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+Project Gutenberg's The Evolution of Fashion, by Florence Mary Gardiner
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
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+Title: The Evolution of Fashion
+
+Author: Florence Mary Gardiner
+
+Release Date: January 4, 2011 [EBook #34845]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Meredith Bach and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
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+
+
+
+  The Evolution of Fashion
+
+  BY
+  FLORENCE MARY GARDINER
+
+  _Author of "Furnishings and Fittings for Every Home," "About Gipsies,"
+  &c. &c._
+
+  [Illustration: SIR ROBERT BRUCE COTTON.]
+
+  London:
+
+  THE COTTON PRESS, GRANVILLE HOUSE, ARUNDEL STREET, W.C.
+
+
+
+
+  TO
+
+  FRANCES EVELYN,
+
+  COUNTESS OF WARWICK,
+
+  WHOSE ENTHUSIASTIC AND KINDLY INTEREST IN ALL MOVEMENTS
+
+  CALCULATED TO BENEFIT WOMEN IS UNSURPASSED,
+
+  THIS VOLUME,
+
+  BY SPECIAL PERMISSION, IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED,
+
+  BY
+
+  THE AUTHOR.
+
+  IN THE YEAR OF
+
+  HER MAJESTY QUEEN VICTORIA'S DIAMOND JUBILEE,
+
+  1897.
+
+[Illustration: _Millicent, Duchess of Sutherland._ _Princess Henry of
+Pless._ _The Countess of Warwick._ _Lady Marjorie Greville._ _Lady Eva
+Dugdale._
+
+THE WARWICK BALL.]
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+In compiling this volume on Costume (portions of which originally
+appeared in the _Ludgate Illustrated Magazine_, under the editorship of
+Mr. A. J. Bowden), I desire to acknowledge the valuable assistance I
+have received from sources not usually available to the public; also my
+indebtedness to the following authors, from whose works I have
+quoted:--Mr. Beck, Mr. R. Davey, Mr. E. Rimmel, Mr. Knight, and the late
+Mr. J. R. Planche. I also take this opportunity of thanking Messrs.
+Liberty and Co., Messrs. Jay, Messrs. E. R. Garrould, Messrs. Walery,
+Mr. Box, and others, who have offered me special facilities for
+consulting drawings, engravings, &c., in their possession, many of which
+they have courteously allowed me to reproduce, by the aid of Miss Juliet
+Hensman, and other artists.
+
+The book lays no claim to being a technical treatise on a subject which
+is practically inexhaustible, but has been written with the intention of
+bringing before the general public in a popular manner circumstances
+which have influenced in a marked degree the wearing apparel of the
+British Nation.
+
+  FLORENCE MARY GARDINER.
+
+  _West Kensington, 1897._
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+  CHAPTER.                                                          PAGE.
+
+  I. THE DRESS, B.C. 594--A.D. 1897                                    3
+
+  II. CURIOUS HEADGEAR                                                15
+
+  III. GLOVES                                                         25
+
+  IV. CURIOUS FOOTGEAR                                                31
+
+  V. BRIDAL COSTUME                                                   39
+
+  VI. MOURNING                                                        51
+
+  VII. ECCENTRICITIES OF MASCULINE COSTUME                            61
+
+  VIII. A CHAT ABOUT CHILDREN AND THEIR CLOTHING                      71
+
+  IX. FANCY COSTUME OF VARIOUS PERIODS                                79
+
+  X. STAGE AND FLORAL COSTUME                                         89
+
+
+
+
+THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+THE DRESS, B.C. 594--A.D. 1897.
+
+  "Fashions that are now called new
+  Have been worn by more than you;
+  Elder times have used the same,
+  Though these new ones get the name."
+
+  _Middleton's "Mayor of Quinborough."_
+
+
+A hard fate has condemned human beings to enter this mortal sphere
+without any natural covering, like that possessed by the lower animals
+to protect them from the extremes of heat and cold. Had this been
+otherwise, countless myriads, for untold ages, would have escaped the
+tyrannical sway of the goddess Fashion, and the French proverb, _il faut
+souffrir pour etre belle_, need never have been written.
+
+[Illustration: EARLY EGYPTIAN.]
+
+The costume of our progenitors was chiefly remarkable for its extreme
+simplicity; and, as far as we can gather, no difference in design was
+made between the sexes. A few leaves entwined by the stalks, the
+feathers of birds, the bark of trees, or roughly-dressed skins of
+animals were probably regarded by _beaux_ and _belles_ of the Adamite
+period as beautiful and appropriate adornments for the body, and were
+followed by garments made from plaited grass, which was doubtless the
+origin of weaving, a process which is nothing more than the mechanical
+plaiting of hair, wool, flax, &c. In many remote districts these
+primitive fashions still prevail, as, for example, in Madras, where, at
+an annual religious ceremony, it is customary for the low caste natives
+to exchange for a short period their usual attire for an apron of
+leaves. In the Brazilian forests the _lecythis_, or "shirt tree," is to
+be found, from which the people roll off the bark in short lengths, and,
+after making it pliable in water, cut two slits for the arm-holes and
+one for the neck, when their dress is complete and ready for use. The
+North American Indian employs feathers for purposes of the toilet, and
+many African tribes are noted for their deftly-woven fabrics composed of
+grass and other vegetable fibres, while furs and skins are essential
+articles of dress in Northern latitudes. Perhaps the earliest specimen
+of a modiste's bill in existence has recently been found on a chalk
+tablet at Nippur, in Chaldea. The hieroglyphics record ninety-two robes
+and tunics: fourteen of these were perfumed with myrrh, aloes and
+cassia. The date of this curious antique cannot be less than two
+thousand eight hundred years before the Christian era. In ancient times
+it must be remembered that the principal seats of civilisation were
+Assyria and Egypt, and upon these countries Western nations depended for
+many of the luxuries of life. The Jews derived their fine fabrics from
+the latter place, which was particularly noted for its linen
+manufactures and for magnificent embroideries, of which the accompanying
+illustration will give some idea. Medes and Babylonians, of the highest
+class, partially arrayed themselves in silk, which cost its weight in
+gold, and about the time of Ezekiel (B.C. 594) it is known to have been
+used in the dress of the Persians. It is a remarkable circumstance that
+this animal product was brought to the West manufactured in cloth, which
+was only half silk; and it is said the plan was devised of unravelling
+the stuff, which was rewoven into cloth of entire silk. Owing to its
+high price, the Romans forbade its being used for the entire dress by
+men, complete robes of silk being reserved for women. It is numbered
+among the extravagant luxuries of Heliogabalus that he was the first man
+who wore a silken garment, and the anecdote is well known of the Emperor
+Aurelian, who refused, on the ground of its extravagant cost, a silk
+dress which his consort earnestly desired to possess.
+
+Monuments still in existence show that the Egyptians, owing to the
+warmth of their climate, were partial to garments of a semi-transparent
+character, while those living on the banks of the Tigris, who were
+subjected to greater extremes of temperature, wore clothing of similar
+design, but of wool, with heavy fringes of the same as a trimming. In
+some cases this feature of Assyrian costume is shown in double rows, one
+pendent, while the other stands out in a horizontal direction.
+
+[Illustration: GREEK.]
+
+The early Greek dress, or chiton, was a very simple contrivance,
+reaching to the feet. If ungirdled, it would trail on the ground; but
+generally it was drawn through the zone or waistbelt in such a manner
+that it was double to the extent of about thirty inches over the vital
+organs of the body. The great distinction between male and female dress
+consisted in the length of the skirt. The trimmings were of embroidery,
+woven diapers, figure bands with chariots and horses; and, in some
+cases, glass ornaments and thin metal plates were applied. Among the
+working classes the chiton was, of course, homespun, or of leather.
+
+[Illustration: ROMAN.]
+
+The stola was the Roman equivalent for the nineteenth century robe or
+gown, and in many respects resembled the Greek chiton. The fabrics
+employed were wool and linen up to the end of the Republic, though at a
+later date, as has already been stated, silk was imported. Colour, under
+the Emperors, was largely used, and at least thirteen shades of the dye
+obtained from the murex, which passed under the general name of purple,
+could be seen in the costume of both sexes.
+
+When the Roman Empire was dismembered (A.D. 395) a style of dress seems
+to have flourished in the important towns of the Mediterranean, which
+was similar to that worn in mediaeval times in Britain, and which may be
+examined in the specimens of statuary adorning tombs of the twelfth and
+thirteenth centuries. The semi-tight under-dress and sleeves appear to
+have been elaborately embroidered, and the loose mantle of plain
+material was edged with a border.
+
+[Illustration: BYZANTINE.]
+
+One of the earliest descriptions of the female dress in Britain is that
+of Boadicea, the Queen of the Iceni, whom we are told wore a tunic woven
+chequerwise in purple, red, and blue. Over this was a shorter garment
+open on the bosom, and leaving the arms bare. Her yellow hair flowed
+over her shoulders, upon which rested an ample cloak, secured by a
+_fibula_ (brooch). A torque, or necklet, was also worn; a pair of bronze
+breastplates as a protection from the Roman arrows, and her fingers and
+arms were covered with rings and bracelets.
+
+[Illustration: ANGLO-SAXON.]
+
+The costume of the Anglo-Saxon ladies consisted of a _sherte_, or
+_camise_, of linen next the skin, a kirtle, which resembled the modern
+petticoat, and a gunna, or gown, with sleeves. Out of doors a mantle
+covered the upper portion of the body, and with the coverchief, or head
+rail, formed a characteristic feature of the dress of the day. Cloth,
+silk, and linen were the favourite materials for clothing, and red,
+blue, yellow, and green the fashionable colours. Very little black and
+white were used at this period. Saxon women were renowned for their
+skill with the needle, and used large quantities of gold thread and
+jewels in their work. Among other instances quoted, Queen Editha
+embroidered the coronation mantle of her husband, Edward the Confessor.
+
+For some years after the Norman Conquest, women retained the costume of
+the Anglo-Saxon period, with certain additions and modifications. Fine
+coloured cloths and richest furs were used by both sexes, and sleeves
+and trains were such a length that it was found necessary to knot them,
+so that they should not trail upon the ground.
+
+The next important change was the surcoat and tight bodice, which was
+fastened in front to fit the figure.
+
+There are evident traces that as civilisation advanced the love of dress
+and the desire of the fair sex to appear beautiful in the eyes of all
+beholders increased in like proportion. From ancient MSS. and other
+sources, we have ample proof of this. St. Jerome calls women
+"_philoscomon_," that is to say, lovers of finery, and another writer
+states: "One of the most difficult points to manage with women is to
+root out their curiosity for clothes and ornaments for the body." St.
+Bernard admonished his sister with greater candour than politeness on
+her visiting him, well arraied with riche clothinge, with perles and
+precious stones: "Such pompe and pride to adorne a carion as is youre
+body. Thinke ye not of the pore people, that be deyen for hunger and
+colde; and that for the sixth parte of youre gay arraye, forty persons
+might be clothed, refreshed, and kepte from the colde?"
+
+The increased facilities for travelling offered to those engaged in the
+Crusades, and the necessary intercourse with other nations, caused
+considerable quantities of foreign materials to be imported to England
+during the Middle Ages: and this had a corresponding effect upon the
+costume of the period, which was chiefly remarkable for its richness and
+eccentricity of form. Among the materials in use may be mentioned diaper
+cloth from Ypres, a town in Flanders, famous for its rich dress stuffs;
+tartan, called by the French "tyretaine," meaning _teint_, or colour of
+Tyre (scarlet being indifferently used for purple by ancient writers,
+and including all the gradations of colour formed by a mixture of blue
+and red, from indigo to crimson). There was a fine white woollen cloth
+called Blanket, named after its inventor, Sarcenet, also from its
+Saracenic origin, and gauze which was made at Gaza in Palestine. Ermine
+was strictly confined to the use of the Royal Family and nobles, and
+cloth of gold, and habits embroidered with jewellery, or lined with
+minever or other expensive fur, could only be worn by knights and ladies
+with incomes exceeding 400 marks per annum. Those who had not more than
+200 marks were permitted to wear silver cloth, with ribands, girdles,
+&c., reasonably embellished; also woollen cloth not costing more than
+six marks the piece.
+
+[Illustration: 12TH CENTURY.]
+
+The tight forms of dress now in common use among women were an incentive
+to tight lacing, an injurious practice, from which their descendants
+suffer. A lady is described
+
+  "Clad in purple pall,
+  With gentyll body and middle small,"
+
+and another damsel, whose splendid girdle of beaten gold was embellished
+with emeralds and rubies, evidently, from the description, had a waist
+which was not the size intended by Nature.
+
+[Illustration: 14TH CENTURY.]
+
+During the Wars of the Roses both trade and costume made little
+progress, and after the union of the Houses of York and Lancaster by the
+marriage of Henry VII. with his Queen, Elizabeth, their attention was
+chiefly concerned in filling their impoverished coffers, which left them
+little opportunity for promoting new fashions in dress. Henry VIII.
+afforded ample facilities for the revival of the trade in dress goods,
+and there is little difficulty in tracing female costume of the
+sixteenth century when we remember that in the course of thirty-eight
+years he married six wives, besides having them painted times without
+number by all the popular artists of the day.
+
+[Illustration: 16TH CENTURY. _From Portrait of Mary Queen of Scots._]
+
+J. R. Planche in his "History of British Costume," says: "The gowns of
+the nobility were magnificent, and at this period were open in front to
+the waist, showing the kirtle, or inner garment, as what we should call
+the petticoat was then termed." Anne of Cleves, who found so little
+favour in Henry's eyes, is said to have worn at their first interview "a
+rich gowne of cloth of gold made round, without any train, after the
+Dutch fashion;" and in a wardrobe account of the eighth year of this
+Bluebeard's reign appears the following item: "Seven yards of purple
+cloth of damask gold for a kirtle for Queen Catherine of Arragon." The
+dress of Catherine Parr is thus described by Pedro de Gante, secretary
+to the Spanish Duke de Najera, who visited Henry VIII. in 1543-1544:
+"She was robed in cloth of gold, with a 'saya' (petticoat) of brocade,
+the sleeves lined with crimson satin and trimmed with three-piled
+crimson velvet. Her train was more than two yards long." Articles of
+dress were often bequeathed by will. In one made on the 14th of August,
+1540, William Cherington, yeoman, of Waterbeche, leaves "To my mother
+_my holyday gowne_." Nicholas, Dyer of Feversham, 29th October, 1540,
+"To my sister, Alice Bichendyke, thirteen shillings and ninepence _which
+she owed me_, and two kerchiefs of holland." John Holder, rector of
+Gamlingay, in 1544 leaves to Jane Greene "my clothe frock lined with
+satin cypress." These entries are from wills in the Ely Registry.
+
+[Illustration: 17TH CENTURY.]
+
+A peculiar feature in the costume of both sexes was sleeves distinct
+from the gown, but attached (so as to be changed at pleasure) to the
+waistcoat. Among the inventories we find three pairs of purple satin
+sleeves for women, one pair of linen sleeves paned with gold over the
+arm, quilted with black silk and wrought with flowers; one pair of
+sleeves of purple gold tissue damask wire, each one tied with aglets of
+gold; one pair of crimson satin sleeves, four buttons of gold being set
+on each, and in every button nine pearls.
+
+We are all familiar with the distended skirts, jewelled stomachers and
+enormous ruffs which adorned the virgin form of Good Queen Bess. In the
+middle of her reign the body was imprisoned in whalebone, and the
+fardingale, the prototype of the modern hoop, was introduced, as it was
+not to be supposed that a lady who is said to have left three thousand
+dresses in her wardrobe would remain faithful to the fashions of her
+grandmother; and Elizabeth's love of dress permeated all classes of
+society.
+
+The portrait of Mary Queen of Scots, who was considered an authority on
+matters of the toilet, and whose taste for elegance of apparel had been
+cultivated to a high degree during her residence at the French Court is
+given. There is a subtlety and charm about it which is wanting in the
+costume of her cousin Elizabeth, and it may be considered a fair type of
+what was worn by a gentlewoman of that period. The full skirt appears to
+fall in easy folds, and the basqued bodice, with tight sleeves, is
+closely moulded to the figure and surmounted by an
+elaborately-constructed ruff of muslin and lace.
+
+[Illustration: 19TH CENTURY. BALL DRESS, 1809.]
+
+To the great regret of antiquarians, the wardrobes of our ancient kings,
+formerly kept at the Tower, were by the order of James I. distributed.
+At no period was the costume of Britain more picturesque than in the
+middle of the seventeenth century, and we naturally turn to its great
+delineators Velasquez, Van Dyck, Rembrandt, and Rubens, who delighted in
+giving us such fine examples of their work. Women had grown tired of the
+unwieldy fardingale, and changed it for graceful gowns with flowing
+skirts and low bodices, finished with deep vandyked collars of lace or
+embroidery.
+
+A studied negligence, an elegant _deshabille_ prevailed in the Stuart
+Court, particularly after the Restoration. Charles II.'s bevy of
+beauties are similarly attired, and the pictures in Hampton Court show
+us women whose snowy necks and arms are no longer veiled, and whose
+gowns of rich satin, with voluminous trains, are piled up in the
+background. Engravings and drawings which may be seen in every
+printseller's window make special illustrations of this period
+unnecessary.
+
+[Illustration: 18TH CENTURY. WALKING COSTUME.]
+
+Dutch fashions appear to have followed in the wake of William and Mary.
+Stomachers and tight sleeves were once more in favour, and fabrics of a
+rich and substantial character were employed in preference to the softer
+makes of silk, which lent itself so well to the soft flowing lines of
+the previous era.
+
+An intelligent writer has remarked "that Fashion from the time of George
+I. has been such a varying goddess that neither history, tradition, nor
+painting has been able to preserve all her mimic forms; like Proteus
+struggling in the arms of Telemachus, on the Phanaic coast, she passed
+from shape to shape with the rapidity of thought." In 1745 the hoop had
+increased at the sides and diminished in front, and a pamphlet was
+published in that year entitled "The enormous abomination of the hoop
+petticoat, as the fashion now is." Ten years later it is scarcely
+discernible in some figures, and in 1757 reappears, extending right and
+left after the manner of the court dress of the reign of George III. For
+the abolition of this monstrosity we are indebted to George IV., and
+ladies' dresses then rushed to the other extreme. Steel and whalebone
+was dispensed with, and narrow draperies displayed the form they were
+supposed to conceal, and were girdled just below the shoulders.
+
+[Illustration: 19TH CENTURY.--TEA DRESS, 1830.]
+
+These were in time followed by the bell-shaped skirts worn at the
+accession of Her Majesty Queen Victoria, during whose reign fashion has
+indeed run riot. The invention of the sewing machine was the signal for
+the appearance of frills and furbelows, and meretricious ornament of
+every kind. In the middle of the present century crinolines were again
+to the fore, skirts were proportionately wide and generally flounced to
+the top. The bodice terminated at the waist with a belt; but in some
+cases a Garibaldi, or loose bodice of different texture, was
+substituted. The next change to be noted was that hideous garment the
+"polonaise," which was a revival of, and constructed on similar lines
+to, the "super froc" of the Middle Ages. For many years English ladies,
+with a supreme disregard for the appropriate, wore this with a skirt
+belonging to an entirely different costume. But at last people got
+nauseated with these abominations, and under the gentle sway and
+influence of "Our Princess" a prettier, more useful and rational costume
+appeared. In 1876 the graceful Princess dress, which accentuated every
+good point in the figure, was generally worn; and though this costume in
+the latter part of its career was fiercely abused by the rotund matron
+and Mrs. Grundy, for clinging too closely to the lines of the human
+form, it was distinctly an advance as regards health and beauty on the
+varying styles which preceded it.
+
+[Illustration: 19TH CENTURY.--THE POLONAISE, 1872.]
