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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Century Cook Book + +Author: Mary Ronald + +Release Date: January 2, 2011 [EBook #34822] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CENTURY COOK BOOK *** + + + + +Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<div class="tn"> +<p class="titlepage"><b>Transcriber’s Note</b></p> + +<p class="noindent">Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A <a href="#trans_note">list</a> of these changes +is found at the end of the text. Inconsistencies in spelling and +hyphenation have been maintained. A <a href="#trans_note">list</a> of inconsistently spelled and +hyphenated words is found at the end of the text.</p> + +<p class="noindent">Illustrations have been moved and placed near the paragraph that they illustrate whenever possible.</p> + +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_i" id="Page_i">[i]</a></span></p> + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> + + +<p class="titlepage200">THE<br /> +CENTURY COOK BOOK</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_ii" id="Page_ii">[ii]</a></span></p> + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 658px;"> +<a name="Frontispiece" id="Frontispiece"></a><a href="images/frontispiece-full.jpg"><img src="images/frontispiece.jpg" width="658" height="433" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">SQUARE-CORNERED DINNER-TABLE WITH FOURTEEN COVERS. +DECORATIONS IN WHITE. (SEE PAGE <a href="#White_dinners_18">18</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[iii]</a></span></p> + +<h1 class="chapterhead">THE<br /> +CENTURY COOK BOOK</h1> + +<p class="titlepage">BY</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 235px;"> +<img src="images/titlepage-1.png" width="235" height="49" alt="Signature" title="Mary Ronald" /> +</div> + +<p class="titlequote"><i>This book contains directions for cooking in its various branches,<br /> +from the simplest forms to high-class dishes and ornamental pieces;<br /> +a group of New England dishes furnished by Susan Coolidge;<br /> +and a few receipts of distinctively Southern dishes. It gives also<br /> +the etiquette of dinner entertainments—how to serve dinners—table<br /> +decorations, and many items relative to household <a name="corr1" id="corr1"></a>affairs.</i></p> + +<p class="titlequotesmall">“NOW GOOD DIGESTION WAIT ON APPETITE<br /> +AND HEALTH ON BOTH”<br /> + +<span class="margin10">—<i>Macbeth</i></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 86px;"> +<img src="images/titlepage-2.png" width="86" height="87" alt="Colophon" title="" /> +</div> + +<p class="titlepage">NEW YORK<br /> +THE CENTURY CO.<br /> +1901</p> + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">[iv]</a></span></p> + +<p class="titlepage">Copyright, 1895, by<br /> +<span class="smcap">The Century Co.</span></p> + + +<p class="centertop3"><span class="smcap">The DeVinne Press.</span></p> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[v]</a></span></p> + +<p><i>“To be a good cook means the knowledge of all fruits, herbs, balms and +spices, and of all that is healing and sweet in field and groves, and +savory in meats; means carefulness, inventiveness, watchfulness, +willingness and readiness of appliance. It means the economy of your +great-grandmothers and the science of modern chemists. It means much +tasting and no wasting. It means English thoroughness, French art and +Arabian hospitality. It means, in fine, that you are to be perfectly and +always ladies (loaf-givers) and are to see that every one has something +nice to eat.”</i>—<span class="smcap">Ruskin.</span></p> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[vi]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><i>APHORISMS—BRILLAT-SAVARIN.</i></h2> + + +<p><i>Les animaux se repaissent; l’homme mange; l’homme d’esprit seul sait +manger.</i></p> + +<p><i>Dis moi ce que tu manges, je te dirai ce que tu es.</i></p> + +<p><i>Le Créateur, en obligeant l’homme à manger pour vivre, l’y invite par +l’appêtit et l’en récompense par le plaisir.</i></p> + +<p><i>La table est le seul endroit où l’on ne s’ennuie jamais pendant la +première heure.</i></p> + +<p><i>La découverte d’un mets nouveau fait plus pour le bonheur du genre +humain que la découverte d’une étoile.</i></p> + +<p><i>L’ordre des comestibles est des plus substantiels aux plus légers.</i></p> + +<p><i>L’ordre des boissons est des plus tempérées aux plus fumeuses et aux +plus parfumées.</i></p> + +<p><i>On devient cuisinier mais on naît rôtisseur.</i></p> + +<p><i>Attendre trop longtemps un convive retardataire est un manque d’égards +pour tous ceux qui sont présent.</i></p> + +<p><i>Celui qui reçoit ses amis, et ne donne aucun soin personnel au repas +qui leur est préparé, n’est pas digne d’avoir des amis.</i></p> + +<p><i>La maîtresse de la maison doit toujours s’assurer que le café est +excellent, et le maître, que les liqueurs sont de premier choix.</i></p> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="TIME_TABLE" id="TIME_TABLE"></a>TIME TABLE.</h2> + + +<p class="titlepage">BOILING.</p> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="boiling meats"> +<tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="3">MEATS.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td></td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdc">Time.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Mutton</td> + <td>per pound</td> + <td>15 minutes.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Potted Beef</td> + <td><span class="pad0-5">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span></td> + <td>30 to 35 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Corned Beef</td> + <td><span class="pad0-5">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span></td> + <td>30 minutes.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Ham</td> + <td><span class="pad0-5">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span></td> + <td>18 to 20 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Turkey</td> + <td><span class="pad0-5">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span></td> + <td>15 minutes.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Chicken</td> + <td><span class="pad0-5">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span></td> + <td>15 <span class="pad1">“</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Fowl</td> + <td><span class="pad0-5">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span></td> + <td>20 to 30 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Tripe</td> + <td><span class="pad0-5">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span></td> + <td>3 to 5 hours.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="boiling fish"> +<tr> + <td class="tdctop1" colspan="3">FISH.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td></td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdc">Time.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Codfish</td> + <td><span class="pad0-5">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span></td> + <td>6 minutes.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Haddock</td> + <td><span class="pad0-5">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span></td> + <td>6 <span class="pad1"> “</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Halibut</td> + <td><span class="pad0-5">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span></td> + <td>15 <span class="pad1">“</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Blue</td> + <td><span class="pad0-5">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span></td> + <td>10 <span class="pad1">“</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Bass</td> + <td><span class="pad0-5">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span></td> + <td>10 <span class="pad1">“</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Salmon</td> + <td><span class="pad0-5">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span></td> + <td>10 to 15 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Small Fish</td> + <td><span class="pad0-5">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span></td> + <td>6 minutes.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td> </td> + <td></td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Lobster</td> + <td></td> + <td>30 to 40 min.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="boiling vegetables"> +<tr> + <td class="tdctop1" colspan="3">VEGETABLES.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td></td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdc">Time.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Potatoes</td> + <td></td> + <td>20 to 30 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Asparagus</td> + <td></td> + <td>20 to 25 <span class="pad0-5">“</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Peas</td> + <td></td> + <td>15 to 20 <span class="pad0-5">“</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>String Beans</td> + <td></td> + <td>20 to 30 <span class="pad0-5">“</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Lima</td> + <td></td> + <td>30 to 40 <span class="pad0-5">“</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Spinach</td> + <td></td> + <td>15 to 20 <span class="pad0-5">“</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Turnips</td> + <td></td> + <td>30 minutes.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Beets</td> + <td></td> + <td>30 min. or more.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Cabbage</td> + <td></td> + <td>20 <span class="pad0-5">“</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Cauliflower</td> + <td></td> + <td>20 <span class="pad0-5">“</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Brussels Sprouts</td> + <td></td> + <td>10 to 15 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Onions</td> + <td></td> + <td>30 to 40 <span class="pad0-5">“</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Parsnips</td> + <td></td> + <td>30 to 40 <span class="pad0-5">“</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Green Corn</td> + <td></td> + <td>20 to 25 <span class="pad0-5">“</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Macaroni</td> + <td></td> + <td>20 minutes.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Rice</td> + <td></td> + <td>15 to 20 min.</td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<p class="centertop1-5">BAKING.</p> + + +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="baking meats"> +<tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="3">MEATS.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td></td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdc">Time.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Beef, ribs, rare</td> + <td>per pound,</td> + <td>8 to 10 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="pad1-5left">“ <span class="pad1">“</span> well done</td> + <td class="pad2-5left">“</td> + <td>12 to 15 “</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="pad1-5left">“ <span class="pad1">“</span> boned & rolled</td> + <td class="pad2-5left">“</td> + <td>12 to 15 “</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Round of Beef</td> + <td class="pad2-5left">“</td> + <td>12 to 15 “</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Mutton, leg, rare</td> + <td class="pad2-5left">“</td> + <td>10 minutes.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="pad2left">“ <span class="pad1-5left">“</span> well done</td> + <td class="pad2-5left">“</td> + <td>15 <span class="pad1">“</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="pad2left">“ <span class="pad1-5left">loin, rare</span></td> + <td class="pad2-5left">“</td> + <td>8 <span class="pad1-5left">“</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="pad2left">“ <span class="pad1-5left">shoulder, stuffed</span></td> + <td class="pad2-5left">“</td> + <td>15 <span class="pad1">“</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="pad2left">“ <span class="pad1-5left">saddle, rare</span></td> + <td class="pad2-5left">“</td> + <td>9 <span class="pad1-5left">“</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Lamb, well done</td> + <td class="pad2-5left">“</td> + <td>15 <span class="pad1">“</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Veal,</td> + <td class="pad2-5left">“</td> + <td>18 to 20 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Pork,</td> + <td class="pad2-5left">“</td> + <td>20 minutes.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Venison, rare</td> + <td class="pad2-5left">“</td> + <td>10 <span class="pad1">“</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Chicken</td> + <td class="pad2-5left">“</td> + <td>15 <span class="pad1">“</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Goose</td> + <td class="pad2-5left">“</td> + <td>18 <span class="pad1">“</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Fillet, hot oven</td> + <td></td> + <td>30 minutes.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Braised Meats</td> + <td></td> + <td>3 to 4 hours.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Liver, whole</td> + <td></td> + <td>2 hours.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Turkey, 8 lbs</td> + <td></td> + <td>1¾ “</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="pad2left">“ <span class="pad1-5left">very large</span></td> + <td></td> + <td>3 <span class="pad1">“</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Birds, small, hot oven</td> + <td></td> + <td>15 to 20 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Ducks, tame</td> + <td></td> + <td>45 minutes.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="pad1-5left">“ <span class="pad1">wild, very hot oven</span></td> + <td></td> + <td>15 <span class="pad1">“</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Partridge</td> + <td></td> + <td>35 to 40 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Grouse</td> + <td></td> + <td>20 to 25 “</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="baking fish"> +<tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="3">FISH.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td></td> + <td></td> + <td>Time.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Large Fish</td> + <td></td> + <td>1 hour, about.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Small</td> + <td></td> + <td>20 to 30 min.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table border="0" style="margin-top: 2em;" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="baking breads"> +<tr> + <td></td> + <td></td> + <td>Time.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Bread</td> + <td></td> + <td>1 hour.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Biscuits</td> + <td></td> + <td>20 minutes.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Cake</td> + <td></td> + <td>20 to 45 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Custards, very slow oven</td> + <td></td> + <td>1 hour.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p class="centertop1-5">BROILING.</p> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="broiling"> +<tr> + <td></td> + <td></td> + <td>Time.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Steak, 1 inch thick</td> + <td></td> + <td>8 to 10 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="pad1-5left">“ <span class="pad1">1½ “</span></td> + <td></td> + <td>10 to 15 “</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Mutton Chops, French</td> + <td></td> + <td>8 minutes.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="pad2">“ <span class="pad1-5">“</span> English</td> + <td></td> + <td>10 <span class="pad1">“</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Spring Chicken</td> + <td></td> + <td>20 <span class="pad1">“</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Quail</td> + <td></td> + <td>8 to 10 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Grouse</td> + <td></td> + <td>15 minutes.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Squabs</td> + <td></td> + <td>10 to 15 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Shad, Bluefish, Trout</td> + <td></td> + <td>15 to 25 <span class="pad0-5">“</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Small Fish</td> + <td></td> + <td>5 to 10 <span class="pad1">“</span></td> +</tr> +</table> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[vii]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead">WEIGHTS AND MEASURES</h2> + + +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Weights and Measures"> +<tr> + <td class="tdr" style="width: 48%;">4 gills</td> + <td style="width: 4%;">=</td> + <td style="width: 48%;">1 pint.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">2 pints</td> + <td>=</td> + <td>1 quart.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">4 quarts</td> + <td>=</td> + <td>1 gallon.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">16 ounce</td> + <td>=</td> + <td>1 pound.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">½ kitchen cupful</td> + <td>=</td> + <td>1 gill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">1 kitchen cupful</td> + <td>=</td> + <td>½ pint or 2 gills.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">4 kitchen cupfuls</td> + <td>=</td> + <td>1 quart.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><span class="double" style="float: right;">}</span>2 cupfuls of granulated sugar<br />2½ cupfuls of powdered sugar</td> + <td class="vmid">=</td> + <td class="vmid">1 pound.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">1 heaping tablespoonful of sugar</td> + <td>=</td> + <td>1 ounce.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><span class="double" style="float: right;">}</span>1 heaping tablespoonful of butter<br />Butter size of an egg</td> + <td class="vmid">=</td> + <td class="vmid">2 oz. or ¼ cupful.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">1 cupful of butter</td> + <td>=</td> + <td>½ pound.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><span class="double" style="float: right;">}</span>4 cupfuls of flour<br />1 heaping quart</td> + <td class="vmid">=</td> + <td class="vmid">1 pound.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">8 round tablespoonfuls of dry material</td> + <td>=</td> + <td>1 cupful.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">16 tablespoonfuls of liquid</td> + <td>=</td> + <td>1 cupful.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="3" style="padding-top: 2em;">PROPORTIONS</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="3"><ul class="ix" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"> + <li>5 to 8 eggs to 1 quart of milk for custards.</li> + <li>3 to 4 eggs to 1 pint of milk for custards.</li> + <li>1 saltspoonful of salt to 1 quart of milk for custards.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of vanilla to 1 quart of milk for custards.</li> + <li>2 ounces of gelatine to 1¾ quarts of liquid.</li> + <li>4 heaping tablespoonfuls of cornstarch to 1 quart of milk.</li> + <li>3 heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-powder to 1 quart of flour.</li> + <li>1 even teaspoonful of baking-powder to 1 cupful of flour.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of soda to 1 pint of sour milk.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of soda to ½ pint of molasses.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of baking-powder is the equivalent of ½ teaspoonful<br /> + of soda and 1 teaspoonful of cream of tartar.</li> +</ul></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p class="titlepage">For other proportions, see page <a href="#PROPORTIONS_340">340</a>.<br /> +For measuring, see page <a href="#MEASURING_77">77</a>.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[viii]</a></span></p> + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[ix]</a></span></p> + + +<h2 class="chapterhead">PREFACE</h2> + + +<p>In France various honors are awarded to cooks. Accomplished <i>chefs de +cuisine</i> are by compliment called <i>cordon-bleu</i>, which is an ancient and +princely order. A successful culinary production takes the name of the +inventor, and by it his fame often lasts longer than that of many men +who have achieved positions in the learned professions. Cooking is there +esteemed a service of especial merit, hence France ranks all nations in +gastronomy.</p> + +<p>Although definite honors are not conferred on cooks elsewhere, good +cooking is everywhere appreciated, and there is no reason why it should +not be the rule instead of the exception. In large establishments it may +be said to prevail, but in many moderate households the daily fare is of +a quality which satisfies no other sense than that of hunger, the +hygienic requirements and esthetic possibilities being quite unknown or +disregarded. This is what Savarin designates as feeding, in +contradistinction to dining.</p> + +<p>The author believes that the women of to-day, because of their higher +education, have a better understanding of domestic duties; that hygiene, +economy, system, and methods are better understood and more generally +practised. Children are not only more sensibly clothed, but they are +more wholesomely fed, and households are directed with more intelligent +care.</p> + +<p>It is hoped that this book will inculcate a desire to learn the simple +principles of cooking for the benefits which such know<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x">[x]</a></span>ledge will give, +and that it will be of material assistance to any woman who wishes to +establish and maintain a well-ordered cuisine. Receipts are given for +simple and inexpensive as well as elaborate and costly dishes, and they +are intended to be of use to the inexperienced as well as to the trained +cook. The rules are given in precise language, with definite measurement +and time, so that no supervision by the mistress will be required for +any receipt given the cook.</p> + +<p>At the head of each chapter are given the general rules for the dishes +included in that class. Economy, practicability, and the resources of +the average kitchen have been constantly borne in mind.</p> + +<p>The illustrations, it is believed, will aid materially in serving +dishes, as they complete and demonstrate the receipts. Many of them are +given to attract attention to very simple dishes, which might be +selected as suited to one’s convenience, but which might otherwise be +overlooked in a hasty perusal of the text. The pictures are from +photographs of dishes, many of which are not too difficult for a novice +to undertake.</p> + +<p>The author has fortunately been able to secure from Susan Coolidge a +number of receipts of New England dishes; also a few distinctively +Southern dishes from an equally experienced Southern housekeeper. These, +she hopes, will enable many who have strayed from home to enjoy again +the dishes associated with other times and places.</p> + +<p>Much care has been taken to give a complete alphabetical index, so that +anything in the book can be quickly found, even if the ordinary +classification is not understood.</p> + +<p>The chapters on etiquette, serving, etc., are meant to aid those young +housekeepers who, from lack of observation or experience, find +themselves at a loss to remember small details<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi">[xi]</a></span> when the responsibility +of an entertainment falls upon them for the first time.</p> + +<p>The author, in speaking of this book to friends, has had various +questions asked and suggestions given, by which she has endeavored to +profit. Some of the questions have been the following:</p> + +<p>“Have you given receipts suitable for a family of two or three?”</p> + +<p>“Have you given expedients, so if articles called for in the receipts +are not at hand others may be substituted?”</p> + +<p>“Is your book only for rich people?”</p> + +<p>“Is it not a mistake to use French names, which many do not understand?” +etc., etc.</p> + +<p>In deference to the last suggestion, she has explained the meaning of +certain classes of dishes known only by the French names, and which +would lose character if translated. A soufflé, for instance, has no +special significance when called “inflated,” but the word soufflé +defines the class of dishes which are inflated, and is so generally +understood that it is almost an Anglicized word.</p> + +<p>The terms Soufflés, Pâtés, Timbales, Hors-d'œuvres, Entrées, etc., +are as distinctive as Stews, Hashes, Creams, etc.; hence there seems no +other way than to learn the culinary nomenclature as one partakes of the +dishes.</p> + +<p>The author strongly urges the trial of new dishes, and breaking away +from the routine of habit. The preparation of so-called fancy dishes is +very simple. A little attention given to ornamentation and garnishing, +making dishes attractive in appearance as well as taste, will raise the +standard of cooking without necessarily increasing the expense.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii">[xii]</a></span></p> + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xiii" id="Page_xiii">[xiii]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead">CONTENTS</h2> + +<hr class="decshort" /> + +<p class="titlepage"><a href="#PART_I"><span class="smcap">Part I</span></a></p> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="width: 80%;" summary="TOC part 1"> +<tr> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr">PAGE</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#PART_I">Dinner-Giving and the Etiquette of Dinners</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#PART_I">1</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#MANNER_OF_SERVING_DINNERS_10">Manner of Serving Dinners</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#MANNER_OF_SERVING_DINNERS_10">10</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#LAYING_THE_TABLE_13">Laying the Table</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#LAYING_THE_TABLE_13">13</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#TABLE_DECORATION_17">Table Decorations</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#TABLE_DECORATION_17">17</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#COURSES_24">Courses</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#COURSES_24">24</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#THE_HOME_DINNER_27">The Home Dinner</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#THE_HOME_DINNER_27">27</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#SERVING_THE_INFORMAL_DINNER_29">Serving the Informal Dinner</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#SERVING_THE_INFORMAL_DINNER_29">29</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#LUNCHEON_31">Luncheon</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#LUNCHEON_31">31</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#THE_FIVE_OCLOCK_TEA_33">The Five o’Clock Tea</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#THE_FIVE_OCLOCK_TEA_33">33</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#A_HOMILY_ON_COOKING_35">A Homily on Cooking</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#A_HOMILY_ON_COOKING_35">35</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#COOKING_AS_A_PLEASURE_AND_AN_ACCOMPLISHMENT_38">Cooking As a Pleasure and an Accomplishment</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#COOKING_AS_A_PLEASURE_AND_AN_ACCOMPLISHMENT_38">38</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#TO_TRAIN_A_GREEN_COOK_40">To Train a Green Cook</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#TO_TRAIN_A_GREEN_COOK_40">40</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#ECONOMICAL_LIVING_44">Economical Living</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#ECONOMICAL_LIVING_44">44</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#WASTEFULNESS_50">Wastefulness</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#WASTEFULNESS_50">50</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#HOW_TO_UTILIZE_WHAT_SOME_COOKS_THROW_AWAY_51">How to Utilize what Some Cooks Throw Away</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#HOW_TO_UTILIZE_WHAT_SOME_COOKS_THROW_AWAY_51">51</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#EMERGENCIES_55">Emergencies</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#EMERGENCIES_55">55</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#THINGS_TO_REMEMBER_58">Things to Remember</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#THINGS_TO_REMEMBER_58">58</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#CARE_OF_UTENSILS_61">Care of Utensils</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CARE_OF_UTENSILS_61">61</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<p class="titlepage"><a href="#PART_II"><span class="smcap">Part II</span></a></p> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="width: 80%;" summary="TOC part 1"> +<tr> + <td colspan="3">CHAPTER</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>I</td> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#Chapter_I">Methods of Cooking Explained</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Chapter_I">67</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>II</td> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#Chapter_II">Soups</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Chapter_II">84</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>III</td> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#Chapter_III">Fish</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Chapter_III">112</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>IV</td> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#Chapter_IV">Meats</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Chapter_IV">145</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>V</td> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#Chapter_V">Poultry and Game</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Chapter_V">179</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>VI</td> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#Chapter_VI">Vegetables</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Chapter_VI">200</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="vmid">VII</td> + <td class="smcap"><span class="triple" style="float: left;">{</span><a href="#Chapter_VII">Farinaceous Foods used as Vegetables</a><br /><a href="#Page_224">Macaroni</a><br /><a href="#Page_227">Cereals</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Chapter_VII">222</a><br /><a href="#Page_224">224</a><br /><a href="#Page_227">227</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xiv" id="Page_xiv">[xiv]</a></span>VIII</td> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#Chapter_VIII">A Group of Receipts from a New England Kitchen</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Chapter_VIII">229</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="vmid">IX</td> + <td class="smcap"><span class="triple" style="float: left;">{</span><a href="#Chapter_IX">Distinctively Southern Dishes</a><br /><a href="#Page_249">Very Inexpensive Dishes</a><br /><a href="#Page_257">Miscellaneous Receipts</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Chapter_IX">246</a><br /><a href="#Page_249">249</a><br /><a href="#Page_257">257</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>X</td> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#Chapter_X">Eggs</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Chapter_X">261</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>XI</td> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#Chapter_XI">Sauces</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Chapter_XI">275</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="vmid">XII</td> + <td class="smcap"><span class="triple" style="float: left;">{</span><a href="#Chapter_XII">Entrées</a><br /><a href="#Page_311">Terrapin, Frogs' Legs</a><br /><a href="#Page_314">Mushrooms</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Chapter_XII">292</a><br /><a href="#Page_311">311</a><br /><a href="#Page_314">314</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>XIII</td> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#Chapter_XIII">Aspic Jelly, Fancy Molding, Supports</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Chapter_XIII">321</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>XIV</td> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#Chapter_XIV">Chafing-dish Receipts</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Chapter_XIV">329</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>XV</td> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#Chapter_XV">Bread</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Chapter_XV">338</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>XVI</td> + <td class="smcap"><span class="double" style="float: left;">{</span><a href="#Chapter_XVI">Sandwiches and Canapés</a><br /><a href="#Page_369">Cheese and Cheese Dishes</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Chapter_XVI">364</a><br /><a href="#Page_369">369</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>XVII</td> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#Chapter_XVII">Salads</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Chapter_XVII">374</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>XVIII</td> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#Chapter_XVIII">Cold Desserts</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Chapter_XVIII">386</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>XIX</td> + <td class="smcap"><span class="double" style="float: left;">{</span><a href="#Chapter_XIX">Hot Desserts</a><br /><a href="#Page_444">Pudding Sauces</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Chapter_XIX">421</a><br /><a href="#Page_444">444</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>XX</td> + <td class="smcap"><span class="double" style="float: left;">{</span><a href="#Chapter_XX">Pies</a><br /><a href="#Page_457">Puff Paste</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Chapter_XX">450</a><br /><a href="#Page_457">457</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>XXI</td> + <td class="smcap"><span class="double" style="float: left;">{</span><a href="#Chapter_XXI">Cake</a><br /><a href="#Page_483">Icing and Decorating Cakes</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Chapter_XXI">462</a><br /><a href="#Page_483">483</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>XXII</td> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#Chapter_XXII">Ice-Creams, Water-Ices, Parfaits, Mousses, Punches</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Chapter_XXII">488</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>XXIII</td> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#Chapter_XXIII">Boiling Sugar and Making Candies</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Chapter_XXIII">510</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>XXIV</td> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#Chapter_XXIV">Fruits, Cooked and Fresh</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Chapter_XXIV">529</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>XXV</td> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#Chapter_XXV">Compotes, Preserving and Canning, Pickles</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Chapter_XXV">535</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>XXVI</td> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#Chapter_XXVI">Beverages</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Chapter_XXVI">548</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>XXVII</td> + <td class="smcap"><a href="#Chapter_XXVII">Wines</a></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Chapter_XXVII">560</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xv" id="Page_xv">[xv]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="divisionhead">THE CENTURY COOK BOOK</h2> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xvi" id="Page_xvi">[xvi]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead">THE CENTURY COOK BOOK</h2> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 25px;"> +<img src="images/divider.png" width="25" height="22" alt="decorative divider" title="" /> +</div> + +<h2 style="font-weight: normal;"><a name="PART_I" id="PART_I"></a><span class="smcap">Part I</span></h2> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 25px;"> +<img src="images/divider.png" width="25" height="22" alt="decorative divider" title="" /> +</div> + +<h2 style="font-weight: normal;"><a name="DINNER-GIVING_AND_THE_ETIQUETTE_OF_DINNERS_1" id="DINNER-GIVING_AND_THE_ETIQUETTE_OF_DINNERS_1"></a>DINNER-GIVING AND THE ETIQUETTE OF DINNERS</h2> + +<p class="poem" style="margin-top: 2em;"><span class="i2">“To feed were best at home;</span><br /> +From thence, the sauce to meat is ceremony,<br /> +Meeting were bare without it.”—<i>Shakspere</i></p> + + +<div class="explanations"><p style="margin-top: 2em;"><span class="smcap">A dinner</span> party may be considered as holding the highest rank +among entertainments. In no other social function is etiquette +so strictly observed. There are prescribed rules for the form +of the invitation, the manner of assigning each guest his +place at the table, the manner of serving the dinner, etc.; +and when these rules are followed there need be no embarrassments.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>The Company.</b></span> It should always be remembered that the social part of the +entertainment is on a higher plane than the gastronomic one, +though the latter must by no means be slighted. A sentiment +expressed by the wit who said, “A fig for your bill of fare, +give me a bill of your company,” is generally felt, and a +hostess should bring together only such people as she believes +will be mutually agreeable.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[2]</a></span>The idea, given by Goldsmith in his “Retaliation,” of +looking upon one’s friends as so many pleasant dishes, is +offered as a suggestion. He says:</p> + +<p class="poem">If our landlord supplies us with beef and with fish,<br /> +Let each guest bring himself, and he brings the best dish:<br /> +Our Dean shall be venison, just fresh from the plains;<br /> +Our Burke shall be tongue, with a garnish of brains;<br /> +Our Will shall be wild fowl of excellent flavour,<br /> +And Dick with his pepper shall heighten the savour;<br /> +Our Cumberland’s sweetbread its place shall obtain,<br /> +And Douglas is pudding, substantial and plain;<br /> +Our Garrick’s a salad, for in him we see<br /> +Oil, vinegar, sugar, and saltness agree:...<br /> +At a dinner so various—at such a repast,<br /> +Who’d not be a glutton, and stick to the last?</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>The Host and Hostess.</b></span> The hostess should give her instructions for the details of +the entertainment so explicitly that on the arrival of the +guests she will have no care other than their pleasure.</p> + +<p>If she is nervous, has wandering eyes, or shows constraint, +it affects sensibly the ease of her guests. The spirit of +pleasure is infectious, and upon the demeanor of the hosts +the success of the evening largely depends. Much tact may be +shown in placing the right people together at the table. If +one is a great talker let the other be a good listener; if +one is dogmatic let the other be without positive views, and +so on; for as every one is happiest when appearing well, it +is wise to consider the idiosyncrasies of the guests.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>’T is a great point in a gallery how you hang your pictures; +and not less in society how you seat your party.</p></div> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>The Guests.</b></span> The part of the hosts is thus well defined; but the guests, too, have +their obligations, and in recognition of the compliment of being +included in an entertainment where the number of guests is limited to +very few, each one should make exertion to be agreeable,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span> as a dull +dinner companion is a recognized misfortune. At a dinner there is time, +not given at most other forms of entertainment, for rational and +sustained conversation, and this may be turned to durance vile if one +victimizes by egotism or caprice the person who without power of +withdrawal is assigned to his or her society for perhaps two hours or +more. Also, if one finds oneself neighbor to some person for whom one +has a personal antipathy, it must not be allowed to interfere with the +general pleasure; and should such a situation occur, there is nothing to +do but to make the best of it, and conceal from the hostess the mistake +she has unwittingly made—</p> + +<p class="poem">And do as adversaries do in law,<br /> +Strive mightily, but eat and drink as friends.</p> + +<p>Under these circumstances the discovery may possibly be made that an +unfriendly person is more agreeable than was supposed, and a pleasanter +relationship may be established.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Time.</b></span> Two hours is the extreme limit of time that should be given to a dinner; +one hour and a quarter, or a half, is preferable. Eight courses served +quickly, but without seeming haste, require as much time as most people +can sit at the table without fatigue. Last impressions are as enduring +as first ones, so it is important not to surfeit, for</p> + +<p class="blockquot">When fatigue enters into so-called pleasure, failure begins.</p> + +<p>Judgment shown in combination of dishes, the perfection of their +preparation, careful serving, and taste in adornment, are elements of +refinement that far outweigh quantity and ostentation.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Temperature.</b></span> The temperature and ventilation of the dining-room should be given +careful attention. The best of spirits and the brightest wit will flag +in an overheated, ill-<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span>ventilated room. It is not always easy to +maintain a fresh atmosphere where as many guests are seated as the size +of the room permits, but at least the room can be well aired before the +dinner is served. Windows opened a very little from both the top and +bottom in an adjoining room, with a careful adjustment of screens to +protect those who are sensitive to drafts, will do much to keep the air +fresh, and will have a sensible effect upon the comfort and mental +activity of the company.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>The Invitation.</b></span> Invitations are sometimes sent out a month or three weeks in advance, +but ordinarily two weeks is sufficient time to secure the guests one +wishes to entertain. Courtesy requires a dinner invitation to be +answered at once, certainly within twelve hours, but better in less +time. This enables the hostess to fill the vacancy in case the +invitation is declined. Unconventional people are sometimes unmindful of +this obligation, but as a rule those who are accustomed to entertaining +recognize the importance of a prompt reply, and answer a dinner +invitation immediately.</p> + +<p>It is well, when convenient, to send the invitation as well as the reply +by hand, so that there may be no uncertainty of prompt delivery; to send +either of them by post is, however, permissible.</p> + +<p>The answer should be definite, and where a man and his wife are invited, +if one of them is unable to accept, the invitation should be declined +for both. An invitation should be precise in expression, therefore the +prescribed form given below should be exactly followed. It does not +belong to the order of social notes; it is simply a formal invitation, +and an acceptance should be of the same character. Any deviation from +the prescribed form is uncalled for and likely to cause criticism. In +declining the invitation, however, it is considered more gracious to +answer the formal<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span> note informally, and, by stating the reason, show +that the regret is not merely a perfunctory expression.</p> + +<p>Verbal invitations or replies should never be given for formal +entertainments. R. S. V. P. should not be put on a dinner invitation. +Every well-bred person knows an answer is necessary, and it is a +reflection upon good manners to assume that no reply would be given if +the request for it were omitted.</p> + +<p>It is important also that the reply should repeat, in the same words as +the invitation, the date and hour of the dinner, so, if any mistake has +inadvertently been made, it may be corrected, thus establishing an exact +understanding.</p> + +<p>A dinner engagement is the most exacting of any social obligation, and +no greater discourtesy can be shown than to break it except for serious +cause.</p> + +<div class="center" style="width: 20em; margin: auto;"> +<p class="titlepage"><span class="sidenote"><b>Form of Invitation.</b></span> <i>Mr. and Mrs. James J. James<br /> +request the pleasure of<br /> +Mr. and Mrs. Smith’s<br /> +company at dinner, on Monday,<br /> +December twenty-third, at<br /> +eight o’clock.</i></p> + +<p class="noindent">99 <i>West A Street,</i><br /> +<span style="padding-left: 2em;"><i>Dec. 1st.</i></span></p> +</div> + +<p>Envelop addressed to Mrs. John B. Smith.</p> + +<hr class="decshort" /> + +<div class="center" style="width: 20em; margin: auto;"> +<p class="titlepage"><span class="sidenote"><b>Reply.</b></span> <i>Mr. and Mrs. John B. Smith<br /> +accept with pleasure<br /> +Mr. and Mrs. James’s<br /> +kind invitation to dinner on<br /> +Monday, December twenty-third,<br /> +at eight o’clock.</i></p> + +<p class="noindent"><i>66 West B Street,</i><br /> +<span style="padding-left: 2em;"><i>Dec. 1st.</i></span></p> +</div> + +<p>Envelop addressed to Mrs. James J. James.</p> + +<hr class="decshort" /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span></p> + +<div class="center" style="width: 20em; margin: auto;"> +<p class="titlepage"><i>Mr. and Mrs. John B. Smith<br /> +regret that they are unable to accept<br /> +Mr. and Mrs. James’s<br /> +kind invitation to dinner on<br /> +Monday, December twenty-third,<br /> +at eight o’clock.</i></p> + +<p class="noindent"><i>66 West B Street,</i><br /> +<span style="padding-left: 2em;"><i>Dec. 1st.</i></span></p> + +<p class="titlepage">OR,</p> + +<p class="titlepage"><i>Mr. and Mrs. John B. Smith<br /> +regret that owing to a previous<br /> +engagement they are unable to accept<br /> +Mr. and <a name="corr2" id="corr2"></a>Mrs. James’s<br /> +kind invitation to dinner on<br /> +Monday, December twenty-third,<br /> +at eight o’clock.</i></p> + +<p class="noindent"><i>66 West B Street,</i><br /> +<span style="padding-left: 2em;"><i>Dec. 1st.</i></span></p> +</div> + +<hr class="decshort" /> + +<p>Where an invitation is meant to be informal, a social form of note with +formal phraseology is often sent, thus:</p> + +<div class="center" style="width: 30em; margin: auto;"> +<p><i>My dear Mrs. Smith</i>:</p> + +<p style="text-indent: 10em;"><i>Will you and Mr. Smith dine with us informally on Thursday evening, +December twenty-third, at eight o’clock?</i></p> + +<p style="margin-left: 7em;"><i>Sincerely yours</i>,<br /> +<span style="padding-left: 9em;"><i>Mary James.</i></span></p> + +<p class="noindent"><i>99 West A Street,</i><br /> +<span style="padding-left: 2em;"><i>Dec. 1st.</i></span></p> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span>This form of invitation is sometimes misleading to strangers, as the +word “informal” is open to different interpretations.</p> + +<p>These dinners are generally quite as formal as the others, and require +the same toilet.</p> + +<p>A woman’s dinner dress should be décolleté, and for a man evening dress +is always <i>de rigueur</i>.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Dress.</b></span> The butler wears a dress suit with white tie. The footman, or second +man, wears the livery of the family, or, in default of that, a coat of +dark color, with brass buttons, and a bright-colored striped waistcoat.</p> + +<p>The dining-room maid wears a plain black dress, a white apron that +covers completely the front of her skirt, a linen collar and deep cuffs, +and a small white cap, with or without strings, but no crown. Everything +in a well-ordered household is supposed to be clean, including the hands +of the domestics, and the use of white gloves is not permissible. +First-class butlers and footmen do not wear mustaches.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Arrival.</b></span> Guests are expected at the hour mentioned in the invitation, and should +be as near that time as possible. In large cities, where distances are +great and exact time difficult to calculate, a little grace is allowed, +but the hostess is not expected to wait longer than fifteen minutes for +a tardy guest. It is considered a breach of etiquette to be late, and +the assumption is, when this occurs, that the delay is unavoidable and +will be indefinite, and so the other guests should not be +inconvenienced.</p> + +<p>At large dinners a gentleman finds in the dressing-room, or a servant +passes to him before he enters the drawing-room, a tray holding small +addressed envelops. He selects the one bearing his own name, and finds +on an inclosed card the name of the lady he is to take to the table. The +letter R or L in the corner of the card denotes whether he will find his +place on the right<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span> or left of the table from the entrance. If he does +not know the lady, he should tell the hostess, so that he may be +presented to her. The hostess stands near the door to receive her +guests, and such introductions follow as can conveniently be made. If +general introductions are omitted, guests are expected to act as though +acquainted, and speak to whomever they may be near. This rule holds good +for all entertainments in some countries, but Americans continue a +reserve except at dinners, where barriers to ease and pleasure must not +exist. The hostess does not knowingly bring together people who object +to meet one another, but in such an event the acquaintanceship need not +extend beyond the evening, and good breeding requires a courteous +recognition of the friends of the hostess while under her roof.</p> + +<p>The butler keeps count of the arrival of expected guests, and announces +dinner shortly after all are in the drawing-room. In case of a tardy +guest he waits for the hostess to order the dinner served. <span class="sidenote"><b>Announcement.</b></span> He then +enters the room, and, looking at the host or hostess, says, “Dinner is +served,” or “Madam is served,” or simply bows to the hostess.</p> + +<p>The host then offers his right arm to the lady who is to sit at his +right, and leads the way into the dining-room; the other couples follow +in any order that is convenient. <span class="sidenote"><b>Precedence.</b></span> The hostess, with the gentleman she +honors with the seat at her right, are the last to leave the +drawing-room. If a distinguished man is present, it is to him this +courtesy is shown. Except in official and diplomatic circles, there is +no other rule of precedence. If the President of the United States or a +royal personage were being entertained, the hostess with this dignitary +would then precede the others.</p> + +<p>At each cover is laid a card on which is distinctly written the name of +the person who is to occupy that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span> place. Confusion is thus avoided in +seating the guests. It has been a fashion to have these cards artistic +and elaborate in design, but at present plain gilt-edged cards stamped +with the family crest or monogram are more generally used.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Departure.</b></span> When the dinner is finished, the gentlemen return to the drawing-room +with the ladies, and then withdraw to the smoking-room for half an hour. +Shortly after their return to the drawing-room the guests take their +leave. If guests of honor are present, they are the first to go.</p></div> + + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="MANNER_OF_SERVING_DINNERS_10" id="MANNER_OF_SERVING_DINNERS_10"></a>MANNER OF SERVING DINNERS</h3> + + +<div class="explanations"><p><span class="smcap">The</span> custom of serving dinner <i>à la Russe</i> (dishes passed) has +supplanted the form known as the English style, where the +joints are carved on the table. This is for good reason, as +the host cannot well fulfil his social part if he has to do +the carving; therefore, unless on very informal occasions, +when the number of servants may be insufficient, the carving +is done on the side-table, or the garnished dishes are cut in +the kitchen. The portions, whether carved or otherwise, are +placed on dishes to be passed, and should be so arranged that +each guest may remove a part easily and without destroying the +symmetry of the whole. This need not preclude attractive +garnishing, but such complicated constructions as are sometimes +seen, which embarrass one to find how to break them, should be +avoided.</p> + +<p>Sometimes a dish is placed on the table to be shown, and +then removed to be served.</p> + +<p>The dishes are presented on the left side. <span class="sidenote"><b>Passing the Dishes.</b></span> Those of the +first course are passed first to the lady sitting on the +right of the host, and then in regular order to the right +around the table. The dishes of each following course are +started at some distance from the place where the preceding +one was presented. In this way the same person is not left +always to be served last.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Number of Servants.</b></span> At least one servant is needed for every six persons, +otherwise the service will be slow and tedious, and the +portion placed on one’s plate becomes cold before the +accompaniments of sauce or vegetable can be passed.</p> + +<p>Many dishes may be garnished with the vegetable<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span> or sauce, +thus obviating in a measure this difficulty. For large dinners +two or more dishes should be arranged to pass on opposite +sides of the table, so that every one may be served at about +the same time. Plates, vegetable, and other large dishes are +held in the hand of the servant. Small dishes, like hors +d'œuvres, bonbon dishes, etc., are passed on a tray.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Wines.</b></span> When the wines are served, the servant should name the wine +offered, so that it may be refused if not wanted; the glasses +should not be filled entirely full.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Plates.</b></span> When a plate is removed it should be immediately replaced by +another one holding a fork or any piece of silver or cutlery +which is needed for the next course.</p> + +<p>Plates should be removed with the left and replaced with the +right hand.</p> + +<p>Care should be taken that plates for the hot dishes are +warm, but not hot, and that for the cold dishes they are not +lukewarm.</p> + +<p>The plate holding the shell-fish is placed upon the one +already on the table; this under plate is used also to hold +the soup plate, but double plates are not again used until +the end of the dinner, when the dessert plate holding the +finger-bowl plate is put on. In case a hot sweet dish is +served, the double plates, being intended for ices, fruits, +and bonbons, are not put on until after that course. Silver +serving-dishes are much used; lacking these, all the china +used in the same course should match when possible.</p> + +<p>A different set of plates may be used with each course. <span class="sidenote"><b>China.</b></span> In the +matter of china the greatest latitude of taste and expense is +possible, some china being more valuable than its weight in +silver. When handsome china is being used, which demands great +care in handling, it is well to have a table in the pantry +reserved for its use, where it can be carefully piled and left +until the following morning to be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span> washed. <span class="sidenote"><b>Care of China.</b></span> With daylight and +ample time, it can be given the care it might not receive if +washed after the fatigue and late hours of a long dinner. This +need not necessarily mean leaving a disordered pantry for the +night, although that would be of less consequence than the +extra risk of having valuable china nicked or broken. The same +care is recommended for handsome glass.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Clearing the Table.</b></span> Before the dessert is served, all the plates, the small +silver, the salt- and pepper-boxes, the hors d'œuvres, +and such glasses as will not be again used are removed; the +crumbs are then taken off, a silver crumb knife and a plate +being used for this purpose. The dessert and finger-bowl +plates are then put on. Under the finger-bowl is placed a +small fancy doily, and beside it on the same plate such +small silver as will be needed. If peaches, or any fruit +which will stain, are to be served, a fruit doily should +also be given at this time and laid beside the place. The +finger-bowl should be filled one third with water, and have +a thin slice of lemon, a scented leaf, or a flower floating +in it.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>The Service.</b></span> The service should be entirely noiseless, and the machinery +of the household as invisible as possible. There should be +no rattling of china or silver, no creaking boots, or heavy +tread, or audible speech among the servants.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Ordering the Dinner.</b></span> When entertaining one should not attempt more than one is sure +of being able to attain, bearing in mind the capabilities of +the cook and the range, and remembering that the quality of +the dishes rather than the number of them is what pleases. +Experiments should be made at times when failure is of less +consequence. In arranging the menu, each course should be in +pleasing contrast to the preceding one, and in the same course +only such dishes should be served as go well together. Butter +is not served at dinner.</p></div> + + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="LAYING_THE_TABLE_13" id="LAYING_THE_TABLE_13"></a>LAYING THE TABLE</h3> + + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>The Table.</b></span> <span class="smcap">A round</span> or square table five feet across is a convenient size +for ordinary use, giving ample room for six people, and +leaving space for decoration. Large round tops are made to fit +over extension-tables, which will seat from twelve to twenty +or more people; and when the size of the room will permit, +this is the pleasantest form of table for entertainments, and +best lends itself to decorative effects, giving to each person +a complete picture of the table and of the company assembled.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>The Linen.</b></span> A thick cotton material, which is made for the purpose, for +interlining between table and cloth, is the first requisite in +laying the table, and should always be used. It protects the +polished surface of the table from injury, gives a more +brilliant whiteness to the cloth, and prevents any noise when +placing the china and silver upon the table. The linen should +be as fine as the purse will allow. Handsome linen will give +elegance to a table where ornamentation is very simple. It +should be ironed without starch, or with a very little if it +is not sufficiently heavy to take polish without it. It +should be folded perfectly square, so that the lines will be +straight, and should be of spotless and dazzling whiteness. +With this as a basis, there will be no difficulty in making +an attractive table.</p> + +<p>In the way of linen, much taste may be shown in the ornamental +pieces used in the center of the table. These may be of any +shape or size desired, from a small square to a long scarf. +They may be of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span> embroidered linen, drawn-work, lace, plain +silk or satin; but wash materials are preferable, and effects +of color, when desired, can be obtained in the embroidery +or linings. The attractiveness of these pieces depends on +their daintiness. The fashion of a center-piece of linen +is, however, a passing one, as they are not at present so +generally used.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>The order of laying the Table.</b></span> After the interlining has been spread, the cloth should be +laid with great care, making the center fold run perfectly +straight with the room, and the cross fold again exactly +divide the table at right angles to the other crease. By these +straight lines, everything else is gaged. The fancy linen +piece is next laid, and its center must coincide with that of +the cloth. If the piece is square, it sometimes has better +effect to place the points on the long lines of the cloth, +giving it a diamond shape; this, however, is a matter of +fancy. The center ornament is then placed on the exact point +where the folds of the cloth cross in the middle of the table. +The plates are next put in position, attention being given to +the decoration on the china, if it be a monogram that it is +right side up, if flowers that they are in natural position, +etc. Where there are an uneven number of covers it is better +to place the plates at equal distances around the table, +without regard to the place of the hostess being opposite to +that of the host. In other cases, the plates at the head and +foot of the table, and those on the sides, should be directly +opposite each other. Under no circumstances must the plates be +omitted. On the left of the plates place the forks; three or +four may be put on and laid in the order in which they will be +used. Three knives (one of them being a silver knife for the +fish course) and the oyster fork are placed on the right of +the plate; the soup spoon may go in front of the plate or with +the knives on the right; the bowls<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span> of the forks and spoons +should be right side up, the edges of the knives turned toward +the plate.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 407px;"> +<a name="illus-016-f-1" id="illus-016-f-1"></a><a href="images/illus-016-f-1-full.png"><img src="images/illus-016-f-1.png" width="407" height="411" alt="DIAGRAM OF TABLE." title="" /></a> +<span class="caption" style="text-align: left;">DIAGRAM OF TABLE.</span> +<ul class="illus"> + <li>A. Plates.</li> + <li>B. Plant, Flowers, Fruit, Lamp, or ornamental piece of silver.</li> + <li>C. Compotiers, holding cakes, fruit, or flowers.</li> + <li>D. Candlesticks or Candelabra.</li> + <li>E. Salt and Pepper Boxes.</li> + <li>F. Water and Wine Glasses.</li> + <li>G. Bonbons, or Hors d'œuvres, or Carafes.</li> + <li>H. Bonbons, or Hors d'œuvres.</li> +</ul> +</div> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 417px;"> +<a name="illus-016-f-2" id="illus-016-f-2"></a><a href="images/illus-016-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-016-f-2.jpg" width="417" height="200" alt="Position of plates and glasses" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">DETAIL OF ONE COVER.</span> +</div> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>The Decoration.</b></span> After the plates and small silver and cutlery are in position, +the decorating of the table should proceed as far as possible. +The position for everything can be best determined after the +plates are laid. The perishable articles, that cannot be put +on until the last moment, can usually have their position +located by the compotiers or the bonbon dishes which will hold +them. Uniformity is not required in having two or four of +these dishes to match, but such ornamental holders as are used +must be placed in uniform positions, so as to balance and +harmonize. Any deviation from this rule, or neglect of the +small details in placing the table furniture, will give the +effect of a disordered table.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Lights.</b></span> The candlesticks, or candelabra, as the case may be, should be +so placed as not to obstruct the views across the table. This +may be determined by two persons taking seats on opposite +sides of the table, viewing each other from different places, +and moving the candelabra until the right position is found, +which usually will not be more than an inch or two either way. +It is well to give attention to this matter, as comfort is +much disturbed and conversation interrupted from shutting out +by this kind of screen the different persons at the table. +Before being placed on the table candles should be fitted +firmly and straight in their sockets, be lighted for a few +minutes, and then the wicks should be cut and the shades +fitted squarely upon the holders. This will prevent smoking, +dripping and other annoyances that may occur if it is not +done. Shade-holders that fit the top of the candle are very +objectionable and dangerous, but those that clasp the candle +below the heated part give little trouble.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span></p> + +<p>Salt- and pepper-boxes are placed at the corners of the table, +or within easy reach of every two people if more than four are +used. If carafes are used the same rule is observed. After the +decoration of the table is completed as far as possible, the +glasses are put on. There is danger of their being broken if +put on before. They are placed in uniform groups at the right +of the plates: the water glass nearest the plate, and the +wine-glass to be first used nearest the edge of the table. +Port and Madeira glasses are not put on until the time for +serving those wines, which is at the end of the dinner.</p> + +<p>The napkin, folded in triangular shape, the embroidered +monogram on top, is laid on the plate, and a piece of bread +cut two inches long and one and a half inches thick, or more +generally a dinner roll, is laid in the fold, but left in +full sight, so that it will not be shaken on to the floor +when the napkin is lifted.</p> + +<p>Everything that will be needed in serving the dinner should be +convenient to hand. <span class="sidenote"><b>The Sideboard.</b></span> The plates to be warmed should be in the +hot closet; those for the cold courses, the finger-bowls, +extra small silver and cutlery, extra rolls and cracked ice, +should be on the sideboard, so that there will be no delay in +getting them when needed.</p> + +<p>Foot-stools placed under the table for the ladies add much +to their comfort.</p></div> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span></p> + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="TABLE_DECORATION_17" id="TABLE_DECORATION_17"></a>TABLE DECORATION</h3> + + +<div class="explanations"><p><span class="smcap">There</span> is wide range for individual taste and artistic +arrangement in table decoration, which is limited only by +the resources at one’s command.</p> + +<p>Pleasing effects of color are perhaps the first consideration. +Of late it has been a fashion to have one prevailing color. In +many cases this is very suitable as well as complimentary to +the guests entertained. For instance, a white dinner to a +bride, pink to young people, red to a Harvard company, or +yellow to those with Princeton affiliations.</p> + +<p>The scheme of color is often carried through the menu as far +as possible; the dishes served corresponding in color to the +table decorations. Where this is done the colors should be +light and delicate. Dark shades are not pleasing, and suggest +the name “painted foods,” which has been scornfully given to +them.</p> + +<p>Of all colors green is the easiest to carry out, and perhaps +the most pleasing. The many shades of green give variety +and contrasts. Ferns make a light and dainty centerpiece, +and rival flowers in beauty. For the menu spinach gives +a soup, vegetable, and coloring for sauces. Green salads are +numerous. Angelica makes a decoration for desserts. Pistachio +nuts give flavor and color to ice-cream, icings, and bonbons. +A very beautiful and elaborate dinner on this scheme is +described below, which was called in the invitation “Al +Fresco,” and in its design and execution well simulated an +out-door entertainment. Green is a soft, reposeful color; +red, pink,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span> and yellow are gayer, and give a more festive +aspect. Yellow is sunny in effect, and for a yellow dinner +the color scheme may be obtained with yellow flowers, oranges, +silver-gilt compotiers, gilded china, and with light diffused +through yellow shades. For the culinary part the yolks of eggs +render important service for coloring, covering, and garnishing, +and oranges furnish many delicious dishes.</p> + +<p><a name="White_dinners_18" id="White_dinners_18"></a>White dinners are also easy to arrange with white flowers, +silver, a profusion of cut-glass, lace shades, white grapes, +spun sugar, whipped cream, white sauces, celery, whites of +eggs, white meats, etc.</p> + +<p>A white dinner is likely to be too severe, however, unless +carefully managed. Delicate ferns can be mixed with white +flowers without changing the effect, and a warm glow may be +thrown on the table from a center light in the chandelier, +screened with thin pink or yellow silk, and raised high, so as +not to appear as a part of the decoration. The most beautiful +pictures of snow scenes are not a dead white, but reflect the +color of the sunset or atmosphere.</p> + +<p>Fruits and flowers typical of the season are in good taste, +and usually more pleasing than hot-house products. In the +spring, tulips, daffodils, lilies of the valley, or any wild +flowers. Goldenrod, chrysanthemums, and asters in their times. +Autumn leaves and berries later, holly and mistletoe at +Christmas, and lilies at Easter, while in the summer the +fields and lanes afford a wealth of material. At other times, +and where the purse does not permit indulgence in roses and +forced flowers, the resources lie in potted plants and fruits. +Any plant not too large, which looks fresh and healthy, will +make a pleasing centerpiece. The crotons and dracænas give +beautiful colors. A dish of growing ferns makes an attractive, +satisfactory and enduring center ornament. With care the ferns +will<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span> last a long time, and at small expense can be renewed. +Double silver-plated boxes, both square and oval, are made for +this use.</p> + +<p>Fruits are always pleasing and give good color effects.</p> + +<p>The success of any decoration depends largely upon the +proper lighting of the table; lacking this, beautiful +arrangements may appear commonplace or wholly lose their +effect.</p> + +<p>The <a name="corr3" id="corr3"></a>decorated dinner-table should be the especial picture of +the room, the conspicuous object of interest and beauty for +the time; therefore the light should be centered upon it and +the rest of the room form but the shadowy background. The +pleasantest light is from shaded single candles, placed at +intervals around the table, and a more brilliant light thrown +on the center of the table from the shaded drop-light of +a chandelier, or from large candelabra holding groups of +candles.</p> + +<p>Small lamps which fit candlesticks are much used, and when +there are open windows and drafts they give much less trouble +than candles. Effects of color are largely obtained from the +use of shades. These vary in size and shape to suit the fancy +or fashion of the moment, and are made of silk, lace, or +paper; for the latter, crape papers are much used. Shades +recently brought from Paris were of translucent paper painted +by hand to imitate china. Making shades is pleasant fancy +work, and the materials are so inexpensive that one can easily +indulge in a variety of them. With a centerpiece of polished +red apples and candles with red shades, or a potted plant and +green shades, quite a definite and pleasing character may be +given to a simple dinner. High ornaments should be avoided +except they be candelabra or lamps which do not obstruct the +view across the table. It is very<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span> annoying to be forced to +look around ornaments when trying to talk to a person seated +opposite at table; such a screen effectually debars general +conversation. On large or long tables, large ornamental pieces +should be used. Those appropriate to a small table often +appear scanty and insufficient on a large one. Masses of one +color are more effective than mixtures, and a display of +abundance may be made on large tables while on small ones +daintiness is more pleasing.</p> + +<p>Confectioner’s pieces are again being used for dinner +decorations. Baskets and horns of plenty made of nougat or +pulled sugar, holding glacé fruits, and forms made of spun +sugar are in good taste, but imitations of art objects and +high pyramids, such as are used on supper tables, should be +excluded.</p> + +<p>A pleasing decoration for a hot day may be made of a block of +ice set in a pan deep enough to hold the drippings, but placed +on something to raise it above the sides of the pan. The pan +should be concealed with moss and ferns, or flowers, arranged +around it loosely so as to partly conceal the ice also. A +hole cut through the center of the block of ice, and a flat +candle, such as are used in night lamps, placed within it, +gives a brilliant and lovely effect. The block of ice should +be cut square and weigh at least ten pounds. This decoration +is easily managed in the country, where ferns are readily +obtainable.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 658px;"> +<a name="illus-020-f" id="illus-020-f"></a><a href="images/illus-020-f-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-020-f.jpg" width="658" height="435" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">ROUND DINNER-TABLE WITH EIGHTEEN +COVERS—CLOTH OF PINK INDIA SILK COVERED WITH LACE—CENTER +ORNAMENT OF FERNS—BUNCH OF PINK ROSES IN FRONT OF EACH +COVER.</span> +</div> + +<p>A pan filled with floating water-lilies, together with their +buds and leaves, the pan being concealed in a bed of moss and +ferns, makes also a pretty decoration for a luncheon table. +These flowers close at night, and so are only suitable for +daylight service. A table may be made beautiful by entirely +covering it with a mass of the same kind of flowers, leaving +only enough space around the edge to hold the plates and +glasses. The flowers may or may not be raised in the center of +the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span> table, or may in any way simulate a garden-bed. When +daisies are used they should be plentifully mixed with grasses +as they are in the field. Care must be used not to make the +decoration high, or the effect will be lost; and to avoid this +the stems of the flowers, cut the desired length, can be stuck +into wet sand or moss, held in flat tins. This will hold them +firmly in place, as well as keep them fresh. An English +fashion is to have a piece of silver ornament the table, +without accessories of fruits or flowers. This severe but +elegant simplicity is perhaps a reaction from the overloading +of tables which has long prevailed.</p> + +<p>A pink dinner given in Washington was arranged as follows: The +table was round and large enough to seat eighteen persons. +A covering of thin ivory-colored India silk over pink was cut +round to fit the table, and a frill of lace ten inches deep +fell over a ruffle of pink silk on the edge. A large square +of silk gauze embroidered in pink covered the center of the +table. A mound of maiden-hair ferns formed the centerpiece. +Around this were placed pink candles in Venetian-glass +candlesticks and shaded with full frills of lace over pink. +The bonbon dishes and all the glasses were of Venetian and +Bohemian glass. Four ornamental candy pieces were used: two +were garden hats holding glazed cherries, and a pink ribbon +tied around each hat held a large bunch of pink roses. The +other two were baskets, and held frosted grapes which were +half hidden under spun sugar. Ornamental silver was omitted, +as being out of harmony with the other decorations.</p> + +<p>A dinner unique in its character was given a few years ago +by Lord Dufferin, the English ambassador to France. The +centerpiece was flowers, and candelabra lighted the table; +but in place of the dessert dishes which ordinarily do +ornamental service were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span> choice bits of bric-à-brac collected +by the ambassador in various parts of the world. The curios +served as an interesting novelty, and became the subject of +conversation. A dinner given in Jamaica is described, where +orchids in profusion were suspended over the table, some on +climbing vines, and others, of such delicate form and texture +as made it seem not unnatural, appeared as though floating in +the air.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span>The “Al Fresco” dinner referred to above was in imitation of a +woodland scene. It was served in a dining-room the walls of +which were hung with tapestries. The ceiling decoration was +blue sky with white clouds. A profusion of palms, bay-trees, +and rubber-plants were placed about the room and screened the +side-boards. The dining-table was a mass of verdure. It was +round, seating eighteen persons. The whole center of the table +was depressed eight inches, leaving an outside rim fourteen +inches wide for the plates and glasses. The center space was +filled with growing plants, the top of the pots being on a +level with the outside rim. The pots were concealed by mosses +and loose ferns making a solid mass of green. Four tall +slender plants rose from the center, the rest was of ferns +and lycopodium with here and there a few primroses. Green +candles with fluffy green shades in glass candlesticks were +so distributed as to give sufficient light. The space left +for the dinner service was covered with light-green India +silk over canton flannel. On the back of the menu cards were +water-color sketches of forest scenes. The menu was largely +composed of products of the forest. The aspect of this dinner +was really sylvan, and the idea so well carried out that the +elaboration of it was artistically hidden. From the time of +Lucullus, dinner-givers have been striving for novelties, but +as a rule any radical departure from conventional forms is a +failure.</p> + + +<h3 class="recipe"><a name="AL_FRESCO_DINNER_23" id="AL_FRESCO_DINNER_23"></a>MENU OF THE “AL FRESCO” DINNER</h3> + +<div class="center" style="width: 30em; margin: auto;"> +<p class="titlepage"><i>Soup</i></p> + +<p>Cream of Celery (colored green).</p> + +<p class="titlepage"><i>Fish</i></p> + +<p>Brook Trout, Butter Sauce.</p> + +<p class="titlepage"><i>Entrée</i></p> + +<p>Mushrooms on Crusts.</p> + +<p class="titlepage"><i>Roast</i></p> + +<p>Saddle of Venison. Wild plum sauce. Saratoga potatoes. Green +peas served in fontage cups.</p> + +<p>Salpicon of Fruits au Rhum.</p> + +<p class="titlepage"><i>Game and Salad</i></p> + +<p>Quails in nests of Purée of Chestnuts. English Walnuts and +Celery mixed with green Mayonnaise in cups of molded tomato +jelly.</p> + +<p class="titlepage"><i>Cheese</i></p> + +<p>Small balls of Cream-cheese, colored green to imitate bird’s +eggs, in nests of shredded Lettuce.</p> + +<p class="titlepage"><i>Hot Entremet</i></p> + +<p>Individual Nut Puddings (burning).</p> + +<p class="titlepage"><i>Dessert</i></p> + +<p>Pistache Ice Cream Pralinée, molded in a ring, the center +filled with whipped cream. White cakes with green icing. +Fruits. Coffee.</p> +</div> +</div> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="COURSES_24" id="COURSES_24"></a>COURSES</h3> + + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> order of the dinner service is soup, fish, flesh, fowl. +These may be supplemented to any extent with entremets and +entrées. Mets are the principal dishes. Entremets, the dishes +served between the mets. Entrées, dishes which are served +between any of the courses.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>First Course.</b></span> I. <b>Course.</b> Canapés of caviare, small bits of anchovy toast, or +in their season muskmelons, are sometimes served as the first +course, but ordinarily oysters or clams on the half shell is +the first dish presented. The smallest-sized shell-fish are +preferable to the large ones. One half dozen are served on +each plate and placed symmetrically on or around a bed of +cracked ice; a quarter of a lemon cut lengthwise is placed +in the center. Cayenne pepper and grated horse-radish are +passed with this course, also very thin slices of brown bread +buttered and folded together, then cut into small squares or +triangular-shaped pieces. The plates holding the shell-fish +may be placed on the table before dinner is announced; but as +there is no place to conveniently lay the folded napkin +except on the plate, it is as well not to serve the mollusks +until the guests are seated.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Second Course: Soup.</b></span> II. <b>Course: Soup.</b> It is better to serve a clear soup when the +dinner is to be of many courses, as heavy soups are too +hearty. The choice of two kinds of soup may be offered. Grated +Parmesan cheese may be passed with clear soups, dice of fried +bread with cream soups, and toasted cracker biscuits with any<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span> +kind of soup. One ladleful of soup is sufficient for each +person, and a second portion is not offered. An anecdote is +told of a punctilious person who, being asked if he would be +helped again to soup, answered, “Thanks, not to-day.”</p> + +<p>Hors d'œuvres, which are radishes, celery, olives, etc., +are passed after the soup. Salted almonds are taken at any +time through the dinner.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Third Course: Fish.</b></span> III. <b>Course: Fish.</b> Fish, if boiled or fried, is served upon +a napkin. If baked no napkin is used, and a little sauce is +spread on the dish. Boiled potatoes are served with boiled +fish, and are more attractive when cut with a potato-scoop +into small balls. Cucumbers dressed with oil and vinegar are +also served with fish.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Fourth Course: Entrées.</b></span> IV. <b>Course: Entrées.</b> Entrées can be served between any of the +courses, or they may be omitted altogether; but a variety of +attractive dishes come under this head, and usually one is +served after the fish.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Fifth Course: Vegetables.</b></span> V. <b>Course: Vegetables.</b> A vegetable, such as asparagus, +artichokes, cauliflower, is served at this time, although the +French reserve the vegetable until after the joint. Only one +vegetable besides potato is permitted with a meat course, and +if more are wanted they are served as a separate course.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Sixth Course.</b></span> VI. <b>Course.</b> The joint with one green vegetable and potato.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Seventh Course.</b></span> VII. <b>Course.</b> Frozen punch, when served, comes between the +meat and game courses. It is not passed, but a glassful +standing on a plate, with a coffee spoon beside it, is +placed before each person.</p> + +<p>If preferred, a cheese omelet or soufflé may be used instead +of punch for this course.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Eighth Course.</b></span> VIII. <b>Course: Game and Salad, or Poultry and Salad.</b> Game +is usually not passed, but the portions are laid on the +individual plates by the butler. This is done in order to +serve it as hot as possible. A small cold plate<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span> is sometimes +given for the salad; crescent-shaped plates are made for this +use. With ducks, celery and small squares of fried hominy are +served. When game or poultry is not used, cheese may be served +with the salad, or cheese-straws instead of cheese. When salad +is served with game or poultry, cheese and crackers may be +served immediately afterward as a separate course, or they may +be passed after the dessert.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Ninth Course.</b></span> IX. <b>Course.</b> Sweet puddings, soufflés, Bavarian cream, etc.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Tenth Course.</b></span> X. <b>Course.</b> Ice-cream or any frozen dessert. Cakes and +brandied peaches, preserved ginger, or wine-jellies may be +passed with ice-cream.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Eleventh Course.</b></span> XI. <b>Course.</b> Fruit, fresh or glacé, and bonbons.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Twelfth Course.</b></span> XII. <b>Course.</b> Coffee, liqueurs.</p> + +<p>Of the courses given above, the first, fourth, fifth, and +seventh, and a choice of either the ninth or tenth, may all, +or any one of them, be omitted.</p> + +<p>Black coffee in small cups is passed on a tray, with cream and +sugar, in the drawing- and smoking-rooms after the guests have +left the table.</p> + +<p>Apollinaris or other sparkling water is passed later, and is +usually welcomed.</p></div> + + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="THE_HOME_DINNER_27" id="THE_HOME_DINNER_27"></a>THE HOME DINNER</h3> + + +<div class="explanations"><p><span class="smcap">At</span> the every-day or family dinner there will naturally be less +elaboration in the decoration of the table, and fewer courses, +than when the dinner is an occasion of entertainment, but so +far as the appointments reach they should be observed with the +same precision and care. The dinner has always something of a +ceremonious character, being the time when the family all meet +with the leisure to enjoy one another’s society after the +labors of the day are done. It is well, therefore, to attend +to the few material details which aid in making the occasion +an agreeable one. Refinements are more clearly shown at table +than elsewhere, and the influences of decorum at dinner are +more subtle than are always recognized. Let the linen be as +spotless and white, the silver and glass as polished, and the +dishes, however few, be as carefully prepared as though +guests were present. The simplest dinner so ordered will +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span>give pleasure and satisfaction. When attention to details is +practised every day, company will cause no agitation in the +household. The refinements of the table are within the means +of the humblest. A word may also be said for manners at the +home table. The habit of fault-finding, commenting upon the +dishes and wines, correcting the mistakes of servants while +at the table, making apologies, etc., is reprehensible, +inefficacious and vulgar, and not only interrupts +conversation, but spoils the pleasure of the dinner hour. It +is always difficult, and often impossible, to improve a dish +after it is served; therefore, it is better to accept it +without remark. If the housekeeper, who is always the first to +observe faults in the service, can conceal her discomfiture, +it is but right for the others to be considerate. Faults +often pass unnoticed if attention is not called to them. Dr. +Johnson, it is said, always complained of his dinners, but +never omitted to say grace. Upon one such occasion his wife +interrupted him, saying, “Nay, hold, Mr. Johnson! Do not make +a farce of thanking God for a dinner which in a few minutes +you will pronounce uneatable.”</p> + +<p>The home table, with its every-day appointments, causing +one to blush in the event of a friend’s unexpected arrival, +is not to be excused in this day of advanced women in the +nineteenth century, when higher education has at least taught +them to regard their domestic duties in the light of a science +and an art.</p> + +<p>There are many simple dishes that can be quickly prepared +which will give the dinner a little more complimentary +character, and supply the little extra that may be needed +when more are present than were originally provided for. A +beefsteak can be virtually enlarged by serving with it a +mushroom sauce, for the mushrooms, having the same elements +of nutrition as the meat, permit the latter to be served +in smaller portions. A simple entrée, such as a dish of +macaroni, a scallop dish, a mince, with good sauce (which is +easily made where the stock pot is ever ready), a cheese +omelet, a vegetable salad, etc., etc., are suggested as a +few of the dishes, which are called by the French <i>plats +d’amitié</i>, and should enable any woman to enjoy the pleasure +of entertaining unexpected guests in a hospitable manner.</p></div> + + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="SERVING_THE_INFORMAL_DINNER_29" id="SERVING_THE_INFORMAL_DINNER_29"></a>SERVING THE INFORMAL DINNER</h3> + + +<div class="explanations"><p><span class="smcap">In</span> laying the table for an informal dinner, where the +carving is to be done on the table, a napkin to protect the +cloth is spread at the carver’s place. Very pretty fancy +pieces are made for this use, but an ordinary dinner napkin +will do. This is not removed until the table is cleared for +the dessert. When the carving is done on the table, the soup +and dessert are usually served by the lady of the house, and +the salad is also dressed on the table, and then passed. So +far as the service will allow, however, it is pleasanter to +have everything passed that does not need cutting.</p> + +<p>The vegetable dishes should never be placed on the table. +When the joint is put on the table, warm plates in a pile are +set at the left of, or before the carver, and when a portion +is served, the plate is lifted by the servant and placed +before the person for whom it is intended, without the use +of a tray. The plates placed on the table when it is laid +are used for holding the soup plates, and are not removed +until the ones holding the portions of the next course are +exchanged for them; if the succeeding course is to be passed, +warm or cold plates, as the course requires, are in turn +exchanged for them; but if the course is to be served from +the table, the places are meanwhile left without covers. +There should always be a plate before each person except in +this instance, and when the table is cleared for dessert. +Sharpening the carving-knife is a trial to the nerves of +many, and this infliction can be easily avoided by having +it done before dinner is announced.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span> Many good carvers, +however, seem to delight in this preliminary operation and +are unconscious of committing an act of impoliteness. The +attractiveness of a dish may be wholly lost by unskilful +carving, and the appetite may be destroyed by an overloaded +plate. Where but one substantial dish is served, it is +permissible to be helped a second time. The dish can be +removed to the side-table, and the second portions helped by +the servant, if the carver does not care to be interrupted in +his own dinner after he has performed the office of cutting +the joint.</p> + +<p>The sense of sight should always be considered, even though +it cost the trouble of replenishing a dish. No more than can +be used on one plate is served at the same time at any well +appointed table. One vegetable only, besides potatoes, is +served with the roast; if more are used, they are served as +courses separately.</p></div> + + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="LUNCHEON_31" id="LUNCHEON_31"></a>LUNCHEON</h3> + + +<div class="explanations"><p><span class="smcap">The</span> luncheon service does not differ materially from that of +dinner. Lighter dishes are usually served, entrées taking the +place of joints and roasts, and the soup or bouillon is served +in cups instead of soup plates. Grape fruit, or a fruit salad, +is often an acceptable first course.</p> + +<p>When the table has a handsome and polished surface the cloth +may be left off if desired and a fancy square take its place. +In this case small squares may also be used under the plates +to protect the table and in such other places as needed. +Drawn-work linen squares over mahogany make an attractive +luncheon table.</p> + +<p>When a large number of guests are being entertained at +luncheon, small tables placed in the different rooms (and on +the piazzas, if in the country) are often used, and these do +not admit of more than the slight decoration of a few flowers. +Luncheons of this kind are usually of an informal character +and secondary to some entertainment which has preceded them. A +few simple menus for luncheons are given below.</p> + +<h4 class="section"><a name="MENUS_FOR_LUNCHEON_31" id="MENUS_FOR_LUNCHEON_31"></a>MENUS FOR LUNCHEON</h4> + +<div style="width: 20em; margin: auto;"> +<h5 class="heading">No. 1.</h5> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Grape Fruit.</li> + <li>Bouillon.</li> + <li>Oyster Patties.</li> + <li>Chops and Peas.</li> + <li>Quail, Lettuce Salad.</li> + <li>Ice-Cream.</li> + <li>Cake.</li> + <li>Tea.</li> +</ul> + +<h5 class="heading">No. 2.</h5> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Melon.</li> + <li>Clams on Half-shell.</li> + <li>Cold Salmon, Sauce Tartare.</li> + <li>Filets Mignons, Sauce Béarnaise.</li> + <li>Omelet Soufflé.</li> + <li>Cheese.</li> + <li>Coffee.</li> +</ul> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span></p> + +<h5 class="heading">No. 3.</h5> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Grape Fruit.</li> + <li>Bouillon.</li> + <li>Shad Roe.</li> + <li><span class="double" style="float: left;">{</span> Broiled Chicken.<br /> + Green Peas.</li> + <li>Russian Salad.</li> + <li><span class="double" style="float: left;">{</span> Ice-Cream and Jelly.<br /> + Angel Cake.</li> + <li>Tea.</li> +</ul> + +<h5 class="heading">No. 4.</h5> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Bouillon.</li> + <li>Lobster à la Newburg.</li> + <li>Eggs Villeroi.</li> + <li>Sweetbreads and Peas.</li> + <li>French Chops, Potato Straws.</li> + <li class="hanging1">Russian Salad of Chicken Aspic, Celery and Walnuts (see <a href="#RUSSIAN_SALAD_383">receipt</a>).</li> + <li>Plum-Pudding Glacé.</li> + <li>Coffee.</li> +</ul> + +<h5 class="heading">No. 5.</h5> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Chicken Consommé.</li> + <li>Lobster Chops.</li> + <li>Mushrooms on Toast.</li> + <li>Sweetbreads and Peas.</li> + <li>Frozen Punch.</li> + <li>Quails on Toast.</li> + <li><span class="double" style="float: left;">{</span> Pâté de <a name="corr4" id="corr4"></a>Foie Gras en Bellevue.<br /> + Lettuce.</li> + <li>Charlotte Russe.</li> +</ul> + +<h5 class="heading">No. 6.</h5> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Clams.</li> + <li>Eggs à la Reine.</li> + <li><span class="double" style="float: left;">{</span> Planked Shad.<br /> + Cucumbers.</li> + <li><span class="double" style="float: left;">{</span> Broiled Squabs.<br /> + Vegetable Salad.</li> + <li>Ice-Cream.</li> + <li>Cheese.</li> + <li>Fruit.</li> +</ul> + +<h5 class="heading">No. 7.</h5> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Salpicon of Fruit.</li> + <li>Cream of Clams.</li> + <li>Salmon Cutlets, Cucumbers.</li> + <li>Curried Eggs.</li> + <li>Chicken à la Poulette.</li> + <li>Asparagus, Sauce Hollandaise.</li> + <li>Fruit Tart.</li> + <li>Chocolate <a name="corr5" id="corr5"></a>Pralinée.</li> +</ul> + +<h5 class="heading">No. 8.</h5> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Little Neck Clams.</li> + <li>Bouillon.</li> + <li>Vol-au-Vent.</li> + <li>Broiled Chicken, Peas.</li> + <li>Mushrooms.</li> + <li>Lobster Salad.</li> + <li>Gâteau St. Honoré.</li> + <li>Strawberries.</li> +</ul> +</div> + +<p>At a luncheon, given in a country house to a large party of +golfers, all the edibles, consisting of cold meats, game, +aspics, salads, and mince-pie, were placed on the side-table, +and the gentlemen served the ladies before taking their own +places at the table. The servants came into the room only +to remove the plates. This gave a very social and lively +character to the meal, which all enjoyed for its informality.</p> + +<p>Entertainments of this kind may often be practicable, as the +question of service sometimes debars one from entertaining +many guests at a time.</p></div> + + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="THE_FIVE_OCLOCK_TEA_33" id="THE_FIVE_OCLOCK_TEA_33"></a>THE FIVE O’CLOCK TEA</h3> + + +<div class="explanations"><p><span class="smcap">A cup</span> of tea at this time of the afternoon is usually +gratefully accepted, and one is disappointed if it is made so +badly that it is not drinkable. The young lady who presides at +the tea table at an afternoon reception has sometimes a +difficult task if the tea is not prepared with a bag (as +directed on page <a href="#The_tea-bag_550">550</a>), but for the unceremonious social cup of +tea with the friend who drops in at this hour it is easy to +have it just right. After the proper preparation of the tea +(as directed on page <a href="#TEA_549">549</a>), the attractiveness of the table and +the delicacy of the china are the next things to be desired. +Tea does not taste as well taken from a coarse, large, or +heavy cup. The taste and refinement of the hostess are easily +recognized in this very unceremonious, but very social, +function. The cloth may be as elaborate as one wishes, but it +must above all be spotless, unwrinkled and dainty. The cups +may all differ from one another, but each one should be small +and thin, and the steaming kettle, which lends cheerfulness to +the occasion, should be highly polished, whether it be silver, +brass, or copper. A dry biscuit or a thin piece of bread and +<a name="butter_33" id="butter_33"></a>butter is usually offered with the tea. Fresh unsalted butter +is preferable, but any of the fine butters may be used. The +butter is spread very evenly on the loaf; the bread sliced +very thin and doubled like a sandwich. It may be cut into any +shape desired, such as strips, diamonds, or triangles. It is +attractive stamped into circles with a biscuit-cutter of about +the size of a silver dollar.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span> Three kinds of bread may be +used—white, graham, and Boston brown bread, and all may be +served on the same plate. <a name="butter_34" id="butter_34"></a>This simple dish is carried into +the esthetics in some English houses, where the bread and +butter is described as tasting of roses, violets, clover, or +nasturtiums. The flavor is obtained by shutting the fresh +butter in a tight jar with the blossoms for several hours. +Butter very readily absorbs flavors and odors, indeed it is +the medium used for extracting perfumes in the manufacture of +those articles. The flavored butter is spread in the ordinary +way on the bread, which has been treated also to a bath of +flowers. Butter sandwiches must be exceedingly thin and +shapely, and have no suggestion of mussiness. They should be +laid in a folded napkin to keep them fresh. Any sweet wafers +may also be used, but as this is not a meal, nothing should be +offered which will take away the appetite for dinner, which +follows shortly afterward.</p></div> + + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="A_HOMILY_ON_COOKING_35" id="A_HOMILY_ON_COOKING_35"></a>A HOMILY ON COOKING</h3> + + +<div class="explanations"><p><span class="smcap">It</span> is a trite saying that a thing worth doing at all is worth +doing well, but, from the inefficiency of the large number of +domestics who hold the office of cook, and from the acceptance +of careless work by so many families, it would seem that the +truism is not regarded in reference to cooking. Since it is +upon the kitchen that the health and comfort of the family so +greatly depend, is it not a duty, and would it not be a +pleasure, for the mistress of every house to understand the +science of cooking as well as the arts which give other +attractions to the house? A knowledge of its fundamental +principles would give her a sense of independence and power, +which knowledge is proverbially said to do. If she were +familiar with the nature of the yeast plant, and the action of +heat as applied in boiling, broiling, and frying, if she could +make a sauce and clear a soup, her family would be relieved +from the affliction of sour bread, burned meats, and muddy +soup. An ordinary kitchen servant can do these simple things +well, if she is once told how, and this basis would be a guide +in other work, and a safeguard against many failures. There is +no such thing as luck in cooking. Laws govern the chemical +changes which take place, and can always be relied upon. Water +will boil at 212°, and cannot be made hotter by violent +boiling in an open vessel. Frying can be properly done only +when the fat is smoking hot. Broiling can be properly done +only over, or under, hot and bright coals. For baking,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span> the +oven must be of the right temperature. The same thing cooked +in the same way will always be the same, and failure comes +simply from neglect of the rules. It is as easy to have good +cooking as bad; the former requires only the elements of care +and intelligence. With very little trouble, dishes may be made +to please the sight as well as the taste. The difference +between the elegance and refinement of one table and the +vulgarity of another often lies merely in the manner of +dishing and serving. Again, the step from plain to fancy +cooking is very short. A simple and tasteful arrangement, +or combination, of materials prepared in the ordinary way +will make an ornamental dish. Minced chicken pressed into +a ring mold to give it shape, and the center filled with +a mushroom sauce, will make a more appetizing dish than if +placed carelessly together with no regard to symmetry. Potatoes +pressed into a fancy mold, a part of the center removed, and +the space filled with chopped seasoned meat, will give a +chartreuse, and no thought of hash suggested. A jelly with a +flower in the top, or of two colors, will make a decorative +piece for the table. Uniformity in size and shape of potatoes, +chops, pancakes, slices of bread or anything that is served on +the same dish, gives a pleasing sense of order and care, which +is as marked as the proper arrangement of the table furniture. +It is in little things only that fancy differs from plain +cooking, but as soon as a cook comprehends the value of the +appearance of dishes she is sure to think of their perfection +in every other way.</p> + +<p>There is a popular prejudice against fried foods, and a belief +that abstaining from them will cure us of our dyspepsia, but +if articles are properly fried they should contain no more +grease than the boiled one does of water. Smoking fat has such +a high<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span> degree of heat, that certain articles are better +cooked by frying than by any other method. Minced meat, rolled +into the form of croquettes and fried, assumes a different +character both in taste and rank from the minced meat heated +in other ways. If the croquettes are coated with egg and +crumbs and immersed in smoking hot fat, as the rule directs, +the egg is instantly hardened, and no fat can be absorbed +through it. That which covers the outside is evaporated by +draining and drying in a hot place. The napkin on which the +croquettes are served will not be stained if they are rightly +fried. Saratoga chips can be handled with a glove without +soiling it. We need not be a nation of dyspeptics from eating +pie when the French are not from eating puff-paste, or from +hot breads when the English are not from plum pudding and pork +pies. It is from the manner of preparing our foods that we +suffer. Cooking has not been one of the virtues of our new +country, as we have been satisfied to get our cooks from +France and Ireland, but if intelligent American housewives +will take interest and pleasure in this important department, +which is delegated to their care, some of the serious trials +of life will be overcome, and emancipation from many petty +cares and annoyances will follow.</p></div> + + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="COOKING_AS_A_PLEASURE_AND_AN_ACCOMPLISHMENT_38" id="COOKING_AS_A_PLEASURE_AND_AN_ACCOMPLISHMENT_38"></a>COOKING AS A PLEASURE AND AN ACCOMPLISHMENT</h3> + + +<div class="explanations"><p><span class="smcap">The</span> common sayings about waste in American kitchens, dyspeptic +results of American cooking, etc., reflect the opinion held by +other nations of our culinary art, and though the judgment may +be too severe, it has been pronounced, and should remind us of +our shortcomings.</p> + +<p>It seems, however, as though a new era were now dawning. +Cooking-schools are established in large cities, cooking +lectures are given everywhere and are well attended. The +nutritive values of different foods and the chemistry of +cooking are studied. This, and the recognition of the fact +that health proceeds largely from the diet, seem to indicate +that there has been an awakening of interest in the subject of +gastronomy. In this day of fads, it will soon be discovered +also that pleasures lie in this line of work. Fancy cooking +has an interest quite as engaging as other occupations of +diversion. Fine cooking utensils, gas-stoves, and modern +conveniences, make the well-appointed kitchen as attractive +as the laboratory or workshop. Trying a new dish has the +same interest as any other experiment. The construction of +ornamental pieces is as interesting as other fancy work. +Making puff-paste, ice-creams, fancy molding of desserts and +salads, boiling sugar, etc., are in reality simple processes, +and with very little practice found to be as easy to prepare +as dishes which from familiarity have come to be called plain +cooking. Skill and dexterity of hand may be enjoyed in boning, +trussing, and larding, and taste shown in decorating with +truffles and other articles, in molding with flowers and +fruits, in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span> icing cakes, in spinning sugar, and in making +bonbons. The pleasure of decorating the table and adorning the +dining-room will be found secondary to that of preparing +artistic dishes when that art has once been learned.</p> + +<p>The gas-stove obviates the objection, formerly existing, of +one’s being subjected to excessive heat while cooking. At a +cost of about $2.00 a stove can be bought which will stand +on a table anywhere, and answer all ordinary purposes of +boiling and frying. More expensive ones, fitted with ovens +and other appliances, answer the requirements of all kinds +of cooking.</p> + +<p>When the preparation of a new or a fancy dish comes to be +looked upon as a pastime instead of a task, there may be +discovered in America Savarins and Béchamels. We have already +had a Sam Ward, but to the women should belong the honor of +raising our standard of cooking, and though they need not +agree with the terrible sentiment expressed by Margaret +Fuller, that a woman to have influence must cook or scold, +still it must be conceded that the former accomplishment will +enable her to wield a potent scepter. Perhaps, however, the +strongest word to be said in favor of every mistress of +a house knowing how to cook is the usefulness of it. The +difficulty of getting trained cooks at reasonable wages, the +caprices of the class, whose consciences do not prevent their +leaving at the moment when their services are most needed, and +the many occasions that arise when a knowledge of cooking is +of the greatest comfort and service, make it difficult, for +those who know how to cook, to comprehend how any one can +keep house without this knowledge, or how, with the inferior +service generally rendered, the pleasures of hospitality +can be enjoyed, or the comfort of a well-ordered culinary +department experienced.</p></div> + + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="TO_TRAIN_A_GREEN_COOK_40" id="TO_TRAIN_A_GREEN_COOK_40"></a>TO TRAIN A GREEN COOK</h3> + + +<div class="explanations"><p><span class="smcap">If</span> one is obliged to accept the service of inexperienced +cooks, or of women who claim to be plain cooks, but in reality +know nothing of the right ways of preparing anything, it is +often necessary to do more or less teaching or supervising. +Often it would be found easier to begin at the beginning, and +teach an entirely green girl who has intelligence and a desire +to learn, than it is to correct careless habits or bad methods +already formed. A formula for teaching a green cook is given +below for the benefit of any who care to avail of it.</p> + +<p><i>First.</i> Impress the necessity of clean utensils, being +particular that every saucepan used is perfectly clean on +the outside as well as the inside.</p> + +<p><i>Second.</i> Have all the utensils of one kind kept together in +definite places, and insist that each one is returned to its +place as soon as it has served its use, thus establishing +system.</p> + +<p><i>Third.</i> When sugar, butter, spices, or any articles are +taken out for use, have the boxes returned to their places +as soon as the desired quantity is removed.</p> + +<p><i>Fourth.</i> Do not allow any accumulation of soiled utensils +waiting for a general cleaning-up. A great deal of time and +work can be saved, and an orderly kitchen maintained, by +washing things as you go along so far as possible at odd +moments, and also in not using an unnecessary number of +dishes.</p> + +<p><i>Fifth.</i> Explain about exact measurements. Insist upon the +use of the tin measuring-cup (see page <a href="#MEASURING_77">77</a>).</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span><i>Sixth.</i> Have a time-table giving time per pound for cooking +meats, fastened in a convenient place against the wall, for +easy reference.</p> + +<p><i>Seventh.</i> Have all meats weighed and wiped off with a wet +cloth before proceeding to cook them.</p> + +<p><i>Eighth.</i> At all times give attention to right management of +the fire; be especially careful not to have coal piled above +the grate, nor to let the top of range become red-hot. Shut +off drafts before the coal is burned out, and have the ovens +clean and at the right temperature.</p> + +<p><i>Ninth.</i> Have everything dished neatly, and garnished +simply.</p> + +<p><i>Tenth.</i> No matter how simple the dish, insist that it be +attractive in appearance, and that every dish placed on the +table show the care of the cook in its preparation; for +instance, have every piece of toast of the same size and +shape, evenly browned and carefully arranged on a hot plate.</p> + +<p>To instil strict care in every detail is a most important +point in forming a good cook.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe">DISHES RECOMMENDED FOR FIRST LESSONS.</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>To make beef stock for soups, page <a href="#BEEF_OR_BROWN_STOCK_88">88</a>.</li> + <li>To boil potatoes, page <a href="#BOILED_POTATOES_201">201</a>.</li> + <li>To boil rice, page <a href="#TO_BOIL_RICE_222">222</a>.</li> + <li>To make a white sauce, page <a href="#WHITE_SAUCE_277">277</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<p>With one half the sauce make cream potatoes, add a little +onion juice to the other half, and add to it meat minced very +fine, making a creamed mince. Serve it on moistened toast; or +make creamed chicken and serve a border of rice around it. +When making a roux, and a white sauce is understood, it is +easy to show the variations of it, such as to cook onion or +vegetables with the butter before the flour is added;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span> or to +brown the flour if a brown sauce is wanted; or to use stock +instead of milk, thus making a Béchamel sauce; or to add an +egg to white sauce, making a poulette sauce, etc.</p> + +<p>To poach eggs: Serve them on toast cut uniformly and +moistened. Place symmetrically on dish and garnish with +parsley; or, spread the toast with creamed mince, place a +poached egg on each piece, and put a spot of pepper on the +center of the yolk.</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>To make coffee, page <a href="#TO_MAKE_COFFEE_551">551</a>.</li> + <li>To broil a steak, page <a href="#TO_BROIL_A_BEEFSTEAK_156">156</a>.</li> + <li>To boil a leg of mutton, caper sauce, pages <a href="#BOILED_MUTTON_163">163</a> and <a href="#CAPER_SAUCE_164">164</a>.</li> + <li>To roast beef and baste frequently, roast potatoes in the +same pan, pages <a href="#TO_ROAST_BEEF_146">146</a> and <a href="#POTATOES_BAKED_WITH_MEAT_204">204</a>.</li> + <li>To draw and truss a chicken, pages <a href="#TO_CLEAN_AND_DRAW_POULTRY_180">180</a> and <a href="#TO_TRUSS_A_FOWL_183">183</a>.</li> + <li>To clear the beef stock for clear soup, page <a href="#Clarifying_86">86</a>.</li> + <li>To make common stock, page <a href="#Meat_Stock_87">87</a>.</li> + <li>To make potato soup, page <a name="corr6" id="corr6"></a><a href="#POTATO_SOUP_105">105</a>.</li> + <li>To clarify drippings, page <a href="#TO_CLARIFY_FAT_74">74</a>.</li> + <li>To try out all other fat, page <a href="#TO_TRY_OUT_SUET_AND_OTHER_FATS_74">74</a>.</li> + <li>To dry bread and roll it into crumbs, page <a href="#Bread_51">51</a>.</li> + <li>To make bread and bread biscuits, page <a href="#GENERAL_DIRECTIONS_340">340</a>.</li> + <li>To make rice pudding, page <a href="#RICE_PUDDINGS_433">433</a>.</li> + <li>To make bread pudding, page <a href="#BREAD_PUDDINGS_434">434</a>.</li> + <li>To make plain cornstarch pudding, page <a href="#CORN-STARCH_PUDDINGS_397">397</a>.</li> + <li>A compote to serve with cornstarch pudding, page <a href="#COMPOTES_535">535</a>.</li> + <li>Cottage pudding, sabayon sauce, pages <a href="#COTTAGE_PUDDING_435">435</a> and <a href="#SABAYON_No_1_446">446</a>.</li> + <li>Cup cake, page <a href="#PLAIN_CUP_CAKE_470">470</a>.</li> + <li>Cookies, page <a href="#PLAIN_COOKIES_481">481</a>.</li> + <li>Plain pie-crust, page <a href="#PLAIN_PASTRY_FOR_PIES_451">451</a>.</li> + <li>Baked apple-dumplings, hard sauce, pp. <a href="#BAKED_APPLE_DUMPLINGS_429">429</a> and <a href="#HARD_SAUCE_448">448</a>.</li> + <li>Some variations of cornstarch pudding, page <a href="#Page_398">398</a>.</li> + <li>Plain wine-jelly, page <a href="#WINE_JELLY_415">415</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<p>When a woman has learned to do these few simple things +perfectly, she will have no difficulty in follow<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span>ing any +ordinary receipt, and having a knowledge of the first +principles of cooking, can then advance to more elaborate +dishes.</p> + +<p>Frying should not be attempted until she can roast, broil, +and bake.</p> + +<p>Croquettes of various kinds can then be made; to mold them +uniformly requires a little practice—the care of the fat +and the right degree of heat are the essential things to +emphasize in frying.</p> + +<p>In one month a woman of ordinary intelligence, with the +desire to learn, should be able to make perfectly, and serve +attractively, enough simple dishes to supply the family +table with sufficient variety, without troubling the +mistress to plan and think for her.</p> + +<p>An insistence upon system and exactness will insure immunity +from failures.</p></div> + + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="ECONOMICAL_LIVING_44" id="ECONOMICAL_LIVING_44"></a>ECONOMICAL LIVING</h3> + + +<div class="explanations"><p><span class="smcap">A very</span> pleasant book called “$10.00 Enough” explains how a +family of two lived well on that sum per week, including house +rent and wages of one servant. Mrs. Rorer says $2.00 per head a +week is a liberal allowance. Articles are published giving +directions for living on ten cents a day; also of dinners for +six people costing twenty-five cents. In examining these +formulæ it is evident that in order to accomplish this very +small cost of living, one must first understand the comparative +values of foods, so as to select those which at low prices +furnish the necessary nourishment, and secondly, to be able to +cook them in such a way as to make them acceptable; in fact the +rule holds good, however high the scale of living, that the +proper cooking of food counts for more than the cost of it. The +cheap and the expensive articles can be equally spoiled in the +cooking; while the cheap ones, well cooked, are more esteemed +than the high-priced ones poorly prepared. The first thing +excluded from the list of cheap nutritive foods is white bread. +Refining the flour to the whiteness of the so-called best +qualities takes out most of its nutritive elements, while the +lower grades or brown flours retain the gluten, and make a +bread which is preferred when one becomes familiar with it. +Beans, peas, and corn-meal have an important place on the list +of accepted foods. They supply the wastes of the system and +afford a hearty meal. Meat, which is the most expensive food, +has come to be regarded here as a necessity, but in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span> the old +countries the classes who perform the hardest labor consider it +only as a luxury, and seldom use it oftener than once a week. +Often the cost of living is more in the waste than in the +actual consumption of food. Another needless and unwise expense +is buying more than is required, providing for three persons +enough for six; and still another extravagance is in buying +articles which are out of season. For instance, in the spring +veal is a very cheap meat; in the autumn it is the most +expensive one, but, at the right times, one may indulge in +sweetbreads, calf’s head, calf’s brains, and liver. In its +season game is frequently abundant and reasonably cheap. The +idea prevails that, in order to have variety, it is necessary +to buy whatever the market offers, whereas variety may be +attained by variation in the ways of cooking, in serving with +different sauces, and with different accompaniments, and in +arranging the menu so that one course is in pleasing contrast +to the preceding one, thus avoiding surfeit.</p> + +<p>Many pieces of meat of the best quality are sold at low +rates because not in shapes to be served as boiling or +roasting pieces. These serve well for entrées and made-up +dishes; other pieces, which are tough, but well flavored, +can by slow cooking be made as tender as the prime cuts, +such as a round of beef braised.</p> + +<p>On page <a href="#VERY_INEXPENSIVE_DISHES_249">249</a> will be found a number of menus and receipts for +very inexpensive dinners.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Mushrooms_45" id="Mushrooms_45"></a><b>Mushrooms.</b></span> Mr. Gibson, in an interesting article on “Mushrooms,” +published in “Harper’s Magazine” for August, 1894, calls +attention to the vast amount of wholesome and nutritious food +that lies at the door of every country dweller. City people +pay at least a dollar a pound for mushrooms, which are served +at the finest dinners, and are considered as among the best +articles for use in high-class cooking. Therefore, why<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span> should +they be scorned or overlooked by those who can have them for +the gathering? Neglect to use them seems equal in wastefulness +to the practice of some country butchers, who throw away +calves’ heads, brains, sweetbreads, fresh tongues, etc., +because the people have not learned their value. A French +family who moved into a western town reported that the cost of +living there was nominal, because the foods which they most +prized, not being recognized as belonging on the list of +comestibles, were given away by the butchers as food for dogs. +Mushrooms are very distinctive in feature, and by the aid of +descriptions given in books and colored charts, one can easily +learn the edible varieties which grow in his neighborhood. By +taking no risks in eating those not perfectly recognized, +there is no danger of being poisoned. It is not thought +difficult to learn varieties of the rose, nor to discriminate +between the poison and the innocuous ivy. The form, color, and +habitat of mushrooms make them equally easy to recognize. Care +should be taken, however, to avoid any mushroom which is old +or partly decayed, as its condition then is analogous to that +of putrid meat. In their season the edible fungi grow in great +profusion; they are nitrogenous, containing the same nutritive +elements as meat, and well serve as a substitute for it, +giving a pleasant change to the limited bill of frugal fare. +Mr. Gibson speaks of them as beefsteaks. They seem from +circumstances, therefore, to have a place in the dietary of +the poor as well as the rich. Receipts for cooking mushrooms +are given on page <a href="#MUSHROOMS_314">314</a>.</p> + +<p>It is sometimes thought to be an extravagance to serve a roast +to a small family, because so much meat is left over. When +there is no way known of presenting it again except as cold +meat or as hash, it may indeed be disagreeable to have the +same meat served four<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span> times. A good cook, however, served +turkey acceptably at four dinners to a family of three persons +in this way:</p> + + +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="margin-left: 0; width: 88%;" summary="First day's dinner"> +<tr> + <td colspan="3"><a name="menu_economical_living_47" id="menu_economical_living_47"></a><h4 class="recipe">FIRST DAY’S DINNER</h4></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>10 lbs. turkey at 16 cents per lb.</td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr">$1.60</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>1 quart sweet potatoes boiled</td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr">.10</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>2 quarts apples (of which she used three for baked +apple dumplings, sabayon sauce, page <a href="#SABAYON_No_1_446">446</a>)</td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr">.15</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>1 egg</td> + <td class="tdr">.03</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>1 lemon</td> + <td class="tdr">.02</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>½ cup sugar</td> + <td class="tdr">.01</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr">—</td> + <td class="tdr">.06</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td></td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr">—</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Cost of first day’s dinner</td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr">$1.91</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="3"><h4 class="recipe">SECOND DAY’S DINNER</h4></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>2 lbs. codfish boiled</td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr">.20</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="3"><h5 class="heading"><span class="smcap">HOLLANDAISE SAUCE</span> (page <a href="#HOLLANDAISE_281">281</a>).</h5></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>2 eggs</td> + <td class="tdr">.06</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>¼ lb. butter</td> + <td class="tdr">.08</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>½ lemon</td> + <td class="tdr">.01</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr">—</td> + <td class="tdr">.15</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>6 croquettes made of one cupful of turkey meat</td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr">.00</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="3"><h5 class="heading"><span class="smcap">SAUCE TO MIX THEM</span></h5></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>½ cup milk</td> + <td class="tdr">.01</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>½ tablespoonful butter</td> + <td class="tdr">.01</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>1 egg</td> + <td class="tdr">.03</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr">—</td> + <td class="tdr">.05</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>½ tablespoonful flour (see croquettes, page <a href="#TO_MOLD_CROQUETTES_293">293</a>)</td> + <td></td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>1 pint cranberries</td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr">.09</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Sweet potatoes left from day before, cut in strips and + browned (see page <a href="#BROWNED_SWEET_POTATOES_206">206</a>)</td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr">.00</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="3"><h5 class="heading"><span class="smcap">BROWN BETTY PUDDING</span></h5></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Apples from day before</td> + <td class="tdr">.00</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Molasses and crumbs</td> + <td class="tdr">.05</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr">—</td> + <td class="tdr">.05</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td></td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr">—</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Cost of second dinner</td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr">.54</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="3"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span><h4 class="recipe">THIRD DAY’S DINNER</h4></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Soup made from carcass of turkey</td> + <td class="tdr">.00</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="3"><h5 class="heading"><span class="smcap">CHICKEN SOUFFLÉ</span> (page <a href="#CHICKEN_SOUFFLE_190">190</a>).</h5></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>1 cup turkey meat</td> + <td class="tdr">.00</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="3"><h5 class="heading"><span class="smcap">SAUCE TO MIX IT</span></h5></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>1 tablespoonful butter</td> + <td class="tdr">.02</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>1 cup milk</td> + <td class="tdr">.04</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>3 eggs</td> + <td class="tdr">.09</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Other ingredients</td> + <td class="tdr">.02</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr">—</td> + <td class="tdr">.17</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="3"><h5 class="heading"><span class="smcap">BAKED MACARONI</span></h5></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>½ lb. macaroni</td> + <td class="tdr">.04</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Cheese</td> + <td class="tdr">.05</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr">—</td> + <td class="tdr">.09</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="3"><h5 class="heading"><span class="smcap">COTTAGE PUDDING</span></h5></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>1 egg</td> + <td class="tdr">.03</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>½ cup sugar</td> + <td class="tdr">.01</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>½ cup milk</td> + <td class="tdr">.02</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>1 tablespoonful butter</td> + <td class="tdr">.03</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Baking powder</td> + <td class="tdr">.01</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr">—</td> + <td class="tdr">.10</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="3"><h5 class="heading"><span class="smcap">CHOCOLATE SAUCE</span> (page <a href="#CHOCOLATE_SAUCE_447">447</a>).</h5></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>3 oz. chocolate</td> + <td class="tdr">.08</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>½ cup sugar</td> + <td class="tdr">.02</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr">—</td> + <td class="tdr">.10</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td></td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr">—</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Cost of third day’s dinner</td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr">.46</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="3"><h4 class="recipe">FOURTH DAY’S DINNER</h4></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>1 codfish steak, 1 <a name="corr7" id="corr7"></a>lb.</td> + <td class="tdr">.10</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>4 smelts for garnishing</td> + <td class="tdr">.10</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr">—</td> + <td class="tdr">.20</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="3"><h5 class="heading"><span class="smcap">CHARTREUSE OF CHICKEN</span> (page <a href="#CHICKEN_CHARTREUSE_190">190</a>).</h5></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>1 cup rice</td> + <td class="tdr">.04</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>White sauce</td> + <td class="tdr">.07</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>What is left of turkey including giblets</td> + <td class="tdr">.00</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Boiled potatoes</td> + <td class="tdr">.05</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Scalloped tomatoes</td> + <td class="tdr">.15</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Salad of water-cresses</td> + <td class="tdr">.05</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Bread pudding</td> + <td class="tdr">.10</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr">—</td> + <td class="tdr">.46</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td></td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr">—</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Cost of fourth day’s dinner</td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr">.66</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span></p></td> + <td> </td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>First day</td> + <td class="tdr">$1.91</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Second day</td> + <td class="tdr">.54</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Third day</td> + <td class="tdr">.46</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Fourth day</td> + <td class="tdr">.66</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Extras for bread, seasonings, etc.</td> + <td class="tdr">.30</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr">——</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Total</td> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr">$3.87</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Average per day</td> + <td class="tdr">96¾ cents.</td> + <td></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>The turkey in this case gave three cupfuls of chopped meat +after the dinner of the first day. Any kind of meat can be +made into the same dishes, and will be liked if the meat is +chopped very fine, is well seasoned, and made creamy by +using enough sauce.</p></div> + + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="WASTEFULNESS_50" id="WASTEFULNESS_50"></a>WASTEFULNESS</h3> + + +<div class="explanations"><p><span class="smcap">As</span> a rule the family life of America does not represent +opulence, yet it has become a familiar saying that a French +family could live on what an American family throws away. +Again, it is said that in American kitchens half the provisions +are spoiled and the other half wasted. There is no need +to-day of being open to such accusations. At small expense +a woman can have the benefit of lessons in cooking-schools, +and should not be accepted as a cook until she has some +knowledge of the duties, and is qualified to bear that name. +The gage of a woman’s rank in her profession can be definitely +determined by what she wastes or utilizes, and the high wages +paid a first-class cook are often saved by the intelligent +use she makes of all her materials. Many of her best entrées +are but a combination of odds and ends which another cook +would throw away. Her delicious sauce, which gives a very +ordinary dish that requisite something which makes it highly +esteemed, may be but the blending of many flavors obtained +from little scraps.</p> + +<p>The waste in foods need be so small as practically to have +no waste material; not a crumb of bread, a grain of sugar, a +bit of butter, a scrap of meat or fat, a piece of vegetable +or leaf of salad, but can be utilized with profit. The soup +pot is a receptacle for everything too small for other uses, +and from this source can be drawn seasonings which will give +richness and flavor to innumerable dishes, which are greatly +improved by using stock instead of milk or water in their +preparation.</p></div> + + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="HOW_TO_UTILIZE_WHAT_SOME_COOKS_THROW_AWAY_51" id="HOW_TO_UTILIZE_WHAT_SOME_COOKS_THROW_AWAY_51"></a>HOW TO UTILIZE WHAT SOME COOKS THROW AWAY</h3> + + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Bread_51" id="Bread_51"></a><b>Bread.</b></span> <span class="smcap">Trim</span> such pieces of cut bread as will do for toast into +uniform shape and serve at the next breakfast. Smaller +pieces cut into croûtons (page <a href="#CROUTONS_AND_CROUSTADES_81">81</a>) for garnishing or for +soup. Save unshapely pieces for bread pudding, Brown Betty, +or stuffings. Save every scrap of bread for crumbs, to use +for breading croquettes, chops, scallop dishes, etc. It is +well to have two kinds of crumbs, using the white ones for +the outside of fried articles, as they give a better color. +To prepare the crumbs, separate the crumb from the crusts of +bread and dry each of them slowly, on separate tins, on the +shelf of the range. When dry, roll, sift and place them in +glass preserve-jars until wanted.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Fat_51" id="Fat_51"></a><b>Fat.</b></span> Clarify all beef fat and drippings, the grease which rises +on soup stock, and fat from poultry, and keep in a clean jar +or tin pail for use in frying; it is preferable to lard (see +“frying,” pages <a href="#FRYING_72">72</a> and <a href="#Drippings_59">59</a>). Mutton, turkey, and smoked meat +fat has too strong a flavor to be used for frying, but save +it with other fat that may be unsuitable for frying, and +when six pounds are collected make it into hard soap (page +<a href="#TO_MAKE_WHITE_HARD_SOAP_259">259</a>).</p> + +<p><a name="bones_51" id="bones_51"></a>Use the marrow of beef bones on toast for a luncheon entrée +(page <a href="#MARROW-BONES_159">159</a>), or use it with bread to make balls for soup +(page <a href="#MARROW_BALLS_94">94</a>).</p> + +<p>Grill wings and legs of fowls that are left over (page <a href="#GRILLED_BONES_188">188</a>) +for luncheon, or stuff the legs as directed (page <a href="#STUFFED_CHICKEN_OR_TURKEY_LEGS_188">188</a>). If +the sinews are removed from the legs when the fowl is drawn, +as directed (page <a href="#TO_CLEAN_AND_DRAW_POULTRY_180">180</a>), the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span> meat of the leg will be as good +as that of the second joint.</p> + +<p>Use a ham bone for improving bean soup. Use the carcasses of +fowls and the bones from roasts for making soup.</p> + +<p>Try out chop bones and other meat taken from the plates for +soap fat.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Tough_Pieces_52" id="Tough_Pieces_52"></a><b>Tough Pieces.</b></span> Chop the tough ends of steak very fine, season, and form +them into balls or cakes, sauté or broil them, and serve for +breakfast or luncheon (see “Hamburg steaks,” page <a href="#HAMBURG_STEAKS_151">151</a>).</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Small_Pieces_52" id="Small_Pieces_52"></a><b>Small Pieces, Cold Meats.</b></span> Cut pieces of white meat into dice or strips, mix it with a +white sauce, turn it into a flat dish, make a border of +pointed croûtons, sprinkle over the top a little chopped +parsley, and garnish with hard-boiled egg; or mix the meat +with aspic jelly in a mold and serve cold with salad.</p> + +<p><a name="Cold_meats_52" id="Cold_meats_52"></a>Mix dark meats of any kind with a brown sauce, and garnish +with lettuce leaves, hard-boiled eggs, and croûtons. Any +kind of cold meat may be chopped and used in an omelet, or +combined with rice and tomatoes for a scallop. For cold +mutton see “Ragoût of Mutton” (page <a href="#RAGOUT_OF_COLD_BOILED_MUTTON_165">165</a>).</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Eggs_52" id="Eggs_52"></a><b>Eggs.</b></span> Save egg-shells to clear soup, jellies, or coffee. Boiled +eggs that are left return to the fire and boil them hard to +use for garnishing, to mix with salad, or to make golden +toast (page <a href="#GOLDEN_CREAM_TOAST_270">270</a>) for luncheon. Cold poached eggs can be +boiled hard and used in the same way. Cold fried or +scrambled eggs can be chopped and mixed with minced meat, +and will much improve it.</p> + +<p>When an egg is opened for the white alone, drop the yolk +carefully into a cup, cover the cup with a wet cloth, and +keep it in the ice-box until wanted. When whites are left +over make a small angel cake (page <a href="#WHITE_SPONGE_467">467</a>), angel ice cream +(page <a href="#WHITE_OR_ANGEL_ICE-CREAM_497">497</a>), kisses (page <a href="#MERINGUES_AND_KISSES_475">475</a>),<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span> or cover any dessert with +meringue, or serve a meringue sauce (page <a href="#MERINGUE_SAUCE_448">448</a>) with the next +dessert, or make a meat soufflé without yolks (page <a href="#CHICKEN_SOUFFLE_190">190</a>).</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="General_Odds_and_Ends_53" id="General_Odds_and_Ends_53"></a><b>General Odds and Ends.</b></span> Everything too small to utilize in other ways put in the +soup pot, and from this can be drawn sauces and seasoning +for minces, scallops, etc., that will often be better than +specially prepared stock.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Cereals_53" id="Cereals_53"></a><b>Cereals.</b></span> Oatmeal, hominy, cracked wheat, and other cereals which +are left over can be added next day to the fresh stock, for +they are improved by long boiling and do not injure the new +supply, or such as is left can be molded in large or in small +forms, and served cold with cream, or milk and sugar. In warm +weather cereals are nicer cold than hot. Cold hominy and mush, +cut into squares and fried, so that a crisp crust is formed +on both sides,—also hominy or farina, rolled into balls +and fried,—are good used in place of a vegetable or as a +breakfast dish.</p> + +<p>Any of the cereals make good pancakes, or a small amount +added to the ordinary pancake batter improves it.</p> + +<p>Cold rice can be added to soup, or made into croquettes, or +used in a scallop dish, or mixed with minced meat and egg +and fried like an omelet. Cold rice pudding can be cut into +rounded pieces with a spoon and served again on a flat dish; +this may be covered with whipped cream or flavored whipped +white of egg.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Vegetables_53" id="Vegetables_53"></a><b>Vegetables.</b></span> A small amount of vegetables left over may go into the soup, +or may be mixed with a ragoût. Peas, tomatoes, or beans can +be put in an omelet. A number of vegetables mixed together +can be used for a salad. Cauliflower broken into flowerets, +covered with white sauce, and sprinkled with grated cheese, +makes “cauliflower <i>au gratin</i>,” a dish which is much liked.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span>The coarse stalks and roots of celery make a good vegetable +dish when cut in pieces and boiled, or they make a good +cream-of-celery soup. The leaves are valuable in the soup +pot for flavor; also are useful for garnishing.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Sour_Milk_54" id="Sour_Milk_54"></a><b>Sour Milk.</b></span> Sour milk makes cottage cheese, or makes good biscuits.</p> + +<p>For uses of stale cakes see page <a href="#USES_FOR_STALE_CAKE_411">411</a>.</p> + +<p>For jellies left over see page <a href="#WHAT_TO_DO_WITH_JELLY_LEFT_OVER_418">418</a>.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Fruits_54" id="Fruits_54"></a><b>Fruits.</b></span> When fruits show signs of deterioration, stew them at once +instead of letting them decay. See <a href="#COMPOTES_535">compotes</a>. Stew apple +parings and cores to a pulp and strain; this will make a +jelly which, spread on apple tart, greatly improves it.</p> + +<p>Boil lemon and orange peels in sugar, and dry as directed, +page <a href="#CANDIED_ORANGE_OR_LEMON_PEEL_527">527</a>, for candied peels.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Cheese_54" id="Cheese_54"></a><b>Cheese.</b></span> Grate cheese which becomes dry and use for <i>gratin</i> dishes +or soups; or it can be served with crackers the same as +though in its original shape.</p></div> + + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="EMERGENCIES_55" id="EMERGENCIES_55"></a>EMERGENCIES</h3> + + +<div class="explanations"><p><span class="smcap">There</span> is to-day such a variety of well-preserved foods that +a store-closet provided with these articles may be almost +the equivalent of a full larder. With such a resource the +housekeeper can meet without embarrassment the emergencies +that may arise in any household, however well ordered. In +the country, where tradespeople are difficult to reach, it +will be especially useful at such times. The articles sealed +in glass jars seem the most wholesome, and are sometimes so +well preserved as to be a very good substitute for the fresh +ones. Salted meats and fish are distinctive foods, which are +occasionally very acceptable, and the dessicated foods are +beyond suspicion of unwholesomeness. A few suggestions are +offered of how to utilize some of the articles which can be +recommended. Many of the soups are excellent; chicken gumbo is +particularly good. Extract of beef can be quickly made into +soup, beef-tea, or aspic jelly (page <a href="#QUICK_ASPIC_322">322</a>). Canned salmon and +chicken, either of them, can be heated and covered with a +white sauce, or be used for salad, or the salmon may be +broiled and covered with a maître d’hôtel sauce (page <a href="#MAITRE_DHOTEL_SAUCE_286">286</a>).</p> + +<p>Potted meats spread on toast make excellent canapés for luncheon +(page <a href="#CANAPES_368">368</a>). Shrimps make a salad, or in a chafing-dish can be +prepared <i>à la Newburg</i> (page <a href="#DISHES_A_LA_NEWBURG_333">333</a>). Of the salted and smoked +meats are ham, bacon, dried tongue, chipped beef, codfish, +smoked salmon, and mackerel, all of which are much esteemed as +breakfast dishes, and may be offered at luncheon<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span> or supper. +Of the vegetables, string-beans and flageolets make good +salads. Asparagus makes a good extra course served alone. +Tomatoes, the cheapest of all, and perhaps the most useful, +will make soup, sauces, a scallop dish, or may be added to an +omelet, macaroni, or rice. Pilot bread, toasted bread in +slices, and rusks make delicious cream-toasts for luncheon +or supper. Noodles or macaroni boiled plain for a vegetable, +or mixed with any sauce, tomatoes, or cheese. Cheese is +useful for canapés (pages <a href="#CANAPES_368">368-371</a>), cheese soufflé (page +<a href="#CHEESE_SOUFFLE_370">370</a>), macaroni, etc. There are varieties of plain and fancy +cracker biscuits which can be used in the place of cake. +Plum-puddings wrapped in tin-foil will keep indefinitely. +The canned whole apples can be used for dumplings (page <a href="#BAKED_APPLE_DUMPLINGS_429">429</a>) +or pies. California apricots or cherries around a form of +plain boiled rice, hominy, or other cereal, make a dessert; +peaches make a shortcake (page <a href="#STRAWBERRY_CAKE_443">443</a>); jams make delicious tarts, +or, served alone with cracker biscuits, are a sufficient +dessert for luncheon. Plain boiled rice may be used as a +vegetable in place of potatoes; or, sweetened and mixed with +a few raisins, or served with stewed prunes, makes a dessert.</p> + +<p>There are prepared flours from which biscuits may be quickly +made; prepared buckwheat which makes good pancakes for supper +or for breakfast. A few cans of condensed milk should be in +the store-room for use in case of real necessity only; it +answers very well for puddings, sweet dishes, or chocolate.</p> + +<p>Outside the store-room supplies, eggs furnish a variety of +dishes quickly prepared. Eggs <i>à l’aurore</i>, or <i>Bourguignonne</i>, +omelets with peas, tomatoes, mushrooms, minced meat, etc., are +for luncheon, and cheese omelets, sweet omelets, and soufflés +for dinner dishes.</p> + +<p>It is well to have fondant (page <a href="#FONDANT_513">513</a>) in close jars<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span> ready +for icing cakes or for bonbons, candied fruits for sweets or +for ornamenting desserts, ginger and brandied peaches to +serve with ice-cream. Lady-fingers are easily made, and will +keep in a cracker-box indefinitely. If these are at hand, a +Charlotte russe is quickly made, and is one of the simplest +and most acceptable light desserts.</p> + +<p>There are olives, gherkins, and chow-chow for <i>hors +d'œuvres</i>. There are catsups and condiments in variety to +make barbecues (page <a href="#BARBECUE_OF_FISH_331">331</a>), or to make cold meats acceptable.</p> + +<p>The growing plant, the globe of gold fish, the bird-cage +partly concealed with branches, may be utilized for table +decoration. As circumstances alter cases, there are many +expedients to which a housekeeper may resort in supplying +deficiencies which might not be in rule, were the occasion a +formal one. The chafing-dish on the luncheon or supper-table, +or a dish more appropriate to a different meal, would not only +be excused, but perhaps give to an embarrassing occasion the +pleasant feature of informality. +</p></div> + + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="THINGS_TO_REMEMBER_58" id="THINGS_TO_REMEMBER_58"></a>THINGS TO REMEMBER</h3> + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Eggs_58" id="Eggs_58"></a><b>Eggs.</b></span> <span class="smcap">A dash</span> of salt added to the whites of eggs makes them whip +better.</p> + +<p>Not a speck of the yolk must get into the whites which are +to be whipped.</p> + +<p>Fold the whipped whites into any mixture rather than stir +them in, as the latter method breaks the air cells.</p> + +<p>Break eggs one at a time into a saucer, so any can be +rejected if necessary and the mixture not be spoiled.</p> + +<p>Add a tablespoonful of water to an egg used for crumbing in +order to remove the stringiness.</p> + +<p>Use a double boiler for milk.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Milk_58" id="Milk_58"></a><b>Milk.</b></span> Milk is scalded when the water in the lower pan boils.</p> + +<p>A pinch of bi-carbonate of soda mixed with tomato before +milk or cream is added prevents the milk from curdling.</p> + +<p>With sour milk, or molasses, use soda instead of baking +powder.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Butter_58" id="Butter_58"></a><b>Butter.</b></span> Milk and butter should be kept in closely covered vessels, +as they readily absorb flavor and odor from other articles.</p> + +<p>Butter added slowly in small bits to creamy mixtures, or +sauces, prevents a greasy line forming.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Crumbs_58" id="Crumbs_58"></a><b>Crumbs.</b></span> Crumbs grated directly from the loaf give a more delicate +color than dried crumbs to fried articles.</p> + +<p>Dried crumbs absorb more moisture, and are better for watery +dishes.</p> + +<p>Crumbs spread over the tops of dishes should be mixed evenly +with melted butter over the fire; this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span> is a better method +than having lumps of butter dotted over the crumbs after +they are spread.</p> + +<p>When the sauce bubbles through the crumbs on top of a +scallop dish, the cooking is completed.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Meats_59" id="Meats_59"></a><b>Meats.</b></span> Meat should not be washed. It can be cleaned by rubbing with +a wet cloth, or by scraping with a knife.</p> + +<p>Drippings are better than water for basting meats.</p> + +<p>Meats should not be pierced while cooking.</p> + +<p>Soak salt fish with the skin side up over night. Change the +water several times.</p> + +<p>To skim sauces, draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, +throw in a teaspoonful of cold water, and the grease will +rise so that it can be easily taken off.</p> + +<p>A few drops of onion juice improve made-over meat dishes; +not enough need be used to give a pronounced onion flavor.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Drippings_59" id="Drippings_59"></a><b>Drippings.</b></span> The skimming from soups, drippings from any beef roasts, +and trimmings from any beef, serve the same uses as lard, +cottolene, or butter.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Onion_Juice_59" id="Onion_Juice_59"></a><b>Onion Juice.</b></span> To extract onion juice, press the raw surface of an onion +against a grater, move it slightly, and the juice will run +off the point of the grater.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Chopping_Suet_59" id="Chopping_Suet_59"></a><b>Chopping Suet.</b></span> Chop suet in a cool place, and sprinkle it with flour to +prevent its oiling and sticking together. Remove the membrane +before chopping it.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Chopping_or_Pounding_Almonds_59" id="Chopping_or_Pounding_Almonds_59"></a><b>Chopping or Pounding Almonds.</b></span> Add a few drops of rose-water to almonds to prevent their +oiling when chopped or pounded.</p> + +<p>To loosen grated peel, or other articles, from the grater, +strike the grater sharply on the table.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Mixing_59" id="Mixing_59"></a><b>Mixing.</b></span> When mixing a liquid with a solid material, add but little +liquid at a time and stir constantly to prevent lumping.</p> + +<p>When adding cornstarch, arrowroot, or any starchy material +to hot liquid, first mix it with enough cold water, or milk, +to make it fluid; pour it in slowly and stir constantly +until it becomes clear.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Gelatine_60" id="Gelatine_60"></a><b>Gelatine.</b></span> Soak gelatine in a cool place for an hour in cold water or +milk. It will then quickly dissolve in hot liquid and have no +odor. If jellied dishes do not stiffen, add more gelatine; +boiling down will not effect the purpose.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Molds_60" id="Molds_60"></a><b>Molds.</b></span> Grease molds evenly with butter or oil, using a brush. Lumps +of butter on the side of molds leave an uneven surface on +the article cooked or molded in them. Molds for jellies are +not greased.</p> + +<p>Invert a dish over a mold before turning it, so that the +form will not break; also, place it in exactly the right +spot before lifting off the mold.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Strainers_60" id="Strainers_60"></a><b>Strainers.</b></span> It is desirable to pass all liquid mixtures through a +strainer to make them perfectly smooth.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="To_keep_Dishes_Warm_60" id="To_keep_Dishes_Warm_60"></a><b>To keep Dishes Warm.</b></span> To keep dishes warm until time of serving, place the +saucepan in a pan of hot water.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Flavoring_60" id="Flavoring_60"></a><b>Flavoring.</b></span> Any flavoring is added after the mixture is cooked, +excepting for baked dishes. Wine increases the taste of +salt, therefore, where wine is used for flavoring, very +little salt should be put in until after the wine is used, +when more can be added if necessary.</p> + +<p>Dishes which are to be frozen need an extra amount of +sweetening.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Raisins_60" id="Raisins_60"></a><b>Raisins.</b></span> Flour raisins before adding them to a mixture in order to +prevent their settling to the bottom.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Baking_60" id="Baking_60"></a><b>Baking.</b></span> Never slam the oven door, or jar any rising material while +it is baking.</p> + +<p>Anything being cooked for the second time needs a hot oven.