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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Ports, Harbours, Watering-places and
+Picturesque Scenery of Great Britain Vol. 1, by William Finden
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Ports, Harbours, Watering-places and Picturesque Scenery of Great Britain Vol. 1
+
+Author: William Finden
+
+Illustrator: W. H. Bartlett
+             J. D. Harding
+             T. Creswick
+
+Release Date: January 6, 2011 [EBook #34866]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE PORTS, HARBOURS ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Chris Curnow, Susan Skinner and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by The Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+FINDEN'S VIEWS
+
+_OF THE_
+
+PORTS, HARBOURS & WATERING PLACES
+
+_OF_
+
+GREAT BRITAIN,
+
+Continued by
+
+W. H. BARTLETT.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: TYNEMOUTH PRIORY AND LIGHT-HOUSE.
+
+_THE LIFE-BOAT_]
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+THE
+
+PORTS, HARBOURS, WATERING-PLACES,
+
+And Picturesque Scenery
+
+OF
+
+GREAT BRITAIN.
+
+ILLUSTRATED BY VIEWS TAKEN ON THE SPOT,
+
+BY
+
+W. H. BARTLETT, J. D. HARDING, T. CRESWICK,
+
+AND OTHERS.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+WITH DESCRIPTIONS, HISTORICAL AND TOPOGRAPHICAL.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+VOL. I.
+
+VIRTUE AND CO., LIMITED, CITY ROAD AND IVY LANE, LONDON.
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF PLATES.
+
+    The arrangement adopted in this List is that of starting from
+    the metropolis, and following the line of the Eastern coast of
+    Great Britain as far northward as Banff, and then returning
+    westward to the River Thames. But as the description of each
+    plate is complete in a single leaf, and there is not any series
+    of folios, the order can be varied at the taste of the
+    purchaser, if directions to that effect be given to the binder.
+
+
+VOLUME I.
+
+
+FRONTISPIECE--LONDON, SOUTHWARK, AND BLACKFRIARS BRIDGES.
+
+VIGNETTE--TYNEMOUTH PRIORY AND LIGHTHOUSE, WITH LIFE-BOAT.
+
+HARWICH.
+
+YARMOUTH, NORFOLK.
+
+--------- WITH THE QUAY AND SHIPPING.
+
+--------- WITH NELSON'S PILLAR.
+
+CROMER, NORFOLK.
+
+HULL--KINGSTON-ON-HULL.
+
+BURLINGTON QUAY.
+
+FLAMBOROUGH-HEAD, WITH THE LIGHTHOUSE.
+
+SCARBOROUGH, WITH THE HARBOUR, CASTLE, &c.
+
+WHITBY, WITH MONASTIC RUINS.
+
+------- FROM THE NORTH-WEST.
+
+ROBIN HOOD'S BAY, YORKSHIRE.
+
+HARTLEPOOL.
+
+SUNDERLAND, WITH THE LIGHTHOUSE, SOUTH PIER.
+
+----------- THE BRIDGE FROM THE WEST.
+
+SHIELDS, ENTRANCE TO THE HARBOUR.
+
+NEWCASTLE-UPON-TYNE, TOWN AND HARBOUR.
+
+BLYTH, NEAR THE HARBOUR.
+
+TYNEMOUTH CASTLE, WITH VESSEL ON THE ROCKS.
+
+CULLERCOATS.
+
+DUNSTANBOROUGH CASTLE, FROM THE EAST.
+
+---------------------- BY MOONLIGHT.
+
+BAMBOROUGH CASTLE, FROM THE SOUTH-EAST.
+
+------------------ FROM THE NORTH-WEST.
+
+CASTLE OF HOLY ISLAND AND ABBEY OF LINDISFARN.
+
+--------------------- FROM THE WESTWARD.
+
+BERWICK FROM THE SOUTH-EAST.
+
+LEITH, WITH THE DOCKS, AND EDINBURGH IN THE DISTANCE.
+
+NEWHAVEN, WITH THE PIERS, EDINBURGH.
+
+DUNDEE, ENTRANCE TO THE PORT.
+
+------- FROM THE FIFE SIDE OF THE TAY.
+
+ABBEY OF ARBROATH.
+
+MONTROSE, WITH THE HARBOUR AND CHAIN-BRIDGE.
+
+DUNNOTTAR CASTLE, NEAR STONEHAVEN.
+
+STONEHAVEN, WITH THE TOWN AND HARBOUR.
+
+ABERDEEN, ENTRANCE TO THE HARBOUR.
+
+--------- FROM ABOVE THE CHAIN-BRIDGE.
+
+--------- THE LIGHTHOUSE.
+
+SLAINES CASTLE, SEAT OF THE EARL OF ERROLL.
+
+BULLERS OF BUCHAN.
+
+PETERHEAD, TOWN, HARBOUR, AND LIGHTHOUSE.
+
+MACDUFF, TOWN AND HARBOUR.
+
+BANFF.
+
+PORT-GLASGOW, WITH THE PIER AND DOCKS.
+
+GREENOCK, WITH THE CUSTOM-HOUSE.
+
+BROOMIELAW, WITH THE NEW BRIDGE, GLASGOW.
+
+THE SOLWAY, VIEW ACROSS THE FRITH.
+
+ALLONBY, WATERING-PLACE, WITH FISHING-BOATS.
+
+MARYPORT, TOWN AND HARBOUR, ENGLISH COAST.
+
+MARYPORT-PIER, IN A STORM.
+
+WORKINGTON, CUMBERLAND.
+
+WHITEHAVEN, CUMBERLAND.
+
+----------- THE HARBOUR.
+
+ST. BEES' COLLEGE, WITH THE VILLAGE.
+
+ST. BEES' HEAD AND LIGHTHOUSE.
+
+FLEETWOOD-ON-WYRE.
+
+BLACKPOOL, WATERING-PLACE.
+
+BLACKPOOL SANDS.
+
+LYTHAM, LANCASHIRE.
+
+SOUTHPORT SANDS, LANCASHIRE.
+
+
+
+
+THE
+
+PORTS AND HARBOURS
+
+OF
+
+GREAT BRITAIN.
+
+
+
+
+TYNEMOUTH LIGHTHOUSE AND PRIORY.
+
+
+Our present engraving is a view of Tynemouth Lighthouse and Priory, with
+the life-boat in the act of saving the crew of a vessel, which has
+struck upon the rocks at the foot of the cliff on which the lighthouse
+is built. This incident, so effectively and appropriately introduced by
+the artist, Balmer, who has frequently witnessed the scene which he has
+depicted, is peculiarly characteristic of the neighbourhood of
+Tynemouth; for, in consequence of the danger of the entrance to Shields
+Harbour in stormy weather, with the wind from the eastward, more vessels
+are there lost than at the entrance of any other harbour in Great
+Britain; and in no part of the kingdom has the value of the life-boat
+been more frequently experienced.
+
+The view is taken from the entrance to Shields Harbour, about half a
+mile to the south-west of the lighthouse, which is seen rising from
+behind the extremity of the cliff which overlooks the entrance to
+Prior's Haven. Towards the centre of the land view are the ruins of
+Tynemouth Priory; while farther to the left, in the same distance, is
+seen the castle, now modernised and occupied as a garrison. The
+fore-ground to the left is the bank which forms the south-western
+boundary of Prior's Haven; and the rocks which are seen at its foot are
+a portion of the formidable _Black Middens_, which lie on the north side
+of the entrance to the harbour.
+
+The principal feature of the engraving under observation is the view of
+the life-boat, which is introduced with a thorough knowledge of the
+subject, and with a feeling and a character of truth which mere
+imagination can never inspire. The downward plunge of a boat's bows
+among broken water, while her stern is at the same time elevated by a
+slanting wave, was never more happily represented. A person who has been
+at sea, may almost fancy that he hears the resounding dash of the water
+against the curved bow, and the seething of the angry wave as it rises
+on each side. The idea of motion is admirably conveyed in the
+representation of the wave lashing over the floating mast, which is
+tossed about like a light spar by the violence of the sea; and the
+continued inward roll of the water, from the side and bow of the boat
+towards the shore, is no less naturally expressed.
+
+Part of the life-boat's crew, with most of the oars double-manned, are
+seen "giving way," with strenuous efforts, through the breakers, while
+others are endeavouring to save the shipwrecked seamen; and one of the
+men at the steer-oar appears to be encouraging the sailor who clings to
+the floating mast. The position of the boat, with her stem towards the
+harbour, and the shipwrecked men seated towards her stern, indicate that
+she is returning from the vessel, the top of whose masts are seen, and
+that she is now endeavouring to save such men as were washed overboard
+when the vessel sunk. The flying of the spray declares the loudness of
+the wind; and though a cheering glimpse of sunshine appears to illumine
+the land, yet the dark cloud, which seems to rest upon the waters to the
+right, sufficiently informs us of the gloominess of the prospect when
+looking towards the sea.
+
+In consequence of a bar of sand, which stretches across the mouth of the
+Tyne, where the outward current of the river at ebb tide is met by the
+inward roll of the sea; and from the Herd Sand on the south, and the
+Black Middens on the north, the entrance to Shields Harbour is attended
+with great danger when the wind is blowing hard from the eastward and a
+heavy sea running. In crossing the bar, at such a time, a loaden ship,
+with rather a heavy draught of water, will sometimes strike, and unship
+her rudder; and a light one, in consequence of being struck by a heavy
+sea will sometimes broach to. A vessel thus rendered unmanageable, is
+almost certain, with the wind from the north-east and a flood tide, to
+be driven on the Herd Sand; and, should the wind be blowing strong from
+the south-east, she is extremely liable to be thrown either on the Black
+Middens or on the rocks at the foot of Tynemouth Castle; more especially
+in attempting to gain the harbour after the tide has begun to ebb. In
+the latter case, when vessels have been too late to save tide and are
+land-locked, and when it may seem less hazardous to attempt to pass the
+bar than to bring up, with evening approaching, on a lee shore, the
+danger of being wrecked on the rocks to the northward is more especially
+imminent.
+
+
+
+
+LONDON:
+
+THE BRIDGES OF LONDON, SOUTHWARK, AND BLACKFRIARS, FROM THE SURREY SIDE.
+
+
+    "O could I flow like thee, and make thy stream
+    My great example as it is my theme;
+    Though deep, yet buoyant,--gentle, yet not dull,--
+    Strong, without rage,--without o'erflowing, full."
+
+        DENHAM.
+
+
+The New London Bridge, which forms so striking a feature in this View,
+is justly considered the finest specimen of bridge-building in Europe.
+It is alike the admiration of strangers and natives, and unites in the
+highest degree the useful and ornamental--elegance of design with
+solidity of structure. The first pile of this superb structure was
+driven on the 15th of March, 1824; and on the 27th of April, the
+following year, the first stone was laid by his Royal Highness the Duke
+of York, attended by the Lord Mayor, a distinguished party of noblemen,
+gentlemen, and citizens, and a great concourse of strangers, who had
+assembled to witness the imposing ceremony. The contracts amounted to
+five hundred and six thousand pounds, but the total expenditure more
+than trebled that sum. The clear water-way is six hundred and ninety
+feet out of seven hundred and eighty-two--the actual width. The
+carriage-way is thirty-five feet wide, and the foot-paths nine feet
+each. The central arch, of the five of which it consists, is one hundred
+and fifty-two feet in span--one of the largest ever known--it is
+twenty-nine feet and a half in height; and there is no _weir_, or fall,
+as in the Old London Bridge. We are thus particular in the measurements
+that the reader may more readily comprehend the magnificent scale upon
+which this great national structure has been finished; and it may be an
+additional facility to this purpose to state, that of granite alone one
+hundred and twenty thousand tons were consumed in the building.
+
+After six years of incessant labour, it was happily brought to a
+successful termination under the direction of the late John Rennie,
+Esq., of whose genius as an architect it is a splendid monument. The
+opening of the bridge took place on the 1st of August, 1831, and gave
+occasion to a magnificent festival, which was honoured with the presence
+of his late Majesty William the Fourth and Queen Adelaide, the Lord
+Mayor, and all most remarkable for rank and station who were at that
+time in London. The ceremony was of the most gorgeous and gratifying
+description; and the water-pageant which accompanied it was the finest
+ever remembered on the Thames. The bridge was lined with tents and
+marquees, from which proudly floated the national standard, with
+numerous flags of societies and corporations, which gave the whole a
+strikingly gala-like effect. Under these a superb _dejeuner_, consisting
+of all the luxuries of the season, was served to the numerous assembly;
+and, to give additional novelty to the scene, Mr. C. Green, the
+celebrated aeronaut, ascended from the bridge in his balloon, much to
+the gratification of the spectators.
+
+Immediately adjoining the Bridge, on the right, is the Steam-packet
+Wharf, which, from the constant landing and embarkation of passengers to
+and from all parts of the river, is a scene of uninterrupted stir and
+animation. On the left are the Bridges of Southwark and Blackfriars,
+with the magnificent Cathedral of St. Paul's in the centre of the
+picture.
+
+The Monument (a conspicuous object on the right hand of the engraving)
+is a magnificent pillar, erected to commemorate the great fire of the
+city of London, in 1666, on the spot where it first began. It is of the
+fluted Doric order, and the material employed in its erection is
+Portland-stone of the best quality. It is one of the boldest specimens
+of the kind ever attempted, being two hundred and two feet in height,
+and fifteen in diameter, and stands on a pedestal forty feet high and
+twenty-one feet square; and within the shaft is a spiral staircase,
+consisting of three hundred and forty-five steps, formed of black
+marble. It was begun in 1671, but not completed till seven years after,
+as the great demand for stone in the restoration of London and the
+Cathedral of St. Paul's absorbed nearly all that the Portland quarries
+could furnish. Mr. Elmes, in his _Life of Sir Christopher Wren_, informs
+us that the Monument was at first used by the members of the Royal
+Society for astronomical experiments; but was abandoned on account of
+its vibrations being too great for the nicety required in their
+observations. This occasioned a report--extensively circulated at one
+time--that it was unsafe; but its sound foundation and scientific
+construction may bid defiance to all attacks, but those of earthquakes,
+for centuries to come.
+
+This View of the Metropolis, from Southwark, is exceedingly grand and
+impressive, and presents a faithful picture of the every-day scenes
+which are here passing before the eyes of the spectator--dazzling his
+eye, and filling his mind with those images of unbounded wealth, power,
+and magnificence, of which there is no precedent in ancient or modern
+history.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: HARWICH.
+
+_ESSEX._]
+
+
+
+
+HARWICH.
+
+
+Harwich is in the county of Essex, and lies on the south side of the
+estuary formed by the confluence of the Stour and the Orwell, about
+sixty-two miles to the north-eastward of London. The view in the
+engraving is taken from the southward, and comprises three of the most
+conspicuous objects in the town--the church, which is of modern
+erection, and the upper and the lower light-houses. In the distance, to
+the right, is perceived Landguard Fort, which lies on the Suffolk shore,
+on the opposite side of the channel.
+
+In 1318, Harwich was incorporated by Edward II., at the request of his
+brother, Thomas de Brotherton, Earl of Norfolk. In 1347, the town
+supplied 14 ships and 183 mariners to the grand fleet of Edward III.;
+and in the 17th and 18th years of that king's reign, Harwich returned
+two members to Parliament; but the exercise of this privilege was
+discontinued till 1616, when it was restored by James I.
+
+The trade of Harwich never appears to have been extensive; and its
+prosperity seems to have greatly depended on the Post-office packets,
+which formerly used to sail from the place with passengers and letters
+for the northern parts of Europe. The introduction of steam-packets has,
+however, rendered Harwich a place of no further importance as a
+packet-station, and for several years past the town has been in a
+declining state. The fishery, which formerly contributed to the
+prosperity of the place, has greatly diminished since the commencement
+of the present century. Harwich is the only harbour between Yarmouth
+Roads and the mouth of the Thames that is capable of affording refuge,
+in gales of wind from the eastward, to vessels navigating the eastern
+coast. During the prevalence of strong north-east winds, sometimes from
+200 to 300 light colliers, and other vessels proceeding northward, are
+to be seen anchored in the harbour.
+
+On the south of the town a cliff divides Orwell Haven from the bay, that
+extends to Walton-on-Naze. This cliff is observed to be constantly
+giving way to the action of the sea, which, it is expected, will at some
+future period force a passage to the opposite shore, and insulate
+Harwich and its vicinity. The cliff contains many acres of land, and its
+greatest height is about fifty feet. At the bottom, a bed of clay, of a
+bluish colour, about one foot thick, is succeeded by a bed of stone of
+nearly the same colour and thickness. Within the latter, shells and
+petrifactions, of various descriptions, have been found embedded. Above
+the stone are several beds of clay similar to that under the stone,
+rising to more than twenty feet. This clay, on exposure to the air,
+hardens into stone, and the streets of Harwich are paved with it. The
+town walls were formed of this material, as were also the castles of
+Orford and Framlingham.
+
+During the fashionable season the town is visited for sea-bathing, and
+excellent accommodations are now provided, bathing-machines having been
+introduced, and the private baths rendered most convenient. They stand
+in a large reservoir of sea water, which is changed at every tide, and
+supplied with fresh water every hour, by a contrivance on the principle
+of a natural syphon. In some of these baths, the water is made hot for
+invalids, who, if they have neither strength nor courage to plunge
+themselves into the water, are assisted with a chair. There are also
+vapour baths, and machinery to throw the sea water, either hot or cold,
+on any part of the body.
+
+There is a delightful walk, called "the Lawn," much frequented in fine
+weather as a promenade; and not far distant from it is the Beacon Cliff,
+on which were formerly the signal-house and telegraph, which were, some
+time ago, destroyed by the encroachments of the sea. This eminence
+commands a grand, interesting, and extensive prospect. Parties are also
+frequently made by the visitors for sailing or steaming up the Orwell
+and Stour, and making excursions on the bosom of the ocean. The scenery
+of the Orwell possesses peculiar interest, the banks being studded with
+elegant villas and pleasure grounds.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: YARMOUTH.
+
+_NORFOLK._]
+
+
+
+
+YARMOUTH.
+
+
+Yarmouth, in the county of Norfolk, sometimes called Great Yarmouth, to
+distinguish it from Yarmouth in the Isle of Wight, lies about 123 miles
+north-east of London, and about twenty-four to the eastward of Norwich.
+In the Vignette Engraving, from a beautiful painting by E. W. Cooke, the
+view is taken from the shore a little to the northward of the Jetty,
+which is seen extending into the sea. Nearly in the centre of the
+engraving is seen the column erected by the county of Norfolk to the
+memory of Nelson; and to the right are perceived several _look-outs_,
+like so many elevated scaffolds, from which, as the shore is very low,
+the pilots are enabled to take a wider survey when looking out for ships
+which may require their assistance.
+
+The name of Yarmouth obviously alludes to the situation of the town near
+the mouth of the river Yare; the word Yare, according to Druery, in his
+_Historical Notices of Great Yarmouth_, is derived from the Celtic
+_Iar_, dark, supposed to have been given to this river from the dark
+colour of its waters. According to Sir Henry Spelman, the ground on
+which Yarmouth stands became firm and habitable in the year 1008, from
+the recession of the sea, and the accumulation of the sands. If this
+account be correct, it would appear that the town began to be built
+almost immediately afterwards; for in the _Domesday-book_, which was
+compiled between 1080 and 1086, the place is mentioned, with the usual
+carelessness of the Norman scribes, by the name of Cernemude; and the
+entry further records that the place had been held by King Edward [the
+Confessor], and that it "always had seventy burgesses."
+
+In 1208, Yarmouth received a charter of incorporation from King John;
+and the privileges of the town were confirmed and enlarged by several
+succeeding kings. In 1228, in the reign of Henry III., Yarmouth had
+become a considerable port, both for the importation and exportation of
+merchandize; and in a charter of Edward I., granted in 1306, it is
+especially mentioned as a place where fishing-vessels, from an early
+period, had been accustomed to land the herrings which they caught
+during the season of the fishery. In 1347, Yarmouth supplied 43 ships
+and 1,095 mariners to the grand fleet of Edward III. and in 1349, the
+town was visited by a dreadful plague, which carried off seven thousand
+of the inhabitants. In the 31st of Edward III., an act was passed
+regulating the annual herring fair at Yarmouth, and appointing it to be
+governed by the barons of the Cinque Ports, according to the composition
+made between them and the inhabitants of the town in the reign of Edward
+I., the king's grandfather. One William Beukelem, of Biervliet, in
+Flanders, who died in 1397, according to Anderson, in his _History of
+Commerce_, is said to have been the inventor of the method of pickling
+herrings: but this cannot be correct; for though he may have introduced
+some improvements in the mode of cleaning and barrelling the fish, the
+inhabitants of Yarmouth and other places on the eastern coast were
+accustomed both to pickle and smoke herrings long previous to the time
+when the practice is said to have been introduced by Beukelem. Yarmouth
+is still the principal place of resort on the eastern coast of England
+for vessels engaged in the herring fishery, which there commences about
+the 21st September, and concludes about the 14th December. Most of the
+Yorkshire five-man boats come to Yarmouth in the herring season, and
+make their fishery from that place, disposing of all the herrings which
+they catch to curers who live in the town.
+
+The quay at Yarmouth is one of the longest and most spacious of any in
+the kingdom; but from the shallowness of the entrance of the harbour,
+there being only fourteen feet of water on the bar at spring tides, the
+trade of the place is chiefly carried on in small vessels. It is high
+water in Yarmouth Roads at forty minutes past eight, and at Yarmouth
+Sands at thirty minutes past ten, on the full and change of the moon.
+
+The column erected to the memory of Nelson stands on the low sandy flat,
+called the Denes, to the south of the town. Its total height, including
+the basement and the figure of Britannia at the top, is 144 feet, and it
+is ascended by a staircase consisting of 217 steps. It forms a
+conspicuous object when seen from the sea; and to the crews of vessels
+passing through Yarmouth Roads it is a proud memento of Nelson's fame
+and the naval glory of their country.
+
+    "O England!--dearer far than life is dear,
+      If I forget thy prowess, never more
+    Be thy ungrateful son allowed to hear
+      Thy green leaves rustle, or thy torrents roar!"
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: THE QUAY, YARMOUTH.]
+
+
+
+
+YARMOUTH QUAY.
+
+
+    'Twas from the "craft of sail and oar"
+    That states and kingdoms sprang of yore;
+    When Commerce ceased to woo the wind,
+    Their wealth decreased--their power declin'd--
+    Then, thou who lov'st thy native shore,
+    Pray Heaven to bless "the sail and oar!"
+
+The subject of the annexed View, representing the Quay at Yarmouth,
+conveys a faithful idea of that interesting and important locality. It
+is considered by competent judges as the finest quay in England, and in
+point of length exceeds every other in the United Kingdom. It is one
+hundred and fifty yards in breadth, contains in its centre a delightful
+promenade--planted on each side with trees, protected from the east wind
+by a row of handsome and well-built houses--and presents in all its
+aspects a striking combination of commercial activity and ornamental
+beauty. To the elegant Town Hall, which occupies the centre of this
+space, and to other public buildings, we have briefly alluded elsewhere.
+As a grand panorama of commercial life, it would be difficult to point
+out a finer scene than what is every day presented on the Quay at
+Yarmouth. Its principal foreign connexion is with the Baltic; and its
+trade in coal, corn, and other merchandise, coastwise, is very
+extensive. By means of the navigable rivers Yare, Waveny, and Bure, it
+possesses great facilities of intercourse with the interior of the
+county.
+
+In Yarmouth Roads--so renowned for the safe riding they afford to
+shipping--the anchorage is extensive, and there is room for any number
+of ships. The Roadstead, however, is better calculated for summer than
+winter, for to large vessels it is only accessible in the daytime with
+safety.
+
+The trade for which Yarmouth is peculiarly noted is its fisheries, which
+are an unfailing source of wealth and employment to the inhabitants, and
+have proved an invaluable nursery for those hardy and gallant seamen who
+have so often fought and conquered in the battles of their country. The
+mackarel[1] fishery begins in the end of April, and ends in the
+beginning of July. The herring[2] fishery commences at Michaelmas, and
+continues till the end of November; during that interval, it affords
+constant employment to sixteen hundred fishermen, besides six or seven
+hundred men and women who are engaged in the curing-houses.[3] In
+addition to all these, many others are occupied in the various
+manufactures connected with the fishery--in the preparation of nets,
+rope, twine, baskets, coopering, &c.
+
+The number of registered vessels belonging to the Port of Yarmouth is
+about six hundred, exclusive of fishing-smacks and other small craft.
+Ship-building is carried on to a great extent; and the artificers in the
+various departments of the building-yards are considered eminently
+skilful. There are several private bonding-warehouses, besides that on
+the South Denes belonging to the Custom-house. On the North Denes are
+the silk-mills of Messrs. Grout and Co.; and on Cobham Island are
+considerable salt-works for the use of the town and fisheries. At South
+Town, or Little Yarmouth, the banks of the Yare--besides the handsome
+houses by which they are lined on the south--are occupied by docks,
+timber-wharfs, and shipbuilding-yards, in which a large proportion of
+the vessels belonging to Yarmouth are constructed and fitted out for
+sea.
+
+[1] Mackarel is found in large shoals, especially on the French and
+English coasts. This fish enters the English Channel in April, and, as
+the summer advances, is found on the coasts of Cornwall, Sussex,
+Normandy, Picardy, &c., where the fishing is most considerable.
+
+[2] Herrings are also remarkable as appearing in immense shoals--many
+miles in extent, and several fathoms in depth. Their presence is easily
+discovered by the flights of sea-fowl which accompany them, by the
+unctuous matter with which the water is covered, and in the night by the
+brilliant phosphoric light which they emit. They are very plentiful
+about the Orkney Isles in June and July, in the German Ocean in
+September and October, and in the English Channel in November and
+December.
+
+[3] The London fishmongers are said to prefer the Lowestoff herrings to
+those cured at Yarmouth, although they are generally retailed under the
+name of "Yarmouth Herrings."
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: YARMOUTH, WITH NELSON'S MONUMENT.
+
+(from the Lowestoft Road.)]
+
+
+
+
+YARMOUTH, WITH NELSON'S PILLAR,
+
+(FROM THE LOWESTOFT ROAD).
+
+
+    "A fertile soil, a fruitful sea,
+    And wealth amassed by Industry;
+    And patriot virtues that sustain
+    Their 'Meteor-flag' on land and main;
+    A scene where Nelson's gallant name
+    Is 'watch-word' to immortal fame:
+    And here,--with grateful triumph crown'd,--
+    Imparts a charm to all around."
+
+        YARMOUTH PILLAR.
+
+Yarmouth, as a market-town and sea-port, enjoys many natural advantages;
+and, aided by the public spirit of its inhabitants and a train of
+successful enterprise, has long enjoyed a well-merited distinction in
+the chart of the British Empire. It is a borough, both corporate and
+parliamentary, situated at the eastern extremity of the county, near the
+mouth of the river Yare, from which it derives its name, and which is
+navigable as far as Norwich. Joined by its tributaries, the Waveney and
+Bure, a short distance to the west of the town, in a fine sheet of water
+called the Breydon, it proceeds in a copious stream to the sea. The
+Waveney and the Bure are both navigable rivers--the former as far as
+Bungay, and the latter to Aylsham.
+
+The town, extending upwards of a mile along the river, from north to
+south, occupies an area of at least a hundred and thirty acres. On the
+western side it is bounded by the river, over which there is a handsome
+drawbridge, communicating with South Town or Little Yarmouth, one of its
+populous suburbs, where extensive business is carried on. The principal
+streets, running north and south--Regent-street and South-street
+excepted--are all indicative of the stir and animation which pervade
+every place of trade, and evince in their construction both taste and
+comfort, with an occasional air of the picturesque. The market-place of
+Yarmouth is extensive, covering an area of nearly three acres, and
+inclosed on the west side with a range of handsome and well-furnished
+shops.
+
+Among the public edifices of Yarmouth, which merit especial notice, is
+the Town Hall, which stands near the centre of the quay. It is an
+elegant modern structure, with a portico admirably proportioned, and
+supported by pillars of the Tuscan order. The interior consists of a
+noble room, finely designed and ornamented, with a richly embossed
+ceiling in stucco, from which are suspended three massive and superbly
+cut lustres, containing seventy-six lights, which are used on festive
+nights, when, with permission from the mayor, public assemblies are held
+within its walls. Over the chimney-piece is a full-length portrait of
+George III., in which is preserved a faithful resemblance of that
+sovereign. The theatre, erected about sixty years ago, and the
+bathing-establishment, with a spacious public room adjoining, where the
+company are supplied with refreshments, are among the other places of
+public resort. A jetty, twenty-four feet wide, secured by a strong
+railing, and extending four hundred and fifty-six feet into the sea, on
+piles of wood, forms a delightful promenade, where health of body and
+exhilaration of mind may be greatly promoted by the salubrious sea
+breezes by which it is constantly visited. Near this, and commanding a
+magnificent view over the German Ocean, the stranger is particularly
+struck with the appearance of a marine villa, which harmonises admirably
+with the scene.
+
+At a short distance from the pier is a noble pile of buildings,
+belonging to the barrack department and erected on a portion of the
+South Denes. In the centre of the latter rises the triumphal Pillar,
+which forms so striking a feature in the landscape, and awakens so many
+proud and heroic associations in the heart of the spectator. This
+monument, raised to commemorate in his native county the services of the
+immortal NELSON, is worthy of the virtue and valour it was designed to
+celebrate. It was erected in 1817, by W. Wilkins, Esq. Both in the
+design and execution great solicitude was evinced by the public that a
+monument, bearing the name of the greatest of our Naval Heroes, should
+present everything that classical taste and national gratitude could
+suggest--and in this respect his countrymen have been fully gratified.
+It is of the Doric order, fluted and ornamented with appropriate
+decorations and title-inscriptions--illustrating the Hero's most
+celebrated battles--and surmounted with a ball and an exquisitely cast
+figure of Britannia, supporting her trident and laurel wreath. The
+ascent is by an easy flight of two hundred and seventeen steps, and the
+whole is built of white Scottish marble. Its height from the ground is
+one hundred and forty-four feet; the diameter of the column or shaft is
+twelve feet six inches; and the pedestal is twenty-three feet square by
+twenty-seven feet in height.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: CROMER.]
+
+
+
+
+CROMER.
+
+
+Cromer is a fishing village, situated near the north-eastern extremity
+of the county of Norfolk. It lies about 129 miles north-north-east of
+London, and about 22 miles nearly due north of Norwich. The view in the
+engraving is taken from the sands, looking to the westward. Some years
+ago, part of the cliff, with two or three houses beyond those which are
+now seen standing on its extremity, fell down in consequence of the
+encroachments of the sea. At that time a subscription was entered into
+by the inhabitants of the place, and by several of the neighbouring
+gentry, for the purpose of forming a breakwater; for without some such
+protection it was apprehended that at no very distant period many more
+houses, with the fine old church, would fall a prey to the violence of
+the sea.
+
+It is supposed that Cromer was formerly a place of much greater
+importance than it is at present; and that at the time of the Domesday
+survey it was included in the town of Shipden, which, with its church,
+is supposed to have been destroyed by the sea in the reign of Henry IV.
+At low water many large portions of wall are to be seen, which have
+evidently formed part of the houses of the old town of Shipden. "The set
+of the great tidal current of the German Ocean," says Mr. R. C. Taylor,
+in his _Geology of East Norfolk_, "is from the north-west, along the
+eastern shores of this island. In their progress southward, the tides
+meet with an extensive obstruction in the projecting county of Norfolk.
