1 files changed, 6010 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/34867.txt b/34867.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5270141
--- /dev/null
+++ b/34867.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,6010 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Ports, Harbours, Watering-places and
+Picturesque Scenery of Great Britain Vol. 2, by William Finden
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Ports, Harbours, Watering-places and Picturesque Scenery of Great Britain Vol. 2
+
+Author: William Finden
+
+Illustrator: W. H. Bartlett
+             J. D. Harding
+             T. Creswick
+
+Release Date: January 6, 2011 [EBook #34867]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE PORTS, HARBOURS ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Chris Curnow, Susan Skinner and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by The Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+FINDEN'S
+
+PORTS, HARBOURS
+
+AND
+
+WATERING PLACES.
+
+[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO THE PORT OF BERWICK.]
+
+
+
+
+THE
+
+PORTS, HARBOURS, WATERING-PLACES,
+
+And Picturesque Scenery
+
+OF
+
+GREAT BRITAIN.
+
+ILLUSTRATED BY VIEWS TAKEN ON THE SPOT,
+
+BY
+
+W. H. BARTLETT, J. D. HARDING, T. CRESWICK,
+
+AND OTHERS.
+
+WITH DESCRIPTIONS, HISTORICAL AND TOPOGRAPHICAL.
+
+VOL. II.
+
+JAMES S. VIRTUE, CITY ROAD, AND IVY LANE, LONDON.
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF PLATES.
+
+VOLUME II.
+
+
+THE RIVER MERSEY, AT LIVERPOOL.
+
+LIVERPOOL--CANNING DOCK AND CUSTOM-HOUSE.
+
+--------- ST. NICHOLAS' CHURCH, WITH SHIPPING.
+
+NEW BRIGHTON, NEAR LIVERPOOL.
+
+MATLOCK, DERBYSHIRE.
+
+CONWAY CASTLE, WITH THE SUSPENSION-BRIDGE.
+
+------ QUAY, WITH THE CASTLE AND BRIDGE.
+
+MENAI BRIDGE, WITH THE STRAIT.
+
+BANGOR, AND PORT-PENRHYN.
+
+BEAUMARIS, WITH THE MENAI STRAIT.
+
+HOLYHEAD, THE LIGHTHOUSE, TRIUMPHAL-ARCH, &c.
+
+--------- SOUTHSTACK LIGHTHOUSE.
+
+CARNARVON CASTLE, THE EAGLE TOWER.
+
+--------- GENERAL VIEW.
+
+HARLECH CASTLE, NORTH WALES.
+
+BARMOUTH, WATERING-PLACE.
+
+SWANSEA BAY, WITH LIGHTHOUSE IN THE DISTANCE.
+
+OYSTERMOUTH CASTLE, OVERLOOKING SWANSEA BAY.
+
+THE MUMBLES' LIGHTHOUSE, SWANSEA BAY.
+
+THE NASS SANDS' LIGHTHOUSES.
+
+CARDIFF, GLAMORGANSHIRE.
+
+GLOUCESTER, PORT AND CATHEDRAL.
+
+BRISTOL CITY, FROM ROWNHAM FERRY.
+
+------- REDCLIFFE CHURCH AND BASIN.
+
+CLIFTON, WITH THE NEW SUSPENSION-BRIDGE.
+
+BATH, WITH THE CITY, CATHEDRAL, AND DOWNS.
+
+CORNWALL, TINTAGEL CASTLE.
+
+PLYMOUTH, DEVON.
+
+--------- MOUNT EDGECOMBE.
+
+BRIXHAM, TORBAY, DEVON.
+
+EXMOUTH, DEVON.
+
+BUDLEIGH SALTERTON.
+
+SIDMOUTH, VIEW FROM THE BEACH.
+
+CAVES AT LADRAM BAY.
+
+WEYMOUTH, WITH THE HARBOUR.
+
+HURST CASTLE, KING CHARLES'S PRISON.
+
+COWES, ISLE OF WIGHT.
+
+SOUTHAMPTON.
+
+------------ THE ANCIENT WALLS.
+
+PORTSMOUTH, ENTRANCE TO THE HARBOUR.
+
+----------- RIGGING-HULK AND FRIGATE.
+
+----------- VIEW FROM THE SALUTING PLATFORM.
+
+GOSPORT, FLAG-SHIP SALUTING.
+
+SPITHEAD, WITH SHIPS OF WAR.
+
+BRIGHTON, SUSSEX.
+
+HASTINGS, WITH THE TOWN AND CASTLE.
+
+--------- VIEW ON THE BEACH.
+
+RYE, SUSSEX, WITH ITS ANCIENT GATE, CHURCH, &c.
+
+FOLKESTONE, FROM THE BEACH.
+
+DOVER, WITH THE CASTLE.
+
+------ FROM THE CASTLE.
+
+SANDWICH, KENT, ANCIENT GATE AND DRAWBRIDGE.
+
+RAMSGATE, KENT, ENTRANCE TO THE HARBOUR.
+
+BROADSTAIRS, ISLE OF THANET, VESSEL ASHORE.
+
+WRECK IN KINGSGATE-BAY.
+
+MARGATE, TWO VESSELS ASHORE.
+
+CHATHAM, WITH THE DOCKYARD.
+
+GRAVESEND, FROM THE RIVER.
+
+LONDON, FROM GREENWICH PARK.
+
+PORT OF LONDON.
+
+THE TOWER.
+
+VIGNETTE-ENTRANCE TO THE PORT OF BERWICK.
+
+
+
+
+THE
+
+PORTS AND HARBOURS
+
+OF
+
+GREAT BRITAIN.
+
+
+
+
+BERWICK.--LIGHTHOUSE ON THE PIER.
+
+
+The view of the Lighthouse, at the head of Berwick Pier (which forms the
+vignette to our Second Volume), is taken from the entrance to the
+harbour, about half a mile below the bridge. This Pier, the building of
+which was commenced in 1810, stands on the north side of the river, and
+is chiefly erected on the foundations of an old one, which is said to
+have been built in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. From the lighthouse,
+which was finished in 1826, two lights are exhibited at night, the one
+above the other. The upper one, which is of a pale, white colour, is
+lighted from sunset to sunrise; the lower one, which is of a bright red,
+is a tide-light, and is only displayed during the time that there is ten
+feet water on the bar.
+
+Berwick Harbour is not well adapted for vessels of large burthen, for
+the greater part of the shore, in front of the quay, is dry at low
+water. On the Tweedmouth side, near the Car Rock, is the best water
+within the bar; and a vessel drawing from sixteen to eighteen feet water
+may lie there at all hours of the tide without touching the ground. The
+entrance to the harbour is narrow, as a bank of sand stretches out to
+the eastward, from the Spittal shore, to the extent of nearly half a
+mile, and approaches to within a cable's length of the rocks on the
+north. When the wind is from the eastward, there is always a swell on
+the bar; and the ebb-tide--more especially when there is a _fresh_ in
+the river, in consequence of rain--runs out with such velocity that it
+is impossible for a vessel to make head against it. Vessels bound for
+Berwick, which cannot take the harbour in bad weather, usually seek
+shelter in Leith Roads.
+
+The salmon fishery forms a most important branch of the trade of
+Berwick. About the middle of the last century, the fish used chiefly to
+be conveyed to London by small vessels of about forty tons burthen,
+belonging to Harwich and Gravesend, engaged by the London dealers; the
+fresh-caught salmon and gilse were conveyed in wells in the hold, but a
+large portion was sent pickled in kits. About 1787, the practice of
+packing salmon in pounded ice was suggested by George Dempster, Esq., of
+Dunnichen, then M.P. for Cupar, to Mr. John Richardson, a salmon-dealer,
+of Perth, who immediately adopted it; and the next year the
+salmon-dealers of Berwick followed his example.
+
+Most of the salmon sent from Berwick to London are caught between the
+mouth of the Tweed and Norham, which is about eight miles up the river,
+and the highest point to which the tide flows. In 1799, the yearly
+rental of the fisheries within this distance, on both sides of the
+river, was estimated at L10,000; and in 1817 it was nearly double that
+sum. In consequence of the decline of the salmon fishery since 1820, it
+does not at the present time exceed L9,000. Various causes have been
+assigned for the decline of the salmon fishery in the Tweed; such as the
+building of the New Pier at the north side of the harbour; with the
+draining of lands and the destruction of fish in close time towards the
+upper parts of the river. How the building of the New Pier, and the
+draining of lands in Selkirk and Roxburghshire affect the breed of
+salmon, has not been clearly shown; and poaching in close time has not
+prevailed to a greater extent during the last twenty years than in the
+twenty years previous to 1816. The unremitting manner in which the river
+was _legally_ fished between the mouth of the Tweed and Norham, from
+1800 to 1817, is more likely to have been one great cause of the
+decline; but the proprietors of the fisheries seem unwilling to admit
+that a river may be over-fished, as well as land exhausted by
+over-cropping.
+
+It can scarcely be said that there is a public market for salmon in
+Berwick, almost all that are caught being engrossed by factors or
+fish-curers, and sent to London; and salmon is generally as dear there
+as in the metropolis. The fish, as soon as caught, are packed in large
+boxes, between layers of pounded ice, and in this manner conveyed to the
+metropolis.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: THE MERSEY AT LIVERPOOL.]
+
+
+
+
+THE MERSEY.
+
+FROM LIVERPOOL.
+
+
+    "A thousand keels the subject wave divide,--
+    Float with the flow, or stem the ebbing tide,--
+    Winged messengers that haste, with sails unfurl'd,
+    To barter produce with some distant world!--
+    With oar and paddle, sail and thundering steam,
+    They row--they cleave--they plough the Mersey's stream;
+    That stream, which, fretted by a thousand prows,
+    No silent rest, no liquid slumber knows;
+    Whate'er the hour, whatever wind prevail,
+    Behold the outward and the homeward sail!"
+
+The Mersey is to Liverpool what the Thames is to London--the grand
+channel of mercantile prosperity--the main artery that carries health
+and vigour into the heart of the city, and thence distributes them by a
+thousand ramifications through all classes of the community. The
+navigation of this river has long been an object of primary import to
+the prosperity of our national trade; and therefore every suggestion
+which promised to obviate and remove those impediments which nature had
+thrown in the way, has been met with the greatest promptness and
+liberality. Whatever it was possible for art to accomplish has been
+attempted, and that so successfully that, if the ultimate object has not
+yet been obtained, the navigation of the Mersey has at least been
+rendered comparatively safe and expeditious. The grand enterprise for
+facilitating the intercourse between Liverpool and Manchester was
+commenced in 1720, when a canal was formed, and the navigation of the
+Mersey and Irwell was so greatly improved, that the "flats"--which were
+previously ten or eleven days in going from one town to the other--could
+now, by taking advantage of the tide, accomplish the same distance in as
+many hours. How amazingly this distance has been again shortened in our
+own times, by the introduction of steam power, is familiar to every one.
+
+The rise and expansion of Liverpool--in all that regards it as a
+mercantile emporium--have taken place within the last two centuries. In
+1650, the town--a mere fishing hamlet--consisted of only five or six
+streets. A pool, branching from the river, extended over the space now
+occupied by the new Custom-house and the three streets adjoining; and,
+for the convenience of intercourse, a ferry-boat was kept at the corner
+of Church-street and Whitechapel. This ferry was at last superseded by a
+bridge, erected by the proprietor of the land, Lord Molyneux; and since
+that period the advancement of the Mersey in the list of great navigable
+rivers has been unprecedentedly rapid and successful. The grand
+municipal improvements, however, have all been effected within the last
+century. During that interval, splendid squares, streets, and public
+monuments have sprung up into existence. Previously to that epoch there
+was no spirit, no scope for commercial enterprise, and consequently no
+harbour, nor dock, nor warehouse. But now spacious harbours extend for
+several miles along the bank of the Mersey: on the bosom of the river
+stately merchantmen, outward or homeward bound, laden with the produce
+of every clime, are continually passing and repassing; while the usual
+embellishments which follow a train of successful industry are apparent
+at every step of our progress, adding ever varying features of beauty
+and animation to the landscape. He who would form a just estimate of the
+vast and unlimited resources of this great commercial city, should spend
+at least a day, partly in a promenade along the banks, and partly on the
+spring-tide of the Mersey.
+
+This river is navigable for vessels of considerable burden so far as the
+mouth of the Irwell,--a distance of thirty-five miles from Liverpool. It
+derives its source from the confluence of several small streams on the
+Cheshire and Derbyshire frontier, and pursues a serpentine course,
+gradually inclining to the south-west. Its largest tributary is the
+Irwell, which falls into it near the village of Flixton, seven miles
+from Manchester. A little below Warrington, the Mersey expands into a
+broad arm of the sea, and turning abruptly to the south-west, contracts
+its channel as it passes Liverpool to about three quarters of a mile in
+breadth; but in proceeding farther inland, it again increases its width
+to more than three miles. This peculiarity is very advantageous to the
+port, as the great body of water, passing and repassing at every tide,
+keeps the navigation of the Mersey always open. A range of sand banks
+run parallel with the coast for many miles, but several channels
+intervene, giving sufficient depth for vessels of the heaviest draught
+at high water, at which time the Mersey presents the most interesting
+and striking scene,--particularly when a westerly wind favours the
+arrival of the numerous fleets destined to this port, bearing the flags
+and freighted with the produce of all nations that have found a place in
+the chart of commercial enterprise.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: CANNING DOCK AND CUSTOM HOUSE, LIVERPOOL.
+
+Dedicated to the Right Hon. Viscount Sandon, M. P.]
+
+
+
+
+CANNING DOCK AND CUSTOM-HOUSE,
+
+LIVERPOOL.
+
+
+Liverpool presents one of the most remarkable instances on record of the
+vast influence of commercial speculation, when pursued with steady
+vigour, prudence, and resolution. Commerce is the first step to empire,
+and, successfully prosecuted, never fails to consolidate the strength
+and independence of the state. To this important end no city in the
+kingdom has so amply contributed as Liverpool; none of our rivers, the
+Thames excepted, has wafted to our shores so many precious cargoes as
+the Mersey, nor exported so much of the produce of our native
+manufactures to all parts of the world. This great commercial city,
+rapid as its progress has been, is still advancing in the career of
+prosperity; hardly a month passes without some local improvement,--some
+substantial proof that her trade is on the increase, stimulating
+domestic industry, and affording the means of unlimited intercourse with
+every shore of the commercial world.
+
+Canning Dock, with the Custom-house, forms one of the finest points of
+view in Liverpool, presenting at one view a building of elegant design
+and execution, and a forest of masts which sufficiently indicate the
+bustle of trade, and the air of business that pervade every feature of
+the place--animate or inanimate. Canning Dock--so distinguished in
+honour of Mr. Canning, a name happily identified with Liverpool and the
+prosperity of its trade,--covers a space of five hundred yards in
+length. On the west side it communicates with three graving docks, where
+vessels are laid up for repairs, and is chiefly occupied by vessels
+trading to the northern coast. It is the first of the seven docks
+extending southward, and is generally filled by vessels in the act of
+discharging or taking in their cargoes. It presents a scene of great
+bustle and activity, and, though only one out of many, affords the
+stranger a very clear idea of the vast amount of traffic that is daily
+shipped or entered at this emporium.
+
+The Custom-House is of recent date, and replaced the old official
+buildings, which were found quite inadequate to the purposes of a daily
+extending commerce. Through the united interest of Canning and
+Huskisson, negociations were entered into with Government as to the
+necessity of a new Custom-house; and after a short time arrangements
+were concluded for its immediate erection. Mr. Foster, architect to the
+Liverpool corporation, was engaged to prepare the designs, and made
+choice of the present site as the most appropriate for a commercial
+building of this size and character.
+
+The lower apartments of the Custom-house consist of spacious vaults for
+the safe custody of bonded and other goods; and in the centre is the
+apartment known as the Long Room. The offices of customs occupy the
+whole extent of the west wing; and it is intended that part of the east
+wing shall be appropriated to the use of the general post-office. Above
+these are the excise offices and those of the dock-treasurer and
+secretaries. The remaining portions of the edifice are subdivided into
+the board-room, the dock-committee's offices, and the stamp-office.
+
+The chasteness and beauty of the Ionic style of architecture adopted in
+this magnificent edifice have been much and justly admired. The centre,
+and the east and west fronts are adorned by lofty porticos, each
+supported by eight Ionic columns. The centre of the building is
+surmounted by a magnificent dome, lighted by sixteen windows, and
+ornamented round by pilasters. Inclosed within the outer dome is a
+smaller one encircled by twelve windows, so as to afford sufficient
+light to the Long Room. The interior of this building will amply repay
+the stranger for a visit. The grand front is opposite Castle-street;
+and, entering in this direction, the first object which claims attention
+is the massive grouping of the pilasters which support the floor of the
+Long Room over head. The stairs, flanked by handsome iron
+balustrades,--the landing-places supported by eight Ionic stone columns,
+each of a single piece,--the four pilasters, and the elaborate
+ceilings,--are all deserving of particular attention. The Long Room is
+altogether splendidly designed and executed; lighted by fourteen windows
+on the sides, and by twelve as already observed, in the inner dome. The
+ceiling is divided by lateral and transverse beams into regular
+compartments, all beautifully ornamented. At each of the opposite ends
+of this noble apartment are a corresponding flight of stairs and
+landing-places. But to convey a just description of this monument to the
+genius of commerce is at once difficult and tedious; we therefore
+recommend all who may visit Liverpool, as admirers of its docks,
+harbours, and splendid edifices, to devote an hour to the
+Custom-house--a building which reflects great honour upon the architect,
+and serves as a lasting ornament to the second city of the empire.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: ST. NICHOLAS' CHURCH, LIVERPOOL.
+
+(from St. George's Basin)]
+
+
+
+
+ST. NICHOLAS' CHURCH AND ST. GEORGE'S BASIN,
+
+LIVERPOOL.
+
+
+    "Here have the wild deer bounded,--here the trees
+    Waved, a wide-spreading forest, in the breeze!
+    Then came the woodman's axe,--the forest fell,--
+    The shrine arose, and peal'd the chapel bell;--
+    The crowd of pilgrims and the sound of prayer
+    Disturbed the woodland savage in his lair....
+    What hear we now!--what see we in the gale!
+    The city's shout,--the far-expanding sail,--
+    The crowded Mart,--the tramp of busy feet--
+    And wheels that shake the densely-peopled street."
+
+St. Nicholas, or the Old Church, is supposed to stand upon the site of
+an ancient chapel built about the time of the Conquest. But whether this
+be correct or not, there is at least evidence to prove that, in 1361,
+license for burial here was granted by the Bishop of Lichfield. It was
+endowed by Queen Elizabeth with a small sum, under five pounds, to be
+paid annually out of the chantry rents to the minister; and another sum,
+between five and six pounds, as a yearly grant to the schoolmaster. In
+the olden time a statue of the patron, St. Nicholas, erected in the
+churchyard, was much frequented by mariners, who believed that an
+offering made to the saint would conciliate the winds in their favour,
+and secure a prosperous voyage. Time, however, put an end to this
+confederacy between the saint and seamen. St. Nicholas was dethroned;
+and for a time the winds "blew as if they would have cracked their
+cheeks" at the downfall of one who had so long laid them under arrest.
+But at length a better knowledge of the compass and the coast made the
+seaman ample compensation for the loss of his ghostly patron, and showed
+him that a skilful mariner and a stout bark are better securities
+against storm and tempest than any saint in the calendar.
+
+In 1774 this church was rebuilt,--"The old roof, walls, and Gothic
+pillars, the old blue ceiling, black and white clouds, golden sun, moon,
+and stars, painted and gilt thereon," were removed, and the
+re-edification completed, under the direction of Joseph Brooks, Esq. In
+1810 this church was the scene of a dreadful catastrophe; the steeple
+suddenly gave way as the children of the charity-school were entering
+the church. It fell upon the body of the building, and twenty-four lives
+were sacrificed, seventeen of which were girls belonging to the school.
+Many others were severely wounded. The accident was attributed to the
+weakness of an old arch upon which a modern spire had been erected. The
+spire was subsequently restored by Mr. Harrison, of Chester, with a
+degree of taste and execution which does him credit. It consists of an
+ornamented Gothic tower, surmounted by an open lantern, with an air of
+great lightness and elegance, and forming a very striking feature among
+the many architectural objects--civil and ecclesiastical--by which it is
+surrounded. The height of the tower is one hundred and twenty feet, and
+that of the lantern sixty; so that together the steeple has an elevation
+of not less than one hundred and eighty feet. During the night the clock
+opposite the river is illuminated, so that it may serve as a landmark to
+assure the mariner that St. Nicholas is still on the watch for his
+safety, as in the good olden time.
+
+St. George's Dock, from which the view of the Church is taken, was
+constructed according to an act of parliament obtained in 1762, and
+completed at an expenditure of twenty-one thousand pounds. It is two
+hundred and sixty-four yards in length, one hundred in breadth, and
+lined on the east side by a row of very large warehouses, with footpaths
+under the piazzas. Extending along both sides are sheds for merchandise;
+and on the pier-head, at the west side of the dock, are the public
+baths. The latter, comprised in a large building of plain but classical
+design and execution, were erected by the corporation at an expense of
+thirty-six thousand pounds, and opened to the public in the month of
+June, 1829. Nothing could be better adapted to its purpose than this
+great public edifice, in which the twofold recommendation of ornament
+and utility are happily combined. The water is constantly flowing
+through the baths in a fresh current; being supplied from the river at
+high-tide, filtered, and contained in a reservoir of eight hundred tons
+under the centre of the building. Private, cold, shower, warm, tepid,
+medicated, and vapour baths are to be had at all hours; and from the
+excellent manner in which every department is arranged and conducted,
+the inhabitants possess in this establishment one of the great means of
+promoting health and averting disease.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: NEW BRIGHTON.]
+
+
+
+
+NEW BRIGHTON.
+
+
+New Brighton has already taken a prominent station in the list of
+fashionable watering-places, and in several respects bids fair to
+eclipse even the attractions of its celebrated namesake in Sussex.
+Highly favoured by nature in a romantic point of view, the striking
+features of this locality have been duly taken advantage of in
+constructing a series of marine villas, all in harmony with the native
+landscape. These, with the most picturesque effects as viewed from a
+distance, combine every accommodation that can be desired,--either for
+families of distinction, or private individuals; while the air, which
+the invalid inhales from the atmosphere around him, produces a degree of
+vigour and exhilaration, which is rarely experienced in situations more
+inland or less elevated.
+
+                        "The rural wilds
+    Invite; the mountains call you; and the vales,
+    The woods, the streams, and each ambrosial breeze
+    That fans the ever-undulating sky--
+    A kindly sky!"
+
+The honour of founding New Brighton belongs to James Atherton, Esq. A
+bold design, as it at first appeared, but which judgment, taste, and a
+liberal hand have converted into a lasting monument,--creditable alike
+to the originator and to the discriminating public, who have manifested
+a decided preference for the situation, and thus amply justified the
+enterprise. The first step taken by Mr. Atherton was to purchase nearly
+two hundred acres of land, including the site of the future town. These
+were put under the care of persons well instructed in the plan of
+operations. The design was prosecuted with unremitting zeal; houses
+sprang up, streets were laid out, and in a comparatively short time the
+skeleton of New Brighton was completed. Strangers resorted to the spot;
+the citizens of Liverpool became eager for its completion, and for those
+enjoyments which it presented as a summer retreat, as well as for the
+many advantages which it offered to the invalid. Thus encouraged by the
+vote of public approbation, the works made rapid progress, and shortly
+after assumed the name and consideration of a favourite watering-place.
+
+In the design and execution of the various embellishments of the place,
+the architect has never stepped aside from the rules of good taste. The
+pleasure and accommodation of the visitors have been carefully studied.
+Spacious streets, fifteen yards in breadth and nearly a mile in length,
+insure a free circulation of air, and throw open an agreeable promenade
+to the public, who resort thither in great numbers during the summer and
+autumn. The partiality evinced for this watering place, (of which the
+inhabitants can so readily take advantage,) is every day adding to the
+number of its visitors, and thereby contributing to the further
+extension of the original plan. A commodious and elegant hotel has been
+erected, where casual visitors and others, in conjunction with the
+allurements of a well-served table, can enjoy the exhilarating prospect
+of the sea, and the numberless vessels of all denominations that stud
+and traverse its waters. For the accommodation of the resident
+population, a reservoir, containing nearly two thousand gallons of
+water, has been constructed, and supplied from a fine spring on the
+beach.
+
+The Fort and Lighthouse are objects well deserving of attention. The
+former is very strongly built, and covers a space of nearly four
+thousand yards. It is approached from the main land by means of a
+drawbridge, and mounts sixteen pieces of cannon with others in the
+embrasures of the towers. On account of the great sandbank at the
+entrance of the river, it is ordered that every ship of heavy burden
+shall pass within nine hundred yards of the Fort.
+
+The Lighthouse is constructed of Anglesey marble, and is considered a
+masterpiece of its kind. It rises about ninety feet above the rock; each
+stone is worked to a given geometrical form, and made to lock and
+dovetail with those adjoining with great accuracy. The whole is cemented
+together by a liquid volcanic substance brought from the vicinity of
+Mount AEtna, which, in the course of time, becomes as hard as marble. The
+lantern is illuminated by revolving lights--two of which are brilliantly
+white, and the other of a deep red. The work is from the design of Mr.
+Foster, and executed by Mr. Tomkinson, at an expense to the Liverpool
+Corporation of twenty-seven thousand five hundred pounds.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: MATLOCK BATH.]
+
+
+
+
+MATLOCK,
+
+DERBYSHIRE.
+
+
+    "To MATLOCK'S calm, sequester'd vale
+    Bear that maiden, faint and pale!
+    There--'mid streams like music flowing,
+    There--'mid flowers profusely blowing,
+    Health and beauty shall return,
+    And snatch a victim from the urn."
+
+The reputation of the Matlock water is supported by the recorded
+testimony of more than a century; while the picturesque scenery in which
+the village is embosomed forms no small addition to its medicinal
+attractions. The number of invalids who resort annually to this
+salubrious spring appears to be on the increase,--the best criterion of
+the value attached to it. In the superior accommodation which it now
+offers to every class of visitors, nothing has been neglected that even
+the most fastidious can desire. Those domestic comforts, in particular,
+which are often of more real importance to valetudinarians than the
+skill of the physician, have been provided with a scrupulous exactness,
+which makes the stranger at Matlock feel completely at home.
+
+Matlock, however, though so friendly to the invalid, is neither gloomy
+nor isolated; but to those who delight to mix in the gayer scenes of
+artificial life, it possesses every attraction which refined society and
+social intercourse can bestow. He who seeks health, and he who seeks
+relaxation and pleasure, may enjoy every facility which science or
+fashion can offer; and nowhere are the amusements better conducted, or
+the rules of society more strictly observed, than at Matlock.
+
+The environs embrace some of the most striking and romantic scenery, as
+well as historical sites, in England; and so close at hand that many of
+the finest features enter into the same picture. Washed by the crystal
+Derwent and finely wooded,--with rocks, and fountains, and precipices,
+scattered at random through the charming landscape,--the visitor is
+tempted to pass much of his time in the open air, which accelerates the
+cure the water has begun. Romantic foot-paths, meandering along the
+rocky acclivities, and opening at short intervals upon enchanting points
+of view, allure the indolent to that salutary exercise which seldom
+fails to reward the _pieton_ with increased strength and exhilaration of
+spirits. The roads in the vicinity are kept in the best possible order,
+and, owing to the nature of the soil, rain is so speedily carried off,
+or absorbed, that the invalid may indulge in out-door exercise without
+apprehension.
+
+That portion of Matlock in which the invalid is most interested consists
+of the Old Bath, the New Bath, the Hotel, and several commodious
+lodging-houses, situated on the south-east side of the Derwent. These,
+with the various additions and improvements recently effected, offer to
+his choice all that can be desired in point of comfort and convenience.
+The buildings are of stone, elegantly constructed externally, and
+presenting internally an arrangement admirably adapted to the purposes
+of their erection. The servants of the establishments are well
+conducted, and attentive to their several duties; and the vigilance with
+which every department is regulated is a subject of commendation with
+every visitor.
+
+The water of Matlock is remarkable for its sparkling purity; it springs
+from limestone rock in a copious stream; and, having a temperature of
+sixty-eight degrees of Fahrenheit, is to be considered as a thermal
+water. It has been found to contain a small portion of neutral
+salt--probably muriate of soda--and an earthy salt, chiefly calcareous.
+Of the latter, when the water is exposed to the air, a deposition is
+quickly effected, and incrustations formed upon every substance immersed
+in it--some curious specimens of which are seen at what are called the
+Petrifying Wells.
+
+In a medical point of view, the water of Matlock may be employed in all
+those cases in which a pure diluent drink is advisable; but it is
+chiefly used as a tepid bath--or at least as one which exceeds the
+extreme limits of a cold bath. On this account, it produces only a
+slight shock on immersion, and is, therefore, peculiarly fitted for
+those delicate and languid habits that cannot exert sufficient reaction
+to overcome the effects of the common cold-bath, and on which the
+benefit it produces chiefly depends. It forms a good intermediate bath
+between that of Bath or Buxton and the sea, and may be recommended as a
+preparative for the latter. The abundant supply of water always at the
+same temperature is a circumstance in favour of natural baths; while the
+purity of the air and exquisite beauty of the situation must always
+render Matlock a favourite resort for the invalid and man of taste. To
+the geologist it presents a wide and interesting field of observation.
+Few districts in England comprise within the same limits so great a
+proportion of poetical and historical scenes.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: CONWAY CASTLE.]
+
+
+
+
+CONWAY CASTLE,
+
+NORTH WALES.
+
+
+    "Tantot c'est un vieux fort, qui, du haut des collines,
+    Tyran de la contrie, effrei de ses vassaux,
+    Portait jusqu'au ciel l'orgueil de ses crenaux;
+    Qui, dans ces temps affreux de discorde et d'alarmes,
+    Vit les grands coups de lance et les noble faits d'armes
+    De nos preux chevaliers......
+    Aujourd'hui la moisson flotte sur ses debris."
+
+Conway, or more properly Aberconway--so called from its position on the
+river of that name--makes no inconsiderable figure in the page of
+ancient history. It appears, on the testimony of Suetonius, the Roman
+governor in Britain, that the chief motive entertained by his countrymen
+in their occupation of this coast was a pearl fishery at the mouth of
+the river Conway; a specimen of which, presented by Sir R. Wynne to the
+Queen of Charles the Second, is said to have found a place among the
+jewels that now adorn the British diadem.
+
+The town of Conway is large, though not populous, and in situation and
+appearance highly picturesque. It is surrounded by lofty embattled
+walls, a mile and a half in circumference, well preserved, defended by
+twenty-four round-towers and four gates, and presenting at all points a
+striking picture of the ancient style of fortification. From the side
+towards the river ran two curtain-walls, terminating in watch-towers,
+but of which only one remains.
+
+The castle, a truly grand and imposing structure, was built in 1284; an
+epoch which gave origin to so many of those native fortresses, which
+will long continue to be the subject of interest and admiration to every
+traveller in this romantic country.
