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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/34837-8.txt b/34837-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ca07a15 --- /dev/null +++ b/34837-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,3740 @@ +Project Gutenberg's Domestic French Cookery, 4th ed., by Sulpice Barué + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Domestic French Cookery, 4th ed. + +Author: Sulpice Barué + +Translator: Eliza Leslie + +Release Date: January 3, 2011 [EBook #34837] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DOMESTIC FRENCH COOKERY, 4TH ED. *** + + + + +Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + + + + +Transcriber's Note + +Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A list of corrections +is found at the end of the text. Inconsistencies in spelling and +hyphenation have been maintained. A list of inconsistently spelled and +hyphenated words is found at the end of the text. + + + + + DOMESTIC + FRENCH COOKERY, + + CHIEFLY + TRANSLATED FROM SULPICE BARUÉ. + + + BY MISS LESLIE, + AUTHOR OF "SEVENTY-FIVE RECEIPTS," &C. + + + FOURTH EDITION. + + + Philadelphia: + CAREY & HART--CHESTNUT STREET. + 1836. + + + + +Entered according to the Act of Congress, the 25th day of October, 1832, +by + +E. L. CAREY & A. HART, + +in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Eastern District of +Pennsylvania. + + +STEREOTYPED BY J. HOWE. + + + + +PREFACE. + + +The design of the following little book is to furnish receipts for a +select variety of French dishes, explained and described in such a +manner as to make them intelligible to American cooks, and practicable +with American utensils and American fuel. Those that (according to the +original work) cannot be prepared without an unusual and foreign +apparatus have been omitted; and also such as can only be accomplished +by the consummate skill and long practice of native French cooks. + +Many dishes have been left out, as useless in a country where provisions +are abundant. On this side of the Atlantic all persons in respectable +life can obtain better articles of food than sheeps' tails, calves' +ears, &c. and the preparation of these articles (according to the +European receipts) is too tedious and complicated to be of any use to +the indigent, or to those who can spare but little time for their +cookery. + +Also, the translator has inserted no receipts which contain nothing +different from the usual American mode of preparing the same dishes. + +Most of the French Cookery Books introduced into this country have +failed in their object, from the evident deficiency of the translators +in a competent knowledge of the technical terms of cookery and from the +multitude of French words interspersed through the directions, and which +cannot, in general, be comprehended without an incessant and troublesome +reference to the glossary. + +The translator of the following pages has endeavored, according to the +best of her ability, to avoid these defects, and has aimed at making a +book of practical utility to all those who may have a desire to +introduce occasionally at their tables good specimens of the French +culinary art. + +From these receipts she believes that many advantageous hints may be +taken for improvements in American cookery; and she hopes that, upon +trial, this little work may be found equally useful in private families, +hotels, and boarding-houses. + + _Philadelphia, September, 1832._ + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + SOUPS. + + Beef Soup Page 13 + Consommé, or Jelly Soup 14 + Pease Soup ib. + Maccaroni Soup ib. + Chestnut Soup 15 + Almond Soup ib. + Lobster Soup ib. + Oyster Soup 16 + Green Peas Soup ib. + + + GRAVIES, OR ESSENCES. + + Brown Gravy 17 + White Gravy ib. + Essence of Game ib. + To Clarify Gravies or Essences 18 + Velouté, or Velvet Essence ib. + + + SAUCES, &c. + + Bechamel 19 + Another Bechamel ib. + Drawn Butter ib. + Melted Butter, another way 20 + Cold Sauce for Fish ib. + Sauce for Vegetables ib. + Pungent Sauce, or Sauce Piquante 21 + Anchovy Sauce ib. + Curry Sauce ib. + Tomata Sauce ib. + Cucumber Sauce 22 + Bread Sauce ib. + Sauce Robert ib. + Shalot or Onion Sauce 23 + Universal Sauce ib. + Lobster Sauce ib. + Spinach for coloring Green 24 + Garlic Butter ib. + Hazelnut Butter 24 + Larding ib. + + + MEATS. + + Veal à la Mode 29 + Veal Cutlets ib. + Blanquette, or Fricassee of Veal 30 + Godiveau ib. + Calves' Liver baked ib. + Calves' Liver fried 31 + Veal Kidneys ib. + Grillades ib. + Liver Cake 32 + Sirloin of Beef ib. + Stewed Beef ib. + Beef Steaks 33 + Beef à la Mode ib. + Roasted Ham 34 + Fried Ham with Tomatas 35 + Roasted Tongue ib. + Baked Tongue 36 + Potted Tongue ib. + Leg of Mutton with Oysters 37 + Cutlets à la Maintenon ib. + Pork Cutlets ib. + Larded Rabbit 38 + Rabbits in Papers ib. + Pilau ib. + Veal Sweetbreads 39 + + + GAME AND POULTRY. + + A Salmi 43 + Cold Salmi ib. + Ragooed Livers 44 + A fine Hash ib. + Marinade of Fowls ib. + Fricassee of Fowls 45 + Fowls with Tarragon ib. + A stewed Fowl 46 + Chickens in Jelly ib. + Pulled Chickens 47 + Stewed Turkey, or Turkey en Daube 48 + Roasted Turkey ib. + Potted Goose 49 + Ducks with Turnips 50 + A Duck with Olives ib. + A Duck with Peas ib. + Turkey Puddings 51 + Baked Pigeons, or Pigeons à la Crapaudine ib. + Broiled Pigeons 52 + Pigeons Pear-fashion (Pigeons au poire) ib. + Pigeons with Peas ib. + Roasted Partridges 53 + Partridges with Cabbage ib. + A Partridge Pie ib. + Roasted Pheasants 54 + Broiled Quails 55 + Roasted Plovers ib. + + + FISH. + + Stewed Salmon 59 + Roasted Salmon ib. + Broiled Salmon 60 + Salt Cod Fish ib. + Broiled Fresh Mackerel 61 + Broiled Fresh Shad ib. + Hashed Fish ib. + Lobster Pie 62 + Oyster Loaves ib. + + + VEGETABLES. + + Stewed Lettuce 65 + Stewed Spinach ib. + Stewed Cucumbers 66 + Stewed Beets ib. + Stewed Carrots ib. + Stewed Cabbage ib. + Stewed Peas 67 + Stewed Beans ib. + Stewed Onions 68 + Onions stewed in Wine ib. + Stewed Mushrooms ib. + Stewed Potatoes 69 + Stewed Potatoes with Turnips ib. + Asparagus with Cream ib. + Potatoes stewed whole 70 + Fried Potatoes 70 + Fried Cauliflower ib. + Fried Celery 71 + Broiled Mushrooms ib. + Stuffed Cabbage (Choux farcis) 72 + Stuffed Potatoes ib. + Stuffed Cucumbers 73 + Stuffed Tomatas ib. + Cauliflowers with Cheese 74 + Ragooed Cabbage ib. + Ragooed Mushrooms 75 + + + PURÉES. + + Purée of Turnips 76 + Purée of Celery ib. + Purée of Onions ib. + Purée of Mushrooms 77 + Purée of Beans ib. + Purée of Green Peas 78 + + + EGGS, &c. + + Boiled eggs 79 + Fried Eggs ib. + Stewed Eggs 80 + Stuffed Eggs ib. + Egg Snow ib. + Pancakes 81 + Omelets ib. + Maccaroni 82 + Maccaroni Pie ib. + Blancmange in Eggs 83 + + + PASTRY, CAKES, &c. + + French Paste 87 + Puff-Paste ib. + Cream Tarts 88 + Almond Tarts ib. + Rissoles 89 + Almond Custards ib. + Vanilla Custards ib. + Chocolate Custards 90 + Coffee Custards ib. + Tea Custards 91 + Rice Pottage ib. + Apple Fritters ib. + Bread Fritters 92 + Rice Cake ib. + Potato Cake 93 + Sponge Cake, or Biscuit ib. + Croquettes 94 + Marguerites ib. + Wafers 95 + Gingerbread 96 + + + PREPARATIONS OF FRUIT, SUGAR, &c. + + An Apple Charlotte 99 + Apple Compote ib. + Compote of Pears 100 + Compote of Chestnuts ib. + Fried Apples 101 + Peach Marmalade ib. + Brandy Peaches ib. + Gooseberry Pottage 102 + Fruit Jellies 103 + Preserved Pumpkin 104 + Preserved Raspberries ib. + Orange Jelly 105 + Clarified Sugar ib. + Fruit in Sugar Coats 106 + Burnt Almonds ib. + Peppermint Drops 107 + Chocolate Drops ib. + Nougat 108 + Orgeat Paste 109 + + + LIQUEURS. + + Noyau 110 + Raspberry Cordial ib. + Rose Cordial 111 + Quince Cordial ib. + Lemon Cordial ib. + + + MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. + + French Coffee 115 + Coffee without boiling ib. + Chocolate 116 + Fine Lemonade 117 + Punch ib. + Convenient Lemonade ib. + French Mustard 113 + Potato Flour ib. + Cold Pickles ib. + Cornichons or Cucumber Pickles 119 + Fine Cologne Water 120 + + + + +PART THE FIRST. + + + + +SOUPS. + + +BEEF SOUP. + +The best soup is made of the lean of fine fresh beef. The proportion is +four pounds of meat to a gallon of water. It should boil at least six +hours. Mutton soup may be made in the same manner. + +Put the meat into cold water, with a little salt; set it over a good +fire; let it boil slowly but constantly, and skim it well. When no more +fat rises to the top, put in what quantity you please of carrots, +turnips, leeks, celery, and parsley, all cut into small pieces; add, if +you choose, a laurel-leaf, or two or three peach-leaves, a few cloves, +and a large burnt onion, to heighten the color of the soup. Grate a +large red carrot, and strew it over the top. Then continue to let it +boil, gently but steadily, till dinner time. Next to the quantity and +quality of the meat, nothing is more necessary to the excellence of soup +than to keep the fire moderate, and to see that it is boiling all the +time, but not too fast. + +Have ready in the tureen some toasted bread, cut into small squares; +pour the soup over the bread, passing it through a sieve, so as to +strain it thoroughly. Some, however, prefer serving it up with all the +vegetables in it. + +The soup will be improved by boiling in it the remains of a piece of +cold roast beef. Soups made of veal, chickens, &c. are only fit for +invalids. + +After you have strained out the vegetables, you may put into the soup +some vermicelli (allowing two ounces to each quart), and then boil it +ten minutes longer. + + +CONSOMMÉ, OR JELLY SOUP. + +Into two quarts of cold water, put four pounds of the lean of the best +beef-steaks, and a large fowl cut into pieces, four large carrots, four +onions, four leeks, a bunch of sweet herbs (parsley, thyme, sweet +marjoram, sweet basil, and chives), tied up with a laurel-leaf, or two +peach-leaves, and four cloves; add a little salt and pepper. Boil it +gently for eight hours, skimming it well; then strain it. + + +PEASE SOUP. + +Take two quarts of dried split peas, the evening before you intend +making the soup, and putting them into lukewarm water, let them soak all +night. In the morning, put the peas into a pan or pot with three quarts +of cold water, a pound of bacon, and a pound of the lean of fresh beef. +Cut up two carrots, two onions, and two heads of celery, and put them +into the soup, with a bunch of sweet herbs, and three or four cloves. +Boil it slowly five or six hours, till the peas can no longer be +distinguished, having lost all shape and form; then strain it, and serve +it up. + + +MACCARONI SOUP. + +First make some good beef soup (without any vegetables), and when it is +sufficiently boiled, strain it through a sieve. Take some maccaroni, in +the proportion of half a pound to two quarts of soup. Boil it in water +until it is tender, adding to it a little butter. Then lay it on a sieve +to drain, and cut it into small pieces. Throw it into the soup, and boil +all together ten minutes or more. Grate some rich cheese over it before +you send it to table. + + +CHESTNUT SOUP. + +Having made some beef soup without vegetables, strain it, and put in a +pint of peeled chestnuts for each quart of soup. Boil it again till the +chestnuts have gone all to pieces, and have become a part of the liquid. + +A still better way is, to roast or bake the chestnuts first, (having cut +a slit in the shell of each,) then peel them, and throw them into the +soup ten minutes before you take it from the fire. + + +ALMOND SOUP. + +Take half a pound of shelled sweet almonds, and two ounces of shelled +bitter almonds, or peach-kernels. Scald them, to make the skins peel off +easily, and when they are blanched, throw them into cold water. Then +drain and wipe them dry. Beat them (a few at a time) in a marble mortar, +adding as you beat them, a little milk and a little grated lemon-peel. + +Have ready two quarts of rich milk, boiled with two sticks of cinnamon +and a quarter of a pound of sugar. Stir the almonds gradually into the +milk, and let them have one boil up. Prepare some slices of toasted +bread, take out a little of the soup and soak them in it. Then lay them +in the bottom of a tureen, and pour the soup over them. Grate on some +nutmeg. + + +LOBSTER SOUP. + +Having boiled a large lobster, extract all the meat from the shell. Fry +in butter some thin slices of bread, put them into a marble mortar, one +at a time, alternately with some of the meat of the lobster, and pound +the whole to a paste till it is all done. Then melt some butter in a +stew-pan, and put in the mixed bread and lobster. Add a quart of boiling +milk, with salt, mace, and nutmeg to your taste. Let the whole stew +gently for half an hour. + + +OYSTER SOUP. + +Take two quarts of oysters; drain them, and cut out the hard part. Have +ready a dozen eggs, boiled hard; cut them in pieces, and pound them in a +mortar alternately with the oysters. Boil the liquor of the oysters with +a head of celery cut small, two grated nutmegs, a tea-spoonful of mace, +and a tea-spoonful of cloves, with two tea-spoonfuls of salt, and a +tea-spoonful of whole pepper. When the liquor has boiled, stir in the +pounded eggs and oysters, a little at a time. Give it one more boil, and +then serve it up. + +Salt oysters will not do for soup. + + +GREEN PEAS SOUP. + +Make a good beef soup, with the proportion of four pounds of lean beef +to a gallon of water. Boil it slowly, and skim it well. In another pot +boil two quarts of green peas, with a large bunch of mint, a little +salt, and three or four lumps of loaf sugar. When they are quite soft, +take them out, strain them from the water, and mash them in a cullender +till all the pulp drips through. Then stir it into the soup after you +have taken it up and strained it. Prepare some toasted bread cut into +small squares, lay it in a tureen, and pour the soup over it. + +When you toast bread for soups, stews, &c. always cut off the crust. + + + + +GRAVIES, OR ESSENCES. + + +BROWN GRAVY. (JUS.) + +Put into a sauce-pan, or skillet, five or six onions, and as many +carrots cut into small pieces, with about two pounds of scraps of beef, +in which there must be none of the fat. Pour over them a pint of water. +Cover the pan, and begin with a brisk fire. When the gravy has become +brown, add a little boiling water (or broth if you have it), with a +tea-spoonful of salt, three or four cloves, and a bunch of sweet herbs. +Diminish the fire, and let the gravy stew gently for an hour and a half. +Occasionally prick the meat with a fork, and press it with the back of a +spoon to extract its juices. Then strain it through a sieve, and let it +stand a while before you use it. + +In addition to the beef, you may put in pieces of cold goose, or cold +duck. + + +WHITE GRAVY. (COULIS.) + +Butter the bottom of a sauce-pan, and put in two pounds of scraps of +veal, and, if you have it at hand, some cold fowl, or cold turkey; add +two white onions, and four or five blades of mace; pour over it a pint +of boiling water, or broth; cover the pan, and set it over a slow fire +for five or six hours, pricking and pressing the meat with a fork and +spoon. Strain it through a sieve, and if it is too thin, set it again +over the fire, to stew a while longer. + + +ESSENCE OF GAME. + +Take scraps of any kind of game (partridges, pheasants, hares, &c.), and +also four calves feet, and a few small pieces of ham. Put them all into +a stew-pan, with half a bottle of white wine, two carrots, two onions, +and a bunch of sweet herbs. Stew them over a slow fire for four hours, +and when they are reduced to a jelly, moisten it with four +table-spoonfuls of hot water, or broth, stirred in gently. Strain it +through a sieve, and then clear it by stirring in the whites of three +eggs slightly beaten. + + +TO CLARIFY GRAVIES, OR ESSENCES + +Having strained your gravy through a sieve, beat slightly the whites of +three eggs, and stir them into it. Place it again on the fire, and stir +it till it comes to a boil; then take it from the fire, and put it away +to settle. Strain it then through a napkin, and you will have a +transparent jelly excellent for making fine sauces. + + +VELOUTÉ, OR VELVET ESSENCE. + +Take half a pound of scraps of veal, the same quantity of pieces of +fowls, and twelve or fifteen mushrooms; stew them slowly in butter, and +then add two onions, half a carrot, and a bunch of sweet herbs cut +small, three table-spoonfuls of flour, three of boiling water or broth, +and salt, pepper, and nutmeg to your taste. Let it stew an hour and a +half, and then strain it. + + + + +SAUCES, &c. + + +When sauces are finished with eggs, use only the yolks, and mix them +first with but a spoonful or two of the sauce; mix them off the fire. +Set on the pan again for two or three moments, but do not let it boil +after the eggs are in. + + +BECHAMEL. + +Put into a sauce-pan a quarter of a pound of butter sprinkled with +flour, three or four onions, and a carrot cut small, a little parsley, +and a dozen mushrooms. Set it over the fire until the butter is melted, +and then add three table-spoonfuls of flour stirred into a pint of cream +or rich milk, with salt, pepper, and nutmeg to your taste. Stir it till +it boils; then reduce the fire, and let the bechamel stew gently for +three quarters of an hour. When it is done, strain it, and then stir in +the yolks of three eggs. + + +ANOTHER BECHAMEL. + +Cut into dice, or small square pieces, half a pound of bacon or ham, a +carrot, a turnip, and two onions. Put them into a sauce-pan, with two +large spoonfuls of veal-dripping; add a little butter (about two +ounces), and two large spoonfuls of flour. Moisten it with boiling +water, or broth. Add nutmeg, cloves, thyme, parsley, salt, and pepper to +your taste; also a laurel-leaf. Let it stew for an hour. Strain it, and +before you serve it up, squeeze in a little lemon-juice. + + +DRAWN BUTTER. + +Put into a small pan a table-spoonful of flour and a tumbler of water, +with salt to your taste, and a little pepper. Stir it till it boils. +Then withdraw it from the fire, and add two ounces of butter and a few +drops of cold water, with a little lemon-juice, or vinegar. Set it on +the stove, or near the fire, and keep it warm till it is wanted. + +You may thicken it while boiling with mushrooms, cut small; or after it +is done with hard eggs chopped fine, pickled cucumbers chopped, or +capers. + + +MELTED BUTTER--_another way_. + +Put into a sauce-pan a quarter of a pound of butter. When quite melted +over the fire, throw in a large spoonful of flour, and add a half pint +of boiling water, and salt to your taste. Boil it a few minutes, and +then put in a tea-spoonful of cold water. If intended as sauce for a +pudding, stir in at the last a glass of white wine, and half a grated +nutmeg. + + +COLD SAUCE FOR FISH. + +Cut small, and pound in a mortar, equal proportions of parsley, chervil, +tarragon, chives and burnet, with two yolks of hard-boiled eggs. Pass +these ingredients through a cullender, and then mix them on a plate with +four table-spoonfuls of sweet oil, two of vinegar, and two of mustard. +Use a wooden spoon. + + +SAUCE FOR VEGETABLES--SUCH AS ASPARAGUS, &c. + +Take the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs; mash them on a plate with the +back of a wooden spoon, and mix them with three table-spoonfuls of +vinegar, a shalot or small onion minced fine, and a little salt and +Cayenne pepper. Add three table-spoonfuls of olive oil, and mix the +whole very well. + + +PUNGENT SAUCE. (SAUCE PIQUANTE.) + +Put into a saucepan a half-pint of vinegar, a branch of thyme, two or +three sprigs of sweet marjoram, a leaf of laurel, a clove of garlic, a +shalot or a little onion, and Cayenne pepper and salt to your taste. Add +a glass of broth or gravy. Stew the whole slowly till it is reduced to +two thirds of the original quantity: then strain it. + + +ANCHOVY SAUCE--FOR FISH. + +Cut the flesh of three anchovies into small shreds, and steep them in +vinegar for half an hour or more. Then mince them fine, and throw them +into a saucepan with a little butter rolled in flour. Add pepper and +mustard to your taste. Pour in sufficient vinegar to cover it, and let +it boil gently for a quarter of an hour. Strain it, and squeeze in a +little lemon-juice before you serve it up. + + +CURRY SAUCE. + +Put into a sauce-pan two ounces of butter and a table-spoonful of +curry-powder (or of powdered turmeric if more convenient), half a grated +nutmeg, half a spoonful of saffron, and two spoonfuls of flour. Add +sufficient boiling water or broth to cover it, and let it stew a quarter +of an hour. Strain it, stir in a little more butter, and serve it up. + + +TOMATA SAUCE. + +Bake ten tomatas, with pepper and salt, till they become like a +marmalade. Then add a little flour or grated bread crumbs, and a little +broth or hot water. Stew it gently ten minutes, and before you send it +to table add two ounces of butter and let it melt in the sauce. + + +CUCUMBER SAUCE. + +Put into a sauce-pan a piece of butter rolled in flour, some salt, +pepper, and one or two pickled cucumbers minced fine. Moisten it with +boiling water. Let it stew gently a few minutes, and serve it up. + + +BREAD SAUCE. + +Take four ounces of grated stale bread; pour over it sufficient milk to +cover it, and let it soak about three quarters of an hour, or till it +becomes incorporated with the milk. Then add a dozen corns of black +pepper, a little salt, and a piece of butter the size of a walnut. Pour +on a little more milk, and give it a boil. Serve it up in a sauce-boat, +and eat it with roast wild fowl, or roast pig. + +Instead of the pepper, you may boil in it a hand full of dried currants, +well picked, washed, and floured. + + +SAUCE ROBERT. + +Put into a sauce-pan a quarter of a pound of butter, with a spoonful of +flour. Simmer them till of a fine brown color. Mince half a dozen large +onions, and a large slice of cold ham. Put them into the pan, with +another piece of butter, and a very little broth or warm water. Skim the +sauce well, and let it stew gently for twenty minutes. Before you serve +it up, stir in a table-spoonful of lemon-juice or vinegar, and a +tea-spoonful of mustard. This sauce is used chiefly for fresh pork, or +white poultry. + + +SHALOT OR ONION SAUCE. (SAUCE RAVIGOTE.) + +Take a handful of sweet herbs and the same quantity of shalots or little +onions, and cut them up small. Put them into a sauce-pan, with some +vinegar, salt, pepper, and sufficient broth or warm water to cover them. +Let them boil gently for a quarter of an hour. Take the sauce from the +fire and set it on the stove, or on the hearth, and stir in (till it +melts) a piece of butter rolled in flour, or a spoonful of olive oil. + + +UNIVERSAL SAUCE. + +Take a pint of good broth, or a pint of drawn butter. Stir into it a +glass of white wine, and half the peel of a lemon grated. Add a laurel +leaf, or two or three peach-leaves, and a spoonful of vinegar. Let the +mixture simmer on a few coals or on hot ashes, for five or six hours or +more, and it will be good to pour over either meat, poultry, or fish, +and will keep several days in a cool place. + + +LOBSTER SAUCE. + +The lobster being boiled, extract the meat from the shell, and beat it +in a mortar. Rub it through a cullender or sieve, and put it into a +sauce-pan with a spoonful of velouté (or velvet essence) if you have it, +and one of broth. Mix it well, and add a piece of butter, some salt, and +some Cayenne pepper. Stew it ten minutes, and serve it up, to eat with +boiled fresh fish. + + +SPINACH FOR COLORING GREEN. + +Take three handfuls of spinach, and pound it in a mortar to extract the +juice. Then put it into a sauce-pan and set it over a slow fire. When it +is just ready to boil, take it off and strain it. By stirring in a small +quantity of spinach-juice, you may give any sauce a green color. + + +GARLIC BUTTER. + +Take two large cloves of garlic and pound them to a paste in a mortar, +adding, by degrees, a piece of butter the size of an egg. You may with a +little of this butter give the taste of garlic to sauces. Some persons +like a piece of garlic butter on the table, to eat with roast meat. + + +HAZELNUT BUTTER. + +Having scalded and blanched some hazelnuts, pound them to a paste in a +mortar, adding gradually a small quantity of butter. + +This is good to eat with wild fowl, or to flavor the most delicate +sauces. + + +LARDING. + +Larding with slips of fat bacon greatly improves the taste and +appearance of meat, poultry, game, &c. and is much used in French +cookery. + +For this purpose, you must have a larding-pin (which may be purchased at +the hardware stores); it is a steel instrument about a foot in length, +sharp at one end, and cleft at the other into four divisions which are +near two inches long, and resembling tweezers. + +Bacon is the proper meat to lard with; the fat only is used. Cut it into +slips not exceeding two inches in length, half an inch in breadth, and +half an inch in thickness, and smaller if intended for poultry; they +will diminish in cooking. Put these slips of bacon (one at a time) into +the cleft or split end of the larding-pin. Give each slip a slight twist +and press it down hard into the pin, with your fingers. Then run the pin +through the meat or fowl (avoiding the bones), and when you draw it out +on the under side it will have left the slip of bacon sticking in the +upper side. Take care to arrange the slips in regular rows and at equal +distances; have them all of the same size, and let every one stick up +about an inch from the surface of the meat. If any are wrong, take them +out and do them over again. + +Fowls and birds are generally larded on the breast only. To lard +handsomely and neatly, practice and dexterity are requisite. + +Cold poultry may be larded with slips of the fat of cold boiled ham, and +when not to be cooked again, it may be made to look very tastefully. + +The slips for cold poultry should be very small, scarcely thicker than a +straw. + + + + +PART THE SECOND. + + + + +MEATS. + + +VEAL À LA MODE. + +Rub a fillet of veal all over with salt, and then lard it. Make a +seasoning of chopped sweet-herbs, shalots, mushrooms, pepper, salt, and +powdered nutmeg, and mace. Moisten it with sweet oil, and cover the veal +all over with it. Put the veal into a tureen, and let it set for several +hours or all night. Then take it out, covered as it is with the +seasoning, and wrap it in two sheets of white paper, well buttered, and +roast or bake it. When it is quite done, take off the paper, and scrape +off all the seasoning from the veal. Put the seasoning into a sauce-pan +with the gravy, the juice of half a lemon, a piece of butter rolled in +flour, and a little salt. Give it a boil, skim it well, and pour it over +the veal. + + +VEAL CUTLETS. + +Make a seasoning of grated bread, minced ham, chopped parsley, salt, +pepper, and chopped mushrooms if you have them. Mix with it some yolk of +egg. Cut the veal into small thin slices, rub them all over with lard, +and then spread the seasoning over both sides. Wrap up each cutlet +carefully in white paper, oiled or buttered. Bake them slowly for three +quarters of an hour, and serve them up in the papers. + + +BLANQUETTE OR FRICASSEE OF VEAL. + +Take the remains of a cold roast fillet, or loin of veal. Cut it into +small thin pieces. Put them into a stew-pan with a piece of butter +rolled in flour, salt, pepper, a few small onions minced, a bunch of +sweet-herbs chopped, and one or two laurel or peach-leaves. Mix all +together. Pour in a little warm water, and let it boil gently five +minutes or more. When you take it off, stir in some lemon-juice and some +yolk of egg slightly beaten. + + +GODIVEAU. + +Take a large piece of fillet of veal, free from fat or skin. Mince it +small, and then pound it in a mortar till it is a smooth paste. +Afterwards rub it through a cullender or sieve. + +Soak some slices of bread in warm milk, and rub the bread also through a +sieve. There must be an equal quantity of bread and veal. Take the same +proportion of butter, and beat it in a mortar with pepper, salt, nutmeg, +and chopped parsley to your taste. Then put all together. Beat two or +three eggs till very light, and add them gradually to the mixture. Make +it into round balls or into long rolls, and fry them in butter. Or you +may put it into a pie (without a lid) and bake it. + +Godiveau is a very fine stuffing for poultry or wild fowl. + + +CALVES' LIVER BAKED. + +Lard the liver with bacon, and let it lie three or four hours in a +covered tureen with a seasoning of parsley, shalots, laurel and thyme +chopped small, a little pepper and salt, and two table-spoonfuls of +sweet oil. Turn it several times. Then wrap it up in thin slices of +bacon or cold ham, and bake or roast it about an hour and a quarter. Add +to the gravy the yolk of an egg, and some minced onions and chopped +sweet-herbs. + + +CALVES' LIVER FRIED. + +Cut the liver into thin slices, and put them into a frying-pan with a +piece of butter rolled in flour, some minced onions and a glass of white +wine, salt, pepper, and a little mace. Let it fry about ten minutes. + + +VEAL KIDNEYS. + +Cut the kidneys into thin slices; having first soaked them in cold +water, rub them with a little salt and pepper. Then sprinkle them with +flour, and a little parsley and onions minced fine. Fry them in butter, +adding a glass of champagne or other white wine. + +Mutton kidneys may be done in the same manner. + +Another way of dressing kidneys is to split them in half, season them +with salt and pepper, lard them, and broil them. + + +GRILLADES. + +Cut slices from either a fillet of veal, a round of fresh beef, a leg of +mutton, or a leg of pork. Do not let them exceed the thickness of half +an inch. Put them into a stew-pan with a sufficient proportion of oil, +pepper, salt, and a little parsley and onion chopped fine. Stew them in +a very little water till half done. Then prepare some sheets of white +paper rubbed with oil or butter. Take out the slices of meat (covered +with this seasoning) and grate some bread crumbs over them. Fasten up +each slice in a piece of paper, and broil them on a gridiron over a slow +fire. Serve them up in the paper. + + +LIVER CAKE. + +Take a pound and a half of grated bread, and two pounds of liver (either +calves' or pigs') a few onions, a little sage, some mushrooms, and a +laurel leaf, all chopped fine. Mince the liver also, and mix it with the +other ingredients, adding salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Butter a mould or a +very deep dish. Put the mixture into it, and let it bake an hour and a +half in a moderate oven. When done, turn it out. + +It is eaten cold, cut in slices. + + +SIRLOIN OF BEEF. + +Rub your beef all over with salt, and lard the lean part of it with +slips of fat bacon. Cover the meat with sheets of oiled or buttered +paper. Roast it in proportion to its size, between three and four hours. + +Serve it up with its gravy, and have some onion sauce in a boat. + + +STEWED BEEF. + +Take some slices of cold roast beef that has been under-done. Put them +into a stew-pan with a little gravy or broth, or if you have neither, +some warm water. Add a piece of butter rolled in flour, some capers, or +some pickled cucumbers chopped small, a little lemon-juice or vinegar, +and some salt and pepper. Let the beef simmer slowly, but do not allow +it to boil. Have ready some slices of bread (of the same size as the +slices of beef) and fry them in butter. Put some tomata sauce in the +bottom of a dish. Lay on it in a pile a few slices of beef and slices of +fried bread alternately. Pour the gravy over it, and send it to table. + +Any other sort of meat may be done in the same manner. + + +BEEF STEAKS. + +Cut slices of beef from the sirloin. Trim them neatly, and take off the +bone and the skin. To make them tender beat them on both sides with a +wooden beetle or with the end of a rolling-pin. Rub them with salt and +pepper. Warm a sufficient quantity of butter, and when it is soft spread +it over the steaks. Then sprinkle them with onions minced very fine. +Cover them up in a dish, and let them lie an hour or more in the +seasoning. Then broil them over a clear fire. Slice some cold boiled +potatoes, fry them in butter, and lay them round the steaks. + + +BEEF À LA MODE. + +Take a round of fresh beef, and beat it well to make it tender. Rub it +all over with salt and pepper. Lard it on both sides with slips of +bacon. Lay it in a deep pan with some slices of bacon, a calves-foot, a +few onions, a carrot cut in pieces, a bunch of sweet herbs cut small, +one or two laurel leaves, some cloves, and a beaten nutmeg. Pour in a +half-pint of red wine, a half-pint of white wine, and a spoonful of +brandy. Let it stew slowly for at least six hours. Then take it out; +strain the gravy, pour it over the meat, and serve it up. + +A fillet of veal may be done in the same manner. + + +ROASTED HAM. + +Let your ham soak all night in cold water, and then trim it handsomely, +having first taken out the bone by loosening the meat all round it, with +the point of a knife. Tie a broad tape round the ham to keep it in +shape. Then put it into a large pan with some sliced onions, some sprigs +of parsley, two or three laurel leaves, and a bottle of white wine. +Cover it, and let it lie in the seasoning twenty-four hours. Then roast +it, and baste it with the seasoning. A large ham will require four or +five hours to roast. A little before it is done, take off the skin and +sprinkle the ham with grated bread crumbs. + +While the ham is roasting, stew together the bone and the trimmings and +scraps till they come to a jelly, which you must strain through a sieve. +When you take the ham from the spit (having removed the tape that has +been fastened round it) glaze it all over with the jelly, laid on with a +brush or a quill feather. Serve it up with the seasoning or marinade +under it. + +If the ham is to be eaten cold, you may cover it all over the glazing +with cold boiled potatoes grated finely, so that it will look like a +large cake covered with icing. Ornament it with slices of boiled carrot, +beets, &c. scolloped and laid on the potatoes, in handsome forms, so as +to look like red and yellow flowering. Stick a large bunch of double +parsley in the centre. + +A ham boiled in the usual manner may be ornamented in the same way; +first extracting the bone, and making the meat into a circular shape. + +Instead of a mere bunch of double parsley, you may stick in the centre +of the ham a nosegay of flowers, formed of different culinary +vegetables, and cut into proper shape with a sharp pen-knife. All these +vegetables must be raw. The flowers intended to represent red roses must +be made of beets, the white roses of turnips, and the marigolds or other +deep yellow flowers must be cut out of carrots. The pieces of turnips +and beets must first be made with the pen-knife into the form of a ball, +on the surface of which the rose-leaves must be cut. The carrots may be +cut into flat slices, and then notched to look like marigolds or +chrysanthemums. Stick each flower on the end of a small wooden skewer, +which will answer for the stalk, but which must be concealed by thick +bunches of double parsley tied on so as to represent the green leaves. +Tie all the skewers together at the bottom with a pack-thread, and the +whole will have the effect of a handsome nosegay when placed in the +middle of the ham. + +A round of cold à-la-mode beef may be ornamented with a bunch of these +flowers. Let the beef itself be covered all over with parsley, so as to +resemble a green bank. + + +FRIED HAM, WITH TOMATAS. + +Fry some slices of cold boiled ham. Then fry some tomatas, allowing one +tomata to each slice of meat. Lay the tomatas on the ham, shake some +pepper over them, and send them to table. + + +ROASTED TONGUE. + +Having soaked a large smoked tongue all night in cold water, parboil it +in a very little warm water with a slice of bacon, a bunch of sweet +herbs, and an onion or two stuck with cloves. When it is nearly done, +take it out, drain it, and lard it with large slips of bacon on the +upper side, and small pieces on the under side. Then put it on the spit +and roast it half an hour, and serve it up with pungent sauce (Sauce +Piquante.) + + +BAKED TONGUE. + +Take a cold boiled tongue and cut it into slices. Put in the bottom of a +deep dish a little vinegar, with some capers, parsley and shalots minced +fine, and some grated bread, all mixed together. Lay the slices of +tongue upon this, and cover them with some more of the same seasoning. +Then grate some bread all over the top. Moisten the whole by pouring in +a little warm water. Put the dish into a stove moderately heated, or set +it on a slow furnace. Bake it till brown. + + +POTTED TONGUE. + +Boil two smoked tongues. Skin them and cut them into thin slices. Put +the slices (a few at a time) into a mortar and beat them to a paste, +adding gradually a pound of butter. Then prepare an equal quantity of +the lean of stewed veal, and pound that also in the mortar (a little at +a time) with the same proportion of butter. Then make the veal and the +tongue into lumps, and put them alternately into your stone pots, +pressing them together so as to look like red and white marble. Have a +layer of veal at the top. Press the whole down very hard. Fill up the +pots with butter, boiled and skimmed and poured on warm. Tie them up +closely with parchment, and keep them in a cold but dry place. + +When you use it, cut it in slices. + + +LEG OF MUTTON WITH OYSTERS. + +Rub a leg of mutton all over with salt, and put it on the spit to roast +with a clear fire, basting it with its own gravy. When it is nearly +done, take it up and with a sharp knife make incisions all over it, and +stuff an oyster into every hole. Then put it again before the fire, to +finish roasting. + +Before you serve it up, skim the gravy well, and give it a boil with a +glass of red wine. + + +CUTLETS À LA MAINTENON. + +Cut a neck of mutton into chops, leaving a bone to each, but scraping +the end of the bone quite clean. Mix together some grated bread, and +some marjoram and onion chopped fine. Season it with pepper, salt, and +nutmeg. Having melted some butter, dip each chop into it, and then cover +them on both sides with the seasoning. Butter some half-sheets of white +paper, and put the cutlets into them, leaving the end of each bone to +stick out of the paper like a handle. Lay them on a gridiron, and broil +them for about twenty minutes on clear lively coals. Serve them up in +the papers. + +Make a sauce of four shalots or little onions chopped fine, some gravy, +a little pepper and salt, and a spoonful of red wine. Boil this sauce +for a minute, and send it up in a boat. + + +PORK CUTLETS. + +Mince together some onions, parsley, and a laurel leaf. Season it with +pepper, salt, and cloves. Cut your pork into thin steaks, and lay them +in this seasoning for five or six hours. Then broil or fry them with +the seasoning on them, and serve them up with sauce Robert, or with +tomata sauce. + + +LARDED RABBIT. + +Lard a fine large rabbit, and put it into a stew-pan with a slice or two +of cold ham, a bunch of sweet-herbs, a table-spoonful of sweet oil, and +a gill of white wine. Stew it slowly, and, when it is quite done, strain +the gravy and pour it over the rabbit. + + +RABBITS IN PAPERS. + +Take two young rabbits; cut off the limbs and put them aside. Cut the +flesh from the body, and chop it very fine, mixing it with shalots, +parsley, and mushrooms chopped also, and, if you choose, a clove of +garlic. Season it with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and moisten it with +sweet oil. Lay the legs of the rabbit in this mixture, for three or four +hours. Then take out separately each leg covered with the seasoning, lay +on it a thin slice of bacon or cold ham, and wrap it in a sheet of white +paper well buttered. Broil the limbs slowly on the gridiron, and serve +them up hot in the papers. + +Fowls may be done in the same manner. Ducks also. + + +PILAU. + +Take half a dozen slices of the lean of a leg of mutton, or of fillet of +veal. Put them into a stew-pan with six large onions, a carrot cut in +pieces, and some parsley, with pepper, salt, and nutmeg to your taste. +Add a tea-spoonful of saffron, a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a +little boiling water. Let it stew for an hour, and skim it well. + +Have ready a pound of rice boiled soft and drained. Mix with it a large +piece of butter. Put some rice in the bottom of a deep dish, and lay on +it first the seasoning, and then the slices of meat in a pile. Keep the +remainder of the rice over it, and set it on the stove or in the oven +for ten minutes. + + +VEAL SWEETBREADS. + +Take three sweet-breads, and soak them three or four hours in milk. Then +wipe them dry, and lard them. Make a seasoning of sweet-herbs and +mushrooms chopped fine, a quarter of a pound of cold ham or bacon +scraped or minced, salt, pepper, and nutmeg to your taste, and a +table-spoonful of sweet-oil. Mix the seasoning very well together, and +put it into a stew-pan with the sweet-breads, a piece of butter rolled +in flour, a little water or broth, and the same quantity of wine. Stew +it about ten minutes. Then take out the sweet-breads, lay them in a deep +dish, pour the seasoning over them, and let them get cold. Next prepare +some cases of white paper, oil them, and cover the inside with grated +bread. Put a sweet-bread into each paper-case, with some of the +seasoning at bottom and top. Close the cases, put them in an oven, and +bake them long enough to color the sweet-breads. Serve them up in the +papers. + +Set the gravy over the fire, and when it simmers take it off, and stir +in the yolk of an egg slightly beaten. Keep it covered for a few +minutes, and then serve it up in a boat. + + + + +PART THE THIRD. + + + + +GAME AND POULTRY. + + +A SALMI. + +Cut off the flesh from the bodies of a pair of cold pheasants, +partridges or wild-ducks, or an equal quantity of small birds. Beat it +in a mortar, moistening it frequently with a little broth or gravy. Then +pass the whole through a cullender or sieve. Put it into a stew-pan with +a piece of butter about the size of a walnut, rolled in flour; half a +pint of port wine or claret; two whole onions, and a bunch of +sweet-herbs. Let it boil half an hour, and then stir in two +table-spoonfuls of sweet oil, and the juice of a lemon. + +In another pan stew the legs and wings of the birds, but do not let them +boil. Stew them in butter rolled in flour, seasoned with pepper and +salt. Cut some slices of bread into triangular pieces, and fry them in +butter. Lay them in the bottom of a dish, put the legs and wings upon +them, and then the other part of the stew. Garnish the edge with slices +of lemon, handsomely notched with a knife. + +If the Salmi is made of partridges, use oranges instead of lemons for +the juice and garnishing. + + +COLD SALMI. + +This is prepared on the table. Take the liver of a roast goose, turkey, +or ducks. Put some of the gravy on a plate, cut up the liver in it, and +bruise it with the back of a spoon or a silver fork. Add three +tea-spoonfuls of olive oil, the juice of a lemon, and cayenne pepper and +salt to your taste. Mix it well. When the bird is cut up, eat with it +some of this sauce. + + +RAGOOED LIVERS. + +Take the livers of half a dozen fowls or other poultry, a dozen +mushrooms, a bunch of sweet herbs, a clove of garlic or a small onion, a +table-spoonful of butter rolled in flour. Add a glass of white wine, and +sufficient warm water to keep the ingredients moist. Season it with salt +and pepper. Stew all together, and skim it well. Before you send it to +table, stir in the yolks of two or three beaten eggs, and two spoonfuls +of cream. + + +A FINE HASH. + +Take any cold game or poultry that you have. You may mix several kinds +together. Some sausages, of the best sort, will be an improvement. Chop +all together, and mix with it bread crumbs, chopped onions and parsley, +and the yolks of two or three hard-boiled eggs. Put it into a sauce-pan +with a proportionate piece of butter rolled in flour. Moisten it with +broth, gravy, or warm water, and let it stew gently for half an hour. + +Cold veal or fresh pork may be hashed in the same manner. + + +MARINADE OF FOWLS. + +Take a pair of fowls, skin and cut them up. Wash them in lukewarm water. +Drain them, and put them into a stew-pan with some butter. Season them +to your taste with salt, pepper, and lemon-juice. Add parsley, onions, +and a laurel leaf. Moisten them with warm water, and let them stew +slowly on hot coals for two or three hours. Clear them from the +seasoning and drain them. Then lay them in a dish, and grate bread +crumbs over them. Whip some white of egg to a stiff froth, and cover +with it all the pieces of fowl. + + +FRICASSEE OF FOWLS. + +Skin and cut up your fowls, and soak them two hours in cold water, to +make them white. Drain them. Put into a stew-pan a large piece of +butter, and a table-spoonful of flour. Stir them together till the +butter has melted. Add salt, pepper, a grated nutmeg, and a bunch of +sweet-herbs. Pour in half a pint of cream. Put in the fowls, and let +them stew three quarters of an hour. Before you send them to table, stir +in the yolks of three beaten eggs, and the juice of half a lemon. + +The Fricassee will be greatly improved by some mushrooms stewed with the +fowl. + +To keep the fricassee white, cover it (while stewing) with a sheet of +buttered paper laid over the fowls. The lid of the stew-pan must be kept +on tightly. + + +FOWLS WITH TARRAGON. + +Pick two handfuls of tarragon (the leaves from the stalks) and chop half +of it fine with the livers of the fowls. Mix it with butter, salt, and +whole pepper. Stuff your fowls with it. Lard them and wrap them in +papers buttered or oiled. + +Melt some butter rolled in flour, and stir into it the rest of the +tarragon. Moisten it with a little water or milk. Stir in the yolks of +two beaten eggs, and the juice of half a lemon. Serve it up as gravy. +Strew over the fowls some sprigs of fresh tarragon. + + +A STEWED FOWL. + +Take a large fowl, and put it into a stew-pan with two ounces or more of +butter, some thin slices of cold ham, a little parsley and onion chopped +fine, and some nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Then pour in half a tumbler of +white wine. You may add, if you choose, six table-spoonfuls of boiled +rice, which you must afterwards serve up under the fowl and ham. Let it +stew slowly for two hours, with just sufficient water to keep it from +burning. + +Before you send it to table, go all over the fowl with a feather or +brush dipped in yolk of egg. You may add to the stew a dozen small +onions, to be laid round the fowl with the slices of ham. + + +CHICKENS IN JELLY. + +Cold chickens, pigeons, and game, look very handsome in jelly. To make +this jelly, take four calves-feet (with the skin on) and boil them to a +strong jelly with an ounce of isinglass and three quarts of water, +carefully skimming off the fat. The calves-feet must be boiled the day +before the jelly is wanted, and when it is cold scrape off all the +sediment that adheres to it. Then boil the jelly with the addition of +the whites and shells of six eggs, the juice of three lemons, three or +four sticks of cinnamon, half a pound of loaf-sugar, and a pint of +Malaga or other sweet wine. Let it boil hard for five or six minutes, +but do not stir it. Strain it several times through a flannel bag into a +deep white pan, but do not on any consideration squeeze or press the +bag, as that will entirely spoil the transparency of the jelly. After +it has done dripping through the bag, take out all the ingredients (as +they are now of no farther use) and wash the bag clean. Then pour the +jelly into it again, and let it strain. Repeat this till it is perfectly +clear and bright; washing the bag every time. Sometimes (but not often) +it will be clear at the first straining. + +Put a little of the jelly into the bottom of a deep dish or bowl, and +set it in a cold place. When it has congealed and is firm, lay your +chickens on it with the breasts downwards. Having kept the remainder of +the jelly warm, to prevent its congealing too soon, pour it over the +fowls. Let it stand all night or till it is perfectly firm. Then set +your dish or bowl in warm water for a moment, to loosen the jelly. Lay +over it the dish in which you intend to serve it up, and turn it out +carefully. If you fear that you will not be able to turn it out without +breaking the jelly, you may prepare it at the beginning in a deep china +dish fit to send to table. + +If you put too much water to the calves-feet, the jelly will never be +firm, till it is boiled over again with more isinglass. The generality +of cooks are in the habit of putting too much water to every thing, and +should be cautioned accordingly. + + +PULLED CHICKENS. + +Boil a pair of fowls till they are about half done. Then skin them, and +pull the flesh from the bones in pieces about a finger in breadth and +half a finger in length. Take a few table-spoonfuls of the liquor they +were boiled in, and mix it with half a pint of boiling cream. Put it +into a stew-pan with a piece of butter rolled in flour; pepper, salt, +and nutmeg; a little chopped parsley; and a table-spoonful of white +wine. Put in the pieces of chicken, and stew them slowly till quite +done. + + +STEWED TURKEY, OR TURKEY EN DAUBE. + +Take a large turkey; lard it and stuff it as for roasting. Then cover it +all over with a seasoning made of salt, pepper, nutmeg, and sweet-herbs, +parsley and onions, minced fine. Put it into a stew-pan, with some +slices of bacon, one or two calves-feet, some onions and carrots, one or +two laurel leaves, a few cloves, a beaten nutmeg, salt, pepper, and, if +you choose, a clove of garlic. Pour in a pint of water, and a pint of +white wine or brandy. + +Put on the cover of the stew-pan, and lay round its edge on the outside +a wet cloth, which must be kept wet. Stew it slowly for five or six +hours or more, and turn the turkey when about half done. When it is +finished, withdraw the fire, and skim and strain the gravy. Serve up the +turkey with the gravy under it. + +A goose done this way is very fine. + +A round of beef may be stewed in the same manner. It will be the better +for lying all night in the seasoning, and it should be put in to stew +early in the morning. + + +ROASTED TURKEY. + +Rub the turkey all over with salt. Then lard it. You may stuff it with +sausage-meat; or with chestnuts previously boiled, peeled, and mashed. +Or, you may make a force-meat stuffing of the liver, heart, and gizzard, +chopped fine, and mixed with chopped parsley, onions, sweet-herbs, +grated bread, butter, lemon-juice, grated lemon-peel, and the yolk of +one or two eggs. + +A turkey of moderate size will require at least two hours to roast. +Thicken the gravy with yolk of egg stirred in just before you send it to +table. + +A cold roast turkey should be larded and served up with large spoonfuls +of stiff currant jelly dropped all over it. + +You may roast a goose in the same manner. + + +POTTED GOOSE. + +Take several fine geese; rub them with salt, and put into each a handful +of sage leaves. Roast them about an hour. Do not baste them, but save +all the fat in the dripping-pan, emptying it as it is filled. When you +have taken the geese from the spit, cut off the legs and wings, and cut +the flesh from the breast in slices. Set them away to get cold. + +Put the fat that has dripped from the geese into a kettle, with about +half as much lard as there is of the dripping. Boil it ten minutes. Have +ready a tall stone jar, or more than one if necessary. Lay two legs of +the geese side by side in the bottom, and sprinkle them with salt and +pepper; placing, if you choose, a laurel leaf on each. Then put in two +wings, and season them also. Next a layer of the slices cut from the +breast, seasoned in the same manner. When the pots are almost full of +the goose, fill them up to the top with the boiling fat, and set them +away till the next day to get cold. The upper layer must be covered at +least an inch thick with the fat. + +Tie up the pots with covers of parchment wet with brandy, and keep them +in a cold but not in a damp place. + +In France great numbers of geese are fattened for this purpose. + + +DUCKS WITH TURNIPS. + +Stew some turnips with butter, salt, and a little sugar. When soft, take +them out and drain them. Cut up your ducks, season them, and put them +into the same pan that has held the turnips. Stew the ducks with a piece +of butter rolled in flour, a little water, and a bunch of sweet-herbs +tied up. When the ducks are nearly done, put the turnips in again, and +let all stew slowly together for ten minutes, skimming it well. Withdraw +the sweet-herbs before you send the dish to table. + + +A DUCK WITH OLIVES. + +Having larded your duck, stew it whole, with butter, pepper, salt, and a +little water. Take half a pint of olives, cut them in half and take out +the seeds or stones. When the duck is nearly done, throw in the olives, +and let all stew together about five minutes or more. Serve up the duck +with the olives round it. + + +A DUCK WITH PEAS. + +Stew the duck whole, with some lard and a little salt, till about half +done. Then take it out and drain it. Put into the stew-pan a large piece +of butter rolled in flour. When it has melted, pour in a quart of +shelled green peas, and add a bunch of mint, or other sweet herbs, and +some pepper and salt. Then put in the duck, adding a little warm water. +Let it stew slowly till quite done, skimming it well. + + +TURKEY PUDDINGS. + +Mince thirty small onions and mix them with an equal quantity of bread +crumbs that have been soaked in milk. Chop an equal quantity of the +flesh of cold turkey. Mix all together, and pound it very well in a +mortar. Pass it through a cullender, and then return it to the mortar +and beat it again, adding gradually the yolks of six hard eggs, and a +pint of cream or half a pound of butter. Season it to your taste with +salt, mace and nutmeg. + +Have ready some skins, nicely cleaned as for sausages. Fill the skins +with the mixture, and tie up the ends. Then simmer your puddings, but do +not let them boil. Take them out, drain them, and put them away to get +cold. + +When you wish to cook them for immediate use prick them with a fork, +wrap them in buttered paper, and broil them on a gridiron. + +Similar puddings may be made of cold fowls. + + +BAKED PIGEONS, OR PIGEONS À LA CRAPAUDINE. + +Split the pigeons down the back. Take out the livers, which you must +mince with bacon and sweet-herbs, adding to them the livers of fowls or +other birds, if you have them, and bacon in proportion. Or you may +substitute sausage-meat. Add bread-crumbs soaked in milk, and the yolks +of two eggs or more, with salt, pepper, mace and nutmeg to your taste. +Mix all together, and stuff your pigeons with it, and then glaze them +all over with beaten white of egg. Place them in a buttered pan, and set +them in the oven. Bake them half an hour. Before you serve them up, +squeeze some lemon-juice into the gravy. + + +BROILED PIGEONS. + +Split your pigeons and flatten them. Make a seasoning of sweet oil, +salt, pepper, chopped shalots, and chopped parsley. Rub this seasoning +all over the pigeons. Then cover them with grated bread crumbs. Wrap +each in a sheet of white paper, and broil them on a slow fire. Serve +them up with a sauce made of minced onions, butter rolled in flour, +lemon-juice or vinegar, and salt and pepper. + + +PIGEONS PEAR-FASHION. (PIGEONS AU POIRE.) + +First, bone your pigeons. To do this, take a sharp knife, and slipping +it under the flesh carefully loosen it from the bone, and do not tear +the skin. Begin at the upper part of the bird, just above the wings, +scrape gradually down, and finish at the legs. Then take hold of the +neck, and draw out the whole skeleton at once. Make a good force-meat or +stuffing (as directed for baked pigeons), and fill them with it, making +them each into the shape of a large pear. Fasten them with skewers. +Glaze them all over with yolk of egg, and then roll them in grated +bread-crumbs. Stick in the top of each, the lower end of the leg, to +look like the stem of a pear. Lay them in a buttered dish (but not so +close as to touch each other) and bake them. Make a good gravy, +thickened with the yolk of an egg, and some butter rolled in flour. + + +PIGEONS WITH PEAS. + +Take two or four pigeons (according to their size), and truss them with +the feet inwards. Put them into a stew-pan with a piece of butter +rolled in flour, and two or three slices of cold ham, or bacon, and a +little water. Let them stew gently till brown. Then add a quart of green +peas, and a bunch of mint, with another piece of butter, and a little +warm water or milk. Let them stew slowly, and when they are quite done, +stir in some more butter. Serve up the pigeons with the peas under them. + + +ROASTED PARTRIDGES. + +Lard the partridges, and put in the inside of each a laurel leaf, and an +orange cut in pieces. If you omit the laurel leaf, do not peel the +orange, but put in the pieces with the rind on them. These must be taken +out before the partridges are sent to table. Be careful not to roast +them too much. + + +PARTRIDGES WITH CABBAGE. + +Having trussed the partridges, put them into a stew-pan with a large +piece of butter rolled in flour; a quarter of a pound of bacon or ham +cut into dice; a bunch of sweet-herbs, and a little warm water. Put into +another stew-pan a fine Savoy cabbage, with a pint of the dripping of +beef or pork. Let it stew slowly till nearly done. Then take out the +cabbage and drain it, and put it into the stew-pan to cook with the +partridges for half an hour. Lay the cabbage under the partridges when +you send them to table. + + +A PARTRIDGE PIE. + +Take three pair of large partridges and truss them as you do fowls. Rub +them all over with a mixture of