+About twenty miles of its coast has been subjected, from time
+immemorial, to the abrasive action of ocean currents. The ancient
+villages of Shipden, Wimpwell, and Eccles, have disappeared; several
+manors, and large portions of neighbouring parishes, have, piece after
+piece, been swallowed up by the encroaching waves; and their site, some
+fathoms deep, now forms a part of the bed of the German Ocean."
+
+The sea in this neighbourhood, and on the whole of the Norfolk coast, is
+particularly dangerous. Between Flamborough and Spurn Heads, and
+Winterton Ness, the most easterly points of land on this side of the
+island (excepting the North Foreland), the land retreats inward, forming
+a large bay. If vessels leaving Flamborough Head proceed southward and
+meet with a hard gale from any point between north-east and south-east,
+or of leaving Yarmouth Roads, proceeding northwards, they are retarded
+by the wind blowing hard from the north-east; so that as they cannot
+weather Winterton Ness, they become embayed, and the only chance of
+safety is to run for Lynn Deeps, in attempting which they are in danger
+of foundering on the rocks near this town or stranding upon the flat
+shores between Cromer and Wells.
+
+Cromer is much frequented in summer by visitors for the sake of
+sea-bathing, for which the fine sandy beach to the eastward affords
+great convenience. It is a place of very little trade, and is chiefly
+dependent on the fishery. Cromer light-house stands on an eminence,
+about three-quarters of a mile to the eastward of the village. It is a
+revolving light, and is visible, in clear weather, at a distance of five
+or six leagues. It appears in its brightest state once in every minute,
+and then gradually becomes eclipsed.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: HULL.]
+
+
+
+
+KINGSTON-ON-HULL.
+
+
+Hull, though one of the most considerable ports of the kingdom, is also
+one of the least picturesque. From its low situation, little more of the
+town can be seen than the modern houses near the banks of the Humber;
+and though jetties, dock-gates, and pier-heads, are sometimes useful as
+accessories in a picture, yet where such occupy almost the entire line
+of the foreground, with a row of brick buildings behind them, the
+painter must manage his subject as he best can, and be content with
+giving correctly that which his art cannot improve:--"Res ipsa negat
+ornari." The view of Hull, from a painting by Balmer, is taken from the
+Humber, looking towards the north. Beyond the river-craft, which are
+seen in front, is the entrance to the Humber dock; and the jetty to the
+right, which appears crowded with people, is a favourite promenade with
+the inhabitants of Hull, who sometimes assemble there in crowds to watch
+the sailing and arrival of the steam-packets. The most distant building
+to the right is the citadel, at the entrance of the river Hull, which
+then discharges itself into the Humber. Towards the middle of the
+engraving is seen the tower of Trinity Church, the only object which, at
+the distance of a mile, commands the attention of the stranger, and
+gives an individual character to the river.
+
+The town of Hull, or, as it is sometimes called, Kingston-upon-Hull, is
+in the East Riding of Yorkshire, and lies about one hundred and seventy
+miles northward of London, and about thirty-nine to the south-east of
+York. On the south it is bounded by the Humber, and on the eastward by
+the small river Hull. The old town, which was formerly protected on the
+north and west by a wall running from the Hull to the Humber, is now
+wholly insular, as a line of wet-docks occupies the site of the old
+fortifications. The suburbs, of Sculcoates on the north, and Drypool on
+the east, may be considered as forming, with the old borough of Hull,
+but one large town.
+
+The Hull, which is but a small river, has its source near the village of
+Lissett, about five miles from Burlington, and after running about
+twenty-six miles, in a southern direction, discharges itself into the
+Humber, on the east side of the town to which it gives name. It is
+navigable for small craft as far as Elmotlands about sixteen miles from
+its mouth. It contains many fish, such as roach, perch gudgeon, eels,
+and pike; and Driffield Beck, one of its tributaries, is famed for the
+size and excellence of its trout.
+
+The Humber, which opposite to Hull, is nearly three miles broad, and
+about six fathoms deep in mid-channel, is formed by the junction of the
+Trent and the Ouse, about sixteen miles above Hull, and it discharges
+itself into the sea about twenty-four miles below that town. From the
+rapidity of the current, which at spring tides runs at the rate of five
+miles an hour, and from the numerous sand-banks which are in the river,
+the navigation of the Humber is both intricate and dangerous; for should
+a vessel get aground on one of the sands, she is extremely liable to be
+overset by the force of the tide. Such accidents are, indeed, by no
+means uncommon, for almost every year affords instances of vessels, both
+ships and river-craft, being lost in the Humber in this manner. In the
+upper part of the Humber, in the Trent, and in the Ouse between
+Trent-falls and Selby, the flood tide, more especially in a strong
+easterly wind, frequently rushes up the river like a wave, considerably
+raised above the water which it meets. This tidal wave is called by the
+people of Hull and its vicinity the "_Ager_,"--the _g_ being pronounced
+hard; and from the murmuring sound which it makes, as it rolls onward
+and dashes against the shore, it has been supposed that the river was
+called the "_Humber_." Drayton, in his Poly-Olbion, thus notices the
+"_Ager_," or as he spells it, the "Higre," in his description of the
+Humber:--
+
+    "For when my Higre comes, I make my either shore
+    Ever tremble with the sound that I afarre doe send."
+
+Taylor, the water-poet, observed this tidal wave in the estuary of the
+Wash below Boston:--
+
+    "It hath lesse mercy than beare, wolfe, or tyger,
+    And, in those countries it is called the Hyger."
+
+Dryden, who had noticed it in the river Trent, calls it the "_Eagre_."
+
+    "But like an Eagre rode in triumph o'er the tide."
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: BURLINGTON QUAY.]
+
+
+
+
+BURLINGTON QUAY.
+
+
+The Engraving of Burlington Quay, from a painting by Balmer, presents a
+view of the entrance to the Harbour from the eastward. To the right is
+seen the inner part of the Old Pier, as it appeared after the great
+storm of 17th and 18th February, 1836. In front are the houses at the
+end of Quay Street, and to the left is the South Pier; between this and
+the shore two ships are perceived aground at the entrance of the inner
+harbour, which is nearly dry at low water. In the storm above alluded
+to, great injury was done to the old North Pier, and part of one of the
+houses to the right was washed down by the violence of the sea.
+
+Burlington Quay lies about a mile to the north-east of the market-town
+of Burlington, and at the bottom of a bay of the same name. It is in the
+East Riding of Yorkshire, and is about two hundred and eight miles from
+London, forty from York, and twenty from Scarborough. The earliest
+mention of it as a harbour occurs in a mandate of King Stephen,
+addressed to the Sheriff of Yorkshire, commanding him to allow the Prior
+of Burlington to hold it on the same terms as Walter de Gaunt, and
+Gilbert, his ancestor, had held the same. During the time that it was in
+the possession of the Priors of Burlington, it seems to have been an
+inconsiderable place; but subsequently, as the coal trade between London
+and the northern parts of the kingdom increased, it began to be of
+greater importance as a harbour, in consequence of its affording shelter
+in stormy weather to vessels engaged in that trade. In 1546, an act was
+passed imposing a duty for erecting the piers and keeping them in
+repair; and, in 1614, a second act was passed, upon a petition from the
+merchants and ship-owners of the eastern coast, imposing a duty, for the
+same purposes, on all coals shipped at Newcastle. Since 1614, several
+other acts have been obtained, authorising the levy of duties and tolls
+for the purpose of improving the harbour and repairing the piers; and
+since 1816, the sum thus collected has averaged about L1,750 per annum.
+
+The harbour at Burlington Quay is almost entirely the work of art, as
+the small stream which there runs into the sea is scarcely sufficient to
+turn a mill. Its locality seems to render it one of the most appropriate
+stations for a harbour of refuge between the Frith of Forth and Yarmouth
+Roads, more especially in gales of wind from the north-eastward; but
+unfortunately it can only be entered by comparatively small vessels, as
+the depth of water at the entrance is only from ten to twelve feet at
+neap-tides, and from fourteen to sixteen feet at springs. The harbour is
+also so small, that fifty sail of colliers taking shelter there would
+render it extremely crowded.
+
+The history of Burlington Quay, considering it as a separate place from
+the town of Burlington, is extremely meagre. The most remarkable event
+which its annals record is the landing there of Henrietta Maria, Queen
+of Charles I., on her return, in 1643, from Holland, whither she had
+been to conduct her newly-married daughter to her husband, the Prince of
+Orange, and where she pledged part of the crown jewels in order to
+obtain money to purchase arms for the Royalists. The Queen, who was
+attended by a convoy of Dutch men-of-war, under the command of Admiral
+Van Tromp, landed at Burlington Quay, on the 22nd of February. The
+Parliamentary admiral, Batten, who had been cruising, with four ships,
+for the purpose of intercepting her, having received intelligence of her
+arrival, sailed into the bay and began to cannonade the town. Several of
+the shot struck the house in which the Queen was lodged, so that she was
+obliged to leave it, and take shelter in a ditch in a neighbouring
+field. A serjeant was killed near her, and the Parliamentary admiral
+continued his fire until the reflux of the tide and the threats of Van
+Tromp compelled him to desist.
+
+Burlington Quay is much frequented in summer as a bathing-place; and
+many persons prefer its quiet and retirement to the greater gaiety of
+Scarborough. The beach, to the northward of the quay, affords excellent
+opportunities for bathing, and the walks and rides in the vicinity are
+extremely pleasant. A visit to Flamborough Head, which is only about
+five miles distant, forms a highly interesting excursion either by land
+or water.
+
+The market-town of Burlington, or, as it is frequently spelled,
+Bridlington, is situated about a mile to the north-westward of the
+quay.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: FLAMBOROUGH HEAD.]
+
+
+
+
+FLAMBOROUGH HEAD.
+
+
+The view of Flamborough Head, drawn by Balmer, is taken from the cliffs
+to the north-west. To the left is the promontory properly called "The
+Head," at a short distance from which stands the lighthouse. Between the
+Head and the nearer cliffs is a small haven, which is used as a landing
+place by the fishermen of the village of Flamborough, which lies about a
+mile to the south-west of the lighthouse.
+
+Flamborough Head, which lies about eighteen miles southward of
+Scarborough, and four and a half miles northward of Burlington, is one
+of the most remarkable promontories on the eastern coast. It projects
+about five miles into the sea, from a line drawn between Burlington Quay
+and Filey; and its southern side forms the northern boundary of
+Burlington Bay. The cliffs, which are of limestone rock, are from three
+hundred to four hundred feet high, and their crumbling sides form the
+haunt and the breeding place of innumerable flocks of sea-birds: among
+which are cormorants, puffins, razor-bills, and guillemots, with gulls
+and terns of several species. Guillemots, which are here extremely
+numerous, are known to the seamen of Shields and Newcastle by the name
+of "Flamborough-head pilots," as their presence in considerable numbers
+is almost a certain indication of the ship being "off the Head." Great
+numbers of those feathered denizens of the cliff are killed every year
+by "parties of pleasure," from Burlington, Scarborough, and other
+places, who visit the "Head" for the sake of indulging in the heartless
+sport, which requires neither skill nor courage, of killing birds by
+wholesale. At the foot of the cliff, which to the north-west is much
+indented, there are several caverns and large insulated masses of rock.
+The largest of those caverns, called Robert Lyth's Hole, has two
+openings, the one communicating with the land and the other exposed to
+the sea. The roof, though low at the landward entrance, is in some
+places fifty feet high; and the view, looking through the rocky vault
+towards the sea, is extremely grand.
+
+Flamborough Head, which is a most important land-mark for vessels
+navigating the eastern coast, lies in 54 deg. 8' north latitude; longitude
+2' 30" west. A revolving light is displayed from the lighthouse from
+sunset to sunrise, and presents, first the appearance of two lights on
+the same tower, and next a brilliant red light. Each of those lights
+appears at intervals of two minutes; and after gradually attaining their
+greatest lustre, they in the same manner decline and become eclipsed.
+
+Between Flamborough Head and Burlington Quay, is situated Burlington
+Bay, a secure roadstead in north-east gales; and, during the prevalence
+of such winds, it is not unusual for three hundred ships to be riding
+there at the same time, sheltered from the violence of the wind and sea
+by the lofty promontory. On the south-east, the Bay is partially
+sheltered from the violence of the sea by the Smithwick Sands, which run
+nearly in a line with the coast, from Burlington Quay to Flamborough
+Head. At each extremity of those sands there is a channel leading into
+the Bay; that towards the Head is called the North Sea; and the other,
+towards Burlington, the South Sea. Though the Smithwick Sands
+effectually break the violence of the sea at low water, yet at high
+water, when they are covered to a considerable depth, the protection
+which they afford, in gales of wind from the south-eastward, is not to
+be depended on. Vessels, therefore, leave the Bay as soon as the wind
+changes to east or south-east, as it no longer affords them sufficient
+security; the protection of the Smithwick Sands not being equivalent to
+the risk of the lee-shore, to which they would be exposed in a gale from
+the south-east. Were the harbour of Burlington, which is situated to the
+westward of the Bay, enlarged and deepened, its importance, as a place
+of refuge for vessels compelled to leave the Bay from the wind changing
+to the eastward, would be very greatly increased. Could it be so
+enlarged as to admit one hundred vessels, of from 200 to 300 tons each,
+it would, with the Bay, afford a place of refuge in all storms from
+north-east to south-east, which are generally the most destructive on
+the eastern coast.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: SCARBOROUGH.]
+
+
+
+
+SCARBOROUGH.
+
+
+In this view of Scarborough, by Harding, which is taken from the
+southward, the most conspicuous object is the Lighthouse on the Old
+Pier, or, as it is sometimes called, Vincent's Pier, from the name of
+the engineer, by whom the outer portion was erected about the year 1750.
+Beyond the pier are seen the masts of vessels lying in the harbour; to
+the left are the houses, which are built near the shore between West
+Sand-gate and Bland's Cliff; and on the height are the barracks, with
+the ruins of the old castle, a little further distant, to the left.
+
+Though the name of Scarborough appears to be of Saxon origin, yet as the
+place is not mentioned in any author who wrote before the Conquest, nor
+in the Domesday-book, we cannot reasonably suppose it to have been of
+much importance, either during the Saxon period, or at the time when the
+Conqueror's survey was made. The castle of Scarborough was built about
+1163, by William le Gros, Earl of Albemarle and Holderness; and from
+that period the authentic history of the town commences. The castle is
+situated to the north-eastward of the town, and is built on the isthmus
+of a peninsula, which comprises an area of about sixteen acres, and is
+bounded on the north, east, and south by inaccessible cliffs, whose
+summits are about 300 feet above the level of the sea. The western
+boundary, overlooking the town, is also formed by an elevated rock; and
+the only means of approach to the castle is by a steep path near the
+edge of the cliff forming the north side of the isthmus. On passing
+through a gateway, and over a draw-bridge, we arrive at the castle,
+which, previous to the introduction of cannon, must have been almost
+impregnable. The keep or principal tower is ninety-seven feet high, and
+though greatly dilapidated, is yet a striking object, more especially
+when viewed from the sea, at about two miles' distance from the north
+cliff.
+
+There is no river at Scarborough; and the harbour, which is formed by
+the piers, is only accessible towards high water. It is high water at
+Scarborough at forty-five minutes past three o'clock at the full and
+change of the moon; and at spring tides there is about twenty-two feet
+water at the end of the pier. At night a light is shown from the
+lighthouse as long as there is twelve feet water at the entrance to the
+harbour; and during the same period a flag is hoisted by day.
+
+About 1620 the sanative virtues of the Spa-well were discovered by Mrs.
+Anne Farrow, who "sometimes walked along the shore, and observing the
+stones over which the water passed to have received a russet colour, and
+finding it to have an acid taste different from the common springs, and
+to receive a purple tincture from galls, thought it probably might have
+a medical property." The lady having tried the water herself, and
+persuaded others to do the same, it was in a short time pronounced an
+all-heal, and the people of the place took it as their usual physic.
+Before 1670 these waters had become celebrated, and many persons
+resorted to Scarborough for the sake of drinking them. Medical men,
+however, disagreed both as to their composition and effects; and the
+opinions of Dr. Witty, a resident physician, who recommended them in
+every case, were controverted by Mr. Simpson and Dr. George Tonstall.
+The latter says of the Spa-water, "The essence is fit for the cup of a
+prince; the _caput mortuum_, which is sand and clay, is fit for nothing
+but the bricklayer's trowel. Hence it doth follow that those who are
+weak in their digestive faculties, and strong in their distributive, may
+find good by drinking this water; but those who are weak in both will
+experience the contrary." From the following anecdote related by the
+doctor, we may infer that the spa-drinkers of that period were
+accustomed to indulge in rather copious draughts. "Mr. Westro came to us
+at Scarborough only to visit his friends, and the two or three days he
+drank the waters (_not above two quarts at a time_), did so far put him
+out of tune, that he made his complaint to me he could neither eat nor
+sleep; and it took me a week's time before I could reduce him to the
+state of health which he had before he meddled with the waters." He
+would have been a person of strong constitution indeed not to have been
+"put out of tune" by such drenching; and it is no small proof of Dr.
+Tonstall's skill that he should have been able to restore Mr. Westro the
+blessings of sound sleep and a good appetite in so short a time as a
+week. From the double advantage which Scarborough presents to visitors,
+of drinking the waters and enjoying the benefit of sea bathing, it is
+much frequented during the summer season; and a more agreeable place is
+not to be found on the coast betwixt the Humber and the Tyne.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: WHITBY.]
+
+
+
+
+WHITBY.
+
+
+This engraving of Whitby, from a drawing by Harding, presents a view of
+the entrance to the harbour, as seen from the northward. Towards the
+middle of the plate is seen the end of the east pier; on the top of the
+cliff are the ruins of the abbey and the parish church; while, farther
+to the right, part of the town is perceived.
+
+Whitby is in the North Riding of Yorkshire, and lies about 246 miles
+north of London, 22 north-north-west of Scarborough, and 47 north-east
+of York. It is chiefly built on the sloping banks of the river Esk, by
+which it is divided into two parts; that on the west side being the most
+populous. The opposite parts of the town are connected by means of a
+bridge, the middle of which is moveable for the purpose of allowing
+ships to pass through. In the old bridge, which has been pulled down,
+the opening in the middle was upon the principle of a drawbridge, in
+which the roadway is raised and lowered by means of beams and chains. At
+high-water the river above the bridge expands into a spacious harbour,
+where ships can lie in perfect security; but at ebb tide, except in the
+mid-channel, the harbour is nearly dry. In the outer harbour, as it is
+called, below the bridge, vessels cannot ride with safety in gales of
+wind upon the land.
+
+The piers at the entrance to Whitby harbour are not built and maintained
+at the sole expense of the place, but by a duty on coals shipped at
+Newcastle, Sunderland, Blyth, and their dependencies--Yarmouth vessels
+only being exempt--and the sum thus raised amounts to upwards of L2,000
+per annum. It is doubtless a great advantage to the people of Whitby to
+have their piers built and kept in repair at the expense of other ports;
+but it is equally certain that the same sum might be employed more to
+the advantage of those by whom it is paid in improving other
+places--Scarborough and Burlington, for instance--as harbours of refuge
+on the eastern coast. In a gale of wind from the eastward, Whitby is
+perhaps one of the most dangerous harbours that a vessel can attempt to
+take between Yarmouth roads and the Frith of Forth, and captains of
+coasting vessels cannot be too frequently warned to avoid it. As the
+flood tide sets strong to the southward across the entrance to the
+harbour, vessels in attempting to enter with a gale of wind from the
+north-east are extremely liable to be driven on the rocks and wrecked at
+the foot of the cliff beyond the east pier.
+
+A singular customary duty, called "making the penny-stake hedge," is
+annually performed at Whitby, by certain tenants of the Lord of the
+Manor. It consists in driving a certain number of stakes, which,
+according to the ancient prescribed form, were to be cut with a knife of
+the value of one penny, on the shore of the south side of the Esk, at
+low-water mark, at nine o'clock on the morning of the day before
+Ascension-day, while a man with a horn blows, "Out on you! Out on you!"
+to the shame of the persons whose duty it is to drive the stakes. When
+it shall be full sea or high-water at nine o'clock on the day of
+performing this service, it was to cease; but as Ascension-day is
+regulated by the change of the moon this can never happen. This custom
+is of great antiquity, as the _horngarth_, the enclosure formed by the
+stakes, is mentioned about 1315 in the registers of the Abbey, in an
+account of certain disputes between the abbot, Thomas de Malton, and
+Alexander de Percy, of Sneaton. Tradition reports that this custom was
+imposed as a penance on three persons of the families of Percy, Bruce,
+and Allatson, who held lands of the Abbey, for having killed a hermit in
+the chapel of Eskdale-side, when hunting a wild boar which had there
+taken refuge. The penance imposed was the tenure by which they and their
+successors were to hold the Abbey lands.
+
+Leland, who visited Whitby a few years before the suppression of the
+monastery, describes it as a "great fisher town;" and he mentions that
+when he was there a new quay and pier were in course of erection. Until
+the establishment of the alum works in its neighbourhood, towards the
+latter end of the reign of Queen Elizabeth, Whitby appears to have been
+a place of little trade. As this new branch of commerce extended, the
+trade and population of Whitby steadily increased until it has attained
+its present importance.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: WHITBY.
+
+_FROM THE NORTH WEST_]
+
+
+
+
+WHITBY,
+
+FROM THE NORTH-WEST.
+
+
+The view of Whitby from the north-west, by Balmer, is taken from the
+sands near Upgang, between Whitby and the village of Sandsend. From this
+point nearly the whole of the west pier is seen, extending directly from
+the shore, and having a light-house near its outer extremity. Beyond the
+pier, and on the other side of the river, are seen the houses built on
+the sloping side of the cliff, and on its top the ruins of Whitby abbey,
+which
+
+    "In solemn grandeur, calm and still,
+    O'erlook the restless flood."
+
+The first authentic notice that we have of Whitby, is contained in
+Bede's Ecclesiastical History. In the time of the venerable historian it
+was called in the Anglo-Saxon language _Streoneshalh_, a name which he
+interprets in Latin by the words _Sinus Fari_; that is, in English,
+"Light-house bay." Subsequently it received from the Danes its present
+name of Whitby, a word which is probably derived from _hvit_ or _whit_,
+white; and _by_, a dwelling, or in its more extended sense, a village or
+town. It has been supposed that this name might be given to the village
+in consequence of its being built chiefly with stone taken from the
+ruins of the monastic buildings; but the supposition is untenable,
+unless we at the same time presume that the stones, which were taken
+from buildings which had been destroyed by fire, were rendered white by
+being burnt. In Domesday Book the place appears to be called
+_Prestebi_--Priestby--as well as _Witeby_--Whitby. The name Priestby,
+which soon became obsolete, probably denoted that part of the village
+which lay on the east side of the Esk, and was more immediately
+dependent on the monastery.
+
+The abbey of Whitby, founded by St. Hilda in 658, acquired considerable
+importance as the residence of this saint, of whose miracles certain
+marvellous traditions are still current in this vicinity. At the
+dissolution, under Henry VIII., Richard Cholmley, Esq., obtained a lease
+for twenty-one years of the site of the abbey and several parcels of its
+lands. In 1550 those lands were sold by the crown to John, earl of
+Warwick, who again sold them to Sir John Yorke, of whom they were
+purchased by the original lessee, then Sir Richard Cholmley, in 1555.
+Since that time the property has continued in the family of Cholmley,
+who enjoy many valuable rights and privileges as lords of the manor of
+Whitby. On the dissolution of the monastery, the abbey was stripped of
+every thing that was valuable. The bells were taken down, and the church
+was unroofed for the sake of the timber and lead. The walls only were
+spared, as the cost of taking them down would probably have been greater
+than the value of the stones. Though time has destroyed much of Whitby
+Abbey, yet the ruins still form a conspicuous and interesting object
+when viewed from the sea. The tower, which for several preceding years
+had been in a tottering state, fell down 25th June, 1830. The parish
+church, a plain structure, probably founded about the beginning of the
+twelfth century, stands at a short distance to the north-westward of the
+abbey. The direct foot-way to the church-yard from the town is by a
+steep ascent of one hundred and ninety steps.
+
+It is worthy of remark that the number of ships registered at Whitby by
+no means affords a criterion of the trade of the place, for the greatest
+part of them are freighted to and from other ports. Perhaps no port in
+the kingdom presents so great a difference as Whitby between the number
+of ships registered at the port, and the number annually entered and
+cleared. This discrepancy between the trade and the tonnage of the port
+arises from the circumstance of many wealthy persons who live there
+having their ships built and registered at Whitby, but chiefly employed,
+on freight, in the trade of other places. When speaking of the shipping
+of Whitby, it would be unpardonable not to mention that Captain James
+Cook one of the most distinguished of British circumnavigators, served
+an apprenticeship in a vessel belonging to that port.
+
+The principal trades carried on at Whitby are ship-building, and the
+manufacture of sail-cloth. Its chief imports are coals from Newcastle
+and Sunderland, and timber, hemp, flax, tar, iron, and tallow, from the
+Baltic. Alum manufactured in the neighbourhood is shipped at Whitby, but
+the principal article of export is at present stones for building, of
+which great quantities are sent to London.
+
+From the light-house, on the western pier, a tide-light is displayed at
+night time, as long as there is eight feet water on the bar. The light
+is stationary, and is visible at the distance of two leagues in clear
+weather. During the same period of tide, in the day, a flag is hoisted
+on the west cliff. It is high water at Whitby pier at forty minutes past
+three o'clock at the full and change of the moon.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: ROBIN HOOD'S BAY.]
+
+
+
+
+ROBIN HOOD'S BAY.
+
+
+The above is the name of a fine bay on the Yorkshire coast, between
+Whitby and Scarborough, and also of the fishing village, situated
+towards its northern extremity. In the view, which is taken from the
+north, several of the houses are seen standing upon the very edge of the
+cliff. The promontory to the left is called Ravenhill, and forms the
+south-eastern extremity of the bay. From an inscription dug up at
+Ravenhill in 1774, it appears that there had formerly been a Roman camp
+there.
+
+The ancient name of the bay was Fyling, and from what reason or at what
+period it first received the name of Robin Hood's Bay is uncertain. That
+it ever was the resort of the famed outlaw of that name is extremely
+questionable; although two or three tumuli on the moor, about two miles
+to the southward of the village, are said to be the butts, in shooting
+at which he exercised his men in archery. Near Whitby Lathes, about five
+miles to the north-west of Robin Hood's Bay, are two upright stones,
+which are said to mark the spots where the arrows of the bold robber of
+Sherwood Forest, and his man Little John, fell, when, in a trial of
+strength, they discharged them from the top of Whitby Abbey in the
+presence of the abbot. As the distance from these stones to the abbey is
+rather more than a mile and a half, it is evident that a _long_ bow must
+have been drawn by some one, if not by Robin Hood. It has been supposed
+that the place was originally called Robin Wood's Bay, from a fisherman
+of that name, who formerly resided there; but this conjecture rests on
+no better ground than the fact of two or three fishermen of the name of
+Wood having lived there in modern times. A family of fishermen of the
+name of Wood, with whom "Zebedee" appears to have been a favourite
+"fore-name," have resided at Runswick, a fishing village, about seven
+miles northward of Whitby, for several generations.
+
+Leland, in his Itinerary, written about three hundred years ago, calls
+the village by its present name, Robin Hood's Bay, and describes it as
+"a fisher townlet of twenty boats." It is still, as in his time, almost
+entirely inhabited by fishermen. The houses forming the principal street
+are built on each side of a steep road, leading down to the shore; while
+others, as may be seen in the view, are built upon the very extremity of
+the cliff. The approach to the village is by a steep descent, which is
+extremely inconvenient for carriages. It is about fourteen miles
+north-west of Scarborough, and seven south-east of Whitby; and the
+population is about a thousand.
+
+Robin Hood's Bay, Filey, Runswick, and Staithes, are the principal
+fishing villages on the Yorkshire coast. Filey is about eight miles
+south of Scarborough; Runswick, as has been previously observed, is
+about seven miles northward of Whitby; and Staithes is about three miles
+northward of Runswick. At each of those places the fishery is carried on
+both by cobles and by five-man boats. At most of the other fishing
+stations on the Yorkshire coast cobles only are employed. A description
+of the last named species will be found in our notice of Bambrough from
+the South-east; and of the five-man boats, we propose to say a few words
+on the present occasion.
+
+The vessels now called five-man boats are about forty-six feet long,
+sixteen feet eight inches broad, and six feet three inches deep. They
+are clinker-built, sharp at the bows, and have a deck with a large
+hatchway in midships, and a cabin towards the stern for the men. They
+have three masts, on each of which they carry a lug sail. Their other
+sails are a jib, and, in fine weather, a top-sail set on a shifting
+topmast, above the main-mast. As the sails are all tanned, a five-man
+boat forms a picturesque object at sea, more especially when viewed in
+contrast with a square-rigged vessel with white sails. The crew of each
+five-man boat consists of seven persons, five of whom, called
+_shares-men_ have equal shares of the proceeds of the voyage, or the
+season, after the boat's share is paid. The sixth person is often a
+young man who receives half a share, and is a kind of apprentice to the
+captain or owner of the boat. The seventh is generally hired at a
+certain sum per week, and not sharing in the profits of the fishery.
+
+To each five-man boat there are two cobles, which in proceeding to the
+fishing ground are generally hauled up on the deck. On arriving at the
+place where it is intended to fish, the boat is anchored, and the cobles
+being launched, three men proceed in each to shoot their lines, while
+one remains on board. The lines used for this more distant fishery are
+called _haavres_. They are about the same length as those used in the
+coble fishery nearer the shore, though thicker, and having the hooks
+placed at greater intervals. As the six men who fish have each two sets
+of lines, they are thus enabled to shoot one set immediately after they
+have hauled the other. In the five-man-boat fishery the hooks are always
+baited at sea.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: HARTLEPOOL.]
+
+
+
+
+HARTLEPOOL.
+
+
+The view of Hartlepool, painted by T. Creswick, from a drawing by G.
+Balmer, is taken from the northward. To the right, between the
+foreground and the town, are seen the sands of what is called the
+"Slake;" to the left are the cliffs, at the foot of which are the
+excavations called "Fairy Coves;" and beyond the town part of the
+southern coast of Durham is perceived, which extends from Hartlepool
+southward to the mouth of the Tees. The figures in the foreground are
+characteristic of the place; for there is no obtaining a view of
+Hartlepool from the land-side without seeing a group of fishwomen.
+
+The town of Hartlepool stands on a small peninsula on the southern coast
+of Durham, and is about nine miles north-east of Stockton-upon-Tees.
+From the "Slake," or Pool, which is between the town and the mainland to
+the west, it probably received the appellation of "_Le Poole_," to
+distinguish it from the village of Hart, which is about four miles and a
+half to the north-west. The word Hart, according to Ducange, signified,
+in Teutonic, a forest; and, if the name of the parish of Hart be of the
+same origin, the reason why the place should have been so called is
+obvious. The old town-seal of Hartlepool contains a rebus of the name--a
+hart up to his knees in a pool--which assigns to the first part of it a
+different etymology. Previous to receiving the name of Hartlepool the
+place was called Heortu, and sometimes Heortness; the terminating _u_ is
+perhaps an abbreviation of _eau_, water; and the name Heortu synonymous
+with Hart-le-pool. The termination _ness_ is expressive of the place
+being built on a point of land which projects into the sea. "At or near
+this place," says Bishop Tanner, in the _Notitia Monastica_, "was the
+ancient monastery called Heorthu, founded upon the first conversion of
+the Northumbrians to Christianity, about A.D. 640, by a religious woman
+named Hieu, or, as some have it, St. Bega, whereof St. Hilda was some
+time abbess." This ancient convent was destroyed by the Danes about 800,
+and its site is now unknown, though it is supposed to have stood on the
+spot which was subsequently occupied by a Franciscan monastery, founded
+by one of the Bruce family about 1250, and suppressed by Henry VIII. Of
+this monastery or its church there is at present no part remaining,
+though some old houses, called the Friary, probably built out of the
+ruins, still indicate its situation. The church of Hartlepool, which is
+dedicated to St. Hilda, is a large building, and, from the various
+styles of its architecture, has evidently been built at different
+periods.