+
+Conway had, unlike Carnarvon and other fortresses situated on a level,
+no imposing portal to usher into the interior. Its two entrances were
+small, both practised for security, between an advanced work flanked by
+two small towers, one ascending by winding stairs from the river, the
+other, from the interior of the town, crossed the defensive moat by
+means of a drawbridge, and passed through a portal and outwork of small
+turrets into the great court of the castle. This stands on a rock, its
+courts flanked by eight enormous battlemented round-towers of unequalled
+beauty of proportion, those next the river having in addition small
+turrets. Of these towers, all are perfect as to their exterior save one,
+called Twr Dwu, or the broken tower, of which the lower portion, with
+the rock that supported it, has fallen away, exposing to view the
+immense solidity of its fractured walls. The interior of each tower was
+occupied by several stages of spacious apartments, the flooring and roof
+of which are entirely gone, with the fire-places, and lancet windows,
+the interior yawning in vacant desolation, blackened, weather-stained,
+and overgrown with rampant weeds and briers. There were stairs to ascend
+to the upper apartments from the courts below, and a way round the
+battlements which may still be followed out. The interior of the castle
+consists of two courts, comprising the different apartments. As we enter
+the grassy area, surrounded by ivied walls, and picturesquely surmounted
+by the battlemented turrets, the great hall appears on the right; three
+spacious windows of pointed architecture, and formerly highly enriched
+with mullions and tracery, lighted it on the side next the court, and
+the side wall, furnished with six lancet windows, with recessed and
+raised seats, looking out upon the creek, which, running up from the
+Conway, defended the walls on the south. Two carved fire-places of ample
+dimensions warmed the immense and royal apartment, supported by several
+gothic arches, some of which, clothed with ivy, still span the vacant
+space above, while beneath, among nettles and brambles, yawn the offices
+below. At the extremity of the hall is a noble arched window. The walls
+are now mantled thick with ivy, and the nettle and bramble overgrow what
+remains of the floor of this royal apartment, where Edward, whose statue
+in Westminster Abbey is of unequalled beauty, and Queen Eleanor, with
+masque and antique pageantry, entertained the throng of knights and
+barons bold, who had assisted in the subjugation of the Welsh, who
+besieged, however, the potent monarch in his own castle, and would have
+starved him into a surrender, but for the timely arrival of a fleet
+bearing soldiers and provisions. Since that period, its history is
+little remarkable. It was held in the civil war, for Charles I., by
+Archbishop Williams, who, being superseded by Prince Rupert, assisted
+the Parliamentarians in effecting the reduction of the place.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: CONWAY QUAY.]
+
+
+
+
+CONWAY QUAY.
+
+
+The district of Conway is mostly agricultural, and possesses no distinct
+manufactures by which the prosperity of the town and its population can
+be greatly promoted. A few small trading-vessels belong to the port; and
+here also ships of burden are occasionally repaired. The great
+improvement to the harbour is the erection of the quay; and the channel
+of the river having been deepened, and every impediment to the
+navigation removed, it may be anticipated that a speedy increase of
+trading intercourse will succeed its former languor and inactivity. The
+exports consist chiefly of timber, slate, and lead; and the imports, of
+coal from Flint and Liverpool, and of tea, sugar, cotton, with various
+other articles of domestic consumption.
+
+The chain-bridge, which constitutes so beautiful a feature in the
+picture of Conway, was erected by Mr. Telford, of whose genius Wales
+possesses several of the noblest monuments. That immediately under
+notice--constructed on the same principles as the bridge over the Menai,
+but much smaller in its proportions--is three hundred and twenty feet
+between the supporting towers, and eighteen feet above high-water mark.
+Nothing can be more elegant and beautiful, as it appears lightly
+spanning the river, and suffering the eye to penetrate its net-like
+fabric, so as scarcely to offer an obstruction to the landscape which
+shines through it. The scenery at this point is exceedingly interesting,
+and presents the works of nature, and art, and human genius, in striking
+combination.
+
+The town of Conway, before the formation of the railroad, was one of the
+most old-world places imaginable, unique for its faded and forlorn
+appearance, small as is the area enclosed, a considerable portion being
+occupied by open spaces and gardens. Everywhere entered by gothic
+portals, and as its interior was traced, with the defensive wall
+everywhere in sight, it transported the beholder back to the middle
+ages, more than any other walled city in England. There is a singular
+and picturesque variety of ancient houses; some at the head of the
+street leading to the castle, curiously carved, appear almost as old as
+the castle itself; others with their gable roofs, and black rafters, are
+of later date, and the Plas Mawr, or great mansion, in the principal
+street, prominently challenges the traveller's attention with its air of
+faded magnificence and singular construction. It is of Elizabethan
+architecture, and the arms of England, with initial letters E. R. and R.
+D., supposed to be Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, as well as those
+of R. W., Robert Wynne of Gwydir, sheriff of Carnarvon in 1591, and
+founder of the house, occur frequently, and the place is lavishly
+adorned with various decorative devices of the age--swans, owls,
+ostriches, mermaids, ragged staves, &c. The church contains little to
+interest beyond its front, and an inscription to a certain Nicholas
+Hooker, of Conway, gentleman, of a very anti-Malthusian import, the said
+Nicholas, though the father of twenty-seven children, being but a
+degenerate copy of his father, who could boast--_O si sic omnia!_--of no
+less than forty-one.
+
+Numerous and delightful are the rambles about this most picturesque
+place, which is backed by bold heathy hills and green sequestered
+valleys. One of the prettiest is to Gyffin, about a mile distant, which
+may be reached by following up the shores of the creek, south of the
+castle, and the small stream coming down into it. The little church is
+very ancient, and contains some curious paintings worthy of inspection;
+it is half buried, and so unpretending is the building in aspect, that
+it may be passed almost without noticing its sacred character. There is
+an excellent view of the town and castle from the upper road on the
+return; the long line of walls may be traced from the highest point, as
+they sweep round and join the castle, the whole space thus enclosed
+resembling in its outline the Welsh harp, as often suggested. The river
+and hills appear finely beyond. The artist especially should not omit to
+view Conway from this, perhaps its finest point of view.
+
+So unique is, or rather was, Conway Castle in picturesque effect, that
+it is difficult to mention any particular point from which it appears to
+greater advantage than another. From the quay, or the river, from every
+eminence around, seen in front or flank, near or distant, either by
+itself, or where the walls of the town prominently enter into the
+composition, it is, or rather was, alike unequalled. The tourist who is
+not pressed for time, and delights to hover around so magnificent a
+memorial of past ages, will study it at every point. On taking a
+solitary walk round the walls, he may fancy himself tracing the
+abandoned battlements of some old gothic town of the Orient, Rhodes, or
+Antioch, or the Saracenic defences of Jerusalem; a dream which may
+hardly be long indulged at present; for now, as Hood says,
+
+    "That iron age, which some have thought
+    Of mettle rather overwrought,
+    Is now all over_cast_,"
+
+and its crumbling memorials are sharing the same fate. Furness Abbey is
+turned into a railway station, and the passing train thunders through
+the very centre of old, castellated Conway, reminding us, while it
+indeed scares away all romantic daydreams, of the happy change from
+feudal oppression and border warfare, to the fusion of jarring
+interests, and the progress of enlightened civilization.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: THE MENAI BRIDGE, BANGOR.
+
+(North Wales.)]
+
+
+
+
+THE MENAI BRIDGE.
+
+
+The Menai Bridge, one of the many triumphs of modern engineering, arose
+from the following circumstances. During the summer of 1818, Mr.
+Telford, the engineer, was engaged on a survey of the extensive line of
+road from the metropolis to Holyhead--that point of the Welsh coast
+nearest to Ireland, and situated in the Island of Anglesea. Between this
+island and the Caernarvon coast flows that arm of the sea familiar to
+every reader as the Menai Straits, through which the tide rushes with
+great velocity, owing to local peculiarities well known to all who have
+navigated that portion of the Channel. There were at this time five or
+six ferries across the strait; but these, owing to the circumstances
+mentioned, were generally difficult, and seldom without danger; so that
+the intercourse between the opposite shores being much impeded, was a
+source of daily inconvenience to the inhabitants. This was more
+particularly felt from the fact that one of the staple productions of
+Anglesea was its cattle, which, when sold for the inland counties or the
+London market, had to be driven into the water, and compelled to cross
+the strait by swimming, which was attended with risk of property as well
+as inconvenience. These circumstances were brought before the eyes of
+Telford, and his ever-active and ingenious mind set instantly to work,
+in order to remedy the evil by providing new facilities of intercourse.
+The result of his reflections and mature calculations on this engrossing
+topic was the possibility of throwing a bridge across the Menai.
+
+The grand obstacle was a deep rapid tide-stream with high banks. To have
+erected a bridge of the usual materials would have obstructed the
+navigation; and any attempt to erect piers in the shifting bed of the
+sea must have inevitably proved a failure. Telford therefore recommended
+the erection of a suspension-bridge; and the plan, after due
+consideration, being approved by government, the work was commenced in
+1820, carried on with great spirit, and in 1826 brought to a most
+successful termination. It is partly of stone, partly of iron, and
+consists of seven stone arches. These arches connect the land with the
+two main piers, which rise on an elevation of fifty-three feet above the
+level of the road, over the top of which the chains are suspended, each
+of which measures from its fastenings in the rock, one thousand seven
+hundred and fourteen feet. The topmasts of the first three-masted
+vessel which passed under the bridge were nearly as high as those of a
+frigate, but they cleared twelve feet and a half below the level of the
+roadway. The suspending power of the chains is calculated at two
+thousand and sixteen tons; and the total weight of each chain is one
+hundred and twenty-one tons.
+
+Since the day it was first opened, the Menai Bridge has been the wonder
+of every traveller, an object of pilgrimage for scientific men of all
+countries, and a source of daily advantage to the United Kingdom, which
+no other work would have supplied. "The visiting of the Menai Bridge,"
+says Mr. Smith, in his _Guide to Snowdonia_, "forms a new era in the
+lives of those who have not had that pleasure, and is a renewed luxury
+to those who have. There is something to be admired at every step: the
+effect of a passing carriage; the vibration caused by the mere
+application of the hand to the suspending-rods; the depth of a hundred
+feet to the level of the water; the fine view of the Straits in both
+directions; the lofty pillar erected in honour of Lord Anglesey; the
+diminutive appearance of persons on the shore; the excellence and
+strength of the workmanship, the beauty of the arches over the road
+through the suspension-piers, and the echo in them, all conspire to
+fascinate and detain the spectator. There is so much elegance, beauty,
+and magnificence, in this grand work of art, that it harmonizes and
+accords perfectly with the natural scenery around; and although in
+itself an object of admiration, still, in connexion with the features of
+the landscape, it heightens the effect of the general view."
+
+"Seen, as I approached it," says Mr. Roscoe, "in the clear light of an
+autumnal sunset, which threw a splendour over the wide range of hills
+beyond, and the sweep of richly variegated groves and plantations which
+covered their base; the bright river, the rocky picturesque foreground;
+villas, spires, and towers here and there enlivening the prospect--the
+Menai Bridge appeared more like the work of some great magician than the
+mere result of man's skill and industry." Such were the encomiums
+lavished upon the first bridge which crossed the Menai; but men have
+since learned to view this structure with diminished admiration.
+Telford's great work no longer stands alone. The tubular bridge of his
+great successor, Stephenson, has taken its place beside the older and
+lighter work, and the very fact of its existence tends to diminish the
+wonder with which the first was looked upon.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: PORT PENRYN AND BANGOR.]
+
+
+
+
+PORT PENRHYN AND BANGOR.
+
+
+Bangor, although a city and the oldest see in the principality, is
+inconsiderable in size and population; but the natural beauty of its
+situation, the advantages which it commands from its inland as well as
+maritime connexion, and its excellent society, render the town and
+environs a most desirable place of residence, as well as a favourite
+resort for those families and individuals who employ the summer months
+in the pursuit of health, recreation, or improvement. The numerous
+walks, rides, and drives in the vicinity, all enhanced by their
+immediate and varied prospects of the sea, offer those facilities to
+health and enjoyment which cannot be too highly appreciated either by
+the tourist or resident. The city consists principally of one irregular
+street, fully a mile in length, with a fine vista towards the Menai--a
+name which the genius of Telford has rendered familiar to all the
+admirers of science and art. The houses are well-built, of a moderate
+size, neat in their appearance, and present to the stranger's eye a
+pleasing air of domestic comfort and progressive improvement. In the
+latter respect, no year passes away without contributing something to
+the public ornament or utility--objects which are zealously patronised
+by the influential inhabitants, and encouraged by those numerous and
+spirited visitors, estimated at fifty thousand annually, whom business
+or relaxation attract to the place. But to convey the best proof of the
+advances which Bangor has realised in the scale of provincial
+importance, and in all that has immediate reference to social and local
+improvements, we need only state that at the commencement of the present
+century the number of houses was only ninety-three, but that now it
+amounts to nine hundred or upwards. During three-quarters of the year a
+regular communication between Bangor and Liverpool is kept up by the
+steamboats that ply along this romantic and much-frequented coast, and
+which contribute greatly to the interests of the place. The environs are
+enlivened by many picturesque villas, and every accommodation is
+provided in the hotels and private lodging-houses for the reception of
+visitors.
+
+The great object of general interest at Bangor is its cathedral,--a very
+ancient and venerable structure,--the foundation of which was among the
+earliest of those primitive temples which marked the triumphant progress
+of Christianity on the British soil. It is understood to have been
+founded by St. Daniel, at the commencement of the sixth century, and
+bears the sainted name of the founder. The choir was built by Bishop
+Deane, in or about 1496, and is used only for the cathedral service. The
+nave, built by Bishop Skivington in 1532, is fitted up as a parish
+church; and in one of the transepts the service is read in the Welsh
+tongue.
+
+The free school,--founded in 1557 by Dr. Glynn, brother of the bishop of
+that name,--five daily schools within the parish, the central National
+school, four Sunday-schools, and almshouses, give a most favourable
+impression of the religious and civil advantages enjoyed by the
+inhabitants of Bangor, who evince a spirit and zeal worthy of those
+blessings which, in comparison with other and far more populous towns,
+place them in so enviable a position.
+
+The principal export is the product of the slate-quarries, which is
+conveyed on a railway from Llandegai, six miles distant, to port
+Penrhyn, at the egress of the river Cegid into the Menai. This port is
+now capable of receiving vessels of large burden. It is nine hundred
+feet in length, and in all respects well adapted for the trading-craft
+which here take in their cargoes. The slates are of all dimensions, from
+large tombstone slabs down to the smallest size for roofing. For
+cyphering-slates, inkstands, and other fancy articles, there is a
+manufactory near the port. At a short distance is a handsome building
+containing hot and cold sea-water baths, with rooms for dressing and
+refreshment. The construction of this establishment, with its terrace
+and other appurtenances, is said to have cost the late Lord Penrhyn
+thirty thousand pounds. In the straits of Menai there is a good fishery,
+near Garth Ferry. There is a weekly market every Friday; and fairs are
+held in April, June, September, and October. No stranger should neglect
+to visit Penrhyn Castle, one of the finest baronial mansions in
+Europe.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: BEAUMARIS.]
+
+
+
+
+BEAUMARIS,
+
+ANGLESEA.
+
+
+     "I have stood gazing on Snowdon and Plinlimmon, the vale of Clwyd,
+     the straits of Menai--lake, river, sea, and land--till they seemed
+     of themselves to say, Stranger, well mayst thou gaze! we merit
+     thine admiration--we are of GOD!"
+
+Beaumaris is finely situated on the picturesque banks of the Menai,
+where it opens into the bay, and presents many attractions derived from
+its historical monuments, its natural advantages, and modern
+improvements. As the principal town in the island and county of
+Anglesea, it has long been a place of fashionable resort, and being at
+the same time the borough and market-town, it is a scene of considerable
+activity, cheerfulness, and animation. It is in general well built;
+particularly one street, the houses of which are large and commodious,
+and of superior design and execution. Of the original wall by which it
+was once enclosed, considerable portions still remain--sufficient to
+demonstrate, by their massive strength and durability, the iron
+features, and the no less iron policy of feudal times. The
+castle--erected by Edward the First, and now an imposing ruin close to
+the town--covers a large space of ground, but stands too low to produce
+that effect upon the spectator which it would have done had it, like so
+many of its cotemporaries, occupied an isolated and commanding position.
+It is surrounded by a deep fosse, with an entrance between two embattled
+walls on the east, with round and square towers. The gate opens into a
+spacious court, measuring fifty-seven yards by sixty, with four square
+towers, and an advanced-work on the east, called the Gunner's Walk.
+Within these was the keep--the body of the castle--nearly square, having
+a round tower at each angle, and another in the centre of each facade.
+The area forms an irregular octagon, of the dimensions above named. In
+the middle of the north side is the hall, twenty yards long by twelve
+broad, with two round towers, and several others about the inner and
+outer walls, built of a bluish stone intermixed with square stones,
+which produce a rather novel and pleasing effect.
+
+There appears to have been originally a communication round the whole
+buildings of the inner court by means of a gallery two yards broad, and
+which still remains nearly entire. In various recesses in different
+parts of the sides of this gallery are square apertures, which appear
+to have had trap-doors or openings into a dungeon beneath. The two
+eastern towers served also as dungeons, with a dark and narrow descent
+to each--sufficiently characteristic of the dark and despotic purposes
+to which they were applied. On the east side of this building are the
+remains of a very small chapel, arched and ribbed with painting and
+intersecting arches; also some Gothic pilasters and narrow lancet-headed
+windows, and various compartments, with closets constructed--after the
+manner of those times--in the centre of the massive walls.
+
+When Edward the First built the town, and erected it into a corporation,
+he endowed it at the same time with various lands and privileges of
+considerable value, in order to secure more firmly his possessions in
+the island, and changed its name from Bonover to Beaumaris, in allusion,
+it is supposed, to its low but pleasant situation. He caused also a
+canal to be cut, in order that vessels might be brought up close under
+the battlements to discharge their cargoes, as the iron mooring-rings
+affixed to the walls clearly indicate.
+
+The church, which forms a prominent feature in the picture of Beaumaris,
+is a spacious and very elegant structure, having a lofty square tower,
+visible at a great distance, and presenting in all its proportions and
+compartments a fine specimen of ecclesiastical architecture. The other
+public buildings consist of the county-hall, the town-hall, the
+free-school, and the custom-house; each possessing, in an eminent
+degree, every ornament and accommodation befitting buildings of their
+class and destination. The view from the green commands a striking
+prospect of the most interesting portion of the Menai Strait, bounded in
+the distance by the Caernarvon mountains, which gradually overtop each
+other till they unite in the majestic Snowdon, whose summit--now belted
+with clouds, and now glittering in the sunshine--asserts his claim to
+undivided empire as "Sovran" of the British Alps.
+
+With respect to trade, Beaumaris can hardly be said to enjoy any
+exclusive advantages: the vessels belonging to the port are generally
+hired by neighbouring merchants and others, who have trading connexions
+with Liverpool and other ports on the English and Irish sides of the
+Channel. The bay, though not spacious, is safe and commodious, and
+affords shelter and good anchorage for vessels that take refuge here in
+tempestuous weather. The town has a weekly market on Wednesdays, and
+three annual cattle fairs in February, September, and December. During
+the season it is much resorted to as bathing-quarters, and has
+everything to recommend it as a summer residence. A steam-boat plies
+regularly between this and Liverpool, thereby affording every facility
+to visitors, and presenting in the passage a rich succession of
+beautiful, picturesque, and sublime scenery, which successively invites
+and fascinates the eye of the spectator.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: HOLYHEAD.]
+
+
+
+
+HOLYHEAD.
+
+
+Holyhead is familiar to every reader as the favourite point of
+rendezvous for all who are on their way to the Irish capital. By the
+admirable arrangements of the Post-office, and the sure and
+swift-sailing packets that are here in regular attendance, a passage
+across the Channel is now a matter of as much certainty, as to time, as
+that of the mail from London. The perfect order and the surprising
+expedition with which passengers and despatches may thus be forwarded to
+and from Dublin are the general theme of admiration amongst foreigners,
+and a means of vast accommodation to our own commercial houses. During a
+long series of years the improvement of Holyhead has engaged the special
+attention of Government; every suggestion, entitled to the approbation
+of skilful and experienced engineers, has been liberally carried into
+effect: so that in the present day it seems hardly possible that any
+packet-station can offer greater facilities for all the purposes of
+Government, or for the interests of social and commercial intercourse,
+than Holyhead. The steam-vessels which carry the daily mails are of the
+best possible construction, commanded by experienced naval officers, and
+affording excellent accommodation for the passengers who are constantly
+passing to and fro between the British and Irish shores.
+
+The harbour of Holyhead is shaped by the natural cliffs which overhang
+the sea, on the verge of which stand the ancient sanctuary of the place
+and its cemetery. The foundation of this church--originally a small
+monastery--dates from the close of the fourth century: it was long
+afterwards remodelled into a college of presbyters by one of the Lords
+of Anglesey; and, after undergoing many alterations suitable to the
+varying taste of the ages through which it has passed, it assumed its
+present appearance--that of an embattled edifice built in the shape of a
+cross.
+
+Under the Head--the mountain from which the harbour takes its name, and
+which overshadows the town--are two rocky eminences nearly opposite the
+church, both of which are crowned with ruins which carry the mind far
+back among the bright days of Cambrian independence. In the rock is a
+wide and lofty cavern, supported by natural columns, on which tradition
+has conferred the title of the Parliament-house; and it is not to be
+denied that patriotic legislators have been often worse accommodated.
+This curiosity requires to be visited in a boat. On the highest point
+stands an uncemented circular stone wall, about ten feet in
+circumference, which is conjectured to have served as a _pharos_ in
+ancient times; for this coast has a perilous celebrity attached to it,
+and no vessel could safely approach the haven by night without a warning
+signal of this kind.
+
+The pier of Holyhead is admirably constructed. It is built on a small
+island north of the harbour, called Inys-halen, and combines in an
+eminent degree the requisites of security and accommodation in a work of
+such importance to the interests of trade. The foundation was laid in
+1809, under fortunate auspices; and the grand object, which had been so
+long and anxiously cherished, was happily accomplished, under the able
+direction of Mr. Rennie, within a comparatively short period. It has a
+depth of four fathoms water, so that vessels of heavy burden can ride at
+anchor in perfect safety. At the extremity is a lighthouse, finely
+proportioned, substantially built, and highly ornamental as well as
+useful to the pier and harbour.
+
+The pier extends a thousand feet in length; and close adjoining to it
+are the Custom-house, with several respectable family houses, among
+which are those for the harbour-master and resident engineers. The
+lighthouse contains twenty lamps and reflectors, at an elevation of more
+than fifty feet above the sea, and exhibiting in every direction a
+steady blaze of light. At the present time, works for improving and
+enlarging the harbour are proceeding on a very extensive scale, and bid
+fair, upon completion, to render Holyhead one of the first harbours of
+the United Kingdom.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: BRIDGE TO THE SOUTH STACK LIGHTHOUSE.
+
+(near Holyhead.)]
+
+
+
+
+THE SOUTHSTACK LIGHTHOUSE,
+
+HOLYHEAD.
+
+
+     "Approaching it from the water, its singular aspect, its wild site
+     and deserted air--the lighthouse towering seventy feet in
+     height--the neat, comfortable dwellings close under its guardian
+     wing--the sounds of life and industry mingled with the lashing of
+     the sea--and the cry of innumerable birds, ever circling above and
+     around--were altogether of so unwonted a character, that, had I
+     been transported to the antipodes, I could not have felt more
+     unfeigned surprise."--ROSCOE.
+
+Few objects on the British coast excite more individual interest than
+the subject of this illustration. The singularity of its position, the
+difficulties which attended its erection, the grand objects of humanity
+to which it has been made subservient, are all calculated to interest
+the heart, and afford scope for the imagination.
+
+The Southstack islet is about thirty yards from the rock known as the
+Head; and on this the lighthouse was erected in 1809, under the
+direction of Captain Evans, of the Royal Navy. Its form is that of a
+round tower, the foundation of which is a hundred and forty feet, and
+the light two hundred feet above the sea--so that it embraces within its
+sphere the whole bay of Caernarvon. The approach by water to this
+remarkable sanctuary of human life is well calculated to make a lasting
+impression upon every visitor, and should never be omitted where a
+favourable opportunity is presented by the state of the weather. It is
+here that the extremes of natural desolation and human industry are
+brought into juxtaposition; where human enterprise has established an
+asylum amidst the ruins of nature, the war of waves, the wreck of
+tempests, to shed the "light of hope" over the heart of many a
+despairing mariner.
+
+Happily for the cause of humanity, vast efforts have been made, and are
+continually making, to diminish where they cannot entirely remove the
+dangers which have so long invested our native coast; and it is
+impossible to calculate the number of lives and the amount of
+merchandise which have thus been saved from imminent destruction. Much,
+however, still remains to be effected--much that is really
+practicable--and it is earnestly to be desired that the attention of
+Government should be constantly directed to those points on which the
+science of the engineer can be most beneficially employed. Holyhead in
+particular is still susceptible of vast improvements; and with the
+addition of a capacious outer harbour, sufficient to admit
+merchant-vessels and others of larger size than those now frequenting
+the port, it would speedily realize all that could be wished for by
+those most interested in the welfare of the place, and in the prosperity
+of trade. This is also a subject well deserving of attention on the part
+of the Admiralty; for, with proper accommodation, her Majesty's ships,
+in the event of a war, might be advantageously stationed at this port,
+so as to secure free intercourse, and serve as a protection to the
+coast, which is now in a defenceless condition and open to any attempt
+at hostile aggression. We are happy that this question has received the
+consideration of her Majesty's Government; and feel assured that the
+steps which are now making towards the accomplishment of so great a
+desideratum will ensure the grateful approbation of the public, and the
+increased prosperity of Holyhead.
+
+The Southstack, as already mentioned, is cut off from the promontory by
+a deep chasm thirty yards in width, through which the sea roars and
+boils with great force and impetuosity. To cross this formidable ravine
+an oriental rope-bridge was formerly employed, that is--a sliding basket
+was attached to the cable, which was secured at either side of the
+abyss; the passenger entered the basket, and by the ingenious working of
+lateral pulleys it was sent off or hauled in, according to the arrival
+or departure of visitors. This hempen apparatus was replaced in 1827 by
+a handsome suspension-bridge, on the same principles as that over the
+Menai. It was suggested by the intelligent veteran already mentioned,
+Captain Evans, and has answered every purpose contemplated in its
+erection. The roadway is five feet in width, and its height above
+high-water mark is about seventy feet. The airy span of this bridge is
+highly graceful and picturesque, and adds greatly to the interest of the
+picture. On the rock, close under the walls of the lighthouse, are
+several cottages for the use of the Superintendent and those under his
+command. The different points of view which it comprises are all deeply
+interesting to a stranger, particularly from the lighthouse, where the
+sphere of vision is greatly enlarged.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: THE EAGLE TOWER, CARNARVON CASTLE.]
+
+
+
+
+EAGLE TOWER,
+
+CAERNARVON CASTLE.
+
+
+Caernarvon Castle, of which the Engraving annexed presents so faithful
+and striking a resemblance, is a subject of no ordinary interest: it
+generally engrosses the attention of all strangers in these parts, and
+is, in every sense, one of the noblest specimens of castellated
+architecture in existence. Like so many others of similar design and
+execution, this fortress owes its origin to the policy of Edward the
+First, who built it, according to contemporary history, by appropriating
+the revenues of the See of York, then vacant, to the purposes of warlike
+enterprise and ambition. The town is understood to have arisen under the
+same auspices. The Castle defends it on the south by means of a narrow,
+deep moat in front. In its west wall are three circular towers, with two
+others on either side, and a narrow gate or entrance, over which is
+placed a bare-headed figure with flowing locks,--the statue of the
+founder,--holding in his left hand a sword, which he draws with his
+right hand,--or rather, perhaps, is returning to its scabbard, in
+allusion to the subjugation of the Welsh,--and a defaced shield under
+his feet. This gate leads to a narrow, oblong court. At the west end is
+a polygon, or many-sided tower, with three others of hexagonal form
+above, and eagles sculptured on the battlements, from which it received
+the name, preserved in the Engraving, of the "Eagle Tower." It is a
+noble structure, having ten sides, and a staircase of three hundred
+steps to the battlements. In this tower is the birth-chamber of Edward
+the Second,--the first Prince of Wales,[1]--whose nativity, on the 25th
+of April, 1284, was an humiliating epoch to the spirit of Cambrian
+freedom. The room measures only eleven feet by seven,--dimensions little
+in accordance with the importance attached to that event,--but still in
+some measure characteristic of the fortunes of the royal heir, who,
+after an eventful reign, was destined at last to perish by a horrible
+death in the dungeon-room of Berkeley Castle. Adjoining this chamber is
+a semicircular apartment, traditionally described as the King's Nursery.
+
+The Castle and the court which it encloses are very nearly a mile in
+circumference. From the outside, twelve towers are seen; out of which,
+as observed in those of Conway Castle, issue several smaller angular
+turrets, which, relieved against the horizon, produce a very picturesque
+effect. A gateway on the south side of the Castle is called the Queen's
+Gate, from the circumstance of Queen Eleanor having entered the fortress
+through this gate, by a temporary bridge erected for the occasion.
+
+Our limits do not permit us to indulge in more minute description of
+this vast and imposing fortress, which, from the state of repair in
+which it is still kept, may brave the changes of season and the fury of
+the elements for many generations to come. Externally it is still
+entire, and challenges the admiration of all who have the least taste
+for what is sublime and striking in architecture. The castle-walls are
+still washed by the sea on the north and west, as they formerly were on
+the south. Founded upon a rock, and occupying so strong a position, it
+might well have been considered impregnable in the absence of gunpowder.
+Immense as the structure appears, it is said to have been built within
+the short space of twelve months; a fact which would appear incredible,
+did we not reflect that in those days of bitter vassalage the _will_ of
+the sovereign was a law that could not be transgressed without certain
+destruction to the offenders. If a work was considered impracticable, or
+of doubtful accomplishment, all hesitation was removed--all difficulties
+cancelled--by these expressive words, _Le Roi l'a voulu!_ And under the
+more than magical influence of this laconic phrase, the "towery
+fortress" of Caernarvon may have sprung into sudden existence.
+
+[1] The origin of the motto ICH DIEN--I serve--is generally attributed
+to Edward the Black Prince who, in leading the vanguard of his army to
+the battle of Cressy, slew John of Luxemburg, King of Bohemia, and then
+deplumed his helmet of those ostrich feathers which, in memory of this
+victory, became his _cognisance_,--sometimes using one feather, at
+others three, as appears on his seals and tomb, with scrolls containing
+this motto, ICH DIEN. But the ancient arms of the princes of Wales,
+while they were independent sovereigns, were quarterly _gules_ and _or_,
+four lions _passant_, counterchanged. The Charter of Edward the First to
+his son is dated March 24th, 1305,--_i.e._ when the Prince had attained
+his majority.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: CARNARVON.]
+
+
+
+
+CAERNARVON CASTLE.
+
+
+                                   ----"Rifled towers
+    That, beetling o'er the rock, rear the grey crest
+    Embattled."
+
+The first royal charter granted in the Principality of Wales was that
+conferred on the town of Caernarvon by Edward the First. It is a place
+of great historical interest and importance, and, in connexion with its
+magnificent castle, presents one of the most imposing features on the
+British coast. The town is not large; but the recent improvements--public
+and private--which have been carried into effect have materially
+contributed to its internal convenience and outward embellishment. Of
+these the Baths demand especial notice, as one of the principal
+recommendations to strangers and invalids who resort to this part of the
+Cambrian shore either for health or relaxation. The building in itself
+is a good specimen of classical taste--combining elegance of design with
+excellent workmanship, and presenting, in the distribution of its
+apartments, every convenience for the reception of visiters and
+invalids, a choice of hot and cold sea-water baths, with the appendage
+of comfortable dressing-rooms. For those who have the pleasure in the
+"cold plunge," as the means of bracing the relaxed system by the
+exercise of swimming, there is excellent accommodation in a capacious
+bath, appropriated to that salutary purpose, which is refreshed by a
+constant supply of water drawn by a steam-engine from the sea through
+iron pipes, and received into large reservoirs of the same metal. This
+edifice, which combines in an eminent degree the useful and ornamental,
+was built at the expense of the Marquess of Anglesey, and is said to
+have cost upwards of ten thousand pounds.
+
+Within the walls this ancient town is intersected by ten streets,
+crossing each other at right-angles, which, at various points, fix the
+stranger's attention by those features and recollections of "other
+times" with which they are so closely associated. Of these, the main or
+high street runs from the land to the Water-gate, and is a very fair
+specimen of that architecture which characterises almost all town
+buildings of the feudal period. Beyond the walls the town assumes a very
+different character; elegance, taste, and comfort, and those features
+which mark the progress of art and refinement, are brought into
+immediate view; while numerous cottages, and several villas of handsome
+design and finely situated, throw an air of luxury and domestic comfort
+over the rural suburbs, the natural character of which is highly
+favourable to buildings of this description. The town is well paved,
+lighted with gas, and abundantly supplied with water.