pepper, salt, powdered mace and +powdered nutmeg. Take a pound of fat bacon and two pounds of lean veal, +and cut them into small pieces. Put them into a stew-pan with a quarter +of a pound of butter. Add a bunch of sweet-herbs, and a few shalots or +small onions, all minced fine. Stew them till the meat seems to be quite +done, and then put it into a cullender to drain. Afterwards put the meat +into a mortar, season it with pepper, salt, nutmeg and mace, and pound +it to a smooth paste; moistening it at times with some of the liquor in +which it was stewed. + +Prepare a rich paste, and spread a sheet of it over the bottom of a +large and deep buttered dish. Put in the partridges, side by side, pour +in a little water, add a piece of butter, and cover them with the +pounded meat. Lay on the top a few slices of cold ham. Roll out a thick +piece of paste for the lid, and cover the pie with it; cutting the edges +into square notches, and folding over the half of each notch. Ornament +the lid with leaves and flowers made of paste. Bake it three hours, and +see that the oven is not so hot as to scorch it. When done, glaze it all +over with white of egg. + +This pie will be greatly improved by the addition of some truffles. If +you cannot procure truffles, mushrooms cut in pieces may be substituted. + + +ROASTED PHEASANTS. + +Make a stuffing of fresh raw oysters, chopped, and seasoned with pepper, +salt, nutmeg, and mace. Mix with it some sweet oil, some yolk of egg, +and fill the pheasants with this stuffing. Cover the pheasants with thin +slices of bacon or cold ham; wrap them in buttered sheets of white +paper, and roast them. Serve them up with oyster sauce. + + +BROILED QUAILS. + +Split the quails down the back, and flatten them. Put them into a +stew-pan with sweet-oil, salt, pepper, and a leaf or two of laurel. +Cover them with thin slices of bacon or ham, and let them stew slowly on +hot coals. When nearly done, take them out, strew over them grated +breadcrumbs, and broil them on a gridiron. + +Put into the stew-pan a little warm water, and scrape down whatever +adheres to the sides; skim it, and let it come to a boil. Pour this +gravy into the dish in which you serve up the quails, and lay the bacon +round it. + + +ROASTED PLOVERS. + +Scald and pick your plovers, but do not draw them. Lard them, and lay +slices of toasted bread in the dripping-pan to receive what falls from +the birds while roasting. Serve them up with the toast under them. + +Woodcocks and snipes are roasted in the same manner. + + + + +PART THE FOURTH + + + + +FISH. + + +STEWED SALMON. + +Pour a half-pint of white wine into a stew-pan, with some sliced +carrots, onions, and mushrooms; pepper, salt, and mace; and a bunch of +chopped sweet-herbs. Lay in your piece of fresh salmon, and pour over it +some more wine. Stew it slowly for an hour or more. When done, serve it +up with the sauce that is under it, and also with some sauce Mayonnaise +in a boat. + +The sauce Mayonnaise is made as follows:-- Put into a small tureen the +yolks of two beaten eggs, a little salt and Cayenne pepper, and a very +little vinegar. Stir and mix it well; then add (a drop at a time) two +table-spoonfuls of sweet-oil, stirring all the while. When it is well +mixed, stir in gradually some more vinegar. To stir and mix it +thoroughly will require a quarter of an hour. It will then be very +delicate. + +You may color it green by adding a little juice of spinach, or some +chopped parsley or tarragon at the first, when you put in the eggs. + + +ROASTED SALMON. + +A large piece of fresh salmon is very fine roasted on a spit, first +rubbing it with salt, and then basting it all the time with sweet-oil or +butter. + +For roasted salmon, make a sauce as follows:--Put into a sauce-pan a +little parsley, a shalot or small onion, a few mushrooms, and a piece of +butter rolled in flour, pepper, salt, and a gill or more of white wine. +Let these ingredients boil for half an hour; then strain them through a +sieve, and mix with the sauce a table-spoonful of olive-oil. + + +BROILED SALMON. + +Cut several slices of fresh salmon; soak them an hour in a mixture of +sweet-oil, chopped parsley, and shalots minced fine, with salt and +pepper. Then take each slice with the seasoning on it, and wrap it in +buttered paper. Broil the slices on a gridiron. When thoroughly done, +take off the paper, and serve up the salmon with melted butter and +capers. + +Any other large fish may be dressed like salmon. + + +SALT COD-FISH. + +Let it soak twenty-four hours in cold water, which must be changed +several times, and every time you change it pour in a wine-glass of +vinegar, which will greatly improve the fish. Boil the cod till +thoroughly done; then cut the flesh into very small slips; mix it with +parsley, butter, vinegar, Cayenne pepper, nutmeg, and mace; add to the +mixture some boiled onions, mashed potatoes, and the yolks of two or +three beaten eggs. Put the whole mixture into a deep dish, and make it +up into the form of a thick round cake. Go all over it with a bunch of +feathers, or a small brush, dipped in sweet-oil; and then grate bread +crumbs all over it. Set it in the oven till brown. Serve it up, +surrounded with triangular or three-cornered slices of toast, dipped in +melted butter. + +Halibut may be dressed in the same manner, putting salt in the water +when you boil it, and also in the seasoning. + +Fresh cod may be cooked in the same way. + + +BROILED FRESH MACKEREL. + +Split your mackerel down the back; season it with pepper and salt; cover +it all over with oil or butter, and let it lay for half an hour or more; +then broil it, pouring on it whatever of the seasoning may be left in +the dish. + +Serve it up, with sauce in a boat. Let the sauce be of melted butter, +with parsley, and a little lemon-juice, or vinegar. + +Or you may broil the mackerel whole, having first seasoned it as above, +and wrapped it in oiled paper. + + +BROILED FRESH SHAD. + +Having split the shad in half, cover it all over with a seasoning of +oil, pepper, salt, chopped onions, parsley, and laurel-leaf. Let it lie +an hour or two in the seasoning. Then broil it, covered with the +seasoning, and adding a piece of butter. + +Or you may cook the shad whole. Make a stuffing of the above +ingredients, with the addition of some grated bread; put the stuffing +into the shad, and bake it, first pouring over it a glass of white wine. + +Any large fresh fish may be baked in the same manner. + + +HASHED FISH. + +Take any sort of cold fish, bone it, and then chop it with the remains +of a cold omelet, and some mushrooms if you have them. Mix with it some +chopped parsley, a little butter, a slice of bread soaked in milk, and +the yolks of two or three hard-boiled eggs chopped fine. Mix all +together, and season with pepper and salt. Stew it gently with a little +water for half an hour. + + +LOBSTER PIE. + +Having boiled your lobster, take out the meat from the shell, season it +with salt, mustard, Cayenne pepper, and vinegar, and beat it well in a +mortar. Then stir in a quarter of a pound of butter, the yolks of two +beaten eggs, and two ounces or more of grated bread crumbs. Make some +puff-paste, put in the mixture, and cover it with a lid of paste +ornamented with leaves or flowers of the same. Bake it slowly. + + +OYSTER LOAVES. + +Have ready some small loaves or rolls of bread. Cut a round piece out of +the top of each, and scoop out the crumb or soft part. Take the liquor +of your oysters, put into it the crumbs, with a little chopped celery, +and a large piece of butter. As soon as it boils, pour the liquor over +the oysters, and this will cook them sufficiently. Fill your loaves with +the oysters, putting into each a tea-spoonful of cream. Lay on again the +piece of crust that was cut out of the top of each loaf or roll, and set +them in the oven for a few minutes. + + + + +PART THE FIFTH. + + + + +VEGETABLES. + + +STEWED LETTUCE. + +Wash a fine lettuce, and tie it up with a string passed several times +round it, to keep the leaves together. Put it in boiling water, with a +little salt. When the lettuce has boiled, take it out and press it to +squeeze out the water, but be careful not to break it. + +Having mixed, in a stew-pan, a large spoonful of butter with a spoonful +of flour, add half a pint of cream or rich milk; put in the lettuce, +with a very little salt, half a nutmeg grated, and two lumps of sugar. +Let it boil ten minutes. Take out the lettuce, stir the yolks of two +beaten eggs into the sauce, and serve all up together. + + +STEWED SPINACH. + +Take young spinach, and throw it into boiling water with some salt. When +it has boiled, take it out, drain it, and lay it in cold water for a +quarter of an hour. Then drain it and squeeze it. Cut it small, and put +it into a stew-pan, with a large piece of butter. After it has stewed +slowly for a quarter of an hour, add a spoonful of flour, with a little +salt, sugar, and nutmeg. Moisten it with cream or milk, and let it +simmer again over a slow fire for another quarter of an hour. Then serve +it up, and lay on it slices of toasted bread dipped in melted butter. + + +STEWED CUCUMBERS. + +Lay your cucumbers in cold water for half an hour; then pare them, and +cut them into slips about as long as your little finger; take out the +seeds; then boil the cucumbers a few minutes, with a little salt. Take +them out, and drain them well. + +Put into a stew-pan some butter rolled in flour, and a little cream. +Stew your cucumbers in it for ten minutes. When you take them off, stir +in the yolks of two beaten eggs; and if you choose, a tea-spoonful of +vinegar. + + +STEWED BEETS. + +Boil some beets. Then peel and cut them into slices. Stew them for a +quarter of an hour with a piece of butter rolled in flour, some onion +and parsley chopped fine, a little vinegar, salt and pepper, and a clove +of garlic. + + +STEWED CARROTS. + +Scrape and wash your carrots. Scald them in boiling water; then drain +them, and cut them into long slips. Stew them in milk or cream, with a +little salt, pepper, and chopped parsley. When done, take them out, stir +into the sauce the yolks of one or two eggs, and a lump or two of +loaf-sugar, and pour it over the carrots. + + +STEWED CABBAGE. + +Having washed your cabbage, cut it in four, and throw it into boiling +water with some salt. When it has boiled till quite tender, take it up, +squeeze out the water, and put the cabbage to drain. Then lay it in a +stew-pan with butter, salt, pepper, nutmeg, a spoonful of flour, and +half a pint of cream. Stew it a quarter of an hour, and pour the sauce +over it when you send it to table. + +Cauliflowers may be stewed in the same manner. + + +STEWED PEAS. + +Take two quarts of green peas; put them into a stew-pan with a quarter +of a pound of butter, a bunch of parsley, and the heart of a fine +lettuce cut in pieces, a bunch of mint, three or four lumps of sugar, +some salt and pepper, and a very little water. Stir all together, set it +on coals and let it stew gently for an hour or an hour and a half. +Having taken out the parsley, add a piece of butter rolled in flour; and +stir in the yolks of two eggs just before you send it to table. + +You may, if you choose, put in the lettuce without cutting it in pieces; +tie it up with the bunch of parsley and two onions, and withdraw the +whole before you dish the peas. Serve up the lettuce in another dish. + + +STEWED BEANS. + +Put into a stew-pan some parsley and some chives or little onions +chopped fine, some mushrooms (if you have them) chopped also, and a +large piece of butter rolled in flour. Add a glass of white wine and a +little water. Stir all together, and then put in as many beans as will +fill a quart measure when strung and cut small; having first soaked them +a quarter of an hour in cold water. Let them stew gently on hot coals +till quite tender. Just before you serve them up, stir in the yolks of +two eggs. You may substitute for the wine a tumbler of cream, but it +must be stirred in at the last. + + +STEWED ONIONS. + +Boil some small onions with salt, and then drain them. Lay them in a +stew-pan with a piece of butter, and sprinkle them with flour, pepper +and salt. Pour on them some cream, and then turn every onion with a +spoon. Stew them ten minutes, and serve them up. + + +ONIONS STEWED IN WINE. + +Boil twenty or thirty onions a quarter of an hour with a bunch of sweet +herbs, some salt, a few cloves, and a laurel leaf. Then take out the +onions, and put them into a stew-pan with some salt, a piece of butter +rolled in flour, and a pint of red wine. Stew them another quarter of an +hour, and serve them up garnished with pieces of toast dipped in the +sauce. + + +STEWED MUSHROOMS. + +Having peeled and washed your mushrooms, drain them, and stew them with +butter, pepper, salt, and a little chopped parsley, adding a little +flour and warm water. When they are done, stir into the sauce the yolks +of two or three eggs, and some cream. Toast and butter a slice of bread. +Lay it on the dish under the mushrooms, and pour the sauce over them. + +Put in a small onion with the mushrooms, that you may know by its +turning almost black, whether there is a poisonous one among them. If +the onion turns black, throw away all the mushrooms. + + +STEWED POTATOES. + +Boil eight or nine large potatoes with a little salt, and then peel and +cut them in slices. Put into a stew-pan a large piece of butter, a +spoonful of flour, some salt, and half a grated nutmeg. Add a half-pint +of cream, and mix all together. When this sauce boils, put in your +sliced potatoes, and let them stew a quarter of an hour. + + +STEWED POTATOES WITH TURNIPS. + +Pare and boil an equal quantity of turnips and potatoes. When done, +drain and mash them. Melt some butter in a stew-pan, and add to it a +little mustard. Stew the mixed potatoes and turnips in it, with a small +quantity of hot milk, for about ten minutes. + + +ASPARAGUS WITH CREAM. + +Wash and boil four or five bundles of asparagus. Have ready a pint of +cream, or a pint of milk, with the yolks of six eggs stirred into it. +Take four large rolls of bread, and cut a round piece out of the top of +each. Scoop out the crumb from the inside of the rolls, and put it into +the cream with the heads of the asparagus, of which you must save out a +sufficient number (with a small piece of the stalk left on each) to +stick the rolls with. Make holes in the top-pieces of the rolls. + +Fry the rolls in butter. Put the most of the asparagus heads into the +cream mixed with the crumb of the rolls, and simmer it awhile over a +slow fire. When the rolls are fried, fill their cavities with the +mixture. Stick the tops with the remainder of the asparagus, and lay +them on the rolls. + +Asparagus may be simply boiled with salt, and served up on toasted bread +dipped in oil, and eaten with oil sauce. + + +POTATOES STEWED WHOLE. + +Boil two dozen small new potatoes, with some salt. Put into a stew-pan a +piece of butter rolled in flour, half the peel of a lemon grated, half a +nutmeg grated, some salt, two or three lumps of sugar, and three +tea-spoonfuls of sweet oil. Lay the potatoes in this mixture, squeeze +over them the juice of a lemon, and let them stew gently about ten +minutes. + + +FRIED POTATOES. + +Make a batter with the yolks of three eggs, a little salt, a +table-spoonful of oil, a table-spoonful of brandy, and sufficient flour +or grated bread to thicken it. Have ready some large cold potatoes cut +in slices. Dip each slice in the batter, and fry them in butter. + + +FRIED CAULIFLOWER. + +Wash a fine large cauliflower, and cut it into quarters. Having boiled +some water with salt, throw the cauliflower into it, and boil it till +you can nip it easily with your fingers. Take it out and drain it. Then +put it into a pan with salt, pepper and vinegar, and let it lie half an +hour, turning it frequently. + +Make the following batter, which must be prepared half an hour or more +before it is wanted, that it may have time to rise. Take three +table-spoonfuls of flour, three beaten eggs, a table-spoonful of butter +melted in a little warm water, a spoonful of sweet oil, and a spoonful +of brandy. Stir all together; and if you find it too thin, add a little +more flour; cover it, and let it set half an hour. Then beat to a stiff +froth the whites of the eggs, and stir them hard into the batter. Dip +your quarters of cauliflower into this mixture, and fry them of a fine +light brown. + +When the cauliflower is done, let it remain in the pan a quarter of an +hour before you send it to table. Lay fried parsley round it. + +Broccoli may be fried in the same manner. + + +FRIED CELERY. + +Take ten or twelve fine stalks of celery. Cut them into pieces about six +inches long, and lay them an hour in salt and water. Drain them, spread +them on a dish, and sprinkle them with powdered sugar. Make a batter of +eggs, milk, and grated bread; allowing four eggs to a pint of milk. Dip +each piece of celery into the batter, and fry them in butter. + + +BROILED MUSHROOMS.[71-*] + +Peel, wash, and drain your mushrooms, and then cut them in pieces. Make +a square case of white paper, and butter it well. Fill it with the +mushrooms mixed with butter, salt, and pepper. Broil them on the +gridiron over a clear fire, and serve them up in the paper. + +If you choose, you may mix with the mushrooms some chopped onion and +sweet-herbs. + + [71-*] In gathering mushrooms, take only those that are of a pale + pink color underneath, and a dull white or pearl color on the top. + Those that are perfectly white above, or whose under side is white, + yellow, or any color but pale pink, are unfit to eat, and poisonous. + + After being gathered awhile, the pink tinge changes to brown, but it + always appears on the good ones while in the ground. + + +STUFFED CABBAGE. (CHOUX FARCIS.) + +Take a large cabbage, with a hard full head; put it into boiling water +with some salt, and let it boil from five to ten minutes. Then take it +out and drain it. Cut off the stalk close to the bottom, so that the +cabbage may stand upright on the dish, and then carefully take out the +inside leaves or heart; leaving the outside leaves whole. + +Chop fine what you have taken out of the inside, and chop also some cold +ham and veal, or cold chicken. Likewise four eggs boiled hard. Mix +together the chopped eggs, the ham and veal, the cabbage heart, and some +grated bread, adding salt and pepper. Fill the cabbage with this +stuffing, and tie tape round it to keep the outside leaves together. +Then put it into a deep stew-pan, with a quarter of a pound of butter +rolled in flour, and an onion stuck full of cloves. Let it simmer over a +slow fire for two hours or more. + +When it is done, take off the tape, set the cabbage upright in a dish, +and pour melted butter over it. + +Lettuce may be done in the same manner. + + +STUFFED POTATOES. + +Take eight very large potatoes, wash and pare them. Make a small slit or +incision in each of them, and scoop out carefully with a knife as much +of the inside as will leave all round a shell about the thickness of two +cents. Then make a force-meat of the substance you have taken out of the +inside, mixing it with two minced onions, a small piece of minced cold +ham or pork, about two ounces of butter, and a little parsley; adding +the yolks of two or three beaten eggs. Mix the stuffing thoroughly, by +pounding it in a mortar. + +Butter the inside of the potatoes, and fill them with this mixture. Then +having buttered a large dish, lay your potatoes in it separately. Bake +them half an hour, or till they are of a fine brown. + +When you mash potatoes, moisten them with milk or cream, adding a little +salt. Heap them up on the dish in the form of a pyramid. Smooth the +sides of the pyramid with the back of a spoon, and brown it by holding +over it a red-hot shovel. + + +STUFFED CUCUMBERS. + +Cut off one end of each of the cucumbers, and scoop out all the seeds +with a fork. Then pare them. Prepare a stuffing made of bread crumbs, +cold meat minced, salt, pepper, and sweet-herbs. Fill your cucumbers +with it, and fasten on with a skewer the pieces you have cut off from +their ends. Sow up every one separately in a thin cloth. Put them into a +pan with butter, flour, a bunch of sweet-herbs, and a little warm water. +Let them stew very slowly for about two hours, and then take them out. +Remove the cloths, and serve up the cucumbers with the sauce under them. + + +STUFFED TOMATAS. + +Scoop out the inside of a dozen large tomatas, without spoiling their +shape. Pass the inside through a sieve, and then mix it with grated +bread, chopped sweet-herbs, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Stew it ten +minutes, with a laurel leaf, or two peach leaves. Remove the leaves, and +stuff the tomatas with the mixture, tying a string round each to keep +them in shape. Sprinkle them all over with rasped bread-crust. Set them +in a buttered dish, and bake them in an oven. Take off the strings, and +serve up the tomatas. + +Egg-plants may be cooked in the same manner. + + +CAULIFLOWERS WITH CHEESE. + +Having washed and boiled your cauliflowers in salt and water, drain them +well. Make a white sauce in a small pan, with butter rolled in flour, +and a little milk. Pour some of this sauce into the bottom of a dish +that will bear the fire. Chop your cauliflower, and spread a layer of it +on the sauce. Then cover it with a layer of rich cheese, grated and +slightly sprinkled with pepper. Then spread on the remainder of the +cauliflower, and then another layer of peppered cheese, and so on till +your dish is nearly full. Pour over it the rest of the sauce. Prepare +two or three handfuls of grated bread, mixed with a little of the grated +cheese. Spread it all over the surface of the last layer of cauliflower, +and smooth it with the back of a spoon. Allow a quarter of a pound of +cheese to each cauliflower. + +Put the dish in a slow oven about a quarter of an hour before you serve +it up, and bake it till a brown crust forms on the outside. Clear off +the butter from the edges of the dish, and send it to table hot. + +Broccoli may be done in the same manner. + + +RAGOOED CABBAGE. + +Wash a fine savoy cabbage, and boil it for half an hour in salt and +water. Then take it out, drain it, and lay it for ten minutes in cold +water. Afterwards squeeze and drain it well, and take out the stalk. +Chop the cabbage slightly, and put it into a stew-pan with a quarter of +a pound of butter, and add two table-spoonfuls of flour. Season it with +salt and pepper, and moisten it with a little water. Let it stew slowly +for an hour, and then serve it up. + +Cauliflowers or broccoli may be done in the same manner. + + +RAGOOED MUSHROOMS. + +Take a pint of fresh mushrooms. When they are peeled and the stalks cut +off, put the mushrooms into a stew-pan with two table-spoonfuls of +vinegar, a sprig or two of parsley, a small onion, a few chives chopped +fine, some salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Let it boil gently for a +quarter of an hour. Before it goes to table, stir in the yolks of two +eggs. + +If the onion has turned blue or black, throw the whole away, as it is +evident that some poisonous ones are among the mushrooms. + + + + +PURÉES. + + +The word Purée cannot be exactly translated, as there is nothing in the +English language that gives precisely the same idea. In French it is +generally applied to a certain manner of cooking vegetables that +converts them into a substance resembling marmalade, which, when the +coarser parts are strained out, leaves a fine smooth jelly. + +It is served up with meat. + + +PURÉE OF TURNIPS. + +Wash and pare some of the finest turnips. Cut them into small pieces, +and let them lie for half an hour in cold water. Then take them out and +drain them. Put them into a stew-pan, with a large piece of butter and +some salt and pepper. Moisten them with a little broth or boiling water. +Let them stew over a very slow fire, for five or six hours, stirring +them frequently. Then rub them through a sieve, and serve up the jelly +with roast meat. + + +PURÉE OF CELERY. + +Wash your celery, peel it, and stew it slowly for three or four hours, +with salt, and a very little water. Then pass it through a sieve, and +season it with pepper, salt, and nutmeg to your taste. + + +PURÉE OF ONIONS. + +Take thirty onions; cut them in slices and put them into a stew-pan, +with a little salt, pepper, and a grated nutmeg. Let them stew slowly +till they are of a fine brown color, and then add a table-spoonful of +broth or warm water. + +When it has attained the proper consistence, strain it and serve it up. + + +PURÉE OF MUSHROOMS. + +Peel a pint of mushrooms, cut them in pieces, and put them in a pan with +as much cold water as will keep them from burning. Throw in with them a +small onion to test their goodness; as, if there is a bad or poisonous +one among them, the onion will turn of a bluish black while cooking. In +that case, throw them all away. + +Stew them slowly till they have lost all shape and have become an +undistinguishable mass. Then strain them. + +Put into a stew-pan a large piece of butter, or a spoonful of flour, and +two lumps of sugar. Add your purée, and let it stew again for about five +minutes. When you take it off the fire, stir in the yolks of two eggs +slightly beaten, and a spoonful of cream or rich milk. Put it in the +middle of a dish, and lay round it thin slices of fried bread or toast. + + +PURÉE OF BEANS. + +Having strung and cut your beans till you have a quart, throw them into +boiling water, with a little salt. Let them remain a quarter of an hour. +Then drain them, and throw into cold water to green them. After they +have lain half an hour in the cold water, take them out and drain them +again. + +Put a large piece of butter into a stew-pan with some pepper, a little +salt, and a spoonful of flour. Add your beans, and cover them with broth +or warm water. Put in a bunch of sweet-herbs cut small, and stew the +whole very slowly till it has dissolved into a mass. Then strain it. Put +a piece of butter into the purée, and serve it up. + + +PURÉE OF GREEN PEAS. + +Take a quart of shelled green peas. Wash them, and put them into a +stew-pan with water enough to cover them, a little salt and pepper, a +piece of butter the size of a walnut, a laurel leaf or a couple of +peach-leaves, and a bunch of mint. + +Let them stew very slowly; and if necessary moisten them occasionally +with a little warm water or broth. Stir them frequently, that they may +not stick to the pan. When they become of the consistence of marmalade, +strain it. Chop an onion fine, fry it in butter, and have it ready to +mix with the purée. + +Dried split peas may be made into a purée in the same manner. + +Purées may be made in a similar manner of different sorts of meat, +poultry &c. seasoned, stewed slowly to a jelly, then strained through a +cullender or sieve, and taken as soups. + + + + +EGGS, &c. + + +In choosing eggs, hold them up against the light, and if you see that +the yolk is round, and the white thin and clear, you may suppose them to +be good. But if the yolk appears to be broken and mixed with the white, +giving it a thick cloudy look, you may be sure that the egg is bad. Eggs +may be preserved by keeping them in a keg of lime-water, or by greasing +each egg all over with dripping, and putting them into a tight vessel +filled with wood-ashes, placing them all with their small ends +downwards. You may also keep them by burying them in salt. Still they +are never so good as when quite fresh. + +When you break eggs for use, do every one separately, in a saucer. If +you find the egg good, throw it into the pan in which they are to be +beaten. If you meet with a bad one, throw it away and wash the saucer or +get a clean one. A single bad egg will make the whole mixture heavy, +spungy, and of an unpleasant taste. + + +BOILED EGGS. + +When the water boils hard, put in the eggs, and let them boil exactly +three minutes. Then take them out, and cover them up for about a minute, +which will greatly improve them. Send them to table wrapped in a napkin, +and laid in a deep dish. + + +FRIED EGGS. + +Melt a piece of butter in a frying-pan. When it ceases to hiss, put in +the yolks only of your eggs. Season them with pepper and salt. When +fried, color them by holding over them a red-hot shovel. + + +STEWED EGGS. + +Melt some butter in a dish that will bear the fire. Add to it salt, and +nutmeg, and a little milk in the proportion of a table-spoonful to each +egg. Mix them well together. Then lay over it the yolks of your eggs, +first ascertaining that they are all good. Let it stew over a slow fire +for a few minutes; and color it by holding over it a red-hot shovel. The +eggs must not be allowed to get hard, but the surface should be soft and +perfectly smooth and even. + +Before you put in the eggs, you may stir into the mixture some heads of +boiled asparagus. + + +STUFFED EGGS. + +Boil twelve eggs hard. Take off the shell, and cut each egg in half. +Take out the yolks, and pound them in a mortar with a quarter of a pound +of butter; a nutmeg; some grated bread that has been soaked in milk; a +little salt; and if you choose, some minced sweet-herbs. Fill the whites +of the eggs with this stuffing, heaping it up, and smoothing it into a +round even shape. Butter a dish, and spread over the inside a thin layer +of the stuffing. Arrange in it all your halves of eggs, the bottoms +downwards. Put them into an oven, the lid of which must be hot. Let them +set about five minutes, and then send them to table. + + +EGG SNOW. + +Take a quart of milk, and stir into it two spoonfuls of rose-water, and +a quarter of a pound of white sugar, with a powdered nutmeg. Add by +degrees the yolks of twelve eggs well beaten. Boil the whole together, +stirring it all the time, so as to make a thick smooth custard. If you +keep it too long on the fire, it will be lumpy. Set it away to get cold +in a deep dish. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth that will +stand alone, adding to it twelve drops of essence of lemon. Heap it on +the dish of custard so as to look like a pile of snow; or you may drop +it with a large spoon, so as to form separate balls. On the top of each +ball you may lay a tea-spoonful of stiff currant-jelly. + + +PANCAKES. + +Beat together a quart of sifted flour, six eggs, a table-spoonful of +brandy, a grated nutmeg, a little salt, and sufficient water to make a +thin batter. Melt a piece of butter in a frying-pan, or substitute a +little sweet-oil. Pour in a ladleful of the batter, and let it spread +into a circular form. When it is slightly brown on one side, turn it +carefully on the other. Serve them up with white sugar grated over each. + +You may color them pink, by stirring into the mixture some of the juice +of a beet-root, which has been boiled and then beaten in a mortar. + + +OMELETS. + +_Cheese Omelet._--Grate some rich cheese, and mix it gradually with your +eggs while beating them. Season with salt and pepper. Melt some butter +in a frying-pan. Put in your omelet, and fry it first on one side, and +then on the other. When you dish it up, fold it over in half. + +_Bread Omelet._--Put two handfuls or more of bread crumbs into half a +pint of cream, with a grated nutmeg and a little salt. When the bread +has absorbed all the cream, stir it into the eggs as you beat them for +the omelet. Fry it in butter, and when dished, fold one half over the +other. + +_Lobster Omelet._--Beat in a mortar the flesh of a boiled lobster, +adding, at times, a little butter; and season it with pepper and salt. +Stir it gradually into the eggs while beating them. Fry it in butter. + +_Onion Omelet._--Boil some onions; mince them fine, and moisten them +with milk. Stir them into the eggs as you beat them. + +_Ham Omelet._--Is made with grated cold ham, stirred into the eggs while +beating. + +Omelets may be seasoned in the same manner with parsley, chopped +sweet-herbs, or mushrooms. Also with minced oysters. + + +MACCARONI. + +Boil half a pound of maccaroni with two ounces of butter, some whole +pepper, and a little salt. Do not let it boil long enough for the +maccaroni to lose its shape. When done, mix with it a quarter of a pound +of rich cheese, scraped or grated. Butter a deep dish, and put the +mixture into it. Then set it for a quarter of an hour in the oven. Brown +the top with a red-hot shovel. + + +MACCARONI PIE. + +Take half a pound of maccaroni, and put it into a stew-pan with an ounce +of butter, a little salt and pepper, and water enough to cover it. Stew +it till dry. Then grate a quarter of a pound of fine cheese, and mix it +with the maccaroni, adding another ounce of butter. Set it away to get +cold. + +Take another pan, which must be very deep, with a flat bottom, and +nearly the shape of a drum. Butter the inside. Make a good paste, and +cover with it the whole interior of the pan, sides and bottom. Put in +the maccaroni. Cover the pie with a lid of paste. Bake it at least half +an hour. When done, loosen it from the pan and turn it out on a dish. It +will be in the form of a drum, if the pan was of that shape. + + +BLANCMANGE IN EGGS. + +Take two ounces of shelled sweet almonds, and one ounce of shelled +bitter almonds. Blanch them by throwing them into scalding water to make +the skins peel off easily; then put them in cold water; wipe them dry +afterwards, and pound them in a mortar, adding at times a little +rose-water. + +Dissolve an ounce of isinglass in warm water, and then stir it into a +quart of cream. Add a quarter of a pound of broken loaf-sugar, and a +wine-glass of rose-water. Boil it hard for a quarter of an hour, and +stir it all the time. Then strain it through a linen bag, and put it +into egg-cups, or into the halves of egg-shells nicely and evenly +trimmed, and set it away in a cold place to congeal. + +Have ready some calves-feet jelly (made according to the directions +given in the article "Chickens in Jelly"); and when the blancmange is +firm, take out a small piece from the middle of each cupful, and replace +it with a lump of the jelly, put in so as to look like the yolk of the +egg. Or if more convenient, you need not put in the jelly till you have +taken the blancmange out of the cups or egg-shells, which must be done +by wetting the moulds with warm water on the outside. + +The jelly for this purpose must be very high-colored, by means of +brandy, or dark sweet wine. + +If nicely managed, the blancmange and jelly will look like eggs cut in +half. Lay them in a circle round a dish that contains something high and +ornamental,--for instance, a pyramid of ice-cream. + + + + +PART THE SIXTH. + + + + +PASTRY, CAKES, &c. + + +FRENCH PASTE. + +Sift a quart of flour, and lay it in a pan. Make a hole in the middle, +and put into it the white of an egg slightly beaten, a piece of butter +the size of an egg, and a very little salt. Pour in gradually as much +cold water as will moisten it. Mix it well with your hands, as rapidly +as possible, and see that no lumps are left in it. Set it away to cool, +and in a quarter of an hour roll it out, and spread over it half a pound +of butter which has been kept in ice. Then fold up the paste with the +four sides laid one over another, so as entirely to inclose the butter, +and set it for half an hour in a cool place. Then roll it again; fold +it, and give it another roll. Set it away again; and in half an hour +roll it out twice more, and it will be fit for use. + + +PUFF PASTE. + +May be made with a pound of butter, and a pound and a quarter of sifted +flour. The butter must be washed in cold water, and then squeezed very +hard, and made up into a lump. Divide it into eight parts. Mix one part +of the butter with the flour, adding just enough of water to moisten it. +Roll it out; spread over it a second portion of the butter; flour it; +fold it up, and roll it out again, adding another division of the +butter. Repeat this till you get in all the butter, a piece at a time, +folding and rolling the paste with each separate portion of the butter. +Then set it away to cool. If it sets several hours, it will be the +better for it; and better still if the paste is made the night before it +is wanted; always keeping it in a cold place. + +While buttering and rolling, do every thing as quickly as possible. + +Before you put it into the dishes, roll it out once more. It is +difficult in warm weather to make good puff paste without a marble +table, or slab, to roll it on. + + +CREAM TARTS. + +Mix together a quart of flour, half a pound of butter, a little salt, +and two beaten eggs. Add a little cold water; make it into a paste, and +set it away to cool. Then roll it out again. Cut it into round shapes +with the edge of a tumbler. Lay round each a rim made of an even strip +of the paste, and notch it handsomely. Bake them for a quarter of an +hour, and then take them from the oven. Beat together a pint of cream, +four eggs, and four table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar. Fill the tarts +with this mixture, grate nutmeg over each, and bake them again for a +quarter of an hour. + + +ALMOND TARTS. + +Blanch half a pound of shelled sweet almonds and three ounces of shelled +bitter almonds. Beat them, a few at a time, in a mortar, mixing them +well, and adding at times a little rose-water. When done, mix with them +a quarter of a pound of loaf-sugar powdered, and the juice and grated +peel of half a lemon. + +Have ready some fine paste. Cut it into circular pieces about the size +and thickness of a dollar. Put into each piece of paste some of the +almond mixture, heaping it up in the centre. Cover them with lids of +the same, and crimp the edges very neatly. Bake them about half an hour, +and grate sugar over them when done. + + +RISSOLES. + +Make some fine paste, and cut it out with the edge of a tumbler. Have +ready some minced veal, seasoned in the best manner, or some chopped +oysters, or any sort of force-meat, and lay some of it on one half of +each piece of paste. Then turn over it the other half, so as to inclose +the meat. Crimp the edges. Put some butter into a frying-pan. Lay the +rissoles into it, and fry them of a light brown. + +They should be in the shape of a half-moon. + + +ALMOND CUSTARDS. + +Blanch and pound in a mortar half a pound of shelled sweet almonds, and +three ounces of peach-kernels, or shelled bitter almonds, adding +sufficient rose-water to moisten them. When they are all pounded to a +paste, mix with them a quarter of a pound of powdered loaf-sugar, and +boil them in a quart of milk or cream. Then set it away to cool. When +cold, stir eight beaten eggs into it. Put the mixture into cups. Set +them in an iron oven half filled with water, and bake them. + + +VANILLA CUSTARDS. + +Cut a vanilla bean into slips, and boil them in a quart of milk, with a +quarter of a pound of white sugar. Let it boil slowly for a quarter of +an hour, and then set it away to cool. When cold, stir into it eight +beaten eggs, having left out the whites of four. Put the mixture into +cups, set them in water and bake them. Color them when done, by holding +over them a red-hot shovel. When cold, grate on sugar. + + * * * * * + +_Lemon Custards_ are made in the same manner; substituting for the +vanilla bean the grated rind of a large fresh lemon. + + +CHOCOLATE CUSTARDS. + +Cut into pieces half a pound of the best chocolate. Pour on it +sufficient milk to prevent its burning, and let it boil ten minutes. +After you remove it from the fire, have ready a pint of boiling milk or +cream, and pour it on the chocolate. Beat together the yolks of eight +eggs and the whites of two only, and stir them into the chocolate with +two ounces, or more, of loaf-sugar. Put the mixture into cups, set them +in an oven with water in it, and bake them. Beat the six remaining +whites of eggs to a froth, adding a very little sugar, and heap some of +the froth on each custard. You may lay on the top of each heap of froth +one of the bonbons or confections called chocolate-nuts. + + +COFFEE CUSTARDS. + +Take two ounces of roasted coffee and two ounces of raw coffee. Pound +them together in a mortar, but do not grind them. Boil this coffee in a +quart of rich milk. Let it get cold, and then strain it. Stir into it +two ounces of powdered loaf-sugar, and two large spoonfuls of cream. +Beat eight eggs, omitting the whites of four. Stir them gradually into +the coffee. Put it into cups, and bake the custards in an oven with +water. Grate white sugar over the tops when cold. + + +TEA CUSTARDS. + +Boil a quart of cream or rich milk, and pour it (while boiling) on three +ounces of the best green tea. Add two ounces of loaf sugar. Cover it and +set it away. Take eight eggs, and beat them well, leaving out the whites +of four; and when the tea is cold, stir in the eggs. Then strain the +whole mixture; put it into cups, and bake them in an oven with water. +Grate sugar over the top of each. + + +RICE POTTAGE. + +Put six table-spoonfuls of rice into a pint of water, and boil it till +quite soft. Drain it through a sieve, and put the rice into a quart of +milk with a quarter of a pound of sugar, and three or four peach-leaves, +or a few peach-kernels. Boil it, and before you serve it up, take out +the peach-leaves or kernels, and stir in the yolks of two eggs. + + +APPLE FRITTERS. + +Pare and core some fine large pippins, and cut them into round slices. +Soak them in brandy for two or three hours. Make a batter, in the +proportion of four eggs to a table-spoonful of olive-oil, a table +spoonful of rose-water, the same quantity of brandy, the same quantity +of cold water. Thicken the batter with a sufficient quantity of flour +stirred in by degrees, and mix it two or three hours before it is +wanted, that it may be light by fermentation. + +Put some butter into a frying-pan. Dip each slice of apple into the +batter, and fry them brown. Then drain them, grate white sugar over +them, and send them to table. + + * * * * * + +_Peach Fritters_ may be made in the same way, but the peaches must be +cut into quarters. + + +BREAD FRITTERS. + +Boil a quart of milk with cinnamon and sugar to your taste. When done, +stir in a table-spoonful of rose-water. Cut some slices of bread into a +circular shape. Soak them in the milk till they have absorbed it. Then +drain them. Have ready some yolks of eggs well beaten. Dip the slices of +bread into it, and fry them in butter. Serve them up strewed with +powdered sugar. + + +RICE CAKE. + +Take half a pound of rice and wash it well. Put it into a pint of cream +or milk, and boil it soft. Let it get cold. Then stir into it +alternately a quarter of a pound of sugar, two ounces of butter, eight +eggs well beaten (having left out the whites of four), and a wine-glass +of rose-water, or else the grated peel of a lemon. Mix all well. Butter +a mould or a deep pan with straight sides, and spread grated bread +crumbs all over its inside. Put in the mixture, and bake it three +quarters of an hour. + +Ground rice is best for this cake. + +If any of the cake is left, you may next day cut it in slices and fry +them in butter. + +Or, instead of baking the mixture in a large cake, you may put flour on +your hands, and roll it into round balls. Make a batter of beaten eggs, +sugar, and grated bread; dip the balls into it, and fry them in butter. + + +POTATO CAKE. + +Roast in the ashes a dozen small or six large potatoes. When done, peel +them, and put them into a pan with a little salt, and the rind of a +lemon grated. Add a quarter of a pound of butter, or half a pint of +cream, and a quarter of a pound of sugar. Having mashed the potatoes +with this mixture, rub it through a cullender, and stir it very hard. +Then set it away to cool. + +Beat eight eggs, and stir them gradually into the mixture. Season it +with a tea-spoonful of mixed spice, and half a glass of rose-water. + +Butter a mould or a deep dish, and spread the inside all over with +grated bread. Put in the mixture, and bake it for three quarters of an +hour. + + +SPONGE CAKE--CALLED IN FRANCE BISCUIT. + +Take ten eggs, and beat them till very thick and smooth. Add gradually a +pound of powdered loaf-sugar. Rub a lump of loaf-sugar all over the rind +of a large lemon, to draw the juice to the surface; then grate the peel +of the lemon, and stir it into the mixture, together with the lump of +sugar. Squeeze in the juice of the lemon, and add two table-spoonfuls of +rose-water. Beat the mixture very hard; then take half a pound of potato +flour (which is best), or else of fine wheat flour, and stir it in very +lightly and slowly. It must be baked immediately. + +Have ready some small square or oblong cases of thick white paper, with +an edge turned up all round, and sewed at the corners. They should be +about a finger in length, half a finger in breadth, and an inch and a +half in depth. Either butter these paper-cases, or sift white sugar all +over the inside. Put some of the mixture into each case, but do not fill +them to the top. Grate loaf-sugar over the top of each, and bake them +quickly. + +These cakes are much better when baked in paper cases; tins being +generally too thick for them. No cake requires greater care in baking. +If the oven is not hot enough, both at top and bottom, they will fall +and be heavy, and lose their shape. + + +CROQUETTES. + +Take a pound of powdered sugar, a pound of butter, half a pound of +wheat-flour, and half a pound of Indian meal; mix all together, and add +the juice and grated peel of a large lemon, with spice to your taste. +Make it into a lump of paste. Then put it into a mortar, and beat it +hard on all sides. + +Roll it out thin, and cut it into cakes with the edge of a tumbler, or +with a tin cutter. + +Flour a shallow tin pan. Lay the cakes into it, but not close together. +Bake them about ten minutes. Grate sugar over them when done. + + +MARGUERITES. + +Beat together till very light, a pound of butter and a pound of powdered +sugar. Sift a pound of flour into a pan. Take the yolks only, of twelve +eggs, and beat them till very thick and smooth. Pour them into the +flour, and add the beaten butter and sugar. Stir in a grated nutmeg, and +a wine-glass of rose-water. Mix the whole together, till it becomes a +lump of dough. + +Flour your paste-board, and lay the dough upon it; sprinkle it with +flour. Roll it out about half an inch thick, and cut it into round cakes +with the edge of a cup. Flour a shallow pan, put in the cakes (so as not +to touch), and bake them about five minutes in a quick oven. If the oven +is too cool, they will run. + +When the cakes are cool, lay on each a large lump of currant jelly. Take +the whites of the eggs, and beat them till they stand alone. Then add to +them, by degrees, sufficient powdered sugar to make the consistence of +icing, and ten drops of strong essence of lemon. Heap on each cake, with +a spoon, a pile of the icing over the currant-jelly. Set them in a cool +oven till the icing becomes firm and of a pale brownish tint. + +These cakes are very fine. + + +WAFERS. + +Sift half a pound of flour into a pan. Make a hole in the middle, and +put in three beaten eggs, a table-spoonful of brandy, a table-spoonful +of powdered sugar, a table-spoonful of sweet-oil, and a very little +salt, not more than will lie on a sixpence. Mix all together, adding +gradually a little milk, till you have a batter about the thickness of +good cream. Then stir in a table-spoonful of rose-water. Let there be no +lumps in the batter. Heat your wafer-iron on both sides, in a clear +fire, but do not allow it to get red-hot. Then grease the inside with a +brush dipped in sweet-oil, or a clean rag with some butter tied up in +it. Then put in the batter, allowing about two table-spoonfuls to each +wafer. Close the iron, and in baking turn it first on one side and then +on the other. When done, sprinkle the wafers with powdered sugar, and +roll each one up, pressing the edges together while warm, so as to make +them unite. + +A little practice will soon show you the proper degree of heat, and the +time necessary for baking the wafers. They should be but slightly +colored, and of an even tint all over. + + +GINGERBREAD. + +Mix together two pounds of flour, one pound of sugar, five beaten eggs, +three quarters of a pound of butter, and a tea-cupful of ginger. Put the +flour to the other ingredients, a little at a time, and stir the whole +very hard. Melt a tea-spoonful of sal aratus or fine pearl-ash in a +little sour milk, and stir it in at the last. Roll the dough into +sheets, and cut it out with square tins. If not stiff enough for +rolling, add a little more flour. Lay it in buttered pans, and bake it +in a moderate oven. + + + + +PART THE SEVENTH. + + + + +PREPARATIONS OF FRUIT, SUGAR, &c. + + +AN APPLE CHARLOTTE. + +Pare and core some fine pippins, and cut them into small pieces. Melt +some butter in the bottom of a pan. Then lay your apples in it with a +sufficient proportion of sugar, beaten cinnamon or nutmeg, and some +rose-water or grated lemon-peel. Set the pan in an oven, and let the +apples bake till they are quite soft. Then take them out of the pan, and +mash them to a marmalade with the back of a spoon. + +Cut some thin slices of bread into a triangular or three-cornered shape, +and dip them in melted butter. Then butter a broad deep dish, and lay +the pieces of bread in the bottom of it, making the points meet in the +centre. Spread a thick layer of apple all over the bread; then more +bread, covered with another layer of apple, and so on till the dish is +full; having a cover of bread on the top. Set it in the oven, and bake +it slowly about a quarter of an hour. + +A very fine Charlotte may be made by substituting slices of spunge-cake +for the bread, or having square spunge-cakes laid round, leaving a hole +in the centre to be filled up with gooseberry jelly. If you use +spunge-cake, you need not put it in the oven. + + +APPLE COMPOTE. + +Pare and core some large pippins, but leave them whole. Make a syrup by +boiling and skimming a pound of loaf-sugar melted in a gill of water, +into which the half of the white of an egg has been beaten. When the +syrup is quite clear, boil the apples in it till soft and tender. Then +take them out, lay them in a deep dish, and fill up with small +sweet-meats or marmalade the holes from whence you took the cores. + +Boil the syrup again till it becomes a jelly. Pour it hot over your +apples, and set it in a cool place to congeal. + +The syrup will be much improved by adding to it the juice of one or two +lemons, or a dozen drops of essence of lemon. + + +COMPOTE OF PEARS. + +Pare them, but leave on the stems. Lay them in a preserving-pan; and to +a dozen moderate-sized pears, put half a pound of white sugar, a gill of +water, and a few sticks of cinnamon, with some slips of lemon-peel. +Simmer them till tender; and when half done, pour in a glass of +port-wine. When quite done, take out the pears and lay them in a deep +dish. Strain the syrup; give it another boil, and pour it over them. + + +COMPOTE OF CHESTNUTS. + +Take some of the largest and finest chestnuts. Cut a slit in the shell +of each, and roast them in a charcoal furnace, taking care not to burn +them. When done, peel them and put them into a pan with some powdered +sugar, and a very little water. Let them simmer over a slow fire for +about a quarter of an hour. When done, take them out, put them into a +dish, squeeze over them some lemon-juice, and sprinkle them with +powdered sugar. + + +FRIED APPLES. + +Pare and core some of the largest and finest pippins, and cut them into +thin round slices. Mix together in a deep dish some brandy, lemon-juice, +and powdered sugar. Lay the slices of apple in it, and let them soak for +several hours. Then drain them, and dip each slice in flour. Put some +butter into a pan, and fry the apples of a fine brown. Dish them, and +grate loaf-sugar over them. + +Quinces may be done in the same manner. So also may peaches, but they +must be cut in half. + + +PEACH MARMALADE. + +Take ripe peaches; pare them and cut them in half, taking out the +stones. Weigh them, and to each pound of fruit allow half a pound of +loaf-sugar. Mash them with the sugar, and put them in a +preserving-kettle. Boil them slowly till they become a shapeless mass, +which will generally be in about three quarters of an hour. Stir the +marmalade frequently, to prevent its sticking to the kettle. Blanch half +the kernels, and cut them in two; and when the marmalade is about half +done, put them into it to give it a fine flavor. Take out the kernels +when the marmalade is cold, and then tie it up in pots or glasses, +laying over it paper dipped in brandy. + +Marmalade of plums or green-gages may be made in the same manner. + + +BRANDY PEACHES. + +Take large yellow free-stone peaches; they must not be too ripe. Wipe +off the down with a flannel, and then prick each peach to the stone with +a large pin. Put them into a pan, and scald them with boiling water. +Cover them, and let them rest for a few minutes. This is to make them +white. You may repeat the scalding two or three times. Then take them +out to drain and dry. + +Allow a pound of the best loaf-sugar to a dozen large peaches. Put the +sugar into a preserving-kettle (lined with enamel or porcelain), and +melt it, allowing to each pound a gill of water, and half the white of +an egg. Boil the sugar, and skim it till perfectly clear. Then put in +the peaches, and give them a boil. Take them off the fire, and let them +set in the syrup till next day. + +The following morning take out the peaches, set the syrup over the fire, +and when it has boiled a few minutes put in the peaches, and give them a +short boil. Then take them out, and let them get cold. Boil down the +syrup to half its original quantity, but take care that it does not boil +long enough to congeal or become thick. Put the peaches into a glass +jar, and pour the syrup over them. Fill up the jar with brandy, and +cover it closely. + +Apricots may be done in the same manner. Also pears. The stems must be +left on the pears. + + +GOOSEBERRY POTTAGE. + +Stew two quarts of fine large gooseberries in just sufficient water to +cover them. When quite soft and broken, mash them with the back of a +spoon, make them very sweet with sugar, and set them away to get cold. +Take three pints of rich milk; stir into it a pounded nutmeg and the +yolks of four eggs. Then set it over a bed of hot coals, and let it +simmer, stirring it gently all the time. Before it comes to a boil, take +it off the fire and gradually stir in the gooseberries. It must be +quite cold before you serve it up. Send it to table in a bowl, and eat +spunge-cake with it. + +It will be still nicer, if you use the pulp only of the gooseberries, +pressed through a sieve or cullender. + + +FRUIT JELLIES. + +Previous to making your jelly, clarify the sugar, which must be the best +loaf. Break it up, and to each pound allow a gill of water and an ounce +of isinglass. Mix the water with the sugar. Dissolve the isinglass in as +much hot water as will cover it. Set the sugar over the fire in a +preserving-kettle; and when it is beginning to boil, throw in the melted +isinglass. Skim the syrup well, and when it is quite clear and no more +scum rises, take it from the fire, cover it, and leave it to settle. + +Prepare the fruit of which you intend to make the jelly. If small fruit, +such as gooseberries, currants, grapes, raspberries, or strawberries; +pick them from the stems, and put them into a jar; set the jar in a +vessel of warm water, and let them come to a boil. Then take them out, +put them into a fine sieve, set a pan under it, and with the back of a +large spoon press out all the juice from the fruit. Mix the juice, while +warm, with the clarified sugar, and boil them together for about a +quarter of an hour. Then put it into your jars or glasses, and tie it up +with brandy-paper. + +If you want the jelly for immediate use, put it into a mould; set the +mould in ice for two or three hours; and when the jelly is congealed, +loosen it by setting the mould in warm water, and then turn it out. + + +PRESERVED PUMPKIN. + +Take a fine ripe pumpkin of a deep rich color. Cut from it as many +slices as you want; they should be very thin. Have ready some +lime-water. Put into it the slices of pumpkin, and let them soak for +twenty-four hours. Then take them out, wash them well in cold water, and +wipe them dry. Having prepared a nicely clarified syrup of sugar, put +the slices of pumpkin into it, and let them simmer over a slow fire +without stirring, for a day and a night; but first flavor them to your +taste with lemon-juice mixed into the syrup. When done, they will be +crisp and transparent. Put them into broad stone or queensware pots, and +tie them up with brandy-paper. + + +PRESERVED RASPBERRIES. + +Let your raspberries be gathered on a dry day. Measure them, and to a +quart of raspberries allow a pound of fine loaf-sugar. Spread the fruit +on large dishes, but do not heap it; let every raspberry lie singly. +Pound the sugar to powder, and sift it over the fruit. + +Then have ready the same quantity of ripe currants. Squeeze them through +a linen bag which has been wrung out of cold water. Prepare a pound of +loaf-sugar for each pint of currant juice. Put the sugar into a +preserving-kettle, and pour the currant-juice over it. When it has +melted, set it on the fire, and boil and skim it for ten minutes. When +no more scum rises, put in the raspberries. As soon as they are all +scalded, take off the kettle, cover it, and set it away for two hours. +Then put it again on the fire for about five minutes. Afterward set it +again away for two hours, and then return it to the fire as before. +This must be done three times in all, but on no account allow the +raspberries to boil. If done with care, they will be whole and +transparent. + +When cold, put them up in glasses. + + * * * * * + +If you preserve white raspberries, do them in the juice of white +currants. + + * * * * * + +Any other fruit may be done in