</p></div> + + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="CARE_OF_UTENSILS_61" id="CARE_OF_UTENSILS_61"></a>CARE OF UTENSILS</h3> + + +<div class="explanations"><p><span class="smcap">A very</span> essential thing in doing nice cooking is to have clean +utensils. The pans of a careless cook are encrusted outside +and frequently inside with dry, hard grease, which ordinary +washing will not remove; the broilers are black with burned +grease, and the ovens are in the same state. If one sees this +condition of things, or finds a woman putting a saucepan on +the hot coals, one needs no further commentary on her work. +The saying “You can judge a workman by his tools” is very true +in this case. No good cook will abuse her utensils, or expect +to get well-flavored sauces from saucepans which are not +immaculately clean. <a name="clean_utensils_61" id="clean_utensils_61"></a>To keep utensils clean, it is necessary to +wash them thoroughly, after they are used, with soda to cut +the grease, and with sapolio to scour off any blackened spots. +Sand or ashes may be used on the outside of iron pots. The +outside as well as the inside of every utensil should be +clean, and never be allowed to approach that state where +only scraping will clean them. When utensils do reach that +unwholesome condition, the coat of burned and blackened grease +can be removed only by boiling in a strong solution of sal +soda for an hour or more, using a large boiler which will hold +enough water to entirely cover them. After the grease is +softened, it can be scraped off, the articles then scoured +with sand, ashes, or sapolio.<a name="FNanchor_61-1_1" id="FNanchor_61-1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_61-1_1" class="fnanchor">61-*</a> This is a good day’s work +for a charwoman, which will change the aspect of things in the +kitchen,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span> and may awaken a pride for cleanliness where it has +not before existed.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Tins_Sieves_Woodenware" id="Tins_Sieves_Woodenware"></a><b>Tins, Sieves, Woodenware.</b></span> Tins should be well dried before being put away, or they will +rust. Sieves should not be washed with soap, but cleaned with +a brush, using soda if necessary. Wooden ware should not be +put near the fire to dry, or it will warp or crack.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Arrangement_of_Utensils_in_Closet_62" id="Arrangement_of_Utensils_in_Closet_62"></a><b>Arrangement of Utensils in Closet.</b></span> An orderly arrangement of utensils in the kitchen closet will +greatly facilitate quick work. Everything of the same class +should be in the same group: Saucepans and gridirons hung on +hooks, measuring-cups, iron spoons, and strainers also hung in +a place very convenient to hand. Molds and baking tins should +be placed where they will not get bent or jammed. Practise +strictly the system of a place for everything and everything +in its place.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Supply-Closet_62" id="Supply-Closet_62"></a><b>Supply-Closet.</b></span> Order in the supply-closet is also necessary. Have a number +of tin boxes, and of glass preserve-jars of different sizes, to +hold everything large and small in the way of food supplies. +Stand them in rows, each one plainly labeled, that no time may +be lost in searching for the article needed. The cost of these +receptacles is small, while their use is not only a great +convenience, but also a protection from dust and insects. +A closet so kept is also easily supervised. In every large +and well-ordered kitchen perfect order and system prevail. +Were it not so, a hopeless confusion would soon ensue. In +small households the same nicety can be the rule, and if the +mistress makes a weekly inspection, order will soon become a +tradition of the household, and be maintained without demur. +<span class="sidenote"><a name="Refrigerator_62" id="Refrigerator_62"></a><b>Refrigerator.</b></span> The refrigerator must be kept scrupulously clean and dry to +insure wholesome food, and its waste-pipe kept freely open. +This should not be connected directly with the general waste-pipe +of the house. Cases of diphtheria have been directly traced +to this cause. There should be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span> a free use of soda in washing +out the refrigerator to keep it free from taint. As butter +and milk readily absorb the flavors of other articles they +should be kept by themselves, or with only the eggs, in the +small compartment. Lemons or other fruit are particularly to +be excluded. Fish may be laid directly on ice, the skin side +down; but beefsteaks or other uncooked meats lose flavor if +placed in direct contact with ice.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Coal_and_Range_63" id="Coal_and_Range_63"></a><b>Coal and Range.</b></span> Proper care of the range and intelligent use of the coal are +also essential factors of success in cooking. If the drafts +are left open too long, the greatest heat is often lost +before cooking begins. If they are closed the moment the +coal is kindled, the heat will remain steady for a long +time. When the coals look whitish, they are becoming +exhausted and beginning to fall to ashes, and this condition +arrives quickly when rapid combustion takes place from open +draughts. Piling the coal above the level of the fire-box is +another error generally practised by ignorant cooks. The +heat does not increase from the depth of coal, but from the +breadth of surface. Piling up the coal, in a mound which +nearly touches the top of the range, results in heating the +iron red-hot, warping the lids out of shape, destroying the +saucepans, and very likely burning the food. No articles +cooked on top of the range require excessive heat, and are +usually spoiled by too rapid cooking.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Ovens_63" id="Ovens_63"></a><b>Ovens.</b></span> When the ovens do not bake on the bottom or on the top, it +means a layer of ashes shuts off the heat. The ashes are +easily removed from the top, but to lift the plate from the +bottom of the oven and clean it out requires a cold range, +so this is often neglected or not understood, while the cook +wonders why the bread will not bake on the bottom, and why +the cake is spoiled.</p></div> + + +<div class="footnotes"> +<p><a name="Footnote_61-1_1" id="Footnote_61-1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_61-1_1"><span class="label">61-*</span></a> It can also be easily removed by soaking in a solution +of Babbitt’s lye—one tablespoonful to several gallons of water.—M. +R.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span></p> + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="divisionhead"><a name="PART_II" id="PART_II"></a>PART II<br /> +<br /> +RECEIPTS</h2> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span></p> + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="Chapter_I" id="Chapter_I"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter I</span><br /> +<br /> +METHODS OF COOKING EXPLAINED</h2> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="BOILING_67" id="BOILING_67"></a>BOILING</h4> + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Simmering.</b></span> There is an erroneous impression that articles cook faster +when the water is boiling violently, but this is not the case; +the ebullition is caused by the escaping steam, which is lost +heat, and the water at this time is at 212° (except in high +elevations), however fast or slow it may be boiling. If, +however, a little sugar or salt is added to the water it +increases its density, and the heat rises to 224° before the +steam escapes. The heat can be raised also by covering the +pot and confining as much of the steam as possible. Where +violently boiling water is recommended, as for rice and green +peas, the object is not greater heat, but to keep the grains +and peas separated by the turbulence of the water. There is +waste of fuel in unnecessarily fast boiling, and economy can +be easily practised here, especially where gas is used, as the +boiling point, once reached, can be maintained with but little +heat. Where the juices and color are to be retained, the +articles are put into already boiling salted water. The +albumen on the surface is then at once coagulated and the +juices shut in. Where the object is to extract the juices, as +for soups, they must be cut into pieces so as to expose more +surface, and put into cold water, and the heat of the water +gradually raised to the sim<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span>mering point only. The slow, long +cooking obtained in simmering water best destroys the fiber of +meat, and tough pieces cooked in this way are made tender. To +render tough pieces tender, the meat is first put into boiling +water in order to fix the albumen on the surface, the heat +then reduced, and the cooking done at the simmering point, +which is 185°. Hence, water at different stages of heat is +used, according to the object in view, and the result is as +definite as that of the different degrees of heat in an +oven, so this point should not be considered as of little +importance.</p> + +<p>The flavor of meats and vegetables is volatile, and much of +it can be carried off by escaping steam, as is demonstrated +by the odors which sometimes pervade the house. To prevent +the latter, and also to make the article tender and retain +all its flavor, the pot should be covered and the water kept +at the simmering point only.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Vegetables.</b></span> An exception to this rule is made in the cases of cabbage +and cauliflower. These strong-flavored vegetables will be +much less objectionable when cooked in rapidly boiling water +in open vessels (see page <a href="#BOILED_CABBAGE_212">212</a>). Green vegetables should be +boiled in open vessels, as high heat destroys their color. +<span class="sidenote"><b>Meat.</b></span> All meats should be well tied and skewered, to keep them in +good shape while boiling, and, when possible, be placed with +the bone side up, so if any scum settles it will not spoil +the appearance of the dish. <span class="sidenote"><b>Fish.</b></span> For fish a little vinegar should +be put into the water, as it hardens the meat and helps to +prevent its falling apart (see page <a href="#TO_BOIL_FISH_113">113</a>).</p> + +<p>Salt water is used where the object is to keep the flavors in, +fresh water where it is to draw them out as in soup, where the +salt is not added until the cooking is completed. The rule of +not piercing meat, thus letting out its juices, applies to +boiling as well as to other methods of cooking. Fifteen +minutes to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span> pound is the rule for mutton or tender meat, a +much longer or indefinite time for tough meat.</p> + +<p>Ham is done when the skin peels off easily.</p> + +<p>The scum should be taken off the pot when boiling meat.</p> + +<p>Milk boils at 196° and easily burns, therefore it is safer to +use a double boiler for anything containing milk. When using a +double boiler, the liquid in the inner pan is scalded when the +water in the outside vessel boils.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="BAKING_69" id="BAKING_69"></a>BAKING</h4> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Asbestos paper.</b></span> The baking of many articles is a more important matter than +the mixing. There are no definite tests for ovens, therefore +one has to learn by experience and careful watching the +capabilities or faults of the ovens used. A common trouble is +from not having them thoroughly cleaned of the ashes which +settle under the ovens and prevent the heat reaching the +bottom part. It is usual to have them hotter on the fire side. +In this case it is necessary to turn frequently the articles +being baked, or, where this cannot be done, to interpose a +screen to protect them from burning. Asbestos paper, which is +now sold at very low cost at house-furnishing stores, is a +convenient thing to place against the side of the oven, or on +the shelf of the oven if the excessive heat is on top. A tin, +or a piece of brown paper, will, however, ordinarily serve the +purpose. Directions for baking bread and cake are given at the +heads of those chapters.</p> + +<p>To lower the heat of an oven, if closing the damper is not +sufficient, open the lid of the range over the oven a little +way. Sometimes a pan of cold water put on the shelf of the +oven will effect the purpose. When baking meats, the oven +should be very hot at first, and after the meat is seared +the heat should be lowered, so the cooking will be done +slowly.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="section"><a name="ROASTING_70" id="ROASTING_70"></a>ROASTING</h4> + +<p>Roasting is done before the fire, and should not be confused +with baking, which is done in the oven. Roasted meats have a +distinctly better flavor than baked ones. The latter are +likely to taste of smoke unless the oven is frequently opened +for basting, as few of them are sufficiently ventilated to +free them of smoke and steam. Baking is the method generally +employed in small households, but where the grate of the range +is sufficiently large, and the front can be exposed, it will +be found no more trouble to roast than to bake the meats, and +the improvement will well repay the trouble of changing a +habit. Tin ovens (Dutch ovens) are made for this use, with a +clockwork to turn the spit, so the only care is to baste, +which has to be done in either case, and to keep the fire +bright, which is done by adding a few coals at a time if +necessary.</p> + +<p>The meat should at first be placed near the coals to sear +the outside, and then be drawn back where it will cook at +lower heat.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="BROILING_70" id="BROILING_70"></a>BROILING</h4> + +<p>Meat cooked by broiling is exposed to a greater heat than +in any other manner of cooking, and to prevent its burning, +requires constant watching. Meats for broiling are cut thin, +and much surface is exposed, therefore they must be at once +exposed to intense heat to sear the surface and retain the +juices. Frequent turning not only prevents burning, but +gives slower cooking and also prevents the grease dripping +into the fire, making a smoke which destroys the flavor of +the meat. The rule for broiling is to have bright coals +without flame, drafts open to carry off smoke, and meat +turned as often as one counts ten<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span> (see broiling beefsteak, +page <a href="#TO_BROIL_A_BEEFSTEAK_156">156</a>). In this way the result will be satisfactory, the +meat will be puffed and elastic from the confined steam of the +juices, will have a seared crust, and the rest evenly cooked +through and of the same color. When the puffed appearance +of broiled meats begins to disappear it means the moisture +is evaporating through the crust, which will leave it hard +and dry.</p> + +<p>Chops wrapped tight in oiled paper before being broiled are +especially good (see page <a href="#CHOPS_IN_PAPER_CASES_166">166</a>). The paper will not burn if +turned as directed above.</p> + +<p>Although broiling with a double wire-broiler over or under +bright coals is the approved way, it can be accomplished in +a hot pan when coals are not accessible. In this instance a +frying-pan is heated very hot, then rubbed with suet to +prevent the meat from sticking, and the meat is turned +frequently as in the other method. This manner of broiling +is recommended only as an expedient, as hot iron does not +give the same result as hot coals.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="BRAISING_71" id="BRAISING_71"></a>BRAISING</h4> + +<p>Meat cooked by braising is shut in a closely-covered pot with +a few slices of salt pork (laid under the meat to prevent its +sticking to the pot), a mixture of vegetables, cut into dice, +a little soup stock or water, and a bouquet of herbs, and +cooked slowly in the confined steam. This method of cooking +tough or dry meats makes them tender and of good flavor. +Braised dishes are much esteemed.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="FRICASSEEING_71" id="FRICASSEEING_71"></a>FRICASSEEING</h4> + +<p>Meat cooked in this way is first sautéd to keep in its +juices, then stewed until tender and served in a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span> white or +brown gravy, made from the liquor in the pot in which the +meat is stewed. Toasted bread and sometimes dumplings are +served with it. In the latter case it is called a pot-pie.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="SAUTEING_72" id="SAUTEING_72"></a>SAUTÉING</h4> + +<p>A little fat is put in a shallow pan; when this is hot, the +articles to be cooked are laid in and browned on both sides. +This manner of cooking is by many miscalled frying, and is +largely responsible for the disrepute of frying, as sautéd +articles are likely to be greasy and indigestible.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="FRYING_72" id="FRYING_72"></a>FRYING</h4> + +<p>Frying is cooking by immersion in very hot fat. The success of +frying depends upon the fat being sufficiently hot, and enough +fat being used to completely cover the articles cooked in it. +A kettle for frying should be kept for that purpose alone, and +started with enough fat to fill it two thirds full. Olive-oil, +lard, cottolene, drippings, or any mixture of them, serve the +purpose. When properly used but little fat is consumed, and +the pot can be easily replenished with the right quantity for +its next use. Each time, after using the fat, a slice of raw +potato should be dropped in to clarify it; it should then be +strained through a cloth and returned to the pot, be covered +when cold, and set away until again wanted. This fat can be +used for potatoes, and anything which is coated with egg and +crumbs. If fish without this coating are fried in it, it will +then be unsuitable for other purposes. A pot of fat will +with care last for months, but should be clarified as often +as necessary (see <a href="#TO_CLARIFY_FAT_74">below</a>). <span class="sidenote"><b>Heating the fat.</b></span> When the fat is to be used, the +frying-kettle should be placed on the range an hour before<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span> +the time it is needed. It will then become gradually hot, and +at the right moment can be quickly raised to the smoking heat +needed for frying. It takes some time for fat to reach this +temperature; and if this preparatory measure is not taken, a +cook, when hurried, is likely to use it before the right +heat is attained, or to place it on the open fire, which is +attended with great danger. Many persons are seriously burned +from this imprudence. <span class="sidenote"><b>To extinguish fire from grease.</b></span> When fat boils over and takes fire, the +best extinguisher is ashes. If the cook’s clothes take fire, +the best thing to do is to wrap the skirts together and roll +on the floor until assistance comes. With ordinary care there +need be no accidents. Dropping grease on the range or clothes +can be avoided by holding a tin plate under the frying-basket +when removing it from the kettle. When the articles to be +fried are prepared, the wire basket should be dipped into the +fat to grease it, the articles laid in, a few at a time, +without touching one another, the basket hung on an iron or +wooden spoon, and slowly lowered into the fat. Too many +articles must not be put in at the same time, or the heat of +the fat will be too much reduced. <span class="sidenote"><b>Spattering.</b></span> Spattering is caused by +water contained in the articles being turned to steam and +throwing out the fat; hence, one reason for making them very +dry and of lowering them gradually into the fat. When fat is +sufficiently hot it at once sears the outside of everything +placed in it, and forms a crust through which the grease +cannot penetrate and be absorbed by the food. Egg and crumbs +are used for the purpose of thus encrusting the outside of +made dishes, like croquettes. <span class="sidenote"><b>Color of fried articles.</b></span> The mistake should not be made +of leaving articles too long in the fat; a lemon color, which +is the one desired, is quickly attained. When lifted from the +fat, the basket should be held for a few minutes, or until +through dripping, over the ket<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span>tle, which is the hottest place +to be found, the articles then placed on a brown paper without +touching one another, and set in the open oven, or on the hot +shelf, until perfectly dry. If so treated the grease will +evaporate, and the articles become so free from it as not to +leave a mark on the napkin on which they are served. Articles +properly prepared and fried in this manner can be no more +unwholesome than meat which is basted with drippings. The fat +should be given time to again rise to the smoking heat before +a second basketful of articles is immersed. When frying +articles which take a little time to cook, the pot should be +drawn to a cooler part of the range, after the first few +minutes. The coating will then be formed, and the cooking can +proceed more slowly, and the articles will not brown too much +before they are cooked. Croquettes, being made of cooked meat, +need to remain in the fat only long enough to color and become +heated.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 418px;"> +<a name="illus-076-f-1" id="illus-076-f-1"></a><a href="images/illus-076-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-076-f-1.jpg" width="418" height="204" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">FRYING KETTLE AND BASKET.</span> + +<ul class="illus"> + <li>1. Frying Kettle.</li> + <li>2. Wire Basket and Iron Spoon for lifting the Frying Basket. (See +page <a href="#FRYING_72">72</a>.)</li> +</ul> +</div> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="TO_CLARIFY_FAT_74" id="TO_CLARIFY_FAT_74"></a>TO CLARIFY FAT</h4> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Bubbling fat.</b></span> When fat becomes discolored and unfit for use, stir into it +when melted one half teaspoonful of baking soda and a quart of +water. Let it boil for a little time, take off the scum that +rises, and set the pot aside until cold. Remove the cake of +grease, scrape off all the impurities, put it again on the +fire, where it will melt but will not be agitated, and let it +remain undisturbed until all the water has evaporated and the +remaining impurities have settled to the bottom; then pour off +the clear grease. When fat bubbles it means there is water in +it, not that it is hot.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="TO_TRY_OUT_SUET_AND_OTHER_FATS_74" id="TO_TRY_OUT_SUET_AND_OTHER_FATS_74"></a>TO TRY OUT SUET AND OTHER FATS</h4> + +<p>Cut the fat into pieces, place it in a shallow pan over +moderate heat until the fat is melted, then strain<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span> it through +a cloth. There will be no odor from the fat if not placed +where it becomes too hot. All kinds of fats are good for +frying except mutton fat, turkey fat, and fat from smoked +meats; these can be used for making soap, as directed on page +<a href="#TO_MAKE_WHITE_HARD_SOAP_259">259</a>.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="TO_PREPARE_ARTICLES_FOR_FRYING_75" id="TO_PREPARE_ARTICLES_FOR_FRYING_75"></a>TO PREPARE ARTICLES FOR FRYING BY COVERING THEM WITH EGG AND +CRUMBS</h4> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="The_Crumbs_75" id="The_Crumbs_75"></a><b>The Crumbs.</b></span> All scraps of bread should be saved for crumbs, as directed on +page <a href="#Bread_51">51</a>, the crusts being separated from the white part, then +dried, rolled, and sifted. The brown crumbs are good for the +first coating, the white ones for the outside, as they give +better color. Where a very delicate color is wanted, bread +grated from a stale loaf or rubbed through a coarse sieve +gives better results; the fresh crumbs need not be very fine. +Cracker crumbs give a smooth surface and are better for +oysters than bread crumbs, but for most things bread crumbs +are preferable. For meats a little salt and pepper, and for +sweet articles a little sugar, should be mixed with the +crumbs. Crumbs left on the board should be dried, sifted, and +kept to be used again.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="The_Egg_75" id="The_Egg_75"></a><b>The Egg.</b></span> The whole egg is generally used. The white alone will serve, +but not the yolk alone, as it is the albumen which is needed. +The albumen quickly coagulates when put into the hot fat, and +forms a coating through which the grease will not penetrate. +To one egg is added one tablespoonful of water, so as to make +it thin enough to run and remove the stringiness of the egg; +these are beaten lightly together, but should not be foamy, as +bubbles break and leave holes for the grease to enter. Where +delicate color is wanted, it is better to use the white of the +egg only and fresh crumbs. Turn the crumbs on to a board; roll +the articles first in the crumbs to dry them well, then<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span> place +them in the beaten egg one at a time, and with a spoon pour +the egg over and moisten them thoroughly; return them to the +board, and completely cover them with crumbs. <span class="sidenote"><a name="Molding_76" id="Molding_76"></a><b>Molding.</b></span> Soft, creamy +mixtures like croquettes require delicate handling, and are +easier to manage if first made into a ball,—molding them into +shape being left until the second crumbing, at which time they +can be rolled into cylindrical form and the ends flattened by +dropping them lightly on the board. They will keep their shape +better if, after being prepared, they are allowed to stand an +hour or more before being fried. (See croquettes, page <a href="#TO_MOLD_CROQUETTES_293">293</a>.)</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="LARDING_76" id="LARDING_76"></a>LARDING</h4> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Cutting lardoons.</b></span> Larding is simply drawing small pieces of salt pork through +the surface of meat. It is easily done, and so much improves +lean, dry pieces of meat as to well repay the trouble. The +pork for larding is best cut lengthwise with the rind, and +that nearest the rind is the firmest. Cut it into slices, one +quarter inch thick, and then into strips one quarter inch wide +and two inches long. The lardoons can be made firmer by +placing them on ice, but ordinarily this is not necessary. The +larding needle holding a lardoon is pressed through the +surface of the meat, taking a stitch about a quarter inch deep +and an inch long, then drawn through, leaving the lardoon +projecting on both sides. The stitches should be taken at +regular intervals, so as to appear ornamental, and when all +the lardoons are in they should be cut even. For birds or +small pieces, the lardoons would of course be cut of a size to +suit the needle used.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 420px;"> +<a name="illus-076-f-2" id="illus-076-f-2"></a><a href="images/illus-076-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-076-f-2.jpg" width="420" height="199" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">1. PIECE OF MEAT LARDED. 2. LARDING NEEDLES. +3. LARDOONS.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="DAUBING_76" id="DAUBING_76"></a>DAUBING</h4> + +<p>Daubing is cutting through the entire thickness of the meat +in several places and inserting lardoons of salt pork. The +cut is made with a thin, sharp knife.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="section"><a name="BONING_77" id="BONING_77"></a>BONING</h4> + +<p>Cutting the meat free from the bones, leaving the meat whole, +is called boning. This is easily done with a sharp-pointed +knife, and requires but little practice to accomplish +successfully. <span class="sidenote"><b>Fowls.</b></span> Directions for boning fowls are given on page +<a href="#TO_BONE_A_FOWL_181">181</a>. Boned fowls are usually made into galantine, but they are +also good when stuffed and pressed into natural shape, or to +imitate a duck or a rabbit and served hot. <span class="sidenote"><b>Meats.</b></span> The butcher will +remove the bones from joints of meat when requested. Boned +meats make an agreeable change, and in the case of shoulder +pieces make them suitable to serve as roasts (see pages <a href="#SHOULDER_OF_MUTTON_STUFFED_163">163</a> +and <a href="#STUFFED_SHOULDER_OF_VEAL_168">168</a>). Chops with the bones removed, the tail ends wrapped +around the meat and secured with wooden toothpicks or with +small skewers until cooked, resemble in form filets mignons.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="MEASURING_77" id="MEASURING_77"></a>MEASURING</h4> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Measuring-cup.</b></span> Exact measurements are an important factor in the success of +cooking, therefore a definite understanding of what a cupful +or a spoonful means is requisite. A cupful means one half +pint. A tin cup holding this amount is as necessary as a quart +measure in every kitchen. They can be bought for ten cents +apiece in any house-furnishing store. A spoonful of butter, +lard, sugar, or flour means a rounding spoonful, as much +rising above the spoon as is held in the bowl. A spoonful of +salt or spices means only as much as the bowl holds, the top +being smoothed off with a knife.<a name="FNanchor_77-1_2" id="FNanchor_77-1_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_77-1_2" class="fnanchor">77-*</a> One half spoonful means +the half of the contents of the bowl divided lengthwise. A +heaping spoonful means as much as the spoon can be made to +hold. A table giving comparative weights and measures is given +on page <a href="#WEIGHTS_AND_MEASURES_387">387</a>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 418px;"> +<a name="illus-076-f-3" id="illus-076-f-3"></a><a href="images/illus-076-f-3-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-076-f-3.jpg" width="418" height="207" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">MEASURING CUP AND SPOONS.</span> + +<ul class="illus"> + <li>1. Tin measuring cup holding one half-pint.</li> + <li>2. Spoonful of salt, pepper or spices.</li> + <li>3. One half spoonful.</li> + <li>4. Spoonful of flour, sugar, or butter.</li> + <li>5. Heaping spoonful. (See page <a href="#MEASURING_77">77</a>.)</li> +</ul> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="section"><a name="STIRRING_AND_BEATING_78" id="STIRRING_AND_BEATING_78"></a>STIRRING AND BEATING</h4> + +<p>These two methods should not be confused. The object of +stirring is to mix the materials. The spoon is held on the +bottom of the dish, and the materials rubbed and pressed +together as much as possible. It is not essential to always +stir one way. The object of beating is to get air into the +mixture to make it lighter, which is done by continuously +lifting it up in the same way; therefore a beaten mixture +must not be stirred, or the imprisoned bubbles of air will +be broken and the result of the beating lost.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="HOW_TO_STONE_OLIVES_78" id="HOW_TO_STONE_OLIVES_78"></a>HOW TO STONE OLIVES</h4> + +<p>With a sharp-pointed knife cut through the olive to the +stone on the blossom end and pare off the meat, turning the +olive around three times, keeping the knife at not too sharp +an angle close to the stone. The meat will then be in one +curled piece, which can be pressed into its original shape +again.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="HOW_TO_CUT_BACON_78" id="HOW_TO_CUT_BACON_78"></a>HOW TO CUT BACON</h4> + +<p>Place the bacon on a board with the rind down. With a very +sharp knife slice the bacon very thin down to the rind, but +do not try to cut through it. When enough slices are cut, +run the knife under, keeping it close to the rind, and the +slices will be free.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 420px;"> +<a name="illus-082-f-1" id="illus-082-f-1" href="images/illus-082-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-082-f-1.jpg" width="420" height="164" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">CUTTING BACON. (SEE PAGE <a href="#BACON_178">78</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="HOW_TO_EXTRACT_ONION_JUICE_78" id="HOW_TO_EXTRACT_ONION_JUICE_78"></a>HOW TO EXTRACT ONION JUICE</h4> + +<p>Cut an onion across and press it against a coarse grater, +moving it a very little; the juice will then run off the +point of the grater.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="CARAMEL_78" id="CARAMEL_78"></a>CARAMEL</h4> + +<p>Caramel is used to color soup, gravies, etc., and serves +also as a flavoring for desserts. It must be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span> used with care +for coloring, as it also sweetens. The flavor of caramel +depends upon the degree to which the sugar is cooked before +the water is added. It grows stronger as it becomes browner.</p> + +<p>Put one half cupful of granulated sugar and two <a name="corr8" id="corr8"></a>tablespoonfuls +of water into a granite-ware saucepan, stir until the sugar +has melted, then let it cook without stirring until it has +turned dark brown, but not black, then add one half cupful of +hot water, and let it simmer until the sugar is dissolved and +cooked to a thin syrup.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="TO_MAKE_ROUX_79" id="TO_MAKE_ROUX_79"></a>TO MAKE ROUX</h4> + +<p>Put one tablespoonful of butter into a saucepan. When it +bubbles add one tablespoonful of flour and let them cook +together for a few minutes, stirring all the time. If it is +to be used as thickening for a white sauce or soup, do not +let it color. If for brown soup or sauce, let it become +brown. This amount is sufficient to thicken one cupful of +milk or of stock, to make a sauce, or to thicken one pint or +more of soup.</p> + +<p>Roux can be prepared and kept in jars ready for use. The +proportion of equal quantities of butter and flour is usually +taken, and is the rule, but in some cases double the flour is +used. The flour cooked in this way gives a better result than +when rubbed with the butter and stirred into the liquid. +Cooking flour in hot fat seems to more surely burst the +starch-grains, which removes the raw taste it is likely to +have if cooked only in the boiling liquid.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="TO_MARINATE_79" id="TO_MARINATE_79"></a>TO MARINATE</h4> + +<p>Make a mixture in the proportion of three tablespoonfuls of +vinegar to two of oil, one teaspoonful of salt, one quarter +teaspoonful of pepper, one bay-leaf, one teaspoonful onion +juice, and a sprig of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span> parsley. Put it on a flat dish and +lay any cooked or raw meat in the marinade for an hour or +more before using, turning the pieces often. Enough flavor +is absorbed to much improve meats or fish to be used for +salads, fish to be fried or boiled, and other cases given in +receipts. The onion juice may be omitted if desired.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="SALPICON_80" id="SALPICON_80"></a>SALPICON</h4> + +<p>A salpicon is a mixture of cooked meats, which are cut into +dice and combined with a sauce, mushrooms, and truffles. +Chicken, sweetbreads, and tongue mixed with mushrooms and +truffles and moistened with a Béchamel sauce, is a combination +often used. Salpicon is used in timbales, patties, and +vol-au-vent. A mixture of fruits seasoned with sugar and wine +is also called a salpicon.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="SEASONING_AND_FLAVORING_80" id="SEASONING_AND_FLAVORING_80"></a>SEASONING AND FLAVORING.</h4> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Condiments.</b></span> The savoriness of a dish can often be much enhanced by +adding a few drops of Worcestershire sauce, of mushroom or +tomato catsup, of kitchen bouquet, by a few celery seeds, a +bay-leaf, or a sprig of some dried herb. A little tarragon +vinegar or a few capers will often much improve a salad.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Almonds.</b></span>A half dozen chopped almonds will greatly improve a bread +pudding or any other simple dessert. +<span class="sidenote"><b><br />Orange peel.</b></span>A few shreds of candied +orange peel will give a delicious flavor to puddings, sauces, +and cake.</p> + +<p>A flavor of almonds, orange- or rose-water, sherry, or +maraschino, will be an agreeable change from vanilla, and +much more wholesome.</p> + +<p>Some cooks feel they are called upon to do fancy cooking if +expected to use a bay-leaf or an almond; others feel a receipt +is extravagant or impracticable if it calls for anything in +the line of flavors beyond salt<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span> and pepper, lemon juice, +vanilla, or raisins; but there is no more extravagance in +using different condiments than in using always the same, +or those which from habit have established themselves in +the favor of every housekeeper. None of the condiments are +expensive, and so little is used at a time that one bottleful +lasts a long time. All the flavoring extracts are the same +price, and the expense of a few almonds is only nominal, +therefore it is a pity not to have a variety of such articles +in the dresser, and give variety to dishes by at least the +very simple means of changing flavors. A cottage pudding +with a little shredded orange peel, nuts, or cocoanut in it, +or with a chocolate, wine, or méringue sauce, will be an +agreeable change from the plain pudding with hard sauce. The +same may be said of a corn-starch or a rice pudding, of a +custard, and of many other things.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="CROUTONS_AND_CROUSTADES_81" id="CROUTONS_AND_CROUSTADES_81"></a>CROÛTONS AND CROUSTADES</h4> + +<p>Croûtons or crusts are used in pea, bean, and all cream +soups, for garnishing all kinds of stewed dishes, and for +any dish with which toast would be acceptable. When cut +large and filled they are called croustades.</p> + +<p>To make croûtons or croustades, cut bread into the desired +shape and sauté the pieces in hot butter, or dip them in +melted butter and toast them carefully in the oven, turning +frequently, so they will be evenly colored; or they may be +fried in smoking-hot fat. They should be crisp and dry and +the color of amber.</p> + +<p>They are made of various sizes and shapes to suit the uses +they are to serve. For soups the bread is cut into cubes one +quarter inch square or into fancy shapes; for garnishing meat +dishes they are cut into diamonds, squares, triangles, and +circles; for sippets to eat with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span> boiled eggs, into strips one +half inch wide and four inches long; for poached eggs, into +circles four inches in diameter.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>For Soups.</b></span> To make croûtons for soup, cut bread into slices one quarter +of an inch thick, take off the crust, then cut it into strips +one quarter of an inch wide and then across into even squares; +or with vegetable cutters cut the sliced bread into fancy +shapes.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Triangles.</b></span> For triangles, cut a slice of bread one half inch thick, +then into strips one and a quarter inches wide, then into +pieces two or three inches long, then diagonally across.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Pyramidal Pieces.</b></span> For pyramidal pieces, cut the bread into one inch squares +and cut diagonally across the cube. When used for garnishing +they may be moistened a little on one side with white of +egg, and will then stick to the dish sufficiently to hold in +place. A circle of pyramidal pieces makes a good border to +inclose minced meat, creamed fish, etc.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Circles_82" id="Circles_82"></a><b>Circles.</b></span> Circles for poached eggs are cut with a biscuit cutter three +inches in diameter, and may be toasted in the ordinary way +if preferred.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Boxes_82" id="Boxes_82"></a><b>Boxes.</b></span> For boxes cut bread from which the crust has been removed +into pieces two and a half inches thick, two and a half +inches wide and three and a half inches long, then with a +pointed knife cut a line around the inside one half of an +inch from the edge and carefully remove the crumb, leaving a +box with sides and bottom one half inch in thickness. The +boxes may be cut round if preferred, using two sizes of +biscuit cutters. They are browned the same as other +croûtons, and are used for creamed spinach, creamed chicken, +creamed fish, etc.</p> + +<p>A five cent square loaf of bread cuts to good advantage.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 420px;"> +<a name="illus-082-f-2" id="illus-082-f-2" href="images/illus-082-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-082-f-2.jpg" width="420" height="177" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">CROÛTONS AND CROUSTADES. (SEE PAGE <a href="#CROUTONS_AND_CROUSTADES_81">81</a>.)</span> + +<ul class="illus"> + <li>1. Sippets to use with boiled eggs.</li> + <li>2. Pyramidal Pieces for Borders.</li> + <li>3, 4, 6. Bread Boxes.</li> + <li>5. Triangles for Garnishing.</li> + <li>7. Croustade for Poached Egg, Creamed Meats, etc.</li> + <li>8. Croûtons for Soups.</li> +</ul> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="section"><a name="CHARTREUSE_83" id="CHARTREUSE_83"></a>CHARTREUSE</h4> + +<p>Chartreuse is a liqueur made by the monks of the French +monastery of Grande Chartreuse; but a class of dishes has +also been given this name, where two or more foods are used +one of which conceals the others. The story goes that on +fast days the monks were thus able to indulge in forbidden +food, and savory viands were hidden under cabbage or other +severely plain articles. Chartreuses are made by lining a +mold with rice, a vegetable, or a forcemeat, and filling the +center with a different food. Two vegetables are sometimes +so combined, but more often game or meats are inclosed in +rice and served with a good sauce. (See illustration facing +page <a href="#illus-192-f-2">190</a>.)</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="En_Bellevue_83" id="En_Bellevue_83"></a><b>En Bellevue.</b></span> Fruits are made into chartreuses by inclosing them in +blanc-mange or puddings. When meats are molded in aspic +jelly they are called “En Bellevue” as in this case they are +not concealed.</p></div> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 424px;"> +<a name="illus-082-f-3" id="illus-082-f-3" href="images/illus-082-f-3-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-082-f-3.jpg" width="424" height="203" alt="See caption" title="" /></a> +<br /> +<span class="caption">SOME USEFUL UTENSILS.</span> + +<ul class="illus"> + <li>1, 2. Small Pointed Knives for Vegetables, Boning, etc.</li> + <li>3. Fluted Knife for cutting potato straws, or cutting vegetables into + fancy shapes.</li> + <li>4. Tuller Knife. Useful for pastry and all work done on a board.</li> + <li>5. Broad-bladed Knife or Spatula.</li> + <li>6. Saw.</li> + <li>7. Bread or Cake Knife.</li> + <li>8, 9. Small Wooden Spoons.</li> +</ul> +</div> + + + +<div class="footnotes"> +<p><a name="Footnote_77-1_2" id="Footnote_77-1_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_77-1_2"><span class="label">77-*</span></a> Cooking schools have recently adopted the rule of using +even spoonfuls for every spoon measurement. This ensures great +exactness.—M. R.</p> +</div> + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="Chapter_II" id="Chapter_II"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter II</span><br /> +<br /> +SOUPS</h2> + + +<div class="explanations"><p>As nothing is easier than making good soups, they should be +the first lesson in cooking.</p> + +<p>They are one of the most nutritious and inexpensive foods +presented, and have a very wide range, extending from the +clear, transparent soups, through many degrees of consistency, +color and material, to the heavy varieties which contain +enough nourishment for a meal in themselves. The pot-au-feu as +managed in the families of the French peasantry furnishes +their chief source of diet. The pot on the fire receives every +bit of nutritious material of every kind; by slow cooking the +juices and flavors are extracted, and a savory combination is +made which is both pleasant to the taste and satisfying to the +hunger.</p> + +<p>The stock-pot should be on every range, and its contents +ever ready to be drawn upon, not only for soup, but for +sauces, and for flavoring the numerous dishes which can be +enriched and improved by stock.<a name="FNanchor_84-1_3" id="FNanchor_84-1_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_84-1_3" class="fnanchor">84-*</a></p> + +<p>The many kinds of soups are variations of the few kinds of +stock.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Brown_Stock_84" id="Brown_Stock_84"></a><b>Brown Stock, see page <a href="#BEEF_OR_BROWN_STOCK_88">88</a>.</b></span> The brown stock is made from beef, or from beef, veal, and +fowl combined, and mixed vegetables.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="White_Stock_84" id="White_Stock_84"></a><b>White Stock, see page <a href="#WHITE_STOCK_99">99</a>.</b></span> White stock is made of veal and chicken together, or from +veal alone, seasoned with onion, celery, white pepper, and +salt, nothing being used which will give color.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Chicken Consommé or Broth, see page <a href="#CONSOMME_98">98</a>.</b></span> Chicken stock is made from the fowl alone, and seasoned with +celery, white pepper, and salt.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b><br /><a name="Cream_Soups_85" id="Cream_Soups_85"></a>Cream Soups, see page <a href="#CREAM_SOUPS_105">105</a>.</b></span> Cream soups are made without stock, the basis be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span>ing +vegetables boiled and mashed to a purée by being pressed +through a colander or sieve, then mixed with cream or milk +and seasoned to taste.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Soup_Meats_85" id="Soup_Meats_85"></a><b>Soup Meats.</b></span> The meats used for soups are: the lower or tough part of the +round, the shin, and the neck pieces of beef, the knuckle of +veal, and fowls. Mutton is not used except for mutton broth. +A very little ham is sometimes used; game also gives good +flavor.</p> + +<p>Bones contain gelatine and cause the stock to jelly when +cold.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Soup_Vegetables_85" id="Soup_Vegetables_85"></a><b>Soup Vegetables.</b></span> The soup vegetables are onions, carrots, turnips, and +celery. They are cut into small pieces and are sometimes +fried before being added to the soup pot.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="The_Bouquet_85" id="The_Bouquet_85"></a><b>The Bouquet.</b></span> Parsley wrapped around peppercorns, cloves, bay-leaves and +other herbs, excepting sage, and tied, makes what is called +a bouquet. In this shape the herbs are more easily removed.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Proportions_85" id="Proportions_85"></a><b>Proportions.</b></span> The proportions are one quart of cold water to a pound of +meat, and to four quarts of water one each of the vegetables +of medium size, named above, two sticks of celery, and a +bouquet containing one root of parsley with leaves, one +bay-leaf, twelve peppercorns, six cloves,—one sprig of +thyme, and sweet marjoram if desired.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="The_order_of_reparing_Soups_85" id="The_order_of_reparing_Soups_85"></a><b>The order of preparing Soups.</b></span> In making good soup the first essential is a perfectly clean +pot. I would emphasize the word clean. First have the pot +thoroughly washed with soda and water to remove any grease, +then scoured with sapolio to take off any bits of burned or +hardened matter.</p> + +<p>The meat should be wiped clean with a wet cloth and carefully +examined to see if there are any tainted spots, then cut into +pieces about one and a half inches square (except in the case +where a round of beef is used, which is to be removed when +tender and served as bouilli). The meat and bones must be put +into cold water in order to extract the juices, and never be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span> +allowed to boil. Slow cooking best effects the object desired +(see article on boiling, page <a href="#BOILING_67">67</a>). After the meat has stood +fifteen minutes in cold water, put it on the fire, cover, +and let it come slowly to the simmering-point, then place +on the back of range to simmer for six hours or more. An +hour before the cooking is completed, add the vegetables, +cut into small pieces. When the soup is to be served clear, +it is well to remove the scum as it rises, but this is not +essential, for much of it comes off when the soup is strained, +and perfectly clear soup requires clarifying in any case. The +French receipts all say remove the scum, but as it is a +nutrient part of the meat, unless clearness is desired, it +seems better to let it remain during the period of cooking.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Removing_the_Grease_86" id="Removing_the_Grease_86"></a><b>Removing the Grease.</b></span> When the soup has simmered five or six hours, it should be +strained into an earthen bowl and left to cool uncovered. +Under no circumstances let it stand in the pot after it is +cooked. The grease will rise to the top and form a cake +which can be easily removed when cold. Any little particles +which may stick to the jelly may be wiped off with a cloth +wet in hot water. Where a quantity of stock is made at one +time, it is well to strain it into two or even three bowls; +the grease forms an air-tight cover and will help to keep it +from souring. Stock should be made the day before it is to +be used in order to let the grease rise and the floating +particles settle, but where it is needed at once, the grease +that cannot be skimmed off with a spoon can be absorbed by +passing tissue paper over it carefully.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Clarifying_86" id="Clarifying_86"></a><b>Clarifying.</b></span> Soup can be made perfectly clear by taking the jellied stock +from which every particle of grease and sediment has been +removed, and stirring into it, while cold, the slightly-beaten +white and crushed shell of one egg to each quart of stock. It +must be stirred constantly until the soup is hot enough to +coagulate<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span> the albumen, by which time it has thoroughly mixed +with and imprisoned the fine particles which cloud the liquid. +Let it boil violently for five minutes, then let it stand five +minutes longer on the side of the range to settle. Strain +through a fine cloth laid on a <a name="corr9" id="corr9"></a>sieve. Let it drain through +without pressing. In some cases a small bit of lemon rind used +with the egg in clearing gives a pleasant flavor to the soup. +After clearing it will ordinarily need to be heated again +before serving. In high-class cooking, soups are cleared +with chopped raw meat or chicken, which adds to, instead of +detracting from the richness of the soup. The albumen of egg +does not materially affect the quality of the soup, and is +recommended for general practice.<a name="FNanchor_87-1_4" id="FNanchor_87-1_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_87-1_4" class="fnanchor">87-*</a></p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Coloring_87" id="Coloring_87"></a><b>Coloring.</b></span> If a deeper color is wanted, it may be obtained by adding +a very little caramel (see page <a href="#CARAMEL_78">78</a>) or a few drops of a +preparation called “Kitchen Bouquet.” Artificial coloring, +however, is not so good as that obtained by browning the +vegetables and part of the meat before adding them to the soup +pot. (See brown stock, page <a href="#BEEF_OR_BROWN_STOCK_88">88</a>.)</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Names.</b></span> The meat soups are called broths, bouillon, or consommé, +according to their richness.</p> + +<p>The purées are thick soups made with or without stock, the +basis being mashed vegetables or meat pounded to a paste.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Meat_Stock_87" id="Meat_Stock_87"></a><b>Meat Stock.</b></span> Stock made of meat alone will keep better than where +vegetables are used. In warm weather it is well to have it +so prepared.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="COMMON_STOCK" id="COMMON_STOCK"></a>COMMON STOCK (POT-AU-FEU)</h4> + +<p>For this stock pieces of fresh or cooked meat are used, also +all odds and ends, chicken bones, gravies,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span> cooked or raw +vegetables, etc. Water in which fish or vegetables (excepting +cabbage or potatoes) have been boiled may or may not be used. +They are put together cold and are simmered for five or six +hours, then strained through a colander into an earthen bowl +and left to cool uncovered. Clear soup should not be attempted +with this stock, but it is good to combine with vegetables for +vegetable soup, or with other mixtures like rice, bits of +meat, chicken, gumbo, etc., for soup and to use for sauces and +seasoning.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="BEEF_OR_BROWN_STOCK_88" id="BEEF_OR_BROWN_STOCK_88"></a>BEEF OR BROWN STOCK</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>8 lbs. of shin of beef.</li> + <li>8 quarts of cold water.</li> + <li>1 medium-sized carrot.</li> + <li>1 medium-sized turnip.</li> + <li>1 parsley root and leaves.</li> + <li>1 onion.</li> + <li>1 stick of celery.</li> + <li>12 peppercorns.</li> + <li>6 cloves.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of salt.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Rub with a wet cloth the outside of the shin of beef, which +has been well broken by the butcher. Take the meat from the +bones and cut it into small pieces. Put aside a half pound +of the meat. Place the rest of the meat and the bones in a +perfectly clean pot with the cold water, and let it stand +fifteen to twenty minutes, or until the water is red; then +place them on the fire and let them come slowly to the +simmering point. Meanwhile, place in a sauté-pan some of the +marrow from the bones, or a tablespoonful of drippings. When +the fat is hot put in the half pound of reserved meat and +cook it until it is well browned. When the water in the pot +has begun to simmer, put in the browned meat and rinse the +sauté-pan with a few spoonfuls of water so none of the value +of the browned meat will be lost. This will give good color +and also flavor to the soup. Place the pot where the water +will simmer only, and leave it to cook for six hours, or +until the meat is cooked to shreds and its nutriment fully +extracted.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span> Add the vegetables, which have been well washed, +scraped, and cut into pieces, one hour before the cooking is +completed, and add the salt just before removing the stock +from the fire.</p> + +<p>If a clear soup is not desired, the care to keep it below +the boiling point is not essential. (See note, page <a href="#FNanchor_87-1_4">87</a>.)</p> + +<p>When the stock is done strain it through a close cloth or a +fine sieve into an earthen bowl, and let it cool without +covering.</p> + +<p>When ready to serve, remove the grease, clear it if desired +for transparent soup, add more pepper and salt to taste.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="Macaroni_soup_89" id="Macaroni_soup_89"></a>FOR MACARONI, <a name="Noodle_soup_89" id="Noodle_soup_89"></a>NOODLE, <a name="Vermicelli_soup_89" id="Vermicelli_soup_89"></a>VERMICELLI, VEGETABLE OR PRINTANIÈRE, +JULIENNE, TAPIOCA, AND CROÛTE-AU-POT SOUPS,</h4> + +<p>Take as much of the beef stock as will be needed, allowing +one half pint for each person, remove all the grease, heat +it, and season to taste. Just before serving add any of the +above articles, which must have been boiled separately. The +soup will then have the name of the ingredient used.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Julienne_89" id="Julienne_89"></a><b>Julienne.</b></span> Julienne does not differ from the vegetable soup except in +the form given the vegetables. For julienne, the outside or +deep yellow of the carrot, turnip, and celery are cut, with +a knife which comes for the purpose, into thin, thread-like +pieces about two inches long. The shredded vegetables must +be boiled before being added to the soup, and care used to +prevent their breaking or becoming too soft to hold their +form, or they may be fried in butter until tender. Green +peas, asparagus tips, and flowerets of cauliflower may also +be added. (See illustration facing page <a href="#illus-092-f-1">92</a>.)</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Printaniere_89" id="Printaniere_89"></a><b>Printanière.</b></span> Any vegetables may be used for vegetable soup, but judgment +should be shown in the combination. They may be made ornamental +by being cut into fancy<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span> shapes with cutters, or into balls +with a small potato scoop, or they may be cut into dice.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 421px;"> +<a name="illus-092-f-1" id="illus-092-f-1" href="images/illus-092-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-092-f-1.jpg" width="421" height="190" alt="See caption" title="" /></a> +<br /> +<span class="caption">PRINTANIÈRE AND JULIENNE SOUP VEGETABLES. (SEE PAGE <a href="#Printaniere_89">89</a>.)</span> + +<ul class="illus"> + <li>1, 2, 3. Cutters used for cutting vegetables for Printanière Soup.</li> + <li>4. Vegetables prepared for Printanière Soup.</li> + <li>5. Knife for cutting vegetables into Julienne.</li> + <li>6. Julienne.</li> +</ul> +</div> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Tapioca_90" id="Tapioca_90"></a><b>Tapioca.</b></span> Pearl tapioca boiled to clearness makes a very pretty +thickening to clear soup.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Croute_au_Pot_90" id="Croute_au_Pot_90"></a><b>Croûte au Pot.</b></span> Small pieces of toast or thin shavings of stale bread are added +to the tureen just before serving to make the <i>croûte-au-pot</i>. +The soup should be served before the bread dissolves or gets +very soft.</p> + +<p>For julienne, tapioca, and <i>croûte-au-pot</i>, the soup should +be perfectly clear and a deep amber color.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Garnishes_for_Soups_90" id="Garnishes_for_Soups_90"></a><b>Garnishes for Soups.</b></span> Other garnishes which may be added to soups are: Force-meat +balls (see page <a href="#FORCE-MEAT_BALLS_92">92</a>); yolks of hard-boiled eggs; egg balls +(see page <a href="#EGG_BALLS_92">92</a>); royal custard (see page <a href="#ROYALE_92">92</a>); fried croûtons +(see page <a href="#CROUTONS_AND_CROUSTADES_81">81</a>); noodles (see page <a href="#NOODLES_93">93</a>); dumplings (see page +<a href="#DUMPLINGS_WITH_BAKING_POWDER_170">170</a>); thin cross-cuts of celery; thin slices of lemon, one +for each plate; grated Parmesan cheese (passed); macaroni +cut into pieces one eighth of an inch thick, making rings; +sweet potato balls (see page <a href="#SWEET_POTATO_BALLS_94">94</a>); marrow balls (see page +<a href="#MARROW_BALLS_94">94</a>); green pea timbale (see page <a href="#GREEN_PEA_TIMBALE_94">94</a>); harlequin slices (see +page <a href="#HARLEQUIN_SLICES_94">94</a>); with consommé, a poached egg for each portion.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="THICKENING_FOR_SOUPS_90" id="THICKENING_FOR_SOUPS_90"></a>THICKENING FOR SOUPS</h4> + +<p>Roux (see page <a href="#TO_MAKE_ROUX_79">79</a>) makes the best thickening for soups which +are not clear, using brown or white roux according to the +color of the soup. Thin the roux with a little soup, so it +will be smooth before adding it to the soup kettle. Roux added +to pea, bean, and potato soups prevents their separating.</p> + +<p>A thickening of eggs is made as follows: Beat two or three +yolks and dilute them with a half a cupful of cream or milk +or cold soup. Stir in a few spoonfuls of the hot soup to +warm it. Remove the soup from the fire and stir in slowly +the egg mixture, return it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span> to the fire to cook the egg, but +do not let it boil, or it may curdle.</p> + +<p>Clear soups are sometimes thickened by using one teaspoonful +of arrowroot to a quart of soup. Mix the arrowroot with a +little of the cold soup, turn it into the hot soup, and cook +until it becomes clear. A clear soup so thickened may be +flavored with sherry.</p></div> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span></p> + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="GARNISHES_FOR_SOUPS_92" id="GARNISHES_FOR_SOUPS_92"></a>GARNISHES FOR SOUPS</h3> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ROYALE_92" id="ROYALE_92"></a>ROYALE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">A CUSTARD TO SERVE WITH CONSOMMÉ</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>2 yolks.</li> + <li>1 entire egg.</li> + <li>⅓ teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>Dash of cayenne.</li> + <li>½ cupful of beef stock.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Beat the eggs well, but not to a froth. Add one third of a teaspoonful +of salt and one half cupful of clear beef stock. Pour the mixture into a +small pan or flat dish, so it will be about one half inch deep. Set the +pan into another one containing hot water and place them in a very +moderate oven, so that the custard will set without bubbles and without +browning on top. Let the custard become perfectly cold. Without removing +it from the pan, cut it into cubes one half inch square, or into fancy +forms, with vegetable cutters.</p> + +<p>These pieces should be placed carefully in the consommé after it is in +the tureen, allowing three or four pieces to each portion of soup.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FORCE-MEAT_BALLS_92" id="FORCE-MEAT_BALLS_92"></a>FORCE-MEAT BALLS</h4> + +<p>Chop any cooked meat very fine, season highly with salt, pepper, thyme, +onion juice, lemon juice, and herbs if desired; add enough yolk of egg +to moisten and bind the meat. Mold into balls one half inch in diameter, +roll the balls in flour, and poach them in boiling water, or they may be +fried in butter.</p> + +<p>Force-meat balls may also be made of raw meat prepared as for timbale +paste (see page <a href="#CREAM_CHICKEN_FORCEMEAT_297">297</a>).</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 425px;"> +<a name="illus-092-f-3" id="illus-092-f-3" href="images/illus-092-f-3-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-092-f-3.jpg" width="425" height="178" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">RADISHES CUT TO IMITATE ROSES.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="EGG_BALLS_92" id="EGG_BALLS_92"></a>EGG BALLS</h4> + +<p>Rub to a paste, with a wooden spoon, the yolks of hard-boiled eggs; +season with salt, pepper, and butter; add enough raw<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span> yolk to bind the +paste; form it into balls one half the size of a natural yolk; roll them +in white of egg and then in flour, and poach the balls in boiling water +for a few minutes.</p> + +<p>Three yolks will make five balls. One ball is enough to allow to each +portion of soup.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="NOODLES_93" id="NOODLES_93"></a>NOODLES</h4> + +<p>Several dishes may be made from noodles.</p> + +<p>To three eggs (slightly beaten) mixed with two tablespoonfuls of water +and a little salt, add enough flour to make a stiff dough; work it well +for fifteen or twenty minutes, adding flour when necessary. When it is +smooth and elastic, cut off a small piece at a time and roll it as thin +as a wafer. It can be rolled very thin by placing a cloth under it. +Sprinkle the thin sheet with flour, and roll it into a rather tight +roll. With a sharp knife cut it, from the end,—into threads, if for +soup; if to use as a vegetable, into ribbons one quarter inch wide. Let +them dry an hour or more. They will keep the same as macaroni.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 415px;"> +<a name="illus-092-f-2" id="illus-092-f-2" href="images/illus-092-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-092-f-2.jpg" width="415" height="187" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">NOODLES. (SEE PAGE <a href="#NOODLES_93">93</a>.)</span> + +<ul class="illus"> + <li>1. Sheet of Noodle Paste.</li> + <li>2. Noodles for Soup.</li> + <li>3. Noodles to serve as vegetable.</li> + <li>4. Noodle Balls.</li> + <li>5. Sheet of Noodle Paste Rolled.</li> + <li>6. Paste cut from Roll.</li> + <li>7. Noodle Paste cut for Balls before being fried.</li> +</ul> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="NOODLES_SERVED_AS_A_VEGETABLE_93" id="NOODLES_SERVED_AS_A_VEGETABLE_93"></a>NOODLES SERVED AS A VEGETABLE</h4> + +<p>Throw a few noodles at a time into boiling, salted water; boil them +until they are done, separating them carefully with a fork to prevent +their matting together. Skim them out when done, and keep them on a warm +dish on the hot shelf until enough are cooked. Season with butter. Put +them in the dish in which they are to be served, and sprinkle over them +bread crumbs browned in hot butter to a golden color. This dish may be +served with fish, with meat, or as a course by itself. Noodles may also +be cooked like macaroni, with cheese.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="NOODLE_BALLS_93" id="NOODLE_BALLS_93"></a>NOODLE BALLS</h4> + +<p>Take some of the noodle paste made as directed above. Roll it as thin as +possible, then place it on a floured napkin and roll until it is as thin +as paper; fold it double, and cut it into circles one quarter inch in +diameter, using a small vegetable cutter or pastry bag tube. Fry them in +smoking hot fat, tossing them in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span> the frying basket so that they will +color evenly. They will puff into balls and color in one minute. Drain +and place them on paper on the hot shelf. Sprinkle them on the soup +after it is in the tureen, or better pass them, as they soften very +quickly.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MARROW_BALLS_94" id="MARROW_BALLS_94"></a>MARROW BALLS</h4> + +<p>Melt a tablespoonful of marrow and strain it through a cloth, or fine +sieve, into a bowl; beat it till creamy, then add an egg and beat again +thoroughly. Season with pepper, salt, and a little nutmeg. Add to this +mixture as much soft bread as it will moisten. Roll it into small balls +and poach in boiling water. Place them in the soup just before serving.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SWEET_POTATO_BALLS_94" id="SWEET_POTATO_BALLS_94"></a>SWEET POTATO BALLS</h4> + +<p>Mash some cooked sweet potatoes, season with butter, salt, pepper, and +nutmeg, and a little grated cheese. Moisten with beaten egg; roll into +small balls and poach in boiling water. Put the balls into the soup the +last thing before serving.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="GREEN_PEA_TIMBALE_94" id="GREEN_PEA_TIMBALE_94"></a>GREEN PEA TIMBALE FOR SOUP</h4> + +<p>Mix one half cupful of mashed green peas with one tablespoonful of soup +stock and three whites of eggs; season with salt, pepper, and a little +nutmeg. Beat well together and place in a small mold or flat tin. Set +the mold into hot water and place in slow oven until the mixture is set. +When it is firm, unmold, cut into small cubes, and put them in the soup +just before serving.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="HARLEQUIN_SLICES_94" id="HARLEQUIN_SLICES_94"></a>HARLEQUIN SLICES</h4> + +<p>Cut into small squares some cooked carrots, turnips, and string beans. +Arrange them in timbale cups, mixing the vegetables together; fill the +cups up with royale mixture. (See <a href="#ROYALE_92">above</a>.) Set them into hot water and +cook in slow oven until the custard is firm. Unmold when cold, and cut +with a sharp knife into slices one eighth of an inch thick. Place these +in the soup just before serving.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span></p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="BROTHS_95" id="BROTHS_95"></a>BROTHS</h3> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHICKEN_BROTH_95" id="CHICKEN_BROTH_95"></a>CHICKEN BROTH</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 fowl.</li> + <li>4 quarts of cold water.</li> + <li>½ cupful of rice.</li> + <li>Salt and pepper.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Clean the fowl carefully; wash it with a wet cloth; cut it into pieces +and remove the fat. Place the joints in a saucepan with a quart of water +to each pound of fowl. Let it simmer until the meat is tender; then +remove the breast; after four hours take it off and strain it through a +sieve. Let the soup stand until the grease rises; then carefully remove +it, and put the soup again in the saucepan; add the breast of the +chicken, cut into dice, and the half cupful of rice; salt and pepper to +taste, and cook until the rice is tender.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CLAM_BROTH_95" id="CLAM_BROTH_95"></a>CLAM BROTH</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>12 large hard-shelled clams for 1 pint of broth.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Boil the clams and juice for twenty minutes; strain and let it stand to +settle; strain it again carefully into a saucepan, and let it boil up +once; season with butter and pepper—no salt—and serve in cups with +whipped cream on top.</p> + +<p>To open the clams and obtain the juice, place the clams, after they have +been carefully washed with a brush and clear water, in a saucepan; add +two tablespoonfuls of hot water; cover and let them steam until the +shells open; then strain off the liquor.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MUTTON_BROTH_95" id="MUTTON_BROTH_95"></a>MUTTON BROTH</h4> + +<p>The neck or shoulder-pieces may be used for broth. The meat should be +cut into pieces and the fat removed. To each<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span> pound of meat add one +quart of cold water; simmer for four or five hours; strain it into an +earthen bowl; when ready to serve, remove the grease, and add to each +quart of stock one stick of celery, two tablespoonfuls of rice, salt and +pepper to taste, and boil until the rice is soft.</p> + +<p>The water in which a leg of mutton has been boiled will make a good +mutton soup, but is not rich enough for a broth to be served to an +invalid.</p> + +<p><a name="Broth_for_Invalids_96" id="Broth_for_Invalids_96"></a><b>Broth Made Quickly for Invalids.</b> Broth may be made quickly by chopping +lean meat to a fine mince. To a pound of meat add one pint of cold +water; let soak for fifteen minutes; then let slowly boil for half an +hour; season and strain.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span></p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="SOUPS_97" id="SOUPS_97"></a>SOUPS</h3> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BOUILLON_97" id="BOUILLON_97"></a>BOUILLON</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(3 PINTS. TIME, 5 HOURS)</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>3 lbs. of beef cut from under side of round and chopped to a mince.</li> + <li>3 quarts of cold water.</li> + <li>1 onion.</li> + <li>½ carrot.</li> + <li>1 sprig of parsley.</li> + <li>2 sticks of celery.</li> + <li>1 bay-leaf.</li> + <li>2 cloves.</li> + <li>6 peppercorns.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of salt added just before taking the soup off the fire.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Take three pounds of beef cut from the lower part of round, remove all +the fat, and chop the meat to a fine mince. Place the chopped meat in a +saucepan with three quarts of cold water, and let it stand one hour; +then put it on the fire, cover, and let it come slowly to the +boiling-point, taking off any scum that rises. Then place it where it +will only simmer. After it has simmered for four hours add the +vegetables cut into dice, and the spices, and let it simmer one hour +longer. Strain into an earthen bowl and let it cool without covering. +This stock will not jelly, as no bones are boiled with it.</p> + +<p>When ready to use remove grease, season, if necessary, with pepper and +salt, and put into saucepan with three fourths of a pound of lean meat +chopped fine, and the white of one egg. Stir until it boils; let it boil +for fifteen minutes. Lay a fine cloth on a sieve and strain through it +the bouillon without pressing. It should be perfectly clear and of the +color of amber. It can be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span> served in cups. A little sherry may be added, +if liked, when served at afternoon teas.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CONSOMME_98" id="CONSOMME_98"></a>CONSOMMÉ<a name="FNanchor_98-1_5" id="FNanchor_98-1_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_98-1_5" class="fnanchor">98-*</a></h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>4 lbs. lower part round of beef.</li> + <li>4 lbs. knuckle of veal.</li> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls of butter.</li> + <li>6 quarts of cold water.</li> + <li>1 large onion.</li> + <li>½ carrot.</li> + <li>3 stalks of celery.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of salt.</li> + <li>2 sprigs of parsley.</li> + <li>15 peppercorns.</li> + <li>3 cloves.</li> + <li>1 inch square of cinnamon.</li> + <li>A little thyme.</li> + <li>A little marjoram.</li> + <li>A little summer savory.</li> + <li>2 bay-leaves.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Cut the beef into pieces one inch square. Remove the veal from the bone, +and cut it also into small pieces. Put one tablespoonful of butter into +a very clean soup-pot with the pieces of meat, and stir over a hot fire +until the meat is browned, care being taken that it does not burn; then +add one quart of water, and let it cook until a glaze has formed on the +bottom of the kettle, which will take about one hour. Then add five +quarts of cold water and let it come slowly to the boiling-point. Set +the soup-pot back on the fire and let the soup simmer for six hours. +Remove the scum from time to time as it rises. One hour before the time +for removing the soup add to it the vegetables, which have been cut fine +and browned in one tablespoonful of butter. Add also the herbs and +spices, and one tablespoonful of salt. When it has simmered six hours, +strain it through a fine cloth, laid on a sieve, into an earthen bowl, +and let it cool without covering. A fowl added to this receipt will give +the soup a more delicate flavor. If used it should be put in the pot at +the time the five quarts of water are added. The veal-bone may also go +in at this time; but the soup will not be so clear if the bone is used. +If a chicken is used it may be removed from the stock when tender and +used for other purposes.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span></p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="OX-TAIL_SOUP_99" id="OX-TAIL_SOUP_99"></a>OX-TAIL SOUP</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>2 ox-tails.</li> + <li>1 onion.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of drippings or of salt pork.</li> + <li>4 quarts of cold water.</li> + <li>1 stick of celery.</li> + <li>1 root of parsley.</li> + <li>3 cloves.</li> + <li>6 peppercorns.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of salt.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Cut the ox-tails into pieces, separating them at the joints. Sauté the +onion and the ox-tails in the drippings to a delicate brown. Put the +meat in the soup-pot with four quarts of cold water. Let it come to the +boiling-point; add the vegetables and spices, and simmer for four hours, +then add the salt. Strain, take off the grease. Select some of the +pieces of ox-tail, one piece for each portion, and place them in the +tureen with the soup. Ox-tails are gelatinous and make a smooth soup.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="WHITE_STOCK_99" id="WHITE_STOCK_99"></a>WHITE STOCK</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 knuckle of veal.</li> + <li>1 fowl.</li> + <li>Bouquet of herbs.</li> + <li>1 onion.</li> + <li>2 stalks of celery.</li> + <li>1 small turnip cut into dice.</li> + <li>1 small carrot cut into dice.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Cut the meat from the bone. Wash the skin of the fowl (see page <a href="#TO_CLEAN_AND_DRAW_POULTRY_180">180</a>). +Allow one quart of cold water to each pound of meat and bone. Place all +in a kettle. Cover and let simmer four or five hours. Strain into an +earthen bowl, and let cool uncovered.</p> + +<p>White stock may be made of veal alone. If a fowl is used, the breast and +second joints may be removed when tender, and used for other dishes +(croquettes, soufflé, imperiale, etc.). A part of the veal may also be +removed, and used for veal loaf (see page <a href="#VEAL_LOAF_171">171</a>).</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="WHITE_SOUP_99" id="WHITE_SOUP_99"></a>WHITE SOUP</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 pint of white stock.</li> + <li>1 pint of milk or cream.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of butter.</li> + <li>Salt and pepper to taste.</li> + <li>Chicken, veal, or celery (cut into small dice), or rice.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of flour.</li> +</ul> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span>Put one pint of milk or cream into a double boiler; add to it one pint +of white stock, and a white roux made of one tablespoonful of butter and +one tablespoonful of flour cooked together, but not browned. Dilute the +roux to smoothness with a little of the cold milk before adding it to +the soup. Let it come to the boiling-point. Season to taste, and strain +into the tureen; then add one tablespoonful or more of chicken breast, +veal, or celery (cut into small dice), or rice. If desired, two or more +of these may be used, and the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, pressed through +a sieve, sprinkled over the top. This quantity gives but one quart of +soup; enough to serve to four people.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHICKEN_CONSOMME_100" id="CHICKEN_CONSOMME_100"></a>CHICKEN CONSOMMÉ, OR STOCK</h4> + +<p>Place a fowl, cut into pieces, in four quarts of cold water; let come +slowly to the boiling-point; then draw it to the side of range and +simmer for three hours. At the end of this time add one slice of onion, +two sticks of celery, one tablespoonful of salt, one saltspoonful of +pepper, and simmer one or two hours longer; strain into earthen bowl, +and let cool without covering.</p> + +<p>This stock may be cleared the same as beef stock, and served in cups for +luncheon. It may also be mixed with gelatine, cleared, and used for +aspic, in Russian salads, jellied chicken, etc. (see page <a href="#CHICKEN_ASPIC_323">323</a>).</p> + +<p>The meat from the breast and second joints may be removed from the +stock-pot, when tender, and reserved for timbales, croquettes, patties, +etc.</p> + +<p>If this soup is not rich enough, it can be reduced by opening the lid of +the pot, after it has simmered the required time, and allowed to boil +uncovered until as rich as desired.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PLAIN_CHICKEN_SOUP_100" id="PLAIN_CHICKEN_SOUP_100"></a>PLAIN CHICKEN SOUP</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 fowl.</li> + <li>4 quarts of water.</li> + <li>1 cupful of rice.</li> + <li>1 slice of onion.</li> + <li>2 sticks of celery.</li> + <li>1 sprig of parsley.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Place the fowl, cut into pieces, in a saucepan with four quarts of cold +water; when it comes to the boiling-point, draw it aside<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span> and let it +simmer for three hours; then add one thick slice of onion, two sticks of +celery, one sprig of parsley, and one cupful of rice, and simmer for +another hour; strain and let the soup stand until the grease can be +taken off the top. Remove the meat, bones, and vegetables from the +strainer, and press the rice through the sieve; stir this into the soup; +season with salt and pepper, and heat again before serving; a little +cream may also be added. This soup is also good thickened with a little +roux or with corn-starch. For the latter, take two tablespoonfuls of the +cold stock; stir into it one tablespoonful of corn-starch; then stir it +into the soup, and let cook for ten minutes to take away the raw taste +of the starch, and to make it clear. Pieces of the breast cut into dice +may also be added.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="VEGETABLE_SOUP_101" id="VEGETABLE_SOUP_101"></a>VEGETABLE SOUP</h4> + +<p>To one quart of common stock add one pint of parboiled mixed vegetables +cut into small dice. Simmer until the vegetables are tender but not +pasty. Season with salt, pepper, and one teaspoonful of sugar.</p> + +<p>Serve without straining.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TOMATO_PURE_101" id="TOMATO_PURE_101"></a>TOMATO PURÉE</h4> + +<p>Put into a granite-ware saucepan a quart of canned or of fresh tomatoes; +add a pint of water or of stock;—the soup will be better if stock is +used;—add also one bay-leaf, a sprig of parsley, a stick of celery, six +peppercorns, and a teaspoonful of sugar; simmer until the tomato is +thoroughly soft. In another saucepan put a tablespoonful of butter; when +it is hot add a sliced onion, and fry, but not brown it; then add a +tablespoonful of flour, and cook, but not brown the flour. To this roux +add enough of the tomato to dilute it, and then mix it well with the +rest of the tomato, and season with salt. Pass the whole through a fine +sieve or strainer. Heat it again before serving, and sprinkle over the +top small croûtons.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SPLIT-PEA_OR_BEAN_SOUP_102" id="SPLIT-PEA_OR_BEAN_SOUP_102"></a>SPLIT-PEA OR BEAN SOUP</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 cupful of split peas, or</li> + <li>1 cupful of dried beans.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of butter.</li> + <li>2 quarts of water.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of sugar.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of flour.</li> + <li>Salt and pepper to taste.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Let the peas or beans soak over night in three quarts of cold water. Put +the soaked peas or beans into a saucepan with two quarts of water and a +ham-bone, if you have it, otherwise it may be omitted. Let simmer for +four or five hours, or until the peas or beans are perfectly soft. (Add +more water from time to time, if necessary.) Then pass them through a +sieve; add to the pulp enough stock, or milk, or water to make a soup of +the consistency of cream. Put it again into a saucepan on the fire; +season, and add a roux made of one tablespoonful of butter and one +tablespoonful of flour cooked together; dilute the roux to smoothness +with a little of the soup before adding it to the pot.</p> + +<p>The roux will hold the particles of peas or beans in suspension. Without +it they are liable to precipitate.</p> + +<p>An onion may be boiled with the peas or beans if desired.</p> + +<p>Serve croûtons on the soup, or pass them.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BLACK-BEAN_SOUP_102" id="BLACK-BEAN_SOUP_102"></a>BLACK-BEAN SOUP</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>2 cupfuls of black beans.</li> + <li>Brown stock.</li> + <li>Brown roux.</li> + <li>Bouquet of herbs, made of a sprig of parsley, a sprig of thyme, one clove.</li> + <li>4 peppercorns, 1 onion.</li> + <li>Egg balls.</li> + <li>Thin slices of lemon.</li> + <li>Force-meat balls.</li> + <li>White of hard-boiled egg.</li> + <li>¼ cupful of sherry or red wine.</li> + <li>Salt and pepper to taste.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Soak two cupfuls of black beans over night. Put the soaked beans into a +saucepan with a bouquet of herbs, and cover them with cold water. Let +them boil slowly until tender, which will take several hours, adding +more water if necessary. When the beans are very soft remove the +bouquet, drain off the water, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span> pass the beans through a purée sieve. +Add to the pulp enough brown stock to make a soup of the consistency of +thin cream. Place it again on the fire and add a brown roux made of one +tablespoonful of butter and one tablespoonful of flour, cooked together +until brown; dilute it to smoothness before adding and cook it with the +soup for five minutes. This will prevent the soup from separating. +Season with salt and pepper. Strain it through a sieve into the tureen; +then add thin slices of lemon, egg balls, and force-meat balls, allowing +one of each to each portion of soup; add also the white of one +hard-boiled egg cut into small dice, and one quarter of a cupful of +sherry or red wine.</p> + +<p>This resembles mock-turtle soup.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CALFS-HEAD_OR_MOCK-TURTLE_SOUP_103" id="CALFS-HEAD_OR_MOCK-TURTLE_SOUP_103"></a>CALF’S-HEAD OR MOCK-TURTLE SOUP</h4> + +<p>Make a brown roux by putting in a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter, +let it brown, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and let that brown; then +add, slowly at first, one and a half or two quarts of water in which a +calf’s head has been boiled, white wine instead of vinegar being used in +the boiling (see boiled calf’s head, page <a href="#BOILED_CALFS_HEAD_175">175</a>). Add three or four +strained tomatoes and simmer for one half hour. Skim off any fat and +season with salt and pepper. Add some pieces of boiled calf’s head cut +in pieces one half inch square, a few egg balls, two or three +tablespoonfuls of sherry, and a few very thin slices of lemon.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FISH_STOCK_103" id="FISH_STOCK_103"></a>FISH STOCK</h4> + +<p>Put into the soup-pot a tablespoonful of butter or of drippings. Add a +tablespoonful each of chopped onion, carrot, and turnip. Fry them +without browning, then add fish-bones, head, and trimmings, a stalk of +celery, sprigs of parsley and of thyme, a bay-leaf, a tomato or a slice +of lemon. Cover with water, and simmer them for an hour or more. Season +with salt and pepper. Strain.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span>When this stock is used for soup, make a roux of one tablespoonful each +of butter and flour, add a cupful of milk or cream, and add this amount +to each pint of the fish stock.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="OYSTER_SOUP_104" id="OYSTER_SOUP_104"></a>OYSTER SOUP</h4> + +<p>Scald a quart, or twenty-five, oysters in their own liquor. As soon as +they are plump, or the gills curl, remove them (oysters harden if +boiled). Add to the liquor a cupful of water. Make a roux of one +tablespoonful each of butter and flour, dilute it with the liquor, and +when it is smooth add a cupful of scalded milk or cream. Season with +pepper, salt, if necessary, and a dash of cayenne or paprica; then add +the oysters, and as soon as they are heated serve at once. In oyster +houses finely shredded cabbage with a French dressing is served with +oyster soup, and is a good accompaniment when served for luncheon. +Oysters should be carefully examined, and the liquor passed through a +fine sieve before being cooked, in order to remove any pieces of shell +there may be in them.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CLAM_SOUP_104" id="CLAM_SOUP_104"></a>CLAM SOUP</h4> + +<p>Remove the clams from the shells as soon as they have opened (see clam +broth, page <a name="corr10" id="corr10"></a><a href="#CLAM_BROTH_95">95</a>). Put them in a warm place, until the juice is prepared. +Add a cupful of hot milk to a quart of juice, and thicken it with a roux +made of one tablespoonful of butter and one tablespoonful of flour; then +add the clams, chopped fine, season, and bring the soup again to the +boiling-point and serve. Two spoonfuls of whipped cream served on each +plateful of soup is an improvement to the dish.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span></p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="CREAM_SOUPS_105" id="CREAM_SOUPS_105"></a>CREAM SOUPS</h3> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ONION_SOUP_105" id="ONION_SOUP_105"></a>ONION SOUP</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(A VERY SIMPLE SOUP QUICKLY MADE)</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Slice</span> two or three large onions; fry them in a tablespoonful of butter +or drippings until they are soft and red, then add three tablespoonfuls +of flour, and stir until it is a little cooked. To this add slowly a +pint of boiling water, stirring all the time, so it will be smooth.</p> + +<p>Boil and mash three good-sized potatoes. Add to them slowly a quart of +scalded milk, stirring well so it will be smooth. Add the potato and +milk mixture to the onion mixture. Season with salt and pepper. Let it +get very hot, and pass it through a strainer into the tureen. Sprinkle +over the top a little parsley chopped very fine, and a few croûtons. The +soup will be better if stock is used instead of water to dilute the +onion mixture.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="POTATO_SOUP_105" id="POTATO_SOUP_105"></a>POTATO SOUP</h4> + +<p>Boil and mash three or four potatoes.</p> + +<p>Make a roux of one tablespoonful of butter, one half tablespoonful of +flour, and one teaspoonful of chopped onion, letting the onion cook in +the butter a few minutes before adding the flour. When the roux is +cooked add to it a pint of milk, making a thin, white sauce. Add this to +the mashed potato and pass the whole through a strainer. Return it to +the fire for a few minutes to heat and blend it. Season it with salt and +pepper.</p> + +<p>Sprinkle on the soup, when it is in the tureen, a teaspoonful of chopped +parsley and a few croûtons.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span>If the soup is too thick, add a little more milk or a little hot water. +The roux prevents the milk and potato from separating, and also gives it +smoothness. The soup can be made richer by using more milk, and stirring +into it, just before serving, the beaten yolks of two eggs. This soup +may also be made of sweet potatoes.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TOMATO_BISQUE_106" id="TOMATO_BISQUE_106"></a>TOMATO BISQUE</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>½ can of tomatoes.</li> + <li>1 quart of milk.</li> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls of butter.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of corn-starch.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>½ saltspoonful of pepper.</li> + <li>1 saltspoonful of soda.</li> + <li>Dash of cayenne.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Stew the tomatoes until very soft; then pass them through a fine sieve +or strainer. Put the strained tomatoes into a granite-ware saucepan, and +add one saltspoonful of soda; when it has ceased foaming add the butter, +a small piece at a time; if put in all at once it will show an oily +line; add salt, pepper, and cayenne.</p> + +<p>Put the milk into a double boiler, and stir into it a tablespoonful of +corn-starch which has been mixed with a little of the cold milk, to make +it smooth; let it scald for ten minutes, or long enough to cook the +corn-starch; then pour the milk into the tomatoes, beat well together, +and serve at once.</p> + +<p>It is better not to add the milk to the tomatoes until just ready to +serve, for fear of curdling.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CREAM_OF_ASPARAGUS_106" id="CREAM_OF_ASPARAGUS_106"></a>CREAM OF ASPARAGUS; <a name="CREAM_OF_GREEN_PEAS_106" id="CREAM_OF_GREEN_PEAS_106"></a>CREAM OF GREEN PEAS; <a name="CREAM_OF_STRING_BEANS_106" id="CREAM_OF_STRING_BEANS_106"></a>CREAM OF STRING BEANS; <a name="CREAM_OR_SPINACH_106" id="CREAM_OR_SPINACH_106"></a>CREAM OR +SPINACH; <a name="CREAM_OF_CORN_106" id="CREAM_OF_CORN_106"></a>CREAM OF CORN; <a name="CREAM_OF_CELERY_106" id="CREAM_OF_CELERY_106"></a>CREAM OF CELERY</h4> + +<p>These soups are very delicate, and are much esteemed. They are all made +in the same way. The vegetable is boiled until soft, and is then pressed +through a sieve. A pint of the vegetable pulp is diluted with a quart of +stock (the stock may be veal, beef, or chicken broth). It is thickened +with a roux made of one tablespoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls +of flour, seasoned with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span> pepper and salt, and is then strained again, so +it will be perfectly smooth. It is replaced on the fire, a cupful or a +half cupful of cream added, and the whole beaten with an egg-whip to +make it light, and is served at once very hot. The French thicken cream +soups with egg-yolks. In this case two yolks would be used for the above +quantity. The beaten yolks are diluted with the cream, and cooked only +just long enough to set the egg. It would curdle if allowed to boil. +Butter is needed for seasoning, and where eggs are used it should be +added in small bits before the cream and eggs. Where roux is used for +thickening, there is enough butter in the roux.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CREAM_OF_CLAMS_107" id="CREAM_OF_CLAMS_107"></a>CREAM OF CLAMS</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>25 large clams.</li> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls of butter.</li> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls of flour.</li> + <li>1½ pints of milk.</li> + <li>Small slice of onion.</li> + <li>Dash of nutmeg.</li> + <li>Salt and pepper.</li> + <li>½ pint of cream.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Wash the clam shells thoroughly with a brush and clear water.</p> + +<p>Put them into a pot on the fire with one half cup of boiling water; +cover and let steam until the shells open; take out the clams and let +the liquor settle; then strain it carefully, and set aside; remove the +clams from the shells; chop them, pound them in a mortar, and press as +much of them as possible through a purée sieve. Put the milk into a +double boiler with the slice of onion. Put the butter into a frying-pan, +and when it bubbles, stir into it the flour, and let it cook a few +minutes, but not brown; add enough of the milk slowly to make the roux +liquid; then add it to the milk in the double boiler, first having +removed the slice of onion; add a dash of nutmeg and of pepper, then the +cream; when ready to serve, stir in the clam pulp and one pint of the +clam liquor; taste to see if salt will be needed. After the clams are +added to the milk, leave it on the fire only long enough to get well +heated; if boiled, the milk will curdle.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span> Beat a moment with an +egg-whisk to make foamy. If the mixture is too thick, it may be diluted +with milk or cream.</p> + +<p>This is good for luncheon, served in small cups, the top covered with a +spoonful of whipped cream.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CREAM_OF_OYSTERS_108" id="CREAM_OF_OYSTERS_108"></a>CREAM OF OYSTERS</h4> + +<p>Scald a quart of oysters in their own liquor. Remove the oysters; chop +and pound them in a mortar, then press as much of them as possible +through a purée sieve.</p> + +<p>Make a roux of one tablespoonful of butter and a heaping tablespoonful +of flour. Dilute it with the oyster juice. Add the oyster pulp; season +it with pepper, salt, and paprica, and keep it hot until ready to serve. +Just before serving add a half pint of whipped cream, and beat it well +into the <a name="corr11" id="corr11"></a>soup.<a name="FNanchor_108-1_6" id="FNanchor_108-1_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_108-1_6" class="fnanchor">108-*</a></p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SOUP_A_LA_REINE_108" id="SOUP_A_LA_REINE_108"></a>SOUP À LA REINE</h4> + +<p>Put a chicken into three quarts of water. Simmer it slowly for two +hours, or until the chicken is very tender. A half hour before removing +it add a half pound of rice and a bouquet containing one root of +parsley, one sprig of thyme, a thin slice of onion, and a stick of +celery. Boil it until the rice is soft, then strain through a colander. +Let the broth cool and remove the grease. Remove the white meat from the +bones of the chicken, put it with the rice in a mortar, and pound both +to a pulp. Pass the pulp through a purée sieve, moistening it with a +little stock to make it pass through easier. When ready to serve, add +the purée to the stock, season with salt and pepper, and heat it +thoroughly without boiling. Just before sending it to the table add a +half pint of hot cream.</p> + +<p>If desired the soup can be thickened with a little roux, or with fifteen +blanched almonds chopped and pounded to a paste, using a little cream to +prevent the almonds from oiling.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BISQUE_OF_LOBSTER_109" id="BISQUE_OF_LOBSTER_109"></a>BISQUE OF LOBSTER</h4> + +<p>Put into a mortar equal parts of boiled lobster meat and boiled rice; +pound them to a pulp; then add enough broth to dilute it; season with +salt and paprica. Pass it through a sieve. Heat it without boiling, and +then add enough Béchamel sauce to make it the consistency of cream soup; +lastly, add to each quart of soup a quarter of a pound of lobster +butter, adding a little at a time, and stirring until the butter is +melted. Instead of the lobster butter, plain butter may be used, and the +coral of the lobster, dried and pounded to a powder, stirred in at the +same time. Serve croûtons with the bisque.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="LOBSTER_BUTTER_109" id="LOBSTER_BUTTER_109"></a>LOBSTER BUTTER</h4> + +<p>After the meat is removed from the lobster, take all the rest (except +the lady, woolly gills and intestine), including the shell, and put it +into a mortar with twice its weight of butter. Pound it to a pulp; then +place it in a saucepan on the fire, and cook until the butter is melted. +Strain it through a cloth. Beat the strained butter until it is cold. If +not a deep enough color, add a very little cochineal.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span></p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="CHOWDERS_110" id="CHOWDERS_110"></a>CHOWDERS</h3> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="POTATO_CHOWDER_110" id="POTATO_CHOWDER_110"></a>POTATO CHOWDER</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>6 good-sized potatoes.</li> + <li>¼ lb. salt pork.</li> + <li>1 onion.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful butter.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful flour.</li> + <li>1 pint milk or cream.</li> + <li>1 pint water.</li> + <li>1 tablesp’ful chopped parsley.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful salt.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful pepper.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Cut the potatoes into dice, cut the pork into small pieces, and put it +with the sliced onion into a frying pan, and fry until a light brown.</p> + +<p>Put into a kettle a layer of potatoes, then a layer of onions and pork, +and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and chopped parsley. Repeat this until +all the potatoes, pork, onions, and parsley are in. Pour over them the +grease from the pan in which the pork and onions were fried. Add one +pint of water, cover, and let simmer twenty minutes. Scald the milk in a +double boiler, and add it to a roux made of the flour and butter. Add +this to the pot when the potatoes are tender, and stir carefully +together, so as not to break the potatoes. Taste to see if the seasoning +is right. Serve very hot.</p> + +<p>This is a good dish for luncheon, or for supper in the country.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FISH_CHOWDER_110" id="FISH_CHOWDER_110"></a>FISH CHOWDER</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>3 lbs. fresh fish.</li> + <li>3 large potatoes.</li> + <li>1 large onion.</li> + <li>½ lb. salt pork.</li> + <li>1 pint milk.</li> + <li>3 ship crackers.</li> + <li>Pepper and salt.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Cut the fish, the potatoes, and the onion into slices. Cut the pork into +half-inch dice. Put the pork and the onion into a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span> pan and sauté them a +light brown. Place in alternate layers in a large saucepan first +potatoes, then fish, then pork and onion; dust with salt and pepper, and +continue in this order until all the materials are used. Cover the whole +with boiling water and let the mixture simmer for twenty minutes. Scald +a pint of milk or of cream, take it off the fire and add one and a half +tablespoonfuls of butter and three broken ship crackers or the same +quantity of water biscuits. Arrange the fish mixture in a mound on a +dish, cover it with the softened crackers, and pour over the whole the +hot milk.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CLAM_CHOWDER_111" id="CLAM_CHOWDER_111"></a>CLAM CHOWDER</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>50 clams.</li> + <li>1 medium-sized onion.</li> + <li>6 oz. salt pork.</li> + <li>3 large potatoes.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful salt.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful pepper.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful butter.</li> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls flour.</li> + <li>1 pint of milk or cream.</li> + <li>1 saltspoonful of mace.</li> + <li>1 saltspoonful of thyme.</li> + <li>3 ship crackers.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Put the clams, with their own liquor, into a saucepan on the fire. When +they have boiled three minutes, remove the clams and return the liquor +to the fire. Cut the pork into slices. Chop an onion and fry it with the +pork until both are browned. Then stir in two tablespoonfuls of flour. +When the flour is cooked, add slowly the clam liquor, a dash of mace and +thyme, and salt, if necessary; then add three parboiled potatoes cut +into dice, and cook until the potatoes are tender. When ready to serve +add a pint of milk or cream, the clams cut into pieces, and a quarter of +a pound of broken ship crackers or any hard water cracker.</p> + + +<div class="footnotes"> +<p><a name="Footnote_84-1_3" id="Footnote_84-1_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_84-1_3"><span class="label">84-*</span></a> It is not meant to imply that the stock-pot should never +be removed from the range and that articles should be added at any time. +When the nutriment is extracted from one collection of materials, the +stock should be strained off, the pot thoroughly cleaned, and a new +stock started as soon as enough materials have again accumulated.—M. +R.</p> + +<p><a name="Footnote_87-1_4" id="Footnote_87-1_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_87-1_4"><span class="label">87-*</span></a> It will be difficult if not impossible to make a +perfectly clear and brilliant soup from stock where bones have been +used, if the stock has been subjected to boiling heat. Boiling dissolves +the lime in the bones, and this gives a cloudiness which clarifying will +not entirely remove.—M. R.</p> + +<p><a name="Footnote_98-1_5" id="Footnote_98-1_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_98-1_5"><span class="label">98-*</span></a> This receipt gives a perfectly clear brilliant soup +after it is clarified. If no bones are used it can be boiled slowly +without injury instead of being simmered. The stock will not always +jelly.—M. R.</p> + +<p><a name="Footnote_108-1_6" id="Footnote_108-1_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_108-1_6"><span class="label">108-*</span></a> Any soup made of milk will be greatly improved by +adding a cupful of hot cream just before serving.</p> + +<p>A little fish stock improves clam or oyster cream soup.</p></div> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="Chapter_III" id="Chapter_III"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter III</span><br /> +<br /> +FISH</h2> + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Cooking_112" id="Cooking_112"></a><b>Cooking.</b></span> <span class="smcap">It</span> is essential that fish should be perfectly fresh, +thoroughly cleaned, and carefully cooked. If underdone it is +not eatable; if cooked too long it loses flavor and becomes +dry. The sooner it is cooked after being taken from the water, +the better. <span class="sidenote"><a name="Freshness_112" id="Freshness_112"></a><b>Freshness.</b></span> When fresh, the eyes are bright, the gills red, +the flesh firm and odorless. <span class="sidenote"><b><br /><a name="Dressing_112" id="Dressing_112"></a>Dressing.</b></span>Ordinarily the fishman removes +the scales and draws the fish before delivering it; but if +not, this should be done at once, and the fish thoroughly +washed, but not allowed to soak in water, then wiped dry and +put into the refrigerator, on the ice, the skin side down, but +not in the same compartment with butter, milk, or other foods +which absorb flavors.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Keeping_112" id="Keeping_112"></a><b>Keeping Frozen Fish.</b></span> Fish that are frozen should be laid in cold water until +thawed, but not allowed to remain in the water after they +become flexible.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Trimming_112" id="Trimming_112"></a><b>Trimming.</b></span> The head and tail should be left on, and the fins trimmed, +of any fish which is to be served whole.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="The_bones_112" id="The_bones_112"></a><b>The bones.</b></span> When the fillets only are to be used, the head and bones may +be used for a fish soup.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="To_skin_bone_112" id="To_skin_bone_112"></a><b>To skin, bone, and remove the fillets.</b></span> To separate a fish, cut through the skin all around, then, +beginning at the head, loosen the skin and strip it down. By +putting salt on the hand a firmer grasp may be obtained, and +with the aid of a knife the skin can be removed without +tearing the flesh. After the skin is taken off from both +sides, slip the knife under<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span> the flesh, and keeping it close +to the bone, remove the fillets. The fillets may then be cut +into two or more pieces according to the size of the fish, +care being used to have them of uniform size and shape.</p> + +<p>Fillets taken from small fish and from flounders or other +flat fish are sometimes rolled and held until cooked with +small skewers. Wooden toothpicks serve this purpose very +well.</p> + +<p>Fish containing many bones are not suitable for fillets.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="TO_CARVE_FISH_113" id="TO_CARVE_FISH_113"></a>TO CARVE FISH</h4> + +<p>Run a knife down the back, cutting through the skin. Remove +the fins. Then cut into even pieces on one side. When these +pieces are served, remove the bone, and cut the under side +in the same way.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="TO_BOIL_FISH_113" id="TO_BOIL_FISH_113"></a>TO BOIL FISH</h4> + +<p>Add one teaspoonful of salt and one tablespoonful of vinegar +to every two quarts of water, and use sufficient water to +entirely cover the fish. The salt and vinegar serve to whiten +and harden, as well as to season the meat. A bay-leaf and soup +vegetables in the water improve the flavor of cod and some +other fish. The fish must not be put into cold water, as that +extracts the flavor; nor into boiling water, as that breaks +the skin and gives it a ragged appearance. Lower the fish +gradually into warm water, let it come quickly to the boiling +point, then draw to the side of the range, where it will +simmer only, until done.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Time_113" id="Time_113"></a><b>Time.</b></span> Allow ten minutes to the pound after the water has begun to +simmer.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="The_Kettle_113" id="The_Kettle_113"></a><b>The Kettle.</b></span> A fish kettle, with strainer, is requisite for boiling a +fish whole. A plate held in a piece of cheese cloth may be +used for smaller pieces. When the fish is done the strainer +should be lifted out carefully and placed across the kettle +until the fish is well drained.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="To_boil_a_fish_whole_114" id="To_boil_a_fish_whole_114"></a><b>To boil a fish whole.</b></span> A boiled as well as a baked fish is more attractive served +upright as if swimming. To hold it in this position, place a +carrot inside the fish to give it roundness and stability, and +prop it on both sides with pieces of carrot or turnip. The +head must be wrapped with cord or a strip of cheese cloth to +keep it from losing shape, and the whole held in position by +strings going around the strainer (see <a href="#illus-114-f-1">illustration</a>). If a +fish is too large for the kettle, it may be cut into halves or +thirds, and when cooked laid carefully together on the dish +and garnishing placed over the cuts.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 415px;"> +<a name="illus-114-f-1" id="illus-114-f-1" href="images/illus-114-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-114-f-1.jpg" width="415" height="192" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">FISH PREPARED TO BOIL IN UPRIGHT POSITION. (SEE PAGE +<a href="#To_boil_a_fish_whole_114">114</a>.)</span> +</div> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Serving_114" id="Serving_114"></a><b>Serving.</b></span> Boiled fish is served on a napkin, and garnished with +parsley. This may be so arranged as to conceal any defects.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Garnishes_114" id="Garnishes_114"></a><b>Garnishes.</b></span> Slices of lemon, slices of hard-boiled eggs, chopped pickle, +or capers may also be used for garnishing. Boiled potato +balls may be served on the same dish.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Sauces_114" id="Sauces_114"></a><b>Sauces.</b></span> Boiled fish needs a rich white sauce. Drawn butter, egg, +Hollandaise, or Béchamel sauces are generally used.</p></div> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 418px;"> +<a name="illus-114-f-2" id="illus-114-f-2" href="images/illus-114-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-114-f-2.jpg" width="418" height="200" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">SLICES OF CODFISH BOILED OR SAUTÉD AND RESTED AGAINST A +WEDGE-SHAPED BREAD SUPPORT AND GARNISHED WITH BOILED OR FRIED POTATO +BALLS, WATER-CRESS, AND LEMON.</span> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span></p> + +<h3 class="subchapter">FISH</h3> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COURT_BOUILLON_115" id="COURT_BOUILLON_115"></a>COURT BOUILLON</h4> + +<p>Court bouillon is used for boiling fresh-water fish or others which are +without much flavor. It may be prepared beforehand, and used several +times, or the vegetables may be added at the time the fish is boiled.</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>Fry in 1 tablespoonful of butter,</li> + <li>1 chopped carrot,</li> + <li>1 chopped onion,</li> + <li>1 stalk of celery.</li> +</ul> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>Then add 2 quarts of hot water,</li> + <li>1 cup of vinegar or wine,</li> + <li>3 peppercorns,</li> + <li>3 cloves,</li> + <li>1 bay-leaf,</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of salt.</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BAKED_FISH_115" id="BAKED_FISH_115"></a>BAKED FISH</h4> + +<p>After the fish is carefully washed and dried, put in the stuffing, and +sew up the opening with a trussing needle; then cut three gashes in each +side of the fish, and lay a lardoon of salt pork in each cut. Next, run +a trussing needle, holding a double white cotton cord, through the head, +the middle of the body, and the tail. Draw the fish into the shape of +the letter S, and tie the cord firmly. In order to cook evenly, it is +better to have the fish upright, and by trussing as directed it will +hold that position. Dredge the fish with salt, pepper, and flour, and +lay it on slices of larding pork in a baking pan. Place also over the +back slices of pork. Allow fifteen minutes to each pound, and baste +frequently. The pork should supply sufficient liquid for basting; if +not, add a very little water. The fish can be more easily removed if a +baking sheet is used in the bottom of the pan. (See illustration facing +page <a href="#illus-118-f-1">118</a>.)</p> + +<p>Serve with a brown sauce. Garnish with lemon and parsley.</p> + +<p>Haddock, bluefish, shad, and bass are good for baking.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 421px;"> +<a name="illus-118-f-1" id="illus-118-f-1" href="images/illus-118-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-118-f-1.jpg" width="421" height="195" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">FISH PREPARED TO BAKE. (SEE PAGE <a href="#BAKED_FISH_115">115</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STUFFINGS_FOR_BAKED_FISH_116" id="STUFFINGS_FOR_BAKED_FISH_116"></a>STUFFINGS FOR BAKED FISH</h4> + +<p>Put a large tablespoonful of butter into a saucepan. When melted stir +into it</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 cupful of cracker or dry bread crumbs,</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of chopped onion,</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of chopped capers,</li> + <li>¼ teaspoonful salt,</li> + <li>¼ teaspoonful pepper,</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley.</li> +</ul> + +<p>If a moist stuffing is preferred, add one quarter cupful of milk, stock +or water.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe">BREAD STUFFING</h4> + +<p>Fry a tablespoonful of chopped onion in a tablespoonful of butter. Add a +cupful or more of stale bread, which has been soaked in hot water, then +pressed dry. A tablespoonful each of chopped parsley, suet, and celery, +one quarter teaspoonful each of salt and pepper, and a dash of powdered +thyme (if liked). When it is well mixed, remove from the fire and add an +egg.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TO_BROIL_FISH_116" id="TO_BROIL_FISH_116"></a>TO BROIL FISH</h4> + +<p>Fish to be broiled are split down the back. After being washed and well +dried, they should be rubbed with oil or butter, or the skin floured, to +keep from sticking. The broiler should be made hot and greased with a +piece of salt pork before the fish is laid on. The hot wires will sear +the lines which should always show on broiled dishes. The fire must be +clear and hot for small fish, more moderate for large ones, so the +outside may not be burned before the inside is cooked. When there is +danger of this, the broiler may be laid on a pan in the oven to complete +the cooking. The broiler should be turned as often as the cook counts +ten, and as the skin burns easily, it must be carefully watched. When +done, the wires should be carefully raised from both sides so as not to +break the meat, and the fish turned on to a hot dish and spread with +butter, salt, and pepper, or better, a maître d’hôtel sauce. This sauce +makes a more evenly distributed mixture. A wreath of water<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span>-cresses laid +around the fish makes a good garnish, and is an acceptable accompaniment +to any broiled dish. Lemon is also used for garnish and flavor.</p> + +<p>Shad, bluefish, and mackerel are most frequently cooked in this way.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TO_SAUTE_FISH_117" id="TO_SAUTE_FISH_117"></a>TO SAUTÉ FISH</h4> + +<p>Small or pan fish, and fish cut into slices, are often sautéd. After the +fish is washed and dried, dredge it with salt and pepper, and roll in +flour, then dip in egg and roll in bread crumbs, cracker dust, or in +corn-meal. Put into a frying-pan a few pieces of salt pork, and after +sufficient grease has tried out, lay in the fish; or one tablespoonful +of lard and one tablespoonful of butter may be used instead of the fat +pork. Butter burns, and should not be used alone. The grease must be +very hot, and only enough of it to cover the bottom of the pan one +eighth of an inch deep. Turn the fish with a broad knife or pancake +turner, and with care to not break the meat. When cooked an amber color +it is ready to turn.</p> + +<p>Slices of halibut should be marinated (see page <a href="#TO_MARINATE_79">79</a>) before being coated +with flour. Lay the fish or slices overlapping each other on a hot dish. +Serve with quarters of lemon, and garnish with parsley. (See +illustrations facing pages <a href="#illus-114-f-2">114</a> and <a href="#illus-124-f-2">124</a>.)</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TO_FRY_FISH_117" id="TO_FRY_FISH_117"></a>TO FRY FISH</h4> + +<p>Fish to be fried are first well washed and dried, then dredged with +salt, pepper, and flour, then dipped in egg, and rolled in bread or +cracker crumbs. The fish should be completely incased in the egg and +crumbs, leaving no opening for the grease to enter. The same rule +applies to frying fish as to other articles (see page <a href="#FRYING_72">72</a>). They must +have entire immersion, and the fat smoking hot.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TO_FRY_SMELTS_117" id="TO_FRY_SMELTS_117"></a>TO FRY SMELTS</h4> + +<p>Smelts, after being washed, dried, and sprinkled with salt and pepper, +are dipped in egg, then rolled in bread or cracker crumbs. The head and +tail pinned together with a small<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span> skewer, or wooden tooth-pick (to be +removed after they are fried), makes them into rings, and is a pretty +way of serving them either by themselves or for garnishing other fish +dishes. Cook only as many as will cover the bottom of the frying-basket +at one time (see rules for frying, page <a href="#FRYING_72">72</a>). Dress the smelts on a +folded napkin, and serve with Mayonnaise or with Tartare sauce.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 424px;"> +<a name="illus-118-f-2" id="illus-118-f-2" href="images/illus-118-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-118-f-2.jpg" width="424" height="191" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">SMELTS FRIED IN RINGS. (SEE PAGE <a href="#TO_FRY_SMELTS_117">117</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRIED_SMELTS_ON_SKEWERS_117" id="FRIED_SMELTS_ON_SKEWERS_117"></a>FRIED SMELTS ON SKEWERS</h4> + +<p>Use medium sized smelts, clean carefully, and wipe them dry. Dredge them +with salt and pepper; dip them in egg and roll them in crumbs. String +three or four on each skewer, the skewer passing through the eyes. Place +them in a frying-basket, a few at a time, and immerse in very hot fat. +Prepare at a time only as many as will go in the frying-basket. The time +given to rolling them is only as long as required for the fat to regain +the right degree of heat. Dress on a napkin and serve with Mayonnaise, +Tartare sauce, or quarters of lemon.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BROILED_SMELTS_118" id="BROILED_SMELTS_118"></a>BROILED SMELTS</h4> + +<p>Split the smelts down the back and remove the bone. Lay them on a hot +broiler, which has been rubbed with suet, to prevent sticking. Broil +over hot coals for two minutes on each side. Put into a dish some +Béchamel sauce, and lay the broiled fish on the sauce, or they may be +spread with maître d’hôtel sauce. Serve at once while very hot.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRIED_FILLETS_OF_FISH_118" id="FRIED_FILLETS_OF_FISH_118"></a>FRIED FILLETS OF FISH</h4> + +<p>Remove fillets as directed on page <a href="#To_skin_bone_112">112</a>. Dip them in salted milk, roll in +flour, then in egg and fresh bread crumbs. Fry as soon as prepared in +hot fat. Fillets may also be cooked by sautéing. Arrange the fillets on +a napkin or hot dish, overlapping each other. Serve with Béarnaise, +Mayonnaise or Tartare sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="WHITEBAIT_118" id="WHITEBAIT_118"></a>WHITEBAIT</h4> + +<p>Wash the whitebait with great care, and dry well by rubbing them in a +napkin. Roll them in flour, using enough to entirely<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span> cover them. Toss +them on a sieve to shake off the loose flour. Place them in a fine wire +basket, and immerse in smoking hot fat for one minute, or just long +enough to give them a light amber color. The fish are so small, it takes +but a moment to cook them, and there is danger of burning them by +leaving them in the fat too long. They should be crisp and dry. Only +enough to make one layer on the bottom of the basket should be fried at +once. Too many will cool the fat, and also will stick together. The fat +must be brought to the right degree of heat before putting in the second +basketful. They should be floured only just before going into the fat. +The flour becomes damp if it remains on the fish for any time, and they +will then neither take color nor become crisp. Turn them on to a paper, +sprinkle with salt, and keep them in a warm oven until all are cooked. +Have a hot dish with a folded napkin on it standing on the warming +shelf. Place the whitebait between the folds of the napkin, and serve +immediately. They cool rapidly, and should not be cooked until just in +time to serve. They are easily prepared, and very nice when crisp and +hot, but will not be right unless care is given to the small details.</p> + +<p>Serve with quarters of lemon.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 425px;"> +<a name="illus-118-f-3" id="illus-118-f-3" href="images/illus-118-f-3-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-118-f-3.jpg" width="425" height="200" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">WHITEBAIT. (SEE PAGE <a href="#WHITEBAIT_118">118</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BOILED_HALIBUT_STEAKS_119" id="BOILED_HALIBUT_STEAKS_119"></a>BOILED HALIBUT STEAKS</h4> + +<p>Lay two chicken halibut steaks into a shallow stew pan, sufficiently +large to allow them to lie side by side. Cover them with court bouillon +or with hot water, and add a slice of carrot, onion, piece of celery, +bay-leaf, four cloves, six peppercorns, and juice of half a lemon. Let +simmer until done. Or they may be put into a baking pan, with a little +water, covered with another pan or greased paper, and steamed in the +oven until cooked. Lift out the slices with a skimmer and broad knife, +and with care not to break them; lay them on a hot dish, one a little +overlapping the other.</p> + +<p>Garnish with boiled potato balls, and serve with egg or with Hollandaise +sauce. (See illustration facing page <a href="#illus-124-f-2">124</a>.)</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="HALIBUT_TURKISH_STYLE_120" id="HALIBUT_TURKISH_STYLE_120"></a>HALIBUT—TURKISH STYLE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(RECEIPT GIVEN AT ONE OF MRS. RORER’S LECTURES)</p> + +<p>Place on the bottom of a baking pan two or three slices of onion, then a +cutlet of halibut, and put a tablespoonful of butter cut into small bits +over the top of the fish. Cut three skinned tomatoes into quarters, +slice a sweet green pepper into ribbons, and put the tomatoes and pepper +on the fish. Put the pan on the shelf of the oven to cook first the +vegetables, but do not let it remain there long enough to discolor or +change their shape; then remove it to the bottom of the oven, baste it +well, and finish the cooking. When done place it carefully on a hot +dish, and pour over it the juice from the pan. The fish should retain +its whiteness, and the vegetables their color, giving a very pretty as +well as delicious dish.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SCALLOPED_FISH_120" id="SCALLOPED_FISH_120"></a>SCALLOPED FISH</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>2 pounds halibut or any white fish, boiled with</li> + <li>1 slice onion,</li> + <li>1 stalk celery,</li> + <li>1 sprig parsley,</li> + <li>6 peppercorns,</li> + <li>4 cloves,</li> + <li>1 bay-leaf,</li> + <li>Juice of one-half a lemon,</li> + <li>1 cupful white sauce,</li> + <li>Mashed potato.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Boil two pounds of fish in court bouillon until tender enough to flake. +Make a white sauce of one tablespoonful butter, one tablespoonful flour, +one cupful of milk, salt, pepper, and cayenne. (See white sauce, page +<a href="#WHITE_SAUCE_FOR_FISH_278">278</a>.) Boil four medium-sized potatoes, mash them, and season with one +half teaspoonful of salt, one quarter teaspoonful of pepper, and a +little cream or milk; beat them until light, then add the whites of four +eggs beaten stiff.</p> + +<p>Fill a baking dish one half full of the flaked fish, pour over it the +white sauce, and cover the top with potato, leaving the potato rough and +irregular. Place in the oven for fifteen minutes, or until browned. +Cream may be substituted for the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</a></span> white sauce, and enough used to +moisten well the fish. Shells or individual cups may be used instead of +a baking dish.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SCALLOPED_FISH_AU_GRATIN_121" id="SCALLOPED_FISH_AU_GRATIN_121"></a>SCALLOPED FISH AU GRATIN</h4> + +<p>Make a Béchamel sauce (see page <a href="#BECHAMEL_SAUCE_279">279</a>). Take some seasoned mashed potato, +and mix with it one beaten egg. Make with the potato a border around a +flat dish. In the center of the ring of potato spread a layer of sauce, +over this a layer of flaked cod fish, then another layer of sauce and +fish, cover the top with sauce, sprinkle it with bread crumbs and grated +cheese (parmesan or dairy), and a few pieces of butter. Bake in a hot +oven until browned, and serve in the same dish. The potato border may be +made ornamental by pressing the potato through a pastry bag with tube, +the same as is used for potato roses (see page <a href="#POTATO_ROSES_202">202</a>). The potato will not +hold its form unless egg is mixed with it.</p> + +<p>White sauce may be used instead of Béchamel, but is not quite as good. +One layer of fish in large flakes, covered with sauce, crumbs, and +cheese, and browned with a border of boiled potato balls laid around +regularly, is also a good way of serving it when a small quantity is +needed.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FISH_CHOPS_121" id="FISH_CHOPS_121"></a>FISH CHOPS</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 pound or 1 pint of fish.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of pepper.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of onion juice.</li> + <li>1 cupful of milk or cream.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of butter.</li> + <li>2 rounded tablespoonfuls flour.</li> + <li>Yolks of two eggs.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Put in a double boiler one cupful of cream or milk; when scalded, stir +into it the butter and flour rubbed together, and cook for five minutes. +Remove from the fire and mix in, stirring all the time, the beaten yolks +of two eggs, put again on the fire, and stir until thickened.</p> + +<p>Take one pound or pint of shredded boiled fish, sprinkle over it one +teaspoonful of salt, one half teaspoonful of pepper, one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</a></span> tablespoonful +of chopped parsley, ten drops of lemon juice. Mix the seasoned fish with +the white sauce, then spread it on a dish and set aside for several +hours to cool and stiffen. It will not be difficult to mold if it stands +long enough. Take a tablespoonful of the mixture in the hands, and mold +into the form of chops, round at one end and pointed at the other; roll +the chops in crumbs, then in beaten egg, then in coarse bread crumbs +grated from the loaf (see croquettes, page <a href="#TO_MOLD_CROQUETTES_293">293</a>). After the chops are +molded let them stand for a time to stiffen before frying. Place them in +a basket four at a time, and immerse in hot fat until an amber color. +Place on a paper to dry. When all are done pierce a small hole in the +pointed end with a fork, and insert a sprig of parsley. Dress on a +napkin, and serve with tomato, Béarnaise, or Hollandaise sauce. Any kind +of fish may be used for the chops. (See illustration facing page <a href="#illus-130-f-1">130</a>.)</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 426px;"> +<a name="illus-130-f-1" id="illus-130-f-1" href="images/illus-130-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-130-f-1.jpg" width="426" height="202" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">FISH CHOPS. (SEE PAGE <a href="#FISH_CHOPS_121">121</a>.)</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 421px;"> +<a name="illus-130-f-2" id="illus-130-f-2" href="images/illus-130-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-130-f-2.jpg" width="421" height="198" alt="See caption" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">FISH CHOPS.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FILLETS_BAKED_WITH_CUSTARD_122" id="FILLETS_BAKED_WITH_CUSTARD_122"></a>FILLETS BAKED WITH CUSTARD OR TOMATOES</h4> + +<p>Remove the fillets from any white fish, dredge them with salt and +pepper, and lay them in a baking pan, one on top of the other. Beat two +eggs, and add to them</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>2 cupfuls of milk,</li> + <li>1 saltspoonful of salt,</li> + <li>1 saltspoonful of pepper,</li> + <li>1 saltspoonful of nutmeg,</li> + <li>3 soda crackers rolled to powder.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into the pan with the fish, and set it +in the oven. When the butter is melted, add one half the milk mixture, +and baste the fish with it frequently. When the custard becomes set add +a little more of the milk, and continue the operation until the fish is +cooked. Lift the fish carefully from the pan with a pancake turner and +broad knife. Place it on a hot dish, and pile on the top the flakes of +custard. Instead of the milk mixture tomato may be used if preferred.</p> + +<p>To one half can of tomato add</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 teaspoonful of salt,</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of thyme,</li> + <li>¼ teaspoonful of pepper,</li> + <li>1 slice of onion,</li> + <li>1 bay-leaf,</li> + <li>3 cloves.</li> +</ul> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[123]</a></span>The whole of the tomato mixture may be put in the pan as soon as the +butter is melted.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COLD_FISH_123" id="COLD_FISH_123"></a>COLD FISH</h4> + +<p>Any kind of fish which is good boiled may be served cold, and in summer +is often more acceptable in this way. Bass, trout, halibut, salmon, and +bluefish are recommended. Serve with cold Béarnaise, Mayonnaise, or +Tartare sauce. Garnish with lettuce leaves or water-cresses, and +hard-boiled eggs.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FISH_PUDDING_123" id="FISH_PUDDING_123"></a>FISH PUDDING</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 pound or pint boiled halibut.</li> + <li>½ cupful of cream or milk.</li> + <li>1½ tablespoonfuls of butter.</li> + <li>½ tablespoonful of flour.</li> + <li>1½ teaspoonfuls salt.</li> + <li>¼ teaspoonful pepper.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful onion juice.</li> + <li>2 eggs.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Pound the fish in a mortar until it is thoroughly mashed, then rub it +through a purée sieve; season the fish pulp with salt, pepper, and onion +juice. Put the butter into a saucepan when melted, add the flour, and +cook for a few minutes, then add slowly the cream or milk, stirring +constantly until well scalded; then add the fish pulp, take from the +fire, add the beaten eggs, and mix thoroughly.</p> + +<p>Butter well a border or ring mold holding a pint or little more; put in +the mixture, pressing it well against the sides to remove any air +bubbles. Cover the mold with a greased paper, and set in a pan of warm +water covering one half the mold. Place in moderate oven for thirty +minutes, and do not let the water boil. Place the form of fish on a hot +dish, fill the center with boiled potato balls (see page <a href="#POTATO_BALLS_203">203</a>), pour over +the potato balls some Béchamel or some white sauce, sprinkle chopped +parsley over the top. Serve with the fish a generous amount of Béchamel +or of white sauce. This is a very good dish.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FISH_TIMBALE_123" id="FISH_TIMBALE_123"></a>FISH TIMBALE</h4> + +<p>Cut one pound of very fresh white uncooked fish into small pieces, put +it in a mortar, and pound until the fiber is well sep<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[124]</a></span>arated from the +meat, then press it through a purée sieve. To every cupful of fish pulp +add one tablespoonful of bread crumbs soaked in milk or cream until soft +and then pressed through a sieve; add also the beaten yolk of one egg, +ten drops of onion juice, one teaspoonful of salt, one quarter +teaspoonful of pepper, and a dash of nutmeg. Beat all well together and +for some time, to make it light; then for every cupful of pulp beat in +lightly the whites of two eggs whipped very stiff. Put the mixture into +a well buttered mold, filling it only three quarters full, set it into a +pan of warm water, covering three quarters of the mold, cover the mold +with a greased paper, and place in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. +Do not let the water boil. Turn the timbale on to a hot dish, and pour +around, but not over it, a Béchamel or a tomato sauce. This is a very +delicate fish dish, and is particularly good when made of shad.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FISH_DISH_FOR_A_PINK_LUNCHEON_124" id="FISH_DISH_FOR_A_PINK_LUNCHEON_124"></a>FISH DISH FOR A PINK LUNCHEON</h4> + +<p>Cut halibut or any firm white fish into cutlets three quarters of an +inch thick, two inches wide, and three inches long. Dredge with salt, +pepper, and paprica. Lay them in a pan so they do not touch, cover with +salted water, cover the pan, and let them steam in the oven for ten or +fifteen minutes until cooked, but remove while they are still firm +enough to retain shape. Pound the trimmings of the fish in a mortar, +pass it through a sieve, and to one half cupful of the fish pulp add a +thickening made as follows: put a dessert-spoonful of butter in a +saucepan on the fire; when it is melted add a dessert-spoonful of flour, +cook for a minute without coloring, add three tablespoonfuls of cream or +milk, a quarter teaspoonful of salt and a dash of pepper, remove it from +the fire. Stir in the half cupful of fish pulp and one beaten egg; color +it a delicate pink with a few drops of cochineal, beat the whole until +light, and spread the cutlets of fish with this mixture one quarter inch +thick; smooth it carefully on top and sides with a wet knife. Place the +pieces in a pan, cover, set it into another pan containing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[125]</a></span> hot water, +and let steam in the oven for ten or fifteen minutes. Range the pieces +standing on end around a socle of rice or hominy (see page <a href="#SOCLES_326">326</a>); mask +the top of the socle with prawns, or with parsley, or with water +cresses, and a few pink roses or pink carnations. Serve with Hollandaise +sauce, colored green or pink.</p> + +<p>The pink cutlets may be garnished with capers, or with a thin slice of +pickle cut into fancy shape with cutter.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 420px;"> +<a name="illus-124-f-2" id="illus-124-f-2" href="images/illus-124-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-124-f-2.jpg" width="420" height="201" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">FISH STEAKS SAUTÉD OR BOILED, GARNISHED WITH POTATO +BALLS, WATER-CRESS, AND LEMON.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 421px;"> +<a name="illus-124-f-3" id="illus-124-f-3" href="images/illus-124-f-3-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-124-f-3.jpg" width="421" height="195" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">CREAMED FISH IN SHELLS.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ROLLED_FILLETS_OF_FLOUNDER_125" id="ROLLED_FILLETS_OF_FLOUNDER_125"></a>ROLLED FILLETS OF FLOUNDER</h4> + +<p>Select flounders of uniform size, and large enough to make two strips +about two and a half inches wide on each side, each fish giving four +fillets. Marinate them, or else dredge with salt and pepper, and dip +into butter. Roll them, beginning at the broad end, and fasten with a +wooden <a name="corr12" id="corr12"></a>tooth-pick. Egg and bread-crumb them, and fry in hot fat for +seven minutes. Fry only four at a time, that the fat may not be too much +cooled when they go in. Remove the skewer carefully, and serve with +rémoulade, Tartare, or tomato sauce.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 420px;"> +<a name="illus-124-f-1" id="illus-124-f-1" href="images/illus-124-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-124-f-1.jpg" width="420" height="200" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">TURBANS, OR ROLLED FILLETS OF FISH. (SEE PAGE <a href="#ROLLED_FILLETS_OF_FLOUNDER_125">125</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SHAD_125" id="SHAD_125"></a>SHAD</h4> + +<p>Shad may be broiled, and spread with maître d’hôtel sauce; stuffed and +baked, and served with brown sauce; or it may be boiled and served with +Hollandaise, Béchamel, or egg sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PLANKED_SHAD_125" id="PLANKED_SHAD_125"></a>PLANKED SHAD</h4> + +<p>Have a hardwood board one and a half or two inches thick. Split the shad +as for broiling, place it on the board with the skin side down, and +fasten with a few tacks; place the board before the fire, and roast +until done; rub it from time to time with a little butter. The plank +should be well-seasoned, and be heated before placing the shad on it, or +it will impart the flavor of the wood to the fish.</p> + +<p>A substitute for this mode of cooking is to put into a baking-pan a +tablespoonful of drippings; when very hot lay in the shad<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[126]</a></span> with the skin +side up, place it under the coals, and when the skin is puffed and +blistered it is done. Turn it onto a hot dish, dredge with salt and +pepper, cover with bits of butter, and serve with quarters of lemon.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BROILED_SHAD_ROE_126" id="BROILED_SHAD_ROE_126"></a>BROILED SHAD ROE</h4> + +<p>Wash and dry the roe with care not to break the skin, place it on a well +greased broiler, and rub it with butter once or twice during the time of +broiling; cook to a nice brown, place it on a hot dish, and cover with a +maître d’hôtel sauce.</p> + +<p>Garnish the dish with a wreath of water cresses. This makes a good fish +course for luncheon. Shad roe may also be cooked in a sauté-pan, using +one half butter and one half drippings or lard.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SHAD_ROE_CROQUETTES_1_126" id="SHAD_ROE_CROQUETTES_1_126"></a>SHAD ROE CROQUETTES, NO. 1</h4> + +<p>Put the roes from two fishes into boiling salted water, and simmer for +fifteen minutes; when cool, remove the skin, and mash them with a fork, +so the little eggs will be separated but not broken: scald one cupful of +cream or milk, and stir into it one tablespoonful of butter and two +tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed together. Take the paste on a spoon, and +stir it in the cream until dissolved. Remove from the fire, and add the +beaten yolks of two eggs and the seasoning—one tablespoonful of chopped +parsley, juice of one half a lemon, dash of nutmeg, salt, pepper, and +cayenne to taste. Place again on the fire, and stir until the sauce is +thickened; then add the mashed shad roe, pour the mixture on a dish, and +set away to cool for several hours. Form it into small croquettes, egg +and bread-crumb them, using crumbs grated from the loaf; fry in hot fat +until an amber color. Dress on a folded napkin, garnish with parsley, +and serve with Mayonnaise, Tartare, or Béarnaise sauce.</p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SHAD_ROE_CROQUETTES_2_126" id="SHAD_ROE_CROQUETTES_2_126"></a>SHAD ROE CROQUETTES, NO. 2</h4> + +<p>Put shad roes into salted boiling water, and simmer for fifteen minutes; +remove with care not to break the skin, and place in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[127]</a></span> cold water; when +cold, dry them, and with a sharp knife cut them into pieces two inches +thick; dredge them with salt, pepper, and lemon juice, dip them in +beaten egg, roll in grated white bread crumbs, place in a wire basket, +and fry in hot fat. Dress on a napkin, and serve with Tartare or +Béarnaise sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SALT_MACKEREL_127" id="SALT_MACKEREL_127"></a>SALT MACKEREL</h4> + +<p>Soak the mackerel for twelve hours or more, with the skin side up, and +change the water several times. Simmer it for fifteen or twenty minutes; +and, if convenient, have in the water one teaspoonful of vinegar, one +bay-leaf, one slice of onion, and a sprig of parsley. When tender, place +carefully on a hot dish, and pour over it a cream sauce; or the soaked +fish may be broiled, and spread with butter, pepper, lemon juice, and +chopped parsley.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CREAMED_MACKEREL_127" id="CREAMED_MACKEREL_127"></a>CREAMED MACKEREL</h4> + +<p>Soak the mackerel for twenty-four hours, then lay it in a shallow +stew-pan, and cover with milk or cream. Simmer for fifteen minutes. +Remove the fish carefully, and place it on a hot dish. Add to the milk +or cream in the stew-pan one tablespoonful each of butter and flour +rubbed together. Stir until a little thickened, and the flour cooked; +add a little pepper and chopped parsley, and pour the sauce over the +fish.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SALT_CODFISH_127" id="SALT_CODFISH_127"></a>SALT CODFISH</h4> + +<p>Soak the codfish several hours, changing the water three times. Simmer +it for 20 minutes or until it is tender. Take out carefully all the +bones. Make a white sauce of one tablespoonful each of butter and flour, +and one cupful of milk; add to it, off the fire, two beaten yolks. +Return to the fire, and stir in one cupful of shredded codfish. Taste to +see if it needs seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve it on slices of +toast, or place it in center of dish, and surround it with triangular +croûtons.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[128]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CLUB_HOUSE_FISH_BALLS_128" id="CLUB_HOUSE_FISH_BALLS_128"></a>CLUB HOUSE FISH BALLS</h4> + +<p>Boil the quantity of codfish that will be needed, changing the water +once, that it may not be too salt. While the fish is hot, pick it very +fine, so that it is feathery; it cannot be done fine enough with a fork, +and should be picked by hand. At the same time have hot boiled potatoes +ready. Mash them thoroughly, and make them creamy with milk and a +good-sized lump of butter. To three cupfuls of the mashed potatoes take +one and one half cupfuls of fish. The fish should not be packed down. +Beat one egg lightly, and stir into the other ingredients; season to +taste. Beat the mixture well together and until light, then mold it into +small balls, handling lightly, and before frying, roll the balls in +flour. Fry them in smoking hot fat until a golden color.<a name="FNanchor_128-1_7" id="FNanchor_128-1_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_128-1_7" class="fnanchor">128-*</a></p> + + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BROILED_SARDINES_ON_TOAST_128" id="BROILED_SARDINES_ON_TOAST_128"></a>BROILED SARDINES ON TOAST</h4> + +<p>Drain sardines from the can. Lay them on a broiler over hot coals for +two minutes on each side. Have ready hot toast cut the right size to +hold three of the fish. Arrange them neatly on the toast, and moisten +with a little heated oil from the can.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRESH_FISH_BALLS_128" id="FRESH_FISH_BALLS_128"></a>FRESH FISH BALLS</h4> + +<p>To one cupful of flaked boiled fish add a cream sauce made of one +tablespoonful of butter, one tablespoonful of flour, and one half cupful +of milk.</p> + +<p>Let the sauce be very stiff, so it leaves the sides of the pan; mix it +well with the fish, and when hot add two beaten eggs, pepper, and salt. +Drop the mixture, which should be like thick batter, from a spoon into +very hot fat.</p> + +<p>It will puff, and be very light.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SALMON_128" id="SALMON_128"></a>SALMON</h4> + +<p>Put salmon into hot water to preserve its color, and simmer in +acidulated water or in court bouillon, as is the rule for all fish. The +middle cuts are preferable where a small quantity only is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[129]</a></span> needed. The +head piece makes a pretty cut, but is not profitable to buy, as the head +adds materially to the weight. Where a large fish is to be used for a +supper or cold dish, it may be cut in halves or sections (see page <a href="#To_boil_a_fish_whole_114">114</a>) +if too large for the fish kettle. Cold salmon can be elaborately +garnished with aspic, colored mayonnaise, shrimps, gherkins, capers, +etc.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CANNED_SALMON_129" id="CANNED_SALMON_129"></a>CANNED SALMON</h4> + +<p>The canned salmon is very good, and makes a palatable emergency dish. It +can be prepared quickly, as the fish is already cooked. It may be +broiled, and spread with maître d’hôtel butter, or it can be served on +toast with cream dressing; or a white sauce can be made, and the fish +put in it to heat; or the fish may be heated in water, and served as +cutlets with Béarnaise sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SALMON_CUTLETS_129" id="SALMON_CUTLETS_129"></a>SALMON CUTLETS</h4> + +<p>Prepare salmon cutlets the same as boiled halibut steaks (page <a href="#BOILED_HALIBUT_STEAKS_119">119</a>), or +cut them in half heart or chop shapes, roll them in egg and bread +crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Arrange them in a circle overlapping one +another, and serve with Béarnaise, Hollandaise or Tartare sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BROILED_SLICES_OF_SALMON_129" id="BROILED_SLICES_OF_SALMON_129"></a>BROILED SLICES OF SALMON</h4> + +<p>Marinate the slices for one hour. Broil on both sides; baste with +butter, so that they will not brown. Place them on a hot dish, and +sprinkle with salt, pepper, lemon juice, and chopped parsley. Serve with +them a Béarnaise sauce or quarters of lemon.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SLICES_OF_SALMON_WITH_MAYONNAISE_129" id="SLICES_OF_SALMON_WITH_MAYONNAISE_129"></a>SLICES OF SALMON WITH MAYONNAISE</h4> + +<p>Simmer two slices of salmon in court bouillon until done; remove +carefully so as not to break them. When perfectly cold cover one side of +them with a smooth layer of mayonnaise made with jelly (see page <a href="#JELLY_MAYONNAISE_290">290</a>), +and colored a delicate green. Arrange a row of sliced gherkins or of +capers around the edge.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[130]</a></span> Place a wedge-shaped socle of bread in the +middle of a dish, and fasten it to the dish with white of egg, so that +it will be firm; rest the slices against it; conceal the side of socle +with garnish of fresh lettuce leaves. Place a bunch of parsley or +water-cress or if convenient a bouquet of nasturtium blossoms, in the +hollow center of the fish. Use hard-boiled eggs cut in halves for +further garnishing.</p> + +<p>This makes a handsome supper dish for card or theater party. It should +be kept in a cool place until ready to serve.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FILLETS_OF_SALMON_FOR_GREEN_LUNCHEON_130" id="FILLETS_OF_SALMON_FOR_GREEN_LUNCHEON_130"></a>FILLETS OF SALMON FOR GREEN LUNCHEON</h4> + +<p>Cut salmon into pieces three quarters of an inch thick and two and a +half inches square, trim them carefully, and flatten with heavy knife so +they will be uniform. Lay them in a baking-pan so they do not touch, +cover them with salted water, and simmer them in the oven for about +twenty minutes, or until well cooked, but still firm. Take them out +carefully, skin and dry them, and when cold marinate them. Make a jelly +mayonnaise (see page <a href="#JELLY_MAYONNAISE_290">290</a>), using a little tarragon vinegar; color it +green; cover the fillets with the green mayonnaise while it is soft +enough to become perfectly smooth, and set them away in a cool, dry +place. When ready to serve place the fillets on the top of a socle made +of hominy, and ornamented on the sides with green beans and balls of +carrot, or green peas (see illustration page <a name="corr13" id="corr13"></a><a href="#illus-322-f-1">322</a>). Arrange a <a name="corr14" id="corr14"></a>macédoine +of vegetables (see page <a href="#MACEDOINE_OF_VEGETABLES_216">216</a>) around the base of the socle. Serve with it +a mayonnaise dressing. One pound of salmon will cut into nine cutlets.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CROUSTADE_OF_SHRIMPS_130" id="CROUSTADE_OF_SHRIMPS_130"></a>CROUSTADE OF SHRIMPS</h4> + +<p>Make a sauce the same as for lobster filling (see page <a href="#LOBSTER_FILLING_FOR_PATTIES_140">140</a>), and +substitute potted shrimp meat for the lobster. Serve in croustades of +rice. This is a good luncheon dish, and easily prepared.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[131]</a></span></p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="SHELL-FISH_LOBSTERS_CRABS_131" id="SHELL-FISH_LOBSTERS_CRABS_131"></a>SHELL-FISH, LOBSTERS, CRABS</h3> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="OYSTERS_131" id="OYSTERS_131"></a>OYSTERS</h4> + +<div class="explanations"> +<p>Oysters are out of season during the months of May, June, July, and +August. The rule is to use oysters only in the months that have the +letter r in the name.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Raw_oysters_131" id="Raw_oysters_131"></a><b>How to serve on half-shell.</b></span> When served raw, the small varieties are the best. They are left on the +deep half of the shell. Six are allowed for each person. They should be +arranged regularly on the plate around a little ice broken fine, the +valve side toward the center of plate, and in the center of the circle a +quarter of a lemon. A few sprigs of parsley or cress under the lemon +makes a pretty garnish. Black and red pepper are served with raw +oysters, and also very thin slices of buttered brown bread.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Precaution_131" id="Precaution_131"></a><b>Precaution.</b></span> Oysters served raw should be very fresh. It is therefore not desirable +to use them in this way when one lives inland. To prevent the chance of +any bits of shell getting into oyster dishes, they should be washed; +each oyster being taken on a fork and dipped into water. As they are +largely composed of water, this will not injure their flavor. The juice +should be strained through a coarse sieve.</p> + +<p>Cracker crumbs are better than bread crumbs for mixing with oysters.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Cooking_131" id="Cooking_131"></a><b>Cooking.</b></span> Oysters require very little cooking. They are put over the fire in their +own liquor, and removed the moment they are plump or the gills are +curled. More cooking than this makes them tough.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[132]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRIED_OYSTERS_132" id="FRIED_OYSTERS_132"></a>FRIED OYSTERS</h4> + +<p>Drain the oysters. Roll each one first in cracker crumbs, then in egg +mixed with a little milk, and seasoned with pepper and salt, then again +in the cracker crumbs. Use first the crumbs, as the egg will not +otherwise adhere well to the oyster. Place them in a wire basket, and +immerse in smoking hot fat. As soon as they assume a light-amber color +drain, and serve immediately.