+
+The Port of Caernarvon has accommodation for shipping not exceeding four
+hundred tons burden, and is frequented by a great number of vessels in
+the coasting-trade, as well as by others in connexion with London,
+Liverpool, Glasgow, Dublin, Cork, Bristol, and various port-towns in the
+United Kingdom. The principal exports consist of slate and copper-ore,
+the inland transport of which has been greatly facilitated since the
+construction of the railway. The imports are chiefly colonial produce,
+Birmingham and Manchester goods, and various articles of
+home-consumption from the London markets. The quay and harbour of
+Caernarvon, which formerly presented serious obstacles to the shipping
+interest on account of the _bar_ at the entrance, have been so improved
+that the danger, if not entirely removed, is at least so far diminished
+as to excite little apprehension for the safety of the ordinary craft in
+connexion with this port. To defray the expense of these public works,
+Government has levied additional port-dues; and it is much to be wished
+that, in all other harbours of difficult or dangerous access, the same
+advantages could be obtained on similar conditions.
+
+The town is now, agreeably to the Municipal Act, divided into two wards,
+and governed by a mayor, six aldermen, and eighteen councillors. In
+addition to the picturesque civic retreats already alluded to, as giving
+so much animation to the native scenery, the neighbourhood is
+embellished with the baronial seats of the Marquess of Anglesey, Lord
+Boston, and Lord Newborough. The ruins of Segontium, several Roman
+stations, part of a military road, and a considerable number of
+primitive domestic edifices, are among the chief objects of antiquity
+which deserve the attention of visiters to this neighbourhood.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: HARLECH CASTLE.]
+
+
+
+
+HARLECH CASTLE,
+
+NORTH WALES.
+
+
+                  "The tower that long had stood
+    The crash of thunder and the warring winds.
+    Shook by the slow but sure destroyer--Time,
+    Now hangs in doubtful ruins o'er its base."
+
+Harlech Castle, according to the Welsh historians, derives its origin
+from Maelgwyn Gwynedd, prince of North Wales, who flourished at the
+commencement of the sixth century. The present castle appears to have
+been rebuilt by Edward I., on the foundations of the original fortress,
+portions of which are still observable in the masonry of the latter
+epoch, so well known as the "castle-building reign" in England. In the
+reign of Henry IV. the castle was seized by Owen Glendower, but was
+retaken four years later; and, after the battle of Northampton, in 1460,
+afforded temporary shelter to Margaret of Anjou.
+
+In 1468, the castle of Harlech was captured, after a short siege, by the
+Earl of Pembroke; of whom Sir John Wynne, in his history of the Gwydir
+family, quotes some Cambrian lines expressive of the ravages committed
+by him in the counties of Merioneth and Denbigh at that unhappy period.
+The last of the many tempestuous scenes with which this fortress has
+been visited occurred in 1647, when William Owen, with a garrison of
+only twenty men, surrendered it to Cromwell's forces under General
+Mytton; but this was not accomplished till every other castle in Wales
+had deserted the royal cause.
+
+This castle is a strong square building, with a round-tower at each
+angle, and one of the same form at each side of the gateway. Besides
+these there are four other turrets, smaller and higher, which rise above
+the towers at the angles, and are in a more dilapidated state. The
+entrance is under a pointed arch, which formerly contained six gates of
+massive strength and construction. Although the roofs, doors, and
+casements of this interesting stronghold have long disappeared, it still
+presents in the distance an air of even habitable preservation. There
+are the remains of stone staircases in every tower, and in the area one
+of these, leading to the top of the battlements, is still entire. In
+all the rooms fire-places, with pointed arches, are visible, as well as
+window recesses, which in the state apartments are three in a row, and
+of spacious dimensions; while those in the smaller rooms gradually
+contract outwards till they terminate in a "slit" or loophole, as in
+most other castles of this style and period.
+
+The view of Harlech Castle is among the finest in this picturesque and
+interesting country; the situation is commanding, and the effect of
+these venerable towers and battlements, as they first burst upon the
+traveller's eye, is strikingly bold and impressive. His fancy is hurried
+back to the days of other times: the shades of native harpers and native
+heroes flit before his eye; history and romance divide the empire of his
+mind; and for a time he rests with mute but intense interest on these
+castellated landmarks of Cambrian history.
+
+The rock upon which the fortress is built rises from the Gamlas,--a
+level marsh, resembling water in the distance, nearly a mile in breadth,
+and which it is probable was once covered by the sea. On the side
+overlooking this marsh, the rock is precipitous, and steep at either
+end. In front it is on a level with the town of Harlech, from which it
+is separated only by a deep trench or moat, and overlooked by a group of
+magnificent mountains in the rear, from which the view is sublime. The
+whole platform of the rock is occupied by the castle, except a narrow
+belt of about four or five feet in width, forming a beautiful green
+path, which winds round the outer walls, skirting the very brink of the
+precipice.
+
+The town of Harlech is an ancient free burgh, and originally one of the
+chief places in the county of Merioneth. It is now reduced to the
+condition of a secondary village, has a corporation governed by a mayor,
+is one of the polling-places for the county members, and is enlivened
+during the year by several periodical fairs and weekly markets.
+
+Various objects of antiquity have been discovered from time to time in
+the neighbourhood of Harlech. In 1692 an ancient gold _torque_ was dug
+up in a garden near the castle. It is in the form of a wreathed bar, or
+several rods twisted together, about four feet long, flexible, bent in
+the form of a hat-band, neither sharp nor twisted, but plain, evenly
+cut, an inch in circumference, and in weight about eight ounces. This
+interesting relic is an heir-loom in the Mostyn family. Several coins of
+the Roman empire have also been found in and near this town, which
+afford indisputable evidence of its great antiquity. The distance of
+Harlech from London is two hundred and twenty-nine miles.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: BARMOUTH.]
+
+
+
+
+BARMOUTH:
+
+OR, ABERMAW.
+
+
+    "Here, beneath the mountain's brow,
+    Hygeia hears the pilgrim's vow;
+    Here the breath of summer seas,
+    The balm of morn, the evening breeze,
+    The charms of a romantic land,
+    Refresh and gem the Cambrian strand,--
+    Where still the muse of Cymry lingers,
+    And strikes the harp with raptured fingers."
+
+Barmouth, the only port in Merionethshire, occupies a romantic situation
+at the mouth of the river Mawddach, where the tide at high-water forms a
+bay of about a mile across, but rather hazardous, owing to the shifting
+sandbanks by which the channel is interrupted. Overhung by lofty
+mountains, which leave no adequate space for the horizontal expansion of
+the village, the houses appear to hang almost perpendicularly from the
+steep side of the cliffs, so that the chimneys of the one appear to be
+the foundation of the other. They form eight successive tiers or
+terraces, to which there is no better approach than by steps hewn in the
+rock.
+
+This romantic village, which consists of only one irregular street, is
+much frequented as sea-bathing quarters, for which it has every
+accommodation, and, in respect to bold and picturesque scenery, has few
+rivals in the whole Principality. The sea-beach affords every facility
+for pedestrian exercise; the walks along the banks of the river are
+numerous, and command the most striking points of view; while regular
+assemblies, and some of the best Cambrian harps, promote social
+intercourse and hilarity among the visitors, and give a stir and
+animation to the whole neighbourhood.
+
+Barmouth, says Mr. Roscoe, is considered to the north-west part of the
+kingdom, much like Weymouth and other fashionable watering-places to the
+south, and is resorted to during the summer months, not only by numbers
+of families in the Principality, but by many others residing in the
+surrounding counties. The sands are very fine and hard, extending along
+the beach for several miles, and the bathing is at all times as
+excellent as can be desired. The restless tides of the Channel dashing
+against the surrounding coast produce that constant and salubrious
+motion, which is extended to the waters of the bay. There are two
+convenient inns, the "Commercial," and the "Cors y Gedol Arms," besides
+a number of respectable lodging-houses.
+
+The town has the benefit of weekly markets, with an excellent supply of
+fish and poultry, at a cheap rate, and is further enlivened by two
+annual fairs, in October and November. The native manufactures consist
+chiefly of flannel and hosiery, a great quantity of which is exported.
+The other _exports_ consist of corn, butter, cheese, oak-bark, timber,
+&c.; the _imports_, of coal, culm, and other articles for the use of the
+interior.
+
+The number of small coasting-vessels, and others belonging to this haven
+that trade with Ireland, is stated at a hundred or upwards; and
+commercial business, upon the whole, is considered to be in a
+flourishing state.
+
+The distance of Barmouth from London is two hundred and twenty-two
+miles, and it communicates with Caernarvon by a cross-mail. The resident
+population is considerably under two thousand, but is greatly augmented
+during the bathing season. The shipping at the pier communicates to the
+place a particular air of prosperity and cheerfulness, and gives
+employment to a very considerable portion of the inhabitants.
+
+"The beauties of the road from Llanilltyd to Barmouth," says Mr. Pratt,
+"are so manifold and extraordinary that they literally beggar
+description. New pastures of the most exuberant fertility, new woods
+rising in all the majesty of foliage, the road itself curving in
+numberless unexpected directions,--at one moment shut into a verdant
+recess, so contracted that there seems neither carriage nor bridle-way
+out of it, and at another the azure expanse of the main ocean filling
+the eye. On one side, rocks glittering in all the colours of that beauty
+which constitutes the sublime, and of a height which diminishes the wild
+herds that browse, or look down upon you from the summit, where the
+largest animal appears insignificantly minute. On the other hand,
+plains, villas, cottages, or copses, with whatever belongs to that
+milder grace which appertains to the beautiful."
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: SWANSEA BAY.]
+
+
+
+
+SWANSEA BAY.
+
+GLAMORGANSHIRE.
+
+
+    "In front, the Bay its crystal wave expands,
+    Whose rippling waters kiss the glittering sands
+    Far o'er its bosom, ships with spreading sails
+    Export the _ores_ from Cambria's sunny vales.
+    Above--yon feudal bulwarks crown the steep,
+    Whose rocky base repels the stormy deep;
+    Here health is found,--there Industry resides,--
+    And Freedom on her native shore abides."
+
+The reputation which Swansea has long enjoyed as a delightful
+watering-place has suffered no diminution in consequence of the numerous
+rivals with which this coast is so agreeably diversified. As bathing
+quarters, it enjoys peculiar advantages in its shore, which is admirably
+adapted for that purpose; while the adjacent scenery, and the various
+objects of interest or curiosity with which it abounds, serve as
+pleasing incentives to exercise and recreation,--the happy effects of
+which are soon observable in the health and appearance of invalids who
+make choice of Swansea as their summer residence. Every resource which
+visitors can desire, for promoting either health of body or agreeable
+occupation for the mind, is here amply provided. Warm, sea-water, and
+vapour, baths,--public rooms, billiard-tables, reading-rooms,
+circulating libraries,--with comfortable private lodgings and excellent
+hotels, are among the list of daily luxuries at their command.
+
+The Harbour of Swansea is capacious,--well constructed, defended by two
+strong stone piers, about eighteen hundred feet in length,--and affords
+accommodation to a great many trading-vessels. On the west pier, a
+light-house and watch-tower offer additional security to the shipping;
+and every facility is provided for lading and unlading. The tide flows a
+considerable way up the river, which is navigable to the extent of two
+miles for vessels of burden. The canal, running parallel with the river,
+extends to Brecknockshire, a distance of sixteen miles; and in its
+course passes through thirty-six locks, and over several aqueducts. Its
+head is nearly four hundred feet higher than its mouth, which readily
+accounts for the great number of locks. There is also a canal from the
+Swansea to the Neath canal, on which a packet-boat is established, and a
+_tram_-road from the former to Oystermouth. With Bristol and Ilfracombe
+there is a regular communication kept up by means of steam-vessels,
+which leave and arrive according to the state of the tide.
+
+The public buildings of Swansea--ancient and modern--are numerous in
+proportion to the population. The Town-hall, erected in 1829, is an
+elegant structure, approached by two flights of steps, and adorned with
+columns of the Doric order. The castle, situated nearly in the centre of
+the town, was originally a building of great extent, and of a strength
+well suited to the purposes of its erection. A massive tower, surmounted
+by a range of light arches which support a parapet, is the principal
+part now remaining of this once redoubtable fortress. It appears to have
+been founded at the remote epoch of 1113, by Henry Beaumont, Earl of
+Warwick,--a Norman leader who conquered Gowerland; but being soon after
+laid siege to by a Welsh chief,--Griffith ap Rhys ap Theodore,--a
+considerable portion of the outworks was destroyed. It is now in the
+possession of the Duke of Beaufort, "Earl" of Glamorgan, who is
+hereditarily entitled to the "prisage and butlerage" of all wines
+brought into the harbours of Swansea and Chepstow.
+
+The public rooms of Swansea stand on the north side of the promenade,
+called the Burrows, which consist of several acres tastefully laid out
+in parterres. Here also are an excellent House of Industry and an
+Infirmary, established in 1817 and situated on the beach. Besides the
+free Grammar-school, founded in the seventeenth century, by Hugh, Bishop
+of Waterford and Lismore, there are the Lancasterian and
+National-schools, which are incalculable blessings to the increasing
+population of Swansea.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: OYSTERMOUTH,
+
+(Swansea Bay.)]
+
+
+
+
+OYSTERMOUTH CASTLE.
+
+
+    "Here--the 'grim-visor'd knight,' at the head of his band,
+    Has cased him in armour, and girt on his brand;
+    While Beauty looked down from her lattice on high,
+    With the 'smile on her lip and the tear in her eye.'
+    But victor nor vassal shall hither return:--
+    The castle is roofless,--the chief's in his urn;
+    And those ramparts, that frown o'er the surf-beaten rocks,
+    Are the haunt of the sea-fowl,--the lair of the fox."
+
+This stately relic of the feudal ages overlooks the picturesque Bay of
+Swansea, and attracts many strangers to its gate,--not only for its
+venerable antiquity, but for its bold position on the verge of lofty and
+abrupt limestone cliffs, which command a magnificent view of the
+subjacent scenery. It is supposed by some to have been erected by the
+Earl of Warwick, in the reign of Henry the First; by others, to have
+been the family fortress of the Lords of Gower, in the reign of King
+John. But to which of the two the credit of founder belongs is matter of
+conjecture. Like the Castle of Swansea, already mentioned, it is now the
+property of the Beaufort family, whose mineral possessions in this
+district are said to be of incalculable value.
+
+The principal walls of this domestic fortress have suffered
+comparatively little from the lapse of time, or the hand of violence.
+Most of the original apartments may be easily traced out, so as to give
+a tolerably correct idea of their shape and dimensions, and the internal
+economy with which they were arranged. The general figure of the main
+body is polygonal; the ramparts are lofty and massive, but not flanked
+with towers, except at the entrance, which appears to have been strongly
+secured by double gates and a portcullis.
+
+In many parts along this picturesque coast, the limestone rocks swell
+over a fine sandy beach into perpendicular cliffs of great boldness,
+exhibiting vast quantities of organic remains, and worn in many places
+into deep and lofty caverns. Built on a cliff of this description, and
+with all the necessary accessories of vigilance and security, it could
+have been hardly possible to have selected anything more eligible for a
+feudal keep, whose chiefs generally chose their fortalices as the eagle
+chooses his eyry,--to secure a wide field for himself, and exclude
+lesser birds of prey.
+
+The village of Oystermouth--about half a mile to the south of the
+castle--occupies a beautiful position on the verge of the Bay. A lofty
+rock throws its shadow over it; the headland of which, called the Mumble
+Point, stretches far into the sea, and affords a safe anchorage for
+shipping. The village is chiefly inhabited by fishermen, who, as the
+name implies, are mostly employed in dredging for oysters, which are
+found of superior quality in the adjoining bay. During summer, it is
+much resorted to by strangers, for the benefit of sea-bathing,--a source
+of annual revenue to the inhabitants, who, by letting their apartments,
+secure very good returns.
+
+This is understood to be the natal soil of Gower,--the father of English
+poetry,--and therefore classic ground:--
+
+    "Here, in the olden time the 'moral' GOWER
+      Attuned his harp upon that rocky strand;
+    Gather'd the shell, and pluck'd the vernal flower,
+      And struck the wild chord with a master's hand.
+    To him the summer sea, the stormy wave,
+      Were heaven-born music in their various keys;
+    As, thundering through yon subterranean cave,
+      The billows sang in chorus with the breeze."
+
+The railway from Oystermouth to Swansea is a source of great convenience
+to the inhabitants, as a means of ready intercourse between the most
+frequented points of the coast adjacent. Newton, proverbially known as a
+healthy station for invalids and sea-bathers, and Caswell Bay, within
+half-an-hour's walk of Oystermouth, are well deserving of a stranger's
+attention. The latter is remarkable for the number and extent of the
+marine caverns already alluded to, as well as for the beauty and variety
+of the sea-shells with which the sands at low water are profusely
+enamelled.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: THE MUMBLES ROCKS AND LIGHTHOUSE.
+
+(Swansea Bay.)]
+
+
+
+
+THE MUMBLES' LIGHTHOUSE.
+
+
+    "Amidst the storms,--when winds and waves are high,
+      Unmoved I stand,--undimm'd I shed my light;
+    And through the blackness of December's sky
+      I pour effulgence on the seaman's sight."
+
+        INSCRIPTION FOR A LIGHTHOUSE.
+
+The Mumbles' Lighthouse is much frequented by visitors from Swansea
+during the season. Few jaunts of this character can be productive of
+more enjoyment than a trip from Swansea to Oystermouth Castle and the
+Mumbles' rocks. The road, issuing from the western extremity of Swansea,
+follows the shore of the bay, with the open sea on the left, and on the
+right a range of wooded hills; of which advantage has been taken for the
+site of numerous pretty villas. Some gentlemen's seats occupy the
+intervening level, and their plantations skirt the high-road. Of these
+Singleton Abbey and Woodlands are the principal. As we near the
+extremity of the bay the scene is indeed beautiful. Oystermouth Castle,
+and the pretty village of the same name, lead the visitor onwards till
+he reaches a broken, breezy headland, the only ascent to which is by a
+kind of sheep-path, which zig-zags its way to the summit of a narrow
+promontory terminating in two islands, and on the farther of which is
+situated the Mumbles' Lighthouse. It is a structure admirably adapted
+for the purpose to which it is devoted. To every building of this
+description, devoted to the preservation of human life, a profound
+interest is attached; and we cannot but observe at a single glance how
+invaluable these Lights have been, and ever must be, where the danger of
+shipwreck is so greatly increased by the rugged nature of a coast--here
+walled in by precipitous cliffs, and there scattered with rocks that
+appear and disappear according to the tide. The means thus happily
+adopted along the Welsh coast have been crowned with success; and how
+comfortable is it to reflect, when calmly seated at our winter hearths,
+that--while the "winds howl round our steady battlements," and "ships
+break from their moorings,"--there are friendly lights sparkling around
+our coasts, to cheer and direct the bewildered mariner in his course, to
+show him his danger, and to point out "a way to escape."
+
+To understand the importance of lighthouses, we need only remind the
+reader of the published "Statement," that the number of British vessels
+alone, which have been annually returned as wrecked, amounts to _five
+hundred and fifty_;--namely, "three shipwrecks every two days throughout
+the year." The average burden of merchant-vessels is about one hundred
+and ten tons; and if we value old and new together at half the price of
+building, we have L330,000 for the worth of the whole, which, by
+deducting the value of sails, masts, and other materials saved from some
+of those stranded, may be reduced to L300,000. If we add an equal sum
+for the cost of the cargoes, the whole loss from shipwrecks will amount
+to L600,000. This statement proceeds on an old estimate from 1793 to
+1829; but M'Culloch, in the supplement to his Dictionary, says that the
+number of ships actually lost, or driven ashore, in 1833, amounted to
+_eight hundred_. It is probable, then, that the annual lost by shipwreck
+is not much short of a _million sterling_. If _one-fifth_ of this loss
+could be prevented by additional lighthouses, the saving of money would
+amount to a _million_ in five years,--to say nothing of the still more
+important saving in human life. We are anxious--not on the score of
+economy only, but of humanity--to place these lamentable facts before
+the eyes of Government, from whose hands the mitigation at least, if not
+the removal, of such disasters is confidently expected.
+
+In the rock immediately under the lighthouse is a large cavern, called
+Bob's Cove,--a very characteristic feature, and a chief attraction to
+pleasure-parties, who resort hither at low water for the sake of the
+view, which from this isolated point is very striking and variegated:--
+
+    "Town and hamlet, sea and shore,
+    Wooded steep and mountain hoar;
+    Ships that stem the waters blue,
+    All concentrate in the view."
+
+Expanding to the eastward, is the beautiful curve of Swansea Bay and the
+distant mountains; on the westward, the broken coast of Gower; in front,
+the boundless expanse of ocean. The bracing sea breezes inhaled upon
+this exposed promontory, its elastic turf, and the magnificent prospect
+it everywhere commands, never fail to produce a most agreeable and
+salutary exhilaration, and constitute the finest medical and physical
+tour in the world.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: NASS SANDS LIGHTHOUSES.
+
+(near Bristol.)]
+
+
+
+
+THE NASS SANDS LIGHTHOUSES.
+
+
+                    "After our ship did split,
+    When you, and that poor number saved with you,
+    Hung on our driving boat, I saw your brother,
+    Most provident in peril, bind himself--
+    Courage and hope both teaching him the practice--
+    To a strong mast that lived upon the sea,
+    Where, like Orion on the dolphin's back,
+    I saw him hold acquaintance with the waves
+    So long as I could see."
+
+        TWELFTH NIGHT.
+
+The Nass Lights were erected by the late Mr. Nelson, in 1832, under the
+direction of the Trinity House. The eastern, or upper Light, burns at
+the height of one hundred and sixty-seven feet, and the western, or
+lower one, at one hundred and twenty-three feet above high-water mark.
+They are one thousand feet apart, built of the stone of the country, and
+stand on Nass Point, near Dunraven Castle, Glamorganshire.
+
+It unfortunately was not merely the dangers of the ocean to which the
+luckless mariner was in past times exposed upon this iron-bound coast,
+to them was too frequently added the infamous deceptions of the
+wreckers, who were accustomed to resort to the artifice of driving to
+and fro an ass bearing two lanterns, so as to represent a distant vessel
+in motion, and thus lured many a ship to destruction among the rocks and
+sands. Numerous are the legends of fearful interest which the older
+inhabitants relate descriptive of the accidents attendant upon these
+murderous practices, now happily only matters of history.
+
+The erection of lighthouses, beacons, and other means for the prevention
+of shipwreck, is every year becoming an object of greater importance to
+the members of that excellent corporation, the Trinity House. Within the
+last thirty years, great and permanent advantages have been secured to
+commerce by the vigilance and activity of that body. Much, however, is
+still left to call aloud for the exercise of their high privilege,
+skill, and humanity. The navigation of our coasts is still attended in
+many parts with imminent danger. Rocks, and shoals, and quicksands,
+indeed, cannot be obliterated by the hand of man; but the perils they
+involve, in respect to the shipping, may be greatly diminished by
+increasing the number of those monitory beacons to which the eye of the
+mariner is so often turned with intense anxiety. The erection of the
+two lighthouses which here illustrate the subject, has been attended
+with the happiest consequences. Many a shipwreck, we will venture to
+say, has been prevented by a timely regard to these friendly beacons.
+The Bristol Channel has often been the scene of sad catastrophes in the
+chronicles of seafaring life; but at present the danger to the foreign
+and coasting-trade has been greatly obviated by those judicious measures
+which have emanated from the above society.
+
+The voyage up the Bristol Channel is singularly romantic and beautiful;
+but the coast is exposed to all the fury of the Atlantic, and the surf
+against the cliffs is distinctly visible at Swansea. The steamers now
+keep close along shore, in a channel inside the Nass Sands, which form
+an extensive and dangerous bank to seaward. The contrast between the
+tumultuous masses of breakers over these sands, when the wind is fresh,
+and the calmness of the narrow channel we are traversing in security, is
+very striking. These sands, and another large shoal, called the
+Skerweathers, have been fatal to many vessels. A large West Indiaman,
+with a cargo of rum and other valuable produce, was lost a few years ago
+on a rock called the Tusca, which disappears at high-water; and in 1831,
+this coast was fatal to the steamer _Frolic_, in which all the crew and
+passengers, amounting to nearly eighty persons, perished. The coast near
+Porthcaul appears at Swansea to be the eastern extremity of the bay; but
+the bluff point called the Nass, about eight miles further, is literally
+so. The coast onwards, past the Nass-point, as observed in the admirable
+Engraving annexed, is almost perpendicular, so as closely to resemble a
+lofty wall, in which the limestone rock is disposed in horizontal
+strata. When the sea runs high in this quarter, the scene, as may be
+readily conceived, is truly terrific--
+
+    "And not one vessel 'scapes the dreadful touch
+    Of merchant-marring rocks."
+
+        MERCHANT OF VENICE.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: CARDIFF.]
+
+
+
+
+CARDIFF,
+
+GLAMORGANSHIRE.
+
+
+    "Here British hearts the arms of Rome withstood,
+    Repulsed her cohorts with their native blood;
+    Till Caradoc and independence fell,
+    And freedom shrieked in CARDIFF'S citadel--
+    And Cambria's heroes, rushing on the glave,
+    Died gloriously for her they could not save!"
+
+The county of Glamorgan, of which the principal town is represented in
+the accompanying plate, abounds in historical sites well adapted for the
+pencil, and furnishing the reader with many interesting facts and
+traditions. The southern portion of the country is remarkably fertile,
+highly cultivated, and presents to the stranger a long succession of
+luxuriant corn-fields, verdant pastures, and animated pictures of rural
+happiness and independence. It would be difficult to find any tract of
+land in Great Britain that can surpass the Vale of Glamorgan in richness
+of soil, or in soft and graceful scenery. This favoured region extends
+the whole length of the county--from the base of the mountains on the
+north to the shore of the Bristol Channel on the south-west. It presents
+throughout a most gratifying proof of what may be accomplished by
+judicious management, when soil and climate are both in favour of
+agricultural operations.
+
+As a fair proof of the mild and salubrious nature of the atmosphere, we
+need only observe that the magnolia, the myrtle, and other delicate
+exotics, not only live but flourish in this auspicious climate. Equally
+favourable to health and longevity, this district has numerous living
+testimonies in the vigorous health and protracted age of its
+inhabitants, who are fully sensible of the blessings they enjoy. The
+valley, at its greatest breadth, measures about eighteen miles; in
+various places, however, it is contracted into less than the half of
+this space, and presents in its outline a constant variety of
+picturesque and graceful windings.
+
+The town of Cardiff is built on the eastern bank of the river Taff, over
+which there is a handsome bridge of five arches, leading to Swansea. It
+is a thriving town, possessing considerable trade; and, by means of a
+canal from Pennarth to Merthyr-Tydvil, has become the connecting medium
+between these extensive iron-works and the English market, and is, in
+fact, the port of the latter. The Taff, which falls into the sea at
+Cardiff, forms a principal outlet for the mining districts of
+Glamorganshire, the produce of which has hitherto found its way to
+market through the Glamorganshire canal; but its sea-lock, constructed
+about fifty years ago, has long been found inadequate to the demands for
+increased accommodation, in consequence of the great prosperity of trade
+since the canal was opened.
+
+The Marquess of Bute, possessing lands in this neighbourhood, obtained,
+in 1830, an act for constructing a new harbour, to be called the Bute
+ship-canal, and completed the work at his own expense. The great
+advantages of this enterprise are--a straight, open channel from
+Cardiff-roads to the new sea-gates, which are forty-five feet wide, with
+a depth of seventeen feet at neap, and thirty feet at spring-tide. On
+passing the sea-gate, vessels enter a capacious basin, having an area of
+about an acre and a half, sufficient to accommodate large
+trading-vessels and steamers. Quays are erected along the side of the
+canal, finished with strong granite coping, and comprising more than a
+mile of wharfs, with ample space for warehouses, exclusive of the wharfs
+at the outer basin. This great work was finished in the summer of 1839,
+at an expense to the proprietor of three hundred thousand pounds.
+
+Cardiff Castle, which stands insulated on a high mound of earth, was
+partially restored and modernised by the late Marquess of Bute. This
+ancient fortress is connected with several interesting events in
+history. In one of its towers, or dungeons, Robert Duke of Normandy was
+twenty-five years imprisoned by his younger brother, Henry the First,
+who had previously usurped the throne and deprived him of his eyesight.
+In the reign of Charles the First it was bombarded by the Parliamentary
+forces during three successive days, and only surrendered in consequence
+of treachery on the part of the garrison.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: GLOUCESTER.]
+
+
+
+
+GLOUCESTER.
+
+
+                      "I which am the queene
+    Of all the British vales, and so have ever been
+    Since Gomer's giant brood inhabited this isle,
+    And that of all the rest myself may so enstyle."
+
+        DRAYTON. _Vale of Gloucester._
+
+Caer-Glow, or the "fair city" of the ancient Britons, is a name happily
+characteristic of Gloucester. The beauty of its situation, on a gentle
+eminence overlooking the Severn, where its stream is divided into two
+channels by the Isle of Alney; the richness and fertility of the
+surrounding districts; its highly picturesque scenery; its splendid
+cathedral and numerous public buildings; and latterly the tide of
+prosperity occasioned by the vast improvements in regard to its inland
+port, present a combination of attractions for which it would be
+difficult to find a parallel in the British provinces. Commercial
+enterprise has now a fixed residence in the place, and within the last
+ten years has made great and important advances in the several
+departments of foreign and domestic industry.
+
+The Port of Gloucester and the Cathedral, of which the accompanying
+plate gives a most correct and interesting view, are the two principal
+features; and to these, in accordance with the plan of the work, our
+descriptive text will be more strictly confined. The Port is of great
+antiquity,--so much so as to have existed as an inland harbour long
+prior to any written document of the place,--but it is only of late
+years that ships of burden could be anchored in the city basin. A
+century ago, as recorded in the _Magna Britannia_, the Port of
+Gloucester had a large quay and wharf on the banks of the river, very
+commodious for trade, to which belonged a custom-house, with officers
+proper for it; but the business was not great, as the city of Bristol,
+only a few miles distant, had engrossed all the foreign trade in this
+part of the country. The vessels which at the period in question
+navigated the Severn were generally small trading-craft, of between
+fifty and two hundred tons burden, so that Gloucester was deprived of
+all those advantages which have been so happily secured to it by modern
+enterprise and improvement. Of these, the Berkeley ship-canal is a noble
+monument. By the vast facilities thus afforded, the commerce of
+Gloucester has enjoyed a course of uninterrupted prosperity, and bids
+fair to eclipse even Bristol itself in the extent and ramifications of
+its still increasing trade. Ships of heavy burden are now safely moored
+in the basin, and discharge those cargoes in the heart of the city which
+had formerly to be transhipped at Bristol, and conveyed to their
+destination by means of barges and lighters.
+
+The Gloucester Spa, which is now become a place of fashionable resort,
+has contributed in no small degree to the many attractions of the city
+and its vicinity. This saline chalybeate was first opened to the public
+by a grand fete, in May, 1815. The establishment contains every
+requisite for the health and recreation of the visitors, and vies as
+much with Cheltenham and Leamington in its appropriate and tasteful
+arrangements, as it does in the salubrious qualities of its spring--in
+proof of which numerous testimonies are daily added as the result of
+experience. There is a very handsome pump-room, with hot, cold, and
+vapour baths, and an abundant supply of water. The Spa is in the centre
+of grounds tastefully laid out, embellished with all the care and effect
+of landscape-gardening, and presenting to the _pieton_ and equestrian a
+pleasing variety of shady walks and rides,
+
+    "Mid rural scenes that fascinate the gaze,
+    And conjure up the deeds of other days."