jelly in the same manner. + + +ORANGE JELLY. + +Peel twelve large sweet oranges, and cut them into small pieces. Put +them into a linen bag, and squeeze out all the juice. Measure the juice, +and if it does not amount to a pint, squeeze some more pieces of orange +through the bag. Put a pound of double-refined loaf-sugar into a +preserving kettle, and pour the juice over it. When the sugar has +melted, put it over the fire. Dissolve two ounces of isinglass in a +little hot water, and add it to the jelly just as it is beginning to +boil. Let it boil hard twenty minutes. Then put it into glasses, and tie +it up with brandy-paper. + +Lemon-jelly may be made in this manner. + + +CLARIFIED SUGAR, FOR PRESERVES, AND OTHER USES. + +To each pound of sugar allow half a pint of water, and half the white of +an egg; thus four pounds of sugar will require a quart of water and the +whites of two eggs. Mix the white of egg with the water, and beat it to +a froth with rods. Take two thirds of the water, and pour it over the +sugar. When it has melted, set it over the fire. When it rises and +boils, pour in a little more of the water, and diminish the fire to +abate the boiling and allow the scum to rise. Take it off, skim it well, +and in five minutes set it on the fire again. When it boils a second +time, add a little more water; and afterwards take it off and skim it +again. Repeat this till it is quite clear, and no more scum rises. Then +take it from the fire. Dip a fine napkin in warm water, wring it out, +and then strain the syrup through it. Afterwards put your fruit into the +syrup, and boil it till tender. + +You may keep this syrup in bottles, and at any time you can put fruit +into it; for instance, strawberries, raspberries plums, apricots &c. If +only wanted for immediate use, you need not boil them, but send them to +table in the syrup, with the advantage of their natural color and +flavor. + + +FRUIT IN SUGAR COATS. + +Prepare some of the best loaf-sugar powdered as fine as possible. Have +ready some white of egg. Take some of the best and largest plums, +cherries, strawberries, raspberries, apricots (peeled) or any other +suitable fruit. + +Dip the fruit, separately, in the white of egg, and then roll it all +over in the powdered sugar, which will thus adhere to it, and form a +coat. Then lay it on a dish (spreading it out so as not to touch) and +set it in a cool oven to harden. + + +BURNT ALMONDS. + +Take a pound of shelled sweet almonds, a pound of loaf-sugar, and half a +pint of water. Melt the sugar in the water, and then set it over the +fire. Put in the almonds, and stir them about till they are well +dispersed through the sugar. Let them boil, and when you hear the +almonds crack, they are sufficiently done. Take them off, and stir them +till they are dry, and then put them into a wire sieve, and sift from +them the loose sugar. Put this sugar again into the pan, with sufficient +water to moisten it, and let it come to a boil. Then put in two +spoonfuls of cochineal powder to color it red; add the almonds, and stir +them over the fire till they are quite dry. Put them away in glass jars. + + +PEPPERMINT DROPS + +Powder some fine loaf-sugar, add to it a little essence of peppermint +(sufficient to give it a strong flavor) and enough of water to make it +into a thick paste, which you must mix on a plate with the point of a +broad knife. Then put the paste into a pan that has a lip or little +spout at one side; melt it over the fire, and let it come to a boil. As +soon as it boils, take it off and drop it from the lip of the pan into a +clean broad tin pan or plate. Let the drops be all of the same size and +shape. The tin pan that receives them must be very cold. As soon as the +drops have hardened, loosen them from the tin, by slipping the point of +a knife under each. + +You may color them red with cochineal. + +Keep them in a glass jar. + +If the mixture congeals before all the drops are made, melt it again +over the fire. + + +CHOCOLATE DROPS. + +Scrape some of the best chocolate, and mix it with powdered white sugar. +Moisten it with a little water, so as to make a paste. Work it on a +plate with a knife. Then boil it in a pan with a lip, and pour it (a +drop at a time) into a cold tin pan. While moist, sprinkle colored +sugar-sand or non-pareils over the surface of each chocolate drop, which +drop must be of a good shape, and about the size of a sixpence. When +they are hardened, take them off the tin, by slipping under them the +point of a knife. + +Keep them in glass jars. + +After the chocolate has boiled, make the drops as fast as possible; for +if it gets cold before they are all done, it will injure it much to boil +it over again. + +The confectioners use for these purposes small leaden moulds, greased +with oil of almonds. Into these moulds they pour the mixture, so that +every thing comes out of the same size and shape. + + +NOUGAT. + +This is a very fine confection. Take three quarters of a pound of +shelled sweet almonds, and one quarter of a pound of shelled bitter +almonds. Blanch them by scalding them in boiling water. Then throw them +into cold water, and take them out and wipe them. Cut them into small +pieces (but do not pound them,) and mix them well together. + +Take a pound of loaf-sugar broken small, and mix it with half a pint of +cold water, and an ounce of isinglass melted in a very little hot water. +Boil the sugar, and skim it well. When it is quite clear, throw in your +almonds, having first squeezed over them the juice of two lemons. Stir +the almonds well through the sugar; and as soon as they are properly +mixed with it, take the kettle off the fire. + +Have ready a mould or a square tin pan well greased with sweet-oil. Put +your mixture into it, a little at a time; dispersing the almonds equally +through the sugar, before it has time to get cold. But if it does chill +before the almonds are well mixed in it, set it again over the fire to +melt. Turn it frequently in the mould, to prevent its sticking. When it +has become a hard cake, set the mould for a moment in warm water, and +turn out the nougat. + +In stirring it, you had better use a wooden spoon. + + +ORGEAT PASTE. + +Take half a pound of shelled bitter almonds, and a pound and a half of +shelled sweet almonds. Blanch them, and pound them in a mortar one or +two at a time, pouring in frequently a little rose-water, which will +preserve their whiteness and prevent them from being oily and heavy. +Pound them to a fine smooth paste, and then mix them with a pound and a +half of loaf-sugar finely powdered. + +Put the mixture again into the mortar, a little at a time, and pound it +awhile that the sugar and almonds may be thoroughly incorporated; adding +still a little rose-water. + +When done, put it away in small covered pots or glasses, and it will +keep several months in a cool dry place. It makes a very fine drink. + +When you want to use it, put a small piece into a tumbler of cold water, +and stir it till dissolved. + + + + +LIQUEURS. + + +To filter cordials, cover the bottom of a sieve with clean blotting +paper. Pour the liquor into it (having set a vessel underneath to +receive it), and let it drip through the paper and through the sieve. +Renew the paper frequently, and fasten it down with pins. + +This process is slow, but it makes the liquor beautifully clear. + + +NOYAU. + +Take six ounces of peach kernels, and one ounce of bitter almonds. Break +them slightly. Put them into a jug with three pints of white French +brandy. Let them infuse three weeks; shaking the jug every day. Then +drain the liquor from the kernels, and strain it through a linen bag. +Melt three quarters of a pound of the best loaf-sugar in a pint of +rose-water. Mix it with the liquor, and filter it through a sieve, the +bottom of which is to be covered on the inside with blotting paper. Let +the vessel which is placed underneath to receive the liquor be entirely +white, that you may be the better enabled to judge of its clearness. If +it is not clear the first time, repeat the filtering. Then bottle it for +use. + + +RASPBERRY CORDIAL. + +Take a quart of raspberry-juice, and half a pint of cherry-juice, the +fruit having been squeezed in a linen bag after the cherries have been +stoned. Mix the juices together, and dissolve in them two pounds of +loaf-sugar. Then add two quarts of French brandy; put it into a jug, and +let it rest five weeks. Afterwards strain it, and bottle it for use. + + +ROSE CORDIAL. + +Take a pound of the leaves of full-blown red roses. Put them into a +quart of lukewarm water, and let them infuse for two days, in a covered +vessel. Then squeeze them through a linen bag, to press out all the +liquid, and take as much white brandy as you have of the decoction of +roses. To a pint of the infusion add half a pound of loaf-sugar, and a +very small quantity of coriander and cinnamon. Put it into a jug, and +let it set for two weeks. Then filter it through blotting paper, and put +it into bottles. + + +QUINCE CORDIAL. + +Pare your quinces, and scrape them to the core. Put all the scrapings +into a tureen, and see that there are no seeds among them. Let the +scrapings remain covered in the tureen for two days. Then put them into +a linen bag, and squeeze out all the juice. Measure it, and mix it with +an equal quantity of white brandy. To each pint of the mixture add half +a pound of loaf-sugar, and a little cinnamon and cloves. Put it into a +jug, and let it infuse for two months. Then filter it through blotting +paper, and bottle it. This cordial improves by age, and is excellent. + + +LEMON CORDIAL. + +Pare off very thin the yellow rind of some fine lemons. Cut the lemons +in half, and squeeze out all the juice. To each pint of the juice, +allow half a pound of loaf-sugar. Mix the juice, the peel, and the sugar +together; cover it, and let it set twenty-four hours. Then mix it with +an equal quantity of white brandy, put it into a jug, and let it set a +month. Then strain it through a linen bag; and afterwards filter it +through blotting paper, before you bottle it. + + + + +PART THE EIGHTH. + + + + +MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. + + +FRENCH COFFEE. + +Let the coffee be roasted immediately before you want to use it, as it +loses much of its strength by keeping. Its color, when done, should be a +fine bright brown; but by no means allow it to scorch. A cylindrical +coffee-roaster that can be turned by a handle, and sets before the fire, +is far preferable to a pot or a pan. Grind the coffee while warm. + +If you intend to make half a dozen cups of coffee for drinking, measure +six cups of water of the same size, and put the water into the +coffee-pot. Set it on hot coals, and when the water boils, put in two or +three chips of isinglass, or the white of an egg. Then throw in six +large tea-spoonfuls of ground coffee. Stir it several times while +boiling, and set it several times back from the fire to diminish the +boiling gradually. When it has boiled sufficiently, remove it entirely +from the coals, pour in a cup of cold water, and then put it in a corner +and let it settle for half an hour. Afterwards pour it off from the +grounds into another pot (which must first be scalded), and set it close +to the fire, but do not let it boil again. + +If you intend to serve it up with hot cream, you must make the coffee +stronger. While the coffee is clearing, boil your cream or milk, and +pour some of it hot into each cup of coffee. + + +COFFEE WITHOUT BOILING. + +Coffee made without boiling is much stronger, more economical, and less +troublesome than the usual way; but it requires a pot of a particular +construction. The best sort of pot for this purpose is called in French +a Grecque (Greek). It must be made of the best block-tin, and of a tall +cylindrical shape, with the spout very near the bottom. The receptacle +for the coffee-powder fits into the upper part of the coffee-pot, and +must be taken out when washed. The bottom of this receiver is pierced +with very small holes, and there are two other strainers, made of +movable plates of tin, also covered with fine holes. These two strainers +fit into the receiver. The powdered coffee is to be placed between them, +so that it may filter through the lower strainer, and also through the +holes at the bottom of the receiver. Having scalded the pot, put the +coffee into the receiver between the two movable strainers, and pour in +some water which must be boiling hard at the time. The coffee will then +drain through into the lower part of the pot where the spout is, and +will clear itself in passing through the holes. Shut down the lid, place +the pot near the fire, and the coffee will be ready for use as soon as +it has done draining through. + +Allow a large tea-spoonful of the powder for each cup that you intend to +have. + +This mode of preparing coffee is very expeditious, and requires neither +isinglass nor white of egg. + + +CHOCOLATE. + +Never boil chocolate in milk, as that spoils the flavor; and do not +scrape it, but merely cut it into pieces. To an ounce of chocolate allow +a cup of boiling water. + +Having first scalded the pot, put in the chocolate, pour the water on +it, and boil it till one third has evaporated. Then supply that third +with cream or milk, and take it immediately from the fire. + +You need not stir it more than two or three times. + + +FINE LEMONADE. + +Allow a whole lemon and four or five lumps of loaf-sugar to half a pint +of cold water. Roll the lemons hard on a table to make them more juicy. +Cut them in half, and squeeze them over the sugar. Then pour on the +water, and stir till the sugar is dissolved. Take out whatever seeds may +have fallen in. In warm weather, put a lump of ice into each glass. + + +PUNCH. + +Take three large lemons, and roll them very hard on the table to make +them more juicy. Then pare them as thin as possible. Cut out the pulp, +and throw away the seeds and the white part of the rind. Put the yellow +rind and the pulp into a pint of boiling water; set it on the fire, and +let it boil two or three minutes. Take it off, and throw in a +tea-spoonful of raw green tea of the best sort, and let it infuse about +five minutes. Then strain it through linen. Stir into it three quarters +of a pound of loaf-sugar, and a pint of brandy, or any other suitable +liquor. Set it again over the fire, and when it is just ready to boil, +remove it, and pour it into a china bowl or pitcher. + + +CONVENIENT LEMONADE. + +Take four ounces of powdered tartaric acid, and two drachms of essential +oil of lemon. Mix them together, and keep them in a well-corked phial. A +table-spoonful mixed with sugar and water, will make six or eight +glasses of lemonade. + +It will keep about a month, but not longer, as it will then lose its +strength. + + +FRENCH MUSTARD. + +Put on a plate an ounce of the very best mustard powder, with a +salt-spoon of salt, a few leaves of tarragon, and a clove of garlic +minced fine. Pour on by degrees sufficient vinegar to dilute it to the +proper consistence (about a wine-glassful), and mix it well with a +wooden spoon. Do not use it in less than twenty-four hours after it is +mixed. + + +POTATO FLOUR. + +Potato flour is excellent for sponge-cake, and other things which +require extraordinary lightness. It is also good for young children, and +for convalescent sick persons. + +Take the best and most mealy potatoes; pare them, and wash them through +several waters. Then rasp or grate them over a tureen half full of cold +water. Continue to grate the potatoes till the lower half of the tureen +is filled with the pulp, so that the water may rise to the top. The +mealy part of the potatoes will sink to the bottom, while the remainder +or the useless part will rise to the surface. When nothing more rises, +pour off the water carefully, and dry the flour which you find at the +bottom. When quite dry, pound it in a mortar to a fine powder, and sift +it through a sieve. + +Potato flour is much lighter than that of wheat. + + +COLD PICKLES. + +Season some of the best vinegar with a little garlic, a little tarragon, +and a little sweet-oil. Put it into a glass jar, and keep it well +covered. You may throw into it the green seeds of nasturtians, morella +cherries, little onions, small young carrots when but a finger long, +radish pods, and various other things. Keep the jar well closed, and +the pickles will be as good and keep as long as if they had been boiled. + +Nasturtians and cherries will keep in plain vinegar without any +seasoning. + + +CORNICHONS, OR FRENCH CUCUMBER PICKLES. + +Take ten pounds of very small cucumbers. Brush them all over to clean +them well, and cut off the stems. Put them into an earthen pan with two +handfuls of salt. Let them rest twenty-four hours, and then drain them. +When they are well drained, put them back into the same pan, and pour in +a quantity of boiling hot white wine vinegar, sufficient to cover them. +Then cover the pan carefully with a lid or dish, and let the cucumbers +set in the vinegar twenty-four hours. They will then be yellow. Pour the +vinegar from them, and cover them with vine-leaves. Boil the vinegar +again, and when it boils throw it over the cucumbers, stirring them +well. + +When the vinegar is cold, pour it from the cucumbers, and boil it again. +Then pour it over them, and proceed in this manner four or five times, +till they become of a fine green. Keep them in the interval always +covered with a layer of vine-leaves, fresh each time, and also with a +cloth kept down by a large dish. This, by keeping in the steam, will +assist them in greening. + +Then drain them on a sieve, and put them into glass jars. + +Afterwards, boil some fresh white wine vinegar, first mixing in it the +following seasoning. To every quart of vinegar allow half an ounce of +mace, half an ounce of sliced ginger, half an ounce of whole black +pepper, six cloves, a few sprigs of tarragon, and half a clove of +garlic. + +Boil the vinegar with these ingredients for five minutes, and then pour +it hot on the pickles. Tie them up carefully. They may be used in a +week. + +The generality of French pickles, are made in a manner similar to those +of England and America. + + +FINE COLOGNE WATER. + +Procure at an apothecary's the following oils and have them all put into +the same phial:--Oil of lemon, 2 drams; oil of rosemary, 2 drams; oil of +lavender, 1 dram; oil of bergamot, 2 drams; oil of cinnamon, 10 drops; +oil of cloves, 10 drops; oil of roses, 2 drops; tincture of musk, 8 +drops. + +Put 2 pint of highly rectified spirits of wine into a bottle, and pour +the oils into it. Shake it hard for a few minutes, having corked it +tightly. It will be fit for immediate use, but it improves by keeping. + +If you wish it stronger, double the quantity of all the oils, but have +only a pint of spirits of wine. + + +THE END. + + + + +Transcriber's Note + + +The following typographical errors were corrected: + + Page Error + v Green Peas Soup ib changed to Green Peas Soup ib. + v Garlic Butter ib changed to Garlic Butter ib. + vi Hazlenut changed to Hazelnut + viii French Cakes changed to French Paste + ix Chocolate Drops ib changed to Chocolate Drops ib. + 16 our pounds changed to four pounds + 21 marmelade changed to marmalade + 31 rolled in flour changed to rolled in flour, + 31 en minutes changed to ten minutes + 32 SIRLOIN OF BEEF changed to SIRLOIN OF BEEF. + 33 hem round changed to them round + 34 pen-knife, changed to pen-knife. + 67 same manner changed to same manner. + 70 of brandy changed to of brandy. + 73 warm water changed to warm water. + 82 Ham Omelet changed to Ham Omelet. + 92 over its inside changed to over its inside. + 103 sieve or cullender changed to sieve or cullender. + 110 through the sieve, changed to through the sieve. + +The following words were inconsistently spelled or hyphenated. + + bread-crumbs / breadcrumbs + sauce-pan / saucepan + sponge-cake / spunge-cake + spongy / spungy + sweet-herbs / sweet herbs + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Domestic French Cookery, 4th ed., by Sulpice Barué + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DOMESTIC FRENCH COOKERY, 4TH ED. *** + +***** This file should be named 34837-8.txt or 34837-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/4/8/3/34837/ + +Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Domestic French Cookery, 4th ed. + +Author: Sulpice Barué + +Translator: Eliza Leslie + +Release Date: January 3, 2011 [EBook #34837] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DOMESTIC FRENCH COOKERY, 4TH ED. *** + + + + +Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<div class="tn"> +<p class="titlepage"><b>Transcriber’s Note</b></p> + +<p class="noindent">Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A <a href="#trans_note">list</a> of these changes +is found at the end of the text. Inconsistencies in spelling and +hyphenation have been maintained. A <a href="#trans_note">list</a> of inconsistently spelled and +hyphenated words is found at the end of the text.</p> +</div> + +<hr class="chapbreak"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_i" id="Page_i">[i]</a></span></p> + +<h1 class="chapterhead">DOMESTIC<br> +FRENCH COOKERY,<br> +<br> +<span class="size50">CHIEFLY</span><br> +<br> +<span class="size60">TRANSLATED FROM SULPICE BARUÉ.</span></h1> + + +<div class="titledecorate"> +<p class="titlepage">BY MISS LESLIE,<br> +AUTHOR OF “SEVENTY-FIVE RECEIPTS,†&C.</p> +</div> + +<p class="titlepage">FOURTH EDITION.</p> + +<p class="titlepage">Philadelphia:<br> +CAREY & HART—CHESTNUT STREET.</p> + +<hr class="decshort"> + +<p class="titlepage">1836.</p> + + +<hr class="chapbreak"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ii" id="Page_ii">[ii]</a></span></p> + +<p class="titlepage">Entered according to the Act of Congress, the 25th day of October, 1832, +by<br> + +<span class="smcap">E. L. Carey & A. Hart</span>,<br> + +in the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the Eastern District of +Pennsylvania.</p> + + +<div class="titledec2"> +<p class="noindent">STEREOTYPED BY J. HOWE.</p> +</div> + + +<hr class="chapbreak"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[iii]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE.</h2> + +<hr class="decshort"> + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> design of the following little book is to furnish receipts for a +select variety of French dishes, explained and described in such a +manner as to make them intelligible to American cooks, and practicable +with American utensils and American fuel. Those that (according to the +original work) cannot be prepared without an unusual and foreign +apparatus have been omitted; and also such as can only be accomplished +by the consummate skill and long practice of native French cooks.</p> + +<p>Many dishes have been left out, as useless in a country where provisions +are abundant. On this side of the Atlantic all persons in respectable +life can obtain better articles of food than sheeps’ tails, calves’ +ears, &c. and the preparation of these articles (according to the +European receipts) is too tedious and complicated to be of any use to +the indigent, or to those who can spare but little time for their +cookery.</p> + +<p>Also, the translator has inserted no receipts which contain nothing +different from the usual American mode of preparing the same dishes.</p> + +<p>Most of the French Cookery Books introduced into this country have +failed in their object, from the evident deficiency of the translators +in a competent<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">[iv]</a></span> knowledge of the technical terms of cookery and from the +multitude of French words interspersed through the directions, and which +cannot, in general, be comprehended without an incessant and troublesome +reference to the glossary.</p> + +<p>The translator of the following pages has endeavored, according to the +best of her ability, to avoid these defects, and has aimed at making a +book of practical utility to all those who may have a desire to +introduce occasionally at their tables good specimens of the French +culinary art.</p> + +<p>From these receipts she believes that many advantageous hints may be +taken for improvements in American cookery; and she hopes that, upon +trial, this little work may be found equally useful in private families, +hotels, and boarding-houses.</p> + +<p><i>Philadelphia, September, 1832.</i></p> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[v]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS.</h2> + +<hr class="decshort"> + +<p class="toctitle"><a href="#SOUPS">SOUPS.</a></p> + +<div class="tocwidth"> +<span class="tocleft">Beef Soup</span> <span class="tocright">Page <a href="#BEEF_SOUP">13</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Consommé, or Jelly Soup</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#CONSOMME">14</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Pease Soup</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#PEASE_SOUP">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Maccaroni Soup</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#MACCARONI_SOUP">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Chestnut Soup</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#CHESTNUT_SOUP">15</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Almond Soup</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#ALMOND_SOUP">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Lobster Soup</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#LOBSTER_SOUP">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Oyster Soup</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#OYSTER_SOUP">16</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Green Peas Soup</span> <span class="tocright"><a name="corr1" id="corr1"></a><a href="#GREEN_PEAS_SOUP">ib.</a></span> +</div> + + +<p class="toctitle"><a href="#GRAVIES_OR_ESSENCES">GRAVIES, OR ESSENCES.</a></p> + +<div class="tocwidth"> +<span class="tocleft">Brown Gravy</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#BROWN_GRAVY">17</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">White Gravy</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#WHITE_GRAVY">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Essence of Game</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#ESSENCE_OF_GAME">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">To Clarify Gravies or Essences</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#TO_CLARIFY_GRAVIES">18</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Velouté, or Velvet Essence</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#VELOUTE">ib.</a></span> +</div> + +<p class="toctitle"><a href="#SAUCES_c">SAUCES, &c.</a></p> + +<div class="tocwidth"> +<span class="tocleft">Bechamel</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#BECHAMEL">19</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Another Bechamel</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#ANOTHER_BECHAMEL">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Drawn Butter</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#DRAWN_BUTTER">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Melted Butter, another way</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#MELTED_BUTTER">20</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Cold Sauce for Fish</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#COLD_SAUCE_FOR_FISH">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Sauce for Vegetables</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#SAUCE_FOR_VEGETABLES">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Pungent Sauce, or Sauce Piquante</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#PUNGENT_SAUCE">21</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Anchovy Sauce</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#ANCHOVY_SAUCE">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Curry Sauce</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#CURRY_SAUCE">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Tomata Sauce</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#TOMATA_SAUCE">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Cucumber Sauce</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#CUCUMBER_SAUCE">22</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Bread Sauce</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#BREAD_SAUCE">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Sauce Robert</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#SAUCE_ROBERT">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Shalot or Onion Sauce</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#SHALOT_OR_ONION_SAUCE">23</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Universal Sauce</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#UNIVERSAL_SAUCE">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Lobster Sauce</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#LOBSTER_SAUCE">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Spinach for coloring Green</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#SPINACH_FOR_COLORING_GREEN">24</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[vi]</a></span>Garlic Butter</span> <span class="tocright"><a name="corr2" id="corr2"></a><a href="#GARLIC_BUTTER">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Hazelnut Butter</span> <span class="tocright"><a name="corr3" id="corr3"></a><a href="#HAZELNUT_BUTTER">24</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Larding</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#LARDING">ib.</a></span> +</div> + +<p class="toctitle"><a href="#MEATS">MEATS.</a></p> + +<div class="tocwidth"> +<span class="tocleft">Veal à la Mode</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#VEAL_A_LA_MODE">29</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Veal Cutlets</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#VEAL_CUTLETS">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Blanquette, or Fricassee of Veal</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#BLANQUETTE_OR_FRICASSEE_OF_VEAL">30</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Godiveau</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#GODIVEAU">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Calves’ Liver baked</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#CALVES_LIVER_BAKED">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Calves’ Liver fried</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#CALVES_LIVER_FRIED">31</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Veal Kidneys</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#VEAL_KIDNEYS">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Grillades</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#GRILLADES">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Liver Cake</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#LIVER_CAKE">32</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Sirloin of Beef</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#SIRLOIN_OF_BEEF">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Stewed Beef</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#STEWED_BEEF">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Beef Steaks</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#BEEF_STEAKS">33</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Beef à la Mode</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#BEEF_A_LA_MODE">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Roasted Ham</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#ROASTED_HAM">34</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Fried Ham with Tomatas</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#FRIED_HAM">35</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Roasted Tongue</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#ROASTED_TONGUE">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Baked Tongue</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#BAKED_TONGUE">36</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Potted Tongue</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#POTTED_TONGUE">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Leg of Mutton with Oysters</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#LEG_OF_MUTTON_WITH_OYSTERS">37</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Cutlets à la Maintenon</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#CUTLETS_A_LA_MAINTENON">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Pork Cutlets</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#PORK_CUTLETS">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Larded Rabbit</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#LARDED_RABBIT">38</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Rabbits in Papers</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#RABBITS_IN_PAPERS">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Pilau</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#PILAU">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Veal Sweetbreads</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#VEAL_SWEETBREADS">39</a></span> +</div> + +<p class="toctitle"><a href="#GAME_AND_POULTRY">GAME AND POULTRY.</a></p> + +<div class="tocwidth"> +<span class="tocleft">A Salmi</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#A_SALMI">43</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Cold Salmi</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#COLD_SALMI">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Ragooed Livers</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#RAGOOED_LIVERS">44</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">A fine Hash</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#A_FINE_HASH">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Marinade of Fowls</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#MARINADE_OF_FOWLS">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Fricassee of Fowls</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#FRICASSEE_OF_FOWLS">45</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Fowls with Tarragon</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#FOWLS_WITH_TARRAGON">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">A stewed Fowl</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#A_STEWED_FOWL">46</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Chickens in Jelly</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#CHICKENS_IN_JELLY">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Pulled Chickens</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#PULLED_CHICKENS">47</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Stewed Turkey, or Turkey en Daube</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#STEWED_TURKEY">48</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[vii]</a></span>Roasted Turkey</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#ROASTED_TURKEY">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Potted Goose</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#POTTED_GOOSE">49</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Ducks with Turnips</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#DUCKS_WITH_TURNIPS">50</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">A Duck with Olives</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#A_DUCK_WITH_OLIVES">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">A Duck with Peas</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#A_DUCK_WITH_PEAS">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Turkey Puddings</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#TURKEY_PUDDINGS">51</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Baked Pigeons, or Pigeons à la Crapaudine</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#BAKED_PIGEONS">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Broiled Pigeons</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#BROILED_PIGEONS">52</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Pigeons Pear-fashion (Pigeons au poire)</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#PIGEONS_PEAR-FASHION">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Pigeons with Peas</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#PIGEONS_WITH_PEAS">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Roasted Partridges</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#ROASTED_PARTRIDGES">53</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Partridges with Cabbage</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#PARTRIDGES_WITH_CABBAGE">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">A Partridge Pie</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#A_PARTRIDGE_PIE">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Roasted Pheasants</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#ROASTED_PHEASANTS">54</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Broiled Quails</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#BROILED_QUAILS">55</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Roasted Plovers</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#ROASTED_PLOVERS">ib.</a></span> +</div> + +<p class="toctitle"><a href="#FISH">FISH.</a></p> + +<div class="tocwidth"> +<span class="tocleft">Stewed Salmon</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#STEWED_SALMON">59</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Roasted Salmon</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#ROASTED_SALMON">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Broiled Salmon</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#BROILED_SALMON">60</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Salt Cod Fish</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#SALT_COD-FISH">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Broiled Fresh Mackerel</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#BROILED_FRESH_MACKEREL">61</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Broiled Fresh Shad</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#BROILED_FRESH_SHAD">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Hashed Fish</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#HASHED_FISH">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Lobster Pie</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#LOBSTER_PIE">62</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Oyster Loaves</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#OYSTER_LOAVES">ib.</a></span> +</div> + +<p class="toctitle"><a href="#VEGETABLES">VEGETABLES.</a></p> + +<div class="tocwidth"> +<span class="tocleft">Stewed Lettuce</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#STEWED_LETTUCE">65</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Stewed Spinach</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#STEWED_SPINACH">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Stewed Cucumbers</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#STEWED_CUCUMBERS">66</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Stewed Beets</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#STEWED_BEETS">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Stewed Carrots</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#STEWED_CARROTS">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Stewed Cabbage</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#STEWED_CABBAGE">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Stewed Peas</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#STEWED_PEAS">67</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Stewed Beans</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#STEWED_BEANS">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Stewed Onions</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#STEWED_ONIONS">68</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Onions stewed in Wine</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#ONIONS_STEWED_IN_WINE">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Stewed Mushrooms</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#STEWED_MUSHROOMS">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Stewed Potatoes</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#STEWED_POTATOES">69</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Stewed Potatoes with Turnips</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#STEWED_POTATOES_WITH_TURNIPS">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Asparagus with Cream</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#ASPARAGUS_WITH_CREAM">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[viii]</a></span>Potatoes stewed whole</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#POTATOES_STEWED_WHOLE">70</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Fried Potatoes</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#FRIED_POTATOES">70</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Fried Cauliflower</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#FRIED_CAULIFLOWER">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Fried Celery</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#FRIED_CELERY">71</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Broiled Mushrooms</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#BROILED_MUSHROOMS">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Stuffed Cabbage (Choux farcis)</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#STUFFED_CABBAGE">72</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Stuffed Potatoes</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#STUFFED_POTATOES">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Stuffed Cucumbers</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#STUFFED_CUCUMBERS">73</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Stuffed Tomatas</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#STUFFED_TOMATAS">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Cauliflowers with Cheese</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#CAULIFLOWERS_WITH_CHEESE">74</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Ragooed Cabbage</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#RAGOOED_CABBAGE">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Ragooed Mushrooms</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#RAGOOED_MUSHROOMS">75</a></span> +</div> + +<p class="toctitle"><a href="#PUREES">PURÉES.</a></p> + +<div class="tocwidth"> +<span class="tocleft">Purée of Turnips</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#PUREE_OF_TURNIPS">76</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Purée of Celery</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#PUREE_OF_CELERY">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Purée of Onions</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#PUREE_OF_ONIONS">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Purée of Mushrooms</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#PUREE_OF_MUSHROOMS">77</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Purée of Beans</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#PUREE_OF_BEANS">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Purée of Green Peas</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#PUREE_OF_GREEN_PEAS">78</a></span> +</div> + +<p class="toctitle"><a href="#EGGS_c">EGGS, &c.</a></p> + +<div class="tocwidth"> +<span class="tocleft">Boiled eggs</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#BOILED_EGGS">79</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Fried Eggs</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#FRIED_EGGS">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Stewed Eggs</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#STEWED_EGGS">80</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Stuffed Eggs</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#STUFFED_EGGS">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Egg Snow</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#EGG_SNOW">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Pancakes</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#PANCAKES">81</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Omelets</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#OMELETS">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Maccaroni</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#MACCARONI">82</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Maccaroni Pie</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#MACCARONI_PIE">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Blancmange in Eggs</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#BLANCMANGE_IN_EGGS">83</a></span> +</div> + +<p class="toctitle"><a href="#PASTRY_CAKES_c">PASTRY, CAKES, &c.</a></p> + +<div class="tocwidth"> +<span class="tocleft">French <a name="corr4" id="corr4"></a>Paste</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#FRENCH_PASTE">87</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Puff-Paste</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#PUFF_PASTE">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Cream Tarts</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#CREAM_TARTS">88</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Almond Tarts</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#ALMOND_TARTS">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Rissoles</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#RISSOLES">89</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Almond Custards</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#ALMOND_CUSTARDS">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Vanilla Custards</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#VANILLA_CUSTARDS">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Chocolate Custards</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#CHOCOLATE_CUSTARDS">90</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[ix]</a></span>Coffee Custards</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#COFFEE_CUSTARDS">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Tea Custards</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#TEA_CUSTARDS">91</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Rice Pottage</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#RICE_POTTAGE">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Apple Fritters</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#APPLE_FRITTERS">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Bread Fritters</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#BREAD_FRITTERS">92</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Rice Cake</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#RICE_CAKE">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Potato Cake</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#POTATO_CAKE">93</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Sponge Cake, or Biscuit</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#SPONGE_CAKE">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Croquettes</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#CROQUETTES">94</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Marguerites</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#MARGUERITES">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Wafers</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#WAFERS">95</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Gingerbread</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#GINGERBREAD">96</a></span> +</div> + +<p class="toctitle"><a href="#PREPARATIONS_OF_FRUIT_SUGAR_c">PREPARATIONS OF FRUIT, SUGAR, &c.</a></p> + +<div class="tocwidth"> +<span class="tocleft">An Apple Charlotte</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#AN_APPLE_CHARLOTTE">99</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Apple Compote</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#APPLE_COMPOTE">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Compote of Pears</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#COMPOTE_OF_PEARS">100</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Compote of Chestnuts</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#COMPOTE_OF_CHESTNUTS">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Fried Apples</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#FRIED_APPLES">101</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Peach Marmalade</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#PEACH_MARMALADE">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Brandy Peaches</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#BRANDY_PEACHES">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Gooseberry Pottage</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#GOOSEBERRY_POTTAGE">102</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Fruit Jellies</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#FRUIT_JELLIES">103</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Preserved Pumpkin</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#PRESERVED_PUMPKIN">104</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Preserved Raspberries</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#PRESERVED_RASPBERRIES">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Orange Jelly</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#ORANGE_JELLY">105</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Clarified Sugar</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#CLARIFIED_SUGAR">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Fruit in Sugar Coats</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#FRUIT_IN_SUGAR_COATS">106</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Burnt Almonds</span> <span class="tocright"><a name="corr5" id="corr5"></a><a href="#BURNT_ALMONDS">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Peppermint Drops</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#PEPPERMINT_DROPS">107</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Chocolate Drops</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#CHOCOLATE_DROPS">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Nougat</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#NOUGAT">108</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Orgeat Paste</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#ORGEAT_PASTE">109</a></span> +</div> + +<p class="toctitle"><a href="#LIQUEURS">LIQUEURS.</a></p> + +<div class="tocwidth"> +<span class="tocleft">Noyau</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#NOYAU">110</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Raspberry Cordial</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#RASPBERRY_CORDIAL">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Rose Cordial</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#ROSE_CORDIAL">111</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Quince Cordial</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#QUINCE_CORDIAL">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Lemon Cordial</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#LEMON_CORDIAL">ib.</a></span> +</div> + +<p class="toctitle"><a href="#MISCELLANEOUS_RECEIPTS">MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.</a></p> + +<div class="tocwidth"> +<span class="tocleft">French Coffee</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#FRENCH_COFFEE">115</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x">[x]</a></span>Coffee without boiling</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#COFFEE_WITHOUT_BOILING">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Chocolate</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#CHOCOLATE">116</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Fine Lemonade</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#FINE_LEMONADE">117</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Punch</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#PUNCH">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Convenient Lemonade</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#CONVENIENT_LEMONADE">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">French Mustard</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#FRENCH_MUSTARD">113</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Potato Flour</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#POTATO_FLOUR">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Cold Pickles</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#COLD_PICKLES">ib.</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Cornichons or Cucumber Pickles</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#CORNICHONS">119</a></span><br> +<span class="tocleft">Fine Cologne Water</span> <span class="tocright"><a href="#FINE_COLOGNE_WATER">120</a></span> +</div> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="divisionhead"><a name="PART_THE_FIRST" id="PART_THE_FIRST"></a>PART THE FIRST.</h2> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span></p> + + +<hr class="chapbreak"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span></p> + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="SOUPS" id="SOUPS"></a>SOUPS.</h3> + +<hr class="decshort"> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BEEF_SOUP" id="BEEF_SOUP"></a>BEEF SOUP.</h4> + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> best soup is made of the lean of fine fresh beef. The proportion is +four pounds of meat to a gallon of water. It should boil at least six +hours. Mutton soup may be made in the same manner.</p> + +<p>Put the meat into cold water, with a little salt; set it over a good +fire; let it boil slowly but constantly, and skim it well. When no more +fat rises to the top, put in what quantity you please of carrots, +turnips, leeks, celery, and parsley, all cut into small pieces; add, if +you choose, a laurel-leaf, or two or three peach-leaves, a few cloves, +and a large burnt onion, to heighten the color of the soup. Grate a +large red carrot, and strew it over the top. Then continue to let it +boil, gently but steadily, till dinner time. Next to the quantity and +quality of the meat, nothing is more necessary to the excellence of soup +than to keep the fire moderate, and to see that it is boiling all the +time, but not too fast.</p> + +<p>Have ready in the tureen some toasted bread, cut into small squares; +pour the soup over the bread, passing it through a sieve, so as to +strain it thoroughly. Some, however, prefer serving it up with all the +vegetables in it.</p> + +<p>The soup will be improved by boiling in it the remains of a piece of +cold roast beef. Soups made of veal, chickens, &c. are only fit for +invalids.</p> + +<p>After you have strained out the vegetables, you may put into the soup +some vermicelli (allowing two ounces to each quart), and then boil it +ten minutes longer.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span></p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CONSOMME" id="CONSOMME"></a>CONSOMMÉ, OR JELLY SOUP.</h4> + +<p>Into two quarts of cold water, put four pounds of the lean of the best +beef-steaks, and a large fowl cut into pieces, four large carrots, four +onions, four leeks, a bunch of sweet herbs (parsley, thyme, sweet +marjoram, sweet basil, and chives), tied up with a laurel-leaf, or two +peach-leaves, and four cloves; add a little salt and pepper. Boil it +gently for eight hours, skimming it well; then strain it.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PEASE_SOUP" id="PEASE_SOUP"></a>PEASE SOUP.</h4> + +<p>Take two quarts of dried split peas, the evening before you intend +making the soup, and putting them into lukewarm water, let them soak all +night. In the morning, put the peas into a pan or pot with three quarts +of cold water, a pound of bacon, and a pound of the lean of fresh beef. +Cut up two carrots, two onions, and two heads of celery, and put them +into the soup, with a bunch of sweet herbs, and three or four cloves. +Boil it slowly five or six hours, till the peas can no longer be +distinguished, having lost all shape and form; then strain it, and serve +it up.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MACCARONI_SOUP" id="MACCARONI_SOUP"></a>MACCARONI SOUP.</h4> + +<p>First make some good beef soup (without any vegetables), and when it is +sufficiently boiled, strain it through a sieve. Take some maccaroni, in +the proportion of half a pound to two quarts of soup. Boil it in water +until it is tender, adding to it a little butter. Then lay it on a sieve +to drain, and cut it into small pieces. Throw it into the soup, and boil +all together ten minutes or more. Grate some rich cheese over it before +you send it to table.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span></p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHESTNUT_SOUP" id="CHESTNUT_SOUP"></a>CHESTNUT SOUP.</h4> + +<p>Having made some beef soup without vegetables, strain it, and put in a +pint of peeled chestnuts for each quart of soup. Boil it again till the +chestnuts have gone all to pieces, and have become a part of the liquid.</p> + +<p>A still better way is, to roast or bake the chestnuts first, (having cut +a slit in the shell of each,) then peel them, and throw them into the +soup ten minutes before you take it from the fire.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ALMOND_SOUP" id="ALMOND_SOUP"></a>ALMOND SOUP.</h4> + +<p>Take half a pound of shelled sweet almonds, and two ounces of shelled +bitter almonds, or peach-kernels. Scald them, to make the skins peel off +easily, and when they are blanched, throw them into cold water. Then +drain and wipe them dry. Beat them (a few at a time) in a marble mortar, +adding as you beat them, a little milk and a little grated lemon-peel.</p> + +<p>Have ready two quarts of rich milk, boiled with two sticks of cinnamon +and a quarter of a pound of sugar. Stir the almonds gradually into the +milk, and let them have one boil up. Prepare some slices of toasted +bread, take out a little of the soup and soak them in it. Then lay them +in the bottom of a tureen, and pour the soup over them. Grate on some +nutmeg.