</p> + +<p>Oysters should not be fried until the moment of serving, for they are +quickly cooked and it is essential to have them hot.</p> + +<p>Pickles, chow-chow, horse-radish, cold-slaw, or celery salad are served +with fried oysters, and may be used as a garnish or be served +separately.</p> +</div> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="OYSTERS_A_LA_VILLEROI_132" id="OYSTERS_A_LA_VILLEROI_132"></a>OYSTERS À LA VILLEROI</h4> + +<p>Prepare a <i>Villeroi</i> sauce (see page <a href="#VILLEROI_280">280</a>). Heat the oysters in their own +liquor until plump, then remove and wipe them dry. Place them on a pan +turned bottom side up, leaving a space around each one. With a spoon +cover each oyster with the thick sauce, and set them away for several +hours to cool and harden; then trim them to good shape. Take one at a +time on a broad knife or spatula, and, holding it over a dish containing +beaten egg, coat it well with egg; then cover it with fresh bread crumbs +and draw the coating around the whole oyster. Place the rolled oysters +in a wire basket, and immerse in hot fat until an amber color. Dress +them on a folded napkin, and serve with a Béchamel sauce, or with the +same sauce with which they are coated, diluted with stock or oyster +juice. A little chopped truffle and mushrooms improve the sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BROILED_OYSTERS_132" id="BROILED_OYSTERS_132"></a>BROILED OYSTERS</h4> + +<p>Dry the oysters. Heat the broiler well, and grease it by rubbing it with +a slice of salt pork or with suet. Dip the oysters into melted butter, +or into oil, and lay them on the broiler.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[133]</a></span> Broil them on both sides for +a few minutes over bright coals. Have ready some toast cut into uniform +shapes and moistened with oyster juice. On each croûton place three or +four oysters, and pour over them a little melted maître d’hôtel sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PANNED_OYSTERS_133" id="PANNED_OYSTERS_133"></a>PANNED OYSTERS</h4> + +<p>Heat a baking-pan very hot. Put into it a tablespoonful of butter; then +the oysters, which have been well drained. Let them cook in hot oven +until browned. Have ready some toast cut into even pieces; soften them +with some liquor from the pan; place three or four oysters on each +piece, and pour over them the liquor from the pan, which should be +reduced if too watery. Sprinkle with a little parsley chopped very fine.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ROASTED_OYSTERS_133" id="ROASTED_OYSTERS_133"></a>ROASTED OYSTERS</h4> + +<p>Wash the shells well with a brush and cold water. Place them in a pan +with the deep half of shell down. Put them into a hot oven, and bake +until the shell opens. Remove the top shell carefully so as not to lose +the liquor. Arrange them on plates, and on each oyster place a piece of +butter and a little pepper and salt. If roasted too long the oysters +will be tough.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="OYSTERS_A_LA_POULETTE_133" id="OYSTERS_A_LA_POULETTE_133"></a>OYSTERS À LA POULETTE</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>25 oysters.</li> + <li>1 cupful of oyster juice.</li> + <li>1 cupful of milk or cream.</li> + <li>Yolks of 3 eggs.</li> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls of butter.</li> + <li>4 tablespoonfuls of flour.</li> + <li>1 scant teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>1 saltspoonful of pepper.</li> + <li>Dash of cayenne pepper.</li> + <li>Dash of nutmeg.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Scald the oysters in their liquor until plump. Put into a saucepan two +tablespoonfuls of butter; when melted stir in carefully the flour, and +cook, but not brown. Stir in slowly the oyster juice; when perfectly +smooth add the milk or cream and the seasoning. Take it off the fire, +and when a little cooled stir in the beaten yolks. Place again on the +fire, and stir until thickened; then pour it over the oysters on a hot +dish. Place<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[134]</a></span> a border of triangular-shaped croûtons around the dish, and +serve at once. Do not add the cream and eggs to the sauce until time to +serve, so that there may be no delay, as this dish is not good unless +hot, and if kept standing the sauce will curdle. The sauce should be of +the consistency of cream.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SCALLOPED_OYSTERS_134" id="SCALLOPED_OYSTERS_134"></a>SCALLOPED OYSTERS</h4> + +<p>Place in a shallow baking-dish a layer of oysters; over this spread a +layer of bread or cracker crumbs; sprinkle it with salt, pepper, and +bits of butter; alternate the layers until the dish is full, having +crumbs on top, well dotted with bits of butter. Pour over the whole +enough oyster juice to moisten it. Bake in a hot oven fifteen or twenty +minutes, or until browned; serve it in the same dish in which it is +baked. Individual scallop-cups or shells may also be used, enough for +one person being placed in each cup.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="OYSTER_FILLING_FOR_PATTIES_134" id="OYSTER_FILLING_FOR_PATTIES_134"></a>OYSTER FILLING FOR PATTIES</h4> + +<p>For one dozen oysters,</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 tablespoonful of butter.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of flour.</li> + <li>1 cupful of milk or cream.</li> + <li>Yolks of 2 eggs.</li> + <li>Dash of cayenne.</li> + <li>Dash of mace.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Scald the oysters in their liquor; drain and cut each one into four +pieces with a silver knife. Put the butter into a saucepan, and when +melted add the flour; cook, but not brown; then add the milk or cream, +and stir until smooth; add the seasoning, and remove from the fire. When +a little cooled add the beaten yolks, stirring vigorously; place again +on the fire, and stir until thickened; then add the pieces of oysters. +The filling should be soft and creamy, and the patty cases should be +heated before the filling is put in.</p> + +<p>This mixture is improved by using an equal quantity of oysters and +mushrooms, either fresh or canned, and should be highly seasoned. It may +be served in bread-boxes (see page <a href="#Boxes_82">82</a>), or in crusts prepared by +removing the crumb from rolls, then<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[135]</a></span> browning them in the oven. Minced +oysters and clams in equal parts, with some of their juice used in +making the sauce, also make a good filling.</p> + +<p>The same mixture may be made into croquettes, in which case two +tablespoonfuls of flour instead of one are used, also a few more +oysters, and the sauce is allowed to become thicker (see croquettes, +page <a href="#CROQUETTES_292">292</a>).</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CLAMS_135" id="CLAMS_135"></a>CLAMS</h4> + +<p>Clams are served raw on the half shell during the months that oysters +are out of season. Little Neck clams are best for this purpose, and the +smaller they are the better. The manner of serving them is the same as +for raw oysters. As many as ten or twelve are allowed for each person.</p> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe"><a name="TO_OPEN_CLAMS_135" id="TO_OPEN_CLAMS_135"></a>TO OPEN CLAMS</h5> + +<p>To remove clams from the shells when wanted for cooking, wash the shells +well with a brush and clear water. Place them in a saucepan or pot with +a very little hot water; cover the pot, and let them steam until the +shells open; strain the liquor through a fine cloth, or let it cool and +settle; then pour it off carefully in order to free it from sand the +shells may have contained.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CREAMED_CLAMS_135" id="CREAMED_CLAMS_135"></a>CREAMED CLAMS</h4> + +<p>Scald the clams in their own liquor. If opened by steaming, they are +sufficiently cooked. Chop them into fine dice and measure. To each +cupful of chopped clams add one cupful of thick cream sauce. For one +cupful of sauce put into a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter; when +melted, stir in one tablespoonful of flour; cook, but not brown it; then +add slowly one half cupful of clam liquor and one half cupful of milk or +cream; season with pepper, and salt if necessary. Let it cook until a +smooth, thick cream, stirring all the time; add the clams only just +before serving. Pour the mixture over small pieces of toast laid on the +bottom of the dish.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[136]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ROASTED_CLAMS_136" id="ROASTED_CLAMS_136"></a>ROASTED CLAMS</h4> + +<p>Clams are roasted in the same manner as oysters (see page <a href="#ROASTED_OYSTERS_133">133</a>).</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CLAM_FRITTERS_136" id="CLAM_FRITTERS_136"></a>CLAM FRITTERS</h4> + +<p>Mix chopped clams with fritter batter (see page <a href="#FRITTER_BATTER_426">426</a>), using clam liquor +instead of water in making the batter, and have the batter quite thick. +Drop the mixture from a tablespoon into hot fat, and fry until an amber +color.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SCALLOPS_136" id="SCALLOPS_136"></a>SCALLOPS</h4> + +<p>Scallops are dried with a napkin, then rolled in cracker dust, then in +egg and crumbs, and immersed in hot fat for a minute, or just long +enough to take a light color. Mix salt and pepper with the crumbs.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="LOBSTERS_136" id="LOBSTERS_136"></a>LOBSTERS</h4> + +<p><a name="season_136" id="season_136"></a>Lobsters are in season from March to November. They are in the market +all the year, but during the off months they are light and stringy. +Their size increases with their age; therefore a small, heavy lobster is +better than a large one.</p> + +<p><a name="freshness_136" id="freshness_136"></a>They are unwholesome if boiled after they are dead. If bought already +boiled, their freshness may be judged by the tail, which should be +curled and springy. If it is not curled up, or will not spring back when +straightened, the lobster was dead when boiled, and should be rejected.</p> + +<p><a name="to_kill_lobster_136" id="to_kill_lobster_136"></a>Lobsters may be killed just before being boiled by running a pointed +knife into the back through the joint between the body and tail shells.</p> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe"><a name="TO_BOIL_A_LOBSTER_136" id="TO_BOIL_A_LOBSTER_136"></a>TO BOIL A LOBSTER</h5> + +<p>Have in a kettle enough water to entirely cover the lobster. Before it +becomes very hot take the lobster by the back and put it into the warm +water head first. This smothers instead of scalding it to death, and +seems the most merciful way of killing it. A lobster treated in this way +does not change posi<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[137]</a></span>tion, and seems to have been killed instantly. +Cover the pot. When it boils, add one tablespoonful of salt, and boil +for thirty minutes. It will be tough and stringy if cooked longer.</p> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe"><a name="TO_OPEN_A_LOBSTER_137" id="TO_OPEN_A_LOBSTER_137"></a>TO OPEN A LOBSTER</h5> + +<p>After the lobster is cold, break apart the tail and body; twist off the +claws; remove the body from the shell; shake out the green, fatty +substance and the coral, and save them to mix with the meat. Remove the +stomach, which lies directly under the head, and is called the “lady”; +remove also the woolly gills; break open the body, and take out the +small pieces of meat which lie under the gills; break open the claws and +remove the meat. With scissors or a knife cut the bony membrane on the +inside of the tail; remove the meat in one piece, and open it to remove +the intestine, which runs the entire length of the tail-piece. The +intestine is sometimes without color.</p> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe"><a name="TO_BROIL_A_LOBSTER_137" id="TO_BROIL_A_LOBSTER_137"></a>TO BROIL A LOBSTER</h5> + +<p>With a sharp knife cut quickly down the back, following a line which +runs down the middle of the shell. The fishman will ordinarily do this, +and it is as quick and merciful as any way of killing. The lobster may +be killed, if preferred, by running a knife into the back as directed +above, and then opened with a heavy knife and mallet. Remove the +stomach, or lady, and the intestine. Lay the two pieces on the broiler, +with the shell part down, and broil over a moderate fire for thirty +minutes or longer. Spread a little butter over it when half done, to +keep it moist; spread butter, salt, and pepper over it when done; open +the claws with a nut-cracker or mallet, and serve immediately.</p> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe"><a name="TO_BAKE_A_LOBSTER_137" id="TO_BAKE_A_LOBSTER_137"></a>TO BAKE A LOBSTER</h5> + +<p>Split the lobster open in the same way as for broiling. Remove the +stomach, or lady, and the intestine; lay the two pieces in a baking-pan; +spread over the top of each salt, pepper and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[138]</a></span> butter, and sprinkle with +bread crumbs; bake about forty minutes in a hot oven; during the baking +baste it twice by pouring over it a little melted butter. Baked and +broiled lobsters are considered a great delicacy.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="LOBSTER_FARCI_138" id="LOBSTER_FARCI_138"></a>LOBSTER FARCI</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>2 cupfuls of boiled lobster meat.</li> + <li>1 cupful of milk or cream.</li> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls of butter.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of flour.</li> + <li>Yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs.</li> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of salt.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful chopped parsley.</li> + <li>¼ nutmeg.</li> + <li>Dash of cayenne pepper or of paprica.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Put into a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter; when it bubbles add one +tablespoonful of flour; cook, but not brown; add one cupful of milk +slowly, and stir until smooth; then remove it from the fire; add the +salt, the pepper, the parsley, the yolks mashed fine, and lastly the +lobster meat cut into pieces one half inch square. (Use a silver knife +to cut lobster.) Be careful, in mixing, not to break the meat. Have the +shell from which the meat was taken carefully washed and dried, leaving +on the head; cut out neatly the inside shell of the tail-piece, and fit +the two parts of the shell together. As the shell contracts in cooking, +it is well to trim off a little from the sides of the body shell in +order to leave an opening wide enough to admit a spoon in serving. Put +the meat mixture into the shell. Cover the top with the bread crumbs, +which have been moistened with one tablespoonful of butter. Place it in +the oven for a few minutes to brown. If the meat of two lobsters is +used, the shells of both may be used, or the two tail-shells may be +fitted into one body shell, which will then hold all the meat.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 420px;"> +<a name="illus-130-f-3" id="illus-130-f-3" href="images/illus-130-f-3-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-130-f-3.jpg" width="420" height="197" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">LOBSTER FARCI.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="LOBSTER_CHOPS_138" id="LOBSTER_CHOPS_138"></a>LOBSTER CHOPS</h4> + +<p>The mixture for chops is prepared in the same manner as for farci, +except that the meat is cut a little finer. After it is mixed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[139]</a></span> with +the white sauce, spread it on a platter to cool; when sufficiently cold, +mold into the form of chops. Then dip in egg, roll in fresh bread crumbs +(see croquettes, page <a href="#TO_MOLD_CROQUETTES_293">293</a>), and immerse in hot fat until fried to an +amber color. The chops will mold better if the mixture is left for some +time to harden. The chops may also stand for some hours before being +cooked. Tin forms are made for molding chops, but they are easily shaped +without them if the mixture has stood long enough to stiffen. After they +are fried, make a little opening in the pointed end, and insert a small +claw.</p> + +<p>Serve the chops on a napkin, and garnish with lemon and parsley.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 418px;"> +<a name="illus-138-f-1" id="illus-138-f-1" href="images/illus-138-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-138-f-1.jpg" width="418" height="199" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">LOBSTER CHOPS, SERVED STANDING.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 416px;"> +<a name="illus-138-f-2" id="illus-138-f-2" href="images/illus-138-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-138-f-2.jpg" width="416" height="193" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">LOBSTER CHOPS.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="LOBSTER_A_LA_NEWBURG_139" id="LOBSTER_A_LA_NEWBURG_139"></a>LOBSTER À LA NEWBURG</h4> + +<p>One and a half cupfuls of boiled lobster meat cut into pieces one inch +square.</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 tablespoonful of butter.</li> + <li>¾ cup of Madeira or sherry.</li> + <li>1 cupful of cream.</li> + <li>Yolk of two eggs.</li> + <li>1 truffle chopped.</li> + <li>¼ teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>Dash of cayenne or paprica.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Put the butter in a saucepan; when it has melted add the lobster meat, +the chopped truffle, the salt, and the pepper; cover and let simmer for +five minutes; then add the wine, and cook three minutes longer.</p> + +<p>Have ready two yolks and one cupful of cream well beaten together; add +this to the lobster, shake the saucepan until the mixture is thickened, +and serve immediately. This dish will not keep without curdling, and +should not be put together until just in time to serve. The lobster may +be prepared and kept hot. The rest of the cooking, from the time the +wine goes in, requires but five minutes, so the time can be easily +calculated. If the mixture is stirred the meat will be broken; shaking +the pan mixes it sufficiently. This is a very good dish, and easily +prepared; but it will not be right unless served as soon as it is +cooked. The quantity given is enough for six people. Crab meat may be +used in the same way.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[140]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="LOBSTER_STEW_140" id="LOBSTER_STEW_140"></a>LOBSTER STEW</h4> + +<p>Put into a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter and one teaspoonful of +chopped onion. Before it takes color add one tablespoonful of flour, and +cook, but not brown. Then add slowly one cupful of water in which the +lobster was boiled, one cupful of milk, and one cupful of good stock. +Add the lobster meat, and when it has become thoroughly hot remove the +meat and place it on the dish on which it is to be served, arranging it +in the shape of a lobster as far as possible. Cut the tail-piece into +thick slices, without changing its position. Season the sauce with salt, +pepper and cayenne, and pour it over the meat. Place around the edges +triangular croûtons, and garnish with head, small claws, and tail.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="LOBSTER_FILLING_FOR_PATTIES_140" id="LOBSTER_FILLING_FOR_PATTIES_140"></a>LOBSTER FILLING FOR PATTIES</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 cupful of lobster meat cut into dice.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of butter.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of flour.</li> + <li>1 cupful of milk.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>¼ teaspoonful of pepper.</li> + <li>Dash of cayenne.</li> + <li>2 yolks.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Put the butter into a saucepan; when melted add the flour, and cook a +few minutes, but not brown; add slowly the milk or cream, and stir until +perfectly smooth. To this white sauce add the two yolks beaten, and stir +them in off the fire; then add the meat, season, and replace on the fire +until sufficiently thickened. Mix carefully with a wooden spoon, so as +not to break the meat. The filling should be very creamy. The salpicon +given below may be used for filling, if preferred.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SALPICON_OF_LOBSTER_140" id="SALPICON_OF_LOBSTER_140"></a>SALPICON OF LOBSTER</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 tablespoonful of lobster meat cut into dice.</li> + <li>6 mushrooms.</li> + <li>1 truffle.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of butter.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of flour.</li> + <li>¼ cupful of white stock.</li> + <li>¼ cupful of cream.</li> + <li>Salt and cayenne.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Put one level tablespoonful of butter into a saucepan, and when melted +add one level tablespoonful of flour; cook, but not<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[141]</a></span> brown; add slowly +the stock, and stir until perfectly smooth; then add the cream; after it +begins to thicken add the lobster meat, the chopped truffle, and the +mushrooms cut into dice. Season highly with salt and cayenne or paprica. +Let simmer for five minutes. This must be creamy, but not too soft. It +can be served as filling for patties or potato croustades, or may be +served in paper boxes. This amount makes about a cupful of salpicon, +which is enough for six patties.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CRABS_141" id="CRABS_141"></a>CRABS</h4> + +<p>Crabs are in season during the months of May, June, July, and August. +They may be had at other times, but are then light and stringy. +Soft-shell crabs are best in July and August. Like lobsters, crabs must +be bought while alive, and boiled in the same way. Put them head first +into hot water. After five minutes add one tablespoonful of salt, and +boil for thirty minutes.</p> + +<p>When cold remove the shells, the stomach, which is just under the head, +the gills, and the intestine. Take out the meat carefully.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="DEVILED_CRABS_141" id="DEVILED_CRABS_141"></a>DEVILED CRABS</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>12 crabs.</li> + <li>1 cupful of cream or milk.</li> + <li>1½ tablespoonfuls of butter.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of flour.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful chopped parsley.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful salt.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful paprica or dash of cayenne.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of lemon juice.</li> + <li>Yolks of 4 hard-boiled eggs.</li> +</ul> + +<p>To obtain enough meat to fill nine shells, use twelve crabs. After they +are boiled remove the meat with care, breaking it as little as possible.</p> + +<p>Put into a double boiler the cream; when it is scalded add to it the +flour and butter, which have been rubbed together; stir until smooth and +thickened; then add the mashed yolks, the seasoning, and the crab meat. +Mix well together, and taste to see if more seasoning is needed. Deviled +crabs need to be highly seasoned. A little mustard may be used, if +desired. Have the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[142]</a></span> shells carefully washed and dried, and fill them with +the mixture, rounding it well on top, and pressing it close to the edges +of the shells, so that in frying none of the fat may enter. Smooth the +top, and let stand until cold. Beat one egg with one tablespoonful of +water, and, holding a shell over this, baste it with the egg, letting it +run over the whole top, including the shell; then sprinkle with white +bread crumbs. Put two at a time into a frying-basket, and immerse in +very hot fat. It will take but a minute to color them. They may be +browned in the oven, if preferred, in which case the egging is omitted, +and a few pieces of butter are placed on top of the crumbs.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STUFFED_CRABS_142" id="STUFFED_CRABS_142"></a>STUFFED CRABS WITH MUSHROOMS</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>Meat of 6 crabs.</li> + <li>Mushrooms cut into dice the same quantity as of the crab meat.</li> + <li>1 cupful of cream or milk.</li> + <li>1 slice of onion.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of butter.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of flour.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of paprica, or dash of cayenne.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of lemon juice.</li> + <li>Yolks of 4 hard-boiled eggs.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Put into a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter, and one slice of onion +chopped fine; before it becomes brown, add one tablespoonful of flour; +cook, but not brown; and add slowly one cupful of milk or cream. Stir +until smooth and thickened; then add the mashed yolks, the seasoning, +the crab meat, and the chopped mushrooms. This mixture should not be +very soft. Fill the shells with it, and finish the same as deviled +crabs.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SOFT-SHELL_CRABS_142" id="SOFT-SHELL_CRABS_142"></a>SOFT-SHELL CRABS</h4> + +<p>Wash the crabs carefully; lift up the flap, and remove the sand-bag +(stomach), gills, and intestine; dry them well, and dredge with salt and +pepper. Roll in flour, and sauté them in butter. Have a generous amount +of butter in the frying-pan, and sauté them on both sides; when done +place them on a hot dish. To the butter in the frying-pan add a little +lemon juice.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[143]</a></span> Strain this over the crabs, and sprinkle them with parsley +chopped very fine.</p> + +<p>Soft-shell crabs may also be fried, in which case they are first dipped +in milk, then covered with fine bread-crumbs, and immersed in hot fat.</p> + +<p>They may also be broiled over a slow fire, and when done covered with +maître d’hôtel sauce. The preferable way of cooking them is by the +method first given.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="OYSTER-CRABS_143" id="OYSTER-CRABS_143"></a>OYSTER-CRABS</h4> + +<p>After they are carefully washed and dried, dip them in milk, then roll +them in flour, and fry them for one minute in hot fat.</p> + +<p>Serve them on a hot napkin with quarters of lemon, or they may be served +in fontage cups, or in paper boxes, or in shells. (See also +oyster-crabs, page <a href="#OYSTER-CRABS_310">310</a>.)</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CRABS_ST_LAURENT_143" id="CRABS_ST_LAURENT_143"></a>CRABS ST. LAURENT</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 cupful of boiled crab meat (6 crabs).</li> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls grated Parmesan cheese.</li> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls white wine.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of butter.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of flour.</li> + <li>½ cupful stock.</li> + <li>½ cupful cream or milk.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful salt.</li> + <li>¼ teaspoonful pepper.</li> + <li>Dash of cayenne.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Put into a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter; when melted add the +flour; cook, but not brown; add slowly the stock, and stir until +perfectly smooth; then add the cream, and when thickened, add the salt +and pepper, then the crab meat and the cheese; simmer for a few minutes, +and add the wine; spread this mixture over pieces of buttered toast cut +in squares or circles; sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese, and place +on each piece a small bit of butter; set in the oven for three minutes; +serve very hot on a napkin garnished with parsley. This dish may be +prepared in a chafing-dish, in which case the mixture must be placed on +the toast and served directly from the chafing-dish.</p> + +<p>Boiled halibut may be substituted for the crab meat.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[144]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CRAB_STEW_144" id="CRAB_STEW_144"></a>CRAB STEW</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>½ dozen crabs.</li> + <li>1 quart milk.</li> + <li>Yolks of 4 eggs boiled hard.</li> + <li>½ lemon.</li> + <li>1 nutmeg.</li> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls butter.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful flour.</li> + <li>1 dessert spoonful mustard.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful salt.</li> + <li>¼ teaspoonful red pepper.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Mash the hard-boiled yolks fine, and rub into them the butter, flour and +mustard.</p> + +<p>Put the milk into a double boiler; when it is scalded stir in the +mixture of egg, etc.; season, and just before serving stir in the crab +meat, and add one cupful of sherry. Place in bottom of a deep dish a few +thin slices of lemon and turn the stew over them.</p> + + +<div class="footnotes"> +<p><a name="Footnote_128-1_7" id="Footnote_128-1_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_128-1_7"><span class="label">128-*</span></a> This mixture can be spread on a pan, then marked into +squares, and baked in the oven. This method makes it a more wholesome +dish for those who are unable to eat fried preparations.—M. R.</p></div> + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[145]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="Chapter_IV" id="Chapter_IV"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter IV</span><br /> +<br /> +MEATS</h2> + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Slow_cooking_145" id="Slow_cooking_145"></a><b>Slow cooking.</b></span> <span class="smcap">Long,</span> slow cooking breaks down the fiber of meat, and so makes +it more tender. Whatever method of cooking is employed, this +fact should be remembered. Many of the tough pieces are the +most nutritious ones, and can by slow cooking be made as +acceptable as the more expensive cuts.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Juices_145" id="Juices_145"></a><b>Juices.</b></span> In order to shut in the juices, meat should at first be +subjected to a high degree of heat for a short time. A crust +or case will then be formed on the outside by the coagulation +of the albumen, after which the heat should be lowered, and +the cooking proceed slowly. The same rule holds for baking, +where the oven must be very hot for the first few minutes +only; for boiling, where the water must be boiling and covered +for a time, and then placed where it will simmer only; for +broiling, where the meat must be placed close to the coals at +first, then held farther away.</p> + +<p>Tough meats are better boiled, because a lower degree of +heat can be maintained and slower cooking insured.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Degree_of_cooking_145" id="Degree_of_cooking_145"></a><b>Degree of cooking.</b></span> Dark meats should be served underdone or red; the white +meats thoroughly cooked, but not dried.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Dry meats.</b></span> Dry meats are improved by being larded.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Cleaning_145" id="Cleaning_145"></a><b>Cleaning.</b></span> Clean meat by wiping it with a wet cloth, but do not put it +in water.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="corr15" id="corr15"></a><a name="Seasoning_145" id="Seasoning_145"></a><b>Seasoning.</b></span> Salt and pepper draw out the juices; therefore do not put +them on meat before cooking, or until after<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[146]</a></span> the meat is +seared, unless the meat is to be covered at once with egg +and crumbs, or with flour.</p> + +<p><a name="piercing_146" id="piercing_146"></a>Do not pierce the meat with a fork while cooking, as it +makes an outlet for the juices. If necessary to turn it, use +two spoons.</p></div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TO_ROAST_BEEF_146" id="TO_ROAST_BEEF_146"></a>TO ROAST BEEF</h4> + +<p>Time for cooking rib roast rare eight to ten minutes per pound; time for +cooking rolled roast rare, ten to twelve minutes per pound.</p> + +<p>To roast beef on a spit before the fire is unquestionably the best +method of cooking it; but as few kitchens are equipped for roasting +meats, baking them in the oven is generally practised, and has come to +be called roasting. Beef should be well streaked with fat, and have a +bright-red color. Place the meat to be baked on a rack which will raise +it a little above the bottom of the pan. Dredge the whole, top and +sides, with flour. Place in a corner of the pan a half teaspoonful of +salt and a quarter teaspoonful of pepper. Do not let them touch the raw +meat, as they draw out the juices. Put into the pan also two +tablespoonfuls of drippings. Place it in a very hot oven for fifteen or +twenty minutes, or until the meat is browned; then shut off the drafts +and lower the temperature of the oven, and cook slowly until done; baste +frequently; do not put water in the pan, as it makes steam, and prevents +browning. A roast has a better appearance if the ribs are not too long. +They may be cut off and reserved for the soup pot, or broken and doubled +under.</p> + +<p>Serve it standing on the ribs, and cut the slices in line with the ribs.</p> + +<p><a name="Rolled_roast_beef_146" id="Rolled_roast_beef_146"></a>For a rolled roast, remove the bones, roll it, and tie securely into +good shape; when cooked, cut the cords and run through a fancy skewer +holding at the head a slice of lemon or piece of carrot cut into +ornamental shape. This piece of beef stands on the dish like a cylinder, +and should be cut across horizontally.</p> + +<p>If the beef is cooked as directed it will have one quarter of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[147]</a></span> an inch +of seared meat; the rest will be of a uniform red color all through. If +cooked in too hot an oven the center will be raw, while an inch or two +of the outside will be much overdone, hard, and tasteless. (See +illustration facing page <a href="#illus-152-f-1">152</a>.)</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 425px;"> +<a name="illus-152-f-1" id="illus-152-f-1" href="images/illus-152-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-152-f-1.jpg" width="425" height="202" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">ROLLED RIB ROAST OF BEEF GARNISHED WITH POTATOES ROASTED +IN SAME DISH WITH THE BEEF. FANCY SKEWER GARNISHED WITH SLICES OF TURNIP +AND CARROT, RUN INTO THE SIDE TO HOLD IT TOGETHER. (SEE PAGE <a href="#TO_ROAST_BEEF_146">146</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="YORKSHIRE_PUDDING_147" id="YORKSHIRE_PUDDING_147"></a>YORKSHIRE PUDDING</h4> + +<p>Put two cupfuls of flour into a bowl, and mix in one half a teaspoonful +of salt. Beat up three eggs, and stir them into the flour; then add two +cupfuls of milk. Stir until the mixture is smooth, then turn it into a +pan containing a little of the drippings from the roast beef. Let the +batter be only one inch deep in the pan. Bake thirty to forty minutes. +Cut the pudding in squares, and place it around the roast beef.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ROUND_OF_BEEF_147" id="ROUND_OF_BEEF_147"></a>ROUND OF BEEF</h4> + +<p>Ten to twelve minutes per pound.</p> + +<p>The cut from the upper side of the round is a good roasting piece. It +should be cooked very slowly after it is browned in order to make it +tender. The under side of the round should be cooked <i>à la mode</i>, or +braised.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BRAISED_BEEF_147" id="BRAISED_BEEF_147"></a>BRAISED BEEF</h4> + +<p>Take one half cupful of salt pork, one half cupful each of carrot, +turnip, onion, and celery, all cut into dice. Mix them together and +spread them on a baking pan, reserving one half cupful for the top of +the meat. On the bed of vegetables place a piece of beef cut from the +upper or under side of the round, weighing five or six pounds. Dredge it +with flour. Place it in hot oven to brown for twenty to twenty-five +minutes. Then add two cupfuls of stock or water; a bouquet of herbs, +consisting of parsley, six peppercorns, three cloves, one bay-leaf; +spread the one half cupful of vegetables over the meat; add a half +teaspoonful of salt to the pan, cover it closely with another pan, +reduce the heat of the oven, and cook very slowly for four or five +hours.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[148]</a></span>Double pans are made which are especially good for braising, where the +steam should be confined as much as possible, and the basting is done +automatically. These pans should not be used for baking meats. If very +close fitting pans are not used, the water must be renewed when +necessary, and basting done frequently. The success of this dish depends +upon slow cooking. Strain the sauce from the pan, season with salt and +pepper; pour a little of the sauce over the meat; serve the rest in a +sauce-boat. It is very like a Spanish sauce. The vegetables may be +served around the meat if desired. This way of cooking can be done in a +pot if more convenient, and is then called a pot roast.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BEEF_A_LA_MODE_148" id="BEEF_A_LA_MODE_148"></a>BEEF À LA MODE</h4> + +<p>Use six or seven pounds of the upper round of beef for this dish. (It is +very good cold when properly cooked.) The success depends upon very slow +cooking. The vegetables give it a distinctive flavor.</p> + +<p>Make several deep incisions into the meat with a thin, sharp knife, or +with a steel. Press into them lardoons of salt pork about half an inch +square, and two or three inches long. This is called daubing, and the +butcher will ordinarily do it if <a name="corr16" id="corr16"></a>requested. Put trimmings of pork, or +two tablespoonfuls of drippings, into the bottom of a large iron pot. +When it is hot, put in the meat, and brown it on all sides by turning it +to the bottom of the pot. This will take about half an hour. Next dredge +it with flour, and brown that also. Then put a small plate under the +beef to lift it a little off the bottom of the pot, and prevent its +burning. Fill the pot with enough boiling water to half cover the meat. +Add a half cupful each of sliced onions, carrots, and turnips, and a +sprig of parsley. Cover the pot very tight, so the meat will cook in +steam; and simmer it for four or five hours. Add more boiling water when +necessary. When the meat is done, place it on a hot dish. Place some of +the vegetables around and over it. Make a gravy as follows: put into a +saucepan a tablespoonful of butter; when it bubbles, add a tablespoonful +of flour, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[149]</a></span> stir until it is browned; then add a cupful of liquor +strained from the pot in which the beef was cooked. If there is not a +cupful of liquor in the pot, add enough hot water to make that quantity. +Season with pepper and salt. This will resemble a Spanish sauce. It can +be poured over the meat, or served separately.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BOUILLI_149" id="BOUILLI_149"></a>BOUILLI</h4> + +<p>This dish is prepared usually from the meat used in making soup. Take a +piece from the lower side of round; trim, and tie it into good shape; +place it in the soup pot with cold water, allowing one quart of water to +each pound of meat. Let it come slowly to the boiling point, and then +let it simmer for four hours. After it has cooked two hours add a whole +carrot, onion, and turnip, parsley, celery, six peppercorns, three +cloves, one teaspoonful of salt. The meat will be tender if cooked very +slowly, and not allowed to boil; but having been put into cold water, +its juices will be extracted. Therefore the water is used as soup, and +the meat will depend on a good sauce for flavor. Any rich brown sauce +will do. Tomato or horseradish sauce is recommended. Cut the vegetables +into fancy shapes with cutters, or into dice, and place them on the dish +around the meat.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FILLET_OF_BEEF_149" id="FILLET_OF_BEEF_149"></a>FILLET OF BEEF</h4> + +<p>Time, thirty minutes in hot oven.</p> + +<p>The fillet is the tenderloin of beef, and is taken from the underside of +the sirloin cut. Remove, taking care not to make the meat ragged, the +sinewy skin and the muscle from the top, and most of the fat from the +other side. Fold the thin end under, trim it into good shape. Lard it +plentifully, letting the whole upper surface be perforated with fine +lardoons. Place in a small baking pan thin slices of larding pork, over +the pork place a layer of chopped onion, carrot, turnip and celery; lay +the tenderloin on top. Pour in the pan a cupful of stock, add one half +teaspoonful of salt, one quarter teaspoonful of pepper, and a bouquet of +parsley, one bay-leaf, and two cloves. Bake<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[150]</a></span> in a hot oven for thirty +minutes, and baste frequently. The fillet should be rare. Remove it when +done; strain off the gravy, and skim off the grease. Put into the same +pan a tablespoonful each of butter and of flour; stir until they are +browned; then add slowly the gravy strained from the pan; if not enough +to give a cupful, add enough stock to make that measure. Stir until it +boils; then add a canful of mushrooms (which have been drained), and let +them simmer for five minutes; not longer, or the mushrooms will harden. +Taste to see if the seasoning is right. Add a half teaspoonful of +kitchen bouquet to make it brown. The sauce should be of the consistency +of cream. A half cupful of Madeira or of sherry may be used in place of +the mushrooms if preferred. Spread the sauce on the serving dish, and +lay the fillet on it. Arrange the mushrooms top side up, evenly around +the fillet. In carving cut the fillet diagonally, instead of straight +across; and put a little gravy in the center of each slice. The time for +cooking is always thirty minutes, for the weight is in the length, and +not in the thickness of the meat.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="HOW_TO_BUY_A_FILLET_150" id="HOW_TO_BUY_A_FILLET_150"></a>HOW TO BUY A FILLET</h4> + +<p>A profitable way to obtain a fillet is to buy a large cut of the +sirloin, remove the tenderloin, and have the top cut into two or more +roasting pieces. Beef will keep for some time, and the butcher will hold +it until called for. In this way it will cost twenty-two to twenty-five +cents per pound, while, if bought by itself, it would be from eighty +cents to one dollar per pound.</p> + +<p>For a moderate sized family it may seem too much beef to buy at one +time; but it is the one kind of meat that can be served very often, and +there is no waste. It is good hot or cold, warmed over or hashed. The +suet is the best fat for frying purposes, and the bones make good soup. +Part of the sirloin piece can be cut into steaks, and one of the +roasting pieces rolled to give variety. The flank can be made into +Hamburg steaks, or into soup. If judiciously cut there will be little +left over to cook again.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[151]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COLD_ROAST_BEEF_151" id="COLD_ROAST_BEEF_151"></a>COLD ROAST BEEF</h4> + +<p>Roasted and braised beef are both quite as good cold as hot, and in +summer are sometimes preferable cold. Serve with cold beef a vegetable +salad when it is used for dinner. Make the salad of string beans, +asparagus, or a macédoine of vegetables. For a supper dish, the rolled +rib roast can be made very attractive by garnishing it with aspic jelly +cut into fancy forms. Place a large star of the jelly on top, and small +timbale forms of jellied vegetables, and broken jelly on the dish around +the meat; or a simpler garnishing can be made with lettuce leaves, +tomatoes stuffed with mayonnaise, or celery, etc. Use lettuce with any +of the salads. Have a fancy skewer stuck in the side.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SCALLOPED_MEAT_151" id="SCALLOPED_MEAT_151"></a>SCALLOPED MEAT</h4> + +<p>Spread in a baking dish alternate layers of bread-crumbs, meat chopped +very fine, a sprinkling of chopped parsley and onion, pepper and salt. +When the dish is nearly full, pour over enough white sauce to moisten it +well; cover with crumbs and bits of butter. Set in oven until browned. +Soup stock or tomatoes may also be used for moistening a scallop. If +uncooked meat is used, it will require longer cooking (one hour in slow +oven), and more liquid used, so that it will not get too dry. The coarse +ends of steak can be utilized in this way. A scallop made of raw meat +and tomatoes makes a good luncheon dish.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="HAMBURG_STEAKS_151" id="HAMBURG_STEAKS_151"></a>HAMBURG STEAKS</h4> + +<p>Chop one pound of lean raw meat very fine, remove all the fiber +possible. To the mince add</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>½ tablespoonful of onion juice.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful salt.</li> + <li>¼ teaspoonful pepper.</li> + <li>Dash of nutmeg.</li> + <li>1 egg.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Form it into small balls, and flatten; dredge them with flour, and sauté +them in butter. Place them on a hot dish, and spread with maître d’hôtel +butter; or make a thick brown sauce by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[152]</a></span> adding a tablespoonful of flour +to the butter used in the sauté pan. Let it brown; then add slowly a +little soup stock. Season with salt and pepper, and lemon juice, or +Worcestershire sauce. Drop a teaspoonful of sauce on each cake without +spreading it. Garnish with water-cresses. These steaks can be made from +the end pieces of steaks, or from the round.</p> + +<p>When made for invalids, the best meat is used. They are seasoned only +with salt and pepper, and broiled just enough to be thoroughly heated. +Another way to serve them is to make them the size of English muffins; +on the upper side make a depression or hollow, broil or sauté them, and +place them on a baking dish; spread them with maître d’hôtel butter, and +drop an egg in the hollow top of each one. Put them in the oven just +long enough to set the white of the egg. Place a dash of pepper on the +center of the yolk, and serve at once very hot.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BEEF_PIE_152" id="BEEF_PIE_152"></a>BEEF PIE</h4> + +<p>Lay in a pie dish a few thin slices of onion; then a layer of cold +cooked beef cut very thin. Dredge with a little flour, pepper, and salt; +fill the dish with these articles in alternate layers, and add any cold +gravy there may be at hand. Scald and peel enough tomatoes to cover the +top of the dish; have them of uniform size, and place them close +together. Spread over them some bread crumbs, salt, pepper, and bits of +butter. Place the dish in the oven, and cook until the tomatoes are +tender.</p> + +<p>Mutton or veal may be used in the same way.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="WARMED-OVER_BEEF_152" id="WARMED-OVER_BEEF_152"></a>WARMED-OVER BEEF (CHAFING-DISH)</h4> + +<p>Cut the beef into small thin slices, and trim off the fat. Put into a +stew pan one tablespoonful of butter, and one tablespoonful of flour. +When cooked, and a little browned, add slowly one cupful of stock, one +teaspoonful each of Worcestershire sauce and mushroom catsup. Season +with salt and pepper to taste. Add the slices of beef, and let them +become<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[153]</a></span> thoroughly hot. Then place in the center of a hot dish, and +pour the sauce over them. Garnish with croûtons, and serve with it +farina balls (see page <a href="#FARINA_BALLS_223">223</a>). Tomato catsup may be substituted for the +Worcestershire sauce. When this dish is to be prepared in a +chafing-dish, the sauce may be made beforehand; the heating and mixing +only being done over the lamp, and croûtons alone served with it. Any +kind of meat or fish may be used in this way.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="INSIDE_FLANK_153" id="INSIDE_FLANK_153"></a>INSIDE FLANK</h4> + +<p>Take the piece of meat called the inside flank; wipe it clean with a wet +cloth; carefully remove the skin and fat and lay it flat on a board; +moisten three quarters of a cupful of crumbs with stock; add one +teaspoonful of salt, one quarter teaspoonful of pepper, one teaspoonful +onion juice or one half onion chopped fine, one tablespoonful chopped +parsley. Spread this mixture on the meat evenly; then roll and tie it +with white twine; turn in the ends to make it even and shapely.</p> + +<p>Cut into dice an onion, turnip, and carrot, and place them in a +baking-pan; lay the rolled meat on the bed of vegetables; pour in enough +stock or water to cover the pan one inch deep; add a bouquet made of +parsley, one bay-leaf and three cloves; cover with another pan, and let +cook slowly for four or five hours, basting frequently. It can be done +in a pot just as well, and should be covered as tight as possible; when +cooked, strain off the vegetables; thicken the gravy with brown roux and +serve it with the meat. Long, slow cooking is essential to make the meat +tender. If cooked too fast it will not be good.</p> + +<p>A thin steak cut from the round may be cooked the same way, and a little +ham chopped fine may be added to the stuffing. The cost of this dish is +not more than eighteen to twenty-five cents, and is enough for four or +five persons.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RAGOUT_OF_BEEF_153" id="RAGOUT_OF_BEEF_153"></a>RAGOUT OF BEEF</h4> + +<p>Cut two pounds of the upper round of beef into inch squares; dredge them +with salt and pepper, and roll them in flour. Put<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[154]</a></span> into a saucepan some +butter and some drippings, or a little suet, and let it try out, using +enough only to cover the bottom of the saucepan; when the grease is hot, +turn in the pieces of meat, and let them cook until well browned on all +sides. Watch, and turn them as soon as browned; then draw the meat to +one side of the pan, and add a tablespoonful of flour; let the flour +brown, and add a cupful of stock or water, and stir until it comes to +the boiling-point; then add a teaspoonful of salt, a half teaspoonful of +pepper, one half teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet; one carrot cut into +blocks, and one tablespoonful of onion; cover the saucepan, and let it +simmer (not boil) for an hour. Just before serving add two +tablespoonfuls of sherry or of Madeira. Serve a border of rice around +the ragout.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[155]</a></span></p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="BEEFSTEAK_155" id="BEEFSTEAK_155"></a>BEEFSTEAK</h3> + + +<div class="explanations"><p>Some one has said, “There is as much difference between +beefsteaks as between faces; and a man of taste can find as +much variety in a dinner at the Beefsteak Club as at the +most plentifully-served table in town.”</p> + +<p>The difference between a thick and a thin steak is particularly +marked—the former seems like an altogether different dish +from the latter. <span class="sidenote"><b>Thickness.</b></span> Some may like their steak well done, but it +is not a taste to be commended. A perfect steak should be cut +one and a half inches thick, and cooked so that on both sides +it has a crust one eighth of an inch thick of browned meat, +the rest being an even red color. It should be puffed and +elastic from the confined steam of the juices. When the steak +is over-cooked the steam and the juices have escaped, leaving +the meat dry and tasteless. The three best sauces which are +served with steak are first the maître d’hôtel and then the +Béarnaise and mushroom sauces. <span class="sidenote"><b>Sauces.</b></span> Tough beefsteaks can be made +more tender by pounding them; but a better way is to brush +them on both sides with a mixture of one tablespoonful of +vinegar and two tablespoonfuls of oil or melted butter. The +steak should then stand two or more hours before being cooked. +It is the fiber of meat which makes it tough, and this fiber +is soluble in acetic acid, which is found in vinegar. Broiling +under the coals is better than over them when possible, as all +smoke is then avoided.</p> +</div> + + + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[156]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TO_BROIL_A_BEEFSTEAK_156" id="TO_BROIL_A_BEEFSTEAK_156"></a>TO BROIL A BEEFSTEAK</h4> + +<p>Time: one inch thick, eight minutes; one and a half inches thick, ten +minutes.</p> + +<p>Trim a steak into good shape, taking off the end-piece to be used in +some other form, as it is not eatable when broiled; take off superfluous +fat; make the surface smooth by striking it with the broad blade of +knife; heat the broiler very hot. Take a piece of the fat, trimmed off +the meat, on a fork and grease the broiler well; lay on the steak with +the outside or skin edge toward the handle, so the fat may run on the +meat. Place it close to the hot coals and count ten slowly; turn it and +do the same; this is to sear the outside and keep the juices in; then +hold it farther from the coals to cook more slowly, and turn it as often +as you count ten, counting about as fast as the clock ticks. If turned +in this way very little fat will run into the fire, and it also cooks +slowly, giving an even color all through. The flame from fat does not +injure the meat, but the smoke must be avoided. Wrap a napkin around the +hand holding the broiler to protect it from the heat. A steak ought not +to be less than an inch, but should be one and a half to one and three +quarters inches thick. Allow eight to ten minutes for cooking according +to the thickness. One two inches thick will take fourteen to eighteen +minutes. A steak should be rare but not raw, should have a uniform red +color, and be full of juice.</p> + +<p>When done it will be puffed between the wires of broiler, and will offer +a little resistance to the touch. If experience does not enable one to +judge in this way, remove the broiler to a dish on the table, and make a +small clean cut on one side. Do not at any time pierce the meat with a +fork. Sprinkle it with salt and pepper, and spread with maître d’hôtel +butter. If the steak has to stand a few minutes before serving, which +should be avoided if possible, dredge it at once with salt and pepper, +but do not spread with the maître d’hôtel butter until just before +sending it to the table. The heat of the meat must<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[157]</a></span> melt the butter, and +the parsley should look fresh and bright. Steak, as well as all broiled +articles, should be garnished with slices of lemon and with water-cress.</p> + +<p>Fried potato-balls, straws, puffed, or Saratoga potatoes may be served +on the same dish.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHATEAUBRIAND_157" id="CHATEAUBRIAND_157"></a>CHATEAUBRIAND</h4> + +<p>The Chateaubriand is cut from the center of the fillet; but a good +substitute is a tenderloin steak cut two inches thick, the bone removed, +and the meat then turned so as to make a circle. Flatten it by striking +with broad blade of knife or a cleaver. Broil slowly as directed above +for eighteen minutes. Serve with maître d’hôtel butter, mushroom, or +olive sauce, placing the mushrooms or olives on top of the steak, the +sauce under it. (See illustration facing page <a href="#illus-152-f-2">152</a>.)</p> + +<p>The Chateaubriand may also be roasted or braised.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 424px;"> +<a name="illus-152-f-2" id="illus-152-f-2" href="images/illus-152-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-152-f-2.jpg" width="424" height="202" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">A BONED TENDERLOIN STEAK MADE TO IMITATE A CHATEAUBRIAND +GARNISHED WITH WATER-CRESS AND LEMON. (SEE PAGE <a href="#CHATEAUBRIAND_157">157</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MIGNON_FILLETS_157" id="MIGNON_FILLETS_157"></a>MIGNON FILLETS</h4> + +<p>Cut slices from the end of the fillet of beef about five eighths of an +inch thick. Press and trim them into circles; dredge with salt and +pepper; sauté them in butter; spread Béarnaise sauce on a hot dish, and +lay the mignon fillets on it, or lay the fillets on croûtons of the same +size as the fillet, and place on top of each one a small spoonful of +peas, string-beans, or macédoine of vegetables.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CORNED_BEEF_157" id="CORNED_BEEF_157"></a>CORNED BEEF</h4> + +<p>Put corned beef into cold water; using enough to cover it well; let it +come slowly to the boiling-point; then place where it will simmer only; +allow thirty minutes or more to each pound. It is improved by adding a +few soup vegetables the last hour of cooking. A piece from the round is +the best cut, and should have a layer of fat. If cooked very slowly as +directed, it will be tender and juicy.</p> + +<p>If the piece can be used a second time, trim it to good shape; place it +again in the water in which it was boiled; let it get<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[158]</a></span> heated through; +then set aside to cool in the water and under pressure, a plate or deep +dish holding a flat-iron being set on top of the meat. The water need +not rise above the meat sufficiently to wet the iron. When cooled under +pressure the meat is more firm and cuts better into slices.</p> + +<p>Cabbage is usually served with hot corned beef, but should not be boiled +with it. The receipt given on page <a href="#BOILED_CABBAGE_212">212</a> is recommended, and if that +method is followed, there will be no odor from the cooking, and the +objection to this very good dish will be removed.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CORNED_BEEF_HASH_158" id="CORNED_BEEF_HASH_158"></a>CORNED BEEF HASH</h4> + +<p>Chop cooked corned beef, using some of the fat. Do not make it too fine; +chop some cold boiled potatoes (not fine); mix the two together in equal +proportions; season with salt, pepper, and onion juice, if liked.</p> + +<p>Put a tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan with as much milk, stock, +or hot water as will be required to moisten the hash; add the chopped +meat and potatoes; mix them together with care to not mash the potatoes; +cover and cook slowly for half an hour, or until a crust has formed on +the bottom of the pan; then turn it on to a hot dish, like an omelet. +Hash should not be like mush, but the meat and potato quite distinct, +and as both ingredients have been already cooked they need only to be +well heated and incorporated with the seasoning.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="HASH_158" id="HASH_158"></a>HASH</h4> + +<p>Unless for brown hash, or corned beef hash, potato is not used. Chop the +meat to a fine mince. Put a tablespoonful of butter into a frying-pan +with one slice of onion; remove the onion when cooked, and add one +tablespoonful of flour, and let it brown, thus making a brown roux, if +the hash is to be made of beef or mutton. Do not let it brown if it is +to be used for veal or chicken hash. To the brown roux add slowly a +cupful of stock or hot water; then a cupful and a half of minced meat; +season with salt and pepper; stir until well incorporated, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[159]</a></span> serve at +once on toast. To a white roux add slowly a cupful of milk; then add one +and a half cupfuls of veal or chicken chopped fine; season with salt and +pepper. Cut toast into large circles with a biscuit-cutter. Spread them +with a thick layer of mince, and on this place a poached egg, neatly +trimmed to the same size as the toast. It can be cut with the same +cutter, or it may be poached in a muffin-ring (see page <a href="#POACHED_EGGS_No_1_263">263</a>).</p> + +<p>Put a dash of pepper on the center of yolk. Garnish with parsley. This +makes a very presentable breakfast or luncheon dish.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BROWN_HASH_159" id="BROWN_HASH_159"></a>BROWN HASH</h4> + +<p>Cut lean meat into small dice; cut also cold boiled potatoes into dice +of the same size; mix them together, and place in a small baking-pan; +dredge with salt and pepper, and dot plentifully with bits of butter. +Put into hot oven to brown; stir them often so all sides will brown +alike, and do not let them become too dry.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MARROW-BONES_159" id="MARROW-BONES_159"></a>MARROW-BONES</h4> + +<p>Have the bones cut into pieces two or three inches long; scrape and wash +them very clean; spread a little thick dough on each end to keep the +marrow in; then tie each bone in a piece of cloth and boil them for one +hour. Remove the cloth and paste, and place each bone on a square of +toast; sprinkle with red pepper and serve very hot. Or the marrow-bone +can be boiled without being cut, the marrow then removed with a spoon +and placed on squares of hot toast. Serve for luncheon. (See +illustration facing page <a href="#illus-152-f-3">152</a>.)</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 419px;"> +<a name="illus-152-f-3" id="illus-152-f-3" href="images/illus-152-f-3-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-152-f-3.jpg" width="419" height="199" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">MARROW-BONES SERVED ON ROUND SLICES OF TOAST. (SEE PAGE +<a href="#MARROW-BONES_159">159</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[160]</a></span></p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="MUTTON_160" id="MUTTON_160"></a>MUTTON</h3> + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="The_cuts_and_cooking_of_Mutton_160" id="The_cuts_and_cooking_of_Mutton_160"></a><b>The cuts and cooking of Mutton.</b></span> Mutton should be hung for some days before being used. The leg +may be either boiled or roasted; the saddle always roasted; +the shoulder boned, stuffed and roasted; the chops broiled, +and the neck stewed. Except where it is stewed, mutton should +be cooked rare. Mrs. Brugière recommends pounding the leg of +mutton before cooking it. The roasted leg or the saddle are +the only forms of mutton permissible to serve at a ceremonious +dinner. The strong taste of mutton is in the fat. Therefore +trim off a part of the fat from the outside, and when baking +it in the oven set the joint on a rack in the pan, so it will +not cook in the fat.</p> + +<p><a name="Vegetables_to_serve_with_Mutton_160" id="Vegetables_to_serve_with_Mutton_160"></a><span class="sidenote"><b>Vegetables to serve with Mutton.</b></span> Certain vegetables have by experience been found to go well +with certain meats. Of these turnips have been established +as the accompaniment of mutton. This has been amusingly +emphasized by an anecdote told of Charles Lamb. <span class="sidenote"><b>Anecdote of Charles Lamb.</b></span> On an occasion +when riding in a stage coach, he was much annoyed by a Scotch +farmer, who was a fellow passenger, asking him questions about +the crops. “And pray, sir,” asked the farmer, “how are turnips +t’ year?” “Why,” stammered Lamb, “that will depend upon the +boiled legs of mutton.”</p> + +<p>Turnips and carrots cut into dice, boiled separately, then +mixed and covered with white sauce, also make a good vegetable +dish for boiled mutton. Caper sauce is always served with it.</p> + +<p>Another anecdote is given as a suggestion for an<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[161]</a></span> expedient +in case the mutton is too underdone (boiled mutton should be +red, but not black). An English nobleman, on being shown a +Dutch picture representing a man in a passion with his wife +because the mutton was underdone, exclaimed, “What a fool +the fellow is not to see that he may have a capital broil.”</p> + +<p>With roasted mutton may be served baked turnips stuffed with +seasoned bread-crumbs soaked in cream. It is a Russian dish. +Bananas cut in two, rolled in egg and crumbs, and fried like +croquettes, are also recommended for roast mutton. Mint +sauce and green peas are usually served with spring lamb.</p></div> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[162]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ROAST_LEG_OF_MUTTON_162" id="ROAST_LEG_OF_MUTTON_162"></a>ROAST LEG OF MUTTON</h4> + +<p>Time ten minutes per pound (rare); fifteen minutes per pound (moderately +well done).</p> + +<p>Cut the bone short, place in a hot oven for twenty minutes; then add one +cupful of hot water; baste frequently. Allow ten minutes to the pound +for cooking rare. When ready to serve conceal the bone with a frill of +paper, or a few leaves of parsley.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ROAST_LOIN_OF_MUTTON_162" id="ROAST_LOIN_OF_MUTTON_162"></a>ROAST LOIN OF MUTTON</h4> + +<p>Have the joints cracked entirely through, so there may be no trouble in +carving. Remove the fat and kidney. Allow nine minutes to the pound; +roast the same as the leg.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ROAST_SADDLE_OF_MUTTON_162" id="ROAST_SADDLE_OF_MUTTON_162"></a>ROAST SADDLE OF MUTTON</h4> + +<p>The saddle is the back of the animal. If split it would be called the +loin, and when cut gives the chops. It does not furnish very much meat +for a roast, so requires to be a large cut. It is esteemed for its +handsome appearance, as well as for its flavor. Remove the skin from the +top, also the fat and kidneys from the under side. The suet on the top +can be lightly cut in points, and a little raised to make decoration. +Roll the flaps under, and tie into a well rounded shape. If a large +saddle is used, the tail is left on. It should be cooked in a hot oven, +basted frequently, and cooked rare, allowing nine minutes to the pound. +In carving cut slices the length of the saddle, and parallel to the back +bone; then slip the knife under, and separate them from the rib bones. +After the top is carved, the saddle is turned, and the tenderloin, which +lies on the under side, is cut in the same way.</p> + +<p>Serve currant jelly with the saddle of mutton.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ROLLED_LOIN_162" id="ROLLED_LOIN_162"></a>ROLLED LOIN (CROWN ROAST)</h4> + +<p>Have the butcher cut a full loin, split the bone between the chops, trim +the rib bones as for French chops, and chop them off<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[163]</a></span> to a uniform +length; then roll the loin backward into a circle, and tie securely. +Have a thick slice of larding pork wrapped around each bone, so it will +not burn while cooking. Baste frequently while roasting, and allow nine +minutes to the pound. Serve with Saratoga or other fancy fried potatoes +in the basket-like top formed by the bones. Place a frill of paper on +each bone.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 421px;"> +<a name="illus-162-f-1" id="illus-162-f-1" href="images/illus-162-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-162-f-1.jpg" width="421" height="199" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">CROWN ROAST. A RACK OF MUTTON, THE CENTER FILLED WITH +SARATOGA POTATOES. (SEE PAGE <a href="#ROLLED_LOIN_162">162</a>.)</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 424px;"> +<a name="illus-162-f-2" id="illus-162-f-2" href="images/illus-162-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-162-f-2.jpg" width="424" height="197" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">CROWN ROAST PREPARED FOR COOKING.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SHOULDER_OF_MUTTON_STUFFED_163" id="SHOULDER_OF_MUTTON_STUFFED_163"></a>SHOULDER OF MUTTON STUFFED</h4> + +<p>Have the butcher carefully remove the blade from the shoulder, and fill +the space with a mixture made of</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 cupful of bread-crumbs.</li> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls of butter.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful chopped parsley.</li> + <li>1 dozen oysters.</li> + <li>Juice of 1 lemon.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>¼ teaspoonful of pepper.</li> + <li>1 egg.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Sew up the opening, roast in the oven with a little water in the pan; +allow fifteen minutes to the pound, and baste frequently. Serve with the +gravy from the pan, after the grease is carefully poured off. More +oysters may be used, or they may be omitted altogether. A stuffing may +be made of chopped meat, celery, onion, mushrooms, crumbs, egg, and +seasoning of salt and pepper.</p> + +<p>A stuffed shoulder can be pressed into a shape to resemble a fowl or a +duck, and garnished so as to make an ornamental dish.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 420px;"> +<a name="illus-162-f-3" id="illus-162-f-3" href="images/illus-162-f-3-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-162-f-3.jpg" width="420" height="199" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">BONED AND STUFFED SHOULDER OF MUTTON. (SEE PAGE <a href="#SHOULDER_OF_MUTTON_STUFFED_163">163</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BOILED_MUTTON_163" id="BOILED_MUTTON_163"></a>BOILED MUTTON</h4> + +<p>Time fifteen minutes to the pound.</p> + +<p>Put the mutton in just enough boiling water to cover it, and put on the +lid of the pot. After fifteen minutes draw it aside, and let it simmer +for the required time. Thirty minutes before removing the meat add some +soup vegetables. They will give flavor to the meat, and enrich the +water, which may be used for soup the next day. Cut the carrot and +turnip in half inch thick slices, and stamp with a fluted cutter, so the +rims will be scalloped. Place the meat on a hot dish, and rub lightly +over it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[164]</a></span> enough of the white sauce (to be used for the caper sauce) to +make the surface white and smooth. Sprinkle with chopped parsley or +capers. Take the sliced vegetables, cut a hole in the center, and string +them alternately on the bone, which will protrude at each end. This will +give the effect of skewers, conceal the bone, and make the dish more +presentable.</p> + +<p>Serve with caper sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CAPER_SAUCE_164" id="CAPER_SAUCE_164"></a>CAPER SAUCE</h4> + +<p>Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a saucepan; when melted, add a +tablespoonful of flour; cook for a few minutes, but not brown; then add +one cupful of water in which the mutton was boiled; season with salt and +pepper, strain, and add one heaping tablespoonful of capers.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RAGOUT_OF_MUTTON_OR_LAMB_164" id="RAGOUT_OF_MUTTON_OR_LAMB_164"></a>RAGOUT OF MUTTON OR LAMB</h4> + +<p>One and one half pounds of the neck of mutton or lamb cut into pieces +one inch square.</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 tablespoonful of butter.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of flour.</li> + <li>1 onion.</li> + <li>1 carrot.</li> + <li>½ can of peas.</li> + <li>1½ cupfuls of water or stock.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>¼ teaspoonful of pepper.</li> + <li>Sprig of parsley.</li> + <li>1 bay-leaf.</li> + <li>1 clove.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Put the butter into a frying-pan; when melted add the flour, and let +brown. Then add the carrot and onion cut into dice, and the mutton. +Cook, stirring frequently, until all are browned, using care that they +do not burn; it will take about twenty minutes. Then add the stock or +water, and the seasoning, having the herbs in a bouquet, so they can be +removed. Cover closely, and let simmer for two hours. Add the peas ten +minutes before removing from the fire.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[165]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RAGOUT_OF_COLD_BOILED_MUTTON_165" id="RAGOUT_OF_COLD_BOILED_MUTTON_165"></a>RAGOUT OF COLD BOILED MUTTON</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>2 cupfuls of cold boiled mutton cut in inch squares.</li> + <li>1 onion sliced.</li> + <li>1 cupful of stock or water in which mutton was boiled.</li> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls of butter.</li> + <li>½ can of peas.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>¼ teaspoonful of pepper.</li> + <li>1 head of lettuce.</li> + <li>Farina balls.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Put all the ingredients, except the lettuce and farina balls, into a +saucepan together; cover closely, and simmer very slowly for one hour; +stir occasionally, but with care not to break the meat or peas. When +ready to serve, taste to see if the seasoning is right, and pour on a +hot dish. Lay around the edge, and close to the meat, the crisp leaves +of one head of lettuce, and the farina balls (see page <a href="#FARINA_BALLS_223">223</a>). This way of +utilizing cold mutton will be found very good. The garnishing makes it a +presentable dish, and is a good accompaniment in place of other +vegetables.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="IRISH_STEW_165" id="IRISH_STEW_165"></a>IRISH STEW</h4> + +<p>Cut the neck of mutton into pieces two and one half or three inches +square. Put them into a saucepan with one tablespoonful of butter, and +let them brown; stir frequently so they do not burn. When browned add +enough water to cover them well, and two or three onions cut into +pieces. Cover closely and let simmer two hours. Then add more water if +necessary, some parboiled potatoes cut in two, and a few slices of +carrot, salt, and pepper to taste; cover and let cook one hour more. A +teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce is an improvement. The gravy must be +quite thick, so too much water must not be used. The potatoes should be +very soft, but not broken.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MUTTON_CHOPS_165" id="MUTTON_CHOPS_165"></a>MUTTON CHOPS</h4> + +<p>Loin chops should be cut one and one fourth inches thick, and the fat +trimmed off, leaving them round; or the end pieces<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[166]</a></span> may be pared off +thin, wrapped around the chops, and fastened with a skewer, making the +chop into the form of a circle.</p> + +<p>The breast chops are cut a little thinner, the bones scraped and cut +into even lengths. They are called French chops when the bones are bare. +Whichever kind of chops are used, they should be all of uniform size and +shape.</p> + +<p>Broil the chops over or under hot coals, turning the broiler as often as +you count ten slowly, using the same method as in broiling steak. When +the meat offers a little resistance and is puffy, it is done. If cooked +too long the chops will be hard and dry. If properly seared at first the +juices are shut in, and the inflation is caused by the confined steam +from the juices. It will take eight to ten minutes to broil chops which +are one inch thick. When done sprinkle over them a little salt and +pepper and butter. Dress them on a hot dish in a circle, the chops +overlapping.</p> + +<p>Green peas, string-beans, or any small vegetable, or fancy-fried +potatoes, such as balls, straws, Saratoga, etc., may be served on the +same dish, and placed in the center of the circle, or around the chops. +Spinach or mashed potato pressed into form of socle may be used, and the +chops rested against it, the bones pointing up or slanting. Paper frills +placed on the ends of the bones improve their appearance.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 422px;"> +<a name="illus-166-f-1" id="illus-166-f-1" href="images/illus-166-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-166-f-1.jpg" width="422" height="199" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">RAGOUT OF MUTTON GARNISHED WITH FARINA BALLS AND LETTUCE. +(SEE PAGE <a href="#RAGOUT_OF_COLD_BOILED_MUTTON_165">165</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 423px;"> +<a name="illus-166-f-2" id="illus-166-f-2" href="images/illus-166-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-166-f-2.jpg" width="423" height="202" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">THREE KINDS OF MUTTON CHOPS.</span> + +<ul class="illus"> + <li>1. English Mutton Chop.</li> + <li>2. French Chop.</li> + <li>3. Boned and Rolled Chop.</li> + <li>(See page <a href="#MUTTON_CHOPS_165">165</a>.)</li> +</ul> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHOPS_IN_PAPER_CASES_166" id="CHOPS_IN_PAPER_CASES_166"></a>CHOPS IN PAPER CASES</h4> + +<p>Put into a frying-pan some slices of salt pork; when tried out, lay in +neatly trimmed and seasoned lamb or veal chops; let them sauté until +half cooked; remove the chops, and to the pan add a tablespoonful of +onion chopped fine; when the onion is cooked add a cupful of stock and a +cupful of mixture containing minced veal or chicken, a little ham, and +mushrooms, chopped parsley, and truffles if convenient; salt and pepper +to taste. Put a spoonful of this sauce on a well-buttered or oiled +paper, cut in heart-shape; lay the chop on the sauce, and on the chop +put another spoonful of the sauce. Fold the paper over, and plait<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[167]</a></span> the +edges together so as to completely enclose the chop. Lay the enclosed +chops on a buttered dish, and place them in the oven for ten minutes; +serve on the same dish very hot. Chops can also be broiled in +well-greased paper, and with a little care it is easily done without +burning the paper. Heavy writing paper should be used; the fire should +be moderate, and the chops turned frequently. They are served in the +papers, and are very good, as they hold all the juices of the meat.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHOPS_A_LA_MAINTENON_167" id="CHOPS_A_LA_MAINTENON_167"></a>CHOPS À LA MAINTENON</h4> + +<p>Put one tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan; when hot add one +tablespoonful of flour; let the flour cook a few minutes; then add four +tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, one teaspoonful of parsley, one +half teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of pepper; moisten with three +tablespoonfuls of stock; mix well together and set aside to cool. Have +six French chops cut one inch thick. With a sharp knife split the chops +in two without separating them at the bone; spread the mushroom mixture +between the opened chops; press the edges well together, and broil for +eight minutes; serve with an olive sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SPRING_LAMB_167" id="SPRING_LAMB_167"></a>SPRING LAMB</h4> + +<p>Spring lamb is best when two months old. It must be used when fresh, and +must be thoroughly cooked, but not dried. It is divided into the fore +and hind quarters, the whole of either not being too much to serve at +one time; the former are less expensive than the latter, but the meat is +equally sweet and good. Roast it in a hot oven with a little water in +the pan; allow fifteen to eighteen minutes to the pound, and baste +frequently; serve with it mint sauce, and green peas or asparagus tips +for vegetable.</p> + +<p>When using a fore quarter, have the bones well cracked, so that in +carving it may be cut into squares, or have the shoulder blade removed. +A very good dressing may be made on the table as follows: cut around the +shoulder bone; lift and place<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[168]</a></span> under it two tablespoonfuls of butter, +the juice of one lemon, one teaspoonful of salt, one half teaspoonful of +pepper. Press the pieces together, and let stand a minute to melt the +butter before carving.</p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="VEAL_168" id="VEAL_168"></a>VEAL</h3> + + +<p>The flesh of veal should be pink and firm, the bones hard. If it has a +blue tinge and is flabby, it has been killed too young, and is +unwholesome. Like lamb, it must be used while perfectly fresh and be +thoroughly cooked. It contains less nourishment than other kinds of +meat; also, having less flavor, it requires more seasoning. Veal is +frequently used as a substitute for chicken. It can be made into +croquettes and salads very acceptably.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ROAST_FILLET_OF_VEAL_168" id="ROAST_FILLET_OF_VEAL_168"></a>ROAST FILLET OF VEAL</h4> + +<p>The fillet is cut from the upper part of the leg, and should be four to +six inches thick. Only one good fillet can be cut from the leg. Press +and tie it into good round shape. Lay a few slices of larding pork over +the top. Place it in very hot oven for fifteen minutes; then lower the +heat; baste frequently with water from the pan; allow eighteen to twenty +minutes to the pound. It must be thoroughly cooked, but not dried. +Remove the slices of pork from top a half hour before it is done, so it +may brown. The bone may be removed from the fillet before cooking, and +the space filled with stuffing made of crumbs, sweet herbs, pepper and +salt, and a little chopped salt pork. Thicken the gravy in pan to serve +with the fillet.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STUFFED_SHOULDER_OF_VEAL_168" id="STUFFED_SHOULDER_OF_VEAL_168"></a>STUFFED SHOULDER OF VEAL</h4> + +<p>Twenty to twenty-five minutes per pound.</p> + +<p>Have the blade removed, and fill the space with a stuffing made of bread +crumbs, thyme, marjoram, lemon juice, chopped salt pork, salt and +pepper, and an egg; also chopped mushrooms, if desired. Sew up the +opening, press and tie it into<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[169]</a></span> good shape, and roast the same as the +fillet. The stuffing may also be made of minced veal cut from the +knuckle, highly seasoned.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRICANDEAU_OF_VEAL_169" id="FRICANDEAU_OF_VEAL_169"></a>FRICANDEAU OF VEAL</h4> + +<p>The fricandeau is the most choice cut of veal. It is taken from the +upper round of the leg, and is one side of the fillet. As it destroys +that cut, it commands the highest price. It should be cut four inches +thick, and is usually larded and braised. Place it in a baking-pan on a +layer of sliced salt pork, and chopped carrot, onion, and turnip. Add a +bouquet of herbs, a cupful of stock, and enough water to fill the pan +one and a half inches deep. Cover closely, and let cook in moderate +oven, allowing twenty minutes to the pound; baste frequently. Remove the +cover for the last half hour, so the meat may brown. Strain the gravy +from the pan to serve with it.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="VEAL_CUTLETS_169" id="VEAL_CUTLETS_169"></a>VEAL CUTLETS</h4> + +<p>Leave the cutlet whole or cut it into pieces of uniform size and shape; +dredge with salt and pepper; dip in egg and cover with bread crumbs or +with flour; sauté cutlets in drippings, or in a frying-pan after slices +of salt pork have been tried out. Cook until well browned on both sides; +then place them on a hot dish and moisten the top with a little lemon +juice; or, omitting the lemon juice, serve with them a tomato or a +Béarnaise sauce, or make a gravy by adding a little flour to the grease +in the pan, and diluting to right consistency, after the flour is +browned, with stock or water. If the gravy is used, put it in the bottom +of the dish and place the cutlets on it.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="A_PLAIN_POT-PIE_169" id="A_PLAIN_POT-PIE_169"></a>A PLAIN POT-PIE</h4> + +<p>Cut veal, chicken, or beef into pieces; put them with strips of pork +into boiling water and cook until tender; season with salt, pepper, and +butter. There should be enough liquid to make a generous amount of +gravy. When the stew is ready<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[170]</a></span> cook the dumplings, and place them on the +same dish around the stew. If suet dumplings are used, they must be +placed in the pot as soon as it boils in order to cook them a sufficient +length of time. It is better to cook either kind of dumplings in a +separate pot with plenty of water, and not remove them until the stew is +dished and ready to be sent to the table.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="DUMPLINGS_WITH_BAKING_POWDER_170" id="DUMPLINGS_WITH_BAKING_POWDER_170"></a>DUMPLINGS WITH BAKING POWDER</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>2 cupfuls of flour.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder.</li> + <li>1 cupful of milk.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Mix the flour, salt, and baking powder well together, then stir in +quickly the milk. Have the dough quite soft. Drop the batter from a +spoon into the stew, or into boiling water; or, if preferred, make the +dough just consistent enough to roll, and cut it into squares. The stew +must not be allowed to stop simmering after the dumplings are in; and +they must be served immediately after being taken from the pot, or they +will fall. It will take ten minutes to cook them.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="DUMPLINGS_WITH_SUET_170" id="DUMPLINGS_WITH_SUET_170"></a>DUMPLINGS WITH SUET</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 cupful of chopped suet.</li> + <li>2 scant cupfuls of flour.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>½ cupful of cold water.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Mix together lightly the flour, suet and salt; then with a knife stir in +quickly the water. The dough must be soft, but not sticky. Put it on a +board, and roll it lightly to one inch thickness, and place it on the +boiling stew in one cake. The stew must not stop boiling for a moment, +or the dumpling will fall. Cook for one hour. The dough may be rolled +into balls if preferred. When the dumpling is put in, draw the pot +forward where it will heat quickly, and not arrest the boiling. When it +is thoroughly hot, place it where it will simmer continually during the +hour of cooking. If this rule is observed, it will be light and spongy. +Where cooked meat is used, which does not require such long cooking, the +dumplings may be boiled in water.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[171]</a></span>This mixture can be used for fruit and for roly-poly puddings (see page +<a href="#ROLY-POLY_PUDDING_443">443</a>).</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="JELLIED_VEAL_171" id="JELLIED_VEAL_171"></a>JELLIED VEAL</h4> + +<p>Wipe a knuckle of veal clean with a wet cloth; have it well broken. Put +it in a saucepan with two quarts of water, or enough to cover it. Tie in +a piece of cheese-cloth one tablespoonful each of chopped onion, carrot, +and turnip, a little parsley and celery, three cloves, and a blade of +mace. Put it in the pot. Boil slowly until the veal falls from the bone; +then strain it, and put the liquor again in the saucepan; season it with +salt, pepper, and a little lemon juice. Reduce it to one quart by +boiling with the cover off the saucepan. Cut two hard-boiled eggs into +thin slices, and with them ornament the bottom of a plain mold; a brick +ice-cream mold, or a small tin basin will do. Put a very little of the +liquor in to fix the ornament, but not enough to float the egg slices. +When set add a little more of the liquor, enough to make a layer of +jelly one quarter of an inch thick. When that is set fill the mold with +the veal, and place slices of boiled egg between the layers of meat. +Around the sides of the mold lay in slices of egg. Then pour in as much +of the liquor as it will hold, and set away to harden. This makes a good +cold dish to use with salad.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 419px;"> +<a name="illus-170-f-1" id="illus-170-f-1" href="images/illus-170-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-170-f-1.jpg" width="419" height="200" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">JELLIED VEAL DECORATED WITH SLICES OF HARD-BOILED EGG. +GARNISHED WITH LETTUCE.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="VEAL_LOAF_171" id="VEAL_LOAF_171"></a>VEAL LOAF</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>3 pounds of veal.</li> + <li>½ pound of ham, or</li> + <li>¼ pound of salt pork.</li> + <li>2 eggs.</li> + <li>1 cupful of fine bread or cracker crumbs.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of pepper.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of onion juice.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of ground mace.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of allspice.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Chop the veal and ham very fine, mix into it the other ingredients, and +mold it into a loaf; or press it into a mold or tin to form a loaf; then +turn it on a baking dish. Baste it with beaten egg, and sprinkle it with +bread crumbs. Cook in mod<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[172]</a></span>erate oven for two hours, basting it several +times with melted butter and water. This dish is to be served cold.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="VEAL_SCALLOP_172" id="VEAL_SCALLOP_172"></a>VEAL SCALLOP</h4> + +<p>Chop veal to a fine mince. Put into a baking-dish alternate layers of +veal and bread crumbs, sprinkling the meat with salt and pepper, the +crumbs with bits of butter. Over the top pour a white sauce made of one +tablespoonful each of butter and flour, and one cupful of milk. Spread +over it a layer of crumbs, and put in the oven to brown.</p> + +<p>Rice may be used instead of the crumbs, and tomatoes instead of the +white sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="LIVER_AND_BACON_172" id="LIVER_AND_BACON_172"></a>LIVER AND BACON</h4> + +<p>Cut the liver into slices one half inch thick; lay them in boiling water +for a few minutes, then dry and cover them with flour and a little +pepper and salt. Lay in a hot frying-pan very thin slices of bacon. When +tried out enough for the bacon to be crisp, remove it and put the slices +of liver in the same frying pan. Cook until thoroughly done, but not +dried. Remove the liver, and to the fat in the pan add a spoonful of +flour; when the flour is brown, add enough water slowly to make a thick +sauce. Pour the sauce over the liver, and place the bacon around it. +Liver is generally cut thin, but it will be found much better when cut a +half inch or more thick. The bacon should be cut thin, and cooked +quickly; the liver cut thick, and cooked slowly.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BROILED_LIVER_172" id="BROILED_LIVER_172"></a>BROILED LIVER</h4> + +<p>Slice the liver. Let it soak in hot water a few minutes to draw out the +blood. Dry it, rub it with butter, and broil five to eight minutes, +turning it constantly. It should not be cooked until dry. When done, +spread it with butter, and serve at once.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BRAISED_LIVER_172" id="BRAISED_LIVER_172"></a>BRAISED LIVER</h4> + +<p>Use a calf’s or lamb’s liver.</p> + +<p>Lard it in two or three rows. Cut into dice one carrot, one turnip, one +onion, a stalk of celery, and the bits left from the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[173]</a></span> lardoons of salt +pork; put them in a baking pan, and on this bed of vegetables place the +larded liver. Add two cupfuls of stock or hot water, and a bouquet of +one sprig of parsley, one bay-leaf, and two cloves. Cover with another +pan, and cook in moderate oven for two hours; baste occasionally. Serve +with the vegetables from the pan, on the same dish, placed around the +liver. Pour over the liver a sauce made as follows: Put in a saucepan +one tablespoonful of butter; when melted, add one tablespoonful of +flour, and stir until browned; then add slowly the strained liquor from +the pan. If there is not enough to make one cupful, add water to make +that quantity. Season with salt and pepper, and add, if convenient, one +tablespoonful each of Worcestershire sauce and mushroom catsup.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STEWED_KIDNEYS_173" id="STEWED_KIDNEYS_173"></a>STEWED KIDNEYS</h4> + +<p>Beef, calf or lamb kidneys may be used. Be sure they are very fresh. +Remove the fat and white center, then soak them for one hour in salted +water. Cut them in slices one half inch thick, cover the slices with +flour, and sauté them for five minutes in one tablespoonful of butter. +Add to the frying-pan one thin slice of onion and one half cupful of +water, and simmer for ten minutes, not longer. The kidneys will be tough +and hard if cooked too long. Just before serving, add one quarter cupful +of sherry; salt and pepper to taste. One tablespoon of Worcestershire +sauce may be used instead of the sherry.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TRIPE_173" id="TRIPE_173"></a>TRIPE</h4> + +<p>Soak the tripe for several hours, then scrape it thoroughly clean, put +it in salted water, and simmer it for three or four hours, until it is +like jelly. Drain off the water, and put the tripe aside until ready to +use. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan; when hot add a +tablespoonful of flour, and cook for a few minutes, but do not brown. +Then add slowly one cupful of milk, and stir until smooth. Add a half +teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper, and a half teaspoonful of onion +juice; then add one cupful of the boiled tripe. Stir until the tripe is +heated, and serve immediately.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[174]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CALFS_HEART_174" id="CALFS_HEART_174"></a>CALF’S HEART</h4> + +<p>Wash the heart, but do not let it soak, or stand in water. Fill it with +a stuffing made of minced meat or of bread, either one of them seasoned +with onion, sage, thyme, marjoram, pepper and salt, and an egg to bind +it. Bake it for two hours, basting it frequently with water from the +pan. When the heart is cooked remove it, and add to the pan a +tablespoonful of flour; stir until it has browned. Then, if there is not +enough liquor in the pan, add to it just enough water to make a thick +sauce. Strain this over the heart, and serve on the same dish some +boiled and browned onions.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BEEFS_TONGUE_174" id="BEEFS_TONGUE_174"></a>BEEF’S TONGUE</h4> + +<p>If a smoked tongue is used, soak it over night. Put it in cold water, +and let it come to the boiling point. Then simmer for four hours, or +until tender.</p> + +<p>Boil a fresh tongue in salted water one and a half hours. A few soup +vegetables may be added to the water if convenient. Before putting it in +the water, trim it carefully, and skewer it into good shape. When it is +boiled remove the skin. If it is to be used cold, replace the skewer, +put it again in the water in which it was boiled, and let it remain +there until cold; then cover it with a meat glaze colored red. If served +hot, pour over it a white sauce, and garnish with parsley and sliced +pickle; or serve with it a piquante sauce. Spinach is a good vegetable +to serve with tongue.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="HOT_SLICED_TONGUE_174" id="HOT_SLICED_TONGUE_174"></a>HOT SLICED TONGUE</h4> + +<p>Make a piquante sauce (see page <a href="#PIQUANTE_SAUCE_283">283</a>). Lay slices of boiled tongue cut +one half inch thick into it, and let them remain until well heated. +Arrange the hot slices in a circle, the slices overlapping, and pour the +sauce in the center. Garnish with capers, slices of hard-boiled eggs, +and gherkins; or make a form of spinach by pressing into a bowl +well-chopped and sea<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[175]</a></span>soned spinach. Turn it on the center of a dish, and +lay the slices around or against it. Serve with piquante or with pickle +sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COLD_TONGUE_175" id="COLD_TONGUE_175"></a>COLD TONGUE</h4> + +<p>Lay thick slices of tongue in a circle, the pieces overlapping. Place in +the center a bunch of nasturtium blossoms and lettuce leaves. Serve with +Tartare or cold Béarnaise sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="JELLIED_TONGUE_175" id="JELLIED_TONGUE_175"></a>JELLIED TONGUE</h4> + +<p>Cut tongue into slices. Lay them together to look like a solid piece, +and place them in a square or brick-shaped mold. Sprinkle a few capers +in the bottom of the mold before putting in the tongue. Have the mold +only large enough for the tongue to fit in easily, but be held in place. +Fill with aspic jelly (see page <a href="#ASPIC_321">321</a>).</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BOILED_CALFS_HEAD_175" id="BOILED_CALFS_HEAD_175"></a>BOILED CALF’S HEAD</h4> + +<p>Have the head split open, and the gristle about the nose and eyes, and +the eyes and ears, removed by the butcher. Wash thoroughly the head; +remove the tongue and brains; parboil the brains, and set them aside +with the tongue to use on another occasion (see page <a href="#CALFS_BRAINS_307">307</a>). Blanch the +head by putting it into cold water; when it comes to the boiling point, +pour off the hot water, and cover it with cold water. When cold, rub it +with lemon. Put it into boiling water, enough to cover it; add two +tablespoonfuls of vinegar or white wine, twelve peppercorns, one +bay-leaf, one onion, one carrot, and a sprig of parsley. Cover the pot, +and let boil for two hours, or until tender, but not ready to fall +apart. When done, take out the bones carefully, and lay the meat on a +baking dish in compact shape. Rub over the top with egg, sprinkle it +with bread crumbs and bits of butter, and set in the oven to brown. +Serve with it a Poulette or an Allemande sauce.</p> + +<p>Put any of the meat left over after being served in this manner into a +mold; fill it up with water in which the head was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[176]</a></span> boiled; season to +taste. This will make a jellied meat very good to use with salad.</p> + +<p>The water from the pot will make a good soup. (See <a href="#CALFS-HEAD_OR_MOCK-TURTLE_SOUP_103">mock turtle soup</a>.) +Four separate dishes can be made from one head, viz.: boiled calf’s +head, cold jellied calf’s head, mock turtle soup, tongue and brains, +with white, Poulette, or Vinaigrette sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CALFS_HEAD_WITH_VINAIGRETTE_176" id="CALFS_HEAD_WITH_VINAIGRETTE_176"></a>CALF’S HEAD WITH VINAIGRETTE SAUCE</h4> + +<p>After the calf’s head is boiled as directed above, take it from the +water, remove the meat, and press it into a square mold or tin, and let +it get entirely cold. It can then be cut into uniform pieces. When ready +to serve, heat some of the liquor in which the head was boiled, cut some +long slices from the form of cold calf’s head, lay them in the hot +liquor to become hot only. Remove them carefully, and place them on a +hot dish. Pour over them a Vinaigrette sauce. (For sauce, see page <a href="#CALFS_HEAD_A_LA_VINAIGRETTE_307">307</a>.)</p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="PORK_176" id="PORK_176"></a>PORK</h3> + + +<p>Salt pork and bacon should be kept always at hand; the former for +larding, spreading in thin slices over baked meats, poultry, and birds, +and various other uses as directed in many receipts. Bacon is an +appetizing accompaniment to many breakfast dishes. Fresh pork is used +only in cold weather, and must be thoroughly cooked.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ROAST_PORK_176" id="ROAST_PORK_176"></a>ROAST PORK</h4> + +<p>The roasting pieces are the leg, loin, spare-rib, and shoulder. If the +skin is left on cut it through in lines both ways, forming small +squares. Put a cupful of water in the pan with the meat; bake in a +moderate oven, allowing twenty to twenty-five minutes to the pound. Pork +must be thoroughly cooked. Serve with apple sauce or fried apples.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRIED_APPLES_176" id="FRIED_APPLES_176"></a>FRIED APPLES</h4> + +<p>Cut slices one half inch thick across the apple, giving circles. Do not +remove the skin or core.</p> + +<p>Or cut the apples in quarters, leaving on the skin and remov<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[177]</a></span>ing the +core. Sauté the apples in butter or drippings until tender, but not soft +enough to lose form.</p> + +<p>Serve the fried apples on the same dish with pork as garnishing.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PORK_CHOPS_177" id="PORK_CHOPS_177"></a>PORK CHOPS</h4> + +<p>Cut pork chops not more than one half inch thick. Trim off most of the +fat, dredge them with flour, and sauté them until thoroughly cooked, and +well browned. It will take about twenty-five minutes. Serve with fried +apples.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BOILED_HAM_177" id="BOILED_HAM_177"></a>BOILED HAM</h4> + +<p>Soak the ham over night, or for several hours. Thoroughly wash and +scrape it. Put it into cold water; let it come to the boiling point; +then simmer, allowing twenty minutes to the pound. Pierce the ham with a +fine skewer. If done the skewer can be withdrawn easily without +sticking. Let the ham partly cool in the water; then remove and draw off +the skin. Sprinkle the top plentifully with cracker crumbs and brown +sugar, or brush it with egg. Press into it a number of whole cloves, and +set it in the oven a few minutes to brown. Or the ham may be left white, +and dotted with pepper, a clove stuck in the center of each spot of +pepper. Soup vegetables and a bouquet of herbs boiled with a ham improve +its flavor. A ham boiled in cider is especially good. Trim the meat +around the bone, and conceal the bone with a paper frill or vegetable +cut into shape of rose. Ornament the ham with dressed skewers, or with +parsley and lemon.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 426px;"> +<a name="illus-170-f-2" id="illus-170-f-2" href="images/illus-170-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-170-f-2.jpg" width="426" height="202" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">COLD HAM COVERED WITH CHAUDFROID SAUCE AND DECORATED WITH +TRUFFLES TO IMITATE BRANCHES—ORNAMENT ON TOP A HALF-OLIVE SURROUNDED +WITH SLICES OF PICKLE—A PIECE OF THE HAM-SKIN LEFT ON THE BONE END AND +THE EDGE OF THE SKIN DECORATED WITH TRIANGULAR AND DIAMOND-SHAPED PIECES +OF TRUFFLE—PAPER FRILL ON HAM-BONE—DISH GARNISHED WITH LETTUCE, +WATER-CRESS, OR PARSLEY.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BAKED_HAM_177" id="BAKED_HAM_177"></a>BAKED HAM</h4> + +<p>Soak and prepare the ham as directed above. Let it simmer for two hours; +then remove it and take off the skin, and bake it in a moderate oven for +two hours; baste it frequently, using a cupful of sherry, two spoonfuls +at a time, until all is used; then baste with drippings from the pan. +When done, cover it with a paste made of browned flour and brown sugar +moistened with sherry, and replace in the oven for a few minutes to +brown.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[178]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BROILED_HAM_AND_EGGS_178" id="BROILED_HAM_AND_EGGS_178"></a>BROILED HAM AND EGGS</h4> + +<p>Cut the ham very thin. If very salt, place it in boiling water for a few +minutes. Then dry and broil it over hot coals for three or four minutes.</p> + +<p>Put a few pieces of salt pork into a frying pan. When tried out, add the +eggs, one at a time, from a saucer. Baste the top of the eggs with fat +from the pan. Let them brown a little on the edges, but not blacken, and +serve them around the slices of ham.</p> + +<p>Boiled ham may be broiled. If so, cut it into thin, small pieces, and +after broiling it, place on each piece a fried egg.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="HAM_AND_EGGS_A_LAURORE_178" id="HAM_AND_EGGS_A_LAURORE_178"></a>HAM AND EGGS À L’AURORE</h4> + +<p>Chop fine some cold boiled ham. Boil six or eight eggs very hard (see +page <a href="#BOILED_EGGS_262">262</a>). With a sharp knife cut them in quarters lengthwise. Remove +the yolks, and press them through a coarse sieve or strainer; lay the +white segments in warm water. Make a white sauce, using two +tablespoonfuls of butter; when melted, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, +and let cook for a few minutes; then add slowly two cupfuls of milk. +Stir constantly, and when a smooth, consistent sauce, season with salt +and white pepper.</p> + +<p>Moisten the chopped ham with a little of the sauce, and place it on the +fire just long enough to become well heated. Stir constantly so the +sauce will not brown. Make a smooth, rounded mold of the ham in the +center of a hot dish. Pour over it the white sauce. Sprinkle thickly +over the top the yolk crumbs; then range evenly around it the white +segments of the eggs.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BACON_178" id="BACON_178"></a>BACON</h4> + +<p>Cut bacon very thin, as shown on page <a href="#HOW_TO_CUT_BACON_78">78</a>. Lay the slices on a hot +frying-pan. When clear turn them over. Tip the pan a little, so the fat +will run to one side. If not wanted crisp and dry, turn the slices +before they look clear, and remove before all the fat is tried out.</p> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[179]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="Chapter_V" id="Chapter_V"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter V</span><br /> +<br /> +POULTRY AND GAME</h2> + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="CHICKENS_179" id="CHICKENS_179"></a>CHICKENS</h3> + +<div class="explanations"><p><a name="To_judge_the_age_of_a_chicken_179" id="To_judge_the_age_of_a_chicken_179"></a>To judge the age of a chicken, touch the end of the +breastbone. If it is still cartilaginous, and bends easily +from side to side, the meat of the chicken will be tender. +If the cartilage has hardened to bone, the bird is over a +year old, and should be used only for the purposes which +fowls serve. The skin of the chicken should be firm, smooth +and white; the feet soft, the legs smooth and yellow, the +spurs small, the eyes bright and full, the comb red. On +young chickens there are pin-feathers; on fowls, there are +long hairs. The dry-picked chickens are preferable to those +which are scalded. It is not easy to find all the conditions +right in our markets, which are mostly supplied with frozen +poultry, and one is obliged to rely very much on the honesty +of the poulterer. Chicken, to be perfectly wholesome and +good-flavored, should be drawn as soon as killed; but here +again we are subject to the customs of our markets, and are +obliged to buy poultry which has not only been killed, but +undrawn, for an indefinite time. It is presumable, however, +that poultry sent to market is frozen shortly after being +killed, and it does not deteriorate while frozen. It should +be drawn at once after it comes to the kitchen, without +waiting for the time to prepare it for cooking.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[180]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="section"><a name="TO_CLEAN_AND_DRAW_POULTRY_180" id="TO_CLEAN_AND_DRAW_POULTRY_180"></a>TO CLEAN AND DRAW POULTRY</h4> + +<p>First, remove any pin-feathers; then singe off the hairs. +This is done best over an alcohol flame. Put one or two +tablespoonfuls of alcohol into a plate or saucer and ignite +it. (Wood alcohol is inexpensive, and besides serving this +purpose very well may be used also in the chafing-dish and +tea-kettle lamps.) If alcohol is not at hand, use lighted +paper, but take care not to smoke the chicken. Hold the fowl +by the head and feet, and turn it constantly, exposing every +part to the flame. <span class="sidenote"><b>Washing.</b></span> After singeing, wash the outside of the +chicken thoroughly with a cloth and bowl of water. The skin +will become several degrees whiter when freed from dust and +the marks of much handling. Do not place the chicken in the +bowl of water, or at any time allow the meat to soak, as that +will extract its flavor. After the chicken is drawn, it should +only be wiped out with a wet cloth. If it is properly drawn +there will be nothing unclean to wash away from the inside. +After the skin of the chicken is cleaned, cut off the head, +cut the skin down the back of the neck, turn it over while you +remove carefully the crop and windpipe, and cut off the neck +close to the body, leaving the skin to fold over the opening. +<span class="sidenote"><b>Drawing the Sinews.</b></span> Next take the leg, bend it back slightly, and carefully cut +the skin on the joint, just enough to expose the sinews +without cutting them; run a skewer or fork under them, one at +a time, and draw them out; five or eight of them can be easily +removed after a little practice. The one on the back of the +leg is particularly large and strong. These sinews are very +tough and almost bony after cooking, especially in turkeys, +but if they are removed the meat of the drumstick is quite as +good as that of the second joint. After the sinews are drawn, +break the leg off at the joint, the sinews hanging to it. Cut +a small opening under the rump;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[181]</a></span> run a finger around close to +the body to loosen the entrails. Do the same at the neck +opening. Carefully draw them out, in one solid mass, without +any part being broken; cut around the vent to free the large +intestine. If by any mischance the gall or intestines should +be broken, the inside of the chicken must be washed at once; +otherwise only wipe it out with a wet cloth, as directed +above. Cut the oil sack away from the rump. Cut the gall +carefully off the liver; cut the outer coat of the gizzard and +draw it carefully away from the inner sack, leaving the sack +unbroken. Open the heart and wash away the clot of blood. The +heart, liver, and gizzard are the giblets. All poultry and +birds are dressed in the same way.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 415px;"> +<a name="illus-184-f-1" id="illus-184-f-1" href="images/illus-184-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-184-f-1.jpg" width="415" height="195" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">LEG OF CHICKEN WITH SINEWS DRAWN. (SEE PAGE <a href="#TO_CLEAN_AND_DRAW_POULTRY_180">180</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="TO_BONE_A_FOWL_181" id="TO_BONE_A_FOWL_181"></a>TO BONE A FOWL</h4> + +<p>Wash and singe the fowl; take off the head and legs, and +remove the tendons as directed for drawing. When a fowl is to +be boned it is not drawn. The work of boning is not difficult, +but requires care and a little practice. The skin must not be +broken. Use a small pointed knife; cut the skin down the full +length of the back; then, beginning at the neck, carefully +scrape the meat away from the bone, keeping the knife close to +the bone. When the joints of the wings and legs are met, break +them back and proceed to free the meat from the carcass. When +one side is free, turn the fowl and do the same on the other +side. The skin is drawn tightly over the breast-bone, and care +must be used to detach it without piercing the skin. When the +meat is free from the carcass, remove the bones from the legs +and wings, turning the meat down or inside out, as the bones +are exposed, and using care not to break the skin at the +joints. The end bones of the wings cannot be removed, and the +whole end joint may be cut off or left as it is. +</p></div> + + + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[182]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ROASTED_BONED_CHICKEN_182" id="ROASTED_BONED_CHICKEN_182"></a>ROASTED BONED CHICKEN</h4> + +<p>Spread the boned chicken on a board, the skin side down; turn the flesh +of the legs and wings right side out, and stuff them with forcemeat into +shape. Equalize the meat as well as possible, placing the mignon +fillets, or little strips of white meat next the bone, over the dark +meat, etc.; dredge with salt and pepper. Make a roll of the stuffing or +forcemeat, and lay it in the chicken. Draw the skin up, and sew it +together securely. Turn it over, place the legs and wings into the +position of a trussed fowl, press the body into natural shape, and tie +it securely; or it may be pressed into the form of a duck or rabbit. +Cover with slices of salt pork, and roast in oven, allowing twenty +minutes to the pound; baste frequently. Remove the pork the last fifteen +minutes, dredge with flour, and let it brown. Serve with a giblet or +tomato sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BRAISED_BONED_CHICKEN_182" id="BRAISED_BONED_CHICKEN_182"></a>BRAISED BONED CHICKEN</h4> + +<p>To braise the chicken prepared as above, roll it lightly in a piece of +cheese cloth, tying the ends well. Put in a saucepan the bones of the +chicken, a slice of carrot and onion, a bouquet containing parsley, one +bay-leaf, three cloves, twelve peppercorns, celery if convenient, and a +knuckle of veal. Add enough water to cover the bed of vegetables and +bones; lay in the chicken; cover the pot, and let it simmer for four +hours.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="JELLIED_BONED_CHICKEN_182" id="JELLIED_BONED_CHICKEN_182"></a>JELLIED BONED CHICKEN</h4> + +<p>A braised boned chicken may be served hot, or it may be set aside to +cool, then jellied as follows: Strain the water in which the chicken was +braised, and let it cool; then remove the grease and clarify the liquor; +season it highly. If veal has been used, and the liquor jellies, it may +be used as it is. If veal has not been used, add gelatine soaked in cold +water, observing the proportion of one box of gelatine to one and a half +quarts of liquor.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[183]</a></span> Mask a mold with jelly (see page <a href="#TO_MOLD_JELLY_323">323</a>); when the jelly +is set, put in the chicken, and add enough liquid jelly to entirely +cover it. Or, on the bottom of the mold make a decoration of either +truffles, ham, capers, gherkins, or any combinations suitable; fix it +with a thin layer of jelly; when hardened, add enough more to make a +layer of jelly one quarter of an inch thick, and when that is hardened +lay in the chicken, and surround it with the liquid jelly (see molding +jellies, page <a href="#TO_ORNAMENT_MOLDS_324">324</a>). Garnish the dish on which the jellied chicken is +served with lettuce, and serve with it a Mayonnaise, Béarnaise, or +Tartare sauce.</p> + +<p>When the chicken is to be jellied, use enough water in the braising pot +to give three pints of liquor after the cooking is done.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FORCEMEAT_183" id="FORCEMEAT_183"></a>FORCEMEAT, FOR STUFFING BONED FOWLS</h4> + +<p>Use the meat of another fowl, or veal, or pork, or a mixture. Chop them +fine, and add to the minced meat one cupful of bread or cracker crumbs +and, if convenient, a little chopped boiled ham or tongue, and a few +lardoons of pork. Season with the following articles, and moisten the +whole with stock:</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of onion juice.</li> + <li>¼ teaspoonful of pepper.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful thyme.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of salt.</li> +</ul> + +<p>If veal is used, take it from the knuckle, and use the bone in the +braising pot, as it will give a good jelly.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TO_TRUSS_A_FOWL_183" id="TO_TRUSS_A_FOWL_183"></a>TO TRUSS A FOWL</h4> + +<p>When the fowl is wiped, singed, and drawn as by directions given above, +put in the stuffing if it is to be used; place a little in the opening +at the neck, the rest in the body, and sew up the opening. Draw the skin +of the neck smoothly down and under the back, press the wings close +against the body, and fold the pinions under, crossing the back and +holding down the skin of the neck. Press the legs close to the body, and +slip them under<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[184]</a></span> the skin as much as possible. Thread the trussing +needle with white twine, using it double. Press the needle through the +wing by the middle joint, pass it through the skin of the neck and back, +and out again at the middle joint of the other wing. Return the needle +through the bend of the leg at the second joint, through the body and +out at the same point on the other side; draw the cord tight, and tie it +with the end at the wing joint. Thread the needle again, and run it +through the legs and body at the thigh bone, and back at the ends of the +drumsticks. Draw the drumstick bones close together, covering the +opening made for drawing the fowl, and tie the ends. Have both knots on +the same side of the fowl. When cooked, cut the cord on the opposite +side, and by the knots it can easily be drawn out. (See <a href="#illus-184-f-2">illustration</a>.)</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 420px;"> +<a name="illus-184-f-2" id="illus-184-f-2" href="images/illus-184-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-184-f-2.jpg" width="420" height="203" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">TRUSSED CHICKEN. (SEE PAGE <a href="#TO_TRUSS_A_FOWL_183">183</a>.)</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 418px;"> +<a name="illus-184-f-3" id="illus-184-f-3" href="images/illus-184-f-3-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-184-f-3.jpg" width="418" height="198" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">BACK OF TRUSSED CHICKEN.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ROASTED_CHICKEN_184" id="ROASTED_CHICKEN_184"></a>ROASTED CHICKEN</h4> + +<p>A roasted chicken may be stuffed or not. If stuffing is used it should +only half fill the chicken. Truss it as directed above, or use skewers, +doubling a cord across the back and around the ends of the skewers to +hold them in place. A roasted or boiled chicken is not presentable, +which has not been securely fastened into good shape before being +cooked. Dredge the chicken with salt and pepper, and place it on slices +of salt pork in a baking pan; add a very little water, and bake in hot +oven, allowing fifteen minutes to the pound; baste frequently. White +meat must be well cooked, but not dried. Fifteen minutes before it is +done, rub it over the top and sides with butter, dredge it with flour, +and replace it in the oven until it becomes a golden brown and looks +crisp. Draw out the trussing cords, and garnish with parsley. Serve with +it a giblet sauce. Do not use a tough chicken for roasting; one a year +old is about right. A roasting chicken may be larded if desired.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STUFFING_FOR_FOWLS_184" id="STUFFING_FOR_FOWLS_184"></a>STUFFING FOR FOWLS</h4> + +<p>Moisten a cupful of bread-crumbs with a tablespoonful of melted butter; +season highly with salt, pepper, thyme, chopped<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[185]</a></span> parsley, and onion +juice; or put in a saucepan a tablespoonful of butter and fry in it one +minced onion; then add one cupful of soaked bread, the water being +pressed out, one half cupful of stock, one teaspoonful of salt, one half +teaspoonful each of pepper and thyme, and one half cupful of celery cut +into small pieces. Stir it until it leaves the sides of the pan.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHESTNUT_STUFFING_185" id="CHESTNUT_STUFFING_185"></a>CHESTNUT STUFFING</h4> + +<p>Shell a quart of large French chestnuts. Put them in hot water and boil +until the skins are softened; then drain off the water and remove the +skins. Replace the blanched chestnuts in water, and boil until soft. +Take out a few at a time, and press them through a colander or a potato +press. They mash more easily when hot. Season the mashed chestnuts with +a tablespoonful of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of a +teaspoonful of pepper. Some cooks add a tablespoonful of chopped +parsley, and moisten it with a little stock. Some add, also, a few bread +crumbs. The dressing is best seasoned only with butter, salt, and +pepper.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="GIBLET_SAUCE_185" id="GIBLET_SAUCE_185"></a>GIBLET SAUCE</h4> + +<p>Boil the giblets until tender; chop them, but not very fine; add a +tablespoonful of flour to the pan in which the chicken was roasted; let +it brown, stirring constantly; add slowly a cupful of water in which the +giblets were boiled; season with salt and pepper; strain and add the +chopped giblets; serve in a sauceboat. The liver is a tidbit, and should +be roasted and served with the chicken, instead of being used in the +sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BOILED_CHICKEN_185" id="BOILED_CHICKEN_185"></a>BOILED CHICKEN</h4> + +<p>A chicken too old to roast is very good when boiled. Truss the chicken +firmly. It is well also to tie it in a piece of cheese-cloth, to keep it +in good shape. It may be stuffed or not. Boiled rice seasoned with +butter, pepper, and salt, or celery cut in small pieces, is better to +use for boiled chicken than bread stuffing.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[186]</a></span>Put the chicken into boiling salted water and simmer, allowing twenty +minutes to the pound; when done, remove the cloth and cords carefully, +spread a little white sauce over the breast, and sprinkle it with +chopped parsley. Garnish with parsley, and serve with it egg, oyster, or +Béarnaise sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BRAISED_CHICKEN_186" id="BRAISED_CHICKEN_186"></a>BRAISED CHICKEN</h4> + +<p>A fowl too old to roast may be made tender and good by braising, and +present the same appearance as a roasted chicken.</p> + +<p>Prepare it as for roasting, trussing it into good shape. Cut into dice a +carrot, turnip, onion, and stalk of celery; put them in a pot with a few +slices of salt pork, and on them place the fowl, with a few pieces of +salt pork laid over the breast; add a bouquet of parsley, one bay-leaf, +three cloves, six peppercorns, also a teaspoonful of salt, and a pint of +hot water. Cover the pot closely and let simmer for three hours. If any +steam escapes, a little more water may have to be added. When done, rub +a little butter over the breast, dredge with flour, and place in the +oven a few minutes to brown. Strain the liquor from the braising pot, +season to taste, and if necessary thicken with a little brown roux; +serve it with the chicken as sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BROILED_CHICKEN_186" id="BROILED_CHICKEN_186"></a>BROILED CHICKEN</h4> + +<p>Young spring chickens only are used for broiling. Split them down the +back, remove the entrails and the breast bone, wipe them clean, sprinkle +with salt and pepper, and rub them with soft butter. Place them on a +broiler over a slow fire, the inside down; cover with a pan, and let +cook for twenty to twenty-five minutes. Turn, to let the skin side brown +when nearly done. Place them on a hot dish, and spread them with maître +d’hôtel butter; garnish with parsley or watercress and thin slices of +lemon.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRICASSEE_186" id="FRICASSEE_186"></a>FRICASSEE</h4> + +<p>Cut a chicken into eleven pieces: two drumsticks, two second joints, two +wings, two breasts, three back pieces.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[187]</a></span>Put the pieces in a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of butter or +drippings; let them brown slightly on both sides, but use care that they +do not burn; when a little colored, add enough boiling water to cover +them; add a bouquet of herbs, salt and pepper, and a few slices of salt +pork. Simmer until tender. Arrange the pieces neatly on a dish, using +the best ones outside, and pour over them a gravy made as follows: +Strain the liquor from the pot and take off the fat. Make a white roux +of one tablespoonful of butter and two of flour; add to it slowly a +cupful of the liquor from the pot; season to taste; remove from the +fire, and when a little cool add a cupful of cream or milk beaten up +with two or three yolks of eggs. Place again on the fire until the eggs +are a little thickened, but do not let it boil, or they will curdle. A +tablespoonful of sherry may be added, if liked, or a half can of +mushrooms. A border of rice may be placed around the chicken, or +softened toast used under the chicken.</p> + +<p>To make a brown fricassee, sprinkle the pieces of chicken, after they +are simmered until tender, with salt, pepper, and flour, and place them +in the oven to brown. Make a brown instead of a white roux, and omit the +cream or milk.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRIED_CHICKEN_187" id="FRIED_CHICKEN_187"></a>FRIED CHICKEN</h4> + +<p>Cut a tender chicken in pieces; dip the pieces in water; sprinkle them +with salt and pepper, and roll them in flour; sauté them in a +tablespoonful of lard or butter, browning both sides; then remove and +add to the pan a tablespoonful of flour; cook it for a minute without +browning, stirring all the time, and add a cupful of milk or cream; stir +until it is a little thickened; strain; mix into it a tablespoonful of +chopped parsley. Place the sauce on the serving-dish and arrange the +pieces of chicken on it.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHICKEN_FRITTERS_187" id="CHICKEN_FRITTERS_187"></a>CHICKEN FRITTERS</h4> + +<p>Cut cold cooked chicken or turkey off the bones in as large pieces as +possible; sprinkle with salt and pepper; dip them in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[188]</a></span> fritter batter +(see page <a href="#FRITTER_BATTER_426">426</a>), and fry in hot fat until a golden brown. Place the +pieces when fried on a brown paper until all are done; dress them on a +folded napkin, and serve with a Béarnaise, Mayonnaise, or Tartare sauce.</p> + +<p>The pieces may be rolled in egg and bread crumbs instead of being dipped +in batter, if preferred.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STUFFED_CHICKEN_OR_TURKEY_LEGS_188" id="STUFFED_CHICKEN_OR_TURKEY_LEGS_188"></a>STUFFED CHICKEN OR TURKEY LEGS</h4> + +<p>Carefully remove the tendons from the drumsticks as directed in drawing +(page <a href="#TO_CLEAN_AND_DRAW_POULTRY_180">180</a>); remove the bone, all but about an inch and a half at the +small end, and remove any remaining sinews. Stuff the leg with a +forcemeat made of chicken or veal chopped very fine, and use with it the +liver and a little strip of larding pork; season it with salt, pepper, +and chopped parsley, and moisten it with one egg. Draw the skin over the +end and sew it closely together, keeping the shape as natural as +possible. Lay the stuffed legs in a baking-pan; cover with boiling +water, and simmer an hour, or until tender; remove them from the water, +press them into shape, and let cool. When cold, take out the stitches, +dredge with salt and pepper, roll in beaten egg and bread crumbs, and +fry in hot fat until browned; or broil them on both sides four minutes, +if chicken; six minutes, if turkey legs; or they may be sautéd in +butter. They may be deviled by rubbing them with mustard and a little +red pepper before coating with the eggs and crumbs. Serve them arranged +like chops, the bones masked with paper frills.</p> + +<p>If preferred, the bones may be entirely removed, and the leg flattened +to look like a cutlet. This can be done by placing them under a weight +to cool after being boiled. Serve with an olive, Béarnaise, Tartare, or +any sauce preferred.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="GRILLED_BONES_188" id="GRILLED_BONES_188"></a>GRILLED BONES</h4> + +<p>Take the wings, second joints, and drumsticks of cold cooked chicken; +dip them in melted butter, sprinkle them with salt and pepper, and broil +them until they are very hot and well browned.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[189]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHICKEN_A_LA_VIENNE_189" id="CHICKEN_A_LA_VIENNE_189"></a>CHICKEN À LA VIENNE</h4> + +<p>Split a small spring chicken down the back, as for broiling; remove the +breast bone; then cut it into four pieces, giving two breast and two leg +pieces, cut off the pinions; marinate the pieces in oil, vinegar, +pepper, and salt; then roll in flour, and fry in hot fat, one piece at a +time; drain and place on paper in the open oven until all are done. They +should be a light golden color. Place a paper frill on the leg and wing +bones, and dress them on a folded napkin. Serve with Tartare sauce; or +arrange the pieces overlapping on a dish, and garnish with four lettuce +leaves holding Tartare sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHICKEN_BALTIMORE_STYLE_189" id="CHICKEN_BALTIMORE_STYLE_189"></a>CHICKEN, BALTIMORE STYLE</h4> + +<p>Split a small spring chicken down the back as for broiling; remove the +breast-bone and cut off the pinions. Cut into four pieces; dredge with +salt and pepper; dip them in egg and fresh crumbs. Place them in a pan, +and pour over each piece enough melted butter to moisten it; then roast +in the oven eighteen to twenty minutes. Make a cream sauce, taking one +cupful of Béchamel sauce, and adding to it a half cupful of cream and a +half tablespoonful of butter. Pour this sauce on a dish, and place the +pieces of chicken on it. Garnish with slices of fried bacon.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHICKEN_IMPERIAL_189" id="CHICKEN_IMPERIAL_189"></a>CHICKEN IMPERIAL</h4> + +<p>Cut the breast from a chicken, retaining it in shape on the bone. Remove +the skin, and lard the breast on each side with four lardoons. Place it +in a deep saucepan; cover with stock or boiling water, and simmer for +thirty to forty minutes, or until tender. Then remove from the water, +and place in oven for ten minutes to take a very light color. Make a +sauce as follows:</p> + +<p>Put into a saucepan one half cupful of the stock in which the breast was +boiled, and one half cupful of cream. Let it come to the scalding point; +season with salt and pepper and one tablespoonful of chopped parsley. +Remove from fire, and stir in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[190]</a></span> slowly two yolks and two tablespoonfuls +of milk beaten together. Stir constantly until thickened, but do not let +boil, or the egg will curdle. Strain and pour it around the breast. The +breast should be carved diagonally, giving three pieces on each side.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 411px;"> +<a name="illus-192-f-1" id="illus-192-f-1" href="images/illus-192-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-192-f-1.jpg" width="411" height="199" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">CHICKEN IMPERIALE AND STUFFED LEGS. (SEE PAGES <a href="#STUFFED_CHICKEN_OR_TURKEY_LEGS_188">188</a> AND +<a href="#CHICKEN_IMPERIAL_189">189</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHICKEN_BREASTS_WITH_POULETTE_SAUCE_190" id="CHICKEN_BREASTS_WITH_POULETTE_SAUCE_190"></a>CHICKEN BREASTS WITH POULETTE SAUCE</h4> + +<p>Remove the breasts from several chickens; cut them lengthwise, each +breast giving four pieces. Simmer them in salted water until tender. +Make a Poulette sauce (see page <a href="#POULETTE_SAUCE_280">280</a>), and pour over the breasts piled on +a dish. Sprinkle with parsley chopped very fine. Use a generous amount +of sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHICKEN_CHARTREUSE_190" id="CHICKEN_CHARTREUSE_190"></a>CHICKEN CHARTREUSE</h4> + +<p>Mix one cupful of cooked chicken minced very fine with</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley,</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of onion juice,</li> + <li>¼ teaspoonful of salt,</li> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls of tomato juice,</li> + <li>1 beaten egg,</li> + <li>Dash of pepper.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Grease well a charlotte russe or pudding mold; line it one inch thick +with boiled rice. Fill the center with the chicken mixture, and cover +the top with rice, so the chicken is entirely encased, and the mold is +full and even. Cover and cook in steamer for forty-five minutes. Serve +with it a tomato sauce; pour a little of the sauce on the dish around +the form, not over it.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 412px;"> +<a name="illus-192-f-2" id="illus-192-f-2" href="images/illus-192-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-192-f-2.jpg" width="412" height="195" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">CHARTREUSE OF CHICKEN GARNISHED WITH SLICE OF HARD-BOILED +EGG AND PARSLEY. (SEE PAGES <a href="#CHARTREUSE_83">83</a> AND <a href="#CHICKEN_CHARTREUSE_190">190</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHICKEN_SOUFFLE_190" id="CHICKEN_SOUFFLE_190"></a>CHICKEN SOUFFLÉ</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 tablespoonful of butter.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of flour.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley.</li> + <li>1 cupful of milk.</li> + <li>1 cupful of minced chicken.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>3 eggs.</li> + <li>10 drops of onion juice.</li> + <li>Dash of pepper.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Make a white sauce by putting the butter in a saucepan or double boiler. +When melted add the flour, and cook a moment<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[191]</a></span> without browning. Then add +slowly the milk, and stir till smooth. Season with salt, pepper, +parsley, and onion juice. There should be one cupful of the sauce. +Remove from the fire, and stir in the beaten yolks of three eggs; then +add a cupful of chicken chopped fine. Stir the mixture over the fire a +minute until the egg has a little thickened; then set aside to cool. Rub +a little butter over the top, so it will not form a crust. When time to +serve beat very stiff the whites of the three eggs, and stir them +lightly into the cold chicken mixture. Put it into a pudding dish, and +bake in hot oven for twenty minutes. Serve at once in the same dish. +This is a soufflé, so the whites of the eggs must not be added until it +is time for it to go into the oven, and it will fall if not served +immediately after it comes from the oven. This dish may be made with any +kind of meat. Chicken soufflé may be baked in paper boxes, and served as +an entrée.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHICKEN_LOAF_191" id="CHICKEN_LOAF_191"></a>CHICKEN LOAF</h4> + +<p>Boil a fowl until the meat falls from the bones. Strain, and put the +liquor again in the saucepan; reduce it to one and a half pints, and add +one quarter box of soaked gelatine. Lay a few slices of hard-boiled egg +on the bottom of a plain mold; fill the mold with alternate layers of +white and dark meat of the chicken. Season the liquor, and pour it over +the meat in the mold, and set it away to harden; it will become a jelly. +It is a good dish to use with salad for luncheon or supper.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHICKEN_CHAUDFROID_191" id="CHICKEN_CHAUDFROID_191"></a>CHICKEN CHAUDFROID</h4> + +<p>Cut cold cooked chicken into as neat and uniform pieces as possible; +remove the skin; make a chaudfroid sauce as directed on page <a href="#CHAUDFROID_SAUCE_281">281</a>. Mix +the sauce thoroughly, and let it cool enough to thicken, but not harden. +Roll each piece of chicken in this sauce until well coated. Range the +pieces without touching in a pan, the ends resting on the raised edge; +place the pan on ice until the sauce is set. Make a socle (see page <a href="#SOCLES_326">326</a>) +of bread or rice; rub it with butter, and mask it with chopped parsley. +Arrange the pieces of chicken around the socle, resting them<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[192]</a></span> against +it; then with a brush coat them over lightly with clear chicken aspic +which is cold, but still liquid. Ornament the top of socle with a star +of aspic, or with a bunch of nasturtium, or other blossoms or leaves. +Garnish the dish with aspic, with flowers, or leaves; or, if socle is +not used, pile the pieces in pyramidal form and garnish. Serve with it a +Mayonnaise, Béarnaise, or Tartare sauce; or some of the chaudfroid sauce +diluted.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHICKEN_MAYONNAISE_192" id="CHICKEN_MAYONNAISE_192"></a>CHICKEN MAYONNAISE</h4> + +<p>Cut cold cooked chicken into pieces; remove the skin, and trim the +pieces into good shape. Cover each piece with jelly Mayonnaise (page +<a href="#JELLY_MAYONNAISE_290">290</a>), and leave them in a cool place until the Mayonnaise has set. Trim +them and dress them around an ornamented socle or a mound of salad, or +lay each piece on a leaf of lettuce. Garnish with aspic or with flowers. +Use a green, white, or yellow Mayonnaise; and keep in cold place until +ready to serve.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ENGLISH_CHICKEN_PIE_192" id="ENGLISH_CHICKEN_PIE_192"></a>ENGLISH CHICKEN PIE (COLD)</h4> + +<p>Take two tender chickens, and cut them up as for frying. Put them into a +large saucepan with two and a half quarts of water; add a bouquet made +of sweet marjoram, basil, parsley, three bay-leaves, sprig of thyme, and +small blade of mace. Let them simmer until well cooked. Add to the pot +when the chicken is about half done one half pound of bacon cut into +small pieces like lardoons. Wash the bacon before adding it. A quarter +of an hour before removing the chicken add the half of a small can of +truffles cut into slices.</p> + +<p>Boil eight eggs very hard, and cut them in slices. Arrange on the bottom +of an earthen dish a layer of egg slices and truffles, then a layer of +chicken meat; alternate the layers until the dish is two-thirds full. +Return the bones and coarse pieces of meat to the pot, and reduce the +liquid one third. Strain, cool, and remove the grease. Return the stock +to the fire, add a quarter box or one half ounce of soaked gelatine. +Pour this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[193]</a></span> over the chicken. When it has jellied and is ready to +serve, place on the top a crust of puff paste, which has been cut to fit +the dish, and has been baked separately.</p> + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="TURKEY_193" id="TURKEY_193"></a>TURKEY</h3> + +<div class="explanations"><p>The rules given for dressing and cooking chickens apply also +to turkeys. Turkey can be substituted for chicken in any of +the receipts given. A young turkey will have smooth black +legs and white skin.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>General Directions.</b></span> Fifteen minutes to the pound is the time allowed for +roasting or boiling a young turkey; for an old one more time +will be required. They should have slow cooking and frequent +basting. After a turkey is trussed, wet the skin; dredge it +well with salt and pepper, and then with a thick coating of +flour. This will give a crisp brown crust.</p></div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TURKEY_GALANTINE_193" id="TURKEY_GALANTINE_193"></a>TURKEY GALANTINE OR BONED TURKEY</h4> + +<p>Select a young fat hen turkey. Bone it as directed, page <a href="#TO_BONE_A_FOWL_181">181</a>; spread the +boned meat on the table, the skin side down. Equalize the meat as well +as possible by paring it off at the thick parts, and laying it on the +thin parts. Leave the legs and wings drawn inside; lay a few lardoons of +salt pork on the meat lengthwise. Make a forcemeat of another fowl or of +veal, or of both chicken and veal. Chop it to a very fine mince, and +pound it in a mortar to make it almost a paste. Season it with salt and +pepper, savory, marjoram, thyme, and sage—about a half teaspoonful each +of the herbs—one teaspoonful of onion juice, a half cupful of cold +boiled tongue cut into dice, some truffles cut into large pieces. +Moisten it with stock and mix thoroughly. It will take three or four +pounds of meat, according to the size of the turkey, to make sufficient +stuffing. Spread<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[194]</a></span> the forcemeat on the boned turkey, having the tongue, +truffles, and a few pieces of both the white and dark meat of the turkey +well interspersed through it. Roll up the turkey, making it as even as +possible, and sew it together; then roll it in a piece of cheesecloth +and tie it securely at both ends and around the roll in several places.</p> + +<p>Place the galantine and the bones of the fowl in a kettle, with an +onion, carrot, celery, bouquet of herbs, and a tablespoonful of salt. +Cover it with boiling water, and let simmer three or four hours; then +remove it from the fire; let the galantine remain in the water for an +hour; then take it out, cut the strings which bind it in the middle, +draw the cloth so it will be tight and smooth, and place it under a +weight until perfectly cold. A baking-pan holding two flatirons will +answer the purpose. Remove the cloth carefully, set the galantine in the +oven a moment to melt the fat, and wipe it off with a cloth; trim it +smooth; then brush it over with glaze (see page <a href="#GLAZE_277">277</a>), or rub it over +with beaten egg and sprinkle with crumbs and brown in the oven; or, +cover it with a chaudfroid sauce, and ornament it as shown in +illustration. The ornament of cut truffles is applied by taking each +piece on a long pin and placing it on the chaudfroid before it is quite +set. When perfectly set it is brushed over lightly with a little liquid +jelly. Galantine of chicken or game is made in the same way, except that +in small pieces they are not flattened by being put under a +weight.<a name="FNanchor_194-1_8" id="FNanchor_194-1_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_194-1_8" class="fnanchor">194-*</a></p> + +<p>A galantine is always used cold. Garnish with aspic. The water in which +it was boiled—strained and cleared—may be used for the aspic. Use a +box of gelatine to one and a half quarts of liquor.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 415px;"> +<a name="illus-192-f-3" id="illus-192-f-3" href="images/illus-192-f-3-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-192-f-3.jpg" width="415" height="190" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">GALANTINE OF TURKEY COVERED WITH CHAUDFROID SAUCE AND +DECORATED WITH TRUFFLES. (SEE PAGES <a href="#TURKEY_GALANTINE_193">193</a>, <a href="#CHAUDFROID_SAUCE_281">281</a> AND <a href="#TO_DECORATE_WITH_TRUFFLES_326">326</a>.)</span> +</div> + + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ROAST_GOOSE_194" id="ROAST_GOOSE_194"></a>ROAST GOOSE</h4> + +<p>Green geese about four months old are the best, as they get very tough +when much older. If there is any doubt about the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[195]</a></span> age of the goose, it +is better to braise than to roast it. It can be browned after it is +braised, and have the same appearance as if roasted. Dress and truss a +goose the same as a turkey; singe and wash the skin well; flatten the +breast bone by striking it with a rolling-pin. Stuff it only partly full +with mashed potato highly seasoned with onion, sage, salt, and pepper, +or with a mixture of bread, apples, onions, sage, salt and pepper, and a +little butter. Dredge the goose with salt, pepper, and a thick coating +of flour; put a little water in the pan and baste frequently. Allow +eighteen minutes to the pound for a young goose, twenty-five minutes for +an older one. Serve with goose apple sauce and a brown giblet gravy.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TAME_DUCKS_195" id="TAME_DUCKS_195"></a>TAME DUCKS</h4> + +<p>Prepare the same as geese. Stuff with the same mixture or with celery. +Roast ducklings in a hot oven twenty minutes, if liked rare; thirty +minutes if they are to be cooked through. Old ducks require an hour to +cook, and should be basted frequently. Pekin ducks, a breed of white +ducks raised in quantities on Long Island, are especially esteemed.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[196]</a></span></p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="GAME_196" id="GAME_196"></a>GAME</h3> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CANVASBACKS_196" id="CANVASBACKS_196"></a>CANVASBACKS AND REDHEAD DUCKS</h4> + +<p><span class="smcap">Carefully</span> pick, singe, and wipe the outside. Draw them, leaving on the +head, so as to distinguish them from ordinary game. Cut an opening at +the neck, and through it draw the head and neck, letting the head emerge +at the back between the drumsticks, and tie it securely in place. Do not +wash the inside. If carefully drawn they will not need it. Cut off the +wings at the second joint. Truss the ducks neatly. Sprinkle with salt +and pepper inside, and a teaspoonful of currant jelly may also be put +inside. Place them in a baking-pan with a little water, and bake in a +very hot oven from fifteen to eighteen minutes; baste frequently.</p> + +<p>Wild ducks should be very rare and served very hot, on hot plates. Each +duck makes but two portions, as the breast only is served. Serve with +duck small pieces of fried hominy and currant jelly.</p> + +<p>The Canvasback is superior in flavor to any other species of wild duck, +and is much esteemed. They have a purple head and silver breast, and are +in season from September to May. The “Redhead” closely resembles in +flavor the “Canvasback,” and often is mistaken for it.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SALMI_OF_DUCK_196" id="SALMI_OF_DUCK_196"></a>SALMI OF DUCK OR GAME</h4> + +<p>Cut the game into neat pieces; put them in the oven for five minutes to +start the juices. Put in a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter, one +half pound of bacon or salt pork cut into dice, one tablespoonful each +of chopped onion and carrot, twelve peppercorns, one saltspoonful each +of salt, thyme, and sage, and any coarse pieces of the game. Cover with +a greased paper and let cook to a glaze; then add a tablespoonful of +flour, and let it brown; then two cupfuls of stock; simmer for thirty +minutes; strain; add one quarter cupful of Madeira and the pieces of +game; cover and let simmer another thirty minutes.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[197]</a></span>This dish needs long, slow cooking and careful watching. Garnish with +croûtons and truffles.</p> + +<p>The truffles should be added to the salmi a few minutes before it is +removed from the fire. If cooked game is used for the salmi, simmer for +ten minutes only after the pieces are added to the sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="POTTED_PIGEONS_197" id="POTTED_PIGEONS_197"></a>POTTED PIGEONS (Dark Meat)</h4> + +<p>Unless pigeons are young they should be braised or stewed in broth. +Truss them carefully; place slices of bacon on the bottom of a stew-pan; +lay in the pigeons side by side, their breasts up; add a carrot and +onion cut into dice, a teaspoonful of sugar, and some parsley, and pour +over enough stock or boiling water to cover them. Cover the pot closely. +Let them simmer until they are tender, adding boiling water or stock +when necessary. Serve each pigeon on a thin piece of moistened buttered +toast.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ROAST_PIGEONS_197" id="ROAST_PIGEONS_197"></a>ROAST PIGEONS OR SQUABS</h4> + +<p>Do not roast pigeons unless they are young and tender. After they are +well trussed, or tied into shape, tie thin slices of bacon over the +breasts, and put a little piece of butter inside each pigeon. Boast them +about fifteen minutes; baste them with butter.</p> + +<p>Or split the pigeons in two through the back and breast, cover with thin +slices of salt pork, and roast them in the oven. Thicken the gravy in +the pan with a little cornstarch. Season and moisten with it slices of +toast on which the half pigeons will be served.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PRAIRIE-CHICKEN_197" id="PRAIRIE-CHICKEN_197"></a>PRAIRIE-CHICKEN OR GROUSE ROASTED (Dark Meat)</h4> + +<p>Grouse, like all game, should not be too fresh. Wash them on the outside +only, the same as directed for chicken (page <a href="#TO_BONE_A_FOWL_181">181</a>). Put a little butter +inside each bird and truss them into good shape. Roast them in a hot +oven twenty-five to thirty minutes,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[198]</a></span> basting them frequently with melted +butter. Five minutes before removing them dredge them with flour. Boil +the liver of the grouse, pound it with a little butter, pepper, and salt +to a paste; spread it over hot buttered toast moistened with juice from +the pan. Serve the grouse on the toast. Prairie-chickens have dark meat, +and many epicures declare that they should be cooked quite as rare as +canvasback ducks and that their flavor when so served is unsurpassed. +Young prairie-chickens have a much lighter meat and need not be so rare.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="QUAILS_ROASTED_198" id="QUAILS_ROASTED_198"></a>QUAILS ROASTED (White Meat)</h4> + +<p>Draw the birds carefully. Wipe them inside and out with a damp cloth; do +not wash them more than this. Truss them carefully, letting the legs +stand up instead of down, as with a chicken. Tie around each one a thin +slice of pork or bacon. Bake in a hot oven fifteen to twenty minutes. +Baste frequently, having in the pan a little butter, hot water, salt, +and pepper. Serve on slices of toast moistened with juice from the pan.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="QUAILS_BROILED_198" id="QUAILS_BROILED_198"></a>QUAILS BROILED</h4> + +<p>Split them down the back. Broil over hot coals four minutes on each +side. Baste them while broiling with a little butter. When they are done +spread them with butter, salt, and pepper; place them on slices of +slightly moistened toast, and stand them in the oven a few minutes to +soak the butter.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SNIPE_AND_WOODCOCK_198" id="SNIPE_AND_WOODCOCK_198"></a>SNIPE AND WOODCOCK (Dark Meat)</h4> + +<p>Draw the birds carefully. Wipe inside and out with a wet cloth, but do +not wash more than this, as it takes away their flavor. Cut off the +feet, and skin the lower legs, which can be done after holding them a +minute in scalding water. Skin the head, and take out the eyes. Press +the bird well together; draw around the head, and run the bill like a +skewer through the legs and body. Wrap each one in a thin slice of pork +or bacon, and bake in a hot oven for ten minutes; baste with butter.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[199]</a></span> +Chop or pound the hearts and livers to a paste. Season with salt, +pepper, onion juice, and butter. Spread the paste on slices of toast +just large enough to hold one bird. Place the croustades in the oven to +become very hot. Pour over them the juice from the dripping-pan holding +the birds. Place the birds on the toast, and serve at once. Garnish the +dish with water-cress. The croustades are better fried than toasted.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ROASTED_AND_BROILED_PARTRIDGE_199" id="ROASTED_AND_BROILED_PARTRIDGE_199"></a>ROASTED AND BROILED PARTRIDGE (White Meat)</h4> + +<p>Dress and truss the partridge the same as a chicken. Lard the breast, or +cover it with a slice of salt pork. Put into the baking-pan with the +bird one tablespoonful of butter, and two of boiling water. Roast in a +hot oven about forty minutes, basting frequently.</p> + +<p>The partridge has white meat, and so needs to be thoroughly cooked, but +not dried. Place the bird on a hot dish, and around it on the same dish +a border of coarse bread-crumbs, which have been thoroughly mixed in a +saucepan with a tablespoonful of melted butter. Serve in a sauce-boat a +white sauce or a bread sauce. If the partridge is to be broiled split it +down the back, rub it well with butter, place the inside next the coals; +cover and broil for twenty-five minutes. Keep it well moistened with +butter, and turn it to brown on the skin side a few minutes before done. +Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve on buttered toast.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="VENISON_199" id="VENISON_199"></a>VENISON</h4> + +<p>Venison is prepared and cooked the same as mutton. The roasting pieces +are the saddle, and haunch or leg. It should be cooked underdone, +allowing ten minutes to the pound. Serve with it currant jelly sauce and +salad.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="VENISON_STEAK_199" id="VENISON_STEAK_199"></a>VENISON STEAK</h4> + +<p>A venison steak is cooked in the same manner as a beefsteak. A little +melted currant jelly is served on the same dish, or as a sauce (see page +<a href="#JELLY_SAUCE_287">287</a>).