+
+The aesthetic movement has also had a marked influence on our taste in
+all directions, but more especially in the costume of the last few
+years; and though the picturesque garb of the worshippers of the
+sunflower and the lily may not be adapted to the wear and tear of this
+workaday world, it is beautiful in form and design, incapable of undue
+pressure; and for children and young girls it would be difficult to
+imagine a more charming, artistic, and becoming costume.
+
+[Illustration: TAILOR-MADE DRESS, 1897.]
+
+Once more we are eschewing classical lines for grotesque which makes
+caricatures of lovely women, and drives plain ones to despair. The
+subdued and delicate tints which a few seasons since were regarded with
+favour have been superseded by garish shades and bright colours, which
+seem to quarrel with everything in Nature and Art. Unfortunately, we
+English are prone to extremes, and possess the imitative rather than the
+creative faculty. Consequently, our national costume is seldom
+distinctive, but a combination of some of the worst styles of our
+Continental neighbours, who would scorn to garb themselves with so
+little regard for fitness, beauty, and the canons of good taste.
+
+[Illustration: TEA GOWN, 1897.]
+
+[Illustration: AN ARTISTIC DRESS, 1897.
+
+_After a painting by Sir Joshua Reynolds._]
+
+[Illustration: MODERN EVENING DRESS.]
+
+Two dominant notes, however, have been struck in the harmonies of
+costume during the last twenty-five years--the tailor-made dress, which
+may almost be regarded as a national livery; and the tea gown, that
+reposeful garment to which we affectionately turn in our hours of ease.
+How well each in its way is calculated to serve the purpose for which it
+is designed, the simple cloth, tweed, or serge costume moulded to the
+lines of the figure, adapted to our changeful climate, and giving a
+_cachet_ to the wearer, not always found in much more costly apparel, a
+rational costume in the best sense of the word, and one which women of
+all ages may assume with satisfaction to themselves and to those with
+whom they come in contact. The tea gown, on the other hand, drapes the
+figure loosely so as to fall in graceful folds, and may be regarded as a
+distinct economy, as it so often takes the place of a more expensive
+dress. Beauty, which is one of Heaven's best gifts to women, is useless
+unless appropriately framed, and a well-known exponent on the art of
+dressing artistically, has laid down the axiom that harmonies of colour
+are more successful than contrasts. If we turn to Nature we have an
+unfailing source of inspiration. The foliage tints, sunset effects, the
+animal and mineral worlds all offer schemes of colour, which can be
+readily adapted to our persons and surroundings. And to look our best
+and, above all, to grow old gracefully, is a duty which every daughter
+of Eve owes to humanity. The manner in which so many women give way
+early in life is simply appalling. While still in the bloom of womanhood
+they assume the habits and dress of decrepitude, submit to be placed on
+the social shelf without a murmur, and calmly allow those slightly their
+junior, and in some cases their senior, to appropriate the good things
+of life, and to monopolise the attention of all and sundry. Mothers in
+their prime willingly allow anyone who can be persuaded to do so, to
+chaperone their daughters, and to pilot them through the social eddies
+and quicksands of their first season, and through sheer indolence fail
+to exercise the lawful authority and responsibility which maternity
+entails. The unmarried woman, conscious that she is no longer in her
+first youth, and indifferent to the charms of maturity, takes to
+knitting socks in obscure corners, and assumes an air of self-repression
+and middle-agedness which apparently takes ten years from her span of
+existence, and conveys to the casual onlooker, that she has passed the
+boundary line between youth and old age. Why should these women sink
+before their time into a slough of dowdyism and cut themselves off from
+the enjoyments civilisation has provided for their benefit?
+
+Equally to be deprecated are those who cling so desperately to youth
+that they entirely forget the later stages of life have their
+compensations. Women who in crowded ballrooms display their redundant or
+attenuated forms to the gaze of all beholders, whose coiffure owes more
+to art than nature, and who comfort themselves with the conviction that
+in a carefully shaded light rouge and pearl powder are hardly
+distinguishable from the bloom of a youthful and healthy complexion. A
+variety of circumstances combine to bring into the world a race of
+people who cannot strictly lay claim to beauty, but who nevertheless
+have many good points which might be accentuated, while those that are
+less pleasing could be concealed. A middleaged woman will respect
+herself and be more respected by others if she drapes her person in
+velvet, brocade, and other rich fabrics which fall in stately folds, and
+give her dignity, than if she persists in decking herself in muslin,
+crepon, net, and similar materials, because in the long since past they
+suited her particular style. Gossamers belong to the young, with their
+dimpled arms, shoulders of snowy whiteness, and necks like columns of
+ivory. Their eyes are brighter than jewels, and their luxuriant locks
+need no ornament save a rose nestling in its green leaves, a fit emblem
+of youth and beauty.
+
+With the education and art training at present within the grasp of all
+classes of the community there is nothing to prevent our modifying
+prevailing fashions to our own requirements; and common sense ought to
+teach us (even if we ignore every other sentiment which is supposed to
+guide reasoning creatures) that one particular style cannot be
+appropriate to women who are exact opposites to each other. If each
+person would only think out for herself raiment beautiful in form, rich
+in texture, and adapted to the daily needs of life, we should be spared
+a large number of the startling incongruities which offend the eye in
+various directions.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+CURIOUS HEADGEAR.
+
+                          "Here in her hair
+  The painter plays the spider, and hath woven
+  A golden mesh to entrap the hearts of men
+  Faster than gnats in cobwebs."
+
+  _The Merchant of Venice._
+
+
+[Illustration: ANCIENT JEWISH HEAD-DRESS.]
+
+Holy Writ simply teems with allusions to the luxurious tresses of the
+fair daughters of the East, and there is little doubt that at an early
+period in the world's history women awakened to the fact that a
+well-tired head was a very potent attraction, and had a recognised
+market value. Jewish women were particularly famed in this respect, and
+employed female barbers, who, with the aid of crisping pins, horns, and
+towers, prepared their clients for conquest. These jewelled horns were
+generally made of the precious metals, and the position denoted the
+condition of the wearer. A married woman had it fixed on the right side
+of the head, a widow on the left, and she who was still an
+unappropriated blessing on the crown. Over the horn the veil was thrown
+coquettishly, as in the illustration. Assyrian women delighted in long
+ringlets, confined by a band of metal, and the men were not above the
+weakness of plaiting gold wire with their beards. Rimmel, in "The Book
+of Perfumes," relates a curious anecdote of Mausolus, King of Caria, who
+turned his people's fondness for flowing locks to account when his
+exchequer required replenishing. "Having first had a quantity of wigs
+made and stored in the royal warehouses, he published an edict
+compelling all his subjects to have their heads shaved. A few days
+after, the monarch's agents went round, offering them the perukes
+destined to cover their denuded polls, which they were delighted to buy
+at any price". It is not surprising that Artemisia could not console
+herself for the loss of such a clever husband, and that, not satisfied
+with drinking his ashes dissolved in wine, she spent some of her
+lamented lord's ill-gotten revenue in building such a monument to his
+memory that it was counted one of the wonders of the world.
+
+[Illustration: EGYPTIAN HEAD-DRESS.]
+
+The Egyptians were also partial to wigs, some of which are still
+preserved in the British Museum. Ladies wore a multitude of small plaits
+and jewelled head-pieces resembling peacocks and other animals, which
+contrasted with their dark tresses with brilliant effect; or a fillet
+ornamented with a lotus bud. The coiffure of a princess was remarkable
+for its size and the abundance of animal, vegetable, and mineral
+treasures with which it was adorned. In Egyptian tombs and elsewhere
+have been discovered small wooden combs resembling the modern
+tooth-comb, and metal mirrors of precisely the same shape as those in
+use at the present day, as well as numerous other toilet appliances.
+
+[Illustration: ANCIENT GRECIAN.]
+
+Grecian sculpture affords us the opportunity of studying the different
+modes in favour in that country, and it is astonishing to find what a
+variety of methods were adopted by the belles of ancient Greece for
+enhancing their charms. A loose knot, fastened by a clasp in the form of
+a grasshopper, was a favourite fashion. Cauls of network, metal mitres
+of different designs, and simple bands, and sometimes chaplets, of
+flowers, all confined at different periods, the luxuriant locks of the
+Helens, Penelopes, and Xantippes of ancient times.
+
+[Illustration: ANCIENT ROMAN.]
+
+It was a common custom among heathen nations to consecrate to their gods
+the hair when cut off, as well as that growing on the head, and it was
+either consumed on the altar, deposited in temples, or hung upon the
+trees. A famous instance of the consecration of hair is that of
+Berenice, the wife of Ptolemy Evergetes. It is related that when the
+king went on his expedition to Syria, she, solicitous for his safety,
+made a vow to consecrate her hair (which was remarkable for its fineness
+and beauty) to Venus, if he returned to her. When her husband came back
+she kept her word, and offered her hair in the temple of Cyprus. This
+was afterwards missing, when a report was spread that it had been turned
+into a constellation in the heavens, which constellation, an old writer
+tells us, is called _Coma Berenices_ (the hair of Berenice) to the
+present day. Another remarkable instance is that of Nero, who, according
+to Suetonius, cut off his first beard, put it in a casket of gold set
+with jewels, and consecrated it to Jupiter Capitolinus.
+
+[Illustration: ENGLISH HEAD-DRESS OF THE 13TH CENTURY.]
+
+The hair of the head and beard appears to have been held in great
+respect by most nations, and perhaps we may trace the use of human hair
+in spells and incantations to this fact. Orientals especially treat the
+hair which falls from them with superstitious care, and bury it, so
+that no one shall use it to their prejudice.
+
+[Illustration: HORNED HEAD-DRESS OF 15TH CENTURY.
+
+_From Effigy of Countess of Arundel in Arundel Church._]
+
+Roman matrons generally preferred blonde hair to their own ebon tresses,
+and resorted to wigs and dye when Nature, as they considered, had
+treated them unkindly. Ovid rebukes a lady of his acquaintance in the
+plainest terms for having destroyed her hair.
+
+[Illustration: STEEPLE HEAD-DRESS OF 15TH CENTURY.]
+
+"Did I not tell you to leave off dyeing your hair? Now you have no hair
+left to dye: and yet nothing was handsomer than your locks: they came
+down to your knees, and were so fine that you were afraid to comb them.
+Your own hand has been the cause of the loss you deplore: you poured the
+poison on your own head. Now Germany will send you slaves' hair--a
+vanquished nation will supply your ornament. How many times, when you
+hear people praising the beauty of your hair, you will blush and say to
+yourself: 'It is bought ornament to which I owe my beauty, and I know
+not what Sicambrian virgin they are admiring in me. And yet there was a
+time when I deserved all these compliments.'"
+
+[Illustration: EARLY TUDOR HEAD-DRESS.]
+
+It would puzzle any _fin de siecle_ husband or brother to express his
+displeasure in more appropriate words than those chosen by the poet.
+
+The Britons, before they mixed with other nations, were a fair-haired
+race, and early writers referred to their washing their auburn tresses
+in water boiled with lime to increase the reddish colour. Boadicea is
+described with flowing locks which fell upon her shoulders; but after
+the Roman Invasion the hair of both men and women followed the fashion
+of the conquerors.
+
+[Illustration: HORNED HEAD-DRESS OF EDWARD IV.'s REIGN.]
+
+From Planche's "History of British Costume," we learn that "the female
+head-dress among all classes of the Anglo-Saxons was a long piece of
+linen or silk wrapped round the head and neck." It appears to have been
+called a head-rail, or wimple, but was dispensed with in the house, as
+the hair was then as cherished an ornament as at the present day. A wife
+described by Adhelm, Bishop of Sherborne, who wrote in the eighth
+century, is said to have had "twisted locks, delicately curled by the
+iron;" and in the poem of "Judith" the heroine is called "the maid of
+the Creator, with twisted locks." Two long plaits were worn by Norman
+ladies, and were probably adopted by our own countrywomen after the
+Conquest.
+
+During the Middle Ages feminine head-gear underwent many changes.
+Golden nets, and linen bands closely pinned round the hair and chin,
+were followed by steeple-shaped erections and horned head-dresses in a
+variety of shapes, of which the accompanying sketches will give a better
+idea than any written description.
+
+During the sixteenth century matrons adopted either a pointed hood,
+composed of velvet or other rich fabric, often edged with fur, a
+close-fitting coif, or the French cap to be seen in the portraits of the
+unhappy Mary Stuart. Those who were unmarried had their hair simply
+braided and embellished with knots of ribbon, strings of pearls, or
+Nature's most beautiful adornment for the maiden--sweet-scented flowers.
+
+[Illustration: ELIZABETHAN HEAD-DRESS.]
+
+The auburn tresses of Her Gracious Majesty Queen Elizabeth, were always
+_bien coiffee_, if we may judge from her various portraits. She scorned
+the hoods, lace caps, and pointed coifs, worn by her contemporaries, and
+adopted a miniature crown or jaunty hat of velvet, elaborately jewelled.
+Her fair complexion and light hair were thrown into relief by ruffles of
+lace, and this delicate fabric was stretched over fine wire frames,
+which met at the back, and remotely suggested the fragile wings of the
+butterfly, or the nimbus of a saint, neither of which ornaments was
+particularly appropriate to the lady in question. The front hair was
+turned over a cushion, or dressed in stiff sausage-like curls, pinned
+close to the head, and was adorned with strings and stars of flashing
+gems and a pendant resting on the forehead.
+
+[Illustration: A BEAUTY OF THE COURT OF CHARLES II.]
+
+That splendid historian, Stubbs, who has left us such minute particulars
+of the fashions of his time, quaintly describes the coiffure of the
+ladies of the Court. He states: "It must be curled, frizzled, crisped,
+laid out in wreaths and borders from one ear to the other, and lest it
+should fall down, must be underpropped with forkes and weirs, and
+ornamented with gold or silver curiously wrought. Such gewgaws, which
+being unskilful in woman's tearms, I cannot easily recount. Then upon
+the toppes of their stately turrets, stand their other capital
+ornaments: a French hood, hatte, cappe, kircher and suchlike, whereof
+some be of velvet, some of this fashion and some of that. Cauls made of
+netwire, that the cloth of gold, silver, or tinsel, with which their
+hair was sometimes covered, might be seen through; and lattice caps with
+three horns or corners, like the forked caps of popish priests." The
+Harleian MSS., No. 1776, written in the middle of Elizabeth's reign,
+refers to an ordinance for the reformation of gentlewomen's head-dress,
+and says: "None shall wear an ermine or lattice bonnet unless she be a
+gentlewoman born, having Arms." This latter phrase, we may conclude,
+refers to armorial bearings, not to physical development.
+
+The wearing of false hair and periwigs was left to the sterner sex for
+some years after the restoration of the House of Stuart, and women were
+satisfied with well-brushed ringlets escaping from a bandeau of pearls,
+or beautified by a single flower. The hair was often arranged in small,
+flat curls on the forehead, as in the sketch of a Beauty of the Court of
+Charles II.; and this fashion had a softening effect on the face, and
+was known as the "Sevigne style."
+
+[Illustration: END OF 17TH CENTURY.]
+
+Dutch fashions naturally prevailed in the Court of William and Mary, and
+this queen is represented with a high muslin cap, adorned with a series
+of upright frills, edged with lace, and long lappets falling on the
+shoulders. Farquhar, in his comedy "Love and the Bottle," alludes to the
+"high top-knots," and Swift, to the "pinners edged with colberteen," as
+the lace streamers were called. About this period the hair was once
+again rolled back from the face, and assumed enormous dimensions, so
+much so, that in some cases it was found necessary to make doorways
+broader and higher than they had hitherto been, to allow
+fashionably-dressed ladies to pass through without displacing the
+elaborate erections they carried. Stuffed with horsehair, clotted with
+pomade and powder, and decked with every conceivable ornament, from a
+miniature man-of-war in full sail, to a cooing dove with outspread
+wings, presumably sitting on its nest, or a basket of flowers wreathed
+with ribbons. Naturally, the aid of the barber was called in, as ladies
+were incapable of constructing and manipulating such a mass of tangled
+locks. We may imagine, on the score of expense and for other reasons,
+the hair was not dressed so frequently as cleanliness demanded, for in a
+book on costume a hairdresser is described as asking one of his
+customers how long it was since her hair had been opened and repaired.
+On her replying, "Nine weeks," he mildly suggested that that was as long
+as a head could well go in summer, "and, therefore, it was proper to
+deliver it now, as it began to be a little _hazarde_." Various anecdotes
+of this nature make us feel that personal hygiene was a matter of
+secondary importance to our ancestors.
+
+Planche, in his work on British Costume, informs us that powder
+maintained its ground till 1793, when it was discarded by Her Majesty
+Queen Charlotte, Consort of George III., and the Princesses.
+
+[Illustration: FASHIONABLE COIFFURE OF AN ELDERLY LADY IN THE 18TH
+CENTURY.]
+
+[Illustration: FASHIONABLE HEAD-DRESSES IN THE TIMES OF THE GEORGES.]
+
+Varied, indeed, have been the fashions of the 19th century, the close of
+which is fast approaching. Only a few of the styles adopted can be
+briefly touched upon, and, naturally, those will be selected which form
+the greatest contrast to each other. The belle of 1830 was distinguished
+by upstanding bows of plain or plaited hair, arranged on the crown of
+the head, and the front was generally in bands or short ringlets, held
+in place by tortoise-shell side-combs. The simplicity of this coiffure
+was compensated for by the enormous size of the hats and bonnets
+generally worn with it. These had wide and curiously-shaped brims, over
+which was stretched or gathered silk, satin, aerophane, or similar
+materials. Garlands and bunches of flowers and feathers were used in
+profusion, and bows and strings of gauze ribbon floated in the wind. In
+this bewitching costume were our grandmothers wooed and won by suitors
+who evidently, from the impassioned love letters still in existence,
+believed them to be perfect types of loveliness.
+
+Towards the middle of Queen Victoria's reign, the hair was dressed in a
+simple knot, and the front arranged in ringlets, which fell gracefully
+on the chest and shoulders. Even youthful married ladies, in the privacy
+of their homes and for morning dress, were expected, by one of those
+potent but unwritten laws of the fickle goddess Fashion, to wear muslin
+or net caps, with lace borders, embellished with ribbons.
+
+[Illustration: 1830.]
+
+[Illustration: 1855.]
+
+[Illustration: BIRD'S-NEST CHIGNON, 1872.]
+
+[Illustration: PRESENT DAY, 1894.]
+
+The labours of Hercules would be mere child's play compared to giving a
+faithful record of the chameleon-like changes which have affected that
+kaleidoscope, public taste, during the last forty years, and a very
+limited study of this fascinating subject at once convinces us that,
+whatever peculiarities may appear, they are certain to be revivals or
+modifications of styles favoured by our more or less remote ancestors.
+
+In 1872 loomed upon us that ghastly horror the chignon, which bore a
+faint resemblance to the exaggerated coiffures of the 18th century. Upon
+this monstrous edifice, with its seductive Alexandra curl, were tilted
+bonnets so minute that they were almost invisible in the mountains of
+hair that surrounded them. These were replaced by hats _a la Chinois_,
+like shallow plates; while for winter wear, others of fur or feathers
+were introduced, with an animal's head fixed firmly on the brow of the
+wearer, and resembling nothing so much as the fox foot-warmer, with
+which ladies now keep their pedal extremities at a proper temperature
+when enjoying an airing. Besides these, there were pinched canoes turned
+keel uppermost, and flexible mushrooms, which flapped and caught the
+wind till it was necessary to attach a string to the edge, to keep them
+snug and taut; such hats as Leech has immortalised in his sketches.