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="LOBSTER_SOUP" id="LOBSTER_SOUP"></a>LOBSTER SOUP.</h4> + +<p>Having boiled a large lobster, extract all the meat from the shell. Fry +in butter some thin slices of bread, put them into a marble mortar, one +at a time, alternately with some of the meat of the lobster, and pound +the whole to a paste till it is all<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span> done. Then melt some butter in a +stew-pan, and put in the mixed bread and lobster. Add a quart of boiling +milk, with salt, mace, and nutmeg to your taste. Let the whole stew +gently for half an hour.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="OYSTER_SOUP" id="OYSTER_SOUP"></a>OYSTER SOUP.</h4> + +<p>Take two quarts of oysters; drain them, and cut out the hard part. Have +ready a dozen eggs, boiled hard; cut them in pieces, and pound them in a +mortar alternately with the oysters. Boil the liquor of the oysters with +a head of celery cut small, two grated nutmegs, a tea-spoonful of mace, +and a tea-spoonful of cloves, with two tea-spoonfuls of salt, and a +tea-spoonful of whole pepper. When the liquor has boiled, stir in the +pounded eggs and oysters, a little at a time. Give it one more boil, and +then serve it up.</p> + +<p>Salt oysters will not do for soup.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="GREEN_PEAS_SOUP" id="GREEN_PEAS_SOUP"></a>GREEN PEAS SOUP.</h4> + +<p>Make a good beef soup, with the proportion of <a name="corr6" id="corr6"></a>four pounds of lean beef +to a gallon of water. Boil it slowly, and skim it well. In another pot +boil two quarts of green peas, with a large bunch of mint, a little +salt, and three or four lumps of loaf sugar. When they are quite soft, +take them out, strain them from the water, and mash them in a cullender +till all the pulp drips through. Then stir it into the soup after you +have taken it up and strained it. Prepare some toasted bread cut into +small squares, lay it in a tureen, and pour the soup over it.</p> + +<p>When you toast bread for soups, stews, &c. always cut off the crust.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak"> +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="GRAVIES_OR_ESSENCES" id="GRAVIES_OR_ESSENCES"></a>GRAVIES, OR ESSENCES.</h3> + +<hr class="decshort"> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BROWN_GRAVY" id="BROWN_GRAVY"></a>BROWN GRAVY. (<span class="smcap">Jus.</span>)</h4> + +<p><span class="smcap">Put</span> into a sauce-pan, or skillet, five or six onions, and as many +carrots cut into small pieces, with about two pounds of scraps of beef, +in which there must be none of the fat. Pour over them a pint of water. +Cover the pan, and begin with a brisk fire. When the gravy has become +brown, add a little boiling water (or broth if you have it), with a +tea-spoonful of salt, three or four cloves, and a bunch of sweet herbs. +Diminish the fire, and let the gravy stew gently for an hour and a half. +Occasionally prick the meat with a fork, and press it with the back of a +spoon to extract its juices. Then strain it through a sieve, and let it +stand a while before you use it.</p> + +<p>In addition to the beef, you may put in pieces of cold goose, or cold +duck.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="WHITE_GRAVY" id="WHITE_GRAVY"></a>WHITE GRAVY. (<span class="smcap">Coulis.</span>)</h4> + +<p>Butter the bottom of a sauce-pan, and put in two pounds of scraps of +veal, and, if you have it at hand, some cold fowl, or cold turkey; add +two white onions, and four or five blades of mace; pour over it a pint +of boiling water, or broth; cover the pan, and set it over a slow fire +for five or six hours, pricking and pressing the meat with a fork and +spoon. Strain it through a sieve, and if it is too thin, set it again +over the fire, to stew a while longer.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ESSENCE_OF_GAME" id="ESSENCE_OF_GAME"></a>ESSENCE OF GAME.</h4> + +<p>Take scraps of any kind of game (partridges, pheasants, hares, &c.), and +also four calves feet,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span> and a few small pieces of ham. Put them all into +a stew-pan, with half a bottle of white wine, two carrots, two onions, +and a bunch of sweet herbs. Stew them over a slow fire for four hours, +and when they are reduced to a jelly, moisten it with four +table-spoonfuls of hot water, or broth, stirred in gently. Strain it +through a sieve, and then clear it by stirring in the whites of three +eggs slightly beaten.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TO_CLARIFY_GRAVIES" id="TO_CLARIFY_GRAVIES"></a>TO CLARIFY GRAVIES, OR ESSENCES</h4> + +<p>Having strained your gravy through a sieve, beat slightly the whites of +three eggs, and stir them into it. Place it again on the fire, and stir +it till it comes to a boil; then take it from the fire, and put it away +to settle. Strain it then through a napkin, and you will have a +transparent jelly excellent for making fine sauces.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="VELOUTE" id="VELOUTE"></a>VELOUTÉ, OR VELVET ESSENCE.</h4> + +<p>Take half a pound of scraps of veal, the same quantity of pieces of +fowls, and twelve or fifteen mushrooms; stew them slowly in butter, and +then add two onions, half a carrot, and a bunch of sweet herbs cut +small, three table-spoonfuls of flour, three of boiling water or broth, +and salt, pepper, and nutmeg to your taste. Let it stew an hour and a +half, and then strain it.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak"> +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="SAUCES_c" id="SAUCES_c"></a>SAUCES, &c.</h3> + +<hr class="decshort"> + +<p><span class="smcap">When</span> sauces are finished with eggs, use only the yolks, and mix them +first with but a spoonful or two of the sauce; mix them off the fire. +Set on the pan again for two or three moments, but do not let it boil +after the eggs are in.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BECHAMEL" id="BECHAMEL"></a>BECHAMEL.</h4> + +<p>Put into a sauce-pan a quarter of a pound of butter sprinkled with +flour, three or four onions, and a carrot cut small, a little parsley, +and a dozen mushrooms. Set it over the fire until the butter is melted, +and then add three table-spoonfuls of flour stirred into a pint of cream +or rich milk, with salt, pepper, and nutmeg to your taste. Stir it till +it boils; then reduce the fire, and let the bechamel stew gently for +three quarters of an hour. When it is done, strain it, and then stir in +the yolks of three eggs.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ANOTHER_BECHAMEL" id="ANOTHER_BECHAMEL"></a>ANOTHER BECHAMEL.</h4> + +<p>Cut into dice, or small square pieces, half a pound of bacon or ham, a +carrot, a turnip, and two onions. Put them into a sauce-pan, with two +large spoonfuls of veal-dripping; add a little butter (about two +ounces), and two large spoonfuls of flour. Moisten it with boiling +water, or broth. Add nutmeg, cloves, thyme, parsley, salt, and pepper to +your taste; also a laurel-leaf. Let it stew for an hour. Strain it, and +before you serve it up, squeeze in a little lemon-juice.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="DRAWN_BUTTER" id="DRAWN_BUTTER"></a>DRAWN BUTTER.</h4> + +<p>Put into a small pan a table-spoonful of flour and a tumbler of water, +with salt to your taste,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span> and a little pepper. Stir it till it boils. +Then withdraw it from the fire, and add two ounces of butter and a few +drops of cold water, with a little lemon-juice, or vinegar. Set it on +the stove, or near the fire, and keep it warm till it is wanted.</p> + +<p>You may thicken it while boiling with mushrooms, cut small; or after it +is done with hard eggs chopped fine, pickled cucumbers chopped, or +capers.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MELTED_BUTTER" id="MELTED_BUTTER"></a>MELTED BUTTER—<i>another way</i>.</h4> + +<p>Put into a sauce-pan a quarter of a pound of butter. When quite melted +over the fire, throw in a large spoonful of flour, and add a half pint +of boiling water, and salt to your taste. Boil it a few minutes, and +then put in a tea-spoonful of cold water. If intended as sauce for a +pudding, stir in at the last a glass of white wine, and half a grated +nutmeg.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COLD_SAUCE_FOR_FISH" id="COLD_SAUCE_FOR_FISH"></a>COLD SAUCE FOR FISH.</h4> + +<p>Cut small, and pound in a mortar, equal proportions of parsley, chervil, +tarragon, chives and burnet, with two yolks of hard-boiled eggs. Pass +these ingredients through a cullender, and then mix them on a plate with +four table-spoonfuls of sweet oil, two of vinegar, and two of mustard. +Use a wooden spoon.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SAUCE_FOR_VEGETABLES" id="SAUCE_FOR_VEGETABLES"></a>SAUCE FOR VEGETABLES—SUCH AS ASPARAGUS, &c.</h4> + +<p>Take the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs; mash them on a plate with the +back of a wooden spoon, and mix them with three table-spoonfuls of +vinegar, a shalot or small onion minced fine, and a little salt and +Cayenne pepper. Add three table-spoonfuls of olive oil, and mix the +whole very well.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span></p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PUNGENT_SAUCE" id="PUNGENT_SAUCE"></a>PUNGENT SAUCE. (<span class="smcap">Sauce Piquante.</span>)</h4> + +<p>Put into a saucepan a half-pint of vinegar, a branch of thyme, two or +three sprigs of sweet marjoram, a leaf of laurel, a clove of garlic, a +shalot or a little onion, and Cayenne pepper and salt to your taste. Add +a glass of broth or gravy. Stew the whole slowly till it is reduced to +two thirds of the original quantity: then strain it.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ANCHOVY_SAUCE" id="ANCHOVY_SAUCE"></a>ANCHOVY SAUCE—FOR FISH.</h4> + +<p>Cut the flesh of three anchovies into small shreds, and steep them in +vinegar for half an hour or more. Then mince them fine, and throw them +into a saucepan with a little butter rolled in flour. Add pepper and +mustard to your taste. Pour in sufficient vinegar to cover it, and let +it boil gently for a quarter of an hour. Strain it, and squeeze in a +little lemon-juice before you serve it up.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CURRY_SAUCE" id="CURRY_SAUCE"></a>CURRY SAUCE.</h4> + +<p>Put into a sauce-pan two ounces of butter and a table-spoonful of +curry-powder (or of powdered turmeric if more convenient), half a grated +nutmeg, half a spoonful of saffron, and two spoonfuls of flour. Add +sufficient boiling water or broth to cover it, and let it stew a quarter +of an hour. Strain it, stir in a little more butter, and serve it up.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TOMATA_SAUCE" id="TOMATA_SAUCE"></a>TOMATA SAUCE.</h4> + +<p>Bake ten tomatas, with pepper and salt, till they become like a +<a name="corr7" id="corr7"></a>marmalade. Then add a little flour or grated bread crumbs, and a little +broth or hot<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span> water. Stew it gently ten minutes, and before you send it +to table add two ounces of butter and let it melt in the sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CUCUMBER_SAUCE" id="CUCUMBER_SAUCE"></a>CUCUMBER SAUCE.</h4> + +<p>Put into a sauce-pan a piece of butter rolled in flour, some salt, +pepper, and one or two pickled cucumbers minced fine. Moisten it with +boiling water. Let it stew gently a few minutes, and serve it up.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BREAD_SAUCE" id="BREAD_SAUCE"></a>BREAD SAUCE.</h4> + +<p>Take four ounces of grated stale bread; pour over it sufficient milk to +cover it, and let it soak about three quarters of an hour, or till it +becomes incorporated with the milk. Then add a dozen corns of black +pepper, a little salt, and a piece of butter the size of a walnut. Pour +on a little more milk, and give it a boil. Serve it up in a sauce-boat, +and eat it with roast wild fowl, or roast pig.</p> + +<p>Instead of the pepper, you may boil in it a hand full of dried currants, +well picked, washed, and floured.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SAUCE_ROBERT" id="SAUCE_ROBERT"></a>SAUCE ROBERT.</h4> + +<p>Put into a sauce-pan a quarter of a pound of butter, with a spoonful of +flour. Simmer them till of a fine brown color. Mince half a dozen large +onions, and a large slice of cold ham. Put them into the pan, with +another piece of butter, and a very little broth or warm water. Skim the +sauce well, and let it stew gently for twenty minutes. Before you serve +it up, stir in a table-spoonful of lemon-juice or vinegar, and a +tea-spoonful of mustard. This sauce is used chiefly for fresh pork, or +white poultry.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span></p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SHALOT_OR_ONION_SAUCE" id="SHALOT_OR_ONION_SAUCE"></a>SHALOT OR ONION SAUCE. (<span class="smcap">Sauce Ravigote.</span>)</h4> + +<p>Take a handful of sweet herbs and the same quantity of shalots or little +onions, and cut them up small. Put them into a sauce-pan, with some +vinegar, salt, pepper, and sufficient broth or warm water to cover them. +Let them boil gently for a quarter of an hour. Take the sauce from the +fire and set it on the stove, or on the hearth, and stir in (till it +melts) a piece of butter rolled in flour, or a spoonful of olive oil.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="UNIVERSAL_SAUCE" id="UNIVERSAL_SAUCE"></a>UNIVERSAL SAUCE.</h4> + +<p>Take a pint of good broth, or a pint of drawn butter. Stir into it a +glass of white wine, and half the peel of a lemon grated. Add a laurel +leaf, or two or three peach-leaves, and a spoonful of vinegar. Let the +mixture simmer on a few coals or on hot ashes, for five or six hours or +more, and it will be good to pour over either meat, poultry, or fish, +and will keep several days in a cool place.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="LOBSTER_SAUCE" id="LOBSTER_SAUCE"></a>LOBSTER SAUCE.</h4> + +<p>The lobster being boiled, extract the meat from the shell, and beat it +in a mortar. Rub it through a cullender or sieve, and put it into a +sauce-pan with a spoonful of velouté (or velvet essence) if you have it, +and one of broth. Mix it well, and add a piece of butter, some salt, and +some Cayenne pepper. Stew it ten minutes, and serve it up, to eat with +boiled fresh fish.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span></p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SPINACH_FOR_COLORING_GREEN" id="SPINACH_FOR_COLORING_GREEN"></a>SPINACH FOR COLORING GREEN.</h4> + +<p>Take three handfuls of spinach, and pound it in a mortar to extract the +juice. Then put it into a sauce-pan and set it over a slow fire. When it +is just ready to boil, take it off and strain it. By stirring in a small +quantity of spinach-juice, you may give any sauce a green color.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="GARLIC_BUTTER" id="GARLIC_BUTTER"></a>GARLIC BUTTER.</h4> + +<p>Take two large cloves of garlic and pound them to a paste in a mortar, +adding, by degrees, a piece of butter the size of an egg. You may with a +little of this butter give the taste of garlic to sauces. Some persons +like a piece of garlic butter on the table, to eat with roast meat.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="HAZELNUT_BUTTER" id="HAZELNUT_BUTTER"></a>HAZELNUT BUTTER.</h4> + +<p>Having scalded and blanched some hazelnuts, pound them to a paste in a +mortar, adding gradually a small quantity of butter.</p> + +<p>This is good to eat with wild fowl, or to flavor the most delicate +sauces.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="LARDING" id="LARDING"></a>LARDING.</h4> + +<p>Larding with slips of fat bacon greatly improves the taste and +appearance of meat, poultry, game, &c. and is much used in French +cookery.</p> + +<p>For this purpose, you must have a larding-pin (which may be purchased at +the hardware stores); it is a steel instrument about a foot in length, +sharp at one end, and cleft at the other into four divisions<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span> which are +near two inches long, and resembling tweezers.</p> + +<p>Bacon is the proper meat to lard with; the fat only is used. Cut it into +slips not exceeding two inches in length, half an inch in breadth, and +half an inch in thickness, and smaller if intended for poultry; they +will diminish in cooking. Put these slips of bacon (one at a time) into +the cleft or split end of the larding-pin. Give each slip a slight twist +and press it down hard into the pin, with your fingers. Then run the pin +through the meat or fowl (avoiding the bones), and when you draw it out +on the under side it will have left the slip of bacon sticking in the +upper side. Take care to arrange the slips in regular rows and at equal +distances; have them all of the same size, and let every one stick up +about an inch from the surface of the meat. If any are wrong, take them +out and do them over again.</p> + +<p>Fowls and birds are generally larded on the breast only. To lard +handsomely and neatly, practice and dexterity are requisite.</p> + +<p>Cold poultry may be larded with slips of the fat of cold boiled ham, and +when not to be cooked again, it may be made to look very tastefully.</p> + +<p>The slips for cold poultry should be very small, scarcely thicker than a +straw.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="divisionhead"><a name="PART_THE_SECOND" id="PART_THE_SECOND"></a>PART THE SECOND.</h2> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span></p> + + +<hr class="chapbreak"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span></p> + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="MEATS" id="MEATS"></a>MEATS.</h3> + +<hr class="decshort"> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="VEAL_A_LA_MODE" id="VEAL_A_LA_MODE"></a>VEAL À LA MODE.</h4> + +<p><span class="smcap">Rub</span> a fillet of veal all over with salt, and then lard it. Make a +seasoning of chopped sweet-herbs, shalots, mushrooms, pepper, salt, and +powdered nutmeg, and mace. Moisten it with sweet oil, and cover the veal +all over with it. Put the veal into a tureen, and let it set for several +hours or all night. Then take it out, covered as it is with the +seasoning, and wrap it in two sheets of white paper, well buttered, and +roast or bake it. When it is quite done, take off the paper, and scrape +off all the seasoning from the veal. Put the seasoning into a sauce-pan +with the gravy, the juice of half a lemon, a piece of butter rolled in +flour, and a little salt. Give it a boil, skim it well, and pour it over +the veal.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="VEAL_CUTLETS" id="VEAL_CUTLETS"></a>VEAL CUTLETS.</h4> + +<p>Make a seasoning of grated bread, minced ham, chopped parsley, salt, +pepper, and chopped mushrooms if you have them. Mix with it some yolk of +egg. Cut the veal into small thin slices, rub them all over with lard, +and then spread the seasoning over both sides. Wrap up each cutlet +carefully in white paper, oiled or buttered. Bake them slowly for three +quarters of an hour, and serve them up in the papers.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span></p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BLANQUETTE_OR_FRICASSEE_OF_VEAL" id="BLANQUETTE_OR_FRICASSEE_OF_VEAL"></a>BLANQUETTE OR FRICASSEE OF VEAL.</h4> + +<p>Take the remains of a cold roast fillet, or loin of veal. Cut it into +small thin pieces. Put them into a stew-pan with a piece of butter +rolled in flour, salt, pepper, a few small onions minced, a bunch of +sweet-herbs chopped, and one or two laurel or peach-leaves. Mix all +together. Pour in a little warm water, and let it boil gently five +minutes or more. When you take it off, stir in some lemon-juice and some +yolk of egg slightly beaten.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="GODIVEAU" id="GODIVEAU"></a>GODIVEAU.</h4> + +<p>Take a large piece of fillet of veal, free from fat or skin. Mince it +small, and then pound it in a mortar till it is a smooth paste. +Afterwards rub it through a cullender or sieve.</p> + +<p>Soak some slices of bread in warm milk, and rub the bread also through a +sieve. There must be an equal quantity of bread and veal. Take the same +proportion of butter, and beat it in a mortar with pepper, salt, nutmeg, +and chopped parsley to your taste. Then put all together. Beat two or +three eggs till very light, and add them gradually to the mixture. Make +it into round balls or into long rolls, and fry them in butter. Or you +may put it into a pie (without a lid) and bake it.</p> + +<p>Godiveau is a very fine stuffing for poultry or wild fowl.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CALVES_LIVER_BAKED" id="CALVES_LIVER_BAKED"></a>CALVES’ LIVER BAKED.</h4> + +<p>Lard the liver with bacon, and let it lie three or four hours in a +covered tureen with a seasoning of parsley, shalots, laurel and thyme +chopped small, a little pepper and salt, and two table-spoonfuls of +sweet oil. Turn it several times. Then<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span> wrap it up in thin slices of +bacon or cold ham, and bake or roast it about an hour and a quarter. Add +to the gravy the yolk of an egg, and some minced onions and chopped +sweet-herbs.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CALVES_LIVER_FRIED" id="CALVES_LIVER_FRIED"></a>CALVES’ LIVER FRIED.</h4> + +<p>Cut the liver into thin slices, and put them into a frying-pan with a +piece of butter rolled in <a name="corr8" id="corr8"></a>flour, some minced onions and a glass of white +wine, salt, pepper, and a little mace. Let it fry about <a name="corr9" id="corr9"></a>ten minutes.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="VEAL_KIDNEYS" id="VEAL_KIDNEYS"></a>VEAL KIDNEYS.</h4> + +<p>Cut the kidneys into thin slices; having first soaked them in cold +water, rub them with a little salt and pepper. Then sprinkle them with +flour, and a little parsley and onions minced fine. Fry them in butter, +adding a glass of champagne or other white wine.</p> + +<p>Mutton kidneys may be done in the same manner.</p> + +<p>Another way of dressing kidneys is to split them in half, season them +with salt and pepper, lard them, and broil them.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="GRILLADES" id="GRILLADES"></a>GRILLADES.</h4> + +<p>Cut slices from either a fillet of veal, a round of fresh beef, a leg of +mutton, or a leg of pork. Do not let them exceed the thickness of half +an inch. Put them into a stew-pan with a sufficient proportion of oil, +pepper, salt, and a little parsley and onion chopped fine. Stew them in +a very little water till half done. Then prepare some sheets of white +paper rubbed with oil or butter. Take out the slices of meat (covered +with this seasoning) and grate some bread crumbs over them.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span> Fasten up +each slice in a piece of paper, and broil them on a gridiron over a slow +fire. Serve them up in the paper.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="LIVER_CAKE" id="LIVER_CAKE"></a>LIVER CAKE.</h4> + +<p>Take a pound and a half of grated bread, and two pounds of liver (either +calves’ or pigs’) a few onions, a little sage, some mushrooms, and a +laurel leaf, all chopped fine. Mince the liver also, and mix it with the +other ingredients, adding salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Butter a mould or a +very deep dish. Put the mixture into it, and let it bake an hour and a +half in a moderate oven. When done, turn it out.</p> + +<p>It is eaten cold, cut in slices.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SIRLOIN_OF_BEEF" id="SIRLOIN_OF_BEEF"></a>SIRLOIN OF <a name="corr10" id="corr10"></a>BEEF.</h4> + +<p>Rub your beef all over with salt, and lard the lean part of it with +slips of fat bacon. Cover the meat with sheets of oiled or buttered +paper. Roast it in proportion to its size, between three and four hours.</p> + +<p>Serve it up with its gravy, and have some onion sauce in a boat.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STEWED_BEEF" id="STEWED_BEEF"></a>STEWED BEEF.</h4> + +<p>Take some slices of cold roast beef that has been under-done. Put them +into a stew-pan with a little gravy or broth, or if you have neither, +some warm water. Add a piece of butter rolled in flour, some capers, or +some pickled cucumbers chopped small, a little lemon-juice or vinegar, +and some salt and pepper. Let the beef simmer slowly, but do not allow +it to boil. Have ready some slices of bread (of the same size as the +slices of beef) and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span> fry them in butter. Put some tomata sauce in the +bottom of a dish. Lay on it in a pile a few slices of beef and slices of +fried bread alternately. Pour the gravy over it, and send it to table.</p> + +<p>Any other sort of meat may be done in the same manner.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BEEF_STEAKS" id="BEEF_STEAKS"></a>BEEF STEAKS.</h4> + +<p>Cut slices of beef from the sirloin. Trim them neatly, and take off the +bone and the skin. To make them tender beat them on both sides with a +wooden beetle or with the end of a rolling-pin. Rub them with salt and +pepper. Warm a sufficient quantity of butter, and when it is soft spread +it over the steaks. Then sprinkle them with onions minced very fine. +Cover them up in a dish, and let them lie an hour or more in the +seasoning. Then broil them over a clear fire. Slice some cold boiled +potatoes, fry them in butter, and lay <a name="corr11" id="corr11"></a>them round the steaks.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BEEF_A_LA_MODE" id="BEEF_A_LA_MODE"></a>BEEF À LA MODE.</h4> + +<p>Take a round of fresh beef, and beat it well to make it tender. Rub it +all over with salt and pepper. Lard it on both sides with slips of +bacon. Lay it in a deep pan with some slices of bacon, a calves-foot, a +few onions, a carrot cut in pieces, a bunch of sweet herbs cut small, +one or two laurel leaves, some cloves, and a beaten nutmeg. Pour in a +half-pint of red wine, a half-pint of white wine, and a spoonful of +brandy. Let it stew slowly for at least six hours. Then take it out; +strain the gravy, pour it over the meat, and serve it up.</p> + +<p>A fillet of veal may be done in the same manner.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span></p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ROASTED_HAM" id="ROASTED_HAM"></a>ROASTED HAM.</h4> + +<p>Let your ham soak all night in cold water, and then trim it handsomely, +having first taken out the bone by loosening the meat all round it, with +the point of a knife. Tie a broad tape round the ham to keep it in +shape. Then put it into a large pan with some sliced onions, some sprigs +of parsley, two or three laurel leaves, and a bottle of white wine. +Cover it, and let it lie in the seasoning twenty-four hours. Then roast +it, and baste it with the seasoning. A large ham will require four or +five hours to roast. A little before it is done, take off the skin and +sprinkle the ham with grated bread crumbs.</p> + +<p>While the ham is roasting, stew together the bone and the trimmings and +scraps till they come to a jelly, which you must strain through a sieve. +When you take the ham from the spit (having removed the tape that has +been fastened round it) glaze it all over with the jelly, laid on with a +brush or a quill feather. Serve it up with the seasoning or marinade +under it.</p> + +<p>If the ham is to be eaten cold, you may cover it all over the glazing +with cold boiled potatoes grated finely, so that it will look like a +large cake covered with icing. Ornament it with slices of boiled carrot, +beets, &c. scolloped and laid on the potatoes, in handsome forms, so as +to look like red and yellow flowering. Stick a large bunch of double +parsley in the centre.</p> + +<p>A ham boiled in the usual manner may be ornamented in the same way; +first extracting the bone, and making the meat into a circular shape.</p> + +<p>Instead of a mere bunch of double parsley, you may stick in the centre +of the ham a nosegay of flowers, formed of different culinary +vegetables, and cut into proper shape with a sharp <a name="corr12" id="corr12"></a>pen-knife.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span> All these +vegetables must be raw. The flowers intended to represent red roses must +be made of beets, the white roses of turnips, and the marigolds or other +deep yellow flowers must be cut out of carrots. The pieces of turnips +and beets must first be made with the pen-knife into the form of a ball, +on the surface of which the rose-leaves must be cut. The carrots may be +cut into flat slices, and then notched to look like marigolds or +chrysanthemums. Stick each flower on the end of a small wooden skewer, +which will answer for the stalk, but which must be concealed by thick +bunches of double parsley tied on so as to represent the green leaves. +Tie all the skewers together at the bottom with a pack-thread, and the +whole will have the effect of a handsome nosegay when placed in the +middle of the ham.</p> + +<p>A round of cold à -la-mode beef may be ornamented with a bunch of these +flowers. Let the beef itself be covered all over with parsley, so as to +resemble a green bank.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRIED_HAM" id="FRIED_HAM"></a>FRIED HAM, WITH TOMATAS.</h4> + +<p>Fry some slices of cold boiled ham. Then fry some tomatas, allowing one +tomata to each slice of meat. Lay the tomatas on the ham, shake some +pepper over them, and send them to table.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ROASTED_TONGUE" id="ROASTED_TONGUE"></a>ROASTED TONGUE.</h4> + +<p>Having soaked a large smoked tongue all night in cold water, parboil it +in a very little warm water with a slice of bacon, a bunch of sweet +herbs, and an onion or two stuck with cloves. When it is nearly done, +take it out, drain it, and lard it with large slips of bacon on the +upper side,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span> and small pieces on the under side. Then put it on the spit +and roast it half an hour, and serve it up with pungent sauce (Sauce +Piquante.)</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BAKED_TONGUE" id="BAKED_TONGUE"></a>BAKED TONGUE.</h4> + +<p>Take a cold boiled tongue and cut it into slices. Put in the bottom of a +deep dish a little vinegar, with some capers, parsley and shalots minced +fine, and some grated bread, all mixed together. Lay the slices of +tongue upon this, and cover them with some more of the same seasoning. +Then grate some bread all over the top. Moisten the whole by pouring in +a little warm water. Put the dish into a stove moderately heated, or set +it on a slow furnace. Bake it till brown.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="POTTED_TONGUE" id="POTTED_TONGUE"></a>POTTED TONGUE.</h4> + +<p>Boil two smoked tongues. Skin them and cut them into thin slices. Put +the slices (a few at a time) into a mortar and beat them to a paste, +adding gradually a pound of butter. Then prepare an equal quantity of +the lean of stewed veal, and pound that also in the mortar (a little at +a time) with the same proportion of butter. Then make the veal and the +tongue into lumps, and put them alternately into your stone pots, +pressing them together so as to look like red and white marble. Have a +layer of veal at the top. Press the whole down very hard. Fill up the +pots with butter, boiled and skimmed and poured on warm. Tie them up +closely with parchment, and keep them in a cold but dry place.</p> + +<p>When you use it, cut it in slices.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span></p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="LEG_OF_MUTTON_WITH_OYSTERS" id="LEG_OF_MUTTON_WITH_OYSTERS"></a>LEG OF MUTTON WITH OYSTERS.</h4> + +<p>Rub a leg of mutton all over with salt, and put it on the spit to roast +with a clear fire, basting it with its own gravy. When it is nearly +done, take it up and with a sharp knife make incisions all over it, and +stuff an oyster into every hole. Then put it again before the fire, to +finish roasting.</p> + +<p>Before you serve it up, skim the gravy well, and give it a boil with a +glass of red wine.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CUTLETS_A_LA_MAINTENON" id="CUTLETS_A_LA_MAINTENON"></a>CUTLETS À LA MAINTENON.</h4> + +<p>Cut a neck of mutton into chops, leaving a bone to each, but scraping +the end of the bone quite clean. Mix together some grated bread, and +some marjoram and onion chopped fine. Season it with pepper, salt, and +nutmeg. Having melted some butter, dip each chop into it, and then cover +them on both sides with the seasoning. Butter some half-sheets of white +paper, and put the cutlets into them, leaving the end of each bone to +stick out of the paper like a handle. Lay them on a gridiron, and broil +them for about twenty minutes on clear lively coals. Serve them up in +the papers.</p> + +<p>Make a sauce of four shalots or little onions chopped fine, some gravy, +a little pepper and salt, and a spoonful of red wine. Boil this sauce +for a minute, and send it up in a boat.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PORK_CUTLETS" id="PORK_CUTLETS"></a>PORK CUTLETS.</h4> + +<p>Mince together some onions, parsley, and a laurel leaf. Season it with +pepper, salt, and cloves. Cut your pork into thin steaks, and lay them +in this<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span> seasoning for five or six hours. Then broil or fry them with +the seasoning on them, and serve them up with sauce Robert, or with +tomata sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="LARDED_RABBIT" id="LARDED_RABBIT"></a>LARDED RABBIT.</h4> + +<p>Lard a fine large rabbit, and put it into a stew-pan with a slice or two +of cold ham, a bunch of sweet-herbs, a table-spoonful of sweet oil, and +a gill of white wine. Stew it slowly, and, when it is quite done, strain +the gravy and pour it over the rabbit.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RABBITS_IN_PAPERS" id="RABBITS_IN_PAPERS"></a>RABBITS IN PAPERS.</h4> + +<p>Take two young rabbits; cut off the limbs and put them aside. Cut the +flesh from the body, and chop it very fine, mixing it with shalots, +parsley, and mushrooms chopped also, and, if you choose, a clove of +garlic. Season it with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and moisten it with +sweet oil. Lay the legs of the rabbit in this mixture, for three or four +hours. Then take out separately each leg covered with the seasoning, lay +on it a thin slice of bacon or cold ham, and wrap it in a sheet of white +paper well buttered. Broil the limbs slowly on the gridiron, and serve +them up hot in the papers.</p> + +<p>Fowls may be done in the same manner. Ducks also.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PILAU" id="PILAU"></a>PILAU.</h4> + +<p>Take half a dozen slices of the lean of a leg of mutton, or of fillet of +veal. Put them into a stew-pan with six large onions, a carrot cut in +pieces, and some parsley, with pepper, salt, and nutmeg to your taste. +Add a tea-spoonful of saffron, a piece<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span> of butter rolled in flour, and a +little boiling water. Let it stew for an hour, and skim it well.</p> + +<p>Have ready a pound of rice boiled soft and drained. Mix with it a large +piece of butter. Put some rice in the bottom of a deep dish, and lay on +it first the seasoning, and then the slices of meat in a pile. Keep the +remainder of the rice over it, and set it on the stove or in the oven +for ten minutes.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="VEAL_SWEETBREADS" id="VEAL_SWEETBREADS"></a>VEAL SWEETBREADS.</h4> + +<p>Take three sweet-breads, and soak them three or four hours in milk. Then +wipe them dry, and lard them. Make a seasoning of sweet-herbs and +mushrooms chopped fine, a quarter of a pound of cold ham or bacon +scraped or minced, salt, pepper, and nutmeg to your taste, and a +table-spoonful of sweet-oil. Mix the seasoning very well together, and +put it into a stew-pan with the sweet-breads, a piece of butter rolled +in flour, a little water or broth, and the same quantity of wine. Stew +it about ten minutes. Then take out the sweet-breads, lay them in a deep +dish, pour the seasoning over them, and let them get cold. Next prepare +some cases of white paper, oil them, and cover the inside with grated +bread. Put a sweet-bread into each paper-case, with some of the +seasoning at bottom and top. Close the cases, put them in an oven, and +bake them long enough to color the sweet-breads. Serve them up in the +papers.</p> + +<p>Set the gravy over the fire, and when it simmers take it off, and stir +in the yolk of an egg slightly beaten. Keep it covered for a few +minutes, and then serve it up in a boat.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="divisionhead"><a name="PART_THE_THIRD" id="PART_THE_THIRD"></a>PART THE THIRD.</h2> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span></p> + +<hr class="chapbreak"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span></p> + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="GAME_AND_POULTRY" id="GAME_AND_POULTRY"></a>GAME AND POULTRY.</h3> + +<hr class="decshort"> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="A_SALMI" id="A_SALMI"></a>A SALMI.</h4> + +<p><span class="smcap">Cut</span> off the flesh from the bodies of a pair of cold pheasants, +partridges or wild-ducks, or an equal quantity of small birds. Beat it +in a mortar, moistening it frequently with a little broth or gravy. Then +pass the whole through a cullender or sieve. Put it into a stew-pan with +a piece of butter about the size of a walnut, rolled in flour; half a +pint of port wine or claret; two whole onions, and a bunch of +sweet-herbs. Let it boil half an hour, and then stir in two +table-spoonfuls of sweet oil, and the juice of a lemon.</p> + +<p>In another pan stew the legs and wings of the birds, but do not let them +boil. Stew them in butter rolled in flour, seasoned with pepper and +salt. Cut some slices of bread into triangular pieces, and fry them in +butter. Lay them in the bottom of a dish, put the legs and wings upon +them, and then the other part of the stew. Garnish the edge with slices +of lemon, handsomely notched with a knife.</p> + +<p>If the Salmi is made of partridges, use oranges instead of lemons for +the juice and garnishing.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COLD_SALMI" id="COLD_SALMI"></a>COLD SALMI.</h4> + +<p>This is prepared on the table. Take the liver of a roast goose, turkey, +or ducks. Put some of the gravy on a plate, cut up the liver in it, and +bruise it with the back of a spoon or a silver fork.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span> Add three +tea-spoonfuls of olive oil, the juice of a lemon, and cayenne pepper and +salt to your taste. Mix it well. When the bird is cut up, eat with it +some of this sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RAGOOED_LIVERS" id="RAGOOED_LIVERS"></a>RAGOOED LIVERS.</h4> + +<p>Take the livers of half a dozen fowls or other poultry, a dozen +mushrooms, a bunch of sweet herbs, a clove of garlic or a small onion, a +table-spoonful of butter rolled in flour. Add a glass of white wine, and +sufficient warm water to keep the ingredients moist. Season it with salt +and pepper. Stew all together, and skim it well. Before you send it to +table, stir in the yolks of two or three beaten eggs, and two spoonfuls +of cream.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="A_FINE_HASH" id="A_FINE_HASH"></a>A FINE HASH.</h4> + +<p>Take any cold game or poultry that you have. You may mix several kinds +together. Some sausages, of the best sort, will be an improvement. Chop +all together, and mix with it bread crumbs, chopped onions and parsley, +and the yolks of two or three hard-boiled eggs. Put it into a sauce-pan +with a proportionate piece of butter rolled in flour. Moisten it with +broth, gravy, or warm water, and let it stew gently for half an hour.</p> + +<p>Cold veal or fresh pork may be hashed in the same manner.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MARINADE_OF_FOWLS" id="MARINADE_OF_FOWLS"></a>MARINADE OF FOWLS.</h4> + +<p>Take a pair of fowls, skin and cut them up. Wash them in lukewarm water. +Drain them, and put them into a stew-pan with some butter. Season them +to your taste with salt, pepper, and lemon-juice.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span> Add parsley, onions, +and a laurel leaf. Moisten them with warm water, and let them stew +slowly on hot coals for two or three hours. Clear them from the +seasoning and drain them. Then lay them in a dish, and grate bread +crumbs over them. Whip some white of egg to a stiff froth, and cover +with it all the pieces of fowl.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRICASSEE_OF_FOWLS" id="FRICASSEE_OF_FOWLS"></a>FRICASSEE OF FOWLS.</h4> + +<p>Skin and cut up your fowls, and soak them two hours in cold water, to +make them white. Drain them. Put into a stew-pan a large piece of +butter, and a table-spoonful of flour. Stir them together till the +butter has melted. Add salt, pepper, a grated nutmeg, and a bunch of +sweet-herbs. Pour in half a pint of cream. Put in the fowls, and let +them stew three quarters of an hour. Before you send them to table, stir +in the yolks of three beaten eggs, and the juice of half a lemon.</p> + +<p>The Fricassee will be greatly improved by some mushrooms stewed with the +fowl.</p> + +<p>To keep the fricassee white, cover it (while stewing) with a sheet of +buttered paper laid over the fowls. The lid of the stew-pan must be kept +on tightly.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FOWLS_WITH_TARRAGON" id="FOWLS_WITH_TARRAGON"></a>FOWLS WITH TARRAGON.</h4> + +<p>Pick two handfuls of tarragon (the leaves from the stalks) and chop half +of it fine with the livers of the fowls. Mix it with butter, salt, and +whole pepper. Stuff your fowls with it. Lard them and wrap them in +papers buttered or oiled.</p> + +<p>Melt some butter rolled in flour, and stir into it the rest of the +tarragon. Moisten it with a little water or milk. Stir in the yolks of +two beaten<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span> eggs, and the juice of half a lemon. Serve it up as gravy. +Strew over the fowls some sprigs of fresh tarragon.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="A_STEWED_FOWL" id="A_STEWED_FOWL"></a>A STEWED FOWL.</h4> + +<p>Take a large fowl, and put it into a stew-pan with two ounces or more of +butter, some thin slices of cold ham, a little parsley and onion chopped +fine, and some nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Then pour in half a tumbler of +white wine. You may add, if you choose, six table-spoonfuls of boiled +rice, which you must afterwards serve up under the fowl and ham. Let it +stew slowly for two hours, with just sufficient water to keep it from +burning.</p> + +<p>Before you send it to table, go all over the fowl with a feather or +brush dipped in yolk of egg. You may add to the stew a dozen small +onions, to be laid round the fowl with the slices of ham.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHICKENS_IN_JELLY" id="CHICKENS_IN_JELLY"></a>CHICKENS IN JELLY.</h4> + +<p>Cold chickens, pigeons, and game, look very handsome in jelly. To make +this jelly, take four calves-feet (with the skin on) and boil them to a +strong jelly with an ounce of isinglass and three quarts of water, +carefully skimming off the fat. The calves-feet must be boiled the day +before the jelly is wanted, and when it is cold scrape off all the +sediment that adheres to it. Then boil the jelly with the addition of +the whites and shells of six eggs, the juice of three lemons, three or +four sticks of cinnamon, half a pound of loaf-sugar, and a pint of +Malaga or other sweet wine. Let it boil hard for five or six minutes, +but do not stir it. Strain it several times through a flannel bag into a +deep white pan, but do not on any consideration squeeze or press the +bag, as that will entirely spoil<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span> the transparency of the jelly. After +it has done dripping through the bag, take out all the ingredients (as +they are now of no farther use) and wash the bag clean. Then pour the +jelly into it again, and let it strain. Repeat this till it is perfectly +clear and bright; washing the bag every time. Sometimes (but not often) +it will be clear at the first straining.</p> + +<p>Put a little of the jelly into the bottom of a deep dish or bowl, and +set it in a cold place. When it has congealed and is firm, lay your +chickens on it with the breasts downwards. Having kept the remainder of +the jelly warm, to prevent its congealing too soon, pour it over the +fowls. Let it stand all night or till it is perfectly firm. Then set +your dish or bowl in warm water for a moment, to loosen the jelly. Lay +over it the dish in which you intend to serve it up, and turn it out +carefully. If you fear that you will not be able to turn it out without +breaking the jelly, you may prepare it at the beginning in a deep china +dish fit to send to table.</p> + +<p>If you put too much water to the calves-feet, the jelly will never be +firm, till it is boiled over again with more isinglass. The generality +of cooks are in the habit of putting too much water to every thing, and +should be cautioned accordingly.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PULLED_CHICKENS" id="PULLED_CHICKENS"></a>PULLED CHICKENS.</h4> + +<p>Boil a pair of fowls till they are about half done. Then skin them, and +pull the flesh from the bones in pieces about a finger in breadth and +half a finger in length. Take a few table-spoonfuls of the liquor they +were boiled in, and mix it with half a pint of boiling cream. Put it +into a stew-pan with a piece of butter rolled in flour; pepper, salt, +and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span> nutmeg; a little chopped parsley; and a table-spoonful of white +wine. Put in the pieces of chicken, and stew them slowly till quite +done.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STEWED_TURKEY" id="STEWED_TURKEY"></a>STEWED TURKEY, OR TURKEY EN DAUBE.</h4> + +<p>Take a large turkey; lard it and stuff it as for roasting. Then cover it +all over with a seasoning made of salt, pepper, nutmeg, and sweet-herbs, +parsley and onions, minced fine. Put it into a stew-pan, with some +slices of bacon, one or two calves-feet, some onions and carrots, one or +two laurel leaves, a few cloves, a beaten nutmeg, salt, pepper, and, if +you choose, a clove of garlic. Pour in a pint of water, and a pint of +white wine or brandy.</p> + +<p>Put on the cover of the stew-pan, and lay round its edge on the outside +a wet cloth, which must be kept wet. Stew it slowly for five or six +hours or more, and turn the turkey when about half done. When it is +finished, withdraw the fire, and skim and strain the gravy. Serve up the +turkey with the gravy under it.</p> + +<p>A goose done this way is very fine.</p> + +<p>A round of beef may be stewed in the same manner. It will be the better +for lying all night in the seasoning, and it should be put in to stew +early in the morning.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ROASTED_TURKEY" id="ROASTED_TURKEY"></a>ROASTED TURKEY.</h4> + +<p>Rub the turkey all over with salt. Then lard it. You may stuff it with +sausage-meat; or with chestnuts previously boiled, peeled, and mashed. +Or, you may make a force-meat stuffing of the liver, heart, and gizzard, +chopped fine, and mixed with chopped parsley, onions, sweet-herbs, +grated bread, butter, lemon-juice, grated lemon-peel, and the yolk of +one or two eggs.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span></p> + +<p>A turkey of moderate size will require at least two hours to roast. +Thicken the gravy with yolk of egg stirred in just before you send it to +table.</p> + +<p>A cold roast turkey should be larded and served up with large spoonfuls +of stiff currant jelly dropped all over it.</p> + +<p>You may roast a goose in the same manner.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="POTTED_GOOSE" id="POTTED_GOOSE"></a>POTTED GOOSE.</h4> + +<p>Take several fine geese; rub them with salt, and put into each a handful +of sage leaves. Roast them about an hour. Do not baste them, but save +all the fat in the dripping-pan, emptying it as it is filled. When you +have taken the geese from the spit, cut off the legs and wings, and cut +the flesh from the breast in slices. Set them away to get cold.</p> + +<p>Put the fat that has dripped from the geese into a kettle, with about +half as much lard as there is of the dripping. Boil it ten minutes. Have +ready a tall stone jar, or more than one if necessary. Lay two legs of +the geese side by side in the bottom, and sprinkle them with salt and +pepper; placing, if you choose, a laurel leaf on each. Then put in two +wings, and season them also. Next a layer of the slices cut from the +breast, seasoned in the same manner. When the pots are almost full of +the goose, fill them up to the top with the boiling fat, and set them +away till the next day to get cold. The upper layer must be covered at +least an inch thick with the fat.</p> + +<p>Tie up the pots with covers of parchment wet with brandy, and keep them +in a cold but not in a damp place.</p> + +<p>In France great numbers of geese are fattened for this purpose.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span></p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="DUCKS_WITH_TURNIPS" id="DUCKS_WITH_TURNIPS"></a>DUCKS WITH TURNIPS.</h4> + +<p>Stew some turnips with butter, salt, and a little sugar. When soft, take +them out and drain them. Cut up your ducks, season them, and put them +into the same pan that has held the turnips. Stew the ducks with a piece +of butter rolled in flour, a little water, and a bunch of sweet-herbs +tied up. When the ducks are nearly done, put the turnips in again, and +let all stew slowly together for ten minutes, skimming it well. Withdraw +the sweet-herbs before you send the dish to table.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="A_DUCK_WITH_OLIVES" id="A_DUCK_WITH_OLIVES"></a>A DUCK WITH OLIVES.</h4> + +<p>Having larded your duck, stew it whole, with butter, pepper, salt, and a +little water. Take half a pint of olives, cut them in half and take out +the seeds or stones. When the duck is nearly done, throw in the olives, +and let all stew together about five minutes or more. Serve up the duck +with the olives round it.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="A_DUCK_WITH_PEAS" id="A_DUCK_WITH_PEAS"></a>A DUCK WITH PEAS.</h4> + +<p>Stew the duck whole, with some lard and a little salt, till about half +done. Then take it out and drain it. Put into the stew-pan a large piece +of butter rolled in flour. When it has melted, pour in a quart of +shelled green peas, and add a bunch of mint, or other sweet herbs, and +some pepper and salt. Then put in the duck, adding a little warm water. +Let it stew slowly till quite done, skimming it well.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span></p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TURKEY_PUDDINGS" id="TURKEY_PUDDINGS"></a>TURKEY PUDDINGS.</h4> + +<p>Mince thirty small onions and mix them with an equal quantity of bread +crumbs that have been soaked in milk. Chop an equal quantity of the +flesh of cold turkey. Mix all together, and pound it very well in a +mortar. Pass it through a cullender, and then return it to the mortar +and beat it again, adding gradually the yolks of six hard eggs, and a +pint of cream or half a pound of butter. Season it to your taste with +salt, mace and nutmeg.</p> + +<p>Have ready some skins, nicely cleaned as for sausages. Fill the skins +with the mixture, and tie up the ends. Then simmer your puddings, but do +not let them boil. Take them out, drain them, and put them away to get +cold.</p> + +<p>When you wish to cook them for immediate use prick them with a fork, +wrap them in buttered paper, and broil them on a gridiron.</p> + +<p>Similar puddings may be made of cold fowls.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BAKED_PIGEONS" id="BAKED_PIGEONS"></a>BAKED PIGEONS, OR PIGEONS À LA CRAPAUDINE.</h4> + +<p>Split the pigeons down the back. Take out the livers, which you must +mince with bacon and sweet-herbs, adding to them the livers of fowls or +other birds, if you have them, and bacon in proportion. Or you may +substitute sausage-meat. Add bread-crumbs soaked in milk, and the yolks +of two eggs or more, with salt, pepper, mace and nutmeg to your taste. +Mix all together, and stuff your pigeons with it, and then glaze them +all over with beaten white of egg. Place them in a buttered pan, and set +them in the oven. Bake them half an hour. Before you serve them up, +squeeze some lemon-juice into the gravy.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span></p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BROILED_PIGEONS" id="BROILED_PIGEONS"></a>BROILED PIGEONS.</h4> + +<p>Split your pigeons and flatten them. Make a seasoning of sweet oil, +salt, pepper, chopped shalots, and chopped parsley. Rub this seasoning +all over the pigeons. Then cover them with grated bread crumbs. Wrap +each in a sheet of white paper, and broil them on a slow fire. Serve +them up with a sauce made of minced onions, butter rolled in flour, +lemon-juice or vinegar, and salt and pepper.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PIGEONS_PEAR-FASHION" id="PIGEONS_PEAR-FASHION"></a>PIGEONS PEAR-FASHION. (<span class="smcap">Pigeons au Poire.</span>)</h4> + +<p>First, bone your pigeons. To do this, take a sharp knife, and slipping +it under the flesh carefully loosen it from the bone, and do not tear +the skin. Begin at the upper part of the bird, just above the wings, +scrape gradually down, and finish at the legs. Then take hold of the +neck, and draw out the whole skeleton at once. Make a good force-meat or +stuffing (as directed for baked pigeons), and fill them with it, making +them each into the shape of a large pear. Fasten them with skewers. +Glaze them all over with yolk of egg, and then roll them in grated +bread-crumbs. Stick in the top of each, the lower end of the leg, to +look like the stem of a pear. Lay them in a buttered dish (but not so +close as to touch each other) and bake them. Make a good gravy, +thickened with the yolk of an egg, and some butter rolled in flour.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PIGEONS_WITH_PEAS" id="PIGEONS_WITH_PEAS"></a>PIGEONS WITH PEAS.</h4> + +<p>Take two or four pigeons (according to their size), and truss them with +the feet inwards. Put them into a stew-pan with a piece of butter +rolled<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span> in flour, and two or three slices of cold ham, or bacon, and a +little water. Let them stew gently till brown. Then add a quart of green +peas, and a bunch of mint, with another piece of butter, and a little +warm water or milk. Let them stew slowly, and when they are quite done, +stir in some more butter. Serve up the pigeons with the peas under them.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ROASTED_PARTRIDGES" id="ROASTED_PARTRIDGES"></a>ROASTED PARTRIDGES.</h4> + +<p>Lard the partridges, and put in the inside of each a laurel leaf, and an +orange cut in pieces. If you omit the laurel leaf, do not peel the +orange, but put in the pieces with the rind on them. These must be taken +out before the partridges are sent to table. Be careful not to roast +them too much.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PARTRIDGES_WITH_CABBAGE" id="PARTRIDGES_WITH_CABBAGE"></a>PARTRIDGES WITH CABBAGE.</h4> + +<p>Having trussed the partridges, put them into a stew-pan with a large +piece of butter rolled in flour; a quarter of a pound of bacon or ham +cut into dice; a bunch of sweet-herbs, and a little warm water. Put into +another stew-pan a fine Savoy cabbage, with a pint of the dripping of +beef or pork. Let it stew slowly till nearly done. Then take out the +cabbage and drain it, and put it into the stew-pan to cook with the +partridges for half an hour. Lay the cabbage under the partridges when +you send them to table.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="A_PARTRIDGE_PIE" id="A_PARTRIDGE_PIE"></a>A PARTRIDGE PIE.</h4> + +<p>Take three pair of large partridges and truss them as you do fowls. Rub +them all over with a mixture of pepper, salt, powdered mace and +powdered<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span> nutmeg. Take a pound of fat bacon and two pounds of lean veal, +and cut them into small pieces. Put them into a stew-pan with a quarter +of a pound of butter. Add a bunch of sweet-herbs, and a few shalots or +small onions, all minced fine. Stew them till the meat seems to be quite +done, and then put it into a cullender to drain. Afterwards put the meat +into a mortar, season it with pepper, salt, nutmeg and mace, and pound +it to a smooth paste; moistening it at times with some of the liquor in +which it was stewed.</p> + +<p>Prepare a rich paste, and spread a sheet of it over the bottom of a +large and deep buttered dish. Put in the partridges, side by side, pour +in a little water, add a piece of butter, and cover them with the +pounded meat. Lay on the top a few slices of cold ham. Roll out a thick +piece of paste for the lid, and cover the pie with it; cutting the edges +into square notches, and folding over the half of each notch. Ornament +the lid with leaves and flowers made of paste. Bake it three hours, and +see that the oven is not so hot as to scorch it. When done, glaze it all +over with white of egg.