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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Century Cook Book, by Mary Ronald
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Century Cook Book
+
+Author: Mary Ronald
+
+Release Date: January 2, 2011 [EBook #34822]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CENTURY COOK BOOK ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note
+
+Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A list of corrections
+is found at the end of the text. Inconsistencies in spelling and
+hyphenation have been maintained. A list of inconsistently spelled
+and hyphenated words is found at the end of the text. Oe ligatures
+have been expanded. Illustrations have been moved and placed near
+the paragraph that they illustrate whenever possible
+
+
+
+
+
+THE CENTURY COOK BOOK
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: SQUARE-CORNERED DINNER-TABLE WITH FOURTEEN COVERS.
+DECORATIONS IN WHITE. (SEE PAGE 18.)]
+
+
+
+
+ THE
+ CENTURY COOK BOOK
+
+
+ BY
+
+ Mary Ronald
+
+
+ _This book contains directions for cooking in its various branches,
+ from the simplest forms to high-class dishes and ornamental pieces;
+ a group of New England dishes furnished by Susan Coolidge; and a few
+ receipts of distinctively Southern dishes. It gives also the etiquette
+ of dinner entertainments--how to serve dinners--table decorations,
+ and many items relative to household affairs._
+
+
+ "NOW GOOD DIGESTION WAIT ON APPETITE
+ AND HEALTH ON BOTH"
+ --_Macbeth_
+
+
+ [Illustration]
+
+
+ NEW YORK
+ THE CENTURY CO.
+ 1901
+
+
+
+
+ Copyright, 1895, by
+ THE CENTURY CO.
+
+
+ THE DEVINNE PRESS.
+
+
+
+
+_"To be a good cook means the knowledge of all fruits, herbs, balms and
+spices, and of all that is healing and sweet in field and groves, and
+savory in meats; means carefulness, inventiveness, watchfulness,
+willingness and readiness of appliance. It means the economy of your
+great-grandmothers and the science of modern chemists. It means much
+tasting and no wasting. It means English thoroughness, French art and
+Arabian hospitality. It means, in fine, that you are to be perfectly and
+always ladies (loaf-givers) and are to see that every one has something
+nice to eat."_--RUSKIN.
+
+
+
+
+_APHORISMS--BRILLAT-SAVARIN._
+
+
+_Les animaux se repaissent; l'homme mange; l'homme d'esprit seul sait
+manger._
+
+_Dis moi ce que tu manges, je te dirai ce que tu es._
+
+_Le Createur, en obligeant l'homme a manger pour vivre, l'y invite par
+l'appetit et l'en recompense par le plaisir._
+
+_La table est le seul endroit ou l'on ne s'ennuie jamais pendant la
+premiere heure._
+
+_La decouverte d'un mets nouveau fait plus pour le bonheur du genre
+humain que la decouverte d'une etoile._
+
+_L'ordre des comestibles est des plus substantiels aux plus legers._
+
+_L'ordre des boissons est des plus temperees aux plus fumeuses et aux
+plus parfumees._
+
+_On devient cuisinier mais on nait rotisseur._
+
+_Attendre trop longtemps un convive retardataire est un manque d'egards
+pour tous ceux qui sont present._
+
+_Celui qui recoit ses amis, et ne donne aucun soin personnel au repas
+qui leur est prepare, n'est pas digne d'avoir des amis._
+
+_La maitresse de la maison doit toujours s'assurer que le cafe est
+excellent, et le maitre, que les liqueurs sont de premier choix._
+
+
+
+
+TIME TABLE.
+
+
+BOILING.
+
+MEATS.
+ Time.
+ Mutton per pound 15 minutes.
+ Potted Beef " " 30 to 35 min.
+ Corned Beef " " 30 minutes.
+ Ham " " 18 to 20 min.
+ Turkey " " 15 minutes.
+ Chicken " " 15 "
+ Fowl " " 20 to 30 min.
+ Tripe " " 3 to 5 hours.
+
+
+FISH.
+ Time.
+ Codfish per pound 6 minutes.
+ Haddock " " 6 "
+ Halibut " " 15 "
+ Blue " " 10 "
+ Bass " " 10 "
+ Salmon " " 10 to 15 min.
+ Small Fish " " 6 minutes.
+
+ Lobster 30 to 40 min.
+
+
+VEGETABLES.
+
+ Potatoes 20 to 30 min.
+ Asparagus 20 to 25 "
+ Peas 15 to 20 "
+ String Beans 20 to 30 "
+ Lima " 30 to 40 "
+ Spinach 15 to 20 "
+ Turnips 30 minutes.
+ Beets 30 min. or more.
+ Cabbage 20 "
+ Cauliflower 20 "
+ Brussels Sprouts 10 to 15 min.
+ Onions 30 to 40 "
+ Parsnips 30 to 40 "
+ Green Corn 20 to 25 "
+
+ Macaroni 20 minutes.
+ Rice 15 to 20 min.
+
+
+BAKING.
+
+MEATS.
+ Time
+ Beef, ribs, rare per pound, 8 to 10 min.
+ " " well done " 12 to 15 "
+ " " boned & rolled " 12 to 15 "
+ Round of Beef " 12 to 15 "
+ Mutton, leg, rare " 10 minutes.
+ " " well done " 15 "
+ " loin, rare " 8 "
+ " shoulder, stuffed " 15 "
+ " saddle, rare " 9 "
+ Lamb, well done " 15 "
+ Veal, " " " 18 to 20 min.
+ Pork, " " " 20 minutes.
+ Venison, rare " 10 "
+ Chicken " 15 "
+ Goose " 18 "
+ Fillet, hot oven 30 minutes.
+ Braised Meats 3 to 4 hours.
+ Liver, whole 2 hours.
+ Turkey, 8 lbs 1-3/4 "
+ " very large 3 "
+ Birds, small, hot oven 15 to 20 min.
+ Ducks, tame 45 minutes.
+ " wild, very hot oven 15 "
+ Partridge 35 to 40 min.
+ Grouse 20 to 25 "
+
+
+FISH.
+ Time.
+ Large Fish 1 hour, about.
+ Small " 20 to 30 min.
+
+ Time.
+ Bread 1 hour.
+ Biscuits 20 minutes.
+ Cake 20 to 45 min.
+ Custards, very slow oven 1 hour.
+
+
+BROILING.
+ Time.
+ Steak, 1 inch thick 8 to 10 min.
+ " 1-1/2 " " 10 to 15 "
+ Mutton Chops, French 8 minutes.
+ " " English 10 "
+ Spring Chicken 20 "
+ Quail 8 to 10 min.
+ Grouse 15 minutes.
+ Squabs 10 to 15 min.
+ Shad, Bluefish, Trout 15 to 25 "
+ Small Fish 5 to 10 "
+
+
+
+
+WEIGHTS AND MEASURES
+
+ 4 gills = 1 pint.
+ 2 pints = 1 quart.
+ 4 quarts = 1 gallon.
+ 16 ounces = 1 pound.
+
+ 1/2 kitchen cupful = 1 gill.
+ 1 kitchen cupful = 1/2 pint or 2 gills.
+ 4 kitchen cupfuls = 1 quart.
+
+ 2 cupfuls of granulated sugar } = 1 pound.
+ 2-1/2 cupfuls of powdered sugar }
+
+ 1 heaping tablespoonful of sugar = 1 ounce.
+ 1 heaping tablespoonful of butter } = 2 oz. or 1/4 cupful.
+ Butter size of an egg }
+ 1 cupful of butter = 1/2 pound.
+ 4 cupfuls of flour } = 1 pound.
+ 1 heaping quart }
+ 8 round tablespoonfuls of dry material = 1 cupful.
+ 16 tablespoonfuls of liquid = 1 cupful.
+
+
+PROPORTIONS
+
+ 5 to 8 eggs to 1 quart of milk for custards.
+ 3 to 4 eggs to 1 pint of milk for custards.
+ 1 saltspoonful of salt to 1 quart of milk for custards.
+ 1 teaspoonful of vanilla to 1 quart of milk for custards.
+ 2 ounces of gelatine to 1-3/4 quarts of liquid.
+ 4 heaping tablespoonfuls of cornstarch to 1 quart of milk.
+ 3 heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-powder to 1 quart of flour.
+ 1 even teaspoonful of baking-powder to 1 cupful of flour.
+ 1 teaspoonful of soda to 1 pint of sour milk.
+ 1 teaspoonful of soda to 1/2 pint of molasses.
+ 1 teaspoonful of baking-powder is the equivalent of 1/2 teaspoonful
+ of soda and 1 teaspoonful of cream of tartar.
+
+ For other proportions, see page 340.
+ For measuring, see page 77.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+In France various honors are awarded to cooks. Accomplished _chefs de
+cuisine_ are by compliment called _cordon-bleu_, which is an ancient and
+princely order. A successful culinary production takes the name of the
+inventor, and by it his fame often lasts longer than that of many men
+who have achieved positions in the learned professions. Cooking is there
+esteemed a service of especial merit, hence France ranks all nations in
+gastronomy.
+
+Although definite honors are not conferred on cooks elsewhere, good
+cooking is everywhere appreciated, and there is no reason why it should
+not be the rule instead of the exception. In large establishments it may
+be said to prevail, but in many moderate households the daily fare is of
+a quality which satisfies no other sense than that of hunger, the
+hygienic requirements and esthetic possibilities being quite unknown or
+disregarded. This is what Savarin designates as feeding, in
+contradistinction to dining.
+
+The author believes that the women of to-day, because of their higher
+education, have a better understanding of domestic duties; that hygiene,
+economy, system, and methods are better understood and more generally
+practised. Children are not only more sensibly clothed, but they are
+more wholesomely fed, and households are directed with more intelligent
+care.
+
+It is hoped that this book will inculcate a desire to learn the simple
+principles of cooking for the benefits which such knowledge will give,
+and that it will be of material assistance to any woman who wishes to
+establish and maintain a well-ordered cuisine. Receipts are given for
+simple and inexpensive as well as elaborate and costly dishes, and they
+are intended to be of use to the inexperienced as well as to the trained
+cook. The rules are given in precise language, with definite measurement
+and time, so that no supervision by the mistress will be required for
+any receipt given the cook.
+
+At the head of each chapter are given the general rules for the dishes
+included in that class. Economy, practicability, and the resources of
+the average kitchen have been constantly borne in mind.
+
+The illustrations, it is believed, will aid materially in serving
+dishes, as they complete and demonstrate the receipts. Many of them are
+given to attract attention to very simple dishes, which might be
+selected as suited to one's convenience, but which might otherwise be
+overlooked in a hasty perusal of the text. The pictures are from
+photographs of dishes, many of which are not too difficult for a novice
+to undertake.
+
+The author has fortunately been able to secure from Susan Coolidge a
+number of receipts of New England dishes; also a few distinctively
+Southern dishes from an equally experienced Southern housekeeper. These,
+she hopes, will enable many who have strayed from home to enjoy again
+the dishes associated with other times and places.
+
+Much care has been taken to give a complete alphabetical index, so that
+anything in the book can be quickly found, even if the ordinary
+classification is not understood.
+
+The chapters on etiquette, serving, etc., are meant to aid those young
+housekeepers who, from lack of observation or experience, find
+themselves at a loss to remember small details when the responsibility
+of an entertainment falls upon them for the first time.
+
+The author, in speaking of this book to friends, has had various
+questions asked and suggestions given, by which she has endeavored to
+profit. Some of the questions have been the following:
+
+"Have you given receipts suitable for a family of two or three?"
+
+"Have you given expedients, so if articles called for in the receipts
+are not at hand others may be substituted?"
+
+"Is your book only for rich people?"
+
+"Is it not a mistake to use French names, which many do not understand?"
+etc., etc.
+
+In deference to the last suggestion, she has explained the meaning of
+certain classes of dishes known only by the French names, and which
+would lose character if translated. A souffle, for instance, has no
+special significance when called "inflated," but the word souffle
+defines the class of dishes which are inflated, and is so generally
+understood that it is almost an Anglicized word.
+
+The terms Souffles, Pates, Timbales, Hors-d'oeuvres, Entrees, etc., are
+as distinctive as Stews, Hashes, Creams, etc.; hence there seems no
+other way than to learn the culinary nomenclature as one partakes of the
+dishes.
+
+The author strongly urges the trial of new dishes, and breaking away
+from the routine of habit. The preparation of so-called fancy dishes is
+very simple. A little attention given to ornamentation and garnishing,
+making dishes attractive in appearance as well as taste, will raise the
+standard of cooking without necessarily increasing the expense.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+PART I
+
+ PAGE
+ DINNER-GIVING AND THE ETIQUETTE OF DINNERS 1
+ MANNER OF SERVING DINNERS 10
+ LAYING THE TABLE 13
+ TABLE DECORATIONS 17
+ COURSES 24
+ THE HOME DINNER 27
+ SERVING THE INFORMAL DINNER 29
+ LUNCHEON 31
+ THE FIVE O'CLOCK TEA 33
+ A HOMILY ON COOKING 35
+ COOKING AS A PLEASURE AND AN ACCOMPLISHMENT 38
+ TO TRAIN A GREEN COOK 40
+ ECONOMICAL LIVING 44
+ WASTEFULNESS 50
+ HOW TO UTILIZE WHAT SOME COOKS THROW AWAY 51
+ EMERGENCIES 55
+ THINGS TO REMEMBER 58
+ CARE OF UTENSILS 61
+
+PART II
+
+ CHAPTER
+ I METHODS OF COOKING EXPLAINED 67
+ II SOUPS 84
+ III FISH 112
+ IV MEATS 145
+ V POULTRY AND GAME 179
+ VI VEGETABLES 200
+ { FARINACEOUS FOODS USED AS VEGETABLES 222
+ VII { MACARONI 224
+ { CEREALS 227
+ VIII A GROUP OF RECEIPTS FROM A NEW ENGLAND KITCHEN 229
+ { DISTINCTIVELY SOUTHERN DISHES 246
+ IX { VERY INEXPENSIVE DISHES 249
+ { MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS 257
+ X EGGS 261
+ XI SAUCES 275
+ { ENTREES 292
+ XII { TERRAPIN, FROGS' LEGS 311
+ { MUSHROOMS 314
+ XIII ASPIC JELLY, FANCY MOLDING, SUPPORTS 321
+ XIV CHAFING-DISH RECEIPTS 329
+ XV BREAD 338
+ XVI { SANDWICHES AND CANAPES 364
+ { CHEESE AND CHEESE DISHES 369
+ XVII SALADS 374
+ XVIII COLD DESSERTS 386
+ XIX { HOT DESSERTS 421
+ { PUDDING SAUCES 444
+ XX { PIES 450
+ { PUFF PASTE 457
+ XXI { CAKE 462
+ { ICING AND DECORATING CAKES 483
+ XXII ICE-CREAMS, WATER-ICES, PARFAITS, MOUSSES, PUNCHES 488
+ XXIII BOILING SUGAR AND MAKING CANDIES 510
+ XXIV FRUITS, COOKED AND FRESH 529
+ XXV COMPOTES, PRESERVING AND CANNING, PICKLES 535
+ XXVI BEVERAGES 548
+ XXVII WINES 560
+
+
+
+
+THE CENTURY COOK BOOK
+
+
+
+
+THE CENTURY COOK BOOK
+
+
+PART I
+
+DINNER-GIVING AND THE ETIQUETTE OF DINNERS
+
+ "To feed were best at home;
+ From thence, the sauce to meat is ceremony,
+ Meeting were bare without it."--_Shakspere_
+
+
+A dinner party may be considered as holding the highest rank
+among entertainments. In no other social function is etiquette
+so strictly observed. There are prescribed rules for the
+form of the invitation, the manner of assigning each guest
+his place at the table, the manner of serving the dinner,
+etc.; and when these rules are followed there need be no
+embarrassments.
+
+ [Sidenote: The Company.]
+
+It should always be remembered that the social part of the
+entertainment is on a higher plane than the gastronomic one,
+though the latter must by no means be slighted. A sentiment
+expressed by the wit who said, "A fig for your bill of fare,
+give me a bill of your company," is generally felt, and a
+hostess should bring together only such people as she believes
+will be mutually agreeable.
+
+The idea, given by Goldsmith in his "Retaliation," of
+looking upon one's friends as so many pleasant dishes, is
+offered as a suggestion. He says:
+
+ If our landlord supplies us with beef and with fish,
+ Let each guest bring himself, and he brings the best dish:
+ Our Dean shall be venison, just fresh from the plains;
+ Our Burke shall be tongue, with a garnish of brains;
+ Our Will shall be wild fowl of excellent flavour,
+ And Dick with his pepper shall heighten the savour;
+ Our Cumberland's sweetbread its place shall obtain,
+ And Douglas is pudding, substantial and plain;
+ Our Garrick's a salad, for in him we see
+ Oil, vinegar, sugar, and saltness agree:...
+ At a dinner so various--at such a repast,
+ Who'd not be a glutton, and stick to the last?
+
+ [Sidenote: The Host and Hostess.]
+
+The hostess should give her instructions for the details of
+the entertainment so explicitly that on the arrival of the
+guests she will have no care other than their pleasure.
+
+If she is nervous, has wandering eyes, or shows constraint,
+it affects sensibly the ease of her guests. The spirit of
+pleasure is infectious, and upon the demeanor of the hosts
+the success of the evening largely depends. Much tact may be
+shown in placing the right people together at the table. If
+one is a great talker let the other be a good listener; if
+one is dogmatic let the other be without positive views, and
+so on; for as every one is happiest when appearing well, it
+is wise to consider the idiosyncrasies of the guests.
+
+'T is a great point in a gallery how you hang your pictures;
+and not less in society how you seat your party.
+
+ [Sidenote: The Guests.]
+
+The part of the hosts is thus well defined; but the guests, too,
+have their obligations, and in recognition of the compliment
+of being included in an entertainment where the number of
+guests is limited to very few, each one should make exertion
+to be agreeable, as a dull dinner companion is a recognized
+misfortune. At a dinner there is time, not given at most
+other forms of entertainment, for rational and sustained
+conversation, and this may be turned to durance vile if one
+victimizes by egotism or caprice the person who without
+power of withdrawal is assigned to his or her society for
+perhaps two hours or more. Also, if one finds oneself neighbor
+to some person for whom one has a personal antipathy, it
+must not be allowed to interfere with the general pleasure;
+and should such a situation occur, there is nothing to do
+but to make the best of it, and conceal from the hostess
+the mistake she has unwittingly made--
+
+ And do as adversaries do in law,
+ Strive mightily, but eat and drink as friends.
+
+Under these circumstances the discovery may possibly be
+made that an unfriendly person is more agreeable than was
+supposed, and a pleasanter relationship may be established.
+
+ [Sidenote: Time.]
+
+Two hours is the extreme limit of time that should be given to
+a dinner; one hour and a quarter, or a half, is preferable.
+Eight courses served quickly, but without seeming haste,
+require as much time as most people can sit at the table
+without fatigue. Last impressions are as enduring as first
+ones, so it is important not to surfeit, for
+
+ When fatigue enters into so-called pleasure, failure begins.
+
+Judgment shown in combination of dishes, the perfection of
+their preparation, careful serving, and taste in adornment,
+are elements of refinement that far outweigh quantity and
+ostentation.
+
+ [Sidenote: Temperature.]
+
+The temperature and ventilation of the dining-room should
+be given careful attention. The best of spirits and the
+brightest wit will flag in an overheated, ill-ventilated
+room. It is not always easy to maintain a fresh atmosphere
+where as many guests are seated as the size of the room
+permits, but at least the room can be well aired before the
+dinner is served. Windows opened a very little from both
+the top and bottom in an adjoining room, with a careful
+adjustment of screens to protect those who are sensitive to
+drafts, will do much to keep the air fresh, and will have a
+sensible effect upon the comfort and mental activity of the
+company.
+
+ [Sidenote: The Invitation.]
+
+Invitations are sometimes sent out a month or three weeks in
+advance, but ordinarily two weeks is sufficient time to
+secure the guests one wishes to entertain. Courtesy requires
+a dinner invitation to be answered at once, certainly within
+twelve hours, but better in less time. This enables the
+hostess to fill the vacancy in case the invitation is
+declined. Unconventional people are sometimes unmindful of
+this obligation, but as a rule those who are accustomed to
+entertaining recognize the importance of a prompt reply, and
+answer a dinner invitation immediately.
+
+It is well, when convenient, to send the invitation as well
+as the reply by hand, so that there may be no uncertainty of
+prompt delivery; to send either of them by post is, however,
+permissible.
+
+The answer should be definite, and where a man and his wife
+are invited, if one of them is unable to accept, the invitation
+should be declined for both. An invitation should be precise
+in expression, therefore the prescribed form given below
+should be exactly followed. It does not belong to the order
+of social notes; it is simply a formal invitation, and an
+acceptance should be of the same character. Any deviation
+from the prescribed form is uncalled for and likely to cause
+criticism. In declining the invitation, however, it is
+considered more gracious to answer the formal note informally,
+and, by stating the reason, show that the regret is not
+merely a perfunctory expression.
+
+Verbal invitations or replies should never be given for
+formal entertainments. R. S. V. P. should not be put on a
+dinner invitation. Every well-bred person knows an answer is
+necessary, and it is a reflection upon good manners to assume
+that no reply would be given if the request for it were
+omitted.
+
+It is important also that the reply should repeat, in the
+same words as the invitation, the date and hour of the
+dinner, so, if any mistake has inadvertently been made, it
+may be corrected, thus establishing an exact understanding.
+
+A dinner engagement is the most exacting of any social
+obligation, and no greater discourtesy can be shown than to
+break it except for serious cause.
+
+ [Sidenote: Form of Invitation.]
+
+ _Mr. and Mrs. James J. James
+ request the pleasure of
+ Mr. and Mrs. Smith's
+ company at dinner, on Monday,
+ December twenty-third, at
+ eight o'clock._
+
+ _99 West A Street,_
+ _Dec. 1st._
+
+Envelop addressed to Mrs. John B. Smith.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+ [Sidenote: Reply.]
+
+ _Mr. and Mrs. John B. Smith
+ accept with pleasure
+ Mr. and Mrs. James's
+ kind invitation to dinner on
+ Monday, December twenty-third,
+ at eight o'clock._
+
+ _66 West B Street,_
+ _Dec. 1st._
+
+Envelop addressed to Mrs. James J. James.
+
+ _Mr. and Mrs. John B. Smith
+ regret that they are unable to accept
+ Mr. and Mrs. James's
+ kind invitation to dinner on
+ Monday, December twenty-third,
+ at eight o'clock._
+
+ _66 West B Street,_
+ _Dec. 1st._
+
+ OR,
+
+ _Mr. and Mrs. John B. Smith
+ regret that owing to a previous
+ engagement they are unable to accept
+ Mr. and Mrs. James's
+ kind invitation to dinner on
+ Monday, December twenty-third,
+ at eight o'clock._
+
+ _66 West B Street,_
+ _Dec. 1st._
+
+ * * * * *
+
+Where an invitation is meant to be informal, a social form of
+note with formal phraseology is often sent, thus:
+
+ _My dear Mrs. Smith_:
+
+ _Will you and Mr. Smith dine with us informally on Thursday
+ evening, December twenty-third, at eight o'clock?_
+
+ _Sincerely yours_,
+ _Mary James._
+
+ _99 West A Street,_
+ _Dec. 1st._
+
+This form of invitation is sometimes misleading to strangers,
+as the word "informal" is open to different interpretations.
+
+These dinners are generally quite as formal as the others,
+and require the same toilet.
+
+A woman's dinner dress should be decollete, and for a man
+evening dress is always _de rigueur_.
+
+ [Sidenote: Dress.]
+
+The butler wears a dress suit with white tie. The footman, or
+second man, wears the livery of the family, or, in default
+of that, a coat of dark color, with brass buttons, and a
+bright-colored striped waistcoat.
+
+The dining-room maid wears a plain black dress, a white apron
+that covers completely the front of her skirt, a linen collar
+and deep cuffs, and a small white cap, with or without strings,
+but no crown. Everything in a well-ordered household is
+supposed to be clean, including the hands of the domestics,
+and the use of white gloves is not permissible. First-class
+butlers and footmen do not wear mustaches.
+
+ [Sidenote: Arrival.]
+
+Guests are expected at the hour mentioned in the invitation,
+and should be as near that time as possible. In large cities,
+where distances are great and exact time difficult to calculate,
+a little grace is allowed, but the hostess is not expected
+to wait longer than fifteen minutes for a tardy guest. It
+is considered a breach of etiquette to be late, and the
+assumption is, when this occurs, that the delay is unavoidable
+and will be indefinite, and so the other guests should not be
+inconvenienced.
+
+At large dinners a gentleman finds in the dressing-room, or a
+servant passes to him before he enters the drawing-room, a
+tray holding small addressed envelops. He selects the one
+bearing his own name, and finds on an inclosed card the name
+of the lady he is to take to the table. The letter R or L in
+the corner of the card denotes whether he will find his place
+on the right or left of the table from the entrance. If he
+does not know the lady, he should tell the hostess, so that
+he may be presented to her. The hostess stands near the door
+to receive her guests, and such introductions follow as can
+conveniently be made. If general introductions are omitted,
+guests are expected to act as though acquainted, and speak to
+whomever they may be near. This rule holds good for all
+entertainments in some countries, but Americans continue
+a reserve except at dinners, where barriers to ease and
+pleasure must not exist. The hostess does not knowingly bring
+together people who object to meet one another, but in such
+an event the acquaintanceship need not extend beyond the
+evening, and good breeding requires a courteous recognition
+of the friends of the hostess while under her roof.
+
+ [Sidenote: Announcement.]
+
+The butler keeps count of the arrival of expected guests, and
+announces dinner shortly after all are in the drawing-room.
+In case of a tardy guest he waits for the hostess to order
+the dinner served. He then enters the room, and, looking at
+the host or hostess, says, "Dinner is served," or "Madam is
+served," or simply bows to the hostess.
+
+ [Sidenote: Precedence.]
+
+The host then offers his right arm to the lady who is to sit
+at his right, and leads the way into the dining-room; the
+other couples follow in any order that is convenient. The
+hostess, with the gentleman she honors with the seat at
+her right, are the last to leave the drawing-room. If a
+distinguished man is present, it is to him this courtesy is
+shown. Except in official and diplomatic circles, there is no
+other rule of precedence. If the President of the United
+States or a royal personage were being entertained, the
+hostess with this dignitary would then precede the others.
+
+At each cover is laid a card on which is distinctly written
+the name of the person who is to occupy that place. Confusion
+is thus avoided in seating the guests. It has been a fashion
+to have these cards artistic and elaborate in design, but
+at present plain gilt-edged cards stamped with the family
+crest or monogram are more generally used.
+
+ [Sidenote: Departure.]
+
+When the dinner is finished, the gentlemen return to the
+drawing-room with the ladies, and then withdraw to the
+smoking-room for half an hour. Shortly after their return to
+the drawing-room the guests take their leave. If guests of
+honor are present, they are the first to go.
+
+
+
+
+MANNER OF SERVING DINNERS
+
+
+The custom of serving dinner _a la Russe_ (dishes passed) has
+supplanted the form known as the English style, where the
+joints are carved on the table. This is for good reason, as
+the host cannot well fulfil his social part if he has to do
+the carving; therefore, unless on very informal occasions,
+when the number of servants may be insufficient, the carving
+is done on the side-table, or the garnished dishes are cut in
+the kitchen. The portions, whether carved or otherwise, are
+placed on dishes to be passed, and should be so arranged that
+each guest may remove a part easily and without destroying the
+symmetry of the whole. This need not preclude attractive
+garnishing, but such complicated constructions as are sometimes
+seen, which embarrass one to find how to break them, should be
+avoided.
+
+Sometimes a dish is placed on the table to be shown, and
+then removed to be served.
+
+ [Sidenote: Passing the Dishes.]
+
+The dishes are presented on the left side. Those of the
+first course are passed first to the lady sitting on the
+right of the host, and then in regular order to the right
+around the table. The dishes of each following course are
+started at some distance from the place where the preceding
+one was presented. In this way the same person is not left
+always to be served last.
+
+ [Sidenote: Number of Servants.]
+
+At least one servant is needed for every six persons,
+otherwise the service will be slow and tedious, and the
+portion placed on one's plate becomes cold before the
+accompaniments of sauce or vegetable can be passed.
+
+Many dishes may be garnished with the vegetable or sauce,
+thus obviating in a measure this difficulty. For large dinners
+two or more dishes should be arranged to pass on opposite
+sides of the table, so that every one may be served at about
+the same time. Plates, vegetable, and other large dishes are
+held in the hand of the servant. Small dishes, like hors
+d'oeuvres, bonbon dishes, etc., are passed on a tray.
+
+ [Sidenote: Wines.]
+
+When the wines are served, the servant should name the wine
+offered, so that it may be refused if not wanted; the glasses
+should not be filled entirely full.
+
+ [Sidenote: Plates.]
+
+When a plate is removed it should be immediately replaced by
+another one holding a fork or any piece of silver or cutlery
+which is needed for the next course.
+
+Plates should be removed with the left and replaced with the
+right hand.
+
+Care should be taken that plates for the hot dishes are
+warm, but not hot, and that for the cold dishes they are not
+lukewarm.
+
+The plate holding the shell-fish is placed upon the one
+already on the table; this under plate is used also to hold
+the soup plate, but double plates are not again used until
+the end of the dinner, when the dessert plate holding the
+finger-bowl plate is put on. In case a hot sweet dish is
+served, the double plates, being intended for ices, fruits,
+and bonbons, are not put on until after that course. Silver
+serving-dishes are much used; lacking these, all the china
+used in the same course should match when possible.
+
+ [Sidenote: China.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Care of China.]
+
+A different set of plates may be used with each course. In the
+matter of china the greatest latitude of taste and expense is
+possible, some china being more valuable than its weight in
+silver. When handsome china is being used, which demands great
+care in handling, it is well to have a table in the pantry
+reserved for its use, where it can be carefully piled and left
+until the following morning to be washed. With daylight and
+ample time, it can be given the care it might not receive if
+washed after the fatigue and late hours of a long dinner. This
+need not necessarily mean leaving a disordered pantry for the
+night, although that would be of less consequence than the
+extra risk of having valuable china nicked or broken. The same
+care is recommended for handsome glass.
+
+ [Sidenote: Clearing the Table.]
+
+Before the dessert is served, all the plates, the small
+silver, the salt- and pepper-boxes, the hors d'oeuvres,
+and such glasses as will not be again used are removed; the
+crumbs are then taken off, a silver crumb knife and a plate
+being used for this purpose. The dessert and finger-bowl
+plates are then put on. Under the finger-bowl is placed a
+small fancy doily, and beside it on the same plate such
+small silver as will be needed. If peaches, or any fruit
+which will stain, are to be served, a fruit doily should
+also be given at this time and laid beside the place. The
+finger-bowl should be filled one third with water, and have
+a thin slice of lemon, a scented leaf, or a flower floating
+in it.
+
+ [Sidenote: The Service.]
+
+The service should be entirely noiseless, and the machinery
+of the household as invisible as possible. There should be
+no rattling of china or silver, no creaking boots, or heavy
+tread, or audible speech among the servants.
+
+ [Sidenote: Ordering the Dinner.]
+
+When entertaining one should not attempt more than one is sure
+of being able to attain, bearing in mind the capabilities of
+the cook and the range, and remembering that the quality of
+the dishes rather than the number of them is what pleases.
+Experiments should be made at times when failure is of less
+consequence. In arranging the menu, each course should be in
+pleasing contrast to the preceding one, and in the same course
+only such dishes should be served as go well together. Butter
+is not served at dinner.
+
+
+
+
+LAYING THE TABLE
+
+
+ [Sidenote: The Table.]
+
+A round or square table five feet across is a convenient size
+for ordinary use, giving ample room for six people, and
+leaving space for decoration. Large round tops are made to fit
+over extension-tables, which will seat from twelve to twenty
+or more people; and when the size of the room will permit,
+this is the pleasantest form of table for entertainments, and
+best lends itself to decorative effects, giving to each person
+a complete picture of the table and of the company assembled.
+
+ [Sidenote: The Linen.]
+
+A thick cotton material, which is made for the purpose, for
+interlining between table and cloth, is the first requisite in
+laying the table, and should always be used. It protects the
+polished surface of the table from injury, gives a more
+brilliant whiteness to the cloth, and prevents any noise when
+placing the china and silver upon the table. The linen should
+be as fine as the purse will allow. Handsome linen will give
+elegance to a table where ornamentation is very simple. It
+should be ironed without starch, or with a very little if it
+is not sufficiently heavy to take polish without it. It
+should be folded perfectly square, so that the lines will be
+straight, and should be of spotless and dazzling whiteness.
+With this as a basis, there will be no difficulty in making
+an attractive table.
+
+In the way of linen, much taste may be shown in the ornamental
+pieces used in the center of the table. These may be of any
+shape or size desired, from a small square to a long scarf.
+They may be of embroidered linen, drawn-work, lace, plain
+silk or satin; but wash materials are preferable, and effects
+of color, when desired, can be obtained in the embroidery
+or linings. The attractiveness of these pieces depends on
+their daintiness. The fashion of a center-piece of linen
+is, however, a passing one, as they are not at present so
+generally used.
+
+ [Sidenote: The order of laying the Table.]
+
+After the interlining has been spread, the cloth should be
+laid with great care, making the center fold run perfectly
+straight with the room, and the cross fold again exactly
+divide the table at right angles to the other crease. By these
+straight lines, everything else is gaged. The fancy linen
+piece is next laid, and its center must coincide with that of
+the cloth. If the piece is square, it sometimes has better
+effect to place the points on the long lines of the cloth,
+giving it a diamond shape; this, however, is a matter of
+fancy. The center ornament is then placed on the exact point
+where the folds of the cloth cross in the middle of the table.
+The plates are next put in position, attention being given to
+the decoration on the china, if it be a monogram that it is
+right side up, if flowers that they are in natural position,
+etc. Where there are an uneven number of covers it is better
+to place the plates at equal distances around the table,
+without regard to the place of the hostess being opposite to
+that of the host. In other cases, the plates at the head and
+foot of the table, and those on the sides, should be directly
+opposite each other. Under no circumstances must the plates be
+omitted. On the left of the plates place the forks; three or
+four may be put on and laid in the order in which they will be
+used. Three knives (one of them being a silver knife for the
+fish course) and the oyster fork are placed on the right of
+the plate; the soup spoon may go in front of the plate or with
+the knives on the right; the bowls of the forks and spoons
+should be right side up, the edges of the knives turned toward
+the plate.
+
+[Illustration: DIAGRAM OF TABLE.
+
+ A. Plates.
+ B. Plant, Flowers, Fruit, Lamp, or ornamental piece of silver.
+ C. Compotiers, holding cakes, fruit, or flowers.
+ D. Candlesticks or Candelabra.
+ E. Salt and Pepper Boxes.
+ F. Water and Wine Glasses.
+ G. Bonbons, or Hors d'OEuvres, or Carafes.
+ H. Bonbons, or Hors d'OEuvres.]
+
+[Illustration: DETAIL OF ONE COVER.]
+
+ [Sidenote: The Decoration.]
+
+After the plates and small silver and cutlery are in position,
+the decorating of the table should proceed as far as possible.
+The position for everything can be best determined after the
+plates are laid. The perishable articles, that cannot be put
+on until the last moment, can usually have their position
+located by the compotiers or the bonbon dishes which will hold
+them. Uniformity is not required in having two or four of
+these dishes to match, but such ornamental holders as are used
+must be placed in uniform positions, so as to balance and
+harmonize. Any deviation from this rule, or neglect of the
+small details in placing the table furniture, will give the
+effect of a disordered table.
+
+ [Sidenote: Lights.]
+
+The candlesticks, or candelabra, as the case may be, should be
+so placed as not to obstruct the views across the table. This
+may be determined by two persons taking seats on opposite
+sides of the table, viewing each other from different places,
+and moving the candelabra until the right position is found,
+which usually will not be more than an inch or two either way.
+It is well to give attention to this matter, as comfort is
+much disturbed and conversation interrupted from shutting out
+by this kind of screen the different persons at the table.
+Before being placed on the table candles should be fitted
+firmly and straight in their sockets, be lighted for a few
+minutes, and then the wicks should be cut and the shades
+fitted squarely upon the holders. This will prevent smoking,
+dripping and other annoyances that may occur if it is not
+done. Shade-holders that fit the top of the candle are very
+objectionable and dangerous, but those that clasp the candle
+below the heated part give little trouble.
+
+Salt- and pepper-boxes are placed at the corners of the table,
+or within easy reach of every two people if more than four are
+used. If carafes are used the same rule is observed. After the
+decoration of the table is completed as far as possible, the
+glasses are put on. There is danger of their being broken if
+put on before. They are placed in uniform groups at the right
+of the plates: the water glass nearest the plate, and the
+wine-glass to be first used nearest the edge of the table.
+Port and Madeira glasses are not put on until the time for
+serving those wines, which is at the end of the dinner.
+
+The napkin, folded in triangular shape, the embroidered
+monogram on top, is laid on the plate, and a piece of bread
+cut two inches long and one and a half inches thick, or more
+generally a dinner roll, is laid in the fold, but left in
+full sight, so that it will not be shaken on to the floor
+when the napkin is lifted.
+
+ [Sidenote: The Sideboard.]
+
+Everything that will be needed in serving the dinner should be
+convenient to hand. The plates to be warmed should be in the
+hot closet; those for the cold courses, the finger-bowls,
+extra small silver and cutlery, extra rolls and cracked ice,
+should be on the sideboard, so that there will be no delay in
+getting them when needed.
+
+Foot-stools placed under the table for the ladies add much
+to their comfort.
+
+
+
+
+TABLE DECORATION
+
+
+There is wide range for individual taste and artistic
+arrangement in table decoration, which is limited only by
+the resources at one's command.
+
+Pleasing effects of color are perhaps the first consideration.
+Of late it has been a fashion to have one prevailing color. In
+many cases this is very suitable as well as complimentary to
+the guests entertained. For instance, a white dinner to a
+bride, pink to young people, red to a Harvard company, or
+yellow to those with Princeton affiliations.
+
+The scheme of color is often carried through the menu as far
+as possible; the dishes served corresponding in color to the
+table decorations. Where this is done the colors should be
+light and delicate. Dark shades are not pleasing, and suggest
+the name "painted foods," which has been scornfully given to
+them.
+
+Of all colors green is the easiest to carry out, and perhaps
+the most pleasing. The many shades of green give variety
+and contrasts. Ferns make a light and dainty centerpiece,
+and rival flowers in beauty. For the menu spinach gives
+a soup, vegetable, and coloring for sauces. Green salads are
+numerous. Angelica makes a decoration for desserts. Pistachio
+nuts give flavor and color to ice-cream, icings, and bonbons.
+A very beautiful and elaborate dinner on this scheme is
+described below, which was called in the invitation "Al
+Fresco," and in its design and execution well simulated an
+out-door entertainment. Green is a soft, reposeful color;
+red, pink, and yellow are gayer, and give a more festive
+aspect. Yellow is sunny in effect, and for a yellow dinner
+the color scheme may be obtained with yellow flowers, oranges,
+silver-gilt compotiers, gilded china, and with light diffused
+through yellow shades. For the culinary part the yolks of eggs
+render important service for coloring, covering, and garnishing,
+and oranges furnish many delicious dishes.
+
+White dinners are also easy to arrange with white flowers,
+silver, a profusion of cut-glass, lace shades, white grapes,
+spun sugar, whipped cream, white sauces, celery, whites of
+eggs, white meats, etc.
+
+A white dinner is likely to be too severe, however, unless
+carefully managed. Delicate ferns can be mixed with white
+flowers without changing the effect, and a warm glow may be
+thrown on the table from a center light in the chandelier,
+screened with thin pink or yellow silk, and raised high, so as
+not to appear as a part of the decoration. The most beautiful
+pictures of snow scenes are not a dead white, but reflect the
+color of the sunset or atmosphere.
+
+Fruits and flowers typical of the season are in good taste,
+and usually more pleasing than hot-house products. In the
+spring, tulips, daffodils, lilies of the valley, or any wild
+flowers. Goldenrod, chrysanthemums, and asters in their times.
+Autumn leaves and berries later, holly and mistletoe at
+Christmas, and lilies at Easter, while in the summer the
+fields and lanes afford a wealth of material. At other times,
+and where the purse does not permit indulgence in roses and
+forced flowers, the resources lie in potted plants and fruits.
+Any plant not too large, which looks fresh and healthy, will
+make a pleasing centerpiece. The crotons and dracaenas give
+beautiful colors. A dish of growing ferns makes an attractive,
+satisfactory and enduring center ornament. With care the ferns
+will last a long time, and at small expense can be renewed.
+Double silver-plated boxes, both square and oval, are made for
+this use.
+
+Fruits are always pleasing and give good color effects.
+
+The success of any decoration depends largely upon the
+proper lighting of the table; lacking this, beautiful
+arrangements may appear commonplace or wholly lose their
+effect.
+
+The decorated dinner-table should be the especial picture of
+the room, the conspicuous object of interest and beauty for
+the time; therefore the light should be centered upon it and
+the rest of the room form but the shadowy background. The
+pleasantest light is from shaded single candles, placed at
+intervals around the table, and a more brilliant light thrown
+on the center of the table from the shaded drop-light of
+a chandelier, or from large candelabra holding groups of
+candles.
+
+Small lamps which fit candlesticks are much used, and when
+there are open windows and drafts they give much less trouble
+than candles. Effects of color are largely obtained from the
+use of shades. These vary in size and shape to suit the fancy
+or fashion of the moment, and are made of silk, lace, or
+paper; for the latter, crape papers are much used. Shades
+recently brought from Paris were of translucent paper painted
+by hand to imitate china. Making shades is pleasant fancy
+work, and the materials are so inexpensive that one can easily
+indulge in a variety of them. With a centerpiece of polished
+red apples and candles with red shades, or a potted plant and
+green shades, quite a definite and pleasing character may be
+given to a simple dinner. High ornaments should be avoided
+except they be candelabra or lamps which do not obstruct the
+view across the table. It is very annoying to be forced to
+look around ornaments when trying to talk to a person seated
+opposite at table; such a screen effectually debars general
+conversation. On large or long tables, large ornamental pieces
+should be used. Those appropriate to a small table often
+appear scanty and insufficient on a large one. Masses of one
+color are more effective than mixtures, and a display of
+abundance may be made on large tables while on small ones
+daintiness is more pleasing.
+
+Confectioner's pieces are again being used for dinner
+decorations. Baskets and horns of plenty made of nougat or
+pulled sugar, holding glace fruits, and forms made of spun
+sugar are in good taste, but imitations of art objects and
+high pyramids, such as are used on supper tables, should be
+excluded.
+
+A pleasing decoration for a hot day may be made of a block of
+ice set in a pan deep enough to hold the drippings, but placed
+on something to raise it above the sides of the pan. The pan
+should be concealed with moss and ferns, or flowers, arranged
+around it loosely so as to partly conceal the ice also. A
+hole cut through the center of the block of ice, and a flat
+candle, such as are used in night lamps, placed within it,
+gives a brilliant and lovely effect. The block of ice should
+be cut square and weigh at least ten pounds. This decoration
+is easily managed in the country, where ferns are readily
+obtainable.
+
+[Illustration: ROUND DINNER-TABLE WITH EIGHTEEN COVERS--CLOTH OF PINK
+INDIA SILK COVERED WITH LACE--CENTER ORNAMENT OF FERNS--BUNCH OF PINK
+ROSES IN FRONT OF EACH COVER.]
+
+A pan filled with floating water-lilies, together with their
+buds and leaves, the pan being concealed in a bed of moss and
+ferns, makes also a pretty decoration for a luncheon table.
+These flowers close at night, and so are only suitable for
+daylight service. A table may be made beautiful by entirely
+covering it with a mass of the same kind of flowers, leaving
+only enough space around the edge to hold the plates and
+glasses. The flowers may or may not be raised in the center of
+the table, or may in any way simulate a garden-bed. When
+daisies are used they should be plentifully mixed with grasses
+as they are in the field. Care must be used not to make the
+decoration high, or the effect will be lost; and to avoid this
+the stems of the flowers, cut the desired length, can be stuck
+into wet sand or moss, held in flat tins. This will hold them
+firmly in place, as well as keep them fresh. An English
+fashion is to have a piece of silver ornament the table,
+without accessories of fruits or flowers. This severe but
+elegant simplicity is perhaps a reaction from the overloading
+of tables which has long prevailed.
+
+A pink dinner given in Washington was arranged as follows: The
+table was round and large enough to seat eighteen persons.
+A covering of thin ivory-colored India silk over pink was cut
+round to fit the table, and a frill of lace ten inches deep
+fell over a ruffle of pink silk on the edge. A large square
+of silk gauze embroidered in pink covered the center of the
+table. A mound of maiden-hair ferns formed the centerpiece.
+Around this were placed pink candles in Venetian-glass
+candlesticks and shaded with full frills of lace over pink.
+The bonbon dishes and all the glasses were of Venetian and
+Bohemian glass. Four ornamental candy pieces were used: two
+were garden hats holding glazed cherries, and a pink ribbon
+tied around each hat held a large bunch of pink roses. The
+other two were baskets, and held frosted grapes which were
+half hidden under spun sugar. Ornamental silver was omitted,
+as being out of harmony with the other decorations.
+
+A dinner unique in its character was given a few years ago
+by Lord Dufferin, the English ambassador to France. The
+centerpiece was flowers, and candelabra lighted the table;
+but in place of the dessert dishes which ordinarily do
+ornamental service were choice bits of bric-a-brac collected
+by the ambassador in various parts of the world. The curios
+served as an interesting novelty, and became the subject of
+conversation. A dinner given in Jamaica is described, where
+orchids in profusion were suspended over the table, some on
+climbing vines, and others, of such delicate form and texture
+as made it seem not unnatural, appeared as though floating in
+the air.
+
+The "Al Fresco" dinner referred to above was in imitation of a
+woodland scene. It was served in a dining-room the walls of
+which were hung with tapestries. The ceiling decoration was
+blue sky with white clouds. A profusion of palms, bay-trees,
+and rubber-plants were placed about the room and screened the
+side-boards. The dining-table was a mass of verdure. It was
+round, seating eighteen persons. The whole center of the table
+was depressed eight inches, leaving an outside rim fourteen
+inches wide for the plates and glasses. The center space was
+filled with growing plants, the top of the pots being on a
+level with the outside rim. The pots were concealed by mosses
+and loose ferns making a solid mass of green. Four tall
+slender plants rose from the center, the rest was of ferns
+and lycopodium with here and there a few primroses. Green
+candles with fluffy green shades in glass candlesticks were
+so distributed as to give sufficient light. The space left
+for the dinner service was covered with light-green India
+silk over canton flannel. On the back of the menu cards were
+water-color sketches of forest scenes. The menu was largely
+composed of products of the forest. The aspect of this dinner
+was really sylvan, and the idea so well carried out that the
+elaboration of it was artistically hidden. From the time of
+Lucullus, dinner-givers have been striving for novelties, but
+as a rule any radical departure from conventional forms is a
+failure.
+
+
+MENU OF THE "AL FRESCO" DINNER
+
+_Soup_
+
+Cream of Celery (colored green).
+
+_Fish_
+
+Brook Trout, Butter Sauce.
+
+_Entree_
+
+Mushrooms on Crusts.
+
+_Roast_
+
+Saddle of Venison. Wild plum sauce. Saratoga potatoes. Green
+peas served in fontage cups.
+
+Salpicon of Fruits au Rhum.
+
+_Game and Salad_
+
+Quails in nests of Puree of Chestnuts. English Walnuts and
+Celery mixed with green Mayonnaise in cups of molded tomato
+jelly.
+
+_Cheese_
+
+Small balls of Cream-cheese, colored green to imitate bird's
+eggs, in nests of shredded Lettuce.
+
+_Hot Entremet_
+
+Individual Nut Puddings (burning).
+
+_Dessert_
+
+Pistache Ice Cream Pralinee, molded in a ring, the center
+filled with whipped cream. White cakes with green icing.
+Fruits. Coffee.
+
+
+
+
+COURSES
+
+
+The order of the dinner service is soup, fish, flesh, fowl.
+These may be supplemented to any extent with entremets and
+entrees. Mets are the principal dishes. Entremets, the dishes
+served between the mets. Entrees, dishes which are served
+between any of the courses.
+
+ [Sidenote: First Course.]
+
+I. =Course.= Canapes of caviare, small bits of anchovy toast, or
+in their season muskmelons, are sometimes served as the first
+course, but ordinarily oysters or clams on the half shell is
+the first dish presented. The smallest-sized shell-fish are
+preferable to the large ones. One half dozen are served on
+each plate and placed symmetrically on or around a bed of
+cracked ice; a quarter of a lemon cut lengthwise is placed
+in the center. Cayenne pepper and grated horse-radish are
+passed with this course, also very thin slices of brown bread
+buttered and folded together, then cut into small squares or
+triangular-shaped pieces. The plates holding the shell-fish
+may be placed on the table before dinner is announced; but as
+there is no place to conveniently lay the folded napkin
+except on the plate, it is as well not to serve the mollusks
+until the guests are seated.
+
+ [Sidenote: Second Course: Soup.]
+
+II. =Course: Soup.= It is better to serve a clear soup when the
+dinner is to be of many courses, as heavy soups are too
+hearty. The choice of two kinds of soup may be offered. Grated
+Parmesan cheese may be passed with clear soups, dice of fried
+bread with cream soups, and toasted cracker biscuits with any
+kind of soup. One ladleful of soup is sufficient for each
+person, and a second portion is not offered. An anecdote is
+told of a punctilious person who, being asked if he would be
+helped again to soup, answered, "Thanks, not to-day."
+
+Hors d'oeuvres, which are radishes, celery, olives, etc.,
+are passed after the soup. Salted almonds are taken at any
+time through the dinner.
+
+ [Sidenote: Third Course: Fish.]
+
+III. =Course: Fish.= Fish, if boiled or fried, is served upon
+a napkin. If baked no napkin is used, and a little sauce is
+spread on the dish. Boiled potatoes are served with boiled
+fish, and are more attractive when cut with a potato-scoop
+into small balls. Cucumbers dressed with oil and vinegar are
+also served with fish.
+
+ [Sidenote: Fourth Course: Entrees.]
+
+IV. =Course: Entrees.= Entrees can be served between any of the
+courses, or they may be omitted altogether; but a variety of
+attractive dishes come under this head, and usually one is
+served after the fish.
+
+ [Sidenote: Fifth Course: Vegetables.]
+
+V. =Course: Vegetables.= A vegetable, such as asparagus,
+artichokes, cauliflower, is served at this time, although the
+French reserve the vegetable until after the joint. Only one
+vegetable besides potato is permitted with a meat course, and
+if more are wanted they are served as a separate course.
+
+ [Sidenote: Sixth Course.]
+
+VI. =Course.= The joint with one green vegetable and potato.
+
+ [Sidenote: Seventh Course.]
+
+VII. =Course.= Frozen punch, when served, comes between the
+meat and game courses. It is not passed, but a glassful
+standing on a plate, with a coffee spoon beside it, is
+placed before each person.
+
+If preferred, a cheese omelet or souffle may be used instead
+of punch for this course.
+
+ [Sidenote: Eighth Course.]
+
+VIII. =Course: Game and Salad, or Poultry and Salad.= Game
+is usually not passed, but the portions are laid on the
+individual plates by the butler. This is done in order to
+serve it as hot as possible. A small cold plate is sometimes
+given for the salad; crescent-shaped plates are made for this
+use. With ducks, celery and small squares of fried hominy are
+served. When game or poultry is not used, cheese may be served
+with the salad, or cheese-straws instead of cheese. When salad
+is served with game or poultry, cheese and crackers may be
+served immediately afterward as a separate course, or they may
+be passed after the dessert.
+
+ [Sidenote: Ninth Course.]
+
+IX. =Course.= Sweet puddings, souffles, Bavarian cream, etc.
+
+ [Sidenote: Tenth Course.]
+
+X. =Course.= Ice-cream or any frozen dessert. Cakes and
+brandied peaches, preserved ginger, or wine-jellies may be
+passed with ice-cream.
+
+ [Sidenote: Eleventh Course.]
+
+XI. =Course.= Fruit, fresh or glace, and bonbons.
+
+ [Sidenote: Twelfth Course.]
+
+XII. =Course.= Coffee, liqueurs.
+
+Of the courses given above, the first, fourth, fifth, and
+seventh, and a choice of either the ninth or tenth, may all,
+or any one of them, be omitted.
+
+Black coffee in small cups is passed on a tray, with cream and
+sugar, in the drawing- and smoking-rooms after the guests have
+left the table.
+
+Apollinaris or other sparkling water is passed later, and is
+usually welcomed.
+
+
+
+
+THE HOME DINNER
+
+
+At the every-day or family dinner there will naturally be less
+elaboration in the decoration of the table, and fewer courses,
+than when the dinner is an occasion of entertainment, but so
+far as the appointments reach they should be observed with the
+same precision and care. The dinner has always something of a
+ceremonious character, being the time when the family all meet
+with the leisure to enjoy one another's society after the
+labors of the day are done. It is well, therefore, to attend
+to the few material details which aid in making the occasion
+an agreeable one. Refinements are more clearly shown at table
+than elsewhere, and the influences of decorum at dinner are
+more subtle than are always recognized. Let the linen be as
+spotless and white, the silver and glass as polished, and the
+dishes, however few, be as carefully prepared as though
+guests were present. The simplest dinner so ordered will
+give pleasure and satisfaction. When attention to details is
+practised every day, company will cause no agitation in the
+household. The refinements of the table are within the means
+of the humblest. A word may also be said for manners at the
+home table. The habit of fault-finding, commenting upon the
+dishes and wines, correcting the mistakes of servants while
+at the table, making apologies, etc., is reprehensible,
+inefficacious and vulgar, and not only interrupts
+conversation, but spoils the pleasure of the dinner hour. It
+is always difficult, and often impossible, to improve a dish
+after it is served; therefore, it is better to accept it
+without remark. If the housekeeper, who is always the first to
+observe faults in the service, can conceal her discomfiture,
+it is but right for the others to be considerate. Faults
+often pass unnoticed if attention is not called to them. Dr.
+Johnson, it is said, always complained of his dinners, but
+never omitted to say grace. Upon one such occasion his wife
+interrupted him, saying, "Nay, hold, Mr. Johnson! Do not make
+a farce of thanking God for a dinner which in a few minutes
+you will pronounce uneatable."
+
+The home table, with its every-day appointments, causing
+one to blush in the event of a friend's unexpected arrival,
+is not to be excused in this day of advanced women in the
+nineteenth century, when higher education has at least taught
+them to regard their domestic duties in the light of a science
+and an art.
+
+There are many simple dishes that can be quickly prepared
+which will give the dinner a little more complimentary
+character, and supply the little extra that may be needed
+when more are present than were originally provided for. A
+beefsteak can be virtually enlarged by serving with it a
+mushroom sauce, for the mushrooms, having the same elements
+of nutrition as the meat, permit the latter to be served
+in smaller portions. A simple entree, such as a dish of
+macaroni, a scallop dish, a mince, with good sauce (which is
+easily made where the stock pot is ever ready), a cheese
+omelet, a vegetable salad, etc., etc., are suggested as a
+few of the dishes, which are called by the French _plats
+d'amitie_, and should enable any woman to enjoy the pleasure
+of entertaining unexpected guests in a hospitable manner.
+
+
+
+
+SERVING THE INFORMAL DINNER
+
+
+In laying the table for an informal dinner, where the
+carving is to be done on the table, a napkin to protect the
+cloth is spread at the carver's place. Very pretty fancy
+pieces are made for this use, but an ordinary dinner napkin
+will do. This is not removed until the table is cleared for
+the dessert. When the carving is done on the table, the soup
+and dessert are usually served by the lady of the house, and
+the salad is also dressed on the table, and then passed. So
+far as the service will allow, however, it is pleasanter to
+have everything passed that does not need cutting.
+
+The vegetable dishes should never be placed on the table.
+When the joint is put on the table, warm plates in a pile are
+set at the left of, or before the carver, and when a portion
+is served, the plate is lifted by the servant and placed
+before the person for whom it is intended, without the use
+of a tray. The plates placed on the table when it is laid
+are used for holding the soup plates, and are not removed
+until the ones holding the portions of the next course are
+exchanged for them; if the succeeding course is to be passed,
+warm or cold plates, as the course requires, are in turn
+exchanged for them; but if the course is to be served from
+the table, the places are meanwhile left without covers.
+There should always be a plate before each person except in
+this instance, and when the table is cleared for dessert.
+Sharpening the carving-knife is a trial to the nerves of
+many, and this infliction can be easily avoided by having
+it done before dinner is announced. Many good carvers,
+however, seem to delight in this preliminary operation and
+are unconscious of committing an act of impoliteness. The
+attractiveness of a dish may be wholly lost by unskilful
+carving, and the appetite may be destroyed by an overloaded
+plate. Where but one substantial dish is served, it is
+permissible to be helped a second time. The dish can be
+removed to the side-table, and the second portions helped by
+the servant, if the carver does not care to be interrupted in
+his own dinner after he has performed the office of cutting
+the joint.
+
+The sense of sight should always be considered, even though
+it cost the trouble of replenishing a dish. No more than can
+be used on one plate is served at the same time at any well
+appointed table. One vegetable only, besides potatoes, is
+served with the roast; if more are used, they are served as
+courses separately.
+
+
+
+
+LUNCHEON
+
+
+The luncheon service does not differ materially from that of
+dinner. Lighter dishes are usually served, entrees taking the
+place of joints and roasts, and the soup or bouillon is served
+in cups instead of soup plates. Grape fruit, or a fruit salad,
+is often an acceptable first course.
+
+When the table has a handsome and polished surface the cloth
+may be left off if desired and a fancy square take its place.
+In this case small squares may also be used under the plates
+to protect the table and in such other places as needed.
+Drawn-work linen squares over mahogany make an attractive
+luncheon table.
+
+When a large number of guests are being entertained at
+luncheon, small tables placed in the different rooms (and on
+the piazzas, if in the country) are often used, and these do
+not admit of more than the slight decoration of a few flowers.
+Luncheons of this kind are usually of an informal character
+and secondary to some entertainment which has preceded them. A
+few simple menus for luncheons are given below.
+
+MENUS FOR LUNCHEON
+
+ No. 1.
+
+ Grape Fruit.
+ Bouillon.
+ Oyster Patties.
+ Chops and Peas.
+ Quail, Lettuce Salad.
+ Ice-Cream.
+ Cake.
+ Tea.
+
+ No. 2.
+
+ Melon.
+ Clams on Half-shell.
+ Cold Salmon, Sauce Tartare.
+ Filets Mignons, Sauce Bearnaise.
+ Omelet Souffle.
+ Cheese.
+ Coffee.
+
+ No. 3.
+
+ Grape Fruit.
+ Bouillon.
+ Shad Roe.
+ { Broiled Chicken.
+ { Green Peas.
+ Russian Salad.
+ { Ice-Cream and Jelly.
+ { Angel Cake.
+ Tea.
+
+ No. 4.
+
+ Bouillon.
+ Lobster a la Newburg.
+ Eggs Villeroi.
+ Sweetbreads and Peas.
+ French Chops, Potato Straws.
+ Russian Salad of Chicken Aspic, Celery and Walnuts (see receipt).
+ Plum-Pudding Glace.
+ Coffee.
+
+ No. 5.
+
+ Chicken Consomme.
+ Lobster Chops.
+ Mushrooms on Toast.
+ Sweetbreads and Peas.
+ Frozen Punch.
+ Quails on Toast.
+ { Pate de Foie Gras en Bellevue.
+ { Lettuce.
+ Charlotte Russe.
+
+ No. 6.
+
+ Clams.
+ Eggs a la Reine.
+ { Planked Shad.
+ { Cucumbers.
+
+ { Broiled Squabs.
+ { Vegetable Salad.
+ Ice-Cream.
+ Cheese.
+ Fruit.
+
+ No. 7.
+
+ Salpicon of Fruit.
+ Cream of Clams.
+ Salmon Cutlets, Cucumbers.
+ Curried Eggs.
+ Chicken a la Poulette.
+ Asparagus, Sauce Hollandaise.
+ Fruit Tart.
+ Chocolate Pralinee.
+
+ No. 8.
+
+ Little Neck Clams.
+ Bouillon.
+ Vol-au-Vent.
+ Broiled Chicken, Peas.
+ Mushrooms.
+ Lobster Salad.
+ Gateau St. Honore.
+ Strawberries.
+
+At a luncheon, given in a country house to a large party of
+golfers, all the edibles, consisting of cold meats, game,
+aspics, salads, and mince-pie, were placed on the side-table,
+and the gentlemen served the ladies before taking their own
+places at the table. The servants came into the room only
+to remove the plates. This gave a very social and lively
+character to the meal, which all enjoyed for its informality.
+
+Entertainments of this kind may often be practicable, as the
+question of service sometimes debars one from entertaining
+many guests at a time.
+
+
+
+
+THE FIVE O'CLOCK TEA
+
+
+A cup of tea at this time of the afternoon is usually
+gratefully accepted, and one is disappointed if it is made so
+badly that it is not drinkable. The young lady who presides at
+the tea table at an afternoon reception has sometimes a
+difficult task if the tea is not prepared with a bag (as
+directed on page 550), but for the unceremonious social cup of
+tea with the friend who drops in at this hour it is easy to
+have it just right. After the proper preparation of the tea
+(as directed on page 549), the attractiveness of the table and
+the delicacy of the china are the next things to be desired.
+Tea does not taste as well taken from a coarse, large, or
+heavy cup. The taste and refinement of the hostess are easily
+recognized in this very unceremonious, but very social,
+function. The cloth may be as elaborate as one wishes, but it
+must above all be spotless, unwrinkled and dainty. The cups
+may all differ from one another, but each one should be small
+and thin, and the steaming kettle, which lends cheerfulness to
+the occasion, should be highly polished, whether it be silver,
+brass, or copper. A dry biscuit or a thin piece of bread and
+butter is usually offered with the tea. Fresh unsalted butter
+is preferable, but any of the fine butters may be used. The
+butter is spread very evenly on the loaf; the bread sliced
+very thin and doubled like a sandwich. It may be cut into any
+shape desired, such as strips, diamonds, or triangles. It is
+attractive stamped into circles with a biscuit-cutter of about
+the size of a silver dollar. Three kinds of bread may be
+used--white, graham, and Boston brown bread, and all may be
+served on the same plate. This simple dish is carried into
+the esthetics in some English houses, where the bread and
+butter is described as tasting of roses, violets, clover, or
+nasturtiums. The flavor is obtained by shutting the fresh
+butter in a tight jar with the blossoms for several hours.
+Butter very readily absorbs flavors and odors, indeed it is
+the medium used for extracting perfumes in the manufacture of
+those articles. The flavored butter is spread in the ordinary
+way on the bread, which has been treated also to a bath of
+flowers. Butter sandwiches must be exceedingly thin and
+shapely, and have no suggestion of mussiness. They should be
+laid in a folded napkin to keep them fresh. Any sweet wafers
+may also be used, but as this is not a meal, nothing should be
+offered which will take away the appetite for dinner, which
+follows shortly afterward.
+
+
+
+
+A HOMILY ON COOKING
+
+
+It is a trite saying that a thing worth doing at all is worth
+doing well, but, from the inefficiency of the large number of
+domestics who hold the office of cook, and from the acceptance
+of careless work by so many families, it would seem that the
+truism is not regarded in reference to cooking. Since it is
+upon the kitchen that the health and comfort of the family so
+greatly depend, is it not a duty, and would it not be a
+pleasure, for the mistress of every house to understand the
+science of cooking as well as the arts which give other
+attractions to the house? A knowledge of its fundamental
+principles would give her a sense of independence and power,
+which knowledge is proverbially said to do. If she were
+familiar with the nature of the yeast plant, and the action of
+heat as applied in boiling, broiling, and frying, if she could
+make a sauce and clear a soup, her family would be relieved
+from the affliction of sour bread, burned meats, and muddy
+soup. An ordinary kitchen servant can do these simple things
+well, if she is once told how, and this basis would be a guide
+in other work, and a safeguard against many failures. There is
+no such thing as luck in cooking. Laws govern the chemical
+changes which take place, and can always be relied upon. Water
+will boil at 212 deg., and cannot be made hotter by violent
+boiling in an open vessel. Frying can be properly done only
+when the fat is smoking hot. Broiling can be properly done
+only over, or under, hot and bright coals. For baking, the
+oven must be of the right temperature. The same thing cooked
+in the same way will always be the same, and failure comes
+simply from neglect of the rules. It is as easy to have good
+cooking as bad; the former requires only the elements of care
+and intelligence. With very little trouble, dishes may be made
+to please the sight as well as the taste. The difference
+between the elegance and refinement of one table and the
+vulgarity of another often lies merely in the manner of
+dishing and serving. Again, the step from plain to fancy
+cooking is very short. A simple and tasteful arrangement,
+or combination, of materials prepared in the ordinary way
+will make an ornamental dish. Minced chicken pressed into
+a ring mold to give it shape, and the center filled with
+a mushroom sauce, will make a more appetizing dish than if
+placed carelessly together with no regard to symmetry. Potatoes
+pressed into a fancy mold, a part of the center removed, and
+the space filled with chopped seasoned meat, will give a
+chartreuse, and no thought of hash suggested. A jelly with a
+flower in the top, or of two colors, will make a decorative
+piece for the table. Uniformity in size and shape of potatoes,
+chops, pancakes, slices of bread or anything that is served on
+the same dish, gives a pleasing sense of order and care, which
+is as marked as the proper arrangement of the table furniture.
+It is in little things only that fancy differs from plain
+cooking, but as soon as a cook comprehends the value of the
+appearance of dishes she is sure to think of their perfection
+in every other way.
+
+There is a popular prejudice against fried foods, and a belief
+that abstaining from them will cure us of our dyspepsia, but
+if articles are properly fried they should contain no more
+grease than the boiled one does of water. Smoking fat has such
+a high degree of heat, that certain articles are better
+cooked by frying than by any other method. Minced meat, rolled
+into the form of croquettes and fried, assumes a different
+character both in taste and rank from the minced meat heated
+in other ways. If the croquettes are coated with egg and
+crumbs and immersed in smoking hot fat, as the rule directs,
+the egg is instantly hardened, and no fat can be absorbed
+through it. That which covers the outside is evaporated by
+draining and drying in a hot place. The napkin on which the
+croquettes are served will not be stained if they are rightly
+fried. Saratoga chips can be handled with a glove without
+soiling it. We need not be a nation of dyspeptics from eating
+pie when the French are not from eating puff-paste, or from
+hot breads when the English are not from plum pudding and pork
+pies. It is from the manner of preparing our foods that we
+suffer. Cooking has not been one of the virtues of our new
+country, as we have been satisfied to get our cooks from
+France and Ireland, but if intelligent American housewives
+will take interest and pleasure in this important department,
+which is delegated to their care, some of the serious trials
+of life will be overcome, and emancipation from many petty
+cares and annoyances will follow.
+
+
+
+
+COOKING AS A PLEASURE AND AN ACCOMPLISHMENT
+
+
+The common sayings about waste in American kitchens, dyspeptic
+results of American cooking, etc., reflect the opinion held by
+other nations of our culinary art, and though the judgment may
+be too severe, it has been pronounced, and should remind us of
+our shortcomings.
+
+It seems, however, as though a new era were now dawning.
+Cooking-schools are established in large cities, cooking
+lectures are given everywhere and are well attended. The
+nutritive values of different foods and the chemistry of
+cooking are studied. This, and the recognition of the fact
+that health proceeds largely from the diet, seem to indicate
+that there has been an awakening of interest in the subject of
+gastronomy. In this day of fads, it will soon be discovered
+also that pleasures lie in this line of work. Fancy cooking
+has an interest quite as engaging as other occupations of
+diversion. Fine cooking utensils, gas-stoves, and modern
+conveniences, make the well-appointed kitchen as attractive
+as the laboratory or workshop. Trying a new dish has the
+same interest as any other experiment. The construction of
+ornamental pieces is as interesting as other fancy work.
+Making puff-paste, ice-creams, fancy molding of desserts and
+salads, boiling sugar, etc., are in reality simple processes,
+and with very little practice found to be as easy to prepare
+as dishes which from familiarity have come to be called plain
+cooking. Skill and dexterity of hand may be enjoyed in boning,
+trussing, and larding, and taste shown in decorating with
+truffles and other articles, in molding with flowers and
+fruits, in icing cakes, in spinning sugar, and in making
+bonbons. The pleasure of decorating the table and adorning the
+dining-room will be found secondary to that of preparing
+artistic dishes when that art has once been learned.
+
+The gas-stove obviates the objection, formerly existing, of
+one's being subjected to excessive heat while cooking. At a
+cost of about $2.00 a stove can be bought which will stand
+on a table anywhere, and answer all ordinary purposes of
+boiling and frying. More expensive ones, fitted with ovens
+and other appliances, answer the requirements of all kinds
+of cooking.
+
+When the preparation of a new or a fancy dish comes to be
+looked upon as a pastime instead of a task, there may be
+discovered in America Savarins and Bechamels. We have already
+had a Sam Ward, but to the women should belong the honor of
+raising our standard of cooking, and though they need not
+agree with the terrible sentiment expressed by Margaret
+Fuller, that a woman to have influence must cook or scold,
+still it must be conceded that the former accomplishment will
+enable her to wield a potent scepter. Perhaps, however, the
+strongest word to be said in favor of every mistress of
+a house knowing how to cook is the usefulness of it. The
+difficulty of getting trained cooks at reasonable wages, the
+caprices of the class, whose consciences do not prevent their
+leaving at the moment when their services are most needed, and
+the many occasions that arise when a knowledge of cooking is
+of the greatest comfort and service, make it difficult, for
+those who know how to cook, to comprehend how any one can
+keep house without this knowledge, or how, with the inferior
+service generally rendered, the pleasures of hospitality
+can be enjoyed, or the comfort of a well-ordered culinary
+department experienced.
+
+
+
+
+TO TRAIN A GREEN COOK
+
+
+If one is obliged to accept the service of inexperienced
+cooks, or of women who claim to be plain cooks, but in reality
+know nothing of the right ways of preparing anything, it is
+often necessary to do more or less teaching or supervising.
+Often it would be found easier to begin at the beginning, and
+teach an entirely green girl who has intelligence and a desire
+to learn, than it is to correct careless habits or bad methods
+already formed. A formula for teaching a green cook is given
+below for the benefit of any who care to avail of it.
+
+_First._ Impress the necessity of clean utensils, being
+particular that every saucepan used is perfectly clean on
+the outside as well as the inside.
+
+_Second._ Have all the utensils of one kind kept together in
+definite places, and insist that each one is returned to its
+place as soon as it has served its use, thus establishing
+system.
+
+_Third._ When sugar, butter, spices, or any articles are
+taken out for use, have the boxes returned to their places
+as soon as the desired quantity is removed.
+
+_Fourth._ Do not allow any accumulation of soiled utensils
+waiting for a general cleaning-up. A great deal of time and
+work can be saved, and an orderly kitchen maintained, by
+washing things as you go along so far as possible at odd
+moments, and also in not using an unnecessary number of
+dishes.
+
+_Fifth._ Explain about exact measurements. Insist upon the
+use of the tin measuring-cup (see page 77).
+
+_Sixth._ Have a time-table giving time per pound for cooking
+meats, fastened in a convenient place against the wall, for
+easy reference.
+
+_Seventh._ Have all meats weighed and wiped off with a wet
+cloth before proceeding to cook them.
+
+_Eighth._ At all times give attention to right management of
+the fire; be especially careful not to have coal piled above
+the grate, nor to let the top of range become red-hot. Shut
+off drafts before the coal is burned out, and have the ovens
+clean and at the right temperature.
+
+_Ninth._ Have everything dished neatly, and garnished
+simply.
+
+_Tenth._ No matter how simple the dish, insist that it be
+attractive in appearance, and that every dish placed on the
+table show the care of the cook in its preparation; for
+instance, have every piece of toast of the same size and
+shape, evenly browned and carefully arranged on a hot plate.
+
+To instil strict care in every detail is a most important
+point in forming a good cook.
+
+
+DISHES RECOMMENDED FOR FIRST LESSONS.
+
+ To make beef stock for soups, page 88.
+ To boil potatoes, page 201.
+ To boil rice, page 222.
+ To make a white sauce, page 277.
+
+With one half the sauce make cream potatoes, add a little
+onion juice to the other half, and add to it meat minced very
+fine, making a creamed mince. Serve it on moistened toast; or
+make creamed chicken and serve a border of rice around it.
+When making a roux, and a white sauce is understood, it is
+easy to show the variations of it, such as to cook onion or
+vegetables with the butter before the flour is added; or to
+brown the flour if a brown sauce is wanted; or to use stock
+instead of milk, thus making a Bechamel sauce; or to add an
+egg to white sauce, making a poulette sauce, etc.
+
+To poach eggs: Serve them on toast cut uniformly and
+moistened. Place symmetrically on dish and garnish with
+parsley; or, spread the toast with creamed mince, place a
+poached egg on each piece, and put a spot of pepper on the
+center of the yolk.
+
+To make coffee, page 551.
+
+To broil a steak, page 156.
+
+To boil a leg of mutton, caper sauce, pages 163 and 164.
+
+To roast beef and baste frequently, roast potatoes in the
+same pan, pages 146 and 204.
+
+To draw and truss a chicken, pages 180 and 183.
+
+To clear the beef stock for clear soup, page 86.
+
+To make common stock, page 87.
+
+To make potato soup, page 103.
+
+To clarify drippings, page 74.
+
+To try out all other fat, page 74.
+
+To dry bread and roll it into crumbs, page 51.
+
+To make bread and bread biscuits, page 340.
+
+To make rice pudding, page 433.
+
+To make bread pudding, page 434.
+
+To make plain cornstarch pudding, page 397.
+
+A compote to serve with cornstarch pudding, page 535.
+
+Cottage pudding, sabayon sauce, pages 435 and 446.
+
+Cup cake, page 470.
+
+Cookies, page 481.
+
+Plain pie-crust, page 451.
+
+Baked apple-dumplings, hard sauce, pp. 429 and 448.
+
+Some variations of cornstarch pudding, page 398.
+
+Plain wine-jelly, page 415.
+
+When a woman has learned to do these few simple things
+perfectly, she will have no difficulty in following any
+ordinary receipt, and having a knowledge of the first
+principles of cooking, can then advance to more elaborate
+dishes.
+
+Frying should not be attempted until she can roast, broil,
+and bake.
+
+Croquettes of various kinds can then be made; to mold them
+uniformly requires a little practice--the care of the fat
+and the right degree of heat are the essential things to
+emphasize in frying.
+
+In one month a woman of ordinary intelligence, with the
+desire to learn, should be able to make perfectly, and serve
+attractively, enough simple dishes to supply the family
+table with sufficient variety, without troubling the
+mistress to plan and think for her.
+
+An insistence upon system and exactness will insure immunity
+from failures.
+
+
+
+
+ECONOMICAL LIVING
+
+
+A very pleasant book called "$10.00 Enough" explains how a
+family of two lived well on that sum per week, including house
+rent and wages of one servant. Mrs. Rorer says $2.00 per head a
+week is a liberal allowance. Articles are published giving
+directions for living on ten cents a day; also of dinners for
+six people costing twenty-five cents. In examining these
+formulae it is evident that in order to accomplish this very
+small cost of living, one must first understand the comparative
+values of foods, so as to select those which at low prices
+furnish the necessary nourishment, and secondly, to be able to
+cook them in such a way as to make them acceptable; in fact the
+rule holds good, however high the scale of living, that the
+proper cooking of food counts for more than the cost of it. The
+cheap and the expensive articles can be equally spoiled in the
+cooking; while the cheap ones, well cooked, are more esteemed
+than the high-priced ones poorly prepared. The first thing
+excluded from the list of cheap nutritive foods is white bread.
+Refining the flour to the whiteness of the so-called best
+qualities takes out most of its nutritive elements, while the
+lower grades or brown flours retain the gluten, and make a
+bread which is preferred when one becomes familiar with it.
+Beans, peas, and corn-meal have an important place on the list
+of accepted foods. They supply the wastes of the system and
+afford a hearty meal. Meat, which is the most expensive food,
+has come to be regarded here as a necessity, but in the old
+countries the classes who perform the hardest labor consider it
+only as a luxury, and seldom use it oftener than once a week.
+Often the cost of living is more in the waste than in the
+actual consumption of food. Another needless and unwise expense
+is buying more than is required, providing for three persons
+enough for six; and still another extravagance is in buying
+articles which are out of season. For instance, in the spring
+veal is a very cheap meat; in the autumn it is the most
+expensive one, but, at the right times, one may indulge in
+sweetbreads, calf's head, calf's brains, and liver. In its
+season game is frequently abundant and reasonably cheap. The
+idea prevails that, in order to have variety, it is necessary
+to buy whatever the market offers, whereas variety may be
+attained by variation in the ways of cooking, in serving with
+different sauces, and with different accompaniments, and in
+arranging the menu so that one course is in pleasing contrast
+to the preceding one, thus avoiding surfeit.
+
+Many pieces of meat of the best quality are sold at low
+rates because not in shapes to be served as boiling or
+roasting pieces. These serve well for entrees and made-up
+dishes; other pieces, which are tough, but well flavored,
+can by slow cooking be made as tender as the prime cuts,
+such as a round of beef braised.
+
+On page 249 will be found a number of menus and receipts for
+very inexpensive dinners.
+
+ [Sidenote: Mushrooms.]
+
+Mr. Gibson, in an interesting article on "Mushrooms,"
+published in "Harper's Magazine" for August, 1894, calls
+attention to the vast amount of wholesome and nutritious food
+that lies at the door of every country dweller. City people
+pay at least a dollar a pound for mushrooms, which are served
+at the finest dinners, and are considered as among the best
+articles for use in high-class cooking. Therefore, why should
+they be scorned or overlooked by those who can have them for
+the gathering? Neglect to use them seems equal in wastefulness
+to the practice of some country butchers, who throw away
+calves' heads, brains, sweetbreads, fresh tongues, etc.,
+because the people have not learned their value. A French
+family who moved into a western town reported that the cost of
+living there was nominal, because the foods which they most
+prized, not being recognized as belonging on the list of
+comestibles, were given away by the butchers as food for dogs.
+Mushrooms are very distinctive in feature, and by the aid of
+descriptions given in books and colored charts, one can easily
+learn the edible varieties which grow in his neighborhood. By
+taking no risks in eating those not perfectly recognized,
+there is no danger of being poisoned. It is not thought
+difficult to learn varieties of the rose, nor to discriminate
+between the poison and the innocuous ivy. The form, color, and
+habitat of mushrooms make them equally easy to recognize. Care
+should be taken, however, to avoid any mushroom which is old
+or partly decayed, as its condition then is analogous to that
+of putrid meat. In their season the edible fungi grow in great
+profusion; they are nitrogenous, containing the same nutritive
+elements as meat, and well serve as a substitute for it,
+giving a pleasant change to the limited bill of frugal fare.
+Mr. Gibson speaks of them as beefsteaks. They seem from
+circumstances, therefore, to have a place in the dietary of
+the poor as well as the rich. Receipts for cooking mushrooms
+are given on page 314.
+
+It is sometimes thought to be an extravagance to serve a roast
+to a small family, because so much meat is left over. When
+there is no way known of presenting it again except as cold
+meat or as hash, it may indeed be disagreeable to have the
+same meat served four times. A good cook, however, served
+turkey acceptably at four dinners to a family of three persons
+in this way:
+
+
+FIRST DAY'S DINNER
+
+ 10 lbs. turkey at 16 cents per lb. $1.60
+ 1 quart sweet potatoes boiled .10
+ 2 quarts apples (of which she used three for baked
+ apple dumplings, sabayon sauce, page 446) .15
+ 1 egg .03
+ 1 lemon .02
+ 1/2 cup sugar .01
+ -- .06
+ --
+ Cost of first day's dinner $1.91
+
+
+SECOND DAY'S DINNER
+
+ 2 lbs. codfish boiled .20
+
+HOLLANDAISE SAUCE (page 281).
+
+ 2 eggs .06
+ 1/4 lb. butter .08
+ 1/2 lemon .01
+ -- .15
+ 6 croquettes made of one cupful of turkey meat .00
+
+SAUCE TO MIX THEM
+
+ 1/2 cup milk .01
+ 1/2 tablespoonful butter .01
+ 1 egg .03
+ -- .05
+
+ 1/2 tablespoonful flour (see croquettes, page 293)
+ 1 pint cranberries .09
+ Sweet potatoes left from day before, cut in strips and
+ browned (see page 206) .00
+
+BROWN BETTY PUDDING
+
+ Apples from day before .00
+ Molasses and crumbs .05
+ -- .05
+ --
+ Cost of second dinner .54
+
+
+THIRD DAY'S DINNER
+
+ Soup made from carcass of turkey .00
+
+CHICKEN SOUFFLE (page 190).
+
+ 1 cup turkey meat .00
+
+SAUCE TO MIX IT
+
+ 1 tablespoonful butter .02
+ 1 cup milk .04
+ 3 eggs .09
+ Other ingredients .02
+ -- .17
+
+BAKED MACARONI
+
+ 1/2 lb. macaroni .04
+ Cheese .05
+ -- .09
+
+COTTAGE PUDDING
+
+ 1 egg .03
+ 1/2 cup sugar .01
+ 1/2 cup milk .02
+ 1 tablespoonful butter .03
+ Baking powder .01
+ -- .10
+
+CHOCOLATE SAUCE (page 447).
+
+ 3 oz. chocolate .08
+ 1/2 cup sugar .02
+ -- .10
+ --
+ Cost of third day's dinner .46
+
+
+
+FOURTH DAY'S DINNER
+
+ 1 codfish steak, 1 lb. .10
+ 4 smelts for garnishing .10
+ -- .20
+
+CHARTREUSE OF CHICKEN (page 190).
+
+ 1 cup rice .04
+ White sauce .07
+ What is left of turkey including giblets .00
+ Boiled potatoes .05
+ Scalloped tomatoes .15
+ Salad of water-cresses .05
+ Bread pudding .10
+ -- .46
+ --
+ Cost of fourth day's dinner .66
+
+ First day $1.91
+ Second day .54
+ Third day .46
+ Fourth day .66
+ Extras for bread, seasonings, etc. .30
+ ----
+ Total $3.87
+ Average per day 96-3/4 cents.
+
+The turkey in this case gave three cupfuls of chopped meat
+after the dinner of the first day. Any kind of meat can be
+made into the same dishes, and will be liked if the meat is
+chopped very fine, is well seasoned, and made creamy by
+using enough sauce.
+
+
+
+
+WASTEFULNESS
+
+
+As a rule the family life of America does not represent
+opulence, yet it has become a familiar saying that a French
+family could live on what an American family throws away.
+Again, it is said that in American kitchens half the provisions
+are spoiled and the other half wasted. There is no need
+to-day of being open to such accusations. At small expense
+a woman can have the benefit of lessons in cooking-schools,
+and should not be accepted as a cook until she has some
+knowledge of the duties, and is qualified to bear that name.
+The gage of a woman's rank in her profession can be definitely
+determined by what she wastes or utilizes, and the high wages
+paid a first-class cook are often saved by the intelligent
+use she makes of all her materials. Many of her best entrees
+are but a combination of odds and ends which another cook
+would throw away. Her delicious sauce, which gives a very
+ordinary dish that requisite something which makes it highly
+esteemed, may be but the blending of many flavors obtained
+from little scraps.
+
+The waste in foods need be so small as practically to have
+no waste material; not a crumb of bread, a grain of sugar, a
+bit of butter, a scrap of meat or fat, a piece of vegetable
+or leaf of salad, but can be utilized with profit. The soup
+pot is a receptacle for everything too small for other uses,
+and from this source can be drawn seasonings which will give
+richness and flavor to innumerable dishes, which are greatly
+improved by using stock instead of milk or water in their
+preparation.
+
+
+
+
+HOW TO UTILIZE WHAT SOME COOKS THROW AWAY
+
+
+ [Sidenote: Bread.]
+
+Trim such pieces of cut bread as will do for toast into
+uniform shape and serve at the next breakfast. Smaller
+pieces cut into croutons (page 81) for garnishing or for
+soup. Save unshapely pieces for bread pudding, Brown Betty,
+or stuffings. Save every scrap of bread for crumbs, to use
+for breading croquettes, chops, scallop dishes, etc. It is
+well to have two kinds of crumbs, using the white ones for
+the outside of fried articles, as they give a better color.
+To prepare the crumbs, separate the crumb from the crusts of
+bread and dry each of them slowly, on separate tins, on the
+shelf of the range. When dry, roll, sift and place them in
+glass preserve-jars until wanted.
+
+ [Sidenote: Fat.]
+
+Clarify all beef fat and drippings, the grease which rises
+on soup stock, and fat from poultry, and keep in a clean jar
+or tin pail for use in frying; it is preferable to lard (see
+"frying," pages 72 and 59). Mutton, turkey, and smoked meat
+fat has too strong a flavor to be used for frying, but save
+it with other fat that may be unsuitable for frying, and
+when six pounds are collected make it into hard soap (page
+259).
+
+Use the marrow of beef bones on toast for a luncheon entree
+(page 159), or use it with bread to make balls for soup
+(page 94).
+
+Grill wings and legs of fowls that are left over (page 188)
+for luncheon, or stuff the legs as directed (page 188). If
+the sinews are removed from the legs when the fowl is drawn,
+as directed (page 180), the meat of the leg will be as good
+as that of the second joint.
+
+Use a ham bone for improving bean soup. Use the carcasses of
+fowls and the bones from roasts for making soup.
+
+Try out chop bones and other meat taken from the plates for
+soap fat.
+
+ [Sidenote: Tough Pieces.]
+
+Chop the tough ends of steak very fine, season, and form
+them into balls or cakes, saute or broil them, and serve for
+breakfast or luncheon (see "Hamburg steaks," page 151).
+
+ [Sidenote: Small Pieces, Cold Meats.]
+
+Cut pieces of white meat into dice or strips, mix it with a
+white sauce, turn it into a flat dish, make a border of
+pointed croutons, sprinkle over the top a little chopped
+parsley, and garnish with hard-boiled egg; or mix the meat
+with aspic jelly in a mold and serve cold with salad.
+
+Mix dark meats of any kind with a brown sauce, and garnish
+with lettuce leaves, hard-boiled eggs, and croutons. Any
+kind of cold meat may be chopped and used in an omelet, or
+combined with rice and tomatoes for a scallop. For cold
+mutton see "Ragout of Mutton" (page 165).
+
+ [Sidenote: Eggs.]
+
+Save egg-shells to clear soup, jellies, or coffee. Boiled
+eggs that are left return to the fire and boil them hard to
+use for garnishing, to mix with salad, or to make golden
+toast (page 270) for luncheon. Cold poached eggs can be
+boiled hard and used in the same way. Cold fried or
+scrambled eggs can be chopped and mixed with minced meat,
+and will much improve it.
+
+When an egg is opened for the white alone, drop the yolk
+carefully into a cup, cover the cup with a wet cloth, and
+keep it in the ice-box until wanted. When whites are left
+over make a small angel cake (page 467), angel ice cream
+(page 497), kisses (page 475), or cover any dessert with
+meringue, or serve a meringue sauce (page 448) with the next
+dessert, or make a meat souffle without yolks (page 190).
+
+ [Sidenote: General Odds and Ends.]
+
+Everything too small to utilize in other ways put in the
+soup pot, and from this can be drawn sauces and seasoning
+for minces, scallops, etc., that will often be better than
+specially prepared stock.
+
+ [Sidenote: Cereals.]
+
+Oatmeal, hominy, cracked wheat, and other cereals which
+are left over can be added next day to the fresh stock, for
+they are improved by long boiling and do not injure the new
+supply, or such as is left can be molded in large or in small
+forms, and served cold with cream, or milk and sugar. In warm
+weather cereals are nicer cold than hot. Cold hominy and mush,
+cut into squares and fried, so that a crisp crust is formed
+on both sides,--also hominy or farina, rolled into balls
+and fried,--are good used in place of a vegetable or as a
+breakfast dish.
+
+Any of the cereals make good pancakes, or a small amount
+added to the ordinary pancake batter improves it.
+
+Cold rice can be added to soup, or made into croquettes, or
+used in a scallop dish, or mixed with minced meat and egg
+and fried like an omelet. Cold rice pudding can be cut into
+rounded pieces with a spoon and served again on a flat dish;
+this may be covered with whipped cream or flavored whipped
+white of egg.
+
+ [Sidenote: Vegetables.]
+
+A small amount of vegetables left over may go into the soup,
+or may be mixed with a ragout. Peas, tomatoes, or beans can
+be put in an omelet. A number of vegetables mixed together
+can be used for a salad. Cauliflower broken into flowerets,
+covered with white sauce, and sprinkled with grated cheese,
+makes "cauliflower _au gratin_," a dish which is much liked.
+
+The coarse stalks and roots of celery make a good vegetable
+dish when cut in pieces and boiled, or they make a good
+cream-of-celery soup. The leaves are valuable in the soup
+pot for flavor; also are useful for garnishing.
+
+ [Sidenote: Sour Milk.]
+
+Sour milk makes cottage cheese, or makes good biscuits.
+
+For uses of stale cakes see page 411.
+
+For jellies left over see page 418.
+
+ [Sidenote: Fruits.]
+
+When fruits show signs of deterioration, stew them at once
+instead of letting them decay. See compotes. Stew apple
+parings and cores to a pulp and strain; this will make a
+jelly which, spread on apple tart, greatly improves it.
+
+Boil lemon and orange peels in sugar, and dry as directed,
+page 527, for candied peels.
+
+ [Sidenote: Cheese.]
+
+Grate cheese which becomes dry and use for _gratin_ dishes
+or soups; or it can be served with crackers the same as
+though in its original shape.
+
+
+
+
+EMERGENCIES
+
+
+There is to-day such a variety of well-preserved foods that
+a store-closet provided with these articles may be almost
+the equivalent of a full larder. With such a resource the
+housekeeper can meet without embarrassment the emergencies
+that may arise in any household, however well ordered. In
+the country, where tradespeople are difficult to reach, it
+will be especially useful at such times. The articles sealed
+in glass jars seem the most wholesome, and are sometimes so
+well preserved as to be a very good substitute for the fresh
+ones. Salted meats and fish are distinctive foods, which are
+occasionally very acceptable, and the dessicated foods are
+beyond suspicion of unwholesomeness. A few suggestions are
+offered of how to utilize some of the articles which can be
+recommended. Many of the soups are excellent; chicken gumbo is
+particularly good. Extract of beef can be quickly made into
+soup, beef-tea, or aspic jelly (page 322). Canned salmon and
+chicken, either of them, can be heated and covered with a
+white sauce, or be used for salad, or the salmon may be
+broiled and covered with a maitre d'hotel sauce (page 286).
+
+Potted meats spread on toast make excellent canapes for luncheon
+(page 368). Shrimps make a salad, or in a chafing-dish can be
+prepared _a la Newburg_ (page 333). Of the salted and smoked
+meats are ham, bacon, dried tongue, chipped beef, codfish,
+smoked salmon, and mackerel, all of which are much esteemed as
+breakfast dishes, and may be offered at luncheon or supper.
+Of the vegetables, string-beans and flageolets make good
+salads. Asparagus makes a good extra course served alone.
+Tomatoes, the cheapest of all, and perhaps the most useful,
+will make soup, sauces, a scallop dish, or may be added to an
+omelet, macaroni, or rice. Pilot bread, toasted bread in
+slices, and rusks make delicious cream-toasts for luncheon
+or supper. Noodles or macaroni boiled plain for a vegetable,
+or mixed with any sauce, tomatoes, or cheese. Cheese is
+useful for canapes (pages 368-371), cheese souffle (page
+370), macaroni, etc. There are varieties of plain and fancy
+cracker biscuits which can be used in the place of cake.
+Plum-puddings wrapped in tin-foil will keep indefinitely.
+The canned whole apples can be used for dumplings (page 429)
+or pies. California apricots or cherries around a form of
+plain boiled rice, hominy, or other cereal, make a dessert;
+peaches make a shortcake (page 443); jams make delicious tarts,
+or, served alone with cracker biscuits, are a sufficient
+dessert for luncheon. Plain boiled rice may be used as a
+vegetable in place of potatoes; or, sweetened and mixed with
+a few raisins, or served with stewed prunes, makes a dessert.
+
+There are prepared flours from which biscuits may be quickly
+made; prepared buckwheat which makes good pancakes for supper
+or for breakfast. A few cans of condensed milk should be in
+the store-room for use in case of real necessity only; it
+answers very well for puddings, sweet dishes, or chocolate.
+
+Outside the store-room supplies, eggs furnish a variety of
+dishes quickly prepared. Eggs _a l'aurore_, or _Bourguignonne_,
+omelets with peas, tomatoes, mushrooms, minced meat, etc., are
+for luncheon, and cheese omelets, sweet omelets, and souffles
+for dinner dishes.
+
+It is well to have fondant (page 513) in close jars ready
+for icing cakes or for bonbons, candied fruits for sweets or
+for ornamenting desserts, ginger and brandied peaches to
+serve with ice-cream. Lady-fingers are easily made, and will
+keep in a cracker-box indefinitely. If these are at hand, a
+Charlotte russe is quickly made, and is one of the simplest
+and most acceptable light desserts.
+
+There are olives, gherkins, and chow-chow for _hors d'oeuvres_.
+There are catsups and condiments in variety to make barbecues
+(page 331), or to make cold meats acceptable.
+
+The growing plant, the globe of gold fish, the bird-cage
+partly concealed with branches, may be utilized for table
+decoration. As circumstances alter cases, there are many
+expedients to which a housekeeper may resort in supplying
+deficiencies which might not be in rule, were the occasion a
+formal one. The chafing-dish on the luncheon or supper-table,
+or a dish more appropriate to a different meal, would not only
+be excused, but perhaps give to an embarrassing occasion the
+pleasant feature of informality.
+
+
+
+
+
+THINGS TO REMEMBER
+
+
+ [Sidenote: Eggs.]
+
+A dash of salt added to the whites of eggs makes them whip
+better.
+
+Not a speck of the yolk must get into the whites which are
+to be whipped.
+
+Fold the whipped whites into any mixture rather than stir
+them in, as the latter method breaks the air cells.
+
+Break eggs one at a time into a saucer, so any can be
+rejected if necessary and the mixture not be spoiled.
+
+Add a tablespoonful of water to an egg used for crumbing in
+order to remove the stringiness.
+
+Use a double boiler for milk.
+
+ [Sidenote: Milk.]
+
+Milk is scalded when the water in the lower pan boils.
+
+A pinch of bi-carbonate of soda mixed with tomato before
+milk or cream is added prevents the milk from curdling.
+
+With sour milk, or molasses, use soda instead of baking
+powder.
+
+ [Sidenote: Butter.]
+
+Milk and butter should be kept in closely covered vessels,
+as they readily absorb flavor and odor from other articles.
+
+Butter added slowly in small bits to creamy mixtures, or
+sauces, prevents a greasy line forming.
+
+ [Sidenote: Crumbs.]
+
+Crumbs grated directly from the loaf give a more delicate
+color than dried crumbs to fried articles.
+
+Dried crumbs absorb more moisture, and are better for watery
+dishes.
+
+Crumbs spread over the tops of dishes should be mixed evenly
+with melted butter over the fire; this is a better method
+than having lumps of butter dotted over the crumbs after
+they are spread.
+
+When the sauce bubbles through the crumbs on top of a
+scallop dish, the cooking is completed.
+
+ [Sidenote: Meats.]
+
+Meat should not be washed. It can be cleaned by rubbing with
+a wet cloth, or by scraping with a knife.
+
+Drippings are better than water for basting meats.
+
+Meats should not be pierced while cooking.
+
+Soak salt fish with the skin side up over night. Change the
+water several times.
+
+To skim sauces, draw the saucepan to the side of the fire,
+throw in a teaspoonful of cold water, and the grease will
+rise so that it can be easily taken off.
+
+A few drops of onion juice improve made-over meat dishes;
+not enough need be used to give a pronounced onion flavor.
+
+ [Sidenote: Drippings.]
+
+The skimming from soups, drippings from any beef roasts,
+and trimmings from any beef, serve the same uses as lard,
+cottolene, or butter.
+
+ [Sidenote: Onion Juice.]
+
+To extract onion juice, press the raw surface of an onion
+against a grater, move it slightly, and the juice will run
+off the point of the grater.
+
+ [Sidenote: Chopping Suet.]
+
+Chop suet in a cool place, and sprinkle it with flour to
+prevent its oiling and sticking together. Remove the membrane
+before chopping it.
+
+ [Sidenote: Chopping or Pounding Almonds.]
+
+Add a few drops of rose-water to almonds to prevent their
+oiling when chopped or pounded.
+
+To loosen grated peel, or other articles, from the grater,
+strike the grater sharply on the table.
+
+ [Sidenote: Mixing.]
+
+When mixing a liquid with a solid material, add but little
+liquid at a time and stir constantly to prevent lumping.
+
+When adding cornstarch, arrowroot, or any starchy material
+to hot liquid, first mix it with enough cold water, or milk,
+to make it fluid; pour it in slowly and stir constantly
+until it becomes clear.
+
+ [Sidenote: Gelatine.]
+
+Soak gelatine in a cool place for an hour in cold water or
+milk. It will then quickly dissolve in hot liquid and have no
+odor. If jellied dishes do not stiffen, add more gelatine;
+boiling down will not effect the purpose.
+
+ [Sidenote: Molds.]
+
+Grease molds evenly with butter or oil, using a brush. Lumps
+of butter on the side of molds leave an uneven surface on
+the article cooked or molded in them. Molds for jellies are
+not greased.
+
+Invert a dish over a mold before turning it, so that the
+form will not break; also, place it in exactly the right
+spot before lifting off the mold.
+
+ [Sidenote: Strainers.]
+
+It is desirable to pass all liquid mixtures through a
+strainer to make them perfectly smooth.
+
+ [Sidenote: To keep Dishes Warm.]
+
+To keep dishes warm until time of serving, place the
+saucepan in a pan of hot water.
+
+ [Sidenote: Flavoring.]
+
+Any flavoring is added after the mixture is cooked,
+excepting for baked dishes. Wine increases the taste of
+salt, therefore, where wine is used for flavoring, very
+little salt should be put in until after the wine is used,
+when more can be added if necessary.
+
+Dishes which are to be frozen need an extra amount of
+sweetening.
+
+ [Sidenote: Raisins.]
+
+Flour raisins before adding them to a mixture in order to
+prevent their settling to the bottom.
+
+ [Sidenote: Baking.]
+
+Never slam the oven door, or jar any rising material while
+it is baking.
+
+Anything being cooked for the second time needs a hot oven.
+
+
+
+
+CARE OF UTENSILS
+
+
+A very essential thing in doing nice cooking is to have clean
+utensils. The pans of a careless cook are encrusted outside
+and frequently inside with dry, hard grease, which ordinary
+washing will not remove; the broilers are black with burned
+grease, and the ovens are in the same state. If one sees this
+condition of things, or finds a woman putting a saucepan on
+the hot coals, one needs no further commentary on her work.
+The saying "You can judge a workman by his tools" is very true
+in this case. No good cook will abuse her utensils, or expect
+to get well-flavored sauces from saucepans which are not
+immaculately clean. To keep utensils clean, it is necessary to
+wash them thoroughly, after they are used, with soda to cut
+the grease, and with sapolio to scour off any blackened spots.
+Sand or ashes may be used on the outside of iron pots. The
+outside as well as the inside of every utensil should be
+clean, and never be allowed to approach that state where
+only scraping will clean them. When utensils do reach that
+unwholesome condition, the coat of burned and blackened grease
+can be removed only by boiling in a strong solution of sal
+soda for an hour or more, using a large boiler which will hold
+enough water to entirely cover them. After the grease is
+softened, it can be scraped off, the articles then scoured
+with sand, ashes, or sapolio.[61-*] This is a good day's work
+for a charwoman, which will change the aspect of things in the
+kitchen, and may awaken a pride for cleanliness where it has
+not before existed.
+
+ [Sidenote: Tins, Sieves, Woodenware.]
+
+Tins should be well dried before being put away, or they will
+rust. Sieves should not be washed with soap, but cleaned with
+a brush, using soda if necessary. Wooden ware should not be
+put near the fire to dry, or it will warp or crack.
+
+ [Sidenote: Arrangement of Utensils in Closet.]
+
+An orderly arrangement of utensils in the kitchen closet will
+greatly facilitate quick work. Everything of the same class
+should be in the same group: Saucepans and gridirons hung on
+hooks, measuring-cups, iron spoons, and strainers also hung in
+a place very convenient to hand. Molds and baking tins should
+be placed where they will not get bent or jammed. Practise
+strictly the system of a place for everything and everything
+in its place.
+
+ [Sidenote: Supply-Closet.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Refrigerator.]
+
+Order in the supply-closet is also necessary. Have a number
+of tin boxes, and of glass preserve-jars of different sizes, to
+hold everything large and small in the way of food supplies.
+Stand them in rows, each one plainly labeled, that no time may
+be lost in searching for the article needed. The cost of these
+receptacles is small, while their use is not only a great
+convenience, but also a protection from dust and insects.
+A closet so kept is also easily supervised. In every large
+and well-ordered kitchen perfect order and system prevail.
+Were it not so, a hopeless confusion would soon ensue. In
+small households the same nicety can be the rule, and if the
+mistress makes a weekly inspection, order will soon become a
+tradition of the household, and be maintained without demur.
+The refrigerator must be kept scrupulously clean and dry to
+insure wholesome food, and its waste-pipe kept freely open.
+This should not be connected directly with the general waste-pipe
+of the house. Cases of diphtheria have been directly traced
+to this cause. There should be a free use of soda in washing
+out the refrigerator to keep it free from taint. As butter
+and milk readily absorb the flavors of other articles they
+should be kept by themselves, or with only the eggs, in the
+small compartment. Lemons or other fruit are particularly to
+be excluded. Fish may be laid directly on ice, the skin side
+down; but beefsteaks or other uncooked meats lose flavor if
+placed in direct contact with ice.
+
+ [Sidenote: Coal and Range.]
+
+Proper care of the range and intelligent use of the coal are
+also essential factors of success in cooking. If the drafts
+are left open too long, the greatest heat is often lost
+before cooking begins. If they are closed the moment the
+coal is kindled, the heat will remain steady for a long
+time. When the coals look whitish, they are becoming
+exhausted and beginning to fall to ashes, and this condition
+arrives quickly when rapid combustion takes place from open
+draughts. Piling the coal above the level of the fire-box is
+another error generally practised by ignorant cooks. The
+heat does not increase from the depth of coal, but from the
+breadth of surface. Piling up the coal, in a mound which
+nearly touches the top of the range, results in heating the
+iron red-hot, warping the lids out of shape, destroying the
+saucepans, and very likely burning the food. No articles
+cooked on top of the range require excessive heat, and are
+usually spoiled by too rapid cooking.
+
+ [Sidenote: Ovens.]
+
+When the ovens do not bake on the bottom or on the top, it
+means a layer of ashes shuts off the heat. The ashes are
+easily removed from the top, but to lift the plate from the
+bottom of the oven and clean it out requires a cold range,
+so this is often neglected or not understood, while the cook
+wonders why the bread will not bake on the bottom, and why
+the cake is spoiled.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[61-*] It can also be easily removed by soaking in a solution of
+Babbitt's lye--one tablespoonful to several gallons of water.--M. R.
+
+
+
+
+PART II
+
+RECEIPTS
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+METHODS OF COOKING EXPLAINED
+
+
+BOILING
+
+ [Sidenote: Simmering.]
+
+There is an erroneous impression that articles cook faster
+when the water is boiling violently, but this is not the case;
+the ebullition is caused by the escaping steam, which is lost
+heat, and the water at this time is at 212 deg. (except in high
+elevations), however fast or slow it may be boiling. If,
+however, a little sugar or salt is added to the water it
+increases its density, and the heat rises to 224 deg. before the
+steam escapes. The heat can be raised also by covering the
+pot and confining as much of the steam as possible. Where
+violently boiling water is recommended, as for rice and green
+peas, the object is not greater heat, but to keep the grains
+and peas separated by the turbulence of the water. There is
+waste of fuel in unnecessarily fast boiling, and economy can
+be easily practised here, especially where gas is used, as the
+boiling point, once reached, can be maintained with but little
+heat. Where the juices and color are to be retained, the
+articles are put into already boiling salted water. The
+albumen on the surface is then at once coagulated and the
+juices shut in. Where the object is to extract the juices, as
+for soups, they must be cut into pieces so as to expose more
+surface, and put into cold water, and the heat of the water
+gradually raised to the simmering point only. The slow, long
+cooking obtained in simmering water best destroys the fiber of
+meat, and tough pieces cooked in this way are made tender. To
+render tough pieces tender, the meat is first put into boiling
+water in order to fix the albumen on the surface, the heat
+then reduced, and the cooking done at the simmering point,
+which is 185 deg.. Hence, water at different stages of heat is
+used, according to the object in view, and the result is as
+definite as that of the different degrees of heat in an
+oven, so this point should not be considered as of little
+importance.
+
+The flavor of meats and vegetables is volatile, and much of
+it can be carried off by escaping steam, as is demonstrated
+by the odors which sometimes pervade the house. To prevent
+the latter, and also to make the article tender and retain
+all its flavor, the pot should be covered and the water kept
+at the simmering point only.
+
+ [Sidenote: Vegetables.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Meat.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Fish.]
+
+An exception to this rule is made in the cases of cabbage
+and cauliflower. These strong-flavored vegetables will be
+much less objectionable when cooked in rapidly boiling water
+in open vessels (see page 212). Green vegetables should be
+boiled in open vessels, as high heat destroys their color.
+All meats should be well tied and skewered, to keep them in
+good shape while boiling, and, when possible, be placed with
+the bone side up, so if any scum settles it will not spoil
+the appearance of the dish. For fish a little vinegar should
+be put into the water, as it hardens the meat and helps to
+prevent its falling apart (see page 113).
+
+Salt water is used where the object is to keep the flavors in,
+fresh water where it is to draw them out as in soup, where the
+salt is not added until the cooking is completed. The rule of
+not piercing meat, thus letting out its juices, applies to
+boiling as well as to other methods of cooking. Fifteen
+minutes to the pound is the rule for mutton or tender meat, a
+much longer or indefinite time for tough meat.
+
+Ham is done when the skin peels off easily.
+
+The scum should be taken off the pot when boiling meat.
+
+Milk boils at 196 deg. and easily burns, therefore it is safer to
+use a double boiler for anything containing milk. When using a
+double boiler, the liquid in the inner pan is scalded when the
+water in the outside vessel boils.
+
+
+BAKING
+
+ [Sidenote: Asbestos paper.]
+
+The baking of many articles is a more important matter than
+the mixing. There are no definite tests for ovens, therefore
+one has to learn by experience and careful watching the
+capabilities or faults of the ovens used. A common trouble is
+from not having them thoroughly cleaned of the ashes which
+settle under the ovens and prevent the heat reaching the
+bottom part. It is usual to have them hotter on the fire side.
+In this case it is necessary to turn frequently the articles
+being baked, or, where this cannot be done, to interpose a
+screen to protect them from burning. Asbestos paper, which is
+now sold at very low cost at house-furnishing stores, is a
+convenient thing to place against the side of the oven, or on
+the shelf of the oven if the excessive heat is on top. A tin,
+or a piece of brown paper, will, however, ordinarily serve the
+purpose. Directions for baking bread and cake are given at the
+heads of those chapters.
+
+To lower the heat of an oven, if closing the damper is not
+sufficient, open the lid of the range over the oven a little
+way. Sometimes a pan of cold water put on the shelf of the
+oven will effect the purpose. When baking meats, the oven
+should be very hot at first, and after the meat is seared
+the heat should be lowered, so the cooking will be done
+slowly.
+
+
+ROASTING
+
+Roasting is done before the fire, and should not be confused
+with baking, which is done in the oven. Roasted meats have a
+distinctly better flavor than baked ones. The latter are
+likely to taste of smoke unless the oven is frequently opened
+for basting, as few of them are sufficiently ventilated to
+free them of smoke and steam. Baking is the method generally
+employed in small households, but where the grate of the range
+is sufficiently large, and the front can be exposed, it will
+be found no more trouble to roast than to bake the meats, and
+the improvement will well repay the trouble of changing a
+habit. Tin ovens (Dutch ovens) are made for this use, with a
+clockwork to turn the spit, so the only care is to baste,
+which has to be done in either case, and to keep the fire
+bright, which is done by adding a few coals at a time if
+necessary.
+
+The meat should at first be placed near the coals to sear
+the outside, and then be drawn back where it will cook at
+lower heat.
+
+
+BROILING
+
+Meat cooked by broiling is exposed to a greater heat than
+in any other manner of cooking, and to prevent its burning,
+requires constant watching. Meats for broiling are cut thin,
+and much surface is exposed, therefore they must be at once
+exposed to intense heat to sear the surface and retain the
+juices. Frequent turning not only prevents burning, but
+gives slower cooking and also prevents the grease dripping
+into the fire, making a smoke which destroys the flavor of
+the meat. The rule for broiling is to have bright coals
+without flame, drafts open to carry off smoke, and meat
+turned as often as one counts ten (see broiling beefsteak,
+page 156). In this way the result will be satisfactory, the
+meat will be puffed and elastic from the confined steam of the
+juices, will have a seared crust, and the rest evenly cooked
+through and of the same color. When the puffed appearance
+of broiled meats begins to disappear it means the moisture
+is evaporating through the crust, which will leave it hard
+and dry.
+
+Chops wrapped tight in oiled paper before being broiled are
+especially good (see page 166). The paper will not burn if
+turned as directed above.
+
+Although broiling with a double wire-broiler over or under
+bright coals is the approved way, it can be accomplished in
+a hot pan when coals are not accessible. In this instance a
+frying-pan is heated very hot, then rubbed with suet to
+prevent the meat from sticking, and the meat is turned
+frequently as in the other method. This manner of broiling
+is recommended only as an expedient, as hot iron does not
+give the same result as hot coals.
+
+
+BRAISING
+
+Meat cooked by braising is shut in a closely-covered pot with
+a few slices of salt pork (laid under the meat to prevent its
+sticking to the pot), a mixture of vegetables, cut into dice,
+a little soup stock or water, and a bouquet of herbs, and
+cooked slowly in the confined steam. This method of cooking
+tough or dry meats makes them tender and of good flavor.
+Braised dishes are much esteemed.
+
+
+FRICASSEEING
+
+Meat cooked in this way is first sauted to keep in its
+juices, then stewed until tender and served in a white or
+brown gravy, made from the liquor in the pot in which the
+meat is stewed. Toasted bread and sometimes dumplings are
+served with it. In the latter case it is called a pot-pie.
+
+
+SAUTEING
+
+A little fat is put in a shallow pan; when this is hot, the
+articles to be cooked are laid in and browned on both sides.
+This manner of cooking is by many miscalled frying, and is
+largely responsible for the disrepute of frying, as sauted
+articles are likely to be greasy and indigestible.
+
+
+FRYING
+
+ [Sidenote: Heating the fat.]
+
+ [Sidenote: To extinguish fire from grease.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Spattering.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Color of fried articles.]
+
+Frying is cooking by immersion in very hot fat. The success of
+frying depends upon the fat being sufficiently hot, and enough
+fat being used to completely cover the articles cooked in it.
+A kettle for frying should be kept for that purpose alone, and
+started with enough fat to fill it two thirds full. Olive-oil,
+lard, cottolene, drippings, or any mixture of them, serve the
+purpose. When properly used but little fat is consumed, and
+the pot can be easily replenished with the right quantity for
+its next use. Each time, after using the fat, a slice of raw
+potato should be dropped in to clarify it; it should then be
+strained through a cloth and returned to the pot, be covered
+when cold, and set away until again wanted. This fat can be
+used for potatoes, and anything which is coated with egg and
+crumbs. If fish without this coating are fried in it, it will
+then be unsuitable for other purposes. A pot of fat will
+with care last for months, but should be clarified as often
+as necessary (see below). When the fat is to be used, the
+frying-kettle should be placed on the range an hour before
+the time it is needed. It will then become gradually hot, and
+at the right moment can be quickly raised to the smoking heat
+needed for frying. It takes some time for fat to reach this
+temperature; and if this preparatory measure is not taken, a
+cook, when hurried, is likely to use it before the right
+heat is attained, or to place it on the open fire, which is
+attended with great danger. Many persons are seriously burned
+from this imprudence. When fat boils over and takes fire, the
+best extinguisher is ashes. If the cook's clothes take fire,
+the best thing to do is to wrap the skirts together and roll
+on the floor until assistance comes. With ordinary care there
+need be no accidents. Dropping grease on the range or clothes
+can be avoided by holding a tin plate under the frying-basket
+when removing it from the kettle. When the articles to be
+fried are prepared, the wire basket should be dipped into the
+fat to grease it, the articles laid in, a few at a time,
+without touching one another, the basket hung on an iron or
+wooden spoon, and slowly lowered into the fat. Too many
+articles must not be put in at the same time, or the heat of
+the fat will be too much reduced. Spattering is caused by
+water contained in the articles being turned to steam and
+throwing out the fat; hence, one reason for making them very
+dry and of lowering them gradually into the fat. When fat is
+sufficiently hot it at once sears the outside of everything
+placed in it, and forms a crust through which the grease
+cannot penetrate and be absorbed by the food. Egg and crumbs
+are used for the purpose of thus encrusting the outside of
+made dishes, like croquettes. The mistake should not be made
+of leaving articles too long in the fat; a lemon color, which
+is the one desired, is quickly attained. When lifted from the
+fat, the basket should be held for a few minutes, or until
+through dripping, over the kettle, which is the hottest place
+to be found, the articles then placed on a brown paper without
+touching one another, and set in the open oven, or on the hot
+shelf, until perfectly dry. If so treated the grease will
+evaporate, and the articles become so free from it as not to
+leave a mark on the napkin on which they are served. Articles
+properly prepared and fried in this manner can be no more
+unwholesome than meat which is basted with drippings. The fat
+should be given time to again rise to the smoking heat before
+a second basketful of articles is immersed. When frying
+articles which take a little time to cook, the pot should be
+drawn to a cooler part of the range, after the first few
+minutes. The coating will then be formed, and the cooking can
+proceed more slowly, and the articles will not brown too much
+before they are cooked. Croquettes, being made of cooked meat,
+need to remain in the fat only long enough to color and become
+heated.
+
+[Illustration: FRYING KETTLE AND BASKET.
+
+ 1. Frying Kettle.
+ 2. Wire Basket and Iron Spoon for lifting the Frying Basket. (See
+ page 72.)]
+
+
+TO CLARIFY FAT
+
+ [Sidenote: Bubbling fat.]
+
+When fat becomes discolored and unfit for use, stir into it
+when melted one half teaspoonful of baking soda and a quart of
+water. Let it boil for a little time, take off the scum that
+rises, and set the pot aside until cold. Remove the cake of
+grease, scrape off all the impurities, put it again on the
+fire, where it will melt but will not be agitated, and let it
+remain undisturbed until all the water has evaporated and the
+remaining impurities have settled to the bottom; then pour off
+the clear grease. When fat bubbles it means there is water in
+it, not that it is hot.
+
+
+TO TRY OUT SUET AND OTHER FATS
+
+Cut the fat into pieces, place it in a shallow pan over
+moderate heat until the fat is melted, then strain it through
+a cloth. There will be no odor from the fat if not placed
+where it becomes too hot. All kinds of fats are good for
+frying except mutton fat, turkey fat, and fat from smoked
+meats; these can be used for making soap, as directed on page
+259.
+
+
+TO PREPARE ARTICLES FOR FRYING BY COVERING THEM WITH EGG AND
+CRUMBS
+
+ [Sidenote: The Crumbs.]
+
+All scraps of bread should be saved for crumbs, as directed on
+page 51, the crusts being separated from the white part, then
+dried, rolled, and sifted. The brown crumbs are good for the
+first coating, the white ones for the outside, as they give
+better color. Where a very delicate color is wanted, bread
+grated from a stale loaf or rubbed through a coarse sieve
+gives better results; the fresh crumbs need not be very fine.
+Cracker crumbs give a smooth surface and are better for
+oysters than bread crumbs, but for most things bread crumbs
+are preferable. For meats a little salt and pepper, and for
+sweet articles a little sugar, should be mixed with the
+crumbs. Crumbs left on the board should be dried, sifted, and
+kept to be used again.
+
+ [Sidenote: The Egg.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Molding.]
+
+The whole egg is generally used. The white alone will serve,
+but not the yolk alone, as it is the albumen which is needed.
+The albumen quickly coagulates when put into the hot fat, and
+forms a coating through which the grease will not penetrate.
+To one egg is added one tablespoonful of water, so as to make
+it thin enough to run and remove the stringiness of the egg;
+these are beaten lightly together, but should not be foamy, as
+bubbles break and leave holes for the grease to enter. Where
+delicate color is wanted, it is better to use the white of the
+egg only and fresh crumbs. Turn the crumbs on to a board; roll
+the articles first in the crumbs to dry them well, then place
+them in the beaten egg one at a time, and with a spoon pour
+the egg over and moisten them thoroughly; return them to the
+board, and completely cover them with crumbs. Soft, creamy
+mixtures like croquettes require delicate handling, and are
+easier to manage if first made into a ball,--molding them into
+shape being left until the second crumbing, at which time they
+can be rolled into cylindrical form and the ends flattened by
+dropping them lightly on the board. They will keep their shape
+better if, after being prepared, they are allowed to stand an
+hour or more before being fried. (See croquettes, page 293.)
+
+[Illustration: 1. PIECE OF MEAT LARDED. 2. LARDING NEEDLES.
+3. LARDOONS.]
+
+
+LARDING
+
+ [Sidenote: Cutting lardoons.]
+
+Larding is simply drawing small pieces of salt pork through
+the surface of meat. It is easily done, and so much improves
+lean, dry pieces of meat as to well repay the trouble. The
+pork for larding is best cut lengthwise with the rind, and
+that nearest the rind is the firmest. Cut it into slices, one
+quarter inch thick, and then into strips one quarter inch wide
+and two inches long. The lardoons can be made firmer by
+placing them on ice, but ordinarily this is not necessary. The
+larding needle holding a lardoon is pressed through the
+surface of the meat, taking a stitch about a quarter inch deep
+and an inch long, then drawn through, leaving the lardoon
+projecting on both sides. The stitches should be taken at
+regular intervals, so as to appear ornamental, and when all
+the lardoons are in they should be cut even. For birds or
+small pieces, the lardoons would of course be cut of a size to
+suit the needle used.
+
+
+DAUBING
+
+Daubing is cutting through the entire thickness of the meat
+in several places and inserting lardoons of salt pork. The
+cut is made with a thin, sharp knife.
+
+
+BONING
+
+ [Sidenote: Fowls.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Meats.]
+
+Cutting the meat free from the bones, leaving the meat whole,
+is called boning. This is easily done with a sharp-pointed
+knife, and requires but little practice to accomplish
+successfully. Directions for boning fowls are given on page
+181. Boned fowls are usually made into galantine, but they are
+also good when stuffed and pressed into natural shape, or to
+imitate a duck or a rabbit and served hot. The butcher will
+remove the bones from joints of meat when requested. Boned
+meats make an agreeable change, and in the case of shoulder
+pieces make them suitable to serve as roasts (see pages 163
+and 168). Chops with the bones removed, the tail ends wrapped
+around the meat and secured with wooden toothpicks or with
+small skewers until cooked, resemble in form filets mignons.
+
+
+MEASURING
+
+ [Sidenote: Measuring-cup.]
+
+Exact measurements are an important factor in the success of
+cooking, therefore a definite understanding of what a cupful
+or a spoonful means is requisite. A cupful means one half
+pint. A tin cup holding this amount is as necessary as a quart
+measure in every kitchen. They can be bought for ten cents
+apiece in any house-furnishing store. A spoonful of butter,
+lard, sugar, or flour means a rounding spoonful, as much
+rising above the spoon as is held in the bowl. A spoonful of
+salt or spices means only as much as the bowl holds, the top
+being smoothed off with a knife.[77-*] One half spoonful means
+the half of the contents of the bowl divided lengthwise. A
+heaping spoonful means as much as the spoon can be made to
+hold. A table giving comparative weights and measures is given
+on page 387.
+
+[Illustration: MEASURING CUP AND SPOONS.
+
+ 1. Tin measuring cup holding one half-pint.
+ 2. Spoonful of salt, pepper or spices.
+ 3. One half spoonful.
+ 4. Spoonful of flour, sugar, or butter.
+ 5. Heaping spoonful. (See page 77.)]
+
+
+STIRRING AND BEATING
+
+These two methods should not be confused. The object of
+stirring is to mix the materials. The spoon is held on the
+bottom of the dish, and the materials rubbed and pressed
+together as much as possible. It is not essential to always
+stir one way. The object of beating is to get air into the
+mixture to make it lighter, which is done by continuously
+lifting it up in the same way; therefore a beaten mixture
+must not be stirred, or the imprisoned bubbles of air will
+be broken and the result of the beating lost.
+
+
+HOW TO STONE OLIVES
+
+With a sharp-pointed knife cut through the olive to the
+stone on the blossom end and pare off the meat, turning the
+olive around three times, keeping the knife at not too sharp
+an angle close to the stone. The meat will then be in one
+curled piece, which can be pressed into its original shape
+again.
+
+
+HOW TO CUT BACON
+
+Place the bacon on a board with the rind down. With a very
+sharp knife slice the bacon very thin down to the rind, but
+do not try to cut through it. When enough slices are cut,
+run the knife under, keeping it close to the rind, and the
+slices will be free.
+
+[Illustration: CUTTING BACON. (SEE PAGE 78.)]
+
+
+HOW TO EXTRACT ONION JUICE
+
+Cut an onion across and press it against a coarse grater,
+moving it a very little; the juice will then run off the
+point of the grater.
+
+
+CARAMEL
+
+Caramel is used to color soup, gravies, etc., and serves
+also as a flavoring for desserts. It must be used with care
+for coloring, as it also sweetens. The flavor of caramel
+depends upon the degree to which the sugar is cooked before
+the water is added. It grows stronger as it becomes browner.
+
+Put one half cupful of granulated sugar and two tablespoonfuls
+of water into a granite-ware saucepan, stir until the sugar
+has melted, then let it cook without stirring until it has
+turned dark brown, but not black, then add one half cupful of
+hot water, and let it simmer until the sugar is dissolved and
+cooked to a thin syrup.
+
+
+TO MAKE ROUX
+
+Put one tablespoonful of butter into a saucepan. When it
+bubbles add one tablespoonful of flour and let them cook
+together for a few minutes, stirring all the time. If it is
+to be used as thickening for a white sauce or soup, do not
+let it color. If for brown soup or sauce, let it become
+brown. This amount is sufficient to thicken one cupful of
+milk or of stock, to make a sauce, or to thicken one pint or
+more of soup.
+
+Roux can be prepared and kept in jars ready for use. The
+proportion of equal quantities of butter and flour is usually
+taken, and is the rule, but in some cases double the flour is
+used. The flour cooked in this way gives a better result than
+when rubbed with the butter and stirred into the liquid.
+Cooking flour in hot fat seems to more surely burst the
+starch-grains, which removes the raw taste it is likely to
+have if cooked only in the boiling liquid.
+
+
+TO MARINATE
+
+Make a mixture in the proportion of three tablespoonfuls of
+vinegar to two of oil, one teaspoonful of salt, one quarter
+teaspoonful of pepper, one bay-leaf, one teaspoonful onion
+juice, and a sprig of parsley. Put it on a flat dish and
+lay any cooked or raw meat in the marinade for an hour or
+more before using, turning the pieces often. Enough flavor
+is absorbed to much improve meats or fish to be used for
+salads, fish to be fried or boiled, and other cases given in
+receipts. The onion juice may be omitted if desired.
+
+
+SALPICON
+
+A salpicon is a mixture of cooked meats, which are cut into
+dice and combined with a sauce, mushrooms, and truffles.
+Chicken, sweetbreads, and tongue mixed with mushrooms and
+truffles and moistened with a Bechamel sauce, is a combination
+often used. Salpicon is used in timbales, patties, and
+vol-au-vent. A mixture of fruits seasoned with sugar and wine
+is also called a salpicon.
+
+
+SEASONING AND FLAVORING.
+
+ [Sidenote: Condiments.]
+
+The savoriness of a dish can often be much enhanced by
+adding a few drops of Worcestershire sauce, of mushroom or
+tomato catsup, of kitchen bouquet, by a few celery seeds, a
+bay-leaf, or a sprig of some dried herb. A little tarragon
+vinegar or a few capers will often much improve a salad.
+
+ [Sidenote: Almonds.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Orange peel.]
+
+A half dozen chopped almonds will greatly improve a bread
+pudding or any other simple dessert. A few shreds of candied
+orange peel will give a delicious flavor to puddings, sauces,
+and cake.
+
+A flavor of almonds, orange- or rose-water, sherry, or
+maraschino, will be an agreeable change from vanilla, and
+much more wholesome.
+
+Some cooks feel they are called upon to do fancy cooking if
+expected to use a bay-leaf or an almond; others feel a receipt
+is extravagant or impracticable if it calls for anything in
+the line of flavors beyond salt and pepper, lemon juice,
+vanilla, or raisins; but there is no more extravagance in
+using different condiments than in using always the same,
+or those which from habit have established themselves in
+the favor of every housekeeper. None of the condiments are
+expensive, and so little is used at a time that one bottleful
+lasts a long time. All the flavoring extracts are the same
+price, and the expense of a few almonds is only nominal,
+therefore it is a pity not to have a variety of such articles
+in the dresser, and give variety to dishes by at least the
+very simple means of changing flavors. A cottage pudding
+with a little shredded orange peel, nuts, or cocoanut in it,
+or with a chocolate, wine, or meringue sauce, will be an
+agreeable change from the plain pudding with hard sauce. The
+same may be said of a corn-starch or a rice pudding, of a
+custard, and of many other things.
+
+
+CROUTONS AND CROUSTADES
+
+Croutons or crusts are used in pea, bean, and all cream
+soups, for garnishing all kinds of stewed dishes, and for
+any dish with which toast would be acceptable. When cut
+large and filled they are called croustades.
+
+To make croutons or croustades, cut bread into the desired
+shape and saute the pieces in hot butter, or dip them in
+melted butter and toast them carefully in the oven, turning
+frequently, so they will be evenly colored; or they may be
+fried in smoking-hot fat. They should be crisp and dry and
+the color of amber.
+
+They are made of various sizes and shapes to suit the uses
+they are to serve. For soups the bread is cut into cubes one
+quarter inch square or into fancy shapes; for garnishing meat
+dishes they are cut into diamonds, squares, triangles, and
+circles; for sippets to eat with boiled eggs, into strips one
+half inch wide and four inches long; for poached eggs, into
+circles four inches in diameter.
+
+ [Sidenote: For Soups.]
+
+To make croutons for soup, cut bread into slices one quarter
+of an inch thick, take off the crust, then cut it into strips
+one quarter of an inch wide and then across into even squares;
+or with vegetable cutters cut the sliced bread into fancy
+shapes.
+
+ [Sidenote: Triangles.]
+
+For triangles, cut a slice of bread one half inch thick,
+then into strips one and a quarter inches wide, then into
+pieces two or three inches long, then diagonally across.
+
+ [Sidenote: Pyramidal Pieces.]
+
+For pyramidal pieces, cut the bread into one inch squares
+and cut diagonally across the cube. When used for garnishing
+they may be moistened a little on one side with white of
+egg, and will then stick to the dish sufficiently to hold in
+place. A circle of pyramidal pieces makes a good border to
+inclose minced meat, creamed fish, etc.
+
+ [Sidenote: Circles.]
+
+Circles for poached eggs are cut with a biscuit cutter three
+inches in diameter, and may be toasted in the ordinary way
+if preferred.
+
+ [Sidenote: Boxes.]
+
+For boxes cut bread from which the crust has been removed
+into pieces two and a half inches thick, two and a half
+inches wide and three and a half inches long, then with a
+pointed knife cut a line around the inside one half of an
+inch from the edge and carefully remove the crumb, leaving a
+box with sides and bottom one half inch in thickness. The
+boxes may be cut round if preferred, using two sizes of
+biscuit cutters. They are browned the same as other
+croutons, and are used for creamed spinach, creamed chicken,
+creamed fish, etc.
+
+A five cent square loaf of bread cuts to good advantage.
+
+[Illustration: CROUTONS AND CROUSTADES. (SEE PAGE 81.)
+
+ 1. Sippets to use with boiled eggs.
+ 2. Pyramidal Pieces for Borders.
+ 3, 4, 6. Bread Boxes.
+ 5. Triangles for Garnishing.
+ 7. Croustade for Poached Egg, Creamed Meats, etc.
+ 8. Croutons for Soups.]
+
+
+CHARTREUSE
+
+Chartreuse is a liqueur made by the monks of the French
+monastery of Grande Chartreuse; but a class of dishes has
+also been given this name, where two or more foods are used
+one of which conceals the others. The story goes that on
+fast days the monks were thus able to indulge in forbidden
+food, and savory viands were hidden under cabbage or other
+severely plain articles. Chartreuses are made by lining a
+mold with rice, a vegetable, or a forcemeat, and filling the
+center with a different food. Two vegetables are sometimes
+so combined, but more often game or meats are inclosed in
+rice and served with a good sauce. (See illustration facing
+page 190.)
+
+ [Sidenote: En Bellevue.]
+
+Fruits are made into chartreuses by inclosing them in
+blanc-mange or puddings. When meats are molded in aspic
+jelly they are called "En Bellevue" as in this case they are
+not concealed.
+
+[Illustration: SOME USEFUL UTENSILS.
+
+ 1, 2. Small Pointed Knives for Vegetables, Boning, etc.
+ 3. Fluted Knife for cutting potato straws, or cutting vegetables into
+ fancy shapes.
+ 4. Tuller Knife. Useful for pastry and all work done on a board.
+ 5. Broad-bladed Knife or Spatula.
+ 6. Saw.
+ 7. Bread or Cake Knife.
+ 8, 9. Small Wooden Spoons.]
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[77-*] Cooking schools have recently adopted the rule of using
+even spoonfuls for every spoon measurement. This ensures great
+exactness.--M. R.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+SOUPS
+
+
+As nothing is easier than making good soups, they should be
+the first lesson in cooking.
+
+They are one of the most nutritious and inexpensive foods
+presented, and have a very wide range, extending from the
+clear, transparent soups, through many degrees of consistency,
+color and material, to the heavy varieties which contain
+enough nourishment for a meal in themselves. The pot-au-feu as
+managed in the families of the French peasantry furnishes
+their chief source of diet. The pot on the fire receives every
+bit of nutritious material of every kind; by slow cooking the
+juices and flavors are extracted, and a savory combination is
+made which is both pleasant to the taste and satisfying to the
+hunger.
+
+The stock-pot should be on every range, and its contents
+ever ready to be drawn upon, not only for soup, but for
+sauces, and for flavoring the numerous dishes which can be
+enriched and improved by stock.[84-*]
+
+The many kinds of soups are variations of the few kinds of
+stock.
+
+ [Sidenote: Brown Stock, see page 88.]
+
+The brown stock is made from beef, or from beef, veal, and
+fowl combined, and mixed vegetables.
+
+ [Sidenote: White Stock, see page 99.]
+
+White stock is made of veal and chicken together, or from
+veal alone, seasoned with onion, celery, white pepper, and
+salt, nothing being used which will give color.
+
+ [Sidenote: Chicken Consomme or Broth, see page 98.]
+
+Chicken stock is made from the fowl alone, and seasoned with
+celery, white pepper, and salt.
+
+ [Sidenote: Cream Soups, see page 105.]
+
+Cream soups are made without stock, the basis being
+vegetables boiled and mashed to a puree by being pressed
+through a colander or sieve, then mixed with cream or milk
+and seasoned to taste.
+
+ [Sidenote: Soup Meats.]
+
+The meats used for soups are: the lower or tough part of the
+round, the shin, and the neck pieces of beef, the knuckle of
+veal, and fowls. Mutton is not used except for mutton broth.
+A very little ham is sometimes used; game also gives good
+flavor.
+
+Bones contain gelatine and cause the stock to jelly when
+cold.
+
+ [Sidenote: Soup Vegetables.]
+
+The soup vegetables are onions, carrots, turnips, and
+celery. They are cut into small pieces and are sometimes
+fried before being added to the soup pot.
+
+ [Sidenote: The Bouquet.]
+
+Parsley wrapped around peppercorns, cloves, bay-leaves and
+other herbs, excepting sage, and tied, makes what is called
+a bouquet. In this shape the herbs are more easily removed.
+
+ [Sidenote: Proportions.]
+
+The proportions are one quart of cold water to a pound of
+meat, and to four quarts of water one each of the vegetables
+of medium size, named above, two sticks of celery, and a
+bouquet containing one root of parsley with leaves, one
+bay-leaf, twelve peppercorns, six cloves,--one sprig of
+thyme, and sweet marjoram if desired.
+
+ [Sidenote: The order of preparing Soups.]
+
+In making good soup the first essential is a perfectly clean
+pot. I would emphasize the word clean. First have the pot
+thoroughly washed with soda and water to remove any grease,
+then scoured with sapolio to take off any bits of burned or
+hardened matter.
+
+The meat should be wiped clean with a wet cloth and carefully
+examined to see if there are any tainted spots, then cut into
+pieces about one and a half inches square (except in the case
+where a round of beef is used, which is to be removed when
+tender and served as bouilli). The meat and bones must be put
+into cold water in order to extract the juices, and never be
+allowed to boil. Slow cooking best effects the object desired
+(see article on boiling, page 67). After the meat has stood
+fifteen minutes in cold water, put it on the fire, cover,
+and let it come slowly to the simmering-point, then place
+on the back of range to simmer for six hours or more. An
+hour before the cooking is completed, add the vegetables,
+cut into small pieces. When the soup is to be served clear,
+it is well to remove the scum as it rises, but this is not
+essential, for much of it comes off when the soup is strained,
+and perfectly clear soup requires clarifying in any case. The
+French receipts all say remove the scum, but as it is a
+nutrient part of the meat, unless clearness is desired, it
+seems better to let it remain during the period of cooking.
+
+ [Sidenote: Removing the Grease.]
+
+When the soup has simmered five or six hours, it should be
+strained into an earthen bowl and left to cool uncovered.
