole we conclude, that the morals of those
+people, who profess to have any degree of self-respect, are not behind
+those of the other cities of the Union.
+
+"Much has been said abroad, in regard to the unhealthiness of this city;
+and the danger of a residence here for an unacclimated person has been
+exaggerated. This circumstance, more than all others, has retarded its
+increase. The chance of an unacclimated young man from the north, for
+surviving the first summer, is by some considered only as one to two.
+Unhappily, when the dog-star is in the sky, there is but too much
+probability that the epidemic will sweep the place with the besom of
+destruction. Hundreds of the unacclimated poor from the north, and more
+than half from Ireland, fall victims to it. But the city is now
+furnished with noble water works; and is in this way supplied with the
+healthy and excellent water of the river. Very great improvements have
+been recently made and are constantly making, in paving the city, in
+removing the wooden sewers, and replacing them by those of stone. The
+low places, where the waters used to stagnate, are drained, or filled
+up. Tracts of swamp about the town are also draining, or filling up; and
+this work, constantly pursued, will probably contribute more to the
+salubrity of the city, than all the other efforts to this end united."
+
+
+
+
+XXII.
+
+      A drive into the country--Pleasant road--Charming villa
+      --Children at play--Governess--Diversities of society--
+      Education in Louisiana--Visit to a sugar-house--Description
+      of sugar-making, &c.--A plantation scene--A planter's
+      grounds--Children--Trumpeter--Pointer--Return to the city.
+
+
+This is the last day of my sojourn in the great emporium of the
+south-west. To-morrow will find me threading the majestic sinuosities of
+the Mississippi, the prisoner of one of its mammoth steamers, on my way
+to the state whose broad fields and undulating hills are annually
+whitened with the fleece-like cotton, and whose majestic forests glitter
+with the magnificent and silvery magnolia--where the men are chivalrous,
+generous, and social, and the women so lovely,
+
+    ---- "that the same lips and eyes
+    They wear on earth will serve in Paradise."
+
+A gentleman to whom I brought a letter of introduction called
+yesterday--a strange thing for men so honoured to do--and invited me to
+ride with him to his plantation, a few miles from the city. He drove his
+own phaeton, which was drawn by two beautiful long-tailed bays. After a
+drive of a mile and a half, we cleared the limits of the straggling, and
+apparently interminable faubourgs, and, emerging through a long narrow
+street upon the river road, bounded swiftly over its level surface,
+which was as smooth as a bowling-green--saving a mud-hole now and then,
+where a crevasse had let in upon it a portion of the Mississippi. An
+hour's drive, after clearing the suburbs, past a succession of isolated
+villas, encircled by slender columns and airy galleries, and surrounded
+by richly foliaged gardens, whose fences were bursting with the
+luxuriance which they could scarcely confine, brought us in front of a
+charming residence situated at the head of a broad, gravelled avenue,
+bordered by lemon and orange trees, forming in the heat of summer, by
+arching naturally overhead, a cool and shady promenade. We drew up at
+the massive gateway and alighted. As we entered the avenue, three or
+four children were playing at its farther extremity, with noise enough
+for Christmas holidays; two of them were trundling hoops in a race, and
+a third sat astride of a non-locomotive wooden horse, waving a tin
+sword, and charging at half a dozen young slaves, who were testifying
+their bellicose feelings by dancing and shouting around him with the
+noisiest merriment.
+
+"Pa! pa!" shouted the hoop-drivers as they discovered our approach--"Oh,
+there's pa!" re-echoed the pantalette dragoon, dismounting from his dull
+steed, and making use of his own chubby legs as the most speedy way of
+advancing, "oh, my papa!"--and, sword and hoops in hand, down they all
+came upon the run to meet us, followed helter-skelter by their ebony
+troop, who scattered the gravel around them like hail as they raced,
+turning summersets over each other, without much diminution of their
+speed. They came down upon us altogether with such momentum, that we
+were like to be carried from our feet by this novel charge of _infantry_
+and laid _hors du combat_, upon the ground. The playful and affectionate
+congratulations over between the noble little fellows and their parent,
+we walked toward the house, preceded by our trundlers, with the young
+soldier hand-in-hand between us, followed close behind by the little
+Africans, whose round shining eyes glistened wishfully--speaking as
+plainly as eyes could speak the strong desire, with which their
+half-naked limbs evidently sympathized by their restless motions, to
+bound ahead, contrary to decorum, "wid de young massas!"
+
+Around the semi-circular flight of steps, ascending to the piazza of the
+dwelling,--the columns of which were festooned with the golden jasmine
+and luxuriant multiflora,--stood, in large green vases, a variety of
+flowers, among which I observed the tiny flowerets of the diamond
+myrtle, sparkling like crystals of snow, scattered upon rich green
+leaves--the dark foliaged Arabian jasmine silvered with its
+opulently-leaved flowers redolent of the sweetest perfume,--and the
+rose-geranium, breathing gales of fragrance upon the air. From this
+point the main avenue branches to the right and left, into narrower, yet
+not less beautiful walks, which, lined with evergreen and flowering
+shrubs, completely encircled the cottage. At the head of the flight of
+steps which led from this Hesperean spot to the portico, we were met by
+a little golden-haired fairy, as light in her motion as a zephyr, and
+with a cheek--not alabaster, indeed, for that is an exotic in the
+south--but like a lily, shaded by a rose leaf, and an eye of the purest
+hue, melting in its own light. With an exclamation of delight she sprang
+into her father's arms. I was soon seated upon one of the settees in the
+piazza,--whose front and sides were festooned by the folds of a green
+curtain--in a high frolic with the trundlers, the dismounted dragoon and
+my little winged zephyr. You know my _penchant_ for children's society.
+I am seldom happier than when watching a group of intelligent and
+beautiful little ones at play. For those who can in after life enter
+_con amore_, into the sports of children, tumble with and be tumbled
+about by them, it is like living their childhood over again. Every romp
+with them is death to a score of gray hairs. Their games, moreover,
+present such a contrast to the rougher contests of bearded children in
+the game of life, where money, power, and ambition are the stake, that
+it is refreshing to look at them and mingle with them, even were it only
+to realize that human nature yet retains something of its divine
+original.
+
+The proprietor of the delightful spot which lay spread out around me--a
+lake of foliage--fringed by majestic forest trees, and diversified with
+labyrinthyne walks,--had, the preceding summer, consigned to the tomb
+the mother of his "beautiful ones." They were under the care of a
+dignified lady, his sister, and the widow of a gentleman formerly
+distinguished as a lawyer in New-England. But like many other northern
+ladies, whose names confer honour upon our literature, and whose talents
+elevate and enrich our female seminaries of education, she had
+independence enough to rise superior to her widowed indigence; and had
+prepared to open a boarding school at the north, when the death of his
+wife led her wealthier brother to invite her to supply a mother's place
+to his children, to whom she was now both mother and governess. The
+history of this lady is that of hundreds of her country-women. There
+are, I am informed, many instances in the south-west, of New-England's
+daughters having sought, with the genuine spirit of independence, thus
+to repair their broken fortunes. The intelligent and very agreeable lady
+of the late President H., of Lexington, resides in the capacity of
+governess in a distinguished Louisianian family, not far from the city.
+Mrs. Thayer, formerly an admired poet and an interesting writer of
+fiction, is at the head of a seminary in an adjoining state. And in the
+same, the widow of the late president of its college is a private
+instructress in the family of a planter. And these are instances, to
+which I can add many others, in a country where the occupation of
+instructing, whether invested in the president of a college or in the
+teacher of a country school, is degraded to a secondary rank. In
+New-England, on the contrary, the lady of a living collegiate president
+is of the elite, decidedly, if not at the head, of what is there termed
+"good society." Here, the same lady, whether a visiter for the winter,
+or a settled resident, must yield in rank--as the laws of southern
+society have laid it down--to the lady of the planter. The southerners,
+however, when they can secure one of our well-educated northern ladies
+in their families, know well how to appreciate their good fortune.
+Inmates of the family, they are treated with politeness and kindness;
+but in the soiree, dinner party, or levee, the governess is thrown more
+into the back-ground than she would be in a gentleman's family, even in
+aristocratic England; and her title to an equality with the gay, and
+fashionable, and wealthy circle by whom she is surrounded, and her
+challenge to the right of _caste_, is less readily admitted. But this
+illiberal jealousy is the natural consequence of the crude state of
+American society, where the line of demarcation between its rapidly
+forming classes is yet so uncertainly defined, that each individual who
+is anxious to be, or even to be thought, of the better file, has to walk
+circumspectly, lest he should inadvertently be found mingling with the
+_canaille_. The more uncertain any individual is of his own true
+standing, the more haughtily and suspiciously will he stand aloof, and
+measure with his eye every stranger who advances within the limits of
+the prescribed circle.
+
+Education in this state has been and is still very much neglected.
+Appropriations have been made for public schools; but, from the fund
+established for the purpose, not much has as yet been effected. Many of
+the males, after leaving the city-schools, or the care of tutors, are
+sent, if destined for a professional career, to the northern colleges;
+others to the Catholic institutions at St. Louis and Bardstown, and a
+few of the wealthier young gentlemen to France. The females are
+educated, either by governesses, at the convents, or at northern
+boarding-schools. Many of them are sent to Paris when very young, and
+there remain until they have completed their education. The majority of
+the higher classes of the French population are brought up there. This
+custom of foreign education--like that in the Atlantic states, under the
+old regime, when, to be educated a gentleman, it was considered
+necessary for American youth to enter at Eton, and graduate from Oxford
+or Cambridge--must have a very natural tendency to preserve and cherish
+an attachment for France, seriously detrimental to genuine
+patriotism.--But all this is a digression.