+
+The Cathedral of Gloucester is deservedly considered one of the noblest
+specimens of ecclesiastical architecture in Christendom. It is a grand
+object with every traveller who enters upon a tour of the English
+provinces, and makes a strong impression on the mind, even after he has
+visited the gorgeous temples of Rome and Milan.
+
+In the interior of the cathedral are numerous specimens of monumental
+sculpture; among which the most remarkable are those of Robert, Duke of
+Normandy, and Richard the Second. The present altar, of the Corinthian
+order, is placed before the rich tracery of the original high-altar,
+which, except from the side-galleries of the choir, is concealed from
+view. The great elevation of the vault overhead, the richness and
+variety of its designs, the elaborate and minute tracery with which the
+walls are adorned, added to the vast dimensions of the great
+oriel--eighty-seven feet in height--render the choir an almost
+unrivalled specimen of what is styled the florid Gothic, and leave an
+impression upon the stranger's mind never to be obliterated.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: BRISTOL.
+
+(from Rownham Ferry.)]
+
+
+
+
+BRISTOL,
+
+FROM ROWNHAM FERRY.
+
+
+    "But Avon marched in more stately path,
+    Proud of his adamants[2] with which he shines,
+    And glistens wide; as als of wondrous Bath
+    And BRISTOW faire, which on his waves he buildeth hath."
+
+        SPENSER.
+
+The city of Bristol has enjoyed a celebrity of many centuries, and is
+continually adding to her power and affluence by that spirit of
+enterprise which has drawn tribute from the remotest shores and peopled
+her harbour with the ships of all nations. The commercial importance
+which she acquired at so early a period of our history, and which gave
+her for a time so preponderating an influence over the other ports and
+harbours of the kingdom, has been sustained by her spirited citizens
+with a skill and industry rarely equalled and never surpassed. To the
+great facilities formerly enjoyed by the merchants of Bristol another
+advantage has been added by the construction of the Great Western
+Railway, which has opened a rapid channel of intercourse between the
+Thames and the Severn,--the London docks and the harbour of Bristol.
+This event has been still further advantageous in having given origin to
+various ramifications of the same means of conveyance, so that the
+products of our native manufactures can be thrown into this channel, and
+an interchange effected, with a cheapness and facility quite
+unprecedented in the history of our inland commerce. That Bristol has
+recently extended her commercial interests by her connexion with the
+West Indies, Russia, France, and Germany, is abundantly indicated by the
+numerous traders from those countries which are to be seen lading and
+unlading in her port.
+
+Bristol possesses no less than nineteen parish churches, with a
+population--not including the suburbs--considerably under sixty
+thousand. The cathedral, an ancient and most venerable pile, was founded
+about the middle of the twelfth century by the mayor of Bristol, and,
+till the reign of Henry the Second, it served as a priory of Black
+Canons. It was then converted into an abbey, and subsequently, on the
+dissolution of monastic establishments, under Henry the Eighth, it
+underwent the further change into a cathedral, dedicated to the Holy
+Trinity. A bishop, dean, six secular canons or prebendaries, one
+archdeacon, six minor canons or priests'-vicars, a deacon and subdeacon,
+six lay clerks, six choristers, two grammar-schoolmasters, four almsmen,
+and others, were endowed with the site, church, and greatest part of the
+lands of the old monastery. The various changes it has undergone exhibit
+the finest specimens of English architecture peculiar to the several
+periods at which they took place. All the ornamental work is of the
+purest design, and elaborately executed, but on which our limited space
+will not permit us to enlarge. Several of the lateral chapels are in
+fine taste and preservation, containing monuments of the founder, of
+several abbots, and bishops; also those erected to the memory of Mrs.
+Draper--the "Eliza" of Sterne, Mrs. Mason, and Lady Hesketh, which
+awaken feelings of deep interest in every mind imbued with the literary
+history of the last century.
+
+On the east bank of the Avon is Redcliff Parade, affording a beautiful
+prospect of the city, shipping, and surrounding country. The quay, which
+extends from St. Giles's to Bristol Bridge, exceeds a mile in length,
+and is known by the quaint names of the _Back_, the _Grove_, and the
+_Gib_. On the banks of the river below the city are numerous dockyards,
+as well as the merchants' floating dock. The several squares in Bristol
+are handsome: Queen's-square has a spacious walk, shaded with trees, and
+an equestrian statue of William III., by Rysbrach, in the centre;
+King's-square is well built on an agreeable slope; on the north-west
+side of the city is Brandon-hill, where the laundresses dry their linen,
+as they profess, in virtue of a charter from Queen Elizabeth.
+
+Clifton, two miles west of Bristol, is charmingly situated on the summit
+of the northern cliffs above the river Avon; many of the houses are
+occupied by invalids, who seek the aid of Bristol Hot Wells, situated at
+the western extremity of Clifton, near the stupendous rock of St.
+Vincent. From its summit above the banks of the Avon there is a fine
+prospect of the river and its environs, embracing some of the most
+fertile land in Somersetshire, as well as the western part of Bristol.
+
+[2] In allusion to the crystal-brilliants, long known as "Bristol
+diamonds."
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: REDCLIFFE CHURCH AND BASIN, BRISTOL.]
+
+
+
+
+REDCLIFFE CHURCH AND BASIN, BRISTOL.
+
+
+The church of St Mary Redcliffe's, Bristol, was founded in 1249, and not
+completed till 1375, an interval of a hundred and twenty-six years. The
+founder was Simon de Burton, mayor of Bristol. It is pronounced by
+Camden as "on all accounts the first parish church in England." It has,
+of course, undergone, in the long lapse of generations, many changes,
+repairs, and perhaps improvements. In the middle of the fifteenth
+century, after having been seriously damaged in a storm, it was repaired
+by William Cannynge the mayor; and, owing to the extent of these
+repairs, he has established a just claim to the gratitude of posterity
+as the second founder, and to commemorate the restoration thus effected,
+two beautiful monumental statues were erected to the memory of himself
+and his wife in the church. This patriotic and pious individual was five
+times mayor of Bristol, and makes a prominent figure in the Chatterton
+controversy. It is to be regretted, however, that the spire was never
+restored, which, with the tower, was originally two hundred and fifty
+feet high. So great was the beauty of this sacred edifice, that it was
+celebrated over the whole country as a masterpiece of art, and attracted
+numerous visitors; nor has that admiration diminished with the lapse of
+time, for there are very few individuals, curious in the mystery of
+ecclesiastical architecture, who have not visited or studied the
+specimen here preserved.
+
+The church is built in the form of a cross; and the nave, which rises
+above the aisles in the manner of a cathedral, is lighted by a series of
+lofty windows on each side, and supported by flying-buttresses. The
+tower is large and richly ornamented, like the remaining part of the
+spire, with carved work, niches, and statues. The principal entrance is
+from the west front; but there are porches both to the northern and
+southern sides. Of the first of these the interior is very beautiful;
+and it was over this porch that the room was situated in which
+Chatterton, whose father was sexton of the church, pretended to have
+found the poems which he attributed to Rowley. The length of the church
+is two hundred and thirty-nine feet, that of the transept one hundred
+and seventeen feet. It is remarkable that the transept consists of three
+divisions or aisles, like the body of the church; and the effect thus
+produced is fine and striking, when the spectator places himself in the
+centre and looks around him. The breadth of the nave and aisles is
+fifty-nine feet; the height of the nave is fifty-four feet, and that of
+the aisles twenty-five feet. The roof, which is nearly sixty feet in
+height, is arched with stone, and ornamented with various devices.
+Although externally this church has all the appearance of a massive
+structure, it has nevertheless, from its loftiness and the peculiar
+beauty of its masonry, a light and airy appearance both within and
+without; and justifies the high eulogium, which we have already quoted,
+as pronounced upon it by Camden. Among the sepulchral treasures
+contained in this church, is the tomb of Sir William Penn, father of the
+celebrated founder of Pennsylvania.
+
+The business of shipbuilding is carried on to a very considerable extent
+in Bristol; and stimulated by that spirit which has always characterized
+the magistrates and merchants of Bristol, added to the vast improvements
+which have been so recently affected, it is confidently believed, that
+this ancient city and port are now entering upon a fresh epoch in their
+commercial prosperity.
+
+The principal exports are derived from the neighbouring manufactures;
+and the imports consist chiefly of sugar, rum, wine, wool, tobacco,
+coffee, turpentine, hemp, and timber. The quay extends upwards of a mile
+along the banks of the rivers Frome and Avon. Owing to the serious
+inconvenience and frequent damage sustained by large vessels, when lying
+at low water in the river, a floating harbour was formed here at great
+expense in 1804. To accomplish so important a design the course of the
+Avon was changed; the old channel was dammed up to form the new harbour,
+which, communicating with the river, is accessible at all times, with
+sufficient depth of water for vessels of the largest size. This great
+work, comprising the elegant iron bridges over the Avon, was the result
+of five years' labour, and an enormous expenditure; and, although much
+benefit has accrued to the port from the success of so spirited an
+undertaking, still the expectations to which it naturally gave rise, as
+to the extension of commerce, have not been realized. This is
+attributable to various local causes.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: SUSPENSION BRIDGE AT CLIFTON.
+
+(near Bristol.)]
+
+
+
+
+CLIFTON.
+
+THE SUSPENSION BRIDGE.
+
+
+    "Scared at thy presence, start the train of Death,
+    And hide their whips and scorpions; thee, confused,
+    Slow Fever creeps from; thee the meagre fiend
+    Consumption flies, and checks his rattling cough!"
+
+        ADDRESS TO THE BRISTOL FOUNTAIN.
+
+The village of Clifton has long been distinguished among our native
+watering-places as the Montpelier of England. In point of situation, and
+the beautiful and varied scenery it commands, it is without a rival
+among those numerous springs which, from their medicinal virtues, have
+risen into universal repute. It occupies a very elevated position; and
+from the windows of his apartment the visitor may enjoy enchanting views
+of the western part of Bristol, the Avon, and the numerous vessels that
+glide to and fro upon its waters. The plateau, which terminates a
+gradual ascent from the river, is covered with elegant buildings, that
+furnish excellent accommodation to the numerous visitors who annually
+resort to these salubrious fountains. Many private families of opulence
+and respectability make this their principal residence, and with
+justice, for few situations in the British empire can supply more varied
+and rational sources of enjoyment. Those who seek to combine the
+blessings of health with rational amusement and mental cultivation, will
+very rarely be disappointed in selecting the now "classic" shades of
+Clifton as a residence.
+
+The Bristol hot-well--"Bristoliensis aqua"--is a pure thermal, slightly
+acidulated spring. The fresh water is inodorous, perfectly limpid and
+sparkling, and sends forth numerous air-bubbles when poured into a
+glass. It is very agreeable to the taste, and in specific gravity
+approaches very nearly to that of distilled water; a fact which proves
+that it contains only an extremely minute admixture of foreign
+ingredients. The temperature of this water, taking the average of the
+most accurate observations, may be reckoned at 74 deg.; a degree of
+temperature which is scarcely, if at all, influenced by the difference
+of season. The water contains both solid and gaseous matter, and the
+distinction between the two requires to be attended to, as it is owing
+to its very minute proportion of solid matter that it deserves the
+character of a very fine natural spring. To its excess in gaseous contents
+it is principally indebted for its medicinal properties,--whatever these
+may be,--independently of those of mere water with an increase of
+temperature. The principal ingredients of the hot-well water are a large
+proportion of carbonic acid gas--fixed air--a certain portion of
+magnesia and lime in various combinations with the muriatic, sulphuric,
+and carbonic acids. The general inference is that it is remarkably pure
+for a natural fountain, from the fact of its containing no other solid
+matter--and that in less quantity--than what is contained in almost any
+common spring-water. Much, however, of the merit ascribed to the Bristol
+and Clifton wells is due to the mild and temperate climate of the place,
+which of itself is sufficient to recommend Bristol as a desirable
+residence for invalids.
+
+Independently of its medicinal waters, Clifton has many attractions,
+which from time to time have been the subjects both of painting and
+poetry, and made it the favoured residence of many distinguished
+individuals. Of the latter, none have deserved better of their country
+than Mrs. Hannah More, whose writings breathe the purest sentiments of
+religion and morality, and whose personal _Memoirs_ form one of the most
+interesting volumes in English biography.
+
+The Suspension Bridge, which forms so prominent a feature in our
+engraving, is unfortunately still far from that state of completion in
+which the artist has been pleased to depict it. Many years have passed
+since its commencement, and still more thousands of pounds have been
+expended in preparation, and yet this great and useful work remains a
+monument of misapplied capital and wasted labour.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: BATH.]
+
+
+
+
+BATH.
+
+
+    "O'er ancient Baden's mystic spring
+    Hygeia broods with watchful wing,
+    And speeds from its sulphureous source
+    The steamy torrent's secret course;
+    And fans the eternal sparks of latent fire
+    In deep unfathomed beds below,
+    By BLADUD's magic taught to flow--
+    BLADUD, high theme of Fancy's Gothic lyre!"
+
+        WARTON.
+
+The origin of Bath, like that of other celebrated towns, is involved in
+obscurity. To its medicinal springs, however, it is solely indebted for
+the great reputation it has enjoyed for centuries, as a sanctuary for
+the afflicted, a cheerful asylum for the invalid, and as a favourite
+point of reunion, where social pleasure and mental cultivation were sure
+of a kindred reception among the many gifted spirits who have sought
+health or relaxation in its shades. The comparative quiet which here
+prevails is not without its importance to the invalid; after the
+dissipation of a season in Town, a retreat to Bath is like the
+tranquillity of a monastery after the excitement of a military campaign.
+This was more particularly felt and acknowledged as long as the
+continent remained shut; but during the last twenty years the temptation
+to foreign travel and the fame of certain continental spas have annually
+diverted from home a great many of those whose cases, it is probable,
+would have benefited in an equal measure by resorting to the thermal
+waters of Bath. Travelling, however, is of itself a sanatory process;
+and to this, to the changes of scene, of society, of diet, and to the
+mental excitement produced by a succession of new scenes and incidents,
+the invalid is more indebted than to any of the numerous _spas_, to
+which the credit of a cure is so generally ascribed by the recruited
+votary. This is a fact well known to the physician, and corroborated by
+the results of daily experience. When such means are impracticable,
+however, the society and the waters of Bath furnish excellent
+substitutes; and the testimonies in their favour are too well supported
+by ancient and "modern instances" to require any eulogium in a work like
+the present.
+
+The trade of Bath, like that of most great watering-places, is greatly
+dependent on its visitors. Hotels and lodging-houses are numerous,
+elegant, commodious, and fitted for the accommodation of all classes of
+society. Property, nevertheless, has suffered much depreciation of late
+years, owing to various causes, and not a little to the preference given
+to those continental spas already alluded to, by which many of the
+streams which used to flow in upon Bath as a regular source of
+prosperity have been greatly diminished or entirely dried up.
+
+The public amusements of Bath are numerous and liberally conducted. Of
+these the most important are the subscription assemblies and concerts,
+at which a master of the ceremonies presides--a functionary of high
+authority, who holds his office in regular descent from the hands of the
+celebrated Beau Nash. The latter gentleman, by a peculiar union of good
+sense, "effrontery, wit, vivacity, and perseverance, acquired an
+ascendancy among the votaries of rank and fashion which rendered him a
+species of modish despot, to whose decrees it was deemed a part of the
+loyalty of high breeding to yield in silent submission." The assemblies
+are held in the Upper Rooms, in the vicinity of the Circus, which were
+erected in 1791, at an expense of twenty thousand pounds. The Ball-room
+is one hundred and five feet long, forty-three feet wide, and forty-two
+high. The Lower Assembly-rooms stood near the Parade, and were also very
+elegantly fitted up, though on a less extensive scale, but were
+destroyed by fire in 1820. The theatre is a handsome edifice, fitted up
+in splendid style, with three tiers of boxes, and the roof divided into
+compartments, containing the beautiful paintings by Cassali which
+formerly occupied a similar place in Fonthill Abbey.
+
+In the vicinity of Bath, especially on Lansdown and Claverton Downs,
+there are delightful spots for equestrian exercise. Races take place on
+the former of these the week after Ascot races.
+
+Bath is eminently distinguished for its numerous public charities, its
+literary and scientific institutions, its society for the encouragement
+of agriculture, the arts, manufactures, and commerce; its clubs,
+subscription-rooms, libraries, schools, and hospitals.
+
+The diseases in which the waters of Bath are resorted to are very
+numerous, and in many instances consist of such as are the most
+difficult and important of all that come under medical treatment. In
+most cases the bath is used along with the waters as an internal
+medicine--first adopted in the case of King Charles. The general
+indications of the propriety of using these medicinal waters are chiefly
+in cases where a gentle, gradual, and permanent stimulus is required.
+Bath water may certainly be considered as a chalybeate, in which the
+iron is very small in quantity, but in a highly active form, whilst the
+degree of temperature is in itself a stimulus of considerable power.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: TINTAGEL CASTLE.]
+
+
+
+
+TINTAGEL CASTLE.
+
+
+This Engraving, after Mr. Jendles' spirited sketch, embraces not only
+Tintagel Castle, but one of those more useful erections which modern
+science has rendered available to commercial purposes, and intended for
+the shipment of ores from the neighbouring mine. The different character
+of the erections which crown the opposing cliffs mark the widely
+separated eras of their erection, while both become objects of deep
+interest to those who see in the ruins of the one hand, and the
+progressively improving mechanism of the other, a type of the spirit
+which animated our warlike ancestors to maintain their dominant power
+over their native soil, converted in their more peaceful descendants
+into a determination to make the best use of the treasures it contains.
+
+Tintagel Castle is situated partly on the extremity of a bold rock of
+slate, on the coast, and partly on a rocky island, with which it was
+formerly connected by a drawbridge, and is of great antiquity. This
+castle is said to have been the birthplace of King Arthur, but his
+history is so blended with the marvellous, that his very existence has
+been doubted, and the circumstances connected with his birth are
+certainly not amongst those parts of the relation which are most
+entitled to credit. It was, however, said by Lord Bacon, that there was
+truth enough in his story to make him famous besides that which was
+fabulous.
+
+In the year 1245, Richard Earl of Cornwall, brother to King Henry III.,
+was accused of having afforded an asylum in Tintagel Castle to his
+nephew David, Prince of Wales, and in the reign of Henry III. the castle
+and manor of Tintagel were annexed to the Duchy of Cornwall. So little
+remains of the walls of this ancient and formerly impregnable castle,
+that the date of its erection cannot even be conjectured from the style
+of the architecture: it is certain that the castle was in a dilapidated
+state in 1337, in which year a survey was made. There was then no
+governor, but the priest who officiated in the chapel of the castle had
+the custody of it, without fee. It is described as a castle sufficiently
+walled, in which were two chambers beyond the two gates, in a decayed
+state. A chamber, with a small kitchen for the constable, in good
+repair; a stable for eight horses, decayed; and a cellar and bakehouse,
+ruinous. The timber of the great hall had been taken down by command of
+John of Eltham, Earl of Cornwall, because the hall was ruinous, and the
+walls of no value.
+
+In the reign of Richard II., Tintagel Castle was made a state prison,
+and in 1385, John Northampton, lord mayor of London, was committed to
+this castle. Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, was also a prisoner here
+in 1397. "The ruins of Tintagel Castle," says the Rev. R. Warner, "claim
+dominion over unqualified desolation; over one wide and wild scene of
+troubled ocean, barren country, and horrid rocks: its situation and
+aspect quite chilled the tourist," and in continuation of his
+description, he introduces the less sublime remark, "that to look at it
+was enough to give one the tooth-ache."
+
+Tintagel was made a free borough by Richard Earl of Cornwall, and, as
+well as Trevenna, about a mile distant from each other, forms part of
+the borough of Bossiney, which formerly sent two members to parliament.
+Although not incorporated, it is governed by a mayor. At Trevenna is an
+annual fair for horned cattle on the first Monday after the 19th of
+October; and at Tintagel is a school supported by the mayor and free
+burgesses. The church, dedicated to St. Simphorian, is a vicarage, in
+the patronage of the dean and chapter of Windsor. It was formerly
+appropriated to the abbey of Fonteverard, in Normandy, but having passed
+in the same manner as Leighton Buzzard, in Bedfordshire, was given, by
+King Edward IV., to the collegiate chapel of St. George at Windsor.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: PLYMOUTH.
+
+_Devon._]
+
+
+
+
+PLYMOUTH.
+
+
+The view of Plymouth is taken from the grounds of Mount Edgecumbe,
+looking across the lower part of the Sound. About the middle distance is
+St. Nicholas' Island; beyond which are perceived the ramparts of the
+citadel. Between the citadel and the point of land to the right, where
+several small vessels are seen, is the entrance of the creek called the
+Catwater.
+
+The towns of Plymouth and Devonport--the latter until 1824 having
+usually been called Plymouth Dock, or briefly, Dock--stand nearly in the
+same relation to each other as Portsmouth and Portsea, except that they
+are not contiguous, the distance between them being about a mile and a
+half. Plymouth is the old borough, and Devonport is the modern town; the
+latter, indeed, has been entirely built within the last
+hundred-and-fifty years, since the establishment of the royal dockyard
+by William III., in 1691. Each town returns two members to Parliament,
+this privilege having been conferred on Devonport by the Reform Bill;
+and the municipal government of each is vested in separate authorities.
+Plymouth and Devonport, with Stonehouse, which lies between them, may be
+considered as forming one large town, which occupies a parallelogram
+about two miles and a half in length by one in breadth, and contains,
+with the suburbs of Morice-town and Stoke, about a hundred thousand
+inhabitants.
+
+Plymouth harbour, or, as it is generally called, Sutton Pool, is on the
+land side nearly surrounded by houses, and the entrance to it from the
+Catwater is protected by two stone piers, about ninety feet apart.
+Plymouth has a considerable coasting trade with London, Bristol, Hull,
+Newcastle, and other parts of England, and also carries on a direct
+trade with the Baltic, the Mediterranean, America, and the West Indies.
+The principal exports are copper, tin, and lead-ore, manganese, granite,
+and pilchards. There are about fifty decked fishing-boats belonging to
+Plymouth, which not only supply its market and that of Devonport with
+plenty of excellent fish, but also furnish a considerable quantity for
+Bath, London, and other places. The fish most common in Plymouth market
+are hake, basse, gurnards, pipers, tub-fish, whiting-pouts, soles,
+mullets red and grey, and John-Dories. Quin, that he might enjoy the
+latter fish in perfection, took an express journey from Bath to
+Plymouth. The export of granite, and other kinds of stone for the
+purposes of building, is greatly facilitated by a railway, which extends
+from about the middle of Dartmoor to the quays at Sutton Pool and
+Catwater. The larger class of merchant-vessels generally anchor in the
+Catwater; and in time of war it is the usual rendezvous for transports.
+It is sheltered from south-westerly gales by Mount Battan, and is
+sufficiently spacious to afford anchorage for six or eight hundred sail
+of such ships as are usually employed in the merchant service. There are
+about 320 ships belonging to Plymouth, the tonnage of which, according
+to the old admeasurement, is about 26,000 tons.
+
+Though the neighbourhood of Plymouth affords so many beautiful and
+interesting views, the town itself presents but little to excite the
+admiration of the stranger. It is very irregularly built; and most of
+the old houses have a very mean appearance, more especially when
+contrasted with some of recent erection. Several large buildings, within
+the last twenty or thirty years, have been erected at Plymouth and
+Devonport, in the _pure Grecian style_; and the two towns afford ample
+evidence of the imitative genius of the architects. At the corner of
+almost every principal street, the stranger is presented with
+reminiscences of Stuart and Revett's Athens.
+
+Plymouth citadel is situated to the southward of the town, and at the
+eastern extremity of the rocky elevation called the Hoe. It commands the
+passage to the Hamoaze, between St. Nicholas' Island and the main-land,
+as well as the entrance of the Catwater. It was erected on the site of
+the old fort, in the reign of Charles II., and consists of five
+bastions, which are further strengthened with ravelins and hornworks.
+The ramparts are nearly three-quarters of a mile in circuit; and there
+are platforms for a hundred-and-twenty cannon. The entrance to the
+citadel is on the north, through an outer and an inner gate. Within the
+walls are the residence of the lieutenant-governor, officers' houses and
+barracks for the garrison, with a magazine, chapel, and hospital. In the
+centre of the green is a bronze statue of George II., the work of an
+artist named Robert Pitt, and erected, in 1728, at the expense of Louis
+Dufour, Esq., an officer of the garrison. An excellent panoramic view of
+Plymouth, Saltram, the Catwater, the Sound, Mount Edgecumbe, and other
+places, is to be obtained from the ramparts, round which visitors are
+permitted to walk.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: MOUNT EDGECUMBE.
+
+_DEVON._]
+
+
+
+
+MOUNT EDGECUMBE.
+
+
+The view of Mount Edgecumbe is taken from Cremhill point, a little to
+the south-east of the entrance of Stonehouse Creek. About the centre of
+the view is perceived a battery, near to the Old Blockhouse which was
+erected in the reign of Queen Elizabeth; between the masts of the brig,
+which is sailing in towards the Hamoaze, the house is seen; and to the
+left, in the distance, is Cawsand Bay.
+
+For upwards of two hundred years the situation of Mount Edgecumbe,
+whether looking towards it or from it, and the beauty of the grounds in
+its vicinity have been the subject of general admiration. In visiting
+Mount Edgecumbe from Plymouth or Devonport, the most usual way is to
+cross at the ferry from Cremhill point. The gardens generally first
+claim the visitor's attention. Near the lodge, on the left, is a garden
+laid out in the Italian style, and surrounded by a bank planted with
+evergreens. In this garden is the orangery, and opposite to it is a
+beautiful terrace, on which, and in the grounds below, are several
+statues. The visitor is next shown the French flower-garden, which is
+planted with the most beautiful shrubs and flowers, and was the
+favourite retreat of Sophia, Countess of Mount Edgecumbe, who died in
+1806, and to whose memory a cenotaph, consisting of an urn and a tablet,
+is erected within its bounds. The English garden and shrubbery display
+less art, but are no less beautiful than the imitative gardens of Italy
+and France. In it is a bath of the Doric order, and a secluded walk
+leads to a rocky excavation, overspread with ivy and other creeping
+plants, amidst lofty evergreens: fragments of antiques are scattered
+amidst heaps of stones in this romantic dell. In the pleasure-grounds, a
+path continued along the edge of a cliff, which affords interesting
+views of the picturesque sinuosities of the coast, leads to a verdant
+lawn, from which the sides rise with a gentle ascent in a semicircle.
+The acclivity above the lawn is thickly shaded by a succession of trees,
+which form a magnificent amphitheatre, and display an endless variety of
+foliage. From different parts of the amphitheatre, Barn Poole presents
+the appearance of an extensive lake, without any visible communication
+with the sea, from which it appears to be separated by the diversified
+line of coast, that forms its boundary on every side. At the entrance of
+a wood near this spot is an Ionic circular temple dedicated to Milton,
+whence the path continues on the margin of the cliff, through
+plantations and shrubs, which fringe the rocky coast down to the brink
+of the sea. In the more open part of the park is a mock ruin, intended
+as a picturesque object from the grounds and from the opposite shore. A
+cottage near the cliff is overhung with beautiful evergreen oaks, the
+windows of which command pleasing sea views in opposite directions.
+After ascending a perpendicular rock, by a winding path of perilous
+appearance, the great terrace at the arch presents itself, having the
+appearance of a perforation in the cliff, the base of which is washed by
+the waves of the Sound.
+
+The walks round the grounds are extremely pleasing, and from many points
+excellent views are obtained of Plymouth Sound, the Hamoaze, Devonport,
+and the surrounding country. It seems, however, doubtful if the
+circumstance of a nobleman's seat commanding a view of a large town, at
+the distance of less than a mile, be an advantage to it. It is perhaps
+not altogether pleasant to have a _country_ seat overlooked by, and
+overlooking, a large town. Dr. Johnson, alluding to the view of Mount
+Edgecumbe, has observed, that "though there is the grandeur of a fleet,
+there is also the impression of there being a dock-yard, the
+circumstances of which are not agreeable."
+
+The house at Mount Edgecumbe was erected about the year 1550, by Sir
+Richard Edgecumbe, who was sheriff of Devonshire in the thirty-fifth
+year of the reign of Henry VIII., in the castellated style, with
+circular towers at the corners. About seventy years ago, those towers
+were pulled down, and rebuilt in their present octangular form. In the
+principal rooms is a collection of family portraits, including a few by
+Sir Joshua Reynolds.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: BRIXHAM.]
+
+
+
+
+BRIXHAM.
+
+
+    "Here busy boats are seen: some overhaul
+    Their loaded nets; some shoot the lightened trawl;
+    And, while their drags the slimy bottom sweep,
+    Stealthily o'er the face o' the waters creep;
+    While some make sail, and singly or together
+    Furrow the sea with merry wind and weather."
+
+        W. STEWART ROSE.
+
+In the Engraving of Brixham Quay, from a painting by Edward Duncan, the
+view is taken from the eastward. To the right, from the end of the pier,
+several of the larger class of fishing vessels belonging to the place
+are perceived lying aground; while, further in the harbour, a merchant
+brig is seen discharging her cargo. In the foreground, to the left, the
+attention of a group appears to be engaged by a small ship which a young
+fisherman holds in his hands.
+
+Brixham lies about a mile and a half to the westward of Berry Head, the
+southern extremity of Torbay, in the county of Devon, and is about
+twenty-eight miles south of Exeter, and one hundred and ninety-eight
+west-south-west of London. As a fishing town, Brixham is one of the most
+considerable in the kingdom. The total number of fishing vessels
+belonging to the place is nearly two hundred, of which, about one
+hundred and ten are from thirty to forty tons burden, and the rest from
+six to eighteen tons. Besides these, there are several yawls and smaller
+boats which are employed in the fishery near the shore. For years past
+about seventy of the larger class of fishing vessels have been
+accustomed to proceed to Ramsgate, for the purpose of catching fish in
+the North Sea for the supply of the London market. They usually leave
+Brixham in November and December, and return again towards the latter
+end of June. The Brixham fishermen send a great quantity of fish to the
+Exeter, Bath, Plymouth, and Bristol markets. The principal fish which
+they take are cod, ling, conger-eels, turbot, whitings, hake, soles,
+skate and plaice, with herring and mackerel in the season. A quantity of
+whitings are generally salted and dried at Brixham. On the coast of
+Devonshire dried whitings are called "buckhorn," a name sufficiently
+expressive of their hardness and insipidity. Besides the vessels
+employed in the fishery, there are ships belonging to Brixham which are
+chiefly engaged in the West India, Mediterranean, and coasting trades.
+A weekly market, with a market-house at the water-side, was established
+here in 1799, and in 1804 a stone pier of great strength was erected at
+the expense of the nation. The population of the place is about 5,000.
+One of the most memorable events in its history is the landing there of
+William Prince of Orange, afterwards William III., on the 5th of
+November, 1688. The view of Torbay, from the cliffs above the town, is
+in the highest degree interesting, especially when enlivened, as it
+frequently is, by a fleet of fishing-boats dotting its placid waters,
+and stretching far into the British Channel.
+
+At an early period the manor of Brixham was held by the Nevants and the
+Valletorts; but after divers ownerships it was divided into twelve
+quarters, one of which was purchased by twelve fishermen of Brixham
+Quay, and divided into as many shares; some of these have been much
+farther subdivided, yet their owners, be their shares ever so small,
+have the local denomination of Quay Lords.
+
+Brixham Church Town is about a mile distant from the quay. The church is
+a spacious structure of the date of the fourteenth century, with an
+embattled tower, and the peculiarities of the architecture of that
+period. It is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and contains several
+monuments of considerable antiquity, the inspection of which will repay
+the antiquarian for the visit.
+
+Torquay, one of the most fashionable watering-places on the Devonshire
+coast, is situated on the opposite side of Torbay, at a distance of
+about five miles by water; but if the journey be made by land, the curve
+of the bay extends it upwards of nine. It is sheltered from the north
+winds by the promontory of Hope's Nose, and a range of lofty hills which
+form its northern boundary. It is rapidly increasing in extent, and is
+spoken of in terms of the highest admiration by most of the visitors.