+Under no circumstances let it stand in the pot after it is
+cooked. The grease will rise to the top and form a cake
+which can be easily removed when cold. Any little particles
+which may stick to the jelly may be wiped off with a cloth
+wet in hot water. Where a quantity of stock is made at one
+time, it is well to strain it into two or even three bowls;
+the grease forms an air-tight cover and will help to keep it
+from souring. Stock should be made the day before it is to
+be used in order to let the grease rise and the floating
+particles settle, but where it is needed at once, the grease
+that cannot be skimmed off with a spoon can be absorbed by
+passing tissue paper over it carefully.
+
+ [Sidenote: Clarifying.]
+
+Soup can be made perfectly clear by taking the jellied stock
+from which every particle of grease and sediment has been
+removed, and stirring into it, while cold, the slightly-beaten
+white and crushed shell of one egg to each quart of stock. It
+must be stirred constantly until the soup is hot enough to
+coagulate the albumen, by which time it has thoroughly mixed
+with and imprisoned the fine particles which cloud the liquid.
+Let it boil violently for five minutes, then let it stand five
+minutes longer on the side of the range to settle. Strain
+through a fine cloth laid on a sieve. Let it drain through
+without pressing. In some cases a small bit of lemon rind used
+with the egg in clearing gives a pleasant flavor to the soup.
+After clearing it will ordinarily need to be heated again
+before serving. In high-class cooking, soups are cleared
+with chopped raw meat or chicken, which adds to, instead of
+detracting from the richness of the soup. The albumen of egg
+does not materially affect the quality of the soup, and is
+recommended for general practice.[87-*]
+
+ [Sidenote: Coloring.]
+
+If a deeper color is wanted, it may be obtained by adding
+a very little caramel (see page 78) or a few drops of a
+preparation called "Kitchen Bouquet." Artificial coloring,
+however, is not so good as that obtained by browning the
+vegetables and part of the meat before adding them to the soup
+pot. (See brown stock, page 88.)
+
+ [Sidenote: Names.]
+
+The meat soups are called broths, bouillon, or consomme,
+according to their richness.
+
+The purees are thick soups made with or without stock, the
+basis being mashed vegetables or meat pounded to a paste.
+
+ [Sidenote: Meat Stock.]
+
+Stock made of meat alone will keep better than where
+vegetables are used. In warm weather it is well to have it
+so prepared.
+
+
+COMMON STOCK (POT-AU-FEU)
+
+For this stock pieces of fresh or cooked meat are used, also
+all odds and ends, chicken bones, gravies, cooked or raw
+vegetables, etc. Water in which fish or vegetables (excepting
+cabbage or potatoes) have been boiled may or may not be used.
+They are put together cold and are simmered for five or six
+hours, then strained through a colander into an earthen bowl
+and left to cool uncovered. Clear soup should not be attempted
+with this stock, but it is good to combine with vegetables for
+vegetable soup, or with other mixtures like rice, bits of
+meat, chicken, gumbo, etc., for soup and to use for sauces and
+seasoning.
+
+
+BEEF OR BROWN STOCK
+
+ 8 lbs. of shin of beef.
+ 8 quarts of cold water.
+ 1 medium-sized carrot.
+ 1 medium-sized turnip.
+ 1 parsley root and leaves.
+ 1 onion.
+ 1 stick of celery.
+ 12 peppercorns.
+ 6 cloves.
+ 1 tablespoonful of salt.
+
+Rub with a wet cloth the outside of the shin of beef, which
+has been well broken by the butcher. Take the meat from the
+bones and cut it into small pieces. Put aside a half pound
+of the meat. Place the rest of the meat and the bones in a
+perfectly clean pot with the cold water, and let it stand
+fifteen to twenty minutes, or until the water is red; then
+place them on the fire and let them come slowly to the
+simmering point. Meanwhile, place in a saute-pan some of the
+marrow from the bones, or a tablespoonful of drippings. When
+the fat is hot put in the half pound of reserved meat and
+cook it until it is well browned. When the water in the pot
+has begun to simmer, put in the browned meat and rinse the
+saute-pan with a few spoonfuls of water so none of the value
+of the browned meat will be lost. This will give good color
+and also flavor to the soup. Place the pot where the water
+will simmer only, and leave it to cook for six hours, or
+until the meat is cooked to shreds and its nutriment fully
+extracted. Add the vegetables, which have been well washed,
+scraped, and cut into pieces, one hour before the cooking is
+completed, and add the salt just before removing the stock
+from the fire.
+
+If a clear soup is not desired, the care to keep it below
+the boiling point is not essential. (See note, page 87.)
+
+When the stock is done strain it through a close cloth or a
+fine sieve into an earthen bowl, and let it cool without
+covering.
+
+When ready to serve, remove the grease, clear it if desired
+for transparent soup, add more pepper and salt to taste.
+
+
+FOR MACARONI, NOODLE, VERMICELLI, VEGETABLE OR PRINTANIERE,
+JULIENNE, TAPIOCA, AND CROUTE-AU-POT SOUPS,
+
+Take as much of the beef stock as will be needed, allowing
+one half pint for each person, remove all the grease, heat
+it, and season to taste. Just before serving add any of the
+above articles, which must have been boiled separately. The
+soup will then have the name of the ingredient used.
+
+ [Sidenote: Julienne.]
+
+Julienne does not differ from the vegetable soup except in
+the form given the vegetables. For julienne, the outside or
+deep yellow of the carrot, turnip, and celery are cut, with
+a knife which comes for the purpose, into thin, thread-like
+pieces about two inches long. The shredded vegetables must
+be boiled before being added to the soup, and care used to
+prevent their breaking or becoming too soft to hold their
+form, or they may be fried in butter until tender. Green
+peas, asparagus tips, and flowerets of cauliflower may also
+be added. (See illustration facing page 92.)
+
+ [Sidenote: Printaniere.]
+
+Any vegetables may be used for vegetable soup, but judgment
+should be shown in the combination. They may be made ornamental
+by being cut into fancy shapes with cutters, or into balls
+with a small potato scoop, or they may be cut into dice.
+
+[Illustration: PRINTANIERE AND JULIENNE SOUP VEGETABLES. (SEE PAGE 89.)
+
+ 1, 2, 3. Cutters used for cutting vegetables for Printaniere Soup.
+ 4. Vegetables prepared for Printaniere Soup.
+ 5. Knife for cutting vegetables into Julienne.
+ 6. Julienne.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Tapioca.]
+
+Pearl tapioca boiled to clearness makes a very pretty
+thickening to clear soup.
+
+ [Sidenote: Croute au Pot.]
+
+Small pieces of toast or thin shavings of stale bread are added
+to the tureen just before serving to make the _croute-au-pot_.
+The soup should be served before the bread dissolves or gets
+very soft.
+
+For julienne, tapioca, and _croute-au-pot_, the soup should
+be perfectly clear and a deep amber color.
+
+ [Sidenote: Garnishes for Soups.]
+
+Other garnishes which may be added to soups are: Force-meat
+balls (see page 92); yolks of hard-boiled eggs; egg balls
+(see page 92); royal custard (see page 92); fried croutons
+(see page 81); noodles (see page 93); dumplings (see page
+170); thin cross-cuts of celery; thin slices of lemon, one
+for each plate; grated Parmesan cheese (passed); macaroni
+cut into pieces one eighth of an inch thick, making rings;
+sweet potato balls (see page 94); marrow balls (see page
+94); green pea timbale (see page 94); harlequin slices (see
+page 94); with consomme, a poached egg for each portion.
+
+
+THICKENING FOR SOUPS
+
+Roux (see page 79) makes the best thickening for soups which
+are not clear, using brown or white roux according to the
+color of the soup. Thin the roux with a little soup, so it
+will be smooth before adding it to the soup kettle. Roux added
+to pea, bean, and potato soups prevents their separating.
+
+A thickening of eggs is made as follows: Beat two or three
+yolks and dilute them with a half a cupful of cream or milk
+or cold soup. Stir in a few spoonfuls of the hot soup to
+warm it. Remove the soup from the fire and stir in slowly
+the egg mixture, return it to the fire to cook the egg, but
+do not let it boil, or it may curdle.
+
+Clear soups are sometimes thickened by using one teaspoonful
+of arrowroot to a quart of soup. Mix the arrowroot with a
+little of the cold soup, turn it into the hot soup, and cook
+until it becomes clear. A clear soup so thickened may be
+flavored with sherry.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[84-*] It is not meant to imply that the stock-pot should never be
+removed from the range and that articles should be added at any time.
+When the nutriment is extracted from one collection of materials, the
+stock should be strained off, the pot thoroughly cleaned, and a new
+stock started as soon as enough materials have again accumulated.--M. R.
+
+[87-*] It will be difficult if not impossible to make a perfectly clear
+and brilliant soup from stock where bones have been used, if the stock
+has been subjected to boiling heat. Boiling dissolves the lime in the
+bones, and this gives a cloudiness which clarifying will not entirely
+remove.--M. R.
+
+
+
+GARNISHES FOR SOUPS
+
+
+=ROYALE=
+
+A CUSTARD TO SERVE WITH CONSOMME
+
+ 2 yolks.
+ 1 entire egg.
+ 1/3 teaspoonful of salt.
+ Dash of cayenne.
+ 1/2 cupful of beef stock.
+
+Beat the eggs well, but not to a froth. Add one third of a teaspoonful
+of salt and one half cupful of clear beef stock. Pour the mixture into a
+small pan or flat dish, so it will be about one half inch deep. Set the
+pan into another one containing hot water and place them in a very
+moderate oven, so that the custard will set without bubbles and without
+browning on top. Let the custard become perfectly cold. Without removing
+it from the pan, cut it into cubes one half inch square, or into fancy
+forms, with vegetable cutters.
+
+These pieces should be placed carefully in the consomme after it is in
+the tureen, allowing three or four pieces to each portion of soup.
+
+
+=FORCE-MEAT BALLS=
+
+Chop any cooked meat very fine, season highly with salt, pepper, thyme,
+onion juice, lemon juice, and herbs if desired; add enough yolk of egg
+to moisten and bind the meat. Mold into balls one half inch in diameter,
+roll the balls in flour, and poach them in boiling water, or they may be
+fried in butter.
+
+Force-meat balls may also be made of raw meat prepared as for timbale
+paste (see page 297).
+
+[Illustration: RADISHES CUT TO IMITATE ROSES.]
+
+
+=EGG BALLS=
+
+Rub to a paste, with a wooden spoon, the yolks of hard-boiled eggs;
+season with salt, pepper, and butter; add enough raw yolk to bind the
+paste; form it into balls one half the size of a natural yolk; roll them
+in white of egg and then in flour, and poach the balls in boiling water
+for a few minutes.
+
+Three yolks will make five balls. One ball is enough to allow to each
+portion of soup.
+
+
+=NOODLES=
+
+Several dishes may be made from noodles.
+
+To three eggs (slightly beaten) mixed with two tablespoonfuls of water
+and a little salt, add enough flour to make a stiff dough; work it well
+for fifteen or twenty minutes, adding flour when necessary. When it is
+smooth and elastic, cut off a small piece at a time and roll it as thin
+as a wafer. It can be rolled very thin by placing a cloth under it.
+Sprinkle the thin sheet with flour, and roll it into a rather tight
+roll. With a sharp knife cut it, from the end,--into threads, if for
+soup; if to use as a vegetable, into ribbons one quarter inch wide. Let
+them dry an hour or more. They will keep the same as macaroni.
+
+[Illustration: NOODLES. (SEE PAGE 93.)
+
+ 1. Sheet of Noodle Paste.
+ 2. Noodles for Soup.
+ 3. Noodles to serve as vegetable.
+ 4. Noodle Balls.
+ 5. Sheet of Noodle Paste Rolled.
+ 6. Paste cut from Roll.
+ 7. Noodle Paste cut for Balls before being fried.]
+
+
+=NOODLES SERVED AS A VEGETABLE=
+
+Throw a few noodles at a time into boiling, salted water; boil them
+until they are done, separating them carefully with a fork to prevent
+their matting together. Skim them out when done, and keep them on a warm
+dish on the hot shelf until enough are cooked. Season with butter. Put
+them in the dish in which they are to be served, and sprinkle over them
+bread crumbs browned in hot butter to a golden color. This dish may be
+served with fish, with meat, or as a course by itself. Noodles may also
+be cooked like macaroni, with cheese.
+
+
+=NOODLE BALLS=
+
+Take some of the noodle paste made as directed above. Roll it as thin as
+possible, then place it on a floured napkin and roll until it is as thin
+as paper; fold it double, and cut it into circles one quarter inch in
+diameter, using a small vegetable cutter or pastry bag tube. Fry them in
+smoking hot fat, tossing them in the frying basket so that they will
+color evenly. They will puff into balls and color in one minute. Drain
+and place them on paper on the hot shelf. Sprinkle them on the soup
+after it is in the tureen, or better pass them, as they soften very
+quickly.
+
+
+=MARROW BALLS=
+
+Melt a tablespoonful of marrow and strain it through a cloth, or fine
+sieve, into a bowl; beat it till creamy, then add an egg and beat again
+thoroughly. Season with pepper, salt, and a little nutmeg. Add to this
+mixture as much soft bread as it will moisten. Roll it into small balls
+and poach in boiling water. Place them in the soup just before serving.
+
+
+=SWEET POTATO BALLS=
+
+Mash some cooked sweet potatoes, season with butter, salt, pepper, and
+nutmeg, and a little grated cheese. Moisten with beaten egg; roll into
+small balls and poach in boiling water. Put the balls into the soup the
+last thing before serving.
+
+
+=GREEN PEA TIMBALE FOR SOUP=
+
+Mix one half cupful of mashed green peas with one tablespoonful of soup
+stock and three whites of eggs; season with salt, pepper, and a little
+nutmeg. Beat well together and place in a small mold or flat tin. Set
+the mold into hot water and place in slow oven until the mixture is set.
+When it is firm, unmold, cut into small cubes, and put them in the soup
+just before serving.
+
+
+=HARLEQUIN SLICES=
+
+Cut into small squares some cooked carrots, turnips, and string beans.
+Arrange them in timbale cups, mixing the vegetables together; fill the
+cups up with royale mixture. (See above.) Set them into hot water and
+cook in slow oven until the custard is firm. Unmold when cold, and cut
+with a sharp knife into slices one eighth of an inch thick. Place these
+in the soup just before serving.
+
+
+
+BROTHS
+
+
+=CHICKEN BROTH=
+
+ 1 fowl.
+ 4 quarts of cold water.
+ 1/2 cupful of rice.
+ Salt and pepper.
+
+Clean the fowl carefully; wash it with a wet cloth; cut it into pieces
+and remove the fat. Place the joints in a saucepan with a quart of water
+to each pound of fowl. Let it simmer until the meat is tender; then
+remove the breast; after four hours take it off and strain it through a
+sieve. Let the soup stand until the grease rises; then carefully remove
+it, and put the soup again in the saucepan; add the breast of the
+chicken, cut into dice, and the half cupful of rice; salt and pepper to
+taste, and cook until the rice is tender.
+
+
+=CLAM BROTH=
+
+ 12 large hard-shelled clams for 1 pint of broth.
+
+Boil the clams and juice for twenty minutes; strain and let it stand to
+settle; strain it again carefully into a saucepan, and let it boil up
+once; season with butter and pepper--no salt--and serve in cups with
+whipped cream on top.
+
+To open the clams and obtain the juice, place the clams, after they have
+been carefully washed with a brush and clear water, in a saucepan; add
+two tablespoonfuls of hot water; cover and let them steam until the
+shells open; then strain off the liquor.
+
+
+=MUTTON BROTH=
+
+The neck or shoulder-pieces may be used for broth. The meat should be
+cut into pieces and the fat removed. To each pound of meat add one
+quart of cold water; simmer for four or five hours; strain it into an
+earthen bowl; when ready to serve, remove the grease, and add to each
+quart of stock one stick of celery, two tablespoonfuls of rice, salt and
+pepper to taste, and boil until the rice is soft.
+
+The water in which a leg of mutton has been boiled will make a good
+mutton soup, but is not rich enough for a broth to be served to an
+invalid.
+
+=Broth Made Quickly for Invalids.= Broth may be made quickly by chopping
+lean meat to a fine mince. To a pound of meat add one pint of cold
+water; let soak for fifteen minutes; then let slowly boil for half an
+hour; season and strain.
+
+
+
+SOUPS
+
+
+=BOUILLON=
+
+(3 PINTS. TIME, 5 HOURS)
+
+ 3 lbs. of beef cut from under side of round and chopped to a mince.
+ 3 quarts of cold water.
+ 1 onion.
+ 1/2 carrot.
+ 1 sprig of parsley.
+ 2 sticks of celery.
+ 1 bay-leaf.
+ 2 cloves.
+ 6 peppercorns.
+ 1 teaspoonful of salt added just before taking the soup off the fire.
+
+Take three pounds of beef cut from the lower part of round, remove all
+the fat, and chop the meat to a fine mince. Place the chopped meat in a
+saucepan with three quarts of cold water, and let it stand one hour;
+then put it on the fire, cover, and let it come slowly to the
+boiling-point, taking off any scum that rises. Then place it where it
+will only simmer. After it has simmered for four hours add the
+vegetables cut into dice, and the spices, and let it simmer one hour
+longer. Strain into an earthen bowl and let it cool without covering.
+This stock will not jelly, as no bones are boiled with it.
+
+When ready to use remove grease, season, if necessary, with pepper and
+salt, and put into saucepan with three fourths of a pound of lean meat
+chopped fine, and the white of one egg. Stir until it boils; let it boil
+for fifteen minutes. Lay a fine cloth on a sieve and strain through it
+the bouillon without pressing. It should be perfectly clear and of the
+color of amber. It can be served in cups. A little sherry may be added,
+if liked, when served at afternoon teas.
+
+
+=CONSOMME=[98-*]
+
+ 4 lbs. lower part round of beef.
+ 4 lbs. knuckle of veal.
+ 2 tablespoonfuls of butter.
+ 6 quarts of cold water.
+ 1 large onion.
+ 1/2 carrot.
+ 3 stalks of celery.
+ 1 tablespoonful of salt.
+ 2 sprigs of parsley.
+ 15 peppercorns.
+ 3 cloves.
+ 1 inch square of cinnamon.
+ A little thyme.
+ A little marjoram.
+ A little summer savory.
+ 2 bay-leaves.
+
+Cut the beef into pieces one inch square. Remove the veal from the bone,
+and cut it also into small pieces. Put one tablespoonful of butter into
+a very clean soup-pot with the pieces of meat, and stir over a hot fire
+until the meat is browned, care being taken that it does not burn; then
+add one quart of water, and let it cook until a glaze has formed on the
+bottom of the kettle, which will take about one hour. Then add five
+quarts of cold water and let it come slowly to the boiling-point. Set
+the soup-pot back on the fire and let the soup simmer for six hours.
+Remove the scum from time to time as it rises. One hour before the time
+for removing the soup add to it the vegetables, which have been cut fine
+and browned in one tablespoonful of butter. Add also the herbs and
+spices, and one tablespoonful of salt. When it has simmered six hours,
+strain it through a fine cloth, laid on a sieve, into an earthen bowl,
+and let it cool without covering. A fowl added to this receipt will give
+the soup a more delicate flavor. If used it should be put in the pot at
+the time the five quarts of water are added. The veal-bone may also go
+in at this time; but the soup will not be so clear if the bone is used.
+If a chicken is used it may be removed from the stock when tender and
+used for other purposes.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[98-*] This receipt gives a perfectly clear brilliant soup after it is
+clarified. If no bones are used it can be boiled slowly without injury
+instead of being simmered. The stock will not always jelly.--M. R.
+
+
+=OX-TAIL SOUP=
+
+ 2 ox-tails.
+ 1 onion.
+ 1 tablespoonful of drippings or of salt pork.
+ 4 quarts of cold water.
+ 1 stick of celery.
+ 1 root of parsley.
+ 3 cloves.
+ 6 peppercorns.
+ 1 tablespoonful of salt.
+
+Cut the ox-tails into pieces, separating them at the joints. Saute the
+onion and the ox-tails in the drippings to a delicate brown. Put the
+meat in the soup-pot with four quarts of cold water. Let it come to the
+boiling-point; add the vegetables and spices, and simmer for four hours,
+then add the salt. Strain, take off the grease. Select some of the
+pieces of ox-tail, one piece for each portion, and place them in the
+tureen with the soup. Ox-tails are gelatinous and make a smooth soup.
+
+
+=WHITE STOCK=
+
+ 1 knuckle of veal.
+ 1 fowl.
+ Bouquet of herbs.
+ 1 onion.
+ 2 stalks of celery.
+ 1 small turnip cut into dice.
+ 1 small carrot cut into dice.
+
+Cut the meat from the bone. Wash the skin of the fowl (see page 180).
+Allow one quart of cold water to each pound of meat and bone. Place all
+in a kettle. Cover and let simmer four or five hours. Strain into an
+earthen bowl, and let cool uncovered.
+
+White stock may be made of veal alone. If a fowl is used, the breast and
+second joints may be removed when tender, and used for other dishes
+(croquettes, souffle, imperiale, etc.). A part of the veal may also be
+removed, and used for veal loaf (see page 171).
+
+
+=WHITE SOUP=
+
+ 1 pint of white stock.
+ 1 pint of milk or cream.
+ 1 tablespoonful of butter.
+ Salt and pepper to taste.
+ Chicken, veal, or celery (cut into small dice), or rice.
+ 1 tablespoonful of flour.
+
+Put one pint of milk or cream into a double boiler; add to it one pint
+of white stock, and a white roux made of one tablespoonful of butter and
+one tablespoonful of flour cooked together, but not browned. Dilute the
+roux to smoothness with a little of the cold milk before adding it to
+the soup. Let it come to the boiling-point. Season to taste, and strain
+into the tureen; then add one tablespoonful or more of chicken breast,
+veal, or celery (cut into small dice), or rice. If desired, two or more
+of these may be used, and the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, pressed through
+a sieve, sprinkled over the top. This quantity gives but one quart of
+soup; enough to serve to four people.
+
+
+=CHICKEN CONSOMME, OR STOCK=
+
+Place a fowl, cut into pieces, in four quarts of cold water; let come
+slowly to the boiling-point; then draw it to the side of range and
+simmer for three hours. At the end of this time add one slice of onion,
+two sticks of celery, one tablespoonful of salt, one saltspoonful of
+pepper, and simmer one or two hours longer; strain into earthen bowl,
+and let cool without covering.
+
+This stock may be cleared the same as beef stock, and served in cups for
+luncheon. It may also be mixed with gelatine, cleared, and used for
+aspic, in Russian salads, jellied chicken, etc. (see page 323).
+
+The meat from the breast and second joints may be removed from the
+stock-pot, when tender, and reserved for timbales, croquettes, patties,
+etc.
+
+If this soup is not rich enough, it can be reduced by opening the lid of
+the pot, after it has simmered the required time, and allowed to boil
+uncovered until as rich as desired.
+
+
+=PLAIN CHICKEN SOUP=
+
+ 1 fowl.
+ 4 quarts of water.
+ 1 cupful of rice.
+ 1 slice of onion.
+ 2 sticks of celery.
+ 1 sprig of parsley.
+
+Place the fowl, cut into pieces, in a saucepan with four quarts of cold
+water; when it comes to the boiling-point, draw it aside and let it
+simmer for three hours; then add one thick slice of onion, two sticks of
+celery, one sprig of parsley, and one cupful of rice, and simmer for
+another hour; strain and let the soup stand until the grease can be
+taken off the top. Remove the meat, bones, and vegetables from the
+strainer, and press the rice through the sieve; stir this into the soup;
+season with salt and pepper, and heat again before serving; a little
+cream may also be added. This soup is also good thickened with a little
+roux or with corn-starch. For the latter, take two tablespoonfuls of the
+cold stock; stir into it one tablespoonful of corn-starch; then stir it
+into the soup, and let cook for ten minutes to take away the raw taste
+of the starch, and to make it clear. Pieces of the breast cut into dice
+may also be added.
+
+
+=VEGETABLE SOUP=
+
+To one quart of common stock add one pint of parboiled mixed vegetables
+cut into small dice. Simmer until the vegetables are tender but not
+pasty. Season with salt, pepper, and one teaspoonful of sugar.
+
+Serve without straining.
+
+
+=TOMATO PUREE=
+
+Put into a granite-ware saucepan a quart of canned or of fresh tomatoes;
+add a pint of water or of stock;--the soup will be better if stock is
+used;--add also one bay-leaf, a sprig of parsley, a stick of celery, six
+peppercorns, and a teaspoonful of sugar; simmer until the tomato is
+thoroughly soft. In another saucepan put a tablespoonful of butter; when
+it is hot add a sliced onion, and fry, but not brown it; then add a
+tablespoonful of flour, and cook, but not brown the flour. To this roux
+add enough of the tomato to dilute it, and then mix it well with the
+rest of the tomato, and season with salt. Pass the whole through a fine
+sieve or strainer. Heat it again before serving, and sprinkle over the
+top small croutons.
+
+
+=SPLIT-PEA OR BEAN SOUP=
+
+ 1 cupful of split peas, or
+ 1 cupful of dried beans.
+ 1 tablespoonful of butter.
+ 2 quarts of water.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of sugar.
+ 1 tablespoonful of flour.
+ Salt and pepper to taste.
+
+Let the peas or beans soak over night in three quarts of cold water. Put
+the soaked peas or beans into a saucepan with two quarts of water and a
+ham-bone, if you have it, otherwise it may be omitted. Let simmer for
+four or five hours, or until the peas or beans are perfectly soft. (Add
+more water from time to time, if necessary.) Then pass them through a
+sieve; add to the pulp enough stock, or milk, or water to make a soup of
+the consistency of cream. Put it again into a saucepan on the fire;
+season, and add a roux made of one tablespoonful of butter and one
+tablespoonful of flour cooked together; dilute the roux to smoothness
+with a little of the soup before adding it to the pot.
+
+The roux will hold the particles of peas or beans in suspension. Without
+it they are liable to precipitate.
+
+An onion may be boiled with the peas or beans if desired.
+
+Serve croutons on the soup, or pass them.
+
+
+=BLACK-BEAN SOUP=
+
+ 2 cupfuls of black beans.
+ Brown stock.
+ Brown roux.
+ Bouquet of herbs, made of a sprig of parsley, a sprig of thyme, one
+ clove.
+ 4 peppercorns, 1 onion.
+ Egg balls.
+ Thin slices of lemon.
+ Force-meat balls.
+ White of hard-boiled egg.
+ 1/4 cupful of sherry or red wine.
+ Salt and pepper to taste.
+
+Soak two cupfuls of black beans over night. Put the soaked beans into a
+saucepan with a bouquet of herbs, and cover them with cold water. Let
+them boil slowly until tender, which will take several hours, adding
+more water if necessary. When the beans are very soft remove the
+bouquet, drain off the water, and pass the beans through a puree sieve.
+Add to the pulp enough brown stock to make a soup of the consistency of
+thin cream. Place it again on the fire and add a brown roux made of one
+tablespoonful of butter and one tablespoonful of flour, cooked together
+until brown; dilute it to smoothness before adding and cook it with the
+soup for five minutes. This will prevent the soup from separating.
+Season with salt and pepper. Strain it through a sieve into the tureen;
+then add thin slices of lemon, egg balls, and force-meat balls, allowing
+one of each to each portion of soup; add also the white of one
+hard-boiled egg cut into small dice, and one quarter of a cupful of
+sherry or red wine.
+
+This resembles mock-turtle soup.
+
+
+=CALF'S-HEAD OR MOCK-TURTLE SOUP=
+
+Make a brown roux by putting in a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter,
+let it brown, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and let that brown; then
+add, slowly at first, one and a half or two quarts of water in which a
+calf's head has been boiled, white wine instead of vinegar being used in
+the boiling (see boiled calf's head, page 175). Add three or four
+strained tomatoes and simmer for one half hour. Skim off any fat and
+season with salt and pepper. Add some pieces of boiled calf's head cut
+in pieces one half inch square, a few egg balls, two or three
+tablespoonfuls of sherry, and a few very thin slices of lemon.
+
+
+=FISH STOCK=
+
+Put into the soup-pot a tablespoonful of butter or of drippings. Add a
+tablespoonful each of chopped onion, carrot, and turnip. Fry them
+without browning, then add fish-bones, head, and trimmings, a stalk of
+celery, sprigs of parsley and of thyme, a bay-leaf, a tomato or a slice
+of lemon. Cover with water, and simmer them for an hour or more. Season
+with salt and pepper. Strain.
+
+When this stock is used for soup, make a roux of one tablespoonful each
+of butter and flour, add a cupful of milk or cream, and add this amount
+to each pint of the fish stock.
+
+
+=OYSTER SOUP=
+
+Scald a quart, or twenty-five, oysters in their own liquor. As soon as
+they are plump, or the gills curl, remove them (oysters harden if
+boiled). Add to the liquor a cupful of water. Make a roux of one
+tablespoonful each of butter and flour, dilute it with the liquor, and
+when it is smooth add a cupful of scalded milk or cream. Season with
+pepper, salt, if necessary, and a dash of cayenne or paprica; then add
+the oysters, and as soon as they are heated serve at once. In oyster
+houses finely shredded cabbage with a French dressing is served with
+oyster soup, and is a good accompaniment when served for luncheon.
+Oysters should be carefully examined, and the liquor passed through a
+fine sieve before being cooked, in order to remove any pieces of shell
+there may be in them.
+
+
+=CLAM SOUP=
+
+Remove the clams from the shells as soon as they have opened (see clam
+broth, page 95). Put them in a warm place, until the juice is prepared.
+Add a cupful of hot milk to a quart of juice, and thicken it with a roux
+made of one tablespoonful of butter and one tablespoonful of flour; then
+add the clams, chopped fine, season, and bring the soup again to the
+boiling-point and serve. Two spoonfuls of whipped cream served on each
+plateful of soup is an improvement to the dish.
+
+
+
+CREAM SOUPS
+
+
+=ONION SOUP=
+
+(A VERY SIMPLE SOUP QUICKLY MADE)
+
+Slice two or three large onions; fry them in a tablespoonful of butter
+or drippings until they are soft and red, then add three tablespoonfuls
+of flour, and stir until it is a little cooked. To this add slowly a
+pint of boiling water, stirring all the time, so it will be smooth.
+
+Boil and mash three good-sized potatoes. Add to them slowly a quart of
+scalded milk, stirring well so it will be smooth. Add the potato and
+milk mixture to the onion mixture. Season with salt and pepper. Let it
+get very hot, and pass it through a strainer into the tureen. Sprinkle
+over the top a little parsley chopped very fine, and a few croutons. The
+soup will be better if stock is used instead of water to dilute the
+onion mixture.
+
+
+=POTATO SOUP=
+
+Boil and mash three or four potatoes.
+
+Make a roux of one tablespoonful of butter, one half tablespoonful of
+flour, and one teaspoonful of chopped onion, letting the onion cook in
+the butter a few minutes before adding the flour. When the roux is
+cooked add to it a pint of milk, making a thin, white sauce. Add this to
+the mashed potato and pass the whole through a strainer. Return it to
+the fire for a few minutes to heat and blend it. Season it with salt and
+pepper.
+
+Sprinkle on the soup, when it is in the tureen, a teaspoonful of chopped
+parsley and a few croutons.
+
+If the soup is too thick, add a little more milk or a little hot water.
+The roux prevents the milk and potato from separating, and also gives it
+smoothness. The soup can be made richer by using more milk, and stirring
+into it, just before serving, the beaten yolks of two eggs. This soup
+may also be made of sweet potatoes.
+
+
+=TOMATO BISQUE=
+
+ 1/2 can of tomatoes.
+ 1 quart of milk.
+ 2 tablespoonfuls of butter.
+ 1 tablespoonful of corn-starch.
+ 1 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1/2 saltspoonful of pepper.
+ 1 saltspoonful of soda.
+ Dash of cayenne.
+
+Stew the tomatoes until very soft; then pass them through a fine sieve
+or strainer. Put the strained tomatoes into a granite-ware saucepan, and
+add one saltspoonful of soda; when it has ceased foaming add the butter,
+a small piece at a time; if put in all at once it will show an oily
+line; add salt, pepper, and cayenne.
+
+Put the milk into a double boiler, and stir into it a tablespoonful of
+corn-starch which has been mixed with a little of the cold milk, to make
+it smooth; let it scald for ten minutes, or long enough to cook the
+corn-starch; then pour the milk into the tomatoes, beat well together,
+and serve at once.
+
+It is better not to add the milk to the tomatoes until just ready to
+serve, for fear of curdling.
+
+
+=CREAM OF ASPARAGUS; CREAM OF GREEN PEAS; CREAM OF STRING BEANS; CREAM OR
+SPINACH; CREAM OF CORN; CREAM OF CELERY=
+
+These soups are very delicate, and are much esteemed. They are all made
+in the same way. The vegetable is boiled until soft, and is then pressed
+through a sieve. A pint of the vegetable pulp is diluted with a quart of
+stock (the stock may be veal, beef, or chicken broth). It is thickened
+with a roux made of one tablespoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls
+of flour, seasoned with pepper and salt, and is then strained again, so
+it will be perfectly smooth. It is replaced on the fire, a cupful or a
+half cupful of cream added, and the whole beaten with an egg-whip to
+make it light, and is served at once very hot. The French thicken cream
+soups with egg-yolks. In this case two yolks would be used for the above
+quantity. The beaten yolks are diluted with the cream, and cooked only
+just long enough to set the egg. It would curdle if allowed to boil.
+Butter is needed for seasoning, and where eggs are used it should be
+added in small bits before the cream and eggs. Where roux is used for
+thickening, there is enough butter in the roux.
+
+
+=CREAM OF CLAMS=
+
+ 25 large clams.
+ 2 tablespoonfuls of butter.
+ 2 tablespoonfuls of flour.
+ 1-1/2 pints of milk.
+ Small slice of onion.
+ Dash of nutmeg.
+ Salt and pepper.
+ 1/2 pint of cream.
+
+Wash the clam shells thoroughly with a brush and clear water.
+
+Put them into a pot on the fire with one half cup of boiling water;
+cover and let steam until the shells open; take out the clams and let
+the liquor settle; then strain it carefully, and set aside; remove the
+clams from the shells; chop them, pound them in a mortar, and press as
+much of them as possible through a puree sieve. Put the milk into a
+double boiler with the slice of onion. Put the butter into a frying-pan,
+and when it bubbles, stir into it the flour, and let it cook a few
+minutes, but not brown; add enough of the milk slowly to make the roux
+liquid; then add it to the milk in the double boiler, first having
+removed the slice of onion; add a dash of nutmeg and of pepper, then the
+cream; when ready to serve, stir in the clam pulp and one pint of the
+clam liquor; taste to see if salt will be needed. After the clams are
+added to the milk, leave it on the fire only long enough to get well
+heated; if boiled, the milk will curdle. Beat a moment with an
+egg-whisk to make foamy. If the mixture is too thick, it may be diluted
+with milk or cream.
+
+This is good for luncheon, served in small cups, the top covered with a
+spoonful of whipped cream.
+
+
+=CREAM OF OYSTERS=
+
+Scald a quart of oysters in their own liquor. Remove the oysters; chop
+and pound them in a mortar, then press as much of them as possible
+through a puree sieve.
+
+Make a roux of one tablespoonful of butter and a heaping tablespoonful
+of flour. Dilute it with the oyster juice. Add the oyster pulp; season
+it with pepper, salt, and paprica, and keep it hot until ready to serve.
+Just before serving add a half pint of whipped cream, and beat it well
+into the soup.[108-*]
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[108-*] Any soup made of milk will be greatly improved by adding a
+cupful of hot cream just before serving.
+
+A little fish stock improves clam or oyster cream soup.
+
+
+=SOUP A LA REINE=
+
+Put a chicken into three quarts of water. Simmer it slowly for two
+hours, or until the chicken is very tender. A half hour before removing
+it add a half pound of rice and a bouquet containing one root of
+parsley, one sprig of thyme, a thin slice of onion, and a stick of
+celery. Boil it until the rice is soft, then strain through a colander.
+Let the broth cool and remove the grease. Remove the white meat from the
+bones of the chicken, put it with the rice in a mortar, and pound both
+to a pulp. Pass the pulp through a puree sieve, moistening it with a
+little stock to make it pass through easier. When ready to serve, add
+the puree to the stock, season with salt and pepper, and heat it
+thoroughly without boiling. Just before sending it to the table add a
+half pint of hot cream.
+
+If desired the soup can be thickened with a little roux, or with fifteen
+blanched almonds chopped and pounded to a paste, using a little cream to
+prevent the almonds from oiling.
+
+
+=BISQUE OF LOBSTER=
+
+Put into a mortar equal parts of boiled lobster meat and boiled rice;
+pound them to a pulp; then add enough broth to dilute it; season with
+salt and paprica. Pass it through a sieve. Heat it without boiling, and
+then add enough Bechamel sauce to make it the consistency of cream soup;
+lastly, add to each quart of soup a quarter of a pound of lobster
+butter, adding a little at a time, and stirring until the butter is
+melted. Instead of the lobster butter, plain butter may be used, and the
+coral of the lobster, dried and pounded to a powder, stirred in at the
+same time. Serve croutons with the bisque.
+
+
+=LOBSTER BUTTER=
+
+After the meat is removed from the lobster, take all the rest (except
+the lady, woolly gills and intestine), including the shell, and put it
+into a mortar with twice its weight of butter. Pound it to a pulp; then
+place it in a saucepan on the fire, and cook until the butter is melted.
+Strain it through a cloth. Beat the strained butter until it is cold. If
+not a deep enough color, add a very little cochineal.
+
+
+
+CHOWDERS
+
+
+=POTATO CHOWDER=
+
+ 6 good-sized potatoes.
+ 1/4 lb. salt pork.
+ 1 onion.
+ 1 tablespoonful butter.
+ 1 tablespoonful flour.
+ 1 pint milk or cream.
+ 1 pint water.
+ 1 tablesp'ful chopped parsley.
+ 1 teaspoonful salt.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful pepper.
+
+Cut the potatoes into dice, cut the pork into small pieces, and put it
+with the sliced onion into a frying pan, and fry until a light brown.
+
+Put into a kettle a layer of potatoes, then a layer of onions and pork,
+and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and chopped parsley. Repeat this until
+all the potatoes, pork, onions, and parsley are in. Pour over them the
+grease from the pan in which the pork and onions were fried. Add one
+pint of water, cover, and let simmer twenty minutes. Scald the milk in a
+double boiler, and add it to a roux made of the flour and butter. Add
+this to the pot when the potatoes are tender, and stir carefully
+together, so as not to break the potatoes. Taste to see if the seasoning
+is right. Serve very hot.
+
+This is a good dish for luncheon, or for supper in the country.
+
+
+=FISH CHOWDER=
+
+ 3 lbs. fresh fish.
+ 3 large potatoes.
+ 1 large onion.
+ 1/2 lb. salt pork.
+ 1 pint milk.
+ 3 ship crackers.
+ Pepper and salt.
+
+Cut the fish, the potatoes, and the onion into slices. Cut the pork into
+half-inch dice. Put the pork and the onion into a pan and saute them a
+light brown. Place in alternate layers in a large saucepan first
+potatoes, then fish, then pork and onion; dust with salt and pepper, and
+continue in this order until all the materials are used. Cover the whole
+with boiling water and let the mixture simmer for twenty minutes. Scald
+a pint of milk or of cream, take it off the fire and add one and a half
+tablespoonfuls of butter and three broken ship crackers or the same
+quantity of water biscuits. Arrange the fish mixture in a mound on a
+dish, cover it with the softened crackers, and pour over the whole the
+hot milk.
+
+
+=CLAM CHOWDER=
+
+ 50 clams.
+ 1 medium-sized onion.
+ 6 oz. salt pork.
+ 3 large potatoes.
+ 1 teaspoonful salt.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful pepper.
+ 1 tablespoonful butter.
+ 2 tablespoonfuls flour.
+ 1 pint of milk or cream.
+ 1 saltspoonful of mace.
+ 1 saltspoonful of thyme.
+ 3 ship crackers.
+
+Put the clams, with their own liquor, into a saucepan on the fire. When
+they have boiled three minutes, remove the clams and return the liquor
+to the fire. Cut the pork into slices. Chop an onion and fry it with the
+pork until both are browned. Then stir in two tablespoonfuls of flour.
+When the flour is cooked, add slowly the clam liquor, a dash of mace and
+thyme, and salt, if necessary; then add three parboiled potatoes cut
+into dice, and cook until the potatoes are tender. When ready to serve
+add a pint of milk or cream, the clams cut into pieces, and a quarter of
+a pound of broken ship crackers or any hard water cracker.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+FISH
+
+
+ [Sidenote: Cooking.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Freshness.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Dressing.]
+
+It is essential that fish should be perfectly fresh,
+thoroughly cleaned, and carefully cooked. If underdone it is
+not eatable; if cooked too long it loses flavor and becomes
+dry. The sooner it is cooked after being taken from the water,
+the better. When fresh, the eyes are bright, the gills red,
+the flesh firm and odorless. Ordinarily the fishman removes
+the scales and draws the fish before delivering it; but if
+not, this should be done at once, and the fish thoroughly
+washed, but not allowed to soak in water, then wiped dry and
+put into the refrigerator, on the ice, the skin side down, but
+not in the same compartment with butter, milk, or other foods
+which absorb flavors.
+
+ [Sidenote: Keeping Frozen Fish.]
+
+Fish that are frozen should be laid in cold water until
+thawed, but not allowed to remain in the water after they
+become flexible.
+
+ [Sidenote: Trimming.]
+
+The head and tail should be left on, and the fins trimmed,
+of any fish which is to be served whole.
+
+ [Sidenote: The bones.]
+
+When the fillets only are to be used, the head and bones may
+be used for a fish soup.
+
+ [Sidenote: To skin, bone, and remove the fillets.]
+
+To separate a fish, cut through the skin all around, then,
+beginning at the head, loosen the skin and strip it down. By
+putting salt on the hand a firmer grasp may be obtained, and
+with the aid of a knife the skin can be removed without
+tearing the flesh. After the skin is taken off from both
+sides, slip the knife under the flesh, and keeping it close
+to the bone, remove the fillets. The fillets may then be cut
+into two or more pieces according to the size of the fish,
+care being used to have them of uniform size and shape.
+
+Fillets taken from small fish and from flounders or other
+flat fish are sometimes rolled and held until cooked with
+small skewers. Wooden toothpicks serve this purpose very
+well.
+
+Fish containing many bones are not suitable for fillets.
+
+
+TO CARVE FISH
+
+Run a knife down the back, cutting through the skin. Remove
+the fins. Then cut into even pieces on one side. When these
+pieces are served, remove the bone, and cut the under side
+in the same way.
+
+
+TO BOIL FISH
+
+Add one teaspoonful of salt and one tablespoonful of vinegar
+to every two quarts of water, and use sufficient water to
+entirely cover the fish. The salt and vinegar serve to whiten
+and harden, as well as to season the meat. A bay-leaf and soup
+vegetables in the water improve the flavor of cod and some
+other fish. The fish must not be put into cold water, as that
+extracts the flavor; nor into boiling water, as that breaks
+the skin and gives it a ragged appearance. Lower the fish
+gradually into warm water, let it come quickly to the boiling
+point, then draw to the side of the range, where it will
+simmer only, until done.
+
+ [Sidenote: Time.]
+
+Allow ten minutes to the pound after the water has begun to
+simmer.
+
+ [Sidenote: The Kettle.]
+
+A fish kettle, with strainer, is requisite for boiling a
+fish whole. A plate held in a piece of cheese cloth may be
+used for smaller pieces. When the fish is done the strainer
+should be lifted out carefully and placed across the kettle
+until the fish is well drained.
+
+ [Sidenote: To boil a fish whole.]
+
+A boiled as well as a baked fish is more attractive served
+upright as if swimming. To hold it in this position, place a
+carrot inside the fish to give it roundness and stability, and
+prop it on both sides with pieces of carrot or turnip. The
+head must be wrapped with cord or a strip of cheese cloth to
+keep it from losing shape, and the whole held in position by
+strings going around the strainer (see illustration). If a
+fish is too large for the kettle, it may be cut into halves or
+thirds, and when cooked laid carefully together on the dish
+and garnishing placed over the cuts.
+
+[Illustration: FISH PREPARED TO BOIL IN UPRIGHT POSITION. (SEE PAGE
+114.)]
+
+ [Sidenote: Serving.]
+
+Boiled fish is served on a napkin, and garnished with
+parsley. This may be so arranged as to conceal any defects.
+
+ [Sidenote: Garnishes.]
+
+Slices of lemon, slices of hard-boiled eggs, chopped pickle,
+or capers may also be used for garnishing. Boiled potato
+balls may be served on the same dish.
+
+ [Sidenote: Sauces.]
+
+Boiled fish needs a rich white sauce. Drawn butter, egg,
+Hollandaise, or Bechamel sauces are generally used.
+
+[Illustration: SLICES OF CODFISH BOILED OR SAUTED AND RESTED AGAINST A
+WEDGE-SHAPED BREAD SUPPORT AND GARNISHED WITH BOILED OR FRIED POTATO
+BALLS, WATER-CRESS, AND LEMON.]
+
+
+
+FISH
+
+
+=COURT BOUILLON=
+
+Court bouillon is used for boiling fresh-water fish or others which are
+without much flavor. It may be prepared beforehand, and used several
+times, or the vegetables may be added at the time the fish is boiled.
+
+ Fry in 1 tablespoonful of butter,
+ 1 chopped carrot,
+ 1 chopped onion,
+ 1 stalk of celery.
+
+ Then add 2 quarts of hot water,
+ 1 cup of vinegar or wine,
+ 3 peppercorns,
+ 3 cloves,
+ 1 bay-leaf,
+ 1 teaspoonful of salt.
+
+
+=BAKED FISH=
+
+After the fish is carefully washed and dried, put in the stuffing, and
+sew up the opening with a trussing needle; then cut three gashes in each
+side of the fish, and lay a lardoon of salt pork in each cut. Next, run
+a trussing needle, holding a double white cotton cord, through the head,
+the middle of the body, and the tail. Draw the fish into the shape of
+the letter S, and tie the cord firmly. In order to cook evenly, it is
+better to have the fish upright, and by trussing as directed it will
+hold that position. Dredge the fish with salt, pepper, and flour, and
+lay it on slices of larding pork in a baking pan. Place also over the
+back slices of pork. Allow fifteen minutes to each pound, and baste
+frequently. The pork should supply sufficient liquid for basting; if
+not, add a very little water. The fish can be more easily removed if a
+baking sheet is used in the bottom of the pan. (See illustration facing
+page 118.)
+
+Serve with a brown sauce. Garnish with lemon and parsley.
+
+Haddock, bluefish, shad, and bass are good for baking.
+
+[Illustration: FISH PREPARED TO BAKE. (SEE PAGE 115.)]
+
+
+=STUFFINGS FOR BAKED FISH=
+
+Put a large tablespoonful of butter into a saucepan. When melted stir
+into it
+
+ 1 cupful of cracker or dry bread crumbs,
+ 1 teaspoonful of chopped onion,
+ 1 teaspoonful of chopped capers,
+ 1/4 teaspoonful salt,
+ 1/4 teaspoonful pepper,
+ 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley.
+
+If a moist stuffing is preferred, add one quarter cupful of milk, stock
+or water.
+
+
+=BREAD STUFFING=
+
+Fry a tablespoonful of chopped onion in a tablespoonful of butter. Add a
+cupful or more of stale bread, which has been soaked in hot water, then
+pressed dry. A tablespoonful each of chopped parsley, suet, and celery,
+one quarter teaspoonful each of salt and pepper, and a dash of powdered
+thyme (if liked). When it is well mixed, remove from the fire and add an
+egg.
+
+
+=TO BROIL FISH=
+
+Fish to be broiled are split down the back. After being washed and well
+dried, they should be rubbed with oil or butter, or the skin floured, to
+keep from sticking. The broiler should be made hot and greased with a
+piece of salt pork before the fish is laid on. The hot wires will sear
+the lines which should always show on broiled dishes. The fire must be
+clear and hot for small fish, more moderate for large ones, so the
+outside may not be burned before the inside is cooked. When there is
+danger of this, the broiler may be laid on a pan in the oven to complete
+the cooking. The broiler should be turned as often as the cook counts
+ten, and as the skin burns easily, it must be carefully watched. When
+done, the wires should be carefully raised from both sides so as not to
+break the meat, and the fish turned on to a hot dish and spread with
+butter, salt, and pepper, or better, a maitre d'hotel sauce. This sauce
+makes a more evenly distributed mixture. A wreath of water-cresses laid
+around the fish makes a good garnish, and is an acceptable accompaniment
+to any broiled dish. Lemon is also used for garnish and flavor.
+
+Shad, bluefish, and mackerel are most frequently cooked in this way.
+
+
+=TO SAUTE FISH=
+
+Small or pan fish, and fish cut into slices, are often sauted. After the
+fish is washed and dried, dredge it with salt and pepper, and roll in
+flour, then dip in egg and roll in bread crumbs, cracker dust, or in
+corn-meal. Put into a frying-pan a few pieces of salt pork, and after
+sufficient grease has tried out, lay in the fish; or one tablespoonful
+of lard and one tablespoonful of butter may be used instead of the fat
+pork. Butter burns, and should not be used alone. The grease must be
+very hot, and only enough of it to cover the bottom of the pan one
+eighth of an inch deep. Turn the fish with a broad knife or pancake
+turner, and with care to not break the meat. When cooked an amber color
+it is ready to turn.
+
+Slices of halibut should be marinated (see page 79) before being coated
+with flour. Lay the fish or slices overlapping each other on a hot dish.
+Serve with quarters of lemon, and garnish with parsley. (See
+illustrations facing pages 114 and 124.)
+
+
+=TO FRY FISH=
+
+Fish to be fried are first well washed and dried, then dredged with
+salt, pepper, and flour, then dipped in egg, and rolled in bread or
+cracker crumbs. The fish should be completely incased in the egg and
+crumbs, leaving no opening for the grease to enter. The same rule
+applies to frying fish as to other articles (see page 72). They must
+have entire immersion, and the fat smoking hot.
+
+
+=TO FRY SMELTS=
+
+Smelts, after being washed, dried, and sprinkled with salt and pepper,
+are dipped in egg, then rolled in bread or cracker crumbs. The head and
+tail pinned together with a small skewer, or wooden tooth-pick (to be
+removed after they are fried), makes them into rings, and is a pretty
+way of serving them either by themselves or for garnishing other fish
+dishes. Cook only as many as will cover the bottom of the frying-basket
+at one time (see rules for frying, page 72). Dress the smelts on a
+folded napkin, and serve with Mayonnaise or with Tartare sauce.
+
+[Illustration: SMELTS FRIED IN RINGS. (SEE PAGE 117.)]
+
+
+=FRIED SMELTS ON SKEWERS=
+
+Use medium sized smelts, clean carefully, and wipe them dry. Dredge them
+with salt and pepper; dip them in egg and roll them in crumbs. String
+three or four on each skewer, the skewer passing through the eyes. Place
+them in a frying-basket, a few at a time, and immerse in very hot fat.
+Prepare at a time only as many as will go in the frying-basket. The time
+given to rolling them is only as long as required for the fat to regain
+the right degree of heat. Dress on a napkin and serve with Mayonnaise,
+Tartare sauce, or quarters of lemon.
+
+
+=BROILED SMELTS=
+
+Split the smelts down the back and remove the bone. Lay them on a hot
+broiler, which has been rubbed with suet, to prevent sticking. Broil
+over hot coals for two minutes on each side. Put into a dish some
+Bechamel sauce, and lay the broiled fish on the sauce, or they may be
+spread with maitre d'hotel sauce. Serve at once while very hot.
+
+
+=FRIED FILLETS OF FISH=
+
+Remove fillets as directed on page 112. Dip them in salted milk, roll in
+flour, then in egg and fresh bread crumbs. Fry as soon as prepared in
+hot fat. Fillets may also be cooked by sauteing. Arrange the fillets on
+a napkin or hot dish, overlapping each other. Serve with Bearnaise,
+Mayonnaise or Tartare sauce.
+
+
+=WHITEBAIT=
+
+Wash the whitebait with great care, and dry well by rubbing them in a
+napkin. Roll them in flour, using enough to entirely cover them. Toss
+them on a sieve to shake off the loose flour. Place them in a fine wire
+basket, and immerse in smoking hot fat for one minute, or just long
+enough to give them a light amber color. The fish are so small, it takes
+but a moment to cook them, and there is danger of burning them by
+leaving them in the fat too long. They should be crisp and dry. Only
+enough to make one layer on the bottom of the basket should be fried at
+once. Too many will cool the fat, and also will stick together. The fat
+must be brought to the right degree of heat before putting in the second
+basketful. They should be floured only just before going into the fat.
+The flour becomes damp if it remains on the fish for any time, and they
+will then neither take color nor become crisp. Turn them on to a paper,
+sprinkle with salt, and keep them in a warm oven until all are cooked.
+Have a hot dish with a folded napkin on it standing on the warming
+shelf. Place the whitebait between the folds of the napkin, and serve
+immediately. They cool rapidly, and should not be cooked until just in
+time to serve. They are easily prepared, and very nice when crisp and
+hot, but will not be right unless care is given to the small details.
+
+Serve with quarters of lemon.
+
+[Illustration: WHITEBAIT. (SEE PAGE 118.)]
+
+
+=BOILED HALIBUT STEAKS=
+
+Lay two chicken halibut steaks into a shallow stew pan, sufficiently
+large to allow them to lie side by side. Cover them with court bouillon
+or with hot water, and add a slice of carrot, onion, piece of celery,
+bay-leaf, four cloves, six peppercorns, and juice of half a lemon. Let
+simmer until done. Or they may be put into a baking pan, with a little
+water, covered with another pan or greased paper, and steamed in the
+oven until cooked. Lift out the slices with a skimmer and broad knife,
+and with care not to break them; lay them on a hot dish, one a little
+overlapping the other.
+
+Garnish with boiled potato balls, and serve with egg or with Hollandaise
+sauce. (See illustration facing page 124.)
+
+
+=HALIBUT--TURKISH STYLE=
+
+(RECEIPT GIVEN AT ONE OF MRS. RORER'S LECTURES)
+
+Place on the bottom of a baking pan two or three slices of onion, then a
+cutlet of halibut, and put a tablespoonful of butter cut into small bits
+over the top of the fish. Cut three skinned tomatoes into quarters,
+slice a sweet green pepper into ribbons, and put the tomatoes and pepper
+on the fish. Put the pan on the shelf of the oven to cook first the
+vegetables, but do not let it remain there long enough to discolor or
+change their shape; then remove it to the bottom of the oven, baste it
+well, and finish the cooking. When done place it carefully on a hot
+dish, and pour over it the juice from the pan. The fish should retain
+its whiteness, and the vegetables their color, giving a very pretty as
+well as delicious dish.
+
+
+=SCALLOPED FISH=
+
+ 2 pounds halibut or any white fish, boiled with
+ 1 slice onion,
+ 1 stalk celery,
+ 1 sprig parsley,
+ 6 peppercorns,
+ 4 cloves,
+ 1 bay-leaf,
+ Juice of one-half a lemon,
+ 1 cupful white sauce,
+ Mashed potato.
+
+Boil two pounds of fish in court bouillon until tender enough to flake.
+Make a white sauce of one tablespoonful butter, one tablespoonful flour,
+one cupful of milk, salt, pepper, and cayenne. (See white sauce, page
+278.) Boil four medium-sized potatoes, mash them, and season with one
+half teaspoonful of salt, one quarter teaspoonful of pepper, and a
+little cream or milk; beat them until light, then add the whites of four
+eggs beaten stiff.
+
+Fill a baking dish one half full of the flaked fish, pour over it the
+white sauce, and cover the top with potato, leaving the potato rough and
+irregular. Place in the oven for fifteen minutes, or until browned.
+Cream may be substituted for the white sauce, and enough used to
+moisten well the fish. Shells or individual cups may be used instead of
+a baking dish.
+
+
+=SCALLOPED FISH AU GRATIN=
+
+Make a Bechamel sauce (see page 279). Take some seasoned mashed potato,
+and mix with it one beaten egg. Make with the potato a border around a
+flat dish. In the center of the ring of potato spread a layer of sauce,
+over this a layer of flaked cod fish, then another layer of sauce and
+fish, cover the top with sauce, sprinkle it with bread crumbs and grated
+cheese (parmesan or dairy), and a few pieces of butter. Bake in a hot
+oven until browned, and serve in the same dish. The potato border may be
+made ornamental by pressing the potato through a pastry bag with tube,
+the same as is used for potato roses (see page 202). The potato will not
+hold its form unless egg is mixed with it.
+
+White sauce may be used instead of Bechamel, but is not quite as good.
+One layer of fish in large flakes, covered with sauce, crumbs, and
+cheese, and browned with a border of boiled potato balls laid around
+regularly, is also a good way of serving it when a small quantity is
+needed.
+
+
+=FISH CHOPS=
+
+ 1 pound or 1 pint of fish.
+ 1 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of pepper.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of onion juice.
+ 1 cupful of milk or cream.
+ 1 tablespoonful of butter.
+ 2 rounded tablespoonfuls flour.
+ Yolks of two eggs.
+ 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley.
+
+Put in a double boiler one cupful of cream or milk; when scalded, stir
+into it the butter and flour rubbed together, and cook for five minutes.
+Remove from the fire and mix in, stirring all the time, the beaten yolks
+of two eggs, put again on the fire, and stir until thickened.
+
+Take one pound or pint of shredded boiled fish, sprinkle over it one
+teaspoonful of salt, one half teaspoonful of pepper, one tablespoonful
+of chopped parsley, ten drops of lemon juice. Mix the seasoned fish with
+the white sauce, then spread it on a dish and set aside for several
+hours to cool and stiffen. It will not be difficult to mold if it stands
+long enough. Take a tablespoonful of the mixture in the hands, and mold
+into the form of chops, round at one end and pointed at the other; roll
+the chops in crumbs, then in beaten egg, then in coarse bread crumbs
+grated from the loaf (see croquettes, page 293). After the chops are
+molded let them stand for a time to stiffen before frying. Place them in
+a basket four at a time, and immerse in hot fat until an amber color.
+Place on a paper to dry. When all are done pierce a small hole in the
+pointed end with a fork, and insert a sprig of parsley. Dress on a
+napkin, and serve with tomato, Bearnaise, or Hollandaise sauce. Any kind
+of fish may be used for the chops. (See illustration facing page 130.)
+
+[Illustration: FISH CHOPS. (SEE PAGE 121.)]
+
+[Illustration: FISH CHOPS.]
+
+
+=FILLETS BAKED WITH CUSTARD OR TOMATOES=
+
+Remove the fillets from any white fish, dredge them with salt and
+pepper, and lay them in a baking pan, one on top of the other. Beat two
+eggs, and add to them
+
+ 2 cupfuls of milk,
+ 1 saltspoonful of salt,
+ 1 saltspoonful of pepper,
+ 1 saltspoonful of nutmeg,
+ 3 soda crackers rolled to powder.
+
+Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into the pan with the fish, and set it
+in the oven. When the butter is melted, add one half the milk mixture,
+and baste the fish with it frequently. When the custard becomes set add
+a little more of the milk, and continue the operation until the fish is
+cooked. Lift the fish carefully from the pan with a pancake turner and
+broad knife. Place it on a hot dish, and pile on the top the flakes of
+custard. Instead of the milk mixture tomato may be used if preferred.
+
+To one half can of tomato add
+
+ 1 teaspoonful of salt,
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of thyme,
+ 1/4 teaspoonful of pepper,
+ 1 slice of onion,
+ 1 bay-leaf,
+ 3 cloves.
+
+The whole of the tomato mixture may be put in the pan as soon as the
+butter is melted.
+
+
+=COLD FISH=
+
+Any kind of fish which is good boiled may be served cold, and in summer
+is often more acceptable in this way. Bass, trout, halibut, salmon, and
+bluefish are recommended. Serve with cold Bearnaise, Mayonnaise, or
+Tartare sauce. Garnish with lettuce leaves or water-cresses, and
+hard-boiled eggs.
+
+
+=FISH PUDDING=
+
+ 1 pound or pint boiled halibut.
+ 1/2 cupful of cream or milk.
+ 1-1/2 tablespoonfuls of butter.
+ 1/2 tablespoonful of flour.
+ 1-1/2 teaspoonfuls salt.
+ 1/4 teaspoonful pepper.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful onion juice.
+ 2 eggs.
+
+Pound the fish in a mortar until it is thoroughly mashed, then rub it
+through a puree sieve; season the fish pulp with salt, pepper, and onion
+juice. Put the butter into a saucepan when melted, add the flour, and
+cook for a few minutes, then add slowly the cream or milk, stirring
+constantly until well scalded; then add the fish pulp, take from the
+fire, add the beaten eggs, and mix thoroughly.
+
+Butter well a border or ring mold holding a pint or little more; put in
+the mixture, pressing it well against the sides to remove any air
+bubbles. Cover the mold with a greased paper, and set in a pan of warm
+water covering one half the mold. Place in moderate oven for thirty
+minutes, and do not let the water boil. Place the form of fish on a hot
+dish, fill the center with boiled potato balls (see page 203), pour over
+the potato balls some Bechamel or some white sauce, sprinkle chopped
+parsley over the top. Serve with the fish a generous amount of Bechamel
+or of white sauce. This is a very good dish.
+
+
+=FISH TIMBALE=
+
+Cut one pound of very fresh white uncooked fish into small pieces, put
+it in a mortar, and pound until the fiber is well separated from the
+meat, then press it through a puree sieve. To every cupful of fish pulp
+add one tablespoonful of bread crumbs soaked in milk or cream until soft
+and then pressed through a sieve; add also the beaten yolk of one egg,
+ten drops of onion juice, one teaspoonful of salt, one quarter
+teaspoonful of pepper, and a dash of nutmeg. Beat all well together and
+for some time, to make it light; then for every cupful of pulp beat in
+lightly the whites of two eggs whipped very stiff. Put the mixture into
+a well buttered mold, filling it only three quarters full, set it into a
+pan of warm water, covering three quarters of the mold, cover the mold
+with a greased paper, and place in a moderate oven for twenty minutes.
+Do not let the water boil. Turn the timbale on to a hot dish, and pour
+around, but not over it, a Bechamel or a tomato sauce. This is a very
+delicate fish dish, and is particularly good when made of shad.
+
+
+=FISH DISH FOR A PINK LUNCHEON=
+
+Cut halibut or any firm white fish into cutlets three quarters of an
+inch thick, two inches wide, and three inches long. Dredge with salt,
+pepper, and paprica. Lay them in a pan so they do not touch, cover with
+salted water, cover the pan, and let them steam in the oven for ten or
+fifteen minutes until cooked, but remove while they are still firm
+enough to retain shape. Pound the trimmings of the fish in a mortar,
+pass it through a sieve, and to one half cupful of the fish pulp add a
+thickening made as follows: put a dessert-spoonful of butter in a
+saucepan on the fire; when it is melted add a dessert-spoonful of flour,
+cook for a minute without coloring, add three tablespoonfuls of cream or
+milk, a quarter teaspoonful of salt and a dash of pepper, remove it from
+the fire. Stir in the half cupful of fish pulp and one beaten egg; color
+it a delicate pink with a few drops of cochineal, beat the whole until
+light, and spread the cutlets of fish with this mixture one quarter inch
+thick; smooth it carefully on top and sides with a wet knife. Place the
+pieces in a pan, cover, set it into another pan containing hot water,
+and let steam in the oven for ten or fifteen minutes. Range the pieces
+standing on end around a socle of rice or hominy (see page 326); mask
+the top of the socle with prawns, or with parsley, or with water
+cresses, and a few pink roses or pink carnations. Serve with Hollandaise
+sauce, colored green or pink.
+
+The pink cutlets may be garnished with capers, or with a thin slice of
+pickle cut into fancy shape with cutter.
+
+[Illustration: FISH STEAKS SAUTED OR BOILED, GARNISHED WITH POTATO
+BALLS, WATER-CRESS, AND LEMON.]
+
+[Illustration: CREAMED FISH IN SHELLS.]
+
+
+=ROLLED FILLETS OF FLOUNDER=
+
+Select flounders of uniform size, and large enough to make two strips
+about two and a half inches wide on each side, each fish giving four
+fillets. Marinate them, or else dredge with salt and pepper, and dip
+into butter. Roll them, beginning at the broad end, and fasten with a
+wooden tooth-pick. Egg and bread-crumb them, and fry in hot fat for
+seven minutes. Fry only four at a time, that the fat may not be too much
+cooled when they go in. Remove the skewer carefully, and serve with
+remoulade, Tartare, or tomato sauce.
+
+[Illustration: TURBANS, OR ROLLED FILLETS OF FISH. (SEE PAGE 125.)]
+
+
+=SHAD=
+
+Shad may be broiled, and spread with maitre d'hotel sauce; stuffed and
+baked, and served with brown sauce; or it may be boiled and served with
+Hollandaise, Bechamel, or egg sauce.
+
+
+=PLANKED SHAD=
+
+Have a hardwood board one and a half or two inches thick. Split the shad
+as for broiling, place it on the board with the skin side down, and
+fasten with a few tacks; place the board before the fire, and roast
+until done; rub it from time to time with a little butter. The plank
+should be well-seasoned, and be heated before placing the shad on it, or
+it will impart the flavor of the wood to the fish.
+
+A substitute for this mode of cooking is to put into a baking-pan a
+tablespoonful of drippings; when very hot lay in the shad with the skin
+side up, place it under the coals, and when the skin is puffed and
+blistered it is done. Turn it onto a hot dish, dredge with salt and
+pepper, cover with bits of butter, and serve with quarters of lemon.
+
+
+=BROILED SHAD ROE=
+
+Wash and dry the roe with care not to break the skin, place it on a well
+greased broiler, and rub it with butter once or twice during the time of
+broiling; cook to a nice brown, place it on a hot dish, and cover with a
+maitre d'hotel sauce.
+
+Garnish the dish with a wreath of water cresses. This makes a good fish
+course for luncheon. Shad roe may also be cooked in a saute-pan, using
+one half butter and one half drippings or lard.
+
+
+=SHAD ROE CROQUETTES, NO. 1=
+
+Put the roes from two fishes into boiling salted water, and simmer for
+fifteen minutes; when cool, remove the skin, and mash them with a fork,
+so the little eggs will be separated but not broken: scald one cupful of
+cream or milk, and stir into it one tablespoonful of butter and two
+tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed together. Take the paste on a spoon, and
+stir it in the cream until dissolved. Remove from the fire, and add the
+beaten yolks of two eggs and the seasoning--one tablespoonful of chopped
+parsley, juice of one half a lemon, dash of nutmeg, salt, pepper, and
+cayenne to taste. Place again on the fire, and stir until the sauce is
+thickened; then add the mashed shad roe, pour the mixture on a dish, and
+set away to cool for several hours. Form it into small croquettes, egg
+and bread-crumb them, using crumbs grated from the loaf; fry in hot fat
+until an amber color. Dress on a folded napkin, garnish with parsley,
+and serve with Mayonnaise, Tartare, or Bearnaise sauce.
+
+=SHAD ROE CROQUETTES, NO. 2=
+
+Put shad roes into salted boiling water, and simmer for fifteen minutes;
+remove with care not to break the skin, and place in cold water; when
+cold, dry them, and with a sharp knife cut them into pieces two inches
+thick; dredge them with salt, pepper, and lemon juice, dip them in
+beaten egg, roll in grated white bread crumbs, place in a wire basket,
+and fry in hot fat. Dress on a napkin, and serve with Tartare or
+Bearnaise sauce.
+
+
+=SALT MACKEREL=
+
+Soak the mackerel for twelve hours or more, with the skin side up, and
+change the water several times. Simmer it for fifteen or twenty minutes;
+and, if convenient, have in the water one teaspoonful of vinegar, one
+bay-leaf, one slice of onion, and a sprig of parsley. When tender, place
+carefully on a hot dish, and pour over it a cream sauce; or the soaked
+fish may be broiled, and spread with butter, pepper, lemon juice, and
+chopped parsley.
+
+
+=CREAMED MACKEREL=
+
+Soak the mackerel for twenty-four hours, then lay it in a shallow
+stew-pan, and cover with milk or cream. Simmer for fifteen minutes.
+Remove the fish carefully, and place it on a hot dish. Add to the milk
+or cream in the stew-pan one tablespoonful each of butter and flour
+rubbed together. Stir until a little thickened, and the flour cooked;
+add a little pepper and chopped parsley, and pour the sauce over the
+fish.
+
+
+=SALT CODFISH=
+
+Soak the codfish several hours, changing the water three times. Simmer
+it for 20 minutes or until it is tender. Take out carefully all the
+bones. Make a white sauce of one tablespoonful each of butter and flour,
+and one cupful of milk; add to it, off the fire, two beaten yolks.
+Return to the fire, and stir in one cupful of shredded codfish. Taste to
+see if it needs seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve it on slices of
+toast, or place it in center of dish, and surround it with triangular
+croutons.
+
+
+=CLUB HOUSE FISH BALLS=
+
+Boil the quantity of codfish that will be needed, changing the water
+once, that it may not be too salt. While the fish is hot, pick it very
+fine, so that it is feathery; it cannot be done fine enough with a fork,
+and should be picked by hand. At the same time have hot boiled potatoes
+ready. Mash them thoroughly, and make them creamy with milk and a
+good-sized lump of butter. To three cupfuls of the mashed potatoes take
+one and one half cupfuls of fish. The fish should not be packed down.
+Beat one egg lightly, and stir into the other ingredients; season to
+taste. Beat the mixture well together and until light, then mold it into
+small balls, handling lightly, and before frying, roll the balls in
+flour. Fry them in smoking hot fat until a golden color.[128-*]
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[128-*] This mixture can be spread on a pan, then marked into squares,
+and baked in the oven. This method makes it a more wholesome dish for
+those who are unable to eat fried preparations.--M. R.
+
+
+=BROILED SARDINES ON TOAST=
+
+Drain sardines from the can. Lay them on a broiler over hot coals for
+two minutes on each side. Have ready hot toast cut the right size to
+hold three of the fish. Arrange them neatly on the toast, and moisten
+with a little heated oil from the can.
+
+
+=FRESH FISH BALLS=
+
+To one cupful of flaked boiled fish add a cream sauce made of one
+tablespoonful of butter, one tablespoonful of flour, and one half cupful
+of milk.
+
+Let the sauce be very stiff, so it leaves the sides of the pan; mix it
+well with the fish, and when hot add two beaten eggs, pepper, and salt.
+Drop the mixture, which should be like thick batter, from a spoon into
+very hot fat.
+
+It will puff, and be very light.
+
+
+=SALMON=
+
+Put salmon into hot water to preserve its color, and simmer in
+acidulated water or in court bouillon, as is the rule for all fish. The
+middle cuts are preferable where a small quantity only is needed. The
+head piece makes a pretty cut, but is not profitable to buy, as the head
+adds materially to the weight. Where a large fish is to be used for a
+supper or cold dish, it may be cut in halves or sections (see page 114)
+if too large for the fish kettle. Cold salmon can be elaborately
+garnished with aspic, colored mayonnaise, shrimps, gherkins, capers,
+etc.
+
+
+=CANNED SALMON=
+
+The canned salmon is very good, and makes a palatable emergency dish. It
+can be prepared quickly, as the fish is already cooked. It may be
+broiled, and spread with maitre d'hotel butter, or it can be served on
+toast with cream dressing; or a white sauce can be made, and the fish
+put in it to heat; or the fish may be heated in water, and served as
+cutlets with Bearnaise sauce.
+
+
+=SALMON CUTLETS=
+
+Prepare salmon cutlets the same as boiled halibut steaks (page 119), or
+cut them in half heart or chop shapes, roll them in egg and bread
+crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Arrange them in a circle overlapping one
+another, and serve with Bearnaise, Hollandaise or Tartare sauce.
+
+
+=BROILED SLICES OF SALMON=
+
+Marinate the slices for one hour. Broil on both sides; baste with
+butter, so that they will not brown. Place them on a hot dish, and
+sprinkle with salt, pepper, lemon juice, and chopped parsley. Serve with
+them a Bearnaise sauce or quarters of lemon.
+
+
+=SLICES OF SALMON WITH MAYONNAISE=
+
+Simmer two slices of salmon in court bouillon until done; remove
+carefully so as not to break them. When perfectly cold cover one side of
+them with a smooth layer of mayonnaise made with jelly (see page 290),
+and colored a delicate green. Arrange a row of sliced gherkins or of
+capers around the edge. Place a wedge-shaped socle of bread in the
+middle of a dish, and fasten it to the dish with white of egg, so that
+it will be firm; rest the slices against it; conceal the side of socle
+with garnish of fresh lettuce leaves. Place a bunch of parsley or
+water-cress or if convenient a bouquet of nasturtium blossoms, in the
+hollow center of the fish. Use hard-boiled eggs cut in halves for
+further garnishing.
+
+This makes a handsome supper dish for card or theater party. It should
+be kept in a cool place until ready to serve.
+
+
+=FILLETS OF SALMON FOR GREEN LUNCHEON=
+
+Cut salmon into pieces three quarters of an inch thick and two and a
+half inches square, trim them carefully, and flatten with heavy knife so
+they will be uniform. Lay them in a baking-pan so they do not touch,
+cover them with salted water, and simmer them in the oven for about
+twenty minutes, or until well cooked, but still firm. Take them out
+carefully, skin and dry them, and when cold marinate them. Make a jelly
+mayonnaise (see page 290), using a little tarragon vinegar; color it
+green; cover the fillets with the green mayonnaise while it is soft
+enough to become perfectly smooth, and set them away in a cool, dry
+place. When ready to serve place the fillets on the top of a socle made
+of hominy, and ornamented on the sides with green beans and balls of
+carrot, or green peas (see illustration page 322). Arrange a macedoine
+of vegetables (see page 216) around the base of the socle. Serve with it
+a mayonnaise dressing. One pound of salmon will cut into nine cutlets.
+
+
+=CROUSTADE OF SHRIMPS=
+
+Make a sauce the same as for lobster filling (see page 140), and
+substitute potted shrimp meat for the lobster. Serve in croustades of
+rice. This is a good luncheon dish, and easily prepared.
+
+
+
+SHELL-FISH, LOBSTERS, CRABS
+
+
+=OYSTERS=
+
+Oysters are out of season during the months of May, June, July, and
+August. The rule is to use oysters only in the months that have the
+letter r in the name.
+
+ [Sidenote: How to serve on half-shell.]
+
+When served raw, the small varieties are the best. They are left on the
+deep half of the shell. Six are allowed for each person. They should be
+arranged regularly on the plate around a little ice broken fine, the
+valve side toward the center of plate, and in the center of the circle a
+quarter of a lemon. A few sprigs of parsley or cress under the lemon
+makes a pretty garnish. Black and red pepper are served with raw
+oysters, and also very thin slices of buttered brown bread.
+
+ [Sidenote: Precaution.]
+
+Oysters served raw should be very fresh. It is therefore not desirable
+to use them in this way when one lives inland. To prevent the chance of
+any bits of shell getting into oyster dishes, they should be washed;
+each oyster being taken on a fork and dipped into water. As they are
+largely composed of water, this will not injure their flavor. The juice
+should be strained through a coarse sieve.
+
+Cracker crumbs are better than bread crumbs for mixing with oysters.
+
+ [Sidenote: Cooking.]
+
+Oysters require very little cooking. They are put over the fire in their
+own liquor, and removed the moment they are plump or the gills are
+curled. More cooking than this makes them tough.
+
+
+=FRIED OYSTERS=
+
+Drain the oysters. Roll each one first in cracker crumbs, then in egg
+mixed with a little milk, and seasoned with pepper and salt, then again
+in the cracker crumbs. Use first the crumbs, as the egg will not
+otherwise adhere well to the oyster. Place them in a wire basket, and
+immerse in smoking hot fat. As soon as they assume a light-amber color
+drain, and serve immediately.
+
+Oysters should not be fried until the moment of serving, for they are
+quickly cooked and it is essential to have them hot.
+
+Pickles, chow-chow, horse-radish, cold-slaw, or celery salad are served
+with fried oysters, and may be used as a garnish or be served
+separately.
+
+
+=OYSTERS A LA VILLEROI=
+
+Prepare a _Villeroi_ sauce (see page 280). Heat the oysters in their own
+liquor until plump, then remove and wipe them dry. Place them on a pan
+turned bottom side up, leaving a space around each one. With a spoon
+cover each oyster with the thick sauce, and set them away for several
+hours to cool and harden; then trim them to good shape. Take one at a
+time on a broad knife or spatula, and, holding it over a dish containing
+beaten egg, coat it well with egg; then cover it with fresh bread crumbs
+and draw the coating around the whole oyster. Place the rolled oysters
+in a wire basket, and immerse in hot fat until an amber color. Dress
+them on a folded napkin, and serve with a Bechamel sauce, or with the
+same sauce with which they are coated, diluted with stock or oyster
+juice. A little chopped truffle and mushrooms improve the sauce.
+
+
+=BROILED OYSTERS=
+
+Dry the oysters. Heat the broiler well, and grease it by rubbing it with
+a slice of salt pork or with suet. Dip the oysters into melted butter,
+or into oil, and lay them on the broiler. Broil them on both sides for
+a few minutes over bright coals. Have ready some toast cut into uniform
+shapes and moistened with oyster juice. On each crouton place three or
+four oysters, and pour over them a little melted maitre d'hotel sauce.
+
+
+=PANNED OYSTERS=
+
+Heat a baking-pan very hot. Put into it a tablespoonful of butter; then
+the oysters, which have been well drained. Let them cook in hot oven
+until browned. Have ready some toast cut into even pieces; soften them
+with some liquor from the pan; place three or four oysters on each
+piece, and pour over them the liquor from the pan, which should be
+reduced if too watery. Sprinkle with a little parsley chopped very fine.
+
+
+=ROASTED OYSTERS=
+
+Wash the shells well with a brush and cold water. Place them in a pan
+with the deep half of shell down. Put them into a hot oven, and bake
+until the shell opens. Remove the top shell carefully so as not to lose
+the liquor. Arrange them on plates, and on each oyster place a piece of
+butter and a little pepper and salt. If roasted too long the oysters
+will be tough.
+
+
+=OYSTERS A LA POULETTE=
+
+ 25 oysters.
+ 1 cupful of oyster juice.
+ 1 cupful of milk or cream.
+ Yolks of 3 eggs.
+ 2 tablespoonfuls of butter.
+ 4 tablespoonfuls of flour.
+ 1 scant teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1 saltspoonful of pepper.
+ Dash of cayenne pepper.
+ Dash of nutmeg.
+
+Scald the oysters in their liquor until plump. Put into a saucepan two
+tablespoonfuls of butter; when melted stir in carefully the flour, and
+cook, but not brown. Stir in slowly the oyster juice; when perfectly
+smooth add the milk or cream and the seasoning. Take it off the fire,
+and when a little cooled stir in the beaten yolks. Place again on the
+fire, and stir until thickened; then pour it over the oysters on a hot
+dish. Place a border of triangular-shaped croutons around the dish, and
+serve at once. Do not add the cream and eggs to the sauce until time to
+serve, so that there may be no delay, as this dish is not good unless
+hot, and if kept standing the sauce will curdle. The sauce should be of
+the consistency of cream.
+
+
+=SCALLOPED OYSTERS=
+
+Place in a shallow baking-dish a layer of oysters; over this spread a
+layer of bread or cracker crumbs; sprinkle it with salt, pepper, and
+bits of butter; alternate the layers until the dish is full, having
+crumbs on top, well dotted with bits of butter. Pour over the whole
+enough oyster juice to moisten it. Bake in a hot oven fifteen or twenty
+minutes, or until browned; serve it in the same dish in which it is
+baked. Individual scallop-cups or shells may also be used, enough for
+one person being placed in each cup.
+
+
+=OYSTER FILLING FOR PATTIES=
+
+For one dozen oysters,
+
+ 1 tablespoonful of butter.
+ 1 tablespoonful of flour.
+ 1 cupful of milk or cream.
+ Yolks of 2 eggs.
+ Dash of cayenne.
+ Dash of mace.
+
+Scald the oysters in their liquor; drain and cut each one into four
+pieces with a silver knife. Put the butter into a saucepan, and when
+melted add the flour; cook, but not brown; then add the milk or cream,
+and stir until smooth; add the seasoning, and remove from the fire. When
+a little cooled add the beaten yolks, stirring vigorously; place again
+on the fire, and stir until thickened; then add the pieces of oysters.
+The filling should be soft and creamy, and the patty cases should be
+heated before the filling is put in.
+
+This mixture is improved by using an equal quantity of oysters and
+mushrooms, either fresh or canned, and should be highly seasoned. It may
+be served in bread-boxes (see page 82), or in crusts prepared by
+removing the crumb from rolls, then browning them in the oven. Minced
+oysters and clams in equal parts, with some of their juice used in
+making the sauce, also make a good filling.
+
+The same mixture may be made into croquettes, in which case two
+tablespoonfuls of flour instead of one are used, also a few more
+oysters, and the sauce is allowed to become thicker (see croquettes,
+page 292).
+
+
+=CLAMS=
+
+Clams are served raw on the half shell during the months that oysters
+are out of season. Little Neck clams are best for this purpose, and the
+smaller they are the better. The manner of serving them is the same as
+for raw oysters. As many as ten or twelve are allowed for each person.
+
+
+TO OPEN CLAMS
+
+To remove clams from the shells when wanted for cooking, wash the shells
+well with a brush and clear water. Place them in a saucepan or pot with
+a very little hot water; cover the pot, and let them steam until the
+shells open; strain the liquor through a fine cloth, or let it cool and
+settle; then pour it off carefully in order to free it from sand the
+shells may have contained.
+
+
+=CREAMED CLAMS=
+
+Scald the clams in their own liquor. If opened by steaming, they are
+sufficiently cooked. Chop them into fine dice and measure. To each
+cupful of chopped clams add one cupful of thick cream sauce. For one
+cupful of sauce put into a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter; when
+melted, stir in one tablespoonful of flour; cook, but not brown it; then
+add slowly one half cupful of clam liquor and one half cupful of milk or
+cream; season with pepper, and salt if necessary. Let it cook until a
+smooth, thick cream, stirring all the time; add the clams only just
+before serving. Pour the mixture over small pieces of toast laid on the
+bottom of the dish.
+
+
+=ROASTED CLAMS=
+
+Clams are roasted in the same manner as oysters (see page 133).
+
+
+=CLAM FRITTERS=
+
+Mix chopped clams with fritter batter (see page 426), using clam liquor
+instead of water in making the batter, and have the batter quite thick.
+Drop the mixture from a tablespoon into hot fat, and fry until an amber
+color.
+
+
+=SCALLOPS=
+
+Scallops are dried with a napkin, then rolled in cracker dust, then in
+egg and crumbs, and immersed in hot fat for a minute, or just long
+enough to take a light color. Mix salt and pepper with the crumbs.
+
+
+=LOBSTERS=
+
+Lobsters are in season from March to November. They are in the market
+all the year, but during the off months they are light and stringy.
+Their size increases with their age; therefore a small, heavy lobster is
+better than a large one.
+
+They are unwholesome if boiled after they are dead. If bought already
+boiled, their freshness may be judged by the tail, which should be
+curled and springy. If it is not curled up, or will not spring back when
+straightened, the lobster was dead when boiled, and should be rejected.
+
+Lobsters may be killed just before being boiled by running a pointed
+knife into the back through the joint between the body and tail shells.
+
+
+TO BOIL A LOBSTER
+
+Have in a kettle enough water to entirely cover the lobster. Before it
+becomes very hot take the lobster by the back and put it into the warm
+water head first. This smothers instead of scalding it to death, and
+seems the most merciful way of killing it. A lobster treated in this way
+does not change position, and seems to have been killed instantly.
+Cover the pot. When it boils, add one tablespoonful of salt, and boil
+for thirty minutes. It will be tough and stringy if cooked longer.
+
+
+TO OPEN A LOBSTER
+
+After the lobster is cold, break apart the tail and body; twist off the
+claws; remove the body from the shell; shake out the green, fatty
+substance and the coral, and save them to mix with the meat. Remove the
+stomach, which lies directly under the head, and is called the "lady";
+remove also the woolly gills; break open the body, and take out the
+small pieces of meat which lie under the gills; break open the claws and
+remove the meat. With scissors or a knife cut the bony membrane on the
+inside of the tail; remove the meat in one piece, and open it to remove
+the intestine, which runs the entire length of the tail-piece. The
+intestine is sometimes without color.
+
+
+TO BROIL A LOBSTER
+
+With a sharp knife cut quickly down the back, following a line which
+runs down the middle of the shell. The fishman will ordinarily do this,
+and it is as quick and merciful as any way of killing. The lobster may
+be killed, if preferred, by running a knife into the back as directed
+above, and then opened with a heavy knife and mallet. Remove the
+stomach, or lady, and the intestine. Lay the two pieces on the broiler,
+with the shell part down, and broil over a moderate fire for thirty
+minutes or longer. Spread a little butter over it when half done, to
+keep it moist; spread butter, salt, and pepper over it when done; open
+the claws with a nut-cracker or mallet, and serve immediately.
+
+
+TO BAKE A LOBSTER
+
+Split the lobster open in the same way as for broiling. Remove the
+stomach, or lady, and the intestine; lay the two pieces in a baking-pan;
+spread over the top of each salt, pepper and butter, and sprinkle with
+bread crumbs; bake about forty minutes in a hot oven; during the baking
+baste it twice by pouring over it a little melted butter. Baked and
+broiled lobsters are considered a great delicacy.
+
+
+=LOBSTER FARCI=
+
+ 2 cupfuls of boiled lobster meat.
+ 1 cupful of milk or cream.
+ 2 tablespoonfuls of butter.
+ 1 tablespoonful of flour.
+ Yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs.
+ 2 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs.
+ 1 tablespoonful of salt.
+ 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley.
+ 1/4 nutmeg.
+ Dash of cayenne pepper or of paprica.
+
+Put into a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter; when it bubbles add one
+tablespoonful of flour; cook, but not brown; add one cupful of milk
+slowly, and stir until smooth; then remove it from the fire; add the
+salt, the pepper, the parsley, the yolks mashed fine, and lastly the
+lobster meat cut into pieces one half inch square. (Use a silver knife
+to cut lobster.) Be careful, in mixing, not to break the meat. Have the
+shell from which the meat was taken carefully washed and dried, leaving
+on the head; cut out neatly the inside shell of the tail-piece, and fit
+the two parts of the shell together. As the shell contracts in cooking,
+it is well to trim off a little from the sides of the body shell in
+order to leave an opening wide enough to admit a spoon in serving. Put
+the meat mixture into the shell. Cover the top with the bread crumbs,
+which have been moistened with one tablespoonful of butter. Place it in
+the oven for a few minutes to brown. If the meat of two lobsters is
+used, the shells of both may be used, or the two tail-shells may be
+fitted into one body shell, which will then hold all the meat.
+
+[Illustration: LOBSTER FARCI.]
+
+
+=LOBSTER CHOPS=
+
+The mixture for chops is prepared in the same manner as for farci,
+except that the meat is cut a little finer. After it is mixed with
+the white sauce, spread it on a platter to cool; when sufficiently cold,
+mold into the form of chops. Then dip in egg, roll in fresh bread crumbs
+(see croquettes, page 293), and immerse in hot fat until fried to an
+amber color. The chops will mold better if the mixture is left for some
+time to harden. The chops may also stand for some hours before being
+cooked. Tin forms are made for molding chops, but they are easily shaped
+without them if the mixture has stood long enough to stiffen. After they
+are fried, make a little opening in the pointed end, and insert a small
+claw.
+
+Serve the chops on a napkin, and garnish with lemon and parsley.
+
+[Illustration: LOBSTER CHOPS, SERVED STANDING.]
+
+[Illustration: LOBSTER CHOPS.]
+
+
+=LOBSTER A LA NEWBURG=
+
+One and a half cupfuls of boiled lobster meat cut into pieces one inch
+square.
+
+ 1 tablespoonful of butter.
+ 3/4 cup of Madeira or sherry.
+ 1 cupful of cream.
+ Yolk of two eggs.
+ 1 truffle chopped.
+ 1/4 teaspoonful of salt.
+ Dash of cayenne or paprica.
+
+Put the butter in a saucepan; when it has melted add the lobster meat,
+the chopped truffle, the salt, and the pepper; cover and let simmer for
+five minutes; then add the wine, and cook three minutes longer.
+
+Have ready two yolks and one cupful of cream well beaten together; add
+this to the lobster, shake the saucepan until the mixture is thickened,
+and serve immediately. This dish will not keep without curdling, and
+should not be put together until just in time to serve. The lobster may
+be prepared and kept hot. The rest of the cooking, from the time the
+wine goes in, requires but five minutes, so the time can be easily
+calculated. If the mixture is stirred the meat will be broken; shaking
+the pan mixes it sufficiently. This is a very good dish, and easily
+prepared; but it will not be right unless served as soon as it is
+cooked. The quantity given is enough for six people. Crab meat may be
+used in the same way.
+
+
+=LOBSTER STEW=
+
+Put into a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter and one teaspoonful of
+chopped onion. Before it takes color add one tablespoonful of flour, and
+cook, but not brown. Then add slowly one cupful of water in which the
+lobster was boiled, one cupful of milk, and one cupful of good stock.
+Add the lobster meat, and when it has become thoroughly hot remove the
+meat and place it on the dish on which it is to be served, arranging it
+in the shape of a lobster as far as possible. Cut the tail-piece into
+thick slices, without changing its position. Season the sauce with salt,
+pepper and cayenne, and pour it over the meat. Place around the edges
+triangular croutons, and garnish with head, small claws, and tail.
+
+
+=LOBSTER FILLING FOR PATTIES=
+
+ 1 cupful of lobster meat cut into dice.
+ 1 tablespoonful of butter.
+ 1 tablespoonful of flour.
+ 1 cupful of milk.
+ 1 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1/4 teaspoonful of pepper.
+ Dash of cayenne.
+ 2 yolks.
+
+Put the butter into a saucepan; when melted add the flour, and cook a
+few minutes, but not brown; add slowly the milk or cream, and stir until
+perfectly smooth. To this white sauce add the two yolks beaten, and stir
+them in off the fire; then add the meat, season, and replace on the fire
+until sufficiently thickened. Mix carefully with a wooden spoon, so as
+not to break the meat. The filling should be very creamy. The salpicon
+given below may be used for filling, if preferred.
+
+
+=SALPICON OF LOBSTER=
+
+ 1 tablespoonful of lobster meat cut into dice.
+ 6 mushrooms.
+ 1 truffle.
+ 1 tablespoonful of butter.
+ 1 teaspoonful of flour.
+ 1/4 cupful of white stock.
+ 1/4 cupful of cream.
+ Salt and cayenne.
+
+Put one level tablespoonful of butter into a saucepan, and when melted
+add one level tablespoonful of flour; cook, but not brown; add slowly
+the stock, and stir until perfectly smooth; then add the cream; after it
+begins to thicken add the lobster meat, the chopped truffle, and the
+mushrooms cut into dice. Season highly with salt and cayenne or paprica.
+Let simmer for five minutes. This must be creamy, but not too soft. It
+can be served as filling for patties or potato croustades, or may be
+served in paper boxes. This amount makes about a cupful of salpicon,
+which is enough for six patties.
+
+
+=CRABS=
+
+Crabs are in season during the months of May, June, July, and August.
+They may be had at other times, but are then light and stringy.
+Soft-shell crabs are best in July and August. Like lobsters, crabs must
+be bought while alive, and boiled in the same way. Put them head first
+into hot water. After five minutes add one tablespoonful of salt, and
+boil for thirty minutes.
+
+When cold remove the shells, the stomach, which is just under the head,
+the gills, and the intestine. Take out the meat carefully.
+
+
+=DEVILED CRABS=
+
+ 12 crabs.
+ 1 cupful of cream or milk.
+ 1-1/2 tablespoonfuls of butter.
+ 1 tablespoonful of flour.
+ 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley.
+ 1 teaspoonful salt.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful paprica or dash of cayenne.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of lemon juice.
+ Yolks of 4 hard-boiled eggs.
+
+To obtain enough meat to fill nine shells, use twelve crabs. After they
+are boiled remove the meat with care, breaking it as little as possible.
+
+Put into a double boiler the cream; when it is scalded add to it the
+flour and butter, which have been rubbed together; stir until smooth and
+thickened; then add the mashed yolks, the seasoning, and the crab meat.
+Mix well together, and taste to see if more seasoning is needed. Deviled
+crabs need to be highly seasoned. A little mustard may be used, if
+desired. Have the shells carefully washed and dried, and fill them with
+the mixture, rounding it well on top, and pressing it close to the edges
+of the shells, so that in frying none of the fat may enter. Smooth the
+top, and let stand until cold. Beat one egg with one tablespoonful of
+water, and, holding a shell over this, baste it with the egg, letting it
+run over the whole top, including the shell; then sprinkle with white
+bread crumbs. Put two at a time into a frying-basket, and immerse in
+very hot fat. It will take but a minute to color them. They may be
+browned in the oven, if preferred, in which case the egging is omitted,
+and a few pieces of butter are placed on top of the crumbs.
+
+
+=STUFFED CRABS WITH MUSHROOMS=
+
+ Meat of 6 crabs.
+ Mushrooms cut into dice the same quantity as of the crab meat.
+ 1 cupful of cream or milk.
+ 1 slice of onion.
+ 1 tablespoonful of butter.
+ 1 tablespoonful of flour.
+ 1 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of paprica, or dash of cayenne.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of lemon juice.
+ Yolks of 4 hard-boiled eggs.
+
+Put into a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter, and one slice of onion
+chopped fine; before it becomes brown, add one tablespoonful of flour;
+cook, but not brown; and add slowly one cupful of milk or cream. Stir
+until smooth and thickened; then add the mashed yolks, the seasoning,
+the crab meat, and the chopped mushrooms. This mixture should not be
+very soft. Fill the shells with it, and finish the same as deviled
+crabs.
+
+
+=SOFT-SHELL CRABS=
+
+Wash the crabs carefully; lift up the flap, and remove the sand-bag
+(stomach), gills, and intestine; dry them well, and dredge with salt and
+pepper. Roll in flour, and saute them in butter. Have a generous amount
+of butter in the frying-pan, and saute them on both sides; when done
+place them on a hot dish. To the butter in the frying-pan add a little
+lemon juice. Strain this over the crabs, and sprinkle them with parsley
+chopped very fine.
+
+Soft-shell crabs may also be fried, in which case they are first dipped
+in milk, then covered with fine bread-crumbs, and immersed in hot fat.
+
+They may also be broiled over a slow fire, and when done covered with
+maitre d'hotel sauce. The preferable way of cooking them is by the
+method first given.
+
+
+=OYSTER-CRABS=
+
+After they are carefully washed and dried, dip them in milk, then roll
+them in flour, and fry them for one minute in hot fat.
+
+Serve them on a hot napkin with quarters of lemon, or they may be served
+in fontage cups, or in paper boxes, or in shells. (See also
+oyster-crabs, page 310.)
+
+
+=CRABS ST. LAURENT=
+
+ 1 cupful of boiled crab meat (6 crabs).
+ 2 tablespoonfuls grated Parmesan cheese.
+ 2 tablespoonfuls white wine.
+ 1 tablespoonful of butter.
+ 1 tablespoonful of flour.
+ 1/2 cupful stock.
+ 1/2 cupful cream or milk.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful salt.
+ 1/4 teaspoonful pepper.
+ Dash of cayenne.
+
+Put into a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter; when melted add the
+flour; cook, but not brown; add slowly the stock, and stir until
+perfectly smooth; then add the cream, and when thickened, add the salt
+and pepper, then the crab meat and the cheese; simmer for a few minutes,
+and add the wine; spread this mixture over pieces of buttered toast cut
+in squares or circles; sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese, and place
+on each piece a small bit of butter; set in the oven for three minutes;
+serve very hot on a napkin garnished with parsley. This dish may be
+prepared in a chafing-dish, in which case the mixture must be placed on
+the toast and served directly from the chafing-dish.
+
+Boiled halibut may be substituted for the crab meat.
+
+
+=CRAB STEW=
+
+ 1/2 dozen crabs.
+ 1 quart milk.
+ Yolks of 4 eggs boiled hard.
+ 1/2 lemon.
+ 1 nutmeg.
+ 2 tablespoonfuls butter.
+ 1 tablespoonful flour.
+ 1 dessert spoonful mustard.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful salt.
+ 1/4 teaspoonful red pepper.
+
+Mash the hard-boiled yolks fine, and rub into them the butter, flour and
+mustard.
+
+Put the milk into a double boiler; when it is scalded stir in the
+mixture of egg, etc.; season, and just before serving stir in the crab
+meat, and add one cupful of sherry. Place in bottom of a deep dish a few
+thin slices of lemon and turn the stew over them.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+MEATS
+
+
+ [Sidenote: Slow cooking.]
+
+Long, slow cooking breaks down the fiber of meat, and so makes
+it more tender. Whatever method of cooking is employed, this
+fact should be remembered. Many of the tough pieces are the
+most nutritious ones, and can by slow cooking be made as
+acceptable as the more expensive cuts.
+
+ [Sidenote: Juices.]
+
+In order to shut in the juices, meat should at first be
+subjected to a high degree of heat for a short time. A crust
+or case will then be formed on the outside by the coagulation
+of the albumen, after which the heat should be lowered, and
+the cooking proceed slowly. The same rule holds for baking,
+where the oven must be very hot for the first few minutes
+only; for boiling, where the water must be boiling and covered
+for a time, and then placed where it will simmer only; for
+broiling, where the meat must be placed close to the coals at
+first, then held farther away.
+
+Tough meats are better boiled, because a lower degree of
+heat can be maintained and slower cooking insured.
+
+ [Sidenote: Degree of cooking.]
+
+Dark meats should be served underdone or red; the white
+meats thoroughly cooked, but not dried.
+
+ [Sidenote: Dry meats.]
+
+Dry meats are improved by being larded.
+
+ [Sidenote: Cleaning.]
+
+Clean meat by wiping it with a wet cloth, but do not put it
+in water.
+
+ [Sidenote: Seasoning.]
+
+Salt and pepper draw out the juices; therefore do not put
+them on meat before cooking, or until after the meat is
+seared, unless the meat is to be covered at once with egg
+and crumbs, or with flour.
+
+Do not pierce the meat with a fork while cooking, as it
+makes an outlet for the juices. If necessary to turn it, use
+two spoons.
+
+
+=TO ROAST BEEF=
+
+Time for cooking rib roast rare eight to ten minutes per pound; time for
+cooking rolled roast rare, ten to twelve minutes per pound.
+
+To roast beef on a spit before the fire is unquestionably the best
+method of cooking it; but as few kitchens are equipped for roasting
+meats, baking them in the oven is generally practised, and has come to
+be called roasting. Beef should be well streaked with fat, and have a
+bright-red color. Place the meat to be baked on a rack which will raise
+it a little above the bottom of the pan. Dredge the whole, top and
+sides, with flour. Place in a corner of the pan a half teaspoonful of
+salt and a quarter teaspoonful of pepper. Do not let them touch the raw
+meat, as they draw out the juices. Put into the pan also two
+tablespoonfuls of drippings. Place it in a very hot oven for fifteen or
+twenty minutes, or until the meat is browned; then shut off the drafts
+and lower the temperature of the oven, and cook slowly until done; baste
+frequently; do not put water in the pan, as it makes steam, and prevents
+browning. A roast has a better appearance if the ribs are not too long.
+They may be cut off and reserved for the soup pot, or broken and doubled
+under.
+
+Serve it standing on the ribs, and cut the slices in line with the ribs.
+
+For a rolled roast, remove the bones, roll it, and tie securely into
+good shape; when cooked, cut the cords and run through a fancy skewer
+holding at the head a slice of lemon or piece of carrot cut into
+ornamental shape. This piece of beef stands on the dish like a cylinder,
+and should be cut across horizontally.
+
+If the beef is cooked as directed it will have one quarter of an inch
+of seared meat; the rest will be of a uniform red color all through. If
+cooked in too hot an oven the center will be raw, while an inch or two
+of the outside will be much overdone, hard, and tasteless. (See
+illustration facing page 152.)
+
+[Illustration: ROLLED RIB ROAST OF BEEF GARNISHED WITH POTATOES ROASTED
+IN SAME DISH WITH THE BEEF. FANCY SKEWER GARNISHED WITH SLICES OF TURNIP
+AND CARROT, RUN INTO THE SIDE TO HOLD IT TOGETHER. (SEE PAGE 146.)]
+
+
+=YORKSHIRE PUDDING=
+
+Put two cupfuls of flour into a bowl, and mix in one half a teaspoonful
+of salt. Beat up three eggs, and stir them into the flour; then add two
+cupfuls of milk. Stir until the mixture is smooth, then turn it into a
+pan containing a little of the drippings from the roast beef. Let the
+batter be only one inch deep in the pan. Bake thirty to forty minutes.
+Cut the pudding in squares, and place it around the roast beef.
+
+
+=ROUND OF BEEF=
+
+Ten to twelve minutes per pound.
+
+The cut from the upper side of the round is a good roasting piece. It
+should be cooked very slowly after it is browned in order to make it
+tender. The under side of the round should be cooked _a la mode_, or
+braised.
+
+
+=BRAISED BEEF=
+
+Take one half cupful of salt pork, one half cupful each of carrot,
+turnip, onion, and celery, all cut into dice. Mix them together and
+spread them on a baking pan, reserving one half cupful for the top of
+the meat. On the bed of vegetables place a piece of beef cut from the
+upper or under side of the round, weighing five or six pounds. Dredge it
+with flour. Place it in hot oven to brown for twenty to twenty-five
+minutes. Then add two cupfuls of stock or water; a bouquet of herbs,
+consisting of parsley, six peppercorns, three cloves, one bay-leaf;
+spread the one half cupful of vegetables over the meat; add a half
+teaspoonful of salt to the pan, cover it closely with another pan,
+reduce the heat of the oven, and cook very slowly for four or five
+hours.
+
+Double pans are made which are especially good for braising, where the
+steam should be confined as much as possible, and the basting is done
+automatically. These pans should not be used for baking meats. If very
+close fitting pans are not used, the water must be renewed when
+necessary, and basting done frequently. The success of this dish depends
+upon slow cooking. Strain the sauce from the pan, season with salt and
+pepper; pour a little of the sauce over the meat; serve the rest in a
+sauce-boat. It is very like a Spanish sauce. The vegetables may be
+served around the meat if desired. This way of cooking can be done in a
+pot if more convenient, and is then called a pot roast.
+
+
+=BEEF A LA MODE=
+
+Use six or seven pounds of the upper round of beef for this dish. (It is
+very good cold when properly cooked.) The success depends upon very slow
+cooking. The vegetables give it a distinctive flavor.
+
+Make several deep incisions into the meat with a thin, sharp knife, or
+with a steel. Press into them lardoons of salt pork about half an inch
+square, and two or three inches long. This is called daubing, and the
+butcher will ordinarily do it if requested. Put trimmings of pork, or
+two tablespoonfuls of drippings, into the bottom of a large iron pot.
+When it is hot, put in the meat, and brown it on all sides by turning it
+to the bottom of the pot. This will take about half an hour. Next dredge
+it with flour, and brown that also. Then put a small plate under the
+beef to lift it a little off the bottom of the pot, and prevent its
+burning. Fill the pot with enough boiling water to half cover the meat.
+Add a half cupful each of sliced onions, carrots, and turnips, and a
+sprig of parsley. Cover the pot very tight, so the meat will cook in
+steam; and simmer it for four or five hours. Add more boiling water when
+necessary. When the meat is done, place it on a hot dish. Place some of
+the vegetables around and over it. Make a gravy as follows: put into a
+saucepan a tablespoonful of butter; when it bubbles, add a tablespoonful
+of flour, and stir until it is browned; then add a cupful of liquor
+strained from the pot in which the beef was cooked. If there is not a
+cupful of liquor in the pot, add enough hot water to make that quantity.
+Season with pepper and salt. This will resemble a Spanish sauce. It can
+be poured over the meat, or served separately.
+
+
+=BOUILLI=
+
+This dish is prepared usually from the meat used in making soup. Take a
+piece from the lower side of round; trim, and tie it into good shape;
+place it in the soup pot with cold water, allowing one quart of water to
+each pound of meat. Let it come slowly to the boiling point, and then
+let it simmer for four hours. After it has cooked two hours add a whole
+carrot, onion, and turnip, parsley, celery, six peppercorns, three
+cloves, one teaspoonful of salt. The meat will be tender if cooked very
+slowly, and not allowed to boil; but having been put into cold water,
+its juices will be extracted. Therefore the water is used as soup, and
+the meat will depend on a good sauce for flavor. Any rich brown sauce
+will do. Tomato or horseradish sauce is recommended. Cut the vegetables
+into fancy shapes with cutters, or into dice, and place them on the dish
+around the meat.
+
+
+=FILLET OF BEEF=
+
+Time, thirty minutes in hot oven.
+
+The fillet is the tenderloin of beef, and is taken from the underside of
+the sirloin cut. Remove, taking care not to make the meat ragged, the
+sinewy skin and the muscle from the top, and most of the fat from the
+other side. Fold the thin end under, trim it into good shape. Lard it
+plentifully, letting the whole upper surface be perforated with fine
+lardoons. Place in a small baking pan thin slices of larding pork, over
+the pork place a layer of chopped onion, carrot, turnip and celery; lay
+the tenderloin on top. Pour in the pan a cupful of stock, add one half
+teaspoonful of salt, one quarter teaspoonful of pepper, and a bouquet of
+parsley, one bay-leaf, and two cloves. Bake in a hot oven for thirty
+minutes, and baste frequently. The fillet should be rare. Remove it when
+done; strain off the gravy, and skim off the grease. Put into the same
+pan a tablespoonful each of butter and of flour; stir until they are
+browned; then add slowly the gravy strained from the pan; if not enough
+to give a cupful, add enough stock to make that measure. Stir until it
+boils; then add a canful of mushrooms (which have been drained), and let
+them simmer for five minutes; not longer, or the mushrooms will harden.
+Taste to see if the seasoning is right. Add a half teaspoonful of
+kitchen bouquet to make it brown. The sauce should be of the consistency
+of cream. A half cupful of Madeira or of sherry may be used in place of
+the mushrooms if preferred. Spread the sauce on the serving dish, and
+lay the fillet on it. Arrange the mushrooms top side up, evenly around
+the fillet. In carving cut the fillet diagonally, instead of straight
+across; and put a little gravy in the center of each slice. The time for
+cooking is always thirty minutes, for the weight is in the length, and
+not in the thickness of the meat.
+
+
+=HOW TO BUY A FILLET=
+
+A profitable way to obtain a fillet is to buy a large cut of the
+sirloin, remove the tenderloin, and have the top cut into two or more
+roasting pieces. Beef will keep for some time, and the butcher will hold
+it until called for. In this way it will cost twenty-two to twenty-five
+cents per pound, while, if bought by itself, it would be from eighty
+cents to one dollar per pound.
+
+For a moderate sized family it may seem too much beef to buy at one
+time; but it is the one kind of meat that can be served very often, and
+there is no waste. It is good hot or cold, warmed over or hashed. The
+suet is the best fat for frying purposes, and the bones make good soup.
+Part of the sirloin piece can be cut into steaks, and one of the
+roasting pieces rolled to give variety. The flank can be made into
+Hamburg steaks, or into soup. If judiciously cut there will be little
+left over to cook again.
+
+
+=COLD ROAST BEEF=
+
+Roasted and braised beef are both quite as good cold as hot, and in
+summer are sometimes preferable cold. Serve with cold beef a vegetable
+salad when it is used for dinner. Make the salad of string beans,
+asparagus, or a macedoine of vegetables. For a supper dish, the rolled
+rib roast can be made very attractive by garnishing it with aspic jelly
+cut into fancy forms. Place a large star of the jelly on top, and small
+timbale forms of jellied vegetables, and broken jelly on the dish around
+the meat; or a simpler garnishing can be made with lettuce leaves,
+tomatoes stuffed with mayonnaise, or celery, etc. Use lettuce with any
+of the salads. Have a fancy skewer stuck in the side.
+
+
+=SCALLOPED MEAT=
+
+Spread in a baking dish alternate layers of bread-crumbs, meat chopped
+very fine, a sprinkling of chopped parsley and onion, pepper and salt.
+When the dish is nearly full, pour over enough white sauce to moisten it
+well; cover with crumbs and bits of butter. Set in oven until browned.
+Soup stock or tomatoes may also be used for moistening a scallop. If
+uncooked meat is used, it will require longer cooking (one hour in slow
+oven), and more liquid used, so that it will not get too dry. The coarse
+ends of steak can be utilized in this way. A scallop made of raw meat
+and tomatoes makes a good luncheon dish.
+
+
+=HAMBURG STEAKS=
+
+Chop one pound of lean raw meat very fine, remove all the fiber
+possible. To the mince add
+
+ 1/2 tablespoonful of onion juice.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful salt.
+ 1/4 teaspoonful pepper.
+ Dash of nutmeg.
+ 1 egg.
+
+Form it into small balls, and flatten; dredge them with flour, and saute
+them in butter. Place them on a hot dish, and spread with maitre d'hotel
+butter; or make a thick brown sauce by adding a tablespoonful of flour
+to the butter used in the saute pan. Let it brown; then add slowly a
+little soup stock. Season with salt and pepper, and lemon juice, or
+Worcestershire sauce. Drop a teaspoonful of sauce on each cake without
+spreading it. Garnish with water-cresses. These steaks can be made from
+the end pieces of steaks, or from the round.
+
+When made for invalids, the best meat is used. They are seasoned only
+with salt and pepper, and broiled just enough to be thoroughly heated.
+Another way to serve them is to make them the size of English muffins;
+on the upper side make a depression or hollow, broil or saute them, and
+place them on a baking dish; spread them with maitre d'hotel butter, and
+drop an egg in the hollow top of each one. Put them in the oven just
+long enough to set the white of the egg. Place a dash of pepper on the
+center of the yolk, and serve at once very hot.
+
+
+=BEEF PIE=
+
+Lay in a pie dish a few thin slices of onion; then a layer of cold
+cooked beef cut very thin. Dredge with a little flour, pepper, and salt;
+fill the dish with these articles in alternate layers, and add any cold
+gravy there may be at hand. Scald and peel enough tomatoes to cover the
+top of the dish; have them of uniform size, and place them close
+together. Spread over them some bread crumbs, salt, pepper, and bits of
+butter. Place the dish in the oven, and cook until the tomatoes are
+tender.
+
+Mutton or veal may be used in the same way.
+
+
+=WARMED-OVER BEEF (CHAFING-DISH)=
+
+Cut the beef into small thin slices, and trim off the fat. Put into a
+stew pan one tablespoonful of butter, and one tablespoonful of flour.
+When cooked, and a little browned, add slowly one cupful of stock, one
+teaspoonful each of Worcestershire sauce and mushroom catsup. Season
+with salt and pepper to taste. Add the slices of beef, and let them
+become thoroughly hot. Then place in the center of a hot dish, and
+pour the sauce over them. Garnish with croutons, and serve with it
+farina balls (see page 223). Tomato catsup may be substituted for the
+Worcestershire sauce. When this dish is to be prepared in a
+chafing-dish, the sauce may be made beforehand; the heating and mixing
+only being done over the lamp, and croutons alone served with it. Any
+kind of meat or fish may be used in this way.
+
+
+=INSIDE FLANK=
+
+Take the piece of meat called the inside flank; wipe it clean with a wet
+cloth; carefully remove the skin and fat and lay it flat on a board;
+moisten three quarters of a cupful of crumbs with stock; add one
+teaspoonful of salt, one quarter teaspoonful of pepper, one teaspoonful
+onion juice or one half onion chopped fine, one tablespoonful chopped
+parsley. Spread this mixture on the meat evenly; then roll and tie it
+with white twine; turn in the ends to make it even and shapely.
+
+Cut into dice an onion, turnip, and carrot, and place them in a
+baking-pan; lay the rolled meat on the bed of vegetables; pour in enough
+stock or water to cover the pan one inch deep; add a bouquet made of
+parsley, one bay-leaf and three cloves; cover with another pan, and let
+cook slowly for four or five hours, basting frequently. It can be done
+in a pot just as well, and should be covered as tight as possible; when
+cooked, strain off the vegetables; thicken the gravy with brown roux and
+serve it with the meat. Long, slow cooking is essential to make the meat
+tender. If cooked too fast it will not be good.
+
+A thin steak cut from the round may be cooked the same way, and a little
+ham chopped fine may be added to the stuffing. The cost of this dish is
+not more than eighteen to twenty-five cents, and is enough for four or
+five persons.
+
+
+=RAGOUT OF BEEF=
+
+Cut two pounds of the upper round of beef into inch squares; dredge them
+with salt and pepper, and roll them in flour. Put into a saucepan some
+butter and some drippings, or a little suet, and let it try out, using
+enough only to cover the bottom of the saucepan; when the grease is hot,
+turn in the pieces of meat, and let them cook until well browned on all
+sides. Watch, and turn them as soon as browned; then draw the meat to
+one side of the pan, and add a tablespoonful of flour; let the flour
+brown, and add a cupful of stock or water, and stir until it comes to
+the boiling-point; then add a teaspoonful of salt, a half teaspoonful of
+pepper, one half teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet; one carrot cut into
+blocks, and one tablespoonful of onion; cover the saucepan, and let it
+simmer (not boil) for an hour. Just before serving add two
+tablespoonfuls of sherry or of Madeira. Serve a border of rice around
+the ragout.
+
+
+
+BEEFSTEAK
+
+
+Some one has said, "There is as much difference between
+beefsteaks as between faces; and a man of taste can find as
+much variety in a dinner at the Beefsteak Club as at the
+most plentifully-served table in town."
+
+ [Sidenote: Thickness.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Sauces.]
+
+The difference between a thick and a thin steak is particularly
+marked--the former seems like an altogether different dish
+from the latter. Some may like their steak well done, but it
+is not a taste to be commended. A perfect steak should be cut
+one and a half inches thick, and cooked so that on both sides
+it has a crust one eighth of an inch thick of browned meat,
+the rest being an even red color. It should be puffed and
+elastic from the confined steam of the juices. When the steak
+is over-cooked the steam and the juices have escaped, leaving
+the meat dry and tasteless. The three best sauces which are
+served with steak are first the maitre d'hotel and then the
+Bearnaise and mushroom sauces. Tough beefsteaks can be made
+more tender by pounding them; but a better way is to brush
+them on both sides with a mixture of one tablespoonful of
+vinegar and two tablespoonfuls of oil or melted butter. The
+steak should then stand two or more hours before being cooked.
+It is the fiber of meat which makes it tough, and this fiber
+is soluble in acetic acid, which is found in vinegar. Broiling
+under the coals is better than over them when possible, as all
+smoke is then avoided.
+
+
+
+=TO BROIL A BEEFSTEAK=
+
+Time: one inch thick, eight minutes; one and a half inches thick, ten
+minutes.
+
+Trim a steak into good shape, taking off the end-piece to be used in
+some other form, as it is not eatable when broiled; take off superfluous
+fat; make the surface smooth by striking it with the broad blade of
+knife; heat the broiler very hot. Take a piece of the fat, trimmed off
+the meat, on a fork and grease the broiler well; lay on the steak with
+the outside or skin edge toward the handle, so the fat may run on the
+meat. Place it close to the hot coals and count ten slowly; turn it and
+do the same; this is to sear the outside and keep the juices in; then
+hold it farther from the coals to cook more slowly, and turn it as often
+as you count ten, counting about as fast as the clock ticks. If turned
+in this way very little fat will run into the fire, and it also cooks
+slowly, giving an even color all through. The flame from fat does not
+injure the meat, but the smoke must be avoided. Wrap a napkin around the
+hand holding the broiler to protect it from the heat. A steak ought not
+to be less than an inch, but should be one and a half to one and three
+quarters inches thick. Allow eight to ten minutes for cooking according
+to the thickness. One two inches thick will take fourteen to eighteen
+minutes. A steak should be rare but not raw, should have a uniform red
+color, and be full of juice.
+
+When done it will be puffed between the wires of broiler, and will offer
+a little resistance to the touch. If experience does not enable one to
+judge in this way, remove the broiler to a dish on the table, and make a
+small clean cut on one side. Do not at any time pierce the meat with a
+fork. Sprinkle it with salt and pepper, and spread with maitre d'hotel
+butter. If the steak has to stand a few minutes before serving, which
+should be avoided if possible, dredge it at once with salt and pepper,
+but do not spread with the maitre d'hotel butter until just before
+sending it to the table. The heat of the meat must melt the butter, and
+the parsley should look fresh and bright. Steak, as well as all broiled
+articles, should be garnished with slices of lemon and with water-cress.
+
+Fried potato-balls, straws, puffed, or Saratoga potatoes may be served
+on the same dish.
+
+
+=CHATEAUBRIAND=
+
+The Chateaubriand is cut from the center of the fillet; but a good
+substitute is a tenderloin steak cut two inches thick, the bone removed,
+and the meat then turned so as to make a circle. Flatten it by striking
+with broad blade of knife or a cleaver. Broil slowly as directed above
+for eighteen minutes. Serve with maitre d'hotel butter, mushroom, or
+olive sauce, placing the mushrooms or olives on top of the steak, the
+sauce under it. (See illustration facing page 152.)
+
+The Chateaubriand may also be roasted or braised.
+
+[Illustration: A BONED TENDERLOIN STEAK MADE TO IMITATE A CHATEAUBRIAND
+GARNISHED WITH WATER-CRESS AND LEMON. (SEE PAGE 157.)]
+
+
+=MIGNON FILLETS=
+
+Cut slices from the end of the fillet of beef about five eighths of an
+inch thick. Press and trim them into circles; dredge with salt and
+pepper; saute them in butter; spread Bearnaise sauce on a hot dish, and
+lay the mignon fillets on it, or lay the fillets on croutons of the same
+size as the fillet, and place on top of each one a small spoonful of
+peas, string-beans, or macedoine of vegetables.
+
+
+=CORNED BEEF=
+
+Put corned beef into cold water; using enough to cover it well; let it
+come slowly to the boiling-point; then place where it will simmer only;
+allow thirty minutes or more to each pound. It is improved by adding a
+few soup vegetables the last hour of cooking. A piece from the round is
+the best cut, and should have a layer of fat. If cooked very slowly as
+directed, it will be tender and juicy.
+
+If the piece can be used a second time, trim it to good shape; place it
+again in the water in which it was boiled; let it get heated through;
+then set aside to cool in the water and under pressure, a plate or deep
+dish holding a flat-iron being set on top of the meat. The water need
+not rise above the meat sufficiently to wet the iron. When cooled under
+pressure the meat is more firm and cuts better into slices.
+
+Cabbage is usually served with hot corned beef, but should not be boiled
+with it. The receipt given on page 212 is recommended, and if that
+method is followed, there will be no odor from the cooking, and the
+objection to this very good dish will be removed.
+
+
+=CORNED BEEF HASH=
+
+Chop cooked corned beef, using some of the fat. Do not make it too fine;
+chop some cold boiled potatoes (not fine); mix the two together in equal
+proportions; season with salt, pepper, and onion juice, if liked.
+
+Put a tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan with as much milk, stock,
+or hot water as will be required to moisten the hash; add the chopped
+meat and potatoes; mix them together with care to not mash the potatoes;
+cover and cook slowly for half an hour, or until a crust has formed on
+the bottom of the pan; then turn it on to a hot dish, like an omelet.
+Hash should not be like mush, but the meat and potato quite distinct,
+and as both ingredients have been already cooked they need only to be
+well heated and incorporated with the seasoning.
+
+
+=HASH=
+
+Unless for brown hash, or corned beef hash, potato is not used. Chop the
+meat to a fine mince. Put a tablespoonful of butter into a frying-pan
+with one slice of onion; remove the onion when cooked, and add one
+tablespoonful of flour, and let it brown, thus making a brown roux, if
+the hash is to be made of beef or mutton. Do not let it brown if it is
+to be used for veal or chicken hash. To the brown roux add slowly a
+cupful of stock or hot water; then a cupful and a half of minced meat;
+season with salt and pepper; stir until well incorporated, and serve at
+once on toast. To a white roux add slowly a cupful of milk; then add one
+and a half cupfuls of veal or chicken chopped fine; season with salt and
+pepper. Cut toast into large circles with a biscuit-cutter. Spread them
+with a thick layer of mince, and on this place a poached egg, neatly
+trimmed to the same size as the toast. It can be cut with the same
+cutter, or it may be poached in a muffin-ring (see page 263).
+
+Put a dash of pepper on the center of yolk. Garnish with parsley. This
+makes a very presentable breakfast or luncheon dish.
+
+
+=BROWN HASH=
+
+Cut lean meat into small dice; cut also cold boiled potatoes into dice
+of the same size; mix them together, and place in a small baking-pan;
+dredge with salt and pepper, and dot plentifully with bits of butter.
+Put into hot oven to brown; stir them often so all sides will brown
+alike, and do not let them become too dry.
+
+
+=MARROW-BONES=
+
+Have the bones cut into pieces two or three inches long; scrape and wash
+them very clean; spread a little thick dough on each end to keep the
+marrow in; then tie each bone in a piece of cloth and boil them for one
+hour. Remove the cloth and paste, and place each bone on a square of
+toast; sprinkle with red pepper and serve very hot. Or the marrow-bone
+can be boiled without being cut, the marrow then removed with a spoon
+and placed on squares of hot toast. Serve for luncheon. (See
+illustration facing page 152.)
+
+[Illustration: MARROW-BONES SERVED ON ROUND SLICES OF TOAST. (SEE PAGE
+159.)]
+
+
+
+MUTTON
+
+
+ [Sidenote: The cuts and cooking of Mutton.]
+
+Mutton should be hung for some days before being used. The leg
+may be either boiled or roasted; the saddle always roasted;
+the shoulder boned, stuffed and roasted; the chops broiled,
+and the neck stewed. Except where it is stewed, mutton should
+be cooked rare. Mrs. Brugiere recommends pounding the leg of
+mutton before cooking it. The roasted leg or the saddle are
+the only forms of mutton permissible to serve at a ceremonious
+dinner. The strong taste of mutton is in the fat. Therefore
+trim off a part of the fat from the outside, and when baking
+it in the oven set the joint on a rack in the pan, so it will
+not cook in the fat.
+
+ [Sidenote: Vegetables to serve with Mutton.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Anecdote of Charles Lamb.]
+
+Certain vegetables have by experience been found to go well
+with certain meats. Of these turnips have been established
+as the accompaniment of mutton. This has been amusingly
+emphasized by an anecdote told of Charles Lamb. On an occasion
+when riding in a stage coach, he was much annoyed by a Scotch
+farmer, who was a fellow passenger, asking him questions about
+the crops. "And pray, sir," asked the farmer, "how are turnips
+t' year?" "Why," stammered Lamb, "that will depend upon the
+boiled legs of mutton."
+
+Turnips and carrots cut into dice, boiled separately, then
+mixed and covered with white sauce, also make a good vegetable
+dish for boiled mutton. Caper sauce is always served with it.
+
+Another anecdote is given as a suggestion for an expedient
+in case the mutton is too underdone (boiled mutton should be
+red, but not black). An English nobleman, on being shown a
+Dutch picture representing a man in a passion with his wife
+because the mutton was underdone, exclaimed, "What a fool
+the fellow is not to see that he may have a capital broil."
+
+With roasted mutton may be served baked turnips stuffed with
+seasoned bread-crumbs soaked in cream. It is a Russian dish.
+Bananas cut in two, rolled in egg and crumbs, and fried like
+croquettes, are also recommended for roast mutton. Mint
+sauce and green peas are usually served with spring lamb.
+
+
+=ROAST LEG OF MUTTON=
+
+Time ten minutes per pound (rare); fifteen minutes per pound (moderately
+well done).
+
+Cut the bone short, place in a hot oven for twenty minutes; then add one
+cupful of hot water; baste frequently. Allow ten minutes to the pound
+for cooking rare. When ready to serve conceal the bone with a frill of
+paper, or a few leaves of parsley.
+
+
+=ROAST LOIN OF MUTTON=
+
+Have the joints cracked entirely through, so there may be no trouble in
+carving. Remove the fat and kidney. Allow nine minutes to the pound;
+roast the same as the leg.
+
+
+=ROAST SADDLE OF MUTTON=
+
+The saddle is the back of the animal. If split it would be called the
+loin, and when cut gives the chops. It does not furnish very much meat
+for a roast, so requires to be a large cut. It is esteemed for its
+handsome appearance, as well as for its flavor. Remove the skin from the
+top, also the fat and kidneys from the under side. The suet on the top
+can be lightly cut in points, and a little raised to make decoration.
+Roll the flaps under, and tie into a well rounded shape. If a large
+saddle is used, the tail is left on. It should be cooked in a hot oven,
+basted frequently, and cooked rare, allowing nine minutes to the pound.
+In carving cut slices the length of the saddle, and parallel to the back
+bone; then slip the knife under, and separate them from the rib bones.
+After the top is carved, the saddle is turned, and the tenderloin, which
+lies on the under side, is cut in the same way.
+
+Serve currant jelly with the saddle of mutton.
+
+
+=ROLLED LOIN (CROWN ROAST)=
+
+Have the butcher cut a full loin, split the bone between the chops, trim
+the rib bones as for French chops, and chop them off to a uniform
+length; then roll the loin backward into a circle, and tie securely.
+Have a thick slice of larding pork wrapped around each bone, so it will
+not burn while cooking. Baste frequently while roasting, and allow nine
+minutes to the pound. Serve with Saratoga or other fancy fried potatoes
+in the basket-like top formed by the bones. Place a frill of paper on
+each bone.
+
+[Illustration: CROWN ROAST. A RACK OF MUTTON, THE CENTER FILLED WITH
+SARATOGA POTATOES. (SEE PAGE 162.)]
+
+[Illustration: CROWN ROAST PREPARED FOR COOKING.]
+
+
+=SHOULDER OF MUTTON STUFFED=
+
+Have the butcher carefully remove the blade from the shoulder, and fill
+the space with a mixture made of
+
+ 1 cupful of bread-crumbs.
+ 2 tablespoonfuls of butter.
+ 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley.
+ 1 dozen oysters.
+ Juice of 1 lemon.
+ 1 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1/4 teaspoonful of pepper.
+ 1 egg.
+
+Sew up the opening, roast in the oven with a little water in the pan;
+allow fifteen minutes to the pound, and baste frequently. Serve with the
+gravy from the pan, after the grease is carefully poured off. More
+oysters may be used, or they may be omitted altogether. A stuffing may
+be made of chopped meat, celery, onion, mushrooms, crumbs, egg, and
+seasoning of salt and pepper.
+
+A stuffed shoulder can be pressed into a shape to resemble a fowl or a
+duck, and garnished so as to make an ornamental dish.
+
+[Illustration: BONED AND STUFFED SHOULDER OF MUTTON. (SEE PAGE 163.)]
+
+
+=BOILED MUTTON=
+
+Time fifteen minutes to the pound.
+
+Put the mutton in just enough boiling water to cover it, and put on the
+lid of the pot. After fifteen minutes draw it aside, and let it simmer
+for the required time. Thirty minutes before removing the meat add some
+soup vegetables. They will give flavor to the meat, and enrich the
+water, which may be used for soup the next day. Cut the carrot and
+turnip in half inch thick slices, and stamp with a fluted cutter, so the
+rims will be scalloped. Place the meat on a hot dish, and rub lightly
+over it enough of the white sauce (to be used for the caper sauce) to
+make the surface white and smooth. Sprinkle with chopped parsley or
+capers. Take the sliced vegetables, cut a hole in the center, and string
+them alternately on the bone, which will protrude at each end. This will
+give the effect of skewers, conceal the bone, and make the dish more
+presentable.
+
+Serve with caper sauce.
+
+
+=CAPER SAUCE=
+
+Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a saucepan; when melted, add a
+tablespoonful of flour; cook for a few minutes, but not brown; then add
+one cupful of water in which the mutton was boiled; season with salt and
+pepper, strain, and add one heaping tablespoonful of capers.
+
+
+=RAGOUT OF MUTTON OR LAMB=
+
+One and one half pounds of the neck of mutton or lamb cut into pieces
+one inch square.
+
+ 1 tablespoonful of butter.
+ 1 tablespoonful of flour.
+ 1 onion.
+ 1 carrot.
+ 1/2 can of peas.
+ 1-1/2 cupfuls of water or stock.
+ 1 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1/4 teaspoonful of pepper.
+ Sprig of parsley.
+ 1 bay-leaf.
+ 1 clove.
+
+Put the butter into a frying-pan; when melted add the flour, and let
+brown. Then add the carrot and onion cut into dice, and the mutton.
+Cook, stirring frequently, until all are browned, using care that they
+do not burn; it will take about twenty minutes. Then add the stock or
+water, and the seasoning, having the herbs in a bouquet, so they can be
+removed. Cover closely, and let simmer for two hours. Add the peas ten
+minutes before removing from the fire.
+
+
+=RAGOUT OF COLD BOILED MUTTON=
+
+ 2 cupfuls of cold boiled mutton cut in inch squares.
+ 1 onion sliced.
+ 1 cupful of stock or water in which mutton was boiled.
+ 2 tablespoonfuls of butter.
+ 1/2 can of peas.
+ 1 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1/4 teaspoonful of pepper.
+ 1 head of lettuce.
+ Farina balls.
+
+Put all the ingredients, except the lettuce and farina balls, into a
+saucepan together; cover closely, and simmer very slowly for one hour;
+stir occasionally, but with care not to break the meat or peas. When
+ready to serve, taste to see if the seasoning is right, and pour on a
+hot dish. Lay around the edge, and close to the meat, the crisp leaves
+of one head of lettuce, and the farina balls (see page 223). This way of
+utilizing cold mutton will be found very good. The garnishing makes it a
+presentable dish, and is a good accompaniment in place of other
+vegetables.
+
+[Illustration: RAGOUT OF MUTTON GARNISHED WITH FARINA BALLS AND LETTUCE.
+(SEE PAGE 165.)]
+
+
+=IRISH STEW=
+
+Cut the neck of mutton into pieces two and one half or three inches
+square. Put them into a saucepan with one tablespoonful of butter, and
+let them brown; stir frequently so they do not burn. When browned add
+enough water to cover them well, and two or three onions cut into
+pieces. Cover closely and let simmer two hours. Then add more water if
+necessary, some parboiled potatoes cut in two, and a few slices of
+carrot, salt, and pepper to taste; cover and let cook one hour more. A
+teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce is an improvement. The gravy must be
+quite thick, so too much water must not be used. The potatoes should be
+very soft, but not broken.
+
+
+=MUTTON CHOPS=
+
+Loin chops should be cut one and one fourth inches thick, and the fat
+trimmed off, leaving them round; or the end pieces may be pared off
+thin, wrapped around the chops, and fastened with a skewer, making the
+chop into the form of a circle.
+
+The breast chops are cut a little thinner, the bones scraped and cut
+into even lengths. They are called French chops when the bones are bare.
+Whichever kind of chops are used, they should be all of uniform size and
+shape.
+
+Broil the chops over or under hot coals, turning the broiler as often as
+you count ten slowly, using the same method as in broiling steak. When
+the meat offers a little resistance and is puffy, it is done. If cooked
+too long the chops will be hard and dry. If properly seared at first the
+juices are shut in, and the inflation is caused by the confined steam
+from the juices. It will take eight to ten minutes to broil chops which
+are one inch thick. When done sprinkle over them a little salt and
+pepper and butter. Dress them on a hot dish in a circle, the chops
+overlapping.
+
+Green peas, string-beans, or any small vegetable, or fancy-fried
+potatoes, such as balls, straws, Saratoga, etc., may be served on the
+same dish, and placed in the center of the circle, or around the chops.
+Spinach or mashed potato pressed into form of socle may be used, and the
+chops rested against it, the bones pointing up or slanting. Paper frills
+placed on the ends of the bones improve their appearance.
+
+[Illustration:
+ THREE KINDS OF MUTTON CHOPS.
+
+ 1. English Mutton Chop.
+ 2. French Chop.
+ 3. Boned and Rolled Chop.
+ (See page 165.)]
+
+
+=CHOPS IN PAPER CASES=
+
+Put into a frying-pan some slices of salt pork; when tried out, lay in
+neatly trimmed and seasoned lamb or veal chops; let them saute until
+half cooked; remove the chops, and to the pan add a tablespoonful of
+onion chopped fine; when the onion is cooked add a cupful of stock and a
+cupful of mixture containing minced veal or chicken, a little ham, and
+mushrooms, chopped parsley, and truffles if convenient; salt and pepper
+to taste. Put a spoonful of this sauce on a well-buttered or oiled
+paper, cut in heart-shape; lay the chop on the sauce, and on the chop
+put another spoonful of the sauce. Fold the paper over, and plait the
+edges together so as to completely enclose the chop. Lay the enclosed
+chops on a buttered dish, and place them in the oven for ten minutes;
+serve on the same dish very hot. Chops can also be broiled in
+well-greased paper, and with a little care it is easily done without
+burning the paper. Heavy writing paper should be used; the fire should
+be moderate, and the chops turned frequently. They are served in the
+papers, and are very good, as they hold all the juices of the meat.
+
+
+=CHOPS A LA MAINTENON=
+
+Put one tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan; when hot add one
+tablespoonful of flour; let the flour cook a few minutes; then add four
+tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, one teaspoonful of parsley, one
+half teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of pepper; moisten with three
+tablespoonfuls of stock; mix well together and set aside to cool. Have
+six French chops cut one inch thick. With a sharp knife split the chops
+in two without separating them at the bone; spread the mushroom mixture
+between the opened chops; press the edges well together, and broil for
+eight minutes; serve with an olive sauce.
+
+
+=SPRING LAMB=
+
+Spring lamb is best when two months old. It must be used when fresh, and
+must be thoroughly cooked, but not dried. It is divided into the fore
+and hind quarters, the whole of either not being too much to serve at
+one time; the former are less expensive than the latter, but the meat is
+equally sweet and good. Roast it in a hot oven with a little water in
+the pan; allow fifteen to eighteen minutes to the pound, and baste
+frequently; serve with it mint sauce, and green peas or asparagus tips
+for vegetable.
+
+When using a fore quarter, have the bones well cracked, so that in
+carving it may be cut into squares, or have the shoulder blade removed.
+A very good dressing may be made on the table as follows: cut around the
+shoulder bone; lift and place under it two tablespoonfuls of butter,
+the juice of one lemon, one teaspoonful of salt, one half teaspoonful of
+pepper. Press the pieces together, and let stand a minute to melt the
+butter before carving.
+
+
+
+VEAL
+
+
+The flesh of veal should be pink and firm, the bones hard. If it has a
+blue tinge and is flabby, it has been killed too young, and is
+unwholesome. Like lamb, it must be used while perfectly fresh and be
+thoroughly cooked. It contains less nourishment than other kinds of
+meat; also, having less flavor, it requires more seasoning. Veal is
+frequently used as a substitute for chicken. It can be made into
+croquettes and salads very acceptably.