<a name="FNanchor_199-1_9" id="FNanchor_199-1_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_199-1_9" class="fnanchor">199-*</a></p> + + +<div class="footnotes"> +<p><a name="Footnote_194-1_8" id="Footnote_194-1_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_194-1_8"><span class="label">194-*</span></a> A rectangular-shaped galantine may be obtained by +pressing it into a bread-tin to cool. It should then be trimmed and +incased in aspic, using the same or a slightly larger bread-tin of the +same shape. See Molding, page <a href="#TO_MOLD_JELLY_323">323</a>.—M. R.</p> + +<p><a name="Footnote_199-1_9" id="Footnote_199-1_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_199-1_9"><span class="label">199-*</span></a> The steak should be moistened with the sauce so it will +have a glazed appearance.</p> +</div> + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[200]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="Chapter_VI" id="Chapter_VI"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter VI</span><br /> +<br /> +VEGETABLES</h2> + + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="General_Directions_200" id="General_Directions_200"></a><b>General Directions.</b></span> <span class="smcap">The</span> simplest way of cooking vegetables is usually the best; +but all kinds need seasoning or to be served with a sauce. +They should be cooked only until tender. The time depends +upon their freshness. The same vegetable sometimes takes +twice the time to cook when wilted. They should be well +washed in cold water to remove all dust and insects, and if +wilted, should stand some time in it to refresh them. Green +vegetables are put into salted boiling water, and cooked +rapidly in an uncovered saucepan. This will preserve their +color. Overcooking destroys both their color and appearance. +When done they should be removed from the water at once and +be well drained before the seasoning is added.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Serving.</b></span> One vegetable only besides potato is served with a meat +course, but cauliflower, stuffed tomatoes, asparagus, green +corn, egg-plant, artichokes, or mushrooms may be served as a +separate course.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Canned Vegetables</b></span> When using canned vegetables, turn them onto a sieve or +colander, and let water from the faucet run over them in +order to remove the taste of the can which they sometimes +have.</p></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 416px;"> +<a name="illus-200-f-1" id="illus-200-f-1" href="images/illus-200-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-200-f-1.jpg" width="416" height="205" alt="See caption" title="" /></a> +<br /> +<span class="caption">VEGETABLE CUTTERS.</span> + +<ul class="illus"> + <li>1. Plane for cutting Saratoga Potatoes.</li> + <li>2. Potato Press for making potato rice.</li> + <li>3. Fluted knives for potato straws or fluted slices, and for potato curls.</li> + <li>4. Potato scoops for cutting balls.</li> +</ul> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[201]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BOILED_POTATOES_201" id="BOILED_POTATOES_201"></a>BOILED POTATOES</h4> + +<p>Wash the potatoes well; take off only a thin paring, and drop them at +once into cold water to prevent their discoloring. Have them of uniform +size, or cut the larger ones into pieces the size of the small ones, so +they will all be cooked at the same time, for after a potato is cooked +it rapidly absorbs water and becomes soggy. If the potatoes are old or +withered, put them on to cook in cold water; if fresh and firm, put them +into boiling salted water, and boil slowly about thirty minutes, or +until they can be easily pierced with a fork. Then at once drain off +every drop of water; shake them in the pot a moment to expose all sides +to the air; sprinkle with a little salt; cover the pot with a double +cloth, and place it on the back of the range for a few minutes to +evaporate all the moisture. If treated in this way the potatoes will be +dry and mealy.</p> + +<p>Violent boiling is likely to break the outside surface and make them +ragged in appearance.</p> + +<p>New potatoes are boiled with the skins on.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MASHED_POTATOES_201" id="MASHED_POTATOES_201"></a>MASHED POTATOES</h4> + +<p>After the potatoes are boiled and dried as directed above, mash them at +once over the fire and in the same pot in which they were boiled, so +that they will lose no heat. Season them with salt, butter, and cream or +milk; heat the milk and butter together; add them slowly, and beat the +potatoes well with a fork or an egg-beater until they are very light and +white. Turn them into a hot dish. Do not smooth the top.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="POTATO_CAKES_201" id="POTATO_CAKES_201"></a>POTATO CAKES</h4> + +<p>Mashed potato left over may be used for cakes. Add an egg to a cupful +and a half of potato and beat them well together until light; form it +into cakes or balls; roll them in flour and sauté in butter, or spread +the mixture in a layer one inch thick; cut it into strips or squares and +sauté; or put it into a well-buttered border mold; cover with greased +paper, and bake for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[202]</a></span> half an hour in a moderate oven. Let it stand in +the mold for ten minutes; then turn onto a dish, and fill the center +with any mince or with creamed fish. Mashed potato without egg will not +hold its form when molded.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="POTATO_RICE_202" id="POTATO_RICE_202"></a>POTATO RICE</h4> + +<p>Press well-seasoned mashed potatoes through a colander or a potato press +onto the center of a dish, leaving the little flakes lightly piled up. +Serve chops or minced meat around the mound of potato.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="POTATO_SOUFFLE_202" id="POTATO_SOUFFLE_202"></a>POTATO SOUFFLÉ</h4> + +<p>To two cupfuls of smooth, well-seasoned, and quite moist mashed potatoes +add the yolks of two eggs. When a little cooled stir in lightly the +whites of two eggs beaten very stiff. Put the whole into a pudding-dish, +and brown it in a quick oven.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="POTATO_ROSES_202" id="POTATO_ROSES_202"></a>POTATO ROSES</h4> + +<p>To two cupfuls of well-seasoned mashed potatoes, add the yolks of two +eggs and white of one, and beat them well together. Place it in a pastry +bag with a tube having a star-shaped opening (see <a href="#illus-200-f-2">illustration</a>), and +press it through. As the potato comes from the tube, guide it in a +circle, winding it around until it comes to a point. The little piles of +potato will resemble roses. Touch them lightly with a brush dipped in +egg, and place a bit of butter on each one. Put them in the oven a +moment to brown slightly. The edges touched by the egg will take a +deeper color. Potato roses make a good garnish for meat dishes.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 424px;"> +<a name="illus-200-f-2" id="illus-200-f-2" href="images/illus-200-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-200-f-2.jpg" width="424" height="201" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">POTATO ROSES. (SEE PAGE <a href="#POTATO_ROSES_202">202</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="POTATO_CROQUETTES_202" id="POTATO_CROQUETTES_202"></a>POTATO CROQUETTES</h4> + +<p>To two cupfuls of well-seasoned mashed potatoes add the beaten yolks of +two eggs, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, one and a half +tablespoonfuls of butter (if none has been used in seasoning), a dash of +cayenne and nutmeg; stir over the fire until the potato leaves the sides +of the pan. When cold, form it into small croquettes, roll them in egg +and bread-crumbs and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[203]</a></span> fry them in hot fat to an amber color. Serve on a +napkin (see frying croquettes, page <a href="#TO_FRY_CROQUETTES_294">294</a>). The croquette mixture may be +made into balls enclosing minced meat. When used in this way serve with +it a white sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="POTATO_BALLS_203" id="POTATO_BALLS_203"></a>POTATO BALLS</h4> + +<p>With a potato scoop (see <a href="#illus-200-f-1">illustration</a>) cut balls out of peeled raw +potatoes, and drop them in cold water for half an hour. Put them into +salted boiling water and boil for fifteen minutes, or until tender; +drain off the water; cover with a cloth and let stand on the back of the +range until dry. Serve them on a napkin, or pour over them white sauce, +and sprinkle with parsley, or use them as a garnish. The pieces of +potato left from cutting the balls can be boiled and mashed, so there is +no waste.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="POTATO_OMELET_203" id="POTATO_OMELET_203"></a>POTATO OMELET</h4> + +<p>Cut cold boiled potatoes into dice a quarter of an inch square; mix them +with enough white sauce to well moisten them.</p> + +<p>Place a tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan; when the butter is hot, +put in the potatoes and sauté them until browned on the bottom, loosen +them from the pan, and turn them like an omelet onto a flat dish; or +this preparation may be put in a baking-dish, sprinkled with crumbs and +grated cheese, then put in the oven to brown, and served in the same +dish.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CREAMED_POTATOES_203" id="CREAMED_POTATOES_203"></a>CREAMED POTATOES</h4> + +<p>Cut cold boiled potatoes that are a little underdone into dice or into +slices one eighth of an inch thick. Put them in a saucepan with enough +milk or cream to cover them, and cook until the potatoes have absorbed +nearly all the milk; then to every two cupfuls of potato add one +tablespoonful of butter, one half teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper, +and, just before serving, a teaspoonful of parsley chopped very fine; or +a white sauce may be made, using cream, if convenient, and the potatoes +placed in it just long enough to heat them; or a cream sauce may be +poured over hot boiled potatoes; then sprinkle with parsley.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[204]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BROILED_POTATOES_204" id="BROILED_POTATOES_204"></a>BROILED POTATOES</h4> + +<p>Peel and cut the potatoes lengthwise into slices one quarter of an inch +thick. Broil them on both sides over moderate heat until tender; spread +each slice with butter, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Serve very +hot.</p> + +<p>Or, use cold boiled potatoes. Dip each slice in melted butter; sprinkle +with pepper and salt and broil three minutes on each side.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BAKED_POTATOES_204" id="BAKED_POTATOES_204"></a>BAKED POTATOES</h4> + +<p>Select large potatoes of uniform size and shape. Wash and scrub them +with a brush. Bake them in a hot oven about an hour, or until soft; +press them to see if done, but do not pierce them with a fork; when soft +break the skin in one place, and serve at once on a napkin. They become +watery if kept.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STUFFED_POTATOES_204" id="STUFFED_POTATOES_204"></a>STUFFED POTATOES</h4> + +<p>Select potatoes of equal size and shape, wash and scrub them well and +bake them. While they are still hot cut a piece off the top of each, and +with a spoon scoop out the potato, leaving the skin unbroken. Mash and +season the potato, using a little hot milk and beating it well to make +it light. Fill the potato skins with the mashed potato, letting it rise +a little above the top of the skin. Place a piece of butter on the top +of each, and put them in the oven to get well heated and slightly brown +the tops; or cut the baked potatoes in two, lengthwise, and when the +skins are filled, smooth the potato even with the skin; brush them with +egg and set in the oven to glaze. (See <a href="#illus-200-f-3">illustration</a>.)</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 423px;"> +<a name="illus-200-f-3" id="illus-200-f-3" href="images/illus-200-f-3-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-200-f-3.jpg" width="423" height="201" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">STUFFED BAKED POTATOES. (SEE PAGE <a href="#STUFFED_POTATOES_204">204</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="POTATOES_BAKED_WITH_MEAT_204" id="POTATOES_BAKED_WITH_MEAT_204"></a>POTATOES BAKED WITH MEAT</h4> + +<p>Pare the potatoes, and place them in the dripping-pan with the meat one +hour before the meat is to be removed. Baste them with the drippings, +and turn so all sides will be browned.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="LYONNAISE_POTATOES_204" id="LYONNAISE_POTATOES_204"></a>LYONNAISE POTATOES</h4> + +<p>Put one and a half tablespoonfuls of butter in a frying-pan. When melted +add a scant tablespoonful of chopped onion; let it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[205]</a></span> slightly color, then +add two cupfuls of cold boiled potatoes cut into dice. Stir until the +potato has absorbed all the butter, and become slightly browned; then +sprinkle with salt, pepper, and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Mix +well, and serve very hot.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRIED_POTATOES_205" id="FRIED_POTATOES_205"></a>FRIED POTATOES</h4> + +<p>Cold boiled potatoes are sliced, then put into a sauté-pan with butter, +and cooked until browned on both sides. If rolled in flour they will +form a crisp crust. Raw potatoes are sliced or cut into any shape, and +put into cold water for half an hour. They are then well dried on a +napkin, and immersed in hot fat until done. Too many must not be put in +the basket at once, as it cools the fat (see frying, page <a href="#FRYING_72">72</a>). Fry them +to an amber color; then drain, and place them on a paper in the oven +until all are done. Serve them at once, as they lose their crispness if +kept.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRIED_POTATO_BALLS_205" id="FRIED_POTATO_BALLS_205"></a>FRIED POTATO BALLS AND STRAWS</h4> + +<p>To make balls use a potato scoop; press it well into the potato before +turning it. To make straws cut the potato into slices lengthwise, and +then into strips, making each one about one eighth of an inch thick.</p> + +<p>Slices or strips cut with a fluted knife are good forms for fried +potatoes. Fry the potatoes in hot fat, using a basket. Fancy fried +potatoes are used to garnish any broiled meat dish. There are many kinds +of cutters to give different shapes to potatoes.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SARATOGA_POTATOES_205" id="SARATOGA_POTATOES_205"></a>SARATOGA POTATOES</h4> + +<p>Cut the potatoes with a plane into slices as thin as paper if possible. +Let them soak in cold water for a little time to wash out the starch; +then put them into fresh water with a piece of ice to thoroughly chill +them. Drain a few of the slices at a time, dry them on a napkin; put +them in a frying basket and immerse them in smoking-hot fat. Keep them +separated, and remove as soon as slightly colored. Turn them into a +colander<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[206]</a></span> to drain, and sprinkle them with salt. When the second lot are +fried turn those in the colander onto a paper in the open oven, and so +on until all are done. Saratoga potatoes should be perfectly dry and +crisp. They may be used hot or cold, and will keep for some time in a +dry place. If wanted hot, place them in the oven a moment before +serving.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PUFFED_OR_SOUFFLE_POTATOES_206" id="PUFFED_OR_SOUFFLE_POTATOES_206"></a>PUFFED OR SOUFFLÉ POTATOES</h4> + +<p>Peel the potatoes; cut the sides square, and trim off the corners, so as +to give an oval shape. With one even cut slice them one eighth of an +inch thick the length of the potato; they must be all the same size and +shape. Soak them in cold water for half an hour; dry them on a napkin, +and fry them in fat which is only moderately hot until they are soft, +but not colored. Remove and place them on a sieve to drain and cool. +Then immerse them in hot fat, when they will puff into balls. Toss the +basket, and remove any that do not puff. Sprinkle with salt, and serve +them on a napkin, or as a garnish. Holland potatoes best suit this +purpose; it is impossible to get the same result with most of the other +varieties.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SWEET_POTATOES_206" id="SWEET_POTATOES_206"></a>SWEET POTATOES</h4> + +<p>Wash and scrub the potatoes; put them in boiling water, and cook until +they can be pierced with a fork; then pour off the water. Cover the pot +with a cloth, and draw it to the side of the range to let the potatoes +steam for ten minutes. Peel them before serving.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BAKED_SWEET_POTATOES_206" id="BAKED_SWEET_POTATOES_206"></a>BAKED SWEET POTATOES</h4> + +<p>Wash and scrub the potatoes without breaking the skin. Bake until soft; +then break the skin in one place, and serve at once.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BROWNED_SWEET_POTATOES_206" id="BROWNED_SWEET_POTATOES_206"></a>BROWNED SWEET POTATOES</h4> + +<p>Cut cold boiled potatoes into slices one quarter of an inch thick. +Sprinkle them with salt and pepper; spread with butter, and sprinkle +with sugar. Place them in a hot oven to brown.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[207]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SWEET_POTATO_CROQUETTES_207" id="SWEET_POTATO_CROQUETTES_207"></a>SWEET POTATO CROQUETTES</h4> + +<p>Follow the rule for potato croquettes given on page <a href="#POTATO_CROQUETTES_202">202</a>.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe">S<a name="SWEET_POTATO_PUREE_207" id="SWEET_POTATO_PUREE_207"></a>WEET POTATO PURÉE</h4> + +<p>Mash thoroughly the boiled potatoes, and season them well with salt, +pepper, and butter; add enough hot milk to moisten them. Serve it the +same as mashed white potato; or put it in a pudding-dish, brush the top +with egg, and brown it in the oven. Serve with it a tomato sauce, and +use as a luncheon dish. Either boiled or baked potatoes may be used.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STEWED_TOMATOES_207" id="STEWED_TOMATOES_207"></a>STEWED TOMATOES</h4> + +<p>If fresh tomatoes are used remove the skins by placing them in boiling +water a few minutes; they will then peel off easily. Cut them in pieces, +and stew in a granite-ware saucepan until tender. To one quart of +tomatoes add one teaspoonful each of salt and sugar, one quarter +teaspoonful of pepper, and a tablespoonful of butter. Thicken with a +teaspoonful of cornstarch wet in cold water, or with one half cupful of +cracker or bread-crumbs.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SCALLOPED_TOMATOES_207" id="SCALLOPED_TOMATOES_207"></a>SCALLOPED TOMATOES</h4> + +<p>Season a can of tomatoes with one teaspoonful of salt, and one quarter +teaspoonful of pepper. Spread a shallow baking dish with a thin layer of +bread-crumbs; pour in the tomatoes, sprinkle over them a tablespoonful +of sugar, and a few drops of onion juice. Cover the top with a cupful of +bread-crumbs which have been moistened with a tablespoonful of melted +butter. Bake in a hot oven for fifteen minutes. Serve in the same dish.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STUFFED_TOMATOES_207" id="STUFFED_TOMATOES_207"></a>STUFFED TOMATOES</h4> + +<p>Select large, firm tomatoes; do not remove the skins; cut a small slice +off the stem end, and scoop out the inside. Fill them with a stuffing +made as follows: Put one tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan; when hot +add one tablespoonful of onion chopped fine. Let it color slightly; then +add three quarters of a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[208]</a></span> cupful of any minced meat, chicken, or livers, +one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, one cupful of bread-crumbs, the +pulp taken from the tomatoes, one teaspoonful of salt, one quarter +teaspoonful of pepper, and also an egg if desired. Stir it over the fire +until it is consistent. Dust the inside of the tomatoes with salt and +pepper, and fill them, letting the stuffing rise half an inch above the +tomato, and place a piece of butter on it. The above amount of stuffing +is enough for eight tomatoes. Cut slices of bread one half inch thick +into circles the size of the <a name="corr17" id="corr17"></a>tomatoes; dip them quickly in water, and +place in a baking-pan. Place a tomato on each piece of bread, and bake +in oven about fifteen minutes, or until the stuffing is browned. A brown +sauce may be served with this dish. The meat may be omitted from the +stuffing if desired. If convenient it is better to use oil instead of +butter with tomatoes.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ROASTED_TOMATOES_208" id="ROASTED_TOMATOES_208"></a>ROASTED TOMATOES</h4> + +<p>Peel the tomatoes; cut a piece off the top, and remove a little of the +pulp. Put a piece of butter or a few drops of oil in each one; dust with +salt and pepper, replace the top, sprinkle it with crumbs, pepper, and +salt. Put a small piece of butter or a little oil on each one, and place +on a slice of bread. Bake in oven fifteen to twenty minutes.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BROILED_TOMATOES_208" id="BROILED_TOMATOES_208"></a>BROILED TOMATOES</h4> + +<p>Cut the tomatoes horizontally in two; leave the skins on. Place them on +a broiler with the skin side down; dust with salt and pepper, and broil, +without turning, over a moderate fire fifteen to twenty minutes, or +until tender. Lay them on a hot dish, and spread each piece with either +butter, oil, maître d’hôtel sauce, hot Mayonnaise or Béarnaise; or the +tomatoes may be cut into thick slices, covered with oil, and then +broiled, turning frequently.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TOMATO_FARCI_208" id="TOMATO_FARCI_208"></a>TOMATO FARCI</h4> + +<p>Cut the tomatoes in halves; place them in a frying-pan, the open side +down, in one half inch deep of hot fat. Move them<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[209]</a></span> about until they are +cooked a little tender. Then lift them carefully without breaking, and +place them side by side in a baking-dish. Pour a little sweet oil around +them; sprinkle with chopped garlic, and parsley, salt, pepper, and +cayenne. Bake in hot oven fifteen to twenty minutes. Serve in same dish.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="GREEN_PEAS_209" id="GREEN_PEAS_209"></a>GREEN PEAS</h4> + +<p>The flavor of peas, and also the time required for cooking them, depends +very much upon their freshness. Put them into salted boiling water, and +do not cover the saucepan; boil ten to twenty minutes, or until soft +enough to be easily mashed. Drain off the water, and season with pepper, +salt, and butter. Mix in the seasoning carefully with a fork, so as not +to break the peas. Sometimes a little sugar improves them. Use plenty of +water in boiling, and do not let them be overcooked, as this is as bad a +fault as having them underdone. When canned peas are used turn them onto +a sieve, and rinse them off with cold water (this will remove the taste +of the can, which they sometimes have); add the seasoning, and let them +become thoroughly heated. They do not require any more cooking.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PUREE_OF_PEAS_209" id="PUREE_OF_PEAS_209"></a>PURÉE OF PEAS</h4> + +<p>Boil the peas until very tender; mash and press them through a sieve. +Place them again in the saucepan, and stir into them enough hot milk, +pepper and salt, to well moisten and season them; add also some butter, +and a very little sugar.</p> + +<p>Dried peas may be used in this way, but require soaking and long +boiling. The purée makes a pretty garnish pressed through a pastry bag +like potato roses (see page <a href="#POTATO_ROSES_202">202</a>), or into a fancy border around a dish.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 419px;"> +<a name="illus-210-f-1" id="illus-210-f-1" href="images/illus-210-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-210-f-1.jpg" width="419" height="201" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">FORMS OF PURÉE FOR GARNISHING. (SEE PAGES <a href="#PUREE_OF_PEAS_209">209</a>, <a href="#FLAGEOLETS_210">210</a>, AND +<a href="#PUREE_DRIED_BEANS_217">217</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STRING_BEANS_209" id="STRING_BEANS_209"></a>STRING BEANS</h4> + +<p>Remove carefully all the strings; cut the beans into one-quarter inch +pieces, laying a number together, and cutting them at one time; or cut +each bean lengthwise into four strips, and lay them evenly together. +Place them in salted boiling water, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[210]</a></span> boil uncovered until tender; +drain off the water, and season with salt, pepper, and butter, or mix +with them just enough white sauce (page <a href="#WHITE_SAUCE_277">277</a>) to coat them well.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FLAGEOLETS_210" id="FLAGEOLETS_210"></a>FLAGEOLETS</h4> + +<p>If the dried beans are used soak them several hours in cold water; then +throw them into salted boiling water, and boil until tender, but not +soft enough to break. Use plenty of water in boiling them, and drain +well. Season with butter, salt, and pepper. If cooked right the beans +will be glossy. They are good also as a purée, the same as purée of peas +(see page <a href="#PUREE_OF_PEAS_209">209</a>).</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="LIMA_BEANS_210" id="LIMA_BEANS_210"></a>LIMA BEANS</h4> + +<p>Put them into salted boiling water, and cook until tender, then drain +off the water. Moisten them with butter, and season with salt and +pepper; and add, if convenient, a little hot cream, or cover with white +sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SPINACH_210" id="SPINACH_210"></a>SPINACH</h4> + +<p>Put a half peck of spinach into cold water to freshen; pick it over +carefully, removing all the wilted and yellow leaves. Pass it through +five changes of water to free it from grit. Put it in a saucepan; enough +water will cling to it for the cooking. Cover the saucepan; stir +occasionally so it does not burn. After fifteen minutes add a +tablespoonful of salt, and cook five minutes longer; then turn it into a +colander to drain; when it is dry chop it very fine. Put into a saucepan +one and a half tablespoonfuls of butter, and one tablespoonful of flour. +After they are a little cooked add a teaspoonful of salt, dash of +pepper, and the spinach. Cook five minutes; then add a half cupful of +cream or milk, and cook another five minutes. Stir constantly, to +prevent burning. Taste to see if the seasoning is right. Serve either in +a vegetable dish, or in the center of a dish with chops around it, or in +bread boxes as shown in illustration; or press the spinach into +individual timbale molds, place each form on a square of toast, and +garnish the top of each one in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[211]</a></span> imitation of a daisy by placing in the +center some of the yolks of hard-boiled eggs which have been pressed +through a sieve, and around this center a circle of the whites of the +eggs chopped fine; or a thick slice of hard-boiled egg may be pressed +into the top of each mold.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 420px;"> +<a name="illus-210-f-2" id="illus-210-f-2" href="images/illus-210-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-210-f-2.jpg" width="420" height="198" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">SPINACH SERVED IN CROUSTADES OR BREAD-BOXES.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SPINACH_SOUFFLE_211" id="SPINACH_SOUFFLE_211"></a>SPINACH SOUFFLÉ</h4> + +<p>Take a cupful of spinach which has been prepared as directed above (any +that is left over can be utilized in this way); mix with it the beaten +yolk of an egg, and stir it over the fire until the egg is set. Let it +cool. When ready to serve stir into it lightly the well-beaten whites of +three eggs. Fill individual china cups or buttered paper boxes half +full, and place them in a hot oven for ten to fifteen minutes. Serve at +once. Like any soufflé, it will fall if not sufficiently baked, or if +not served very promptly.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHARTREUSE_OF_SPINACH_211" id="CHARTREUSE_OF_SPINACH_211"></a>CHARTREUSE OF SPINACH OR OF CABBAGE</h4> + +<p>Boil a large carrot and turnip; cut them into slices lengthwise three +eighths of an inch thick, then into strips of the same width. Butter +well a tin basin, with slightly flaring sides, or a plain mold. Ornament +the bottom with hard-boiled egg, or with fancy pieces of the vegetables. +Around the sides of the mold place close together alternate strips of +the carrot and turnip. If the mold is well buttered they will easily +hold in place. Fill the center with spinach or with seasoned chopped +cabbage, and press it down so it is quite firm; smooth the top and cut +off the strips of vegetable so that they are even. Heat the chartreuse +by placing the mold in a pan of hot water and putting both in the oven +for a few minutes. Turn the chartreuse on a flat dish to serve. A white +or a vinaigrette sauce goes well with this dish. Birds, veal cutlets, +chops, chicken, or sweetbreads may be placed on top of the chartreuse if +desired.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 420px;"> +<a name="illus-210-f-3" id="illus-210-f-3" href="images/illus-210-f-3-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-210-f-3.jpg" width="420" height="198" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">CHARTREUSE OF SPINACH. (SEE PAGES <a href="#CHARTREUSE_83">83</a> AND <a href="#CHARTREUSE_OF_SPINACH_211">211</a>.)<br /> + +Border of alternate strips of carrot and turnip. Top circles of carrot +and turnip.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ASPARAGUS_211" id="ASPARAGUS_211"></a>ASPARAGUS</h4> + +<p>Scrape the stalks; let them stand in cold water for half an hour; tie +them again into a bundle and make them uniform in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[212]</a></span> length; put them into +salted boiling water and cook about twenty minutes or until tender, but +not so soft as to be limp. Place the asparagus on buttered toast and +remove the string. Serve with the asparagus, but separately, plain +melted butter, a white, or a Hollandaise sauce. Cold boiled asparagus is +served as a salad with plain French dressing (see page <a href="#FRENCH_DRESSING_375">375</a>) or with cold +Béarnaise sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ASPARAGUS_TIPS_212" id="ASPARAGUS_TIPS_212"></a>ASPARAGUS TIPS</h4> + +<p>Cut the asparagus stalks into pieces about an inch long, and as far down +as tender. Cook them in salted boiling water. Drain and stir into them +just enough white sauce to well coat them.</p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="CABBAGE_212" id="CABBAGE_212"></a>CABBAGE</h3> + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Cabbage.</b></span> <span class="smcap">Four</span> vegetables are the result of the cabbage plant by +cultivation. As the rose changes its character under the +hand of the floriculturist, so it is with cabbage at the +hand of the gardener. First is the cabbage, which is the +leafy bud that stores up food for a flower the next year. +<span class="sidenote"><b>Cauliflower.</b></span> Second, the cauliflower, which is a cluster (corymb) of +forced cabbage flowers. <span class="sidenote"><b><br />Brussels sprouts.</b></span> Third, Brussels sprouts. The leaves +are picked off, and small buds form along the stem; and +fourth, kohlrabi, which is the leaves turned into a fleshy +tuberous-like vegetable. <span class="sidenote"><b><br /><br />Kohlrabi.</b></span> In these results two of the phases, +cauliflower and Brussels sprouts, are much esteemed, and are +given rank with the best vegetables, while cabbage and kohlrabi +have little favor, and are considered coarse and vulgar foods. +The cabbage, however, if properly cooked, will be found an +exceedingly palatable vegetable, which very closely resembles +cauliflower. +</p></div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BOILED_CABBAGE_212" id="BOILED_CABBAGE_212"></a>BOILED CABBAGE</h4> + +<p>If this receipt is exactly followed, this much-despised vegetable will +be found very acceptable, and its odor will not be per<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[213]</a></span>ceptible through +the house. Cut the cabbage into good-sized pieces, take off the outside +leaves, and cut away the hard core. Wash it well in two changes of +water, and place the pieces, open side down, on a colander to drain. +Have a very generous amount of water in a large saucepan or pot; let it +boil violently; add a tablespoonful of salt and one quarter teaspoonful +of baking soda; put in the cabbage, one piece at a time, so as to check +the boiling as little as possible. Let it cook for twenty-five minutes +uncovered and boiling rapidly all the time. Push the cabbage under the +water every five minutes. Turn it into a colander and press out all the +water. Put into a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter, a heaping +teaspoonful of flour, one half teaspoonful of salt and a dash of pepper; +add slowly one half cupful of milk, and stir till smooth; then add the +cabbage. Cut it into large pieces with a knife, and mix it lightly with +the sauce. If the cabbage is free from water the sauce will adhere to it +and form a creamy coating.</p> + +<p>This receipt of Catherine Owen has been found most satisfactory.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CABBAGE_WITH_CHEESE_213" id="CABBAGE_WITH_CHEESE_213"></a>CABBAGE WITH CHEESE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(<i>Very Good.</i>)</p> + +<p>Boil the cabbage as directed above. Press out all the water and chop it. +Make a white sauce of one tablespoonful each of butter and flour, one +cupful of milk, one half teaspoonful of salt, dash of cayenne (see page +<a href="#WHITE_SAUCE_277">277</a>). Spread a layer of cabbage on the bottom of a pudding-dish; cover +it with white sauce; then add a layer of grated cheese. Make a second +layer of cabbage, sauce, and cheese; cover the top with a layer of +crumbs moistened with butter, and place it in the oven. When the sauce +bubbles through the crumbs it is done. Serve in same dish.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SWEDISH_CABBAGE_213" id="SWEDISH_CABBAGE_213"></a>SWEDISH CABBAGE</h4> + +<p>Slice the cabbage into thin shreds as for cold slaw; cook it in a +generous amount of rapidly boiling water for fifteen minutes; then drain +off the water; cover it with milk; add salt, pepper, and a bit of mace, +and cook until tender, and until the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[214]</a></span> milk has boiled away so that it +only moistens the cabbage. Add a piece of butter, and serve.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="HOT_SLAW_214" id="HOT_SLAW_214"></a>HOT SLAW</h4> + +<p>Cut the cabbage into thin shreds as for cold slaw. (Use a plane if +convenient.) Boil it until tender in salted fast-boiling water. Drain it +thoroughly, and pour over it a hot sauce made of one tablespoonful of +butter, one half teaspoonful of salt, dash of pepper and of cayenne, and +one half to one cupful of vinegar, according to its strength. Cover the +saucepan and let it stand on the side of the range for five minutes, so +that the cabbage and sauce will become well incorporated.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BRUSSELS_SPROUTS_214" id="BRUSSELS_SPROUTS_214"></a>BRUSSELS SPROUTS</h4> + +<p>Remove any wilted leaves from the outside of the sprouts, and let them +stand in cold salted water from fifteen to twenty minutes, so that any +insects there may be in them will come out. Put the sprouts into salted, +rapidly boiling water, and cook uncovered fifteen or twenty minutes, or +until tender, but not until they lose their shape. Drain them thoroughly +in a colander; then place them in a saucepan with butter, pepper, and +salt, and toss them until seasoned; or mix them lightly with just enough +white sauce to coat them.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CAULIFLOWER_214" id="CAULIFLOWER_214"></a>CAULIFLOWER</h4> + +<p>Trim off the outside leaves and cut the stalk even with the flower. Let +it stand upside down in cold salted water for fifteen or twenty minutes +to take out any insects there may be in it. Put it into a generous +quantity of rapidly boiling salted water and cook it uncovered about +twenty minutes or until tender, but not so soft as to fall to pieces. +Remove any scum from the water before lifting out the cauliflower. If +not perfectly white, rub a little white sauce over it. Serve with it a +white, a Béchamel, or a Hollandaise sauce; or it may be served as a +garnish to chicken, sweetbreads, etc., the little bunches being broken +off and mixed with white sauce.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[215]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CAULIFLOWER_AU_GRATIN_215" id="CAULIFLOWER_AU_GRATIN_215"></a>CAULIFLOWER AU GRATIN</h4> + +<p>Break the boiled cauliflower into small flowerets. Place them in a +pudding-dish in alternate layers with white sauce and grated cheese. +Cover the top with crumbs moistened with butter, and bake until the +sauce bubbles through the crumbs.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="EGG-PLANT_215" id="EGG-PLANT_215"></a>EGG-PLANT</h4> + +<p>Cut the egg-plant into slices one quarter of an inch thick, after +removing the skin. Sprinkle the slices with salt. Pile them one upon +another on the back of a dish. Place on them a plate holding a weight; +let it stand one hour to express the juice. Dip the slices in egg and +crumbs, or in egg and flour, and sauté on both sides in lard or +drippings.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STUFFED_EGG-PLANT_215" id="STUFFED_EGG-PLANT_215"></a>STUFFED EGG-PLANT</h4> + +<p>Boil an egg-plant twenty to thirty minutes, or until tender. Cut it in +two lengthwise, and take out the pulp, using care not to break the skin. +Mash the pulp, and season it with butter, salt, and pepper; replace it +in the skins; sprinkle with bread-crumbs moistened in butter, and place +in the oven to brown.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STUFFED_PEPPERS_215" id="STUFFED_PEPPERS_215"></a>STUFFED PEPPERS</h4> + +<p>Use green sweet peppers of uniform size. Cut a piece off the stem end, +or cut them in two lengthwise, and remove the seeds and partitions. Put +them in boiling water for five minutes to parboil. Fill each one with a +stuffing made of equal parts of softened bread-crumbs and minced meat +well seasoned with salt, butter, and a few drops of onion juice. Place +them in a baking-dish with water, or better stock, half an inch deep, +and bake in a moderate oven for half an hour. Serve them in the same +dish if a suitable one is used; if not, remove them carefully to another +dish.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHESTNUT_PUREE_215" id="CHESTNUT_PUREE_215"></a>CHESTNUT PURÉE</h4> + +<p>Remove the shells; boil ten minutes; then drain and remove the skins. +Put them in boiling salted water, and cook until ten<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[216]</a></span>der; then drain, +mash, and press them through a colander. Season with butter, salt, and +pepper; moisten with cream, or milk, or stock.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CELERY_STEWED_216" id="CELERY_STEWED_216"></a>CELERY STEWED</h4> + +<p>Cut the celery into pieces one inch long. Boil in salted water until +tender; drain and mix with a white sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CELERY_AU_JUS_216" id="CELERY_AU_JUS_216"></a>CELERY AU JUS</h4> + +<p>Cut heads of celery into pieces six inches long, leaving them attached +to the root; remove the coarse branches, and trim the roots neatly. +Parboil it for five minutes. Make a brown roux, using two tablespoonfuls +each of butter and flour, one teaspoonful of salt, and one quarter +teaspoonful of pepper, and dash of nutmeg. Add two cupfuls of stock when +the roux is well browned; and in this, place the bunches of celery; +cover and cook very slowly for twenty-five minutes. Remove the celery, +and place it evenly on a dish. Strain the gravy; pour it around or over +the celery.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CARROTS_AND_TURNIPS_216" id="CARROTS_AND_TURNIPS_216"></a>CARROTS AND TURNIPS</h4> + +<p>Cut carrots and turnips into dice one quarter of an inch square, or with +a small potato scoop cut them into balls. Boil them separately in salted +water; drain and mix them carefully together. Stir lightly into them +enough white sauce to moisten them well.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MACEDOINE_OF_VEGETABLES_216" id="MACEDOINE_OF_VEGETABLES_216"></a>MACÉDOINE OF VEGETABLES</h4> + +<p>Cut a carrot and turnip into half inch dice, or with small +vegetable-cutters cut them into fancy shapes or into small balls. Mix +them in about equal proportions with green peas, flageolet beans, +string-beans cut into half inch lengths, and small pieces of +cauliflower. The vegetables should be boiled separately and well drained +before being put together, and when prepared should be mixed lightly so +as not to break<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[217]</a></span> them, and seasoned with butter, pepper, and salt, or be +moistened with a Béchamel or a cream sauce. The macédoine may be used as +a garnish for meat, or can be served separately in a vegetable dish. +This mixture of vegetables may also be used for a salad. Sometimes the +vegetables, instead of being mixed together, are placed in separate +piles around the meat or on a flat dish, and then give a good effect of +color.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="DRIED_BEANS_217" id="DRIED_BEANS_217"></a>DRIED BEANS</h4> + +<p class="subtitle"><a name="BOILED_DRIED_BEANS_217" id="BOILED_DRIED_BEANS_217"></a>BOILED, <a name="BAKED_DRIED_BEANS_217" id="BAKED_DRIED_BEANS_217"></a>BAKED, <a name="PUREE_DRIED_BEANS_217" id="PUREE_DRIED_BEANS_217"></a>PURÉE, <a name="CROQUETTES_DRIED_BEANS_217" id="CROQUETTES_DRIED_BEANS_217"></a>CROQUETTES</p> + +<p>Wash the beans, and soak them over night. Boil them slowly until tender, +changing the water several times. They are improved in flavor by boiling +with them a small piece of salt pork, a bay-leaf, and onion. If they are +to be baked remove them from the water when the skin will break easily; +put them in a pipkin or bean pot, bury in them a piece of salt pork with +the rind scored; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Pour over them a +tablespoonful of molasses, and enough salted water to cover them. Cover +the pot closely, and place it in a slow oven to cook for six to eight +hours.</p> + +<p>For a purée, boil the beans until tender; mash them through a colander. +Season with butter, salt, and pepper; and add enough cream or stock to +make them the right consistency. This is called “Purée Bretonne.” To use +it for a garnish, press it through a pastry bag into forms like potato +roses (see page <a href="#POTATO_ROSES_202">202</a>), or put it into small fontage cups (see page <a href="#FONTAGE_CUPS_300">300</a>), +or on thin pieces of toast the size of a silver dollar. To make +croquettes add a beaten egg to the purée, form it into small croquettes, +roll them in egg and crumbs, and fry in hot fat.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BEETS_217" id="BEETS_217"></a>BEETS</h4> + +<p>Wash beets well, but do not break the skin, or they will lose their +color in boiling. Cook for one hour if young, for two to three hours if +old. When done throw them into cold water, and remove the skins. Season +with butter, salt, and pepper. Serve them whole if small; cut into +slices if large.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[218]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SUMMER_SQUASH_218" id="SUMMER_SQUASH_218"></a>SUMMER SQUASH</h4> + +<p>Wash; cut into small pieces; cook in salted boiling water for twenty +minutes, or until tender. Drain thoroughly; mash, and press out all the +water. Season with butter, pepper, salt, and cream if convenient.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PARSNIPS_218" id="PARSNIPS_218"></a>PARSNIPS</h4> + +<p>Boil the parsnips one hour, or until tender; throw them in cold water, +and remove the skins. Cut them in slices lengthwise one quarter of an +inch thick. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Dip in melted butter; then +roll in flour, and sauté on both sides until browned. Or mash the boiled +parsnips; season, and stir into them one tablespoonful of flour and one +egg to bind them; form into small cakes, and sauté in drippings until +browned on both sides.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CUCUMBERS_218" id="CUCUMBERS_218"></a>CUCUMBERS</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">BOILED, STUFFED</p> + +<p>Boiled: Peel the cucumbers, and cut them lengthwise into quarters. Boil +them in salted water until tender. Make a white sauce (page <a href="#WHITE_SAUCE_277">277</a>), using +cream instead of milk, if convenient. Place the well-drained cucumbers +in the sauce, to be heated through; then sprinkle with chopped parsley, +and serve.</p> + +<p><a name="Stuffed_218" id="Stuffed_218"></a>Stuffed: Select large cucumbers of uniform size. Cut them in two +lengthwise. With a spoon remove carefully the seeds, and fill the place +with a stuffing made of equal parts of minced chicken, or any meat, and +soft crumbs, seasoned, and moistened with one egg and a little stock. +Round it over the top, and sprinkle with crumbs. Place the pieces in a +pan with enough stock to cover the pan one half inch deep. Cook in a +moderate oven one hour, or until the cucumbers are tender; replenish the +stock in the pan if necessary. Remove them carefully to a hot dish. +Thicken the gravy in the pan with a little cornstarch, and pour it +around, not over them. This dish can be served as an entrée.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[219]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="LETTUCE_STEWED_219" id="LETTUCE_STEWED_219"></a>LETTUCE STEWED</h4> + +<p>Wash the lettuce carefully to remove the dust and any insects. Take off +the wilted leaves, and cut the root even with the head. Tie the top +together. Lay the heads side by side in a baking-pan; add enough stock +to cover the pan one and a half inches deep. Cover, and place in a +moderate oven to simmer for one half hour, or until the lettuce is soft; +renew the stock if necessary. Lift the lettuce out with a fork, putting +it under the middle; let it drain, and lay it double, as it will be over +the fork, in a row on a hot dish. Season the gravy in the pan <a name="corr18" id="corr18"></a>with +butter, salt, and pepper; thicken it with cornstarch, or with a beaten +egg, and serve it with the lettuce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ONIONS_219" id="ONIONS_219"></a>ONIONS</h4> + +<p>Put them in salted boiling water, and cook until tender; drain, and pour +over them a white sauce, or melted butter, pepper, and salt. If browned +onions are wanted for garnishing place them, after they are boiled +tender, in a pan; sprinkle with salt, pepper, and a little sugar; and +put them in a hot oven to brown.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STUFFED_SPANISH_ONIONS_219" id="STUFFED_SPANISH_ONIONS_219"></a>STUFFED SPANISH ONIONS</h4> + +<p>Peel the onions. Scoop out from the top a portion of the center. Parboil +them for five minutes, and turn them upside down to drain. Fill them +with a stuffing made of equal parts of minced chicken, or meat, and soft +bread-crumbs, chop fine the onion taken from the center, and add it to +the mixture. Season it with salt and pepper, and moisten it with melted +butter. Fill the onions heaping full, and sprinkle the tops with crumbs. +Place them in a pan with an inch of water; cover, and let cook in an +oven for an hour, or until tender, but not so long as to lose shape. +Take off the cover the last five minutes, so they will brown very +slightly.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[220]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CORN_ON_THE_EAR_220" id="CORN_ON_THE_EAR_220"></a>CORN ON THE EAR</h4> + +<p>Strip off the husk and silk. Put into boiling water; cover, and boil ten +to fifteen minutes. Do not salt the water, as it hardens the hull.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CORN_MOCK_OYSTERS_220" id="CORN_MOCK_OYSTERS_220"></a>CORN MOCK OYSTERS</h4> + +<p>Cut down through the center of the grains, each row of green corn on the +ear and with the back of a knife press out the pulp, leaving the hulls +on the ear. To a pint of the pulp add two beaten eggs, one teaspoonful +each of butter and salt, a dash of pepper, and enough flour to bind it. +Roll it into small cakes, and sauté them in butter; or it may be dropped +from a spoon into hot fat, making fritters. These may be made of canned +corn, in which case use a little milk and sugar.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CANNED_CORN_220" id="CANNED_CORN_220"></a>CANNED CORN</h4> + +<p>Turn it into a sieve, and let a little water run over it from the +faucet. Put it into a shallow baking dish; add to one canful of corn one +tablespoonful of butter, one half cupful of cream or milk, one half +teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of pepper. Place in the oven to brown +the top, and serve in the same dish.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SUCCOTASH_220" id="SUCCOTASH_220"></a>SUCCOTASH</h4> + +<p>Mix equal parts of corn, cut from the ear, and any kind of beans; boil +them separately; then stir them lightly together, and season with +butter, salt, and pepper and add a little cream if convenient.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ARTICHOKES_220" id="ARTICHOKES_220"></a>ARTICHOKES</h4> + +<p>Cut the stems off even with the leaves; remove the hardest bottom +leaves, and cut off the top ones straight across, leaving an opening. +Take out the inside, or choke. Wash well, and place upside down to +drain. Put them into boiling water for half an hour, or until the leaves +pull out easily; drain well, and serve on a napkin. They should be cut +with a sharp knife into<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[221]</a></span> halves or quarters, and served with white, +Béchamel, or Hollandaise sauce. The bottom and the base of the leaves +only are eatable.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ARTICHOKE_BOTTOMS_221" id="ARTICHOKE_BOTTOMS_221"></a>ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS</h4> + +<p>Remove all the leaves and choke. Trim the bottoms into good shape. Boil +them in salted water until tender. Serve with Béchamel or Hollandaise +sauce. Or cut the leaves close to the bottom, and divide it into +quarters. Cook, and serve the same way.</p> + +<p>Canned artichoke bottoms can be procured, which are very good.</p> + + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[222]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="Chapter_VII" id="Chapter_VII"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter VII</span><br /> +<br /> +FARINACEOUS FOODS USED AS VEGETABLES</h2> + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="RECEIPTS_FOR_MACARONI_222" id="RECEIPTS_FOR_MACARONI_222"></a>RECEIPTS FOR MACARONI AND CEREALS</h3> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TO_BOIL_RICE_222" id="TO_BOIL_RICE_222"></a>TO BOIL RICE</h4> + +<p>Wash the rice well, and drain it. It must be washed in several waters, +and until the floury coating, which is usually on rice, is all removed. +This flour makes it pasty, and holds the grains together. Have a large +saucepan of salted boiling water. Place it on the hottest part of the +range, so it will boil violently. Sprinkle in the rice slowly, so as not +to stop the boiling, and let it cook for fifteen to twenty minutes +uncovered. At the end of fifteen minutes take out a few grains. If they +are soft when pressed between the fingers, they are done. Then drain off +every drop of water; sprinkle with salt; cover the pot with a napkin, +using one thickness only—and set it on the side of the range to steam +and become perfectly dry. Or the rice may be turned into a colander to +drain, then placed in the open oven to dry. Use a large amount of water +in proportion to the rice. Have it violently agitated all the time to +keep the grains separated. Do not cook it too long, and do not stir or +touch it while cooking. The cloth will not prevent the moisture +escaping, and will help to keep it warm while it is drying. If these +simple rules are observed, each grain will be separate and dry. Do not +cover<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[223]</a></span> the dish in which it is served. Rice cooked in this way can be +served in the place of potatoes.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RICE_AND_TOMATO_223" id="RICE_AND_TOMATO_223"></a>RICE AND TOMATO</h4> + +<p>To a cupful of boiled rice add a half cupful of strained tomato sauce, +which has been well seasoned with butter, salt, pepper, and bay-leaf. +Toss them together, or mix lightly with a fork so as not to mash the +grains. Serve as a vegetable.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PARCHED_RICE_223" id="PARCHED_RICE_223"></a>PARCHED RICE</h4> + +<p>Boil rice as directed above, so each grain will be separate. Let it get +cold, then separate the grains lightly with a fork on a flat dish. Put +into a frying-pan just enough butter to cover the bottom of the pan; +when it is hot add a little of the rice at a time, and sauté it to a +delicate color. Shake the pan constantly to keep the grains separated. +Remove the rice as it is done, and spread on a paper to dry in an open +oven. The rice should not be greasy when served. This makes a good rice +dish to serve as a vegetable with broiled meats.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FARINA_BALLS_223" id="FARINA_BALLS_223"></a>FARINA BALLS</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>½ cupful of <a name="corr19" id="corr19"></a>farina.</li> + <li>2 cupfuls of <a name="corr20" id="corr20"></a>milk.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>Dash of cayenne.</li> + <li>5 drops of onion juice.</li> + <li>Yolk of 1 egg.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Cook the milk and farina in a double boiler for twenty to thirty +minutes. Wet the farina with a little cold milk before stirring it into +the boiling milk, so it will be smooth; add the salt, and cook to +stiffness, or until the milk has evaporated, then add the cayenne, onion +juice, and beaten yolk of egg. Stir well to mix, and to cook the egg; +pour it onto a dish. When cold roll it into balls one inch in diameter; +roll the balls in crumbs, then in egg (the white and yolk with one +tablespoonful of water, beaten only enough to break), and again in white +crumbs. Fry them in hot fat for one minute, or to a light amber color. +Be sure the balls are completely coated<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[224]</a></span> with egg and crumbs, or they +will break in frying. Any cold cereals can be used in this way. They +make a very pretty dish. Serve on a napkin, or to garnish a meat dish.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 421px;"> +<a name="illus-224-f-2" id="illus-224-f-2" href="images/illus-224-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-224-f-2.jpg" width="421" height="199" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">FARINA BALLS. (SEE PAGE <a href="#FARINA_BALLS_223">223</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRIED_HOMINY_224" id="FRIED_HOMINY_224"></a>FRIED HOMINY</h4> + +<p>Cut cold boiled hominy into slices one half inch thick, then into pieces +of uniform size. Roll in flour, and sauté on both sides, or dip them in +egg and crumbs, and fry in hot fat.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRIED_CORN_MUSH_224" id="FRIED_CORN_MUSH_224"></a>FRIED CORN MUSH</h4> + +<p>Pour well-boiled cornmeal mush (page <a href="#CORNMEAL_MUSH_228">228</a>) into a bread-tin or dish with +straight sides, so it will cut in even slices. Make the mush the day +before it is to be used, so it will have time to harden. Cut it in +pieces one half inch thick, and into any shape desired, but have the +pieces uniform. Roll each one in egg and flour, and fry in hot fat; or +they may be rolled in milk, then in flour, and sautéd in butter. They +should have a crust on both sides. It is good served as a vegetable with +game, or as a breakfast dish with or without syrup.</p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="MACARONI_224" id="MACARONI_224"></a>MACARONI</h3> + + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>General directions.</b></span> <span class="smcap">The</span> best macaroni is smooth, has a fine, close grain and clear +yellow color. It is made of flour and water only, and when +cooked needs the seasoning of a good sauce. It is generally +mixed with cheese, but tomato, cream, or Béchamel sauces make +at good combination. When macaroni is to be boiled in long +pieces to be used for timbales, hold the pieces in a bunch, +and lower them gradually into hot water. They will quickly +soften, and can be turned into a circle in the saucepan. They +must be removed when tender, and not cooked until they lose +form. When done drain off the hot water, and pour on cold +water for a few minutes; then lay them straight on a cloth. +</p></div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[225]</a></span></p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="SPAGHETTI_225" id="SPAGHETTI_225"></a>SPAGHETTI</h4> + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>How to serve.</b></span> Spaghetti is a small and more delicate form of macaroni. It +is boiled until tender in salted water and is combined with +cheese and with sauces the same as macaroni, and is usually +left long. It makes a good garnish.</p></div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BAKED_MACARONI_WITH_CHEESE_225" id="BAKED_MACARONI_WITH_CHEESE_225"></a>BAKED MACARONI, WITH CHEESE</h4> + +<p>Take as much macaroni as will half fill the dish in which it is to be +served. Break it into pieces two and a half to three inches long. Put it +into salted boiling water, and boil twelve to fifteen minutes, or until +the macaroni is perfectly soft. Shake the saucepan frequently to prevent +the macaroni from adhering to the bottom. Turn it into a colander to +drain; then put it into a pudding-dish with butter, salt, and grated +cheese. If much cheese is liked, it may be put into the dish in two +layers, alternating the seasoning with the macaroni. Cover it with milk, +and bake until the milk is absorbed and the top browned. A tablespoonful +or more of melted butter should be used to a half pound of macaroni. The +macaroni called “Mezzani,” which is a name designating size, not +quality, is the preferable kind for macaroni dishes made with cheese.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MACARONI_AU_GRATIN_225" id="MACARONI_AU_GRATIN_225"></a>MACARONI AU GRATIN</h4> + +<p>Boil the macaroni as directed above. Drain it in a colander; then return +it to the saucepan with butter and grated cheese. Toss over the fire +until the butter is absorbed and the cheese melted. Serve at once before +the cheese has time to harden.</p> + +<p>A mixture of Parmesan and of Swiss cheese is often liked; the former +strings when melted; the latter becomes liquid.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MACARONI_WITH_TOMATO_225" id="MACARONI_WITH_TOMATO_225"></a>MACARONI WITH TOMATO OR OTHER SAUCES</h4> + +<p>Boil the macaroni as directed above; drain it in a colander; then return +it to the saucepan, and mix it with tomato sauce, with cream sauce, or +with Béchamel sauce; toss until they are well mixed; serve in a +vegetable dish or as a garnish.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[226]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MACARONI_WITH_MINCED_MEAT_226" id="MACARONI_WITH_MINCED_MEAT_226"></a>MACARONI WITH MINCED MEAT</h4> + +<p>Mix boiled macaroni with minced chicken or any meat, and moisten with +white or brown sauce. The meat should be minced very fine. This makes a +good luncheon dish.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RECEIPT_FOR_MACARONI_226" id="RECEIPT_FOR_MACARONI_226"></a>RECEIPT FOR MACARONI</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(FROM MRS. MASPERO.)</p> + +<p>Put the macaroni into salted boiling water, and cook it twelve to +fifteen minutes, or until it is tender. Do not let the water boil +violently, as this breaks the macaroni. When it is cooked, drain off all +the water, and cover the hot macaroni with grated cheese (Parmesan and +Gruyère mixed). With two forks mix lightly the cheese with the macaroni. +Turn it into the hot serving-dish, and pour over it the sauce given +below. Serve at once.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SAUCE_FOR_MACARONI_226" id="SAUCE_FOR_MACARONI_226"></a>SAUCE FOR MACARONI, FOR RISSOTTO, AND FOR POLENTA</h4> + +<p>Put into a saucepan one and a half <a name="corr21" id="corr21"></a>tablespoonfuls of butter. Add a small +onion chopped fine and a half clove of garlic. Cook until all are +browned; then add three tablespoonfuls of water in which the macaroni +was boiled, and a teaspoonful of beef extract. Add, also, three or four +soaked mushrooms, and let it simmer for five minutes.</p> + +<p>This amount of sauce is enough for a pound of macaroni.</p> + +<p>The mushrooms given in this receipt are the dried cèpes, which can be +bought by the pound at Italian groceries. They are the best, after the +fresh mushrooms, to use for sauces. They should not be cooked longer +than five minutes to give their best flavor.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SAUCE_FOR_MACARONI_No_2_226" id="SAUCE_FOR_MACARONI_No_2_226"></a>SAUCE FOR MACARONI No. 2</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(MRS. MASPERO.)</p> + +<p>Make a sauce as directed for No. 1, using in place of the beef extract a +cupful of chopped round of beef, and a cupful of tomatoes.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[227]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SAUCE_FOR_MACARONI_No_3_227" id="SAUCE_FOR_MACARONI_No_3_227"></a>SAUCE FOR MACARONI No. 3</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(MRS. MASPERO.)</p> + +<p>When roasting an upper round of beef stick into it six cloves, a clove +of garlic, and a few lardoons of pork. Sprinkle it well with salt and +pepper. After the beef is roasted, turn the juice from the pan over the +macaroni and cheese.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="POLENTA_227" id="POLENTA_227"></a>POLENTA</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(MRS. MASPERO.)</p> + +<p>Make a cornmeal mush; boil it for a long time, until it is firm and +hard. Cut it in slices or leave it in one piece. Pour over it sauce No. +1 given above.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RISSOTTO_227" id="RISSOTTO_227"></a>RISSOTTO</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(MRS. MASPERO.)</p> + +<p>Boil rice until tender, but not soft. The Italian rice must be used, as +it does not get soft like the Carolina rice; when the rice is done, +drain off the water and steam it dry; then add, while the rice is still +on the fire, some mixed grated Parmesan and Swiss cheese. Turn them +together lightly until the cheese has softened, then put it into the hot +serving-dish, and cover with sauce No. 1 given above.</p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="CEREALS_227" id="CEREALS_227"></a>CEREALS</h3> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="OATMEAL_PORRIDGE_227" id="OATMEAL_PORRIDGE_227"></a>OATMEAL PORRIDGE</h4> + +<div class="explanations"><p><span class="smcap">Oatmeal</span> is ground in different grades of coarseness, and some +brands are partly cooked before they are put up for sale; +therefore the time for cooking varies, and it is better to +observe the directions given on the packages. Oatmeal requires +to be cooked until very soft, but should not be mushy. The +ordinary rule is to put a cupful of meal into a quart of +salted boiling water (a teaspoonful of salt), and let it cook<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[228]</a></span> +in double boiler the required time. It is well to keep the pan +covered until the oatmeal is cooked, then remove the cover and +let the moisture evaporate until the oatmeal is of the right +consistency. It should be moist enough to drop but not run +from the spoon. It should be lightly stirred occasionally to +prevent its sticking to the pan, but carefully so as not to +break the grains.</p> + +<p>If carefully cooked, the sides of the pan will not be +covered with burned oatmeal, and so wasted.</p> + +<p>Oatmeal is very good cold, and in summer is better served in +that way. It can be turned into fancy molds or into small cups +to cool, and will then hold the form and make an ornamental +dish. +</p></div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CRACKED_WHEAT_228" id="CRACKED_WHEAT_228"></a>CRACKED WHEAT</h4> + +<p>Add to three cupfuls of water a half teaspoonful of salt; when it boils +add a half cupful of cracked wheat, and let it cook uncovered until the +water is nearly evaporated; then add three cupfuls of hot milk; cover +and cook until the wheat is soft; then uncover and cook to the right +consistency. It should be quite moist. Stir it carefully from time to +time while it is cooking, but with care not to break the grains.</p> + +<p>Turn into molds to harden, and serve cold with sugar and milk.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CORNMEAL_MUSH_228" id="CORNMEAL_MUSH_228"></a>CORNMEAL MUSH</h4> + +<p>Sprinkle with the hand a pint of cornmeal into rapidly boiling salted +water, stirring all the time. Cook for half an hour; or mix the cornmeal +with a pint of milk and teaspoonful of salt and turn it slowly into a +quart of boiling water; cook for half an hour, stirring constantly. This +may be eaten cold or hot, with milk, with butter and sugar, or with +syrup. When cold it can be cut into slices and browned on both sides in +a sauté-pan, and used as a vegetable dish, or as a breakfast dish, and +may be eaten with syrup.</p> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[229]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="Chapter_VIII" id="Chapter_VIII"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter VIII</span><br /> +<br /> +A GROUP OF RECEIPTS FROM A NEW ENGLAND KITCHEN</h2> + +<p class="subtitle">(SUPPLIED BY SUSAN COOLIDGE)</p> + + +<div class="explanations"><p><span class="smcap">Many</span> of the receipts in this little “group” have never +before appeared in print. They are copies from old +grandmother and great-grandmother receipt-books, tested by +generations of use, and become, at this time, traditional in +the families to which they belong. They are now given to the +public as examples of the simple but dainty cooking of a +by-gone day, which, while differing in many points from the +methods of our own time, in its way is no less delicious.</p></div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SPLIT_PEA_SOUP_229" id="SPLIT_PEA_SOUP_229"></a>SPLIT PEA SOUP</h4> + +<p>Soak one quart of split peas in lukewarm water for three hours. Pour off +the water and boil the peas in three and a half quarts of salted water +till they are thoroughly soft. Rub through a colander, and throw away +whatever does not pass through. This will keep several days.</p> + +<p>Take out the quantity needed for dinner (allowing a generous quart to +three persons); boil in it a small piece of pork, onion, and a little +white pepper and salt; strain and serve very hot, with small cubes of +fried bread dropped into the tureen.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BLACK_BEAN_SOUP_229" id="BLACK_BEAN_SOUP_229"></a>BLACK BEAN SOUP</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 quart of black beans.</li> + <li>4 quarts of water.</li> + <li>The bone of a boiled ham.</li> + <li>6 cloves.</li> + <li>4 peppercorns.</li> +</ul> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[230]</a></span>Boil on the back of the range for twelve hours; rub through a colander +and set away to cool.</p> + +<p>This should make soup for two dinners for a family of six. When served, +add a glass of wine to each tureenful, two or three slices of lemon, and +cubes of bread fried in butter.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CLAM_SOUP_230" id="CLAM_SOUP_230"></a>CLAM SOUP</h4> + +<p>Boil a quart of clams in their own liquor till they are tender; then +chop them fine and return to the broth.</p> + +<p>Stir together until smooth two tablespoonfuls of butter and one and a +half of flour, and with them thicken the soup. Add very carefully a pint +of milk, stirring to avoid curdling, and add two tablespoonfuls of +butter, with pepper and salt, after taking the mixture from the fire.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CLAM_CHOWDER_230" id="CLAM_CHOWDER_230"></a>CLAM CHOWDER</h4> + +<p>Cut one half pound of salt pork into slices, and fry them brown; chop +two small onions, and cook them with the pork. Stew separately a quart +of tomatoes, canned or fresh, and a quart of sliced potatoes. When all +are done, put them together with one quart of clams and their juice. Add +three pints of water, salt, pepper, a little thyme, a very little flour +for thickening, and a handful of small whole crackers. Stew all together +for half an hour, and serve very hot.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FISH_CHOWDER_230" id="FISH_CHOWDER_230"></a>FISH CHOWDER</h4> + +<p>Three pounds of fresh codfish well boiled and the bones carefully +removed. Two onions chopped fine and fried with half a pound of salt +pork, cut into small dice. Six potatoes cut small, a pint of water, a +little salt and white pepper. Stew for twenty minutes, thicken slightly +with a little flour; add a pint and a half of milk, and let all boil up +once, stirring thoroughly. Put a handful of oyster crackers into a hot +tureen, and pour the mixture over them.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[231]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BROWNED_OYSTERS_231" id="BROWNED_OYSTERS_231"></a>BROWNED OYSTERS</h4> + +<p>Take thirty large oysters (about three pints); wash them in their own +liquor. Add to one pint of milk three tablespoonfuls of the oyster +liquor, well strained, a very little mace, and a bit of butter about the +size of an English walnut, and make the mixture scalding hot. Rub two +tablespoonfuls of flour perfectly smooth with a little of the milk; pour +in and stir until the whole is thick. Then drop in the oysters; cook +five minutes or so, till they are well plumped out, and add a little +salt, white pepper, and a tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce. Serve +on a platter on slices of buttered toast.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FISH_AND_OYSTERS_231" id="FISH_AND_OYSTERS_231"></a>FISH AND OYSTERS</h4> + +<p>Make a pint or more of white sauce, with flour, butter, and hot milk, +carefully stirred till smooth and thick. Pick to fine bits two quarts of +cold boiled codfish, and add one pint of oysters chopped fine. Fill a +well-buttered pudding-dish with alternate layers of the fish and oysters +and white sauce, sprinkling a little salt over the layers of cod. Cover +the top of the dish with fine bread-crumbs and small bits of butter; +baste with a little cold water, and bake till the top is browned.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SCALLOPED_OYSTERS_231" id="SCALLOPED_OYSTERS_231"></a>SCALLOPED OYSTERS</h4> + +<p>Three pints of oysters; a quart of sifted bread-crumbs. Place a layer of +crumbs in the bottom of a rather deep baking-dish, then a layer of +oysters, and sprinkle with salt and white pepper. Repeat the process +till the dish is filled. Cover the top with crumbs and a layer of soft +bread broken into bits and placed round the edge of a circle of small +oyster crackers. Wet the whole with half a pint of soup stock and a +quarter of a cup of oyster liquor. Cover the top generously with butter +cut into fine bits. Pour over the whole a glass of sherry, and bake an +hour.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[232]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PICKLED_OYSTERS_232" id="PICKLED_OYSTERS_232"></a>PICKLED OYSTERS</h4> + +<p>Scald the oysters in their own liquor, with a little water added, till +they are plump. Skim them out, and drop into a bowl of cold water; rinse +well and put them in glass jars.</p> + +<p>Scald an equal quantity of the liquor and vinegar with whole peppers, +mace, and salt, and when perfectly cold fill the jars up with it. These +will keep two or three weeks.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRICASSEED_OYSTERS_232" id="FRICASSEED_OYSTERS_232"></a>FRICASSEED OYSTERS</h4> + +<p>Drain a quart of large oysters from their liquor, and place them in a +covered saucepan with a quarter of a pound of good butter. Set them on +the back of the range, and let them simmer gently till the oysters are +well plumped out.</p> + +<p>Put the oyster liquor in another saucepan with three tablespoonfuls of +powdered cracker, and a little pepper. When the oysters are done, remove +them from the butter with a fork, and place them on toasted crackers on +a hot platter. Add the butter in which they have been cooked to the +oyster broth. Let it boil up once. Stir in half a pint of cream, and +pour over the oysters.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STEWED_LOBSTER_232" id="STEWED_LOBSTER_232"></a>STEWED LOBSTER</h4> + +<p>Cut a boiled lobster weighing four pounds into small pieces. Thicken a +half pint of milk with a teaspoonful of flour and a tablespoonful of +butter; add a teaspoonful of dry mustard, and a little salt and pepper. +Stew the lobster in this till it is quite tender, and lastly add a +tablespoonful of vinegar.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FISH_BALLS_232" id="FISH_BALLS_232"></a>FISH BALLS</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">MAINE</p> + +<p>Soak over night three quarters of a pound of boneless codfish.</p> + +<p>In the morning shred the fish (uncooked) very carefully with a silver +fork till it is fine. Add to it a dozen potatoes of medium size, freshly +boiled, mashed, and rubbed through a sieve, two beaten eggs, a +tablespoonful of butter, a little hot milk or cream, and a sprinkling of +white pepper.</p> + +<p>Mold into round balls, and drop into very hot fat.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[233]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CODFISH_AND_CREAM_233" id="CODFISH_AND_CREAM_233"></a>CODFISH AND CREAM</h4> + +<p>Shred two thirds of a bowlful of salt codfish, wash it several times +with fresh water, drain off the water, and put it into a saucepan with a +pint of sweet cream and half a pint of sweet milk. Let it come nearly, +but not quite, to the boiling point. Beat together one egg, a +tablespoonful of flour, and two tablespoonfuls of sweet milk; add it to +the fish, and stir continually until it is done. Put the mixture in a +hot dish, and add a large spoonful of butter, stirring it thoroughly.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="OYSTERS_ON_A_CHAFING-DISH_233" id="OYSTERS_ON_A_CHAFING-DISH_233"></a>OYSTERS ON A CHAFING-DISH</h4> + +<p>Put into the chafing-dish four or five tablespoonfuls of the oyster +liquor; add salt, white pepper, and a tablespoonful of butter, and stir +till it is scalding hot. Drop the oysters in, a dozen at a time, and +cook till they are plump and tender; then skim out and place on slices +of hot buttered toast; add more oysters as required.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PILAU_233" id="PILAU_233"></a>PILAU</h4> + +<p>One half pint of rice; one pint of stock; one half can of tomato. Soak +the rice in cold water for an hour. Pour off the water, and put the +rice, with the stock and one quarter of a white onion, in a double +boiler. Stew till the rice absorbs the stock.</p> + +<p>Stew the tomato thoroughly, and season with butter, salt, and pepper. +Mix it with the rice.</p> + +<p>Sauté in butter to a light color jointed chicken, slightly parboiled, or +slices of cold cooked chicken or turkey. Make a hole in the rice and +tomato, put in the chicken and an ounce of butter, and stew all together +for twenty minutes. Serve on a platter in a smooth mound, the red rice +surrounding the fowl.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SPICED_SHAD_233" id="SPICED_SHAD_233"></a>SPICED SHAD</h4> + +<p>Scale the fish, cut off the heads and tails, and divide them into four +pieces.</p> + +<p>Chop four or five small onions, and sprinkle a layer on the bottom of a +stone jar; on this place a layer of fish, packing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[234]</a></span> closely. Spice with +black and cayenne pepper, cloves, allspice, whole peppers, and a little +more onion. Then add another layer of fish, and so on till the jar is +full. Arrange the roe on top, spice highly, and fill the jar with the +strongest vinegar procurable. Place thick folds of paper on the jar +under the cover, and bake for twelve hours. The vinegar will dissolve +the bones, and the fish can be sliced for a tea-table relish.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PORK_AND_BEANS_234" id="PORK_AND_BEANS_234"></a>PORK AND BEANS</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">NEW HAMPSHIRE</p> + +<p>Soak a pint of small white beans over night.</p> + +<p>In the morning pour off the water, pour on a pint of cold water, and set +at the back of the range to simmer slowly for three quarters of an hour.</p> + +<p>Place the beans in a bean-pot with half a pound of scored salt pork in +the middle, half a teaspoonful of dry mustard, salt, white pepper, and a +half pint of white sugar. Add water from time to time, as it grows dry, +and bake twelve hours.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 416px;"> +<a name="illus-224-f-1" id="illus-224-f-1" href="images/illus-224-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-224-f-1.jpg" width="416" height="198" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">BEAN POT.</span> +</div> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RECHAUFFE_OF_COLD_MUTTON_234" id="RECHAUFFE_OF_COLD_MUTTON_234"></a>A RÉCHAUFFÉ OF COLD MUTTON</h4> + +<p>Have the mutton cut very neatly and carefully into slices.</p> + +<p>Add to a half pint of gravy or stock a little white pepper, a quarter of +a teaspoonful of dry mustard, a quarter of a teaspoonful of curry +powder, and three large tablespoonfuls of currant jelly. When this is +scalding hot, add a glass of sherry. Have ready a hot platter with +slices of toast. Put the sliced mutton into the sauce long enough to +heat through, but not to cook for a moment. Take the slices out with a +fork, and place them on the toast; last of all pour the boiling gravy +over all, and serve instantly. This preparation will be found +delicious—it robs the second-day-of-the-mutton of its terrors.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CORNED_BEEF_234" id="CORNED_BEEF_234"></a>CORNED BEEF</h4> + +<p>If a round of corned beef is to be eaten cold, as is often the case, it +should be carefully and slowly boiled, and left in the pot till the next +day. The soaking in the water in which it has<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[235]</a></span> been boiled has the +effect of making the beef delightfully delicate and tender, and a little +less salt in its flavor. No one who has tried this method will be +content with any other.</p> + +<p>If the beef is to be served hot, what is left can be reheated, and left +to cool for the next day’s use in the liquor.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BEEFSTEAK_PIE_235" id="BEEFSTEAK_PIE_235"></a>A BEEFSTEAK PIE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">CONNECTICUT</p> + +<p>Three pounds of lean rump steak cut thick. Cut it into strips three +inches long, and an inch wide. Put it to stew in enough boiling water to +not quite cover the meat, and simmer very slowly for half an hour. Add a +tablespoonful of parsley chopped fine, a large teaspoonful of sweet +thyme, half a teaspoonful of white pepper, and a quarter of a pint of +sliced onions. Stew together till the meat is perfectly tender. Rub +smooth a tablespoonful of corn starch, and stir it with the gravy until +it becomes of the consistency of cream; add a little salt and a +tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce. Place the meat in a deep +pudding-dish with alternate layers of cold ham sliced thin and sliced +hard-boiled eggs—seven or eight eggs will be required. Add a little +grated nutmeg; cover with paste, and bake half an hour.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="EASY_CHICKEN_SALAD_235" id="EASY_CHICKEN_SALAD_235"></a>EASY CHICKEN SALAD</h4> + +<p>Take a two-pound can of Richardson & Robbins’s compressed chicken; +remove the skin, and cut the chicken into small dice.</p> + +<p>Add twice as much celery cut into small pieces, salt to taste, and +marinate the whole with a mixture of three tablespoonfuls of vinegar to +nine of oil. Have it very cold, and just before serving pour over it a +Mayonnaise made by the following receipt. This quantity is enough for +twenty-five persons.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CREAM_DRESSING_235" id="CREAM_DRESSING_235"></a>CREAM DRESSING</h4> + +<p>Rub together in a china bowl a large tablespoonful of butter, four +tablespoonfuls of vinegar, a half teaspoonful of salt, and a half +teaspoonful of dry mustard.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[236]</a></span>Place the bowl in a saucepan full of boiling water over a spirit lamp, +or on the range. Stir the mixture carefully till very hot, to prevent +the butter from oiling. When hot add two well-beaten eggs; stir till +thick, then pour in a half pint of cream, stir, remove from the fire, +and allow it to get perfectly cold.</p> + +<p>Cold sweet-breads are excellent served with this cream Mayonnaise.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MACARONI_A_LALBI_236" id="MACARONI_A_LALBI_236"></a>MACARONI À L’ALBI</h4> + +<p>Break a dozen stems of large macaroni into pieces four inches long, and +stew carefully, till tender, in consommé or white soup stock.</p> + +<p>Place in a dish layers of the macaroni sprinkled with salt, pepper, and +of Gruyère cheese grated fine. Cover the top with a thick layer of +grated cheese, on that a layer of fine bread-crumbs, and on that bits of +butter cut fine. Bake just long enough to brown the top thoroughly.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CORN_PUDDING_236" id="CORN_PUDDING_236"></a>CORN PUDDING</h4> + +<p>Scrape with a knife two dozen ears of green corn, cutting each row +through the middle. Add one pint of milk, half a pound of butter, three +eggs, the whites and yolks beaten separately, a little salt, and white +pepper. Stir the yolks into the milk and corn, pour into a baking-dish, +stir in the whites, and bake an hour and a half.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="THIN_INDIAN_BREAD_236" id="THIN_INDIAN_BREAD_236"></a>THIN INDIAN BREAD</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">VERMONT</p> + +<p>Mix together two cupfuls of meal, a tablespoonful of lard, and a +teaspoonful of salt; scald with boiling water. Thin it with a large +cupful of cold milk and two well-beaten eggs. Spread thin on a large +buttered pan, and bake till brown in an oven only moderately hot.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[237]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="GRAHAM_GEMS_237" id="GRAHAM_GEMS_237"></a>GRAHAM GEMS</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>One pint of milk.</li> + <li>One pint of graham flour.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Place on top of the range a frame of “iron-clad” gem-pans to get very +hot. Stir the milk and meal together lightly, not trying to make the +batter very smooth. Drop a bit of butter into each hot pan, and while it +sizzles pour in the batter, and instantly set in the oven; bake twenty +minutes. The heat raises the batter to lightness, and the butter gives a +savory crust to the little cakes.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COLONIAL_HOE-CAKES_237" id="COLONIAL_HOE-CAKES_237"></a>COLONIAL HOE-CAKES</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">CONNECTICUT</p> + +<p>Stir Indian meal and water together into a thickish paste. Spread +thickly on a new wooden spade, or on the top of a new barrel, and set on +end before an open fire to slowly toast, turning the cake when the outer +side is brown. No preparation of Indian meal has quite the flavor of +this.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RHODE_ISLAND_JOHNNY-CAKE_237" id="RHODE_ISLAND_JOHNNY-CAKE_237"></a>RHODE ISLAND JOHNNY-CAKE</h4> + +<p>For this, Rhode Island meal, ground between stones, is required. Take +one pint of meal and one teaspoonful of salt, and scald thoroughly with +boiling water till it is a stiff, smooth batter. Thin with cold milk +till about the consistency of sponge-cake batter, and drop in +tablespoonfuls on a hot buttered griddle. When the under side is brown, +turn the cakes and brown the other side. Eat with butter.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BOSTON_BROWN_BREAD_237" id="BOSTON_BROWN_BREAD_237"></a>BOSTON BROWN BREAD</h4> + +<p>One pint of yellow cornmeal, scalded with a small quantity of boiling +water, just enough to wet it thoroughly. Let it stand ten minutes. Then +add enough cold water to make a soft batter. Add one quarter pint of +brewer’s yeast, one quarter pint of molasses, one pint of rye meal, one +half teaspoonful of salt, and one saltspoonful of soda. Beat it well +together, and set it to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[238]</a></span> rise over night. When light, stir it +thoroughly, put it into a buttered tin, sprinkle a little flour over the +top, and set it to rise again. Bake about two hours. It is excellent cut +into slices and toasted.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="DABS_238" id="DABS_238"></a>DABS</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">CONNECTICUT</p> + +<p>A pint of cornmeal, thoroughly scalded with hot water. Rub into it a +dessertspoonful of butter, two eggs beaten very light, a wineglassful of +cream or milk, and a little salt. Butter a tin pan, and drop the mixture +from a spoon upon it. Bake in a moderate oven.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CREAM_OATMEAL_238" id="CREAM_OATMEAL_238"></a>CREAM OATMEAL</h4> + +<p>Boil oatmeal for an hour as for breakfast use. Rub it through a fine +sieve, add a little milk, and cook it very slowly in a double boiler for +half an hour longer. When perfectly smooth, add a little salt and cream.</p> + +<p>This is the most delicate preparation of oatmeal that an invalid can +take.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ZEPHYRS_238" id="ZEPHYRS_238"></a>ZEPHYRS</h4> + +<p>Prepare a thin mush of Indian meal, water, and salt, and boil till +smooth. Drop this batter into iron-clad pans, made very hot and +buttered, and bake till brown.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SQUASH_PIES_238" id="SQUASH_PIES_238"></a>SQUASH PIES</h4> + +<p>Pare and cut into pieces a Hubbard squash, and steam it till, thoroughly +soft; then rub it through a coarse sieve.</p> + +<p>To a quart of the squash, which should be as thick and dry as chestnuts +when prepared for stuffing, add three quarters of a pint, heaping full, +of granulated sugar, the peel and juice of a large lemon, half a nutmeg +grated, a tablespoonful of powdered ginger, about as much powdered +cinnamon, a small teaspoonful of salt, six drops of rose-water, half a +pint of cream, and four beaten eggs. Stir thoroughly, and add about +three pints of scalded milk. The mixture should be tasted, and a little +more sugar, or lemon, or spice added if required.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[239]</a></span>Line a deep tin pie-dish with paste, lay a narrow strip around the edge, +and fill the dish with the mixture. Bake till the filling is set. This +quantity will make four pies.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PUMPKIN_PIES_239" id="PUMPKIN_PIES_239"></a>PUMPKIN PIES (About Four Pounds)</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">MASSACHUSETTS</p> + +<p>Pare a small pumpkin, about four pounds, and take out the seeds. Steam +till soft, and strain through a colander.</p> + +<p>Beat in three eggs, three tablespoonfuls of molasses, two tablespoonfuls +of ground cinnamon, one of ginger, two teaspoonfuls of salt, and two +quarts of hot milk. If more sweetening is needed add a little sugar. +Bake with an under crust only. This receipt will make five pies.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="EASY_PIE-CRUST_239" id="EASY_PIE-CRUST_239"></a>EASY PIE-CRUST</h4> + +<p>Three quarters of a pint of lard, three quarters of a pint of butter, +three quarters of a pint of iced water with a teaspoonful of salt +dissolved in it, a pint and a half of flour sifted twice through a fine +sieve.</p> + +<p>Put the lard and flour into a bowl (leaving out a little flour for +rolling), and very lightly rub them together with the tips of your +fingers. Pour in the salted water, and stir with a knife till the flour +and lard are well mixed. Pour out onto the paste-board (over which a +very little flour should be sifted), and beat the mixture with a rolling +pin, doubling and folding, and putting the dry particles in the middle, +till the whole becomes a smooth, firm paste.</p> + +<p>Roll this into a narrow oblong, as far as possible rolling from you. +Divide the butter, which should be very cold and hard, into three parts, +and put one third on the paste with a knife, cutting it into little +bits. Fold the sheet of paste over into a roll, and again roll out into +an oblong. Add the second third of butter in the same way. Roll once +more, put on the last third of butter, again fold into a roll, and cut +the paste in two, putting one half on top of the other half.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[240]</a></span>Cut portions off from the end of the double roll, and with them line the +pie dishes, rolling them very thin. This quantity of paste will make +four or five pies. Care should be taken not to increase the quantity of +flour. The pie-crust will be found tender and delicate, though not so +elegant as puff-paste; and to make it ready for use in the pie-dishes +should not take more than a quarter of an hour.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BOILED_INDIAN_PUDDING_240" id="BOILED_INDIAN_PUDDING_240"></a>A BOILED INDIAN PUDDING</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">CONNECTICUT</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>One quart of milk.</li> + <li>One pint of meal.</li> + <li>Five tablespoonfuls of West India molasses.</li> + <li>Two tablespoonfuls of suet chopped fine.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Scald the milk, and pour it over the meal; add the other ingredients. +Put the pudding into a mold or bag, and boil four hours.</p> + +<p>Hot maple molasses and butter are eaten with this pudding.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BAKED_INDIAN_PUDDING_240" id="BAKED_INDIAN_PUDDING_240"></a>A BAKED INDIAN PUDDING</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>Three and a half quarts of sweet milk.</li> + <li>Three heaping tablespoonfuls of cornmeal.</li> + <li>One half pint of molasses.</li> + <li>One teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>Ginger to taste.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Boil one quart of the milk; add to it molasses, butter, salt, and spice, +and lastly the meal stirred smooth with a little cold milk; scald the +whole together, and turn into a well-buttered baking-dish. When it +begins to crust over, stir it all up from the bottom, and add a pint of +cold milk. Repeat the process every half hour, or oftener if the pudding +browns too fast, till the five pints are used; then let it bake till +done—six hours in all. Serve hot with a sauce of grated or granulated +maple sugar stirred into rich cream, and kept very cold till needed.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[241]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ORANGE_INDIAN_PUDDING_241" id="ORANGE_INDIAN_PUDDING_241"></a>ORANGE INDIAN PUDDING</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">CONNECTICUT</p> + +<p>Put four heaping tablespoonfuls of Indian meal in a bowl, and mix in +half a pint of molasses and a teaspoonful of salt. Boil three pints of +milk; pour it scalding hot on the meal, stirring carefully till +perfectly smooth and free from lumps. Butter a deep pudding-dish; cover +the bottom thickly with fragments of dried orange-peel; pour in the +mixture, and, last of all, pour gently over the top a tumblerful of cold +milk. Bake four hours and a half in a hot oven. Eat with thick cream.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BLUEBERRY_PUDDING_241" id="BLUEBERRY_PUDDING_241"></a>BLUEBERRY PUDDING</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">RHODE ISLAND</p> + +<p>Line a deep pudding-dish with slices of buttered bread. Fill this with +alternate layers of whortleberries or blueberries, and granulated sugar. +Squeeze the juice of a lemon over the whole. Cover the top with slices +of bread buttered on both sides. Place a plate over the dish, and bake +for an hour and a half, setting the dish in a pan of hot water.</p> + +<p>Take the pudding from the oven, spread over the top a meringue of white +of egg beaten lightly with sugar in the proportion of a tablespoonful of +sugar to one egg, and return it to the oven just long enough to lightly +brown the meringue. The pudding should be eaten hot with hard wine +sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PEACH_PUDDING_241" id="PEACH_PUDDING_241"></a>A PEACH PUDDING</h4> + +<p>Line the bottom of a deep pudding-dish with thick slices of stale sponge +cake soaked in sherry. Fill the dish with fresh peaches, sliced, and +well sprinkled with sugar. Spread over the top a meringue similar to +that described for whortleberry pudding, and leave it in the oven just +long enough to brown.</p> + +<p>Set the dish on the ice, and serve very cold. It is eaten with cream.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHERRY_BREAD_241" id="CHERRY_BREAD_241"></a>CHERRY BREAD</h4> + +<p>Fill a deep pudding-dish with alternate layers of buttered bread and +sour cherries, stoned, and stewed with sugar.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[242]</a></span>Pack the dish in ice, and half freeze the mixture, which will become a +semi-jelly. It is eaten with thick cream.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="LEMON_RICE_PUDDING_242" id="LEMON_RICE_PUDDING_242"></a>LEMON RICE PUDDING</h4> + +<p>Boil a half pint of rice in a quart of milk till very soft. Add to it +while hot the yolks of three eggs, three large tablespoonfuls of sugar, +the grated rind of two lemons, and a little salt. If too thick, add a +little cold milk. It should be a little thicker than a boiled custard. +Turn it into a pudding-dish.</p> + +<p>Beat the whites of the eggs very stiff with eight tablespoonfuls of +sugar and the juice of the two lemons, and brown the top delicately in +the oven. Set on ice and eat very cold.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BERMUDA_PUDDING_242" id="BERMUDA_PUDDING_242"></a>BERMUDA PUDDING</h4> + +<p>Weigh two eggs, and allow the same weight in sugar and flour, and the +weight of one egg in butter. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add +the eggs beaten to a froth, and lastly the flour, in which half a +teaspoonful of Royal Baking Powder has been mixed. Stir till perfectly +smooth; then add a heaping tablespoonful of orange marmalade; pour into +a buttered mold; cover with buttered paper, and steam gently for an hour +and a half. Serve with wine sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RICE_AND_ORANGE-MARMALADE_PUDDING_242" id="RICE_AND_ORANGE-MARMALADE_PUDDING_242"></a>RICE AND ORANGE-MARMALADE PUDDING</h4> + +<p>Simmer a quarter of a pint of rice in a quart of milk till it is very +soft and thick. Add a teaspoonful of salt, four tablespoonfuls of sugar, +a little cream, and let all cool together a few minutes. Pour into a +pudding-dish and bake till set.</p> + +<p>Spread over the pudding a thick layer of orange marmalade, and over that +a meringue, and return to the oven till the top is lightly browned. +Serve it cold.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MOLASSES_PIE_242" id="MOLASSES_PIE_242"></a>MOLASSES PIE</h4> + +<p>This is a genuine New England dainty, dear to the hearts of children. +Mix half a pint of the best molasses with a table<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[243]</a></span>spoonful of flour, and +add the juice of a large lemon, and the rind and pulp chopped fine. Bake +with an under and an upper crust.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PRUNE_JELLY_243" id="PRUNE_JELLY_243"></a>PRUNE JELLY, WITH ALMONDS</h4> + +<p>One pound of prunes. One half box of Coxe’s gelatine. Soak the prunes +over night, and stew till tender in the water in which they have soaked. +Remove the stones, and sweeten to taste.</p> + +<p>Dissolve the gelatine in a little hot water, and add to the prunes while +hot. Lastly, add the juice of a lemon and two tablespoonfuls of blanched +almonds. Pour the jelly into molds and set it on the ice to harden. Eat +with cream.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CLARIFIED_APPLES_243" id="CLARIFIED_APPLES_243"></a>CLARIFIED APPLES</h4> + +<p>Melt two cupfuls of crushed sugar over the fire, adding a little water +to keep it from burning, and dropping in a few bits of lemon-peel.</p> + +<p>Pare eight large greening apples, and slice them very thin. Have a +saucepan full of boiling water ready, and into this put the apples and +let them cook till they are parboiled, but not soft enough to break. +Skim them out, and drop them into the boiling syrup, shaking them +continually over a slow fire till they are done. If properly prepared +the slices will be almost transparent.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="LEMON_ICE_243" id="LEMON_ICE_243"></a>LEMON ICE</h4> + +<p>One quart of milk. One tumblerful of sugar. Mix the two, and half freeze +in an ice cream freezer. Then add the juice and pulp of four large +lemons; stir thoroughly, and freeze firm. This is the simplest and +cheapest of frozen preparations, and for use in the country, where +materials are hard to come by, it is invaluable.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="APPLE_SAUCE_243" id="APPLE_SAUCE_243"></a>APPLE SAUCE</h4> + +<p>Pare, core, and quarter enough Baldwin or greening apples to fill a +small stoneware jar. Add three quarters of a pint of sugar and a quarter +of a pint of water; cover tightly. Set this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[244]</a></span> in the oven of the range as +soon as the last meal of the day—dinner or supper, as it may be—is +served, and let it remain till breakfast next morning. The long, slow +cooking gives the apples a deep red color and a flavor quite different +from other preparations.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STEWED_PEARS_244" id="STEWED_PEARS_244"></a>STEWED PEARS</h4> + +<p>Prick hard baking pears with a fork in half a dozen places, and with +them fill a small stoneware jar. Add half a pint of sugar, half a pint +of water, and a heaping teaspoonful of molasses. Cover tightly, and bake +all night as directed above.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CRANBERRY_JELLY_244" id="CRANBERRY_JELLY_244"></a>CRANBERRY JELLY</h4> + +<p>Stew four quarts of cranberries in a porcelain kettle with water enough +to float them, till they are thoroughly soft and broken. Rub them +through a coarse sieve. Allow to each pint of the marmalade-like mixture +resulting a pound of sugar. Put the fruit on the fire till it boils +hard. Stir in the sugar, and as soon as it jellies, which will be in a +few minutes, remove from the fire and pour into glasses. The advantage +of this preparation of cranberries is that it keeps perfectly for six +weeks or two months, losing nothing in quality or flavor during the +time.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="HARTFORD_ELECTION_CAKE_244" id="HARTFORD_ELECTION_CAKE_244"></a>HARTFORD ELECTION CAKE</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>4½ pounds of flour.</li> + <li>2½ pounds of sugar.</li> + <li>2¼ pounds of butter.</li> + <li>½ ounce of nutmeg.</li> + <li>½ pound of sliced citron.</li> + <li>½ ounce of mace.</li> + <li>A cupful of brandy and sherry mixed.</li> + <li>2 pounds of raisins.</li> + <li>4 eggs.</li> +</ul> + +<p>At noon, or early in the afternoon, begin making this cake. Cream the +butter and sugar, add a quart of lukewarm milk, half of the flour, and +either a half pint of brewer’s yeast or a cake and a half of compressed +yeast. Beat the mixture well, cover the pan with a thick towel, and set +it in a warm place to rise.</p> + +<p>At night, when it is very light, add the flour, spices, and eggs. Set +the pan in a moderately warm place for a second<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[245]</a></span> rising. Early next +morning add the fruit, the wine, the grated peel of a lemon, and half a +teaspoonful of extract of rose. Pour into pans lined with buttered +paper. Let them stand an hour or until light. This receipt makes seven +loaves, which require to bake from an hour to an hour and a half, +according to oven.</p> + +<p>A half teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a little warm water, and stirred +into the batter just before it is put into the pans, is an improvement.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="INSTANTANEOUS_FROSTING_245" id="INSTANTANEOUS_FROSTING_245"></a>INSTANTANEOUS FROSTING</h4> + +<p>To the white of an unbeaten egg add a cupful and a quarter of pulverized +sugar, and stir until smooth. Add three drops of rose-water, ten of +vanilla, and the juice of half a lemon. It will at once become very +white, and will harden in five or six minutes.</p> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[246]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="Chapter_IX" id="Chapter_IX"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter IX</span><br /> +<br /> +<span class="smcap">Part I</span></h2> + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="DISTINCTIVELY_SOUTHERN_DISHES_246" id="DISTINCTIVELY_SOUTHERN_DISHES_246"></a>DISTINCTIVELY SOUTHERN DISHES</h3> + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> dishes in which the South excel, and which may be called +distinctive to that section, are those made of cornmeal, of +gumbo or okra, and those seasoned with sassafras powder or +twigs. <span class="sidenote"><b>The Cornmeal.</b></span> The cornmeal used in the South is white and coarse-grained +(it is called there water-ground), and gives quite a different +result from that which is finer in grain and yellow in color, +which is usually sold at the North. <span class="sidenote"><b>The Hoe.</b></span> The hoe used for baking +corn-cakes is an article made for the purpose, and not the +garden implement usually associated with the name. +</p></div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PONE_246" id="PONE_246"></a>PONE</h4> + +<p>Sift a quart of white cornmeal, add a teaspoonful of salt; pour on +enough cold water to make a mixture which will squeeze easily through +the fingers. Work it to a soft dough. Mold it into oblong cakes an inch +thick at the ends, and a little thicker in the center. Slap them down on +the pan, and press them a little. These cakes, they say, must show the +marks of the fingers. The pan must be hot, and sprinkled with the bran +sifted from the meal. Bake in a hot oven for about twenty minutes.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="HOE-CAKE_No_1_246" id="HOE-CAKE_No_1_246"></a>HOE-CAKE No. 1</h4> + +<p>Make the same mixture as for pone. Spread it on the greased hoe, or a +griddle, making a round cake one quarter inch thick. Bake it on the top +of the range, turning and baking it brown on both sides.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[247]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="HOE-CAKE_No_2_247" id="HOE-CAKE_No_2_247"></a>HOE-CAKE No. 2</h4> + +<p>Use for these cakes, if possible, coarse water-ground white meal. Add to +a quart of meal a teaspoonful of salt; pour over it enough boiling water +to make it a soft dough; add also a little milk to make it brown better. +Let it stand an hour or longer, then work it together with the hand. +Form it into little cakes an inch thick, and bake on a greased griddle +till browned on both sides. Serve very hot. They are split and spread +with butter when eaten.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="KENTUCKY_CORN_DODGERS_247" id="KENTUCKY_CORN_DODGERS_247"></a>KENTUCKY CORN DODGERS</h4> + +<p>Mix a teaspoonful of salt with a cupful of white cornmeal. Scald it with +just enough boiling water to dampen it; then add enough cold milk to +enable you to mold it. Stir it well together, and form it into cakes +three quarters of an inch thick in the middle and oblong in shape. Use a +tablespoonful of dough for each cake. Bake them on a greased pan in a +hot oven for twenty-five minutes.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MARYLAND_BEATEN_BISCUIT_247" id="MARYLAND_BEATEN_BISCUIT_247"></a>MARYLAND BEATEN BISCUIT</h4> + +<p>Add a teaspoonful of salt and tablespoonful of butter to a quart of +flour. Rub them together, then add a cupful of milk, and, if necessary, +a little water, making a stiff dough. Place the dough on a firm table or +block, and beat it with a mallet or rolling-pin for fully half an hour, +or until it becomes brittle. Spread it half an inch thick; cut it into +small circles, and prick each one with a fork. Bake them in a hot oven +about twenty minutes.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SOFT_CORN-BREAD_247" id="SOFT_CORN-BREAD_247"></a>SOFT CORN-BREAD</h4> + +<p>Mix a tablespoonful of butter with two cupfuls of hot boiled hominy or +of rice; add two or three well-beaten eggs, and then add slowly two +cupfuls of milk, and lastly a cupful of white cornmeal and a dash of +salt. Turn the mixture, which should be of the consistency of pancake +batter, into a deep dish, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[248]</a></span> bake about an hour. Serve it with a spoon +from the same dish in which it is baked.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SOUTHERN_WAY_OF_COOKING_RICE_248" id="SOUTHERN_WAY_OF_COOKING_RICE_248"></a>SOUTHERN WAY OF COOKING RICE</h4> + +<p>Wash the rice thoroughly through several waters, using the hand. Put it +into a saucepan with a pint of water and a half teaspoonful of salt to +each cupful of rice. Let it boil covered until the water has boiled +away; then draw it to the side of the range, open the cover a little, +and let it steam until thoroughly dry. Do not touch the rice while it is +cooking. This receipt is furnished by a Southern negro cook.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="GUMBO_FILE_248" id="GUMBO_FILE_248"></a>GUMBO FILÉ</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(A NEW ORLEANS DISH)</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>50 oysters.</li> + <li>1 fowl cut into pieces.</li> + <li>½ pound of veal cut into pieces.</li> + <li>½ pound of ham cut into pieces.</li> + <li>3 tablespoonfuls of tomato.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of drippings.</li> + <li>2 onions.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>¼ teaspoonful of pepper.</li> + <li>¼ teaspoonful of powdered thyme.</li> + <li>¼ teaspoonful of marjoram.</li> + <li>Dash of cayenne.</li> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls of sassafras powder.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Wash well the outside of a fowl (see page <a href="#TO_CLEAN_AND_DRAW_POULTRY_180">180</a>), and cut it into pieces. +Cut the veal and the ham into small pieces, and dredge all of them well +with flour.</p> + +<p>Put the onions, sliced, into a pot or large saucepan with one +tablespoonful of fat or drippings, and fry until brown; then add the +pieces of chicken, veal, and ham. Turn them often, so all will brown +evenly; this will take about twenty minutes. When the meat is browned, +add two quarts of hot water; cover the pot, and let simmer for two +hours. After the first hour add the salt, pepper, thyme, marjoram, and +tomatoes. At the end of two hours, if the meat is tender, add the +oysters and the oyster juice, and let remain on the fire only long +enough to ruffle the gills of the oysters. Take from the fire, and add +two tablespoonfuls of sassafras powder, and stir until a little<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[249]</a></span> +thickened (do not add the sassafras until the pot is removed from the +fire).</p> + +<p>Serve in a meat-dish with a border of boiled rice. This is a dish much +used in the South. It may be served as a chowder, with the meat and +liquor together, or may be served separately, using the liquor as a +soup.</p> + +<p>Powdered sassafras leaves may be obtained at the grocer’s.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHICKEN_GUMBO_249" id="CHICKEN_GUMBO_249"></a>CHICKEN GUMBO</h4> + +<p>Cut a chicken into pieces; roll the pieces in flour; put them into a pot +with a few slices of salt pork and one sliced onion. Sauté them a light +brown; then add four quarts of hot water, and simmer it until the +chicken is nearly cooked; then add two slices of boiled ham, two quarts +of sliced okra, one half can of tomatoes, and one pod of red pepper. +Continue to cook until everything is tender. Season with salt and +pepper, and just before serving stir in one teaspoonful of sassafras +powder. If sassafras twigs can be had they are better than the powder, +and should be added with the vegetables.</p> + +<p>This is a favorite Southern dish. It resembles a chowder, and is so +hearty as to almost constitute a dinner in itself.</p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><span class="smcap">Part II</span><br /> + +<a name="VERY_INEXPENSIVE_DISHES_249" id="VERY_INEXPENSIVE_DISHES_249"></a>VERY INEXPENSIVE DISHES</h3> + + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Cost of living.</b></span> <span class="smcap">The</span> following receipts are furnished by a lady who for many +years solved the problem of providing nourishment for a +family of three persons upon a very small income. The +average expenditure each day for three meals did not exceed +twenty cents <i>per capita</i>, or four dollars and twenty cents +a week for the family; and great care was taken to secure +for this sum the greatest possible amount of nourishment. In +families where meat is not considered a daily necessity, +this price might be further reduced.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[250]</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Care required in cooking cheap cuts of meat.</b></span> It is, of course, very much easier to supply coarse qualities +of food for a low sum than refined and dainty dishes, but, +after all, it is more a matter of the care given to the +preparation than of the food itself which produces refined +results; for instance, beef, which is very nourishing, is +least suited to these requirements, because the less expensive +portions, which often contain the most nutriment, cannot be +served as daintily as either veal or mutton without a large +amount of care and trouble; this it is often difficult to give +personally, and almost impossible to secure in a low-priced +cook. Still, it is worth while for any housekeeper desirous of +obtaining the maximum nourishment at minimum cost, to try the +following receipts for using the most inexpensive portion of +beef that can be bought, <i>i. e.</i>, the shin, which costs about +eight cents a pound. +</p></div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TO_PREPARE_SHIN_OF_BEEF_250" id="TO_PREPARE_SHIN_OF_BEEF_250"></a>TO PREPARE SHIN OF BEEF</h4> + +<p>Take a slice about one inch thick, cut toward the smaller end of the +shin, so that the little round bone in the center is quite small. This +is fairly manageable, and can by careful cooking be rendered as tender +as a sirloin steak. Place the slice in a stewpan, cover it with water, +add salt, and set it upon the far end of the grate for three hours, +never allowing it to boil. If by that time it is fairly tender, cover it +with vegetables cut in very small dice—carrots, turnips, and one large +onion; advance the pot nearer to the fire, and let it simmer another +hour. Push aside the vegetables, take the meat out carefully, and lay it +on the dish; pile the vegetables upon its center, then carefully thicken +the liquor, and if necessary brown it with a drop or two of burnt sugar, +and pour this gravy over the beef.</p> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe"><a name="ANOTHER_WAY_250" id="ANOTHER_WAY_250"></a>ANOTHER WAY</h5> + +<p>Take about two and a half pounds of the thicker part of the shin, place +it in an iron pot with two tablespoonfuls of drippings. Turn it as it +browns. When brown enough put it in a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[251]</a></span> stew-pan; add enough water to +cover it, a large onion stuck full of cloves, and half a carrot cut into +slices. Let it simmer four hours, remove the meat and onion and carrot, +thicken the liquor, and serve in a dish large enough to allow plenty of +gravy. If, after removing the meat, the liquor appears too rich, pour +off the fat before thickening.</p> + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Round Steak.</b></span> Round steak can be used instead of shin for both these +receipts, but costs just double the price. It requires far +less cooking and calls for less care, and if carefully and +slowly stewed for one hour makes a very appetizing dish.</p> + +<p>Another very appetizing dish, much used by people of small +means in England, is beefsteak pudding, for which it is also +possible to use the shin, by stewing it beforehand, and +cutting it up when perfectly tender into small pieces; but +it is usually made of round steak as follows:</p></div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BEEFSTEAK_PUDDING_251" id="BEEFSTEAK_PUDDING_251"></a>BEEFSTEAK PUDDING</h4> + +<p>Line a pudding-basin with a plain crust made of chopped suet and flour +mixed with water, and simply rolled out once an inch thick; cut up a +pound of round steak, and sprinkle with flour, pepper, and salt; chop a +small onion fine, put all into the lined basin, add a cup of water, +cover over with the suet crust, and tie it in a well-floured cloth. Have +a saucepan full of water boiling rapidly, and put the basin in, the +opening downwards; leave the lid off the saucepan, and let it boil two +and one half hours, adding water if it boils away. A sheep’s kidney cut +up small adds richness to the gravy.</p> + + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Menus.</b></span> Sometimes, where great economy must be practised, and the sum +allowed for the entire meal for three people is only sixty +cents, it is difficult to remember just such accessories in +the way of vegetables as are as inexpensive in their way as +the meat, and for this reason the following very modest menus +are offered as samples of what can be accomplished in the way +of very inexpensive dinners. +</p></div> + + + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[252]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="Economical_living_menu_252" id="Economical_living_menu_252"></a>DINNER No. 1</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">POTATO BALLS, SCOTCH BROTH, TURNIPS WITH WHITE SAUCE, TAPIOCA AND APPLES</p> + +<p>This is an excellent winter dinner.</p> + +<p><a name="SCOTCH_BROTH_252" id="SCOTCH_BROTH_252"></a><i>Scotch Broth.</i>—Buy for four persons one pound or one and a quarter +pounds of scrag of mutton; chop it into pieces, and put it into an iron +pot with one quart of water, one large onion cut into slices, and a +small cupful of pearl barley. Let it simmer for two hours, adding a +little water if it becomes too thick. Serve boiling hot with the mutton +in it.</p> + +<p>This is very inexpensive. The scrag of mutton costs from eight to ten +cents; the barley is eight cents a pound—about two cents’ worth is +sufficient; the onion may be reckoned as one cent. It can be made a +little more costly by buying what is called the best end of the neck. +Six or eight chops would weigh the pound and a quarter required, and +would cost perhaps twelve to fourteen cents. The chops look somewhat +better than the chopped-up scrag, but the nourishing quality is as good +in the latter.</p> + +<p><i>Potato Balls.</i>—Choose large potatoes, and with a scoop cut out small +balls; boil these and serve them sprinkled with chopped parsley.</p> + +<p><i>Turnips.</i>—Cut into small dice, boil until tender, throw away the +water, and serve with a white sauce made of milk, flour, and a +teaspoonful of butter. Two turnips are sufficient for a dish.</p> + +<p><a name="Tapioca_and_Apples_252" id="Tapioca_and_Apples_252"></a><i>Tapioca and Apples.</i>—Apples are cheap early in the winter. Three or +four at a cent apiece should be pared and cored, and placed in a low +baking-dish with two dessertspoonfuls of tapioca, and enough water to +cover the whole. Bake in a slow oven. By soaking the tapioca over night +a less quantity will do, say, one and a quarter spoonfuls.</p> + +<p>N. B.—Both sago and tapioca are very economical because, when soaked +over night, they swell greatly, and they can both be cooked with water, +instead of milk, with good results.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[253]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe">DINNER No. 2</h4> + +<p class="subtitle"><a name="VEAL_WITH_WHITE_SAUCE_253" id="VEAL_WITH_WHITE_SAUCE_253"></a>STUFFED POTATOES, VEAL WITH WHITE SAUCE, PURIFIED CABBAGE, RENNET +CUSTARD</p> + +<p>Buy one and a quarter pounds of leg of veal at ten cents a pound; cut +the meat into dice, and place it in a stew-pan with a piece of mace and +a pint of milk. Place it back of the fire so that it will not burn, and +thicken it before serving with a teaspoonful of flour.</p> + +<p><i>Stuffed Potatoes.</i>—Bake four large potatoes until nearly done; then +cut in half, remove the insides, beat them up with milk, replace in the +skins, and serve in a pyramid.</p> + +<p><a name="Purified_Cabbage_253" id="Purified_Cabbage_253"></a><i>Purified Cabbage.</i>—Cut a cabbage into thin strips as if for salad; +boil it in salted water, but every time the water comes to the boiling +point throw it away for three successive times; after the third boiling +use milk instead of water, and add a little nutmeg. If nicely cooked in +this way, cabbage is as palatable and as digestible as cauliflower.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe">DINNER No. 3</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">STEWED CARROTS, CHOPS WITH PARSLEY SAUCE, CREAM POTATOES, <a name="APPLE_DUMPLINGS_253" id="APPLE_DUMPLINGS_253"></a>APPLE +DUMPLINGS</p> + +<p><a name="Chops_cut_from_the_shoulder_253" id="Chops_cut_from_the_shoulder_253"></a>Chops cut from the shoulder of mutton are cheaper than either neck or +loin chops, and are as good, perhaps better, for boiling. Put the chops +on in enough cold water to cover them; let them simmer for half an hour, +and at the end of that time come just to a boil; pour off the liquor +into the stock-pot, and lay the chops on a hot dish; make some white +sauce of one ounce of butter, one teaspoonful of flour, and a cup of +milk; add chopped parsley, and pour over the chops.</p> + +<p>To stew carrots cut them in very thin rounds, lay them in a stew-pan +with enough water to more than cover. Let them boil till tender, about +one quarter of an hour; then thicken the liquor with flour, and add a +tiny bit of butter.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[254]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe">DINNER No. 4</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">BOILED ONIONS, CURRY, RICE, STEWED PRUNES</p> + +<p><a name="Curry_254" id="Curry_254"></a>Curry can be made of a variety of materials. The best for the purpose +are the white meats, veal, pork, or chicken; and although curried cooked +meat is a satisfactory substitute for hash, it is not on the whole +commendable. The Indian receipt for ordinary curry is as follows:</p> + +<p>Cut the fowl or meat into joints or fair-sized pieces; dip each piece in +curry powder, or sprinkle freely with it; cut up a large onion, and have +a clove of garlic. Put all together in a frying-pan, the bottom of which +is covered with melted butter (drippings or lard will do); fry until +thoroughly brown, turning continually. When brown, remove meat into a +stew-pan; make a gravy with flour and water (or stock) in the frying-pan +from which the meat was taken; strain it over the meat, and then add a +few drops of lemon, or a little Worcester sauce—and set the stew-pan on +the side of the stove and let it simmer for two hours. The meat should +be so tender that it can be readily separated by a fork. A knife should +never be used. Eggs make a delicious curry. Boil them hard, shell, and +cut in halves; make a curry gravy as above, and pour over them. Serve +with rice around the dish.</p> + +<p><i>Rice.</i>—The proper way to serve rice with curry is perfectly dry, and +this is best secured by throwing a cupful (for an ordinary dish) into +water which is already boiling hard. Let it continue to boil rapidly +until the water has all boiled away, leaving the lid off. The rice will +then be almost tender, and by removing to the side of the stove the +evaporation will continue, and the rice drying off will be easily +separable grain from grain, which is the proper way. The success of this +method depends upon having plenty of water in the first instance.</p> + +<p><a name="Madras_curry_254" id="Madras_curry_254"></a><i>Madras</i> curry is differently made, and is served dry. For it, proceed +as for the other curry by frying all the ingredients together in butter +or drippings, but when brown continue to fry until the meat is done; +then at the last moment add a sprinkling of curry powder, shake the pan, +and turn all the contents onto a hot dish. Serve with rice.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[255]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe">DINNER No. 5</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">BRUSSELS SPROUTS, LIVER SAUTÉ, POTATOES, RICE PUDDING</p> + +<p><a name="LIVER_SAUTE_255" id="LIVER_SAUTE_255"></a>Calf’s liver can be so cooked as to be both delicate and easily +digested. The German method is a very good one. Remove any outer skin, +and cut the liver into very thin slices. Have a pan with salted boiling +water and throw in the liver. It will require only about five minutes’ +cooking if the slices are thin enough. Take them out, lay them on a hot +dish, and make a gravy by frying a cut-up onion and when brown pouring +in the liquor used to boil the liver, thickening with flour and browning +if necessary. Add at the last moment one half a large spoonful of +vinegar.</p> + +<p>Liver balls may be made by using the liver left over, chopping it very +fine with an onion, some sage, or thyme (as may be preferred), +bread-crumbs and a beaten egg, and frying in hot lard.</p> + +<p>Liver should be accompanied by a green vegetable, for which reason +Brussels sprouts are suggested. They should be cooked in salted water, +drained, and served with white sauce, flavored with nutmeg.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe">DINNER No. 6</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">FRIED SWEET POTATOES, BREAST OF MUTTON, CAPER SAUCE, STRING-BEANS (TEN +CENTS A CAN), APPLE PIE</p> + +<p><a name="Breast_of_mutton_255" id="Breast_of_mutton_255"></a>Breast of mutton is the cheapest of all mutton, and being very fat, is +considered unprofitable, but by care it can be made both palatable and +economical. Buy about three pounds of breast; place it in a pan over a +slow fire until a good deal of the fat has melted, but avoid letting it +brown; pour away the fat as it melts, and when fairly free of it place +the meat in a stew-pan with an onion cut up, and enough water to cover +it, and a little thyme. Let it cook very slowly, only simmering for two +hours; then lay on a hot dish, and pour caper sauce over it. If it is +still fat skim often while simmering.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe">SOME CHEAP SOUPS</h4> + +<p><a name="Tomato_255" id="Tomato_255"></a><i>Tomato.</i>—Turn a can of tomatoes into a stew-pan, and let come to a +boil; fry some bread in dice, place them at the bot<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[256]</a></span>tom of a soup +tureen, and rub the tomatoes through a colander over them; put the pulp +left in the colander back into the stewpan; add water, let it boil up, +and strain again into the tureen; stir in a teaspoonful of butter, +season with pepper and salt, and serve.</p> + +<p><a name="Carrot_256" id="Carrot_256"></a><i>Carrot.</i>—Boil half a dozen large carrots until quite tender; then rub +them through a colander into a saucepan; add a pint and a half of water +to the pulp, and boil; thicken with a little flour, and add a +teaspoonful of butter, pepper and salt.</p> + +<p><a name="Potato_256" id="Potato_256"></a><i>Potato.</i>—Boil half a dozen large potatoes; rub them through a sieve +(coarse hair is the best) into a saucepan in which there have been +placed a shredded onion, some chopped parsley, and about a cupful of +milk. Stir in the potato pulp, and thin with water. Season with pepper +and salt.</p> + +<p><a name="Bean_256" id="Bean_256"></a><i>Bean.</i>—Soak some beans over night, boil for one hour; add an onion +when nearly soft, rub them through a colander into a tureen in which +have been already placed some onions fried in butter or lard, and add +water if too thick.</p> + +<p><a name="Celery_256" id="Celery_256"></a><i>Celery.</i>—Take the cast-off leaves and hard ends of a bunch of celery, +and let them boil until perfectly shredded; then strain the water into +some thickened milk, and let it all come to the boiling point, but not +boil. Season with butter, pepper and salt. It is a very good addition to +this soup to break an egg into the tureen, and pour the soup upon it.</p> + +<p>Stock can be used in any of these soups instead of water.</p> + + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[257]</a></span></p> + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="PART_III" id="PART_III"></a>PART III<br /> +MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS</h3> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STERILIZED_MILK_257" id="STERILIZED_MILK_257"></a>STERILIZED MILK</h4> + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> subject of bacteria in foods has of late become a matter of careful +scientific study, and the fact has been established that milk is one of +the most subtle of disease-carriers. Hence every careful mother, before +giving it to her children, subjects it to the sterilizing process, which +is simply raising it to the degree of heat which destroys the germs. It +is found, however, that this does not kill the spores or seeds of the +bacilli, and so the operation is but a partially successful expedient. +(To render it really sterile requires heating several times on +successive days.) It has also been found that sterilizing milk robs it +of its antiscorbutic qualities, and that children fed entirely upon it +are subject to bleeding gums and other symptoms of scurvy. Milk should +be fresh as possible, as the longer it stands the greater will be the +number of bacteria, and less rich the milk in the substances on which +they feed. The first point to emphasize in the simple process of +sterilization is perfect cleanliness. Rounded bottles should be used, as +they are easier to clean. They should be well rinsed as soon as emptied, +and left to soak in soda and water, and before use they should be +subjected to a good scrubbing with scalding water and a piece of cloth +tied onto a stick or wire. The brushes made for cleaning bottles should +be avoided, as they are more than likely to be full of germs themselves. +Turn the fresh milk into the bottles as soon as cleaned. Fill them to +within an inch of the top, and stop them with antiseptic cotton. The +sterilizing is effected by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[258]</a></span> keeping the bottles in boiling water or in +live steam for at least half an hour. The water in the boiler should be +cold at first, and the heat raised gradually. This, as well as not +letting the bottles rest on the bottom of the kettle, will prevent their +breaking. Sterilizers are made which are both cheap and convenient, but +any kettle well covered will answer the purpose. The time for cooking +should be counted from the moment the water boils. Let the bottles +remain in the water until cooled, and do not remove the stopper until +the milk is to be used.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="DEVONSHIRE_CREAM_No_1_258" id="DEVONSHIRE_CREAM_No_1_258"></a>DEVONSHIRE CREAM, No. 1</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(RECEIPT OBTAINED IN ENGLAND.)</p> + +<p>Put a panful of milk in a cold place for twenty-four hours, or in summer +for twelve hours. Then place it on the fire, and let it come very slowly +to the scalding-point, but do not let it boil. Put it again in a cool +place for six or twelve hours, and then take off the cream, which will +be firm and of a peculiarly sweet flavor.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="DEVONSHIRE_CREAM_No_2_258" id="DEVONSHIRE_CREAM_No_2_258"></a>DEVONSHIRE CREAM, No. 2</h4> + +<p>Put the fresh milk on the fire, and let it very slowly come to the +scalding-point, but do not let it boil. Leave it on the fire for about +half an hour, then remove to a cold place, and let it stand for six +hours, or until the cream has all risen.</p> + +<p>Devonshire cream is thick and clotted, and is used on fruits, mush, etc. +It will keep for some time, and is particularly delicious.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRESH_BUTTER_258" id="FRESH_BUTTER_258"></a>FRESH BUTTER</h4> + +<p>The French use for table butter that which is freshly made and without +salt. One soon learns to prefer it to the best salted butter. It is very +easy to make fresh butter, but not always easy to buy it, for it keeps +only a day at its best, and therefore the surest way of having it good +is to make it. Take a half pint of double cream; turn it into a bowl, +and with a wire whip beat it until the butter forms. This will take but +a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[259]</a></span> few minutes, if the cream is of the right temperature (65°). (If very +cold, it will whip to froth as it is prepared for whipped cream.) Turn +off the milk; add some ice water, and work the butter until it is firm +and free from milk; then press it into pats, and keep it in a tight jar +on the ice until ready to use.</p> + +<p>This amount of cream, which costs ten cents, will, if rich, give a +quarter of a pound of butter. Put some fresh grass or some clover +blossoms in the jar with the butter, and it will absorb their flavor. +(See illustration facing page <a href="#illus-256-f-1">256</a>.)</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 418px;"> +<a name="illus-256-f-1" id="illus-256-f-1" href="images/illus-256-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-256-f-1.jpg" width="418" height="209" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">BUTTER PATS AND MOLDED BUTTER. (SEE PAGE <a href="#FRESH_BUTTER_258">258</a>.)</span> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1. Shells made with No. 5.</li> + <li>2. Balls made with No. 7.</li> + <li>3. Small pats made with No. 6.</li> + <li>4. Rolls made with No. 7.</li> +</ul> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TO_MAKE_WHITE_HARD_SOAP_259" id="TO_MAKE_WHITE_HARD_SOAP_259"></a>TO MAKE WHITE HARD SOAP</h4> + +<p>Save every scrap of fat each day; try out all that has accumulated, +however small the quantity. This is done by placing the scraps in a +frying-pan on the back of the range. If the heat is low, and the grease +is not allowed to get hot enough to smoke or burn, there will be no odor +from it. Turn the melted grease into lard-pails and keep them covered. +When six pounds of fat have been obtained, turn it into a dish-pan; add +a generous amount of hot water, and stand it on the range until the +grease is entirely melted. Stir it well together; then stand it aside to +cool. This is clarifying the grease. The clean grease will rise to the +top, and when it has cooled can be taken off in a cake, and such +impurities as have not settled in the water, can be scraped off the +bottom of the cake of fat.</p> + +<p>Put the clean grease into the dish-pan and melt it. Put a can of +Babbitt’s lye in a lard-pail; add to it a quart of cold water, and stir +it with a stick or wooden spoon until it is dissolved. It will get hot +when the water is added; let it stand until it cools. Remove the melted +grease from the fire, and pour in the lye slowly, stirring all the time. +Add two tablespoonfuls of ammonia. Stir the mixture constantly for +twenty minutes or half an hour, or until the soap begins to set.</p> + +<p>Let it stand until perfectly hard; then cut it into square cakes. This +makes a very good, white hard soap which will float on water. It is very +little trouble to make, and will be found<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[260]</a></span> quite an economy in a +household. Six pounds of grease make eight and a half pounds of soap.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FLOOR_POLISH_260" id="FLOOR_POLISH_260"></a>FLOOR POLISH</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>4 ounces of beeswax.</li> + <li>1 quart of turpentine.</li> + <li>Piece of resin size of hickory nut.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Cut up the beeswax and pound the resin. Melt them together. Take them +from the fire and stir in a quart of turpentine. Rub very little on the +floor with a piece of flannel; then polish with a dry flannel and a +brush.</p> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[261]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="Chapter_X" id="Chapter_X"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter X</span><br /> +<br /> +EGGS</h2> + +<div class="explanations"> +<div class="blockquot"><p>There is a best way of doing everything, even if it be to +boil an egg.—<i>Emerson.</i></p> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> variety of purposes which eggs serve, the many ways +of cooking them, their value as a highly concentrated, +nutritious, and easily-digested food, make them one of the +most useful articles of food. To have them fresh and rightly +cooked is within the power of the simplest household. They +hold the principal place as a breakfast dish, and although the +original methods of cooking them may be limited to boiling, +baking, poaching, etc., each one of these can be varied in an +indefinite number of ways, giving a menu of eggs unlimited in +extent, and thus securing always a new way of presenting them, +if desired. Urbain Dubois has recently published a book giving +300 ways of preparing eggs. The varieties are attained mostly +by the sauces and garnishings. It is not generally understood +that sauces can be served with poached, hard-boiled, and +scrambled eggs, and also with omelets.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="To_judge_of_freshness_261" id="To_judge_of_freshness_261"></a><b>To judge of freshness and how to preserve eggs.</b></span> A fresh egg should feel heavy, sink in water, and when held to +a bright light, show a clear round yolk. If old, a part of the +substance will have evaporated through the pores of the shell, +leaving a space filled with air, which will cause it to float +on water. It will also contain dark specks. To preserve<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[262]</a></span> eggs +it is necessary to stop the pores of the shells with a coating +of fat or gum or wax. This will prevent the air from entering +and decomposing the nitrogenous elements of the egg. <span class="sidenote"><b>How to pack.</b></span> They +should be packed standing on the small end, and kept in a +cool, dark place. Another way of preserving them is to immerse +them in a saturated solution of lime. +</p></div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BOILED_EGGS_262" id="BOILED_EGGS_262"></a>BOILED EGGS</h4> + +<p>Soft-boiled eggs should have the albumen creamy, not hard. To obtain +this, slow heat is required. Hence receipt No. 1 is recommended. No. 2 +gives a soft egg, but the time is difficult to determine exactly. No. 3 +gives satisfactory results. To have eggs hard boil them for twenty-five +minutes. The yolks will then be dry and mealy. When done, place them in +cold water for fifteen minutes. Then roll them lightly on the table to +crush the shells, which can then be peeled off easily, leaving the +surface smooth and white. Use a sharp, thin knife for cutting them so +the pieces will be clean and smooth.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="Boiled_eggs_No_1_262" id="Boiled_eggs_No_1_262"></a>No. 1</h4> + +<p>Place the eggs in warm water to heat the shells so they will not crack +when put into boiling water. Let the water in the saucepan boil +violently; put in the eggs carefully, and when the water again bubbles, +remove it from the fire; cover and let the eggs remain in it for five +minutes.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="Boiled_eggs_No_2_262" id="Boiled_eggs_No_2_262"></a>No. 2</h4> + +<p>Put the eggs into boiling water and cook for three minutes, the water +boiling all the time.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="Boiled_eggs_No_3_262" id="Boiled_eggs_No_3_262"></a></h4> + +<p>Place the eggs in cold water on the fire, and remove as soon as the +water boils.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[263]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="POACHED_EGGS_No_1_263" id="POACHED_EGGS_No_1_263"></a>POACHED EGGS, No. 1</h4> + +<p>The white of a poached egg should be a white, translucent, jelly-like +mass. To obtain this result, which makes it an easily digested food, it +must cook very slowly, the water never reaching the boiling-point. Place +in a shallow pan as many muffin-rings as you have eggs to poach. Turn in +enough boiling water to just cover the rings; add a little salt. When +the water boils, draw the pan to the side of the range, and break an egg +into each ring. It should take at least ten to fifteen minutes to cook +the eggs to the translucent state desired. Have ready even pieces of +toast one half inch thick, cut into rounds a trifle larger than the +muffin-rings. Moisten them with hot water, and spread with a little +butter. Remove the eggs carefully on a skimmer or pancake turner, and +place one on each round of toast; then lift off carefully the rings, and +place a spot of pepper in the center of each yolk. Arrange them +symmetrically on a dish, and garnish with parsley.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRENCH_POACHED_EGGS_No_2_263" id="FRENCH_POACHED_EGGS_No_2_263"></a>FRENCH POACHED EGGS, No. 2</h4> + +<p>These eggs, when properly cooked, are in the shape of balls, and are +used for fancy egg-dishes. Have in a deep saucepan a generous amount of +water; add a little salt and vinegar; the salt to raise the heat of the +water, the vinegar to harden the white of the egg. When the water is +violently boiling, crack the shell of the egg, and holding it close to +the water, drop the contents quickly on the point of greatest +ebullition. The egg should drop all at once, not drain into the water. +The mass will then be whole, and the violently agitated water will toss +it about, giving it a round form. When sufficiently firm to hold, remove +with a skimmer and place carefully on the bottom of an inverted tin to +drain. Poach but one egg at a time, and remove it before the yolk +hardens.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="POACHED_EGG_No_3_263" id="POACHED_EGG_No_3_263"></a>POACHED EGG, No. 3</h4> + +<p>Add a dash of salt to the white of an egg and whip it to a froth. Place +this in a deep saucer or cup, and place in the cen<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[264]</a></span>ter the whole +unbroken yolk. Set the dish in a pan of boiling water; cover and let +cook for two minutes. This is a good way to serve an egg to an invalid.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 421px;"> +<a name="illus-264-f-2" id="illus-264-f-2" href="images/illus-264-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-264-f-2.jpg" width="421" height="202" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">POACHED EGG. NO. 3. (SEE PAGE <a href="#POACHED_EGG_No_3_263">263</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRIED_EGGS_264" id="FRIED_EGGS_264"></a>FRIED EGGS</h4> + +<p>Place a little butter in a very clean frying-pan. When it bubbles, turn +in the eggs, one at a time, and keep the pan where the heat is not +sufficient to blacken the butter. If the eggs are wanted hard, turn and +fry them on both sides like a pancake.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SCRAMBLED_EGGS_264" id="SCRAMBLED_EGGS_264"></a>SCRAMBLED EGGS</h4> + +<p>Beat the eggs lightly with a fork, just enough to break them. To four +eggs add two tablespoonfuls of milk, one half teaspoonful of salt, and a +dash of pepper. Put into a very clean frying-pan one half tablespoonful +of butter. When it begins to bubble, turn in the eggs, and stir them +constantly over a slow fire until they begin to set; then remove them +from the fire and continue to stir until they are of the right +consistency. The heat of the pan will be sufficient to finish the +cooking, and there will not be danger of their being overcooked. They +should be firm only, not hard. If the pan is perfectly clean, and the +butter is not allowed to burn, they will have a bright clean color. +Scrambled eggs may be varied the same as omelets, by mixing with them +any other thing desired. The extra material should be added when the pan +is taken from the fire, and stirred with the egg until it has finished +cooking. A teaspoonful of parsley, chopped fine, gives a good flavor and +simple change. A little purée of tomatoes added makes a good +combination. With minced chicken, veal, ham, fried bacon, mushrooms, or +sweetbreads, it makes a good luncheon dish. Any pieces left over will +serve the purpose, as very little is required. Garnish the dish with +croûtons and parsley.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PLAIN_FRENCH_OMELET_264" id="PLAIN_FRENCH_OMELET_264"></a>PLAIN FRENCH OMELET</h4> + +<p>An omelet is the most difficult to prepare of any egg dish. It requires +some practice to give it the right shape (which is high in the center +and pointed at the ends), to have it soft in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[265]</a></span>side, to give it a +smooth, slightly browned surface, a texture like scrambled eggs, and to +have everything perfect. The first essential is to have a perfectly +clean and smooth pan. It is difficult to make a smooth omelet in a pan +used for other purposes; so it is well to have one kept for this use +alone. The French do not wash the omelet-pan, but scour it smooth with +salt and vinegar when it sticks, and at other times rub it clean with a +dry cloth. Before using the pan scour it well with dry salt to give it +extra smoothness.</p> + +<p>It is better to make several small omelets than one large one, using not +more than three or four eggs for each one. Beat the eggs just enough to +break them. The rule is twelve beats. To three eggs add a half +teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper, and a half teaspoonful of butter +broken into small bits. A teaspoonful of milk may be used or not. Have +the pan evenly heated and hot, but not scorching. Put in a half +teaspoonful of butter and let it run evenly over the pan, but not brown; +turn in the eggs. With a knife or fork break the cooked surface in +several places quickly, so the egg from the top may run to the bottom +and cook, or press the egg away from the sides, letting the uncooked +part run under. This must be done in the beginning so as not to make the +surface uneven. When the egg is cooked, but yet quite soft on the top, +lift the pan on one side, slip the knife under, and carefully roll the +omelet to the center. Let it cook a moment to set any egg that has run +out, and if the color is not right add a little butter, and let it run +under and slightly color the omelet. Place a hot dish over the pan and +turn them together so the omelet will fall in the right place; press it +into good shape, doubling it under on the ends if necessary. Garnish +with parsley and serve at once. Have everything ready before beginning +to cook an omelet, as it will not bear being kept while the dish is +heated, and the garnishing found.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="VARIATIONS_OF_THE_OMELET_265" id="VARIATIONS_OF_THE_OMELET_265"></a>VARIATIONS OF THE OMELET</h4> + +<div class="explanations"><p class="hanging"><a name="VARIATIONS_OF_THE_OMELET_No_1_265" id="VARIATIONS_OF_THE_OMELET_No_1_265"></a>No. 1. Sprinkle a little parsley, chopped fine, over the +top.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><a name="VARIATIONS_OF_THE_OMELET_No_2_265" id="VARIATIONS_OF_THE_OMELET_No_2_265"></a>No. 2. Turn tomato, Béchamel or mushroom sauce on the dish +around the omelet; sprinkle the top with chopped<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[266]</a></span> +mushrooms, if that sauce is used. Garnish with +pointed croûtons.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><a name="VARIATIONS_OF_THE_OMELET_No_3_266" id="VARIATIONS_OF_THE_OMELET_No_3_266"></a>No. 3. Green omelet. Mix chopped parsley with the egg +mixture before cooking the omelet, and do not brown +the surface.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><a name="VARIATIONS_OF_THE_OMELET_No_4_266" id="VARIATIONS_OF_THE_OMELET_No_4_266"></a>No. 4. Aux Fines Herbes. Chop parsley, chives, chervil, +and tarragon very fine. Mix them with the egg mixture +before cooking. When the omelet is turned out, rub +over it a little maître d’hôtel butter (see page +<a href="#MAITRE_DHOTEL_SAUCE_286">286</a>).</p> + +<p class="hanging"><a name="VARIATIONS_OF_THE_OMELET_No_5_266" id="VARIATIONS_OF_THE_OMELET_No_5_266"></a>No. 5. With Peas or Tomatoes. Before turning a plain +omelet, spread it with a few green peas or tomatoes +cooked and seasoned. Asparagus or any other vegetable +may be used in the same way.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><a name="VARIATIONS_OF_THE_OMELET_No_6_266" id="VARIATIONS_OF_THE_OMELET_No_6_266"></a>No. 6. With Ham. Spread the plain omelet with ham, chopped +fine, before turning it. Any other cooked meat may be +used in the same way.</p></div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BEATEN_OMELET_266" id="BEATEN_OMELET_266"></a>BEATEN OMELET</h4> + +<p>Beat very light the yolks and whites of three eggs separately. Season +the yolks with salt and pepper and one tablespoonful of milk; then fold +in lightly the whipped whites. Put a half teaspoonful of butter in a hot +frying or omelet pan. Let it run over the bottom and sides of the pan, +but do not let it brown. Turn in the egg mixture, spread it lightly and +evenly over the pan, and let it cook until it forms a very light crust +on the bottom; then place it in the oven about three minutes, or until +the egg is cooked through, but not hard; fold it once, and turn it onto +a hot dish. This omelet may be used the same as the French omelet in +combination with other things. Spread anything so used on the omelet +before turning it. For a sweet omelet add sugar to the yolks, and omit +the pepper. Serve at once.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SHIRRED_EGGS_266" id="SHIRRED_EGGS_266"></a>SHIRRED EGGS</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(SUR LE PLAT ... AU MIROIR ... COCOTTE.)</p> + +<p><a name="sur_le_plat_266" id="sur_le_plat_266"></a>For this dish (sur le plat) individual china dishes are generally used, +although a dish holding several eggs will do. Butter<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[267]</a></span> the dishes; break +into each one an egg; sprinkle a little salt on the whites, but not on +the yolks. Place them on the shelf of the oven so the heat will be +greatest on top; baste the yolks several times while baking with a +little hot butter. This will give them a glaze. As soon as the glaze +appears remove them from the oven, and if not sufficiently cooked, stand +them for a minute on the top of the range. Care must be used not to dry +the eggs.</p> + +<p><a name="au_miroir_267" id="au_miroir_267"></a>Several eggs cooked together in this way in a large dish, then cut into +circles with a biscuit cutter, and placed on broiled ham, stewed +kidneys, minced meat, tomato purée, or other things, are called eggs au +miroir. When baked in individual dishes, they may be varied by +sprinkling in the dish before the egg is added a little chopped ham, +chicken, mushrooms, or tomato purée, etc. <a name="cocotte_267" id="cocotte_267"></a>When baked in little +pot-shaped dishes in the same way they are called cocottes. These may be +varied by lining the dishes with a thin layer of forcemeat or minced +meat, the eggs then dropped in and poached by standing the dishes in a +pan of water in the oven. When done, a little cream or Béchamel sauce or +tomato purée is turned over the top, and sprinkled with parsley. Serve +eggs sur le plat and cocotte in the dishes in which they are baked.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 419px;"> +<a name="illus-264-f-1" id="illus-264-f-1" href="images/illus-264-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-264-f-1.jpg" width="419" height="207" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">1. SHIRRED EGG. 2. COCOTTE. (SEE PAGE <a href="#SHIRRED_EGGS_266">266</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MOLDED_EGGS_267" id="MOLDED_EGGS_267"></a>MOLDED EGGS</h4> + +<p class="subtitle"><a name="A_LA_POLIGNAC_267" id="A_LA_POLIGNAC_267"></a>(À LA POLIGNAC)</p> + +<p>Butter well some individual timbale molds; chop some parsley very fine, +and powder the inside of the buttered molds with it. To do this, place a +teaspoonful of the parsley in a buttered mold, cover it with the hand +and shake it well; then invert the mold, and strike it on the table to +free it of all that is loose. Break into each mold an egg, letting it go +in slowly from the side so no air bubbles will be held, as they make +holes and uneven surface in the cooked egg. Sprinkle the top with salt +and butter. Place the molds in a pan of hot water, half covering them, +and poach in a moderate oven eight to ten minutes, or until firm enough +to stand, but not very hard. Serve them on a flat dish with a spoonful +of white, Béchamel, or tomato<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[268]</a></span> sauce under each form. This is a very +simple way of preparing eggs, and makes a good luncheon dish.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 422px;"> +<a name="illus-272-f-2" id="illus-272-f-2" href="images/illus-272-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-272-f-2.jpg" width="422" height="202" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">MOLDED EGGS À LA POLIGNAC. (SEE PAGE <a href="#A_LA_POLIGNAC_267">267</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MOLDED_HAM_AND_EGGS_268" id="MOLDED_HAM_AND_EGGS_268"></a>MOLDED HAM AND EGGS</h4> + +<p>Mince some boiled ham very fine. Moisten it with white sauce and raw +egg, just enough to make a consistent paste. Line individual buttered +timbale molds with a thin layer of the ham paste. Break an egg in the +center of each one, and poach them in the oven eight to ten minutes, as +directed for eggs à la Polignac. Place a little white or Béchamel sauce +on the serving dish; turn the eggs onto it, and put a spoonful of sauce +on the top of each one, letting it run over, and partly mask them, as +the color of the ham is not attractive. Garnish with parsley. Another +receipt for ham and eggs is given on page <a href="#BROILED_HAM_AND_EGGS_178">178</a>. Any other meat may be +used in the same way.