+Turbans and facsimiles of the delicious but indigestible pork-pie,
+Gainsborough, Rousby, and Langtry hats, all named after styles worn by
+their respective namesakes; and hats made of straw, leghorn, crinoline,
+lace, satin, and of silver and gold tissue, of every shape and size that
+fancy could devise, or the heart of the most exacting woman of fashion
+could desire. The hair beneath was dressed like the frizzy mop
+illustrated, in plaited wedges flowing like a pendant hump half-way down
+the back, or in a cascade of curls reaching from the crown of the head
+to the waist. These were followed by gigantic rolls at the back of the
+skull, Grecian knots, varying from the dimensions of a door handle to
+those of a cottage loaf, and latterly by that hideous monstrosity, the
+"bun." Another turn of the wheel of fashion has given us a simple mode
+of dressing the hair, which is well adapted to the average English head,
+and which is fully explained by the accompanying sketch. It may be taken
+as a safe rule, when the forehead is low and face small, that the hair
+may be drawn back with advantage, but a long face is generally improved
+by arranging the hair in soft curls on the forehead, and by waving it
+slightly at the sides, which adds to the apparent width of the
+countenance. But whatever style is in fashion, it is sure to have its
+admirers, for has not Pope left on record:
+
+  "Fair tresses man's imperial race ensnare,
+  And beauty draws us by a single hair."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+GLOVES.
+
+  "Gloves as sweet as damask roses."--_Shakespeare._
+
+  "See how she leans her cheek upon her hand.
+  O, that I were a glove upon that hand,
+  That I might touch that cheek."
+
+  --_Romeo and Juliet._
+
+
+The glove as an article of dress is of great antiquity, and among the
+fossils of the cave-dwellers of pre-historic times, which have been
+recently discovered in France, Belgium, and Switzerland, there is ample
+proof of its existence. Probably the first gloves were formed of skins,
+sewn with bone needles, and were long enough to reach above the elbow.
+
+[Illustration: GLOVE OF HENRY VI]
+
+Xenophon, speaking of the Persians, gives as an instance of their
+effeminacy "that they not only covered their head and feet, but guarded
+their hands from cold by thick gloves." Homer, describing Laertes at
+work in his garden, represents him with gloves on his hands to protect
+them from thorns. Pliny the younger, in speaking of his uncle's visit to
+Vesuvius, states that his secretary sat by ready to write down anything
+that was remarkable, and had gloves on his hands that the coldness of
+the weather need not impede his work. Varro, an ancient writer
+says:--"Olives gathered with the naked hand are preferable to those
+plucked in gloves;" and Atheneus speaks of a glutton who wore gloves at
+table so that he might handle the meat while hot and devour more than
+the others present.
+
+That the Anglo-Saxons wore gloves we gather from their being mentioned
+in an old romance of the seventh century known as the "Poem of Beowulf,"
+and according to the laws of Ethelred the Unready, five pairs of gloves
+formed part of the duty paid to that Prince by certain German merchants.
+In Planche's "History of British Costume," an Anglo-Saxon lady appears
+to be wearing a glove with a separate division for the thumb but without
+fingers, and exactly resembling an infant's glove of the present day. In
+1462 Edward IV. forbade the importation of foreign gloves to England, a
+law which remained in force till 1826.
+
+[Illustration: HAWKING-GLOVE OF HENRY VIII.]
+
+In the early Christian Church gloves played an important part. In A.D.
+790 Charlemagne granted an unlimited right of hunting to the Abbot and
+monks of Sithin, so that the skins of the deer they killed could be used
+in the manufacture of gloves, girdles, and covers of books. In some
+cases it was commanded that the clergy should wear gloves in
+administering the Sacrament, and a writer in the "Antiquary"
+states:--"It was always looked upon as decorous for the laity to take
+off their gloves in church where ecclesiastics alone might wear them. It
+was perhaps regarded as a proof of clean hands, for to this day persons
+sworn in our law courts are compelled to remove their gloves." In the
+ancient Consecration Service for the Bishops of the Church, a blessing
+was invoked on the gloves they wore. Those of William of Wykeham
+preserved at New College, Oxford, are adorned with the sacred monogram
+in red silk, and ecclesiastical gloves were often lavishly decorated
+with embroidery and jewels, and were bequeathed by will with other
+valuables.
+
+[Illustration: GLOVE OF MARY QUEEN OF SCOTS]
+
+Formerly judges were forbidden to wear gloves when engaged in their
+official duties, but are no longer bound by this restriction, and
+receive as a memorial of a maiden assize (that is, when there are no
+prisoners to be tried) a pair of white kid gloves from the sheriff, and
+during the time fairs were held their duration was marked by hanging a
+glove outside the town hall. As long as it remained there all persons in
+the place were exempt from arrest, but directly it was removed it was
+the signal for closing the fair, and the privilege was at an end.
+
+Throwing down a glove was regarded as a challenge to combat, and this
+curious old custom is still retained in the English coronation ceremony.
+Kings were also invested with authority by the delivery of a glove. As
+_un gage d'amour_ it has for centuries been esteemed, and in the days of
+chivalry it was usual for knights to wear their ladies' gloves in their
+helmets, as a talisman of success in arms. In old records we also meet
+with the term "glove money," a sum paid to servants with which they were
+to provide this portion of their livery, and till quite recently it was
+the custom to present those who attended weddings and funerals with
+gloves as a souvenir.
+
+Shakespeare often mentions gloves, and some assert that he was the son
+of a glover. A pair which belonged to the dramatist is still preserved.
+They are of brown leather, ornamented with a stamped pattern, and are
+edged with gold fringe. They were presented by the actor Garrick to the
+Mayor and Corporation of Stratford-on-Avon at the Shakespearian
+commemoration in 1789.
+
+[Illustration: GLOVE OF QUEEN ELIZABETH.]
+
+Many royal gloves have found a place in private collections. Henry VI.'s
+glove has a gauntlet, is made of tanned leather, and is lined with
+deer-skin, and the hawking glove of Henry VIII. is another interesting
+relic of a bygone age. The King kept his hawks at Charing Cross, and in
+the inventories taken after this monarch's death we read of "three payre
+of hawkes' gloves, with two lined with velvet;" and again at Hampton
+Court there were "seven hawkes' gloves embroidered." The hawking glove,
+of which an illustration is given, may be seen in the Ashmolean Museum.
+It is of a simple character, evidently intended for use rather than
+ornament.
+
+Gloves were not generally worn by women till after the Reformation; but
+during the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries their use gradually
+extended to the middle classes. Queen Elizabeth's glove may be seen at
+the Bodleian Library, Oxford, and is believed to have been worn at the
+visit of the Virgin Queen to the University in 1566. It is fringed with
+gold, and is nearly half a yard in length; it is made of white leather
+worked with gold thread, and the cuff is lined with drab silk. Mary
+Queen of Scots' glove in the Saffron Walden Museum is of light buff
+leather, wrought with silver wire and silk of different colours. It is
+lined with crimson satin, edged with gold lace enriched with sequins,
+and the opening is connected with bands of satin finished with lace
+insertion. This glove was presented on the morning of her execution to a
+member of the Dayrell family, who was in attendance at Fotheringay
+Castle. In happier days Queen Mary gave an exquisitely embroidered pair
+of gloves, with a design in which angels' heads and flowers appear--her
+own work--to her husband, Lord Darnley; and the gloves generally of the
+Tudor period were more ornate than those which adorn beauty's hands on
+the eve of the nineteenth century, and were, in most cases, wrought with
+the needle.
+
+Though the history of gloves savours of romance, there is every reason
+to believe that they have sometimes been used with sinister motives, as
+a large trade was done at one time in poisoned gloves, delicately
+perfumed, to conceal their deadly purpose.
+
+[Illustration: GLOVE OF JAMES I.]
+
+Some gloves which were the property of James I. are of brown leather
+lined with white, and the seams are sewn with silk and gold thread. The
+embroidery is in gold and silver thread on crimson satin, with a lining
+of red silk. They are finished with gold fringe, and have three loops at
+the side. A glove of chaste design, worn by Charles I. on the scaffold
+is made of cream-coloured kid, the gauntlet embroidered with silver and
+edged with silver fringe. Queen Anne, on the other hand, wore
+highly-decorated gloves of Suede kid, with raised silken flowers on the
+gauntlet, and three loops of rose-coloured ribbon, to allow them to be
+slipped over the hands. They are further enriched with gold lace and
+embroidery. A yellow Suede Court glove of George IV. gives the
+impression that the first gentleman of Europe had a fist of tremendous
+proportions. Her Majesty Queen Victoria generally wears black kid
+gloves, except for Court functions, when white glace kid gloves are
+invariably used.
+
+Her Royal Highness the Princess of Wales has a delicately-formed hand
+with tapering fingers, and her size is six and a-half. Her Royal
+Highness adapts her gloves to the occasion and toilette, and is always
+_bien gante_.
+
+The first Napoleon gave an impetus to this branch of industry by
+insisting on gentlemen wearing gloves on State occasions and at festive
+gatherings, and the fashion spread through the countries of Europe with
+astonishing rapidity.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+CURIOUS FOOT-GEAR.
+
+  "A tasteful slipper is my soul's delight."
+
+  --_Milman's "Fazio."_
+
+
+A well-shaped foot has been considered from the earliest times one of
+Nature's kindest gifts, and sober history and fairy lore have combined
+to give us many interesting particulars respecting this portion of the
+human anatomy. The similarity of the foot-gear of both sexes makes it
+impossible to treat the matter separately, and as the subject is
+practically inexhaustible, I propose only to illustrate the most curious
+and notable examples.
+
+One of the finest collection of shoes in the world is that at the Cluny
+Museum, Paris, formed by the eminent French engraver, the late Jules
+Jacquemart. This was enlarged by the purchase of the collection of Baron
+Schvitter. The Queen of Italy has also acquired a large number of
+historical boots and shoes; and to Mr. Joseph Box, another enthusiastic
+collector, I am indebted for some of the drawings used for illustrating
+this article.
+
+A quaint story is told in a rare book, entitled "The Delightful,
+Princely, and Entertaining History of the Gentle Craft of Crispin, the
+Patron Saint of Shoe Makers, and his Brother Crispianus." According to
+this authority, they were the two sons of the King of Logia (Kent), and
+lived in the city of Durovenum, otherwise Canterbury, or the Court of
+the Kentish men. Having embraced Christianity, during the Roman
+invasion, they were in considerable danger, and at their mother's
+instigation, to conceal their identity, adopted humble attire, and
+devoted themselves to the modest craft of shoemaking, under the auspices
+of a shoemaker at Faversham, to whom they bound themselves for seven
+years. This industrious citizen appears to have received the appointment
+of shoemaker to the Court of Maximinus, whose daughter Ursula fell in
+love with Crispin. After removing the usual obstacles (which, even in
+those remote times, seem to have obstructed the paths of those who had
+fallen under the sway of Cupid), this energetic lady engaged the
+services of a neighbouring friar, and cut the gordian knot by marrying
+her faithful adorer.
+
+When primitive man first conceived the idea of producing some
+contrivance to defend himself from cold, sharp stones, or the heated
+sand of the desert, his first effort was to fasten to the bottom of his
+feet soles of bark, wood, or raw hide, which were followed, in due
+course, by more elaborately made sandals of tanned leather. These were
+fastened in various ways, but generally by two leathern straps, one
+round the instep, while the other passed between the first and second
+toes. Egyptian sandals were sometimes prolonged to a sharp point, and
+occasionally were made of papyrus, or some flexible material; but the
+commoner kinds were, as a rule, of wood or leather. Often they had
+painted upon them the effigy of the wearer's enemy, who was thus
+literally trodden underfoot. Owing to their proximity, the habits and
+customs of the Egyptians and Jews were in many respects similar. The
+same Hebrew word denotes both a sandal and a shoe; and it has been
+concluded that shoes were probably confined to the upper classes, while
+sandals were used by those compelled to work; and slaves went
+barefoot.
+
+It will be seen from the sketches of Grecian and Roman shoes that they
+eventually became an elaborate article of dress, bound to the foot and
+leg with lacings, and ornamented in different ways. The senators had
+boots of black leather, with a crest of gold or silver on the top of the
+foot; and soldiers wore iron shoes, heavily spiked, in a similar manner
+to those now used for cricket, so as to give the wearers a better hold
+when scaling walls in the attack of fortified places. An iron boot was
+also used for torturing Christians. As an instance of the luxury so
+characteristic of the age, it is stated that Roman soldiers often had
+the spikes on their shoes made of gold. According to the testimony of
+Seneca, Julius Caesar wore shoes of the precious metal, a fashion
+emulated by Cardinal Wolsey many centuries after; and Severus was fond
+of covering his with jewels, to attract the attention of the people as
+he walked through the streets. The Emperor Aurelian forbade men to wear
+red, yellow, white, or green shoes, reserving these colours for women;
+and different shapes were prescribed by legal enactments to be worn for
+the easy distinguishment of various trades and professions. In the reign
+of Domitian, the stalls of shoemakers in the public streets were so
+numerous as to necessitate an edict for their removal.
+
+[Illustration: FOOT-GEAR OF DIFFERENT PERIODS.]
+
+Our own ancestors, the Anglo-Saxons, wore shoes of raw cow-hide,
+reaching to the ankles; and the hair turned outward. Those used by
+ecclesiastics were a kind of sandal fastened with bands of leather round
+the instep. The Norman half-boots had soles of wood, while the uppers
+were of a more pliable material. Those worn by the Crusaders were of
+chain, and later of plate armour. Very pointed toes were in fashion
+during the Middle Ages, and these were carried to such a ridiculous
+length that the dignitaries of the Church considered it necessary to
+preach against the practice. However, this did not result in its
+abolition, for we find the courtiers of the day improved upon the
+prevailing mode by stuffing their shoes, and twisting them into the
+shape of a ram's horn; the point of which was attached to the knee by a
+chain. The common people were permitted by law to wear "the pykes on
+their shoon" half-a-foot, rich citizens a foot, while nobles and princes
+had theirs two-and-a-half feet long.
+
+During the Plantagenet period it was usual to wear two shoes of
+different colours, and they were often slashed on the upper surface, to
+show the bright hose beneath. These were superseded by a large, padded
+shoe, gored over the foot with coloured material, a fashion imported
+from Italy, and exaggerated as much as the pointed shoe had been.
+Buskins were high boots, made of splendid tissue, and worn by the
+nobility and gentry during the Middle Ages, generally on occasions of
+State. They were also largely adopted by players of tragedy. They
+covered the knee, and were tied just below. The sock, or low shoe, on
+the other hand, was the emblem of comedy.
+
+One of the greatest follies ever introduced was the chopine, a sort of
+stilt which increased the height of the wearer. These were first used in
+Persia, but appeared in Venice about the Sixteenth Century, and their
+use was encouraged by jealous husbands in the hope of keeping their
+wives at home. This desire, however, was not realised, as the ladies
+went out as usual, and required rather more support than hitherto.
+Chopines were very ornate, and the length determined the rank of the
+wearer, the noblest dames having them half-a-yard high. Shakespeare
+refers to them when he makes Hamlet say:--"Your ladyship is nearer
+heaven than when I saw you last by the altitude of a chopine." He also
+alludes to the general use of shoes for the left and right foot, when he
+speaks of a man:---
+
+  "Standing in slippers which his nimble haste
+  Had falsely thrust upon contrary feet."
+
+[Illustration: GREEK AND ROMAN SHOES.]
+
+The exercise of the gentle craft of shoemaking was for a long time
+carried on in monastic institutions, and increased the revenues of the
+clergy. Richard, the first Abbot of St. Albans, objected to canons and
+priests of his era associating themselves with tanners and shoemakers,
+not one of whom, in his opinion, ought to be made a bishop or an abbot.
+It is said, however, that Pope John, elected in 1316, was the son of a
+shoemaker at Cahors; and in the description of Absalom, the Parish
+Clerk, Chaucer tells us, "the upper leathers of his shoes were carved to
+resemble the windows of St. Paul's Cathedral," which inclines one to
+believe in their priestly origin.
+
+[Illustration: ANGLO-SAXON AND NORMAN SHOES.]
+
+[Illustration: MEDIAEVAL SHOES.]
+
+From various sources, we have descriptions of royal shoes. Richard
+C[oe]ur de Lion had his boots striped with gold; those of his brother
+John were spotted with gold in circles. Henry III. had his boots
+chequered with golden lines, and every square enriched with a lion. In
+the splendid Court of Edward III., the royal shoes were elaborately
+embroidered. The coronation shoes of Richard III. were covered with
+crimson tissue cloth of gold. Henry VIII. is described as wearing
+square-toed shoes, which were slashed with coloured silk, and exposed a
+portion of the foot. Some worn by his daughter, Queen Elizabeth, of
+brocaded silk, are remarkably clumsy in appearance, and have lappets
+which fasten over the instep. They form a striking contrast to those
+used by the unfortunate Mary Queen of Scots (now in the possession of
+Sir James William Drummond), which are of kid, embroidered with coloured
+silks; the toes are somewhat squarer, but in other respects resemble
+those in fashion at the present day.
+
+[Illustration: QUEEN ELIZABETH'S BOOTS.]
+
+[Illustration: SHOE OF MARY QUEEN OF SCOTS.]
+
+[Illustration: SHOE WORN BY CHARLES I.]
+
+[Illustration: A. CHOPINE; B, BUSKIN; C, PEAKED SHOE; D, TUDOR SHOE.]
+
+[Illustration: MILITARY BOOTS AND SPURS USED AT THE BATTLE OF NASEBY.]
+
+In speaking of curious foot-gear, the under covering of the leg and
+pedal extremities must be briefly referred to. Ancient works on costume
+frequently mention hose, socks, and stockings, which were made of
+woollen cloth, leather, or linen, and held in place by cross-bands of
+the material twisted to a little below the knee, either in close rolls,
+like the hay-bands of the modern ostler, or crossing each other
+sandal-wise, as they are now worn in some districts of Europe,
+particularly in Russia and Spain. Cloth stockings, embroidered with
+gold, are among the articles of dress ordered by Henry III. for his
+sister Isabel; and of a woman mentioned in the "Canterbury Tales," it
+is said: "Hire hosen weren of fine scarlet redde, ful streite yteyed
+(tied), and shoon full moist (supple) and newe."
+
+[Illustration: ANCIENT SHOES--A, B, C, D, E, EGYPTIAN; F, PERSIAN; G, H,
+GREEK; I, J, K, L, PHRYGIAN AND DACIAN.]
+
+In the reign of Henry VII. clocks on stockings are discernible; and the
+Poet Laureate of this king, describing the dress of the hostess of an
+inn, gives an indication of how boots were cleaned:
+
+  "She hobbles as she goes,
+  With her blanket hose,
+  Her shoone smeared with _tallow_."
+
+It is supposed that hose or stockings of silk were unknown in this
+country before the middle of the 16th century. A pair of Spanish silk
+hose was presented by Sir Thomas Gresham to Edward VI., his father never
+having worn any but those made of cloth. In the reign of good Queen
+Bess, nether socks or stockings were of silk, jarnsey, worsted crewel,
+or the finest yarn, thread, or cloth, and were of all colours,
+"cunningly knit and curiously indented in every point, with querks,
+clocks, open seams, and everything else accordingly." Planche states, in
+the third year of Elizabeth, Mistress Montague, the Queen's silk-woman,
+presented Her Majesty with a pair of black silk knit stockings, made in
+England; and from that time she wore no others, in the laudable desire
+to encourage their home manufacture by her own example. The Queen's
+patronage, and the invention, in 1599, of a weaving frame, by William
+Lee, Master of Arts, and Fellow of St. John's College, Cambridge, gave a
+great impetus tus to the stocking trade, which has been carried on with
+considerable success ever since, particularly in the Midland counties of
+England.