+
+
+=ROAST FILLET OF VEAL=
+
+The fillet is cut from the upper part of the leg, and should be four to
+six inches thick. Only one good fillet can be cut from the leg. Press
+and tie it into good round shape. Lay a few slices of larding pork over
+the top. Place it in very hot oven for fifteen minutes; then lower the
+heat; baste frequently with water from the pan; allow eighteen to twenty
+minutes to the pound. It must be thoroughly cooked, but not dried.
+Remove the slices of pork from top a half hour before it is done, so it
+may brown. The bone may be removed from the fillet before cooking, and
+the space filled with stuffing made of crumbs, sweet herbs, pepper and
+salt, and a little chopped salt pork. Thicken the gravy in pan to serve
+with the fillet.
+
+
+=STUFFED SHOULDER OF VEAL=
+
+Twenty to twenty-five minutes per pound.
+
+Have the blade removed, and fill the space with a stuffing made of bread
+crumbs, thyme, marjoram, lemon juice, chopped salt pork, salt and
+pepper, and an egg; also chopped mushrooms, if desired. Sew up the
+opening, press and tie it into good shape, and roast the same as the
+fillet. The stuffing may also be made of minced veal cut from the
+knuckle, highly seasoned.
+
+
+=FRICANDEAU OF VEAL=
+
+The fricandeau is the most choice cut of veal. It is taken from the
+upper round of the leg, and is one side of the fillet. As it destroys
+that cut, it commands the highest price. It should be cut four inches
+thick, and is usually larded and braised. Place it in a baking-pan on a
+layer of sliced salt pork, and chopped carrot, onion, and turnip. Add a
+bouquet of herbs, a cupful of stock, and enough water to fill the pan
+one and a half inches deep. Cover closely, and let cook in moderate
+oven, allowing twenty minutes to the pound; baste frequently. Remove the
+cover for the last half hour, so the meat may brown. Strain the gravy
+from the pan to serve with it.
+
+
+=VEAL CUTLETS=
+
+Leave the cutlet whole or cut it into pieces of uniform size and shape;
+dredge with salt and pepper; dip in egg and cover with bread crumbs or
+with flour; saute cutlets in drippings, or in a frying-pan after slices
+of salt pork have been tried out. Cook until well browned on both sides;
+then place them on a hot dish and moisten the top with a little lemon
+juice; or, omitting the lemon juice, serve with them a tomato or a
+Bearnaise sauce, or make a gravy by adding a little flour to the grease
+in the pan, and diluting to right consistency, after the flour is
+browned, with stock or water. If the gravy is used, put it in the bottom
+of the dish and place the cutlets on it.
+
+
+=A PLAIN POT-PIE=
+
+Cut veal, chicken, or beef into pieces; put them with strips of pork
+into boiling water and cook until tender; season with salt, pepper, and
+butter. There should be enough liquid to make a generous amount of
+gravy. When the stew is ready cook the dumplings, and place them on the
+same dish around the stew. If suet dumplings are used, they must be
+placed in the pot as soon as it boils in order to cook them a sufficient
+length of time. It is better to cook either kind of dumplings in a
+separate pot with plenty of water, and not remove them until the stew is
+dished and ready to be sent to the table.
+
+
+=DUMPLINGS WITH BAKING POWDER=
+
+ 2 cupfuls of flour.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder.
+ 1 cupful of milk.
+
+Mix the flour, salt, and baking powder well together, then stir in
+quickly the milk. Have the dough quite soft. Drop the batter from a
+spoon into the stew, or into boiling water; or, if preferred, make the
+dough just consistent enough to roll, and cut it into squares. The stew
+must not be allowed to stop simmering after the dumplings are in; and
+they must be served immediately after being taken from the pot, or they
+will fall. It will take ten minutes to cook them.
+
+
+=DUMPLINGS WITH SUET=
+
+ 1 cupful of chopped suet.
+ 2 scant cupfuls of flour.
+ 1 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1/2 cupful of cold water.
+
+Mix together lightly the flour, suet and salt; then with a knife stir in
+quickly the water. The dough must be soft, but not sticky. Put it on a
+board, and roll it lightly to one inch thickness, and place it on the
+boiling stew in one cake. The stew must not stop boiling for a moment,
+or the dumpling will fall. Cook for one hour. The dough may be rolled
+into balls if preferred. When the dumpling is put in, draw the pot
+forward where it will heat quickly, and not arrest the boiling. When it
+is thoroughly hot, place it where it will simmer continually during the
+hour of cooking. If this rule is observed, it will be light and spongy.
+Where cooked meat is used, which does not require such long cooking, the
+dumplings may be boiled in water.
+
+This mixture can be used for fruit and for roly-poly puddings (see page
+443).
+
+
+=JELLIED VEAL=
+
+Wipe a knuckle of veal clean with a wet cloth; have it well broken. Put
+it in a saucepan with two quarts of water, or enough to cover it. Tie in
+a piece of cheese-cloth one tablespoonful each of chopped onion, carrot,
+and turnip, a little parsley and celery, three cloves, and a blade of
+mace. Put it in the pot. Boil slowly until the veal falls from the bone;
+then strain it, and put the liquor again in the saucepan; season it with
+salt, pepper, and a little lemon juice. Reduce it to one quart by
+boiling with the cover off the saucepan. Cut two hard-boiled eggs into
+thin slices, and with them ornament the bottom of a plain mold; a brick
+ice-cream mold, or a small tin basin will do. Put a very little of the
+liquor in to fix the ornament, but not enough to float the egg slices.
+When set add a little more of the liquor, enough to make a layer of
+jelly one quarter of an inch thick. When that is set fill the mold with
+the veal, and place slices of boiled egg between the layers of meat.
+Around the sides of the mold lay in slices of egg. Then pour in as much
+of the liquor as it will hold, and set away to harden. This makes a good
+cold dish to use with salad.
+
+[Illustration: JELLIED VEAL DECORATED WITH SLICES OF HARD-BOILED EGG.
+GARNISHED WITH LETTUCE.]
+
+
+=VEAL LOAF=
+
+ 3 pounds of veal.
+ 1/2 pound of ham, or
+ 1/4 pound of salt pork.
+ 2 eggs.
+ 1 cupful of fine bread or cracker crumbs.
+ 1 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of pepper.
+ 1 teaspoonful of onion juice.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of ground mace.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of allspice.
+
+Chop the veal and ham very fine, mix into it the other ingredients, and
+mold it into a loaf; or press it into a mold or tin to form a loaf; then
+turn it on a baking dish. Baste it with beaten egg, and sprinkle it with
+bread crumbs. Cook in moderate oven for two hours, basting it several
+times with melted butter and water. This dish is to be served cold.
+
+
+=VEAL SCALLOP=
+
+Chop veal to a fine mince. Put into a baking-dish alternate layers of
+veal and bread crumbs, sprinkling the meat with salt and pepper, the
+crumbs with bits of butter. Over the top pour a white sauce made of one
+tablespoonful each of butter and flour, and one cupful of milk. Spread
+over it a layer of crumbs, and put in the oven to brown.
+
+Rice may be used instead of the crumbs, and tomatoes instead of the
+white sauce.
+
+
+=LIVER AND BACON=
+
+Cut the liver into slices one half inch thick; lay them in boiling water
+for a few minutes, then dry and cover them with flour and a little
+pepper and salt. Lay in a hot frying-pan very thin slices of bacon. When
+tried out enough for the bacon to be crisp, remove it and put the slices
+of liver in the same frying pan. Cook until thoroughly done, but not
+dried. Remove the liver, and to the fat in the pan add a spoonful of
+flour; when the flour is brown, add enough water slowly to make a thick
+sauce. Pour the sauce over the liver, and place the bacon around it.
+Liver is generally cut thin, but it will be found much better when cut a
+half inch or more thick. The bacon should be cut thin, and cooked
+quickly; the liver cut thick, and cooked slowly.
+
+
+=BROILED LIVER=
+
+Slice the liver. Let it soak in hot water a few minutes to draw out the
+blood. Dry it, rub it with butter, and broil five to eight minutes,
+turning it constantly. It should not be cooked until dry. When done,
+spread it with butter, and serve at once.
+
+
+=BRAISED LIVER=
+
+Use a calf's or lamb's liver.
+
+Lard it in two or three rows. Cut into dice one carrot, one turnip, one
+onion, a stalk of celery, and the bits left from the lardoons of salt
+pork; put them in a baking pan, and on this bed of vegetables place the
+larded liver. Add two cupfuls of stock or hot water, and a bouquet of
+one sprig of parsley, one bay-leaf, and two cloves. Cover with another
+pan, and cook in moderate oven for two hours; baste occasionally. Serve
+with the vegetables from the pan, on the same dish, placed around the
+liver. Pour over the liver a sauce made as follows: Put in a saucepan
+one tablespoonful of butter; when melted, add one tablespoonful of
+flour, and stir until browned; then add slowly the strained liquor from
+the pan. If there is not enough to make one cupful, add water to make
+that quantity. Season with salt and pepper, and add, if convenient, one
+tablespoonful each of Worcestershire sauce and mushroom catsup.
+
+
+=STEWED KIDNEYS=
+
+Beef, calf or lamb kidneys may be used. Be sure they are very fresh.
+Remove the fat and white center, then soak them for one hour in salted
+water. Cut them in slices one half inch thick, cover the slices with
+flour, and saute them for five minutes in one tablespoonful of butter.
+Add to the frying-pan one thin slice of onion and one half cupful of
+water, and simmer for ten minutes, not longer. The kidneys will be tough
+and hard if cooked too long. Just before serving, add one quarter cupful
+of sherry; salt and pepper to taste. One tablespoon of Worcestershire
+sauce may be used instead of the sherry.
+
+
+=TRIPE=
+
+Soak the tripe for several hours, then scrape it thoroughly clean, put
+it in salted water, and simmer it for three or four hours, until it is
+like jelly. Drain off the water, and put the tripe aside until ready to
+use. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan; when hot add a
+tablespoonful of flour, and cook for a few minutes, but do not brown.
+Then add slowly one cupful of milk, and stir until smooth. Add a half
+teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper, and a half teaspoonful of onion
+juice; then add one cupful of the boiled tripe. Stir until the tripe is
+heated, and serve immediately.
+
+
+=CALF'S HEART=
+
+Wash the heart, but do not let it soak, or stand in water. Fill it with
+a stuffing made of minced meat or of bread, either one of them seasoned
+with onion, sage, thyme, marjoram, pepper and salt, and an egg to bind
+it. Bake it for two hours, basting it frequently with water from the
+pan. When the heart is cooked remove it, and add to the pan a
+tablespoonful of flour; stir until it has browned. Then, if there is not
+enough liquor in the pan, add to it just enough water to make a thick
+sauce. Strain this over the heart, and serve on the same dish some
+boiled and browned onions.
+
+
+=BEEF'S TONGUE=
+
+If a smoked tongue is used, soak it over night. Put it in cold water,
+and let it come to the boiling point. Then simmer for four hours, or
+until tender.
+
+Boil a fresh tongue in salted water one and a half hours. A few soup
+vegetables may be added to the water if convenient. Before putting it in
+the water, trim it carefully, and skewer it into good shape. When it is
+boiled remove the skin. If it is to be used cold, replace the skewer,
+put it again in the water in which it was boiled, and let it remain
+there until cold; then cover it with a meat glaze colored red. If served
+hot, pour over it a white sauce, and garnish with parsley and sliced
+pickle; or serve with it a piquante sauce. Spinach is a good vegetable
+to serve with tongue.
+
+
+=HOT SLICED TONGUE=
+
+Make a piquante sauce (see page 283). Lay slices of boiled tongue cut
+one half inch thick into it, and let them remain until well heated.
+Arrange the hot slices in a circle, the slices overlapping, and pour the
+sauce in the center. Garnish with capers, slices of hard-boiled eggs,
+and gherkins; or make a form of spinach by pressing into a bowl
+well-chopped and seasoned spinach. Turn it on the center of a dish, and
+lay the slices around or against it. Serve with piquante or with pickle
+sauce.
+
+
+=COLD TONGUE=
+
+Lay thick slices of tongue in a circle, the pieces overlapping. Place in
+the center a bunch of nasturtium blossoms and lettuce leaves. Serve with
+Tartare or cold Bearnaise sauce.
+
+
+=JELLIED TONGUE=
+
+Cut tongue into slices. Lay them together to look like a solid piece,
+and place them in a square or brick-shaped mold. Sprinkle a few capers
+in the bottom of the mold before putting in the tongue. Have the mold
+only large enough for the tongue to fit in easily, but be held in place.
+Fill with aspic jelly (see page 321).
+
+
+=BOILED CALF'S HEAD=
+
+Have the head split open, and the gristle about the nose and eyes, and
+the eyes and ears, removed by the butcher. Wash thoroughly the head;
+remove the tongue and brains; parboil the brains, and set them aside
+with the tongue to use on another occasion (see page 307). Blanch the
+head by putting it into cold water; when it comes to the boiling point,
+pour off the hot water, and cover it with cold water. When cold, rub it
+with lemon. Put it into boiling water, enough to cover it; add two
+tablespoonfuls of vinegar or white wine, twelve peppercorns, one
+bay-leaf, one onion, one carrot, and a sprig of parsley. Cover the pot,
+and let boil for two hours, or until tender, but not ready to fall
+apart. When done, take out the bones carefully, and lay the meat on a
+baking dish in compact shape. Rub over the top with egg, sprinkle it
+with bread crumbs and bits of butter, and set in the oven to brown.
+Serve with it a Poulette or an Allemande sauce.
+
+Put any of the meat left over after being served in this manner into a
+mold; fill it up with water in which the head was boiled; season to
+taste. This will make a jellied meat very good to use with salad.
+
+The water from the pot will make a good soup. (See mock turtle soup.)
+Four separate dishes can be made from one head, viz.: boiled calf's
+head, cold jellied calf's head, mock turtle soup, tongue and brains,
+with white, Poulette, or Vinaigrette sauce.
+
+
+=CALF'S HEAD WITH VINAIGRETTE SAUCE=
+
+After the calf's head is boiled as directed above, take it from the
+water, remove the meat, and press it into a square mold or tin, and let
+it get entirely cold. It can then be cut into uniform pieces. When ready
+to serve, heat some of the liquor in which the head was boiled, cut some
+long slices from the form of cold calf's head, lay them in the hot
+liquor to become hot only. Remove them carefully, and place them on a
+hot dish. Pour over them a Vinaigrette sauce. (For sauce, see page 307.)
+
+
+
+PORK
+
+
+Salt pork and bacon should be kept always at hand; the former for
+larding, spreading in thin slices over baked meats, poultry, and birds,
+and various other uses as directed in many receipts. Bacon is an
+appetizing accompaniment to many breakfast dishes. Fresh pork is used
+only in cold weather, and must be thoroughly cooked.
+
+
+=ROAST PORK=
+
+The roasting pieces are the leg, loin, spare-rib, and shoulder. If the
+skin is left on cut it through in lines both ways, forming small
+squares. Put a cupful of water in the pan with the meat; bake in a
+moderate oven, allowing twenty to twenty-five minutes to the pound. Pork
+must be thoroughly cooked. Serve with apple sauce or fried apples.
+
+
+=FRIED APPLES=
+
+Cut slices one half inch thick across the apple, giving circles. Do not
+remove the skin or core.
+
+Or cut the apples in quarters, leaving on the skin and removing the
+core. Saute the apples in butter or drippings until tender, but not soft
+enough to lose form.
+
+Serve the fried apples on the same dish with pork as garnishing.
+
+
+=PORK CHOPS=
+
+Cut pork chops not more than one half inch thick. Trim off most of the
+fat, dredge them with flour, and saute them until thoroughly cooked, and
+well browned. It will take about twenty-five minutes. Serve with fried
+apples.
+
+
+=BOILED HAM=
+
+Soak the ham over night, or for several hours. Thoroughly wash and
+scrape it. Put it into cold water; let it come to the boiling point;
+then simmer, allowing twenty minutes to the pound. Pierce the ham with a
+fine skewer. If done the skewer can be withdrawn easily without
+sticking. Let the ham partly cool in the water; then remove and draw off
+the skin. Sprinkle the top plentifully with cracker crumbs and brown
+sugar, or brush it with egg. Press into it a number of whole cloves, and
+set it in the oven a few minutes to brown. Or the ham may be left white,
+and dotted with pepper, a clove stuck in the center of each spot of
+pepper. Soup vegetables and a bouquet of herbs boiled with a ham improve
+its flavor. A ham boiled in cider is especially good. Trim the meat
+around the bone, and conceal the bone with a paper frill or vegetable
+cut into shape of rose. Ornament the ham with dressed skewers, or with
+parsley and lemon.
+
+[Illustration: COLD HAM COVERED WITH CHAUDFROID SAUCE AND DECORATED WITH
+TRUFFLES TO IMITATE BRANCHES--ORNAMENT ON TOP A HALF-OLIVE SURROUNDED
+WITH SLICES OF PICKLE--A PIECE OF THE HAM-SKIN LEFT ON THE BONE END AND
+THE EDGE OF THE SKIN DECORATED WITH TRIANGULAR AND DIAMOND-SHAPED PIECES
+OF TRUFFLE--PAPER FRILL ON HAM-BONE--DISH GARNISHED WITH LETTUCE,
+WATER-CRESS, OR PARSLEY.]
+
+
+=BAKED HAM=
+
+Soak and prepare the ham as directed above. Let it simmer for two hours;
+then remove it and take off the skin, and bake it in a moderate oven for
+two hours; baste it frequently, using a cupful of sherry, two spoonfuls
+at a time, until all is used; then baste with drippings from the pan.
+When done, cover it with a paste made of browned flour and brown sugar
+moistened with sherry, and replace in the oven for a few minutes to
+brown.
+
+
+=BROILED HAM AND EGGS=
+
+Cut the ham very thin. If very salt, place it in boiling water for a few
+minutes. Then dry and broil it over hot coals for three or four minutes.
+
+Put a few pieces of salt pork into a frying pan. When tried out, add the
+eggs, one at a time, from a saucer. Baste the top of the eggs with fat
+from the pan. Let them brown a little on the edges, but not blacken, and
+serve them around the slices of ham.
+
+Boiled ham may be broiled. If so, cut it into thin, small pieces, and
+after broiling it, place on each piece a fried egg.
+
+
+=HAM AND EGGS A L'AURORE=
+
+Chop fine some cold boiled ham. Boil six or eight eggs very hard (see
+page 262). With a sharp knife cut them in quarters lengthwise. Remove
+the yolks, and press them through a coarse sieve or strainer; lay the
+white segments in warm water. Make a white sauce, using two
+tablespoonfuls of butter; when melted, add two tablespoonfuls of flour,
+and let cook for a few minutes; then add slowly two cupfuls of milk.
+Stir constantly, and when a smooth, consistent sauce, season with salt
+and white pepper.
+
+Moisten the chopped ham with a little of the sauce, and place it on the
+fire just long enough to become well heated. Stir constantly so the
+sauce will not brown. Make a smooth, rounded mold of the ham in the
+center of a hot dish. Pour over it the white sauce. Sprinkle thickly
+over the top the yolk crumbs; then range evenly around it the white
+segments of the eggs.
+
+
+=BACON=
+
+Cut bacon very thin, as shown on page 78. Lay the slices on a hot
+frying-pan. When clear turn them over. Tip the pan a little, so the fat
+will run to one side. If not wanted crisp and dry, turn the slices
+before they look clear, and remove before all the fat is tried out.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+POULTRY AND GAME
+
+
+CHICKENS
+
+To judge the age of a chicken, touch the end of the
+breastbone. If it is still cartilaginous, and bends easily
+from side to side, the meat of the chicken will be tender.
+If the cartilage has hardened to bone, the bird is over a
+year old, and should be used only for the purposes which
+fowls serve. The skin of the chicken should be firm, smooth
+and white; the feet soft, the legs smooth and yellow, the
+spurs small, the eyes bright and full, the comb red. On
+young chickens there are pin-feathers; on fowls, there are
+long hairs. The dry-picked chickens are preferable to those
+which are scalded. It is not easy to find all the conditions
+right in our markets, which are mostly supplied with frozen
+poultry, and one is obliged to rely very much on the honesty
+of the poulterer. Chicken, to be perfectly wholesome and
+good-flavored, should be drawn as soon as killed; but here
+again we are subject to the customs of our markets, and are
+obliged to buy poultry which has not only been killed, but
+undrawn, for an indefinite time. It is presumable, however,
+that poultry sent to market is frozen shortly after being
+killed, and it does not deteriorate while frozen. It should
+be drawn at once after it comes to the kitchen, without
+waiting for the time to prepare it for cooking.
+
+
+TO CLEAN AND DRAW POULTRY
+
+ [Sidenote: Washing.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Drawing the Sinews.]
+
+First, remove any pin-feathers; then singe off the hairs.
+This is done best over an alcohol flame. Put one or two
+tablespoonfuls of alcohol into a plate or saucer and ignite
+it. (Wood alcohol is inexpensive, and besides serving this
+purpose very well may be used also in the chafing-dish and
+tea-kettle lamps.) If alcohol is not at hand, use lighted
+paper, but take care not to smoke the chicken. Hold the fowl
+by the head and feet, and turn it constantly, exposing every
+part to the flame. After singeing, wash the outside of the
+chicken thoroughly with a cloth and bowl of water. The skin
+will become several degrees whiter when freed from dust and
+the marks of much handling. Do not place the chicken in the
+bowl of water, or at any time allow the meat to soak, as that
+will extract its flavor. After the chicken is drawn, it should
+only be wiped out with a wet cloth. If it is properly drawn
+there will be nothing unclean to wash away from the inside.
+After the skin of the chicken is cleaned, cut off the head,
+cut the skin down the back of the neck, turn it over while you
+remove carefully the crop and windpipe, and cut off the neck
+close to the body, leaving the skin to fold over the opening.
+Next take the leg, bend it back slightly, and carefully cut
+the skin on the joint, just enough to expose the sinews
+without cutting them; run a skewer or fork under them, one at
+a time, and draw them out; five or eight of them can be easily
+removed after a little practice. The one on the back of the
+leg is particularly large and strong. These sinews are very
+tough and almost bony after cooking, especially in turkeys,
+but if they are removed the meat of the drumstick is quite as
+good as that of the second joint. After the sinews are drawn,
+break the leg off at the joint, the sinews hanging to it. Cut
+a small opening under the rump; run a finger around close to
+the body to loosen the entrails. Do the same at the neck
+opening. Carefully draw them out, in one solid mass, without
+any part being broken; cut around the vent to free the large
+intestine. If by any mischance the gall or intestines should
+be broken, the inside of the chicken must be washed at once;
+otherwise only wipe it out with a wet cloth, as directed
+above. Cut the oil sack away from the rump. Cut the gall
+carefully off the liver; cut the outer coat of the gizzard and
+draw it carefully away from the inner sack, leaving the sack
+unbroken. Open the heart and wash away the clot of blood. The
+heart, liver, and gizzard are the giblets. All poultry and
+birds are dressed in the same way.
+
+[Illustration: LEG OF CHICKEN WITH SINEWS DRAWN. (SEE PAGE 180.)]
+
+
+TO BONE A FOWL
+
+Wash and singe the fowl; take off the head and legs, and
+remove the tendons as directed for drawing. When a fowl is to
+be boned it is not drawn. The work of boning is not difficult,
+but requires care and a little practice. The skin must not be
+broken. Use a small pointed knife; cut the skin down the full
+length of the back; then, beginning at the neck, carefully
+scrape the meat away from the bone, keeping the knife close to
+the bone. When the joints of the wings and legs are met, break
+them back and proceed to free the meat from the carcass. When
+one side is free, turn the fowl and do the same on the other
+side. The skin is drawn tightly over the breast-bone, and care
+must be used to detach it without piercing the skin. When the
+meat is free from the carcass, remove the bones from the legs
+and wings, turning the meat down or inside out, as the bones
+are exposed, and using care not to break the skin at the
+joints. The end bones of the wings cannot be removed, and the
+whole end joint may be cut off or left as it is.
+
+
+
+=ROASTED BONED CHICKEN=
+
+Spread the boned chicken on a board, the skin side down; turn the flesh
+of the legs and wings right side out, and stuff them with forcemeat into
+shape. Equalize the meat as well as possible, placing the mignon
+fillets, or little strips of white meat next the bone, over the dark
+meat, etc.; dredge with salt and pepper. Make a roll of the stuffing or
+forcemeat, and lay it in the chicken. Draw the skin up, and sew it
+together securely. Turn it over, place the legs and wings into the
+position of a trussed fowl, press the body into natural shape, and tie
+it securely; or it may be pressed into the form of a duck or rabbit.
+Cover with slices of salt pork, and roast in oven, allowing twenty
+minutes to the pound; baste frequently. Remove the pork the last fifteen
+minutes, dredge with flour, and let it brown. Serve with a giblet or
+tomato sauce.
+
+
+=BRAISED BONED CHICKEN=
+
+To braise the chicken prepared as above, roll it lightly in a piece of
+cheese cloth, tying the ends well. Put in a saucepan the bones of the
+chicken, a slice of carrot and onion, a bouquet containing parsley, one
+bay-leaf, three cloves, twelve peppercorns, celery if convenient, and a
+knuckle of veal. Add enough water to cover the bed of vegetables and
+bones; lay in the chicken; cover the pot, and let it simmer for four
+hours.
+
+
+=JELLIED BONED CHICKEN=
+
+A braised boned chicken may be served hot, or it may be set aside to
+cool, then jellied as follows: Strain the water in which the chicken was
+braised, and let it cool; then remove the grease and clarify the liquor;
+season it highly. If veal has been used, and the liquor jellies, it may
+be used as it is. If veal has not been used, add gelatine soaked in cold
+water, observing the proportion of one box of gelatine to one and a half
+quarts of liquor. Mask a mold with jelly (see page 323); when the jelly
+is set, put in the chicken, and add enough liquid jelly to entirely
+cover it. Or, on the bottom of the mold make a decoration of either
+truffles, ham, capers, gherkins, or any combinations suitable; fix it
+with a thin layer of jelly; when hardened, add enough more to make a
+layer of jelly one quarter of an inch thick, and when that is hardened
+lay in the chicken, and surround it with the liquid jelly (see molding
+jellies, page 324). Garnish the dish on which the jellied chicken is
+served with lettuce, and serve with it a Mayonnaise, Bearnaise, or
+Tartare sauce.
+
+When the chicken is to be jellied, use enough water in the braising pot
+to give three pints of liquor after the cooking is done.
+
+
+=FORCEMEAT, FOR STUFFING BONED FOWLS=
+
+Use the meat of another fowl, or veal, or pork, or a mixture. Chop them
+fine, and add to the minced meat one cupful of bread or cracker crumbs
+and, if convenient, a little chopped boiled ham or tongue, and a few
+lardoons of pork. Season with the following articles, and moisten the
+whole with stock:
+
+ 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley.
+ 1 teaspoonful of onion juice.
+ 1/4 teaspoonful of pepper.
+ 1 teaspoonful thyme.
+ 1 teaspoonful of salt.
+
+If veal is used, take it from the knuckle, and use the bone in the
+braising pot, as it will give a good jelly.
+
+
+=TO TRUSS A FOWL=
+
+When the fowl is wiped, singed, and drawn as by directions given above,
+put in the stuffing if it is to be used; place a little in the opening
+at the neck, the rest in the body, and sew up the opening. Draw the skin
+of the neck smoothly down and under the back, press the wings close
+against the body, and fold the pinions under, crossing the back and
+holding down the skin of the neck. Press the legs close to the body, and
+slip them under the skin as much as possible. Thread the trussing
+needle with white twine, using it double. Press the needle through the
+wing by the middle joint, pass it through the skin of the neck and back,
+and out again at the middle joint of the other wing. Return the needle
+through the bend of the leg at the second joint, through the body and
+out at the same point on the other side; draw the cord tight, and tie it
+with the end at the wing joint. Thread the needle again, and run it
+through the legs and body at the thigh bone, and back at the ends of the
+drumsticks. Draw the drumstick bones close together, covering the
+opening made for drawing the fowl, and tie the ends. Have both knots on
+the same side of the fowl. When cooked, cut the cord on the opposite
+side, and by the knots it can easily be drawn out. (See illustration.)
+
+[Illustration: TRUSSED CHICKEN. (SEE PAGE 183.)]
+
+[Illustration: BACK OF TRUSSED CHICKEN.]
+
+
+=ROASTED CHICKEN=
+
+A roasted chicken may be stuffed or not. If stuffing is used it should
+only half fill the chicken. Truss it as directed above, or use skewers,
+doubling a cord across the back and around the ends of the skewers to
+hold them in place. A roasted or boiled chicken is not presentable,
+which has not been securely fastened into good shape before being
+cooked. Dredge the chicken with salt and pepper, and place it on slices
+of salt pork in a baking pan; add a very little water, and bake in hot
+oven, allowing fifteen minutes to the pound; baste frequently. White
+meat must be well cooked, but not dried. Fifteen minutes before it is
+done, rub it over the top and sides with butter, dredge it with flour,
+and replace it in the oven until it becomes a golden brown and looks
+crisp. Draw out the trussing cords, and garnish with parsley. Serve with
+it a giblet sauce. Do not use a tough chicken for roasting; one a year
+old is about right. A roasting chicken may be larded if desired.
+
+
+=STUFFING FOR FOWLS=
+
+Moisten a cupful of bread-crumbs with a tablespoonful of melted butter;
+season highly with salt, pepper, thyme, chopped parsley, and onion
+juice; or put in a saucepan a tablespoonful of butter and fry in it one
+minced onion; then add one cupful of soaked bread, the water being
+pressed out, one half cupful of stock, one teaspoonful of salt, one half
+teaspoonful each of pepper and thyme, and one half cupful of celery cut
+into small pieces. Stir it until it leaves the sides of the pan.
+
+
+=CHESTNUT STUFFING=
+
+Shell a quart of large French chestnuts. Put them in hot water and boil
+until the skins are softened; then drain off the water and remove the
+skins. Replace the blanched chestnuts in water, and boil until soft.
+Take out a few at a time, and press them through a colander or a potato
+press. They mash more easily when hot. Season the mashed chestnuts with
+a tablespoonful of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of a
+teaspoonful of pepper. Some cooks add a tablespoonful of chopped
+parsley, and moisten it with a little stock. Some add, also, a few bread
+crumbs. The dressing is best seasoned only with butter, salt, and
+pepper.
+
+
+=GIBLET SAUCE=
+
+Boil the giblets until tender; chop them, but not very fine; add a
+tablespoonful of flour to the pan in which the chicken was roasted; let
+it brown, stirring constantly; add slowly a cupful of water in which the
+giblets were boiled; season with salt and pepper; strain and add the
+chopped giblets; serve in a sauceboat. The liver is a tidbit, and should
+be roasted and served with the chicken, instead of being used in the
+sauce.
+
+
+=BOILED CHICKEN=
+
+A chicken too old to roast is very good when boiled. Truss the chicken
+firmly. It is well also to tie it in a piece of cheese-cloth, to keep it
+in good shape. It may be stuffed or not. Boiled rice seasoned with
+butter, pepper, and salt, or celery cut in small pieces, is better to
+use for boiled chicken than bread stuffing.
+
+Put the chicken into boiling salted water and simmer, allowing twenty
+minutes to the pound; when done, remove the cloth and cords carefully,
+spread a little white sauce over the breast, and sprinkle it with
+chopped parsley. Garnish with parsley, and serve with it egg, oyster, or
+Bearnaise sauce.
+
+
+=BRAISED CHICKEN=
+
+A fowl too old to roast may be made tender and good by braising, and
+present the same appearance as a roasted chicken.
+
+Prepare it as for roasting, trussing it into good shape. Cut into dice a
+carrot, turnip, onion, and stalk of celery; put them in a pot with a few
+slices of salt pork, and on them place the fowl, with a few pieces of
+salt pork laid over the breast; add a bouquet of parsley, one bay-leaf,
+three cloves, six peppercorns, also a teaspoonful of salt, and a pint of
+hot water. Cover the pot closely and let simmer for three hours. If any
+steam escapes, a little more water may have to be added. When done, rub
+a little butter over the breast, dredge with flour, and place in the
+oven a few minutes to brown. Strain the liquor from the braising pot,
+season to taste, and if necessary thicken with a little brown roux;
+serve it with the chicken as sauce.
+
+
+=BROILED CHICKEN=
+
+Young spring chickens only are used for broiling. Split them down the
+back, remove the entrails and the breast bone, wipe them clean, sprinkle
+with salt and pepper, and rub them with soft butter. Place them on a
+broiler over a slow fire, the inside down; cover with a pan, and let
+cook for twenty to twenty-five minutes. Turn, to let the skin side brown
+when nearly done. Place them on a hot dish, and spread them with maitre
+d'hotel butter; garnish with parsley or watercress and thin slices of
+lemon.
+
+
+=FRICASSEE=
+
+Cut a chicken into eleven pieces: two drumsticks, two second joints, two
+wings, two breasts, three back pieces.
+
+Put the pieces in a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of butter or
+drippings; let them brown slightly on both sides, but use care that they
+do not burn; when a little colored, add enough boiling water to cover
+them; add a bouquet of herbs, salt and pepper, and a few slices of salt
+pork. Simmer until tender. Arrange the pieces neatly on a dish, using
+the best ones outside, and pour over them a gravy made as follows:
+Strain the liquor from the pot and take off the fat. Make a white roux
+of one tablespoonful of butter and two of flour; add to it slowly a
+cupful of the liquor from the pot; season to taste; remove from the
+fire, and when a little cool add a cupful of cream or milk beaten up
+with two or three yolks of eggs. Place again on the fire until the eggs
+are a little thickened, but do not let it boil, or they will curdle. A
+tablespoonful of sherry may be added, if liked, or a half can of
+mushrooms. A border of rice may be placed around the chicken, or
+softened toast used under the chicken.
+
+To make a brown fricassee, sprinkle the pieces of chicken, after they
+are simmered until tender, with salt, pepper, and flour, and place them
+in the oven to brown. Make a brown instead of a white roux, and omit the
+cream or milk.
+
+
+=FRIED CHICKEN=
+
+Cut a tender chicken in pieces; dip the pieces in water; sprinkle them
+with salt and pepper, and roll them in flour; saute them in a
+tablespoonful of lard or butter, browning both sides; then remove and
+add to the pan a tablespoonful of flour; cook it for a minute without
+browning, stirring all the time, and add a cupful of milk or cream; stir
+until it is a little thickened; strain; mix into it a tablespoonful of
+chopped parsley. Place the sauce on the serving-dish and arrange the
+pieces of chicken on it.
+
+
+=CHICKEN FRITTERS=
+
+Cut cold cooked chicken or turkey off the bones in as large pieces as
+possible; sprinkle with salt and pepper; dip them in fritter batter
+(see page 426), and fry in hot fat until a golden brown. Place the
+pieces when fried on a brown paper until all are done; dress them on a
+folded napkin, and serve with a Bearnaise, Mayonnaise, or Tartare sauce.
+
+The pieces may be rolled in egg and bread crumbs instead of being dipped
+in batter, if preferred.
+
+
+=STUFFED CHICKEN OR TURKEY LEGS=
+
+Carefully remove the tendons from the drumsticks as directed in drawing
+(page 180); remove the bone, all but about an inch and a half at the
+small end, and remove any remaining sinews. Stuff the leg with a
+forcemeat made of chicken or veal chopped very fine, and use with it the
+liver and a little strip of larding pork; season it with salt, pepper,
+and chopped parsley, and moisten it with one egg. Draw the skin over the
+end and sew it closely together, keeping the shape as natural as
+possible. Lay the stuffed legs in a baking-pan; cover with boiling
+water, and simmer an hour, or until tender; remove them from the water,
+press them into shape, and let cool. When cold, take out the stitches,
+dredge with salt and pepper, roll in beaten egg and bread crumbs, and
+fry in hot fat until browned; or broil them on both sides four minutes,
+if chicken; six minutes, if turkey legs; or they may be sauted in
+butter. They may be deviled by rubbing them with mustard and a little
+red pepper before coating with the eggs and crumbs. Serve them arranged
+like chops, the bones masked with paper frills.
+
+If preferred, the bones may be entirely removed, and the leg flattened
+to look like a cutlet. This can be done by placing them under a weight
+to cool after being boiled. Serve with an olive, Bearnaise, Tartare, or
+any sauce preferred.
+
+
+=GRILLED BONES=
+
+Take the wings, second joints, and drumsticks of cold cooked chicken;
+dip them in melted butter, sprinkle them with salt and pepper, and broil
+them until they are very hot and well browned.
+
+
+=CHICKEN A LA VIENNE=
+
+Split a small spring chicken down the back, as for broiling; remove the
+breast bone; then cut it into four pieces, giving two breast and two leg
+pieces, cut off the pinions; marinate the pieces in oil, vinegar,
+pepper, and salt; then roll in flour, and fry in hot fat, one piece at a
+time; drain and place on paper in the open oven until all are done. They
+should be a light golden color. Place a paper frill on the leg and wing
+bones, and dress them on a folded napkin. Serve with Tartare sauce; or
+arrange the pieces overlapping on a dish, and garnish with four lettuce
+leaves holding Tartare sauce.
+
+
+=CHICKEN, BALTIMORE STYLE=
+
+Split a small spring chicken down the back as for broiling; remove the
+breast-bone and cut off the pinions. Cut into four pieces; dredge with
+salt and pepper; dip them in egg and fresh crumbs. Place them in a pan,
+and pour over each piece enough melted butter to moisten it; then roast
+in the oven eighteen to twenty minutes. Make a cream sauce, taking one
+cupful of Bechamel sauce, and adding to it a half cupful of cream and a
+half tablespoonful of butter. Pour this sauce on a dish, and place the
+pieces of chicken on it. Garnish with slices of fried bacon.
+
+
+=CHICKEN IMPERIAL=
+
+Cut the breast from a chicken, retaining it in shape on the bone. Remove
+the skin, and lard the breast on each side with four lardoons. Place it
+in a deep saucepan; cover with stock or boiling water, and simmer for
+thirty to forty minutes, or until tender. Then remove from the water,
+and place in oven for ten minutes to take a very light color. Make a
+sauce as follows:
+
+Put into a saucepan one half cupful of the stock in which the breast was
+boiled, and one half cupful of cream. Let it come to the scalding point;
+season with salt and pepper and one tablespoonful of chopped parsley.
+Remove from fire, and stir in slowly two yolks and two tablespoonfuls
+of milk beaten together. Stir constantly until thickened, but do not let
+boil, or the egg will curdle. Strain and pour it around the breast. The
+breast should be carved diagonally, giving three pieces on each side.
+
+[Illustration: CHICKEN IMPERIALE AND STUFFED LEGS. (SEE PAGES 188 AND
+189.)]
+
+
+=CHICKEN BREASTS WITH POULETTE SAUCE=
+
+Remove the breasts from several chickens; cut them lengthwise, each
+breast giving four pieces. Simmer them in salted water until tender.
+Make a Poulette sauce (see page 280), and pour over the breasts piled on
+a dish. Sprinkle with parsley chopped very fine. Use a generous amount
+of sauce.
+
+
+=CHICKEN CHARTREUSE=
+
+Mix one cupful of cooked chicken minced very fine with
+
+ 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley,
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of onion juice,
+ 1/4 teaspoonful of salt,
+ 2 tablespoonfuls of tomato juice,
+ 1 beaten egg,
+ Dash of pepper.
+
+Grease well a charlotte russe or pudding mold; line it one inch thick
+with boiled rice. Fill the center with the chicken mixture, and cover
+the top with rice, so the chicken is entirely encased, and the mold is
+full and even. Cover and cook in steamer for forty-five minutes. Serve
+with it a tomato sauce; pour a little of the sauce on the dish around
+the form, not over it.
+
+[Illustration: CHARTREUSE OF CHICKEN GARNISHED WITH SLICE OF HARD-BOILED
+EGG AND PARSLEY. (SEE PAGES 83 AND 190.)]
+
+
+=CHICKEN SOUFFLE=
+
+ 1 tablespoonful of butter.
+ 1 tablespoonful of flour.
+ 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley.
+ 1 cupful of milk.
+ 1 cupful of minced chicken.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 3 eggs.
+ 10 drops of onion juice.
+ Dash of pepper.
+
+Make a white sauce by putting the butter in a saucepan or double boiler.
+When melted add the flour, and cook a moment without browning. Then add
+slowly the milk, and stir till smooth. Season with salt, pepper,
+parsley, and onion juice. There should be one cupful of the sauce.
+Remove from the fire, and stir in the beaten yolks of three eggs; then
+add a cupful of chicken chopped fine. Stir the mixture over the fire a
+minute until the egg has a little thickened; then set aside to cool. Rub
+a little butter over the top, so it will not form a crust. When time to
+serve beat very stiff the whites of the three eggs, and stir them
+lightly into the cold chicken mixture. Put it into a pudding dish, and
+bake in hot oven for twenty minutes. Serve at once in the same dish.
+This is a souffle, so the whites of the eggs must not be added until it
+is time for it to go into the oven, and it will fall if not served
+immediately after it comes from the oven. This dish may be made with any
+kind of meat. Chicken souffle may be baked in paper boxes, and served as
+an entree.
+
+
+=CHICKEN LOAF=
+
+Boil a fowl until the meat falls from the bones. Strain, and put the
+liquor again in the saucepan; reduce it to one and a half pints, and add
+one quarter box of soaked gelatine. Lay a few slices of hard-boiled egg
+on the bottom of a plain mold; fill the mold with alternate layers of
+white and dark meat of the chicken. Season the liquor, and pour it over
+the meat in the mold, and set it away to harden; it will become a jelly.
+It is a good dish to use with salad for luncheon or supper.
+
+
+=CHICKEN CHAUDFROID=
+
+Cut cold cooked chicken into as neat and uniform pieces as possible;
+remove the skin; make a chaudfroid sauce as directed on page 281. Mix
+the sauce thoroughly, and let it cool enough to thicken, but not harden.
+Roll each piece of chicken in this sauce until well coated. Range the
+pieces without touching in a pan, the ends resting on the raised edge;
+place the pan on ice until the sauce is set. Make a socle (see page 326)
+of bread or rice; rub it with butter, and mask it with chopped parsley.
+Arrange the pieces of chicken around the socle, resting them against
+it; then with a brush coat them over lightly with clear chicken aspic
+which is cold, but still liquid. Ornament the top of socle with a star
+of aspic, or with a bunch of nasturtium, or other blossoms or leaves.
+Garnish the dish with aspic, with flowers, or leaves; or, if socle is
+not used, pile the pieces in pyramidal form and garnish. Serve with it a
+Mayonnaise, Bearnaise, or Tartare sauce; or some of the chaudfroid sauce
+diluted.
+
+
+=CHICKEN MAYONNAISE=
+
+Cut cold cooked chicken into pieces; remove the skin, and trim the
+pieces into good shape. Cover each piece with jelly Mayonnaise (page
+290), and leave them in a cool place until the Mayonnaise has set. Trim
+them and dress them around an ornamented socle or a mound of salad, or
+lay each piece on a leaf of lettuce. Garnish with aspic or with flowers.
+Use a green, white, or yellow Mayonnaise; and keep in cold place until
+ready to serve.
+
+
+=ENGLISH CHICKEN PIE (COLD)=
+
+Take two tender chickens, and cut them up as for frying. Put them into a
+large saucepan with two and a half quarts of water; add a bouquet made
+of sweet marjoram, basil, parsley, three bay-leaves, sprig of thyme, and
+small blade of mace. Let them simmer until well cooked. Add to the pot
+when the chicken is about half done one half pound of bacon cut into
+small pieces like lardoons. Wash the bacon before adding it. A quarter
+of an hour before removing the chicken add the half of a small can of
+truffles cut into slices.
+
+Boil eight eggs very hard, and cut them in slices. Arrange on the bottom
+of an earthen dish a layer of egg slices and truffles, then a layer of
+chicken meat; alternate the layers until the dish is two-thirds full.
+Return the bones and coarse pieces of meat to the pot, and reduce the
+liquid one third. Strain, cool, and remove the grease. Return the stock
+to the fire, add a quarter box or one half ounce of soaked gelatine.
+Pour this over the chicken. When it has jellied and is ready to
+serve, place on the top a crust of puff paste, which has been cut to fit
+the dish, and has been baked separately.
+
+
+TURKEY
+
+The rules given for dressing and cooking chickens apply also
+to turkeys. Turkey can be substituted for chicken in any of
+the receipts given. A young turkey will have smooth black
+legs and white skin.
+
+ [Sidenote: General Directions.]
+
+Fifteen minutes to the pound is the time allowed for
+roasting or boiling a young turkey; for an old one more time
+will be required. They should have slow cooking and frequent
+basting. After a turkey is trussed, wet the skin; dredge it
+well with salt and pepper, and then with a thick coating of
+flour. This will give a crisp brown crust.
+
+
+=TURKEY GALANTINE OR BONED TURKEY=
+
+Select a young fat hen turkey. Bone it as directed, page 181; spread the
+boned meat on the table, the skin side down. Equalize the meat as well
+as possible by paring it off at the thick parts, and laying it on the
+thin parts. Leave the legs and wings drawn inside; lay a few lardoons of
+salt pork on the meat lengthwise. Make a forcemeat of another fowl or of
+veal, or of both chicken and veal. Chop it to a very fine mince, and
+pound it in a mortar to make it almost a paste. Season it with salt and
+pepper, savory, marjoram, thyme, and sage--about a half teaspoonful each
+of the herbs--one teaspoonful of onion juice, a half cupful of cold
+boiled tongue cut into dice, some truffles cut into large pieces.
+Moisten it with stock and mix thoroughly. It will take three or four
+pounds of meat, according to the size of the turkey, to make sufficient
+stuffing. Spread the forcemeat on the boned turkey, having the tongue,
+truffles, and a few pieces of both the white and dark meat of the turkey
+well interspersed through it. Roll up the turkey, making it as even as
+possible, and sew it together; then roll it in a piece of cheesecloth
+and tie it securely at both ends and around the roll in several places.
+
+Place the galantine and the bones of the fowl in a kettle, with an
+onion, carrot, celery, bouquet of herbs, and a tablespoonful of salt.
+Cover it with boiling water, and let simmer three or four hours; then
+remove it from the fire; let the galantine remain in the water for an
+hour; then take it out, cut the strings which bind it in the middle,
+draw the cloth so it will be tight and smooth, and place it under a
+weight until perfectly cold. A baking-pan holding two flatirons will
+answer the purpose. Remove the cloth carefully, set the galantine in the
+oven a moment to melt the fat, and wipe it off with a cloth; trim it
+smooth; then brush it over with glaze (see page 277), or rub it over
+with beaten egg and sprinkle with crumbs and brown in the oven; or,
+cover it with a chaudfroid sauce, and ornament it as shown in
+illustration. The ornament of cut truffles is applied by taking each
+piece on a long pin and placing it on the chaudfroid before it is quite
+set. When perfectly set it is brushed over lightly with a little liquid
+jelly. Galantine of chicken or game is made in the same way, except that
+in small pieces they are not flattened by being put under a
+weight.[194-*]
+
+A galantine is always used cold. Garnish with aspic. The water in which
+it was boiled--strained and cleared--may be used for the aspic. Use a
+box of gelatine to one and a half quarts of liquor.
+
+[Illustration: GALANTINE OF TURKEY COVERED WITH CHAUDFROID SAUCE AND
+DECORATED WITH TRUFFLES. (SEE PAGES 193, 281 AND 326.)]
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[194-*] A rectangular-shaped galantine may be obtained by pressing it
+into a bread-tin to cool. It should then be trimmed and incased in
+aspic, using the same or a slightly larger bread-tin of the same shape.
+See Molding, page 323.--M. R.
+
+
+=ROAST GOOSE=
+
+Green geese about four months old are the best, as they get very tough
+when much older. If there is any doubt about the age of the goose, it
+is better to braise than to roast it. It can be browned after it is
+braised, and have the same appearance as if roasted. Dress and truss a
+goose the same as a turkey; singe and wash the skin well; flatten the
+breast bone by striking it with a rolling-pin. Stuff it only partly full
+with mashed potato highly seasoned with onion, sage, salt, and pepper,
+or with a mixture of bread, apples, onions, sage, salt and pepper, and a
+little butter. Dredge the goose with salt, pepper, and a thick coating
+of flour; put a little water in the pan and baste frequently. Allow
+eighteen minutes to the pound for a young goose, twenty-five minutes for
+an older one. Serve with goose apple sauce and a brown giblet gravy.
+
+
+=TAME DUCKS=
+
+Prepare the same as geese. Stuff with the same mixture or with celery.
+Roast ducklings in a hot oven twenty minutes, if liked rare; thirty
+minutes if they are to be cooked through. Old ducks require an hour to
+cook, and should be basted frequently. Pekin ducks, a breed of white
+ducks raised in quantities on Long Island, are especially esteemed.
+
+
+
+GAME
+
+
+=CANVASBACKS AND REDHEAD DUCKS=
+
+Carefully pick, singe, and wipe the outside. Draw them, leaving on the
+head, so as to distinguish them from ordinary game. Cut an opening at
+the neck, and through it draw the head and neck, letting the head emerge
+at the back between the drumsticks, and tie it securely in place. Do not
+wash the inside. If carefully drawn they will not need it. Cut off the
+wings at the second joint. Truss the ducks neatly. Sprinkle with salt
+and pepper inside, and a teaspoonful of currant jelly may also be put
+inside. Place them in a baking-pan with a little water, and bake in a
+very hot oven from fifteen to eighteen minutes; baste frequently.
+
+Wild ducks should be very rare and served very hot, on hot plates. Each
+duck makes but two portions, as the breast only is served. Serve with
+duck small pieces of fried hominy and currant jelly.
+
+The Canvasback is superior in flavor to any other species of wild duck,
+and is much esteemed. They have a purple head and silver breast, and are
+in season from September to May. The "Redhead" closely resembles in
+flavor the "Canvasback," and often is mistaken for it.
+
+
+=SALMI OF DUCK OR GAME=
+
+Cut the game into neat pieces; put them in the oven for five minutes to
+start the juices. Put in a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter, one
+half pound of bacon or salt pork cut into dice, one tablespoonful each
+of chopped onion and carrot, twelve peppercorns, one saltspoonful each
+of salt, thyme, and sage, and any coarse pieces of the game. Cover with
+a greased paper and let cook to a glaze; then add a tablespoonful of
+flour, and let it brown; then two cupfuls of stock; simmer for thirty
+minutes; strain; add one quarter cupful of Madeira and the pieces of
+game; cover and let simmer another thirty minutes.
+
+This dish needs long, slow cooking and careful watching. Garnish with
+croutons and truffles.
+
+The truffles should be added to the salmi a few minutes before it is
+removed from the fire. If cooked game is used for the salmi, simmer for
+ten minutes only after the pieces are added to the sauce.
+
+
+=POTTED PIGEONS (Dark Meat)=
+
+Unless pigeons are young they should be braised or stewed in broth.
+Truss them carefully; place slices of bacon on the bottom of a stew-pan;
+lay in the pigeons side by side, their breasts up; add a carrot and
+onion cut into dice, a teaspoonful of sugar, and some parsley, and pour
+over enough stock or boiling water to cover them. Cover the pot closely.
+Let them simmer until they are tender, adding boiling water or stock
+when necessary. Serve each pigeon on a thin piece of moistened buttered
+toast.
+
+
+=ROAST PIGEONS OR SQUABS=
+
+Do not roast pigeons unless they are young and tender. After they are
+well trussed, or tied into shape, tie thin slices of bacon over the
+breasts, and put a little piece of butter inside each pigeon. Boast them
+about fifteen minutes; baste them with butter.
+
+Or split the pigeons in two through the back and breast, cover with thin
+slices of salt pork, and roast them in the oven. Thicken the gravy in
+the pan with a little cornstarch. Season and moisten with it slices of
+toast on which the half pigeons will be served.
+
+
+=PRAIRIE-CHICKEN OR GROUSE ROASTED (Dark Meat)=
+
+Grouse, like all game, should not be too fresh. Wash them on the outside
+only, the same as directed for chicken (page 181). Put a little butter
+inside each bird and truss them into good shape. Roast them in a hot
+oven twenty-five to thirty minutes, basting them frequently with melted
+butter. Five minutes before removing them dredge them with flour. Boil
+the liver of the grouse, pound it with a little butter, pepper, and salt
+to a paste; spread it over hot buttered toast moistened with juice from
+the pan. Serve the grouse on the toast. Prairie-chickens have dark meat,
+and many epicures declare that they should be cooked quite as rare as
+canvasback ducks and that their flavor when so served is unsurpassed.
+Young prairie-chickens have a much lighter meat and need not be so rare.
+
+
+=QUAILS ROASTED (White Meat)=
+
+Draw the birds carefully. Wipe them inside and out with a damp cloth; do
+not wash them more than this. Truss them carefully, letting the legs
+stand up instead of down, as with a chicken. Tie around each one a thin
+slice of pork or bacon. Bake in a hot oven fifteen to twenty minutes.
+Baste frequently, having in the pan a little butter, hot water, salt,
+and pepper. Serve on slices of toast moistened with juice from the pan.
+
+
+=QUAILS BROILED=
+
+Split them down the back. Broil over hot coals four minutes on each
+side. Baste them while broiling with a little butter. When they are done
+spread them with butter, salt, and pepper; place them on slices of
+slightly moistened toast, and stand them in the oven a few minutes to
+soak the butter.
+
+
+=SNIPE AND WOODCOCK (Dark Meat)=
+
+Draw the birds carefully. Wipe inside and out with a wet cloth, but do
+not wash more than this, as it takes away their flavor. Cut off the
+feet, and skin the lower legs, which can be done after holding them a
+minute in scalding water. Skin the head, and take out the eyes. Press
+the bird well together; draw around the head, and run the bill like a
+skewer through the legs and body. Wrap each one in a thin slice of pork
+or bacon, and bake in a hot oven for ten minutes; baste with butter.
+Chop or pound the hearts and livers to a paste. Season with salt,
+pepper, onion juice, and butter. Spread the paste on slices of toast
+just large enough to hold one bird. Place the croustades in the oven to
+become very hot. Pour over them the juice from the dripping-pan holding
+the birds. Place the birds on the toast, and serve at once. Garnish the
+dish with water-cress. The croustades are better fried than toasted.
+
+
+=ROASTED AND BROILED PARTRIDGE (White Meat)=
+
+Dress and truss the partridge the same as a chicken. Lard the breast, or
+cover it with a slice of salt pork. Put into the baking-pan with the
+bird one tablespoonful of butter, and two of boiling water. Roast in a
+hot oven about forty minutes, basting frequently.
+
+The partridge has white meat, and so needs to be thoroughly cooked, but
+not dried. Place the bird on a hot dish, and around it on the same dish
+a border of coarse bread-crumbs, which have been thoroughly mixed in a
+saucepan with a tablespoonful of melted butter. Serve in a sauce-boat a
+white sauce or a bread sauce. If the partridge is to be broiled split it
+down the back, rub it well with butter, place the inside next the coals;
+cover and broil for twenty-five minutes. Keep it well moistened with
+butter, and turn it to brown on the skin side a few minutes before done.
+Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve on buttered toast.
+
+
+=VENISON=
+
+Venison is prepared and cooked the same as mutton. The roasting pieces
+are the saddle, and haunch or leg. It should be cooked underdone,
+allowing ten minutes to the pound. Serve with it currant jelly sauce and
+salad.
+
+
+=VENISON STEAK=
+
+A venison steak is cooked in the same manner as a beefsteak. A little
+melted currant jelly is served on the same dish, or as a sauce (see page
+287).[199-*]
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[199-*] The steak should be moistened with the sauce so it will have a
+glazed appearance.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+VEGETABLES
+
+
+ [Sidenote: General Directions.]
+
+The simplest way of cooking vegetables is usually the best;
+but all kinds need seasoning or to be served with a sauce.
+They should be cooked only until tender. The time depends
+upon their freshness. The same vegetable sometimes takes
+twice the time to cook when wilted. They should be well
+washed in cold water to remove all dust and insects, and if
+wilted, should stand some time in it to refresh them. Green
+vegetables are put into salted boiling water, and cooked
+rapidly in an uncovered saucepan. This will preserve their
+color. Overcooking destroys both their color and appearance.
+When done they should be removed from the water at once and
+be well drained before the seasoning is added.
+
+ [Sidenote: Serving.]
+
+One vegetable only besides potato is served with a meat
+course, but cauliflower, stuffed tomatoes, asparagus, green
+corn, egg-plant, artichokes, or mushrooms may be served as a
+separate course.
+
+ [Sidenote: Canned Vegetables]
+
+When using canned vegetables, turn them onto a sieve or
+colander, and let water from the faucet run over them in
+order to remove the taste of the can which they sometimes
+have.
+
+[Illustration: VEGETABLE CUTTERS.
+
+ 1. Plane for cutting Saratoga Potatoes.
+ 2. Potato Press for making potato rice.
+ 3. Fluted knives for potato straws or fluted slices, and for potato
+ curls.
+ 4. Potato scoops for cutting balls.]
+
+
+=BOILED POTATOES=
+
+Wash the potatoes well; take off only a thin paring, and drop them at
+once into cold water to prevent their discoloring. Have them of uniform
+size, or cut the larger ones into pieces the size of the small ones, so
+they will all be cooked at the same time, for after a potato is cooked
+it rapidly absorbs water and becomes soggy. If the potatoes are old or
+withered, put them on to cook in cold water; if fresh and firm, put them
+into boiling salted water, and boil slowly about thirty minutes, or
+until they can be easily pierced with a fork. Then at once drain off
+every drop of water; shake them in the pot a moment to expose all sides
+to the air; sprinkle with a little salt; cover the pot with a double
+cloth, and place it on the back of the range for a few minutes to
+evaporate all the moisture. If treated in this way the potatoes will be
+dry and mealy.
+
+Violent boiling is likely to break the outside surface and make them
+ragged in appearance.
+
+New potatoes are boiled with the skins on.
+
+
+=MASHED POTATOES=
+
+After the potatoes are boiled and dried as directed above, mash them at
+once over the fire and in the same pot in which they were boiled, so
+that they will lose no heat. Season them with salt, butter, and cream or
+milk; heat the milk and butter together; add them slowly, and beat the
+potatoes well with a fork or an egg-beater until they are very light and
+white. Turn them into a hot dish. Do not smooth the top.
+
+
+=POTATO CAKES=
+
+Mashed potato left over may be used for cakes. Add an egg to a cupful
+and a half of potato and beat them well together until light; form it
+into cakes or balls; roll them in flour and saute in butter, or spread
+the mixture in a layer one inch thick; cut it into strips or squares and
+saute; or put it into a well-buttered border mold; cover with greased
+paper, and bake for half an hour in a moderate oven. Let it stand in
+the mold for ten minutes; then turn onto a dish, and fill the center
+with any mince or with creamed fish. Mashed potato without egg will not
+hold its form when molded.
+
+
+=POTATO RICE=
+
+Press well-seasoned mashed potatoes through a colander or a potato press
+onto the center of a dish, leaving the little flakes lightly piled up.
+Serve chops or minced meat around the mound of potato.
+
+
+=POTATO SOUFFLE=
+
+To two cupfuls of smooth, well-seasoned, and quite moist mashed potatoes
+add the yolks of two eggs. When a little cooled stir in lightly the
+whites of two eggs beaten very stiff. Put the whole into a pudding-dish,
+and brown it in a quick oven.
+
+
+=POTATO ROSES=
+
+To two cupfuls of well-seasoned mashed potatoes, add the yolks of two
+eggs and white of one, and beat them well together. Place it in a pastry
+bag with a tube having a star-shaped opening (see illustration), and
+press it through. As the potato comes from the tube, guide it in a
+circle, winding it around until it comes to a point. The little piles of
+potato will resemble roses. Touch them lightly with a brush dipped in
+egg, and place a bit of butter on each one. Put them in the oven a
+moment to brown slightly. The edges touched by the egg will take a
+deeper color. Potato roses make a good garnish for meat dishes.
+
+[Illustration: POTATO ROSES. (SEE PAGE 202.)]
+
+
+=POTATO CROQUETTES=
+
+To two cupfuls of well-seasoned mashed potatoes add the beaten yolks of
+two eggs, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, one and a half
+tablespoonfuls of butter (if none has been used in seasoning), a dash of
+cayenne and nutmeg; stir over the fire until the potato leaves the sides
+of the pan. When cold, form it into small croquettes, roll them in egg
+and bread-crumbs and fry them in hot fat to an amber color. Serve on a
+napkin (see frying croquettes, page 294). The croquette mixture may be
+made into balls enclosing minced meat. When used in this way serve with
+it a white sauce.
+
+
+=POTATO BALLS=
+
+With a potato scoop (see illustration) cut balls out of peeled raw
+potatoes, and drop them in cold water for half an hour. Put them into
+salted boiling water and boil for fifteen minutes, or until tender;
+drain off the water; cover with a cloth and let stand on the back of the
+range until dry. Serve them on a napkin, or pour over them white sauce,
+and sprinkle with parsley, or use them as a garnish. The pieces of
+potato left from cutting the balls can be boiled and mashed, so there is
+no waste.
+
+
+=POTATO OMELET=
+
+Cut cold boiled potatoes into dice a quarter of an inch square; mix them
+with enough white sauce to well moisten them.
+
+Place a tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan; when the butter is hot,
+put in the potatoes and saute them until browned on the bottom, loosen
+them from the pan, and turn them like an omelet onto a flat dish; or
+this preparation may be put in a baking-dish, sprinkled with crumbs and
+grated cheese, then put in the oven to brown, and served in the same
+dish.
+
+
+=CREAMED POTATOES=
+
+Cut cold boiled potatoes that are a little underdone into dice or into
+slices one eighth of an inch thick. Put them in a saucepan with enough
+milk or cream to cover them, and cook until the potatoes have absorbed
+nearly all the milk; then to every two cupfuls of potato add one
+tablespoonful of butter, one half teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper,
+and, just before serving, a teaspoonful of parsley chopped very fine; or
+a white sauce may be made, using cream, if convenient, and the potatoes
+placed in it just long enough to heat them; or a cream sauce may be
+poured over hot boiled potatoes; then sprinkle with parsley.
+
+
+=BROILED POTATOES=
+
+Peel and cut the potatoes lengthwise into slices one quarter of an inch
+thick. Broil them on both sides over moderate heat until tender; spread
+each slice with butter, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Serve very
+hot.
+
+Or, use cold boiled potatoes. Dip each slice in melted butter; sprinkle
+with pepper and salt and broil three minutes on each side.
+
+
+=BAKED POTATOES=
+
+Select large potatoes of uniform size and shape. Wash and scrub them
+with a brush. Bake them in a hot oven about an hour, or until soft;
+press them to see if done, but do not pierce them with a fork; when soft
+break the skin in one place, and serve at once on a napkin. They become
+watery if kept.
+
+
+=STUFFED POTATOES=
+
+Select potatoes of equal size and shape, wash and scrub them well and
+bake them. While they are still hot cut a piece off the top of each, and
+with a spoon scoop out the potato, leaving the skin unbroken. Mash and
+season the potato, using a little hot milk and beating it well to make
+it light. Fill the potato skins with the mashed potato, letting it rise
+a little above the top of the skin. Place a piece of butter on the top
+of each, and put them in the oven to get well heated and slightly brown
+the tops; or cut the baked potatoes in two, lengthwise, and when the
+skins are filled, smooth the potato even with the skin; brush them with
+egg and set in the oven to glaze. (See illustration.)
+
+[Illustration: STUFFED BAKED POTATOES. (SEE PAGE 204.)]
+
+
+=POTATOES BAKED WITH MEAT=
+
+Pare the potatoes, and place them in the dripping-pan with the meat one
+hour before the meat is to be removed. Baste them with the drippings,
+and turn so all sides will be browned.
+
+
+=LYONNAISE POTATOES=
+
+Put one and a half tablespoonfuls of butter in a frying-pan. When melted
+add a scant tablespoonful of chopped onion; let it slightly color, then
+add two cupfuls of cold boiled potatoes cut into dice. Stir until the
+potato has absorbed all the butter, and become slightly browned; then
+sprinkle with salt, pepper, and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Mix
+well, and serve very hot.
+
+
+=FRIED POTATOES=
+
+Cold boiled potatoes are sliced, then put into a saute-pan with butter,
+and cooked until browned on both sides. If rolled in flour they will
+form a crisp crust. Raw potatoes are sliced or cut into any shape, and
+put into cold water for half an hour. They are then well dried on a
+napkin, and immersed in hot fat until done. Too many must not be put in
+the basket at once, as it cools the fat (see frying, page 72). Fry them
+to an amber color; then drain, and place them on a paper in the oven
+until all are done. Serve them at once, as they lose their crispness if
+kept.
+
+
+=FRIED POTATO BALLS AND STRAWS=
+
+To make balls use a potato scoop; press it well into the potato before
+turning it. To make straws cut the potato into slices lengthwise, and
+then into strips, making each one about one eighth of an inch thick.
+
+Slices or strips cut with a fluted knife are good forms for fried
+potatoes. Fry the potatoes in hot fat, using a basket. Fancy fried
+potatoes are used to garnish any broiled meat dish. There are many kinds
+of cutters to give different shapes to potatoes.
+
+
+=SARATOGA POTATOES=
+
+Cut the potatoes with a plane into slices as thin as paper if possible.
+Let them soak in cold water for a little time to wash out the starch;
+then put them into fresh water with a piece of ice to thoroughly chill
+them. Drain a few of the slices at a time, dry them on a napkin; put
+them in a frying basket and immerse them in smoking-hot fat. Keep them
+separated, and remove as soon as slightly colored. Turn them into a
+colander to drain, and sprinkle them with salt. When the second lot are
+fried turn those in the colander onto a paper in the open oven, and so
+on until all are done. Saratoga potatoes should be perfectly dry and
+crisp. They may be used hot or cold, and will keep for some time in a
+dry place. If wanted hot, place them in the oven a moment before
+serving.
+
+
+=PUFFED OR SOUFFLE POTATOES=
+
+Peel the potatoes; cut the sides square, and trim off the corners, so as
+to give an oval shape. With one even cut slice them one eighth of an
+inch thick the length of the potato; they must be all the same size and
+shape. Soak them in cold water for half an hour; dry them on a napkin,
+and fry them in fat which is only moderately hot until they are soft,
+but not colored. Remove and place them on a sieve to drain and cool.
+Then immerse them in hot fat, when they will puff into balls. Toss the
+basket, and remove any that do not puff. Sprinkle with salt, and serve
+them on a napkin, or as a garnish. Holland potatoes best suit this
+purpose; it is impossible to get the same result with most of the other
+varieties.
+
+
+=SWEET POTATOES=
+
+Wash and scrub the potatoes; put them in boiling water, and cook until
+they can be pierced with a fork; then pour off the water. Cover the pot
+with a cloth, and draw it to the side of the range to let the potatoes
+steam for ten minutes. Peel them before serving.
+
+
+=BAKED SWEET POTATOES=
+
+Wash and scrub the potatoes without breaking the skin. Bake until soft;
+then break the skin in one place, and serve at once.
+
+
+=BROWNED SWEET POTATOES=
+
+Cut cold boiled potatoes into slices one quarter of an inch thick.
+Sprinkle them with salt and pepper; spread with butter, and sprinkle
+with sugar. Place them in a hot oven to brown.
+
+
+=SWEET POTATO CROQUETTES=
+
+Follow the rule for potato croquettes given on page 202.
+
+
+=SWEET POTATO PUREE=
+
+Mash thoroughly the boiled potatoes, and season them well with salt,
+pepper, and butter; add enough hot milk to moisten them. Serve it the
+same as mashed white potato; or put it in a pudding-dish, brush the top
+with egg, and brown it in the oven. Serve with it a tomato sauce, and
+use as a luncheon dish. Either boiled or baked potatoes may be used.
+
+
+=STEWED TOMATOES=
+
+If fresh tomatoes are used remove the skins by placing them in boiling
+water a few minutes; they will then peel off easily. Cut them in pieces,
+and stew in a granite-ware saucepan until tender. To one quart of
+tomatoes add one teaspoonful each of salt and sugar, one quarter
+teaspoonful of pepper, and a tablespoonful of butter. Thicken with a
+teaspoonful of cornstarch wet in cold water, or with one half cupful of
+cracker or bread-crumbs.
+
+
+=SCALLOPED TOMATOES=
+
+Season a can of tomatoes with one teaspoonful of salt, and one quarter
+teaspoonful of pepper. Spread a shallow baking dish with a thin layer of
+bread-crumbs; pour in the tomatoes, sprinkle over them a tablespoonful
+of sugar, and a few drops of onion juice. Cover the top with a cupful of
+bread-crumbs which have been moistened with a tablespoonful of melted
+butter. Bake in a hot oven for fifteen minutes. Serve in the same dish.
+
+
+=STUFFED TOMATOES=
+
+Select large, firm tomatoes; do not remove the skins; cut a small slice
+off the stem end, and scoop out the inside. Fill them with a stuffing
+made as follows: Put one tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan; when hot
+add one tablespoonful of onion chopped fine. Let it color slightly; then
+add three quarters of a cupful of any minced meat, chicken, or livers,
+one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, one cupful of bread-crumbs, the
+pulp taken from the tomatoes, one teaspoonful of salt, one quarter
+teaspoonful of pepper, and also an egg if desired. Stir it over the fire
+until it is consistent. Dust the inside of the tomatoes with salt and
+pepper, and fill them, letting the stuffing rise half an inch above the
+tomato, and place a piece of butter on it. The above amount of stuffing
+is enough for eight tomatoes. Cut slices of bread one half inch thick
+into circles the size of the tomatoes; dip them quickly in water, and
+place in a baking-pan. Place a tomato on each piece of bread, and bake
+in oven about fifteen minutes, or until the stuffing is browned. A brown
+sauce may be served with this dish. The meat may be omitted from the
+stuffing if desired. If convenient it is better to use oil instead of
+butter with tomatoes.
+
+
+=ROASTED TOMATOES=
+
+Peel the tomatoes; cut a piece off the top, and remove a little of the
+pulp. Put a piece of butter or a few drops of oil in each one; dust with
+salt and pepper, replace the top, sprinkle it with crumbs, pepper, and
+salt. Put a small piece of butter or a little oil on each one, and place
+on a slice of bread. Bake in oven fifteen to twenty minutes.
+
+
+=BROILED TOMATOES=
+
+Cut the tomatoes horizontally in two; leave the skins on. Place them on
+a broiler with the skin side down; dust with salt and pepper, and broil,
+without turning, over a moderate fire fifteen to twenty minutes, or
+until tender. Lay them on a hot dish, and spread each piece with either
+butter, oil, maitre d'hotel sauce, hot Mayonnaise or Bearnaise; or the
+tomatoes may be cut into thick slices, covered with oil, and then
+broiled, turning frequently.
+
+
+=TOMATO FARCI=
+
+Cut the tomatoes in halves; place them in a frying-pan, the open side
+down, in one half inch deep of hot fat. Move them about until they are
+cooked a little tender. Then lift them carefully without breaking, and
+place them side by side in a baking-dish. Pour a little sweet oil around
+them; sprinkle with chopped garlic, and parsley, salt, pepper, and
+cayenne. Bake in hot oven fifteen to twenty minutes. Serve in same dish.
+
+
+=GREEN PEAS=
+
+The flavor of peas, and also the time required for cooking them, depends
+very much upon their freshness. Put them into salted boiling water, and
+do not cover the saucepan; boil ten to twenty minutes, or until soft
+enough to be easily mashed. Drain off the water, and season with pepper,
+salt, and butter. Mix in the seasoning carefully with a fork, so as not
+to break the peas. Sometimes a little sugar improves them. Use plenty of
+water in boiling, and do not let them be overcooked, as this is as bad a
+fault as having them underdone. When canned peas are used turn them onto
+a sieve, and rinse them off with cold water (this will remove the taste
+of the can, which they sometimes have); add the seasoning, and let them
+become thoroughly heated. They do not require any more cooking.
+
+
+=PUREE OF PEAS=
+
+Boil the peas until very tender; mash and press them through a sieve.
+Place them again in the saucepan, and stir into them enough hot milk,
+pepper and salt, to well moisten and season them; add also some butter,
+and a very little sugar.
+
+Dried peas may be used in this way, but require soaking and long
+boiling. The puree makes a pretty garnish pressed through a pastry bag
+like potato roses (see page 202), or into a fancy border around a dish.
+
+[Illustration: FORMS OF PUREE FOR GARNISHING. (SEE PAGES 209, 210, AND
+217.)]
+
+
+=STRING BEANS=
+
+Remove carefully all the strings; cut the beans into one-quarter inch
+pieces, laying a number together, and cutting them at one time; or cut
+each bean lengthwise into four strips, and lay them evenly together.
+Place them in salted boiling water, and boil uncovered until tender;
+drain off the water, and season with salt, pepper, and butter, or mix
+with them just enough white sauce (page 277) to coat them well.
+
+
+=FLAGEOLETS=
+
+If the dried beans are used soak them several hours in cold water; then
+throw them into salted boiling water, and boil until tender, but not
+soft enough to break. Use plenty of water in boiling them, and drain
+well. Season with butter, salt, and pepper. If cooked right the beans
+will be glossy. They are good also as a puree, the same as puree of peas
+(see page 209).
+
+
+=LIMA BEANS=
+
+Put them into salted boiling water, and cook until tender, then drain
+off the water. Moisten them with butter, and season with salt and
+pepper; and add, if convenient, a little hot cream, or cover with white
+sauce.
+
+
+=SPINACH=
+
+Put a half peck of spinach into cold water to freshen; pick it over
+carefully, removing all the wilted and yellow leaves. Pass it through
+five changes of water to free it from grit. Put it in a saucepan; enough
+water will cling to it for the cooking. Cover the saucepan; stir
+occasionally so it does not burn. After fifteen minutes add a
+tablespoonful of salt, and cook five minutes longer; then turn it into a
+colander to drain; when it is dry chop it very fine. Put into a saucepan
+one and a half tablespoonfuls of butter, and one tablespoonful of flour.
+After they are a little cooked add a teaspoonful of salt, dash of
+pepper, and the spinach. Cook five minutes; then add a half cupful of
+cream or milk, and cook another five minutes. Stir constantly, to
+prevent burning. Taste to see if the seasoning is right. Serve either in
+a vegetable dish, or in the center of a dish with chops around it, or in
+bread boxes as shown in illustration; or press the spinach into
+individual timbale molds, place each form on a square of toast, and
+garnish the top of each one in imitation of a daisy by placing in the
+center some of the yolks of hard-boiled eggs which have been pressed
+through a sieve, and around this center a circle of the whites of the
+eggs chopped fine; or a thick slice of hard-boiled egg may be pressed
+into the top of each mold.
+
+[Illustration: SPINACH SERVED IN CROUSTADES OR BREAD-BOXES.]
+
+
+=SPINACH SOUFFLE=
+
+Take a cupful of spinach which has been prepared as directed above (any
+that is left over can be utilized in this way); mix with it the beaten
+yolk of an egg, and stir it over the fire until the egg is set. Let it
+cool. When ready to serve stir into it lightly the well-beaten whites of
+three eggs. Fill individual china cups or buttered paper boxes half
+full, and place them in a hot oven for ten to fifteen minutes. Serve at
+once. Like any souffle, it will fall if not sufficiently baked, or if
+not served very promptly.
+
+
+=CHARTREUSE OF SPINACH OR OF CABBAGE=
+
+Boil a large carrot and turnip; cut them into slices lengthwise three
+eighths of an inch thick, then into strips of the same width. Butter
+well a tin basin, with slightly flaring sides, or a plain mold. Ornament
+the bottom with hard-boiled egg, or with fancy pieces of the vegetables.
+Around the sides of the mold place close together alternate strips of
+the carrot and turnip. If the mold is well buttered they will easily
+hold in place. Fill the center with spinach or with seasoned chopped
+cabbage, and press it down so it is quite firm; smooth the top and cut
+off the strips of vegetable so that they are even. Heat the chartreuse
+by placing the mold in a pan of hot water and putting both in the oven
+for a few minutes. Turn the chartreuse on a flat dish to serve. A white
+or a vinaigrette sauce goes well with this dish. Birds, veal cutlets,
+chops, chicken, or sweetbreads may be placed on top of the chartreuse if
+desired.
+
+[Illustration: CHARTREUSE OF SPINACH. (SEE PAGES 83 AND 211.)
+
+Border of alternate strips of carrot and turnip. Top circles of carrot
+and turnip.]
+
+
+=ASPARAGUS=
+
+Scrape the stalks; let them stand in cold water for half an hour; tie
+them again into a bundle and make them uniform in length; put them into
+salted boiling water and cook about twenty minutes or until tender, but
+not so soft as to be limp. Place the asparagus on buttered toast and
+remove the string. Serve with the asparagus, but separately, plain
+melted butter, a white, or a Hollandaise sauce. Cold boiled asparagus is
+served as a salad with plain French dressing (see page 375) or with cold
+Bearnaise sauce.
+
+
+=ASPARAGUS TIPS=
+
+Cut the asparagus stalks into pieces about an inch long, and as far down
+as tender. Cook them in salted boiling water. Drain and stir into them
+just enough white sauce to well coat them.
+
+
+
+CABBAGE
+
+
+ [Sidenote: Cabbage.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Cauliflower.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Brussels sprouts.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Kohlrabi.]
+
+Four vegetables are the result of the cabbage plant by
+cultivation. As the rose changes its character under the
+hand of the floriculturist, so it is with cabbage at the
+hand of the gardener. First is the cabbage, which is the
+leafy bud that stores up food for a flower the next year.
+Second, the cauliflower, which is a cluster (corymb) of
+forced cabbage flowers. Third, Brussels sprouts. The leaves
+are picked off, and small buds form along the stem; and
+fourth, kohlrabi, which is the leaves turned into a fleshy
+tuberous-like vegetable. In these results two of the phases,
+cauliflower and Brussels sprouts, are much esteemed, and are
+given rank with the best vegetables, while cabbage and kohlrabi
+have little favor, and are considered coarse and vulgar foods.
+The cabbage, however, if properly cooked, will be found an
+exceedingly palatable vegetable, which very closely resembles
+cauliflower.
+
+
+
+=BOILED CABBAGE=
+
+If this receipt is exactly followed, this much-despised vegetable will
+be found very acceptable, and its odor will not be perceptible through
+the house. Cut the cabbage into good-sized pieces, take off the outside
+leaves, and cut away the hard core. Wash it well in two changes of
+water, and place the pieces, open side down, on a colander to drain.
+Have a very generous amount of water in a large saucepan or pot; let it
+boil violently; add a tablespoonful of salt and one quarter teaspoonful
+of baking soda; put in the cabbage, one piece at a time, so as to check
+the boiling as little as possible. Let it cook for twenty-five minutes
+uncovered and boiling rapidly all the time. Push the cabbage under the
+water every five minutes. Turn it into a colander and press out all the
+water. Put into a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter, a heaping
+teaspoonful of flour, one half teaspoonful of salt and a dash of pepper;
+add slowly one half cupful of milk, and stir till smooth; then add the
+cabbage. Cut it into large pieces with a knife, and mix it lightly with
+the sauce. If the cabbage is free from water the sauce will adhere to it
+and form a creamy coating.
+
+This receipt of Catherine Owen has been found most satisfactory.
+
+
+=CABBAGE WITH CHEESE=
+
+(_Very Good._)
+
+Boil the cabbage as directed above. Press out all the water and chop it.
+Make a white sauce of one tablespoonful each of butter and flour, one
+cupful of milk, one half teaspoonful of salt, dash of cayenne (see page
+277). Spread a layer of cabbage on the bottom of a pudding-dish; cover
+it with white sauce; then add a layer of grated cheese. Make a second
+layer of cabbage, sauce, and cheese; cover the top with a layer of
+crumbs moistened with butter, and place it in the oven. When the sauce
+bubbles through the crumbs it is done. Serve in same dish.
+
+
+=SWEDISH CABBAGE=
+
+Slice the cabbage into thin shreds as for cold slaw; cook it in a
+generous amount of rapidly boiling water for fifteen minutes; then drain
+off the water; cover it with milk; add salt, pepper, and a bit of mace,
+and cook until tender, and until the milk has boiled away so that it
+only moistens the cabbage. Add a piece of butter, and serve.
+
+
+=HOT SLAW=
+
+Cut the cabbage into thin shreds as for cold slaw. (Use a plane if
+convenient.) Boil it until tender in salted fast-boiling water. Drain it
+thoroughly, and pour over it a hot sauce made of one tablespoonful of
+butter, one half teaspoonful of salt, dash of pepper and of cayenne, and
+one half to one cupful of vinegar, according to its strength. Cover the
+saucepan and let it stand on the side of the range for five minutes, so
+that the cabbage and sauce will become well incorporated.
+
+
+=BRUSSELS SPROUTS=
+
+Remove any wilted leaves from the outside of the sprouts, and let them
+stand in cold salted water from fifteen to twenty minutes, so that any
+insects there may be in them will come out. Put the sprouts into salted,
+rapidly boiling water, and cook uncovered fifteen or twenty minutes, or
+until tender, but not until they lose their shape. Drain them thoroughly
+in a colander; then place them in a saucepan with butter, pepper, and
+salt, and toss them until seasoned; or mix them lightly with just enough
+white sauce to coat them.
+
+
+=CAULIFLOWER=
+
+Trim off the outside leaves and cut the stalk even with the flower. Let
+it stand upside down in cold salted water for fifteen or twenty minutes
+to take out any insects there may be in it. Put it into a generous
+quantity of rapidly boiling salted water and cook it uncovered about
+twenty minutes or until tender, but not so soft as to fall to pieces.
+Remove any scum from the water before lifting out the cauliflower. If
+not perfectly white, rub a little white sauce over it. Serve with it a
+white, a Bechamel, or a Hollandaise sauce; or it may be served as a
+garnish to chicken, sweetbreads, etc., the little bunches being broken
+off and mixed with white sauce.
+
+
+=CAULIFLOWER AU GRATIN=
+
+Break the boiled cauliflower into small flowerets. Place them in a
+pudding-dish in alternate layers with white sauce and grated cheese.
+Cover the top with crumbs moistened with butter, and bake until the
+sauce bubbles through the crumbs.
+
+
+=EGG-PLANT=
+
+Cut the egg-plant into slices one quarter of an inch thick, after
+removing the skin. Sprinkle the slices with salt. Pile them one upon
+another on the back of a dish. Place on them a plate holding a weight;
+let it stand one hour to express the juice. Dip the slices in egg and
+crumbs, or in egg and flour, and saute on both sides in lard or
+drippings.
+
+
+=STUFFED EGG-PLANT=
+
+Boil an egg-plant twenty to thirty minutes, or until tender. Cut it in
+two lengthwise, and take out the pulp, using care not to break the skin.
+Mash the pulp, and season it with butter, salt, and pepper; replace it
+in the skins; sprinkle with bread-crumbs moistened in butter, and place
+in the oven to brown.
+
+
+=STUFFED PEPPERS=
+
+Use green sweet peppers of uniform size. Cut a piece off the stem end,
+or cut them in two lengthwise, and remove the seeds and partitions. Put
+them in boiling water for five minutes to parboil. Fill each one with a
+stuffing made of equal parts of softened bread-crumbs and minced meat
+well seasoned with salt, butter, and a few drops of onion juice. Place
+them in a baking-dish with water, or better stock, half an inch deep,
+and bake in a moderate oven for half an hour. Serve them in the same
+dish if a suitable one is used; if not, remove them carefully to another
+dish.
+
+
+=CHESTNUT PUREE=
+
+Remove the shells; boil ten minutes; then drain and remove the skins.
+Put them in boiling salted water, and cook until tender; then drain,
+mash, and press them through a colander. Season with butter, salt, and
+pepper; moisten with cream, or milk, or stock.
+
+
+=CELERY STEWED=
+
+Cut the celery into pieces one inch long. Boil in salted water until
+tender; drain and mix with a white sauce.
+
+
+=CELERY AU JUS=
+
+Cut heads of celery into pieces six inches long, leaving them attached
+to the root; remove the coarse branches, and trim the roots neatly.
+Parboil it for five minutes. Make a brown roux, using two tablespoonfuls
+each of butter and flour, one teaspoonful of salt, and one quarter
+teaspoonful of pepper, and dash of nutmeg. Add two cupfuls of stock when
+the roux is well browned; and in this, place the bunches of celery;
+cover and cook very slowly for twenty-five minutes. Remove the celery,
+and place it evenly on a dish. Strain the gravy; pour it around or over
+the celery.
+
+
+=CARROTS AND TURNIPS=
+
+Cut carrots and turnips into dice one quarter of an inch square, or with
+a small potato scoop cut them into balls. Boil them separately in salted
+water; drain and mix them carefully together. Stir lightly into them
+enough white sauce to moisten them well.
+
+
+=MACEDOINE OF VEGETABLES=
+
+Cut a carrot and turnip into half inch dice, or with small
+vegetable-cutters cut them into fancy shapes or into small balls. Mix
+them in about equal proportions with green peas, flageolet beans,
+string-beans cut into half inch lengths, and small pieces of
+cauliflower. The vegetables should be boiled separately and well drained
+before being put together, and when prepared should be mixed lightly so
+as not to break them, and seasoned with butter, pepper, and salt, or be
+moistened with a Bechamel or a cream sauce. The macedoine may be used as
+a garnish for meat, or can be served separately in a vegetable dish.
+This mixture of vegetables may also be used for a salad. Sometimes the
+vegetables, instead of being mixed together, are placed in separate
+piles around the meat or on a flat dish, and then give a good effect of
+color.
+
+
+=DRIED BEANS=
+
+BOILED, BAKED, PUREE, CROQUETTES
+
+Wash the beans, and soak them over night. Boil them slowly until tender,
+changing the water several times. They are improved in flavor by boiling
+with them a small piece of salt pork, a bay-leaf, and onion. If they are
+to be baked remove them from the water when the skin will break easily;
+put them in a pipkin or bean pot, bury in them a piece of salt pork with
+the rind scored; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Pour over them a
+tablespoonful of molasses, and enough salted water to cover them. Cover
+the pot closely, and place it in a slow oven to cook for six to eight
+hours.
+
+For a puree, boil the beans until tender; mash them through a colander.
+Season with butter, salt, and pepper; and add enough cream or stock to
+make them the right consistency. This is called "Puree Bretonne." To use
+it for a garnish, press it through a pastry bag into forms like potato
+roses (see page 202), or put it into small fontage cups (see page 300),
+or on thin pieces of toast the size of a silver dollar. To make
+croquettes add a beaten egg to the puree, form it into small croquettes,
+roll them in egg and crumbs, and fry in hot fat.
+
+
+=BEETS=
+
+Wash beets well, but do not break the skin, or they will lose their
+color in boiling. Cook for one hour if young, for two to three hours if
+old. When done throw them into cold water, and remove the skins. Season
+with butter, salt, and pepper. Serve them whole if small; cut into
+slices if large.
+
+
+=SUMMER SQUASH=
+
+Wash; cut into small pieces; cook in salted boiling water for twenty
+minutes, or until tender. Drain thoroughly; mash, and press out all the
+water. Season with butter, pepper, salt, and cream if convenient.
+
+
+=PARSNIPS=
+
+Boil the parsnips one hour, or until tender; throw them in cold water,
+and remove the skins. Cut them in slices lengthwise one quarter of an
+inch thick. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Dip in melted butter; then
+roll in flour, and saute on both sides until browned. Or mash the boiled
+parsnips; season, and stir into them one tablespoonful of flour and one
+egg to bind them; form into small cakes, and saute in drippings until
+browned on both sides.
+
+
+=CUCUMBERS=
+
+BOILED, STUFFED
+
+Boiled: Peel the cucumbers, and cut them lengthwise into quarters. Boil
+them in salted water until tender. Make a white sauce (page 277), using
+cream instead of milk, if convenient. Place the well-drained cucumbers
+in the sauce, to be heated through; then sprinkle with chopped parsley,
+and serve.
+
+Stuffed: Select large cucumbers of uniform size. Cut them in two
+lengthwise. With a spoon remove carefully the seeds, and fill the place
+with a stuffing made of equal parts of minced chicken, or any meat, and
+soft crumbs, seasoned, and moistened with one egg and a little stock.
+Round it over the top, and sprinkle with crumbs. Place the pieces in a
+pan with enough stock to cover the pan one half inch deep. Cook in a
+moderate oven one hour, or until the cucumbers are tender; replenish the
+stock in the pan if necessary. Remove them carefully to a hot dish.
+Thicken the gravy in the pan with a little cornstarch, and pour it
+around, not over them. This dish can be served as an entree.
+
+
+=LETTUCE STEWED=
+
+Wash the lettuce carefully to remove the dust and any insects. Take off
+the wilted leaves, and cut the root even with the head. Tie the top
+together. Lay the heads side by side in a baking-pan; add enough stock
+to cover the pan one and a half inches deep. Cover, and place in a
+moderate oven to simmer for one half hour, or until the lettuce is soft;
+renew the stock if necessary. Lift the lettuce out with a fork, putting
+it under the middle; let it drain, and lay it double, as it will be over
+the fork, in a row on a hot dish. Season the gravy in the pan with
+butter, salt, and pepper; thicken it with cornstarch, or with a beaten
+egg, and serve it with the lettuce.
+
+
+=ONIONS=
+
+Put them in salted boiling water, and cook until tender; drain, and pour
+over them a white sauce, or melted butter, pepper, and salt. If browned
+onions are wanted for garnishing place them, after they are boiled
+tender, in a pan; sprinkle with salt, pepper, and a little sugar; and
+put them in a hot oven to brown.
+
+
+=STUFFED SPANISH ONIONS=
+
+Peel the onions. Scoop out from the top a portion of the center. Parboil
+them for five minutes, and turn them upside down to drain. Fill them
+with a stuffing made of equal parts of minced chicken, or meat, and soft
+bread-crumbs, chop fine the onion taken from the center, and add it to
+the mixture. Season it with salt and pepper, and moisten it with melted
+butter. Fill the onions heaping full, and sprinkle the tops with crumbs.
+Place them in a pan with an inch of water; cover, and let cook in an
+oven for an hour, or until tender, but not so long as to lose shape.
+Take off the cover the last five minutes, so they will brown very
+slightly.
+
+
+=CORN ON THE EAR=
+
+Strip off the husk and silk. Put into boiling water; cover, and boil ten
+to fifteen minutes. Do not salt the water, as it hardens the hull.
+
+
+=CORN MOCK OYSTERS=
+
+Cut down through the center of the grains, each row of green corn on the
+ear and with the back of a knife press out the pulp, leaving the hulls
+on the ear. To a pint of the pulp add two beaten eggs, one teaspoonful
+each of butter and salt, a dash of pepper, and enough flour to bind it.
+Roll it into small cakes, and saute them in butter; or it may be dropped
+from a spoon into hot fat, making fritters. These may be made of canned
+corn, in which case use a little milk and sugar.
+
+
+=CANNED CORN=
+
+Turn it into a sieve, and let a little water run over it from the
+faucet. Put it into a shallow baking dish; add to one canful of corn one
+tablespoonful of butter, one half cupful of cream or milk, one half
+teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of pepper. Place in the oven to brown
+the top, and serve in the same dish.
+
+
+=SUCCOTASH=
+
+Mix equal parts of corn, cut from the ear, and any kind of beans; boil
+them separately; then stir them lightly together, and season with
+butter, salt, and pepper and add a little cream if convenient.
+
+
+=ARTICHOKES=
+
+Cut the stems off even with the leaves; remove the hardest bottom
+leaves, and cut off the top ones straight across, leaving an opening.
+Take out the inside, or choke. Wash well, and place upside down to
+drain. Put them into boiling water for half an hour, or until the leaves
+pull out easily; drain well, and serve on a napkin. They should be cut
+with a sharp knife into halves or quarters, and served with white,
+Bechamel, or Hollandaise sauce. The bottom and the base of the leaves
+only are eatable.
+
+
+=ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS=
+
+Remove all the leaves and choke. Trim the bottoms into good shape. Boil
+them in salted water until tender. Serve with Bechamel or Hollandaise
+sauce. Or cut the leaves close to the bottom, and divide it into
+quarters. Cook, and serve the same way.
+
+Canned artichoke bottoms can be procured, which are very good.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+FARINACEOUS FOODS USED AS VEGETABLES
+
+
+RECEIPTS FOR MACARONI AND CEREALS
+
+
+=TO BOIL RICE=
+
+Wash the rice well, and drain it. It must be washed in several waters,
+and until the floury coating, which is usually on rice, is all removed.
+This flour makes it pasty, and holds the grains together. Have a large
+saucepan of salted boiling water. Place it on the hottest part of the
+range, so it will boil violently. Sprinkle in the rice slowly, so as not
+to stop the boiling, and let it cook for fifteen to twenty minutes
+uncovered. At the end of fifteen minutes take out a few grains. If they
+are soft when pressed between the fingers, they are done. Then drain off
+every drop of water; sprinkle with salt; cover the pot with a napkin,
+using one thickness only--and set it on the side of the range to steam
+and become perfectly dry. Or the rice may be turned into a colander to
+drain, then placed in the open oven to dry. Use a large amount of water
+in proportion to the rice. Have it violently agitated all the time to
+keep the grains separated. Do not cook it too long, and do not stir or
+touch it while cooking. The cloth will not prevent the moisture
+escaping, and will help to keep it warm while it is drying. If these
+simple rules are observed, each grain will be separate and dry. Do not
+cover the dish in which it is served. Rice cooked in this way can be
+served in the place of potatoes.
+
+
+=RICE AND TOMATO=
+
+To a cupful of boiled rice add a half cupful of strained tomato sauce,
+which has been well seasoned with butter, salt, pepper, and bay-leaf.
+Toss them together, or mix lightly with a fork so as not to mash the
+grains. Serve as a vegetable.
+
+
+=PARCHED RICE=
+
+Boil rice as directed above, so each grain will be separate. Let it get
+cold, then separate the grains lightly with a fork on a flat dish. Put
+into a frying-pan just enough butter to cover the bottom of the pan;
+when it is hot add a little of the rice at a time, and saute it to a
+delicate color. Shake the pan constantly to keep the grains separated.
+Remove the rice as it is done, and spread on a paper to dry in an open
+oven. The rice should not be greasy when served. This makes a good rice
+dish to serve as a vegetable with broiled meats.
+
+
+=FARINA BALLS=
+
+ 1/2 cupful of farina.
+ 2 cupfuls of milk.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of salt.
+ Dash of cayenne.
+ 5 drops of onion juice.
+ Yolk of 1 egg.
+
+Cook the milk and farina in a double boiler for twenty to thirty
+minutes. Wet the farina with a little cold milk before stirring it into
+the boiling milk, so it will be smooth; add the salt, and cook to
+stiffness, or until the milk has evaporated, then add the cayenne, onion
+juice, and beaten yolk of egg. Stir well to mix, and to cook the egg;
+pour it onto a dish. When cold roll it into balls one inch in diameter;
+roll the balls in crumbs, then in egg (the white and yolk with one
+tablespoonful of water, beaten only enough to break), and again in white
+crumbs. Fry them in hot fat for one minute, or to a light amber color.
+Be sure the balls are completely coated with egg and crumbs, or they
+will break in frying. Any cold cereals can be used in this way. They
+make a very pretty dish. Serve on a napkin, or to garnish a meat dish.
+
+[Illustration: FARINA BALLS. (SEE PAGE 223.)]
+
+
+=FRIED HOMINY=
+
+Cut cold boiled hominy into slices one half inch thick, then into pieces
+of uniform size. Roll in flour, and saute on both sides, or dip them in
+egg and crumbs, and fry in hot fat.
+
+
+=FRIED CORN MUSH=
+
+Pour well-boiled cornmeal mush (page 228) into a bread-tin or dish with
+straight sides, so it will cut in even slices. Make the mush the day
+before it is to be used, so it will have time to harden. Cut it in
+pieces one half inch thick, and into any shape desired, but have the
+pieces uniform. Roll each one in egg and flour, and fry in hot fat; or
+they may be rolled in milk, then in flour, and sauted in butter. They
+should have a crust on both sides. It is good served as a vegetable with
+game, or as a breakfast dish with or without syrup.
+
+
+
+MACARONI
+
+ [Sidenote: General directions.]
+
+The best macaroni is smooth, has a fine, close grain and clear
+yellow color. It is made of flour and water only, and when
+cooked needs the seasoning of a good sauce. It is generally
+mixed with cheese, but tomato, cream, or Bechamel sauces make
+at good combination. When macaroni is to be boiled in long
+pieces to be used for timbales, hold the pieces in a bunch,
+and lower them gradually into hot water. They will quickly
+soften, and can be turned into a circle in the saucepan. They
+must be removed when tender, and not cooked until they lose
+form. When done drain off the hot water, and pour on cold
+water for a few minutes; then lay them straight on a cloth.
+
+[Illustration: BEAN POT.]
+
+
+
+SPAGHETTI
+
+ [Sidenote: How to serve.]
+
+Spaghetti is a small and more delicate form of macaroni. It
+is boiled until tender in salted water and is combined with
+cheese and with sauces the same as macaroni, and is usually
+left long. It makes a good garnish.
+
+
+=BAKED MACARONI, WITH CHEESE=
+
+Take as much macaroni as will half fill the dish in which it is to be
+served. Break it into pieces two and a half to three inches long. Put it
+into salted boiling water, and boil twelve to fifteen minutes, or until
+the macaroni is perfectly soft. Shake the saucepan frequently to prevent
+the macaroni from adhering to the bottom. Turn it into a colander to
+drain; then put it into a pudding-dish with butter, salt, and grated
+cheese. If much cheese is liked, it may be put into the dish in two
+layers, alternating the seasoning with the macaroni. Cover it with milk,
+and bake until the milk is absorbed and the top browned. A tablespoonful
+or more of melted butter should be used to a half pound of macaroni. The
+macaroni called "Mezzani," which is a name designating size, not
+quality, is the preferable kind for macaroni dishes made with cheese.
+
+
+=MACARONI AU GRATIN=
+
+Boil the macaroni as directed above. Drain it in a colander; then return
+it to the saucepan with butter and grated cheese. Toss over the fire
+until the butter is absorbed and the cheese melted. Serve at once before
+the cheese has time to harden.
+
+A mixture of Parmesan and of Swiss cheese is often liked; the former
+strings when melted; the latter becomes liquid.
+
+
+=MACARONI WITH TOMATO OR OTHER SAUCES=
+
+Boil the macaroni as directed above; drain it in a colander; then return
+it to the saucepan, and mix it with tomato sauce, with cream sauce, or
+with Bechamel sauce; toss until they are well mixed; serve in a
+vegetable dish or as a garnish.
+
+
+=MACARONI WITH MINCED MEAT=
+
+Mix boiled macaroni with minced chicken or any meat, and moisten with
+white or brown sauce. The meat should be minced very fine. This makes a
+good luncheon dish.
+
+
+=RECEIPT FOR MACARONI=
+
+(FROM MRS. MASPERO.)
+
+Put the macaroni into salted boiling water, and cook it twelve to
+fifteen minutes, or until it is tender. Do not let the water boil
+violently, as this breaks the macaroni. When it is cooked, drain off all
+the water, and cover the hot macaroni with grated cheese (Parmesan and
+Gruyere mixed). With two forks mix lightly the cheese with the macaroni.
+Turn it into the hot serving-dish, and pour over it the sauce given
+below. Serve at once.
+
+
+=SAUCE FOR MACARONI, FOR RISSOTTO, AND FOR POLENTA=
+
+Put into a saucepan one and a half tablespoonfuls of butter. Add a small
+onion chopped fine and a half clove of garlic. Cook until all are
+browned; then add three tablespoonfuls of water in which the macaroni
+was boiled, and a teaspoonful of beef extract. Add, also, three or four
+soaked mushrooms, and let it simmer for five minutes.
+
+This amount of sauce is enough for a pound of macaroni.
+
+The mushrooms given in this receipt are the dried cepes, which can be
+bought by the pound at Italian groceries. They are the best, after the
+fresh mushrooms, to use for sauces. They should not be cooked longer
+than five minutes to give their best flavor.
+
+
+=SAUCE FOR MACARONI No. 2=
+
+(MRS. MASPERO.)
+
+Make a sauce as directed for No. 1, using in place of the beef extract a
+cupful of chopped round of beef, and a cupful of tomatoes.
+
+
+=SAUCE FOR MACARONI No. 3=
+
+(MRS. MASPERO.)
+
+When roasting an upper round of beef stick into it six cloves, a clove
+of garlic, and a few lardoons of pork. Sprinkle it well with salt and
+pepper. After the beef is roasted, turn the juice from the pan over the
+macaroni and cheese.
+
+
+=POLENTA=
+
+(MRS. MASPERO.)
+
+Make a cornmeal mush; boil it for a long time, until it is firm and
+hard. Cut it in slices or leave it in one piece. Pour over it sauce No.
+1 given above.
+
+
+=RISSOTTO=
+
+(MRS. MASPERO.)
+
+Boil rice until tender, but not soft. The Italian rice must be used, as
+it does not get soft like the Carolina rice; when the rice is done,
+drain off the water and steam it dry; then add, while the rice is still
+on the fire, some mixed grated Parmesan and Swiss cheese. Turn them
+together lightly until the cheese has softened, then put it into the hot
+serving-dish, and cover with sauce No. 1 given above.
+
+
+
+CEREALS
+
+
+OATMEAL PORRIDGE
+
+Oatmeal is ground in different grades of coarseness, and some
+brands are partly cooked before they are put up for sale;
+therefore the time for cooking varies, and it is better to
+observe the directions given on the packages. Oatmeal requires
+to be cooked until very soft, but should not be mushy. The
+ordinary rule is to put a cupful of meal into a quart of
+salted boiling water (a teaspoonful of salt), and let it cook
+in double boiler the required time. It is well to keep the pan
+covered until the oatmeal is cooked, then remove the cover and
+let the moisture evaporate until the oatmeal is of the right
+consistency. It should be moist enough to drop but not run
+from the spoon. It should be lightly stirred occasionally to
+prevent its sticking to the pan, but carefully so as not to
+break the grains.
+
+If carefully cooked, the sides of the pan will not be
+covered with burned oatmeal, and so wasted.
+
+Oatmeal is very good cold, and in summer is better served in
+that way. It can be turned into fancy molds or into small cups
+to cool, and will then hold the form and make an ornamental
+dish.
+
+
+
+=CRACKED WHEAT=
+
+Add to three cupfuls of water a half teaspoonful of salt; when it boils
+add a half cupful of cracked wheat, and let it cook uncovered until the
+water is nearly evaporated; then add three cupfuls of hot milk; cover
+and cook until the wheat is soft; then uncover and cook to the right
+consistency. It should be quite moist. Stir it carefully from time to
+time while it is cooking, but with care not to break the grains.
+
+Turn into molds to harden, and serve cold with sugar and milk.
+
+
+=CORNMEAL MUSH=
+
+Sprinkle with the hand a pint of cornmeal into rapidly boiling salted
+water, stirring all the time. Cook for half an hour; or mix the cornmeal
+with a pint of milk and teaspoonful of salt and turn it slowly into a
+quart of boiling water; cook for half an hour, stirring constantly. This
+may be eaten cold or hot, with milk, with butter and sugar, or with
+syrup. When cold it can be cut into slices and browned on both sides in
+a saute-pan, and used as a vegetable dish, or as a breakfast dish, and
+may be eaten with syrup.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+A GROUP OF RECEIPTS FROM A NEW ENGLAND KITCHEN
+
+(SUPPLIED BY SUSAN COOLIDGE)
+
+
+Many of the receipts in this little "group" have never
+before appeared in print. They are copies from old
+grandmother and great-grandmother receipt-books, tested by
+generations of use, and become, at this time, traditional in
+the families to which they belong. They are now given to the
+public as examples of the simple but dainty cooking of a
+by-gone day, which, while differing in many points from the
+methods of our own time, in its way is no less delicious.
+
+
+=SPLIT PEA SOUP=
+
+Soak one quart of split peas in lukewarm water for three hours. Pour off
+the water and boil the peas in three and a half quarts of salted water
+till they are thoroughly soft. Rub through a colander, and throw away
+whatever does not pass through. This will keep several days.
+
+Take out the quantity needed for dinner (allowing a generous quart to
+three persons); boil in it a small piece of pork, onion, and a little
+white pepper and salt; strain and serve very hot, with small cubes of
+fried bread dropped into the tureen.
+
+
+=BLACK BEAN SOUP=
+
+ 1 quart of black beans.
+ 4 quarts of water.
+ The bone of a boiled ham.
+ 6 cloves.
+ 4 peppercorns.
+
+Boil on the back of the range for twelve hours; rub through a colander
+and set away to cool.
+
+This should make soup for two dinners for a family of six. When served,
+add a glass of wine to each tureenful, two or three slices of lemon, and
+cubes of bread fried in butter.
+
+
+=CLAM SOUP=
+
+Boil a quart of clams in their own liquor till they are tender; then
+chop them fine and return to the broth.
+
+Stir together until smooth two tablespoonfuls of butter and one and a
+half of flour, and with them thicken the soup. Add very carefully a pint
+of milk, stirring to avoid curdling, and add two tablespoonfuls of
+butter, with pepper and salt, after taking the mixture from the fire.
+
+
+=CLAM CHOWDER=
+
+Cut one half pound of salt pork into slices, and fry them brown; chop
+two small onions, and cook them with the pork. Stew separately a quart
+of tomatoes, canned or fresh, and a quart of sliced potatoes. When all
+are done, put them together with one quart of clams and their juice. Add
+three pints of water, salt, pepper, a little thyme, a very little flour
+for thickening, and a handful of small whole crackers. Stew all together
+for half an hour, and serve very hot.
+
+
+=FISH CHOWDER=
+
+Three pounds of fresh codfish well boiled and the bones carefully
+removed. Two onions chopped fine and fried with half a pound of salt
+pork, cut into small dice. Six potatoes cut small, a pint of water, a
+little salt and white pepper. Stew for twenty minutes, thicken slightly
+with a little flour; add a pint and a half of milk, and let all boil up
+once, stirring thoroughly. Put a handful of oyster crackers into a hot
+tureen, and pour the mixture over them.
+
+
+=BROWNED OYSTERS=
+
+Take thirty large oysters (about three pints); wash them in their own
+liquor. Add to one pint of milk three tablespoonfuls of the oyster
+liquor, well strained, a very little mace, and a bit of butter about the
+size of an English walnut, and make the mixture scalding hot. Rub two
+tablespoonfuls of flour perfectly smooth with a little of the milk; pour
+in and stir until the whole is thick. Then drop in the oysters; cook
+five minutes or so, till they are well plumped out, and add a little
+salt, white pepper, and a tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce. Serve
+on a platter on slices of buttered toast.
+
+
+=FISH AND OYSTERS=
+
+Make a pint or more of white sauce, with flour, butter, and hot milk,
+carefully stirred till smooth and thick. Pick to fine bits two quarts of
+cold boiled codfish, and add one pint of oysters chopped fine. Fill a
+well-buttered pudding-dish with alternate layers of the fish and oysters
+and white sauce, sprinkling a little salt over the layers of cod. Cover
+the top of the dish with fine bread-crumbs and small bits of butter;
+baste with a little cold water, and bake till the top is browned.
+
+
+=SCALLOPED OYSTERS=
+
+Three pints of oysters; a quart of sifted bread-crumbs. Place a layer of
+crumbs in the bottom of a rather deep baking-dish, then a layer of
+oysters, and sprinkle with salt and white pepper. Repeat the process
+till the dish is filled. Cover the top with crumbs and a layer of soft
+bread broken into bits and placed round the edge of a circle of small
+oyster crackers. Wet the whole with half a pint of soup stock and a
+quarter of a cup of oyster liquor. Cover the top generously with butter
+cut into fine bits. Pour over the whole a glass of sherry, and bake an
+hour.
+
+
+=PICKLED OYSTERS=
+
+Scald the oysters in their own liquor, with a little water added, till
+they are plump. Skim them out, and drop into a bowl of cold water; rinse
+well and put them in glass jars.
+
+Scald an equal quantity of the liquor and vinegar with whole peppers,
+mace, and salt, and when perfectly cold fill the jars up with it. These
+will keep two or three weeks.
+
+
+=FRICASSEED OYSTERS=
+
+Drain a quart of large oysters from their liquor, and place them in a
+covered saucepan with a quarter of a pound of good butter. Set them on
+the back of the range, and let them simmer gently till the oysters are
+well plumped out.
+
+Put the oyster liquor in another saucepan with three tablespoonfuls of
+powdered cracker, and a little pepper. When the oysters are done, remove
+them from the butter with a fork, and place them on toasted crackers on
+a hot platter. Add the butter in which they have been cooked to the
+oyster broth. Let it boil up once. Stir in half a pint of cream, and
+pour over the oysters.
+
+
+=STEWED LOBSTER=
+
+Cut a boiled lobster weighing four pounds into small pieces. Thicken a
+half pint of milk with a teaspoonful of flour and a tablespoonful of
+butter; add a teaspoonful of dry mustard, and a little salt and pepper.
+Stew the lobster in this till it is quite tender, and lastly add a
+tablespoonful of vinegar.
+
+
+=FISH BALLS=
+
+MAINE
+
+Soak over night three quarters of a pound of boneless codfish.
+
+In the morning shred the fish (uncooked) very carefully with a silver
+fork till it is fine. Add to it a dozen potatoes of medium size, freshly
+boiled, mashed, and rubbed through a sieve, two beaten eggs, a
+tablespoonful of butter, a little hot milk or cream, and a sprinkling of
+white pepper.
+
+Mold into round balls, and drop into very hot fat.
+
+
+=CODFISH AND CREAM=
+
+Shred two thirds of a bowlful of salt codfish, wash it several times
+with fresh water, drain off the water, and put it into a saucepan with a
+pint of sweet cream and half a pint of sweet milk. Let it come nearly,
+but not quite, to the boiling point. Beat together one egg, a
+tablespoonful of flour, and two tablespoonfuls of sweet milk; add it to
+the fish, and stir continually until it is done. Put the mixture in a
+hot dish, and add a large spoonful of butter, stirring it thoroughly.
+
+
+=OYSTERS ON A CHAFING-DISH=
+
+Put into the chafing-dish four or five tablespoonfuls of the oyster
+liquor; add salt, white pepper, and a tablespoonful of butter, and stir
+till it is scalding hot. Drop the oysters in, a dozen at a time, and
+cook till they are plump and tender; then skim out and place on slices
+of hot buttered toast; add more oysters as required.
+
+
+=PILAU=
+
+One half pint of rice; one pint of stock; one half can of tomato. Soak
+the rice in cold water for an hour. Pour off the water, and put the
+rice, with the stock and one quarter of a white onion, in a double
+boiler. Stew till the rice absorbs the stock.
+
+Stew the tomato thoroughly, and season with butter, salt, and pepper.
+Mix it with the rice.
+
+Saute in butter to a light color jointed chicken, slightly parboiled, or
+slices of cold cooked chicken or turkey. Make a hole in the rice and
+tomato, put in the chicken and an ounce of butter, and stew all together
+for twenty minutes. Serve on a platter in a smooth mound, the red rice
+surrounding the fowl.
+
+
+=SPICED SHAD=
+
+Scale the fish, cut off the heads and tails, and divide them into four
+pieces.
+
+Chop four or five small onions, and sprinkle a layer on the bottom of a
+stone jar; on this place a layer of fish, packing closely. Spice with
+black and cayenne pepper, cloves, allspice, whole peppers, and a little
+more onion. Then add another layer of fish, and so on till the jar is
+full. Arrange the roe on top, spice highly, and fill the jar with the
+strongest vinegar procurable. Place thick folds of paper on the jar
+under the cover, and bake for twelve hours. The vinegar will dissolve
+the bones, and the fish can be sliced for a tea-table relish.
+
+
+=PORK AND BEANS=
+
+NEW HAMPSHIRE
+
+Soak a pint of small white beans over night.
+
+In the morning pour off the water, pour on a pint of cold water, and set
+at the back of the range to simmer slowly for three quarters of an hour.
+
+Place the beans in a bean-pot with half a pound of scored salt pork in
+the middle, half a teaspoonful of dry mustard, salt, white pepper, and a
+half pint of white sugar. Add water from time to time, as it grows dry,
+and bake twelve hours.
+
+
+=A RECHAUFFE OF COLD MUTTON=
+
+Have the mutton cut very neatly and carefully into slices.
+
+Add to a half pint of gravy or stock a little white pepper, a quarter of
+a teaspoonful of dry mustard, a quarter of a teaspoonful of curry
+powder, and three large tablespoonfuls of currant jelly. When this is
+scalding hot, add a glass of sherry. Have ready a hot platter with
+slices of toast. Put the sliced mutton into the sauce long enough to
+heat through, but not to cook for a moment. Take the slices out with a
+fork, and place them on the toast; last of all pour the boiling gravy
+over all, and serve instantly. This preparation will be found
+delicious--it robs the second-day-of-the-mutton of its terrors.
+
+
+=CORNED BEEF=
+
+If a round of corned beef is to be eaten cold, as is often the case, it
+should be carefully and slowly boiled, and left in the pot till the next
+day. The soaking in the water in which it has been boiled has the
+effect of making the beef delightfully delicate and tender, and a little
+less salt in its flavor. No one who has tried this method will be
+content with any other.
+
+If the beef is to be served hot, what is left can be reheated, and left
+to cool for the next day's use in the liquor.
+
+
+=A BEEFSTEAK PIE=
+
+CONNECTICUT
+
+Three pounds of lean rump steak cut thick. Cut it into strips three
+inches long, and an inch wide. Put it to stew in enough boiling water to
+not quite cover the meat, and simmer very slowly for half an hour. Add a
+tablespoonful of parsley chopped fine, a large teaspoonful of sweet
+thyme, half a teaspoonful of white pepper, and a quarter of a pint of
+sliced onions. Stew together till the meat is perfectly tender. Rub
+smooth a tablespoonful of corn starch, and stir it with the gravy until
+it becomes of the consistency of cream; add a little salt and a
+tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce. Place the meat in a deep
+pudding-dish with alternate layers of cold ham sliced thin and sliced
+hard-boiled eggs--seven or eight eggs will be required. Add a little
+grated nutmeg; cover with paste, and bake half an hour.
+
+
+=EASY CHICKEN SALAD=
+
+Take a two-pound can of Richardson & Robbins's compressed chicken;
+remove the skin, and cut the chicken into small dice.
+
+Add twice as much celery cut into small pieces, salt to taste, and
+marinate the whole with a mixture of three tablespoonfuls of vinegar to
+nine of oil. Have it very cold, and just before serving pour over it a
+Mayonnaise made by the following receipt. This quantity is enough for
+twenty-five persons.
+
+
+=CREAM DRESSING=
+
+Rub together in a china bowl a large tablespoonful of butter, four
+tablespoonfuls of vinegar, a half teaspoonful of salt, and a half
+teaspoonful of dry mustard.
+
+Place the bowl in a saucepan full of boiling water over a spirit lamp,
+or on the range. Stir the mixture carefully till very hot, to prevent
+the butter from oiling. When hot add two well-beaten eggs; stir till
+thick, then pour in a half pint of cream, stir, remove from the fire,
+and allow it to get perfectly cold.
+
+Cold sweet-breads are excellent served with this cream Mayonnaise.
+
+
+=MACARONI A L'ALBI=
+
+Break a dozen stems of large macaroni into pieces four inches long, and
+stew carefully, till tender, in consomme or white soup stock.
+
+Place in a dish layers of the macaroni sprinkled with salt, pepper, and
+of Gruyere cheese grated fine. Cover the top with a thick layer of
+grated cheese, on that a layer of fine bread-crumbs, and on that bits of
+butter cut fine. Bake just long enough to brown the top thoroughly.
+
+
+=CORN PUDDING=
+
+Scrape with a knife two dozen ears of green corn, cutting each row
+through the middle. Add one pint of milk, half a pound of butter, three
+eggs, the whites and yolks beaten separately, a little salt, and white
+pepper. Stir the yolks into the milk and corn, pour into a baking-dish,
+stir in the whites, and bake an hour and a half.
+
+
+=THIN INDIAN BREAD=
+
+VERMONT
+
+Mix together two cupfuls of meal, a tablespoonful of lard, and a
+teaspoonful of salt; scald with boiling water. Thin it with a large
+cupful of cold milk and two well-beaten eggs. Spread thin on a large
+buttered pan, and bake till brown in an oven only moderately hot.
+
+
+=GRAHAM GEMS=
+
+ One pint of milk.
+ One pint of graham flour.
+
+Place on top of the range a frame of "iron-clad" gem-pans to get very
+hot. Stir the milk and meal together lightly, not trying to make the
+batter very smooth. Drop a bit of butter into each hot pan, and while it
+sizzles pour in the batter, and instantly set in the oven; bake twenty
+minutes. The heat raises the batter to lightness, and the butter gives a
+savory crust to the little cakes.
+
+
+=COLONIAL HOE-CAKES=
+
+CONNECTICUT
+
+Stir Indian meal and water together into a thickish paste. Spread
+thickly on a new wooden spade, or on the top of a new barrel, and set on
+end before an open fire to slowly toast, turning the cake when the outer
+side is brown. No preparation of Indian meal has quite the flavor of
+this.
+
+
+=RHODE ISLAND JOHNNY-CAKE=
+
+For this, Rhode Island meal, ground between stones, is required. Take
+one pint of meal and one teaspoonful of salt, and scald thoroughly with
+boiling water till it is a stiff, smooth batter. Thin with cold milk
+till about the consistency of sponge-cake batter, and drop in
+tablespoonfuls on a hot buttered griddle. When the under side is brown,
+turn the cakes and brown the other side. Eat with butter.
+
+
+=BOSTON BROWN BREAD=
+
+One pint of yellow cornmeal, scalded with a small quantity of boiling
+water, just enough to wet it thoroughly. Let it stand ten minutes. Then
+add enough cold water to make a soft batter. Add one quarter pint of
+brewer's yeast, one quarter pint of molasses, one pint of rye meal, one
+half teaspoonful of salt, and one saltspoonful of soda. Beat it well
+together, and set it to rise over night. When light, stir it
+thoroughly, put it into a buttered tin, sprinkle a little flour over the
+top, and set it to rise again. Bake about two hours. It is excellent cut
+into slices and toasted.
+
+
+=DABS=
+
+CONNECTICUT
+
+A pint of cornmeal, thoroughly scalded with hot water. Rub into it a
+dessertspoonful of butter, two eggs beaten very light, a wineglassful of
+cream or milk, and a little salt. Butter a tin pan, and drop the mixture
+from a spoon upon it. Bake in a moderate oven.
+
+
+=CREAM OATMEAL=
+
+Boil oatmeal for an hour as for breakfast use. Rub it through a fine
+sieve, add a little milk, and cook it very slowly in a double boiler for
+half an hour longer. When perfectly smooth, add a little salt and cream.
+
+This is the most delicate preparation of oatmeal that an invalid can
+take.
+
+
+=ZEPHYRS=
+
+Prepare a thin mush of Indian meal, water, and salt, and boil till
+smooth. Drop this batter into iron-clad pans, made very hot and
+buttered, and bake till brown.
+
+
+=SQUASH PIES=
+
+Pare and cut into pieces a Hubbard squash, and steam it till, thoroughly
+soft; then rub it through a coarse sieve.
+
+To a quart of the squash, which should be as thick and dry as chestnuts
+when prepared for stuffing, add three quarters of a pint, heaping full,
+of granulated sugar, the peel and juice of a large lemon, half a nutmeg
+grated, a tablespoonful of powdered ginger, about as much powdered
+cinnamon, a small teaspoonful of salt, six drops of rose-water, half a
+pint of cream, and four beaten eggs. Stir thoroughly, and add about
+three pints of scalded milk. The mixture should be tasted, and a little
+more sugar, or lemon, or spice added if required.
+
+Line a deep tin pie-dish with paste, lay a narrow strip around the edge,
+and fill the dish with the mixture. Bake till the filling is set. This
+quantity will make four pies.
+
+
+=PUMPKIN PIES (About Four Pounds)=
+
+MASSACHUSETTS
+
+Pare a small pumpkin, about four pounds, and take out the seeds. Steam
+till soft, and strain through a colander.
+
+Beat in three eggs, three tablespoonfuls of molasses, two tablespoonfuls
+of ground cinnamon, one of ginger, two teaspoonfuls of salt, and two
+quarts of hot milk. If more sweetening is needed add a little sugar.
+Bake with an under crust only. This receipt will make five pies.
+
+
+=EASY PIE-CRUST=
+
+Three quarters of a pint of lard, three quarters of a pint of butter,
+three quarters of a pint of iced water with a teaspoonful of salt
+dissolved in it, a pint and a half of flour sifted twice through a fine
+sieve.
+
+Put the lard and flour into a bowl (leaving out a little flour for
+rolling), and very lightly rub them together with the tips of your
+fingers. Pour in the salted water, and stir with a knife till the flour
+and lard are well mixed. Pour out onto the paste-board (over which a
+very little flour should be sifted), and beat the mixture with a rolling
+pin, doubling and folding, and putting the dry particles in the middle,
+till the whole becomes a smooth, firm paste.
+
+Roll this into a narrow oblong, as far as possible rolling from you.
+Divide the butter, which should be very cold and hard, into three parts,
+and put one third on the paste with a knife, cutting it into little
+bits. Fold the sheet of paste over into a roll, and again roll out into
+an oblong. Add the second third of butter in the same way. Roll once
+more, put on the last third of butter, again fold into a roll, and cut
+the paste in two, putting one half on top of the other half.
+
+Cut portions off from the end of the double roll, and with them line the
+pie dishes, rolling them very thin. This quantity of paste will make
+four or five pies. Care should be taken not to increase the quantity of
+flour. The pie-crust will be found tender and delicate, though not so
+elegant as puff-paste; and to make it ready for use in the pie-dishes
+should not take more than a quarter of an hour.
+
+
+=A BOILED INDIAN PUDDING=
+
+CONNECTICUT
+
+ One quart of milk.
+ One pint of meal.
+ Five tablespoonfuls of West India molasses.
+ Two tablespoonfuls of suet chopped fine.
+
+Scald the milk, and pour it over the meal; add the other ingredients.
+Put the pudding into a mold or bag, and boil four hours.
+
+Hot maple molasses and butter are eaten with this pudding.
+
+
+=A BAKED INDIAN PUDDING=
+
+ Three and a half quarts of sweet milk.
+ Three heaping tablespoonfuls of cornmeal.
+ One half pint of molasses.
+ One teaspoonful of salt.
+ Ginger to taste.
+
+Boil one quart of the milk; add to it molasses, butter, salt, and spice,
+and lastly the meal stirred smooth with a little cold milk; scald the
+whole together, and turn into a well-buttered baking-dish. When it
+begins to crust over, stir it all up from the bottom, and add a pint of
+cold milk. Repeat the process every half hour, or oftener if the pudding
+browns too fast, till the five pints are used; then let it bake till
+done--six hours in all. Serve hot with a sauce of grated or granulated
+maple sugar stirred into rich cream, and kept very cold till needed.
+
+
+=ORANGE INDIAN PUDDING=
+
+CONNECTICUT
+
+Put four heaping tablespoonfuls of Indian meal in a bowl, and mix in
+half a pint of molasses and a teaspoonful of salt. Boil three pints of
+milk; pour it scalding hot on the meal, stirring carefully till
+perfectly smooth and free from lumps. Butter a deep pudding-dish; cover
+the bottom thickly with fragments of dried orange-peel; pour in the
+mixture, and, last of all, pour gently over the top a tumblerful of cold
+milk. Bake four hours and a half in a hot oven. Eat with thick cream.
+
+
+=BLUEBERRY PUDDING=
+
+RHODE ISLAND
+
+Line a deep pudding-dish with slices of buttered bread. Fill this with
+alternate layers of whortleberries or blueberries, and granulated sugar.
+Squeeze the juice of a lemon over the whole. Cover the top with slices
+of bread buttered on both sides. Place a plate over the dish, and bake
+for an hour and a half, setting the dish in a pan of hot water.
+
+Take the pudding from the oven, spread over the top a meringue of white
+of egg beaten lightly with sugar in the proportion of a tablespoonful of
+sugar to one egg, and return it to the oven just long enough to lightly
+brown the meringue. The pudding should be eaten hot with hard wine
+sauce.
+
+
+=A PEACH PUDDING=
+
+Line the bottom of a deep pudding-dish with thick slices of stale sponge
+cake soaked in sherry. Fill the dish with fresh peaches, sliced, and
+well sprinkled with sugar. Spread over the top a meringue similar to
+that described for whortleberry pudding, and leave it in the oven just
+long enough to brown.
+
+Set the dish on the ice, and serve very cold. It is eaten with cream.
+
+
+=CHERRY BREAD=
+
+Fill a deep pudding-dish with alternate layers of buttered bread and
+sour cherries, stoned, and stewed with sugar.
+
+Pack the dish in ice, and half freeze the mixture, which will become a
+semi-jelly. It is eaten with thick cream.
+
+
+=LEMON RICE PUDDING=
+
+Boil a half pint of rice in a quart of milk till very soft. Add to it
+while hot the yolks of three eggs, three large tablespoonfuls of sugar,
+the grated rind of two lemons, and a little salt. If too thick, add a
+little cold milk. It should be a little thicker than a boiled custard.
+Turn it into a pudding-dish.
+
+Beat the whites of the eggs very stiff with eight tablespoonfuls of
+sugar and the juice of the two lemons, and brown the top delicately in
+the oven. Set on ice and eat very cold.
+
+
+=BERMUDA PUDDING=
+
+Weigh two eggs, and allow the same weight in sugar and flour, and the
+weight of one egg in butter. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add
+the eggs beaten to a froth, and lastly the flour, in which half a
+teaspoonful of Royal Baking Powder has been mixed. Stir till perfectly
+smooth; then add a heaping tablespoonful of orange marmalade; pour into
+a buttered mold; cover with buttered paper, and steam gently for an hour
+and a half. Serve with wine sauce.
+
+
+=RICE AND ORANGE-MARMALADE PUDDING=
+
+Simmer a quarter of a pint of rice in a quart of milk till it is very
+soft and thick. Add a teaspoonful of salt, four tablespoonfuls of sugar,
+a little cream, and let all cool together a few minutes. Pour into a
+pudding-dish and bake till set.
+
+Spread over the pudding a thick layer of orange marmalade, and over that
+a meringue, and return to the oven till the top is lightly browned.
+Serve it cold.
+
+
+=MOLASSES PIE=
+
+This is a genuine New England dainty, dear to the hearts of children.
+Mix half a pint of the best molasses with a tablespoonful of flour, and
+add the juice of a large lemon, and the rind and pulp chopped fine. Bake
+with an under and an upper crust.
+
+
+=PRUNE JELLY, WITH ALMONDS=
+
+One pound of prunes. One half box of Coxe's gelatine. Soak the prunes
+over night, and stew till tender in the water in which they have soaked.
+Remove the stones, and sweeten to taste.
+
+Dissolve the gelatine in a little hot water, and add to the prunes while
+hot. Lastly, add the juice of a lemon and two tablespoonfuls of blanched
+almonds. Pour the jelly into molds and set it on the ice to harden. Eat
+with cream.
+
+
+=CLARIFIED APPLES=
+
+Melt two cupfuls of crushed sugar over the fire, adding a little water
+to keep it from burning, and dropping in a few bits of lemon-peel.
+
+Pare eight large greening apples, and slice them very thin. Have a
+saucepan full of boiling water ready, and into this put the apples and
+let them cook till they are parboiled, but not soft enough to break.
+Skim them out, and drop them into the boiling syrup, shaking them
+continually over a slow fire till they are done. If properly prepared
+the slices will be almost transparent.
+
+
+=LEMON ICE=
+
+One quart of milk. One tumblerful of sugar. Mix the two, and half freeze
+in an ice cream freezer. Then add the juice and pulp of four large
+lemons; stir thoroughly, and freeze firm. This is the simplest and
+cheapest of frozen preparations, and for use in the country, where
+materials are hard to come by, it is invaluable.
+
+
+=APPLE SAUCE=
+
+Pare, core, and quarter enough Baldwin or greening apples to fill a
+small stoneware jar. Add three quarters of a pint of sugar and a quarter
+of a pint of water; cover tightly. Set this in the oven of the range as
+soon as the last meal of the day--dinner or supper, as it may be--is
+served, and let it remain till breakfast next morning. The long, slow
+cooking gives the apples a deep red color and a flavor quite different
+from other preparations.
+
+
+=STEWED PEARS=
+
+Prick hard baking pears with a fork in half a dozen places, and with
+them fill a small stoneware jar. Add half a pint of sugar, half a pint
+of water, and a heaping teaspoonful of molasses. Cover tightly, and bake
+all night as directed above.
+
+
+=CRANBERRY JELLY=
+
+Stew four quarts of cranberries in a porcelain kettle with water enough
+to float them, till they are thoroughly soft and broken. Rub them
+through a coarse sieve. Allow to each pint of the marmalade-like mixture
+resulting a pound of sugar. Put the fruit on the fire till it boils
+hard. Stir in the sugar, and as soon as it jellies, which will be in a
+few minutes, remove from the fire and pour into glasses. The advantage
+of this preparation of cranberries is that it keeps perfectly for six
+weeks or two months, losing nothing in quality or flavor during the
+time.
+
+
+=HARTFORD ELECTION CAKE=
+
+ 4-1/2 pounds of flour.
+ 2-1/2 pounds of sugar.
+ 2-1/4 pounds of butter.
+ 1/2 ounce of nutmeg.
+ 1/2 pound of sliced citron.
+ 1/2 ounce of mace.
+ A cupful of brandy and sherry mixed.
+ 2 pounds of raisins.
+ 4 eggs.
+
+At noon, or early in the afternoon, begin making this cake. Cream the
+butter and sugar, add a quart of lukewarm milk, half of the flour, and
+either a half pint of brewer's yeast or a cake and a half of compressed
+yeast. Beat the mixture well, cover the pan with a thick towel, and set
+it in a warm place to rise.
+
+At night, when it is very light, add the flour, spices, and eggs. Set
+the pan in a moderately warm place for a second rising. Early next
+morning add the fruit, the wine, the grated peel of a lemon, and half a
+teaspoonful of extract of rose. Pour into pans lined with buttered
+paper. Let them stand an hour or until light. This receipt makes seven
+loaves, which require to bake from an hour to an hour and a half,
+according to oven.
+
+A half teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a little warm water, and stirred
+into the batter just before it is put into the pans, is an improvement.
+
+
+=INSTANTANEOUS FROSTING=
+
+To the white of an unbeaten egg add a cupful and a quarter of pulverized
+sugar, and stir until smooth. Add three drops of rose-water, ten of
+vanilla, and the juice of half a lemon. It will at once become very
+white, and will harden in five or six minutes.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+PART I
+
+DISTINCTIVELY SOUTHERN DISHES
+
+
+ [Sidenote: The Cornmeal.]
+
+ [Sidenote: The Hoe.]
+
+The dishes in which the South excel, and which may be called
+distinctive to that section, are those made of cornmeal, of
+gumbo or okra, and those seasoned with sassafras powder or
+twigs. The cornmeal used in the South is white and coarse-grained
+(it is called there water-ground), and gives quite a different
+result from that which is finer in grain and yellow in color,
+which is usually sold at the North. The hoe used for baking
+corn-cakes is an article made for the purpose, and not the
+garden implement usually associated with the name.
+
+
+
+=PONE=
+
+Sift a quart of white cornmeal, add a teaspoonful of salt; pour on
+enough cold water to make a mixture which will squeeze easily through
+the fingers. Work it to a soft dough. Mold it into oblong cakes an inch
+thick at the ends, and a little thicker in the center. Slap them down on
+the pan, and press them a little. These cakes, they say, must show the
+marks of the fingers. The pan must be hot, and sprinkled with the bran
+sifted from the meal. Bake in a hot oven for about twenty minutes.
+
+
+=HOE-CAKE No. 1=
+
+Make the same mixture as for pone. Spread it on the greased hoe, or a
+griddle, making a round cake one quarter inch thick. Bake it on the top
+of the range, turning and baking it brown on both sides.
+
+
+=HOE-CAKE No. 2=
+
+Use for these cakes, if possible, coarse water-ground white meal. Add to
+a quart of meal a teaspoonful of salt; pour over it enough boiling water
+to make it a soft dough; add also a little milk to make it brown better.
+Let it stand an hour or longer, then work it together with the hand.
+Form it into little cakes an inch thick, and bake on a greased griddle
+till browned on both sides. Serve very hot. They are split and spread
+with butter when eaten.
+
+
+=KENTUCKY CORN DODGERS=
+
+Mix a teaspoonful of salt with a cupful of white cornmeal. Scald it with
+just enough boiling water to dampen it; then add enough cold milk to
+enable you to mold it. Stir it well together, and form it into cakes
+three quarters of an inch thick in the middle and oblong in shape. Use a
+tablespoonful of dough for each cake. Bake them on a greased pan in a
+hot oven for twenty-five minutes.
+
+
+=MARYLAND BEATEN BISCUIT=
+
+Add a teaspoonful of salt and tablespoonful of butter to a quart of
+flour. Rub them together, then add a cupful of milk, and, if necessary,
+a little water, making a stiff dough. Place the dough on a firm table or
+block, and beat it with a mallet or rolling-pin for fully half an hour,
+or until it becomes brittle. Spread it half an inch thick; cut it into
+small circles, and prick each one with a fork. Bake them in a hot oven
+about twenty minutes.
+
+
+=SOFT CORN-BREAD=
+
+Mix a tablespoonful of butter with two cupfuls of hot boiled hominy or
+of rice; add two or three well-beaten eggs, and then add slowly two
+cupfuls of milk, and lastly a cupful of white cornmeal and a dash of
+salt. Turn the mixture, which should be of the consistency of pancake
+batter, into a deep dish, and bake about an hour. Serve it with a spoon
+from the same dish in which it is baked.
+
+
+=SOUTHERN WAY OF COOKING RICE=
+
+Wash the rice thoroughly through several waters, using the hand. Put it
+into a saucepan with a pint of water and a half teaspoonful of salt to
+each cupful of rice. Let it boil covered until the water has boiled
+away; then draw it to the side of the range, open the cover a little,
+and let it steam until thoroughly dry. Do not touch the rice while it is
+cooking. This receipt is furnished by a Southern negro cook.
+
+
+=GUMBO FILE=
+
+(A NEW ORLEANS DISH)
+
+ 50 oysters.
+ 1 fowl cut into pieces.
+ 1/2 pound of veal cut into pieces.
+ 1/2 pound of ham cut into pieces.