+
+About the time of the Conquest, the manors of Hart and Hartness belonged
+to Fulk de Panell; and, upon the marriage of his daughter Agnes with
+Robert de Brus, one of the Norman followers of William I., they came,
+with other rich manors in Yorkshire and in Durham, into the possession
+of that family. Upon Robert Bruce, a descendant of the above-named
+Robert de Brus, succeeding to the crown of Scotland in 1306, all his
+English estates were confiscated by Edward I., who granted the manor of
+Hart and the borough of Hartlepool to Robert de Clifford, "saving the
+rights of the Bishops of Durham," under whom, since 1189, the property
+had been held.
+
+In 1201, King John granted a charter to Hartlepool, conferring upon the
+burgesses the same privileges as those of Newcastle-upon-Tyne; and in
+1230, Richard le Poor, Bishop of Durham, granted another charter,
+appointing a mayor and other officers for the government of the town. In
+1593, Queen Elizabeth granted a new charter, under which the affairs of
+the borough have been since regulated.
+
+From the reign of King John to that of James I., Hartlepool was the most
+considerable port in the county of Durham; but from the latter period
+till about seven years ago, its importance as a place of trade appears
+to have greatly declined: and from 1730 to 1832, its condition was that
+of a small fishing town, scarcely visited by any ships, except colliers
+belonging to Sunderland and Newcastle, which occasionally sought refuge
+in its harbour during a storm. In 1832, a bill was obtained for the
+purpose of improving the harbour and forming a dock at Hartlepool; and
+since that period a considerable portion of the projected works have
+been finished. A railway has since been formed, by which coals are
+brought to the town; and a considerable quantity are now shipped there
+for the London and other markets; and from the advantageous situation of
+the harbour, and the facility with which vessels can be loaded, there
+seems great probability of Hartlepool becoming, in a few years, one of
+the principal ports for the shipment of coals in the county of Durham.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: SUNDERLAND.
+
+_THE LIGHT HOUSE ON THE SOUTH PIER._]
+
+
+
+
+SUNDERLAND,
+
+THE LIGHTHOUSE ON THE SOUTH PIER.
+
+
+The view of the Lighthouse on Sunderland South Pier is taken from the
+south-east. The entrance to the harbour lies beyond the pier-head, to
+the right, on which a crane, and a capstan used in warping out ships,
+are perceived. The large D on the fore-topsail of the collier lying
+within the pier is a distinguishing mark adopted by the owner that his
+vessels may be more readily known. To the left is seen the higher
+lighthouse, of stone, which stands on the north pier, on the opposite
+side of the river.
+
+The erection of a pier on each side of the entrance to Sunderland
+harbour has been rendered necessary in consequence of the constant
+tendency of the bar of sand at its mouth to accumulate. The piers, by
+contracting the channel of the river, have deepened the water, and
+increased the velocity of the current at ebb tide, which thus scours the
+entrance to the harbour, and prevents the accumulation of sand upon the
+bar.
+
+In 1669, Charles II. granted letters patent to Edward Andrew, Esq.,
+empowering him to build a pier, erect lighthouses, and cleanse the
+harbour at Sunderland, and also to raise funds for these purposes by a
+tonnage-duty on ships. At a subsequent period, commissioners were
+appointed for the same purposes by an act of parliament; and under their
+authority three hundred and thirty-three yards of the north pier were
+built, between 1716 and 1746. From a report of the commissioners made in
+1765, it appears that L50,000 had been expended on the south pier up to
+that time, and it was estimated that to finish it would cost as much
+more. It is now extended to the length of six hundred and twenty-five
+yards. The north pier, which is entirely of stone, was commenced about
+1785, but additions have been recently made to its eastern extremity.
+
+The lighthouse on the north pier was erected in 1803. The light, which
+is stationary, is exhibited from sunset to sunrise, and is visible in
+clear weather at the distance of twelve miles. The light on the south
+pier is a tide light, and is only shown when there is sufficient depth
+of water on the bar for ships to enter. This light is of a red colour.
+By day a flag is hoisted during tide-time.
+
+Since the year 1200--and probably from a much earlier period--the
+harbour at the mouth of the Wear appears to have been generally known as
+that of Sunderland, the present name of the port and of the
+parliamentary borough. "Various conjectures," says Mr. Surtees, "have
+been formed as to the derivation of this name; the simplest and most
+obvious seems to be, that it marked the original situation of the place
+on a point of land almost insulated by the Wear and by the sea, which
+has probably flowed much higher than at present up some of the deep
+gullies on the coast, particularly Hendon-Dene, which, it seems,
+contained, as late as 1350, water sufficient for vessels to ride at
+anchor in the bay."
+
+In 1719 an express distinction was made by an act of parliament, which
+constituted Sunderland a separate parish from that of Bishop-Wearmouth,
+in which it had formerly been included. This act was passed on the
+petition of the inhabitants of Sunderland, who, between 1712 and 1719,
+had built a new church. The old church of Bishop-Wearmouth--which was
+pulled down and rebuilt in 1808--was probably founded shortly after the
+date of Athelstan's grant. The rectory of Sunderland is but slenderly
+endowed; that of Bishop-Wearmouth is one of the richest in the kingdom,
+and was at one period held by the Rev. Dr. Wellesley, a brother of the
+Duke of Wellington. Dr. Paley--whose "pigeon illustration," in his
+_Moral Philosophy_, of the basis of political authority, is said to have
+kept him out of a bishopric--was rewarded by Dr. Barrington, bishop of
+Durham, with the rectory of Bishop-Wearmouth, where he died in 1805.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: SUNDERLAND.
+
+(_THE BRIDGE FROM THE WESTWARD._)]
+
+
+
+
+SUNDERLAND.
+
+THE BRIDGE FROM THE WESTWARD.
+
+
+Under the general name of Sunderland, the three townships of
+Monk-Wearmouth, Bishop-Wearmouth, and Sunderland are usually comprised.
+Monk-Wearmouth is situated on the north side of the river Wear, at a
+short distance from its mouth. Sunderland and Bishop-Wearmouth, which
+form one continuous town, lie on the south side of the river;
+Sunderland, properly so called, extending from the line of junction of
+the two parishes, eastward to the sea; and Bishop-Wearmouth extending
+towards the west. Sunderland--which has given its name to the port and
+to the borough--is 269 miles distant from London; fourteen from Durham;
+and thirteen from Newcastle-on-Tyne.
+
+The great boast of Sunderland is the beautiful iron bridge, of a single
+arch, which connects it with Monk-Wearmouth. This noble structure, which
+is at once highly ornamental and useful, was projected by Rowland
+Burdon, Esq., of Castle Eden, who in 1792, he being then M.P. for the
+county of Durham, obtained an act of parliament empowering him to raise
+money for its erection; the sums advanced to be secured on the tolls,
+with five per cent. interest, and all further accumulation to go in
+discharge of the capital. The abutments, from which the arch springs,
+are nearly solid masses of masonry, twenty-four feet thick, forty-two
+feet broad at bottom, and thirty-seven feet broad at top. That on the
+south side is founded on a solid rock, which rises above the level of
+the Wear; the foundation of that on the north side, owing to the
+unfavourable nature of the ground, was obliged to be laid ten feet below
+the level of the river. The arch, which is a segment of a large circle,
+is of 236 feet span, and its centre is ninety-four feet above the level
+of the river at low water. From the height of the arch and its
+comparative flatness--its versed sine, or perpendicular height from its
+centre to a line joining its extremities, being only thirty-four
+feet--ships of 300 tons burden can pass underneath not only directly
+below the centre, but also to the extent of fifty feet on each side. The
+navigation of the river thus remains unobstructed--for many vessels
+proceed to the staiths above the bridge for the purpose of taking in
+their coals--while the inhabitants on each side enjoy all the advantages
+of facilitated intercourse. The breadth of the bridge at the top is
+thirty-two feet including the footpaths on each side; and the
+carriage-way is formed of lime, marl, and gravel, above a flooring of
+timber, which is laid across the iron ribs of the arch. The iron ribs
+and blocks were cast and prepared at the foundry of Messrs. Walker, at
+Rotherham, near Sheffield. The whole weight of the iron is 260 tons; of
+which 46 tons are malleable, and 214 cast. The foundation-stone[4] was
+laid on the 24th September, 1793, and the bridge opened to the public on
+the 9th August, 1796, having been completed under the superintendence of
+Mr. Thomas Wilson, of Bishop-Wearmouth, in less than three years. The
+total expense was L26,000, of which sum L22,000 was subscribed by Mr.
+Burdon.[5]
+
+Although many ships are loaded direct from such staiths as are at a
+short distance above the bridge, yet the greater part of the coals are
+brought down in keels from staiths situated higher up the river. The
+keels of the Wear, though of the same tonnage as those of the Tyne, are
+somewhat differently built, being flatter in the bottom, and of a
+lighter draught of water. The Sunderland keels are managed by only one
+man, who usually has a boy to assist him. In the Wear the coals when in
+bulk are cast from the keel into the ship by men called coal-casters;
+while on the Tyne, where the crew of each keel consists of three men and
+a boy, the coals are always cast by the keelmen. Within the last few
+years, a considerable quantity of coals, in order to prevent the
+breakage occasioned by discharging them into the keels from the spout,
+and then casting them into the ship, have been put on board the keels in
+_tubs_, which are afterwards raised by machinery to the vessel's deck,
+and then discharged into the hold. These tubs are exactly like coal
+waggons without their wheels, and contain the same quantity--one
+Newcastle chalder, or fifty-three cwt.[6] Each keel carries eight of
+these tubs. The number of keels employed on the Wear is above 500.
+
+[4] The inscription on the foundation-stone contains a bad pun: "Quo
+tempore civium Gallicorum ardor vesanus prava jubentium gentes turbavit
+Europeas _ferreo_ bello, Rolandus Burdon armiger, meliora colens, Vedrae
+ripas, scopulis praeruptis, ponte conjungere _ferreo_ statuit."
+
+[5] Surtees's Hist. of Durham, vol. 1, p. 226.
+
+[6] Evidence of Sir Cuthbert Sharp before the Lords' Committee on the
+Coal Trade, 1829, p. 23.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO SHIELDS HARBOUR.]
+
+
+
+
+SHIELDS.
+
+ENTRANCE TO THE HARBOUR.
+
+
+The view of the entrance to Shields Harbour is taken from the bank a
+little below the Spanish Battery, on the north side of the Tyne, and
+about a quarter of a mile to the south-westward of Tynemouth lighthouse.
+To the left, a part of South Shields is seen, with a vessel "dropping
+up" the Narrows, just before entering the harbour. Towards the middle of
+the Engraving are the two lighthouses at North Shields--distinguished by
+their flag-staffs--which, when taken in a line, are a guide for vessels
+in passing the bar. To the right of the low lighthouse is Clifford's
+Fort, enclosed by the line of embrasures, and commanding the entrance to
+the harbour. To the right are the banks, of clay, which extend from the
+Spanish Battery to the Low Lights, and upon which the sea is every year
+gradually making encroachments. The present Engraving, independent of
+its beauty as a work of art, possesses the merit of containing the only
+correct view of the entrance to Shields Harbour which has hitherto
+appeared.
+
+That portion of the river Tyne which may be considered as Shields
+Harbour is about a mile and a half in length, supposing it to commence
+at the Low Lights, on the north side, and to terminate at the lower end
+of Jarrow Slake, at the head of South Shields; its direction is from
+east by north to west by south; and the towns of North and South Shields
+are built on the banks and by the shore on each side of it. As the Low
+Lights are about a mile within the bar, the swell of the sea is not felt
+within the harbour.
+
+The river is of unequal width, being in some places not more than 400
+yards broad, while in others, when the sands are covered with the tide,
+its width is upwards of 600. From the shoals and varying width of the
+river, the velocity of the current differs with the breadth of the
+harbour. Opposite to the New Quay at North Shields, the average velocity
+in the middle of the tide-way is, at half flood, about three miles an
+hour; and, at half ebb, about three miles and three quarters an hour. As
+the easterly wind blows directly into the harbour, vessels formerly were
+often hindered from getting out to sea, even in fine weather, when the
+wind was in that quarter, more especially if they were of considerable
+draught of water; for frequently before such a vessel could drop down
+with the ebbing tide as far as the bar, there was not sufficient depth
+of water on it to allow her to proceed to sea. The general introduction,
+however, of steam-boats for the purpose of towing vessels, when the wind
+is shy or contrary, has, in a great measure, remedied this
+inconvenience, and vessels now proceed to sea at any time, in favourable
+weather, when there is a sufficient depth of water on the bar.
+
+The town of South Shields is very irregularly built; and the principal
+street for business extends from the market-place to the lower end of
+the town. The market-place, in the centre of which stands the town hall,
+is spacious, but the market is very indifferently supplied with every
+thing except fish. Westoe, anciently Wivestoe, is a pleasant village
+about a mile southward of South Shields, where several ship-owners and
+persons of property reside. Jarrow, so famous in days of yore for its
+monastery, is about a mile and a half to the westward of Westoe; and in
+the vestry an old chair is still preserved, which is said to have been
+the seat of the venerable Bede.
+
+The town of North Shields lies on the north side of the river Tyne, and
+is in the county of Northumberland. The principal street for business,
+and which may be considered as forming the greater part of the old town,
+is the Low-street, running nearly parallel with, and at a short distance
+from, the river, and extending from the New Quay to the Low Lights. The
+greater part of the town, which is built on the bank top, extending in
+regular streets towards the north, has been erected within the last
+fifty years.
+
+At the New Quay there is a commodious wharf, with warehouses at each
+end, where trading vessels load and unload, and where steam-boats leave
+for Newcastle. A little above the New Quay is the landing for the steam
+ferry-boat, which plies between North and South Shields, and leaves each
+place four times an hour, from seven in the morning till dusk, carrying
+passengers across the river at the charge of a penny each. This ferry,
+which was only established in 1829, is a great accommodation to both the
+towns. Previous to its establishment, the conveyance of sheep, cattle,
+and horses across the Tyne, in an awkward flat-bottomed boat, managed by
+a single man, was attended with great inconvenience. The barge steam
+ferry-boats now employed are surrounded with a strong railing; and
+sheep, cattle, and horses can be driven on board with little trouble,
+and conveyed across the river without risk.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: NEWCASTLE-UPON-TYNE.]
+
+
+
+
+NEWCASTLE UPON TYNE.
+
+
+The view of Newcastle is taken from the Gateshead shore, on the south
+side of the river Tyne, about a quarter of a mile below the bridge. From
+the point chosen by the artist, a better and more _characteristic_ view
+of the town is obtained than from any other station. The line of
+vessels, extending from the right of the engraving to the bridge,
+indicates the quay--the longest in England, except that of Yarmouth--and
+which, on a Saturday, when the country people come in to market, is one
+of the most crowded thoroughfares in the kingdom. The steeple that rises
+above the houses to the right is that of All Saints. Between All Saints
+and the Castle--which is distinguished by its modern turrets and
+battlements--is the famed steeple of St. Nicholas; this the Rev. Dr.
+Carlyle, vicar of Newcastle, in 1804, declared to be, in his opinion,
+"the most beautiful fabric existing in the world: surpassing the
+Cathedral of St. Sophia, at Constantinople; the Mosque of Sultan
+Saladin, at Jerusalem; the Church of St. Peter, at Rome; and even the
+Temple of Minerva, at Athens." The modern building, with a Grecian
+portico, in front of the Castle, is the County Court, where the assizes
+for the county of Northumberland are held. The Exchange is hidden by the
+sails of the large vessel, towards the middle of the engraving; and the
+bridge excludes a view of the Mansion House, which stands in friendly
+neighbourhood with a glass-house and a soapery, in a narrow street, with
+a most expressive name--the "Close."
+
+The town of Newcastle, though its present name is not older than the
+reign of William the Conqueror, claims to be a place of great antiquity.
+The Roman Wall--which extended from Wallsend, about four miles eastward
+of Newcastle, to Bowness on the Sands, in Cumberland--crossed the site
+of the present town; and it is certain that there was a Roman station
+here, the southern wall of which probably ran along the high ground
+overlooking the river in front of the old castle. In the list of
+stations, with their garrisons, on the line of the wall, as given in the
+_Notitia_, _Pons AElii_ occurs as the next station to _Segedunum_; and
+our best informed antiquaries appear to agree in assigning the latter
+name to the station at Wallsend, and the former to the station at
+Newcastle. The name _Pons AElii_, however, occurs in no other ancient
+work as the name of a station on the line of the wall, and no
+inscription has been discovered which might confirm the opinion of its
+being the name of the station at Newcastle. Different writers also have
+interpreted the list of stations in the _Notitia_ from different ends,
+and at the present time the situation of several places remains
+undecided.
+
+The Tyne is navigable as high up as Newcastle, about ten miles from its
+mouth, for vessels of 250 tons burden, though in some places between
+Newcastle and Shields, even in the middle of the stream, its depth does
+not exceed four feet at low water. A little below Hebburn quay, about
+half-way between Newcastle and Shields, it is not unusual to see three
+or four small steam-boats, which do not draw more than three feet water,
+lying aground in the very mid-channel at the last quarter ebb, and
+waiting for the flood tide to set them afloat. A few years ago, the
+corporation of Newcastle, as conservators of the river Tyne, employed a
+steam-boat to _scratch_ away the sand in shallow places, by means of a
+kind of harrow, which she towed after her. Since the accession of the
+present corporation to office, a dredging machine has been employed, and
+if they proceed in their plans for the improvement of the river as they
+have begun, they will merit the thanks of every person interested in the
+trade of the town.
+
+But, however praiseworthy may be their efforts for the deepening and
+cleansing the bed of the Tyne, the present year (1853) has exhibited
+melancholy testimony that the streets, lanes, and alleys of Newcastle
+call aloud for the expenditure of the municipal funds--if the lives of
+the inhabitants are not of less value than the commerce of the port. The
+ill-drained and badly-ventilated dwellings of some of the more
+densely-peopled portions of the town have suffered more from the attacks
+of cholera than any other place in the kingdom.
+
+The chief exports from Newcastle, besides coals, are pig and sheet lead;
+anchors, and chain cables, with other articles of wrought iron; bottles,
+plate and crown glass; brown and white paper; common leather gloves,
+manufactured at Hexham; leather; hams and butter; grindstones, obtained
+on Gateshead Fell; fire-bricks; alkalies; soap; and Epsom salts. This
+list comprises the principal articles which constitute the cargo of a
+Newcastle trading vessel proceeding to London.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: BLYTH.]
+
+
+
+
+BLYTH.
+
+
+The view of Blyth, or more properly of the entrance to the harbour, is
+taken from the north side of the river, and looking towards the
+south-east. The cottages seen in the foreground are in North Blyth,
+which consists only of a few houses, chiefly occupied by fishermen and
+pilots. On the opposite side of the river are seen the lighthouse of
+stone, and the "basket light" to the left of it, in which lights are
+exhibited at night when there is eight feet water on the bar.
+
+Blyth, which is a small seaport town on the coast of Northumberland, and
+about thirteen miles north-east of Newcastle, derives its name from the
+river Blyth, on the south side of which it is built. The principal trade
+of Blyth is in coals, of which more than 120,000 tons are now annually
+exported. The earliest notice of Blyth as a harbour occurs in _Bishop
+Hatfield's Survey_ in 1346, from which it appears that the Bishop of
+Durham claimed fourpence for every ship which anchored there, and that
+the sum received for that year was 3_s._ 4_d._ At what time the
+coal-trade was first established there is uncertain, but so early as
+1610 a complaint appears to have been made to Parliament on account of a
+late imposition of a shilling a chalder levied on coals shipped at Blyth
+and Sunderland, "not by virtue of any contract or grant, as in the coals
+of Newcastle, but under the mere pretext of his majesty's royal
+prerogative." In 1624, Blyth is again mentioned in a proclamation, as a
+place exporting sea-coals; and in 1643 an order of Parliament prohibits
+ships from bringing coals or salt from Newcastle or Blyth, as those
+places were then in the hands of the Royalists.
+
+Within the last forty years the trade of Blyth has much increased in
+consequence of the opening of new collieries in the neighbourhood. A
+commodious dry dock was formed in 1811; and there are several slips for
+the building and repairing of ships. A considerable quantity of articles
+of cast and malleable iron, manufactured at Bedlington, about three
+miles up the river, are shipped at Blyth.
+
+Blyth is a member of the port of Newcastle; and a number of vessels
+belonging to persons residing there are registered at the latter port.
+Nearly the whole of Blyth is the property of Sir M. Ridley, Bart. At
+spring tides there is about fourteen feet water on the bar, and about
+twelve at neaps; but at low water the bar is nearly dry.
+
+It may be interesting to contemplate a few facts and figures in
+connexion with that trade which forms the principal occupation of Blyth
+and its neighbouring ports. From the evidence of an experienced
+coal-engineer,[7] given a few years since before a Parliamentary
+Committee, we learn, "that the number of persons employed under-ground
+on the Tyne are--men, 4,937; boys, 3,554; together, 8,491:
+above-ground--men, 2,745; boys, 718; making 3,463: making the total
+employed in the mines above and below ground, 11,954, which in round
+numbers I call 12,000, because I am pretty sure there were some
+omissions in the returns. On the river Wear, I conceive there are 9,000
+employed; making 21,000 employed in digging the coal, and delivering it
+to the ships on the two rivers. From the best calculations I have been
+able to make, it would appear that, averaging the coasting-vessels that
+carry coals at the size of 220 London chaldrons each vessel, there would
+be 1,400 vessels employed, which would require 15,000 seamen and boys. I
+have made a summary. There are, seamen, 15,000; pitmen and above-ground
+people employed at the collieries, 21,000; keel-men, coal-boatmen,
+casters, and trimmers, 2,000: making the total number employed in what I
+call the Northern Coal Trade, 38,000. In London, whippers, lightermen,
+and so forth, 5,000; factors, agents, &c., on the Coal Exchange,
+2,500;-7,500 in all, in London. Making the grand total in the North
+country and London departments of the trade, 45,500. This does not, of
+course, include the persons employed at the outports in discharging the
+ships there."
+
+[7] Mr. Buddle, of Wallsend, whose statistics of the coal-trade have
+been quoted by McCulloch and other writers on the subject.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: TYNEMOUTH CASTLE.
+
+_VESSEL WRECKED ON THE ROCKS._]
+
+
+
+
+TYNEMOUTH.
+
+VESSEL ON THE ROCKS.
+
+
+The engraving presents a view of a vessel on the rocks, at the foot of
+the cliff, to the north-east of Tynemouth castle, as seen from the
+Ox-fall, in coming from Cullercoat Sands. On the top of the cliff is the
+lighthouse; in the foreground are various indications of a wreck;
+towards the middle of the engraving is the vessel "high and dry" upon
+the rocks; and in the distance, on the left hand, is seen Souter Point,
+in the county of Durham, about four miles distant from Tynemouth.
+
+The village of Tynemouth, which gives name to an extensive and populous
+parish, is situated near the mouth of the river Tyne, at the southern
+extremity of the county of Northumberland. It is a short mile distant
+from North Shields, about nine miles to the eastward of Newcastle, and
+two hundred and seventy-six from London. It consists chiefly of one wide
+street, which runs nearly east and west, with one or two smaller streets
+to the northward, nearly in the same direction.
+
+The ruins of Tynemouth priory, which, with the adjacent lighthouse, form
+one of the most conspicuous landmarks on the eastern coast of England,
+lie to the eastward of the village. The priory is built on a small rocky
+peninsula, which is bound, from south-west to north-east, by a steep and
+lofty cliff; and the entrance to this enclosure, which is of about six
+acres area, is through the gateway underneath the castle. The whole of
+the enclosed space is fortified according to the rules of modern
+defensive warfare, and a party of artillery are always stationed at the
+castle. There is a public walk round the whole of the castle-yard; and
+the view of the coast, looking either to the north or south, is
+extremely interesting. From the top of the lighthouse, which stands at a
+short distance to the north-east of the priory, the Cheviot Hills, on
+the borders of Scotland, can be plainly seen; and, looking southward,
+the view extends across the Durham coast as far as Huntcliffe Fort, in
+Yorkshire; and, in very clear weather, Flamborough Head, which is about
+seventy-two miles distant, may be perceived.
+
+Although the present castle of Tynemouth, the appearance of which has
+been considerably altered within the last thirty years, may not be of
+very great antiquity, yet it is certain that Robert de Mowbray, in
+1095, when he entered into a conspiracy to dethrone William Rufus, had a
+castle at Tynemouth, and that he converted the peninsular area on which
+it was built into a place of great strength. After a siege of two
+months, the castle was taken by the king, and the earl escaped to
+Bamborough. Mowbray, subsequently, being pursued by the king's party,
+when endeavouring to gain admission into the castle of Newcastle, took
+sanctuary in Tynemouth church, from which, however, he was dragged by
+his enemies, and made prisoner.
+
+In 1090, Malcolm III., King of Scotland, and his son Edward, having been
+slain when besieging Alnwick, were interred at Tynemouth. In 1298,
+Edward I. visited Tynemouth, and offered a clasp of gold at the shrine
+of St. Oswald; and, in 1303, his queen resided there while he proceeded
+into Scotland. In 1381, some monks of St. Albans, who had been engaged
+in Wat Tyler's insurrection, fled to Tynemouth for refuge on the death
+of their leader. On the suppression of Tynemouth priory, by Henry VIII.,
+in 1539, the monks were possessed of twenty-seven manors in the county
+of Northumberland, with various advowsons, impropriations, and other
+property, both in that county and in Durham. Their annual revenue was
+valued by Speed at L511 4s. 11/2d.; and by Dugdale at L397 10s. 51/2d.
+
+The church of Tynemouth priory continued to be used for divine service
+till about 1659, when, in consequence of its dilapidated state, the
+foundation of a new church was laid, near to North Shields, on the
+Newcastle-road. In the reign of Charles II., the lead was stripped off
+the roof of the old church, by Colonel Edward Villiers, then governor of
+Tynemouth castle, who also pulled down part of the priory, in order to
+obtain stones for the erection of a lighthouse and other buildings.
+
+By a grant from Charles II., dated 30th June, 1677, Colonel Villiers, in
+consideration of building the lighthouse and providing a light, was
+authorised to demand one shilling from each British, and sixpence from
+each foreign, vessel entering the Tyne. Since the time of Colonel
+Villiers, the lighthouse has undergone considerable alterations, and it
+has also been greatly elevated. Its correct geographical situation
+is--north latitude, 55 deg. 0' 55"; west longitude, 1 deg. 24' 31". The light,
+which is a revolving one, is displayed from sunset to sunrise, and may
+be seen, in clear weather, at the distance of five or six leagues. The
+light appears in its greatest lustre, like a star of the first
+magnitude, once a minute; its brilliancy then begins to decline, and at
+length it becomes totally obscured.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: CULLERCOATS.]
+
+
+
+
+CULLERCOATS.
+
+
+In the Engraving is given a view of Cullercoats, as seen from the
+southward. On the sand, in the foreground, is a coble, a light kind of
+boat, generally employed by the fishermen on the coast of
+Northumberland; near the coble, to the right, is a _dand_ or buoy, used
+by the fishermen to mark the place where they have cast their lines or
+nets. It is formed of an inflated bag of tanned skin, through which a
+light pole passes, and to which pole the ends forming the openings of
+the bag are tightly tied with cord. The lower end of the pole is
+sometimes rendered heavy by lead, so that the _dand_ may float upright,
+and it has also a loop, or a ring, to which the rope connecting it with
+the nets or lines is fastened; and a piece of _bunting_, or coloured
+cloth, is attached, as a small flag, to the upper end, in order that it
+may be more perceptible at a distance.
+
+The village of Cullercoats, which lies about a mile to the northward of
+Tynemouth, is mostly inhabited by fishermen. The duties performed by the
+wives and daughters of the Cullercoats fishermen are very laborious.
+They search for the bait--sometimes digging sand-worms in the muddy sand
+at the mouth of the Coble-dean, at the head of North Shields; gathering
+muscles on the Scalp, near Clifford's Fort; or seeking limpets and
+dog-crabs among the rocks near Tynemouth;--and they also assist in
+baiting the hooks. They carry the fish which are caught in North Shields
+in large wicker baskets, called _creels_, and they also sit in the
+market there to sell them. When fish are scarce, they not unfrequently
+carry a load on their shoulders, weighing between three or four stone,
+to Newcastle, which is about ten miles distant from Cullercoats, in the
+hope of meeting with a better market. The fish principally caught by the
+fishermen of Cullercoats are codlings, cod, ling, (_Gadus molva_),
+halibut, usually called turbot in Northumberland, haddocks, and
+whitings. Herrings are also taken in the season; and the colesay (_Gadus
+carbonarius_), is occasionally caught, but it is a fish which is hardly
+worth the bait, as it is scarcely saleable at any price. The most
+valuable sea-fish caught by the fishermen of Cullercoats, is the _bret_,
+or turbot of the London market. But this fish, when caught by them, is
+mostly sold to the bret smacks, by which it is conveyed to London.
+Gentlemen residing at Cullercoats or Tynemouth during the bathing
+season, may often obtain excellent sport in fishing for whitings, in
+fine weather, off the north-eastern end of the Herd Sand. The best time
+is in the evening, towards high-water; and the best bait is sprats cut
+into small pieces; it is no extraordinary feat for a party of three,
+with half a dozen lines, to take twelve or fifteen dozen of whitings in
+three hours, on a summer's evening.
+
+For the amateur sea-fisher, in the neighbourhood of Tynemouth, there is
+no bait generally so good when fishing within six or eight miles of the
+shore, as the small dog-crab, called in the neighbourhood of Shields a
+_pillan_. It is known from the common dog-crab by the facility with
+which its shell may be stripped off; for instance, in breaking the shell
+round one of its claws, the broken portion may be withdrawn from the
+member as a glove from the hand; and the shell of the back may also be
+stripped off in the same manner. From this facility of _peeling_, it is
+probable that the crab derives its local name of _pillan_. Pillan,
+however, are not plentiful; and when such are not to be got, then
+sand-worms, muscles, and common dog-crabs are the most likely bait.
+Codlings and rock-codlings are plentiful a little to the eastward of
+Tynemouth; but, haddocks and cod, the staple of the Cullercoats
+fishermen, are not often caught in any great quantity within seven miles
+of the shore. The young of the colesay, called a _hallan_, a beautiful
+little fish, is frequently caught with a rod, from the rocks in the
+neighbourhood of Tynemouth. The weaver, (_Trachinus draco_,) or
+stinging-fish as it is called at Shields, is often caught when fishing
+off Tynemouth Bar; and strangers, who are unacquainted with the
+formidable character of this little fish, are sometimes pricked by it
+when taking it off the hook. The men who are employed in the salmon
+fishery, at the end of the Herd Sand, have sometimes their bare feet
+stung by it when hauling their nets. The average length of this fish, as
+caught at the mouth of the Tyne, is about five inches; though some are
+occasionally caught there three or four inches longer. The dangerous
+spines are those of the first dorsal fin; and the best remedy for the
+wound is to rub it well with sweet oil.