+
+After a kind of bachelor's dinner, in a hall open on two sides for
+ventilation, even at this season of the year--sumptuous enough for
+Epicurus, and served by two or three young slaves, who were drilled to a
+glance of the eye--crowned by a luxurious dessert of fruits and
+sweet-meats, and graced with wine, not of the _chasse-cousin vintage_,
+so common in New England, but of the pure _outre-mer_--we proceeded to
+the sugar-house or _sucrerie_, through a lawn which nearly surrounded
+the ornamental grounds about the house, studded here and there with
+lofty trees, which the good taste of the original proprietor of the
+domain had left standing in their forest majesty. From this rich green
+sward, on which two or three fine saddle-horses were grazing, we passed
+through a turn-stile into a less lovely, but more domestic enclosure,
+alive with young negroes, sheep, turkeys, hogs, and every variety of
+domestic animal that could be attached to a plantation. From this
+diversified collection, which afforded a tolerable idea of the interior
+of Noah's ark, we entered the long street of a village of white
+cottages, arranged on either side of it with great regularity. They were
+all exactly alike, and separated by equal spaces; and to every one was
+attached an enclosed piece of ground, apparently for a vegetable garden;
+around the doors decrepit and superannuated negroes were basking in the
+evening sun--mothers were nursing their naked babies, and one or two old
+and blind negresses were spinning in their doors. In the centre of the
+street, which was a hundred yards in width, rose to the height of fifty
+feet a framed belfry, from whose summit was suspended a bell, to
+regulate the hours of labour. At the foot of this tower, scattered over
+the grass, lay half a score of black children, _in puris naturalibus_,
+frolicking or sleeping in the warm sun, under the surveillance of an old
+African matron, who sat knitting upon a camp-stool in the midst of them.
+
+We soon arrived at the boiling-house, which was an extensive brick
+building with tower-like chimneys, numerous flues, and a high, steep
+roof, reminding me of a New England distillery. As we entered, after
+scaling a barrier of sugar-casks with which the building was surrounded,
+the slaves, who were dressed in coarse trowsers, some with and others
+without shirts, were engaged in the several departments of their sweet
+employment; whose fatigues some African Orpheus was lightening with a
+loud chorus, which was instantly hushed, or rather modified, on our
+entrance, to a half-assured whistling. A white man, with a very
+unpleasing physiognomy, carelessly leaned against one of the brick
+pillars, who raised his hat very respectfully as we passed, but did not
+change his position. This was the overseer. He held in his hand a
+short-handled whip, loaded in the butt, which had a lash four or five
+times the length of the staff. Without noticing us, except when
+addressed by his employer, he remained watching the motions of the
+toiling slaves, quickening the steps of a loiterer by a word, or
+threatening with his whip, those who, tempted by curiosity, turned to
+gaze after us, as we walked through the building.
+
+The process of sugar-making has been so often described by others, that
+I can offer nothing new or interesting upon the subject. But since my
+visit to this plantation, I have fallen in with an ultra-montane tourist
+or sketcher, a fellow-townsman and successful practitioner of medicine
+in Louisiana, who has kindly presented me with the sheet of an
+unpublished MS. which I take pleasure in transcribing, for the very
+graphic and accurate description it conveys of this interesting process.
+
+"The season of sugar-making," says Dr. P. "is termed, by the planters of
+the south, the 'rolling season;' and a merry and pleasant time it is
+too--for verily, as Paulding says, the making of sugar and the making of
+love are two of the sweetest occupations in this world. It
+commences--the making of sugar I mean--about the middle or last of
+October, and continues from three weeks to as many months, according to
+the season and other circumstances; but more especially the force upon
+the plantation, and the amount of sugar to be made. As the season
+approaches, every thing assumes a new and more cheerful aspect. The
+negroes are more animated, as their winter clothing is distributed,
+their little crops are harvested, and their wood and other comforts
+secured for that season; which, to them, if not the freest, is certainly
+the gayest and happiest portion of the year. As soon as the corn crop
+and fodder are harvested, every thing is put in motion for the grinding.
+The horses and oxen are increased in number and better groomed; the
+carts and other necessary utensils are overhauled and repaired, and some
+hundred or thousand cords of wood are cut and ready piled for the
+manufacture of the sugar. The _sucrerie_, or boiling house, is swept and
+garnished--the mill and engine are polished--the kettles scoured--the
+coolers caulked, and the _purgerie_, or draining-house, cleaned and put
+in order, where the casks are arranged to receive the sugar.
+
+The first labour in anticipation of grinding, is that of providing
+plants for the coming year; and this is done by cutting the cane, and
+putting it in _matelas_, or mattressing it, as it is commonly called.
+The cane is cut and thrown into parcels in different parts of the field,
+in quantities sufficient to plant several acres, and so arranged that
+the tops of one layer may completely cover and protect the stalks of
+another. After the quantity required is thus secured, the whole
+plantation force, nearly, is employed in cutting cane, and conveying it
+to the mill. The cane is divested of its tops, which are thrown aside,
+unless they are needed for plants, which is often the case, when they
+are thrown together in rows, and carefully protected from the
+inclemencies of the weather. The stalks are then cut as near as may be
+to the ground, and thrown into separate parcels or rows, to be taken to
+the mill in carts, and expressed as soon as possible. The cane is
+sometimes bound together in bundles, in the field, which facilitates its
+transportation, and saves both time and trouble. As soon as it is
+harvested, it is placed upon a cane-carrier, so called, which conveys it
+to the mill, where it is twice expressed between iron rollers, and made
+perfectly dry. The juice passes into vats, or receivers, and the
+_baggasse_ or cane-trash, (called in the West Indies _migass_,) is
+received into carts and conveyed to a distance from the sugar-house to
+be burnt as soon as may be. Immediately after the juice is expressed, it
+is distributed to the boilers, generally four in succession, ranged in
+solid masonry along the sides of the boiling-room, where it is properly
+tempered, and its purification and evaporation are progressively
+advanced. The French have commonly five boilers, distinguished by the
+fanciful names of _grande_--_propre_--_flambeau_--_sirop_, and
+_batterie_.
+
+In the first an alkali is generally put to temper the juice; lime is
+commonly used, and the quantity is determined by the good judgment and
+experience of the sugar-maker. In the last kettle--the _teach_ as it is
+termed--the sugar is concentrated to the granulating point, and then
+conveyed into coolers, which hold from two to three hogsheads. After
+remaining here for twenty-four hours or more, it is removed to the
+_purgerie_, or draining-house, and placed in hogsheads, which is
+technically called _potting_. Here it undergoes the process of draining
+for a few days or weeks, and is then ready for the market. The molasses
+is received beneath in cisterns, and when they become filled, it is
+taken out and conveyed into barrels or hogsheads and shipped. When all
+the molasses is removed from the cistern, an inferior kind of sugar is
+re-manufactured, which is called _cistern-sugar_, and sold at a lower
+price. When the grinding has once commenced, there is no cessation of
+labour till it is completed. From beginning to end, a busy and cheerful
+scene continues. The negroes
+
+    "---- Whose sore task
+    Does not divide the Sunday from the week,"
+
+work from eighteen to twenty hours,
+
+  "And make the night joint-labourer with the day."
+
+Though to lighten the burden as much as possible, the gang is divided
+into two watches, one taking the first, and the other the last part of
+the night; and notwithstanding this continued labour, the negroes
+improve in condition, and appear fat and flourishing. "They drink freely
+of cane-juice, and the sickly among them revive and become robust and
+healthy." After the grinding is finished, the negroes have several
+holidays, when they are quite at liberty to dance and frolic as much as
+they please; and the cane-song--which is improvised by one of the gang,
+the rest all joining in a prolonged and unintelligible chorus--now
+breaks night and day upon the ear, in notes "most musical, most
+melancholy." This over, planting recommences, and the same routine of
+labour is continued, with an intermission--except during the boiling
+season, as above stated--upon most, if not all plantations, of twelve
+hours in twenty-four, and of one day in seven throughout the year.
+
+Leaving the sugar-house, after having examined some of the most
+interesting parts of the process so well described by Dr. P., I returned
+with my polite entertainer to the house. Lingering for a moment on the
+gallery in the rear of the dwelling-house, I dwelt with pleasure upon
+the scene which the domain presented.
+
+The lawn, terminated by a snow-white paling, and ornamented here and
+there by a venerable survivor of the aboriginal forest, was rolled out
+before me like a carpet, and dotted with sleek cows, and fine horses,
+peacefully grazing, or indolently reclining upon the thick grass,
+chewing the cud of contentment. Beyond the lawn, and extending farther
+into the plantation, lay a pasture containing a great number of horses
+and cattle, playing together, reposing, feeding, or standing in social
+clusters around a shaded pool. Beyond, the interminable cane-field, or
+plantation proper, spread away without fence or swell, till lost in the
+distant forests which bounded the horizon. On my left, a few hundred
+yards from the house, and adjoining the pasture, stood the stables and
+other plantation appurtenances, constituting a village in
+themselves--for planters always have a separate building for everything.
+To the right stood the humble yet picturesque village or "quarter" of
+the slaves, embowered in trees, beyond which, farther toward the
+interior of the plantation, arose the lofty walls and turreted chimneys
+of the sugar-house, which, combined with the bell-tower, presented the
+appearance of a country village with its church-tower and the walls of
+some public edifice, lifting themselves above the trees. Some of the
+sugar-houses are very lofty and extensive, with noble wings and handsome
+fronts, resembling--aside from their lack of windows--college edifices.
+I have seen two which bore a striking resemblance, as seen from the
+river, to the Insane Hospital near Boston. It requires almost a fortune
+to construct one. The whole scene before me was extremely animated.
+Human figures were moving in all directions over the place. Some
+labouring in the distant field, others driving the slow-moving oxen,
+with a long, drawling cry--half naked negro boys shouting and yelling,
+were galloping horses as wild as themselves--negresses of all sizes,
+from one able to carry a tub to the minikin who could "tote" but a
+pint-dipper, laughing and chattering as they went, were conveying water
+from a spring to the wash-house, in vessels adroitly balanced upon their
+heads. Slaves sinking under pieces of machinery, and other burdens,
+were passing and repassing from the boiling-house and negro quarter.