</p> + +<p>This pie will be greatly improved by the addition of some truffles. If +you cannot procure truffles, mushrooms cut in pieces may be substituted.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ROASTED_PHEASANTS" id="ROASTED_PHEASANTS"></a>ROASTED PHEASANTS.</h4> + +<p>Make a stuffing of fresh raw oysters, chopped, and seasoned with pepper, +salt, nutmeg, and mace. Mix with it some sweet oil, some yolk of egg, +and fill the pheasants with this stuffing. Cover the pheasants with thin +slices of bacon or cold ham; wrap them in buttered sheets of white +paper, and roast them. Serve them up with oyster sauce.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span></p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BROILED_QUAILS" id="BROILED_QUAILS"></a>BROILED QUAILS.</h4> + +<p>Split the quails down the back, and flatten them. Put them into a +stew-pan with sweet-oil, salt, pepper, and a leaf or two of laurel. +Cover them with thin slices of bacon or ham, and let them stew slowly on +hot coals. When nearly done, take them out, strew over them grated +breadcrumbs, and broil them on a gridiron.</p> + +<p>Put into the stew-pan a little warm water, and scrape down whatever +adheres to the sides; skim it, and let it come to a boil. Pour this +gravy into the dish in which you serve up the quails, and lay the bacon +round it.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ROASTED_PLOVERS" id="ROASTED_PLOVERS"></a>ROASTED PLOVERS.</h4> + +<p>Scald and pick your plovers, but do not draw them. Lard them, and lay +slices of toasted bread in the dripping-pan to receive what falls from +the birds while roasting. Serve them up with the toast under them.</p> + +<p>Woodcocks and snipes are roasted in the same manner.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="divisionhead"><a name="PART_THE_FOURTH" id="PART_THE_FOURTH"></a>PART THE FOURTH</h2> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span></p> + + +<hr class="chapbreak"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span></p> + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="FISH" id="FISH"></a>FISH.</h3> + +<hr class="decshort"> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STEWED_SALMON" id="STEWED_SALMON"></a>STEWED SALMON.</h4> + +<p><span class="smcap">Pour</span> a half-pint of white wine into a stew-pan, with some sliced +carrots, onions, and mushrooms; pepper, salt, and mace; and a bunch of +chopped sweet-herbs. Lay in your piece of fresh salmon, and pour over it +some more wine. Stew it slowly for an hour or more. When done, serve it +up with the sauce that is under it, and also with some sauce Mayonnaise +in a boat.</p> + +<p>The sauce Mayonnaise is made as follows:— Put into a small tureen the +yolks of two beaten eggs, a little salt and Cayenne pepper, and a very +little vinegar. Stir and mix it well; then add (a drop at a time) two +table-spoonfuls of sweet-oil, stirring all the while. When it is well +mixed, stir in gradually some more vinegar. To stir and mix it +thoroughly will require a quarter of an hour. It will then be very +delicate.</p> + +<p>You may color it green by adding a little juice of spinach, or some +chopped parsley or tarragon at the first, when you put in the eggs.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ROASTED_SALMON" id="ROASTED_SALMON"></a>ROASTED SALMON.</h4> + +<p>A large piece of fresh salmon is very fine roasted on a spit, first +rubbing it with salt, and then basting it all the time with sweet-oil or +butter.</p> + +<p>For roasted salmon, make a sauce as follows:—Put into a sauce-pan a +little parsley, a shalot or small onion, a few mushrooms, and a piece of +butter rolled in flour, pepper, salt, and a gill or more<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span> of white wine. +Let these ingredients boil for half an hour; then strain them through a +sieve, and mix with the sauce a table-spoonful of olive-oil.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BROILED_SALMON" id="BROILED_SALMON"></a>BROILED SALMON.</h4> + +<p>Cut several slices of fresh salmon; soak them an hour in a mixture of +sweet-oil, chopped parsley, and shalots minced fine, with salt and +pepper. Then take each slice with the seasoning on it, and wrap it in +buttered paper. Broil the slices on a gridiron. When thoroughly done, +take off the paper, and serve up the salmon with melted butter and +capers.</p> + +<p>Any other large fish may be dressed like salmon.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SALT_COD-FISH" id="SALT_COD-FISH"></a>SALT COD-FISH.</h4> + +<p>Let it soak twenty-four hours in cold water, which must be changed +several times, and every time you change it pour in a wine-glass of +vinegar, which will greatly improve the fish. Boil the cod till +thoroughly done; then cut the flesh into very small slips; mix it with +parsley, butter, vinegar, Cayenne pepper, nutmeg, and mace; add to the +mixture some boiled onions, mashed potatoes, and the yolks of two or +three beaten eggs. Put the whole mixture into a deep dish, and make it +up into the form of a thick round cake. Go all over it with a bunch of +feathers, or a small brush, dipped in sweet-oil; and then grate bread +crumbs all over it. Set it in the oven till brown. Serve it up, +surrounded with triangular or three-cornered slices of toast, dipped in +melted butter.</p> + +<p>Halibut may be dressed in the same manner, putting salt in the water +when you boil it, and also in the seasoning.</p> + +<p>Fresh cod may be cooked in the same way.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span></p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BROILED_FRESH_MACKEREL" id="BROILED_FRESH_MACKEREL"></a>BROILED FRESH MACKEREL.</h4> + +<p>Split your mackerel down the back; season it with pepper and salt; cover +it all over with oil or butter, and let it lay for half an hour or more; +then broil it, pouring on it whatever of the seasoning may be left in +the dish.</p> + +<p>Serve it up, with sauce in a boat. Let the sauce be of melted butter, +with parsley, and a little lemon-juice, or vinegar.</p> + +<p>Or you may broil the mackerel whole, having first seasoned it as above, +and wrapped it in oiled paper.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BROILED_FRESH_SHAD" id="BROILED_FRESH_SHAD"></a>BROILED FRESH SHAD.</h4> + +<p>Having split the shad in half, cover it all over with a seasoning of +oil, pepper, salt, chopped onions, parsley, and laurel-leaf. Let it lie +an hour or two in the seasoning. Then broil it, covered with the +seasoning, and adding a piece of butter.</p> + +<p>Or you may cook the shad whole. Make a stuffing of the above +ingredients, with the addition of some grated bread; put the stuffing +into the shad, and bake it, first pouring over it a glass of white wine.</p> + +<p>Any large fresh fish may be baked in the same manner.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="HASHED_FISH" id="HASHED_FISH"></a>HASHED FISH.</h4> + +<p>Take any sort of cold fish, bone it, and then chop it with the remains +of a cold omelet, and some mushrooms if you have them. Mix with it some +chopped parsley, a little butter, a slice of bread soaked in milk, and +the yolks of two or three hard-boiled eggs chopped fine. Mix all +together, and season with pepper and salt. Stew it gently with a little +water for half an hour.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span></p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="LOBSTER_PIE" id="LOBSTER_PIE"></a>LOBSTER PIE.</h4> + +<p>Having boiled your lobster, take out the meat from the shell, season it +with salt, mustard, Cayenne pepper, and vinegar, and beat it well in a +mortar. Then stir in a quarter of a pound of butter, the yolks of two +beaten eggs, and two ounces or more of grated bread crumbs. Make some +puff-paste, put in the mixture, and cover it with a lid of paste +ornamented with leaves or flowers of the same. Bake it slowly.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="OYSTER_LOAVES" id="OYSTER_LOAVES"></a>OYSTER LOAVES.</h4> + +<p>Have ready some small loaves or rolls of bread. Cut a round piece out of +the top of each, and scoop out the crumb or soft part. Take the liquor +of your oysters, put into it the crumbs, with a little chopped celery, +and a large piece of butter. As soon as it boils, pour the liquor over +the oysters, and this will cook them sufficiently. Fill your loaves with +the oysters, putting into each a tea-spoonful of cream. Lay on again the +piece of crust that was cut out of the top of each loaf or roll, and set +them in the oven for a few minutes.</p> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="divisionhead"><a name="PART_THE_FIFTH" id="PART_THE_FIFTH"></a>PART THE FIFTH.</h2> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span></p> + + +<hr class="chapbreak"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span></p> + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="VEGETABLES" id="VEGETABLES"></a>VEGETABLES.</h3> + +<hr class="decshort"> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STEWED_LETTUCE" id="STEWED_LETTUCE"></a>STEWED LETTUCE.</h4> + +<p><span class="smcap">Wash</span> a fine lettuce, and tie it up with a string passed several times +round it, to keep the leaves together. Put it in boiling water, with a +little salt. When the lettuce has boiled, take it out and press it to +squeeze out the water, but be careful not to break it.</p> + +<p>Having mixed, in a stew-pan, a large spoonful of butter with a spoonful +of flour, add half a pint of cream or rich milk; put in the lettuce, +with a very little salt, half a nutmeg grated, and two lumps of sugar. +Let it boil ten minutes. Take out the lettuce, stir the yolks of two +beaten eggs into the sauce, and serve all up together.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STEWED_SPINACH" id="STEWED_SPINACH"></a>STEWED SPINACH.</h4> + +<p>Take young spinach, and throw it into boiling water with some salt. When +it has boiled, take it out, drain it, and lay it in cold water for a +quarter of an hour. Then drain it and squeeze it. Cut it small, and put +it into a stew-pan, with a large piece of butter. After it has stewed +slowly for a quarter of an hour, add a spoonful of flour, with a little +salt, sugar, and nutmeg. Moisten it with cream or milk, and let it +simmer again over a slow fire for another quarter of an hour. Then serve +it up, and lay on it slices of toasted bread dipped in melted butter.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span></p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STEWED_CUCUMBERS" id="STEWED_CUCUMBERS"></a>STEWED CUCUMBERS.</h4> + +<p>Lay your cucumbers in cold water for half an hour; then pare them, and +cut them into slips about as long as your little finger; take out the +seeds; then boil the cucumbers a few minutes, with a little salt. Take +them out, and drain them well.</p> + +<p>Put into a stew-pan some butter rolled in flour, and a little cream. +Stew your cucumbers in it for ten minutes. When you take them off, stir +in the yolks of two beaten eggs; and if you choose, a tea-spoonful of +vinegar.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STEWED_BEETS" id="STEWED_BEETS"></a>STEWED BEETS.</h4> + +<p>Boil some beets. Then peel and cut them into slices. Stew them for a +quarter of an hour with a piece of butter rolled in flour, some onion +and parsley chopped fine, a little vinegar, salt and pepper, and a clove +of garlic.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STEWED_CARROTS" id="STEWED_CARROTS"></a>STEWED CARROTS.</h4> + +<p>Scrape and wash your carrots. Scald them in boiling water; then drain +them, and cut them into long slips. Stew them in milk or cream, with a +little salt, pepper, and chopped parsley. When done, take them out, stir +into the sauce the yolks of one or two eggs, and a lump or two of +loaf-sugar, and pour it over the carrots.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STEWED_CABBAGE" id="STEWED_CABBAGE"></a>STEWED CABBAGE.</h4> + +<p>Having washed your cabbage, cut it in four, and throw it into boiling +water with some salt.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span> When it has boiled till quite tender, take it up, +squeeze out the water, and put the cabbage to drain. Then lay it in a +stew-pan with butter, salt, pepper, nutmeg, a spoonful of flour, and +half a pint of cream. Stew it a quarter of an hour, and pour the sauce +over it when you send it to table.</p> + +<p>Cauliflowers may be stewed in the same <a name="corr13" id="corr13"></a>manner.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STEWED_PEAS" id="STEWED_PEAS"></a>STEWED PEAS.</h4> + +<p>Take two quarts of green peas; put them into a stew-pan with a quarter +of a pound of butter, a bunch of parsley, and the heart of a fine +lettuce cut in pieces, a bunch of mint, three or four lumps of sugar, +some salt and pepper, and a very little water. Stir all together, set it +on coals and let it stew gently for an hour or an hour and a half. +Having taken out the parsley, add a piece of butter rolled in flour; and +stir in the yolks of two eggs just before you send it to table.</p> + +<p>You may, if you choose, put in the lettuce without cutting it in pieces; +tie it up with the bunch of parsley and two onions, and withdraw the +whole before you dish the peas. Serve up the lettuce in another dish.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STEWED_BEANS" id="STEWED_BEANS"></a>STEWED BEANS.</h4> + +<p>Put into a stew-pan some parsley and some chives or little onions +chopped fine, some mushrooms (if you have them) chopped also, and a +large piece of butter rolled in flour. Add a glass of white wine and a +little water. Stir all together, and then put in as many beans as will +fill a quart measure when strung and cut small; having first soaked them +a quarter of an hour in cold water. Let them stew gently on hot coals +till quite tender. Just before you serve them up, stir in the yolks of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span> +two eggs. You may substitute for the wine a tumbler of cream, but it +must be stirred in at the last.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STEWED_ONIONS" id="STEWED_ONIONS"></a>STEWED ONIONS.</h4> + +<p>Boil some small onions with salt, and then drain them. Lay them in a +stew-pan with a piece of butter, and sprinkle them with flour, pepper +and salt. Pour on them some cream, and then turn every onion with a +spoon. Stew them ten minutes, and serve them up.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ONIONS_STEWED_IN_WINE" id="ONIONS_STEWED_IN_WINE"></a>ONIONS STEWED IN WINE.</h4> + +<p>Boil twenty or thirty onions a quarter of an hour with a bunch of sweet +herbs, some salt, a few cloves, and a laurel leaf. Then take out the +onions, and put them into a stew-pan with some salt, a piece of butter +rolled in flour, and a pint of red wine. Stew them another quarter of an +hour, and serve them up garnished with pieces of toast dipped in the +sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STEWED_MUSHROOMS" id="STEWED_MUSHROOMS"></a>STEWED MUSHROOMS.</h4> + +<p>Having peeled and washed your mushrooms, drain them, and stew them with +butter, pepper, salt, and a little chopped parsley, adding a little +flour and warm water. When they are done, stir into the sauce the yolks +of two or three eggs, and some cream. Toast and butter a slice of bread. +Lay it on the dish under the mushrooms, and pour the sauce over them.</p> + +<p>Put in a small onion with the mushrooms, that you may know by its +turning almost black, whether there is a poisonous one among them. If +the onion turns black, throw away all the mushrooms.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span></p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STEWED_POTATOES" id="STEWED_POTATOES"></a>STEWED POTATOES.</h4> + +<p>Boil eight or nine large potatoes with a little salt, and then peel and +cut them in slices. Put into a stew-pan a large piece of butter, a +spoonful of flour, some salt, and half a grated nutmeg. Add a half-pint +of cream, and mix all together. When this sauce boils, put in your +sliced potatoes, and let them stew a quarter of an hour.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STEWED_POTATOES_WITH_TURNIPS" id="STEWED_POTATOES_WITH_TURNIPS"></a>STEWED POTATOES WITH TURNIPS.</h4> + +<p>Pare and boil an equal quantity of turnips and potatoes. When done, +drain and mash them. Melt some butter in a stew-pan, and add to it a +little mustard. Stew the mixed potatoes and turnips in it, with a small +quantity of hot milk, for about ten minutes.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ASPARAGUS_WITH_CREAM" id="ASPARAGUS_WITH_CREAM"></a>ASPARAGUS WITH CREAM.</h4> + +<p>Wash and boil four or five bundles of asparagus. Have ready a pint of +cream, or a pint of milk, with the yolks of six eggs stirred into it. +Take four large rolls of bread, and cut a round piece out of the top of +each. Scoop out the crumb from the inside of the rolls, and put it into +the cream with the heads of the asparagus, of which you must save out a +sufficient number (with a small piece of the stalk left on each) to +stick the rolls with. Make holes in the top-pieces of the rolls.</p> + +<p>Fry the rolls in butter. Put the most of the asparagus heads into the +cream mixed with the crumb of the rolls, and simmer it awhile over a +slow fire. When the rolls are fried, fill their cavities with the +mixture. Stick the tops with the remainder of the asparagus, and lay +them on the rolls.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span></p> + +<p>Asparagus may be simply boiled with salt, and served up on toasted bread +dipped in oil, and eaten with oil sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="POTATOES_STEWED_WHOLE" id="POTATOES_STEWED_WHOLE"></a>POTATOES STEWED WHOLE.</h4> + +<p>Boil two dozen small new potatoes, with some salt. Put into a stew-pan a +piece of butter rolled in flour, half the peel of a lemon grated, half a +nutmeg grated, some salt, two or three lumps of sugar, and three +tea-spoonfuls of sweet oil. Lay the potatoes in this mixture, squeeze +over them the juice of a lemon, and let them stew gently about ten +minutes.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRIED_POTATOES" id="FRIED_POTATOES"></a>FRIED POTATOES.</h4> + +<p>Make a batter with the yolks of three eggs, a little salt, a +table-spoonful of oil, a table-spoonful of brandy, and sufficient flour +or grated bread to thicken it. Have ready some large cold potatoes cut +in slices. Dip each slice in the batter, and fry them in butter.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRIED_CAULIFLOWER" id="FRIED_CAULIFLOWER"></a>FRIED CAULIFLOWER.</h4> + +<p>Wash a fine large cauliflower, and cut it into quarters. Having boiled +some water with salt, throw the cauliflower into it, and boil it till +you can nip it easily with your fingers. Take it out and drain it. Then +put it into a pan with salt, pepper and vinegar, and let it lie half an +hour, turning it frequently.</p> + +<p>Make the following batter, which must be prepared half an hour or more +before it is wanted, that it may have time to rise. Take three +table-spoonfuls of flour, three beaten eggs, a table-spoonful of butter +melted in a little warm water, a spoonful of sweet oil, and a spoonful +of <a name="corr14" id="corr14"></a>brandy.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span> Stir all together; and if you find it too thin, add a little +more flour; cover it, and let it set half an hour. Then beat to a stiff +froth the whites of the eggs, and stir them hard into the batter. Dip +your quarters of cauliflower into this mixture, and fry them of a fine +light brown.</p> + +<p>When the cauliflower is done, let it remain in the pan a quarter of an +hour before you send it to table. Lay fried parsley round it.</p> + +<p>Broccoli may be fried in the same manner.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRIED_CELERY" id="FRIED_CELERY"></a>FRIED CELERY.</h4> + +<p>Take ten or twelve fine stalks of celery. Cut them into pieces about six +inches long, and lay them an hour in salt and water. Drain them, spread +them on a dish, and sprinkle them with powdered sugar. Make a batter of +eggs, milk, and grated bread; allowing four eggs to a pint of milk. Dip +each piece of celery into the batter, and fry them in butter.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BROILED_MUSHROOMS" id="BROILED_MUSHROOMS"></a>BROILED MUSHROOMS.<a name="FNanchor_71-1_1" id="FNanchor_71-1_1" href="#Footnote_71-1_1" class="fnanchor">71-*</a></h4> + +<p>Peel, wash, and drain your mushrooms, and then cut them in pieces. Make +a square case of white paper, and butter it well. Fill it with the +mushrooms mixed with butter, salt, and pepper. Broil them on the +gridiron over a clear fire, and serve them up in the paper.</p> + +<p>If you choose, you may mix with the mushrooms some chopped onion and +sweet-herbs.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STUFFED_CABBAGE" id="STUFFED_CABBAGE"></a>STUFFED CABBAGE. (<span class="smcap">Choux farcis.</span>)</h4> + +<p>Take a large cabbage, with a hard full head; put it into boiling water +with some salt, and let it boil from five to ten minutes. Then take it +out and drain it. Cut off the stalk close to the bottom, so that the +cabbage may stand upright on the dish, and then carefully take out the +inside leaves or heart; leaving the outside leaves whole.</p> + +<p>Chop fine what you have taken out of the inside, and chop also some cold +ham and veal, or cold chicken. Likewise four eggs boiled hard. Mix +together the chopped eggs, the ham and veal, the cabbage heart, and some +grated bread, adding salt and pepper. Fill the cabbage with this +stuffing, and tie tape round it to keep the outside leaves together. +Then put it into a deep stew-pan, with a quarter of a pound of butter +rolled in flour, and an onion stuck full of cloves. Let it simmer over a +slow fire for two hours or more.</p> + +<p>When it is done, take off the tape, set the cabbage upright in a dish, +and pour melted butter over it.</p> + +<p>Lettuce may be done in the same manner.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STUFFED_POTATOES" id="STUFFED_POTATOES"></a>STUFFED POTATOES.</h4> + +<p>Take eight very large potatoes, wash and pare them. Make a small slit or +incision in each of them, and scoop out carefully with a knife as much +of the inside as will leave all round a shell about the thickness of two +cents. Then make a force-meat of the substance you have taken out of the +inside, mixing it with two minced onions, a small piece of minced cold +ham or pork, about two ounces of butter, and a little parsley; adding<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span> +the yolks of two or three beaten eggs. Mix the stuffing thoroughly, by +pounding it in a mortar.</p> + +<p>Butter the inside of the potatoes, and fill them with this mixture. Then +having buttered a large dish, lay your potatoes in it separately. Bake +them half an hour, or till they are of a fine brown.</p> + +<p>When you mash potatoes, moisten them with milk or cream, adding a little +salt. Heap them up on the dish in the form of a pyramid. Smooth the +sides of the pyramid with the back of a spoon, and brown it by holding +over it a red-hot shovel.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STUFFED_CUCUMBERS" id="STUFFED_CUCUMBERS"></a>STUFFED CUCUMBERS.</h4> + +<p>Cut off one end of each of the cucumbers, and scoop out all the seeds +with a fork. Then pare them. Prepare a stuffing made of bread crumbs, +cold meat minced, salt, pepper, and sweet-herbs. Fill your cucumbers +with it, and fasten on with a skewer the pieces you have cut off from +their ends. Sow up every one separately in a thin cloth. Put them into a +pan with butter, flour, a bunch of sweet-herbs, and a little warm <a name="corr15" id="corr15"></a>water. +Let them stew very slowly for about two hours, and then take them out. +Remove the cloths, and serve up the cucumbers with the sauce under them.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STUFFED_TOMATAS" id="STUFFED_TOMATAS"></a>STUFFED TOMATAS.</h4> + +<p>Scoop out the inside of a dozen large tomatas, without spoiling their +shape. Pass the inside through a sieve, and then mix it with grated +bread, chopped sweet-herbs, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Stew it ten +minutes, with a laurel leaf, or two peach leaves. Remove the leaves, and +stuff the tomatas with the mixture, tying a string round each to keep +them in shape. Sprinkle them<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span> all over with rasped bread-crust. Set them +in a buttered dish, and bake them in an oven. Take off the strings, and +serve up the tomatas.</p> + +<p>Egg-plants may be cooked in the same manner.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CAULIFLOWERS_WITH_CHEESE" id="CAULIFLOWERS_WITH_CHEESE"></a>CAULIFLOWERS WITH CHEESE.</h4> + +<p>Having washed and boiled your cauliflowers in salt and water, drain them +well. Make a white sauce in a small pan, with butter rolled in flour, +and a little milk. Pour some of this sauce into the bottom of a dish +that will bear the fire. Chop your cauliflower, and spread a layer of it +on the sauce. Then cover it with a layer of rich cheese, grated and +slightly sprinkled with pepper. Then spread on the remainder of the +cauliflower, and then another layer of peppered cheese, and so on till +your dish is nearly full. Pour over it the rest of the sauce. Prepare +two or three handfuls of grated bread, mixed with a little of the grated +cheese. Spread it all over the surface of the last layer of cauliflower, +and smooth it with the back of a spoon. Allow a quarter of a pound of +cheese to each cauliflower.</p> + +<p>Put the dish in a slow oven about a quarter of an hour before you serve +it up, and bake it till a brown crust forms on the outside. Clear off +the butter from the edges of the dish, and send it to table hot.</p> + +<p>Broccoli may be done in the same manner.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RAGOOED_CABBAGE" id="RAGOOED_CABBAGE"></a>RAGOOED CABBAGE.</h4> + +<p>Wash a fine savoy cabbage, and boil it for half an hour in salt and +water. Then take it out, drain it, and lay it for ten minutes in cold +water. Afterwards<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span> squeeze and drain it well, and take out the stalk. +Chop the cabbage slightly, and put it into a stew-pan with a quarter of +a pound of butter, and add two table-spoonfuls of flour. Season it with +salt and pepper, and moisten it with a little water. Let it stew slowly +for an hour, and then serve it up.</p> + +<p>Cauliflowers or broccoli may be done in the same manner.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RAGOOED_MUSHROOMS" id="RAGOOED_MUSHROOMS"></a>RAGOOED MUSHROOMS.</h4> + +<p>Take a pint of fresh mushrooms. When they are peeled and the stalks cut +off, put the mushrooms into a stew-pan with two table-spoonfuls of +vinegar, a sprig or two of parsley, a small onion, a few chives chopped +fine, some salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Let it boil gently for a +quarter of an hour. Before it goes to table, stir in the yolks of two +eggs.</p> + +<p>If the onion has turned blue or black, throw the whole away, as it is +evident that some poisonous ones are among the mushrooms.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak"> +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="PUREES" id="PUREES"></a>PURÉES.</h3> + +<hr class="decshort"> + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> word Purée cannot be exactly translated, as there is nothing in the +English language that gives precisely the same idea. In French it is +generally applied to a certain manner of cooking vegetables that +converts them into a substance resembling marmalade, which, when the +coarser parts are strained out, leaves a fine smooth jelly.</p> + +<p>It is served up with meat.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PUREE_OF_TURNIPS" id="PUREE_OF_TURNIPS"></a>PURÉE OF TURNIPS.</h4> + +<p>Wash and pare some of the finest turnips. Cut them into small pieces, +and let them lie for half an hour in cold water. Then take them out and +drain them. Put them into a stew-pan, with a large piece of butter and +some salt and pepper. Moisten them with a little broth or boiling water. +Let them stew over a very slow fire, for five or six hours, stirring +them frequently. Then rub them through a sieve, and serve up the jelly +with roast meat.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PUREE_OF_CELERY" id="PUREE_OF_CELERY"></a>PURÉE OF CELERY.</h4> + +<p>Wash your celery, peel it, and stew it slowly for three or four hours, +with salt, and a very little water. Then pass it through a sieve, and +season it with pepper, salt, and nutmeg to your taste.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PUREE_OF_ONIONS" id="PUREE_OF_ONIONS"></a>PURÉE OF ONIONS.</h4> + +<p>Take thirty onions; cut them in slices and put them into a stew-pan, +with a little salt, pepper, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span> a grated nutmeg. Let them stew slowly +till they are of a fine brown color, and then add a table-spoonful of +broth or warm water.</p> + +<p>When it has attained the proper consistence, strain it and serve it up.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PUREE_OF_MUSHROOMS" id="PUREE_OF_MUSHROOMS"></a>PURÉE OF MUSHROOMS.</h4> + +<p>Peel a pint of mushrooms, cut them in pieces, and put them in a pan with +as much cold water as will keep them from burning. Throw in with them a +small onion to test their goodness; as, if there is a bad or poisonous +one among them, the onion will turn of a bluish black while cooking. In +that case, throw them all away.</p> + +<p>Stew them slowly till they have lost all shape and have become an +undistinguishable mass. Then strain them.</p> + +<p>Put into a stew-pan a large piece of butter, or a spoonful of flour, and +two lumps of sugar. Add your purée, and let it stew again for about five +minutes. When you take it off the fire, stir in the yolks of two eggs +slightly beaten, and a spoonful of cream or rich milk. Put it in the +middle of a dish, and lay round it thin slices of fried bread or toast.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PUREE_OF_BEANS" id="PUREE_OF_BEANS"></a>PURÉE OF BEANS.</h4> + +<p>Having strung and cut your beans till you have a quart, throw them into +boiling water, with a little salt. Let them remain a quarter of an hour. +Then drain them, and throw into cold water to green them. After they +have lain half an hour in the cold water, take them out and drain them +again.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span></p> + +<p>Put a large piece of butter into a stew-pan with some pepper, a little +salt, and a spoonful of flour. Add your beans, and cover them with broth +or warm water. Put in a bunch of sweet-herbs cut small, and stew the +whole very slowly till it has dissolved into a mass. Then strain it. Put +a piece of butter into the purée, and serve it up.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PUREE_OF_GREEN_PEAS" id="PUREE_OF_GREEN_PEAS"></a>PURÉE OF GREEN PEAS.</h4> + +<p>Take a quart of shelled green peas. Wash them, and put them into a +stew-pan with water enough to cover them, a little salt and pepper, a +piece of butter the size of a walnut, a laurel leaf or a couple of +peach-leaves, and a bunch of mint.</p> + +<p>Let them stew very slowly; and if necessary moisten them occasionally +with a little warm water or broth. Stir them frequently, that they may +not stick to the pan. When they become of the consistence of marmalade, +strain it. Chop an onion fine, fry it in butter, and have it ready to +mix with the purée.</p> + +<p>Dried split peas may be made into a purée in the same manner.</p> + +<p>Purées may be made in a similar manner of different sorts of meat, +poultry &c. seasoned, stewed slowly to a jelly, then strained through a +cullender or sieve, and taken as soups.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"> +<p><a name="Footnote_71-1_1" id="Footnote_71-1_1" href="#FNanchor_71-1_1" class="label">71-*</a> In gathering mushrooms, take only those that are of a +pale pink color underneath, and a dull white or pearl color on the top. +Those that are perfectly white above, or whose under side is white, +yellow, or any color but pale pink, are unfit to eat, and poisonous.</p> + +<p>After being gathered awhile, the pink tinge changes to brown, but it +always appears on the good ones while in the ground.</p></div> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak"> +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="EGGS_c" id="EGGS_c"></a>EGGS, &c.</h3> + +<hr class="decshort"> + +<p>In choosing eggs, hold them up against the light, and if you see that +the yolk is round, and the white thin and clear, you may suppose them to +be good. But if the yolk appears to be broken and mixed with the white, +giving it a thick cloudy look, you may be sure that the egg is bad. Eggs +may be preserved by keeping them in a keg of lime-water, or by greasing +each egg all over with dripping, and putting them into a tight vessel +filled with wood-ashes, placing them all with their small ends +downwards. You may also keep them by burying them in salt. Still they +are never so good as when quite fresh.</p> + +<p>When you break eggs for use, do every one separately, in a saucer. If +you find the egg good, throw it into the pan in which they are to be +beaten. If you meet with a bad one, throw it away and wash the saucer or +get a clean one. A single bad egg will make the whole mixture heavy, +spungy, and of an unpleasant taste.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BOILED_EGGS" id="BOILED_EGGS"></a>BOILED EGGS.</h4> + +<p>When the water boils hard, put in the eggs, and let them boil exactly +three minutes. Then take them out, and cover them up for about a minute, +which will greatly improve them. Send them to table wrapped in a napkin, +and laid in a deep dish.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRIED_EGGS" id="FRIED_EGGS"></a>FRIED EGGS.</h4> + +<p>Melt a piece of butter in a frying-pan. When it ceases to hiss, put in +the yolks only of your<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span> eggs. Season them with pepper and salt. When +fried, color them by holding over them a red-hot shovel.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STEWED_EGGS" id="STEWED_EGGS"></a>STEWED EGGS.</h4> + +<p>Melt some butter in a dish that will bear the fire. Add to it salt, and +nutmeg, and a little milk in the proportion of a table-spoonful to each +egg. Mix them well together. Then lay over it the yolks of your eggs, +first ascertaining that they are all good. Let it stew over a slow fire +for a few minutes; and color it by holding over it a red-hot shovel. The +eggs must not be allowed to get hard, but the surface should be soft and +perfectly smooth and even.</p> + +<p>Before you put in the eggs, you may stir into the mixture some heads of +boiled asparagus.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STUFFED_EGGS" id="STUFFED_EGGS"></a>STUFFED EGGS.</h4> + +<p>Boil twelve eggs hard. Take off the shell, and cut each egg in half. +Take out the yolks, and pound them in a mortar with a quarter of a pound +of butter; a nutmeg; some grated bread that has been soaked in milk; a +little salt; and if you choose, some minced sweet-herbs. Fill the whites +of the eggs with this stuffing, heaping it up, and smoothing it into a +round even shape. Butter a dish, and spread over the inside a thin layer +of the stuffing. Arrange in it all your halves of eggs, the bottoms +downwards. Put them into an oven, the lid of which must be hot. Let them +set about five minutes, and then send them to table.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="EGG_SNOW" id="EGG_SNOW"></a>EGG SNOW.</h4> + +<p>Take a quart of milk, and stir into it two spoonfuls of rose-water, and +a quarter of a pound of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span> white sugar, with a powdered nutmeg. Add by +degrees the yolks of twelve eggs well beaten. Boil the whole together, +stirring it all the time, so as to make a thick smooth custard. If you +keep it too long on the fire, it will be lumpy. Set it away to get cold +in a deep dish. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth that will +stand alone, adding to it twelve drops of essence of lemon. Heap it on +the dish of custard so as to look like a pile of snow; or you may drop +it with a large spoon, so as to form separate balls. On the top of each +ball you may lay a tea-spoonful of stiff currant-jelly.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PANCAKES" id="PANCAKES"></a>PANCAKES.</h4> + +<p>Beat together a quart of sifted flour, six eggs, a table-spoonful of +brandy, a grated nutmeg, a little salt, and sufficient water to make a +thin batter. Melt a piece of butter in a frying-pan, or substitute a +little sweet-oil. Pour in a ladleful of the batter, and let it spread +into a circular form. When it is slightly brown on one side, turn it +carefully on the other. Serve them up with white sugar grated over each.</p> + +<p>You may color them pink, by stirring into the mixture some of the juice +of a beet-root, which has been boiled and then beaten in a mortar.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="OMELETS" id="OMELETS"></a>OMELETS.</h4> + +<p><i>Cheese Omelet.</i>—Grate some rich cheese, and mix it gradually with your +eggs while beating them. Season with salt and pepper. Melt some butter +in a frying-pan. Put in your omelet, and fry it first on one side, and +then on the other. When you dish it up, fold it over in half.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span></p> + +<p class="top1"><i>Bread Omelet.</i>—Put two handfuls or more of bread crumbs into half a +pint of cream, with a grated nutmeg and a little salt. When the bread +has absorbed all the cream, stir it into the eggs as you beat them for +the omelet. Fry it in butter, and when dished, fold one half over the +other.</p> + +<p class="top1"><i>Lobster Omelet.</i>—Beat in a mortar the flesh of a boiled lobster, +adding, at times, a little butter; and season it with pepper and salt. +Stir it gradually into the eggs while beating them. Fry it in butter.</p> + +<p class="top1"><i>Onion Omelet.</i>—Boil some onions; mince them fine, and moisten them +with milk. Stir them into the eggs as you beat them.</p> + +<p class="top1"><i>Ham <a name="corr16" id="corr16"></a>Omelet.</i>—Is made with grated cold ham, stirred into the eggs while +beating.</p> + +<p>Omelets may be seasoned in the same manner with parsley, chopped +sweet-herbs, or mushrooms. Also with minced oysters.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MACCARONI" id="MACCARONI"></a>MACCARONI.</h4> + +<p>Boil half a pound of maccaroni with two ounces of butter, some whole +pepper, and a little salt. Do not let it boil long enough for the +maccaroni to lose its shape. When done, mix with it a quarter of a pound +of rich cheese, scraped or grated. Butter a deep dish, and put the +mixture into it. Then set it for a quarter of an hour in the oven. Brown +the top with a red-hot shovel.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MACCARONI_PIE" id="MACCARONI_PIE"></a>MACCARONI PIE.</h4> + +<p>Take half a pound of maccaroni, and put it into a stew-pan with an ounce +of butter, a little salt<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span> and pepper, and water enough to cover it. Stew +it till dry. Then grate a quarter of a pound of fine cheese, and mix it +with the maccaroni, adding another ounce of butter. Set it away to get +cold.</p> + +<p>Take another pan, which must be very deep, with a flat bottom, and +nearly the shape of a drum. Butter the inside. Make a good paste, and +cover with it the whole interior of the pan, sides and bottom. Put in +the maccaroni. Cover the pie with a lid of paste. Bake it at least half +an hour. When done, loosen it from the pan and turn it out on a dish. It +will be in the form of a drum, if the pan was of that shape.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BLANCMANGE_IN_EGGS" id="BLANCMANGE_IN_EGGS"></a>BLANCMANGE IN EGGS.</h4> + +<p>Take two ounces of shelled sweet almonds, and one ounce of shelled +bitter almonds. Blanch them by throwing them into scalding water to make +the skins peel off easily; then put them in cold water; wipe them dry +afterwards, and pound them in a mortar, adding at times a little +rose-water.</p> + +<p>Dissolve an ounce of isinglass in warm water, and then stir it into a +quart of cream. Add a quarter of a pound of broken loaf-sugar, and a +wine-glass of rose-water. Boil it hard for a quarter of an hour, and +stir it all the time. Then strain it through a linen bag, and put it +into egg-cups, or into the halves of egg-shells nicely and evenly +trimmed, and set it away in a cold place to congeal.</p> + +<p>Have ready some calves-feet jelly (made according to the directions +given in the article “Chickens in Jellyâ€); and when the blancmange is +firm, take out a small piece from the middle of each cupful, and replace +it with a lump of the jelly, put in so as to look like the yolk of the +egg. Or if more convenient, you need not put in the jelly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span> till you have +taken the blancmange out of the cups or egg-shells, which must be done +by wetting the moulds with warm water on the outside.</p> + +<p>The jelly for this purpose must be very high-colored, by means of +brandy, or dark sweet wine.</p> + +<p>If nicely managed, the blancmange and jelly will look like eggs cut in +half. Lay them in a circle round a dish that contains something high and +ornamental,—for instance, a pyramid of ice-cream.</p> + + + + +<hr class="chapbreak"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="divisionhead"><a name="PART_THE_SIXTH" id="PART_THE_SIXTH"></a>PART THE SIXTH.</h2> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span></p> + + +<hr class="chapbreak"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span></p> + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="PASTRY_CAKES_c" id="PASTRY_CAKES_c"></a>PASTRY, CAKES, &c.</h3> + +<hr class="decshort"> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRENCH_PASTE" id="FRENCH_PASTE"></a>FRENCH PASTE.</h4> + +<p><span class="smcap">Sift</span> a quart of flour, and lay it in a pan. Make a hole in the middle, +and put into it the white of an egg slightly beaten, a piece of butter +the size of an egg, and a very little salt. Pour in gradually as much +cold water as will moisten it. Mix it well with your hands, as rapidly +as possible, and see that no lumps are left in it. Set it away to cool, +and in a quarter of an hour roll it out, and spread over it half a pound +of butter which has been kept in ice. Then fold up the paste with the +four sides laid one over another, so as entirely to inclose the butter, +and set it for half an hour in a cool place. Then roll it again; fold +it, and give it another roll. Set it away again; and in half an hour +roll it out twice more, and it will be fit for use.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PUFF_PASTE" id="PUFF_PASTE"></a>PUFF PASTE.</h4> + +<p>May be made with a pound of butter, and a pound and a quarter of sifted +flour. The butter must be washed in cold water, and then squeezed very +hard, and made up into a lump. Divide it into eight parts. Mix one part +of the butter with the flour, adding just enough of water to moisten it. +Roll it out; spread over it a second portion of the butter; flour it; +fold it up, and roll it out again, adding another division of the +butter. Repeat this till you get in all the butter, a piece at a time, +folding and rolling the paste with each separate portion of the butter. +Then set it away to cool. If it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span> sets several hours, it will be the +better for it; and better still if the paste is made the night before it +is wanted; always keeping it in a cold place.</p> + +<p>While buttering and rolling, do every thing as quickly as possible.</p> + +<p>Before you put it into the dishes, roll it out once more. It is +difficult in warm weather to make good puff paste without a marble +table, or slab, to roll it on.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CREAM_TARTS" id="CREAM_TARTS"></a>CREAM TARTS.</h4> + +<p>Mix together a quart of flour, half a pound of butter, a little salt, +and two beaten eggs. Add a little cold water; make it into a paste, and +set it away to cool. Then roll it out again. Cut it into round shapes +with the edge of a tumbler. Lay round each a rim made of an even strip +of the paste, and notch it handsomely. Bake them for a quarter of an +hour, and then take them from the oven. Beat together a pint of cream, +four eggs, and four table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar. Fill the tarts +with this mixture, grate nutmeg over each, and bake them again for a +quarter of an hour.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ALMOND_TARTS" id="ALMOND_TARTS"></a>ALMOND TARTS.</h4> + +<p>Blanch half a pound of shelled sweet almonds and three ounces of shelled +bitter almonds. Beat them, a few at a time, in a mortar, mixing them +well, and adding at times a little rose-water. When done, mix with them +a quarter of a pound of loaf-sugar powdered, and the juice and grated +peel of half a lemon.</p> + +<p>Have ready some fine paste. Cut it into circular pieces about the size +and thickness of a dollar. Put into each piece of paste some of the +almond<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span> mixture, heaping it up in the centre. Cover them with lids of +the same, and crimp the edges very neatly. Bake them about half an hour, +and grate sugar over them when done.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RISSOLES" id="RISSOLES"></a>RISSOLES.</h4> + +<p>Make some fine paste, and cut it out with the edge of a tumbler. Have +ready some minced veal, seasoned in the best manner, or some chopped +oysters, or any sort of force-meat, and lay some of it on one half of +each piece of paste. Then turn over it the other half, so as to inclose +the meat. Crimp the edges. Put some butter into a frying-pan. Lay the +rissoles into it, and fry them of a light brown.</p> + +<p>They should be in the shape of a half-moon.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ALMOND_CUSTARDS" id="ALMOND_CUSTARDS"></a>ALMOND CUSTARDS.</h4> + +<p>Blanch and pound in a mortar half a pound of shelled sweet almonds, and +three ounces of peach-kernels, or shelled bitter almonds, adding +sufficient rose-water to moisten them. When they are all pounded to a +paste, mix with them a quarter of a pound of powdered loaf-sugar, and +boil them in a quart of milk or cream. Then set it away to cool. When +cold, stir eight beaten eggs into it. Put the mixture into cups. Set +them in an iron oven half filled with water, and bake them.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="VANILLA_CUSTARDS" id="VANILLA_CUSTARDS"></a>VANILLA CUSTARDS.</h4> + +<p>Cut a vanilla bean into slips, and boil them in a quart of milk, with a +quarter of a pound of white sugar. Let it boil slowly for a quarter of +an hour,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span> and then set it away to cool. When cold, stir into it eight +beaten eggs, having left out the whites of four. Put the mixture into +cups, set them in water and bake them. Color them when done, by holding +over them a red-hot shovel. When cold, grate on sugar.</p> + +<p class="top1"><i>Lemon Custards</i> are made in the same manner; substituting for the +vanilla bean the grated rind of a large fresh lemon.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHOCOLATE_CUSTARDS" id="CHOCOLATE_CUSTARDS"></a>CHOCOLATE CUSTARDS.</h4> + +<p>Cut into pieces half a pound of the best chocolate. Pour on it +sufficient milk to prevent its burning, and let it boil ten minutes. +After you remove it from the fire, have ready a pint of boiling milk or +cream, and pour it on the chocolate. Beat together the yolks of eight +eggs and the whites of two only, and stir them into the chocolate with +two ounces, or more, of loaf-sugar. Put the mixture into cups, set them +in an oven with water in it, and bake them. Beat the six remaining +whites of eggs to a froth, adding a very little sugar, and heap some of +the froth on each custard. You may lay on the top of each heap of froth +one of the bonbons or confections called chocolate-nuts.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COFFEE_CUSTARDS" id="COFFEE_CUSTARDS"></a>COFFEE CUSTARDS.</h4> + +<p>Take two ounces of roasted coffee and two ounces of raw coffee. Pound +them together in a mortar, but do not grind them. Boil this coffee in a +quart of rich milk. Let it get cold, and then strain it. Stir into it +two ounces of powdered loaf-sugar, and two large spoonfuls of cream. +Beat eight eggs, omitting the whites of four. Stir them<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span> gradually into +the coffee. Put it into cups, and bake the custards in an oven with +water. Grate white sugar over the tops when cold.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TEA_CUSTARDS" id="TEA_CUSTARDS"></a>TEA CUSTARDS.</h4> + +<p>Boil a quart of cream or rich milk, and pour it (while boiling) on three +ounces of the best green tea. Add two ounces of loaf sugar. Cover it and +set it away. Take eight eggs, and beat them well, leaving out the whites +of four; and when the tea is cold, stir in the eggs. Then strain the +whole mixture; put it into cups, and bake them in an oven with water. +Grate sugar over the top of each.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RICE_POTTAGE" id="RICE_POTTAGE"></a>RICE POTTAGE.</h4> + +<p>Put six table-spoonfuls of rice into a pint of water, and boil it till +quite soft. Drain it through a sieve, and put the rice into a quart of +milk with a quarter of a pound of sugar, and three or four peach-leaves, +or a few peach-kernels. Boil it, and before you serve it up, take out +the peach-leaves or kernels, and stir in the yolks of two eggs.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="APPLE_FRITTERS" id="APPLE_FRITTERS"></a>APPLE FRITTERS.</h4> + +<p>Pare and core some fine large pippins, and cut them into round slices. +Soak them in brandy for two or three hours. Make a batter, in the +proportion of four eggs to a table-spoonful of olive-oil, a table +spoonful of rose-water, the same quantity of brandy, the same quantity +of cold water. Thicken the batter with a sufficient quantity of flour +stirred in by degrees, and mix it two or three<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span> hours before it is +wanted, that it may be light by fermentation.</p> + +<p>Put some butter into a frying-pan. Dip each slice of apple into the +batter, and fry them brown. Then drain them, grate white sugar over +them, and send them to table.</p> + +<p class="top1"><i>Peach Fritters</i> may be made in the same way, but the peaches must be +cut into quarters.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BREAD_FRITTERS" id="BREAD_FRITTERS"></a>BREAD FRITTERS.</h4> + +<p>Boil a quart of milk with cinnamon and sugar to your taste. When done, +stir in a table-spoonful of rose-water. Cut some slices of bread into a +circular shape. Soak them in the milk till they have absorbed it. Then +drain them. Have ready some yolks of eggs well beaten. Dip the slices of +bread into it, and fry them in butter. Serve them up strewed with +powdered sugar.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RICE_CAKE" id="RICE_CAKE"></a>RICE CAKE.</h4> + +<p>Take half a pound of rice and wash it well. Put it into a pint of cream +or milk, and boil it soft. Let it get cold. Then stir into it +alternately a quarter of a pound of sugar, two ounces of butter, eight +eggs well beaten (having left out the whites of four), and a wine-glass +of rose-water, or else the grated peel of a lemon. Mix all well. Butter +a mould or a deep pan with straight sides, and spread grated bread +crumbs all over its <a name="corr17" id="corr17"></a>inside. Put in the mixture, and bake it three +quarters of an hour.</p> + +<p>Ground rice is best for this cake.</p> + +<p>If any of the cake is left, you may next day cut it in slices and fry +them in butter.</p> + +<p>Or, instead of baking the mixture in a large<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span> cake, you may put flour on +your hands, and roll it into round balls. Make a batter of beaten eggs, +sugar, and grated bread; dip the balls into it, and fry them in butter.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="POTATO_CAKE" id="POTATO_CAKE"></a>POTATO CAKE.</h4> + +<p>Roast in the ashes a dozen small or six large potatoes. When done, peel +them, and put them into a pan with a little salt, and the rind of a +lemon grated. Add a quarter of a pound of butter, or half a pint of +cream, and a quarter of a pound of sugar. Having mashed the potatoes +with this mixture, rub it through a cullender, and stir it very hard. +Then set it away to cool.</p> + +<p>Beat eight eggs, and stir them gradually into the mixture. Season it +with a tea-spoonful of mixed spice, and half a glass of rose-water.</p> + +<p>Butter a mould or a deep dish, and spread the inside all over with +grated bread. Put in the mixture, and bake it for three quarters of an +hour.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SPONGE_CAKE" id="SPONGE_CAKE"></a>SPONGE CAKE—CALLED IN FRANCE BISCUIT.</h4> + +<p>Take ten eggs, and beat them till very thick and smooth. Add gradually a +pound of powdered loaf-sugar. Rub a lump of loaf-sugar all over the rind +of a large lemon, to draw the juice to the surface; then grate the peel +of the lemon, and stir it into the mixture, together with the lump of +sugar. Squeeze in the juice of the lemon, and add two table-spoonfuls of +rose-water. Beat the mixture very hard; then take half a pound of potato +flour (which is best), or else of fine wheat flour, and stir it in very +lightly and slowly. It must be baked immediately.</p> + +<p>Have ready some small square or oblong cases of thick white paper, with +an edge turned up all<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span> round, and sewed at the corners. They should be +about a finger in length, half a finger in breadth, and an inch and a +half in depth. Either butter these paper-cases, or sift white sugar all +over the inside. Put some of the mixture into each case, but do not fill +them to the top. Grate loaf-sugar over the top of each, and bake them +quickly.</p> + +<p>These cakes are much better when baked in paper cases; tins being +generally too thick for them. No cake requires greater care in baking. +If the oven is not hot enough, both at top and bottom, they will fall +and be heavy, and lose their shape.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CROQUETTES" id="CROQUETTES"></a>CROQUETTES.</h4> + +<p>Take a pound of powdered sugar, a pound of butter, half a pound of +wheat-flour, and half a pound of Indian meal; mix all together, and add +the juice and grated peel of a large lemon, with spice to your taste. +Make it into a lump of paste. Then put it into a mortar, and beat it +hard on all sides.</p> + +<p>Roll it out thin, and cut it into cakes with the edge of a tumbler, or +with a tin cutter.</p> + +<p>Flour a shallow tin pan. Lay the cakes into it, but not close together. +Bake them about ten minutes. Grate sugar over them when done.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MARGUERITES" id="MARGUERITES"></a>MARGUERITES.</h4> + +<p>Beat together till very light, a pound of butter and a pound of powdered +sugar. Sift a pound of flour into a pan. Take the yolks only, of twelve +eggs, and beat them till very thick and smooth. Pour them into the +flour, and add the beaten butter and sugar. Stir in a grated nutmeg, and +a wine-glass of rose-water. Mix the whole together, till it becomes a +lump of dough.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span></p> + +<p>Flour your paste-board, and lay the dough upon it; sprinkle it with +flour. Roll it out about half an inch thick, and cut it into round cakes +with the edge of a cup. Flour a shallow pan, put in the cakes (so as not +to touch), and bake them about five minutes in a quick oven. If the oven +is too cool, they will run.</p> + +<p>When the cakes are cool, lay on each a large lump of currant jelly. Take +the whites of the eggs, and beat them till they stand alone. Then add to +them, by degrees, sufficient powdered sugar to make the consistence of +icing, and ten drops of strong essence of lemon. Heap on each cake, with +a spoon, a pile of the icing over the currant-jelly. Set them in a cool +oven till the icing becomes firm and of a pale brownish tint.</p> + +<p>These cakes are very fine.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="WAFERS" id="WAFERS"></a>WAFERS.</h4> + +<p>Sift half a pound of flour into a pan. Make a hole in the middle, and +put in three beaten eggs, a table-spoonful of brandy, a table-spoonful +of powdered sugar, a table-spoonful of sweet-oil, and a very little +salt, not more than will lie on a sixpence. Mix all together, adding +gradually a little milk, till you have a batter about the thickness of +good cream. Then stir in a table-spoonful of rose-water. Let there be no +lumps in the batter. Heat your wafer-iron on both sides, in a clear +fire, but do not allow it to get red-hot. Then grease the inside with a +brush dipped in sweet-oil, or a clean rag with some butter tied up in +it. Then put in the batter, allowing about two table-spoonfuls to each +wafer. Close the iron, and in baking turn it first on one side and then +on the other. When done, sprinkle the wafers with powdered sugar,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span> and +roll each one up, pressing the edges together while warm, so as to make +them unite.