+ 3 tablespoonfuls of tomato.
+ 1 tablespoonful of drippings.
+ 2 onions.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1/4 teaspoonful of pepper.
+ 1/4 teaspoonful of powdered thyme.
+ 1/4 teaspoonful of marjoram.
+ Dash of cayenne.
+ 2 tablespoonfuls of sassafras powder.
+
+Wash well the outside of a fowl (see page 180), and cut it into pieces.
+Cut the veal and the ham into small pieces, and dredge all of them well
+with flour.
+
+Put the onions, sliced, into a pot or large saucepan with one
+tablespoonful of fat or drippings, and fry until brown; then add the
+pieces of chicken, veal, and ham. Turn them often, so all will brown
+evenly; this will take about twenty minutes. When the meat is browned,
+add two quarts of hot water; cover the pot, and let simmer for two
+hours. After the first hour add the salt, pepper, thyme, marjoram, and
+tomatoes. At the end of two hours, if the meat is tender, add the
+oysters and the oyster juice, and let remain on the fire only long
+enough to ruffle the gills of the oysters. Take from the fire, and add
+two tablespoonfuls of sassafras powder, and stir until a little
+thickened (do not add the sassafras until the pot is removed from the
+fire).
+
+Serve in a meat-dish with a border of boiled rice. This is a dish much
+used in the South. It may be served as a chowder, with the meat and
+liquor together, or may be served separately, using the liquor as a
+soup.
+
+Powdered sassafras leaves may be obtained at the grocer's.
+
+
+=CHICKEN GUMBO=
+
+Cut a chicken into pieces; roll the pieces in flour; put them into a pot
+with a few slices of salt pork and one sliced onion. Saute them a light
+brown; then add four quarts of hot water, and simmer it until the
+chicken is nearly cooked; then add two slices of boiled ham, two quarts
+of sliced okra, one half can of tomatoes, and one pod of red pepper.
+Continue to cook until everything is tender. Season with salt and
+pepper, and just before serving stir in one teaspoonful of sassafras
+powder. If sassafras twigs can be had they are better than the powder,
+and should be added with the vegetables.
+
+This is a favorite Southern dish. It resembles a chowder, and is so
+hearty as to almost constitute a dinner in itself.
+
+
+
+PART II
+
+VERY INEXPENSIVE DISHES
+
+
+ [Sidenote: Cost of living.]
+
+The following receipts are furnished by a lady who for many
+years solved the problem of providing nourishment for a
+family of three persons upon a very small income. The
+average expenditure each day for three meals did not exceed
+twenty cents _per capita_, or four dollars and twenty cents
+a week for the family; and great care was taken to secure
+for this sum the greatest possible amount of nourishment. In
+families where meat is not considered a daily necessity,
+this price might be further reduced.
+
+ [Sidenote: Care required in cooking cheap cuts of meat.]
+
+It is, of course, very much easier to supply coarse qualities
+of food for a low sum than refined and dainty dishes, but,
+after all, it is more a matter of the care given to the
+preparation than of the food itself which produces refined
+results; for instance, beef, which is very nourishing, is
+least suited to these requirements, because the less expensive
+portions, which often contain the most nutriment, cannot be
+served as daintily as either veal or mutton without a large
+amount of care and trouble; this it is often difficult to give
+personally, and almost impossible to secure in a low-priced
+cook. Still, it is worth while for any housekeeper desirous of
+obtaining the maximum nourishment at minimum cost, to try the
+following receipts for using the most inexpensive portion of
+beef that can be bought, _i. e._, the shin, which costs about
+eight cents a pound.
+
+
+
+=TO PREPARE SHIN OF BEEF=
+
+Take a slice about one inch thick, cut toward the smaller end of the
+shin, so that the little round bone in the center is quite small. This
+is fairly manageable, and can by careful cooking be rendered as tender
+as a sirloin steak. Place the slice in a stewpan, cover it with water,
+add salt, and set it upon the far end of the grate for three hours,
+never allowing it to boil. If by that time it is fairly tender, cover it
+with vegetables cut in very small dice--carrots, turnips, and one large
+onion; advance the pot nearer to the fire, and let it simmer another
+hour. Push aside the vegetables, take the meat out carefully, and lay it
+on the dish; pile the vegetables upon its center, then carefully thicken
+the liquor, and if necessary brown it with a drop or two of burnt sugar,
+and pour this gravy over the beef.
+
+
+ANOTHER WAY
+
+Take about two and a half pounds of the thicker part of the shin, place
+it in an iron pot with two tablespoonfuls of drippings. Turn it as it
+browns. When brown enough put it in a stew-pan; add enough water to
+cover it, a large onion stuck full of cloves, and half a carrot cut into
+slices. Let it simmer four hours, remove the meat and onion and carrot,
+thicken the liquor, and serve in a dish large enough to allow plenty of
+gravy. If, after removing the meat, the liquor appears too rich, pour
+off the fat before thickening.
+
+ [Sidenote: Round Steak.]
+
+Round steak can be used instead of shin for both these
+receipts, but costs just double the price. It requires far
+less cooking and calls for less care, and if carefully and
+slowly stewed for one hour makes a very appetizing dish.
+
+Another very appetizing dish, much used by people of small
+means in England, is beefsteak pudding, for which it is also
+possible to use the shin, by stewing it beforehand, and
+cutting it up when perfectly tender into small pieces; but
+it is usually made of round steak as follows:
+
+
+=BEEFSTEAK PUDDING=
+
+Line a pudding-basin with a plain crust made of chopped suet and flour
+mixed with water, and simply rolled out once an inch thick; cut up a
+pound of round steak, and sprinkle with flour, pepper, and salt; chop a
+small onion fine, put all into the lined basin, add a cup of water,
+cover over with the suet crust, and tie it in a well-floured cloth. Have
+a saucepan full of water boiling rapidly, and put the basin in, the
+opening downwards; leave the lid off the saucepan, and let it boil two
+and one half hours, adding water if it boils away. A sheep's kidney cut
+up small adds richness to the gravy.
+
+ [Sidenote: Menus.]
+
+Sometimes, where great economy must be practised, and the sum
+allowed for the entire meal for three people is only sixty
+cents, it is difficult to remember just such accessories in
+the way of vegetables as are as inexpensive in their way as
+the meat, and for this reason the following very modest menus
+are offered as samples of what can be accomplished in the way
+of very inexpensive dinners.
+
+
+
+=DINNER No. 1=
+
+POTATO BALLS, SCOTCH BROTH, TURNIPS WITH WHITE SAUCE, TAPIOCA AND APPLES
+
+This is an excellent winter dinner.
+
+_Scotch Broth._--Buy for four persons one pound or one and a quarter
+pounds of scrag of mutton; chop it into pieces, and put it into an iron
+pot with one quart of water, one large onion cut into slices, and a
+small cupful of pearl barley. Let it simmer for two hours, adding a
+little water if it becomes too thick. Serve boiling hot with the mutton
+in it.
+
+This is very inexpensive. The scrag of mutton costs from eight to ten
+cents; the barley is eight cents a pound--about two cents' worth is
+sufficient; the onion may be reckoned as one cent. It can be made a
+little more costly by buying what is called the best end of the neck.
+Six or eight chops would weigh the pound and a quarter required, and
+would cost perhaps twelve to fourteen cents. The chops look somewhat
+better than the chopped-up scrag, but the nourishing quality is as good
+in the latter.
+
+_Potato Balls._--Choose large potatoes, and with a scoop cut out small
+balls; boil these and serve them sprinkled with chopped parsley.
+
+_Turnips._--Cut into small dice, boil until tender, throw away the
+water, and serve with a white sauce made of milk, flour, and a
+teaspoonful of butter. Two turnips are sufficient for a dish.
+
+_Tapioca and Apples._--Apples are cheap early in the winter. Three or
+four at a cent apiece should be pared and cored, and placed in a low
+baking-dish with two dessertspoonfuls of tapioca, and enough water to
+cover the whole. Bake in a slow oven. By soaking the tapioca over night
+a less quantity will do, say, one and a quarter spoonfuls.
+
+N. B.--Both sago and tapioca are very economical because, when soaked
+over night, they swell greatly, and they can both be cooked with water,
+instead of milk, with good results.
+
+
+=DINNER No. 2=
+
+STUFFED POTATOES, VEAL WITH WHITE SAUCE, PURIFIED CABBAGE, RENNET
+CUSTARD
+
+Buy one and a quarter pounds of leg of veal at ten cents a pound; cut
+the meat into dice, and place it in a stew-pan with a piece of mace and
+a pint of milk. Place it back of the fire so that it will not burn, and
+thicken it before serving with a teaspoonful of flour.
+
+_Stuffed Potatoes._--Bake four large potatoes until nearly done; then
+cut in half, remove the insides, beat them up with milk, replace in the
+skins, and serve in a pyramid.
+
+_Purified Cabbage._--Cut a cabbage into thin strips as if for salad;
+boil it in salted water, but every time the water comes to the boiling
+point throw it away for three successive times; after the third boiling
+use milk instead of water, and add a little nutmeg. If nicely cooked in
+this way, cabbage is as palatable and as digestible as cauliflower.
+
+
+=DINNER No. 3=
+
+STEWED CARROTS, CHOPS WITH PARSLEY SAUCE, CREAM POTATOES, APPLE
+DUMPLINGS
+
+Chops cut from the shoulder of mutton are cheaper than either neck or
+loin chops, and are as good, perhaps better, for boiling. Put the chops
+on in enough cold water to cover them; let them simmer for half an hour,
+and at the end of that time come just to a boil; pour off the liquor
+into the stock-pot, and lay the chops on a hot dish; make some white
+sauce of one ounce of butter, one teaspoonful of flour, and a cup of
+milk; add chopped parsley, and pour over the chops.
+
+To stew carrots cut them in very thin rounds, lay them in a stew-pan
+with enough water to more than cover. Let them boil till tender, about
+one quarter of an hour; then thicken the liquor with flour, and add a
+tiny bit of butter.
+
+
+=DINNER No. 4=
+
+BOILED ONIONS, CURRY, RICE, STEWED PRUNES
+
+Curry can be made of a variety of materials. The best for the purpose
+are the white meats, veal, pork, or chicken; and although curried cooked
+meat is a satisfactory substitute for hash, it is not on the whole
+commendable. The Indian receipt for ordinary curry is as follows:
+
+Cut the fowl or meat into joints or fair-sized pieces; dip each piece in
+curry powder, or sprinkle freely with it; cut up a large onion, and have
+a clove of garlic. Put all together in a frying-pan, the bottom of which
+is covered with melted butter (drippings or lard will do); fry until
+thoroughly brown, turning continually. When brown, remove meat into a
+stew-pan; make a gravy with flour and water (or stock) in the frying-pan
+from which the meat was taken; strain it over the meat, and then add a
+few drops of lemon, or a little Worcester sauce--and set the stew-pan on
+the side of the stove and let it simmer for two hours. The meat should
+be so tender that it can be readily separated by a fork. A knife should
+never be used. Eggs make a delicious curry. Boil them hard, shell, and
+cut in halves; make a curry gravy as above, and pour over them. Serve
+with rice around the dish.
+
+_Rice._--The proper way to serve rice with curry is perfectly dry, and
+this is best secured by throwing a cupful (for an ordinary dish) into
+water which is already boiling hard. Let it continue to boil rapidly
+until the water has all boiled away, leaving the lid off. The rice will
+then be almost tender, and by removing to the side of the stove the
+evaporation will continue, and the rice drying off will be easily
+separable grain from grain, which is the proper way. The success of this
+method depends upon having plenty of water in the first instance.
+
+_Madras_ curry is differently made, and is served dry. For it, proceed
+as for the other curry by frying all the ingredients together in butter
+or drippings, but when brown continue to fry until the meat is done;
+then at the last moment add a sprinkling of curry powder, shake the pan,
+and turn all the contents onto a hot dish. Serve with rice.
+
+
+=DINNER No. 5=
+
+BRUSSELS SPROUTS, LIVER SAUTE, POTATOES, RICE PUDDING
+
+Calf's liver can be so cooked as to be both delicate and easily
+digested. The German method is a very good one. Remove any outer skin,
+and cut the liver into very thin slices. Have a pan with salted boiling
+water and throw in the liver. It will require only about five minutes'
+cooking if the slices are thin enough. Take them out, lay them on a hot
+dish, and make a gravy by frying a cut-up onion and when brown pouring
+in the liquor used to boil the liver, thickening with flour and browning
+if necessary. Add at the last moment one half a large spoonful of
+vinegar.
+
+Liver balls may be made by using the liver left over, chopping it very
+fine with an onion, some sage, or thyme (as may be preferred),
+bread-crumbs and a beaten egg, and frying in hot lard.
+
+Liver should be accompanied by a green vegetable, for which reason
+Brussels sprouts are suggested. They should be cooked in salted water,
+drained, and served with white sauce, flavored with nutmeg.
+
+
+=DINNER No. 6=
+
+FRIED SWEET POTATOES, BREAST OF MUTTON, CAPER SAUCE, STRING-BEANS (TEN
+CENTS A CAN), APPLE PIE
+
+Breast of mutton is the cheapest of all mutton, and being very fat, is
+considered unprofitable, but by care it can be made both palatable and
+economical. Buy about three pounds of breast; place it in a pan over a
+slow fire until a good deal of the fat has melted, but avoid letting it
+brown; pour away the fat as it melts, and when fairly free of it place
+the meat in a stew-pan with an onion cut up, and enough water to cover
+it, and a little thyme. Let it cook very slowly, only simmering for two
+hours; then lay on a hot dish, and pour caper sauce over it. If it is
+still fat skim often while simmering.
+
+
+=SOME CHEAP SOUPS=
+
+_Tomato._--Turn a can of tomatoes into a stew-pan, and let come to a
+boil; fry some bread in dice, place them at the bottom of a soup
+tureen, and rub the tomatoes through a colander over them; put the pulp
+left in the colander back into the stewpan; add water, let it boil up,
+and strain again into the tureen; stir in a teaspoonful of butter,
+season with pepper and salt, and serve.
+
+_Carrot._--Boil half a dozen large carrots until quite tender; then rub
+them through a colander into a saucepan; add a pint and a half of water
+to the pulp, and boil; thicken with a little flour, and add a
+teaspoonful of butter, pepper and salt.
+
+_Potato._--Boil half a dozen large potatoes; rub them through a sieve
+(coarse hair is the best) into a saucepan in which there have been
+placed a shredded onion, some chopped parsley, and about a cupful of
+milk. Stir in the potato pulp, and thin with water. Season with pepper
+and salt.
+
+_Bean._--Soak some beans over night, boil for one hour; add an onion
+when nearly soft, rub them through a colander into a tureen in which
+have been already placed some onions fried in butter or lard, and add
+water if too thick.
+
+_Celery._--Take the cast-off leaves and hard ends of a bunch of celery,
+and let them boil until perfectly shredded; then strain the water into
+some thickened milk, and let it all come to the boiling point, but not
+boil. Season with butter, pepper and salt. It is a very good addition to
+this soup to break an egg into the tureen, and pour the soup upon it.
+
+Stock can be used in any of these soups instead of water.
+
+
+
+
+PART III
+
+MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS
+
+
+=STERILIZED MILK=
+
+The subject of bacteria in foods has of late become a matter of careful
+scientific study, and the fact has been established that milk is one of
+the most subtle of disease-carriers. Hence every careful mother, before
+giving it to her children, subjects it to the sterilizing process, which
+is simply raising it to the degree of heat which destroys the germs. It
+is found, however, that this does not kill the spores or seeds of the
+bacilli, and so the operation is but a partially successful expedient.
+(To render it really sterile requires heating several times on
+successive days.) It has also been found that sterilizing milk robs it
+of its antiscorbutic qualities, and that children fed entirely upon it
+are subject to bleeding gums and other symptoms of scurvy. Milk should
+be fresh as possible, as the longer it stands the greater will be the
+number of bacteria, and less rich the milk in the substances on which
+they feed. The first point to emphasize in the simple process of
+sterilization is perfect cleanliness. Rounded bottles should be used, as
+they are easier to clean. They should be well rinsed as soon as emptied,
+and left to soak in soda and water, and before use they should be
+subjected to a good scrubbing with scalding water and a piece of cloth
+tied onto a stick or wire. The brushes made for cleaning bottles should
+be avoided, as they are more than likely to be full of germs themselves.
+Turn the fresh milk into the bottles as soon as cleaned. Fill them to
+within an inch of the top, and stop them with antiseptic cotton. The
+sterilizing is effected by keeping the bottles in boiling water or in
+live steam for at least half an hour. The water in the boiler should be
+cold at first, and the heat raised gradually. This, as well as not
+letting the bottles rest on the bottom of the kettle, will prevent their
+breaking. Sterilizers are made which are both cheap and convenient, but
+any kettle well covered will answer the purpose. The time for cooking
+should be counted from the moment the water boils. Let the bottles
+remain in the water until cooled, and do not remove the stopper until
+the milk is to be used.
+
+
+=DEVONSHIRE CREAM, No. 1=
+
+(RECEIPT OBTAINED IN ENGLAND.)
+
+Put a panful of milk in a cold place for twenty-four hours, or in summer
+for twelve hours. Then place it on the fire, and let it come very slowly
+to the scalding-point, but do not let it boil. Put it again in a cool
+place for six or twelve hours, and then take off the cream, which will
+be firm and of a peculiarly sweet flavor.
+
+
+=DEVONSHIRE CREAM, No. 2=
+
+Put the fresh milk on the fire, and let it very slowly come to the
+scalding-point, but do not let it boil. Leave it on the fire for about
+half an hour, then remove to a cold place, and let it stand for six
+hours, or until the cream has all risen.
+
+Devonshire cream is thick and clotted, and is used on fruits, mush, etc.
+It will keep for some time, and is particularly delicious.
+
+
+=FRESH BUTTER=
+
+The French use for table butter that which is freshly made and without
+salt. One soon learns to prefer it to the best salted butter. It is very
+easy to make fresh butter, but not always easy to buy it, for it keeps
+only a day at its best, and therefore the surest way of having it good
+is to make it. Take a half pint of double cream; turn it into a bowl,
+and with a wire whip beat it until the butter forms. This will take but
+a few minutes, if the cream is of the right temperature (65 deg.). (If very
+cold, it will whip to froth as it is prepared for whipped cream.) Turn
+off the milk; add some ice water, and work the butter until it is firm
+and free from milk; then press it into pats, and keep it in a tight jar
+on the ice until ready to use.
+
+This amount of cream, which costs ten cents, will, if rich, give a
+quarter of a pound of butter. Put some fresh grass or some clover
+blossoms in the jar with the butter, and it will absorb their flavor.
+(See illustration facing page 256.)
+
+[Illustration: BUTTER PATS AND MOLDED BUTTER. (SEE PAGE 258.)
+
+ 1. Shells made with No. 5.
+ 2. Balls made with No. 7.
+ 3. Small pats made with No. 6.
+ 4. Rolls made with No. 7.]
+
+
+=TO MAKE WHITE HARD SOAP=
+
+Save every scrap of fat each day; try out all that has accumulated,
+however small the quantity. This is done by placing the scraps in a
+frying-pan on the back of the range. If the heat is low, and the grease
+is not allowed to get hot enough to smoke or burn, there will be no odor
+from it. Turn the melted grease into lard-pails and keep them covered.
+When six pounds of fat have been obtained, turn it into a dish-pan; add
+a generous amount of hot water, and stand it on the range until the
+grease is entirely melted. Stir it well together; then stand it aside to
+cool. This is clarifying the grease. The clean grease will rise to the
+top, and when it has cooled can be taken off in a cake, and such
+impurities as have not settled in the water, can be scraped off the
+bottom of the cake of fat.
+
+Put the clean grease into the dish-pan and melt it. Put a can of
+Babbitt's lye in a lard-pail; add to it a quart of cold water, and stir
+it with a stick or wooden spoon until it is dissolved. It will get hot
+when the water is added; let it stand until it cools. Remove the melted
+grease from the fire, and pour in the lye slowly, stirring all the time.
+Add two tablespoonfuls of ammonia. Stir the mixture constantly for
+twenty minutes or half an hour, or until the soap begins to set.
+
+Let it stand until perfectly hard; then cut it into square cakes. This
+makes a very good, white hard soap which will float on water. It is very
+little trouble to make, and will be found quite an economy in a
+household. Six pounds of grease make eight and a half pounds of soap.
+
+
+=FLOOR POLISH=
+
+ 4 ounces of beeswax.
+ 1 quart of turpentine.
+ Piece of resin size of hickory nut.
+
+Cut up the beeswax and pound the resin. Melt them together. Take them
+from the fire and stir in a quart of turpentine. Rub very little on the
+floor with a piece of flannel; then polish with a dry flannel and a
+brush.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+EGGS
+
+ There is a best way of doing everything, even if it be
+ to boil an egg.--_Emerson._
+
+
+The variety of purposes which eggs serve, the many ways
+of cooking them, their value as a highly concentrated,
+nutritious, and easily-digested food, make them one of the
+most useful articles of food. To have them fresh and rightly
+cooked is within the power of the simplest household. They
+hold the principal place as a breakfast dish, and although the
+original methods of cooking them may be limited to boiling,
+baking, poaching, etc., each one of these can be varied in an
+indefinite number of ways, giving a menu of eggs unlimited in
+extent, and thus securing always a new way of presenting them,
+if desired. Urbain Dubois has recently published a book giving
+300 ways of preparing eggs. The varieties are attained mostly
+by the sauces and garnishings. It is not generally understood
+that sauces can be served with poached, hard-boiled, and
+scrambled eggs, and also with omelets.
+
+ [Sidenote: To judge of freshness and how to preserve eggs.]
+
+ [Sidenote: How to pack.]
+
+A fresh egg should feel heavy, sink in water, and when held to
+a bright light, show a clear round yolk. If old, a part of the
+substance will have evaporated through the pores of the shell,
+leaving a space filled with air, which will cause it to float
+on water. It will also contain dark specks. To preserve eggs
+it is necessary to stop the pores of the shells with a coating
+of fat or gum or wax. This will prevent the air from entering
+and decomposing the nitrogenous elements of the egg. They
+should be packed standing on the small end, and kept in a
+cool, dark place. Another way of preserving them is to immerse
+them in a saturated solution of lime.
+
+
+
+=BOILED EGGS=
+
+Soft-boiled eggs should have the albumen creamy, not hard. To obtain
+this, slow heat is required. Hence receipt No. 1 is recommended. No. 2
+gives a soft egg, but the time is difficult to determine exactly. No. 3
+gives satisfactory results. To have eggs hard boil them for twenty-five
+minutes. The yolks will then be dry and mealy. When done, place them in
+cold water for fifteen minutes. Then roll them lightly on the table to
+crush the shells, which can then be peeled off easily, leaving the
+surface smooth and white. Use a sharp, thin knife for cutting them so
+the pieces will be clean and smooth.
+
+
+=No. 1=
+
+Place the eggs in warm water to heat the shells so they will not crack
+when put into boiling water. Let the water in the saucepan boil
+violently; put in the eggs carefully, and when the water again bubbles,
+remove it from the fire; cover and let the eggs remain in it for five
+minutes.
+
+
+=No. 2=
+
+Put the eggs into boiling water and cook for three minutes, the water
+boiling all the time.
+
+
+=No. 3=
+
+Place the eggs in cold water on the fire, and remove as soon as the
+water boils.
+
+
+=POACHED EGGS, No. 1=
+
+The white of a poached egg should be a white, translucent, jelly-like
+mass. To obtain this result, which makes it an easily digested food, it
+must cook very slowly, the water never reaching the boiling-point. Place
+in a shallow pan as many muffin-rings as you have eggs to poach. Turn in
+enough boiling water to just cover the rings; add a little salt. When
+the water boils, draw the pan to the side of the range, and break an egg
+into each ring. It should take at least ten to fifteen minutes to cook
+the eggs to the translucent state desired. Have ready even pieces of
+toast one half inch thick, cut into rounds a trifle larger than the
+muffin-rings. Moisten them with hot water, and spread with a little
+butter. Remove the eggs carefully on a skimmer or pancake turner, and
+place one on each round of toast; then lift off carefully the rings, and
+place a spot of pepper in the center of each yolk. Arrange them
+symmetrically on a dish, and garnish with parsley.
+
+
+=FRENCH POACHED EGGS, No. 2=
+
+These eggs, when properly cooked, are in the shape of balls, and are
+used for fancy egg-dishes. Have in a deep saucepan a generous amount of
+water; add a little salt and vinegar; the salt to raise the heat of the
+water, the vinegar to harden the white of the egg. When the water is
+violently boiling, crack the shell of the egg, and holding it close to
+the water, drop the contents quickly on the point of greatest
+ebullition. The egg should drop all at once, not drain into the water.
+The mass will then be whole, and the violently agitated water will toss
+it about, giving it a round form. When sufficiently firm to hold, remove
+with a skimmer and place carefully on the bottom of an inverted tin to
+drain. Poach but one egg at a time, and remove it before the yolk
+hardens.
+
+
+=POACHED EGG, No. 3=
+
+Add a dash of salt to the white of an egg and whip it to a froth. Place
+this in a deep saucer or cup, and place in the center the whole
+unbroken yolk. Set the dish in a pan of boiling water; cover and let
+cook for two minutes. This is a good way to serve an egg to an invalid.
+
+[Illustration: POACHED EGG. NO. 3. (SEE PAGE 263.)]
+
+
+=FRIED EGGS=
+
+Place a little butter in a very clean frying-pan. When it bubbles, turn
+in the eggs, one at a time, and keep the pan where the heat is not
+sufficient to blacken the butter. If the eggs are wanted hard, turn and
+fry them on both sides like a pancake.
+
+
+=SCRAMBLED EGGS=
+
+Beat the eggs lightly with a fork, just enough to break them. To four
+eggs add two tablespoonfuls of milk, one half teaspoonful of salt, and a
+dash of pepper. Put into a very clean frying-pan one half tablespoonful
+of butter. When it begins to bubble, turn in the eggs, and stir them
+constantly over a slow fire until they begin to set; then remove them
+from the fire and continue to stir until they are of the right
+consistency. The heat of the pan will be sufficient to finish the
+cooking, and there will not be danger of their being overcooked. They
+should be firm only, not hard. If the pan is perfectly clean, and the
+butter is not allowed to burn, they will have a bright clean color.
+Scrambled eggs may be varied the same as omelets, by mixing with them
+any other thing desired. The extra material should be added when the pan
+is taken from the fire, and stirred with the egg until it has finished
+cooking. A teaspoonful of parsley, chopped fine, gives a good flavor and
+simple change. A little puree of tomatoes added makes a good
+combination. With minced chicken, veal, ham, fried bacon, mushrooms, or
+sweetbreads, it makes a good luncheon dish. Any pieces left over will
+serve the purpose, as very little is required. Garnish the dish with
+croutons and parsley.
+
+
+=PLAIN FRENCH OMELET=
+
+An omelet is the most difficult to prepare of any egg dish. It requires
+some practice to give it the right shape (which is high in the center
+and pointed at the ends), to have it soft inside, to give it a
+smooth, slightly browned surface, a texture like scrambled eggs, and to
+have everything perfect. The first essential is to have a perfectly
+clean and smooth pan. It is difficult to make a smooth omelet in a pan
+used for other purposes; so it is well to have one kept for this use
+alone. The French do not wash the omelet-pan, but scour it smooth with
+salt and vinegar when it sticks, and at other times rub it clean with a
+dry cloth. Before using the pan scour it well with dry salt to give it
+extra smoothness.
+
+It is better to make several small omelets than one large one, using not
+more than three or four eggs for each one. Beat the eggs just enough to
+break them. The rule is twelve beats. To three eggs add a half
+teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper, and a half teaspoonful of butter
+broken into small bits. A teaspoonful of milk may be used or not. Have
+the pan evenly heated and hot, but not scorching. Put in a half
+teaspoonful of butter and let it run evenly over the pan, but not brown;
+turn in the eggs. With a knife or fork break the cooked surface in
+several places quickly, so the egg from the top may run to the bottom
+and cook, or press the egg away from the sides, letting the uncooked
+part run under. This must be done in the beginning so as not to make the
+surface uneven. When the egg is cooked, but yet quite soft on the top,
+lift the pan on one side, slip the knife under, and carefully roll the
+omelet to the center. Let it cook a moment to set any egg that has run
+out, and if the color is not right add a little butter, and let it run
+under and slightly color the omelet. Place a hot dish over the pan and
+turn them together so the omelet will fall in the right place; press it
+into good shape, doubling it under on the ends if necessary. Garnish
+with parsley and serve at once. Have everything ready before beginning
+to cook an omelet, as it will not bear being kept while the dish is
+heated, and the garnishing found.
+
+
+=VARIATIONS OF THE OMELET=
+
+ No. 1. Sprinkle a little parsley, chopped fine, over the
+ top.
+
+ No. 2. Turn tomato, Bechamel or mushroom sauce on the dish
+ around the omelet; sprinkle the top with chopped
+ mushrooms, if that sauce is used. Garnish with
+ pointed croutons.
+
+ No. 3. Green omelet. Mix chopped parsley with the egg
+ mixture before cooking the omelet, and do not brown
+ the surface.
+
+ No. 4. Aux Fines Herbes. Chop parsley, chives, chervil,
+ and tarragon very fine. Mix them with the egg mixture
+ before cooking. When the omelet is turned out, rub
+ over it a little maitre d'hotel butter (see page
+ 286).
+
+ No. 5. With Peas or Tomatoes. Before turning a plain
+ omelet, spread it with a few green peas or tomatoes
+ cooked and seasoned. Asparagus or any other vegetable
+ may be used in the same way.
+
+ No. 6. With Ham. Spread the plain omelet with ham, chopped
+ fine, before turning it. Any other cooked meat may be
+ used in the same way.
+
+
+=BEATEN OMELET=
+
+Beat very light the yolks and whites of three eggs separately. Season
+the yolks with salt and pepper and one tablespoonful of milk; then fold
+in lightly the whipped whites. Put a half teaspoonful of butter in a hot
+frying or omelet pan. Let it run over the bottom and sides of the pan,
+but do not let it brown. Turn in the egg mixture, spread it lightly and
+evenly over the pan, and let it cook until it forms a very light crust
+on the bottom; then place it in the oven about three minutes, or until
+the egg is cooked through, but not hard; fold it once, and turn it onto
+a hot dish. This omelet may be used the same as the French omelet in
+combination with other things. Spread anything so used on the omelet
+before turning it. For a sweet omelet add sugar to the yolks, and omit
+the pepper. Serve at once.
+
+
+=SHIRRED EGGS=
+
+(SUR LE PLAT ... AU MIROIR ... COCOTTE.)
+
+For this dish (sur le plat) individual china dishes are generally used,
+although a dish holding several eggs will do. Butter the dishes; break
+into each one an egg; sprinkle a little salt on the whites, but not on
+the yolks. Place them on the shelf of the oven so the heat will be
+greatest on top; baste the yolks several times while baking with a
+little hot butter. This will give them a glaze. As soon as the glaze
+appears remove them from the oven, and if not sufficiently cooked, stand
+them for a minute on the top of the range. Care must be used not to dry
+the eggs.
+
+Several eggs cooked together in this way in a large dish, then cut into
+circles with a biscuit cutter, and placed on broiled ham, stewed
+kidneys, minced meat, tomato puree, or other things, are called eggs au
+miroir. When baked in individual dishes, they may be varied by
+sprinkling in the dish before the egg is added a little chopped ham,
+chicken, mushrooms, or tomato puree, etc. When baked in little
+pot-shaped dishes in the same way they are called cocottes. These may be
+varied by lining the dishes with a thin layer of forcemeat or minced
+meat, the eggs then dropped in and poached by standing the dishes in a
+pan of water in the oven. When done, a little cream or Bechamel sauce or
+tomato puree is turned over the top, and sprinkled with parsley. Serve
+eggs sur le plat and cocotte in the dishes in which they are baked.
+
+[Illustration: 1. SHIRRED EGG. 2. COCOTTE. (SEE PAGE 266.)]
+
+
+=MOLDED EGGS=
+
+(A LA POLIGNAC)
+
+Butter well some individual timbale molds; chop some parsley very fine,
+and powder the inside of the buttered molds with it. To do this, place a
+teaspoonful of the parsley in a buttered mold, cover it with the hand
+and shake it well; then invert the mold, and strike it on the table to
+free it of all that is loose. Break into each mold an egg, letting it go
+in slowly from the side so no air bubbles will be held, as they make
+holes and uneven surface in the cooked egg. Sprinkle the top with salt
+and butter. Place the molds in a pan of hot water, half covering them,
+and poach in a moderate oven eight to ten minutes, or until firm enough
+to stand, but not very hard. Serve them on a flat dish with a spoonful
+of white, Bechamel, or tomato sauce under each form. This is a very
+simple way of preparing eggs, and makes a good luncheon dish.
+
+[Illustration: MOLDED EGGS A LA POLIGNAC. (SEE PAGE 267.)]
+
+
+=MOLDED HAM AND EGGS=
+
+Mince some boiled ham very fine. Moisten it with white sauce and raw
+egg, just enough to make a consistent paste. Line individual buttered
+timbale molds with a thin layer of the ham paste. Break an egg in the
+center of each one, and poach them in the oven eight to ten minutes, as
+directed for eggs a la Polignac. Place a little white or Bechamel sauce
+on the serving dish; turn the eggs onto it, and put a spoonful of sauce
+on the top of each one, letting it run over, and partly mask them, as
+the color of the ham is not attractive. Garnish with parsley. Another
+receipt for ham and eggs is given on page 178. Any other meat may be
+used in the same way.
+
+
+=POACHED EGGS ON ANCHOVY TOAST=
+
+(A SUPPER DISH)
+
+Cut toasted bread into circles; spread them with anchovy paste, and
+place on each piece a poached egg prepared as directed in receipt No. 1.
+
+
+=POACHED EGGS WITH ANCHOVY=
+
+(AN ENTREE FOR LUNCHEON)
+
+Cut bread into circles and toast them; spread them lightly first with
+anchovy paste, then with a layer of ham or tongue chopped very fine,
+seasoned well, and a little moistened with stock or white sauce. Cover
+the top with whipped white of egg; place a raw yolk in the center of
+each one. Bake them in the oven for one minute, or just long enough to
+well heat the egg.
+
+
+=POACHED EGG WITH TOMATO=
+
+Cut bread into slices three quarters of an inch thick, then into
+circles. With a smaller cutter cut half way through the bread, and
+remove the center, leaving a form like a patty case. Fry them in hot fat
+to an amber color; fill the centers with well seasoned tomato puree, and
+place on the top of each one a French poached egg.
+
+
+=EGGS A LA VILLEROI=
+
+This dish is served as an entree for luncheon, and is a particularly
+good as well as mysterious dish, for having a soft egg inside a
+croquette seems a difficult thing to get. Poach the eggs French style
+(page 263), using care to have them round and just firm enough to hold
+in shape. Lift them carefully on a strainer, and place them on the
+bottom of an inverted pan, leaving a space between them. When they are
+cold trim them, carefully removing any ragged ends of white, and wipe
+them dry. Make a Villeroi sauce as directed (page 280). When it is
+partly cooled, pour it with a spoon over the eggs. It should form a
+thick coating. When it is cold and well set, trim each egg neatly again,
+cutting away any of the sauce that has run over the pan. Have some soft,
+white crumbs, grated from the loaf or rubbed through a coarse sieve, and
+mixed with grated cheese. Lift an egg on a broad knife, and place it on
+the crumbs. Cover it with as many crumbs as will adhere. Lift it again
+on the knife into a dish containing beaten egg, and with a spoon moisten
+it well with the egg. Then place it on fresh, white crumbs that are not
+mixed with cheese, and cover it completely. It can now be handled with
+care and turned into good shape in the crumbs. Let the breaded eggs
+stand until just ready to serve, then place three or four at a time in a
+wire basket, and plunge them in smoking hot fat (see frying, page 72) to
+take a delicate color. Do not let them become deeper than lemon color.
+Place a spoonful of Villeroi sauce on each plate, using the sauce left
+from coating the eggs and thinning it with stock; place an egg on the
+sauce and serve at once. Chopped truffles mixed with the sauce improves
+it.
+
+
+=EGGS A LA BOURGUINONNE=
+
+Poach eggs in the French style, letting them be as soft as possible.
+Butter a flat baking-dish; sprinkle it with bread crumbs and grated
+cheese. Place on them carefully the poached eggs. Cover them with
+Bechamel or Allemande sauce (see page 279), and sprinkle over the top
+grated Parmesan cheese. Place in a hot oven to melt the cheese, and
+lightly brown the top.
+
+
+=EGGS A L'AURORE=
+
+Take six hard-boiled eggs, and press the yolks through a colander. Cut
+the whites into half-inch dice, mix them with a well-reduced white or
+Bechamel sauce, and turn them into a flat baking-dish. Cover the top
+with the mashed yolks, dot it with small bits of butter, and place in a
+hot oven for a few minutes to heat, but not brown. This may be served in
+individual cups or shells if desired. Chopped mushrooms mixed with the
+sauce makes a good variation of the dish. Another way of serving it is
+to cut the whites lengthwise into quarters or eighths, and place them in
+a circle on the dish; pour the sauce in the center, leaving the points
+of one end uncovered, and sprinkle over the sauce the mashed yolks. In
+order not to have the dish cold when served in this way, keep the cut
+whites in hot water until ready to serve. Have the dish hot, and put all
+together quickly at the moment of serving. (See illustration.)
+
+[Illustration: EGGS A L'AURORE. (SEE PAGE 270.)]
+
+
+=GOLDEN CREAM TOAST=
+
+Cut bread into even pieces; toast and butter the pieces, and moisten
+them with hot water. Boil six eggs hard. Separate the whites from the
+yolks; chop the whites, and press the yolks through a colander or sieve.
+Make a white sauce, using one tablespoonful each of butter and flour
+cooked together, and then add a cupful of cream or milk. When it is well
+thickened add the chopped whites, and season with pepper and salt.
+Spread this mixture on the slices of toast, and cover the top with the
+mashed yolks. Sprinkle the yolks evenly over the pieces, so they look
+very yellow. Serve very hot.
+
+
+=CURRIED EGGS=
+
+Boil the eggs hard; remove the shells carefully as directed (page 262),
+and drop them in hot water to keep warm until ready to use. Mold some
+boiled rice into a form resembling a nest. Have the rice boiled so each
+grain is distinct (see page 222). Place it on the hot shelf to keep
+warm. Place a teaspoonful of chopped onion in a saucepan with a
+tablespoonful of butter, and cook until the onion is a light yellow, but
+not brown. Add an even tablespoonful of corn starch, mixed with a half
+tablespoonful of curry powder and diluted with a little cold milk or
+stock, then stir in slowly one and a half cupfuls of white stock or
+milk. Let it cook until the corn starch is clear; add pepper and salt to
+taste, and strain it. The sauce should be a bright yellow color,
+perfectly smooth, and not very thick. Wipe the eggs dry, roll them in
+the sauce to get evenly coated with color, and place them in the nest of
+rice. Pour in enough sauce to moisten the rice without discoloring the
+outside or top edge of the rice around the eggs. (See illustration.)
+
+[Illustration: CURRIED EGGS IN A NEST OF RICE. (SEE PAGE 271.)]
+
+
+=STUFFED EGGS No. 1=
+
+Cut hard-boiled eggs in two lengthwise. Take out carefully the yolks,
+mash them, and mix them with some chicken or other meat minced fine.
+Season the mixture with pepper and salt. Moisten it with a little of any
+kind of sauce or gravy, and add a little raw egg. Chopped truffles and
+mushrooms may be added to the stuffing if convenient. Fill the spaces in
+the whites of the eggs with the mixture; smooth it even with the top;
+rub a little raw white of egg over the pieces, and press two halves
+together. Roll the stuffed eggs in egg and crumbs, and fry in hot fat to
+a lemon color. Serve the eggs on a napkin, and pass with them a white,
+Bechamel, tomato, or any other sauce.
+
+
+=STUFFED EGGS No. 2=
+
+Cut hard-boiled eggs in halves. Take out the yolks, leaving two
+cup-shaped pieces. Mix the yolks with an equal quantity of softened
+bread; season with salt, pepper, and parsley. Add a little raw egg to
+bind the mixture, and fill the spaces from which the yolks were taken.
+Round it on top to give the appearance of a whole yolk. Cut a little
+slice off the bottom of the egg, so it will stand firm. Place them in
+the oven just long enough to heat, and serve standing, on a dish covered
+with white sauce.
+
+
+=EGG CROQUETTES=
+
+Cut some hard-boiled eggs into quarter-inch dice. Mix with them some
+chopped mushrooms. Stir them carefully into a well-reduced Bechamel or
+white sauce made as directed for croquettes (page 293). Turn the mixture
+onto a cold dish to cool and stiffen. Mold into croquettes, and fry in
+hot fat. See directions for croquettes (page 293).
+
+
+=OTHER WAYS OF SERVING HARD-BOILED EGGS=
+
+(LUNCHEON DISHES)
+
+No. 1. Cut hard-boiled eggs in two lengthwise. Arrange them
+symmetrically on a flat dish, and pour over them a giblet sauce made of
+chicken or turkey gravy.
+
+No. 2. Cut hard-boiled eggs into quarters. Make a ring form of boiled
+rice; fill the center with the eggs; pour over them some Bechamel sauce.
+Sprinkle the whole with bread-crumbs and grated cheese. Moisten the top
+with melted butter, and place in the oven to brown. Serve on the dish in
+which they are browned.
+
+
+=TOMATOES STUFFED WITH EGGS=
+
+Select round tomatoes of uniform size; remove the skins. Cut a slice off
+the tops, and take out the seeds and soft pulp. Drop into each one a raw
+egg, and replace the cover. Set the tomatoes into a buttered pan or
+into a baking-dish which can be sent to the table, and place in the oven
+for about ten minutes, or until the egg has set. Serve on the same dish
+and with a brown or a Bechamel sauce.
+
+
+=EGGS A LA REINE=
+
+DOWN TOWN CLUB
+
+Make croustades, three inches in diameter and half an inch thick, from
+stale American bread. Dip them in good melted butter, put them on a pan
+in the oven until they are a nice light-brown color; then take out the
+center of each croustade and fill with foie gras. On the top of each put
+a poached egg; then pour over a cream sauce, sprinkle with truffles
+chopped fine, and serve immediately.
+
+
+=EGGS LIVINGSTON=
+
+DOWN TOWN CLUB. (FOR SIX PERSONS)
+
+Take twelve raw eggs, half a pint of rich cream; beat well together, add
+salt and pepper. Put the mixture in a flat saucepan well buttered, and
+scramble; then add three quarters of a pint of well-cooked tomato meat
+and three truffles hashed (not too fine). Dress on toast covered with
+pate de foie gras. Serve very hot.
+
+
+=EGGS AU BEURRE NOIR=
+
+Poach or fry the number of eggs desired and place them on a flat dish.
+Pour over them enough brown butter sauce to well moisten them. (See page
+291.)
+
+
+=SPANISH OMELET=
+
+Make a plain French omelet, using four eggs (see page 264). Just before
+it is done place in the center a veal kidney, which has been well
+soaked, then cut into half-inch dice and sauted until tender in a
+tablespoonful of butter. Do not cook the kidney too long or it will
+toughen.
+
+Fold the omelet and turn it onto a dish. Pour around the omelet a tomato
+sauce (see page 285). Spread over the top of the omelet a sweet green
+pepper, which has been boiled until tender and then cut into narrow
+strips.
+
+The sauce, the kidney and the pepper should be prepared first, as the
+omelet must be served as soon as the eggs are cooked.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+SAUCES
+
+ "There are many sauces besides hunger."
+
+
+ [Sidenote: General directions.]
+
+The basis of most sauces is butter and flour cooked together,
+which makes a roux or thickening. If for a white sauce, the
+flour is not colored; if for a brown sauce, the flour is
+cooked until brown. To this basis are added the flavor and
+seasoning suited to the dish with which it is to be served.
+For meats, it is the flavor of meat, vegetables, spices, and
+herbs; for entrees, it is the flavor of meat or chicken, and
+cream; for vegetables it is butter, cream or milk, and eggs;
+for fish, the same, with a little lemon-juice or vinegar to
+give piquancy. The basis of pudding sauces is butter and
+sugar.
+
+ [Sidenote: Uses and variations of the white sauce.]
+
+Sauces are easily made, and greatly improve the dishes they
+accompany. Many dishes depend upon sauces to make them
+palatable, and many made-over dishes are very acceptable when
+served with a good sauce. The first and most simple one to
+learn is the white sauce, and this is used for very many
+dishes. It is made by melting a tablespoonful of butter, and
+then adding a tablespoonful of flour. To this roux is added a
+half pint (one cupful) of milk for white sauce, or of cream
+for cream sauce. If a cupful of stock (or half stock and half
+milk) is used it becomes a Bechamel sauce; then, if a couple
+of egg-yolks are added, it makes a poulette sauce, which is
+the one generally used with chicken, sweetbreads, oysters,
+etc.
+
+The superiority of French cooking is largely in the variety of
+their sauces, to the preparation of which much care is given.
+It cannot be too strongly urged that every housekeeper will
+give attention to this important branch of cooking.
+
+ [Sidenote: Stock for sauces.]
+
+Every kitchen can produce a stock made from odds and ends
+unsuitable for other purposes than the stock-pot, and this
+stock is most useful in preparing sauces, giving a flavor
+not obtained in specially prepared stock.
+
+A French cook keeps at hand the different essences required
+to combine in sauces, such as a Mirepoix (vegetable flavor),
+which is made by cutting into dice an onion, carrot, and
+turnip, celery, parsley, bay-leaf and bits of meat, frying
+them in fat pork or butter, then adding a little water, and
+simmering an hour, or until the flavor of the vegetables is
+extracted; a Spanish sauce, made by adding stock instead of
+water to the fried vegetables; a veal or white stock; a
+brown and a white roux, and glaze.
+
+ [Sidenote: General directions.]
+
+The flavor of vegetables can easily be obtained by frying them
+in the butter used in making the roux, before the flour is
+added. In preparing sauces with milk, use a double boiler, or
+set a small saucepan into a larger one containing water. The
+milk will be scalded when the water boils in the double
+boiler. Brown sauces need long slow cooking to blend the
+flavors. If the butter rises to the top add a little more
+stock or milk; stir it well until it boils, and it will then
+become smooth again. Do this just before serving. Have always
+a small strainer at hand, and strain sauces so there will be
+no lumps in them. If stock is not at hand, substitute beef
+extract, which comes in jars, using it in the proportion of
+one teaspoonful of extract to a cupful of hot water. In this
+case fry vegetables in the roux.
+
+
+
+=GLAZE=
+
+Glaze is much used in high-class cooking. It gives to meats a smooth and
+polished surface. Cold meats to be garnished for suppers are much
+improved in appearance by being glazed. Glaze is also added to sauces to
+give them richness and flavor.
+
+To make glaze: Take good consomme of beef (or a white stock, when it is
+to be used for fowls or white meat), clear it, and reduce it to one
+quarter (or one quart of stock to one cupful). It will quickly boil down
+in an open saucepan and become like a thick paste. It will keep some
+time if closed in a preserve jar and kept in a cool place. When used,
+heat it in a double saucepan and apply it with a brush.
+
+
+=ROUX FOR SAUCES=
+
+One tablespoonful of butter; one tablespoonful of flour.
+
+Roux is used for thickening, giving body to sauces, etc. It is made by
+cooking together an equal quantity of butter and flour for about five
+minutes, or until the flour has lost the raw taste. When the roux is
+cooked, draw the saucepan to a cooler part of the range, and add the
+liquor (stock or milk) slowly, in the proportion of one cupful of liquor
+to one tablespoonful each of butter and flour, and stir until smooth. If
+the roux is for white sauce do not let the flour color. If for brown
+sauce, let it cook until brown, but be careful that it does not burn. If
+more flavor is wanted, fry a few slices of onion or other vegetables in
+the butter before adding the flour. Sauces thickened in this way are
+much better than those in which uncooked flour is used. In making roux
+do not use more butter than flour. Where more butter is required in a
+sauce, add it, in small pieces at a time, after the other ingredients
+are mixed with the roux. This will prevent an oily line forming.
+
+
+=WHITE SAUCE=
+
+ 1 tablespoonful of butter.
+ 1 tablespoonful of flour.
+ 1 cupful of milk.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1/4 teaspoonful of pepper.
+
+Put one tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan. When it bubbles add one
+tablespoonful of flour, and cook, stirring constantly, for five minutes,
+but do not let it color; draw it to a cooler part of the range and add
+very slowly, stirring all the time, one cupful of cold milk, and stir
+until perfectly smooth and a little thickened. Season with salt and
+pepper. Most of the white sauces are simple variations from this sauce.
+Water may be used instead of milk, and it is then called drawn-butter
+sauce. It can be made richer by adding a little more butter, in small
+pieces, one at a time, after the milk is in; also by adding the beaten
+yolk of an egg. If the egg is added remove the pan from the fire and let
+it cool a little before adding the egg; then cook for a minute, but do
+not let it boil, or the egg will curdle.
+
+The secret of making a good white sauce is in cooking the flour until
+the starch grains have burst, which removes the raw and pasty taste one
+finds where this care is not used. There is no difficulty in making it
+smooth if the milk is turned in slowly, as directed above. A common way
+of making this sauce is to rub the butter and flour together, and then
+stir them into the boiling milk, but this does not give as good a result
+as when a roux is made. The intense heat of frying butter cooks the
+flour quickly, while milk boiled long enough to cook the flour is
+changed in flavor. When this sauce is used as the basis of other sauces,
+the amount of salt and pepper must be varied to suit the requirements of
+the other ingredients.
+
+
+=WHITE SAUCE FOR FISH=
+
+Make a white sauce, using with the milk two tablespoonfuls of the water
+in which the fish is boiled. Boil in the water with the fish five
+cloves, three bay-leaves, one onion, eight peppercorns, and two
+tablespoonfuls of salt. This will give flavor to the fish and to the
+sauce.
+
+
+=EGG SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH=
+
+To a pint, or two cupfuls, of white sauce, add three hard-boiled eggs
+cut into slices or small dice, and, if liked, a teaspoonful of chopped
+parsley.
+
+
+=CAPER SAUCE=
+
+(BOILED MUTTON)
+
+Add to two cupfuls of white sauce four tablespoonfuls of capers. See
+also page 164.
+
+
+=OYSTER SAUCE=
+
+(BOILED FISH OR FOWLS)
+
+Scald the oysters in their own liquor until the edges curl. Make a white
+sauce using oyster-liquor instead of milk, or use half milk and half
+oyster-liquor. Add the oysters just before serving. One dozen oysters
+are enough for one pint of sauce.
+
+
+=CELERY SAUCE=
+
+(BOILED FOWLS)
+
+Cut one half cupful of celery into small pieces. Boil it in salted water
+until tender. Add the cooked celery to one cupful of white sauce.
+
+
+=LOBSTER SAUCE=
+
+Chop the meat of a lobster into coarse pieces. Add it to a pint of white
+sauce. Add also a little of the coral (which has been dried and pounded
+to a powder), and a little paprica.
+
+
+=VELOUTE AND ALLEMANDE SAUCES=
+
+(FISH AND VEGETABLES)
+
+Make a white sauce (page 277), using chicken or veal stock instead of
+milk.
+
+_Allemande._ Remove the Veloute from the fire; add two yolks beaten with
+one half cupful of cream or milk, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley,
+and a dash of nutmeg. Put on the fire a moment to thicken, but do not
+let it boil. Continue to stir for some moments after removing from the
+fire.
+
+
+=BECHAMEL SAUCE=
+
+Make a white sauce, using for liquor one half each of rich white stock
+and milk, or use stock alone. A slice of onion, carrot and turnip
+should be fried in the butter before the flour is added. A richer
+Bechamel is made by adding a little cream and chopped mushrooms.
+
+
+=POULETTE SAUCE=
+
+(FOR CHICKEN-BREASTS, SWEETBREADS, AND OTHER ENTREES)
+
+Take a pint of white sauce made with chicken or veal stock instead of
+milk. Beat four yolks with a cupful of cream. Remove the sauce from the
+fire, and add it slowly to the eggs and cream, stirring all the time.
+Put it again on the fire a moment to thicken; but do not let it boil, or
+it will curdle. Add one tablespoonful of butter slowly, a small piece at
+a time, the juice of half a lemon, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley,
+and a dash of nutmeg. Serve at once. Do not put the sauce together until
+it is time to serve, as it is likely to curdle after the eggs and
+lemon-juice are in. Stir constantly, and for a moment after removing
+from the fire.
+
+
+=VILLEROI=
+
+(TO USE FOR EGGS VILLEROI, AND FOR COATING COLD MEATS THAT ARE TO BE
+HEATED AGAIN)
+
+Put in a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter and a slice of onion; fry
+for a few moments, but not brown. Remove the onion, and add two
+tablespoonfuls of flour; cook but do not brown the flour. Dilute with
+two cupfuls of stock, and boil, stirring constantly until the sauce is
+very thick. Season with one half teaspoonful of salt, one quarter
+teaspoonful of pepper, a dash each of cayenne and nutmeg; remove from
+the fire, and add the yolks of four eggs beaten with one half cupful of
+cream or milk. Place again on the fire, and let thicken until quite
+stiff and elastic. Do not let it boil after the eggs are added, or it
+will curdle; stir constantly. When it is beginning to cool pour it over
+the articles it is to coat, or roll the articles in it as the receipts
+direct. Chopped parsley, truffles, and mushrooms may be mixed with this
+sauce, if desired. The thick sauce left from coating the articles may
+be diluted with stock or milk, and served with them. This amount of
+sauce is sufficient to coat and to give diluted sauce for a dozen eggs
+villeroi.
+
+
+=HOLLANDAISE=
+
+(BOILED FISH, ASPARAGUS, CAULIFLOWER)
+
+In a saucepan or bowl rub to a cream one half cupful of butter; add the
+yolks of four eggs, and beat well together; then the juice of half a
+lemon, one half teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of cayenne; then add
+slowly one cupful of hot water; mix well, and set it into a saucepan of
+hot water. Stir constantly until the sauce becomes like a thick cream.
+Do not let it boil. Remove from the fire, and continue to stir for a few
+minutes. It should be creamy and consistent. It is one of the best
+sauces to use with fish. It is also good cold with cold fish or meats.
+
+
+=CHAUDFROID SAUCE=
+
+(FOR COVERING COLD CHICKEN OR MEATS WHICH ARE TO BE SERVED COLD)
+
+Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a saucepan; when it bubbles add
+two tablespoonfuls of flour. Let it cook well, but not brown; stir all
+the time. Add two cupfuls of chicken or of veal stock, and stir until it
+is well thickened. Season with salt and pepper. Then add a half box, or
+one ounce, of gelatine which has soaked an hour in a half cupful of cold
+water. Stir until the gelatine has dissolved. Strain the sauce, and let
+it just begin to stiffen before using it. Put a little on ice to see if
+it will be of the right firmness. If it is too stiff add a little more
+stock; if not hard enough add a little more gelatine. It needs to be
+only firm enough to hold its place well without running.
+
+A yellow color can be given it by adding the yolks of three eggs just
+before removing it from the fire. A brown chaudfroid, which is used for
+game and dark meats, is made by browning the roux, diluting it with beef
+stock; and a deeper color can be obtained with a few drops of kitchen
+bouquet. This sauce, poured over boned chicken or other meats, gives
+them a smooth, even surface. They can then be elaborately decorated with
+truffles, making ornamental cold dishes for suppers. Before covering a
+galantine with chaudfroid fill any irregularities on the surface of the
+meat with a little of the sauce which has been placed on ice to set. The
+surface can in this way be made perfectly even, so when the sauce is
+turned over it the galantine will be smooth. (See picture, page 192.)
+
+
+=BROWN SAUCE=
+
+Put a tablespoonful of chopped onion and a tablespoonful of butter in a
+saucepan on the fire. Let them both become brown; then add a
+tablespoonful of flour, and brown that also. Stir all the time. Add a
+cupful of beef or brown stock, and cook until the sauce is a little
+thickened. Season with pepper and salt. Strain it to remove the onion. A
+sauce poivrade is made by adding to the brown sauce, at the same time
+that the stock is put in, a cupful of claret, two cloves, a bay-leaf, a
+little thyme and parsley. In place of claret, a teaspoonful of mustard,
+the juice of half a lemon, and a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar gives a
+Robert sauce.
+
+
+=ESPAGNOLE=
+
+(CHOPS, CUTLETS, CROQUETTES, AND SEASONING FOR OTHER SAUCES)
+
+ 2-1/2 cupfuls of stock or consomme.
+ 1 tablespoonful of gelatine.
+ 4 tablespoonfuls of butter.
+ 4 tablespoonfuls of flour.
+ 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped onion.
+ 1 tablespoonful of chopped lean ham.
+ 1 tablespoonful each of chopped carrot and celery.
+ 1 bay-leaf.
+ 3 cloves.
+ 1 piece of parsley.
+ 1 piece of mace.
+ 1 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of pepper.
+
+Soak the gelatine in a half cupful of stock. Put the butter in a
+saucepan; when hot add the chopped vegetables and ham, and let them
+brown; then add the flour, and let that brown. Stir constantly so it
+will not burn. When well browned add slowly the stock, then the herbs,
+spices, salt, and pepper, and let cook for five minutes. Cover the
+saucepan. Set it into a larger one containing hot water. Draw it to the
+side of the range to simmer slowly for two hours. Then stir in the
+soaked gelatine, and let stand another half hour. When ready to serve
+skim off the fat and strain. If a stock made with knuckle of veal is
+used, the gelatine will not be needed. It is used to give smoothness.
+This is the richest of the brown sauces, and in French cooking is used
+as the basis, or seasoning, for them all. If too thick dilute with
+stock.
+
+
+=CHAMPAGNE SAUCE (HAM)=
+
+Put in a saucepan one cupful of champagne, two cloves, six peppercorns,
+one bay-leaf, one teaspoonful of sugar. Let them infuse for five minutes
+over the fire; then add a cupful of Espagnole or of brown sauce, and a
+little mushroom liquor if convenient. Let it simmer for ten minutes and
+strain.
+
+Any white wine may be used instead of champagne.
+
+
+=PIQUANTE SAUCE=
+
+(BAKED FISH, ROAST AND BROILED MEATS)
+
+ 2 cupfuls of brown stock.
+ 4 tablespoonfuls of butter.
+ 2 tablespoonfuls of flour.
+ 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar.
+ Dash of cayenne.
+ 1 tablespoonful of chopped onion.
+ 1 tablespoonful of chopped capers.
+ 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped pickle.
+ 1 teaspoonful of sugar.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1 teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar.
+
+Put the butter in a saucepan, and when it begins to brown add the flour,
+and stir until it is well browned, but do not let it burn. Draw to a
+cooler place on the range, and slowly add the stock, stirring
+constantly, add salt and cayenne, and let simmer for ten minutes. In
+another saucepan boil the vinegar, onion, and sugar rapidly for five
+minutes; then add it to the sauce, and at the same time add the capers,
+pickle and tarragon vinegar. Stir well, and let cook for two minutes to
+heat the pickle. If the sauce becomes too thick dilute it with a little
+water. For piquante sauce No 2, to two cupfuls of Espagnole sauce add
+capers and pickles.
+
+
+=SOUBISE SAUCE=
+
+(FOR CHOPS)
+
+Fry three or four onions until soft in a tablespoonful of butter; press
+them through a strainer, and mix with a cupful of brown sauce.
+
+
+=HORSERADISH SAUCE=
+
+(ROAST OR BOILED BEEF)
+
+Mix together two tablespoonfuls of soft white crumbs of bread and two
+tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish. Cover them with cream or milk, and
+let soak for two hours. Then rub them through a sieve, and add one
+quarter teaspoonful of salt, one quarter teaspoonful of sugar, and two
+tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Enough milk should be used to give it the
+consistency of cream. This sauce will keep in a cool place for several
+days.
+
+
+=MUSTARD SAUCE=
+
+(CORNED BEEF, BROILED AND ROASTED MEATS)
+
+Make a roux of one tablespoonful of butter and one teaspoonful of flour.
+Add to it
+
+ 1 cupful of stock.
+ 1 tablespoonful of French mustard.
+ 1 tablespoonful of vinegar.
+ A dash of cayenne.
+ 1 teaspoonful of dry English mustard.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful salt.
+ 1 teaspoonful of sugar.
+
+Cook slowly for ten minutes.
+
+
+=CURRY SAUCE=
+
+(FOR EGGS, CHICKEN, ETC.)
+
+Put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan. When it bubbles add a
+teaspoonful of onion-juice, and a tablespoonful of curry powder mixed
+with two tablespoonfuls of flour. Let it cook a few minutes, and add
+slowly two cupfuls of milk. Stir constantly.
+
+
+=OLIVE SAUCE=
+
+(DUCKS)
+
+ 1 dozen stoned olives.
+ 1 cupful of brown stock.
+ 1 tablespoonful of butter.
+ 1 tablespoonful of flour.
+ 1 tablespoonful each of chopped onion and carrot.
+ 1 clove.
+ 1 teaspoonful of salt.
+ Dash of pepper.
+
+Put the butter in a saucepan; when it bubbles add the chopped onion and
+carrot and let them brown; then the flour and let that brown. Then add
+slowly the stock; season with salt, pepper and one clove; let simmer for
+twenty minutes and strain. Stone the olives, leaving the meat in one
+piece; boil them in a little water for half an hour. Add the cooked
+olives to the strained sauce, and cook for five minutes; or, dilute a
+cupful of Espagnole sauce with a cupful of brown stock, and add the
+cooked olives. If brown sauce is not at hand, use extract of beef from
+jar (one teaspoonful of extract to one cupful of hot water). If the
+sauce gets too thick dilute it with a little stock.
+
+
+=TOMATO SAUCE=
+
+(MEATS, CROQUETTES AND ENTREES)
+
+ 2 tablespoonfuls of butter.
+ 1 tablespoonful of flour.
+ 1 tablespoonful each of carrot and onion.
+ 1/2 can of tomatoes.
+ Parsley.
+ 1 bay-leaf.
+ 3 cloves.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1/4 teaspoonful of pepper.
+
+Put one tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan; add the chopped onion and
+carrot, and let slightly brown; add the flour and cook five minutes,
+stirring constantly. Then add the tomatoes, cloves, bay-leaf, salt and
+pepper. Cook slowly for half an hour, or until the tomatoes are soft and
+reduced to right consistency. Then add a tablespoonful of butter (a
+small piece at a time to prevent an oily line); strain; add more salt
+and pepper if necessary.
+
+
+=MUSHROOM SAUCE=
+
+(USING CANNED MUSHROOMS)
+
+Make a brown roux, using one tablespoonful each of butter and of flour;
+add a cupful of stock and a half cupful of liquor from the can of
+mushrooms. Cook for five minutes, stirring all the time; then add one
+can of drained mushrooms, a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, a half
+teaspoonful of salt and a quarter teaspoonful of pepper. Let the
+mushrooms become well heated; then remove from the fire and stir in the
+yolk of one raw egg rubbed with a teaspoonful of butter. Stir the hot
+sauce until the egg is set; add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and
+serve; or a half teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet may be used and the egg
+and parsley omitted.
+
+This sauce may be served on the same dish with beefsteaks, fowls, etc.,
+and the mushrooms laid evenly, top side up, around the meat as a
+garnish.
+
+It may be made a white sauce by making a white roux, using white stock
+and leaving out the kitchen bouquet. The mushrooms are sometimes cut
+into halves or quarters.
+
+
+=MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE=
+
+(BROILED FISH AND STEAKS)
+
+ 2 tablespoonfuls of butter.
+ 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley.
+ 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of pepper.
+
+Rub the butter to a cream; add salt, pepper, and parsley chopped very
+fine; then the lemon-juice slowly. Spread it on broiled meat or fish;
+let the heat of the meat melt the butter. The dish must not be put in
+the oven after the sauce is spread, or the parsley will lose its
+freshness and color. This sauce, which greatly improves as well as
+garnishes broiled meat, can be mixed and kept for some time in a cool
+place. Soften a little before using so it will spread evenly, and be
+quickly melted by the hot meat.
+
+
+=MINT SAUCE=
+
+(SPRING LAMB)
+
+1 bunch of mint; 1 tablespoonful of sugar; 3/4 cupful of vinegar. Rinse
+the mint in cold water; chop it very fine. Dissolve the sugar in the
+vinegar; add the mint and let stand for an hour, to infuse before using.
+If the vinegar is too strong, dilute it with cold water. If the sauce is
+wanted hot, heat the vinegar and sugar, and stir in the chopped mint
+just before serving.
+
+
+=BREAD SAUCE=
+
+(PARTRIDGES, QUAIL, GROUSE)
+
+Sift two cupfuls of dry bread-crumbs. Put on the fire a pint of milk and
+a small onion sliced. When the milk is scalded remove the onion, and add
+enough of the fine crumbs to thicken it. Season with a tablespoonful of
+butter, a half teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper and of nutmeg. Put
+the coarse crumbs into a pan with a tablespoonful of butter and saute
+them a light brown, stirring all the time; add a dash of paprica; serve
+the fried crumbs on the dish with the game; serve the sauce in a boat.
+
+
+=JELLY SAUCE=
+
+(GAME AND MUTTON)
+
+Melt in a saucepan one tumblerful of currant or of grape jelly; add
+slowly one tablespoonful of butter. Let boil one minute; remove, and
+just before serving add one tablespoonful of sherry or of red wine.
+
+
+=CRANBERRY SAUCE=
+
+(ROAST TURKEY, CHICKEN, MUTTON)
+
+ 1 quart of cranberries.
+ 2 cupfuls of sugar.
+ 2 cupfuls of water.
+
+Pick over the berries carefully and wash in cold water. Put them in a
+porcelain-lined or granite-ware saucepan, with enough water to cover
+them. Cook until tender; then add the sugar, and remove as soon as the
+sugar is dissolved. It may be served hot or cold. If thoroughly cooked
+the skins improve the sauce. If strained and put in a mold to cool, it
+becomes a jelly. If the berries are carefully selected, and boiled
+slowly without being stirred, they will retain their shape, and the
+sauce will be clear and transparent.
+
+
+=APPLE SAUCE=
+
+(GOOSE AND PORK)
+
+Peel, quarter, and core six tart apples. Put them in a porcelain-lined
+or granite-ware saucepan, and cover with water. Boil until tender, then
+press them through a colander; add a teaspoonful of butter, a dash of
+nutmeg or cinnamon, and sweeten to taste. When used with meats apple
+sauce should be tart.
+
+
+=BEARNAISE=
+
+This is a very good sauce to use either hot or cold with meats and fish.
+It is very like Mayonnaise.
+
+ Yolks of 4 eggs.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of salt.
+ Dash of cayenne.
+ 4 tablespoonfuls of salad oil.
+ 1 tablespoonful of hot water.
+ 1 tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar.
+
+Beat the yolks; add the oil and water; stand the bowl in boiling water
+and stir until the eggs thicken; remove and add salt, pepper, and
+vinegar. It should be creamy and of the consistency of Mayonnaise. A few
+chopped capers, olives, and gherkins make it a good Tartare sauce; and a
+little tomato puree will make it a red Mayonnaise to use with cold
+boiled fish.
+
+
+=MAYONNAISE=
+
+ Yolk of 1 egg.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of salt.
+ Dash of cayenne.
+ 1 cupful of salad oil.
+ 1-1/2 teaspoonfuls of lemon-juice.
+
+Let the oil and egg be thoroughly chilled before beginning to make
+Mayonnaise. In summer it is well to stand the soup-plate in which the
+dressing is being mixed in a dish of cracked ice; stir constantly with a
+silver fork or a wooden spoon. Have the yolk entirely free from any
+white of the egg; add drop by drop the oil. The success depends on
+adding the oil slowly at first. It is well to spend half the time in
+incorporating the first two spoonfuls of oil; after that it can be added
+in larger quantities. After the dressing has become a little thick,
+alternate a few drops of lemon-juice or of vinegar with the oil; a
+little tarragon vinegar gives good flavor. If mustard is liked, add one
+quarter teaspoonful of dry mustard. Add the salt and pepper last. If the
+sauce curdles, take another yolk, and add slowly the curdled Mayonnaise.
+A few drops of ice water or a small bit of ice added to the mixture when
+it begins to curdle will sometimes bring it back.
+
+This dressing will keep for some time in a closed jar in the ice-box.
+The proportions given are right, but it is usually desirable to make a
+larger quantity. With care more oil can be added to the egg, which will
+give more sauce.
+
+A very safe mixture, and one recommended for summer, is made by using
+the yolk of a hard-boiled egg with a raw yolk. With this the dressing is
+more quickly made and seldom curdles. Lemon-juice makes a whiter
+dressing than vinegar, but it also makes it a little softer.
+
+
+=WHITE MAYONNAISE=
+
+Just before serving add to the above quantity of Mayonnaise one half
+cupful of very stiff whipped cream, or the white of one half an egg
+whipped very stiff.
+
+
+=GREEN MAYONNAISE=
+
+Take some green herbs, such as chervil, tarragon, chives, parsley, a
+leaf of spinach, lettuce or watercress, and pound them in a mortar with
+a little lemon-juice. Express the juice and add it to the Mayonnaise. It
+is then called Ravigote sauce. Mashed green peas may be used to give
+color and also more consistency to the sauce when it is to be used to
+cover cold fish. A little vegetable green coloring can be added if the
+color is not sufficiently deep, but a delicate color is preferable.
+
+
+=RED MAYONNAISE=
+
+Dry some lobster coral; pound it to a powder and rub it through a sieve;
+mix it with a little lemon-juice and add it to the Mayonnaise. Use a
+little carmine color if deeper shade is wanted. Or, color with
+well-strained tomato puree.
+
+
+=JELLY MAYONNAISE=
+
+Instead of yolks of eggs, use aspic jelly as a medium to hold the oil;
+mix the sauce the same as the ordinary Mayonnaise. Or, to a cupful of
+aspic jelly (see page 321) or chicken aspic add a cupful of oil, one
+tablespoonful of vinegar (one half being tarragon if convenient), a few
+drops of lemon-juice, salt, pepper, and cayenne; stir together all at
+once, the jelly being warmed enough to be liquid. Place it on ice and
+stir until it begins to set; keep it in a cool place. This jelly softens
+easily. It is used to coat fish or meats, and should be put on when a
+little soft. It will then make a smooth and polished surface. Keep the
+meats coated with the jelly on ice until ready to serve. It is used also
+for salads in forms, or Russian salads (see receipts).
+
+
+=MAYONNAISE WITH ARROWROOT=
+
+Smooth a tablespoonful of arrowroot in cold water; stir it over the fire
+until it becomes smooth, clear and firm like starch; when a little
+cooled, add salt, pepper, mustard, and two or three yolks, and beat
+until smooth; when cold add oil as in regular Mayonnaise. This mixture
+will not curdle.
+
+
+=TARTARE=
+
+(FISH AND COLD MEATS)
+
+To a cupful of Mayonnaise made with mustard, add one tablespoonful of
+capers, three olives, and two gherkins, all chopped very fine; also the
+juice expressed from some pounded green herbs, as in green Mayonnaise or
+Ravigote (see above); or chop the herbs fine and mix them in the
+dressing. A good Tartare sauce can be made by using tarragon vinegar
+and a little onion-juice when mixing the Mayonnaise, and adding parsley
+and capers, both chopped very fine, just before serving it.
+
+
+=AGRA DOLCE=
+
+(SOUR SWEET)
+
+(AN ITALIAN SAUCE USED WITH VENISON, SWEETBREADS, CALF'S-HEAD, AND
+MUTTON)
+
+Mix together two heaping tablespoonfuls of brown sugar, one quarter bar
+of grated chocolate, one tablespoonful each of shredded candied orange
+and lemon-peel, ten blanched almonds shredded, one half cupful of
+currants, and one cupful of vinegar. Let them soak for two hours. Then
+pour it over the cooked meat, and simmer for ten minutes.
+
+This receipt was obtained in Florence, where it is a well-known and
+favorite sauce.
+
+
+=BEURRE NOIR OR BROWN BUTTER SAUCE=
+
+(EGGS, CALF'S HEAD, CALF'S BRAINS, FISH)
+
+Put a quarter of a pound of butter in a saucepan and let it cook slowly
+until it has browned, then add three tablespoonfuls of hot vinegar, one
+tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and a dash of pepper and of salt.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+ENTREES
+
+
+Entrees are the dishes served between any of the regular
+courses.
+
+
+=CROQUETTES=
+
+GENERAL DIRECTIONS
+
+ [Sidenote: Shape.]
+
+ [Sidenote: How to serve.]
+
+Croquettes are simply minced meat mixed with a thick sauce,
+then rolled into shape and fried. Any kind of cooked meat, fish,
+shell-fish, hard-boiled eggs, and some kinds of vegetables
+may be served as croquettes. Croquettes may be plain, using one
+kind of meat alone, or made richer by combining with it
+sweetbreads, brains, mushrooms, truffles, etc. Whatever meat
+mixture is used, the rules for sauce, molding, and frying are
+the same. The croquettes may be shaped like cylinders, pyramids
+or chops. The meat should be chopped very fine. (An "Enterprise
+Chopper" is recommended.) They should be very soft and creamy
+inside, and should be fried to a light golden color only. Serve
+them on a napkin and garnish with parsley.
+
+[Illustration: CROQUETTES. (SEE PAGE 292.)]
+
+
+THE ENTERPRISE CHOPPER
+
+This simple machine minces meat very fine, and is useful in making
+croquettes, forcemeat for stuffings, etc. Where meat having much fiber
+is put in the chopper, it soon becomes clogged. The end piece can then
+be taken off, and the fiber clinging to it, which stops the holes, be
+removed. In making timbales the meat put through the chopper in this
+way, and then pounded, will sometimes do without being passed through a
+sieve.
+
+[Illustration: ENTERPRISE CHOPPER.]
+
+
+=SAUCE FOR CROQUETTE MIXTURE=
+
+(To this amount of sauce add two cupfuls of meat.)
+
+ 1 tablespoonful of butter.
+ 2 tablespoonfuls of flour.
+ 1 cupful of milk or cream.
+ 1 egg.
+ 1 teaspoonful of onion-juice.
+ 1 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1/4 teaspoonful of pepper.
+ Dash of cayenne.
+ Dash of nutmeg.
+
+Put the cream or milk in a double boiler and scald it. Rub the butter
+and flour together. Take this paste on a spoon and stir it in the
+scalding milk until it is dissolved from the spoon, and the sauce has
+become thickened and consistent. Add the seasoning; then remove from the
+fire and stir in a beaten egg (the egg may be omitted if desired). Place
+it again on the fire for a minute to cook the egg, but do not let it
+boil, and add two cupfuls of meat minced very fine.
+
+Pour this mixture on a flat dish, and set it away for two or more hours.
+It will then be stiffened and can be easily molded. If a mixture is used
+which absorbs the sauce, add more than the quantity given in receipt.
+The softer the mixture, the more creamy, and therefore the better will
+be the croquettes, and if allowed to stand long enough the molding will
+not be difficult.
+
+
+=TO MOLD CROQUETTES=
+
+Take a tablespoonful of the mixture (this will make a croquette of the
+right size; large ones are likely to crack open in frying); roll it
+lightly between the hands into a ball. Have a plentiful supply of
+bread-crumbs spread evenly on a board; roll the ball lightly on the
+crumbs into the shape of a cylinder, and flatten each end by dropping it
+lightly on the board; put it in the egg (to each egg add one
+tablespoonful of water, and beat together), and with a spoon moisten the
+croquette completely with the egg; lift it out on a knife-blade, and
+again roll lightly in the crumbs. Have every part entirely covered, so
+there will be no opening through which the grease may be absorbed. Where
+a light yellow color is wanted, use fresh white crumbs grated from the
+loaf (or rubbed through a puree sieve) for the outside, and do not use
+the yolk of the egg. Coarse fresh crumbs are used for fish croquettes,
+which are usually made in the form of chops, or half heart shape. A
+small hole is pricked in the pointed end after frying, and a sprig of
+parsley inserted. For lobster croquettes a small claw is used instead of
+the parsley. Cracker-crumbs are used where a smooth surface is wanted.
+Have all the croquettes of perfectly uniform size and shape, and lay
+them aside on a dish, not touching one another, for an hour or more
+before frying. This will make the crust more firm.
+
+The white of an egg alone may be used for egging them, but not the yolk
+alone. Whip the egg with the water, just enough to break it, as
+air-bubbles in the egg will break in frying, and let the grease
+penetrate.
+
+
+=TO FRY CROQUETTES=
+
+Let the fat become smoking hot; then test it with a piece of bread. If
+the bread colors while you count forty (twenty seconds), it is right. It
+is well to put the frying-pot on the fire an hour before it is needed,
+so it will be hot, and ready to be raised quickly to the right degree.
+After dipping the frying-basket in the fat to grease it, lay in it four
+croquettes so that they do not touch one another, and immerse them in
+the fat. Cook only long enough to attain a delicate color. Let them
+drain a moment over the hot fat; then lift them from the basket with
+the hand (if done quickly the hand will not be burned) and place on a
+brown paper on the hot shelf or in the open oven until all are ready. Do
+not fry more than four at one time, as more would reduce the heat of the
+fat too much. Let the fat become smoking hot before each immersion of
+croquettes. Hang the basket on a long iron spoon so the hand will not be
+burned by the spattering fat.
+
+
+=MATERIALS USED FOR CROQUETTES=
+
+
+CHICKEN CROQUETTES
+
+Chop the chicken very fine, using the white meat alone, or the dark meat
+alone, or both together. Season with salt, pepper, onion-juice, and
+lemon-juice. Chopped mushrooms, sweetbreads, calf's brains, tongue, ham
+or truffles are used with chicken, and a combination of two or more of
+them much improves the quality of the croquettes.
+
+
+VEAL CROQUETTES
+
+Veal is often mixed with chicken, or is used alone as a substitute for
+chicken. Season in same manner and make the same combinations.
+
+
+SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES
+
+Cut the boiled sweetbreads into small dice with a silver knife. Mix with
+mushrooms, using half the quantity of mushrooms that you have of
+sweetbreads. Use two eggs in the sauce.
+
+
+OYSTER CROQUETTES
+
+Scald the oysters; cut them into small pieces with a silver-plated
+knife.
+
+
+LOBSTER CROQUETTES (see page 138)
+
+
+FISH CROQUETTES (see pages 121 and 126)
+
+
+MEAT AND BOILED HOMINY CROQUETTES
+
+Equal proportions.
+
+
+MEAT, RICE, AND TOMATO CROQUETTES
+
+Equal proportions of meat and boiled rice: moisten with tomato puree.
+
+
+MACARONI CROQUETTES
+
+Boil the macaroni in salted water until tender; let it cool; then cut
+into pieces one quarter inch long, forming rings. To a cupful of the
+rings add one tablespoonful of grated cheese.
+
+The sauces to serve with croquettes are brown, Bechamel, Poulette, and
+Tomato.
+
+
+=TIMBALES=
+
+ [Sidenote: General directions.]
+
+Timbales are forms of pastry or of forcemeat filled with
+salpicon. They are made in individual, border, or cylinder
+molds. The receipts below give the rules for making the
+pastry, forcemeat, and salpicon, and the combinations. For
+forcemeat, the raw meat is used, and may be used alone or
+mixed with panada: in the latter case it is called Quenelle
+forcemeat. Cut the meat or fish in pieces (excepting chicken,
+which is scraped), and pound it in a mortar to separate the
+flesh from the fiber, then press it through a puree sieve.
+Do not chop the meat, as the fiber is not then so easily
+separated. If the meat pulp is mixed with panada, press it
+through the sieve again so the paste will be perfectly smooth
+and fine. Truffles are used in decorating the molds and in the
+salpicon. The little bits left from the decoration are chopped
+and used in the salpicon or in a sauce.
+
+[Illustration: HINGED MOLD AND INDIVIDUAL TIMBALE MOLDS.]
+
+[Illustration: PUREE SIEVE AND MORTAR.]
+
+
+=TRUFFLES=
+
+Truffles can be bought in tins, and as very little is used at a time
+they are not as expensive as at first appears. To preserve truffles left
+over in an opened can, drain them from the liquor and roll them in
+melted paraffine or in melted suet. With the air-tight covering which
+either of these things gives, the truffles can be kept in the
+refrigerator for an indefinite time.
+
+
+=CREAM CHICKEN FORCEMEAT=
+
+Cut the breast from a chicken or turkey, also the white meat from the
+wings; remove the skin and fat, and with a knife scrape the meat so as
+to free it from the sinews. Place the scraped meat in a mortar and pound
+it to a paste; incorporate into it gradually, while pounding, the white
+of an egg; this will moisten it a little so it will pass more easily
+through the sieve. After it is thoroughly macerated, take a little at a
+time and with the pestle or spoon rub it through a sieve; it passes
+through better when a little is worked at a time. Put the pulp in a
+bowl, season it with salt, pepper, and a dash of nutmeg. Set the bowl on
+cracked ice and stir in slowly (as you add oil to Mayonnaise) one or one
+and a half cupfuls of thick cream--some mixtures take more cream than
+others; stir continually, using a wire whip if convenient. When it is a
+consistent paste, try it by dropping a half teaspoonful in hot (not
+boiling) water and let it poach; if it is too thick add more cream, if
+too thin add a little beaten white of egg. The sample should poach for
+ten minutes, and when cut should be smooth and firm, but not tough.
+
+
+=CREAM FORCEMEAT, No. 2.=
+
+To one half pound of meat pulp add five ounces of butter, one whole egg,
+and four yolks, or the whites alone of four eggs if used with white
+meat; beat very thoroughly together; pass again through the sieve; place
+on ice and beat in slowly one pint of whipped cream--three quarters of a
+cupful of cream will make about the right amount after being whipped.
+
+
+=FISH CREAM FORCEMEAT=
+
+Scrape, pound, and pass through a sieve one pound of firm white fish.
+Put the pulp in a bowl, season with salt, pepper and cayenne; whip into
+it the whites of two eggs, and add slowly, beating all the time, about
+one and a half cupfuls of cream. Poach a small piece to see if right: if
+too thick add more cream, if too thin add more white of egg. A pretty
+decoration for fish timbale, especially when made of salmon, is lobster
+coral, dried and pounded to powder, and sprinkled on the buttered mold.
+Fish timbale is usually made in a solid piece and served as a fish
+course. With white fish serve a tomato sauce; with salmon a Poulette or
+a cream sauce, or Mayonnaise.
+
+
+=QUENELLE FORCEMEAT=
+
+To one cupful of meat-pulp, after it is rubbed through the sieve, add
+one half cupful of panada, one quarter cupful of butter, yolks of three
+eggs, salt, pepper, and dash of nutmeg. Stir well together and pass
+again through the sieve. Place on ice and add slowly one cupful of
+cream. Try by poaching a small piece to see if it is of the right
+consistency. A good white sauce or tomato puree may be substituted for
+the cream in some cases. This forcemeat is used the same as cream
+forcemeat.
+
+
+=BREAD PANADA=
+
+Soak the crumb of bread; express the water and place the bread in a
+saucepan on the fire. Stir it to a paste with milk or stock, and
+continue to stir until it leaves the sides of the pan.
+
+
+=FLOUR PANADA=
+
+Put a little water, milk or stock in a saucepan; add a little butter and
+salt, and stir in as much flour as will absorb the liquid. Stir
+constantly until it leaves the sides of the pan.
+
+
+=TO MOLD AND COOK TIMBALES=
+
+Rub the mold well with butter; ornament it with truffle, tongue, ham, or
+hard-boiled egg. Cut the truffle, or other article used for the
+decoration, in very thin slices and stamp it into fancy shapes with a
+cutter, or cut it with a knife. Arrange the pieces in some design on
+the mold; they will stay in place if the mold is well buttered. Put in
+the forcemeat carefully with a knife, press it well against the sides to
+force out any air-bubbles, and have a care not to displace the
+decoration. If the timbale is to be filled with salpicon, make a layer
+of the forcemeat from a quarter to three quarters of an inch thick,
+according to the size of mold, using enough to give stability to the
+form when unmolded; make it a little thicker at the base than at the top
+and leave a smooth surface inside; fill it with the salpicon and cover
+the top with forcemeat, pressing from the sides towards the center; draw
+the knife across the top so it will be smooth and even, and stand
+straight and firm when unmolded. Stand the mold or molds in a pan of
+water, covering them one half or a little more. Cover them with a
+greased paper and let them poach in a slow oven ten to fifteen minutes
+for small, and twenty minutes for large molds. If the center feels firm
+to the touch they are done. The water must not be allowed to boil; slow
+cooking is necessary to have them tender. Let the molds stand a minute
+in the water, then invert on a cloth to let the moisture drain off, and
+unmold them on the dish on which they are to be served.
+
+[Illustration: INDIVIDUAL TIMBALES.
+
+TIMBALES OF ANY FORCEMEAT; DECORATION OF TRUFFLES.]
+
+
+=SALPICON=
+
+Cooked veal, chicken, game, sweetbreads, calf's brains, livers, fish,
+oysters, lobster, mushrooms, truffles, tongue, etc., when cut into dice
+and mixed with a rich sauce is called salpicon. It is used for filling
+timbales, vol-au-vent, patties, croustades, etc. It may also be served
+in paper boxes, or shells, or fontage cups. It may be made of one kind
+of meat, but is usually a mixture of two or more, with mushrooms and
+truffles. The meats are cut into small dice and warmed with a sauce
+which goes well with the meats used. The sauce must be reduced until
+quite thick, and enough of it used to make the mixture very creamy. For
+dark meat use an Espagnole, brown or mushroom sauce; for white meat,
+Bechamel, Allemande or Poulette sauce.
+
+[Illustration: CHICKEN TIMBALE--FILLING OF SALPICON; DECORATION OF
+TRUFFLES.]
+
+
+=FONTAGE CUPS=
+
+(USED FOR OYSTER-CRABS, SALPICON, CREAMED SWEETBREADS, ETC.)
+
+Make a batter of one half cupful of flour, yolk of one egg, one quarter
+teaspoonful of salt, one tablespoonful of salad oil, and enough milk or
+water to make the batter thin. Let it stand for an hour or two. Beat it
+well together, and have the batter very smooth; strain it if there are
+any lumps. Have a pot of hot fat; place the fontage iron in the fat
+until it is thoroughly hot, then dip it in the batter, and hold it there
+a moment until a coating of batter has adhered; place it again in the
+hot fat until the cup is cooked a delicate color, and can be detached
+from the iron. Repeat the operation until all are made, and keep them in
+a warm dry place until used. This amount of batter will make twelve
+cups.
+
+[Illustration: FONTAGE IRON AND CUPS. (SEE PAGE 300.)]
+
+
+=PAIN DE VOLAILLE=
+
+Make a chicken cream forcemeat (see page 297). Butter individual timbale
+molds, decorate them with truffles, fill with forcemeat, and poach ten
+to fifteen minutes in slow oven. Serve with an Allemande sauce.
+
+Or, line the molds with forcemeat; fill them with salpicon made of the
+dark meat of the chicken and mushrooms; mix with Espagnole or a good
+brown sauce; cover the top well with forcemeat, and poach as directed.
+
+Or, use a charlotte russe mold; line it a half inch thick with
+forcemeat, and use the same salpicon, adding small egg balls or
+quenelles, a few pieces of tongue, and a truffle chopped very fine.
+
+Or, use a border mold for the forcemeat, and fill the center of the
+ring, when unmolded, with the salpicon.
+
+
+=QUENELLES=
+
+These are quenelle forcemeat formed into small balls, the balls rolled
+in flour and poached, then used in salpicon; or, with two tablespoons,
+the forcemeat may be molded into egg-shaped pieces, poached in hot
+salted (not boiling) water, and ranged on a socle; or they may be
+placed on a dish in a circle. The two latter forms of quenelles are
+served with a sauce as an entree. Fish quenelles with tomato sauce make
+a very good dish. Large quenelles for decorating dishes may be made by
+molding the forcemeat into fancy shapes with a knife on buttered white
+paper (the paper will become detached while they are poaching). The
+quenelles may be ornamented with truffles or tongue, using white of egg
+to make the decoration adhere. Use salted water for poaching them, and
+do not let it boil.
+
+
+=PALMETTES=
+
+Press forcemeat into rings or cutlet molds; partly poach them. Unmold,
+roll in egg and crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Serve with a sauce.
+
+
+=CELESTINES A LA MAINTENON=
+
+Take some quenelle forcemeat (see page 298). Add to it a little juice
+from a can of truffles, one truffle chopped fine, two tablespoonfuls of
+mushrooms chopped fine, and a few bits of ham, or tongue. Mix well
+together, and stir in enough cream to make it quite soft. Butter some
+cutlet molds, or some rings. Fill them with the mixture; smooth them
+with a knife, and place them on the bottom of a large saucepan. Pour
+enough boiling water to cover them carefully on the sides of the pan, so
+it will go into the pan without defacing the forcemeat; let them poach
+for five minutes without the water boiling. The cutlets will leave the
+molds, and rise to the top. Lift them out with a skimmer, and place on
+an inverted pan to cool. When perfectly cold, dry them lightly with a
+napkin, and cover each one with Villeroi sauce (see page 280). Set aside
+to let the sauce harden. Sprinkle with bread-crumbs; moisten with egg
+and cover with fresh crumbs grated from the leaf. Use a broad knife to
+handle them with when crumbing. Fry in hot fat, like croquettes, to an
+amber color. Serve with Bechamel or Poulette sauce.
+
+
+=BOUDINS ROUENNAIS=
+
+Line well-buttered individual molds with a cream forcemeat made of veal
+or chicken; fill the center with a forcemeat made of duck or any game.
+Cover the top with a white forcemeat, and smooth it off even with the
+mold. Poach them for ten minutes. Unmold, and let them cool; then cover
+with egg and fresh bread-crumbs, and fry in hot fat to an amber color.
+Serve with them an Espagnole or a brown sauce.
+
+
+=MACARONI TIMBALE=
+
+Cook until tender in salted water long pieces of spaghetti, or fine
+macaroni. Put it into the water slowly, and it can then be turned so it
+will not break. Lay the pieces straight on a napkin to cool. Butter well
+a dome-shaped mold. Wind the spaghetti around the mold, holding it in
+place, as you proceed, with a layer of forcemeat. Fill the center with
+boiled macaroni and cheese, mixed with a well-reduced Bechamel sauce; or
+fill the timbale with a salpicon of sweetbreads and mushrooms. Make the
+layer of forcemeat thick enough to give the timbale stability. Cover it
+with a greased paper, stand it in a pan of hot water, and poach in a
+slow oven for thirty minutes. This timbale may also be made in
+individual molds.
+
+[Illustration: MACARONI TIMBALE. (SEE PAGE 302.)]
+
+[Illustration: SPAGHETTI TIMBALES. (SEE PAGE 302.)]
+
+
+=HONEYCOMB TIMBALE=
+
+(A VERY SIMPLE LUNCHEON DISH)
+
+Boil in salted water large-sized macaroni. When cold cut it into pieces
+one quarter of an inch long, making rings. Butter a plain dome-shaped
+mold, and cover it with the rings. Fill the mold with minced uncooked
+chicken, turkey, or veal, mixed with cream sauce. Add three or four eggs
+to the creamed mince just before putting it into the mold. Unless the
+eggs are added, it will not have stiffness enough to hold in shape.
+Cover the mold with a greased paper. Place it in a pan of hot water, and
+poach in a slow oven for thirty minutes.
+
+This timbale may also be made of any cooked meat as follows: Put the
+meat through an "Enterprise" chopper. Make a sauce, using two
+tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour, a cupful of milk, and a cupful
+of stock. After the liquid is added to the roux put in a slice of onion
+and two dried mushrooms, one teaspoonful of salt, and one quarter
+teaspoonful pepper. Let it cook until a little thickened. Add half the
+strained sauce to the minced meat. Stir it over the fire until the meat
+is heated; remove from the fire, add two beaten eggs, and turn it into a
+a quart timbale mold, which is lined with macaroni in any of the forms
+given in illustrations. Cover the mold with a greased paper. Place it in
+a pan of hot water, and poach for twenty minutes. Serve the rest of the
+sauce with the cooked timbale.
+
+[Illustration: HONEYCOMB TIMBALE. (SEE PAGE 302.)]
+
+
+=A SIMPLE TIMBALE OF HALIBUT=
+
+Take a half pound of uncooked halibut. Cut it into fine pieces, pound it
+in a mortar, and pass it through a sieve. Mix a cupful of white
+bread-crumbs with a half cupful of milk, and stir until it makes a
+smooth paste; remove it from the fire, add the fish pulp, a half
+teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of paprica. Then beat in lightly, a
+little at a time, the whipped whites of five eggs. Fill buttered timbale
+molds with the mixture, and place them in a pan of hot water in a
+moderate oven for twenty minutes. This will fill a quart mold, or eight
+individual molds. Serve with a white or with a tomato sauce.
+
+[Illustration: FISH TIMBALE DECORATED WITH SLICES OF CUCUMBER PICKLE.]
+
+
+=PASTRY TIMBALE=
+
+Make a paste, using to one pound of flour three quarters of a pound of
+butter, four yolks, one half teaspoonful of salt, and one and a half
+cups of water. Work it well, roll it one quarter of an inch thick,
+cover, and set it aside for one hour. Butter a timbale-mold, and line it
+with the paste. If ornamentation is wanted, cut some noodle paste into
+fancy forms. Arrange the pieces in some design on the bottom and sides
+of the mold, and brush them with a little water before putting in the
+paste. With a cutter or knife stamp out a circle in the paste on the
+bottom of the mold, but do not remove it. Then with a buttered paper
+cover the whole inside surface of the paste. Fill the center with flour.
+Cover the top with buttered paper, buttered side up; then a layer of
+paste, and press it to the paste of the sides. Set it aside for half an
+hour. Bake it in a hot oven for fifty minutes. Unmold, take off the
+circle which was cut in the paste; remove the paper and flour. Brush the
+timbale all over, inside and out, with yolk of egg, and place it in the
+oven to brown. Fill it with salpicon.
+
+
+=POTATO AND FISH TIMBALE=
+
+(FOR LUNCHEON OR BREAKFAST)
+
+Butter a plain mold. Sprinkle it with white bread-crumbs. Fill it with
+mashed potato which has been seasoned and mixed with two or more egg
+yolks and some grated cheese. Bake it for forty minutes in a moderate
+oven. With a pointed knife cut around the top one and a half inches from
+the edges; lift off the piece, and with a spoon scoop out the potato,
+leaving a lining one and a half inches thick. Brush the inside with egg,
+and place it again in the oven to dry and brown. Fill the center with
+creamed fish; replace the top piece, and fill the cut with potato so as
+to confine the fish. Place a dish over the top, invert the mold, and let
+it stand a few minutes. It will then come out of the mold. Serve with a
+white sauce.
+
+
+=VOL AU VENT=
+
+Prepare a puff paste (see page 458). Roll it one and a half inches
+thick. Cut a circle six to six and a half inches in diameter, using as
+guide a pie-tin or cardboard, if a regular cutter is not at hand. Place
+it with care on a baking-tin, and cut a smaller circle around the top,
+one and a half inches from the edge, and two thirds through the paste.
+Paint over the top with yolk of egg, and bake it in a hot oven for
+thirty minutes. Do not open the oven door for the first fifteen minutes.
+When baked, lift off the inside circle. Cut out the uncooked paste,
+paint it over with white of egg, and place it again in the oven to
+brown. Keep the crust hot until ready to serve. Then fill with salpicon,
+and replace the cover, or small circle of paste.
+
+
+=PATTIES=
+
+Prepare patty shells as directed in puff paste receipt (page 460). Fill
+them with oysters (see page 134), with lobster (see page 140), or with
+any salpicon.
+
+
+=RISSOLES=
+
+Roll puff paste one eighth of an inch thick. Place on it at intervals of
+three inches from the edge and five inches apart, a teaspoonful of
+salpicon, or of creamed minced meat. Moisten with a wet brush the paste,
+and fold it over the balls of meat. With the finger press the paste
+together lightly around the meat, inclosing it like a small pie. Then
+with a patty or biscuit-cutter stamp out the rissoles in shape of
+half-circles, the ball of meat being on the straight side, and a border
+of paste an inch or more wide on the rounded side. Egg and bread-crumb
+them or not, and fry in hot fat. Serve on a folded napkin.
+
+
+=TO PREPARE SWEETBREADS=
+
+Soak the sweetbreads in cold water for an hour or more. Change the water
+several times, so that all the blood will be extracted, and leave the
+sweetbreads very white. Put them on the fire in cold water, and simmer
+(not boil) for twenty minutes. Then immerse them again in cold water.
+This is to parboil and blanch them. Remove all the pipes, strings, and
+fibers it is possible to do without breaking the sweetbreads to pieces.
+When half cold tie each one in a piece of cheese-cloth, drawing it
+tightly into an oval form, and place them under a light weight until
+cold. They will then be smooth and a uniform shape, and may be larded
+with fine lardoons if desired. Use a silver knife for cutting
+sweetbreads.
+
+
+=BAKED SWEETBREADS=
+
+Take parboiled larded sweetbreads, and place them on slices of salt pork
+in a baking-pan. Add enough stock to cover well the pan. Cook them in a
+hot oven for twenty minutes, basting frequently. Serve with a brown or
+with a mushroom sauce.
+
+
+=BRAISED SWEETBREADS=
+
+Place in a baking-pan a bed of vegetables cut in small dice, and a few
+pieces of salt pork. Lay parboiled sweetbreads on it. Add enough water
+or stock to cover the vegetables. Close the pan tight, and cook for
+forty to forty-five minutes. Uncover the pan the last fifteen minutes to
+let the sweetbreads brown. Paint them with glaze. Strain the liquor from
+the pan; thicken it with a brown roux, and serve it on the dish under
+the sweetbreads.
+
+
+=SAUTED SWEETBREADS=
+
+Cut the parboiled sweetbreads in slices and saute them in butter; serve
+with green peas.
+
+
+=FRIED SWEETBREADS=
+
+Roll the sweetbreads (either whole or cut in slices) in egg and crumbs;
+let them stand for a time, then fry in hot fat; dress them on a folded
+napkin and serve with them a Bechamel sauce. They may also be dipped in
+fritter batter and fried.
+
+
+=SWEETBREADS A LA POULETTE=
+
+Simmer the sweetbreads for thirty or forty minutes; blanch them, then
+cut or break them in pieces and place them on a dish. Pour over them a
+Bechamel or a Poulette sauce. Mushrooms and chopped truffles may be
+added if desired.
+
+
+=CHAUDFROID OF SWEETBREADS=
+
+Simmer the sweetbreads until cooked; blanch and tie them in cloth as
+directed above, or place them in muffin-rings under pressure until
+cold; cover them with a Chaudfroid sauce (see page 281). Place fancy
+bits of truffle on the top lightly, and when the sauce has set, paint it
+over with liquid aspic. Arrange them on a socle or on a mound of salad,
+and serve with them a Mayonnaise sauce and lettuce.
+
+
+=CALF'S BRAINS=
+
+Soak the brains for an hour in cold water; then simmer in water
+containing a tablespoonful of vinegar for twenty minutes; an onion,
+thyme, bay-leaf, salt and peppercorns in the water also will improve the
+flavor of the brains; place again in cold water to blanch; remove the
+skin and fibres, and cook by any of the receipts given for sweetbreads.
+The boiled brains may also be served with any of the following sauces
+poured over them: a plain white sauce; a white sauce with chopped
+mushrooms; a white sauce seasoned with mashed yolks of hard-boiled eggs,
+a little mustard, tarragon vinegar and chopped parsley, and a
+tablespoonful of chopped pickle added just before serving; a Vinaigrette
+sauce; a Hollandaise sauce; a tomato sauce; or a sauce made of browned
+butter and a dash of vinegar.
+
+
+=MARINADE OF BRAINS=
+
+Boil the brains; remove the skin and veins; cut them into pieces the
+size of half an egg; let them stand an hour in a marinade of oil,
+vinegar, onion, pepper and salt; then wipe and dip them into fritter
+batter and fry in hot fat. Arrange them on a napkin and serve with
+tomato sauce.
+
+
+=CALF'S HEAD A LA VINAIGRETTE=
+
+Place pieces of hot boiled calf's head in the center of a dish; split
+the tongue in two and lay it across two sides of the dish, and the
+brains on the opposite sides; garnish with parsley and serve with a
+Vinaigrette sauce, or with a Piquante sauce.
+
+=Vinaigrette Sauce= (COLD): Three tablespoonfuls of oil, one tablespoonful
+of vinegar, one teaspoonful each of grated onion, chopped parsley, and
+capers, one saltspoonful each of salt and pepper.
+
+
+=FALSE TERRAPIN=
+
+Cut boiled calf's head (see page 175) into pieces one inch square; break
+into pieces the boiled brains. Make a brown roux; add to it water in
+which the calf's head was boiled, in the same proportion as for white
+sauce; season with salt, pepper, and cayenne, and add a cupful of cream;
+then put in the pieces of meat, three or four chopped hard-boiled eggs,
+a few small egg balls, and a glass of sherry; serve very hot; there
+should be a half more sauce than meat.
+
+
+=CALF'S HEAD A LA POULETTE=
+
+Cut boiled calf's head into pieces one inch square; heat them in hot
+water; drain and pile them in the center of a hot dish; sprinkle over
+them a few small egg balls, and pour over the whole a Poulette sauce,
+using for the sauce water in which the calf's head was boiled in the
+place of chicken stock.
+
+
+=OYSTER CASES=
+
+Line buttered paper cases, or china individual cups, with a layer of
+fish quenelle forcemeat (page 298), or with the fish preparation given
+in receipt for fish pudding (page 123); scald some oysters in their own
+liquor until the gills curl; cut each oyster into four pieces and fill
+the center of the cup with them; pour over them a tablespoonful of
+Bechamel sauce, made with oyster-liquor in place of stock; cover the top
+with forcemeat, brush it over with butter and bake in a moderate oven
+for fifteen minutes.
+
+Cases of other combinations may be made in the same way; using mashed
+potato for the lining and any creamed meat for filling; or use hominy or
+rice with chicken, mushrooms, etc.
+
+
+=LIVER LOAF, OR FALSE PATE DE FOIE GRAS=
+
+Cut a calf's liver in pieces; pound it in a mortar and press it through
+a sieve; add to one cupful of liver pulp one quarter cupful of flour
+panada, one teaspoonful each of butter and salt; one half teaspoonful
+of pepper; dash each of cayenne and of nutmeg and allspice, and two
+eggs. Mix well together and pass it again through the sieve. Put the
+mixture into a well-buttered pint mold; place it in a pan of hot water
+in the oven for forty-five minutes or more. An ice-cream brick-mold
+makes a loaf of convenient shape. It may be served hot with a brown
+sauce; but is better cold with salad, or used like pate de foie gras. A
+loaf of any game may be made in the same way. The loaf may be made very
+ornamental by decorating it with pieces of truffle, ham, and white of
+hard-boiled eggs cut into diamond shapes and fitted together to look
+like blocks. To arrange this decoration use two molds of the same size;
+butter one of them and apply carefully the decoration; line the other
+with thin slices of larding pork and cook the liver or game mixture in
+it; when it is cold remove the pork, and this will leave it small enough
+to fit into the decorated mold. Fill the space between them with aspic
+jelly and let it become well set before unmolding the form.
+
+
+=CHICKEN LIVERS=
+
+Cut the gall carefully off the livers; dry them with a cloth and cut
+them in two or more pieces. Place them in a frying-pan with a
+tablespoonful of butter, and saute until cooked, or about five minutes.
+Turn them often, so they will not burn, and dredge them with a little
+flour; add one cupful of Espagnole, or of brown sauce, and one half
+cupful of Madeira; season with salt and pepper and let simmer slowly for
+ten minutes. If the color is not dark enough, add a few drops of caramel
+or of kitchen bouquet; serve with croutons around the dish, or in a
+croustade, or in fontage cups.
+
+
+=STUFFED MUSHROOMS=
+
+Take off the stalks from one pound of fresh mushrooms, peel the cups,
+using a silver knife, and drop them into cold water to keep them white
+(if exposed to the air they discolor). If they have to stand for some
+time put a little lemon-juice in the water; scrape the stalks, chop
+them and put them into a saucepan with one tablespoonful of butter and
+one half onion sliced; cook slowly for ten minutes, then add one
+tablespoonful of flour and cook that five minutes; add one cupful of
+stock and one half cupful of bread crumbs; season with salt, pepper, and
+a dash of cayenne. Fill the cups of the mushrooms with this mixture;
+sprinkle with crumbs and place them on circles of toasted bread one
+quarter of an inch thick and the size of the mushroom. Bake in moderate
+oven for fifteen minutes.
+
+
+=CHICKEN PUREE=
+
+Chop cooked chicken very fine; pound it to as much of a paste as
+possible; season with salt and pepper; mix it with half its quantity of
+Chaudfroid sauce (see page 281). Coat a mold with jelly (see page 323),
+and fill it with the mixture, which must be cold and beginning to set;
+when it has hardened, turn it onto a dish; garnish with lettuce and
+serve with it a Mayonnaise or a Bearnaise sauce. Game may be used in the
+same way. Ornamented individual timbale cups may also be used for
+molding the puree.
+
+
+=OYSTER-CRABS=
+
+Put into a saucepan two tablespoonfuls of butter and a gill of water,
+one teaspoonful of lemon-juice, a little salt and white pepper. When the
+liquid is warm, put a few of the crabs in at a time and cook until they
+begin to whiten, then skim them out and keep them in a warm place until
+all are cooked. The liquid must only simmer; if it is too hot the crabs
+will break open. The crabs should be just moistened with the sauce in
+which they are cooked. Serve in croustades, or in fontage cups (see page
+300).
+
+
+=ENTREE OF OYSTER-CRABS=
+
+Use for this entree individual shirred-egg dishes. Cut slices of bread
+one inch thick; with a biscuit-cutter stamp it into circles one inch
+smaller than the egg dish, and with a smaller cutter stamp out the
+center, making rings of the bread one inch thick, one inch wide, and
+one inch smaller than the egg dishes. Place the bread rings in the
+dishes and moisten them with cream; fill the space outside the rings
+with oyster-crabs cooked as directed above; spread one layer of crabs in
+the center of each ring and on them break an egg. Cover the whole with
+Bechamel sauce and sprinkle the top with grated Parmesan cheese. Place
+this in a hot oven just long enough to set the egg.
+
+
+
+TERRAPIN, FROGS' LEGS
+
+
+TERRAPIN
+
+ [Sidenote: Counts.]
+
+Terrapin measuring six inches or more across the bottom
+shell are called "counts." The largest do not exceed ten
+inches; the average size is seven inches, and weight three
+to five pounds. The counts vary in price from seventeen to
+eighty dollars a dozen, according to size and weight.
+
+ [Sidenote: Diamond backs.]
+
+The terrapin which are most esteemed, and which command the
+highest price, are the "Diamond Back," from the Chesapeake
+Bay. Probably it is the wild celery of this region which gives
+the especially prized flavor to the terrapin as well as to the
+Canvasback ducks taken there. Good terrapin, however, are
+taken in Long Island waters and all along the sea-coast.
+
+ [Sidenote: Season.]
+
+Terrapin burrow in the mud as soon as cold weather approaches
+and remain there until May, during which time they grow fat.
+They are caught during their season of hibernation, and are
+kept in cool, dark places packed in sea grass until wanted;
+the season for eating them being from December to April.
+Terrapin taken during the summer are rank in taste and unfit
+for food, and are confined in pens and fed on celery.
+
+The female terrapin is the most prized on account of its
+eggs, terrapin-eggs, as served in the stew, being considered
+a great delicacy.
+
+ [Sidenote: Cooking.]
+
+The Maryland style of cooking terrapin is one of the most
+esteemed. A simple way is that of the Southern negro, who
+places the "bird," as he calls it, over hot coals or in the
+oven until cooked, when the under shell comes off, and,
+removing only the gall, he eats the whole of the contents from
+the inverted upper shell, seasoning with butter, pepper, and
+salt. Before hibernating, the terrapin empties the stomach and
+is consequently clean, but a fastidious taste prefers to have
+the terrapin thoroughly washed, and the entrails and lights as
+well as the gall-sack removed.
+
+ [Sidenote: The gall.]
+
+It is of the greatest importance that the gall should be
+very carefully removed, for, if the sack be punctured or in
+any way injured, so that the liquid touches the liver or
+meat, its disagreeable bitter taste will infect the entire
+dish.
+
+
+=TO PREPARE TERRAPIN=
+
+Drop the live terrapin into hot water, and let it remain until the skin
+can be removed from the head and feet. Then remove, wash in several
+changes of water, take off the skin from the head and feet by rubbing it
+with a cloth, and return it to fresh scalding water to cook until
+tender. This is shown by pressing the feet between the fingers. They
+should be done in forty-five minutes to an hour. If a longer time is
+required, the terrapin is probably not a good one, and the meat will be
+stringy. Remove as soon as tender. When cold, cut off the nails, remove
+the shells, take out very carefully the gall-sack from the liver, the
+entrails, lights, heart, head, tail and white muscles. Separate the
+pieces at the joints, divide the meat into pieces an inch and a half
+long, and do not break the bones. Place the meat, cut into pieces, the
+terrapin eggs and the liver in a pan, cover with water, and boil again
+until the meat is ready to drop from the bones.
+
+
+=STEWED TERRAPIN, MARYLAND STYLE=
+
+Mash the yolks of eight hard-boiled eggs and mix them with two
+tablespoonfuls of best butter, rubbing them to a smooth paste. Put a
+pint of cream in a double boiler; when it is scalded, stir in the egg
+and butter until smooth; season with salt, white and cayenne pepper, a
+dash of nutmeg and allspice. Add a quart of terrapin prepared as
+directed above, and simmer for ten minutes, or until the terrapin is
+well heated. Just at the moment of serving add two tablespoonfuls of
+sherry or madeira; serve very hot. Terrapin is often served in
+individual metal cups made for the purpose, so as to insure its being
+hot; but with care to have all the dishes hot, the stew need not be
+allowed to get cold when served in ordinary deep plates.
+
+
+=TERRAPIN A LA NEWBURG=
+
+Put in a saucepan one quart of terrapin (prepared as directed, page
+312), a half pint of cream, and a tablespoonful of best butter. Let it
+cook a few minutes; then draw it aside, and add the yolks of five eggs
+beaten with a half pint of cream. Stir until the eggs are thickened; but
+do not let it boil, or it will curdle. Season with salt, white pepper
+and paprica. At the moment of serving, add two tablespoonfuls of sherry.
+Like all Newburg dishes this must be prepared only just in time to
+serve, or it will curdle.
+
+
+=FRIED FROGS' LEGS=
+
+Dip the skinned frogs' legs in milk; sprinkle with salt and pepper, and
+roll them in flour. Immerse in smoking hot fat until cooked to a
+delicate color. Serve on a napkin.
+
+
+=FROGS' LEGS A LA POULETTE=
+
+Saute the skinned frogs' legs in butter; cook some fresh mushrooms in
+the pan at the same time if convenient. Place on a hot dish with the
+mushrooms, and pour over them a Poulette sauce (see page 280).
+
+
+
+MUSHROOMS
+
+(SEE ALSO PAGE 45)
+
+
+When one has learned to distinguish a few varieties of the
+edible fungi, a delicious acquisition to the menu will be
+enjoyed.
+
+The author will not assume the responsibility of instructing how
+to distinguish the esculent mushrooms. There are books and
+colored charts which give explicit and reliable descriptions,
+and with these one can easily learn to know a few of them.
+Accidents are usually the result of carelessness or recklessness,
+many of the poisonous mushrooms being so attractive in appearance
+as to invite favor.
+
+Mushroom hunting is akin in pleasure to botanizing, geologizing,
+or the gathering of any natural history specimens. It is not
+always easy to reject the many unfamiliar kinds.
+
+
+ [Sidenote: How to gather.]
+
+In gathering mushrooms they should be cut, not pulled, and
+laid in the basket with the gills up, so the spores will not
+be lost. If the stem is perforated with fine holes it means
+that worms have bored it, and it should be rejected.
+
+ [Sidenote: The three most common varieties.]
+
+The most common varieties are the Agaracini--those having gills;
+the Boleti--those having pores; and puff-balls (Lycoperdaceae).
+All the puff-balls are edible, and those of the Boleti which
+have no tinge of red on the pore surface; but especial care
+must be used with the Agaracini, for it is said that all
+deaths from mushroom-poisoning have come from the Amanita,
+which is a genus of the gilled species, and is very common
+and abundant.
+
+ [Sidenote: The Amanita.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Antidote to poison.]
+
+The safeguard to other species of poison varieties is their
+bitter and acrid taste. This warning the poisonous Agaric
+does not give, but it has the distinguishing feature of a
+cup or volva at the base of the stern. This cup is some
+times below the ground, and should be carefully sought; and
+where any doubt is felt, the specimen should be rejected.
+The antidote to this poison, as given by Mr. Gibson, is one
+sixtieth grain doses of atropine in hypodermic injections.
+
+Authorities on mushrooms advise the amateur to first
+acquaint himself with the Amanita family.
+
+"Dr. W. A. Curtis found in North Carolina thirty-eight
+edible species of Agaricus, eleven of Boletus, nine of
+Polyporus, seven of Hydnum, and thirteen of Clavaria."
+
+The popular tests of the cap peeling, or the mushroom
+blackening a silver spoon when cooking, are worthless.
+
+ [Sidenote: Freshness.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Nourishment in.]
+
+Mushrooms are very short-lived, and are quickly attacked by
+insects and worms, and so rendered unfit for use. They also
+decay quickly, and should be rejected if not entirely sound.
+Many cases of illness are the result of this unfit condition.
+The same would be the case if unwholesome meat were eaten, but
+good meat is not condemned on that account. Mushrooms contain
+the same nutritive value as meat, and rank second to it in
+nitrogenous elements. They vary in flavor and in delicacy as
+much as vegetables.
+
+
+
+=COOKING MUSHROOMS=
+
+The simplest way of cooking mushrooms is usually the best, and this may
+be broiling, sauteing in butter, or stewing in a little cream sauce.
+These simple ways may be varied by seasoning with sherry, Madeira, or
+lemon-juice. Any meat stock may be used to stew them in, but many of the
+mushrooms are very juicy, and their flavor must not be lost by diluting
+them with too much liquor. They may be cut in pieces when used for
+sauces. When dried and powdered they make an excellent seasoning for
+sauces. Dried cepes may be bought at grocers', and are very useful to
+stew in sauces.
+
+It is better to cook mushrooms as soon as they are peeled, and to rinse
+them only as much as is necessary, as they lose some flavor by soaking.
+When they are to be used for garnishing, they are thrown into water with
+lemon-juice, one tablespoonful of juice to a quart of water, and are
+afterward boiled in the same water; this keeps them white. The water
+they are boiled in should be saved to use in sauces. Again, they may be
+put into a saucepan with butter and lemon-juice, and cooked (stirring
+frequently) for about five minutes. They are then covered to keep them
+moist and white until ready for use. Lemon-juice keeps them white, but
+the flavor of the mushroom is somewhat destroyed by it, and so it is not
+recommended for general practice. The French peel the caps with a fluted
+knife to make them more ornamental, but it is a difficult operation, and
+does not repay the trouble.
+
+"Mr. George Augustus Sala, in a discourse on 'Dinners Departed,' refers
+to the famous a la mode beef, served in the days of old at the 'Thirteen
+Cantons,' in Blackmore Street, Drury Lane, and of which Soyer was very
+fond. The dish was remarkable for its rich sauce, the concoction of
+which was a close secret. However, the former proprietor of the old
+eating-house confided the receipt to Mr. Sala. Thus: 'It was simply made
+from a particular mushroom, which he called "morella," and which I infer
+was the Morchella esculenta, described in botanical works. These
+mushrooms were gathered in the fields round about the metropolis,
+dried, reduced to powder, and then used to thicken the sauce and enhance
+the flavor of a la mode beef.'"
+
+
+=THE FAIRY RING CHAMPIGNON=
+
+(MARASMIUS OREADES)
+
+This is one of the most common and easily recognized mushrooms, and in
+their season enough for a sauce may be gathered in almost any dooryard.
+The difference between the real and the false fairy is easily
+distinguished, the former having the gills wide apart, and a little
+mound rising in the center of the cap, while the "false" have the gills
+close together and usually a depression in the center of the cap.
+
+If the "fairies" are dry when gathered soak them in water for a little
+while, and then saute or stew them. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a
+saucepan; when it bubbles add a teaspoonful of flour, and cook the flour
+a few minutes, but not brown it; then add a half cupful of water or of
+milk, stir until smooth, and add a pint of the "fairies." Simmer for
+fifteen minutes, season with salt and pepper. Pour this over softened
+buttered toast or over meat; use water to make the sauce if they are
+used with meat, and milk if served on toast; or cook them by sauteing
+them in a little butter, and serve them on softened toast.
+
+
+=THE AGARICUS CAMPESTRIS=
+
+This mushroom is one and two third inches in diameter; has a white or
+cream colored cap and purplish pink gills, the gills becoming brown at a
+later stage. When once learned they are unmistakable. It is a highly
+esteemed variety, and grows abundantly in meadows and pastures, but
+never in the forest. It is the mushroom generally found for sale in the
+markets.
+
+Cut off the stem near the cup, peel them, and lay them with the gills up
+on a dish and sprinkle them with salt. After a little time they will be
+quite moist; then stew them in a sauce, the same as given above for the
+"fairies." They may also be sauted in butter, or be broiled. To broil,
+lay them on a fine wire broiler; turn the gills first to the coals for a
+few minutes; then turn the other side, and place a piece of butter on
+each one. Serve on toast. The fire for broiling mushrooms should not be
+very hot or bright.
+
+
+=AGARICUS PROCERUS=
+
+Remove the scurf spots, and broil the same as given above. Use plenty of
+butter. Serve on a dish with meat or on toast, as preferred.
+
+
+=AGARICUS RUSSULA=
+
+This mushroom is of various colors. It is found in woody paths and
+clearings. It is particularly subject to the attack of worms, and must
+be carefully scrutinized. The noxious Russulas have a bitter taste, and
+in appearance resemble closely the esculent ones, so care is required to
+discriminate them. Wash them well, peel, and broil as directed for the
+Campestris. Lay them under a broiled steak, so they will absorb the
+juices of the meat.
+
+
+=COPRINUS COMATUS AND COPRINUS ATRAMENTARIUS=
+
+These grow in masses in barnyards, gardens or any rich earth, and in
+decomposition become a soft black paste. They should be gathered at the
+white or pink stage. Fry them in butter or stew them with butter and a
+little milk or cream. They are very juicy, and do not need much liquor
+added to stew them.
+
+
+=THE BOLETI=
+
+This species is of a distinctly different character from the Agaracini
+or gilled mushrooms. The cap is more solid, being filled with a mass of
+vertical tubes or pores. Some Boleti are as large as six to eight inches
+in diameter, one of them making a meal for several people. Any of this
+class which have any tinge of red on the under surface should be
+rejected.
+
+Remove the skin and pores, and either saute the caps in butter, or dip
+them in fritter batter, or egg and crumb them, and fry in smoking-hot
+fat. They may also be stewed in a white sauce, but they are very juicy,
+and need but little extra liquor. These mushrooms must be carefully
+examined for insects, as they are quickly attacked.
+
+
+=PUFF BALLS=
+
+All are edible when gathered at the white stage. Cut them in slices one
+half inch thick. Either saute them in butter, or dip them in beaten egg,
+and fry in hot fat or cook on a griddle. Season with pepper and salt.
+
+
+=MORCHELLAE ESCULENTAE=
+
+These mushrooms resemble none but those of the same genus, and all of
+them are edible. They are hollow, the exterior resembles a honey-comb,
+and they are found in open woods and at the base of trees on lawns.
+Great use is made of all the Morels in the French kitchen, and they are
+much prized by epicures.
+
+Morels are usually stuffed with chicken, veal, or other meat, chopped
+very fine and highly seasoned. The stem is opened to admit the
+forcemeat, then pressed together again. Lay them on slices of bread, and
+bake in a moderate oven for ten minutes, or until tender; baste them
+with butter while cooking, and sprinkle them with salt and pepper. Wash
+the Morels well before stuffing them.
+
+
+=HYDNUM CAPUT MEDUSAE=
+
+Cut the fungus into pieces, and simmer it in a little water; season with
+butter, salt, and pepper, and add a little cream. When cooked, pour the
+mixture over croutons, or saute the pieces in butter; add a little
+sherry just before removing from the fire, and serve on softened toast.
+
+
+=CLAVARIA=
+
+Separate the branches, and stew in white sauce; or saute them in butter,
+seasoning with lemon-juice, salt, and pepper.
+
+
+=TO DRY MUSHROOMS=
+
+Place them in a saucepan, and cook with gentle heat until the moisture
+they give is evaporated; then place them on a hot shelf until they are
+thoroughly dry. Pound them to powder in a mortar, and place the powder
+in well-closed preserve jars.
+
+
+=SCALLOPED MUSHROOMS=
+
+Make a roux of one tablespoonful each of butter and flour. Add two
+cupfuls of chicken broth or of white stock; add the chopped stalks of a
+pint of mushrooms; reduce the sauce one half; add a tablespoonful of
+chopped parsley, pepper, and salt. Turn this sauce into a shallow
+baking-dish. Press into it as many mushrooms as will fit into the dish,
+placing them close together, with the gills up. Put a piece of butter on
+each one; sprinkle the top with crumbs, and place in the oven for five
+to eight minutes. Serve in the same dish.
+
+
+=MUSHROOMS A LA POULETTE=
+
+Stew the mushrooms in a little water with a tablespoonful of butter;
+season with pepper and salt. When ready to serve, add a little milk or
+cream; remove from the fire, and stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs;
+replace on the fire for a minute to thicken the eggs, and serve at
+once.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+ASPIC JELLY, FANCY MOLDING, SUPPORTS
+
+
+ [Sidenote: Uses.]
+
+Aspic is very useful in the preparation of cold dishes, and
+much care should be given to having it perfectly clear and
+well flavored. The second one of the two receipts given
+below is so simple that the most inexperienced cook can
+easily make it. With aspic, cold meats and salads can be
+made into most attractive dishes; and it is well worth while
+to learn and ornamenting with it. (See opposite pages 326,
+328.)
+
+
+=ASPIC=
+
+ 1 fowl.
+ 1 shin of beef.
+ 1 knuckle of veal.
+ 4 cloves.
+ 1 bay-leaf.
+ 2 onions.
+ 1 carrot.
+ 1 stock of celery.
+ 1 turnip.
+ 1/2 package Cox's gelatine.
+ 1 cupful of sherry or Madeira.
+
+Put the chicken, beef, and veal in a pot. Cover them well with cold
+water, and let simmer for five or six hours, with the pot covered
+closely. An hour before removing from the fire, add the carrot cut into
+dice, the cloves, and bay-leaf. Fry in butter the onions and celery (cut
+into pieces) to a dark brown, and add them to the stock at the same
+time. Remove from the fire, strain, and add one half package of gelatine
+(which has been soaked for an hour in one cupful of water) and one
+cupful of sherry or Madeira. Stir until the gelatine is dissolved. Set
+away until the next day. There should be two quarts of jelly. If it is
+not solid enough to stand, more gelatine may be added at the time of
+clearing. Boiling down jelly will not make it more firm.
+
+
+=TO CLEAR ASPIC=
+
+Remove all the grease from the top of the jelly, and wipe it off with a
+cloth wet in hot water, so every particle of grease will be removed.
+Stir into the cold jelly the beaten whites and the shells of three eggs
+(do not froth the egg). Put it on the fire, and continue to stir until
+it boils. Let it boil for five minutes; then strain it through a double
+cloth. If not perfectly clear, strain it a second time. Let the jelly
+drain through the cloth without pressure.
+
+
+=QUICK ASPIC=
+
+Put into a saucepan one and a half cupfuls of cold water, a
+tablespoonful each of chopped carrot and celery, a slice of onion, sprig
+of parsley, one bay-leaf, and three cloves; add also one teaspoonful of
+beef extract (obtained in jars) dissolved in one cupful of hot water.
+Cover, and let simmer for half an hour; then add one half box of Cox's
+gelatine, which has been soaked in one half cupful of cold water for one
+hour. Stir until the gelatine is dissolved. Season with salt and pepper.
+A tablespoonful of sherry improves the flavor. If a deeper color is
+wanted add a few drops of kitchen bouquet or of caramel. Strain through
+a double cloth. If it is for molding it can be used at once, as there is
+no grease to be removed. If for garnishing, turn it into a shallow pan
+to set. It can be stamped or cut into fancy shapes more easily if cooled
+in layers of the right thickness. Gelatine added to a good, clear
+consomme will give the same results. Observe always the proportion of
+one box, or one and a half ounces, of gelatine to one and a quarter
+quarts (five cupfuls) of liquor. This simple method of making aspic is
+very quick, and is entirely satisfactory.
+
+
+=CHICKEN ASPIC OR JELLY=
+
+Boil a fowl as directed for chicken stock (page 100), or boil a chicken
+or knuckle of veal, as directed for white stock (page 99). Let the stock
+cool, take off the grease, then clarify the stock. If veal has been
+used, no gelatine will be needed. If chicken only has been used in
+making the stock, add to each quart of hot clarified stock three
+quarters of a box of Cox's gelatine which has been soaked one hour in a
+half cupful of cold water. Stir until the gelatine is dissolved. This
+will make a very clear, light-colored jelly, good for molding, salads,
+chicken, etc.
+
+
+=ASPIC CROUTONS=
+
+When jelly is to be used for garnishing, pour it into a square shallow
+pan one and a half inches deep. When it has thoroughly set, turn it onto
+a slightly dampened napkin spread on a board in a cool place. Dip a
+knife into hot water. Wipe it dry, and cut the jelly in strips the same
+width as the thickness of the jelly, then cut it straight across, making
+squares, or diagonally across, making diamonds, or into triangles. These
+croutons will stand upright, and can be used for borders. If it is to be
+laid flat on the dish the strips need be cut only one quarter of an inch
+thick, and can be stamped with cutters into fancy shapes. Small molds
+may also be used for getting fancy forms of aspic. (See illustration
+facing page 328.)
+
+[Illustration: ASPIC CUT INTO ORNAMENTAL SHAPES FOR GARNISHING COLD
+DISHES.]
+
+
+=TO CHOP JELLY=
+
+Place the jelly on a cold plate, and with a knife cut it very slowly
+until it is of the right size. The chopped jelly is used to cover the
+top of meats, or to place like a wreath around it on the dish. It may be
+either fine or coarse, but each piece should be separate and distinct,
+and can be kept so if cut slowly in a cool place, and not allowed to
+become warm.
+
+
+=TO MOLD JELLY=
+
+(SEE ILLUSTRATIONS)
+
+Where the mold is to be only coated with jelly, first paste a piece of
+paper over the top of the mold; when it is firm, cut an opening in the
+paper, and pour in some cold, but liquid, jelly; and turn the mold on
+ice slowly, so that every part may be coated. Pour off any of the jelly
+that has not adhered to the sides; remove the paper, and lay in the
+material which is to fill the center of the mold. This method is
+employed where only a thin coating of jelly is required. Where it is to
+be an inch or more in thickness it is better to use a double mold as
+explained below.
+
+When molding jelly have a pan of cracked ice, and set the mold into it.
+The jelly will then quickly harden. The mold must be perfectly firm and
+upright, or the jelly will not stand straight when unmolded. Do not oil
+or grease a mold used for jelly. (See illustrations facing pages 326 and
+386.)
+
+[Illustration: 1. SMALL MOLDS FOR ASPIC. 2. MOLD WITH PAPER PASTED OVER
+THE TOP FOR COATING THE MOLD. (SEE PAGE 323.)]
+
+
+=TO UNMOLD JELLY=
+
+Dip the mold quickly into warm (not hot) water; wipe it dry, place the
+dish over the top of the mold, and turn them over together. If the jelly
+fails to slip out, rub the mold with a cloth wrung out of hot water. It
+takes only a low degree of heat to melt jelly, and if too much is used
+the fine points and edges will be destroyed. Do not unmold jelly until
+it is time to serve it. Do not shake the mold in trying to get it free,
+or the jelly is liable to break.
+
+
+=TO ORNAMENT MOLDS=
+
+Lay whatever fancy pieces are used for the decoration carefully in place
+on the bottom of the mold. With a spoon add only enough jelly to moisten
+them; if too much is used, the pieces will float out of place. Let the
+jelly harden and fix the decoration; then add as much as will make a
+layer one half inch thick; let that set; then place the material which
+is to fill the center. If it is a bird, or anything in one piece, add a
+little jelly to fix it in place; then fill up the mold. If the material
+is a soft substance, set in the double mold (see below); or, if one is
+not at hand, add a few spoonfuls at a time of the filling, leaving a
+space of one half an inch around the sides, and fill this with jelly.
+Proceed in this way until the mold is full, having the top covered
+with jelly, so that when unmolded it will form a complete case. If
+ornament is used on the sides of the mold, arrange the decoration when
+the mold is filled to the right height, dip the pieces in jelly to make
+them adhere, and cover them very slowly at first, so they will not float
+off. When the filling is to be in alternate layers with jelly, proceed
+in the same way, adding one layer at a time, and letting each one harden
+before the next is placed. The mold should not be moved while being
+filled; one layer should not become too hard before the next one is
+added, and no dampness must settle on them. Any of these causes will
+make the jelly liable to separate when unmolded. If the mold is placed
+on ice, as directed, the jelly hardens quickly, and the filling is soon
+accomplished.
+
+
+=DOUBLE MOLDS=
+
+For salads, and also in many cases for sweet jellies, it is easier to
+use a double mold. If one is not at hand two Charlotte Russe molds may
+be substituted, or any two molds or tins of the same shape, one of which
+is an inch smaller than the other. Place the larger one on ice, and pour
+into it enough jelly to make a layer on the bottom the same thickness as
+the width of space between the two molds. When it is set, place the
+smaller mold, filled with ice, on it; and fill the space between the two
+with jelly. When that has set, remove with a spoon the ice from the
+small mold, and pour in carefully a little warm water. It can then be
+easily lifted out. Be careful not to have the water too warm. Fill the
+space left by the small mold with the material to be used, leaving a
+space on top to cover with jelly--to encase it. Another way of molding
+jellies double, besides using the double mold and the method given above
+in ornamenting molds, is to fill the mold entirely with jelly, and when
+it has hardened, scoop out with a teaspoon, heated in hot water and
+wiped dry, enough of the center to give the space desired. This has to
+be done very carefully, as there is danger of the sides falling in. (See
+page 386.)
+
+
+=DECORATIONS FOR MEAT JELLY=
+
+
+DAISY DESIGN
+
+Cut a hard-boiled egg into slices one eighth of an inch thick. With a
+pastry-bag tube or a small round vegetable-cutter stamp circles from the
+yolk. Cut the white strips diagonally, so they form diamond-shaped
+pieces. Lay a round piece of yolk in the mold, and the white pieces
+around it to simulate a daisy; place small pieces of parsley beside it,
+and use the stem of parsley for the stem of the daisy. This decoration
+fits very well in a Charlotte Russe mold, or in individual molds. Make
+two or three daisies on the large mold, only one on the small ones.
+
+[Illustration: DAISY DESIGN FOR ASPIC JELLY FORMS. (SEE PAGE 326.)
+
+ 1. Yolk of hard-boiled egg.
+ 2. White of hard-boiled egg.
+ 3. Parsley leaves.
+ 4. Parsley stems.]
+
+[Illustration: SLICE OF WHITE OF HARD-BOILED EGG CUT INTO PETALS.]
+
+[Illustration: SLICES OF TONGUE IN ASPIC (EN BELLEVUE). (SEE PAGE 83.)
+
+DECORATED WITH HARD-BOILED EGG IN DAISY DESIGN. (SEE PAGE 326.)
+
+DISH GARNISHED WITH OLIVES CUT IN HALVES.]
+
+
+BERRY DESIGN
+
+Use capers, grouped like berries, along the stem. Use water-cress for
+leaves and parsley for stems. This design, being dark, looks well in
+chicken or veal jelly.
+
+[Illustration: BERRY DESIGN FOR ASPIC. (SEE PAGE 326.)
+
+ 1. Capers.
+ 2. Parsley or water-cress.
+ 3. Parsley stems.]
+
+
+TO DECORATE WITH TRUFFLES
+
+Slice the truffles very thin; stamp them into any form desired. Take
+each piece on a long pin, and place it in a well-buttered mold; or for
+jelly molds dip them in cold jelly, and they will then adhere to the
+sides of the mold. Arrange the pieces symmetrically in any design. If
+the truffle is cut in strips, make geometrical forms. Some dishes may be
+ornamented after they are unmolded by dipping the pieces of truffle in
+cold but liquid jelly, and then applying them. The latter is the method
+used for chaudfroid dishes, which are usually much ornamented. (See
+illustration facing page 320.)
+
+Green peas, carrots, beets, pickles, string-beans, radishes, parsley,
+etc., in combinations, can be made into various designs.
+
+[Illustration: VEGETABLES AND TRUFFLES CUT AND ARRANGED IN DESIGNS FOR
+DECORATING MOLDS, MOLDED DISHES, OR CHAUDFROID DISHES. (SEE PAGE 326.)
+
+ 1. Vegetables. 2. Truffles.]
+
+
+=SOCLES=
+
+Socles are stands on which to raise birds, chops, or other articles
+above the dish to give them a better appearance, and allow more
+garnishing. They are also used as supports against which to rest
+larger pieces of meat, fish, tongue, etc., to keep them in place.
+Elaborate socles of various shapes are made of tallow by caterers, but
+these are not practicable for ordinary cooks to undertake, and they are
+also in questionable taste. The simple supports given below are easily
+made, and well repay the trouble, especially for cold dishes. They
+should be stuck to the dish with white of egg, so they will be firm. The
+simplest way of making a socle is to take a loaf of stale bread, remove
+the crust, and cut the crumb to the desired shape. Then spread it with
+butter, and cover it with parsley chopped very fine. If to be used for a
+hot dish, immerse the bread in hot fat until it takes a golden brown.
+Another simple socle can be made of hominy. Fill a well-buttered
+cake-tin or plain mold with boiled hominy. When cold it will retain the
+form of the mold. If desired, the sides of the mold can be ornamented
+with vegetables of different colors cut into fancy shapes. (See
+picture.)
+
+[Illustration: SOCLES OR SUPPORTS FOR CHOPS, BIRDS, ETC. FORM MADE OF
+RICE, HOMINY OR WHITE CORN MEAL MOLDED IN A TIN BASIN. (SEE PAGE 326.)
+
+ 1. Green string beans.
+ 2. Balls of carrot or beet cut in halves, or slices stamped into small
+ rounds.