+
+Spurs can be traced back to the Anglo-Saxon period, which is quite far
+enough for this purpose. They had no rowels, but were made with a simple
+point like a goad, and were fastened with leathers. Early in the 15th
+century spurs were screwed on to a steel shoe, instead of being fastened
+with straps. They were long in the neck, and the spikes of the rowels of
+formidable dimensions. From a sketch of a spur worn at the Battle of
+Naseby, in the reign of Charles I., it will be seen that, as progress
+was made in armour and military gear, considerable attention was paid to
+this portion of the soldier's outfit; indeed, it was more elaborate in
+design than is now considered necessary. From a very early period spurs
+have been used by both sexes.
+
+A curious custom was in vogue at the beginning of the present century
+for ladies to make their own indoor shoes. This fashion was inaugurated
+by Queen Charlotte, who was particularly deft in handling a beautiful
+set of shoemaker's tools, mounted in silver, with ivory handles.
+Tradesmen bitterly complained that worktables in boudoirs were strewn
+with the implements of their craft; but, like many other feminine fads,
+it soon passed away. About this period clogs were also used. These were
+made of wood, and served as a protection to shoes out of doors. A
+similar contrivance, with the addition of an iron ring, leather strap
+and toe-cap, is still sometimes worn by farm servants, and is called a
+patten. Another form of clog, consisting of a laced leather boot with
+wooden sole, is extensively used by the working classes in the North of
+England, and the sabot, a wooden shoe, is the ordinary foot-gear of
+peasants on the Continent.
+
+It is well known that Chinese women of high rank deform their feet by
+compressing them in such a manner that it is afterwards almost
+impossible to walk; and in Davis' interesting description of the Empire
+of China, he relates that whenever a judge of unusual integrity resigns
+his post, the people accompany him from his home to the gates of the
+city, where his boots are drawn off with great ceremony, and are
+afterwards preserved in the Hall of Justice.
+
+In Japan a peculiar wooden sandal, having a separate compartment for the
+great toe, is in common use. Straw slippers are also worn, and a
+traveller starting on a journey will strap a supply on his back, so that
+he may have new shoes in case of need. They are lefts and rights, and
+only cost a halfpenny the pair. Here one never finds those deformities
+of the feet so common in China, and even in our own country. A graceful
+carriage depends so much upon the shoes worn. Heavy and stiff ones
+oblige the wearer to plant the foot solidly at every step. If the toes
+are very pointed it is at the sacrifice of elasticity, and if the heels
+are too high the muscles in the ball of the foot are little used.
+
+Orientals indicate reverence by uncovering their feet, and do so on all
+occasions when Western nations would remove their hats. Their heads,
+being generally shaven, are always covered, and are surmounted by a
+head-dress which could not be replaced without considerable trouble;
+while for the feet they have loose slippers, with a single sole, made of
+coloured morocco or embroidered silk, which are easily thrown off. Few
+things inspire them with greater disgust than for anyone to enter their
+rooms with shoes on. They think such conduct an insult to themselves and
+a pollution to their apartment; and it is considered the height of
+irreverence to enter a church, mosque, or a temple without removing
+them. Even classical heathenism affords instances of this usage. The
+Roman women were obliged to go barefoot in the Temple of Vesta; the same
+rule existed in that of Diana, at Crete; and those who prayed in the
+Temple of Jupiter also followed this custom.
+
+In the East, the public removal of the sandal or shoe, and the giving it
+to another, accompanied by certain words, signifies a transfer of
+authority or relinquishing possession. We are told in the case of Ruth
+and Boaz, when her kinsman gave up his right to marry her, in favour of
+her second husband, "he drew off his shoe." Among the Bedouins, when a
+man permits his cousin to marry another, or divorces his runaway spouse,
+he generally says, "She was my slipper; I have cast her off." Again,
+when shoes are left at the door of an apartment, they denote that the
+master or mistress is engaged, and even a husband does not venture into
+a wife's room while he sees the slippers on the threshold. The idea is
+not altogether unknown among ourselves, as it is expressed in the homely
+proverb, "to stand in another man's shoes;" or when we speak of coming
+into a future inheritance as stepping into a "dead man's shoe." Also in
+flinging the slipper after a departing bride, signifying that the father
+transfers his authority to the husband.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+BRIDAL COSTUME.
+
+
+[Illustration: MARRIAGE PROCESSION OF A BRIDE IN LEBANON.]
+
+Certain curious customs have been associated with the Ordinance of
+Marriage from a very early period, and among others may be mentioned the
+union of near relations in barbaric or semi-barbaric tribes; the
+providing of husbands and wives for a family according to seniority (so
+that the younger members had to possess their souls in patience till the
+elder ones were disposed of); the paying of an equivalent for the
+bride's services to her father in money or kind; and festivities often
+lasting over several days to celebrate the nuptials. The Rabbins
+acquaint us with the fact that seven days' feasting was an indispensable
+obligation on all married men, and that the bride was not consigned to
+her husband until after the days of feasting had expired. They were
+generally spent in the house of the woman's father, after which she was
+conducted in great state to her husband's home. When the bride was a
+widow, the festivities only lasted for three days. Customs in the East
+are perpetuated from one generation to another, and we now find among
+the inhabitants of the Orient the same mode of life as was adopted by
+the patriarchs of old. The description of the wooing of Isaac and
+Rebekah, for example, so graphically told in Genesis, differs in few
+respects from that of a young couple of the same rank in the present
+day. Handsome presents, consisting of jewels, apparel, &c., are
+presented to the woman and her family, and form part of her dower in
+case of divorce. Rich shawls, fine dresses, personal ornaments, money,
+and a complete outfit of domestic utensils are always included in such a
+gift. Among some of the Arab tribes the dower received on such
+occasions, and called the "five articles," consists of a carpet, a
+silver nose ring, a silver neck chain, silver bracelets, and a camel
+bag. Matrimonial overtures are generally made by the parents of the
+contracting parties in Persia, but after all has been concluded, the
+bride-elect has nominally the power, though it is seldom exercised, of
+expressing her dissent before the connection receives its final
+sanction. Among many Bedouin tribes the woman is not suffered to know
+until the betrothing ceremonies announce it to her who is to be her
+husband, and then it is too late to negative the contract, but she is
+permitted to withdraw from her husband's tent the day after her
+marriage, and to return to her father; in which case she is formally
+divorced, and is henceforward regarded as a widow. On the value of her
+ornaments the Eastern bride bases her claim to consideration; and though
+the Arab, as a rule, cares little for his own dress, he decks his wife
+as richly as possible, that honour may be reflected upon himself and his
+circumstances. The leg ornaments and bracelets are often enormously
+thick, and have no fastenings, but open and compress by their own
+elasticity. It is not unusual to wear several on the same arm, reaching
+to the elbow. They form a woman's sole wealth, and are not treasured up
+for special occasions, as is usual among Western nations, but are used
+as part of of the daily costume. Various materials are employed in their
+manufacture; gold is necessarily rare, silver less so, while others are
+composed of amber, coral, mother-of-pearl, and beads.
+
+[Illustration: ANCIENT EGYPTIAN BRIDAL COSTUME.]
+
+[Illustration: FESTIVITIES AT AN EASTERN MARRIAGE.]
+
+We are told, when Rebekah approached her future home and saw a man
+walking in the distance, she evinced a curiosity, natural under the
+circumstances, and inquired about him; and on discovering that it was
+Isaac, "she took a veil and covered herself." It is still almost
+universal in the East for a woman, whose face is not concealed on other
+occasions, to envelop her head and body in an ample veil before she is
+conducted to her husband, and it is considered an indispensable part of
+the bridal costume. The details of the home coming are modified by the
+local usages and religions of the different countries. In Syria, Persia,
+and India, the bridegroom, in person, brings home the bride; in some
+other countries this duty devolves on a near relative, and he remains at
+home to receive the lady on her arrival. From various sources, but
+particularly from indications in Scripture, we may gather that the Jews
+employed either of these methods, according to circumstances. Again, in
+Egypt the bridegroom goes to the Mosque when his bride is expected, and
+returns home in procession after she has arrived. In Western Asia the
+procession usually walks, if the bride's future house is at no great
+distance in the same town. In such cases she is often partially covered
+by a canopy, and in Central and Eastern Asia it is the rule for her to
+be mounted on a mare, mule, ass, or camel, unless she is carried in a
+palanquin. Much, of course, depends on the social position of those
+married. Music attends such processions, and often dancing; the Jews
+certainly had the former, and some think the latter also, at least, in
+the time of our Saviour.
+
+[Illustration: A GREEK BRIDESMAID.]
+
+In Halhed's translation of the Gentoo Laws, and in Mr. Roberts's
+"Oriental Illustrations," reference is made to the custom of marrying
+the elder sister first, and the same usage is observed with regard to
+the brothers. When, in India, the elder daughter happens to be blind,
+deaf, dumb, or deformed, this formality is dispensed with; and there
+have been cases when a man, wishing to obtain a younger daughter, has
+used every means in his power to promote the settlement of his future
+sister-in-law, so as to forward his own nuptials. Fathers, too, will
+sometimes exert their powers to compass the marriage of the elder
+daughter, when a very advantageous offer is made for the younger one.
+
+It is generally believed that Psalm xlv., commonly known as "The Song of
+Loves," was composed on the occasion of Solomon's marriage--probably to
+Pharaoh's daughter; and here we find the Egyptian bride's dress
+described as "all glorious within and wrought of gold, a raiment of
+needlework." Both expressions refer to the same dress, and imply that
+the garment was embroidered with figures worked with threads of gold.
+The Egyptians were famous for their embroideries, and some mummies have
+been found wrapped up in clothing curiously ornamented with gold lace.
+At the present day, both in Egypt and Western Asia, it is usual for
+ladies of the highest rank to employ much of their time in working with
+the needle linen and cotton tissues in gold and silver thread and silk
+of different colours.
+
+[Illustration: MODERN GREEK BRIDAL COSTUME.]
+
+The use of nuptial crowns is of great antiquity. Among the Greeks and
+Romans they wore chaplets of flowers and leaves, and the modern Greeks
+retain this custom, employing such chaplets, decorated with ribbons and
+lace. Modern Jews do not use crowns in their marriage ceremonies, and
+they inform us that they have been discontinued since the last siege of
+Jerusalem by the Romans. The information which Gemara gives on this
+subject is briefly that the crown of the bridegroom was of gold and
+silver, or else a chaplet of roses, myrtle, or olives, and that the
+bride's crown was of the precious metals. There is also some mention of
+a crown made of salt and sulphur, worn by the bridegroom, the salt
+transparent as crystal, the figures being represented thereon in
+sulphur. Crowns play an important part in the nuptial ceremonies of the
+Greek Church; they are also still used by Scandinavian brides.
+
+The ring in former days did not occupy the prominent position it does
+now, but was given, with other presents, to mark the completion of the
+contract. Its form is a symbol of eternity, and signifies the intention
+of both parties to keep the solemn covenant of which it is a pledge, or,
+as the Saxons called it, a "wed," from which we derive the term wedding.
+The Jews have a law which proclaims that the nuptial ring shall be of
+certain value, and must not be obtained by credit or gift. Formerly they
+were of large size and elaborate workmanship, but now the ordinary plain
+gold hoop is used.
+
+[Illustration: A, JEWISH WEDDING RING, GERMAN, 17TH CENTURY; B, MODERN
+ITALIAN; C, ITALIAN, 14TH CENTURY; D, VENETIAN, 16TH CENTURY; E,
+ENGLISH, 1706; F, ENGLISH BRONZE BETROTHAL RING, 17TH CENTURY.]
+
+A wedding ring of the Shakespearian era has a portrait of Lucretia
+holding the dagger, the reverse side of the circle being formed by two
+clasped hands. This is a very common shape, and is shown in the
+illustration of the English wedding-ring E, dated 1706, where white
+enamel fingers support a rose diamond. The modern Italian peasant
+wedding-ring B is of gold in raised bosses, while C is of silver; F,
+bearing initials on vezet, is of bronze. A is a handsome Jewish
+wedding-ring, bearing the ark, and D also has a Hebrew inscription.
+
+The gimmal betrothal ring was formerly a favourite pattern, and
+consisted of three circlets attached to a spring or pivot, and could be
+closed so as to appear like one solid ring. It was customary to break
+these asunder at the betrothal, the man and woman taking the upper and
+lower ones, and the witness the intermediate ring. When the marriage
+took place these were joined together and used at the ceremony. During
+the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries it was a common practice to
+engrave these emblems of affection with some appropriate motto. It was
+from Pagan Rome that European nations derive the wedding-ring, as they
+were used in their betrothals long before there is any trace of them
+elsewhere.
+
+[Illustration: AN EASTERN BRIDE.]
+
+In describing the bridal costumes of different nations, it should be
+distinctly borne in mind that a large majority of the upper classes wear
+on such occasions the traditional white satin and orange blossoms with
+which we are all familiar. Many, however, prefer the picturesque
+national costume associated with the land of their birth, and it has
+been my principal object, in selecting the illustrations, to make them
+as typical as possible.
+
+[Illustration: GARMENT FORMERLY WORN BY GREEK BRIDES.
+
+(_From South Kensington Museum_)]
+
+The Greek marriage service is full of symbol, and the sketch gives a
+good idea of the bridal costume. The bridesmaid is attired in a gold
+embroidered jacket, a skirt of brilliant colouring, and the crimson
+fez--the usual head-gear of a Greek maiden. She is depicted scattering
+corn, an ancient rite always performed at the conclusion of the
+ceremony. As she gracefully sways backwards and forwards, to the
+accompaniment of the jingling coins, which do double service as dowry
+and trimming, it is a pose and dress at once graceful and free. Formerly
+a wedding garment was often passed down from mother to daughter, and
+such an example is given in the soft yellow silk robe, lined with white
+and enriched with elaborate embroidery. Tiny stars in delicate shades of
+red, blue, and green, divided by black lines form the design and
+proclaim the industry and skill of the worker. These robes, however,
+have not been used in Greece since the beginning of the seventeenth
+century.
+
+In Japan, the beautiful land of the lily and chrysanthemum, the bride
+usually takes little more to her husband's home than her trousseau,
+which is ample enough, as a rule, to satisfy even a woman's passion for
+dress. The nuptials take place in the evening, and the bride is garbed
+in virgin white robes, figured with a lozenge design. These garments are
+the gift of the bridegroom, and in them she passes from the home of her
+girlhood to that of her husband. The household gods of both families are
+assembled before an altar decked with flowers and covered with
+offerings. Near stands a large table, with a dwarf cedar; it also holds
+the Japanese Adam and Eve, and the mystic turtle and stork. The two
+special attendants of bride and bridegroom are called butterflies, and
+in their dress and colouring rival these beautiful insects, which in
+this country are the symbol of conjugal felicity. The most solemn part
+of the marriage ceremony is the scene of the two-mouthed vase. At a
+signal, one butterfly fills the vase, and the other offers it to the
+kneeling couple, the husband drinking first, and afterwards the wife.
+This draught signifies that henceforward they are to partake equally of
+the bitters and sweets of the coming years. Rice is thrown from either
+side, so as to mingle, and the wicks of two candles are placed together,
+to symbolize the joining of body and soul.
+
+The marriage processions of other Oriental nations have already been
+referred to, and in India it is customary to perform the ceremony under
+a species of canopy richly ornamented and lighted by lamps. The bride
+wears, in addition to the native costume, a curious veil composed of
+strings of gold beads and tassels. In Hindu marriages the sacred fire or
+_oman_ (which is constantly renewed by throwing upon it scented oils,
+sandalwood, incense, and other aromatic perfumes) is a prominent
+feature, and the union of a couple is consecrated by sprinkling a
+handful of saffron, mixed with rice flour, on their shoulders. Finally,
+the husband presents his wife with a little golden image called _talee_,
+a substitute for the wedding ring, and worn by Indian women as their
+symbol of matrimony.
+
+A missionary thus describes a Buddhist marriage:--"The bride, loaded
+with jewellery, accompanied by women richly attired, entered the room,
+and sat down with the bridegroom on the floor. A number of candles were
+then lighted, and the company saluted and congratulated the happy
+couple, and expressed their kind wishes by blowing smoke towards them,
+while a band of string instruments discoursed sweet music. Two cushions
+were placed before the bridegroom, on which a sword was laid, and food
+was also near them. Next the hands of each were bound together, then the
+two to each other with silken threads. This act was performed by the
+nearest relative present, and completed the ceremony." Brief, indeed,
+are the forms of marriage indulged in by the people of Borneo. Each of
+the contracting parties chews a betel nut; an elderly woman mutters some
+sort of incantation, and brings the heads of bride and bridegroom in
+close contact, after which they are declared man and wife, and are no
+longer regarded as twain, but one flesh. The Cherokee form of marriage
+is perhaps the most simple. The two join hands over a running stream,
+emblematic of the wish that their future lives, hopes, and aspirations,
+should flow on in the same channel. A peculiar custom of the Lascars is
+the putting of a ring on the great toe when they marry. Mrs. Bishop, who
+has explored Tibet and studied the habits and customs of the people,
+informs us that polyandry is favoured by the women of that country. The
+heir of the land and eldest son appears to be the only member of the
+family who can contract a marriage in the legal sense as we understand
+it, but all his brothers are accepted by the wife as inferior or
+subordinate husbands. By this means they are kept well under the control
+of the superior husband, whom they regard as the "Big Father," and, as a
+matter of form, any children who may be born are accepted by him.
+
+[Illustration: HINDU BRIDEGROOM'S PROCESSION.]
+
+Thus the whole family are attached to the soil, and seem to work in
+concord, and the women have the satisfaction of knowing that in the
+average course of Nature they can never become widows, and that there
+will always be someone to work for them and their offspring. "It is the
+custom for the men and women of a village to assemble when a bride
+enters her home with her husbands, and for each of them to present her
+with three rupees. The Tibetan wife, far from spending these gifts on
+personal adornment, looks ahead, contemplating possible contingencies,
+and immediately hires a field, the produce of which is her own, and
+accumulates from year to year, so that she may not be portionless should
+she desire a divorce."
+
+The African tribes, of course, differ materially in their marriage
+customs, but some form of exchange for the services of the woman are
+insisted on, and often take the shape of a present of cattle to the
+bride's father. On the West Coast, in the neighbourhood of Gaboon,
+where slavedom is recognised, there is an understanding that a wife may
+be purchased for a slave bundle, valued at about L6 in English money,
+and there appears to be no sliding scale as to youth, beauty, form, or
+degree. A bundle contains specimens of every article sold by a general
+storekeeper. The most important features of a slave bundle are a
+Neptune, or brass pan used for making salt, which is a current article
+of commerce, and a piece of native cloth, manufactured by these people
+for dress purposes, from a species of palm which grows on the river
+banks in great luxuriance. Both sexes anoint themselves with palm oil
+and other greasy substances, and no greater compliment can be paid to an
+African belle than to say she looks "fat and shining."
+
+[Illustration: VEIL OF HINDU BRIDE.]
+
+[Illustration: HINDU MARRIAGE CEREMONY.]
+
+Mr. Hutchinson, in his interesting work, "Ten Years in AEthiopia," gives
+a quaint and amusing account of the toilet of a Fernandian bridegroom:
+"Outside a small hut, belonging to the mother of the bride expectant, I
+soon discovered the happy bridegroom undergoing his toilet at the hands
+of his future wife's sister. A profusion of Tshibbu strings being
+fastened round his body, as well as his legs and arms, the anointing
+lady, having a short black pipe in her mouth, proceeded to rub him over
+with Tola pomade. He seemed not altogether joyous at the anticipation of
+his approaching happiness, but turned a sulky gaze now and then on a
+piece of yam which he held in his hand, and which had a parrot's red
+feather fixed on its convex side. This was called 'Ntshoba,' and is
+regarded as a protection against evil influences on the important day.