+
+Cullercoats is a kind of land-mark for vessels leaving Shields Harbour;
+for as soon as the man at the helm can see the village opening behind
+Tynemouth Cliff, the ship is over the bar.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: DUNSTANBOROUGH CASTLE.
+
+_FROM THE EASTWARD._]
+
+
+
+
+DUNSTANBROUGH CASTLE,
+
+FROM THE EASTWARD.
+
+
+Dunstanbrough Castle, in the county of Northumberland, is situated about
+seven miles north-east of Alnwick, and about two miles north by east of
+Howick, the seat of Earl Grey. Of the keep there are no vestiges
+remaining; and it is even questionable if it was ever completed. Thomas,
+Earl of Lancaster, who is generally considered to have been the founder
+of the present castle, only obtained the king's licence to crenelate, or
+fortify, his house at Dunstanbrough in 1316: and as he was beheaded at
+Pontefract in 1321, and in the intermediate years had been much engaged,
+in the south, in rebellion against Edward II., it is not unlikely that
+the keep might be unfinished at his decease, and never afterwards
+finished. Of Dunstanbrough Castle history records little that is
+interesting. In 1464 it was held, after the battle of Hexham, for Henry
+VI., by Sir Peter de Bressy, and a party of Frenchmen; but was taken,
+after a vigorous defence, by Ralph Lord Ogle, Edmund and Richard de
+Craster, John Manners, and Gilbert de Errington, all Northumbrians, and
+partisans of Edward IV. From this period the castle, which was
+dismantled by the victors, is never mentioned in the history of the
+county as the scene of any memorable event. It was in the possession of
+the crown in the 10th of Elizabeth, but was granted by James I. to Sir
+William Grey, afterwards Lord Grey of Wark. It is now the property of
+the Earl of Tankerville, whose ancestor, Charles Lord Ossulston, became
+possessed of it in 1701, through his marriage with the daughter and
+heiress of Lord Grey, Earl of Tankerville, son of Lord Grey of Wark.
+
+In the present engraving a view is presented of the principal remaining
+tower of Dunstanbrough Castle, as seen from the sea at the distance of
+about a mile; and whoever has seen it at that distance in a blustering
+day, towards the latter end of October, will immediately acknowledge the
+fidelity of the artist's delineation. Though the Abbess of Whitby and
+her nuns, in their fabled voyage to Holy Island, passed the place in
+summer, and in fine weather, yet they seem to have been near enough to
+be sensible of the danger of too close an approach to its "wave-worn
+steep;" for Sir Walter Scott, in _Marmion_, Canto II., relates that,--
+
+          "They crossed themselves, to hear
+    The whitening breakers sound so near,
+    Where, boiling through the rocks, they roar
+    On Dunstanborough's caverned shore."
+
+The contemplation of Dunstanbrough Castle, like that of many similar
+edifices, the ruins of which still frown upon the promontories and
+headlands of our coast, cannot but awaken feelings little favourable to
+what are frequently called the "good old times." If we may compare what
+our ancestors have left with what the present generation is exerting
+itself to accomplish, antiquity has little to boast of. Our forefathers
+crowned the cliffs of the land with strongholds, bristling with lofty
+towers and warlike battlements, nominally for their own defence from the
+incursions of foreign foes, but too often diverted into engines of
+tyranny and oppression to their fellow-citizens. The shipwrecked mariner
+of those days had often more to dread than to hope for in the approach
+to such beacons as Dunstanbrough; and if unhappily thrown upon the mercy
+of its owners, they were only too ready to seize upon what the waves had
+spared, and deem that in permitting him to depart unharmed, they had
+done all that could be expected from them. In our days, we no longer
+erect castles on our coasts; we rather stud them with lighthouses, and
+thus mark out the track of safety, not only for the ships of our own
+nation, but confer equal benefits upon those of every other maritime
+power. We no longer pour down upon the distressed seamen with armed
+bands, whose only aim is plunder; but we rush to the beach, and with
+life-boats constructed in the best manner, and manned by the bravest and
+most skilful of our countrymen, we hasten to succour and to save those
+whom the elements are threatening to destroy. Of a truth, the ruins of
+these fortresses of old might instil a spirit of thankfulness in the
+minds of many of those who profess to admire the days which are gone,
+and render them grateful that their lot has been cast in happier
+times.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: DUNSTANBOROUGH CASTLE.]
+
+
+
+
+DUNSTANBROUGH CASTLE.
+
+MOONLIGHT.
+
+
+In the vignette engraving of Dunstanbrough by moonlight, the incident of
+a wreck coming ashore among the rocks at the foot of the castle is
+introduced with striking effect. The masts of the vessel are seen
+dashing against the rocks. To the left are fishermen assisting such of
+the crew as have escaped to ascend the cliff; while to the right are
+seen people with torches from the adjacent country hastening towards the
+scene of destruction. The moon appears as if "wading"[8] through the
+clouds, and the old tower--itself the wreck of time--appropriately
+occupies the centre of the view.
+
+"On the brink of the cliff, to the sea," says a writer, describing
+Dunstanbrough Castle, "appear the remains of a very strong wall; indeed
+it is probable the whole area was originally so enclosed. The heavy seas
+which break upon the rocks of the north-west point have torn them much,
+and it appears as if the area had been originally of greater extent than
+at present, many separate columns of rock standing near the cliffs,
+which, some ages ago, may have been joined to the mainland....
+Immediately below this tower" [that which is seen in the engraving] "is
+a gully or passage, of perpendicular sides, formed in the rocks, about
+sixty yards in length, and forty feet deep, where the sea makes a
+dreadful inset, breaking into foam with a tremendous noise: the spray
+occasioned thereby is driven within the Castle walls. This place is
+called by the country people the _Rumble Churn_[9]." It is to this chasm
+that Sir Walter Scott alludes when he speaks of "Dunstanbrough's
+caverned shore," in the popular poem of _Marmion_.
+
+In the neighbourhood of Dunstanbrough there is a legendary tale yet
+current, though no longer at its ancient value, of a knight who, many
+centuries ago, discovered a place of enchantment in the vaults of the
+castle, but who, failing to break the spell, through inattention to
+certain mysterious instructions given to him, was doomed to seek for
+ever amid the ruins for the entrance to the enchanted apartment. Mr. G.
+Lewis, in the _Tales of Wonder_, has versified this story under the
+title of "Sir Guy, the Seeker," adding to it certain embellishments of
+his own, and among other matters, introducing a description of the
+Rumble Churn.
+
+The principal parts of Dunstanbrough Castle at present standing are the
+outer walls to the south and west, with the tower overlooking the sea,
+and a gateway towards the south, defended by two circular towers. The
+area inclosed by the walls and the cliff is about nine acres. It is
+under cultivation; and in the additions to _Camden_, it is said to have
+produced in one year two hundred and forty bushels of corn, besides
+several loads of hay.
+
+Howick House, the seat of Earl Grey, is situated in the vicinity of
+Dunstanbrough. It is a noble mansion, built in 1787 from designs by
+Paine; and is surrounded by a beautiful park, watered by two streams
+which unite in the grounds. Near the eastern side of the park are the
+remains of a Roman encampment, where numerous coins and antiquities have
+been found. The family of Grey is ancient in Northumberland; and first
+obtained the peerage in the reign of Edward IV. It is observable that
+the Greys of this district bear the same heraldic distinction as the
+Grey family in Scotland, and are both probably descended from the same
+stock,--one of the martial followers of the Norman conqueror.
+
+Alnwick Castle, about seven miles from Dunstanbrough, is the residence
+of the Duke of Northumberland: it is an immense pile covering nearly
+five acres of ground; and built upon an elevated spot on the southern
+side of the river Aln.
+
+[8] The moon is said to "wade" when she seems as if toilfully making her
+way through a succession of clouds, which flit rapidly past her.
+
+[9] _History of Northumberland_, vol. i. _p._ 594. Edit. 1810.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: BAMBOROUGH.
+
+_FROM THE SOUTH-EAST._]
+
+
+
+
+BAMBROUGH CASTLE.
+
+FROM THE SOUTH-EAST.
+
+
+Sir Walter Scott, in his description of the voyage of the abbess of
+Whitby and her nuns to Holy Island, in the second canto of Marmion, thus
+speaks of them as noticing Bambrough Castle:
+
+    "Thy tower, proud Bambrough, marked they there,
+    King Ida's castle, huge and square,
+    From its tall rock look grimly down,
+    And on the swelling ocean frown."
+
+The view which Balmer, with his usual effect, has given of Bambrough
+Castle from the south-east, is that which the reverend mother and her
+five fair nuns might be supposed to contemplate on entering the channel
+between the Great Farn Island and the mainland, and when about half a
+mile from the shore. The stranded vessel, however, must not be supposed
+to be of the age of Henry VIII., when the abbess made her voyage; for she
+is evidently a light collier of the present day, whose captain,
+probably, in running for Skate Roads in a strong south-east gale, had
+stood too close in shore in passing through the Fareway, and laid her
+snugly up on Bambrough Sands. The Holy Island fishing-boats that are
+seen--for no fishermen dwell at the village of Bambrough--would seem to
+indicate that their owners expect a job in assisting to get her off.
+
+These hardy and industrious men follow an occupation in which the
+hazards and dangers are but poorly recompensed by their gains; and the
+sums they occasionally obtain from the owners of colliers and other
+coasting vessels, form rich prizes in the humble lottery of their life.
+Having in our remarks on "Bambrough, from the north-west," described the
+principal features of this sea-girt fortress, we cannot better employ
+the present page than in a notice of the fishery which is carried on in
+its vicinity. The boats principally used for this purpose are called
+cobles, and their fishing ground is from eight to sixteen miles from the
+shore. In winter, however, they do not venture so far out as in summer,
+but usually shoot their lines between six and ten miles from the shore.
+There are usually three men to a coble. When the wind is not favourable
+and they cannot set their sail, they use their oars; the two men seated
+nearest the head of the boat row each a single large oar, while the man
+on the thwart nearest the stern rows a pair of smaller size. The fish
+are not caught, as on some parts of the south-western coast of England,
+by hand-lines, which are suspended over the side of the boat, and pulled
+up when the fisherman feels that he has a bite. The mode of proceeding
+is to make fast a number of lines together, and shoot them across the
+tide; and after they have lain extended at the bottom of the sea for
+several hours--usually during the time of a tide's ebbing or flowing,
+that is about six hours--they are hauled in. While the lines are shot,
+one man keeps a look-out, and the other two usually wrap themselves in
+the sail, and go to sleep in the bottom of the coble. Each man has three
+lines, and each line is from 200 to 240 fathoms long. The hooks, of
+which there are from 240 to 300 to each line, are tied, or _whipped_, as
+the fishermen term it, to lengths of twisted horse-hair called _snoods_;
+each snood is about two feet and a half long, and they are fastened to
+the line at about five feet apart. Each man's lines, when baited, are
+regularly coiled upon an oval piece of wicker work, something like the
+bottom of a clothes-basket, called by the Yorkshire fishermen a _skep_,
+at Hartlepool, in the county of Durham, the same thing is called a
+_rip_. In this mode of fishing the hooks are all baited, generally by
+the fishermen's wives and children, before the coble proceeds to sea.
+The lines when shot are all fastened together; and when each is 240
+fathoms long, the length of the whole is nearly two miles and a half.
+There is an anchor and a buoy at the first end of the line, and the same
+at the end of each man's set of lines. There are thus four anchors and
+four buoys to each coble's entire line. The buoys at the extremities of
+the line are usually formed of tanned dog-skin, inflated in the manner
+of a bladder, and having a slight pole, like the handle of a mop,
+passing through them, to the top of which a small flag is attached to
+render them more conspicuous. The intermediate buoys are generally made
+of cork. The anchors for sinking and holding the lines are mostly large
+stones; as an iron anchor, with arms like a ship's, is liable to get
+fast among the rocks at the bottom of the sea, and be lost in
+consequence of the buoy rope being too weak to force it loose.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: BAMBOROUGH.
+
+_FROM THE NORTH WEST._]
+
+
+
+
+BAMBROUGH CASTLE.
+
+
+Bambrough, which is now a small village, was a place of considerable
+importance during the Saxon period. King Ida, who ascended the throne of
+Bernicia in 559, first built a castle there, which he is said to have
+named Bebban-burgh in honour of his queen Bebba. It has been conjectured
+by Wallis in his History of Northumberland, that the Keep or great
+tower, is of Roman origin; but Grose, with greater probability,
+considers it to have been built by the Normans. In 1095 Robert Mowbray,
+Earl of Northumberland, having rebelled against William Rufus, retired
+to Bambrough Castle, whither he was followed by Henry, the King's
+brother, and closely besieged. After the siege had continued some time,
+Mowbray left the castle in the charge of his kinsman Morel, who
+continued to defend it with great bravery. The Earl being afterwards
+seized at Tynemouth, where he had taken sanctuary, Henry caused him to
+be brought to Bambrough, and there showing him before the walls of the
+castle, he threatened to put out his eyes if it were not immediately
+delivered up--a proceeding which caused Morel to surrender the place
+forthwith.
+
+From the reign of William Rufus till about the middle of the fifteenth
+century, Bambrough Castle, as if it were a place too important to be in
+the hands of a subject, appears to have continued in the possession of
+the crown, by whom a governor was appointed. In the frequent contests
+between the houses of York and Lancaster, it sustained great damage; and
+as it was not repaired either by Henry VII. or his successor, it ceased
+about the beginning of the sixteenth century to be a fortress of
+importance. In 1575 Sir John Foster, warden of the Middle Marches was
+governor of Bambrough Castle; and one of his descendants received a
+grant of the old building from James I. It continued in the possession
+of this family till the commencement of the reign of George I., when it
+was forfeited through the treason of Thomas Foster, Esq., M.P. for
+Northumberland, better known as General Foster, who in 1715 took up arms
+in favour of the Pretender.
+
+The Manor and Castle of Bambrough were afterwards purchased of the
+crown, by Nathaniel, Lord Crewe, Bishop of Durham, who was married to
+Foster's aunt. Lord Crewe, at his decease in 1720, left the above
+property, with other valuable estates, to trustees to be applied to
+charitable uses. In compliance with the intentions of the testator, a
+noble charity is established at Bambrough for the succour of shipwrecked
+seamen, the education of children, and the relief of indigent persons.
+In 1757 part of the Keep being ready to fall down, the Rev. Thomas
+Sharp, Archdeacon of Northumberland, and one of Lord Crewe's trustees,
+caused it to be repaired, "merely because it had been a sea-mark for
+ages, and as such beneficial to the public." The Rev. Thomas Sharp being
+succeeded in the trusteeship, as well as in the archdeaconry, by his
+son, the Rev. John Sharp, D.D., the latter, who was also perpetual
+curate of Bambrough, continued to make further repairs; and he also
+caused an immense quantity of sand, which he had accumulated in the
+castle-yard, to be cleared away. To this gentleman, who was a brother of
+the amiable Granville Sharp, the present arrangements of the charity are
+chiefly owing. At the castle, blocks and tackles, anchors, cables,
+warps, and other articles are kept for the use of stranded vessels. In
+stormy weather, two men patrol the coast for eight miles, day and night,
+in order to look out for vessels in distress, and during a fog a bell is
+rung at intervals from the castle, and a gun fired every quarter of an
+hour, as a warning to such ships as may be near the coast. Flour and
+groceries are sold to poor families at a reduced rate, and twenty poor
+girls are boarded and educated within the castle.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: HOLY ISLAND CASTLE.
+
+St. Cuthberts.]
+
+
+
+
+CASTLE OF HOLY ISLAND, AND LINDISFARN ABBEY
+
+
+In the present engraving the view is taken from the eastward on entering
+the harbour. To the right is the castle; beyond which, towards the
+centre of the view, are seen the ruins of the abbey. The setting sun
+sheds a warm, yet mellow light, over land and sea; and as evening is
+approaching, and the breeze freshening with the flood tide--for it is
+evident from the inward swell that the tide is flowing--the fishermen
+are seen making for the shore. The boats bound merrily before the wind,
+and
+
+    "----the waves, that murmur in their glee,
+    All hurrying in a joyful band,
+    Come dancing from the sea."
+
+The painter when he made his sketch must have thoroughly felt the beauty
+of the scene, and been touched with the influence of the hour:--
+
+    "O Hesperus, thou bringest all good things!"
+
+and inspirest poets to sing, and artists to paint the charms of eve's
+sweet hour in words and colours that never die--for once felt and
+communicated, they become impressed on the heart and soul of man, and
+live and bloom there for ever.
+
+Holy Island, which is about two miles and a half long, and about two
+miles broad, lies off the Northumberland coast. On the south it is
+separated from the mainland by a deep channel about a mile broad. To the
+north-west it is connected with the mainland by a sand, which is dry at
+low water, and by which carts and passengers can pass to and from the
+island. Speed says that the Britons named it "Inis Medicante, for that,
+in manner of an island, it twice every day suffreth an extraordinarie
+inundation and overflowing of the ocean, which, returning unto her
+watery habitation, twice likewise makes it continent to the land, and
+laies the shoare bare againe, as before." It was called Lindisfarn by
+the Saxons; and in after times, from the celebrity of its monastery, and
+the holy men who had lived there, it acquired the name of Holy Island.
+
+About 635, a church, of wood and thatched with reeds, was first built in
+Lindisfarn, by Aidan, a Scottish monk from the Isle of Iona, who
+exercised the office of bishop in Northumberland. It was afterwards
+built of stone, and gave title to a bishop, until the see was removed to
+Durham in 995. The monastery continued as a cell, dependent on Durham,
+till it was suppressed by Henry VIII. A considerable part of the old
+church, with circular arches in what is termed the Saxon style, is yet
+standing, and forms, with the adjacent ruins, a most picturesque object.
+The village, or as it is usually called "the town," lies at a short
+distance to the northward of the ruins of the monastery, and is chiefly
+inhabited by fishermen, about two-thirds of whom are also licensed by
+the Trinity-house at Newcastle to act as pilots for their own harbour
+and the adjacent coast.
+
+The fishery for cod, ling, and haddock is usually carried on in cobles.
+These boats are very generally employed in the coast fishery from the
+Tweed to the Humber. They are sharp and wedge-shaped at the bow, but
+flat-bottomed towards the stern. They have only one mast, stepped close
+forward, on which a lug sail is set. They are excellent sea boats, and,
+for their size, carry a large sail. The usual length of a Holy Island
+coble is from twenty-five to twenty-seven feet, of which there are about
+sixty belonging to the island. A great quantity of the fish thus caught
+is sent to London in smacks, employed by fishmongers or salesmen there,
+who annually contract with the fishermen to pay them so much per score
+for all the fish sent during the season. From December to April many
+lobsters are caught off Holy Island, nearly the whole of which are sent
+to London.
+
+For the herring-fishery, boats of a larger size are employed. They are
+from thirty to thirty-six feet long, about eleven feet broad, and from
+four and a half to five feet deep. They carry two lug sails, and have no
+deck. The herring-fishery commences off Holy Island about the 20th of
+July, and usually terminates early in September. Many herrings are
+caught in the Fare-way, between the Farn islands and the main-land; but
+the principal fishery for them is generally a little to the southward of
+the Staples, a cluster of small islands which lie from two to three
+miles to the eastward of the Farns. Most of the herrings caught by the
+Holy Island fishermen are taken to Berwick to be cured, and are thence
+chiefly exported to London, Hull, and Newcastle.
+
+On the beach to the westward of the island, the fossils called St.
+Cuthbert's beads--the _entrochi_ of naturalists--are found. They are
+also to be observed in the cliff to the north-east. A rock which lies at
+a short distance from the south-west point of the island is called St.
+Cuthbert's rock, where in former times superstition feigned that the
+saint was wont to sit and
+
+                    "----frame
+    The sea-born beads that bear his name."
+
+This article of popular credulity has, however, been long exploded, and
+the fisherman when he hears the stones rattle on the beach from the
+force of the waves, no longer imagines that the sound proceeds from the
+saint's hammer.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: CASTLE ON HOLY ISLAND.
+
+_FROM THE WEST._]
+
+
+
+
+CASTLE OF HOLY ISLAND.
+
+
+FROM THE WESTWARD.
+
+
+The Castle of Holy Island stands on a steep rock, about half a mile to
+the eastward of the Abbey. It is wholly inaccessible, except by a
+winding pass cut through the rock on the south side. The date of its
+foundation is unknown; but it is supposed to have been first built by
+the monks, as a place of refuge against the piratical attacks of the
+Danes, who frequently annoyed them, and twice burnt their abbey. The
+most memorable event in the meagre history of this castle is its capture
+for the Pretender, by two men, Launcelot Errington, and his nephew Mark,
+in 1715. The garrison at that time consisted of a sergeant, a corporal,
+and ten or twelve men. Errington, who was master of a little vessel then
+lying in the harbour, invited the sergeant, and such of his men as were
+not on duty, to drink with him on board of his ship. The invitation
+being accepted, he plied them so well with brandy as to render them
+incapable of opposition. Framing an excuse for going ashore, he
+proceeded to the castle with his nephew, and succeeded in turning out
+the old gunner, the corporal, and two soldiers, being all that were on
+duty. He then shut the gates, and hoisted the Pretender's colours, but
+being disappointed in the succour which he expected, and a party of the
+king's troops arriving from Berwick, he and his nephew made their escape
+over the castle walls, and endeavoured to conceal themselves among the
+rocks and sea-weed, to the south-eastward of the castle till it was
+dark, when they intended to swim to the mainland. In consequence of the
+rising of the tide, they were obliged to swim while it was yet light,
+and, being perceived by the soldiers, they were taken, and conveyed to
+Berwick gaol, from which, however, they broke out before they were
+brought to trial, and escaped to France. On the suppression of the
+rebellion they took the benefit of the general pardon, and returned to
+England.
+
+Holy Island is of an irregular form. Its greatest length, including a
+low sandy point, which stretches out towards the west-north-west, is
+about two and a half miles. Its mean breadth does not exceed a mile and a
+half.
+
+Holy Island harbour is a small bay or haven on the south side of the
+island, between the castle and the ruins of the monastery. On the bar,
+which is about a mile distant from the town, there is about nine feet at
+low water at spring-tides. The flood then sets with a strong current in
+the channel between the island and the mainland; and at high-water there
+is twenty-four feet on the bar. There is no lighthouse on Holy Island,
+but there is a beacon on the "Heugh"--a hill between the town and the
+harbour--on which, in bad weather, when pilots cannot get off, a flag is
+hoisted during the time of tide that ships may safely enter. In gales of
+wind from the eastward, coasting vessels sometimes seek shelter in Holy
+Island harbour, and find good anchorage before the town in three fathoms
+at low-water.
+
+The Staples and Farn islands, with the rocks and shoals between them and
+Holy Island, render the in-shore navigation of the coast of
+Northumberland, from North Sunderland point to the mouth of the Tweed,
+extremely intricate and hazardous; and the corporation of the Trinity
+House, London, caution all masters of ships, and especially strangers to
+the coast, not to attempt sailing within those islands and shoals; more
+particularly on account of the various settings of the rapid tide which
+runs in the different sounds between the islands.
+
+A visit to the Farn and Staple islands, from Bambrough or Holy Island,
+forms a pleasant excursion in fine weather, more especially when the
+eider ducks are sitting, which is from about the middle of May to the
+latter end of July. These birds, which are seldom seen, and do not breed
+to the southward of the Farn islands, are also known in the
+neighbourhood by the name of St. Cuthbert's ducks. Their eggs, and the
+fine down with which they line their nests, are collected and sold by
+the person who rents the islands, which are also the haunt of several
+other species of water-fowl, such as the sheldrake, the cormorant, and
+the shag, with auks, guillemots, terns, and gulls. Solan geese also
+visit the Farn islands, but do not breed there, commonly making their
+appearance early in spring, and departing before May.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: BERWICK.
+
+_FROM THE SOUTH-EAST_]
+
+
+
+
+BERWICK.
+
+FROM THE SOUTH-EAST.
+
+
+The view of Berwick from the south-east is taken from the Tweedmouth
+shore, at low-water, about a quarter of a mile below the bridge. In the
+foreground is a group of salmon-fishers on the shore examining the
+produce of their last haul, while two others in a coble are shooting the
+net. To the left are seen the chapel and some of the houses of
+Tweedmouth; to the right a few ships are perceived lying on the shore
+near Berwick quay, where the smacks usually take in, and discharge,
+their cargoes. The spire which towers above the houses, like the steeple
+of a church, is that of the town-hall. As Berwick church, which stands
+towards the north side of the town, is without a steeple, it would seem
+that the inhabitants had determined to make amends for the deficiency by
+giving their town-hall a steeple like a church.
+
+The town of Berwick stands on the north side of the Tweed, by which it
+is separated from the county of Northumberland, and about half a mile
+from the mouth of that river. It is 336 miles north by west from London,
+and 54 south by east from Edinburgh. As a great part of the town is
+built on a declivity, which slopes down towards the river, and as most
+of the houses are covered with red tiles, the view that is first
+obtained of it, in approaching from the south, on a clear bright day, is
+very striking, though not very grand. It is almost the only town on the
+Scottish side of the Tweed in which the houses are so covered; in all
+the others the houses being, for the most part, roofed with slate.
+
+Chalmers, in his _Caledonia_, vol. ii, p. 217, speaking of Berwick,
+says, "this place, lying at the mouth of the Tweed, on a dubious
+frontier, has an origin obscure, undignified, and recent." That its
+origin, like the origin of most other towns in Great Britain, is
+obscure, may be admitted; but the term "recent" can scarcely be applied
+with propriety to a town which was of such consequence in the reign of
+David I. as to be appointed one of the "_Four Boroughs_,"[10] which, by
+their Commissioners, met annually at Haddington, where, under the
+presidency of the King's Chamberlain, they formed a Court of Appeal from
+the jurisdiction of other boroughs, and exercised an authority in
+commercial affairs. As nothing is positively known respecting the origin
+of Berwick, it is impossible that an uninspired antiquary should be able
+to decide whether it was "undignified" or not. Its first "kirk and
+mill"--the primary conditions of a town--were more likely to be founded
+by a noble than by a serf.
+
+In 1174, Berwick, with the castles of Jedburgh, Roxburgh, Stirling, and
+Edinburgh, was delivered up to Henry II. as security for payment of the
+ransom of William the Lion, King of Scotland, who had been taken
+prisoner when besieging Alnwick; and it remained in the possession of
+England until 1189, when Richard I. restored it with the other castles
+to William for the sum of 10,000 marks. In 1216, Berwick was plundered
+and burnt by King John, but in a short time was rebuilt by the Scots, in
+whose uninterrupted possession it continued until 1296, when it was
+taken by Edward I. at the commencement of the Scottish war of
+independence, which was first waged by Wallace, and afterwards by Bruce,
+against Edward and his successor; who, laying claim to the sovereignty
+of Scotland, endeavoured to reduce that country to a state of vassalage,
+and to compel her kings to do homage to England for their crown. From
+this war may be dated that jealous and hostile feeling with which the
+two countries continued to regard each other for nearly three centuries
+afterwards, and was only modified in the reign of Elizabeth--when there
+was a prospect of a Scottish king succeeding to the English throne, and
+when open warfare was succeeded by political intrigue--but which was not
+wholly extinct at the Union of the two kingdoms in 1707.
+
+In 1484, it was agreed on, by commissioners appointed by the two
+kingdoms, that the debatable ground in the neighbourhood of Berwick
+should remain without culture, buildings, or inhabitants; and by a
+treaty, concluded at Norham, 10th June, 1551, between Edward VI. and
+Mary Queen of Scots, Berwick was declared to be a free town, independent
+of both kingdoms. Notwithstanding this declaration, Berwick continued
+subject to English authority, and, during the reigns of Mary and
+Elizabeth, was garrisoned with English soldiers. At the Union of the two
+kingdoms in 1707, Berwick, as a salvo to national pride, was considered
+as a separate and independent territory; and it is to this cause that,
+in Public Acts and Forms of Prayer, the "Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed" is
+especially mentioned.
+
+[10] The other three were Roxburgh, Stirling, and Edinburgh.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: LEITH PIER AND HARBOUR.]
+
+
+
+
+LEITH.
+
+
+     This view is taken from the pier, with Edinburgh, the Castle,
+     the Calton-hill, Salisbury-crags, and Arthur's-seat in the
+     background.
+
+Leith, which performs nearly the same important services to the "Modern
+Athens" as the "Piraeus" did to the Ancient, has long served as the port
+and harbour of Edinburgh, to the prosperity of which, as well as to that
+of the whole country, it has greatly contributed. As early as the
+beginning of the fourteenth century the citizens of Edinburgh received
+from King Robert I. a grant of the harbour of Leith; but, owing to the
+resistance of a powerful family, to whose interests it was prejudicial,
+the royal grant was of little or no value to the city. As soon, however,
+as the difference was adjusted, and the corporation of Edinburgh had
+obtained undisturbed possession of the harbour, symptoms of mercantile
+prosperity became visible. But as this prosperity was confined to the
+corporation, the inhabitants of Leith were naturally incensed at the
+monopoly; they felt themselves debarred from the natural advantages,
+profits, and employments of their maritime position, and daily beheld
+the wealth which flowed into their port transferred to the hands of
+those who were neither resident nor proprietors in the place. In 1555 a
+strong effort was made by the inhabitants of Leith to throw off their
+humiliating dependence. With this object in view they petitioned the
+Queen Regent of Scotland, Mary of Lorraine, for the royal sanction and
+assistance; and succeeded as far as to get Leith erected into a burgh of
+barony, a preparatory step to its being raised to the independence of a
+burgh royal. From this epoch, however, having obtained letters patent,
+empowering the inhabitants to elect magistrates, and charters for
+erecting divers of their trades and arts into corporations, Leith
+acquired the name and distinction of a town. By these charters the
+people were divided into four classes, each of which became an
+incorporated body, known as the shipmasters, the traffickers or
+merchants, the maltmen, and the trades' companions; the last of which
+possesses exclusive privileges.
+
+The port and harbour of Leith have always been an object of paramount
+interest to the country at large, and, from time to time, various plans
+for their improvement and extension have been carried into effect. There
+are now two dry-docks for building and repairing vessels--a branch of
+the craft which is here brought into extensive operation--and two
+wet-docks, each three hundred feet wide by upwards of seven hundred feet
+long, and occupying, with their appurtenances, a space of about three
+hundred acres. On these important works upwards of two hundred and fifty
+thousand pounds have been expended. The basins are enclosed by
+well-constructed quays and capacious warehouses for the reception of
+merchandise. The Custom-house, the Exchange, the Trinity-house, the
+Bank, the Court-house, the Baths, the Grammar-school, &c., are all
+elegant buildings, designed with classic taste, and of modern erection.
+
+Leith enjoys an extensive commerce with the Baltic, the northern parts
+of Europe, Holland, France, Spain, Portugal, the Mediterranean, North
+America, and the West Indies; besides a widely ramified coasting-trade,
+and a share in the whale and herring-fisheries. The Leith smacks have
+been famous for their safety and swift-sailing properties; and the
+powerful steam-ships, which now maintain an almost daily intercourse
+with London, are proverbial for their speed and accommodation.