+ 3. Parsley stalk.
+ 4. Balls of carrot, large green peas or capers.
+ 5. Slices of string beans.]
+
+[Illustration: BLOCKS OF BREAD FOR SUPPORT OF MEAT, POULTRY, FISH, GAME,
+ETC.]
+
+[Illustration: BONED BIRDS IN ASPIC AROUND SOCLE.
+
+The boned birds are molded in fluted individual molds and decorated with
+hard-boiled egg in daisy design as directed on page 326. Dish garnished
+with parsley.]
+
+[Illustration: BONED BIRDS IN ASPIC, THE SAME AS PRECEDING CUT, SERVED
+ON FLAT DISH AND GARNISHED WITH PARSLEY.]
+
+
+=RICE SOCLE OR CASSEROLE=
+
+Boil rice with three times its quantity of water, and a little butter,
+until it is very soft; then mash or pound it in a mortar until it
+becomes a smooth, elastic paste. Press the paste into a plain buttered
+mold or pan of the size desired for the socle, and place a weight on it
+so it will be compact and firm when cold. Unmold, and with a pointed
+knife, a turnip cut wedge-shape, and a butter-stamp, mold the sides to
+fancy form. Brush it over with yolk of egg, and place a moment in the
+oven to brown; or it may be ornamented the same as the hominy supports,
+with vegetables cut into fancy shapes. (See illustrations.) If wanted
+for a casserole, scoop out carefully a hollow in the center, and fill
+with chicken or any creamed meat, or with vegetables.
+
+
+=POTATO CASSEROLE=
+
+To a quart of seasoned mashed potato add four or six egg yolks. Stir it
+over the fire to dry it well; then with the hands or a knife mold it
+into a hollow cylinder or into a cup-shaped form; brush it over with
+yolk of egg, and place it a moment in the oven to brown. Fill the center
+just before serving with any minced meat, or with birds, chops,
+sweetbreads, or any creamed dish. The casserole may also be formed by
+pressing the potato into a mold which opens (see illustration), or any
+mold with fluted or plain sides, which, when buttered, will let the
+potato slip out; then egg and brown as before.
+
+
+=A POTATO SUPPORT FOR HOT MEATS=
+
+Add slowly to two cupfuls of well-mashed sweet or white potato, beating
+all the time over the fire, one cupful of hot milk, a tablespoonful of
+butter, one quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper, a teaspoonful of salt,
+and lastly, three beaten eggs. Butter well a plain mold of the shape
+desired; sprinkle over it as many bread-crumbs as will stick to the
+butter; turn in the puree of potatoes, place the mold in a pan of water,
+and bake for thirty minutes. Turn the molded potato in the centre of a
+dish, and arrange chops or birds around and against it.
+
+
+=CROUSTADES OF BREAD=
+
+Take a loaf of bread two days old, which was baked in a round or a
+square tin; pare off the crust, and carve it with a sharp-pointed knife
+into vase or cup-shape. Fry it in hot fat to gold color. Paint the
+inside with white of egg to prevent its soaking up the sauce of the
+filling. Fill with mushrooms, chicken livers, creamed chicken or any
+salpicon. Do not put the filling in until ready to serve, and heat the
+croustade before adding it.
+
+
+=ROLL CROUSTADES=
+
+Cut off the tops of rolls, or of home-made biscuits of any size. Remove
+the crumb from the inside; butter the rolls inside and out, and set in
+the oven to brown. Fill with any creamed meat or salpicon.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+
+CHAFING-DISH RECEIPTS
+
+
+=CHAFING-DISH COOKING=
+
+The chafing-dish, although a time-honored utensil, has
+recently had a renaissance. To-day it is not more valued
+for the convenience than for the fun of it. Amateurs and
+epicures alike find pleasure in brewing and stewing over the
+alcohol lamp; in preparing a luncheon dish, or a novelty for
+"tea;" but, best of all, at the midnight hour the chafing-dish
+does its best though most disastrous service, for matutinal
+headaches have been called the desserts, and just deserts of
+late suppers.
+
+ [Sidenote: Kind of chafing-dish to use.]
+
+The chafing-dish with double pan (the lower one to hold hot
+water) is the preferable one, because dishes may be kept
+warm in the hot water, and also because articles cooked with
+milk are liable to burn if cooked directly over the flame.
+
+For safety from fire and staining, the chafing-dish should
+stand on a large metal tray, and the lamp should not be
+filled too full. Wood alcohol, which is much cheaper than
+high-proof spirits, answers just as well the purpose of
+heating, but has an unpleasant odor.
+
+ [Sidenote: Russian bowls.]
+
+The various articles to be used in the preparation of the
+dish should be put into Russian bowls, and the bowls placed
+on a Japanese tray. These bowls are of wood, and are made of
+all sizes. They do not break, they make no noise, and are
+ornamental: the last is a consideration which recommends
+them, other things being equal, where fancy work is being
+done. The preliminary preparation of the foods should be done
+in the kitchen, rather than before the party assembled to
+assist in the cooking operation with their advice, praise, and
+appetite.
+
+ [Sidenote: Wooden spoons.]
+
+Wooden spoons, which come in all sizes, are also desirable to
+use, as they do not become hot, do not scratch the dish, and
+are noiseless. Articles prepared in the chafing-dish are
+served directly from it, therefore garnishing has no part, but
+toast or croutons go well with most of the preparations, and
+these can be toasted or reheated on an asbestos pad placed
+over the flame. The water-pan containing hot water should
+be placed under the cooking-pan as soon as the flame is
+extinguished. It will keep the dish warm, and serve as a
+bain-marie (the utensil employed in large kitchens for keeping
+dishes hot until time for serving). Two chafing-dishes are
+almost a requisite where no other fire than the lamp is to be
+called upon, but with this _batterie de cuisine_ a supper can
+be easily and quickly prepared without one half of it spoiling
+while the other half is being made ready--the toast and hot
+water, for instance.
+
+ [Sidenote: Dishes suitable for chafing-dish.]
+
+The dishes most suitable for chafing-dish cooking are stews,
+eggs, and cheese. Stews can be modified in a great variety
+of ways, the barbecue being a favorite one. The simplest way
+of cooking in a chafing-dish is to put a little butter in
+the dish, and when it bubbles add oysters, mushrooms or any
+article which makes its own liquor; this lacking, a little
+water or milk is added, and seasoning to taste.
+
+Canned chicken, tongue, salmon, crabs, and shrimps make good
+dishes and are easily prepared. Paprica, a kind of red pepper,
+is especially good for use in chafing-dish cookery instead of
+cayenne.
+
+
+
+=PANNED OYSTERS=
+
+For twenty-five oysters, put in a chafing-dish one tablespoonful of
+butter. When it is melted, add the juice of half a lemon and one
+teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Then add the oysters, which should be
+well drained. Cook, stirring carefully, until they are plump and the
+gills a little frilled--no longer. Season with salt and pepper, and
+serve at once on toast. The oysters exude enough juice to soften the
+toast. Or let the butter brown in the chafing-dish, then add the oysters
+and cook until plump or the gills are curled. Then add a wineglassful of
+sherry or Madeira. Season with salt and pepper and serve at once. When
+wine is used, omit the lemon and parsley, and do not season until after
+the wine is added, as wine augments the flavor of salt. Have ready some
+toasted bread and pour the oysters over it; or cut the toast into small
+squares, stir them into the oysters and serve directly from the
+chafing-dish.
+
+
+=OYSTER STEW=
+
+Put a tablespoonful of butter in the chafing-dish; add a heaping
+tablespoonful of flour, and cook a few minutes, stirring all the time so
+it will not color. Add a cupful of milk slowly and stir until it begins
+to thicken; then add the oyster liquor (have the liquor strained so it
+will be free from pieces of shell), and lastly the oysters; season with
+salt and pepper and a little celery salt if liked. As soon as the edges
+of the oysters curl they are done, and the cooking must be arrested, or
+they will become tough.
+
+
+=CREAMED OYSTERS AND CLAMS=
+
+See receipt for creamed clams (page 135). This receipt can easily be
+prepared in the chafing-dish. Also oysters a la Poulette given on page
+133.
+
+
+=BARBECUE OF FISH=
+
+Marinate one pound of any cold boiled white fish in one tablespoonful of
+oil, one tablespoonful of vinegar, one slice of onion, pepper and salt.
+Leave the fish in as large pieces as possible. Put in a chafing-dish
+three tablespoonfuls of tomato catsup, three tablespoonfuls of sherry,
+three tablespoonfuls of butter. Put the butter in first, and when melted
+add the catsup and wine and then the fish. Baste the fish with the
+liquor until it is thoroughly heated, and it is then ready to serve.
+Thin slices of cooked cold beef, veal, or ham may also be cooked in this
+way.
+
+
+=EGGS WITH TOMATOES=
+
+Put into the chafing-dish a cupful of canned tomatoes, and cook until
+they begin to soften; then season with one tablespoonful of butter, salt
+and pepper to taste. Add two beaten eggs, and stir constantly until they
+begin to thicken. Then extinguish the flame, and the heat of the dish
+will be sufficient to complete the cooking. Stir constantly until they
+are of the consistency of scrambled eggs. Serve at once, or they will
+separate.
+
+
+=TOMATOES AND RICE=
+
+Put into a chafing-dish a half cupful of tomatoes; add a bay-leaf, a few
+drops of onion-juice, pepper and salt to taste. Let them cook until
+tender, then remove the bay-leaf and stir in as much boiled rice as can
+be well coated and moistened with the tomatoes. Serve with cracker
+biscuits.
+
+
+=CREAMED DISHES=
+
+(EGGS, CHICKEN, OR VEAL)
+
+Use the double pan with water. Make a white sauce by putting in the
+chafing-dish one tablespoonful of butter; let it bubble, then stir in
+one tablespoonful of flour; let it cook a few minutes, but not brown;
+then add a cupful of milk slowly, stirring all the time until it is a
+little thickened. Season with pepper and salt. Lay in carefully thick
+slices of hard-boiled egg. As soon as they are heated, place them on
+slices of toast softened with hot water, and pour the thickened sauce
+over them. For chicken or meat, season the sauce with a few drops of
+onion-juice, a little chopped celery if convenient, salt, pepper, and
+paprica. Have the chicken in good-sized pieces, or meat in thin slices,
+and leave them in the sauce only long enough to become well heated;
+canned chicken or turkey may be used. Any kind of meat can be minced and
+used in this way, in which case the sauce should be made with half milk
+and half stock. If stock is not at hand extract of beef (one teaspoonful
+to a cupful of boiling water) may be substituted. With chicken or
+oysters, the yolk of an egg is added just before it is removed, which
+makes it "a la poulette."
+
+
+=DISHES A LA NEWBURG=
+
+These are favorite chafing-dish preparations, and may be made of
+lobster, crabs, shrimps, soft-shelled clams, chicken, or cold boiled
+halibut. Lobster: Take the meat of one boiled lobster, put it in a
+chafing-dish with a tablespoonful of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, a
+dash of cayenne or of paprica. Stir lightly with a fork for three
+minutes, or until the lobster is well heated; then add a wineglassful of
+sherry or of Madeira, cook for another three minutes, and then add the
+beaten yolks of three eggs, diluted with a half pint of cream. Stir the
+mixture constantly for a minute, or just long enough to set the egg. If
+cooked too long it will curdle; serve at once. Prepare the dishes a la
+Newburg with a double pan. For soft-shell clams use only the soft half
+of the clam. For chicken use the white meat cut into inch squares. For
+halibut leave the pieces large, and break them as little as possible.
+
+
+=TERRAPIN=
+
+The prepared terrapin which comes in cans is the best for the
+chafing-dish, and needs only to be heated and seasoned to taste.
+
+=CHICKEN LIVERS WITH MADEIRA=
+
+Put a tablespoonful of butter in the chafing-dish; add the livers cut
+into pieces; cook them directly over the flame, turning them
+constantly, and dredge them while cooking with a tablespoonful of flour.
+It will take about five minutes to cook them; add a cupful of stock, and
+a few drops of kitchen bouquet. Then place the pan in the double pan
+containing water already hot; add to the livers a half cupful of Madeira
+and a few stoned olives; season with salt, pepper, and paprica after the
+wine is in; cover and let it simmer for ten minutes. Serve with
+croutons.
+
+
+=CRAB TOAST=
+
+Put into the chafing-dish a tablespoonful of butter; when it is melted,
+add a tablespoonful of chopped celery, a teaspoonful of flour, a half
+cupful of cream or milk, and a canful of crab meat. Stir until the
+moisture is nearly evaporated; add a tablespoonful of sherry, salt and
+pepper, and paprica to taste; spread on toasted biscuits, or on thin
+slices of toast.
+
+
+=SMELTS A LA TOULOUSE=
+
+ 12 smelts.
+ 1/2 cupful of white wine.
+ 3 tablespoonfuls of liquor from the mushroom can.
+ 1 tablespoonful of butter.
+ 1 tablespoonful of flour.
+ 1 dozen canned mushrooms.
+ 1 truffle.
+
+Cut down the back of the smelts, and remove the bone; close the fish,
+and lay them in the chafing-dish with the wine and mushroom liquor taken
+from the can. Cook until done, which will take five or six minutes.
+Remove and place the smelts on a hot dish. Mix with the liquor in which
+they were boiled one cupful of stock; rub together the butter and flour,
+and stir this in also, leaving it on the spoon until by stirring it is
+dissolved. (This method prevents its getting lumpy.) Then add the
+chopped mushrooms and chopped truffle. Season with salt and paprica or a
+dash of cayenne. Cook, stirring all the time until the sauce is creamy;
+then pour it over the fish. Serve with croutons.
+
+This is a good supper dish.
+
+
+=MEATS=
+
+
+VENISON
+
+Put a tablespoonful of butter in a chafing-dish. When it is very hot,
+lay in a piece of venison steak; let it cook a minute on both sides. Use
+spoons for turning the meat, so as not to pierce it. When the surfaces
+are seared, add a glassful of currant jelly, and baste the venison
+constantly with the liquid jelly until cooked rare. Extinguish the
+flame, and cut and serve the meat from the chafing-dish.
+
+
+MUTTON
+
+Lay a slice of mutton cut from the leg into a hot chafing-dish; turn it
+constantly, using two spoons, until it is cooked rare. Extinguish the
+flame, and cover the meat with a maitre d'hotel sauce (page 286). If
+preferred, spread it with currant jelly or with plum sauce; or prepare
+it the same as venison, with a little butter, and, instead of jelly, add
+a half canful of tomatoes, and finish the cooking in the same way.
+Season with a little onion-juice, pepper, and salt.
+
+
+BEEF
+
+A small steak can be pan-broiled in the same way. For beef a maitre
+d'hotel sauce must be used. A Delmonico steak or a small porterhouse
+steak, with the bones removed, are the best cuts to use.
+
+Any meat cooked in the chafing-dish should have all the fat trimmed off,
+so that there will be less odor.
+
+
+WELSH RAREBIT AND GOLDEN BUCK
+
+Receipts for Welsh Rarebit and Golden Buck are given on pages 371 and
+372.
+
+
+=FONDUE=
+
+
+BRILLAT-SAVARIN
+
+Savarin gives this receipt, which he says is taken from the papers of a
+Swiss bailiff. He says: "It is a dish of Swiss origin, is healthy,
+savory, appetizing, quickly made, and, moreover, is always ready to
+present to unexpected guests."
+
+He relates an anecdote of the sixteenth century of a M. de Madot, newly
+appointed Bishop of Belley, who at a feast given in honor of his
+arrival, mistaking the fondue for cream, eat it with a spoon instead of
+a fork. This caused so much comment that the next day no two people met
+who did not say: "Do you know how the new bishop eat his fondue last
+night?" "Yes; he eat it with a spoon. I have it from an eye-witness."
+And soon the news spread over the diocese.
+
+
+RECEIPT
+
+"Weigh as many eggs as you have guests. Take one third their weight of
+Gruyere cheese, and one sixth their weight of butter. Beat the eggs well
+in a saucepan; add the cheese, grated, and the butter. Put the saucepan
+on the fire and stir until the mixture is soft and creamy; then add
+salt, more or less, according to the age of the cheese, and a generous
+amount of pepper, which is one of the positive characters of the dish.
+Serve on a hot plate. Bring in the best wine, drink roundly of it, and
+you will see wonders."
+
+
+=PINEAPPLE CANAPES=
+
+Split in two some square sponge-cakes, which can be bought at the
+baker's for two cents each. Put a little butter in the chafing-dish.
+When it is hot put in the slices of cake, and brown them a little on
+both sides. Lay the slices on a plate, and spread each one with a layer
+of canned chopped pineapple. Turn the juice from the can into the
+chafing-dish. Moisten a teaspoonful of arrowroot with cold water, stir
+it slowly into the hot juice, and continue to stir until it becomes
+thickened and clear. Pour the sauce over the slices of spread cake. If
+more than a cupful of juice is used, add more arrowroot in proportion.
+Any kind of fruit, and slices of sponge cake or of brioche, can be used
+instead of the square individual cakes. Strawberries, raspberries, or
+peaches make good sweet canapes.
+
+
+=CHOCOLATE MADE WITH CONDENSED MILK=
+
+Fill the cups to be used about one third full of condensed milk; add a
+heaping teaspoonful of instantaneous chocolate, which is chocolate
+ground to a fine powder. Mix them well together; then fill the cup with
+boiling water, and stir until the chocolate and milk are dissolved. No
+sugar is needed, as the milk is sweetened to preserve it.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV
+
+BREAD
+
+
+ [Sidenote: The yeast plant.]
+
+Yeast is a minute plant, and like other plants must have the
+right conditions of heat, moisture, and nourishment in order
+to live or to nourish. It will be killed if scalded, or if
+frozen, as any other plant would be; therefore, as we depend
+upon the growth of this little plant for raising our bread,
+we must give its requirements as much care as we do our
+geraniums or our roses. The yeast plant takes its nourishment
+from sugar. This is found in flour. It converts this sugar
+into carbonic acid gas and alcohol, and the pressure of this
+gas causes the mixture in which it is generated to become
+inflated, or to "rise."
+
+[Illustration: FORMS OF GROWTH OF THE YEAST PLANT.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Making bread.]
+
+In mixing bread, we put the yeast into warm (not hot) water;
+this we mix with flour, thus supplying the moisture and
+nourishment required. We put this mixture in a warm place to
+force the growth of the plant. When the dough has become
+sufficiently inflated we put it into the oven and raise the
+heat to a degree which kills the plant and fixes the air
+cells, and our bread is done.
+
+ [Sidenote: Yeast.]
+
+In cities, where fresh compressed yeast can be obtained, it
+is not worth while to prepare one's own. Where this cannot
+be had, the dry yeast-cakes often give satisfactory results,
+but are not as reliable as a liquid yeast, which in the
+country it is often necessary as well as desirable to make.
+
+
+=DICK BENNET'S RECEIPT FOR YEAST=
+
+Peel nine good-sized potatoes, and boil them with a large handful of
+loose hops tied in a thin muslin bag. Use enough water to cover them
+well. When the potatoes are tender strain off the water. Mash the
+potatoes, return them to the water in which they were boiled, and mix
+them well together. Add two tablespoonfuls of flour, one half cupful of
+granulated sugar, and one tablespoonful of salt. Cook it for a few
+minutes, adding sufficient flour to make a thin batter. Set it aside
+until lukewarm; then add a yeast-cake, or a cupful of liquid yeast. Mix
+it well and place in a stone jar. Let it stand for twelve hours in a
+warm place. Stir it three times during this period. Place a weight on
+the lid of the jar, and set it in a cool place.
+
+
+=YEAST RECEIPT No. 2=
+
+ 6 grated raw potatoes.
+ 1 cupful of brown sugar.
+ 1/2 cupful of salt.
+ 2 quarts of flour.
+
+Mix these together, and add enough water to make a batter as thick as
+that used for griddle cakes.
+
+Pour two quarts of boiling water on as many hops as one can hold in the
+hand. Let them boil for five minutes. Strain off the water, and while
+hot add it to the batter. When it is lukewarm add a cupful of yeast, or
+a yeast cake. Let it stand several hours in a warm place until it rises,
+or the top is covered with bubbles. Then place in glass preserve jars,
+and keep in a cool place. Use a granite-ware saucepan and a wooden spoon
+when making yeast, in order to keep a good color.
+
+
+=WHAT TO DO WHEN YEAST IS NOT OBTAINABLE TO START THE FERMENTATION IN
+MAKING YEAST=
+
+Mix a thin batter of flour and water, and let it stand in a warm place
+until it is full of bubbles. This ferment has only half the strength of
+yeast, so double the amount must be used.
+
+
+=PROPORTIONS OF RAISING MATERIALS TO USE, AND OTHER ITEMS=
+
+One cake of compressed yeast is equal to one cupful of liquid yeast.
+
+Baking-powder is a mixture of soda, cream of tartar, and cornstarch, or
+rice flour.
+
+Use one level teaspoonful of baking-powder to each cupful of flour.
+
+Use one even teaspoonful of soda and two full teaspoonfuls of cream of
+tartar to a quart of flour.
+
+When sour milk is used, take one even teaspoonful of soda to a pint of
+milk, and omit the cream of tartar.
+
+When molasses is used, omit the cream of tartar, and use one teaspoonful
+of soda to each cupful of molasses.
+
+Mix powders with the flour, and sift them together, so as to thoroughly
+mix them.
+
+Mix dry materials in one bowl and liquids in another; combine them
+quickly, and put at once into the oven.
+
+The oven for baking bread should be hot enough to brown a teaspoonful of
+flour in five minutes. For biscuits it should brown in one minute.
+
+Rolls brushed with milk just before baking will have a brown crust.
+
+Rubbing the crust with butter just before it is taken from the oven will
+make it crisp.
+
+
+=GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING BREAD=
+
+ [Sidenote: Time required for making bread.]
+
+Bread is often mixed the night before it is to be baked, and
+left to rise from eight to ten hours; but the whole process
+of bread-making, from the mixing to the serving, can be done
+in two and a half hours if sufficient yeast is used. In hot
+weather it is desirable to complete the work in a short
+time, in order to prevent fermentation or souring, which
+occurs if left too long a time. Four hours and a half is
+ample time for the whole process, using the ordinary amount
+of yeast; two hours for the mixing and rising of the sponge
+or dough; one half hour for the kneading and molding; one
+hour for the loaves to rise in the pans, and one hour for
+the baking.
+
+ [Sidenote: Raising the bread.]
+
+A thin batter called a sponge may be made at night, and the
+rest of the flour added in the morning, or the dough may be
+mixed and kneaded at night and only molded into loaves in
+the morning; but a better way, especially in summer, is to
+set the bread early in the morning and have it baked by
+noon. It needs to rise twice, once either in the sponge or
+in the dough, and again after it is molded into loaves. The
+old way of letting it rise three times is unnecessary, and
+increases the danger of souring. If the dough gets very
+light before one is ready to work it, it should be cut away
+from the sides of the pan and pressed down in the center
+with the knife. This liberates some of the gas and retards
+the fermentation. This can be done several times. If it
+rises too high it will collapse, which means souring, but
+before that it loses its best flavor, and so should not be
+allowed to more than double its bulk.
+
+ [Sidenote: Proportions of materials.]
+
+The proportions of flour, liquid, and yeast cannot be
+exactly given, as flour of different qualities and degrees
+of dryness will absorb more or less liquid, and the amount
+of yeast to be used depends both upon the time allowed and
+the temperature.
+
+Two cupfuls of liquid will take six to seven cupfuls of
+sifted flour, and this will make two small loaves. One half
+a compressed yeast cake will raise this amount in two hours
+if kept in a warm place. The other ingredients for this
+quantity are one teaspoonful of salt, one tablespoonful of
+sugar, and one tablespoonful of butter, lard, or cottolene,
+if shortening is desired.
+
+Bread made with milk instead of water, and with shortening, is
+more tender than when water alone is used. Boiled potatoes are
+sometimes added, and give a more moist bread.
+
+ [Sidenote: Mixing.]
+
+Dissolve the yeast in a part of the tepid water; in the
+rest of the water mix the salt, sugar, and butter, add the
+dissolved yeast, and then stir in enough flour to make a soft
+dough which will not stick to the hands. If the flour is cold
+warm it. If milk is used, scald it, then allow it to become
+tepid before mixing it with the yeast. Place the pan in a warm
+place free from draughts. When the dough is to be made into
+rolls or fancy forms, it needs to be a little stiffer than for
+loaves.
+
+ [Sidenote: Making a sponge.]
+
+A sponge is a thin batter made by mixing only a little flour
+with the other ingredients. This is left to stand until
+filled with large bubbles. The rest of the flour is then
+added, to make the dough.
+
+When bread is to be made in a short time, it is better to
+set a sponge instead of making a dough at first; for in this
+way the second rising will be a little quicker.
+
+ [Sidenote: The crust on dough.]
+
+When a dough is mixed and set aside to rise, cover the pan
+with several thicknesses of cloth to exclude the air and so
+prevent a crust forming on the top. It helps also to keep
+the dough at an even temperature. If a crust forms it is
+difficult to mix it in so thoroughly that it does not leave
+hard spots and lines in the bread. There is a bread-pan made
+with close-fitting cover, which is recommended.
+
+ [Sidenote: Kneading and molding.]
+
+When the dough is made, it should be kneaded for twenty to
+thirty minutes. Turn it from the pan onto a board, and work
+it by drawing it forward with the fingers and pushing it
+away with the balls of the hands, turning it all the time.
+This stretches the gluten and changes it from a sticky paste
+to a smooth, elastic substance. Use as little flour on the
+board as possible, and work it until it no longer sticks.
+The more it is worked the finer will be the grain, and the
+less flour used the better will be the bread.
+
+ [Sidenote: Baking.]
+
+When dough is made at the first mixing, return it to the pan
+after it is kneaded and let it rise to double its size (not
+more), and then work it down, mold it into loaves, and let
+it rise a second time in the baking-pans. When a sponge is
+made, knead the dough when the flour is added to the sponge,
+and put it at once into the baking-pans.
+
+Divide the dough evenly and shape it to the pans as well as
+possible, filling the pans only half full. Cover and set
+them in a warm place free from draughts. When they have
+doubled (not more) in size, put them in the oven. The loaf
+rises a little more in the oven. If it is too light, it is
+likely to fall, which means it has soured, and for this
+there is no remedy. The loaf in the pan should rise in one
+hour.
+
+ [Sidenote: The fire.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Time.]
+
+Care in baking is even more essential than care in mixing and
+raising the bread. Test the oven by putting in a teaspoonful
+of flour. If it browns the flour in five minutes the heat is
+right. Have the fire prepared so it will not need replenishing
+during the hour required for the baking. The bread rises after
+it goes in the oven, and is likely to rise unevenly if the
+oven is hotter on one side than the other; therefore it should
+be watched and turned carefully if necessary. At the end of
+ten to fifteen minutes the top should be browned, and this
+will arrest the rising. If the oven is too cool, the bread is
+likely to rise so much as to run over the pan, or to have a
+hole in the center. If the oven is too hot it will make a
+crust too soon, the centre be underdone, and the crust be too
+thick. One hour is the time required for baking the ordinary
+sized loaf.
+
+ [Sidenote: Care of bread after it is baked.]
+
+When the bread is taken from the oven turn it out of the
+pans and support the loaves in such a way that the air will
+reach all sides. If the loaves stand flat the bottom crust
+will become moist. If wrapped in cloth it will do the same
+and give a soft crust, which, however, some prefer to have.
+It should not be put in the bread-box until entirely cold.
+
+ [Sidenote: Baking bread rolls.]
+
+For baking rolls the rule is different from that for bread.
+Rolls should rise, to be very light, more than double their
+original size, and the oven be hot enough to form a crust at
+once. It should brown flour in one minute and bake the rolls
+in fifteen to twenty minutes.
+
+ [Sidenote: Flour.]
+
+The ordinary white flour of best quality is nearly all
+starch, the nourishing parts of the wheat having been mostly
+all removed by the bolting to make it white. The whole wheat
+flour makes a much more nourishing and health-giving bread,
+and when the habit of eating it is once formed, bread made
+of the white flour is no longer liked.
+
+ [Sidenote: Pans.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Different shapes for variety.]
+
+There is a variety of bread-pans giving loaves of different
+shapes to be used for different purposes. Besides the square
+tin which gives the ordinary square loaf, there is a sheet
+iron rounded pan open at the ends. The dough for this pan is
+made into a long roll a little thicker in the middle than at
+the ends. It gives the shape of the Vienna loaf. After the
+bread has risen cut it across the top in three diagonal
+slashes with a sharp knife; when it is nearly baked brush over
+the top with a thin boiled cornstarch, and it will further
+resemble the Vienna loaf. For dinner bread, there is a pan a
+foot long of two flutes, about two inches each across and open
+at the ends; for this roll the dough long and round, or make
+two smaller rolls and twist them together; bake in a hot oven
+like biscuits. This gives a long, round crusty loaf like the
+French bread. A pan of small flutes is used for dinner sticks
+or finger rolls, giving a pencil of bread three quarters of an
+inch thick and five inches long. Bread made in different
+shapes gives a pleasant variety and often seems like a different
+article when baked so as to give more or less crust.
+
+[Illustration: BREAD AND ROLL TINS.]
+
+
+=WATER BREAD No. 1=
+
+(TWO SMALL LOAVES)
+
+ 2 cupfuls of tepid water.
+ 1 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1/2 compressed yeast cake.
+ 6 to 7 cupfuls of flour.
+
+For mixing, kneading, and baking, see general directions given at head
+of chapter.
+
+
+=WATER BREAD No. 2=
+
+(TWO SMALL LOAVES)
+
+ 2 cupfuls of tepid water.
+ 1/2 cake of compressed yeast.
+ 1 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 6 to 7 cupfuls of flour.
+ 1 tablespoonful of sugar.
+ 1 tablespoonful of butter, lard, drippings, or cottolene.
+
+For mixing, kneading, and baking, see general directions given at head
+of chapter.
+
+
+=MILK BREAD=
+
+Make the same as Water Bread No. 2, but use milk in place of the water,
+or use half milk and half water.
+
+
+=POTATO BREAD=
+
+Add one medium-sized mashed boiled potato to the sponge of any of the
+foregoing receipts. Potato gives a more moist bread, which retains its
+freshness longer.
+
+
+=RECEIPT FOR ONE LOAF OF BREAD OR ONE PAN OF BISCUITS TO BE MADE IN TWO
+HOURS=
+
+ 1 cupful of scalded milk.
+ 1/4 cupful of butter.
+ 3 yeast cakes.
+ 1 tablespoonful of sugar
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of salt.
+ White of one egg.
+ 3 to 4 cupfuls of flour.
+
+Make a sponge; let it stand in a warm place in a pan of warm water until
+full of bubbles; then add the flour, knead it for twenty minutes, mold
+into loaf, and let it rise in the baking-pan until double in size, and
+bake.
+
+
+=BREAD MADE WITH BAKING-POWDER=
+
+Add to four quarts of flour a teaspoonful of salt and six teaspoonfuls
+of baking-powder. Sift them three times so as to thoroughly mix them,
+and then add slowly a quart of cold water, or enough to make a dough of
+the right consistency. Mold it quickly into four loaves, and put at once
+into a moderate oven for one and a quarter hours.
+
+
+=BREAD MADE OF WHOLE WHEAT FLOUR=
+
+Dissolve a yeast cake in two tablespoonfuls of tepid water. Put into a
+bowl a pint of milk; add to it a pint of boiling water, and let it stand
+until it is lukewarm; then add the dissolved yeast, a teaspoonful of
+salt, and enough whole wheat flour to make a thick batter. The batter
+should drop, but not run off the spoon. Beat this batter with a spoon
+for fifteen minutes. It becomes quite soft and liquid by beating. Add
+enough more flour to make a dough; turn it onto the board and knead it a
+few minutes; return it to pan, and let rise for three hours, or until
+light. Mold it into small loaves; let it rise again, and bake in
+moderate oven thirty to forty-five minutes.
+
+
+=GRAHAM BREAD=
+
+Dissolve a half teaspoonful of soda in a cupful of lukewarm water. Put a
+tablespoonful of butter into a tablespoonful and a half of molasses,
+and let them warm until the butter is melted. Add to it the dissolved
+soda and water, and a half teaspoonful of salt. Stir this mixture into a
+cupful of light white bread sponge, and add enough Graham flour to make
+a stiff batter, or very thin dough. Turn into a greased pan. Let it rise
+until even with the top of the pan, and bake in a moderate oven an hour
+or an hour and a quarter. Use a spoon, and not the hands, for mixing
+Graham flour. A little white flour may be mixed with the Graham flour if
+a lighter colored and dryer bread is preferred.
+
+
+=GLUTEN BREAD=
+
+Pour a pint of boiling water into a pint of milk; add a teaspoonful of
+butter and a teaspoonful of salt. Let it stand until it is lukewarm;
+then add a well-beaten egg, a quarter of a yeast-cake dissolved, and
+enough gluten to make a soft batter. Cover and stand in a warm place to
+rise; then add enough gluten to make a soft dough, and knead it well.
+Form it into four loaves, and let rise again. Bake for one hour.
+
+Gluten bread requires less yeast and less time to rise than ordinary
+bread.
+
+
+=BOSTON BROWN BREAD=
+
+ 2 cupfuls of white cornmeal.
+ 2 cupfuls of yellow cornmeal.
+ 2 cupfuls of Graham flour or of rye meal or of white flour.
+ 1 cupful of molasses.
+ 2 cupfuls of milk (one of them being sour milk, if convenient).
+ 2 cupfuls of boiling water.
+ 1 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1 teaspoonful of soda.
+
+Mix well the flour, meal, and salt; add to them the boiling water. Mix
+the sweet milk and molasses together, and add them to the scalded meal.
+Dissolve the soda in the sour milk, and add it last. Turn the mixture
+into a covered cylindrical mold or into a covered pail, and steam it for
+three hours; then uncover and bake in the oven for half an hour. Slices
+of this bread toasted, buttered, and covered with cream make a good
+breakfast or luncheon dish.
+
+
+=TOAST=
+
+Cut the bread in even slices one quarter of an inch thick. Cut off the
+crust and trim the pieces into even and uniform shape. There is no waste
+in this, as the scraps of bread can be dried and crumbed. If the bread
+is fresh, let it dry a few minutes in the oven. Place it on a wire
+toaster, and turn often until well dried through; then hold it over the
+coals a minute to take an even golden color. Toast requires careful
+watching, or it will burn or be unevenly colored. Toast should not be
+served until the moment it is required. A few pieces only should be
+served at a time, and the plate should be hot. If wrapped in a napkin,
+or piled up, it quickly becomes damp and loses its crispness. If a soft
+toast is wanted, color the bread at once without drying it; the center
+will then be only heated. Toast used under game or meats is made dry,
+buttered, and sprinkled with salt; then softened with a little boiling
+water.
+
+
+=MILK TOAST=
+
+Make a dry toast; spread it with butter, and sprinkle it with salt.
+Place it in the dish in which it is to be served, and pour over it a
+little boiling water; cover it, and place in the oven a few minutes to
+steam and soak up the water. It should have enough water to entirely
+soften it, but not lose its shape. Put one teaspoonful of butter in a
+saucepan. When it bubbles, stir in a teaspoonful of flour, and let it
+cook a minute without coloring. Add slowly, stirring all the time, one
+cupful of milk. Cook until it is slightly thickened; add a saltspoonful
+of salt. Pour this thickened milk over the softened toast just before
+serving. Bread for milk toast should be cut in even slices one half inch
+thick, thoroughly dried in toasting, evenly colored, and steamed until
+tender. When cream is used, it is scalded and poured over the softened
+toast.
+
+
+=PANADA=
+
+Split Bent's water biscuits in two; sprinkle salt or sugar between them,
+and place together again; or, use two large soda biscuits, or pilot
+bread, or Passover bread. Place them in the dish in which they will be
+served; pour over enough boiling water to cover them. Cover the dish,
+and place it in the open oven, or on the hot shelf, until the biscuits
+have become soft like jelly; pour off any water that has not been
+absorbed, using care not to break the biscuits. Sprinkle again with salt
+or sugar. A little cream or hot milk can be added if desired.
+
+
+=PULLED BREAD=
+
+Break off irregular pieces of the crumb of fresh bread, and dry it in a
+very slow oven until lightly colored. The inside of fresh biscuits left
+over can be treated in this way, and will keep an indefinite time. They
+should be heated in the oven when served, and are good with chocolate,
+or coffee, or bouillon. The crusts of the biscuits may be used as cups
+for creamed meats or vegetables, or for eggs.
+
+
+=ZWIEBACK=
+
+Cut rusks into slices one half inch thick, and dry them in a very slow
+oven until dried through, and of a deep yellow color. Slices of Vienna
+bread can be used in the same way.
+
+
+=BREAD FRITTERS=
+
+Take pieces of raised bread-dough the size of an egg, drop them into
+smoking hot fat, and fry to a gold color, the same as doughnuts. Drain
+and serve on a napkin for breakfast, or sprinkle them with powdered
+sugar and ground cinnamon mixed, and serve them for luncheon.
+
+
+=BREAD ROLLS=
+
+For one panful of biscuits take as much raised bread-dough as will make
+one loaf of bread. Use any kind of bread-dough, but if no shortening has
+been used, add a tablespoonful of butter to this amount of dough. Add
+also more flour to make a stiffer dough than for bread. Work it for ten
+minutes so as to give it a finer grain. Cut it into pieces half the
+size of an egg, roll them into balls, and place in a pan some distance
+apart. If enough space is given, each roll will be covered with crust,
+which is the best part of hot breads. If, however, the crumb is
+preferred, place them in the pan near enough to run together in rising.
+Let the biscuits rise to more than double size, and bake in a quick oven
+twenty to thirty minutes.
+
+When removed from the oven rub the crusts with a little butter, and wrap
+the rolls in a cloth until ready to serve. This will give a tender
+crust. If a deep color is liked, brush the rolls with milk or egg before
+placing them in the oven. A glaze is obtained by brushing them with
+sugar dissolved in milk when taken from the oven, then replacing them in
+the oven again for a moment to dry.
+
+
+=CRESCENTS=
+
+Add to bread-dough a little more sugar, and enough flour to make a stiff
+dough. Roll it to one eighth inch thickness. Cut it into strips six
+inches wide, and then into sharp triangles. Roll them up, commencing at
+the base; the point of the triangle will then come in the middle of the
+roll. Turn the points around into the shape of crescents. Place on tins
+to rise for half an hour, brush the tops with water, and bake until
+lightly colored. When taken from the oven brush the tops with thin
+boiled cornstarch water, and place again for a minute in the oven to
+glaze.
+
+
+=BRAIDS AND TWISTS=
+
+Take any bread- or biscuit-dough. Roll it one inch thick, and cut it
+into strips one inch wide. Roll the strips on the board to make them
+round. Brush the strips with butter. Braid or twist the strips together,
+making them pointed at the ends, and broad in the middle. Let them rise
+a little, but not so much as to lose shape, and bake in a quick oven.
+Glaze the tops the same as directed above for crescents.
+
+
+=CLEFT ROLLS=
+
+Make the dough into balls of the size desired. After the rolls have
+risen cut each roll across the top with a sharp knife about an inch
+deep. If cut twice it makes a cross roll. Glaze the tops as directed for
+crescents, or brush them with milk and sugar.
+
+
+=LUNCHEON AND TEA ROLLS=
+
+ 2 quarts of flour.
+ 3 cups of boiled milk.
+ 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar.
+ 1 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1/2 cupful of butter.
+ Whites of 2 eggs.
+ 1/2 yeast cake.
+
+Boil the milk, dissolve in it the sugar and salt, and add the butter to
+melt it. When this mixture becomes tepid, add the beaten whites of the
+eggs and the yeast, dissolved in two tablespoonfuls of water; then stir
+in the flour, and knead it for twenty to thirty minutes; cover it well,
+and put it aside in a warm place free from draughts to rise over night.
+If to be used for breakfast, mold the rolls to any shape desired; let
+them rise to more than double their size, and bake for thirty minutes.
+If they are to be used for luncheon, cut down with a knife the raised
+dough in the morning, and keep it in a cool place until an hour and a
+half before the time for serving the rolls; then mold, raise, and bake
+them. If they are to be used for tea, do not set the dough until
+morning. In summer allow four and a half hours for the whole work, the
+same as directed for bread on page 340.
+
+
+=PARKER HOUSE ROLLS=
+
+ 2 quarts of flour.
+ 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, or lard, or cottolene.
+ 1 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1 pint of milk.
+ 1/3 compressed yeast cake.
+ 1/2 cupful of sugar (scant).
+
+Put the salt into the flour, and work in the shortening thoroughly.
+Dissolve the yeast in one cupful of warm water. Scald the milk, and
+dissolve the sugar in it after it is taken off the fire. When the milk
+is lukewarm, mix the yeast with it. Make a hollow in the center of the
+flour, and pour into it the milk and yeast mixture. Sprinkle a little of
+the flour over the top. Cover the pan well, and leave it to rise. If
+this sponge is set at five o'clock, at ten o'clock stir the whole
+together thoroughly with a spoon. Do not beat it, but stir it well, as
+it gets no other kneading. In the morning turn the dough onto a board,
+work it together a little, and roll it evenly one half inch thick. Lift
+the dough off the board a little to let it shrink all it will before
+cutting. Cut it into rounds with a good-sized biscuit-cutter. Place a
+small piece of butter on one side, and double the other side over it, so
+the edges meet. Let them rise for two hours, and bake in a quick oven
+for twenty minutes. If the rolls are to be used for luncheon, cut down
+the dough in the morning and keep it in a cool place until the time for
+molding them. If for tea, set the sponge in the morning, using one half
+cake of compressed yeast.[352-*]
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[352-*] Place the rolls far enough apart in the pan to give room for
+them to rise without running together.
+
+
+=TEA BISCUITS MADE WITH BAKING POWDER=
+
+ 4 cupfuls of sifted flour.
+ 3 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder.
+ 1 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1 tablespoonful of butter.
+
+Add the salt and baking-powder to the flour and sift them. Rub in the
+butter well. With a fork stir in lightly and quickly sufficient milk to
+make a soft dough. The dough must be only just stiff enough to roll.
+Flour the board well, turn the dough onto it, and lightly roll it to a
+half inch thickness. Cut it into small circles, brush the tops with
+milk, and bake in a quick oven for twenty to thirty minutes.
+
+
+=BISCUITS MADE WITH SOUR MILK=
+
+ 1 quart of flour.
+ 1 teaspoonful of soda.
+ 1 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1 tablespoonful of butter or lard.
+ Milk.
+
+Mix the soda and the salt with the flour, and sift them several times so
+they will be thoroughly mixed. Rub in the butter evenly. Stir in
+lightly with a fork enough sour milk to make a dough just stiff enough
+to roll. The dough can be left very soft if the board is well floured
+and the rolling-pin is used very lightly, patting the dough rather than
+rolling it. Roll it out quickly an inch thick. Cut it into small rounds.
+Bake in a quick oven twenty to thirty minutes. The dough can be rolled
+half an inch thick, and two rounds placed together with a small bit of
+butter between. They are then called twin biscuits. These biscuits may
+be made of sweet milk, in which case two rounding teaspoonfuls of cream
+of tartar must be used with the soda and mixed with the flour.
+
+
+=CORN BREAD No. 1=
+
+ 2 cupfuls of flour.
+ 1-1/2 cupfuls of cornmeal (yellow or white).
+ 1/2 cupful of sugar.
+ 1 saltspoonful of salt.
+ 3 teaspoonfuls of baking powder.
+ 1-2/3 cupfuls of milk.
+ 1 tablespoonful of butter or lard melted.
+ 2 eggs.
+
+Mix the flour, meal, salt, and baking-powder together thoroughly. Beat
+together the eggs and sugar; add the butter, then the flour mixture, and
+lastly mix in quickly the milk and turn into a flat pan to bake. Sour
+milk can be used instead of sweet milk, in which case a teaspoonful of
+soda dissolved in a quarter of a cupful of hot water is used, and
+baking-powder is omitted.
+
+
+=CORN BREAD No. 2=
+
+ 1 cupful of fine cornmeal sifted.
+ 1-1/2 cupfuls of milk.
+ 2 eggs.
+ 1 tablespoonful of butter.
+ 1 teaspoonful of baking-powder.
+ 1 teaspoonful of sugar.
+
+Scald the milk and pour it onto the sifted meal. Let it cool, then add
+the melted butter, salt, sugar, baking-powder, and yolks of the eggs.
+Stir it quickly and thoroughly together, and lastly fold in the whites
+of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Bake in a flat pan in a hot oven
+for thirty minutes.
+
+
+=PUFFS OR POP-OVERS=
+
+ 2 cupfuls of milk.
+ 2 cupfuls of flour.
+ 2 eggs (whites and yolks beaten separately).
+ 1 teaspoonful of salt.
+
+Mix the salt with the flour. Mix the beaten yolks with the milk, and add
+them slowly to the flour to make a smooth batter. Lastly fold in the
+whipped whites. Put the batter at once into hot greased gem-pans,
+filling them half full, and put into a hot oven for thirty minutes.
+Serve at once, as they fall as soon as the heat is lost.
+
+
+=GRAHAM GEMS=
+
+ 2 cupfuls of Graham flour.
+ 1 cupful of milk.
+ 1 cupful of water.
+ 2 eggs.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1 tablespoonful of sugar.
+
+Mix the dry ingredients together; beat the eggs separately. Mix the milk
+with the salt and sugar; add the water, then the flour, and lastly fold
+in the whipped whites, and put at once into very hot greased gem-pans,
+filling them half full. Bake in a hot oven thirty minutes.
+
+
+=CORN GEMS=
+
+(MADE OF CORN FLOUR)
+
+ 2 eggs.
+ 1 cupful of corn flour.
+ 1/2 cupful of white flour.
+ 1 tablespoonful of butter.
+ 1 cupful of milk.
+ 1 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1 teaspoonful of baking-powder.
+
+Break the yolks of the eggs; add to them milk, salt, and melted butter;
+mix them well together, then add the two kinds of flour. Beat the whites
+of the eggs to a stiff froth; when they are ready, add the baking-powder
+to the flour mixture and then fold in lightly the whipped whites. Turn
+at once into warm gem-pans, a tablespoonful of batter into each one, and
+bake in a hot oven for fifteen minutes. This receipt can be used for any
+kind of flour.
+
+
+=MUFFINS No. 1=
+
+ 2 cupfuls of flour.
+ 1 cupful of milk.
+ 1 level tablespoonful of butter.
+ 2 eggs (beaten separately).
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 2 even teaspoonfuls of baking-powder.
+
+Mix thoroughly the baking-powder and salt with the flour. Stir the milk
+and yolks together; add the butter, melted; then the flour, and lastly
+fold in the whipped whites. Turn into hot gem-pans, and bake at once in
+a very hot oven for fifteen to twenty minutes. Serve immediately.
+
+
+=RAISED MUFFINS=
+
+ 1 pint of milk, scalded.
+ 1/2 compressed yeast-cake.
+ 2 tablespoonfuls of butter.
+ 1 tablespoonful of sugar.
+ 1 teaspoonful of salt.
+ About 2-1/2 cupfuls of flour.
+
+Scald the milk, and add the butter, sugar and salt. When it has become
+lukewarm, add the yeast dissolved in a quarter cupful of lukewarm water.
+Stir in enough flour to make a drop batter, cover it well, place it in a
+warm place free from draughts, and let rise over night. In the morning
+stir it down, grease some muffin-rings, place them on a hot greased
+griddle, fill the rings half full of batter. It will rise to the top.
+Turn the muffins with a pancake turner and bake them on both sides until
+a thin brown crust is formed. Two eggs may be added to the batter in the
+morning if desired. If so, beat the yolks and whites separately and add
+the whites last.
+
+
+=ENGLISH MUFFINS OR CRUMPETS=
+
+Use the receipt for raised muffins, omitting the sugar and eggs. Do not
+bake them so much. Turn them before the crust becomes brown. When cold,
+pull them apart and toast them.
+
+
+=SALLY LUNN=
+
+This is the same as the receipt for Muffins No. 1, using three eggs
+instead of two, and baking it in a cake-tin instead of gem-pans. In this
+form it is served for luncheon or for tea.
+
+
+=WAFFLES=
+
+ 2 cupfuls of flour.
+ 1 teaspoonful of baking-powder.
+ 1-1/4 cupfuls of milk.
+ 1 tablespoonful of butter, or lard, or cottolene.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 3 eggs beaten separately.
+
+Mix the flour, baking-powder, and salt thoroughly together. Mix the
+yolks with the milk; then the melted butter, the flour, and lastly the
+beaten whites. Have the waffle-iron very clean; let it be thoroughly
+heated on both sides. Rub it over with a piece of salt pork, or with a
+piece of butter tied in a clean rag. Close the iron, and turn it so the
+grease will cover every part. Put enough batter into each section of the
+iron to fill it two-thirds full. Shut the iron, and cook the waffles a
+minute or longer on each side. Serve the waffles hot, using with them
+syrup or powdered sugar mixed with ground cinnamon.
+
+
+=HOMINY CAKE=
+
+Stir into one cupful of boiled hominy while it is still hot a
+teaspoonful of butter, one saltspoonful of salt, and the yolks of two
+eggs well beaten; add slowly a cupful of milk, and then a half cupful of
+fine cornmeal; lastly, fold in the whipped whites of two eggs. Bake in a
+flat tin in a hot oven for twenty to thirty minutes. Cold boiled hominy
+left over can be used for this dish by heating it with enough water to
+moisten it.
+
+
+=OAT CAKE=
+
+Mix oatmeal, which is ground fine, with a little salt and enough water
+to make a stiff dough. Roll it on a floured board to one eighth inch
+thickness, and bake it in one sheet in a slow oven without browning,
+until dry and hard. It should be gray in color. When done, break it into
+irregular pieces. This is a Scotch dish, and in Scotland is made with a
+fine oat flour, which is difficult to obtain in this country.
+
+
+=BRAN BISCUITS=
+
+ 1 pint of bran.
+ 1/2 pint of flour.
+ 1/2 pint of milk.
+ 6 tablespoonfuls of molasses.
+ 1 even teaspoonful of baking soda.
+
+Mix the bran, flour, and soda together, mix the molasses and milk
+together, and add the flour mixture. Bake in gem-pans. Two of these
+biscuits eaten at each meal act as a laxative and cure for constipation.
+The receipt is furnished by a physician.
+
+
+=BREAD STICKS=
+
+Any bread-dough may be used, though that with shortening is preferred.
+After it is kneaded enough to be elastic, cut it into pieces half the
+size of an egg, roll it on the board into a stick the size of a pencil
+and a foot long. Lay the strips on a floured baking-tin or sheet. Let
+them rise a very little, and bake in a moderate oven, so they will dry
+without browning. Serve them with bouillon or soups, or with tea.
+
+
+=RUSKS=
+
+ 1 cupful of milk scalded.
+ 2 tablespoonfuls of butter.
+ 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar.
+ 2 eggs.
+ 1/2 cake of compressed yeast.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of salt.
+ Flour.
+
+Make a sponge (see directions at head of chapter), using the milk, salt,
+and yeast. When it is full of bubbles, add the butter, sugar, and
+well-beaten eggs. Stir in enough flour to make a soft dough. Knead it
+for twenty minutes. Let it rise to double its bulk; then mold it into
+balls the size of half an egg. Place them rather close together in a
+baking-tin, and let them rise until very light. When they are ready to
+go into the oven, brush over the tops with sugar dissolved in milk, and
+sprinkle the tops with dry sugar. Bake in a hot oven about half an hour.
+Rusks must be well kneaded and be very light before being baked. A part
+of the dough set for bread may be made into rusks by adding to it an
+egg, sugar, and butter.
+
+
+=DRIED RUSKS=
+
+Cut rusks that are a day old into slices one half inch thick, and dry
+them in a slow oven until a fine golden color.
+
+
+=BATH BUNS=
+
+ 4 cupfuls of flour.
+ 1 cupful of milk.
+ 1/2 cupful of sugar.
+ 1/4 cupful of butter.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1/2 nutmeg grated.
+ 1/2 compressed yeast-cake.
+ 3 eggs.
+
+Mix the salt, sugar, and grated nutmeg with the flour. Scald the milk
+and melt the butter in it. Dissolve the yeast in a quarter cupful of
+lukewarm water. When the scalded milk has become lukewarm, add to it the
+dissolved yeast and the eggs, which have been well beaten, the yolks and
+whites separately; then add the flour. Use more flour than given in the
+receipt, if necessary, but keep the dough as soft as possible. Knead it
+on a board for twenty minutes. Let it rise over night in a warm place,
+well covered. In the morning turn it on to the molding-board, roll it
+and rub it lightly with butter, then fold it several times, cut it into
+pieces the size of a large egg, and mold it into balls. The folding is
+to make it peel off in layers when baked, but may be omitted if desired.
+Press into the side of each bun, after it is molded, a piece of citron
+and lump of sugar wet with lemon-juice. Place the buns in a baking-tin
+and let them rise to more than double their size. Brush the tops with
+egg diluted with water to give a brown crust. Bake in a moderate oven
+for half an hour. When baked, brush over the tops with sugar dissolved
+in milk, and return to the oven for a few minutes to glaze. Sprinkle a
+little powdered sugar over the tops as soon as they are removed from the
+oven.
+
+
+=COFFEE CAKE=
+
+Take two cupfuls of bread sponge, add one egg well beaten, a half cupful
+of sugar, a tablespoonful of butter, and a cupful of tepid water. Mix
+them well together, then add enough flour to make a thin dough. Let it
+rise until double in size. Turn it on a board, and roll it out an inch
+thick. Place it in a baking-tin, cutting it to fit the tin, and let it
+rise again until light. Just before placing it in the oven, spread over
+the top an egg beaten with a teaspoonful of sugar. Sprinkle over this
+some granulated sugar, and a few split blanched almonds. If preferred,
+the dough may be twisted and shaped into rings instead of being baked in
+sheets. This cake, which is a kind of bun, is, as well as bath buns, a
+good luncheon dish to serve in place of cake; or either of them, served
+with a cup of chocolate, makes a good light luncheon in itself.
+
+
+=BRIOCHE=
+
+Brioche is a kind of light bun mixture much used in France. It has many
+uses, and is much esteemed. It will not be found difficult or
+troublesome to make after the first trial. The paste once made can be
+used for plain brioche cakes, buns, rings, baba, savarins, fruit
+timbales (see page 406), cabinet puddings, etc.
+
+ 1 cake of compressed yeast.
+ 1/4 cupful of lukewarm water.
+ 1 quart of flour.
+ 7 eggs.
+ 3/4 pound of butter.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 2 teaspoonfuls of sugar.
+
+Dissolve the yeast-cake in a quarter of a cupful of lukewarm water. Stir
+it so it will be thoroughly mixed, then add enough flour to make a very
+soft ball of paste. Drop this ball into a pan of warm water (the water
+must not be hot, or it will kill the yeast plant). Cover, and set it in
+a warm place to rise, which will take about an hour. This is for leaven
+to raise the brioche. The ball of paste will sink to the bottom of the
+water at first, but will rise to the top later, and be full of bubbles.
+
+Put the rest of the flour on a platter, and make a well in the center of
+it. Into this well put the butter, salt, sugar, and four eggs. Break the
+eggs in whole, and have the butter rather soft. Work them together with
+the hand, gradually incorporating the flour, and adding two more eggs,
+one at a time. Work and beat it with the hand until it loses its
+stickiness, which will take some time. When the leaven is sufficiently
+light, lift it out of the water with a skimmer, and place it with the
+dough. Work them together, add one more egg, the last of the seven, and
+beat it for a long time, using the hand. The longer it is beaten the
+better and the finer will be the grain. Put the paste in a bowl, cover,
+and let it rise to double its size, which will take four to five hours;
+then beat it down again, and place it on the ice for twelve or
+twenty-four hours. As beating and raising the paste require so much
+time, the work should be started the day before it is to be used.
+
+After taking the paste from the ice, it will still be quite soft, and
+have to be handled delicately and quickly. It softens more as it becomes
+warm.
+
+
+=TO MAKE A BRIOCHE ROLL WITH HEAD=
+
+Take up carefully a little of the paste, and turn it into a ball about
+three inches in diameter; flatten it a little on top, and with a knife
+open a little place on top, and lay a small ball of paste into it. Let
+it rise to double its size, and bake in a moderate oven for twenty to
+thirty minutes. If a glazed top is wanted, brush it over with egg yolk
+diluted one half with water, before putting it in the oven. Serve hot or
+perfectly fresh.
+
+
+=TO MAKE A BRIOCHE CROWN OR RING=
+
+Roll the paste into a ball, roll it down to a thickness of half an inch,
+keeping the form round. Cut it several times through the middle, and
+twist the paste into a rope-like ring. Let it rise, brush the top with
+egg, and bake in a well-heated oven for about half an hour.
+
+
+=TO MAKE BUNS=
+
+Roll the paste into small balls, glaze the tops when ready to go into
+the oven, and bake about twenty minutes.
+
+
+=BRIOCHE FOR TIMBALE, OR CABINET PUDDINGS=
+
+When the brioche is to be used for timbales, or cabinet puddings, turn
+the paste into a cylindrical mold, filling it half full. Let it rise to
+the top of the mold, and bake in a hot oven for about half an hour.
+
+
+=PANCAKES=
+
+The batter for pancakes should be smooth, and thin enough to run freely
+when turned onto the griddle. In order to have all the cakes of the same
+size an equal quantity of batter must be used for each cake. It should
+be poured steadily at one point, so the batter will flow evenly in all
+directions, making the cake perfectly round. An iron spoonful of batter
+makes a cake of good size; but if a larger one is wanted, use a ladle or
+cup; for if the batter is put on the hot griddle by separate spoonfuls,
+the first becomes a little hardened before the second is added, and the
+cake will not be evenly baked, or have so good an appearance. Lastly,
+the baking is of great importance. The cakes must be well browned on
+both sides, the color even and uniform on every part. To effect this the
+griddle must be perfectly clean and evenly heated. A soap-stone griddle
+is the best, as it holds the heat well, and as it requires no greasing.
+The cakes baked thus are by some considered more wholesome. The griddle
+should stand on the range for some time before it is needed in order to
+get thoroughly and evenly heated. Where an iron griddle is used, it
+should also be given time to become evenly heated, and while the cakes
+are baking it should be moved so the edges may in turn come over the
+hottest part of the range. It must be wiped off and greased after each
+set of cakes is baked. A piece of salt pork on a fork is the best thing
+for greasing, as it makes an even coating, and too much grease is not
+likely to be used. An iron griddle is often allowed by careless cooks to
+collect a crust of burned grease around the edges. When in this
+condition, the cakes will not, of course, be properly baked. The griddle
+should be hot enough to hiss when the batter is turned onto it. Serve
+the cakes as soon as baked, in a folded napkin on a hot plate. Two
+plates should be used, so while one is being passed the next griddleful
+may be prepared to serve.
+
+
+=PLAIN PANCAKES=
+
+Stir two cupfuls of milk into two beaten eggs; add enough flour to make
+a thin batter. Add a half teaspoonful of salt and a heaping teaspoonful
+of baking-powder. Sour milk can be used, in which case omit the
+baking-powder and add a half teaspoonful of soda. The baking-powder or
+soda should not be put in until just before beginning to bake the cakes.
+The cakes will be lighter and better if the eggs are beaten separately,
+and the whipped whites added the last thing.
+
+
+=FLANNEL CAKES=
+
+ 1 tablespoonful of butter.
+ 1 tablespoonful of sugar.
+ 2 eggs.
+ 2 cupfuls of flour.
+ Milk.
+ 1 teaspoonful of baking-powder.
+
+Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, add the beaten eggs, then the
+flour, in which the baking-powder has been sifted. Add enough milk to
+make a smooth, thin batter.
+
+
+=RICE PANCAKES=
+
+Make the same batter as for plain cakes, using half boiled rice and half
+flour. Any of the cereals--hominy, oatmeal, cracked wheat, etc.--can be
+used in the same way, utilizing any small quantities left over; a little
+butter is sometimes added.
+
+
+=BREAD PANCAKES=
+
+Soak stale bread in hot water until moistened; press out the water. To
+two cupfuls of softened bread, add two beaten eggs, a teaspoonful of
+salt, a half cupful of flour, and enough milk to make a thin, smooth
+batter; add, the last thing, a teaspoonful of baking-powder, or use soda
+if sour milk has been used in the batter.
+
+
+=CORNMEAL PANCAKES=
+
+Pour a little boiling water on a cupful of cornmeal, and let it stand
+half an hour. Add a teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of sugar, one
+egg and two cupfuls of flour. Add enough milk to make a smooth batter,
+and a teaspoonful of baking-powder just before baking. Instead of white
+flour rye meal may be used: one cupful of rye to one of cornmeal, a
+tablespoonful of molasses instead of the sugar, and soda in place of
+baking-powder.
+
+
+=BUCKWHEAT CAKES=
+
+Scald a cupful of yellow meal in a quart of boiling milk. Add a half
+teaspoonful of salt; when cold add a quarter of a compressed yeast-cake,
+and enough buckwheat flour to make a soft batter. Beat it well together.
+Let it rise over night. In the morning stir in a tablespoonful of
+molasses and a teaspoonful of soda. Although the above method is the old
+and better way, these cakes can be made in the morning, and
+baking-powder used instead of yeast; in which case divide the batter,
+and add the baking-powder, one half at a time.
+
+
+=ADIRONDACK PANCAKES=
+
+Bake several pancakes as large as a plate. Butter, and cover them with
+maple syrup. Pile them one on another, and cut like a pie.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI
+
+SANDWICHES
+
+
+=SANDWICHES AND CANAPES=
+
+Sandwiches are usually the chief reliance for cold lunches,
+and are always acceptable if well made and attractively
+served. Where they are to be kept some time, as in
+traveling, they should be wrapped in oiled or paraffin
+paper, for this will keep them perfectly fresh.
+
+Sandwiches may be made of white, Graham, or brown bread, or of
+fresh rolls, and may be filled with any kind of meat, with
+fish, with salads, with eggs, with jams, or with chopped nuts.
+
+ [Sidenote: Shapes.]
+
+They may be cut into any shapes, the square and triangular
+ones being the usual forms, but a pleasant variety may be
+given by stamping them with a biscuit-cutter into circles,
+or by rolling them, and these forms are recommended for
+sandwiches made of jams or jellies, as it gives them a more
+distinctive character.
+
+ [Sidenote: How to prepare the meat.]
+
+The meat used in sandwiches should be chopped to a fine mince,
+seasoned with salt and pepper, mustard, if desired, and
+moistened with a little water, stock, cream or milk, or with a
+salad dressing, using enough to make the mince spread well.
+Fish can be pounded to a paste, then seasoned. Potted meats
+can also be used. Slices of anything that has a fibrous
+texture make the sandwich difficult to eat, and as knives and
+forks are not usually at hand when sandwiches are served, it
+is desirable to make the primitive way of eating as little
+objectionable as possible.
+
+ [Sidenote: Butter.]
+
+The butter for sandwiches should be of the best, and should
+be soft enough to spread easily without tearing the bread.
+The butter may sometimes be worked into the meat paste. What
+are called "sandwich butters" are frequently used. They are
+made by rubbing the butter to a cream, combined with anchovy
+paste, with mustard, with chopped parsley and tarragon, with
+pate de foie gras, etc.
+
+These butters are used to spread the bread for meat
+sandwiches, using with the butter any flavoring that will go
+well with the meat.
+
+[Illustration: BREAD-AND-BUTTER SANDWICHES.
+
+Made of White, Graham, and Boston Brown Bread. (See page 364.)]
+
+ [Sidenote: Rolls.]
+
+When rolls are used for sandwiches, they should be very
+fresh, should be small, and have a tender crust. The finger
+rolls are good for the purpose, also Parker House rolls,
+when made in suitable shape. Graham bread makes excellent
+sandwiches.
+
+ [Sidenote: How to prepare the bread.]
+
+Bread for sandwiches should be of fine grain and a day old. A
+five-cent loaf cuts to good advantage. The crust should be cut
+off, and the loaf trimmed to good shape before the slices are
+cut. The crusts and trimmings can be dried for crumbs, so they
+are not wasted, and no butter is lost in spreading bread which
+will afterward be trimmed off. When the bread is ready, the
+butter should be spread on the loaf, and then a slice cut off
+evenly one eighth of an inch thick. The next slice will have
+to be cut off before being spread, in order to have it fit
+exactly the preceding piece. After the first slice is covered
+with the filling, lay the second slice on it. In many cases
+the second slice of bread does not need spreading with butter.
+Cut the sandwich to the desired shape. One cut across the loaf
+will make two square, or four triangular, sandwiches.
+
+ [Sidenote: Meat sandwiches.]
+
+Poultry, game, ham, beef, and tongue can be prepared as
+directed above, or they may be mixed with a French or a
+Mayonnaise dressing. Chicken pounded to a paste, then well
+mixed with a paste made of the yolks of hard-boiled eggs
+mashed, a little milk or cream, and a little butter, then
+seasoned with salt, pepper, and a few drops of onion-juice,
+makes a delicious chicken sandwich.
+
+ [Sidenote: Fish sandwiches.]
+
+Anchovies, sardines, or any fresh boiled fish may be used
+for sandwiches. It is better pounded to a paste. Moisten
+sardines with a little lemon-juice.
+
+Fresh fish should be well seasoned with salt and pepper, and
+moistened with a white or any other sauce, or with Mayonnaise.
+A little chopped pickle may be added. Shad roe, mashed with a
+fork to separate the eggs, and seasoned in the same way, makes
+excellent sandwiches.
+
+NOTE.--Sandwiches of any kind which are left over are good
+toasted, and can be served at luncheon.--M. R.
+
+
+=EGG SANDWICHES=
+
+ No. 1. Cut hard-boiled eggs into slices; sprinkle with
+ salt and pepper plentifully, and spread the bread
+ with butter mixed with chopped parsley.
+
+ No. 2. Lay the sliced eggs between crisp lettuce leaves,
+ and spread the bread with butter, then with
+ Mayonnaise.
+
+ No. 3. Chop the hard-boiled eggs fine. Mix with Mayonnaise
+ and spread on the buttered bread, or mix them with
+ well-seasoned white sauce.
+
+
+=SALAD SANDWICHES=
+
+ No. 1. Lay a crisp lettuce leaf sprinkled with salt
+ between buttered thin slices of bread; or spread the
+ bread with Mayonnaise, then with lettuce or with
+ water-cress.
+
+ No. 2. Chop chicken and celery together fine; mix it with
+ French or with Mayonnaise dressing.
+
+ No. 3. Chop lobster meat; mix it with any dressing; cut
+ lettuce into ribbons; cover the bread with the
+ lettuce; then a layer of lobster; then with lettuce
+ again.
+
+ No. 4. Mix chopped olives with Mayonnaise; serve with
+ afternoon tea.
+
+
+=SPANISH SANDWICHES=
+
+Spread buttered Graham bread with mustard; then with a layer of cottage
+cheese; and then with a layer of chopped olives mixed with Mayonnaise.
+
+
+=CHEESE SANDWICHES=
+
+ No. 1. Cut American cheese in slices one-eighth of an inch
+ thick, or about the same thickness as the bread.
+ Sprinkle it with salt, and have the bread well
+ buttered.
+
+ No. 2. Cut Gruyere cheese in thin slices. Lay it on the
+ bread, sprinkle it with salt and pepper; then add
+ French mustard.
+
+ No. 3. Grate any cheese. Rub it to a paste with butter,
+ and spread the bread; dust with salt and pepper. Cut
+ into strips and serve with salad.
+
+ No. 4. Mock Crab. Rub to a smooth paste one tablespoonful
+ of butter, two tablespoonfuls of grated cheese, a
+ saltspoonful each of salt, paprica, and dry mustard,
+ a little anchovy paste, and a teaspoonful of vinegar.
+ Spread between thin slices of dry toast.
+
+
+=RAW BEEF SANDWICHES=
+
+Scrape the raw beef; spread it between thin slices of plain bread.
+Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place the sandwiches on a toaster, and
+hold them over the coals until well heated. Serve them hot.
+
+
+=SWEET SANDWICHES=
+
+ No. 1. For AEsthetic Sandwiches, see chapter "Five O'clock
+ Tea," page 33.
+
+ No. 2. Spread thin slices of bread with any jam, or with
+ fruit jelly, or with any preserved fruit, or with
+ chopped canned fruit. Cut them into circles, or roll
+ them as directed above.
+
+ No. 3. Spread very thin buttered slices of Boston brown
+ bread with chopped walnuts, or with chopped almonds,
+ or with both mixed, or with salted nuts chopped.
+
+
+=CANAPES=
+
+Canapes are slices of bread toasted or fried in hot fat, or dipped in
+butter, and browned in the oven. The slices are then covered with some
+seasoned mixture. They are served hot, and make a good first course for
+luncheon. The bread is cut a quarter of an inch thick, then into circles
+two and a half inches in diameter, or into strips four inches long and
+two inches wide. They are sometimes used cold, and are arranged
+fancifully with different-colored meats, pickles, eggs, etc.
+
+
+=CHEESE CANAPES=
+
+Cut bread into slices one quarter inch thick, four inches long and two
+inches wide. Spread it with butter, and sprinkle it with salt and
+cayenne or paprica. Cover the top with grated American cheese, or with
+grated Parmesan cheese, and bake in the oven until the cheese is
+softened. Serve at once, before the cheese hardens.
+
+
+=HAM CANAPES=
+
+Cut bread into slices a quarter inch thick, then with a small
+biscuit-cutter into circles; fry them in hot fat, or saute them in
+butter. Pound some chopped ham to a paste; moisten it with cream or
+milk. Spread it on the fried bread; dust with cayenne, sprinkle the top
+with grated Parmesan cheese, and place in a hot oven until a little
+browned.
+
+
+=ANCHOVY CANAPES=
+
+Spread strips of fried bread with anchovy paste. Arrange in lines, on
+top, alternate rows of the white and yolks of hard-boiled eggs chopped
+fine.
+
+
+=SARDINE CANAPES=
+
+Spread circles of fried bread with a layer of sardines pounded to a
+paste. Arrange on top, in circles to resemble a rosette, lines of
+chopped hard-boiled egg and chopped pickle.
+
+
+=CANAPE LORENZO=
+
+ 2 tablespoonfuls of butter.
+ 2 tablespoonfuls of flour.
+ 1 slice of onion.
+ 1 cupful of stock.
+ 1 cupful of crab meat.
+ 1 tablespoonful of milk.
+ 2-1/2 tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese.
+ 2-1/2 tablespoonfuls of Swiss cheese.
+ Salt, pepper, and cayenne.
+
+Put in a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter, and fry in it one slice
+of onion chopped fine, but do not brown; then add one tablespoonful of
+flour and cook, but do not brown; add the stock slowly, and when smooth
+add the cooked crab meat. Season highly with salt, pepper, and cayenne,
+and let simmer for six or eight minutes.
+
+Put into another saucepan one tablespoonful of butter; when melted, add
+one tablespoonful of flour and cook, but not brown; then add the milk
+and stir in the cheese, and let cook just long enough to soften the
+cheese. Remove from the fire and let cool; then form the cheese mixture
+into six balls. Have ready six slices or circles of buttered toast, or
+bread fried in butter, and cover them with a layer of the crab mixture,
+and in the center of each piece place a ball of the cheese. Place in a
+hot oven for five minutes.
+
+This is a good supper dish, and may be made of lobster, fish, or
+chicken.
+
+Serve with water-cress.
+
+
+=CHEESE AND CHEESE DISHES=
+
+ [Sidenote: Varieties.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Serving.]
+
+Among the best cheeses are Stilton, Cheshire, Camembert,
+Gorgonzola, Rocquefort, Edam, Gruyere, and Parmesan. The
+Parmesan is a high-flavored, hard Italian cheese, and is
+mostly used grated for cooking. Our American dairy cheeses are
+much esteemed, and are largely exported to foreign markets;
+but as they have no distinctive names, it is difficult to
+find a second time any one that is particularly liked. The
+Pineapple cheese is the only one that differs radically from
+the other so-called American cheeses. The foreign cheeses are,
+nearly all of them, very successfully imitated here. Cheese is
+served with crackers, wafer biscuits, or with celery after the
+dessert, or with salad before the hot dessert. Any of the
+cheese dishes, such as souffle, ramekins, omelets, etc., are
+served before the dessert. Cheese straws are used with salad.
+Cheeses small enough to be passed whole, like Edam, Pineapple,
+etc., have the top cut off, plain or in notches, and are
+wrapped in a neatly plaited napkin. The top is replaced after
+the service, so as to keep the cheese moist. A Stilton or
+Chester cheese is cut in two, and one half, wrapped in a
+napkin, served at a time. Rocquefort and Gorgonzola are served
+in the large slice cut from the cheese and laid on a folded
+napkin. American dairy cheese is cut into small uniform
+pieces. The soft cheeses, Brie, Neuchatel, etc., are divested
+of the tinfoil and scraped before being passed. They are
+placed on a lace paper. Fresh butter, wafer biscuits, and
+celery are passed with cheese.
+
+
+=CHEESE SOUFFLE=
+
+ 2 tablespoonfuls of butter.
+ 1 heaping tablespoonful of flour.
+ 1/2 cupful of milk.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of salt.
+ Dash of cayenne.
+ 3 eggs.
+ 1 cupful of grated cheese.
+
+Put into a saucepan the butter; when it is melted stir in the flour and
+let it cook a minute (but not color), stirring all the time; add one
+half cupful of milk slowly and stir till smooth, then add salt and
+cayenne. Remove from the fire and add, stirring constantly, the beaten
+yolks of three eggs and the cupful of grated American or Parmesan
+cheese. Replace it on the fire, and stir until the cheese is melted and
+the paste smooth and consistent (do not cook too long, or the butter
+will separate). Pour the mixture on a buttered dish and set away to
+cool. When ready to use, stir into it lightly the well-beaten whites of
+the three eggs; turn it into a pudding-dish and bake in a hot oven for
+twenty to thirty minutes. Do not open the oven door for ten minutes; do
+not slam the oven door; do not move the souffle until after fifteen
+minutes; serve it at once when done. Like any souffle, it must go
+directly from the oven to the table, or it will fall.
+
+
+=CRACKERS AND CHEESE=
+
+Split in two some Bent's water biscuits; moisten them with hot water and
+pour over each piece a little melted butter and French mustard; then
+spread with a thick layer of grated cheese; sprinkle with paprica or
+cayenne. Place them in a hot oven until the cheese is soft and creamy.
+
+
+=CHEESE CANAPES=
+
+Cut bread into slices one half inch thick; stamp them with a biscuit
+cutter into circles; then, moving the cutter to one side, cut them into
+crescent form; or, if preferred, cut the bread into strips three inches
+long and one and one half inches wide; saute them in a little butter on
+both sides to an amber color. Cover them with a thick layer of grated
+cheese; sprinkle with salt, pepper, and dash of cayenne. Fifteen minutes
+before the time to serve, place them in the oven to soften the cheese.
+Serve at once very hot; or, cut some toasted bread into small triangles;
+spread with a little French mustard; dip in melted butter; then roll in
+grated cheese; sprinkle with salt, pepper, and dash of cayenne, and
+place in a hot oven for a few minutes to soften the cheese. Serve at
+once on a hot dish.
+
+
+=WELSH RABBIT=
+
+ 1 pound of cheese.
+ 1/2 cupful of ale or beer.
+ Dash of cayenne.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of dry mustard.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of salt.
+ Slices of toast.
+
+Grate or cut into small pieces fresh American cheese. Place it in a
+saucepan or chafing-dish with three quarters of the ale. Stir until it
+is entirely melted; then season with the mustard, salt, and pepper, and
+pour it over the slices of hot toast, cut in triangles or circles.
+Everything must be very hot, and it must be served at once, as the
+cheese quickly hardens. Some use a scant teaspoonful of butter (more
+will not unite), a few drops of onion-juice, and the beaten yolks of two
+eggs, added just before serving. The egg makes it a little richer and
+prevents the cheese hardening so quickly. Milk may be used instead of
+ale to melt the cheese, in which case the egg should also be used. If
+any of the cheese fondu is left, it can be heated again with the rest of
+the ale for the second helping.
+
+
+=GOLDEN BUCK=
+
+Make Welsh rarebits as directed above, and place on each one a poached
+egg (see page 263).
+
+
+=CHEESE STRAWS=
+
+Mix with one cupful of flour one half cupful of grated Parmesan cheese,
+a dash of cayenne, one half teaspoonful of salt, and the yolk of one
+egg; then add enough water to make a paste sufficiently consistent to
+roll. Place it on a board and roll to one quarter inch thickness. Cut it
+into narrow strips and roll so each piece will be the size and length of
+a lead pencil. Place them in a baking-tin and press each end on the pan
+so they will not contract. Bake to a light brown in a moderate oven.
+Serve with salad. These straws will keep for several days, and should be
+heated just before serving.
+
+
+=CHEESE STRAWS No. 2=
+
+Take bits of puff paste; roll them to one half inch thickness; cut them
+into strips one inch wide and three inches long; sprinkle them with
+grated cheese and bake; or, the pastry may be rolled to one quarter inch
+thickness; then spread with cheese, doubled over, and then cut into
+strips, leaving the cheese between two layers of paste.
+
+
+=CHEESE PATTIES=
+
+Make some small round croustades as directed (page 82). Dip them in
+butter and toast them in the oven to a delicate color. Fill the centers
+with a mixture of two ounces of grated cheese, one half tablespoonful of
+butter, one tablespoonful of milk, a little salt and pepper. Place the
+croustades again in the oven to melt the cheese. Serve very hot.
+
+
+=COTTAGE CHEESE=
+
+Place a panful of milk which has soured enough to become thick, or
+clabbered, over a pan of hot water. Let it heat slowly until the whey
+has separated from the curd; do not let it boil, or the curd will become
+tough; then strain it through a cloth and press out all the whey; stir
+into the curd enough butter, cream, and salt to make it a little moist
+and of good flavor. Work it well with a spoon until it becomes fine
+grained and consistent, then mold it into balls of any size desired.
+
+
+=FONDUE=
+
+See page 335.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII
+
+SALADS
+
+
+ [Sidenote: Drying the salad.]
+
+Nearly all the meats, vegetables, and fruits may be served as
+salads. The essential thing is to have the salad fresh and
+cold; and if green, to have the leaves crisp and dry. If any
+water is left on leaves, the dressing will not adhere to them,
+but will run to the bottom of the dish, and both the salad and
+the dressing will be poor. All greens should be carefully
+washed in cold water to free them from dust and insects, and
+to make them crisp. After they have stood fifteen to twenty
+minutes in cold or ice water, free them from moisture by
+swinging them in a wire basket, or dry, without bruising, each
+leaf carefully with a napkin. The dressing is added only at
+the moment of serving, as the salad wilts if allowed to stand
+after the dressing is added. The green salads are the most
+simple of any, and are especially worthy the little care
+required to make them perfect.
+
+ [Sidenote: Cutting the meat.]
+
+Meat of any kind used for salads should be cut into dice, but
+not smaller than one half inch, or it will seem like hash. It
+should be marinated before being mixed with the other parts of
+the salad. Meat mixtures are usually piled in cone-shape on a
+dish, the Mayonnaise then spread over it, and garnished with
+lettuce, capers, hard-boiled eggs, gherkins, etc.
+
+ [Sidenote: Marinating.]
+
+TO MARINATE.--Take one part of oil and three of vinegar, with
+pepper and salt to taste; stir them into the meat, and let it
+stand a couple of hours; drain off any of the marinade which
+has not been absorbed, before combining the meat with the
+other parts of the salad. Use only enough marinade to season
+the meat.
+
+French dressing is used with green vegetable salads, and
+either Mayonnaise or French dressing with potato and tomato
+salads.
+
+ [Sidenote: Fish salads.]
+
+Lettuce, water-cress, fetticus, sorrel, or other leaf salads
+are better with French dressing. A boiled fish can be served
+whole as a salad for suppers or luncheons, or in hot weather
+as a fish course for dinner. It may be covered, all but the
+head and tail, with a thick coating of green or red jelly
+Mayonnaise (see page 290), and elaborately decorated with
+capers, olives, gherkins, hard-boiled eggs, and lettuce.
+Salmon, blue fish, bass, or any firm fish, serves this purpose.
+Fish may also be cut into cutlets of equal size and shape,
+and covered with jelly Mayonnaise garnished in the same way.
+
+Nasturtium blossoms make a good garnish, and also add a good
+flavor to green salads.
+
+
+=MAYONNAISE=
+
+The receipts for Mayonnaise are given on pages 288-290. White
+Mayonnaise, instead of that having the color of the eggs, is the fancy
+of to-day. The yolks will whiten by being stirred before the oil is
+added, and lemon-juice, used instead of vinegar, also serves to whiten
+the dressing; so it is not always necessary to add whipped cream,
+although the cream gives a very delicate and delicious Mayonnaise. The
+jelly Mayonnaise is used for molded salads, and will be found very good,
+as well as useful, for the class of salads served at suppers, etc.
+
+
+=FRENCH DRESSING=
+
+This dressing is the most simple, and the best one to use with green
+salads for dinner. The proportions are one tablespoonful of vinegar to
+three of oil, one half teaspoonful of salt, and one quarter teaspoonful
+of pepper. Mix the salt and pepper with the oil; then stir in slowly the
+vinegar, and it will become white and a little thickened, like an
+emulsion. Some like a dash of paprica or red pepper. When intended for
+lettuce salad it is much improved by using a little tarragon vinegar
+with the wine vinegar. More oil may be used if preferred, but the
+mixture should be so blended as to taste of neither the oil nor the
+vinegar.
+
+
+=LETTUCE SALAD=
+
+Use only the tender leaves. Let them stand half an hour in cold water to
+become crisp. Rub the inside of the salad bowl lightly with an onion.
+Wipe the lettuce leaves perfectly dry without bruising them, and arrange
+them in the bowl in circles, the heart leaves in the center. Sprinkle
+over them a teaspoonful of mixed tarragon, parsley, and chives, chopped
+fine; pour over the French dressing, and toss them lightly together.
+French lettuce salads always have chopped herbs mixed with them, and
+they are a great improvement to the salad. If all of them are not at
+hand, any one of them may be used alone. The salad should be put
+together only just before being served, or its crispness will be lost.
+Nasturtium blossoms, small radishes cut into flowers, or a few white
+chicory leaves may be used with plain lettuce salad.
+
+
+=WATER-CRESS AND APPLES=
+
+Prepare the water-cress the same as lettuce, letting it become crisp in
+cold water, then drying it thoroughly. Mix it with French dressing. A
+few thin slices of sour apple with water-cress makes a good salad to
+serve with ducks.
+
+A chopped hard-boiled egg sprinkled over the top of water-cress is a
+good garnish, and improves the salad.
+
+[Illustration: SALAD OF WATER-CRESS GARNISHED WITH RADISHES CUT TO
+RESEMBLE ROSES.]
+
+
+=CELERY SALAD=
+
+Wash and scrape the tender stalks of celery, cut them into one quarter
+inch pieces, or into straws two inches long, or cut them in pieces
+one and a half inches long, and slice them in small strips nearly to the
+end; place them in ice-water for a few minutes to curl them. Mix the
+celery with either French or Mayonnaise dressing, and garnish with
+lettuce leaves or celery tops.
+
+
+=CUCUMBER AND TOMATO SALAD=
+
+Slice cucumbers and tomatoes into pieces of equal thickness, and lay
+them alternately around a bunch of white lettuce leaves. Pass separately
+either a French or Mayonnaise dressing, or both.
+
+
+=CUCUMBER SALAD TO SERVE WITH FISH=
+
+Peel the cucumbers, and place them in cold water to become crisp. Do not
+use salt in the water, as is sometimes recommended, as it wilts and
+makes them indigestible. Cut the cucumbers in two lengthwise, and lay
+them, with the flat side down, on the dish on which they are to be
+served. Slice them without destroying their shape, and pour on them a
+French dressing.
+
+[Illustration: CUCUMBERS CUT IN HALVES LENGTHWISE AND THEN SLICED TO
+SERVE WITH FISH.]
+
+
+=STRING-BEAN SALAD=
+
+Cut each bean in four strips lengthwise; lay them evenly together and
+boil in salted water until tender. Remove them carefully and drain. When
+they are cold and ready to serve, pile them on a flat dish, trim the
+ends even, and pour over them slowly a French dressing. Garnish with
+parsley, white chicory leaves or nasturtium leaves.
+
+[Illustration: STRING-BEAN SALAD.]
+
+
+=BEAN SALADS=
+
+Boiled navy beans, flageolets, or Lima beans may be mixed with French or
+Mayonnaise dressing, and garnished with hard-boiled eggs and parsley.
+
+
+=CAULIFLOWER SALAD=
+
+Break the vegetable into flowerets; season with salt, pepper, and a
+little vinegar and oil. Pile them in a pyramid on a dish, and pour over
+them a white Mayonnaise. Arrange around the base a border of carrots or
+beets, cut into dice or fancy shapes, to give a line of color. Place a
+floweret of cauliflower on the top of the pyramid.
+
+
+=MACEDOINE SALAD=
+
+This salad is composed of a mixture of vegetables. The vegetables are
+boiled separately; the large ones are then cut into dice of equal size.
+The salad is more attractive when the vegetables are cut with fancy
+cutters or with a small potato-scoop. Peas, flageolets, string beans,
+flowerets of cauliflower, beets, celery roots, asparagus points,
+carrots, and turnips--all, or as many as convenient, may be used. Mix
+them lightly with French dressing or with Mayonnaise. If the latter,
+marinate them first. Be careful not to break the vegetables when mixing
+them. Arrange lettuce leaves like a cup, and place the macedoine in the
+center.
+
+
+=POTATO SALAD=
+
+Boil the potatoes with the skins on; when cold remove the skins and cut
+them into slices three eighths inch thick, or into dice three quarters
+inch thick, or cut the potatoes into balls with a scoop; sprinkle them
+with a little grated onion and parsley, chopped very fine. Turn over
+them a French dressing. They will absorb a great deal. Toss them lightly
+together, but do not break the potatoes, which are very tender. A
+Mayonnaise dressing is also very good with marinated potatoes. A mixture
+of beets and potatoes with Mayonnaise is also used. Garnish with
+lettuce, chopped yolk of hard-boiled egg and capers. In boiling potatoes
+for salad, do not steam them after they are boiled, as they should not
+be mealy. New or German potatoes are best for salad.
+
+
+=COLD SLAW=
+
+Shred a firm cabbage very fine. Mix it with a French dressing, using an
+extra quantity of salt, or put into a bowl the yolks of three eggs, one
+half cupful of vinegar (if it is very strong dilute it with water), one
+tablespoonful of butter, one half teaspoonful each of mustard and
+pepper, and one teaspoonful each of sugar and salt. Beat them together,
+place the bowl in a pan of boiling water, and stir until it becomes a
+little thickened. Pour this while hot over the cabbage, and set it away
+to cool.
+
+
+=HOT SLAW=
+
+Place shredded cabbage in a saucepan with enough salted boiling water to
+cover it. Boil it until tender, but not so long as to lose shape; turn
+it onto a sieve and drain it well in a warm place. Pour over the drained
+cabbage a hot Bearnaise sauce.
+
+Cabbage salads are good to serve with fried oysters, meat fritters, or
+chops.
+
+The boiled cabbage, cold, may be used with French dressing.
+
+
+=TOMATO SALADS=
+
+To remove the skins from tomatoes, place them in a wire-basket, and
+plunge them into boiling water for a minute. This is better than letting
+them soak in the water, which softens them if left too long.
+
+
+=No. 1.=
+
+Select tomatoes of the same size and shape; peel, and place them on ice
+until ready to use; then cut each one in two and place on each piece a
+teaspoonful of Mayonnaise. Dress them on a bed of lettuce leaves; or,
+slice the tomatoes without breaking their form, place each one on a leaf
+of lettuce, cover the tomato with Mayonnaise, and sprinkle over a little
+parsley chopped fine; or scoop out a little of the center from the stem
+end and fill it with dressing.
+
+An attractive salad is made of the small yellow tomatoes which resemble
+plums. Remove the skin carefully; let them get thoroughly cold; then
+pile them on a dish the same as fruit, garnish with leaves of lettuce,
+and pour over them a French dressing.
+
+
+=No. 2. STUFFED TOMATOES=
+
+Select round tomatoes of equal size; peel and scoop from the stem end a
+part of the center. Place them on ice until ready to serve; then fill
+them with celery cut fine and mixed with Mayonnaise. Let it rise above
+the top of the tomato. Put a little Mayonnaise on small lettuce leaves,
+and place a stuffed tomato on the dressing in the center of each leaf.
+Arrange them in a circle on a flat dish. Tomatoes may be stuffed in the
+same way with chopped veal, celery and veal or chicken, celery and
+sweetbreads, or chopped hard-boiled eggs and shredded lettuce.
+
+[Illustration: TOMATOES STUFFED WITH CELERY AND MAYONNAISE STANDING ON
+LETTUCE LEAVES.]
+
+
+=No. 3. TOMATOES AND EGGS=
+
+Prepare the tomatoes as above; partly fill them with Mayonnaise, and
+press into each one the half of a hard-boiled egg, letting the rounded
+top rise a little above the tomato. Serve on lettuce as above.
+
+
+=No. 4. MOLDED TOMATOES=
+
+Select small round tomatoes. Stuff them in any way directed above, but
+do not let the filling project beyond the opening. Place individual
+molds on ice. Small cups will do; pour in one eighth of an inch of clear
+aspic or chicken aspic (see page 323); when it has set, place in each
+one a tomato, the whole side down; add enough jelly to fix the tomato
+without floating it. When that has set, add enough more to entirely
+cover it (see Fancy Molding, page 323). Turn each molded tomato onto the
+plate on which it is to be served, and arrange around it a wreath of
+shredded lettuce. Pass Mayonnaise dressing separately.
+
+
+=No. 5. TOMATO JELLY=
+
+ 1/2 can or 2 cupfuls of tomatoes.
+ 3 cloves.
+ 1 bay-leaf.
+ 1 slice of onion.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of thyme.
+ 1 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1 teaspoonful of sugar.
+ 1/4 teaspoonful of pepper.
+ 1/4 box or 1/2 ounce of Cooper's gelatine, soaked in 1/2 cupful of water.
+
+Boil together the tomatoes, spices, and onion until the tomato is soft;
+then add the soaked gelatine, and stir until the gelatine is dissolved;
+then strain and pour it into a border or ring-shaped mold to set. Serve
+with the center of the jelly-ring filled with celery cut into pieces,
+into straws, or curled, and mixed with Mayonnaise. Form outside the ring
+a wreath of shredded lettuce.
+
+This jelly may also be molded in a solid piece and surrounded by the
+celery. (See illustration opposite page 384.)
+
+[Illustration: TOMATO JELLY MOLDED IN RING, THE CENTER FILLED WITH
+CURLED CELERY AND MAYONNAISE--LETTUCE CUT INTO RIBBONS AROUND THE
+OUTSIDE. (SEE PAGE 381.)]
+
+
+=CELERY AND WALNUT SALAD=
+
+Mix with the celery, cut into small pieces, one third the quantity of
+English walnut meats broken in two, and enough Mayonnaise to well
+moisten it. Garnish with lettuce.
+
+
+=SWEETBREADS WITH CELERY=
+
+Cut cold cooked sweetbreads into dice and mix with an equal quantity of
+celery. Cover with Mayonnaise and garnish with lettuce.
+
+
+=EGG SALAD No. 1=
+
+Cut hard-boiled eggs (see page 262) into thick slices or into quarters.
+Use a sharp knife so the cuts will be clean. Arrange each portion on a
+leaf of lettuce partly covered with Mayonnaise, and arrange the lettuce
+in a circle on a flat dish, the stem of the leaf toward the center of
+the dish. Place a bunch of nasturtium flowers or a bunch of white
+chicory leaves in the middle. (See illustration.)
+
+[Illustration: SALAD OF SLICED HARD-BOILED EGGS ARRANGED ON LETTUCE
+LEAVES, THE STALK ENDS OF THE LEAVES MEETING IN THE CENTER OF THE DISH.]
+
+
+=No. 2=
+
+Cut hard-boiled eggs in two, making the cut one third from the pointed
+end. Remove the yolks without breaking the whites; mash them and mix
+with chicken, chopped fine, and enough Mayonnaise to bind them. Fill the
+large half of the egg with the mixture, rounding it on top like a whole
+yolk. Invert the small pieces of white. Cut the pointed ends of both
+pieces flat, and stick them together with raw white of egg. Place the
+vase-shaped eggs on a flat dish, and fill the spaces with shredded
+lettuce. Pass Mayonnaise, as that put in the yolks will not be
+sufficient. (See illustration.)
+
+[Illustration: SALAD OF STUFFED EGGS GARNISHED WITH LETTUCE CUT INTO
+RIBBONS. (SEE PAGE 381.)]
+
+
+=ORANGE SALAD=
+
+Use for this salad sour oranges; if these cannot be obtained, strain
+over sweet oranges after they are sliced a little lemon-juice. Cut the
+oranges in thick slices, remove the seeds carefully, arrange them in
+rows, and turn over them a dressing made of one tablespoonful of
+lemon-juice to three of oil, with salt, and cayenne, or paprica to
+taste. Serve with game.
+
+Grape fruit may be used the same way, and walnut meats used with either.
+
+
+=CHICKEN SALAD=
+
+Cut cold cooked chicken into dice one half inch square, or into pieces
+of any shape, but not too small. Use only the white meat, if very
+particular as to appearance, but the dark meat is also good. Veal is
+sometimes substituted for chicken. Wash and scrape the tender stalks of
+celery. Cut them into small pieces, and dry them well. Use two thirds as
+much celery as chicken. Marinate the chicken as directed at the head of
+chapter. Keep it in a cold place until ready to serve; then mix with it
+the celery, and add lightly a little Mayonnaise. Place the mixture in a
+bowl, smooth the top, leaving it high in the center; cover it with
+Mayonnaise. Garnish with hard-boiled eggs, the whites and yolks chopped
+separately; also with sliced pickle, stoned olives, capers,
+lettuce-leaves, celery-tops, etc. Arrange any or all of these in as
+fanciful design as desired. Shredded lettuce may be used instead of
+celery if more convenient.
+
+
+=LOBSTER SALAD=
+
+Cut the boiled lobster into one inch pieces or larger. Marinate it, and
+keep in a cool place until ready to serve; then mix with it lightly a
+little Mayonnaise. Place it in the salad bowl; smooth the top, leaving
+it high in the center. Mask it with a thick covering of Mayonnaise.
+Sprinkle over it the powdered coral of the lobster. Place on top the
+heart of a head of lettuce, and around the salad a thick border of crisp
+lettuce-leaves, carefully selected.
+
+Shad roe, canned salmon, or any firm white fish mixed with Mayonnaise,
+and garnished with lettuce, may be served as a salad.
+
+
+=OYSTER SALAD=
+
+Scald the oysters in their own liquor until plump and frilled. Drain,
+and let them get very cold and dry. If large oysters, cut each one with
+a silver knife into four pieces. Just before serving mix them with
+Mayonnaise or Tartare sauce, and serve each portion on a leaf of
+lettuce. Celery may be mixed with oysters, and served the same way.
+
+
+=BOUILLI SALAD=
+
+Cut beef that has been boiled for soup into half-inch dice. Marinate it,
+using a little grated onion with the marinade. Mix it lightly with some
+cold boiled potatoes cut into half-inch dice, and some parsley chopped
+fine. Pour over it a French dressing, or Mayonnaise. Garnish with
+hard-boiled eggs and lettuce.
+
+
+=RUSSIAN SALAD=
+
+Fill the outside of a double mold with clear aspic jelly (see page 321),
+and the center with a macedoine of vegetables, or with celery, or with
+any one vegetable. Marinate the vegetables; then mix them with
+Mayonnaise made with jelly instead of eggs (see page 290). Cover the top
+with jelly so the vegetables will be completely enclosed (see directions
+for double molding, page 325). Turn the form of salad on a flat dish,
+and garnish with shredded lettuce.
+
+[Illustration: RUSSIAN MACEDOINE SALADS WITH ASPIC. PINK AND WHITE
+OUTSIDE, CENTER FILLED WITH CELERY, PEAS AND BEANS, MIXED WITH CHICKEN
+ASPIC.
+
+ 1. Turnip.
+ 2. Beet.
+ 3. Truffle.
+ 4. Red beets.
+ 5. Slices of hard-boiled egg.
+ 6. Olives.
+ 7. Turnip.
+ 8. Beet.
+ 9. Turnip.]
+
+
+=INDIVIDUAL RUSSIAN SALADS=
+
+Ornament the bottom of small timbale-molds with carrot cut into fancy
+shape in the center, and a row of green peas around the edge. Add
+enough clear aspic or chicken jelly to fix them, then fill the mold with
+jelly; when it has hardened, scoop out carefully with a hot spoon some
+of the jelly from the center, and fill the space at once with a
+macedoine of vegetables mixed with jelly Mayonnaise as above. Serve each
+form on a leaf of lettuce. Pass Mayonnaise separately.
+
+NOTE.--Molds of salad in aspic may be elaborately decorated with rows of
+different-colored vegetables, or they may be arranged in layers like the
+aspic of pate.
+
+Individual salads, when served for suppers, buffet lunches, etc., may be
+placed around graduated socles in a pyramid. Decorations of capers and
+parsley, also of truffles and tongue, are suitable for Russian salads.
+
+[Illustration: INDIVIDUAL SALADS.
+
+ 1. Pate de foie gras and aspic jelly in layers. Daisy decoration made
+ of hard-boiled egg.
+ 2. Russian Salad decorated with green peas or capers.]
+
+
+=ASPIC OF PATE EN BELLEVUE=
+
+Ornament the bottom of individual timbale molds with a daisy design made
+of hard-boiled egg as directed, page 326; fix it with a little jelly;
+then add a layer of jelly one quarter inch thick, and a layer of pate de
+foie gras alternately until the mold is full. Any forcemeat may be used
+in the same way. Turn the molds onto a flat dish and surround them with
+shredded lettuce, or place them on an ornamented socle. Pass Mayonnaise.
+(See illustration facing page 328.)
+
+[Illustration: PATE DE FOIE GRAS EN BELLEVUE. SLICES OF PATE ALTERNATING
+WITH ASPIC--MOLDED IN INDIVIDUAL TIMBALE MOLDS. FORMS STANDING ON RICE
+SOCLE DECORATED WITH TONGUE AND PICKLE--GARNISHED WITH BUNCH OF RED
+CARNATIONS.]
+
+
+=CHICKEN ASPIC WITH WALNUTS=
+
+Make a clear chicken consomme (see page 100). To one and one half
+cupfuls of the consomme add one half box of Cox's gelatine soaked for
+one half hour in one half cupful of cold water. Ornament the bottom of a
+quart Charlotte mold with a daisy design with leaf, as given page 326.
+Add a layer of jelly one quarter inch thick, and then fill the outside
+of double mold with jelly. (See double molding, page 325.) Fill the
+center with one and a half cupfuls of celery cut rather fine, and one
+half cupful of English walnuts, broken to same size as the celery.
+Mix them with a dressing made of
+
+ 3 tablespoonfuls of melted chicken jelly.
+ 2 tablespoonfuls of oil.
+ 1 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1 teaspoonful of vinegar.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar.
+ 1/4 teaspoonful of pepper.
+
+Cover the top with jelly, so as to completely enclose the celery
+mixture. Turn it onto a flat dish, and place around it a wreath of
+shredded lettuce. This is a very delicious salad, and well repays the
+trouble of preparation.
+
+
+=BIRD'S-NEST SALAD=
+
+Rub a little green coloring paste into cream cheese, giving it a
+delicate color like birds' eggs. Roll it into balls the size of birds'
+eggs, using the back or smooth side of butter-pats.
+
+Arrange on a flat dish some small well-crimped lettuce leaves; group
+them to look like nests, moisten them with French dressing, and place
+five of the cheese balls in each nest of leaves. The cheese balls may be
+varied by flecking them with black, white, or red pepper.
+
+The nests may be made of shredded lettuce if preferred.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII
+
+COLD DESSERTS
+
+
+UTENSILS
+
+Illustration No. 1, Egg-beaters.--No. 1, Dover beater; Nos.
+2 and 3, Wire Whips; No. 4, Daisy beater.
+
+[Illustration: No. 1. EGG WHIPS.
+
+ 1. Dover Beater.
+ 2. Wire Spoon.
+ 3. Wire Whip.
+ 4. Daisy Beater.]
+
+Illustration No. 2, Jelly Molds.--No. 1, Two Charlotte Russe
+molds to use for double molding; No. 2, cylindrical mold for
+Charlottes, Bavarians, cornstarch, etc.; Nos. 3 and 4, ring
+molds.
+
+[Illustration: No. 2. JELLY MOLDS.
+
+ 1. Two Charlotte Molds for double molding.
+ 2. Cylindrical Mold.
+ 3, 4. Ring Molds.]
+
+Illustration No. 3.--No. 1, jelly mold packed in ice ready
+to be filled; No. 2, smaller mold to fit inside for double
+molding.
+
+[Illustration: No. 3. JELLY MOLDS.
+
+ 1. Mold packed in ice for fancy molding.
+ 2. Smaller Mold of same shape to fit into No. 1 for double molding.
+ (See page 325.)]
+
+Illustration No. 4.--Pastry bag and tubes.
+
+[Illustration: No. 4.
+
+PASTRY BAG AND TUBES.]
+
+Illustration No. 5.--Paper for filtering fruit juices.
+
+[Illustration: No. 5.
+
+PAPER FOR FILTERING FRUIT JUICES.]
+
+Illustration No. 6.--No. 1, lace papers to use under cake,
+puddings, jellies, individual creams, bonbons, etc.; also
+for timbales; No. 2, paper boxes and china cups to use for
+individual souffles, biscuits, glace oranges and grapes,
+creamed strawberries, and cherries; also for creamed chicken,
+and fish, salpicon, etc.
+
+[Illustration: No. 6.
+
+LACE PAPERS, PAPER BOXES, AND CHINA BOX.]
+
+The china cups are useful for the latter purposes.
+
+The rectangular paper boxes are easily made. For boxes 3-1/4 x
+1-3/4 inches, cut heavy unruled writing paper into pieces
+5-3/4 x 7-1/4 inches; fold down an edge two inches wide all
+around; fold it back again on itself, giving a border one inch
+broad. Cut the corners at the black line, as shown in diagram,
+and fold the box together. The ends will fit under the folds,
+and hold the box in shape. A little more stability may be
+given the box by taking a stitch at each corner, and letting
+the thread run around the top of the box under the flap.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+WEIGHTS AND MEASURES
+
+ 4 gills = 1 pint.
+ 2 pints = 1 quart.
+ 4 quarts = 1 gallon.
+ 16 ounces = 1 pound.
+
+ 1/2 kitchen cupful = 1 gill.
+ 1 kitchen cupful = 1/2 pint or 2 gills.
+ 4 kitchen cupfuls = 1 quart.
+
+ 2 cupfuls of granulated sugar } = 1 pound.
+ 2-1/2 cupfuls of powdered sugar }
+ 1 heaping tablespoonful of sugar = 1 ounce.
+ 1 heaping tablespoonful of butter } = 2 oz. or 1/4 cupful
+ Butter size of an egg }
+ 1 cupful of butter = 1/2 pound.
+ 4 cupfuls of flour } = 1 pound.
+ 1 heaping quart }
+ 8 round tablespoonfuls of dry material = 1 cupful.
+ 16 tablespoonfuls of liquid = 1 cupful.
+
+
+PROPORTIONS
+
+ 5 to 8 eggs to 1 quart of milk for custards.
+ 3 to 4 eggs to 1 pint of milk for custards.
+ 1 saltspoonful of salt to 1 quart of milk for custards.
+ 1 teaspoonful of vanilla to one quart of milk for custards.
+ 2 ounces of gelatine to 1-3/4 quarts of liquid.
+ 4 heaping tablespoonfuls of cornstarch to 1 quart of
+ milk.
+ 3 heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-powder to 1 quart
+ of flour.
+ 1 even teaspoonful of baking-powder to 1 cupful of
+ flour.
+ 1 teaspoonful of soda to 1 pint of sour milk.
+ 1 teaspoonful of soda to 1/2 pint of molasses.
+
+
+MATERIALS
+
+ [Sidenote: Gelatine.]
+
+Cooper's gelatine costs eight cents a box, holding two
+ounces. Unless perfectly transparent jelly, without
+clarifying, is required, it serves as well as the more
+expensive brands. Cox's gelatine costs fifteen cents a box,
+containing one and one half ounces. It is clear, and needs
+only to be strained to make a transparent jelly.
+
+Isinglass comes in thin sheets, is very clear, and makes a
+brilliant jelly. It costs ten cents an ounce, and there are
+eight and one half sheets of the white, thirteen sheets of
+the red, to an ounce.
+
+For dissolving and proportions, see page 412.
+
+ [Sidenote: Chocolate.]
+
+Unsweetened chocolate costs about thirty-eight cents a
+pound. It is usually divided into squares weighing one ounce
+each. Sweetened chocolate costs about fifty cents per pound,
+and is usually divided into bars, each weighing a little
+less than one and a quarter ounces.
+
+ [Sidenote: To melt chocolate.]
+
+Break the chocolate into pieces, and put them into a dry pan
+on the fire, where the heat is moderate. The chocolate melts
+quickly, and must be carefully watched, or it will burn. Add
+a few spoonfuls of milk to melted chocolate to dissolve it
+before adding it to custards.
+
+ [Sidenote: To whip eggs.]
+
+Do not let a particle of the yolk get into the whites. Add a
+little salt, and they will whip more quickly. The "daisy
+beater," with the handle bent, as shown in illustration, is
+an excellent one for whipping eggs. Hold it flat, and whip
+with an upward motion.
+
+ [Sidenote: Sweetening.]
+
+One tablespoonful of powdered sugar to the white of one egg is
+the right proportion for sweetening meringue. Add but one
+spoonful of sugar at a time, place it on the side of the dish,
+and beat it in gradually from below. This will destroy the
+air-cells less, and leave the egg lighter than sprinkling the
+sugar over the top.
+
+ [Sidenote: To whip cream.]
+
+To whip cream, see page 408.
+
+ [Sidenote: Milk.]
+
+Milk is scalded when the water in the outside double kettle
+boils.
+
+ [Sidenote: Raisins.]
+
+Raisins are more easily stoned if soaked a few minutes. Roll
+raisins and currants in flour before adding them to cake or
+puddings. If added the last thing they will then hold in
+place, and not sink to the bottom.
+
+ [Sidenote: Thickening.]
+
+Use arrowroot to thicken fruit juices. It cooks perfectly clear,
+and does not destroy the color or cloud the transparency of
+the fruit.
+
+ [Sidenote: Flavoring.]
+
+Where essences or wine flavorings are used they are put in the
+last thing, and after the mixture is cooked. For cold desserts
+the mixture should be partly or entirely cold before adding
+them.
+
+ [Sidenote: Molding.]
+
+In molding mixtures be careful that bubbles of air do not
+form on the sides of the molds, as they leave holes and
+destroy the smoothness and beauty of the form. This can be
+prevented by pouring the mixture very slowly into the center
+of the tin.
+
+
+FLAVORS
+
+Vanilla has long held first place in American cooking as
+flavoring, but is no longer highly esteemed, and by many it
+is considered injurious. The essences of fruits, flowers,
+and nuts are preferable. They cost twenty cents per bottle
+of two ounces.
+
+ [Sidenote: Liqueurs.]
+
+Cordials or liqueurs give by far the most delicate and
+pleasant flavor to jellies, creams, and many other desserts.
+They are rich syrups of different flavors, and contain only
+enough spirits to preserve them. Maraschino has the flavor of
+bitter cherry, curacao of orange-peel, noyau of peach-kernels
+or nuts. They cost about $1.50 per bottle, holding nearly a
+quart, and last so long a time that the expense of using them
+is really not greater, if as much, as for vanilla, which costs
+twenty-five cents for two ounces.
+
+ [Sidenote: Wines.]
+
+Kirsch, rum, and sherry are also much used in high-class
+cooking, and, like the liqueurs, need not be excluded from use
+on the score of temperance. The slight flavor they impart to
+cooked dishes does not suggest the drink or create a taste for
+liquors. Wine augments the flavor of salt, and so the latter
+should be used sparingly until after the flavoring is added.
+
+ [Sidenote: Eau de Vie de Dantzic.]
+
+Eau de Vie de Dantzic is made of brandy, is highly flavored,
+and contains gold-leaf. It is used for jellies, making them
+very ornamental. There is seldom enough gold-leaf in it,
+however, and more should be added. A book of gold-leaf costs
+less than fifty cents.
+
+ [Sidenote: Vanilla bean.]
+
+In French cooking the vanilla bean is generally used instead
+of the extract. The bean is split and infused in the liquid.
+Half of one bean is sufficient to flavor one quart, but its
+use is not always economical, as one bean costs twenty cents.
+It is said the Tonquin bean, which is much less expensive,
+very closely resembles the vanilla bean in flavor and can be
+substituted for it.
+
+ [Sidenote: Vanilla powder.]
+
+Vanilla powder is used for ice-creams.
+
+ [Sidenote: Vanilla sugar.]
+
+Vanilla sugar is better than the extract of vanilla for
+meringues, whips, etc., where a liquid is not desirable.
+
+ [Sidenote: Flavoring sugars.]
+
+Flavoring sugars can be made as follows:
+
+ [Sidenote: Vanilla sugar.]
+
+Cut one ounce of dried vanilla beans into pieces and pound
+them in a mortar with one half pound of granulated sugar to
+a fine powder. Pass it through a fine sieve. Pound again the
+coarse pieces that do not go through at first. Keep it in a
+well-corked bottle or preserve jar.
+
+ [Sidenote: Orange sugar.]
+
+Cut from six oranges the thin yellow rind, or zest, taking
+none of the white peel. Let it thoroughly dry, then pound
+it in a mortar with a cupful of granulated sugar and pass
+it through a fine sieve. Keep it in an air-tight jar. One
+tablespoonful of this sugar will flavor a quart of custard.
+The Mandarin orange makes a good flavor.
+
+ [Sidenote: Lemon sugar.]
+
+Another way is to rub cut loaf-sugar against the peel of an
+orange or lemon. As the sugar breaks the oil sacs and absorbs
+the zest, scrape it off, dry, and pass it through a fine
+sieve.
+
+ [Sidenote: Rose sugar.]
+
+Make the same as orange sugar, using two cupfuls of dried
+rose leaves to one of sugar.
+
+ [Sidenote: Orange and lemon syrups.]
+
+Orange and lemon syrups are made by pounding the thin yellow
+rinds with a little tepid water to a pulp, then adding it to
+cold syrup at 32 deg. (see page 513), and letting it infuse for
+an hour or more. Strain and keep in air-tight jars.
+
+ [Sidenote: Pistachio flavor.]
+
+Pistachio flavor can be obtained, when it is not convenient to
+use the nuts, by first flavoring with orange-flower water,
+then adding a very little essence of bitter almond.
+
+A peach leaf, infused with milk when it is scalded for
+custard, will give the flavor of noyau.
+
+ [Sidenote: Caramel.]
+
+Caramel (see page 78). This gives a very delicate and
+agreeable flavor to custards, cream and ices.
+
+ [Sidenote: Preserved orange and lemon peel.]
+
+Candied orange and lemon peel cut into shreds is good in
+custards and cakes. To prepare it, boil the peel in water
+until tender, then in sugar and water until clear; let it
+stand in the syrup several hours, then drain and dry. It
+will keep indefinitely in a closed jar.
+
+
+COLORING
+
+Vegetable coloring pastes, which are entirely harmless, can be
+obtained for twenty-five cents a bottle. The green and the
+red, or carmine, are the colors generally used for icings,
+creams and jellies. The orange is used for orange-cake icing
+and candies. Very little should be used, as the colors should
+be delicate. To guard against using too much it is well to
+dilute it with a little water and add only a few drops at a
+time to the mixture.
+
+The various shades of red to pink are obtained by using more
+or less carmine.
+
+ [Sidenote: Fruit juices.]
+
+Fruit juices impart both color and flavor. They should be
+filtered (see page 415) before using, or they give a muddy
+color.
+
+
+GARNISHING
+
+To decorate cold sweet dishes, use fancy cakes, icings,
+fruits either fresh, candied, compote or glace; jellies
+or blanc-mange molded, or made into a layer and then cut
+into fancy shapes. Spun sugar (see page 515) makes a fine
+decoration, and can be formed into nests, wreaths, balls, or
+simply spread irregularly over a dish.
+
+ [Sidenote: Candied California fruits.]
+
+The candied California fruits are very useful and beautiful
+for both cold and hot desserts. They cost sixty to eighty
+cents a pound, and are not expensive, as but little is used at
+a time, and they keep indefinitely in closed jars. Cherries
+are used whole, the other fruits are cut into pieces.
+
+ [Sidenote: Angelica.]
+
+Angelica is also very effective for decoration. A piece
+costing twenty cents will go a long way. It is cut into
+thin strips and then into diamond-shaped or triangular
+pieces, and used to simulate leaves. The combination of
+cherries and angelica is especially pretty.
+
+ [Sidenote: Currants.]
+
+A mold sprinkled with currants makes a good garnish for hot
+or cold puddings.
+
+ [Sidenote: Raisins and almonds.]
+
+Raisins and almonds also make an effective garnish for
+either hot or cold desserts.
+
+ [Sidenote: Nuts.]
+
+Almonds, pistachio nuts, filberts, English walnuts and
+chestnuts are employed in many ways, as see receipts.
+
+ [Sidenote: Fresh flowers.]
+
+Fresh flowers and green leaves may be used with good effect
+on many cold dishes. Pink roses lend themselves particularly
+to this purpose. Violets, pansies, geraniums, sweet-peas and
+others are often appropriate. Nasturtiums with salad are
+good for both decoration and flavor. (See opposite pages
+328, 410, 492.)
+
+ [Sidenote: Colored sugars.]
+
+Colored sugars and small candies called "hundreds and
+thousands" are used to sprinkle over icings, meringues,
+creams and whips. To color sugar sift coarse granulated
+sugar, spread the coarse grains on stiff paper, and drop on
+it a few drops of coloring fluid. Roll it under the hand
+until evenly tinted, then leave to dry on the paper. Keep in
+corked bottles.
+
+ [Sidenote: Sauces.]
+
+Sauces for cold sweet dishes are custards, whipped cream,
+canned or preserved fruit, fresh fruit juices, or purees. The
+purees are crushed fruit sweetened to taste (with syrup at 30 deg.
+if convenient). They are improved with a little flavoring of
+Maraschino, kirsch, curacao, or with orange or lemon juice.
+Peach is improved in appearance if slightly colored with
+carmine.
+
+ [Sidenote: Canned fruits.]
+
+Canned fruits are now very inexpensive, and many of them are
+fresh in taste as well as appearance. They are useful in a
+variety of desserts, and often suit the purpose as well as
+fresh fruits.
+
+
+THE STORE-CLOSET
+
+ [Sidenote: Garnishing and flavoring.]
+
+The various articles needed for garnishing, flavoring, etc.,
+should be kept in glass preserve jars, and labeled. The
+store-closet, once furnished with the requisites for fancy
+dishes, will tempt the ordinary cook to a higher class of
+work, and contribute to the desirable end of presenting
+dishes that please both sight and taste, and so raise the
+standard of every-day cooking. It is very easy to garnish a
+dish or decorate a mold, and the habit once formed will lead
+to more ambitious attempts.
+
+
+=CUSTARDS=
+
+
+BOILED CUSTARD NO. 1
+
+ 2 cupfuls, or one pint, of milk.
+ Yolks of 3 eggs.
+ 1/2 saltspoonful of salt.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of vanilla.
+ 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar.
+
+Boiled custard is the basis of many puddings, ice-creams and sauces. It
+requires care to get it just right, for the cooking must be arrested at
+the right point; a moment too soon leaves it too thin, a moment too long
+curdles and spoils it. It should have the consistency of thick cream,
+and be perfectly smooth. It is safer to make it in a double boiler.
+Bring the milk to the scalding-point without boiling; then take from the
+fire, and pour it slowly into the eggs and sugar, which have been beaten
+together to a cream; stir all the time; replace on the fire, and stir
+until the custard coats the spoon, or a smooth creamy consistency is
+attained; then immediately strain it into a cold dish, and add the
+flavoring. If vanilla bean, peach leaves, or lemon zest are used for
+flavoring, they can be boiled with the milk. If by accident the custard
+begins to grain, arrest the cooking at once by putting the saucepan in
+cold water; add a little cold milk, and beat it vigorously with a Dover
+beater. Five egg yolks to a quart of milk will make a good boiled
+custard, but six or eight make it richer. It is smoother when the yolks
+only are used, yet the whole egg makes a good custard, and in the
+emergency of not having enough eggs at hand a little corn-starch may be
+used.
+
+Boiled custard may be flavored with vanilla, almond, rose, maraschino,
+noyau, caramel, coffee, chopped almonds, grated cocoanut, or pounded
+macaroons. The cocoanut makes a delicious custard, but must be rich with
+eggs and stiff enough to keep the cocoanut from settling to the bottom.
+
+
+BOILED CUSTARD NO. 2.
+
+Make a boiled custard (see preceding receipt), using a pint of milk,
+three egg yolks, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, dash of salt, and any
+flavoring preferred. Let it get entirely cold; just before serving mix
+in lightly the whites of three eggs beaten to a stiff froth. This will
+give a sponge-like texture, and make a very delicate custard. As the
+whites are not cooked it will not keep long after they are added.
+Ornament the top with bits of jelly on small pieces of the whipped egg.
+
+
+=FLOATING ISLAND=
+
+Whip the whites of two or three eggs very stiff; add a tablespoonful of
+powdered sugar (see page 389) to each egg; flavor with essence of
+almond, and add a few chopped almonds. Turn it into an oiled
+pudding-mold which has a fancy top; cover and place it in a saucepan of
+boiling water to poach for twenty minutes. Leave enough room in the mold
+for the meringue to swell. Let it stand in the mold until cold; it will
+contract and leave the sides. When ready to serve, unmold the meringue
+and place it on boiled custard served in a glass dish.
+
+[Illustration: FLOATING ISLAND. (SEE PAGE 395.)]
+
+
+=CHOCOLATE CUSTARD=
+
+Make a boiled custard No. 1, using the whites as well as the yolks of
+the eggs; add one bar of melted chocolate (see page 388). Mix thoroughly
+and strain into cups.
+
+
+=BAKED CUSTARD=
+
+Use the same proportions as for boiled custard. Beat the eggs, sugar,
+and salt together to a cream; stir in the scalded milk; turn into a
+pudding-dish or into cups; grate a little nutmeg over the top; stand it
+in a pan of hot water, and bake in a moderate oven until firm in the
+center. Test by running a knife into the custard. If it comes out clean,
+it is done; if milky, it needs longer cooking; but it must be carefully
+watched, for it will separate if cooked too long.
+
+A custard, to be smooth and solid, must be baked very slowly. The holes
+often seen in baked custard are caused by escaping bubbles of steam,
+which rise through the mixture when the heat reaches the boiling-point.
+
+
+=CARAMEL CUSTARD=
+
+Put a cupful of granulated sugar into a small saucepan with a
+tablespoonful of water; stir until melted; then let it cook until a
+light brown color (see caramel, page 78). Turn one half the caramel into
+a well-buttered mold which has straight sides and flat top, and let it
+get cold. Into the rest of the caramel turn a half cupful of hot water,
+and let it stand on the side of the range until the caramel is
+dissolved. This is for the sauce.
+
+Stir four yolks and two whole eggs, with three tablespoonfuls of sugar,
+and one half saltspoonful of salt, to a cream, but do not let it froth;
+add a pint of scalded milk and a half teaspoonful of vanilla. Strain
+this into the mold onto the cold hardened caramel. Place the mold in a
+pan of hot water, and bake in a very moderate oven until firm in the
+center; test by running in a knife (see baked custard), and watch it
+carefully. The water in the pan must not boil, and the oven should be so
+slow that it will take at least an hour to cook the custard. It will
+then be very firm and smooth. Unmold the custard when ready to serve. It
+will have a glaze of caramel over the top, and some will run down the
+sides. Serve the caramel sauce in another dish. This dish is
+recommended.
+
+
+=CHOCOLATE CREAM CUSTARD=
+
+Use the same proportions as for caramel custard. Add one and one half
+ounces of melted chocolate (see page 388). Strain it into a buttered
+mold, and bake slowly the same as caramel custard. Unmold when cold, and
+serve with or without whipped cream.
+
+Both the caramel and the chocolate cream custards may be baked in
+individual timbale-molds, if preferred.
+
+
+=RENNET CUSTARD=
+
+Sweeten and flavor the milk; heat it until lukewarm; then turn it into
+the glass dish in which it is to be served. Add to each quart of milk a
+tablespoonful of liquid rennet (which comes prepared for custards), and
+mix it thoroughly. Let it stand where it will remain lukewarm until a
+firm curd is formed; then remove carefully to a cold place. If jarred
+the whey is likely to separate. Brandy or rum make the best flavoring
+for this custard, but any flavoring may be used. It may be served
+without sauce, but a whipped cream, colored pink, improves it, and also
+takes away the suggestion of soured milk which curds give.
+
+
+=CORN-STARCH PUDDINGS=
+
+
+(NO. 1.) A PLAIN CORN-STARCH PUDDING
+
+ 1 pint of milk.
+ 2 heaping tablespoonfuls
+ of corn-starch.
+ 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar.
+ Whites of 3 eggs.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of vanilla.
+
+Beat the eggs to a stiff froth. Dissolve the corn-starch in a little of
+the cold milk. Stir the sugar into the rest of the milk, and place it on
+the fire. When it begins to boil, add the dissolved corn-starch. Stir
+constantly for a few moments. When it becomes well thickened, stir in
+the beaten whites of the eggs, and let it remain a little longer to cook
+the eggs. Remove from the fire; flavor with vanilla, and turn it into a
+mold.[397-*]
+
+This pudding is quickly and easily made. It gives about a quart of
+pudding, or enough to serve six to eight persons. It may or may not be
+served with a custard made of the yolks of the eggs, but it requires a
+good sauce and flavoring, or it is rather tasteless. Several variations
+of this receipt are given below.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[397-*] Corn-starch has a raw taste unless it is thoroughly cooked.
+After the mixture has thickened it can be left to cook in a double
+boiler for half an hour without changing its consistency, and this
+length of time for cooking is essential to its flavor. A mold of corn
+starch should not be very firm, but have a trembling jelly-like
+consistency. The eggs may be omitted from above receipt if desired, but
+the pudding will not be as delicate.--M. R.
+
+
+(NO. 2.) CORN-STARCH WITH CANNED FRUIT
+
+When the corn-starch is sufficiently set to hold the fruit in place,
+stir into it lightly one half can of well-drained fruit (cherries,
+raspberries, strawberries, or any other fruit), and turn it into a mold
+to harden. Serve the juice of the fruit with it as a sauce.
+
+[Illustration: CORNSTARCH PUDDING MOLDED IN RING MOLD WITH WHITE
+CALIFORNIA CANNED CHERRIES AND CENTER FILLED WITH CHERRIES.]
+
+
+(NO. 3.) COCOANUT PUDDING
+
+When the corn-starch is removed from the fire, and partly cooled, add
+half a cocoanut grated. Mix it well together and turn into a mold; serve
+with a custard or, better, with whipped cream. Sprinkle sugar over the
+half of the grated cocoanut not used, and spread it on a sieve to dry.
+It will keep for some time when dried.
+
+
+(NO. 4.) CHOCOLATE PUDDING
+
+When the corn-starch is taken from the fire and flavored, turn one third
+of it into a saucepan, and mix with it one and a half ounces or squares
+of chocolate melted, a tablespoonful of sugar if unsweetened chocolate
+is used, and a half cupful of stoned raisins. Let it cook one minute to
+set the chocolate. Turn into a plain cylindrical mold one half of the
+white corn-starch. Make it a smooth, even layer, keeping the edges
+clean; then add the chocolate; smooth it in the same way; then add the
+rest of the white corn-starch, making three even layers, alternating in
+color; after each layer is in wipe the sides of the mold so no speck of
+one color will deface the other. (See illustration.)
+
+[Illustration: CORNSTARCH PUDDING IN LAYERS. (SEE PAGE 398.)]
+
+[Illustration: CORNSTARCH PUDDING WITH PANSIES MOLDED IN A LAYER OF
+JELLY ON TOP--GARNISHED WITH PANSIES.]
+
+
+=CORN-STARCH CHOCOLATES=
+
+(VERY SIMPLE, AND QUICKLY MADE)
+
+Scald a pint of milk and four tablespoonfuls of sugar; add an ounce of
+chocolate shaved thin, so it will dissolve quickly; then add two
+heaping tablespoonfuls of corn-starch which has been diluted with a
+little of the cold milk. Stir over the fire until the mixture is
+thickened, add a half teaspoonful of vanilla, and turn it into small
+cups to cool and harden. Unmold the forms when ready to serve, and use
+sweetened milk for a sauce. By using a little less corn-starch, this
+mixture will be a smooth, thick custard, and may be served in the cups.
+
+
+=BLANC-MANGE, OR WHITE JELLY=
+
+ 1/2 box, or 1 ounce, of gelatine.
+ 3-1/2 cupfuls of milk.
+ 3/4 cupful of sugar.
+ 1 teaspoonful of vanilla, or other flavor.
+
+Scald three cupfuls of milk with the sugar; then add and dissolve in it
+the gelatine, which has soaked for one half hour in a half cupful of
+milk. Remove from the fire, add the flavoring, and strain into a mold.
+Blanc-mange may be flavored with any of the liqueurs, and it may have
+incorporated with it, when stiffened enough to hold them suspended,
+chopped nuts or fruits, or raisins, currants, and citron.
+
+
+=PLUM PUDDING JELLY=
+
+ 1/2 box, or 1 ounce, of gelatine soaked 1/2 hour in 1 cupful of cold
+ water.
+ 1-1/2 ounces of chocolate.
+ 1 cupful of sugar.
+ 1 pint of milk.
+ 1 cupful of raisins stoned.
+ 1/2 cupful of currants.
+ 1/4 cupful of sliced citron.
+
+Dissolve the sugar in the milk, and put it in a double boiler to scald.
+Melt the chocolate on a dry pan; then add a few spoonfuls of the milk to
+make it smooth, and add it to the scalded milk. Remove from the fire,
+and add the soaked gelatine. Stir until the gelatine is dissolved; then
+strain it into a bowl. When it begins to set, or is firm enough to hold
+the fruit in place, stir in the fruit, which must have stood in warm
+water a little while to soften. Flavor with one half teaspoonful of
+vanilla, or a few drops of lemon. Turn it into a mold to harden. Serve
+with it whipped cream, or a sauce made of the whipped white of one egg,
+one tablespoonful of powdered sugar, a cupful of milk, and a few drops
+of vanilla.
+
+
+
+BAVARIAN CREAMS
+
+
+ [Sidenote: General remarks about.]
+
+BAVARIAN CREAMS are very wholesome, light, and delicious
+desserts. They are easily made, and are inexpensive, as one
+pint of cream is sufficient to make a quart and a half of
+bavarian. They are subject to so many variations that they
+may be often presented without seeming to be the same dish.
+Bavarian creams may be used for Charlotte Russe.
+
+GENERAL RULES.--Have the cream cold; then whipped, and
+drained (see whipping cream), and do not add the whipped
+cream to the gelatine mixture until the latter is beginning
+to set.
+
+ [Sidenote: How to make.]
+
+Have the gelatine soaked in cold water one hour. It will
+then quickly dissolve in the hot custard.
+
+Do not boil the gelatine.
+
+
+=PLAIN BAVARIAN CREAM=
+
+ 1 pint of cream whipped.
+ 1 pint of cream or milk.
+ 1/2 cupful of sugar.
+ Yolks of 4 eggs.
+ 1/2 saltspoonful of salt.
+ 1/2 box, or 1 ounce, of gelatine soaked in one half cupful of water.
+ 1/2 vanilla bean, or 1 teaspoonful of vanilla extract.
+
+Whip one pint of cream, and stand it aside to drain. Scald one pint of
+cream or milk with the vanilla bean split in two; remove it from the
+fire, and turn it slowly, stirring all the time, on the yolks, which
+have been beaten with the sugar and salt to a cream. Return it to the
+fire a moment to set the egg, but take it off the moment it begins to
+thicken. Add the soaked gelatine and flavoring (if the bean has not been
+used). Stir until the gelatine has dissolved, then pass it through a
+sieve. When it is cold, and beginning to set, whip it a few minutes
+with a Dover beater and then mix in lightly the whipped cream, and turn
+it into a mold to harden. Avoid using any of the cream which has
+returned to liquid. This cream should have a spongy texture.
+
+
+=CHOCOLATE BAVARIAN=
+
+Use the receipt given above for plain Bavarian. Melt two ounces of
+chocolate, and dissolve it in a little milk; add this to the custard
+mixture before the gelatine.
+
+
+=ITALIAN CREAM, OR BAVARIAN WITHOUT CREAM=
+
+Make a custard of one pint of milk, the yolks of three eggs, and three
+tablespoonfuls of sugar; add a dash of salt. When it is cooked enough to
+coat the spoon, add an ounce of gelatine, which has soaked for half an
+hour in some of the cold milk. As soon as the gelatine is dissolved,
+remove from the fire, and when it begins to stiffen fold in carefully
+the whites of three eggs whipped to a stiff froth, and turn it into a
+mold to set.
+
+
+=FRUIT BAVARIAN=
+
+Mash and press through a colander any fresh or canned fruit. If berries
+are used, press them through a sieve to extract the seeds. Sweeten to
+taste, and flavor with a little orange and lemon-juice, curacao, or
+maraschino. To a pint of fruit juice or pulp add a half box or one ounce
+of gelatine, which has soaked an hour in one half cupful of cold water,
+and then been dissolved in one half cupful of hot water. Stir the fruit
+and gelatine on ice until it begins to set, otherwise the fruit will
+settle to the bottom. Then stir in lightly a pint of cream whipped and
+well-drained, and turn it into a mold to harden. Strawberries,
+raspberries, pineapple, peaches, and apricots are the fruits generally
+used. With fruits it is better to use a porcelain mold if possible, as
+tin discolors. If a tin one is used, coat it with jelly as directed on
+page 323, using a little of the dissolved gelatine (sweetened and
+flavored) prepared for the fruit.
+
+
+=RICE BAVARIAN, OR RIZ A L'IMPERATRICE=
+
+Put into a double boiler one and one half pints of milk and a few thin
+cuts of lemon-zest; when it boils stir in one half cupful of well-washed
+rice and a saltspoonful of salt. Cook until the rice is perfectly
+tender. The milk should be nearly boiled away, leaving the rice very
+moist. Then add or mix in carefully a half cupful of sugar and a quarter
+of a box, or one half ounce, of gelatine, which has soaked in half a
+cupful of cold water for one hour, and then melted by placing the cup
+containing it in hot water for a few minutes. When the mixture is partly
+cold add three tablespoonfuls each of maraschino and of sherry, or of
+sherry alone, or of any other flavoring. When it is beginning to set,
+stir in lightly one half pint or more of well-whipped cream, and turn it
+into a mold. This is a very white dish, and is a delicious dessert. It
+may be served alone, or with orange jelly cut into croutons, or with
+orange compote (see page 536), or with plain or whipped cream.
+
+
+=BAVARIAN PANACHEE=
+
+Make a plain Bavarian; flavor with vanilla; divide it into three parts
+before the cream is added. Into one third stir one ounce of melted
+chocolate. Into another third mix two tablespoonfuls of pistachio nuts
+chopped fine, and color it green (see page 392). Arrange the three parts
+in layers in a mold, beginning with the white, and stir into each one,
+after it has begun to set, and just before putting it into the mold, a
+third of the whipped cream. By keeping it in a warm place the Bavarian
+will not set before it is wanted, and it can then be made to set quickly
+by placing it on ice.
+
+
+=BAVARIAN EN SURPRISE=
+
+Line a mold with chocolate Bavarian one inch thick. Fill the center with
+vanilla Bavarian mixed with chopped nuts, or line the mold with vanilla
+Bavarian, and fill with fruit Bavarian (see double molding, page 325).
+
+
+=DIPLOMATIC PUDDING=
+
+This is molded in a double mold, and made of very clear lemon, orange,
+or wine jelly for the outside, and a Bavarian cream for the inside. With
+candied fruits make a design on the bottom of the larger mold (see
+molding, page 325); fix it with a very little jelly, then add enough
+more to make a half or three quarter inch layer of jelly. When it is set
+put in the center mold. Make a layer of fruit and a layer of jelly
+alternately until the outside space is filled, using fruits of different
+colors for the different layers or stripes. When it is set, remove the
+small mold, and fill the space with Bavarian, using a flavor that goes
+well with the one used in the jelly--maraschino with orange; sherry,
+noyau, or almond with lemon.
+
+
+=DIPLOMATIC BAVARIAN=
+
+Take six lady-fingers; open, and spread them with apricot, or with peach
+jam. Place them together again like a sandwich. Moisten them with
+maraschino, and cut them in one inch lengths. Boil until softened a half
+cupful of stoned raisins and a half cupful of currants; drain them, and
+moisten them with maraschino. Make a plain Bavarian flavored with
+kirsch. When it is beginning to set and ready to go into the mold, mix
+it lightly with the cake and fruit, and turn into a mold to harden.
+
+
+=CHARLOTTE RUSSE=
+
+ [Sidenote: Forms.]
+
+Charlotte Russe is simply a cream mixture, molded, with cake
+on the outside. It is easily made and always liked. Charlotte
+pans are oval, but any plain, round mold, or a kitchen basin
+with sides not too slanting, or individual molds may be used.
+
+ [Sidenote: General directions.]
+
+First place on the bottom of the pan an oiled paper which is
+cut to fit it neatly; then arrange lady-fingers evenly around
+the sides, or instead of lady-fingers use strips of layer
+sponge cake, No. 1 (page 466), or of Genoese (page 467). Cut
+the strips one or one and a half inches wide, and fit them
+closely together. Fill the center with any of the mixtures
+given below, and let it stand an hour or more to harden.
+
+[Illustration: CHARLOTTE RUSSE MADE WITH LADY FINGERS.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Ornamentation.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Cake in two colors.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Icing in two colors.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Decorating the top.]
+
+A sheet of cake cut to fit the top may, or may not, be used.
+If cake is used it is better to place it on the Charlotte
+after it is unmolded and the paper removed. The layer cake
+should be one quarter or three eighths of an inch thick only.
+Charlottes can be ornamented in many ways, and made very
+elaborate if desired. A simple decoration is obtained by
+having the strips of cake in two colors, alternating the
+upper, or browned, with the under, or white, side of the cake.