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="POACHED_EGGS_ON_ANCHOVY_TOAST_268" id="POACHED_EGGS_ON_ANCHOVY_TOAST_268"></a>POACHED EGGS ON ANCHOVY TOAST</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(A SUPPER DISH)</p> + +<p>Cut toasted bread into circles; spread them with anchovy paste, and +place on each piece a poached egg prepared as directed in receipt No. 1.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="POACHED_EGGS_WITH_ANCHOVY_268" id="POACHED_EGGS_WITH_ANCHOVY_268"></a>POACHED EGGS WITH ANCHOVY</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(AN ENTRÉE FOR LUNCHEON)</p> + +<p>Cut bread into circles and toast them; spread them lightly first with +anchovy paste, then with a layer of ham or tongue chopped very fine, +seasoned well, and a little moistened with stock or white sauce. Cover +the top with whipped white of egg; place a raw yolk in the center of +each one. Bake them in the oven for one minute, or just long enough to +well heat the egg.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="POACHED_EGG_WITH_TOMATO_268" id="POACHED_EGG_WITH_TOMATO_268"></a>POACHED EGG WITH TOMATO</h4> + +<p>Cut bread into slices three quarters of an inch thick, then into +circles. With a smaller cutter cut half way through the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[269]</a></span> bread, and +remove the center, leaving a form like a patty case. Fry them in hot fat +to an amber color; fill the centers with well seasoned tomato purée, and +place on the top of each one a French poached egg.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="EGGS_A_LA_VILLEROI_269" id="EGGS_A_LA_VILLEROI_269"></a>EGGS À LA VILLEROI</h4> + +<p>This dish is served as an entrée for luncheon, and is a particularly +good as well as mysterious dish, for having a soft egg inside a +croquette seems a difficult thing to get. Poach the eggs French style +(page <a href="#FRENCH_POACHED_EGGS_No_2_263">263</a>), using care to have them round and just firm enough to hold +in shape. Lift them carefully on a strainer, and place them on the +bottom of an inverted pan, leaving a space between them. When they are +cold trim them, carefully removing any ragged ends of white, and wipe +them dry. Make a Villeroi sauce as directed (page <a href="#VILLEROI_280">280</a>). When it is +partly cooled, pour it with a spoon over the eggs. It should form a +thick coating. When it is cold and well set, trim each egg neatly again, +cutting away any of the sauce that has run over the pan. Have some soft, +white crumbs, grated from the loaf or rubbed through a coarse sieve, and +mixed with grated cheese. Lift an egg on a broad knife, and place it on +the crumbs. Cover it with as many crumbs as will adhere. Lift it again +on the knife into a dish containing beaten egg, and with a spoon moisten +it well with the egg. Then place it on fresh, white crumbs that are not +mixed with cheese, and cover it completely. It can now be handled with +care and turned into good shape in the crumbs. Let the breaded eggs +stand until just ready to serve, then place three or four at a time in a +wire basket, and plunge them in smoking hot fat (see frying, page <a href="#FRYING_72">72</a>) to +take a delicate color. Do not let them become deeper than lemon color. +Place a spoonful of Villeroi sauce on each plate, using the sauce left +from coating the eggs and thinning it with stock; place an egg on the +sauce and serve at once. Chopped truffles mixed with the sauce improves +it.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[270]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="EGGS_A_LA_BOURGUINONNE_270" id="EGGS_A_LA_BOURGUINONNE_270"></a>EGGS À LA BOURGUINONNE</h4> + +<p>Poach eggs in the French style, letting them be as soft as possible. +Butter a flat baking-dish; sprinkle it with bread crumbs and grated +cheese. Place on them carefully the poached eggs. Cover them with +Béchamel or Allemande sauce (see page <a href="#VELOUTE_AND_ALLEMANDE_SAUCES_279">279</a>), and sprinkle over the top +grated Parmesan cheese. Place in a hot oven to melt the cheese, and +lightly brown the top.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="EGGS_A_LAURORE_270" id="EGGS_A_LAURORE_270"></a>EGGS À L’AURORE</h4> + +<p>Take six hard-boiled eggs, and press the yolks through a colander. Cut +the whites into half-inch dice, mix them with a well-reduced white or +Béchamel sauce, and turn them into a flat baking-dish. Cover the top +with the mashed yolks, dot it with small bits of butter, and place in a +hot oven for a few minutes to heat, but not brown. This may be served in +individual cups or shells if desired. Chopped mushrooms mixed with the +sauce makes a good variation of the dish. Another way of serving it is +to cut the whites lengthwise into quarters or eighths, and place them in +a circle on the dish; pour the sauce in the center, leaving the points +of one end uncovered, and sprinkle over the sauce the mashed yolks. In +order not to have the dish cold when served in this way, keep the cut +whites in hot water until ready to serve. Have the dish hot, and put all +together quickly at the moment of serving. (See <a href="#illus-264-f-3">illustration</a>.)</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 422px;"> +<a name="illus-264-f-3" id="illus-264-f-3" href="images/illus-264-f-3-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-264-f-3.jpg" width="422" height="196" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">EGGS À L’AURORE. (SEE PAGE <a href="#EGGS_A_LAURORE_270">270</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="GOLDEN_CREAM_TOAST_270" id="GOLDEN_CREAM_TOAST_270"></a>GOLDEN CREAM TOAST</h4> + +<p>Cut bread into even pieces; toast and butter the pieces, and moisten +them with hot water. Boil six eggs hard. Separate the whites from the +yolks; chop the whites, and press the yolks through a colander or sieve. +Make a white sauce, using one tablespoonful each of butter and flour +cooked together, and then add a cupful of cream or milk. When it is well +thickened add the chopped whites, and season with pepper and salt. +Spread this mixture on the slices of toast, and cover the top<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[271]</a></span> with the +mashed yolks. Sprinkle the yolks evenly over the pieces, so they look +very yellow. Serve very hot.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CURRIED_EGGS_271" id="CURRIED_EGGS_271"></a>CURRIED EGGS</h4> + +<p>Boil the eggs hard; remove the shells carefully as directed (page <a href="#BOILED_EGGS_262">262</a>), +and drop them in hot water to keep warm until ready to use. Mold some +boiled rice into a form resembling a nest. Have the rice boiled so each +grain is distinct (see page <a href="#TO_BOIL_RICE_222">222</a>). Place it on the hot shelf to keep +warm. Place a teaspoonful of chopped onion in a saucepan with a +tablespoonful of butter, and cook until the onion is a light yellow, but +not brown. Add an even tablespoonful of corn starch, mixed with a half +tablespoonful of curry powder and diluted with a little cold milk or +stock, then stir in slowly one and a half cupfuls of white stock or +milk. Let it cook until the corn starch is clear; add pepper and salt to +taste, and strain it. The sauce should be a bright yellow color, +perfectly smooth, and not very thick. Wipe the eggs dry, roll them in +the sauce to get evenly coated with color, and place them in the nest of +rice. Pour in enough sauce to moisten the rice without discoloring the +outside or top edge of the rice around the eggs. (See <a href="#illus-272-f-1">illustration</a>.)</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 432px;"> +<a name="illus-272-f-1" id="illus-272-f-1" href="images/illus-272-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-272-f-1.jpg" width="432" height="208" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">CURRIED EGGS IN A NEST OF RICE. (SEE PAGE <a href="#CURRIED_EGGS_271">271</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STUFFED_EGGS_No_1_271" id="STUFFED_EGGS_No_1_271"></a>STUFFED EGGS No. 1</h4> + +<p>Cut hard-boiled eggs in two lengthwise. Take out carefully the yolks, +mash them, and mix them with some chicken or other meat minced fine. +Season the mixture with pepper and salt. Moisten it with a little of any +kind of sauce or gravy, and add a little raw egg. Chopped truffles and +mushrooms may be added to the stuffing if convenient. Fill the spaces in +the whites of the eggs with the mixture; smooth it even with the top; +rub a little raw white of egg over the pieces, and press two halves +together. Roll the stuffed eggs in egg and crumbs, and fry in hot fat to +a lemon color. Serve the eggs on a napkin, and pass with them a white, +Béchamel, tomato, or any other sauce.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[272]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STUFFED_EGGS_No_2_272" id="STUFFED_EGGS_No_2_272"></a>STUFFED EGGS No. 2</h4> + +<p>Cut hard-boiled eggs in halves. Take out the yolks, leaving two +cup-shaped pieces. Mix the yolks with an equal quantity of softened +bread; season with salt, pepper, and parsley. Add a little raw egg to +bind the mixture, and fill the spaces from which the yolks were taken. +Round it on top to give the appearance of a whole yolk. Cut a little +slice off the bottom of the egg, so it will stand firm. Place them in +the oven just long enough to heat, and serve standing, on a dish covered +with white sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="EGG_CROQUETTES_272" id="EGG_CROQUETTES_272"></a>EGG CROQUETTES</h4> + +<p>Cut some hard-boiled eggs into quarter-inch dice. Mix with them some +chopped mushrooms. Stir them carefully into a well-reduced Béchamel or +white sauce made as directed for croquettes (page <a href="#SAUCE_FOR_CROQUETTE_MIXTURE_293">293</a>). Turn the mixture +onto a cold dish to cool and stiffen. Mold into croquettes, and fry in +hot fat. See directions for croquettes (page <a href="#TO_MOLD_CROQUETTES_293">293</a>).</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="OTHER_WAYS_OF_SERVING_HARD-BOILED_EGGS_272" id="OTHER_WAYS_OF_SERVING_HARD-BOILED_EGGS_272"></a>OTHER WAYS OF SERVING HARD-BOILED EGGS</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(LUNCHEON DISHES)</p> + +<p>No. 1. Cut hard-boiled eggs in two lengthwise. Arrange them +symmetrically on a flat dish, and pour over them a giblet sauce made of +chicken or turkey gravy.</p> + +<p>No. 2. Cut hard-boiled eggs into quarters. Make a ring form of boiled +rice; fill the center with the eggs; pour over them some Béchamel sauce. +Sprinkle the whole with bread-crumbs and grated cheese. Moisten the top +with melted butter, and place in the oven to brown. Serve on the dish in +which they are browned.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TOMATOES_STUFFED_WITH_EGGS_272" id="TOMATOES_STUFFED_WITH_EGGS_272"></a>TOMATOES STUFFED WITH EGGS</h4> + +<p>Select round tomatoes of uniform size; remove the skins. Cut a slice off +the tops, and take out the seeds and soft pulp. Drop into each one a raw +egg, and replace the cover. Set the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[273]</a></span> tomatoes into a buttered pan or +into a baking-dish which can be sent to the table, and place in the oven +for about ten minutes, or until the egg has set. Serve on the same dish +and with a brown or a Béchamel sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="EGGS_A_LA_REINE_273" id="EGGS_A_LA_REINE_273"></a>EGGS À LA REINE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">DOWN TOWN CLUB</p> + +<p>Make croustades, three inches in diameter and half an inch thick, from +stale American bread. Dip them in good melted butter, put them on a pan +in the oven until they are a nice light-brown color; then take out the +center of each croustade and fill with foie gras. On the top of each put +a poached egg; then pour over a cream sauce, sprinkle with truffles +chopped fine, and serve immediately.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="EGGS_LIVINGSTON_273" id="EGGS_LIVINGSTON_273"></a>EGGS LIVINGSTON</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">DOWN TOWN CLUB. (FOR SIX PERSONS)</p> + +<p>Take twelve raw eggs, half a pint of rich cream; beat well together, add +salt and pepper. Put the mixture in a flat saucepan well buttered, and +scramble; then add three quarters of a pint of well-cooked tomato meat +and three truffles hashed (not too fine). Dress on toast covered with +pâté de foie gras. Serve very hot.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="EGGS_AU_BEURRE_NOIR_273" id="EGGS_AU_BEURRE_NOIR_273"></a>EGGS AU BEURRE <a name="corr22" id="corr22"></a>NOIR</h4> + +<p>Poach or fry the number of eggs desired and place them on a flat dish. +Pour over them enough brown butter sauce to well moisten them. (See page +<a href="#BEURRE_NOIR_291">291</a>.)</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[274]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SPANISH_OMELET_274" id="SPANISH_OMELET_274"></a>SPANISH OMELET</h4> + +<p>Make a plain French omelet, using four eggs (see page <a href="#PLAIN_FRENCH_OMELET_264">264</a>). Just before +it is done place in the center a veal kidney, which has been well +soaked, then cut into half-inch dice and sautéd until tender in a +tablespoonful of butter. Do not cook the kidney too long or it will +toughen.</p> + +<p>Fold the omelet and turn it onto a dish. Pour around the omelet a tomato +sauce (see page <a href="#TOMATO_SAUCE_285">285</a>). Spread over the top of the omelet a sweet green +pepper, which has been boiled until tender and then cut into narrow +strips.</p> + +<p>The sauce, the kidney and the pepper should be prepared first, as the +omelet must be served as soon as the eggs are cooked.</p> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[275]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="Chapter_XI" id="Chapter_XI"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter XI</span><br /> +<br /> +SAUCES</h2> + +<p class="poem">“There are many sauces besides hunger.”</p> + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="General_directions_275" id="General_directions_275"></a><b>General directions.</b></span> <span class="smcap">The</span> basis of most sauces is butter and flour cooked together, +which makes a roux or thickening. If for a white sauce, the +flour is not colored; if for a brown sauce, the flour is +cooked until brown. To this basis are added the flavor and +seasoning suited to the dish with which it is to be served. +For meats, it is the flavor of meat, vegetables, spices, and +herbs; for entrées, it is the flavor of meat or chicken, and +cream; for vegetables it is butter, cream or milk, and eggs; +for fish, the same, with a little lemon-juice or vinegar to +give piquancy. The basis of pudding sauces is butter and +sugar.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Uses and variations of the white sauce.</b></span> Sauces are easily made, and greatly improve the dishes they +accompany. Many dishes depend upon sauces to make them +palatable, and many made-over dishes are very acceptable when +served with a good sauce. The first and most simple one to +learn is the white sauce, and this is used for very many +dishes. It is made by melting a tablespoonful of butter, and +then adding a tablespoonful of flour. To this roux is added a +half pint (one cupful) of milk for white sauce, or of cream +for cream sauce. If a cupful of stock (or half stock and half +milk) is used it becomes a Béchamel sauce; then, if a couple +of egg-yolks are added, it makes a poulette sauce, which is +the one generally used with chicken, sweetbreads, oysters, +etc.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[276]</a></span></p> + +<p>The superiority of French cooking is largely in the variety of +their sauces, to the preparation of which much care is given. +It cannot be too strongly urged that every housekeeper will +give attention to this important branch of cooking.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Stock for sauces.</b></span> Every kitchen can produce a stock made from odds and ends +unsuitable for other purposes than the stock-pot, and this +stock is most useful in preparing sauces, giving a flavor +not obtained in specially prepared stock.</p> + +<p>A French cook keeps at hand the different essences required +to combine in sauces, such as a Mirepoix (vegetable flavor), +which is made by cutting into dice an onion, carrot, and +turnip, celery, parsley, bay-leaf and bits of meat, frying +them in fat pork or butter, then adding a little water, and +simmering an hour, or until the flavor of the vegetables is +extracted; a Spanish sauce, made by adding stock instead of +water to the fried vegetables; a veal or white stock; a +brown and a white roux, and glaze.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>General directions.</b></span> The flavor of vegetables can easily be obtained by frying them +in the butter used in making the roux, before the flour is +added. In preparing sauces with milk, use a double boiler, or +set a small saucepan into a larger one containing water. The +milk will be scalded when the water boils in the double +boiler. Brown sauces need long slow cooking to blend the +flavors. If the butter rises to the top add a little more +stock or milk; stir it well until it boils, and it will then +become smooth again. Do this just before serving. Have always +a small strainer at hand, and strain sauces so there will be +no lumps in them. If stock is not at hand, substitute beef +extract, which comes in jars, using it in the proportion of +one teaspoonful of extract to a cupful of hot water. In this +case fry vegetables in the roux. +</p></div> + + + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[277]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="GLAZE_277" id="GLAZE_277"></a>GLAZE</h4> + +<p>Glaze is much used in high-class cooking. It gives to meats a smooth and +polished surface. Cold meats to be garnished for suppers are much +improved in appearance by being glazed. Glaze is also added to sauces to +give them richness and flavor.</p> + +<p>To make glaze: Take good consommé of beef (or a white stock, when it is +to be used for fowls or white meat), clear it, and reduce it to one +quarter (or one quart of stock to one cupful). It will quickly boil down +in an open saucepan and become like a thick paste. It will keep some +time if closed in a preserve jar and kept in a cool place. When used, +heat it in a double saucepan and apply it with a brush.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ROUX_FOR_SAUCES_277" id="ROUX_FOR_SAUCES_277"></a>ROUX FOR SAUCES</h4> + +<p>One tablespoonful of butter; one tablespoonful of flour.</p> + +<p>Roux is used for thickening, giving body to sauces, etc. It is made by +cooking together an equal quantity of butter and flour for about five +minutes, or until the flour has lost the raw taste. When the roux is +cooked, draw the saucepan to a cooler part of the range, and add the +liquor (stock or milk) slowly, in the proportion of one cupful of liquor +to one tablespoonful each of butter and flour, and stir until smooth. If +the roux is for white sauce do not let the flour color. If for brown +sauce, let it cook until brown, but be careful that it does not burn. If +more flavor is wanted, fry a few slices of onion or other vegetables in +the butter before adding the flour. Sauces thickened in this way are +much better than those in which uncooked flour is used. In making roux +do not use more butter than flour. Where more butter is required in a +sauce, add it, in small pieces at a time, after the other ingredients +are mixed with the roux. This will prevent an oily line forming.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="WHITE_SAUCE_277" id="WHITE_SAUCE_277"></a>WHITE SAUCE</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 tablespoonful of butter.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of flour.</li> + <li>1 cupful of milk.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>¼ teaspoonful of pepper.</li> +</ul> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[278]</a></span>Put one tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan. When it bubbles add one +tablespoonful of flour, and cook, stirring constantly, for five minutes, +but do not let it color; draw it to a cooler part of the range and add +very slowly, stirring all the time, one cupful of cold milk, and stir +until perfectly smooth and a little thickened. Season with salt and +pepper. Most of the white sauces are simple variations from this sauce. +Water may be used instead of milk, and it is then called drawn-butter +sauce. It can be made richer by adding a little more butter, in small +pieces, one at a time, after the milk is in; also by adding the beaten +yolk of an egg. If the egg is added remove the pan from the fire and let +it cool a little before adding the egg; then cook for a minute, but do +not let it boil, or the egg will curdle.</p> + +<p>The secret of making a good white sauce is in cooking the flour until +the starch grains have burst, which removes the raw and pasty taste one +finds where this care is not used. There is no difficulty in making it +smooth if the milk is turned in slowly, as directed above. A common way +of making this sauce is to rub the butter and flour together, and then +stir them into the boiling milk, but this does not give as good a result +as when a roux is made. The intense heat of frying butter cooks the +flour quickly, while milk boiled long enough to cook the flour is +changed in flavor. When this sauce is used as the basis of other sauces, +the amount of salt and pepper must be varied to suit the requirements of +the other ingredients.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="WHITE_SAUCE_FOR_FISH_278" id="WHITE_SAUCE_FOR_FISH_278"></a>WHITE SAUCE FOR FISH</h4> + +<p>Make a white sauce, using with the milk two tablespoonfuls of the water +in which the fish is boiled. Boil in the water with the fish five +cloves, three bay-leaves, one onion, eight peppercorns, and two +tablespoonfuls of salt. This will give flavor to the fish and to the +sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="EGG_SAUCE_FOR_BOILED_FISH_278" id="EGG_SAUCE_FOR_BOILED_FISH_278"></a>EGG SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH</h4> + +<p>To a pint, or two cupfuls, of white sauce, add three hard-boiled eggs +cut into slices or small dice, and, if liked, a teaspoonful of chopped +parsley.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[279]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CAPER_SAUCE_279" id="CAPER_SAUCE_279"></a>CAPER SAUCE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(BOILED MUTTON)</p> + +<p>Add to two cupfuls of white sauce four tablespoonfuls of capers. See +also page <a href="#CAPER_SAUCE_164">164</a>.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="OYSTER_SAUCE_279" id="OYSTER_SAUCE_279"></a>OYSTER SAUCE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(BOILED FISH OR FOWLS)</p> + +<p>Scald the oysters in their own liquor until the edges curl. Make a white +sauce using oyster-liquor instead of milk, or use half milk and half +oyster-liquor. Add the oysters just before serving. One dozen oysters +are enough for one pint of sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CELERY_SAUCE_279" id="CELERY_SAUCE_279"></a>CELERY SAUCE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(BOILED FOWLS)</p> + +<p>Cut one half cupful of celery into small pieces. Boil it in salted water +until tender. Add the cooked celery to one cupful of white sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="LOBSTER_SAUCE_279" id="LOBSTER_SAUCE_279"></a>LOBSTER SAUCE</h4> + +<p>Chop the meat of a lobster into coarse pieces. Add it to a pint of white +sauce. Add also a little of the coral (which has been dried and pounded +to a powder), and a little paprica.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="VELOUTE_AND_ALLEMANDE_SAUCES_279" id="VELOUTE_AND_ALLEMANDE_SAUCES_279"></a>VELOUTÉ AND ALLEMANDE SAUCES</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(FISH AND VEGETABLES)</p> + +<p>Make a white sauce (page <a href="#WHITE_SAUCE_277">277</a>), using chicken or veal stock instead of +milk.</p> + +<p><i>Allemande.</i> Remove the Velouté from the fire; add two yolks beaten with +one half cupful of cream or milk, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, +and a dash of nutmeg. Put on the fire a moment to thicken, but do not +let it boil. Continue to stir for some moments after removing from the +fire.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BECHAMEL_SAUCE_279" id="BECHAMEL_SAUCE_279"></a>BÉCHAMEL SAUCE</h4> + +<p>Make a white sauce, using for liquor one half each of rich white stock +and milk, or use stock alone. A slice of onion, car<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[280]</a></span>rot and turnip +should be fried in the butter before the flour is added. A richer +Béchamel is made by adding a little cream and chopped mushrooms.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="POULETTE_SAUCE_280" id="POULETTE_SAUCE_280"></a>POULETTE SAUCE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(FOR CHICKEN-BREASTS, SWEETBREADS, AND OTHER ENTRÉES)</p> + +<p>Take a pint of white sauce made with chicken or veal stock instead of +milk. Beat four yolks with a cupful of cream. Remove the sauce from the +fire, and add it slowly to the eggs and cream, stirring all the time. +Put it again on the fire a moment to thicken; but do not let it boil, or +it will curdle. Add one tablespoonful of butter slowly, a small piece at +a time, the juice of half a lemon, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, +and a dash of nutmeg. Serve at once. Do not put the sauce together until +it is time to serve, as it is likely to curdle after the eggs and +lemon-juice are in. Stir constantly, and for a moment after removing +from the fire.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="VILLEROI_280" id="VILLEROI_280"></a>VILLEROI</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(TO USE FOR EGGS VILLEROI, AND FOR COATING COLD MEATS THAT ARE TO BE +HEATED AGAIN)</p> + +<p>Put in a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter and a slice of onion; fry +for a few moments, but not brown. Remove the onion, and add two +tablespoonfuls of flour; cook but do not brown the flour. Dilute with +two cupfuls of stock, and boil, stirring constantly until the sauce is +very thick. Season with one half teaspoonful of salt, one quarter +teaspoonful of pepper, a dash each of cayenne and nutmeg; remove from +the fire, and add the yolks of four eggs beaten with one half cupful of +cream or milk. Place again on the fire, and let thicken until quite +stiff and elastic. Do not let it boil after the eggs are added, or it +will curdle; stir constantly. When it is beginning to cool pour it over +the articles it is to coat, or roll the articles in it as the receipts +direct. Chopped parsley, truffles, and mushrooms may be mixed with this +sauce, if desired. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[281]</a></span> thick sauce left from coating the articles may +be diluted with stock or milk, and served with them. This amount of +sauce is sufficient to coat and to give diluted sauce for a dozen eggs +villeroi.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="HOLLANDAISE_281" id="HOLLANDAISE_281"></a>HOLLANDAISE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(BOILED FISH, ASPARAGUS, CAULIFLOWER)</p> + +<p>In a saucepan or bowl rub to a cream one half cupful of butter; add the +yolks of four eggs, and beat well together; then the juice of half a +lemon, one half teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of cayenne; then add +slowly one cupful of hot water; mix well, and set it into a saucepan of +hot water. Stir constantly until the sauce becomes like a thick cream. +Do not let it boil. Remove from the fire, and continue to stir for a few +minutes. It should be creamy and consistent. It is one of the best +sauces to use with fish. It is also good cold with cold fish or meats.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHAUDFROID_SAUCE_281" id="CHAUDFROID_SAUCE_281"></a>CHAUDFROID SAUCE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(FOR COVERING COLD CHICKEN OR MEATS WHICH ARE TO BE SERVED COLD)</p> + +<p>Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a saucepan; when it bubbles add +two tablespoonfuls of flour. Let it cook well, but not brown; stir all +the time. Add two cupfuls of chicken or of veal stock, and stir until it +is well thickened. Season with salt and pepper. Then add a half box, or +one ounce, of gelatine which has soaked an hour in a half cupful of cold +water. Stir until the gelatine has dissolved. Strain the sauce, and let +it just begin to stiffen before using it. Put a little on ice to see if +it will be of the right firmness. If it is too stiff add a little more +stock; if not hard enough add a little more gelatine. It needs to be +only firm enough to hold its place well without running.</p> + +<p>A yellow color can be given it by adding the yolks of three eggs just +before removing it from the fire. A brown chaudfroid, which is used for +game and dark meats, is made by browning the roux, diluting it with beef +stock; and a deeper<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[282]</a></span> color can be obtained with a few drops of kitchen +bouquet. This sauce, poured over boned chicken or other meats, gives +them a smooth, even surface. They can then be elaborately decorated with +truffles, making ornamental cold dishes for suppers. Before covering a +galantine with chaudfroid fill any irregularities on the surface of the +meat with a little of the sauce which has been placed on ice to set. The +surface can in this way be made perfectly even, so when the sauce is +turned over it the galantine will be smooth. (See picture, page <a href="#illus-192-f-3">192</a>.)</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BROWN_SAUCE_282" id="BROWN_SAUCE_282"></a>BROWN SAUCE</h4> + +<p>Put a tablespoonful of chopped onion and a tablespoonful of butter in a +saucepan on the fire. Let them both become brown; then add a +tablespoonful of flour, and brown that also. Stir all the time. Add a +cupful of beef or brown stock, and cook until the sauce is a little +thickened. Season with pepper and salt. Strain it to remove the onion. A +sauce poivrade is made by adding to the brown sauce, at the same time +that the stock is put in, a cupful of claret, two cloves, a bay-leaf, a +little thyme and parsley. In place of claret, a teaspoonful of mustard, +the juice of half a lemon, and a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar gives a +Robert sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ESPAGNOLE_282" id="ESPAGNOLE_282"></a>ESPAGNOLE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(CHOPS, CUTLETS, CROQUETTES, AND SEASONING FOR OTHER SAUCES)</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>2½ cupfuls of stock or consommé.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of gelatine.</li> + <li>4 tablespoonfuls of butter.</li> + <li>4 tablespoonfuls of flour.</li> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls of chopped onion.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of chopped lean ham.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful each of chopped carrot and celery.</li> + <li>1 bay-leaf.</li> + <li>3 cloves.</li> + <li>1 piece of parsley.</li> + <li>1 piece of mace.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of pepper.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Soak the gelatine in a half cupful of stock. Put the butter in a +saucepan; when hot add the chopped vegetables and ham, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[283]</a></span> let them +brown; then add the flour, and let that brown. Stir constantly so it +will not burn. When well browned add slowly the stock, then the herbs, +spices, salt, and pepper, and let cook for five minutes. Cover the +saucepan. Set it into a larger one containing hot water. Draw it to the +side of the range to simmer slowly for two hours. Then stir in the +soaked gelatine, and let stand another half hour. When ready to serve +skim off the fat and strain. If a stock made with knuckle of veal is +used, the gelatine will not be needed. It is used to give smoothness. +This is the richest of the brown sauces, and in French cooking is used +as the basis, or seasoning, for them all. If too thick dilute with +stock.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHAMPAGNE_SAUCE_283" id="CHAMPAGNE_SAUCE_283"></a>CHAMPAGNE SAUCE (HAM)</h4> + +<p>Put in a saucepan one cupful of champagne, two cloves, six peppercorns, +one bay-leaf, one teaspoonful of sugar. Let them infuse for five minutes +over the fire; then add a cupful of Espagnole or of brown sauce, and a +little mushroom liquor if convenient. Let it simmer for ten minutes and +strain.</p> + +<p>Any white wine may be used instead of champagne.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PIQUANTE_SAUCE_283" id="PIQUANTE_SAUCE_283"></a>PIQUANTE SAUCE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(BAKED FISH, ROAST AND BROILED MEATS)</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>2 cupfuls of brown stock.</li> + <li>4 tablespoonfuls of butter.</li> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls of flour.</li> + <li>4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar.</li> + <li>Dash of cayenne.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of chopped onion.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of chopped capers.</li> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls of chopped pickle.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of sugar.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Put the butter in a saucepan, and when it begins to brown add the flour, +and stir until it is well browned, but do not let it burn. Draw to a +cooler place on the range, and slowly add the stock, stirring +constantly, add salt and cayenne, and let simmer for ten minutes. In +another saucepan boil the vinegar, onion, and sugar rapidly for five +minutes; then add it to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[284]</a></span> sauce, and at the same time add the capers, +pickle and tarragon vinegar. Stir well, and let cook for two minutes to +heat the pickle. If the sauce becomes too thick dilute it with a little +water. For piquante sauce No 2, to two cupfuls of Espagnole sauce add +capers and pickles.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SOUBISE_SAUCE_284" id="SOUBISE_SAUCE_284"></a>SOUBISE SAUCE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(FOR CHOPS)</p> + +<p>Fry three or four onions until soft in a tablespoonful of butter; press +them through a strainer, and mix with a cupful of brown sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="HORSERADISH_SAUCE_284" id="HORSERADISH_SAUCE_284"></a>HORSERADISH SAUCE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(ROAST OR BOILED BEEF)</p> + +<p>Mix together two tablespoonfuls of soft white crumbs of bread and two +tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish. Cover them with cream or milk, and +let soak for two hours. Then rub them through a sieve, and add one +quarter teaspoonful of salt, one quarter teaspoonful of sugar, and two +tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Enough milk should be used to give it the +consistency of cream. This sauce will keep in a cool place for several +days.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MUSTARD_SAUCE_284" id="MUSTARD_SAUCE_284"></a>MUSTARD SAUCE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(CORNED BEEF, BROILED AND ROASTED MEATS)</p> + +<p>Make a roux of one tablespoonful of butter and one teaspoonful of flour. +Add to it</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 cupful of stock.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of French mustard.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of vinegar.</li> + <li>A dash of cayenne.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of dry English mustard.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful salt.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of sugar.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Cook slowly for ten minutes.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CURRY_SAUCE_284" id="CURRY_SAUCE_284"></a>CURRY SAUCE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(FOR EGGS, CHICKEN, ETC.)</p> + +<p>Put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan. When it bubbles add a +teaspoonful of onion-juice, and a tablespoonful of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[285]</a></span> curry powder mixed +with two tablespoonfuls of flour. Let it cook a few minutes, and add +slowly two cupfuls of milk. Stir constantly.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="OLIVE_SAUCE_285" id="OLIVE_SAUCE_285"></a>OLIVE SAUCE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(DUCKS)</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 dozen stoned olives.</li> + <li>1 cupful of brown stock.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of butter.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of flour.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful each of chopped onion and carrot.</li> + <li>1 clove.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>Dash of pepper.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Put the butter in a saucepan; when it bubbles add the chopped onion and +carrot and let them brown; then the flour and let that brown. Then add +slowly the stock; season with salt, pepper and one clove; let simmer for +twenty minutes and strain. Stone the olives, leaving the meat in one +piece; boil them in a little water for half an hour. Add the cooked +olives to the strained sauce, and cook for five minutes; or, dilute a +cupful of Espagnole sauce with a cupful of brown stock, and add the +cooked olives. If brown sauce is not at hand, use extract of beef from +jar (one teaspoonful of extract to one cupful of hot water). If the +sauce gets too thick dilute it with a little stock.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TOMATO_SAUCE_285" id="TOMATO_SAUCE_285"></a>TOMATO SAUCE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(MEATS, CROQUETTES AND ENTRÉES)</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls of butter.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of flour.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful each of carrot and onion.</li> + <li>½ can of tomatoes.</li> + <li>Parsley.</li> + <li>1 bay-leaf.</li> + <li>3 cloves.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>¼ teaspoonful of pepper.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Put one tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan; add the chopped onion and +carrot, and let slightly brown; add the flour and cook five minutes, +stirring constantly. Then add the tomatoes, cloves, bay-leaf, salt and +pepper. Cook slowly for half an hour, or until the tomatoes are soft and +reduced to right con<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[286]</a></span>sistency. Then add a tablespoonful of butter (a +small piece at a time to prevent an oily line); strain; add more salt +and pepper if necessary.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MUSHROOM_SAUCE_286" id="MUSHROOM_SAUCE_286"></a>MUSHROOM SAUCE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(USING CANNED MUSHROOMS)</p> + +<p>Make a brown roux, using one tablespoonful each of butter and of flour; +add a cupful of stock and a half cupful of liquor from the can of +mushrooms. Cook for five minutes, stirring all the time; then add one +can of drained mushrooms, a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, a half +teaspoonful of salt and a quarter teaspoonful of pepper. Let the +mushrooms become well heated; then remove from the fire and stir in the +yolk of one raw egg rubbed with a teaspoonful of butter. Stir the hot +sauce until the egg is set; add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and +serve; or a half teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet may be used and the egg +and parsley omitted.</p> + +<p>This sauce may be served on the same dish with beefsteaks, fowls, etc., +and the mushrooms laid evenly, top side up, around the meat as a +garnish.</p> + +<p>It may be made a white sauce by making a white roux, using white stock +and leaving out the kitchen bouquet. The mushrooms are sometimes cut +into halves or quarters.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MAITRE_DHOTEL_SAUCE_286" id="MAITRE_DHOTEL_SAUCE_286"></a>MAÎTRE D’HÔTEL SAUCE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(BROILED FISH AND STEAKS)</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls of butter.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of lemon juice.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of pepper.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Rub the butter to a cream; add salt, pepper, and parsley chopped very +fine; then the lemon-juice slowly. Spread it on broiled meat or fish; +let the heat of the meat melt the butter. The dish must not be put in +the oven after the sauce is spread, or the parsley will lose its +freshness and color. This sauce, which greatly improves as well as +garnishes broiled meat, can be mixed and kept for some time in a cool +place. Soften a little<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[287]</a></span> before using so it will spread evenly, and be +quickly melted by the hot meat.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MINT_SAUCE_287" id="MINT_SAUCE_287"></a>MINT SAUCE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(SPRING LAMB)</p> + +<p>1 bunch of mint; 1 tablespoonful of sugar; ¾ cupful of vinegar. Rinse +the mint in cold water; chop it very fine. Dissolve the sugar in the +vinegar; add the mint and let stand for an hour, to infuse before using. +If the vinegar is too strong, dilute it with cold water. If the sauce is +wanted hot, heat the vinegar and sugar, and stir in the chopped mint +just before serving.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BREAD_SAUCE_287" id="BREAD_SAUCE_287"></a>BREAD SAUCE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(PARTRIDGES, QUAIL, GROUSE)</p> + +<p>Sift two cupfuls of dry bread-crumbs. Put on the fire a pint of milk and +a small onion sliced. When the milk is scalded remove the onion, and add +enough of the fine crumbs to thicken it. Season with a tablespoonful of +butter, a half teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper and of nutmeg. Put +the coarse crumbs into a pan with a tablespoonful of butter and sauté +them a light brown, stirring all the time; add a dash of paprica; serve +the fried crumbs on the dish with the game; serve the sauce in a boat.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="JELLY_SAUCE_287" id="JELLY_SAUCE_287"></a>JELLY SAUCE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(GAME AND MUTTON)</p> + +<p>Melt in a saucepan one tumblerful of currant or of grape jelly; add +slowly one tablespoonful of butter. Let boil one minute; remove, and +just before serving add one tablespoonful of sherry or of red wine.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CRANBERRY_SAUCE_287" id="CRANBERRY_SAUCE_287"></a>CRANBERRY SAUCE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(ROAST TURKEY, CHICKEN, MUTTON)</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 quart of cranberries.</li> + <li>2 cupfuls of sugar.</li> + <li>2 cupfuls of water.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Pick over the berries carefully and wash in cold water. Put them in a +porcelain-lined or granite-ware saucepan, with enough<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[288]</a></span> water to cover +them. Cook until tender; then add the sugar, and remove as soon as the +sugar is dissolved. It may be served hot or cold. If thoroughly cooked +the skins improve the sauce. If strained and put in a mold to cool, it +becomes a jelly. If the berries are carefully selected, and boiled +slowly without being stirred, they will retain their shape, and the +sauce will be clear and transparent.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="APPLE_SAUCE_288" id="APPLE_SAUCE_288"></a>APPLE SAUCE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(GOOSE AND PORK)</p> + +<p>Peel, quarter, and core six tart apples. Put them in a porcelain-lined +or granite-ware saucepan, and cover with water. Boil until tender, then +press them through a colander; add a teaspoonful of butter, a dash of +nutmeg or cinnamon, and sweeten to taste. When used with meats apple +sauce should be tart.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BEARNAISE_288" id="BEARNAISE_288"></a>BÉARNAISE</h4> + +<p>This is a very good sauce to use either hot or cold with meats and fish. +It is very like Mayonnaise.</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>Yolks of 4 eggs.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>Dash of cayenne.</li> + <li>4 tablespoonfuls of salad oil.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of hot water.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Beat the yolks; add the oil and water; stand the bowl in boiling water +and stir until the eggs thicken; remove and add salt, pepper, and +vinegar. It should be creamy and of the consistency of Mayonnaise. A few +chopped capers, olives, and gherkins make it a good Tartare sauce; and a +little tomato purée will make it a red Mayonnaise to use with cold +boiled fish.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MAYONNAISE_288" id="MAYONNAISE_288"></a>MAYONNAISE</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>Yolk of 1 egg.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>Dash of cayenne.</li> + <li>1 cupful of salad oil.</li> + <li>1½ teaspoonfuls of lemon-juice.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Let the oil and egg be thoroughly chilled before beginning to make +Mayonnaise. In summer it is well to stand the soup<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[289]</a></span>-plate in which the +dressing is being mixed in a dish of cracked ice; stir constantly with a +silver fork or a wooden spoon. Have the yolk entirely free from any +white of the egg; add drop by drop the oil. The success depends on +adding the oil slowly at first. It is well to spend half the time in +incorporating the first two spoonfuls of oil; after that it can be added +in larger quantities. After the dressing has become a little thick, +alternate a few drops of lemon-juice or of vinegar with the oil; a +little tarragon vinegar gives good flavor. If mustard is liked, add one +quarter teaspoonful of dry mustard. Add the salt and pepper last. If the +sauce curdles, take another yolk, and add slowly the curdled Mayonnaise. +A few drops of ice water or a small bit of ice added to the mixture when +it begins to curdle will sometimes bring it back.</p> + +<p>This dressing will keep for some time in a closed jar in the ice-box. +The proportions given are right, but it is usually desirable to make a +larger quantity. With care more oil can be added to the egg, which will +give more sauce.</p> + +<p>A very safe mixture, and one recommended for summer, is made by using +the yolk of a hard-boiled egg with a raw yolk. With this the dressing is +more quickly made and seldom curdles. Lemon-juice makes a whiter +dressing than vinegar, but it also makes it a little softer.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="WHITE_MAYONNAISE_289" id="WHITE_MAYONNAISE_289"></a>WHITE MAYONNAISE</h4> + +<p>Just before serving add to the above quantity of Mayonnaise one half +cupful of very stiff whipped cream, or the white of one half an egg +whipped very stiff.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="GREEN_MAYONNAISE_289" id="GREEN_MAYONNAISE_289"></a>GREEN MAYONNAISE</h4> + +<p>Take some green herbs, such as chervil, tarragon, chives, parsley, a +leaf of spinach, lettuce or watercress, and pound them in a mortar with +a little lemon-juice. Express the juice and add it to the Mayonnaise. It +is then called Ravigote sauce. Mashed green peas may be used to give +color and also more consistency to the sauce when it is to be used to +cover cold fish. A little vegetable green coloring can be added if the +color is not sufficiently deep, but a delicate color is preferable.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[290]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RED_MAYONNAISE_290" id="RED_MAYONNAISE_290"></a>RED MAYONNAISE</h4> + +<p>Dry some lobster coral; pound it to a powder and rub it through a sieve; +mix it with a little lemon-juice and add it to the Mayonnaise. Use a +little carmine color if deeper shade is wanted. Or, color with +well-strained tomato purée.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="JELLY_MAYONNAISE_290" id="JELLY_MAYONNAISE_290"></a>JELLY MAYONNAISE</h4> + +<p>Instead of yolks of eggs, use aspic jelly as a medium to hold the oil; +mix the sauce the same as the ordinary Mayonnaise. Or, to a cupful of +aspic jelly (see page <a href="#ASPIC_321">321</a>) or chicken aspic add a cupful of oil, one +tablespoonful of vinegar (one half being tarragon if convenient), a few +drops of lemon-juice, salt, pepper, and cayenne; stir together all at +once, the jelly being warmed enough to be liquid. Place it on ice and +stir until it begins to set; keep it in a cool place. This jelly softens +easily. It is used to coat fish or meats, and should be put on when a +little soft. It will then make a smooth and polished surface. Keep the +meats coated with the jelly on ice until ready to serve. It is used also +for salads in forms, or Russian salads (see <a href="#RUSSIAN_SALAD_383">receipts</a>).</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MAYONNAISE_WITH_ARROWROOT_290" id="MAYONNAISE_WITH_ARROWROOT_290"></a>MAYONNAISE WITH ARROWROOT</h4> + +<p>Smooth a tablespoonful of arrowroot in cold water; stir it over the fire +until it becomes smooth, clear and firm like starch; when a little +cooled, add salt, pepper, mustard, and two or three yolks, and beat +until smooth; when cold add oil as in regular Mayonnaise. This mixture +will not curdle.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TARTARE_290" id="TARTARE_290"></a>TARTARE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(FISH AND COLD MEATS)</p> + +<p>To a cupful of Mayonnaise made with mustard, add one tablespoonful of +capers, three olives, and two gherkins, all chopped very fine; also the +juice expressed from some pounded green herbs, as in green Mayonnaise or +Ravigote (see <a href="#GREEN_MAYONNAISE_289">above</a>); or chop the herbs fine and mix them in the +dressing. A good<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[291]</a></span> Tartare sauce can be made by using tarragon vinegar +and a little onion-juice when mixing the Mayonnaise, and adding parsley +and capers, both chopped very fine, just before serving it.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="AGRA_DOLCE_291" id="AGRA_DOLCE_291"></a>AGRA DOLCE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(SOUR SWEET)</p> + +<p class="subtitle">(AN ITALIAN SAUCE USED WITH VENISON, SWEETBREADS, CALF’S-HEAD, AND +MUTTON)</p> + +<p>Mix together two heaping tablespoonfuls of brown sugar, one quarter bar +of grated chocolate, one tablespoonful each of shredded candied orange +and lemon-peel, ten blanched almonds shredded, one half cupful of +currants, and one cupful of vinegar. Let them soak for two hours. Then +pour it over the cooked meat, and simmer for ten minutes.</p> + +<p>This receipt was obtained in Florence, where it is a well-known and +favorite sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BEURRE_NOIR_291" id="BEURRE_NOIR_291"></a>BEURRE NOIR OR BROWN BUTTER SAUCE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(EGGS, CALF’S HEAD, CALF’S BRAINS, FISH)</p> + +<p>Put a quarter of a pound of butter in a saucepan and let it cook slowly +until it has browned, then add three tablespoonfuls of hot vinegar, one +tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and a dash of pepper and of salt.</p> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[292]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="Chapter_XII" id="Chapter_XII"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter XII</span><br /> +<br /> +ENTRÉES</h2> + + +<div class="explanations"><p>Entrées are the dishes served between any of the regular +courses.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CROQUETTES_292" id="CROQUETTES_292"></a>CROQUETTES</h4> + +<h5 class="subrecipe">GENERAL DIRECTIONS</h5> + +<p><span class="smcap">Croquettes</span> are simply minced meat mixed with a thick sauce, +then rolled into shape and fried. Any kind of cooked meat, fish, +shell-fish, hard-boiled eggs, and some kinds of vegetables +may be served as croquettes. Croquettes may be plain, using one +kind of meat alone, or made richer by combining with it +sweetbreads, brains, mushrooms, truffles, etc. Whatever meat +mixture is used, the rules for sauce, molding, and frying are +the same. <span class="sidenote"><b>Shape.</b></span> The croquettes may be shaped like cylinders, pyramids +or chops. The meat should be chopped very fine. (An “Enterprise +Chopper” is recommended.) They should be very soft and creamy +inside, and should be fried to a light golden color only. <span class="sidenote"><b>How to serve.</b></span> Serve +them on a napkin and garnish with parsley. +</p></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 421px;"> +<a name="illus-292-f-2" id="illus-292-f-2" href="images/illus-292-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-292-f-2.jpg" width="421" height="197" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">CROQUETTES. (SEE PAGE <a href="#CROQUETTES_292">292</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[293]</a></span></p> + +<h5 class="subrecipe"><a name="ENTERPRISE_CHOPPER_293" id="ENTERPRISE_CHOPPER_293"></a>THE ENTERPRISE CHOPPER</h5> + +<p>This simple machine minces meat very fine, and is useful in making +croquettes, forcemeat for stuffings, etc. Where meat having much fiber +is put in the chopper, it soon becomes clogged. The end piece can then +be taken off, and the fiber clinging to it, which stops the holes, be +removed. In making timbales the meat put through the chopper in this +way, and then pounded, will sometimes do without being passed through a +sieve.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 420px;"> +<a name="illus-292-f-1" id="illus-292-f-1" href="images/illus-292-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-292-f-1.jpg" width="420" height="289" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">ENTERPRISE CHOPPER.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SAUCE_FOR_CROQUETTE_MIXTURE_293" id="SAUCE_FOR_CROQUETTE_MIXTURE_293"></a>SAUCE FOR CROQUETTE MIXTURE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(To this amount of sauce add two cupfuls of meat.)</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 tablespoonful of butter.</li> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls of flour.</li> + <li>1 cupful of milk or cream.</li> + <li>1 egg.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of onion-juice.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>¼ teaspoonful of pepper.</li> + <li>Dash of cayenne.</li> + <li>Dash of nutmeg.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Put the cream or milk in a double boiler and scald it. Rub the butter +and flour together. Take this paste on a spoon and stir it in the +scalding milk until it is dissolved from the spoon, and the sauce has +become thickened and consistent. Add the seasoning; then remove from the +fire and stir in a beaten egg (the egg may be omitted if desired). Place +it again on the fire for a minute to cook the egg, but do not let it +boil, and add two cupfuls of meat minced very fine.</p> + +<p>Pour this mixture on a flat dish, and set it away for two or more hours. +It will then be stiffened and can be easily molded. If a mixture is used +which absorbs the sauce, add more than the quantity given in receipt. +The softer the mixture, the more creamy, and therefore the better will +be the croquettes, and if allowed to stand long enough the molding will +not be difficult.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TO_MOLD_CROQUETTES_293" id="TO_MOLD_CROQUETTES_293"></a>TO MOLD CROQUETTES</h4> + +<p>Take a tablespoonful of the mixture (this will make a croquette of the +right size; large ones are likely to crack open in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[294]</a></span> frying); roll it +lightly between the hands into a ball. Have a plentiful supply of +bread-crumbs spread evenly on a board; roll the ball lightly on the +crumbs into the shape of a cylinder, and flatten each end by dropping it +lightly on the board; put it in the egg (to each egg add one +tablespoonful of water, and beat together), and with a spoon moisten the +croquette completely with the egg; lift it out on a knife-blade, and +again roll lightly in the crumbs. Have every part entirely covered, so +there will be no opening through which the grease may be absorbed. Where +a light yellow color is wanted, use fresh white crumbs grated from the +loaf (or rubbed through a purée sieve) for the outside, and do not use +the yolk of the egg. Coarse fresh crumbs are used for fish croquettes, +which are usually made in the form of chops, or half heart shape. A +small hole is pricked in the pointed end after frying, and a sprig of +parsley inserted. For lobster croquettes a small claw is used instead of +the parsley. Cracker-crumbs are used where a smooth surface is wanted. +Have all the croquettes of perfectly uniform size and shape, and lay +them aside on a dish, not touching one another, for an hour or more +before frying. This will make the crust more firm.</p> + +<p>The white of an egg alone may be used for egging them, but not the yolk +alone. Whip the egg with the water, just enough to break it, as +air-bubbles in the egg will break in frying, and let the grease +penetrate.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TO_FRY_CROQUETTES_294" id="TO_FRY_CROQUETTES_294"></a>TO FRY CROQUETTES</h4> + +<p>Let the fat become smoking hot; then test it with a piece of bread. If +the bread colors while you count forty (twenty seconds), it is right. It +is well to put the frying-pot on the fire an hour before it is needed, +so it will be hot, and ready to be raised quickly to the right degree. +After dipping the frying-basket in the fat to grease it, lay in it four +croquettes so that they do not touch one another, and immerse them in +the fat. Cook only long enough to attain a delicate color. Let them +drain a moment over the hot fat; then lift them from the bas<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[295]</a></span>ket with +the hand (if done quickly the hand will not be burned) and place on a +brown paper on the hot shelf or in the open oven until all are ready. Do +not fry more than four at one time, as more would reduce the heat of the +fat too much. Let the fat become smoking hot before each immersion of +croquettes. Hang the basket on a long iron spoon so the hand will not be +burned by the spattering fat.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MATERIALS_USED_FOR_CROQUETTES_295" id="MATERIALS_USED_FOR_CROQUETTES_295"></a>MATERIALS USED FOR CROQUETTES</h4> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe">CHICKEN CROQUETTES</h5> + +<p>Chop the chicken very fine, using the white meat alone, or the dark meat +alone, or both together. Season with salt, pepper, onion-juice, and +lemon-juice. Chopped mushrooms, sweetbreads, calf’s brains, tongue, ham +or truffles are used with chicken, and a combination of two or more of +them much improves the quality of the croquettes.</p> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe">VEAL CROQUETTES</h5> + +<p>Veal is often mixed with chicken, or is used alone as a substitute for +chicken. Season in same manner and make the same combinations.</p> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe">SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES</h5> + +<p>Cut the boiled sweetbreads into small dice with a silver knife. Mix with +mushrooms, using half the quantity of mushrooms that you have of +sweetbreads. Use two eggs in the sauce.</p> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe">OYSTER CROQUETTES</h5> + +<p>Scald the oysters; cut them into small pieces with a silver-plated +knife.</p> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe">LOBSTER CROQUETTES (see page <a href="#LOBSTER_CHOPS_138">138</a>)</h5> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe">FISH CROQUETTES (see pages <a href="#FISH_CHOPS_121">121</a> and <a href="#SHAD_ROE_CROQUETTES_1_126">126</a>)</h5> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe">MEAT AND BOILED HOMINY CROQUETTES</h5> + +<p>Equal proportions.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[296]</a></span></p> + +<h5 class="subrecipe">MEAT, RICE, AND TOMATO CROQUETTES</h5> + +<p>Equal proportions of meat and boiled rice: moisten with tomato purée.</p> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe">MACARONI CROQUETTES</h5> + +<p>Boil the macaroni in salted water until tender; let it cool; then cut +into pieces one quarter inch long, forming rings. To a cupful of the +rings add one tablespoonful of grated cheese.</p> + +<p>The sauces to serve with croquettes are brown, Béchamel, Poulette, and +Tomato.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TIMBALES_296" id="TIMBALES_296"></a>TIMBALES</h4> + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>General directions.</b></span> Timbales are forms of pastry or of forcemeat filled with +salpicon. They are made in individual, border, or cylinder +molds. The receipts below give the rules for making the +pastry, forcemeat, and salpicon, and the combinations. For +forcemeat, the raw meat is used, and may be used alone or +mixed with panada: in the latter case it is called Quenelle +forcemeat. Cut the meat or fish in pieces (excepting chicken, +which is scraped), and pound it in a mortar to separate the +flesh from the fiber, then press it through a purée sieve. +Do not chop the meat, as the fiber is not then so easily +separated. If the meat pulp is mixed with panada, press it +through the sieve again so the paste will be perfectly smooth +and fine. Truffles are used in decorating the molds and in the +salpicon. The little bits left from the decoration are chopped +and used in the salpicon or in a sauce. +</p></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 416px;"> +<a name="illus-296-f-2" id="illus-296-f-2" href="images/illus-296-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-296-f-2.jpg" width="416" height="195" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">PURÉE SIEVE AND MORTAR.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 419px;"> +<a name="illus-296-f-3" id="illus-296-f-3" href="images/illus-296-f-3-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-296-f-3.jpg" width="419" height="203" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">HINGED MOLD AND INDIVIDUAL TIMBALE MOLDS.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TRUFFLES_296" id="TRUFFLES_296"></a>TRUFFLES</h4> + +<p>Truffles can be bought in tins, and as very little is used at a time +they are not as expensive as at first appears. To preserve truffles left +over in an opened can, drain them from the liquor and roll them in +melted paraffine or in melted suet. With the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[297]</a></span> air-tight covering which +either of these things gives, the truffles can be kept in the +refrigerator for an indefinite time.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CREAM_CHICKEN_FORCEMEAT_297" id="CREAM_CHICKEN_FORCEMEAT_297"></a>CREAM CHICKEN FORCEMEAT</h4> + +<p>Cut the breast from a chicken or turkey, also the white meat from the +wings; remove the skin and fat, and with a knife scrape the meat so as +to free it from the sinews. Place the scraped meat in a mortar and pound +it to a paste; incorporate into it gradually, while pounding, the white +of an egg; this will moisten it a little so it will pass more easily +through the sieve. After it is thoroughly macerated, take a little at a +time and with the pestle or spoon rub it through a sieve; it passes +through better when a little is worked at a time. Put the pulp in a +bowl, season it with salt, pepper, and a dash of nutmeg. Set the bowl on +cracked ice and stir in slowly (as you add oil to Mayonnaise) one or one +and a half cupfuls of thick cream—some mixtures take more cream than +others; stir continually, using a wire whip if convenient. When it is a +consistent paste, try it by dropping a half teaspoonful in hot (not +boiling) water and let it poach; if it is too thick add more cream, if +too thin add a little beaten white of egg. The sample should poach for +ten minutes, and when cut should be smooth and firm, but not tough.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CREAM_FORCEMEAT_No_2_297" id="CREAM_FORCEMEAT_No_2_297"></a>CREAM FORCEMEAT, No. 2.</h4> + +<p>To one half pound of meat pulp add five ounces of butter, one whole egg, +and four yolks, or the whites alone of four eggs if used with white +meat; beat very thoroughly together; pass again through the sieve; place +on ice and beat in slowly one pint of whipped cream—three quarters of a +cupful of cream will make about the right amount after being whipped.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FISH_CREAM_FORCEMEAT_297" id="FISH_CREAM_FORCEMEAT_297"></a>FISH CREAM FORCEMEAT</h4> + +<p>Scrape, pound, and pass through a sieve one pound of firm white fish. +Put the pulp in a bowl, season with salt, pepper and cayenne; whip into +it the whites of two eggs, and add<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[298]</a></span> slowly, beating all the time, about +one and a half cupfuls of cream. Poach a small piece to see if right: if +too thick add more cream, if too thin add more white of egg. A pretty +decoration for fish timbale, especially when made of salmon, is lobster +coral, dried and pounded to powder, and sprinkled on the buttered mold. +Fish timbale is usually made in a solid piece and served as a fish +course. With white fish serve a tomato sauce; with salmon a Poulette or +a cream sauce, or Mayonnaise.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="QUENELLE_FORCEMEAT_298" id="QUENELLE_FORCEMEAT_298"></a>QUENELLE FORCEMEAT</h4> + +<p>To one cupful of meat-pulp, after it is rubbed through the sieve, add +one half cupful of panada, one quarter cupful of butter, yolks of three +eggs, salt, pepper, and dash of nutmeg. Stir well together and pass +again through the sieve. Place on ice and add slowly one cupful of +cream. Try by poaching a small piece to see if it is of the right +consistency. A good white sauce or tomato purée may be substituted for +the cream in some cases. This forcemeat is used the same as cream +forcemeat.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BREAD_PANADA_298" id="BREAD_PANADA_298"></a>BREAD PANADA</h4> + +<p>Soak the crumb of bread; express the water and place the bread in a +saucepan on the fire. Stir it to a paste with milk or stock, and +continue to stir until it leaves the sides of the pan.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FLOUR_PANADA_298" id="FLOUR_PANADA_298"></a>FLOUR PANADA</h4> + +<p>Put a little water, milk or stock in a saucepan; add a little butter and +salt, and stir in as much flour as will absorb the liquid. Stir +constantly until it leaves the sides of the pan.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TO_MOLD_AND_COOK_TIMBALES_298" id="TO_MOLD_AND_COOK_TIMBALES_298"></a>TO MOLD AND COOK TIMBALES</h4> + +<p>Rub the mold well with butter; ornament it with truffle, tongue, ham, or +hard-boiled egg. Cut the truffle, or other article used for the +decoration, in very thin slices and stamp it into fancy shapes with a +cutter, or cut it with a knife. Arrange the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[299]</a></span> pieces in some design on +the mold; they will stay in place if the mold is well buttered. Put in +the forcemeat carefully with a knife, press it well against the sides to +force out any air-bubbles, and have a care not to displace the +decoration. If the timbale is to be filled with salpicon, make a layer +of the forcemeat from a quarter to three quarters of an inch thick, +according to the size of mold, using enough to give stability to the +form when unmolded; make it a little thicker at the base than at the top +and leave a smooth surface inside; fill it with the salpicon and cover +the top with forcemeat, pressing from the sides towards the center; draw +the knife across the top so it will be smooth and even, and stand +straight and firm when unmolded. Stand the mold or molds in a pan of +water, covering them one half or a little more. Cover them with a +greased paper and let them poach in a slow oven ten to fifteen minutes +for small, and twenty minutes for large molds. If the center feels firm +to the touch they are done. The water must not be allowed to boil; slow +cooking is necessary to have them tender. Let the molds stand a minute +in the water, then invert on a cloth to let the moisture drain off, and +unmold them on the dish on which they are to be served.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 269px;"> +<a name="illus-300-f-2" id="illus-300-f-2" href="images/illus-300-f-2-full.png"><img src="images/illus-300-f-2.png" width="269" height="120" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">INDIVIDUAL TIMBALES.<br /> + +TIMBALES OF ANY FORCEMEAT; DECORATION OF TRUFFLES.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SALPICON_299" id="SALPICON_299"></a>SALPICON</h4> + +<p>Cooked veal, chicken, game, sweetbreads, calf’s brains, livers, fish, +oysters, lobster, mushrooms, truffles, tongue, etc., when cut into dice +and mixed with a rich sauce is called salpicon. It is used for filling +timbales, vol-au-vent, patties, croustades, etc. It may also be served +in paper boxes, or shells, or fontage cups. It may be made of one kind +of meat, but is usually a mixture of two or more, with mushrooms and +truffles. The meats are cut into small dice and warmed with a sauce +which goes well with the meats used. The sauce must be reduced until +quite thick, and enough of it used to make the mixture very creamy. For +dark meat use an Espagnole, brown or mushroom sauce; for white meat, +Béchamel, Allemande or Poulette sauce.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 195px;"> +<a name="illus-300-f-1" id="illus-300-f-1" href="images/illus-300-f-1-full.png"><img src="images/illus-300-f-1.png" width="195" height="198" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">CHICKEN TIMBALE—FILLING OF SALPICON; DECORATION OF +TRUFFLES.</span> +</div> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[300]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FONTAGE_CUPS_300" id="FONTAGE_CUPS_300"></a>FONTAGE CUPS</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(USED FOR OYSTER-CRABS, SALPICON, CREAMED SWEETBREADS, ETC.)</p> + +<p>Make a batter of one half cupful of flour, yolk of one egg, one quarter +teaspoonful of salt, one tablespoonful of salad oil, and enough milk or +water to make the batter thin. Let it stand for an hour or two. Beat it +well together, and have the batter very smooth; strain it if there are +any lumps. Have a pot of hot fat; place the fontage iron in the fat +until it is thoroughly hot, then dip it in the batter, and hold it there +a moment until a coating of batter has adhered; place it again in the +hot fat until the cup is cooked a delicate color, and can be detached +from the iron. Repeat the operation until all are made, and keep them in +a warm dry place until used. This amount of batter will make twelve +cups.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 419px;"> +<a name="illus-296-f-1" id="illus-296-f-1" href="images/illus-296-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-296-f-1.jpg" width="419" height="202" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">FONTAGE IRON AND CUPS. (SEE PAGE <a href="#FONTAGE_CUPS_300">300</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PAIN_DE_VOLAILLE_300" id="PAIN_DE_VOLAILLE_300"></a>PAIN DE VOLAILLE</h4> + +<p>Make a chicken cream forcemeat (see page <a href="#CREAM_CHICKEN_FORCEMEAT_297">297</a>). Butter individual timbale +molds, decorate them with truffles, fill with forcemeat, and poach ten +to fifteen minutes in slow oven. Serve with an Allemande sauce.</p> + +<p>Or, line the molds with forcemeat; fill them with salpicon made of the +dark meat of the chicken and mushrooms; mix with Espagnole or a good +brown sauce; cover the top well with forcemeat, and poach as directed.</p> + +<p>Or, use a charlotte russe mold; line it a half inch thick with +forcemeat, and use the same salpicon, adding small egg balls or +quenelles, a few pieces of tongue, and a truffle chopped very fine.</p> + +<p>Or, use a border mold for the forcemeat, and fill the center of the +ring, when unmolded, with the salpicon.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="QUENELLES_300" id="QUENELLES_300"></a>QUENELLES</h4> + +<p>These are quenelle forcemeat formed into small balls, the balls rolled +in flour and poached, then used in salpicon; or, with two tablespoons, +the forcemeat may be molded into egg-shaped pieces, poached in hot +salted (not boiling) water, and ranged on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[301]</a></span> a socle; or they may be +placed on a dish in a circle. The two latter forms of quenelles are +served with a sauce as an entrée. Fish quenelles with tomato sauce make +a very good dish. Large quenelles for decorating dishes may be made by +molding the forcemeat into fancy shapes with a knife on buttered white +paper (the paper will become detached while they are poaching). The +quenelles may be ornamented with truffles or tongue, using white of egg +to make the decoration adhere. Use salted water for poaching them, and +do not let it boil.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PALMETTES_301" id="PALMETTES_301"></a>PALMETTES</h4> + +<p>Press forcemeat into rings or cutlet molds; partly poach them. Unmold, +roll in egg and crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Serve with a sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CELESTINES_A_LA_MAINTENON_301" id="CELESTINES_A_LA_MAINTENON_301"></a>CELESTINES À LA MAINTENON</h4> + +<p>Take some quenelle forcemeat (see page <a href="#QUENELLE_FORCEMEAT_298">298</a>). Add to it a little juice +from a can of truffles, one truffle chopped fine, two tablespoonfuls of +mushrooms chopped fine, and a few bits of ham, or tongue. Mix well +together, and stir in enough cream to make it quite soft. Butter some +cutlet molds, or some rings. Fill them with the mixture; smooth them +with a knife, and place them on the bottom of a large saucepan. Pour +enough boiling water to cover them carefully on the sides of the pan, so +it will go into the pan without defacing the forcemeat; let them poach +for five minutes without the water boiling. The cutlets will leave the +molds, and rise to the top. Lift them out with a skimmer, and place on +an inverted pan to cool. When perfectly cold, dry them lightly with a +napkin, and cover each one with Villeroi sauce (see page <a href="#VILLEROI_280">280</a>). Set aside +to let the sauce harden. Sprinkle with bread-crumbs; moisten with egg +and cover with fresh crumbs grated from the leaf. Use a broad knife to +handle them with when crumbing. Fry in hot fat, like croquettes, to an +amber color. Serve with Béchamel or Poulette sauce.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[302]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BOUDINS_ROUENNAIS_302" id="BOUDINS_ROUENNAIS_302"></a>BOUDINS ROUENNAIS</h4> + +<p>Line well-buttered individual molds with a cream forcemeat made of veal +or chicken; fill the center with a forcemeat made of duck or any game. +Cover the top with a white forcemeat, and smooth it off even with the +mold. Poach them for ten minutes. Unmold, and let them cool; then cover +with egg and fresh bread-crumbs, and fry in hot fat to an amber color. +Serve with them an Espagnole or a brown sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MACARONI_TIMBALE_302" id="MACARONI_TIMBALE_302"></a>MACARONI TIMBALE</h4> + +<p>Cook until tender in salted water long pieces of spaghetti, or fine +macaroni. Put it into the water slowly, and it can then be turned so it +will not break. Lay the pieces straight on a napkin to cool. Butter well +a dome-shaped mold. Wind the spaghetti around the mold, holding it in +place, as you proceed, with a layer of forcemeat. Fill the center with +boiled macaroni and cheese, mixed with a well-reduced Béchamel sauce; or +fill the timbale with a salpicon of sweetbreads and mushrooms. Make the +layer of forcemeat thick enough to give the timbale stability. Cover it +with a greased paper, stand it in a pan of hot water, and poach in a +slow oven for thirty minutes. This timbale may also be made in +individual molds.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 413px;"> +<a name="illus-304-f-1" id="illus-304-f-1" href="images/illus-304-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-304-f-1.jpg" width="413" height="194" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">MACARONI TIMBALE. (SEE PAGE <a href="#MACARONI_TIMBALE_302">302</a>.)</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 420px;"> +<a name="illus-304-f-2" id="illus-304-f-2" href="images/illus-304-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-304-f-2.jpg" width="420" height="196" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">SPAGHETTI TIMBALES. (SEE PAGE <a href="#MACARONI_TIMBALE_302">302</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="HONEYCOMB_TIMBALE_302" id="HONEYCOMB_TIMBALE_302"></a>HONEYCOMB TIMBALE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(A VERY SIMPLE LUNCHEON DISH)</p> + +<p>Boil in salted water large-sized macaroni. When cold cut it into pieces +one quarter of an inch long, making rings. Butter a plain dome-shaped +mold, and cover it with the rings. Fill the mold with minced uncooked +chicken, turkey, or veal, mixed with cream sauce. Add three or four eggs +to the creamed mince just before putting it into the mold. Unless the +eggs are added, it will not have stiffness enough to hold in shape. +Cover the mold with a greased paper. Place it in a pan of hot water, and +poach in a slow oven for thirty minutes.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">[303]</a></span>This timbale may also be made of any cooked meat as follows: Put the +meat through an “Enterprise” chopper. Make a sauce, using two +tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour, a cupful of milk, and a cupful +of stock. After the liquid is added to the roux put in a slice of onion +and two dried mushrooms, one teaspoonful of salt, and one quarter +teaspoonful pepper. Let it cook until a little thickened. Add half the +strained sauce to the minced meat. Stir it over the fire until the meat +is heated; remove from the fire, add two beaten eggs, and turn it into a +a quart timbale mold, which is lined with macaroni in any of the forms +given in illustrations. Cover the mold with a greased paper. Place it in +a pan of hot water, and poach for twenty minutes. Serve the rest of the +sauce with the cooked timbale.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 415px;"> +<a name="illus-304-f-3" id="illus-304-f-3" href="images/illus-304-f-3-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-304-f-3.jpg" width="415" height="187" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">HONEYCOMB TIMBALE. (SEE PAGE <a href="#HONEYCOMB_TIMBALE_302">302</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SIMPLE_TIMBALE_OF_HALIBUT_303" id="SIMPLE_TIMBALE_OF_HALIBUT_303"></a>A SIMPLE TIMBALE OF HALIBUT</h4> + +<p>Take a half pound of uncooked halibut. Cut it into fine pieces, pound it +in a mortar, and pass it through a sieve. Mix a cupful of white +bread-crumbs with a half cupful of milk, and stir until it makes a +smooth paste; remove it from the fire, add the fish pulp, a half +teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of paprica. Then beat in lightly, a +little at a time, the whipped whites of five eggs. Fill buttered timbale +molds with the mixture, and place them in a pan of hot water in a +moderate oven for twenty minutes. This will fill a quart mold, or eight +individual molds. Serve with a white or with a tomato sauce.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 199px;"> +<a name="illus-300-f-3" id="illus-300-f-3" href="images/illus-300-f-3-full.png"><img src="images/illus-300-f-3.png" width="199" height="177" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">FISH TIMBALE DECORATED WITH SLICES OF CUCUMBER PICKLE.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PASTRY_TIMBALE_303" id="PASTRY_TIMBALE_303"></a>PASTRY TIMBALE</h4> + +<p>Make a paste, using to one pound of flour three quarters of a pound of +butter, four yolks, one half teaspoonful of salt, and one and a half +cups of water. Work it well, roll it one quarter of an inch thick, +cover, and set it aside for one hour. Butter a timbale-mold, and line it +with the paste. If ornamentation is wanted, cut some noodle paste into +fancy forms. Arrange the pieces in some design on the bottom and sides +of the mold, and brush them with a little water before putting in the +paste. With<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[304]</a></span> a cutter or knife stamp out a circle in the paste on the +bottom of the mold, but do not remove it. Then with a buttered paper +cover the whole inside surface of the paste. Fill the center with flour. +Cover the top with buttered paper, buttered side up; then a layer of +paste, and press it to the paste of the sides. Set it aside for half an +hour. Bake it in a hot oven for fifty minutes. Unmold, take off the +circle which was cut in the paste; remove the paper and flour. Brush the +timbale all over, inside and out, with yolk of egg, and place it in the +oven to brown. Fill it with salpicon.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="POTATO_AND_FISH_TIMBALE_304" id="POTATO_AND_FISH_TIMBALE_304"></a>POTATO AND FISH TIMBALE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(FOR LUNCHEON OR BREAKFAST)</p> + +<p>Butter a plain mold. Sprinkle it with white bread-crumbs. Fill it with +mashed potato which has been seasoned and mixed with two or more egg +yolks and some grated cheese. Bake it for forty minutes in a moderate +oven. With a pointed knife cut around the top one and a half inches from +the edges; lift off the piece, and with a spoon scoop out the potato, +leaving a lining one and a half inches thick. Brush the inside with egg, +and place it again in the oven to dry and brown. Fill the center with +creamed fish; replace the top piece, and fill the cut with potato so as +to confine the fish. Place a dish over the top, invert the mold, and let +it stand a few minutes. It will then come out of the mold. Serve with a +white sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="VOL_AU_VENT_304" id="VOL_AU_VENT_304"></a>VOL AU VENT</h4> + +<p>Prepare a puff paste (see page <a href="#RECEIPT_FOR_PUFF-PASTE_458">458</a>). Roll it one and a half inches +thick. Cut a circle six to six and a half inches in diameter, using as +guide a pie-tin or cardboard, if a regular cutter is not at hand. Place +it with care on a baking-tin, and cut a smaller circle around the top, +one and a half inches from the edge, and two thirds through the paste. +Paint over the top with yolk of egg, and bake it in a hot oven for +thirty minutes. Do not open the oven door for the first fifteen minutes. +When<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[305]</a></span> baked, lift off the inside circle. Cut out the uncooked paste, +paint it over with white of egg, and place it again in the oven to +brown. Keep the crust hot until ready to serve. Then fill with salpicon, +and replace the cover, or small circle of paste.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PATTIES_305" id="PATTIES_305"></a>PATTIES</h4> + +<p>Prepare patty shells as directed in puff paste receipt (page <a href="#PATE_SHELLS_460">460</a>). Fill +them with oysters (see page <a href="#OYSTER_FILLING_FOR_PATTIES_134">134</a>), with lobster (see page <a href="#SALPICON_OF_LOBSTER_140">140</a>), or with +any salpicon.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RISSOLES_305" id="RISSOLES_305"></a>RISSOLES</h4> + +<p>Roll puff paste one eighth of an inch thick. Place on it at intervals of +three inches from the edge and five inches apart, a teaspoonful of +salpicon, or of creamed minced meat. Moisten with a wet brush the paste, +and fold it over the balls of meat. With the finger press the paste +together lightly around the meat, inclosing it like a small pie. Then +with a patty or biscuit-cutter stamp out the rissoles in shape of +half-circles, the ball of meat being on the straight side, and a border +of paste an inch or more wide on the rounded side. Egg and bread-crumb +them or not, and fry in hot fat. Serve on a folded napkin.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TO_PREPARE_SWEETBREADS_305" id="TO_PREPARE_SWEETBREADS_305"></a>TO PREPARE SWEETBREADS</h4> + +<p>Soak the sweetbreads in cold water for an hour or more. Change the water +several times, so that all the blood will be extracted, and leave the +sweetbreads very white. Put them on the fire in cold water, and simmer +(not boil) for twenty minutes. Then immerse them again in cold water. +This is to parboil and blanch them. Remove all the pipes, strings, and +fibers it is possible to do without breaking the sweetbreads to pieces. +When half cold tie each one in a piece of cheese-cloth, drawing it +tightly into an oval form, and place them under a light weight until +cold. They will then be smooth and a uniform shape, and may be larded +with fine lardoons if desired. Use a silver knife for cutting +sweetbreads.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[306]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BAKED_SWEETBREADS_306" id="BAKED_SWEETBREADS_306"></a>BAKED SWEETBREADS</h4> + +<p>Take parboiled larded sweetbreads, and place them on slices of salt pork +in a baking-pan. Add enough stock to cover well the pan. Cook them in a +hot oven for twenty minutes, basting frequently. Serve with a brown or +with a mushroom sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BRAISED_SWEETBREADS_306" id="BRAISED_SWEETBREADS_306"></a>BRAISED SWEETBREADS</h4> + +<p>Place in a baking-pan a bed of vegetables cut in small dice, and a few +pieces of salt pork. Lay parboiled sweetbreads on it. Add enough water +or stock to cover the vegetables. Close the pan tight, and cook for +forty to forty-five minutes. Uncover the pan the last fifteen minutes to +let the sweetbreads brown. Paint them with glaze. Strain the liquor from +the pan; thicken it with a brown roux, and serve it on the dish under +the sweetbreads.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SAUTED_SWEETBREADS_306" id="SAUTED_SWEETBREADS_306"></a>SAUTÉD SWEETBREADS</h4> + +<p>Cut the parboiled sweetbreads in slices and sauté them in butter; serve +with green peas.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRIED_SWEETBREADS_306" id="FRIED_SWEETBREADS_306"></a>FRIED SWEETBREADS</h4> + +<p>Roll the sweetbreads (either whole or cut in slices) in egg and crumbs; +let them stand for a time, then fry in hot fat; dress them on a folded +napkin and serve with them a Béchamel sauce. They may also be dipped in +fritter batter and fried.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SWEETBREADS_A_LA_POULETTE_306" id="SWEETBREADS_A_LA_POULETTE_306"></a>SWEETBREADS À LA POULETTE</h4> + +<p>Simmer the sweetbreads for thirty or forty minutes; blanch them, then +cut or break them in pieces and place them on a dish. Pour over them a +Béchamel or a Poulette sauce. Mushrooms and chopped truffles may be +added if desired.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHAUDFROID_OF_SWEETBREADS_306" id="CHAUDFROID_OF_SWEETBREADS_306"></a>CHAUDFROID OF SWEETBREADS</h4> + +<p>Simmer the sweetbreads until cooked; blanch and tie them in cloth as +directed above, or place them in muffin-rings under<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">[307]</a></span> pressure until +cold; cover them with a Chaudfroid sauce (see page <a href="#CHAUDFROID_SAUCE_281">281</a>). Place fancy +bits of truffle on the top lightly, and when the sauce has set, paint it +over with liquid aspic. Arrange them on a socle or on a mound of salad, +and serve with them a Mayonnaise sauce and lettuce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CALFS_BRAINS_307" id="CALFS_BRAINS_307"></a>CALF’S BRAINS</h4> + +<p>Soak the brains for an hour in cold water; then simmer in water +containing a tablespoonful of vinegar for twenty minutes; an onion, +thyme, bay-leaf, salt and peppercorns in the water also will improve the +flavor of the brains; place again in cold water to blanch; remove the +skin and fibres, and cook by any of the receipts given for sweetbreads. +The boiled brains may also be served with any of the following sauces +poured over them: a plain white sauce; a white sauce with chopped +mushrooms; a white sauce seasoned with mashed yolks of hard-boiled eggs, +a little mustard, tarragon vinegar and chopped parsley, and a +tablespoonful of chopped pickle added just before serving; a Vinaigrette +sauce; a Hollandaise sauce; a tomato sauce; or a sauce made of browned +butter and a dash of vinegar.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MARINADE_OF_BRAINS_307" id="MARINADE_OF_BRAINS_307"></a>MARINADE OF BRAINS</h4> + +<p>Boil the brains; remove the skin and veins; cut them into pieces the +size of half an egg; let them stand an hour in a marinade of oil, +vinegar, onion, pepper and salt; then wipe and dip them into fritter +batter and fry in hot fat. Arrange them on a napkin and serve with +tomato sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CALFS_HEAD_A_LA_VINAIGRETTE_307" id="CALFS_HEAD_A_LA_VINAIGRETTE_307"></a>CALF’S HEAD À LA VINAIGRETTE</h4> + +<p>Place pieces of hot boiled calf’s head in the center of a dish; split +the tongue in two and lay it across two sides of the dish, and the +brains on the opposite sides; garnish with parsley and serve with a +Vinaigrette sauce, or with a Piquante sauce.</p> + +<p><b>Vinaigrette Sauce</b> (<span class="smcap">Cold</span>): Three tablespoonfuls of oil, one tablespoonful +of vinegar, one teaspoonful each of grated onion, chopped parsley, and +capers, one saltspoonful each of salt and pepper.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[308]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FALSE_TERRAPIN_308" id="FALSE_TERRAPIN_308"></a>FALSE TERRAPIN</h4> + +<p>Cut boiled calf’s head (see page <a href="#BOILED_CALFS_HEAD_175">175</a>) into pieces one inch square; break +into pieces the boiled brains. Make a brown roux; add to it water in +which the calf’s head was boiled, in the same proportion as for white +sauce; season with salt, pepper, and cayenne, and add a cupful of cream; +then put in the pieces of meat, three or four chopped hard-boiled eggs, +a few small egg balls, and a glass of sherry; serve very hot; there +should be a half more sauce than meat.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CALFS_HEAD_A_LA_POULETTE_308" id="CALFS_HEAD_A_LA_POULETTE_308"></a>CALF’S HEAD À LA POULETTE</h4> + +<p>Cut boiled calf’s head into pieces one inch square; heat them in hot +water; drain and pile them in the center of a hot dish; sprinkle over +them a few small egg balls, and pour over the whole a Poulette sauce, +using for the sauce water in which the calf’s head was boiled in the +place of chicken stock.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="OYSTER_CASES_308" id="OYSTER_CASES_308"></a>OYSTER CASES</h4> + +<p>Line buttered paper cases, or china individual cups, with a layer of +fish quenelle forcemeat (page <a href="#QUENELLE_FORCEMEAT_298">298</a>), or with the fish preparation given +in receipt for fish pudding (page <a href="#FISH_PUDDING_123">123</a>); scald some oysters in their own +liquor until the gills curl; cut each oyster into four pieces and fill +the center of the cup with them; pour over them a tablespoonful of +Béchamel sauce, made with oyster-liquor in place of stock; cover the top +with forcemeat, brush it over with butter and bake in a moderate oven +for fifteen minutes.</p> + +<p>Cases of other combinations may be made in the same way; using mashed +potato for the lining and any creamed meat for filling; or use hominy or +rice with chicken, mushrooms, etc.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="LIVER_LOAF_308" id="LIVER_LOAF_308"></a>LIVER LOAF, OR FALSE <a name="corr23" id="corr23"></a>PÂTÉ DE FOIE GRAS</h4> + +<p>Cut a calf’s liver in pieces; pound it in a mortar and press it through +a sieve; add to one cupful of liver pulp one quarter cupful of flour +panada, one teaspoonful each of butter and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">[309]</a></span> salt; one half teaspoonful +of pepper; dash each of cayenne and of nutmeg and allspice, and two +eggs. Mix well together and pass it again through the sieve. Put the +mixture into a well-buttered pint mold; place it in a pan of hot water +in the oven for forty-five minutes or more. An ice-cream brick-mold +makes a loaf of convenient shape. It may be served hot with a brown +sauce; but is better cold with salad, or used like pâté de foie gras. A +loaf of any game may be made in the same way. The loaf may be made very +ornamental by decorating it with pieces of truffle, ham, and white of +hard-boiled eggs cut into diamond shapes and fitted together to look +like blocks. To arrange this decoration use two molds of the same size; +butter one of them and apply carefully the decoration; line the other +with thin slices of larding pork and cook the liver or game mixture in +it; when it is cold remove the pork, and this will leave it small enough +to fit into the decorated mold. Fill the space between them with aspic +jelly and let it become well set before unmolding the form.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHICKEN_LIVERS_309" id="CHICKEN_LIVERS_309"></a>CHICKEN LIVERS</h4> + +<p>Cut the gall carefully off the livers; dry them with a cloth and cut +them in two or more pieces. Place them in a frying-pan with a +tablespoonful of butter, and sauté until cooked, or about five minutes. +Turn them often, so they will not burn, and dredge them with a little +flour; add one cupful of Espagnole, or of brown sauce, and one half +cupful of Madeira; season with salt and pepper and let simmer slowly for +ten minutes. If the color is not dark enough, add a few drops of caramel +or of kitchen bouquet; serve with croûtons around the dish, or in a +croustade, or in fontage cups.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STUFFED_MUSHROOMS_309" id="STUFFED_MUSHROOMS_309"></a>STUFFED MUSHROOMS</h4> + +<p>Take off the stalks from one pound of fresh mushrooms, peel the cups, +using a silver knife, and drop them into cold water to keep them white +(if exposed to the air they discolor). If they have to stand for some +time put a little lemon-juice in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">[310]</a></span> the water; scrape the stalks, chop +them and put them into a saucepan with one tablespoonful of butter and +one half onion sliced; cook slowly for ten minutes, then add one +tablespoonful of flour and cook that five minutes; add one cupful of +stock and one half cupful of bread crumbs; season with salt, pepper, and +a dash of cayenne. Fill the cups of the mushrooms with this mixture; +sprinkle with crumbs and place them on circles of toasted bread one +quarter of an inch thick and the size of the mushroom. Bake in moderate +oven for fifteen minutes.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHICKEN_PUREE_310" id="CHICKEN_PUREE_310"></a>CHICKEN PURÉE</h4> + +<p>Chop cooked chicken very fine; pound it to as much of a paste as +possible; season with salt and pepper; mix it with half its quantity of +Chaudfroid sauce (see page <a href="#CHAUDFROID_SAUCE_281">281</a>). Coat a mold with jelly (see page <a href="#TO_MOLD_JELLY_323">323</a>), +and fill it with the mixture, which must be cold and beginning to set; +when it has hardened, turn it onto a dish; garnish with lettuce and +serve with it a Mayonnaise or a Béarnaise sauce. Game may be used in the +same way. Ornamented individual timbale cups may also be used for +molding the purée.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="OYSTER-CRABS_310" id="OYSTER-CRABS_310"></a>OYSTER-CRABS</h4> + +<p>Put into a saucepan two tablespoonfuls of butter and a gill of water, +one teaspoonful of lemon-juice, a little salt and white pepper. When the +liquid is warm, put a few of the crabs in at a time and cook until they +begin to whiten, then skim them out and keep them in a warm place until +all are cooked. The liquid must only simmer; if it is too hot the crabs +will break open. The crabs should be just moistened with the sauce in +which they are cooked. Serve in croustades, or in fontage cups (see page +<a href="#FONTAGE_CUPS_300">300</a>).</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ENTREE_OF_OYSTER-CRABS_310" id="ENTREE_OF_OYSTER-CRABS_310"></a>ENTRÉE OF OYSTER-CRABS</h4> + +<p>Use for this entrée individual shirred-egg dishes. Cut slices of bread +one inch thick; with a biscuit-cutter stamp it into circles one inch +smaller than the egg dish, and with a smaller cutter stamp out the +center, making rings of the bread one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">[311]</a></span> inch thick, one inch wide, and +one inch smaller than the egg dishes. Place the bread rings in the +dishes and moisten them with cream; fill the space outside the rings +with oyster-crabs cooked as directed above; spread one layer of crabs in +the center of each ring and on them break an egg. Cover the whole with +Béchamel sauce and sprinkle the top with grated Parmesan cheese. Place +this in a hot oven just long enough to set the egg.</p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter">TERRAPIN, FROGS’ LEGS</h3> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TERRAPIN_311" id="TERRAPIN_311"></a>TERRAPIN</h4> + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Counts.</b></span> <span class="smcap">Terrapin</span> measuring six inches or more across the bottom +shell are called “counts.” The largest do not exceed ten +inches; the average size is seven inches, and weight three +to five pounds. The counts vary in price from seventeen to +eighty dollars a dozen, according to size and weight.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Diamond backs.</b></span> The terrapin which are most esteemed, and which command the +highest price, are the “Diamond Back,” from the Chesapeake +Bay. Probably it is the wild celery of this region which gives +the especially prized flavor to the terrapin as well as to the +Canvasback ducks taken there. Good terrapin, however, are +taken in Long Island waters and all along the sea-coast.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Season.</b></span> Terrapin burrow in the mud as soon as cold weather approaches +and remain there until May, during which time they grow fat. +They are caught during their season of hibernation, and are +kept in cool, dark places packed in sea grass until wanted; +the season for eating them being from December to April. +Terrapin taken during the summer are rank in taste and unfit +for food, and are confined in pens and fed on celery.</p> + +<p>The female terrapin is the most prized on account of its +eggs, terrapin-eggs, as served in the stew, being considered +a great delicacy.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">[312]</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Cooking.</b></span> The Maryland style of cooking terrapin is one of the most +esteemed. A simple way is that of the Southern negro, who +places the “bird,” as he calls it, over hot coals or in the +oven until cooked, when the under shell comes off, and, +removing only the gall, he eats the whole of the contents from +the inverted upper shell, seasoning with butter, pepper, and +salt. Before hibernating, the terrapin empties the stomach and +is consequently clean, but a fastidious taste prefers to have +the terrapin thoroughly washed, and the entrails and lights as +well as the gall-sack removed.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>The gall.</b></span> It is of the greatest importance that the gall should be +very carefully removed, for, if the sack be punctured or in +any way injured, so that the liquid touches the liver or +meat, its disagreeable bitter taste will infect the entire +dish.</p></div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TO_PREPARE_TERRAPIN_312" id="TO_PREPARE_TERRAPIN_312"></a>TO PREPARE TERRAPIN</h4> + +<p>Drop the live terrapin into hot water, and let it remain until the skin +can be removed from the head and feet. Then remove, wash in several +changes of water, take off the skin from the head and feet by rubbing it +with a cloth, and return it to fresh scalding water to cook until +tender. This is shown by pressing the feet between the fingers. They +should be done in forty-five minutes to an hour. If a longer time is +required, the terrapin is probably not a good one, and the meat will be +stringy. Remove as soon as tender. When cold, cut off the nails, remove +the shells, take out very carefully the gall-sack from the liver, the +entrails, lights, heart, head, tail and white muscles. Separate the +pieces at the joints, divide the meat into pieces an inch and a half +long, and do not break the bones. Place the meat, cut into pieces, the +terrapin eggs and the liver in a pan, cover with water, and boil again +until the meat is ready to drop from the bones.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">[313]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STEWED_TERRAPIN_313" id="STEWED_TERRAPIN_313"></a>STEWED TERRAPIN, MARYLAND STYLE</h4> + +<p>Mash the yolks of eight hard-boiled eggs and mix them with two +tablespoonfuls of best butter, rubbing them to a smooth paste. Put a +pint of cream in a double boiler; when it is scalded, stir in the egg +and butter until smooth; season with salt, white and cayenne pepper, a +dash of nutmeg and allspice. Add a quart of terrapin prepared as +directed above, and simmer for ten minutes, or until the terrapin is +well heated. Just at the moment of serving add two tablespoonfuls of +sherry or madeira; serve very hot. Terrapin is often served in +individual metal cups made for the purpose, so as to insure its being +hot; but with care to have all the dishes hot, the stew need not be +allowed to get cold when served in ordinary deep plates.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TERRAPIN_A_LA_NEWBURG_313" id="TERRAPIN_A_LA_NEWBURG_313"></a>TERRAPIN À LA NEWBURG</h4> + +<p>Put in a saucepan one quart of terrapin (prepared as directed, page +<a href="#TO_PREPARE_TERRAPIN_312">312</a>), a half pint of cream, and a tablespoonful of best butter. Let it +cook a few minutes; then draw it aside, and add the yolks of five eggs +beaten with a half pint of cream. Stir until the eggs are thickened; but +do not let it boil, or it will curdle. Season with salt, white pepper +and paprica. At the moment of serving, add two tablespoonfuls of sherry. +Like all Newburg dishes this must be prepared only just in time to +serve, or it will curdle.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRIED_FROGS_LEGS_313" id="FRIED_FROGS_LEGS_313"></a>FRIED FROGS’ LEGS</h4> + +<p>Dip the skinned frogs’ legs in milk; sprinkle with salt and pepper, and +roll them in flour. Immerse in smoking hot fat until cooked to a +delicate color. Serve on a napkin.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FROGS_LEGS_A_LA_POULETTE_313" id="FROGS_LEGS_A_LA_POULETTE_313"></a>FROGS’ LEGS À LA POULETTE</h4> + +<p>Sauté the skinned frogs’ legs in butter; cook some fresh mushrooms in +the pan at the same time if convenient. Place on a hot dish with the +mushrooms, and pour over them a Poulette sauce (see page <a href="#POULETTE_SAUCE_280">280</a>).</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">[314]</a></span></p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="MUSHROOMS_314" id="MUSHROOMS_314"></a>MUSHROOMS</h3> + +<p class="subtitle">(SEE ALSO PAGE <a href="#Mushrooms_45">45</a>)</p> + + +<div class="explanations"><p><span class="smcap">When</span> one has learned to distinguish a few varieties of the +edible fungi, a delicious acquisition to the menu will be +enjoyed.</p> + +<p>The author will not assume the responsibility of instructing how +to distinguish the esculent mushrooms. There are books and +colored charts which give explicit and reliable descriptions, +and with these one can easily learn to know a few of them. +Accidents are usually the result of carelessness or recklessness, +many of the poisonous mushrooms being so attractive in appearance +as to invite favor.</p> + +<p>Mushroom hunting is akin in pleasure to botanizing, geologizing, +or the gathering of any natural history specimens. It is not +always easy to reject the many unfamiliar kinds.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>How to gather.</b></span> In gathering mushrooms they should be cut, not pulled, and +laid in the basket with the gills up, so the spores will not +be lost. If the stem is perforated with fine holes it means +that worms have bored it, and it should be rejected.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>The three most common varieties.</b></span> The most common varieties are the Agaracini—those having gills; +the Boleti—those having pores; and puff-balls (Lycoperdaceæ). +All the puff-balls are edible, and those of the Boleti which +have no tinge of red on the pore surface; but especial care +must be used with the Agaracini, for it is said that all +deaths from mushroom-poisoning have come from the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">[315]</a></span>Amanita, +which is a genus of the gilled species, and is very common +and abundant.</p> + +<p>The safeguard to other species of poison varieties is their +bitter and acrid taste. <span class="sidenote"><b>The Amanita.</b></span> This warning the poisonous Agaric +does not give, but it has the distinguishing feature of a +cup or volva at the base of the stern. This cup is some +times below the ground, and should be carefully sought; and +where any doubt is felt, the specimen should be rejected. +<span class="sidenote"><b>Antidote to poison.</b></span> The antidote to this poison, as given by Mr. Gibson, is one +sixtieth grain doses of atropine in hypodermic injections.</p> + +<p>Authorities on mushrooms advise the amateur to first +acquaint himself with the Amanita family.</p> + +<p>“Dr. W. A. Curtis found in North Carolina thirty-eight +edible species of Agaricus, eleven of Boletus, nine of +Polyporus, seven of Hydnum, and thirteen of Clavaria.”</p> + +<p>The popular tests of the cap peeling, or the mushroom +blackening a silver spoon when cooking, are worthless.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Freshness.</b></span> Mushrooms are very short-lived, and are quickly attacked by +insects and worms, and so rendered unfit for use. They also +decay quickly, and should be rejected if not entirely sound. +Many cases of illness are the result of this unfit condition. +The same would be the case if unwholesome meat were eaten, but +good meat is not condemned on that account. <span class="sidenote"><b>Nourishment in.</b></span> Mushrooms contain +the same nutritive value as meat, and rank second to it in +nitrogenous elements. They vary in flavor and in delicacy as +much as vegetables. +</p></div> + + + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">[316]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COOKING_MUSHROOMS_316" id="COOKING_MUSHROOMS_316"></a>COOKING MUSHROOMS</h4> + +<p>The simplest way of cooking mushrooms is usually the best, and this may +be broiling, sautéing in butter, or stewing in a little cream sauce. +These simple ways may be varied by seasoning with sherry, Madeira, or +lemon-juice. Any meat stock may be used to stew them in, but many of the +mushrooms are very juicy, and their flavor must not be lost by diluting +them with too much liquor. They may be cut in pieces when used for +sauces. When dried and powdered they make an <a name="corr24" id="corr24"></a>excellent seasoning for +sauces. Dried cèpes may be bought at grocers', and are very useful to +stew in sauces.</p> + +<p>It is better to cook mushrooms as soon as they are peeled, and to rinse +them only as much as is necessary, as they lose some flavor by soaking. +When they are to be used for garnishing, they are thrown into water with +lemon-juice, one tablespoonful of juice to a quart of water, and are +afterward boiled in the same water; this keeps them white. The water +they are boiled in should be saved to use in sauces. Again, they may be +put into a saucepan with butter and lemon-juice, and cooked (stirring +frequently) for about five minutes. They are then covered to keep them +moist and white until ready for use. Lemon-juice keeps them white, but +the flavor of the mushroom is somewhat destroyed by it, and so it is not +recommended for general practice. The French peel the caps with a fluted +knife to make them more ornamental, but it is a difficult operation, and +does not repay the trouble.</p> + +<p>“Mr. George Augustus Sala, in a discourse on ‘Dinners Departed,’ refers +to the famous à la mode beef, served in the days of old at the ‘Thirteen +Cantons,’ in Blackmore Street, Drury Lane, and of which Soyer was very +fond. The dish was remarkable for its rich sauce, the concoction of +which was a close secret. However, the former proprietor of the old +eating-house confided the receipt to Mr. Sala. Thus: ‘It was simply made +from a particular mushroom, which he called “morella,” and which I infer +was the Morchella esculenta, described in botanical works. These +mushrooms were gathered in the fields<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_317" id="Page_317">[317]</a></span> round about the metropolis, +dried, reduced to powder, and then used to thicken the sauce and enhance +the flavor of à la mode beef.'”</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="THE_FAIRY_RING_CHAMPIGNON_317" id="THE_FAIRY_RING_CHAMPIGNON_317"></a>THE FAIRY RING CHAMPIGNON</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(MARASMIUS OREADES)</p> + +<p>This is one of the most common and easily recognized mushrooms, and in +their season enough for a sauce may be gathered in almost any dooryard. +The difference between the real and the false fairy is easily +distinguished, the former having the gills wide apart, and a little +mound rising in the center of the cap, while the “false” have the gills +close together and usually a depression in the center of the cap.</p> + +<p>If the “fairies” are dry when gathered soak them in water for a little +while, and then sauté or stew them. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a +saucepan; when it bubbles add a teaspoonful of flour, and cook the flour +a few minutes, but not brown it; then add a half cupful of water or of +milk, stir until smooth, and add a pint of the “fairies.” Simmer for +fifteen minutes, season with salt and pepper. Pour this over softened +buttered toast or over meat; use water to make the sauce if they are +used with meat, and milk if served on toast; or cook them by sautéing +them in a little butter, and serve them on softened toast.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="THE_AGARICUS_CAMPESTRIS_317" id="THE_AGARICUS_CAMPESTRIS_317"></a>THE AGARICUS CAMPESTRIS</h4> + +<p>This mushroom is one and two third inches in diameter; has a white or +cream colored cap and purplish pink gills, the gills becoming brown at a +later stage. When once learned they are unmistakable. It is a highly +esteemed variety, and grows abundantly in meadows and pastures, but +never in the forest. It is the mushroom generally found for sale in the +markets.</p> + +<p>Cut off the stem near the cup, peel them, and lay them with the gills up +on a dish and sprinkle them with salt. After a little time they will be +quite moist; then stew them in a sauce,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">[318]</a></span> the same as given above for the +“fairies.” They may also be sautéd in butter, or be broiled. To broil, +lay them on a fine wire broiler; turn the gills first to the coals for a +few minutes; then turn the other side, and place a piece of butter on +each one. Serve on toast. The fire for broiling mushrooms should not be +very hot or bright.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="AGARICUS_PROCERUS_318" id="AGARICUS_PROCERUS_318"></a>AGARICUS PROCERUS</h4> + +<p>Remove the scurf spots, and broil the same as given above. Use plenty of +butter. Serve on a dish with meat or on toast, as preferred.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="AGARICUS_RUSSULA_318" id="AGARICUS_RUSSULA_318"></a>AGARICUS RUSSULA</h4> + +<p>This mushroom is of various colors. It is found in woody paths and +clearings. It is particularly subject to the attack of worms, and must +be carefully scrutinized. The noxious Russulas have a bitter taste, and +in appearance resemble closely the esculent ones, so care is required to +discriminate them. Wash them well, peel, and broil as directed for the +Campestris. Lay them under a broiled steak, so they will absorb the +juices of the meat.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COPRINUS_COMATUS_318" id="COPRINUS_COMATUS_318"></a>COPRINUS COMATUS AND <a name="COPRINUS_ATRAMENTARIUS_318" id="COPRINUS_ATRAMENTARIUS_318"></a>COPRINUS ATRAMENTARIUS</h4> + +<p>These grow in masses in barnyards, gardens or any rich earth, and in +decomposition become a soft black paste. They should be gathered at the +white or pink stage. Fry them in butter or stew them with butter and a +little milk or cream. They are very juicy, and do not need much liquor +added to stew them.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="THE_BOLETI_318" id="THE_BOLETI_318"></a>THE BOLETI</h4> + +<p>This species is of a distinctly different character from the Agaracini +or gilled mushrooms. The cap is more solid, being filled with a mass of +vertical tubes or pores. Some Boleti are as large as six to eight inches +in diameter, one of them making a meal for several people. Any of this +class which have any tinge of red on the under surface should be +rejected.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319">[319]</a></span>Remove the skin and pores, and either sauté the caps in butter, or dip +them in fritter batter, or egg and crumb them, and fry in smoking-hot +fat. They may also be stewed in a white sauce, but they are very juicy, +and need but little extra liquor. These mushrooms must be carefully +examined for insects, as they are quickly attacked.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PUFF_BALLS_319" id="PUFF_BALLS_319"></a>PUFF BALLS</h4> + +<p>All are edible when gathered at the white stage. Cut them in slices one +half inch thick. Either sauté them in butter, or dip them in beaten egg, +and fry in hot fat or cook on a griddle. Season with pepper and salt.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MORCHELLAE_ESCULENTAE_319" id="MORCHELLAE_ESCULENTAE_319"></a>MORCHELLÆ ESCULENTÆ</h4> + +<p>These mushrooms resemble none but those of the same genus, and all of +them are edible. They are hollow, the exterior resembles a honey-comb, +and they are found in open woods and at the base of trees on lawns. +Great use is made of all the Morels in the French kitchen, and they are +much prized by epicures.</p> + +<p>Morels are usually stuffed with chicken, veal, or other meat, chopped +very fine and highly seasoned. The stem is opened to admit the +forcemeat, then pressed together again. Lay them on slices of bread, and +bake in a moderate oven for ten minutes, or until tender; baste them +with butter while cooking, and sprinkle them with salt and pepper. Wash +the Morels well before stuffing them.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="HYDNUM_CAPUT_MEDUSAE_319" id="HYDNUM_CAPUT_MEDUSAE_319"></a>HYDNUM CAPUT MEDUSÆ</h4> + +<p>Cut the fungus into pieces, and simmer it in a little water; season with +butter, salt, and pepper, and add a little cream. When cooked, pour the +mixture over croûtons, or sauté the pieces in butter; add a little +sherry just before removing from the fire, and serve on softened toast.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CLAVARIA_319" id="CLAVARIA_319"></a>CLAVARIA</h4> + +<p>Separate the branches, and stew in white sauce; or sauté them in butter, +seasoning with lemon-juice, salt, and pepper.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320">[320]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TO_DRY_MUSHROOMS_320" id="TO_DRY_MUSHROOMS_320"></a>TO DRY MUSHROOMS</h4> + +<p>Place them in a saucepan, and cook with gentle heat until the moisture +they give is evaporated; then place them on a hot shelf until they are +thoroughly dry. Pound them to powder in a mortar, and place the powder +in well-closed preserve jars.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SCALLOPED_MUSHROOMS_320" id="SCALLOPED_MUSHROOMS_320"></a>SCALLOPED MUSHROOMS</h4> + +<p>Make a roux of one tablespoonful each of butter and flour. Add two +cupfuls of chicken broth or of white stock; add the chopped stalks of a +pint of mushrooms; reduce the sauce one half; add a tablespoonful of +chopped parsley, pepper, and salt. Turn this sauce into a shallow +baking-dish. Press into it as many mushrooms as will fit into the dish, +placing them close together, with the gills up. Put a piece of butter on +each one; sprinkle the top with crumbs, and place in the oven for five +to eight minutes. Serve in the same dish.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MUSHROOMS_A_LA_POULETTE_320" id="MUSHROOMS_A_LA_POULETTE_320"></a>MUSHROOMS À LA POULETTE</h4> + +<p>Stew the mushrooms in a little water with a tablespoonful of butter; +season with pepper and salt. When ready to serve, add a little milk or +cream; remove from the fire, and stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs; +replace on the fire for a minute to thicken the eggs, and serve at +once.</p> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_321" id="Page_321">[321]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="Chapter_XIII" id="Chapter_XIII"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter XIII</span><br /> +<br /> +ASPIC JELLY, FANCY MOLDING, SUPPORTS</h2> + + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Uses.</b></span> <span class="smcap">Aspic</span> is very useful in the preparation of cold dishes, and +much care should be given to having it perfectly clear and +well flavored. The second one of the two receipts given +below is so simple that the most inexperienced cook can +easily make it. With aspic, cold meats and salads can be +made into most attractive dishes; and it is well worth while +to learn and ornamenting with it. (See opposite pages <a href="#illus-326-f-1">326</a>, +<a href="#illus-328-f-2">328</a>.)</p></div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ASPIC_321" id="ASPIC_321"></a>ASPIC</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 fowl.</li> + <li>1 shin of beef.</li> + <li>1 knuckle of veal.</li> + <li>4 cloves.</li> + <li>1 bay-leaf.</li> + <li>2 onions.</li> + <li>1 carrot.</li> + <li>1 stock of celery.</li> + <li>1 turnip.</li> + <li>½ package Cox’s gelatine.</li> + <li>1 cupful of sherry or Madeira.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Put the chicken, beef, and veal in a pot. Cover them well with cold +water, and let simmer for five or six hours, with the pot covered +closely. An hour before removing from the fire, add the carrot cut into +dice, the cloves, and bay-leaf. Fry in butter the onions and celery (cut +into pieces) to a dark brown, and add them to the stock at the same +time. Remove from the fire, strain, and add one half package of gelatine +(which has been soaked for an hour in one cupful of water) and one +cupful of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_322" id="Page_322">[322]</a></span> sherry or Madeira. Stir until the gelatine is dissolved. Set +away until the next day. There should be two quarts of jelly. If it is +not solid enough to stand, more gelatine may be added at the time of +clearing. Boiling down jelly will not make it more firm.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TO_CLEAR_ASPIC_322" id="TO_CLEAR_ASPIC_322"></a>TO CLEAR ASPIC</h4> + +<p>Remove all the grease from the top of the jelly, and wipe it off with a +cloth wet in hot water, so every particle of grease will be removed. +Stir into the cold jelly the beaten whites and the shells of three eggs +(do not froth the egg). Put it on the fire, and continue to stir until +it boils. Let it boil for five minutes; then strain it through a double +cloth. If not perfectly clear, strain it a second time. Let the jelly +drain through the cloth without pressure.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="QUICK_ASPIC_322" id="QUICK_ASPIC_322"></a>QUICK ASPIC</h4> + +<p>Put into a saucepan one and a half cupfuls of cold water, a +tablespoonful each of chopped carrot and celery, a slice of onion, sprig +of parsley, one bay-leaf, and three cloves; add also one teaspoonful of +beef extract (obtained in jars) dissolved in one cupful of hot water. +Cover, and let simmer for half an hour; then add one half box of Cox’s +gelatine, which has been soaked in one half cupful of cold water for one +hour. Stir until the gelatine is dissolved. Season with salt and pepper. +A tablespoonful of sherry improves the flavor. If a deeper color is +wanted add a few drops of kitchen bouquet or of caramel. Strain through +a double cloth. If it is for molding it can be used at once, as there is +no grease to be removed. If for garnishing, turn it into a shallow pan +to set. It can be stamped or cut into fancy shapes more easily if cooled +in layers of the right thickness. Gelatine added to a good, clear +consommé will give the same results. Observe always the proportion of +one box, or one and a half ounces, of gelatine to one and a quarter +quarts (five cupfuls) of liquor. This simple method of making aspic is +very quick, and is entirely satisfactory.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_323" id="Page_323">[323]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHICKEN_ASPIC_323" id="CHICKEN_ASPIC_323"></a>CHICKEN ASPIC OR JELLY</h4> + +<p>Boil a fowl as directed for chicken stock (page <a href="#CHICKEN_CONSOMME_100">100</a>), or boil a chicken +or knuckle of veal, as directed for white stock (page <a href="#WHITE_STOCK_99">99</a>). Let the stock +cool, take off the grease, then clarify the stock. If veal has been +used, no gelatine will be needed. If chicken only has been used in +making the stock, add to each quart of hot clarified stock three +quarters of a box of Cox’s gelatine which has been soaked one hour in a +half cupful of cold water. Stir until the gelatine is dissolved. This +will make a very clear, light-colored jelly, good for molding, salads, +chicken, etc.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ASPIC_CROUTONS_323" id="ASPIC_CROUTONS_323"></a>ASPIC CROÛTONS</h4> + +<p>When jelly is to be used for garnishing, pour it into a square shallow +pan one and a half inches deep. When it has thoroughly set, turn it onto +a slightly dampened napkin spread on a board in a cool place. Dip a +knife into hot water. Wipe it dry, and cut the jelly in strips the same +width as the thickness of the jelly, then cut it straight across, making +squares, or diagonally across, making diamonds, or into triangles. These +croûtons will stand upright, and can be used for borders. If it is to be +laid flat on the dish the strips need be cut only one quarter of an inch +thick, and can be stamped with cutters into fancy shapes. Small molds +may also be used for getting fancy forms of aspic. (See illustration +facing page <a href="#illus-328-f-3">328</a>.)</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 254px;"> +<a name="illus-328-f-3" id="illus-328-f-3" href="images/illus-328-f-3-full.png"><img src="images/illus-328-f-3.png" width="254" height="141" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">ASPIC CUT INTO ORNAMENTAL SHAPES FOR GARNISHING COLD +DISHES.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TO_CHOP_JELLY_323" id="TO_CHOP_JELLY_323"></a>TO CHOP JELLY</h4> + +<p>Place the jelly on a cold plate, and with a knife cut it very slowly +until it is of the right size. The chopped jelly is used to cover the +top of meats, or to place like a wreath around it on the dish. It may be +either fine or coarse, but each piece should be separate and distinct, +and can be kept so if cut slowly in a cool place, and not allowed to +become warm.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TO_MOLD_JELLY_323" id="TO_MOLD_JELLY_323"></a>TO MOLD JELLY</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(SEE <a href="#illus-326-f-1">ILLUSTRATIONS</a>)</p> + +<p>Where the mold is to be only coated with jelly, first paste a piece of +paper over the top of the mold; when it is firm, cut an<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_324" id="Page_324">[324]</a></span> opening in the +paper, and pour in some cold, but liquid, jelly; and turn the mold on +ice slowly, so that every part may be coated. Pour off any of the jelly +that has not adhered to the sides; remove the paper, and lay in the +material which is to fill the center of the mold. This method is +employed where only a thin coating of jelly is required. Where it is to +be an inch or more in thickness it is better to use a double mold as +explained below.</p> + +<p>When molding jelly have a pan of cracked ice, and set the mold into it. +The jelly will then quickly harden. The mold must be perfectly firm and +upright, or the jelly will not stand straight when unmolded. Do not oil +or grease a mold used for jelly. (See illustrations facing pages <a href="#illus-326-f-1">326</a> and +<a href="#illus-386-f-3">386</a>.)</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 420px;"> +<a name="illus-326-f-1" id="illus-326-f-1" href="images/illus-326-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-326-f-1.jpg" width="420" height="187" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">1. SMALL MOLDS FOR ASPIC. 2. MOLD WITH PAPER PASTED OVER +THE TOP FOR COATING THE MOLD. (SEE PAGE <a href="#TO_MOLD_JELLY_323">323</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TO_UNMOLD_JELLY_324" id="TO_UNMOLD_JELLY_324"></a>TO UNMOLD JELLY</h4> + +<p>Dip the mold quickly into warm (not hot) water; wipe it dry, place the +dish over the top of the mold, and turn them over together. If the jelly +fails to slip out, rub the mold with a cloth wrung out of hot water. It +takes only a low degree of heat to melt jelly, and if too much is used +the fine points and edges will be destroyed. Do not unmold jelly until +it is time to serve it. Do not shake the mold in trying to get it free, +or the jelly is liable to break.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TO_ORNAMENT_MOLDS_324" id="TO_ORNAMENT_MOLDS_324"></a>TO ORNAMENT MOLDS</h4> + +<p>Lay whatever fancy pieces are used for the decoration carefully in place +on the bottom of the mold. With a spoon add only enough jelly to moisten +them; if too much is used, the pieces will float out of place. Let the +jelly harden and fix the decoration; then add as much as will make a +layer one half inch thick; let that set; then place the material which +is to fill the center. If it is a bird, or anything in one piece, add a +little jelly to fix it in place; then fill up the mold. If the material +is a soft substance, set in the double mold (see <a href="#DOUBLE_MOLDS_325">below</a>); or, if one is +not at hand, add a few spoonfuls at a time of the filling, leaving a +space of one half an inch around the sides, and fill this with jelly. +Proceed in this way until the mold is full,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_325" id="Page_325">[325]</a></span> having the top covered +with jelly, so that when unmolded it will form a complete case. If +ornament is used on the sides of the mold, arrange the decoration when +the mold is filled to the right height, dip the pieces in jelly to make +them adhere, and cover them very slowly at first, so they will not float +off. When the filling is to be in alternate layers with jelly, proceed +in the same way, adding one layer at a time, and letting each one harden +before the next is placed. The mold should not be moved while being +filled; one layer should not become too hard before the next one is +added, and no dampness must settle on them. Any of these causes will +make the jelly liable to separate when unmolded. If the mold is placed +on ice, as directed, the jelly hardens quickly, and the filling is soon +accomplished.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="DOUBLE_MOLDS_325" id="DOUBLE_MOLDS_325"></a>DOUBLE MOLDS</h4> + +<p>For salads, and also in many cases for sweet jellies, it is easier to +use a double mold. If one is not at hand two Charlotte Russe molds may +be substituted, or any two molds or tins of the same shape, one of which +is an inch smaller than the other. Place the larger one on ice, and pour +into it enough jelly to make a layer on the bottom the same thickness as +the width of space between the two molds. When it is set, place the +smaller mold, filled with ice, on it; and fill the space between the two +with jelly. When that has set, remove with a spoon the ice from the +small mold, and pour in carefully a little warm water. It can then be +easily lifted out. Be careful not to have the water too warm. Fill the +space left by the small mold with the material to be used, leaving a +space on top to cover with jelly—to encase it. Another way of molding +jellies double, besides using the double mold and the method given above +in ornamenting molds, is to fill the mold entirely with jelly, and when +it has hardened, scoop out with a teaspoon, heated in hot water and +wiped dry, enough of the center to give the space desired. This has to +be done very carefully, as there is danger of the sides falling in. (See +page <a href="#COLD_DESSERTS_386">386</a>.)</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_326" id="Page_326">[326]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="DECORATIONS_FOR_MEAT_JELLY_326" id="DECORATIONS_FOR_MEAT_JELLY_326"></a>DECORATIONS FOR MEAT JELLY</h4> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe"><a name="DAISY_DESIGN_326" id="DAISY_DESIGN_326"></a>DAISY DESIGN</h5> + +<p>Cut a hard-boiled egg into slices one eighth of an inch thick. With a +pastry-bag tube or a small round vegetable-cutter stamp circles from the +yolk. Cut the white strips diagonally, so they form diamond-shaped +pieces. Lay a round piece of yolk in the mold, and the white pieces +around it to simulate a daisy; place small pieces of parsley beside it, +and use the stem of parsley for the stem of the daisy. This decoration +fits very well in a Charlotte Russe mold, or in individual molds. Make +two or three daisies on the large mold, only one on the small ones.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 379px;"> +<a name="illus-324-f-1" id="illus-324-f-1" href="images/illus-324-f-1-full.png"><img src="images/illus-324-f-1.png" width="379" height="231" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">DAISY DESIGN FOR ASPIC JELLY FORMS. (SEE PAGE <a href="#DAISY_DESIGN_326">326</a>.)</span> + +<ul class="illus"> + <li>1. Yolk of hard-boiled egg.</li> + <li>2. White of hard-boiled egg.</li> + <li>3. Parsley leaves.</li> + <li>4. Parsley stems.</li> +</ul> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 224px;"> +<a name="illus-324-f-2" id="illus-324-f-2" href="images/illus-324-f-2-full.png"><img src="images/illus-324-f-2.png" width="224" height="49" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">SLICE OF WHITE OF HARD-BOILED EGG CUT INTO PETALS.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 410px;"> +<a name="illus-326-f-2" id="illus-326-f-2" href="images/illus-326-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-326-f-2.jpg" width="410" height="196" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">SLICES OF TONGUE IN ASPIC (EN BELLEVUE). (SEE PAGE <a href="#En_Bellevue_83">83</a>.)<br /> + +DECORATED WITH HARD-BOILED EGG IN DAISY DESIGN. (SEE PAGE <a href="#DAISY_DESIGN_326">326</a>.)<br /> + +DISH GARNISHED WITH OLIVES CUT IN HALVES.</span> +</div> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe"><a name="BERRY_DESIGN_326" id="BERRY_DESIGN_326"></a>BERRY DESIGN</h5> + +<p>Use capers, grouped like berries, along the stem. Use water-cress for +leaves and parsley for stems. This design, being dark, looks well in +chicken or veal jelly.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 398px;"> +<a name="illus-324-f-3" id="illus-324-f-3" href="images/illus-324-f-3-full.png"><img src="images/illus-324-f-3.png" width="398" height="242" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">BERRY DESIGN FOR ASPIC. (SEE PAGE <a href="#BERRY_DESIGN_326">326</a>.)</span> + +<ul class="illus"> + <li>1. Capers.</li> + <li>2. Parsley or water-cress.</li> + <li>3. Parsley stems.</li> +</ul> +</div> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe"><a name="TO_DECORATE_WITH_TRUFFLES_326" id="TO_DECORATE_WITH_TRUFFLES_326"></a>TO DECORATE WITH TRUFFLES</h5> + +<p>Slice the truffles very thin; stamp them into any form desired. Take +each piece on a long pin, and place it in a well-buttered mold; or for +jelly molds dip them in cold jelly, and they will then adhere to the +sides of the mold. Arrange the pieces symmetrically in any design. If +the truffle is cut in strips, make geometrical forms. Some dishes may be +ornamented after they are unmolded by dipping the pieces of truffle in +cold but liquid jelly, and then applying them. The latter is the method +used for chaudfroid dishes, which are usually much ornamented. (See +illustration facing page <a href="#illus-320-f">320</a>.)</p> + +<p>Green peas, carrots, beets, pickles, string-beans, radishes, parsley, +etc., in combinations, can be made into various designs.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<a name="illus-320-f" id="illus-320-f" href="images/illus-320-f-full.png"><img src="images/illus-320-f.png" width="650" height="403" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">VEGETABLES AND TRUFFLES CUT AND ARRANGED IN DESIGNS FOR +DECORATING MOLDS, MOLDED DISHES, OR CHAUDFROID DISHES. (SEE PAGE <a href="#TO_DECORATE_WITH_TRUFFLES_326">326</a>.)</span> + +<ul class="illus"> + <li>1. Vegetables.</li> + <li>2. Truffles.</li> +</ul> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SOCLES_326" id="SOCLES_326"></a>SOCLES</h4> + +<p>Socles are stands on which to raise birds, chops, or other articles +above the dish to give them a better appearance, and allow more +garnishing. They are also used as supports against which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_327" id="Page_327">[327]</a></span> to rest +larger pieces of meat, fish, tongue, etc., to keep them in place. +Elaborate socles of various shapes are made of tallow by caterers, but +these are not practicable for ordinary cooks to undertake, and they are +also in questionable taste. The simple supports given below are easily +made, and well repay the trouble, especially for cold dishes. They +should be stuck to the dish with white of egg, so they will be firm. The +simplest way of making a socle is to take a loaf of stale bread, remove +the crust, and cut the crumb to the desired shape. Then spread it with +butter, and cover it with parsley chopped very fine. If to be used for a +hot dish, immerse the bread in hot fat until it takes a golden brown. +Another simple socle can be made of hominy. Fill a well-buttered +cake-tin or plain mold with boiled hominy. When cold it will retain the +form of the mold. If desired, the sides of the mold can be ornamented +with vegetables of different colors cut into fancy shapes. (See +<a href="#illus-322-f-1">picture</a>.)</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 435px;"> +<a name="illus-322-f-1" id="illus-322-f-1" href="images/illus-322-f-1-full.png"><img src="images/illus-322-f-1.png" width="435" height="180" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">SOCLES OR SUPPORTS FOR CHOPS, BIRDS, ETC.<br /> +FORM MADE OF RICE, HOMINY OR WHITE CORN MEAL MOLDED IN A TIN BASIN. +(SEE PAGE <a href="#SOCLES_326">326</a>.)</span> + +<ul class="illus"> + <li>1. Green string beans.</li> + <li>2. Balls of carrot or beet cut in halves, or slices stamped into small rounds.</li> + <li>3. Parsley stalk.</li> + <li>4. Balls of carrot, large green peas or capers.</li> + <li>5. Slices of string beans.</li> +</ul> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 432px;"> +<a name="illus-322-f-2" id="illus-322-f-2" href="images/illus-322-f-2-full.png"><img src="images/illus-322-f-2.png" width="432" height="204" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">BLOCKS OF BREAD FOR SUPPORT OF MEAT, POULTRY, FISH, GAME, +ETC.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 411px;"> +<a name="illus-326-f-3" id="illus-326-f-3" href="images/illus-326-f-3-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-326-f-3.jpg" width="411" height="197" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">BONED BIRDS IN ASPIC AROUND SOCLE.<br /> + +The boned birds are molded in fluted individual molds and decorated with +hard-boiled egg in daisy design as directed on page <a href="#DAISY_DESIGN_326">326</a>. Dish garnished +with parsley.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 421px;"> +<a name="illus-328-f-1" id="illus-328-f-1" href="images/illus-328-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-328-f-1.jpg" width="421" height="198" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">BONED BIRDS IN ASPIC, THE SAME AS PRECEDING CUT, SERVED +ON FLAT DISH AND GARNISHED WITH PARSLEY.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RICE_SOCLE_327" id="RICE_SOCLE_327"></a>RICE SOCLE OR CASSEROLE</h4> + +<p>Boil rice with three times its quantity of water, and a little butter, +until it is very soft; then mash or pound it in a mortar until it +becomes a smooth, elastic paste. Press the paste into a plain buttered +mold or pan of the size desired for the socle, and place a weight on it +so it will be compact and firm when cold. Unmold, and with a pointed +knife, a turnip cut wedge-shape, and a butter-stamp, mold the sides to +fancy form. Brush it over with yolk of egg, and place a moment in the +oven to brown; or it may be ornamented the same as the hominy supports, +with vegetables cut into fancy shapes. (See <a href="#illus-322-f-1">illustrations</a>.) If wanted +for a casserole, scoop out carefully a hollow in the center, and fill +with chicken or any creamed meat, or with vegetables.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="POTATO_CASSEROLE_327" id="POTATO_CASSEROLE_327"></a>POTATO CASSEROLE</h4> + +<p>To a quart of seasoned mashed potato add four or six egg yolks. Stir it +over the fire to dry it well; then with the hands or a knife mold it +into a hollow cylinder or into a cup-shaped form;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_328" id="Page_328">[328]</a></span> brush it over with +yolk of egg, and place it a moment in the oven to brown. Fill the center +just before serving with any minced meat, or with birds, chops, +sweetbreads, or any creamed dish. The casserole may also be formed by +pressing the potato into a mold which opens (see <a href="#illus-326-f-1">illustration</a>), or any +mold with fluted or plain sides, which, when buttered, will let the +potato slip out; then egg and brown as before.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="POTATO_SUPPORT_328" id="POTATO_SUPPORT_328"></a>A POTATO SUPPORT FOR HOT MEATS</h4> + +<p>Add slowly to two cupfuls of well-mashed sweet or white potato, beating +all the time over the fire, one cupful of hot milk, a tablespoonful of +butter, one quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper, a teaspoonful of salt, +and lastly, three beaten eggs. Butter well a plain mold of the shape +desired; sprinkle over it as many bread-crumbs as will stick to the +butter; turn in the purée of potatoes, place the mold in a pan of water, +and bake for thirty minutes. Turn the molded potato in the centre of a +dish, and arrange chops or birds around and against it.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CROUSTADES_OF_BREAD_328" id="CROUSTADES_OF_BREAD_328"></a>CROUSTADES OF BREAD</h4> + +<p>Take a loaf of bread two days old, which was baked in a round or a +square tin; pare off the crust, and carve it with a sharp-pointed knife +into vase or cup-shape. Fry it in hot fat to gold color. Paint the +inside with white of egg to prevent its soaking up the sauce of the +filling. Fill with mushrooms, chicken livers, creamed chicken or any +salpicon. Do not put the filling in until ready to serve, and heat the +croustade before adding it.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ROLL_CROUSTADES_328" id="ROLL_CROUSTADES_328"></a>ROLL CROUSTADES</h4> + +<p>Cut off the tops of rolls, or of home-made biscuits of any size. Remove +the crumb from the inside; butter the rolls inside and out, and set in +the oven to brown. Fill with any creamed meat or salpicon.</p> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_329" id="Page_329">[329]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="Chapter_XIV" id="Chapter_XIV"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter XIV</span><br /> +<br /> +CHAFING-DISH RECEIPTS</h2> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHAFING-DISH_COOKING_329" id="CHAFING-DISH_COOKING_329"></a>CHAFING-DISH COOKING</h4> + +<div class="explanations"><p><a name="The_chafing-dish_329" id="The_chafing-dish_329"></a><span class="smcap">The</span> chafing-dish, although a time-honored utensil, has +recently had a renaissance. To-day it is not more valued +for the convenience than for the fun of it. Amateurs and +epicures alike find pleasure in brewing and stewing over the +alcohol lamp; in preparing a luncheon dish, or a novelty for +“tea;” but, best of all, at the midnight hour the chafing-dish +does its best though most disastrous service, for matutinal +headaches have been called the desserts, and just deserts of +late suppers.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Kind_of_chafing-dish_329" id="Kind_of_chafing-dish_329"></a><b>Kind of chafing-dish to use.</b></span> The chafing-dish with double pan (the lower one to hold hot +water) is the preferable one, because dishes may be kept +warm in the hot water, and also because articles cooked with +milk are liable to burn if cooked directly over the flame.</p> + +<p>For safety from fire and staining, the chafing-dish should +stand on a large metal tray, and the lamp should not be +filled too full. Wood alcohol, which is much cheaper than +high-proof spirits, answers just as well the purpose of +heating, but has an unpleasant odor.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Russian_bowls_329" id="Russian_bowls_329"></a><b>Russian bowls.</b></span> The various articles to be used in the preparation of the +dish should be put into Russian bowls, and the bowls placed +on a Japanese tray. These bowls are of wood, and are made of +all sizes. They do not break, they make no noise, and are +ornamental: the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_330" id="Page_330">[330]</a></span> last is a consideration which recommends +them, other things being equal, where fancy work is being +done. The preliminary preparation of the foods should be done +in the kitchen, rather than before the party assembled to +assist in the cooking operation with their advice, praise, and +appetite.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Wooden_spoons_330" id="Wooden_spoons_330"></a><b>Wooden spoons.</b></span> Wooden spoons, which come in all sizes, are also desirable to +use, as they do not become hot, do not scratch the dish, and +are noiseless. Articles prepared in the chafing-dish are +served directly from it, therefore garnishing has no part, but +toast or croûtons go well with most of the preparations, and +these can be toasted or reheated on an asbestos pad placed +over the flame. The water-pan containing hot water should +be placed under the cooking-pan as soon as the flame is +extinguished. It will keep the dish warm, and serve as a +bain-marie (the utensil employed in large kitchens for keeping +dishes hot until time for serving). Two chafing-dishes are +almost a requisite where no other fire than the lamp is to be +called upon, but with this <i>batterie de cuisine</i> a supper can +be easily and quickly prepared without one half of it spoiling +while the other half is being made ready—the toast and hot +water, for instance.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Dishes_suitable_330" id="Dishes_suitable_330"></a><b>Dishes suitable for chafing-dish.</b></span> The dishes most suitable for chafing-dish cooking are stews, +eggs, and cheese. Stews can be modified in a great variety +of ways, the barbecue being a favorite one. The simplest way +of cooking in a chafing-dish is to put a little butter in +the dish, and when it bubbles add oysters, mushrooms or any +article which makes its own liquor; this lacking, a little +water or milk is added, and seasoning to taste.</p> + +<p>Canned chicken, tongue, salmon, crabs, and shrimps make good +dishes and are easily prepared. Paprica, a kind of red pepper, +is especially good for use in chafing-dish cookery instead of +cayenne. +</p></div> + + + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_331" id="Page_331">[331]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PANNED_OYSTERS_331" id="PANNED_OYSTERS_331"></a>PANNED OYSTERS</h4> + +<p>For twenty-five oysters, put in a chafing-dish one tablespoonful of +butter. When it is melted, add the juice of half a lemon and one +teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Then add the oysters, which should be +well drained. Cook, stirring carefully, until they are plump and the +gills a little frilled—no longer. Season with salt and pepper, and +serve at once on toast. The oysters exude enough juice to soften the +toast. Or let the butter brown in the chafing-dish, then add the oysters +and cook until plump or the gills are curled. Then add a wineglassful of +sherry or Madeira. Season with salt and pepper and serve at once. When +wine is used, omit the lemon and parsley, and do not season until after +the wine is added, as wine augments the flavor of salt. Have ready some +toasted bread and pour the oysters over it; or cut the toast into small +squares, stir them into the oysters and serve directly from the +chafing-dish.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="OYSTER_STEW_331" id="OYSTER_STEW_331"></a>OYSTER STEW</h4> + +<p>Put a tablespoonful of butter in the chafing-dish; add a heaping +tablespoonful of flour, and cook a few minutes, stirring all the time so +it will not color. Add a cupful of milk slowly and stir until it begins +to thicken; then add the oyster liquor (have the liquor strained so it +will be free from pieces of shell), and lastly the oysters; season with +salt and pepper and a little celery salt if liked. As soon as the edges +of the oysters curl they are done, and the cooking must be arrested, or +they will become tough.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CREAMED_OYSTERS_331" id="CREAMED_OYSTERS_331"></a>CREAMED OYSTERS AND CLAMS</h4> + +<p>See receipt for creamed clams (page <a href="#CREAMED_CLAMS_135">135</a>). This receipt can easily be +prepared in the chafing-dish. Also oysters à la Poulette given on page +<a href="#OYSTERS_A_LA_POULETTE_133">133</a>.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BARBECUE_OF_FISH_331" id="BARBECUE_OF_FISH_331"></a>BARBECUE OF FISH</h4> + +<p>Marinate one pound of any cold boiled white fish in one tablespoonful of +oil, one tablespoonful of vinegar, one slice of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_332" id="Page_332">[332]</a></span> onion, pepper and salt. +Leave the fish in as large pieces as possible. Put in a chafing-dish +three tablespoonfuls of tomato catsup, three tablespoonfuls of sherry, +three tablespoonfuls of butter. Put the butter in first, and when melted +add the catsup and wine and then the fish. Baste the fish with the +liquor until it is thoroughly heated, and it is then ready to serve. +Thin slices of cooked cold beef, veal, or ham may also be cooked in this +way.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="EGGS_WITH_TOMATOES_332" id="EGGS_WITH_TOMATOES_332"></a>EGGS WITH TOMATOES</h4> + +<p>Put into the chafing-dish a cupful of canned tomatoes, and cook until +they begin to soften; then season with one tablespoonful of butter, salt +and pepper to taste. Add two beaten eggs, and stir constantly until they +begin to thicken. Then extinguish the flame, and the heat of the dish +will be sufficient to complete the cooking. Stir constantly until they +are of the consistency of scrambled eggs. Serve at once, or they will +separate.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TOMATOES_AND_RICE_332" id="TOMATOES_AND_RICE_332"></a>TOMATOES AND RICE</h4> + +<p>Put into a chafing-dish a half cupful of tomatoes; add a bay-leaf, a few +drops of onion-juice, pepper and salt to taste. Let them cook until +tender, then remove the bay-leaf and stir in as much boiled rice as can +be well coated and moistened with the tomatoes. Serve with cracker +biscuits.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CREAMED_DISHES_332" id="CREAMED_DISHES_332"></a>CREAMED DISHES</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(EGGS, CHICKEN, OR VEAL)</p> + +<p>Use the double pan with water. Make a white sauce by putting in the +chafing-dish one tablespoonful of butter; let it bubble, then stir in +one tablespoonful of flour; let it cook a few minutes, but not brown; +then add a cupful of milk slowly, stirring all the time until it is a +little thickened. Season with pepper and salt. Lay in carefully thick +slices of hard-boiled egg. As soon as they are heated, place them on +slices of toast softened with hot water, and pour the thickened sauce +over them. For chicken or meat, season the sauce with a few drops of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_333" id="Page_333">[333]</a></span> +onion-juice, a little chopped celery if convenient, salt, pepper, and +paprica. Have the chicken in good-sized pieces, or meat in thin slices, +and leave them in the sauce only long enough to become well heated; +canned chicken or turkey may be used. Any kind of meat can be minced and +used in this way, in which case the sauce should be made with half milk +and half stock. If stock is not at hand extract of beef (one teaspoonful +to a cupful of boiling water) may be substituted. With chicken or +oysters, the yolk of an egg is added just before it is removed, which +makes it “à la poulette.”</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="DISHES_A_LA_NEWBURG_333" id="DISHES_A_LA_NEWBURG_333"></a>DISHES À LA NEWBURG</h4> + +<p>These are favorite chafing-dish preparations, and may be made of +lobster, crabs, shrimps, soft-shelled clams, chicken, or cold boiled +halibut. Lobster: Take the meat of one boiled lobster, put it in a +chafing-dish with a tablespoonful of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, a +dash of cayenne or of paprica. Stir lightly with a fork for three +minutes, or until the lobster is well heated; then add a wineglassful of +sherry or of Madeira, cook for another three minutes, and then add the +beaten yolks of three eggs, diluted with a half pint of cream. Stir the +mixture constantly for a minute, or just long enough to set the egg. If +cooked too long it will curdle; serve at once. Prepare the dishes à la +Newburg with a double pan. For soft-shell clams use only the soft half +of the clam. For chicken use the white meat cut into inch squares. For +halibut leave the pieces large, and break them as little as possible.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TERRAPIN_333" id="TERRAPIN_333"></a>TERRAPIN</h4> + +<p>The prepared terrapin which comes in cans is the best for the +chafing-dish, and needs only to be heated and seasoned to taste.