+The houses are chiefly built of a kind of marble found in the vicinity,
+and are so scattered among the hills and dales as to command delightful
+views of the surrounding country. On the coast the rock scenery is truly
+magnificent, and from the heights the eye ranges over a wide extent of
+cultivated land, abounding in every variety of nature, and terminated by
+the distant outline of the mountain tops.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: EXMOUTH.]
+
+
+
+
+EXMOUTH.
+
+
+The town of Exmouth, as its name imports, is situated at the mouth of
+the Ex, one of the largest rivers in Devonshire, which, rising in
+Exmoor, in Somersetshire, flows past Tiverton, Exeter, and Topsham, and
+after a course of about seventy miles discharges itself into the sea. It
+lies on the left bank of the river, and is about eleven miles to the
+south-eastward of Exeter, and one hundred and sixty-eight from London.
+It is sheltered from the north-east and south-east winds; and the
+temperature of the air is mild and highly favourable to invalids. As the
+bathing-machines are placed within the bar, which breaks the violence of
+the sea, visiters are thus enabled to bathe in safety at all times.
+There are also excellent warm sea-water baths in the town for such as
+require them. There is a convenient market-place at Exmouth; and a new
+church was erected by Lord Rolle in 1825. Exmouth and Littleham
+constitute a united parish, the population of which is about 3,400. In
+1814, the late Admiral Sir Edward Pellew was created a peer, with the
+title of Baron Exmouth; and in 1816, after his expedition to Algiers, he
+was further advanced to the rank of Viscount.
+
+In the reign of King John, Exmouth appears to have been a port of some
+consequence; and in 1347 it furnished ten ships and one hundred and
+ninety-three mariners to the grand fleet assembled by Edward III. for
+his expedition against France. In the reign of Henry VIII., Leland calls
+it "a fisschar tounlet," in which state it appears to have continued
+till about the middle of the last century, when it began to increase, in
+consequence of the number of persons visiting it for the sake of
+sea-bathing. It is said that Exmouth first came into repute as a
+watering-place from one of the judges of assize going there to bathe,
+and returning with his health very much improved. The following account
+of the place, and of the manner in which the visiters passed their time
+about sixty years ago, is from a letter published in Polwhele's _History
+of Devon_:--"The village is a very pretty one, and composed, for the
+most part, of cot-houses, neat and clean, and consisting of four or five
+rooms, which are generally let at a guinea a week. We have from some of
+the houses, when the tide is in, a beautiful view of the river, which,
+united with the sea, forms a fine sheet of water before our doors of
+large extent. Lord Courtenay's and Lord Lisburne's grounds, rising in
+inequalities on the other shore, complete the perspective. This is the
+most gay part of the village; but then its brilliancy is only
+temporary--for, the tide returned, instead of a fine sheet of water, we
+are presented with a bed of mud, whose perfumes are not equal to those
+of a bed of roses.... Exmouth boasts no public rooms or assemblies, save
+one card assembly, in an inconvenient apartment at one of the inns, on
+Monday evenings. The company meet at half after five, and break up at
+ten; they play at shilling whist, or twopenny quadrille. We have very
+few young people here, and no diversions; no _belles dames_ amusing to
+the unmarried, but some _beldames_ unamusing to the married. Walking on
+a hill which commands a view of the ocean, and bathing, with a visit or
+two, serve to pass away the morning, and tea-drinking in the evening."
+
+From the preceding account it would appear that Exmouth, "sixty years
+since," was but a dull place, even at the height of the season, and more
+likely to induce lowness of spirits than to prove a remedy for care,
+"the busy man's disease;" for what temperament, however mercurial, could
+bear up against the daily round of tea-parties--where silence was only
+broken by the "beldame's" scandal--diversified once a week with shilling
+whist or twopenny quadrille? Since the period when the above-quoted
+letter was written, Exmouth has been greatly improved, and many large
+houses have been built for the accommodation of visiters. But since the
+cot-houses have been elevated to handsome three-storied dwellings, it is
+only fair to add that the rate of lodgings has also been raised in the
+same proportion; "five or six rooms, neat and clean," are no longer to
+be obtained at a guinea a week. There is now a commodious assembly-room
+in the town, where the young and the fair--who are not so scarce at
+Exmouth as they appear to have been sixty years ago--occasionally meet
+to enjoy the amusement of dancing; while the more elderly have still the
+opportunity of cheating time at "shilling whist or twopenny quadrille."
+There are also several billiard and reading-rooms, which are places
+pleasant enough to while away an hour or two in when it rains; and the
+monotony of the morning walk on the hill, and the dulness of the evening
+tea-drinking, are now frequently diversified with excursions by water to
+Powderham Castle, Dawlish, Topsham, and places adjacent.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: BUDLEIGH SALTERTON.]
+
+
+
+
+BUDLEIGH-SALTERTON.
+
+
+The village of Budleigh-Salterton lies about half-way between Sidmouth
+and Exmouth, and at a short distance to the westward of the mouth of the
+river Otter. It is pleasantly situated by the sea-shore; and the beauty
+of the country in its vicinity, and the convenience afforded for
+sea-bathing, have caused it of late years to be much frequented as a
+watering-place.
+
+Of the many watering-places with which the requirements of fashion have
+sprinkled our southern coasts, there are few which can boast of a more
+delightful situation than the subject of our present engraving.
+Protected on both sides by the surrounding hills, it is completely
+sheltered from the severity of those winds which are frequently the bane
+of some of our otherwise most eligible retreats; while its view of the
+ocean is uninterrupted by any of those obstacles which add more to the
+utility than the beauty of our older sea-bathing towns. The coast of
+Devonshire offers peculiar advantages to the invalid; it has a southern
+aspect; the winters are milder than in any other part of England, and
+the north-east wind, with its concomitant evils, is less felt than in
+the more exposed though more popular ports of the Isle of Thanet. In
+addition to a genial climate, Devonshire is entitled to some preference
+on the score of economy with that large class to whom the cost of even
+an occasional residence at the coast is a serious consideration; and
+although a temporary sojourn at any watering-place must necessarily be
+more expensive than the same time spent in a rural district, the visiter
+will find that in none can a greater share of the comforts and even
+luxuries of life be obtained upon moderate terms than in
+Budleigh-Salterton and its neighbouring towns of Exmouth and Sidmouth.
+
+Another advantage which these smaller towns possess is the freedom from
+restraint in which they allow their patrons to indulge. The almost
+slavish deference which the higher classes of society are compelled to
+pay to certain conventional rules of fashion and etiquette may be
+quietly laid aside during a residence at such towns as the one now
+before us, and this, too, without fear of forfeiting that claim to
+exclusiveness which every grade is so anxious to maintain against the
+one below it. Few persons will deny the gratification that they have
+derived from an occasional relaxation of those social laws that restrict
+our actions in everyday life; and not the least of the benefits which
+they receive from their summer visits to the coast may be traced to the
+opportunities which they afford for their becoming again, though but for
+a few weeks, or even days, "children of a larger growth."
+
+The village of East Budleigh, which is also the name of one of the
+hundreds into which Devon is divided, lies about two miles above
+Budleigh-Salterton, on the banks of the river Otter. Leland, in his
+_Itinerary_, thus notices East Budleigh: "On the west side of the haven
+is Budelegh, right almost against Oterton, but it is somewhat more from
+the shore than Oterton. Lesse then an hunderith yeres sins, ships usid
+this harbour, but it is now clene barrid. Some call this Budeley Haven,
+of Budeley town." It has been supposed by Polwhele that the name
+Budleigh, or Budely, is derived from the British _budelle_, a stream,
+and that it had originated from the number of springs or small brooks
+which run through every valley in the parish; for scarcely a house can
+be found that is more than a furlong distant from a rivulet.
+
+Hayes, near East Budleigh, is celebrated as the birthplace of Sir Walter
+Raleigh. This fact is mentioned in our notice of Ladram Bay; but the
+following circumstance, which has since come to our knowledge, will
+confirm the remarks we then made, by showing the hero's love for the
+place of his birth, and its probable effect upon his after life. His
+father having only a lease of the property, it subsequently came into
+the possession of a person named Duke, to whom Sir Walter addressed a
+letter, dated "From the Court, 26th July, 1584," wherein he expresses a
+wish to purchase the farm and house of Hayes, and says that from "the
+natural disposition he has to that place, being born in that house, he
+would rather seat himself there than any where else." The proprietor,
+not wishing to have so great a man for a neighbour, did not comply with
+Sir Walter's request. The letter, about fifty years ago, was to be seen
+at Otterton House, pasted on a piece of board for its better
+preservation.[3]
+
+At St. Mary Ottery, about six miles above East Budleigh, on the opposite
+side of the river, the poet Coleridge was born, in 1772. When young he
+went to London, where he was educated at Christ's Hospital; and few
+reminiscences of the place of his birth are to be found in his poems,
+though he has dedicated one sonnet to his "Dear native brook, wild
+streamlet of the west,"--the river Otter.
+
+[3] Polwhele's _History of Devon_, vol ii. p. 219.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: VIEW FROM THE BEACH AT SIDMOUTH.
+
+_LOOKING TOWARDS THE SOUTH-WEST._]
+
+
+
+
+VIEW FROM THE BEACH AT SIDMOUTH,
+
+LOOKING TOWARDS THE SOUTH-WEST.
+
+
+In this view, from a painting by J. D. Harding, the characteristic
+features of the coast of Devon are most happily expressed; and the
+manner in which the subject is treated at once displays the feeling of
+the artist to appreciate, and his ability to depict, the most beautiful
+scenery of the English coast. The simplicity of truth is not here
+outraged for the sake of pictorial effect, but the whole composition is
+at the same time appropriate, natural, and pleasing.
+
+Sidmouth is situated on the southern coast of Devonshire, about 15 miles
+south-east of Exeter, and 158 south-west of London. It derives its name
+from the little stream called the Sid, which there discharges itself
+into the sea. The town is situated at the end of a beautiful vale, and
+is sheltered on the east, west, and north by ranges of hills, which are
+cultivated to their very summits. It occupies the margin of a small bay,
+bounded on the east by Salcombe Hill, and on the west by Peak Hill, each
+more than 600 feet above the level of the sea at low water. The
+undulating and richly-cultivated vale through which the Sid meanders is
+screened towards the north by the Gittisham and Honiton Hills. On the
+south it commands an extensive view of the sea. It has a bold and open
+shore, and many of its newest houses are built near the beach, which is
+protected from the encroachments of the sea by a natural rampart of
+shingly pebbles, that rises in four or five successive stages from near
+low-water mark, and terminates in a broad and commodious promenade about
+one-third of a mile in length. Sidmouth has two suburbs, respectively
+called the Western Town and the Marsh. It has a weekly market on
+Saturday, and two annual fairs--the one on Easter Tuesday, the other on
+the Wednesday after September 1. The church is dedicated to St.
+Nicholas. Its revenues were granted, in 1205, by Bishop Marshall, to the
+monastery of St. Michael, in Normandy, to which the priory of Otterton
+was a cell, but afterwards reduced with those of the other alien
+priories. The beauty of its situation, the mildness and salubrity of the
+air, and the conveniences afforded for sea-bathing, have caused Sidmouth
+to be much frequented within the last forty years as a watering-place;
+and there are now many private residences of the nobility and gentry
+erected in its immediate vicinity, the proprietors of which, attracted
+by the beauty of the scenery, and the mild, sheltered character of the
+situation, reside there during the greater part of the year; thus giving
+a superiority to the society, which the visitor cannot always find in
+sea-bathing towns of a much larger population.
+
+Sidmouth is a place of great antiquity; and in 1348 it supplied three
+ships and sixty-two mariners to the great fleet of Edward III. It has
+been said that there was formerly a good harbour at Sidmouth, but that
+it became so choked up with sand, that no ships could enter. This
+account, however, is considered by the Rev. Edmund Butcher to be
+inaccurate. He says that no sand has destroyed its harbour; and he is of
+opinion that there never was one of any magnitude at the place. He,
+however, thinks that there might have been a kind of natural basin, in
+which the small vessels of former times might have rode, or even
+discharged their cargoes, with less risk than is at present incurred by
+vessels which unload on the beach.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: CAVES AT LADRAM BAY.
+
+_DEVONSHIRE._]
+
+
+
+
+CAVES AT LADRAM BAY.
+
+
+Ladram Bay is on the southern coast of Devonshire, and lies between
+Sidmouth and the mouth of the river Otter. It is of small extent, and is
+neither noticed by any of the historians of the country, nor described
+in any guide-book. The Lade rock forms its eastern extremity; and to the
+westward it is bounded by a similar promontory, near to which are the
+caves represented in the engraving. The bay is only accessible to
+pedestrians proceeding from Sidmouth at low water through a cave at its
+eastern point; and its approach from the westward is also through a
+perforated rock. This small and secluded bay is extremely romantic, and
+the cliffs between its extreme points are lofty and nearly
+perpendicular. It is frequently visited in summer by picnic parties from
+Sidmouth, Otterton, and Budleigh Salterton; and it is said that
+smugglers, availing themselves of its retired situation, occasionally
+manage to land a cargo there, notwithstanding the vigilance of the
+preventive men, who have a look-out near the bay, but not a regular
+station. The only house in its immediate vicinity is a fisherman's
+cottage, near the end of the road leading to it from Otterton.
+
+There are several curious caverns and perforated rocks on the southern
+coast of Devon. Just within the promontory called the Bolt-head, at the
+western end of Salcomb-bar, is a cavern called the Bull-hole, which is
+believed by many persons of the neighbourhood to extend for about three
+miles to a similar cavern in a creek near Sewer-mill. The tradition is
+that a bull entered at one cavern, and came out at the other; and hence
+the name of the Bull-hole. Nearly at the top of the cliff of Bolberry
+Down, about a mile to the eastward of the Bolt-tail, is a cavern called
+Ralph's-hole, which is about twenty feet long, seven feet wide, and
+eight feet high. It is nearly four hundred feet above the sea; and the
+rock by which it is approached is within three feet of the precipice,
+and only admits of one person passing at a time. It is said that a man
+named Ralph made this cave his abode for many years in order to avoid
+being arrested, and that with a hay-fork as a weapon to defend the
+entrance he set the bailiffs at defiance; his residence, however, was
+more remarkable for its security than its convenience; and if the
+blessing of freedom is not included in the balance of advantages and
+evils, Ralph would probably have found a more comfortable home in any of
+her Majesty's gaols than in his sea-beaten fortress. A few miles
+further westward, directly off Thurlston sands, in Bigberry bay, is a
+perforated rock, about thirty feet high, called Thurlston rock. At very
+low ebb-tides it is left dry, but as the flood increases, the sea washes
+over it, making a noise in stormy weather that is heard at a great
+distance.
+
+The village of Otterton, in the immediate vicinity of these caves, is
+remarkable for the peculiarity of possessing a church with a tower at
+the eastern end. At this place there was formerly an alien priory
+subject to St. Michael's, in Normandy. The river Otter is a fine trout
+stream, and affords much amusement to the patrons of the rod and line;
+but it is navigable for boats only at high-water, when small craft can
+ascend as far as Otterton, about two and a half miles from its mouth. A
+view from Peak-hill, an eminence in this neighbourhood, frequently
+excites the admiration of visitors, commanding as it does the beautiful
+vale of Sidmouth, with the village and beach on the east, the vale of
+the Otter on the west, bordered by Haldon and other hills, and extending
+to the sea on the south.
+
+Bicton House, on the banks of the Otter, is the seat of Lord Rolle; it
+is a spacious edifice, standing in a park plentifully stocked with
+beach, elm, and oak, and abounding in deer. At the time of Domesday
+survey, this manor was held by the somewhat burdensome tenure of
+maintaining the county gaol; but from this service it has been many
+years relieved by Act of Parliament. Sir Walter Raleigh was born at
+Hayes, in the parish of East Budleigh, a small village about four miles
+from Sidmouth; and much of his love for maritime enterprise was probably
+derived from his early associations with this romantic coast, so well
+calculated to impress the youthful mind with a passion for the sea and
+its wonders.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: WEYMOUTH.]
+
+
+
+
+WEYMOUTH
+
+
+Weymouth and Melcombe-Regis lie on opposite sides of the same river, the
+latter on the east, and the former on the west. They are connected by a
+bridge, the central part of which can be swung open, to allow of the
+passing and repassing of ships. The name of Weymouth is generally given
+to the united towns, which are both in the county of Dorset, and about
+130 miles to the south-westward of London.
+
+Weymouth derives its name from the Wey, or Way, a small river which
+there discharges itself into the sea. It is a place of great antiquity;
+it is mentioned in a charter granted by Ethelred, about the year 880,
+giving certain lands there to his faithful minister, Altsere. In the
+Domesday Survey there are no less than eight places in the county with
+the name of _Wai_ or _Waia_; that, however, which is described as having
+twelve _salterns_, or salt ponds, was undoubtedly the Weymouth of the
+present time. In the reign of Edward II. Weymouth returned two members
+to Parliament; and in 1347, probably in conjunction with Melcombe, it
+supplied 15 ships and 263 mariners to the grand fleet of Edward III.
+
+Melcombe owes its adjunct, "Regis"--King's--to its having been a part of
+the demesne lands of the crown in the time of Edward I. It is not
+mentioned in the Domesday survey; but it appears to have been summoned
+to return two members to Parliament several years earlier than Weymouth,
+though the latter, in all charters, has precedence as the more ancient
+town. The inhabitants of the two places had frequent quarrels respecting
+their rights to the harbour and the profits thence accruing; and, in
+consequence of those dissensions, the towns were deprived of the
+privileges of a staple port by Henry VI. In the thirteenth year of the
+reign of Elizabeth the two towns were united into one borough, having
+their privileges in common, and jointly returning four members to
+Parliament. By the Reform Bill the number of members returned by the
+united towns has been limited to two.
+
+The following is Leland's account of the two places at the time of his
+visiting them, in the reign of Henry VIII.: "Ther is a townlet on the
+hither side of the haven of Waymouth caullid Milton or Melcombe], beyng
+privilegid and having a mair. This town, as it is evidently seene, hathe
+beene far bigger then it is now. The cause of this is layid on to the
+Frenchmen, that in tymes of war rasid this towne for lak of defence. For
+so many houses as be yn the town, they be welle and strongly buildid of
+stone. There is a chapelle of ease in Milton. The paroch church is a
+mile of: a manifest token that Milton is no very old town ... Milton
+standith as a peninsula, by reason of the water of the haven that a
+little above the toun, spreedith abrode and makith a bay, and by the bay
+of the mayne sea that gulfith it in on the other side. The tounlet of
+Waymouth lyith strait agaynst Milton on the other side of the haven, and
+at this place the water of the haven is but of a small brede; and the
+_trajectus_ is by a bote and a rope bent over the haven, so that in the
+fery bote they use no oars. Waymouth hath certein liberties and
+privileges, but ther is no mair yn it. Ther is a key and warf for
+shippes."[4]
+
+In the same manner as at many other towns on the southern coast, the
+trade of Weymouth appears to have declined considerably from the time
+that the English ceased to have any possessions in France; and the
+comparatively small depth of water in the harbour has tended to prevent
+the increase of its shipping in modern times. The harbour at Weymouth is
+what is called a tide-harbour. The channel is about fourteen feet deep
+at high water; and at the quays on each side the ships lie aground at
+low water. The large lake at the westward of Melcombe-Regis receives at
+spring tides a vast body of water, which, on its return scours the
+harbour and prevents the accumulation of sand. The number of ships
+belonging to the port of Weymouth is about eighty-five, the aggregate
+tonnage of which is 7175 tons.
+
+The increase of Weymouth within the last forty or fifty years is chiefly
+owing to the number of persons who take up a temporary residence there
+to enjoy the benefit of sea-bathing, for which the excellent beach
+affords the greatest convenience. It is said that the place first began
+to obtain celebrity on this account about 1763, in consequence of Ralph
+Allen, Esq., of Prior Park, near Bath, having derived great benefit
+while residing there, and recommending it to his friends. Weymouth was
+visited, in 1789, by George III., who resided there for about ten weeks,
+and was so much pleased with the place that in several succeeding years
+it was honoured with a royal visit.
+
+[4] Leland's Itinerary, vol. iii., p. 79. Edition 1769.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: HURST CASTLE.
+
+_THE PRISON OF KING CHARLES I._]
+
+
+
+
+HURST CASTLE
+
+
+    "Here Walter Scott has woo'd the Northern muse;
+    Here he with me has joyed to walk or cruise;
+    Hence have we ranged by Celtic camps and barrows,
+    Or climb'd the expectant bank, to thread the Narrows
+    Of HURST, bound westward to the gloomy bower
+    Where CHARLES was prisoned in yon island-tower."
+
+        W. STEWART ROSE.
+
+Among the numerous objects which confer particular interest and beauty
+on the neighbourhood of Lymington, the most prominent is Hurst Castle,
+of which a striking view is presented in the annexed Engraving. It was
+erected by Henry the Eighth, as a fortress for the protection of this
+part of the Channel from piratical inroads and hostile aggression, and
+to give his "loving subjects" a strong and lasting pledge of his
+"paternal solicitude" for their welfare. It is situated near the
+extremity of a remarkable, natural causeway, or point of land, which
+runs boldly into the sea to a distance of nearly two miles, and exhibits
+these massive battlements to great advantage. Its works of defence
+consist of a circular tower, strengthened by semicircular bastions; and
+when armed and garrisoned in a manner becoming the important trust
+confided to it, must have presented a very formidable appearance.
+
+Lymington, to whose neighbourhood this formidable stronghold serves as
+an attractive feature, is now well known and much frequented as a
+delightful watering-place. It stands about a mile from the narrow
+channel which separates the main land from the Isle of Wight. Owing to
+the daily increasing facilities of communication, the picturesque
+scenery of the New Forest, the various objects of interest and notoriety
+with which the vicinity abounds, and the delightful prospects which may
+be enjoyed from the windows of the apartments as well as from the
+adjoining walks, Lymington is well deserving of the commendation which
+it has uniformly received from all strangers.[5]
+
+Among the many tempting rides and walks which are open to the public,
+and present a continual variety of sea and inland views, the most
+interesting are those to Mudiford, Milford, Boldre, Beaulieu, and High
+Cliff. On the latter the late Earl of Bute erected a magnificent
+edifice, in consequence of an early and strong partiality to the spot;
+for here, he observed, he had always slept soundly, when he could find
+that luxury nowhere else. The view from this point is one of the finest
+in the kingdom. The house, though much reduced in size, and modernized
+by the present owner, has rather gained than lost by the change; while
+the salubrious quality of the air has certainly not deteriorated. Boldre
+contains much picturesque scenery, which will be still more highly
+appreciated when the stranger is informed that in the vicarage of this
+parish, and amidst the scenes which daily met his eye, the late Rev. and
+pious William Gilpin composed his popular work on Forest Scenery.[6]
+Beaulieu is interesting as having been the seat of a rich abbey, founded
+in 1204; the refectory of which has been long used as a parish
+church.[7] Mudiford possesses a fine level sandy beach, of wide extent,
+admirably adapted for sea-bathing, and commanding a variety of scenes
+and objects of great beauty. It was a favourite with George the Third
+and Queen Charlotte, when at Weymouth, who honoured Mr. Rose with a
+visit at his picturesque cottage on the beach.
+
+[5] The cliffs which extend towards Hurst Castle abound in marine
+fossils, shells, and petrifactions, from which many excellent
+collections have been made.
+
+[6] _Remarks on Forest Scenery and other Woodland Views, illustrated by
+the Scenery of New Forest, 1791._ The _Picturesque Tours_, by the same
+author, display a deep and correct feeling of the beauties of nature. At
+his death, in 1804, he appropriated a collection of his Sketches to the
+endowment of a school at Boldre.
+
+[7] The pulpit belonging to this ancient refectory is the most perfect
+and elegant relic of its kind in England.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: COWES.
+
+_HAMPSHIRE._]
+
+
+
+
+COWES.
+
+
+East and West Cowes, in the Isle of Wight, lie on opposite sides, and
+near the mouth of the river Medina, which rises on the southern side of
+the island, and after passing Newport, discharges itself into the
+strait--usually called the Solent Sea--that separates the Isle of Wight
+from the main land. The view of the harbour in the engraving is taken
+from West Cowes.
+
+In the reign of Henry VIII., two castles were built at the mouth of the
+river Medina to defend the passage to Newport. The old castle at West
+Cowes is still standing, but that of East Cowes has long been
+demolished. The castellated building seen in the engraving is a
+gentleman's seat, and is of modern erection, combining the interior
+comforts of modern civilization with the exterior grandeur of a baronial
+residence of the middle ages; but whether such a combination is lawful,
+admits of a doubt. Beheld from the sea, with its towers and battlements
+rising above the luxuriant plantations around it, has a fine and
+imposing effect. The grounds are extensive and well designed, possessing
+at once the scenery of a park and the cultivated beauty of a
+pleasure-ground.
+
+Cowes harbour is spacious and commodious; and the roads off the mouth of
+the river, which afford excellent anchorage, used frequently to be
+crowded, in time of war, with merchant-vessels waiting for convoy; and
+the towns derived great advantage from supplying ships, while thus
+detained, with provisions and small stores. The loss of a great part of
+this trade, on the termination of the war, has perhaps been more than
+compensated by Cowes having become the rendezvous of the Royal Yacht
+Squadron, which was first established under the name of the Yacht Club,
+in 1815. The number of vessels belonging to the squadron is about a
+hundred, and their aggregate tonnage is nearly 9,000 tons. The members
+have a club-house at Cowes; and at the annual regatta, which generally
+takes place about the last week in August, there are usually upwards of
+two hundred vessels assembled in the roads, to witness the sailing for
+the different prizes.
+
+The town of West Cowes is situated on the declivity, and at the base of
+a hill, on the summit of which stands the church. The streets are mostly
+narrow, and irregularly built; but recently the town and its vicinity
+have been much improved by the erection of several large houses and
+beautiful villas. There is a regular communication between Cowes and
+Southampton, by steam-boats, which, in summer, leave each place twice a
+day. East Cowes is a much smaller place than West Cowes; but, like the
+latter, it has been greatly enlarged within the last twenty years.
+
+In the vicinity of East Cowes is situated Osborne House, the marine
+residence of her Majesty and the royal family, for whose accommodation
+great additions and improvements have been made to the house and
+grounds, and what was formerly the seat of a private gentleman, has now
+been rendered a palace worthy of the royalty of England. The brief
+limits to which our notices are confined preclude us from entering upon
+a description of an edifice to which we could do but very imperfect
+justice, and which, after all, must derive its chief interest from the
+illustrious family who occupy its walls, and avail themselves of its
+peculiarly advantageous situation as the starting point for those marine
+excursions in which the Queen and her Consort so frequently indulge. The
+presence of royalty in its neighbourhood has rendered Cowes one of the
+most fashionable, as nature had previously made it one of the most
+beautiful, of the watering places on our southern coast, while the
+facilities afforded by the competing lines of the London and South
+Western, and London and South Coast Railways, render it at all times
+easy of access from the metropolis.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: SOUTHAMPTON.
+
+_HANTS._]
+
+
+
+
+SOUTHAMPTON.
+
+
+The town of Southampton is situated in the county of the same name, or,
+as it is more frequently called, Hampshire. It is built on a point of
+land at the confluence of the river Itchin with the estuary called the
+Anton, but which is more generally known as Southampton Water. The
+origin of the name of the town--which has unquestionably given its name
+to the county--does not appear to have been satisfactorily ascertained;
+some writers supposing it to be composed of the Saxon words, _ham_ and
+_tun_ or _ton_--which are nearly synonymous, and each equivalent to the
+modern English town--with the prefix _South_ to distinguish it more
+emphatically from Northampton. Others, however, consider that the name
+has been derived from the river Anton, on the banks of which the town is
+situated. "The town of _An_dover," says Sir Henry Englefield, "the
+village of Abbot's-_An_, the farm of North_anton_, and the hamlet of
+South_anton_, both near Overton, and not far from the eastern source of
+the river _Anton_ or rather _Ant_, are abundant proofs of the
+probability of this etymology."
+
+Southampton, as a chartered borough, may rank with the oldest in the
+kingdom. Madox, in his _Firma Burgi_, says that Henry II. "confirmed to
+his men, or burgesses of Southampton, their guild, and their liberties
+and customs by sea and land; he having regard to the great charges which
+the inhabitants thereof have been at in defending the sea-coasts." From
+a grant by the same king to the priory of St. Dionysius, it appears that
+there were then four churches in Southampton. While the English were in
+possession of Guienne, the merchants of Southampton carried on a
+considerable trade with Bayonne, Bordeaux, and other towns in the south
+of France.
+
+In 1338 the town was assaulted and burnt by a party of French or
+Genoese; and in the next year an act was passed for its better
+fortification. Whatever injury the town might have sustained from the
+attack of the French or Genoese, it would seem that its trade as a port
+was not diminished by it; for, nine years afterwards, Southampton
+supplied twenty-one ships and four hundred and seventy-six mariners to
+the great fleet of Edward III. In consequence of another attack by the
+French, in the reign of Richard II., the fortifications were further
+strengthened. In 1415 the army of Henry V., destined for the invasion
+of France, assembled at Southampton, where, previous to their
+embarkation, the Earl of Cambridge, Lord Scrope, and Sir Thomas Grey,
+were executed for high treason. The result of this memorable expedition
+was the victory of Agincourt. While the English continued to hold
+possession of part of France, the trade of Southampton appears to have
+been very flourishing, and the port was one of the principal in the
+south of England for the import of wine. Camden, writing about 1586,
+describes it as a town famous for the number and neatness of its
+buildings, the wealth of its inhabitants, and the resort of merchants;
+"but now," adds Camden's translator, writing about a hundred years
+afterwards, "it is not in the same flourishing condition as formerly it
+was; for having lost a great part of its trade, it has lost most of its
+inhabitants too; and the great houses of merchants are now dropping to
+the ground, and only show its ancient magnificence."[8]
+
+For the last fifty years the trade of Southampton, as a port, has been
+gradually reviving; and at present there is no port in the south of
+England in a more flourishing condition. The arrival and departure of
+the numerous large steamers belonging to the Oriental and Peninsular and
+the West India Mail Packet Companies, give it an air of activity and
+importance very different from the character given of it in the
+preceding paragraph. The splendid docks, and the facilities afforded by
+the railway, have induced the government of the day to select it as an
+eligible point for the embarkation of a large portion of the emigrants
+sent out with free or assisted passages to the Australian colonies.
+
+[8] Camden's _Britannia_, translated by Bishop Gibson, vol. i., p. 213.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: THE WALLS OF SOUTHAMPTON.]
+
+
+
+
+SOUTHAMPTON.
+
+THE WALLS.
+
+
+    "Of yore, SOUTHAMPTON, by thy briny flood,
+    Girt with his courtly train, great Canute stood;
+    And, turning from the disobedient wave,
+    A check severe to servile flattery gave."
+
+The accompanying View shows a portion of those ancient fortifications
+within which the town of Southampton was originally enclosed. The walls
+are in many places quite demolished; but in others they still present a
+venerable, though dilapidated appearance, with the remains of several
+towers at regular intervals, after the manner of fortified cities. The
+circuit of the walls is computed at nearly two miles. With regard to the
+precise date at which the walls were erected, there is no certain
+record. The north, east, and south walls bear every mark of uniform
+regularity in their structure: the gates of the town are apparently of
+the same date with the walls, and much resemble each other in the massy,
+flat form of their pointed arches, which rise at an angle from their
+piers, being struck from centres below the level of their spring--a mode
+of construction chiefly used in the reign of Edward the First. Yet the
+remains of semicircular towers, still visible on the Bargate, and which
+flanked its round arch, very much resembling the towers on the north and
+east walls, lead us to suspect that the wall, on the land side at least,
+is of higher antiquity than the time of the Edwards, and that the
+present gates were built later than the wall. The very singular position
+of the Water-gate, which retires thirty feet behind the eastern part of
+the south wall, and the awkward position of the South-gate, at the very
+angle of the wall, seem to indicate that these gates were not parts of
+the original design. From the south-west angle of the wall, quite to the
+Bridle-gate, which was close to the vallum of the Castle, the whole wall
+is a mass of irregular and almost inexplicable construction. It is
+conjectured that the side of the town, protected as it was by the
+Castle, and covered by the sea, was not at all, or but very slightly
+fortified, until the fatal experience of the sack of the town by the
+French proved that some further defence was necessary. The line of the
+town wall, south of the West-gate, is irregular in its construction; and
+the wall between the West and Bridle-gates bears evident marks of
+having been built in the most hasty manner, and with the greatest
+economy of materials. This wall, in its present form, Sir Henry
+Englefield supposes to have been built about the period when, according
+to the old historians, Richard the Second fortified the town, and built,
+or probably repaired and strengthened, the Castle, for it had evidently
+been built several centuries before his reign.