+For the top, cut a piece of cake to the right shape. Then cut
+it transversely, making even, triangular pieces, with the
+width at the base the same as the side strips. Turn over each
+alternate piece to give the two colors (see illustration); or,
+ice the strips and the top piece of cake with royal icing (see
+illustration) in two colors. Let the icing harden before
+placing it in the mold. Have the sides, as well as the bottom,
+of the mold lined with paper. Arrange the strips in the mold
+with the colors alternating. Instead of using cake for the
+top, some of the filling mixture can be put into a pastry-bag,
+and pressed through a tube over the top in fancy forms.
+Meringue or whipped cream may also be used for decorating the
+top.
+
+[Illustration: CHARLOTTE RUSSE WITH CAKE ARRANGED IN STRIPS OF TWO
+COLORS. (SEE PAGE 404.)]
+
+[Illustration: CHARLOTTE RUSSE WITH STRIPS OF CAKE ICED IN TWO COLORS.
+(SEE PAGE 404.)]
+
+[Illustration: CHARLOTTE RUSSE MADE OF ONE LAYER OF CAKE--TOP DECORATED
+WITH DOTS OF ICING.]
+
+
+=CHARLOTTE RUSSE FILLING No. 1=
+
+Whip a pint of cream to a stiff froth. Soak a half ounce of gelatine in
+three tablespoonfuls of cold water for half an hour; then dissolve it
+with two tablespoonfuls of boiling water. Add to the whipped cream a
+tablespoonful of powdered sugar (or a little more if liqueurs are not
+used for flavoring), and two dessertspoonfuls of noyau or other liqueur,
+or a teaspoonful of vanilla. Then turn in slowly the dissolved gelatine,
+beating all the time. When it begins to stiffen turn it into a mold
+which is lined with cake.
+
+
+=CHARLOTTE RUSSE FILLING No. 2=
+
+Beat well together two yolks of eggs and a half tablespoonful of sugar.
+Scald a half cupful of milk, and stir it into the beaten yolks; add a
+dash of salt, and return it to the double boiler. Stir it over the fire
+until it coats the spoon, thus making a plain boiled custard. Add to the
+hot custard a level tablespoonful of Cooper's gelatine, which has soaked
+for half an hour in four tablespoonfuls of cold water; stir until the
+gelatine is dissolved, then strain it into a bowl, add two
+tablespoonfuls of sherry (or use any flavoring desired) and the whipped
+whites of two eggs; beat until it just begins to thicken, then mix in
+lightly a pint of cream whipped to a stiff froth, and turn into the
+mold.
+
+
+=CHARLOTTE RUSSE FILLING No. 3 (Fruit)=
+
+Soak an ounce of gelatine in a half cupful of cold water for half an
+hour. Make a syrup of one cupful of sugar, a half cupful of lemon-juice,
+and two cupfuls of orange-juice. When it has become a light syrup, turn
+it slowly onto the beaten yolks of four eggs, beating all the time.
+Return it to the double boiler, and cook until it is a little thickened,
+then add the gelatine. When the gelatine is dissolved, strain and beat
+until it is cold; add the whites of four eggs, and beat until it
+stiffens, then turn it into the mold. A pint of whipped cream may be
+used instead of the whipped whites of the eggs if convenient. In place
+of orange and lemon-juice, any fruit may be used. Stew the fruit until
+tender, add enough sugar to sweeten, and cook it to a light syrup; then
+press the fruit through a sieve, and to two and a half cupfuls of fruit
+syrup or of fruit pulp add the four eggs, and proceed as directed for
+the orange filling.
+
+
+=CHARLOTTE RUSSE FILLING, No. 4=
+
+Use any of the plain or fruit Bavarian creams.
+
+
+=CHARLOTTE RUSSE FILLING No. 5=
+
+Use whipped jelly plain, or whipped jelly with fruits, called macedoine
+of fruits (see page 417).
+
+
+=TIMBALE OF BRIOCHE=
+
+Bake a brioche (see page 359) in a cylindrical mold. Cut a straight
+slice off the top about one inch thick; replace the cake in the tin, and
+carefully pick out the center of the loaf, leaving a thickness of one
+inch of the brioche. Spread the inside with a layer of jam. Put in a
+saucepan the liquor from a can of apricots or peaches. Stir into it two
+tablespoonfuls of arrowroot, moistened with a little water, and stir
+over the fire until the juice is thickened and clear. Fill the center of
+the brioche with the drained fruit, mixed with blanched almonds and
+raisins; pour over it the thickened syrup, replace the cover. When set
+turn it onto a dish; spread the outside with a little jam, and sprinkle
+with chopped blanched almonds. This makes a very simple and wholesome
+sweet.
+
+
+=CHARLOTTE PRINCESSE de GALLES=
+
+Take eight Carlsbad wafers of oblong shape. Stand them on end around the
+outside of a cylindrical mold, and carefully stick the edges together
+with sugar cooked to the crack, or with royal icing (see page 483). Make
+the octagon as regular as possible. When the edges are well set place it
+on a foundation either of puff-paste or of layer cake cut to the shape
+of the form. Ornament it with dots of royal icing pressed through a
+pastry-bag and tube onto the edges. Just before serving fill the center
+with whipped cream, or with czarina cream, or with whipped jelly and
+fruits, or whipped jelly and meringue, or with any of the mousses. The
+wafers quickly loose their crispness, so the form must not be filled
+until the moment of serving.
+
+A filling may also be made for this Charlotte of any of the Charlotte
+Russe mixtures, molding them in a form smaller than the form of wafers,
+and when unmolded the ornamental form placed over it, and whipped cream
+piled on top. In this way the wafers will not be softened.
+
+[Illustration: CHARLOTTE PRINCESSE DE GALLES. (SEE PAGE 406.)]
+
+[Illustration: CHARLOTTE PRINCESSE DE GALLES MADE OF ROLLED GAUFFRES.
+(SEE PAGE 406.)]
+
+
+=STRAWBERRY CHARLOTTE=
+
+Cut large firm strawberries in two lengthwise; dip them in liquid
+gelatine, and line a plain mold, placing the flat side against the
+mold. If the mold is on ice the jelly will harden at once, and hold the
+berries in place. Fill the center with Charlotte filling No. 1, or with
+Bavarian cream, or with pain de fraises.
+
+
+=GATEAU ST. HONORE=
+
+This is a combination of puff-paste, cream cakes, glace fruits, and
+whipped cream. It is said to be the triumph of the chef's art, yet one
+need not fear to undertake it when one has learned to make good pastry
+and to boil sugar. It is an ornamental, delicious dessert, and one that
+can be presented on the most formal occasions. First: Roll thin a very
+short or a puff-paste, so when baked it will be one quarter of an inch
+thick only. Cut it the size of a layer-cake tin; place it on a dampened
+baking-tin, and prick it with a fork in several places. Second: make a
+cream-cake batter (see page 474); put the batter in a pastry-bag with
+half inch tube, and press out onto and around the edge of the paste a
+ring of the batter. With the rest of the batter make a number of small
+cakes (two dozen), forming them with the tube into balls one half inch
+in diameter. Brush the ring and balls with egg, and bake in a quick
+oven; then fill them with St. Honore cream (see below). Third: boil a
+cupful of sugar to the crack, and glace some orange sections and some
+white grapes (see glace fruits, page 516). Fourth: with some of the
+sugar used for the fruits stick the small cream cakes onto the ring,
+making an even border; on top of each cake stick a grape, and between
+them a section of orange. Place a candied cherry on each piece of
+orange, and one below it, if there is room. Other candied fruits and
+angelica may be used also, if desired, and arranged in any way to suit
+the fancy. Fifth: make a St. Honore cream as follows: scald one cupful
+of milk in a double boiler; turn it slowly onto the yolks of six eggs,
+which have been well beaten with one and one half tablespoonfuls of
+corn-starch and a cupful of powdered sugar. Return to the fire until it
+begins to thicken or coats the spoon, then remove, and flavor with one
+teaspoonful each of vanilla and noyau, and stir in lightly the whites of
+eight eggs beaten very stiff. Cook it one minute to set the whites,
+beating all the time. When cold, turn it into the gateau. Whipped cream
+may or may not be piled on top of the St. Honore cream.
+
+[Illustration: GATEAU ST. HONORE. (SEE PAGE 407.)]
+
+
+=CROQUENBOUCHE OF MACAROONS=
+
+Oil the outside of a dome-shaped mold. Beginning at the bottom, cover it
+with macaroons, sticking the edges of the macaroons together with sugar
+boiled to the crack, or with royal icing (see page 483). Just before
+serving turn it off the mold, and place it over a form of plain or fruit
+Bavarian cream, which has been hardened in a smaller mold of the same
+shape. There should be an inch or more of space between the two, the
+outer one covering the other like a cage.
+
+A croquenbouche can also be made of little cakes cut from a layer cake
+with a small biscuit-cutter, and iced in two colors with royal icing, or
+with glace oranges, or with chestnuts. The latter are difficult to make,
+but are very good with ice-creams.
+
+
+
+WHIPPED CREAM
+
+
+ [Sidenote: General directions.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Temperature.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Texture.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Time for adding.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Draining.]
+
+One half pint of double or very rich cream costs ten cents,
+and may be diluted one half, giving a pint of cream as called
+for in the receipts. Cream should be placed on the ice for
+several hours before it is whipped. It is essential to have it
+very cold, otherwise it will not whip well; and also, if rich
+cream, it will form particles of butter. If not lower than 60 deg.
+it will all go to butter. Place the bowl containing the cream
+in a larger bowl containing cracked ice, and with a cream
+churn, Dover beater, or wire whip, whichever is convenient,
+whip it to a stiff froth; continue to whip until it all
+becomes inflated. If the cream is cold it will take but a few
+minutes. This gives a firm, fine-grained cream, which is used
+for Bavarians, mousses, ice-creams, etc. When a lighter and
+more frothy cream, called syllabub, is wanted for whips and
+sauces, dilute the cream more, and remove the froth from the
+top of the cream as it rises while being whipped, and place it
+on a fine sieve over a bowl to drain. That which drips through
+the sieve replace in the whipping-bowl to be again beaten. The
+flavoring and sweetening are added after it is whipped for the
+first method; but it is better to add it before for the
+latter, as mixing breaks down the froth. Whipped cream, like
+beaten whites of eggs, added to gelatine or custard mixtures,
+gives them a sponge-like texture. It should be drained, and
+added only when the mixtures are cold and ready to be molded
+or frozen. It is then cut in lightly, not stirred. Some
+judgment must be used about diluting the cream, and it must
+stand several hours on ice to insure success.
+
+Cream whipped by the first method is the one recommended for
+all purposes. When it is added to other things, any liquid
+cream that may have dripped to the bottom of the bowl should
+not be put in.
+
+
+DESSERTS OF WHIPPED CREAM
+
+Preserves and jams served with whipped cream make an
+excellent dessert.
+
+
+=WHIPS=
+
+Flavor a pint of cream with a dessertspoonful of maraschino, kirsch, or
+rum, or with a teaspoonful of essence of vanilla, rose, or almonds, or
+flavor it with black coffee. Color it pink, or green, or leave it white.
+Sweeten with three scant tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. Whip it to a
+stiff froth and drain. Let it stand on ice until ready to use; then with
+a spoon pile it high on a glass dish. If the cream is white sprinkle it
+with colored pink and green sugar mixed (see page 393). Or, skim off the
+foam which first rises, placing several spoonfuls of it on a sieve to
+drain. Color the rest a delicate pink, and whip it until it all becomes
+firm and of fine grain. Turn this into a glass dish, and with a spoon
+place the white froth upon it.
+
+
+=CZARINA CREAM=
+
+ 1 pint of cream.
+ 1/4 box of gelatine.
+ 1/3 cupful of sugar.
+ 1/4 cupful of blanched almonds.
+ 1 teaspoonful of vanilla.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of rosewater.
+ 4 tablespoonfuls of sherry.
+
+Put a bowl containing the cream on ice; whip it to a stiff froth; add
+slowly the sugar, then the gelatine (which has first been soaked an hour
+in one quarter cupful of cold water, and then dissolved by placing the
+cup in hot water), beating all the time. Add the vanilla and rosewater,
+and enough green coloring (see page 392) to give it a delicate color.
+When it begins to stiffen add the sherry, and lastly the almonds chopped
+fine. When the cream is quite firm put it in round paper boxes, and
+sprinkle over the top a little colored sugar, or chopped pistachio nuts
+and granulated sugar mixed. Let it stand an hour or more on ice before
+serving.
+
+
+=CHESTNUT PUREE WITH CREAM=
+
+Boil a pound of shelled English chestnuts a few minutes; then drain, and
+remove the skins. Boil them again until tender; drain, and mash them
+through a puree sieve; sweeten, flavor with vanilla, and moisten them
+with a little cream. Put the puree in a saucepan, and stir over a slow
+heat until dry; then press it through a colander or potato-press onto
+the dish in which it is to be served. Form it into a circle, using care
+not to destroy the light and vermicelli-like form the colander has given
+it. Serve whipped cream in the center of the ring.
+
+
+=CHESTNUTS WITH CREAM=
+
+After removing the shells and skins from some English chestnuts, boil
+them until tender in water, then in sugar and water, until clear. Let
+them lie in the syrup until cold; then drain, and pile them on a dish.
+Boil the syrup down to a thick consistency, and pour it over the nuts.
+Serve cold with whipped cream.
+
+
+
+USES FOR STALE CAKE
+
+
+=PINE CONES=
+
+With a biscuit-cutter, cut slices of stale cake or bread into circles.
+Moisten them with sherry, maraschino, or merely with a little hot water.
+Chop some fresh or canned pineapple into small pieces, and pile it on
+the cakes. With a knife press each one into the form of a cone or small
+pyramid. Place them in a shallow tin close together, but not touching.
+Put the pineapple liquor into a saucepan, and thicken it with arrowroot
+(which has first been wet with water), using a teaspoonful to a cupful
+of liquor. Cook until the arrowroot becomes clear and begins to stiffen;
+then pour it slowly over the cones. It will cover them with a jelly.
+When cold, trim them carefully so the base of each one will be round,
+and lift them carefully from the tin.
+
+
+=CAKE WITH CUSTARD=
+
+Spread slices of stale cake or cottage pudding with jam; place them in a
+glass dish, and cover with boiled custard; or first moisten the cake
+with sherry, then cover with custard.
+
+
+=TRIFLE (Esther)=
+
+Slice in two six square sponge cakes (layer cake cut in squares will
+do), spread with jam or jelly (a tart jelly is best), and put them
+together like sandwiches. Moisten them in a mixture of one third brandy
+and two thirds sherry. Put them in a glass dish, and pour over them a
+custard made of one pint of milk, three eggs, and three tablespoonfuls
+of sugar; put together as directed for boiled custard No. 2 (page 395).
+Blanch and cut in fine strips one half cupful of almonds, and stick them
+into the top cakes standing upright. Cover all with a half pint of
+whipped cream, and sprinkle the top with hundreds and thousands (see
+page 393), or with colored sugar (see page 393).
+
+
+=BANANA TRIFLE (Martha)=
+
+ 1/2 cupful of milk.
+ 1/2 cupful of water.
+ 1 heaping teaspoonful of cornstarch.
+ 1 even teaspoonful of sugar.
+ 1/2 saltspoonful of salt.
+ 2 bananas.
+ 6 lady-fingers.
+ 1/2 pint of cream, or the whipped white of one egg.
+
+Slice the bananas, and lay them in a glass dish in alternate layers with
+four lady-fingers split in two. Put the milk and water in a saucepan;
+add the sugar, salt, and the corn-starch diluted in a little cold water.
+When it has thickened pour it over the bananas, and let it stand until
+cold and ready to serve; then cover the top with whipped cream, or if
+that is not convenient use the whipped white of one egg sweetened with
+one tablespoonful of sugar. Split and break in two the remaining
+lady-fingers, and place them upright around the edge.
+
+
+
+SWEET JELLIES
+
+
+With different flavors, colors, and combinations, a great
+variety of attractive desserts can be made with gelatine.
+They are inexpensive, require no skill, and the work is
+accomplished in a very few minutes.
+
+ [Sidenote: Points to observe in making jellies.]
+
+_Points to Observe in Making Jellies._--Have jellies
+perfectly transparent and brilliant. Use the right
+proportions, so the jelly will hold its form, but not be too
+solid. Mold the jelly carefully.
+
+ [Sidenote: Dissolving.]
+
+_Dissolving._--Gelatine should be soaked in cold water in a
+cold place (one cupful of water to a box of gelatine) for one
+or more hours; then dissolved in a little hot water, or added
+to the hot mixture. Treated in this way it will dissolve
+quickly, and be free from taste or smell. If soaked in warm
+water in a warm place it will have a disagreeable taste and
+odor, requiring much flavoring to overcome.
+
+It does not need cooking. If the jelly is not sufficiently
+firm, add more gelatine; boiling down will not effect the
+purpose.
+
+ [Sidenote: Proportions.]
+
+_Proportions._--Observe the quantity of gelatine stated on the
+box, as some brands do not contain two ounces. Two ounces will
+take one and three quarter quarts of liquid, including that
+used for soaking and flavoring. The directions given on the
+boxes usually give the proportion of one ounce to a quart of
+liquid, but this will not insure a jelly which will stand
+firm, and it is safer to use less liquid.
+
+For this amount two cupfuls of sugar will give about the
+right sweetening, but must be modified to suit the flavoring
+used. In summer, or if the jelly will have to stand any
+length of time after it is unmolded, it is better to use but
+one and one half quarts of liquid to two ounces of gelatine.
+
+ [Sidenote: To clear jelly.]
+
+_Clarifying._--Most of the brands of gelatine are already
+clarified, and need only to be passed through a sieve to
+remove the lemon-zest and any particles of gelatine that
+may not have dissolved. Any fruit juices used should be
+passed through a filter-paper (see below) before being added
+to the jelly: straining the jelly once or twice through
+a felt or flannel will usually give perfectly limpid and
+beautiful jelly. When, however, they need to be clarified,
+or a particularly brilliant jelly is required, stir into
+the mixture when it is cool the whites of two eggs, well
+broken but not too much frothed; add also the shells; stir
+it over the fire until it boils; let it simmer a few minutes
+and strain it, twice if necessary, through a bag, without
+pressure. A piece of flannel laid over a sieve or strainer may
+be substituted for a bag if more convenient.
+
+ [Sidenote: Molding for fancy jellies.]
+
+_Molding for Fancy Jellies._--Place the mold in a bowl
+containing cracked ice; the jelly will then quickly harden,
+and the process of fancy molding not be tedious. Have the mold
+perfectly even, so the jelly will stand firm and straight
+when unmolded; also, do not move the mold while filling, as
+jarring or shaking is likely to separate the layers and cause
+them to fall apart. Have the jelly mixture cold, but not ready
+to set, or it will take in bubbles of air and cloud the jelly.
+Pour in one layer at a time and let it harden before adding
+the next. Do not, however, let it become too firm or gather
+moisture, or it will not unite, and also will be clouded. (See
+picture facing page 386.)
+
+ [Sidenote: To mold with fruit or flowers.]
+
+To suspend a bunch of grapes in the center of a form, first
+pour into the mold a layer of jelly one half inch deep; let it
+harden; then place on it, and arrange in good shape the bunch
+of grapes, leaving one half inch or more space around the
+sides; pour in another half inch of jelly, but not enough to
+float the grapes; when that has set, cut with scissors the
+grape stem in many places, so it will fall apart when served;
+then fill the mold with jelly. Any fruits, or flowers, can be
+put in in the same way, care being used to add at first only
+just enough jelly to fix the ornament; otherwise it will
+float out of place. Plain jellies are more transparent when
+molded in forms having a cylindrical tube in the center, like
+cake-tins. The space left can be filled with whipped cream or
+with fruits, which gives a pretty effect. (See picture.)
+
+[Illustration: JELLY WITH A ROSE MOLDED IN IT AND GARNISHED WITH ROSES.
+(SEE PAGE 414.)]
+
+[Illustration: JELLY WITH A BUNCH OF GRAPES MOLDED IN IT. (SEE PAGE
+414.)]
+
+ [Sidenote: Double molding.]
+
+_Double Molding_ (see page 325) can be used with good effect
+in sweet jellies in combination with whipped jelly, Bavarian
+creams, fruit jellies, etc.
+
+ [Sidenote: Unmolding.]
+
+_Unmolding._--See page 324.
+
+ [Sidenote: Serving.]
+
+_Serving._--Jellies are improved by serving with them
+whipped cream, custard, or puree of fruits. It may be poured
+around, not over, the jelly on the same dish. When a sauce
+is not used, have a lace paper under the jelly. Jelly is
+more attractive when served on a flat glass dish.
+
+ [Sidenote: Fruit jellies.]
+
+For fruit jellies it is well to use a china mold, or else
+coat the tin one with clear jelly (see page 323), as tin is
+likely to discolor it.
+
+ [Sidenote: To clarify fruit juices.]
+
+_To Clarify Fruit Juices._--Pass the fruit juice through
+filter-paper laid in a funnel. If filter-paper is not at hand,
+soak unsized paper to a pulp. Wash it in several waters;
+press it dry; and spread it on a small sieve or in a funnel,
+and drain the juice through it. If orange, lemon, or other
+fruit juices are first clarified, it will often obviate the
+necessity of straining the jelly. (See illustration facing
+page 388.)
+
+
+=WINE JELLY=
+
+ 1/2 box, or 1 ounce, of gelatine.
+ 1/2 cupful of cold water.
+ 2 cupfuls of boiling water.
+ 1 cupful of sugar.
+ Juice of 1 lemon.
+ 3/4 cupful of sherry, or 3 parts sherry, 1 part brandy.
+
+Soak the gelatine in one half cupful of cold water for one hour or more.
+Put the boiling water, the sugar, and a few thin slices of lemon-peel in
+a saucepan on the fire. When the sugar is dissolved, add the soaked
+gelatine, and stir until that also is dissolved; then remove, and when
+it is partly cooled add the lemon-juice and the wine. Strain it through
+a felt or flannel, and turn it into the mold. If the jelly has to be
+clarified do it before adding the wine. Any wine or liqueur can be used
+for flavoring. This will make one quart of jelly.
+
+
+=LEMON JELLY=
+
+ 1/2 box, or 1 ounce, of gelatine.
+ 1/2 cupful of cold water.
+ 2 cupfuls of boiling water.
+ 1 cupful of sugar.
+ Juice of 3 lemons, filtered.
+ Thin slices of lemon-rind.
+
+Put together as directed for wine jelly.
+
+
+=ORANGE JELLY=
+
+ 1/2 box, or 1 ounce, of gelatine.
+ 1/2 cupful of cold water.
+ 1 cupful of boiling water.
+ Juice of 1 lemon.
+ 1 cupful of sugar.
+ 2 cupfuls of orange-juice, filtered.
+
+Combine the same as directed for wine jelly.
+
+A stronger flavor and color of orange can be obtained by soaking with
+the gelatine the grated yellow rind of one or two bright-skinned
+oranges. In this case the juice need not be filtered, for the mixture
+will have to be passed through flannel. Putting it through several times
+gives a clearer and more brilliant jelly.
+
+
+=COFFEE JELLY=
+
+Use the receipt given for wine jelly, using three quarters of a cupful
+of strong filtered coffee instead of wine, and omitting the lemon; mold
+in a ring, and fill the center with whipped cream; or, if this is not
+convenient, use any mold, and serve with it sweetened milk.
+
+
+=CHAMPAGNE JELLY=
+
+ 1/2 box of Cox's gelatine soaked in 1/2 cupful of cold water.
+ 1 cupful of boiling water.
+ 1 cupful of sugar.
+ 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, filtered.
+ 1 cupful of champagne.
+
+Combine the same as wine jelly, and do not add the champagne until the
+jelly is cold. This will give one and a half pints of jelly. It is very
+clear and transparent, and well suited to fancy molding.
+
+
+=CHAMPAGNE JELLY WITH FLOWERS=
+
+Place on ice a broad round mold (a basin will serve the purpose);
+arrange, on a very thin layer of jelly, some pink rose petals in rosette
+form, or to simulate an open rose; add carefully a very little jelly
+with a spoon to set the decoration; when it has hardened, add a very
+little more, and so continue to do until the petals are half enveloped;
+then place in right position some angelica cut in diamond shaped pieces
+to simulate leaves; add a little jelly at a time until the mold is full.
+The petals will be bent out of shape if the jelly is not added very
+slowly. When unmolded place around it some green rose-leaves and a
+few loose pink rose-petals. A little rose-water or essence should be
+used with the champagne to flavor the jelly. Violets and angelica can be
+used in the same way, or a spray of roses with leaves can be put in a
+deeper mold, and when secured in position the stems cut the same as
+directed for molding grapes.
+
+When flowers are used they must be very fresh.
+
+[Illustration: PINK JELLY GARNISHED WITH PINK CARNATIONS.]
+
+
+=WHIPPED JELLY OR SNOW PUDDING=
+
+Make a wine or lemon jelly (page 415). Place it in a bowl on ice; when
+it is cold, but before it begins to harden, beat it with a Dover beater
+until it becomes white and a mass of froth. Turn it into a mold to
+harden. Serve with it a sauce made of boiled custard, or any preserve
+that will go well with the flavoring, or a compote of orange or any
+fruit.
+
+
+=JELLIES WITH FRUITS (Macedoine)=
+
+Berries or any fresh fruits, peeled and quartered, may be placed in
+layers, or irregularly through the entire mold, or a mixture of fruits
+may be used in the same way, when it is called a macedoine. The jelly
+may be clear or whipped. Strawberries, raspberries, currants (red and
+white), cherries, peaches, plums, pears, apricots, and pineapples are
+suitable for this use. Preserved or canned fruits well drained may also
+be used. Candied fruits are especially good, but should be cut into
+pieces, and softened in maraschino. Jellies to be used with fruits are
+best flavored with kirsch or maraschino.
+
+
+=RUSSIAN JELLIES=
+
+For these double molds are used (see page 386).
+
+No. 1. Make the outside layer of any transparent jelly. When hard remove
+the inner mold and fill the space with the same jelly whipped until
+foamy. No. 2. The outside a transparent jelly, the inside one of
+different flavor and color, such as champagne and maraschino colored
+pink, orange and strawberry, lemon and coffee. No. 3. The outside
+champagne jelly, the inside whipped jelly mixed with macedoine of
+fruits. No. 4. The outside wine or maraschino jelly, the filling pain de
+fraises (see page 419). No. 5. The outside fruits in clear jelly, the
+inside Bavarian cream. No. 6. Maraschino jelly, center Bavarian cream
+mixed with crushed peaches or with apricot jam.
+
+
+=RIBBON JELLY=
+
+Make a plain jelly; divide it into three parts; flavor one with
+maraschino; the second with strawberry-juice, and deepen the color with
+a little carmine (see page 392); the third with orange, noyau, or any
+other flavor, and whip it until foamy. Put it into mold in layers,
+beginning with the lightest.
+
+
+=ITALIAN JELLY=
+
+Make a plain blanc-mange (see page 399). Let it set in a layer one half
+inch thick; cut it into small circles, diamonds, or fancy shapes with
+cutters. Arrange these pieces in some design around or inside a mold of
+transparent jelly (see molding jellies, page 324). The blanc-mange may
+be colored pink, green, or yellow, and gives a very pretty effect.
+
+
+=DANTZIC JELLY=
+
+This is a very clear, ornamental jelly, the gold-leaf giving it the
+appearance of Venetian glass, and is good in individual molds to serve
+with ices. Use the receipt for wine jelly, omitting the wine and making
+the amount of liquid right by using more water; clarify or strain it
+several times to make it very brilliant; when it is cold add two
+tablespoonfuls each of eau de vie de Dantzic (see page 390) and brandy.
+
+
+=WHAT TO DO WITH JELLY LEFT OVER=
+
+Add a little lemon-juice, and beat the jelly until it becomes entirely
+white, which will take some time; turn it again into a mold to set. If
+there is not enough jelly for this, cut the jelly into fine dice with a
+knife as directed for cutting aspic on page 323, and beat into it
+lightly an equal quantity of meringue. This should be prepared in a cold
+place.
+
+
+=PAINS AUX FRUITS, OR JELLIED FRUITS=
+
+PAIN DE FRAISES (STRAWBERRIES)
+
+Crush the berries to a pulp; sweeten to taste, and add a little
+flavoring, either orange and lemon juice, maraschino or Curacao. To a
+pint of the pulp add a half box, or one ounce, of Cooper's gelatine,
+which has soaked an hour in one half cupful of cold water, and then been
+dissolved in one half cupful of hot water. Stir until it begins to set;
+then turn it into a china mold to harden. The mold may be ornamented
+with blanched almonds split in two, and arranged in star shapes. When a
+tin mold is used for fruits, it is well to coat it first with plain
+jelly (see page 323), as tin sometimes discolors fruit juices. A little
+carmine may be used to heighten the color of red fruits. Raspberries,
+cherries, peaches, apricots, plums, pineapples, or oranges can be used
+in the same way. This gives a very good dessert with little trouble.
+Serve with cream.
+
+
+=SUPREME OF STRAWBERRIES=
+
+Make a pain de fraises; place it on the outside of a double mold (see
+page 325), and fill the center space with whole berries, or with any
+other fruit or mixture of fruits, such as white grapes and oranges, etc.
+Serve it very cold with whipped cream.
+
+
+=PAIN DE RIZ AUX FRUITS=
+
+(RICE WITH FRUITS)
+
+Make a rice Bavarian (see page 402); mix with it a few chopped blanched
+almonds. Put it in a cylindrical mold in layers with pain de fraises
+(strawberries) or raspberries, keeping the red layer thinner than the
+white one; or mold it in a double mold, using the jellied fruit for the
+center or for the outside.
+
+
+=PAIN DE RIZ A LA PRINCESSE=
+
+Decorate a mold with candied cherries and angelica; line it with rice
+Bavarian, and fill the center with fresh or canned pineapple chopped and
+jellied. The jelly may be clear or whipped or mixed with whipped cream.
+
+
+=PAIN D'ORANGES=
+
+(ORANGES)
+
+Take off the peel and divide into sections eight to ten oranges; run a
+knife between the skin and pulp and remove it carefully. Place the bare
+but unbroken pulp on a sieve to drain; roll each piece in powdered
+sugar, and lay them overlapping in a ring around a cylindrical mold; fix
+and cover them with clear jelly flavored with kirsch or maraschino.
+Arrange them in the same way around the outside of a double mold. Fill
+the center with orange Bavarian, using the juice drained from the pieces
+to flavor the Bavarian. Serve it with orange quarter cakes (see page
+478) around the dish.
+
+
+=PAIN DE PECHES=
+
+(PEACHES)
+
+No. 1. Make a jelly of peaches the same as rule given above for
+strawberries; color it with a little carmine, giving it a delicate pink
+shade; garnish the mold with blanched almonds and angelica, and fill it
+with the jellied peach-pulp. No. 2. Cut peaches in quarters or halves,
+and arrange them in a double mold with blanched almonds to look like the
+pits; fill the center with peach Bavarian.
+
+
+=PAIN DE MARRONS=
+
+(CHESTNUTS)
+
+Make a puree of boiled chestnuts; sweeten and flavor with vanilla; add
+to one pint of puree one ounce of dissolved gelatine; when beginning to
+set add a few spoonfuls of whipped cream; cover a mold with thin coating
+of jelly (see page 323), and fill outside of double mold with very brown
+chocolate Bavarian (see page 401); fill the center with the jellied
+chestnuts.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX
+
+HOT DESSERTS
+
+=SOUFFLES=
+
+
+ [Sidenote: General remarks.]
+
+The preparation of souffles is exceedingly simple, the only
+difficulty being in serving them soon enough, as they fall
+very quickly when removed from the heat. They must go directly
+from the oven to the table, and if the dining-room is far
+removed from the kitchen the souffle should be covered with a
+hot pan until it reaches the door. The plain omelet souffle is
+the most difficult. Those made with a cooked foundation do not
+fall as quickly, but they also must be served at once. In
+order to insure the condition upon which the whole success of
+the dish depends, it is better to keep the table waiting,
+rather than suffer the result of the omelet being cooked
+too soon. Have everything ready before beginning to make a
+souffle, and see that the oven is right. In adding the beaten
+whites "fold" them in, that is, lift the mixture from the
+bottom, and use care not to break it down by too much mixing.
+
+
+=OMELET SOUFFLE=
+
+ Whites of 6 eggs.
+ Yolks of 3 eggs.
+ Grated zest of 1/2 lemon.
+ 3 rounded tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, sifted.
+ 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice.
+
+Whip the whites of the eggs, with a pinch of salt added to them, to a
+very dry stiff froth. Beat to a cream the yolks and the sugar, then add
+the lemon. Fold in the beaten whites lightly (do not stir) and turn the
+mixture into a slightly oiled pudding-dish. If preferred, turn a part of
+it onto a flat dish, and with a knife shape it into a mound with a
+depression in the center. Put the rest into a pastry-bag, and press it
+out through a large tube, into lines and dots over the mound; sprinkle
+it with sugar and bake it in a very hot oven eight to ten minutes. Serve
+at once in the same dish in which it is baked (see souffles above). The
+flavor may be vanilla, or orange if preferred.
+
+
+=VANILLA SOUFFLE=
+
+ 1 cupful of milk.
+ 2 tablespoonfuls of flour.
+ 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar.
+ 2 tablespoonfuls of butter.
+ 1/4 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1 teaspoonful of vanilla.
+ 4 eggs.
+
+Put the milk into a double boiler with the salt; when it is scalded add
+the butter and flour, which have been rubbed together. Stir for ten
+minutes to cook the flour and form a smooth paste; then turn it onto the
+yolks of the eggs, which, with the sugar added, have been beaten to a
+cream. Mix thoroughly, flavor, and set away to cool; rub a little butter
+over the top, so that no crust will form. Just before time to serve,
+fold into it lightly the whites of the eggs, which have been beaten to a
+stiff froth. Turn it into a buttered pudding-dish and bake in a moderate
+oven for thirty to forty minutes; or, put the mixture into buttered
+paper cases, filling them one half full, and bake ten to fifteen
+minutes. Serve with the souffle foamy sauce (page 445). This souffle may
+be varied by using different flavors; also by putting a layer of crushed
+fruit in the bottom of the dish, or by mixing a half cupful of
+fruit-pulp with the paste before the whites are added. In this case the
+whites of two more eggs will be needed to give sufficient lightness.
+Serve at once after it is taken from the oven.
+
+
+=CHOCOLATE SOUFFLE=
+
+ 3 ounces of chocolate.
+ 1 heaping tablespoonful of sugar.[423-*]
+ 2 rounded tablespoonfuls of flour.
+ 1/2 cupful of milk.
+ Yolks of 3 eggs.
+ Whites of 4 eggs.
+ 1 rounded tablespoonful of butter.
+
+Melt the butter in a small saucepan; stir into it the flour and let it
+cook a minute, but not brown, then add slowly the milk and stir until
+smooth and a little thickened; remove it from the fire and turn it
+slowly onto the yolks and sugar, which have been beaten to a cream; mix
+thoroughly and add the melted chocolate (see page 388); stir for a few
+minutes, then set it away to cool; rub a little butter over the top so a
+crust will not form. When ready to serve, stir the mixture well to make
+it smooth and fold into it lightly the whites of the eggs, which have
+been whipped until very dry and firm. Turn the mixture into a buttered
+tin, filling it two thirds full. Have the tin lined with a strip of
+greased paper which rises above the sides to confine the souffle as it
+rises. Place the tin in a deep saucepan containing enough hot water to
+cover one half the tin. Cover the saucepan and place it where the water
+will simmer for thirty minutes, keeping it covered all the time. Place
+the tin on a very hot dish and serve at once. Cover the top with a hot
+tin until it reaches the dining-room if it has to be carried far.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[423-*] If unsweetened chocolate is used, add about three more
+tablespoonfuls of sugar or to taste, and a teaspoonful of vanilla.
+
+
+=PRUNE SOUFFLE=
+
+ 1/2 pound of prunes.
+ 3 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar.
+ 4 eggs.
+ 1 small teaspoonful of vanilla.
+
+Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar to a cream, add the vanilla,
+and mix them with the prunes, the prunes having been stewed, drained,
+the stones removed, and each prune cut into four pieces. When ready to
+serve fold in lightly the whites of the eggs, which have been whipped to
+a stiff froth, a dash of salt having been added to the whites before
+whipping them. Turn it into a pudding-dish and bake in a moderate oven
+for twenty minutes. Serve it as soon as it is taken from the oven. A few
+chopped almonds, or meats from the prune-pits, may be added to the
+mixture before the whites are put in if desired.
+
+
+=APPLE SOUFFLE=
+
+Boil some peeled and cored apples until tender; press them through a
+colander; season to taste with butter, sugar, and vanilla. Place the
+puree in a granite-ware saucepan and let it cook until quite dry and
+firm. To one and one quarter cupfuls of the hot reduced apple puree add
+the whites of four eggs, whipped very stiff and sweetened with three
+tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. Mix the puree and meringue lightly and
+quickly together and turn it into a pudding-dish; smooth the top into a
+mound shape; sprinkle with sugar and bake in a slow oven twenty to
+twenty-five minutes. This souffle does not fall. Serve with a hard, a
+plain pudding, or an apricot sauce.
+
+
+=FARINA PUDDING=
+
+This is a very wholesome, delicate pudding, and is especially
+recommended. The receipt gives an amount sufficient for six people.
+
+ 2 cupfuls of milk (1 pint).
+ 4 tablespoonfuls of farina.
+ 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar.
+ 3 eggs.
+ Grated rind of 1/2 lemon.
+
+Put the milk and lemon-zest into a double boiler; when it reaches the
+boiling-point stir in the farina and cook for five minutes; then remove
+from the fire and turn it onto the yolks and sugar, which have been
+beaten together until light; stir all the time. Let it become cool but
+not stiff; when ready to bake it, fold in lightly the whites of the eggs
+beaten to a stiff froth, a dash of salt added to them before beating.
+Turn it into a pudding-dish and place the dish in a pan containing
+enough hot water to half cover it. Bake it in a moderately hot oven for
+twenty-five minutes. Serve at once, or, like other souffles, it will
+fall. Serve with it a sabayon No. 2, or a meringue sauce (pages 446 and
+448).
+
+
+
+SWEET OMELETS
+
+
+These desserts are quickly made, are always liked, and serve well in
+emergencies.
+
+
+=ORANGE OMELET=
+
+ 3 eggs.
+ 3 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar.
+ 1 orange, using the grated rind and 3 tablespoonfuls of juice.
+
+Beat the yolks of the eggs with the sugar to a cream; add the grated
+zest of the rind and the orange juice; then fold in lightly the beaten
+whites of the eggs. Have a clean, smooth omelet or frying-pan; put in a
+teaspoonful of butter, rubbing it around the sides as well as bottom of
+the pan. When the butter bubbles, turn in the omelet mixture and spread
+it evenly. Do not shake the pan. Let it cook until it is a delicate
+brown and seems cooked through, but not hard. Fold the edges over a
+little and turn it onto a flat hot dish; sprinkle it plentifully with
+powdered sugar; heat the poker red hot and lay it on the omelet four
+times, leaving crossed burnt lines in the form of a star. This ornaments
+the top and also gives a caramel flavor to the sugar.
+
+
+=JAM OMELET=
+
+Make a French omelet as directed on page 264, using four to six eggs;
+omit the pepper and add a little powdered sugar. When the omelet is
+ready to turn, place in the center two tablespoonfuls of any jam
+(apricot is particularly good) and fold. Turn the omelet onto a hot dish
+and sprinkle it with sugar.
+
+
+=RUM OMELET=
+
+Make either a French omelet, or a beaten omelet, using a little sugar
+and omitting the pepper. Place the dish holding the omelet on a second
+and larger dish to prevent accident from fire. When ready to place on
+the table pour over the omelet a few spoonfuls of rum or brandy and
+light it. It is better not to touch the match to it until it is on the
+table.
+
+
+=SWEET PANCAKES=
+
+ 3 eggs.
+ 1 cupful of milk.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1 teaspoonful of sugar.
+ 1/2 cupful of flour.
+ 1/2 tablespoonful of oil.
+
+Beat the yolks and whites of the eggs separately; mix them together and
+add the salt, sugar, and one half the milk; stir in the flour, making a
+smooth paste; then add the rest of the milk, and lastly the oil; beat
+well and let it stand an hour or more before using. Bake on a hot
+griddle in large or small cakes as desired; spread each cake with butter
+and a little jam or jelly, then roll them, sprinkle with sugar, and
+serve at once. Any pancake batter can be used. Those made of rice or
+hominy are good. The batter can be made of a consistency for thick or
+thin cakes by using more or less milk. Currant or tart jelly is better
+to use than a sweet preserve.
+
+
+
+FRITTERS
+
+
+With fritter batter a number of good desserts are made, which, if
+properly fried, will be entirely free from grease, and perfectly
+wholesome.
+
+
+=FRITTER BATTER=
+
+ 2 eggs.
+ 1 tablespoonful of oil.
+ 1 cupful of flour.
+ 1/2 cupful of cold water.
+ 1 saltspoonful of salt.
+ If for sweet fritters, 1 teaspoonful of sugar and 1 tablespoonful of
+ brandy.
+
+For clam or oyster fritters use one tablespoonful of lemon juice or
+vinegar, salt and pepper to taste, and the liquor of the clams or
+oysters instead of water.
+
+Stir the salt into the egg-yolks; add slowly the oil, then the brandy
+and the sugar; the brandy may be omitted if desired, and if so, use two
+tablespoonfuls of oil instead of one. When well mixed stir in slowly the
+flour, and then the water, a little at a time. Beat it well and set it
+aside for two hours (it is better to let it stand longer); when ready to
+use, stir in the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. The batter
+should be very thick and of the consistency to coat completely the
+article it is intended to cover. If not soft enough add the white of
+another egg.
+
+
+=APPLE FRITTERS=
+
+Cut firm apples crosswise into slices one quarter of an inch thick. With
+a biscuit-cutter stamp them into circles of uniform size; sprinkle them
+with orange sugar (see page 391), and moisten them with brandy. Let them
+stand to soak for ten minutes, then dry one or two at a time on a
+napkin; dip them in batter, using care to have them completely coated,
+and drop them into hot fat (see frying, page 72). Fry to an amber color;
+lift them out on a skimmer and dry on paper in an open oven until all
+are fried; then roll them in sugar and serve on a folded napkin, the
+slices overlapping. Fry only two at a time, so they can be kept well
+apart. Serve with a sauce flavored with brandy or sherry.
+
+
+=PEACH OR APRICOT FRITTERS=
+
+Cut the fruit in half; sprinkle with sugar moistened with maraschino,
+and roll them in powdered macaroons before dipping them in the batter.
+Fry as directed above. Well-drained canned fruit may also be used for
+fritters.
+
+
+=ORANGE FRITTERS=
+
+Cut the oranges in quarters; take out the seeds and run a knife between
+the pulp and peel, freeing the orange and leaving it raw. Roll them in
+powdered sugar and dip in batter before the sugar has time to dissolve;
+fry as directed for apple fritters.
+
+
+=FRITTERS MADE OF BISCUIT DOUGH=
+
+Make a biscuit dough as given on page 352; turn it on a floured board
+and let it rise until light, then roll it one eighth of an inch thick
+and cut it into circles with a fluted patty-cutter. Put a teaspoonful of
+jam in the center of a circle. Wet the edges and cover with a second
+circle; press the edges lightly together and fry in hot fat.
+
+
+=BALLOONS=
+
+Put a cupful of water in a saucepan; when it boils add one tablespoonful
+of butter; when the butter is melted add one cupful of flour and beat it
+with a fork or wire whip until it is smooth and leaves the sides of the
+pan. Remove from the fire and add three eggs, one at a time, beating
+vigorously each one before adding the next. Let it stand until cold.
+When ready to serve, drop a spoonful at a time into moderately hot fat
+and fry for about 15 minutes. Take out on a skimmer and dry on brown
+paper. The batter will puff into hollow balls. If the fat is very hot it
+will crisp the outside too soon and prevent the balls from puffing. Fry
+only a few at a time, as they must be kept separated. Sprinkle with
+powdered sugar and pile on a folded napkin. Serve with lemon sauce made
+as follows.
+
+Lemon sauce: Strain the juice of one and a half lemons; add one cupful
+of powdered sugar, then a half cupful of boiling water.
+
+
+=BATTER PUDDING=
+
+ 1 cupful of milk.
+ 1 heaping tablespoonful of butter.
+ 1/2 cupful of flour.
+ 3 eggs.
+
+Put the milk in a double boiler; when hot add the butter. Let the milk
+boil; then add the flour, and beat it hard until it leaves the sides of
+the pan; then remove from the fire and stir in gradually the eggs, which
+have been well beaten, the yolks and whites together, and a dash of
+salt. Continue to beat the batter until it is no longer stringy. Turn it
+into a warm greased pudding-dish, and bake in a moderate oven thirty to
+thirty-five minutes. It should puff up like a cream cake, and have a
+thick crust. Serve as soon as it is taken from the oven, or it will
+fall. The batter may stand some time before baking if convenient. It may
+be baked in gem-pans fifteen to twenty minutes if preferred. Serve with
+plain pudding or hard sauce.
+
+
+
+DESSERTS MADE OF APPLES
+
+
+=SNOW APPLE PUDDING=
+
+Fill a pudding-dish half full of apple puree or sauce, well seasoned
+with butter, sugar, and nutmeg. Pour over it a batter made of one and a
+half cupfuls of flour mixed with two heaping teaspoonfuls of
+baking-powder, one half teaspoonful of salt, and a tablespoonful of
+chopped suet or of lard. Moisten it with about three quarters of a
+cupful of milk, or enough to make a thick batter. It should not be as
+stiff as for biscuits. Cook in a steamer about three quarters of an
+hour, and serve at once with a hard, foamy, sabayon, or any other sauce.
+The top will be very light and white. This quantity is enough to serve
+six people.
+
+
+=BROWN BETTY=
+
+In a quart pudding-dish arrange alternate layers of sliced apples and
+bread-crumbs; season each layer with bits of butter, a little sugar, and
+a pinch each of ground cinnamon, cloves, and allspice. When the dish is
+full pour over it a half cupful each of molasses and water mixed; cover
+the top with crumbs. Place the dish in a pan containing hot water, and
+bake for three quarters of an hour, or until the apples are soft. Serve
+with cream or with any sauce. Raisins or chopped almonds improve the
+pudding.
+
+
+=BAKED APPLE DUMPLINGS=
+
+Make a short pie-crust; roll it thin and cut it into squares large
+enough to cover an apple. Select apples of the same size; pare them;
+remove the core with a corer, and fill the space with sugar, butter, a
+little ground cinnamon, and nutmeg. Place an apple in the center of each
+square of pie-crust; wet the edges with white of egg and fold together,
+the points meeting on the top; give the edges a pinch and turn, making
+them fluted. Bake in a moderate oven about forty minutes, or until the
+apples are tender, but not until they have lost their form. If
+preferred, the crust may be folded under the apple, leaving it round. It
+must be well joined, so the juices will not escape. Brush the top with
+egg, and ten minutes before removing from the oven dust them with a
+little sugar to give them a glaze.
+
+Serve with hard sauce.
+
+[Illustration: BAKED APPLE DUMPLINGS. (SEE PAGE 429.)]
+
+
+=APPLE CHARLOTTE=
+
+Cut bread into slices one quarter inch thick; then into strips one and a
+half inches wide, and as long as the height of the mold to be used; cut
+one piece to fit the top of mold, then divide it into five or six
+pieces. Butter the mold; dip the slices of bread into melted butter, and
+arrange them on the bottom and around the sides of the mold, fitting
+closely together or overlapping. Fill the center entirely full with
+apple sauce made of tart apples stewed until tender, then broken into
+coarse pieces, drained, and seasoned with butter and sugar. A little
+apricot jam can be put in the center if desired; chopped almonds also
+may be added. Cover the top with bread, and bake in a hot oven about
+thirty minutes. The bread should be an amber color like toast. Turn it
+carefully onto a flat dish. Serve with a hard sauce or any other sauce
+preferred.
+
+
+=APPLES WITH RICE, No. 1=
+
+Boil half a cupful of rice with a saltspoonful of salt in milk until
+tender; sweeten it to taste; drain it if the milk is not all absorbed;
+press it into a basin; smooth it over the top; when it has cooled enough
+to hold the form, turn it onto a flat dish. This will be a socle, and
+should be about one and a half to two inches high. Pare and core as
+many apples as will stand on the top of the socle; boil them slowly
+until tender in sugar and water; remove them before they lose shape.
+Boil the sugar and water down to a thick syrup. Arrange the apples on
+the top of the rice, and pour over them a little of the thickened syrup;
+then fill the center of each apple with jam; place a candied cherry on
+each one, and a pointed piece of angelica between each apple. The syrup
+should give enough sauce, but Richelieu sauce is recommended instead.
+Serve hot or cold.
+
+[Illustration: STEWED APPLES ON A RICE SOCLE--GARNISHED WITH CANDIED
+CHERRIES AND ANGELICA. (SEE PAGE 430.)]
+
+
+=APPLES WITH RICE, No. 2=
+
+Boil the rice as above; sweeten it and flavor it with a few drops of
+orange-flower water, almond, or other essence, and mix into it a few
+chopped blanched almonds. Turn it onto a flat dish, and press it into a
+mound or cone. Cut some apples of uniform size in halves, cutting from
+the stem to the blossom; remove the core with a vegetable scoop (see
+illustration), and pare off the skin carefully; stew the apples slowly
+until tender, but still firm enough to hold their shape; before removing
+them add a few drops of carmine to the water, and let them stand until
+they have become a delicate pink; then drain and place them evenly and
+upright against the form of rice. Put some meringue in a pastry-bag, and
+press it in lines or dots around the apples and over the top of the
+rice, making it as ornamental as desired. Dust it with sugar, and place
+for one minute in the oven to slightly color the meringue, but not long
+enough to dry the surface of the apples. Serve with whipped cream, with
+fruit sauce, Richelieu sauce, or wine sauce.
+
+Whipped cream may be substituted for the meringue, in which case place
+the apples overlapping one another around the rice in wreath shape;
+flatten the top of the rice, and pile the whipped cream on it. Another
+form may be made by putting the rice in a border-mold to shape it,
+filling the center of the rice with a well-seasoned apple puree, and
+finishing as directed above.
+
+[Illustration: STEWED APPLES CUT IN HALVES AND ARRANGED AROUND A RICE
+SOCLE--GARNISHED WITH MERINGUE. (SEE PAGE 431.)]
+
+
+=APPLES WITH CORN-STARCH (Felice)=
+
+Pare and core as many apples as will be used, having them of uniform
+size. To a quart of water add one half cupful of sugar and the juice of
+half a lemon; boil the apples in this until tender, but remove them
+before they lose shape; drain and place them in regular order on the
+dish in which they are to be served. Boil the water down one half; then
+stir into it one tablespoonful of corn-starch or arrowroot moistened in
+a little water; let it cook until the starch is clear; remove from the
+fire; flavor with lemon, almond, kirsch, or anything preferred; let it
+stiffen a little; then pour it over the apples; sprinkle with sugar and
+place in the oven a moment to brown, or, omitting the browning, sprinkle
+them with green and pink sugar (see page 393), or stick them full of
+split almonds.
+
+
+=FLAMING APPLES=
+
+Pare and core the apples; stew them in sugar and water until tender, but
+still firm enough to hold their shape. Remove them carefully to the
+serving-dish; fill the centers with apricot or raspberry jam; boil down
+the liquor to a thick syrup and pour it over the apples; just before
+serving pour over them a few spoonfuls of rum or brandy, and light it
+with a taper after it is on the table. Serve with fancy cakes.
+
+
+=BAKED APPLES=
+
+(FOR BREAKFAST)
+
+Select apples of equal size; wash and polish them; remove the core.
+Place them in a baking-tin a little distance apart, and put a little
+water in the bottom of the pan. Bake in a moderate oven about thirty
+minutes; baste frequently, so they will not burn or blacken. Serve with
+sugar and cream.
+
+
+=BAKED APPLES=
+
+(FOR LUNCHEON)
+
+Pare and core the apples; fill the centers with butter and sugar. Let
+them bake in a pan with a little water until tender, but still in good
+shape; baste frequently, letting them become only slightly colored.
+After removing from the oven sprinkle them with granulated sugar and a
+little powdered cinnamon or nutmeg.
+
+
+=TAPIOCA PUDDING=
+
+Arrange evenly in a buttered dish six apples which have been pared and
+cored. Any other fruit may be used--canned peaches are good. Soak a
+cupful of tapioca in hot water for an hour or more; sweeten and flavor
+it to taste and pour it over the fruit. Bake in a moderate oven for an
+hour.
+
+[Illustration: PUDDING MOLDS.]
+
+
+
+RICE PUDDINGS
+
+
+=PLAIN RICE PUDDING No. 1=
+
+In a pudding-dish holding a quart, put two heaping tablespoonfuls of
+well-washed rice; fill the dish with milk, and add a half teaspoonful of
+salt. Let it cook in the oven for half an hour, stirring it two or three
+times. Take it out and add two tablespoonfuls of sugar and a scant
+teaspoonful of vanilla; also a half cupful of stoned raisins if desired.
+Grate nutmeg over the top; return the dish to the oven and cook slowly
+for two hours or more; as the milk boils down, lift the skin at the side
+and add more hot milk. The pudding should be creamy, and this is
+attained by slow cooking, and by using plenty of milk.
+
+
+=RICE PUDDING No. 2=
+
+Scald a pint and a half of milk; add a tablespoonful of cornstarch which
+has been moistened with a little of the cold milk; cook it for a few
+minutes; then remove it from the fire and stir in three cupfuls of
+boiled rice, a cupful or more of sugar to taste, and the beaten yolks of
+two eggs. Return it to the fire and cook it until thickened, stirring
+constantly but carefully. Turn it into a dish, cover the top with
+meringue, and place it in the oven for a few minutes to brown.
+
+
+=RICE AND RAISINS=
+
+Mix with two cupfuls of boiled rice a half or three quarters cupful of
+raisins. The rice should be boiled as directed on page 222, and the
+raisins should be soaked in hot water until plump, and the seeds
+removed. Press the mixture into a bowl to give it shape, and turn it
+onto a flat dish. Grate nutmeg over the top. Serve with sweetened milk a
+little flavored with vanilla or almond, or only nutmeg.
+
+For Lemon Rice Pudding, see page 242.
+
+For Rice and Orange Marmalade Pudding, see page 242.
+
+
+
+BREAD PUDDINGS
+
+
+=BREAD PUDDING No. 1=
+
+ 2 cupfuls of milk.
+ 1 cupful of bread-crumbs or broken bread.
+ 1 tablespoonful of sugar.
+ 2 egg-yolks.
+ 1 egg-white.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of vanilla.
+ 1 saltspoonful of salt.
+
+Soak the bread in the milk until softened; then beat it until smooth and
+add the rest of the ingredients excepting the white of egg. Turn it into
+a pudding-dish, place this in a pan of hot water, and bake in a slow
+oven fifteen to twenty minutes, or only long enough to set the custard
+without its separating. Cover the top with a layer of jam or with tart
+jelly, and place in the center a ball of meringue made with the white of
+one egg; dust with sugar, place in the oven a moment to brown the
+meringue, and then put a piece of jelly on the top of the meringue.
+Serve hot or cold. The jelly and meringue answers as a sauce.
+
+
+=BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING=
+
+Cut stale bread into thin slices; remove the crusts, dip them in melted
+butter, and arrange them in a small bread or square cake-tin in even
+layers, alternating with layers of stoned raisins. When the mold is
+full, pour over it a mixture made of one pint of milk, the yolks of two
+eggs, and two tablespoonfuls of sugar. Use only as much as the bread
+will absorb. Bake in a moderate oven twenty to thirty minutes. Turn it
+onto a flat dish and serve with it a plain pudding sauce. The bread
+should be dry and crisp and hold the form of the mold.
+
+
+=BREAD TARTS=
+
+Cut bread into slices a quarter of an inch thick, then with a
+biscuit-cutter about three inches in diameter stamp it into circles.
+Moisten the circles of bread with milk, but do not use enough to cause
+them to fall apart; then spread them with any jam or preserve and place
+two together like a sandwich. Place them in a frying-pan with a little
+butter, and saute them on both sides to a delicate color. Sprinkle with
+powdered sugar and serve very hot. A sabayon or other sauce can be
+served with them if convenient, but it is not essential.
+
+For other bread puddings see Blueberry Pudding and Cherry Bread, page
+241.
+
+
+
+CAKE PUDDINGS
+
+
+=COTTAGE PUDDING=
+
+ 1 cupful of flour.
+ 1 heaping teaspoonful of baking-powder.
+ 1 tablespoonful of butter.
+ 1/2 cupful of sugar.
+ 1/2 cupful of milk.
+ 1 saltspoonful of salt.
+ 1 egg.
+
+Mix the baking-powder with the flour and sift them. Rub the butter and
+sugar together to a cream and beat into it the egg; then add the milk,
+in which the salt has been dissolved. Add the flour; beat well together
+and turn into a cake-tin having a tube in the center. Bake about
+twenty-five minutes in a moderate oven. Turn it onto a flat dish,
+leaving it bottom side up. The chocolate sauce given below is
+recommended, but any other sauce may be served with it.
+
+Chocolate sauce: Melt three ounces or squares of Baker's chocolate on a
+dry pan (see page 388); add one half cupful of sugar and one half
+cupful of boiling water. Stir until well dissolved and smooth, then add
+one quarter teaspoonful of vanilla.
+
+
+=CANARY PUDDING=
+
+Take the mixture for Genoese cake, which is three eggs, and their weight
+respectively of sugar, butter, and flour; cream the butter and sugar;
+then beat in, one at a time, the three eggs; add lightly the sifted
+flour. Butter a covered pudding-mold; decorate it with raisins, or
+sprinkle it all over with currants; fill it half full of the mixture;
+cover and steam for one hour, or put it in individual timbale-molds and
+bake for twenty minutes. Serve with wine or fruit or Richelieu sauce.
+
+
+=SUET PUDDING=
+
+ 1 cupful of molasses.
+ 1 teaspoonful of soda.
+ 1 cupful of milk
+ 3-1/2 cupfuls of flour.
+ 1 cupful of stoned raisins.
+ 1 cupful of suet, chopped fine.
+ 1 teaspoonful of salt.
+
+Mix the salt, flour, and suet together. Mix the molasses and milk; add
+the soda and then as much of the flour mixture as will make a stiff
+batter (not dough), then add the raisins floured, and fill a covered
+pudding-mold half full; steam for three hours. Serve with foamy, wine,
+or brandy sauce.
+
+
+=FARINA PUDDING (Boiled)=
+
+Stir into three cupfuls of boiling milk one cupful of farina, and cook
+for ten minutes. Rub together one tablespoonful of butter and two
+tablespoonfuls of sugar; add the yolks of three eggs, the grated rind of
+one lemon and twenty-five chopped blanched almonds. Stir this mixture
+into the farina after it is a little cooled; lastly add the whites of
+three eggs beaten to stiff froth. Boil this pudding in a covered mold
+for one and a half hours. Serve with any pudding sauce.
+
+
+=CHRISTMAS PLUM PUDDING=
+
+ 3/4 pound of suet chopped very fine; mix with it, while chopping, a
+ tablespoonful of flour.
+ 3/4 pound of raisins seeded.
+ 3/4 pound of currants.
+ 3/4 pound of sugar.
+ 3/4 pound of fresh bread-crumbs.
+ Grated zest of one lemon.
+ 1/4 pound candied orange-peel and citron cut into thin shavings.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful each of ground cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, and allspice.
+
+Mix the dry materials together thoroughly, and then add six eggs, one at
+a time, and one half cupful of brandy; add another egg if too stiff, and
+more crumbs if too soft. Wet a strong cloth in cold water, wring it dry,
+butter it, and dredge it well with flour; turn the mixture into the
+center and draw the cloth together over the top, leaving room for the
+pudding to swell a little, and tie it firmly; give it a good round
+shape. Put it into a pot of boiling water, having it completely covered
+with water; cover the pot and boil four to five hours. Do not let the
+water fall below the pudding, and in adding more let it be hot, so as to
+not arrest the boiling. After it is removed from the water let it rest
+in the bag for ten minutes to harden a little, then cut the string and
+turn it carefully onto a dish. Cut a small hole in the top of the
+pudding and insert a paper bonbon case (see page 386); trim it so it
+does not show. Pour rum or brandy onto the dish and also into the paper
+box on top; place it on the table and touch it with a lighted taper.
+Serve with a brandy sauce. The amount given will serve twelve to
+fourteen persons. The mixture may be divided and boiled in small
+puddings if it is too much to use at one time. It will keep for a long
+time, and the puddings can be warmed when used. Slices of cold plum
+pudding may be steamed and served with a sauce; or they may be rolled in
+egg and crumbs and fried in hot fat, and be served as fruit croquettes.
+
+
+=FIG PUDDING=
+
+ 1/2 cupful of chopped figs.
+ 1/2 cupful of chopped suet.
+ 2 cupfuls of white bread-crumbs.
+ 1/2 cupful of sugar.
+ 1 cupful of milk.
+ 1/4 cupful of flour.
+ 1/2 cupful of chopped almonds.
+ 4 eggs.
+ 1 teaspoonful of baking-powder.
+ 3 tablespoonfuls of noyau or other flavor.
+
+Flour the figs and suet. Soak the bread-crumbs in the milk, add the
+sugar, then the egg-yolks, and beat it well; then add slowly, stirring
+all the time, the figs, suet, almonds, flour mixed with the
+baking-powder, flavoring, and lastly the whites of the eggs beaten very
+stiff. Turn it into a covered pudding-mold, filling it three quarters
+full; steam for three hours. This mixture will fill twelve individual
+molds. If the small molds are used, place a star of angelica in the
+bottom of each one and cover it with a thin layer of boiled rice; then
+fill three quarters full with the pudding mixture; place them in a pan
+of hot water, cover with a greased paper, and poach on top of the range
+for one and one half hours. This pudding can have brandy poured over and
+lighted the same as the plum pudding. Serve with a syrup sauce flavored
+the same as the pudding.
+
+
+=CABINET PUDDING No. 1=
+
+Ornament the bottom of a well-buttered mold with citron and raisins.
+Cover them with slices of cake; then fill the mold nearly full with
+alternate layers of fruit and cake, arranging the fruit on the edges of
+the fruit layers so it will be even and symmetrical. Make a custard
+mixture of a pint of milk, three egg-yolks, and three tablespoonfuls of
+sugar. Pour it slowly into the mold, so the cake will be thoroughly
+soaked, and set it in a pan of water. Bake it in a slow oven for an
+hour, or until the custard is set. Unmold the pudding, and serve with it
+a wine sauce.
+
+
+=CABINET PUDDING No. 2=
+
+Cut a half pound of candied fruits into dice, using cherries, apricots,
+plums, limes, etc.; also some candied orange-peel shredded. Butter well
+a plain cylindrical mold; sprinkle over the bottom a thin layer of the
+fruit, then a layer of cake (genoese, or sponge layer cake, see page
+466). Fill the mold to within an inch of the top with alternate layers
+of fruit and cake, using also some macaroons. Leave always some fruit on
+the sides of the mold. Then turn in slowly a custard mixture made of one
+pint of milk, the yolks of five eggs, and two and one half
+tablespoonfuls of sugar. Let it stand a few minutes for the cake to
+absorb the liquid; then place the mold in a pan of hot water, and poach
+in a slow oven for one hour. This pudding is usually served hot, but may
+be served cold. Serve with Sabayon, Richelieu, or Bischoff sauces. (See
+pudding sauces.)
+
+
+=CABINET PUDDING No. 3 (Royale)=
+
+Take a loaf of brioche (see page 359 and 361) baked the day before in a
+cylindrical mold. Cut it into slices one half inch thick. Cut with a
+small patty-cutter a round piece from the center of all but two of the
+slices. Cut the crust from the outside, taking as little as possible.
+Spread each slice with apricot jam, and sprinkle with chopped almonds.
+Butter the mold well, and replace the slices, using on the bottom one
+which has not had a hole cut in the center. When all but the last slice
+are in, fill the well in the center with mixed canned fruits well
+drained, using pineapple, apricots, a few candied cherries, and chopped
+almonds; then pour in a custard mixture made of one pint of milk, four
+yolks of eggs, two and a half tablespoonfuls of sugar. Let the brioche
+absorb the liquid; then cover with the second whole slice, and pour over
+that, too, some of the custard mixture. Place the mold in a pan of hot
+water, and poach in a slow oven for one hour. Let it stand a little
+while in the mold after it is cooked. When ready to serve, unmold,
+spread the whole outside with apricot jam, and sprinkle with chopped
+almonds. Serve with apricot sauce or any other sauce.
+
+
+=CABINET PUDDING No. 4=
+
+Cut slices of bread one half inch thick to fit a mold. Fill the mold
+with alternate layers of bread and chopped drained pineapple (fresh or
+canned). Pour in a custard mixture made of one pint of milk, yolks of
+three eggs, and three tablespoonfuls of sugar. Bake in a slow oven for
+one hour (as directed above), or until the custard is set. Serve with a
+sauce made of the juice of the fruit diluted and thickened with a little
+arrowroot, then sweetened and flavored (with kirsch if liked), and a few
+shredded almonds.
+
+
+=SAVARINS=
+
+Butter some individual timbale-molds, sprinkle them with chopped
+almonds, fill them half full of brioche paste (see page 359), let the
+paste rise to the top of the molds, and then bake in a hot oven for
+about twenty minutes. When baked, cut off the top even with the mold,
+and turn them out. Pour over them a hot syrup made of one cupful of
+sugar and three quarters of a cupful of water boiled for ten minutes (or
+to 30 deg.), and flavored with four teaspoonfuls of kirsch. Other flavors
+may be used if preferred. Let the savarins absorb enough of the hot
+syrup to be well moistened, but not so much as to lose their firmness.
+Drain and serve them hot. Or incorporate into the paste before molding a
+little shredded candied orange-peel. Soak them, when baked, in syrup
+flavored with orange or curacao, and cover them with an orange fondant
+icing (see page 485), and serve cold.
+
+
+=BABA=
+
+Into three cupfuls of brioche paste mix one cupful of currants, raisins,
+and chopped citron, which have soaked for an hour in maraschino. Half
+fill buttered baba-molds (which are cups holding about one half pint);
+let it rise to top of mold, which will take about three quarters of an
+hour. It must not rise in too warm a place, or the butter will separate.
+Bake them in a moderate oven one half hour. Let them absorb hot syrup at
+30 deg., flavored with kirsch or sherry.
+
+
+
+CUSTARDS
+
+
+=CREME PARISIENNE=
+
+This is the same as caramel custard (page 396), except that it is served
+hot. Butter well a flat mold or basin, ornament the bottom with a few
+candied cherries and angelica, pour over them caramel which is not
+browned deeper than an amber color, and do not use enough to float the
+fruits. Let it cool before adding the custard mixture. When it is baked,
+let the mold stand in the hot water until the moment of serving.
+
+
+=FRIED CREAM=
+
+ 1 pint of milk.
+ 1/2 cupful of sugar.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of butter.
+ Yolks of 3 eggs.
+ 2-1/4 tablespoonfuls of cornstarch.
+ 1 tablespoonful of flour.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of vanilla.
+ 1/2 saltspoonful of salt.
+
+Put the milk into a double boiler with the salt and a piece of cinnamon
+or lemon-zest. When it is at the boiling-point add the sugar; then the
+cornstarch and flour, which have been moistened in cold milk. Stir until
+thickened; remove, and turn it over the beaten yolks of the eggs. Place
+it on the fire again for a few minutes to set the eggs. Add the butter
+and flavoring, and strain it onto a flat dish, or biscuit-tin, making a
+layer three quarters of an inch thick. Let it stand until perfectly cold
+and firm (it may be made the day before it is used); then cut it into
+pieces three inches long and two inches wide. Handle the pieces
+carefully, using a broad knife-blade. Cover each one with sifted
+cracker-crumbs, then with egg, and again with crumbs; be sure they are
+completely covered. Fry the pieces in hot fat to an amber color; lay
+them on a brown paper in the open oven to dry, sprinkle them with sugar,
+and serve on a folded napkin. The crust should be crisp, and the center
+creamy, the same as a croquette. If the pudding stands long enough
+before being fried, it will not be difficult to handle. Have the fat
+smoking hot, and do not fry too long. This dish is recommended, as it is
+particularly good, and very easy to make.
+
+
+
+SHORT CAKES
+
+
+=STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE=
+
+ 4 cupfuls of sifted flour.
+ 3 heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-powder.
+ 1 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1 teaspoonful of butter.
+ 1 teaspoonful of lard.
+ Milk.
+ 2 quarts of strawberries.
+
+Sift the baking-powder and salt with the flour, rub in the shortening;
+then with a fork stir in lightly and quickly sufficient milk to make a
+soft dough--too soft to roll. Turn it into a greased tin, and bake in a
+hot oven for thirty minutes. Watch to see that it rises evenly. Unmold,
+and leaving it inverted, cut a circle around the top, within one inch of
+the edge; lift off the circle of crust, and with a fork pick out the
+crumb from the center, leaving about three quarters of an inch of
+biscuit around the sides. Spread the inside of the cake with butter, and
+then fill it with crushed strawberries, which have been standing half an
+hour or more mixed with sugar enough to sweeten them. Turn off the juice
+from the berries before filling the cake. Replace the circle of crust,
+and cover the whole cake, top and sides, with meringue, heaping it
+irregularly on the top. Use a pastry-bag if convenient to give the
+meringue ornamental form. Place it in the oven a moment to slightly
+color the meringue. Arrange a few handsome berries on the top. Serve the
+strawberry-juice as a sauce. Whipped cream may be used instead of
+meringue, if convenient. Shortcake, to be good, should be freshly made,
+and served as soon as put together.
+
+
+=CURRANT SHORTCAKE=
+
+Make a biscuit dough as directed for strawberry shortcake above, using
+half the quantity. Turn it into a pie-tin to bake. While it is still hot
+cut the edges and pull it apart with forks (do not cut it). Turn the
+crumb sides up; butter them and cover each one with a thick layer of
+crushed currants, which have been standing at least two hours with
+enough sugar to sweeten them. Place one layer on the other, cover the
+top with meringue, and ornament it with a few currants in lines or
+arranged in any way to suit the fancy. This is a delicious shortcake,
+the acid of the currants giving it more character than strawberry
+shortcake.
+
+
+=STRAWBERRY CAKE=
+
+Make two layers of Genoese (page 467) or of sponge cake No. 1 (page
+466); cover them with whipped cream, and arrange whole strawberries
+close together over the entire top; place one layer on the other, and
+serve at once. The cream moistens the cake if it stands long.
+
+Shortcakes are good made of peaches or pineapple, using the biscuit
+mixture.
+
+
+=ROLY-POLY PUDDING=
+
+Make a biscuit dough, and roll it out a quarter of an inch thick; spread
+it with any kind of berries (whortleberries or blackberries are best).
+Then roll it, and tie it in a cloth, leaving room for the pudding to
+expand, and boil or steam it for an hour. Serve with any sauce.
+
+
+=FRUIT PUDDING=
+
+Beat two eggs; add a cupful of milk, three teaspoonfuls of baking-powder
+and enough flour to make a stiff batter; then stir in as much fruit as
+it will hold (cherries, whortleberries, strawberries, or raspberries are
+the best fruits to use). Turn the mixture into a pudding-mold large
+enough to give room for the pudding to expand, and boil it for an hour.
+Serve with it plain pudding sauce, Sabayon, or a fruit sauce.
+
+
+=BAKED INDIAN PUDDING=
+
+ 1/4 cupful yellow meal.
+ Scant half cupful of molasses.
+ 1/4 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1-1/2 tablespoonfuls of butter.
+ 3 cupfuls of milk.
+ 1 egg.
+ 1/4 cupful of water.
+ Dash of nutmeg.
+
+Put two cupfuls of milk, a quarter cupful of water, and the salt, on the
+fire; when it boils stir in the meal, and let it cook five minutes,
+stirring all the time; then remove from the fire, and add the rest of
+the milk mixed with the molasses, the butter, the beaten egg, and the
+nutmeg (or ginger, if preferred), and turn it into a baking-dish. Bake
+it in a slow oven for three hours. This quantity makes a pint and a half
+of pudding.
+
+NOTE.--Some small bits of candied orange-peel sprinkled on
+the bottom of the dish before the batter is put in give a
+delicious flavor to the pudding.
+
+
+
+PUDDING SAUCES
+
+
+Pudding sauces are quickly made. They call for but few materials, and,
+like other sauces, often give the whole character to the dish. Serving
+the same pudding with a different sauce, makes it a different dish;
+therefore it is well to vary as much as possible the combinations.
+Farina pudding can be served with almost any of the sauces given below.
+Cake, cornstarch, rice, apple, or bread puddings can also be served with
+almost any sauce, if the flavorings are the same, or such as go well
+together. Hot puddings can be served with cold sauces. Jellies, creams,
+and blanc-manges can be served with whipped cream, the fruit sauces, or
+the whipped egg sauces.
+
+Stewed prunes or compote of orange are good to serve with plain boiled
+rice, or with sweetened hominy, farina, or cerealine molded in cups.
+
+
+=PLAIN PUDDING SAUCE No. 1 (Hot)=
+
+ 3/4 cupful of sugar.
+ 2 cupfuls of boiling water.
+ 1 teaspoonful of butter.
+ Zest of lemon.
+ 1 tablespoonful of cornstarch.
+ Flavoring to taste of vanilla or any essence, or brandy, rum, or wine.
+
+Dilute the corn-starch with a little cold water, and stir it into the
+boiling water; add the sugar and stir until the starch becomes clear;
+then add the butter and flavoring. If the sauce becomes too thick,
+dilute it with a little boiling water; the whipped white of one egg may
+be added, but is not essential.
+
+
+=PLAIN PUDDING SAUCE No. 2 (Cold)=
+
+Stir a heaping teaspoonful of corn-starch, which has been moistened with
+a little cold milk, into a pint of boiling milk, and stir for five
+minutes, or until it is well cooked; add three quarters of a cupful of
+sugar, and remove from the fire. When the mixture is cold flavor it, and
+just before serving beat in the whipped whites of two eggs and serve at
+once.
+
+
+=RICH PUDDING SAUCE=
+
+(FOR FRUIT PUDDINGS OR CROQUETTES)
+
+ 3 tablespoonfuls of butter.
+ 3 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar.
+ 2 tablespoonfuls of hot water.
+ 1/2 cupful of sherry.
+ Juice of 1/2 lemon.
+ 2 egg yolks.
+ Dash of nutmeg.
+
+Cream the butter; add the sugar, and cream again thoroughly; then add
+the yolks and beat until light; add the hot water and the nutmeg. Place
+it in a saucepan of hot water, and beat, adding slowly the lemon-juice
+and the wine. The sauce should be foamy.
+
+
+=FOAMY SAUCE=
+
+(STEAMED AND BAKED PUDDINGS)
+
+ 1/2 cupful of butter.
+ 1 cupful of powdered sugar.
+ 1 teaspoonful of vanilla.
+ 1/4 cupful of boiling water.
+ 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry.
+ 1 egg white.
+
+Cream the butter and sugar; add the vanilla and wine, and beat them
+well. Just before serving stir in the boiling water; add the whipped
+white of one egg, and beat until foamy.
+
+
+=BRANDY, RUM, OR KIRSCH SAUCE=
+
+(FRUIT OR PLUM PUDDINGS)
+
+Put in a saucepan two cupfuls of water with one cupful of sugar. When
+the sugar is dissolved and the water boils, add slowly a heaping
+tablespoonful of corn-starch or arrowroot diluted with a little cold
+water; stir until the corn-starch is clear; then remove from the fire,
+and add two tablespoonfuls of the liquor. Serve it hot.
+
+
+=SABAYON No. 1=
+
+ 4 egg-yolks.
+ 4 tablespoonfuls of wine.
+ 4 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar.
+
+Beat in a small saucepan the eggs and sugar to a light cream; add the
+wine. When ready to serve, place the saucepan in another one containing
+hot water, and beat until the sugar is melted and the egg beginning to
+thicken.
+
+
+=SABAYON No. 2=
+
+Put one cup of sugar, one half cup of sherry, and one egg all together
+in a saucepan and whip over the fire until it is a little thickened.
+
+
+=SYRUP SAUCE=
+
+Put two cupfuls of sugar and three tablespoonfuls of water into a
+saucepan on the fire, and stir until the sugar is dissolved; then let it
+boil without touching until it is a light syrup, and remove from the
+fire; add a teaspoonful of butter and flavoring, which may be fruit
+juice, liqueur, brandy, or flavoring extract.
+
+
+=FRUIT SAUCES=
+
+Canned fruits, preserves, or jams make good sauces for blanc-mange,
+corn-starch, rice, or boiled puddings.
+
+The juice of canned fruit, boiled and thickened a little with arrowroot,
+and flavored or not with liqueur or essence, makes a good hot sauce.
+
+
+=APRICOT SAUCE=
+
+Dilute one half cupful of apricot jam with one half cupful of hot water;
+sweeten if necessary; strain and flavor with vanilla or one teaspoonful
+of Madeira or maraschino.
+
+
+=PUREE OF FRUIT SAUCES=
+
+Strawberries, raspberries, peaches and apricots make excellent pudding
+sauces. Mash the fruit and press it through a colander or coarse sieve;
+sweeten to taste; serve hot or cold; if hot, let it come to the
+boiling-point and thicken with arrowroot, using one teaspoonful to a
+cupful of puree.
+
+
+=PINEAPPLE SAUCE=
+
+Chop the pineapple (fresh or canned) fine; sweeten and thicken with
+arrowroot. Serve with fritters, corn-starch, rice, or batter puddings.
+
+
+=BOILED CUSTARD SAUCE=
+
+ Yolks of 2 eggs.
+ 1 cupful of milk.
+ 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar.
+ 1/4 teaspoonful of vanilla.
+
+Beat the yolks and sugar to a cream; pour over them the scalded milk;
+return to the fire to cook the eggs, but let it only slightly thicken;
+remove; add the flavoring and beat with a wire whip to make it light and
+foamy. When served with plum pudding add rum or brandy to flavor it.
+Almonds chopped fine improve it for hot puddings.
+
+
+=CHOCOLATE SAUCE=
+
+Put a half cupful each of sugar and water in a saucepan and let boil
+five minutes. Let the syrup cool, then stir it slowly into four ounces
+of unsweetened chocolate melted; add one half teaspoonful of vanilla.
+Let it stand in a pan of hot water until ready to serve; then add one
+half cupful of cream or of milk.[447-*]
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[447-*] This sauce should be smooth and of the consistency of heavy
+cream. If it is to be used with ice-cream, omit the cream or milk and
+make it of the right consistency with water. See also page 435.--M. R.
+
+
+=BISCHOFF SAUCE=
+
+Put in a saucepan one cupful of white wine, one cupful of hot water, and
+sugar to taste; add the zest of one half of an orange and one half of a
+lemon; let it come to the boiling-point; remove from the fire; take out
+the orange and lemon peel and add one half cupful of seedless raisins,
+one tablespoonful of shredded almonds, and a tablespoonful of finely
+shredded candied orange and lemon peel; cover and let stand a half-hour.
+When ready to serve let it again come to the boiling-point. Serve with
+cabinet puddings.
+
+
+=RICHELIEU SAUCE=
+
+Put one cupful of sugar into a saucepan with one cupful of boiling
+water; let it boil five minutes; add one teaspoonful of arrowroot
+moistened with a little water, and cook until clear; then remove from
+fire. Flavor with one tablespoonful of kirsch and add two tablespoonfuls
+of shredded almonds and candied cherries cut into small pieces.
+
+
+=MERINGUE SAUCE=
+
+Whip the whites of two or three eggs to a very stiff froth. Take as many
+tablespoonfuls of sugar as you have egg-whites; add a little water and
+let it cook to the ball (see page 512), or so that when dropped into
+water it will roll into a ball between the fingers. Turn this hot syrup
+slowly onto the whipped eggs, beating all the time; then beat it over
+the fire for a minute where the heat is moderate. This is called Italian
+meringue. Remove it from the fire and add a little lemon-juice or kirsch
+to take away the excessive sweetness; or a little currant jelly can be
+used, also grated orange-peel and shredded candied peel; serve it at
+once. This is a good sauce for souffles or light puddings.
+
+
+=HARD SAUCE=
+
+Beat together one half cupful of butter and one cupful of sugar until
+they are very white and light; flavor with vanilla, wine, or brandy. The
+success of this sauce depends upon its being beaten a long time. It may
+be varied by beating with it the yolk of an egg, or adding the whipped
+white of an egg after the butter and sugar are beaten. Let it stand on
+ice to harden a little before serving.
+
+
+=STRAWBERRY SAUCE=
+
+Make a hard sauce as directed above; add the whipped white of one egg
+and a cupful of strawberries mashed to a pulp. Any fruit-pulp may be
+added in the same way and makes a good sauce for fruit puddings.
+
+
+=COCOANUT SAUCE=
+
+Make a hard sauce as directed above; add the yolks of two eggs; when it
+is very light and creamy add the whipped whites and a cupful of grated
+cocoanut.
+
+
+=COLD JELLY SAUCE=
+
+Stir a half glassful of grape, currant, or any jelly until smooth; then
+beat into it lightly the whipped whites of two eggs. Serve with any
+light pudding or with jelly.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XX
+
+PIES AND PUFF-PASTE
+
+
+ [Sidenote: Seasons.]
+
+The American pie is perhaps the most ridiculed of all dishes.
+It has, however, great popularity and undoubted merits. Were
+the crust, especially the under one, always right, it would
+remove the most salient point of criticism. The tart pies,
+made with puff-paste, are a temptation to the most fastidious
+taste. The mince pie, probably the most indigestible of all,
+is the one universally accepted as a treat, and seldom refused
+by the scoffer. Pies have their seasons, like other good
+things, the apple pie being the only one served the year
+round. The berries and fruits, each one in their time, make
+most acceptable and delicious pies and tarts, while rhubarb
+introduces the spring, and pumpkin announces the autumn. In
+this day of canned and dried fruits the season need not
+be so strictly observed, but fresh fruits will always be
+preferable to preserved ones, and tradition goes far to hold
+the place for pumpkin pie at Thanksgiving, and mince pie at
+the Christmas feasts.
+
+
+=PIES=
+
+PLAIN PASTRY FOR PIES
+
+ 1 quart of flour.
+ 1 cupful of butter.
+ 1 cupful of cold water.
+ 1 teaspoonful of salt.
+ Or use one-half butter and one half lard or cottolene.
+
+This quantity gives enough for three or four pies. Cottolene makes good
+pastry. The shortening may be mixed, but the flavor is better where
+butter alone is used. The richness of pastry depends upon the amount of
+shortening used.
+
+Sift the salt and flour together, reserving a little flour for the
+board. With a knife, cut the butter into the flour. Add the water a
+little at a time, and mix it in lightly with the knife; turn it onto the
+board, and roll it twice--that is, after it is rolled out once, fold it
+together and roll it again. If the paste is wanted richer for the top
+crust, put bits of butter over the paste when rolled; fold and roll it
+again several times. Fold the paste, and put it in the ice-box for an
+hour before using, keeping it covered. In making pastry everything
+should be cold, the handling light, and the hands used as little as
+possible. Paste will keep several days in a cool place, but should be
+rolled in a napkin, so it will not dry and form a crust.
+
+_To Put a Pie Together._--Roll the paste one eighth inch thick, and a
+little larger than the tin. Dust the pan with flour; place the paste on
+it, letting it shrink all it will. Lift it from the sides to fit it into
+place, and press it as little as possible. Cut a narrow strip of paste,
+and lay around the edge; moisten it so it will stick. Brush the top of
+the bottom crust with white of egg, so the filling will not soak in and
+make it heavy. Put in the filling, and cover with another sheet of
+pastry. Moisten the top of the strip of pastry so the top crust will
+adhere to it; this gives three layers around the edge. Trim and press
+them lightly together. Cut several slits in the top crust to let the
+steam escape in cooking.
+
+A thin piece of paste cut into fancy shape can be placed in the center
+for ornament if desired.
+
+
+=PASTRY FOR TARTS OR OPEN PIES=
+
+ 2 cupfuls of flour.
+ 3/4 cupful of butter.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1 tablespoonful of sugar.
+ Yolks of 2 eggs.
+ Water.
+
+Sift the flour, salt, and sugar together. Cut in the butter as directed
+above. Mix in the beaten yolks, then enough water to make a paste which
+is not very stiff; roll it two or three times, then wrap it in a cloth,
+or cover it closely, and put it in the ice-box for an hour. This gives
+enough paste for four small tart pies like those shown in illustration.
+
+
+=TART PIES=
+
+(APRICOT, PLUM, APPLE, BERRY)
+
+Roll the paste one eighth of an inch thick, lay it on a deep pie-dish;
+let it shrink all it will, and use as little pressure as possible in
+fitting it to the tin. Cut the paste an inch larger than the dish, and
+fold it under, giving a high twisted edge. Prick the paste on the bottom
+in several places with a fork. Lay over it a thin paper, and fill the
+tart with rice, dried peas, beans, cornmeal, or any dry material
+convenient. Brush the edge with egg, and bake it in a moderate oven.
+When done remove the rice, or other filling, and the paper. Brush the
+bottom with white of egg. This will insure a dry under crust. If
+apricots or peaches are to be used, peel and cut them in halves, lay
+them evenly over the tart with the center side up.
+
+Place the half of a blanched almond in each one to represent the pit.
+Put the juice of the fruit into a saucepan on the fire; if there is no
+juice use a cupful of water. Sweeten to taste, and when it boils add to
+each cupful of juice one teaspoonful of arrowroot dissolved in a little
+cold water, and let it cook until clear; then pour it around the fruit,
+but not over it, as the fruit should lie on top and show its form. Place
+in the oven only long enough to cook the fruit tender. If canned fruit
+is used, cook the juice and arrowroot until a little thickened and
+clear; then pour it around the fruit, and let cool. It will not need to
+be put in the oven.
+
+When plums or cherries are used, remove the pits carefully, and place
+the fruit close together, with the whole side up. For apple tarts, cut
+the apples in even quarters or eighths; stew them in sweetened water,
+with a little lemon-juice added, until tender. Lay them overlapping in
+even rows or circles in the tart. To a cupful of water in which the
+apples were stewed add a teaspoonful of arrowroot, and cook until clear;
+pour it over the apples, sprinkle with sugar, nutmeg, and cinnamon. With
+berries, the fruit may be stewed or not before being placed in the tart;
+then strips of paste are laid across it, like lattice-work, and the
+paste brushed with egg. Bake long enough to cook the fruit and the
+strips of paste. When cold place a fresh berry on each piece of crust
+where it crosses; or place a drop of meringue on the crusts, and the
+berries in the openings.
+
+The California canned fruits, costing thirty-five cents, make very good
+pies. One can of fruit will make two pies. Tart-rings are better to use
+than pie-tins, as the sides are straight. Place them on a baking-sheet,
+or tin, before lining them with pastry.
+
+[Illustration: TART RINGS AND CRUSTS.
+
+ 1, 2. Tart Rings.
+ 3. Crust baked in ring No. 1.
+ 4. Crust filled with rice as prepared for baking. (See page 452)]
+
+[Illustration: TART PIES.
+
+ 1. Pie filled with quarters of apples arranged in rows.
+ 2. Pie filled with apricots cut in halves--a blanched
+ almond in the center of each piece. (See page 452.)]
+
+
+=ORANGE PIE=
+
+ Juice and grated yellow rind of 1 orange.
+ 2/3 cupful of milk.
+ 3 eggs.
+ 1 cupful of granulated sugar.
+ 1 tablespoonful of flour.
+ 1/2 saltspoonful of salt.
+
+Beat the yolks and the sugar together; add the flour, the milk, and the
+grated rind and juice of the orange. Place it on the fire in a double
+boiler, and stir until it is a little thickened; then pour it into an
+open or tart pie, and bake thirty minutes. The crust of the pie should
+be brushed with white of egg before adding the thickened mixture. The
+tart crust may be first baked, as directed above, if preferred. Cover
+the top with meringue made with the whites of the eggs and sweetened
+with three tablespoonfuls of sugar. Pile it on irregularly, or press it
+through a pastry-bag into fancy shapes. Place it in the oven a moment to
+brown. A little more flour may be used if the pie is wanted more solid.
+
+
+=A PLAIN APPLE PIE=
+
+Fill a pie with apples sliced thin, using enough to make the pie at
+least an inch thick when done. Add a little water to the apples, and
+cover with a top crust which is a little richer than the under one. This
+is done by rolling out a part of the same paste, covering it with bits
+of butter, folding it together, and rolling it again, repeating the
+operation two or three times. Cut a few slits in the paste to let out
+the steam while cooking. Brush the top with beaten yolk of egg.
+
+When the pie is baked, and while it is still hot, lift off carefully the
+top crust; add sugar, nutmeg, and a little butter, and mix them well
+with the apples. Replace the top crust, and dust it with powdered sugar.
+Apple pies seasoned in this way are better than when seasoned before
+being baked.
+
+
+=PUMPKIN PIE=
+
+Cut a pumpkin into small pieces; remove the soft part and seeds. Cover
+and cook it slowly in its own steam until tender; then remove the cover
+and reduce it almost to dryness, using care that it does not burn. Press
+it through a colander. To two and one half cupfuls of pulp add two
+cupfuls of milk, one teaspoonful each of salt, butter, cinnamon, and
+ginger, one tablespoonful of molasses, two eggs, and sugar to taste. Add
+the beaten eggs last and after the mixture is cold. Pour it into an open
+crust and bake slowly forty to fifty minutes. Squash pies are made in
+the same way, but are not the same in flavor, although they are often
+given the name of pumpkin pies.
+
+
+=MINCE PIE MIXTURE=
+
+ 3 pounds of lean boiled beef chopped fine, or half beef and half
+ boiled tongue.
+ 1-1/2 pounds of suet chopped fine.
+ 3 quarts of apples chopped not very fine.
+ 1 quart of stoned raisins.
+ 2 cupfuls of cleaned currants.
+ 1/4 pound of citron cut into thin slices.
+ 1 cupful of candied orange and lemon peel shredded.
+ 1 teaspoonful each of cloves, allspice and cinnamon.
+ Grated zest and juice of two oranges and two lemons.
+ 2 nutmegs grated.
+ 1 tablespoonful of salt.
+ 1 cupful of molasses.
+ 3 cupfuls or sugar.
+ 3 cupfuls of brandy.
+ 1 cupful of sherry.
+ 1 cupful of cider.
+
+Mix the meat and suet together; then add all the dry ingredients and
+then the liquids. Pack in an earthen jar. It should stand several days
+before using, and will keep an indefinite time.
+
+The pies should be made of good puff paste for the upper crust and tart
+paste for the under one, the edge having three layers as directed on
+page 451. The filling of mince meat should be one and a half inches
+thick. Paint the top crust with egg and trace with a pointed knife some
+simple design on it, cutting the paste very slightly. Bake for one hour
+and a quarter. Glaze the top by sifting a very little powdered sugar
+over it a few minutes before removing it from the oven.
+
+
+=CREAM PIE=
+
+ 3 eggs.
+ 1 cupful of sugar.
+ 1 teaspoonful of baking-powder.
+ 1 cupful of flour.
+
+Sift the flour and baking-powder together; beat the yolks and sugar
+together; add the flour and lastly the whipped whites of the eggs. Bake
+this cake mixture in two layers, and place between them when cold, and
+just before serving, a thick layer of whipped cream. Have the top piece
+covered with a boiled icing, or use between the cakes a cream filling
+made as follows:
+
+CREAM FOR FILLING.
+
+ 2-1/2 cupfuls of milk.
+ 2 tablespoonfuls of flour.
+ 3/4 cupful of sugar.
+ 1 egg.
+ 1 teaspoonful of vanilla.
+
+Scald the milk; turn it onto the beaten egg; return it to the fire; add
+the flour moistened with a little milk, and the sugar, and stir until
+thickened. Let it cool before adding it to the cake. Serve with whipped
+cream if desired.
+
+
+=COCOANUT PIE=
+
+Line a tin basin which is two inches deep with pie paste, and bake it as
+directed for tart pies (page 452). Make a custard of one pint of milk,
+three egg-yolks, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, and two tablespoonfuls
+of corn-starch. Scald the milk and turn it onto the yolks and sugar
+beaten together; return it to the fire; add the corn-starch moistened
+with cold milk, and stir until well thickened; add one half teaspoonful
+of vanilla, and the whites of two eggs whipped to a froth; cook one
+minute to set the egg, then remove, and when nearly cold and stiffened
+stir in the half of a grated cocoanut. Brush the bottom of the baked
+pie-crust with white of egg; cover it with a thin layer of grated
+cocoanut and turn in the thickened custard. Cover the top with meringue
+made with the white of one egg. Return it to the oven one minute to
+color the meringue. Let the pie stand long enough to get firm and cold
+before serving. If the grated cocoanut is not added until the custard
+has stiffened, it will not sink to the bottom.
+
+
+=CRANBERRY PIE=
+
+Chop one cupful of cranberries and a half cupful of seeded raisins
+together into small pieces; add to them a cupful of sugar, a half cupful
+of water, a tablespoonful of flour, and a teaspoonful of vanilla. Bake
+with an upper and under crust. This resembles cherry pie.
+
+
+=WASHINGTON PIE=
+
+Make two round layer cakes, of sponge or of Genoese cake; spread between
+them a layer of pastry cream or of chocolate filling. Dust the top with
+powdered sugar in crossed lines to imitate strips of pastry.
+
+_Pastry Cream_--Boil with a pint of milk or water five tablespoonfuls of
+sugar; add two tablespoonfuls of corn-starch, the yolks of five eggs,
+and a tablespoonful of butter; stir until thickened, add flavoring, and
+when partly cool spread it on the cake.
+
+_Chocolate Filling_--Mix a half cupful of milk and a cupful of sugar,
+and stir until the sugar is dissolved; then add an ounce of shaved
+chocolate, and the beaten yolks of two eggs; stir until it is thickened;
+flavor with one half teaspoonful of vanilla, and let it partly cool
+before spreading it on the cake.
+
+
+
+PUFF-PASTE
+
+
+It is a mistake to consider the making of puff-paste too difficult for
+any but an experienced cook to undertake. No one need hesitate to
+attempt it, and if the few simple rules are strictly observed there will
+be success. The materials are few and inexpensive, and within the
+compass of the most moderate household. If light, good pastry can be
+substituted for the sodden crust of the ordinary pie, it will be found
+not only more palatable, but far more digestible and wholesome.
+Confections of puff-paste can be served on all occasions, and always
+make an acceptable dish, whereas ordinary pastry is excluded from any
+but the most informal service.
+
+
+=GENERAL RULES=
+
+The most important rule for making puff-paste, and the secret of
+success, is to have cold paste and a hot oven. It is well to have a
+marble slab to roll it on, but this is not positively essential. A
+warm, damp day should be avoided. The paste will keep on ice for a day
+or two before it is baked, and for several days in a dry place after it
+is baked, and if placed in the oven for a few moments just before
+serving, it will have the same crispness as when just baked. If there is
+no room colder than the kitchen to work in when mixing the paste, stand
+by an open window or in a current of air, for it is necessary to keep
+the paste cold during the whole time of preparing it. Use pastry flour
+if convenient (Plant's St. Louis Flour). It can be obtained at all
+first-class grocers. It has a very fine grain, and can easily be
+distinguished from ordinary flour by rubbing a little between the thumb
+and forefinger.
+
+
+=RECEIPT FOR PUFF-PASTE=
+
+ 1/2 pound or 1 cupful of butter.
+ 1/2 pound or 2 cupfuls of flour.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of salt.
+ 1/4 to 1/2 cupful of ice-water.
+
+1st. Put the butter in a bowl of ice-water, and work it with the hand
+until it becomes smooth and flexible; then place it in a napkin and
+knead it a little to free it from moisture. Pat it into a flat square
+cake, and place it on the ice until ready to use.
+
+2d. Sift the flour and salt together on a board or marble slab; reserve
+a little flour to be used for dusting the slab. Make a well in the
+center, and pour in a part of the water. Work in the flour, and use
+enough water to make a smooth paste. The exact amount of water cannot be
+given, as at certain times the flour absorbs more than at others. Gather
+in all the crumbs, and work the paste as you would bread dough until it
+becomes smooth. Roll it in a napkin, and place it on ice for fifteen
+minutes, that it may become thoroughly cold.
+
+[Illustration: THREE PANS ARRANGED FOR CHILLING PUFF PASTE--THE UPPER
+AND UNDER ONES HOLDING CRACKED ICE, THE CENTER ONE HOLDING THE PASTE
+WRAPPED IN A NAPKIN.]
+
+3d. Sprinkle the slab lightly with flour. Roll the cold paste into a
+square piece; place the cold butter in the center, and fold the paste
+over it, first from the sides and then the ends, keeping the shape
+square, and folding so the butter is completely incased, and cannot
+escape through the folds when rolled. This must be absolutely guarded
+against at all times, and can be prevented if the paste is rolled evenly
+and folded properly. Turn the folded side down, and with a rolling-pin
+roll it lightly away from you into a long, narrow strip, keeping it as
+even as possible. Fold it over, making three even layers of paste. This
+is called "giving it one turn"; then roll the folded strip again, and
+fold as before. This must be repeated until it has had six turns, which
+is as many as it should receive to give it its greatest lightness. After
+each turn, if it shows signs of softening, otherwise after each two
+turns, wrap the paste in a napkin, and place it in a pan, which should
+be placed between two other pans containing cracked ice, and let it
+remain there twenty to thirty minutes. Great care must be used in
+rolling the paste to keep the edges even, so that the layers will be
+even, and to roll lightly and always away from you, so as not to break
+the air-bubbles which give the lightness to the paste. The rolling is
+made easier by lightly pounding as well as rolling the paste. After each
+folding press the edges gently with the rolling-pin to shut in the air,
+and turn the paste so as to roll in a different direction. The paste
+should slip on the slab. If it does not, it sticks, and must be put on
+the ice at once. When it has had six turns cut it into the desired
+forms, and place again on the ice for twenty to thirty minutes before
+putting it in the oven. The trimmings, put together and rolled, make a
+good bottom crust for tart bands, or a top crust for mince pies.
+
+The baking of puff-paste is as important a matter as the rolling. The
+oven must be very hot, with the greatest heat at the bottom, so the
+paste may rise before it begins to brown; therefore put it on the bottom
+of the oven and lay a paper on the shelf for a few minutes. Do not open
+the door for the first five minutes. It is essential to have the oven
+very hot. It must not, however, scorch the paste, and if it scorches
+open the draughts at once, and place a basin of ice-water in the oven to
+lower the temperature. The amount given in this receipt makes about six
+pate shells or one vol-au-vent case.
+
+
+=PATE SHELLS=
+
+Roll puff-paste which has had six turns to a quarter-inch thickness; cut
+it into circles with a fluted or plain cutter two and a quarter inches
+in diameter. It should be icy-cold when cut, for if it sticks on one
+side it will not rise evenly. From one half the circles cut a hole in
+the center with a cutter one inch in diameter. Moisten the edges of the
+whole circles, and place on them the rings. Brush over the top with egg.
+(This is to glaze them, and the egg must not touch the edges.) Place
+them on the ice for half an hour, then bake in hot oven for twenty
+minutes. Bake the small circles cut from the center on a separate tin,
+as they do not require as much time; when baked pick out from the center
+any uncooked paste. Use the small pieces for covers after the cases are
+filled. If preferred, roll the paste one half inch thick, and with the
+small cutter cut half-way through the paste. When baked lift off the
+inner circle, and remove the uncooked paste from the interior.
+
+[Illustration: PATE SHELLS.]
+
+
+=TART BANDS=
+
+Make a good short paste, using the receipt for tart paste. Roll it one
+eighth inch thick, and cut it into a circle six inches in diameter,
+using a basin for guide. Wet the edges and lay around it a band of
+puff-paste cut in a strip one and one half inches wide and one quarter
+inch thick. Place the strip neatly and carefully around the edge, using
+care not to press it; cut the edges that are to join in a sharp diagonal
+line, and moisten them so they will adhere. Prick the bottom crust in
+many places with a fork to prevent its puffing up; brush the top of the
+band with egg, but do not let the egg touch the edges; let it rest on
+ice for half an hour, then bake in hot oven thirty to forty minutes.
+
+When ready to serve fill it with jam, preserves, puree, or any other
+mixture used for tart pies.
+
+These tarts are very good, and can be served where pies would not be
+admissible.
+
+
+=MILLEFEUILLES=
+
+Roll puff-paste turned six times to the thickness of one half inch; cut
+it with a pastry wheel into pieces three inches long and one inch wide.
+Brush the tops of the pieces with egg, and sprinkle them with sugar. Let
+them stand on ice one half hour, and then bake in a hot oven for twenty
+minutes, or until well browned; these are served in place of cakes. Or,
+cut the paste three and a half inches long and two inches wide, and when
+baked place two pieces together with a thin layer of apricot jam between
+them, and cover the top with meringue. These are served as a dessert
+dish for luncheon.
+
+
+=TARTLETS=
+
+Cut puff-paste into rings the same as for pate shells. Use tart paste
+for the under crust. After they are baked fill the center with
+pineapple, with any preserves, or with apple puree covered with apricot
+jam.
+
+
+=PAGANINI TARTLETS=
+
+Roll puff-paste one eighth inch thick; cut it with a pastry wheel into
+squares of three and a half to four inches. Turn the points together in
+the middle, and press them down lightly. Bake; then put a spoonful of
+jam in the center of each, and cover the jam with meringue; place them
+in the oven a moment to brown.
+
+
+=TO GLAZE PASTRY=
+
+Take an egg and one tablespoonful of water, and beat the egg enough to
+break it, but not enough to make it froth. The yolk alone may be used
+with the water, but the white alone will not give it color. Brush it
+lightly over the pastry, using a brush or quill-feather, and dust it
+with a very little sugar. This will give a brown and polished surface to
+the pastry.
+
+When two layers of pastry are to be stuck together, brush the top of one
+with water, and lay the other on it before baking them.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI
+
+CAKE
+
+
+ [Sidenote: Baking.]
+
+The most difficult part of cake-making is the baking. Unless
+the oven is right, the cake will be a failure, no matter how
+carefully it may have been mixed.
+
+
+RULES
+
+Have everything ready before beginning to mix the cake.
+
+Have the weights and measures exact.
+
+ [Sidenote: Fire.]
+
+Have the fire so it will last through the baking, and the
+heat of the oven just right (see below), for on this the
+success of the cake mostly depends.
+
+Do not mix the cake until the oven is entirely ready for it
+to go in.
+
+Sift the flour before measuring it.
+
+If baking-powder or cream of tartar is used, sift it with
+the flour.
+
+Mix in an earthen bowl with a wooden spoon.
+
+Beat the yolks and whites of the eggs separately.
+
+Grease the tins with lard, as butter blackens.
+
+For some cakes it is better to line the pans with paper.
+
+ [Sidenote: Fruit.]
+
+When fruit is used, roll it in flour, and add it the last
+thing.
+
+If the fruit is wanted in layers, add it while the mixture
+is being poured into the tins.
+
+ [Sidenote: Salt.]
+
+Add one quarter teaspoonful of salt to all cakes.
+
+ [Sidenote: Sugary crust.]
+
+If a sugary crust is wanted, sprinkle the top with sugar
+before the cake is baked.
+
+ [Sidenote: Cause of cracking.]
+
+If the cake cracks open as it rises, too much flour has been
+used.
+
+ [Sidenote: Uneven rising.]
+
+If it rises in a cone in the center, the oven is too hot.
+
+ [Sidenote: Beating.]
+
+Beating eggs and butter makes them light, beating flour
+makes it tough; hence the rule to add it last.
+
+ [Sidenote: Adding white of egg.]
+
+When the whipped whites are added do not stir, but turn or
+fold them in lightly, so as not to break the air-cells.
+
+ [Sidenote: Pans, how filled.]
+
+In filling the pans let the mixture be a little higher on
+the sides than in the middle.
+
+ [Sidenote: Soda and baking powder.]
+
+When molasses is used, baking-powder (also cream of tartar)
+must be omitted, and soda alone used for raising the cake.
+
+ [Sidenote: Equivalents.]
+
+One teaspoonful of baking-powder is the equivalent of one
+teaspoonful of cream of tartar, and one half teaspoonful of
+soda.
+
+
+HOW TO BEAT EGGS
+
+ [Sidenote: Whites.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Yolks.]
+
+Place the whites on a flat dish, being careful that not a
+particle of the yolk gets in. Add a pinch of salt, and with
+a daisy beater held flat whip the whites with an upward
+motion to a stiff, dry froth. It will take but a very few
+minutes if the eggs are fresh and cold. Put the yolks in an
+earthen bowl, and with a wooden or silver spoon beat them
+until a lemon color. If sugar is used add it at this time,
+and stir until the whole becomes light and creamy.
+
+
+HOW TO LINE TINS WITH PAPER
+
+Turn the tin bottom side up, lay over it the paper, and
+crease the circle for the bottom. Cut the paper in several
+places down to the circular mark, fold it around the pan,
+and cut away the paper that doubles over. Grease the paper,
+and fit it neatly inside the pan, leaving an inch of paper
+rising above the edge.
+
+[Illustration: CAKE TINS AND BAKING SHEET.]
+
+
+HOW TO GREASE PANS
+
+ [Sidenote: Flouring tins.]
+
+Warm the pan, and with a brush spread evenly the lard or
+cottolene. For flat tins to be used for small cakes, brush
+them lightly with oil; then with a paper or cloth rub them
+dry, and sprinkle with flour. Jar them so the flour will
+completely cover them; then turn over the tins, and strike
+them against the table. All the superfluous flour will fall,
+leaving the tins lightly coated with flour. This will give a
+clean surface to the bottom of the cake.
+
+
+HOW TO BAKE CAKE
+
+ [Sidenote: Rising.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Time.]
+
+The oven should be only moderately hot at first, so that the
+cake can get heated through, and can rise before forming a
+crust; the heat should then be increased, so that when the
+cake has been in the oven one half the time required for
+baking a light crust will be formed. It should rise evenly,
+and be smooth on top. When it rises in a cone in the center
+it is because the oven is too hot, and a crust has formed on
+the edges before it has had time to rise. Sometimes it rises
+on one side, showing the oven is hotter on one side than
+the other, in which case it should be turned or a screen
+interposed; but it must be done with the greatest care. Moving
+or jarring the cake before the air-cells are fixed is almost
+sure to cause it to fall. Do not open the oven door for the
+first five minutes, and then open and shut it very gently,
+so as not to jar the cake. Cake takes from fifteen minutes
+to an hour to bake, according to its kind and thickness. A
+hotter oven is needed for a thin cake than for a thick one.
+It is done when it shrinks from the pan, and makes no singing
+noise; or when a broom straw run into it comes out clean and
+smooth. Be sure the cake is done before removing it from the
+oven. Let it stand a few minutes in the tin, and it will then
+come out easily. Always handle the cake carefully.
+
+ [Sidenote: Tests for the oven.]
+
+The following test for the oven is given by Miss Parloa. Put
+in a piece of white paper. If at the end of five minutes
+the paper is a rich yellow color, the oven is right for
+sponge-cake; if light yellow, it is too cool; if dark brown,
+too hot. For pound or butter-cakes, it should be light yellow
+at the end of five minutes. For gingerbreads and thin rolled
+cakes, it should be dark brown.
+
+
+MIXING SPONGE-CAKES
+
+Cream the yolks and sugar together. Add the flavoring and
+water; then fold in the beaten whites, and lastly the flour,
+sprinkling it in, and lightly folding, not stirring it in.
+If baking-powder is used, it is mixed with the flour.
+
+
+MIXING CAKE MADE WITH BUTTER
+
+Rub the butter until it is light and smooth. Add the sugar,
+and stir until creamy. If there is too much sugar to mix
+with the butter, beat one half with the yolks of the eggs.
+Add the beaten yolks to the creamed butter and sugar. (If
+only a little butter is used melt it, and add it to the
+yolks and sugar.) Next add the flavoring, and then the milk
+and flour alternately, until all are in. Beat the batter a
+few minutes to give it fine grain; then fold in the whipped
+whites of the eggs lightly. If fruit is used, flour and add
+it the last thing. Turn it into the pans, and put it at once
+into a moderate oven.[465-*]
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[465-*] Cake made with butter needs to have the dough quite thick with
+flour, as the butter when melted acts as a wetting.
+
+
+=SPONGE-CAKE No. 1=
+
+ 6 eggs.
+ 3 cupfuls of sugar.
+ 4 cupfuls of flour.
+ 1 cupful of cold water.
+ 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder.
+ Juice and grated rind of 1 lemon.
+ 1/4 teaspoonful of salt.
+
+In this cake the beaten whites are added last. The baking-powder mixed
+with the flour is added to the yolks, sugar, and flavoring. This is a
+good cake to use for layer-cakes or rolls. It is sufficient for two
+loaves.
+
+
+=SPONGE-CAKE No. 2=
+
+Weigh any number of eggs; take the same weight of sugar and one half the
+weight of flour; the grated rind and juice of one lemon to five eggs.
+For mixing this cake, see the directions given above; the mixture should
+be very light and spongy, great care being used not to break down the
+whipped whites. The oven should be moderate at first, and the heat
+increased after a time. The cake must not be moved or jarred while
+baking. The time will be forty to fifty minutes, according to size of
+loaf. Use powdered sugar for sponge-cake. Rose-water makes a good
+flavoring when a change from lemon is wanted. Almonds chopped fine mixed
+in the cake, and also orange rind grated over the cake before it is
+frosted, are good.
+
+
+=SPONGE-CAKE No. 3=
+
+ 10 eggs.
+ 1 pound of powdered sugar.
+ 1/2 pound of flour.
+ Juice and grated rind of 1/2 lemon.
+
+Beat the yolks and sugar together for at least half an hour. It will not
+be right unless thoroughly beaten; add the lemon, then the whites beaten
+very stiff, and the flour last; sprinkle the top with sugar. Put it at
+once into a moderate oven. This is a moist cake and has a thick crust.
+
+
+=WHITE SPONGE, OR ANGEL CAKE=
+
+ Whites of 6 eggs.
+ 3/4 cupful of granulated sugar.
+ 1 cupful of flour.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of vanilla.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of cream of tartar.
+
+Put the cream of tartar into the flour and sift it five or six times;
+sift the sugar twice. Put a pinch of salt with the whites of the eggs
+and whip them very stiff; add the sugar to the whipped whites, placing
+it on the end of the platter and gradually beating it in from below; add
+the flour in the same way, and lastly add the flavoring. Do not stop
+beating after the mixing is begun, and keep the mixture light. Bake it
+in a perfectly bright ungreased pan, or one lined with paper; a pan with
+a tube in the center is best. Bake in a moderate oven thirty to forty
+minutes. Do not move or jar it while it is baking. Try it with a
+broom-straw before removing it from the oven, and do not let it get too
+deeply colored. Let it stand in the pan a few minutes, then loosen it
+around the sides, and it will fall out. Turn the cake upside down and
+ice the bottom and sides if desired. The usual receipt is double the
+above quantities, eleven eggs being used, but this one gives a cake
+large enough to serve six people, and as it should be used while it is
+very fresh, it is better not to make more than enough to serve once. It
+can be made with five eggs and is very good, but not quite as spongy. Do
+not cut the cake, but break it apart with two forks.[467-*]
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[467-*] If baked too fast this cake will be tough. It is well to set the
+cake-pan in a pan of water in the oven.
+
+
+=SUNSHINE CAKE=
+
+Make the same as angel cake, adding the beaten yolks of two eggs before
+putting in the flour.
+
+
+=GENOESE CAKE=
+
+Three eggs, and the same weight of butter, of sugar, and of flour. Beat
+the butter and sugar together until very light and creamy; add one
+saltspoonful of salt and flavoring (one half teaspoonful of vanilla or
+almond, or one tablespoonful of brandy); then add the eggs one at a
+time and beat each one well before adding the next. Beat the mixture for
+fifteen to twenty minutes; then stir in lightly the sifted flour and
+turn it into a pan, filling it three quarters full. This cake can be
+used for layers, rolls, canary pudding, or can be cut into small forms
+for fancy cakes. Bake slowly about forty minutes.
+
+
+=JELLY ROLLS=
+
+Make a layer of Genoese, or of sponge-cake No. 1. Put the mixture on the
+layer tins in spoonfuls, placing it around the edges; then with a broad
+knife smooth it over toward the middle, making it as even as possible.
+Another way is to press it through a pastry bag in lines onto the tins.
+The layers should be only one half inch thick when baked, and the crust
+should not be hard. As soon as it is removed from the oven, and before
+it has had time to cool, cut off the hard edges, spread it with currant,
+or any jelly or jam, and roll it up evenly; then roll it in a paper and
+tie, so it will cool in a round, even shape.
+
+
+=LAYER CAKES: CHOCOLATE, VANILLA, COFFEE=
+
+Bake Genoese or sponge-cake No. 1 (one half the receipt will give three
+layers) in round layer tins, using three for each cake; when baked
+spread two of them with filling and pile them one on the other. Trim the
+outside with a sharp knife so it will show a white even edge instead of
+crust. Cover the top with a soft royal icing made of confectioners'
+sugar and flavored the same as the filling.
+
+
+=CREAM FILLING=
+
+Beat well together the yolks of five eggs, one half cupful of sugar, and
+one heaping tablespoonful of cornstarch; dilute it with two cupfuls of
+boiling milk, and stir it over the fire until thickened; then remove,
+add the flavoring, and let it cool. If coffee flavoring is wanted, use
+one half black coffee and one half milk. If chocolate, melt three or
+four ounces and add it to the custard.
+
+
+=CHOCOLATE FILLING=
+
+Melt four ounces of chocolate; dilute it with three tablespoonfuls of
+milk, and then add a cupful of sugar mixed with a well-beaten egg, and
+stir until thickened.
+
+
+=ORANGE CAKE=
+
+ Whites of 9 eggs.
+ 2 cupfuls of granulated sugar.
+ 3 heaping cupfuls of flour sifted three or four times.
+ 1 cupful of butter.
+ 1 cupful of milk.
+ 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder.
+ 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice.
+
+Cream the butter; add the sugar, and beat for ten minutes; add the milk,
+and then add alternately the whipped eggs and the flour, the
+baking-powder having been sifted with the flour; add the lemon-juice
+last, and mix all lightly. Bake in layer tins; spread the layers with
+orange filling and frost the top with royal icing flavored with
+orange-juice and a little lemon.
+
+
+=ORANGE FILLING=
+
+Beat the whites of two eggs to a stiff froth. Boil one and one quarter
+cupfuls of sugar with one half cupful of water to the small ball (see
+page 512). Pour the boiling sugar in a very fine stream onto the whipped
+whites, beating hard all the time. Add the grated rind and juice of one
+orange and continue to beat until it is cold and the sugar is stiffened
+enough to place between the cakes without running.
+
+
+=PISTACHIO CAKE=
+
+Make three layers of cake after the receipt given for orange cake. Make
+a cream filling as directed for layer cakes. Flavor it with
+orange-flower water and a little bitter almond, to give the flavor of
+pistachio (see page 391), and color it a delicate green. Frost the top
+with a soft royal icing (page 484) made of confectioners' sugar; color
+it a delicate light green and sprinkle the top with chopped pistachio
+nuts. This cake is rather soft and creamy, and should not be cut before
+going on the table.
+
+
+=PLAIN CUP CAKE=
+
+ 1/2 cupful of butter.
+ 1-1/2 cupfuls of sugar.
+ 1 cupful of water or milk.
+ 3 cupfuls of flour.
+ 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder.
+ 4 eggs.
+ Juice and rind of 1 lemon.
+
+Beat the butter and sugar to a cream; add the beaten yolks; then add
+slowly the water and three quarters of the flour. Beat it a long time
+until very smooth and light; then add the lemon and the rest of the
+flour in which the baking-powder is mixed; beat well together, and
+lastly add the whipped whites of the eggs. Bake in gem-pans, putting a
+tablespoonful of the mixture into each pan. Raisins may be added to this
+cake, or two ounces of melted chocolate may be used instead of the
+lemon-juice, making it chocolate cake; or it may be made into spice
+cakes by using two tablespoonfuls of molasses with enough water to give
+one cupful of liquid; add also one half teaspoonful each of ground
+cloves, cinnamon, and allspice, and a few currants if desired; use one
+teaspoonful of soda instead of the baking-powder if molasses is used.
+Bake in a moderate oven about one half hour, and see that the cakes rise
+evenly and are of the same size. Turn them out of the pans bottom side
+up, and frost the bottom and sides with royal icing while they are still
+warm. For chocolate or spice cakes, use chocolate icing.
+
+[Illustration: PLAIN CUP CAKES ICED AND SMALL PIECE OF ANGELICA PLACED
+IN CENTER OF EACH CAKE.]
+
+
+=GOLD-AND-SILVER CAKE=
+
+Use the receipt given for plain cup cake. Divide the materials; use the
+whites of the eggs with one part, the yolks and one whole egg with the
+other. Bake in separate tins; cut before serving; arrange the slices
+with the two colors alternating on a lace paper.
+
+
+=MARBLE CAKE=
+
+Make a mixture as directed for plain cup cake; divide it into three
+parts; color one with carmine, another with melted chocolate (one
+ounce), and leave the third one white. Do this quickly, so the
+baking-powder will not lose its force before going into the oven. Pour
+the mixtures into a tin, alternating the colors twice; they will run
+together and make a mottled cake.
+
+
+=RICHER CUP; OR, 1, 2, 3, 4 CAKE=
+
+Use one cup of butter, two of sugar, three of flour, and four eggs, and
+one half teaspoonful of vanilla. Mix as directed for butter-cake
+mixtures (page 465).
+
+
+=POUND-CAKE=
+
+Use one pound each of butter, sugar, and flour; ten eggs; one quarter
+teaspoonful of mace and one half cupful of brandy. Mix as directed for
+butter-cake mixtures. Divide it into two loaves and bake in tins lined
+with paper forty to fifty minutes in a moderate oven. This cake may be
+filled with sliced citron and raisins if desired, or may have nuts mixed
+with it, making a nut cake, or some nuts may be sprinkled over the top
+before it goes in the oven.
+
+
+=WHITE CAKE=
+
+ Whites of 6 eggs.
+ 3/4 cupful of butter.
+ 1-1/4 cupfuls of powdered sugar.
+ 2 cupfuls of flour.
+ Juice of half a lemon.
+ 1/4 teaspoonful of soda.
+
+Sift the soda with the flour three times; cream the butter and add the
+flour to it; whip the eggs to a stiff froth and add the sugar, then beat
+them gradually into the butter and flour, and add the lemon-juice. When
+it is thoroughly mixed and smooth put it into a biscuit or flat tin, so
+it will make a layer one and a half inches thick when done. Bake it in a
+moderate oven; while it is still warm spread it with royal icing (see
+page 483). Before the icing fully hardens, mark two lines down the
+length of the cake, dividing it into three sections, then across in even
+lines, giving slices one inch broad and about two and a half inches
+long; to do this hold over it a straight edge and mark it with the back
+of a knife. Put into a pastry bag some of the frosting, made a little
+stiffer with sugar, and place two dots of icing on each slice. This
+cake may be made with baking-powder, using one teaspoonful and mixing it
+in the usual way. It will then be a lighter cake and should be baked in
+a loaf; the first gives a firm, fine-grained cake.
+
+
+=PLAIN FRUIT CAKE=
+
+ 1 {3/4 cupful of butter. }
+ {2 cupfuls of granulated sugar. } Cream these together well.
+
+ 2 {3 eggs.
+
+ {1 teaspoonful of allspice.
+ 3 {1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg.
+ {1/3 teaspoonful of ground cloves.
+ {1/4 teaspoonful of ground mace.
+
+ 4 {1 cupful of milk with 3/4 teaspoonful of soda dissolved in it.
+
+ 5 {3 cupfuls of sifted flour with 1 teaspoonful of cream of tartar
+ mixed in it.
+
+ 6 {1 cupful of sliced citron.
+ {2 cupfuls of raisins.
+
+Mix the materials in the order given, beating well each one before the
+next is added; add part of the flour and the milk at the same time, then
+the rest of the flour. Flour the fruit and add it last. More fruit can
+be used if desired. This will make one large or a dozen small cakes.
+Bake in a moderate oven about one hour if in one cake.
+
+
+=BROD TORTE=
+
+ 9 eggs.
+ 2-1/2 cupfuls of sugar.
+ 2 cupfuls of bread-crumbs--Graham preferred.
+ 2 teaspoonfuls of ground cinnamon.
+ Citron size of small egg.
+ 3/4 cupful of blanched almonds.
+ Grated rind of one lemon.
+ 1/4 cupful of brandy or rum.
+ 2-1/2 ounces of chocolate.
+ 1 teaspoonful of ground allspice.
+
+Put into a bowl the bread-crumbs, dried and pounded fine, the citron and
+almonds both chopped fine, the spices and lemon-rind and the
+chocolate grated fine; mix them thoroughly and evenly together. In a
+second bowl put the yolks of the nine eggs and whites of five with one
+and one half cupfuls of sugar. Beat them until quite stiff. In a third
+bowl put the whites of four eggs; beat them to a stiff froth; then stir
+in the remaining cupful of sugar. Now gradually and lightly mix the dry
+ingredients of bowl No. 1 with No. 2; then add the whites from No. 3.
+Lastly, add the brandy or rum, and quickly put it into the oven to bake
+for three quarters of an hour. Cover with chocolate icing, and decorate
+with lines of white icing.
+
+[Illustration: ICED CAKE DECORATED WITH CANDIED CHERRIES CUT IN HALVES,
+ANGELICA CUT INTO TRIANGULAR PIECES, AND A SCALLOPED LINE OF ICING.]
+
+[Illustration: CAKE COVERED WITH CHOCOLATE ICING AND ORNAMENTED IN
+CENTER WITH LINES OF WHITE ICING.]
+
+[Illustration: CAKE ORNAMENTED WITH A MEDALLION IN CENTER FORMED BY A
+RING OF CANDIED PLUMS CUT IN QUARTERS AND STOOD ON EDGE. THE CENTER OF
+THE CIRCLE IS COVERED WITH BOILED ICING AND DECORATED WITH CANDIED
+CHERRIES AND ANGELICA. THE CAKE OUTSIDE THE MEDALLION IS BRUSHED WITH
+WHITE OF EGG AND THEN COVERED WITH BLANCHED ALMONDS CUT IN THIN SLICES.]
+
+
+=FRUIT CAKE=
+
+ 1 pound of flour.
+ 1 pound of sugar.
+ 1 pound of butter.
+ 1/2 pound of candied citron (sliced).
+ 4 pounds of currants.
+ 4 pounds of raisins (stoned and chopped).
+ 9 eggs.
+ 1 tablespoonful of ground cinnamon.
+ 1 tablespoonful of mace.
+ 1 tablespoonful of nutmeg.
+ 3 gills of brandy.
+
+Mix the fruit together and flour it; mix the spices with the sugar.
+Cream the butter and sugar; add the beaten yolks, then the whipped
+whites and the brandy, then the flour, and lastly the fruit. Put the
+mixture in two large tins lined with double paper, and bake in a
+moderate oven for three hours. If preferred, add the sliced citron in
+layers as the mixture is poured into the pans. One pound of chopped
+almonds may be substituted for one of the pounds of currants. This cake
+will keep any length of time, therefore the quantity may not be too
+great to make at one time.
+
+
+
+CREAM CAKES AND ECLAIRS
+
+
+These are made of cooked paste, and are very easy to prepare. The cream
+cakes differ from the eclairs only in form and in not being iced.
+
+
+=CREAM CAKES=
+
+ 1 cupful of water.
+ 1 tablespoonful of sugar.
+ 2 tablespoonfuls of butter.
+ 1-1/2 cupfuls of flour (pastry flour preferred).
+ 3 to 4 eggs.
+ 1/2 saltspoonful of salt.
+
+Put the water, sugar, salt, and butter in a saucepan on the fire. When
+the butter is melted remove; add to it the flour, and beat until it is a
+smooth paste; return it to the fire, and stir vigorously until the paste
+leaves the sides of the pan; then remove; let it partly cool, and then
+add the eggs, one at a time, beating each one for some time before
+adding the next. When all are in, beat until the batter is no longer
+stringy. It should be consistent enough to hold its shape without
+spreading when dropped from the spoon on a tin. Three eggs make it about
+right unless they are very small or the flour very dry. The batter is
+better if it stands for an hour or two before being used; but this is
+not essential. Put the mixture into a pastry-bag with a tube of one half
+inch opening; press the batter through into balls one and a half to two
+inches in diameter. A spoon can be used, but does not give the cakes as
+good shape. Brush the tops with egg. Put them in a slack oven and bake
+slowly for about forty minutes. They will feel light when done, and be
+puffed very high. Oil and flour the pans or baking-sheets as directed on
+page 464. When the puffs are cool make an incision in the side and fill
+with cream filling as given for layer cakes, page 468. The whipped
+whites of the eggs may be added to this filling if it is wanted thinner
+and lighter.
+
+These cakes are good made very small, filled with jam and a little
+whipped cream, and the tops dipped in sugar boiled to the crack, then
+sprinkled with chopped burnt almonds.
+
+
+=CHOCOLATE, VANILLA, AND COFFEE ECLAIRS=
+
+Make a mixture as for cream cakes; put it into a pastry-bag with a tube
+of three eighth inch opening. Press the batter onto tins (floured as
+directed for cream cakes) in strips three and one half inches long, and
+a little distance apart, the same as lady-fingers. Egg the tops and bake
+in a slack oven about thirty minutes. Cut open one side and fill with
+cream filling made the same as for cream cakes. Make a chocolate icing
+No. 2 (page 485); dip the eclairs into it, covering them one half. For
+vanilla or coffee eclairs use fondant icing, page 485. Flavor the
+filling with vanilla or coffee, the same as the icing.
+
+
+=CAROLINES=
+
+Make small eclairs two inches long, using a tube with opening no larger
+than a pencil. When baked run a wooden skewer through them, leaving an
+opening at each end, so the filling will go all the way through. Put the
+filling in a bag, and press it through the carolines. Cover the top with
+fondant icing. Have the filling flavored with coffee.
+
+
+
+FANCY SMALL CAKES
+
+
+=MERINGUES AND KISSES=
+
+Add a half saltspoonful of salt to the whites of three eggs; beat them,
+and add gradually, while whipping, three quarters of a cupful of
+powdered sugar. Continue to beat until the mixture is smooth and firm
+enough to hold its shape without spreading when dropped in a ball; add
+the flavoring of lemon-juice or any essence. Place the meringue in a
+pastry-bag and press it through a tube into balls of the size desired
+onto strips of paper laid on a board that will fit the oven. With a wet
+knife flatten down the point on top left by the tube, and sprinkle them
+with sugar. Put them into a very slack oven, and let them dry for at
+least an hour; then remove from the papers and either press in the
+bottoms or scoop out the soft center and turn them over to dry inside.
+If small kisses, it is better to give them plenty of time to dry, so
+none of the center has to be taken out. They can be removed to the warm
+shelf if the oven is giving them too much color. They should be only
+slightly colored on top and dried all the way through. For large
+meringues to be filled with cream, use one and a half tablespoonfuls of
+meringue for each piece. Make them an oblong shape. Place them in an
+oven hot enough for cake and watch them closely until they have formed a
+light-colored crust; then remove and take out the soft center or press
+in the bottom, and turn them over to dry inside. These meringues may be
+dried like the kisses, but take longer time, as they are larger. When a
+board is not at hand the papers holding the meringues may be laid in
+biscuit-tins, a second tin placed like a cover over the top, and set on
+the shelf over the range for several hours. This serves very well where
+the fire is too great for the ovens to be cool. There is no difficulty
+in making meringues if the eggs are sufficiently whipped. They soon
+become stiff when whipped after the sugar is in. They must be dried
+rather than baked. If the meringues stick to the paper turn them over,
+slightly moisten the paper, and it will soon come off. Make kisses small
+and stick two together with white of egg. When very small they are good
+with a little jam or jelly between them. Large meringues can be filled
+with ice-cream or with whipped cream just before serving them, and two
+placed together.
+
+One quarter cupful of powdered sugar is needed for the white of each
+egg.
+
+[Illustration: 1. SMALL KISSES. (SEE PAGE 475.)
+
+2. MADELEINES--ROUND, SQUARE, DIAMOND-SHAPED, AND CRESCENTS, EACH ONE
+ICED AND GARNISHED WITH PIECE OF ANGELICA CUT THE SAME SHAPE AS THE
+CAKE. (SEE PAGE 477.)]
+
+
+=LADY-FINGERS=
+
+ 6 eggs.
+ 1/2 pound or 1-1/4 cupfuls of powdered sugar.
+ 1/4 pound or 1 cupful of sifted flour.
+ 1/2 saltspoonful of salt.
+
+ Flavoring of vanilla, lemon, or orange-flower water.
+
+Beat the yolks and sugar to a light cream; add the flavoring. Stir in
+lightly the flour and then the whites of the eggs whipped very firm; the
+salt is added to the whites before being whipped. Have a sheet of paper
+on the baking-pan or sheet. Place the mixture in a pastry-bag, and press
+it through a tube having an opening one half to three quarter inch
+wide. Have the strips four and a half inches long. Cut off the paste
+from the tube with a knife so the ends will be clean; dust them with
+sugar and bake in a moderate oven ten to twelve minutes, or until a
+light crust has formed. The crust should not be colored. When done,
+stick two together, using white of egg.
+
+_For Biscuit Balls._--Drop the mixture in balls one half inch in
+diameter, and bake the same as fingers. Stick two together with a little
+jam between them.
+
+
+=MACAROONS=
+
+ 1/2 pound of almonds.
+ Whites of 4 eggs.
+ 1-1/4 cupfuls of powdered sugar.
+
+Pound the blanched almonds to a paste, adding a teaspoonful of
+rose-water to keep them from oiling; add also the sugar, a little at a
+time, while pounding the almonds; add a few drops of almond essence and
+the whipped whites of the eggs; beat thoroughly together. Drop the
+mixture in balls one half inch in diameter on strips of paper, using a
+pastry-bag. If not stiff enough to hold their shapes without spreading,
+add one tablespoonful of flour.
+
+
+=COCOANUT BALLS OR CONES=
+
+Grate a cocoanut; add to it half its weight of sugar; then stir in the
+whipped white of one egg. Boll the mixture into balls or cones, and bake
+in a moderate oven twenty to thirty minutes. If the mixture is too soft
+to hold its shape, add a very little flour.
+
+
+=MADELEINES No. 1=
+
+Make two thin layers of Genoese cake (page 467), flavored with brandy;
+place them together with a thin layer of jelly or jam between them. Cut
+the cake into fancy shapes, such as diamonds, squares, circles, and
+crescents, having them not more than one and a quarter to one and a half
+inches in diameter, and the same in thickness. Ice them with fondant
+(see page 485), flavored with ram, kirsch, or maraschino, or vary the
+flavor for the different shapes; or, make the cakes of one layer one and
+a quarter inches thick, and ice them on top and sides with royal icing
+or with fondant, making it of different colors, pink, green, chocolate,
+white, and flavor to correspond. Place in the center of each cake a
+currant, bit of candied cherry, piece of angelica, or almond.
+
+
+=MADELEINES No. 2=
+
+Take a sponge-cake No. 1, or a Genoese cake mixture, and make it a
+little stiffer with flour (enough batter can usually be saved from layer
+cake to make a few fancy cakes). With a spoon or pastry-bag drop it in
+balls one half inch in diameter; bake, and place two together with a
+little jam or jelly between them. Cover them with soft royal icing; have
+them all of the same color. If green, use pistachio flavor as directed,
+page 391, and sprinkle the tops with chopped pistachio nuts; if white,
+with almonds; if pink, leave them plain, and flavor with rose.
+
+
+=LITTLE POUND-CAKES=
+
+Use the Genoese mixture with a few currants added, or the plain
+pound-cake mixture. Bake in small tins one and a half inches in
+diameter; take care that they rise evenly so they are flat on top. Ice
+the top only with any kind of icing.
+
+[Illustration: 1. SMALL POUND CAKES AND TINS IN WHICH THEY WERE BAKED.
+ 2. ORANGE-QUARTER CAKES AND BAKING TIN. (SEE PAGE 478.)
+ 3. SHELL-SHAPED GENOESE CAKES AND BAKING TIN.]
+
+
+=ORANGE QUARTERS=
+
+Use the Genoese or any butter-cake mixture, making it quite stiff with
+flour; flavor it with lemon- and orange-juice, and add a little of the
+grated rind of orange. Drop a small tablespoonful of the cake mixture at
+intervals into the tin made for this cake (see illustration), and bake
+in a moderate oven; cover the wedge-shaped sides of the cakes with soft
+royal icing flavored and colored with orange-juice.
+
+
+=ALMOND WAFERS=
+
+Take one tablespoonful each of flour and powdered sugar and one half
+saltspoonful of salt. Sift them well together. Beat the white of one
+egg just enough to break it, and add as much of it to the flour and
+sugar as it will take to make a creamy batter; flavor with a few drops
+of almond essence. Grease the pans lightly and flour them as directed on
+page 464. Drop a half teaspoonful of the paste on the pan, and with a
+wet finger spread it into a thin round wafer. Bake it in a very moderate
+oven until the edges are slightly browned, then, before removing from
+the oven door, lift each wafer, and turn it around a stick. They stiffen
+very quickly, and the rolling must be done while they are hot.
+
+
+=VENETIAN CAKES=
+
+ 1/2 cupful of butter.
+ 1/2 cupful of powdered sugar.
+ 1-1/2 cupfuls of pastry flour.
+ 1 cupful of almonds.
+ 1 teaspoonful of vanilla.
+ Yolks of 3 eggs.
+
+Cream the butter and sugar together until very light; add the yolks well
+beaten; then the almonds blanched and cut in strips; mix; add the
+vanilla and stir in lightly the flour. The dough should be rather soft.
+Take a small piece at a time, drop it in powdered sugar, and roll it
+between the hands into a ball one inch in diameter. Put a piece of
+pistachio nut on the top. Place the balls a little distance apart on
+floured pans (see page 464), and bake in a moderate oven ten to fifteen
+minutes, or to a pale color. They will flatten in baking and have the
+shape of macaroons.
+
+
+=GAUFFRES=
+
+This receipt was obtained in Paris, and makes the little cakes one sees
+for sale at all the French fetes, and also on the sea-beaches, where the
+vender calls so cheerily, "Voici les plaisirs." They are baked in a kind
+of small waffle-iron. The plaisirs are rolled as soon as taken from the
+iron.