+Some were calling to others afar off, and the merry shouts of the black
+children at their sports in their village, reminding me of a school just
+let out, mingled with the lowing of cows, the cackling of geese, the
+bleating of lambs, the loud and unmusical clamour of the guinea-hen,
+agreeably varied by the barking of dogs, and the roaring of some young
+African rebel under maternal castigation.
+
+Passing from this plantation scene through the airy hall of the
+dwelling, which opened from piazza to piazza through the house, to the
+front gallery, whose light columns were wreathed with the delicately
+leaved Cape-jasmine, rambling woodbine and honeysuckle, a lovelier and
+more agreeable scene met my eye. I stood almost embowered in the foliage
+of exotics and native plants, which stood upon the gallery in handsome
+vases of marble and China-ware. The main avenue opened a vista to the
+river through a paradise of althea, orange, lemon, and olive trees, and
+groves and lawns extended on both sides of this lovely spot,
+
+  "Where Flora's brightest broidery shone,"
+
+terminating at the villas of adjoining plantations. The
+Mississippi--always majestic and lake-like in its breadth--rolled past
+her turbid flood, dotted here and there by a market-lugger, with its
+black crew and clumsy sails. By the Levee, on the opposite shore, lay a
+brig, taking in a cargo of sugar from the plantation, whose noble
+colonnaded mansion rose like a palace above its low, grove-lined
+margin, and an English argosy of great size, with black spars and hull,
+was moving under full sail down the middle of the river. As I was under
+the necessity of returning to the city the same evening, I took leave of
+the youthful family of my polite host, who clustered around us as we
+walked along the avenue to the gateway, endeavouring to detain us till
+the next morning. The young rogue of a dragoon, who was now
+metamorphosed into a trumpeter--what a singular propensity little chubby
+boys have for the weapons and apparel of war!--a most mischievous little
+cupidon of but two or three summers' growth, was very desirous of
+accompanying us to town, on seeing us seated in the carriage; but
+finding that his eloquent appeals were unheeded, he took a fancy to a
+noble pointer, spotted like a leopard, which accompanied me, and
+clinging around the neck of the majestic and docile creature, as we
+drove from the gate, said in a half playful, half pettish tone, "Me ride
+dis pretty dog-horse, den." The sensible animal stood like a statue till
+the little fellow relaxed his embrace, when he darted after the
+carriage, then a quarter of a mile from the gate, bounding like a stag.
+The cries of "Pa, bring me this," and "Pa, bring me that," were soon
+lost in the distance, and rolling like the wind over the level road
+along the banks of the river, we arrived in the city and alighted at
+Bishop's a few minutes after seven.
+
+
+
+
+XXIII.
+
+      Leave New-Orleans--The Mississippi--Scenery--Evening on
+      the water--Scenes on the deck of a steamer--Passengers--
+      Plantations--Farm-houses--Catholic college--Convent of
+      the Sacred Heart--Caged birds--Donaldsonville--The first
+      highland--Baton Rouge--Its appearance--Barracks--Scenery
+      --Squatters--Fort Adams--Way passengers--Steamer.
+
+
+Once more I am floating upon the "Father of rivers." New-Orleans, with
+its crowd of "mingled nations", is seen indistinctly in the distance. We
+are now doubling a noble bend in the river, which will soon hide the
+city from our sight; but scenes of rural enchantment are opening before
+us as we advance, which will amply and delightfully repay us for its
+absence.
+
+What a splendid panorama of opulence and beauty is now spread out around
+us! Sublimity is wanting to make the painting perfect--but its
+picturesque effect is unrivalled.
+
+Below us a few miles, indistinctly seen through the haze, a dense forest
+of masts, and here and there a tower, designate the emporium of
+commerce--the key of the mighty west. The banks are lined and ornamented
+with elegant mansions, displaying, in their richly adorned grounds, the
+wealth and taste of their possessors; while the river, now moving
+onward like a golden flood, reflecting the mellow rays of the setting
+sun, is full of life. Vessels of every size are gliding in all
+directions over its waveless bosom, while graceful skiffs dart merrily
+about like white-winged birds. Huge steamers are dashing and thundering
+by, leaving long trains of wreathing smoke in their rear. Carriages
+filled with ladies and attended by gallant horsemen, enliven the smooth
+road along the Levee; while the green banks of the Levee itself are
+covered with gay promenaders. A glimpse through the trees now and then,
+as we move rapidly past the numerous villas, detects the piazzas, filled
+with the young, beautiful, and aged of the family, enjoying the rich
+beauty of the evening, and of the objects upon which my own eyes rest
+with admiration.
+
+The scene has changed. The moon rides high in the east, while the
+western star hangs trembling in the path of the sun. Innumerable lights
+twinkle along the shores, or flash out from some vessel as we glide
+rapidly past. How exhilarating to be upon the water by moonlight! But a
+snow-white sail, a graceful barque, and a woodland lake--with a calm,
+clear, moonlight, sleeping upon it like a blessing--must be marshalled
+for poetical effect. There is nothing of that here. Quiet and romance
+are lost in sublimity, if not in grandeur. The great noise of rushing
+waters--the deep-toned booming of the steamer--the fearful rapidity with
+which we are borne past the half-obscured objects on shore and in the
+stream--the huge columns of black smoke rolling from the mouths of the
+gigantic chimneys, and spangled with showers of sparks, flying like
+trains of meteors shooting through the air; while a proud consciousness
+of the power of the dark hull beneath your feet, which plunges,
+thundering onward--a thing of majesty and life--adds to the majesty and
+wonder of the time.
+
+The passengers have descended to the cabin; some to turn in, a few to
+read, but more to play at the ever-ready card-table. The pilot (as the
+helmsman is here termed) stands in his lonely wheel-house, comfortably
+enveloped in his blanket-coat--the hurricane deck is deserted, and the
+hands are gathered in the bows, listening to the narration of some
+ludicrous adventure of recent transaction in the city of hair-breadth
+escapes. Now and then a laugh from the merry auditors, or a loud roar
+from some ebony-cheeked fireman, as he pitches his wood into the gaping
+furnace, breaks upon the stillness of night, startling the echoes along
+the shores. What beings of habit we are! How readily do we accustom
+ourselves to circumstances! The deep trombone of the steam-pipe--the
+regular splash of the paddles--and the incessant rippling of the water
+eddying away astern, as our noble vessel flings it from her sides, no
+longer affect the senses, unless it may be to lull them into a repose
+well meant for contemplation. They are now no longer auxiliaries to the
+scene--habit has made them a part of it: and I can pace the deck with my
+mind as free and undisturbed as though I were in a lonely boat, upon
+"the dark blue sea", with no sound but the beating of my own heart, to
+break the silence. A few short hours have passed, and the grander
+characters of the scene are mellowed down, by their familiarity with my
+senses, into calm and quiet loneliness.
+
+Having secured a berth in one corner of the spacious cabin, where I
+could draw the rich crimsoned curtains around me, and with book or pen
+pass my time somewhat removed from the bustle, and undisturbed by the
+constant passing of the restless passengers, I began this morning to
+look about me upon my fellow-travellers, seeking familiar faces, or
+scanning strange ones, by Lavater's doubtful rules.
+
+Our passengers are a strange medley, not only representing every state
+and territory washed by this great river, but nearly every Atlantic and
+trans-Atlantic state and nation. In the cabin are the merchants and
+planters of the "up country;" and on deck, emigrants, return-boatmen,
+&c. &c. I may say something more of them hereafter, but not at present,
+as the scenery through which we are passing is too attractive to keep me
+longer below. So, to the deck. We are now about sixty miles above
+New-Orleans, and the shores have presented, the whole distance, one
+continued line of noble mansions, some of them princely and magnificent,
+intermingled, at intervals, with humbler farm-houses.
+
+I think I have remarked, in a former letter, that the plantations along
+the river extend from the Levee to the swamps in the rear; the distance
+across the belt of land being, from the irregular encroachment of the
+marshes, from one to two or three miles. These plantations have been,
+for a very long period, under cultivation for the production of sugar
+crops. As the early possessor of large tracts of land had sons to
+settle, they portioned off parallelograms to each; which, to combine the
+advantages of exportation and wood, extended from the river to the
+flooded forest in the rear. These, in time, portioned off to their
+children, while every occupant of a tract erected his dwelling at the
+head of his domain, one or two hundred yards from the river. Other
+plantations retain their original dimensions, crowned, on the borders of
+the river, with noble mansions, embowered in the evergreen foliage of
+the dark-leaved orange and lemon trees. The shores, consequently,
+present, from the lofty deck of a steamer,--from which can be had an
+extensive prospect of the level country--a very singular appearance.
+
+Farm-houses thickly set, or now and then separated by a prouder
+structure, line the shores with tasteful parterres and shady trees
+around them; while parallel lines of fence, commencing at these
+cottages, frequently but a few rods apart, extend away into the
+distance, till the numerous lines dwindle apparently to a point, and
+present the appearance of radii diverging from one common centre. A
+planter thus may have a plantation a league in length, though not a
+furlong in breadth. The regularity of these lines, the flatness of the
+country, and the _fac simile_ farm-houses, render the scenery in general
+rather monotonous; though some charming spots, that might have been
+stolen from Paradise, fully atone for the wearisome character of the
+rest. We have passed several Catholic churches, prettily situated,
+surrounded by the white monuments of the dead. On our right, the lofty
+walls of a huge edifice, just completed, and intended for a university,
+rear themselves in the midst of a vast plain, once an extensive sugar
+plantation. This embryo institution is under state patronage. It is a
+noble brick building, advantageously situated for health, beauty, and
+convenience; and calculated, from its vast size, to accommodate a large
+number of students. It is to be of a sectarian character, devoted, I
+understand, to the interest of the Roman church.
+
+A mile above, the towers and crosses of a pile of buildings, half hidden
+by a majestic grove of noble forest trees, attract the attention of the
+traveller. They are the convent du Sacre Coeur,--the nursery of the
+fair daughters of Louisiana. There are two large buildings, exclusive of
+the chapel and the residence of the officiating priest. The site is
+eminently beautiful, and, compared with the general tameness of the
+scenery in this region, romantic. A padre, in his long black gown, is
+promenading the Levee, and the windows of the convent are relieved by
+the presence of figures, which, the spy-glass informs us, are those of
+the fair prisoners; who, perhaps with many a sigh, are watching the
+rapid motion of our boat, with its busy, bustling scene on board,
+contrasting it with their incarcerated state, probably inducing
+reflections of a melancholy cast, with ardent aspirations for the "wings
+of a dove."