</p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHICKEN_LIVERS_WITH_MADEIRA_333" id="CHICKEN_LIVERS_WITH_MADEIRA_333"></a>CHICKEN LIVERS WITH MADEIRA</h4> + +<p>Put a tablespoonful of butter in the chafing-dish; add the livers cut +into pieces; cook them directly over the flame, turn<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_334" id="Page_334">[334]</a></span>ing them +constantly, and dredge them while cooking with a tablespoonful of flour. +It will take about five minutes to cook them; add a cupful of stock, and +a few drops of kitchen bouquet. Then place the pan in the double pan +containing water already hot; add to the livers a half cupful of Madeira +and a few stoned olives; season with salt, pepper, and paprica after the +wine is in; cover and let it simmer for ten minutes. Serve with +croûtons.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CRAB_TOAST_334" id="CRAB_TOAST_334"></a>CRAB TOAST</h4> + +<p>Put into the chafing-dish a tablespoonful of butter; when it is melted, +add a tablespoonful of chopped celery, a teaspoonful of flour, a half +cupful of cream or milk, and a canful of crab meat. Stir until the +moisture is nearly evaporated; add a tablespoonful of sherry, salt and +pepper, and paprica to taste; spread on toasted biscuits, or on thin +slices of toast.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SMELTS_A_LA_TOULOUSE_334" id="SMELTS_A_LA_TOULOUSE_334"></a>SMELTS À LA TOULOUSE</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>12 smelts.</li> + <li>½ cupful of white wine.</li> + <li>3 tablespoonfuls of liquor from the mushroom can.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of butter.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of flour.</li> + <li>1 dozen canned mushrooms.</li> + <li>1 truffle.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Cut down the back of the smelts, and remove the bone; close the fish, +and lay them in the chafing-dish with the wine and mushroom liquor taken +from the can. Cook until done, which will take five or six minutes. +Remove and place the smelts on a hot dish. Mix with the liquor in which +they were boiled one cupful of stock; rub together the butter and flour, +and stir this in also, leaving it on the spoon until by stirring it is +dissolved. (This method prevents its getting lumpy.) Then add the +chopped mushrooms and chopped truffle. Season with salt and paprica or a +dash of cayenne. Cook, stirring all the time until the sauce is creamy; +then pour it over the fish. Serve with croûtons.</p> + +<p>This is a good supper dish.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_335" id="Page_335">[335]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MEATS_335" id="MEATS_335"></a>MEATS</h4> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe"><a name="VENISON_335" id="VENISON_335"></a>VENISON</h5> + +<p>Put a tablespoonful of butter in a chafing-dish. When it is very hot, +lay in a piece of venison steak; let it cook a minute on both sides. Use +spoons for turning the meat, so as not to pierce it. When the surfaces +are seared, add a glassful of currant jelly, and baste the venison +constantly with the liquid jelly until cooked rare. Extinguish the +flame, and cut and serve the meat from the chafing-dish.</p> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe"><a name="MUTTON_335" id="MUTTON_335"></a>MUTTON</h5> + +<p>Lay a slice of mutton cut from the leg into a hot chafing-dish; turn it +constantly, using two spoons, until it is cooked rare. Extinguish the +flame, and cover the meat with a maître d’hôtel sauce (page <a href="#MAITRE_DHOTEL_SAUCE_286">286</a>). If +preferred, spread it with currant jelly or with plum sauce; or prepare +it the same as venison, with a little butter, and, instead of jelly, add +a half canful of tomatoes, and finish the cooking in the same way. +Season with a little onion-juice, pepper, and salt.</p> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe"><a name="BEEF_335" id="BEEF_335"></a>BEEF</h5> + +<p>A small steak can be pan-broiled in the same way. For beef a maître +d’hôtel sauce must be used. A Delmonico steak or a small porterhouse +steak, with the bones removed, are the best cuts to use.</p> + +<p>Any meat cooked in the chafing-dish should have all the fat trimmed off, +so that there will be less odor.</p> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe"><a name="WELSH_RAREBIT_335" id="WELSH_RAREBIT_335"></a>WELSH RAREBIT AND GOLDEN BUCK</h5> + +<p>Receipts for Welsh Rarebit and Golden Buck are given on pages <a href="#WELSH_RABBIT_371">371</a> and +<a href="#GOLDEN_BUCK_372">372</a>.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FONDUE_335" id="FONDUE_335"></a>FONDUE</h4> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe">BRILLAT-SAVARIN</h5> + +<p>Savarin gives this receipt, which he says is taken from the papers of a +Swiss bailiff. He says: “It is a dish of Swiss ori<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_336" id="Page_336">[336]</a></span>gin, is healthy, +savory, appetizing, quickly made, and, moreover, is always ready to +present to unexpected guests.”</p> + +<p>He relates an anecdote of the sixteenth century of a M. de Madot, newly +appointed Bishop of Belley, who at a feast given in honor of his +arrival, mistaking the fondue for cream, eat it with a spoon instead of +a fork. This caused so much comment that the next day no two people met +who did not say: “Do you know how the new bishop eat his fondue last +night?” “Yes; he eat it with a spoon. I have it from an eye-witness.” +And soon the news spread over the diocese.</p> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe">RECEIPT</h5> + +<p>“Weigh as many eggs as you have guests. Take one third their weight of +Gruyère cheese, and one sixth their weight of butter. Beat the eggs well +in a saucepan; add the cheese, grated, and the butter. Put the saucepan +on the fire and stir until the mixture is soft and creamy; then add +salt, more or less, according to the age of the cheese, and a generous +amount of pepper, which is one of the positive characters of the dish. +Serve on a hot plate. Bring in the best wine, drink roundly of it, and +you will see wonders.”</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PINEAPPLE_CANAPES_336" id="PINEAPPLE_CANAPES_336"></a>PINEAPPLE CANAPÉS</h4> + +<p>Split in two some square sponge-cakes, which can be bought at the +baker’s for two cents each. Put a little butter in the chafing-dish. +When it is hot put in the slices of cake, and brown them a little on +both sides. Lay the slices on a plate, and spread each one with a layer +of canned chopped pineapple. Turn the juice from the can into the +chafing-dish. Moisten a teaspoonful of arrowroot with cold water, stir +it slowly into the hot juice, and continue to stir until it becomes +thickened and clear. Pour the sauce over the slices of spread cake. If +more than a cupful of juice is used, add more arrowroot in proportion. +Any kind of fruit, and slices of sponge cake or of brioche, can be used +instead of the square individual cakes. Strawberries, raspberries, or +peaches make good sweet canapés.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_337" id="Page_337">[337]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHOCOLATE_MADE_WITH_CONDENSED_MILK_337" id="CHOCOLATE_MADE_WITH_CONDENSED_MILK_337"></a>CHOCOLATE MADE WITH CONDENSED MILK</h4> + +<p>Fill the cups to be used about one third full of condensed milk; add a +heaping teaspoonful of instantaneous chocolate, which is chocolate +ground to a fine powder. Mix them well together; then fill the cup with +boiling water, and stir until the chocolate and milk are dissolved. No +sugar is needed, as the milk is sweetened to preserve it.</p> + + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_338" id="Page_338">[338]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="Chapter_XV" id="Chapter_XV"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter XV</span><br /> +<br /> +BREAD</h2> + + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="The_yeast_plant_338" id="The_yeast_plant_338"></a><b>The yeast plant.</b></span> <span class="smcap">Yeast</span> is a minute plant, and like other plants must have the +right conditions of heat, moisture, and nourishment in order +to live or to nourish. It will be killed if scalded, or if +frozen, as any other plant would be; therefore, as we depend +upon the growth of this little plant for raising our bread, +we must give its requirements as much care as we do our +geraniums or our roses. The yeast plant takes its nourishment +from sugar. This is found in flour. It converts this sugar +into carbonic acid gas and alcohol, and the pressure of this +gas causes the mixture in which it is generated to become +inflated, or to “rise.”</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 167px;"> +<a name="illus-338-f-1" id="illus-338-f-1" href="images/illus-338-f-1-full.png"><img src="images/illus-338-f-1.png" width="167" height="118" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">FORMS OF GROWTH OF THE YEAST PLANT.</span> +</div> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Making bread.</b></span> In mixing bread, we put the yeast into warm (not hot) water; +this we mix with flour, thus supplying the moisture and +nourishment required. We put this mixture in a warm place to +force the growth of the plant. When the dough has become +sufficiently inflated we put it into the oven and raise the +heat to a degree which kills the plant and fixes the air +cells, and our bread is done.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Yeast_338" id="Yeast_338"></a><b>Yeast.</b></span> In cities, where fresh compressed yeast can be obtained, it +is not worth while to prepare one’s own. Where this cannot +be had, the dry yeast-cakes often give satisfactory results, +but are not as reliable as a liquid yeast, which in the +country it is often necessary as well as desirable to make.</p></div> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_339" id="Page_339">[339]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="DICK_BENNETS_RECEIPT_FOR_YEAST_339" id="DICK_BENNETS_RECEIPT_FOR_YEAST_339"></a>DICK BENNET’S RECEIPT FOR YEAST</h4> + +<p>Peel nine good-sized potatoes, and boil them with a large handful of +loose hops tied in a thin muslin bag. Use enough water to cover them +well. When the potatoes are tender strain off the water. Mash the +potatoes, return them to the water in which they were boiled, and mix +them well together. Add two tablespoonfuls of flour, one half cupful of +granulated sugar, and one tablespoonful of salt. Cook it for a few +minutes, adding sufficient flour to make a thin batter. Set it aside +until lukewarm; then add a yeast-cake, or a cupful of liquid yeast. Mix +it well and place in a stone jar. Let it stand for twelve hours in a +warm place. Stir it three times during this period. Place a weight on +the lid of the jar, and set it in a cool place.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="YEAST_RECEIPT_No_2_339" id="YEAST_RECEIPT_No_2_339"></a>YEAST RECEIPT No. 2</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>6 grated raw potatoes.</li> + <li>1 cupful of brown sugar.</li> + <li>½ cupful of salt.</li> + <li>2 quarts of flour.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Mix these together, and add enough water to make a batter as thick as +that used for griddle cakes.</p> + +<p>Pour two quarts of boiling water on as many hops as one can hold in the +hand. Let them boil for five minutes. Strain off the water, and while +hot add it to the batter. When it is lukewarm add a cupful of yeast, or +a yeast cake. Let it stand several hours in a warm place until it rises, +or the top is covered with bubbles. Then place in glass preserve jars, +and keep in a cool place. Use a granite-ware saucepan and a wooden spoon +when making yeast, in order to keep a good color.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="WHAT_TO_DO_WHEN_339" id="WHAT_TO_DO_WHEN_339"></a>WHAT TO DO WHEN YEAST IS NOT OBTAINABLE TO START THE FERMENTATION IN +MAKING YEAST</h4> + +<p>Mix a thin batter of flour and water, and let it stand in a warm place +until it is full of bubbles. This ferment has only half the strength of +yeast, so double the amount must be used.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_340" id="Page_340">[340]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PROPORTIONS_340" id="PROPORTIONS_340"></a>PROPORTIONS OF RAISING MATERIALS TO USE, AND OTHER ITEMS</h4> + +<p>One cake of compressed yeast is equal to one cupful of liquid yeast.</p> + +<p>Baking-powder is a mixture of soda, cream of tartar, and cornstarch, or +rice flour.</p> + +<p>Use one level teaspoonful of baking-powder to each cupful of flour.</p> + +<p>Use one even teaspoonful of soda and two full teaspoonfuls of cream of +tartar to a quart of flour.</p> + +<p>When sour milk is used, take one even teaspoonful of soda to a pint of +milk, and omit the cream of tartar.</p> + +<p>When molasses is used, omit the cream of tartar, and use one teaspoonful +of soda to each cupful of molasses.</p> + +<p>Mix powders with the flour, and sift them together, so as to thoroughly +mix them.</p> + +<p>Mix dry materials in one bowl and liquids in another; combine them +quickly, and put at once into the oven.</p> + +<p>The oven for baking bread should be hot enough to brown a teaspoonful of +flour in five minutes. For biscuits it should brown in one minute.</p> + +<p>Rolls brushed with milk just before baking will have a brown crust.</p> + +<p>Rubbing the crust with butter just before it is taken from the oven will +make it crisp.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="GENERAL_DIRECTIONS_340" id="GENERAL_DIRECTIONS_340"></a>GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING BREAD</h4> + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Time_required_340" id="Time_required_340"></a><b>Time required for making bread.</b></span> Bread is often mixed the night before it is to be baked, and +left to rise from eight to ten hours; but the whole process +of bread-making, from the mixing to the serving, can be done +in two and a half hours if sufficient yeast is used. In hot +weather it is desirable to complete the work in a short +time, in order to prevent fermentation or souring, which +occurs if left<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_341" id="Page_341">[341]</a></span> too long a time. Four hours and a half is +ample time for the whole process, using the ordinary amount +of yeast; two hours for the mixing and rising of the sponge +or dough; one half hour for the kneading and molding; one +hour for the loaves to rise in the pans, and one hour for +the baking.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Raising_the_bread_341" id="Raising_the_bread_341"></a><b>Raising the bread.</b></span> A thin batter called a sponge may be made at night, and the +rest of the flour added in the morning, or the dough may be +mixed and kneaded at night and only molded into loaves in +the morning; but a better way, especially in summer, is to +set the bread early in the morning and have it baked by +noon. It needs to rise twice, once either in the sponge or +in the dough, and again after it is molded into loaves. The +old way of letting it rise three times is unnecessary, and +increases the danger of souring. If the dough gets very +light before one is ready to work it, it should be cut away +from the sides of the pan and pressed down in the center +with the knife. This liberates some of the gas and retards +the fermentation. This can be done several times. If it +rises too high it will collapse, which means souring, but +before that it loses its best flavor, and so should not be +allowed to more than double its bulk.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Proportions_of_materials_341" id="Proportions_of_materials_341"></a><b>Proportions of materials.</b></span> The proportions of flour, liquid, and yeast cannot be +exactly given, as flour of different qualities and degrees +of dryness will absorb more or less liquid, and the amount +of yeast to be used depends both upon the time allowed and +the temperature.</p> + +<p>Two cupfuls of liquid will take six to seven cupfuls of +sifted flour, and this will make two small loaves. One half +a compressed yeast cake will raise this amount in two hours +if kept in a warm place. The other ingredients for this +quantity are one teaspoonful of salt, one tablespoonful of +sugar, and one tablespoonful of butter, lard, or cottolene, +if shortening is desired.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_342" id="Page_342">[342]</a></span>Bread made with milk instead of water, and with shortening, is +more tender than when water alone is used. Boiled potatoes are +sometimes added, and give a more moist bread.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Mixing_342" id="Mixing_342"></a><b>Mixing.</b></span> Dissolve the yeast in a part of the tepid water; in the +rest of the water mix the salt, sugar, and butter, add the +dissolved yeast, and then stir in enough flour to make a soft +dough which will not stick to the hands. If the flour is cold +warm it. If milk is used, scald it, then allow it to become +tepid before mixing it with the yeast. Place the pan in a warm +place free from draughts. When the dough is to be made into +rolls or fancy forms, it needs to be a little stiffer than for +loaves.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Making_a_sponge_342" id="Making_a_sponge_342"></a><b>Making a sponge.</b></span> A sponge is a thin batter made by mixing only a little flour +with the other ingredients. This is left to stand until +filled with large bubbles. The rest of the flour is then +added, to make the dough.</p> + +<p>When bread is to be made in a short time, it is better to +set a sponge instead of making a dough at first; for in this +way the second rising will be a little quicker.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="The_crust_on_dough_342" id="The_crust_on_dough_342"></a><b>The crust on dough.</b></span> When a dough is mixed and set aside to rise, cover the pan +with several thicknesses of cloth to exclude the air and so +prevent a crust forming on the top. It helps also to keep +the dough at an even temperature. If a crust forms it is +difficult to mix it in so thoroughly that it does not leave +hard spots and lines in the bread. There is a bread-pan made +with close-fitting cover, which is recommended.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Kneading_and_molding_342" id="Kneading_and_molding_342"></a><b>Kneading and molding.</b></span> When the dough is made, it should be kneaded for twenty to +thirty minutes. Turn it from the pan onto a board, and work +it by drawing it forward with the fingers and pushing it +away with the balls of the hands, turning it all the time. +This stretches the gluten and changes it from a sticky paste +to a smooth,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_343" id="Page_343">[343]</a></span> elastic substance. Use as little flour on the +board as possible, and work it until it no longer sticks. +The more it is worked the finer will be the grain, and the +less flour used the better will be the bread.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Baking_343" id="Baking_343"></a><b>Baking.</b></span> When dough is made at the first mixing, return it to the pan +after it is kneaded and let it rise to double its size (not +more), and then work it down, mold it into loaves, and let +it rise a second time in the baking-pans. When a sponge is +made, knead the dough when the flour is added to the sponge, +and put it at once into the baking-pans.</p> + +<p>Divide the dough evenly and shape it to the pans as well as +possible, filling the pans only half full. Cover and set +them in a warm place free from draughts. When they have +doubled (not more) in size, put them in the oven. The loaf +rises a little more in the oven. If it is too light, it is +likely to fall, which means it has soured, and for this +there is no remedy. The loaf in the pan should rise in one +hour.</p> + +<p>Care in baking is even more essential than care in mixing and +raising the bread. Test the oven by putting in a teaspoonful +of flour. If it browns the flour in five minutes the heat is +right. <span class="sidenote"><b>The fire.</b></span> Have the fire prepared so it will not need replenishing +during the hour required for the baking. The bread rises after +it goes in the oven, and is likely to rise unevenly if the +oven is hotter on one side than the other; therefore it should +be watched and turned carefully if necessary. At the end of +ten to fifteen minutes the top should be browned, and this +will arrest the rising. If the oven is too cool, the bread is +likely to rise so much as to run over the pan, or to have a +hole in the center. If the oven is too hot it will make a +crust too soon, the centre be underdone, and the crust be too +thick. <span class="sidenote"><b>Time.</b></span> One hour is the time required for baking the ordinary +sized loaf.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_344" id="Page_344">[344]</a></span></p> + +<p>When the bread is taken from the oven turn it out of the +pans and support the loaves in such a way that the air will +reach all sides. <span class="sidenote"><a name="Care_of_bread_344" id="Care_of_bread_344"></a><b>Care of bread after it is baked.</b></span> If the loaves stand flat the bottom crust +will become moist. If wrapped in cloth it will do the same +and give a soft crust, which, however, some prefer to have. +It should not be put in the bread-box until entirely cold.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Baking_bread_rolls_344" id="Baking_bread_rolls_344"></a><b>Baking bread rolls.</b></span> For baking rolls the rule is different from that for bread. +Rolls should rise, to be very light, more than double their +original size, and the oven be hot enough to form a crust at +once. It should brown flour in one minute and bake the rolls +in fifteen to twenty minutes.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Flour_344" id="Flour_344"></a><b>Flour.</b></span> The ordinary white flour of best quality is nearly all +starch, the nourishing parts of the wheat having been mostly +all removed by the bolting to make it white. The whole wheat +flour makes a much more nourishing and health-giving bread, +and when the habit of eating it is once formed, bread made +of the white flour is no longer liked.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Pans_344" id="Pans_344"></a><b>Pans.</b></span> There is a variety of bread-pans giving loaves of different +shapes to be used for different purposes. Besides the square +tin which gives the ordinary square loaf, there is a sheet +iron rounded pan open at the ends. The dough for this pan is +made into a long roll a little thicker in the middle than at +the ends. It gives the shape of the Vienna loaf. After the +bread has risen cut it across the top in three diagonal +slashes with a sharp knife; when it is nearly baked brush over +the top with a thin boiled cornstarch, and it will further +resemble the Vienna loaf. For dinner bread, there is a pan a +foot long of two flutes, about two inches each across and open +at the ends; for this roll the dough long and round, or make +two smaller rolls and twist them together; bake in a hot oven +like biscuits. This gives a long, round crusty loaf like the +French bread. A pan of small flutes is used<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_345" id="Page_345">[345]</a></span> for dinner sticks +or finger rolls, giving a pencil of bread three quarters of an +inch thick and five inches long. <span class="sidenote"><b>Different shapes for variety.</b></span> Bread made in different +shapes gives a pleasant variety and often seems like a different +article when baked so as to give more or less crust.</p></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 419px;"> +<a name="illus-338-f-2" id="illus-338-f-2" href="images/illus-338-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-338-f-2.jpg" width="419" height="193" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">BREAD AND ROLL TINS.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="WATER_BREAD_No_1_345" id="WATER_BREAD_No_1_345"></a>WATER BREAD No. 1</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">TWO SMALL LOAVES)</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>2 cupfuls of tepid water.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>½ compressed yeast cake.</li> + <li>6 to 7 cupfuls of flour.</li> +</ul> + +<p>For mixing, kneading, and baking, see <a href="#GENERAL_DIRECTIONS_340">general directions</a> given at head +of chapter.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="WATER_BREAD_No_2_345" id="WATER_BREAD_No_2_345"></a>WATER BREAD No. 2</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(TWO SMALL LOAVES)</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>2 cupfuls of tepid water.</li> + <li>½ cake of compressed yeast.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>6 to 7 cupfuls of flour.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of sugar.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of butter, lard, drippings, or cottolene.</li> +</ul> + +<p>For mixing, kneading, and baking, see <a href="#GENERAL_DIRECTIONS_340">general directions</a> given at head +of chapter.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MILK_BREAD_345" id="MILK_BREAD_345"></a>MILK BREAD</h4> + +<p>Make the same as Water Bread No. 2, but use milk in place of the water, +or use half milk and half water.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="POTATO_BREAD_345" id="POTATO_BREAD_345"></a>POTATO BREAD</h4> + +<p>Add one medium-sized mashed boiled potato to the sponge of any of the +foregoing receipts. Potato gives a more moist bread, which retains its +freshness longer.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_346" id="Page_346">[346]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RECEIPT_FOR_ONE_LOAF_346" id="RECEIPT_FOR_ONE_LOAF_346"></a>RECEIPT FOR ONE LOAF OF BREAD OR ONE PAN OF BISCUITS TO BE MADE IN TWO +HOURS</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 cupful of scalded milk.</li> + <li>¼ cupful of butter.</li> + <li>3 yeast cakes.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of sugar</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>White of one egg.</li> + <li>3 to 4 cupfuls of flour.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Make a sponge; let it stand in a warm place in a pan of warm water until +full of bubbles; then add the flour, knead it for twenty minutes, mold +into loaf, and let it rise in the baking-pan until double in size, and +bake.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BREAD_MADE_WITH_BAKING-POWDER_346" id="BREAD_MADE_WITH_BAKING-POWDER_346"></a>BREAD MADE WITH BAKING-POWDER</h4> + +<p>Add to four quarts of flour a teaspoonful of salt and six teaspoonfuls +of baking-powder. Sift them three times so as to thoroughly mix them, +and then add slowly a quart of cold water, or enough to make a dough of +the right consistency. Mold it quickly into four loaves, and put at once +into a moderate oven for one and a quarter hours.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BREAD_MADE_OF_WHOLE_WHEAT_346" id="BREAD_MADE_OF_WHOLE_WHEAT_346"></a>BREAD MADE OF WHOLE WHEAT FLOUR</h4> + +<p>Dissolve a yeast cake in two tablespoonfuls of tepid water. Put into a +bowl a pint of milk; add to it a pint of boiling water, and let it stand +until it is lukewarm; then add the dissolved yeast, a teaspoonful of +salt, and enough whole wheat flour to make a thick batter. The batter +should drop, but not run off the spoon. Beat this batter with a spoon +for fifteen minutes. It becomes quite soft and liquid by beating. Add +enough more flour to make a dough; turn it onto the board and knead it a +few minutes; return it to pan, and let rise for three hours, or until +light. Mold it into small loaves; let it rise again, and bake in +moderate oven thirty to forty-five minutes.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="GRAHAM_BREAD_346" id="GRAHAM_BREAD_346"></a>GRAHAM BREAD</h4> + +<p>Dissolve a half teaspoonful of soda in a cupful of lukewarm water. Put a +tablespoonful of butter into a tablespoonful and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_347" id="Page_347">[347]</a></span> a half of molasses, +and let them warm until the butter is melted. Add to it the dissolved +soda and water, and a half teaspoonful of salt. Stir this mixture into a +cupful of light white bread sponge, and add enough Graham flour to make +a stiff batter, or very thin dough. Turn into a greased pan. Let it rise +until even with the top of the pan, and bake in a moderate oven an hour +or an hour and a quarter. Use a spoon, and not the hands, for mixing +Graham flour. A little white flour may be mixed with the Graham flour if +a lighter colored and dryer bread is preferred.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="GLUTEN_BREAD_347" id="GLUTEN_BREAD_347"></a>GLUTEN BREAD</h4> + +<p>Pour a pint of boiling water into a pint of milk; add a teaspoonful of +butter and a teaspoonful of salt. Let it stand until it is lukewarm; +then add a well-beaten egg, a quarter of a yeast-cake dissolved, and +enough gluten to make a soft batter. Cover and stand in a warm place to +rise; then add enough gluten to make a soft dough, and knead it well. +Form it into four loaves, and let rise again. Bake for one hour.</p> + +<p>Gluten bread requires less yeast and less time to rise than ordinary +bread.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BOSTON_BROWN_BREAD_347" id="BOSTON_BROWN_BREAD_347"></a>BOSTON BROWN BREAD</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>2 cupfuls of white cornmeal.</li> + <li>2 cupfuls of yellow cornmeal.</li> + <li>2 cupfuls of Graham flour or of rye meal or of white flour.</li> + <li>1 cupful of molasses.</li> + <li>2 cupfuls of milk (one of them being sour milk, if convenient).</li> + <li>2 cupfuls of boiling water.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of soda.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Mix well the flour, meal, and salt; add to them the boiling water. Mix +the sweet milk and molasses together, and add them to the scalded meal. +Dissolve the soda in the sour milk, and add it last. Turn the mixture +into a covered cylindrical mold or into a covered pail, and steam it for +three hours; then uncover and bake in the oven for half an hour. Slices +of this bread toasted, buttered, and covered with cream make a good +breakfast or luncheon dish.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_348" id="Page_348">[348]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TOAST_348" id="TOAST_348"></a>TOAST</h4> + +<p>Cut the bread in even slices one quarter of an inch thick. Cut off the +crust and trim the pieces into even and uniform shape. There is no waste +in this, as the scraps of bread can be dried and crumbed. If the bread +is fresh, let it dry a few minutes in the oven. Place it on a wire +toaster, and turn often until well dried through; then hold it over the +coals a minute to take an even golden color. Toast requires careful +watching, or it will burn or be unevenly colored. Toast should not be +served until the moment it is required. A few pieces only should be +served at a time, and the plate should be hot. If wrapped in a napkin, +or piled up, it quickly becomes damp and loses its crispness. If a soft +toast is wanted, color the bread at once without drying it; the center +will then be only heated. Toast used under game or meats is made dry, +buttered, and sprinkled with salt; then softened with a little boiling +water.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MILK_TOAST_348" id="MILK_TOAST_348"></a>MILK TOAST</h4> + +<p>Make a dry toast; spread it with butter, and sprinkle it with salt. +Place it in the dish in which it is to be served, and pour over it a +little boiling water; cover it, and place in the oven a few minutes to +steam and soak up the water. It should have enough water to entirely +soften it, but not lose its shape. Put one teaspoonful of butter in a +saucepan. When it bubbles, stir in a teaspoonful of flour, and let it +cook a minute without coloring. Add slowly, stirring all the time, one +cupful of milk. Cook until it is slightly thickened; add a saltspoonful +of salt. Pour this thickened milk over the softened toast just before +serving. Bread for milk toast should be cut in even slices one half inch +thick, thoroughly dried in toasting, evenly colored, and steamed until +tender. When cream is used, it is scalded and poured over the softened +toast.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PANADA_348" id="PANADA_348"></a>PANADA</h4> + +<p>Split Bent’s water biscuits in two; sprinkle salt or sugar between them, +and place together again; or, use two large<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_349" id="Page_349">[349]</a></span> soda biscuits, or pilot +bread, or Passover bread. Place them in the dish in which they will be +served; pour over enough boiling water to cover them. Cover the dish, +and place it in the open oven, or on the hot shelf, until the biscuits +have become soft like jelly; pour off any water that has not been +absorbed, using care not to break the biscuits. Sprinkle again with salt +or sugar. A little cream or hot milk can be added if desired.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PULLED_BREAD_349" id="PULLED_BREAD_349"></a>PULLED BREAD</h4> + +<p>Break off irregular pieces of the crumb of fresh bread, and dry it in a +very slow oven until lightly colored. The inside of fresh biscuits left +over can be treated in this way, and will keep an indefinite time. They +should be heated in the oven when served, and are good with chocolate, +or coffee, or bouillon. The crusts of the biscuits may be used as cups +for creamed meats or vegetables, or for eggs.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ZWIEBACK_349" id="ZWIEBACK_349"></a>ZWIEBACK</h4> + +<p>Cut rusks into slices one half inch thick, and dry them in a very slow +oven until dried through, and of a deep yellow color. Slices of Vienna +bread can be used in the same way.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BREAD_FRITTERS_349" id="BREAD_FRITTERS_349"></a>BREAD FRITTERS</h4> + +<p>Take pieces of raised bread-dough the size of an egg, drop them into +smoking hot fat, and fry to a <a name="corr25" id="corr25"></a>gold color, the same as doughnuts. Drain +and serve on a napkin for breakfast, or sprinkle them with powdered +sugar and ground cinnamon mixed, and serve them for luncheon.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BREAD_ROLLS_349" id="BREAD_ROLLS_349"></a>BREAD ROLLS</h4> + +<p>For one panful of biscuits take as much raised bread-dough as will make +one loaf of bread. Use any kind of bread-dough, but if no shortening has +been used, add a tablespoonful of butter to this amount of dough. Add +also more flour to make a stiffer dough than for bread. Work it for ten +minutes so as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_350" id="Page_350">[350]</a></span> to give it a finer grain. Cut it into pieces half the +size of an egg, roll them into balls, and place in a pan some distance +apart. If enough space is given, each roll will be covered with crust, +which is the best part of hot breads. If, however, the crumb is +preferred, place them in the pan near enough to run together in rising. +Let the biscuits rise to more than double size, and bake in a quick oven +twenty to thirty minutes.</p> + +<p>When removed from the oven rub the crusts with a little butter, and wrap +the rolls in a cloth until ready to serve. This will give a tender +crust. If a deep color is liked, brush the rolls with milk or egg before +placing them in the oven. A glaze is obtained by brushing them with +sugar dissolved in milk when taken from the oven, then replacing them in +the oven again for a moment to dry.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CRESCENTS_350" id="CRESCENTS_350"></a>CRESCENTS</h4> + +<p>Add to bread-dough a little more sugar, and enough flour to make a stiff +dough. Roll it to one eighth inch thickness. Cut it into strips six +inches wide, and then into sharp triangles. Roll them up, commencing at +the base; the point of the triangle will then come in the middle of the +roll. Turn the points around into the shape of crescents. Place on tins +to rise for half an hour, brush the tops with water, and bake until +lightly colored. When taken from the oven brush the tops with thin +boiled cornstarch water, and place again for a minute in the oven to +glaze.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BRAIDS_AND_TWISTS_350" id="BRAIDS_AND_TWISTS_350"></a>BRAIDS AND TWISTS</h4> + +<p>Take any bread- or biscuit-dough. Roll it one inch thick, and cut it +into strips one inch wide. Roll the strips on the board to make them +round. Brush the strips with butter. Braid or twist the strips together, +making them pointed at the ends, and broad in the middle. Let them rise +a little, but not so much as to lose shape, and bake in a quick oven. +Glaze the tops the same as directed above for crescents.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_351" id="Page_351">[351]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CLEFT_ROLLS_351" id="CLEFT_ROLLS_351"></a>CLEFT ROLLS</h4> + +<p>Make the dough into balls of the size desired. After the rolls have +risen cut each roll across the top with a sharp knife about an inch +deep. If cut twice it makes a cross roll. Glaze the tops as directed for +crescents, or brush them with milk and sugar.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="LUNCHEON_AND_TEA_ROLLS_351" id="LUNCHEON_AND_TEA_ROLLS_351"></a>LUNCHEON AND TEA ROLLS</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>2 quarts of flour.</li> + <li>3 cups of boiled milk.</li> + <li>3 tablespoonfuls of sugar.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>½ cupful of butter.</li> + <li>Whites of 2 eggs.</li> + <li>½ yeast cake.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Boil the milk, dissolve in it the sugar and salt, and add the butter to +melt it. When this mixture becomes tepid, add the beaten whites of the +eggs and the yeast, dissolved in two tablespoonfuls of water; then stir +in the flour, and knead it for twenty to thirty minutes; cover it well, +and put it aside in a warm place free from draughts to rise over night. +If to be used for breakfast, mold the rolls to any shape desired; let +them rise to more than double their size, and bake for thirty minutes. +If they are to be used for luncheon, cut down with a knife the raised +dough in the morning, and keep it in a cool place until an hour and a +half before the time for serving the rolls; then mold, raise, and bake +them. If they are to be used for tea, do not set the dough until +morning. In summer allow four and a half hours for the whole work, the +same as directed for bread on page <a href="#GENERAL_DIRECTIONS_340">340</a>.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PARKER_HOUSE_ROLLS_351" id="PARKER_HOUSE_ROLLS_351"></a>PARKER HOUSE ROLLS</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>2 quarts of flour.</li> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls of butter, or lard, or cottolene.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>1 pint of milk.</li> + <li>⅓ compressed yeast cake.</li> + <li>½ cupful of sugar (scant).</li> +</ul> + +<p>Put the salt into the flour, and work in the shortening thoroughly. +Dissolve the yeast in one cupful of warm water. Scald the milk, and +dissolve the sugar in it after it is taken off<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_352" id="Page_352">[352]</a></span> the fire. When the milk +is lukewarm, mix the yeast with it. Make a hollow in the center of the +flour, and pour into it the milk and yeast mixture. Sprinkle a little of +the flour over the top. Cover the pan well, and leave it to rise. If +this sponge is set at five o’clock, at ten o’clock stir the whole +together thoroughly with a spoon. Do not beat it, but stir it well, as +it gets no other kneading. In the morning turn the dough onto a board, +work it together a little, and roll it evenly one half inch thick. Lift +the dough off the board a little to let it shrink all it will before +cutting. Cut it into rounds with a good-sized biscuit-cutter. Place a +small piece of butter on one side, and double the other side over it, so +the edges meet. Let them rise for two hours, and bake in a quick oven +for twenty minutes. If the rolls are to be used for luncheon, cut down +the dough in the morning and keep it in a cool place until the time for +molding them. If for tea, set the sponge in the morning, using one half +cake of compressed yeast.<a name="FNanchor_352-1_10" id="FNanchor_352-1_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_352-1_10" class="fnanchor">352-*</a></p> + + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TEA_BISCUITS_352" id="TEA_BISCUITS_352"></a>TEA BISCUITS MADE WITH BAKING POWDER</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>4 cupfuls of sifted flour.</li> + <li>3 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of butter.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Add the salt and baking-powder to the flour and sift them. Rub in the +butter well. With a fork stir in lightly and quickly sufficient milk to +make a soft dough. The dough must be only just stiff enough to roll. +Flour the board well, turn the dough onto it, and lightly roll it to a +half inch thickness. Cut it into small circles, brush the tops with +milk, and bake in a quick oven for twenty to thirty minutes.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BISCUITS_352" id="BISCUITS_352"></a>BISCUITS MADE WITH SOUR MILK</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 quart of flour.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of soda.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of butter or lard.</li> + <li>Milk.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Mix the soda and the salt with the flour, and sift them several times so +they will be thoroughly mixed. Rub in the butter<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_353" id="Page_353">[353]</a></span> evenly. Stir in +lightly with a fork enough sour milk to make a dough just stiff enough +to roll. The dough can be left very soft if the board is well floured +and the rolling-pin is used very lightly, patting the dough rather than +rolling it. Roll it out quickly an inch thick. Cut it into small rounds. +Bake in a quick oven twenty to thirty minutes. The dough can be rolled +half an inch thick, and two rounds placed together with a small bit of +butter between. They are then called twin biscuits. These biscuits may +be made of sweet milk, in which case two rounding teaspoonfuls of cream +of tartar must be used with the soda and mixed with the flour.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CORN_BREAD_No_1_353" id="CORN_BREAD_No_1_353"></a>CORN BREAD No. 1</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>2 cupfuls of flour.</li> + <li>1½ cupfuls of cornmeal (yellow or white).</li> + <li>½ cupful of sugar.</li> + <li>1 saltspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>3 teaspoonfuls of baking powder.</li> + <li>1⅔ cupfuls of milk.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of butter or lard melted.</li> + <li>2 eggs.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Mix the flour, meal, salt, and baking-powder together thoroughly. Beat +together the eggs and sugar; add the butter, then the flour mixture, and +lastly mix in quickly the milk and turn into a flat pan to bake. Sour +milk can be used instead of sweet milk, in which case a teaspoonful of +soda dissolved in a quarter of a cupful of hot water is used, and +baking-powder is omitted.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CORN_BREAD_No_2_353" id="CORN_BREAD_No_2_353"></a>CORN BREAD No. 2</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 cupful of fine cornmeal sifted.</li> + <li>1½ cupfuls of milk.</li> + <li>2 eggs.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of butter.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of baking-powder.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of sugar.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Scald the milk and pour it onto the sifted meal. Let it cool, then add +the melted butter, salt, sugar, baking-powder, and yolks of the eggs. +Stir it quickly and thoroughly together, and lastly fold in the whites +of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Bake in a flat pan in a hot oven +for thirty minutes.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_354" id="Page_354">[354]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PUFFS_OR_POP-OVERS_354" id="PUFFS_OR_POP-OVERS_354"></a>PUFFS OR POP-OVERS</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>2 cupfuls of milk.</li> + <li>2 cupfuls of flour.</li> + <li>2 eggs (whites and yolks beaten separately).</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of salt.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Mix the salt with the flour. Mix the beaten yolks with the milk, and add +them slowly to the flour to make a smooth batter. Lastly fold in the +whipped whites. Put the batter at once into hot greased gem-pans, +filling them half full, and put into a hot oven for thirty minutes. +Serve at once, as they fall as soon as the heat is lost.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="GRAHAM_GEMS_354" id="GRAHAM_GEMS_354"></a>GRAHAM GEMS</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>2 cupfuls of Graham flour.</li> + <li>1 cupful of milk.</li> + <li>1 cupful of water.</li> + <li>2 eggs.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of sugar.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Mix the dry ingredients together; beat the eggs separately. Mix the milk +with the salt and sugar; add the water, then the flour, and lastly fold +in the whipped whites, and put at once into very hot greased gem-pans, +filling them half full. Bake in a hot oven thirty minutes.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CORN_GEMS_354" id="CORN_GEMS_354"></a>CORN GEMS</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(MADE OF CORN FLOUR)</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>2 eggs.</li> + <li>1 cupful of corn flour.</li> + <li>½ cupful of white flour.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of butter.</li> + <li>1 cupful of milk.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of baking-powder.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Break the yolks of the eggs; add to them milk, salt, and melted butter; +mix them well together, then add the two kinds of flour. Beat the whites +of the eggs to a stiff froth; when they are ready, add the baking-powder +to the flour mixture and then fold in lightly the whipped whites. Turn +at once into warm gem-pans, a tablespoonful of batter into each one, and +bake in a hot oven for fifteen minutes. This receipt can be used for any +kind of flour.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_355" id="Page_355">[355]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MUFFINS_No_1_355" id="MUFFINS_No_1_355"></a>MUFFINS No. 1</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>2 cupfuls of flour.</li> + <li>1 cupful of milk.</li> + <li>1 level tablespoonful of butter.</li> + <li>2 eggs (beaten separately).</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>2 even teaspoonfuls of baking-powder.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Mix thoroughly the baking-powder and salt with the flour. Stir the milk +and yolks together; add the butter, melted; then the flour, and lastly +fold in the whipped whites. Turn into hot gem-pans, and bake at once in +a very hot oven for fifteen to twenty minutes. Serve immediately.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RAISED_MUFFINS_355" id="RAISED_MUFFINS_355"></a>RAISED MUFFINS</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 pint of milk, scalded.</li> + <li>½ compressed yeast-cake.</li> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls of butter.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of sugar.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>About 2½ cupfuls of flour.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Scald the milk, and add the butter, sugar and salt. When it has become +lukewarm, add the yeast dissolved in a quarter cupful of lukewarm water. +Stir in enough flour to make a drop batter, cover it well, place it in a +warm place free from draughts, and let rise over night. In the morning +stir it down, grease some muffin-rings, place them on a hot greased +griddle, fill the rings half full of batter. It will rise to the top. +Turn the muffins with a pancake turner and bake them on both sides until +a thin brown crust is formed. Two eggs may be added to the batter in the +morning if desired. If so, beat the yolks and whites separately and add +the whites last.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ENGLISH_MUFFINS_355" id="ENGLISH_MUFFINS_355"></a>ENGLISH MUFFINS OR CRUMPETS</h4> + +<p>Use the receipt for raised muffins, omitting the sugar and eggs. Do not +bake them so much. Turn them before the crust becomes brown. When cold, +pull them apart and toast them.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SALLY_LUNN_355" id="SALLY_LUNN_355"></a>SALLY LUNN</h4> + +<p>This is the same as the receipt for Muffins No. 1, using three eggs +instead of two, and baking it in a cake-tin instead of gem-pans. In this +form it is served for luncheon or for tea.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_356" id="Page_356">[356]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="WAFFLES_356" id="WAFFLES_356"></a>WAFFLES</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>2 cupfuls of flour.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of baking-powder.</li> + <li>1¼ cupfuls of milk.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of butter, or lard, or cottolene.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>3 eggs beaten separately.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Mix the flour, baking-powder, and salt thoroughly together. Mix the +yolks with the milk; then the melted butter, the flour, and lastly the +beaten whites. Have the waffle-iron very clean; let it be thoroughly +heated on both sides. Rub it over with a piece of salt pork, or with a +piece of butter tied in a clean rag. Close the iron, and turn it so the +grease will cover every part. Put enough batter into each section of the +iron to fill it two-thirds full. Shut the iron, and cook the waffles a +minute or longer on each side. Serve the waffles hot, using with them +syrup or powdered sugar mixed with ground cinnamon.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="HOMINY_CAKE_356" id="HOMINY_CAKE_356"></a>HOMINY CAKE</h4> + +<p>Stir into one cupful of boiled hominy while it is still hot a +teaspoonful of butter, one saltspoonful of salt, and the yolks of two +eggs well beaten; add slowly a cupful of milk, and then a half cupful of +fine cornmeal; lastly, fold in the whipped whites of two eggs. Bake in a +flat tin in a hot oven for twenty to thirty minutes. Cold boiled hominy +left over can be used for this dish by heating it with enough water to +moisten it.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="OAT_CAKE_356" id="OAT_CAKE_356"></a>OAT CAKE</h4> + +<p>Mix oatmeal, which is ground fine, with a little salt and enough water +to make a stiff dough. Roll it on a floured board to one eighth inch +thickness, and bake it in one sheet in a slow oven without browning, +until dry and hard. It should be gray in color. When done, break it into +irregular pieces. This is a Scotch dish, and in Scotland is made with a +fine oat flour, which is difficult to obtain in this country.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_357" id="Page_357">[357]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BRAN_BISCUITS_357" id="BRAN_BISCUITS_357"></a>BRAN BISCUITS</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 pint of bran.</li> + <li>½ pint of flour.</li> + <li>½ pint of milk.</li> + <li>6 tablespoonfuls of molasses.</li> + <li>1 even teaspoonful of baking soda.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Mix the bran, flour, and soda together, mix the molasses and milk +together, and add the flour mixture. Bake in gem-pans. Two of these +biscuits eaten at each meal act as a laxative and cure for constipation. +The receipt is furnished by a physician.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BREAD_STICKS_357" id="BREAD_STICKS_357"></a>BREAD STICKS</h4> + +<p>Any bread-dough may be used, though that with shortening is preferred. +After it is kneaded enough to be elastic, cut it into pieces half the +size of an egg, roll it on the board into a stick the size of a pencil +and a foot long. Lay the strips on a floured baking-tin or sheet. Let +them rise a very little, and bake in a moderate oven, so they will dry +without browning. Serve them with bouillon or soups, or with tea.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RUSKS_357" id="RUSKS_357"></a>RUSKS</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 cupful of milk scalded.</li> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls of butter.</li> + <li>3 tablespoonfuls of sugar.</li> + <li>2 eggs.</li> + <li>½ cake of compressed yeast.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>Flour.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Make a sponge (see <a href="#Making_a_sponge_342">directions</a> at head of chapter), using the milk, salt, +and yeast. When it is full of bubbles, add the butter, sugar, and +well-beaten eggs. Stir in enough flour to make a soft dough. Knead it +for twenty minutes. Let it rise to double its bulk; then mold it into +balls the size of half an egg. Place them rather close together in a +baking-tin, and let them rise until very light. When they are ready to +go into the oven, brush over the tops with sugar dissolved in milk, and +sprinkle the tops with dry sugar. Bake in a hot oven about half an hour. +Rusks must be well kneaded and be very light before being baked. A part +of the dough set for bread may be made into rusks by adding to it an +egg, sugar, and butter.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_358" id="Page_358">[358]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="DRIED_RUSKS_358" id="DRIED_RUSKS_358"></a>DRIED RUSKS</h4> + +<p>Cut rusks that are a day old into slices one half inch thick, and dry +them in a slow oven until a fine golden color.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BATH_BUNS_358" id="BATH_BUNS_358"></a>BATH BUNS</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>4 cupfuls of flour.</li> + <li>1 cupful of milk.</li> + <li>½ cupful of sugar.</li> + <li>¼ cupful of butter.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>½ nutmeg grated.</li> + <li>½ compressed yeast-cake.</li> + <li>3 eggs.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Mix the salt, sugar, and grated nutmeg with the flour. Scald the milk +and melt the butter in it. Dissolve the yeast in a quarter cupful of +lukewarm water. When the scalded milk has become lukewarm, add to it the +dissolved yeast and the eggs, which have been well beaten, the yolks and +whites separately; then add the flour. Use more flour than given in the +receipt, if necessary, but keep the dough as soft as possible. Knead it +on a board for twenty minutes. Let it rise over night in a warm place, +well covered. In the morning turn it on to the molding-board, roll it +and rub it lightly with butter, then fold it several times, cut it into +pieces the size of a large egg, and mold it into balls. The folding is +to make it peel off in layers when baked, but may be omitted if desired. +Press into the side of each bun, after it is molded, a piece of citron +and lump of sugar wet with lemon-juice. Place the buns in a baking-tin +and let them rise to more than double their size. Brush the tops with +egg diluted with water to give a brown crust. Bake in a moderate oven +for half an hour. When baked, brush over the tops with sugar dissolved +in milk, and return to the oven for a few minutes to glaze. Sprinkle a +little powdered sugar over the tops as soon as they are removed from the +oven.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COFFEE_CAKE_358" id="COFFEE_CAKE_358"></a>COFFEE CAKE</h4> + +<p>Take two cupfuls of bread sponge, add one egg well beaten, a half cupful +of sugar, a tablespoonful of butter, and a cupful of tepid water. Mix +them well together, then add enough flour to make a thin dough. Let it +rise until double in size. Turn it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_359" id="Page_359">[359]</a></span> on a board, and roll it out an inch +thick. Place it in a baking-tin, cutting it to fit the tin, and let it +rise again until light. Just before placing it in the oven, spread over +the top an egg beaten with a teaspoonful of sugar. Sprinkle over this +some granulated sugar, and a few split blanched almonds. If preferred, +the dough may be twisted and shaped into rings instead of being baked in +sheets. This cake, which is a kind of bun, is, as well as bath buns, a +good luncheon dish to serve in place of cake; or either of them, served +with a cup of chocolate, makes a good light luncheon in itself.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BRIOCHE_359" id="BRIOCHE_359"></a>BRIOCHE</h4> + +<p>Brioche is a kind of light bun mixture much used in France. It has many +uses, and is much esteemed. It will not be found difficult or +troublesome to make after the first trial. The paste once made can be +used for plain brioche cakes, buns, rings, baba, savarins, fruit +timbales (see page <a href="#TIMBALE_OF_BRIOCHE_406">406</a>), cabinet puddings, etc.</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 cake of compressed yeast.</li> + <li>¼ cupful of lukewarm <a name="corr26" id="corr26"></a>water.</li> + <li>1 quart of flour.</li> + <li>7 eggs.</li> + <li>¾ pound of butter.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>2 teaspoonfuls of sugar.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Dissolve the yeast-cake in a quarter of a cupful of lukewarm water. Stir +it so it will be thoroughly mixed, then add enough flour to make a very +soft ball of paste. Drop this ball into a pan of warm water (the water +must not be hot, or it will kill the yeast plant). Cover, and set it in +a warm place to rise, which will take about an hour. This is for leaven +to raise the brioche. The ball of paste will sink to the bottom of the +water at first, but will rise to the top later, and be full of bubbles.</p> + +<p>Put the rest of the flour on a platter, and make a well in the center of +it. Into this well put the butter, salt, sugar, and four eggs. Break the +eggs in whole, and have the butter rather soft. Work them together with +the hand, gradually incorporating the flour, and adding two more eggs, +one at a time.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_360" id="Page_360">[360]</a></span> Work and beat it with the hand until it loses its +stickiness, which will take some time. When the leaven is sufficiently +light, lift it out of the water with a skimmer, and place it with the +dough. Work them together, add one more egg, the last of the seven, and +beat it for a long time, using the hand. The longer it is beaten the +better and the finer will be the grain. Put the paste in a bowl, cover, +and let it rise to double its size, which will take four to five hours; +then beat it down again, and place it on the ice for twelve or +twenty-four hours. As beating and raising the paste require so much +time, the work should be started the day before it is to be used.</p> + +<p>After taking the paste from the ice, it will still be quite soft, and +have to be handled delicately and quickly. It softens more as it becomes +warm.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BRIOCHE_ROLL_WITH_HEAD_360" id="BRIOCHE_ROLL_WITH_HEAD_360"></a>TO MAKE A BRIOCHE ROLL WITH HEAD</h4> + +<p>Take up carefully a little of the paste, and turn it into a ball about +three inches in diameter; flatten it a little on top, and with a knife +open a little place on top, and lay a small ball of paste into it. Let +it rise to double its size, and bake in a moderate oven for twenty to +thirty minutes. If a glazed top is wanted, brush it over with egg yolk +diluted one half with water, before putting it in the oven. Serve hot or +perfectly fresh.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BRIOCHE_CROWN_OR_RING_360" id="BRIOCHE_CROWN_OR_RING_360"></a>TO MAKE A BRIOCHE CROWN OR RING</h4> + +<p>Roll the paste into a ball, roll it down to a thickness of half an inch, +keeping the form round. Cut it several times through the middle, and +twist the paste into a rope-like ring. Let it rise, brush the top with +egg, and bake in a well-heated oven for about half an hour.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TO_MAKE_BUNS_360" id="TO_MAKE_BUNS_360"></a>TO MAKE BUNS</h4> + +<p>Roll the paste into small balls, glaze the tops when ready to go into +the oven, and bake about twenty minutes.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_361" id="Page_361">[361]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BRIOCHE_FOR_TIMBALE_361" id="BRIOCHE_FOR_TIMBALE_361"></a>BRIOCHE FOR TIMBALE, OR CABINET PUDDINGS</h4> + +<p>When the brioche is to be used for timbales, or cabinet puddings, turn +the paste into a cylindrical mold, filling it half full. Let it rise to +the top of the mold, and bake in a hot oven for about half an hour.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PANCAKES_361" id="PANCAKES_361"></a>PANCAKES</h4> + +<p>The batter for pancakes should be smooth, and thin enough to run freely +when turned onto the griddle. In order to have all the cakes of the same +size an equal quantity of batter must be used for each cake. It should +be poured steadily at one point, so the batter will flow evenly in all +directions, making the cake perfectly round. An iron spoonful of batter +makes a cake of good size; but if a larger one is wanted, use a ladle or +cup; for if the batter is put on the hot griddle by separate spoonfuls, +the first becomes a little hardened before the second is added, and the +cake will not be evenly baked, or have so good an appearance. Lastly, +the baking is of great importance. The cakes must be well browned on +both sides, the color even and uniform on every part. To effect this the +griddle must be perfectly clean and evenly heated. A soap-stone griddle +is the best, as it holds the heat well, and as it requires no greasing. +The cakes baked thus are by some considered more wholesome. The griddle +should stand on the range for some time before it is needed in order to +get thoroughly and evenly heated. Where an iron griddle is used, it +should also be given time to become evenly heated, and while the cakes +are baking it should be moved so the edges may in turn come over the +hottest part of the range. It must be wiped off and greased after each +set of cakes is baked. A piece of salt pork on a fork is the best thing +for greasing, as it makes an even coating, and too much grease is not +likely to be used. An iron griddle is often allowed by careless cooks to +collect a crust of burned grease around the edges. When in this +condition, the cakes will not, of course, be properly baked. The griddle +should be hot enough to hiss when the batter is turned onto<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_362" id="Page_362">[362]</a></span> it. Serve +the cakes as soon as baked, in a folded napkin on a hot plate. Two +plates should be used, so while one is being passed the next griddleful +may be prepared to serve.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PLAIN_PANCAKES_362" id="PLAIN_PANCAKES_362"></a>PLAIN PANCAKES</h4> + +<p>Stir two cupfuls of milk into two beaten eggs; add enough flour to make +a thin batter. Add a half teaspoonful of salt and a heaping teaspoonful +of baking-powder. Sour milk can be used, in which case omit the +baking-powder and add a half teaspoonful of soda. The baking-powder or +soda should not be put in until just before beginning to bake the cakes. +The cakes will be lighter and better if the eggs are beaten separately, +and the whipped whites added the last thing.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FLANNEL_CAKES_362" id="FLANNEL_CAKES_362"></a>FLANNEL CAKES</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 tablespoonful of butter.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of sugar.</li> + <li>2 eggs.</li> + <li>2 cupfuls of flour.</li> + <li>Milk.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of baking-powder.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, add the beaten eggs, then the +flour, in which the baking-powder has been sifted. Add enough milk to +make a smooth, thin batter.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RICE_PANCAKES_362" id="RICE_PANCAKES_362"></a>RICE PANCAKES</h4> + +<p>Make the same batter as for plain cakes, using half boiled rice and half +flour. Any of the cereals—hominy, oatmeal, cracked wheat, etc.—can be +used in the same way, utilizing any small quantities left over; a little +butter is sometimes added.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BREAD_PANCAKES_362" id="BREAD_PANCAKES_362"></a>BREAD PANCAKES</h4> + +<p>Soak stale bread in hot water until moistened; press out the water. To +two cupfuls of softened bread, add two beaten eggs, a teaspoonful of +salt, a half cupful of flour, and enough milk to make a thin, smooth +batter; add, the last thing, a teaspoonful of baking-powder, or use soda +if sour milk has been used in the batter.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_363" id="Page_363">[363]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CORNMEAL_PANCAKES_363" id="CORNMEAL_PANCAKES_363"></a>CORNMEAL PANCAKES</h4> + +<p>Pour a little boiling water on a cupful of cornmeal, and let it stand +half an hour. Add a teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of sugar, one +egg and two cupfuls of flour. Add enough milk to make a smooth batter, +and a teaspoonful of baking-powder just before baking. Instead of white +flour rye meal may be used: one cupful of rye to one of cornmeal, a +tablespoonful of molasses instead of the sugar, and soda in place of +baking-powder.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BUCKWHEAT_CAKES_363" id="BUCKWHEAT_CAKES_363"></a>BUCKWHEAT CAKES</h4> + +<p>Scald a cupful of yellow meal in a quart of boiling milk. Add a half +teaspoonful of salt; when cold add a quarter of a compressed yeast-cake, +and enough buckwheat flour to make a soft batter. Beat it well together. +Let it rise over night. In the morning stir in a tablespoonful of +molasses and a teaspoonful of soda. Although the above method is the old +and better way, these cakes can be made in the morning, and +baking-powder used instead of yeast; in which case divide the batter, +and add the baking-powder, one half at a time.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ADIRONDACK_PANCAKES_363" id="ADIRONDACK_PANCAKES_363"></a>ADIRONDACK PANCAKES</h4> + +<p>Bake several pancakes as large as a plate. Butter, and cover them with +maple syrup. Pile them one on another, and cut like a pie.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"> +<p><a name="Footnote_352-1_10" id="Footnote_352-1_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_352-1_10"><span class="label">352-*</span></a> Place the rolls far enough apart in the pan to give +room for them to rise without running together.</p></div> + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_364" id="Page_364">[364]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="Chapter_XVI" id="Chapter_XVI"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter XVI</span><br /> +<br /> +SANDWICHES</h2> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SANDWICHES_AND_CANAPES_364" id="SANDWICHES_AND_CANAPES_364"></a>SANDWICHES AND CANAPÉS</h4> + +<div class="explanations"><p><span class="smcap">Sandwiches</span> are usually the chief reliance for cold lunches, +and are always acceptable if well made and attractively +served. Where they are to be kept some time, as in +traveling, they should be wrapped in oiled or paraffin +paper, for this will keep them perfectly fresh.</p> + +<p>Sandwiches may be made of white, Graham, or brown bread, or of +fresh rolls, and may be filled with any kind of meat, with +fish, with salads, with eggs, with jams, or with chopped nuts.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Shapes_364" id="Shapes_364"></a><b>Shapes.</b></span> They may be cut into any shapes, the square and triangular +ones being the usual forms, but a pleasant variety may be +given by stamping them with a biscuit-cutter into circles, +or by rolling them, and these forms are recommended for +sandwiches made of jams or jellies, as it gives them a more +distinctive character.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="How_to_prepare_the_meat_364" id="How_to_prepare_the_meat_364"></a><b>How to prepare the meat.</b></span> The meat used in sandwiches should be chopped to a fine mince, +seasoned with salt and pepper, mustard, if desired, and +moistened with a little water, stock, cream or milk, or with a +salad dressing, using enough to make the mince spread well. +Fish can be pounded to a paste, then seasoned. Potted meats +can also be used. Slices of anything that has a fibrous +texture make the sandwich difficult to eat, and as knives and +forks are not usually at hand when sandwiches are <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_365" id="Page_365">[365]</a></span>served, it +is desirable to make the primitive way of eating as little +objectionable as possible.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Butter_365" id="Butter_365"></a><b>Butter.</b></span> The butter for sandwiches should be of the best, and should +be soft enough to spread easily without tearing the bread. +The butter may sometimes be worked into the meat paste. What +are called “sandwich butters” are frequently used. They are +made by rubbing the butter to a cream, combined with anchovy +paste, with mustard, with chopped parsley and tarragon, with +pâté de foie gras, etc.</p> + +<p>These butters are used to spread the bread for meat +sandwiches, using with the butter any flavoring that will go +well with the meat.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 418px;"> +<a name="illus-256-f-2" id="illus-256-f-2" href="images/illus-256-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-256-f-2.jpg" width="418" height="197" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">BREAD-AND-BUTTER SANDWICHES.<br /> + +Made of White, Graham, and Boston Brown Bread. (See page <a href="#SANDWICHES_AND_CANAPES_364">364</a>.)</span> +</div> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Rolls_365" id="Rolls_365"></a><b>Rolls.</b></span> When rolls are used for sandwiches, they should be very +fresh, should be small, and have a tender crust. The finger +rolls are good for the purpose, also Parker House rolls, +when made in suitable shape. Graham bread makes excellent +sandwiches.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="How_to_prepare_the_bread_365" id="How_to_prepare_the_bread_365"></a><b>How to prepare the bread.</b></span> Bread for sandwiches should be of fine grain and a day old. A +five-cent loaf cuts to good advantage. The crust should be cut +off, and the loaf trimmed to good shape before the slices are +cut. The crusts and trimmings can be dried for crumbs, so they +are not wasted, and no butter is lost in spreading bread which +will afterward be trimmed off. When the bread is ready, the +butter should be spread on the loaf, and then a slice cut off +evenly one eighth of an inch thick. The next slice will have +to be cut off before being spread, in order to have it fit +exactly the preceding piece. After the first slice is covered +with the filling, lay the second slice on it. In many cases +the second slice of bread does not need spreading with butter. +Cut the sandwich to the desired shape. One cut across the loaf +will make two square, or four triangular, sandwiches.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Meat_sandwiches_365" id="Meat_sandwiches_365"></a><b>Meat sandwiches.</b></span> Poultry, game, ham, beef, and tongue can be prepared as +directed above, or they may be mixed with a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_366" id="Page_366">[366]</a></span> French or a +Mayonnaise dressing. Chicken pounded to a paste, then well +mixed with a paste made of the yolks of hard-boiled eggs +mashed, a little milk or cream, and a little butter, then +seasoned with salt, pepper, and a few drops of onion-juice, +makes a delicious chicken sandwich.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Fish_sandwiches_366" id="Fish_sandwiches_366"></a><b>Fish sandwiches.</b></span> Anchovies, sardines, or any fresh boiled fish may be used +for sandwiches. It is better pounded to a paste. Moisten +sardines with a little lemon-juice.</p> + +<p>Fresh fish should be well seasoned with salt and pepper, and +moistened with a white or any other sauce, or with Mayonnaise. +A little chopped pickle may be added. Shad roe, mashed with a +fork to separate the eggs, and seasoned in the same way, makes +excellent sandwiches.</p></div> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p><span class="smcap">Note.</span>—Sandwiches of any kind which are left over are good +toasted, and can be served at luncheon.—M. R.</p></div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="EGG_SANDWICHES_366" id="EGG_SANDWICHES_366"></a>EGG SANDWICHES</h4> + +<p class="hanging">No. 1. Cut hard-boiled eggs into slices; sprinkle with +salt and pepper plentifully, and spread the bread +with butter mixed with chopped parsley.</p> + +<p class="hanging">No. 2. Lay the sliced eggs between crisp lettuce leaves, +and spread the bread with butter, then with +Mayonnaise.</p> + +<p class="hanging">No. 3. Chop the hard-boiled eggs fine. Mix with Mayonnaise +and spread on the buttered bread, or mix them with +well-seasoned white sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SALAD_SANDWICHES_366" id="SALAD_SANDWICHES_366"></a>SALAD SANDWICHES</h4> + +<p class="hanging">No. 1. Lay a crisp lettuce leaf sprinkled with salt +between buttered thin slices of bread; or spread the +bread with Mayonnaise, then with lettuce or with +water-cress.</p> + +<p class="hanging">No. 2. Chop chicken and celery together fine; mix it with +French or with Mayonnaise dressing.</p> + +<p class="hanging">No. 3. Chop lobster meat; mix it with any dressing; cut +lettuce into ribbons; cover the bread with the +lettuce; then a layer of lobster; then with lettuce +again.</p> + +<p class="hanging">No. 4. Mix chopped olives with Mayonnaise; serve with +afternoon tea.</p> + + + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_367" id="Page_367">[367]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SPANISH_SANDWICHES_367" id="SPANISH_SANDWICHES_367"></a>SPANISH SANDWICHES</h4> + +<p>Spread buttered Graham bread with mustard; then with a layer of cottage +cheese; and then with a layer of chopped olives mixed with Mayonnaise.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHEESE_SANDWICHES_367" id="CHEESE_SANDWICHES_367"></a>CHEESE SANDWICHES</h4> + +<p class="hanging">No. 1. Cut American cheese in slices one-eighth of an inch +thick, or about the same thickness as the bread. +Sprinkle it with salt, and have the bread well +buttered.</p> + +<p class="hanging">No. 2. Cut Gruyère cheese in thin slices. Lay it on the +bread, sprinkle it with salt and pepper; then add +French mustard.</p> + +<p class="hanging">No. 3. Grate any cheese. Rub it to a paste with butter, +and spread the bread; dust with salt and pepper. Cut +into strips and serve with salad.</p> + +<p class="hanging">No. 4. Mock Crab. Rub to a smooth paste one tablespoonful +of butter, two tablespoonfuls of grated cheese, a +saltspoonful each of salt, paprica, and dry mustard, +a little anchovy paste, and a teaspoonful of vinegar. +Spread between thin slices of dry toast.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RAW_BEEF_SANDWICHES_367" id="RAW_BEEF_SANDWICHES_367"></a>RAW BEEF SANDWICHES</h4> + +<p>Scrape the raw beef; spread it between thin slices of plain bread. +Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place the sandwiches on a toaster, and +hold them over the coals until well heated. Serve them hot.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SWEET_SANDWICHES_367" id="SWEET_SANDWICHES_367"></a>SWEET SANDWICHES</h4> + +<p class="hanging">No. 1. For Æsthetic Sandwiches, see chapter “Five O’clock +Tea,” page <a href="#THE_FIVE_OCLOCK_TEA_33">33</a>.</p> + +<p class="hanging">No. 2. Spread thin slices of bread with any jam, or with +fruit jelly, or with any preserved fruit, or with +chopped canned fruit. Cut them into circles, or roll +them as directed above.</p> + +<p class="hanging">No. 3. Spread very thin buttered slices of Boston brown +bread with chopped walnuts, or with chopped almonds, +or with both mixed, or with salted nuts chopped.</p> + + + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_368" id="Page_368">[368]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CANAPES_368" id="CANAPES_368"></a>CANAPÉS</h4> + +<p>Canapés are slices of bread toasted or fried in hot fat, or dipped in +butter, and browned in the oven. The slices are then covered with some +seasoned mixture. They are served hot, and make a good first course for +luncheon. The bread is cut a quarter of an inch thick, then into circles +two and a half inches in diameter, or into strips four inches long and +two inches wide. They are sometimes used cold, and are arranged +fancifully with different-colored meats, pickles, eggs, etc.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHEESE_CANAPES_368" id="CHEESE_CANAPES_368"></a>CHEESE CANAPÉS</h4> + +<p>Cut bread into slices one quarter inch thick, four inches long and two +inches wide. Spread it with butter, and sprinkle it with salt and +cayenne or paprica. Cover the top with grated American cheese, or with +grated Parmesan cheese, and bake in the oven until the cheese is +softened. Serve at once, before the cheese hardens.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="HAM_CANAPES_368" id="HAM_CANAPES_368"></a>HAM CANAPÉS</h4> + +<p>Cut bread into slices a quarter inch thick, then with a small +biscuit-cutter into circles; fry them in hot fat, or sauté them in +butter. Pound some chopped ham to a paste; moisten it with cream or +milk. Spread it on the fried bread; dust with cayenne, sprinkle the top +with grated Parmesan cheese, and place in a hot oven until a little +browned.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ANCHOVY_CANAPES_368" id="ANCHOVY_CANAPES_368"></a>ANCHOVY CANAPÉS</h4> + +<p>Spread strips of fried bread with anchovy paste. Arrange in lines, on +top, alternate rows of the white and yolks of hard-boiled eggs chopped +fine.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SARDINE_CANAPES_368" id="SARDINE_CANAPES_368"></a>SARDINE CANAPÉS</h4> + +<p>Spread circles of fried bread with a layer of sardines pounded to a +paste. Arrange on top, in circles to resemble a rosette, lines of +chopped hard-boiled egg and chopped pickle.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_369" id="Page_369">[369]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CANAPE_LORENZO_369" id="CANAPE_LORENZO_369"></a>CANAPÉ LORENZO</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls of butter.</li> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls of flour.</li> + <li>1 slice of onion.</li> + <li>1 cupful of stock.</li> + <li>1 cupful of crab meat.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of milk.</li> + <li>2½ tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese.</li> + <li>2½ tablespoonfuls of Swiss cheese.</li> + <li>Salt, pepper, and cayenne.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Put in a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter, and fry in it one slice +of onion chopped fine, but do not brown; then add one tablespoonful of +flour and cook, but do not brown; add the stock slowly, and when smooth +add the cooked crab meat. Season highly with salt, pepper, and cayenne, +and let simmer for six or eight minutes.</p> + +<p>Put into another saucepan one tablespoonful of butter; when melted, add +one tablespoonful of flour and cook, but not brown; then add the milk +and stir in the cheese, and let cook just long enough to soften the +cheese. Remove from the fire and let cool; then form the cheese mixture +into six balls. Have ready six slices or circles of buttered toast, or +bread fried in butter, and cover them with a layer of the crab mixture, +and in the center of each piece place a ball of the cheese. Place in a +hot oven for five minutes.</p> + +<p>This is a good supper dish, and may be made of lobster, fish, or +chicken.</p> + +<p>Serve with water-cress.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHEESE_AND_CHEESE_DISHES_369" id="CHEESE_AND_CHEESE_DISHES_369"></a>CHEESE AND CHEESE DISHES</h4> + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Varieties.</b></span> Among the best cheeses are Stilton, Cheshire, Camembert, +Gorgonzola, Rocquefort, Edam, Gruyère, and Parmesan. The +Parmesan is a high-flavored, hard Italian cheese, and is +mostly used grated for cooking. Our American dairy cheeses are +much esteemed, and are largely exported to foreign markets; +but as they have no distinctive names, it is difficult<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_370" id="Page_370">[370]</a></span> to +find a second time any one that is particularly liked. The +Pineapple cheese is the only one that differs radically from +the other so-called American cheeses. The foreign cheeses are, +nearly all of them, very successfully imitated here. Cheese is +served with crackers, wafer biscuits, or with celery after the +dessert, or with salad before the hot dessert. Any of the +cheese dishes, such as soufflé, ramekins, omelets, etc., are +served before the dessert. Cheese straws are used with salad. +<span class="sidenote"><b>Serving.</b></span> Cheeses small enough to be passed whole, like Edam, Pineapple, +etc., have the top cut off, plain or in notches, and are +wrapped in a neatly plaited napkin. The top is replaced after +the service, so as to keep the cheese moist. A Stilton or +Chester cheese is cut in two, and one half, wrapped in a +napkin, served at a time. Rocquefort and Gorgonzola are served +in the large slice cut from the cheese and laid on a folded +napkin. American dairy cheese is cut into small uniform +pieces. The soft cheeses, Brie, Neuchâtel, etc., are divested +of the tinfoil and scraped before being passed. They are +placed on a lace paper. Fresh butter, wafer biscuits, and +celery are passed with cheese.</p></div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHEESE_SOUFFLE_370" id="CHEESE_SOUFFLE_370"></a>CHEESE SOUFFLÉ</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls of butter.</li> + <li>1 heaping tablespoonful of flour.</li> + <li>½ cupful of milk.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>Dash of cayenne.</li> + <li>3 eggs.</li> + <li>1 cupful of grated cheese.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Put into a saucepan the butter; when it is melted stir in the flour and +let it cook a minute (but not color), stirring all the time; add one +half cupful of milk slowly and stir till smooth, then add salt and +cayenne. Remove from the fire and add, stirring constantly, the beaten +yolks of three eggs and the cupful of grated American or Parmesan +cheese. Replace it on the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_371" id="Page_371">[371]</a></span> fire, and stir until the cheese is melted and +the paste smooth and consistent (do not cook too long, or the butter +will separate). Pour the mixture on a buttered dish and set away to +cool. When ready to use, stir into it lightly the well-beaten whites of +the three eggs; turn it into a pudding-dish and bake in a hot oven for +twenty to thirty minutes. Do not open the oven door for ten minutes; do +not slam the oven door; do not move the soufflé until after fifteen +minutes; serve it at once when done. Like any soufflé, it must go +directly from the oven to the table, or it will fall.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CRACKERS_AND_CHEESE_371" id="CRACKERS_AND_CHEESE_371"></a>CRACKERS AND CHEESE</h4> + +<p>Split in two some Bent’s water biscuits; moisten them with hot water and +pour over each piece a little melted butter and French mustard; then +spread with a thick layer of grated cheese; sprinkle with paprica or +cayenne. Place them in a hot oven until the cheese is soft and creamy.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHEESE_CANAPES_371" id="CHEESE_CANAPES_371"></a>CHEESE CANAPÉS</h4> + +<p>Cut bread into slices one half inch thick; stamp them with a biscuit +cutter into circles; then, moving the cutter to one side, cut them into +crescent form; or, if preferred, cut the bread into strips three inches +long and one and one half inches wide; sauté them in a little butter on +both sides to an amber color. Cover them with a thick layer of grated +cheese; sprinkle with salt, pepper, and dash of cayenne. Fifteen minutes +before the time to serve, place them in the oven to soften the cheese. +Serve at once very hot; or, cut some toasted bread into small triangles; +spread with a little French mustard; dip in melted butter; then roll in +grated cheese; sprinkle with salt, pepper, and dash of cayenne, and +place in a hot oven for a few minutes to soften the cheese. Serve at +once on a hot dish.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="WELSH_RABBIT_371" id="WELSH_RABBIT_371"></a>WELSH RABBIT</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 pound of cheese.</li> + <li>½ cupful of ale or beer.</li> + <li>Dash of cayenne.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of dry mustard.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>Slices of toast.</li> +</ul> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_372" id="Page_372">[372]</a></span>Grate or cut into small pieces fresh American cheese. Place it in a +saucepan or chafing-dish with three quarters of the ale. Stir until it +is entirely melted; then season with the mustard, salt, and pepper, and +pour it over the slices of hot toast, cut in triangles or circles. +Everything must be very hot, and it must be served at once, as the +cheese quickly hardens. Some use a scant teaspoonful of butter (more +will not unite), a few drops of onion-juice, and the beaten yolks of two +eggs, added just before serving. The egg makes it a little richer and +prevents the cheese hardening so quickly. Milk may be used instead of +ale to melt the cheese, in which case the egg should also be used. If +any of the cheese fondu is left, it can be heated again with the rest of +the ale for the second helping.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="GOLDEN_BUCK_372" id="GOLDEN_BUCK_372"></a>GOLDEN BUCK</h4> + +<p>Make Welsh rarebits as directed above, and place on each one a poached +egg (see page <a href="#POACHED_EGGS_No_1_263">263</a>).</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHEESE_STRAWS_372" id="CHEESE_STRAWS_372"></a>CHEESE STRAWS</h4> + +<p>Mix with one cupful of flour one half cupful of grated Parmesan cheese, +a dash of cayenne, one half teaspoonful of salt, and the yolk of one +egg; then add enough water to make a paste sufficiently consistent to +roll. Place it on a board and roll to one quarter inch thickness. Cut it +into narrow strips and roll so each piece will be the size and length of +a lead pencil. Place them in a baking-tin and press each end on the pan +so they will not contract. Bake to a light brown in a moderate oven. +Serve with salad. These straws will keep for several days, and should be +heated just before serving.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHEESE_STRAWS_No_2_372" id="CHEESE_STRAWS_No_2_372"></a>CHEESE STRAWS No. 2</h4> + +<p>Take bits of puff paste; roll them to one half inch thickness; cut them +into strips one inch wide and three inches long; sprinkle them with +grated cheese and bake; or, the pastry may be rolled to one quarter inch +thickness; then spread with cheese,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_373" id="Page_373">[373]</a></span> doubled over, and then cut into +strips, leaving the cheese between two layers of paste.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHEESE_PATTIES_373" id="CHEESE_PATTIES_373"></a>CHEESE PATTIES</h4> + +<p>Make some small round croustades as directed (page <a href="#Circles_82">82</a>). Dip them in +butter and toast them in the oven to a delicate color. Fill the centers +with a mixture of two ounces of grated cheese, one half tablespoonful of +butter, one tablespoonful of milk, a little salt and pepper. Place the +croustades again in the oven to melt the cheese. Serve very hot.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COTTAGE_CHEESE_373" id="COTTAGE_CHEESE_373"></a>COTTAGE CHEESE</h4> + +<p>Place a panful of milk which has soured enough to become thick, or +clabbered, over a pan of hot water. Let it heat slowly until the whey +has separated from the curd; do not let it boil, or the curd will become +tough; then strain it through a cloth and press out all the whey; stir +into the curd enough butter, cream, and salt to make it a little moist +and of good flavor. Work it well with a spoon until it becomes fine +grained and consistent, then mold it into balls of any size desired.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe">FONDUE</h4> + +<p>See page <a href="#FONDUE_335">335</a>.</p> + + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_374" id="Page_374">[374]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="Chapter_XVII" id="Chapter_XVII"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter XVII</span><br /> +<br /> +SALADS</h2> + + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Drying_the_salad_374" id="Drying_the_salad_374"></a><b>Drying the salad.</b></span> <span class="smcap">Nearly</span> all the meats, vegetables, and fruits may be served as +salads. The essential thing is to have the salad fresh and +cold; and if green, to have the leaves crisp and dry. If any +water is left on leaves, the dressing will not adhere to them, +but will run to the bottom of the dish, and both the salad and +the dressing will be poor. All greens should be carefully +washed in cold water to free them from dust and insects, and +to make them crisp. After they have stood fifteen to twenty +minutes in cold or ice water, free them from moisture by +swinging them in a wire basket, or dry, without bruising, each +leaf carefully with a napkin. The dressing is added only at +the moment of serving, as the salad wilts if allowed to stand +after the dressing is added. The green salads are the most +simple of any, and are especially worthy the little care +required to make them perfect.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Cutting the meat.</b></span> Meat of any kind used for salads should be cut into dice, but +not smaller than one half inch, or it will seem like hash. It +should be marinated before being mixed with the other parts of +the salad. Meat mixtures are usually piled in cone-shape on a +dish, the Mayonnaise then spread over it, and garnished with +lettuce, capers, hard-boiled eggs, gherkins, etc.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Marinating_374" id="Marinating_374"></a><b>Marinating.</b></span> <span class="smcap">To Marinate.</span>—Take one part of oil and three of vinegar, with +pepper and salt to taste; stir them into the meat, and let it +stand a couple of hours; drain off any of the marinade which +has not been absorbed,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_375" id="Page_375">[375]</a></span> before combining the meat with the +other parts of the salad. Use only enough marinade to season +the meat.</p> + +<p>French dressing is used with green vegetable salads, and +either Mayonnaise or French dressing with potato and tomato +salads.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Fish salads.</b></span> Lettuce, water-cress, fetticus, sorrel, or other leaf salads +are better with French dressing. A boiled fish can be served +whole as a salad for suppers or luncheons, or in hot weather +as a fish course for dinner. It may be covered, all but the +head and tail, with a thick coating of green or red jelly +Mayonnaise (see page <a href="#RED_MAYONNAISE_290">290</a>), and elaborately decorated with +capers, olives, gherkins, hard-boiled eggs, and lettuce. +Salmon, blue fish, bass, or any firm fish, serves this purpose. +Fish may also be cut into cutlets of equal size and shape, +and covered with jelly Mayonnaise garnished in the same way.</p> + +<p>Nasturtium blossoms make a good garnish, and also add a good +flavor to green salads.</p></div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MAYONNAISE_375" id="MAYONNAISE_375"></a>MAYONNAISE</h4> + +<p>The receipts for Mayonnaise are given on pages <a href="#MAYONNAISE_288">288-290</a>. White +Mayonnaise, instead of that having the color of the eggs, is the fancy +of to-day. The yolks will whiten by being stirred before the oil is +added, and lemon-juice, used instead of vinegar, also serves to whiten +the dressing; so it is not always necessary to add whipped cream, +although the cream gives a very delicate and delicious Mayonnaise. The +jelly Mayonnaise is used for molded salads, and will be found very good, +as well as useful, for the class of salads served at suppers, etc.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRENCH_DRESSING_375" id="FRENCH_DRESSING_375"></a>FRENCH DRESSING</h4> + +<p>This dressing is the most simple, and the best one to use with green +salads for dinner. The proportions are one table<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_376" id="Page_376">[376]</a></span>spoonful of vinegar to +three of oil, one half teaspoonful of salt, and one quarter teaspoonful +of pepper. Mix the salt and pepper with the oil; then stir in slowly the +vinegar, and it will become white and a little thickened, like an +emulsion. Some like a dash of paprica or red pepper. When intended for +lettuce salad it is much improved by using a little tarragon vinegar +with the wine vinegar. More oil may be used if preferred, but the +mixture should be so blended as to taste of neither the oil nor the +vinegar.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="LETTUCE_SALAD_376" id="LETTUCE_SALAD_376"></a>LETTUCE SALAD</h4> + +<p>Use only the tender leaves. Let them stand half an hour in cold water to +become crisp. Rub the inside of the salad bowl lightly with an onion. +Wipe the lettuce leaves perfectly dry without bruising them, and arrange +them in the bowl in circles, the heart leaves in the center. Sprinkle +over them a teaspoonful of mixed tarragon, parsley, and chives, chopped +fine; pour over the French dressing, and toss them lightly together. +French lettuce salads always have chopped herbs mixed with them, and +they are a great improvement to the salad. If all of them are not at +hand, any one of them may be used alone. The salad should be put +together only just before being served, or its crispness will be lost. +Nasturtium blossoms, small radishes cut into flowers, or a few white +chicory leaves may be used with plain lettuce salad.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="WATER-CRESS_AND_APPLES_376" id="WATER-CRESS_AND_APPLES_376"></a>WATER-CRESS AND APPLES</h4> + +<p>Prepare the water-cress the same as lettuce, letting it become crisp in +cold water, then drying it thoroughly. Mix it with French dressing. A +few thin slices of sour apple with water-cress makes a good salad to +serve with ducks.</p> + +<p>A chopped hard-boiled egg sprinkled over the top of water-cress is a +good garnish, and improves the salad.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 414px;"> +<a name="illus-376-f-1" id="illus-376-f-1" href="images/illus-376-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-376-f-1.jpg" width="414" height="194" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">SALAD OF WATER-CRESS GARNISHED WITH RADISHES CUT TO +RESEMBLE ROSES.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CELERY_SALAD_376" id="CELERY_SALAD_376"></a>CELERY SALAD</h4> + +<p>Wash and scrape the tender stalks of celery, cut them into one quarter +inch pieces, or into straws two inches long, or cut<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_377" id="Page_377">[377]</a></span> them in pieces +one and a half inches long, and slice them in small strips nearly to the +end; place them in ice-water for a few minutes to curl them. Mix the +celery with either French or Mayonnaise dressing, and garnish with +lettuce leaves or celery tops.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CUCUMBER_AND_TOMATO_SALAD_377" id="CUCUMBER_AND_TOMATO_SALAD_377"></a>CUCUMBER AND TOMATO SALAD</h4> + +<p>Slice cucumbers and tomatoes into pieces of equal thickness, and lay +them alternately around a bunch of white lettuce leaves. Pass separately +either a French or Mayonnaise dressing, or both.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CUCUMBER_SALAD_377" id="CUCUMBER_SALAD_377"></a>CUCUMBER SALAD TO SERVE WITH FISH</h4> + +<p>Peel the cucumbers, and place them in cold water to become crisp. Do not +use salt in the water, as is sometimes recommended, as it wilts and +makes them indigestible. Cut the cucumbers in two lengthwise, and lay +them, with the flat side down, on the dish on which they are to be +served. Slice them without destroying their shape, and pour on them a +French dressing.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 419px;"> +<a name="illus-376-f-2" id="illus-376-f-2" href="images/illus-376-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-376-f-2.jpg" width="419" height="199" alt="CUCUMBERS CUT IN HALVES LENGTHWISE AND THEN SLICED TO +SERVE WITH FISH." title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">CUCUMBERS CUT IN HALVES LENGTHWISE AND THEN SLICED TO +SERVE WITH FISH.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STRING-BEAN_SALAD_377" id="STRING-BEAN_SALAD_377"></a>STRING-BEAN SALAD</h4> + +<p>Cut each bean in four strips lengthwise; lay them evenly together and +boil in salted water until tender. Remove them carefully and drain. When +they are cold and ready to serve, pile them on a flat dish, trim the +ends even, and pour over them slowly a French dressing. Garnish with +parsley, white chicory leaves or nasturtium leaves.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 416px;"> +<a name="illus-376-f-3" id="illus-376-f-3" href="images/illus-376-f-3-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-376-f-3.jpg" width="416" height="193" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">STRING-BEAN SALAD.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BEAN_SALADS_377" id="BEAN_SALADS_377"></a>BEAN SALADS</h4> + +<p>Boiled navy beans, flageolets, or Lima beans may be mixed with French or +Mayonnaise dressing, and garnished with hard-boiled eggs and parsley.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CAULIFLOWER_SALAD_377" id="CAULIFLOWER_SALAD_377"></a>CAULIFLOWER SALAD</h4> + +<p>Break the vegetable into flowerets; season with salt, pepper, and a +little vinegar and oil. Pile them in a pyramid on a dish, and pour over +them a white Mayonnaise. Arrange around the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_378" id="Page_378">[378]</a></span> base a border of carrots or +beets, cut into dice or fancy shapes, to give a line of color. Place a +floweret of cauliflower on the top of the pyramid.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="corr27" id="corr27"></a><a name="MACEDOINE_SALAD_378" id="MACEDOINE_SALAD_378"></a>MACÉDOINE SALAD</h4> + +<p>This salad is composed of a mixture of vegetables. The vegetables are +boiled separately; the large ones are then cut into dice of equal size. +The salad is more attractive when the vegetables are cut with fancy +cutters or with a small potato-scoop. Peas, flageolets, string beans, +flowerets of cauliflower, beets, celery roots, asparagus points, +carrots, and turnips—all, or as many as convenient, may be used. Mix +them lightly with French dressing or with Mayonnaise. If the latter, +marinate them first. Be careful not to break the vegetables when mixing +them. Arrange lettuce leaves like a cup, and place the macédoine in the +center.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="POTATO_SALAD_378" id="POTATO_SALAD_378"></a>POTATO SALAD</h4> + +<p>Boil the potatoes with the skins on; when cold remove the skins and cut +them into slices three eighths inch thick, or into dice three quarters +inch thick, or cut the potatoes into balls with a scoop; sprinkle them +with a little grated onion and parsley, chopped very fine. Turn over +them a French dressing. They will absorb a great deal. Toss them lightly +together, but do not break the potatoes, which are very tender. A +Mayonnaise dressing is also very good with marinated potatoes. A mixture +of beets and potatoes with Mayonnaise is also used. Garnish with +lettuce, chopped yolk of hard-boiled egg and capers. In boiling potatoes +for salad, do not steam them after they are boiled, as they should not +be mealy. New or German potatoes are best for salad.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COLD_SLAW_378" id="COLD_SLAW_378"></a>COLD SLAW</h4> + +<p>Shred a firm cabbage very fine. Mix it with a French dressing, using an +extra quantity of salt, or put into a bowl the yolks of three eggs, one +half cupful of vinegar (if it is very strong di<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_379" id="Page_379">[379]</a></span>lute it with water), one +tablespoonful of butter, one half teaspoonful each of mustard and +pepper, and one teaspoonful each of sugar and salt. Beat them together, +place the bowl in a pan of boiling water, and stir until it becomes a +little thickened. Pour this while hot over the cabbage, and set it away +to cool.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="HOT_SLAW_379" id="HOT_SLAW_379"></a>HOT SLAW</h4> + +<p>Place shredded cabbage in a saucepan with enough salted boiling water to +cover it. Boil it until tender, but not so long as to lose shape; turn +it onto a sieve and drain it well in a warm place. Pour over the drained +cabbage a hot Béarnaise sauce.</p> + +<p>Cabbage salads are good to serve with fried oysters, meat fritters, or +chops.</p> + +<p>The boiled cabbage, cold, may be used with French dressing.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TOMATO_SALADS_379" id="TOMATO_SALADS_379"></a>TOMATO SALADS</h4> + +<p>To remove the skins from tomatoes, place them in a wire-basket, and +plunge them into boiling water for a minute. This is better than letting +them soak in the water, which softens them if left too long.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="Tomato_Salad_No_1_379" id="Tomato_Salad_No_1_379"></a>No. 1.</h4> + +<p>Select tomatoes of the same size and shape; peel, and place them on ice +until ready to use; then cut each one in two and place on each piece a +teaspoonful of Mayonnaise. Dress them on a bed of lettuce leaves; or, +slice the tomatoes without breaking their form, place each one on a leaf +of lettuce, cover the tomato with Mayonnaise, and sprinkle over a little +parsley chopped fine; or scoop out a little of the center from the stem +end and fill it with dressing.</p> + +<p>An attractive salad is made of the small yellow tomatoes which resemble +plums. Remove the skin carefully; let them get thoroughly cold; then +pile them on a dish the same as fruit, garnish with leaves of lettuce, +and pour over them a French dressing.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_380" id="Page_380">[380]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="No_2_STUFFED_TOMATOES_380" id="No_2_STUFFED_TOMATOES_380"></a>No. 2. STUFFED TOMATOES</h4> + +<p>Select round tomatoes of equal size; peel and scoop from the stem end a +part of the center. Place them on ice until ready to serve; then fill +them with celery cut fine and mixed with Mayonnaise. Let it rise above +the top of the tomato. Put a little Mayonnaise on small lettuce leaves, +and place a stuffed tomato on the dressing in the center of each leaf. +Arrange them in a circle on a flat dish. Tomatoes may be stuffed in the +same way with chopped veal, celery and veal or chicken, celery and +sweetbreads, or chopped hard-boiled eggs and shredded lettuce.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 415px;"> +<a name="illus-380-f-1" id="illus-380-f-1" href="images/illus-380-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-380-f-1.jpg" width="415" height="195" alt="TOMATOES STUFFED WITH CELERY AND MAYONNAISE STANDING ON +LETTUCE LEAVES." title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">TOMATOES STUFFED WITH CELERY AND MAYONNAISE STANDING ON +LETTUCE LEAVES.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="No_3_TOMATOES_AND_EGGS_380" id="No_3_TOMATOES_AND_EGGS_380"></a>No. 3. TOMATOES AND EGGS</h4> + +<p>Prepare the tomatoes as above; partly fill them with Mayonnaise, and +press into each one the half of a hard-boiled egg, letting the rounded +top rise a little above the tomato. Serve on lettuce as above.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="No_4_MOLDED_TOMATOES_380" id="No_4_MOLDED_TOMATOES_380"></a>No. 4. MOLDED TOMATOES</h4> + +<p>Select small round tomatoes. Stuff them in any way directed above, but +do not let the filling project beyond the opening. Place individual +molds on ice. Small cups will do; pour in one eighth of an inch of clear +aspic or chicken aspic (see page <a href="#CHICKEN_ASPIC_323">323</a>); when it has set, place in each +one a tomato, the whole side down; add enough jelly to fix the tomato +without floating it. When that has set, add enough more to entirely +cover it (see Fancy Molding, page <a href="#TO_MOLD_JELLY_323">323</a>). Turn each molded tomato onto the +plate on which it is to be served, and arrange around it a wreath of +shredded lettuce. Pass Mayonnaise dressing separately.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="No_5_TOMATO_JELLY_380" id="No_5_TOMATO_JELLY_380"></a>No. 5. TOMATO JELLY</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>½ can or 2 cupfuls of tomatoes.</li> + <li>3 cloves.</li> + <li>1 bay-leaf.</li> + <li>1 slice of onion.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of thyme.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of sugar.</li> + <li>¼ teaspoonful of pepper.</li> + <li>¼ box or ½ ounce of Cooper’s gelatine, soaked in ½ cupful of water.</li> +</ul> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_381" id="Page_381">[381]</a></span>Boil together the tomatoes, spices, and onion until the tomato is soft; +then add the soaked gelatine, and stir until the gelatine is dissolved; +then strain and pour it into a border or ring-shaped mold to set. Serve +with the center of the jelly-ring filled with celery cut into pieces, +into straws, or curled, and mixed with Mayonnaise. Form outside the ring +a wreath of shredded lettuce.</p> + +<p>This jelly may also be molded in a solid piece and surrounded by the +celery. (See illustration opposite page <a href="#illus-384-f-3">384</a>.)</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 422px;"> +<a name="illus-384-f-3" id="illus-384-f-3" href="images/illus-384-f-3-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-384-f-3.jpg" width="422" height="205" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">TOMATO JELLY MOLDED IN RING, THE CENTER FILLED WITH +CURLED CELERY AND MAYONNAISE—LETTUCE CUT INTO RIBBONS AROUND THE +OUTSIDE. (SEE PAGE <a href="#No_5_TOMATO_JELLY_380">381</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CELERY_AND_WALNUT_SALAD_381" id="CELERY_AND_WALNUT_SALAD_381"></a>CELERY AND WALNUT SALAD</h4> + +<p>Mix with the celery, cut into small pieces, one third the quantity of +English walnut meats broken in two, and enough Mayonnaise to well +moisten it. Garnish with lettuce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SWEETBREADS_WITH_CELERY_381" id="SWEETBREADS_WITH_CELERY_381"></a>SWEETBREADS WITH CELERY</h4> + +<p>Cut cold cooked sweetbreads into dice and mix with an equal quantity of +celery. Cover with Mayonnaise and garnish with lettuce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="EGG_SALAD_No_1_381" id="EGG_SALAD_No_1_381"></a>EGG SALAD No. 1</h4> + +<p>Cut hard-boiled eggs (see page <a href="#BOILED_EGGS_262">262</a>) into thick slices or into quarters. +Use a sharp knife so the cuts will be clean. Arrange each portion on a +leaf of lettuce partly covered with Mayonnaise, and arrange the lettuce +in a circle on a flat dish, the stem of the leaf toward the center of +the dish. Place a bunch of nasturtium flowers or a bunch of white +chicory leaves in the middle. (See <a href="#illus-380-f-2">illustration</a>.)</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 416px;"> +<a name="illus-380-f-2" id="illus-380-f-2" href="images/illus-380-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-380-f-2.jpg" width="416" height="196" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">SALAD OF SLICED HARD-BOILED EGGS ARRANGED ON LETTUCE +LEAVES, THE STALK ENDS OF THE LEAVES MEETING IN THE CENTER OF THE DISH.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="EGG_SALAD_No_2_381" id="EGG_SALAD_No_2_381"></a>No. 2</h4> + +<p>Cut hard-boiled eggs in two, making the cut one third from the pointed +end. Remove the yolks without breaking the whites; mash them and mix +with chicken, chopped fine, and enough Mayonnaise to bind them. Fill the +large half of the egg with the mixture, rounding it on top like a whole +yolk. Invert the small pieces of white. Cut the pointed ends of both +pieces flat, and stick them together with raw white of egg. Place the +vase-<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_382" id="Page_382">[382]</a></span>shaped eggs on a flat dish, and fill the spaces with shredded +lettuce. Pass Mayonnaise, as that put in the yolks will not be +sufficient. (See <a href="#illus-380-f-3">illustration</a>.)</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 416px;"> +<a name="illus-380-f-3" id="illus-380-f-3" href="images/illus-380-f-3-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-380-f-3.jpg" width="416" height="197" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">SALAD OF STUFFED EGGS GARNISHED WITH LETTUCE CUT INTO +RIBBONS. (SEE PAGE <a href="#EGG_SALAD_No_2_381">381</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ORANGE_SALAD_382" id="ORANGE_SALAD_382"></a>ORANGE SALAD</h4> + +<p>Use for this salad sour oranges; if these cannot be obtained, strain +over sweet oranges after they are sliced a little lemon-juice. Cut the +oranges in thick slices, remove the seeds carefully, arrange them in +rows, and turn over them a dressing made of one tablespoonful of +lemon-juice to three of oil, with salt, and cayenne, or paprica to +taste. Serve with game.</p> + +<p>Grape fruit may be used the same way, and walnut meats used with either.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHICKEN_SALAD_382" id="CHICKEN_SALAD_382"></a>CHICKEN SALAD</h4> + +<p>Cut cold cooked chicken into dice one half inch square, or into pieces +of any shape, but not too small. Use only the white meat, if very +particular as to appearance, but the dark meat is also good. Veal is +sometimes substituted for chicken. Wash and scrape the tender stalks of +celery. Cut them into small pieces, and dry them well. Use two thirds as +much celery as chicken. Marinate the chicken as directed at the head of +chapter. Keep it in a cold place until ready to serve; then mix with it +the celery, and add lightly a little Mayonnaise. Place the mixture in a +bowl, smooth the top, leaving it high in the center; cover it with +Mayonnaise. Garnish with hard-boiled eggs, the whites and yolks chopped +separately; also with sliced pickle, stoned olives, capers, +lettuce-leaves, celery-tops, etc. Arrange any or all of these in as +fanciful design as desired. Shredded lettuce may be used instead of +celery if more convenient.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="LOBSTER_SALAD_382" id="LOBSTER_SALAD_382"></a>LOBSTER SALAD</h4> + +<p>Cut the boiled lobster into one inch pieces or larger. Marinate it, and +keep in a cool place until ready to serve; then mix with it lightly a +little Mayonnaise. Place it in the salad bowl; smooth the top, leaving +it high in the center. Mask it with a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_383" id="Page_383">[383]</a></span> thick covering of Mayonnaise. +Sprinkle over it the powdered coral of the lobster. Place on top the +heart of a head of lettuce, and around the salad a thick border of crisp +lettuce-leaves, carefully selected.</p> + +<p>Shad roe, canned salmon, or any firm white fish mixed with Mayonnaise, +and garnished with lettuce, may be served as a salad.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="OYSTER_SALAD_383" id="OYSTER_SALAD_383"></a>OYSTER SALAD</h4> + +<p>Scald the oysters in their own liquor until plump and frilled. Drain, +and let them get very cold and dry. If large oysters, cut each one with +a silver knife into four pieces. Just before serving mix them with +Mayonnaise or Tartare sauce, and serve each portion on a leaf of +lettuce. Celery may be mixed with oysters, and served the same way.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BOUILLI_SALAD_383" id="BOUILLI_SALAD_383"></a>BOUILLI SALAD</h4> + +<p>Cut beef that has been boiled for soup into half-inch dice. Marinate it, +using a little grated onion with the marinade. Mix it lightly with some +cold boiled potatoes cut into half-inch dice, and some parsley chopped +fine. Pour over it a French dressing, or Mayonnaise. Garnish with +hard-boiled eggs and lettuce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RUSSIAN_SALAD_383" id="RUSSIAN_SALAD_383"></a>RUSSIAN SALAD</h4> + +<p>Fill the outside of a double mold with clear aspic jelly (see page <a href="#ASPIC_321">321</a>), +and the center with a macédoine of vegetables, or with celery, or with +any one vegetable. Marinate the vegetables; then mix them with +Mayonnaise made with jelly instead of eggs (see page <a href="#JELLY_MAYONNAISE_290">290</a>). Cover the top +with jelly so the vegetables will be completely enclosed (see directions +for double molding, page <a href="#DOUBLE_MOLDS_325">325</a>). Turn the form of salad on a flat dish, +and garnish with shredded lettuce.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 431px;"> +<a name="illus-384-f-1" id="illus-384-f-1" href="images/illus-384-f-1-full.png"><img src="images/illus-384-f-1.png" width="431" height="222" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">RUSSIAN <a name="corr28" id="corr28"></a>MACÉDOINE SALADS WITH ASPIC. PINK AND WHITE +OUTSIDE, CENTER FILLED WITH CELERY, PEAS AND BEANS, MIXED WITH CHICKEN +ASPIC.</span> + +<ul class="illus"> + <li>1. Turnip.</li> + <li>2. Beet.</li> + <li>3. Truffle.</li> + <li>4. Red beets.</li> + <li>5. Slices of hard-boiled egg.</li> + <li>6. Olives.</li> + <li>7. Turnip.</li> + <li>8. Beet.</li> + <li>9. Turnip.</li> +</ul> +</div> + + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="INDIVIDUAL_RUSSIAN_SALADS_383" id="INDIVIDUAL_RUSSIAN_SALADS_383"></a>INDIVIDUAL RUSSIAN SALADS</h4> + +<p>Ornament the bottom of small timbale-molds with carrot cut into fancy +shape in the center, and a row of green peas<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_384" id="Page_384">[384]</a></span> around the edge. Add +enough clear aspic or chicken jelly to fix them, then fill the mold with +jelly; when it has hardened, scoop out carefully with a hot spoon some +of the jelly from the center, and fill the space at once with a +macédoine of vegetables mixed with jelly Mayonnaise as above. Serve each +form on a leaf of lettuce. Pass Mayonnaise separately.</p> + +<p><a name="Note_384" id="Note_384"></a><span class="smcap">Note.</span>—Molds of salad in aspic may be elaborately decorated with rows of +different-colored vegetables, or they may be arranged in layers like the +aspic of pâté.</p> + +<p>Individual salads, when served for suppers, buffet lunches, etc., may be +placed around graduated socles in a pyramid. Decorations of capers and +parsley, also of truffles and tongue, are suitable for Russian salads.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 226px;"> +<a name="illus-384-f-2" id="illus-384-f-2" href="images/illus-384-f-2-full.png"><img src="images/illus-384-f-2.png" width="226" height="120" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">INDIVIDUAL SALADS.</span> + +<ul class="illus"> + <li>1. Pâté de foie gras and aspic jelly in layers. Daisy decoration made + of hard-boiled egg.</li> + <li>2. Russian Salad decorated with green peas or capers.</li> +</ul> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ASPIC_OF_PATE_384" id="ASPIC_OF_PATE_384"></a>ASPIC OF PÂTÉ EN BELLEVUE</h4> + +<p>Ornament the bottom of individual timbale molds with a daisy design made +of hard-boiled egg as directed, page <a href="#DAISY_DESIGN_326">326</a>; fix it with a little jelly; +then add a layer of jelly one quarter inch thick, and a layer of pâté de +foie gras alternately until the mold is full. Any forcemeat may be used +in the same way. Turn the molds onto a flat dish and surround them with +shredded lettuce, or place them on an ornamented socle. Pass Mayonnaise. +(See illustration facing page <a href="#illus-328-f-2">328</a>.)</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 422px;"> +<a name="illus-328-f-2" id="illus-328-f-2" href="images/illus-328-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-328-f-2.jpg" width="422" height="199" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">PÂTÉ DE FOIE GRAS EN BELLEVUE. SLICES OF PÂTÉ ALTERNATING +WITH ASPIC—MOLDED IN INDIVIDUAL TIMBALE MOLDS. FORMS STANDING ON RICE +SOCLE DECORATED WITH TONGUE AND PICKLE—GARNISHED WITH BUNCH OF RED +CARNATIONS.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHICKEN_ASPIC_WITH_WALNUTS_384" id="CHICKEN_ASPIC_WITH_WALNUTS_384"></a>CHICKEN ASPIC WITH WALNUTS</h4> + +<p>Make a clear chicken consommé (see page <a href="#CHICKEN_CONSOMME_100">100</a>). To one and one half +cupfuls of the consommé add one half box of Cox’s gelatine soaked for +one half hour in one half cupful of cold water. Ornament the bottom of a +quart Charlotte mold with a daisy design with leaf, as given page <a href="#DAISY_DESIGN_326">326</a>. +Add a layer of jelly one quarter inch thick, and then fill the outside +of double mold with jelly. (See double molding, page <a href="#DOUBLE_MOLDS_325">325</a>.) Fill the +center with one and a half cupfuls of celery cut rather fine, and one +half cupful of English wal<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_385" id="Page_385">[385]</a></span>nuts, broken to same size as the celery. +Mix them with a dressing made of</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>3 tablespoonfuls of melted chicken jelly.</li> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls of oil.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of vinegar.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar.</li> + <li>¼ teaspoonful of pepper.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Cover the top with jelly, so as to completely enclose the celery +mixture. Turn it onto a flat dish, and place around it a wreath of +shredded lettuce. This is a very delicious salad, and well repays the +trouble of preparation.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="corr29" id="corr29"></a><a name="BIRDS-NEST_SALAD_385" id="BIRDS-NEST_SALAD_385"></a>BIRD’S-NEST SALAD</h4> + +<p>Rub a little green coloring paste into cream cheese, giving it a +delicate color like birds’ eggs. Roll it into balls the size of birds’ +eggs, using the back or smooth side of butter-pats.</p> + +<p>Arrange on a flat dish some small well-crimped lettuce leaves; group +them to look like nests, moisten them with French dressing, and place +five of the cheese balls in each nest of leaves. The cheese balls may be +varied by flecking them with black, white, or red pepper.</p> + +<p>The nests may be made of shredded lettuce if preferred.</p> + + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_386" id="Page_386">[386]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="Chapter_XVIII" id="Chapter_XVIII"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter XVIII</span><br /> +<br /> +<a name="COLD_DESSERTS_386" id="COLD_DESSERTS_386"></a>COLD DESSERTS</h2> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="UTENSILS_386" id="UTENSILS_386"></a>UTENSILS</h4> + +<div class="explanations"><p><span class="smcap">Illustration</span> No. 1, Egg-beaters.—No. 1, Dover beater; Nos. +2 and 3, Wire Whips; No. 4, Daisy beater.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 409px;"> +<a name="illus-386-f-1" id="illus-386-f-1" href="images/illus-386-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-386-f-1.jpg" width="409" height="177" alt="No. 1. EGG WHIPS." title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">No. 1.<br /> +EGG WHIPS.</span> + +<ul class="illus"> + <li>1. Dover Beater.</li> + <li>2. Wire Spoon.</li> + <li>3. Wire Whip.</li> + <li>4. Daisy Beater.</li> +</ul> +</div> + +<p>Illustration No. 2, Jelly Molds.—No. 1, Two Charlotte Russe +molds to use for double molding; No. 2, cylindrical mold for +Charlottes, Bavarians, cornstarch, etc.; Nos. 3 and 4, ring +molds.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 420px;"> +<a name="illus-386-f-2" id="illus-386-f-2" href="images/illus-386-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-386-f-2.jpg" width="420" height="187" alt="No. 2. JELLY MOLDS." title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">No. 2.<br /> +JELLY MOLDS.</span> + +<ul class="illus"> + <li>1. Two Charlotte Molds for double molding.</li> + <li>2. Cylindrical Mold.</li> + <li>3, 4. Ring Molds.</li> +</ul> +</div> + +<p>Illustration No. 3.—No. 1, jelly mold packed in ice ready +to be filled; No. 2, smaller mold to fit inside for double +molding.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 419px;"> +<a name="illus-386-f-3" id="illus-386-f-3" href="images/illus-386-f-3-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-386-f-3.jpg" width="419" height="205" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">No. 3.<br /> +JELLY MOLDS.</span> + +<ul class="illus"> + <li>1. Mold packed in ice for fancy molding.</li> + <li>2. Smaller Mold of same shape to fit into No. 1 for double molding.<br /> +(See page <a href="#DOUBLE_MOLDS_325">325</a>.)</li> +</ul> +</div> + +<p>Illustration No. 4.—Pastry bag and tubes.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 415px;"> +<a name="illus-388-f-1" id="illus-388-f-1" href="images/illus-388-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-388-f-1.jpg" width="415" height="191" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">No. 4.<br /> + +PASTRY BAG AND TUBES.</span> +</div> + +<p>Illustration No. 5.—Paper for filtering fruit juices.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 424px;"> +<a name="illus-388-f-2" id="illus-388-f-2" href="images/illus-388-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-388-f-2.jpg" width="424" height="343" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">No. 5.<br /> + +PAPER FOR FILTERING FRUIT JUICES.</span> +</div> + +<p>Illustration No. 6.—No. 1, lace papers to use under cake, +puddings, jellies, individual creams, bonbons, etc.; also +for timbales; No. 2, paper boxes and china cups to use for +individual soufflés, biscuits, glacé oranges and grapes, +creamed strawberries, and cherries; also for creamed chicken, +and fish, salpicon, etc.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 421px;"> +<a name="illus-392-f-1" id="illus-392-f-1" href="images/illus-392-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-392-f-1.jpg" width="421" height="201" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">No. 6.<br /> + +LACE PAPERS, PAPER BOXES, AND CHINA BOX.</span> +</div> + +<p>The china cups are useful for the latter purposes.</p> + + +<p>The rectangular paper boxes are easily made. For boxes 3¼ x +1¾ inches, cut heavy unruled writing paper into pieces +5¾ x 7¼ inches; fold down an edge two inches wide all +around; fold it back again on itself, giving a border one inch +broad. Cut the corners at the black line, as shown in diagram, +and fold the box together. The ends will fit under the folds, +and hold<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_387" id="Page_387">[387]</a></span> the box in shape. A little more stability may be +given the box by taking a stitch at each corner, and letting +the thread run around the top of the box under the flap.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 183px;"> +<a name="illus-387" id="illus-387" href="images/illus-387-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-387.jpg" width="183" height="117" alt="Drawing showing where to fold the paper" title="" /></a> +</div> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="WEIGHTS_AND_MEASURES_387" id="WEIGHTS_AND_MEASURES_387"></a>WEIGHTS AND MEASURES</h4> + +<table summary="Weights and measures"> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">4 gills</td> + <td>=</td> + <td>1 pint.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">2 pints</td> + <td>=</td> + <td>1 quart.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">4 quarts</td> + <td>=</td> + <td>1 gallon.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">16 ounces</td> + <td>=</td> + <td>1 pound</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">½ kitchen cupful</td> + <td>=</td> + <td>1 gill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">1 kitchen cupful</td> + <td>=</td> + <td>½ pint or 2 gills.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">4 kitchen cupfuls</td> + <td>=</td> + <td>1 quart.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><span class="double" style="float: right;">}</span>2 cupfuls of granulated sugar<br />2½ cupfuls of powdered sugar</td> + <td>=</td> + <td>1 pound.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">1 heaping tablespoonful of sugar</td> + <td>=</td> + <td>1 ounce.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><span class="double" style="float: right;">}</span>1 heaping tablespoonful of butter<br />Butter size of an egg</td> + <td>=</td> + <td>2 oz. or ¼ cupful</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">1 cupful of butter</td> + <td>=</td> + <td>½ pound.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><span class="double" style="float: right;">}</span>4 cupfuls of flour<br />1 heaping quart</td> + <td>=</td> + <td>1 pound.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">8 round tablespoonfuls of dry material</td> + <td>=</td> + <td>1 cupful.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">16 tablespoonfuls of liquid</td> + <td>=</td> + <td>1 cupful.</td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="PROPORTIONS_387" id="PROPORTIONS_387"></a>PROPORTIONS</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>5 to 8 eggs to 1 quart of milk for custards.</li> + <li>3 to 4 eggs to 1 pint of milk for custards.</li> + <li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_388" id="Page_388">[388]</a></span>1 saltspoonful of salt to 1 quart of milk for custards.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of vanilla to one quart of milk for custards.</li> + <li>2 ounces of gelatine to 1¾ quarts of liquid.</li> + <li>4 heaping tablespoonfuls of cornstarch to 1 quart of milk.</li> + <li>3 heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-powder to 1 quart of flour.</li> + <li>1 even teaspoonful of baking-powder to 1 cupful of flour.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of soda to 1 pint of sour milk.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of soda to ½ pint of molasses.</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="MATERIALS_388" id="MATERIALS_388"></a>MATERIALS</h4> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Gelatine_388" id="Gelatine_388"></a><b>Gelatine.</b></span> Cooper’s gelatine costs eight cents a box, holding two +ounces. Unless perfectly transparent jelly, without +clarifying, is required, it serves as well as the more +expensive brands. Cox’s gelatine costs fifteen cents a box, +containing one and one half ounces. It is clear, and needs +only to be strained to make a transparent jelly.</p> + +<p>Isinglass comes in thin sheets, is very clear, and makes a +brilliant jelly. It costs ten cents an ounce, and there are +eight and one half sheets of the white, thirteen sheets of +the red, to an ounce.</p> + +<p>For dissolving and proportions, see page <a href="#Dissolving_412">412</a>.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Chocolate_388" id="Chocolate_388"></a><b>Chocolate.</b></span> Unsweetened chocolate costs about thirty-eight cents a +pound. It is usually divided into squares weighing one ounce +each. Sweetened chocolate costs about fifty cents per pound, +and is usually divided into bars, each weighing a little +less than one and a quarter ounces.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="To_melt_chocolate_388" id="To_melt_chocolate_388"></a><b>To melt chocolate.</b></span> Break the chocolate into pieces, and put them into a dry pan +on the fire, where the heat is moderate. The chocolate melts +quickly, and must be carefully watched, or it will burn. Add +a few spoonfuls of milk to melted chocolate to dissolve it +before adding it to custards.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_389" id="Page_389">[389]</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="To_whip_eggs_389" id="To_whip_eggs_389"></a><b>To whip eggs.</b></span> Do not let a particle of the yolk get into the whites. Add a +little salt, and they will whip more quickly. The “daisy +beater,” with the handle bent, as shown in illustration, is +an excellent one for whipping eggs. Hold it flat, and whip +with an upward motion.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Sweetening_389" id="Sweetening_389"></a><b>Sweetening.</b></span> One tablespoonful of powdered sugar to the white of one egg is +the right proportion for sweetening meringue. Add but one +spoonful of sugar at a time, place it on the side of the dish, +and beat it in gradually from below. This will destroy the +air-cells less, and leave the egg lighter than sprinkling the +sugar over the top.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>To whip cream.</b></span> To whip cream, see page <a href="#WHIPPED_CREAM_408">408</a>.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Milk_389" id="Milk_389"></a><b>Milk.</b></span> Milk is scalded when the water in the outside double kettle +boils.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Raisins_389" id="Raisins_389"></a><b>Raisins.</b></span> Raisins are more easily stoned if soaked a few minutes. Roll +raisins and currants in flour before adding them to cake or +puddings. If added the last thing they will then hold in +place, and not sink to the bottom.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Thickening_389" id="Thickening_389"></a><b>Thickening.</b></span> Use arrowroot to thicken fruit juices. It cooks perfectly clear, +and does not destroy the color or cloud the transparency of +the fruit.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Flavoring_389" id="Flavoring_389"></a><b>Flavoring.</b></span> Where essences or wine flavorings are used they are put in the +last thing, and after the mixture is cooked. For cold desserts +the mixture should be partly or entirely cold before adding +them.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Molding_389" id="Molding_389"></a><b>Molding.</b></span> In molding mixtures be careful that bubbles of air do not +form on the sides of the molds, as they leave holes and +destroy the smoothness and beauty of the form. This can be +prevented by pouring the mixture very slowly into the center +of the tin.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="FLAVORS_389" id="FLAVORS_389"></a>FLAVORS</h4> + +<p>Vanilla has long held first place in American cooking as +flavoring, but is no longer highly esteemed,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_390" id="Page_390">[390]</a></span> and by many it +is considered injurious. The essences of fruits, flowers, +and nuts are preferable. They cost twenty cents per bottle +of two ounces.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Liqueurs_390" id="Liqueurs_390"></a><b>Liqueurs.</b></span> Cordials or liqueurs give by far the most delicate and +pleasant flavor to jellies, creams, and many other desserts. +They are rich syrups of different flavors, and contain only +enough spirits to preserve them. Maraschino has the flavor of +bitter cherry, curaçao of orange-peel, noyau of peach-kernels +or nuts. They cost about $1.50 per bottle, holding nearly a +quart, and last so long a time that the expense of using them +is really not greater, if as much, as for vanilla, which costs +twenty-five cents for two ounces.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Wines_390" id="Wines_390"></a><b>Wines.</b></span> Kirsch, rum, and sherry are also much used in high-class +cooking, and, like the liqueurs, need not be excluded from use +on the score of temperance. The slight flavor they impart to +cooked dishes does not suggest the drink or create a taste for +liquors. Wine augments the flavor of salt, and so the latter +should be used sparingly until after the flavoring is added.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Eau_de_Vie_390" id="Eau_de_Vie_390"></a><b>Eau de Vie de Dantzic.</b></span> Eau de Vie de Dantzic is made of brandy, is highly flavored, +and contains gold-leaf. It is used for jellies, making them +very ornamental. There is seldom enough gold-leaf in it, +however, and more should be added. A book of gold-leaf costs +less than fifty cents.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Vanilla_bean_390" id="Vanilla_bean_390"></a><b>Vanilla bean.</b></span> In French cooking the vanilla bean is generally used instead +of the extract. The bean is split and infused in the liquid. +Half of one bean is sufficient to flavor one quart, but its +use is not always economical, as one bean costs twenty cents. +It is said the Tonquin bean, which is much less expensive, +very closely resembles the vanilla bean in flavor and can be +substituted for it.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Vanilla_powder_390" id="Vanilla_powder_390"></a><b>Vanilla powder.</b></span> Vanilla powder is used for ice-creams.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Vanilla_sugar_390" id="Vanilla_sugar_390"></a><b>Vanilla sugar.</b></span> Vanilla sugar is better than the extract of vanilla for +meringues, whips, etc., where a liquid is not desirable.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_391" id="Page_391">[391]</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Flavoring sugars.</b></span> Flavoring sugars can be made as follows:</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Vanilla_sugar_391" id="Vanilla_sugar_391"></a><b>Vanilla sugar.</b></span> Cut one ounce of dried vanilla beans into pieces and pound +them in a mortar with one half pound of granulated sugar to +a fine powder. Pass it through a fine sieve. Pound again the +coarse pieces that do not go through at first. Keep it in a +well-corked bottle or preserve jar.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Orange_sugar_391" id="Orange_sugar_391"></a><b>Orange sugar.</b></span> Cut from six oranges the thin yellow rind, or zest, taking +none of the white peel. Let it thoroughly dry, then pound +it in a mortar with a cupful of granulated sugar and pass +it through a fine sieve. Keep it in an air-tight jar. One +tablespoonful of this sugar will flavor a quart of custard. +The Mandarin orange makes a good flavor.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Lemon_sugar_391" id="Lemon_sugar_391"></a><b>Lemon sugar.</b></span> Another way is to rub cut loaf-sugar against the peel of an +orange or lemon. As the sugar breaks the oil sacs and absorbs +the zest, scrape it off, dry, and pass it through a fine +sieve.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Rose_sugar_391" id="Rose_sugar_391"></a><b>Rose sugar.</b></span> Make the same as orange sugar, using two cupfuls of dried +rose leaves to one of sugar.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Orange_and_lemon_syrups_391" id="Orange_and_lemon_syrups_391"></a><b>Orange and lemon syrups.</b></span> Orange and lemon syrups are made by pounding the thin yellow +rinds with a little tepid water to a pulp, then adding it to +cold syrup at 32° (see page <a href="#SYRUPS_513">513</a>), and letting it infuse for +an hour or more. Strain and keep in air-tight jars.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Pistachio_flavor_391" id="Pistachio_flavor_391"></a><b>Pistachio flavor.</b></span> Pistachio flavor can be obtained, when it is not convenient to +use the nuts, by first flavoring with orange-flower water, +then adding a very little essence of bitter almond.</p> + +<p><a name="peach_leaf_391" id="peach_leaf_391"></a>A peach leaf, infused with milk when it is scalded for +custard, will give the flavor of noyau.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Caramel_391" id="Caramel_391"></a><b>Caramel.</b></span> Caramel (see page <a href="#CARAMEL_78">78</a>). This gives a very delicate and +agreeable flavor to custards, cream and ices.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Preserved_orange_and_lemon_peel_391" id="Preserved_orange_and_lemon_peel_391"></a><b>Preserved orange and lemon peel.</b></span> Candied orange and lemon peel cut into shreds is good in +custards and cakes. To prepare it, boil the peel in water +until tender, then in sugar and water<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_392" id="Page_392">[392]</a></span> until clear; let it +stand in the syrup several hours, then drain and dry. It +will keep indefinitely in a closed jar.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="COLORING_392" id="COLORING_392"></a>COLORING</h4> + +<p>Vegetable coloring pastes, which are entirely harmless, can be +obtained for twenty-five cents a bottle. The green and the +red, or carmine, are the colors generally used for icings, +creams and jellies. The orange is used for orange-cake icing +and candies. Very little should be used, as the colors should +be delicate. To guard against using too much it is well to +dilute it with a little water and add only a few drops at a +time to the mixture.</p> + +<p>The various shades of red to pink are obtained by using more +or less carmine.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Fruit juices.</b></span> Fruit juices impart both color and flavor. They should be +filtered (see page <a href="#To_clarify_fruit_juices_415">415</a>) before using, or they give a muddy +color.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="GARNISHING_392" id="GARNISHING_392"></a>GARNISHING</h4> + +<p>To decorate cold sweet dishes, use fancy cakes, icings, +fruits either fresh, candied, compote or glacé; jellies +or blanc-mange molded, or made into a layer and then cut +into fancy shapes. Spun sugar (see page <a href="#SPUN_SUGAR_515">515</a>) makes a fine +decoration, and can be formed into nests, wreaths, balls, or +simply spread irregularly over a dish.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Candied_California_fruits_392" id="Candied_California_fruits_392"></a><b>Candied California fruits.</b></span> The candied California fruits are very useful and beautiful +for both cold and hot desserts. They cost sixty to eighty +cents a pound, and are not expensive, as but little is used at +a time, and they keep indefinitely in closed jars. Cherries +are used whole, the other fruits are cut into pieces.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Angelica_392" id="Angelica_392"></a><b>Angelica.</b></span> Angelica is also very effective for decoration. A piece +costing twenty cents will go a long way. It is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_393" id="Page_393">[393]</a></span> cut into +thin strips and then into diamond-shaped or triangular +pieces, and used to simulate leaves. The combination of +cherries and angelica is especially pretty.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Currants_393" id="Currants_393"></a><b>Currants.</b></span> A mold sprinkled with currants makes a good garnish for hot +or cold puddings.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Raisins and almonds.</b></span> Raisins and almonds also make an effective garnish for +either hot or cold desserts.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Nuts.</b></span> Almonds, pistachio nuts, filberts, English walnuts and +chestnuts are employed in many ways, as see receipts.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Fresh_flowers_393" id="Fresh_flowers_393"></a><b>Fresh flowers.</b></span> Fresh flowers and green leaves may be used with good effect +on many cold dishes. Pink roses lend themselves particularly +to this purpose. Violets, pansies, geraniums, sweet-peas and +others are often appropriate. Nasturtiums with salad are +good for both decoration and flavor. (See opposite pages +<a href="#illus-328-f-2">328</a>, <a href="#illus-410-f-3">410</a>, <a href="#illus-492-f-2">492</a>.)</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Colored_sugars_393" id="Colored_sugars_393"></a><b>Colored sugars.</b></span> Colored sugars and small candies called “hundreds and +thousands” are used to sprinkle over icings, méringues, +creams and whips. <a name="To_color_sugar_393" id="To_color_sugar_393"></a>To color sugar sift coarse granulated +sugar, spread the coarse grains on stiff paper, and drop on +it a few drops of coloring fluid. Roll it under the hand +until evenly tinted, then leave to dry on the paper. Keep in +corked bottles.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Sauces_393" id="Sauces_393"></a><b>Sauces.</b></span> Sauces for cold sweet dishes are custards, whipped cream, +canned or preserved fruit, fresh fruit juices, or purées. The +purées are crushed fruit sweetened to taste (with syrup at 30° +if convenient). They are improved with a little flavoring of +Maraschino, kirsch, curaçao, or with orange or lemon juice. +Peach is improved in appearance if slightly colored with +carmine.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Canned_fruits_393" id="Canned_fruits_393"></a><b>Canned fruits.</b></span> Canned fruits are now very inexpensive, and many of them are +fresh in taste as well as appearance. They are useful in a +variety of desserts, and often suit the purpose as well as +fresh fruits.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_394" id="Page_394">[394]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="section"><a name="THE_STORE-CLOSET_394" id="THE_STORE-CLOSET_394"></a>THE STORE-CLOSET</h4> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Garnishing and flavoring.</b></span> The various articles needed for garnishing, flavoring, etc., +should be kept in glass preserve jars, and labeled. The +store-closet, once furnished with the requisites for fancy +dishes, will tempt the ordinary cook to a higher class of +work, and contribute to the desirable end of presenting +dishes that please both sight and taste, and so raise the +standard of every-day cooking. It is very easy to garnish a +dish or decorate a mold, and the habit once formed will lead +to more ambitious attempts.</p></div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CUSTARDS_394" id="CUSTARDS_394"></a>CUSTARDS</h4> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe"><a name="BOILED_CUSTARD_NO_1_394" id="BOILED_CUSTARD_NO_1_394"></a>BOILED CUSTARD NO. 1</h5> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>2 cupfuls, or one pint, of milk.</li> + <li>Yolks of 3 eggs.</li> + <li>½ saltspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of vanilla.</li> + <li>3 tablespoonfuls of sugar.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Boiled custard is the basis of many puddings, ice-creams and sauces. It +requires care to get it just right, for the cooking must be arrested at +the right point; a moment too soon leaves it too thin, a moment too long +curdles and spoils it. It should have the consistency of thick cream, +and be perfectly smooth. It is safer to make it in a double boiler. +Bring the milk to the scalding-point without boiling; then take from the +fire, and pour it slowly into the eggs and sugar, which have been beaten +together to a cream; stir all the time; replace on the fire, and stir +until the custard coats the spoon, or a smooth creamy consistency is +attained; then immediately strain it into a cold dish, and add the +flavoring. If vanilla bean, peach leaves, or lemon zest are used for +flavoring, they can be boiled with the milk. If by accident the custard +begins to grain, arrest the cooking at once by putting the saucepan in +cold water; add a little cold milk, and beat it vigorously with a Dover +beater. Five egg yolks to a quart of milk will make a good boiled +custard, but six or eight<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_395" id="Page_395">[395]</a></span> make it richer. It is smoother when the yolks +only are used, yet the whole egg makes a good custard, and in the +emergency of not having enough eggs at hand a little corn-starch may be +used.</p> + +<p>Boiled custard may be flavored with vanilla, almond, rose, maraschino, +noyau, caramel, coffee, chopped almonds, grated cocoanut, or pounded +macaroons. The cocoanut makes a delicious custard, but must be rich with +eggs and stiff enough to keep the cocoanut from settling to the bottom.</p> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe"><a name="BOILED_CUSTARD_NO_2_395" id="BOILED_CUSTARD_NO_2_395"></a>BOILED CUSTARD NO. 2.</h5> + +<p>Make a boiled custard (see preceding <a href="#BOILED_CUSTARD_NO_1_394">receipt</a>), using a pint of milk, +three egg yolks, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, dash of salt, and any +flavoring preferred. Let it get entirely cold; just before serving mix +in lightly the whites of three eggs beaten to a stiff froth. This will +give a sponge-like texture, and make a very delicate custard. As the +whites are not cooked it will not keep long after they are added. +Ornament the top with bits of jelly on small pieces of the whipped egg.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FLOATING_ISLAND_395" id="FLOATING_ISLAND_395"></a>FLOATING ISLAND</h4> + +<p>Whip the whites of two or three eggs very stiff; add a tablespoonful of +powdered sugar (see page <a href="#Sweetening_389">389</a>) to each egg; flavor with essence of +almond, and add a few chopped almonds. Turn it into an oiled +pudding-mold which has a fancy top; cover and place it in a saucepan of +boiling water to poach for twenty minutes. Leave enough room in the mold +for the meringue to swell. Let it stand in the mold until cold; it will +contract and leave the sides. When ready to serve, unmold the meringue +and place it on boiled custard served in a glass dish.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 421px;"> +<a name="illus-392-f-2" id="illus-392-f-2" href="images/illus-392-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-392-f-2.jpg" width="421" height="202" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">FLOATING ISLAND. (SEE PAGE <a href="#FLOATING_ISLAND_395">395</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHOCOLATE_CUSTARD_395" id="CHOCOLATE_CUSTARD_395"></a>CHOCOLATE CUSTARD</h4> + +<p>Make a boiled custard No. 1, using the whites as well as the yolks of +the eggs; add one bar of melted chocolate (see page <a href="#To_melt_chocolate_388">388</a>). Mix thoroughly +and strain into cups.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_396" id="Page_396">[396]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BAKED_CUSTARD_396" id="BAKED_CUSTARD_396"></a>BAKED CUSTARD</h4> + +<p>Use the same proportions as for boiled custard. Beat the eggs, sugar, +and salt together to a cream; stir in the scalded milk; turn into a +pudding-dish or into cups; grate a little nutmeg over the top; stand it +in a pan of hot water, and bake in a moderate oven until firm in the +center. Test by running a knife into the custard. If it comes out clean, +it is done; if milky, it needs longer cooking; but it must be carefully +watched, for it will separate if cooked too long.</p> + +<p>A custard, to be smooth and solid, must be baked very slowly. The holes +often seen in baked custard are caused by escaping bubbles of steam, +which rise through the mixture when the heat reaches the boiling-point.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CARAMEL_CUSTARD_396" id="CARAMEL_CUSTARD_396"></a>CARAMEL CUSTARD</h4> + +<p>Put a cupful of granulated sugar into a small saucepan with a +tablespoonful of water; stir until melted; then let it cook until a +light brown color (see caramel, page <a href="#CARAMEL_78">78</a>). Turn one half the caramel into +a well-buttered mold which has straight sides and flat top, and let it +get cold. Into the rest of the caramel turn a half cupful of hot water, +and let it stand on the side of the range until the caramel is +dissolved. This is for the sauce.</p> + +<p>Stir four yolks and two whole eggs, with three tablespoonfuls of sugar, +and one half saltspoonful of salt, to a cream, but do not let it froth; +add a pint of scalded milk and a half teaspoonful of vanilla. Strain +this into the mold onto the cold hardened caramel. Place the mold in a +pan of hot water, and bake in a very moderate oven until firm in the +center; test by running in a knife (see <a href="#BAKED_CUSTARD_396">baked custard</a>), and watch it +carefully. The water in the pan must not boil, and the oven should be so +slow that it will take at least an hour to cook the custard. It will +then be very firm and smooth. Unmold the custard when ready to serve. It +will have a glaze of caramel over the top, and some will run down the +sides. Serve the caramel sauce in another dish. This dish is +recommended.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_397" id="Page_397">[397]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHOCOLATE_CREAM_CUSTARD_397" id="CHOCOLATE_CREAM_CUSTARD_397"></a>CHOCOLATE CREAM CUSTARD</h4> + +<p>Use the same proportions as for caramel custard. Add one and one half +ounces of melted chocolate (see page <a href="#To_melt_chocolate_388">388</a>). Strain it into a buttered +mold, and bake slowly the same as caramel custard. Unmold when cold, and +serve with or without whipped cream.</p> + +<p>Both the caramel and the chocolate cream custards may be baked in +individual timbale-molds, if preferred.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RENNET_CUSTARD_397" id="RENNET_CUSTARD_397"></a>RENNET CUSTARD</h4> + +<p>Sweeten and flavor the milk; heat it until lukewarm; then turn it into +the glass dish in which it is to be served. Add to each quart of milk a +tablespoonful of liquid rennet (which comes prepared for custards), and +mix it thoroughly. Let it stand where it will remain lukewarm until a +firm curd is formed; then remove carefully to a cold place. If jarred +the whey is likely to separate. Brandy or rum make the best flavoring +for this custard, but any flavoring may be used. It may be served +without sauce, but a whipped cream, colored pink, improves it, and also +takes away the suggestion of soured milk which curds give.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CORN-STARCH_PUDDINGS_397" id="CORN-STARCH_PUDDINGS_397"></a>CORN-STARCH PUDDINGS</h4> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe"><a name="corr30" id="corr30"></a><a name="NO_1_PLAIN_CORN-STARCH_PUDDING_397" id="NO_1_PLAIN_CORN-STARCH_PUDDING_397"></a>(NO. 1.) A PLAIN CORN-STARCH PUDDING</h5> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 pint of milk.</li> + <li>2 heaping tablespoonfuls</li> + <li>of corn-starch.</li> + <li>3 tablespoonfuls of sugar.</li> + <li>Whites of 3 eggs.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of vanilla.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Beat the eggs to a stiff froth. Dissolve the corn-starch in a little of +the cold milk. Stir the sugar into the rest of the milk, and place it on +the fire. When it begins to boil, add the dissolved corn-starch. Stir +constantly for a few moments. When it becomes well thickened, stir in +the beaten whites of the eggs, and let it remain a little longer to cook +the eggs. Remove from the fire; flavor with vanilla, and turn it into a +mold.<a name="FNanchor_397-1_11" id="FNanchor_397-1_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_397-1_11" class="fnanchor">397-*</a></p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_398" id="Page_398">[398]</a></span>This pudding is quickly and easily made. It gives about a quart of +pudding, or enough to serve six to eight persons. It may or may not be +served with a custard made of the yolks of the eggs, but it requires a +good sauce and flavoring, or it is rather tasteless. Several variations +of this receipt are given below.