+
+The growing prosperity of Leith is fully evinced by the number of
+trading vessels in its port, the mercantile business carried on in every
+street, the crowded warehouses and ships, its rope-works, canvas
+manufactories, sugar-refining-houses, breweries, distilleries,
+soap-works, iron-foundries, glass-works, and other establishments of
+local industry. But the tide of prosperity, it is said, is prevented
+from reaching its height by the corporation of Edinburgh, who, by
+increasing the rate and number of the port-dues of Leith, have caused
+various branches of commerce to seek encouragement in Kirkcaldy, Dundee,
+Aberdeen, and other places.
+
+The depth of water in the harbour of Leith is stated at only sixteen
+feet at spring-tides, and ten feet at neap-tides; so that very large
+vessels cannot enter the port; but at a mile from the mouth of the
+harbour there is excellent anchorage in what is called Leith Roads. The
+fort, garrisoned by the royal artillery, is a place of great strength.
+
+The municipal government of Leith is vested in a provost, four baillies,
+a treasurer, and ten common-councillors, and, in connexion with
+Portobello and Musselburgh, returns one member to Parliament.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: NEWHAVEN PIER.
+
+(Frith of Forth.)]
+
+
+
+
+NEWHAVEN.
+
+
+Newhaven derives its name and origin from James the Fourth, the most
+accomplished monarch of his day: here he created a yard for
+shipbuilding, a harbour for the reception of vessels, and a chapel
+dedicated to the Virgin Mary and Saint James. The superior advantages
+which the new harbour possessed in depth of water was sufficient to give
+it a decided superiority over Leith, from which it is only a mile
+distant; but, as this result was easily foreseen, measures were promptly
+adopted for its prevention, and the people of Edinburgh--to whom the
+prosperity of Leith was of vital importance--succeeded in purchasing the
+town and harbour, with all rights and privileges thereto belonging. Thus
+the rising importance of Newhaven was completely checked, and its rival
+trade restored to Leith.
+
+The great natural advantages of Newhaven as a harbour, however, were not
+lost sight of; and in recent times the subject was once more revived by
+the city of Edinburgh, and arrangements for its improvement unanimously
+agreed to. A pier and harbour have been erected, beautiful in design and
+substantial in execution, affording abundant accommodation and shelter
+for the large steam-vessels and other craft frequenting this part of the
+coast, and to which the depth of water affords for the most part, an
+easy entrance or exit, at all states of the tide.
+
+To the westward of Newhaven is the elegant chain-pier, erected for the
+special accommodation of steam-vessels; and along the coast, and the
+intervening space between that and the city, numerous villas, cottages,
+and gardens, contribute great beauty and animation to the scenery, which
+is here peculiarly rich and variegated. On the opposite shore of Fife is
+seen the picturesque village of Aberdour, with its feudal keep and
+richly-wooded declivities. Half-way across the frith stands the
+venerable ruins of Inchcomb, the ancient AEmonia, one of the earliest
+monastic establishments in the kingdom, and the subject of many a pious
+and monastic legend. On the south the bulwarks of Edinburgh Castle, the
+blending structures of the "new city and the old," the Calton-hill, with
+its Acropolis-like finish of monumental splendour, Salisbury Crags and
+Arthur's Seat, refresh the eye and fill the mind with such striking
+combinations of nature and art, as are nowhere to be met with but in the
+precincts of the Scottish "Athens."
+
+Although the establishment of a harbour has operated greatly to the
+advantage of Newhaven, by giving additional value to every rood of
+ground in its vicinity, it has not materially interfered with the
+internal economy of the village, which retains most of those ancient
+characteristics which for ages has given its inhabitants an isolated
+position in the community. A stranger cannot enter it without being
+struck by the singularity of everything around him--men, women,
+children, the fish-"creel" and the fishy cabin make their appeal to his
+senses in a manner not to be misunderstood. The remotest village in the
+Alps has not been left by the "march of improvement" more decidedly in
+the back-ground than that of the fish-dealing denizens of Newhaven.
+
+These fish-wives of Newhaven dress themselves in a manner which, however
+coarse or homely in appearance, is not uncostly. They are unable to wear
+any head-dress except a napkin, on account of the necessity of
+supporting their burden by a broad belt which crosses the forehead, and
+must be slipt over the head every time they take off their merchandise.
+They usually wear, however, a voluminous and truly Flemish quantity of
+petticoats, and several fine napkins enclosing the neck and bosom. Their
+numerous petticoats are of different qualities and colours, as in the
+Netherlands; and it is customary, while two or three of these are
+allowed to hang down to the ancles, to have as many more bundled up over
+the haunches, so as to give a singularly bulky and sturdy appearance to
+the wearer. Thirty years ago, the _poissardes_ of Newhaven wore neither
+shoes nor stockings; but in this particular they have at last yielded to
+the force of example, and clothed their nethermost extremities in
+comfortable worsted stockings and neat's-hide. Along with the fishermen
+occupying the village of Fisherrow, those of Newhaven supply the fresh
+fish consumed in Edinburgh and Leith; while their wives, sisters, and
+daughters carry them to market, or hawk them about the streets in
+baskets. They generally ask, like their sisters in the Courgain of
+Calais, three times the value, but their customers, aware of this
+propensity, have little difficulty in reducing the "upset price" to the
+estimate of the buyer.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO THE PORT OF DUNDEE.]
+
+
+
+
+DUNDEE.
+
+ENTRANCE TO THE PORT.
+
+
+    "Here busy commerce spreads her sail;
+      The Tay flows broad and free;
+    And sea and river, hill and dale.
+      Pay tribute to DUNDEE."
+
+Highly favoured by nature in point of situation, Dundee has enjoyed,
+from the remotest period of our national history, many facilities for
+the encouragement of trade. But it is only in more recent times that she
+has risen to that eminence which now places her among the first-rate
+commercial towns of the empire. That laudable spirit of enterprise which
+has encircled the whole island with new or improved ports and harbours,
+has operated most beneficially for those of Dundee; where, within the
+last twenty or thirty years, almost every improvement which either
+science could suggest or wealth accomplish has been carried into effect.
+
+On the return of peace in 1815, the first great impulse was given to the
+manufactures and commerce of Dundee, by the renovation and extension of
+the harbour. Prior to that epoch, the accommodation provided for
+shipping was adapted to the most limited commerce only. One small pier
+and two or three clumsy erections in a state of dilapidation, and which
+it required a boat to reach, constituted the sole protection afforded to
+the shipping, and the only convenience for discharging or loading.
+Although the spirit of enlightened enterprise had been at work for
+several years, it was only at this late period that application was made
+to Parliament, and a bill obtained for separating the harbour from the
+other branches of the common good, and for investing the management of
+it for a term of years in district commissioners, who were selected
+partly from the magistrates, and partly from the public bodies of the
+town. Great pains were taken to procure the best plans; and after all
+preliminaries had been settled, the work was begun and carried on with
+such extraordinary activity, that, although everything was finished in
+the most substantial manner, all was accomplished within the time
+specified. The plan comprised the new harbour, consisting of a wet-dock
+of about six acres; a tide-harbour of much greater extent; a
+graving-dock, capable of containing three of the largest
+merchant-vessels frequenting the Tay; extensive carpenters' and other
+yards for ship-building; wide and capacious quays, affording berthage
+for about thirty vessels to load or discharge at the same time. From the
+first moment that measures were taken to ensure this superior
+accommodation, the number and tonnage of the ships were increased by
+their owners, and the trade and commerce of the port most materially
+improved. The expenditure incurred by these great public works, though
+amounting, from 1815 to 1833, to L242,000, or upwards, was judiciously
+(says our Statistical authority) applied, and with great advantage both
+to the private trust and to the public at large.
+
+When the plan for the new harbour was adopted in 1815, it was considered
+to be so extensive, especially when compared with what preceded it, that
+it was generally believed that the accommodation it promised would
+exceed the necessities of the trade of Dundee for many years; but this
+was so far from the fact, that some years ago the want of sufficient
+berthage became so much a subject of complaint, that measures were taken
+as soon as possible to remedy the evil. A new harbour-bill was applied
+for, and obtained, vesting the shore-dues permanently in a board of
+trustees. A plan was adopted for extending the tide-harbour, and for
+converting the greater part of it into a wet-dock, and for other
+improvements, rendered necessary by the rapidly increasing trade and
+commerce of the town, all of which have been completed.
+
+In population, trade, and manufactures, as above stated, Dundee has
+advanced faster perhaps than any town so situated in the United Kingdom.
+There are men now living who remember when its population was less than
+one-fifth of what it now is; and when its harbour was a crooked wall,
+affording shelter to only a few fishing or smuggling-craft; when its
+spinning-mills were things unknown and unthought of; and when its trade
+was hardly deserving of the name.[11]
+
+[11] For many of the preceding facts we are indebted to the New
+Statistics of the Town and Port of Dundee, a work indispensable to all
+who desire correct information on the subject.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: DUNDEE, FROM THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE TAY.]
+
+
+
+
+DUNDEE.
+
+FROM THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE TAY.
+
+
+Our present engraving depicts a scene of great natural beauty, and a
+faithful picture of one of the most thriving of the Scottish seaports.
+Few towns in the United Kingdom have advanced so rapidly in commercial
+importance. The manufactures of Dundee have become of great interest not
+only to the town, but to the nation at large. The proportion which they
+bear to the general produce of the industry of the state is very high;
+and their rapid and continued progress holds out the most encouraging
+prospect of still greater accessions in every department of trade. Of
+these manufactures, the linen trade holds the first place; it employs
+the greatest number of hands and the greatest capital, and gives a
+stimulus to all other branches of trade and commerce. The materials for
+this branch of manufacture are imported from Russia, Prussia, Holland,
+and Brabant, and thus employ a great number of ships and seamen. Up to
+the beginning of the present century, all the linen yarns manufactured
+here were hand-spun; and in 1811 there were only four spinning-mills
+driven by steam: at the present time there are upwards of 100 flax
+spinning-mills, employing more than 8,000 hands, of whom nearly one half
+are females. The following figures exhibit the progressive increase of
+this trade:--The importation of flax in 1790 was 2,700 tons; in 1850,
+55,000 tons. The export of linen in 1790 was 8 millions of yards; in
+1850, 85 millions of yards. The yarns thus manufactured are generally
+sent from the mills direct to the bleach-fields, or to the wash-mill,
+where they are scoured or whitened, and prepared for the loom. In
+weaving sail-cloth, and other heavy goods, men only are employed; but,
+in the lighter fabrics, women perform the work as well as the men.
+Formerly, the women were employed in spinning only; but here, as
+everywhere else, where steam is employed, the introduction of machinery
+has wholly superseded the use of the domestic wheel and distaff, and
+compelled the females to earn a scanty subsistence in a much less
+appropriate labour.
+
+Within the last thirty years the population of Dundee has been more than
+doubled; its charitable contributions have risen from under L2,000 to
+nearly L12,000 per annum; its shipping has increased fourfold; while its
+linen trade has been called almost entirely into existence. But the
+reverse of the picture must not be concealed--the assessment of the
+poor has advanced tenfold; in 1791, it was L400, it is now upwards of
+L10,000. This is an evil, it has been said, inseparable from prosperous
+communities, for the poor generally flock to, or are increased in them;
+and where multitudes are gathered together at various employments,
+example does not always favour economy, industry, and virtue. Nor is it
+easy, amidst the spirit of enterprise which is now abroad, to suggest
+any improvement for the town which the resident authorities have not
+already in contemplation.
+
+Full tide in the estuary of the Tay is generally said to occur, on the
+days of the new and full moon, at a quarter past two o'clock, but in the
+harbour of Dundee it flows till about half-past two. The average height
+of the spring-tides, as measured by an index at the entrance to King
+William's Dock, is about seventeen feet, while that of the neap-tides is
+about eleven feet. The water opposite the town, though saline, is not
+wholly marine, but considerably diluted by the fresh water flowing down
+the river; and this is the reason, probably, why sea-water insects never
+attack the piles, buoys, or beacons about the harbour. Opposite the
+town, the river Tay is very nearly two miles broad. The channel across
+is much interrupted by a sand-bank, which, though formed within the last
+forty years, has now at full spring-tides only about ten feet water over
+its surface, and at neap-tides scarcely more than four. Its position is
+not far from midway across; its form is spindle-shaped; its length, as
+seen at low water, upwards of a mile; and its course parallel with that
+of the river. At present, its lower or eastern extremity is stretching
+down in the form of a curve, concave towards the harbour of Dundee; but
+it is so constantly altering its features, that no further remark need
+be made upon it than this, that it is always accumulating, and slowly
+moving down the river. This sand-bank, in reference to the navigation of
+the Tay, is naturally an object of no small interest and solicitude.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: ABBEY OF ARBROATH.]
+
+
+
+
+THE ABBEY OF ARBROATH.
+
+
+The Harbour, which was originally at the end of the East Causeway, was
+formed about the remote period of 1194; but being ill-constructed for
+the craft and increasing traffic of more modern times, a brief or bill
+was obtained for building a new pier in 1725, and which is situated a
+little to the westward of the old one. It is strongly built of stone,
+and, though not capacious, is sufficiently commodious to admit of
+vessels lying close to any part of it, either to receive or discharge
+their cargoes. During spring-tides there is a depth of from fifteen to
+sixteen feet of water at the entrance, and at neap-tides of from nine to
+ten feet; but it is dry at low water. Here, as in most of the other
+ports of this coast, there is a considerable foreign trade carried on
+with Russia, Norway, and Sweden, as well as a home-trade in lime, coals,
+and agricultural produce. The trade at this port is now so rapidly
+increasing, that great improvements in the harbour are contemplated. It
+counts seventy-seven vessels of its own, registering 6700 tons.
+
+Near the south side of the harbour of Arbroath is a handsome
+signal-tower fifty feet high, which is used for communicating with the
+keepers of the Bell Rock Lighthouse. On a clear day this gigantic column
+may be seen rising from the sea at the distance of about twelve miles.
+The Bell Rock, so long known and celebrated in history, tradition, and
+poetry as the "Inchcape," is thus described by an ancient chronicler:
+"By east the Castle of May twelve miles from all land, in the German
+Sea, lies a great hidden rock called Inchcape, very dangerous for
+navigators, because it is overflowed every tide. It is reported that in
+old times, upon the said rock, there was a bell fixed upon a tree or
+timber, which rang continually, being moved by the sea, and thus gave
+notice to sailors of their danger. This bell, or _cloche_, was put thus,
+and maintained by the pious Abbot of Arbroath, and being taken down by a
+sea-pirate a year thereafter, he perished upon the same rock, with ship
+and cargo, in the righteous judgment of God."[12]
+
+But the glory of Arbroath, as every reader knows, is its ABBEY, which,
+as seen in the accompanying view, presents one of the most imposing
+monastic ruins in existence. It was founded in 1178, by King William
+the Lion, who was buried here, and dedicated to St. Thomas a Becket, of
+Canterbury. The monks, to whose ministry this sumptuous temple was
+consigned, were of the Benedictine or Tyronensian order, and brought
+from the Abbey of Kelso, the abbot of which declared them, on their
+first instalment, free from his jurisdiction. The monastery, thus
+tenanted, soon obtained those great and peculiar privileges which it
+long continued to enjoy. Its abbots were frequently the first churchmen
+of the kingdom; and a charter from King John of England, under the great
+seal, is still extant, by which the monastery and the citizens of
+Aberbrothock are exempted _a teloniis et consuetudine_, in every part of
+England, except London and Oxford.
+
+It was inferior, perhaps, in architectural elegance to Melrose, Elgin,
+and some others; but, with the exception of Holyrood, it was probably
+the most wealthy monastic establishment in Scotland. The monks did not
+exceed twenty-five in number; and some idea may be formed of the abbot's
+charity and hospitality from this fact, that one of the orders issued
+for the yearly provision of the abbey is thus particularized:--eight
+hundred wedder sheep, one hundred and eighty oxen, eleven barrels of
+salmon, twelve hundred and five dried cod-fish, eighty-two chalders of
+malt, thirty chalders of wheat, and forty chalders of meal; these
+supplies, it is to be observed, were in addition to the rents paid in
+kind by the abbot's tenants.
+
+The Abbey of Arbroath appears to have been demolished some time
+previously to the general destruction of the religious houses at the
+Reformation. Tradition ascribes its early fate to a quarrel between the
+monks and Ochterlony, Laird of Kelly, at whose instigation a lawless mob
+attacked and set fire to the abbey, till the neighbouring streets, it is
+said, "were deluged with the melted lead that streamed from its roof."
+
+After the destruction and spoliation of the abbey, Arbroath lost all its
+importance as a royal burgh, and continued in a very depressed state
+till the building of the new pier, when commerce began to repair the
+loss and recover some portion of its ancient prosperity. The population
+is about 7000, or upwards.
+
+[12] Monipennie's _Scots Chronicles_. London, 1612.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: MONTROSE.]
+
+
+
+
+MONTROSE.
+
+
+    "Mare ditat: Rosa decorat."
+
+     "Montrose--a beauty that lies concealed, as it were, in the
+     bosom of Scotland; most delicately dressed up, and adorned with
+     excellent buildings, whose foundations are laid with polished
+     stone, and her ports all washed with silver streams that
+     trickle down from the famous Ask."--RICHARD FRANK, A.D. 1658.
+
+Montrose, a royal burgh and sea-port town of Forfarshire, is agreeably
+situated on a level plain, or peninsula, bounded on the north-east by
+the German Ocean, on the south by the river South Esk, and on the west
+by a large expanse of this river, called the Basin of Montrose. The
+erection of this town into a royal burgh has generally been referred to
+the year 1352, being the twenty-third of the reign of David II.; but it
+appears to have been a place of some note long before it acquired this
+dignity, and is connected with many important events in the history of
+Scotland. It is mentioned by Froissart, as the port from which the
+gallant Sir James Douglas embarked in 1330, for the Holy Land, attended
+by a numerous and splendid retinue, and carrying with him the heart of
+King Robert Bruce. This, as the reader knows, was in execution of the
+last charge committed to him by his royal master, namely, to carry the
+heart of the deceased monarch to Jerusalem, and there deposit it in the
+holy sepulchre. The disastrous failure of this pious enterprise is too
+well known to require further notice in this place.
+
+The principal manufactures carried on in Montrose are the spinning and
+weaving of flax. For this purpose there are several steam-mills for
+spinning, and one on the North Esk driven by water. These steam-mills
+produce annually upwards of 800,000 spindles. There are also in the town
+soap, starch, rope, and sail manufactories; and others for making
+steam-machinery. Ship-building is carried on to a considerable extent,
+and there is a patent slip, introduced for repairing ships. There are
+also in addition various breweries, tan-works, candle-works, a foundry,
+and a steam-mill for grinding meal and flour.
+
+Montrose is the port of the Custom-house, and, as such, comprehends
+within its bounds all that district between the lights of Tay on the
+south, and the Todhead on the north, thereby including Arbroath, and
+other places of less importance.
+
+The principal foreign imports into Montrose consist of flax, hemp,
+tallow, whale-fins and oil, fir-timber, oak and oak-planks, deal and
+deal-ends. But as the goods manufactured here are sent coastwise to
+London, Glasgow, Dundee, and other towns, there are few or no _exports_
+to foreign places from Montrose. Owing, however, to the bonded system
+having been extended to this port, nearly all the foreign wines and
+spirits consumed in the district, are brought coastwise to the bonded
+warehouses, and pay duty at the Custom-house when taken out for
+consumption.
+
+The _exports_ from this district by the coasting-trade consist of wheat,
+oats, barley, rye, peas, beans, and potatoes; salmon, codfish, and pork,
+the latter chiefly for the London market: great coal, culm, parret,
+lime, blue slate, iron, tallow, rosin, barilla, kelp, salt, and herrings
+from the Moray Frith, chiefly smoked and sent to the Hull and London
+markets. The principal import from the English coast is coal; but
+various other articles are imported and exported by regular traders to
+London, Glasgow, and Leith.
+
+Montrose contains several public edifices, all designed with
+considerable taste and substantially executed. Among these are the
+church, with a fine gothic tower, St. John's church, St. Peter's
+episcopal chapel, the Town-hall, the Academy, the Lunatic Asylum, and
+the Jail. The finest object, however, and which combines ornament with
+utility, is the new Chain-bridge, erected, like many others in the
+United Kingdom, after a plan by Captain James Brown, of the Royal Navy.
+The foundation-stone of this admirable structure was laid on the 18th of
+September, 1828, and the whole was completed before the close of the
+following year. The distance between the towers at the two extremities
+of the bridge, measured from the centre, is four hundred and thirty-two
+feet. The height of each tower is seventy-one feet, namely, twenty-three
+and a half from the foundation to the roadway; forty-four from the
+roadway to the top of the cornice; and three feet and a half forming the
+cornice. It spans the river, South Esk, and is justly considered the
+finest specimen of the kind in Scotland. The whole cost is stated at
+twenty thousand pounds.
+
+The population of Montrose continues rapidly to increase. The society is
+very superior to that of most country towns, and includes amongst its
+members men who have distinguished themselves in every department of the
+state. It was formerly represented in Parliament by Joseph Hume, Esq., a
+native of the place, and so well known as a leading member in the House
+of Commons.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: DUNOTTAR CASTLE, NEAR STONEHAVEN.]
+
+
+
+
+DUNNOTTAR CASTLE.
+
+
+    "High on a rock, half sea-girt, half on land,
+    The castle stood, and still its ruins stand.
+    Wide o'er the German main the prospect bent,
+    Steep is the path and rugged the ascent:
+    There hung the huge portcullis--there the bar
+    Drawn on the iron gate defied the war."
+
+_"Dunnottar Castle," by Mrs. Carnegie, 1796._
+
+The view of Dunnottar Castle, which so happily illustrates this portion
+of the work, represents one of the most remarkable features that are
+anywhere to be met with on the coasts of the British empire. The drawing
+was taken on the spot, and shows with admirable effect and precision
+those striking combinations of nature and art which, during a long
+series of ages, rendered the fortress of Dunnottar impregnable. But
+those rocky foundations from which it once rose in all the strength and
+grandeur of feudal architecture are fast yielding to the encroachments
+of the sea; its crested summits, once brilliant with arms and bristling
+with cannon, seem ready to drop from their precipice. Unroofed,
+unlatticed, untenanted, with not an ember left on its once capacious
+hearth, desolation and ruin are vividly pictured in its dreary solitude.
+The floors are covered with crumbling fragments of varied and costly
+decorations in sculpture, painting, and fretwork. Once a
+palace--commanding all that could minister to the security and luxury of
+its almost royal possessors, its battlements gay with standards, crowded
+with retainers, mailed guests in the hall, and minstrels in the
+court--it is now dark as a sepulchre;--banners, retainers, guests,
+minstrels, and the master of the feast himself--all are gone! The hoarse
+dash of the waves, the shrill scream of the stormy petrel, the crash of
+some disjointed and falling rock, or the whistling of the coming
+tempest, are almost the only sounds that now alternate among these
+embattled heights, where the curious stranger retraces with melancholy
+interest the days and deeds of antiquity. To him who is familiar with
+its history, Dunnottar speaks with an audible voice; every cave has a
+record--every turret a tongue; his ear is struck with "wandering
+voices," and words that never die seem at every step to arrest his
+attention.
+
+The Castle of Dunnottar--now the stately and magnificent ruin thus
+feebly sketched--stands on an isolated rock two hundred feet
+perpendicular, washed on three sides by the sea, and on the other
+separated from the adjacent land by a wide and deep chasm, from which by
+a gate in the wall, nearly forty feet high, there is an entrance to the
+fortress. Leading upwards from this gate there is a long steep passage,
+partly arched over, and formerly secured by two drawbridges, the grooves
+for which are still visible. At the inner end of this passage is another
+gate, opening into the castle area, which is enclosed by a wall, and
+occupied by buildings of various epochs. But of all the buildings on
+this rock the chapel is the most ancient, and there is reason to believe
+that it originally served as the parish church of Dunnottar. The Castle,
+or the peninsular rock on which it stands, makes its first appearance in
+Scottish history during the wars of Bruce and Baliol, when, it is
+alleged by some modern authorities, the castle was erected by Sir
+William Keith as a place of safety for himself and friends. According to
+Blind Harry and Hector Boece, Dunnottar was surprised and taken by Sir
+William Wallace in 1297, and the Blind Historian relates that Dunnottar
+was occupied by four thousand English troops, who had fled before the
+victorious arms of the Liberator; and that when Wallace made the
+onslaught, as many of them as the church would contain took shelter
+there, in the hope that consecrated ground would not be violated by
+their slaughter; but, says the bard,--
+
+    "Wallace on fyre gart set all haistely,
+    Brynt up the kyrk and all that was thairin."
+
+In the year 1336 Dunnottar was fortified and garrisoned by Edward III.;
+but immediately after his departure for England it was attacked and
+carried by the gallant Sir Andrew Moray, who destroyed the
+fortifications of the Castle, so that it might not again afford ready
+protection to an enemy.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: STONEHAVEN.]
+
+
+
+
+STONEHAVEN.
+
+
+    "The flocks are white upon the moor,
+      The forest's filled with deer;
+    There's industry at every door,
+      And shipping at the pier."
+
+Stonehaven, like Aberdeen, has its old town and its new; but "with this
+distinction, that of the latter, the new town is the older of the two."
+The old town of Stonehaven, or Steenhive as it was formerly written, was
+built on _feus_ granted by the "Earls Marischal," by one of whom it was
+erected into a burg of barony. The new town, or "Links of Arduthie," is
+separated from the old town by a brook, called the water of Carron, and
+is built upon the estate of the patriotic Mr. Barclay Allardyce, of Ury.
+It is the county-town; and hither, in 1660, the sheriff-court was
+removed from Kincardine by Act of Parliament.
+
+On the south-west of a bare rocky promontory, called Garron-point, at
+the entrance of Stonehaven Bay, are seen the ruins of Cowie Chapel,
+which is said to have been dedicated to the Blessed Virgin. From this
+point on the north, called Garron, to that of Downie on the south, is
+what is termed the Bay of Stonehaven. The town stretches from the bridge
+over the Cowie river, on the north, to the above-mentioned headland,
+Downie Point, on the south; but it is divided, as already stated, into
+two parts by the "Carron;" the north part being the new, and the south
+the _old_, or sea-town; close to which last, and to Downie Point, which
+is a protection to it from south-east gales, stands the Harbour,
+erected, like most others on the east coast, _sea_-ward. It is a
+capacious basin, and would contain a great number of vessels, but until
+lately, when two cross-jetties were built, it was very insecure, or
+afforded little protection to vessels during north-east and east gales,
+to which it is much exposed, the entrance being to the east. It is now,
+however, comparatively secure; and gas-lights being erected, the one
+bearing on the other, vessels bound southward in winter find it a very
+agreeable retreat, and about thirty so situated have been seen in it at
+one time.
+
+The exports consist of grain, timber, herrings, and other fish; the
+imports are principally coals and lime, of which a great quantity is
+required for agricultural purposes.
+
+The Harbour, in spring-tides, will admit vessels drawing fourteen feet
+water, sometimes upwards; but in ordinary tides the depth can hardly be
+reckoned at more than from ten to eleven feet.
+
+The trade of curing fish by smoke-drying, in imitation of the _Finnan
+haddies_, is carried on with much spirit: several large houses have been
+fitted up for this purpose and for red-herrings; and a stranger would
+scarcely believe the extent done in this business, the haddocks thus
+cured being sent to London, Edinburgh, and other markets in the south,
+by all conveyances.
+
+The other trade of the place is principally in manufacturing woollen,
+linen, and cotton cloths, a branch of native industry in which great
+numbers of people are employed. The Glenury distillery is a large
+concern, and close to the town, from which a great quantity of whiskey
+is constantly shipped off.
+
+Among the disasters which, in its day, Stonehaven has had to deplore, we
+may cite the following, as characteristic of those unhappy times when
+the country was torn by the violence of faction, and fire and sword laid
+waste this ill-fated district. On the 20th of March, 1645, the Marquis
+of Montrose, then quartered at Stonehaven, addressed a letter to Earl
+Marischal, at his castle of Dunnottar, about two miles from this,
+exhorting him to espouse the royal cause; but receiving no answer, he
+proceeded to wreak his vengeance on the earl's lands and dependants.
+"Thereafter," says the historian Spalding, "he fires the Tolbooth, a
+prison of Stonehaven, wherein there was store of grain, and the whole
+town, with all the barnyards, houses, and other buildings, except those
+of James Clark, wherein Montrose himself was quartered. They plundered a
+ship lying in the harbour, then set fire to her, as well as to all the
+fishing-boats then in the harbour. They burnt up the whole town of
+Cowie, houses, buildings, corn, and corn-yards; and in like manner
+plundered the whole goods, gear, horses, oxen, sheep, which they could
+get; plundered the parson of Dunnottar's house and set it on fire. The
+people of Stonehaven and Cowie, it is said, came out, men, women, and
+children at their feet and children in their arms, crying, howling, and
+weeping, praying the earl, for God's sake, to save them from this fire
+as soon as it was kindled; but these poor people got no answer, nor knew
+they where to go with their children. How lamentable to behold!"
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: ABERDEEN.]
+
+
+
+
+ABERDEEN.
+
+GENERAL VIEW.
+
+
+The city of Aberdeen, the seat of two celebrated universities, is
+divided into the old and the new towns, at an interval of about a mile.
+Of these, the former--now reduced almost to a village--appears to have
+been a town of some note as early as the ninth century, but gradually
+fell into decay after the great epoch of the Reformation. The Cathedral
+of St. Machar was founded at the remote era of 1164, and repaired in the
+beginning of the fourteenth century. But a new building of more elegant
+design was founded by Bishop Kinnimond, the second prelate of that
+family, and finished by Bishop Leighton. The Reformation, however,
+suspended all further operations, and left the pile a monument of
+premature decay. Of King's College, founded at the close of the
+fifteenth century, the learned Hector Boethius was the first principal.
+
+New Aberdeen, though irregularly built, is a handsome city, and
+beautifully situated on three gentle eminences at the mouth of the Dee.
+The streets are spacious, and many of the public buildings of elegant
+design. In ancient times, several religious establishments flourished
+here, belonging to the different orders of Dominicans, Carmelites, and
+Grey Friars, with an hospital, or _maison-Dieu_. Marischal College, so
+named from its liberal founder, George, Earl Marischal of Scotland, has,
+like its predecessor, been long celebrated as a seat of the muses. Its
+professors and lecturers--twenty-seven in number--have shone conspicuous
+in every department of human learning, and are continually sending forth
+in their pupils the living proofs of that zeal and assiduity with which
+their important functions are discharged. With the fame of this
+university, the names of Campbell and Beattie are more especially
+associated, as the champions of religion and the ornaments of our native
+literature.
+
+The environs of this ancient city exhibit many pleasing indications of
+commercial improvements, which are daily acquiring fresh impulse, adding
+new embellishments to the landscape, and evincing an increase of comfort
+and independence among the inhabitants, who amount to about fifty
+thousand.
+
+There are few springs of any consequence in Aberdeen or the
+neighbourhood, and although a supply of water can be had in most places,
+by digging to a depth of from ten to thirty feet, it is generally so
+hard as to be of comparatively little value. Close by the boundary of
+the parish, on the west side, are two springs, quite contiguous, which
+have been long known as the "Well of Spa." Both these springs, but
+especially the least copious one, are impregnated with carbonate of
+iron, and on that account have been long noticed as medicinal. Early in
+the seventeenth century an account of the properties and powers of these
+springs was published by Dr. Barclay, under the title of _Callirhoee,
+commonly called the Well of Spa, or the Nymph of Aberdene_. A building,
+which at that time protected the spring, having fallen into decay, was
+repaired by the celebrated painter George Jamieson, but was not long
+afterwards demolished by a flood of the Den-burn, which runs close
+beside it. In 1670, another building was erected over the spring, which
+still remains, consisting of a stone enclosure, with steps or benches,
+and an entablature bearing these inscriptions:--
+
+    "As Heaven gives me,
+    So give I thee."