+
+The education of females is well attended to in this state; though the
+peculiar doctrines of the Roman Catholic church are inculcated with
+their tasks.
+
+The villages of Plaquemine and Donaldsonville, the latter formerly the
+seat of government, are pleasant, quiet, and rural. The latter is
+distinguished by a dilapidated state-house, which lifts itself above the
+humbler dwellings around it, and adds much to the importance and beauty
+of the town in the eye of the traveller as he sails past. But the
+streets of the village are solitary; and closed stores and deserted
+taverns add to their loneliness. Between New-Orleans and Baton Rouge, a
+distance of one hundred and seventeen miles, the few villages upon the
+river all partake, more or less, of this humble and dilapidated
+character. Baton Rouge is now in sight, a few miles above. As we
+approach it the character of the scene changes. Hills once more relieve
+the eye, so long wearied with gazing upon a flat yet beautiful country.
+These are the first hills that gladden the sight of the traveller as he
+ascends the river. They are to the northerner like oases in a desert.
+How vividly and how agreeably does the sight of their green slopes, and
+graceful undulations, conjure up the loved and heart-cherished scenes of
+home!
+
+We are now nearly opposite the town, which is pleasantly situated upon
+the declivity of the hill, retreating over its brow and spreading out on
+a plain in the rear, where the private dwellings are placed, shaded and
+half embowered in the rich foliage of that loveliest of all shade-trees,
+"the pride of China." The stores and other places of business are upon
+the front street, which runs parallel with the river. The site of the
+town is about forty feet above the highest flood, and rises by an easy
+and gentle swell from the water. The barracks, a short distance from the
+village, are handsome and commodious, constructed around a pentagonal
+area--four noble buildings forming four sides, while the fifth is open,
+fronting upon the river. The buildings are brick, with lofty colonnades
+and double galleries running along the whole front. The columns are
+yellow-stuccoed, striking the eye with a more pleasing effect, than the
+red glare of brick. The view of these noble structures from the river,
+as we passed, was very fine. From the esplanade there is an extensive
+and commanding prospect of the inland country--the extended shores,
+stretching out north and south, dotted with elegant villas, and richly
+enamelled by their high state of cultivation. The officers are
+gentlemanly men, and form a valuable acquisition to the society of the
+neighbourhood. This station must be to them an agreeable sinecure. The
+town, from the hasty survey which I was enabled to make of it, must be a
+delightful residence. It is neat and well built; the French and Spanish
+style of architecture prevails. The view of the town from the deck of
+the steamer is highly beautiful. The rich, green swells rising gradually
+from the water--its pleasant streets, bordered with the umbrageous
+China tree--its colonnaded dwellings--its mingled town and rural
+scenery, and its pleasant suburbs, give it an air of quiet and novel
+beauty, such as one loves to gaze upon in old landscapes which the
+imagination fills with ideal images of its own.
+
+The scenery now partakes of another character. The rich plantations,
+waving with green and golden crops of cane, are succeeded here and there
+by a cotton plantation, but more generally by untrodden forests, hanging
+over the banks, which are now for a hundred miles of one uniform
+character and height--being about twenty feet above the highest floods.
+Now and then a "squatter's" hut, instead of relieving, adds to the wild
+and dreary character of the scene. This class of men with their
+families, are usually in a most wretched and squalid condition. As they
+live exposed to the fatal, poisonous miasma of the swamp, their
+complexions are cadaverous, and their persons wasted by disease. They
+sell wood to the steamboats for a means of subsistence--seldom
+cultivating what little cleared land there may be around them. There are
+exceptions to this, however. Many become eventually purchasers of the
+tracts on which they are settled, and lay foundations for fine estates
+and future independence.
+
+Loftus's height, a striking eminence crowned by Fort Adams, appears in
+the distance. It is a cluster of cliffs and hills nearly two hundred
+feet in height. The old fort can just be discerned with a glass,
+surmounting a natural platform, half way up the side of the most
+prominent hill. The works present the appearance of a few green mounds,
+and though defaced by time, still bear evidence of having been a
+military post. The position is highly commanding and romantic. The
+scenery around would be termed striking, even in Maine, that romantic
+land of rocks, and cliffs, and mountains. A small village is at the base
+of the hills, containing a few stores. Cotton is exported hence, and
+steamers are now at the landing taking it in.
+
+As we were passing the place on our way up the river, a white signal was
+displayed from a pole held by some one standing on the shore. In a few
+moments we came abreast of the fort, and in obedience to the fluttering
+signal, our steamer rounded gracefully to, and put her jolly boat off
+for the expected passengers. The boat had scarcely touched the bank,
+before the boatmen at one leap gained the baggage which lay piled upon
+the Levee, and tumbling it helter-skelter into the bottom of the boat,
+as though for life and death, called out, so as to be heard far above
+the deafening noise of the rushing steam as it hissed from the pipe,
+"Come gentlemen, come, the boat's a-waiting." The new passengers had
+barely time to pass into the boat and balance themselves erect upon the
+thwarts, before, impelled by the nervous arms of the boatmen, she was
+cutting her way through the turbid waves to the steamer, which had been
+kept in her position against the strong current of the river, by an
+occasional revolution of her wheels. The instant she struck her side the
+boat was cleared immediately of "bag and baggage," at the "risk of the
+owners" truly--and the hurrying passengers had hardly gained a footing
+upon the guard, before the loud, brief command, "go ahead," was heard,
+followed by the tinkling of the engineer's bell, the dull groaning of
+the ponderous, labouring engine, and the heavy dash of the water, as
+strongly beaten by the vast fins of this huge "river monster."
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX
+
+
+NOTE A--_Page 73._
+
+The following STATISTICAL TABLES, exhibiting Louisiana in a
+variety of comparative views, have been compiled principally from the
+elaborate tables of that valuable periodical--the American Almanac and
+Repository of Useful Knowledge--for the year 1835.
+
+
+LOUISIANA.
+
+  -----------------------------------------------------------------------
+   Latitude of New-Orleans,                     29 deg. 57' 45" North.
+   Longitude in degrees,                        90  60  49  West.
+                                                _h.  m.  s._
+      "      in time,                            6   0  27.3
+   Distance from Washington, 1203 miles.
+  -----------------------------------+----------------------------------
+   Relative size of Louisiana, 5.    | Extent in square miles, 45,220.
+  -----------------------------------+----------------------------------
+
+  NUMBER OF INHABITANTS TO A SQUARE MILE.
+  -----------------------+-----------------------+----------------------
+          In 1810.       |       In 1820.        |       In 1830.
+  -----------------------+-----------------------+----------------------
+             1.6         |          3.2          |          4.4
+  -----------------------+-----------------------+----------------------
+
+  RELATIVE POPULATION.
+  -----------------------+-----------------------+----------------------
+          In 1810.       |        In 1820.       |       In 1830.
+  -------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+------+-------+-------
+   Free  | Slave | Total | Free  | Slave | Total | Free | Slave | Total
+  -------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+------+-------+-------
+    18   |    8  |   17  |  19   |    8  |   17  |  21  |    8  |   19
+  -------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+------+-------+-------
+
+  RATE OF INCREASE OF FREE AND SLAVE POPULATION.
+
+  -----------------------+-----------------------+----------------------
+     From 1800 to 1810.  |   From 1810 to 1820.  |  From 1820 to 1830.
+  -------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+------+-------+-------
+   Free  | Slave | Total | Free  | Slave | Total | Free | Slave | Total
+  -------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+------+-------+-------
+         |       |       |       |       |_p.ct._|      |       |
+         |       |       |   373 | 2193.7|   636 |  25.8|  58.7 |  40.6
+  -------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+------+-------+-------
+
+
+  POPULATION OF LOUISIANA IN 1810.
+
+  -------------+--------------+---------------------------+-------------
+      Free     |    Slaves    |   No. of free to 1 slave  |   Total
+  -------------+--------------+---------------------------+-------------
+     41,896    |    34,660    |            1.20           |   76,556
+  -------------+--------------+---------------------------+-------------
+
+
+  In 1820.
+
+  -------------+--------------+---------------------------+-------------
+     84,343    |    69,064    |            1.22           |  153,407
+  -------------+--------------+---------------------------+-------------
+
+
+  In 1830.
+
+  -------------+--------------+---------------------------+-------------
+    106,151    |   109,588    |             .96           |  215,739
+  -------------+--------------+---------------------------+-------------
+
+
+  VALUE OF IMPORTS IN THE YEAR ENDING SEPTEMBER 30, 1833.
+
+  -----------------------+-----------------------+----------------------
+    In American vessels  |  In foreign vessels   |         Total
+  -----------------------+-----------------------+----------------------
+        $ 6,658,916      |      $ 2,931,589      |     $ 9,590,505
+  -----------------------+-----------------------+----------------------
+
+
+  VALUE OF EXPORTS IN THE SAME YEAR.
+
+  -----------------------+-----------------------+----------------------
+                         |                       |   Total of Domestic
+     Domestic Produce    |   Foreign Produce     |  and Foreign Produce
+  -----------------------+-----------------------+----------------------
+        $16,133,457      |      $2,807,916       |      $18,941,373
+  -----------------------+-----------------------+----------------------
+               Tonnage, 1st January, 1834--61,171 Tons.
+  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
+
+
+GOVERNMENT.
+
+                                                          _Salary._
+  EDWARD D. WHITE, Governor (elect); Jan. 1835
+    to Jan. 1839                                          $ 7,500
+  GEORGE EUSTIS, Secretary of State                         2,500
+  F. GARDERE, Treasurer; 4 per cent. on all
+    moneys received.