+The bride was borne down by the weight of rings and wreaths and girdles
+of Tshibbu. Tola pomatum gave her the appearance of an exhumed mummy,
+save her face, which was all white; not from excess of modesty, for the
+negro race are reported to blush blue, but from being smeared over with
+a white paste, the emblem of purity." What a hideous substitute for the
+classical wreath of orange blossoms, and what a contrast must be offered
+when the cosmetic peels off and displays the dusky skin upon which it is
+laid!
+
+According to Russian law, no man can marry before he is eighteen years
+of age, or a woman before she is sixteen; nor after he is eighty, and
+she is sixty. Priests are permitted to marry once. Secret marriages
+without witnesses are regarded as invalid, and both bride and bridegroom
+must be baptized persons. If a Russian takes a foreigner for a wife, she
+must bind herself in writing to bring up any children she may have in
+the Greco-Russian faith. According to an ancient custom the bridegroom
+presents his bride with the costume and jewellery worn at the marriage.
+The dowry comes from her family, and consists of a complete wardrobe,
+silver, linen, and household furniture of all kinds. The hair of an
+unmarried woman of the peasant class in Russia is dressed in a single
+plait hanging loose upon the shoulders, and tied with ribbon. After
+marriage it is arranged in two braids coiled round the head, covered
+with a cap tied behind, or with a cotton or silk handkerchief and a
+little lappet of linen rests on the forehead, and is considered an
+inevitable symbol of marriage. Marriages are performed after banns, and
+much of the finery used by the lower classes is hired for the occasion;
+and the crowns used in the Russian ceremony are generally the property
+of the Church. Formerly they were worn for a week, but this practice has
+been discontinued.
+
+[Illustration: A RUSSIAN BRIDE.]
+
+[Illustration: NORWEGIAN PEASANT BRIDE AND BRIDEGROOM.]
+
+There are three distinct periods in the life of a Norwegian woman, and
+each one has marked characteristics, particularly as regards dress.
+During girlhood, up to the time of confirmation, a solemn occasion for
+which there is much preparatory training, girls do not usually go from
+home to work, or earn their own living. Among the poorer classes this
+ceremony takes place when they are about fifteen. Their petticoats are
+short and their hair is arranged in two long plaits. After confirmation
+they are supposed to regard life from its more serious aspect, and to
+engage themselves with various duties, according to their station. The
+third stage, of course, is married life, and it should be stated that
+neither men nor women can enter upon the holy contract unless they can
+bring proof of their confirmation, and can show ample evidence of
+sufficient means to provide for a household. The marriage is preceded by
+a betrothal ceremony, when the young couple go to the church,
+accompanied by their friends, and exchange rings of plain gold and
+presents of jewellery and apparel, which must be worn on the wedding
+day. At her marriage the peasant bride wears the crown. It has a rim of
+brass to fit the head, and the upper portion is of silver and gold,
+sometimes embellished with precious stones. Such crowns are generally
+heirlooms, and it is not uncommon for all the brides of one family for
+centuries to wear the same adornment for the head. A very usual dress on
+such an occasion is a plain skirt of some woollen material, with a
+bodice and full sleeves of snowy linen, a corselet of red and green,
+ornamented with bands and buckles, and a white apron trimmed with
+embroidery. A silver-gilt breast ornament is worn by Swedish brides. The
+band is wrought with bosses, and depending from it are small beaten
+discs, and a medallion bearing the sacred initials I.H.S. The
+bridegroom's hat in the illustration was probably an heirloom too, from
+its shape and fashion. He wears a red waistcoat cut short and fastened
+with brass buttons, and a loose cloth coat ornamented with embroidered
+revers. The black small clothes show to advantage a well-shaped leg, and
+on the feet are low shoes. Usually the festivities in connection with a
+peasant wedding in Norway are kept up for three days, and during the
+time there is much feasting and merrymaking among the friends of bride
+and bridegroom.
+
+[Illustration: ORNAMENT WORN BY SWEDISH PEASANT BRIDE.]
+
+[Illustration: A BRIDEGROOM'S TOILET AT FERNANDO PO.]
+
+Gipsies are, as a rule, married at a very early age. A girl is generally
+betrothed at fourteen, and becomes a wife two years later. The marriage
+ceremony is performed by a priest wearing a ram's horn as a sign of
+office, and, as becomes a nomadic race, the four elements--fire, air,
+earth, and water--take a prominent position. The horn is the symbol of
+authority, and is often made use of in Scripture. So much were rams'
+horns esteemed by the Israelites that their priests and Levites used
+them as trumpets in the taking of Jericho; and modern Jews when they
+confess their sins announce the ceremony by blowing a ram's horn. In
+ancient Egypt and other parts of Africa, Jupiter Ammon was worshipped
+under the figure of a ram, and to this deity one of these animals was
+sacrificed annually. It seems to have been an emblem of power from the
+remotest ages. It would therefore appear that the practice of the gipsy
+priest wearing a ram's horn suspended from a string round his neck at a
+marriage is derived from the highest antiquity, and undoubtedly points
+to the Oriental origin of the gipsy race.
+
+Various expedients have been resorted to by different rulers of sparsely
+populated kingdoms to encourage men to enter the married state. In
+ancient Rome the law forbade that a bachelor should inherit any legacy
+whatever, and in Sparta, under the rule of Lycurgus, they were not
+permitted to have a part in the government, nor might they occupy any
+civil or military post. They were excluded from participation in public
+festivals, except on certain fixed occasions, and then the women had the
+right to lead them to the altars, where they were beaten with rods to
+the sound of scornful songs. As late as the reign of William and Mary,
+widowers were taxed in England at the following rates:--Dukes, L12 10s.;
+lower peers a smaller sum, and commoners one shilling each, if they
+elected to remain in a state of single blessedness. Widows also,
+especially those of high degree and fortune, were encouraged to dip
+again in the matrimonial lottery, and children were betrothed at a very
+tender age.
+
+[Illustration: AN ENGLISH BRIDE.]
+
+Bridesmaids in Anglo-Saxon times attended on the bride, and performed
+specified duties, particularly in the festivities which usually followed
+on such occasions. Even during the earlier portion of the present
+century it was a common custom for one to accompany the bridal couple on
+their honeymoon; and it was also her duty to prepare and present the
+"benediction posset," which is referred to by Herrick in "Hesperides:"--
+
+  "A short sweet prayer shall be said,
+  And now the posset shall be made
+  With cream of lilies not of kine
+  And maiden blush for spiced wine."
+
+The fashion of brides wearing spotless white is a comparatively modern
+one. From accounts of bridal gowns in bygone times, we find rich
+brocades, golden tissues, and coloured silks were employed for this
+purpose; and at the present day white is considered only appropriate to
+the virgin, and is absolutely dispensed with by those women who have
+been married before.
+
+Of modern marriage customs in England there is no occasion to speak, for
+what woman is there among us who has not made an exhaustive and complete
+study of this vital matter? It may, however, comfort those who are
+beginning to wonder if marriage and giving in marriage is going out of
+fashion, to know that during the first quarter of 1894, 95,366 persons
+were joined together in the British Islands, an increase of 18 per cent.
+over the first three months of the previous year, 1893 and 9 per cent.
+over the mean rate for the same quarter for the preceding ten years.
+Figures are incontrovertible facts, so our ears need no longer be
+assailed by the bitter cry of
+
+  "DARKEST SPINSTERDOM."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+MOURNING.
+
+  "The air is full of farewells to the dying
+  And mourning for the dead."--_Longfellow._
+
+
+[Illustration: ANCIENT JEWISH FUNERAL PROCESSION.]
+
+[Illustration: LAYING OUT AND MOURNING THE DEAD.]
+
+The signs of mourning in ancient times were by no means confined to the
+apparel. Fasting, laceration of the flesh, throwing dust on the head,
+and shaving the hair, were outward and visible signs of grief,
+accompanied by piercing cries of the most heartrending description. It
+was also customary to abstain from ornaments, to rend the clothing, and
+to put on filthy garments of sackcloth. This fabric was, and is still in
+the East, made of hair, which has an irritating effect upon the skin,
+and was for this purpose adopted as a penitential dress by the early
+Roman Church. The covering of the head was another manifestation of
+sorrow--a practice indicated by the hoods worn by female mourners, and
+the flowing hat-bands for men, so common at funerals a few years ago. In
+"A History of Mourning," by Richard Davey, from which many interesting
+facts on this subject may be gathered, we learn that the Egyptians, over
+three thousand years ago, selected yellow as the colour for mourning
+garments. The Greeks chose black as the most appropriate--a fashion
+followed by the Romans. The women of Rome had robes of black cloth, with
+veils of the same shade; but by a wise dispensation, young children were
+not compelled to adopt the symbols of woe. A year was the usual period
+for mourning a husband, wife, father, mother, sister, or brother; but
+relations who had been outlawed, imprisoned, or bankrupt, were not
+accorded this mark of respect. Numa published certain laws for the
+guidance of mourners, including one forbidding women to scratch their
+faces, or to make an exceptional display of grief at funerals. The
+Emperor Justinian (A.D. 537) also turned his attention to this subject,
+and regulated the expenses at funeral ceremonies, so as to secure those
+who remained from the double calamity of losing their friends and, at
+the same time, incurring heavy pecuniary liabilities on their account.
+Provision was made for burying each person free of cost, and for
+protecting the survivors from various extortions. Funds were
+appropriated for the purpose of interments, which were conducted by
+those appointed for the purpose. All persons were to be buried in the
+same manner; though those who desired to do so could, at their own cost,
+indulge in certain display, but this additional expense was limited. On
+state occasions, as, for example, on the death of an Emperor or a great
+defeat, the whole nation assumed the mourning garb. The defeat of Cannae,
+the conspiracy of Catalina, and the death of Julius Caesar, were all
+considered of sufficient importance for the observance of this custom.
+Private mourning could be broken among the Romans by certain domestic
+events, as the birth of a son or daughter, the marriage of a child, or
+the return of a prisoner taken in war. Both sexes were expected to
+abstain from going to public ceremonies and places of amusement; and
+women were not allowed to marry till a year had elapsed from the
+husband's death, without the special permission of the Emperor. History,
+however, does not record that their lords and masters applied this rule
+to their own conduct.
+
+[Illustration: THE MODE OF ENFOLDING THE DEAD.]
+
+The Greeks buried their dead before sunrise, so as to avoid ostentation.
+Mourning women took part in the procession, and accompanied the chief
+female mourner in her visits to the grave, on the seven days following
+interment. This custom, which was derived from the East, was a usual
+feature in Jewish, Roman, and Egyptian, as well as in Greek funerals.
+
+[Illustration: THE CUP OF CONSOLATION.]
+
+The funeral feast was a common practice among the classical ancients,
+and was kept up to a comparatively recent period, in various European
+countries. The Cup of Consolation consisted of light refreshments
+prepared and sent in by the friends of mourners, who were not supposed
+to busy themselves with domestic affairs at such a time. The
+illustration gives a good idea of the mourning habit adopted by the
+immediate family of the deceased. Caves were used for the disposal of
+the dead, as well as elaborately constructed sepulchres, of which many
+remain to this day. Earth burial was in favour with some nations, but
+in time of war or pestilence cremation was resorted to. The practice of
+embalming we owe to the Egyptians, who carried it to a great state of
+perfection. One of the earliest embalmments on record is that of Joseph,
+whose body accompanied the Israelites on their journey through the
+Wilderness. He was placed in a coffin, a distinction in the East only
+accorded to those of the highest rank, the usual mode being to simply
+swathe the corpse closely in wrappers and bandages, thus retaining the
+shape of the human form. The Jews largely used spices and perfumes,
+which were employed both for anointing and for wrapping up the body--a
+very necessary precaution in hot climates. The Egyptians, on the death
+of a relative or sacred animal (the cat, for instance), attired
+themselves in yellow garments and shaved off their eyebrows. Their
+funeral processions were magnificent. When a king quitted this mortal
+sphere, the temples were closed for seventy-two days, and there were no
+sacrifices, solemnities, or feasts. Companies of two or three hundred
+men and women, in mean attire paraded the streets, singing plaintive
+songs and reciting the virtues of him they had lost. They ate no meat,
+or food dressed by fire, and omitted their customary baths and
+anointings. Every one mourned as for the death of a favourite child, and
+spent the day in lamentations. The Pyramids, those wonderful monuments
+to Egyptian monarchs, are memorials of the reverence and industry of the
+nation, whose high state of civilization is attested to by their works.
+
+[Illustration: AN ANGLO-SAXON WIDOW.]
+
+[Illustration: PRIEST OF THE 10TH CENTURY, WEARING A BLACK DALMATIC
+EDGED WITH FUR, READY TO SAY REQUIEM MASS.]
+
+Burial clubs were common among the Anglo-Saxons, and heavy fines were
+inflicted on those who did not attend the funeral of a member. The
+corpse was placed on a bier, and on the body was laid the book of the
+Gospels, a code of belief and a cross as a symbol of hope. A silken or
+linen pall was used, according to the rank of the dead person. The
+clergy bore lighted tapers and chanted the psalter, the mass was
+performed, and a liberal offering made to the poor.
+
+[Illustration: HIRED MOURNERS.]
+
+From a 9th century MS. in the National Library, Paris, is given a sketch
+which clearly defines the mourning habit of that period. The gown is
+evidently of black woollen cloth, trimmed with black and white fur; and
+a gauze veil of the same sombre tint envelops the head. From the same
+source a drawing of an Anglo-Saxon priest is given, on account of his
+wearing a black dalmatic, edged with fur, a vestment only adopted when a
+requiem mass was performed.
+
+[Illustration: MOURNING IN SACKCLOTH]
+
+[Illustration: WIDOW'S DRESS OF QUEEN KATHERINE DE VALOIS, IN THE YEAR
+1422]
+
+In the Middle Ages black was used for mourning as a rule, though purple
+and brown were occasionally substituted. Chaucer, in "The Knight's
+Tale," speaks of "clothes _black_ all dropped with tears," and, again,
+of "widdowes habit of samite _brown_." In many cases, on the death of
+her husband, the wife retired for a year to a convent, when she assumed
+the nun's dress, of which the widow's weeds of the present day are a
+symbol. The mourning adopted by Katherine of Valois, wife of Henry V.,
+the hero of Agincourt, who died at Vincennes in 1422, may be regarded as
+the typical widow's dress of that period. It consisted of a black
+brocade cote hardi, edged with white fur, and further embellished with
+black glass beads, which were also used for ornamenting the winged head
+dress. Her black woollen gown has a deep bordering of white fur. Some
+mourning habits of this period are represented in a splendid manuscript
+"Liber Regalis," still preserved in Westminster Abbey. They are composed
+of black fabrics in the prevailing fashion, and are furred with ermine.
+Froissart relates that the Earl of Foix, on hearing of the death of his
+son, Gaston, sent for his barber, and was close shaved, and clothed
+himself and his household in black. At the funeral of the Earl of
+Flanders, all the nobles and others present were attired in black gowns;
+and on the death of John, King of France, the King of Cyprus clothed
+himself in black mourning.
+
+[Illustration: COSTUMES WORN BY KING PHILIP II. OF SPAIN AND HIS
+ATTENDANTS AT THE FUNERAL PROCESSION OF HIS FATHER.]
+
+At the end of the fifteenth century, it was considered necessary in
+England to pass sumptuary mourning laws, owing to the extravagance of
+the nobility in the superfluous usage of cloth and other items at
+funerals. Habits and liveries were limited to certain quantities.
+Planche tells us dukes and marquises were allowed sixteen yards for
+their gowns, sloppes (or mourning cassocks) and mantles; an earl,
+fourteen; a viscount, twelve; a baron, eight; a knight, six; and all
+inferior persons, two yards only; but an archbishop had the same
+privilege as a duke. Hoods were only permitted to those above the degree
+of esquire of the king's household.
+
+[Illustration: GENTLEMAN'S MOURNING--TIME OF HENRY VII.]
+
+Margaret, Countess of Richmond, the mother of King Henry VII., issued,
+in the eighth year of his reign, an ordinance for "the reformation of
+apparell for great estates of women in the tyme of mourninge." "They
+shall have their surcottes with a trayne before and another behynde, and
+their mantles with traynes. The queen is to wear a surcotte, with the
+traynes as aforesaid, and playne hoode, and a tippet at the hoode lying
+a good length upon the trayne of the mantell, being in breadth a nayle
+and an inche. After the first quarter of a year, the hood to be lined
+with black satin, or furred with ermine; and all ladies down to the
+degree of a baroness, are to wear similar mourninge, and to be barbed at
+the chin." The surcotte, with trayne, hood, barbe, and tippet, are
+visible in the sketch of a lady of the sixteenth century, taken from
+Pietro Vercellio's famous work on costume. The gentleman's mourning of
+black cloth and fur, is reproduced from a contemporary MS.
+
+[Illustration: FRENCH LADY OF 16TH CENTURY IN WIDOW'S WEEDS.]
+
+Among the obsolete funeral customs, may be mentioned the Death Crier,
+the lying-in-state of all classes, and the waxen effigies of those of
+royal rank. Before newspapers published obituary notices, it was
+customary for the Death Crier, armed with a bell and attired in a black
+livery, painted or embroidered with skulls and cross-bones, to announce
+to the townspeople, and inhabitants of surrounding villages, that
+another had gone over to the majority. This functionary was in the
+employ of the Corporation, or civil authorities, and on the death of a
+member of the Royal Family, he was usually accompanied by the Guild of
+Holy Souls, who walked in procession, bearing lighted tapers and other
+religious emblems. Lying-in-state usually lasted for three days, by
+which time the arrangements for a simple interment were completed, and
+the body was placed reverently in the ground. The obsequies of kings and
+queens, however, were carried over a protracted period, consequently a
+waxen figure was prepared, which was dressed in regal robes, and
+substituted for the body as soon as decomposition set in. This fashion
+was in vogue till the time of William and Mary, and in Westminster Abbey
+there is a collection of waxen effigies, which may be viewed by
+permission of the Dean. As likenesses they are interesting, and they are
+also useful as costume studies.
+
+[Illustration: GERMAN WIDOW'S DRESS OF TO-DAY.]
+
+Of late years, in this country, mourning has been considerably modified,
+particularly for the male sex, who often content themselves with a
+black hat-band and another on the left sleeve of dark-coloured clothes.
+By Scotch law, whether a man dies solvent or insolvent, his widow may
+claim out of his estate, sufficient for mourning suitable to her rank,
+and the same privilege applies to each of her children, who are old
+enough to be present at their father's funeral. This right takes
+precedence over any debts the dead man may have contracted, and is a
+distinction not accorded to English, Welsh, or Irish widows.
+
+[Illustration: THE DEATH CRIER.]
+
+In most European countries black is the accepted colour for mourning;
+though in different parts of the globe white, yellow, red, brown, and
+even blue garments are prescribed by custom as the emblem of death.
+
+These shades have been selected for the following reasons:--Black is
+symbolical of the gloom which surrounds one when those who are nearest
+and dearest are taken. Black and white express sorrow mixed with hope,
+and white alone the light which follows the night of mourning. Blue, the
+tint of the heavens, to which it is hoped the spirit forms have taken
+flight. Yellow is typical of the dead autumn leaf, and brown the earth
+to which the body returns. Violet, a royal colour, is generally used for
+the mourning of kings and high dignitaries of the Church. Scarlet is
+also used for royal mourning occasionally.[A]
+
+[Illustration: ENGLISH WIDOW'S DRESS OF TO-DAY.]
+
+[Footnote A: For permission to reproduce some of the drawings from
+Davey's "History of Mourning," I am indebted to Messrs. Jay, Regent
+Street, London.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+ECCENTRICITIES OF MASCULINE COSTUME.