</p> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe"><a name="NO_2_CORN-STARCH_WITH_CANNED_FRUIT_398" id="NO_2_CORN-STARCH_WITH_CANNED_FRUIT_398"></a>(NO. 2.) CORN-STARCH WITH CANNED FRUIT</h5> + +<p>When the corn-starch is sufficiently set to hold the fruit in place, +stir into it lightly one half can of well-drained fruit (cherries, +raspberries, strawberries, or any other fruit), and turn it into a mold +to harden. Serve the juice of the fruit with it as a sauce.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 421px;"> +<a name="illus-396-f-2" id="illus-396-f-2" href="images/illus-396-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-396-f-2.jpg" width="421" height="205" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">CORNSTARCH PUDDING MOLDED IN RING MOLD WITH WHITE +CALIFORNIA CANNED CHERRIES AND CENTER FILLED WITH CHERRIES.</span> +</div> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe"><a name="NO_3_COCOANUT_PUDDING_398" id="NO_3_COCOANUT_PUDDING_398"></a>(NO. 3.) COCOANUT PUDDING</h5> + +<p>When the corn-starch is removed from the fire, and partly cooled, add +half a cocoanut grated. Mix it well together and turn into a mold; serve +with a custard or, better, with whipped cream. Sprinkle sugar over the +half of the grated cocoanut not used, and spread it on a sieve to dry. +It will keep for some time when dried.</p> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe"><a name="NO_4_CHOCOLATE_PUDDING_398" id="NO_4_CHOCOLATE_PUDDING_398"></a>(NO. 4.) CHOCOLATE PUDDING</h5> + +<p>When the corn-starch is taken from the fire and flavored, turn one third +of it into a saucepan, and mix with it one and a half ounces or squares +of chocolate melted, a tablespoonful of sugar if unsweetened chocolate +is used, and a half cupful of stoned raisins. Let it cook one minute to +set the chocolate. Turn into a plain cylindrical mold one half of the +white corn-starch. Make it a smooth, even layer, keeping the edges +clean; then add the chocolate; smooth it in the same way; then add the +rest of the white corn-starch, making three even layers, alternating in +color; after each layer is in wipe the sides of the mold so no speck of +one color will deface the other. (See <a href="#illus-396-f-1">illustration</a>.)</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 418px;"> +<a name="illus-396-f-1" id="illus-396-f-1" href="images/illus-396-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-396-f-1.jpg" width="418" height="200" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">CORNSTARCH PUDDING IN LAYERS. (SEE PAGE <a href="#NO_2_CORN-STARCH_WITH_CANNED_FRUIT_398">398</a>.)</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 420px;"> +<a name="illus-402-f-1" id="illus-402-f-1" href="images/illus-402-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-402-f-1.jpg" width="420" height="196" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">CORNSTARCH PUDDING WITH PANSIES MOLDED IN A LAYER OF +JELLY ON TOP—GARNISHED WITH PANSIES.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CORN-STARCH_CHOCOLATES_398" id="CORN-STARCH_CHOCOLATES_398"></a>CORN-STARCH CHOCOLATES</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(VERY SIMPLE, AND QUICKLY MADE)</p> + +<p>Scald a pint of milk and four tablespoonfuls of sugar; add an ounce of +chocolate shaved thin, so it will dissolve quickly; then<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_399" id="Page_399">[399]</a></span> add two +heaping tablespoonfuls of corn-starch which has been diluted with a +little of the cold milk. Stir over the fire until the mixture is +thickened, add a half teaspoonful of vanilla, and turn it into small +cups to cool and harden. Unmold the forms when ready to serve, and use +sweetened milk for a sauce. By using a little less corn-starch, this +mixture will be a smooth, thick custard, and may be served in the cups.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BLANC-MANGE_399" id="BLANC-MANGE_399"></a>BLANC-MANGE, OR WHITE JELLY</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>½ box, or 1 ounce, of gelatine.</li> + <li>3½ cupfuls of milk.</li> + <li>¾ cupful of sugar.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of vanilla, or other flavor.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Scald three cupfuls of milk with the sugar; then add and dissolve in it +the gelatine, which has soaked for one half hour in a half cupful of +milk. Remove from the fire, add the flavoring, and strain into a mold. +Blanc-mange may be flavored with any of the liqueurs, and it may have +incorporated with it, when stiffened enough to hold them suspended, +chopped nuts or fruits, or raisins, currants, and citron.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PLUM_PUDDING_JELLY_399" id="PLUM_PUDDING_JELLY_399"></a>PLUM PUDDING JELLY</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>½ box, or 1 ounce, of gelatine soaked ½ hour in 1 cupful of cold water.</li> + <li>1½ ounces of chocolate.</li> + <li>1 cupful of sugar.</li> + <li>1 pint of milk.</li> + <li>1 cupful of raisins stoned.</li> + <li>½ cupful of currants.</li> + <li>¼ cupful of sliced citron.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Dissolve the sugar in the milk, and put it in a double boiler to scald. +Melt the chocolate on a dry pan; then add a few spoonfuls of the milk to +make it smooth, and add it to the scalded milk. Remove from the fire, +and add the soaked gelatine. Stir until the gelatine is dissolved; then +strain it into a bowl. When it begins to set, or is firm enough to hold +the fruit in place, stir in the fruit, which must have stood in warm +water a little while to soften. Flavor with one half teaspoonful of +vanilla, or a few drops of lemon. Turn it into a mold to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_400" id="Page_400">[400]</a></span> harden. Serve +with it whipped cream, or a sauce made of the whipped white of one egg, +one tablespoonful of powdered sugar, a cupful of milk, and a few drops +of vanilla.</p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="BAVARIAN_CREAMS_400" id="BAVARIAN_CREAMS_400"></a>BAVARIAN CREAMS</h3> + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>General remarks about.</b></span> <span class="smcap">Bavarian creams</span> are very wholesome, light, and delicious +desserts. They are easily made, and are inexpensive, as one +pint of cream is sufficient to make a quart and a half of +bavarian. They are subject to so many variations that they +may be often presented without seeming to be the same dish. +Bavarian creams may be used for Charlotte Russe.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">General Rules.</span>—Have the cream cold; then whipped, and +drained (see <a href="#WHIPPED_CREAM_408">whipping cream</a>), and do not add the whipped +cream to the gelatine mixture until the latter is beginning +to set.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>How to make.</b></span> Have the gelatine soaked in cold water one hour. It will +then quickly dissolve in the hot custard.</p> + +<p>Do not boil the gelatine.</p></div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PLAIN_BAVARIAN_CREAM_400" id="PLAIN_BAVARIAN_CREAM_400"></a>PLAIN BAVARIAN CREAM</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 pint of cream whipped.</li> + <li>1 pint of cream or milk.</li> + <li>½ cupful of sugar.</li> + <li>Yolks of 4 eggs.</li> + <li>½ saltspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>½ box, or 1 ounce, of gelatine soaked in one half cupful of water.</li> + <li>½ vanilla bean, or 1 teaspoonful of vanilla extract.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Whip one pint of cream, and stand it aside to drain. Scald one pint of +cream or milk with the vanilla bean split in two; remove it from the +fire, and turn it slowly, stirring all the time, on the yolks, which +have been beaten with the sugar and salt to a cream. Return it to the +fire a moment to set the egg, but take it off the moment it begins to +thicken. Add the soaked gelatine and flavoring (if the bean has not been +used). Stir until the gelatine has dissolved, then pass it through a +sieve.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_401" id="Page_401">[401]</a></span> When it is cold, and beginning to set, whip it a few minutes +with a Dover beater and then mix in lightly the whipped cream, and turn +it into a mold to harden. Avoid using any of the cream which has +returned to liquid. This cream should have a spongy texture.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHOCOLATE_BAVARIAN_401" id="CHOCOLATE_BAVARIAN_401"></a>CHOCOLATE BAVARIAN</h4> + +<p>Use the receipt given above for plain Bavarian. Melt two ounces of +chocolate, and dissolve it in a little milk; add this to the custard +mixture before the gelatine.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ITALIAN_CREAM_401" id="ITALIAN_CREAM_401"></a>ITALIAN CREAM, OR BAVARIAN WITHOUT CREAM</h4> + +<p>Make a custard of one pint of milk, the yolks of three eggs, and three +tablespoonfuls of sugar; add a dash of salt. When it is cooked enough to +coat the spoon, add an ounce of gelatine, which has soaked for half an +hour in some of the cold milk. As soon as the gelatine is dissolved, +remove from the fire, and when it begins to stiffen fold in carefully +the whites of three eggs whipped to a stiff froth, and turn it into a +mold to set.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRUIT_BAVARIAN_401" id="FRUIT_BAVARIAN_401"></a>FRUIT BAVARIAN</h4> + +<p>Mash and press through a colander any fresh or canned fruit. If berries +are used, press them through a sieve to extract the seeds. Sweeten to +taste, and flavor with a little orange and lemon-juice, curaçao, or +maraschino. To a pint of fruit juice or pulp add a half box or one ounce +of gelatine, which has soaked an hour in one half cupful of cold water, +and then been dissolved in one half cupful of hot water. Stir the fruit +and gelatine on ice until it begins to set, otherwise the fruit will +settle to the bottom. Then stir in lightly a pint of cream whipped and +well-drained, and turn it into a mold to harden. Strawberries, +raspberries, pineapple, peaches, and apricots are the fruits generally +used. With fruits it is better to use a porcelain mold if possible, as +tin discolors. If a tin one is used, coat it with jelly as directed on +page <a href="#TO_MOLD_JELLY_323">323</a>, using a little of the dissolved gelatine (sweetened and +flavored) prepared for the fruit.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_402" id="Page_402">[402]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RICE_BAVARIAN_402" id="RICE_BAVARIAN_402"></a>RICE BAVARIAN, OR RIZ À L’IMPÉRATRICE</h4> + +<p>Put into a double boiler one and one half pints of milk and a few thin +cuts of lemon-zest; when it boils stir in one half cupful of well-washed +rice and a saltspoonful of salt. Cook until the rice is perfectly +tender. The milk should be nearly boiled away, leaving the rice very +moist. Then add or mix in carefully a half cupful of sugar and a quarter +of a box, or one half ounce, of gelatine, which has soaked in half a +cupful of cold water for one hour, and then melted by placing the cup +containing it in hot water for a few minutes. When the mixture is partly +cold add three tablespoonfuls each of maraschino and of sherry, or of +sherry alone, or of any other flavoring. When it is beginning to set, +stir in lightly one half pint or more of well-whipped cream, and turn it +into a mold. This is a very white dish, and is a delicious dessert. It +may be served alone, or with orange jelly cut into croûtons, or with +orange compote (see page <a href="#COMPOTE_OF_ORANGES_536">536</a>), or with plain or whipped cream.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BAVARIAN_PANACHEE_402" id="BAVARIAN_PANACHEE_402"></a>BAVARIAN PANACHÉE</h4> + +<p>Make a plain Bavarian; flavor with vanilla; divide it into three parts +before the cream is added. Into one third stir one ounce of melted +chocolate. Into another third mix two tablespoonfuls of pistachio nuts +chopped fine, and color it green (see page <a href="#COLORING_392">392</a>). Arrange the three parts +in layers in a mold, beginning with the white, and stir into each one, +after it has begun to set, and just before putting it into the mold, a +third of the whipped cream. By keeping it in a warm place the Bavarian +will not set before it is wanted, and it can then be made to set quickly +by placing it on ice.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BAVARIAN_EN_SURPRISE_402" id="BAVARIAN_EN_SURPRISE_402"></a>BAVARIAN EN SURPRISE</h4> + +<p>Line a mold with chocolate Bavarian one inch thick. Fill the center with +vanilla Bavarian mixed with chopped nuts, or line the mold with vanilla +Bavarian, and fill with fruit Bavarian (see double molding, page <a href="#DOUBLE_MOLDS_325">325</a>).</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_403" id="Page_403">[403]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="DIPLOMATIC_PUDDING_403" id="DIPLOMATIC_PUDDING_403"></a>DIPLOMATIC PUDDING</h4> + +<p>This is molded in a double mold, and made of very clear lemon, orange, +or wine jelly for the outside, and a Bavarian cream for the inside. With +candied fruits make a design on the bottom of the larger mold (see +molding, page <a href="#DOUBLE_MOLDS_325">325</a>); fix it with a very little jelly, then add enough +more to make a half or three quarter inch layer of jelly. When it is set +put in the center mold. Make a layer of fruit and a layer of jelly +alternately until the outside space is filled, using fruits of different +colors for the different layers or stripes. When it is set, remove the +small mold, and fill the space with Bavarian, using a flavor that goes +well with the one used in the jelly—maraschino with orange; sherry, +noyau, or almond with lemon.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="DIPLOMATIC_BAVARIAN_403" id="DIPLOMATIC_BAVARIAN_403"></a>DIPLOMATIC BAVARIAN</h4> + +<p>Take six lady-fingers; open, and spread them with apricot, or with peach +jam. Place them together again like a sandwich. Moisten them with +maraschino, and cut them in one inch lengths. Boil until softened a half +cupful of stoned raisins and a half cupful of currants; drain them, and +moisten them with maraschino. Make a plain Bavarian flavored with +kirsch. When it is beginning to set and ready to go into the mold, mix +it lightly with the cake and fruit, and turn into a mold to harden.</p> + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="CHARLOTTE_RUSSE_403" id="CHARLOTTE_RUSSE_403"></a>CHARLOTTE RUSSE</h3> + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Forms.</b></span> Charlotte Russe is simply a cream mixture, molded, with cake +on the outside. It is easily made and always liked. Charlotte +pans are oval, but any plain, round mold, or a kitchen basin +with sides not too slanting, or individual molds may be used.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>General directions.</b></span> First place on the bottom of the pan an oiled paper which is +cut to fit it neatly; then arrange lady-fingers evenly around +the sides, or instead of lady-fingers use strips of layer +sponge cake, No. 1 (page <a href="#SPONGE-CAKE_No_1_466">466</a>), or of Genoese (page <a href="#GENOESE_CAKE_467">467</a>). Cut +the strips one or one and a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_404" id="Page_404">[404]</a></span> half inches wide, and fit them +closely together. Fill the center with any of the mixtures +given below, and let it stand an hour or more to harden.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 419px;"> +<a name="illus-402-f-2" id="illus-402-f-2" href="images/illus-402-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-402-f-2.jpg" width="419" height="197" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">CHARLOTTE RUSSE MADE WITH LADY FINGERS.</span> +</div> + +<p>A sheet of cake cut to fit the top may, or may not, be used. +If cake is used it is better to place it on the Charlotte +after it is unmolded and the paper removed. The layer cake +should be one quarter or three eighths of an inch thick only. +<span class="sidenote"><b>Ornamentation.</b></span> Charlottes can be ornamented in many ways, and made very +elaborate if desired. <span class="sidenote"><b><br />Cake in two colors.</b></span> A simple decoration is obtained by +having the strips of cake in two colors, alternating the +upper, or browned, with the under, or white, side of the cake. +For the top, cut a piece of cake to the right shape. Then cut +it transversely, making even, triangular pieces, with the +width at the base the same as the side strips. Turn over each +alternate piece to give the two colors (see <a href="#illus-402-f-3">illustration</a>); or, +ice the strips and the top piece of cake with royal icing (see +<a href="#illus-406-f-1">illustration</a>) in two colors. <span class="sidenote"><b>Icing in two colors.</b></span> Let the icing harden before +placing it in the mold. Have the sides, as well as the bottom, +of the mold lined with paper. Arrange the strips in the mold +with the colors alternating. Instead of using cake for the +top, some of the filling mixture can be put into a pastry-bag, +and pressed through a tube over the top in fancy forms. +<span class="sidenote"><b>Decorating the top.</b></span> Meringue or whipped cream may also be used for decorating the +top.</p></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 421px;"> +<a name="illus-402-f-3" id="illus-402-f-3" href="images/illus-402-f-3-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-402-f-3.jpg" width="421" height="197" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">CHARLOTTE RUSSE WITH CAKE ARRANGED IN STRIPS OF TWO +COLORS. (SEE PAGE <a href="#CHARLOTTE_RUSSE_FILLING_No_1_404">404</a>.)</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 421px;"> +<a name="illus-406-f-1" id="illus-406-f-1" href="images/illus-406-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-406-f-1.jpg" width="421" height="197" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">CHARLOTTE RUSSE WITH STRIPS OF CAKE ICED IN TWO COLORS. +(SEE PAGE <a href="#CHARLOTTE_RUSSE_FILLING_No_1_404">404</a>.)</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 419px;"> +<a name="illus-406-f-2" id="illus-406-f-2" href="images/illus-406-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-406-f-2.jpg" width="419" height="200" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">CHARLOTTE RUSSE MADE OF ONE LAYER OF CAKE—TOP DECORATED +WITH DOTS OF ICING.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHARLOTTE_RUSSE_FILLING_No_1_404" id="CHARLOTTE_RUSSE_FILLING_No_1_404"></a>CHARLOTTE RUSSE FILLING No. 1</h4> + +<p>Whip a pint of cream to a stiff froth. Soak a half ounce of gelatine in +three tablespoonfuls of cold water for half an hour; then dissolve it +with two tablespoonfuls of boiling water. Add to the whipped cream a +tablespoonful of powdered sugar (or a little more if liqueurs are not +used for flavoring), and two dessertspoonfuls of noyau or other liqueur, +or a teaspoonful of vanilla. Then turn in slowly the dissolved gelatine, +beating all the time. When it begins to stiffen turn it into a mold +which is lined with cake.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_405" id="Page_405">[405]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHARLOTTE_RUSSE_FILLING_No_2_405" id="CHARLOTTE_RUSSE_FILLING_No_2_405"></a>CHARLOTTE RUSSE FILLING No. 2</h4> + +<p>Beat well together two yolks of eggs and a half tablespoonful of sugar. +Scald a half cupful of milk, and stir it into the beaten yolks; add a +dash of salt, and return it to the double boiler. Stir it over the fire +until it coats the spoon, thus making a plain boiled custard. Add to the +hot custard a level tablespoonful of Cooper’s gelatine, which has soaked +for half an hour in four tablespoonfuls of cold water; stir until the +gelatine is dissolved, then strain it into a bowl, add two +tablespoonfuls of sherry (or use any flavoring desired) and the whipped +whites of two eggs; beat until it just begins to thicken, then mix in +lightly a pint of cream whipped to a stiff froth, and turn into the +mold.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHARLOTTE_RUSSE_FILLING_No_3_405" id="CHARLOTTE_RUSSE_FILLING_No_3_405"></a>CHARLOTTE RUSSE FILLING No. 3 (Fruit)</h4> + +<p>Soak an ounce of gelatine in a half cupful of cold water for half an +hour. Make a syrup of one cupful of sugar, a half cupful of lemon-juice, +and two cupfuls of orange-juice. When it has become a light syrup, turn +it slowly onto the beaten yolks of four eggs, beating all the time. +Return it to the double boiler, and cook until it is a little thickened, +then add the gelatine. When the gelatine is dissolved, strain and beat +until it is cold; add the whites of four eggs, and beat until it +stiffens, then turn it into the mold. A pint of whipped cream may be +used instead of the whipped whites of the eggs if convenient. In place +of orange and lemon-juice, any fruit may be used. Stew the fruit until +tender, add enough sugar to sweeten, and cook it to a light syrup; then +press the fruit through a sieve, and to two and a half cupfuls of fruit +syrup or of fruit pulp add the four eggs, and proceed as directed for +the orange filling.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHARLOTTE_RUSSE_FILLING_No_4_405" id="CHARLOTTE_RUSSE_FILLING_No_4_405"></a>CHARLOTTE RUSSE FILLING, No. 4</h4> + +<p>Use any of the plain or fruit Bavarian creams.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHARLOTTE_RUSSE_FILLING_No_5_405" id="CHARLOTTE_RUSSE_FILLING_No_5_405"></a>CHARLOTTE RUSSE FILLING No. 5</h4> + +<p>Use whipped jelly plain, or whipped jelly with fruits, called macédoine +of fruits (see page <a href="#WHIPPED_JELLY_417">417</a>).</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_406" id="Page_406">[406]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TIMBALE_OF_BRIOCHE_406" id="TIMBALE_OF_BRIOCHE_406"></a>TIMBALE OF BRIOCHE</h4> + +<p>Bake a brioche (see page <a href="#BRIOCHE_359">359</a>) in a cylindrical mold. Cut a straight +slice off the top about one inch thick; replace the cake in the tin, and +carefully pick out the center of the loaf, leaving a thickness of one +inch of the brioche. Spread the inside with a layer of jam. Put in a +saucepan the liquor from a can of apricots or peaches. Stir into it two +tablespoonfuls of arrowroot, moistened with a little water, and stir +over the fire until the juice is thickened and clear. Fill the center of +the brioche with the drained fruit, mixed with blanched almonds and +raisins; pour over it the thickened syrup, replace the cover. When set +turn it onto a dish; spread the outside with a little jam, and sprinkle +with chopped blanched almonds. This makes a very simple and wholesome +sweet.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHARLOTTE_PRINCESSE_de_GALLES_406" id="CHARLOTTE_PRINCESSE_de_GALLES_406"></a>CHARLOTTE PRINCESSE de GALLES</h4> + +<p>Take eight Carlsbad wafers of oblong shape. Stand them on end around the +outside of a cylindrical mold, and carefully stick the edges together +with sugar cooked to the crack, or with royal icing (see page <a href="#ROYAL_ICING_483">483</a>). Make +the octagon as regular as possible. When the edges are well set place it +on a foundation either of puff-paste or of layer cake cut to the shape +of the form. Ornament it with dots of royal icing pressed through a +pastry-bag and tube onto the edges. Just before serving fill the center +with whipped cream, or with czarina cream, or with whipped jelly and +fruits, or whipped jelly and meringue, or with any of the mousses. The +wafers quickly loose their crispness, so the form must not be filled +until the moment of serving.</p> + +<p>A filling may also be made for this Charlotte of any of the Charlotte +Russe mixtures, molding them in a form smaller than the form of wafers, +and when unmolded the ornamental form placed over it, and whipped cream +piled on top. In this way the wafers will not be softened.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 421px;"> +<a name="illus-406-f-3" id="illus-406-f-3" href="images/illus-406-f-3-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-406-f-3.jpg" width="421" height="198" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">CHARLOTTE PRINCESSE DE GALLES. (SEE PAGE <a href="#CHARLOTTE_PRINCESSE_de_GALLES_406">406</a>.)</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 417px;"> +<a name="illus-410-f-1" id="illus-410-f-1" href="images/illus-410-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-410-f-1.jpg" width="417" height="198" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">CHARLOTTE PRINCESSE DE GALLES MADE OF ROLLED GAUFFRES. +(SEE PAGE <a href="#CHARLOTTE_PRINCESSE_de_GALLES_406">406</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STRAWBERRY_CHARLOTTE_406" id="STRAWBERRY_CHARLOTTE_406"></a>STRAWBERRY CHARLOTTE</h4> + +<p>Cut large firm strawberries in two lengthwise; dip them in liquid +gelatine, and line a plain mold, placing the flat side<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_407" id="Page_407">[407]</a></span> against the +mold. If the mold is on ice the jelly will harden at once, and hold the +berries in place. Fill the center with Charlotte filling No. 1, or with +Bavarian cream, or with pain de fraises.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="GATEAU_ST_HONORE_407" id="GATEAU_ST_HONORE_407"></a>GÂTEAU ST. HONORÉ</h4> + +<p>This is a combination of puff-paste, cream cakes, glacé fruits, and +whipped cream. It is said to be the triumph of the chef’s art, yet one +need not fear to undertake it when one has learned to make good pastry +and to boil sugar. It is an ornamental, delicious dessert, and one that +can be presented on the most formal occasions. First: Roll thin a very +short or a puff-paste, so when baked it will be one quarter of an inch +thick only. Cut it the size of a layer-cake tin; place it on a dampened +baking-tin, and prick it with a fork in several places. Second: make a +cream-cake batter (see page <a href="#CREAM_CAKES_474">474</a>); put the batter in a pastry-bag with +half inch tube, and press out onto and around the edge of the paste a +ring of the batter. With the rest of the batter make a number of small +cakes (two dozen), forming them with the tube into balls one half inch +in diameter. Brush the ring and balls with egg, and bake in a quick +oven; then fill them with St. Honoré cream (see <a href="#St_Honore_cream_407">below</a>). Third: boil a +cupful of sugar to the crack, and glacé some orange sections and some +white grapes (see glacé fruits, page <a href="#GLACE_ORANGES_AND_GRAPES_516">516</a>). Fourth: with some of the +sugar used for the fruits stick the small cream cakes onto the ring, +making an even border; on top of each cake stick a grape, and between +them a section of orange. Place a candied cherry on each piece of +orange, and one below it, if there is room. Other candied fruits and +angelica may be used also, if desired, and arranged in any way to suit +the fancy. Fifth: make a <a name="St_Honore_cream_407" id="St_Honore_cream_407"></a>St. Honoré cream as follows: scald one cupful +of milk in a double boiler; turn it slowly onto the yolks of six eggs, +which have been well beaten with one and one half tablespoonfuls of +corn-starch and a cupful of powdered sugar. Return to the fire until it +begins to thicken or coats the spoon, then remove, and flavor with one +teaspoonful each of vanilla and noyau, and stir in lightly the whites of +eight eggs beaten very stiff. Cook it one minute to set the whites, +beating all the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_408" id="Page_408">[408]</a></span> time. When cold, turn it into the gâteau. Whipped cream +may or may not be piled on top of the St. Honoré cream.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 420px;"> +<a name="illus-410-f-2" id="illus-410-f-2" href="images/illus-410-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-410-f-2.jpg" width="420" height="208" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">GÂTEAU ST. HONORÉ. (SEE PAGE <a href="#GATEAU_ST_HONORE_407">407</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CROQUENBOUCHE_OF_MACAROONS_408" id="CROQUENBOUCHE_OF_MACAROONS_408"></a>CROQUENBOUCHE OF MACAROONS</h4> + +<p>Oil the outside of a dome-shaped mold. Beginning at the bottom, cover it +with macaroons, sticking the edges of the macaroons together with sugar +boiled to the crack, or with royal icing (see page <a href="#ROYAL_ICING_483">483</a>). Just before +serving turn it off the mold, and place it over a form of plain or fruit +Bavarian cream, which has been hardened in a smaller mold of the same +shape. There should be an inch or more of space between the two, the +outer one covering the other like a cage.</p> + +<p>A croquenbouche can also be made of little cakes cut from a layer cake +with a small biscuit-cutter, and iced in two colors with royal icing, or +with glacé oranges, or with chestnuts. The latter are difficult to make, +but are very good with ice-creams.</p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="WHIPPED_CREAM_408" id="WHIPPED_CREAM_408"></a>WHIPPED CREAM</h3> + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>General directions.</b></span> One half pint of double or very rich cream costs ten cents, +and may be diluted one half, giving a pint of cream as called +for in the receipts. Cream should be placed on the ice for +several hours before it is whipped. <span class="sidenote"><b>Temperature.</b></span> It is essential to have it +very cold, otherwise it will not whip well; and also, if rich +cream, it will form particles of butter. If not lower than 60° +it will all go to butter. Place the bowl containing the cream +in a larger bowl containing cracked ice, and with a cream +churn, Dover beater, or wire whip, whichever is convenient, +whip it to a stiff froth; continue to whip until it all +becomes inflated. If the cream is cold it will take but a few +minutes. <span class="sidenote"><b>Texture.</b></span> This gives a firm, fine-grained cream, which is used +for Bavarians, mousses, ice-creams, etc. When a lighter and +more frothy cream, called syllabub, is wanted for whips and +sauces, dilute the cream more, and remove the froth<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_409" id="Page_409">[409]</a></span> from the +top of the cream as it rises while being whipped, and place it +on a fine sieve over a bowl to drain. That which drips through +the sieve replace in the whipping-bowl to be again beaten. <span class="sidenote"><b>Time for adding.</b></span> The +flavoring and sweetening are added after it is whipped for the +first method; but it is better to add it before for the +latter, as mixing breaks down the froth. Whipped cream, like +beaten whites of eggs, added to gelatine or custard mixtures, +gives them a sponge-like texture. <span class="sidenote"><b>Draining.</b></span> It should be drained, and +added only when the mixtures are cold and ready to be molded +or frozen. It is then cut in lightly, not stirred. Some +judgment must be used about diluting the cream, and it must +stand several hours on ice to insure success.</p> + +<p>Cream whipped by the first method is the one recommended for +all purposes. When it is added to other things, any liquid +cream that may have dripped to the bottom of the bowl should +not be put in.</p> + + +<h4 class="section">DESSERTS OF WHIPPED CREAM</h4> + +<p>Preserves and jams served with whipped cream make an +excellent dessert.</p></div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="WHIPS_409" id="WHIPS_409"></a>WHIPS</h4> + +<p>Flavor a pint of cream with a dessertspoonful of maraschino, kirsch, or +rum, or with a teaspoonful of essence of vanilla, rose, or almonds, or +flavor it with black coffee. Color it pink, or green, or leave it white. +Sweeten with three scant tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. Whip it to a +stiff froth and drain. Let it stand on ice until ready to use; then with +a spoon pile it high on a glass dish. If the cream is white sprinkle it +with colored pink and green sugar mixed (see page <a href="#To_color_sugar_393">393</a>). Or, skim off the +foam which first rises, placing several spoonfuls of it on a sieve to +drain. Color the rest a delicate pink, and whip it until it all becomes +firm and of fine grain. Turn this into a glass dish, and with a spoon +place the white froth upon it.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_410" id="Page_410">[410]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CZARINA_CREAM_410" id="CZARINA_CREAM_410"></a>CZARINA CREAM</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 pint of cream.</li> + <li>¼ box of gelatine.</li> + <li>⅓ cupful of sugar.</li> + <li>¼ cupful of blanched almonds.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of vanilla.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of rosewater.</li> + <li>4 tablespoonfuls of sherry.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Put a bowl containing the cream on ice; whip it to a stiff froth; add +slowly the sugar, then the gelatine (which has first been soaked an hour +in one quarter cupful of cold water, and then dissolved by placing the +cup in hot water), beating all the time. Add the vanilla and rosewater, +and enough green coloring (see page <a href="#COLORING_392">392</a>) to give it a delicate color. +When it begins to stiffen add the sherry, and lastly the almonds chopped +fine. When the cream is quite firm put it in round paper boxes, and +sprinkle over the top a little colored sugar, or chopped pistachio nuts +and granulated sugar mixed. Let it stand an hour or more on ice before +serving.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHESTNUT_PUREE_410" id="CHESTNUT_PUREE_410"></a>CHESTNUT PURÉE WITH CREAM</h4> + +<p>Boil a pound of shelled English chestnuts a few minutes; then drain, and +remove the skins. Boil them again until tender; drain, and mash them +through a purée sieve; sweeten, flavor with vanilla, and moisten them +with a little cream. Put the purée in a saucepan, and stir over a slow +heat until dry; then press it through a colander or potato-press onto +the dish in which it is to be served. Form it into a circle, using care +not to destroy the light and vermicelli-like form the colander has given +it. Serve whipped cream in the center of the ring.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHESTNUTS_WITH_CREAM_410" id="CHESTNUTS_WITH_CREAM_410"></a>CHESTNUTS WITH CREAM</h4> + +<p>After removing the shells and skins from some English chestnuts, boil +them until tender in water, then in sugar and water, until clear. Let +them lie in the syrup until cold; then drain, and pile them on a dish. +Boil the syrup down to a thick consistency, and pour it over the nuts. +Serve cold with whipped cream.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_411" id="Page_411">[411]</a></span></p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="USES_FOR_STALE_CAKE_411" id="USES_FOR_STALE_CAKE_411"></a>USES FOR STALE CAKE</h3> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PINE_CONES_411" id="PINE_CONES_411"></a>PINE CONES</h4> + +<p>With a biscuit-cutter, cut slices of stale cake or bread into circles. +Moisten them with sherry, maraschino, or merely with a little hot water. +Chop some fresh or canned pineapple into small pieces, and pile it on +the cakes. With a knife press each one into the form of a cone or small +pyramid. Place them in a shallow tin close together, but not touching. +Put the pineapple liquor into a saucepan, and thicken it with arrowroot +(which has first been wet with water), using a teaspoonful to a cupful +of liquor. Cook until the arrowroot becomes clear and begins to stiffen; +then pour it slowly over the cones. It will cover them with a jelly. +When cold, trim them carefully so the base of each one will be round, +and lift them carefully from the tin.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CAKE_WITH_CUSTARD_411" id="CAKE_WITH_CUSTARD_411"></a>CAKE WITH CUSTARD</h4> + +<p>Spread slices of stale cake or cottage pudding with jam; place them in a +glass dish, and cover with boiled custard; or first moisten the cake +with sherry, then cover with custard.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TRIFLE_411" id="TRIFLE_411"></a>TRIFLE (Esther)</h4> + +<p>Slice in two six square sponge cakes (layer cake cut in squares will +do), spread with jam or jelly (a tart jelly is best), and put them +together like sandwiches. Moisten them in a mixture of one third brandy +and two thirds sherry. Put them in a glass dish, and pour over them a +custard made of one pint of milk, three eggs, and three tablespoonfuls +of sugar; put together as directed for boiled custard No. 2 (page <a href="#BOILED_CUSTARD_NO_2_395">395</a>). +Blanch and cut in fine strips one half cupful of almonds, and stick them +into the top cakes standing upright. Cover all with a half pint of +whipped cream, and sprinkle the top with hundreds and thousands (see +page <a name="corr31" id="corr31"></a><a href="#Colored_sugars_393">393</a>), or with colored sugar (see page <a href="#Colored_sugars_393">393</a>).</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_412" id="Page_412">[412]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BANANA_TRIFLE_412" id="BANANA_TRIFLE_412"></a>BANANA TRIFLE (Martha)</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>½ cupful of milk.</li> + <li>½ cupful of water.</li> + <li>1 heaping teaspoonful of cornstarch.</li> + <li>1 even teaspoonful of sugar.</li> + <li>½ saltspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>2 bananas.</li> + <li>6 lady-fingers.</li> + <li>½ pint of cream, or the whipped white of one egg.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Slice the bananas, and lay them in a glass dish in alternate layers with +four lady-fingers split in two. Put the milk and water in a saucepan; +add the sugar, salt, and the corn-starch diluted in a little cold water. +When it has thickened pour it over the bananas, and let it stand until +cold and ready to serve; then cover the top with whipped cream, or if +that is not convenient use the whipped white of one egg sweetened with +one tablespoonful of sugar. Split and break in two the remaining +lady-fingers, and place them upright around the edge.</p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="SWEET_JELLIES_412" id="SWEET_JELLIES_412"></a>SWEET JELLIES</h3> + + +<div class="explanations"><p><span class="smcap">With</span> different flavors, colors, and combinations, a great +variety of attractive desserts can be made with gelatine. +They are inexpensive, require no skill, and the work is +accomplished in a very few minutes.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Points_to_observe_412" id="Points_to_observe_412"></a><b>Points to observe in making jellies.</b></span> <i>Points to Observe in Making Jellies.</i>—Have jellies +perfectly transparent and brilliant. Use the right +proportions, so the jelly will hold its form, but not be too +solid. Mold the jelly carefully.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Dissolving_412" id="Dissolving_412"></a><b>Dissolving.</b></span> <i>Dissolving.</i>—Gelatine should be soaked in cold water in a +cold place (one cupful of water to a box of gelatine) for one +or more hours; then dissolved in a little hot water, or added +to the hot mixture. Treated in this way it will dissolve +quickly, and be free from taste or smell. If soaked in warm +water in a warm place it will have a disagreeable taste and +odor, requiring much flavoring to overcome.</p> + +<p>It does not need cooking. If the jelly is not suffi<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_413" id="Page_413">[413]</a></span>ciently +firm, add more gelatine; boiling down will not effect the +purpose.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Proportions_413" id="Proportions_413"></a><b>Proportions.</b></span> <i>Proportions.</i>—Observe the quantity of gelatine stated on the +box, as some brands do not contain two ounces. Two ounces will +take one and three quarter quarts of liquid, including that +used for soaking and flavoring. The directions given on the +boxes usually give the proportion of one ounce to a quart of +liquid, but this will not insure a jelly which will stand +firm, and it is safer to use less liquid.</p> + +<p>For this amount two cupfuls of sugar will give about the +right sweetening, but must be modified to suit the flavoring +used. In summer, or if the jelly will have to stand any +length of time after it is unmolded, it is better to use but +one and one half quarts of liquid to two ounces of gelatine.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="To_clear_jelly_413" id="To_clear_jelly_413"></a><b>To clear jelly.</b></span> <i>Clarifying.</i>—Most of the brands of gelatine are already +clarified, and need only to be passed through a sieve to +remove the lemon-zest and any particles of gelatine that +may not have dissolved. Any fruit juices used should be +passed through a filter-paper (see <a href="#To_clarify_fruit_juices_415">below</a>) before being added +to the jelly: straining the jelly once or twice through +a felt or flannel will usually give perfectly limpid and +beautiful jelly. When, however, they need to be clarified, +or a particularly brilliant jelly is required, stir into +the mixture when it is cool the whites of two eggs, well +broken but not too much frothed; add also the shells; stir +it over the fire until it boils; let it simmer a few minutes +and strain it, twice if necessary, through a bag, without +pressure. A piece of flannel laid over a sieve or strainer may +be substituted for a bag if more convenient.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Molding_for_fancy_jellies_413" id="Molding_for_fancy_jellies_413"></a><b>Molding for fancy jellies.</b></span> <i>Molding for Fancy Jellies.</i>—Place the mold in a bowl +containing cracked ice; the jelly will then quickly harden, +and the process of fancy molding not be tedious. Have the mold +perfectly even, so the jelly will<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_414" id="Page_414">[414]</a></span> stand firm and straight +when unmolded; also, do not move the mold while filling, as +jarring or shaking is likely to separate the layers and cause +them to fall apart. Have the jelly mixture cold, but not ready +to set, or it will take in bubbles of air and cloud the jelly. +Pour in one layer at a time and let it harden before adding +the next. Do not, however, let it become too firm or gather +moisture, or it will not unite, and also will be clouded. (See +picture facing page <a href="#illus-386-f-3">386</a>.)</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="To_mold_with_fruit_414" id="To_mold_with_fruit_414"></a><b>To mold with fruit or flowers.</b></span> To suspend a bunch of grapes in the center of a form, first +pour into the mold a layer of jelly one half inch deep; let it +harden; then place on it, and arrange in good shape the bunch +of grapes, leaving one half inch or more space around the +sides; pour in another half inch of jelly, but not enough to +float the grapes; when that has set, cut with scissors the +grape stem in many places, so it will fall apart when served; +then fill the mold with jelly. Any fruits, or flowers, can be +put in in the same way, care being used to add at first only +just enough jelly to fix the ornament; otherwise it will +float out of place. Plain jellies are more transparent when +molded in forms having a cylindrical tube in the center, like +cake-tins. The space left can be filled with whipped cream or +with fruits, which gives a pretty effect. (See <a href="#illus-416-f-1">picture</a>.)</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 422px;"> +<a name="illus-416-f-1" id="illus-416-f-1" href="images/illus-416-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-416-f-1.jpg" width="422" height="201" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">JELLY WITH A ROSE MOLDED IN IT AND GARNISHED WITH ROSES. +(SEE PAGE <a href="#To_mold_with_fruit_414">414</a>.)</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 425px;"> +<a name="illus-416-f-2" id="illus-416-f-2" href="images/illus-416-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-416-f-2.jpg" width="425" height="196" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">JELLY WITH A BUNCH OF GRAPES MOLDED IN IT. (SEE PAGE +<a href="#To_mold_with_fruit_414">414</a>.)</span> +</div> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Double molding.</b></span> <i>Double Molding</i> (see page <a href="#DOUBLE_MOLDS_325">325</a>) can be used with good effect +in sweet jellies in combination with whipped jelly, Bavarian +creams, fruit jellies, etc.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Unmolding.</b></span> <i>Unmolding.</i>—See page <a href="#TO_UNMOLD_JELLY_324">324</a>.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Serving_414" id="Serving_414"></a><b>Serving.</b></span> <i>Serving.</i>—Jellies are improved by serving with them +whipped cream, custard, or purée of fruits. It may be poured +around, not over, the jelly on the same dish. When a sauce +is not used, have a lace paper under the jelly. Jelly is +more attractive when served on a flat glass dish.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Fruit jellies.</b></span> For fruit jellies it is well to use a china mold, or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_415" id="Page_415">[415]</a></span> else +coat the tin one with clear jelly (see page <a href="#TO_MOLD_JELLY_323">323</a>), as tin is +likely to discolor it.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="To_clarify_fruit_juices_415" id="To_clarify_fruit_juices_415"></a><b>To clarify fruit juices.</b></span> <i>To Clarify Fruit Juices.</i>—Pass the fruit juice through +filter-paper laid in a funnel. If filter-paper is not at hand, +soak unsized paper to a pulp. Wash it in several waters; +press it dry; and spread it on a small sieve or in a funnel, +and drain the juice through it. If orange, lemon, or other +fruit juices are first clarified, it will often obviate the +necessity of straining the jelly. (See illustration facing +page <a href="#illus-388-f-2">388</a>.)</p></div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="WINE_JELLY_415" id="WINE_JELLY_415"></a>WINE JELLY</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>½ box, or 1 ounce, of gelatine.</li> + <li>½ cupful of cold water.</li> + <li>2 cupfuls of boiling water.</li> + <li>1 cupful of sugar.</li> + <li>Juice of 1 lemon.</li> + <li>¾ cupful of sherry, or 3 parts sherry, 1 part brandy.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Soak the gelatine in one half cupful of cold water for one hour or more. +Put the boiling water, the sugar, and a few thin slices of lemon-peel in +a saucepan on the fire. When the sugar is dissolved, add the soaked +gelatine, and stir until that also is dissolved; then remove, and when +it is partly cooled add the lemon-juice and the wine. Strain it through +a felt or flannel, and turn it into the mold. If the jelly has to be +clarified do it before adding the wine. Any wine or liqueur can be used +for flavoring. This will make one quart of jelly.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="LEMON_JELLY_415" id="LEMON_JELLY_415"></a>LEMON JELLY</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>½ box, or 1 ounce, of gelatine.</li> + <li>½ cupful of cold water.</li> + <li>2 cupfuls of boiling water.</li> + <li>1 cupful of sugar.</li> + <li>Juice of 3 lemons, filtered.</li> + <li>Thin slices of lemon-rind.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Put together as directed for wine jelly.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ORANGE_JELLY_415" id="ORANGE_JELLY_415"></a>ORANGE JELLY</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>½ box, or 1 ounce, of gelatine.</li> + <li>½ cupful of cold water.</li> + <li>1 cupful of boiling water.</li> + <li>Juice of 1 lemon.</li> + <li>1 cupful of sugar.</li> + <li>2 cupfuls of orange-juice, filtered.</li> +</ul> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_416" id="Page_416">[416]</a></span>Combine the same as directed for wine jelly.</p> + +<p>A stronger flavor and color of orange can be obtained by soaking with +the gelatine the grated yellow rind of one or two bright-skinned +oranges. In this case the juice need not be filtered, for the mixture +will have to be passed through flannel. Putting it through several times +gives a clearer and more brilliant jelly.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COFFEE_JELLY_416" id="COFFEE_JELLY_416"></a>COFFEE JELLY</h4> + +<p>Use the receipt given for wine jelly, using three quarters of a cupful +of strong filtered coffee instead of wine, and omitting the lemon; mold +in a ring, and fill the center with whipped cream; or, if this is not +convenient, use any mold, and serve with it sweetened milk.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHAMPAGNE_JELLY_416" id="CHAMPAGNE_JELLY_416"></a>CHAMPAGNE JELLY</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>½ box of Cox’s gelatine soaked in ½ cupful of cold water.</li> + <li>1 cupful of boiling water.</li> + <li>1 cupful of sugar.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, filtered.</li> + <li>1 cupful of champagne.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Combine the same as wine jelly, and do not add the champagne until the +jelly is cold. This will give one and a half pints of jelly. It is very +clear and transparent, and well suited to fancy molding.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHAMPAGNE_JELLY_WITH_FLOWERS_416" id="CHAMPAGNE_JELLY_WITH_FLOWERS_416"></a>CHAMPAGNE JELLY WITH FLOWERS</h4> + +<p>Place on ice a broad round mold (a basin will serve the purpose); +arrange, on a very thin layer of jelly, some pink rose petals in rosette +form, or to simulate an open rose; add carefully a very little jelly +with a spoon to set the decoration; when it has hardened, add a very +little more, and so continue to do until the petals are half enveloped; +then place in right position some angelica cut in diamond shaped pieces +to simulate leaves; add a little jelly at a time until the mold is full. +The petals will be bent out of shape if the jelly is not added very +slowly. When unmolded place around it some green rose-leaves and a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_417" id="Page_417">[417]</a></span> +few loose pink rose-petals. A little rose-water or essence should be +used with the champagne to flavor the jelly. Violets and angelica can be +used in the same way, or a spray of roses with leaves can be put in a +deeper mold, and when secured in position the stems cut the same as +directed for molding grapes.</p> + +<p>When flowers are used they must be very fresh.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 421px;"> +<a name="illus-410-f-3" id="illus-410-f-3" href="images/illus-410-f-3-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-410-f-3.jpg" width="421" height="203" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">PINK JELLY GARNISHED WITH PINK CARNATIONS.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="WHIPPED_JELLY_417" id="WHIPPED_JELLY_417"></a>WHIPPED JELLY OR SNOW PUDDING</h4> + +<p>Make a wine or lemon jelly (page <a href="#WINE_JELLY_415">415</a>). Place it in a bowl on ice; when +it is cold, but before it begins to harden, beat it with a Dover beater +until it becomes white and a mass of froth. Turn it into a mold to +harden. Serve with it a sauce made of boiled custard, or any preserve +that will go well with the flavoring, or a compote of orange or any +fruit.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="JELLIES_WITH_FRUITS_417" id="JELLIES_WITH_FRUITS_417"></a>JELLIES WITH FRUITS (Macédoine)</h4> + +<p>Berries or any fresh fruits, peeled and quartered, may be placed in +layers, or irregularly through the entire mold, or a mixture of fruits +may be used in the same way, when it is called a macédoine. The jelly +may be clear or whipped. Strawberries, raspberries, currants (red and +white), cherries, peaches, plums, pears, apricots, and pineapples are +suitable for this use. Preserved or canned fruits well drained may also +be used. Candied fruits are especially good, but should be cut into +pieces, and softened in maraschino. Jellies to be used with fruits are +best flavored with kirsch or maraschino.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RUSSIAN_JELLIES_417" id="RUSSIAN_JELLIES_417"></a>RUSSIAN JELLIES</h4> + +<p>For these double molds are used (see page <a href="#UTENSILS_386">386</a>).</p> + +<p>No. 1. Make the outside layer of any transparent jelly. When hard remove +the inner mold and fill the space with the same jelly whipped until +foamy. No. 2. The outside a transparent jelly, the inside one of +different flavor and color, such as champagne and maraschino colored +pink, orange and strawberry, lemon and coffee. No. 3. The outside +champagne jelly, the in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_418" id="Page_418">[418]</a></span>side whipped jelly mixed with macédoine of +fruits. No. 4. The outside wine or maraschino jelly, the filling pain de +fraises (see page <a href="#PAIN_DE_FRAISES_419">419</a>). No. 5. The outside fruits in clear jelly, the +inside Bavarian cream. No. 6. Maraschino jelly, center Bavarian cream +mixed with crushed peaches or with apricot jam.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RIBBON_JELLY_418" id="RIBBON_JELLY_418"></a>RIBBON JELLY</h4> + +<p>Make a plain jelly; divide it into three parts; flavor one with +maraschino; the second with strawberry-juice, and deepen the color with +a little carmine (see page <a href="#COLORING_392">392</a>); the third with orange, noyau, or any +other flavor, and whip it until foamy. Put it into mold in layers, +beginning with the lightest.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ITALIAN_JELLY_418" id="ITALIAN_JELLY_418"></a>ITALIAN JELLY</h4> + +<p>Make a plain blanc-mange (see page <a href="#BLANC-MANGE_399">399</a>). Let it set in a layer one half +inch thick; cut it into small circles, diamonds, or fancy shapes with +cutters. Arrange these pieces in some design around or inside a mold of +transparent jelly (see molding jellies, page <a href="#Page_324">324</a>). The blanc-mange may +be colored pink, green, or yellow, and gives a very pretty effect.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="DANTZIC_JELLY_418" id="DANTZIC_JELLY_418"></a>DANTZIC JELLY</h4> + +<p>This is a very clear, ornamental jelly, the gold-leaf giving it the +appearance of Venetian glass, and is good in individual molds to serve +with ices. Use the receipt for wine jelly, omitting the wine and making +the amount of liquid right by using more water; clarify or strain it +several times to make it very brilliant; when it is cold add two +tablespoonfuls each of eau de vie de Dantzic (see page <a href="#Eau_de_Vie_390">390</a>) and brandy.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="WHAT_TO_DO_WITH_JELLY_LEFT_OVER_418" id="WHAT_TO_DO_WITH_JELLY_LEFT_OVER_418"></a>WHAT TO DO WITH JELLY LEFT OVER</h4> + +<p>Add a little lemon-juice, and beat the jelly until it becomes entirely +white, which will take some time; turn it again into a mold to set. If +there is not enough jelly for this, cut the jelly into fine dice with a +knife as directed for cutting aspic on page <a href="#TO_CHOP_JELLY_323">323</a>, and beat into it +lightly an equal quantity of meringue. This should be prepared in a cold +place.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_419" id="Page_419">[419]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PAINS_AUX_FRUITS_419" id="PAINS_AUX_FRUITS_419"></a>PAINS AUX FRUITS, OR JELLIED FRUITS</h4> + +<p class="subtitle"><a name="PAIN_DE_FRAISES_419" id="PAIN_DE_FRAISES_419"></a>PAIN DE FRAISES (STRAWBERRIES)</p> + +<p>Crush the berries to a pulp; sweeten to taste, and add a little +flavoring, either orange and lemon juice, maraschino or Curaçao. To a +pint of the pulp add a half box, or one ounce, of Cooper’s gelatine, +which has soaked an hour in one half cupful of cold water, and then been +dissolved in one half cupful of hot water. Stir until it begins to set; +then turn it into a china mold to harden. The mold may be ornamented +with blanched almonds split in two, and arranged in star shapes. When a +tin mold is used for fruits, it is well to coat it first with plain +jelly (see page <a href="#TO_MOLD_JELLY_323">323</a>), as tin sometimes discolors fruit juices. A little +carmine may be used to heighten the color of red fruits. Raspberries, +cherries, peaches, apricots, plums, pineapples, or oranges can be used +in the same way. This gives a very good dessert with little trouble. +Serve with cream.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SUPREME_OF_STRAWBERRIES_419" id="SUPREME_OF_STRAWBERRIES_419"></a>SUPRÊME OF STRAWBERRIES</h4> + +<p>Make a pain de fraises; place it on the outside of a double mold (see +page <a href="#DOUBLE_MOLDS_325">325</a>), and fill the center space with whole berries, or with any +other fruit or mixture of fruits, such as white grapes and oranges, etc. +Serve it very cold with whipped cream.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PAIN_DE_RIZ_419" id="PAIN_DE_RIZ_419"></a>PAIN DE RIZ AUX FRUITS</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(RICE WITH FRUITS)</p> + +<p>Make a rice Bavarian (see page <a href="#RICE_BAVARIAN_402">402</a>); mix with it a few chopped blanched +almonds. Put it in a cylindrical mold in layers with pain de fraises +(strawberries) or raspberries, keeping the red layer thinner than the +white one; or mold it in a double mold, using the jellied fruit for the +center or for the outside.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PAIN_DE_RIZ_A_LA_PRINCESSE_419" id="PAIN_DE_RIZ_A_LA_PRINCESSE_419"></a>PAIN DE RIZ À LA PRINCESSE</h4> + +<p>Decorate a mold with candied cherries and angelica; line it with rice +Bavarian, and fill the center with fresh or canned pineapple chopped and +jellied. The jelly may be clear or whipped or mixed with whipped cream.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_420" id="Page_420">[420]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PAIN_DORANGES_420" id="PAIN_DORANGES_420"></a>PAIN D’ORANGES</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(ORANGES)</p> + +<p>Take off the peel and divide into sections eight to ten oranges; run a +knife between the skin and pulp and remove it carefully. Place the bare +but unbroken pulp on a sieve to drain; roll each piece in powdered +sugar, and lay them overlapping in a ring around a cylindrical mold; fix +and cover them with clear jelly flavored with kirsch or maraschino. +Arrange them in the same way around the outside of a double mold. Fill +the center with orange Bavarian, using the juice drained from the pieces +to flavor the Bavarian. Serve it with orange quarter cakes (see page +<a href="#ORANGE_QUARTERS_478">478</a>) around the dish.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PAIN_DE_PECHES_420" id="PAIN_DE_PECHES_420"></a>PAIN DE PÊCHES</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(PEACHES)</p> + +<p>No. 1. Make a jelly of peaches the same as rule given above for +strawberries; color it with a little carmine, giving it a delicate pink +shade; garnish the mold with blanched almonds and angelica, and fill it +with the jellied peach-pulp. No. 2. Cut peaches in quarters or halves, +and arrange them in a double mold with blanched almonds to look like the +pits; fill the center with peach Bavarian.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PAIN_DE_MARRONS_420" id="PAIN_DE_MARRONS_420"></a>PAIN DE MARRONS</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(CHESTNUTS)</p> + +<p>Make a purée of boiled chestnuts; sweeten and flavor with vanilla; add +to one pint of purée one ounce of dissolved gelatine; when beginning to +set add a few spoonfuls of whipped cream; cover a mold with thin coating +of jelly (see page <a href="#TO_MOLD_JELLY_323">323</a>), and fill outside of double mold with very brown +chocolate Bavarian (see page <a href="#CHOCOLATE_BAVARIAN_401">401</a>); fill the center with the jellied +chestnuts.</p> + + +<div class="footnotes"> +<p><a name="Footnote_397-1_11" id="Footnote_397-1_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_397-1_11"><span class="label">397-*</span></a> Corn-starch has a raw taste unless it is thoroughly +cooked. After the mixture has thickened it can be left to cook in a +double boiler for half an hour without changing its consistency, and +this length of time for cooking is essential to its flavor. A mold of +corn starch should not be very firm, but have a trembling jelly-like +consistency. The eggs may be omitted from above receipt if desired, but +the pudding will not be as delicate.—M. R.</p> +</div> + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_421" id="Page_421">[421]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="Chapter_XIX" id="Chapter_XIX"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter XIX</span><br /> +<br /> +HOT DESSERTS</h2> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SOUFFLES_421" id="SOUFFLES_421"></a>SOUFFLÉS</h4> + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>General remarks.</b></span> <span class="smcap">The</span> preparation of soufflés is exceedingly simple, the only +difficulty being in serving them soon enough, as they fall +very quickly when removed from the heat. They must go directly +from the oven to the table, and if the dining-room is far +removed from the kitchen the soufflé should be covered with a +hot pan until it reaches the door. The plain omelet soufflé is +the most difficult. Those made with a cooked foundation do not +fall as quickly, but they also must be served at once. In +order to insure the condition upon which the whole success of +the dish depends, it is better to keep the table waiting, +rather than suffer the result of the omelet being cooked +too soon. Have everything ready before beginning to make a +soufflé, and see that the oven is right. In adding the beaten +whites “fold” them in, that is, lift the mixture from the +bottom, and use care not to break it down by too much mixing.</p></div> + + + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_422" id="Page_422">[422]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="OMELET_SOUFFLE_422" id="OMELET_SOUFFLE_422"></a>OMELET SOUFFLÉ</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>Whites of 6 eggs.</li> + <li>Yolks of 3 eggs.</li> + <li>Grated zest of ½ lemon.</li> + <li>3 rounded tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, sifted.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Whip the whites of the eggs, with a pinch of salt added to them, to a +very dry stiff froth. Beat to a cream the yolks and the sugar, then add +the lemon. Fold in the beaten whites lightly (do not stir) and turn the +mixture into a slightly oiled pudding-dish. If preferred, turn a part of +it onto a flat dish, and with a knife shape it into a mound with a +depression in the center. Put the rest into a pastry-bag, and press it +out through a large tube, into lines and dots over the mound; sprinkle +it with sugar and bake it in a very hot oven eight to ten minutes. Serve +at once in the same dish in which it is baked (see <a href="#SOUFFLES_421">soufflés</a> above). The +flavor may be vanilla, or orange if preferred.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="VANILLA_SOUFFLE_422" id="VANILLA_SOUFFLE_422"></a>VANILLA SOUFFLÉ</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 cupful of milk.</li> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls of flour.</li> + <li>3 tablespoonfuls of sugar.</li> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls of butter.</li> + <li>¼ teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of vanilla.</li> + <li>4 eggs.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Put the milk into a double boiler with the salt; when it is scalded add +the butter and flour, which have been rubbed together. Stir for ten +minutes to cook the flour and form a smooth paste; then turn it onto the +yolks of the eggs, which, with the sugar added, have been beaten to a +cream. Mix thoroughly, flavor, and set away to cool; rub a little butter +over the top, so that no crust will form. Just before time to serve, +fold into it lightly the whites of the eggs, which have been beaten to a +stiff froth. Turn it into a buttered pudding-dish and bake in a moderate +oven for thirty to forty minutes; or, put the mixture into buttered +paper cases, filling them one half full, and bake ten to fifteen +minutes. Serve with the soufflé foamy sauce (page <a href="#FOAMY_SAUCE_445">445</a>). This soufflé may +be varied by using different flavors; also by putting a layer of crushed +fruit in the bottom<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_423" id="Page_423">[423]</a></span> of the dish, or by mixing a half cupful of +fruit-pulp with the paste before the whites are added. In this case the +whites of two more eggs will be needed to give sufficient lightness. +Serve at once after it is taken from the oven.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHOCOLATE_SOUFFLE_423" id="CHOCOLATE_SOUFFLE_423"></a>CHOCOLATE SOUFFLÉ</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>3 ounces of chocolate.</li> + <li>1 heaping tablespoonful of sugar.<a name="FNanchor_423-1_12" id="FNanchor_423-1_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_423-1_12" class="fnanchor">423-*</a></li> + <li>2 rounded tablespoonfuls of flour.</li> + <li>½ cupful of milk.</li> + <li>Yolks of 3 eggs.</li> + <li>Whites of 4 eggs.</li> + <li>1 rounded tablespoonful of butter.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Melt the butter in a small saucepan; stir into it the flour and let it +cook a minute, but not brown, then add slowly the milk and stir until +smooth and a little thickened; remove it from the fire and turn it +slowly onto the yolks and sugar, which have been beaten to a cream; mix +thoroughly and add the melted chocolate (see page <a href="#To_melt_chocolate_388">388</a>); stir for a few +minutes, then set it away to cool; rub a little butter over the top so a +crust will not form. When ready to serve, stir the mixture well to make +it smooth and fold into it lightly the whites of the eggs, which have +been whipped until very dry and firm. Turn the mixture into a buttered +tin, filling it two thirds full. Have the tin lined with a strip of +greased paper which rises above the sides to confine the soufflé as it +rises. Place the tin in a deep saucepan containing enough hot water to +cover one half the tin. Cover the saucepan and place it where the water +will simmer for thirty minutes, keeping it covered all the time. Place +the tin on a very hot dish and serve at once. Cover the top with a hot +tin until it reaches the dining-room if it has to be carried far.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PRUNE_SOUFFLE_423" id="PRUNE_SOUFFLE_423"></a>PRUNE SOUFFLÉ</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>½ pound of prunes.</li> + <li>3 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar.</li> + <li>4 eggs.</li> + <li>1 small teaspoonful of vanilla.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar to a cream, add the vanilla, +and mix them with the prunes, the prunes having been<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_424" id="Page_424">[424]</a></span> stewed, drained, +the stones removed, and each prune cut into four pieces. When ready to +serve fold in lightly the whites of the eggs, which have been whipped to +a stiff froth, a dash of salt having been added to the whites before +whipping them. Turn it into a pudding-dish and bake in a moderate oven +for twenty minutes. Serve it as soon as it is taken from the oven. A few +chopped almonds, or meats from the prune-pits, may be added to the +mixture before the whites are put in if desired.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="APPLE_SOUFFLE_424" id="APPLE_SOUFFLE_424"></a>APPLE SOUFFLÉ</h4> + +<p>Boil some peeled and cored apples until tender; press them through a +colander; season to taste with butter, sugar, and vanilla. Place the +purée in a granite-ware saucepan and let it cook until quite dry and +firm. To one and one quarter cupfuls of the hot reduced apple purée add +the whites of four eggs, whipped very stiff and sweetened with three +tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. Mix the purée and meringue lightly and +quickly together and turn it into a pudding-dish; smooth the top into a +mound shape; sprinkle with sugar and bake in a slow oven twenty to +twenty-five minutes. This soufflé does not fall. Serve with a hard, a +plain pudding, or an apricot sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FARINA_PUDDING_424" id="FARINA_PUDDING_424"></a>FARINA PUDDING</h4> + +<p>This is a very wholesome, delicate pudding, and is especially +recommended. The receipt gives an amount sufficient for six people.</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>2 cupfuls of milk (1 pint).</li> + <li>4 tablespoonfuls of farina.</li> + <li>3 tablespoonfuls of sugar.</li> + <li>3 eggs.</li> + <li>Grated rind of ½ lemon.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Put the milk and lemon-zest into a double boiler; when it reaches the +boiling-point stir in the farina and cook for five minutes; then remove +from the fire and turn it onto the yolks and sugar, which have been +beaten together until light; stir all the time. Let it become cool but +not stiff; when ready to bake it, fold in lightly the whites of the eggs +beaten to a stiff<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_425" id="Page_425">[425]</a></span> froth, a dash of salt added to them before beating. +Turn it into a pudding-dish and place the dish in a pan containing +enough hot water to half cover it. Bake it in a moderately hot oven for +twenty-five minutes. Serve at once, or, like other soufflés, it will +fall. Serve with it a sabayon No. 2, or a meringue sauce (pages <a href="#SABAYON_No_2_446">446</a> and +<a href="#MERINGUE_SAUCE_448">448</a>).</p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="SWEET_OMELETS_425" id="SWEET_OMELETS_425"></a>SWEET OMELETS</h3> + + +<p>These desserts are quickly made, are always liked, and serve well in +emergencies.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ORANGE_OMELET_425" id="ORANGE_OMELET_425"></a>ORANGE OMELET</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>3 eggs.</li> + <li>3 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar.</li> + <li>1 orange, using the grated rind and 3 tablespoonfuls of juice.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Beat the yolks of the eggs with the sugar to a cream; add the grated +zest of the rind and the orange juice; then fold in lightly the beaten +whites of the eggs. Have a clean, smooth omelet or frying-pan; put in a +teaspoonful of butter, rubbing it around the sides as well as bottom of +the pan. When the butter bubbles, turn in the omelet mixture and spread +it evenly. Do not shake the pan. Let it cook until it is a delicate +brown and seems cooked through, but not hard. Fold the edges over a +little and turn it onto a flat hot dish; sprinkle it plentifully with +powdered sugar; heat the poker red hot and lay it on the omelet four +times, leaving crossed burnt lines in the form of a star. This ornaments +the top and also gives a caramel flavor to the sugar.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="JAM_OMELET_425" id="JAM_OMELET_425"></a>JAM OMELET</h4> + +<p>Make a French omelet as directed on page <a href="#PLAIN_FRENCH_OMELET_264">264</a>, using four to six eggs; +omit the pepper and add a little powdered sugar. When the omelet is +ready to turn, place in the center two tablespoonfuls of any jam +(apricot is particularly good) and fold. Turn the omelet onto a hot dish +and sprinkle it with sugar.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_426" id="Page_426">[426]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RUM_OMELET_426" id="RUM_OMELET_426"></a>RUM OMELET</h4> + +<p>Make either a French omelet, or a beaten omelet, using a little sugar +and omitting the pepper. Place the dish holding the omelet on a second +and larger dish to prevent accident from fire. When ready to place on +the table pour over the omelet a few spoonfuls of rum or brandy and +light it. It is better not to touch the match to it until it is on the +table.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SWEET_PANCAKES_426" id="SWEET_PANCAKES_426"></a>SWEET PANCAKES</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>3 eggs.</li> + <li>1 cupful of milk.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of sugar.</li> + <li>½ cupful of flour.</li> + <li>½ tablespoonful of oil.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Beat the yolks and whites of the eggs separately; mix them together and +add the salt, sugar, and one half the milk; stir in the flour, making a +smooth paste; then add the rest of the milk, and lastly the oil; beat +well and let it stand an hour or more before using. Bake on a hot +griddle in large or small cakes as desired; spread each cake with butter +and a little jam or jelly, then roll them, sprinkle with sugar, and +serve at once. Any pancake batter can be used. Those made of rice or +hominy are good. The batter can be made of a consistency for thick or +thin cakes by using more or less milk. Currant or tart jelly is better +to use than a sweet preserve.</p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="FRITTERS_426" id="FRITTERS_426"></a>FRITTERS</h3> + + +<p>With fritter batter a number of good desserts are made, which, if +properly fried, will be entirely free from grease, and perfectly +wholesome.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRITTER_BATTER_426" id="FRITTER_BATTER_426"></a>FRITTER BATTER</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>2 eggs.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of oil.</li> + <li>1 cupful of flour.</li> + <li>½ cupful of cold water.</li> + <li>1 saltspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>If for sweet fritters, 1 teaspoonful of sugar and 1 tablespoonful of brandy.</li> +</ul> + +<p>For clam or oyster fritters use one tablespoonful of lemon juice or +vinegar, salt and pepper to taste, and the liquor of the clams or +oysters instead of water.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_427" id="Page_427">[427]</a></span>Stir the salt into the egg-yolks; add slowly the oil, then the brandy +and the sugar; the brandy may be omitted if desired, and if so, use two +tablespoonfuls of oil instead of one. When well mixed stir in slowly the +flour, and then the water, a little at a time. Beat it well and set it +aside for two hours (it is better to let it stand longer); when ready to +use, stir in the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. The batter +should be very thick and of the consistency to coat completely the +article it is intended to cover. If not soft enough add the white of +another egg.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="APPLE_FRITTERS_427" id="APPLE_FRITTERS_427"></a>APPLE FRITTERS</h4> + +<p>Cut firm apples crosswise into slices one quarter of an inch thick. With +a biscuit-cutter stamp them into circles of uniform size; sprinkle them +with orange sugar (see page <a href="#Orange_sugar_391">391</a>), and moisten them with brandy. Let them +stand to soak for ten minutes, then dry one or two at a time on a +napkin; dip them in batter, using care to have them completely coated, +and drop them into hot fat (see frying, page <a href="#FRYING_72">72</a>). Fry to an amber color; +lift them out on a skimmer and dry on paper in an open oven until all +are fried; then roll them in sugar and serve on a folded napkin, the +slices overlapping. Fry only two at a time, so they can be kept well +apart. Serve with a sauce flavored with brandy or sherry.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PEACH_OR_APRICOT_FRITTERS_427" id="PEACH_OR_APRICOT_FRITTERS_427"></a>PEACH OR APRICOT FRITTERS</h4> + +<p>Cut the fruit in half; sprinkle with sugar moistened with maraschino, +and roll them in powdered macaroons before dipping them in the batter. +Fry as directed above. Well-drained canned fruit may also be used for +fritters.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ORANGE_FRITTERS_427" id="ORANGE_FRITTERS_427"></a>ORANGE FRITTERS</h4> + +<p>Cut the oranges in quarters; take out the seeds and run a knife between +the pulp and peel, freeing the orange and leaving it raw. Roll them in +powdered sugar and dip in batter before the sugar has time to dissolve; +fry as directed for apple fritters.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_428" id="Page_428">[428]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRITTERS_MADE_OF_BISCUIT_DOUGH_428" id="FRITTERS_MADE_OF_BISCUIT_DOUGH_428"></a>FRITTERS MADE OF BISCUIT DOUGH</h4> + +<p>Make a biscuit dough as given on page <a href="#BISCUITS_352">352</a>; turn it on a floured board +and let it rise until light, then roll it one eighth of an inch thick +and cut it into circles with a fluted patty-cutter. Put a teaspoonful of +jam in the center of a circle. Wet the edges and cover with a second +circle; press the edges lightly together and fry in hot fat.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BALLOONS_428" id="BALLOONS_428"></a>BALLOONS</h4> + +<p>Put a cupful of water in a saucepan; when it boils add one tablespoonful +of butter; when the butter is melted add one cupful of flour and beat it +with a fork or wire whip until it is smooth and leaves the sides of the +pan. Remove from the fire and add three eggs, one at a time, beating +vigorously each one before adding the next. Let it stand until cold. +When ready to serve, drop a spoonful at a time into moderately hot fat +and fry for about 15 minutes. Take out on a skimmer and dry on brown +paper. The batter will puff into hollow balls. If the fat is very hot it +will crisp the outside too soon and prevent the balls from puffing. Fry +only a few at a time, as they must be kept separated. Sprinkle with +powdered sugar and pile on a folded napkin. Serve with lemon sauce made +as follows.</p> + +<p>Lemon sauce: Strain the juice of one and a half lemons; add one cupful +of powdered sugar, then a half cupful of boiling water.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BATTER_PUDDING_428" id="BATTER_PUDDING_428"></a>BATTER PUDDING</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 cupful of milk.</li> + <li>1 heaping tablespoonful of butter.</li> + <li>½ cupful of flour.</li> + <li>3 eggs.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Put the milk in a double boiler; when hot add the butter. Let the milk +boil; then add the flour, and beat it hard until it leaves the sides of +the pan; then remove from the fire and stir in gradually the eggs, which +have been well beaten, the yolks and whites together, and a dash of +salt. Continue to beat the batter until it is no longer stringy. Turn it +into a warm greased pudding-dish, and bake in a moderate oven thirty to +thirty-five<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_429" id="Page_429">[429]</a></span> minutes. It should puff up like a cream cake, and have a +thick crust. Serve as soon as it is taken from the oven, or it will +fall. The batter may stand some time before baking if convenient. It may +be baked in gem-pans fifteen to twenty minutes if preferred. Serve with +plain pudding or hard sauce.</p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="DESSERTS_MADE_OF_APPLES_429" id="DESSERTS_MADE_OF_APPLES_429"></a>DESSERTS MADE OF APPLES</h3> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SNOW_APPLE_PUDDING_429" id="SNOW_APPLE_PUDDING_429"></a>SNOW APPLE PUDDING</h4> + +<p>Fill a pudding-dish half full of apple purée or sauce, well seasoned +with butter, sugar, and nutmeg. Pour over it a batter made of one and a +half cupfuls of flour mixed with two heaping teaspoonfuls of +baking-powder, one half teaspoonful of salt, and a tablespoonful of +chopped suet or of lard. Moisten it with about three quarters of a +cupful of milk, or enough to make a thick batter. It should not be as +stiff as for biscuits. Cook in a steamer about three quarters of an +hour, and serve at once with a hard, foamy, sabayon, or any other sauce. +The top will be very light and white. This quantity is enough to serve +six people.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BROWN_BETTY_429" id="BROWN_BETTY_429"></a>BROWN BETTY</h4> + +<p>In a quart pudding-dish arrange alternate layers of sliced apples and +bread-crumbs; season each layer with bits of butter, a little sugar, and +a pinch each of ground cinnamon, cloves, and allspice. When the dish is +full pour over it a half cupful each of molasses and water mixed; cover +the top with crumbs. Place the dish in a pan containing hot water, and +bake for three quarters of an hour, or until the apples are soft. Serve +with cream or with any sauce. Raisins or chopped almonds improve the +pudding.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BAKED_APPLE_DUMPLINGS_429" id="BAKED_APPLE_DUMPLINGS_429"></a>BAKED APPLE DUMPLINGS</h4> + +<p>Make a short pie-crust; roll it thin and cut it into squares large +enough to cover an apple. Select apples of the same size;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_430" id="Page_430">[430]</a></span> pare them; +remove the core with a corer, and fill the space with sugar, butter, a +little ground cinnamon, and nutmeg. Place an apple in the center of each +square of pie-crust; wet the edges with white of egg and fold together, +the points meeting on the top; give the edges a pinch and turn, making +them fluted. Bake in a moderate oven about forty minutes, or until the +apples are tender, but not until they have lost their form. If +preferred, the crust may be folded under the apple, leaving it round. It +must be well joined, so the juices will not escape. Brush the top with +egg, and ten minutes before removing from the oven dust them with a +little sugar to give them a glaze.</p> + +<p>Serve with hard sauce.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 423px;"> +<a name="illus-422-f-2" id="illus-422-f-2" href="images/illus-422-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-422-f-2.jpg" width="423" height="198" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">BAKED APPLE DUMPLINGS. (SEE PAGE <a href="#BAKED_APPLE_DUMPLINGS_429">429</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="APPLE_CHARLOTTE_430" id="APPLE_CHARLOTTE_430"></a>APPLE CHARLOTTE</h4> + +<p>Cut bread into slices one quarter inch thick; then into strips one and a +half inches wide, and as long as the height of the mold to be used; cut +one piece to fit the top of mold, then divide it into five or six +pieces. Butter the mold; dip the slices of bread into melted butter, and +arrange them on the bottom and around the sides of the mold, fitting +closely together or overlapping. Fill the center entirely full with +apple sauce made of tart apples stewed until tender, then broken into +coarse pieces, drained, and seasoned with butter and sugar. A little +apricot jam can be put in the center if desired; chopped almonds also +may be added. Cover the top with bread, and bake in a hot oven about +thirty minutes. The bread should be an amber color like toast. Turn it +carefully onto a flat dish. Serve with a hard sauce or any other sauce +preferred.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="APPLES_WITH_RICE_No_1_430" id="APPLES_WITH_RICE_No_1_430"></a>APPLES WITH RICE, No. 1</h4> + +<p>Boil half a cupful of rice with a saltspoonful of salt in milk until +tender; sweeten it to taste; drain it if the milk is not all absorbed; +press it into a basin; smooth it over the top; when it has cooled enough +to hold the form, turn it onto a flat dish. This will be a socle, and +should be about one and a half to two<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_431" id="Page_431">[431]</a></span> inches high. Pare and core as +many apples as will stand on the top of the socle; boil them slowly +until tender in sugar and water; remove them before they lose shape. +Boil the sugar and water down to a thick syrup. Arrange the apples on +the top of the rice, and pour over them a little of the thickened syrup; +then fill the center of each apple with jam; place a candied cherry on +each one, and a pointed piece of angelica between each apple. The syrup +should give enough sauce, but Richelieu sauce is recommended instead. +Serve hot or cold.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 415px;"> +<a name="illus-430-f-1" id="illus-430-f-1" href="images/illus-430-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-430-f-1.jpg" width="415" height="195" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">STEWED APPLES ON A RICE SOCLE—GARNISHED WITH CANDIED +CHERRIES AND ANGELICA. (SEE PAGE <a href="#APPLES_WITH_RICE_No_1_430">430</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="APPLES_WITH_RICE_No_2_431" id="APPLES_WITH_RICE_No_2_431"></a>APPLES WITH RICE, No. 2</h4> + +<p>Boil the rice as above; sweeten it and flavor it with a few drops of +orange-flower water, almond, or other essence, and mix into it a few +chopped blanched almonds. Turn it onto a flat dish, and press it into a +mound or cone. Cut some apples of uniform size in halves, cutting from +the stem to the blossom; remove the core with a vegetable scoop (see +<a href="#illus-430-f-2">illustration</a>), and pare off the skin carefully; stew the apples slowly +until tender, but still firm enough to hold their shape; before removing +them add a few drops of carmine to the water, and let them stand until +they have become a delicate pink; then drain and place them evenly and +upright against the form of rice. Put some meringue in a pastry-bag, and +press it in lines or dots around the apples and over the top of the +rice, making it as ornamental as desired. Dust it with sugar, and place +for one minute in the oven to slightly color the meringue, but not long +enough to dry the surface of the apples. Serve with whipped cream, with +fruit sauce, Richelieu sauce, or wine sauce.</p> + +<p>Whipped cream may be substituted for the meringue, in which case place +the apples overlapping one another around the rice in wreath shape; +flatten the top of the rice, and pile the whipped cream on it. Another +form may be made by putting the rice in a border-mold to shape it, +filling the center of the rice with a well-seasoned apple purée, and +finishing as directed above.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 419px;"> +<a name="illus-430-f-2" id="illus-430-f-2" href="images/illus-430-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-430-f-2.jpg" width="419" height="203" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">STEWED APPLES CUT IN HALVES AND ARRANGED AROUND A RICE +SOCLE—GARNISHED WITH MERINGUE. (SEE PAGE <a href="#APPLES_WITH_RICE_No_2_431">431</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_432" id="Page_432">[432]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="APPLES_WITH_CORN-STARCH_432" id="APPLES_WITH_CORN-STARCH_432"></a>APPLES WITH CORN-STARCH (Felice)</h4> + +<p>Pare and core as many apples as will be used, having them of uniform +size. To a quart of water add one half cupful of sugar and the juice of +half a lemon; boil the apples in this until tender, but remove them +before they lose shape; drain and place them in regular order on the +dish in which they are to be served. Boil the water down one half; then +stir into it one tablespoonful of corn-starch or arrowroot moistened in +a little water; let it cook until the starch is clear; remove from the +fire; flavor with lemon, almond, kirsch, or anything preferred; let it +stiffen a little; then pour it over the apples; sprinkle with sugar and +place in the oven a moment to brown, or, omitting the browning, sprinkle +them with green and pink sugar (see page <a href="#To_color_sugar_393">393</a>), or stick them full of +split almonds.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FLAMING_APPLES_432" id="FLAMING_APPLES_432"></a>FLAMING APPLES</h4> + +<p>Pare and core the apples; stew them in sugar and water until tender, but +still firm enough to hold their shape. Remove them carefully to the +serving-dish; fill the centers with apricot or raspberry jam; boil down +the liquor to a thick syrup and pour it over the apples; just before +serving pour over them a few spoonfuls of rum or brandy, and light it +with a taper after it is on the table. Serve with fancy cakes.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BAKED_APPLES_BREAKFAST_432" id="BAKED_APPLES_BREAKFAST_432"></a>BAKED APPLES</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(FOR BREAKFAST)</p> + +<p>Select apples of equal size; wash and polish them; remove the core. +Place them in a baking-tin a little distance apart, and put a little +water in the bottom of the pan. Bake in a moderate oven about thirty +minutes; baste frequently, so they will not burn or blacken. Serve with +sugar and cream.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BAKED_APPLES_LUNCH_432" id="BAKED_APPLES_LUNCH_432"></a>BAKED APPLES</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(FOR LUNCHEON)</p> + +<p>Pare and core the apples; fill the centers with butter and sugar. Let +them bake in a pan with a little water until tender,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_433" id="Page_433">[433]</a></span> but still in good +shape; baste frequently, letting them become only slightly colored. +After removing from the oven sprinkle them with granulated sugar and a +little powdered cinnamon or nutmeg.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TAPIOCA_PUDDING_433" id="TAPIOCA_PUDDING_433"></a>TAPIOCA PUDDING</h4> + +<p>Arrange evenly in a buttered dish six apples which have been pared and +cored. Any other fruit may be used—canned peaches are good. Soak a +cupful of tapioca in hot water for an hour or more; sweeten and flavor +it to taste and pour it over the fruit. Bake in a moderate oven for an +hour.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 419px;"> +<a name="illus-422-f-1" id="illus-422-f-1" href="images/illus-422-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-422-f-1.jpg" width="419" height="197" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">PUDDING MOLDS.</span> +</div> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="RICE_PUDDINGS_433" id="RICE_PUDDINGS_433"></a>RICE PUDDINGS</h3> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PLAIN_RICE_PUDDING_No_1_433" id="PLAIN_RICE_PUDDING_No_1_433"></a>PLAIN RICE PUDDING No. 1</h4> + +<p>In a pudding-dish holding a quart, put two heaping tablespoonfuls of +well-washed rice; fill the dish with milk, and add a half teaspoonful of +salt. Let it cook in the oven for half an hour, stirring it two or three +times. Take it out and add two tablespoonfuls of sugar and a scant +teaspoonful of vanilla; also a half cupful of stoned raisins if desired. +Grate nutmeg over the top; return the dish to the oven and cook slowly +for two hours or more; as the milk boils down, lift the skin at the side +and add more hot milk. The pudding should be creamy, and this is +attained by slow cooking, and by using plenty of milk.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RICE_PUDDING_No_2_433" id="RICE_PUDDING_No_2_433"></a>RICE PUDDING No. 2</h4> + +<p>Scald a pint and a half of milk; add a tablespoonful of cornstarch which +has been moistened with a little of the cold milk; cook it for a few +minutes; then remove it from the fire and stir in three cupfuls of +boiled rice, a cupful or more of sugar to taste, and the beaten yolks of +two eggs. Return it to the fire and cook it until thickened, stirring +constantly but carefully. Turn it into a dish, cover the top with +meringue, and place it in the oven for a few minutes to brown.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_434" id="Page_434">[434]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RICE_AND_RAISINS_434" id="RICE_AND_RAISINS_434"></a>RICE AND RAISINS</h4> + +<p>Mix with two cupfuls of boiled rice a half or three quarters cupful of +raisins. The rice should be boiled as directed on page <a href="#TO_BOIL_RICE_222">222</a>, and the +raisins should be soaked in hot water until plump, and the seeds +removed. Press the mixture into a bowl to give it shape, and turn it +onto a flat dish. Grate nutmeg over the top. Serve with sweetened milk a +little flavored with vanilla or almond, or only nutmeg.</p> + +<p>For Lemon Rice Pudding, see page <a href="#LEMON_RICE_PUDDING_242">242</a>.</p> + +<p>For Rice and Orange Marmalade Pudding, see page <a href="#RICE_AND_ORANGE-MARMALADE_PUDDING_242">242</a>.</p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="BREAD_PUDDINGS_434" id="BREAD_PUDDINGS_434"></a>BREAD PUDDINGS</h3> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BREAD_PUDDING_No_1_434" id="BREAD_PUDDING_No_1_434"></a>BREAD PUDDING No. 1</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>2 cupfuls of milk.</li> + <li>1 cupful of bread-crumbs or broken bread.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of sugar.</li> + <li>2 egg-yolks.</li> + <li>1 egg-white.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of vanilla.</li> + <li>1 saltspoonful of salt.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Soak the bread in the milk until softened; then beat it until smooth and +add the rest of the ingredients excepting the white of egg. Turn it into +a pudding-dish, place this in a pan of hot water, and bake in a slow +oven fifteen to twenty minutes, or only long enough to set the custard +without its separating. Cover the top with a layer of jam or with tart +jelly, and place in the center a ball of meringue made with the white of +one egg; dust with sugar, place in the oven a moment to brown the +meringue, and then put a piece of jelly on the top of the meringue. +Serve hot or cold. The jelly and meringue answers as a sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BREAD_AND_BUTTER_PUDDING_434" id="BREAD_AND_BUTTER_PUDDING_434"></a>BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING</h4> + +<p>Cut stale bread into thin slices; remove the crusts, dip them in melted +butter, and arrange them in a small bread or square cake-tin in even +layers, alternating with layers of stoned raisins. When the mold is +full, pour over it a mixture made of one pint of milk, the yolks of two +eggs, and two tablespoonfuls of sugar.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_435" id="Page_435">[435]</a></span> Use only as much as the bread +will absorb. Bake in a moderate oven twenty to thirty minutes. Turn it +onto a flat dish and serve with it a plain pudding sauce. The bread +should be dry and crisp and hold the form of the mold.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BREAD_TARTS_435" id="BREAD_TARTS_435"></a>BREAD TARTS</h4> + +<p>Cut bread into slices a quarter of an inch thick, then with a +biscuit-cutter about three inches in diameter stamp it into circles. +Moisten the circles of bread with milk, but do not use enough to cause +them to fall apart; then spread them with any jam or preserve and place +two together like a sandwich. Place them in a frying-pan with a little +butter, and sauté them on both sides to a delicate color. Sprinkle with +powdered sugar and serve very hot. A sabayon or other sauce can be +served with them if convenient, but it is not essential.</p> + +<p>For other bread puddings see Blueberry Pudding and Cherry Bread, page +<a href="#BLUEBERRY_PUDDING_241">241</a>.</p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="CAKE_PUDDINGS_435" id="CAKE_PUDDINGS_435"></a>CAKE PUDDINGS</h3> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COTTAGE_PUDDING_435" id="COTTAGE_PUDDING_435"></a>COTTAGE PUDDING</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 cupful of flour.</li> + <li>1 heaping teaspoonful of baking-powder.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of butter.</li> + <li>½ cupful of sugar.</li> + <li>½ cupful of milk.</li> + <li>1 saltspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>1 egg.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Mix the baking-powder with the flour and sift them. Rub the butter and +sugar together to a cream and beat into it the egg; then add the milk, +in which the salt has been dissolved. Add the flour; beat well together +and turn into a cake-tin having a tube in the center. Bake about +twenty-five minutes in a moderate oven. Turn it onto a flat dish, +leaving it bottom side up. The chocolate sauce given below is +recommended, but any other sauce may be served with it.</p> + +<p><a name="Chocolate_sauce_435" id="Chocolate_sauce_435"></a>Chocolate sauce: Melt three ounces or squares of Baker’s chocolate on a +dry pan (see page <a href="#To_melt_chocolate_388">388</a>); add one half cupful of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_436" id="Page_436">[436]</a></span> sugar and one half +cupful of boiling water. Stir until well dissolved and smooth, then add +one quarter teaspoonful of <a name="corr32" id="corr32"></a>vanilla.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CANARY_PUDDING_436" id="CANARY_PUDDING_436"></a>CANARY PUDDING</h4> + +<p>Take the mixture for Genoese cake, which is three eggs, and their weight +respectively of sugar, butter, and flour; cream the butter and sugar; +then beat in, one at a time, the three eggs; add lightly the sifted +flour. Butter a covered pudding-mold; decorate it with raisins, or +sprinkle it all over with currants; fill it half full of the mixture; +cover and steam for one hour, or put it in individual timbale-molds and +bake for twenty minutes. Serve with wine or fruit or Richelieu sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SUET_PUDDING_436" id="SUET_PUDDING_436"></a>SUET PUDDING</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 cupful of molasses.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of soda.</li> + <li>1 cupful of milk</li> + <li>3½ cupfuls of flour.</li> + <li>1 cupful of stoned raisins.</li> + <li>1 cupful of suet, chopped fine.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of salt.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Mix the salt, flour, and suet together. Mix the molasses and milk; add +the soda and then as much of the flour mixture as will make a stiff +batter (not dough), then add the raisins floured, and fill a covered +pudding-mold half full; steam for three hours. Serve with foamy, wine, +or brandy sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FARINA_PUDDING_436" id="FARINA_PUDDING_436"></a>FARINA PUDDING (Boiled)</h4> + +<p>Stir into three cupfuls of boiling milk one cupful of farina, and cook +for ten minutes. Rub together one tablespoonful of butter and two +tablespoonfuls of sugar; add the yolks of three eggs, the grated rind of +one lemon and twenty-five chopped blanched almonds. Stir this mixture +into the farina after it is a little cooled; lastly add the whites of +three eggs beaten to stiff froth. Boil this pudding in a covered mold +for one and a half hours. Serve with any pudding sauce.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_437" id="Page_437">[437]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHRISTMAS_PLUM_PUDDING_437" id="CHRISTMAS_PLUM_PUDDING_437"></a>CHRISTMAS PLUM PUDDING</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>¾ pound of suet chopped very fine; mix with it, while chopping, a + tablespoonful of flour.</li> + <li>¾ pound of raisins seeded.</li> + <li>¾ pound of currants.</li> + <li>¾ pound of sugar.</li> + <li>¾ pound of fresh bread-crumbs.</li> + <li>Grated zest of one lemon.</li> + <li>¼ pound candied orange-peel and citron cut into thin shavings.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful each of ground cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, and allspice.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Mix the dry materials together thoroughly, and then add six eggs, one at +a time, and one half cupful of brandy; add another egg if too stiff, and +more crumbs if too soft. Wet a strong cloth in cold water, wring it dry, +butter it, and dredge it well with flour; turn the mixture into the +center and draw the cloth together over the top, leaving room for the +pudding to swell a little, and tie it firmly; give it a good round +shape. Put it into a pot of boiling water, having it completely covered +with water; cover the pot and boil four to five hours. Do not let the +water fall below the pudding, and in adding more let it be hot, so as to +not arrest the boiling. After it is removed from the water let it rest +in the bag for ten minutes to harden a little, then cut the string and +turn it carefully onto a dish. Cut a small hole in the top of the +pudding and insert a paper bonbon case (see page <a href="#UTENSILS_386">386</a>); trim it so it +does not show. Pour rum or brandy onto the dish and also into the paper +box on top; place it on the table and touch it with a lighted taper. +Serve with a brandy sauce. The amount given will serve twelve to +fourteen persons. The mixture may be divided and boiled in small +puddings if it is too much to use at one time. It will keep for a long +time, and the puddings can be warmed when used. Slices of cold plum +pudding may be steamed and served with a sauce; or they may be rolled in +egg and crumbs and fried in hot fat, and be served as fruit croquettes.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_438" id="Page_438">[438]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FIG_PUDDING_438" id="FIG_PUDDING_438"></a>FIG PUDDING</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>½ cupful of chopped figs.</li> + <li>½ cupful of chopped suet.</li> + <li>2 cupfuls of white bread-crumbs.</li> + <li>½ cupful of sugar.</li> + <li>1 cupful of milk.</li> + <li>¼ cupful of flour.</li> + <li>½ cupful of chopped almonds.</li> + <li>4 eggs.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of baking-powder.</li> + <li>3 tablespoonfuls of noyau or other flavor.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Flour the figs and suet. Soak the bread-crumbs in the milk, add the +sugar, then the egg-yolks, and beat it well; then add slowly, stirring +all the time, the figs, suet, almonds, flour mixed with the +baking-powder, flavoring, and lastly the whites of the eggs beaten very +stiff. Turn it into a covered pudding-mold, filling it three quarters +full; steam for three hours. This mixture will fill twelve individual +molds. If the small molds are used, place a star of angelica in the +bottom of each one and cover it with a thin layer of boiled rice; then +fill three quarters full with the pudding mixture; place them in a pan +of hot water, cover with a greased paper, and poach on top of the range +for one and one half hours. This pudding can have brandy poured over and +lighted the same as the plum pudding. Serve with a syrup sauce flavored +the same as the pudding.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CABINET_PUDDING_No_1_438" id="CABINET_PUDDING_No_1_438"></a>CABINET PUDDING No. 1</h4> + +<p>Ornament the bottom of a well-buttered mold with citron and raisins. +Cover them with slices of cake; then fill the mold nearly full with +alternate layers of fruit and cake, arranging the fruit on the edges of +the fruit layers so it will be even and symmetrical. Make a custard +mixture of a pint of milk, three egg-yolks, and three tablespoonfuls of +sugar. Pour it slowly into the mold, so the cake will be thoroughly +soaked, and set it in a pan of water. Bake it in a slow oven for an +hour, or until the custard is set. Unmold the pudding, and serve with it +a wine sauce.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_439" id="Page_439">[439]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CABINET_PUDDING_No_2_439" id="CABINET_PUDDING_No_2_439"></a>CABINET PUDDING No. 2</h4> + +<p>Cut a half pound of candied fruits into dice, using cherries, apricots, +plums, limes, etc.; also some candied orange-peel shredded. Butter well +a plain cylindrical mold; sprinkle over the bottom a thin layer of the +fruit, then a layer of cake (genoese, or sponge layer cake, see page +<a href="#SPONGE-CAKE_No_1_466">466</a>). Fill the mold to within an inch of the top with alternate layers +of fruit and cake, using also some macaroons. Leave always some fruit on +the sides of the mold. Then turn in slowly a custard mixture made of one +pint of milk, the yolks of five eggs, and two and one half +tablespoonfuls of sugar. Let it stand a few minutes for the cake to +absorb the liquid; then place the mold in a pan of hot water, and poach +in a slow oven for one hour. This pudding is usually served hot, but may +be served cold. Serve with Sabayon, Richelieu, or Bischoff sauces. (See +<a href="#PUDDING_SAUCES_444">pudding sauces</a>.)</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CABINET_PUDDING_No_3_439" id="CABINET_PUDDING_No_3_439"></a>CABINET PUDDING No. 3 (Royale)</h4> + +<p>Take a loaf of brioche (see page <a href="#BRIOCHE_359">359</a> and <a href="#BRIOCHE_FOR_TIMBALE_361">361</a>) baked the day before in a +cylindrical mold. Cut it into slices one half inch thick. Cut with a +small patty-cutter a round piece from the center of all but two of the +slices. Cut the crust from the outside, taking as little as possible. +Spread each slice with apricot jam, and sprinkle with chopped almonds. +Butter the mold well, and replace the slices, using on the bottom one +which has not had a hole cut in the center. When all but the last slice +are in, fill the well in the center with mixed canned fruits well +drained, using pineapple, apricots, a few candied cherries, and chopped +almonds; then pour in a custard mixture made of one pint of milk, four +yolks of eggs, two and a half tablespoonfuls of sugar. Let the brioche +absorb the liquid; then cover with the second whole slice, and pour over +that, too, some of the custard mixture. Place the mold in a pan of hot +water, and poach in a slow oven for one hour. Let it stand a little +while in the mold after it is cooked. When ready to serve, unmold, +spread the whole outside with apricot jam, and sprinkle with chopped +almonds. Serve with apricot sauce or any other sauce.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_440" id="Page_440">[440]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CABINET_PUDDING_No_4_440" id="CABINET_PUDDING_No_4_440"></a>CABINET PUDDING No. 4</h4> + +<p>Cut slices of bread one half inch thick to fit a mold. Fill the mold +with alternate layers of bread and chopped drained pineapple (fresh or +canned). Pour in a custard mixture made of one pint of milk, yolks of +three eggs, and three tablespoonfuls of sugar. Bake in a slow oven for +one hour (as directed above), or until the custard is set. Serve with a +sauce made of the juice of the fruit diluted and thickened with a little +arrowroot, then sweetened and flavored (with kirsch if liked), and a few +shredded almonds.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SAVARINS_440" id="SAVARINS_440"></a>SAVARINS</h4> + +<p>Butter some individual timbale-molds, sprinkle them with chopped +almonds, fill them half full of brioche paste (see page <a href="#BRIOCHE_359">359</a>), let the +paste rise to the top of the molds, and then bake in a hot oven for +about twenty minutes. When baked, cut off the top even with the mold, +and turn them out. Pour over them a hot syrup made of one cupful of +sugar and three quarters of a cupful of water boiled for ten minutes (or +to 30°), and flavored with four teaspoonfuls of kirsch. Other flavors +may be used if preferred. Let the savarins absorb enough of the hot +syrup to be well moistened, but not so much as to lose their firmness. +Drain and serve them hot. Or incorporate into the paste before molding a +little shredded candied orange-peel. Soak them, when baked, in syrup +flavored with orange or curaçao, and cover them with an orange fondant +icing (see page <a href="#FONDANT_ICING_485">485</a>), and serve cold.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BABA_440" id="BABA_440"></a>BABA</h4> + +<p>Into three cupfuls of brioche paste mix one cupful of currants, raisins, +and chopped citron, which have soaked for an hour in maraschino. Half +fill buttered baba-molds (which are cups holding about one half pint); +let it rise to top of mold, which will take about three quarters of an +hour. It must not rise in too warm a place, or the butter will separate. +Bake them in a moderate oven one half hour. Let them absorb hot syrup at +30°, flavored with kirsch or sherry.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_441" id="Page_441">[441]</a></span></p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="CUSTARDS_441" id="CUSTARDS_441"></a>CUSTARDS</h3> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CREME_PARISIENNE_441" id="CREME_PARISIENNE_441"></a>CRÊME PARISIENNE</h4> + +<p>This is the same as caramel custard (page <a href="#CARAMEL_CUSTARD_396">396</a>), except that it is served +hot. Butter well a flat mold or basin, ornament the bottom with a few +candied cherries and angelica, pour over them caramel which is not +browned deeper than an amber color, and do not use enough to float the +fruits. Let it cool before adding the custard mixture. When it is baked, +let the mold stand in the hot water until the moment of serving.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRIED_CREAM_441" id="FRIED_CREAM_441"></a>FRIED CREAM</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 pint of milk.</li> + <li>½ cupful of sugar.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of butter.</li> + <li>Yolks of 3 eggs.</li> + <li>2¼ tablespoonfuls of cornstarch.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of flour.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of vanilla.</li> + <li>½ saltspoonful of salt.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Put the milk into a double boiler with the salt and a piece of cinnamon +or lemon-zest. When it is at the boiling-point add the sugar; then the +cornstarch and flour, which have been moistened in cold milk. Stir until +thickened; remove, and turn it over the beaten yolks of the eggs. Place +it on the fire again for a few minutes to set the eggs. Add the butter +and flavoring, and strain it onto a flat dish, or biscuit-tin, making a +layer three quarters of an inch thick. Let it stand until perfectly cold +and firm (it may be made the day before it is used); then cut it into +pieces three inches long and two inches wide. Handle the pieces +carefully, using a broad knife-blade. Cover each one with sifted +cracker-crumbs, then with egg, and again with crumbs; be sure they are +completely covered. Fry the pieces in hot fat to an amber color; lay +them on a brown paper in the open oven to dry, sprinkle them with sugar, +and serve on a folded napkin. The crust should be crisp, and the center +creamy, the same as a croquette. If the pudding stands long enough +before being fried, it will not be difficult to handle. Have the fat +smoking hot, and do not fry too long. This dish is recommended, as it is +particularly good, and very easy to make.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_442" id="Page_442">[442]</a></span></p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="SHORT_CAKES_442" id="SHORT_CAKES_442"></a>SHORT CAKES</h3> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STRAWBERRY_SHORTCAKE_442" id="STRAWBERRY_SHORTCAKE_442"></a>STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>4 cupfuls of sifted flour.</li> + <li>3 heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-powder.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of butter.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of lard.</li> + <li>Milk.</li> + <li>2 quarts of strawberries.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Sift the baking-powder and salt with the flour, rub in the shortening; +then with a fork stir in lightly and quickly sufficient milk to make a +soft dough—too soft to roll. Turn it into a greased tin, and bake in a +hot oven for thirty minutes. Watch to see that it rises evenly. Unmold, +and leaving it inverted, cut a circle around the top, within one inch of +the edge; lift off the circle of crust, and with a fork pick out the +crumb from the center, leaving about three quarters of an inch of +biscuit around the sides. Spread the inside of the cake with butter, and +then fill it with crushed strawberries, which have been standing half an +hour or more mixed with sugar enough to sweeten them. Turn off the juice +from the berries before filling the cake. Replace the circle of crust, +and cover the whole cake, top and sides, with meringue, heaping it +irregularly on the top. Use a pastry-bag if convenient to give the +meringue ornamental form. Place it in the oven a moment to slightly +color the meringue. Arrange a few handsome berries on the top. Serve the +strawberry-juice as a sauce. Whipped cream may be used instead of +meringue, if convenient. Shortcake, to be good, should be freshly made, +and served as soon as put together.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CURRANT_SHORTCAKE_442" id="CURRANT_SHORTCAKE_442"></a>CURRANT SHORTCAKE</h4> + +<p>Make a biscuit dough as directed for strawberry shortcake above, using +half the quantity. Turn it into a pie-tin to bake. While it is still hot +cut the edges and pull it apart with forks (do not cut it). Turn the +crumb sides up; butter them and cover each one with a thick layer of +crushed currants, which have been standing at least two hours with +enough sugar to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_443" id="Page_443">[443]</a></span> sweeten them. Place one layer on the other, cover the +top with meringue, and ornament it with a few currants in lines or +arranged in any way to suit the fancy. This is a delicious shortcake, +the acid of the currants giving it more character than strawberry +shortcake.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STRAWBERRY_CAKE_443" id="STRAWBERRY_CAKE_443"></a>STRAWBERRY CAKE</h4> + +<p>Make two layers of Genoese (page <a href="#GENOESE_CAKE_467">467</a>) or of sponge cake No. 1 (page +<a href="#SPONGE-CAKE_No_1_466">466</a>); cover them with whipped cream, and arrange whole strawberries +close together over the entire top; place one layer on the other, and +serve at once. The cream moistens the cake if it stands long.</p> + +<p>Shortcakes are good made of peaches or pineapple, using the biscuit +mixture.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ROLY-POLY_PUDDING_443" id="ROLY-POLY_PUDDING_443"></a>ROLY-POLY PUDDING</h4> + +<p>Make a biscuit dough, and roll it out a quarter of an inch thick; spread +it with any kind of berries (whortleberries or blackberries are best). +Then roll it, and tie it in a cloth, leaving room for the pudding to +expand, and boil or steam it for an hour. Serve with any sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRUIT_PUDDING_443" id="FRUIT_PUDDING_443"></a>FRUIT PUDDING</h4> + +<p>Beat two eggs; add a cupful of milk, three teaspoonfuls of baking-powder +and enough flour to make a stiff batter; then stir in as much fruit as +it will hold (cherries, whortleberries, strawberries, or raspberries are +the best fruits to use). Turn the mixture into a pudding-mold large +enough to give room for the pudding to expand, and boil it for an hour. +Serve with it plain pudding sauce, Sabayon, or a fruit sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BAKED_INDIAN_PUDDING_443" id="BAKED_INDIAN_PUDDING_443"></a>BAKED INDIAN PUDDING</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>¼ cupful yellow meal.</li> + <li>Scant half cupful of molasses.</li> + <li>¼ teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>1½ tablespoonfuls of butter.</li> + <li>3 cupfuls of milk.</li> + <li>1 egg.</li> + <li>¼ cupful of water.</li> + <li>Dash of nutmeg.</li> +</ul> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_444" id="Page_444">[444]</a></span>Put two cupfuls of milk, a quarter cupful of water, and the salt, on the +fire; when it boils stir in the meal, and let it cook five minutes, +stirring all the time; then remove from the fire, and add the rest of +the milk mixed with the molasses, the butter, the beaten egg, and the +nutmeg (or ginger, if preferred), and turn it into a baking-dish. Bake +it in a slow oven for three hours. This quantity makes a pint and a half +of pudding.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p><span class="smcap">Note.</span>—Some small bits of candied orange-peel sprinkled on +the bottom of the dish before the batter is put in give a +delicious flavor to the pudding.</p></div> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="PUDDING_SAUCES_444" id="PUDDING_SAUCES_444"></a>PUDDING SAUCES</h3> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Pudding</span> sauces are quickly made. They call for but few materials, and, +like other sauces, often give the whole character to the dish. Serving +the same pudding with a different sauce, makes it a different dish; +therefore it is well to vary as much as possible the combinations. +Farina pudding can be served with almost any of the sauces given below. +Cake, cornstarch, rice, apple, or bread puddings can also be served with +almost any sauce, if the flavorings are the same, or such as go well +together. Hot puddings can be served with cold sauces. Jellies, creams, +and blanc-manges can be served with whipped cream, the fruit sauces, or +the whipped egg sauces.</p> + +<p>Stewed prunes or compote of orange are good to serve with plain boiled +rice, or with sweetened hominy, farina, or cerealine molded in cups.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PLAIN_PUDDING_SAUCE_No_1_444" id="PLAIN_PUDDING_SAUCE_No_1_444"></a>PLAIN PUDDING SAUCE No. 1 (Hot)</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>¾ cupful of sugar.</li> + <li>2 cupfuls of boiling water.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of butter.</li> + <li>Zest of lemon.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of cornstarch.</li> + <li>Flavoring to taste of vanilla or any essence, or brandy, rum, or wine.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Dilute the corn-starch with a little cold water, and stir it into the +boiling water; add the sugar and stir until the starch becomes clear; +then add the butter and flavoring. If the sauce becomes too thick, +dilute it with a little boiling water; the whipped white of one egg may +be added, but is not essential.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_445" id="Page_445">[445]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PLAIN_PUDDING_SAUCE_No_2_445" id="PLAIN_PUDDING_SAUCE_No_2_445"></a>PLAIN PUDDING SAUCE No. 2 (Cold)</h4> + +<p>Stir a heaping teaspoonful of corn-starch, which has been moistened with +a little cold milk, into a pint of boiling milk, and stir for five +minutes, or until it is well cooked; add three quarters of a cupful of +sugar, and remove from the fire. When the mixture is cold flavor it, and +just before serving beat in the whipped whites of two eggs and serve at +once.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RICH_PUDDING_SAUCE_445" id="RICH_PUDDING_SAUCE_445"></a>RICH PUDDING SAUCE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(FOR FRUIT PUDDINGS OR CROQUETTES)</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>3 tablespoonfuls of butter.</li> + <li>3 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar.</li> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls of hot water.</li> + <li>½ cupful of sherry.</li> + <li>Juice of ½ lemon.</li> + <li>2 egg <a name="corr33" id="corr33"></a>yolks.</li> + <li>Dash of nutmeg.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Cream the butter; add the sugar, and cream again thoroughly; then add +the yolks and beat until light; add the hot water and the nutmeg. Place +it in a saucepan of hot water, and beat, adding slowly the lemon-juice +and the wine. The sauce should be foamy.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FOAMY_SAUCE_445" id="FOAMY_SAUCE_445"></a>FOAMY SAUCE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(STEAMED AND BAKED PUDDINGS)</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>½ cupful of butter.</li> + <li>1 cupful of powdered sugar.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of vanilla.</li> + <li>¼ cupful of boiling water.</li> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls of sherry.</li> + <li>1 egg white.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Cream the butter and sugar; add the vanilla and wine, and beat them +well. Just before serving stir in the boiling water; add the whipped +white of one egg, and beat until foamy.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BRANDY_RUM_OR_KIRSCH_SAUCE_445" id="BRANDY_RUM_OR_KIRSCH_SAUCE_445"></a>BRANDY, RUM, OR KIRSCH SAUCE</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(FRUIT OR PLUM PUDDINGS)</p> + +<p>Put in a saucepan two cupfuls of water with one cupful of sugar. When +the sugar is dissolved and the water boils, add slowly a heaping +tablespoonful of corn-starch or arrowroot di<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_446" id="Page_446">[446]</a></span>luted with a little cold +water; stir until the corn-starch is clear; then remove from the fire, +and add two tablespoonfuls of the liquor. Serve it hot.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SABAYON_No_1_446" id="SABAYON_No_1_446"></a>SABAYON No. 1</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>4 egg-yolks.</li> + <li>4 tablespoonfuls of wine.</li> + <li>4 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Beat in a small saucepan the eggs and sugar to a light cream; add the +wine. When ready to serve, place the saucepan in another one containing +hot water, and beat until the sugar is melted and the egg beginning to +thicken.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SABAYON_No_2_446" id="SABAYON_No_2_446"></a>SABAYON No. 2</h4> + +<p>Put one cup of sugar, one half cup of sherry, and one egg all together +in a saucepan and whip over the fire until it is a little thickened.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SYRUP_SAUCE_446" id="SYRUP_SAUCE_446"></a>SYRUP SAUCE</h4> + +<p>Put two cupfuls of sugar and three tablespoonfuls of water into a +saucepan on the fire, and stir until the sugar is dissolved; then let it +boil without touching until it is a light syrup, and remove from the +fire; add a teaspoonful of butter and flavoring, which may be fruit +juice, liqueur, brandy, or flavoring extract.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRUIT_SAUCES_446" id="FRUIT_SAUCES_446"></a>FRUIT SAUCES</h4> + +<p>Canned fruits, preserves, or jams make good sauces for blanc-mange, +corn-starch, rice, or boiled puddings.</p> + +<p>The juice of canned fruit, boiled and thickened a little with arrowroot, +and flavored or not with liqueur or essence, makes a good hot sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="APRICOT_SAUCE_446" id="APRICOT_SAUCE_446"></a>APRICOT SAUCE</h4> + +<p>Dilute one half cupful of apricot jam with one half cupful of hot water; +sweeten if necessary; strain and flavor with vanilla or one teaspoonful +of Madeira or maraschino.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_447" id="Page_447">[447]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PUREE_OF_FRUIT_SAUCES_447" id="PUREE_OF_FRUIT_SAUCES_447"></a>PURÉE OF FRUIT SAUCES</h4> + +<p>Strawberries, raspberries, peaches and apricots make excellent pudding +sauces. Mash the fruit and press it through a colander or coarse sieve; +sweeten to taste; serve hot or cold; if hot, let it come to the +boiling-point and thicken with arrowroot, using one teaspoonful to a +cupful of purée.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PINEAPPLE_SAUCE_447" id="PINEAPPLE_SAUCE_447"></a>PINEAPPLE SAUCE</h4> + +<p>Chop the pineapple (fresh or canned) fine; sweeten and thicken with +arrowroot. Serve with fritters, corn-starch, rice, or batter puddings.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BOILED_CUSTARD_SAUCE_447" id="BOILED_CUSTARD_SAUCE_447"></a>BOILED CUSTARD SAUCE</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>Yolks of 2 eggs.</li> + <li>1 cupful of milk.</li> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls of sugar.</li> + <li>¼ teaspoonful of vanilla.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Beat the yolks and sugar to a cream; pour over them the scalded milk; +return to the fire to cook the eggs, but let it only slightly thicken; +remove; add the flavoring and beat with a wire whip to make it light and +foamy. When served with plum pudding add rum or brandy to flavor it. +Almonds chopped fine improve it for hot puddings.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHOCOLATE_SAUCE_447" id="CHOCOLATE_SAUCE_447"></a>CHOCOLATE SAUCE</h4> + +<p>Put a half cupful each of sugar and water in a saucepan and let boil +five minutes. Let the syrup cool, then stir it slowly into four ounces +of unsweetened chocolate melted; add one half teaspoonful of vanilla. +Let it stand in a pan of hot water until ready to serve; then add one +half cupful of cream or of milk.<a name="FNanchor_447-1_13" id="FNanchor_447-1_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_447-1_13" class="fnanchor">447-*</a></p> + + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BISCHOFF_SAUCE_447" id="BISCHOFF_SAUCE_447"></a>BISCHOFF SAUCE</h4> + +<p>Put in a saucepan one cupful of white wine, one cupful of hot water, and +sugar to taste; add the zest of one half of an orange and one half of a +lemon; let it come to the boiling-point; remove from the fire; take out +the orange and lemon peel and add one half cupful of seedless raisins, +one tablespoonful of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_448" id="Page_448">[448]</a></span> shredded almonds, and a tablespoonful of finely +shredded candied orange and lemon peel; cover and let stand a half-hour. +When ready to serve let it again come to the boiling-point. Serve with +cabinet puddings.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RICHELIEU_SAUCE_448" id="RICHELIEU_SAUCE_448"></a>RICHELIEU SAUCE</h4> + +<p>Put one cupful of sugar into a saucepan with one cupful of boiling +water; let it boil five minutes; add one teaspoonful of arrowroot +moistened with a little water, and cook until clear; then remove from +fire. Flavor with one tablespoonful of kirsch and add two tablespoonfuls +of shredded almonds and candied cherries cut into small pieces.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MERINGUE_SAUCE_448" id="MERINGUE_SAUCE_448"></a>MERINGUE SAUCE</h4> + +<p>Whip the whites of two or three eggs to a very stiff froth. Take as many +tablespoonfuls of sugar as you have egg-whites; add a little water and +let it cook to the ball (see page <a href="#DEGREES_OF_BOILING_SUGAR_512">512</a>), or so that when dropped into +water it will roll into a ball between the fingers. Turn this hot syrup +slowly onto the whipped eggs, beating all the time; then beat it over +the fire for a minute where the heat is moderate. This is called Italian +meringue. Remove it from the fire and add a little lemon-juice or kirsch +to take away the excessive sweetness; or a little currant jelly can be +used, also grated orange-peel and shredded candied peel; serve it at +once. This is a good sauce for soufflés or light puddings.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="HARD_SAUCE_448" id="HARD_SAUCE_448"></a>HARD SAUCE</h4> + +<p>Beat together one half cupful of butter and one cupful of sugar until +they are very white and light; flavor with vanilla, wine, or brandy. The +success of this sauce depends upon its being beaten a long time. It may +be varied by beating with it the yolk of an egg, or adding the whipped +white of an egg after the butter and sugar are beaten. Let it stand on +ice to harden a little before serving.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_449" id="Page_449">[449]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STRAWBERRY_SAUCE_449" id="STRAWBERRY_SAUCE_449"></a>STRAWBERRY SAUCE</h4> + +<p>Make a hard sauce as directed above; add the whipped white of one egg +and a cupful of strawberries mashed to a pulp. Any fruit-pulp may be +added in the same way and makes a good sauce for fruit puddings.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COCOANUT_SAUCE_449" id="COCOANUT_SAUCE_449"></a>COCOANUT SAUCE</h4> + +<p>Make a hard sauce as directed above; add the yolks of two eggs; when it +is very light and creamy add the whipped whites and a cupful of grated +cocoanut.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COLD_JELLY_SAUCE_449" id="COLD_JELLY_SAUCE_449"></a>COLD JELLY SAUCE</h4> + +<p>Stir a half glassful of grape, currant, or any jelly until smooth; then +beat into it lightly the whipped whites of two eggs. Serve with any +light pudding or with jelly.</p> + + +<div class="footnotes"> +<p><a name="Footnote_423-1_12" id="Footnote_423-1_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_423-1_12"><span class="label">423-*</span></a> If unsweetened chocolate is used, add about three more +tablespoonfuls of sugar or to taste, and a teaspoonful of vanilla.</p> + +<p><a name="Footnote_447-1_13" id="Footnote_447-1_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_447-1_13"><span class="label">447-*</span></a> This sauce should be smooth and of the consistency of +heavy cream. If it is to be used with ice-cream, omit the cream or milk +and make it of the right consistency with water. See also page <a href="#Chocolate_sauce_435">435</a>.—M. +R.</p></div> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_450" id="Page_450">[450]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="Chapter_XX" id="Chapter_XX"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter XX</span><br /> +<br /> +PIES AND PUFF-PASTE</h2> + + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Seasons.</b></span> <span class="smcap">The</span> American pie is perhaps the most ridiculed of all dishes. +It has, however, great popularity and undoubted merits. Were +the crust, especially the under one, always right, it would +remove the most salient point of criticism. The tart pies, +made with puff-paste, are a temptation to the most fastidious +taste. The mince pie, probably the most indigestible of all, +is the one universally accepted as a treat, and seldom refused +by the scoffer. Pies have their seasons, like other good +things, the apple pie being the only one served the year +round. The berries and fruits, each one in their time, make +most acceptable and delicious pies and tarts, while rhubarb +introduces the spring, and pumpkin announces the autumn. In +this day of canned and dried fruits the season need not +be so strictly observed, but fresh fruits will always be +preferable to preserved ones, and tradition goes far to hold +the place for pumpkin pie at Thanksgiving, and mince pie at +the Christmas feasts.</p></div> + + + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_451" id="Page_451">[451]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PIES_451" id="PIES_451"></a>PIES</h4> + +<p class="subtitle"><a name="PLAIN_PASTRY_FOR_PIES_451" id="PLAIN_PASTRY_FOR_PIES_451"></a>PLAIN PASTRY FOR PIES</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 quart of flour.</li> + <li>1 cupful of butter.</li> + <li>1 cupful of cold water.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>Or use one-half butter and one half lard or cottolene.</li> +</ul> + +<p>This quantity gives enough for three or four pies. Cottolene makes good +pastry. The shortening may be mixed, but the flavor is better where +butter alone is used. The richness of pastry depends upon the amount of +shortening used.</p> + +<p>Sift the salt and flour together, reserving a little flour for the +board. With a knife, cut the butter into the flour. Add the water a +little at a time, and mix it in lightly with the knife; turn it onto the +board, and roll it twice—that is, after it is rolled out once, fold it +together and roll it again. If the paste is wanted richer for the top +crust, put bits of butter over the paste when rolled; fold and roll it +again several times. Fold the paste, and put it in the ice-box for an +hour before using, keeping it covered. In making pastry everything +should be cold, the handling light, and the hands used as little as +possible. Paste will keep several days in a cool place, but should be +rolled in a napkin, so it will not dry and form a crust.</p> + +<p><i>To Put a Pie Together.</i>—Roll the paste one eighth inch thick, and a +little larger than the tin. Dust the pan with flour; place the paste on +it, letting it shrink all it will. Lift it from the sides to fit it into +place, and press it as little as possible. Cut a narrow strip of paste, +and lay around the edge; moisten it so it will stick. Brush the top of +the bottom crust with white of egg, so the filling will not soak in and +make it heavy. Put in the filling, and cover with another sheet of +pastry. Moisten the top of the strip of pastry so the top crust will +adhere to it; this gives three layers around the edge. Trim and press +them lightly together. Cut several slits in the top crust to let the +steam escape in cooking.</p> + +<p>A thin piece of paste cut into fancy shape can be placed in the center +for ornament if desired.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_452" id="Page_452">[452]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PASTRY_FOR_TARTS_OR_OPEN_PIES_452" id="PASTRY_FOR_TARTS_OR_OPEN_PIES_452"></a>PASTRY FOR TARTS OR OPEN PIES</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>2 cupfuls of flour.</li> + <li>¾ cupful of butter.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of sugar.</li> + <li>Yolks of 2 eggs.</li> + <li>Water.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Sift the flour, salt, and sugar together. Cut in the butter as directed +above. Mix in the beaten yolks, then enough water to make a paste which +is not very stiff; roll it two or three times, then wrap it in a cloth, +or cover it closely, and put it in the ice-box for an hour. This gives +enough paste for four small tart pies like those shown in illustration.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TART_PIES_452" id="TART_PIES_452"></a>TART PIES</h4> + +<p class="subtitle">(APRICOT, PLUM, APPLE, BERRY)</p> + +<p>Roll the paste one eighth of an inch thick, lay it on a deep pie-dish; +let it shrink all it will, and use as little pressure as possible in +fitting it to the tin. Cut the paste an inch larger than the dish, and +fold it under, giving a high twisted edge. Prick the paste on the bottom +in several places with a fork. Lay over it a thin paper, and fill the +tart with rice, dried peas, beans, cornmeal, or any dry material +convenient. Brush the edge with egg, and bake it in a moderate oven. +When done remove the rice, or other filling, and the paper. Brush the +bottom with white of egg. This will insure a dry under crust. If +apricots or peaches are to be used, peel and cut them in halves, lay +them evenly over the tart with the center side up.</p> + +<p>Place the half of a blanched almond in each one to represent the pit. +Put the juice of the fruit into a saucepan on the fire; if there is no +juice use a cupful of water. Sweeten to taste, and when it boils add to +each cupful of juice one teaspoonful of arrowroot dissolved in a little +cold water, and let it cook until clear; then pour it around the fruit, +but not over it, as the fruit should lie on top and show its form. Place +in the oven only long enough to cook the fruit tender. If canned fruit +is used, cook the juice and arrowroot until a little<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_453" id="Page_453">[453]</a></span> thickened and +clear; then pour it around the fruit, and let cool. It will not need to +be put in the oven.</p> + +<p>When plums or cherries are used, remove the pits carefully, and place +the fruit close together, with the whole side up. For apple tarts, cut +the apples in even quarters or eighths; stew them in sweetened water, +with a little lemon-juice added, until tender. Lay them overlapping in +even rows or circles in the tart. To a cupful of water in which the +apples were stewed add a teaspoonful of arrowroot, and cook until clear; +pour it over the apples, sprinkle with sugar, nutmeg, and cinnamon. With +berries, the fruit may be stewed or not before being placed in the tart; +then strips of paste are laid across it, like lattice-work, and the +paste brushed with egg. Bake long enough to cook the fruit and the +strips of paste. When cold place a fresh berry on each piece of crust +where it crosses; or place a drop of meringue on the crusts, and the +berries in the openings.</p> + +<p>The California canned fruits, costing thirty-five cents, make very good +pies. One can of fruit will make two pies. Tart-rings are better to use +than pie-tins, as the sides are straight. Place them on a baking-sheet, +or tin, before lining them with pastry.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 419px;"> +<a name="illus-452-f-1" id="illus-452-f-1" href="images/illus-452-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-452-f-1.jpg" width="419" height="213" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">TART RINGS AND CRUSTS.</span> + +<ul class="illus"> + <li>1, 2. Tart Rings.</li> + <li>3. Crust baked in ring No. 1.</li> + <li>4. Crust filled with rice as prepared for baking. (See page <a href="#PASTRY_FOR_TARTS_OR_OPEN_PIES_452">452</a>)</li> +</ul> +</div> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 421px;"> +<a name="illus-452-f-2" id="illus-452-f-2" href="images/illus-452-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-452-f-2.jpg" width="421" height="203" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">TART PIES.</span> + +<ul class="illus"> + <li>1. Pie filled with quarters of apples arranged in rows.</li> + <li>2. Pie filled with apricots cut in halves—a blanched +almond in the center of each piece. (See page <a href="#TART_PIES_452">452</a>.)</li> +</ul> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ORANGE_PIE_453" id="ORANGE_PIE_453"></a>ORANGE PIE</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>Juice and grated yellow rind of 1 orange.</li> + <li>⅔ cupful of milk.</li> + <li>3 eggs.</li> + <li>1 cupful of granulated sugar.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of flour.</li> + <li>½ saltspoonful of salt.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Beat the yolks and the sugar together; add the flour, the milk, and the +grated rind and juice of the orange. Place it on the fire in a double +boiler, and stir until it is a little thickened; then pour it into an +open or tart pie, and bake thirty minutes. The crust of the pie should +be brushed with white of egg before adding the thickened mixture. The +tart crust may be first baked, as directed above, if preferred. Cover +the top with meringue made with the whites of the eggs and sweetened +with three tablespoonfuls of sugar. Pile it on irregularly, or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_454" id="Page_454">[454]</a></span> press it +through a pastry-bag into fancy shapes. Place it in the oven a moment to +brown. A little more flour may be used if the pie is wanted more solid.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PLAIN_APPLE_PIE_454" id="PLAIN_APPLE_PIE_454"></a>A PLAIN APPLE PIE</h4> + +<p>Fill a pie with apples sliced thin, using enough to make the pie at +least an inch thick when done. Add a little water to the apples, and +cover with a top crust which is a little richer than the under one. This +is done by rolling out a part of the same paste, covering it with bits +of butter, folding it together, and rolling it again, repeating the +operation two or three times. Cut a few slits in the paste to let out +the steam while cooking. Brush the top with beaten yolk of egg.</p> + +<p>When the pie is baked, and while it is still hot, lift off carefully the +top crust; add sugar, nutmeg, and a little butter, and mix them well +with the apples. Replace the top crust, and dust it with powdered sugar. +Apple pies seasoned in this way are better than when seasoned before +being baked.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PUMPKIN_PIE_454" id="PUMPKIN_PIE_454"></a>PUMPKIN PIE</h4> + +<p>Cut a pumpkin into small pieces; remove the soft part and seeds. Cover +and cook it slowly in its own steam until tender; then remove the cover +and reduce it almost to dryness, using care that it does not burn. Press +it through a colander. To two and one half cupfuls of pulp add two +cupfuls of milk, one teaspoonful each of salt, butter, cinnamon, and +ginger, one tablespoonful of molasses, two eggs, and sugar to taste. Add +the beaten eggs last and after the mixture is cold. Pour it into an open +crust and bake slowly forty to fifty minutes. Squash pies are made in +the same way, but are not the same in flavor, although they are often +given the name of pumpkin pies.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MINCE_PIE_MIXTURE_454" id="MINCE_PIE_MIXTURE_454"></a>MINCE PIE MIXTURE</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>3 pounds of lean boiled beef chopped fine, or half beef and half boiled tongue.</li> + <li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_455" id="Page_455">[455]</a></span>1½ pounds of suet chopped fine.</li> + <li>3 quarts of apples chopped not very fine.</li> + <li>1 quart of stoned raisins.</li> + <li>2 cupfuls of cleaned currants.</li> + <li>¼ pound of citron cut into thin slices.</li> + <li>1 cupful of candied orange and lemon peel shredded.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful each of cloves, allspice and cinnamon.</li> + <li>Grated zest and juice of two oranges and two lemons.</li> + <li>2 nutmegs grated.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of salt.</li> + <li>1 cupful of molasses.</li> + <li>3 cupfuls or sugar.</li> + <li>3 cupfuls of brandy.</li> + <li>1 cupful of sherry.</li> + <li>1 cupful of cider.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Mix the meat and suet together; then add all the dry ingredients and +then the liquids. Pack in an earthen jar. It should stand several days +before using, and will keep an indefinite time.</p> + +<p>The pies should be made of good puff paste for the upper crust and tart +paste for the under one, the edge having three layers as directed on +page <a href="#PIES_451">451</a>. The filling of mince meat should be one and a half inches +thick. Paint the top crust with egg and trace with a pointed knife some +simple design on it, cutting the paste very slightly. Bake for one hour +and a quarter. Glaze the top by sifting a very little powdered sugar +over it a few minutes before removing it from the oven.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CREAM_PIE_455" id="CREAM_PIE_455"></a>CREAM PIE</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>3 eggs.</li> + <li>1 cupful of sugar.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of baking-powder.</li> + <li>1 cupful of flour.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Sift the flour and baking-powder together; beat the yolks and sugar +together; add the flour and lastly the whipped whites of the eggs. Bake +this cake mixture in two layers, and place between them when cold, and +just before serving, a thick layer of whipped cream. Have the top piece +covered with a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_456" id="Page_456">[456]</a></span> boiled icing, or use between the cakes a cream filling +made as follows:</p> + +<h5 class="heading">CREAM FOR FILLING.</h5> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>2½ cupfuls of milk.</li> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls of flour.</li> + <li>¾ cupful of sugar.</li> + <li>1 egg.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of vanilla.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Scald the milk; turn it onto the beaten egg; return it to the fire; add +the flour moistened with a little milk, and the sugar, and stir until +thickened. Let it cool before adding it to the cake. Serve with whipped +cream if desired.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COCOANUT_PIE_456" id="COCOANUT_PIE_456"></a>COCOANUT PIE</h4> + +<p>Line a tin basin which is two inches deep with pie paste, and bake it as +directed for tart pies (page <a href="#TART_PIES_452">452</a>). Make a custard of one pint of milk, +three egg-yolks, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, and two tablespoonfuls +of corn-starch. Scald the milk and turn it onto the yolks and sugar +beaten together; return it to the fire; add the corn-starch moistened +with cold milk, and stir until well thickened; add one half teaspoonful +of vanilla, and the whites of two eggs whipped to a froth; cook one +minute to set the egg, then remove, and when nearly cold and stiffened +stir in the half of a grated cocoanut. Brush the bottom of the baked +pie-crust with white of egg; cover it with a thin layer of grated +cocoanut and turn in the thickened custard. Cover the top with meringue +made with the white of one egg. Return it to the oven one minute to +color the meringue. Let the pie stand long enough to get firm and cold +before serving. If the grated cocoanut is not added until the custard +has stiffened, it will not sink to the bottom.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CRANBERRY_PIE_456" id="CRANBERRY_PIE_456"></a>CRANBERRY PIE</h4> + +<p>Chop one cupful of cranberries and a half cupful of seeded raisins +together into small pieces; add to them a cupful of sugar, a half cupful +of water, a tablespoonful of flour, and a teaspoonful of vanilla. Bake +with an upper and under crust. This resembles cherry pie.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_457" id="Page_457">[457]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="WASHINGTON_PIE_457" id="WASHINGTON_PIE_457"></a>WASHINGTON PIE</h4> + +<p>Make two round layer cakes, of sponge or of Genoese cake; spread between +them a layer of pastry cream or of chocolate filling. Dust the top with +powdered sugar in crossed lines to imitate strips of pastry.</p> + +<p><i>Pastry Cream</i>—Boil with a pint of milk or water five tablespoonfuls of +sugar; add two tablespoonfuls of corn-starch, the yolks of five eggs, +and a tablespoonful of butter; stir until thickened, add flavoring, and +when partly cool spread it on the cake.</p> + +<p><i>Chocolate Filling</i>—Mix a half cupful of milk and a cupful of sugar, +and stir until the sugar is dissolved; then add an ounce of shaved +chocolate, and the beaten yolks of two eggs; stir until it is thickened; +flavor with one half teaspoonful of vanilla, and let it partly cool +before spreading it on the cake.</p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="PUFF-PASTE_457" id="PUFF-PASTE_457"></a>PUFF-PASTE</h3> + + +<p><span class="smcap">It</span> is a mistake to consider the making of puff-paste too difficult for +any but an experienced cook to undertake. No one need hesitate to +attempt it, and if the few simple rules are strictly observed there will +be success. The materials are few and inexpensive, and within the +compass of the most moderate household. If light, good pastry can be +substituted for the sodden crust of the ordinary pie, it will be found +not only more palatable, but far more digestible and wholesome. +Confections of puff-paste can be served on all occasions, and always +make an acceptable dish, whereas ordinary pastry is excluded from any +but the most informal service.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="GENERAL_RULES_457" id="GENERAL_RULES_457"></a>GENERAL RULES</h4> + +<p>The most important rule for making puff-paste, and the secret of +success, is to have cold paste and a hot oven. It is well to have a +marble slab to roll it on, but this is not positively<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_458" id="Page_458">[458]</a></span> essential. A +warm, damp day should be avoided. The paste will keep on ice for a day +or two before it is baked, and for several days in a dry place after it +is baked, and if placed in the oven for a few moments just before +serving, it will have the same crispness as when just baked. If there is +no room colder than the kitchen to work in when mixing the paste, stand +by an open window or in a current of air, for it is necessary to keep +the paste cold during the whole time of preparing it. Use pastry flour +if convenient (Plant’s St. Louis Flour). It can be obtained at all +first-class grocers. It has a very fine grain, and can easily be +distinguished from ordinary flour by rubbing a little between the thumb +and forefinger.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RECEIPT_FOR_PUFF-PASTE_458" id="RECEIPT_FOR_PUFF-PASTE_458"></a>RECEIPT FOR PUFF-PASTE</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>½ pound or 1 cupful of butter.</li> + <li>½ pound or 2 cupfuls of flour.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>¼ to ½ cupful of ice-water.</li> +</ul> + +<p>1st. Put the butter in a bowl of ice-water, and work it with the hand +until it becomes smooth and flexible; then place it in a napkin and +knead it a little to free it from moisture. Pat it into a flat square +cake, and place it on the ice until ready to use.</p> + +<p>2d. Sift the flour and salt together on a board or marble slab; reserve +a little flour to be used for dusting the slab. Make a well in the +center, and pour in a part of the water. Work in the flour, and use +enough water to make a smooth paste. The exact amount of water cannot be +given, as at certain times the flour absorbs more than at others. Gather +in all the crumbs, and work the paste as you would bread dough until it +becomes smooth. Roll it in a napkin, and place it on ice for fifteen +minutes, that it may become thoroughly cold.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 422px;"> +<a name="illus-458-f-1" id="illus-458-f-1" href="images/illus-458-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-458-f-1.jpg" width="422" height="202" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">THREE PANS ARRANGED FOR CHILLING PUFF PASTE—THE UPPER +AND UNDER ONES HOLDING CRACKED ICE, THE CENTER ONE HOLDING THE PASTE +WRAPPED IN A NAPKIN.</span> +</div> + +<p>3d. Sprinkle the slab lightly with flour. Roll the cold paste into a +square piece; place the cold butter in the center, and fold the paste +over it, first from the sides and then the ends, keeping the shape +square, and folding so the butter is completely incased, and cannot +escape through the folds when<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_459" id="Page_459">[459]</a></span> rolled. This must be absolutely guarded +against at all times, and can be prevented if the paste is rolled evenly +and folded properly. Turn the folded side down, and with a rolling-pin +roll it lightly away from you into a long, narrow strip, keeping it as +even as possible. Fold it over, making three even layers of paste. This +is called “giving it one turn”; then roll the folded strip again, and +fold as before. This must be repeated until it has had six turns, which +is as many as it should receive to give it its greatest lightness. After +each turn, if it shows signs of softening, otherwise after each two +turns, wrap the paste in a napkin, and place it in a pan, which should +be placed between two other pans containing cracked ice, and let it +remain there twenty to thirty minutes. Great care must be used in +rolling the paste to keep the edges even, so that the layers will be +even, and to roll lightly and always away from you, so as not to break +the air-bubbles which give the lightness to the paste. The rolling is +made easier by lightly pounding as well as rolling the paste. After each +folding press the edges gently with the rolling-pin to shut in the air, +and turn the paste so as to roll in a different direction. The paste +should slip on the slab. If it does not, it sticks, and must be put on +the ice at once. When it has had six turns cut it into the desired +forms, and place again on the ice for twenty to thirty minutes before +putting it in the oven. The trimmings, put together and rolled, make a +good bottom crust for tart bands, or a top crust for mince pies.</p> + +<p>The baking of puff-paste is as important a matter as the rolling. The +oven must be very hot, with the greatest heat at the bottom, so the +paste may rise before it begins to brown; therefore put it on the bottom +of the oven and lay a paper on the shelf for a few minutes. Do not open +the door for the first five minutes. It is essential to have the oven +very hot. It must not, however, scorch the paste, and if it scorches +open the draughts at once, and place a basin of ice-water in the oven to +lower the temperature. The amount given in this receipt makes about six +pâté shells or one vol-au-vent case.