+  LOUIS BRINGIER, Surveyor General                            800
+  CLAUDIUS CROZET, Civil Engineer                           5,000
+  F. GAIENNIE, Adjutant and Inspector General               2,000
+  E. MAZUREAU, Attorney General                             2,000
+
+Senate, 17 members, elected for two years. C. DERBIGNY, President.
+
+House of Representatives, 50 members, elected for two years. A.
+Labranche, Speaker.
+
+
+JUDICIARY.
+
+Judges of the Supreme Court.--GEORGE MATTHEWS, FRANCIS X.
+MARTIN, and HENRY A. BULLARD. Salary of each, $5,000.
+
+Judge of the Criminal Court of the City of New-Orleans.--JOHN F.
+CANONGE.
+
+Judges of the District Courts.--Salary of each $2,000.
+
+  CHARLES WATTS,          1st district.
+  BENJAMIN WINCHESTER,    2d     do.
+  CHARLES BUSHNELL,       3d     do.
+  R. N. OGDEN,            4th    do.
+  SETH LEWIS,             5th    do.
+  J. H. JOHNSON,          6th    do.
+  J. H. OVERTON,          7th    do.
+  CLARK WOODRUFF,         8th    do.
+
+The Supreme Court sits in the city of New-Orleans, for the Eastern
+district of the state during the months of November, December, January,
+February, March, April, May, June, and July; and for the Northern
+district, at Opelousas and Attakapas, during the months of August,
+September, and October; and at Baton Rouge, commencing the 1st Monday in
+August. The district courts, with the exception of the courts in the
+first district, hold, in each parish, two sessions during the year, to
+try causes originally instituted before them, and appeals from the
+parish courts. The parish courts hold their regular sessions in each
+parish on the first Monday in each month. The courts in the first
+district, composed of the district, parish, and criminal courts, and
+courts of probate, are in session during the whole year, excepting the
+months of July, August, September, and October, in which they hold
+special courts when necessary.
+
+
+BANKS.
+
+State of the banks, January 7, 1834, as given in a document laid before
+Congress, June 21, 1834.
+
+  -----------------------------+---------------+------------+-------------
+               NAME.           |    Capital    |  Bills in  |    Specie
+                               |  stock paid   |circulation.|  and specie
+                               |      in.      |            |    funds.
+  -----------------------------+---------------+------------+-------------
+  Canal and Banking Company    |   3,998,200   |   951,780  |  297,451 21
+  City Bank                    |   2,000,000   |   380,670  |  335,288 88
+  Commercial Bank              |     817,835   |   145,000  |  135,903 73
+  Union bank of Louisiana      |   5,500,000   | 1,281,000  |  291,587 87
+  Louisiana State Bank         |   1,248,720   |   428,470  |  546,125 34
+  Consolidated Association Bank|   2,500,000   |    84,300  |   61,936 43
+                               | -----------   | ---------  |------------
+                               | $16,064,755   | 3,271,230  |1,568,293 46
+  Estimated situation of the   |               |            |
+  following banks.--no returns.|               |            |
+  Bank of Louisiana            |   4,000,000 } |            |
+  Bank of Orleans              |     600,000 } |            |
+  Citizens' Bank of Louisiana  |   1,000,000 } | 1,522,500  |  650,000 00
+  Mechanics' and Traders' Bank |   2,000,000 } |            |
+                               |  ----------   | ---------- |------------
+                         Total | $23,664,755   | 4,793,730  |2,218,293 46
+  -----------------------------+---------------+------------+-------------
+
+The Union Bank of Louisiana has branches at the following places, viz.
+Thiboudeauville, Covington, Marshville, Vermillionville, St.
+Martinsville, Plaquemine, Natchitoches, and Clinton.
+
+Interest. "Legal interest is 5 per cent. Conventional interest, as high
+as 10 per cent., is legal. Of our banks, none can charge higher than 9
+per cent., and some of them not higher than 8. But if I lend $100, and
+the borrower gives me his note for $110, $120, $130, $140, or even $150,
+or more, with 10 per cent. interest from date, the law legalizes the
+transaction, and will not set aside any part of the claim on the plea of
+usury. In fact, money is considered here like any other article in the
+market, and the holder may ask what price he pleases for it."
+
+
+INSURANCE COMPANIES.
+
+  Merchants' Insurance Company of New-Orleans                 $1,000,000
+  Phoenix Fire Insurance Co. of London--agent at New Orleans   1,000,000
+  Louisiana Slate Marine and File Insurance Co.                  400,000
+  Western Marine and Fire Insurance Company                      300,000
+  Louisiana Insurance Company                                    300,000
+  Mississippi Marine and Fire Insurance Company                  300,000
+  New-Orleans Insurance Company                                  200,000
+  Pontchartrain Rail-road Company                                250,000
+  Orleans Navigation Company                                     200,000
+  Barataria and Lafourche Canal Company                          150,000
+
+
+NEWSPAPERS.
+
+Louisiana was originally settled by the French; in 1762, it was ceded by
+France to Spain; near the end of the 18th century it was restored to
+France; in 1803, it was purchased by the United States; in 1804, the
+country now forming the state of Louisiana was formed into a territorial
+government under the name of the Territory of Orleans; and in 1812, it
+was admitted into the Union as a state.
+
+Mr. Thomas, in his "History of Printing," remarks "that several
+printing-houses were opened at New-Orleans, and several newspapers were
+immediately published there, after the country came under the government
+of the United States."
+
+The first paper published in New-Orleans was the "Moniteur de la
+Louisiana," a French paper, and edited by M. Fontaine. This was a
+government paper, issued at irregular intervals and at the discretion of
+the Spanish government. It was rather a vehicle of ordinances and public
+documents than a newspaper.
+
+In the year 1803 an enterprising New-Englander named Lyons--a son of the
+celebrated Mathew Lyons--who had been sent to New-Orleans with
+despatches from government, on arriving there, and ascertaining that
+there was no regular press in the city, applied to General Wilkinson for
+patronage to establish a weekly paper. Herein he was successful; but,
+except himself, there was not another printer in New-Orleans, journeyman
+or "devil."
+
+By some means, however, he learned that there were three young men[11]
+from the only printing office in Natchez, then belonging to the army,
+quartered in the city. He obtained their furlough from General
+Wilkinson--and obtaining the office of the "Moniteur," in a few weeks
+issued the first number of a paper entitled the "Union." To this in a
+few weeks succeeded the "Louisiana Courier," which, established in
+1806, now holds a high rank in the army of periodicals, and is the
+oldest paper in the state.
+
+The number of newspapers in the Territory of Orleans in 1810, was 10,
+(two of them daily;) all in the city of New-Orleans.
+
+The number in Louisiana in 1828, was only nine. New-Orleans is the great
+centre of business and of publishing in this state. There are now
+published in New-Orleans seven daily papers, and 31 altogether in
+Louisiana.
+
+
+SUMMARY.
+
+The Governor of Louisiana is elected by the people. Term begins January,
+1835, and expires January 1839. Duration of the term, four years. Salary
+$7,500.
+
+Senators, 17. Term of years, four. Representatives, 50. Term of years,
+two. Total--Senators and Representatives, 67. Pay per day, $4. Electors
+of president and vice president are chosen by general ticket.
+
+Seat of government--New-Orleans. Time of holding elections--first Monday
+in July. Time of meeting of the legislature--first Monday in January.
+
+Louisiana admitted into the Union in 1812.
+
+
+NOTE B--_Page 178._
+
+"The State senators of Louisiana are elected for four years, one fourth
+vacating their seats annually. They must possess an estate of a thousand
+dollars in the parish, for which they are chosen. The representatives
+have a biennial term, and must possess 500 dollars' worth of property in
+the parish to be eligible. The governor is chosen for four years; and is
+ineligible for the succeeding term. His duties are the same, as in the
+other states, and his salary is 7,000 dollars a year. The judiciary
+powers are vested in a supreme and circuit court, together with a
+municipal court called the parish court.--The salaries are ample. The
+elective franchise belongs to every free white man of twenty-one years,
+and upward, who has had a residence of six months in the parish, and who
+has paid taxes.
+
+The code of laws, adopted by this state, is not what is called the
+"common law," which is the rule of judicial proceedings in all the other
+states, but the _civil law_, adopted, with some modifications, from the
+judicial canons of France and Spain. So much of the common law is
+interwoven with it, as has been adopted by express deep stain upon the
+moral character to be generally reputed a cruel master. In many
+plantations no punishment is inflicted except after a trial by a jury,
+composed of the fellow-servants of the party accused. Festivals, prizes,
+and rewards are instituted, as stimulants to exertion, and compensations
+for superior accomplishment of labour. They are generally well fed and
+clothed, and that not by an arbitrary award, which might vary with the
+feelings of the master; but by periodical apportionment, like the
+distributed rations of soldiers, of what has been ascertained to be
+amply sufficient to render them comfortable.
+
+Nor are they destitute, as has been supposed, of any legal protection,
+coming between them and the possible cupidity and cruelty of the
+masters. The '_code noir_' of Louisiana is a curious collection of
+statutes, drawn partly from French and Spanish law and usage, and partly
+from the customs of the islands, and usages, which have grown out of the
+peculiar circumstances of Louisiana while a colony. It has the aspect,
+it must be admitted, of being formed rather for the advantage of the
+master, than for the servant, for it prescribes an unlimited homage and
+obedience to the latter. But at the same time, it defines crimes, which
+the master can commit in relation to the slave, and prescribes the mode
+of trial, and the kind and degree of punishment. It constitutes
+unnecessary correction, maiming, and murder, punishable offences in a
+master. It is very minute in prescribing the number of hours, which the
+master may lawfully exact to be employed in labour, and the number of
+hours, which he must allow his slave for meal-time and for rest. It
+prescribes the time and extent of his holidays. In short, it settles
+with minuteness and detail the whole circle of relations between master
+and slave, defining, and prescribing what the former may, and may not
+exact from the latter.