+
+At the accession of Henry the Eighth, the port of Southampton was much
+frequented by foreign merchant vessels, particularly those of Venice,
+which traded largely in wool and tin. But the exportation of wool being
+prohibited by the legislature, the Levant merchants gradually resorted
+to other ports, and, now deserted by her commercial friends, Southampton
+found her resources greatly impoverished. About the commencement of the
+last century, however, the tide flowed once more in her favour, and,
+continuing to increase, has at length placed her in a position of
+unprecedented prosperity. But to this happy result the erecting of new
+docks, an improved harbour, and, above all, communication with London by
+railway, have mainly contributed. The terminus to the latter, begun and
+completed in 1839, is a very pleasing piece of Italian composition, with
+a projecting rusticated arcade of five arches below, and the same number
+of pedimental windows to the upper floor. The facade, nearly seventy
+feet in length, is considerably extended in its lower part by
+screen-walls, which take a sweep from the building.
+
+The principal trade of Southampton is with Portugal and the Baltic, and
+with the islands of Guernsey and Jersey. Hemp, iron, and tallow are
+imported from Russia; tar and pitch from Sweden; and from Portugal, wine
+and fruit.
+
+The environs of Southampton are particularly interesting and
+agreeable--enlivened with elegant seats, romantic ruins, picturesque
+villages, and much beautiful scenery, which never fail to attract a
+great confluence of visitors during the fine season. Among these Netley
+Abbey is the grand attraction. The town itself is rich in vestiges of
+antiquity; and, in its modern character, presents all the _agremens_ to
+be met with in our most fashionable watering-places.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO PORTSMOUTH HARBOUR.]
+
+
+
+
+PORTSMOUTH.
+
+ENTRANCE TO THE HARBOUR.
+
+
+In the front of this view, and towards the right, a man-of-war cutter is
+seen running out of the harbour; and, from her heel to leeward, and the
+agitated state of the water, we may perceive that it is blowing a stiff
+breeze. Vessels of her class are chiefly employed in the coast-guard
+service and as admirals' tenders, or as packets on short voyages, or in
+communicating between one naval depot and another. In the distance, to
+leeward of her, the Dock-yard semaphore is perceived; and more to the
+right, but nearer to the eye of the spectator, is seen the Round Tower;
+from which, in former times, an immense chain used to extend to the
+Block-house at Gosport, on the opposite side of the channel, for the
+purpose of protecting the entrance to the harbour, in the event of its
+being assailed by the ships of an enemy. Towards the centre of the
+engraving a broad-side view is presented of the Port-Admiral's
+flag-ship, a first-rate, which, from the flags at her mast-head, appears
+to be making a signal; ahead of her, in the distance, the hulls are
+perceived of two ships of war, laid up in ordinary; and further to the
+left is seen part of the Block-house Fort, at Gosport, with a beacon, to
+direct vessels in making the harbour.
+
+Portsmouth harbour is one of the most secure and commodious in the
+kingdom; and from the depth of water, both within it and at its mouth,
+ships of the line can enter or depart at all times of the tide. From the
+narrowness of its entrance,--which, between the old Round Tower at
+Portsmouth and the Block-house Fort at Gosport, is not wider than the
+Thames at London-bridge,--it is protected from the swell of the sea;
+while it is sheltered from the violence of winds blowing off the land,
+by the range of hills to the northward. Immediately above its entrance
+the harbour begins to expand, and about a mile and a half above the old
+Round Tower it is nearly two miles in breadth. It then branches off into
+three principal creeks, or _leats_, as they are frequently called; one
+of which runs up to Fareham, another to Porchester Castle, and the third
+to Portsbridge. In these creeks most of the men-of-war in ordinary are
+moored. As those ships, when laid up, are each covered over with a large
+wooden roof, to protect them from the effects of the weather, they
+appear, when seen from Portsdown Hill, which commands an excellent view
+of the harbour, not so much like floating castles as like immense
+floating barns--ample garners, which would contain more corn than the
+swords and cutlasses of their former gallant crews, beat into
+reaping-hooks, will ever cut down!
+
+At Portsmouth the tide flows about seven hours and ebbs about five; and
+the velocity with which the ebb tide runs out effectually scours the
+channel at the mouth of the harbour, and prevents the accumulation of
+sand. It is high water in the harbour at half-past 11 o'clock at the
+full and change of the moon; and the rise of spring tides is about
+eighteen feet, and of neaps about twelve. In the months of March and
+April the specific gravity of the water in Portsmouth harbour becomes so
+much increased, that ships lying there are observed to float about two
+inches lighter than at other times of the year. The latitude of the
+Observatory in the Dock-yard is 50 deg. 48' 3" north; longitude 1 deg. 5' 59"
+west.
+
+Though Portsmouth does not appear to have been a place of much
+consideration as a naval station previous to the reign of Henry VIII.,
+who may be regarded as the first English King that established a
+permanent royal navy, it was yet undoubtedly a town of some consequence
+long before that time. In 1194, Richard I. granted a charter to the
+inhabitants, wherein, after declaring that he retains the town of
+"Portsmue" in his own hands, he establishes an annual fair to be held
+therein for fifteen days, to which all persons of England, Normandy,
+Poictou, Wales, Scotland, and all others, either foreigners or his own
+people, might freely resort, and enjoy the same privileges as at the
+fairs of Winchester, Hoiland, or elsewhere in his dominions. The
+burgesses of "Portsmue," as the place was then called, were also allowed
+to have a weekly market, with the same privileges and immunities as
+those of Winchester and Oxford; with freedom from all tolls of portage,
+passage, and stallage, and exemption from suit and service at hundred
+and county courts.[9] This charter was confirmed in 1201 by King John,
+and in 1230 by Henry II.; and in 1256 the latter monarch granted another
+charter, establishing a guild of merchants at Portsmouth. The privileges
+of the burgesses were at several different times confirmed by succeeding
+kings; and, in 1627, Charles I. granted them a charter, whereby a mayor
+and twelve aldermen were appointed for the civil government of the town.
+This charter, which was renewed by Charles II., has since been modified
+by the Municipal Reform Bill of 1835, which directs that the borough
+shall be divided into six wards, which shall elect a town council of
+forty-two members. In 1298 the borough was summoned to send two members
+to Parliament, a privilege which it continues to enjoy.
+
+[9] Anderson's History of Commerce, vol. i., p. 180., edit. 1787.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: RIGGING HULK AND FRIGATE, PORTSMOUTH.]
+
+
+
+
+PORTSMOUTH.
+
+RIGGING-HULK, WITH A NEW FRIGATE ALONGSIDE.
+
+
+In this engraving we have a view of a new frigate, with only her lower
+masts in, lying alongside of the _Topaze_ rigging-hulk. The latter
+vessel--which now presents so clumsy an appearance, from her bows and
+sides being sheathed with a stout doubling of timber, and from a wooden
+house being built over her stem--was formerly a French frigate, and,
+when she first came into our possession, she was much admired by
+nautical men for the beauty of her build. Further in the distance, to
+the right, is seen a first-rate lying off the Dockyard Quay, partly
+rigged; and, beyond her, are perceived the immense wooden roofs which
+cover the building-slips. The line of building to the right is the
+rigging-house, and the tower erected above it is the Dockyard Semaphore.
+On the extreme right, towards the front, is seen the forepart of a
+mooring-lighter, with one of the numerous spar-booms lying afloat near
+the Common Hard. The original picture was exhibited in the Gallery of
+the British Institution, where it excited general admiration.
+
+The great naval depot at Portsmouth is partially described in connection
+with other engravings in this work, and we have therefore thought it
+might be interesting to occupy our present space with some details
+respecting the peculiar mode in which one very important portion of the
+rigging is manufactured in this yard, and which forms a principal object
+of curiosity to all persons visiting it. We allude to the machinery for
+manufacturing blocks, invented by Mr. Brunel, the celebrated engineer.
+
+After the wood--generally elm--for the shell of the block is cut into
+proper sizes by circular-saws, its complete formation, including the pin
+and the sheave, is effected by means of several different machines, all
+contrived with the greatest mechanical skill, and put in motion by a
+steam-engine. The first process is that of the boring-machine, which, by
+means of a centre-bit, pierces a hole to receive the pin, and at the
+same time, according as the block is intended to be single or double,
+forms one or two similar holes, at right angles to the former, to
+receive the first stroke of the chisel which cuts out the space for the
+sheave. By the second, called the mortising-machine, this space is cut
+out by a chisel acting vertically, and making about a hundred and
+twenty strokes a minute, and under which the block is caused to move
+gradually, so that at each stroke a thin piece of the wood is cut away.
+After this the block is taken to a circular-saw, which cuts off the
+corners, and reduces it to the form of an octagon. The shaping-machine,
+to which it is next taken, consists of two equal and parallel wheels
+moving on the same axis, to which one of them is permanently fixed,
+while the other is moveable in the line of the axis, so that, by sliding
+it nearer to the former, or more apart, as may be required, the shells
+of blocks of all sizes may be fixed between their two parallel rims. Ten
+shells of the same size being firmly fixed at regular intervals between
+those rims, the wheels are put into motion with extreme velocity, and
+the shells are rounded by striking against a cutting instrument, which
+at the same time moves in such a manner as to give to each block its
+proper shape and curvature. When one half of the side has thus been
+finished, the motion of the wheels is reversed, and the other half
+finished in the same manner. When one side has been rounded, the shells
+are reversed, and the other side completed as above. The last process
+which the shell undergoes consists in scooping out the groove for the
+strap, or "strop," as the rope is called, which goes round the block.
+The shell is now completed, and the visitor is next shown the different
+processes in forming the sheave and the pin.
+
+The sheaves are generally made of lignum-vitae; and the first operation
+is performed by a circular-saw, which cuts the wood into pieces of a
+proper thickness. By a second machine the holes for the pins are bored,
+and they are formed into perfect circles by means of a crown-saw. The
+third, called the coaking-machine, is an admirable specimen of
+mechanical ingenuity. By its operation, a small cutter drills out round
+the pin-hole--to a certain depth from the flat surface of the
+sheave--three semicircular grooves, for the reception of the metal coak,
+or bush, which sustains the friction of the pin. So truly are those
+grooves formed, that the slight tap of a hammer is sufficient to fix the
+coak in its place. The fourth operation consists in casting the coaks.
+By a fifth, after being fitted in the grooves, holes are drilled in the
+coaks, for the reception of the pins which fasten them to the sheaves;
+and by a sixth the pins are rivetted. By the seventh operation, the
+central hole in the coak for the pin, on which the sheave turns, is
+drilled out. By the eighth, the groove for the rope is turned round the
+circumference of the sheave, and its sides polished. In the ninth, the
+iron pins, on which the sheaves revolve, are cast, turned, and polished;
+and on their being inserted, the block is complete and ready for use.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: VIEW FROM THE SALUTING PLATFORM, PORTSMOUTH.]
+
+
+
+
+PORTSMOUTH.
+
+VIEW FROM THE SALUTING PLATFORM.
+
+
+The correctness of this view will be immediately recognised by every
+person in the least acquainted with Portsmouth. The platform, from which
+it is taken, forms the grand promenade of the inhabitants, and is
+usually the first place visited by strangers, on account of the prospect
+which is thence obtained. Immediately in front of the engraving is seen
+the northern extremity of the platform, on which are two soldiers, who
+seem indulging themselves with a leisurely inhalation of the fresh
+breeze from the water, after having liberally expended a portion of
+their own breath in sounding their bugles at parade. Beyond the
+platform, the most conspicuous object is the Government Semaphore, with
+three flags displayed as a signal; and to the left, the landing-place
+called the King's Stairs. Beyond the old round tower is seen the
+flag-ship of the Port Admiral; and, between her and the gun-brig which
+is running in, a distant view is obtained of the Town Hall of Gosport.
+
+Portsmouth, one of our greatest naval depots, is situated near the
+south-western extremity of the island of Portsea, in the county of
+Hampshire, and is about seventy miles S.S.W. of London. Adjoining to it,
+on the northward, is the town of Portsea; and to the south-east, without
+the walls, lies the suburb of Southsea. The three places may be
+considered as forming one large town, under the general name of
+Portsmouth, the aggregate population of which is about 50,000. The
+population of Gosport, which lies to the westward of Portsmouth, on the
+opposite side of the harbour, is, with that of the adjacent hamlet of
+Stoke, about 12,000. The docks and naval storehouses are within the
+precinct of Portsea; the hospital and the victualling establishment are
+at Gosport; and the offices of the Port Admiral and the residence of the
+Lieutenant-Governor are at Portsmouth, within the lines of which are
+also the barracks for the accommodation of the garrison. Portsmouth is
+strongly fortified by a circuit of bastions and a moat, which enclose
+the town on the landside, and which are connected with a similar line,
+extending in a semi-circular form round the landside of Portsea. In the
+event of a siege, it would require 14,000 men to form an efficient
+garrison for the united towns. The situation of Portsmouth is low and
+marshy; and the peculiar smell which arises from the mud at low water,
+and from the moat, may be perceived at the distance of two or three
+miles, in approaching the town from the northward.
+
+The principal church at Portsmouth stands in St. Thomas'-street, and
+nearly in the centre of the town. It is dedicated to St. Thomas a
+Becket, and was erected between 1210 and 1220, by Peter de Rupibus,
+Bishop of Winchester. The transept and the chancel are the only parts
+which remain of the original structure, the nave and side-aisles having
+been rebuilt in 1692. At the same time the old tower, which formerly
+stood above the intersection of the transepts and the nave, was taken
+down, and the present one erected at the western entrance. It is
+surmounted with a cupola, and its height is about 120 feet.
+
+With the exception of the older parts of St. Thomas' Church, which
+afford one or two good specimens of the Gothic style, Portsmouth
+contains but little in the shape of architectural antiquities that is
+likely to attract the notice of the stranger. The building, above which
+the Semaphore is erected, near the northern extremity of the saluting
+platform, was, in former times, the residence of the governor of the
+town. Previous to the suppression of the monasteries and religious
+houses, it belonged to a Domus Dei, or hospital, which was founded in
+1238. A part of the church of this hospital is yet standing at a short
+distance to the south-east of the Semaphore, and near to the grand
+parade. It is now the garrison chapel; and against its walls are placed
+numerous monuments erected to the memory of officers, both naval and
+military, who have died in the service of their country.
+
+    "A tomb is theirs on every page,
+      An epitaph on every tongue;
+    The present hour, the future age,
+      For them bewail, to them belong.
+
+    For them the voice of festal mirth
+      Grows hushed,--their name the only sound;
+    While deep remembrance pours to worth
+      The goblet's tributary round.
+
+    A theme to crowds who knew them not,
+      Lamented by admiring foes;
+    Who would not share their glorious lot!
+      Who would not die the death they chose!"[10]
+
+[10] Lines by Lord Byron "On the Death of Sir Peter Parker."
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: GOSPORT, FLAG SHIP SALUTING.]
+
+
+
+
+GOSPORT.
+
+
+Gosport, of which our engraving represents a view, is a small, but
+important town, adjoining Portsmouth, from which it is separated by a
+wide channel, forming part of the extensive basin known as Portsmouth
+Harbour, and containing a large number of our "wooden walls;" some in a
+condition ready to put to sea at a few hours' notice, others lying in
+ordinary, as it is termed, that is, without rigging, sails, or other
+fittings requisite to render them complete and efficient for service,
+but which are speedily provided when required. Portsmouth, Gosport, and
+the neighbouring towns--including Portsea and Landport--form one
+extensive fortified position, protected at every point from the attacks
+of an enemy; they are enclosed by broad earthworks, along the extent of
+which are mounted heavy guns, commanding the various drawbridges which
+cross the moat surrounding the works. At a short distance from the town
+is a large range of barracks for the marines, capable of accommodating
+upwards of a thousand men--a portion of the building, including the
+house of the commandant, has but recently been completed. Near this is a
+new prison, devoted entirely to military occupation; it is a substantial
+building of red brick, and well adapted for the accommodation of its
+inmates consistent with its character as a penal establishment.
+
+Close to the harbour, and within the fortifications, is an immense pile
+of imposing appearance, called the Clarence Victualling-yard; the most
+interesting feature of which is, the admirable but simple
+steam-machinery employed in making biscuits for the navy. In the
+precincts of this immense depository are also included a cooperage,
+brewhouse, and slaughterhouse, which supply the navy with the stores
+requisite for their various destinations, including wines and spirits,
+of which a large stock is constantly kept here. The quay at which her
+Majesty embarks for her private residence, Osborne House, in the Isle of
+Wight, is situated in this yard, which is connected with the main line
+of the South-Western Railway, by a small branch running from the
+terminus, devoted solely to the use of her Majesty and the Lords of the
+Admiralty. There are two churches in the town, St. Mathew's, near the
+entrance to the Clarence-yard, and Trinity; the former consists entirely
+of free sittings, the latter is a chapel of ease to the parish church,
+situated at Alverstoke, a small village, at a distance of little more
+than a mile from the town. There are also a Catholic chapel, two
+Wesleyan chapels, and two Congregational chapels in the town.
+
+Of late years the neighbourhood of Gosport has much improved; many
+handsome and commodious villas, and other residences, having been
+erected at various times. Anglesea, which adjoins Alverstoke, is quite a
+new neighbourhood, and has but recently come into existence, consisting
+principally of residences for the gentry during the summer months. The
+town of Ryde, in the Isle of Wight, is situated opposite to this spot,
+and between them lies the Solent, which at times is enlivened by the
+appearance of some ships of war lying at anchor, and frequently of large
+fleets of merchant ships detained here from stress of weather, or
+waiting a favourable wind to convey them to their respective
+destinations. At the mouth of the harbour, on the Gosport side, is
+situated Blockhouse Fort, opposite to a similar one on the Portsmouth
+side, embrasured with heavy guns for protecting the entrance to the
+harbour, which is approached only by a circuitous channel, commanded on
+the one side by the guns of Southsea Castle, and on the other by those
+of Fort Monckton, at a short distance from which has recently been
+erected another fort, to protect the entrance to the Southampton Water.
+Adjoining Blockhouse Fort are barracks for the Royal Artillery, and at
+Fort Monckton, barracks for infantry. Near the latter is Haslar
+Hospital, devoted to the reception of sick members of the navy and
+marines; it is a handsome quadrangular building of red brick, and
+affords accommodation for a large number of patients; within its walls
+are included a church, and a Museum of Natural History, which is well
+supplied with specimens, and to which additions are being continually
+made by the officers and gentlemen connected with the service. At the
+foot of the High-street, Gosport, is the landing-place for passengers by
+the steam ferry, or floating bridge, as it is called, which plies
+between Gosport and Portsmouth every half-hour, and forms the only means
+of communication for carriages and vehicles of all kinds. In addition to
+the steam ferry is a staff of watermen, busily plying their calling
+during the absence of the bridge, and securing the stray passengers that
+may prefer their mode of transport, or have arrived too late for the
+other conveyance. During certain states of the weather, the danger and
+difficulty of managing their boats entitle the watermen to increased
+fares, which are indicated by certain coloured flags hoisted
+conspicuously over the town hall, near the beach, and regulated by a
+person appointed by the licensing magistrates. The climate of this part
+is healthy, and well adapted for persons with weak lungs, or affections
+to which a cold, keen, air would be unfavourable.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: MEN OF WAR AT SPITHEAD.]
+
+
+
+
+MEN-OF-WAR AT SPITHEAD.
+
+
+In this Engraving (a vignette) is presented a stern-view of a
+seventy-four, with her guess-warp booms[11] out, moored at Spithead. To
+the right is a victualling hoy, dropping alongside of the seventy-four;
+and in the distance is seen a first-rate. The time is evening, which
+invests the whole scene with its calm. We may conclude that the day has
+been fine, as both ships seem to have availed themselves of the
+opportunity thus afforded of "drying hammocks;" they are seen suspended
+from their yards and between their masts.
+
+The roadstead of Spithead, which is sufficiently large to afford
+convenient anchorage for nearly all the ships of the British navy, lies
+between Portsmouth and the Isle of Wight; and the usual place in which
+ships of war ride is about three miles distant from Portsmouth harbour.
+It derives its name from the _Spit_, or end of a sand bank, extending
+from the western shore of the estuary towards Southsea Castle, about a
+mile below Portsmouth. The channel for the harbour, from Spithead, is
+comparatively narrow, and is commanded by the batteries at Southsea
+Castle. To the westward of Spithead is the sand called the Motherbank,
+on the edge of which merchantmen generally anchor; and to the
+north-eastward are St. Helen's roads, a frequent rendezvous as well for
+ships of war as for vessels in the merchant service. All these
+roadsteads are protected from southerly winds by the high land of the
+Isle of Wight.
+
+Within the last few years considerable interest has been excited by the
+attempts which have been made to raise the guns, and various other
+articles, belonging to the Royal George, which sank at Spithead on 29th
+August, 1782. This ship carried 108 guns, and was considered one of the
+finest in the navy, had just returned from sea, and, as she had made
+more water than usual for some time before, it was at first intended
+that she should go into dock. The surveying officers, however, having
+discovered that the leak was not very far below the water-line, it was
+resolved to repair the defect, with a view to saving time, by giving the
+ship a heel as she lay at her moorings at Spithead. On subsequent
+examination, it was found that a pipe which supplied the water for
+washing the decks required to be replaced, and, as it lay considerably
+below the water-line, it became necessary to give her a greater heel
+than had been at first contemplated. For the purpose of effecting this,
+some of her guns and part of her ballast were removed to the opposite
+side. As the ship lay thus considerably inclined on her side, she, from
+some cause that has not been clearly ascertained, gave an additional
+heel, and the water rushing in through her lower-deck ports, which had
+been carelessly left open, she almost instantly filled and sank,
+carrying down with her a victualling hoy that was lying alongside. At
+the time of the accident there were nearly twelve hundred persons on
+board, of which number about nine hundred, including two hundred and
+fifty women, were drowned. Among the sufferers were Admiral Kempenfelt
+and several of the officers. About three hundred persons, chiefly
+belonging to the ship's crew, were saved. Admiral Sir P. Durham, at that
+time one of the lieutenants of the Royal George, was on board when the
+accident happened, and saved himself by swimming to the shore.
+
+Mr. Kingstone, of the Portsmouth dockyard, who went down to the wreck in
+a diving-bell in 1817, gives the following account of its appearance at
+that time:--"The quarter-deck, forecastle, and roundhead, with the
+larboard topside as low down as the range of the upper deck, are
+entirely gone. The oak-strakes and midships of the flat of the upper
+deck are much decayed by worms in several places so as to show the beams
+and framing beneath. The whole of the fir appears as sound as when first
+laid. The deck is much twisted, from the ship's falling so much fore and
+aft. The wreck has a beautiful appearance when viewed about a fathom
+above the deck, being covered with small weeds, interspersed with
+shells, star-fish, and a species of polypus, lying on a thin, greasy,
+grey sediment. All below the deck is a perfect solid of fine black mud;
+and, when suspended over the larboard side, she appears a rude mass of
+timber lying in all directions."
+
+During the summer of 1853, Spithead was the scene of a grand marine
+review and sham fight. Her Majesty and Prince Albert were present, with
+a numerous suite of naval officers. The nautical skill displayed on the
+occasion received the highest encomiums from those best qualified to
+judge of its value; and the merit of the screw propeller, as attached to
+vessels of war, was strikingly manifested.
+
+[11] The guess-warp booms are the spars suspended at right angles from a
+ship's side, to which the boats are made fast when she is moored.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: BRIGHTON.
+
+_SUSSEX._]
+
+
+
+
+BRIGHTON.
+
+
+Brighton is in the county of Sussex, and lies about fifty-two miles
+south of London. The old name of the town was Brighthelmstone, which
+some antiquaries suppose to have been derived from Brighthelm, a Saxon
+bishop; while others suppose that it may be derived from the Saxon
+_beorht_, _briht_, _berht_, and _byrt_, signifying _bright_; _heal_, a
+light-house or watch-tower, a corner or point of a wedge, a hall; and
+the word _tun_, or _ton_, signifying a town.
+
+The name, spelled Bristelmstune, occurs in Doomsday-book. Three manors
+are described under this name, and they all appear to have been formerly
+in the possession of Earl Godwin, the father of King Harold. Brighton,
+or Brighthelmstone, until it began to be frequented as a watering-place,
+about the middle of the last century, is seldom noticed by historians;
+and until that period it never appears to have risen above the condition
+of a small fishing town. In 1313, John de Warren, then lord of the
+manor, obtained a charter to have a market at Brighthelmstone every
+Thursday; and in 1513 the place was pillaged by the French. In the reign
+of Henry VIII. a block-house was erected at Brighton; and this defence
+appears to have been either rebuilt or further strengthened in 1558.
+
+About 1750, Brighton, which was then recovering from the depressed state
+in which it had been for upwards of a century, began to be visited
+during the summer as a bathing-place. In 1782, the Duke of Cumberland,
+brother to George III., when residing at Brighton, received a visit from
+the Prince of Wales, afterwards George IV., and his royal highness was
+so much pleased with the place, that he determined to build for himself
+a marine residence there. The Pavilion was accordingly commenced in
+1784; but from the alterations and additions which the royal owner was
+almost constantly making, it would be difficult to say when it was
+finished. On the decease of George IV., the Pavilion became the property
+of his successor, William IV., from whom it has descended to her present
+Majesty, who, disapproving of it as a marine residence, it was allowed
+to fall into decay, and was ultimately purchased from the crown by the
+corporation for upwards of L50,000. It is now open to the public for a
+small fee, and the larger rooms are occasionally used for balls,
+concerts, and public meetings. The grounds are at all times available as
+promenades; and, whatever the architect may say of its merits, there can
+be no doubt that the edifice adds one to the many attractions of
+Brighton, and forms a favourite lounge for the visitors in weather which
+will not permit of recreation in the open air.
+
+The Chain Pier is within a few minutes' walk of the Pavilion: it is
+constructed upon the suspension principle; the chains are supported by
+four pairs of towers, placed at a distance of nearly two hundred feet
+apart. It terminates in a circular platform furnished with an awning and
+seats, for the convenience of those who are desirous of inhaling the
+invigorating breeze from so advantageous a position; commanding, as it
+does, not only a prospect of the entire bay, but also an excellent view
+of the town. The expense of its erection was about L30,000; but it has,
+on several occasions, suffered from tempests, to which its great length
+and exposed position render it at all times peculiarly liable, yet the
+public spirit and liberality of the inhabitants have on each occasion
+speedily repaired the damage.
+
+There is, perhaps, not another watering-place in the kingdom which can
+exhibit so imposing a front to the ocean. For an extent of nearly three
+miles Brighton displays a continuous line of handsome buildings,
+interspersed with squares, crescents, and terraces--all commanding views
+of the sea. The district of Kemp Town, at the eastern extremity of this
+line, deserves especial notice. Many of its mansions comprise all the
+luxuries and conveniences of the metropolis, with the sanitary
+advantages of marine villas; leaving nothing to be desired by the most
+fastidious taste, and affording accommodation for large establishments
+conducted upon a scale befitting the highest ranks of our aristocracy.
+
+The proximity of Brighton to London, the short time in which the transit
+between the towns is accomplished--less than two hours, and the numerous
+trains which run during the day, give it at all times a decided
+advantage over other sea-bathing towns on the south coast, and make a
+popular excursion for those whom business or taste confines to the
+capital, and who cannot enjoy a lengthened stay at the coast.
+
+The high grounds on the land side of Brighton afford unusual facilities
+for horse and carriage drives, and thus agreeably diversify the
+amusements of the day--an opportunity of which the inhabitants and
+visitors freely avail themselves. Of the bathing accommodations we have
+left ourselves no room to speak; but we may say they are of the highest
+character, replete with every convenience, and on a scale becoming a
+town of sixty thousand permanent residents.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: HASTINGS.]
+
+
+
+
+HASTINGS.
+
+
+The town of Hastings is situated on the coast of Sussex, about
+sixty-four miles S.S.E. of London. It has been supposed that the place
+was so called from Hastings, a Danish pirate, "who, where he landed for
+booty, built sometimes little fortresses; as we read, in Asserius
+Menevensis, of Beamflote Castle built by him in Essex, and of others at
+Appledore and Middleton in Kent"[12]. This conjecture, however, does not
+appear to be well founded; for there can be little doubt of the place
+having been called Hastings about the year 780, in the reign of King
+Offa, whereas Hastings, the pirate, did not invade England till about
+880, in the reign of Alfred the Great. "Some there are," says Camden,
+"who ridiculously derive the name from the English word _haste_;
+because, as Matthew Paris writes, 'apud Hastings ligneum _agiliter_
+castrum statuit Gulielmus Conquestor'--at Hastings William the Conqueror
+_hastily_ set up a fortress of timber." Truly, as old Fuller might have
+said, there has been more _haste_ than speed in the endeavour to provide
+this place with a godfather.
+
+It is said that the old Saxon town of Hastings stood considerably to the
+southward of the present one, and that it was destroyed by the
+incursions of the sea previous to the Conquest. The town, however, would
+appear to have been in a short time rebuilt; for William the Conqueror,
+soon after landing at Pevensey, marched to Hastings, from whence he
+advanced about eight miles into the country, where he encountered the
+English army under Harold, at the place since called Battle, in
+commemoration of the event.
+
+Hastings, though not the oldest, is considered to hold the first rank
+among the ancient maritime boroughs called the Cinque Ports, which were
+originally instituted for the defence of the coast, and endowed with
+special privileges on condition of supplying a certain number of ships
+and mariners for that purpose. Dover, Sandwich, and Romney are
+considered the oldest of the Cinque Ports, as they are the only ones
+which are mentioned in Domesday as privileged ports. Hastings and Hythe
+are supposed to have been added by William the Conqueror; and the number
+being thus increased to _five_, occasioned the community to be called
+the _Cinque_ Ports. Although Winchelsea and Rye, which had previously
+been members of Hastings, were constituted principal ports at some
+period between the Conquest and the reign of King John, the name of
+_Cinque_ Ports still continued to be given to the community. The Cinque
+Ports are governed by a lord warden, who is also governor of Dover
+Castle. A certain number of persons (called Barons) deputed from the
+Cinque Ports, have the privilege of supporting the canopies above the
+king and queen at coronations.
+
+There was formerly a pier at Hastings, at which vessels could unload;
+but it was destroyed in a violent storm, about the commencement of the
+reign of Queen Elizabeth, and never rebuilt. From the remains of this
+pier, which are still to be seen at low water, it appears to have run
+out in a south-eastern direction from the centre of the Marine Parade,
+below where the fort now stands. The fort, in a great measure, answers
+the purpose of a breakwater in resisting the waves, which in high tides,
+accompanied with a strong wind from the seaward, would otherwise be
+likely to do serious damage to the lower part of the town.
+
+The trade of Hastings is very inconsiderable; its imports being chiefly
+coals for the consumption of the town, and its exports principally oak
+timber and plank, for the purposes of ship-building. The great supports
+of the town are the numerous visitors who take lodgings there during the
+bathing season, and the fishery, which gives employment to about 500
+persons. What may now be considered the old town of Hastings is situated
+in a hollow between two hills, the East and the Castle-hill, and
+consists chiefly of two streets, which run nearly parallel to each
+other, and are called High-street and All-Saints-street. The new town of
+Hastings, which has been almost wholly erected within the last thirty
+years, lies to the south and westward of the Castle-hill, so called from
+the ruins of the old castle on its top. There are two old churches at
+Hastings, St. Clement's and All-Saints', and a modern chapel, St.