+
+    "Hoc fonte derivata salus in Patriam populumque fluat,
+    Spada Rediviva 1670."
+
+Within the last two centuries both these springs have repeatedly
+disappeared and been recovered, and always retaining their chalybeate
+qualities till of late. Within the last few years, however, while
+digging upon the adjacent eminence for the foundations of the west wing
+of the new infirmary, it would seem as if the course of the water had
+been disturbed, or some other change produced, the consequence of which
+is, that now the larger spring appears to possess hardly any chalybeate
+impregnation, whilst the smaller one is much weaker than formerly.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: ABERDEEN, FROM ABOVE THE CHAIN BRIDGE.]
+
+
+
+
+ABERDEEN,
+
+FROM ABOVE THE CHAIN BRIDGE.
+
+
+    "Blyth Aberdein! thou beriall of all tounis,
+      The lamp of bewtie, bountie, and blythnes;
+    Unto the heaven ascendit thy renown is
+      Off vertew, wisdom, and of worthines;
+    Benottit is thy name of nobilnes;--
+      Be blyth and blissful, burgh of Aberdein!"--DUNBAR.
+
+The Port of Aberdeen is now universally known among seafaring men as one
+of the safest and most commodious in Scotland. The skill and practical
+efforts of both Smeaton and Telford were successively employed upon it;
+and after an arduous and extensive enterprise, the grand object has been
+fully obtained. To those who are only acquainted with the harbour under
+its present aspect it will be difficult to convey a correct notion of
+its appearance in ancient times. There is reason to suppose that at a
+period beyond the reach of history, the river Dee must have discharged
+its waters into the sea at the Craiglug--where the Chain Bridge is seen
+in the engraving--and that by their alluvial deposits, and the effects
+of the north-east winds, in accumulating the sands in the neighbourhood,
+the ground now occupied by the village of Footdee, the shorelands and
+Sandilands, the Links and the islands in the estuary were gradually
+raised above the level of the sea. At a less remote period it is
+believed that the river Don poured its floods into the frith of the Dee:
+and the conjecture derives strength from the notices of Roman
+geographers. The occurrence of great changes is attested by various
+remains which have been disinterred at different periods. Thirteen feet
+under low-water mark in spring-tides, and twenty-eight feet below the
+general surface of the Inches, were discovered two human skulls, a large
+piece of flint, and great quantities of shells and other marine
+deposits; and in excavating the canal, at a considerable distance from
+the shore, anchors and other articles of shipwreck were found deeply
+imbedded in the earth.
+
+The entrance to the harbour of Aberdeen is naturally bad, owing to a bar
+at the mouth of the river, where, at ebb-tide, the depth of water was
+often not more than two feet. To remedy this evil was, from a very early
+period, the ardent desire of the citizens, and to some of their first
+efforts in this direction we have alluded in our notice of Aberdeen
+Light-house. But it is since the commencement of the seventeenth century
+that the most effective improvements have been made, amongst which we
+may name the erection of a bulwark on the south side of the entrance,
+and the removal of a great stone, called "Knock-Maitland," which lay
+nearly in the middle of the river, both of which were accomplished in
+succession; the first in 1608, and the latter in 1618. Between 1623 and
+1658, the quay was extended eastward, towards Futtie; by which means a
+considerable portion of ground was redeemed below the Castle-hill, and
+is now covered with buildings. In 1755 an additional quay was built a
+good way further down, opposite the village of Torrie. In 1770, further
+improvements were projected; and, on a report from Mr. Smeaton,
+recommending the erection of a pier on the north side of the entrance,
+so that the influx of sand from the north might be prevented, and the
+removal of the _bar_ effected, by confining the waters of the river Dee
+within narrower bounds, the work was commenced in 1775, and finished in
+less than six years. The length of this pier was twelve hundred feet,
+and it terminated in a round head of sixty feet in diameter. Owing,
+however, to a departure from Mr. Smeaton's plan, by which the pier was
+founded too far to the north, it was found that a heavy swell entered
+the harbour; and to obviate this formidable inconvenience, a bulwark was
+projected from the pier, to about one-third across the channel.
+
+By these means considerable improvements were effected; but as the trade
+of the city increased, inconvenience was still felt from a deficiency of
+water on the bar; and Mr. Telford, having been consulted in 1810, on the
+means of remedying this evil, recommended that the pier should be
+extended, and that wet-docks should be formed in the harbour. These
+works were commenced forthwith, and the pier, carried on to the extent
+of nine hundred feet beyond the head of Smeaton's pier, and again
+finished with a round head, was completed in 1816. In the course of the
+following winter, however, this head was destroyed by the storms; but
+being rebuilt with a slope towards the sea, it has since stood without
+very material damage. A breakwater, extending to the length of eight
+hundred feet, was also built on the south side, by which the mouth of
+the channel was narrowed, and the entrance protected from the storms of
+the south-east. Wharfs were built along the south-west side of Futtie;
+the pier opposite Torrie was enlarged; and, latterly, the quay has been
+extended westward from the old quay-head; and by raising embankments on
+the Inches, a considerable range of quay-room has been gained there,
+which is connected with the town by a swivel-bridge, opposite
+Marischal-street. By all these combined measures, quay-room has been
+provided to the extent of about four thousand feet; a tide-harbour has
+been formed, in which, at spring-tides, the depth of water is about
+_eleven feet_ at the west-end, gradually increasing to _fifteen feet_,
+where it joins the course of the river; while the depth of the water on
+the bar has been increased to about nineteen feet.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: THE LIGHT HOUSE, ABERDEEN.]
+
+
+
+
+ABERDEEN LIGHTHOUSE.
+
+
+Immediately to the south of the small bay of Greyhope stands the
+Girdleness Lighthouse; an erection by which the trade of Aberdeen has
+been greatly benefitted. The Girdleness, from which it takes its name,
+is a conspicuous promontory of which the Commissioners of the Northern
+Lights took advantage to erect this monitory beacon: it was lighted up
+for the first time on the night of the 15th of October, 1833, and is a
+lofty, circular tower, built of granite, and crowned with two copper
+domes, one within the other, in order to prevent the effects which would
+follow from the condensation of vapour from the heated air of the lamps.
+The dwelling-houses of the keepers are at the bottom of the tower; and a
+field of considerable extent has been walled in and cultivated for their
+accommodation. It is on the larboard, or left-hand side, as we enter the
+port, and is known to mariners as a _double-light_, a distinction
+produced by placing two lights in the same tower, the one above the
+other. Of these, the lower light is visible in clear weather at the
+distance of thirteen, and the higher at that of sixteen miles. They are
+under the charge of two keepers, one of whom mounts guard at sunset, and
+in case of emergency can summon assistance by means of an alarm-bell,
+placed in the sleeping apartments, which may be rung from the
+light-room, by means of an air-blast, through tubes laid for that
+purpose. This edifice, of incalculable benefit to the cause of humanity,
+was erected after the design of Robert Stevenson, Esq., and does great
+honour to his talents. The bay of Greyhope, above-named, is memorable as
+the scene of many a disastrous shipwreck, particularly that of the
+Oscar, in which, out of a crew of forty men, only two were saved. This
+occurred on the 1st of April 1813.
+
+For many centuries after the foundation of Aberdeen, the harbour was
+nothing more than an open expanse of water, washing the base of the
+Castle-hill on the north, the rising grounds of Torrie on the south, and
+communicating with the sea by the narrow and shallow mouth of the river.
+Of this basin the greater part was left dry at ebb of tide; while
+several large, but low islands, were never wholly overflowed. The most
+ancient, and during many years the only erection within the port, was a
+bulwark extending from the Ship-row southwards, and now known as the
+Shore-area. Its extremity was called the Quay-head, a name afterwards
+applied to the wharfs extending from the vicinity of the Trinity Kirk
+eastward, beyond the present weigh-house. At what time it was built is
+altogether unknown; but it was in existence in the fourteenth century,
+and was probably constructed in the preceding age. In 1484, having
+become ruinous, it was either repaired or rebuilt; and about the same
+time, beacons for the guidance of ships were erected, and the wreck of a
+Spanish galley on the southern shore, which had long obstructed the
+channel, was removed. In 1512, the quay was again repaired; and in 1526,
+still further operations became necessary, and a great portion of the
+wharfs was reconstructed. In 1549, repairs being once more required, a
+stair was added; and in 1582 a crane was erected. In 1621, two
+corn-mills were built within flood-mark; and about thirteen years later,
+a weigh-house, which served also for a custom-house, was erected. In the
+course of the same century, various other additions were made to the
+wharf, and several municipal statutes introduced for the better
+regulation of the port. In 1566, a lighthouse, containing "three great
+flaming lights, to burn from daylight to daylight, between the first day
+of September and the last day of March," was erected on St Ninian's
+Chapel, on the Castle-hill.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: SLAINES CASTLE,--NEAR PETERHEAD.]
+
+
+
+
+SLAINES CASTLE.
+
+
+Slaines Castle, the feudal residence of the Hays of Erroll, covers a
+peninsular rock, boldly projecting into the German Ocean and forming an
+abrupt and imposing landmark on this iron-bound coast. Its position is
+remarkable: the huge precipice over which it projects on one side, and
+of which it seems an integral part, descends perpendicularly to the sea,
+where the water is so deep that vessels of large burden may float within
+a yard of the rock. It is said, indeed, that a tankard of wine may be
+lowered down from the Castle window to the yard-arm of a man-of-war
+under sail. Whether this experiment has been tried we know not; but this
+we can readily admit, that much good wine has taken the opposite
+direction.
+
+The situation of this family fortress is rather bleak and cheerless,
+presenting no leafy bowers, no clumps of trees, few masses of verdure or
+vegetation, to refresh the eye or flatter the imagination.
+
+    "La nature maratre, en cet affreux climat,
+    Ne produit, au lieu d'or, que du fer des soldats."
+
+The prospect, however, which is bounded only by the horizon seaward, is
+grand and imposing, and fills the mind with corresponding ideas. For a
+Trappist convent, with Baron Geramb at its head, nothing finer could be
+imagined; for their nearest neighbour in one direction is the "King of
+the Norse;" and the hills, on the other hand, are wild and solitary
+enough to shut out the world and its vanities.
+
+The following is the traditional origin of the Hays of Erroll:--In the
+year 980, and reign of Kenneth III., the Danes having invaded the
+country, gave battle to the Scots at Loncarty, near Perth. The latter,
+being worsted in the fight, gave way; but, while passing a defile in
+their flight, were stopped by a countryman and his two sons, who
+encouraged the fugitives to rally and renew the struggle. The example,
+resistance, and reproaches of these three brave men, armed only with the
+implements snatched hastily from their ploughs, inspired the routed
+Scots with new life. They rushed back upon their pursuers, encountered
+the Danes afresh, defeated them at every point, and delivered their
+country from servitude. The victory being complete, the father,
+afterwards known by the name of Hay, was ennobled by the king, and
+rewarded with the best part of the enemy's baggage, and a grant of land
+in the rich Carse of Gowry, containing as much as "a falcon flew over
+without alighting." The march stones, being about seven miles apart, are
+to this day called the "Falcon Stones."
+
+The first of this ancient family who did honour to the Scottish peerage
+was created Earl of Erroll by James II., in 1452, in recompense of his
+faithful services, and died at this castle in 1470.
+
+The baronial fortress of Slaines was afterwards demolished by order of
+James VI., on the rebellion of the Earl of Huntly, and long continued in
+ruins.
+
+Dr. Johnson thus records his visit and reception within these
+walls:--"We came in the afternoon to Slaines Castle, built upon the
+margin of the sea, so that the walls of one of the towers seem only a
+continuation of a perpendicular rock, the foot of which is beaten by the
+waves. To walk round the house seemed impracticable; from the windows,
+the eye wanders over the sea that separates Scotland from Norway, and
+when the winds beat with violence, it must enjoy all the terrific
+grandeur of the tempestuous ocean. I would not for my amusement wish for
+a storm, but as storms, whether wished for or not, will sometimes
+happen, I may say, without violation of humanity, that I should
+willingly look out upon them from Slaines Castle."
+
+The caves and grottoes along this coast are numerous and interesting.
+The Dropping, or White Cave of Slaines, extends about 200 feet
+underground; and through a natural vault the water oozes forth, and
+forms fantastic pyramids of incrustations or stalactites. The cave, by
+this natural process, would soon be filled up, were not the petrified
+substance frequently cut away and burnt for lime. In this, as in many
+other caves along the shore, the ancient inhabitants of the district are
+supposed to have taken refuge when repeatedly harassed by the sudden
+descent of Danish marauders; and in later times it may have often served
+as a secure retreat for smugglers, who formerly abounded in this
+neighbourhood, and carried on their illegal traffic in comparative
+safety.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: THE BULLER OF BUCHAN.
+
+(near Peterhead)]
+
+
+
+
+THE BULLER OF BUCHAN.
+
+
+     "If I had any malice against a walking spirit, instead of
+     laying him in the Red Sea, I would condemn him to reside in the
+     _Buller of Buchan_."--SAMUEL JOHNSON.
+
+The Buller of Buchan, one of the most remarkable natural curiosities in
+Scotland, is about six miles south from Peterhead. It is a vast hollow
+in a rock projecting into the sea, open at the top, and communicating
+with the water by means of a natural arched passage, about fifty yards
+high. The basin within is nearly circular, about thirty yards in
+diameter; and around the extreme edge of the chasm is a narrow footpath,
+from which to the water in the abyss below, measures about thirty
+fathoms,[13] more or less, according to the state of the tide. It is a
+scene upon which all travellers dwell with feelings of mixed awe and
+admiration. Even Dr. Johnson, the learned philologist from whom we take
+our motto, visited and retired from the spot with amazement. "We soon
+turned our eyes," he observes, "to the Buller, or _Bouilloir_, of
+Buchan, which no man can see with indifference, who has either sense of
+danger or delight in rarity. It is a rock perpendicularly tubulated,
+united on one side with a high shore, and on the other rising steep to a
+great height above the main sea. The top is open, from which may be seen
+a dark gulf of water, which flows into the cavity through a breach made
+in the lower part of the enclosing rock. It has the appearance of a vast
+well, bordered with a wall. The edge of the Buller is not wide, and to
+those who walk round appears very narrow. He that ventures to look
+downward sees that, if his foot should slip, he must fall from his
+dreadful elevation upon stones on one side, or into water on the other.
+We, however, went round, and were glad when the circuit was completed.
+When we came down to the sea, we saw some boats and rowers, and resolved
+to explore the Buller at the bottom. We entered the arch which the water
+had made, and found ourselves in a place which, although we could not
+think ourselves in danger, we could scarcely survey without some recoil
+of the mind. The basin in which we floated was nearly circular, perhaps
+thirty yards in diameter. We were enclosed by a natural wall, rising
+steep on every side, to a height which produced the idea of
+insurmountable confinement. The interception of all lateral light
+caused a dismal gloom. Round us was a perpendicular rock; above us, the
+distant sky, and below, an unknown profundity of water."[14]
+
+To the above description, written in the autumn of 1773, little needs to
+be added: the wild features of the scene, and the effect produced upon
+the minds of travellers, continue to present nearly the same aspect and
+to awaken the same impressions as in the days of the great
+lexicographer. The scene of horror, however, is often enlivened by
+pic-nic parties from Peterhead, during the fine season, and is
+deservedly considered as one of the great "lions" on this coast, a title
+to which its continual "roar" gives it a more especial title.
+
+The geological features of this locality are very interesting. The rocks
+are of primitive granite, and appear to have been upheaved to the
+surface by some internal expansive force, and have an inclination from
+east to west of 25 degrees. Reposing upon the granite, is a bed of
+diluvial clay, of from ten to fifteen feet deep, containing numerous
+small water-worn stones, of different species of the secondary
+formation; besides large quantities of flint, originally imbedded in
+limestone, which must have been rolled from a great distance, as there
+are no beds of limestone on this coast, or in any of the neighbouring
+districts. From atmospheric action and other causes the rocks are
+rapidly disintegrating; and great quantities of _debris_ are annually
+accumulating at the bottom of the precipices, where wild grasses and
+lichens springing up produce, by their decomposition, a vegetable mould
+which is gradually increasing.
+
+[13] Two hundred and fifty feet, according to more recent admeasurement.
+
+[14] The accompanying view has been justly pronounced as by far the best
+that has ever appeared of this remarkable scene, and is taken at the
+same point from which it was contemplated by Dr. Johnson, after his walk
+from Slaines Castle, about two miles distant. Sir Walter Scott, when on
+his excursion to the Shetland Isles, and while becalmed off this coast,
+paid a visit to the Buller; and we are of opinion (says Mr. Mackie),
+that in his description of the Cavern of Staffa, we can discover some of
+the general features of the scene described, shadowed forth in the _Lord
+of the Isles_. It is proper to mention, that although now generally
+written Buller, it is uniformly known in the district as the
+_Bullers_--_Les Bouilloirs_, or boiling caldrons.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: PETERHEAD.]
+
+
+
+
+PETERHEAD.
+
+
+    "No scene for me like the bounding sea;
+      No couch like my cabin pillow!
+    No fair domain like yon ocean's plain--
+      And my coursers, the breeze and billow!"
+
+        _The Heliotrope._
+
+Peterhead, like the neighbouring ports already noticed, has rapidly
+increased, within the last twenty years, in all those means which
+facilitate and secure the advantages of trade and commerce. Though long
+and deservedly resorted to as a delightful watering-place, remarkable
+for the salubrity of its air, and the beauty of its situation, the
+activity of trade was still unknown to its inhabitants. Its only
+harbour, a small basin dug out of the rock, was rarely enlivened by
+anything that could aspire to the title of shipping; for in Cromwell's
+time, about twenty tons of boat-freight was all that its diminutive port
+could lay claim to. The spirit of its inhabitants, however, with an
+accurate perception of the natural advantages of the Port, and aided by
+government in the preparation for a new era in commercial enterprise,
+has achieved wonders. An air of prosperity animates the whole town: the
+harbour is filled with goodly traders; imports and exports cover the
+quays: industry has received a stimulus which communicates its happy
+influence to everything around; and Peterhead now holds an enviable
+station among the Ports and Harbours of Great Britain.
+
+The point of land on which the town is built, is the most easterly of
+the mainland of Scotland. It forms the north-east side of a bay, and is
+connected with the country, on the north-west, by an isthmus eight
+hundred yards in breadth. On Keith-Inch, so called from the Earl
+Marischal, are many elegant and substantially-built houses; and on its
+south-side is an old Castle, erected in the sixteenth century, by
+George, Earl Marischal, after the model of one which he had seen in
+Denmark. Down to the close of the sixteenth century, Peterhead was only
+a small fishing-village, and the stranger who now passes through its
+populous streets, and busy harbours, will readily perceive how much has
+been accomplished in the interval.
+
+The Harbours are both handsome and commodious; and, having two entrances
+from the south and north, and being equidistant from the Forth and
+Moray Friths, are much resorted to by vessels frequenting the east coast
+of Scotland. The annual revenue is under the management of commissioners
+incorporated by Act of Parliament. The South Harbour has a depth of
+between twelve and fourteen feet water at medium springs, and from eight
+to ten at neap-tides; but the North Harbour, during spring-tides, has
+full eighteen feet water, and at no tide less than fourteen. The Quay
+extends to 3350 feet in length; and connected with the harbour is an
+excellent graving dock. The shipping belonging to the port amounts to
+about 12,000 tons; and the number of vessels that annually take shelter
+in these harbours, may be estimated at two hundred and forty. The
+leading articles of export are grain, meal, eggs, butter, cattle, fish,
+and the produce of the fisheries: the imports are groceries, clothing,
+flour, salt, iron, timber, coal, lime, and bone-manure. Shipbuilding has
+long been carried on to a considerable extent; and in the present day no
+port of the kingdom sends out vessels more remarkable for fine
+proportion and elegant combination of strength and beauty. During the
+last half century, Peterhead has carried on an extensive trade with
+Greenland, and Davis' Straits; and takes rank next to Hull in the whale
+fishery.
+
+The lighthouse, which stands on the Buchan Ness, at the extremity of the
+south bay, is of the utmost importance, both as regards the interest of
+the general trade of the port, and the prosecution of the herring
+fishery, which is carried on with great success.
+
+The neighbourhood of Peterhead is renowned for its granite, which is of
+a reddish colour and closely resembles that on the west bank of the Lago
+Maggiore in Italy. The beautiful pillars in the British Museum, and the
+Duke of York's column in Waterloo-Place, are specimens of it; and
+materials for many of our public buildings, such as the docks at
+Sheerness, have also been furnished from the quarries of Peterhead.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: MACDUFF, NEAR BANFF.]
+
+
+
+
+MACDUFF.
+
+
+    "... A place, where industry and health
+    Their sure abode have found;
+    Where want has ripened into wealth,
+    And gladdened all around.
+    How sweet on that romantic bay
+    To spend the live-long summer-day!"
+
+Macduff, which in the course of a century has emerged from its humble
+origin of a few fishermen's huts into a town and harbour of no little
+importance on this coast, is now an object of increasing interest to all
+who delight in tracing the gradual rise and progress of national
+prosperity, in the ramifications of our trade and commerce. The town is
+situated about a mile and a half to the east of Banff; and in the
+grouping of its buildings presents an aspect sufficiently romantic to
+arrest the attention of every stranger who has a taste for the
+picturesque. The Earl of Fife, on whose property it is built, has
+greatly contributed to its advancement in all that regards the comfort
+of the inhabitants, and the improvement of its harbour, which is now
+considered one of the best in the Moray Frith. At the instance of this
+patriotic nobleman, Macduff was created a burgh of barony by his Majesty
+George III.; and from that time large sums of money have been annually
+expended in improving the town, encouraging industry, and extending the
+harbour. The import and export traffic of this port continues on the
+increase, and employs numerous vessels that carry on a regular trade
+with London and the ports of the Baltic. The exports consist chiefly of
+corn, salmon, cod-fish, and granite, for which the quarries of this
+coast have been so long known and appreciated. It is also a favourite
+fishing-station, and possesses a numerous fleet of boats engaged in the
+herring-fishery, which is here prosecuted during the season with great
+activity and success; an occupation that has been the means of training
+up a larger number of hardy seamen, and thus contributing to the naval
+supremacy of our country in a greater degree than any other branch of
+the coasting-trade. It has at the same time been instrumental in
+providing an important portion of the subsistence of the peasantry in
+the district, as well as furnishing a supply for transmission to the
+metropolis and the southern part of the Kingdom, and successfully vieing
+with the far-famed staple of Yarmouth. The herring-fishery on the coast
+of Scotland was long confined, almost exclusively, to the coasts of
+Caithness and Sutherland; but owing to the encouragement afforded by
+government at the termination of the war, the fishing of herrings was
+commenced on the Aberdeen, Banff, Moray, and Rossshire coasts; and it
+was soon discovered that the herrings were both as good in quality and
+as abundant on the south side of the Moray Frith as on the north. This
+trade, from a small beginning, has now become flourishing and extensive;
+and although the government bounties have been withdrawn, it is still
+carried on with great spirit and activity. The quantity cured within the
+district amounts in favourable years to about thirty thousand barrels.
+
+The town contains a thriving and industrious population of nearly two
+thousand: it has a grammar-school, a town-hall, and a jail. The church,
+which forms so prominent a feature in the picture, occupies a
+conspicuous situation on the eminence, and owes much to the taste and
+munificence of Lord Fife, who has erected a fine massy cross in its
+immediate precincts, and thereby contributed an ornament which, by its
+peculiar elevation, gives additional interest and effect to the whole
+scene.
+
+The bridge across the Devon, by which Macduff communicates with Banff
+and the surrounding scenery, is described in our notice of the latter
+town and harbour. Owing to the acknowledged excellence of its
+accommodation for shipping, Macduff is gradually acquiring fresh
+testimony in its favour as a seaport, and promises to insure to its
+inhabitants, at no remote period, their full proportion of maritime
+prosperity. So be it; and in this wish and prospect every one, who is
+acquainted with the place or the people, will cordially sympathize; and
+from their known energy and perseverance, there is no reason to doubt of
+their securing that commercial success which they labour so strenuously
+to obtain, and to which their natural position so much entitles them.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: BANFF.]
+
+
+
+
+BANFF.
+
+
+The ancient town of Banff consists of two distinct parts, the first of
+which, called the body of the town, lies partly on the lower extremity
+of the plain, skirting the river, and partly on the declivity. The
+second portion, called the sea-town, stands on an elevated level which
+terminates abruptly within a short distance of the sea, by which it is
+bounded. When viewed from the low ground beyond the river, the sea-town
+appears to stand on a long elevated ridge, as seen in the engraving, and
+having the battery on its northern extremity. On a piece of table-land,
+projecting midway between the town proper, and sea-town, and nearly
+opposite the mouth of the river, stands the Castle, a plain, modern
+edifice, but commanding an extensive and varied prospect of the sea, the
+town, the hill of Macduff, the sweep of the river, and the beautiful
+slope opposite, surmounted by the woods of Mount Coffer.
+
+The streets of Banff, though composed of houses varying much in size,
+are generally straight and of a convenient width. The High-street,
+Castle-road, and a street in the sea-town, terminating in the battery,
+form a continuous line from south to north, of about half a mile in
+length. In the progress of recent improvements, many of the old houses
+have been pulled down and replaced by others, so that now scarcely a
+feature of primitive architecture is left to remind the spectator of the
+olden time--the characteristic dwellings of our forefathers--
+
+    "When walls of oak and hearts of steel
+    Stood surety for the public weal."
+
+About twenty years ago the comfort and convenience of the inhabitants
+were greatly promoted by the addition of an excellent market-place, laid
+out in a central part of the town and furnished with every necessary
+accommodation. Public baths have also been erected by a joint-stock
+company, and the town is lighted with gas.
+
+In the southern approach to Banff, the road is carried over the Doveran
+by means of an elegant and substantial stone bridge, consisting of seven
+semicircular arches, with a clear water-way of one hundred and forty-two
+yards. This handsome structure was finished at the expense of government
+in 1779, and is highly ornamental to the town and neighbourhood. From
+this point the view of Duff House, in the centre of a beautiful park, is
+seen to great advantage. In proof of this, the reader has only to cast
+his eye over the engraving, which, to those who have not seen the
+original, conveys a faithful and striking resemblance to Banff and its
+vicinity. Seen so near as to render its elaborately carved ornaments
+visible, the appearance of Duff House is particularly rich, graceful,
+and majestic. It contains a fine gallery of paintings, many of them by
+the first masters of the art. This baronial mansion, was built nearly a
+century ago, after a design by Adams, in the Roman style, but has never
+been finished in its original detail. The body of the house is an
+oblong, consisting of four lofty stories; the first of which is a rustic
+basement, over which rise two stories, adorned with fluted pilasters,
+and an entablature in imitation of that on the temple of Jupiter Stator,
+in the Campo Vaccino at Rome. Over this entablature, which surrounds the
+whole structure, is an attic story, surmounted by a balustrade. The four
+corners of the building have projections resembling towers, which break
+and vary the outline, overtop the attic story, and are adorned at the
+angles by an upper range of pilasters with an entablature of the
+Composite order, and crowned by dome-like roofs, on which are placed
+octagonal pedestal-chimneys.
+
+The town of Banff has much to recommend it as a residence. It possesses
+both coast and inland scenery of a superior description, and is
+particularly healthy. It has excellent schools, classical and
+commercial; various places of public worship, as observed by the
+established Presbyterian, the Episcopalian, the Seceder, and others. It
+has abundant markets, frequent and regular mails, public baths,
+literary, scientific, and benevolent institutions; boarding-schools, and
+society equal at least to what is generally met with in a remote
+provincial town.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: PORT GLASGOW.]
+
+
+
+
+PORT GLASGOW.
+
+
+    Here, safely moored, our vessels ride,
+      Here plies the busy oar;
+    And every ship that stems the tide
+      Brings treasures to our shore:
+    Here trade and industry command
+    The trusty heart and steady hand.
+
+The ground on which this town has been erected belonged originally to
+the estate of Newark, and was purchased by the magistrates of Glasgow,
+in 1668, in order to provide a convenient harbour for the
+merchant-vessels belonging to that city--hence the name of Port Glasgow.
+In 1775, a charter was obtained from parliament, conferring on the town
+the privilege of a burgh of barony, and granting a constitution, which
+vested the management of its municipal affairs in a council of thirteen,
+including two baillies. By the Burgh-Reform Act, the number was reduced
+to nine, consisting of a provost, two baillies, and six councillors. The
+Reform Bill elevated it to the rank of a parliamentary burgh; and, in
+connexion with Kilmarnock, Rutherglen, Dumbarton, and Renfrew, it sends
+one member to parliament.
+
+In its general appearance, Port Glasgow presents an air of much neatness
+and regularity. The streets are straight, and for the most part cross
+each other at right angles; while the houses, nearly uniform in size,
+and generally whitewashed, give to the whole a light and regular
+appearance. Among the modern buildings the town-house, and parish-church
+are chiefly deserving of notice. The town-hall, of plain but substantial
+workmanship, is ornamented in front with a portico, resting on four
+massy fluted pillars, and surmounted with a handsome spire, which rises
+from the centre. Of this edifice, the ground-floor has been laid out
+chiefly in shops; but the upper story, in addition to the chambers of
+the council and town-clerk, contains a large and commodious
+reading-room, with several apartments occupied as mercantile
+counting-rooms. The church was finished seventeen years ago, and affords
+accommodation for about twelve hundred persons. It is square in form,
+and plain in its exterior; but is much and deservedly admired for the
+simplicity and elegance of its internal arrangement. The wealthy
+inhabitants of the place did themselves great honor, and at the same
+time set a valuable example to others, by gratuitously contributing a
+sum of fifteen hundred pounds to assist in the expenses of its
+erection.
+
+Attached to this Port are two capacious harbours, substantially built,
+and so completely sheltered from storms, that the vessels moored within
+them have rarely been found to suffer injury even in the severest
+weather. These harbours are furnished with ample quay and shed-room, and
+also with a commodious graving-dock--the oldest in Scotland. The largest
+vessels that trade to the Clyde are found at this port; such is the
+facility of access to this harbour, that vessels which draw twenty-one
+feet of water are towed up and down the channel with the greatest ease
+and safety.
+
+A very important addition to the harbour accommodations of Port Glasgow
+was obtained a few years back in the erection of wet-docks. The then
+existing harbours having been found much too small for the increasing
+number of ships belonging to the port, the inhabitants of the town
+resolved to avail themselves of their local advantages, by converting
+the Bay of Newark, naturally adapted to the purpose, into a spacious
+dock, where vessels of the largest class might lie securely afloat in
+every state of the tide. The trustees of the harbours obtained an act of
+parliament, investing them with the necessary powers for carrying this
+desirable object into effect; and funds having been secured, they were
+enabled to commence the work, which was soon in rapid progress, and
+completed about twelve years ago. This dock, having spacious quays, with
+a twenty-five feet depth of water alongside, holds out special
+advantages to the trade, both in point of safety and convenience.
+
+The charges levied at this port are on the most moderate scale, and
+considerably below the rates imposed at the neighbouring ports. To
+merchants engaged in trade with the Clyde, Port Glasgow thus presents
+the double advantage of low charges and very superior accommodation;
+while, at the same time, the privileges of the warehousing system are on
+a footing equal to those of any other port in the kingdom.