+
+That the slave is, also, in the general circumstances of his condition,
+as happy as this relation will admit of his being, is an unquestionable
+fact. That he seldom performs as much labour, or performs it as well as
+a free man, says all upon the subject of the motives which freedom only
+can supply, that can be alleged. In all the better managed plantations,
+the mode of building the quarters is fixed. The arrangement of the
+little village has a fashion by which it is settled. Interest, if not
+humanity, has defined the amount of food and rest, necessary for their
+health; and there is, in a large and respectable plantation, as much
+precision in the rules, as much exactness in the times of going to
+sleep, awaking, going to labour, and resting before and after meals, as
+in a garrison under military discipline, or in a ship of war. A bell
+gives all the signals; every slave, at the assigned hour in the morning,
+is forthcoming to his labour, or his case is reported, either as one of
+idleness, obstinacy, or sickness, in which case he is sent to the
+hospital, and there is attended by a physician, who, for the most part,
+has a yearly salary for attending to all the sick of the plantation. The
+union of physical force, directed by one will, is now well understood to
+have a much greater effect upon the amount of labour, which a number of
+hands, so managed, can bring about, than the same force directed by as
+many wills as there are hands. Hence it happens that while one free man,
+circumstances being the same, will perform more labour than one slave, a
+hundred slaves will accomplish more on one plantation, than so many
+hired free men, acting at their own discretion. Hence, too, it is, that
+such a prodigious quantity of cotton and sugar is made here, in
+proportion to the number of labouring hands. All the processes of
+agriculture are managed by system. Everything goes straight forward.
+There is no pulling down to-day the scheme of yesterday, and the whole
+amount of force is directed by the teaching of experience to the best
+result. _Flint's Miss. Val. Art. Louisiana_, vol. i. p. 527.
+
+
+NOTE D.--_Page 196._
+
+"The borderers universally took an active part in the war, and were
+eminently useful in repelling the incursions of the Indians. Not even
+the most lawless but was found ready to pour out his life-blood for the
+republic.
+
+A curious instance of the strange mixture of magnanimity and ferocity
+often found among the demi-savages of the borders was afforded by the
+Louisianian Lafitte. This desperado had placed himself at the head of a
+band of outlaws from all nations under heaven, and fixed his abode upon
+the top of an impregnable rock, to the south-west of the mouth of the
+Mississippi. Under the colours of the South American patriots, they
+pirated at pleasure every vessel that came in their way, and smuggled
+their booty up the secret creeks of the Mississippi, with a dexterity
+that baffled all the efforts of justice. The depredations of these
+outlaws, or, as they styled themselves, _Barritarians_, (from Barrita,
+their island,) becoming at length intolerable, the United States'
+government despatched an armed force against their little Tripoli. The
+establishment was broken up, and the pirates dispersed. But Lafitte
+again collected his outlaws, and took possession of his rock. The
+attention of the congress being now diverted by the war, he scoured the
+gulf at his pleasure, and so tormented the coasting traders, that
+Governor Claiborne of Louisiana set a price on his head.
+
+This daring outlaw, thus confronted with the American government,
+appeared likely to promote the designs of its enemies. He was known to
+possess the clue to all the secret windings and entrances of the
+many-mouthed Mississippi; and in the projected attack upon New-Orleans
+it was deemed expedient to secure his assistance.
+
+The British officer then heading the forces landed at Pensacola for the
+invasion of Louisiana, opened a treaty with the Barritarian, to whom he
+offered such rewards as were best calculated to tempt his cupidity and
+flatter his ambition. The outlaw affected to relish the proposal; but
+having artfully drawn from Colonel N---- the plan of his intended
+attack, he spurned his offers with the most contemptuous disdain, and
+instantly despatched one of his most trusty corsairs to the governor who
+had set a price for his life, advising him of the intentions of the
+enemy, and volunteering the aid of his little band, on the single
+condition that an amnesty should be granted for their past offences.
+Governor Claiborne, though touched by this proof of magnanimity,
+hesitated to close with the offer. The corsair kept himself in readiness
+for the expected summons, and continued to spy and report the motions of
+the enemy. As danger became more urgent, and the steady generosity of
+the outlaw more assured, Governor Claiborne granted to him and his
+followers life and pardon, and called them to the defence of the city.
+They obeyed with alacrity, and served with a valour, fidelity, and good
+conduct, not surpassed by the best volunteers of the republic."
+--_Flint's Miss. Valley._
+
+
+NOTE E.--_Page 204._
+
+The following extract from a narrative of the British attack on
+New-Orleans by Capt. Cooke, late of the British army, will, perhaps, not
+be without interest to many of my readers.
+
+
+CAMP BEFORE NEW-ORLEANS.
+
+"I do not remember ever looking for the first signs of day-break with
+more intense anxiety than on this eventful morning; every now and then I
+thought I heard the distant hum of voices, then again something like the
+doleful rustling of the wind before the coming storm, among the leaves
+of the foliage. But no; it was only the effect of the momentary buzzing
+in my ears; all was silent--the dew lay on the damp sod, and the
+soldiers were carefully putting aside their entrenching tools, and
+laying hold of their arms to be up and answer the first war-call at a
+moment's warning. How can I convey a thought of the intense anxiety of
+the mind, when a sombre silence is broken by the intonations of the
+cannon, and when the work of death begins? Now the veil of night was
+less obscured, and its murky mantle dissolved on all sides, and the mist
+sweeping off the face of the earth; yet it was not day, and no object
+was very visible beyond the extent of a few yards. The morn was
+chilly--I augured not of victory, an evil foreboding crossed my mind,
+and I meditated in solitary reflection. All was tranquil as the grave,
+and no camp-fires glimmered from either friends or foes.
+
+Soon after this, two light companies of the seventh and ninety-third
+regiments came up without knapsacks, the highlanders with their blankets
+rolled and slung around their backs, and merely wearing the shell of
+their bonnets, the sable plumes of real ostrich feathers brought by them
+from the Cape of Good Hope, having been left in England. One company of
+the forty-third light infantry also followed, marching up rapidly. These
+three companies formed a compact little column of two hundred and forty
+soldiers, near the battery on the high road to New-Orleans. They were to
+attack the crescent battery near the river, and if possible to silence
+its fire under the muzzles of twenty pieces of cannon; at a point, too,
+where the bulk of the British force had hesitated when first they
+landed, and had recoiled from its fire on the twenty-eighth of last
+December, and on the first of January. I asked Lieut. Duncan Campbell
+where they were going, when he replied, "I'll be hanged if I know:"
+"then," said I, "you have got into what I call a good thing; a far-famed
+American battery is in front of you at a short range, and on the left of
+this spot is flanked, at 800 yards, by their batteries on the opposite
+bank of the river." At this piece of information he laughed heartily,
+and I told him to take off his blue pelisse-coat to be like the rest of
+the men. "No," he said gayly, "I will never peel for an American--come,
+Jack, embrace me." He was a fine young officer of twenty years of age,
+and had fought in many bloody encounters in Spain and France, but this
+was to be his last, as well as that of many more brave men. The mist was
+slowly clearing off, but objects could only be discerned at two or three
+hundred yards distance, as the morning was rather hazy; we had only
+quitted the battery two minutes, when a Congreve rocket was thrown up,
+whether from the enemy or not we could not tell; for some seconds it
+whizzed backward and forward in such a zigzag way, that we all looked up
+to see whether it was coming down upon our heads. The troops
+simultaneously halted, but all smiled at some sailors dragging a
+two-wheeled car a hundred yards to our left, which had brought up
+ammunition to the battery, who, by common consent, as it were, let go
+the shaft, and left it the instant the rocket was let off.--(This
+rocket, although we did not know it, proved to be the signal of attack.)
+All eyes were cast upward, like those of so many astronomers, to descry,
+if possible, what could be the upshot of this noisy harbinger, breaking
+in upon the solemn silence that reigned around. During all my military
+services I do not remember seeing a small body of troops thrown into
+such a strange configuration, having formed themselves into a circle,
+and halted, both officers and men, without any previous word of command,
+each man looking earnestly, as if by instinct of his imagination, to see
+in what particular quarter the anticipated firing would begin.
+
+The Mississippi was not visible, its waters likewise being covered over
+with the fog; nor was there a single soldier, save our little phalanx,
+to be seen, or the tramp of a horse or a single footstep to be heard, by
+way of announcing that the battle-scene was about to begin, before the
+vapoury curtain was lifted or cleared away for the opposing forces to
+get a glimpse one of the other. So that we were completely lost, not
+knowing which way to bend our footsteps, and the only words which now
+escaped the officers were "steady, men," these precautionary warnings
+being quite unnecessary, as every soldier was, as it were, motionless
+like fox-hunters, waiting with breathless expectation, and casting
+significant looks one at the other before Reynard breaks cover.
+
+All eyes seemed anxious to dive through the mist; and all ears attentive
+to the coming moment, as it was impossible to tell whether the blazing
+would begin from the troops who were supposed to have already crossed
+the river, or from the great battery of the Americans on the right bank
+of the Mississippi, or from the main lines. From all these points we
+were equidistant, and within point-blank range; and were left, besides,
+totally without orders, and without knowing how to act or where to find
+our own corps, just as if we had formed no part or parcel of the army.
+
+The rocket had fallen probably in the Mississippi, all was silent, nor
+did a single officer or soldier attempt to shift his foot-hold, so
+anxiously were we all employed in listening for the first roar of the
+cannon to guide our footsteps, or as it were to pronounce with loud
+peals where was the point of our destination, well knowing that to go
+farther to the rear was not the way to find our regiment. This silence
+and suspense had not lasted more than two minutes, when the most
+vehement firing from the British artillery began opposite the left of
+the American lines, and before they could even see what objects they
+were firing at, or before the intended attacking column of the British
+were probably formed to go on to the assault. The American artillery
+soon responded, and thus it was that the gunners of the English and the
+Americans were firing through the mist at random; or in the supposed
+direction whence came their respective balls through the fog. And the
+first objects we saw, enclosed as it were in this little world of mist,
+were the cannon-balls tearing up the ground and crossing one another,
+and bounding along like so many cricket-balls through the air, coming on
+our left flank from the American batteries on the right bank of the
+river, and also from their lines in front.