</p> + +<p>A little practice will soon show you the proper degree of heat, and the +time necessary for baking the wafers. They should be but slightly +colored, and of an even tint all over.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="GINGERBREAD" id="GINGERBREAD"></a>GINGERBREAD.</h4> + +<p>Mix together two pounds of flour, one pound of sugar, five beaten eggs, +three quarters of a pound of butter, and a tea-cupful of ginger. Put the +flour to the other ingredients, a little at a time, and stir the whole +very hard. Melt a tea-spoonful of sal aratus or fine pearl-ash in a +little sour milk, and stir it in at the last. Roll the dough into +sheets, and cut it out with square tins. If not stiff enough for +rolling, add a little more flour. Lay it in buttered pans, and bake it +in a moderate oven.</p> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="divisionhead"><a name="PART_THE_SEVENTH" id="PART_THE_SEVENTH"></a>PART THE SEVENTH.</h2> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span></p> + + +<hr class="chapbreak"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span></p> + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="PREPARATIONS_OF_FRUIT_SUGAR_c" id="PREPARATIONS_OF_FRUIT_SUGAR_c"></a>PREPARATIONS OF FRUIT, SUGAR, &c.</h3> + +<hr class="decshort"> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="AN_APPLE_CHARLOTTE" id="AN_APPLE_CHARLOTTE"></a>AN APPLE CHARLOTTE.</h4> + +<p><span class="smcap">Pare</span> and core some fine pippins, and cut them into small pieces. Melt +some butter in the bottom of a pan. Then lay your apples in it with a +sufficient proportion of sugar, beaten cinnamon or nutmeg, and some +rose-water or grated lemon-peel. Set the pan in an oven, and let the +apples bake till they are quite soft. Then take them out of the pan, and +mash them to a marmalade with the back of a spoon.</p> + +<p>Cut some thin slices of bread into a triangular or three-cornered shape, +and dip them in melted butter. Then butter a broad deep dish, and lay +the pieces of bread in the bottom of it, making the points meet in the +centre. Spread a thick layer of apple all over the bread; then more +bread, covered with another layer of apple, and so on till the dish is +full; having a cover of bread on the top. Set it in the oven, and bake +it slowly about a quarter of an hour.</p> + +<p>A very fine Charlotte may be made by substituting slices of spunge-cake +for the bread, or having square spunge-cakes laid round, leaving a hole +in the centre to be filled up with gooseberry jelly. If you use +spunge-cake, you need not put it in the oven.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="APPLE_COMPOTE" id="APPLE_COMPOTE"></a>APPLE COMPOTE.</h4> + +<p>Pare and core some large pippins, but leave them whole. Make a syrup by +boiling and skimming a pound of loaf-sugar melted in a gill of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span> water, +into which the half of the white of an egg has been beaten. When the +syrup is quite clear, boil the apples in it till soft and tender. Then +take them out, lay them in a deep dish, and fill up with small +sweet-meats or marmalade the holes from whence you took the cores.</p> + +<p>Boil the syrup again till it becomes a jelly. Pour it hot over your +apples, and set it in a cool place to congeal.</p> + +<p>The syrup will be much improved by adding to it the juice of one or two +lemons, or a dozen drops of essence of lemon.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COMPOTE_OF_PEARS" id="COMPOTE_OF_PEARS"></a>COMPOTE OF PEARS.</h4> + +<p>Pare them, but leave on the stems. Lay them in a preserving-pan; and to +a dozen moderate-sized pears, put half a pound of white sugar, a gill of +water, and a few sticks of cinnamon, with some slips of lemon-peel. +Simmer them till tender; and when half done, pour in a glass of +port-wine. When quite done, take out the pears and lay them in a deep +dish. Strain the syrup; give it another boil, and pour it over them.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COMPOTE_OF_CHESTNUTS" id="COMPOTE_OF_CHESTNUTS"></a>COMPOTE OF CHESTNUTS.</h4> + +<p>Take some of the largest and finest chestnuts. Cut a slit in the shell +of each, and roast them in a charcoal furnace, taking care not to burn +them. When done, peel them and put them into a pan with some powdered +sugar, and a very little water. Let them simmer over a slow fire for +about a quarter of an hour. When done, take them out, put them into a +dish, squeeze over them some lemon-juice, and sprinkle them with +powdered sugar.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span></p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRIED_APPLES" id="FRIED_APPLES"></a>FRIED APPLES.</h4> + +<p>Pare and core some of the largest and finest pippins, and cut them into +thin round slices. Mix together in a deep dish some brandy, lemon-juice, +and powdered sugar. Lay the slices of apple in it, and let them soak for +several hours. Then drain them, and dip each slice in flour. Put some +butter into a pan, and fry the apples of a fine brown. Dish them, and +grate loaf-sugar over them.</p> + +<p>Quinces may be done in the same manner. So also may peaches, but they +must be cut in half.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PEACH_MARMALADE" id="PEACH_MARMALADE"></a>PEACH MARMALADE.</h4> + +<p>Take ripe peaches; pare them and cut them in half, taking out the +stones. Weigh them, and to each pound of fruit allow half a pound of +loaf-sugar. Mash them with the sugar, and put them in a +preserving-kettle. Boil them slowly till they become a shapeless mass, +which will generally be in about three quarters of an hour. Stir the +marmalade frequently, to prevent its sticking to the kettle. Blanch half +the kernels, and cut them in two; and when the marmalade is about half +done, put them into it to give it a fine flavor. Take out the kernels +when the marmalade is cold, and then tie it up in pots or glasses, +laying over it paper dipped in brandy.</p> + +<p>Marmalade of plums or green-gages may be made in the same manner.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BRANDY_PEACHES" id="BRANDY_PEACHES"></a>BRANDY PEACHES.</h4> + +<p>Take large yellow free-stone peaches; they must not be too ripe. Wipe +off the down with a flannel, and then prick each peach to the stone with +a large pin.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span> Put them into a pan, and scald them with boiling water. +Cover them, and let them rest for a few minutes. This is to make them +white. You may repeat the scalding two or three times. Then take them +out to drain and dry.</p> + +<p>Allow a pound of the best loaf-sugar to a dozen large peaches. Put the +sugar into a preserving-kettle (lined with enamel or porcelain), and +melt it, allowing to each pound a gill of water, and half the white of +an egg. Boil the sugar, and skim it till perfectly clear. Then put in +the peaches, and give them a boil. Take them off the fire, and let them +set in the syrup till next day.</p> + +<p>The following morning take out the peaches, set the syrup over the fire, +and when it has boiled a few minutes put in the peaches, and give them a +short boil. Then take them out, and let them get cold. Boil down the +syrup to half its original quantity, but take care that it does not boil +long enough to congeal or become thick. Put the peaches into a glass +jar, and pour the syrup over them. Fill up the jar with brandy, and +cover it closely.</p> + +<p>Apricots may be done in the same manner. Also pears. The stems must be +left on the pears.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="GOOSEBERRY_POTTAGE" id="GOOSEBERRY_POTTAGE"></a>GOOSEBERRY POTTAGE.</h4> + +<p>Stew two quarts of fine large gooseberries in just sufficient water to +cover them. When quite soft and broken, mash them with the back of a +spoon, make them very sweet with sugar, and set them away to get cold. +Take three pints of rich milk; stir into it a pounded nutmeg and the +yolks of four eggs. Then set it over a bed of hot coals, and let it +simmer, stirring it gently all the time. Before it comes to a boil, take +it off the fire and gradually stir in the gooseberries. It must be +quite<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span> cold before you serve it up. Send it to table in a bowl, and eat +spunge-cake with it.</p> + +<p>It will be still nicer, if you use the pulp only of the gooseberries, +pressed through a sieve or <a name="corr18" id="corr18"></a>cullender.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRUIT_JELLIES" id="FRUIT_JELLIES"></a>FRUIT JELLIES.</h4> + +<p>Previous to making your jelly, clarify the sugar, which must be the best +loaf. Break it up, and to each pound allow a gill of water and an ounce +of isinglass. Mix the water with the sugar. Dissolve the isinglass in as +much hot water as will cover it. Set the sugar over the fire in a +preserving-kettle; and when it is beginning to boil, throw in the melted +isinglass. Skim the syrup well, and when it is quite clear and no more +scum rises, take it from the fire, cover it, and leave it to settle.</p> + +<p>Prepare the fruit of which you intend to make the jelly. If small fruit, +such as gooseberries, currants, grapes, raspberries, or strawberries; +pick them from the stems, and put them into a jar; set the jar in a +vessel of warm water, and let them come to a boil. Then take them out, +put them into a fine sieve, set a pan under it, and with the back of a +large spoon press out all the juice from the fruit. Mix the juice, while +warm, with the clarified sugar, and boil them together for about a +quarter of an hour. Then put it into your jars or glasses, and tie it up +with brandy-paper.</p> + +<p>If you want the jelly for immediate use, put it into a mould; set the +mould in ice for two or three hours; and when the jelly is congealed, +loosen it by setting the mould in warm water, and then turn it out.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span></p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PRESERVED_PUMPKIN" id="PRESERVED_PUMPKIN"></a>PRESERVED PUMPKIN.</h4> + +<p>Take a fine ripe pumpkin of a deep rich color. Cut from it as many +slices as you want; they should be very thin. Have ready some +lime-water. Put into it the slices of pumpkin, and let them soak for +twenty-four hours. Then take them out, wash them well in cold water, and +wipe them dry. Having prepared a nicely clarified syrup of sugar, put +the slices of pumpkin into it, and let them simmer over a slow fire +without stirring, for a day and a night; but first flavor them to your +taste with lemon-juice mixed into the syrup. When done, they will be +crisp and transparent. Put them into broad stone or queensware pots, and +tie them up with brandy-paper.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PRESERVED_RASPBERRIES" id="PRESERVED_RASPBERRIES"></a>PRESERVED RASPBERRIES.</h4> + +<p>Let your raspberries be gathered on a dry day. Measure them, and to a +quart of raspberries allow a pound of fine loaf-sugar. Spread the fruit +on large dishes, but do not heap it; let every raspberry lie singly. +Pound the sugar to powder, and sift it over the fruit.</p> + +<p>Then have ready the same quantity of ripe currants. Squeeze them through +a linen bag which has been wrung out of cold water. Prepare a pound of +loaf-sugar for each pint of currant juice. Put the sugar into a +preserving-kettle, and pour the currant-juice over it. When it has +melted, set it on the fire, and boil and skim it for ten minutes. When +no more scum rises, put in the raspberries. As soon as they are all +scalded, take off the kettle, cover it, and set it away for two hours. +Then put it again on the fire for about five minutes. Afterward set it +again away for two hours, and then<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span> return it to the fire as before. +This must be done three times in all, but on no account allow the +raspberries to boil. If done with care, they will be whole and +transparent.</p> + +<p>When cold, put them up in glasses.</p> + +<p class="top1">If you preserve white raspberries, do them in the juice of white +currants.</p> + +<p class="top1">Any other fruit may be done in jelly in the same manner.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ORANGE_JELLY" id="ORANGE_JELLY"></a>ORANGE JELLY.</h4> + +<p>Peel twelve large sweet oranges, and cut them into small pieces. Put +them into a linen bag, and squeeze out all the juice. Measure the juice, +and if it does not amount to a pint, squeeze some more pieces of orange +through the bag. Put a pound of double-refined loaf-sugar into a +preserving kettle, and pour the juice over it. When the sugar has +melted, put it over the fire. Dissolve two ounces of isinglass in a +little hot water, and add it to the jelly just as it is beginning to +boil. Let it boil hard twenty minutes. Then put it into glasses, and tie +it up with brandy-paper.</p> + +<p>Lemon-jelly may be made in this manner.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CLARIFIED_SUGAR" id="CLARIFIED_SUGAR"></a>CLARIFIED SUGAR, FOR PRESERVES, AND OTHER USES.</h4> + +<p>To each pound of sugar allow half a pint of water, and half the white of +an egg; thus four pounds of sugar will require a quart of water and the +whites of two eggs. Mix the white of egg with the water, and beat it to +a froth with rods. Take two thirds of the water, and pour it over the +sugar. When it has melted, set it over the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span> fire. When it rises and +boils, pour in a little more of the water, and diminish the fire to +abate the boiling and allow the scum to rise. Take it off, skim it well, +and in five minutes set it on the fire again. When it boils a second +time, add a little more water; and afterwards take it off and skim it +again. Repeat this till it is quite clear, and no more scum rises. Then +take it from the fire. Dip a fine napkin in warm water, wring it out, +and then strain the syrup through it. Afterwards put your fruit into the +syrup, and boil it till tender.</p> + +<p>You may keep this syrup in bottles, and at any time you can put fruit +into it; for instance, strawberries, raspberries plums, apricots &c. If +only wanted for immediate use, you need not boil them, but send them to +table in the syrup, with the advantage of their natural color and +flavor.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRUIT_IN_SUGAR_COATS" id="FRUIT_IN_SUGAR_COATS"></a>FRUIT IN SUGAR COATS.</h4> + +<p>Prepare some of the best loaf-sugar powdered as fine as possible. Have +ready some white of egg. Take some of the best and largest plums, +cherries, strawberries, raspberries, apricots (peeled) or any other +suitable fruit.</p> + +<p>Dip the fruit, separately, in the white of egg, and then roll it all +over in the powdered sugar, which will thus adhere to it, and form a +coat. Then lay it on a dish (spreading it out so as not to touch) and +set it in a cool oven to harden.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BURNT_ALMONDS" id="BURNT_ALMONDS"></a>BURNT ALMONDS.</h4> + +<p>Take a pound of shelled sweet almonds, a pound of loaf-sugar, and half a +pint of water. Melt the sugar in the water, and then set it over the +fire. Put in the almonds, and stir them about till they<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span> are well +dispersed through the sugar. Let them boil, and when you hear the +almonds crack, they are sufficiently done. Take them off, and stir them +till they are dry, and then put them into a wire sieve, and sift from +them the loose sugar. Put this sugar again into the pan, with sufficient +water to moisten it, and let it come to a boil. Then put in two +spoonfuls of cochineal powder to color it red; add the almonds, and stir +them over the fire till they are quite dry. Put them away in glass jars.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PEPPERMINT_DROPS" id="PEPPERMINT_DROPS"></a>PEPPERMINT DROPS</h4> + +<p>Powder some fine loaf-sugar, add to it a little essence of peppermint +(sufficient to give it a strong flavor) and enough of water to make it +into a thick paste, which you must mix on a plate with the point of a +broad knife. Then put the paste into a pan that has a lip or little +spout at one side; melt it over the fire, and let it come to a boil. As +soon as it boils, take it off and drop it from the lip of the pan into a +clean broad tin pan or plate. Let the drops be all of the same size and +shape. The tin pan that receives them must be very cold. As soon as the +drops have hardened, loosen them from the tin, by slipping the point of +a knife under each.</p> + +<p>You may color them red with cochineal.</p> + +<p>Keep them in a glass jar.</p> + +<p>If the mixture congeals before all the drops are made, melt it again +over the fire.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHOCOLATE_DROPS" id="CHOCOLATE_DROPS"></a>CHOCOLATE DROPS.</h4> + +<p>Scrape some of the best chocolate, and mix it with powdered white sugar. +Moisten it with a little<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span> water, so as to make a paste. Work it on a +plate with a knife. Then boil it in a pan with a lip, and pour it (a +drop at a time) into a cold tin pan. While moist, sprinkle colored +sugar-sand or non-pareils over the surface of each chocolate drop, which +drop must be of a good shape, and about the size of a sixpence. When +they are hardened, take them off the tin, by slipping under them the +point of a knife.</p> + +<p>Keep them in glass jars.</p> + +<p>After the chocolate has boiled, make the drops as fast as possible; for +if it gets cold before they are all done, it will injure it much to boil +it over again.</p> + +<p>The confectioners use for these purposes small leaden moulds, greased +with oil of almonds. Into these moulds they pour the mixture, so that +every thing comes out of the same size and shape.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="NOUGAT" id="NOUGAT"></a>NOUGAT.</h4> + +<p>This is a very fine confection. Take three quarters of a pound of +shelled sweet almonds, and one quarter of a pound of shelled bitter +almonds. Blanch them by scalding them in boiling water. Then throw them +into cold water, and take them out and wipe them. Cut them into small +pieces (but do not pound them,) and mix them well together.</p> + +<p>Take a pound of loaf-sugar broken small, and mix it with half a pint of +cold water, and an ounce of isinglass melted in a very little hot water. +Boil the sugar, and skim it well. When it is quite clear, throw in your +almonds, having first squeezed over them the juice of two lemons. Stir +the almonds well through the sugar; and as soon as they are properly +mixed with it, take the kettle off the fire.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span></p> + +<p>Have ready a mould or a square tin pan well greased with sweet-oil. Put +your mixture into it, a little at a time; dispersing the almonds equally +through the sugar, before it has time to get cold. But if it does chill +before the almonds are well mixed in it, set it again over the fire to +melt. Turn it frequently in the mould, to prevent its sticking. When it +has become a hard cake, set the mould for a moment in warm water, and +turn out the nougat.</p> + +<p>In stirring it, you had better use a wooden spoon.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ORGEAT_PASTE" id="ORGEAT_PASTE"></a>ORGEAT PASTE.</h4> + +<p>Take half a pound of shelled bitter almonds, and a pound and a half of +shelled sweet almonds. Blanch them, and pound them in a mortar one or +two at a time, pouring in frequently a little rose-water, which will +preserve their whiteness and prevent them from being oily and heavy. +Pound them to a fine smooth paste, and then mix them with a pound and a +half of loaf-sugar finely powdered.</p> + +<p>Put the mixture again into the mortar, a little at a time, and pound it +awhile that the sugar and almonds may be thoroughly incorporated; adding +still a little rose-water.</p> + +<p>When done, put it away in small covered pots or glasses, and it will +keep several months in a cool dry place. It makes a very fine drink.</p> + +<p>When you want to use it, put a small piece into a tumbler of cold water, +and stir it till dissolved.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak"> +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="LIQUEURS" id="LIQUEURS"></a>LIQUEURS.</h3> + +<hr class="decshort"> + +<p><span class="smcap">To</span> filter cordials, cover the bottom of a sieve with clean blotting +paper. Pour the liquor into it (having set a vessel underneath to +receive it), and let it drip through the paper and through the <a name="corr19" id="corr19"></a>sieve. +Renew the paper frequently, and fasten it down with pins.</p> + +<p>This process is slow, but it makes the liquor beautifully clear.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="NOYAU" id="NOYAU"></a>NOYAU.</h4> + +<p>Take six ounces of peach kernels, and one ounce of bitter almonds. Break +them slightly. Put them into a jug with three pints of white French +brandy. Let them infuse three weeks; shaking the jug every day. Then +drain the liquor from the kernels, and strain it through a linen bag. +Melt three quarters of a pound of the best loaf-sugar in a pint of +rose-water. Mix it with the liquor, and filter it through a sieve, the +bottom of which is to be covered on the inside with blotting paper. Let +the vessel which is placed underneath to receive the liquor be entirely +white, that you may be the better enabled to judge of its clearness. If +it is not clear the first time, repeat the filtering. Then bottle it for +use.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RASPBERRY_CORDIAL" id="RASPBERRY_CORDIAL"></a>RASPBERRY CORDIAL.</h4> + +<p>Take a quart of raspberry-juice, and half a pint of cherry-juice, the +fruit having been squeezed in a linen bag after the cherries have been +stoned. Mix the juices together, and dissolve in them two<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span> pounds of +loaf-sugar. Then add two quarts of French brandy; put it into a jug, and +let it rest five weeks. Afterwards strain it, and bottle it for use.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ROSE_CORDIAL" id="ROSE_CORDIAL"></a>ROSE CORDIAL.</h4> + +<p>Take a pound of the leaves of full-blown red roses. Put them into a +quart of lukewarm water, and let them infuse for two days, in a covered +vessel. Then squeeze them through a linen bag, to press out all the +liquid, and take as much white brandy as you have of the decoction of +roses. To a pint of the infusion add half a pound of loaf-sugar, and a +very small quantity of coriander and cinnamon. Put it into a jug, and +let it set for two weeks. Then filter it through blotting paper, and put +it into bottles.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="QUINCE_CORDIAL" id="QUINCE_CORDIAL"></a>QUINCE CORDIAL.</h4> + +<p>Pare your quinces, and scrape them to the core. Put all the scrapings +into a tureen, and see that there are no seeds among them. Let the +scrapings remain covered in the tureen for two days. Then put them into +a linen bag, and squeeze out all the juice. Measure it, and mix it with +an equal quantity of white brandy. To each pint of the mixture add half +a pound of loaf-sugar, and a little cinnamon and cloves. Put it into a +jug, and let it infuse for two months. Then filter it through blotting +paper, and bottle it. This cordial improves by age, and is excellent.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="LEMON_CORDIAL" id="LEMON_CORDIAL"></a>LEMON CORDIAL.</h4> + +<p>Pare off very thin the yellow rind of some fine lemons. Cut the lemons +in half, and squeeze out<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span> all the juice. To each pint of the juice, +allow half a pound of loaf-sugar. Mix the juice, the peel, and the sugar +together; cover it, and let it set twenty-four hours. Then mix it with +an equal quantity of white brandy, put it into a jug, and let it set a +month. Then strain it through a linen bag; and afterwards filter it +through blotting paper, before you bottle it.</p> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="divisionhead"><a name="PART_THE_EIGHTH" id="PART_THE_EIGHTH"></a>PART THE EIGHTH.</h2> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span></p> + + +<hr class="chapbreak"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span></p> + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="MISCELLANEOUS_RECEIPTS" id="MISCELLANEOUS_RECEIPTS"></a>MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.</h3> + +<hr class="decshort"> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRENCH_COFFEE" id="FRENCH_COFFEE"></a>FRENCH COFFEE.</h4> + +<p><span class="smcap">Let</span> the coffee be roasted immediately before you want to use it, as it +loses much of its strength by keeping. Its color, when done, should be a +fine bright brown; but by no means allow it to scorch. A cylindrical +coffee-roaster that can be turned by a handle, and sets before the fire, +is far preferable to a pot or a pan. Grind the coffee while warm.</p> + +<p>If you intend to make half a dozen cups of coffee for drinking, measure +six cups of water of the same size, and put the water into the +coffee-pot. Set it on hot coals, and when the water boils, put in two or +three chips of isinglass, or the white of an egg. Then throw in six +large tea-spoonfuls of ground coffee. Stir it several times while +boiling, and set it several times back from the fire to diminish the +boiling gradually. When it has boiled sufficiently, remove it entirely +from the coals, pour in a cup of cold water, and then put it in a corner +and let it settle for half an hour. Afterwards pour it off from the +grounds into another pot (which must first be scalded), and set it close +to the fire, but do not let it boil again.</p> + +<p>If you intend to serve it up with hot cream, you must make the coffee +stronger. While the coffee is clearing, boil your cream or milk, and +pour some of it hot into each cup of coffee.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COFFEE_WITHOUT_BOILING" id="COFFEE_WITHOUT_BOILING"></a>COFFEE WITHOUT BOILING.</h4> + +<p>Coffee made without boiling is much stronger, more economical, and less +troublesome than the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span> usual way; but it requires a pot of a particular +construction. The best sort of pot for this purpose is called in French +a Grecque (Greek). It must be made of the best block-tin, and of a tall +cylindrical shape, with the spout very near the bottom. The receptacle +for the coffee-powder fits into the upper part of the coffee-pot, and +must be taken out when washed. The bottom of this receiver is pierced +with very small holes, and there are two other strainers, made of +movable plates of tin, also covered with fine holes. These two strainers +fit into the receiver. The powdered coffee is to be placed between them, +so that it may filter through the lower strainer, and also through the +holes at the bottom of the receiver. Having scalded the pot, put the +coffee into the receiver between the two movable strainers, and pour in +some water which must be boiling hard at the time. The coffee will then +drain through into the lower part of the pot where the spout is, and +will clear itself in passing through the holes. Shut down the lid, place +the pot near the fire, and the coffee will be ready for use as soon as +it has done draining through.</p> + +<p>Allow a large tea-spoonful of the powder for each cup that you intend to +have.</p> + +<p>This mode of preparing coffee is very expeditious, and requires neither +isinglass nor white of egg.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHOCOLATE" id="CHOCOLATE"></a>CHOCOLATE.</h4> + +<p>Never boil chocolate in milk, as that spoils the flavor; and do not +scrape it, but merely cut it into pieces. To an ounce of chocolate allow +a cup of boiling water.</p> + +<p>Having first scalded the pot, put in the chocolate, pour the water on +it, and boil it till one third has evaporated. Then supply that third +with cream or milk, and take it immediately from the fire.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span></p> + +<p>You need not stir it more than two or three times.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FINE_LEMONADE" id="FINE_LEMONADE"></a>FINE LEMONADE.</h4> + +<p>Allow a whole lemon and four or five lumps of loaf-sugar to half a pint +of cold water. Roll the lemons hard on a table to make them more juicy. +Cut them in half, and squeeze them over the sugar. Then pour on the +water, and stir till the sugar is dissolved. Take out whatever seeds may +have fallen in. In warm weather, put a lump of ice into each glass.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PUNCH" id="PUNCH"></a>PUNCH.</h4> + +<p>Take three large lemons, and roll them very hard on the table to make +them more juicy. Then pare them as thin as possible. Cut out the pulp, +and throw away the seeds and the white part of the rind. Put the yellow +rind and the pulp into a pint of boiling water; set it on the fire, and +let it boil two or three minutes. Take it off, and throw in a +tea-spoonful of raw green tea of the best sort, and let it infuse about +five minutes. Then strain it through linen. Stir into it three quarters +of a pound of loaf-sugar, and a pint of brandy, or any other suitable +liquor. Set it again over the fire, and when it is just ready to boil, +remove it, and pour it into a china bowl or pitcher.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CONVENIENT_LEMONADE" id="CONVENIENT_LEMONADE"></a>CONVENIENT LEMONADE.</h4> + +<p>Take four ounces of powdered tartaric acid, and two drachms of essential +oil of lemon. Mix them together, and keep them in a well-corked phial. A +table-spoonful mixed with sugar and water, will make six or eight +glasses of lemonade.</p> + +<p>It will keep about a month, but not longer, as it will then lose its +strength.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span></p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRENCH_MUSTARD" id="FRENCH_MUSTARD"></a>FRENCH MUSTARD.</h4> + +<p>Put on a plate an ounce of the very best mustard powder, with a +salt-spoon of salt, a few leaves of tarragon, and a clove of garlic +minced fine. Pour on by degrees sufficient vinegar to dilute it to the +proper consistence (about a wine-glassful), and mix it well with a +wooden spoon. Do not use it in less than twenty-four hours after it is +mixed.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="POTATO_FLOUR" id="POTATO_FLOUR"></a>POTATO FLOUR.</h4> + +<p>Potato flour is excellent for sponge-cake, and other things which +require extraordinary lightness. It is also good for young children, and +for convalescent sick persons.</p> + +<p>Take the best and most mealy potatoes; pare them, and wash them through +several waters. Then rasp or grate them over a tureen half full of cold +water. Continue to grate the potatoes till the lower half of the tureen +is filled with the pulp, so that the water may rise to the top. The +mealy part of the potatoes will sink to the bottom, while the remainder +or the useless part will rise to the surface. When nothing more rises, +pour off the water carefully, and dry the flour which you find at the +bottom. When quite dry, pound it in a mortar to a fine powder, and sift +it through a sieve.</p> + +<p>Potato flour is much lighter than that of wheat.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COLD_PICKLES" id="COLD_PICKLES"></a>COLD PICKLES.</h4> + +<p>Season some of the best vinegar with a little garlic, a little tarragon, +and a little sweet-oil. Put it into a glass jar, and keep it well +covered. You may throw into it the green seeds of nasturtians, morella +cherries, little onions, small young carrots when but a finger long, +radish pods, and various<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span> other things. Keep the jar well closed, and +the pickles will be as good and keep as long as if they had been boiled.</p> + +<p>Nasturtians and cherries will keep in plain vinegar without any +seasoning.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CORNICHONS" id="CORNICHONS"></a>CORNICHONS, OR FRENCH CUCUMBER PICKLES.</h4> + +<p>Take ten pounds of very small cucumbers. Brush them all over to clean +them well, and cut off the stems. Put them into an earthen pan with two +handfuls of salt. Let them rest twenty-four hours, and then drain them. +When they are well drained, put them back into the same pan, and pour in +a quantity of boiling hot white wine vinegar, sufficient to cover them. +Then cover the pan carefully with a lid or dish, and let the cucumbers +set in the vinegar twenty-four hours. They will then be yellow. Pour the +vinegar from them, and cover them with vine-leaves. Boil the vinegar +again, and when it boils throw it over the cucumbers, stirring them +well.</p> + +<p>When the vinegar is cold, pour it from the cucumbers, and boil it again. +Then pour it over them, and proceed in this manner four or five times, +till they become of a fine green. Keep them in the interval always +covered with a layer of vine-leaves, fresh each time, and also with a +cloth kept down by a large dish. This, by keeping in the steam, will +assist them in greening.</p> + +<p>Then drain them on a sieve, and put them into glass jars.</p> + +<p>Afterwards, boil some fresh white wine vinegar, first mixing in it the +following seasoning. To every quart of vinegar allow half an ounce of +mace, half an ounce of sliced ginger, half an ounce of whole black +pepper, six cloves, a few sprigs of tarragon, and half a clove of +garlic.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span></p> + +<p>Boil the vinegar with these ingredients for five minutes, and then pour +it hot on the pickles. Tie them up carefully. They may be used in a +week.</p> + +<p>The generality of French pickles, are made in a manner similar to those +of England and America.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FINE_COLOGNE_WATER" id="FINE_COLOGNE_WATER"></a>FINE COLOGNE WATER.</h4> + +<p>Procure at an apothecary’s the following oils and have them all put into +the same phial:—Oil of lemon, 2 drams; oil of rosemary, 2 drams; oil of +lavender, 1 dram; oil of bergamot, 2 drams; oil of cinnamon, 10 drops; +oil of cloves, 10 drops; oil of roses, 2 drops; tincture of musk, 8 +drops.</p> + +<p>Put 2 pint of highly rectified spirits of wine into a bottle, and pour +the oils into it. Shake it hard for a few minutes, having corked it +tightly. It will be fit for immediate use, but it improves by keeping.</p> + +<p>If you wish it stronger, double the quantity of all the oils, but have +only a pint of spirits of wine.</p> + + +<p class="centertop2">THE END.</p> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak"> + +<div class="tn"> +<p class="titlepage"><a name="trans_note" id="trans_note"></a><b>Transcriber’s Note</b></p> + +<p class="noindent">The following typographical errors were corrected.</p> + +<table class="tntable" summary="typos" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0"> +<tbody><tr> + <td class="tdr">Page</td> + <td>Error</td> + <td>Correction</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr1">v</a></td> + <td>Green Peas Soup ib</td> + <td>Green Peas Soup ib.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr2">v</a></td> + <td>Garlic Butter ib</td> + <td>Garlic Butter ib.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr3">vi</a></td> + <td>Hazlenut</td> + <td>Hazelnut</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr4">viii</a></td> + <td>French Cakes</td> + <td>French Paste</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr5">ix</a></td> + <td>Chocolate Drops ib</td> + <td>Chocolate Drops ib.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr6">16</a></td> + <td>our pounds</td> + <td>four pounds</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr7">21</a></td> + <td>marmelade</td> + <td>marmalade</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr8">31</a></td> + <td>rolled in flour</td> + <td>rolled in flour,</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr9">31</a></td> + <td>en minutes</td> + <td>ten minutes</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr10">32</a></td> + <td>SIRLOIN OF BEEF</td> + <td>SIRLOIN OF BEEF.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr11">33</a></td> + <td>hem round</td> + <td>them round</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr12">34</a></td> + <td>pen-knife,</td> + <td>pen-knife.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr13">67</a></td> + <td>same manner</td> + <td>same manner.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr14">70</a></td> + <td>of brandy</td> + <td>of brandy.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr15">73</a></td> + <td>warm water</td> + <td>warm water.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr16">82</a></td> + <td>Ham Omelet</td> + <td>Ham Omelet.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr17">92</a></td> + <td>over its inside</td> + <td>over its inside.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr18">103</a></td> + <td>sieve or cullender</td> + <td>sieve or cullender.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr19">110</a></td> + <td>through the sieve,</td> + <td>through the sieve.</td> +</tr> +</tbody></table> + +<p class="noindent">The following words were inconsistently spelled or hyphenated.</p> + +<p class="noindent">bread-crumbs / breadcrumbs<br> +sauce-pan / saucepan<br> +sponge-cake / spunge-cake<br> +spongy / spungy<br> +sweet-herbs / sweet herbs</p> +</div> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Domestic French Cookery, 4th ed., by Sulpice Barué + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DOMESTIC FRENCH COOKERY, 4TH ED. *** + +***** This file should be named 34837-h.htm or 34837-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/4/8/3/34837/ + +Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Domestic French Cookery, 4th ed. + +Author: Sulpice Barue + +Translator: Eliza Leslie + +Release Date: January 3, 2011 [EBook #34837] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DOMESTIC FRENCH COOKERY, 4TH ED. *** + + + + +Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + + + + +Transcriber's Note + +Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A list of corrections +is found at the end of the text. Inconsistencies in spelling and +hyphenation have been maintained. A list of inconsistently spelled and +hyphenated words is found at the end of the text. + + + + + DOMESTIC + FRENCH COOKERY, + + CHIEFLY + TRANSLATED FROM SULPICE BARUE. + + + BY MISS LESLIE, + AUTHOR OF "SEVENTY-FIVE RECEIPTS," &C. + + + FOURTH EDITION. + + + Philadelphia: + CAREY & HART--CHESTNUT STREET. + 1836. + + + + +Entered according to the Act of Congress, the 25th day of October, 1832, +by + +E. L. CAREY & A. HART, + +in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Eastern District of +Pennsylvania. + + +STEREOTYPED BY J. HOWE. + + + + +PREFACE. + + +The design of the following little book is to furnish receipts for a +select variety of French dishes, explained and described in such a +manner as to make them intelligible to American cooks, and practicable +with American utensils and American fuel. Those that (according to the +original work) cannot be prepared without an unusual and foreign +apparatus have been omitted; and also such as can only be accomplished +by the consummate skill and long practice of native French cooks. + +Many dishes have been left out, as useless in a country where provisions +are abundant. On this side of the Atlantic all persons in respectable +life can obtain better articles of food than sheeps' tails, calves' +ears, &c. and the preparation of these articles (according to the +European receipts) is too tedious and complicated to be of any use to +the indigent, or to those who can spare but little time for their +cookery. + +Also, the translator has inserted no receipts which contain nothing +different from the usual American mode of preparing the same dishes. + +Most of the French Cookery Books introduced into this country have +failed in their object, from the evident deficiency of the translators +in a competent knowledge of the technical terms of cookery and from the +multitude of French words interspersed through the directions, and which +cannot, in general, be comprehended without an incessant and troublesome +reference to the glossary. + +The translator of the following pages has endeavored, according to the +best of her ability, to avoid these defects, and has aimed at making a +book of practical utility to all those who may have a desire to +introduce occasionally at their tables good specimens of the French +culinary art. + +From these receipts she believes that many advantageous hints may be +taken for improvements in American cookery; and she hopes that, upon +trial, this little work may be found equally useful in private families, +hotels, and boarding-houses. + + _Philadelphia, September, 1832._ + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + SOUPS. + + Beef Soup Page 13 + Consomme, or Jelly Soup 14 + Pease Soup ib. + Maccaroni Soup ib. + Chestnut Soup 15 + Almond Soup ib. + Lobster Soup ib. + Oyster Soup 16 + Green Peas Soup ib. + + + GRAVIES, OR ESSENCES. + + Brown Gravy 17 + White Gravy ib. + Essence of Game ib. + To Clarify Gravies or Essences 18 + Veloute, or Velvet Essence ib. + + + SAUCES, &c. + + Bechamel 19 + Another Bechamel ib. + Drawn Butter ib. + Melted Butter, another way 20 + Cold Sauce for Fish ib. + Sauce for Vegetables ib. + Pungent Sauce, or Sauce Piquante 21 + Anchovy Sauce ib. + Curry Sauce ib. + Tomata Sauce ib. + Cucumber Sauce 22 + Bread Sauce ib. + Sauce Robert ib. + Shalot or Onion Sauce 23 + Universal Sauce ib. + Lobster Sauce ib. + Spinach for coloring Green 24 + Garlic Butter ib. + Hazelnut Butter 24 + Larding ib. + + + MEATS. + + Veal a la Mode 29 + Veal Cutlets ib. + Blanquette, or Fricassee of Veal 30 + Godiveau ib. + Calves' Liver baked ib. + Calves' Liver fried 31 + Veal Kidneys ib. + Grillades ib. + Liver Cake 32 + Sirloin of Beef ib. + Stewed Beef ib. + Beef Steaks 33 + Beef a la Mode ib. + Roasted Ham 34 + Fried Ham with Tomatas 35 + Roasted Tongue ib. + Baked Tongue 36 + Potted Tongue ib. + Leg of Mutton with Oysters 37 + Cutlets a la Maintenon ib. + Pork Cutlets ib. + Larded Rabbit 38 + Rabbits in Papers ib. + Pilau ib. + Veal Sweetbreads 39 + + + GAME AND POULTRY. + + A Salmi 43 + Cold Salmi ib. + Ragooed Livers 44 + A fine Hash ib. + Marinade of Fowls ib. + Fricassee of Fowls 45 + Fowls with Tarragon ib. + A stewed Fowl 46 + Chickens in Jelly ib. + Pulled Chickens 47 + Stewed Turkey, or Turkey en Daube 48 + Roasted Turkey ib. + Potted Goose 49 + Ducks with Turnips 50 + A Duck with Olives ib. + A Duck with Peas ib. + Turkey Puddings 51 + Baked Pigeons, or Pigeons a la Crapaudine ib. + Broiled Pigeons 52 + Pigeons Pear-fashion (Pigeons au poire) ib. + Pigeons with Peas ib. + Roasted Partridges 53 + Partridges with Cabbage ib. + A Partridge Pie ib. + Roasted Pheasants 54 + Broiled Quails 55 + Roasted Plovers ib. + + + FISH. + + Stewed Salmon 59 + Roasted Salmon ib. + Broiled Salmon 60 + Salt Cod Fish ib. + Broiled Fresh Mackerel 61 + Broiled Fresh Shad ib. + Hashed Fish ib. + Lobster Pie 62 + Oyster Loaves ib. + + + VEGETABLES. + + Stewed Lettuce 65 + Stewed Spinach ib. + Stewed Cucumbers 66 + Stewed Beets ib. + Stewed Carrots ib. + Stewed Cabbage ib. + Stewed Peas 67 + Stewed Beans ib. + Stewed Onions 68 + Onions stewed in Wine ib. + Stewed Mushrooms ib. + Stewed Potatoes 69 + Stewed Potatoes with Turnips ib. + Asparagus with Cream ib. + Potatoes stewed whole 70 + Fried Potatoes 70 + Fried Cauliflower ib. + Fried Celery 71 + Broiled Mushrooms ib. + Stuffed Cabbage (Choux farcis) 72 + Stuffed Potatoes ib. + Stuffed Cucumbers 73 + Stuffed Tomatas ib. + Cauliflowers with Cheese 74 + Ragooed Cabbage ib. + Ragooed Mushrooms 75 + + + PUREES. + + Puree of Turnips 76 + Puree of Celery ib. + Puree of Onions ib. + Puree of Mushrooms 77 + Puree of Beans ib. + Puree of Green Peas 78 + + + EGGS, &c. + + Boiled eggs 79 + Fried Eggs ib. + Stewed Eggs 80 + Stuffed Eggs ib. + Egg Snow ib. + Pancakes 81 + Omelets ib. + Maccaroni 82 + Maccaroni Pie ib. + Blancmange in Eggs 83 + + + PASTRY, CAKES, &c. + + French Paste 87 + Puff-Paste ib. + Cream Tarts 88 + Almond Tarts ib. + Rissoles 89 + Almond Custards ib. + Vanilla Custards ib. + Chocolate Custards 90 + Coffee Custards ib. + Tea Custards 91 + Rice Pottage ib. + Apple Fritters ib. + Bread Fritters 92 + Rice Cake ib. + Potato Cake 93 + Sponge Cake, or Biscuit ib. + Croquettes 94 + Marguerites ib. + Wafers 95 + Gingerbread 96 + + + PREPARATIONS OF FRUIT, SUGAR, &c. + + An Apple Charlotte 99 + Apple Compote ib. + Compote of Pears 100 + Compote of Chestnuts ib. + Fried Apples 101 + Peach Marmalade ib. + Brandy Peaches ib. + Gooseberry Pottage 102 + Fruit Jellies 103 + Preserved Pumpkin 104 + Preserved Raspberries ib. + Orange Jelly 105 + Clarified Sugar ib. + Fruit in Sugar Coats 106 + Burnt Almonds ib. + Peppermint Drops 107 + Chocolate Drops ib. + Nougat 108 + Orgeat Paste 109 + + + LIQUEURS. + + Noyau 110 + Raspberry Cordial ib. + Rose Cordial 111 + Quince Cordial ib. + Lemon Cordial ib. + + + MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. + + French Coffee 115 + Coffee without boiling ib. + Chocolate 116 + Fine Lemonade 117 + Punch ib. + Convenient Lemonade ib. + French Mustard 113 + Potato Flour ib. + Cold Pickles ib. + Cornichons or Cucumber Pickles 119 + Fine Cologne Water 120 + + + + +PART THE FIRST. + + + + +SOUPS. + + +BEEF SOUP. + +The best soup is made of the lean of fine fresh beef. The proportion is +four pounds of meat to a gallon of water. It should boil at least six +hours. Mutton soup may be made in the same manner. + +Put the meat into cold water, with a little salt; set it over a good +fire; let it boil slowly but constantly, and skim it well. When no more +fat rises to the top, put in what quantity you please of carrots, +turnips, leeks, celery, and parsley, all cut into small pieces; add, if +you choose, a laurel-leaf, or two or three peach-leaves, a few cloves, +and a large burnt onion, to heighten the color of the soup. Grate a +large red carrot, and strew it over the top. Then continue to let it +boil, gently but steadily, till dinner time. Next to the quantity and +quality of the meat, nothing is more necessary to the excellence of soup +than to keep the fire moderate, and to see that it is boiling all the +time, but not too fast. + +Have ready in the tureen some toasted bread, cut into small squares; +pour the soup over the bread, passing it through a sieve, so as to +strain it thoroughly. Some, however, prefer serving it up with all the +vegetables in it. + +The soup will be improved by boiling in it the remains of a piece of +cold roast beef. Soups made of veal, chickens, &c. are only fit for +invalids. + +After you have strained out the vegetables, you may put into the soup +some vermicelli (allowing two ounces to each quart), and then boil it +ten minutes longer. + + +CONSOMME, OR JELLY SOUP. + +Into two quarts of cold water, put four pounds of the lean of the best +beef-steaks, and a large fowl cut into pieces, four large carrots, four +onions, four leeks, a bunch of sweet herbs (parsley, thyme, sweet +marjoram, sweet basil, and chives), tied up with a laurel-leaf, or two +peach-leaves, and four cloves; add a little salt and pepper. Boil it +gently for eight hours, skimming it well; then strain it. + + +PEASE SOUP. + +Take two quarts of dried split peas, the evening before you intend +making the soup, and putting them into lukewarm water, let them soak all +night. In the morning, put the peas into a pan or pot with three quarts +of cold water, a pound of bacon, and a pound of the lean of fresh beef. +Cut up two carrots, two onions, and two heads of celery, and put them +into the soup, with a bunch of sweet herbs, and three or four cloves. +Boil it slowly five or six hours, till the peas can no longer be +distinguished, having lost all shape and form; then strain it, and serve +it up. + + +MACCARONI SOUP. + +First make some good beef soup (without any vegetables), and when it is +sufficiently boiled, strain it through a sieve. Take some maccaroni, in +the proportion of half a pound to two quarts of soup. Boil it in water +until it is tender, adding to it a little butter. Then lay it on a sieve +to drain, and cut it into small pieces. Throw it into the soup, and boil +all together ten minutes or more. Grate some rich cheese over it before +you send it to table. + + +CHESTNUT SOUP. + +Having made some beef soup without vegetables, strain it, and put in a +pint of peeled chestnuts for each quart of soup. Boil it again till the +chestnuts have gone all to pieces, and have become a part of the liquid. + +A still better way is, to roast or bake the chestnuts first, (having cut +a slit in the shell of each,) then peel them, and throw them into the +soup ten minutes before you take it from the fire. + + +ALMOND SOUP. + +Take half a pound of shelled sweet almonds, and two ounces of shelled +bitter almonds, or peach-kernels. Scald them, to make the skins peel off +easily, and when they are blanched, throw them into cold water. Then +drain and wipe them dry. Beat them (a few at a time) in a marble mortar, +adding as you beat them, a little milk and a little grated lemon-peel. + +Have ready two quarts of rich milk, boiled with two sticks of cinnamon +and a quarter of a pound of sugar. Stir the almonds gradually into the +milk, and let them have one boil up. Prepare some slices of toasted +bread, take out a little of the soup and soak them in it. Then lay them +in the bottom of a tureen, and pour the soup over them. Grate on some +nutmeg. + + +LOBSTER SOUP. + +Having boiled a large lobster, extract all the meat from the shell. Fry +in butter some thin slices of bread, put them into a marble mortar, one +at a time, alternately with some of the meat of the lobster, and pound +the whole to a paste till it is all done. Then melt some butter in a +stew-pan, and put in the mixed bread and lobster. Add a quart of boiling +milk, with salt, mace, and nutmeg to your taste. Let the whole stew +gently for half an hour. + + +OYSTER SOUP. + +Take two quarts of oysters; drain them, and cut out the hard part. Have +ready a dozen eggs, boiled hard; cut them in pieces, and pound them in a +mortar alternately with the oysters. Boil the liquor of the oysters with +a head of celery cut small, two grated nutmegs, a tea-spoonful of mace, +and a tea-spoonful of cloves, with two tea-spoonfuls of salt, and a +tea-spoonful of whole pepper. When the liquor has boiled, stir in the +pounded eggs and oysters, a little at a time. Give it one more boil, and +then serve it up. + +Salt oysters will not do for soup. + + +GREEN PEAS SOUP. + +Make a good beef soup, with the proportion of four pounds of lean beef +to a gallon of water. Boil it slowly, and skim it well. In another pot +boil two quarts of green peas, with a large bunch of mint, a little +salt, and three or four lumps of loaf sugar. When they are quite soft, +take them out, strain them from the water, and mash them in a cullender +till all the pulp drips through. Then stir it into the soup after you +have taken it up and strained it. Prepare some toasted bread cut into +small squares, lay it in a tureen, and pour the soup over it. + +When you toast bread for soups, stews, &c. always cut off the crust. + + + + +GRAVIES, OR ESSENCES. + + +BROWN GRAVY. (JUS.) + +Put into a sauce-pan, or skillet, five or six onions, and as many +carrots cut into small pieces, with about two pounds of scraps of beef, +in which there must be none of the fat. Pour over them a pint of water. +Cover the pan, and begin with a brisk fire. When the gravy has become +brown, add a little boiling water (or broth if you have it), with a +tea-spoonful of salt, three or four cloves, and a bunch of sweet herbs. +Diminish the fire, and let the gravy stew gently for an hour and a half. +Occasionally prick the meat with a fork, and press it with the back of a +spoon to extract its juices. Then strain it through a sieve, and let it +stand a while before you use it. + +In addition to the beef, you may put in pieces of cold goose, or cold +duck. + + +WHITE GRAVY. (COULIS.) + +Butter the bottom of a sauce-pan, and put in two pounds of scraps of +veal, and, if you have it at hand, some cold fowl, or cold turkey; add +two white onions, and four or five blades of mace; pour over it a pint +of boiling water, or broth; cover the pan, and set it over a slow fire +for five or six hours, pricking and pressing the meat with a fork and +spoon. Strain it through a sieve, and if it is too thin, set it again +over the fire, to stew a while longer. + + +ESSENCE OF GAME. + +Take scraps of any kind of game (partridges, pheasants, hares, &c.), and +also four calves feet, and a few small pieces of ham. Put them all into +a stew-pan, with half a bottle of white wine, two carrots, two onions, +and a bunch of sweet herbs. Stew them over a slow fire for four hours, +and when they are reduced to a jelly, moisten it with four +table-spoonfuls of hot water, or broth, stirred in gently. Strain it +through a sieve, and then clear it by stirring in the whites of three +eggs slightly beaten. + + +TO CLARIFY GRAVIES, OR ESSENCES + +Having strained your gravy through a sieve, beat slightly the whites of +three eggs, and stir them into it. Place it again on the fire, and stir +it till it comes to a boil; then take it from the fire, and put it away +to settle. Strain it then through a napkin, and you will have a +transparent jelly excellent for making fine sauces. + + +VELOUTE, OR VELVET ESSENCE. + +Take half a pound of scraps of veal, the same quantity of pieces of +fowls, and twelve or fifteen mushrooms; stew them slowly in butter, and +then add two onions, half a carrot, and a bunch of sweet herbs cut +small, three table-spoonfuls of flour, three of boiling water or broth, +and salt, pepper, and nutmeg to your taste. Let it stew an hour and a +half, and then strain it. + + + + +SAUCES, &c. + + +When sauces are finished with eggs, use only the yolks, and mix them +first with but a spoonful or two of the sauce; mix them off the fire. +Set on the pan again for two or three moments, but do not let it boil +after the eggs are in. + + +BECHAMEL. + +Put into a sauce-pan a quarter of a pound of butter sprinkled with +flour, three or four onions, and a carrot cut small, a little parsley, +and a dozen mushrooms. Set it over the fire until the butter is melted, +and then add three table-spoonfuls of flour stirred into a pint of cream +or rich milk, with salt, pepper, and nutmeg to your taste. Stir it till +it boils; then reduce the fire, and let the bechamel stew gently for +three quarters of an hour. When it is done, strain it, and then stir in +the yolks of three eggs. + + +ANOTHER BECHAMEL. + +Cut into dice, or small square pieces, half a pound of bacon or ham, a +carrot, a turnip, and two onions. Put them into a sauce-pan, with two +large spoonfuls of veal-dripping; add a little butter (about two +ounces), and two large spoonfuls of flour. Moisten it with boiling +water, or broth. Add nutmeg, cloves, thyme, parsley, salt, and pepper to +your taste; also a laurel-leaf. Let it stew for an hour. Strain it, and +before you serve it up, squeeze in a little lemon-juice. + + +DRAWN BUTTER. + +Put into a small pan a table-spoonful of flour and a tumbler of water, +with salt to your taste, and a little pepper. Stir it till it boils. +Then withdraw it from the fire, and add two ounces of butter and a few +drops of cold water, with a little lemon-juice, or vinegar. Set it on +the stove, or near the fire, and keep it warm till it is wanted. + +You may thicken it while boiling with mushrooms, cut small; or after it +is done with hard eggs chopped fine, pickled cucumbers chopped, or +capers. + + +MELTED BUTTER--_another way_. + +Put into a sauce-pan a quarter of a pound of butter. When quite melted +over the fire, throw in a large spoonful of flour, and add a half pint +of boiling water, and salt to your taste. Boil it a few minutes, and +then put in a tea-spoonful of cold water. If intended as sauce for a +pudding, stir in at the last a glass of white wine, and half a grated +nutmeg. + + +COLD SAUCE FOR FISH. + +Cut small, and pound in a mortar, equal proportions of parsley, chervil, +tarragon, chives and burnet, with two yolks of hard-boiled eggs. Pass +these ingredients through a cullender, and then mix them on a plate with +four table-spoonfuls of sweet oil, two of vinegar, and two of mustard. +Use a wooden spoon. + + +SAUCE FOR VEGETABLES--SUCH AS ASPARAGUS, &c. + +Take the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs; mash them on a plate with the +back of a wooden spoon, and mix them with three table-spoonfuls of +vinegar, a shalot or small onion minced fine, and a little salt and +Cayenne pepper. Add three table-spoonfuls of olive oil, and mix the +whole very well. + + +PUNGENT SAUCE. (SAUCE PIQUANTE.) + +Put into a saucepan a half-pint of vinegar, a branch of thyme, two or +three sprigs of sweet marjoram, a leaf of laurel, a clove of garlic, a +shalot or a little onion, and Cayenne pepper and salt to your taste. Add +a glass of broth or gravy. Stew the whole slowly till it is reduced to +two thirds of the original quantity: then strain it. + + +ANCHOVY SAUCE--FOR FISH. + +Cut the flesh of three anchovies into small shreds, and steep them in +vinegar for half an hour or more. Then mince them fine, and throw them +into a saucepan with a little butter rolled in flour. Add pepper and +mustard to your taste. Pour in sufficient vinegar to cover it, and let +it boil gently for a quarter of an hour. Strain it, and squeeze in a +little lemon-juice before you serve it up. + + +CURRY SAUCE. + +Put into a sauce-pan two ounces of butter and a table-spoonful of +curry-powder (or of powdered turmeric if