+Warehouse-room is provided on a very extensive scale, and is open for
+the general accommodation of the trade, on very moderate terms. In
+addition to the regular bonded warehouses, there is a large area for
+receiving wood into bond, and an excellent warehouse for crushing
+refined sugars, in which large quantities of that article are prepared
+for exportation to the Mediterranean markets.
+
+Shipbuilding is also carried on at this port to a considerable extent:
+of late years the builders have been chiefly employed in the
+construction of steamboats, of which they have produced a great number,
+some of them of the largest class, and all of very superior workmanship.
+From the nature of the trade, the rope-work and canvas factory are here
+in a state of constant activity, and give employment to a great number
+of hands. The vast improvements effected within the last few years, by
+deepening the river, and extending the harbours and docks as already
+mentioned, give Port Glasgow just cause to anticipate all the advantages
+arising from a prosperous and extending commerce.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: GREENOCK.]
+
+
+
+
+GREENOCK.
+
+
+     "The Clyde, always spacious, and always covered with its
+     shipping, offers a scene of life and brilliancy unparalleled on
+     any of our sea-shores; and enhanced by a majestic screen of
+     mountains to the north, for ever varying under the change of a
+     restless atmosphere, but under all these changes, for ever
+     magnificent!"
+
+Among the principal sea-ports of the United Empire, Greenock is justly
+entitled to a distinguished place. Although of comparatively modern
+date, it has left many of its ancient predecessors and modern rivals in
+the background, and at this moment continues to advance rapidly in
+commercial enterprise and prosperity.
+
+The recent formation of quays and docks of corresponding dimensions,
+affords to this harbour every facility for vessels of heavy burthen. The
+town possesses several handsome buildings, the principal of which are
+the church, the Tontine, or great hotel, and the CUSTOM-HOUSE. Of the
+latter, with the immediate scene of commercial activity and forest of
+masts by which it is surrounded, the engraving opposite presents a vivid
+and faithful representation. It is a structure of great elegance, and,
+as an illustration of the chastest style of Grecian architecture, it
+would be difficult to point out a finer specimen either at home or
+abroad. The quality of the materials too is every way worthy of so fine
+a monument of national prosperity; and a fair estimate may be formed of
+the superiority of the workmanship, when we state that a sum of not less
+than twenty thousand pounds was expended in its erection; a fact which
+evinces at the same time the high importance attached to Greenock as a
+depot of the national revenue. The river Clyde is here about three miles
+broad; but, as also at Port-Glasgow, the navigable channel is little
+more than three hundred yards across. The bay is formed by an expansion
+of the Clyde, into which several bold points of land project from the
+northern bank, over which the mountains of Argyll, gradually receding
+till their summits are lost in the sky, present a landscape of almost
+Alpine beauty and magnificence.
+
+In conjunction with the native grandeur of the scenery, the spirit of
+commercial enterprise, which is everywhere visible on the banks, as well
+as on the bosom of the water--transforming the one into a garden, and
+the other into a "high road" to prosperity,--impresses every spectator
+with the strongest evidence of its magical influence. Industry and
+activity pervade and animate everything around, and extend their
+influence into the remotest parts of the country. For several years
+past, Greenock has been the principal port in immediate connexion with
+America, to which the annual tide of emigration from the Highlands still
+flows, though with abated force, and a divided stream, since the golden
+hills of Australia have offered to thousands the vision of wealth to be
+acquired in a few months, and an independence to be realized in a single
+year. Here, grouped on the quay, sauntering along the streets, or
+viewing the distant mountains to which they are soon to bid adieu, the
+voice and features of the Gael awaken a lively interest and attention on
+the part of every stranger. They have left their humble dwellings in
+those mountains, which still look invitingly in the distance, and which
+through innumerable generations had afforded shelter and sustenance to
+their ancestors, but whence they are driven at last, not by choice, but
+imperious necessity.
+
+When tired or satisfied with the tumultuous scene on the quays, the
+traveller may ascend in half an hour the heights above the port, and
+there behold one of the finest views in Scotland. The gigantic screen of
+Argyllshire mountains, rising peak over peak till they vanish in the
+sky, forms a magnificent distance to the picture; while the middle
+ground is occupied by the broad expanse of the Clyde, gay and studded
+with shipping in every direction. Still nearer, the port of Greenock
+itself, crowded with masts and sails, and steam chimneys and buildings,
+forms an appropriate foreground to a panorama as variegated as it is
+picturesque.
+
+That generous spirit of enterprise which characterises the merchants of
+Greenock has given birth to one of the most remarkable efforts of
+science and art which have been accomplished in modern times. This is
+the admiration of every stranger, and well known to the public under the
+name of Shaw's Water-works. By a singular combination of ingenuity and
+skill, a small stream of water is made to travel along the faces of
+mountains, and across ravines, for the space of six miles and a half,
+till it reaches the brow of a hill about a mile above Greenock, at an
+elevation of more than five hundred feet above the level of the sea.
+Here it is received into a small reservoir, and managed in such a manner
+as to produce, by this stupendous fall, a two-thousand-horse power,
+greater, says Mr. Brown, than that produced by all the united
+steam-engines in Glasgow. This splendid scheme was designed and
+completed under the personal superintendence of Mr. Thom, of Rothesay,
+to whose scientific and inventive genius it is a noble and lasting
+monument. The immense power thus provided is rendered more secure and
+certain than that of steam, because there exists no doubt whatever that
+a full supply of water commensurate with the power, can be had at all
+times and seasons.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: NEW BRIDGE AND BROOMIELAW GLASGOW.]
+
+
+
+
+THE BROOMIELAW, GLASGOW.
+
+
+The river Clyde, in a commercial point of view, is of the greatest
+importance, not only to the city of Glasgow, but to the whole western
+district of Scotland. Till the beginning of the sixteenth century,
+however, the channel of this noble river was so incommoded by fords and
+shoals, as to be hardly navigable even for the small craft of that day.
+Sensible of this great evil, and aware that it admitted of a remedy, the
+inhabitants of Glasgow, Renfrew, and Dumbarton entered into an agreement
+to excavate the channel of the river, and, by working six weeks
+alternately, succeeded in their enterprise. The principal ford and
+several others of less importance were removed, so that by the middle of
+the sixteenth century, flat-bottomed lighters could be floated with ease
+and safety to the landing-shore at the Broomielaw, which, in the process
+of time and events, has become the great commercial port of Glasgow.
+
+A few years ago, the harbour of Broomielaw was only seven hundred and
+thirty feet long on one side; it is now 3340 feet long on the north side
+of the river, and 1260 on the south. Till of late years there were only
+a few _punts_ and ploughs for dredging the river; there are now four
+dredging-machines, with powerful steam-apparatus and two diving-bells.
+The shed accommodation on both sides of the river is most ample; and one
+of the cranes made by Messrs. Claud, Girdwood, and Co., for shipping
+steam-boat boilers, is capable of sustaining a weight of _thirty tons_,
+and may, for the union of power with elegance of construction, challenge
+all the ports in the kingdom. For the space of seven miles below the
+city the river is confined within narrow bounds, and the sloping banks,
+formed of whinstone, in imitation of ashlar, are unequalled as a work of
+beauty and utility.
+
+From the Broomielaw, till it begins to expand into an estuary, the Clyde
+is everywhere overlooked, at short intervals, by the rising hulls and
+finished decks of steam-boats and other craft preparing for the launch.
+Compared with the bulk of its waters, and the breadth of its stream,
+this river is unequalled for the amount and stir of its navigation. Here
+it is seen bearing along ships of heavy burden and deep draught of
+water; there plentifully dotted with yawls and wherries, and kept in a
+constant state of foaming agitation by large steam-ships, freighted with
+heavy cargoes from the shores of England and Ireland--by numerous
+coasting steam-vessels, careering over its surface with thousands of
+human beings, and by steam tug-boats, dragging behind them trains of
+sailing craft, too unwieldy to pilot their own way within its narrow
+channel. First in the practical working of steam-ship architecture, the
+Clyde may be safely said to maintain its pre-eminence over every other
+river in the world.
+
+THE BROOMIELAW BRIDGE, which forms so prominent a feature in the
+engraving, was begun after a design by Mr. Telford, the late celebrated
+engineer, and built by Messrs. Gibb and Son. It is faced with Aberdeen
+granite, and has a very gentle acclivity. It is 560 feet in length over
+the _newals_, and sixty feet in width over the parapets: it has seven
+arches, and is wider than any river-bridge in the kingdom.
+
+_Tides._--The tide at Greenock is two hours earlier than at Glasgow. At
+places situated near the ocean, the tide flows nearly as long as it
+ebbs. At Greenock it flows generally about six hours, but at Glasgow it
+flows only for five hours and ebbs in about seven; this, however, is
+modified by the winds. High winds in the Clyde affect the time and
+elevation of high-water; and by considering the form and course of the
+Frith of Clyde, it is obvious that a gale from a northerly quarter, by
+opposing the flow of the tide, will cause the _time_ of high-water to be
+earlier, and the _height_ of the water to be less, than would otherwise
+be the case; while a gale from an opposite direction, acting in concert
+with the flowing tide, will produce a contrary effect.
+
+The merchants and citizens of Glasgow have ever been characterised as a
+loyal, patriotic, and generous people. When the country was suffering
+under civil war, they raised an armed force in defence of their civil
+and religious liberties, and when menaced by the enemies of their
+country they stood nobly forward in its defence. In times of local
+distress their liberality knows no bounds; and their support of
+religious and benevolent institutions has never been surpassed in any
+community. That the citizens of Glasgow have done honour to departed
+worth is abundantly proved by the monuments and statues erected in the
+city; and that their gratitude is not confined to the dead is daily
+evinced by their respect and admiration of living merit. Such is the
+testimony borne to them by one of their fellow-citizens. Such they are
+known to be in their intercourse with strangers; and none, we will
+venture to say, have ever spent a week in the precincts of the
+Broomielaw, and shared in its hospitalities, without a cordial assent to
+the city motto--_Let Glasgow flourish!_
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: THE SOLWAY.
+
+(from Harrington Harbour)]
+
+
+
+
+THE SOLWAY FRITH,
+
+FROM HARRINGTON PIER.
+
+
+    "The sun sets with a rosy smile
+    On Criffel's peak and Mona's isle;
+    The wave assumes a deeper blue,
+    The mountain wears a brighter hue,
+    And many a seaman on the mast
+    Unfurls his canvas to the blast."
+
+Harrington is a small maritime village, about two miles from Workington,
+with a commodious harbour opening on St. George's Channel, which is a
+prolific source of industry to this portion of the coast. The outward
+trade consists chiefly of coal and lime, in both of which the immediate
+district abounds. The limekilns of Dissington, and the coal-mines of
+Workington are the sources from which these exports are obtained in
+excellent quality, and which employ a great number of hands in the
+several departments of mining, burning, carting, and exportation to the
+opposite coasts of Scotland, Ireland, and the Isle of Man, where the
+cargoes are readily disposed of, and such articles selected for
+importation as the season, or the peculiar state of the markets at home,
+appear to recommend. In this manner a degree of local prosperity is
+insured, and another efficient nursery of seamen kept up by the spirited
+ship-owners in their regular intercourse with the neighbouring coasts.
+It is by the combined influence of such nurseries that the maritime
+power of England first acquired, and still maintains, her supremacy at
+sea; and to the thousand harbours by which she is encircled she is
+indebted for those naval victories which, under Providence, have
+preserved her integrity and independence amidst the shock of surrounding
+nations. The humblest fisherman on the waters of the Solway, if
+thoroughly skilled in the management of his trim-built craft, is not
+without his importance in the scale of national utility; for the same
+qualifications which give him superiority among the comrades of his
+hardy calling, would procure him distinction on the deck of a
+seventy-four. No effort should be spared to encourage nautical science
+wherever men and ships are to be found on our coasts. "Britannia rules
+the waves" only by those "hearts of oak" which have been so long and
+devotedly at her command, and her real strength and security consist,
+not in the number of her ships or their weight of metal, but in the
+education and discipline of her native seamen, whose uncompromising
+gallantry has long passed into a proverb. But from this digression we
+return to the subject more particularly under notice.
+
+Harrington, it appears, was the hereditary domain of the ancient and
+baronial family of that name, the title of which became extinct in 1457.
+It was proposed to carry the railway, alluded to in our notice of
+Maryport, across the upper part of Harrington, by means of a bridge or
+viaduct; but the objections to such a measure, so far as it would affect
+the maritime interests of this place are insurmountable. The report of
+the committee appointed by the Lords of the Treasury to examine this
+subject on the spot is as follows: "The whole extent of this harbour is
+only seven hundred and sixty-two feet in length, and two hundred and
+twenty in breadth, and as it is used as well for a port of refuge as for
+lading, and there is an insufficiency of space for vessels to anchor and
+swing in, an artificial beach has been formed at the eastern or upper
+end, on which they are enabled to bring up. The proposed viaduct would
+cut off about a third of the harbour. This would not only be
+objectionable on account of its diminishing the capacity of the port,
+but also by its depriving the shipping of the artificial beach to which
+we have just alluded. The objection to curtailing the size of the
+harbour will be apparent, when we state that the harbour-master supplied
+us with a return, verified by the Custom-house officer, by which we find
+that in the course of the year, 1839, no fewer than _five hundred and
+ten_ vessels used this port; and that during the gales of wind it was
+frequently so full that they were in actual contact from side to side.
+After well considering this part of the subject, we are of opinion that,
+whatever expense or other inconvenience it might cause, it would be
+necessary to adopt some other mode of carrying the railway past
+Harrington than that proposed."
+
+The population of this port is gradually increasing. The number of
+shipping is also increased; and altogether Harrington may be pronounced
+as in a flourishing condition. The light now at the pier-head was first
+used in 1797, and is always exhibited when there is a depth of eight
+feet water in the harbour. It is a fixed light, hoisted upon a mast
+forty-four feet above high water, and in clear weather may be seen at
+the distance of ten miles at sea.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: ALLONBY.]
+
+
+
+
+ALLONBY.
+
+CUMBERLAND.
+
+
+    "Why droops my Flower of Allerdale!
+    So sad, so pensive, and so pale;
+    Whence the tear that dims thine eye--
+    That downcast look and frequent sigh!
+    The breeze of ALLONBY shall bring
+    Back to thy cheek the rose of Spring."
+
+The banks of the Solway are much frequented during the summer months by
+families from the interior, who resort thither for the benefit of
+sea-bathing, to which great importance is attached as a preventive, no
+less than a curative, process in the economy of health. Among the
+various localities selected for this enjoyment, Allonby bears a
+long-established reputation, and is annually resorted to by many
+families of distinction and respectability, from both sides of the
+Channel, who seek, in the invigorating air of the sea, the pleasures of
+social intercourse, and in the delicious walks and drives with which the
+coast abounds, the restoration of health or temporary relaxation from
+business. Several of the distinguished public characters of the day have
+here spent the recesses of Parliament, and found in the tranquillising
+atmosphere of Allonby a safe remedy for the enervating influence of the
+capital, and the cares and irritations of public life. It was long a
+favourite resort of the Scottish gentry, and still maintains a degree of
+pre-eminence as an attractive watering-place. The accommodation at the
+hotels is excellent, and they are furnished with every convenience for
+hot-baths.
+
+Allonby is only five miles from Maryport, and ten from Wigton, and is
+flanked by a fine undulating country, celebrated as a field for rural
+sports, and industriously cultivated by a numerous and thriving
+population. The village itself is small, its permanent inhabitants being
+considerably under a thousand, most of whom depend upon the annual
+visitors, and a share in the herring-fishery, for the means of life. The
+latter, however, has become much less productive than formerly; the
+herrings are very capricious in their visits, and, according to
+Hutchinson, after continuing the same annual track for ten years, change
+their route, and only resume their visit after an interval of ten years.
+In this respect, says our authority, they are as regular as the tides
+or the vicissitudes of the seasons: but, as annual "customers" for the
+net, these savoury visitors are not to be depended upon; and although,
+like Owen Glendower, the anxious fisherman may call up "spirits from the
+vasty deep," the question is, will they come?
+
+Allonby has the benefit of good assembly-rooms, a reading-room, a free
+school, and two other daily schools; and here too that exemplary body of
+men--the Quakers--who are numerous and influential in this county, have
+a meeting-house. The character of these dissenters from the Established
+Church is generally praiseworthy; and in this part of Cumberland, where
+they have long been established, their reputation as a moral, peaceable,
+and industrious community, is established by the daily evidence of facts
+and the testimony of all who have enjoyed their intimate and personal
+intercourse. The Society of Friends--such as they are in this
+district--bear a closer resemblance to those primitive Christians
+secluded among the Alps of Piedmont than to any other religious body
+with which we are acquainted.
+
+Allonby enjoys the honour of having given birth, in 1741, to Captain
+Joseph Huddart, of the Royal Society, a man of great scientific
+acquirements, and eminent as a naval engineer and hydrographer. The
+patronage of the chapel founded here by the Rev. Dr. Thomlinson, and
+consecrated in the eventful year 1745, is vested in the representatives
+of that distinguished churchman. The Gill, a seat of the Reay family;
+West Newton, the ancient residence of the Musgraves; Langrigg Hall, the
+fortalice of the Barwis family, are among the domestic relics of the
+"olden time," which give an interesting character to this district. But,
+with the fall of that despotism from which they rose, these feudal
+mansions have been left to decay, except in a few instances where the
+progress of dilapidation has been arrested by the taste of the
+proprietor, and the Border tower of his ancestors preserved as a
+landmark to indicate the vast progress which has been effected since
+then in all the departments of civilised life. Crookdake Hall,
+celebrated as the residence of "the worthy warrior, Adam of Crookdake,"
+is now a farm-house; and in the very court, probably, where the knight
+and his retainers once donned their mail for the onslaught, or displayed
+their booty after a successful raid across the "marches," the spectator
+sees only the homely instruments of domestic husbandry, where the sword
+is literally "converted to a ploughshare, and the spear to a
+pruning-hook."
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: MARYPORT.]
+
+
+
+
+MARYPORT,
+
+CUMBERLAND.
+
+
+    "Here Solway's silver wave expands;
+    There Scotia's mountains gleam;
+    While Skiddaw's giant crest commands
+    Hill, valley, lake, and stream."
+
+Maryport derives its name from that of a patriotic lady in the
+neighbourhood, the wife of Mr. Humphry Senhouse, of Netherhall,[15] who,
+in 1750, took a lively interest in the place, and, with the assistance
+of her family connexion and the spirited inhabitants of the place,
+succeeded in raising it to the distinction of a port town; a title to
+which it has added many additional claims within the last ten years. The
+original name was Ellenfoot, so called from its situation at the
+embouchure of the river Elne with the Solway. It is a chapelry of Cross
+Canonby, or Crosby--a parochial village about three miles distant; in
+the church, dedicated to St. John, are several ancient monuments of the
+Senhouse family, already mentioned, one of whom, Richard Senhouse, was
+bishop of Carlisle in 1624.
+
+The commerce of Maryport, according to the last report, is decidedly on
+the increase; and the many advantages it possesses for ship-building and
+refitting are more and more appreciated by all trading-vessels
+frequenting this coast. The exports consist principally of coal for
+Scotland and Ireland, which is furnished in great abundance by
+collieries in this district, and affords the means of comfortable
+subsistence to a hardy race of seamen, who, in the hour of danger, have
+often "done the state some service." The importations consist of timber,
+flax, and iron, from the Baltic, and various articles of domestic
+utility from the opposite coasts. The herring-fishery has hitherto been
+prosecuted with great success; upwards of twenty boats were lately
+engaged in this enterprise. In winter, the boat-crews are employed in
+the taking of cod-fish, which is here caught in great abundance, and
+finds a ready sale on the market-days of Tuesday and Friday. The river
+Ellen, or Elne, affords no inconsiderable supply of salmon-trout during
+the season; and as the daily steam-vessels running between Carlisle,
+the Scottish coast, and Liverpool, generally touch at Maryport for the
+convenience of passengers, there is a constant air of bustle and
+activity about the pier that renders the place very agreeable as a
+sojourn in the summer months. The view across the Frith is one of the
+finest on the coast, and the inland scenery is proverbially beautiful.
+It is only six miles from Cockermouth; and is further enlivened by the
+continual traffic along the great coast-road which connects it with
+Carlisle on the east, and with Workington and Whitehaven on the west.
+
+The county of Cumberland abounds in vestiges of Roman domination, and to
+the eye of the antiquary presents a fertile field of investigation. Of
+all these, however, the Roman wall is the most remarkable. It was built
+by the Emperor Adrian early in the second century, as a barrier against
+the Caledonians, and extended across the whole island from sea to sea.
+Its length was one hundred miles, and its breadth six feet, by twelve in
+height. In its course it had twenty-five strong castles, planted at
+regular distances; the foundations of which, as well as of the wall
+itself, can still be traced, and in some places present a solid mass of
+several feet above the ground. Besides these there are also Roman,
+Danish, or Saxon encampments, in various parts of the county, as well as
+ancient Roman and British causeways, and several remains of Druidical
+circles.
+
+The great store of antiquarian treasure lies, however, at a short walk
+from Maryport, where the Romans have left abundant proofs of their long
+sojourn on the banks of the Solway. The character of the present work,
+however, does not permit our enlarging on this subject; but to all those
+who visit Allonby or Maryport during the summer, and have a taste for
+antiquarian lore, the scene thus briefly adverted to will furnish a
+source of many classical reminiscences.
+
+[15] Netherhall, the seat of Humphry Senhouse, Esq., contains a fine
+collection of Roman antiquities, found at Ellenborough. It was visited,
+so far back as 1599, by Sir Robert Cotton and his friend Camden.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: MARY-PORT PIER.
+
+Dedicated to the Rev. Humphrey Archer Hervey, Vicar of Bridekirk.]
+
+
+
+
+MARYPORT PIER.
+
+
+The subject of our engraving is a scene but too often visible on our
+coasts, and by no means peculiar to Maryport. The storm is evidently
+exhausting its fury upon the Pier and Lighthouse in vain, they are
+destined to sustain the shock of many such rude assaults, and to afford
+that shelter and warning to mariners so requisite in the hour of Ocean's
+rage. The coast of Cumberland is at all times of the year rough and
+inhospitable to the sailor; but at the equinoxes, especially the
+autumnal one, its dangers are more imminent; and the trading vessels in
+the Solway Frith and Irish Channel, are exposed to serious risk. Owing
+to the numerous shoals and sand-banks lying at various points, the
+navigation is at all times intricate; and even to those best acquainted
+with its peculiarities, the passage from Ireland is frequently attended
+with greater hazard than many longer voyages.
+
+The Town of Maryport is the subject of another view, and in the notice
+accompanying it will be found such particulars as we could glean in
+connection with this small but bustling port. The Pier itself, though
+well adapted for the purposes of illustration, is not a subject upon
+which we can profitably occupy the reader's attention; we shall,
+therefore, avail ourselves of the opportunity thus afforded us to say a
+few words upon one of the finest of the English lakes, situated within a
+few miles of Maryport, and a visit to which is a favourite excursion
+with its inhabitants and visitors. It is to the far-famed Derwent Water
+that we allude. It occupies a beautiful valley, surrounded by romantic
+mountains; its shores and islands, covered with luxurious wood, and
+towards Keswick its northern extremity opening to a spacious and fertile
+plain. The mountains on the eastern side of the lake are finely broken,
+in some places presenting precipices mingled with copse-wood and
+verdure; the chasms of the rocks discharging a great many streams in
+beautiful falls. The mountains on the western side of Derwent Water are
+more regular in their forms, generally verdant, and adorned with a
+profusion of wood near the water's edge. At the southern extremity of
+the lake, three miles from the town, is Lowdore waterfall, the height of
+which is said to be not less than 200 feet. It is a very considerable
+stream, rushing through an immense chasm, and bounding over huge blocks
+of stone, with which the channel is filled. Near the fall is Gowdar
+Crag and Shepherd's Crag, constituting one of the finest scenes amongst
+the lakes.
+
+The manor of Derwentwater belonged to a family which derived their name
+from it. In the reign of Henry VI., the heiress of Sir John de
+Derwentwater married Sir Nicholas Radcliffe, of Dilston, in
+Northumberland, whose descendant, Sir Francis Radcliffe, was created by
+King James II. Earl of Derwentwater, &c. James, the second earl, having
+been engaged in the rebellion of 1715, was beheaded on Tower-hill; and
+the Derwentwater estates, becoming forfeited to the Crown, were granted
+to Greenwich Hospital, by Act of Parliament. Lords' Island, in the lake,
+was the residence of the earls.
+
+The beautiful scenery of Derwent Water, said to be about ten miles in
+circumference, has often been described. St. Herbert's Island is named
+from a hermitage dedicated to that saint. Vicar's Island formerly
+belonged to Fountain's Abbey. Rampsholm, a small island, is covered with
+wood. The fish in greatest estimation in the lake is a sort of salmon
+trout. The celebrated mountain Skiddaw, in this vicinity, said to be
+about 3036 feet in height, extends to several townships; that part which
+is in Crossthwaite parish is within the townships of Under Skiddaw and
+Crossthwaite, and comprises the manor of Brundholm. The mountain is easy
+of access; and, standing in some measure detached, the view from the
+summit, particularly to the north and west, is not intercepted by other
+mountains: it comprehends the principal part of the county, including
+the coast from St. Bees Head to the head of Solway Frith, with its
+several bays and promontories, the Isle of Man, and a considerable
+portion of the southern part of Scotland. The summit of
+Ingleborough-hill, in Yorkshire, may be seen over the range of hills
+bounding the head of Ullswater; and a glimpse of the sea near Lancaster
+is obtained through the gap of Dunmel Raise. Derwent Water and
+Bassenthwaite lake are the only lakes seen, and but one of these from
+the summit. The views from the neighbouring mountains may exceed in
+grandeur the view from the summit of this, but in no other ascent are
+the prospects equalled, which unfold themselves when overlooking the
+lake and vale of Keswick, with Borrowdale and Newlands mountains.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: WORKINGTON.
+
+(Cumberland.)]
+
+
+
+
+WORKINGTON,
+
+CUMBERLAND.
+
+
+    When MARY lost the Scottish throne
+    And saw the Stuarts' sceptre fall,
+    She fled--but found in Workington
+    A friend and hospitable hall.
+
+The town and harbour of Workington is situated on the south bank of the
+Derwent, near its entrance to the Irish sea; it is about seven miles
+north of Whitehaven, and thirty-four south of Carlisle. It is divided
+into the upper and lower towns. Leland, in his venerable _Itinerary_,
+describes "Wyrkenton" as "a lytle prety fyssher-town;" and in his day,
+indeed, most of the maritime stations on this coast, which have
+subsequently risen into importance, were nothing more than "pretty
+little fisher-towns." It is also noticed by Camden as distinguished for
+its salmon-fishery, owing to its favourable position at the mouth of the
+river Derwent, whose scenery holds so distinguished a place in the
+poetry of the Lakes.
+
+The public buildings of Workington are chiefly of modern date, and the
+houses disposed into two clusters in that called the Upper town. In the
+area of the new square is the corn-market, and at a short distance are
+the assembly rooms and theatre, both of which, though small, are by no
+means destitute of taste and elegance. It has a weekly market on
+Wednesday for corn, and on Wednesday and Saturday for butchers' meat.
+The church of St. Michael, forming a prominent object in the centre of
+the Engraving, is a rectory in the patronage of the Curwen family, and
+contains a monument of Sir Patrick Curwen, Bart., who died in 1661. The
+chief source of industry here, as at Whitehaven and other towns of the
+coast, is the coal-mines, which, in the vicinity of Workington, amount
+to sixteen or upwards, with a depth of from forty to ninety fathoms. The
+coal lies in bands or seams, divided from each other by intermediate
+strata. Of these the uppermost is generally three feet thick, the second
+four, and the third, or lowest, from ten to twelve feet. The extraneous
+matter that separates the former varies considerably; but the covering
+of the main coal is of the finest white freestone, about twenty yards
+thick. When the "new seam," as it was then called, was first discovered
+at Chapel-bank, the event was celebrated by the late proprietor, Mr.
+Curwen, by a splendid festival, and a vast concourse of the inhabitants
+and neighbours assembled to drink success to the "black diamond."
+
+The quantity of coal shipped from this port, per week, amounted latterly
+to two thousand tons or upwards, and the raising of which, with the aid
+of several steam-engines, afford employment to between six and seven
+hundred workmen. The agricultural society of Workington has contributed
+much to the improvement of the county, and owes its origin to the
+spirited and indefatigable example of the late proprietor of these
+mines. A staith or loading stage for collier vessels is seen on the
+right hand of the illustration. It is an object more valuable for its
+utility than for any beauty in an artistic point of view; but it is a
+distinguishing characteristic of all the ports engaged in the
+coal-trade, and, wherever it can be rendered available, reduces the
+expenses of the coal-owner, by obviating the necessity for keels or
+lighters.
+
+The mansion of the Curwen family--or hall, as it is more generally
+designated--was formerly a castle of great strength; and,
+notwithstanding the numerous alterations it has undergone since the
+feudal epoch, still presents a noble and imposing feature in the
+landscape. In this hospitable fortalice Queen Mary was received and
+entertained by its generous owner, the ancestor of the present Mr.
+Curwen, till the royal pleasure of Elizabeth could be ascertained as to
+her future disposal. The chamber in which she slept is still a recording
+testimony of the fact, and retains the name of the "Queen's chamber,"
+where we may well believe--
+
+    "Uneasy lay the head that wore a crown."
+
+The mountains of Cumberland--some of which form the background in the
+present view--are exceedingly numerous, lofty, and of striking
+conformation. Around the lakes they are often finely grouped, generally
+clothed with copse-wood: here pastoral, and dotted with flocks; and
+there rugged, precipitous, and hewn into deep ravines by those
+thundering torrents which convey their foaming tribute to the lakes.
+Every mountain in Cumberland has its name celebrated in poetry--every
+lake has been the subject of some inspired lyric; and such was the
+favour in which the charming scenery of this county was held by several
+of the master-spirits of the age, that the lakes of Cumberland and the
+adjoining county were adopted as their residence, and from their banks
+the strains of Wordsworth and Southey were welcomed as the genuine
+emanations of inspired minds.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: WHITEHAVEN,
+
+(with St. Bees-head.)]
+
+
+
+
+WHITEHAVEN,
+
+CUMBERLAND.
+
+
+    "The town beneath, the sea before thee;
+      Fruitful groves and flow'ry dells;
+    Rocks and headlands tow'ring o'er thee,
+      All behind thee--lakes and fells!
+
+    "Look around thee, gentle stranger,
+      On harvest fields and pastures green;--
+    In lands where thou hast been a ranger,
+      Fairer hast thou ever seen!"
+
+The town of Whitehaven may be considered as a national monument to the
+creative influence of trade. Favoured by the geological character of its
+soil, and fostered by native industry, it has risen in the comparatively
+brief interval of a hundred and eighty years, to a position of eminence
+among the minor ports and harbours of Great Britain. What in the middle
+of the seventeenth century consisted, according to written testimony, of
+only six fishermen's huts and one small bark, is now a flourishing town,
+enlivened by trade and commerce, with a commodious harbour, extensive
+shipping, and enterprising merchants.