+Mary's, in Pelham-crescent, immediately under the Castle-hill. From the
+accommodation which it affords to visitors, and the beauty and interest
+of the walks and rides in its vicinity, Hastings is one of the most
+agreeable watering-places on the southern coast of England.
+
+[12] Camden's Britannia, Bishop Gibson's Translation.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: HASTINGS.]
+
+
+
+
+HASTINGS.
+
+FROM THE BEACH.
+
+
+We have elsewhere remarked upon the origin and early history of this
+fashionable watering-place, and at the same time traced its connexion
+with those once important towns, the Cinque Ports: on the present
+occasion we propose to occupy our space with its modern features, and to
+include a brief notice of its more aristocratic neighbour, St. Leonards.
+The older streets, that lie close under the hill and stretch up towards
+London, are narrow and inconvenient; they are mostly occupied as shops,
+but new ranges of smart and commodious dwelling-houses have been built
+on every hand. For many years the visiters to Hastings had to submit to
+the inconveniences attendant upon a residence in a small fishing-town;
+but these have now been removed, and hotels and private lodging-houses,
+provided with all the luxuries of modern requirement, are to be found in
+abundance. The rapidity with which Hastings can be reached from the
+metropolis, while it has greatly increased the number of its visiters,
+has, perhaps, robbed it of part of that exclusiveness for which it was
+formerly distinguished. It is now the summer resort of a large and
+constantly-increasing number of the middle class, who derive a new stock
+of health from its genial breezes and bracing waves, while their
+expenditure forms the support of the large and constantly-increasing
+resident population.
+
+Of St. Leonards, we may remark that it is quite a creature of our own
+day. Mr. Burton, the architect of a large part of the buildings about
+the Regent's-park, commenced the formation of a new town here in 1828.
+His plan was conceived on a bold scale, and was very fairly carried into
+execution. A noble esplanade extends for more than half a mile along the
+beach. A handsome range of buildings, called the Marina, some five
+hundred feet in extent, stretches along the sea-front of the town, with
+a covered colonnade of the same length. Other terraces and scattered
+villas, bearing in character a considerable resemblance to those in the
+Regent's-park, were also erected, together with a church,
+assembly-rooms, bath-houses, and hotels of large size and the most
+complete arrangements. There are also pleasure-grounds and other
+contrivances for the amusement or comfort of visiters. St. Leonards has
+been able to boast of a large array of noble and distinguished visiters
+from its earliest infancy. Her present Majesty heads the list, she
+having, when Princess Victoria, resided with her mother, in 1834, at the
+western end of the Marina. The Queen Dowager is also among the names it
+delights to remember. The house in which she lived is now called
+Adelaide House. Among its literary visitants Campbell has perhaps the
+first place, he having left a permanent record of his residence at it in
+the _Lines on the View from St. Leonards_:--
+
+    "Hail to thy face and odours, glorious Sea!
+    'Twere thanklessness in me to bless thee not,
+    Great, beauteous being! in whose breath and smile
+    My heart beats calmer, and my very mind
+    Inhales salubrious thoughts. How welcomer
+    Thy murmurs than the murmurs of the world!
+    Though like the world thou fluctuatest, thy din
+    To me is peace, thy restlessness repose.
+    Ev'n gladly I exchange yon spring-green lanes,
+    With all the darling field-flowers in their prime,
+    And gardens haunted by the nightingale's
+    Long trills and gushing ecstacies of song,
+    For these wild headlands and the sea-mew's clang.
+
+    "With thee beneath my windows, pleasant Sea!
+    I long not to o'erlook earth's fairest glades
+    And green savannahs--Earth has not a plain
+    So boundless or so beautiful as thine."
+
+St. Leonards was originally a mile and a half distant from Hastings; but
+the old town has stretched out its arms to its youthful progeny. The
+Grand Parade was the first step towards uniting them; and now other
+places have sprung up, and they are fairly joined together. The
+esplanade now reaches, with hardly an interruption, from the Marine
+Parade at Hastings to the Marina at St. Leonards, and forms probably the
+finest walk of the kind in the kingdom.
+
+The vicinity of Hastings is replete with objects of interest, and
+amongst them we may mention Bulverhythe, a short distance from St.
+Leonards, generally assigned as the landing-place of William of
+Normandy. East Hill, or Camp Hill, was probably the site chosen for his
+first encampment, whence, after a brief stay, he marched to meet the
+English troops under Harold. Of the events of that day our readers are
+already well informed; but should any of them feel disposed to spend a
+day in visiting the old town of Battle, they will find their labour well
+repaid by an inspection of the ruins of Battle Abbey; though we must
+caution them against the supposition that the existing remains are those
+of the edifice erected by the Conqueror in commemoration of his victory:
+they are of a later date, yet still deserving of a better fate than
+seems to have fallen to their share.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: RYE
+
+(Sussex)]
+
+
+
+
+RYE,
+
+SUSSEX.
+
+
+To the Cinque Ports, of which Rye and Winchilsea are appendages, we have
+already adverted in several articles of this work. As places where
+strength and vigilance were particularly necessary, and from which ships
+might put to sea in cases of sudden emergency, these ports were
+entitled, in former times, to the special attention of government, and
+performed great and important services to the country. Their privileges
+are numerous, and they are within the jurisdiction of the Constable of
+Dover Castle, Warden of the Cinque Ports.
+
+Until the reign of Henry VIII., the crown seems to have had no permanent
+navy, but to have depended almost entirely on the Cinque Ports for the
+protection of our maritime frontier; and hence the origin of those
+privileges conferred upon them by successive sovereigns, in
+acknowledgment of services rendered to the State. Among these are the
+exemption from toll and harbour-dues, still recognised at several ports,
+and various other rights of minor consideration. In ancient times there
+were several courts of jurisdiction, extending over all the ports and
+their members, and intended either as courts of appeal, for persons who
+considered themselves aggrieved by any of the separate and local
+tribunals, or for regulating the grand affairs of the whole association;
+but these may now be considered as obsolete--their functions have
+dwindled to mere matters of form.
+
+Rye is a town and harbour of great antiquity, near the borders of the
+Kentish marshes. It occupies the declivity of a hill, on a peninsula,
+bounded on the south and west by the sea, and on the east by the river
+Rother. The town is composed of several well-formed and regularly built
+streets, and lighted with gas; and from various points the eye wanders
+over the channel and adjacent country, where rural and marine scenery
+conspire to form some of the most delightful views on the coast of
+England. The ancient history of Rye, during the height of its prosperity
+as a sea-port, abounds in incidents of a martial and romantic interest,
+as transmitted to us by Froissart and the ancient chroniclers of those
+times when the star of chivalry was still dominant in the kingdoms of
+Europe.
+
+In the reign of Richard II., and again in that of Henry VI., Rye was
+burnt by the French, when the early records of the town are supposed to
+have been consumed; for, with the exception of a few fragments, all the
+old writings and charters which have been discovered are subsequent to
+that calamity. In the same conflagration, the old church is supposed to
+have fallen a sacrifice, and to have been rebuilt in its present form--a
+capacious cruciform structure with a central tower--but in a different
+situation, the original having stood on the spot, near Ypres tower,
+called the Old Church-yard. This tower, now appropriated to the purposes
+of a gaol, has recently undergone several alterations and improvements.
+
+The old harbour of Rye, which in former days presented so stirring a
+scene of commercial activity, has dwindled like that of Sandwich,
+Winchilsea, and many of its prosperous contemporaries, into comparative
+insignificance. But in accounting for this melancholy fact, we must look
+to natural causes, rather than to the decay of native enterprise. The
+present harbour is situated on the east side of the town; and on the
+north--a mile and a half from the sea entrance--vessels of two hundred
+tons burden can still lade and unlade close to the quay. Under spirited
+management, and with proper funds for such an enterprise, it is believed
+that it might still be made to accommodate vessels of every draught and
+tonnage. By means of the three rivers, Rother, Tillingham, and Brede,
+which traverse the country, great facilities are afforded to commercial
+intercourse. Coal, corn, hops, bark, wood, and timber, constitute the
+chief articles of trade; and several sloops are constantly employed in
+conveying chalk from the cliffs at Eastbourne, for the burning of lime.
+During the season, the herring and mackarel fisheries employ a good many
+hands, the produce of which is chiefly sent to the London market.
+
+The Borough of Rye has exercised the elective franchise from the
+earliest date of parliamentary representation. Previous to the enactment
+of the Reform Bill, it returned two members; but by that great public
+measure the town and its electoral district were limited to one
+representative. The government of the town is vested in a mayor, four
+aldermen, and twelve councillors. The mayor is coroner for the borough
+and liberty, and also a justice of the peace. Courts of quarter sessions
+are held before a recorder, nominated by the crown; and a commission of
+the peace has been conferred on four gentlemen, residents of the
+borough, who meet in petty session twice a week in the Court-hall. The
+church-living, a discharged vicarage, is in the gift of the Earl of
+Burlington. The charitable institutions consist of a Free Grammar
+School, a British School, an almshouse, and some minor bequests for
+benevolent purposes. Corn and provision-markets are held twice a week--a
+cattle-market every fortnight--and annual fairs on Whitmonday and the
+tenth of August.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: FOLKSTONE.
+
+_KENT._]
+
+
+
+
+FOLKSTONE.
+
+
+Folkstone is in the county of Kent, and lies about seventy-two miles
+south-east of London, and seven west-south-west of Dover. In the
+beautiful vignette, from a drawing by Boyes, the view is taken from the
+eastward, and represents the characteristics of Folkstone of the past
+rather than the present. Few ports in her Majesty's dominions have risen
+into commercial eminence so rapidly as the subject of our present
+Engraving. For the following description we are principally indebted to
+the recently published work of Mr. G. Measom. He remarks: "The town is
+very irregularly built in its lower and older part, having steep and
+narrow streets, which nevertheless are clean and well paved, and the
+whole is now lighted with gas. The higher portion, however, going up to
+the cliffs, is much more regular, and comprises several pretty terraces
+with lodging-houses for summer visitors, who may here enjoy all the
+benefits of a fine, bracing air, and sea-bathing, combined with that
+rural retirement so desirable in the country, and which cannot be found
+either at Dover, Ramsgate, or other bathing towns on this coast. The
+cliffs, too, command the most delightful views, south-west, over the
+wide level of Romney Marsh, as far as Beachy Head, while seaward stands
+the town and harbour at our feet, beyond which are the Straits of Dover,
+skirted in the horizon by the coast of France. Folkstone has two
+churches--one of modern erection in the upper town--and four or five places
+of worship for Dissenters, all of which have attached Sunday-schools;
+besides which there are several daily subscription-schools, and a good
+grammar-school. It has also a town-hall and market-house, a
+custom-house, a mechanics' institute, dispensary, several libraries,
+reading-rooms, &c., and four or five good inns.
+
+"The port of Folkstone, not less than the town, has been vastly improved
+by the South-Eastern Railway Company. Even before they acquired
+possession of it in 1845, efforts had been made by the construction of
+an arm at the end of the pier to arrest the progress of shingle, which
+here, as at Dover, constantly choked and filled up the harbour. The
+first step adopted by the company was the carrying out from the
+south-west end of the arm of the pier of a groyne formed with piles, and
+which gradually led to the formation of a breakwater, about fifty feet
+broad at top, forming an obtuse angle with the old arm of the pier. This
+at once stopped the further accumulation of shingle within the harbour,
+which was then at vast expense cleared of the gravel and mud long
+collected therein, and it has since remained clear. This breakwater,
+moreover, has been greatly improved by constructions of masonry intended
+to bind the work together; and at the same time great additions and
+improvements have been made both in the foundations and superstructures
+of the original piers. In fact, Folkstone Harbour, which was before a
+slough of gravel and mud, almost inaccessible except at half-spring or
+spring tides, has, owing to these improvements, become 'a harbour having
+twenty feet of water considerably within the entrance, and is now
+capable of being entered by steamers three hours and a half after high
+water; while during neap tides there are occasionally four or five feet
+of water in the entrance at low water, and immediately outside,
+sufficient for a steamer to take her passengers from the pier-head and
+work herself clearly off.' (See _Mr. Swan's Report_.) Another point of
+importance in connexion with this harbour, is the great ease with which
+it can be taken in bad weather, to which the captains of steamers bear
+almost individual testimony; and to this, also, we may add the superior
+ease with which vessels may be swung, and the facility of backing out
+without turning round, so as to save time in landing passengers and
+again leaving port. On the whole, this harbour, as now improved, is one
+of the finest monuments of engineering skill in this country, and
+confers infinite honour on Peter W. Barlow, Esq., the company's
+engineer, and the Directors, who so spiritedly backed the undertaking.
+It scarcely need be added, that the first result of these improvements
+was to make Folkstone suited for a regular packet station, and now for
+some years this port has acquired at least one-half of the traffic
+across the Straits, which was formerly wholly monopolised by the
+neighbouring port of Dover; nor, as the sea voyage is shorter, and the
+steamers are vastly superior, can there be any doubt that ere long it
+will become the chosen route of all the intelligent travelling public.
+Indeed, the constantly and rapidly increasing customs and harbour dues
+of the port, year by year, furnish of themselves a sufficient proof that
+Folkstone has acquired a vigour and vitality which it only requires
+perseverance in the inhabitants to maintain; nor can this increase in
+the prosperity of the town be truly ascribed to any other cause than the
+spirited conduct of the company, who have made it one of their most
+important maritime termini. The census, moreover, speaks on this subject
+with an eloquence that is quite unanswerable, for in 1831 Folkstone had
+only 2,300 inhabitants, and in 1841 but 2,900, whereas in 1851 it had
+upwards of 7,500; showing an increase of about 140 per cent. Facts like
+these speak more than all praise!"[13]
+
+[13] G. Measom's _Illustrated Guide to the South-Eastern Railway_.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: DOVER.
+
+(from the Ramsgate Road.)]
+
+
+
+
+DOVER,
+
+FROM THE RAMSGATE ROAD.
+
+
+The most favourable point of view for an artist who is desirous of
+obtaining a general view of Dover, is certainly that portion of the
+Ramsgate Road of which Mr. Bartlett has availed himself on the present
+occasion. Placed at a sufficient elevation to enable him to embrace a
+wide extent of land and water, he is still sufficiently near the town to
+secure that distinctness of detail which adds so much to the effect of a
+landscape. One of the chief points of attraction in Dover must always be
+the Castle, but as we shall have another opportunity of referring to
+that structure, in connection with our view of Dover from the Beach, we
+purpose now to devote our attention to the town itself.
+
+At the period of the Conquest, Dover was unquestionably a place of
+considerable note. It is mentioned, with Sandwich and Romney, in the
+Domesday-book, as a privileged port; and is said to have enjoyed, from
+an earlier period, sundry privileges and immunities in common with those
+two towns, on consideration of supplying a certain number of ships and
+mariners for the defence of the adjacent coast. In the reign of King
+John, Dover received a charter as one of the Cinque Ports; and in
+several succeeding reigns, its shipping and mariners were frequently
+employed in the fleets assembled to convey English armies to France. As
+it was considered the key of England, it was surrounded with walls and
+strongly fortified; and as it was the principal port in the kingdom for
+persons taking shipping in proceeding to France, acts were passed in the
+reign of Edward III. and Richard II., appointing the rate of passage.
+Henry VIII. expended large sums in the improvement of the harbour, the
+entrance of which had been much choked up by shingle washed in by the
+sea. A pier was commenced, and carried on at a great expense, but he
+died before it was completed; and in the reign of his successor, the
+work appears to have been almost wholly suspended. In the reign of
+Elizabeth, further attempts were made to improve the harbour; and in
+1606 an act was passed appointing eleven commissioners, who were
+empowered to receive certain rates, and employ the money in repairing
+the pier and improving the harbour. In succeeding times various plans
+have been tried to prevent the increase of the bar, which, after a gale
+of wind from the seaward, is sometimes increased so much, as to prevent
+all vessels, except those that are of very light draught of water, from
+entering or leaving the port. It is high water at Dover pier at sixteen
+minutes past eleven on the full and change of the moon; and the rise of
+the water at spring-tides is about twenty feet. Dover is much frequented
+in summer as a watering-place; and for the convenience which it affords,
+and the beautiful and interesting scenery in its neighbourhood, it is
+surpassed by no other town on the coast.
+
+At a short distance from the entrance to Dover Castle is mounted the
+long brass gun, usually called Queen Elizabeth's pocket-pistol, which
+was presented to her Majesty by the United Provinces. It is twenty-four
+feet long; but is so much "honey-combed," that, were it fired, it would
+be certain to burst. Popular tradition says that it contains an
+inscription to this effect:--
+
+    "Sponge me well, and keep me clean,
+    And I'll throw a ball to Calais green."
+
+There is, indeed, an inscription on it in the Dutch language, but though
+it commemorates the destructive power of this long piece of ordnance, it
+says nothing which implies that its range was so extraordinary. The
+distance from Dover Castle to the church of Notre-Dame, at Calais, is
+rather more than twenty-six miles. This gun was cast at Utrecht in 1544,
+by James Tolkys, and the verses inscribed on its breech have been
+translated as follows:--
+
+    "O'er hill and dale I throw my ball;
+    Breaker, my name, of mound and wall."
+
+About a mile to the southward of the town is the celebrated cliff which
+is supposed to have been described by Shakspeare in King Lear.
+
+        "_Gloster._--Dost thou know Dover?
+
+        _Edgar._--Ay, master.
+
+        _Gloster._--There is a cliff, whose high and bending head
+                        Looks fearfully in the confined deep:
+                        Bring me to the very brim of it.
+
+               *       *       *       *       *
+
+        _Edgar._--Come on, sir; here's the place:--stand
+                      Still.--How fearful
+                      And dizzy 'tis, to cast one's eye so low!
+                      The crows, and choughs, that wing the midway air,
+                      Show scarce so gross as beetles: halfway down
+                      Hangs one that gathers samphire; dreadful trade!
+                      Methinks he seems no bigger than his head:
+                      The fishermen that walk upon the beach
+                      Appear like mice; and yon tall anchoring bark,
+                      Diminished to her cock; her cock, a buoy
+                      Almost too small for sight: the murmuring surge,
+                      That on the unnumber'd idle pebbles chafes,
+                      Cannot be heard so high. I'll look no more,
+                      Lest my brain turn, and the deficient sight
+                      Topple down headlong."
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: DOVER.
+
+_KENT._]
+
+
+
+
+DOVER.
+
+
+Dover is in the county of Kent, and lies about seventy-two miles
+south-south-east of London. The town is situated in a valley, having on
+one side the cliffs on which Dover Castle is built, and on the other the
+eminence called the _Heights_; these are strongly fortified, and form
+the principal defence of the town and harbour. The greater part of the
+town lies on the western side of a small stream, called the Dour, which
+there discharges itself into the sea. The view in the Engraving is taken
+from the beach, on the eastern side of the harbour, looking towards the
+north-east. The row of houses seen extending in a line nearly parallel
+with the beach is called the Marine Parade; and, crowning the cliff, is
+perceived what of old was termed "the Key and Bar of England,"--Dover
+Castle. Its importance as a place of defence against the attacks of an
+invading enemy has, however, been seldom proved; and for the last three
+centuries the best defence of England against the invasion of her foes
+has been her wooden-walls.
+
+    "Britannia needs no bulwark,
+    No towers along the steep;
+    Her march is o'er the mountain wave,
+    Her home is on the deep.
+    With thunders from her native oak,
+    She quells the floods below,
+    As they roar on the shore,
+    When the stormy tempests blow;
+    When the battle rages loud and long,
+    And the stormy tempests blow."
+
+The height of the cliff, on which Dover Castle stands, is about three
+hundred and twenty feet above the level of the sea; and the area of the
+ground inclosed by the outward walls is about thirty-four acres. It has
+been supposed that the Romans, in one of Julius Caesar's expeditions,
+first built a castle and established a military station at Dover; but
+this opinion is founded on mere conjecture, and is extremely improbable.
+That the Romans, at some subsequent period, had a station not far from
+the present keep is certain; for the remains of the walls and ditch are
+still perceptible. It however appears to have been but of small size,
+and was probably only a _castrum exploratorum_, or look-out station,
+garrisoned by a small body of soldiers detached from a neighbouring
+camp. Within the boundary of the exploratory camp the Romans had built a
+pharos, or watch-tower, the greater part of which is yet standing.
+
+Previous to the Norman Conquest, there was undoubtedly a castle or
+fortress at Dover, probably near the spot where the keep or principal
+tower of Dover Castle now stands. Previous to the death of Edward the
+Confessor it appears to have belonged to Harold, afterwards King of
+England; for William, Duke of Normandy, who was then probably devising
+measures to secure to himself the English crown, refused to allow Harold
+to depart from Rouen, till he had taken an oath to deliver up to him
+"the Castle of Dover and the well of water in it," on the decease of
+Edward. After the battle of Hastings, the Conqueror marched without
+delay to Dover, took possession of the castle, and put the governor to
+death. It appears that he also burnt the town, which perhaps might not
+have received him with sufficient humility, in order to terrify others
+into immediate submission to his authority. The foundation of the
+present keep of Dover Castle was laid by Henry II. in 1153, the year
+before he succeeded to the English crown on the death of King Stephen.
+The ground plan is nearly a square, and the building, in its general
+appearance, bears a great resemblance to Rochester Castle, which was
+erected according to the designs of Bishop Gundulph--the architect of
+the White Tower in the Tower of London--in the early part of the reign
+of William Rufus. The walls of the keep of Dover Castle are from
+eighteen to twenty feet thick, and are traversed by galleries
+communicating with the principal apartments. The summit is embattled;
+and the top of the northern turret is 93 feet high from the ground, and
+about 465 feet above the level of the sea, at low water. The view from
+the top is extremely grand and interesting, including the North
+Foreland, Reculver Church, Ramsgate Pier, Sandwich, and a great part of
+the intermediate country, with the straits of Dover, the town of Calais,
+and the line of the French coast from Gravelines to Boulogne. In 1800, a
+bomb-proof arched roof was constructed, and several large cannon mounted
+on it. During the late war the fortifications were greatly strengthened,
+the old towers on the walls repaired, and additional quarters for
+soldiers constructed, in order that the garrison, in the event of
+invasion, might be able to withstand a regular siege.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: SANDWICH.
+
+(Kent.)]
+
+
+
+
+SANDWICH,
+
+KENT.
+
+
+    Her walls are crumbling down--the gate,
+    Through which her merchants wont to pour
+    Is all dismantled: adverse fate
+    Has cast a blight upon her shore.
+    Her streets and shipless haven show
+    The tenure of all things below.
+
+The history of Sandwich, as one of the Cinque Ports, presents a striking
+example of the fluctuation of trade, and the uncertain tenure by which
+all mercantile property is held, when supported by merely human
+ingenuity and enterprise. A very slight operation of nature is
+sufficient to paralyse the hand of ambition, and to strike the once
+productive landscape with sterility. Harbours, where our forefathers
+have counted the thickly crowded masts of stately merchantmen, are now
+deserted or forgotten. Many of the channels through which riches were
+once poured into this county, have been gradually dried up; while new
+ports and harbours have been opened on various parts of the coast, where
+commercial enterprise has fixed her abode. But, like their predecessors,
+these also may be deserted in their turn, and silently co-operate in
+that ever-progressive scheme of nature, by which, as the old and
+familiar scenes of our youth become changed or obliterated, others are
+called forth to take their place. The existence of a shoal, or the
+shifting of a sand-bank, may mar or diminish the prosperity of a city;
+and to the great local changes which this part of the Kentish coast has
+undergone, the decay of Sandwich, as a harbour, is chiefly to be
+ascribed. Where fleets of merchantmen once rode in safety; where the
+busy scenes of lading and unlading once offered pictures of maritime
+prosperity, the fishing-craft of the place can hardly find anchorage,
+and all the characteristics of a flourishing port have disappeared; so
+that it may be affirmed, with a truth too evident, that--
+
+    "The balance has shifted--prosperity's ray
+    No longer enlivens her harbour and bay."
+
+The town of Sandwich includes the parishes of St. Clement, St.
+Mary-the-Virgin, and St. Peter-the-Apostle. St. Clement's Church is a
+very ancient and spacious structure, with a massive tower, a noble
+specimen of the Norman style of ecclesiastical architecture. St. Mary's
+is also a church of considerable antiquity as well as St. Peter's; but
+both have been considerably damaged by time and accident. The Guildhall
+is an ancient and handsome edifice. The Free Grammar-School, endowed
+with exhibitions, was founded in 1563; and among the charitable
+institutions are the Hospitals of St. Thomas and St. John, in which a
+number of aged persons of good character, but in reduced circumstances,
+are comfortably supported. The Hospital of St. Bartholomew is a
+munificent foundation, from the funds of which sixteen decayed tradesmen
+of respectable character, and others, members of the corporation, are
+supported in comparative affluence.
+
+Sandwich was originally enclosed by walls and partly fortified. It had
+eight gates, one of which, called Fisher's Gate, is considered by
+architects and antiquaries as well deserving of inspection, for the
+excellence of its design and workmanship. It illustrates a period when
+the craft had reached its zenith in this country, and when the
+Templars--the Vaubans of their day--still exercised the mysteries of
+architecture.
+
+Ship-building and rope-making, as well as a foreign trade with Norway,
+Sweden, and Russia, in iron, timber, and hemp, are still carried on in
+Sandwich though comparatively to a very small extent. The home trade,
+chiefly with Wales and Scotland, consists of flour, seed, hops, malt,
+fruit, &c.; but of the once celebrated woollen trade of Sandwich not a
+vestige is left. The weekly market-days are Wednesday and Saturday, with
+a cattle-market every alternate Monday, and annual fairs on the second
+of October and fourth of December.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: RAMSGATE.]
+
+
+
+
+RAMSGATE,
+
+ENTRANCE TO THE HARBOUR.
+
+
+The view of the entrance to Ramsgate harbour, engraved from a painting
+by E. W. Cooke, is taken from the southward, and its fidelity will
+immediately be recognised by every one who has seen the place. It is
+blowing a stiff breeze, which causes a swell; and the fishing smack,
+seen entering, is lowering her sails, that she may not have too much
+_way_ when she gets within the harbour. To the left is the lighthouse,
+which stands near the end of the western pier; and the extremity of the
+eastern pier is perceived to the right.
+
+The cost of Ramsgate harbour, dock, lighthouse, and other requisite
+buildings, is said to have amounted to L650,000. The form of the harbour
+is nearly circular, and its area is about forty-six acres. The length of
+the eastern pier, following its angles, or "cants" as they are
+technically termed, is about 2000 feet, and that of the western about
+1500. Their general width is about 26 feet, including the thickness of
+the parapets; and the width of the entrance to the harbour between their
+heads is 240 feet. The harbour is maintained by a tonnage duty on all
+ships passing, whether sailing on the east or west of the Goodwin Sands,
+and by a duty on coals and stones discharged in the harbour.
+
+The light displayed from the lighthouse is stationary, and is only
+exhibited when there is ten feet water between the pier heads. In the
+day time a flag is hoisted while there is the same depth of water at the
+entrance of the harbour. In spring tides, the depth of water increases
+to sixteen feet in about an hour from the time that the ten-feet signal
+is displayed; in about two hours to twenty feet; and in three hours, or
+about high water, to twenty-one feet. In neap-tides the depth of water
+at those periods respectively is fourteen, seventeen, and eighteen feet
+between the pier heads.
+
+During the summer, Ramsgate is much frequented by visitors from London,
+who come by the daily steam-packets to enjoy the benefit of sea-bathing,
+for which the beach to the southward of the pier affords excellent
+opportunity. Powerful steam-packets ply every day between London and
+Ramsgate, and the passage up or down is usually made in seven hours.
+There are several excellent hotels and many convenient lodging-houses at
+Ramsgate, and the charges generally are moderate. At the close of the
+year, when the summer visitants have all retired to their several
+homes, another description of persons make their appearance at
+Ramsgate--the Torbay fishermen, who generally establish their rendezvous
+there from December to June, for the sake of fishing in the North Sea.
+It seems probable that Ramsgate, as a port, will continue to increase
+very considerably in importance; and, in the event of a continental war,
+when steam-vessels are likely to be much employed, its eligibility as a
+place for the embarkation of troops, and as a packet station, will
+doubtless not be overlooked. It not unfrequently happens, in stormy
+weather, that the Dover packets enter Ramsgate with safety, when they
+cannot approach their own harbour.
+
+The South-Eastern Railway Company have extended their line to Ramsgate,
+and the route, though rather circuitous, secures a large share of
+patronage from that portion of the pleasure-seeking visitants of our
+coasts to whom the stiff breezes and heavy swell, generally found off
+the North Foreland, are the reverse of gratifying.
+
+George IV., on his departure to visit his Hanoverian dominions in 1821,
+embarked at Ramsgate; and to commemorate the event, an obelisk was
+erected by subscription of the inhabitants. The popularity of Ramsgate,
+as a watering-place, was greatly increased by the partiality evinced for
+it by her present Majesty, when Princess Victoria, who, with her august
+mother, the Duchess of Kent, honoured it with several successive visits.
+
+Camden, in his Britannia, gives the people of the Isle of Thanet, and
+more particularly the inhabitants of Ramsgate, Margate, and Broadstairs,
+the following character: "They are, as it were, amphibious, seeking
+their living both by sea and land, and turning to account both elements.
+They are fishermen and ploughmen, farmers and sailors; and the same man
+that holds the shafts of a plough, turning up a furrow on land, can also
+take the helm at sea. According to the season, they make nets, catch
+cod, herring, mackerel, and other fish; go to sea, and export their own
+commodities--and those very men also dung the ground, plough, sow,
+harrow, reap, and house the corn." The inhabitants of Ramsgate, and of
+the Isle of Thanet generally, no longer retain this amphibious
+character; the "division of labour," the advantages of which are so
+strikingly pointed out by political economists in the manufacture of
+pins, has abridged their multifarious pursuits; the same man does not
+now till the earth and plough the sea; and few indeed are to be found
+who can handle an oar as well as a flail: the consequence is, that we
+have better boatmen and better agriculturists.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: BROADSTAIRS.
+
+(Kent.)]
+
+
+
+
+BROADSTAIRS.
+
+ISLE OF THANET.
+
+
+    "True to the dream of fancy, Ocean has
+    His darker tints; but where's the element
+    That chequers not its usefulness to man
+    With casual terror?"
+
+        CAMPBELL.
+
+This delightful watering-place, nearly equidistant from Margate on the
+north, and Ramsgate on the south, enjoys its full share of popularity;
+and, judging from many recent improvements, offers increasing
+attractions to the numerous visitors who make Thanet's "sea-girt shore"
+their summer residence. To those who prefer tranquillity and retirement
+to scenes of bustle and holiday festivity, Broadstairs will present many
+advantages over its more gay and animated rivals; and to the studious
+and contemplative nothing can be more congenial than the society which
+generally meet once a year in this interesting spot. To the invalid it
+is favourable from the same causes, offering few temptations to gaiety
+or indulgence, but affording every facility for retired and intellectual
+enjoyment. The sea-view is magnificent; and the numerous vessels which
+are constantly passing and repassing give a most agreeable animation to
+the waters in front, which are walled in by lofty cliffs, from which the
+visitor inhales the fresh sea-breeze, as it first strikes the land, and
+carries its invigorating influence through his frame.
+
+Broadstairs has long been the periodical residence of many distinguished
+literary men, most of whom have acknowledged the benefit derived from
+its bracing climate, and verified their opinion by repeated trials. If
+pure air could be as readily administered as certain medicinal
+compounds, there would be little necessity for so often deserting the
+courts and counting-houses of the metropolis in search of health; but so
+long as this "draught" cannot be made up according to nature's
+prescription, it is cheering to know that on the coast it may be had
+ready prepared, and without "mistake" or "adulteration."