more convenient), half a grated +nutmeg, half a spoonful of saffron, and two spoonfuls of flour. Add +sufficient boiling water or broth to cover it, and let it stew a quarter +of an hour. Strain it, stir in a little more butter, and serve it up. + + +TOMATA SAUCE. + +Bake ten tomatas, with pepper and salt, till they become like a +marmalade. Then add a little flour or grated bread crumbs, and a little +broth or hot water. Stew it gently ten minutes, and before you send it +to table add two ounces of butter and let it melt in the sauce. + + +CUCUMBER SAUCE. + +Put into a sauce-pan a piece of butter rolled in flour, some salt, +pepper, and one or two pickled cucumbers minced fine. Moisten it with +boiling water. Let it stew gently a few minutes, and serve it up. + + +BREAD SAUCE. + +Take four ounces of grated stale bread; pour over it sufficient milk to +cover it, and let it soak about three quarters of an hour, or till it +becomes incorporated with the milk. Then add a dozen corns of black +pepper, a little salt, and a piece of butter the size of a walnut. Pour +on a little more milk, and give it a boil. Serve it up in a sauce-boat, +and eat it with roast wild fowl, or roast pig. + +Instead of the pepper, you may boil in it a hand full of dried currants, +well picked, washed, and floured. + + +SAUCE ROBERT. + +Put into a sauce-pan a quarter of a pound of butter, with a spoonful of +flour. Simmer them till of a fine brown color. Mince half a dozen large +onions, and a large slice of cold ham. Put them into the pan, with +another piece of butter, and a very little broth or warm water. Skim the +sauce well, and let it stew gently for twenty minutes. Before you serve +it up, stir in a table-spoonful of lemon-juice or vinegar, and a +tea-spoonful of mustard. This sauce is used chiefly for fresh pork, or +white poultry. + + +SHALOT OR ONION SAUCE. (SAUCE RAVIGOTE.) + +Take a handful of sweet herbs and the same quantity of shalots or little +onions, and cut them up small. Put them into a sauce-pan, with some +vinegar, salt, pepper, and sufficient broth or warm water to cover them. +Let them boil gently for a quarter of an hour. Take the sauce from the +fire and set it on the stove, or on the hearth, and stir in (till it +melts) a piece of butter rolled in flour, or a spoonful of olive oil. + + +UNIVERSAL SAUCE. + +Take a pint of good broth, or a pint of drawn butter. Stir into it a +glass of white wine, and half the peel of a lemon grated. Add a laurel +leaf, or two or three peach-leaves, and a spoonful of vinegar. Let the +mixture simmer on a few coals or on hot ashes, for five or six hours or +more, and it will be good to pour over either meat, poultry, or fish, +and will keep several days in a cool place. + + +LOBSTER SAUCE. + +The lobster being boiled, extract the meat from the shell, and beat it +in a mortar. Rub it through a cullender or sieve, and put it into a +sauce-pan with a spoonful of veloute (or velvet essence) if you have it, +and one of broth. Mix it well, and add a piece of butter, some salt, and +some Cayenne pepper. Stew it ten minutes, and serve it up, to eat with +boiled fresh fish. + + +SPINACH FOR COLORING GREEN. + +Take three handfuls of spinach, and pound it in a mortar to extract the +juice. Then put it into a sauce-pan and set it over a slow fire. When it +is just ready to boil, take it off and strain it. By stirring in a small +quantity of spinach-juice, you may give any sauce a green color. + + +GARLIC BUTTER. + +Take two large cloves of garlic and pound them to a paste in a mortar, +adding, by degrees, a piece of butter the size of an egg. You may with a +little of this butter give the taste of garlic to sauces. Some persons +like a piece of garlic butter on the table, to eat with roast meat. + + +HAZELNUT BUTTER. + +Having scalded and blanched some hazelnuts, pound them to a paste in a +mortar, adding gradually a small quantity of butter. + +This is good to eat with wild fowl, or to flavor the most delicate +sauces. + + +LARDING. + +Larding with slips of fat bacon greatly improves the taste and +appearance of meat, poultry, game, &c. and is much used in French +cookery. + +For this purpose, you must have a larding-pin (which may be purchased at +the hardware stores); it is a steel instrument about a foot in length, +sharp at one end, and cleft at the other into four divisions which are +near two inches long, and resembling tweezers. + +Bacon is the proper meat to lard with; the fat only is used. Cut it into +slips not exceeding two inches in length, half an inch in breadth, and +half an inch in thickness, and smaller if intended for poultry; they +will diminish in cooking. Put these slips of bacon (one at a time) into +the cleft or split end of the larding-pin. Give each slip a slight twist +and press it down hard into the pin, with your fingers. Then run the pin +through the meat or fowl (avoiding the bones), and when you draw it out +on the under side it will have left the slip of bacon sticking in the +upper side. Take care to arrange the slips in regular rows and at equal +distances; have them all of the same size, and let every one stick up +about an inch from the surface of the meat. If any are wrong, take them +out and do them over again. + +Fowls and birds are generally larded on the breast only. To lard +handsomely and neatly, practice and dexterity are requisite. + +Cold poultry may be larded with slips of the fat of cold boiled ham, and +when not to be cooked again, it may be made to look very tastefully. + +The slips for cold poultry should be very small, scarcely thicker than a +straw. + + + + +PART THE SECOND. + + + + +MEATS. + + +VEAL A LA MODE. + +Rub a fillet of veal all over with salt, and then lard it. Make a +seasoning of chopped sweet-herbs, shalots, mushrooms, pepper, salt, and +powdered nutmeg, and mace. Moisten it with sweet oil, and cover the veal +all over with it. Put the veal into a tureen, and let it set for several +hours or all night. Then take it out, covered as it is with the +seasoning, and wrap it in two sheets of white paper, well buttered, and +roast or bake it. When it is quite done, take off the paper, and scrape +off all the seasoning from the veal. Put the seasoning into a sauce-pan +with the gravy, the juice of half a lemon, a piece of butter rolled in +flour, and a little salt. Give it a boil, skim it well, and pour it over +the veal. + + +VEAL CUTLETS. + +Make a seasoning of grated bread, minced ham, chopped parsley, salt, +pepper, and chopped mushrooms if you have them. Mix with it some yolk of +egg. Cut the veal into small thin slices, rub them all over with lard, +and then spread the seasoning over both sides. Wrap up each cutlet +carefully in white paper, oiled or buttered. Bake them slowly for three +quarters of an hour, and serve them up in the papers. + + +BLANQUETTE OR FRICASSEE OF VEAL. + +Take the remains of a cold roast fillet, or loin of veal. Cut it into +small thin pieces. Put them into a stew-pan with a piece of butter +rolled in flour, salt, pepper, a few small onions minced, a bunch of +sweet-herbs chopped, and one or two laurel or peach-leaves. Mix all +together. Pour in a little warm water, and let it boil gently five +minutes or more. When you take it off, stir in some lemon-juice and some +yolk of egg slightly beaten. + + +GODIVEAU. + +Take a large piece of fillet of veal, free from fat or skin. Mince it +small, and then pound it in a mortar till it is a smooth paste. +Afterwards rub it through a cullender or sieve. + +Soak some slices of bread in warm milk, and rub the bread also through a +sieve. There must be an equal quantity of bread and veal. Take the same +proportion of butter, and beat it in a mortar with pepper, salt, nutmeg, +and chopped parsley to your taste. Then put all together. Beat two or +three eggs till very light, and add them gradually to the mixture. Make +it into round balls or into long rolls, and fry them in butter. Or you +may put it into a pie (without a lid) and bake it. + +Godiveau is a very fine stuffing for poultry or wild fowl. + + +CALVES' LIVER BAKED. + +Lard the liver with bacon, and let it lie three or four hours in a +covered tureen with a seasoning of parsley, shalots, laurel and thyme +chopped small, a little pepper and salt, and two table-spoonfuls of +sweet oil. Turn it several times. Then wrap it up in thin slices of +bacon or cold ham, and bake or roast it about an hour and a quarter. Add +to the gravy the yolk of an egg, and some minced onions and chopped +sweet-herbs. + + +CALVES' LIVER FRIED. + +Cut the liver into thin slices, and put them into a frying-pan with a +piece of butter rolled in flour, some minced onions and a glass of white +wine, salt, pepper, and a little mace. Let it fry about ten minutes. + + +VEAL KIDNEYS. + +Cut the kidneys into thin slices; having first soaked them in cold +water, rub them with a little salt and pepper. Then sprinkle them with +flour, and a little parsley and onions minced fine. Fry them in butter, +adding a glass of champagne or other white wine. + +Mutton kidneys may be done in the same manner. + +Another way of dressing kidneys is to split them in half, season them +with salt and pepper, lard them, and broil them. + + +GRILLADES. + +Cut slices from either a fillet of veal, a round of fresh beef, a leg of +mutton, or a leg of pork. Do not let them exceed the thickness of half +an inch. Put them into a stew-pan with a sufficient proportion of oil, +pepper, salt, and a little parsley and onion chopped fine. Stew them in +a very little water till half done. Then prepare some sheets of white +paper rubbed with oil or butter. Take out the slices of meat (covered +with this seasoning) and grate some bread crumbs over them. Fasten up +each slice in a piece of paper, and broil them on a gridiron over a slow +fire. Serve them up in the paper. + + +LIVER CAKE. + +Take a pound and a half of grated bread, and two pounds of liver (either +calves' or pigs') a few onions, a little sage, some mushrooms, and a +laurel leaf, all chopped fine. Mince the liver also, and mix it with the +other ingredients, adding salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Butter a mould or a +very deep dish. Put the mixture into it, and let it bake an hour and a +half in a moderate oven. When done, turn it out. + +It is eaten cold, cut in slices. + + +SIRLOIN OF BEEF. + +Rub your beef all over with salt, and lard the lean part of it with +slips of fat bacon. Cover the meat with sheets of oiled or buttered +paper. Roast it in proportion to its size, between three and four hours. + +Serve it up with its gravy, and have some onion sauce in a boat. + + +STEWED BEEF. + +Take some slices of cold roast beef that has been under-done. Put them +into a stew-pan with a little gravy or broth, or if you have neither, +some warm water. Add a piece of butter rolled in flour, some capers, or +some pickled cucumbers chopped small, a little lemon-juice or vinegar, +and some salt and pepper. Let the beef simmer slowly, but do not allow +it to boil. Have ready some slices of bread (of the same size as the +slices of beef) and fry them in butter. Put some tomata sauce in the +bottom of a dish. Lay on it in a pile a few slices of beef and slices of +fried bread alternately. Pour the gravy over it, and send it to table. + +Any other sort of meat may be done in the same manner. + + +BEEF STEAKS. + +Cut slices of beef from the sirloin. Trim them neatly, and take off the +bone and the skin. To make them tender beat them on both sides with a +wooden beetle or with the end of a rolling-pin. Rub them with salt and +pepper. Warm a sufficient quantity of butter, and when it is soft spread +it over the steaks. Then sprinkle them with onions minced very fine. +Cover them up in a dish, and let them lie an hour or more in the +seasoning. Then broil them over a clear fire. Slice some cold boiled +potatoes, fry them in butter, and lay them round the steaks. + + +BEEF A LA MODE. + +Take a round of fresh beef, and beat it well to make it tender. Rub it +all over with salt and pepper. Lard it on both sides with slips of +bacon. Lay it in a deep pan with some slices of bacon, a calves-foot, a +few onions, a carrot cut in pieces, a bunch of sweet herbs cut small, +one or two laurel leaves, some cloves, and a beaten nutmeg. Pour in a +half-pint of red wine, a half-pint of white wine, and a spoonful of +brandy. Let it stew slowly for at least six hours. Then take it out; +strain the gravy, pour it over the meat, and serve it up. + +A fillet of veal may be done in the same manner. + + +ROASTED HAM. + +Let your ham soak all night in cold water, and then trim it handsomely, +having first taken out the bone by loosening the meat all round it, with +the point of a knife. Tie a broad tape round the ham to keep it in +shape. Then put it into a large pan with some sliced onions, some sprigs +of parsley, two or three laurel leaves, and a bottle of white wine. +Cover it, and let it lie in the seasoning twenty-four hours. Then roast +it, and baste it with the seasoning. A large ham will require four or +five hours to roast. A little before it is done, take off the skin and +sprinkle the ham with grated bread crumbs. + +While the ham is roasting, stew together the bone and the trimmings and +scraps till they come to a jelly, which you must strain through a sieve. +When you take the ham from the spit (having removed the tape that has +been fastened round it) glaze it all over with the jelly, laid on with a +brush or a quill feather. Serve it up with the seasoning or marinade +under it. + +If the ham is to be eaten cold, you may cover it all over the glazing +with cold boiled potatoes grated finely, so that it will look like a +large cake covered with icing. Ornament it with slices of boiled carrot, +beets, &c. scolloped and laid on the potatoes, in handsome forms, so as +to look like red and yellow flowering. Stick a large bunch of double +parsley in the centre. + +A ham boiled in the usual manner may be ornamented in the same way; +first extracting the bone, and making the meat into a circular shape. + +Instead of a mere bunch of double parsley, you may stick in the centre +of the ham a nosegay of flowers, formed of different culinary +vegetables, and cut into proper shape with a sharp pen-knife. All these +vegetables must be raw. The flowers intended to represent red roses must +be made of beets, the white roses of turnips, and the marigolds or other +deep yellow flowers must be cut out of carrots. The pieces of turnips +and beets must first be made with the pen-knife into the form of a ball, +on the surface of which the rose-leaves must be cut. The carrots may be +cut into flat slices, and then notched to look like marigolds or +chrysanthemums. Stick each flower on the end of a small wooden skewer, +which will answer for the stalk, but which must be concealed by thick +bunches of double parsley tied on so as to represent the green leaves. +Tie all the skewers together at the bottom with a pack-thread, and the +whole will have the effect of a handsome nosegay when placed in the +middle of the ham. + +A round of cold a-la-mode beef may be ornamented with a bunch of these +flowers. Let the beef itself be covered all over with parsley, so as to +resemble a green bank. + + +FRIED HAM, WITH TOMATAS. + +Fry some slices of cold boiled ham. Then fry some tomatas, allowing one +tomata to each slice of meat. Lay the tomatas on the ham, shake some +pepper over them, and send them to table. + + +ROASTED TONGUE. + +Having soaked a large smoked tongue all night in cold water, parboil it +in a very little warm water with a slice of bacon, a bunch of sweet +herbs, and an onion or two stuck with cloves. When it is nearly done, +take it out, drain it, and lard it with large slips of bacon on the +upper side, and small pieces on the under side. Then put it on the spit +and roast it half an hour, and serve it up with pungent sauce (Sauce +Piquante.) + + +BAKED TONGUE. + +Take a cold boiled tongue and cut it into slices. Put in the bottom of a +deep dish a little vinegar, with some capers, parsley and shalots minced +fine, and some grated bread, all mixed together. Lay the slices of +tongue upon this, and cover them with some more of the same seasoning. +Then grate some bread all over the top. Moisten the whole by pouring in +a little warm water. Put the dish into a stove moderately heated, or set +it on a slow furnace. Bake it till brown. + + +POTTED TONGUE. + +Boil two smoked tongues. Skin them and cut them into thin slices. Put +the slices (a few at a time) into a mortar and beat them to a paste, +adding gradually a pound of butter. Then prepare an equal quantity of +the lean of stewed veal, and pound that also in the mortar (a little at +a time) with the same proportion of butter. Then make the veal and the +tongue into lumps, and put them alternately into your stone pots, +pressing them together so as to look like red and white marble. Have a +layer of veal at the top. Press the whole down very hard. Fill up the +pots with butter, boiled and skimmed and poured on warm. Tie them up +closely with parchment, and keep them in a cold but dry place. + +When you use it, cut it in slices. + + +LEG OF MUTTON WITH OYSTERS. + +Rub a leg of mutton all over with salt, and put it on the spit to roast +with a clear fire, basting it with its own gravy. When it is nearly +done, take it up and with a sharp knife make incisions all over it, and +stuff an oyster into every hole. Then put it again before the fire, to +finish roasting. + +Before you serve it up, skim the gravy well, and give it a boil with a +glass of red wine. + + +CUTLETS A LA MAINTENON. + +Cut a neck of mutton into chops, leaving a bone to each, but scraping +the end of the bone quite clean. Mix together some grated bread, and +some marjoram and onion chopped fine. Season it with pepper, salt, and +nutmeg. Having melted some butter, dip each chop into it, and then cover +them on both sides with the seasoning. Butter some half-sheets of white +paper, and put the cutlets into them, leaving the end of each bone to +stick out of the paper like a handle. Lay them on a gridiron, and broil +them for about twenty minutes on clear lively coals. Serve them up in +the papers. + +Make a sauce of four shalots or little onions chopped fine, some gravy, +a little pepper and salt, and a spoonful of red wine. Boil this sauce +for a minute, and send it up in a boat. + + +PORK CUTLETS. + +Mince together some onions, parsley, and a laurel leaf. Season it with +pepper, salt, and cloves. Cut your pork into thin steaks, and lay them +in this seasoning for five or six hours. Then broil or fry them with +the seasoning on them, and serve them up with sauce Robert, or with +tomata sauce. + + +LARDED RABBIT. + +Lard a fine large rabbit, and put it into a stew-pan with a slice or two +of cold ham, a bunch of sweet-herbs, a table-spoonful of sweet oil, and +a gill of white wine. Stew it slowly, and, when it is quite done, strain +the gravy and pour it over the rabbit. + + +RABBITS IN PAPERS. + +Take two young rabbits; cut off the limbs and put them aside. Cut the +flesh from the body, and chop it very fine, mixing it with shalots, +parsley, and mushrooms chopped also, and, if you choose, a clove of +garlic. Season it with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and moisten it with +sweet oil. Lay the legs of the rabbit in this mixture, for three or four +hours. Then take out separately each leg covered with the seasoning, lay +on it a thin slice of bacon or cold ham, and wrap it in a sheet of white +paper well buttered. Broil the limbs slowly on the gridiron, and serve +them up hot in the papers. + +Fowls may be done in the same manner. Ducks also. + + +PILAU. + +Take half a dozen slices of the lean of a leg of mutton, or of fillet of +veal. Put them into a stew-pan with six large onions, a carrot cut in +pieces, and some parsley, with pepper, salt, and nutmeg to your taste. +Add a tea-spoonful of saffron, a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a +little boiling water. Let it stew for an hour, and skim it well. + +Have ready a pound of rice boiled soft and drained. Mix with it a large +piece of butter. Put some rice in the bottom of a deep dish, and lay on +it first the seasoning, and then the slices of meat in a pile. Keep the +remainder of the rice over it, and set it on the stove or in the oven +for ten minutes. + + +VEAL SWEETBREADS. + +Take three sweet-breads, and soak them three or four hours in milk. Then +wipe them dry, and lard them. Make a seasoning of sweet-herbs and +mushrooms chopped fine, a quarter of a pound of cold ham or bacon +scraped or minced, salt, pepper, and nutmeg to your taste, and a +table-spoonful of sweet-oil. Mix the seasoning very well together, and +put it into a stew-pan with the sweet-breads, a piece of butter rolled +in flour, a little water or broth, and the same quantity of wine. Stew +it about ten minutes. Then take out the sweet-breads, lay them in a deep +dish, pour the seasoning over them, and let them get cold. Next prepare +some cases of white paper, oil them, and cover the inside with grated +bread. Put a sweet-bread into each paper-case, with some of the +seasoning at bottom and top. Close the cases, put them in an oven, and +bake them long enough to color the sweet-breads. Serve them up in the +papers. + +Set the gravy over the fire, and when it simmers take it off, and stir +in the yolk of an egg slightly beaten. Keep it covered for a few +minutes, and then serve it up in a boat. + + + + +PART THE THIRD. + + + + +GAME AND POULTRY. + + +A SALMI. + +Cut off the flesh from the bodies of a pair of cold pheasants, +partridges or wild-ducks, or an equal quantity of small birds. Beat it +in a mortar, moistening it frequently with a little broth or gravy. Then +pass the whole through a cullender or sieve. Put it into a stew-pan with +a piece of butter about the size of a walnut, rolled in flour; half a +pint of port wine or claret; two whole onions, and a bunch of +sweet-herbs. Let it boil half an hour, and then stir in two +table-spoonfuls of sweet oil, and the juice of a lemon. + +In another pan stew the legs and wings of the birds, but do not let them +boil. Stew them in butter rolled in flour, seasoned with pepper and +salt. Cut some slices of bread into triangular pieces, and fry them in +butter. Lay them in the bottom of a dish, put the legs and wings upon +them, and then the other part of the stew. Garnish the edge with slices +of lemon, handsomely notched with a knife. + +If the Salmi is made of partridges, use oranges instead of lemons for +the juice and garnishing. + + +COLD SALMI. + +This is prepared on the table. Take the liver of a roast goose, turkey, +or ducks. Put some of the gravy on a plate, cut up the liver in it, and +bruise it with the back of a spoon or a silver fork. Add three +tea-spoonfuls of olive oil, the juice of a lemon, and cayenne pepper and +salt to your taste. Mix it well. When the bird is cut up, eat with it +some of this sauce. + + +RAGOOED LIVERS. + +Take the livers of half a dozen fowls or other poultry, a dozen +mushrooms, a bunch of sweet herbs, a clove of garlic or a small onion, a +table-spoonful of butter rolled in flour. Add a glass of white wine, and +sufficient warm water to keep the ingredients moist. Season it with salt +and pepper. Stew all together, and skim it well. Before you send it to +table, stir in the yolks of two or three beaten eggs, and two spoonfuls +of cream. + + +A FINE HASH. + +Take any cold game or poultry that you have. You may mix several kinds +together. Some sausages, of the best sort, will be an improvement. Chop +all together, and mix with it bread crumbs, chopped onions and parsley, +and the yolks of two or three hard-boiled eggs. Put it into a sauce-pan +with a proportionate piece of butter rolled in flour. Moisten it with +broth, gravy, or warm water, and let it stew gently for half an hour. + +Cold veal or fresh pork may be hashed in the same manner. + + +MARINADE OF FOWLS. + +Take a pair of fowls, skin and cut them up. Wash them in lukewarm water. +Drain them, and put them into a stew-pan with some butter. Season them +to your taste with salt, pepper, and lemon-juice. Add parsley, onions, +and a laurel leaf. Moisten them with warm water, and let them stew +slowly on hot coals for two or three hours. Clear them from the +seasoning and drain them. Then lay them in a dish, and grate bread +crumbs over them. Whip some white of egg to a stiff froth, and cover +with it all the pieces of fowl. + + +FRICASSEE OF FOWLS. + +Skin and cut up your fowls, and soak them two hours in cold water, to +make them white. Drain them. Put into a stew-pan a large piece of +butter, and a table-spoonful of flour. Stir them together till the +butter has melted. Add salt, pepper, a grated nutmeg, and a bunch of +sweet-herbs. Pour in half a pint of cream. Put in the fowls, and let +them stew three quarters of an hour. Before you send them to table, stir +in the yolks of three beaten eggs, and the juice of half a lemon. + +The Fricassee will be greatly improved by some mushrooms stewed with the +fowl. + +To keep the fricassee white, cover it (while stewing) with a sheet of +buttered paper laid over the fowls. The lid of the stew-pan must be kept +on tightly. + + +FOWLS WITH TARRAGON. + +Pick two handfuls of tarragon (the leaves from the stalks) and chop half +of it fine with the livers of the fowls. Mix it with butter, salt, and +whole pepper. Stuff your fowls with it. Lard them and wrap them in +papers buttered or oiled. + +Melt some butter rolled in flour, and stir into it the rest of the +tarragon. Moisten it with a little water or milk. Stir in the yolks of +two beaten eggs, and the juice of half a lemon. Serve it up as gravy. +Strew over the fowls some sprigs of fresh tarragon. + + +A STEWED FOWL. + +Take a large fowl, and put it into a stew-pan with two ounces or more of +butter, some thin slices of cold ham, a little parsley and onion chopped +fine, and some nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Then pour in half a tumbler of +white wine. You may add, if you choose, six table-spoonfuls of boiled +rice, which you must afterwards serve up under the fowl and ham. Let it +stew slowly for two hours, with just sufficient water to keep it from +burning. + +Before you send it to table, go all over the fowl with a feather or +brush dipped in yolk of egg. You may add to the stew a dozen small +onions, to be laid round the fowl with the slices of ham. + + +CHICKENS IN JELLY. + +Cold chickens, pigeons, and game, look very handsome in jelly. To make +this jelly, take four calves-feet (with the skin on) and boil them to a +strong jelly with an ounce of isinglass and three quarts of water, +carefully skimming off the fat. The calves-feet must be boiled the day +before the jelly is wanted, and when it is cold scrape off all the +sediment that adheres to it. Then boil the jelly with the addition of +the whites and shells of six eggs, the juice of three lemons, three or +four sticks of cinnamon, half a pound of loaf-sugar, and a pint of +Malaga or other sweet wine. Let it boil hard for five or six minutes, +but do not stir it. Strain it several times through a flannel bag into a +deep white pan, but do not on any consideration squeeze or press the +bag, as that will entirely spoil the transparency of the jelly. After +it has done dripping through the bag, take out all the ingredients (as +they are now of no farther use) and wash the bag clean. Then pour the +jelly into it again, and let it strain. Repeat this till it is perfectly +clear and bright; washing the bag every time. Sometimes (but not often) +it will be clear at the first straining. + +Put a little of the jelly into the bottom of a deep dish or bowl, and +set it in a cold place. When it has congealed and is firm, lay your +chickens on it with the breasts downwards. Having kept the remainder of +the jelly warm, to prevent its congealing too soon, pour it over the +fowls. Let it stand all night or till it is perfectly firm. Then set +your dish or bowl in warm water for a moment, to loosen the jelly. Lay +over it the dish in which you intend to serve it up, and turn it out +carefully. If you fear that you will not be able to turn it out without +breaking the jelly, you may prepare it at the beginning in a deep china +dish fit to send to table. + +If you put too much water to the calves-feet, the jelly will never be +firm, till it is boiled over again with more isinglass. The generality +of cooks are in the habit of putting too much water to every thing, and +should be cautioned accordingly. + + +PULLED CHICKENS. + +Boil a pair of fowls till they are about half done. Then skin them, and +pull the flesh from the bones in pieces about a finger in breadth and +half a finger in length. Take a few table-spoonfuls of the liquor they +were boiled in, and mix it with half a pint of boiling cream. Put it +into a stew-pan with a piece of butter rolled in flour; pepper, salt, +and nutmeg; a little chopped parsley; and a table-spoonful of white +wine. Put in the pieces of chicken, and stew them slowly till quite +done. + + +STEWED TURKEY, OR TURKEY EN DAUBE. + +Take a large turkey; lard it and stuff it as for roasting. Then cover it +all over with a seasoning made of salt, pepper, nutmeg, and sweet-herbs, +parsley and onions, minced fine. Put it into a stew-pan, with some +slices of bacon, one or two calves-feet, some onions and carrots, one or +two laurel leaves, a few cloves, a beaten nutmeg, salt, pepper, and, if +you choose, a clove of garlic. Pour in a pint of water, and a pint of +white wine or brandy. + +Put on the cover of the stew-pan, and lay round its edge on the outside +a wet cloth, which must be kept wet. Stew it slowly for five or six +hours or more, and turn the turkey when about half done. When it is +finished, withdraw the fire, and skim and strain the gravy. Serve up the +turkey with the gravy under it. + +A goose done this way is very fine. + +A round of beef may be stewed in the same manner. It will be the better +for lying all night in the seasoning, and it should be put in to stew +early in the morning. + + +ROASTED TURKEY. + +Rub the turkey all over with salt. Then lard it. You may stuff it with +sausage-meat; or with chestnuts previously boiled, peeled, and mashed. +Or, you may make a force-meat stuffing of the liver, heart, and gizzard, +chopped fine, and mixed with chopped parsley, onions, sweet-herbs, +grated bread, butter, lemon-juice, grated lemon-peel, and the yolk of +one or two eggs. + +A turkey of moderate size will require at least two hours to roast. +Thicken the gravy with yolk of egg stirred in just before you send it to +table. + +A cold roast turkey should be larded and served up with large spoonfuls +of stiff currant jelly dropped all over it. + +You may roast a goose in the same manner. + + +POTTED GOOSE. + +Take several fine geese; rub them with salt, and put into each a handful +of sage leaves. Roast them about an hour. Do not baste them, but save +all the fat in the dripping-pan, emptying it as it is filled. When you +have taken the geese from the spit, cut off the legs and wings, and cut +the flesh from the breast in slices. Set them away to get cold. + +Put the fat that has dripped from the geese into a kettle, with about +half as much lard as there is of the dripping. Boil it ten minutes. Have +ready a tall stone jar, or more than one if necessary. Lay two legs of +the geese side by side in the bottom, and sprinkle them with salt and +pepper; placing, if you choose, a laurel leaf on each. Then put in two +wings, and season them also. Next a layer of the slices cut from the +breast, seasoned in the same manner. When the pots are almost full of +the goose, fill them up to the top with the boiling fat, and set them +away till the next day to get cold. The upper layer must be covered at +least an inch thick with the fat. + +Tie up the pots with covers of parchment wet with brandy, and keep them +in a cold but not in a damp place. + +In France great numbers of geese are fattened for this purpose. + + +DUCKS WITH TURNIPS. + +Stew some turnips with butter, salt, and a little sugar. When soft, take +them out and drain them. Cut up your ducks, season them, and put them +into the same pan that has held the turnips. Stew the ducks with a piece +of butter rolled in flour, a little water, and a bunch of sweet-herbs +tied up. When the ducks are nearly done, put the turnips in again, and +let all stew slowly together for ten minutes, skimming it well. Withdraw +the sweet-herbs before you send the dish to table. + + +A DUCK WITH OLIVES. + +Having larded your duck, stew it whole, with butter, pepper, salt, and a +little water. Take half a pint of olives, cut them in half and take out +the seeds or stones. When the duck is nearly done, throw in the olives, +and let all stew together about five minutes or more. Serve up the duck +with the olives round it. + + +A DUCK WITH PEAS. + +Stew the duck whole, with some lard and a little salt, till about half +done. Then take it out and drain it. Put into the stew-pan a large piece +of butter rolled in flour. When it has melted, pour in a quart of +shelled green peas, and add a bunch of mint, or other sweet herbs, and +some pepper and salt. Then put in the duck, adding a little warm water. +Let it stew slowly till quite done, skimming it well. + + +TURKEY PUDDINGS. + +Mince thirty small onions and mix them with an equal quantity of bread +crumbs that have been soaked in milk. Chop an equal quantity of the +flesh of cold turkey. Mix all together, and pound it very well in a +mortar. Pass it through a cullender, and then return it to the mortar +and beat it again, adding gradually the yolks of six hard eggs, and a +pint of cream or half a pound of butter. Season it to your taste with +salt, mace and nutmeg. + +Have ready some skins, nicely cleaned as for sausages. Fill the skins +with the mixture, and tie up the ends. Then simmer your puddings, but do +not let them boil. Take them out, drain them, and put them away to get +cold. + +When you wish to cook them for immediate use prick them with a fork, +wrap them in buttered paper, and broil them on a gridiron. + +Similar puddings may be made of cold fowls. + + +BAKED PIGEONS, OR PIGEONS A LA CRAPAUDINE. + +Split the pigeons down the back. Take out the livers, which you must +mince with bacon and sweet-herbs, adding to them the livers of fowls or +other birds, if you have them, and bacon in proportion. Or you may +substitute sausage-meat. Add bread-crumbs soaked in milk, and the yolks +of two eggs or more, with salt, pepper, mace and nutmeg to your taste. +Mix all together, and stuff your pigeons with it, and then glaze them +all over with beaten white of egg. Place them in a buttered pan, and set +them in the oven. Bake them half an hour. Before you serve them up, +squeeze some lemon-juice into the gravy. + + +BROILED PIGEONS. + +Split your pigeons and flatten them. Make a seasoning of sweet oil, +salt, pepper, chopped shalots, and chopped parsley. Rub this seasoning +all over the pigeons. Then cover them with grated bread crumbs. Wrap +each in a sheet of white paper, and broil them on a slow fire. Serve +them up with a sauce made of minced onions, butter rolled in flour, +lemon-juice or vinegar, and salt and pepper. + + +PIGEONS PEAR-FASHION. (PIGEONS AU POIRE.) + +First, bone your pigeons. To do this, take a sharp knife, and slipping +it under the flesh carefully loosen it from the bone, and do not tear +the skin. Begin at the upper part of the bird, just above the wings, +scrape gradually down, and finish at the legs. Then take hold of the +neck, and draw out the whole skeleton at once. Make a good force-meat or +stuffing (as directed for baked pigeons), and fill them with it, making +them each into the shape of a large pear. Fasten them with skewers. +Glaze them all over with yolk of egg, and then roll them in grated +bread-crumbs. Stick in the top of each, the lower end of the leg, to +look like the stem of a pear. Lay them in a buttered dish (but not so +close as to touch each other) and bake them. Make a good gravy, +thickened with the yolk of an egg, and some butter rolled in flour. + + +PIGEONS WITH PEAS. + +Take two or four pigeons (according to their size), and truss them with +the feet inwards. Put them into a stew-pan with a piece of butter +rolled in flour, and two or three slices of cold ham, or bacon, and a +little water. Let them stew gently till brown. Then add a quart of green +peas, and a bunch of mint, with another piece of butter, and a little +warm water or milk. Let them stew slowly, and when they are quite done, +stir in some more butter. Serve up the pigeons with the peas under them. + + +ROASTED PARTRIDGES. + +Lard the partridges, and put in the inside of each a laurel leaf, and an +orange cut in pieces. If you omit the laurel leaf, do not peel the +orange, but put in the pieces with the rind on them. These must be taken +out before the partridges are sent to table. Be careful not to roast +them too much. + + +PARTRIDGES WITH CABBAGE. + +Having trussed the partridges, put them into a stew-pan with a large +piece of butter rolled in flour; a quarter of a pound of bacon or ham +cut into dice; a bunch of sweet-herbs, and a little warm water. Put into +another stew-pan a fine Savoy cabbage, with a pint of the dripping of +beef or pork. Let it stew slowly till nearly done. Then take out the +cabbage and drain it, and put it into the stew-pan to cook with the +partridges for half an hour. Lay the cabbage under the partridges when +you send them to table. + + +A PARTRIDGE PIE. + +Take three pair of large partridges and truss them as you do fowls. Rub +them all over with a mixture of pepper, salt, powdered mace and +powdered nutmeg. Take a pound of fat bacon and two pounds of lean veal, +and cut them into small pieces. Put them into a stew-pan with a quarter +of a pound of butter. Add a bunch of sweet-herbs, and a few shalots or +small onions, all minced fine. Stew them till the meat seems to be quite +done, and then put it into a cullender to drain. Afterwards put the meat +into a mortar, season it with pepper, salt, nutmeg and mace, and pound +it to a smooth paste; moistening it at times with some of the liquor in +which it was stewed. + +Prepare a rich paste, and spread a sheet of it over the bottom of a +large and deep buttered dish. Put in the partridges, side by side, pour +in a little water, add a piece of butter, and cover them with the +pounded meat. Lay on the top a few slices of cold ham. Roll out a thick +piece of paste for the lid, and cover the pie with it; cutting the edges +into square notches, and folding over the half of each notch. Ornament +the lid with leaves and flowers made of paste. Bake it three hours, and +see that the oven is not so hot as to scorch it. When done, glaze it all +over with white of egg. + +This pie will be greatly improved by the addition of some truffles. If +you cannot procure truffles, mushrooms cut in pieces may be substituted. + + +ROASTED PHEASANTS. + +Make a stuffing of fresh raw oysters, chopped, and seasoned with pepper, +salt, nutmeg, and mace. Mix with it some sweet oil, some yolk of egg, +and fill the pheasants with this stuffing. Cover the pheasants with thin +slices of bacon or cold ham; wrap them in buttered sheets of white +paper, and roast them. Serve them up with oyster sauce. + + +BROILED QUAILS. + +Split the quails down the back, and flatten them. Put them into a +stew-pan with sweet-oil, salt, pepper, and a leaf or two of laurel. +Cover them with thin slices of bacon or ham, and let them stew slowly on +hot coals. When nearly done, take them out, strew over them grated +breadcrumbs, and broil them on a gridiron. + +Put into the stew-pan a little warm water, and scrape down whatever +adheres to the sides; skim it, and let it come to a boil. Pour this +gravy into the dish in which you serve up the quails, and lay the bacon +round it. + + +ROASTED PLOVERS. + +Scald and pick your plovers, but do not draw them. Lard them, and lay +slices of toasted bread in the dripping-pan to receive what falls from +the birds while roasting. Serve them up with the toast under them. + +Woodcocks and snipes are roasted in the same manner. + + + + +PART THE FOURTH + + + + +FISH. + + +STEWED SALMON. + +Pour a half-pint of white wine into a stew-pan, with some sliced +carrots, onions, and mushrooms; pepper, salt, and mace; and a bunch of +chopped sweet-herbs. Lay in your piece of fresh salmon, and pour over it +some more wine. Stew it slowly for an hour or more. When done, serve it +up with the sauce that is under it, and also with some sauce Mayonnaise +in a boat. + +The sauce Mayonnaise is made as follows:-- Put into a small tureen the +yolks of two beaten eggs, a little salt and Cayenne pepper, and a very +little vinegar. Stir and mix it well; then add (a drop at a time) two +table-spoonfuls of sweet-oil, stirring all the while. When it is well +mixed, stir in gradually some more vinegar. To stir and mix it +thoroughly will require a quarter of an hour. It will then be very +delicate. + +You may color it green by adding a little juice of spinach, or some +chopped parsley or tarragon at the first, when you put in the eggs. + + +ROASTED SALMON. + +A large piece of fresh salmon is very fine roasted on a spit, first +rubbing it with salt, and then basting it all the time with sweet-oil or +butter. + +For roasted salmon, make a sauce as follows:--Put into a sauce-pan a +little parsley, a shalot or small onion, a few mushrooms, and a piece of +butter rolled in flour, pepper, salt, and a gill or more of white wine. +Let these ingredients boil for half an hour; then strain them through a +sieve, and mix with the sauce a table-spoonful of olive-oil. + + +BROILED SALMON. + +Cut several slices of fresh salmon; soak them an hour in a mixture of +sweet-oil, chopped parsley, and shalots minced fine, with salt and +pepper. Then take each slice with the seasoning on it, and wrap it in +buttered paper. Broil the slices on a gridiron. When thoroughly done, +take off the paper, and serve up the salmon with melted butter and +capers. + +Any other large fish may be dressed like salmon. + + +SALT COD-FISH. + +Let it soak twenty-four hours in cold water, which must be changed +several times, and every time you change it pour in a wine-glass of +vinegar, which will greatly improve the fish. Boil the cod till +thoroughly done; then cut the flesh into very small slips; mix it with +parsley, butter, vinegar, Cayenne pepper, nutmeg, and mace; add to the +mixture some boiled onions, mashed potatoes, and the yolks of two or +three beaten eggs. Put the whole mixture into a deep dish, and make it +up into the form of a thick round cake. Go all over it with a bunch of +feathers, or a small brush, dipped in sweet-oil; and then grate bread +crumbs all over it. Set it in the oven till brown. Serve it up, +surrounded with triangular or three-cornered slices of toast, dipped in +melted butter. + +Halibut may be dressed in the same manner, putting salt in the water +when you boil it, and also in the seasoning. + +Fresh cod may be cooked in the same way. + + +BROILED FRESH MACKEREL. + +Split your mackerel down the back; season it with pepper and salt; cover +it all over with oil or butter, and let it lay for half an hour or more; +then broil it, pouring on it whatever of the seasoning may be left in +the dish. + +Serve it up, with sauce in a boat. Let the sauce be of melted butter, +with parsley, and a little lemon-juice, or vinegar. + +Or you may broil the mackerel whole, having first seasoned it as above, +and wrapped it in oiled paper. + + +BROILED FRESH SHAD. + +Having split the shad in half, cover it all over with a seasoning of +oil, pepper, salt, chopped onions, parsley, and laurel-leaf. Let it lie +an hour or two in the seasoning. Then broil it, covered with the +seasoning, and adding a piece of butter. + +Or you may cook the shad whole. Make a stuffing of the above +ingredients, with the addition of some grated bread; put the stuffing +into the shad, and bake it, first pouring over it a glass of white wine. + +Any large fresh fish may be baked in the same manner. + + +HASHED FISH. + +Take any sort of cold fish, bone it, and then chop it with the remains +of a cold omelet, and some mushrooms if you have them. Mix with it some +chopped parsley, a little butter, a slice of bread soaked in milk, and +the yolks of two or three hard-boiled eggs chopped fine. Mix all +together, and season with pepper and salt. Stew it gently with a little +water for half an hour. + + +LOBSTER PIE. + +Having boiled your lobster, take out the meat from the shell, season it +with salt, mustard, Cayenne pepper, and vinegar, and beat it well in a +mortar. Then stir in a quarter of a pound of butter, the yolks of two +beaten eggs, and two ounces or more of grated bread crumbs. Make some +puff-paste, put in the mixture, and cover it with a lid of paste +ornamented with leaves or flowers of the same. Bake it slowly. + + +OYSTER LOAVES. + +Have ready some small loaves or rolls of bread. Cut a round piece out of +the top of each, and scoop out the crumb or soft part. Take the liquor +of your oysters, put into it the crumbs, with a little chopped celery, +and a large piece of butter. As soon as it boils, pour the liquor over +the oysters, and this will cook them sufficiently. Fill your loaves with +the oysters, putting into each a tea-spoonful of cream. Lay on again the +piece of crust that was cut out of the top of each loaf or roll, and set +them in the oven for a few minutes. + + + + +PART THE FIFTH. + + + + +VEGETABLES. + + +STEWED LETTUCE. + +Wash a fine lettuce, and tie it up with a string passed several times +round it, to keep the leaves together. Put it in boiling water, with a +little salt. When the lettuce has boiled, take it out and press it to +squeeze out the water, but be careful not to break it. + +Having mixed, in a stew-pan, a large spoonful of butter with a spoonful +of flour, add half a pint of cream or rich milk; put in the lettuce, +with a very little salt, half a nutmeg grated, and two lumps of sugar. +Let it boil ten minutes. Take out the lettuce, stir the yolks of two +beaten eggs into the sauce, and serve all up together. + + +STEWED SPINACH. + +Take young spinach, and throw it into boiling water with some salt. When +it has boiled, take it out, drain it, and lay it in cold water for a +quarter of an hour. Then drain it and squeeze it. Cut it small, and put +it into a stew-pan, with a large piece of butter. After it has stewed +slowly for a quarter of an hour, add a spoonful of flour, with a little +salt, sugar, and nutmeg. Moisten it with cream or milk, and let it +simmer again over a slow fire for another quarter of an hour. Then serve +it up, and lay on it slices of toasted bread dipped in melted butter. + + +STEWED CUCUMBERS. + +Lay your cucumbers in cold water for half an hour; then pare them, and +cut them into slips about as long as your little finger; take out the +seeds; then boil the cucumbers a few minutes, with a little salt. Take +them out, and drain them well. + +Put into a stew-pan some butter rolled in flour, and a little cream. +Stew your cucumbers in it for ten minutes. When you take them off, stir +in the yolks of two beaten eggs; and if you choose, a tea-spoonful of +vinegar. + + +STEWED BEETS. + +Boil some beets. Then peel and cut them into slices. Stew them for a +quarter of an hour with a piece of butter rolled in flour, some onion +and parsley chopped fine, a little vinegar, salt and pepper, and a clove +of garlic. + + +STEWED CARROTS. + +Scrape and wash your carrots. Scald them in boiling water; then drain +them, and cut them into long slips. Stew them in milk or cream, with a +little salt, pepper, and chopped parsley. When done, take them out, stir +into the sauce the yolks of one or two eggs, and a lump or two of +loaf-sugar, and pour it over the carrots. + + +STEWED CABBAGE. + +Having washed your cabbage, cut it in four, and throw it into boiling +water with some salt. When it has boiled till quite tender, take it up, +squeeze out the water, and put the cabbage to drain. Then lay it in a +stew-pan with butter, salt, pepper, nutmeg, a spoonful of flour, and +half a pint of cream. Stew it a quarter of an hour, and pour the sauce +over it when you send it to table. + +Cauliflowers may be stewed in the same manner. + + +STEWED PEAS. + +Take two quarts of green peas; put them into a stew-pan with a quarter +of a pound of butter, a bunch of parsley, and the heart of a fine +lettuce cut in pieces, a bunch of mint, three or four lumps of sugar, +some salt and pepper, and a very little water. Stir all together, set it +on coals and let it stew gently for an hour or an hour and a half. +Having taken out the parsley, add a piece of butter rolled in flour; and +stir in the yolks of two eggs just before you send it to table. + +You may, if you choose, put in the lettuce without cutting it in pieces; +tie it up with the bunch of parsley and two onions, and withdraw the +whole before you dish the peas. Serve up the lettuce in another dish. + + +STEWED BEANS. + +Put into a stew-pan some parsley and some chives or little onions +chopped fine, some mushrooms (if you have them) chopped also, and a +large piece of butter rolled in flour. Add a glass of white wine and a +little water. Stir all together, and then put in as many beans as will +fill a quart measure when strung and cut small; having first soaked them +a quarter of an hour in cold water. Let them stew gently on hot coals +till quite tender. Just before you serve them up, stir in the yolks of +two eggs. You may substitute for the wine a tumbler of cream, but it +must be stirred in at the last. + + +STEWED ONIONS. + +Boil some small onions with salt, and then drain them. Lay them in a +stew-pan with a piece of butter, and sprinkle them with flour, pepper +and salt. Pour on them some cream, and then turn every onion with a +spoon. Stew them ten minutes, and serve them up. + + +ONIONS STEWED IN WINE. + +Boil twenty or thirty onions a quarter of an hour with a bunch of sweet +herbs, some salt, a few cloves, and a laurel leaf. Then take out the +onions, and put them into a stew-pan with some salt, a piece of butter +rolled in flour, and a pint of red wine. Stew them another quarter of an +hour, and serve them up garnished with pieces of toast dipped in the +sauce. + + +STEWED MUSHROOMS. + +Having peeled and washed your mushrooms, drain them, and stew them with +butter, pepper, salt, and a little chopped parsley, adding a little +flour and warm water. When they are done, stir into the sauce the yolks +of two or three eggs, and some cream. Toast and butter a slice of bread. +Lay it on the dish under the mushrooms, and pour the sauce over them. + +Put in a small onion with the mushrooms, that you may know by its +turning almost black, whether there is a poisonous one among them. If +the onion turns black, throw away all the mushrooms. + + +STEWED POTATOES. + +Boil eight or nine large potatoes with a little salt, and then peel and +cut them in slices. Put into a stew-pan a large piece of butter, a +spoonful of flour, some salt, and half a grated nutmeg. Add a half-pint +of cream, and mix all together. When this sauce boils, put in your +sliced potatoes, and let them stew a quarter of an hour. + + +STEWED POTATOES WITH TURNIPS. + +Pare and boil an equal quantity of turnips and potatoes. When done, +drain and mash them. Melt some butter in a stew-pan, and add to it a +little mustard. Stew the mixed potatoes and turnips in it, with a small +quantity of hot milk, for about ten minutes. + + +ASPARAGUS WITH CREAM. + +Wash and boil four or five bundles of asparagus. Have ready a pint of +cream, or a pint of milk, with the yolks of six eggs stirred into it. +Take four large rolls of bread, and cut a round piece out of the top of +each. Scoop out the crumb from the inside of the rolls, and put it into +the cream with the heads of the asparagus, of which you must save out a +sufficient number (with a small piece of the stalk left on each) to +stick the rolls with. Make holes in the top-pieces of the rolls. + +Fry the rolls in butter. Put the most of the asparagus heads into the +cream mixed with the crumb of the rolls, and simmer it awhile over a +slow fire. When the rolls are fried, fill their cavities with the +mixture. Stick the tops with the remainder of the asparagus, and lay +them on the rolls. + +Asparagus may be simply boiled with salt, and served up on toasted bread +dipped in oil, and eaten with oil sauce. + + +POTATOES STEWED WHOLE. + +Boil two dozen small new potatoes, with some salt. Put into a stew-pan a +piece of butter rolled in flour, half the peel of a lemon grated, half a +nutmeg grated, some salt, two or three lumps of sugar, and three +tea-spoonfuls of sweet oil. Lay the potatoes in this mixture, squeeze +over them the juice of a lemon, and let them stew gently about ten +minutes. + + +FRIED POTATOES. + +Make a batter with the yolks of three eggs, a little salt, a +table-spoonful of oil, a table-spoonful of brandy, and sufficient flour +or grated bread to thicken it. Have ready some large cold potatoes cut +in slices. Dip each slice in the batter, and fry them in butter. + + +FRIED CAULIFLOWER. + +Wash a fine large cauliflower, and cut it into quarters. Having boiled +some water with salt, throw the cauliflower into it, and boil it till +you can nip it easily with your fingers. Take it out and drain it. Then +put it into a pan with salt, pepper and vinegar, and let it lie half an +hour, turning it frequently. + +Make the following batter, which must be prepared half an hour or more +before it is wanted, that it may have time to rise. Take three +table-spoonfuls of flour, three beaten eggs, a table-spoonful of butter +melted in a little warm water, a spoonful of sweet oil, and a spoonful +of brandy. Stir all together; and if you find it too thin, add a little +more flour; cover it, and let it set half an hour. Then beat to a stiff +froth the whites of the eggs, and stir them hard into the batter. Dip +your quarters of cauliflower into this mixture, and fry them of a fine +light brown. + +When the cauliflower is done, let it remain in the pan a quarter of an +hour before you send it to table. Lay fried parsley round it. + +Broccoli may be fried in the same manner. + + +FRIED CELERY. + +Take ten or twelve fine stalks of celery. Cut them into pieces about six +inches long, and lay them an hour in salt and water. Drain them, spread +them on a dish, and sprinkle them with powdered sugar. Make a batter of +eggs, milk, and grated bread; allowing four eggs to a pint of milk. Dip +each piece of celery into the batter, and fry them in butter. + + +BROILED MUSHROOMS.