+
+At this momentous crisis a droll occurrence took place; a company of
+blacks emerged out of the mist, carrying ladders, which were intended
+for the three light companies for the left attack, but these Ethiopians
+were so confounded at the multiplicity of noises, that without farther
+ado, they dropped the ladders and fell flat on their faces, and without
+doubt, had their claws been of sufficient length, they would have
+scratched holes and buried themselves from such an unpleasant admixture
+of sounds and concatenation of iron projectiles, which seemed at war
+with one another, coming from two opposite directions at one and the
+same time.
+
+If these blacks were only intended to carry the ladders to the three
+light companies on the left, they were too late. The great bulk of them
+were cut to pieces before the ladders were within reach of them; even if
+the best troops in the world had been carrying them, they would not have
+been up in time. This was very odd, and more than odd; it looked as if
+folly stalked abroad in the English camp. One or two officers went to
+the front in search of some responsible person to obtain orders _ad
+interim_; finding myself the senior officer, I at once, making a double
+as it were, or, as Napoleon recommended, marched to the spot where the
+heaviest firing was going on; at a run we neared the American line. The
+mist was now rapidly clearing away, but, owing to the dense smoke, we
+could not at first distinguish the attacking columns of the British
+troops to our right.
+
+We now also caught a view of the seventh and the forty-third regiments
+in _echelon_ on our right, near the wood, the royal fusileers being
+within about 300 yards of the enemy's lines, and the forty-third
+deploying into line 200 yards in _echelon_ behind the fusileers. These
+two regiments were every now and then almost enveloped by the clouds of
+smoke that hung over their heads, and floated on their flanks, and the
+echo from the cannonade and musketry was so tremendous in the forests,
+that the vibration seemed as if the earth were cracking and tumbling to
+pieces, or as if the heavens were rent asunder by the most terrific
+peals of thunder that ever rumbled; it was the most awful and the
+grandest mixture of sounds to be conceived; the woods seemed to crack to
+an interminable distance, each cannon report was answered one hundred
+fold, and produced an intermingled roar surpassing strange. And this
+phenomenon can neither be fancied nor described, save by those who can
+bear evidence of the fact. And the flashes of fire looked as if coming
+out of the bowels of the earth, so little above its surface were the
+batteries of the Americans.
+
+We had run the gauntlet, from the left to the centre in front of the
+American lines, under a cross fire, in hopes of joining in the assault,
+and had a fine view of the sparkling of the musketry, and the liquid
+flashes of the cannon. And melancholy to relate, all at once many
+soldiers were met wildly rushing out of the dense clouds of smoke,
+lighted up by a sparkling sheet of fire, which hovered over the
+ensanguined field. Regiments were shattered and dispersed--all order was
+at an end. And the dismal spectacle was seen of the dark shadows of men,
+like skirmishers, breaking out of the clouds of smoke, which
+majestically rolled along the even surface of the field. And so
+astonished was I at such a panic, that I said to a retiring soldier,
+"have we or the Americans attacked?" for I had never seen troops in such
+a hurry without being followed. "No," replied the man, with the
+countenance of despair, and out of breath, as he ran along, "we
+attacked, sir." For still the reverberation was so intense toward the
+great wood, that any one would have thought the great fighting was going
+on there instead of immediately in front.
+
+Lieut. Duncan Campbell, of our regiment, was seen to our left running
+about in circles, first staggering one way, then another, and at length
+fell upon the sod helplessly on his face, and again tumbled, and when he
+was picked up, he was found to be blind from the effect of grape-shot,
+which had torn open his forehead, giving him a slight wound in the leg,
+and also ripped the scabbard from his side, and knocked the cap from his
+head. While being borne insensible to the rear, he still clenched the
+hilt of his sword with a convulsive grasp, the blade thereof being
+broken off close at the hilt with grape-shot, and in a state of delirium
+and suffering he lived for a few days.
+
+The first officer we met was Lieutenant-Colonel Stovin, of the staff,
+who was unhorsed, without his hat, and bleeding down the left side of
+his face. He at first thought the two hundred were the whole regiment,
+and he said, "Forty-third, for God's sake save the day!"
+Lieutenant-Colonel Smith of the rifles, and one of Packenham's staff,
+then rode up at full gallop from the right, (he had a few months before
+brought to England the despatches of the capture of Washington) and said
+to me, "Did you ever see such a scene?--There is nothing left but the
+seventh and forty third! just draw up here for a few minutes, to show
+front, that the repulsed troops may re-form." For the chances now were,
+as the greater portion of the actually attacking corps were stricken
+down, and the remainder dispersed, that the Americans would become the
+assailants. The ill-fated rocket was discharged before the British
+troops moved on; the consequence was, that every American gun was warned
+by such a silly signal to be laid on the parapets, ready to be
+discharged with the fullest effect.
+
+The misty field of battle was now inundated with wounded officers and
+soldiers, who were going to the rear from the right, left, and centre;
+in fact, little more than one thousand soldiers were left unscathed out
+of the three thousand who attacked the American lines, and they fell
+like the very blades of grass beneath the scythe of the mower. Packenham
+was killed; Gibbes was mortally wounded; his brigade dispersed like the
+dust before the whirlwind, and Keane was wounded. The command of his
+Majesty's forces at this critical juncture now fell to Major-general
+Lambert, the only general left, and he was in reserve with his fine
+brigade.
+
+The rifle corps individually took post to resist any forward movements
+of the enemy, but the ground already named being under a cross fire of
+at least twenty pieces of artillery, the advantage was all on the side
+of the Americans, who in a crowd might have completely run down a few
+scattered troops, exposed to such an overpowering force of artillery.
+The black troops behaved in the most shameful manner to a man, and,
+although hardly exposed to fire, were in abominable consternation, lying
+down in all directions. One broad beaver, with the ample folds of the
+coarse blanket, thrown across the shoulders of the Americans, was as
+terrible in their eyes as a panther might be while springing among a
+timid multitude. These black corps, it is said, had behaved well at some
+West India islands, where the thermometer was more congenial to their
+feelings. Lieut. Hill (now Capt. Hill) said, in his shrewd manner, "Look
+at the seventh and the forty-third, like seventy-fours becalmed!" As
+soon as the action was over, and some troops were formed in our rear, we
+then, under a smart fire of grape and round shot, moved to the right,
+and joined our own corps, which had been ordered to lie down at the edge
+of the ditch; and some of the old soldiers, with rage depicted on their
+countenances, were demanding why they were not led on to the assault.
+The fire of the Americans, from behind their barricades, had been indeed
+so murderous, and had caused so sudden a repulse, that it was difficult
+to persuade ourselves that such an event had happened--the whole affair
+being more like a dream, or some scene of enchantment, than reality.
+
+And thus it was: on the left bank of the river, three generals, seven
+colonels, and seventy five officers, making a total of seventeen hundred
+and eighty-one officers and soldiers, had fallen in a few minutes.
+
+The royal fusileers and the Monmouthshire light infantry, from the
+beginning to the end of the battle, were astounded at the ill success of
+the combat; and while formed within grape range, were lost in amazement
+at not being led on to the attack, being kept as quiet spectators of the
+onslaught.
+
+About an hour and a half after the principal attack had failed, we heard
+a rapid discharge of fire-arms, and a few hurried sounds of cannon on
+the right bank of the river, when all was again silent, until three
+distinct rounds of British cheers gladdened our ears from that
+direction, although at least one mile and a quarter from where we were
+stationed. They were Colonel Thornton's gallant troops, who were
+successful in the assault on the American works in that quarter, the
+details of which, for a brief space, I must postpone.
+
+For _five_ hours the enemy plied us with grape and round shot; some of
+the wounded lying in the mud or on wet grass, managed to crawl away; but
+every now and then some unfortunate man was lifted off the ground by
+round shot, and lay killed or mangled.--During the tedious hours we
+remained in front, it was necessary to lie on the ground, to cover
+ourselves from the projectiles. An officer of our regiment was in a
+reclining posture, when a grape-shot passed through both his knees; at
+first he sank back faintly, but at length opening his eyes, and looking
+at his wounds, he said, "Carry me away. I am _chilled to death_;" and as
+he was hoisted on the men's shoulders, more round and grape shot passed
+his head; taking off his hat, he waved it; and after many narrow
+escapes, got out of range, suffered amputation of both legs, and died of
+his wounds on ship-board, after enduring all the pain of the surgical
+operation, and passing down the lake in an open boat.
+
+A wounded soldier, who was lying among the slain, two hundred yards
+behind us, continued, without any cessation, for two hours, to raise his
+arm up and down with a convulsive motion, which excited the most painful
+sensations among us; and as the enemy's balls now and then killed or
+maimed some soldiers, we could not help casting our eyes toward the
+moving arm, which really was a dreadful magnet of attraction; it even
+caught the attention of the enemy, who, without seeing the body, fired
+several round shot at it. A black soldier lay near us, who had received
+a blow from a cannon-ball, which had obliterated all his features; and
+although blind, and suffering the most terrible anguish, he was
+employing himself in scratching a hole to put his money into. A tree,
+about two feet in diameter and fifteen in height, with a few scattered
+branches at the top, was the only object to break the monotonous scene.
+This tree was near the right of our regiment; the Americans, seeing some
+persons clustering around it, fired a thirty-two pound shot, which
+struck the tree exactly in the centre, and buried itself in the trunk
+with a loud concussion. Curiosity prompted some of us to take a hasty
+inspection of it, and I could clearly see the rusty ball within the
+tree. I thrust my arm in a little above the elbow joint, and laid hold
+of it; it was truly amazing, between the intervals of firing the cannon,
+to see the risks continually run by the officers to take a peep at this
+good shot. Owing to this circumstance, the vicinity of the tree became
+rather a hot berth; but the American gunners failed to hit it a second
+time, although some balls passed very near on each side, and for an hour
+it was a source of excessive jocularity to us. In the middle of the day
+a flag of truce was sent by Gen. Lambert to Gen. Jackson, to be allowed
+to bury the dead, which was acceded to by the latter on certain
+conditions."