+
+The bay on which the town of Whitehaven is erected is so deeply seated,
+that the adjacent shore, rising like the grades of a magnificent
+amphitheatre, appears to enclose it on every side. In approaching it
+from the north, the stranger is uniformly struck with its sheltered
+position, and from the heights looks down upon it as on a map spread at
+his feet. From the south the view is particularly beautiful. The town is
+well built, the streets wide and enlivened with well-furnished shops,
+and inhabited by a cheerful and thriving population. Like Longtown, on
+the Border, Whitehaven is built after a correct plan; the streets cross
+each other at right angles, presenting much architectural regularity,
+and combining with the air of internal comfort the outward signs of
+taste and elegance. The public improvements continue to advance in
+proportion to the extent of commercial intercourse, and to this,
+apparently, every succeeding year throws open some new channel. The
+introduction of steam-navigation between all the adjacent as well as
+opposite coasts, has powerfully contributed to stimulate the native
+industry of the place, by increasing the demand for coal--its staple
+produce--to which we shall more particularly advert in our notice of the
+harbour.
+
+The situation of Whitehaven in a narrow valley, extending to the village
+of St. Bees--a distance of several miles--unites with the appearance of
+seclusion much of that picturesque beauty for which the inland districts
+of the county are so justly celebrated. St. Bees'-head is a bold and
+striking feature, and contrasts admirably with the softer scenes from
+which it projects, as the most imposing landmark on this part of the
+Channel.
+
+The population of Whitehaven has greatly increased within the last ten
+years. The neighbouring villages, farms, and pastures, all indicate
+progressive advancement in the several branches of domestic industry.
+The land is highly cultivated, and in many instances fertile and
+productive; while the orchards and gardens, by the nature and abundance
+of their produce, bear friendly testimony to the mildness of the
+climate.
+
+To the Lowther family, who have a handsome castle here, Whitehaven owes
+its foundation as a borough, and much of its prosperity as a trading
+port. To the munificence of its patrons--and especially to the Earl of
+Lonsdale, who has spared neither personal expense nor political
+influence to facilitate every object which held out the promise of
+permanent advantage to the inhabitants, it is eminently indebted. And in
+return, it may be justly observed, that whatever the patron has expended
+in improving the town and harbour, the people have repaid by increased
+attachment to the interests of their benefactor. The inhabitants of
+Whitehaven are noted for their public spirit, honourable conduct in
+trade, and for that indefatigable attention to business which has so
+happily distinguished them through a long series of years. It has
+several schools, two weekly papers, and the study of literature and
+science is much cultivated and encouraged by the families of affluence
+and respectability who reside in the town and vicinity. Social and
+hospitable intercourse, with balls, assemblies, and public fetes, render
+the stranger's residence at Whitehaven extremely agreeable. It offers,
+in general, all the luxuries of a country town, with few or none of its
+disadvantages; and presents at all times the means of prompt intercourse
+with the great commercial emporium of Liverpool, the coasts of Scotland,
+Ireland, Wales, and the Isle of Man. Independently of its immediate
+vicinity to the Lakes, it would be difficult to point out any situation
+in the northern counties which enjoys so many attractions in regard to
+situation, scenery, and society, as the picturesque and prosperous town
+of Whitehaven.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: WHITEHAVEN HARBOUR.]
+
+
+
+
+WHITEHAVEN HARBOUR.
+
+
+In another article we have given some descriptive particulars of the
+town of Whitehaven and its vicinity, and have therefore in the present
+instance to confine our attention to the harbour, an excellent view of
+which forms the subject of our engraving.
+
+We have previously stated that Whitehaven is mainly indebted to the
+Lowther family for its rise and progress as a trading port. By Sir John
+Lowther, an ancestor of this house, the lands of the dissolved monastery
+of St. Bees were purchased for his second son, Sir Christopher, early in
+the reign of Charles the First; and, as the use of coals first became
+general at this period, the new proprietor determined on improving his
+estate by opening a colliery. In this, however, little progress was made
+till after the Restoration, when Sir John Lowther, his successor, formed
+a plan for working the mines on a very extensive scale, and with this
+view obtained considerable grants of unappropriated land in the
+district, which was secured to him in 1666. Two years later he obtained
+a further accession of property, including a parliamentary gift of the
+whole sea-coast for two miles northward, between high and low
+water-mark. He next turned his attention to the port, which was neither
+large nor convenient, and by his judicious schemes laid the foundation
+of the present haven. Since that important epoch it has been greatly and
+gradually improved, particularly since an act of parliament was obtained
+to finish the original plan, and to keep it in repair, by a moderate
+tonnage on shipping. In its present form it is protected and
+strengthened by several piers, or moles, of compact stonework, three of
+which project in parallel lines from the land; a fourth, bending in the
+form of a crescent, has a watchhouse and battery, with a handsome
+lighthouse at its extremity. At low water, the port is nearly dry, so
+that the shipping within the moles lie as if in dry docks.
+
+Adjoining the harbour, on the west side of the town, is the
+coal-_staith_, or magazine, where coal for exportation is deposited to
+the amount of several thousand waggon-loads. Eight or ten, and
+occasionally twelve, vessels, each carrying a hundred tons and upwards,
+are commonly loaded at one tide, at an expense of only ten shillings
+each, so great are the facilities contrived for this purpose. The method
+is this: the greatest part of the road from the pit runs along an
+inclined plain, on which are railways communicating with covered
+galleries, which terminate in large flues, or _hurries_, placed sloping
+over the quay. When loaded, the waggons run by their own weight from the
+pit to the magazine, where, their bottoms being struck out, the coals
+are dropped into the _hurries_, and thence with a noise like thunder
+descend into the holds of the vessels.
+
+Whitehaven forms one of a chain of ports on the north-western coast of
+England, which owe their commercial importance to the demand for coals.
+This branch of trade has long been famous as a nursery of hardy and
+intelligent seamen, and the naval service of the country has, in times
+of war, been chiefly indebted to the numerous body of men who have,
+either voluntarily or by compulsion, exchanged their services from the
+humble collier to a more distinguished, though less lucrative, position
+on the deck of a line-of-battle ship. Years have now passed since there
+has been any occasion to disturb the arrangements of our commercial
+marine for this purpose; and it is to be fervently hoped that the
+advancing civilisation of the age will preclude the re-enactment of such
+scenes of misery and crime as must ever accompany the system of
+impressment and forced service.
+
+Most of the coal exported from this haven is conveyed to Ireland; and
+the annual quantity raised, on an average of twenty years, was formerly
+under 100,000 chaldrons; but of late years the export trade in this
+department is understood to have greatly increased. In the Whitehaven
+coal-mines there have happened from time to time lamentable catastrophes
+by the explosion of foul air, attended by great sacrifice of life. It is
+painful to reflect, that, with all the means which, in this scientific
+and inventive age, have been recommended and adopted, no effectual plan
+has hitherto been devised for the prevention of these sad and appalling
+accidents.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: ST. BEES COLLEGE.]
+
+
+
+
+ST. BEES' COLLEGE.
+
+
+            "C'est-la qu'amante du desert,
+    La meditation avec plaisir se perd
+    Sous ces portiques saints."
+
+        DELILLE.
+
+The village of St. Bees is a place of great antiquity, and holds a
+distinguished place among the theological seminaries of the kingdom,
+owing to the high reputation of the late Dr. Ainger, and his able and
+distinguished successor, the Rev. W. Buddicom, principal of the college.
+The chapel, which is built of freestone, is part of an ancient church
+belonging to a monastery, founded here by St. Bega, a holy woman of the
+seventh century. The form of the building is that of a cross. The
+western portion, or nave, is now fitted up as the parish church, the
+great door of which is ornamented with grotesque heads, chevron
+mouldings, and other ornamental work in the ancient ecclesiastical
+style. It formerly contained a large wooden statue of Anthony, the last
+Lord Lucy of Egremont.
+
+The original building having been destroyed by the Danes, William, son
+of Ralph de Meschines, Earl of Cumberland, undertook its restoration in
+the reign of Henry the First, and made it a cell for the prior and six
+Benedictine monks to the Abbey of St. Mary, at York. It was endowed, at
+the dissolution of monasteries and religious houses, with a hundred and
+fifty pounds, and granted by Edward the Sixth, along with the manor,
+rectory, and other estates, to Sir Thomas Challoner; but afterwards
+revoked, and given by Queen Mary to the Bishop of Chester and his
+successors.
+
+The eastern part of the abbey, built in the thirteenth century, was
+fitted up about twenty-four years ago as a college, containing a public
+hall and lecture-room for the students, the end of the ancient
+cross-aisle being converted into a library, with an excellent collection
+of approved works on divinity. This valuable institution was commenced
+under the auspices of the late Bishop of Chester, Dr. Law. Its object is
+to afford such young men of the northern provinces as have not the
+opportunity of prosecuting their studies at Oxford or Cambridge, the
+means of fitting themselves for entering into holy orders; and the
+success which has already attended this pious and patriotic measure has
+been highly gratifying. Previous to admission, it is expected that every
+candidate shall furnish evidence of his having received a classical
+school-education, with testimonials of moral character; and, after two
+years' study, he is entitled to be received on trial for ordination. A
+gentleman who lately studied here, and who is now a most efficient and
+zealous minister of the Church, speaks in very favourable terms of the
+judicious arrangement which has latterly marked the theological course
+at St. Bees; and improvements still more decided, it appears, are in
+contemplation under its present administration.
+
+Edmund Grindall, Archbishop of Canterbury, was a native of Hensingham,
+in this parish; and, in 1583, obtained letters-patent for the foundation
+of a free grammar-school at St. Bees, in which gratuitous instruction in
+the classics was provided for a hundred boys. This institution is under
+the management of a corporation of seven governors, two of whom are the
+provost of Queen's College, Oxford, and the rector of Egremont.
+
+It has produced several learned characters, among whom was the pious Dr.
+Hall,[16] bishop of Norwich, whose eventful life is familiar to every
+reader of ecclesiastical history. Much of the prosperity of the village
+of St. Bees depends on the lodgings which it supplies to the students
+during term.
+
+The parish of St. Bees is of great extent; and, judging from the ruins
+still observable, must have been fortified by the Romans at all the
+convenient landing-places along the shore, which here, and particularly
+to the northward, presents many vestiges of their military occupation.
+The village stands on the margin of the bay formed by the southern
+promontory of St. Bees'-head.
+
+[16] Dr. Hall was born in 1574, and, in 1624, refused the see of
+Gloucester; but three years afterwards accepted that of Exeter, from
+which he was translated, in 1641, to that of Norwich. A few years
+subsequent to this event he was sent to the tower, with twelve other
+prelates, for protesting against any laws passed in Parliament during
+their forced absence from the House. In June of the following year he
+obtained his release; but shortly after suffered much persecution from
+the Puritans, who plundered his house and despoiled the cathedral. His
+private estate was also sequestered; and thus in his old age he was
+reduced to poverty, which he bore with great fortitude, and continued to
+preach as long as his health permitted. He was author of the well-known
+_Meditations_, was a poet of considerable genius, and with great wit and
+learning united a spirit of true meekness and piety. His works have
+gained for him the appellation of "the Christian Seneca." He died in
+1656.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: ST. BEES HEAD.]
+
+
+
+
+ST. BEES'-HEAD.
+
+
+    "When tempests rage, and nights are long and dark,
+    The 'Light of Barath' guides the wilder'd bark."
+
+This lofty headland, anciently known as the "Cliff of Barath," is a
+conspicuous object to vessels in the north-east part of the Irish
+channel--bold, abrupt, and precipitous towards the sea; but presenting,
+as it slopes inland, a fine undulating and pastoral mass of verdure,
+through which, at intervals, projecting fragments of rock discover its
+geological character. The succession of deeply indented and rugged
+precipices which it presents seaward, is singularly wild and
+picturesque; and during gales from the southward the scene is one of the
+most sublime that can be conceived.
+
+The lighthouse which occupies the summit, was first erected in 1718,
+with a fixed light at an elevation of three hundred and thirty-three
+feet above high water, which in clear weather is visible at a distance
+of twenty miles. But in January, 1823, a new light, consisting of nine
+reflectors, was first exhibited, which has doubtless been the means of
+rescuing from destruction many lives and much valuable property.
+
+The view from the summit of this cliff is particularly
+striking--embracing all the bolder features of the Scottish shore--the
+Isle of Man, and an expanse of sea which, however the wind may blow, is
+always enlivened with shipping. Besides the exportation of coal, which
+is immense, there are several vessels employed in the exportation of
+lime, freestone, alabaster, and grain, and in the importation of West
+Indian, American, and Baltic produce, flax and linen from Ireland, and
+pig-iron from Wales.
+
+The parish of St. Bees, is very extensive, and includes some picturesque
+mountain scenery, among which may be enumerated the views from those
+peculiarly named hills Hard-knot, Wry-nose, and Scafell. The highest
+point of this range, Scafell, is three thousand one hundred and sixty
+feet above the level of the sea, at this height very little vegetation
+is met with; huge masses of stone piled one upon the other, in
+alternations of different strata, give to the whole a ridged or furrowed
+appearance of a singular character. The visitors to "the Lakes" may here
+gratify their taste for the romantic by visiting the beautiful valley of
+Buttermere, situated about midway between St. Bees and Keswick. This
+lake or mere, so widely known and so highly praised, is about a mile and
+a quarter in length, and nearly half a mile in breadth; it is connected
+by a little stream with Crummock lake, which has three or four small
+islands, but these are placed too near the shore to add much to its
+beauty. The best general views of the lake are from the Hause, a rocky
+point on the eastern side, and from the road between Scale-hill and
+Lowes-water. Both lakes are well stocked with trout and char. Scale
+Force, near Buttermere, has a fall of more than one hundred and fifty
+feet, and is very nearly perpendicular, besides uniting its waters with
+a small fall below: it is said to be the deepest in the lake district.
+The water is precipitated into a tremendous chasm between two mural
+rocks of sienite, beautifully overhung with trees, which have their
+roots in the crevices, and the sides are clad with a profusion of plants
+which glitter in the spray of the fall. At Buttermere is situated the
+Sour Milk Gill, a waterfall so termed from the frothy whiteness of its
+surface, which has been supposed to resemble butter-milk fresh from the
+churn. The temptation to indulge in reminiscences of the innumerable
+views of interest with which this vicinity abounds, has led us to ramble
+far from the description of the promontory which forms our subject; but
+this is less to be regretted as it has afforded us an opportunity of
+calling the reader's attention to a country that yields to none in the
+United Kingdom in point of natural beauties, and which is every
+succeeding year becoming a more fashionable resort.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: SCENE AT FLEETWOOD, ON WYRE]
+
+
+
+
+FLEETWOOD-ON-WYRE,
+
+LANCASHIRE.
+
+
+    "The day shall come when FLEETWOOD's port shall be
+    The favour'd Harbour of the great and free;
+    Hither, when vex'd with boist'rous wave and wind,
+    The struggling mast a safe retreat shall find;
+    Here, from the sunny land of conch and pearl,
+    The stately bark her weary sail shall furl."
+
+        _Fleetwood: A Poem._
+
+The name of Fleetwood is associated, prospectively, with the first
+commercial ports of the kingdom. The illustration prefixed sufficiently
+indicates the use to which it is applied; but the rapidly increasing
+importance of this new maritime station is entitled to a more particular
+notice than the detached "scene" would appear to demand. Situated at the
+entrance to Morecombe Bay, on the river Wyre, the great natural
+advantages which it presents are hardly to be surpassed; and from the
+liberal spirit with which the operations are carried on, Fleetwood must
+shortly become one of the most frequented sea-ports on the British
+coast; combining, at the same time, all the recommendations of a
+commercial town, and a delightful watering-place. With Preston, from
+which it is distant only eighteen miles, it is connected by means of the
+railway through Poulton and Kirkham.
+
+The limits of the Port of Fleetwood, as determined by the Commissioners
+from the Court of Exchequer, are to "commence at a run of water called
+the Hundred-End, about two miles to the west of Hesketh-Bank, continuing
+up to Preston; thence along the coast, on the north side of the river,
+to Lytham; round the coast to Blackpool, and on to Fleetwood; thence to
+the river Broadfleet, four miles from Sea-Dyke, including both sides of
+the Wyre, and the river Broadfleet."
+
+The Commissioners appointed by Government to investigate the most
+eligible routes by railway, to facilitate communication between London,
+Ireland, and Scotland, reported that the harbour at Fleetwood--which by
+the Preston and Wyre Railway is put in communication with
+London--appears to them likely to form a good point of departure for the
+north of Ireland and the west of Scotland. Since this report was
+published, experiment has fully justified the opinion thus expressed.
+The capabilities of Fleetwood as a commercial port are of the first
+order; and the plans to render it such can be executed at a
+comparatively small expense. Its fine spacious harbour, extensive dock,
+cheap port-dues and dock-charges, cannot fail to attract a large share
+of the American cotton, timber, and other foreign trade; while the great
+recommendation of low charges induce the regular Belfast and Glasgow
+steam-vessels to frequent the port. There is a custom-house, with bonded
+warehouses for all ordinary merchandise, except East India goods and
+tobacco--unless removed coastwise for home use and ship's stores. In a
+very advantageous situation seaward, a very elegant and finely contrived
+light-house has been erected; and, in pursuance of the comprehensive
+schemes of Sir Hesketh Fleetwood, Bart., M.P., proprietor of the
+harbour, numerous buildings have sprung up in all directions, and upon
+ground which recently consisted of only a warren for rabbits. Among
+these buildings are a handsome church, and a large and beautiful hotel,
+the centre of which has seventy feet of frontage, besides two spacious
+wings of ninety feet each; the whole forming one splendid edifice of two
+hundred and ninety feet in length, and commanding an extent of marine
+scenery not to be surpassed in any part of the kingdom.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: BLACKPOOL.]
+
+
+
+
+BLACKPOOL.
+
+
+In referring to this watering-place for a second time we feel some
+difficulty; not that we have said all that can be put forth in connexion
+with its claims to the patronage of the health-seeking and
+pleasure-loving population of Lancashire and the surrounding counties,
+but because our desire has been to introduce, wherever possible, some
+historical notice of the places which form the subject of our artist's
+pencil, especially where, as in the present instance, more than one
+illustration has been given of the same town or port. We must, however,
+confess, that of Blackpool, historically considered, we have nothing to
+record. Its chronicles, if ever it possessed any, have been swallowed up
+by the encroaching waves, which have taken a large portion of what was
+once dry land to augment their liquid domains.
+
+About half-a-mile from the beach, the stranger's attention is directed
+to a small rock in the sea, called the "Pennystone," which, according to
+local tradition, marks the place where a public-house once stood on dry
+land. In this stone, it is added, were fixed iron hooks, to which
+travellers usually fastened their horses' bridles while they alighted to
+refresh themselves with "penny pots of beer,"--a circumstance
+perpetuated in the name which it still retains.
+
+At the south end of the town is the now dilapidated building called
+Vauxhall, where, in 1715, the Chevalier St. George lay for some time
+concealed, while the secret measures were concocting by his adherents
+for a general insurrection. This house belonged to the family of the
+Tyldesleys, who at that time, and long previously, had considerable
+possessions in this country; but being faithful adherents of the House
+of Stuart, they embraced the desperate cause of the royal exile with
+undissembled zeal. Sir Thomas Tyldesley, the head of the family at that
+moment, prepared this house for the reception of the royal adventurer;
+but this open declaration of his attachment proved ruinous to himself
+and his descendants. The last male heir joined the standard of the
+Chevalier in 1745. One of his ancestors was slain at the battle of Wigan
+Lane, in that county, while marching to the assistance of Charles II.; a
+monument to his memory was erected by one of his officers in 1679. It is
+still in tolerable preservation, and bears an appropriate inscription.
+
+East of Blackpool are situated the townships of Great and Little Marton,
+where a subterraneous forest has been discovered, by digging out the
+timber from which many of the peasantry obtain considerable sums. Some
+of the trees are sound enough to make agricultural instruments, barn
+roofs and fences, and even articles of ornamental furniture. Much of the
+land in this neighbourhood has been reclaimed from a state of marsh; and
+there are still remaining, within a few miles, a Moss comprising several
+thousand acres--so extensive, indeed, as to have passed into a local
+aphorism, "As inexhaustible as Pilling Moss," being an ordinary mode of
+expressing anything that is supposed to be without limit. This moss is
+reported to have, as lately as 1745, altered considerably in its level,
+and, by a movement to the south, to have destroyed one hundred acres of
+improved land. It affords a large supply of fuel for the district, and
+seems likely to continue to do so for generations to come.
+
+The little watering-place, from which we have thus wandered away, owes
+its name to a pool of water of more than ordinary darkness of colour,
+caused by the decaying vegetation of the marshes. It has now, however,
+disappeared under the hand of modern improvement, and given place to a
+supply of water more than usually pure, and which is not to be often
+found in such close proximity to the coast.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: BLACKPOOL SANDS.]
+
+
+
+
+BLACKPOOL.
+
+THE SANDS.
+
+
+    "Southward--old Cambria's Alpine charm
+    Cast their broad shadows o'er the plain;
+    Northward--the Cambrian summits swell
+    In many a glittering pinnacle;
+    In front--the waves, so darkly blue,
+    Refresh the heart and cheer the view;
+    While further--Mona's mountains swim
+    Like clouds upon the horizon's rim."
+
+Blackpool is a favourable instance of that spirit of enterprise which is
+at work on almost every point of the British coast, and under the
+creative influence of which so many obscure or little-frequented
+localities have suddenly risen into provincial, and even national
+importance. Wherever nature had thrown out any encouraging hint, it has
+been eagerly taken advantage of by the hand of art, and, under the
+guidance of taste and liberality, been turned into a source of public
+emolument. It is, comparatively, only a few years ago since Blackpool
+exhibited in its appearance nothing superior to that of an
+inconsiderable hamlet, with few visitors, less trade, and little
+opportunity of extending the sources of native industry. It is now a
+fashionable and well-frequented watering-place, deriving a certain
+annual revenue from its visitors, and enjoying a considerable share of
+trade, with every reasonable prospect of a progressive increase. These
+are gratifying facts which abundantly prove the healthful vigour with
+which the country is animated, and the boundless resources which are
+everywhere thrown open to native industry and talent.
+
+The line of coast at Blackpool runs in a nearly straight direction for
+several miles; and the cliffs which form the sea boundary, mostly clay,
+rise to various heights--the greatest elevation above high-water mark
+being about twenty yards. The sea-bank is lined with houses at
+considerable intervals to the extent of a mile or more; not grouped
+together as in villages, but each occupying a position independent of
+its neighbour. Most of those houses intended for the accommodation of
+visitors have an aspect due west, so as to command an uninterrupted
+marine view, which at this point presents a field of interest of which
+the mind and the eye are never weary. The land, gradually rising as it
+recedes from the beach, acquires a degree of elevation which excludes
+the eastern landscape; but for this defect the other points of the
+compass make ample amends, and present landscapes so varied and
+extensive as can be rarely met with on the coast of Great Britain. To
+the southward, at the distance of fifty miles or more, and gradually
+stretching forward till lost in the horizon, the "Cambrian Alps" present
+a grand and imposing feature, connected with glimpses of Cheshire,
+Flint, Caernarvon, and the Isle of Anglesea. On the north, the
+promontory of Furness, the mountainous features of Westmoreland,
+Cumberland, and the craggy summits of Lancashire, give a bold transition
+to the picture; while in front the dimly-visioned Mona finishes the
+panorama, and conjures up many a slumbering image and recollection of
+the past.
+
+The sea on this point of the coast retreats nearly half a mile at
+ebb-tide, so that an ample space of nearly twenty miles, on a bed of
+hard sand, is left for the enjoyment of pedestrian, horse, and carriage
+exercise. These, indeed, are the principal out-door resources during the
+fine season, and, with the additional luxury of a salubrious and bracing
+atmosphere, produce a highly invigorating effect upon the constitution
+of invalids,--particularly dyspeptics, who derive great and almost
+uniform benefit from this new and salutary mode of life. The air of
+Blackpool is proverbial for its salubrious quality; the best evidence of
+which is afforded by the patriarchal age of many of its inhabitants.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: LYTHAM]
+
+
+
+
+LYTHAM.
+
+
+    "All places that the eye of Heaven visits
+    Are to the wise man ports and happy havens."
+
+        SHAKESPEARE.
+
+Lytham is another of those delightful watering-places to which, in our
+brief survey of the Lancashire coast, we have so often had occasion to
+refer. There is not a bay, indeed, along the whole line of sand which
+forms our ocean frontier on the west, but offers some pleasing summer
+retreat, where the invalid may repair his constitution, and return with
+renovated strength to the active duties of life.
+
+Lytham is about twelve miles west from Preston, and offers every
+accommodation to visitors which is either usual or desirable in
+sea-bathing quarters. The town is cheerful, well-built, containing about
+fifteen hundred inhabitants, and is a place of considerable antiquity.
+It was here, that in the reign of Richard the First, Baron Fitz-Roger
+founded, in honour of the Virgin Mary and St. Cuthbert, a cell of
+Benedictine monks; the annual revenues of which, at the dissolution of
+religious houses, amounted to fifty-four pounds--equal in the present
+day to at least three hundred and twenty pounds. The site of this
+ancient cell was shortly after granted by Parliament to Sir Thomas
+Holcroft. Lytham Hall, the seat of John Clifton, Esq., is an object of
+considerable interest in the neighbourhood, and familiar to all who have
+ever listened to the "Lass of Lytham Hall."[17]
+
+The country around Lytham abounds in fine drives; and, independently of
+the minor points, which cannot fail to engage the attention of visitors,
+the ancient town of Preston will offer a full day's entertainment to all
+who are curious in historical sites. The lordship of Preston was granted
+by Richard the First to Theobald Walter, seneschal of Ireland, ancestor
+of the dukes of Ormond, and sheriff of Lancashire; and by Edward the
+Third it was constituted the chief seat of the duchy and palatinate
+courts. King James the First honoured it with a visit in his progress to
+Scotland, in 1617; and on Ribbleton Moor, on the east side of the town,
+the Scottish forces, under the Duke of Hamilton, sustained a serious
+defeat in 1648--the last operation of the civil war in this country. In
+1715 the Chevalier de St. George was proclaimed at the Market-cross, by
+the title of James the Third; and in 1745 the troops, under Prince
+Charles Edward, marched through the town to the Jacobin air of "The king
+shall have his sin again." This lively tune, however, as the reader
+knows, was changed into a melancholy dirge on his return through
+Preston--only a fortnight afterwards. The celebrated Preston Guild,
+which is held once in twenty years, is considered to be one of the most
+splendid provincial festivals in England. The institution of this
+ancient and unique pageant is five centuries old, the first having taken
+place in the reign of Edward III. It commences on the Monday after the
+day set apart by the Church in commemoration of the beheading of St.
+John the Baptist (the 29th August), and continues about a fortnight. By
+the charter which renders the celebration necessary twenty-eight days
+are allowed to all who are disposed to renew their freedom. On the first
+day the different trades muster in number, form processions, and attend
+the mayor and corporation to church; the following day the ladies of
+Preston, with the mayoress, are escorted in the like manner, and various
+festivities are encouraged during the time. On Wednesday the races
+commence; the race ground is about two miles distant, on Falwood Moor,
+anciently a part of the royal forest of the same name. Preston Guild was
+celebrated three times during the reign of George III., an event that
+never occurred in the reign of any other king of England.
+
+[17]
+
+    "I've climb'd the Alps,--I've cross'd the seas,
+      And travers'd many a land,
+    Where summer smiles on spicy isles,
+      And coral decks the strand:
+    But the fairest spot that Earth can boast,
+      Is here, by the blue sea-wall,
+    And the fairest maid on her native coast
+      Is the Lass of Lytham Hall," &c. &c.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: THE SANDS AT SOUTHPORT.]
+
+
+
+
+SOUTHPORT SANDS.
+
+LANCASHIRE.
+
+
+    There's Buxton bath for gout and spleen;
+      There's Cheltenham for wealth;
+    There's Matlock vale for Beauty's queen;
+      And SOUTHPORT SANDS for health.
+
+Southport--formerly South Hawes--is about two miles to the southward of
+North Meols, near the estuary of the Ribble, and opens upon a
+magnificent bay. Its situation among the dry sand-hills, or _meols_,
+contributes much to the salubrity of the place, and it appears to gain
+in popularity as it becomes more generally known.
+
+This popular watering-place is of modern erection, as in the year 1809
+it contained only eighty-eight houses, but it no sooner obtained the
+patronage of the wealthy and active merchants of Lancashire, than it
+sprung up with rapid strides, and those numerous appliances of luxury
+which its patrons know so well how to appreciate were produced in
+abundance, while the low, barren sand-hills of this part of the coast
+were soon covered with spacious hotels, boarding-houses, baths, and all
+the essentials of a fashionable sea-bathing town. There is no doubt but
+that at some period the sea must have covered much of what is now dry
+land, as in the churchyard of North Meols, sea shells, in considerable
+numbers, are frequently found when the ground is opened for graves, to
+the depth of five or six feet.
+
+In the vicinity of Southport, and forming part of the same parish, is
+Martin (or more properly Merton) Meer, once an extensive morass. In
+Leland's time, it was four miles long and two broad, and emptied itself
+into the sea. About 1692, Mr. Fleetwood, of Bank Hall, commenced
+draining this meer by a sluice, shutting and opening with the tide, and
+died with the idea that he had completed the work. When the water was
+drained off, eight canoes were found, scooped out of the trunks of
+trees, in the same mode as they are made among the Indians of the
+Pacific at this day; one of them had plates of iron fixed upon it, and
+all were constructed probably before the Roman possession of Britain. In
+1755, the Meer was again inundated by a very high tide, owing to the
+insufficiency of the sluice-gates, and Mr. Eccleston, of Scarisbrick,
+made a second attempt to drain it, and succeeded until 1789, when a
+partial inundation from the river Douglas did some mischief, but more
+extensive injury was prevented by the action of some floodgates, which
+had been erected to guard against such accidents. In 1813, the sea-gates
+were again swept away, but the land was protected by the stop-gates as
+before. Since that time a great improvement has taken place in the Meer,
+and much of it is now good land.
+
+The practice of sea-bathing--if we may judge by the much improved
+accommodations at Southport and along the coast--appears to be on the
+increase. There are many, indeed, who a few years ago would hardly have
+been persuaded to dip their fingers in salt-water; but, having once
+become converts to that salutary habit, they would now suffer many
+privations rather than forego their annual visits to the cheerful
+"sands" and sea-breezes of their native coast. After an indulgence of
+this nature, the man of business returns fresh-braced to his
+counting-house, the student to his books, each with renewed strength and
+resolution to perform their several duties in the great drama of active
+life. We are in hopes that those of our compatriots who have really the
+means of such enjoyment at their command, will at length do justice to
+the beauty of their own shores. The millions that are squandered in
+perambulating foreign lands, under the specious pretext of recovering
+health, or in pursuit of amusement, if spent in England would secure for
+their owners at least something like an equivalent for their money, and
+testify in their own persons and in everything around them, not only
+proofs of good judgment, but praise for their patriotism. This mania,
+which for so many years has deprived our native watering-places of their
+legitimate revenue, is certainly on the decline; and we speak from much
+experience in foreign travel, when we state that, to a well regulated
+mind, England alone presents, in the greatest proportion, the true
+requisites for health and rational enjoyment. In no other country of the
+world is the word "comfort" so well understood; and in no other
+climate--"damp and dripping" as it has been pronounced by certain morbid
+peripatetics--can we promise ourselves so much out-door luxury and
+enjoyment as at "home." But to him who still entertains a doubt on this
+point, and prefers, with Lucullus, to change his quarters, we recommend
+Southport by way of experiment, and have no doubt that he will soon make
+a voluntary surrender of his prejudices.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Ports, Harbours, Watering-places
+and Picturesque Scenery of Great Britain Vol. 1, by William Finden
+
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