+
+Add a dash of salt to the whites of six eggs, and whip them to a stiff
+froth. Put a half pound of flour in a bowl, and add enough water to make
+a thin batter; flavor it with vanilla, then add the whipped whites of
+the eggs. Bake one gauffre to see if the batter is of the right
+consistency. It should be very thin, and water can be added until it is
+right. Have the iron hot, and grease it well with butter or oil. Pour in
+the batter, and let it run evenly into all the grooves; close the iron,
+and bake on both sides over hot coals. The iron must be very clean,
+smooth, and well greased, or the gauffres will stick. Dredge them with
+powdered sugar as soon as baked.
+
+[Illustration: GAUFFRE IRON. (SEE PAGE 479.)]
+
+
+
+JUMBLES, COOKIES, AND PLAIN CAKES
+
+
+=JUMBLES=
+
+Beat to a cream one cupful of butter with two cupfuls of sugar. Add
+three eggs, the yolks and whites beaten separately; then the flavoring.
+Stir in lightly enough flour to make a paste just firm enough to roll
+thin. Cut it into circles, and with a smaller cutter stamp out a small
+circle in the middle, leaving the jumbles in rings. Place them in a
+floured pan, brush the tops with white of egg, and sprinkle with pounded
+loaf sugar. The sugar should be in small lumps. Bake in a moderate oven
+to a light color.
+
+
+=SAND TARTS=
+
+Make the mixture given for jumbles. Cut it into squares or diamonds,
+place them in floured pans, brush the top with white of egg. Sprinkle
+with granulated sugar mixed with ground cinnamon. Place a piece of
+blanched almond in the center of each one.
+
+
+=ROLLED JUMBLES=
+
+Make a mixture as directed for jumbles, using only enough flour to make
+a thin batter. Drop a teaspoonful of batter for each cake on a floured
+pan. In the oven it runs out into a thin cake, so leave plenty of room
+for the batter to spread. As soon as the edges begin to brown lift the
+cakes, and at the oven door roll them around a stick. Leave them in the
+oven a few moments longer to dry.
+
+
+=PLAIN COOKIES=
+
+ 1 cupful of butter.
+ 2 cupfuls of sugar.
+ 1 cupful of milk.
+ 2 eggs.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of vanilla.
+ Flour.
+ 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder.
+
+Mix in the order given. Use enough flour to roll the dough thin. Cut it
+into circles, and bake in a moderate oven. Brush the tops with white of
+egg, and sprinkle them with sugar. Caraway seeds may be mixed with the
+dough, or sprinkled over the tops if liked. For soft cookies do not roll
+the dough so thin. Stamp them out with a fluted cutter, and remove them
+from the oven as soon as baked, not leaving them to dry as for crisp
+cookies.
+
+
+=GINGER SNAPS=
+
+Put a half cupful of butter and a cupful of molasses on the fire; as
+soon as the butter is softened remove them, and add a half cupful of
+brown sugar, a teaspoonful of ginger, and a teaspoonful of soda
+dissolved in a little hot water; then mix in enough flour to make a
+stiff dough. Roll it very thin, and stamp it into circles.
+
+
+=CRULLERS=
+
+Beat three eggs together; add four tablespoonfuls of sugar and four
+tablespoonfuls of melted butter or lard; then enough flour to make a
+dough stiff enough to roll. Roll it a quarter of an inch thick. Cut it
+into pieces three and a half inches long and two inches broad. Cut two
+slits in each piece, and give each one a twist. Fry the crullers in hot
+fat, the same as doughnuts.
+
+
+=DOUGHNUTS=
+
+ 2 eggs.
+ 1 cupful of sugar.
+ 1 cupful of milk.
+ 4 tablespoonfuls of melted butter.
+ Flour enough to make a soft dough.
+ 1 saltspoonful each of salt and ground cinnamon.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of soda and 1 teaspoonful of cream of tartar, or
+ 1 teaspoonful of baking-powder.
+
+Roll the dough one inch thick. Cut it into small circles, or rings, or
+strips and twist them. Drop the cakes into smoking hot fat, and fry to
+light brown; drain, and roll them in powdered sugar while still warm.
+
+
+=BREAD CAKE=
+
+Take a piece of raised bread-dough large enough for one loaf. Mix into
+it one tablespoonful of butter, one cupful each of sugar, raisins, and
+currants; one half teaspoonful each of ground cinnamon, cloves, and
+allspice. Let it rise, which will take some time, and bake the same as
+bread.
+
+
+=ONE-EGG CAKE=
+
+Cream together a half cupful of butter and a cupful of sugar. Add a
+cupful of milk, and one beaten egg; then two cupfuls of flour mixed with
+two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. Bake in a moderate oven.
+
+
+=WARREN'S CAKE=
+
+ 2 eggs.
+ 1 cupful of sugar.
+ 1 cupful of flour.
+ 1/2 cupful of hot water.
+ 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder.
+
+Beat the yolks and whites of the eggs together well, add the sugar, then
+the flour, in which the baking-powder is mixed, and lastly the water.
+Put it into the oven at once.
+
+
+=MOLASSES WAFERS=
+
+Mix well together one cupful of butter, one cupful of sugar, two cupfuls
+of molasses, and two cupfuls of flour. Drop a few spoonfuls into a pan,
+in different places, and put it in the oven; it will melt and run
+together. Let it bake until it begins to harden on the edges; then
+remove, cut it into squares, and while it is still hot and soft roll
+each piece around a stick.
+
+
+=SOFT GINGERBREAD=
+
+ 1 cupful of molasses.
+ 1 tablespoonful of butter.
+ 1 tablespoonful of boiling water.
+ 2 to 3 cupfuls of flour.
+ 1 teaspoonful each of ginger, ground cloves, cinnamon, and soda.
+ 1/2 saltspoonful of salt.
+
+Add the melted butter to the molasses, then the spices. Dissolve the
+soda in the boiling water, and stir it into the molasses. Add enough
+flour to make a very soft dough--too soft to roll. Bake in a biscuit-tin
+lined with paper, in a moderate oven, for thirty-five minutes. Mix it
+quickly and put it into the oven at once.
+
+
+=MOLASSES CAKE=
+
+Put together two cupfuls of New Orleans molasses and one cupful of
+butter, and heat them enough to soften the butter; remove from the fire,
+and add a teaspoonful each of powdered ginger and cinnamon, and one half
+teaspoonful of cloves, then three well-beaten eggs. When it is well
+mixed add alternately, in small quantities, three cupfuls of flour and
+one cupful of boiling water in which have been dissolved three
+teaspoonfuls of baking soda.
+
+
+
+ICING AND DECORATING CAKES
+
+
+=ROYAL ICING=
+
+Place the white of an egg in a bowl or plate. Add a little lemon-juice
+or other flavoring, and a few drops of water. Stir in powdered sugar
+until it is of the right consistency to spread. While the cake is still
+warm pile the icing on the center of the cake, and with a wet knife
+smooth it over the top and sides of the cake. It will settle into a
+smooth and glossy surface. If the icing is prepared before the cake is
+ready, cover it with a wet cloth, as it quickly hardens. If it becomes
+too stiff add a few drops of water, and stir it again. Color and flavor
+as desired. One egg will take about a cupful of sugar, and will make
+enough icing to cover one cake. If a little more is needed add a little
+water to the egg, and it will then take more sugar. When icing is
+wanted for decorating a cake, beat the whites to a froth, then beat in
+the sugar instead of stirring it, and continue to beat until it is firm
+enough to hold its form. Stirring more sugar into the unwhipped whites
+will make it firm enough for decorating, but the whipped icing is
+better. Put it into a pastry-bag with small tube, or into a paper
+funnel, and press it through into any shapes desired. A good icing is
+made of milk and sugar alone.
+
+
+=ROYAL ICING WITH CONFECTIONER'S SUGAR=
+
+Make this icing the same as the other, using confectioner's sugar, which
+is finer than the powdered sugar, and use a little water with the egg.
+This makes a soft, creamy icing; the more water used, the softer it will
+be. If beaten instead of stirred it will become firm enough to hold in
+place without so much sugar being used, but in this way it dries sooner
+and is not so creamy. This is a good icing for layer cakes, fancy cakes,
+and eclairs.
+
+
+=BOILED ICING No. 1=
+
+Put a cupful of sugar into a saucepan with one quarter cupful of boiling
+water and a half saltspoonful of cream of tartar; stir till dissolved,
+then let it boil without stirring until it threads when dropped from the
+spoon. Turn it in a fine stream onto the white of one egg whipped to a
+stiff froth. Beat the egg until the mixture becomes smooth and stiff
+enough to spread, but do not let it get too cold. Pour it over the cake.
+
+
+=BOILED ICING No. 2=
+
+Boil sugar as directed above to the soft ball; then remove from the
+fire, add the flavoring, and stir it until it looks clouded, and turn it
+at once over the cake.
+
+
+=CHOCOLATE ICING No. 1=
+
+Melt in a dry saucepan some chocolate; dilute it with a little water and
+add enough powdered or confectioner's sugar to make it of the right
+consistency. Use it while warm, as chocolate quickly hardens. Flavor it
+with vanilla.
+
+
+=CHOCOLATE ICING No. 2=
+
+Melt in a dry pan four ounces of Baker's chocolate, or of cocoa. Boil
+one and three quarter cupfuls of sugar with a cupful of water till it
+threads when dropped from the spoon, the same as for boiled icing. Turn
+it slowly onto the chocolate, stirring all the time. Use this icing for
+dipping eclairs and small cakes, and for layer cakes. Chocolate icing
+loses its gloss when at all stale.
+
+
+=CHOCOLATE ICING No. 3=
+
+Melt one ounce of chocolate; dilute it with two tablespoonfuls of milk;
+add two tablespoonfuls of sugar and a quarter teaspoonful of butter;
+stir till smooth and spread on the cake.
+
+
+=ICING FOR SMALL CAKES=
+
+Stir into confectioner's sugar enough syrup of thirty degrees (see page
+513) to dissolve it; add fruit-juice or liqueur to flavor it. When ready
+to use, heat it, stirring all the time, and stand it in a pan of hot
+water while the cakes are dipped into it.
+
+
+=COFFEE ICING FOR ECLAIRS=
+
+Make the same as the one given above, using very strong coffee or coffee
+essence to color and flavor it. Use enough sugar to make a soft flowing
+icing, and dip the cakes into it while it is hot.
+
+
+=FONDANT ICING=
+
+This is the best of all icings. It is soft and glossy, and is used
+especially for small cakes and eclairs. If the fondant is already made,
+it gives very little trouble. To make fondant see page 514. It will keep
+in tight preserve jars any length of time. Fondant does not work so well
+after it has been melted two or three times, therefore it is better to
+take only the amount to be used for one flavor or color at a time. Place
+it in a cup and stand it in a pan of boiling water. Stir the fondant
+constantly while it is melting, or it will become a clear liquid. It
+will soften at a low degree of heat; add the flavoring and coloring and
+dip the cakes into it. If it becomes too hard, add a few drops of syrup
+at thirty-four degrees (see page 513). When liqueurs are used for
+flavoring, add a drop or two at a time only, or they will dilute it too
+much. Should this occur, add a little more fondant to the cup.
+Maraschino, curacao, kirsch, orange-flower water, rose, almond, and
+coffee essences make good flavorings for fancy-cake icings.
+
+
+GARNISHING CAKES
+
+
+WITH POWDERED SUGAR
+
+ [Sidenote: In lines or squares.]
+
+The simplest of all garnishings is to sprinkle the cake with
+powdered sugar; strips of paper can be laid over the cake
+before it is dusted, so as to give lines or squares of white
+over the top; stencils for this purpose are easily cut,
+giving circles or diamonds.
+
+
+WITH CHOPPED NUTS
+
+ [Sidenote: Almonds, walnuts, or pistachio nuts.]
+
+Brush the cake with white of egg and then sprinkle with nuts
+chopped or sliced fine; or the cake may be lightly coated
+with a red jelly or jam, and then sprinkled with chopped
+nuts.
+
+
+WITH COLORED SUGARS
+
+Cover the cake with royal icing, and before it hardens
+sprinkle it with red and green colored sugar (see page 393).
+It may be put on in dots or sprinkled evenly over the whole.
+
+
+WITH TWO COLORS
+
+Loaf cake may be iced in sections of alternate colors. To do
+this, place a strip of stiff paper upright between the colors
+while spreading them, and remove it carefully as soon as the
+icing is on. This will give a clean, sharp line. Cakes iced
+with chocolate or with boiled icing may be ornamented with
+fine lines of royal icing.
+
+
+
+TO DECORATE IN DESIGNS
+
+
+ [Sidenote: To practise elaborate designs.]
+
+Place royal icing in a pastry bag having a tube with small
+opening. Press the icing through slowly, following any design
+one may have in view. Points may be pricked in the flat icing
+at regular intervals as a guide. It requires some practice to
+acquire the facility for making very elaborate designs, but
+straight lines, dots, and circles around the cake are easy to
+make, and with these a great variety of combinations can be
+made. Tubes of various-shaped openings are made to give
+different forms to the icing pressed through them. If one
+cares to practise making fancy decorations, draw a design on a
+paper or slab and follow the lines with icing; scrape off the
+icing when it is done, and repeat the operation until familiar
+enough with the design to be able to make it without a guide.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXII
+
+FROZEN DESSERTS
+
+
+ICE-CREAMS, WATER-ICES, PARFAITS, MOUSSES, FROZEN FRUITS,
+PUNCHES, AND SHERBETS
+
+Frozen desserts are the most acceptable of any that can be
+presented in the summer-time, and at any season they are
+served and expected at dinner entertainments.
+
+ [Sidenote: Comparative trouble and expense.]
+
+The trouble of making them is not greater than that of
+making any dessert of the same class, and the expense no
+more than any dessert using the same amount of eggs and
+cream; thus a plain ice-cream is the same as a custard, a
+mousse the same as whipped cream, etc.
+
+Parfaits are especially delicious creams, and as they
+require no stirring while freezing are very quickly and
+easily made. The freezing of ice-creams which require
+stirring is accomplished in twenty to twenty-five minutes,
+and is much easier work than beating eggs for cake. In fact,
+the whole process of making ice-creams is easier than that
+of making cake, but the latter is so generally practised
+that nothing is thought of it. It will be the same with
+ice-cream if the habit is once formed. They have the
+advantage over hot desserts that they require no attention
+at dinner-time.
+
+
+CLASSIFICATION OF ICE-CREAMS
+
+Philadelphia ice-creams are cream sweetened, flavored, and
+stirred while freezing.
+
+French ice-creams are custards of different degrees of
+richness stirred while freezing.
+
+Parfaits, biscuits, and mousses are whipped cream, with or
+without eggs, frozen without stirring.
+
+Water-ices are fruit-juices sweetened with sugar syrup,
+stirred while freezing.
+
+Punches and sherbets are water-ices with liquors mixed with
+them either before or after they are frozen.
+
+ [Sidenote: Fancy creams.]
+
+These creams, in different degrees of richness and with
+different flavorings, give an infinite variety, and their
+combinations and forms of molding give all the fancy ices.
+
+
+GENERAL RULES FOR MAKING ICE-CREAMS--TO PREPARE ICE-CREAM
+MIXTURES
+
+ [Sidenote: The cream.]
+
+Unless the cream is to be whipped it should be scalded, as it
+then gives a smoother and better ice; otherwise it has a raw
+taste. It is scalded as soon as the water in the outside
+kettle boils. If the cream is too much cooked it will not
+increase in bulk when stirred, therefore do not boil the
+cream. When whipped cream is used it should be very cold,
+whipped to a stiff, firm froth with a wire whip, and the
+liquid which drains from it should not be used. (See whipping
+cream, page 408.)
+
+ [Sidenote: The sugar.]
+
+Ices are much better when the sugar is added in the form of
+syrup. (See sugar syrup, page 503; and boiling syrup, page
+513.) Frozen fruits are smoother when sweetened with syrup,
+and water-ices should be made of a thick syrup diluted with
+fruit-juice to 20 deg. on the syrup gauge.
+
+ [Sidenote: Custards]
+
+In custard creams the milk should be scalded, and when a
+little cool stirred into the beaten yolks (the whites of the
+eggs are not generally used). The whole is then placed on
+the fire, and stirred continually until it coats the spoon
+no longer. The flavoring is then added, and it is beaten
+until cold. This makes it light and smooth, and increases
+its bulk.
+
+ [Sidenote: Biscuits and parfaits.]
+
+For biscuits and parfaits the custard is made of sugar syrup
+and yolks of eggs cooked together until it coats the spoon,
+and is then beaten until cold.
+
+ [Sidenote: Freezing.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Time.]
+
+_Freezing._--Put the ice in a strong cloth or bag, and pound
+it quite fine. The finer the ice the quicker will be the
+freezing. Snow may be used in place of ice. Use one part of
+rock salt (fine salt will not do) to three parts of ice. Rock
+salt can be had at feed-stores when not found at grocers'.
+Place the can in the freezing pail with the pivot of the can
+in the socket of the pail, have the cover on the can, and a
+cork in the opening on top. Hold the can straight, and fill
+around it three inches deep of ice; then an inch of salt.
+Alternate the layers of ice and salt, observing the right
+proportions, until the packing rises to within an inch of the
+top of the can; pack it down as solid as possible. See that
+the can will turn, and be careful not to lift it out of the
+socket. Take off the top of the can; put in the paddle,
+placing the pivot in the socket at the bottom; then pour
+in carefully the ice-cream mixture, which must be perfectly
+cold. Adjust the tops and crank, and turn it for twenty to
+twenty-five minutes, by which time the cream should be frozen.
+The crank turns harder when the mixture has stiffened, and it
+is not necessary to look in order to know it is frozen. If the
+cream is frozen too quickly it will be coarse-grained. To have
+it fine-grained it must be turned constantly, and not frozen
+in less time than twenty minutes.
+
+ [Sidenote: Adding fruit, nuts, cream, etc.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Ripening.]
+
+_Packing._--When the cream is frozen take off the crank and
+the top of the pail. Wipe carefully the top of the can, and
+see that the ice and salt are well below the lid, so none
+will get into the cream; lift off the top, take out the
+paddle, and with a spoon or wooden spatula work down the
+cream. If fruit, whipped cream, or anything is to be added to
+the cream, put it in at this time and work it well together.
+If the cream is to be molded, remove and place it in the
+molds; if not, smooth the top, and make the cream compact with
+a potato masher. Replace the top, put a cork in the opening of
+the lid, draw off the water in the pail by removing the cork
+from the hole in the side of the pail, add more ice and salt.
+Cover it with a heavy cloth, and let it stand until ready
+to use. The cream ripens or becomes blended by standing,
+so should be made before the time for serving. Look at it
+occasionally to see that the water does not rise above the
+opening of the can. If properly watched, and if the packing is
+renewed as required, the cream can be kept for any length of
+time.
+
+ [Sidenote: Molding.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Precaution.]
+
+_Molding Ice-Creams._--Put the frozen ice-cream into the
+mold, filling it entirely full; press it down to force out
+any air bubbles. Rub butter around the edge where the lid
+fits on. Lay a wet thin paper over the top, and put on the
+lid. Fill the edges around the lid with butter or lard. This
+will harden, and make the joints tight. Too much care cannot
+be taken to prevent the salt water leaking into the mold.
+Imbed the mold in ice and salt for from one to six hours.
+Mousses require four to six hours, and parfaits two to three
+hours. Watch to see that the water does not rise above the
+lid of the mold, and draw it off when necessary.
+
+[Illustration: ICE-CREAM MOLDS IN BRICK FORMS AND INDIVIDUAL LEAD
+MOLDS.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Bombs.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Panachee.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Neapolitan.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Individual creams.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Freezing box.]
+
+_Fancy Molding._--When two or more kinds of creams are to be
+combined in the same mold, first place the mold in ice and
+salt; line it an inch or more thick with one kind of cream,
+and fill the center with a cream of different flavor and
+color. These are called bombs. Or, place two or more kinds in
+even layers. Where two colors are used they are panachee; if
+three, they are neapolitan. If the colors are to run in
+vertical strips, which is desirable in pyramidal molds, cut a
+piece of stiff paper or cardboard to the shape of the mold;
+fill each side with a different cream, and then withdraw the
+paper. Arrange layers of creams so that when unmolded the most
+solid one will be at the bottom, as it has the weight of the
+others to sustain; for instance, do not put water-ices or
+parfaits under French creams. Biscuits are put into paper
+boxes, and individual creams into lead molds. The latter must
+be thoroughly chilled, then filled according to fancy or color
+suitable to the form. They are then closed, and put into a
+freezing-box, or into a pail, the joints of the pail tightly
+sealed with butter, and packed in ice and salt. A freezing-box
+with shelves is desirable to have for these creams, but a
+lard-pail answers very well for a small number of molds, as
+the lid fits over the outside, and so can be made tight. Molds
+packed in this way require to stand longer than those which
+come in direct contact with the ice and salt.
+
+ [Sidenote: Decorating.]
+
+The individual creams have to be frozen very hard, and when
+unmolded should be brushed with a little color to simulate
+the fruit or flower they represent. Thus, a peach or a pear
+would be of French cream, which is yellow in color, and the
+sides brushed with a little diluted cochineal to give pink
+cheeks, and a piece of angelica stuck in to represent a
+stem. A flower would be molded in white cream, and the
+center made yellow. A mushroom stem would be dipped in
+powdered cocoa, etc.
+
+Individual creams are perhaps too difficult for an amateur
+to undertake, and hardly repay the trouble when so many
+ornamental creams are more easily made.
+
+ [Sidenote: Unmolding.]
+
+_To Unmold Creams._--Dip the mold into cold water; wipe it dry
+and invert it on the dish. If it does not come out at once let
+it stand a moment, or wring a cloth out of warm water, and
+wipe quickly around the mold. This must be done quickly, or
+the sharp edges of the molded cream will be destroyed. With
+parfaits and mousses it is better not to use a hot cloth, as
+they melt very easily. It destroys the attractiveness of ices
+to have the dish swimming in melted cream, or to have the mold
+soft and irregular in shape, which partial melting produces.
+Hence the unmolding of creams requires great care.
+
+_Ornamental Creams._--A plain ring-mold of ice-cream in any
+color can be made an ornamental cream, by filling the center
+with berries or with whipped cream for sauce. The whipped
+cream may be colored to give pleasing contrast. For instance,
+a white ice-cream-ring filled with pink whipped cream and a
+few pink roses laid on one side of the dish, or a ring of
+pistachio ice-cream filled with white whipped cream or with
+strawberries, and a bunch of green leaves laid on one side of
+the dish.
+
+[Illustration: ICE-CREAM MOLDED IN A RING MOLD, THE CENTER FILLED WITH
+WHIPPED CREAM COLORED PINK, AND THE DISH GARNISHED WITH PINK ROSES AND
+LEAVES.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Melon cream.]
+
+A melon mold may be lined with pistachio ice-cream, the center
+filled with pink ice-cream mixed with a few small chocolates
+to represent seeds, or with French ice-cream, which is yellow,
+and mixed with blanched almonds. The surface of the melon when
+unmolded is sprinkled with chopped browned almonds to simulate
+a rind. This dish may be garnished with leaves.
+
+ [Sidenote: Spun sugar.]
+
+Spun sugar can be employed to ornament any form of cream. It
+may be spread over or be laid around it, and makes a beautiful
+decoration.
+
+_Individual Creams_, representing eggs or snow-balls, can
+be served in a nest of spun sugar. Glace grapes or oranges
+can be arranged on the same dish with individual creams
+representing peaches and pears, the whole lightly covered with
+a little spun sugar.
+
+ [Sidenote: Combinations.]
+
+Individual ice-creams, representing roses, can be held by
+artificial stems, stuck into a rice socle, with natural
+roses and leaves interspersed, giving the effect of a
+bouquet.
+
+Individual creams are also served in baskets of nougat or of
+pulled candy. The baskets can be ornamented by tying a bunch
+of roses with a ribbon on the handle.
+
+Individual creams representing strawberries are served on flat
+baskets, or piled on a flat dish and trimmed with natural
+leaves.
+
+Forms of ice-cream representing animals and vegetables are
+in questionable taste, and are not recommended.
+
+Attention is called to the following creams given in the
+receipts, which are especially good:
+
+The coffee and the chocolate pralinee.
+
+The white ice-cream, plain or mixed with candied or
+preserved chestnuts, or with candied fruits cut into dice.
+
+The maple parfait, which is quite new.
+
+Fruit ice No. 2. Chocolate mousse.
+
+Maraschino, curacao, and noyau make delicious flavorings for
+cream.
+
+
+
+RECEIPTS FOR ICE-CREAMS AND ICES
+
+
+=VANILLA ICE-CREAMS=
+
+NO. 1. PHILADELPHIA ICE-CREAM
+
+ 1 quart of cream.
+ 1/2 pound, or 1 cupful, of sugar.
+ 1 vanilla bean or 1 tablespoonful of vanilla extract.
+
+If the cream is very rich dilute it with a little milk, or the ice-cream
+will be too rich, and also it may form fine particles of butter while
+being stirred. Put the cream and the sugar into a double boiler and
+scald them; when they are cold add the flavoring. If a vanilla bean is
+used it should be infused with the cream when it is scalded. Freeze and
+pack as directed in general directions, page 490.
+
+NOTE.--Plain vanilla ice-cream is very good served with hot
+chocolate sauce. Page 447.
+
+NO. 2. AMERICAN ICE-CREAM (VERY PLAIN)
+
+ 1 quart of milk.
+ 1 cupful of sugar.
+ 3 whole eggs,
+ 1 tablespoonful of vanilla.
+
+Scald the milk. Beat the eggs and sugar together; stir the scalded milk
+into them slowly; replace on the fire in a double boiler and stir
+constantly until the custard coats the spoon; do not let it boil, or it
+will curdle. Beat it for a little while after taking it off the fire.
+When it is cold add the flavoring, and freeze it as directed at head of
+chapter.
+
+Cream will improve this mixture, even if it be only a few spoonfuls.
+More eggs, also, will give a richer ice-cream. When the cream is frozen
+remove the dasher, press the cream down with a potato-masher to smooth
+the top and make it compact, and leave it in the freezer until time to
+serve. A few raisins, thin slices of citron, or a little fresh or
+preserved fruit may be mixed in when the dasher is removed, and will
+much improve the cream.
+
+NO. 3. FRENCH ICE-CREAM
+
+ 1 pint of milk.
+ 1 pint of cream.
+ 1 cupful of sugar.
+ 6 egg-yolks.
+ 1 tablespoonful of vanilla extract or of powder, or 1 vanilla bean.
+
+Scald the pint of milk in a double boiler. (It is scalded when the water
+in the outside kettle boils). Beat the yolks and sugar together until
+light and smooth. Stir the scalded milk slowly into the beaten eggs and
+sugar. Put this into a double boiler and cook, stirring constantly until
+it thickens enough to coat the spoon. Do not let it boil or cook too
+long, or it will curdle. If a vanilla bean is used it should be cut in
+two lengthwise and infused with the scalded milk. Remove the custard
+from the fire; add the cream and the flavoring and stir until it is
+partly cooled. When cold freeze it as directed at head of chapter.
+
+NOTE 1.--This makes a solid, fine-grained cream. It can be made with one
+quart of cream instead of half milk, and eight to ten eggs may be used
+instead of six. The richness depends upon the amount of cream, and the
+solidity upon the number of yolks used.
+
+NOTE 2.--With the whites of the eggs make an angel cake, or keep them
+until next day, and make an angel cream (page 497), or an angel parfait
+(page 505).
+
+
+=CHOCOLATE ICE-CREAM=
+
+Use either of the receipts given for vanilla creams, according to the
+richness and quality of cream desired; add to the custard while it is
+hot four ounces of melted chocolate. To melt the chocolate break it into
+small pieces; place it in a small saucepan on the side of the range
+where the heat is not great. When it is melted add a very little milk or
+custard to dilute and smooth it before adding it to the ice-cream
+mixture. Freeze and pack as directed at head of chapter.
+
+
+=CARAMEL ICE-CREAM No. 1=
+
+ 1 pint of milk.
+ 1 pint of cream.
+ 3 whole eggs.
+ 1-1/2 tablespoonfuls of scraped chocolate.
+ Caramel.
+
+Scald the milk; add it slowly to the beaten eggs; add the chocolate, and
+cook in a double boiler, stirring constantly until the custard coats the
+spoon; then add the hot caramel. When the mixture is perfectly cold add
+the cream, whipped, and freeze. See general directions.
+
+To make the caramel, put a cupful of sugar with a half cupful of water
+into a saucepan; stir until the sugar is dissolved; then, without
+touching, let it cook until a golden color--not longer, or it will
+blacken. This is the caramel stage, and registers on the thermometer
+345 deg. (see page 512).
+
+
+=CARAMEL ICE-CREAM No. 2=
+
+Add the hot caramel to any of the mixtures given for vanilla creams,
+omitting the sugar and vanilla. The caramel supplies both sweetening and
+flavoring. It must be mixed with the custards while hot, as it quickly
+hardens, and will not then dissolve.
+
+
+=COFFEE ICE-CREAM No. 1=
+
+To any of the receipts given for vanilla cream add a half cupful of
+black coffee, and omit the vanilla.
+
+
+=COFFEE ICE-CREAM No. 2=
+
+ 1 quart of milk.
+ 1 quart of cream.
+ 1/2 cupful of very black coffee.
+ 1-1/2 cupfuls of sugar.
+ 1/2 ounce of isinglass soaked for half an hour in a little of the
+ cold milk.
+
+Scald the milk; add the coffee and isinglass and sugar. When it is cold
+add the cream, whipped, and freeze.
+
+
+=WHITE OR ANGEL ICE-CREAM=
+
+ Whites of 6 eggs.
+ 1 cupful of powdered sugar.
+ 1 pint of cream.
+ Italian meringue made of the whites of 2 eggs and 1 tablespoonful of
+ hot syrup.
+ 2 tablespoonfuls of noyau or of orange-flower water.
+
+Break the whites of the eggs, but do not beat them to a froth; stir into
+them the cupful of powdered sugar, and then add the cream. Place it in a
+double boiler, and stir until it is scalded, but do not let it boil;
+remove from the fire and stir until it is cold, to make it light. When
+it is cold add the flavoring, and freeze. When it is frozen remove the
+dasher, stir in the Italian meringue, turn it into a mold, and pack in
+ice and salt for two or three hours. This cream requires a little longer
+to freeze than the other creams.
+
+
+=ITALIAN MERINGUE=
+
+Whip the whites of eggs to a stiff froth; beat into them slowly some
+boiling syrup cooked to the ball. This cooks the eggs enough to prevent
+their separating. The syrup is made by boiling sugar and water until,
+when a little is dropped into cold water, it will form a ball when
+rolled between the fingers.
+
+
+=RICE ICE-CREAM=
+
+Cook a cupful of rice until very soft. Have the juice of a lemon in the
+water in which the rice is boiled. When the rice is steamed dry, cover
+it with a thick sugar syrup and let it stand for an hour or more. Drain
+off the syrup, add a half pint of cream, whipped (this may be omitted if
+preferred); stir this into vanilla cream No. 1 or 3, or with angel
+ice-cream after it is well frozen. Mold and pack in ice and salt for one
+or two hours.
+
+
+=PISTACHIO ICE-CREAM=
+
+Blanch two ounces of pistachio nuts; this is done by pouring over them
+boiling water: after a few minutes the skins can be easily removed.
+Pound the nuts in a mortar to a smooth paste, using a little cream to
+prevent their oiling. Add this quantity of nuts to one quart of vanilla
+cream mixture No. 3; color it green, the shade of green peas; flavor
+with a little orange-flower water, then freeze. When nuts are not
+obtainable, the flavor of pistachio can be produced with orange-flower
+water and a very little bitter almond.
+
+
+=NEAPOLITAN ICE-CREAM=
+
+This cream is molded in brick form in three layers of different flavors
+and colors. Make a cream after the receipt for vanilla cream No. 3,
+using eight or ten yolks, as it should be solid and of fine grain; omit
+the vanilla flavoring. Have a pail packed in ice; when the cream is
+frozen, remove one third of it to the pail and stir in quickly a little
+vanilla, using the vanilla powder if convenient; put this into the
+brick-shaped mold, also packed in ice, and smooth it down to an even
+layer. Take from the freezer one half of the cream remaining in it and
+put it into the pail; stir into it one ounce of melted chocolate diluted
+and made smooth with a little cream or milk. Place the chocolate cream
+in an even layer on the layer of vanilla cream. To the cream remaining
+in the freezer add an ounce of pistachio nuts, prepared as directed in
+receipt for pistachio cream; color it green and add it to the mold for
+the third layer. Seal the joints of the mold with butter to make it very
+tight, as directed for molding, page 491. Pack in ice and salt for
+several hours. The molding of this cream must be done quickly, but with
+care to have the layers even. Strawberry ice is often used for one of
+the layers instead of chocolate cream.
+
+
+=NESSELRODE PUDDING=
+
+ 1 cupful of French chestnuts.
+ 1 cupful of granulated sugar.
+ Yolks of 3 eggs.
+ 1/2 pint of cream.
+ 1/4 pound of mixed candied fruits.
+ 1 cupful of almonds.
+ 1/2 can of pineapple (drained).
+ 1-1/2 tablespoonfuls of maraschino, or 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry.
+ 1/2 teaspoonful of vanilla sugar, or 1/4 teaspoonful of vanilla extract.
+
+1. Remove the shells from the chestnuts; put them in boiling water for
+three minutes, then into cold water, and take off the skins. Boil the
+blanched chestnuts until tender. Take one half of them and press them
+through a sieve. They will go through more easily while hot.
+
+2. Blanch the almonds; chop them fine and pound them.
+
+3. Cut the candied fruits and the chestnuts into dice; pour over them
+the maraschino and let them stand until ready to use.
+
+4. Put into a saucepan on the fire a cupful of granulated sugar and one
+quarter cupful of boiling water; stir until the sugar is dissolved, then
+let it cook slowly for five minutes, making a sugar syrup.
+
+5. Beat the yolks of three eggs until light. Pour onto them slowly,
+stirring all the time, the sugar syrup; place them on the fire and stir
+constantly until the mixture is enough thickened to coat the spoon and
+has the consistency of thick cream. Remove it from the fire, turn it
+into a bowl, and beat it until it is cold. When it is cold add a half
+pint of cream, the mashed chestnuts, the pounded almonds, and the
+vanilla flavoring, and freeze it. When it is frozen remove the lid of
+the freezer, add the fruits, replace the lid, and turn the freezer for
+another five minutes. Put the cream into a fancy mold and pack in ice
+and salt until ready to use. Serve with it whipped cream, or the sauce
+given below for plum pudding glace flavored with maraschino. This makes
+a quart of cream, and, being very rich, is enough to serve to ten
+persons.
+
+Gouffe gives the receipt for this pudding, which he says he obtained
+from the chef of Count Nesselrode. He omits the grated almonds, and uses
+stoned raisins and currants instead of candied fruits. When the cream is
+half frozen he adds a half pint of whipped cream. The raisins and
+currants are boiled until plump and added after the cream is frozen, but
+before it is packed.
+
+
+=PLUM PUDDING GLACE=
+
+Make a chocolate ice-cream as directed on page 496, using the French
+ice-cream mixture. Have a scant three quarters of a pound of mixed
+fruit, composed of seeded raisins and currants boiled until plump, thin
+slices of citron, a few candied cherries and apricots if convenient.
+Pour over them a little sherry and let them stand long enough to be a
+little softened. When the cream is frozen, drain the fruit and mix it
+into the cream, turning the dasher for a few minutes to get it well
+mixed and again hardened. Place it in a melon mold and pack in ice and
+salt. This will make about two quarts of cream. Serve with a sauce
+placed around it on the same dish. The sauce may be whipped cream
+flavored with a little kirsch or brandy, or a sauce made as follows.
+
+
+=SAUCE FOR PLUM PUDDING GLACE OR FOR NESSELRODE PUDDING=
+
+Beat the yolks of two eggs with two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar to
+a cream. Stir it over the fire in a double boiler until the egg is a
+little thickened, but not hard. Continue to beat the egg until it is
+cold. It will then be light and creamy; add a tablespoonful of brandy,
+or of kirsch, or of rum, or of maraschino; and then mix in lightly a
+half pint of cream whipped to a dry, stiff froth.
+
+
+=TUTTI-FRUTTI=
+
+Make a French vanilla ice-cream, page 495. Cut into small dice four
+ounces each of candied cherries, apricots, and plums; and other fruits
+may be used if desired. Let them soak until a little softened in
+maraschino, or kirsch, or sherry. When the cream is frozen, stir in the
+salpicon of fruit, drained; replace the lid of the freezer and turn it
+for five minutes. Turn it into a fancy mold and pack in ice and salt
+until ready to use. The angel ice-cream, page 497, may be used instead
+of the vanilla No. 3 if preferred. Serve with the Tutti-Frutti a sauce
+of whipped cream flavored with kirsch, maraschino, or sherry.
+
+
+=FRUIT ICE-CREAMS=
+
+ No. 1. Berries, or any kind of larger fruit cut into small
+ pieces, may be added to any of the vanilla creams
+ after they are frozen. Remove the paddle of the
+ freezer, mix the fruit in well, then mold and pack in
+ ice and salt for one or two hours. The fruit will
+ become too solid if packed for a long time.
+
+ No. 2. Crush any fruit or berries to a pulp. Sweeten it to
+ taste with a thick sugar syrup (32 deg. on the syrup
+ gauge). Freeze the same as any ice cream, and pack in
+ ice and salt if molded. This makes a delicious ice.
+ Sugar may be used instead of syrup for sweetening,
+ but the latter gives a better result.
+
+ No. 3. Using canned fruit. Strain the liquor from the
+ fruit; sweeten it if necessary with sugar or with
+ syrup. Mix it with an equal quantity of cream, and
+ freeze. When it is frozen add the drained fruit. Mix
+ it well together. Mold and pack in ice and salt for
+ one or two hours. The fruit will become hard if it is
+ packed too long. Preserved strawberries are a
+ particularly good fruit to use for ice-cream.
+
+NOTE.--Strawberries, raspberries, cherries, peaches, apricots, plums,
+pineapple, bananas, and oranges are the fruits generally used for ices
+and creams.
+
+
+=FRUIT PUDDINGS=
+
+ No. 4. Line a mold one or one and a half inches thick with
+ vanilla ice-cream; fill the center with fresh
+ strawberries, raspberries, whortleberries, peaches,
+ bananas, or any fruit. Cover the top with cream. Pack
+ in ice and salt for two hours. The fruit may be mixed
+ with whipped cream, if convenient, when it is put in
+ the center of the mold. Whipped cream may also be
+ served as a sauce with this cream.
+
+
+=NUT ICE-CREAMS=
+
+Vanilla ice cream No. 3, also angel ice-cream, is good with chopped nuts
+mixed with it after it is frozen and before it is packed. Boiled
+chestnuts cut into small pieces, chopped English walnuts, filberts,
+pecan nuts, or almonds may be used. Almonds should be blanched, chopped,
+and browned; and a caramel or an almond flavoring is better than vanilla
+for the cream when almonds are used.
+
+
+
+PARFAITS
+
+
+This class of ice-creams is very easily made, as they are not stirred
+while freezing. The yolks of eggs are cooked with sugar syrup to a thick
+smooth cream, then flavored and beaten until cold and light, and mixed
+with drained whipped cream. They are then simply put into a mold and
+packed in ice and salt for three or four hours, according to size of
+mold. They are not solid like the custard ice-creams, but have a
+sponge-like texture. They should not be frozen too hard. It is because
+they have no water in them to crystallize that they do not require to be
+stirred while freezing.
+
+
+=SUGAR SYRUP=
+
+Put two cupfuls of sugar and a half cupful of water into a saucepan on
+the fire. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, then let it cook slowly
+without touching it for about ten minutes, or until it is a clear syrup.
+The syrup can be made in larger quantities and kept in preserve jars
+ready for use. To keep well it should be boiled to a rather thick
+consistency, or should register 32 deg. on the syrup gauge. For parfaits it
+should be thinner or register 20 deg.. For water ices it should register 32 deg.
+(see boiling sugar, page 513).
+
+In using syrups by measure, articles may be too much sweetened if the
+right degree is not designated; but if one has not a syrup gauge the
+sweetening must be determined by taste. All classes of ice-creams are
+better sweetened with syrup than with sugar. It seems to give them more
+smoothness and delicacy.
+
+
+=VANILLA PARFAIT=
+
+Beat the yolks of eight eggs until light; add one cupful of syrup. Place
+the mixture on a slow fire and stir constantly until the eggs have
+thickened enough to make a thick coating on the spoon. Turn it into a
+bowl and beat it with a whip until it is cold; it will then be very
+light. If a vanilla bean is used for flavoring, infuse it with the
+syrup; if the extract is used add a teaspoonful of it to the custard
+when it is taken from the fire. When the custard is cold add a pint of
+cream whipped to a stiff froth. (If any liquid has drained from the
+cream do not let it go in.) Stir these lightly together; turn the
+mixture into a mold holding three pints. Pack in ice and salt for four
+hours. Make the joints of the mold very tight as directed for molding at
+head of chapter.
+
+This cream can be varied by using different flavorings in place of the
+vanilla: a tablespoonful of curacao or of noyau, two ounces of chocolate
+melted and smoothed with a little cream, etc., etc.
+
+
+=MAPLE PARFAIT=
+
+This is made the same as the vanilla parfait, using maple syrup in place
+of the sugar syrup, and omitting the vanilla flavoring. Maple syrup may
+be made by adding water to maple sugar and cooking it to the right
+consistency.
+
+
+=PARFAIT AU CAFE AND CAFE PRALINE=
+
+Put the yolks of five eggs into a saucepan; beat them light; add three
+tablespoonfuls of sugar syrup and four tablespoonfuls of strong black
+coffee. Stir the mixture over a slow fire until it is enough thickened
+to make a thick coating on the spoon. Turn it into a bowl and beat it
+until it is cold and light. If making coffee praline, add three
+tablespoonfuls of praline powder (see below). Mix in lightly a pint of
+cream whipped to a stiff froth. If any liquid has drained from the cream
+do not let it go in. Turn the mixture into a mold holding three pints
+and pack in ice and salt for four hours.
+
+
+=CHOCOLATE PARFAIT AND CHOCOLATE PRALINE=
+
+Put the yolks of five eggs into a saucepan; beat them until light; add
+three tablespoonfuls of sugar syrup. Cook over a slow fire, stirring
+constantly until it makes a thick coating on the spoon. Turn it into a
+bowl; add two ounces of melted unsweetened chocolate and beat until it
+is cold and light. If making chocolate praline, add three tablespoonfuls
+of praline powder; stir in lightly a pint of cream whipped to a stiff
+froth. If any liquid has drained from the cream do not let it go in.
+Pack in ice and salt for four hours. This makes three pints of cream.
+
+
+=PRALINE POWDER=
+
+Put one and a half cupfuls of sugar and a half cupful of water into a
+saucepan on the fire; stir until the sugar is well dissolved; then add a
+cupful of shelled almonds and a cupful of shelled filberts without
+removing the skins. Let it cook, without touching, until it attains a
+golden color, the caramel stage. Turn it onto a slab or oiled dish. When
+it is cold pound it in a mortar to a coarse powder. Keep the praline
+powder in a close preserve jar ready for use.
+
+
+=ANGEL PARFAIT=
+
+Whip the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth. Put a half cupful of
+sugar and a half cupful of water into a saucepan on the fire. Stir until
+the sugar is dissolved, then let it cook slowly, without touching, to
+the ball, or until a little dropped into cold water will form a ball
+when rolled between the fingers. Pour three tablespoonfuls of the
+boiling-hot syrup slowly onto the whipped whites, beating constantly.
+Add a teaspoonful of vanilla, or of maraschino, or of sherry, or of
+noyau, or any other flavoring. When the Italian meringue is cold, add a
+pint of cream whipped to a stiff froth. Do not let any liquid that has
+drained from the cream go into the mixture. Mold and pack in ice and
+salt for four hours.
+
+
+=IMPERATRICE OF RICE PUDDING GLACE=
+
+Boil a scant half cupful of rice in milk and water as directed for
+boiling rice, page 222, so each grain will be separate; but it must be
+quite soft, so boil it half an hour. This will make a cupful of rice
+when boiled. Whip half a pint of cream to a stiff froth; mix into it
+four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar and one tablespoonful of noyau or
+any flavoring desired; mix the rice lightly with the whipped cream. Turn
+it into a mold, and as quickly as possible pack it; leave it in the ice
+and salt for three hours.
+
+This gives about a quart of cream.
+
+
+=PARFAITS OF CHESTNUTS, CANDIES, FRUITS, FRESH FRUITS, OR BERRIES=
+
+Make a vanilla parfait as directed, page 503. When the mixture is ready
+to go in the mold add a cupful of boiled chestnuts, or marrons glace, or
+of mixed candied fruits cut into dice. Roll them in powdered sugar so
+each piece will be dry and separate and not sink to the bottom. Stir
+them in quickly and pack the mold as quickly as possible after the fruit
+is mixed in. When fresh fruits or berries are used crush the fruit;
+strain off the juice; add enough powdered sugar to the pulp to make it
+of the same consistency as the whipped cream. Pack in ice and salt for
+three hours.
+
+
+=BISCUITS GLACE=
+
+Make a syrup of one cupful of sugar and a quarter cupful of water. Beat
+the yolks of four eggs; add to them three quarters of a cupful of syrup
+and a half cupful of cream or milk. Place the mixture on the fire and
+cook, stirring constantly until it makes a thick coating on the spoon.
+Turn it into a bowl; place it on the ice, and beat it until it is cold
+and quite stiff and light; then fold in lightly a pint of cream whipped
+to a stiff froth. If any liquid has drained from the cream do not let it
+go in. For flavoring infuse a vanilla bean with the syrup, or add a
+teaspoonful of vanilla extract, or of maraschino, or any flavoring
+desired, to the custard when it is taken from the fire. Put the mixture
+into paper boxes; sprinkle over the top some chopped browned almonds or
+some macaroons rolled to crumbs, and pack. Tin boxes containing a
+framework of shelves are made for holding individual ices while
+freezing, but a tin lard-pail can be used if necessary, placing a sheet
+of paper between each layer of boxes. Securely seal with butter the lid
+of the pail and pack in ice and salt for four or five hours.
+
+
+
+MOUSSES
+
+
+Whip a pint of cream very stiff; turn it onto a sieve to drain for a few
+minutes so it will be entirely dry. Return it to the bowl and whip into
+it lightly four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar and a tablespoonful of
+curacao, of noyau, of kirsch, or of very black coffee, or a teaspoonful
+of any flavoring extract, or an ounce of chocolate, melted, and diluted
+with a little milk or cream, and flavor with a few drops of vanilla.
+When a liqueur is used for flavoring less sugar is needed than with
+coffee, chocolate, or essences. Turn the cream into a mold and pack it
+in ice and salt for four hours. Garnish the dish with small iced cakes.
+
+
+=FRUIT MOUSSES=
+
+Whip a pint of cream very stiff and drain as directed above. Mix with it
+a cupful of any fruit-pulp, the juice drained off and the pulp mixed
+with enough powdered sugar to make it of the same consistency as the
+whipped cream; a little cochineal added to strawberry or to peach mousse
+gives it a better color. A little vanilla improves the flavor. Mold and
+pack in ice and salt for three hours.
+
+
+=GOLDEN MOUSSE (Made without Cream)=
+
+ 3 eggs.
+ 3 tablespoonfuls of sherry.
+ 1/2 tablespoonful of lemon-juice.
+ 1 tablespoonful of syrup with the yolks.
+ 2 tablespoonfuls of syrup with the whites.
+
+Beat the yolks smooth; add a tablespoonful of syrup, and cook, stirring
+constantly until the mixture makes a thick coating on the spoon. Remove
+from the fire, add the sherry and lemon-juice, and beat it until it is
+light and cold; whip the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth; pour into
+them slowly two tablespoonfuls of boiling syrup cooked to the ball (see
+Italian meringue, page 498); add the Italian meringue to the mixture of
+yolks, put it into a mold, and pack in ice and salt for four hours. This
+mousse can be flavored with a tablespoonful of kirsch, rum, or brandy
+instead of sherry. A few white grapes or candied cherries laid in the
+bottom of the mold before the mixture is put in, makes the dish more
+ornamental.
+
+
+
+WATER-ICES
+
+
+Water-ices are made of fruit-juice sweetened with sugar syrup. Sugar may
+be used, but the result is better with syrup. The liquid mixture should
+register 20 deg. on the syrup gauge, but if one is not at hand, it can be
+sweetened to taste.
+
+A good way of preparing it is to make a syrup of 32 deg. and add enough
+fruit juice to dilute it to 20 deg.. Freeze the same as ice-cream, and pack
+in salt and ice. The ices will not get so hard as creams. The following
+method may also be used:
+
+
+=ORANGE-ICE=
+
+Boil a quart of water and two and one half cupfuls of sugar for ten
+minutes; strain and add the juice of six oranges and one lemon. When
+cold, freeze.
+
+
+=LEMON-ICE=
+
+Add to the amount of sugar and water given above the juice of four
+lemons and one orange.
+
+
+=STRAWBERRY-ICE=
+
+To a quart of syrup made as given above, add a cupful and a half of
+strawberry-juice.
+
+Ices may be made of any fruit used in the same proportions.
+
+
+
+PUNCHES AND SHERBETS
+
+
+ [Sidenote: Serving.]
+
+These ices are served in glasses after the joint or last
+entree, and before the game. A quart is enough for twelve
+portions.
+
+ [Sidenote: Liquors.]
+
+Punches differ from sherbets only in having a little Italian
+meringue added to them just before serving. They are simply
+water-ices with liquors added. Roman Punch has a cupful or
+two gills of rum added to a quart of lemon-ice. Punches
+having other names are made in the same way, but have other
+liquors or mixtures of liquors. These may be kirsch, kirsch
+and rum, kirsch and maraschino, rum and sherry, or any other
+combination desired. When champagne is used it is generally
+added to orange-ice.
+
+Strawberry, raspberry, pineapple, or orange-ices are generally
+used for sherbets with liqueurs such as curacao, maraschino,
+noyau, etc., combined with kirsch, rum, or champagne.
+
+ [Sidenote: Mixing in the liquors.]
+
+The liquors can be added to the ice mixture before it is
+frozen, in which case it takes them longer to freeze; (in
+fact, spirits will not freeze at all, and hence these ices are
+always soft, and have to be eaten with a spoon); or the
+liquors may be poured over the frozen mixture and stirred in
+with the paddle. Sometimes the water-ice is placed in the
+glasses and a teaspoonful of the liquor or mixture of liquors
+is poured over each glassful at the moment of serving.
+
+
+=COFFEE PUNCH=
+
+Mix together a quart of black coffee, a cupful of cream, three quarters
+cupful of sugar; freeze, and then mix in a half cupful of brandy or rum,
+and a half pint of cream, whipped, and let it stand half an hour. Stir
+it well before serving.
+
+
+=CAFE FRAPPE=
+
+Mix a quart of black coffee with a quart of cream and a cupful of sugar,
+or, better, sweeten with syrup. Freeze the same as ice-cream, and serve
+in glasses. A little brandy may be mixed in just before serving, if
+desired.
+
+
+=LALLA ROOKH=
+
+Make a vanilla cream No. 3. When it is frozen add a cupful of Jamaica
+rum. Turn the dasher until it is well mixed.
+
+Allow a cupful of rum to each quart of cream. Serve in glasses the same
+as punch.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIII
+
+SUGAR AND ITS USES
+
+
+=BOILING SUGAR AND MAKING CANDIES=
+
+BOILING SUGAR
+
+To boil sugar is one of the niceties of cooking, but as the
+uses of boiled sugar in fancy cooking are so various, it
+is worth some practice to acquire the requisite skill. With
+the ordinary ways of testing, it requires much experience
+to tell the exact point at which to arrest the cooking,
+and on this the success depends. The stages named "thread,"
+"blow," "ball," etc., give the different degrees required
+for different purposes. It passes quickly from one to the
+other and needs careful watching and close attention. The
+professional cook's method of testing it by dipping in the
+fingers is not practicable for ordinary use. It is also
+difficult to judge by dropping it in water unless experienced,
+but with a sugar thermometer it can easily be determined with
+perfect exactness and much less trouble. A sugar thermometer
+costs $1.75 or $2.00, a syrup gauge costs fifty cents, and
+both should be considered as necessary cooking utensils as are
+molds, mortars, and other articles used in fancy cooking. For
+measuring syrups, the syrup gauge is used as explained below.
+Ice-creams and frozen fruits are much nicer when sweetened
+with syrup instead of sugar. Water-ices and compotes to
+be right must measure a certain density, and for this the
+syrup gauge is employed. Fondant, one of the very useful
+articles, candies, and spun sugar are easily made with the aid
+of the thermometer. Eleven stages of sugar are explained
+below, but it is not essential to learn exactly more than the
+four which are most used, namely: the "thread" for boiled
+icing, the "soft-ball" for fondant, the "crack" for glace
+fruit, and the "caramel."
+
+[Illustration: SUGAR THERMOMETER AND SYRUP GAUGE. (SEE PAGE 510.)]
+
+[Illustration: UTENSILS FOR BOILING SUGAR.
+
+ 1. Thermometer standing in saucepan of sugar on gas-stove.
+ 2. Cup of water and brush for washing crystals from side of saucepan.
+ 3. Wooden spatula for working sugar on marble slab to make fondant.
+ 4. Wooden skewer for testing sugar when thermometer is not used.
+ 5. Candy wire for dipping nuts or other things to be coated.]
+
+GRANULATION
+
+The tendency of sugar, when the water which holds it in
+solution is evaporated, is to resume its original form of
+crystals; to prevent this is the chief care: the liquid must
+not be jarred or stirred after the sugar is dissolved. The
+grains which form on the sides of the pan as the boiling
+proceeds must be wiped away; this is done by dipping a cloth
+or brush into water and passing it around the pan above the
+sugar. If these crystals are allowed to remain, the whole mass
+will become granular. Also the sugar has a great affinity for
+water, and care must be used to have a dry atmosphere. No
+steam from boiling kettles, etc., must be in the room, and it
+is useless to attempt confections requiring the ball or crack
+stages on a rainy or damp day. When the right degree is
+reached, place the sugar pan in one containing cold water, to
+prevent the cooking from proceeding any farther. The different
+stages follow very quickly after the thread; it is therefore
+well to have a moderate heat and give it undivided attention.
+A very little cream of tartar (a scant half saltspoonful to a
+pound of sugar) added at the beginning makes the sugar less
+liable to grain. If cream of tartar is not used, a few drops
+of lemon-juice should be added at the crack stage. If the
+sugar passes the degree desired, add a spoonful of water and
+continue the boiling. No sugar need ever be wasted unless it
+becomes burned. In working the sugar, if it begins to grain
+there is nothing to do but to add a little water and boil it
+again.
+
+
+DEGREES OF BOILING SUGAR
+
+ [Sidenote: First and second degrees.]
+
+ Small Thread, 215 deg..
+ Large Thread, 217 deg..
+
+Press a little of the syrup between the thumb and finger. A
+ring will form and a fine thread be drawn out which breaks
+at once and returns to the drop; for the second stage the
+thread draws a little farther than the first.
+
+ [Sidenote: Third and fourth.]
+
+ Little Pearl, 220 deg..
+ Large Pearl, 222 deg..
+
+The sugar forms a thread between the fingers which stretches
+long, but breaks. For the fourth it stretches without breaking.
+The first four degrees are syrups.
+
+ [Sidenote: Fifth and sixth.]
+
+ The Blow, 230 deg.. }
+ The Feather, 232 deg.. } crystallization.
+
+Dip in a broom-straw twisted to form a small loop at the end.
+A film will fill the loop, which will blow into a bubble.
+
+At the sixth stage fine threads will fly from the bubble.
+The candy stages follow:
+
+ [Sidenote: Seventh and eighth.]
+
+ Small Ball, 236 deg.-238 deg..
+ Large Ball, 246 deg.-248 deg..
+
+Drop a little into cold water; for the 7th a soft ball can
+be rolled between the fingers; for the 8th a hard ball.
+
+ [Sidenote: Ninth and Tenth.]
+
+ Small Crack, 290 deg..
+ Crack, 310 deg..
+
+At the 9th a little, dropped into water, will break when
+cooled. At 300 deg. it begins to assume a light color, and a few
+drops of lemon-juice should be added (four drops to a pound of
+sugar). At 310 deg. it breaks off sharp and crisp, and crackles
+when chewed.
+
+ [Sidenote: Eleventh.]
+
+ The Caramel, 345 deg.-350 deg.
+
+
+It now assumes a yellow color, and great care must be used
+or it will burn. The cooking must be arrested as soon as it
+is taken from the fire by holding the pan in cold water for
+a minute or so. A skewer or stick is the best thing to use
+for testing, as the little sugar that adheres to it will
+cool quickly. Dip the stick first into water, then into the
+sugar, and again into water.
+
+
+SYRUPS
+
+ [Sidenote: Syrup kept in stock.]
+
+To use a syrup gauge have a glass deep enough to allow the
+gauge to float. A small cylindrical glass like the one shown
+in illustration is best, as it requires so little syrup that
+removing and pouring it back does not arrest the boiling.
+Syrups can be prepared and kept in air-tight preserve jars
+until needed for use. It is well to have in stock syrup at 34 deg.
+for softening fondant when used for icing cakes, eclairs, etc.
+Water-ices should register 18 deg.-20 deg. on the gauge when ready to
+freeze. Fruits to be frozen are better when sweetened with
+syrup at 32 deg. than when sugar is used.
+
+ [Sidenote: Making syrup without a gauge.]
+
+To prepare syrup without a gauge the following method can be
+employed: Put into a saucepan three and one half cupfuls of
+sugar and two and one half cupfuls of water. Stir it over
+the fire until the sugar is dissolved. After it has boiled
+five minutes, counting from the time it is actually boiling,
+it will register 28 deg.; every five minutes' additional boiling
+will thicken it one degree.
+
+At the end of 15 minutes it is 30 deg..
+
+At the end of 25 minutes it is 32 deg..
+
+At the end of 35 minutes it is 34 deg..
+
+
+FONDANT
+
+ [Sidenote: The uses of fondant.]
+
+Fondant is the basis of all French cream candies. It can be
+kept any length of time in air-tight preserve jars, and used
+as needed for the various purposes which it serves. A great
+variety of bonbons can be made of it by using different
+flavors, colors, and nuts in various forms and combinations.
+Some of these are given under "Candies," but each one's
+taste may suggest something different. Fondant makes the
+nicest icing for small cakes; strawberries with the hulls
+on dipped into fondant make a delicious fruit glace. It will
+be found easy to make fondant if the directions given below
+are strictly followed.
+
+
+TO MAKE FONDANT
+
+ [Sidenote: Testing.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Cooling.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Working.]
+
+Place in a copper or a graniteware saucepan two cupfuls of
+granulated sugar, one cupful of water, and a scant half
+saltspoonful of cream of tartar. Stir until the sugar is
+dissolved, but not a minute longer. As it boils, a thin scum
+of crystals will form around the edge of the pan. These must
+be wiped away by wetting a cloth or brush in water and passing
+it around the dish without touching the boiling sugar. This
+must be done frequently, or as often as the crystals form, or
+the whole mass will become granular. When large bubbles rise
+it must be carefully watched and tested, as from this time it
+quickly passes from one stage to another. Have a cup of
+ice-water and a skewer or small stick; dip it into the water,
+then into the sugar, and again into the water. If the sugar
+which adheres to it can be rolled into a soft ball, it is
+done. This is the stage of small-ball, and the thermometer
+registers 236 deg.-238 deg. (see page 512). Have ready a marble slab,
+very lightly but evenly rubbed over with sweet-oil. If a slab
+is not at hand, a large platter will serve the purpose. The
+moment the sugar is done, pour it over the slab and let it
+cool a few minutes, or until, pressing it with the finger, it
+leaves a dent on the surface. If stirred while too warm it
+will grain. If a crust forms, every particle of it must be
+taken off, or else the boiling must be done again, as it shows
+it has cooked a little too long. When it will dent, work it
+with a wooden spatula, keeping the mass in the center as much
+as possible. Continue to stir until it becomes a very smooth,
+fine, white, creamy paste, which is soft and not brittle and
+can be worked in the hands like a thick paste. If the results
+are not right and the mass becomes grained, the sugar need not
+be wasted, but can be put in the saucepan with a spoonful of
+water and boiled again. In stirring the fondant do not mix in
+the scrapings unless the whole is still very soft. They can be
+worked by themselves afterward. Confectioners use one part of
+glucose to ten of sugar and boil to 240 deg..
+
+
+SPUN SUGAR
+
+ [Sidenote: Three requisites.]
+
+Although spinning sugar has been called the climax of the art
+of sugar work, one need not be deterred from trying it; for
+with a dry atmosphere, the sugar boiled to the right degree,
+and care given to prevent graining, it can be accomplished. It
+is upon these three things alone that success depends. Spun
+sugar makes a beautiful decoration for ice-creams, glace
+fruits, and other cold desserts. The expense of making it is
+only nominal, but it commands a fancy price.
+
+
+DIRECTIONS FOR SPINNING SUGAR
+
+ [Sidenote: Keeping.]
+
+Put in a copper or a graniteware saucepan two cupfuls (one
+pound) of sugar; one half cupful of water, and one half
+saltspoonful of cream of tartar. Boil the sugar as directed
+for fondant above, letting it attain the degree of crack, or
+310 deg.. This is the degree just before caramel, and care must be
+used. When it has reached the crack, place the sugar pan in
+cold water a moment to arrest the cooking, for the heat of
+the pan and sugar may advance it one degree. For spinning, two
+forks may be used, but a few wires drawn through a cork are
+better, as they give more points. Have also two iron bars or
+rods of any kind (pieces of broom handle will do), placed on a
+table or over chairs so the ends project a little way; spread
+some papers on the floor under them. Take the pan of sugar in
+the left hand, the forks or wires in the right; dip them into
+the sugar and shake them quickly back and forth over the rods;
+fine threads of sugar will fly off the points and drop on the
+rods. If the sugar gets too cold it can be heated again. Take
+the spun sugar carefully off the rods from time to time and
+fold it around molds, or roll it into nests or other forms
+desired. Place the spun sugar under a glass globe as soon as
+made. Under an air-tight globe with a small piece of lime it
+may keep crisp for a day or two, but it readily gathers
+moisture, and it is safer to make it the day it is to be used.
+Do not attempt to make it on a damp or rainy day, and have no
+boiling kettles in the room (see general directions for
+boiling sugar, page 513).
+
+
+GLACE ORANGES AND GRAPES
+
+ [Sidenote: Causes of failure.]
+
+Divide an orange into sections; do not break the inside
+skin, for if the juice escapes in ever so small a quantity
+the section must be discarded. Let them stand several hours
+until the surface has become very dry. Remove grapes from
+the bunch, leaving a short stem attached to each one. Boil
+some sugar to 340 deg., or the point just before the caramel
+stage (see directions for boiling sugar, page 512). Remove
+the pan from the fire and place it for a moment in water to
+arrest the cooking. Drop the orange sections into the sugar,
+one at a time, and remove them with a candy wire or with
+two forks, and place them on an oiled slab to dry. With a
+pair of pincers take each grape by the small stem and dip it
+into the sugar, and be sure it is entirely coated. Place
+each separately on the slab to dry. If the day is damp, the
+sugar not sufficiently boiled, or the fruit at all moist,
+the sugar will all drain off; therefore the work must be
+done only under the right conditions. Candied cherries may
+be treated in this way: first wash them to remove the sugar;
+let them dry, then pierce them with an artificial stem and
+dip them carefully so as not to deface the stem.
+
+[Illustration: GLACE ORANGES AND GRAPES IN PAPER BOXES.]
+
+[Illustration: GLACE GRAPES AND ORANGES COVERED WITH SPUN SUGAR.]
+
+[Illustration: GLACE GRAPES IN NEST OF SPUN SUGAR.]
+
+[Illustration: GLACE GRAPES COVERED WITH SPUN SUGAR.]
+
+
+CANDIES
+
+ [Sidenote: To prevent granulation.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Greasing.]
+
+When making candies observe carefully the rules for boiling
+sugar. When sugar reaches the candy stage, the water has
+evaporated, and the tendency is to return to the original
+state of crystals. If it is jarred, or is stirred, or if the
+thin line of crystals formed around the pan by the sugar
+rising while boiling is allowed to remain, the whole mass
+will granulate, hence, for success, it is necessary to avoid
+these things. To keep the sides of the pan washed free of
+crystals dip a brush in water and pass it around the pan
+close to the edge of the sugar as often as is necessary; a
+sponge or a small piece of cloth may be used, but with these
+there is danger of burning the fingers. A very little acid
+added at the crack stage also prevents graining; this is
+termed "Greasing." If too much acid is used it prevents the
+sugar advancing to the caramel stage, and also may cause
+granulation. A few drops, only, of lemon-juice, of vinegar,
+or a little cream of tartar are the acids used.
+
+ [Sidenote: Making candies.]
+
+The success of candy-making depends entirely upon boiling
+sugar to just the right degree. The candy will not harden if
+boiled too little. Another stage, where it hardens but sticks
+to the teeth, means the boiling was arrested at the hard-ball
+instead of the crack stage. Unless a thermometer is used,
+a little practice seems necessary before one recognizes
+the small differences upon which success depends; but the
+experience once gained, it is easy to make a pound or more of
+candy at slight expense. In the country, where it is often
+impossible to get fresh candies, it is desirable to be able
+to make them. Where fondant is already prepared and kept
+in preserve jars, the cream bonbons can be quickly made.
+Carameled nuts are perhaps the least trouble to make of any
+candies.
+
+ [Sidenote: Marble slab and iron bars.]
+
+A marble slab is almost requisite in making candy, though
+greased papers and tins can be used. Candy poured upon a slab
+cools quickly, has an even surface, and can be easily removed.
+Four square iron bars are useful to confine the sugar. These
+can be placed so as to form bays of the size suitable to the
+amount of sugar used and the thickness required.
+
+
+=NOUGAT No. 1 (For Bonbons)=
+
+Blanch one cupful of almonds. Chop them and place them in the oven to
+dry. They must be watched that they do not brown. Put into a saucepan
+two and a half cupfuls of powdered sugar and a tablespoonful of
+lemon-juice. Place it on the fire and stir with a wooden spoon until it
+is melted and slightly colored. Let it stand a few minutes so it will be
+thoroughly melted and not grainy, then turn in the hot almonds, mix them
+together quickly, not stirring long enough to grain the sugar, and turn
+it onto an oiled slab. Spread it out in an even sheet, one eighth of an
+inch thick, using a half lemon to press it with. While it is still warm,
+mark it off into squares or diamonds. Break it into pieces when cold.
+These sheets of nougat can be lifted and pressed into molds, but it
+hardens quickly and is not as easy to work as the receipt No. 2.
+
+
+=NOUGAT No. 2 (For Molding)=
+
+Put two cupfuls of granulated sugar into a saucepan with a half cupful
+of water. Let it boil to the crack (310 deg.) without stirring (see boiling
+sugar, page 511), add a few drops of lemon-juice, and then turn in a
+half cupful of hot chopped blanched almonds which have been dried in the
+oven. Mix them together, stirring only enough to mix them and not grain
+the sugar. Pour it on an oiled marble slab, and press it as thin as an
+eighth of an inch or less. Cut the sheet of nougat into pieces of the
+right size and press them into oiled molds. Do this while the nougat is
+only just cool enough to handle, so it will be pliable. Loosen the form
+from the mold while it is still warm, but keep it in the mold until
+cold. The work has to be done quickly, as the nougat hardens in a few
+minutes. Perhaps the first trial to make nougat forms will be a failure,
+but a few trials will enable one to accomplish it.
+
+If any pieces get broken off the molded forms, they can be stuck on
+again with liquid sugar or with royal icing. Horns of plenty are
+favorite forms for nougat. The molds come of different sizes. These
+pieces filled with glace fruits make very ornamental pieces. The horns
+are molded in halves. When the nougat has hardened, the two pieces are
+tied together, rested on a muffin ring, and royal icing pressed through
+a pastry-tube into any ornamental shape along the edges. This quickly
+hardens and binds the horn together. A support for the form is made from
+nougat cut into strips and formed into a box-shape, open at one end.
+
+[Illustration: HORN OF PLENTY IN NOUGAT FILLED WITH GLACE GRAPES.]
+
+[Illustration: HORN OF PLENTY IN NOUGAT FILLED WITH GLACE ORANGES AND
+GRAPES COVERED WITH SPUN SUGAR.]
+
+
+=NOUGAT No. 3 (Soft White Nougat)=
+
+Put into a saucepan the whites of three eggs whipped to a stiff froth;
+beat into them one pound of heated strained honey, then add a pound of
+sugar cooked to the ball, 236 deg.. Continue beating until it attains 290 deg..
+A little of the mixture cooled in water will then crumble between the
+fingers. At this stage add a pound of sugar cooked to the crack, 310 deg., a
+pound of whole blanched almonds, and a few pistachio nuts. Pour the
+mixture into a dish lined with wafers, making the nougat one inch thick.
+Cover the top with wafers, and when cold cut it into pieces three inches
+long and one inch wide. To make wafers, see receipt for gauffres (page
+479); but instead of baking them in the gauffre-iron, spread the mixture
+as thinly as possible on an oiled paper and dry in a slow oven without
+coloring.
+
+
+=NOUGAT No. 4 (Bonbons)=
+
+Blanch, chop, and dry without coloring one cupful of almonds. Melt one
+cupful of powdered sugar with one teaspoonful of lemon-juice, stirring
+all the time. When it is thoroughly melted and a delicate color, turn in
+the hot almonds. Mix them together and turn into an oiled tin. Press
+down the nougat evenly, leaving it an inch thick. Cut it in inch squares
+before it becomes hard. This nougat has only enough sugar to bind the
+nuts together.
+
+
+=BURNT ALMONDS=
+
+Put a cupful of brown sugar into a saucepan with a very little water.
+Stir until the sugar is dissolved. Let it boil a minute, then throw in a
+half cupful of almonds and stir over the fire until the sugar granulates
+and is a little browned. When the nuts are well coated, and before they
+get into one mass, turn them out and separate any that have stuck
+together.
+
+
+=SUGARED ALMONDS=
+
+Put a cupful of granulated sugar in a saucepan with a little water. Stir
+until it is dissolved, then let it cook to the ball stage without
+touching except to test. Turn in a half cupful of blanched almonds and
+stir off the fire until the nuts are well covered with the granulated
+sugar, but turn them out before they become one mass. Boil another
+cupful of sugar to the ball, turn in the coated almonds and stir again
+in the same way, giving them a second coating of sugar, but not leaving
+them in the pan until they are all stuck together. The nuts may be given
+a third coating in the same way, if a larger size is wanted.
+
+For pink almonds, add a little carmine to the sugar just before putting
+in the almonds for the last coating. Any flavoring desired may also be
+added at this time.
+
+
+=MARRONS GLACE (Candied Chestnuts)=
+
+Remove the shells from a dozen or more French chestnuts. Cover them with
+boiling water and let them stand a few minutes until the skins can be
+removed. Put them again in hot water and simmer slowly until the nuts
+are tender, but not soft.
+
+Put a cupful of sugar and a cupful of water in a saucepan and stir until
+dissolved. Add the boiled chestnuts and let them cook in the syrup until
+they look clear, then turn them onto a sieve, using care not to break
+the nuts, and let them cool. Return the strained syrup to the saucepan
+and cook it to the hard-ball stage. Remove it from the fire, add a few
+drops of lemon-juice and a half teaspoonful of vanilla extract. Drop the
+chestnuts into it, one at a time, turn until thinly coated, and remove
+with a candy wire to an oiled paper or slab; or, when the sugar has
+reached the ball stage, add a few drops of lemon-juice, let it cool a
+few minutes, and then stir until it begins to whiten; then immediately
+place in a pan of hot water, flavor with vanilla and stir until it again
+becomes liquid, and dip the nuts as directed above.
+
+
+=MARSHMALLOWS=
+
+Soak four ounces of gum arabic in a cupful of water until it is
+dissolved. Strain it to take out any black specks that may be in the
+gum. Put the dissolved gum arabic into a saucepan with a half pound of
+powdered sugar. Place the saucepan in a second pan containing boiling
+water. Stir until the mixture becomes thick and white. When it begins to
+thicken, test it by dropping a little into cold water. When it will form
+a firm ball remove it from the fire, and stir into it the whites of
+three eggs whipped to a stiff froth. This will give it a spongy texture.
+Lastly, flavor it with two teaspoonfuls of orange-flower water. Turn the
+paste into a pan covered thick with corn-starch. The layer of paste
+should be one inch thick. Too large a pan must not be used, or it will
+spread and make a thin layer. After the paste has stood twelve hours,
+turn it onto a slab and cut it into inch squares, dust them well with
+corn-starch or with confectioner's sugar, and pack in boxes. As the
+paste is more or less cooked, it will be more or less stiff.
+Marshmallows become harder the longer they are kept, but are best when
+as soft as they can be handled.
+
+
+
+CARAMELS
+
+
+=CHOCOLATE=
+
+Put into a saucepan a half cupful each of molasses, of white sugar and
+of brown sugar, a cupful of grated chocolate, and a cupful of cream or
+milk. Stir the mixture constantly over the fire until it reaches the
+hard-ball stage, then add a teaspoonful of vanilla and turn it onto an
+oiled slab between iron bars, or into a greased tin, having the paste an
+inch thick. Mark it in inch squares and cut before it is quite cold.
+Wrap each piece in paraffin paper.
+
+
+=VANILLA, COFFEE, MAPLE=
+
+Put into a saucepan one cupful of sugar and three quarters of a cupful
+of cream. Stir constantly over a hot fire until it reaches the hard-ball
+stage; remove from the fire, add a teaspoonful of vanilla, and turn it
+onto an oiled slab between iron bars, or into greased tins, the same as
+directed for chocolate caramels. For coffee caramels use a half cupful
+of cream and a quarter of a cupful of strong coffee. For maple caramels
+use a cupful of maple syrup in place of sugar, and omit the vanilla.
+
+
+
+BONBONS OF FONDANT
+
+
+=HARLEQUIN BALLS=
+
+Take several small portions of fondant and color each one a different
+shade Do this by dipping a wooden toothpick into the coloring matter and
+then touching it to the paste. The colors are strong, and care must be
+used not to get too much on the fondant, for the candies should be
+delicate in color. For orange balls, color and flavor with orange-juice;
+for pistachio, color green and flavor with orange-flower water and then
+with bitter almond (see page 391); for pink, color with carmine and
+flavor with maraschino or with rose-water; for chocolate, mix in cocoa
+powder and flavor with vanilla; for white, flavor with noyau, peach, or
+anything preferred. When liquid flavors are used, if the fondant becomes
+too soft, mix in a little confectioner's sugar; use as little as
+possible, as too much gives a raw taste. Work in the flavorings and
+colors by hand, and wash the hands between each different color. After
+the fondant is prepared, roll it into balls the size of filberts, then
+roll them in almonds chopped fine. The nuts improve them, but may be
+omitted if desired. Let the balls stand for two or more hours to harden
+before putting them together. If the balls are wanted of one color on
+the outside, omit the nuts and dip them in liquid fondant colored as
+desired.
+
+
+=NEAPOLITAN SQUARES=
+
+Color and flavor fondant in three colors as directed above; roll it into
+layers one quarter inch thick, and place the layers one on the other;
+press them together lightly and cut into inch squares.
+
+
+=NUT CREAMS=
+
+Mix chopped nuts of any kind into flavored fondant, then roll into a
+layer three quarters of an inch thick, and cut into squares.
+
+
+=SUGAR-PLUMS=
+
+Take small pieces of fondant, flavored and colored to taste; form it
+into olive-shaped balls. Hold one in the palm of the hand, cut it half
+through and press into it an almond; form the fondant around it, leaving
+a narrow strip of the nut uncovered, giving the appearance of a shell
+cracked open, showing the kernel. If chocolate color is used the almond
+should be blanched, but with light colors the skin is left on to give
+contrast. When green color is used it represents a green almond.
+
+
+=CHOCOLATE CREAMS=
+
+Roll fondant flavored with vanilla into small balls; let them stand a
+few hours to harden. Melt an ounce of unsweetened chocolate, add to it
+two tablespoonfuls of milk, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and a quarter
+teaspoonful of butter. Stir till smooth; drop the balls into it and
+remove with a fork or candy wire. If the chocolate becomes too stiff,
+add a few drops of syrup and heat it again.
+
+
+=CREAMED NUTS AND CREAMED FRUITS=
+
+Put one or two tablespoonfuls of fondant into a cup. Place the cup in a
+basin of hot water and stir constantly until the fondant becomes soft
+like cream or molasses. If it is not stirred it will go back to clear
+syrup; flavor and color the liquid fondant as desired. Drop the nuts in
+one at a time, turn them until well covered with fondant, lift them out
+with a candy-spoon, and place them on an oiled paper, or on an oiled
+slab. English walnuts, cherries, strawberries, and grapes are very good
+creamed in this way. The hulls are left on strawberries, the stems on
+cherries and grapes. Brandied cherries may also be creamed in the same
+way. If the fondant becomes too stiff, melt it again. After it has been
+melted twice it no longer works well. A few drops of syrup at 34 deg. can
+then be added. It is well to have some syrup prepared to keep in stock
+for this purpose. A drop or two of liquid is sufficient to soften
+fondant, and unless care is used it will be diluted too much, in which
+case confectioner's sugar can be mixed in; but this gives a raw taste to
+the fondant, and should be avoided if possible.
+
+
+=COCOANUT CREAMS=
+
+Grate some cocoanut fine. Mix it with as much liquid fondant as will
+bind it well, and flavor with a little vanilla. Spread it in a layer one
+inch thick and cut into one inch squares, or roll it into balls, and dip
+the balls into melted chocolate, the same as directed for chocolate
+creams, or into liquid fondant, flavored and colored as desired.
+
+
+=COCOANUT CAKES=
+
+Moisten a cupful of sugar with the milk of a cocoanut; boil it to the
+soft-ball; then stir in as much grated cocoanut as the boiled sugar will
+moisten; stir it only enough to mix and not granulate. Drop a spoonful
+at a time on an oiled slab, making flat round cakes about two inches in
+diameter. If the sugar granulates before the cakes are all spread, add a
+little water and cook it again to the soft-ball.
+
+
+=PEPPERMINT CREAMS=
+
+Melt fondant as directed for creamed nuts; flavor it with essence of
+peppermint. With a spoon drop the liquid fondant in even amounts upon an
+oiled slab, making lozenges; or, better, turn it into starch molds (see
+starch molds, below).
+
+
+=CHOCOLATE PEPPERMINTS=
+
+Dip the peppermint lozenges into liquid chocolate, as directed for
+chocolate creams.
+
+
+=TO MAKE STARCH MOLDS AND CAST CANDIES=
+
+Fill a box-cover with corn-starch, having it very light and dry; shake
+it down even. Press into it a die of any shape desired, making the
+indentations carefully. Plaster casts are made for this purpose, but
+buttons make very good dies. A smooth flat button one half inch in
+diameter makes a good shape for peppermints. Molds are used for cream
+drops, chocolates, or any of the flavored clear candies.
+
+The liquid candy is dropped carefully into the molds and removed when
+cold and the starch dusted off. The starch can then be stirred light and
+again pressed into molds.
+
+
+
+CANDIES MADE FROM SUGAR BOILED TO THE CRACK OR THE CARAMEL
+
+
+=PEPPERMINT DROPS=
+
+Boil a cupful of sugar to the hard-ball. Remove it from the fire; add a
+half teaspoonful of essence of peppermint and stir it just enough to mix
+in the flavoring and cloud the sugar. Drop it into starch molds or upon
+an oiled slab, letting four drops of the candy fall in exactly the same
+spot; it will then spread round and even.
+
+These drops should be translucent or a little white. Unless care is used
+the candy will grain before the drops are molded; therefore it is better
+to pour it from the spout of the pan than to dip it out with a spoon.
+
+
+=CARAMELED NUTS=
+
+Boil a cupful of sugar to the crack or to the caramel, as preferred; add
+a few drops of lemon-juice. Blanch a few almonds and dry without
+coloring them. Drop one at a time into the sugar; turn it until well
+covered without stirring the sugar; lift it out with the candy-spoon,
+and place it on an oiled slab. Do not drain the nuts when lifting them
+out, and enough sugar will remain to form a clear ring of candy around
+each one. English walnuts, filberts, or any other nuts may be used in
+the same way. They should be warmed so as not to chill the candy. The
+work should be done quickly. If the sugar becomes hard before the nuts
+are all done, return it to the fire to heat. Add a teaspoonful of water
+if necessary, and boil it to the right degree again. If the sugar is
+boiled to the crack, the candy will be without color; if boiled to the
+caramel, it will be yellow.
+
+
+=ALMOND HARDBAKE=
+
+Blanch some almonds and split them in two. Dry them in a moderate heat
+without coloring them. Lay them with the flat side down on an oiled
+layer-cake tin, entirely covering it. Pour over the nuts enough sugar
+boiled to the crack to entirely cover them. The almonds may be laid in
+regular order like wreaths, or in groups like rosettes, if desired. Mark
+off squares or circles on the candy while it is warm, and it can then be
+broken in regular pieces when cold.
+
+
+=PEANUT CANDY=
+
+Fill a small square tin a half inch deep with shelled peanuts, leaving
+the skins on. Boil some sugar to the crack or to the caramel, and pour
+it over the nuts, just covering them. Cut it into two-inch squares
+before it becomes quite cold.
+
+
+=TAFFY=
+
+Put into a saucepan two and a half cupfuls of sugar and a half cupful of
+water; stir until it dissolves; then wash the sides of the pan, and let
+it boil without touching until it reaches the soft-ball stage; add a
+tablespoonful of butter and a half teaspoonful of lemon-juice, and let
+it boil to the crack; add a teaspoonful of vanilla, and turn it onto an
+oiled slab or a tin to cool. Mark it off into squares before it becomes
+cold.
+
+
+=MOLASSES CANDY=
+
+Put into a large saucepan a cupful of brown sugar, two cupfuls of New
+Orleans molasses, and a tablespoonful each of butter and vinegar. Mix
+them well and boil until it will harden when dropped in water. Then stir
+in a teaspoonful of baking-soda, which will whiten it, and turn it into
+a greased tin to cool. When it can be handled pull it until white and
+firm; draw it into sticks and cut it into inch lengths.
+
+
+=CANDIED ORANGE OR LEMON PEEL=
+
+Keep the peel of the fruit, as it is used, in a weak brine until enough
+has collected to preserve. Wash it thoroughly in several waters. Let it
+boil in plenty of water until tender, changing the water several times.
+If the peels are fresh they need be boiled in one water only. When they
+can be pierced with a straw, drain off the hot water. Let them cool, and
+scrape out the white pulp with a spoon. Make enough syrup to cover the
+yellow peels, using the proportion of a pound of sugar to a pint of
+water. When the syrup is boiling, drop in the peels and let them cook
+slowly until they are clear. Then boil rapidly until the syrup is
+reduced almost to dryness, using care that it does not burn. Spread the
+peels on a flat dish and place them in a warm place to dry for twelve
+hours or more. When perfectly dry pack them into preserve jars. They are
+cut into shreds and used in cakes, puddings, and wherever raisins and
+citron are used. They are also used in pudding sauces. It is very little
+trouble to make the candied peels, and they are a delicious addition to
+various sweet dishes. The boiled peel can be cut into shreds before
+being cooked in the syrup if preferred.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIV
+
+FRUITS
+
+
+In point of general usefulness, apples hold the first place
+among fruits. Oranges also serve a great number of purposes,
+and, like apples, can be depended on nearly the whole year.
+Peaches and apricots, although of short season, can be so
+successfully preserved that they, as well as berries, render
+important service in cooking. All of these fruits are excellent
+prepared as compotes, with pastry, with corn-starch, or with
+gelatine, making a variety of dishes without number. In the
+index will be found a list of dishes under each of these
+heads. In the fruit season one is sometimes at a loss to
+know how to utilize the abundance there may be at command.
+Usually the fresh fruit is most acceptable at that time, but
+the little trouble and slight expense of canning should make
+one provident enough to secure a year's store to supply the
+various purposes which cooked fruit serve.
+
+ [Sidenote: Temperature.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Arranging.]
+
+Fresh fruits are always wholesome, beautiful, and inviting,
+and should always have a place on every table. The practice
+of leaving fruit on the sideboard in a warm room from one
+meal to another is a mistake, for fruit should be fresh,
+firm, and cold to be in its best condition. An exception to
+this rule may be made for fruits fresh from the garden with
+the heat of the sun upon them. The small fruits are much
+more delicious when tasting of the sunshine, but fruits
+obtained from markets are better for being chilled. Much
+taste may be shown in arranging fruits for decorating the
+table. They may be combined in large dishes, giving effect
+of abundance, or a quantity of one kind massed together for
+color-effects, or a few choice specimens of a kind placed on
+separate compotiers. All the ways are good and, if the fruit
+is fresh and fair, will be most attractive. Green leaves
+should be combined with fruits; grape-leaves under small
+groups of peaches, plums, grapes, etc., are much used by the
+French, who excel in the beautiful arrangements of fruit.
+White grapes, shading from those with pink tints to white
+below, give pleasing effects on white dinner-tables.
+
+ [Sidenote: Apples.]
+
+Apples should be washed and rubbed until well polished. Fine
+apples so treated make an attractive centerpiece dish.
+
+ [Sidenote: Illustrations.]
+
+A few ways of preparing oranges are given in illustrations.
+
+[Illustration: DIFFERENT WAYS OF PREPARING ORANGES.]
+
+[Illustration: SLICED ORANGES.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Oranges, grape-fruit, or shaddocks.]
+
+The grape-fruit is served at breakfast, or as a first course
+at luncheon. The pulp must be separated from the thin bitter
+skin which separates the sections, with a silver knife. A
+little sugar is added, and sometimes a teaspoonful of sherry,
+to each portion. The pulp and juice is eaten with a spoon from
+the peel, one half the shaddock being served to each person,
+or it may be served in small glasses. The peels prepared as
+fancy baskets can be kept fresh for several days in water.
+
+[Illustration: GRAPE FRUIT SERVED IN THE HALF PEEL.]
+
+[Illustration: GRAPE FRUIT SERVED IN A BASKET MADE OF THE PEEL AND A
+BRANCH OF HOLLY TIED TO THE HANDLE. (SEE PAGE 530.)]
+
+[Illustration: GRAPE FRUIT SERVED IN A BASKET MADE OF THE PEEL--GERANIUM
+LEAVES TIED TO THE HANDLE.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Peaches.]
+
+Peaches should have the down taken off lightly with a soft
+brush before being served. A fruit doily should be given at
+the time they are passed, as peaches stain the table linen.
+
+ [Sidenote: Strawberries.]
+
+Large fine strawberries are served with the hulls on and piled
+in a pyramid. Sugar is passed with them, or they may be served
+on individual plates around a small mound of sugar, made by
+pressing the sugar in a wineglass and then unmolding it in
+the center of the plate.
+
+ [Sidenote: Berries.]
+
+No berries should be washed. If strawberries are sandy, cold
+water must be poured over them and drained off at once, but
+the berries will no longer be at their best. Sugar should
+always be passed, and not put over the berries before serving
+them, as it extracts their juice and destroys their firmness.
+They should also be served in small dishes, as they crush with
+their own weight. Where a large quantity is being served,
+several dishes should be used.
+
+ [Sidenote: Currants.]
+
+A mixture of red and of white currants makes an attractive
+breakfast fruit. They may be served on the stems if fine and
+large clusters.
+
+ [Sidenote: Bananas sliced, sauted, and fried.]
+
+Bananas sliced and covered with whipped cream make a good light
+dessert for luncheon. They may be moistened with orange-juice
+or with sherry before the cream is added, if desired. Bananas
+may be cut in two lengthwise, sauted in a little butter, and
+served as a vegetable or as an entree; or they may be cut in
+two, the ends cut square, so they will resemble croquettes,
+then rolled in flour, and fried in hot fat to a light color,
+and served as a dessert with currant jelly sauce. To make the
+sauce, dilute the jelly with boiling water; add a few chopped
+blanched almonds and shredded candied orange-peel. The unripe
+and not fully developed banana is devoid of sweetness and when
+roasted resembles a baked potato. In hot climates the natives
+live mostly on bananas, and a nation is said to be cursed where
+they grow, because the ease with which they get their living
+makes them lazy.
+
+ [Sidenote: Stewed figs.]
+
+Soak dried figs in cold water for several hours, then stew
+them slowly until plump. Drain and pile them on a dish, and
+serve with whipped cream slightly sweetened and flavored
+with vanilla, sherry, maraschino, or with essence of almond.
+Arrange the cream in a circle around the figs.
+
+ [Sidenote: Salpicon of fruits.]
+
+Mix together lightly an equal proportion of orange-pulp,
+bananas cut into half-inch dice, and grapes cut in two and
+the seeds removed. Add sugar if necessary, and a little
+sherry or liqueur if desired; serve in glasses or in
+half-orange skins. Grape-fruit may be used in the same way;
+it may also be combined with the orange salpicon. There
+should be a good quantity of juice with the mixture.
+
+[Illustration: SALPICON OF FRUITS IN ORANGE-SKIN.]
+
+[Illustration: SALPICON OF FRUITS IN GLASS.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Melons.]
+
+Melons are in perfection in hot dry weather. They absorb
+water readily and should not be gathered after a heavy rain
+storm. Small melons are cut in two, the seeds removed, a
+piece of ice placed in each piece, and a half melon served
+to each person. Large melons are cut in broad sections and a
+generous piece served as a portion. Melons may be served at
+the beginning or the end of any meal. They are usually most
+acceptable as a first course. They should be thoroughly
+cold.
+
+ [Sidenote: Frozen fruits.]
+
+Any of the fruits can be partly frozen and served as an ice.
+Cut them into pieces, sweeten with sugar syrup, and pack in
+ice and salt for an hour, but do not leave them long enough
+to become stiff. Berries are of course left whole.
+
+ [Sidenote: Quinces baked.]
+
+Pare and core quinces the same as apples. Put them in a
+shallow earthen dish, with enough water to fill the dish a
+quarter inch deep. Place them in a moderate oven and bake
+until tender, basting them often. Serve them hot with butter
+and sugar as a luncheon dish.
+
+[Illustration: PLUMS.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Nuts.]
+
+Nuts with hard shells are cracked, the meats removed and
+placed in bonbon dishes, or are piled on lace papers in
+small compotiers. Almonds with paper shells are served
+whole. Almonds are also served blanched. Peanuts with the
+shells and skins removed, and served in bonbon dishes, are
+much liked and seldom recognized as the much-despised nut.
+Peanuts may be salted the same as almonds.
+
+ [Sidenote: Salted almonds.]
+
+Blanch the almonds by putting them in boiling water for a
+few minutes; the skins can then be easily rubbed off. Put
+the blanched nuts into a pan with a small piece of butter,
+and place them in a moderate oven. Stir them frequently so
+they will brown on all sides. Sprinkle them freely with salt
+as soon as they are taken from the oven.
+
+ [Sidenote: Salted almonds No. 2.]
+
+Blanch the almonds, and when they are thoroughly dry pour
+a tablespoonful of oil on every cupful of nuts. Let them
+stand in the oil for an hour, then add a tablespoonful of
+fine salt to each cupful. Stir them and place in a shallow
+pan in the oven until they are colored a light brown. Stir
+them occasionally while in the oven, so they will be evenly
+colored. Turn them onto a paper to dry, and shake off the
+loose salt before serving.
+
+ [Sidenote: Salted English walnuts and filberts.]
+
+Brown them in the oven with a little butter the same as
+almonds. Filberts are blanched, but walnuts do not have the
+skin removed.
+
+A mixture of salted almonds, walnuts, and filberts makes a
+good combination.
+
+Salted nuts are served at luncheon or dinner, and are eaten
+at any and all times during those meals.
+
+
+=SALPICON OF FRUIT PUNCH=
+
+This is served in glasses, in place of and in the same way as frozen
+punch after the roast. Cut a pineapple into small dice; remove the
+bitter skin carefully from the segments of three shaddocks and cut them
+into pieces. Cut in two and remove the seeds from a pound of white
+grapes; mix the fruit together. Put a cupful of rum and a cupful of
+sugar into a saucepan on the fire and let them come to the boiling
+point, then pour them over the fruit and let stand until cold. The rum
+will not penetrate the fruit so well if put on cold. Put the mixture
+into a freezing-can and pack in ice and salt for several hours, or
+until ready to serve. Stir the mixture together carefully every little
+while.
+
+
+=PUNCH OF WHITE CALIFORNIA CANNED CHERRIES=
+
+Drain off the liquor; make a rum syrup as above; soak and freeze in the
+same way.
+
+
+=JELLIED FRUIT=
+
+Cut the pulp of two oranges into small pieces; cut two bananas into
+dice; cut half a dozen candied cherries into quarters; chop a dozen
+blanched almonds. Mix all lightly together and turn them into a bowl or
+a china mold. Soak a half ounce of gelatine in a half cupful of cold
+water for an hour; dissolve it in a cupful of boiling water; add a half
+cupful of sugar and stir over the fire until dissolved; then add the
+juice of half a lemon, the juice which has drained from the fruit, and a
+tablespoonful of sherry. Turn it into the mold slowly, so it soaks into
+the fruit, and set aside to cool. Serve with cream if convenient. Any
+mixture of fresh fruits may be used in the same way; raisins may be used
+instead of cherries, or both may be omitted. This is a good way to
+utilize fruits that are going to waste.
+
+
+=FRUIT JUICES=
+
+The juice of oranges, strawberries, currants, or any fruit makes a
+delicious first course for luncheon in summer time or the fruit season,
+when prepared as directed below. It is served cold in small glasses and
+eaten with a spoon.
+
+Take a quart of fruit-juice; this will require about a dozen oranges, or
+two quarts of strawberries or other juicy fruit; strain it through
+filter paper to make it clear (see page 415); put it in an earthenware
+or porcelain-lined saucepan on the fire, and as soon as it steams, stir
+in three teaspoonfuls of arrowroot moistened in a little cold water.
+Cook it until clear; then add a half cupful of sugar (or more if an acid
+fruit), and as soon as the sugar is dissolved turn it into a bowl to
+cool. At the moment of serving put a piece of ice in each glass.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXV
+
+COMPOTES, PRESERVING AND CANNING, PICKLES
+
+
+=COMPOTES=
+
+ [Sidenote: For plain desserts.]
+
+Compotes are fresh fruits stewed. They are good served with
+cake as a plain dessert. In combination with rice or other
+molded cereals they are a very wholesome sweet for children.
+
+ [Sidenote: Serving.]
+
+Make a syrup of 28 deg. (see page 513). When it is boiling drop
+the fruit in, a few pieces at a time, so it will not get
+broken or crushed. Let it cook until tender, but still firm
+enough to hold its form. Remove it carefully with a skimmer.
+Arrange the pieces in regular order, overlapping, or piled
+like uncooked fruit in a glass or silver dish. After the
+fruit is cooked, let the syrup boil down until thick, or
+about 32 deg., and strain it over the fruit. Let it cool before
+serving.
+
+
+=APPLE COMPOTE=
+
+Pare and core the apples; leave them whole, or cut them into halves,
+quarters, or thick round slices. Boil them until tender, and finish as
+directed above. Have a few slices of lemon in the syrup and serve them
+with the fruit. Pieces of cinnamon and cloves boiled with the fruit give
+a good flavor.
+
+For jellied apples boil down the syrup to the jelly point. When partly
+cooled pour it slowly with a spoon over the apples, so enough will
+adhere to give them a glaze. The center of the apples may be filled with
+a bright-colored jelly or jam.
+
+
+=COMPOTE OF PEARS=
+
+Use pears that are not quite ripe. Cut them in two lengthwise, splitting
+the stem. Remove the core carefully with a scoop. Boil and serve them as
+directed above.
+
+
+=COMPOTE OF PEACHES OR APRICOTS=
+
+Peel the fruit and cut it in halves. Prepare it as directed above. Mix
+with the syrup some meats taken from the pits.
+
+
+=COMPOTE OF ORANGES=
+
+Peel the oranges down to the pulp, using a sharp knife. Cut them in two
+crosswise. Remove with a pointed knife the core and seeds from the
+center. Boil them, one or two at a time, until tender, in a syrup with a
+little lemon-juice added, and be careful to keep them in good shape.
+Boil the syrup down until it threads, and pour it over the oranges piled
+in a glass dish. A candied cherry in the center of each one gives a
+pretty garnish. Orange compote is good served plain, or with whipped
+cream, with ice-creams, Bavarians, or corn-starch puddings. Mandarin
+oranges make a delicious compote.
+
+[Illustration: COMPOTE OF ORANGES GARNISHED WITH CANDIED CHERRIES. (SEE
+PAGE 536.)]
+
+
+
+PRESERVING AND CANNING
+
+
+ [Sidenote: Sterilizing the fruit.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Use of paraffin.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Proportions.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Utensils.]
+
+The success of preserving and canning depends upon heating the
+fruit until all germs are destroyed, then sealing it air-tight
+while still scalding hot. In this way no new germs of ferment
+or mold can reach the fruit. Patent jars are generally used,
+and must be put into scalding water before being filled to
+prevent their breaking, and also to sterilize them. The
+preserve must be put into them scalding hot, a spoon-handle
+run down the sides to liberate any bubbles of air, the jar
+filled to the very brim, and the top put on each one at
+once after it is filled. A simple and very effectual way of
+hermetically sealing fruit is to cover it with paraffin. This
+can be obtained at any pharmacy. Place the paraffin in a small
+saucepan on the side of the range; it melts at a low degree
+of heat. When the jar or glass is filled with hot preserves
+wipe the glass close to the fruit to free it of syrup. Cover
+the top with a tablespoonful of liquid paraffin, and do
+not move the jar until the paraffin has set; it will then
+adhere closely to the glass. This will be found a very easy
+and satisfactory way of sealing fruits. The paraffin when
+taken off the fruit can be washed and kept to use again. In
+preserving, sugar is used in the proportion of three quarters
+of a pound or one pound of sugar to a pound of fruit, and the
+fruit is thoroughly cooked. In canning, one quarter of a pound
+of sugar to a pound of fruit is used, the fruit is only
+thoroughly scalded, and so retains its flavor better. Fruits
+should be under rather than overripe for preserving, and only
+the finest should be selected. Inferior fruit may be used for
+jams. It is most abundant when at its best, and at this time
+it is cheapest. A porcelain-lined kettle and wooden spoons
+should be used in the cooking, and a wide-mouthed funnel is a
+convenience for filling the jars.
+
+
+=PRESERVED PEACHES=
+
+The skin can easily be removed from peaches, leaving a smooth surface,
+by placing them in a wire basket and plunging it for a moment into
+boiling lye. The lye is made by adding two cupfuls of wood ashes to four
+quarts of water. From the lye put the fruit into cold water and rinse it
+several times, then rub off the skin. Cut each peach in two and place
+again in cold water to preserve the color until ready to use. Place in
+a porcelain-lined kettle three quarters the weight of sugar you have of
+fruit. Add a very little water to dissolve the sugar. Let it boil a
+minute, and take off any scum that rises. Then add as much fruit as will
+float without crowding, and cook until it is transparent, but not until
+it loses shape. Remove each piece separately as soon as it is cooked.
+When ready to fill the jars place them carefully in a pan of boiling
+water; have the tops and rubbers also in hot water. Part of the fruit
+has become cooled while the rest was cooking, but, as it must go into
+the jars hot, place it again in the boiling syrup, a little at a time.
+Use a ladle or cup to dip out the fruit; run a spoon-handle around the
+inside of the jars after they are filled to liberate any air bubbles.
+Add enough syrup to fill them to overflowing, and adjust the rubber and
+top on each jar as it is filled. Any juice that is left over may be
+boiled down to a jelly, or it may be bottled to use as flavoring or for
+sauces.
+
+
+=PRESERVED PEARS=
+
+Peel the pears; cut them in two lengthwise, splitting the stem, or they
+may be left whole if preferred. Place them carefully in jars; fill the
+jars with a syrup of 30 deg. (see page 513); cover the jars without
+fastening the tops. Place the jars in a boiler of warm water, half
+covering them. Stand the jars on muffin-rings, slats of wood, or
+something to raise them off the bottom of the boiler, or they will break
+while cooking. Cover the boiler and cook the fruit until it is tender
+and looks clear. Remove the jars carefully, fill them completely full,
+using more hot syrup, or the contents of one of the cooked jars. Adjust
+the tops and set them to cool where the air will not strike them. (See
+canning.) Pears may be cooked the same as peaches, but they are such a
+very tender fruit, it is better to use the method given, as the shape is
+kept better in this way.
+
+
+=PRESERVED PLUMS=
+
+Preserve plums in the same way as directed for peaches or for pears.
+Remove the skin from them or not. If left on it is likely to crack open
+and come off if boiled too long. To prevent this, in a measure, prick
+the plums in several places with a fork before cooking.
+
+
+=GRAPE PRESERVES=
+
+Press the pulp out of each grape. Boil the pulps until tender, then pass
+them through a colander to remove the seeds. Mix the skins with the pulp
+and juice, add as many cupfuls of sugar as there are of grapes, and boil
+all together until well thickened.
+
+Seal while hot the same as other preserves.
+
+Green grapes are preserved by cutting each grape in halves, taking out
+the seeds, then adding an equal quantity of sugar, and boiling all
+together until of the right consistency.
+
+
+=PRESERVED STRAWBERRIES No. 1=
+
+Select firm, large berries and remove the hulls. To each pound of fruit
+(one basketful of berries will weigh about a pound) add three quarters
+of a pound of granulated sugar. Mix it with the berries, and let them
+stand ten to fifteen minutes, or long enough to moisten the sugar but
+not soften the berries. Put them in a granite or porcelain-lined
+saucepan and let them boil slowly five to ten minutes, or until the
+berries are softened: do not stir them, as that will break the berries,
+and do not boil long enough for them to lose their shape. Cook one
+basketful of berries only at a time. A larger quantity crushes by its
+own weight. A good method is to have two saucepans and two bowls, and
+leave the berries, after being hulled, in the baskets until ready to
+use; then put a basketful at a time in a bowl with sugar sprinkled
+through them; while one bowlful is being cooked, the bowl refilled, and
+the glasses filled, the other one is ready to use. In this way no time
+is lost, and the cooking is accomplished in as short a time as though
+all were put into a preserving kettle together. It is well to put
+strawberries into glasses. One basketful of berries will fill two
+half-pint tumblers. Cover the tops with paraffin as directed above, page
+537.
+
+
+=PRESERVED STRAWBERRIES No. 2=
+
+Fill pint jars with as many berries as they will hold; pour over them a
+hot syrup of 32 deg. (see page 513). After standing a few minutes they will
+shrivel, and more berries should be added. Cover and cook them in a
+boiler as directed for preserved pears and canning.
+
+Strawberries require more sugar than other fruits to preserve their
+color, therefore they do not can well.
+
+Strawberries, if carefully prepared by either of the foregoing receipts,
+will resemble the Wiesbaden preserves.
+
+
+=RASPBERRY PRESERVE=
+
+Raspberries are preserved the same as strawberries.
+
+
+=CITRON PRESERVE=
+
+Pare and core the citron; cut it into strips and notch the edges; or cut
+it into fancy shapes. Allow a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit, and to
+six pounds of the fruit allow four lemons and a quarter of a pound of
+ginger root. Tie the ginger in a cloth, and boil it in a quart and a
+half of water until the flavor is extracted; then remove it, and add to
+the water the sugar and the juice of the lemons; stir until the sugar is
+dissolved and the syrup is clear; take off any scum; then add the
+citron, and cook until it is clear, but not soft enough to fall apart.
+Can and seal while hot.
+
+
+
+CANNING
+
+
+APPLES, PEACHES, PEARS, PLUMS, CHERRIES, BERRIES, ETC.
+
+ [Sidenote: Proportions.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Red fruits.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Cooling.]
+
+Canning does not differ from preserving, except in the amount
+of sugar used. A quarter of a pound of sugar to a pound
+of fruit is the rule, but none at all need be used, as the
+fruit will keep just as well without it if it is thoroughly
+sterilized by heat and immediately sealed. Fruits that require
+sugar when eaten fresh need sugar in like proportion when
+canned. The fruit may be boiled in a syrup of 14 deg., which is
+made of one pound of sugar to a quart of water, and bottled
+the same as when preserved, but an easier and better way is to
+cook it in the jars. Pack the fruit tightly in the jars and
+cover it with a syrup of 14 deg.; red fruits need more sugar to
+preserve their color, and should have a syrup of 24 deg., which is
+one pint of water to a pound of sugar. Place the jars in a
+boiler of water, half covering them; raise them off the bottom
+of the boiler by standing them on muffin-rings or slats of
+wood. Do not let them touch. Cover the boiler, and let them
+cook until the fruit is tender; the fruit will fall a little,
+so the jars will have to be filled up again; use for this the
+contents of another jar, or plain boiling water; adjust and
+fasten the tops at once, and place them where the air will not
+strike them while cooling.
+
+Another way is to pack the dry jars full of fruit, fasten
+down the tops at once, place them in a boiler of cold water
+nearly covering them, raise it to the boiling-point and cook
+for an hour, and leave them in the water until cold again.
+In this way they are cooked in their own juice, and are said
+to retain their flavor better than where water is used.
+Canned apples make a very good substitute for fresh ones for
+pies, compotes and apple-sauce.
+
+
+JAMS OR MARMALADES
+
+ [Sidenote: Testing.]
+
+Use three quarters of a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit.
+Place the fruit, pared and cored, in layers with the sugar in
+the preserving kettle. Let it stand a few minutes to extract
+some of the juice from the fruit; then place it on the fire
+and cook until it becomes a thick, consistent mass. Stir it
+frequently to break the fruit. When it has become tender, use
+a potato-masher to crush it. When it looks clear, put a little
+on a plate, and if it thickens, it is done. Put it into
+tumblers and cover. This does not require to be hermetically
+sealed. In making preserves it is well to reserve all the
+fruit which is not perfect and make it into jam.
+
+
+=QUINCE MARMALADE=
+
+Pare, core, and cut into pieces the fruit. Put the skins and cores into
+a kettle; cover them with water, and boil thirty minutes, or until
+tender; strain off the water through a colander, and as much pulp as
+will pass without the skins. To this add the rest of the fruit and three
+quarters of a pound of sugar to each pound of fruit. Boil it until it
+becomes a jelly-like mass. Mash the fruit as much as possible. It may be
+colored red, if desired, with cochineal. Turn it into glasses, tin
+boxes, or wooden salt-boxes. It becomes solid, and is served cut into
+slices. The Russians cut it into inch squares, and serve it as a bonbon.
+
+
+=ORANGE MARMALADE=
+
+Allow the juice and grated rind of one lemon to every five oranges.
+Weigh the fruit before cutting it, and allow three quarters of a pound
+of sugar to a pound of fruit. Remove the peel in quarters, and boil it
+in plenty of water until it is tender enough to pierce easily with a
+broom-straw; then drain off the water and let it cool. Remove the seeds
+and as much of the skin as possible from the pulp. Boil the pulp with
+the sugar until the orange is well cooked. When the peel is cool take
+one piece at a time in the palm of the hand, and with a tablespoon cut
+out all the white pithy part, leaving the thin yellow rind. Place a
+number of these pieces together, and with a sharp knife cut them into
+thin shreds. By cutting many together in this way it is done quickly.
+Add the shredded rinds to the cooked oranges and let them cook until of
+the right consistency. It should be very thick, but not solid like
+jelly. This is a very good marmalade, and resembles the Dundee brand.
+
+
+=APPLE MARMALADE=
+
+Make the same as directed for jams.
+
+
+=BRANDY PEACHES=
+
+Cook the fruit the same as directed for preserving peaches; but for this
+purpose the peaches are left whole, the skin left on or not, as desired.
+If the skins are retained they should be carefully brushed to remove all
+the down; use only fine fruit. When the jars are filled, add to each
+quart a half cupful of brandy, and seal; or, after filling the jars with
+fruit, boil down the syrup until it is very thick, and to each cupful of
+syrup add a cupful of brandy; pour it over the fruit and seal.
+California brandy serves very well for this purpose.
+
+
+
+JELLIES
+
+
+CURRANT OR ANY BERRIES
+
+To make clear jelly use only the perfect fruit. Pick it over carefully
+and remove the stems. Place it in a porcelain-lined kettle and crush it
+enough to give a little juice so it will not burn. Cook it slowly until
+the fruit is soft, then turn it into a heavy cloth and press out all the
+juice. Strain the juice several times if necessary, to make it clear.
+Passing it through filter paper is recommended. Measure the juice, and
+to each pint allow a pound of sugar. Put the sugar in the oven to heat,
+but do not let it burn. Put the strained juice into the kettle and let
+it boil twenty minutes; then add the hot sugar, and stir until the sugar
+is dissolved and the juice is clear again. Pour it into glasses and let
+it stand until set. Grapes and cherries do not jelly easily, and a
+little gelatine added will insure success. When fruit does not jelly it
+is usually because it is over ripe. The fruit should not be gathered
+after a rain, nor should it be washed.
+
+
+=APPLE JELLY=
+
+Wash the apples; cut them in pieces without peeling or coring, but
+remove any imperfect parts. Barely cover them with water and boil slowly
+until they are tender, then strain off the liquor through cheese-cloth
+without pressing. Measure the juice, and to each pint of juice allow a
+pound of sugar. Put the juice in the preserving kettle and let it boil
+five minutes; then add the sugar and stir until it dissolves. Continue
+to boil it until a little dropped on a cold plate will jelly. It will
+take twenty to thirty minutes. Turn it into tumblers and cover. This
+jelly spread on the apple used in tarts improves them very much.
+
+
+=CRAB-APPLE JELLY=
+
+Make the same as apple jelly.
+
+
+=QUINCE JELLY=
+
+Make the same as apple jelly.
+
+
+=SPICED GRAPES=
+
+Prepare the grapes as for preserving, by removing the skins, boiling the
+pulp, and straining out the seeds. To seven pounds of fruit (weighed
+before the seeds are removed), add a cupful of strong vinegar, a cupful
+of grape-juice taken from the grapes used for preserves, two ounces of
+cinnamon, one ounce of cloves (tie the spices in a cloth so they can be
+removed), three and one half pounds of sugar. Boil until it becomes
+thick like a marmalade, which will take about an hour and a half. When
+done turn it into glasses. This is good with roast meats.
+
+
+=PLUM SAUCE FOR MEATS=
+
+To each pound of Damson plums, add a half cupful of sugar, one half
+ounce each of cinnamon, mace, and cloves (tie the spices in a bag).
+Remove the stones from the plums and boil until it becomes thick like
+jam.
+
+
+=SWEET PICKLED PEACHES AND PLUMS=
+
+Allow three and three quarter pounds of sugar to seven pounds of fruit.
+Put the sugar into the preserving kettle with a quart of vinegar and two
+ounces each of cloves and a stick of cinnamon. Boil them for five
+minutes after the sugar is dissolved. Pare the peaches and stick a clove
+into each one. Place a few at a time in the boiling syrup and cook them
+until they look clear, but are not softened enough to fall apart. When
+all are cooked, continue to boil the syrup until it is reduced nearly
+one half and pour it over the peaches. Plums are pickled in the same
+way. The skins may be left on both peaches and plums if preferred; in
+which case the down must be brushed off the peaches, and the plums must
+be pricked with a fork in several places to prevent the skins cracking
+when placed in the hot syrup.
+
+
+=PICKLED WALNUTS=
+
+Gather the walnuts when well grown, but still soft enough to be pierced
+through with a needle. Run a heavy needle through them several times and
+place them in strong brine, using as much salt as the water will absorb.
+Let them remain in brine for a week or ten days, and change the brine
+every other day; then drain the nuts and expose them to the air until
+they have turned black. Pack them in jars and cover them with boiling
+hot vinegar prepared as follows: To a gallon of vinegar add an ounce
+each of ginger root, mace, allspice, and cloves, and two ounces of
+peppercorns; boil them together for ten minutes and strain over the
+nuts. Let them stand a month before using.
+
+
+=CUCUMBER OR GHERKIN PICKLES=
+
+Gather each day the cucumbers of the size desired; rub them smooth with
+a cloth and place them in brine strong enough to float an egg. They will
+keep in the brine until wanted to pickle. Soak the cucumbers in water
+for two days after taking them from the brine, changing the water once,
+and then scald them in vinegar, or pour the boiling vinegar over them
+and let them stand in it two days before using. Put into each two
+quarts of vinegar an ounce of peppercorns, a half ounce each of mustard
+seed and mace, a piece of horseradish, a piece of alum the size of a
+pea, and a half cupful of sugar; boil them together for ten minutes
+before straining it over the cucumbers. The very small cucumbers are
+called gherkins.
+
+
+=GREEN TOMATO PICKLE=
+
+ 1 peck of green tomatoes.
+ 2 quarts of onions.
+ Vinegar.
+ 1/2 tablespoonful of cayenne.
+ 1/4 tablespoonful of ground mustard.
+ 1 teaspoonful of turmeric.
+ 2 pounds of brown sugar.
+ 1/2 pound of white mustard seed.
+ 1/2 ounce of ground mace.
+ 1 tablespoonful of celery seed.
+ 1 tablespoonful of ground cloves.
+
+Slice the tomatoes and onions very thin; sprinkle a little salt through
+them and let them stand over night. Drain them through a colander and
+put them on to boil with enough vinegar to cover them and boil slowly
+until they are clear and tender, then drain them from the vinegar. Put
+into some fresh vinegar the sugar, mustard seed, mace, celery seed, and
+cloves, and let them boil for a few minutes; then pour it over the
+drained tomatoes, which have been mixed with the cayenne pepper, ground
+mustard, and turmeric. Mix them well together; add a half bottle of
+salad oil, and when cold put it in jars.
+
+
+=CHOW-CHOW=
+
+ Cut into pieces,
+ 1/2 peck of green tomatoes.
+ 2 large cabbages.
+ 15 onions.
+ 25 cucumbers.
+
+Mix them together and pack them in layers with salt; let them stand for
+twelve hours, then drain off the brine and cover them with vinegar and
+water, and let them stand another twelve hours.
+
+Drain off the vinegar and cover them with one and one half gallons of
+scalding hot vinegar which has been boiled a few minutes with one pint
+of grated horseradish, one half pound of mustard seed, one ounce of
+celery seed, one half cupful of ground pepper, one half cupful of
+turmeric, one half cupful of cinnamon, and four pounds of sugar.
+
+Let them stand until perfectly cold, then add one cupful of salad oil
+and one half pound of ground mustard. Mix them all thoroughly together
+and place in jars.
+
+
+=NASTURTIUM PICKLE=
+
+Pick the nasturtium seeds green; leave a short stem on them and place
+them in a weak brine for two days; then soak them in fresh water for a
+day. Pack them in jars and turn over them boiling vinegar; seal and let
+them stand a month before using.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVI
+
+BEVERAGES
+
+
+FILTERED WATER
+
+ [Sidenote: Boiling the water.]
+
+It is a recognized fact that many diseases are contracted
+through drinking impure water, yet many are so careless as
+not to take the simple means of removing this danger. It
+only requires boiling the water to destroy the germs. This,
+however, does not remove the foreign matter, such as decayed
+vegetable growth and other substances, therefore it is well to
+filter as well as to boil water. Many good filters are made
+which are cheap and easy to clean. The Gate City Stone Filter
+is perhaps the simplest one, being an earthen crock with a
+porous stone bottom. Although all filters claim to remove
+germs as well as impurities from water, it is safer to boil it
+first. Bright, crystal-like water in clear glass carafes is
+an ornamental addition to the table service as well as a
+convenient way of serving it. If the carafes are stopped with
+cotton and placed in the refrigerator for several hours, the
+water will be refreshingly cool, and cracked ice, which many
+do not use, in the belief that it arrests digestion, will not
+be required.
+
+
+TO FREEZE CARAFES
+
+ [Sidenote: Packing.]
+
+Fill the bottles a little less than half full. The water
+should be below the largest part of the bulb; stop the bottles
+with cotton, and over the top of each one invert a tin cup.
+Individual timbale-molds may be used. Cover the bottom of a
+tub with ice and salt, place the bottles on it, leaving some
+space around each one, then fill the tub with ice and salt,
+the same as in packing ice-creams, and cover it. Within two or
+three hours the water will become frozen. Care must be taken
+that the water in the tub is never high enough to flow into
+the top of the carafes. When ready to serve, wipe the frozen
+carafes and fill them with ice water.
+
+
+TEA
+
+ [Sidenote: The water.]
+
+You cannot have first-rate tea or coffee unless you use
+freshly-boiled water. Water that has been boiled for an hour
+or more lacks life, and gives a dull taste to the decoction.
+Draw freshly filtered water and let it come to a hard boil
+before using.
+
+Scald the pot and immediately put into it the tea-leaves.
+
+When the water boils hard, pour upon the tea-leaves the
+required quantity of water. Shut down the cover of the
+tea-pot and let it stand just five minutes before serving.
+
+ [Sidenote: Proportions.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Steeping.]
+
+To give the proportions of tea and water is impossible,
+as such different degrees of strength are demanded. One
+teaspoonful of tea to a pint of water, steeped five minutes,
+makes a weak tea. Two teaspoonfuls give the color of mahogany,
+if an English breakfast tea is used. Oolong tea does not color
+the water very much, so its strength cannot be as well judged
+in that way. Tea, to be perfect, should not steep longer than
+five minutes; it may continue to grow stronger after that
+time, but the flavor is not as good, and if the leaves remain
+too long in the water the tea becomes bitter.
+
+The Russians, who are reputed to have the best tea, prepare it
+at first very strong, getting almost an essence of tea; this
+they dilute to the strength desired, using water which is
+kept boiling in the samovar. Water removed from the kettle and
+kept in a pot where it falls below the boiling-point, will not
+give satisfactory results in diluting a strong infusion.
+
+ [Sidenote: The tea-bag.]
+
+Where a quantity of tea is to be used, as at receptions, it is
+well to put the tea into a swiss muslin bag, using enough to
+make a very strong infusion. Place the bag in the scalded pot;
+add the boiling water; after five minutes remove the bag. Keep
+a kettle of water boiling over an alcohol flame, and use it to
+dilute the tea as needed. The tea will then be as good as
+though freshly made. If, however, the leaves are allowed to
+remain in the pot the tea will not be fit to use after a short
+time, and no matter how much it may be diluted, it will still
+have an astringent taste.
+
+ [Sidenote: The tea-ball.]
+
+Silver balls are convenient to use where one or two cups at
+a time only are to be made for the friend who drops in for
+the afternoon cup of tea. The ball holding the tea is placed
+in the cup, water from the boiling kettle poured over it,
+and the ball removed when the water has attained the right
+color.
+
+ [Sidenote: Russian tea.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Tea punch.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Iced tea.]
+
+Various preparations of tea are made by adding flavorings.
+The so-called Russian tea is made by adding sugar and a thin
+slice of lemon to each cup; tea punch by soaking the sugar
+first in rum or brandy. These, however, as well as milk,
+destroy the flavor of tea and change the character of the
+drink. Iced tea is a very refreshing drink in summer. It is
+served in glasses, with plenty of cracked ice, and should
+not be made very strong, or it will become clouded when the
+ice is added. Iced tea is improved by adding lemon. One
+tablespoonful of lemon-juice to a glass of tea is a good
+proportion.
+
+
+
+COFFEE
+
+
+CARE OF THE COFFEE-BEAN
+
+It is generally understood that tea becomes air-drawn if not
+kept closely covered. It is also desirable to keep coffee in
+the same way.
+
+
+COFFEE MIXTURES AND BRANDS
+
+ [Sidenote: 2/3 Java, 1/3 Mocha.]
+
+Mandhaling coffee, which is grown by the Dutch government on
+the island of Sumatra, is considered the finest coffee in the
+world. The finest Mocha which comes to this market contains
+twenty per cent. of "Long Bean." The best-known mark of this
+coffee in New York is H. L. O. G. A favorite mixture is two
+thirds Mandhaling to one third Mocha. The ordinary mixture
+of two thirds Java to one third Mocha is misleading, as there
+are an indefinite number of inferior qualities of both "Mocha"
+and "Java." The best Java comes from the port of Padang in
+Sumatra, and the only true Mocha comes from Aden in Arabia.
+The finest grades of Mexican, Maracaibo, Bogota, and Jamaica
+coffees are highly esteemed. High grades of "Washed Rio" are
+also richly flavored coffees. These high-class coffees are
+difficult to get unadulterated. Another difficulty in buying
+coffee is that each variety has many grades, so the only
+assurance one can have of the quality received is the good
+faith of the grocer with whom one deals. A practice among
+grocers is to make mixtures which they sell under their own
+trademark.
+
+
+=TO MAKE COFFEE=
+
+To have the coffee right is one of the difficulties of the housekeeper.
+The making of coffee is a very simple operation, but the nicety and care
+with which it is prepared mark the difference between the good and bad
+decoction. The best quality of coffee carelessly made is not as
+acceptable as that well made from an inferior bean. Coffee readily
+absorbs foreign flavors. If the pot is wiped out with a soiled cloth, or
+if the coffee is strained through a flannel not perfectly sweet, the
+coffee betrays it. If the spout is allowed to collect a film of stale
+coffee, it will ruin all the fresh coffee put into the pot. To have
+perfect coffee, use an earthen or china pot, and have the water boiling
+when turned onto the coffee. Like tea, the results will not be right if
+the water is allowed to fall below the boiling-point before it is used.
+Have the coffee ground to a fine powder in order to get its full flavor
+as well as strength. There is great waste in having coffee ground
+coarse. A pound will go three times as far in the former as in the
+latter case, therefore a good coffee-mill is an economy in a household.
+Like tea, it should also be freshly made. It seems to lose its fine
+flavor if kept hot for any considerable time. Black coffee is usually
+made by dripping. Any coffee is better made in that way, using less
+coffee if less strength is desired, but a strong infusion diluted with
+hot milk makes a better drink than weak coffee flavored with milk.
+
+
+=DRIP COFFEE=
+
+One heaping tablespoonful of coffee to a cupful, or half pint, of water
+will make black coffee. Put the coffee powder into a felt bag, or on a
+thick flannel laid on a strainer and pour the boiling water over it. The
+flannel must be thick, and close enough to prevent the fine powder
+straining through. If enough coffee is used to make it of much depth in
+the strainer, the water will pass through very slowly and the coffee
+will be cold, therefore have the pot hot before beginning, and stand it
+in a pan of hot water while it is dripping. Coffee will not be right
+unless the water is violently boiling when poured on the grounds. Serve
+the coffee at once.
+
+
+=BOILED COFFEE=
+
+Put the ground coffee into the pot, pour over it boiling water; let it
+come to the boiling-point; remove, and stir into it the slightly beaten
+white of an egg and the crushed shell; replace it on the fire and let it
+boil one minute. This is to clear the coffee of the fine particles held
+in suspension. Pour a tablespoonful of cold water down the spout and
+place it on the side of the range where it will be perfectly still for
+five minutes, then pour off carefully the liquid coffee. Do not let the
+coffee boil three minutes altogether. The aroma of the coffee is the
+escaped volatile oils--all that is lost detracts just so much from the
+flavor of the drink.
+
+
+=ICED CAFE AU LAIT=
+
+Add enough cold black coffee to milk to give it the desired strength and
+flavor. Sweeten to taste and let it stand on ice until ready to serve.
+Serve it in glasses instead of cups. Any coffee left from breakfast
+prepared in this way makes a refreshing and acceptable drink for
+luncheon in summer.
+
+
+=CHOCOLATE=
+
+Maillard's chocolate is excellent; his receipt is given below. For each
+cup of chocolate use one cupful of milk and one bar of chocolate. With
+Maillard's chocolate this is nearly one and a quarter ounces. Put the
+cold milk into a porcelain-lined saucepan, break the chocolate into
+small pieces, and add them to the milk. Place the saucepan on the fire,
+and with a wooden spoon stir constantly and rapidly until the chocolate
+is dissolved and the milk has boiled up once. Beat it vigorously to make
+it smooth, and serve at once. More milk may be added if this is too
+rich. Chocolate should not be kept standing.[553-*]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[553-*] Huyler's, Baker's, and other brands of chocolate may be prepared
+in the same way, the proportions being regulated by the richness
+desired.--M. R.
+
+
+=COCOA=
+
+Dissolve a teaspoonful of cocoa in half a cupful of boiling water; then
+add a half cupful of boiling milk and boil it for one minute, stirring
+vigorously all the time. Sweeten to taste.
+
+Brioche or Bath buns are good to serve with chocolate or cocoa for a
+light lunch.
+
+
+=LEMONADE=
+
+Squeeze the lemons, allowing two lemons for every three glasses of
+lemonade; remove any seeds that may have fallen in, or strain the juice
+if the lemonade is wanted clear. Sweeten the juice with sugar, or,
+better, with sugar syrup. When ready to use, add the necessary amount of
+water and a large piece of ice if served in a bowl, or put cracked ice
+into the glasses if only a few glassfuls are made. Put a thin slice of
+lemon or a few shavings of lemon-zest into each glass.
+
+
+=ORANGEADE=
+
+To two and one half cupfuls of orange-juice, the juice of two lemons,
+and the grated rind of one orange, add two cupfuls of syrup at 32 deg. (see
+page 513), or sweeten to taste; add enough water to bring it to 11 deg. on
+the syrup gauge, or to taste; strain and place it on ice until ready to
+use.
+
+
+=COBBLERS=
+
+Put a claret-glassful of claret into a tumbler; add a teaspoonful of
+sugar, or sweeten to taste; fill the glass with ice cracked fine, and
+add a little water if desired. Place a shaker over the glass and mix it
+well; add a strawberry, raspberry, bit of pineapple, orange, or any
+fruit convenient; add, also, two straws. Cobblers may be made of sherry,
+Catawba, or any wine, using a quantity in proportion to the strength
+desired. They are meant as light cooling drinks, and should not be
+strong of wine.
+
+
+=CLARET CUP No. 1=
+
+ 1 pint of claret.
+ 1 pint of soda.
+ Juice of 1 lemon.
+ 1 sherry-glassful of liqueur.
+ 1 slice of cucumber rind.
+ 1 orange.
+ Grapes.
+ Bunch of mint.
+ Large piece of ice.
+
+
+=CLARET CUP No. 2=
+
+ 1 quart of claret.
+ 1 glassful of white Curacao.
+ 1 glassful of sherry.
+ 1 slip of borage, or a slice of cucumber.
+ 1 pint of soda.
+ Juice of 1 orange.
+
+Sweeten to taste.
+
+
+=CHAMPAGNE CUP No. 1=
+
+ Juice of 1/2 lemon.
+ 1 teaspoonful of powdered sugar.
+ 1 sherry-glassful of liqueur.
+ 1 pint of champagne.
+ 1 pint of soda.
+ 1 slice of cucumber.
+ 1 slice of pineapple.
+ 1 orange cut in pieces.
+ Bunch of mint.
+ Large piece of ice.
+
+
+=CHAMPAGNE CUP No. 2=
+
+ 1 quart of champagne.
+ 1 glassful of white Curacao.
+ 1 glassful of sherry.
+ Juice of 1 orange.
+ 1 slip of borage, or a slice of cucumber, or green celery-tops.
+ 1 pint of Apollinaris.
+
+
+=MOSELLE CUP=
+
+ 1 quart of Braunberger or Zeltinger.
+ 1 pony of brandy.
+ Juice of 1 orange.
+ Juice of 1 lemon.
+ 1 slip of borage or a slice of cucumber.
+ 1 pint of Apollinaris.
+ No sugar.
+
+
+=SAUTERNE CUP=
+
+Use brand "Graves."
+
+To a quart of Sauterne add the strained juice of four large lemons.
+Sweeten with powdered sugar to taste, add a cocktail glassful of brandy,
+two thirds glassful of maraschino (noyau can be used, but it is not so
+good), and a teaspoonful of Angostura bitters. Put it on ice until ready
+to use, and then, not before, add a bottle of Delatour soda, also
+chilled, or the same amount of soda from syphon. Lastly, add six thin
+slices of cucumber and a few pieces of any fruit convenient, such as
+pineapple, raspberries, strawberries, etc., and a piece of ice. Borage
+is better than cucumber for cups if it can be had.
+
+
+=CIDER CUP=
+
+ 1 pint of cider.
+ 1 sherry-glassful of sherry.
+ 1 sherry-glassful of brandy.
+ 1 liqueur-glassful of Curacao.
+ Piece of ice.
+ 1/2 of 1 orange sliced.
+ 1 yellow rind of 1 lemon.
+ 1 slice of cucumber.
+ A dash of nutmeg.
+ Sugar to taste.
+
+
+=THE THORP COCKTAIL=
+
+The following formula is for one cocktail only; the same proportions
+must be observed in making any number of them. Have the glasses well
+chilled before beginning, and always use sugar syrup instead of sugar
+for sweetening.
+
+ 1 teaspoonful of sugar syrup.
+ 1 teaspoonful of orange bitters.
+ 5 teaspoonfuls of Old Tom gin.
+ 5 drops of noyau or maraschino.
+
+Enough cracked ice to chill but not to dilute. Stir with a spoon until
+thoroughly chilled and blended. The mixture must not be shaken, as that
+fills it with air. Lastly, take a piece of lemon zest the size of a
+ten-cent piece, hold it over the cocktail, and express a little of the
+oil, then drop it in the glass.
+
+
+=EGG-NOG=
+
+Beat the yolk of one egg and a teaspoonful of sugar to a light cream;
+whip the white of the egg to a stiff froth; mix them together; turn them
+into a glass; add one teaspoonful of rum or brandy and as much milk as
+the glass will hold. Stir or shake it well together; add more sugar and
+rum if desired. Grate a dash of nutmeg over the top; whipped cream may
+be used instead of milk, and will give more nourishment when it is used
+for an invalid.
+
+
+=MILK SHAKE=
+
+Fill a glass two thirds full of milk; sweeten it to taste with any fruit
+syrup, or with a syrup made of boiled sugar flavored with vanilla,
+orange-flower water, or any liqueur; strained preserve of any kind or
+liquefied jelly may be used. Fill up the glass with cracked ice and
+shake together until well mixed.
+
+
+=MILK PUNCH=
+
+Add to a glass of milk a teaspoonful or more of sherry, brandy, or rum;
+sweeten to taste; shake well and dust over the top a little grated
+nutmeg.
+
+
+=FRUIT SYRUPS=
+
+A refreshing drink can be made of fresh strawberries, raspberries,
+cherries, or currants. Cook a quart of fruit with a pint of water until
+well softened; then strain and press out the juice through a heavy
+cloth. When cold, sweeten and dilute to taste and serve in glasses
+filled with cracked ice.
+
+
+=GRAPE-JUICE=
+
+Add a quart of water to three quarts of grapes, free from the stems; let
+them come slowly to the boiling-point; then strain through a thick
+cloth. Return the liquid to the fire, let it again come to the
+boiling-point, and turn at once into glass jars and seal immediately.
+Use a porcelain-lined kettle and wooden spoon in preparing the juice.
+
+
+=RASPBERRY VINEGAR=
+
+Put three quarts of ripe raspberries into an earthen bowl; pour over
+them a quart of vinegar; at the end of twenty-four hours press and
+strain out the liquor and turn it over another three quarts of fresh
+ripe berries. Let it stand another twenty-four hours; again express and
+strain the juice, and to each pint add a pound of sugar, and boil for
+twenty minutes. Turn it into bottles, and cork when cold. When used
+dilute the raspberry vinegar with three parts of water.
+
+
+
+KOUMISS
+
+
+Koumiss, which is simply fermented milk, can easily be made
+at home after the receipt given below, and can then be had
+sweet and is much more palatable than the acid koumiss sold
+at pharmacies. It is a valuable drink or diet for invalids
+with weak digestion, or for dyspeptics.
+
+ [Sidenote: Driving the corks.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Tying the corks.]
+
+For making koumiss it is necessary to have strong bottles
+(champagne bottles are best), and they must be scrupulously
+clean. A corking machine is requisite for driving in the
+corks. This is placed over the bottle; the cork, which has
+steamed an hour or more in hot water until softened, is
+placed in the side opening and the rammer pounded until the
+cork is free from the machine. The cork must be tied down to
+insure safety. A loop of twine is placed over it, then drawn
+tight around the neck of the bottle, brought back, and tied
+over the top of the cork.
+
+[Illustration: UTENSIL FOR DRIVING CORKS INTO BOTTLES.]
+
+[Illustration: METHOD OF TYING DOWN CORKS IN KOUMISS BOTTLES.]
+
+ [Sidenote: The champagne tap.]
+
+A champagne tap for drawing the koumiss is also necessary, as
+it contains so much gas, it is impossible to draw the cork
+without losing a good part of the contents of the bottle.
+
+[Illustration: CHAMPAGNE TAP FOR DRAWING KOUMISS OR ANY EFFERVESCING
+DRINK WITHOUT UNCORKING THE BOTTLE.]
+
+[Illustration: SHAKERS FOR MIXING ANY ICED DRINKS.]
+
+RECEIPT.--Fill quart bottles three quarters full of fresh milk; add to
+each one a tablespoonful of fresh brewer's yeast and a tablespoonful
+of sugar syrup. The syrup is made by boiling sugar and water together to
+a syrup (the sugar must be used in this form). Shake the bottles for
+some minutes to thoroughly mix the ingredients, then fill them nearly
+full with milk and shake them again. Cork and tie them, and stand them
+upright in a cool place for two and a half days; then turn them on the
+side and use as needed. They should be kept in a cool, dark place, so
+the fermentation will be slow, and the temperature should be about 52 deg.,
+or low enough to prevent the milk from souring.
+
+Brewer's yeast is best and gives the koumiss the taste of beer; but
+compressed yeast may be used, a fifth of a cake dissolved being added to
+each bottleful of milk.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVII
+
+WINES
+
+
+The temperance movement has made great advance since the days
+when it was not considered etiquette for a man to leave the
+table sober, and also from recent times when men lingered at
+the table after the ladies had withdrawn, to partake of strong
+liquors with their cigars.
+
+To-day there are some people who exclude wine entirely from
+their table, and many others who serve it only in moderation.
+It is common now to have but three kinds, such as sherry,
+claret and champagne, and sometimes only one. In this respect,
+therefore, one may follow his own conviction without fear of
+being considered peculiar.
+
+The usual order of serving wines is as follows:
+
+ [Sidenote: White wines.]