+
+
+NOTE F.--_Page 241._
+
+To the politeness of Dr. William Dunbar, a planter of Mississippi, the
+author is indebted for many important papers relating to this region,
+formerly in the possession of his father--a gentleman well known to the
+philosophic world as the author of several valuable scientific papers
+upon the natural history and meteorology of this country. Among the
+manuscripts of this gentleman in the author's possession, is the
+following account of the manufacture of Indigo, written by himself, then
+an extensive indigo planter, near New-Orleans.
+
+"The reservoir water in or near the field where the indigo plant is
+cultivated, is prepared, in lower Louisiana, by digging a canal from
+eighty to one hundred feet long, and 25 or 30 feet wide. The plant is in
+its strength when in full blossom: it is then cut down, and disposed
+regularly in a wooden or brick vault, about ten feet square, and three
+feet deep; water is then poured or pumped over it until the plant is
+covered; it is suffered to remain until it has undergone a fermentation,
+analogous to the vinous fermentation. If it stands too long, a second
+fermentation commences, bearing affinity to the acetous fermentation:
+your liquor is then spoiled, and will yield you but little matter of a
+bad quality--sometimes none at all. The great difficulty is to know this
+proper point of fermentation, which cannot sometimes be ascertained to
+any degree of certainty; when the plant is rich, and the weather warm, a
+tolerable judgment may be formed by the ascent or swelling of the liquor
+in the vat; at other times no alteration is observed. But to return; the
+liquor is at length drawn off into another vat, called the beater; it
+may remain in the first vat, called the steeper, from ten to fifteen
+hours, and even twenty-four hours, in the cool weather of autumn. The
+liquor is agitated in the beater in a manner similar to the churning of
+butter; when first drawn off, it is of a pale straw colour, but
+gradually turns to a pale green, from thence to a deeper green, and at
+length to a deep blue. This is occasioned by the grains of indigo, at
+first dissolved in the water, and afterward extricated by beating. The
+indigo is now ready to fall to the bottom by its superior specific
+gravity; but a precipitant is often used to cause a more hasty
+decomposition, and consequent precipitation. This is effected most
+powerfully by lime-water, but it may also be done by any mucilaginous
+substance, as the juice of the wild mallows, purslain, leaves of the
+elm-tree, and of many others indigenous in this country. The saliva
+produces the same effects. A few hours after the precipitation, the
+water standing above the indigo is drawn off by holes perforated for
+that purpose; the indigo matter is then swept out and farther drained,
+either by putting it in bags of Russia duck, or more commodiously in
+wooden cases with a bottom of cloth; after which it is put in a wooden
+frame, with a loose Osnaburg cloth between it and the frame, and
+subjected to a considerable press--light at first, but heavy at the
+last; and when solid enough, cut into squares, which shrink up in drying
+to half their first bulk. After it appears to be dry, it is put up in
+heaps to sweat and dry the second time; it is then fit for market. All
+that has not been injured by missing the true point of fermentation,
+sells here generally at a dollar a pound. The planter often, by mistake,
+makes his indigo of a superior quality, so as to be equal to the
+Guatemala indigo, and be worth from one dollar and a quarter to two
+dollars. This happens from the indigo maker's drawing off his water from
+the steeper too soon, before it has arrived at its due point of
+fermentation. In this case the quantity is so much lessened, as by no
+means to render the planter compensated by the superior quality. The
+grand desideratum to bring the making of indigo to some degree of
+certainty, is the discovery of some chymical test, that shall
+demonstrate the passing of the liquor from the first to the second
+fermentation. This test will probably be discovered in some saline body,
+but which, or in what quantity, it is yet difficult to ascertain."
+
+
+NOTE G.--_Page 245._
+
+The following additional observations upon New-Orleans, its parish, and
+neighbourhood, convey, at a glance, the general resources of this region
+of country, besides containing much information not embodied in the
+work:--
+
+"The parish of Orleans includes the city. Chef Menteur, Rigolets, Bayou
+Bienvenu, Bayou Gentilly, and Bayou St. Johns, are all in this parish,
+and are famous in the history of the late war, Lake Pontchartrain, lake
+Borgne, Barataria bay, gulf of Mexico, Caminda bay, lake Des Islets,
+lake Rond, Little lake, and Quacha lake, are in the limits of this
+parish. Sugar, and after that, cotton, are the staples. Along the coast
+there are groves of orange-trees, and the fig is extensively raised. In
+this parish are the greater part of the defences, that are intended to
+fortify the city of New-Orleans against the attack of a foreign foe. The
+chief fortifications are on those points, by which the British
+approached toward the city during the late war. Extensive fortifications
+of brick have been erected at Petits Coquilles, Chef Menteur, and Bayou
+Bienvenu, the two former guarding the passes of the Rigolet, between
+lake Borgne and lake Pontchartrain, and the latter the approach from
+lake Borgne toward New-Orleans. A great work, to mount 120 cannon, is
+erecting at Placquemine on the Mississippi. These works, when finished,
+will not fall far short of the expense 2,000,000 dollars. Fort St.
+Johns, at the entrance of the Bayou St. Johns into lake Pontchartrain,
+is well situated for the defence of the pass. It is an ancient
+establishment of the former regime. The guns are of vast calibre; but
+they appear to be sealed, and the walls have a ruinous aspect. These
+points of defence have been selected with great judgment, and have been
+fortified with so much care, that it is supposed no enemy could ever
+again approach the city by the same passes, through which it was
+approached by the British in the past war. New-Orleans, the key of the
+Mississippi valley, and the great depot of its agriculture and commerce,
+is already a city of immense importance, and is every year becoming more
+so. This city has strong natural defences, in its position and its
+climate. It is now strongly defended by artificial fortifications. But,
+after all, the best defence of this, and of all other cities, is the
+vigilant and patriotic energy of the battalions of free men, who can
+now, by steamboats, be brought down to its defence in a few days from
+the remotest points of the west. It is not to be forgotten, that by the
+same conveyance, an enemy might also be brought against it.
+
+Of the other parishes, we may remark, in general, that as far up the
+Mississippi as the parish of Baton Rouge, on the east side, and Point
+Coupee on the west, the cultivation of the sugar-cane is the chief
+pursuit of the inhabitants. The same may be said of Placquemine,
+Lafourche, and Attakapas. The staple article of the western parishes
+beyond is cotton.
+
+The parishes north of lake Pontchartrain, which formerly made a part of
+Florida, with the exception of some few tracts, and the alluvions of
+Pearl river and Bogue Chitte, have a sterile soil. The inhabitants raise
+large herds of cattle, and send great quantities of lumber to
+New-Orleans, together with pitch, tar, turpentine and coal. They burn
+great quantities of lime from the beds of shells, which cover large
+tracts near the lakes; they also send sand from the beaches of the
+lakes, for covering the pavements of New-Orleans. They have also, for
+some years past, manufactured brick to a great amount, and have
+transported them across the lake. They have a great number of schooners
+that ply on the lakes, in this and other employments. The people engaged
+in this extensive business, find the heavy tolls demanded on the canal a
+great impediment in the way of the profit of this trade.[12] The country
+generally is covered with open pine woods, and has small tracts of
+second-rate land interspersed among these tracts. The country is
+valuable from its inexhaustible supplies of timber and wood for the
+New-Orleans market.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[11] These were George Cooper--Elijah W. Brown, now a wealthy planter in
+Monroe, Washita, La. and I. K. Cook, for many years post a leading
+editor in this state.
+
+[12] The rail-road is now the medium of conveyance for these articles of
+produce to the city; the expense is thereby much lessened, and the
+facilities for this trade increased.
+
+
+
+ END OF VOL. I.
+
+
+
+
+    +------------------------------------------------------+
+    |             Transcriber's Note:                      |
+    |                                                      |
+    | Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the         |
+    | original document have been preserved.               |
+    |                                                      |
+    | Typographical errors corrected in the text:          |
+    | Page  vii  phosporescence changed to phosphorescence |
+    | Page   ix  humam changed to human                    |
+    | Page   50  supended changed to suspended             |
+    | Page   54  irridescence changed to iridescence       |
+    | Page   56  Castillian changed to Castilian           |
+    | Page   59  superceded changed to superseded          |
+    | Page   64  Marquetti changed to Marquette            |
+    | Page   67  Mississipi changed to Mississippi         |
+    | Page   71  pannelling changed to panelling           |
+    | Page   84  succssion changed to succession           |
+    | Page  106  Goliahs changed to Goliaths               |
+    | Page  106  Arrarat changed to Ararat                 |
+    | Page  109  appaling changed to appalling             |
+    | Page  111  appaling changed to appealing             |
+    | Page  112  negociating changed to negotiating        |
+    | Page  123  faec changed to face                      |
+    | Page  129  mphatically changed to emphatically       |
+    | Page  131  deposite changed to deposit               |
+    | Page  149  tunnel changed to funnel                  |
+    | Page  164  Apartement changed to Appartement         |
+    | Page  166  cis-atlantic changed cis-Atlantic         |
+    | Page  208  steet changed to street                   |
+    | Page  211  callaboose changed to calaboose           |
+    | Page  212  huzzars changed to hussars                |
+    | Page  222  panneling changed to panelling            |
+    | Page  224  pantomine changed to pantomime            |
+    | Page  224  Marseilloise changed to Marseillaise      |
+    | Page  230  smoth changed to smooth                   |
+    | Page  236  chimnies changed to chimneys              |
+    | Page  236  turkies changed to turkeys                |
+    | Page  238  freeest changed to freest                 |
+    | Page  238  matressing changed to mattressing         |
+    | Page  243  ros changed to rose                       |
+    | Page  247  meet changed to meant                     |
+    | Page  274  circnmstance changed to circumstance      |
+    | Page  275  mucillaginous changed to mucilaginous     |
+    | Page  276  Guatimala changed to Guatemala            |
+    | Page  277  Coup e changed to Coupee                  |
+    +------------------------------------------------------+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The South-West, by Joseph Holt Ingraham
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