[71-*] + +Peel, wash, and drain your mushrooms, and then cut them in pieces. Make +a square case of white paper, and butter it well. Fill it with the +mushrooms mixed with butter, salt, and pepper. Broil them on the +gridiron over a clear fire, and serve them up in the paper. + +If you choose, you may mix with the mushrooms some chopped onion and +sweet-herbs. + + [71-*] In gathering mushrooms, take only those that are of a pale + pink color underneath, and a dull white or pearl color on the top. + Those that are perfectly white above, or whose under side is white, + yellow, or any color but pale pink, are unfit to eat, and poisonous. + + After being gathered awhile, the pink tinge changes to brown, but it + always appears on the good ones while in the ground. + + +STUFFED CABBAGE. (CHOUX FARCIS.) + +Take a large cabbage, with a hard full head; put it into boiling water +with some salt, and let it boil from five to ten minutes. Then take it +out and drain it. Cut off the stalk close to the bottom, so that the +cabbage may stand upright on the dish, and then carefully take out the +inside leaves or heart; leaving the outside leaves whole. + +Chop fine what you have taken out of the inside, and chop also some cold +ham and veal, or cold chicken. Likewise four eggs boiled hard. Mix +together the chopped eggs, the ham and veal, the cabbage heart, and some +grated bread, adding salt and pepper. Fill the cabbage with this +stuffing, and tie tape round it to keep the outside leaves together. +Then put it into a deep stew-pan, with a quarter of a pound of butter +rolled in flour, and an onion stuck full of cloves. Let it simmer over a +slow fire for two hours or more. + +When it is done, take off the tape, set the cabbage upright in a dish, +and pour melted butter over it. + +Lettuce may be done in the same manner. + + +STUFFED POTATOES. + +Take eight very large potatoes, wash and pare them. Make a small slit or +incision in each of them, and scoop out carefully with a knife as much +of the inside as will leave all round a shell about the thickness of two +cents. Then make a force-meat of the substance you have taken out of the +inside, mixing it with two minced onions, a small piece of minced cold +ham or pork, about two ounces of butter, and a little parsley; adding +the yolks of two or three beaten eggs. Mix the stuffing thoroughly, by +pounding it in a mortar. + +Butter the inside of the potatoes, and fill them with this mixture. Then +having buttered a large dish, lay your potatoes in it separately. Bake +them half an hour, or till they are of a fine brown. + +When you mash potatoes, moisten them with milk or cream, adding a little +salt. Heap them up on the dish in the form of a pyramid. Smooth the +sides of the pyramid with the back of a spoon, and brown it by holding +over it a red-hot shovel. + + +STUFFED CUCUMBERS. + +Cut off one end of each of the cucumbers, and scoop out all the seeds +with a fork. Then pare them. Prepare a stuffing made of bread crumbs, +cold meat minced, salt, pepper, and sweet-herbs. Fill your cucumbers +with it, and fasten on with a skewer the pieces you have cut off from +their ends. Sow up every one separately in a thin cloth. Put them into a +pan with butter, flour, a bunch of sweet-herbs, and a little warm water. +Let them stew very slowly for about two hours, and then take them out. +Remove the cloths, and serve up the cucumbers with the sauce under them. + + +STUFFED TOMATAS. + +Scoop out the inside of a dozen large tomatas, without spoiling their +shape. Pass the inside through a sieve, and then mix it with grated +bread, chopped sweet-herbs, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Stew it ten +minutes, with a laurel leaf, or two peach leaves. Remove the leaves, and +stuff the tomatas with the mixture, tying a string round each to keep +them in shape. Sprinkle them all over with rasped bread-crust. Set them +in a buttered dish, and bake them in an oven. Take off the strings, and +serve up the tomatas. + +Egg-plants may be cooked in the same manner. + + +CAULIFLOWERS WITH CHEESE. + +Having washed and boiled your cauliflowers in salt and water, drain them +well. Make a white sauce in a small pan, with butter rolled in flour, +and a little milk. Pour some of this sauce into the bottom of a dish +that will bear the fire. Chop your cauliflower, and spread a layer of it +on the sauce. Then cover it with a layer of rich cheese, grated and +slightly sprinkled with pepper. Then spread on the remainder of the +cauliflower, and then another layer of peppered cheese, and so on till +your dish is nearly full. Pour over it the rest of the sauce. Prepare +two or three handfuls of grated bread, mixed with a little of the grated +cheese. Spread it all over the surface of the last layer of cauliflower, +and smooth it with the back of a spoon. Allow a quarter of a pound of +cheese to each cauliflower. + +Put the dish in a slow oven about a quarter of an hour before you serve +it up, and bake it till a brown crust forms on the outside. Clear off +the butter from the edges of the dish, and send it to table hot. + +Broccoli may be done in the same manner. + + +RAGOOED CABBAGE. + +Wash a fine savoy cabbage, and boil it for half an hour in salt and +water. Then take it out, drain it, and lay it for ten minutes in cold +water. Afterwards squeeze and drain it well, and take out the stalk. +Chop the cabbage slightly, and put it into a stew-pan with a quarter of +a pound of butter, and add two table-spoonfuls of flour. Season it with +salt and pepper, and moisten it with a little water. Let it stew slowly +for an hour, and then serve it up. + +Cauliflowers or broccoli may be done in the same manner. + + +RAGOOED MUSHROOMS. + +Take a pint of fresh mushrooms. When they are peeled and the stalks cut +off, put the mushrooms into a stew-pan with two table-spoonfuls of +vinegar, a sprig or two of parsley, a small onion, a few chives chopped +fine, some salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Let it boil gently for a +quarter of an hour. Before it goes to table, stir in the yolks of two +eggs. + +If the onion has turned blue or black, throw the whole away, as it is +evident that some poisonous ones are among the mushrooms. + + + + +PUREES. + + +The word Puree cannot be exactly translated, as there is nothing in the +English language that gives precisely the same idea. In French it is +generally applied to a certain manner of cooking vegetables that +converts them into a substance resembling marmalade, which, when the +coarser parts are strained out, leaves a fine smooth jelly. + +It is served up with meat. + + +PUREE OF TURNIPS. + +Wash and pare some of the finest turnips. Cut them into small pieces, +and let them lie for half an hour in cold water. Then take them out and +drain them. Put them into a stew-pan, with a large piece of butter and +some salt and pepper. Moisten them with a little broth or boiling water. +Let them stew over a very slow fire, for five or six hours, stirring +them frequently. Then rub them through a sieve, and serve up the jelly +with roast meat. + + +PUREE OF CELERY. + +Wash your celery, peel it, and stew it slowly for three or four hours, +with salt, and a very little water. Then pass it through a sieve, and +season it with pepper, salt, and nutmeg to your taste. + + +PUREE OF ONIONS. + +Take thirty onions; cut them in slices and put them into a stew-pan, +with a little salt, pepper, and a grated nutmeg. Let them stew slowly +till they are of a fine brown color, and then add a table-spoonful of +broth or warm water. + +When it has attained the proper consistence, strain it and serve it up. + + +PUREE OF MUSHROOMS. + +Peel a pint of mushrooms, cut them in pieces, and put them in a pan with +as much cold water as will keep them from burning. Throw in with them a +small onion to test their goodness; as, if there is a bad or poisonous +one among them, the onion will turn of a bluish black while cooking. In +that case, throw them all away. + +Stew them slowly till they have lost all shape and have become an +undistinguishable mass. Then strain them. + +Put into a stew-pan a large piece of butter, or a spoonful of flour, and +two lumps of sugar. Add your puree, and let it stew again for about five +minutes. When you take it off the fire, stir in the yolks of two eggs +slightly beaten, and a spoonful of cream or rich milk. Put it in the +middle of a dish, and lay round it thin slices of fried bread or toast. + + +PUREE OF BEANS. + +Having strung and cut your beans till you have a quart, throw them into +boiling water, with a little salt. Let them remain a quarter of an hour. +Then drain them, and throw into cold water to green them. After they +have lain half an hour in the cold water, take them out and drain them +again. + +Put a large piece of butter into a stew-pan with some pepper, a little +salt, and a spoonful of flour. Add your beans, and cover them with broth +or warm water. Put in a bunch of sweet-herbs cut small, and stew the +whole very slowly till it has dissolved into a mass. Then strain it. Put +a piece of butter into the puree, and serve it up. + + +PUREE OF GREEN PEAS. + +Take a quart of shelled green peas. Wash them, and put them into a +stew-pan with water enough to cover them, a little salt and pepper, a +piece of butter the size of a walnut, a laurel leaf or a couple of +peach-leaves, and a bunch of mint. + +Let them stew very slowly; and if necessary moisten them occasionally +with a little warm water or broth. Stir them frequently, that they may +not stick to the pan. When they become of the consistence of marmalade, +strain it. Chop an onion fine, fry it in butter, and have it ready to +mix with the puree. + +Dried split peas may be made into a puree in the same manner. + +Purees may be made in a similar manner of different sorts of meat, +poultry &c. seasoned, stewed slowly to a jelly, then strained through a +cullender or sieve, and taken as soups. + + + + +EGGS, &c. + + +In choosing eggs, hold them up against the light, and if you see that +the yolk is round, and the white thin and clear, you may suppose them to +be good. But if the yolk appears to be broken and mixed with the white, +giving it a thick cloudy look, you may be sure that the egg is bad. Eggs +may be preserved by keeping them in a keg of lime-water, or by greasing +each egg all over with dripping, and putting them into a tight vessel +filled with wood-ashes, placing them all with their small ends +downwards. You may also keep them by burying them in salt. Still they +are never so good as when quite fresh. + +When you break eggs for use, do every one separately, in a saucer. If +you find the egg good, throw it into the pan in which they are to be +beaten. If you meet with a bad one, throw it away and wash the saucer or +get a clean one. A single bad egg will make the whole mixture heavy, +spungy, and of an unpleasant taste. + + +BOILED EGGS. + +When the water boils hard, put in the eggs, and let them boil exactly +three minutes. Then take them out, and cover them up for about a minute, +which will greatly improve them. Send them to table wrapped in a napkin, +and laid in a deep dish. + + +FRIED EGGS. + +Melt a piece of butter in a frying-pan. When it ceases to hiss, put in +the yolks only of your eggs. Season them with pepper and salt. When +fried, color them by holding over them a red-hot shovel. + + +STEWED EGGS. + +Melt some butter in a dish that will bear the fire. Add to it salt, and +nutmeg, and a little milk in the proportion of a table-spoonful to each +egg. Mix them well together. Then lay over it the yolks of your eggs, +first ascertaining that they are all good. Let it stew over a slow fire +for a few minutes; and color it by holding over it a red-hot shovel. The +eggs must not be allowed to get hard, but the surface should be soft and +perfectly smooth and even. + +Before you put in the eggs, you may stir into the mixture some heads of +boiled asparagus. + + +STUFFED EGGS. + +Boil twelve eggs hard. Take off the shell, and cut each egg in half. +Take out the yolks, and pound them in a mortar with a quarter of a pound +of butter; a nutmeg; some grated bread that has been soaked in milk; a +little salt; and if you choose, some minced sweet-herbs. Fill the whites +of the eggs with this stuffing, heaping it up, and smoothing it into a +round even shape. Butter a dish, and spread over the inside a thin layer +of the stuffing. Arrange in it all your halves of eggs, the bottoms +downwards. Put them into an oven, the lid of which must be hot. Let them +set about five minutes, and then send them to table. + + +EGG SNOW. + +Take a quart of milk, and stir into it two spoonfuls of rose-water, and +a quarter of a pound of white sugar, with a powdered nutmeg. Add by +degrees the yolks of twelve eggs well beaten. Boil the whole together, +stirring it all the time, so as to make a thick smooth custard. If you +keep it too long on the fire, it will be lumpy. Set it away to get cold +in a deep dish. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth that will +stand alone, adding to it twelve drops of essence of lemon. Heap it on +the dish of custard so as to look like a pile of snow; or you may drop +it with a large spoon, so as to form separate balls. On the top of each +ball you may lay a tea-spoonful of stiff currant-jelly. + + +PANCAKES. + +Beat together a quart of sifted flour, six eggs, a table-spoonful of +brandy, a grated nutmeg, a little salt, and sufficient water to make a +thin batter. Melt a piece of butter in a frying-pan, or substitute a +little sweet-oil. Pour in a ladleful of the batter, and let it spread +into a circular form. When it is slightly brown on one side, turn it +carefully on the other. Serve them up with white sugar grated over each. + +You may color them pink, by stirring into the mixture some of the juice +of a beet-root, which has been boiled and then beaten in a mortar. + + +OMELETS. + +_Cheese Omelet._--Grate some rich cheese, and mix it gradually with your +eggs while beating them. Season with salt and pepper. Melt some butter +in a frying-pan. Put in your omelet, and fry it first on one side, and +then on the other. When you dish it up, fold it over in half. + +_Bread Omelet._--Put two handfuls or more of bread crumbs into half a +pint of cream, with a grated nutmeg and a little salt. When the bread +has absorbed all the cream, stir it into the eggs as you beat them for +the omelet. Fry it in butter, and when dished, fold one half over the +other. + +_Lobster Omelet._--Beat in a mortar the flesh of a boiled lobster, +adding, at times, a little butter; and season it with pepper and salt. +Stir it gradually into the eggs while beating them. Fry it in butter. + +_Onion Omelet._--Boil some onions; mince them fine, and moisten them +with milk. Stir them into the eggs as you beat them. + +_Ham Omelet._--Is made with grated cold ham, stirred into the eggs while +beating. + +Omelets may be seasoned in the same manner with parsley, chopped +sweet-herbs, or mushrooms. Also with minced oysters. + + +MACCARONI. + +Boil half a pound of maccaroni with two ounces of butter, some whole +pepper, and a little salt. Do not let it boil long enough for the +maccaroni to lose its shape. When done, mix with it a quarter of a pound +of rich cheese, scraped or grated. Butter a deep dish, and put the +mixture into it. Then set it for a quarter of an hour in the oven. Brown +the top with a red-hot shovel. + + +MACCARONI PIE. + +Take half a pound of maccaroni, and put it into a stew-pan with an ounce +of butter, a little salt and pepper, and water enough to cover it. Stew +it till dry. Then grate a quarter of a pound of fine cheese, and mix it +with the maccaroni, adding another ounce of butter. Set it away to get +cold. + +Take another pan, which must be very deep, with a flat bottom, and +nearly the shape of a drum. Butter the inside. Make a good paste, and +cover with it the whole interior of the pan, sides and bottom. Put in +the maccaroni. Cover the pie with a lid of paste. Bake it at least half +an hour. When done, loosen it from the pan and turn it out on a dish. It +will be in the form of a drum, if the pan was of that shape. + + +BLANCMANGE IN EGGS. + +Take two ounces of shelled sweet almonds, and one ounce of shelled +bitter almonds. Blanch them by throwing them into scalding water to make +the skins peel off easily; then put them in cold water; wipe them dry +afterwards, and pound them in a mortar, adding at times a little +rose-water. + +Dissolve an ounce of isinglass in warm water, and then stir it into a +quart of cream. Add a quarter of a pound of broken loaf-sugar, and a +wine-glass of rose-water. Boil it hard for a quarter of an hour, and +stir it all the time. Then strain it through a linen bag, and put it +into egg-cups, or into the halves of egg-shells nicely and evenly +trimmed, and set it away in a cold place to congeal. + +Have ready some calves-feet jelly (made according to the directions +given in the article "Chickens in Jelly"); and when the blancmange is +firm, take out a small piece from the middle of each cupful, and replace +it with a lump of the jelly, put in so as to look like the yolk of the +egg. Or if more convenient, you need not put in the jelly till you have +taken the blancmange out of the cups or egg-shells, which must be done +by wetting the moulds with warm water on the outside. + +The jelly for this purpose must be very high-colored, by means of +brandy, or dark sweet wine. + +If nicely managed, the blancmange and jelly will look like eggs cut in +half. Lay them in a circle round a dish that contains something high and +ornamental,--for instance, a pyramid of ice-cream. + + + + +PART THE SIXTH. + + + + +PASTRY, CAKES, &c. + + +FRENCH PASTE. + +Sift a quart of flour, and lay it in a pan. Make a hole in the middle, +and put into it the white of an egg slightly beaten, a piece of butter +the size of an egg, and a very little salt. Pour in gradually as much +cold water as will moisten it. Mix it well with your hands, as rapidly +as possible, and see that no lumps are left in it. Set it away to cool, +and in a quarter of an hour roll it out, and spread over it half a pound +of butter which has been kept in ice. Then fold up the paste with the +four sides laid one over another, so as entirely to inclose the butter, +and set it for half an hour in a cool place. Then roll it again; fold +it, and give it another roll. Set it away again; and in half an hour +roll it out twice more, and it will be fit for use. + + +PUFF PASTE. + +May be made with a pound of butter, and a pound and a quarter of sifted +flour. The butter must be washed in cold water, and then squeezed very +hard, and made up into a lump. Divide it into eight parts. Mix one part +of the butter with the flour, adding just enough of water to moisten it. +Roll it out; spread over it a second portion of the butter; flour it; +fold it up, and roll it out again, adding another division of the +butter. Repeat this till you get in all the butter, a piece at a time, +folding and rolling the paste with each separate portion of the butter. +Then set it away to cool. If it sets several hours, it will be the +better for it; and better still if the paste is made the night before it +is wanted; always keeping it in a cold place. + +While buttering and rolling, do every thing as quickly as possible. + +Before you put it into the dishes, roll it out once more. It is +difficult in warm weather to make good puff paste without a marble +table, or slab, to roll it on. + + +CREAM TARTS. + +Mix together a quart of flour, half a pound of butter, a little salt, +and two beaten eggs. Add a little cold water; make it into a paste, and +set it away to cool. Then roll it out again. Cut it into round shapes +with the edge of a tumbler. Lay round each a rim made of an even strip +of the paste, and notch it handsomely. Bake them for a quarter of an +hour, and then take them from the oven. Beat together a pint of cream, +four eggs, and four table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar. Fill the tarts +with this mixture, grate nutmeg over each, and bake them again for a +quarter of an hour. + + +ALMOND TARTS. + +Blanch half a pound of shelled sweet almonds and three ounces of shelled +bitter almonds. Beat them, a few at a time, in a mortar, mixing them +well, and adding at times a little rose-water. When done, mix with them +a quarter of a pound of loaf-sugar powdered, and the juice and grated +peel of half a lemon. + +Have ready some fine paste. Cut it into circular pieces about the size +and thickness of a dollar. Put into each piece of paste some of the +almond mixture, heaping it up in the centre. Cover them with lids of +the same, and crimp the edges very neatly. Bake them about half an hour, +and grate sugar over them when done. + + +RISSOLES. + +Make some fine paste, and cut it out with the edge of a tumbler. Have +ready some minced veal, seasoned in the best manner, or some chopped +oysters, or any sort of force-meat, and lay some of it on one half of +each piece of paste. Then turn over it the other half, so as to inclose +the meat. Crimp the edges. Put some butter into a frying-pan. Lay the +rissoles into it, and fry them of a light brown. + +They should be in the shape of a half-moon. + + +ALMOND CUSTARDS. + +Blanch and pound in a mortar half a pound of shelled sweet almonds, and +three ounces of peach-kernels, or shelled bitter almonds, adding +sufficient rose-water to moisten them. When they are all pounded to a +paste, mix with them a quarter of a pound of powdered loaf-sugar, and +boil them in a quart of milk or cream. Then set it away to cool. When +cold, stir eight beaten eggs into it. Put the mixture into cups. Set +them in an iron oven half filled with water, and bake them. + + +VANILLA CUSTARDS. + +Cut a vanilla bean into slips, and boil them in a quart of milk, with a +quarter of a pound of white sugar. Let it boil slowly for a quarter of +an hour, and then set it away to cool. When cold, stir into it eight +beaten eggs, having left out the whites of four. Put the mixture into +cups, set them in water and bake them. Color them when done, by holding +over them a red-hot shovel. When cold, grate on sugar. + + * * * * * + +_Lemon Custards_ are made in the same manner; substituting for the +vanilla bean the grated rind of a large fresh lemon. + + +CHOCOLATE CUSTARDS. + +Cut into pieces half a pound of the best chocolate. Pour on it +sufficient milk to prevent its burning, and let it boil ten minutes. +After you remove it from the fire, have ready a pint of boiling milk or +cream, and pour it on the chocolate. Beat together the yolks of eight +eggs and the whites of two only, and stir them into the chocolate with +two ounces, or more, of loaf-sugar. Put the mixture into cups, set them +in an oven with water in it, and bake them. Beat the six remaining +whites of eggs to a froth, adding a very little sugar, and heap some of +the froth on each custard. You may lay on the top of each heap of froth +one of the bonbons or confections called chocolate-nuts. + + +COFFEE CUSTARDS. + +Take two ounces of roasted coffee and two ounces of raw coffee. Pound +them together in a mortar, but do not grind them. Boil this coffee in a +quart of rich milk. Let it get cold, and then strain it. Stir into it +two ounces of powdered loaf-sugar, and two large spoonfuls of cream. +Beat eight eggs, omitting the whites of four. Stir them gradually into +the coffee. Put it into cups, and bake the custards in an oven with +water. Grate white sugar over the tops when cold. + + +TEA CUSTARDS. + +Boil a quart of cream or rich milk, and pour it (while boiling) on three +ounces of the best green tea. Add two ounces of loaf sugar. Cover it and +set it away. Take eight eggs, and beat them well, leaving out the whites +of four; and when the tea is cold, stir in the eggs. Then strain the +whole mixture; put it into cups, and bake them in an oven with water. +Grate sugar over the top of each. + + +RICE POTTAGE. + +Put six table-spoonfuls of rice into a pint of water, and boil it till +quite soft. Drain it through a sieve, and put the rice into a quart of +milk with a quarter of a pound of sugar, and three or four peach-leaves, +or a few peach-kernels. Boil it, and before you serve it up, take out +the peach-leaves or kernels, and stir in the yolks of two eggs. + + +APPLE FRITTERS. + +Pare and core some fine large pippins, and cut them into round slices. +Soak them in brandy for two or three hours. Make a batter, in the +proportion of four eggs to a table-spoonful of olive-oil, a table +spoonful of rose-water, the same quantity of brandy, the same quantity +of cold water. Thicken the batter with a sufficient quantity of flour +stirred in by degrees, and mix it two or three hours before it is +wanted, that it may be light by fermentation. + +Put some butter into a frying-pan. Dip each slice of apple into the +batter, and fry them brown. Then drain them, grate white sugar over +them, and send them to table. + + * * * * * + +_Peach Fritters_ may be made in the same way, but the peaches must be +cut into quarters. + + +BREAD FRITTERS. + +Boil a quart of milk with cinnamon and sugar to your taste. When done, +stir in a table-spoonful of rose-water. Cut some slices of bread into a +circular shape. Soak them in the milk till they have absorbed it. Then +drain them. Have ready some yolks of eggs well beaten. Dip the slices of +bread into it, and fry them in butter. Serve them up strewed with +powdered sugar. + + +RICE CAKE. + +Take half a pound of rice and wash it well. Put it into a pint of cream +or milk, and boil it soft. Let it get cold. Then stir into it +alternately a quarter of a pound of sugar, two ounces of butter, eight +eggs well beaten (having left out the whites of four), and a wine-glass +of rose-water, or else the grated peel of a lemon. Mix all well. Butter +a mould or a deep pan with straight sides, and spread grated bread +crumbs all over its inside. Put in the mixture, and bake it three +quarters of an hour. + +Ground rice is best for this cake. + +If any of the cake is left, you may next day cut it in slices and fry +them in butter. + +Or, instead of baking the mixture in a large cake, you may put flour on +your hands, and roll it into round balls. Make a batter of beaten eggs, +sugar, and grated bread; dip the balls into it, and fry them in butter. + + +POTATO CAKE. + +Roast in the ashes a dozen small or six large potatoes. When done, peel +them, and put them into a pan with a little salt, and the rind of a +lemon grated. Add a quarter of a pound of butter, or half a pint of +cream, and a quarter of a pound of sugar. Having mashed the potatoes +with this mixture, rub it through a cullender, and stir it very hard. +Then set it away to cool. + +Beat eight eggs, and stir them gradually into the mixture. Season it +with a tea-spoonful of mixed spice, and half a glass of rose-water. + +Butter a mould or a deep dish, and spread the inside all over with +grated bread. Put in the mixture, and bake it for three quarters of an +hour. + + +SPONGE CAKE--CALLED IN FRANCE BISCUIT. + +Take ten eggs, and beat them till very thick and smooth. Add gradually a +pound of powdered loaf-sugar. Rub a lump of loaf-sugar all over the rind +of a large lemon, to draw the juice to the surface; then grate the peel +of the lemon, and stir it into the mixture, together with the lump of +sugar. Squeeze in the juice of the lemon, and add two table-spoonfuls of +rose-water. Beat the mixture very hard; then take half a pound of potato +flour (which is best), or else of fine wheat flour, and stir it in very +lightly and slowly. It must be baked immediately. + +Have ready some small square or oblong cases of thick white paper, with +an edge turned up all round, and sewed at the corners. They should be +about a finger in length, half a finger in breadth, and an inch and a +half in depth. Either butter these paper-cases, or sift white sugar all +over the inside. Put some of the mixture into each case, but do not fill +them to the top. Grate loaf-sugar over the top of each, and bake them +quickly. + +These cakes are much better when baked in paper cases; tins being +generally too thick for them. No cake requires greater care in baking. +If the oven is not hot enough, both at top and bottom, they will fall +and be heavy, and lose their shape. + + +CROQUETTES. + +Take a pound of powdered sugar, a pound of butter, half a pound of +wheat-flour, and half a pound of Indian meal; mix all together, and add +the juice and grated peel of a large lemon, with spice to your taste. +Make it into a lump of paste. Then put it into a mortar, and beat it +hard on all sides. + +Roll it out thin, and cut it into cakes with the edge of a tumbler, or +with a tin cutter. + +Flour a shallow tin pan. Lay the cakes into it, but not close together. +Bake them about ten minutes. Grate sugar over them when done. + + +MARGUERITES. + +Beat together till very light, a pound of butter and a pound of powdered +sugar. Sift a pound of flour into a pan. Take the yolks only, of twelve +eggs, and beat them till very thick and smooth. Pour them into the +flour, and add the beaten butter and sugar. Stir in a grated nutmeg, and +a wine-glass of rose-water. Mix the whole together, till it becomes a +lump of dough. + +Flour your paste-board, and lay the dough upon it; sprinkle it with +flour. Roll it out about half an inch thick, and cut it into round cakes +with the edge of a cup. Flour a shallow pan, put in the cakes (so as not +to touch), and bake them about five minutes in a quick oven. If the oven +is too cool, they will run. + +When the cakes are cool, lay on each a large lump of currant jelly. Take +the whites of the eggs, and beat them till they stand alone. Then add to +them, by degrees, sufficient powdered sugar to make the consistence of +icing, and ten drops of strong essence of lemon. Heap on each cake, with +a spoon, a pile of the icing over the currant-jelly. Set them in a cool +oven till the icing becomes firm and of a pale brownish tint. + +These cakes are very fine. + + +WAFERS. + +Sift half a pound of flour into a pan. Make a hole in the middle, and +put in three beaten eggs, a table-spoonful of brandy, a table-spoonful +of powdered sugar, a table-spoonful of sweet-oil, and a very little +salt, not more than will lie on a sixpence. Mix all together, adding +gradually a little milk, till you have a batter about the thickness of +good cream. Then stir in a table-spoonful of rose-water. Let there be no +lumps in the batter. Heat your wafer-iron on both sides, in a clear +fire, but do not allow it to get red-hot. Then grease the inside with a +brush dipped in sweet-oil, or a clean rag with some butter tied up in +it. Then put in the batter, allowing about two table-spoonfuls to each +wafer. Close the iron, and in baking turn it first on one side and then +on the other. When done, sprinkle the wafers with powdered sugar, and +roll each one up, pressing the edges together while warm, so as to make +them unite. + +A little practice will soon show you the proper degree of heat, and the +time necessary for baking the wafers. They should be but slightly +colored, and of an even tint all over. + + +GINGERBREAD. + +Mix together two pounds of flour, one pound of sugar, five beaten eggs, +three quarters of a pound of butter, and a tea-cupful of ginger. Put the +flour to the other ingredients, a little at a time, and stir the whole +very hard. Melt a tea-spoonful of sal aratus or fine pearl-ash in a +little sour milk, and stir it in at the last. Roll the dough into +sheets, and cut it out with square tins. If not stiff enough for +rolling, add a little more flour. Lay it in buttered pans, and bake it +in a moderate oven. + + + + +PART THE SEVENTH. + + + + +PREPARATIONS OF FRUIT, SUGAR, &c. + + +AN APPLE CHARLOTTE. + +Pare and core some fine pippins, and cut them into small pieces. Melt +some butter in the bottom of a pan. Then lay your apples in it with a +sufficient proportion of sugar, beaten cinnamon or nutmeg, and some +rose-water or grated lemon-peel. Set the pan in an oven, and let the +apples bake till they are quite soft. Then take them out of the pan, and +mash them to a marmalade with the back of a spoon. + +Cut some thin slices of bread into a triangular or three-cornered shape, +and dip them in melted butter. Then butter a broad deep dish, and lay +the pieces of bread in the bottom of it, making the points meet in the +centre. Spread a thick layer of apple all over the bread; then more +bread, covered with another layer of apple, and so on till the dish is +full; having a cover of bread on the top. Set it in the oven, and bake +it slowly about a quarter of an hour. + +A very fine Charlotte may be made by substituting slices of spunge-cake +for the bread, or having square spunge-cakes laid round, leaving a hole +in the centre to be filled up with gooseberry jelly. If you use +spunge-cake, you need not put it in the oven. + + +APPLE COMPOTE. + +Pare and core some large pippins, but leave them whole. Make a syrup by +boiling and skimming a pound of loaf-sugar melted in a gill of water, +into which the half of the white of an egg has been beaten. When the +syrup is quite clear, boil the apples in it till soft and tender. Then +take them out, lay them in a deep dish, and fill up with small +sweet-meats or marmalade the holes from whence you took the cores. + +Boil the syrup again till it becomes a jelly. Pour it hot over your +apples, and set it in a cool place to congeal. + +The syrup will be much improved by adding to it the juice of one or two +lemons, or a dozen drops of essence of lemon. + + +COMPOTE OF PEARS. + +Pare them, but leave on the stems. Lay them in a preserving-pan; and to +a dozen moderate-sized pears, put half a pound of white sugar, a gill of +water, and a few sticks of cinnamon, with some slips of lemon-peel. +Simmer them till tender; and when half done, pour in a glass of +port-wine. When quite done, take out the pears and lay them in a deep +dish. Strain the syrup; give it another boil, and pour it over them. + + +COMPOTE OF CHESTNUTS. + +Take some of the largest and finest chestnuts. Cut a slit in the shell +of each, and roast them in a charcoal furnace, taking care not to burn +them. When done, peel them and put them into a pan with some powdered +sugar, and a very little water. Let them simmer over a slow fire for +about a quarter of an hour. When done, take them out, put them into a +dish, squeeze over them some lemon-juice, and sprinkle them with +powdered sugar. + + +FRIED APPLES. + +Pare and core some of the largest and finest pippins, and cut them into +thin round slices. Mix together in a deep dish some brandy, lemon-juice, +and powdered sugar. Lay the slices of apple in it, and let them soak for +several hours. Then drain them, and dip each slice in flour. Put some +butter into a pan, and fry the apples of a fine brown. Dish them, and +grate loaf-sugar over them. + +Quinces may be done in the same manner. So also may peaches, but they +must be cut in half. + + +PEACH MARMALADE. + +Take ripe peaches; pare them and cut them in half, taking out the +stones. Weigh them, and to each pound of fruit allow half a pound of +loaf-sugar. Mash them with the sugar, and put them in a +preserving-kettle. Boil them slowly till they become a shapeless mass, +which will generally be in about three quarters of an hour. Stir the +marmalade frequently, to prevent its sticking to the kettle. Blanch half +the kernels, and cut them in two; and when the marmalade is about half +done, put them into it to give it a fine flavor. Take out the kernels +when the marmalade is cold, and then tie it up in pots or glasses, +laying over it paper dipped in brandy. + +Marmalade of plums or green-gages may be made in the same manner. + + +BRANDY PEACHES. + +Take large yellow free-stone peaches; they must not be too ripe. Wipe +off the down with a flannel, and then prick each peach to the stone with +a large pin. Put them into a pan, and scald them with boiling water. +Cover them, and let them rest for a few minutes. This is to make them +white. You may repeat the scalding two or three times. Then take them +out to drain and dry. + +Allow a pound of the best loaf-sugar to a dozen large peaches. Put the +sugar into a preserving-kettle (lined with enamel or porcelain), and +melt it, allowing to each pound a gill of water, and half the white of +an egg. Boil the sugar, and skim it till perfectly clear. Then put in +the peaches, and give them a boil. Take them off the fire, and let them +set in the syrup till next day. + +The following morning take out the peaches, set the syrup over the fire, +and when it has boiled a few minutes put in the peaches, and give them a +short boil. Then take them out, and let them get cold. Boil down the +syrup to half its original quantity, but take care that it does not boil +long enough to congeal or become thick. Put the peaches into a glass +jar, and pour the syrup over them. Fill up the jar with brandy, and +cover it closely. + +Apricots may be done in the same manner. Also pears. The stems must be +left on the pears. + + +GOOSEBERRY POTTAGE. + +Stew two quarts of fine large gooseberries in just sufficient water to +cover them. When quite soft and broken, mash them with the back of a +spoon, make them very sweet with sugar, and set them away to get cold. +Take three pints of rich milk; stir into it a pounded nutmeg and the +yolks of four eggs. Then set it over a bed of hot coals, and let it +simmer, stirring it gently all the time. Before it comes to a boil, take +it off the fire and gradually stir in the gooseberries. It must be +quite cold before you serve it up. Send it to table in a bowl, and eat +spunge-cake with it. + +It will be still nicer, if you use the pulp only of the gooseberries, +pressed through a sieve or cullender. + + +FRUIT JELLIES. + +Previous to making your jelly, clarify the sugar, which must be the best +loaf. Break it up, and to each pound allow a gill of water and an ounce +of isinglass. Mix the water with the sugar. Dissolve the isinglass in as +much hot water as will cover it. Set the sugar over the fire in a +preserving-kettle; and when it is beginning to boil, throw in the melted +isinglass. Skim the syrup well, and when it is quite clear and no more +scum rises, take it from the fire, cover it, and leave it to settle. + +Prepare the fruit of which you intend to make the jelly. If small fruit, +such as gooseberries, currants, grapes, raspberries, or strawberries; +pick them from the stems, and put them into a jar; set the jar in a +vessel of warm water, and let them come to a boil. Then take them out, +put them into a fine sieve, set a pan under it, and with the back of a +large spoon press out all the juice from the fruit. Mix the juice, while +warm, with the clarified sugar, and boil them together for about a +quarter of an hour. Then put it into your jars or glasses, and tie it up +with brandy-paper. + +If you want the jelly for immediate use, put it into a mould; set the +mould in ice for two or three hours; and when the jelly is congealed, +loosen it by setting the mould in warm water, and then turn it out. + + +PRESERVED PUMPKIN. + +Take a fine ripe pumpkin of a deep rich color. Cut from it as many +slices as you want; they should be very thin. Have ready some +lime-water. Put into it the slices of pumpkin, and let them soak for +twenty-four hours. Then take them out, wash them well in cold water, and +wipe them dry. Having prepared a nicely clarified syrup of sugar, put +the slices of pumpkin into it, and let them simmer over a slow fire +without stirring, for a day and a night; but first flavor them to your +taste with lemon-juice mixed into the syrup. When done, they will be +crisp and transparent. Put them into broad stone or queensware pots, and +tie them up with brandy-paper. + + +PRESERVED RASPBERRIES. + +Let your raspberries be gathered on a dry day. Measure them, and to a +quart of raspberries allow a pound of fine loaf-sugar. Spread the fruit +on large dishes, but do not heap it; let every raspberry lie singly. +Pound the sugar to powder, and sift it over the fruit. + +Then have ready the same quantity of ripe currants. Squeeze them through +a linen bag which has been wrung out of cold water. Prepare a pound of +loaf-sugar for each pint of currant juice. Put the sugar into a +preserving-kettle, and pour the currant-juice over it. When it has +melted, set it on the fire, and boil and skim it for ten minutes. When +no more scum rises, put in the raspberries. As soon as they are all +scalded, take off the kettle, cover it, and set it away for two hours. +Then put it again on the fire for about five minutes. Afterward set it +again away for two hours, and then return it to the fire as before. +This must be done three times in all, but on no account allow the +raspberries to boil. If done with care, they will be whole and +transparent. + +When cold, put them up in glasses. + + * * * * * + +If you preserve white raspberries, do them in the juice of white +currants. + + * * * * * + +Any other fruit may be done in jelly in the same manner. + + +ORANGE JELLY. + +Peel twelve large sweet oranges, and cut them into small pieces. Put +them into a linen bag, and squeeze out all the juice. Measure the juice, +and if it does not amount to a pint, squeeze some more pieces of orange +through the bag. Put a pound of double-refined loaf-sugar into a +preserving kettle, and pour the juice over it. When the sugar has +melted, put it over the fire. Dissolve two ounces of isinglass in a +little hot water, and add it to the jelly just as it is beginning to +boil. Let it boil hard twenty minutes. Then put it into glasses, and tie +it up with brandy-paper. + +Lemon-jelly may be made in this manner. + + +CLARIFIED SUGAR, FOR PRESERVES, AND OTHER USES. + +To each pound of sugar allow half a pint of water, and half the white of +an egg; thus four pounds of sugar will require a quart of water and the +whites of two eggs. Mix the white of egg with the water, and beat it to +a froth with rods. Take two thirds of the water, and pour it over the +sugar. When it has melted, set it over the fire. When it rises and +boils, pour in a little more of the water, and diminish the fire to +abate the boiling and allow the scum to rise. Take it off, skim it well, +and in five minutes set it on the fire again. When it boils a second +time, add a little more water; and afterwards take it off and skim it +again. Repeat this till it is quite clear, and no more scum rises. Then +take it from the fire. Dip a fine napkin in warm water, wring it out, +and then strain the syrup through it. Afterwards put your fruit into the +syrup, and boil it till tender. + +You may keep this syrup in bottles, and at any time you can put fruit +into it; for instance, strawberries, raspberries plums, apricots &c. If +only wanted for immediate use, you need not boil them, but send them to +table in the syrup, with the advantage of their natural color and +flavor. + + +FRUIT IN SUGAR COATS. + +Prepare some of the best loaf-sugar powdered as fine as possible. Have +ready some white of egg. Take some of the best and largest plums, +cherries, strawberries, raspberries, apricots (peeled) or any other +suitable fruit. + +Dip the fruit, separately, in the white of egg, and then roll it all +over in the powdered sugar, which will thus adhere to it, and form a +coat. Then lay it on a dish (spreading it out so as not to touch) and +set it in a cool oven to harden. + + +BURNT ALMONDS. + +Take a pound of shelled sweet almonds, a pound of loaf-sugar, and half a +pint of water. Melt the sugar in the water, and then set it over the +fire. Put in the almonds, and stir them about till they are well +dispersed through the sugar. Let them boil, and when you hear the +almonds crack, they are sufficiently done. Take them off, and stir them +till they are dry, and then put them into a wire sieve, and sift from +them the loose sugar. Put this sugar again into the pan, with sufficient +water to moisten it, and let it come to a boil. Then put in two +spoonfuls of cochineal powder to color it red; add the almonds, and stir +them over the fire till they are quite dry. Put them away in glass jars. + + +PEPPERMINT DROPS + +Powder some fine loaf-sugar, add to it a little essence of peppermint +(sufficient to give it a strong flavor) and enough of water to make it +into a thick paste, which you must mix on a plate with the point of a +broad knife. Then put the paste into a pan that has a lip or little +spout at one side; melt it over the fire, and let it come to a boil. As +soon as it boils, take it off and drop it from the lip of the pan into a +clean broad tin pan or plate. Let the drops be all of the same size and +shape. The tin pan that receives them must be very cold. As soon as the +drops have hardened, loosen them from the tin, by slipping the point of +a knife under each. + +You may color them red with cochineal. + +Keep them in a glass jar. + +If the mixture congeals before all the drops are made, melt it again +over the fire. + + +CHOCOLATE DROPS. + +Scrape some of the best chocolate, and mix it with powdered white sugar. +Moisten it with a little water, so as to make a paste. Work it on a +plate with a knife. Then boil it in a pan with a lip, and pour it (a +drop at a time) into a cold tin pan. While moist, sprinkle colored +sugar-sand or non-pareils over the surface of each chocolate drop, which +drop must be of a good shape, and about the size of a sixpence. When +they are hardened, take them off the tin, by slipping under them the +point of a knife. + +Keep them in glass jars. + +After the chocolate has boiled, make the drops as fast as possible; for +if it gets cold before they are all done, it will injure it much to boil +it over again. + +The confectioners use for these purposes small leaden moulds, greased +with oil of almonds. Into these moulds they pour the mixture, so that +every thing comes out of the same size and shape. + + +NOUGAT. + +This is a very fine confection. Take three quarters of a pound of +shelled sweet almonds, and one quarter of a pound of shelled bitter +almonds. Blanch them by scalding them in boiling water. Then throw them +into cold water, and take them out and wipe them. Cut them into small +pieces (but do not pound them,) and mix them well together. + +Take a pound of loaf-sugar broken small, and mix it with half a pint of +cold water, and an ounce of isinglass melted in a very little hot water. +Boil the sugar, and skim it well. When it is quite clear, throw in your +almonds, having first squeezed over them the juice of two lemons. Stir +the almonds well through the sugar; and as soon as they are properly +mixed with it, take the kettle off the fire. + +Have ready a mould or a square tin pan well greased with sweet-oil. Put +your mixture into it, a little at a time; dispersing the almonds equally +through the sugar, before it has time to get cold. But if it does chill +before the almonds are well mixed in it, set it again over the fire to +melt. Turn it frequently in the mould, to prevent its sticking. When it +has become a hard cake, set the mould for a moment in warm water, and +turn out the nougat. + +In stirring it, you had better use a wooden spoon. + + +ORGEAT PASTE. + +Take half a pound of shelled bitter almonds, and a pound and a half of +shelled sweet almonds. Blanch them, and pound them in a mortar one or +two at a time, pouring in frequently a little rose-water, which will +preserve their whiteness and prevent them from being oily and heavy. +Pound them to a fine smooth paste, and then mix them with a pound and a +half of loaf-sugar finely powdered. + +Put the mixture again into the mortar, a little at a time, and pound it +awhile that the sugar and almonds may be thoroughly incorporated; adding +still a little rose-water. + +When done, put it away in small covered pots or glasses, and it will +keep several months in a cool dry place. It makes a very fine drink. + +When you want to use it, put a small piece into a tumbler of cold water, +and stir it till dissolved. + + + + +LIQUEURS. + + +To filter cordials, cover the bottom of a sieve with clean blotting +paper. Pour the liquor into it (having set a vessel underneath to +receive it), and let it drip through the paper and through the sieve. +Renew the paper frequently, and fasten it down with pins. + +This process is slow, but it makes the liquor beautifully clear. + + +NOYAU. + +Take six ounces of peach kernels, and one ounce of bitter almonds. Break +them slightly. Put them into a jug with three pints of white French +brandy. Let them infuse three weeks; shaking the jug every day. Then +drain the liquor from the kernels, and strain it through a linen bag. +Melt three quarters of a pound of the best loaf-sugar in a pint of +rose-water. Mix it with the liquor, and filter it through a sieve, the +bottom of which is to be covered on the inside with blotting paper. Let +the vessel which is placed underneath to receive the liquor be entirely +white, that you may be the better enabled to judge of its clearness. If +it is not clear the first time, repeat the filtering. Then bottle it for +use. + + +RASPBERRY CORDIAL. + +Take a quart of raspberry-juice, and half a pint of cherry-juice, the +fruit having been squeezed in a linen bag after the cherries have been +stoned. Mix the juices together, and dissolve in them two pounds of +loaf-sugar. Then add two quarts of French brandy; put it into a jug, and +let it rest five weeks. Afterwards strain it, and bottle it for use. + + +ROSE CORDIAL. + +Take a pound of the leaves of full-blown red roses. Put them into a +quart of lukewarm water, and let them infuse for two days, in a covered +vessel. Then squeeze them through a linen bag, to press out all the +liquid, and take as much white brandy as you have of the decoction of +roses. To a pint of the infusion add half a pound of loaf-sugar, and a +very small quantity of coriander and cinnamon. Put it into a jug, and +let it set for two weeks. Then filter it through blotting paper, and put +it into bottles. + + +QUINCE CORDIAL. + +Pare your quinces, and scrape them to the core. Put all the scrapings +into a tureen, and see that there are no seeds among them. Let the +scrapings remain covered in the tureen for two days. Then put them into +a linen bag, and squeeze out all the juice. Measure it, and mix it with +an equal quantity of white brandy. To each pint of the mixture add half +a pound of loaf-sugar, and a little cinnamon and cloves. Put it into a +jug, and let it infuse for two months. Then filter it through blotting +paper, and bottle it. This cordial improves by age, and is excellent. + + +LEMON CORDIAL. + +Pare off very thin the yellow rind of some fine lemons. Cut the lemons +in half, and squeeze out all the juice. To each pint of the juice, +allow half a pound of loaf-sugar. Mix the juice, the peel, and the sugar +together; cover it, and let it set twenty-four hours. Then mix it with +an equal quantity of white brandy, put it into a jug, and let it set a +month. Then strain it through a linen bag; and afterwards filter it +through blotting paper, before you bottle it. + + + + +PART THE EIGHTH. + + + + +MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. + + +FRENCH COFFEE. + +Let the coffee be roasted immediately before you want to use it, as it +loses much of its strength by keeping. Its color, when done, should be a +fine bright brown; but by no means allow it to scorch. A cylindrical +coffee-roaster that can be turned by a handle, and sets before the fire, +is far preferable to a pot or a pan. Grind the coffee while warm. + +If you intend to make half a dozen cups of coffee for drinking, measure +six cups of water of the same size, and put the water into the +coffee-pot. Set it on hot coals, and when the water boils, put in two or +three chips of isinglass, or the white of an egg. Then throw in six +large tea-spoonfuls of ground coffee. Stir it several times while +boiling, and set it several times back from the fire to diminish the +boiling gradually. When it has boiled sufficiently, remove it entirely +from the coals, pour in a cup of cold water, and then put it in a corner +and let it settle for half an hour. Afterwards pour it off from the +grounds into another pot (which must first be scalded), and set it close +to the fire, but do not let it boil again. + +If you intend to serve it up with hot cream, you must make the coffee +stronger. While the coffee is clearing, boil your cream or milk, and +pour some of it hot into each cup of coffee. + + +COFFEE WITHOUT BOILING. + +Coffee made without boiling is much stronger, more economical, and less +troublesome than the usual way; but it requires a pot of a particular +construction. The best sort of pot for this purpose is called in French +a Grecque (Greek). It must be made of the best block-tin, and of a tall +cylindrical shape, with the spout very near the bottom. The receptacle +for the coffee-powder fits into the upper part of the coffee-pot, and +must be taken out when washed. The bottom of this receiver is pierced +with very small holes, and there are two other strainers, made of +movable plates of tin, also covered with fine holes. These two strainers +fit into the receiver. The powdered coffee is to be placed between them, +so that it may filter through the lower strainer, and also through the +holes at the bottom of the receiver. Having scalded the pot, put the +coffee into the receiver between the two movable strainers, and pour in +some water which must be boiling hard at the time. The coffee will then +drain through into the lower part of the pot where the spout is, and +will clear itself in passing through the holes. Shut down the lid, place +the pot near the fire, and the coffee will be ready for use as soon as +it has done draining through. + +Allow a large tea-spoonful of the powder for each cup that you intend to +have. + +This mode of preparing coffee is very expeditious, and requires neither +isinglass nor white of egg. + + +CHOCOLATE. + +Never boil chocolate in milk, as that spoils the flavor; and do not +scrape it, but merely cut it into pieces. To an ounce of chocolate allow +a cup of boiling water. + +Having first scalded the pot, put in the chocolate, pour the water on +it, and boil it till one third has evaporated. Then supply that third +with cream or milk, and take it immediately from the fire. + +You need not stir it more than two or three times. + + +FINE LEMONADE. + +Allow a whole lemon and four or five lumps of loaf-sugar to half a pint +of cold water. Roll the lemons hard on a table to make them more juicy. +Cut them in half, and squeeze them over the sugar. Then pour on the +water, and stir till the sugar is dissolved. Take out whatever seeds may +have fallen in. In warm weather, put a lump of ice into each glass. + + +PUNCH. + +Take three large lemons, and roll them very hard on the table to make +them more juicy. Then pare them as thin as possible. Cut out the pulp, +and throw away the seeds and the white part of the rind. Put the yellow +rind and the pulp into a pint of boiling water; set it on the fire, and +let it boil two or three minutes. Take it off, and throw in a +tea-spoonful of raw green tea of the best sort, and let it infuse about +five minutes. Then strain it through linen. Stir into it three quarters +of a pound of loaf-sugar, and a pint of brandy, or any other suitable +liquor. Set it again over the fire, and when it is just ready to boil, +remove it, and pour it into a china bowl or pitcher. + + +CONVENIENT LEMONADE. + +Take four ounces of powdered tartaric acid, and two drachms of essential +oil of lemon. Mix them together, and keep them in a well-corked phial. A +table-spoonful mixed with sugar and water, will make six or eight +glasses of lemonade. + +It will keep about a month, but not longer, as it will then lose its +strength. + + +FRENCH MUSTARD. + +Put on a plate an ounce of the very best mustard powder, with a +salt-spoon of salt, a few leaves of tarragon, and a clove of garlic +minced fine. Pour on by degrees sufficient vinegar to dilute it to the +proper consistence (about a wine-glassful), and mix it well with a +wooden spoon. Do not use it in less than twenty-four hours after it is +mixed. + + +POTATO FLOUR. + +Potato flour is excellent for sponge-cake, and other things which +require extraordinary lightness. It is also good for young children, and +for convalescent sick persons. + +Take the best and most mealy potatoes; pare them, and wash them through +several waters. Then rasp or grate them over a tureen half full of cold +water. Continue to grate the potatoes till the lower half of the tureen +is filled with the pulp, so that the water may rise to the top. The +mealy part of the potatoes will sink to the bottom, while the remainder +or the useless part will rise to the surface. When nothing more rises, +pour off the water carefully, and dry the flour which you find at the +bottom. When quite dry, pound it in a mortar to a fine powder, and sift +it through a sieve. + +Potato flour is much lighter than that of wheat. + + +COLD PICKLES. + +Season some of the best vinegar with a little garlic, a little tarragon, +and a little sweet-oil. Put it into a glass jar, and keep it well +covered. You may throw into it the green seeds of nasturtians, morella +cherries, little onions, small young carrots when but a finger long, +radish pods, and various other things. Keep the jar well closed, and +the pickles will be as good and keep as long as if they had been boiled. + +Nasturtians and cherries will keep in plain vinegar without any +seasoning. + + +CORNICHONS, OR FRENCH CUCUMBER PICKLES. + +Take ten pounds of very small cucumbers. Brush them all over to clean +them well, and cut off the stems. Put them into an earthen pan with two +handfuls of salt. Let them rest twenty-four hours, and then drain them. +When they are well drained, put them back into the same pan, and pour in +a quantity of boiling hot white wine vinegar, sufficient to cover them. +Then cover the pan carefully with a lid or dish, and let the cucumbers +set in the vinegar twenty-four hours. They will then be yellow. Pour the +vinegar from them, and cover them with vine-leaves. Boil the vinegar +again, and when it boils throw it over the cucumbers, stirring them +well. + +When the vinegar is cold, pour it from the cucumbers, and boil it again. +Then pour it over them, and proceed in this manner four or five times, +till they become of a fine green. Keep them in the interval always +covered with a layer of vine-leaves, fresh each time, and also with a +cloth kept down by a large dish. This, by keeping in the steam, will +assist them in greening. + +Then drain them on a sieve, and put them into glass jars. + +Afterwards, boil some fresh white wine vinegar, first mixing in it the +following seasoning. To every quart of vinegar allow half an ounce of +mace, half an ounce of sliced ginger, half an ounce of whole black +pepper, six cloves, a few sprigs of tarragon, and half a clove of +garlic. + +Boil the vinegar with these ingredients for five minutes, and then pour +it hot on the pickles. Tie them up carefully. They may be used in a +week. + +The generality of French pickles, are made in a manner similar to those +of England and America. + + +FINE COLOGNE WATER. + +Procure at an apothecary's the following oils and have them all put into +the same phial:--Oil of lemon, 2 drams; oil of rosemary, 2 drams; oil of +lavender, 1 dram; oil of bergamot, 2 drams; oil of cinnamon, 10 drops; +oil of cloves, 10 drops; oil of roses, 2 drops; tincture of musk, 8 +drops. + +Put 2 pint of highly rectified spirits of wine into a bottle, and pour +the oils into it. Shake it hard for a few minutes, having corked it +tightly. It will be fit for immediate use, but it improves by keeping. + +If you wish it stronger, double the quantity of all the oils, but have +only a pint of spirits of wine. + + +THE END. + + + + +Transcriber's Note + + +The following typographical errors were corrected: + + Page Error + v Green Peas Soup ib changed to Green Peas Soup ib. + v Garlic Butter ib changed to Garlic Butter ib. + vi Hazlenut changed to Hazelnut + viii French Cakes changed to French Paste + ix Chocolate Drops ib changed to Chocolate Drops ib. + 16 our pounds changed to four pounds + 21 marmelade changed to marmalade + 31 rolled in flour changed to rolled in flour, + 31 en minutes changed to ten minutes + 32 SIRLOIN OF BEEF changed to SIRLOIN OF BEEF. + 33 hem round changed to them round + 34 pen-knife, changed to pen-knife. + 67 same manner changed to same manner. + 70 of brandy changed to of brandy. + 73 warm water changed to warm water. + 82 Ham Omelet changed to Ham Omelet. + 92 over its inside changed to over its inside. + 103 sieve or cullender changed to sieve or cullender. + 110 through the sieve, changed to through the sieve. + +The following words were inconsistently spelled or hyphenated. + + bread-crumbs / breadcrumbs + sauce-pan / saucepan + sponge-cake / spunge-cake + spongy / spungy + sweet-herbs / sweet herbs + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Domestic French Cookery, 4th ed., by Sulpice Barue + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DOMESTIC FRENCH COOKERY, 4TH ED. *** + +***** This file should be named 34837.txt or 34837.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/4/8/3/34837/ + +Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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