+
+With the first course of the dinner there should be served a
+white wine of some kind, such as Niersteiner, Hochheimer,
+or Liebfrauenmilch amongst the Rhine wines; Zeltinger,
+Josephshoefer, or Scharzberger Muscatel amongst the Moselle
+wines; Haut Barsac, Haut Sauterne, or Chateau Yquem amongst
+the white Bordeaux wines; and Chablis, Nuersault or Montrachet
+amongst the white Burgundies.
+
+ [Sidenote: Sherry.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Champagne.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Claret.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Burgundy.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Temperature.]
+
+Sherry is served with soup. It should be light and dry, and
+should be chilled by being placed in the ice-box for some
+time before dinner. Champagne is now served with the fish
+and continued all through dinner. Claret or Burgundy is
+served with the game. Pontet Canet, Larose, Leoville,
+Margaux, and Lafite are standard vintages amongst the
+clarets. Chambertin, Clos de Tart, Clos de Vougeot and
+Romanee amongst the Burgundies. Claret is sometimes, and
+very properly, served at the same time as champagne, as many
+people drink no other wine. In this case a higher grade of
+claret or a fine Burgundy should be served with the game.
+The white Bordeaux and Burgundy wines should be served cool.
+
+Rhine and Moselle wines are best at a temperature of about
+40 deg. F.
+
+ [Sidenote: Sweet champagne.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Care of wines.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Decanting.]
+
+The champagne should be very dry (brut) and served very cold.
+Half an hour in ice and salt before dinner will bring it to
+about the right temperature. Sweet champagnes are but seldom
+served nowadays, and are more appreciated, perhaps, at ladies'
+luncheons than at dinners. Sweet champagne cannot be too cold
+and should be frappe if convenient. Clarets and Burgundies
+should stand upright on the dining-room mantelpiece for at
+least twenty-four hours before they are required, in order
+that the wine may acquire the temperature of the room, as well
+as be prepared for decanting. Wines old in bottle will form
+more or less deposit, which, if shaken up with the wine, will
+injure it. After standing twenty-four hours the sediment will
+fall and the wine should then be decanted (with the aid of a
+candle), care being taken that no sediment passes into the
+decanter.
+
+ [Sidenote: Port.]
+
+Neither claret nor Burgundy is good the second day after
+decanting. They contain too small a percentage of alcohol to
+keep their flavor more than a few hours after the bottle is
+opened, and what remains over from dinner should be put into
+the vinegar demijohn. Ports and Madeiras are but little used
+at dinners, but may still be served with the cheese at the
+end of dinner, or with the dessert. A glass of port with a
+biscuit at five o'clock is very popular in many quarters,
+and will be welcomed by those who are afraid of tea.
+
+ [Sidenote: Madeira.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Brandy.]
+
+ [Sidenote: Liqueurs.]
+
+A fine Madeira may be served with the soup instead of
+sherry, and is the wine par excellence to drink with
+terrapin. A superior quality of brandy and various liqueurs
+are usually served with coffee. In buying wines it is always
+best to go directly to a reliable wine merchant and take his
+advice. Especially is this true when the buyer himself has
+no great knowledge of the different kinds of wines. It has
+been said that a man's wine merchant should stand in as
+close relation to him as his lawyer or his physician.
+
+
+
+
+INDEXES
+
+
+
+
+ALPHABETICAL INDEX
+
+
+ A
+
+ =Agra Dolce=, 291.
+
+ =Allemande Sauce=, 279.
+
+ =Almonds, burnt=, 520.
+ Chopping, 59.
+ Hardbake, 526.
+ Salted, 533.
+ " No. 2, 533.
+ Sugared, 520.
+ " Wafers, 478.
+
+ =Anchovy canapes=, 368.
+
+ =Angel cake=, 467.
+ Ice-cream, 497.
+ Parfait, 505.
+
+ =Angelica=, 392.
+
+ =Apples=, 530.
+ Baked for breakfast, 432.
+ " " luncheon, 432.
+ Compote of, 535.
+ Clarified, 243.
+ Charlotte, 430.
+ Dumplings, 429.
+ Flaming, 432.
+ Fritters, 427.
+ Fried with pork, 176.
+ Jelly, 544.
+ Marmalade of, 543.
+ Pie, 454.
+ Pudding, 429.
+ Sauce, 243, 288.
+ Souffle, 424.
+ With rice, 430.
+ " " No. 2, 431.
+ " Corn-starch, 432.
+
+ =Apricot Sauce=, 446.
+
+ =Artichokes=, 220.
+ Bottoms, 221.
+
+ =Asparagus=, 211.
+ Cream of, 106.
+ Tips, 212.
+
+ =Aspic jelly=, 321.
+ To chop, 323.
+ To clear, 322.
+ Chicken, 323.
+ Croutons, 323.
+ To mold, 323.
+ To ornament molds for, 324.
+ Quick, 322.
+ Of pate en Bellevue, 384.
+
+
+ B
+
+ =Baba=, 440.
+
+ =Bacon=, 178.
+ " how to cut, 78.
+
+ =Baked Apples=, 432.
+ Beans, 217, 234.
+ Custard, 396.
+ Fish, 115.
+ Ham, 177.
+ Lobster, 137.
+ Macaroni, 225.
+
+ =Baking=, 69.
+ Bread, 343.
+ Cake, 464.
+ Custards, 396.
+
+ =Balloons=, 428.
+
+ =Banana trifle=, 412.
+
+ =Bananas, sliced=, 531.
+ Sauted, fried, 531.
+
+ =Barbecue of fish=, 331.
+
+ =Bath buns=, 358.
+
+ =Batter pudding=, 428.
+
+ =Bavarian creams=, 400.
+ General directions for making, 400.
+ Chocolate, 401.
+ Diplomatic, 403.
+ Fruit, 401.
+ en surprise, 402.
+ Italian cream, 401.
+ Panachee, 402.
+ Plain, 400.
+ Rice, 402.
+
+ =Beans=, 217.
+ Baked, 217, 234.
+ Boiled, 217.
+ Croquettes of, 217.
+ Dried, 217.
+ Lima, 210.
+ Puree of, 217.
+ Salads, 377.
+ Soup, 229, 256.
+ String, 209.
+
+ =Bearnaise sauce=, 288.
+
+ =Beating=, 78.
+
+ =Bechamel sauce=, 279.
+
+ =Beef=, 146.
+ a la mode, 148.
+ Bouilli, 149.
+ Braised, 147.
+ Cold roast, 151.
+ Corned, 157, 234.
+ " hash, 158.
+ Fillet of, 149.
+ " How to buy, 150.
+ Inside flank of, 153.
+ Pie, 152.
+ Raw sandwiches, 367.
+ Ragout of, 153.
+ To roast, 146.
+ Rolled roast of, 146.
+ Round of, 147.
+ Shin of, to prepare, 250.
+ Stock, 88.
+ Tongue, 174.
+ Warmed over, 152.
+
+ =Beefsteaks=, 155.
+ To broil, 156.
+ Pie, 235.
+ Pudding, 251.
+
+ =Beets=, 217.
+
+ =Berries=, 531.
+
+ =Berry Design for molds=, 326.
+
+ =Beverages=, 548.
+
+ =Bird's-Nest salad=, 385.
+
+ =Bischoff sauce=, 447.
+
+ =Biscuits, beaten=, 247.
+ Bran, 357.
+ Dough fritters, 428.
+ Tea, 352.
+
+ =Biscuit glace=, 506.
+
+ =Bisque of lobster=, 109.
+
+ =Black bean soup=, 229.
+
+ =Blanc-mange=, 399.
+
+ =Blueberry pudding=, 241.
+
+ =Boiled beans=, 217.
+ Cabbage, 212, 253.
+ Calf's head, 175.
+ Chicken, 185.
+ Cucumbers, 218.
+ Custard, 394.
+ Eggs, 262.
+ Fish, 114.
+ Ham, 177.
+ Lobster, 136.
+ Mutton, 163.
+
+ =Boiling=, 67.
+ Sugar, 510.
+
+ =Bonbons=, 522.
+
+ =Bone, to, a fowl=, 181.
+
+ =Bones, grilled=, 188.
+ Marrow, 159.
+
+ =Boned chicken=, 182.
+ Turkey, 193.
+ Shoulder of mutton, 163.
+ Shoulder of veal, 168.
+
+ =Boning=, 77.
+
+ =Boston brown bread=, 237, 347.
+
+ =Boudins Rouennais=, 302.
+
+ =Bouilli=, 149.
+ Salad, 383.
+
+ =Bouillon=, 97.
+
+ =Bouquet for soups=, 85.
+
+ =Brains, calf=, 307.
+ Marinade of, 307.
+
+ =Braising=, 71.
+
+ =Braised beef=, 147.
+ Chicken, 186.
+
+ =Bran biscuits=, 357.
+
+ =Brandy peaches=, 543.
+ Sauce, 445.
+
+ =Bread=, 338.
+ General directions for making, 340.
+ Baking, 343.
+ Boston brown, 237, 347.
+ Braids and twists of, 350.
+ Care of, 344.
+ Cake, 482.
+ Corn, 353.
+ " soft, 247.
+ Fritters, 349.
+ Graham, 346.
+ Gluten, 347.
+ Made with baking powder, 346.
+ Milk, 345.
+ Mixing, 342.
+ Pans, 344.
+ Panada, 298.
+ Potato, 345.
+ Pulled, 349.
+ Puddings, 434.
+ Rolls, 349.
+ Sauce, 287.
+ Sticks, 357.
+ Tarts, 435.
+ Thin Indian, 236.
+ Water, No. 1, 345.
+ " No. 2, 345.
+ Whole wheat, 346.
+
+ =Bread and Butter Pudding=, 434.
+
+ =Brioche=, 359.
+ Roll, 360.
+ Crown, 360.
+ For timbales, 361.
+ Timbale of, 361.
+
+ =Brod Torte=, 472.
+
+ =Broiled Lobster=, 137.
+ Oysters, 132.
+
+ =Broiling=, 70.
+
+ =Broth, Chicken=, 95.
+ Clam, 95.
+ Mutton, 95.
+ Made quickly for invalids, 96.
+
+ =Brown Betty=, 429.
+
+ =Brown butter sauce=, 291.
+
+ =Brown sauce=, 282.
+
+ =Brown stock=, 88.
+
+ =Browned oysters=, 231.
+
+ =Brussels sprouts=, 214.
+
+ =Buckwheat cakes=, 363.
+
+ =Buns, Bath=, 358.
+ Brioche, 360.
+
+ =Burnt almonds=, 520.
+
+ =Butter=, 34, 58.
+ How to make, 258.
+
+
+ C
+
+ =Cabbage=, 212.
+ Boiled, 212, 253.
+ Hot slaw, 214.
+ With Cheese, 213.
+ Swedish, 213.
+
+ =Cabinet puddings=, 438.
+
+ =Cafe frappe=, 509.
+ Parfait, 504.
+ au lait, iced, 553.
+
+ =Cake=, 462.
+ Rules for making, 462.
+ To line tins with paper, 463.
+ To grease pans, 464.
+ To bake, 464.
+ Mixing sponge, 465.
+ Mixing batter, 465.
+ Angel, 467.
+ Almond wafers, 478.
+ Bread, 482.
+ Brod Torte, 472.
+ Cakes, small fancy, 475.
+ Carolines, 475.
+ Chocolate eclairs, 474.
+ Chocolate filling for, 469.
+ Cocoanut balls, 477.
+ Coffee, 358
+ Cookies, plain, 481.
+ Cream, 474.
+ Cream filling for, 468.
+ Cream cakes and eclairs, 473.
+ Crullers, 481.
+ Cup, plain, 470.
+ Cup, richer, 471.
+ Doughnuts, 481.
+ Eclairs, 474.
+ Election, 244.
+ Fruit, plain, 472.
+ Fruit, rich, 473.
+ Garnishing, 486.
+ Gauffres, 479.
+ Genoese, 467.
+ Gingerbread, soft, 483.
+ Gingersnaps, 481.
+ Gold and silver, 470.
+ Hoe, 246.
+ Hoe, No. 2, 247.
+ Hoe, Colonial, 237.
+ Hominy, 356.
+ Icing and decorating, 483.
+ Jelly rolls, 468.
+ Johnny, 237.
+ Jumbles, cookies, plain, 480.
+ Jumbles, 480.
+ Layer, 468.
+ Lady fingers, 476.
+ Little pound-cakes, 478.
+ Macaroons, 477.
+ Madeleines, 477.
+ Marble, 470.
+ Meringues and kisses, 475.
+ Molasses, 483.
+ One egg, 482.
+ Orange, 469.
+ Orange filling for, 469.
+ Orange quarters, 478.
+ Pound, 471.
+ Pistachio, 469.
+ Sand tarts, 480.
+ Sponge, 466.
+ Sunshine, 467.
+ Uses for stale, 411.
+ Venetian cakes, 479.
+ Warren's, 482.
+ White, 471.
+ White sponge, 467.
+ With custard, 411.
+
+ =Calf's brains=, 307.
+ a la poulette, 308.
+ a la vinaigrette, 307.
+ Head boiled, 175.
+ With vinaigrette sauce, 176.
+ Soup, 103.
+ Heart, 174.
+ Liver, 172.
+
+ =Canapes=, 368.
+ Anchovy, 368.
+ Cheese, 368, 371.
+ Ham, 368.
+ Lorenzo, 369.
+ Pineapple, 336.
+ Sardine, 368.
+
+ =Canary pudding=, 436.
+
+ =Candied fruits, California=, 392.
+
+ =Candies=, 517.
+ General remarks about making, 517.
+
+ =Candy, Molasses=, 527.
+ Peanut, 527.
+ Taffy, 527.
+
+ =Canned fruits=, 393.
+
+ =Canning=, 536.
+
+ =Canvasback ducks=, 196.
+
+ =Caper sauce=, 164, 279.
+
+ =Carafes, to freeze=, 548.
+
+ =Caramel=, 78, 391, 522.
+
+ =Carameled nuts=, 526.
+
+ =Caramels, chocolate=, 522.
+ Vanilla, coffee, maple, 522.
+
+ =Caramel custard=, 396.
+ Ice-cream, 496.
+
+ =Carrots and turnips=, 216.
+
+ =Casserole of rice=, 327.
+ Of potato, 327
+
+ =Cauliflower=, 214.
+ au gratin, 215.
+ Salad, 377.
+
+ =Celery, cream of=, 106.
+ Stewed, 216.
+ au jus, 216.
+ Salad, 376.
+ And walnut salad, 381.
+ Sauce, 279.
+
+ =Cereals=, 227.
+
+ =Chafing dish cookery=, 329.
+ Kind of, to use, 329.
+ Dishes suitable for, 330.
+ Oysters in, 233, 331.
+ Meats in, 335.
+
+ =Champagne cup=, No. 1, 555.
+ No. 2, 555.
+ Jelly, 416.
+ " with flowers, 416.
+ Sauce, 283.
+
+ =Charlotte, apple=, 430.
+ Russe, 403.
+ Filling, No. 1, 404.
+ " No. 2 (With Eggs), 405.
+ " No. 3 (With Fruit), 405.
+ " No. 4, 405.
+ " No. 5, 405.
+ " Princesse de Galles, 406.
+ Strawberry, 406.
+ Timbale of Brioche, 406.
+
+ =Chartreuse=, 83.
+ Of chicken, 190.
+ Of spinach, 211.
+
+ =Chateaubriand=, 157.
+
+ =Chaudfroid of chicken=, 191.
+ Of sweetbreads, 306.
+ Sauce, 281.
+
+ =Cheese=, 369.
+ Cottage, 373.
+ Dishes, 369.
+ " General directions for, 369.
+ Canapes, 368, 371.
+ And crackers, 371.
+ Fondue, 335.
+ Golden Buck, 372.
+ Patties, 373.
+ Sandwiches, 367.
+ Souffle, 370.
+ Straws, 372.
+ Welsh Rarebit, 371.
+
+ =Cherry bread pudding=, 241.
+
+ =Chestnuts, candied=, (marrons glace), 521.
+ Parfait of, 506.
+ Pain de marrons, 420.
+ Puree, 215, 410.
+ Stuffing, 185.
+ With cream, 410.
+
+ =Chickens=, 179.
+ To judge of, 179.
+ To clean and draw, 180.
+ To bone, 181.
+ To truss, 183.
+ a la Vienne, 189.
+ Aspic, 323.
+ Aspic with walnuts, 384.
+ Baltimore style, 189.
+ Boiled, 185.
+ Braised, 186.
+ Breasts with poulette sauce, 190.
+ Broiled, 186.
+ Broth, 95.
+ Consomme, 100.
+ Chartreuse of, 190.
+ Chaudfroid, 191.
+ Fricassee, white, brown, 186.
+ Fried, 187.
+ Fritters, 187.
+ Gumbo, 249.
+ Imperial, 189.
+ Jellied, boned, 182.
+ Legs stuffed, 188.
+ Livers, 309, 333.
+ Mayonnaise, 192.
+ Pie, English, 192.
+ Puree, 310.
+ Souffle, 190.
+ Soup, plain, 100.
+
+ =Chocolate=, 388, 553.
+ To melt, 388.
+ Bavarian, 401.
+ Caramels, 522.
+ With condensed milk, 337.
+ Cream, 397.
+ Creams, 524.
+ Custards, 395.
+ Eclairs, 474.
+ Filling for cake, 469.
+ Ice-cream, 496.
+ Icing No. 1, 484.
+ " No. 2, 485.
+ " No. 3, 485.
+ Parfait, 504.
+ Peppermints, 525.
+ Praline, 504.
+ Pudding, 398.
+ Sauce, 435, 447.
+ Souffle, 423.
+
+ =Chops cut from shoulder=, 253.
+ Fish, 121.
+ Lobster, 138.
+ Mutton, 165.
+ In paper cases, 166.
+ a la Maintenon, 167.
+ Pork, 177.
+
+ =Chow-chow=, 546.
+
+ =Chowder, clam=, 111, 230.
+ Fish, 110, 230.
+ Potato, 110.
+
+ =Christmas plum pudding=, 437.
+
+ =Cider cup=, 556.
+
+ =Clam broth=, 95.
+ Chowder, 111, 230.
+ Fritters, 136.
+ Soup, 104, 230.
+
+ =Clams=, 135.
+ To open, 135.
+ Cream of, 107.
+ Creamed, 135.
+ Roasted, 136.
+
+ =Claret cup= No. 1, 555.
+ " " No. 2, 555.
+
+ =Clarified apples=, 243.
+
+ =Clarifying fat=, 74.
+ Fruit juices, 415.
+ Jelly, 413.
+ Soups, 86.
+
+ =Club house fish balls=, 128.
+
+ =Cobblers=, 554.
+
+ =Cocoa=, 554.
+
+ =Cocoanut balls=, 477.
+ Cakes, 525.
+ Creams, 524.
+ Pie, 456.
+ Pudding, 398.
+ Sauce, 449.
+
+ =Codfish and cream=, 233.
+
+ =Codfish balls=, 128, 232.
+ Salt, 127.
+
+ =Coffee=, 551.
+ Care of beans, 551.
+ Mixtures and brands, 551.
+ To make, 551.
+ Drip, 552.
+ Cake, 358.
+ Ice-cream, 497.
+ Iced (au lait), 553.
+ Icing for eclairs, 485.
+ Jelly, 416.
+
+ =Cold chicken pie=, 192.
+ Desserts, 394.
+ Jelly sauce, 449.
+ Tongue, 175.
+ Fish, 123.
+ Roast beef, 151.
+ Slaw, 378.
+
+ =Coloring=, 392.
+ Soups, 87.
+ Sugar, 393.
+
+ =Common stock=, 87.
+
+ =Compote of apples=, 535.
+ Oranges, 536.
+ Peaches and apricots, 536.
+ Pears, 536.
+
+ =Consomme=, 98, 100.
+
+ =Cookies, plain=, 481.
+
+ =Cooking for pleasure=, 38.
+
+ =Corned beef=, 157, 234.
+ Hash, 158.
+
+ =Corn bread= (soft), 247.
+ No. 1, 353.
+ No. 2, 353.
+ Canned, 220.
+ Cream of, 106.
+ Dodgers, 247.
+ On the ear, 220.
+ Mock oysters, 220.
+ Pudding, 236.
+
+ =Cornmeal mush=, 228.
+ Fried, 224.
+
+ =Cornstarch with apples=, 432.
+ Pudding, plain, 397.
+ With canned fruit, 398.
+ cocoanut, 398.
+ chocolate, 398.
+ Chocolates, 398.
+
+ =Cottage pudding=, 435.
+
+ =Courses=, 24.
+
+ =Court bouillon=, 115.
+
+ =Crab-apple jelly=, 544.
+
+ =Crabs=, 141.
+ Deviled, 141.
+ Crabs, oyster, 143, 310.
+ Entree of, 310.
+ Soft-shell, 142.
+ Stew, 144.
+ St. Laurent, 143.
+ Stuffed with mushrooms, 142.
+ Toast, 334.
+
+ =Cracked wheat=, 228.
+
+ =Cranberry jelly=, 244.
+ Pie, 456.
+ Sauce, 287.
+
+ =Cream of asparagus=, 106.
+ Celery, 106.
+ Clams, 107.
+ Of corn, 106.
+ Of green peas, 106.
+ Of oysters, 108.
+ Of string beans, 106.
+ Cakes, 474.
+ Chicken forcemeat, No. 1, 297.
+ " " No. 2, 297.
+ Czarina, 410.
+ Devonshire, 258.
+ Dressing, 235.
+ Fried, 441.
+ Italian, 401.
+ Pie, 455.
+ To whip, 408.
+ Soups, 84, 105.
+ Whips, 409.
+
+ =Creamed clams=, 135.
+ " dishes, 332.
+ " mackerel, 127.
+
+ =Creams, chocolate=, 524.
+ Cocoanut, 524.
+ Nut, 523.
+ Peppermint, 525.
+
+ =Creme Parisienne=, 441.
+
+ =Croquenbouche of Macaroons=, 408.
+
+ =Croquettes=, 292.
+ Sauce for mixing, 293.
+ To mold, 293.
+ To fry, 294.
+ Materials used for, 295.
+ Bean, 217.
+ Egg, 272.
+ Potato, 202.
+ Sweet potato, 207.
+
+ =Croustade of shrimps=, 130.
+ Bread, 328.
+ Rolls, 328.
+
+ =Croute-au-pot=, 89.
+
+ =Croutons and croustades=, 81.
+
+ =Crullers=, 481.
+
+ =Crumbs=, 51, 75.
+
+ =Crumpets=, 355.
+
+ =Cucumbers, boiled=, 218.
+ Pickles, 545.
+ Salad for fish, 377.
+ Stuffed, 218.
+ And tomato salad, 377.
+
+ =Cup cake=, 470, 471.
+
+ =Currant jelly=, 543.
+ Shortcake, 442.
+
+ =Currants=, 531.
+
+ =Curried eggs=, 271.
+
+ =Curry=, 254.
+ Madras, 254.
+ Sauce, 284.
+
+ =Custards=, 394.
+ Baked, 396.
+ Boiled, No. 1, 394.
+ " No. 2, 395.
+ Caramel, 396.
+ Chocolate, 395.
+ " baked, 397.
+ " cream, 397.
+ Rennet, 397.
+ Sauce, boiled, 447.
+
+
+ D
+
+ =Dabs=, 238.
+
+ =Daisy designs for molds=, 326.
+
+ =Daubing=, 76.
+
+ =Decorating cakes=, 486.
+
+ =Decorations for meat jelly=, 326.
+
+ =Desserts, information pertaining to=, 386.
+ Cold, 394.
+
+ =Deviled crabs=, 141.
+
+ =Devonshire cream=, 258.
+
+ =Diplomatic Bavarian=, 403.
+ Pudding, 403.
+
+ =Dishes a la Newburg=, 139, 333.
+
+ =Doughnuts=, 481.
+
+ =Dried beans=, 217.
+ Mushrooms, 320.
+
+ =Drip coffee=, 552.
+
+ =Drippings=, 51, 59.
+
+ =Ducks, tame=, 195.
+ Canvasbacks and redheads, 196.
+ Salmi of, 196.
+
+ =Dumplings, apple=, 429.
+ With baking powder, 170.
+ " suet, 170.
+
+
+ E
+
+ =Eclairs=, 473.
+ Chocolate, vanilla, coffee, 474.
+
+ =Economical living=, 44.
+
+ =Eggs=, 58, 261.
+ a l'Aurore, 270.
+ a la Bourguinonne, 270.
+ a la Polignac, 267.
+ a la Reine, 273.
+ a la Villeroi, 269.
+ au beurre noir, 273.
+ au miroir, 266.
+ Balls for soup, 92.
+ Boiled, 262.
+ Cocotte, 266.
+ Croquettes, 272.
+ Curried, 271.
+ Fried, 264.
+ Golden cream toast, 270.
+ How to judge and keep, 261.
+ Livingston, 273.
+ Nog, 557.
+ Omelet, 264.
+ Poached, 263.
+ On anchovy toast, 268.
+ " " " (entree), 268.
+ Salads, 381.
+ Sandwiches, 366.
+ Sauce, 278.
+ Scrambled, 264.
+ Shirred, 266.
+ Stuffed, 271, 272.
+ Sur le plat, 266.
+ With tomatoes, 268, 332.
+ In tomatoes, 380.
+ To whip, 389, 463.
+ Plant, 215.
+ " stuffed, 215.
+
+ =Election cake=, 244.
+
+ =Emergencies=, 55.
+
+ =English muffins=, 355.
+
+ =Enterprise chopper=, 293.
+
+ =Entrees=, 292.
+
+ =Espagnole sauce=, 282.
+
+
+ F
+
+ =False terrapin=, 308.
+
+ =Fancy molding=, 413.
+ In aspic, 324.
+
+ =Farinaceous foods=, 222.
+
+ =Farina balls=, 223.
+ Pudding, 424.
+ Boiled, 436.
+
+ =Fat, to clarify=, 74.
+ To try out, 74.
+ Saving, 51.
+
+ =Figs=, 531.
+
+ =Fig pudding=, 438.
+
+ =Fillet of beef=, 149.
+
+ =Fillets of fish=, 112, 118, 125.
+
+ =Fillets mignon=, 157.
+ Of salmon, 130.
+
+ =Filtered water=, 548.
+
+ =Fish=, 112.
+ Balls, 128, 232.
+ " fresh, 128.
+ Baked, 115.
+ Barbecue of, 331.
+ Bones of, 112.
+ To bone and remove fillets, 112.
+ To boil, 113.
+ Time to boil, 113.
+ To boil whole, 114.
+ To serve boiled, 114.
+ Sauces for boiled, 114.
+ Court bouillon for, 115.
+ To broil, 116.
+ To carve, 113.
+ Cold, 123.
+ Cooking, 112.
+ Chops, 121.
+ Chowder, 110, 230.
+ Dish for pink luncheon, 124.
+ Dressing, 112.
+ Fillets of, 112, 118, 122, 125.
+ Fillets of, baked with custard or tomatoes, 122.
+ To fry, 117.
+ Fillets of fried, 118.
+ Freshness of, 112.
+ Frozen, 112.
+ Forcemeat of, 297.
+ Garnishing, 114.
+ Kettle, 113.
+ Keeping, 112.
+ Pudding, 123.
+ And oysters, 231.
+ Sauces for, 275.
+ Sandwiches, 366.
+ Scalloped, 120.
+ " au gratin, 121.
+ Stock and soup, 103.
+ To saute, 117.
+ Timbale, 123.
+ Trimming, 112.
+
+ =Five o'clock tea=, 33.
+
+ =Flageolets=, 210.
+
+ =Flaming apples=, 432.
+
+ =Flavoring=, 60, 80.
+ When to add, 389.
+
+ =Flavors=, 389.
+
+ =Floating Island=, 395.
+
+ =Flounder, rolled fillets of=, 125.
+
+ =Flowers for garnishing=, 393.
+
+ =Floor polish=, 260.
+
+ =Foamy sauce=, 445.
+
+ =Fondant=, 513.
+ To make, 514.
+ Bonbons of, 522.
+ Icing, 485.
+
+ =Fondue=, 335.
+
+ =Fontage cups=, 300.
+
+ =Forcemeat, chicken, cream=, 297.
+ No. 2, 297.
+ Fish, cream, 297.
+ Quenelle, 298.
+ Balls, 92.
+ For boned fowls, 183.
+
+ =Fowls, to bone=, 181.
+ To truss, 183.
+
+ =French dressing for salads=, 375.
+ Omelet, 264.
+
+ =Fricasseeing=, 71.
+
+ =Fricassee of chicken=, 186.
+ Oysters, 232.
+
+ =Fried bananas=, 531.
+ Cream, 441.
+ Corn-meal mush, 224.
+ Hominy, 224.
+
+ =Fried oysters=, 132.
+
+ =Fritters=, 426.
+ Apple, 427.
+ Batter, 426.
+ Biscuit dough, 428.
+ Bread, 349.
+ Chicken, 187.
+ Orange, 427.
+ Peach or apricot, 427.
+
+ =Frogs' legs, fried=, 313.
+ a la poulette, 313.
+
+ =Frosting, instantaneous=, 245.
+
+ =Frozen desserts=, 488.
+ Remarks about, 488.
+ Fruits, 501, 532.
+ Punches, 508.
+
+ =Fruit cake, plain=, 472.
+ Rich, 473.
+
+ =Fruits=, 529.
+ Remarks about, 529.
+ Bavarian, 401.
+ Frozen, 501, 532.
+ Ice-creams, 501.
+ Jellied, 534.
+ Juices, 534.
+ " To thicken, 389.
+ Pudding, 443, 502.
+ Salpicon of, 532.
+ " punch, 533.
+ Sauces, 446.
+ Syrups, 557.
+
+ =Frying=, 72.
+ To prepare articles for, 75.
+
+
+ G
+
+ =Galantine of turkey=, 193.
+
+ =Garnishing=, 392.
+ Boiled fish, 114.
+ Cakes, 486.
+ With flowers, 393.
+
+ =Garnishes for soups=, 92.
+
+ =Gateau St. Honore=, 407.
+
+ =Gauffres=, 479.
+
+ =Gelatine=, 60, 388.
+
+ =Gems, corn=, 354.
+ Graham, 237, 354.
+
+ =Genoese cake=, 467.
+
+ =Giblet sauce=, 185.
+
+ =Gingerbread, soft=, 483.
+
+ =Ginger snaps=, 481.
+
+ =Glace oranges and grapes=, 516.
+
+ =Glaze=, 277.
+
+ =Gluten bread=, 347.
+
+ =Gold and silver cake=, 470.
+
+ =Golden buck=, 372.
+ Cream toast, 270.
+
+ =Goose, roast=, 194.
+
+ =Graham bread=, 346.
+ Gems, 237, 354.
+
+ =Grape fruit=, 530.
+
+ =Grapes glace=, 516.
+ Juice, 557.
+ Preserved, 539.
+ Spiced, 544.
+
+ =Grease, removing from soups=, 86.
+ Saving, 51.
+
+ =Green peas=, 209.
+ Cream of, 106.
+ Timbale of, for soups, 94.
+
+ =Grilled bones=, 188.
+
+ =Grouse, roasted=, 197.
+
+ =Gumbo file=, 248.
+
+
+ H
+
+ =Halibut steaks, boiled=, 119.
+ Turkish style, 120.
+ Timbale, 303.
+
+ =Ham boiled=, 177.
+ Baked, 177.
+ And eggs, broiled, 178.
+ a l'Aurore, 178.
+ Canapes, 368.
+ Omelet, 266.
+
+ =Hamburg steaks=, 151.
+
+ =Hard sauce=, 448.
+
+ =Harlequin balls=, 522.
+ Slices for soups, 94.
+
+ =Hartford election cake=, 244.
+
+ =Hash, corned beef=, 158.
+ Brown, 159.
+
+ =Heart, calf's=, 174.
+
+ =Hoe cake=, 246.
+ No. 2, 247.
+ Colonial, 237.
+
+ =Hollandaise sauce=, 281.
+
+ =Home dinner=, 27.
+
+ =Homily on cooking=, 35.
+
+ =Hominy cake=, 356.
+ Fried, 224.
+
+ =Horseradish sauce=, 284.
+
+ =Hot slaw=, 214.
+
+
+ I
+
+ =Ices=, 508.
+ Lemon, 243, 508.
+ Orange, 508.
+ Strawberry, 508.
+
+ =Ice-creams=, 488.
+ American, 495.
+ Angel, 497.
+ Caramel, 496, 497.
+ Coffee, 497.
+ Chocolate, 496.
+ Classification of, 488.
+ Fancy molding of, 491.
+ Freezing, 490.
+ French, 495.
+ Fruit, 501.
+ General rules for making, 489.
+ Imperatrice, 505.
+ Individual, 492, 493.
+ Molding, 491.
+ Neapolitan, 498.
+ Nesselrode, 499.
+ Nut, 502.
+ Ornamental, 493.
+ Packing, 490.
+ Philadelphia, 494.
+ Pistachio, 498.
+ Plum pudding glace, 500.
+ Rice, 498.
+ Tutti frutti, 501.
+ Vanilla, 494.
+
+ =Iced tea=, 550.
+
+ =Icing, boiled=, 484.
+ Chocolate, 484, 485.
+ Coffee for eclairs, 485.
+ Fondant, 485.
+ Royal, 483.
+ " with confectioners' sugar, 484.
+ For small cakes, 485.
+ And decorating cakes, 483.
+
+ =Indian bread=, 236.
+ Pudding, 240, 241, 443.
+
+ =Individual salads=, 383.
+
+ =Inside flank of beef=, 153.
+
+ =Irish stew=, 165.
+
+ =Italian cream=, 401.
+ Jelly, 418.
+ Meringue, 498.
+
+
+ J
+
+ =Jams=, 541.
+
+ =Jam omelet=, 425.
+
+ =Jellied chicken=, 182.
+ Fruit, 534.
+ Fruits (Pain aux fruits), 419.
+ Tongue, 175.
+ Veal, 171.
+
+ =Jellies=, 412, 543.
+
+ =Jelly rolls=, 468.
+
+ =Jelly, to clarify=, 413.
+ Apple, 544.
+ Aspic, 321.
+ Berry design for mold, 326.
+ Coffee, 416.
+ Cold, sauce, 449.
+ Crab-apple, 544.
+ Cranberry, 244.
+ Champagne, 416.
+ " with flowers, 416.
+ Currant, 543.
+ Daisy design for mold, 326.
+ Dantzic, 418.
+ Decorations for meat, 326.
+ Dissolving, 412.
+ Italian, 418.
+ Lemon, 415.
+ Macedoine, 417.
+ Molding fancy, 324, 413.
+ Orange, 415.
+ Points to observe in making, 412.
+ Plum pudding, 399.
+ Proportions for, 413.
+ Prune, 243.
+ Quince, 544.
+ Ribbon, 418.
+ Rolls, 468.
+ Russian, 417.
+ Sauce, 449, 287.
+ Serving, 414.
+ Wine, 415.
+ With fruits (macedoine), 417.
+ What to do with left over, 418.
+ Whipped, 417.
+ White or blanc-mange, 399.
+ Unmolding, 324.
+
+ =Johnny cake=, 237.
+
+ =Julienne soup=, 89.
+
+ =Jumbles=, 480.
+
+
+ K
+
+ =Kidneys, stewed=, 173.
+
+ =Kisses=, 475.
+
+ =Kneading bread=, 342.
+
+ =Koumiss=, 558.
+
+
+ L
+
+ =Lady fingers=, 476.
+
+ =Lalla Rookh=, 509.
+
+ =Lamb, spring=, 167.
+
+ =Larding=, 76.
+
+ =Layer cakes=, 468.
+
+ =Lemonade=, 554.
+
+ =Lemon ice=, 243, 508.
+ Jelly, 415.
+ Sugar, 391.
+ Syrup, 391.
+
+ =Lettuce salad=, 376.
+ Stewed, 219.
+
+ =Lima beans=, 210.
+
+ =Little pound cakes=, 478.
+
+ =Liver and bacon=, 172.
+ Braised, 172.
+ Broiled, 172.
+ Loaf or false pate de foie gras, 308.
+ Saute, 255.
+
+ =Livers, chicken=, 309, 333.
+
+ =Loaf of chicken=, 191.
+ Liver, 308.
+ Veal, 171.
+
+ =Lobster=, 136.
+ To bake, 137.
+ To boil, 136.
+ To broil, 137.
+ To kill, 136.
+ To open, 137.
+ a la Newburg, 139.
+ Bisque of, 109.
+ Butter, 109.
+ Chops, 138.
+ Farci, 138.
+ Filling for patties, 140.
+ Freshness of, 136.
+ Salad, 382.
+ Salpicon of, 140.
+ Sauce, 279.
+ Season of, 136.
+ Stew, 140.
+ Stewed, 232.
+
+ =Luncheon=, 31.
+
+ =Luncheon and tea-rolls=, 351.
+
+
+ M
+
+ =Macaroni=, 224.
+ a la Albi, 236.
+ au gratin, 225.
+ Baked with cheese, 225.
+ Mrs. Maspero, 226.
+ With tomato or other sauce, 225.
+ With minced meat, 226.
+ Timbale, 302.
+ " Honeycomb, 302.
+ Sauce for, 226.
+ " No. 2, 226.
+ " No. 3, 227.
+ Soup, 89.
+
+ =Macaroons=, 477.
+
+ =Macedoine jelly=, 417.
+ Salad, 378.
+ Of vegetables, 216.
+
+ =Mackerel, salt=, 127.
+ Creamed, 127.
+
+ =Madeleines=, No. 1, 477.
+ No. 2, 478.
+
+ =Maitre d'hotel sauce=, 286.
+
+ =Marble cake=, 470.
+
+ =Marinate, to=, 79, 374.
+
+ =Marmalade=, 541.
+ Apple, 543.
+ Orange, 542.
+ Quince, 542.
+
+ =Marrow balls=, 94.
+ Bones, 159.
+
+ =Marrons, pain de=, 420.
+ Glace, 521.
+
+ =Marshmallows=, 521.
+
+ =Mayonnaise=, 288, 375.
+ Arrowroot, 290.
+ Green, 289.
+ Jelly, 290.
+ Red, 290.
+ White, 289.
+ Of chicken, 192.
+
+ =Measuring=, 77.
+
+ =Meats=, 52, 145.
+ Cooking, 145.
+ Cleaning, 145.
+ General remarks about, 145.
+ Juices of, 145.
+ Piercing, 146.
+ Scalloped, 151.
+ Sandwiches, 364.
+ Seasoning, 145.
+
+ =Menus, luncheon=, 31.
+ Inexpensive dinners, 47, 249.
+
+ =Meringues=, 475.
+
+ =Meringue sauce=, 448.
+ To sweeten, 389.
+
+ =Mignon fillets=, 157.
+
+ =Milk=, 54, 58, 389.
+ Bread, 345.
+ When scalded, 389.
+ Punch, 557.
+ Toast, 348.
+ Shake, 557.
+ Sterilized, 257.
+
+ =Millefeuilles=, 461.
+
+ =Mince pie=, 454.
+
+ =Mint sauce=, 287.
+
+ =Miscellaneous receipts=, 257.
+
+ =Mixing liquids and solids=, 59.
+
+ =Mock oysters=, 220.
+
+ =Mock turtle soup=, 103.
+
+ =Molasses cake=, 483.
+ Candy, 527.
+ Pie, 242.
+ Wafers, 482.
+
+ =Molding=, 389.
+ Articles to fry, 76.
+ Fancy, 413.
+ Jellies, 323.
+ Ice-creams, 491.
+
+ =Molds=, 60.
+ Double, 325.
+ To ornament, 324.
+
+ =Moselle cup=, 555.
+
+ =Mousses=, 506.
+ Fruit, 507.
+ Golden, 507.
+
+ =Muffins=, 355.
+ English, 355.
+ Raised, 355.
+
+ =Mushrooms, remarks about=, 45, 314.
+ Cooking, 316.
+ a la poulette, 320.
+ Agaricus campestris, 317.
+ " procerus, 318.
+ " russula, 318.
+ Boleti, 318.
+ Coprinus comatus, 318.
+ " atramentarius, 318.
+ Clavaria, 319.
+ Hydnum caput Medusae, 319.
+ Puff balls, 319.
+ Marasmius oreades, 317.
+ Scalloped, 320.
+ Sauce, 286.
+ To dry, 320.
+
+ =Mustard sauce=, 284.
+
+ =Mutton=, remarks about, 160.
+ Boiled, 163.
+ Breast of, 255.
+ Broth, 95.
+ Chops, 165.
+ " in paper cases, 166.
+ a la Maintenon, 167.
+ Leg of, 162.
+ Loin of, 162.
+ Ragout of, 164.
+ " cold boiled, 165.
+ Rechauffe of, 234.
+ Rolled loin of, 162.
+ Saddle of, 162.
+ Shoulder of, stuffed, 163.
+
+
+ N
+
+ =Nasturtium pickle=, 547.
+
+ =Neapolitan ice-cream=, 498.
+ Squares, 523.
+
+ =Nesselrode pudding=, 499.
+
+ =Noodles=, 93.
+ Balls, 93.
+ To serve as vegetables, 93.
+ Soup, 89.
+
+ =Nougat=, 518.
+ For bonbons, 518.
+ " molding, 519.
+ Soft white, 519.
+
+ =Nuts=, 532.
+ Carameled, 526.
+ Creams, 523.
+ Ice-creams, 502.
+ Salted, 533.
+
+
+ O
+
+ =Oat cake=, 356.
+
+ =Oatmeal, creamed=, 238.
+ Porridge, 227.
+
+ =Olives, to stone=, 78.
+
+ =Olive sauce=, 285.
+
+ =Omelets=, 264.
+ aux fins herbes, 266.
+ Beaten, 266.
+ Green, 266.
+ Ham, 266.
+ Jam, 425.
+ Orange, 425.
+ Plain French, 264.
+ Potato, 203.
+ With peas and tomatoes, 266.
+ Rum, 426.
+ Variations of, 265.
+ Souffle, 422.
+ Spanish, 274.
+
+ =Onions=, 219.
+ Juice, 59.
+ " how to extract, 78.
+ Soup, 105.
+ Spanish, stuffed, 219.
+
+ =Orangeade=, 554.
+
+ =Oranges=, 530.
+ Glace, 516.
+ Cake, 469.
+ Compote of, 536.
+ Fritters, 427.
+ Ice, 508.
+ Indian pudding, 241.
+ Jelly, 415.
+ Juice, 534.
+ Marmalade, 541.
+ Omelet, 425.
+ Or lemon peel candied, 391, 527.
+ Pie, 453.
+ Salad, 382.
+ Sugar, 391.
+ Syrup, 391.
+ pain d', 420.
+
+ =Oysters=, 131.
+ a la poulette, 133.
+ " Villeroi, 132.
+ Broiled, 132.
+ Browned, 231.
+ Cooking, 131.
+ " in chafing-dish, 233.
+ Crabs, 143, 310.
+ " entree of, 310.
+ Cases, 308.
+ Creamed, 331.
+ Cream of, 108.
+ Filling for patties, 134.
+ And fish, 231.
+ Fried, 132.
+ Fricassee, 232.
+ Mock, 220.
+ Panned, 133, 331.
+ Pickled, 232.
+ Raw, 131.
+ Roasted, 133.
+ Salad, 383.
+ Sauce, 279.
+ Soup, 104.
+ Scalloped, 134, 231.
+ Stew, 331.
+
+ =Ox-tail soup=, 99.
+
+ =Ovens=, 63.
+
+
+ P
+
+ =Panada, bread=, 298.
+ Flour, 298.
+
+ =Pancakes=, remarks about, 361.
+ Adirondack, 363.
+ Bread, 362.
+ Buckwheat, 363.
+ Cornmeal, 363.
+ Plain, 362.
+ Rice, 362.
+ Sweet, 426.
+
+ =Pans, bread=, 344.
+ Cake, 463, 464.
+
+ =Panned oysters=, 133, 331.
+
+ =Pain aux fruits=, 419.
+ de fraises, 419.
+ d'oranges, 420.
+ de peches, 420.
+ de marrons, 420.
+ de riz aux fruits, 419.
+ " a la princesse, 419.
+ de volaille, 300.
+
+ =Parched rice=, 223.
+
+ =Parfaits=, 489.
+ General rules for making, 502.
+ Angel, 505.
+ au cafe and praline, 504.
+ Of chestnuts, 506.
+ Maple, 504.
+ Vanilla, 503.
+
+ =Parker House rolls=, 351.
+
+ =Parsnips=, 218.
+
+ =Partridges, roasted, broiled=, 199.
+
+ =Pastry=, 451.
+ Plain, 239, 451.
+ For tarts, 452.
+ To glaze, 461.
+ Timbale, 303.
+
+ =Pate de foie gras en bellevue=, 384.
+
+ =Pate shells=, 460.
+
+ =Patties=, 305.
+
+ =Pea soup=, 102, 229.
+
+ =Peaches=, 530.
+ Compote of, 536.
+
+ =Peach-leaf flavor=, 391.
+ Fritters, 427.
+ Frozen, 501, 532.
+ Pickled, sweet, 545.
+ Preserved, 537.
+ Pudding, 241.
+
+ =Peanut candy=, 527.
+
+ =Peanuts=, 532.
+
+ =Pears, stewed=, 244.
+ Preserved, 538.
+
+ =Peppermint creams=, 525.
+ Drops, 526.
+
+ =Peppers, stuffed=, 215.
+
+ =Philadelphia ice-cream=, 494.
+
+ =Pickled oysters=, 232.
+
+ =Pickles=, 545.
+ Chow-chow, 546.
+ Cucumber or gherkins, 545.
+ Green tomato, 546.
+ Nasturtiums, 547.
+ Peaches, 545.
+ Plums, 545.
+ Walnuts, 545.
+
+ =Pies=, 450.
+ Apple, 454.
+ Beef, 152.
+ Beefsteak, 235.
+ Chicken, 192.
+ Cocoanut, 456.
+ Cranberry, 456.
+ Cream, 455.
+ Mince mixture, 454.
+ Molasses, 242.
+ Orange, 453.
+ Plain apple, 454.
+ " pastry for, 239, 451.
+ Pumpkin, 239, 454.
+ Squash, 238.
+ Tart, 452.
+ Washington, 457.
+
+ =Pigeons, potted=, 197.
+ Roasted, 197.
+
+ =Pineapple canapes=, 336.
+ Sauce, 447.
+
+ =Pine cones=, 411.
+
+ =Piquante sauce=, 283.
+
+ =Pistachio cake=, 469.
+ Flavor, 391.
+ Ice-cream, 498.
+
+ =Plain pudding sauces=, 444, 445.
+
+ =Plum-pudding=, 437.
+ Jelly, 399.
+ Glace, 500.
+ Sauce for, 501.
+
+ =Plum sauce for meats=, 444.
+
+ =Polenta=, 227.
+
+ =Pone=, 246.
+
+ =Pork=, 176.
+ And beans, 217, 234.
+ Chops, 177.
+ Roast, 176.
+
+ =Pot-pie=, 169.
+
+ =Potatoes, baked=, 204.
+ Baked with meat, 204.
+ Balls, 203.
+ " fried, 205.
+ Boiled, 201.
+ Bread, 345.
+ Broiled, 204.
+ Cakes, 201.
+ Casserole, 327.
+ Chowder, 110.
+ Creamed, 203.
+ Croquettes, 202.
+ And fish timbale, 304.
+ Fried, 205.
+ Lyonnaise, 204.
+ Mashed, 201.
+ Omelet, 203.
+ Puffed, 206.
+ Rice, 202.
+ Roses, 202.
+ Salad, 378.
+ Saratoga, 205.
+ Souffle, 202.
+ Soup, 105.
+ Straws, 205.
+ Stuffed, 204.
+ Supports for hot meats, 328.
+ Sweet, 206.
+ " baked, 206.
+ " browned, 206.
+ " Croquettes, 207.
+ " Puree of, 207.
+
+ =Poulette sauce=, 280.
+
+ =Poultry and game=, 179.
+ To clean and draw, 180.
+
+ =Pound cake=, 471.
+
+ =Pound cakes, small=, 478.
+
+ =Prairie chicken and grouse=, 197.
+
+ =Praline powder=, 505.
+
+ =Preserved citron=, 540.
+ Grapes, 539.
+ Peaches, 537.
+ " brandied, 543.
+ Pears, 538.
+ Plums, 538.
+ Raspberries, 540.
+ Strawberries, 539.
+ " No. 2, 540.
+
+ =Preserving=, 537.
+
+ =Printaniere soup=, 89.
+
+ =Prune jelly=, 243.
+ Souffle, 423.
+
+ =Pudding batter=, 428.
+ Beefsteak, 251.
+ Bermuda, 242.
+ Blueberry, 241.
+ Bread, 434.
+ " and butter, 434.
+ Brown Betty, 429.
+ Cabinet, 438.
+ " No. 2, 439.
+ " No. 3 (Royal), 439.
+ " No. 4, 440.
+ Canary, 436.
+ Chocolate, 398.
+ Cherry bread, 241.
+ Cocoanut, 398.
+ Cottage, 435.
+ Cornstarch, 397.
+ Diplomatic, 403.
+ Fig, 438.
+ Fish, 123.
+ Fruit, 443.
+ Indian, 240, 241, 443.
+ Peach, 241.
+ Plum, 437.
+ " glace, 590.
+ Rice, plain, 433.
+ " and marmalade, 242.
+ Roly-poly, 443.
+ Snow apple, 429.
+ Suet, 436.
+ Tapioca, 433.
+ Yorkshire, 147.
+
+ =Puffs or pop-overs=, 354.
+
+ =Puff-paste=, 457.
+ Rules for, 457.
+ Receipt for, 458.
+
+ =Pulled bread=, 349.
+
+ =Pumpkin pie=, 239, 454.
+
+ =Punch, frozen, general rules, for=, 508.
+ Coffee, 509.
+ Milk, 557.
+ Salpicon of fruit, 533.
+ " of California cherries, 534.
+
+ =Puree of beans=, 217.
+ Chestnuts, 185, 215.
+ Chicken, 310.
+ Fruit sauce, 447.
+
+
+ Q
+
+ =Quails broiled=, 192.
+ Roasted, 198.
+
+ =Quenelles=, 300.
+ Forcemeat, 298.
+
+ =Quick aspic=, 322.
+
+ =Quinces, baked=, 532.
+ Jelly, 544.
+ Marmalade, 542.
+
+
+ R
+
+ =Ragout of beef=, 153.
+ Of mutton, 164.
+
+ =Raisins=, 60, 389.
+
+ =Range=, 63.
+
+ =Raspberry vinegar=, 558.
+ Preserve, 540.
+
+ =Raw beef sandwiches=, 367.
+ Oysters, 131.
+
+ =Rechauffe of mutton=, 234.
+
+ =Redhead ducks=, 196.
+
+ =Refrigerator=, 62.
+
+ =Rennet custard=, 397.
+
+ =Rhode Island Johnny cake=, 237.
+
+ =Ribbon jelly=, 418.
+
+ =Rice, to boil=, 222.
+ Southern way of boiling, 248.
+ Bavarian, 402.
+ Ice-cream, 498.
+ Pancakes, 362.
+ Parched, 223.
+ Pudding No. 1, 433.
+ " No. 2, 433.
+ Lemon rice-pudding, 242.
+ And marmalade pudding, 242.
+ And raisins, 434.
+ Pudding glace, 505.
+ And tomatoes, 223.
+
+ =Rich pudding sauce=, 445.
+
+ =Richelieu sauce=, 448.
+
+ =Rissotto=, 227.
+
+ =Rissoles=, 305.
+
+ =Roast beef=, 146.
+ Cold, 151.
+
+ =Roasted oysters=, 133.
+
+ =Roasting=, 70.
+
+ =Rolled loin of mutton=, 162.
+
+ =Rolls, baking=, 344.
+ Bread, 349.
+ Cleft, 351.
+ Luncheon and tea, 351.
+ Parker House, 351.
+
+ =Roly-poly pudding=, 443.
+
+ =Rose sugar=, 391.
+
+ =Roux, to make=, 79.
+
+ =Royal icing=, 483.
+
+ =Royale=, 92.
+
+ =Rum omelet=, 426.
+ Sauce, 445.
+
+ =Rusks=, 357.
+ Dried, 358.
+
+ =Russian jellies=, 417.
+ Salad, 383.
+ Bowls, 329.
+
+
+ S
+
+ =Sabayon sauces=, 446.
+
+ =Saddle of mutton=, 162.
+
+ =Salads=, general remarks about, 373.
+ Aspic of pate en bellevue, 384.
+ " with walnuts, 384.
+ Bean, 377.
+ Bird's nest, 385.
+ Bouilli, 383.
+ Cauliflower, 377.
+ Celery, 376.
+ " and walnut, 381.
+ Chicken, 235, 382.
+ Cold slaw, 378.
+ Cucumber, 377.
+ " and tomato, 377.
+ Egg, No. 1, 381.
+ " No. 2, 381.
+ French dressing for, 375.
+ Hot slaw, 379.
+ Lettuce, 376.
+ Lobster, 382.
+ Macedoine, 378.
+ Mayonnaise dressing for, 288, 290, 375.
+ To marinate, 374.
+ Orange, 382.
+ Oyster, 383.
+ Potato, 378.
+ Russian, 383.
+ " Individual, 383.
+ Sandwiches, 366.
+ String bean, 377.
+ Sweetbreads with celery, 381.
+ Tomato No. 1, 379.
+ " and egg, 380.
+ " jelly, 380.
+ " " molded, 380.
+ Tomato stuffed, 380.
+ Water cress and apples, 376.
+
+ =Sally lunn=, 355.
+
+ =Salmi of duck or game=, 196.
+
+ =Salmon=, 128.
+ Broiled slices of, 129.
+ Canned, 129.
+ Cutlets, 129.
+ Fillets for green luncheon, 130.
+ Slices with mayonnaise, 129.
+
+ =Salpicon=, 80, 299.
+ Of fruits, 532.
+ Punch, 533.
+ Lobster, 140.
+
+ =Salt codfish=, 127.
+ Mackerel, 127.
+
+ =Salted nuts=, 533.
+
+ =Sandwiches=, remarks about, 364.
+ Shapes of, 364.
+ How to prepare meat for, 364.
+ How to prepare bread for, 365.
+ Butter, 33.
+ Cheese, 367.
+ Egg, 366.
+ Fish, 366.
+ Meat, 365.
+ Raw beef, 367.
+ Rolls, 365.
+ Salad, 366.
+ Spanish, 367.
+ Sweet, 367.
+
+ =Sardine canapes=, 368.
+
+ =Sardines, broiled=, 128.
+
+ =Sauces for meats=, 275.
+
+ =Sauces for sweet puddings=, 444.
+
+ =Sauces for cold sweet desserts=, 393.
+
+ =Sauces for macaroni, rissotto=, 226.
+
+ =Sauces for boiled fish, kinds of=, 114.
+
+ =Sauces=, 375.
+ General directions for, 275.
+ Agra dolce, 291.
+ Allemande, 279.
+ Apple, 288.
+ Bearnaise, 288.
+ Bechamel, 279.
+ Beurre Noir or Brown Butter, 291.
+ Bread, 287.
+ Brown, 282.
+ Caper, 279.
+ Celery, 279.
+ Champagne, 283.
+ Chaudfroid, 281.
+ Cranberry, 287.
+ Curry, 284.
+ Egg, 278.
+ Espagnole, 282.
+ For mixing croquettes, 293.
+ " macaroni, 223, 226.
+ Giblet, 185.
+ Glaze, 277.
+ Hollandaise, 281.
+ Horseradish, 284.
+ Jelly, 287.
+ Lobster, 279.
+ maitre d'hotel, 286.
+ Mayonnaise, 288.
+ " with arrowroot, 290.
+ " green, 289.
+ " jelly, 290.
+ " red, 290.
+ " white, 289.
+ Mint, 287.
+ Mushroom, 286.
+ Mustard, 284.
+ Olive, 285.
+ Oyster, 279.
+ Piquante, 283.
+ Poulette, 280.
+ Pudding sauces, sweet, 444.
+ Roux for, 277.
+ Soubise, 284.
+ Tartare, 290.
+ Tomato, 285.
+ Veloute, 279.
+ Villeroi, 280.
+ White, 277.
+ " for fish, 278.
+
+ =Sauce=, apricot, 446.
+ Bischoff, 447.
+ Brandy, rum, kirsch, 445.
+ Cocoanut, 449.
+ Cold jelly, 449.
+ Chocolate, 447.
+ Custard, 447.
+ Foamy, 445.
+ Fruit, 446.
+ " puree of, 447.
+ Hard, 448.
+ Meringue, 448.
+ Pineapple, 447.
+ Plain pudding, No. 1 (hot), 444.
+ Plain pudding, No. 2 (cold), 445.
+ Rich pudding, 445.
+ Richelieu, 448.
+ Sabayon, No. 1, 446.
+ " No. 2, 446.
+ Strawberry, 449.
+ Syrup, 446.
+ For plum pudding glace, 501.
+
+ =Saratoga potatoes=, 205.
+
+ =Sauteing=, 72.
+
+ =Savarins=, 440.
+
+ =Scalloped fish=, 120.
+ Meat, 151.
+ Mushrooms, 320.
+ Oysters, 231.
+ Tomatoes, 207.
+ Veal, 172.
+
+ =Scallops=, 136.
+
+ =Scotch broth=, 252.
+
+ =Scrambled eggs=, 264.
+
+ =Seasoning=, 80.
+ Meats, 145.
+
+ =Serving boiled fish=, 114.
+ Dinners, 10.
+ " the informal, 29.
+ Jellies, 414.
+ Wines, 560.
+
+ =Shad=, 125.
+ Planked, 125.
+ Spiced, 233.
+ Roe, broiled, 126.
+ " croquettes, No. 1, 126.
+ " " No. 2, 126.
+
+ =Shell fish=, 131.
+
+ =Sherbets=, 508.
+ General remarks about, 508.
+
+ =Shirred eggs=, 266.
+
+ =Shin of beef=, 250.
+
+ =Shortcake, currant=, 442.
+ Strawberry, 443.
+
+ =Shrimps, croustade of=, 130.
+
+ =Smelts a la Toulouse=, 334.
+ Broiled, 118.
+ To fry, 117.
+ Fried on skewers, 118.
+
+ =Snipe=, 198.
+
+ =Snow apple pudding=, 429.
+
+ =Snow pudding=, 417.
+
+ =Soap, to make=, 259.
+
+ =Socles=, 326.
+ Of rice, 327.
+
+ =Soubise sauce=, 284.
+
+ =Souffles=, 421.
+ Apple, 424.
+ Cheese, 370.
+ Chicken, 190.
+ Chocolate, 423.
+ Omelet, 422.
+ Potato, 202.
+ Prune, 423.
+ Spinach, 211.
+ Vanilla, 422.
+
+ =Soup=, general directions for, 84.
+ Meats, 85.
+ Vegetables, 85.
+ Inexpensive, 255.
+
+ =Garnishes for Soup=, 90, 92.
+ Forcemeat balls, 92.
+ Egg balls, 92.
+ Green pea timbale, 94.
+ Harlequin slices, 94.
+ Marrow balls, 94.
+ Noodles, 93.
+ " balls, 93.
+ Sweet potato balls, 94.
+
+ =Soup=, bean, 102.
+ Black bean, 102, 229.
+ Bouillon, 97.
+ Calf's head or mock turtle, 103.
+ Chicken, 100.
+ " consomme, 100.
+ Clam, 104, 230.
+ Croute au pot, 90.
+ Fish stock and, 103.
+ Julienne, 89.
+ Lobster bisque, 109.
+ " butter for, 109.
+ Macaroni, 89.
+ Noodle, 89.
+ Onion, 105.
+ Oyster, 104.
+ Ox-tail, 99.
+ Pea, 102, 229.
+ Potato, 105.
+ Tapioca, 90.
+ Tomato bisque, 106.
+ " puree, 101.
+ Vegetable, 89.
+ " or printaniere, 89.
+ Vermicelli, 89.
+ White, 99.
+ Broths, 95.
+ Clam, 95.
+ Chicken, 95.
+ Mutton, 95.
+ Made quickly for invalids, 96.
+ Chowders, 110.
+ Potato, 110.
+ Clam, 111, 230.
+ Fish, 110, 230.
+
+ =Soups, cream=, 105.
+ " asparagus, 106.
+ " celery, 106.
+ " clams, 107.
+ " corn, 106.
+ " green peas, 106.
+ " oysters, 108.
+ " spinach, 106.
+ " string beans, 106.
+ " a la reine, 108.
+
+ =Southern dishes=, 246.
+
+ =Spaghetti=, 225.
+
+ =Spanish omelet=, 274.
+
+ =Spanish Sandwiches=, 367.
+
+ =Spiced Grapes=, 544.
+
+ =Spinach=, 210.
+ Chartreuse of, 211.
+ Souffle, 211.
+
+ =Sponge, to make bread=, 342.
+
+ =Sponge cake=, Nos. 1, 2, 3, 466.
+ " white, 467.
+ " mixing, 465.
+
+ =Spring lamb=, 167.
+
+ =Squabs=, 197.
+
+ =Squash=, 218.
+ " Pie, 238.
+
+ =Starch molds for candies=, 525.
+
+ =Steaks, Hamburg=, 151.
+
+ =Stew, Irish=, 165.
+
+ =Stewed figs=, 531.
+ " pears, 244.
+ " kidneys, 173.
+ " lobster, 232.
+ " oysters, 331.
+
+ =Sterilized Milk=, 257.
+
+ =Sticks, bread=, 357.
+ " cheese, 369.
+
+ =Stock, soup=, 84.
+ " " brown, 88.
+ " " white, 99.
+
+ =Strawberries=, 530.
+
+ =Strawberry Cake=, 443.
+ Charlotte, 406.
+ Shortcake, 442.
+ Preserved, 539, 540.
+ Supreme of, 419.
+ Sauce, 449.
+ Ice, 508.
+ Ice-cream, 501.
+
+ =Stirring=, 78.
+
+ =Store-closet=, 55, 394.
+
+ =Strainers=, 60.
+
+ =String beans=, 209.
+ " salad, 377.
+
+ =Stuffing for baked fish=, 116.
+ " " Boned fowls, 183.
+ " " fowls, 184.
+ chestnut, 185.
+
+ =Stuffed chicken legs=, 188.
+ Cucumbers, 218.
+ Eggs, 271, 272.
+ Egg-plant, 215.
+ Mushrooms, 309.
+ Peppers, 215.
+ Potatoes, 204.
+ Shoulder of mutton, 163.
+ " " veal, 168.
+ Spanish onions, 219.
+ Tomatoes, 207.
+
+ =Succotash=, 220.
+
+ =Suet, to try out=, 74.
+ Chopping, 59.
+ Pudding, 436.
+
+ =Sugar and its uses=, 510.
+ Boiling, 510.
+ " degrees of, 512.
+ Colored for garnishing, 393.
+ " how to make, 393.
+ Creams, 524.
+ Spun, 515.
+ " directions for making, 515.
+ Syrup, 503.
+ Syrups, 513.
+
+ =Sugared Almonds=, 520.
+
+ =Sunshine Cake=, 467.
+
+ =Supply closet=, 62.
+
+ =Supports for hot meats=, 328.
+
+ =Sweetbreads, to prepare=, 305.
+ a la poulette, 306.
+ Baked, 306.
+ Braised, 306.
+ Chaudfroid of, 306.
+ Fried, 306.
+ Salad, 381.
+ Sauted, 306.
+
+ =Sweet pancakes=, 426.
+
+ =Sweet potatoes=, baked, 206.
+ balls for soup, 94.
+ boiled, 206.
+ browned, 206.
+ croquettes, 207.
+ Puree of, 207.
+
+ =Sweet sandwiches=, 367.
+
+ =Swedish cabbage=, 213.
+
+ =Syrups, fruit=, 557.
+ sauce, 446.
+ sugar, 503, 513.
+
+
+ T
+
+ =Table, laying the=, 13.
+ Time, inside of cover.
+ Weights and measures, 387.
+
+ =Taffy=, 527.
+
+ =Tapioca=, Soup, 90.
+ and apples, 252.
+ Pudding, 433.
+
+ =Tartare sauce=, 290.
+
+ =Tart bands=, 460.
+ bread, 435.
+ Pies, 452.
+
+ =Tartlets=, 461.
+ Paganini, 461.
+
+ =Tea=, 549.
+ Five o'clock, 33.
+ Iced, 550.
+ Biscuits, 352.
+ " with sour milk, 352.
+
+ =Terrapin=, 311.
+ a la Newburg, 313.
+ General rules about, 311.
+ Maryland style, 313.
+ False, 308.
+
+ =Thickening for soup=, 90.
+
+ =Things to remember=, 58.
+
+ =Timbales=, 296.
+ To mold and cook, 298.
+ Fish, 123.
+ Halibut, 303.
+ Honeycomb, 302.
+ Macaroni, 302.
+ of brioche, 361.
+ Pastry, 303.
+ Potato and fish, 304.
+
+ =Toast=, 348.
+ milk, 348.
+
+ =Tomato bisque=, 106.
+ broiled, 208.
+ Farci, 208.
+ Jelly, 380.
+ Puree, 101.
+ Roasted, 208.
+ Salads, 379, 380.
+ Sauce, 285.
+ Scalloped, 207.
+ Stewed, 207.
+ Stuffed, 207.
+ " with eggs, 380.
+ and rice, 223.
+
+ =Tongue, beef=, 174.
+ cold, 175.
+ Hot sliced, 174.
+ Jellied, 175.
+
+ =Trifle=, 411.
+ Banana, 412.
+
+ =Tripe=, 173.
+
+ =Truffles=, 296.
+ To decorate with, 326.
+
+ =Turkey=, 193.
+ Boned, 193.
+ Galantine, 193.
+
+ =Turnips=, 160, 216.
+
+ =Tutti Frutti=, 501.
+
+
+ U
+
+ =Uses for stale cake=, 411.
+
+ =Utensils, care of=, 61.
+ For desserts, 386.
+
+
+ V
+
+ =Vanilla souffle=, 422.
+ Ice-cream, 494.
+ Sugar, 391.
+
+ =Veal=, 168.
+ Cutlets, 169.
+ Fricandeau, 169.
+ Jellied, 171.
+ " Loaf, 171.
+ Roast fillet of, 168.
+ Scallop, 172.
+ Stuffed shoulder of, 168.
+ With white sauce, 253.
+
+ =Vegetables=, general remarks about, 200.
+ Soup, 101.
+ for soup, 85.
+ Macedoine of, 216.
+
+ =Veloute sauce=, 279.
+
+ =Venetian cakes=, 479.
+
+ =Venison=, 199.
+ " steak, 199.
+
+ =Vermicelli soup=, 89.
+
+ =Villeroi sauce=, 280.
+
+ =Vol-au-vent=, 304.
+
+
+ W
+
+ =Wafers, molasses=, 482.
+
+ =Waffles=, 356.
+
+ =Walnuts, pickled=, 545.
+ English, salted, 533.
+
+ =Warren's Cake=, 482.
+
+ =Washington Pie=, 457.
+
+ =Wastefulness=, 50.
+
+ =Water=, 548.
+
+ =Water-cress salad=, 376.
+
+ =Water-Ices=, 508.
+
+ =Weights and measures=, 387.
+
+ =Welsh rabbit=, 371.
+
+ =Wheat, cracked=, 228.
+ Whole, bread, 346.
+
+ =Whips=, 409.
+
+ =Whipped Cream=, 408.
+ Jelly, 417.
+
+ =Whitebait=, 118.
+
+ =White cake=, 471.
+ Jelly, 399.
+ Soup, 99.
+ Stock. 99.
+
+ =Wines, serving=, 560.
+
+ =Wine jelly=, 415.
+
+ =Woodcock=, 198.
+
+ =Wooden spoons=, 330.
+
+
+ Y
+
+ =Yeast=, 338.
+ Remarks about, 338.
+ Dick Bennet's, 339.
+ Receipt No. 2, 339.
+
+ =Yorkshire Pudding=, 147.
+
+
+ Z
+
+ =Zephyrs=, 238.
+
+ =Zwieback=, 349.
+
+
+
+
+GENERAL INDEX
+
+
+PART I.
+
+ Dinner-giving and the etiquette of dinners, 1.
+
+ Manner of serving dinners, 10.
+
+ Laying the table, 13.
+
+ Table decoration, 17.
+
+ Courses, 24.
+
+ The home dinner, 27.
+
+ Serving the informal dinner, 29.
+
+ Luncheon, 31.
+
+ The five o'clock tea, 33.
+
+ A homily on cooking, 35.
+
+ Cooking as a pleasure and an accomplishment, 38.
+
+ To train a green cook, 40.
+
+ Economical living, 44.
+
+ Mushrooms, 45, 314.
+
+ Menus. "Al Fresco" dinner, 23.
+ " Luncheon, 31.
+ " Economical living, 47, 252.
+
+ Wastefulness, 50.
+
+ How to utilize what some cooks throw away, 51.
+ Bread, 51.
+ Fat, 51.
+ Bones, 51.
+ Tough pieces, 52.
+ Small pieces, 52.
+ Cold meats, 52.
+ Eggs, 52.
+ General odds and ends, 53.
+ Cereals, 53.
+ Vegetables, 53.
+ Sour milk, 54.
+ Fruits, 54.
+ Cheese, 54.
+
+ Emergencies, 55.
+
+
+_Things to Remember._
+
+ Items about
+ Eggs, 58.
+ Milk, 58.
+ Butter, 58.
+ Crumbs, 58.
+ Meats, 59.
+ Drippings, 59.
+ Onion juice, 59.
+ Chopping suet, 59.
+ " almonds, 59.
+ Mixing liquids and solids together, 59.
+ Gelatine, 60.
+ Molds, 60.
+ Strainers, 60.
+ To keep dishes warm, 60.
+ Flavoring, 60.
+ Raisins, 60.
+ Baking, 60.
+ Utensils, care of, 61.
+ " cleaning, 61.
+ Tins, sieves, woodenware, 62.
+ Tins, arrangement of, 62.
+ Supply closet, 62.
+ Refrigerator, 62.
+ Coal and range, 63.
+ Ovens, 63.
+
+
+PART II.
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+_Methods of Cooking Explained._
+
+ Boiling, 67.
+
+ Baking, 69.
+
+ Roasting, 70.
+
+ Broiling, 70.
+
+ Braising, 71.
+
+ Fricasseeing, 71.
+
+ Sauteing, 72.
+
+ Frying, 72.
+
+ To clarify fat, 74.
+
+ To try out suet and other fats, 74.
+
+ To prepare articles for frying by covering them with egg and crumbs, 75.
+
+ The crumbs, 75.
+
+ The egg, 75.
+
+ The molding, 76.
+
+ Larding, 76.
+
+ Daubing, 76.
+
+ Boning, 77.
+
+ Measuring, 77.
+
+ Stirring and beating, 78.
+
+ How to stone olives, 78.
+
+ How to cut bacon, 78.
+
+ How to extract onion juice, 78.
+
+ Caramel, 78.
+
+ To make roux, 79.
+
+ To marinate, 79.
+
+ Salpicon, 80.
+
+ Seasoning and flavoring, 80.
+
+ Croutons and croustades, 81.
+
+ Chartreuse, 83.
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+_Soups._
+
+ General directions for preparing soups, including directions for
+ Brown stock, 84, 88.
+ White stock, 84, 99.
+ Chicken consomme, 100.
+ Cream soups, 85, 105.
+ Soup meats, 85.
+ " vegetables, 85.
+ The bouquet, 85.
+ Proportions, 85.
+ The order of preparation, 85.
+ Removing the grease, 86.
+ Clarifying, 86.
+ Coloring, 87.
+ Meat stock, 87.
+ Common stock (pot-au-feu), 87.
+ Beef or brown stock, 88.
+ Macaroni soup, 89.
+ Noodle soup, 89.
+ Vermicelli soup, 89.
+ Vegetable or printaniere soup, 89.
+ Julienne soup, 89.
+ Tapioca soup, 90.
+ Croute au pot, 90.
+ Garnishes for soup, 90.
+ Thickening for soup, 90.
+ Garnishes for soups, 92.
+ Royale, 92.
+ Forcemeat balls, 92.
+ Egg, 92.
+ Egg balls, 92.
+ Noodles, 93.
+ " to serve as a vegetable, 93.
+ Noodle balls, 93.
+ Marrow balls, 94.
+ Sweet potato balls, 94.
+ Green pea timbale, 94.
+ Harlequin slices, 94.
+
+_Broths._
+
+ Chicken broth, 95.
+
+ Clam broth, 95.
+
+ Mutton broth, 95.
+
+ Broth made quickly for invalids, 96.
+
+_Soups._
+
+ Bouillon, 97.
+
+ Consomme, 98.
+
+ Ox-tail soup, 99.
+
+ White stock, 99.
+
+ White soup, 99.
+
+ Chicken consomme, 100.
+
+ Plain chicken soup, 100.
+
+ Vegetable soup, 101.
+
+ Tomato puree, 101.
+
+ Split-pea or bean soup, 102.
+
+ Black bean soup, 102.
+
+ Calf's head or mock turtle, 103.
+
+ Fish stock, 103.
+
+ Oyster soup, 104.
+
+ Clam soup, 104.
+
+_Cream Soups._
+
+ Onion soup, 105.
+
+ Potato soup, 105.
+
+ Tomato bisque, 106.
+
+ Cream of asparagus, 106.
+ Green peas, 106.
+ String beans, 106.
+ Spinach, 106.
+ Corn, 106.
+ Celery, 106.
+ Clams, 107.
+ Oysters, 108.
+
+ Soup a la reine, 108.
+
+ Bisque of lobster, 109.
+
+ Lobster butter, 109.
+
+_Chowders._
+
+ Potato chowder, 110.
+
+ Fish chowder, 110.
+
+ Clam chowder, 111.
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+_Fish._
+
+ Cooking, 112.
+
+ Freshness, 112.
+
+ Dressing, 112.
+
+ Keeping, 112.
+
+ Frozen fish, 112.
+
+ Trimming, 112.
+
+ The bones, 112.
+
+ To skin, bone, and remove fillets, 112.
+
+ To carve, 113.
+
+ To boil, 113.
+
+ Time to boil, 113.
+
+ The kettle, 113.
+
+ To boil a fish whole, 114.
+
+ Serving boiled fish, 114.
+
+ Garnishing boiled fish, 114.
+
+ Sauces used for boiled fish, 114.
+
+ Court bouillon, 115.
+
+ Baked fish, 115.
+
+ Stuffings for baked fish, 116.
+
+ To broil fish, 116.
+
+ To saute fish, 117.
+
+ To fry fish, 117.
+
+ To fry smelts, 117.
+
+ Fried smelts on skewers, 117.
+
+ Fried fillets of fish, 118.
+
+ Smelts broiled, 118.
+
+ Whitebait, 118.
+
+ Boiled halibut steaks, 119.
+
+ Halibut, Turkish style, 120.
+
+ Scalloped fish, 120.
+ Au gratin, 121.
+
+ Fish chops, 121.
+
+ Fillets baked with custard or tomatoes, 122.
+
+ Cold fish, 123.
+
+ Fish pudding, 123.
+
+ Fish timbale, 123.
+
+ Fish dish for pink luncheon, 124.
+
+ Rolled fillets of flounder, 125.
+
+ Shad, 125.
+
+ Planked shad, 125.
+
+ Broiled shad roe, 126.
+
+ Shad roe croquettes, No. 1, 126.
+ No. 2, 126.
+
+ Salt mackerel, 127.
+
+ Creamed mackerel, 127.
+
+ Salt codfish, 127.
+
+ Club house fish balls, 128.
+
+ Broiled sardines on toast, 128.
+
+ Fresh fish balls, 128.
+
+ Salmon, 128.
+
+ Canned salmon, 129.
+
+ Salmon cutlets, 129.
+
+ Broiled slices of salmon, 129.
+
+ Slices of salmon with mayonnaise, 129.
+
+ Fillets of salmon for green luncheon, 130.
+
+ Croustade of shrimps, 130.
+
+_Shell-fish, Lobsters, and Crabs._
+
+ Oysters, 131.
+
+ Raw oysters, 131.
+
+ Precaution, 131.
+
+ Cooking, 131.
+
+ Fried oysters, 132.
+
+ Oysters a la Villeroi, 132.
+
+ Broiled oysters, 132.
+
+ Panned oysters, 133.
+
+ Roasted oysters, 133.
+
+ Oysters a la poulette, 133.
+
+ Scalloped oysters, 134.
+
+ Oyster filling for patties, 134.
+
+ Clams, 135.
+
+ To open clams, 135.
+
+ Creamed clams, 135.
+
+ Roasted clams, 136.
+
+ Clam fritters, 136.
+
+ Scallops, 136.
+
+ Lobsters, 136.
+
+ Season, 136.
+
+ Freshness, 136.
+
+ To kill a lobster, 136.
+ Boil a lobster, 136.
+ Open a lobster, 137.
+ Broil a lobster, 137.
+ Bake a lobster, 137.
+
+ Lobster farci, 138.
+ Chops, 138.
+ a la Newburg, 139.
+ Stew, 140.
+ Filling for patties, 140.
+
+ Salpicon of lobster, 140.
+
+ Crabs, 141.
+
+ Deviled crabs, 141.
+
+ Stuffed crabs with mushrooms, 142.
+
+ Soft-shell crabs, 142.
+
+ Oyster-crabs, 143.
+
+ Crabs St. Laurent (chafing-dish), 143.
+
+ Crab stew, 144.
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+_Meats._
+
+ General remarks, 145.
+
+ Slow cooking, 145.
+
+ Juices, 145.
+
+ Degree of cooking, 145.
+
+ Cleaning, 145.
+
+ Seasoning, 145.
+
+ Piercing, 146.
+
+_Beef._
+
+ To roast beef, 146.
+
+ Rolled roast beef, 146.
+
+ Yorkshire pudding, 147.
+
+ Round of beef, 147.
+
+ Braised beef, 147.
+
+ A la mode, 148.
+
+ Bouilli, 149.
+
+ Fillet of beef, 149.
+
+ How to buy a fillet, 150.
+
+ Cold roast beef, 151.
+
+ Scalloped meat, 151.
+
+ Hamburg steaks, 151.
+
+ Beef pie, 152.
+
+ Warmed-over beef (chafing-dish), 152.
+
+ Inside flank, 153.
+
+ Ragout of beef, 153.
+
+ Beefsteaks, 155.
+
+ To broil a beefsteak, 156.
+
+ Chateaubriand, 157.
+
+ Mignon fillets, 157.
+
+ Corned beef, 157.
+
+ Corned beef hash, 158.
+
+ Hash, 158.
+
+ Brown hash, 159.
+
+ Marrow bones, 159.
+
+_Mutton._
+
+ Remarks about mutton, 160.
+
+ Roast leg of mutton, 162.
+ Loin of mutton, 162.
+ Saddle of mutton, 162.
+
+ Rolled loin of mutton, 162.
+
+ Shoulder of mutton stuffed, 163.
+
+ Boiled mutton, 163.
+
+ Caper sauce, 164.
+
+ Ragout of mutton or lamb, 164.
+ of Cold boiled mutton, 165.
+
+ Irish stew, 165.
+
+ Mutton chops, 165.
+
+ Chops in paper cases, 166.
+ a la Maintenon, 167.
+
+ Spring lamb, 167.
+
+_Veal._
+
+ Remarks about veal, 168.
+
+ To roast fillet of veal, 168.
+
+ Stuffed shoulder of veal, 168.
+
+ Fricandeau of veal, 169.
+
+ Veal cutlets, 169.
+
+ A plain pot-pie, 169.
+
+ Dumplings with baking-powder, 170.
+
+ Dumplings with suet, 171.
+
+ Jellied veal, 171.
+
+ Veal loaf, 171.
+
+ Veal scallop, 171.
+
+ Liver and bacon, 172.
+
+ Broiled liver, 172.
+
+ Braised liver, 172.
+
+ Stewed kidneys, 173.
+
+ Tripe, 173.
+
+ Calf's heart, 174.
+
+ Beef's tongue, 174.
+
+ Hot sliced tongue, 174.
+
+ Cold tongue, 175.
+
+ Jellied tongue, 175.
+
+ Boiled calf's head, 175.
+
+ Calf's head with vinaigrette sauce, 176.
+
+_Pork._
+
+ Roast pork, 176.
+
+ Fried apples, 176.
+
+ Pork Chops, 177.
+
+ Boiled ham, 177.
+
+ Baked ham, 177.
+
+ Broiled ham and eggs, 178.
+
+ Ham and eggs a l'aurore, 178.
+
+ Bacon, 178.
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+_Poultry and Game._
+
+ Chickens, 179.
+
+ To judge of chickens, 179.
+
+ To clean and draw poultry, 180.
+
+ To bone a fowl, 181.
+
+ Roasted boned chicken, 182.
+
+ Braised boned chicken, 182.
+
+ Jellied boned chicken, 182.
+
+ Forcemeat or stuffing for boned fowls, 183.
+
+ To truss a fowl, 183.
+
+ Roasted chicken, 184.
+
+ Stuffing for fowls, 184.
+
+ Chestnut stuffing, 185.
+
+ Giblet sauce, 185.
+
+ Boiled chicken, 185.
+
+ Braised chicken, 186.
+
+ Broiled chicken, 186.
+
+ Fricasseed chicken, white and brown, 186.
+
+ Fried chicken, 187.
+
+ Chicken fritters, 187.
+
+ Stuffed chicken or turkey legs, 188.
+
+ Grilled bones, 188.
+
+ Chicken a la Vienne, 189.
+ Baltimore style, 189.
+ Imperial, 189.
+ Breasts with poulette sauce, 190.
+ Chartreuse, 190.
+ Souffle, 190.
+ Loaf, 191.
+ Chaudfroid, 191.
+ Mayonnaise, 192.
+
+ English chicken pie (cold), 192.
+
+ Turkey, 193.
+ Galantine or boned turkey, 193.
+
+ Roast goose, 194.
+
+ Tame ducks, 195.
+
+_Game._
+
+ Canvasbacks and redhead ducks, 196.
+
+ Salmi of duck or game, 196.
+
+ Potted pigeons, 197.
+
+ Roasted pigeons or squabs, 197.
+
+ Prairie chicken or grouse, roasted, 197.
+
+ Quails roasted, 198.
+ Broiled, 198.
+
+ Snipe and woodcock, roasted, 198.
+
+ Partridges, roasted and broiled, 199.
+
+ Venison, 199.
+ Steak, 199.
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+_Vegetables._
+
+ General directions, 200.
+
+ Potatoes, boiled, 201.
+ Mashed, 201.
+ Cakes, 201.
+ Rice, 202.
+ Souffle, 202.
+ Roses, 202.
+ Croquettes, 202.
+ Balls, 203.
+ Omelet, 203.
+ Creamed, 203.
+ Broiled, 204.
+ Baked, 204.
+ Stuffed, 204.
+ Baked with meat, 204.
+ Lyonnaise, 204.
+ Fried, 205.
+ Balls, fried, and straws, 205.
+ Saratoga, 205.
+ Puffed, 206.
+
+ Sweet potatoes boiled, 206.
+ " Baked, 206.
+ " Browned, 206.
+ " Croquettes, 207.
+ " Puree, 207.
+
+ Tomatoes, stewed, 207.
+ Scalloped, 207.
+ Stuffed, 207.
+ Roasted, 208.
+ Broiled, 208.
+ Farci, 208.
+
+ Green peas, 209.
+
+ Puree of peas, 209.
+
+ String beans, 209.
+
+ Flageolets, 210.
+
+ Lima beans, 210.
+
+ Spinach, 210.
+ Souffle, 211.
+
+ Chartreuse of spinach or cabbage, 211.
+
+ Asparagus, 211.
+ Tips, 212.
+
+ Cabbage, 212.
+
+ Boiled cabbage, 212.
+ with cheese, 213.
+ Swedish, 213.
+
+ Hot slaw, 214.
+
+ Brussels sprouts, 214.
+
+ Cauliflower, 214.
+ au gratin, 215.
+
+ Egg-plant, 215.
+ Stuffed, 215.
+
+ Peppers, stuffed, 215.
+
+ Chestnut puree, 215.
+
+ Celery, stewed, 216.
+ au jus, 216.
+
+ Carrots and turnips, 216.
+
+ Macedoine of vegetables, 216.
+
+ Dried beans, 217.
+
+ Boiled " 217.
+
+ Baked " 217.
+
+ Puree of beans, 217.
+
+ Croquettes of Beans, 217.
+
+ Beets, 217.
+
+ Summer squash, 218.
+
+ Parsnips, 218.
+
+ Cucumbers, boiled, 218.
+ Stuffed, 218.
+
+ Lettuce stewed, 219.
+
+ Onions, 219.
+
+ Spanish onions, stuffed, 219.
+
+ Corn on the ear, 220.
+ Mock oysters, 220.
+ Canned, 220.
+
+ Succotash, 220.
+
+ Artichokes, 220.
+ Bottoms, 221.
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+_Farinaceous Foods used as Vegetables--Receipts for Macaroni--Cereals._
+
+ To boil rice, 222.
+
+ Rice and tomatoes, 223.
+
+ Parched rice, 223.
+
+ Farina balls, 223.
+
+ Hominy fried, 224.
+
+ Cornmeal mush fried, 224.
+
+_Receipts for Macaroni._
+
+ Macaroni, 224.
+
+ Spaghetti, 225.
+
+ Baked macaroni with cheese, 225.
+ " au gratin, 225.
+ " with tomato or other sauces, 225.
+
+ Baked macaroni with minced meat, 226.
+
+ Receipt for macaroni from Mrs. Maspero, 226.
+
+ Sauce for macaroni, for rissotto, and for polenta, 226.
+
+ Sauce for macaroni No. 2, 226.
+ " " " 3, 227.
+
+ Polenta, 227.
+
+ Risotto, 227.
+
+_Cereals._
+
+ Oatmeal porridge, 227.
+
+ Cracked wheat, 228.
+
+ Cornmeal mush, 228.
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+_A Group of Receipts from a New England Kitchen._
+
+ Split-pea soup, 229.
+
+ Black bean soup, 229.
+
+ Clam soup, 230.
+
+ Clam chowder, 230.
+
+ Fish chowder, 230.
+
+ Browned oysters, 231.
+
+ Fish and oysters, 231.
+
+ Scalloped oysters, 231.
+
+ Pickled oysters, 232.
+
+ Fricasseed oysters, 232.
+
+ Stewed lobster, 232.
+
+ Fish balls, 232.
+
+ Codfish and cream, 233.
+
+ Oysters on a chafing-dish, 233.
+
+ Pilau, 233.
+
+ Spiced shad, 233.
+
+ Pork and beans, 234.
+
+ A rechauffe of cold mutton, 234.
+
+ Corned beef, 234.
+
+ A beefsteak pie, 235.
+
+ Easy chicken salad, 235.
+
+ Cream dressing, 235.
+
+ Macaroni a l'albi, 236.
+
+ Corn pudding, 236.
+
+ Thin Indian bread, 236.
+
+ Graham gems, 237.
+
+ Colonial hoe-cakes, 237.
+
+ Rhode Island johnny-cake, 237.
+
+ Boston brown bread, 237.
+
+ Dabs, 238.
+
+ Cream oatmeal, 238.
+
+ Zephyrs, 238.
+
+ Squash pies, 238.
+
+ Pumpkin pies, 239.
+
+ A rule for simple pie-crust, 239.
+
+ A boiled Indian pudding, 240.
+
+ A baked Indian pudding, 240.
+
+ Orange Indian pudding, 241.
+
+ Blueberry pudding, 241.
+
+ A peach pudding, 241.
+
+ Cherry bread, 241.
+
+ Lemon rice pudding, 242.
+
+ Bermuda pudding, 242.
+
+ Rice and marmalade pudding, 242.
+
+ Molasses pie, 242.
+
+ Prune jelly with almonds, 243.
+
+ Clarified apples, 243.
+
+ Lemon ice, 243.
+
+ Apple sauce, 243.
+
+ Stewed pears, 244.
+
+ Cranberry jelly, 244.
+
+ Hartford election cake, 244.
+
+ Instantaneous frosting, 245.
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+_Distinctively Southern Dishes._
+
+ General remarks, 246.
+
+ Pone, 246.
+
+ Hoe-cake No. 1, 246.
+ No. 2, 247.
+
+ Kentucky corn dodgers, 247.
+
+ Maryland beaten biscuits, 247.
+
+ Soft corn bread, 247.
+
+ Southern way of cooking rice, 248.
+
+ Chicken gumbo, 249.
+
+ Gumbo file (New Orleans), 248.
+
+_Very Inexpensive Dishes._
+
+
+ Very inexpensive dinners, 249.
+
+ To prepare a shin of beef, 250.
+ " " " another way, 250.
+
+ Beefsteak pudding, 251.
+
+ Menus for inexpensive dinners, 252.
+
+ Scotch broth, 252.
+
+ Tapioca and apples, 252.
+
+ Veal with white sauce, 253.
+
+ Purified cabbage, 253.
+
+ Chops cut from the shoulder, 253.
+
+ Apple dumplings, 253.
+
+ Curry, 254.
+
+ Madras curry, 254.
+
+ Liver saute, 255.
+
+ Breast of mutton, 255.
+
+ Tomato soup, 255.
+
+ Carrot " 256.
+
+ Potato " 256.
+
+ Bean " 256.
+
+ Celery " 256.
+
+_Miscellaneous receipts._
+
+ Sterilized milk, 257.
+
+ Devonshire cream, No. 1, 258.
+ " " No. 2, 258.
+
+ To make fresh butter, 258.
+
+ To make white hard soap, 259.
+
+ Floor polish, 260.
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+_Eggs._
+
+ To judge of freshness, and how to preserve eggs, 261.
+
+ Boiled eggs, 262.
+ " " 1, 262.
+ " " 2, 262.
+ " " 3, 262.
+
+ Poached eggs, No. 1, 263.
+ " " No. 2, French style, 263.
+ " " No. 3, 263.
+
+ Fried " 264.
+
+ Scrambled, 264.
+
+ Plain French omelet, 264.
+
+ Variations of the, 265.
+ No. 1, 265.
+ No. 2, 265.
+ No. 3, green, 266.
+ No. 4, aux fines herbes, 266.
+ No. 5, with peas or tomatoes, 266.
+ No. 6, with ham, 266.
+
+ Beaten omelet, 266.
+
+ Shirred eggs, 266.
+ sur le plat, 266.
+ au miroir, 266.
+ cocotte, 266.
+
+ Molded eggs, 267.
+ a la polignac, 267.
+
+ Ham and eggs, 268.
+
+ Poached eggs on anchovy toast (supper dish), 268.
+
+ Poached eggs on anchovy toast (entree for luncheon), 268.
+
+ Poached egg with tomato, 268.
+
+ Eggs a la villeroi (entree for luncheon), 269.
+
+ Egg a la Bourguinonne, 270.
+ " a l'aurore, 270.
+
+ Golden cream toast, 270.
+
+ Curried eggs, 271.
+
+ Stuffed " No. 1, 271.
+ " " " 2, 272.
+
+ Egg croquettes, 272.
+
+ Other ways of serving hard-boiled eggs, 272.
+
+ Tomatoes stuffed with eggs, 272.
+
+ OEufs a la reine, }
+ } Downtown club, N.Y., 273.
+ Eggs Livingston, }
+
+ Eggs au beurre noir, 273.
+
+ Spanish omelet, 274.
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+_Sauces._
+
+ General directions, 275.
+
+ Glaze, 277.
+
+ Roux for sauces, 277.
+
+ White sauce, 277.
+ " " for fish, 278.
+
+ Egg " 278.
+
+ Caper " 279.
+
+ Oyster " 279.
+
+ Celery " 279.
+
+ Lobster " 279.
+
+ Veloute and allemande, 279.
+
+ Bechamel, 279.
+
+ Poulette, 280.
+
+ Villeroi, 280.
+
+ Hollandaise, 281.
+
+ Chaudfroid, 281.
+
+ Brown sauce, 282.
+
+ Espagnole, 282.
+
+ Champagne sauce, 283.
+
+ Piquante " 283.
+
+ Soubise " 284.
+
+ Horseradish " 284.
+
+ Mustard " 284.
+
+ Curry " 284.
+
+ Olive " 285.
+
+ Tomato " 285.
+
+ Mushroom " 286.
+
+ Maitre d'hotel, 286.
+
+ Mint sauce, 287.
+
+ Bread sauce, 287.
+
+ Jelly sauce, 287.
+
+ Cranberry sauce, 287.
+
+ Apple, 288.
+
+ Bearnaise, 288.
+
+ Mayonnaise, 288.
+ White, 289.
+ Green, 289.
+ Red, 290.
+ Jelly, 290.
+ With arrowroot, 290.
+
+ Tartare, 290.
+
+ Agra dolce, 291.
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+_Entrees._
+
+ Croquettes, general directions for making, 292.
+
+ The Enterprise chopper, 293.
+
+ Sauce for croquette mixture, 293.
+
+ To mold croquettes, 293.
+
+ To fry croquettes, 294.
+
+ Materials used for croquettes, 295.
+
+ Timbales, 296.
+
+ Truffles, 296.
+
+ Cream chicken forcemeat, 297.
+
+ Cream forcemeat No. 2, 297.
+
+ Fish cream forcemeat, 297.
+
+ Quenelle forcemeat, 298.
+
+ Bread panada, 298.
+
+ Flour panada, 298.
+
+ To mold and cook timbales, 298.
+
+ Salpicon, 299.
+
+ Fontage cup, 300.
+
+ Pain de volaille, 300.
+
+ Quenelles, 300.
+
+ Palmettes, 301.
+
+ Celestines a la Maintenon, 301.
+
+ Boudins Rouennaise, 302.
+
+ Macaroni timbale, 302.
+
+ Honeycomb timbale, 302.
+
+ A simple timbale of halibut, 303.
+
+ Pastry timbale, 303.
+
+ Potato and fish timbale, 304.
+
+ Vol-au-vent, 304.
+
+ Patties, 305.
+
+ Rissoles, 305.
+
+ To prepare sweetbreads, 305.
+
+ Baked sweetbreads, 306.
+
+ Braised sweetbreads, 306.
+
+ Sauted sweetbreads, 306.
+
+ Fried sweetbreads, 306.
+
+ Sweetbreads a la poulette, 306.
+
+ Chaudfroid of sweetbreads, 306.
+
+ Calf's brains, 307.
+ Head a la vinaigrette, 307.
+
+ Marinade of brains, 307.
+
+ False terrapin, 308.
+
+ Calf's head a la poulette, 308.
+
+ Oyster cases, 308.
+
+ Liver loaf, or false pate de foie gras, 308.
+
+ Chicken livers, 309.
+
+ Stuffed mushrooms, 309.
+
+ Chicken puree, 310.
+
+ Oyster-crabs, 310.
+
+ Entree of oyster-crabs, 310.
+
+
+_Terrapin._
+
+ Terrapin, general remarks about, 311.
+ To prepare, 312.
+ Stewed in Maryland style, 313.
+ a la Newburg, 313.
+
+ Frogs' legs, fried, 313.
+ a la poulette, 313.
+
+
+_Mushrooms._
+
+ Remarks about mushrooms, 314.
+
+ Cooking mushrooms, 316.
+
+ The Fairy Ring Champignon (Marasmius Oreades), 317.
+
+ The Agaricus Campestris, 317.
+ Procerus, 318.
+ Russula, 318.
+
+ Coprinus Comatus, 318.
+ Atramentarius, 318.
+
+ The Boleti, 318.
+
+ Puff balls, 319.
+
+ Morchellae Esculentae, 319.
+
+ Hydnum Caput Medusae, 319.
+
+ Clavaria, 319.
+
+ To dry mushrooms, 320.
+
+ Scalloped mushrooms, 320.
+
+ Mushrooms a la poulette, 320.
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+_Aspic Jelly, Fancy Molding Supports._
+
+ Aspic jelly, 321.
+
+ To clear aspic, 322.
+
+ Quick aspic, 322.
+
+ Chicken aspic or jelly, 323.
+
+ Aspic croutons, 323.
+
+ To chop jelly, 323.
+ Mold jelly, 323.
+ Unmold jelly, 324.
+ Ornament molds, 324.
+
+ Double molds, 325.
+
+ Decorations for meat jelly, 326.
+ Daisy design, 326.
+ Berry design, 326.
+
+ To decorate with truffles, 326.
+
+ Socles, 326.
+
+ Rice socle or casserole, 327.
+
+ Potato casserole, 327.
+
+ A potato support for hot meats, 328.
+
+ Croustades of bread, 328.
+
+ Roll croustades, 328.
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+_Chafing-dish Cooking._
+
+ The chafing-dish, 329.
+
+ Kind of chafing-dish to use, 329.
+
+ Russian bowls, 329.
+
+ Wooden spoons, 330.
+
+ Dishes suitable for chafing-dish, 330.
+
+ Panned oysters, 331.
+
+ Oyster stew, 331.
+
+ Creamed oysters and clams, 331.
+
+ Barbecue of fish, 331.
+
+ Eggs with tomatoes, 332.
+
+ Tomatoes and rice, 332.
+
+ Creamed dishes: eggs, chicken, veal, 332.
+
+ Dishes a la Newburg, 333.
+
+ Terrapin, 333.
+
+ Chicken livers with Madeira, 333.
+
+ Crab toast, 334.
+
+ Smelts a la Toulouse, 334.
+
+ Meats, 335.
+ Venison, 335.
+ Mutton, 335.
+ Beef, 335.
+
+ Welsh rabbit and golden buck, 335.
+
+ Fondu-Savarin, 335.
+
+ Pineapple canapes, 336.
+
+ Chocolate made with condensed milk, 337.
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+_Bread._
+
+ Remarks about yeast, 338.
+
+ Yeast, 338.
+
+ Dick Bennet's receipt for yeast, 339.
+
+ Yeast receipt No. 2, 339.
+
+ What to do when yeast is not obtainable to start the fermentation, 339.
+
+ Proportions of raising materials and other items, 340.
+
+ General directions for making bread, 340.
+
+ Time, 340.
+
+ Raising, 341.
+
+ Proportions of material, 341.
+
+ Mixing, 342.
+
+ Making a sponge, 342.
+
+ The crust on dough, 342.
+
+ Kneading and molding, 342.
+
+ Baking, 343.
+
+ Care of bread after it is baked, 344.
+
+ Baking bread rolls, 344.
+
+ Flour, 344.
+
+ Bread pans, 344.
+
+ Water bread No. 1, 345.
+ " " " 2, 345.
+
+ Milk bread, 345.
+
+ Potato bread, 345.
+
+ Receipt for making one loaf of bread or one pan of biscuits in two
+ hours, 346.
+
+ Bread made with baking-powder, 346.
+ Whole wheat flour, 346.
+
+ Graham bread, 346.
+
+ Gluten bread, 347.
+
+ Boston brown bread, 347.
+
+ Toast, 348.
+
+ Milk toast, 348.
+
+ Panada, 348.
+
+ Pulled bread, 349.
+
+ Zwieback, 349.
+
+ Bread fritters, 349.
+
+ Bread rolls, 349.
+
+ Crescents, 350.
+
+ Braids and twists, 350.
+
+ Cleft rolls, 351.
+
+ Luncheon and tea rolls, 351.
+
+ Parker House rolls, 351.
+
+ Tea biscuits made with baking-powder, 352.
+ Sour milk, 352.
+
+ Corn bread No. 1, 353.
+ " " No. 2, 353.
+
+ Puffs or pop-overs, 354.
+
+ Graham gems, 354.
+
+ Corn gems, 354.
+
+ Muffins, 355.
+
+ Raised muffins, 355.
+
+ English muffins or crumpets, 355.
+
+ Sally Lunn, 355.
+
+ Waffles, 356.
+
+ Hominy cake, 356.
+
+ Oat cake, 356.
+
+ Bran biscuits, 357.
+
+ Bread sticks, 357.
+
+ Rusks, 357.
+
+ Dried rusks, 358.
+
+ Bath buns, 358.
+
+ Coffee cake, 358.
+
+ Brioche, 359.
+
+ To make a brioche roll with head, 360.
+ a brioche crown or ring, 360.
+ Buns, 360.
+
+ Brioche for timbales or cabinet puddings, 361.
+
+ Pancakes, 361.
+
+ Plain pancakes, 362.
+
+ Flannel cakes, 362.
+
+ Rice pancakes, 362.
+
+ Bread pancakes, 362.
+
+ Cornmeal pancakes, 363.
+
+ Buckwheat pancakes, 363.
+
+ Adirondack pancakes, 363.
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+_Sandwiches and Canapes._
+
+ General remarks, 364.
+
+ Shapes, 364.
+
+ How to prepare the meat, 364.
+
+ Butter, 365.
+
+ Rolls, 365.
+
+ How to prepare the bread, 365.
+
+ Meat sandwiches, 365.
+
+ Fish sandwiches, 366.
+
+ Egg sandwiches, 366.
+
+ Salad sandwiches, 366.
+
+ Spanish sandwiches, 367.
+
+ Cheese sandwiches (mock crab), 367.
+
+ Raw beef sandwiches, 367.
+
+ Sweet sandwiches, 367.
+
+ Canapes, 368.
+
+ Cheese canapes, 368.
+
+ Ham canapes, 368.
+
+ Anchovy canape, 368.
+
+ Sardine canape, 368.
+
+ Canape Lorenzo, 369.
+
+_Cheese and Cheese Dishes._
+
+ General directions, 369.
+
+ Cheese souffle, 370.
+
+ Crackers and cheese, 371.
+
+ Cheese canapes, 371.
+
+ Welsh rarebit, 371.
+
+ Golden buck, 372.
+
+ Cheese straws No. 1, 372.
+ Straws No. 2, 372.
+ Patties, 373.
+
+ Cottage cheese, 373.
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+_Salads._
+
+ General directions, 374.
+
+ To marinate, 374.
+
+ Mayonnaise, 375.
+
+ French dressing, 375.
+
+ Lettuce salad, 376.
+
+ Water-cresses and apples, 376.
+
+ Celery salad, 376.
+
+ Cucumber and tomato salad, 377.
+
+ Cucumber salad to serve with fish, 377.
+
+ String-bean salad, 377.
+
+ Bean salads, 377.
+
+ Cauliflower salad, 377.
+
+ Macedoine salad, 378.
+
+ Potato salad, 378.
+
+ Cold slaw, 378.
+
+ Hot slaw, 379.
+
+ Tomato salads, 379.
+ No. 1, 379.
+ No. 2, stuffed tomatoes, 380.
+ No. 3, tomatoes and eggs, 380.
+ No. 4, molded tomatoes, 380.
+ No. 5, tomato jelly, 380.
+
+ Celery and walnut salad, 381.
+
+ Sweetbreads with celery, 381.
+
+ Egg salad No. 1, 381.
+ " " " 2, 381.
+
+ Orange salad, 382.
+
+ Chicken salad, 382.
+
+ Lobster salad, 382.
+
+ Oyster salad, 383.
+
+ Bouilli salad, 383.
+
+ Russian salad, 383.
+ Individual salad, 383.
+
+ Note, 384.
+
+ Aspic of pate en Bellevue, 384.
+
+ Chicken aspic with walnuts, 384.
+
+ Bird's-nest salad, 385.
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+_Cold Desserts._
+
+ Information pertaining to making desserts, 386.
+
+ Utensils, 386.
+
+ Table of weights and measures, 387.
+
+ Proportions, 387.
+
+ Materials, 388.
+ Gelatine, 388.
+ Chocolate, 388.
+
+ To melt chocolate, 388.
+
+ To whip eggs, 389.
+
+ Sweetening meringue, 389.
+
+ Milk scalded, 389.
+
+ Raisins, 389.
+
+ Thickening fruit juices, 389.
+
+ When to add flavoring, 389.
+
+ Molding, 389.
+
+ Liqueurs, 390.
+
+ Wines, 390.
+
+ Eau de vie de Dantzic, 390.
+
+ Vanilla bean, 390.
+ Powder, 390.
+ Sugar, 390.
+
+ How to make vanilla sugar, 391.
+ Orange sugar, 391.
+ Lemon sugar, 391.
+ Rose sugar, 391.
+ Orange and lemon syrups, 391.
+ To get pistachio flavor, 391.
+
+ Peach-leaf flavor, 391.
+
+ Caramel, 391.
+
+ How to make candied orange or lemon peel, 391.
+
+ Coloring, 392.
+
+ Garnishing, 392.
+
+ California candied fruits, 392.
+
+ Angelica, 392.
+
+ Currants, raisins, nuts, for garnishing, 393.
+
+ Fresh flowers for garnishing, 393.
+
+ Colored sugars for garnishing, 393.
+ How to make, 393.
+
+ Sauces for cold sweet dishes, 393.
+
+ Canned fruits, 393.
+
+ The store-closet, 394.
+
+_Custards._
+
+ Boiled custard No. 1, 394.
+ " " " 2, 395.
+
+ Floating island, 395.
+
+ Chocolate custard, 395.
+
+ Baked custard, 396.
+
+ Caramel custard, 396.
+
+ Chocolate cream custard, 397.
+
+ Rennet, 397.
+
+_Cornstarch Puddings._
+
+ No. 1, a plain cornstarch pudding, 397.
+
+ No. 2, cornstarch with canned fruit, 398.
+
+ No. 3, cocoanut pudding, 398.
+
+ No. 4, chocolate pudding, 398.
+
+ Cornstarch chocolates, 398.
+
+ Blanc-mange or white jelly, 399.
+
+ Plum-pudding jelly, 399.
+
+_Bavarian Creams._
+
+ General rules for, 400.
+
+ Plain Bavarian cream, 400.
+
+ Chocolate Bavarian cream, 401.
+
+ Italian cream or Bavarian without cream, 401.
+
+ Fruit Bavarian, 401.
+
+ Rice Bavarian, or Riz a l'imperatrice, 402.
+
+ Bavarian panachee, 402.
+ en surprise, 402.
+
+ Diplomatic pudding, 403.
+ Bavarian, 403.
+
+_Charlotte Russe._
+
+ Charlotte russe, filling, No. 1, 404.
+ No. 2 (with eggs), 405.
+ No. 3 (with fruit), 405.
+ No. 4, 405.
+ No. 5, 405.
+
+ Timbale of brioche, 406.
+
+ Charlotte princesse de Galles, 406.
+
+ Strawberry Charlotte, 406.
+
+ Gateau St. Honore, 407.
+
+ Croquenbouche of macaroons, 408.
+
+_Whipped Cream._
+
+ How to whip cream, 408.
+ Whips, 409.
+ Czarina cream, 410.
+ Chestnut puree with cream, 410.
+ Chestnuts with cream, 410.
+
+_Uses for Stale Cake._
+
+ Pine cones, 411.
+
+ Cake with custard, 411.
+
+ Trifle (Esther), 411.
+
+ Banana trifle (Martha), 412.
+
+_Sweet Jellies._
+
+ Points to observe in making jellies, 412.
+
+ Dissolving, 412.
+
+ Proportions, 413.
+
+ Clarifying, 413.
+
+ Molding for fancy jellies, 413.
+
+ Serving jellies, 414.
+
+ To clarify fruit juices, 415.
+
+ Wine jelly, 415.
+
+ Lemon jelly, 415.
+
+ Orange jelly, 415.
+
+ Coffee jelly, 416.
+
+ Champagne jelly, 416.
+
+ Champagne jelly with flowers, 416.
+
+ Whipped jelly or snow pudding, 417.
+
+ Jellies with fruits (macedoine), 417.
+
+ Russian jellies, 417.
+
+ Ribbon jelly, 418.
+
+ Italian jelly, 418.
+
+ Dantzic jelly, 418.
+
+ What to do with jelly left over, 418.
+
+_Pains aux Fruits or Jellied Fruits._
+
+ Pain de fraises (strawberries), 419.
+
+ Supreme of strawberries, 419.
+
+ Pain de riz aux fruits (rice with fruits), 419.
+
+ Pain de riz a la princesse, 419.
+
+ Pain d'oranges (oranges), 420.
+ de peches (peaches), 420.
+ de marrons (chestnuts), 420.
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+_Hot Desserts._
+
+ Souffles, 421.
+ Omelet, 422.
+ Vanilla, 422.
+ Chocolate, 423.
+ Prune, 423.
+ Apple, 424.
+
+ Farina pudding, 424.
+
+_Sweet Omelets._
+
+ Orange omelet, 425.
+
+ Jam omelet, 425.
+
+ Rum omelet, 426.
+
+ Sweet pancakes, 426.
+
+_Fritters._
+
+ Fritter batter, 426.
+
+ Apple fritters, 427.
+
+ Peach or apricot fritters, 427.
+
+ Orange fritters, 427.
+
+ Biscuit dough, 428.
+
+ Balloons, 428.
+
+ Batter pudding, 428.
+
+_Desserts made of Apples._
+
+ Snow apple pudding, 429.
+
+ Brown Betty, 429.
+
+ Baked apple dumplings, 429.
+
+ Apple Charlotte, 430.
+
+ Apples with rice, No. 1, 430.
+ " " " " 2, 431.
+ With cornstarch (Felice), 432.
+
+ Flaming apples, 432.
+
+ Baked apples (for breakfast), 432.
+ " " (for luncheon), 432.
+
+ Tapioca pudding, 433.
+
+_Rice Puddings._
+
+ Plain rice pudding No. 1, 433.
+ " " " " 2, 433.
+
+ Rice and raisins, 434.
+
+_Bread Puddings._
+
+ Bread pudding, 434.
+
+ Bread and butter pudding, 434.
+
+ Bread tarts, 435.
+
+_Cake Puddings._
+
+ Cottage pudding, 435.
+
+ Canary pudding, 436.
+
+ Suet pudding, 436.
+
+ Farina pudding, boiled, 436.
+
+ Christmas plum pudding, 437.
+
+ Fig pudding, 438.
+
+ Cabinet pudding No. 1, 438.
+ " " " 2, 439.
+ " " " 3 (royale), 439.
+ " " " 4, 440.
+
+ Savarins, 440.
+
+ Baba, 440.
+
+_Custards._
+
+ Creme Parisienne, 441.
+
+ Fried Cream, 441.
+
+_Shortcakes._
+
+ Strawberry shortcake, 442.
+
+ Currant shortcake, 442.
+
+ Strawberry cake, 443.
+
+ Roly-poly pudding, 443.
+
+ Fruit pudding, 443.
+
+ Baked Indian pudding, 443.
+
+_Pudding Sauces._
+
+ Plain pudding sauce No. 1 (hot), 444.
+ " " " " 2 (Cold), 445.
+
+ Rich pudding sauce, 445.
+
+ Foamy pudding sauce, 445.
+
+ Brandy, rum, or kirsch sauce, 445.
+
+ Sabayon No. 1, 446.
+ " " 2, 446.
+
+ Syrup sauce, 446.
+
+ Fruit sauces, 446.
+
+ Apricot sauce, 446.
+
+ Puree of fruit, 447.
+
+ Pineapple sauce, 447.
+
+ Boiled custard sauce, 447.
+
+ Chocolate sauce, 447.
+
+ Bischoff sauce, 447.
+
+ Richelieu sauce, 448.
+
+ Meringue sauce, 448.
+
+ Hard sauce, 448.
+
+ Strawberry sauce, 449.
+
+ Cocoanut sauce, 449.
+
+ Cold jelly sauce, 449.
+
+
+CHAPTER XX.
+
+_Pies._
+
+ Plain pastry for pies, 451.
+
+ Pastry for tarts or open pies, 452.
+
+ Tart pies, 452.
+
+ Orange pie, 453.
+
+ A plain apple pie, 454.
+
+ Pumpkin pie, 454.
+
+ Mince pie mixture, 454.
+
+ Cream pie, 455.
+
+ Cocoanut pie, 456.
+
+ Cranberry pie, 456.
+
+ Washington pie, 457.
+
+_Puff-Paste._
+
+ General rules, 457.
+
+ Receipt for puff-paste, 458.
+
+ Pate shells, 460.
+
+ Tart bands, 460.
+
+ Millefeuilles, 461.
+
+ Tartlets, 461.
+
+ Paganini tartlets, 461.
+
+ To glaze or egg pastry, 461.
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI.
+
+_Cake._
+
+ Rules for making cake, 462.
+
+ How to beat eggs, 463.
+ To line tins with paper, 463.
+ To grease pans, 464.
+ To bake cake, 464.
+
+ Mixing sponge cake, 465.
+ Cake made with butter, 465.
+
+ Sponge cake No. 1, 466.
+ " " 2, 466.
+ " " 3, 466.
+
+ White sponge or angel cake, 467.
+
+ Sunshine cake, 467.
+
+ Genoese cake, 467.
+
+ Jelly rolls, 468.
+
+ Layer cakes--chocolate, vanilla, coffee, 468.
+
+ Cream filling, 468.
+
+ Chocolate filling, 469.
+
+ Orange cake, 469.
+ Filling, 469.
+
+ Pistachio cake, 469.
+
+ Plain cup cake, 470.
+
+ Gold and silver cake, 470.
+
+ Marble cake, 470.
+
+ Richer cup, or 1, 2, 3, 4 cake, 471.
+
+ Pound cake, 471.
+
+ White cake, 471.
+
+ Plain fruit cake, 472.
+
+ Brod torte, 472.
+
+ Fruit cake (rich), 473.
+
+ Cream cakes and eclairs, 473.
+
+ Cream cakes, 474.
+
+ Chocolate, vanilla, and coffee eclairs, 474.
+
+ Carolines, 475.
+
+_Fancy Small Cakes._
+
+ Meringues and kisses, 475.
+
+ Lady-fingers, 476.
+
+ Macaroons, 477.
+
+ Cocoanut balls or cones, 477.
+
+ Madeleines No. 1, 477.
+ " " 2, 478.
+
+ Little pound cakes, 478.
+
+ Orange quarters, 478.
+
+ Almond wafers, 478.
+
+ Venetian cakes, 479.
+
+ Gauffres, 479.
+
+_Jumbles, Cookies, and Plain Cakes._
+
+ Jumbles, 480.
+
+ Sand tarts, 480.
+
+ Rolled jumbles, 480.
+
+ Plain cookies, 481.
+
+ Ginger snaps, 481.
+
+ Crullers, 481.
+
+ Doughnuts, 481.
+
+ Bread cake, 482.
+
+ One-egg cake, 482.
+
+ Warren's cake, 482.
+
+ Molasses wafers, 482.
+
+ Soft gingerbread, 483.
+
+ Molasses cake, 483.
+
+_Icing and Decorating Cakes._
+
+ Royal icing, 483.
+ " with confectioner's sugar, 484.
+
+ Boiled icing No. 1, 484.
+ " " 2, 484.
+
+ Chocolate icing No. 1, 484.
+
+ Chocolate icing No. 2, 485.
+ " " 3, 485.
+
+ Icing for small cakes, 485.
+
+ Coffee icing for eclairs, 485.
+
+ Fondant icing, 485.
+
+_Garnishing Cakes._
+
+ With powdered sugar, 486.
+ Chopped nuts, 486.
+ Colored sugars, 486.
+ Two colors, 486.
+
+ To decorate in designs, 487.
+
+
+CHAPTER XXII.
+
+_Frozen Desserts._
+
+_Ice-Creams, Water-ices, Parfaits, Mousses, Frozen Fruits, Punches, and
+Sherbets._
+
+ Remarks about frozen desserts, 488.
+
+ Classification of ice-creams, 488.
+
+ General rules for making ice-creams, 489.
+
+ The cream, 489.
+ Sugar, 489.
+ Custards, 489.
+ " for biscuits and parfaits, 490.
+
+ Freezing, 490.
+
+ Packing, 490.
+
+ Molding, 491.
+
+ Fancy molding, 491.
+
+ Unmolding, 493.
+
+ Ornamental creams, 493.
+
+ Individual creams, 493.
+
+ Vanilla ice-creams, 494.
+ No. 1, Philadelphia, 494.
+ No. 2, American (very plain), 495.
+ No. 3, French, 495.
+
+ Chocolate ice-cream, 496.
+
+ Caramel ice-cream No. 1, 496.
+ " " " 2, 497.
+
+ Coffee ice-cream No. 1, 497.
+ " " " 2, 497.
+
+ White or angel ice-cream, 497.
+
+ Italian meringue, 498.
+
+ Rice ice-cream, 498.
+
+ Pistachio ice-cream, 498.
+
+ Neapolitan ice-cream, 498.
+
+ Nesselrode pudding, 499.
+
+ Plum pudding glace, 500.
+
+ Sauce for plum pudding glace or for Nesselrode pudding, 501.
+
+ Tutti frutti, 501.
+
+ Fruit ice-creams, 501.
+ No. 1, 501.
+ No. 2, 501.
+ No. 3, 502.
+ No. 4, fruit puddings, 502.
+
+ Nut ice-creams, 502.
+
+_Parfaits._
+
+ General remarks about parfaits, 502.
+
+ Sugar syrup, 503.
+
+ Vanilla parfait, 503.
+
+ Maple parfait, 504.
+
+ Parfait au cafe and cafe praline, 504.
+
+ Chocolate parfait and chocolate praline, 504.
+
+ Praline powder, 505.
+
+ Angel parfait, 505.
+
+ Imperatrice or rice pudding glace, 505.
+
+ Parfaits of chestnuts, candied fruits, fresh fruits or berries, 506.
+
+ Biscuits glace, 506.
+
+_Mousses._
+
+ Fruit mousses, 507.
+
+ Golden mousse (made without cream), 507.
+
+_Water-ices._
+
+ Orange ice, 508.
+
+ Lemon ice, 508.
+
+ Strawberry ice, 508.
+
+_Punches and Sherbets._
+
+ General remarks about punches and sherbets, 508.
+
+ Coffee punch, 509.
+
+ Cafe frappe, 509.
+
+ Lalla Rookh, 509.
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIII.
+
+_Boiling Sugar and Making Candies._
+
+ Boiling sugar, 510.
+
+ Granulation, 511.
+
+ Degrees of boiling sugar, 512.
+
+ Syrups, 513.
+
+ Fondant, 513.
+
+ To make fondant, 514.
+
+ Spun sugar, 515.
+
+ Directions for spinning sugar, 515.
+
+ Glace oranges and grapes, 516.
+
+_Candies._
+
+ General remarks about candy making, 517.
+
+ Nougat No. 1 (for bonbons), 518.
+ " " 2 (for molding), 519.
+ " " 3 (soft white nougat), 519.
+ " " 4 (bonbons), 520.
+
+ Burnt almonds, 520.
+
+ Sugared almonds, 520.
+
+ Marrons glace, 521.
+
+ Marshmallows, 521.
+
+ Chocolate caramels, 522.
+
+ Caramels, vanilla, coffee, maple, 522.
+
+_Bonbons of Fondant._
+
+ Harlequin balls, 522.
+
+ Neapolitan squares, 523.
+
+ Nut creams, 523.
+
+ Sugar-plums, 523.
+
+ Chocolate creams, 524.
+
+ Creamed nuts and creamed fruits, 524.
+
+ Cocoanut creams, 524.
+ Cakes, 525.
+
+ Peppermint creams, 525.
+
+ Chocolate peppermints, 525.
+
+ To make starch molds and cast candies, 525.
+
+_Candies made from Sugar Boiled to the Crack or the Caramel._
+
+ Peppermint drops, 526.
+
+ Carameled nuts, 526.
+
+ Almond hardbake, 526.
+
+ Peanut candy, 527.
+
+ Taffy, 527.
+
+ Molasses candy, 527.
+
+ Candied orange and lemon peel, 527.
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIV.
+
+_Fruits._
+
+ General remarks, 529.
+
+ Apples, 530.
+
+ Oranges, 530.
+
+ Grape fruit, 530.
+
+ Peaches, 530.
+
+ Strawberries, 530.
+
+ Berries, 531.
+
+ Currants, 531.
+
+ Bananas, sliced, sauted, fried, 531.
+
+ Stewed figs, 531.
+
+ Salpicon of fruits, 532.
+
+ Melons, 532.
+
+ Frozen fruits, 532.
+
+ Quinces, baked, 532.
+
+ Nuts, 532.
+
+ Salted almonds, 533.
+ " " No. 2, 533.
+ " English walnuts and filberts, 533.
+
+ Salpicon of fruit punch, 533.
+
+ Punch of white California canned cherries, 534.
+
+ Jellied fruit, 534.
+
+ Fruit juices, 534.
+
+
+CHAPTER XXV.
+
+_Compotes--Preserving and Canning--Pickles._
+
+ Compotes, 535.
+ Compote of apples, 535.
+ " " pears, 536.
+ " " oranges, 536.
+ " " peaches and apricots, 536.
+
+ Preserving and canning, 536.
+
+ Preserved peaches, 537.
+ " pears, 538.
+ " plums, 538.
+ " grapes, 539.
+ " strawberries No. 1, 539.
+ " strawberries No. 2, 540.
+ " raspberries, 540.
+ " citron, 540.
+
+ Canning, 540.
+
+ Jams or marmalades, 541.
+ Quince marmalade, 542.
+ Orange " 542.
+ Apple " 543.
+ Brandy peaches, 543.
+
+ Jellies, 543.
+ Currant or berries, 543.
+ Apple jelly, 544.
+ Crab-apple jelly, 544.
+ Quince jelly, 544.
+ Spiced grapes, 544.
+ Plum sauce for meats, 544.
+
+_Pickles._
+
+ Sweet pickled peaches and plums, 545.
+
+ Pickled walnuts, 545.
+ " cucumbers or gherkins, 545.
+
+ Green tomato pickles, 546.
+
+ Chow-chow, 546.
+
+ Nasturtium pickle, 547.
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVI.
+
+_Beverages._
+
+ Filtered water, 548.
+
+ To freeze carafes, 548.
+
+ Tea, 549.
+
+ The tea bag, 550.
+ " " ball, 550.
+
+ Russian tea, 550.
+
+ Tea punch, 550.
+
+ Iced tea, 550.
+
+ Coffee, 551.
+
+ Care of coffee beans, 551.
+
+ Coffee mixtures and brands, 551.
+
+ To make coffee, 551.
+
+ Drip coffee, 552.
+
+ Boiled " 553.
+
+ Iced cafe au lait, 553.
+
+ Chocolate, 553.
+
+ Cocoa, 554.
+
+ Lemonade, 554.
+
+ Orangeade, 554.
+
+ Cobblers, 554.
+
+ Claret cup No. 1, 555.
+ " " " 2, 555.
+
+ Champagne cup No. 1, 555.
+ " " " 2, 555.
+
+ Moselle cup, 555.
+
+ Sauterne cup, 556.
+
+ Cider cup, 556.
+
+ The Thorp cocktail, 556.
+
+ Egg-nog, 557.
+
+ Milk shake, 557.
+ " punch, 557.
+
+ Fruit syrups, 557.
+
+ Grape juice, 557.
+
+ Raspberry vinegar, 558.
+
+ Koumiss, 558.
+
+ Wines, 560.
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note
+
+
+The following typographical errors were corrected:
+
+ iii household affairs changed to household affairs.
+ 6 Mr. and Mrs James's changed to Mr. and Mrs. James's
+ 19 decorated-dinner table changed to decorated dinner-table
+ 32 Foies-Gras changed to Foie Gras
+ 32 Chocolate Pralinee changed to Chocolate Pralinee.
+ 42 potato soup, page 103 changed to potato soup, page 105
+ 48 1 lb changed to 1 lb.
+ 79 tablepoonfuls of water changed to tablespoonfuls of water
+ 87 seive changed to sieve
+ 104 clam broth, page 100 changed to clam broth, page 95
+ 108 Footnote 108-1 changed to 108-* both in text and footnote
+ 125 took-pick changed to tooth-pick
+ 130 illustration page 324 changed to illustration page 322
+ 130 macedoine changed to macedoine
+ 145 Seasoning changed to Seasoning.
+ 148 if requested, changed to if requested.
+ 208 size of the to-tomatoes changed to size of the tomatoes
+ 219 pan with, butter, changed to pan with butter,
+ 223 cupful of farina changed to cupful of farina.
+ 223 cupfuls of milk changed to cupfuls of milk.
+ 226 tablepoonfuls of butter changed to tablespoonfuls of butter
+ 273 BEURRE NOIR. changed to BEURRE NOIR
+ 308 PATE changed to PATE
+ 316 make an excellent, changed to make an excellent
+ 349 cold color changed to gold color
+ 359 lukewarm water, changed to lukewarm water.
+ 378 MACEDOINE changed to MACEDOINE
+ 384 MACEDOINE changed to MACEDOINE
+ 385 BIRDS-NEST changed to BIRD'S-NEST
+ 397 (NO. 1). changed to (NO. 1.)
+ 411 page 393). changed to page 393),
+ 436 teaspoonful of vanilla changed to teaspoonful of vanilla.
+ 445 2 egg yolks changed to 2 egg yolks.
+ 473 citron (sliced) changed to citron (sliced).
+ 506 fruit is mixed in, changed to fruit is mixed in.
+ 565 Hard-bake, 526. changed to Hardbake 526.
+ 565 Flaming, 433. changed to Flaming, 432.
+ 565 Calf'shead, 175. changed to Calf's head, 175.
+ 565 Cucumbers, 208. changed to Cucumbers, 218.
+ 565 =Boston brownbread= changed to =Boston brown bread=
+ 565 Braising, 71. changed to =Braising=, 71.
+ 566 Little pound cakes changed to Little pound-cakes
+ 566 =Caramel=, 78, 391, 512. changed to =Caramel=, 78, 391, 522.
+ 566 Filling, No. 1, 404, changed to Filling, No. 1, 404.
+ 567 Leggs stuffed changed to Legs stuffed
+ 567 No. 3. 485. changed to No. 3, 485.
+ 567 =Coffee=, 551, changed to =Coffee=, 551.
+ 567 Slaw, 398. changed to Slaw, 378.
+ 567 Toast, 334. moved to proper alphabetical posistion under =Crabs=
+ 567 No. 2 297. changed to No. 2, 297.
+ 568 Rolls, 323. changed to Rolls, 328.
+ 568 With baking powder, 179. changed to With baking powder, 170.
+ 568 =Eclairs=, 470. changed to =Eclairs=, 473.
+ 568 Nogg, 557. changed to Nog, 557.
+ 568 Omelet, 263. changed to Omelet, 264.
+ 568 Enterprize chopper changed to Enterprise chopper
+ 568 Farinacious changed to Farinaceous
+ 568 =Figs=, 591. changed to =Figs=, 531.
+ 569 No 2, 247. changed to No. 2, 247.
+ 569 Plum pudding glace, 590. changed to Plum pudding glace, 500.
+ 570 No. 3, 223. changed to No. 3, 227.
+ 570 dinners, 47, 352. changed to dinners, 47, 249.
+ 570 =Milk=, 54, 58, 63. changed to =Milk=, 54, 58, 389.
+ 570 =Mustard sauce=, 285. changed to =Mustard sauce=, 284.
+ 571 Rechauffe changed to Rechauffe
+ 571 Glace, 56 changed to Glace, 516
+ 571 =Orange cake=, 469. changed to subentry Cake, 469.
+ 571 Oxtail changed to Ox-tail
+ 572 =Plum sauce for meats=, 444. changed to =Plum sauce for
+ meats=, 544.
+ 572 " glace, 590. changed to " glace, 500.
+ 572 =Pound cakes, small=, 478, changed to =Pound cakes, small=, 478.
+ 572 =Puff paste= changed to =Puff-paste=
+ 572 =Quails broiled=, 192. changed to =Quails broiled=, 198.
+ 572 Rechauffe changed to Rechauffe
+ 572 remarks about, 373. changed to remarks about, 374.
+ 573 =Sauces for meats=, 375. changed to =Sauces for meats=, 275.
+ 573 =Sauces=, 375. changed to =Sauces=, 275.
+ 573 =Pudding sauces, sweet=, 444. moved to spot as subheading under
+ =Sauces=
+ 574 corn, 107. changed to corn, 106.
+ 574 Spinach, 166. changed to " spinach, 106.
+ 574 String beans, 106. changed to " string beans, 106.
+ 574 Supreme of, 419. changed to Supreme of, 419.
+ 574 =Tart bands=, 400. changed to =Tart bands=, 460.
+ 574 Five o'clock, 31. changed to Five o'clock, 33.
+ 574 General rules about, 312. changed to General rules about, 311.
+ 576 Vegetables, 33 changed to Vegetables, 53
+ 577 pot au feu changed to pot-au-feu
+ 577 skewers, 118. changed to skewers, 117.
+ 578 fish-balls changed to fish balls (2 times)
+ 578 A plain potpie changed to A plain pot-pie
+ 578 Dumplings with suet, 171 changed to Dumplings with suet, 170
+ 578 Veal scallop, 171 changed to Veal scallop, 172
+ 580 Fish-balls changed to Fish balls
+ 580 rechauffe changed to rechauffe
+ 580 boiled Indian pudding, 239. changed to boiled Indian pudding, 240.
+ 580 baked Indian pudding, 239. changed to baked Indian pudding, 240.
+ 580 frosting, 244. changed to frosting, 245.
+ 581 making, 292, changed to making, 292.
+ 583 Raw-beef changed to Raw beef
+ 584 Orange salad, 381. changed to Orange salad, 382.
+ 584 making desserts, 387. changed to making desserts, 386.
+ 584 Utensils, 387. changed to Utensils, 386.
+ 584 store closet changed to store-closet
+ 584 Floating island, 396. changed to Floating island, 395.
+ 584 Chocolate custard, 396. changed to Chocolate custard, 395.
+ 585 rice pudding No 1 changed to rice pudding No. 1
+ 586 Meringue sauce, 449. changed to Meringue sauce, 448.
+ 587 Imperatrice changed to Imperatrice
+ 588 fruit punch, 534. changed to fruit punch, 533.
+ 588 Green tomato pickles, 456. changed to Green tomato pickles, 546.
+
+Other inconsistencies
+
+The price for milk is given as $0.02 per cup on p. 47 and $0.04 per cup
+on p. 48.
+
+The price for sugar is given variously as $0.02 per cup (p. 47, 48) and
+$0.04 per cup (p. 48)
+
+Irregularities in the alphabetization in the Alphabetical Index have
+been left as printed.
+
+
+Other changes
+
+Footnotes were moved to follow the section or recipe they are associated
+with.
+
+The NOTE that appeared at the bottom of p. 364 was moved to p. 366 and
+placed at the end of the section on sandwiches.
+
+The NOTE that appeared at the bottom of p. 495 was moved to follow the
+recipe for Vanilla Ice-Cream No. 1.
+
+
+The following words were inconsistently spelled or hyphenated:
+
+ air-bubbles / air bubbles
+ air-cells / air cells
+ apple-dumplings / apple dumplings
+ apple-sauce / apple sauce
+ baking-dish / baking dish
+ baking-pan / baking pan
+ baking-powder / baking powder
+ baking-sheet / baking sheet
+ baking-soda / baking soda
+ baking-tin / baking tin
+ bean-pot / bean pot
+ biscuit-cutter / biscuit cutter
+ boiling-point / boiling point
+ boiling-hot / boiling hot
+ border-mold / border mold
+ bread-boxes / bread boxes
+ bread-crumbs / bread crumbs
+ bread-dough / bread dough
+ breast-bone / breastbone
+ broom-straw / broom straw
+ CALF'S-HEAD / CALF'S HEAD
+ celery-tops / celery tops
+ center-piece / centerpiece
+ cheese-cloth / cheesecloth / cheese cloth
+ close-fitting / close fitting
+ cold-slaw / cold slaw
+ corn-meal / cornmeal
+ Corn-meal / Cornmeal
+ corn-starch / cornstarch / corn starch
+ Corn-starch / Cornstarch
+ CORN-STARCH / CORNSTARCH
+ cracker-crumbs / cracker crumbs
+ cream-cake / cream cake
+ _croute-au-pot_ / croute au pot
+ dessert-spoonful / dessertspoonful
+ diamond-shaped / diamond shaped
+ egg-dishes / egg dishes
+ egg-white / egg white
+ egg-yolks / egg yolks
+ filter-paper / filter paper
+ force-meat / forcemeat
+ Force-meat / Forcemeat
+ FORCE-MEAT / FORCEMEAT
+ fruit-juices / fruit juices
+ fruit-pulp / fruit pulp
+ frying-basket / frying basket
+ frying-pan / frying pan
+ granite-ware / graniteware
+ half-shell / half shell
+ Half-shell / Half shell
+ hard-ball / hard ball
+ horse-radish / horseradish
+ Ice-Cream / Ice Cream
+ ice-cream / ice cream
+ ice-water / ice water
+ layer-cake / layer cake
+ layer-cakes / layer cakes
+ lemon-juice / lemon juice
+ lemon-peel / lemon peel
+ lemon-rind / lemon rind
+ lemon-zest / lemon zest
+ lettuce-leaves / lettuce leaves
+ measuring-cup / measuring cup
+ medium-sized / medium sized
+ meringue / meringue
+ meringues / meringues
+ mock-turtle / mock turtle
+ muffin-ring / muffin ring
+ onion-juice / onion juice
+ orange-cake / orange cake
+ orange-juice / orange juice
+ orange-peel / orange peel
+ oyster-liquor / oyster liquor
+ pastry-bag / pastry bag
+ pie-dish / pie dish
+ pie-dishes / pie dishes
+ potato-balls / potato balls
+ potato-masher / potato masher
+ potato-press / potato press
+ potato-scoop / potato scoop
+ pudding-dish / pudding dish
+ pudding-mold / pudding mold
+ puff-paste / puff paste
+ ragout / ragout
+ Ragout / Ragout
+ RAGOUT / RAGOUT
+ rice-pudding / rice pudding
+ ring-mold / ring mold
+ rolling-pin / rolling pin
+ rose-leaves / rose leaves
+ rose-petals / rose petals
+ rose-water / rosewater
+ sauce-boat / sauceboat
+ saute-pan / saute pan
+ scalding-point / scalding point
+ serving-dish / serving dish
+ serving-dishes / serving dishes
+ simmering-point / simmering point
+ smoking-hot / smoking hot
+ soft-ball / soft ball
+ soup-pot / soup pot
+ sponge-cake / sponge cake
+ sponge-cakes / sponge cakes
+ starch-grains / starch grains
+ stew-pan / stewpan / stew pan
+ sweet-breads / sweetbreads
+ stock-pot / stock pot
+ string-beans / string beans
+ sweet-oil / sweet oil
+ tail-shells / tail shells
+ Tart-rings / Tart rings
+ terrapin-eggs / terrapin eggs
+ timbale-mold / timbale mold
+ timbale-molds / timbale molds
+ tin-foil / tinfoil
+ tooth-pick / toothpick
+ water-cress / watercress
+ water-ices / water ices
+ wine-glass / wineglass
+ Woodenware / Wooden ware
+ yeast-cake / yeast cake
+ yeast-cakes / yeast cakes
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Century Cook Book, by Mary Ronald
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CENTURY COOK BOOK ***
+
+***** This file should be named 34822.txt or 34822.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+ http://www.gutenberg.org/3/4/8/2/34822/
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