+
+  "The fashion wears out more apparel than the man."
+
+  --_Much Ado about Nothing._
+
+  "Through tattered clothes small vices do appear,
+  Robes and furred gowns hide all."--_King Lear._
+
+
+[Illustration: BRITON CLAD IN SKINS.]
+
+[Illustration: BRITON AT THE TIME OF THE ROMAN INVASION.]
+
+"Vanity, thy name is woman," "As vain as a woman," and similar epithets,
+are hurled at our defenceless heads by our teachers and masters; yet how
+few of them pause for a moment to consider whether they are altogether
+free from this human weakness or exempt from that love of dress which
+they so strongly condemn in others. It does not require a deep study of
+the history of costume to reveal some curious anomalies in this respect,
+and the sketches chosen for the purpose of illustrating this chapter
+will only give a faint idea of what has been considered appropriate and
+becoming to the manly form at different epochs. In Pelautier's "Histoire
+des Celtes," we learn that "the toilet of the ancient inhabitants of
+Britain, somewhat resembled that of the North American Indian of the
+present day, and consisted of a series of elaborate paintings over the
+whole surface of the body, which were no doubt originally intended to
+protect the skin, from the inclemencies of the weather, but were
+afterwards used as a mode of embellishment and a means of distinguishing
+the different classes, for it was reserved to freemen, and strictly
+forbidden to slaves. The lower classes confined themselves to small
+designs drawn at a considerable distance from each other; but the nobles
+had the privilege of ornamenting their persons with large figures,
+chiefly of animals, subsequently transferred to their shields, after
+they adopted a less scanty costume, and this may be looked upon as the
+origin of family arms." The Picts, who inhabited the north of Britain,
+were remarkable for their pictorial decorations, hence their name,
+derived from an ancient word, _picti_, which signifies painted. Our
+remote ancestors also added to their other charms (which were doubtless
+irresistible to the belles of that period), by deepening the tone of
+their naturally ruddy locks, by washing them in water boiled with lime.
+Their clothing was of skins of animals killed in the chase, and they
+were armed with implements of bone and flint. The Tyrian traders taught
+them how to construct various weapons of war from a composition of
+copper and tin, and their flat wicker shields were superseded by those
+of metal ornamented with concentric circles. After the Roman Conquest of
+Britain, the skin garments were laid aside for dyed tunics and close
+trousers. Over the tunic was worn a sagum, or short cloak, so named by
+the Romans from _saic_, a word of Celtic origin, which signified a skin
+or hide. When the head was covered it was with a cap, from the British
+_cab_, a hut, which, from its circular shape, it somewhat resembled, for
+the dwelling-places were composed of wattles firmly fixed in the ground
+and fastened together at the top. A curious remnant of this fashion is
+the horn-like cap of rushes still made by Welsh children. The hair was
+usually long and flowing. Men of rank shaved the chin and allowed the
+moustache to grow to an extraordinary length.
+
+[Illustration: CANUTE.]
+
+The Saxons and Danes are spoken of as wearers of "scarlet, purple, and
+fine linen," and the latter combed their hair once a day, bathed once a
+week, and frequently changed their clothing. By these means they found
+favour in the eyes of the women, and delighted the wives and daughters
+of the nobility. In a curious MS., written in the reign of King Canute,
+the monarch is represented in a tunic and mantle embellished with cords
+and tassels. The tops of his stockings are embroidered, but he wears
+simple leather shoes. A vestment presented by Canute to Croyland Abbey
+was of silk, embroidered with golden eagles, and the rich pall which he
+ordered to be laid over the tomb of Edmund Ironside, was "embroidered
+with the likeness of golden apples and ornamented with pearls." From
+this, we see that the needle played an important part in the
+ornamentation of clothing, and to it we also owe the splendid Bayeux
+tapestry, worked by Matilda, wife of William the Conqueror. This
+priceless curiosity is not only remarkable as a magnificent piece of
+workmanship, but affords a good idea of the dress of that period--the
+11th century. A tunic reaching to the ankle, leg bandages and shoes, a
+flowing mantle and flat cap, were the chief characteristics of the civil
+dress of this and succeeding reigns. The Normans, however, were
+clean-shaven.
+
+[Illustration: WILLIAM THE NORMAN, FROM BAYEUX TAPESTRY.]
+
+[Illustration: GENTLEMAN OF THE 14TH CENTURY.]
+
+[Illustration: PARLIAMENT ASSEMBLED IN THE REIGN OF RICHARD II.]
+
+[Illustration: A CAPUCHON OR HOOD, TIME OF EDWARD II.]
+
+During the Middle Ages extravagance prevailed in both male and female
+costume. Handsome furs were in great request, and several times
+sumptuary laws were passed. Men wore eight indispensable articles of
+dress, the shirt, breeches, stockings, shoes, coat, surcoat or
+cotehardie, mantle, and head dress. The coat or under-dress corresponded
+with the tunic of the ancients, and was entirely hidden, with the
+exception of the sleeves, by the surcoat. There were two kinds of
+mantles, one open in the front, the two sides connected by a strap
+resting on the chest, the other was open on the right side and had one
+end thrown over the left shoulder. Head coverings were of various
+descriptions; but many adopted hoods with long points, which were used
+to attach them to the belt when not in use. The assembling of Parliament
+in the reign of Richard II. gives the lay, spiritual, and legal peers in
+their usual costumes, and is reproduced from Planche's "History of
+British Costume." The Bishops are in cowls near the throne, the judges
+in coifs and furred robes, the Earls of Westmorland and Northumberland
+stand in front. The Duke of Hereford, in high cap, is to the left of the
+throne, and Exeter, Salisbury, and other peers are seated opposite the
+judges. During the reign of Richard II., which lasted over twenty years
+(1377 to 1399), there were many curious fashions in masculine attire.
+The peaked shoes, chained to the knee, were not more ridiculous than the
+deep, wide sleeves commonly called pokeys, which were shaped like a
+bagpipe and were worn by all classes. Many writers refer to them as the
+devil's receptacles, as whatever could be stolen was hidden away in
+their folds. Some were wide and reached to the feet, others to the knee,
+and they were full of slits. Hose were often of different colours.
+Parti-coloured suits were also in favour, and these were frequently
+scalloped at the edges and embroidered with mottoes and other devices.
+Chaucer, who wrote the "Canterbury Tales" towards the end of Richard's
+reign, describes in the most graphic manner the apparel of his
+contemporaries. "The haberdasher, carpenter, weaver, dyer, and tapestry
+worker, all wealthy burghers of the City of London, were clothed in a
+livery, and the handles of their knives, pouches, and girdles were
+ornamented with silver. The clergy were not to be distinguished from the
+laity, and rode on horseback, glittering with gold, in gowns of scarlet
+and green, fine with cut work. Their mitres embellished with pearls like
+the head of a queen, and staffs of precious metals set with jewels."
+Even the parish clerk is said to be "spruce and foppish in his dress."
+The author of an anonymous work called the "Eulogium," of this date,
+says:--"The commoners were besotted in excess of apparel. Some in wide
+surcoats reaching to their loins, some in a garment reaching to their
+heels, closed before and sticking out at the sides, so that at the back
+they make men seem like women, and this they call by the ridiculous name
+_gowne_. Their hoods are little, and tied under the chins. Their
+lirri-pipes (tippets) pass round the neck, and hanging down before,
+reach to the heels."
+
+Towards the end of the 14th century men began to wear short clothes made
+to fit the body so closely that it often required the assistance of two
+people to remove them, and it is from this period we can distinctly
+trace the difference between ancient and modern dress; in fact, our
+present fashions--masculine and feminine--resemble to a certain extent
+those worn during mediaeval times. Then, as now, men wore overcoats with
+tight sleeves, felt hats also with feathers, worn over a skull cap, and
+slung behind the back, and closely-fitting shoes and boots.
+
+The Tudor monarchs paid considerable attention to the adornment of their
+persons, and were responsible for stringent legal enactments calculated
+to encourage home manufacturers. Felt hat-making--one of our oldest
+industries--was introduced into this country from Spain and Holland. A
+great impetus was given to this branch of trade by a law passed in 1571
+which enjoined "every person above the age of seven years to wear on
+Sundays or holidays a cap of wool, knit made, thickened, and dressed in
+England by some of the trade of cappers, under the forfeiture of three
+farthings for every day's neglect." In 1603 the felt makers became a
+Corporation with grants and many privileges. Throughout the Middle Ages
+the upper classes frequently engaged in commerce. Bishops, abbots, and
+nobles personally superintended the disposal of the produce of their
+estates, and a considerable number of the younger sons of good families
+were the leading traders of the 15th and 16th centuries.
+
+[Illustration: COSTUME OF THE REIGN OF HENRY VII.]
+
+The "frocke" frequently mentioned, and of which the modern frock coat is
+the degenerate descendant, was a sort of jacket or jerkin made
+occasionally with skirts, a style associated especially, with Holbein's
+portraits of Henry VIII. and his contemporaries.
+
+The uniform worn at the present day by the Yeomen of the Guard stationed
+at the Tower of London, gives us the military costume of the Tudor
+period. It is the oldest corps in her Majesty's service, and was
+instituted by Henry VII. as the bodyguard of the sovereign. In the dress
+of the Bluecoat Boys at Christ's Hospital we have that of the citizens
+of London during the reign of Edward VI. and Mary, when blue coats were
+habitually used by apprentices and serving men, yellow stockings also
+were in common use. The badges on the jackets of firemen and watermen
+date from this time; they were made of metal and placed on the sleeve,
+in the 16th century, instead of being embroidered on the back or breast
+of the garment as they had been previously. Retainers in the households
+of the wealthy, were provided with surcoats and mantles twice a year, of
+their patron's favourite colour, and this was called the _livree_, from
+a French word signifying to distribute. Trade guilds and members of the
+learned professions, also adopted a distinct style of costume. Lawyers,
+who were originally priests, of course wore the tonsure; but when the
+clergy ceased to interfere with secular affairs the lay lawyer continued
+this sign of office, and also wore a coif. Their gowns were capacious
+and lined with fur: and the Justices of the King's Bench were allowed
+liveries by the King, of cloth and silk. Budge, or lambskin, and miniver
+were provided for the trimming thereof, and the colour appears to have
+varied in different reigns, but for a long time green prevailed.
+
+[Illustration: COURTIER IN THE REIGN OF ELIZABETH.]
+
+The courtiers of Elizabeth discarded the "frocke cote" for quilted and
+stuffed doublets and trunk hose, slashed and ornamented in the most
+quaint and extravagant manner. Below these were worn stockings
+embroidered with birds, beasts, and other devices, "sewed up close
+thereto as though they were all of one piece." Trunk hose were
+appropriately named, as they were often filled with wool, bran, and
+other materials. At last they became of such enormous size that it was
+necessary to construct swings in the Houses of Parliament in place of
+the ordinary fixed seats, for the accommodation of those wearing this
+singular article of attire. Enormous ruffs of muslin and lace encircled
+the necks of dandies of the Elizabethan era, and they appear to have had
+waists which would excite the envy of the belles of the latter part of
+the 19th century. In fact, the gallants of that day were even in advance
+of the fair sex, in their love of fantastic costume; and as
+Hollingshead, in _The Chronicle_, justly states in reference to the
+fashions of the period: "Nothing was more constant in England than
+inconstancy of attire."
+
+[Illustration: EARL OF SURREY, TIME OF HENRY VIII.]
+
+A few years since, behind some ancient panelling at Haddon Hall,
+Derbyshire, was discovered a washing bill (with other things
+appertaining to the 16th and 17th centuries) which gives us a good idea
+of the various articles of dress then worn. Reference is made to the
+_ruff_, which is too well known to need description; to _bandes_ made of
+linen and cambric, from which those now used by the clergy took their
+origin, and from which we derive the modern word bandbox. There were
+three kinds--some that stood upright, others were allowed to lie flat
+upon the shoulders, as shown in the drawings of Charles I. and II., and
+those which were embroidered and trimmed with lace. The _shirt_ applied
+to the under-garment of both sexes, and the half-shirt referred to the
+stomacher over which the dress was laced. _Boot hose_ were made of a
+variety of materials, and were occasionally called nether stocks;
+_socks_ were sometimes put over them; and _tops_ were of Holland linen
+or lace, and formed the lining of the full hanging boots of the
+Cavaliers.
+
+[Illustration: CHARLES I.]
+
+During the Civil War the dress worn by the King's adherents, consisted
+of a doublet of silk or satin with loose sleeves, slashed up the front;
+the collar was generally of point lace, and a short cloak rested
+carelessly on one shoulder. The hat was a broad-brimmed beaver with a
+plume of feathers, and trunk hose gave way to breeches. The Roundheads
+or Republican Party went to the opposite extreme. They cut their hair
+close, avoided lace and jewels, had plain linen or cloth suits of a grey
+or brown tint, with a hat somewhat resembling the modern chimney pot.
+
+[Illustration: CHARLES II. AND HIS QUEEN (1662).]
+
+[Illustration: WILLIAM III. (1694)]
+
+[Illustration: GENTLEMAN AND LADY OF 18TH CENTURY.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+About this period we also hear of the waistcoat, which was cut high at
+the neck, and was made with sleeves. Neckcloths and cravats of
+Brussels and Flanders lace were tied in a knot under the chin, and had
+square ends. Another peculiar feature of masculine costume towards the
+end of the 17th century consisted of petticoat breeches with drooping
+lace ruffles, such as adorn the nether limbs of Charles II. Patches and
+perukes were also adopted, and the former fashion, a revival of an old
+Roman custom, had political significance according to where they were
+placed on the face, and were bitterly ridiculed by numerous satirical
+writers. "I know many young gentlemen," says Middleton, in one of his
+plays, "who wear longer hair than their mistresses." The beard was worn
+in different ways, but the most usual shape was what Beaumont and
+Fletcher, in their "Queen of Corinth," call the T beard, consisting of a
+moustache and imperial:--
+
+                       "His beard,
+  Which now he put i' the form of a T,
+  The Roman T; your T beard is the fashion,
+  And two-fold doth express the enamoured courtier."
+
+Shakespeare also tells us, it was often dyed different colours.
+
+[Illustration: WALKING DRESS, 1830.]
+
+Everyone tried to rival his neighbour in the size of his peruke, till
+they became so preposterous that Charles II. showed his disfavour by
+writing a letter to the University of Cambridge forbidding the members
+to wear periwigs, smoke tobacco, or read their sermons. History does not
+relate what effect the King's censure had upon the head-gear of students
+attending the colleges, but it is absolutely proved that they paid no
+heed to his latter commands. It was the fashion for men to comb their
+perukes in public, and curiously-chased combs of bone and
+tortoise-shell, were carried in the pocket with the snuff-box, another
+indispensable appendage of a fine gentleman.
+
+In the 18th century the broad hat brims were turned up at the sides,
+and, in the racy vernacular of the day, "each gallant cocked his hat
+according to his fancy." Shoe buckles became general in the reign of
+Queen Anne, and displaced the ribbon rosettes formerly worn. Planche
+accurately describes the fashions of that day. "The square-cut coat was
+stiffened with wires and buckram, and the long-flapped waistcoat with
+pockets almost met the stockings. There were hanging cuffs with lace
+ruffles, square-toed shoes with red heels, and hats laced with gold or
+silver galloon."
+
+At the beginning of the 19th century many important changes took place.
+Excepting for Court dress, cloth was substituted for velvet and other
+rich fabrics. The coat was open, displaying an elaborate shirt-front,
+stock and flowered waistcoat; and the skirt, though full, fell in
+natural folds. Trousers were very tight, and held in place by a strap
+beneath the foot, and hats displayed narrow curved brims.
+
+We have only to cast our eyes down the vista of ages to find that
+British costume has been suited to the needs, habits, and customs of the
+people, and periods at which it was worn. Skins of animals were
+appropriate to the hardy cave dwellers who inhabited this country at an
+early period in the world's history. The simple dress of the
+Anglo-Saxons fulfilled the requirements of a primitive race; and the
+furs and rich fabrics brought home by the Crusaders were adapted to the
+higher state of civilization which prevailed in the Middle Ages. In the
+16th century the Renaissance (of art and culture) was specially noted
+for richness of attire. During the 18th century a mixture of styles
+which had found favour with previous generations was the most marked
+feature in the costume of that period, and this equally applies to the
+two first decades of the present one. Masculine attire at the present
+day, though simple and practical, has few points of beauty to recommend
+it. Briefly, it resolves itself into a series of woollen cylinders which
+changeth not from generation to generation.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+A CHAT ABOUT CHILDREN AND THEIR CLOTHING.
+
+  "The childhood shows the man,
+  As morning shows the day."--_Milton._
+
+
+Of children's dress in olden times we have singularly few details, and,
+as a rule, it may be concluded that their raiment was fashioned on
+similar lines to that worn by the men and women of the country in which
+they lived, and was more or less ornamented, according to their station
+in life.
+
+[Illustration: CHILDREN OF CHARLES I. (_After a painting by Vandyck._)]
+
+One or two biblical references enlighten us as to Eastern customs. On
+the authority of St. Luke, our Saviour in infancy was wrapped in
+swaddling clothes. "Samuel," we are told, "being a child, was girded
+with a linen ephod," which appears to have been a close robe or vest
+reaching from the shoulders to the loins, and confined by a girdle.
+Considering the climate and the habits of the people, it was probably
+the only garment used in summer, but in cold weather was supplemented,
+we presume, by the little coat his mother bought him from year to year,
+when she and her husband came to offer the annual sacrifice, at Shiloh,
+where Eli, the High Priest, lived. A coat of many colours was also
+presented to Joseph in his youth as a mark of Jacob's affection for the
+child of his old age.
+
+Greek and Roman children of the gentler sex are usually represented in
+the chiton, or loose classical gown, combined with a shawl or himation
+weighted at the four corners, so as to assist the wearer in adjusting
+it. How to put on this garment was carefully taught as part of a girl's
+education. The long end was first thrown over the left shoulder. The
+front part was arranged in folds across the body, passed under the right
+arm and over the left shoulder or forearm. The girdle sometimes
+consisted of a cord, at others of metal bands, and by drawing the chiton
+over it, a double thickness of the fabric covered the vital organs of
+the body. Boys wore the tunic and toga, and the latter is supposed to
+have been oblong, with the corners rounded off, so as to give a
+semicircular effect. Hats were not commonly worn, except by the poor or
+when on a journey, a fold of the toga or mantle serving for a head
+covering, and sandals protected the feet.
+
+The Egyptian labouring classes allowed their children to be nude, and
+infants were unfamiliar with swaddling clothes. The working man and boy
+had simply a loin cloth and girdle, and the girl a loose tunic fastened
+with strings at the neck and reaching to her feet. On the other hand,
+children of the upper classes in Egypt were repetitions of their elders
+on a small scale. Girls wore a linen skirt embroidered in colours and
+fastened with a bright sash, or suspended from the shoulders, and over
+this a loose transparent robe with long sleeves. The male costume
+consisted of a loin cloth, and a full robe with short sleeves, or a
+tunic, and both sexes had elaborately curled or plaited wigs, as the
+natural hair was only allowed to grow in times of mourning.
+
+The Roman occupation of Britain left its impress for a long period on
+the costume of the Anglo-Saxon race. The long-sleeved banded tunic was
+the usual habit of the industrial classes through the Middle Ages and
+leg bandages and cross gartering preceded breeches. Quite young boys
+appear in this dress, and little girls are seen in ancient MSS. in the
+kirtle and gunna, the equivalents of the modern petticoat and dress.