+
+It was while overlooking a scene like that which opens upon the visitor
+at Broadstairs, and while sensibly feeling all the salubrious influence
+of the breezes, that seemed to welcome and caress him when exchanging
+the pleasures of town for poetry and contemplation on the coast, that
+the Bard of Hope broke out into these noble and impassioned lines:--
+
+    "Hail to thy face and odours, glorious Sea!
+    'Twere thanklessness in me to bless thee not,
+    Great beauteous being! in whose breath and smile
+    My heart beats calmer, and my very mind
+    Inhales salubrious thoughts. How welcomer
+    _Thy_ murmurs, than the murmurs of the world!
+    Tho', like the world, thou fluctuatest, to me
+    Thy din is peace, thy restlessness repose.
+    Even gladly I exchange yon spring-green lanes,
+    With all the darling field-flowers in their prime,
+    And gardens haunted by the nightingale's
+    Long trill, and gushing extasies of song,
+    For these wild headlands and the sea-mew's clang!"
+
+Broadstairs appears, in addition to its attraction as bathing-quarters,
+to have formerly enjoyed a considerable share of trade in the fisheries;
+but this source of revenue having dried up, recourse was had to
+ship-building, which is still carried on to a small extent. Its chief
+dependence, however, is on the number and respectability of its
+visitors, many of whom retire here for several months annually with
+their families, and, by a liberal expenditure, do much to support the
+markets and to encourage local industry. The bathing-place is at the
+mouth of the harbour, under the cliff, and is provided with every
+accommodation to be found at the larger watering-places. There are two
+or more excellent hotels, and two extensive public libraries, commanding
+magnificent views of the sea and the shipping--from a fishing-boat to a
+seventy-four--passing to and from the Downs, at all hours of the day.
+The place is still further enlivened, as well as benefited, by the
+London steamers, which here land or embark passengers in their way to
+and from town.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: WRECK IN KINGSGATE BAY.
+
+(Isle of Thanet.)]
+
+
+
+
+KINGSGATE,
+
+NEAR BROADSTAIRS.
+
+
+    "Olim Porta fui Patroni Bartholomaei,
+    Nunc Regis jussu REGIA PORTA vocor,
+    Hic exscenderunt Carolus Secundus Rex
+    Et Jacobus Dux EBOR. 30 Junii, 1683."
+
+So named in consequence of its having been the point at which King
+Charles II. and his brother, the Duke of York, disembarked on their way
+from London to Dover, as recorded in the preceding inscription. It
+consists of a narrow sloping passage, cut through the chalk cliff, and
+communicating with the beach for the convenience of the fishery formerly
+carried on in this neighbourhood. It was originally known as "St.
+Bartholomew's Gate," from the circumstance of its having been completed,
+according to tradition, on the festival of that Saint, and therefore
+placed under hallowed auspices. The eastern side of this portal,
+opposite the sea, bears, in Saxon characters, ~God Bless Barth'lem's
+Gate~. It is about a mile from Broadstairs, and in the midst of scenery
+which Henry Lord Holland did much to embellish by great liberality and a
+correct taste in architecture. His marine residence here was built after
+the model of Cicero's villa on the shore of Baiae, near Naples; but being
+subsequently purchased by some monied speculator, who had most likely
+never heard of Cicero, it was despoiled of its rich Italian marbles,
+curtailed and barbarised in its proportions, and metamorphosed into
+three insignificant dwellings. Around it were several fantastic
+buildings, intended to represent various Gothic ruins; the most
+considerable of which was the convent, containing the remains of a
+chapel and five cells, which once afforded an asylum to poor families.
+Nearer the cliff is a rude Gothic structure, erected on the larger of
+the two tumuli, called Hackendown Banks, which, according to tradition,
+marks the spot where a sanguinary conflict took place between the Saxons
+and the Danes, in which the latter were defeated. On opening these
+barrows, graves were found excavated in the solid chalk, of an oblong
+oval form, about three feet long, and covered with flat stones. In one
+of them were discovered three urns of coarse, black, ill-burnt earth,
+which, on being exposed to the air, crumbled to pieces. On a tablet
+erected by Lord Holland is a Latin inscription, to the memory of the
+Danes and Saxons, who here fought a sanguinary battle for the possession
+of Britain; the natives having before been perfidiously and cruelly
+expelled. The village of St. Peter, situated on a conspicuously wooded
+eminence, is much frequented by pleasure parties from the three
+bathing-places adjacent. The church is a fine, venerable structure, the
+steeple of which, of great strength and solidity, is remarkable for a
+rent from top to bottom, occasioned, it is said, by the shock of an
+earthquake, which was severely felt along this coast in 1580.
+
+The North Foreland, the most eastern point of England, and supposed to
+be the "Cantium" of Ptolemy, forms a bold projection on the line of
+cliffs between Broadstairs and Kingsgate. On this promontory stands the
+North Foreland Lighthouse, which has proved an incalculable safeguard to
+the navigation of the Downs, which, independently of the near vicinity
+of the Goodwin Sands, is attended with great risk in dark and stormy
+weather. The lights consist of patent lamps, with large magnifying
+lenses twenty inches in diameter, which are lighted at sunset, and kept
+burning till after daybreak. From the top the view of the straits and
+French coast is most extensive, and on this account it is much resorted
+to by strangers. The date of its erection is that of the landing of King
+Charles at Kingsgate, already noticed.
+
+The Goodwin Sands, which here protect the Downs from the swell of the
+Northern Ocean, are about seven miles from the coast, ten miles long,
+and two or more in breadth. They consist of a more soft, fluid, porous,
+spongy, but withal tenacious substance, than the neighbouring sands, and
+are consequently of such a quality, that when a ship strikes upon them
+there is but very little chance of her getting off: the nature of the
+sand being to swallow its prey in a few hours, while the surf, which
+breaks over them, frustrates all attempts to approach the ill-fated
+vessel. When the tide, however, has ebbed sufficiently, these sands
+become so hard and firm that cricket-matches have been played upon them.
+But woe to him who does not quit so treacherous a field at the proper
+moment; for on the return of the tide they are instantly converted into
+quicksands, that float to and fro with the waves.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: "THE WESTMINSTER" AND "CLAUDINE," ASHORE NEAR MARGATE.]
+
+
+
+
+SCENE NEAR MARGATE.
+
+TWO VESSELS ASHORE.
+
+
+    At night, beneath a cloudless moon,
+      Yon gallant vessel plough'd her way;
+    But storms arose:--next day at noon,
+      A stranded wreck that vessel lay!
+    So man, beneath a flattering sun,
+      Puts forth in pride his slender sail;
+    But while he dreams of treasure won,
+      His bark is shatter'd in the gale.--W. B.
+
+Along the west side of the Isle of Thanet the sea has made very
+considerable encroachments; many of the ancient landmarks have been
+washed away, and naturally exposed to the fury of the north and east
+winds, great portions of the cliffs have gradually disappeared in the
+sea. The same causes continuing in active operation, the effects are
+annually perceptible upon the boundary line, which defends this coast
+from the Northern Ocean. But the damage sustained in the east is amply
+compensated for in the west of England, where a territory fit for the
+accommodation of 20,000 or 30,000 inhabitants might be gained from the
+tide-mark at little comparative outlay. We allude to the projected
+improvements on the Lancashire coast, particularly Morecambe Bay, and
+the estuary of the river Duddon.
+
+Margate had originally a natural inlet of the sea; and in the reign of
+Edward I. Gore-end church, in consequence of the sea's encroachment, was
+removed inland. "Margate," says Leland, "lyeth in St. John's paroche in
+Thanet, a v. mile fro Reculver; and there is a village and a peere for
+shyppes, but sore decayed." Owing to its natural position, Margate has
+never been able to establish a foreign trade. In 1787, the old wooden
+pier having become ruinous, it was cased with stone, and extended
+further into the sea; but a tremendous gale having soon after come on,
+the works were demolished; and a fresh act of parliament being obtained
+for that purpose, a fine, strong, and convenient mole was erected on a
+new plan, where a public promenade, with an extensive prospect, affords
+a beautiful source of recreation to the visitors, while at the same time
+it shuts out from observation the hurry and bustle of the harbour.
+
+In 1748, a tremendous storm from the southward drove a number of vessels
+from their anchorage in the Downs, many of which were wrecked under
+these cliffs. The vast sacrifice of life and property thus occasioned
+induced the shipping and mercantile interests to think of increasing the
+capacity of Ramsgate harbour, an account of which appears in this work.
+Winds from the south-east and south-west are those by which the safety
+of the shipping in the Downs is most endangered. Vessels breaking adrift
+in the latter at night, with strong south-west and southerly gales, says
+an experienced naval officer, should run into the North Sea, through the
+Gulf Stream; if in distress, and the attempt uncertain, the only
+alternative is to run for Ramsgate harbour or on the Sandwich flats.
+Along this coast nine lug-boats, called _hovellers_, are employed for
+the relief of vessels in distress. They vary from twenty to twenty-seven
+tons burthen each, draw five feet water, and are usually manned with a
+crew of ten men, who are always on the out-look for vessels requiring
+their assistance. By their proverbial courage and exertions, many lives
+are annually saved from vessels wrecked on the neighbouring coast and
+shoals, and much valuable property restored to its owners. When it
+becomes a salvage case, they lay their claims before one of the
+commission courts, appointed by the Lord Warden, who make an award
+agreeable to the service performed. Several of these boats are stationed
+at Margate, Ramsgate, Deal, and Dover; but those of the latter only have
+the privilege to enter continental ports, by license from the
+Custom-house. In the most severe and boisterous weather several of these
+boats cruise in the Narrows of the Channel, and are frequently the means
+of rendering, under desperate circumstances, important service to the
+shipping interest.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: CHATHAM.]
+
+
+
+
+CHATHAM DOCK-YARD.
+
+
+The view of the Dock-yard at Chatham is taken from the opposite side of
+the Medway, a little above Upnor Castle, which was built by Queen
+Elizabeth to defend the passage of the river. To the left is seen a
+sheer hulk, so called from her "sheers"--two strong pieces of timber of
+great height, inclining towards each other and joined together at the
+top--which are used for the purpose of raising and placing in their
+proper situations the lower masts of ships of war. Further to the right
+are perceived the large roofs of the building-slips and dry-docks;
+nearly abreast of which are two ships of war laid up in ordinary. A-head
+of those vessels are two others of the same class; and further up the
+river, directly in front, a view is obtained of part of the town of
+Chatham.
+
+The Dock-yard of Chatham lies at a short distance to the northward of
+the town of that name, and on the right bank of the river Medway. The
+first dockyard at Chatham for the service of the navy was established by
+Queen Elizabeth. It was situated higher up the river than the present
+yard, on a narrow slip of land, and had only one dock. In 1622 a new
+dock-yard was formed by James I., and the site of the old one, which was
+too circumscribed for the service of the increasing navy, was assigned
+to the Board of Ordnance. In the reign of Charles I., additional
+dry-docks and building-slips were formed and several store-houses
+erected.
+
+Chatham dock-yard is enclosed on the land side by a high wall, and the
+principal entrance is through a lofty gateway to the south-west, above
+which are the royal arms, and on each side an embattled tower. Strangers
+wishing to see the yard are furnished with a ticket by the
+superintendent of the dock-police on entering their names in a book kept
+at a lodge within the gate. There are four docks and seven
+building-slips at Chatham, most of which are covered with immense roofs.
+To the south-westward of the docks there is a long range of store-houses
+facing the river, and having in front a spacious quay, part of which is
+occupied as an anchor wharf. Behind this line of buildings, which is
+upwards of a thousand feet in length, is the ropery, where cables and
+all other kinds of ropes are manufactured for the use of ships of war.
+Beyond the docks to the northward, are the mast-ponds and sheds for
+storing timber, on the right; and on the left is the boat-house. At the
+smith's shop anchors and other articles of iron work are made for the
+use of the navy; and towards the north-eastern extremity of the yard is
+a saw-mill, erected by Mr. Brunel, the inventor of the block-machinery
+at Portsmouth. The mill is situated on an eminence, and the timber
+intended to be cut is floated through a tunnel from the Medway into an
+elliptic basin, from which it is raised by machinery to the level of the
+mill. The saws are put in motion by a steam-engine; and the timber,
+after having been cut, is conveyed away by trucks running on railways to
+different parts of the yard. When M. Charles Dupin, the celebrated
+French author of several works on the dock-yards, roads, bridges, and
+harbours of Great Britain, visited Chatham in 1817, he objected to this
+saw-mill being erected on an eminence; but he seems to have overlooked
+the consequent advantage of the timber being thence conveyed by a gentle
+slope, with very little labour, to the different docks and slips,
+without interfering with any of the other works.[14] The commissioner
+has a handsome residence within the walls of the yard, and there are
+also many excellent houses, which are occupied by the officers and
+principal artificers. A neat chapel, of brick, for the convenience of
+the officers and workmen, was erected within the yard in 1811. At one
+period during the late war, the number of men employed was 3000.
+
+The Ordnance Wharf is situated to the south-westward of the dock-yard on
+the site of the old yard established by Queen Elizabeth, and it is still
+frequently called the Old Dock. The guns are placed in rows, and have
+painted on them the name of the ship to which they belong, and their
+weight of metal; the carriages are also placed separately, but under
+sheds. Large piles of shot are seen in various parts of the wharf; and
+there is also within its boundary an armoury, where various kinds of
+weapons--chiefly muskets, pistols, pikes, and cutlasses--are arranged in
+admirable order.
+
+A fund--commonly called the Chest of Chatham--for the relief of disabled
+seamen, was established there by Queen Elizabeth on the recommendation
+of Sir Francis Drake and Sir John Hawkins, in 1588--the seamen of the
+royal navy, after the defeat of the Spanish Armada, having agreed to
+give up a portion of their pay for the relief of their wounded and
+disabled brethren. The Royal Marine Hospital of Chatham is one of the
+finest establishments of the kind in Great Britain, and from the
+elegance of its plan, the extent of its buildings, and its commanding
+position, forms a truly noble feature in the landscape.
+
+[14] _Quarterly Review_--Dupin, _On the Marine Establishments of France
+and England_.--No. XLIII. p. 41.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: GRAVESEND.]
+
+
+
+
+GRAVESEND,
+
+FROM THE THAMES.
+
+
+The great facilities of communication with the metropolis, the salubrity
+of the air, the beauty of the surrounding scenery, and the public
+amusements by which it is enlivened, have all contributed to render
+Gravesend the most frequented town on the river Thames. The thousands of
+visitors who here keep holiday during six or eight months of the year,
+have insured resources to the inhabitants more to be depended on than
+the fluctuations of trade. New houses, new streets, hotels,
+reading-rooms, public baths, and pleasure-gardens, have all appeared in
+succession since the introduction of steam on the river, and now present
+attractions rarely to be met with in any inland or maritime town of like
+size. The harbour, generally enlivened by East and West Indiamen at
+anchor; the incessant passing and repassing of steamers to every part of
+the coast and kingdom; with private yachts and pleasure-boats skimming
+past, or lying off the piers, with their holiday freight of joyous
+citizens, give a never failing interest and spirit to the whole picture;
+and present, in a short sojourn at Gravesend, more animation and variety
+than is to be met with at any other part of the river. The rides and
+drives inland are highly varied and picturesque. Cobham Hall--the
+ancient seat of Lord Darnley--and its magnificent park-scenery, with the
+village and ancient church adjoining, are objects that well repay a
+summer-day's excursion. Springhead, famous for the water-cresses which
+it supplies to the London markets, is one of the most rural and
+picturesque retreats in Kent; while Gad's-hill, to which Shakspeare has
+given immortality, as the scene of the robbery of the Sandwich
+merchants, said to have been perpetrated by Henry the Fifth--when Prince
+Hal--and his dissolute companions, is within an easy walk.
+Windmill-hill, the highest object in the background of the picture, is
+proverbially famed as commanding one of the finest panoramic views in
+the county.
+
+The bathing-establishments are on a large scale, admirably constructed,
+and managed with great punctuality and attention. Adjoining the Clifton
+Baths is a delightful pleasure-ground, agreeably varied with walks and
+seats, and ornamented with trees, shrubs, and flowers. From this
+eminence, which overhangs the Thames, a charming prospect is open at all
+times to the groups of visitors by whom it is frequented.
+
+The gardens, now known as the Rosherville-gardens, have been opened of
+late years for dancing, music, and fireworks during the season, and have
+become the chosen resort of numerous societies and schools, who here
+celebrate their anniversaries. A large dining-hall and other necessary
+adjuncts have been erected for their accommodation, including a handsome
+pier, at which most of the steam-boats call, on their passages to and
+from the other piers.
+
+The Town-pier--having superseded the old and unpleasant process of
+boating--is a structure of vast convenience as a landing place, and is
+besides of excellent design and execution. It consists of insulated
+columns, or piles of cast-iron, supporting a floor or stage, and extends
+into the river about fifty feet beyond low-water-mark. In summer this
+stage is covered with an awning, under which visitors can promenade,
+sheltered from sun or shower, and enjoy the entertainment furnished by
+an excellent band of music, which takes its daily station on the Pier.
+Below the Town-pier is another pier, or jetty, extending nearly a
+hundred feet into the water, called the Terrace-pier--so called from
+having attached to it an extensive terrace or promenade, and a
+beautifully arranged lawn or shrubbery, for the use of those who
+frequent the pier.
+
+During the last ten years, Gravesend has several times suffered very
+severely from fires, causing great destruction in the more closely-built
+portions of the town; these calamitous visitations, though deplorable in
+their immediate consequences, have not been without their beneficial
+results, by affording an opportunity for widening and improving the
+thoroughfares in their vicinity, and of which due advantage has been
+wisely taken.
+
+For many years, the steam-boat companies monopolized the traffic from
+London to Gravesend, their superior vessels, rapid speed, and moderate
+fare, set every other species of conveyance at defiance; but they have
+been compelled to admit a formidable rival to their trade, in the
+all-absorbing railway, which now surpasses them in quickness, and places
+itself upon an equality in respect to price and accommodation. The
+North-Kent line passing through Woolwich and Erith, has penetrated into
+the heart of Gravesend, and by filling up the Thames and Medway canal,
+made an iron road to the ancient city of Rochester. But, although the
+skill of the engineer and wealth of the capitalist has thus succeeded in
+bringing this fashionable watering-place and the old cathedral town into
+closer connection with our giant metropolis, they have not been able to
+overcome those natural obstacles to the rapid progress of the locomotive
+engine--hills and valleys, without having recourse to that most
+disagreeable of all roads, the subterranean--and the difference between
+rushing through their sombre excavations, amid the clatter of the
+machinery and the hissing of the liberated steam, and calmly gliding on
+the quiet surface of the beautiful Thames, must, we think, be such as to
+render the journey by the river at all times the most popular with those
+who travel for pleasure.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: LONDON FROM GREENWICH PARK.]
+
+
+
+
+LONDON,
+
+FROM GREENWICH PARK.
+
+
+    How glorious is the scene that here expands,
+    Where, 'mid her lofty towers, Augusta stands,
+    Drawing, in tribute to her daring helm,
+    And boundless trade, the wealth of every realm;
+    And stretching forth her hand o'er land and main,
+    To check the proud, and break the captive's chain!
+
+It may be safely affirmed that they who have witnessed the view of
+London, from Greenwich Park, have beheld a scene which neither time nor
+circumstances can ever obliterate, and to which it may be doubted if
+Europe itself could furnish a rival. It is a point to which foreigners
+and strangers uniformly advert, in expressing their admiration of the
+British capital and its environs; and to which, during the fine season,
+multitudes resort for the sake of the delicious park-scenery and the
+magnificent prospects which it commands. From the base of the National
+Observatory to the cupola of St. Paul's, the objects which it embraces
+are of the most variegated and imposing character. In the fore ground is
+the palace of the former "Kings and Queens of England,"--now the noblest
+Hospital in the world--with all its stately appendages. In the centre of
+the picture is the Thames--the great "highway" by which the fleets of
+commerce are continually pouring the treasures of the world into the
+heart of the metropolis. In the back ground--here in bold relief, and
+there dimly shadowed in the horizon--are seen the towers and temples of
+London, with the majestic dome of St. Paul's presiding over the whole in
+glorious pre-eminence. Turning to the east, the scene presents new
+objects of interest and admiration. The shipping off Blackwall--the
+Docks--the vast traffic by which the river is continually agitated--the
+steamers passing and repassing, their decks crowded with company, and
+the bands of music occasionally striking up, as they pass the Royal
+Hospital, the national air of "Rule Britannia,"--all produce an effect
+upon the spectators, which, in point of animation, cannot be surpassed.
+What gives peculiar interest to the picture, is the appearance of the
+"ancient mariners" who are continually in sight--pensioners who have
+given their legs and arms as pledges to British independence, and now
+pass the evening of their days in every comfort to which a
+weather-beaten seaman can aspire--
+
+                      Heroes, every one,
+    Ye might as soon have made the steeple run;
+    And then his messmates, if you're pleased to stay,
+    He'll one by one the gallant souls display.
+
+This magnificent Hospital presents an imposing range of buildings in the
+Grecian style of architecture, extending several hundred feet along the
+right bank of the Thames, and divided into two wings by a noble lawn,
+with a descent to the water's edge by a handsome flight of steps. The
+wings recede a considerable space from the river and are crowned in the
+distance by two lofty domes, behind which rise the acclivities of the
+royal park, covered with trees of centuries, and undulating with
+variegated masses of verdure. Through the midst of these, and occupying
+the site of the original fortress of Greenwich, rises that celebrated
+Observatory which has so frequently engaged the attention of scientific
+Europe; and with which the names of Flamsteed, Halley, Bradley, Bliss,
+Maskelyn, Pond, and Airey, are so emphatically connected.
+
+To the history of Greenwich Hospital we can only very briefly advert.
+After the rebellion in 1715, the forfeited estates of the Earl of
+Derwentwater, amounting at that time to six thousand pounds per annum,
+were voted by parliament to this hospital; and with the numerous
+benefactions since bestowed by private individuals, it is now enabled to
+provide for nearly three thousand inmates. Every Pensioner receives a
+liberal allowance of provisions and clothes, with a shilling a week for
+pocket-money. The nurses--widows of seamen, and of whom there were
+lately a hundred and five--in addition to provisions, have each an
+annual allowance of from eighteen to twenty pounds. A library is
+provided for the exclusive use of the Pensioners. The office of governor
+of Greenwich Hospital is generally conferred on veterans of the highest
+rank and standing in the service,--such as Hood, Keats and Hardy, the
+friend and companion of Nelson.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: THE PORT OF LONDON.]
+
+
+
+
+THE PORT OF LONDON.
+
+
+The Port of London commences at London Bridge. The forest of masts which
+rises in direct view--thickening in perspective till it is lost in the
+distance--announces the vast extent of that Commerce which stretches its
+arms to the "uttermost parts of the globe." The Pool, as this part of
+the river is called, extends from London Bridge to Deptford,--a distance
+of nearly four miles, with an average breadth of from four to five
+hundred yards. It consists of four divisions, called the Upper, Middle,
+and Lower Pools, and that occupying the space between Limehouse and
+Deptford. The Upper Pool extends from London Bridge to Union Hole--a
+space of about sixteen hundred yards; from this to Wapping New Stairs
+forms the Middle Pool--about seven hundred yards. The Lower Pool extends
+from the latter point to Horseferry Pier, Limehouse--about eighteen
+hundred yards. The fourth Pool occupies the space between Limehouse and
+Deptford--about two thousand seven hundred yards.
+
+The Custom-House, which is a prominent feature in this View, was first
+erected in 1559--very shortly after the accession of Queen Elizabeth;
+but, having shared the fate of the other public buildings in the great
+fire of London, it was rebuilt, two years after by Charles the Second.
+By a similar calamity, however, this was also burnt to the ground in
+1718, and a third erected, which--strange to say--was also consumed in
+1814. The fourth, which is the present magnificent structure, was opened
+for business in May, 1817. It was erected from the designs of David
+Laing, Esq.; but, in consequence of certain defects, which threatened
+destruction to a considerable portion of the building, the Long Room, as
+it is called, was _shored_ up, the front next to the river taken down,
+and the present front as shown in the Engraving, was substituted by Mr.
+Smirke. The whole is erected on an extensive and magnificent scale.
+
+The London and St. Katherine's Docks are seen a little to the right, and
+afford accommodation to a vast number of shipping. The London Dock
+covers twenty acres: fourteen tobacco-warehouses cover an acre each; the
+cellars occupy three acres, and can accommodate twenty-two thousand
+pipes of wine. The St. Katherine's Dock covers the extensive area of
+ground which a few years ago was occupied by the parish of St.
+Katherine; the whole of which, comprising above twelve hundred houses,
+was bought and pulled down, at an outlay of two millions sterling, for
+the construction of these magnificent basins and warehouses, with which
+nothing that mercantile enterprise has hitherto effected can bear a
+comparison. The old parish church of St. Katherine was built on the site
+of an ancient monastery founded in the twelfth century by Matilda of
+Boulogne. A rich hospital and various benefactions have belonged to this
+parish ever since its original endowment; for the perpetuation of which
+a handsome church and several dwelling-houses were erected near
+Gloucester Gate, Regent's Park, the emoluments connected with which were
+bestowed by the late Queen Adelaide, in whose gift they were, upon
+persons belonging to the royal household, or otherwise recommended to
+her Majesty.
+
+In front of these docks is a spacious steam-packet wharf; and from this
+point to Rotherhithe the river--here called the Middle Pool--is
+generally so crowded with shipping at anchor, or rapidly passing up and
+down, that it requires both skill and caution on the part of the
+helmsman to avoid collision. It is here that strangers can form an exact
+idea of the vast traffic by which the Thames is continually animated,
+and to which there is no parallel in the cities of commercial Europe.
+
+Notwithstanding the obvious utility of wet-docks, and the vast trade of
+the British Metropolis, there was no establishment of this sort on the
+Thames till nearly a century after a wet-dock had been constructed at
+Liverpool. The inconvenience arising from the crowded state of the river
+at those periods when the fleets of merchantmen were accustomed to
+arrive, the very insufficient accommodation afforded by the legal quays
+and sufferance-wharfs; the necessity under which many ships were placed
+of unloading in the river by means of fighters, and the insecurity and
+loss of property thence arising, had been felt and complained of as an
+intolerable grievance. But so powerful was the opposition to any change,
+made by the private wharfingers and others interested in the support of
+the existing order of things, that it was not till 1793 that a plan was
+projected for making wet-docks for the Port of London, yet the activity
+and enterprise of the merchants and shipowners of the metropolis have,
+since that date, amply compensated for their lost time, and the docks of
+London are now models of superiority in that peculiar department of
+civil engineering.
+
+Though not included in the engraving, the recent improvements which have
+been effected in its vicinity by the public spirit of the Corporation of
+London, demand a passing tribute of admiration. The New Coal Exchange is
+an edifice worthy of the purpose for which it was designed--the mart for
+the sale of one of Great Britain's most valuable products; and
+Billingsgate is now a market fitting for a city containing two millions
+of inhabitants.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: THE TOWER OF LONDON.]
+
+
+
+
+THE TOWER OF LONDON.
+
+
+This celebrated fortress is situated on the east side of the City, a
+short distance from London-bridge, near the banks of the river Thames.
+It at first consisted of no more than what is at present called the
+White Tower, traditionally reported, without any authority, to have been
+built by Julius Caesar, though there is the strongest evidence of its
+being marked out and a part of it first erected by William the
+Conqueror, in the year 1076, doubtless with a view to secure to himself
+and followers a safe retreat, in case the English should ever have
+recourse to arms to recover their ancient possessions and lost
+liberties.
+
+The death of the Conqueror, however, in 1087, about eight years after he
+had commenced this fortress, for some time prevented its progress, and
+left it to be completed by his son William Rufus, who, in 1098,
+surrounded it with walls and a broad and deep ditch, which is in some
+places about one hundred and twenty feet wide, into which water from the
+river Thames was introduced. Henry III., in 1240, ordered a stone gate,
+bulwark, and other additions to be made to this fortress, and the
+ancient tower to be whitened, from whence it was called the White Tower.
+In 1465, Edward IV. greatly enlarged the fortifications, and built the
+Lion's Tower, for the reception of foreign beasts, birds, &c., presented
+to the kings of England; the zoological collection have, however, long
+since been transferred to more eligible quarters in the Regent's-park.
+By the command of Charles II., in 1663, the ditch was completely
+cleansed, the esplanade rebuilt with brick and stone, and sluices were
+erected for admitting and retaining water from the Thames, as occasion
+might require.
+
+The Tower is in the best situation that could have been chosen for a
+fortress, lying near enough to protect the metropolis and the seat of
+commerce from invasion by water. It is parted from the river Thames by a
+commodious wharf and narrow ditch, over which is a drawbridge. Upon this
+wharf is a noble platform, on which are placed sixty-one pieces of
+cannon, nine-pounders, mounted on handsome iron carriages, which were
+fired on state holidays, but small pieces are now used for those
+purposes.
+
+Parallel to the middle part of the wharf, upon the walls, is a platform,
+seventy yards in length, called the Ladies' Line, from its being much
+frequented in the summer evenings, as on the inside it is shaded with a
+row of lofty trees, and without affords a fine prospect of the shipping
+and of the boats passing and repassing on the river. The ascent to this
+line is by stone steps, and, being once upon it, there is a walk almost
+round the walls of the fortress without interruption, in doing which the
+visiter passes three batteries: the first called the Devil's Battery,
+where there is a platform on which are mounted seven pieces of cannon;
+the next is named the Stone Battery, and is defended by eight pieces of
+cannon; and the last, called the Wooden Battery, is mounted with six
+pieces of cannon.
+
+The wharf, or esplanade, which is divided from Tower-hill at each end by
+gates, is opened every morning for the convenience of a free intercourse
+between the respective inhabitants of the Tower, the City, and its
+suburbs. From this wharf is an entrance for persons on foot, over the
+drawbridge already mentioned; and also a water-gate under the
+Tower-wall, commonly called the Traitor's-gate, through which it has
+been customary, for the greater privacy, to convey traitors and other
+state prisoners by water to and from the Tower; the water of the ditch
+had here a communication with the Thames, by means of a stone bridge on
+the wharf. Over this water-gate is a regular building, terminated at
+each end by a round tower, on which are embrasures for pointing cannon.
+
+The principal buildings are the church, a small edifice, dedicated to
+St. Peter ad Vincula, the White Tower, the Governor's House, the Bloody
+Tower, the Offices of Ordnance, of the Keepers of the Records, the Jewel
+Office, the New Spanish Armoury, the New Horse Armoury, the Grand
+Storehouse, in which is the small armoury, the train of artillery, and
+the tent room; the New Storehouse, wherein are three armouries; handsome
+houses for the chief and inferior officers; the Mess-house for the
+officers of the garrison, and the barracks for the soldiers. In addition
+to these, there is a street called the Mint, which includes nearly
+one-third part of the Tower. The principal part of the houses were
+formerly inhabited by the officers employed in the coinage, but now by
+the military and various persons employed in the different offices.
+
+The ravages of the fire which occurred in this fortress a few years
+since have now been repaired, and its ancient walls strengthened and
+improved in accordance with the rules of fortification adopted by the
+best engineers of the day. The stagnant moat which formerly encircled it
+has been drained and converted into an exercise ground for the soldiers
+in the garrison.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Ports, Harbours, Watering-places
+and Picturesque Scenery of Great Britain Vol. 2, by William Finden
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE PORTS, HARBOURS ***
+
+***** This file should be named 34867.txt or 34867.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+        http://www.gutenberg.org/3/4/8/6/34867/
+
+Produced by Chris Curnow, Susan Skinner and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by The Internet Archive)
+
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.
+
+
+
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at
+http://gutenberg.org/license).
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need, are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation web page at http://www.pglaf.org.
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at
+http://pglaf.org/fundraising.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at
+809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email
+business@pglaf.org.  Email contact links and up to date contact
+information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official
+page at http://pglaf.org
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit http://pglaf.org
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations.
+To donate, please visit: http://pglaf.org/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+     http://www.gutenberg.org
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.