+Their hair, however, was allowed to fall naturally, or was dressed with
+two pendant plaits, and was not concealed, as was so often the case with
+adult females, by means of the head-rail. The materials used in clothing
+were to a great extent the produce of household industry. The women
+servants were employed in spinning, weaving, and sewing, and ladies of
+the highest rank did not disdain to participate in such labours. Several
+articles of dress were derived from the tanner, who worked up his
+leather into shoes, ankle leathers, and leathern hose. The art of
+tanning skins with the wool or hair on, was also practised, and dyeing
+was in great request, for in a rude age a love of gaudy colours is a
+natural characteristic of the people. The most skilful artificers were
+found in the religious houses, but under each landowner serfs were
+trained in the mechanical arts. Silk was worn by the wealthy, but the
+common materials for wearing apparel in this country were cotton, linen,
+and woollen.
+
+[Illustration: CHILDREN'S COSTUME, PRESENT DAY.]
+
+Among the Anglo-Saxons and their pagan ancestors the desertion of
+children sometimes occurred, but as the influence of Christianity
+increased, it was regarded as a crime, and a law was passed for its
+repression. For fostering a foundling the State allowed 6s. the first
+year; 12s. the second; and 30s. for the third year; and afterward the
+foster parent was to receive a sum varying according to the appearance
+of the child. Children bereft of their father, remained under the
+mother's care, but until the eldest child became of age were subject to
+the guardianship of the husband's relations. Mothers usually nursed
+their own children, cradles were used, and for the first few months
+their clothing was swathed with a bandage. In this compact form they
+were more easily carried, though the constraint to which they were
+subjected, probably prevented that free development of the limbs, which
+we now consider so essential to health and beauty. If very poor, the
+father was allowed to sell his son into slavery for seven years,
+providing the consent of the child was obtained, and one ten years old
+could give evidence. Until a daughter was fifteen years of age, her
+father could marry her as he pleased, but afterwards had no power to do
+so. A boy of fifteen could enter the monastic life if so disposed, and a
+girl at a somewhat later period. Monasteries offered the best education
+then procurable, and the clergy were directed to "teach youth with care,
+and to draw them to some craft." Schoolboys appear to have been kept in
+order, by the dread of personal chastisement, and great respect and
+reverence was exacted by their elders.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In the dress of the Blue-coat School (Christ's Hospital), we see the
+ordinary costume of boys of the Tudor period. It consisted of a long
+coat reaching to the heels and knee-breeches, a striped vest, yellow
+stockings, and a small round cap placed on the side of the head. The
+dress of little girls may be found on various monumental effigies, in
+which they appear like their mothers, in full skirts, sometimes
+distended by a fardingale, the body imprisoned in whalebone to the hips,
+a folded ruff encircling the neck, and their stockings (according to
+Stubbs) were of the finest yarn, silk, thread, or cloth that could
+possibly be had, of changeable colours, cunningly knit, with curiously
+indented points, clocks, and open seams. The shoes were of black, green,
+white and yellow velvet, or of leather stitched with silk and
+embroidered with gold and silver all over the foot.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The paintings of Vandyck bring graphically before us the picturesque
+elements of the dress of the Stuart era. There is an air of richness and
+refinement about the long skirted silken frocks embellished with lace,
+the pointed collars, and beaver hats with trailing feathers universally
+worn, and the quaint lace caps, which, by a turn of fashion's wheel,
+have been remodelled for the children of today.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+At no period in the history of costume were the styles so offensive to
+those with a true conception of colour and form than in the first half
+of the nineteenth century. We have only to turn to the sketches of Leech
+and contemporary artists to find bare necks and arms, conspicuous
+underwear, very short skirts distended by a stiffened petticoat or
+crinoline, white cotton stockings, low shoes fastened by a strap and
+single button, mushroom hats, aprons and pinafores devoid of elegance
+and grace, and the hair cut close to the head or arranged in rows of
+stiff ringlets. Nor did the boys of England, in trousers buttoned high
+on short jackets, or with tunics worn with frilled linen collars and
+leathern belts, show to greater advantage. Queen Victoria inaugurated a
+new system of clothing for boys, when she dressed the young Princes in
+Scotch and sailor suits, and the wardrobes of all classes have been
+considerably extended of late, by the open-air life and outdoor sports
+in which every self-respecting lad indulges. Cricket, tennis, boating,
+football, and cycling, all imperatively demand appropriate apparel, and
+tailors now give reasonable attention to this important branch of their
+business, and provide fabrics and designs suited to the needs of the
+rising generation.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Habits of personal cleanliness and the influence of dress on the minds
+of growing girls is hardly realized except by those directly concerned
+in education. Many a sensitive child's character has been warped by the
+thoughtless jeers of schoolfellows, who were quick to perceive that her
+clothing was not up-to-date or of such good material as their own. On
+the other hand, vanity, envy, and uncharitableness have been engendered
+by foolish mothers, who have provided their daughters with inappropriate
+and extravagant outfits.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Though many advocate uniforms with distinctive trimmings for girls'
+colleges, there are drawbacks to the scheme being adopted. Such a course
+would probably destroy the individuality which we all desire to see
+applied to the choice of clothing, and it would leave no field for
+original ideas. Children must be _trained_ to select and wear their
+clothes to the best advantage, and it is folly to think that they will
+do so by intuition. Some may possess naturally an artistic sense and a
+keen eye for colour, but they are certainly in the minority, and
+rational dress reformers have pushed sensible ideas to the verge of
+absurdity, till now the name is almost regarded as a term of reproach.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+How much we owe to pioneers of children's dress reform, and especially
+to Messrs. Liberty, who evolved what is generally known as the aesthetic
+style in dress. From sketches courteously placed at my disposal, I am
+enabled to put before the reader examples of children's clothing which
+are artistic in form, light of texture, and which in no way impede the
+physical development. Those who have the care of children should
+remember what a sacred charge is imposed upon them, and that their
+future health mainly depends, upon the manner in which they are clothed
+during the first few years of life. There must be no tight bands, belts,
+or garters to prevent circulation and to cause organic troubles; and
+where corsets are dispensed with, as happily they are in many cases
+where growing girls are concerned, the weight of the clothing should be
+borne by the shoulders, not the waist, and this is ensured by cutting
+undergarments in the princess or combination forms. Many young people
+suffer from being carelessly shod, and hideous malformations of the feet
+arise in consequence, while obscure diseases of the brain can sometimes
+be traced to heavy head-gear, and the strain of over-study. Hats should
+be of light construction, and afford a grateful shade to the eyes, if
+that far-reaching ailment of civilisation, short sight, is to be
+successfully combatted; and special attention must be paid to infants,
+who may often be seen in public thoroughfares with a hot sun beating
+down upon them, and the nurse oblivious to the fact. The sight of a
+tender infant entrusted to the care of a young woman, who has not the
+glimmering of a notion of how to look after its fragile body, must fill
+any right-minded person with indignation. Is it unreasonable to expect
+those who undertake the charge of children to acquaint themselves with
+at least an elementary knowledge of the construction and functions of
+the human body? The ignorance of the average nursemaid is appalling;
+and though a board school education may have acquainted her with the
+mysteries of the First Book of Euclid, or the rudiments of music, the
+curriculum rarely includes the simplest instruction on the healthy
+training of children; and, in consequence, the high rate of infant
+mortality in this country is a national disgrace.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+FANCY COSTUME OF VARIOUS PERIODS.
+
+  "The dome, where pleasure holds her midnight reign,
+  Here richly decked, admits the gorgeous train;
+  Tumultuous grandeur crowds the blazing square,
+  The rattling chariots clash, the torches glare."
+
+
+During the Roman occupation of Britain, many sports and pastimes, with
+their appropriate costumes, were introduced into this country from
+Southern Europe and the East, and at a very early period mummings were
+popular with the people. These were primitive masquerades, where the
+actors, if we may judge from antique illuminations, generally mimicked
+the brute creation rather than human beings. They often appeared between
+the courses at banquets, and on important occasions elaborate pageants
+were arranged. Ships filled with mariners were sometimes introduced, or
+towers garrisoned with armed men, while the actors portrayed some
+allegorical lesson or historical incident.
+
+A well-known event intimately connected with masking was the narrow
+escape from death by fire of Charles VI. of France, on January 29th,
+1392. The king, with eleven of his knights, for the amusement of the
+Court, dressed like savages, in tight-fitting garments of linen covered
+with flax, and were dancing before the Queen and the Duchess de Berri,
+when the Duc d'Orleans with a torch accidentally ignited the inflammable
+costume of a masker, who was chained to four others. The Duchess
+protected the King by wrapping him in the train of her mantle, but four
+persons died in great agony.
+
+Edward III. issued an ordinance against vagrants who exhibited
+scandalous masquerades in low ale-houses, and directed that such persons
+should be whipped out of London. The Feast of Fools was one of the most
+singular of these exhibitions. It somewhat resembled the Roman
+Saturnalia, and was enacted at Christmas. In England the celebration of
+this festival does not appear to have been attended with the same
+excesses as were commonly practised on the Continent, but it was
+nevertheless a season of licence, in which order and discipline were
+reversed. The churl was elected to represent the Pope; the buffoon was
+made a cardinal; and the lowest of the mob assumed for the time being
+the garb of the priesthood, and took possession of churches, where they
+parodied every part of the sacred service, and sang masses composed of
+obscene songs.
+
+Dramatic representations were so tainted by the grossness and
+licentiousness of the age, that priests were prohibited from attending
+them, till the Church introduced religious plays, founded on scriptural
+incidents, and which were known as miracles and mysteries. For these the
+actors were trained by the clergy, and sacred edifices and vestments
+were placed at their disposal, to give truth and lustre to the
+representations.
+
+There were frequent tournaments after the Norman Invasion, and these
+were patronized and encouraged by Richard C[oe]ur de Lion. From this era
+they occupied a prominent place in the national institutions and
+history, and afforded many opportunities for the display of picturesque
+costume. Ladies on these occasions were conspicuous, and sometimes rode
+in parti-coloured tunics with short hoods and tippets wrapped about
+their heads. Their girdles were decorated with gold and silver, and they
+carried small swords. The space marked out for the combat was surrounded
+by raised seats for high-born dames, princes, and the judges of the
+conflict. Knights wore their ladies' colours on their helmets,
+emblazoned on their clothing, and on the trappings of their horses; and
+throngs of troubadours, heralds, and minstrels dressed in gorgeous
+attire, were present to discharge their duties, and to give importance
+to the spectacle.
+
+The ancient English Morris Dance, performed with other quaint usages on
+the 1st of May, is supposed to be of Moorish origin. It is depicted on
+an antique stained glass window at Betley, in Staffordshire. The
+May-pole and the Man with the Hobby Horse (who represents a Moorish
+King, and is the consort of the May Queen), occupy a prominent position.
+The other characters are the Fool, the Lesser Fool, Tom the Piper, a
+Spaniard, the Franklin or private gentleman, a Churl or peasant, the May
+Queen, a Nobleman, and a Friar. The dresses were adorned with bells,
+intended to sound the measure of the dancers. They were of different
+sizes, and were called the fore bell, the second bell, the treble, the
+tenor, and the great bell.
+
+Planche, in his valuable work, the "Cyclopaedia of Costume," states the
+earliest illustration of a _bal costume_ is in a MS. of the fifteenth
+century, in the Ambrosian Library at Milan, and he gives a reproduction
+from an old painting on wood dating from 1463, representing a dance by
+torchlight at the Court of Burgundy. Each person holds a long lighted
+taper, and this dance, up to the sixteenth century, was usually reserved
+for wedding festivities. In England masked balls were rare before the
+reign of William III., and in France they first took place during the
+regency of Philip, Duke of Orleans, when the Opera House was converted
+into a ball-room. Father Sebastian, a Carmelite friar, devised a means
+of elevating the floor of the pit to the level of the stage, and of
+lowering it at pleasure.
+
+Ranelagh and Vauxhall Gardens, and Belsize House, Hampstead, were also
+places of popular resort, and scenes of many entertainments during the
+eighteenth century. There were pyrotechnic displays, bands of music,
+frequent balls, and facilities for dinner and supper parties. The lawns
+were dotted with arbours, lakes, and artificial cascades; the trees were
+festooned with coloured lamps, and the costumes of those who frequented
+these gatherings were elaborate and costly.
+
+From the writings of Horace Walpole and others, we learn that private
+open-air galas were of common occurrence among the aristocracy, and he
+gives a description of a _festino_ at Northumberland House in honour of
+the Marquess of Tavistock and his bride; when arches and pyramids of
+lights alternately surrounded the enclosure, and festoons of lamps edged
+the railings. In 1761 Her Majesty Queen Charlotte surprised her husband
+on his birthday with a splendid garden party, followed by fireworks, a
+cold supper of a hundred dishes, and an illuminated dessert. The Duke of
+Richmond celebrated a similar occasion with a masked ball and music--the
+vocal parts performed by many of the nobility, in fancy dress. Here,
+too, there was a display of fireworks in the garden and from the river.
+Almack's new Subscription and Assembly Room was opened in February,
+1765, under distinguished patronage; and Gibbon mentions a masquerade at
+a rival establishment, the Pantheon, which he states was above par in
+magnificence, and below par in humour, and cost L5000.
+
+Five o'clock was the dinner hour of fashionable people during the
+eighteenth century, and three for those of lower rank. At eleven p.m.
+supper was usually served, and breakfast was from nine to eleven a.m.
+The House of Commons commenced sitting at two, and the Opera began at
+seven.
+
+At this period the domino (evolved from the priestly cowl) was in great
+request, and was used in the boxes of theatres for purposes of
+concealment, and by those of questionable morals. Though the large hoop
+towards the close of the eighteenth century was only worn at Court, or
+in full dress, the pocket hoop for distending the panniers was still in
+vogue. For the abolition of the Court hoop, we are indebted to George
+IV., whose taste in dress was unimpeachable. Powder and patches
+maintained their ground till 1793, when they were discarded by Queen
+Charlotte and the Princesses. Aprons were regarded as a necessary item
+of a fashionable costume up to 1750, and the watch and etui adorned the
+waist, necklaces sparkled on the bosom, and bracelets were worn over
+long gloves.
+
+The French Revolution affected masculine costume; and in 1789 were
+introduced into this country the muslin cravat, in which the chin was
+partially concealed, stand-up collars, Hessian boots, and round hats of
+beaver. Scarlet coats were much in vogue about 1784, and an anecdote in
+"The Life of Sir Astley Cooper" represents him as returning from a
+dancing academy in a scarlet coat, a three-cocked hat, a black glazed
+stock, nankeen knee-breeches, and silk stockings. This may be regarded
+as the ordinary costume of a gentleman at that period.
+
+Wigs had begun to go out of fashion as early as 1763, in which year the
+wigmakers petitioned King George III. to support the trade by his
+example. "The hair," says Malcolm, "was dressed high on the head,
+whitened with powder, and alternately plaited and turned up or queued
+behind." When the hair powder tax--one guinea per annum--was enforced in
+1795, thousands of heads reverted to their natural colour.
+
+Some brilliant fancy dress balls (with a view to encouraging home trade)
+have taken place during the Victorian era. Of the first, which was given
+by the Queen and Prince Consort at Buckingham Palace in 1842, a
+permanent memorial exists in two handsome volumes compiled by J. R.
+Planche, containing carefully coloured illustrations of the various
+dresses, and autograph portraits of the wearers. They form an invaluable
+book of reference for those desiring accurate representations of the
+costume of the period of Edward III. (1327-1377). A special feature of
+this ball was a series of costume quadrilles, arranged by ladies of the
+Court and others of high rank. They were danced in the following
+order:--
+
+French quadrille, led by H. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge.
+
+Spanish quadrille, led by the Duchess of Buccleuch.
+
+German quadrille, led by the Duchess of Sutherland.
+
+Crusaders' quadrille, led by the Marchioness of Londonderry.
+
+Waverley quadrille, led by the Countess de la Warr.
+
+Scotch quadrille, led by the Duchess of Buccleuch.
+
+Cossack quadrille, led by Baroness Bremon.
+
+Greek quadrille, led by the Duchess of Leinster.
+
+[Illustration: PRINCE ALBERT AS EDWARD III.]
+
+Prince Albert, as Edward III., wore a costume copied from the effigy of
+that king in Westminster Abbey. It consisted of a long tunic of gold and
+blue brocade, reaching to the ankles. The collar, which fitted close
+round the neck, was bordered with purple velvet, thickly studded with
+jewels. The tunic, which had an opening up the centre to the height of
+the knee, was bordered and enriched with jewels to correspond with the
+collar, as were the wristbands. The hose were scarlet, also the shoes,
+which were embroidered with gold. Over the tunic, His Royal Highness
+wore a mantle reaching to the heels, composed of the richest scarlet
+velvet, bordered by a broad gold figured lace, set on each side with
+large pearls. It was lined with ermine, and connected across the breast
+by a band of purple velvet, studded with diamonds, rubies, and emeralds,
+and in the centre was a turquoise of immense size and perfect colour.
+The band was fastened to the mantle on either side by a massive gold
+ornament enriched with precious stones.
+
+[Illustration: QUEEN VICTORIA AS PHILIPPA, WIFE OF EDWARD III.]
+
+Her Majesty the Queen as Philippa of Hainault, wife of Edward III., was
+attired in a demi-trained skirt of crimson velvet, edged with miniver.
+Over this was worn a surcoat of blue and gold brocade, trimmed with fur
+to match, and embellished with a stomacher of jewels valued at L60,000.
+The other portions of the costume were also studded with jewels. The
+mantle was of gold brocade, with a floral design in silver. The hair was
+encased in a gold net, enriched with precious stones, and was surmounted
+by a crown.
+
+Princess Augusta of Cambridge personated Princess Claude, daughter of
+Anne of Bretagne, Queen of France. Her dress of silver tissue was
+bordered with ermine, and the tunic was of light blue velvet, worked
+with the fleur-de-lis in silver. The low bodice was bordered with
+diamonds. The sleeves of silver tissue reached to the wrist, and were
+trimmed with rows of pearls. The gloves were jewelled, and a white tulle
+veil with silver embroideries depended from a turquoise and pearl
+diadem. By Her Majesty's command, her own dress, that of Prince Consort,
+and most of the costumes worn at this ball, were manufactured by the
+silk-weavers of Spitalfields.
+
+For the second royal ball in June, 1845, the period of George II.
+(1727-1760) was selected, and 1200 guests were invited. The Queen looked
+extremely well in powder, and her dress is described as of cloth of gold
+and cloth of silver, with daisies and poppies worked in silk, and shaded
+in natural colours. The trimmings and ruffles of exquisite point
+lace--had belonged to Queen Charlotte--and the stomacher was trimmed
+with lace and jewels. The sacque was ornamented with ribbons, caught
+with diamonds. On the powdered coiffure was a diamond crown; Her
+Majesty's white shoes had red rosettes with diamond centres, and she
+wore the star and ribbon of the Order of the Garter. Prince Albert had a
+costume of the same period, with the Star of the Garter, and the Order
+of the Golden Fleece in brilliants. The Marchioness of Douro, the Duke
+of Wellington's daughter-in-law, was the acknowledged belle of this
+ball, and wore L60,000 worth of diamonds. Miss--now the
+Baroness--Burdett Coutts was also present, her dress trimmed with jewels
+once the property of Marie Antoinette.
+
+In 1871 the Princess of Wales attended the Waverley Ball at Willis'
+Rooms, with several other members of the Royal Family, and was much
+admired in the character of the ill-fated Mary Stuart. On July 22nd,
+1874, a fancy dress ball was given by their Royal Highnesses the Prince
+and Princess of Wales at Marlborough House, for which some beautiful
+costumes were prepared. The Princess wore a handsome Venetian dress, and
+danced in the first quadrille with the present Duke of Devonshire. The
+Prince in a Cavalier costume opened the ball with the late Duchess of
+Sutherland. The chief costume quadrilles on this occasion were the
+Venetian, the Vandyck, Characters in Fairy Tales, and a Pack of Cards.
+
+Another historic _bal costume_ was given in February, 1895, at Warwick
+Castle, by the Earl and Countess of Warwick. No more fitting background
+for such a function can be imagined than this stately mansion, which has
+been a centre of hospitality for countless generations, but has never
+been presided over by no more gracious and popular chatelaine than the
+present Countess. Lady Warwick looked very beautiful as Marie Antoinette
+(the consort of Louis XVI. of France) in a petticoat and corsage of
+exquisite English brocade, with a design of shaded roses, enriched with
+gold thread on a pearl-coloured ground. The train of royal blue velvet,
+embroidered in gold thread with the fleur-de-lis, was attached to the
+shoulders by a band of diamonds; and the Warwick jewels, diamond stars,
+were arranged on the corsage veiled with gold flecked gauze, which was
+also employed for the puffed sleeves. Her elaborate white coiffure was
+surmounted by a white muslin cap edged with blue velvet and adorned with
+diamond aigrettes and plumes of pink, white, and blue feathers. Lady
+Marjorie Greville (the only daughter of Lord and Lady Warwick) with Miss
+Hamilton acted as train-bearers. They wore the daintiest white costumes
+of the period, composed of broche silk, with fichus of white chiffon,
+and silk hats trimmed with feathers. Each carried a long crook tied with
+white ribbons and bunches of flowers, and the effect was charming. The
+Earl of Warwick wore a French Court costume, the coat of ruby velvet
+profusely trimmed with gold lace, white cloth cuffs, and revers. The
+long white kerseymere waistcoat was braided in gold, and the white
+knee-breeches and low shoes were ornamented with diamond buckles. The
+Earl's wig, _a la mousquetaire_, was tied with a bow of black ribbon,
+and he carried a tricorne hat with white ostrich plumes, and white
+gauntlet gloves. Lady Warwick's two sisters, the Duchess of Sutherland
+and Lady Angela Forbes, represented Marie Letzinka, consort of Louis
+XV., and Lady Mary Campbell. The former wore a magnificent gown of white
+satin de Lyon. The skirt embroidered with a flight of swallows in silver
+and crystals, a deep bertha of Point de Flandre, with ruffles of the
+same on the short sleeves. The train of crimson velvet was embroidered
+with the French emblem, and Her Grace had a stomacher of splendid
+diamonds. Lady Angela Forbes' dress was of white muslin, with a blue
+sash, and picturesque hat of turquoise silk, trimmed with feathers and
+roses. Princess Henry of Pless, as la Duchesse de Polignac, had a dress
+of rich white satin, the skirt embroidered 18in. deep, with turquoises
+and brilliants, a powdered wig, and the same jewels in her hair. Lady
+Eva Dugdale, sister to the Earl of Warwick, and lady-in-waiting to Her
+Royal Highness the Duchess of York, wore a Louis Quinze white satin
+dress, covered with pink roses, corsage _en suite_ fastened with large
+diamond ornaments. A silver trellis pattern was worked round the hem of
+the skirt, and white silk mittens and shoes completed the costume. Lady
+Rosslyn chose a white embroidered muslin petticoat, the overdress of
+pink and red striped silk, fichu and ruches of black lisse, and a
+picturesque hat. Lady Flo Sturt, as Madame la Marquise de Pompadour, was
+in rich cream satin, with bodice and sleeves of antique lace, and
+stomacher of diamonds. A black satin toque, with aigrette of diamonds,
+contrasted well with the white wig. Count Deym, the Austrian Ambassador,
+was in English Court dress. Prince Henry of Pless, in mousquetaire
+costume, represented the Vicomte de Bragelonne. The Duke of Manchester
+was in white satin breeches, waistcoat to match, bordered with gold, and
+coat of white and silver brocade with moss roses and foliage.
+
+The scene inside the Castle was one of unparalleled brilliancy, while
+those who glanced from the mullioned windows saw by bright moonlight the
+Avon frozen, the ancient cedars glistening with frost, and the
+surrounding country wrapped in a snowy mantle. The entire ground floor
+of the Castle was thrown open, and no pains were spared to give as
+complete a representation as possible of the gorgeous fetes which made
+the Court of Marie Antoinette famous throughout Europe. The finest
+spectacle presented itself when the guests assembled at supper in the
+oak-lined hall, where the light of a thousand candles was reflected in
+the bright steel armour which surrounded the walls. Several high
+screens, hung with Beauvais tapestry and shaded by huge palms, filled
+the angles of the hall, and the stone walls were partially concealed by
+yellow and silver embroideries. In the huge fireplace logs crackled, and
+on small round tables were placed silver candelabra with crimson shades
+and floral decorations, consisting of scarlet geraniums and maiden-hair
+fern. The centre table was reserved for Marie Antoinette and her Court,
+and here was the choicest display of family plate, including, amongst
+other valuable specimens of the goldsmith's art, a golden cup modelled
+by Benvenuto Cellini. From the hall you entered the Red Drawing room,
+which contains a marble table, inlaid with flowers and fruit, and
+formerly the property of Marie Antoinette. Next is the Cedar
+Drawing-room, used as the ball-room, on whose walls are many family
+portraits and other paintings by Vandyck; the remainder of the suite of
+State apartments were used as withdrawing-rooms between the dances; and
+at the opposite end of the Castle is the Library, the Billiard-room, and
+the Countess's lovely Louis Seize Boudoir, in ivory tints, with festoons
+of delicately-shaded flowers.
+
+Dancing was carried on with great spirit till early morning, and the
+tardy winter sun had risen ere the last carriage drove away from one of
+the most successful balls of the nineteenth century.
+
+Among the many important entertainments given by members of the English
+aristocracy in honour of the sixtieth year of the reign of Queen
+Victoria, was a Costume Ball at Devonshire House, Piccadilly, on July
+2nd, 1897, when the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire received nearly all
+the members of the Royal Family, many distinguished guests from the
+Colonies, and members of the Corps Diplomatique. This historic mansion
+was built for the third Duke of Devonshire, and it was here that
+Georgiana, the beautiful Duchess of Devonshire, held her Court. It
+contains a fine suite of reception rooms on the first floor; a gallery
+of pictures, in which the old masters are well represented; and
+extensive grounds in the rear, which on this occasion were decorated
+with thousands of Chinese lanterns and fairy lamps. The principal
+feature of the ball was a grand procession of the guests, headed by the
+Duke and Duchess of Devonshire, the former personating Charles V. of
+Germany, and the latter attired with Oriental magnificence as Zenobia,
+Queen of Palmyra, in a robe of silver tissue wrought with jewels. The
+mantle was of cloth of gold similarly treated, and the bodice was also
+studded with precious stones. The head-dress consisted of white ostrich
+plumes and a golden and jewelled crown, from which depended chains of
+pearls. H.R.H. the Princess of Wales, as Margaret of Valois, was
+surrounded by the ladies of her Court, their Royal Highnesses Princess
+Charles of Denmark, Princess Victoria of Wales, the Duchess of Fife, and
+the Duchess of York. The Princess of Wales wore a gown of white satin
+wrought with silver, and a train of cloth of gold lined with silver and
+superbly jewelled. H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, as Grand Master of the
+Knights Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem and Chevalier of Malta,
+wore a rich Elizabethan costume carried out in black and silver, and
+bearing the white cross of the Order on one shoulder. The Duke of York
+represented the Earl of Cumberland, one of Queen Elizabeth's courtiers.
+Prince Charles of Denmark was a Danish student. The Duke of Connaught
+wore the uniform of a military commander during the reign of Elizabeth,
+and the Duchess looked charming as Queen Anne of Austria in a
+picturesque gown with puffed sleeves. The Eastern Queens were
+magnificently arrayed and blazing with jewels. Lady de Trafford was
+Semiramis, Empress of Assyria, in a dress copied from a vase in the
+British Museum. Princess Henry of Pless was Queen of Sheba, in a robe
+and train of shot purple and gold tissue, elaborately embroidered with
+turquoises and other stones, and wore an Assyrian jewelled head-dress,
+decorated with a diamond bird and aigrette. Another Queen of Sheba was
+Lady Cynthia Graham, and there were two Cleopatras--Lady de Grey and
+Mrs. Arthur Paget. The husband of the latter accompanied her as Mark
+Antony. Lady Elcho was a Byzantine Queen, Miss Muriel Wilson was Queen
+Vashti, and the Countess of Dudley, as Queen Esther, wore a dress of
+white crepe, embroidered with gold and studded with amethysts,
+turquoises, and pearls.
+
+The Elizabethan Court was represented by Lady Tweedmouth as Queen
+Elizabeth, in a gown copied from a picture in the National Portrait
+Gallery. Her canopy was carried by four yeomen in uniforms of crimson,
+black, and gold, copied from Holbein's picture of "The Field of the
+Cloth of Gold," in the Hampton Court collection. Lord Tweedmouth was the
+Earl of Leicester, in slashed doublet and hose of ruby velvet and satin,
+enriched with gold embroidery. Lady Edmondstone, as Mary Queen of Scots,
+wore a dress of pale blue velvet, and tulle veil head-dress and ruff
+worked with pearls. She was attended by the Duchess of Hamilton, dressed
+in the character of Mary Hamilton, the Queen's favourite maid of honour.
+The Countess of Warwick, as Marie Antoinette, was beautifully dressed in
+a petticoat of rich white satin and a Court gown of English brocade,
+with a train of Royal blue velvet. The hair was powdered, and she was
+attended by four pages in white satin suits and three-cornered hats,
+bearing over her ladyship a canopy of blue velvet. This group included
+the Duchess of Sutherland, as Charlotte Corday in a gown of red _crepe
+de Chine_, a muslin fichu and cap, trimmed with point d'Alencon lace,
+and dagger at waist. Lady Westmorland made a lovely Hebe, and Lady
+Angela Forbes, as the Queen of Naples, wore an Empire gown of ivory
+duchesse satin, embroidered with silver and diamonds, and a train of
+lilac velvet, edged with jewelled embroidery and lined with satin. The
+head-dress consisted of a small jewelled crown and two white feathers.
+Among many other notable costumes should be mentioned the Marchioness of
+Tweedale's, as the Empress Josephine, as she appears in the Coronation
+picture at the Louvre, Paris; the Marchioness of Londonderry, as the
+Empress Marie Therese, of Austria, and the Marchioness of Zetland's, as
+Queen Henrietta Maria, wife of Charles I. of England; Viscountess
+Raincliffe, as the Empress Catherine II. of Russia, wore white satin,
+and her dress was an exact copy of the picture in the British Museum by
+Lambi. The Court gown of the Duchess of Portland, as Duchesse de Savoia,
+who headed the Venetian procession, was composed of white satin veiled,
+with lisse wrought with silver, partially covered by a silver cloth
+mantle, embroidered with pearls and diamonds, and diamonds and emeralds
+were introduced in the coiffure.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+STAGE AND FLORAL COSTUME.
+
+                  "All the world's a stage,
+  And all the men and women merely players,
+  They have their exits and their entrances,
+  And one man in his time plays many parts."
+
+
+Garrick was one of the first of our English actors to realize how much
+the success of a piece depended upon appropriate costume, and, on his
+taking the management of Drury Lane Theatre in 1747, at once turned his
+attention to this important branch of dramatic art. He refused to
+tolerate the absurdity of a heterogeneous mixture of the foreign and
+ancient modes, which had hitherto debased tragedies by representing, for
+instance, Greek soldiers in full-bottomed wigs, and the King of an
+Oriental Nation in trunk hose. The improvement, however, must have been
+very gradual, for Garrick is said to have played the part of Macbeth ten
+years later in a gold-laced suit of sky blue and scarlet; while Mrs.
+Yates as Lady Macbeth appeared in a hooped court petticoat of enormous
+dimensions, with tight-fitting pointed bodice and elbow sleeves, and her
+powdered hair dressed over a high cushion. Garrick's suits for the
+characters of King Lear and Hamlet also followed the fashions of the
+18th century, though he played Richard III. in a fancy dress designed
+with some regard to correctness of detail. Even during the present
+century, an equally absurd anachronism may be recorded. The late Mr.
+Charles Mathews made his first appearance in public, at the Theatre
+Royal, Richmond, as Richmond in Richard III., wearing the helmet and
+jacket of a modern light horse soldier.
+
+[Illustration: A TURKISH MAIDEN.]
+
+The first pantomime or harlequinade was played in England in 1717, and
+the earliest illustration of an English harlequin in the dress now
+familiar to us, is to be found in a sketch of Bartholomew Fair, dated
+1721. Of the characters of columbine, pantaloon, and clown, we have no
+contemporary drawings. Of the French ballet dancers of this period there
+are some carefully-executed plates in Planche's "Cyclopaedia of Costume."
+They are all represented in long, and sometimes in trained skirts. The
+first example of the abbreviated ballet skirt, reaching to the knee, is
+given in the portrait of an actress personating Le Zephyr, about the
+middle of the 18th century. The peasant costume of various nations has
+also been adapted to stage purposes with excellent effect.
+
+The late Hon. Lewis Wingfield devoted much time to designing the stage
+dresses of the Victorian era, and Madame Alias--who has also passed
+away--provided the costumes in Mr. Calvert's revival of Henry VIII., and
+was also responsible for dressing many of the Alhambra ballets and the
+plays at London and provincial theatres. Madame Bernhardt, Miss Ellen
+Terry, Mrs. Langtry, Sir Henry Irving, and the late Sir Augustus Harris
+have also brought their influence, money, and taste to bear on correct
+stage costume, with the result that we have had many sumptuously-dressed
+revivals and new plays, which otherwise might have sunk into oblivion.
+Such spectacles as are often to be seen at our leading Metropolitan
+theatres and music halls, if they fail to touch the public fancy, mean
+absolute and irretrievable ruin to their promoters; and when it is
+remembered that many thousands are spent annually in staging theatrical
+enterprises, before a single seat is booked, it will at once be seen
+what enormous sums must be involved in furthering dramatic interests.
+The public, who have for the last sixty years been catered for so
+generously, are sometimes apt to overlook the difficulties with which
+the scenic artist has to contend.
+
+It would be impossible within the circumscribed limit of a single volume
+to minutely describe even the most notable theatrical costumes of the
+last half century, but a few of the most effective floral costumes will
+be appended for the benefit of those who desire to introduce them into
+various entertainments.
+
+The steady patronage of Her Majesty the Queen and the Royal Family have
+done much to remove any prejudices which existed against the drama, and
+as a powerful auxiliary to education the stage is rapidly gaining
+ground. Dull, indeed, must the theatre-goer be if he leaves without
+having assimilated some valuable lesson. To Shakespeare we owe many
+ideal types of womanhood, all the more precious now that some of the
+weaker sex, in an insatiable desire for progress, sometimes neglect
+those lesser arts which in the past proved to them a shield and buckler.
+The classical and historical pieces allow us to live again in scenes
+which occurred when the world was young, and convince us, though the
+tastes of the people were simpler, human nature, with its passions and
+aspirations, has changed but little. Who can deny the moral influence of
+such plays as "The Sign of the Cross," "Hypatia," "The Daughters of
+Babylon," "Virginius," or those of the Robertson school, of which
+"Caste" and "Ours" are examples? A love of music is not considered a
+marked trait of the English nation, yet have not Italian and comic opera
+stimulated a desire for a concord of sweet sounds among all classes of
+the community? Such plays as "Patience" and the "Mikado" have developed
+our instinct for colour and form, and we are taught the value of
+industry and restraint when we watch well-trained actors, capable of
+controlling every gesture, and of charming us with their well-modulated
+voices. Our lives are cheered by viewing the comic side of things, and
+on our clothing and household possessions, the stage has also laid a
+refining hand.
+
+
+FLORAL COSTUMES.
+
+A POPPY.
+
+The bodice and skirt of red accordion, pleated _mousseline de soie_, the
+petals of the flower and belt in bright red silk. Large silk poppies
+appear on the shoulders and bust, and one of extra size is used for a
+head-dress. With this costume neat black shoes and silk stockings should
+be worn, and a palm-leaf fan covered with poppies and foliage should be
+carried.
+
+[Illustration: A POPPY.]
+
+LILY OF THE VALLEY.
+
+Corsage and skirt of white pleated Valenciennes lace mounted on green
+silk. A full berthe of the flowers. White lace hat entirely covered with
+these blooms, and fan to correspond.
+
+MOSS ROSE.
+
+Gown of pink satin, veiled with tulle and flecked with rose buds. A
+ruche of moss roses at the hem of the skirt and on the bodice. A Dolly
+Varden hat trimmed with moss roses and pink ribbon.
+
+WILD ROSE.
+
+Dress of shot pink and white satin, embroidered or painted with clusters
+and trails of wild roses and foliage. Skirt edged with full ruche of
+pink tulle studded with roses, and corsage trimmed to correspond.
+_Coiffure poudre_ dressed with small basket of roses and pink ribbon.
+
+WHITE ROSE.
+
+Gown with Watteau train of white satin edged with leaveless roses,
+chains of the same flowers carried across the front of the dress, and
+outlining the square-cut bodice, and elbow sleeves. Ruffles of lace. A
+wreath of white roses in the powdered hair, and a crook decorated with
+flowers and ribbon streamers.
+
+SUMMER ROSES.
+
+Gown of cream-coloured brocade, with design in shaded roses and foliage,
+trimmed with garland of roses of different tints embedded in tulle.
+Decollete corsage trimmed to correspond, and a damask rose worn in the
+hair.
+
+WILD FLOWERS.
+
+Dress of pale blue satin, veiled with green tulle. Trails of
+forget-me-nots, poppies, marguerites, buttercups, and grass depending
+from the waist-belt to edge of skirt, and bodice trimmed to correspond.
+A Leghorn hat garnished with wild flowers, grass, and blue ribbons.
+
+GARDENIA.
+
+Greek dress of white crepe de Chine, embroidered in classical design
+with silver. In front diagonal trails of gardenias and their dark
+foliage arranged from the right shoulder to left side of dress. The hair
+bound with silver bands. A shower bouquet to correspond.
+
+THE SHAMROCK.
+
+Gown of emerald green satin appliqued with velvet shamrocks of a darker
+shade. The stomacher a large trefoil in emeralds, and the short sleeves
+cut to resemble the Irish emblem. Corsage veiled with green tulle strewn
+with tiny shamrocks, and a coronet of the same in the hair.
+
+THE THISTLE.
+
+High dress of eau de nil satin. The skirt edged with a wreath of
+thistles, which are also embroidered in a bold design on the front of
+gown and bodice. Satin hat trimmed with thistles and ribbon, and black
+staff tied with thistles and ribbon streamers.
+
+DANDELION.
+
+Gown of yellow accordion, pleated chiffon finished on the skirt with
+trails of flowers from the waist to hem of the skirt, interspersed with
+the seed pods commonly known as blow-aways. The bodice of pleated
+yellow chiffon with dandelions across the berthe and clusters on the
+shoulders. A wreath and aigrette to correspond.
+
+IRIS.
+
+Dress of white satin, veiled with mauve chiffon, flecked with iris
+petals. Trails of mauve and white flowers tied with bows of satin in
+alternate shades, and carried across the skirt. Square cut corsage to
+correspond, and elbow sleeves. A muslin cap trimmed with the same
+flowers. Powdered hair.
+
+LILAC.
+
+Gown of cream satin brocaded with mauve and white lilac, Marie
+Antoinette, white chiffon fichu, and cap trimmed with clusters of shaded
+lilac and foliage. Elbow sleeves with chiffon ruffles. The white satin
+fan painted to correspond, and caught by a flower chatelaine. The hair
+dressed with the same flowers, and a twisted scarf of mauve and white
+chiffon.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's The Evolution of Fashion, by Florence Mary Gardiner
+
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