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_460" id="Page_460">[460]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PATE_SHELLS_460" id="PATE_SHELLS_460"></a>PÂTÉ SHELLS</h4> + +<p>Roll puff-paste which has had six turns to a quarter-inch thickness; cut +it into circles with a fluted or plain cutter two and a quarter inches +in diameter. It should be icy-cold when cut, for if it sticks on one +side it will not rise evenly. From one half the circles cut a hole in +the center with a cutter one inch in diameter. Moisten the edges of the +whole circles, and place on them the rings. Brush over the top with egg. +(This is to glaze them, and the egg must not touch the edges.) Place +them on the ice for half an hour, then bake in hot oven for twenty +minutes. Bake the small circles cut from the center on a separate tin, +as they do not require as much time; when baked pick out from the center +any uncooked paste. Use the small pieces for covers after the cases are +filled. If preferred, roll the paste one half inch thick, and with the +small cutter cut half-way through the paste. When baked lift off the +inner circle, and remove the uncooked paste from the interior.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 423px;"> +<a name="illus-458-f-2" id="illus-458-f-2" href="images/illus-458-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-458-f-2.jpg" width="423" height="196" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">PÂTÉ SHELLS.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TART_BANDS_460" id="TART_BANDS_460"></a>TART BANDS</h4> + +<p>Make a good short paste, using the receipt for tart paste. Roll it one +eighth inch thick, and cut it into a circle six inches in diameter, +using a basin for guide. Wet the edges and lay around it a band of +puff-paste cut in a strip one and one half inches wide and one quarter +inch thick. Place the strip neatly and carefully around the edge, using +care not to press it; cut the edges that are to join in a sharp diagonal +line, and moisten them so they will adhere. Prick the bottom crust in +many places with a fork to prevent its puffing up; brush the top of the +band with egg, but do not let the egg touch the edges; let it rest on +ice for half an hour, then bake in hot oven thirty to forty minutes.</p> + +<p>When ready to serve fill it with jam, preserves, purée, or any other +mixture used for tart pies.</p> + +<p>These tarts are very good, and can be served where pies would not be +admissible.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_461" id="Page_461">[461]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MILLEFEUILLES_461" id="MILLEFEUILLES_461"></a>MILLEFEUILLES</h4> + +<p>Roll puff-paste turned six times to the thickness of one half inch; cut +it with a pastry wheel into pieces three inches long and one inch wide. +Brush the tops of the pieces with egg, and sprinkle them with sugar. Let +them stand on ice one half hour, and then bake in a hot oven for twenty +minutes, or until well browned; these are served in place of cakes. Or, +cut the paste three and a half inches long and two inches wide, and when +baked place two pieces together with a thin layer of apricot jam between +them, and cover the top with meringue. These are served as a dessert +dish for luncheon.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TARTLETS_461" id="TARTLETS_461"></a>TARTLETS</h4> + +<p>Cut puff-paste into rings the same as for pâté shells. Use tart paste +for the under crust. After they are baked fill the center with +pineapple, with any preserves, or with apple purée covered with apricot +jam.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PAGANINI_TARTLETS_461" id="PAGANINI_TARTLETS_461"></a>PAGANINI TARTLETS</h4> + +<p>Roll puff-paste one eighth inch thick; cut it with a pastry wheel into +squares of three and a half to four inches. Turn the points together in +the middle, and press them down lightly. Bake; then put a spoonful of +jam in the center of each, and cover the jam with meringue; place them +in the oven a moment to brown.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TO_GLAZE_PASTRY_461" id="TO_GLAZE_PASTRY_461"></a>TO GLAZE PASTRY</h4> + +<p>Take an egg and one tablespoonful of water, and beat the egg enough to +break it, but not enough to make it froth. The yolk alone may be used +with the water, but the white alone will not give it color. Brush it +lightly over the pastry, using a brush or quill-feather, and dust it +with a very little sugar. This will give a brown and polished surface to +the pastry.</p> + +<p>When two layers of pastry are to be stuck together, brush the top of one +with water, and lay the other on it before baking them.</p> + + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_462" id="Page_462">[462]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="Chapter_XXI" id="Chapter_XXI"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter XXI</span><br /> +<br /> +CAKE</h2> + + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Baking.</b></span> <span class="smcap">The</span> most difficult part of cake-making is the baking. Unless +the oven is right, the cake will be a failure, no matter how +carefully it may have been mixed.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="RULES_462" id="RULES_462"></a>RULES</h4> + +<p>Have everything ready before beginning to mix the cake.</p> + +<p>Have the weights and measures exact.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Fire.</b></span> Have the fire so it will last through the baking, and the +heat of the oven just right (see <a href="#Tests_for_the_oven_465">below</a>), for on this the +success of the cake mostly depends.</p> + +<p>Do not mix the cake until the oven is entirely ready for it +to go in.</p> + +<p>Sift the flour before measuring it.</p> + +<p>If baking-powder or cream of tartar is used, sift it with +the flour.</p> + +<p>Mix in an earthen bowl with a wooden spoon.</p> + +<p>Beat the yolks and whites of the eggs separately.</p> + +<p>Grease the tins with lard, as butter blackens.</p> + +<p>For some cakes it is better to line the pans with paper.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Fruit.</b></span> When fruit is used, roll it in flour, and add it the last +thing.</p> + +<p>If the fruit is wanted in layers, add it while the mixture +is being poured into the tins.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Salt.</b></span> Add one quarter teaspoonful of salt to all cakes.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_463" id="Page_463">[463]</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Sugary crust.</b></span> If a sugary crust is wanted, sprinkle the top with sugar +before the cake is baked.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Cause of cracking.</b></span> If the cake cracks open as it rises, too much flour has been +used.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Uneven rising.</b></span> If it rises in a cone in the center, the oven is too hot.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Beating.</b></span> Beating eggs and butter makes them light, beating flour +makes it tough; hence the rule to add it last.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Adding white of egg.</b></span> When the whipped whites are added do not stir, but turn or +fold them in lightly, so as not to break the air-cells.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Pans, how filled.</b></span> In filling the pans let the mixture be a little higher on +the sides than in the middle.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Soda and baking powder.</b></span> When molasses is used, baking-powder (also cream of tartar) +must be omitted, and soda alone used for raising the cake.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Equivalents.</b></span> One teaspoonful of baking-powder is the equivalent of one +teaspoonful of cream of tartar, and one half teaspoonful of +soda.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="HOW_TO_BEAT_EGGS_463" id="HOW_TO_BEAT_EGGS_463"></a>HOW TO BEAT EGGS</h4> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Whites.</b></span> Place the whites on a flat dish, being careful that not a +particle of the yolk gets in. Add a pinch of salt, and with +a daisy beater held flat whip the whites with an upward +motion to a stiff, dry froth. It will take but a very few +minutes if the eggs are fresh and cold. <span class="sidenote"><b>Yolks.</b></span> Put the yolks in an +earthen bowl, and with a wooden or silver spoon beat them +until a lemon color. If sugar is used add it at this time, +and stir until the whole becomes light and creamy.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="HOW_TO_LINE_TINS_WITH_PAPER_463" id="HOW_TO_LINE_TINS_WITH_PAPER_463"></a>HOW TO LINE TINS WITH PAPER</h4> + +<p>Turn the tin bottom side up, lay over it the paper, and +crease the circle for the bottom. Cut the paper in several +places down to the circular mark, fold it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_464" id="Page_464">[464]</a></span> around the pan, +and cut away the paper that doubles over. Grease the paper, +and fit it neatly inside the pan, leaving an inch of paper +rising above the edge.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 419px;"> +<a name="illus-466-f-1" id="illus-466-f-1" href="images/illus-466-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-466-f-1.jpg" width="419" height="196" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">CAKE TINS AND BAKING SHEET.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="HOW_TO_GREASE_PANS_464" id="HOW_TO_GREASE_PANS_464"></a>HOW TO GREASE PANS</h4> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Flouring tins.</b></span> Warm the pan, and with a brush spread evenly the lard or +cottolene. For flat tins to be used for small cakes, brush +them lightly with oil; then with a paper or cloth rub them +dry, and sprinkle with flour. Jar them so the flour will +completely cover them; then turn over the tins, and strike +them against the table. All the superfluous flour will fall, +leaving the tins lightly coated with flour. This will give a +clean surface to the bottom of the cake.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="HOW_TO_BAKE_CAKE_464" id="HOW_TO_BAKE_CAKE_464"></a>HOW TO BAKE CAKE</h4> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Rising.</b></span> The oven should be only moderately hot at first, so that the +cake can get heated through, and can rise before forming a +crust; the heat should then be increased, so that when the +cake has been in the oven one half the time required for +baking a light crust will be formed. It should rise evenly, +and be smooth on top. When it rises in a cone in the center +it is because the oven is too hot, and a crust has formed on +the edges before it has had time to rise. Sometimes it rises +on one side, showing the oven is hotter on one side than +the other, in which case it should be turned or a screen +interposed; but it must be done with the greatest care. Moving +or jarring the cake before the air-cells are fixed is almost +sure to cause it to fall. Do not open the oven door for the +first five minutes, and then open and shut it very gently, +so as not to jar the cake. <span class="sidenote"><b>Time.</b></span> Cake takes from fifteen minutes +to an hour to bake, according to its kind and thickness. A +hotter oven is needed for a thin cake than for a thick one. +It is done when it shrinks from the pan, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_465" id="Page_465">[465]</a></span> makes no singing +noise; or when a broom straw run into it comes out clean and +smooth. Be sure the cake is done before removing it from the +oven. Let it stand a few minutes in the tin, and it will then +come out easily. Always handle the cake carefully.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Tests_for_the_oven_465" id="Tests_for_the_oven_465"></a><b>Tests for the oven.</b></span> The following test for the oven is given by Miss Parloa. Put +in a piece of white paper. If at the end of five minutes +the paper is a rich yellow color, the oven is right for +sponge-cake; if light yellow, it is too cool; if dark brown, +too hot. For pound or butter-cakes, it should be light yellow +at the end of five minutes. For gingerbreads and thin rolled +cakes, it should be dark brown.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="MIXING_SPONGE-CAKES_465" id="MIXING_SPONGE-CAKES_465"></a>MIXING SPONGE-CAKES</h4> + +<p>Cream the yolks and sugar together. Add the flavoring and +water; then fold in the beaten whites, and lastly the flour, +sprinkling it in, and lightly folding, not stirring it in. +If baking-powder is used, it is mixed with the flour.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="MIXING_CAKE_MADE_WITH_BUTTER_465" id="MIXING_CAKE_MADE_WITH_BUTTER_465"></a>MIXING CAKE MADE WITH BUTTER</h4> + +<p>Rub the butter until it is light and smooth. Add the sugar, +and stir until creamy. If there is too much sugar to mix +with the butter, beat one half with the yolks of the eggs. +Add the beaten yolks to the creamed butter and sugar. (If +only a little butter is used melt it, and add it to the +yolks and sugar.) Next add the flavoring, and then the milk +and flour alternately, until all are in. Beat the batter a +few minutes to give it fine grain; then fold in the whipped +whites of the eggs lightly. If fruit is used, flour and add +it the last thing. Turn it into the pans, and put it at once +into a moderate oven.<a name="FNanchor_465-1_14" id="FNanchor_465-1_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_465-1_14" class="fnanchor">465-*</a></p></div> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_466" id="Page_466">[466]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SPONGE-CAKE_No_1_466" id="SPONGE-CAKE_No_1_466"></a>SPONGE-CAKE No. 1</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>6 eggs.</li> + <li>3 cupfuls of sugar.</li> + <li>4 cupfuls of flour.</li> + <li>1 cupful of cold water.</li> + <li>2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder.</li> + <li>Juice and grated rind of 1 lemon.</li> + <li>¼ teaspoonful of salt.</li> +</ul> + +<p>In this cake the beaten whites are added last. The baking-powder mixed +with the flour is added to the yolks, sugar, and flavoring. This is a +good cake to use for layer-cakes or rolls. It is sufficient for two +loaves.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SPONGE-CAKE_No_2_466" id="SPONGE-CAKE_No_2_466"></a>SPONGE-CAKE No. 2</h4> + +<p>Weigh any number of eggs; take the same weight of sugar and one half the +weight of flour; the grated rind and juice of one lemon to five eggs. +For mixing this cake, see the directions given <a href="#MIXING_SPONGE-CAKES_465">above</a>; the mixture should +be very light and spongy, great care being used not to break down the +whipped whites. The oven should be moderate at first, and the heat +increased after a time. The cake must not be moved or jarred while +baking. The time will be forty to fifty minutes, according to size of +loaf. Use powdered sugar for sponge-cake. Rose-water makes a good +flavoring when a change from lemon is wanted. Almonds chopped fine mixed +in the cake, and also orange rind grated over the cake before it is +frosted, are good.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SPONGE-CAKE_No_3_466" id="SPONGE-CAKE_No_3_466"></a>SPONGE-CAKE No. 3</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>10 eggs.</li> + <li>1 pound of powdered sugar.</li> + <li>½ pound of flour.</li> + <li>Juice and grated rind of ½ lemon.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Beat the yolks and sugar together for at least half an hour. It will not +be right unless thoroughly beaten; add the lemon, then the whites beaten +very stiff, and the flour last; sprinkle the top with sugar. Put it at +once into a moderate oven. This is a moist cake and has a thick crust.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_467" id="Page_467">[467]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="WHITE_SPONGE_467" id="WHITE_SPONGE_467"></a>WHITE SPONGE, OR ANGEL CAKE</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>Whites of 6 eggs.</li> + <li>¾ cupful of granulated sugar.</li> + <li>1 cupful of flour.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of vanilla.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of cream of tartar.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Put the cream of tartar into the flour and sift it five or six times; +sift the sugar twice. Put a pinch of salt with the whites of the eggs +and whip them very stiff; add the sugar to the whipped whites, placing +it on the end of the platter and gradually beating it in from below; add +the flour in the same way, and lastly add the flavoring. Do not stop +beating after the mixing is begun, and keep the mixture light. Bake it +in a perfectly bright ungreased pan, or one lined with paper; a pan with +a tube in the center is best. Bake in a moderate oven thirty to forty +minutes. Do not move or jar it while it is baking. Try it with a +broom-straw before removing it from the oven, and do not let it get too +deeply colored. Let it stand in the pan a few minutes, then loosen it +around the sides, and it will fall out. Turn the cake upside down and +ice the bottom and sides if desired. The usual receipt is double the +above quantities, eleven eggs being used, but this one gives a cake +large enough to serve six people, and as it should be used while it is +very fresh, it is better not to make more than enough to serve once. It +can be made with five eggs and is very good, but not quite as spongy. Do +not cut the cake, but break it apart with two forks.<a name="FNanchor_467-1_15" id="FNanchor_467-1_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_467-1_15" class="fnanchor">467-*</a></p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SUNSHINE_CAKE_467" id="SUNSHINE_CAKE_467"></a>SUNSHINE CAKE</h4> + +<p>Make the same as angel cake, adding the beaten yolks of two eggs before +putting in the flour.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="GENOESE_CAKE_467" id="GENOESE_CAKE_467"></a>GENOESE CAKE</h4> + +<p>Three eggs, and the same weight of butter, of sugar, and of flour. Beat +the butter and sugar together until very light and creamy; add one +saltspoonful of salt and flavoring (one half teaspoonful of vanilla or +almond, or one table<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_468" id="Page_468">[468]</a></span>spoonful of brandy); then add the eggs one at a +time and beat each one well before adding the next. Beat the mixture for +fifteen to twenty minutes; then stir in lightly the sifted flour and +turn it into a pan, filling it three quarters full. This cake can be +used for layers, rolls, canary pudding, or can be cut into small forms +for fancy cakes. Bake slowly about forty minutes.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="JELLY_ROLLS_468" id="JELLY_ROLLS_468"></a>JELLY ROLLS</h4> + +<p>Make a layer of Genoese, or of sponge-cake No. 1. Put the mixture on the +layer tins in spoonfuls, placing it around the edges; then with a broad +knife smooth it over toward the middle, making it as even as possible. +Another way is to press it through a pastry bag in lines onto the tins. +The layers should be only one half inch thick when baked, and the crust +should not be hard. As soon as it is removed from the oven, and before +it has had time to cool, cut off the hard edges, spread it with currant, +or any jelly or jam, and roll it up evenly; then roll it in a paper and +tie, so it will cool in a round, even shape.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="LAYER_CAKES_468" id="LAYER_CAKES_468"></a>LAYER CAKES: CHOCOLATE, VANILLA, COFFEE</h4> + +<p>Bake Genoese or sponge-cake No. 1 (one half the receipt will give three +layers) in round layer tins, using three for each cake; when baked +spread two of them with filling and pile them one on the other. Trim the +outside with a sharp knife so it will show a white even edge instead of +crust. Cover the top with a soft royal icing made of confectioners’ +sugar and flavored the same as the filling.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CREAM_FILLING_468" id="CREAM_FILLING_468"></a>CREAM FILLING</h4> + +<p>Beat well together the yolks of five eggs, one half cupful of sugar, and +one heaping tablespoonful of cornstarch; dilute it with two cupfuls of +boiling milk, and stir it over the fire until thickened; then remove, +add the flavoring, and let it cool. If coffee flavoring is wanted, use +one half black coffee and one half milk. If chocolate, melt three or +four ounces and add it to the custard.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_469" id="Page_469">[469]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHOCOLATE_FILLING_469" id="CHOCOLATE_FILLING_469"></a>CHOCOLATE FILLING</h4> + +<p>Melt four ounces of chocolate; dilute it with three tablespoonfuls of +milk, and then add a cupful of sugar mixed with a well-beaten egg, and +stir until thickened.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ORANGE_CAKE_469" id="ORANGE_CAKE_469"></a>ORANGE CAKE</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>Whites of 9 eggs.</li> + <li>2 cupfuls of granulated sugar.</li> + <li>3 heaping cupfuls of flour sifted three or four times.</li> + <li>1 cupful of butter.</li> + <li>1 cupful of milk.</li> + <li>2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Cream the butter; add the sugar, and beat for ten minutes; add the milk, +and then add alternately the whipped eggs and the flour, the +baking-powder having been sifted with the flour; add the lemon-juice +last, and mix all lightly. Bake in layer tins; spread the layers with +orange filling and frost the top with royal icing flavored with +orange-juice and a little lemon.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ORANGE_FILLING_469" id="ORANGE_FILLING_469"></a>ORANGE FILLING</h4> + +<p>Beat the whites of two eggs to a stiff froth. Boil one and one quarter +cupfuls of sugar with one half cupful of water to the small ball (see +page <a href="#DEGREES_OF_BOILING_SUGAR_512">512</a>). Pour the boiling sugar in a very fine stream onto the whipped +whites, beating hard all the time. Add the grated rind and juice of one +orange and continue to beat until it is cold and the sugar is stiffened +enough to place between the cakes without running.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PISTACHIO_CAKE_469" id="PISTACHIO_CAKE_469"></a>PISTACHIO CAKE</h4> + +<p>Make three layers of cake after the receipt given for orange cake. Make +a cream filling as directed for layer cakes. Flavor it with +orange-flower water and a little bitter almond, to give the flavor of +pistachio (see page <a href="#Pistachio_flavor_391">391</a>), and color it a delicate green. Frost the top +with a soft royal icing (page <a href="#ROYAL_ICING_WITH_CONFECTIONERS_SUGAR_484">484</a>) made of confectioners’ sugar; color +it a delicate light green and sprinkle the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_470" id="Page_470">[470]</a></span> top with chopped pistachio +nuts. This cake is rather soft and creamy, and should not be cut before +going on the table.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PLAIN_CUP_CAKE_470" id="PLAIN_CUP_CAKE_470"></a>PLAIN CUP CAKE</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>½ cupful of butter.</li> + <li>1½ cupfuls of sugar.</li> + <li>1 cupful of water or milk.</li> + <li>3 cupfuls of flour.</li> + <li>2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder.</li> + <li>4 eggs.</li> + <li>Juice and rind of 1 lemon.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Beat the butter and sugar to a cream; add the beaten yolks; then add +slowly the water and three quarters of the flour. Beat it a long time +until very smooth and light; then add the lemon and the rest of the +flour in which the baking-powder is mixed; beat well together, and +lastly add the whipped whites of the eggs. Bake in gem-pans, putting a +tablespoonful of the mixture into each pan. Raisins may be added to this +cake, or two ounces of melted chocolate may be used instead of the +lemon-juice, making it chocolate cake; or it may be made into spice +cakes by using two tablespoonfuls of molasses with enough water to give +one cupful of liquid; add also one half teaspoonful each of ground +cloves, cinnamon, and allspice, and a few currants if desired; use one +teaspoonful of soda instead of the baking-powder if molasses is used. +Bake in a moderate oven about one half hour, and see that the cakes rise +evenly and are of the same size. Turn them out of the pans bottom side +up, and frost the bottom and sides with royal icing while they are still +warm. For chocolate or spice cakes, use chocolate icing.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 422px;"> +<a name="illus-466-f-3" id="illus-466-f-3" href="images/illus-466-f-3-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-466-f-3.jpg" width="422" height="200" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">PLAIN CUP CAKES ICED AND SMALL PIECE OF ANGELICA PLACED +IN CENTER OF EACH CAKE.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="GOLD-AND-SILVER_CAKE_470" id="GOLD-AND-SILVER_CAKE_470"></a>GOLD-AND-SILVER CAKE</h4> + +<p>Use the receipt given for plain cup cake. Divide the materials; use the +whites of the eggs with one part, the yolks and one whole egg with the +other. Bake in separate tins; cut before serving; arrange the slices +with the two colors alternating on a lace paper.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MARBLE_CAKE_470" id="MARBLE_CAKE_470"></a>MARBLE CAKE</h4> + +<p>Make a mixture as directed for plain cup cake; divide it into three +parts; color one with carmine, another with melted choco<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_471" id="Page_471">[471]</a></span>late (one +ounce), and leave the third one white. Do this quickly, so the +baking-powder will not lose its force before going into the oven. Pour +the mixtures into a tin, alternating the colors twice; they will run +together and make a mottled cake.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RICHER_CUP_471" id="RICHER_CUP_471"></a>RICHER CUP; OR, 1, 2, 3, 4 CAKE</h4> + +<p>Use one cup of butter, two of sugar, three of flour, and four eggs, and +one half teaspoonful of vanilla. Mix as directed for butter-cake +mixtures (page <a href="#MIXING_CAKE_MADE_WITH_BUTTER_465">465</a>).</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="POUND-CAKE_471" id="POUND-CAKE_471"></a>POUND-CAKE</h4> + +<p>Use one pound each of butter, sugar, and flour; ten eggs; one quarter +teaspoonful of mace and one half cupful of brandy. Mix as directed for +butter-cake mixtures. Divide it into two loaves and bake in tins lined +with paper forty to fifty minutes in a moderate oven. This cake may be +filled with sliced citron and raisins if desired, or may have nuts mixed +with it, making a nut cake, or some nuts may be sprinkled over the top +before it goes in the oven.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="WHITE_CAKE_471" id="WHITE_CAKE_471"></a>WHITE CAKE</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>Whites of 6 eggs.</li> + <li>¾ cupful of butter.</li> + <li>1¼ cupfuls of powdered sugar.</li> + <li>2 cupfuls of flour.</li> + <li>Juice of half a lemon.</li> + <li>¼ teaspoonful of soda.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Sift the soda with the flour three times; cream the butter and add the +flour to it; whip the eggs to a stiff froth and add the sugar, then beat +them gradually into the butter and flour, and add the lemon-juice. When +it is thoroughly mixed and smooth put it into a biscuit or flat tin, so +it will make a layer one and a half inches thick when done. Bake it in a +moderate oven; while it is still warm spread it with royal icing (see +page <a href="#ROYAL_ICING_483">483</a>). Before the icing fully hardens, mark two lines down the +length of the cake, dividing it into three sections, then across in even +lines, giving slices one inch broad and about two and a half inches +long; to do this hold over it a straight edge and mark it with the back +of a knife. Put into a pastry bag some of the frosting, made a little +stiffer with sugar, and place two dots of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_472" id="Page_472">[472]</a></span> icing on each slice. This +cake may be made with baking-powder, using one teaspoonful and mixing it +in the usual way. It will then be a lighter cake and should be baked in +a loaf; the first gives a firm, fine-grained cake.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PLAIN_FRUIT_CAKE_472" id="PLAIN_FRUIT_CAKE_472"></a>PLAIN FRUIT CAKE</h4> + + + +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" summary="ingredients"> +<tr> + <td class="vmid" rowspan="2">1</td> + <td class="bt bl bb" rowspan="2"> </td> + <td>¾ cupful of butter.</td> + <td class="bt br bb" rowspan="2"> </td> + <td class="vmid" rowspan="2">Cream these together well.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>2 cupfuls of granulated sugar.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>2</td> + <td class="bt bl bb"> </td> + <td colspan="3">3 eggs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="vmid" rowspan="4">3</td> + <td class="bt bl bb" rowspan="4"> </td> + <td colspan="3">1 teaspoonful of allspice.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="3">½ teaspoonful of grated nutmeg.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="3">⅓ teaspoonful of ground cloves.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="3">¼ teaspoonful of ground mace.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>4</td> + <td class="bt bl bb"> </td> + <td colspan="3">1 cupful of milk with ¾ teaspoonful of soda dissolved in it.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>5</td> + <td class="bt bl bb"> </td> + <td colspan="3">3 cupfuls of sifted flour with 1 teaspoonful of cream of tartar + mixed in it.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="vmid" rowspan="2">6</td> + <td class="bt bl bb" rowspan="2"> </td> + <td colspan="3">1 cupful of sliced citron.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="3">2 cupfuls of raisins.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>Mix the materials in the order given, beating well each one before the +next is added; add part of the flour and the milk at the same time, then +the rest of the flour. Flour the fruit and add it last. More fruit can +be used if desired. This will make one large or a dozen small cakes. +Bake in a moderate oven about one hour if in one cake.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BROD_TORTE_472" id="BROD_TORTE_472"></a>BROD TORTE</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>9 eggs.</li> + <li>2½ cupfuls of sugar.</li> + <li>2 cupfuls of bread-crumbs—Graham preferred.</li> + <li>2 teaspoonfuls of ground cinnamon.</li> + <li>Citron size of small egg.</li> + <li>¾ cupful of blanched almonds.</li> + <li>Grated rind of one lemon.</li> + <li>¼ cupful of brandy or rum.</li> + <li>2½ ounces of chocolate.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of ground allspice.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Put into a bowl the bread-crumbs, dried and pounded fine, the citron and +almonds both chopped fine, the spices and lemon-<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_473" id="Page_473">[473]</a></span>rind and the +chocolate grated fine; mix them thoroughly and evenly together. In a +second bowl put the yolks of the nine eggs and whites of five with one +and one half cupfuls of sugar. Beat them until quite stiff. In a third +bowl put the whites of four eggs; beat them to a stiff froth; then stir +in the remaining cupful of sugar. Now gradually and lightly mix the dry +ingredients of bowl No. 1 with No. 2; then add the whites from No. 3. +Lastly, add the brandy or rum, and quickly put it into the oven to bake +for three quarters of an hour. Cover with chocolate icing, and decorate +with lines of white icing.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 424px;"> +<a name="illus-472-f-1" id="illus-472-f-1" href="images/illus-472-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-472-f-1.jpg" width="424" height="198" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">ICED CAKE DECORATED WITH CANDIED CHERRIES CUT IN HALVES, +ANGELICA CUT INTO TRIANGULAR PIECES, AND A SCALLOPED LINE OF ICING.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 425px;"> +<a name="illus-472-f-2" id="illus-472-f-2" href="images/illus-472-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-472-f-2.jpg" width="425" height="198" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">CAKE COVERED WITH CHOCOLATE ICING AND ORNAMENTED IN +CENTER WITH LINES OF WHITE ICING.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 422px;"> +<a name="illus-472-f-3" id="illus-472-f-3" href="images/illus-472-f-3-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-472-f-3.jpg" width="422" height="196" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">CAKE ORNAMENTED WITH A MEDALLION IN CENTER FORMED BY A +RING OF CANDIED PLUMS CUT IN QUARTERS AND STOOD ON EDGE. THE CENTER OF +THE CIRCLE IS COVERED WITH BOILED ICING AND DECORATED WITH CANDIED +CHERRIES AND ANGELICA. THE CAKE OUTSIDE THE MEDALLION IS BRUSHED WITH +WHITE OF EGG AND THEN COVERED WITH BLANCHED ALMONDS CUT IN THIN SLICES.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRUIT_CAKE_473" id="FRUIT_CAKE_473"></a>FRUIT CAKE</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 pound of flour.</li> + <li>1 pound of sugar.</li> + <li>1 pound of butter.</li> + <li>½ pound of candied citron <a name="corr34" id="corr34"></a>(sliced).</li> + <li>4 pounds of currants.</li> + <li>4 pounds of raisins (stoned and chopped).</li> + <li>9 eggs.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of ground cinnamon.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of mace.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of nutmeg.</li> + <li>3 gills of brandy.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Mix the fruit together and flour it; mix the spices with the sugar. +Cream the butter and sugar; add the beaten yolks, then the whipped +whites and the brandy, then the flour, and lastly the fruit. Put the +mixture in two large tins lined with double paper, and bake in a +moderate oven for three hours. If preferred, add the sliced citron in +layers as the mixture is poured into the pans. One pound of chopped +almonds may be substituted for one of the pounds of currants. This cake +will keep any length of time, therefore the quantity may not be too +great to make at one time.</p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="CREAM_CAKES_AND_ECLAIRS_473" id="CREAM_CAKES_AND_ECLAIRS_473"></a>CREAM CAKES AND ÉCLAIRS</h3> + + +<p><span class="smcap">These</span> are made of cooked paste, and are very easy to prepare. The cream +cakes differ from the éclairs only in form and in not being iced.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_474" id="Page_474">[474]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CREAM_CAKES_474" id="CREAM_CAKES_474"></a>CREAM CAKES</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 cupful of water.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of sugar.</li> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls of butter.</li> + <li>1½ cupfuls of flour (pastry flour preferred).</li> + <li>3 to 4 eggs.</li> + <li>½ saltspoonful of salt.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Put the water, sugar, salt, and butter in a saucepan on the fire. When +the butter is melted remove; add to it the flour, and beat until it is a +smooth paste; return it to the fire, and stir vigorously until the paste +leaves the sides of the pan; then remove; let it partly cool, and then +add the eggs, one at a time, beating each one for some time before +adding the next. When all are in, beat until the batter is no longer +stringy. It should be consistent enough to hold its shape without +spreading when dropped from the spoon on a tin. Three eggs make it about +right unless they are very small or the flour very dry. The batter is +better if it stands for an hour or two before being used; but this is +not essential. Put the mixture into a pastry-bag with a tube of one half +inch opening; press the batter through into balls one and a half to two +inches in diameter. A spoon can be used, but does not give the cakes as +good shape. Brush the tops with egg. Put them in a slack oven and bake +slowly for about forty minutes. They will feel light when done, and be +puffed very high. Oil and flour the pans or baking-sheets as directed on +page <a href="#HOW_TO_GREASE_PANS_464">464</a>. When the puffs are cool make an incision in the side and fill +with cream filling as given for layer cakes, page <a href="#CREAM_FILLING_468">468</a>. The whipped +whites of the eggs may be added to this filling if it is wanted thinner +and lighter.</p> + +<p>These cakes are good made very small, filled with jam and a little +whipped cream, and the tops dipped in sugar boiled to the crack, then +sprinkled with chopped burnt almonds.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHOCOLATE_VANILLA_AND_COFFEE_ECLAIRS_474" id="CHOCOLATE_VANILLA_AND_COFFEE_ECLAIRS_474"></a>CHOCOLATE, VANILLA, AND COFFEE ÉCLAIRS</h4> + +<p>Make a mixture as for cream cakes; put it into a pastry-bag with a tube +of three eighth inch opening. Press the batter onto<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_475" id="Page_475">[475]</a></span> tins (floured as +directed for cream cakes) in strips three and one half inches long, and +a little distance apart, the same as lady-fingers. Egg the tops and bake +in a slack oven about thirty minutes. Cut open one side and fill with +cream filling made the same as for cream cakes. Make a chocolate icing +No. 2 (page <a href="#CHOCOLATE_ICING_No_2_485">485</a>); dip the éclairs into it, covering them one half. For +vanilla or coffee éclairs use fondant icing, page <a href="#FONDANT_ICING_485">485</a>. Flavor the +filling with vanilla or coffee, the same as the icing.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CAROLINES_475" id="CAROLINES_475"></a>CAROLINES</h4> + +<p>Make small éclairs two inches long, using a tube with opening no larger +than a pencil. When baked run a wooden skewer through them, leaving an +opening at each end, so the filling will go all the way through. Put the +filling in a bag, and press it through the carolines. Cover the top with +fondant icing. Have the filling flavored with coffee.</p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="FANCY_SMALL_CAKES_475" id="FANCY_SMALL_CAKES_475"></a>FANCY SMALL CAKES</h3> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MERINGUES_AND_KISSES_475" id="MERINGUES_AND_KISSES_475"></a>MERINGUES AND KISSES</h4> + +<p><span class="smcap">Add</span> a half saltspoonful of salt to the whites of three eggs; beat them, +and add gradually, while whipping, three quarters of a cupful of +powdered sugar. Continue to beat until the mixture is smooth and firm +enough to hold its shape without spreading when dropped in a ball; add +the flavoring of lemon-juice or any essence. Place the meringue in a +pastry-bag and press it through a tube into balls of the size desired +onto strips of paper laid on a board that will fit the oven. With a wet +knife flatten down the point on top left by the tube, and sprinkle them +with sugar. Put them into a very slack oven, and let them dry for at +least an hour; then remove from the papers and either press in the +bottoms or scoop out the soft center and turn them over to dry inside. +If small kisses, it is better to give them plenty of time to dry, so +none of the center has to be taken out. They can be removed to the warm +shelf if the oven is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_476" id="Page_476">[476]</a></span> giving them too much color. They should be only +slightly colored on top and dried all the way through. For large +meringues to be filled with cream, use one and a half tablespoonfuls of +meringue for each piece. Make them an oblong shape. Place them in an +oven hot enough for cake and watch them closely until they have formed a +light-colored crust; then remove and take out the soft center or press +in the bottom, and turn them over to dry inside. These meringues may be +dried like the kisses, but take longer time, as they are larger. When a +board is not at hand the papers holding the meringues may be laid in +biscuit-tins, a second tin placed like a cover over the top, and set on +the shelf over the range for several hours. This serves very well where +the fire is too great for the ovens to be cool. There is no difficulty +in making meringues if the eggs are sufficiently whipped. They soon +become stiff when whipped after the sugar is in. They must be dried +rather than baked. If the meringues stick to the paper turn them over, +slightly moisten the paper, and it will soon come off. Make kisses small +and stick two together with white of egg. When very small they are good +with a little jam or jelly between them. Large meringues can be filled +with ice-cream or with whipped cream just before serving them, and two +placed together.</p> + +<p>One quarter cupful of powdered sugar is needed for the white of each +egg.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 419px;"> +<a name="illus-478-f-2" id="illus-478-f-2" href="images/illus-478-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-478-f-2.jpg" width="419" height="203" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">1. SMALL KISSES. (SEE PAGE <a href="#MERINGUES_AND_KISSES_475">475</a>.)<br /> + +2. MADELEINES—ROUND, SQUARE, DIAMOND-SHAPED, AND CRESCENTS, EACH ONE +ICED AND GARNISHED WITH PIECE OF ANGELICA CUT THE SAME SHAPE AS THE +CAKE. (SEE PAGE <a href="#MADELEINES_No_1_477">477</a>.)</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="LADY-FINGERS_476" id="LADY-FINGERS_476"></a>LADY-FINGERS</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>6 eggs.</li> + <li>½ pound or 1¼ cupfuls of powdered sugar.</li> + <li>¼ pound or 1 cupful of sifted flour.</li> + <li>½ saltspoonful of salt.</li> + <li>Flavoring of vanilla, lemon, or orange-flower water.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Beat the yolks and sugar to a light cream; add the flavoring. Stir in +lightly the flour and then the whites of the eggs whipped very firm; the +salt is added to the whites before being whipped. Have a sheet of paper +on the baking-pan or sheet. Place the mixture in a pastry-bag, and press +it through a tube having an opening one half to three quarter inch +wide.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_477" id="Page_477">[477]</a></span> Have the strips four and a half inches long. Cut off the paste +from the tube with a knife so the ends will be clean; dust them with +sugar and bake in a moderate oven ten to twelve minutes, or until a +light crust has formed. The crust should not be colored. When done, +stick two together, using white of egg.</p> + +<p><i>For Biscuit Balls.</i>—Drop the mixture in balls one half inch in +diameter, and bake the same as fingers. Stick two together with a little +jam between them.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MACAROONS_477" id="MACAROONS_477"></a>MACAROONS</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>½ pound of almonds.</li> + <li>Whites of 4 eggs.</li> + <li>1¼ cupfuls of powdered sugar.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Pound the blanched almonds to a paste, adding a teaspoonful of +rose-water to keep them from oiling; add also the sugar, a little at a +time, while pounding the almonds; add a few drops of almond essence and +the whipped whites of the eggs; beat thoroughly together. Drop the +mixture in balls one half inch in diameter on strips of paper, using a +pastry-bag. If not stiff enough to hold their shapes without spreading, +add one tablespoonful of flour.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COCOANUT_BALLS_477" id="COCOANUT_BALLS_477"></a>COCOANUT BALLS OR CONES</h4> + +<p>Grate a cocoanut; add to it half its weight of sugar; then stir in the +whipped white of one egg. Boll the mixture into balls or cones, and bake +in a moderate oven twenty to thirty minutes. If the mixture is too soft +to hold its shape, add a very little flour.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MADELEINES_No_1_477" id="MADELEINES_No_1_477"></a>MADELEINES No. 1</h4> + +<p>Make two thin layers of Genoese cake (page <a href="#GENOESE_CAKE_467">467</a>), flavored with brandy; +place them together with a thin layer of jelly or jam between them. Cut +the cake into fancy shapes, such as diamonds, squares, circles, and +crescents, having them not more than one and a quarter to one and a half +inches in diameter, and the same in thickness. Ice them with fondant +(see page <a href="#FONDANT_ICING_485">485</a>),<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_478" id="Page_478">[478]</a></span> flavored with ram, kirsch, or maraschino, or vary the +flavor for the different shapes; or, make the cakes of one layer one and +a quarter inches thick, and ice them on top and sides with royal icing +or with fondant, making it of different colors, pink, green, chocolate, +white, and flavor to correspond. Place in the center of each cake a +currant, bit of candied cherry, piece of angelica, or almond.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MADELEINES_No_2_478" id="MADELEINES_No_2_478"></a>MADELEINES No. 2</h4> + +<p>Take a sponge-cake No. 1, or a Genoese cake mixture, and make it a +little stiffer with flour (enough batter can usually be saved from layer +cake to make a few fancy cakes). With a spoon or pastry-bag drop it in +balls one half inch in diameter; bake, and place two together with a +little jam or jelly between them. Cover them with soft royal icing; have +them all of the same color. If green, use pistachio flavor as directed, +page <a href="#Pistachio_flavor_391">391</a>, and sprinkle the tops with chopped pistachio nuts; if white, +with almonds; if pink, leave them plain, and flavor with rose.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="LITTLE_POUND-CAKES_478" id="LITTLE_POUND-CAKES_478"></a>LITTLE POUND-CAKES</h4> + +<p>Use the Genoese mixture with a few currants added, or the plain +pound-cake mixture. Bake in small tins one and a half inches in +diameter; take care that they rise evenly so they are flat on top. Ice +the top only with any kind of icing.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 415px;"> +<a name="illus-478-f-1" id="illus-478-f-1" href="images/illus-478-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-478-f-1.jpg" width="415" height="198" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">1. SMALL POUND CAKES AND TINS IN WHICH THEY WERE BAKED.<br /> + +2. ORANGE-QUARTER CAKES AND BAKING TIN. (SEE PAGE <a href="#ORANGE_QUARTERS_478">478</a>.)<br /> + +3. SHELL-SHAPED GENOESE CAKES AND BAKING TIN.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ORANGE_QUARTERS_478" id="ORANGE_QUARTERS_478"></a>ORANGE QUARTERS</h4> + +<p>Use the Genoese or any butter-cake mixture, making it quite stiff with +flour; flavor it with lemon- and orange-juice, and add a little of the +grated rind of orange. Drop a small tablespoonful of the cake mixture at +intervals into the tin made for this cake (see <a href="#illus-478-f-1">illustration</a>), and bake +in a moderate oven; cover the wedge-shaped sides of the cakes with soft +royal icing flavored and colored with orange-juice.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ALMOND_WAFERS_478" id="ALMOND_WAFERS_478"></a>ALMOND WAFERS</h4> + +<p>Take one tablespoonful each of flour and powdered sugar and one half +saltspoonful of salt. Sift them well together. Beat<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_479" id="Page_479">[479]</a></span> the white of one +egg just enough to break it, and add as much of it to the flour and +sugar as it will take to make a creamy batter; flavor with a few drops +of almond essence. Grease the pans lightly and flour them as directed on +page <a href="#HOW_TO_GREASE_PANS_464">464</a>. Drop a half teaspoonful of the paste on the pan, and with a +wet finger spread it into a thin round wafer. Bake it in a very moderate +oven until the edges are slightly browned, then, before removing from +the oven door, lift each wafer, and turn it around a stick. They stiffen +very quickly, and the rolling must be done while they are hot.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="VENETIAN_CAKES_479" id="VENETIAN_CAKES_479"></a>VENETIAN CAKES</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>½ cupful of butter.</li> + <li>½ cupful of powdered sugar.</li> + <li>1½ cupfuls of pastry flour.</li> + <li>1 cupful of almonds.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of vanilla.</li> + <li>Yolks of 3 eggs.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Cream the butter and sugar together until very light; add the yolks well +beaten; then the almonds blanched and cut in strips; mix; add the +vanilla and stir in lightly the flour. The dough should be rather soft. +Take a small piece at a time, drop it in powdered sugar, and roll it +between the hands into a ball one inch in diameter. Put a piece of +pistachio nut on the top. Place the balls a little distance apart on +floured pans (see page <a href="#HOW_TO_GREASE_PANS_464">464</a>), and bake in a moderate oven ten to fifteen +minutes, or to a pale color. They will flatten in baking and have the +shape of macaroons.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="GAUFFRES_479" id="GAUFFRES_479"></a>GAUFFRES</h4> + +<p>This receipt was obtained in Paris, and makes the little cakes one sees +for sale at all the French fêtes, and also on the sea-beaches, where the +vender calls so cheerily, “Voici les plaisirs.” They are baked in a kind +of small waffle-iron. The plaisirs are rolled as soon as taken from the +iron.</p> + +<p>Add a dash of salt to the whites of six eggs, and whip them to a stiff +froth. Put a half pound of flour in a bowl, and add enough water to make +a thin batter; flavor it with vanilla, then add the whipped whites of +the eggs. Bake one gauffre to see<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_480" id="Page_480">[480]</a></span> if the batter is of the right +consistency. It should be very thin, and water can be added until it is +right. Have the iron hot, and grease it well with butter or oil. Pour in +the batter, and let it run evenly into all the grooves; close the iron, +and bake on both sides over hot coals. The iron must be very clean, +smooth, and well greased, or the gauffres will stick. Dredge them with +powdered sugar as soon as baked.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 425px;"> +<a name="illus-466-f-2" id="illus-466-f-2" href="images/illus-466-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-466-f-2.jpg" width="425" height="193" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">GAUFFRE IRON. (SEE PAGE <a href="#GAUFFRES_479">479</a>.)</span> +</div> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="JUMBLES_COOKIES_AND_PLAIN_CAKES_480" id="JUMBLES_COOKIES_AND_PLAIN_CAKES_480"></a>JUMBLES, COOKIES, AND PLAIN CAKES</h3> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="JUMBLES_480" id="JUMBLES_480"></a>JUMBLES</h4> + +<p><span class="smcap">Beat</span> to a cream one cupful of butter with two cupfuls of sugar. Add +three eggs, the yolks and whites beaten separately; then the flavoring. +Stir in lightly enough flour to make a paste just firm enough to roll +thin. Cut it into circles, and with a smaller cutter stamp out a small +circle in the middle, leaving the jumbles in rings. Place them in a +floured pan, brush the tops with white of egg, and sprinkle with pounded +loaf sugar. The sugar should be in small lumps. Bake in a moderate oven +to a light color.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SAND_TARTS_480" id="SAND_TARTS_480"></a>SAND TARTS</h4> + +<p>Make the mixture given for jumbles. Cut it into squares or diamonds, +place them in floured pans, brush the top with white of egg. Sprinkle +with granulated sugar mixed with ground cinnamon. Place a piece of +blanched almond in the center of each one.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ROLLED_JUMBLES_480" id="ROLLED_JUMBLES_480"></a>ROLLED JUMBLES</h4> + +<p>Make a mixture as directed for jumbles, using only enough flour to make +a thin batter. Drop a teaspoonful of batter for each cake on a floured +pan. In the oven it runs out into a thin cake, so leave plenty of room +for the batter to spread. As soon as the edges begin to brown lift the +cakes, and at the oven door roll them around a stick. Leave them in the +oven a few moments longer to dry.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_481" id="Page_481">[481]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PLAIN_COOKIES_481" id="PLAIN_COOKIES_481"></a>PLAIN COOKIES</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 cupful of butter.</li> + <li>2 cupfuls of sugar.</li> + <li>1 cupful of milk.</li> + <li>2 eggs.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of vanilla.</li> + <li>Flour.</li> + <li>2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Mix in the order given. Use enough flour to roll the dough thin. Cut it +into circles, and bake in a moderate oven. Brush the tops with white of +egg, and sprinkle them with sugar. Caraway seeds may be mixed with the +dough, or sprinkled over the tops if liked. For soft cookies do not roll +the dough so thin. Stamp them out with a fluted cutter, and remove them +from the oven as soon as baked, not leaving them to dry as for crisp +cookies.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="GINGER_SNAPS_481" id="GINGER_SNAPS_481"></a>GINGER SNAPS</h4> + +<p>Put a half cupful of butter and a cupful of molasses on the fire; as +soon as the butter is softened remove them, and add a half cupful of +brown sugar, a teaspoonful of ginger, and a teaspoonful of soda +dissolved in a little hot water; then mix in enough flour to make a +stiff dough. Roll it very thin, and stamp it into circles.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CRULLERS_481" id="CRULLERS_481"></a>CRULLERS</h4> + +<p>Beat three eggs together; add four tablespoonfuls of sugar and four +tablespoonfuls of melted butter or lard; then enough flour to make a +dough stiff enough to roll. Roll it a quarter of an inch thick. Cut it +into pieces three and a half inches long and two inches broad. Cut two +slits in each piece, and give each one a twist. Fry the crullers in hot +fat, the same as doughnuts.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="DOUGHNUTS_481" id="DOUGHNUTS_481"></a>DOUGHNUTS</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>2 eggs.</li> + <li>1 cupful of sugar.</li> + <li>1 cupful of milk.</li> + <li>4 tablespoonfuls of melted butter.</li> + <li>Flour enough to make a soft dough.</li> + <li>1 saltspoonful each of salt and ground cinnamon.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of soda and 1 teaspoonful of cream of tartar, or + 1 teaspoonful of baking-powder.</li> +</ul> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_482" id="Page_482">[482]</a></span>Roll the dough one inch thick. Cut it into small circles, or rings, or +strips and twist them. Drop the cakes into smoking hot fat, and fry to +light brown; drain, and roll them in powdered sugar while still warm.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BREAD_CAKE_482" id="BREAD_CAKE_482"></a>BREAD CAKE</h4> + +<p>Take a piece of raised bread-dough large enough for one loaf. Mix into +it one tablespoonful of butter, one cupful each of sugar, raisins, and +currants; one half teaspoonful each of ground cinnamon, cloves, and +allspice. Let it rise, which will take some time, and bake the same as +bread.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ONE-EGG_CAKE_482" id="ONE-EGG_CAKE_482"></a>ONE-EGG CAKE</h4> + +<p>Cream together a half cupful of butter and a cupful of sugar. Add a +cupful of milk, and one beaten egg; then two cupfuls of flour mixed with +two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. Bake in a moderate oven.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="WARRENS_CAKE_482" id="WARRENS_CAKE_482"></a>WARREN’S CAKE</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>2 eggs.</li> + <li>1 cupful of sugar.</li> + <li>1 cupful of flour.</li> + <li>½ cupful of hot water.</li> + <li>2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Beat the yolks and whites of the eggs together well, add the sugar, then +the flour, in which the baking-powder is mixed, and lastly the water. +Put it into the oven at once.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MOLASSES_WAFERS_482" id="MOLASSES_WAFERS_482"></a>MOLASSES WAFERS</h4> + +<p>Mix well together one cupful of butter, one cupful of sugar, two cupfuls +of molasses, and two cupfuls of flour. Drop a few spoonfuls into a pan, +in different places, and put it in the oven; it will melt and run +together. Let it bake until it begins to harden on the edges; then +remove, cut it into squares, and while it is still hot and soft roll +each piece around a stick.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_483" id="Page_483">[483]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SOFT_GINGERBREAD_483" id="SOFT_GINGERBREAD_483"></a>SOFT GINGERBREAD</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 cupful of molasses.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of butter.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of boiling water.</li> + <li>2 to 3 cupfuls of flour.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful each of ginger, ground cloves, cinnamon, and soda.</li> + <li>½ saltspoonful of salt.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Add the melted butter to the molasses, then the spices. Dissolve the +soda in the boiling water, and stir it into the molasses. Add enough +flour to make a very soft dough—too soft to roll. Bake in a biscuit-tin +lined with paper, in a moderate oven, for thirty-five minutes. Mix it +quickly and put it into the oven at once.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MOLASSES_CAKE_483" id="MOLASSES_CAKE_483"></a>MOLASSES CAKE</h4> + +<p>Put together two cupfuls of New Orleans molasses and one cupful of +butter, and heat them enough to soften the butter; remove from the fire, +and add a teaspoonful each of powdered ginger and cinnamon, and one half +teaspoonful of cloves, then three well-beaten eggs. When it is well +mixed add alternately, in small quantities, three cupfuls of flour and +one cupful of boiling water in which have been dissolved three +teaspoonfuls of baking soda.</p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="ICING_AND_DECORATING_CAKES_483" id="ICING_AND_DECORATING_CAKES_483"></a>ICING AND DECORATING CAKES</h3> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ROYAL_ICING_483" id="ROYAL_ICING_483"></a>ROYAL ICING</h4> + +<p><span class="smcap">Place</span> the white of an egg in a bowl or plate. Add a little lemon-juice +or other flavoring, and a few drops of water. Stir in powdered sugar +until it is of the right consistency to spread. While the cake is still +warm pile the icing on the center of the cake, and with a wet knife +smooth it over the top and sides of the cake. It will settle into a +smooth and glossy surface. If the icing is prepared before the cake is +ready, cover it with a wet cloth, as it quickly hardens. If it becomes +too stiff add a few drops of water, and stir it again. Color and flavor +as desired. One egg will take about a cupful of sugar, and will make +enough icing to cover one cake. If a little more is needed add a little +water to the egg, and it will then take<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_484" id="Page_484">[484]</a></span> more sugar. When icing is +wanted for decorating a cake, beat the whites to a froth, then beat in +the sugar instead of stirring it, and continue to beat until it is firm +enough to hold its form. Stirring more sugar into the unwhipped whites +will make it firm enough for decorating, but the whipped icing is +better. Put it into a pastry-bag with small tube, or into a paper +funnel, and press it through into any shapes desired. A good icing is +made of milk and sugar alone.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ROYAL_ICING_WITH_CONFECTIONERS_SUGAR_484" id="ROYAL_ICING_WITH_CONFECTIONERS_SUGAR_484"></a>ROYAL ICING WITH CONFECTIONER’S SUGAR</h4> + +<p>Make this icing the same as the other, using confectioner’s sugar, which +is finer than the powdered sugar, and use a little water with the egg. +This makes a soft, creamy icing; the more water used, the softer it will +be. If beaten instead of stirred it will become firm enough to hold in +place without so much sugar being used, but in this way it dries sooner +and is not so creamy. This is a good icing for layer cakes, fancy cakes, +and éclairs.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BOILED_ICING_No_1_484" id="BOILED_ICING_No_1_484"></a>BOILED ICING No. 1</h4> + +<p>Put a cupful of sugar into a saucepan with one quarter cupful of boiling +water and a half saltspoonful of cream of tartar; stir till dissolved, +then let it boil without stirring until it threads when dropped from the +spoon. Turn it in a fine stream onto the white of one egg whipped to a +stiff froth. Beat the egg until the mixture becomes smooth and stiff +enough to spread, but do not let it get too cold. Pour it over the cake.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BOILED_ICING_No_2_484" id="BOILED_ICING_No_2_484"></a>BOILED ICING No. 2</h4> + +<p>Boil sugar as directed above to the soft ball; then remove from the +fire, add the flavoring, and stir it until it looks clouded, and turn it +at once over the cake.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHOCOLATE_ICING_No_1_484" id="CHOCOLATE_ICING_No_1_484"></a>CHOCOLATE ICING No. 1</h4> + +<p>Melt in a dry saucepan some chocolate; dilute it with a little water and +add enough powdered or confectioner’s sugar to make it of the right +consistency. Use it while warm, as chocolate quickly hardens. Flavor it +with vanilla.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_485" id="Page_485">[485]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHOCOLATE_ICING_No_2_485" id="CHOCOLATE_ICING_No_2_485"></a>CHOCOLATE ICING No. 2</h4> + +<p>Melt in a dry pan four ounces of Baker’s chocolate, or of cocoa. Boil +one and three quarter cupfuls of sugar with a cupful of water till it +threads when dropped from the spoon, the same as for boiled icing. Turn +it slowly onto the chocolate, stirring all the time. Use this icing for +dipping éclairs and small cakes, and for layer cakes. Chocolate icing +loses its gloss when at all stale.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHOCOLATE_ICING_No_3_485" id="CHOCOLATE_ICING_No_3_485"></a>CHOCOLATE ICING No. 3</h4> + +<p>Melt one ounce of chocolate; dilute it with two tablespoonfuls of milk; +add two tablespoonfuls of sugar and a quarter teaspoonful of butter; +stir till smooth and spread on the cake.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ICING_FOR_SMALL_CAKES_485" id="ICING_FOR_SMALL_CAKES_485"></a>ICING FOR SMALL CAKES</h4> + +<p>Stir into confectioner’s sugar enough syrup of thirty degrees (see page +<a href="#SYRUPS_513">513</a>) to dissolve it; add fruit-juice or liqueur to flavor it. When ready +to use, heat it, stirring all the time, and stand it in a pan of hot +water while the cakes are dipped into it.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COFFEE_ICING_FOR_ECLAIRS_485" id="COFFEE_ICING_FOR_ECLAIRS_485"></a>COFFEE ICING FOR ÉCLAIRS</h4> + +<p>Make the same as the one given above, using very strong coffee or coffee +essence to color and flavor it. Use enough sugar to make a soft flowing +icing, and dip the cakes into it while it is hot.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FONDANT_ICING_485" id="FONDANT_ICING_485"></a>FONDANT ICING</h4> + +<p>This is the best of all icings. It is soft and glossy, and is used +especially for small cakes and éclairs. If the fondant is already made, +it gives very little trouble. To make fondant see page <a href="#TO_MAKE_FONDANT_514">514</a>. It will keep +in tight preserve jars any length of time. Fondant does not work so well +after it has been melted two or three times, therefore it is better to +take only the amount to be used for one flavor or color at a time. Place +it in a cup and stand it in a pan of boiling water. Stir the fondant +constantly while it is melting, or it will become a clear liquid. It +will soften at a low degree of heat; add the flavoring and col<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_486" id="Page_486">[486]</a></span>oring and +dip the cakes into it. If it becomes too hard, add a few drops of syrup +at thirty-four degrees (see page <a href="#SYRUPS_513">513</a>). When liqueurs are used for +flavoring, add a drop or two at a time only, or they will dilute it too +much. Should this occur, add a little more fondant to the cup. +Maraschino, curaçao, kirsch, orange-flower water, rose, almond, and +coffee essences make good flavorings for fancy-cake icings.</p> + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="GARNISHING_CAKES_486" id="GARNISHING_CAKES_486"></a>GARNISHING CAKES</h3> + + +<div class="explanations"><h4 class="section"><a name="WITH_POWDERED_SUGAR_486" id="WITH_POWDERED_SUGAR_486"></a>WITH POWDERED SUGAR</h4> + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> simplest of all garnishings is to sprinkle the cake with +powdered sugar; strips of paper can be laid over the cake +before it is dusted, so as to give lines or squares of white +over the top; <span class="sidenote"><b>In lines or squares.</b></span> stencils for this purpose are easily cut, +giving circles or diamonds.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="WITH_CHOPPED_NUTS_486" id="WITH_CHOPPED_NUTS_486"></a>WITH CHOPPED NUTS</h4> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Almonds, walnuts, or pistachio nuts.</b></span> Brush the cake with white of egg and then sprinkle with nuts +chopped or sliced fine; or the cake may be lightly coated +with a red jelly or jam, and then sprinkled with chopped +nuts.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="WITH_COLORED_SUGARS_486" id="WITH_COLORED_SUGARS_486"></a>WITH COLORED SUGARS</h4> + +<p>Cover the cake with royal icing, and before it hardens +sprinkle it with red and green colored sugar (see page <a href="#To_color_sugar_393">393</a>). +It may be put on in dots or sprinkled evenly over the whole.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="WITH_TWO_COLORS_486" id="WITH_TWO_COLORS_486"></a>WITH TWO COLORS</h4> + +<p>Loaf cake may be iced in sections of alternate colors. To do +this, place a strip of stiff paper upright between the colors +while spreading them, and remove it carefully as soon as the +icing is on. This will give <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_487" id="Page_487">[487]</a></span>a clean, sharp line. Cakes iced +with chocolate or with boiled icing may be ornamented with +fine lines of royal icing.</p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="TO_DECORATE_IN_DESIGNS_487" id="TO_DECORATE_IN_DESIGNS_487"></a>TO DECORATE IN DESIGNS</h3> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Place</span> royal icing in a pastry bag having a tube with small +opening. Press the icing through slowly, following any design +one may have in view. Points may be pricked in the flat icing +at regular intervals as a guide. It requires some practice to +acquire the facility for making very elaborate designs, but +straight lines, dots, and circles around the cake are easy to +make, and with these a great variety of combinations can be +made. Tubes of various-shaped openings are made to give +different forms to the icing pressed through them. <span class="sidenote"><b>To practise elaborate designs.</b></span> If one +cares to practise making fancy decorations, draw a design on a +paper or slab and follow the lines with icing; scrape off the +icing when it is done, and repeat the operation until familiar +enough with the design to be able to make it without a guide.</p></div> + +<div class="footnotes"> +<p><a name="Footnote_465-1_14" id="Footnote_465-1_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_465-1_14"><span class="label">465-*</span></a> Cake made with butter needs to have the dough quite +thick with flour, as the butter when melted acts as a wetting.</p> + +<p><a name="Footnote_467-1_15" id="Footnote_467-1_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_467-1_15"><span class="label">467-*</span></a> If baked too fast this cake will be tough. It is well +to set the cake-pan in a pan of water in the oven.</p> +</div> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_488" id="Page_488">[488]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="Chapter_XXII" id="Chapter_XXII"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter XXII</span><br /> +<br /> +FROZEN DESSERTS</h2> + + +<div class="explanations"><h4 class="section"><a name="ICE-CREAMS_488" id="ICE-CREAMS_488"></a>ICE-CREAMS, WATER-ICES, PARFAITS, MOUSSES, FROZEN FRUITS, +PUNCHES, AND SHERBETS</h4> + +<p><span class="smcap">Frozen</span> desserts are the most acceptable of any that can be +presented in the summer-time, and at any season they are +served and expected at dinner entertainments.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Comparative trouble and expense.</b></span> The trouble of making them is not greater than that of +making any dessert of the same class, and the expense no +more than any dessert using the same amount of eggs and +cream; thus a plain ice-cream is the same as a custard, a +mousse the same as whipped cream, etc.</p> + +<p>Parfaits are especially delicious creams, and as they +require no stirring while freezing are very quickly and +easily made. The freezing of ice-creams which require +stirring is accomplished in twenty to twenty-five minutes, +and is much easier work than beating eggs for cake. In fact, +the whole process of making ice-creams is easier than that +of making cake, but the latter is so generally practised +that nothing is thought of it. It will be the same with +ice-cream if the habit is once formed. They have the +advantage over hot desserts that they require no attention +at dinner-time.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="CLASSIFICATION_OF_ICE-CREAMS_488" id="CLASSIFICATION_OF_ICE-CREAMS_488"></a>CLASSIFICATION OF ICE-CREAMS</h4> + +<p>Philadelphia ice-creams are cream sweetened, flavored, and +stirred while freezing.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_489" id="Page_489">[489]</a></span>French ice-creams are custards of different degrees of +richness stirred while freezing.</p> + +<p><a name="Parfaits_489" id="Parfaits_489"></a>Parfaits, biscuits, and mousses are whipped cream, with or +without eggs, frozen without stirring.</p> + +<p>Water-ices are fruit-juices sweetened with sugar syrup, +stirred while freezing.</p> + +<p>Punches and sherbets are water-ices with liquors mixed with +them either before or after they are frozen.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Fancy creams.</b></span> These creams, in different degrees of richness and with +different flavorings, give an infinite variety, and their +combinations and forms of molding give all the fancy ices.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="GENERAL_RULES_489" id="GENERAL_RULES_489"></a>GENERAL RULES FOR MAKING ICE-CREAMS—TO PREPARE ICE-CREAM +MIXTURES</h4> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="The_cream_489" id="The_cream_489"></a><b>The cream.</b></span> Unless the cream is to be whipped it should be scalded, as it +then gives a smoother and better ice; otherwise it has a raw +taste. It is scalded as soon as the water in the outside +kettle boils. If the cream is too much cooked it will not +increase in bulk when stirred, therefore do not boil the +cream. When whipped cream is used it should be very cold, +whipped to a stiff, firm froth with a wire whip, and the +liquid which drains from it should not be used. (See whipping +cream, page <a href="#WHIPPED_CREAM_408">408</a>.)</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="The_sugar_489" id="The_sugar_489"></a><b>The sugar.</b></span> Ices are much better when the sugar is added in the form of +syrup. (See sugar syrup, page <a href="#SUGAR_SYRUP_503">503</a>; and boiling syrup, page +<a href="#SYRUPS_513">513</a>.) Frozen fruits are smoother when sweetened with syrup, +and water-ices should be made of a thick syrup diluted with +fruit-juice to 20° on the syrup gauge.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Custards_489" id="Custards_489"></a><b>Custards</b></span> In custard creams the milk should be scalded, and when a +little cool stirred into the beaten yolks (the whites of the +eggs are not generally used). The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_490" id="Page_490">[490]</a></span> whole is then placed on +the fire, and stirred continually until it coats the spoon +no longer. The flavoring is then added, and it is beaten +until cold. This makes it light and smooth, and increases +its bulk.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Biscuits_and_parfaits_490" id="Biscuits_and_parfaits_490"></a><b>Biscuits and parfaits.</b></span> For biscuits and parfaits the custard is made of sugar syrup +and yolks of eggs cooked together until it coats the spoon, +and is then beaten until cold.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Freezing_490" id="Freezing_490"></a><b>Freezing.</b></span> <i>Freezing.</i>—Put the ice in a strong cloth or bag, and pound +it quite fine. The finer the ice the quicker will be the +freezing. Snow may be used in place of ice. Use one part of +rock salt (fine salt will not do) to three parts of ice. Rock +salt can be had at feed-stores when not found at grocers'. +Place the can in the freezing pail with the pivot of the can +in the socket of the pail, have the cover on the can, and a +cork in the opening on top. Hold the can straight, and fill +around it three inches deep of ice; then an inch of salt. +Alternate the layers of ice and salt, observing the right +proportions, until the packing rises to within an inch of the +top of the can; pack it down as solid as possible. See that +the can will turn, and be careful not to lift it out of the +socket. Take off the top of the can; put in the paddle, +placing the pivot in the socket at the bottom; then pour +in carefully the ice-cream mixture, which must be perfectly +cold. <span class="sidenote"><b>Time.</b></span> Adjust the tops and crank, and turn it for twenty to +twenty-five minutes, by which time the cream should be frozen. +The crank turns harder when the mixture has stiffened, and it +is not necessary to look in order to know it is frozen. If the +cream is frozen too quickly it will be coarse-grained. To have +it fine-grained it must be turned constantly, and not frozen +in less time than twenty minutes.</p> + +<p><i><a name="Packing_490" id="Packing_490"></a>Packing.</i>—When the cream is frozen take off the crank and +the top of the pail. Wipe carefully the top of the can, and +see that the ice and salt are well be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_491" id="Page_491">[491]</a></span>low the lid, so none +will get into the cream; lift off the top, take out the +paddle, and with a spoon or wooden spatula work down the +cream. <span class="sidenote"><b>Adding fruit, nuts, cream, etc.</b></span> If fruit, whipped cream, or anything is to be added to +the cream, put it in at this time and work it well together. +If the cream is to be molded, remove and place it in the +molds; if not, smooth the top, and make the cream compact with +a potato masher. Replace the top, put a cork in the opening of +the lid, draw off the water in the pail by removing the cork +from the hole in the side of the pail, add more ice and salt. +Cover it with a heavy cloth, and let it stand until ready +to use. <span class="sidenote"><b>Ripening.</b></span> The cream ripens or becomes blended by standing, +so should be made before the time for serving. Look at it +occasionally to see that the water does not rise above the +opening of the can. If properly watched, and if the packing is +renewed as required, the cream can be kept for any length of +time.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Molding_491" id="Molding_491"></a><b>Molding.</b></span> <i>Molding Ice-Creams.</i>—Put the frozen ice-cream into the +mold, filling it entirely full; press it down to force out +any air bubbles. Rub butter around the edge where the lid +fits on. Lay a wet thin paper over the top, and put on the +lid. Fill the edges around the lid with butter or lard. <span class="sidenote"><b>Precaution.</b></span> This +will harden, and make the joints tight. Too much care cannot +be taken to prevent the salt water leaking into the mold. +Imbed the mold in ice and salt for from one to six hours. +Mousses require four to six hours, and parfaits two to three +hours. Watch to see that the water does not rise above the +lid of the mold, and draw it off when necessary.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 422px;"> +<a name="illus-492-f-1" id="illus-492-f-1" href="images/illus-492-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-492-f-1.jpg" width="422" height="242" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">ICE-CREAM MOLDS IN BRICK FORMS AND INDIVIDUAL LEAD +MOLDS.</span> +</div> + +<p><a name="Fancy_Molding_491" id="Fancy_Molding_491"></a><i>Fancy Molding.</i>—When two or more kinds of creams are to be +combined in the same mold, first place the mold in ice and +salt; line it an inch or more thick with one kind of cream, +and fill the center<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_492" id="Page_492">[492]</a></span> with a cream of different flavor and +color. <span class="sidenote"><b>Bombs.</b></span> These are called bombs. Or, place two or more kinds in +even layers. <span class="sidenote"><b><br />Panachée.</b></span> Where two colors are used they are panachée; if +three, they are neapolitan. <span class="sidenote"><b><br /><br />Neapolitan.</b></span> If the colors are to run in +vertical strips, which is desirable in pyramidal molds, cut a +piece of stiff paper or cardboard to the shape of the mold; +fill each side with a different cream, and then withdraw the +paper. Arrange layers of creams so that when unmolded the most +solid one will be at the bottom, as it has the weight of the +others to sustain; for instance, do not put water-ices or +parfaits under French creams. <a name="Individual_creams_492" id="Individual_creams_492"></a><span class="sidenote"><b>Individual creams.</b></span> Biscuits are put into paper +boxes, and individual creams into lead molds. The latter must +be thoroughly chilled, then filled according to fancy or color +suitable to the form. <span class="sidenote"><b>Freezing box.</b></span> They are then closed, and put into a +freezing-box, or into a pail, the joints of the pail tightly +sealed with butter, and packed in ice and salt. A freezing-box +with shelves is desirable to have for these creams, but a +lard-pail answers very well for a small number of molds, as +the lid fits over the outside, and so can be made tight. Molds +packed in this way require to stand longer than those which +come in direct contact with the ice and salt.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Decorating.</b></span> The individual creams have to be frozen very hard, and when +unmolded should be brushed with a little color to simulate +the fruit or flower they represent. Thus, a peach or a pear +would be of French cream, which is yellow in color, and the +sides brushed with a little diluted cochineal to give pink +cheeks, and a piece of angelica stuck in to represent a +stem. A flower would be molded in white cream, and the +center made yellow. A mushroom stem would be dipped in +powdered cocoa, etc.</p> + +<p>Individual creams are perhaps too difficult for an amateur +to undertake, and hardly repay the trouble<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_493" id="Page_493">[493]</a></span> when so many +ornamental creams are more easily made.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Unmolding_493" id="Unmolding_493"></a><b>Unmolding.</b></span> <i>To Unmold Creams.</i>—Dip the mold into cold water; wipe it dry +and invert it on the dish. If it does not come out at once let +it stand a moment, or wring a cloth out of warm water, and +wipe quickly around the mold. This must be done quickly, or +the sharp edges of the molded cream will be destroyed. With +parfaits and mousses it is better not to use a hot cloth, as +they melt very easily. It destroys the attractiveness of ices +to have the dish swimming in melted cream, or to have the mold +soft and irregular in shape, which partial melting produces. +Hence the unmolding of creams requires great care.</p> + +<p><a name="Ornamental_Creams_493" id="Ornamental_Creams_493"></a><i>Ornamental Creams.</i>—A plain ring-mold of ice-cream in any +color can be made an ornamental cream, by filling the center +with berries or with whipped cream for sauce. The whipped +cream may be colored to give pleasing contrast. For instance, +a white ice-cream-ring filled with pink whipped cream and a +few pink roses laid on one side of the dish, or a ring of +pistachio ice-cream filled with white whipped cream or with +strawberries, and a bunch of green leaves laid on one side of +the dish.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 421px;"> +<a name="illus-492-f-2" id="illus-492-f-2" href="images/illus-492-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-492-f-2.jpg" width="421" height="195" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">ICE-CREAM MOLDED IN A RING MOLD, THE CENTER FILLED WITH +WHIPPED CREAM COLORED PINK, AND THE DISH GARNISHED WITH PINK ROSES AND +LEAVES.</span> +</div> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Melon cream.</b></span> A melon mold may be lined with pistachio ice-cream, the center +filled with pink ice-cream mixed with a few small chocolates +to represent seeds, or with French ice-cream, which is yellow, +and mixed with blanched almonds. The surface of the melon when +unmolded is sprinkled with chopped browned almonds to simulate +a rind. This dish may be garnished with leaves.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Spun sugar.</b></span> Spun sugar can be employed to ornament any form of cream. It +may be spread over or be laid around it, and makes a beautiful +decoration.</p> + +<p><a name="Individual_Creams_493" id="Individual_Creams_493"></a><i>Individual Creams</i>, representing eggs or snow-balls, can +be served in a nest of spun sugar. Glacé grapes<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_494" id="Page_494">[494]</a></span> or oranges +can be arranged on the same dish with individual creams +representing peaches and pears, the whole lightly covered with +a little spun sugar.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Combinations.</b></span> Individual ice-creams, representing roses, can be held by +artificial stems, stuck into a rice socle, with natural +roses and leaves interspersed, giving the effect of a +bouquet.</p> + +<p>Individual creams are also served in baskets of nougat or of +pulled candy. The baskets can be ornamented by tying a bunch +of roses with a ribbon on the handle.</p> + +<p>Individual creams representing strawberries are served on flat +baskets, or piled on a flat dish and trimmed with natural +leaves.</p> + +<p>Forms of ice-cream representing animals and vegetables are +in questionable taste, and are not recommended.</p> + +<p>Attention is called to the following creams given in the +receipts, which are especially good:</p> + +<p>The coffee and the chocolate pralinée.</p> + +<p>The white ice-cream, plain or mixed with candied or +preserved chestnuts, or with candied fruits cut into dice.</p> + +<p>The maple parfait, which is quite new.</p> + +<p>Fruit ice No. 2. Chocolate mousse.</p> + +<p>Maraschino, curaçao, and noyau make delicious flavorings for +cream.</p></div> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter">RECEIPTS FOR ICE-CREAMS AND ICES</h3> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="VANILLA_ICE-CREAMS_494" id="VANILLA_ICE-CREAMS_494"></a>VANILLA ICE-CREAMS</h4> + +<h5 class="subrecipe"><a name="NO_1_PHILADELPHIA_ICE-CREAM_494" id="NO_1_PHILADELPHIA_ICE-CREAM_494"></a>NO. 1. PHILADELPHIA ICE-CREAM</h5> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 quart of cream.</li> + <li>½ pound, or 1 cupful, of sugar.</li> + <li>1 vanilla bean or 1 tablespoonful of vanilla extract.</li> +</ul> + +<p>If the cream is very rich dilute it with a little milk, or the ice-cream +will be too rich, and also it may form fine particles of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_495" id="Page_495">[495]</a></span> butter while +being stirred. Put the cream and the sugar into a double boiler and +scald them; when they are cold add the flavoring. If a vanilla bean is +used it should be infused with the cream when it is scalded. Freeze and +pack as directed in general directions, page <a href="#Freezing_490">490</a>.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p><span class="smcap">Note.</span>—Plain vanilla ice-cream is very good served with hot +chocolate sauce. Page <a href="#CHOCOLATE_SAUCE_447">447</a>.</p></div> + +<h5 class="subrecipe"><a name="NO_2_AMERICAN_ICE-CREAM_495" id="NO_2_AMERICAN_ICE-CREAM_495"></a>NO. 2. AMERICAN ICE-CREAM (VERY PLAIN)</h5> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 quart of milk.</li> + <li>1 cupful of sugar.</li> + <li>3 whole eggs,</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of vanilla.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Scald the milk. Beat the eggs and sugar together; stir the scalded milk +into them slowly; replace on the fire in a double boiler and stir +constantly until the custard coats the spoon; do not let it boil, or it +will curdle. Beat it for a little while after taking it off the fire. +When it is cold add the flavoring, and freeze it as directed at head of +chapter.</p> + +<p>Cream will improve this mixture, even if it be only a few spoonfuls. +More eggs, also, will give a richer ice-cream. When the cream is frozen +remove the dasher, press the cream down with a potato-masher to smooth +the top and make it compact, and leave it in the freezer until time to +serve. A few raisins, thin slices of citron, or a little fresh or +preserved fruit may be mixed in when the dasher is removed, and will +much improve the cream.</p> + +<h5 class="subrecipe"><a name="NO_3_FRENCH_ICE-CREAM_495" id="NO_3_FRENCH_ICE-CREAM_495"></a>NO. 3. FRENCH ICE-CREAM</h5> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 pint of milk.</li> + <li>1 pint of cream.</li> + <li>1 cupful of sugar.</li> + <li>6 egg-yolks.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of vanilla extract or of powder, or 1 vanilla bean.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Scald the pint of milk in a double boiler. (It is scalded when the water +in the outside kettle boils). Beat the yolks and sugar together until +light and smooth. Stir the scalded milk slowly into the beaten eggs and +sugar. Put this into a double boiler and cook, stirring constantly until +it thickens enough to coat the spoon. Do not let it boil or cook too +long, or it will curdle. If a vanilla bean is used it should be cut in +two lengthwise and infused with the scalded milk. Remove the custard +from the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_496" id="Page_496">[496]</a></span> fire; add the cream and the flavoring and stir until it is +partly cooled. When cold freeze it as directed at head of chapter.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Note 1.</span>—This makes a solid, fine-grained cream. It can be made with one +quart of cream instead of half milk, and eight to ten eggs may be used +instead of six. The richness depends upon the amount of cream, and the +solidity upon the number of yolks used.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Note 2.</span>—With the whites of the eggs make an angel cake, or keep them +until next day, and make an angel cream (page <a href="#WHITE_OR_ANGEL_ICE-CREAM_497">497</a>), or an angel parfait +(page <a href="#ANGEL_PARFAIT_505">505</a>).</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHOCOLATE_ICE-CREAM_496" id="CHOCOLATE_ICE-CREAM_496"></a>CHOCOLATE ICE-CREAM</h4> + +<p>Use either of the receipts given for vanilla creams, according to the +richness and quality of cream desired; add to the custard while it is +hot four ounces of melted chocolate. To melt the chocolate break it into +small pieces; place it in a small saucepan on the side of the range +where the heat is not great. When it is melted add a very little milk or +custard to dilute and smooth it before adding it to the ice-cream +mixture. Freeze and pack as directed at head of chapter.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CARAMEL_ICE-CREAM_No_1_496" id="CARAMEL_ICE-CREAM_No_1_496"></a>CARAMEL ICE-CREAM No. 1</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 pint of milk.</li> + <li>1 pint of cream.</li> + <li>3 whole eggs.</li> + <li>1½ tablespoonfuls of scraped chocolate.</li> + <li>Caramel.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Scald the milk; add it slowly to the beaten eggs; add the chocolate, and +cook in a double boiler, stirring constantly until the custard coats the +spoon; then add the hot caramel. When the mixture is perfectly cold add +the cream, whipped, and freeze. See <a href="#GENERAL_RULES_489">general directions</a>.</p> + +<p>To make the caramel, put a cupful of sugar with a half cupful of water +into a saucepan; stir until the sugar is dissolved; then, without +touching, let it cook until a golden color—not longer, or it will +blacken. This is the caramel stage, and registers on the thermometer +345° (see page <a href="#DEGREES_OF_BOILING_SUGAR_512">512</a>).</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_497" id="Page_497">[497]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CARAMEL_ICE-CREAM_No_2_497" id="CARAMEL_ICE-CREAM_No_2_497"></a>CARAMEL ICE-CREAM No. 2</h4> + +<p>Add the hot caramel to any of the mixtures given for vanilla creams, +omitting the sugar and vanilla. The caramel supplies both sweetening and +flavoring. It must be mixed with the custards while hot, as it quickly +hardens, and will not then dissolve.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COFFEE_ICE-CREAM_No_1_497" id="COFFEE_ICE-CREAM_No_1_497"></a>COFFEE ICE-CREAM No. 1</h4> + +<p>To any of the receipts given for vanilla cream add a half cupful of +black coffee, and omit the vanilla.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COFFEE_ICE-CREAM_No_2_497" id="COFFEE_ICE-CREAM_No_2_497"></a>COFFEE ICE-CREAM No. 2</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 quart of milk.</li> + <li>1 quart of cream.</li> + <li>½ cupful of very black coffee.</li> + <li>1½ cupfuls of sugar.</li> + <li>½ ounce of isinglass soaked for half an hour in a little of the + cold milk.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Scald the milk; add the coffee and isinglass and sugar. When it is cold +add the cream, whipped, and freeze.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="WHITE_OR_ANGEL_ICE-CREAM_497" id="WHITE_OR_ANGEL_ICE-CREAM_497"></a>WHITE OR ANGEL ICE-CREAM</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>Whites of 6 eggs.</li> + <li>1 cupful of powdered sugar.</li> + <li>1 pint of cream.</li> + <li>Italian meringue made of the whites of 2 eggs and 1 tablespoonful of hot syrup.</li> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls of noyau or of orange-flower water.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Break the whites of the eggs, but do not beat them to a froth; stir into +them the cupful of powdered sugar, and then add the cream. Place it in a +double boiler, and stir until it is scalded, but do not let it boil; +remove from the fire and stir until it is cold, to make it light. When +it is cold add the flavoring, and freeze. When it is frozen remove the +dasher, stir in the Italian meringue, turn it into a mold, and pack in +ice and salt for two or three hours. This cream requires a little longer +to freeze than the other creams.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_498" id="Page_498">[498]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ITALIAN_MERINGUE_498" id="ITALIAN_MERINGUE_498"></a>ITALIAN MERINGUE</h4> + +<p>Whip the whites of eggs to a stiff froth; beat into them slowly some +boiling syrup cooked to the ball. This cooks the eggs enough to prevent +their separating. The syrup is made by boiling sugar and water until, +when a little is dropped into cold water, it will form a ball when +rolled between the fingers.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RICE_ICE-CREAM_498" id="RICE_ICE-CREAM_498"></a>RICE ICE-CREAM</h4> + +<p>Cook a cupful of rice until very soft. Have the juice of a lemon in the +water in which the rice is boiled. When the rice is steamed dry, cover +it with a thick sugar syrup and let it stand for an hour or more. Drain +off the syrup, add a half pint of cream, whipped (this may be omitted if +preferred); stir this into vanilla cream No. 1 or 3, or with angel +ice-cream after it is well frozen. Mold and pack in ice and salt for one +or two hours.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PISTACHIO_ICE-CREAM_498" id="PISTACHIO_ICE-CREAM_498"></a>PISTACHIO ICE-CREAM</h4> + +<p>Blanch two ounces of pistachio nuts; this is done by pouring over them +boiling water: after a few minutes the skins can be easily removed. +Pound the nuts in a mortar to a smooth paste, using a little cream to +prevent their oiling. Add this quantity of nuts to one quart of vanilla +cream mixture No. 3; color it green, the shade of green peas; flavor +with a little orange-flower water, then freeze. When nuts are not +obtainable, the flavor of pistachio can be produced with orange-flower +water and a very little bitter almond.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="NEAPOLITAN_ICE-CREAM_498" id="NEAPOLITAN_ICE-CREAM_498"></a>NEAPOLITAN ICE-CREAM</h4> + +<p>This cream is molded in brick form in three layers of different flavors +and colors. Make a cream after the receipt for vanilla cream No. 3, +using eight or ten yolks, as it should be solid and of fine grain; omit +the vanilla flavoring. Have a pail packed in ice; when the cream is +frozen, remove one third of it to the pail and stir in quickly a little +vanilla, using the vanilla powder<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_499" id="Page_499">[499]</a></span> if convenient; put this into the +brick-shaped mold, also packed in ice, and smooth it down to an even +layer. Take from the freezer one half of the cream remaining in it and +put it into the pail; stir into it one ounce of melted chocolate diluted +and made smooth with a little cream or milk. Place the chocolate cream +in an even layer on the layer of vanilla cream. To the cream remaining +in the freezer add an ounce of pistachio nuts, prepared as directed in +receipt for pistachio cream; color it green and add it to the mold for +the third layer. Seal the joints of the mold with butter to make it very +tight, as directed for molding, page <a href="#Molding_491">491</a>. Pack in ice and salt for +several hours. The molding of this cream must be done quickly, but with +care to have the layers even. Strawberry ice is often used for one of +the layers instead of chocolate cream.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="NESSELRODE_PUDDING_499" id="NESSELRODE_PUDDING_499"></a>NESSELRODE PUDDING</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 cupful of French chestnuts.</li> + <li>1 cupful of granulated sugar.</li> + <li>Yolks of 3 eggs.</li> + <li>½ pint of cream.</li> + <li>¼ pound of mixed candied fruits.</li> + <li>1 cupful of almonds.</li> + <li>½ can of pineapple (drained).</li> + <li>1½ tablespoonfuls of maraschino, or 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry.</li> + <li>½ teaspoonful of vanilla sugar, or ¼ teaspoonful of vanilla extract.</li> +</ul> + +<p>1. Remove the shells from the chestnuts; put them in boiling water for +three minutes, then into cold water, and take off the skins. Boil the +blanched chestnuts until tender. Take one half of them and press them +through a sieve. They will go through more easily while hot.</p> + +<p>2. Blanch the almonds; chop them fine and pound them.</p> + +<p>3. Cut the candied fruits and the chestnuts into dice; pour over them +the maraschino and let them stand until ready to use.</p> + +<p>4. Put into a saucepan on the fire a cupful of granulated sugar and one +quarter cupful of boiling water; stir until the sugar is dissolved, then +let it cook slowly for five minutes, making a sugar syrup.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_500" id="Page_500">[500]</a></span>5. Beat the yolks of three eggs until light. Pour onto them slowly, +stirring all the time, the sugar syrup; place them on the fire and stir +constantly until the mixture is enough thickened to coat the spoon and +has the consistency of thick cream. Remove it from the fire, turn it +into a bowl, and beat it until it is cold. When it is cold add a half +pint of cream, the mashed chestnuts, the pounded almonds, and the +vanilla flavoring, and freeze it. When it is frozen remove the lid of +the freezer, add the fruits, replace the lid, and turn the freezer for +another five minutes. Put the cream into a fancy mold and pack in ice +and salt until ready to use. Serve with it whipped cream, or the sauce +given below for plum pudding glacé flavored with maraschino. This makes +a quart of cream, and, being very rich, is enough to serve to ten +persons.</p> + +<p>Gouffé gives the receipt for this pudding, which he says he obtained +from the chef of Count Nesselrode. He omits the grated almonds, and uses +stoned raisins and currants instead of candied fruits. When the cream is +half frozen he adds a half pint of whipped cream. The raisins and +currants are boiled until plump and added after the cream is frozen, but +before it is packed.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PLUM_PUDDING_GLACE_500" id="PLUM_PUDDING_GLACE_500"></a>PLUM PUDDING GLACÉ</h4> + +<p>Make a chocolate ice-cream as directed on page <a href="#CHOCOLATE_ICE-CREAM_496">496</a>, using the French +ice-cream mixture. Have a scant three quarters of a pound of mixed +fruit, composed of seeded raisins and currants boiled until plump, thin +slices of citron, a few candied cherries and apricots if convenient. +Pour over them a little sherry and let them stand long enough to be a +little softened. When the cream is frozen, drain the fruit and mix it +into the cream, turning the dasher for a few minutes to get it well +mixed and again hardened. Place it in a melon mold and pack in ice and +salt. This will make about two quarts of cream. Serve with a sauce +placed around it on the same dish. The sauce may be whipped cream +flavored with a little kirsch or brandy, or a sauce made as follows.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_501" id="Page_501">[501]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SAUCE_FOR_PLUM_PUDDING_GLACE_501" id="SAUCE_FOR_PLUM_PUDDING_GLACE_501"></a>SAUCE FOR PLUM PUDDING GLACÉ OR FOR NESSELRODE PUDDING</h4> + +<p>Beat the yolks of two eggs with two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar to +a cream. Stir it over the fire in a double boiler until the egg is a +little thickened, but not hard. Continue to beat the egg until it is +cold. It will then be light and creamy; add a tablespoonful of brandy, +or of kirsch, or of rum, or of maraschino; and then mix in lightly a +half pint of cream whipped to a dry, stiff froth.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TUTTI-FRUTTI_501" id="TUTTI-FRUTTI_501"></a>TUTTI-FRUTTI</h4> + +<p>Make a French vanilla ice-cream, page <a href="#NO_3_FRENCH_ICE-CREAM_495">495</a>. Cut into small dice four +ounces each of candied cherries, apricots, and plums; and other fruits +may be used if desired. Let them soak until a little softened in +maraschino, or kirsch, or sherry. When the cream is frozen, stir in the +salpicon of fruit, drained; replace the lid of the freezer and turn it +for five minutes. Turn it into a fancy mold and pack in ice and salt +until ready to use. The angel ice-cream, page <a href="#WHITE_OR_ANGEL_ICE-CREAM_497">497</a>, may be used instead +of the vanilla No. 3 if preferred. Serve with the Tutti-Frutti a sauce +of whipped cream flavored with kirsch, maraschino, or sherry.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRUIT_ICE-CREAMS_501" id="FRUIT_ICE-CREAMS_501"></a>FRUIT ICE-CREAMS</h4> + +<p class="hanging"><a name="Fruit_ice_cream_No_1_501" id="Fruit_ice_cream_No_1_501"></a>No. 1. Berries, or any kind of larger fruit cut into small +pieces, may be added to any of the vanilla creams +after they are frozen. Remove the paddle of the +freezer, mix the fruit in well, then mold and pack in +ice and salt for one or two hours. The fruit will +become too solid if packed for a long time.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><a name="Fruit_ice_cream_No_2_501" id="Fruit_ice_cream_No_2_501"></a>No. 2. Crush any fruit or berries to a pulp. Sweeten it to +taste with a thick sugar syrup (32° on the syrup +gauge). Freeze the same as any ice cream, and pack in +ice and salt if molded. This makes a delicious ice. +Sugar may be used instead of syrup for sweetening, +but the latter gives a better result.</p> + +<p class="hanging"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_502" id="Page_502">[502]</a></span><a name="Fruit_ice_cream_No_3_502" id="Fruit_ice_cream_No_3_502"></a>No. 3. Using canned fruit. Strain the liquor from the +fruit; sweeten it if necessary with sugar or with +syrup. Mix it with an equal quantity of cream, and +freeze. When it is frozen add the drained fruit. Mix +it well together. Mold and pack in ice and salt for +one or two hours. The fruit will become hard if it is +packed too long. Preserved strawberries are a +particularly good fruit to use for ice-cream.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Note</span>.—Strawberries, raspberries, cherries, peaches, apricots, plums, +pineapple, bananas, and oranges are the fruits generally used for ices +and creams.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe">FRUIT PUDDINGS</h4> + +<p class="hanging"><a name="Fruit_puddings_No_4_502" id="Fruit_puddings_No_4_502"></a>No. 4. Line a mold one or one and a half inches thick with +vanilla ice-cream; fill the center with fresh +strawberries, raspberries, whortleberries, peaches, +bananas, or any fruit. Cover the top with cream. Pack +in ice and salt for two hours. The fruit may be mixed +with whipped cream, if convenient, when it is put in +the center of the mold. Whipped cream may also be +served as a sauce with this cream.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="NUT_ICE-CREAMS_502" id="NUT_ICE-CREAMS_502"></a>NUT ICE-CREAMS</h4> + +<p>Vanilla ice cream No. 3, also angel ice-cream, is good with chopped nuts +mixed with it after it is frozen and before it is packed. Boiled +chestnuts cut into small pieces, chopped English walnuts, filberts, +pecan nuts, or almonds may be used. Almonds should be blanched, chopped, +and browned; and a caramel or an almond flavoring is better than vanilla +for the cream when almonds are used.</p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="PARFAITS_502" id="PARFAITS_502"></a>PARFAITS</h3> + + +<p><span class="smcap">This</span> class of ice-creams is very easily made, as they are not stirred +while freezing. The yolks of eggs are cooked with sugar syrup to a thick +smooth cream, then flavored and beaten<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_503" id="Page_503">[503]</a></span> until cold and light, and mixed +with drained whipped cream. They are then simply put into a mold and +packed in ice and salt for three or four hours, according to size of +mold. They are not solid like the custard ice-creams, but have a +sponge-like texture. They should not be frozen too hard. It is because +they have no water in them to crystallize that they do not require to be +stirred while freezing.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SUGAR_SYRUP_503" id="SUGAR_SYRUP_503"></a>SUGAR SYRUP</h4> + +<p>Put two cupfuls of sugar and a half cupful of water into a saucepan on +the fire. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, then let it cook slowly +without touching it for about ten minutes, or until it is a clear syrup. +The syrup can be made in larger quantities and kept in preserve jars +ready for use. To keep well it should be boiled to a rather thick +consistency, or should register 32° on the syrup gauge. For parfaits it +should be thinner or register 20°. For water ices it should register 32° +(see boiling sugar, page <a href="#SYRUPS_513">513</a>).</p> + +<p>In using syrups by measure, articles may be too much sweetened if the +right degree is not designated; but if one has not a syrup gauge the +sweetening must be determined by taste. All classes of ice-creams are +better sweetened with syrup than with sugar. It seems to give them more +smoothness and delicacy.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="VANILLA_PARFAIT_503" id="VANILLA_PARFAIT_503"></a>VANILLA PARFAIT</h4> + +<p>Beat the yolks of eight eggs until light; add one cupful of syrup. Place +the mixture on a slow fire and stir constantly until the eggs have +thickened enough to make a thick coating on the spoon. Turn it into a +bowl and beat it with a whip until it is cold; it will then be very +light. If a vanilla bean is used for flavoring, infuse it with the +syrup; if the extract is used add a teaspoonful of it to the custard +when it is taken from the fire. When the custard is cold add a pint of +cream whipped to a stiff froth. (If any liquid has drained from the +cream do not let it go in.) Stir these lightly together; turn the +mixture into a mold holding three pints. Pack in ice and salt<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_504" id="Page_504">[504]</a></span> for four +hours. Make the joints of the mold very tight as directed for molding at +head of chapter.</p> + +<p>This cream can be varied by using different flavorings in place of the +vanilla: a tablespoonful of curaçao or of noyau, two ounces of chocolate +melted and smoothed with a little cream, etc., etc.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MAPLE_PARFAIT_504" id="MAPLE_PARFAIT_504"></a>MAPLE PARFAIT</h4> + +<p>This is made the same as the vanilla parfait, using maple syrup in place +of the sugar syrup, and omitting the vanilla flavoring. Maple syrup may +be made by adding water to maple sugar and cooking it to the right +consistency.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PARFAIT_AU_CAFE_504" id="PARFAIT_AU_CAFE_504"></a>PARFAIT AU CAFÉ AND CAFÉ PRALINÉ</h4> + +<p>Put the yolks of five eggs into a saucepan; beat them light; add three +tablespoonfuls of sugar syrup and four tablespoonfuls of strong black +coffee. Stir the mixture over a slow fire until it is enough thickened +to make a thick coating on the spoon. Turn it into a bowl and beat it +until it is cold and light. If making coffee praliné, add three +tablespoonfuls of praline powder (see <a href="#PRALINE_POWDER_505">below</a>). Mix in lightly a pint of +cream whipped to a stiff froth. If any liquid has drained from the cream +do not let it go in. Turn the mixture into a mold holding three pints +and pack in ice and salt for four hours.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHOCOLATE_PARFAIT_504" id="CHOCOLATE_PARFAIT_504"></a>CHOCOLATE PARFAIT AND CHOCOLATE PRALINÉ</h4> + +<p>Put the yolks of five eggs into a saucepan; beat them until light; add +three tablespoonfuls of sugar syrup. Cook over a slow fire, stirring +constantly until it makes a thick coating on the spoon. Turn it into a +bowl; add two ounces of melted unsweetened chocolate and beat until it +is cold and light. If making chocolate praliné, add three tablespoonfuls +of praline powder; stir in lightly a pint of cream whipped to a stiff +froth. If any liquid has drained from the cream do not let it go in. +Pack in ice and salt for four hours. This makes three pints of cream.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_505" id="Page_505">[505]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PRALINE_POWDER_505" id="PRALINE_POWDER_505"></a>PRALINE POWDER</h4> + +<p>Put one and a half cupfuls of sugar and a half cupful of water into a +saucepan on the fire; stir until the sugar is well dissolved; then add a +cupful of shelled almonds and a cupful of shelled filberts without +removing the skins. Let it cook, without touching, until it attains a +golden color, the caramel stage. Turn it onto a slab or oiled dish. When +it is cold pound it in a mortar to a coarse powder. Keep the praline +powder in a close preserve jar ready for use.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ANGEL_PARFAIT_505" id="ANGEL_PARFAIT_505"></a>ANGEL PARFAIT</h4> + +<p>Whip the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth. Put a half cupful of +sugar and a half cupful of water into a saucepan on the fire. Stir until +the sugar is dissolved, then let it cook slowly, without touching, to +the ball, or until a little dropped into cold water will form a ball +when rolled between the fingers. Pour three tablespoonfuls of the +boiling-hot syrup slowly onto the whipped whites, beating constantly. +Add a teaspoonful of vanilla, or of maraschino, or of sherry, or of +noyau, or any other flavoring. When the Italian meringue is cold, add a +pint of cream whipped to a stiff froth. Do not let any liquid that has +drained from the cream go into the mixture. Mold and pack in ice and +salt for four hours.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="IMPERATRICE_505" id="IMPERATRICE_505"></a>IMPERATRICE OF RICE PUDDING GLACÉ</h4> + +<p>Boil a scant half cupful of rice in milk and water as directed for +boiling rice, page <a href="#TO_BOIL_RICE_222">222</a>, so each grain will be separate; but it must be +quite soft, so boil it half an hour. This will make a cupful of rice +when boiled. Whip half a pint of cream to a stiff froth; mix into it +four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar and one tablespoonful of noyau or +any flavoring desired; mix the rice lightly with the whipped cream. Turn +it into a mold, and as quickly as possible pack it; leave it in the ice +and salt for three hours.</p> + +<p>This gives about a quart of cream.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_506" id="Page_506">[506]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PARFAITS_OF_CHESTNUTS_506" id="PARFAITS_OF_CHESTNUTS_506"></a>PARFAITS OF CHESTNUTS, CANDIES, FRUITS, FRESH FRUITS, OR BERRIES</h4> + +<p>Make a vanilla parfait as directed, page <a href="#VANILLA_PARFAIT_503">503</a>. When the mixture is ready +to go in the mold add a cupful of boiled chestnuts, or marrons glacé, or +of mixed candied fruits cut into dice. Roll them in powdered sugar so +each piece will be dry and separate and not sink to the bottom. Stir +them in quickly and pack the mold as quickly as possible after the fruit +is mixed <a name="corr35" id="corr35"></a>in. When fresh fruits or berries are used crush the fruit; +strain off the juice; add enough powdered sugar to the pulp to make it +of the same consistency as the whipped cream. Pack in ice and salt for +three hours.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BISCUITS_GLACE_506" id="BISCUITS_GLACE_506"></a>BISCUITS GLACÉ</h4> + +<p>Make a syrup of one cupful of sugar and a quarter cupful of water. Beat +the yolks of four eggs; add to them three quarters of a cupful of syrup +and a half cupful of cream or milk. Place the mixture on the fire and +cook, stirring constantly until it makes a thick coating on the spoon. +Turn it into a bowl; place it on the ice, and beat it until it is cold +and quite stiff and light; then fold in lightly a pint of cream whipped +to a stiff froth. If any liquid has drained from the cream do not let it +go in. For flavoring infuse a vanilla bean with the syrup, or add a +teaspoonful of vanilla extract, or of maraschino, or any flavoring +desired, to the custard when it is taken from the fire. Put the mixture +into paper boxes; sprinkle over the top some chopped browned almonds or +some macaroons rolled to crumbs, and pack. Tin boxes containing a +framework of shelves are made for holding individual ices while +freezing, but a tin lard-pail can be used if necessary, placing a sheet +of paper between each layer of boxes. Securely seal with butter the lid +of the pail and pack in ice and salt for four or five hours.</p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="MOUSSES_506" id="MOUSSES_506"></a>MOUSSES</h3> + + +<p>Whip a pint of cream very stiff; turn it onto a sieve to drain for a few +minutes so it will be entirely dry. Return it to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_507" id="Page_507">[507]</a></span> bowl and whip into +it lightly four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar and a tablespoonful of +curaçao, of noyau, of kirsch, or of very black coffee, or a teaspoonful +of any flavoring extract, or an ounce of chocolate, melted, and diluted +with a little milk or cream, and flavor with a few drops of vanilla. +When a liqueur is used for flavoring less sugar is needed than with +coffee, chocolate, or essences. Turn the cream into a mold and pack it +in ice and salt for four hours. Garnish the dish with small iced cakes.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRUIT_MOUSSES_507" id="FRUIT_MOUSSES_507"></a>FRUIT MOUSSES</h4> + +<p>Whip a pint of cream very stiff and drain as directed above. Mix with it +a cupful of any fruit-pulp, the juice drained off and the pulp mixed +with enough powdered sugar to make it of the same consistency as the +whipped cream; a little cochineal added to strawberry or to peach mousse +gives it a better color. A little vanilla improves the flavor. Mold and +pack in ice and salt for three hours.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="GOLDEN_MOUSSE_507" id="GOLDEN_MOUSSE_507"></a>GOLDEN MOUSSE (Made without Cream)</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>3 eggs.</li> + <li>3 tablespoonfuls of sherry.</li> + <li>½ tablespoonful of lemon-juice.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of syrup with the yolks.</li> + <li>2 tablespoonfuls of syrup with the whites.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Beat the yolks smooth; add a tablespoonful of syrup, and cook, stirring +constantly until the mixture makes a thick coating on the spoon. Remove +from the fire, add the sherry and lemon-juice, and beat it until it is +light and cold; whip the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth; pour into +them slowly two tablespoonfuls of boiling syrup cooked to the ball (see +Italian meringue, page <a href="#ITALIAN_MERINGUE_498">498</a>); add the Italian meringue to the mixture of +yolks, put it into a mold, and pack in ice and salt for four hours. This +mousse can be flavored with a tablespoonful of kirsch, rum, or brandy +instead of sherry. A few white grapes or candied cherries laid in the +bottom of the mold before the mixture is put in, makes the dish more +ornamental.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_508" id="Page_508">[508]</a></span></p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="WATER-ICES_508" id="WATER-ICES_508"></a>WATER-ICES</h3> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Water-ices</span> are made of fruit-juice sweetened with sugar syrup. Sugar may +be used, but the result is better with syrup. The liquid mixture should +register 20° on the syrup gauge, but if one is not at hand, it can be +sweetened to taste.</p> + +<p>A good way of preparing it is to make a syrup of 32° and add enough +fruit juice to dilute it to 20°. Freeze the same as ice-cream, and pack +in salt and ice. The ices will not get so hard as creams. The following +method may also be used:</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ORANGE-ICE_508" id="ORANGE-ICE_508"></a>ORANGE-ICE</h4> + +<p>Boil a quart of water and two and one half cupfuls of sugar for ten +minutes; strain and add the juice of six oranges and one lemon. When +cold, freeze.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="LEMON-ICE_508" id="LEMON-ICE_508"></a>LEMON-ICE</h4> + +<p>Add to the amount of sugar and water given above the juice of four +lemons and one orange.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="STRAWBERRY-ICE_508" id="STRAWBERRY-ICE_508"></a>STRAWBERRY-ICE</h4> + +<p>To a quart of syrup made as given above, add a cupful and a half of +strawberry-juice.</p> + +<p>Ices may be made of any fruit used in the same proportions.</p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="PUNCHES_AND_SHERBETS_508" id="PUNCHES_AND_SHERBETS_508"></a>PUNCHES AND SHERBETS</h3> + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Serving.</b></span> <span class="smcap">These</span> ices are served in glasses after the joint or last +entrée, and before the game. A quart is enough for twelve +portions.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Liquors.</b></span> Punches differ from sherbets only in having a little Italian +meringue added to them just before serving. They are simply +water-ices with liquors added. Roman Punch has a cupful or +two gills of rum added to a quart of lemon-ice. Punches +having other names are made in the same way, but have other +liquors or mixtures of liquors. These may be kirsch,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_509" id="Page_509">[509]</a></span> kirsch +and rum, kirsch and maraschino, rum and sherry, or any other +combination desired. When champagne is used it is generally +added to orange-ice.</p> + +<p>Strawberry, raspberry, pineapple, or orange-ices are generally +used for sherbets with liqueurs such as curaçao, maraschino, +noyau, etc., combined with kirsch, rum, or champagne.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Mixing in the liquors.</b></span> The liquors can be added to the ice mixture before it is +frozen, in which case it takes them longer to freeze; (in +fact, spirits will not freeze at all, and hence these ices are +always soft, and have to be eaten with a spoon); or the +liquors may be poured over the frozen mixture and stirred in +with the paddle. Sometimes the water-ice is placed in the +glasses and a teaspoonful of the liquor or mixture of liquors +is poured over each glassful at the moment of serving.</p></div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COFFEE_PUNCH_509" id="COFFEE_PUNCH_509"></a>COFFEE PUNCH</h4> + +<p>Mix together a quart of black coffee, a cupful of cream, three quarters +cupful of sugar; freeze, and then mix in a half cupful of brandy or rum, +and a half pint of cream, whipped, and let it stand half an hour. Stir +it well before serving.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CAFE_FRAPPE_509" id="CAFE_FRAPPE_509"></a>CAFÉ FRAPPÉ</h4> + +<p>Mix a quart of black coffee with a quart of cream and a cupful of sugar, +or, better, sweeten with syrup. Freeze the same as ice-cream, and serve +in glasses. A little brandy may be mixed in just before serving, if +desired.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="LALLA_ROOKH_509" id="LALLA_ROOKH_509"></a>LALLA ROOKH</h4> + +<p>Make a vanilla cream No. 3. When it is frozen add a cupful of Jamaica +rum. Turn the dasher until it is well mixed.</p> + +<p>Allow a cupful of rum to each quart of cream. Serve in glasses the same +as punch.</p> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_510" id="Page_510">[510]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="Chapter_XXIII" id="Chapter_XXIII"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter XXIII</span><br /> +<br /> +SUGAR AND ITS USES</h2> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BOILING_SUGAR_AND_MAKING_CANDIES_510" id="BOILING_SUGAR_AND_MAKING_CANDIES_510"></a>BOILING SUGAR AND MAKING CANDIES</h4> + +<div class="explanations"><h5 class="subrecipe"><a name="BOILING_SUGAR_510" id="BOILING_SUGAR_510"></a>BOILING SUGAR</h5> + +<p><span class="smcap">To</span> boil sugar is one of the niceties of cooking, but as the +uses of boiled sugar in fancy cooking are so various, it +is worth some practice to acquire the requisite skill. With +the ordinary ways of testing, it requires much experience +to tell the exact point at which to arrest the cooking, +and on this the success depends. The stages named “thread,” +“blow,” “ball,” etc., give the different degrees required +for different purposes. It passes quickly from one to the +other and needs careful watching and close attention. The +professional cook’s method of testing it by dipping in the +fingers is not practicable for ordinary use. It is also +difficult to judge by dropping it in water unless experienced, +but with a sugar thermometer it can easily be determined with +perfect exactness and much less trouble. A sugar thermometer +costs $1.75 or $2.00, a syrup gauge costs fifty cents, and +both should be considered as necessary cooking utensils as are +molds, mortars, and other articles used in fancy cooking. For +measuring syrups, the syrup gauge is used as explained below. +Ice-creams and frozen fruits are much nicer when sweetened +with syrup instead of sugar. Water-ices and compotes to +be right must measure a certain density, and for this the +syrup gauge is employed.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_511" id="Page_511">[511]</a></span> Fondant, one of the very useful +articles, candies, and spun sugar are easily made with the aid +of the thermometer. Eleven stages of sugar are explained +below, but it is not essential to learn exactly more than the +four which are most used, namely: the “thread” for boiled +icing, the “soft-ball” for fondant, the “crack” for glacé +fruit, and the “caramel.”</p></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 329px;"> +<a name="illus-510-f-1" id="illus-510-f-1" href="images/illus-510-f-1-full.png"><img src="images/illus-510-f-1.png" width="329" height="407" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">SUGAR THERMOMETER AND SYRUP GAUGE. (SEE PAGE <a href="#BOILING_SUGAR_510">510</a>.)</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 347px;"> +<a name="illus-510-f-2" id="illus-510-f-2" href="images/illus-510-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-510-f-2.jpg" width="347" height="379" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">UTENSILS FOR BOILING SUGAR.</span> + +<ul class="illus"> + <li>1. Thermometer standing in saucepan of sugar on gas-stove.</li> + <li>2. Cup of water and brush for washing crystals from side of saucepan.</li> + <li>3. Wooden spatula for working sugar on marble slab to make fondant.</li> + <li>4. Wooden skewer for testing sugar when thermometer is not used.</li> + <li>5. Candy wire for dipping nuts or other things to be coated.</li> +</ul> +</div> + +<div class="explanations"><h5 class="subrecipe"><a name="GRANULATION_511" id="GRANULATION_511"></a>GRANULATION</h5> + +<p>The tendency of sugar, when the water which holds it in +solution is evaporated, is to resume its original form of +crystals; to prevent this is the chief care: the liquid must +not be jarred or stirred after the sugar is dissolved. The +grains which form on the sides of the pan as the boiling +proceeds must be wiped away; this is done by dipping a cloth +or brush into water and passing it around the pan above the +sugar. If these crystals are allowed to remain, the whole mass +will become granular. Also the sugar has a great affinity for +water, and care must be used to have a dry atmosphere. No +steam from boiling kettles, etc., must be in the room, and it +is useless to attempt confections requiring the ball or crack +stages on a rainy or damp day. When the right degree is +reached, place the sugar pan in one containing cold water, to +prevent the cooking from proceeding any farther. The different +stages follow very quickly after the thread; it is therefore +well to have a moderate heat and give it undivided attention. +A very little cream of tartar (a scant half saltspoonful to a +pound of sugar) added at the beginning makes the sugar less +liable to grain. If cream of tartar is not used, a few drops +of lemon-juice should be added at the crack stage. If the +sugar passes the degree desired, add a spoonful of water and +continue the boiling. No sugar need ever be wasted unless it +becomes burned. In working the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_512" id="Page_512">[512]</a></span> sugar, if it begins to grain +there is nothing to do but to add a little water and boil it +again.</p> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe"><a name="DEGREES_OF_BOILING_SUGAR_512" id="DEGREES_OF_BOILING_SUGAR_512"></a>DEGREES OF BOILING SUGAR</h5> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>First and second degrees.</b></span></p> + +<table class="syrup" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> + <td>Small Thread, 215°.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Large Thread, 217°.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>Press a little of the syrup between the thumb and finger. A +ring will form and a fine thread be drawn out which breaks +at once and returns to the drop; for the second stage the +thread draws a little farther than the first.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Third and fourth.</b></span></p> + +<table class="syrup" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> + <td>Little Pearl, 220°.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Large Pearl, 222°.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>The sugar forms a thread between the fingers which stretches +long, but breaks. For the fourth it stretches without breaking. +The first four degrees are syrups.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Fifth and sixth.</b></span></p> + +<table class="syrup" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> + <td>The Blow, 230°.</td> + <td class="vmid" rowspan="2"><span class="double">}</span>crystallization.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>The Feather, 232°.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>Dip in a broom-straw twisted to form a small loop at the end. +A film will fill the loop, which will blow into a bubble.</p> + +<p>At the sixth stage fine threads will fly from the bubble. +The candy stages follow:</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Seventh and eighth.</b></span></p> + +<table class="syrup" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> + <td>Small Ball, 236°-238°.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Large Ball, 246°-248°.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>Drop a little into cold water; for the 7th a soft ball can +be rolled between the fingers; for the 8th a hard ball.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Ninth and Tenth.</b></span></p> + +<table class="syrup" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> + <td>Small Crack, 290°.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Crack, 310°.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>At the 9th a little, dropped into water, will break when +cooled. At 300° it begins to assume a light color, and a few +drops of lemon-juice should be added (four drops to a pound of +sugar). At 310° it breaks off sharp and crisp, and crackles +when chewed.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Eleventh.</b></span></p> + +<table class="syrup" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> + <td>The Caramel, 345°-350°</td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_513" id="Page_513">[513]</a></span>It now assumes a yellow color, and great care must be used +or it will burn. The cooking must be arrested as soon as it +is taken from the fire by holding the pan in cold water for +a minute or so. A skewer or stick is the best thing to use +for testing, as the little sugar that adheres to it will +cool quickly. Dip the stick first into water, then into the +sugar, and again into water.</p> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe"><a name="SYRUPS_513" id="SYRUPS_513"></a>SYRUPS</h5> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Syrup kept in stock.</b></span> To use a syrup gauge have a glass deep enough to allow the +gauge to float. A small cylindrical glass like the one shown +in illustration is best, as it requires so little syrup that +removing and pouring it back does not arrest the boiling. +Syrups can be prepared and kept in air-tight preserve jars +until needed for use. It is well to have in stock syrup at 34° +for softening fondant when used for icing cakes, éclairs, etc. +Water-ices should register 18°-20° on the gauge when ready to +freeze. Fruits to be frozen are better when sweetened with +syrup at 32° than when sugar is used.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Making syrup without a gauge.</b></span> To prepare syrup without a gauge the following method can be +employed: Put into a saucepan three and one half cupfuls of +sugar and two and one half cupfuls of water. Stir it over +the fire until the sugar is dissolved. After it has boiled +five minutes, counting from the time it is actually boiling, +it will register 28°; every five minutes’ additional boiling +will thicken it one degree.</p> + +<p>At the end of 15 minutes it is 30°.</p> + +<p>At the end of 25 minutes it is 32°.</p> + +<p>At the end of 35 minutes it is 34°.</p> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe"><a name="FONDANT_513" id="FONDANT_513"></a>FONDANT</h5> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>The uses of fondant.</b></span> Fondant is the basis of all French cream candies. It can be +kept any length of time in air-tight preserve<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_514" id="Page_514">[514]</a></span> jars, and used +as needed for the various purposes which it serves. A great +variety of bonbons can be made of it by using different +flavors, colors, and nuts in various forms and combinations. +Some of these are given under “Candies,” but each one’s +taste may suggest something different. Fondant makes the +nicest icing for small cakes; strawberries with the hulls +on dipped into fondant make a delicious fruit glacé. It will +be found easy to make fondant if the directions given below +are strictly followed.</p> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe"><a name="TO_MAKE_FONDANT_514" id="TO_MAKE_FONDANT_514"></a>TO MAKE FONDANT</h5> + +<p>Place in a copper or a graniteware saucepan two cupfuls of +granulated sugar, one cupful of water, and a scant half +saltspoonful of cream of tartar. Stir until the sugar is +dissolved, but not a minute longer. As it boils, a thin scum +of crystals will form around the edge of the pan. These must +be wiped away by wetting a cloth or brush in water and passing +it around the dish without touching the boiling sugar. This +must be done frequently, or as often as the crystals form, or +the whole mass will become granular. <span class="sidenote"><b>Testing.</b></span> When large bubbles rise +it must be carefully watched and tested, as from this time it +quickly passes from one stage to another. Have a cup of +ice-water and a skewer or small stick; dip it into the water, +then into the sugar, and again into the water. If the sugar +which adheres to it can be rolled into a soft ball, it is +done. This is the stage of small-ball, and the thermometer +registers 236°-238° (see page <a href="#DEGREES_OF_BOILING_SUGAR_512">512</a>). Have ready a marble slab, +very lightly but evenly rubbed over with sweet-oil. If a slab +is not at hand, a large platter will serve the purpose. <span class="sidenote"><b>Cooling.</b></span> The +moment the sugar is done, pour it over the slab and let it +cool a few minutes, or until, pressing it with the finger, it +leaves a dent on the surface. If stirred while too warm it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_515" id="Page_515">[515]</a></span> +will grain. If a crust forms, every particle of it must be +taken off, or else the boiling must be done again, as it shows +it has cooked a little too long. When it will dent, work it +with a wooden spatula, keeping the mass in the center as much +as possible. <span class="sidenote"><b>Working.</b></span> Continue to stir until it becomes a very smooth, +fine, white, creamy paste, which is soft and not brittle and +can be worked in the hands like a thick paste. If the results +are not right and the mass becomes grained, the sugar need not +be wasted, but can be put in the saucepan with a spoonful of +water and boiled again. In stirring the fondant do not mix in +the scrapings unless the whole is still very soft. They can be +worked by themselves afterward. Confectioners use one part of +glucose to ten of sugar and boil to 240°.</p> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe"><a name="SPUN_SUGAR_515" id="SPUN_SUGAR_515"></a>SPUN SUGAR</h5> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Three requisites.</b></span> Although spinning sugar has been called the climax of the art +of sugar work, one need not be deterred from trying it; for +with a dry atmosphere, the sugar boiled to the right degree, +and care given to prevent graining, it can be accomplished. It +is upon these three things alone that success depends. Spun +sugar makes a beautiful decoration for ice-creams, glacé +fruits, and other cold desserts. The expense of making it is +only nominal, but it commands a fancy price.</p> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe"><a name="DIRECTIONS_FOR_SPINNING_SUGAR_515" id="DIRECTIONS_FOR_SPINNING_SUGAR_515"></a>DIRECTIONS FOR SPINNING SUGAR</h5> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Keeping.</b></span> Put in a copper or a graniteware saucepan two cupfuls (one +pound) of sugar; one half cupful of water, and one half +saltspoonful of cream of tartar. Boil the sugar as directed +for fondant above, letting it attain the degree of crack, or +310°. This is the degree just before caramel, and care must be +used. When it has reached the crack, place the sugar pan in +cold<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_516" id="Page_516">[516]</a></span> water a moment to arrest the cooking, for the heat of +the pan and sugar may advance it one degree. For spinning, two +forks may be used, but a few wires drawn through a cork are +better, as they give more points. Have also two iron bars or +rods of any kind (pieces of broom handle will do), placed on a +table or over chairs so the ends project a little way; spread +some papers on the floor under them. Take the pan of sugar in +the left hand, the forks or wires in the right; dip them into +the sugar and shake them quickly back and forth over the rods; +fine threads of sugar will fly off the points and drop on the +rods. If the sugar gets too cold it can be heated again. Take +the spun sugar carefully off the rods from time to time and +fold it around molds, or roll it into nests or other forms +desired. Place the spun sugar under a glass globe as soon as +made. Under an air-tight globe with a small piece of lime it +may keep crisp for a day or two, but it readily gathers +moisture, and it is safer to make it the day it is to be used. +Do not attempt to make it on a damp or rainy day, and have no +boiling kettles in the room (see general directions for +boiling sugar, page <a href="#SYRUPS_513">513</a>).</p> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe"><a name="GLACE_ORANGES_AND_GRAPES_516" id="GLACE_ORANGES_AND_GRAPES_516"></a>GLACÉ ORANGES AND GRAPES</h5> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Causes of failure.</b></span> Divide an orange into sections; do not break the inside +skin, for if the juice escapes in ever so small a quantity +the section must be discarded. Let them stand several hours +until the surface has become very dry. Remove grapes from +the bunch, leaving a short stem attached to each one. Boil +some sugar to 340°, or the point just before the caramel +stage (see directions for boiling sugar, page <a href="#DEGREES_OF_BOILING_SUGAR_512">512</a>). Remove +the pan from the fire and place it for a moment in water to +arrest the cooking. Drop the orange sections into the sugar, +one at a time, and remove them with a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_517" id="Page_517">[517]</a></span> candy wire or with +two forks, and place them on an oiled slab to dry. With a +pair of pincers take each grape by the small stem and dip it +into the sugar, and be sure it is entirely coated. Place +each separately on the slab to dry. If the day is damp, the +sugar not sufficiently boiled, or the fruit at all moist, +the sugar will all drain off; therefore the work must be +done only under the right conditions. Candied cherries may +be treated in this way: first wash them to remove the sugar; +let them dry, then pierce them with an artificial stem and +dip them carefully so as not to deface the stem.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 425px;"> +<a name="illus-516-f-1" id="illus-516-f-1" href="images/illus-516-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-516-f-1.jpg" width="425" height="203" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">GLACÉ ORANGES AND GRAPES IN PAPER BOXES.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 414px;"> +<a name="illus-516-f-2" id="illus-516-f-2" href="images/illus-516-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-516-f-2.jpg" width="414" height="194" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">GLACÉ GRAPES AND ORANGES COVERED WITH SPUN +SUGAR.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 425px;"> +<a name="illus-516-f-3" id="illus-516-f-3" href="images/illus-516-f-3-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-516-f-3.jpg" width="425" height="199" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">GLACÉ GRAPES IN NEST OF SPUN SUGAR.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 417px;"> +<a name="illus-520-f-1" id="illus-520-f-1" href="images/illus-520-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-520-f-1.jpg" width="417" height="200" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">GLACÉ GRAPES COVERED WITH SPUN SUGAR.</span> +</div> + + +<h5 class="subrecipe"><a name="CANDIES_517" id="CANDIES_517"></a>CANDIES</h5> + +<p>When making candies observe carefully the rules for boiling +sugar. When sugar reaches the candy stage, the water has +evaporated, and the tendency is to return to the original +state of crystals. <span class="sidenote"><b>To prevent granulation.</b></span> If it is jarred, or is stirred, or if the +thin line of crystals formed around the pan by the sugar +rising while boiling is allowed to remain, the whole mass +will granulate, hence, for success, it is necessary to avoid +these things. To keep the sides of the pan washed free of +crystals dip a brush in water and pass it around the pan +close to the edge of the sugar as often as is necessary; a +sponge or a small piece of cloth may be used, but with these +there is danger of burning the fingers. A very little acid +added at the crack stage also prevents graining; this is +termed “Greasing.” <span class="sidenote"><b>Greasing.</b></span> If too much acid is used it prevents the +sugar advancing to the caramel stage, and also may cause +granulation. A few drops, only, of lemon-juice, of vinegar, +or a little cream of tartar are the acids used.</p> + +<p>The success of candy-making depends entirely upon boiling +sugar to just the right degree. The candy will not harden if +boiled too little. Another stage,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_518" id="Page_518">[518]</a></span> where it hardens but sticks +to the teeth, means the boiling was arrested at the hard-ball +instead of the crack stage. <span class="sidenote"><b>Making candies.</b></span> Unless a thermometer is used, +a little practice seems necessary before one recognizes +the small differences upon which success depends; but the +experience once gained, it is easy to make a pound or more of +candy at slight expense. In the country, where it is often +impossible to get fresh candies, it is desirable to be able +to make them. Where fondant is already prepared and kept +in preserve jars, the cream bonbons can be quickly made. +Carameled nuts are perhaps the least trouble to make of any +candies.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Marble slab and iron bars.</b></span> A marble slab is almost requisite in making candy, though +greased papers and tins can be used. Candy poured upon a slab +cools quickly, has an even surface, and can be easily removed. +Four square iron bars are useful to confine the sugar. These +can be placed so as to form bays of the size suitable to the +amount of sugar used and the thickness required. +</p></div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="NOUGAT_No_1_518" id="NOUGAT_No_1_518"></a>NOUGAT No. 1 (For Bonbons)</h4> + +<p>Blanch one cupful of almonds. Chop them and place them in the oven to +dry. They must be watched that they do not brown. Put into a saucepan +two and a half cupfuls of powdered sugar and a tablespoonful of +lemon-juice. Place it on the fire and stir with a wooden spoon until it +is melted and slightly colored. Let it stand a few minutes so it will be +thoroughly melted and not grainy, then turn in the hot almonds, mix them +together quickly, not stirring long enough to grain the sugar, and turn +it onto an oiled slab. Spread it out in an even sheet, one eighth of an +inch thick, using a half lemon to press it with. While it is still warm, +mark it off into squares or diamonds. Break it into pieces when cold. +These sheets of nougat can be lifted and pressed into molds, but it +hardens quickly and is not as easy to work as the receipt No. 2.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_519" id="Page_519">[519]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="NOUGAT_No_2_519" id="NOUGAT_No_2_519"></a>NOUGAT No. 2 (For Molding)</h4> + +<p>Put two cupfuls of granulated sugar into a saucepan with a half cupful +of water. Let it boil to the crack (310°) without stirring (see boiling +sugar, page <a href="#Page_511">511</a>), add a few drops of lemon-juice, and then turn in a +half cupful of hot chopped blanched almonds which have been dried in the +oven. Mix them together, stirring only enough to mix them and not grain +the sugar. Pour it on an oiled marble slab, and press it as thin as an +eighth of an inch or less. Cut the sheet of nougat into pieces of the +right size and press them into oiled molds. Do this while the nougat is +only just cool enough to handle, so it will be pliable. Loosen the form +from the mold while it is still warm, but keep it in the mold until +cold. The work has to be done quickly, as the nougat hardens in a few +minutes. Perhaps the first trial to make nougat forms will be a failure, +but a few trials will enable one to accomplish it.</p> + +<p>If any pieces get broken off the molded forms, they can be stuck on +again with liquid sugar or with royal icing. Horns of plenty are +favorite forms for nougat. The molds come of different sizes. These +pieces filled with glacé fruits make very ornamental pieces. The horns +are molded in halves. When the nougat has hardened, the two pieces are +tied together, rested on a muffin ring, and royal icing pressed through +a pastry-tube into any ornamental shape along the edges. This quickly +hardens and binds the horn together. A support for the form is made from +nougat cut into strips and formed into a box-shape, open at one end.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 427px;"> +<a name="illus-520-f-2" id="illus-520-f-2" href="images/illus-520-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-520-f-2.jpg" width="427" height="196" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">HORN OF PLENTY IN NOUGAT FILLED WITH GLACÉ GRAPES.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 419px;"> +<a name="illus-520-f-3" id="illus-520-f-3" href="images/illus-520-f-3-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-520-f-3.jpg" width="419" height="206" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">HORN OF PLENTY IN NOUGAT FILLED WITH GLACÉ ORANGES AND +GRAPES COVERED WITH SPUN SUGAR.</span> +</div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="NOUGAT_No_3_519" id="NOUGAT_No_3_519"></a>NOUGAT No. 3 (Soft White Nougat)</h4> + +<p>Put into a saucepan the whites of three eggs whipped to a stiff froth; +beat into them one pound of heated strained honey, then add a pound of +sugar cooked to the ball, 236°. Continue beating until it attains 290°. +A little of the mixture cooled in water will then crumble between the +fingers. At this stage add a pound of sugar cooked to the crack, 310°, a +pound of whole<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_520" id="Page_520">[520]</a></span> blanched almonds, and a few pistachio nuts. Pour the +mixture into a dish lined with wafers, making the nougat one inch thick. +Cover the top with wafers, and when cold cut it into pieces three inches +long and one inch wide. To make wafers, see receipt for gauffres (page +<a href="#GAUFFRES_479">479</a>); but instead of baking them in the gauffre-iron, spread the mixture +as thinly as possible on an oiled paper and dry in a slow oven without +coloring.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="NOUGAT_No_4_520" id="NOUGAT_No_4_520"></a>NOUGAT No. 4 (Bonbons)</h4> + +<p>Blanch, chop, and dry without coloring one cupful of almonds. Melt one +cupful of powdered sugar with one teaspoonful of lemon-juice, stirring +all the time. When it is thoroughly melted and a delicate color, turn in +the hot almonds. Mix them together and turn into an oiled tin. Press +down the nougat evenly, leaving it an inch thick. Cut it in inch squares +before it becomes hard. This nougat has only enough sugar to bind the +nuts together.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BURNT_ALMONDS_520" id="BURNT_ALMONDS_520"></a>BURNT ALMONDS</h4> + +<p>Put a cupful of brown sugar into a saucepan with a very little water. +Stir until the sugar is dissolved. Let it boil a minute, then throw in a +half cupful of almonds and stir over the fire until the sugar granulates +and is a little browned. When the nuts are well coated, and before they +get into one mass, turn them out and separate any that have stuck +together.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SUGARED_ALMONDS_520" id="SUGARED_ALMONDS_520"></a>SUGARED ALMONDS</h4> + +<p>Put a cupful of granulated sugar in a saucepan with a little water. Stir +until it is dissolved, then let it cook to the ball stage without +touching except to test. Turn in a half cupful of blanched almonds and +stir off the fire until the nuts are well covered with the granulated +sugar, but turn them out before they become one mass. Boil another +cupful of sugar to the ball, turn in the coated almonds and stir again +in the same way, giving them a second coating of sugar, but not leaving +them in the pan until they are all stuck together. The nuts may be given +a third coating in the same way, if a larger size is wanted.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_521" id="Page_521">[521]</a></span>For pink almonds, add a little carmine to the sugar just before putting +in the almonds for the last coating. Any flavoring desired may also be +added at this time.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MARRONS_GLACE_521" id="MARRONS_GLACE_521"></a>MARRONS GLACÉ (Candied Chestnuts)</h4> + +<p>Remove the shells from a dozen or more French chestnuts. Cover them with +boiling water and let them stand a few minutes until the skins can be +removed. Put them again in hot water and simmer slowly until the nuts +are tender, but not soft.</p> + +<p>Put a cupful of sugar and a cupful of water in a saucepan and stir until +dissolved. Add the boiled chestnuts and let them cook in the syrup until +they look clear, then turn them onto a sieve, using care not to break +the nuts, and let them cool. Return the strained syrup to the saucepan +and cook it to the hard-ball stage. Remove it from the fire, add a few +drops of lemon-juice and a half teaspoonful of vanilla extract. Drop the +chestnuts into it, one at a time, turn until thinly coated, and remove +with a candy wire to an oiled paper or slab; or, when the sugar has +reached the ball stage, add a few drops of lemon-juice, let it cool a +few minutes, and then stir until it begins to whiten; then immediately +place in a pan of hot water, flavor with vanilla and stir until it again +becomes liquid, and dip the nuts as directed above.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MARSHMALLOWS_521" id="MARSHMALLOWS_521"></a>MARSHMALLOWS</h4> + +<p>Soak four ounces of gum arabic in a cupful of water until it is +dissolved. Strain it to take out any black specks that may be in the +gum. Put the dissolved gum arabic into a saucepan with a half pound of +powdered sugar. Place the saucepan in a second pan containing boiling +water. Stir until the mixture becomes thick and white. When it begins to +thicken, test it by dropping a little into cold water. When it will form +a firm ball remove it from the fire, and stir into it the whites of +three eggs whipped to a stiff froth. This will give it a spongy texture. +Lastly, flavor it with two teaspoonfuls of orange-flower water. Turn the +paste into a pan covered thick with corn-starch. The layer of paste +should be one inch thick. Too large a pan must<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_522" id="Page_522">[522]</a></span> not be used, or it will +spread and make a thin layer. After the paste has stood twelve hours, +turn it onto a slab and cut it into inch squares, dust them well with +corn-starch or with confectioner’s sugar, and pack in boxes. As the +paste is more or less cooked, it will be more or less stiff. +Marshmallows become harder the longer they are kept, but are best when +as soft as they can be handled.</p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="CARAMELS_522" id="CARAMELS_522"></a>CARAMELS</h3> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHOCOLATE_522" id="CHOCOLATE_522"></a>CHOCOLATE</h4> + +<p><span class="smcap">Put</span> into a saucepan a half cupful each of molasses, of white sugar and +of brown sugar, a cupful of grated chocolate, and a cupful of cream or +milk. Stir the mixture constantly over the fire until it reaches the +hard-ball stage, then add a teaspoonful of vanilla and turn it onto an +oiled slab between iron bars, or into a greased tin, having the paste an +inch thick. Mark it in inch squares and cut before it is quite cold. +Wrap each piece in paraffin paper.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="VANILLA_COFFEE_MAPLE_522" id="VANILLA_COFFEE_MAPLE_522"></a>VANILLA, COFFEE, MAPLE</h4> + +<p>Put into a saucepan one cupful of sugar and three quarters of a cupful +of cream. Stir constantly over a hot fire until it reaches the hard-ball +stage; remove from the fire, add a teaspoonful of vanilla, and turn it +onto an oiled slab between iron bars, or into greased tins, the same as +directed for chocolate caramels. For coffee caramels use a half cupful +of cream and a quarter of a cupful of strong coffee. For maple caramels +use a cupful of maple syrup in place of sugar, and omit the vanilla.</p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="BONBONS_OF_FONDANT_522" id="BONBONS_OF_FONDANT_522"></a>BONBONS OF FONDANT</h3> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="HARLEQUIN_BALLS_522" id="HARLEQUIN_BALLS_522"></a>HARLEQUIN BALLS</h4> + +<p><span class="smcap">Take</span> several small portions of fondant and color each one a different +shade Do this by dipping a wooden toothpick into the coloring matter and +then touching it to the paste. The colors are strong, and care must be +used not to get too much on the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_523" id="Page_523">[523]</a></span> fondant, for the candies should be +delicate in color. For orange balls, color and flavor with orange-juice; +for pistachio, color green and flavor with orange-flower water and then +with bitter almond (see page <a href="#Pistachio_flavor_391">391</a>); for pink, color with carmine and +flavor with maraschino or with rose-water; for chocolate, mix in cocoa +powder and flavor with vanilla; for white, flavor with noyau, peach, or +anything preferred. When liquid flavors are used, if the fondant becomes +too soft, mix in a little confectioner’s sugar; use as little as +possible, as too much gives a raw taste. Work in the flavorings and +colors by hand, and wash the hands between each different color. After +the fondant is prepared, roll it into balls the size of filberts, then +roll them in almonds chopped fine. The nuts improve them, but may be +omitted if desired. Let the balls stand for two or more hours to harden +before putting them together. If the balls are wanted of one color on +the outside, omit the nuts and dip them in liquid fondant colored as +desired.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="NEAPOLITAN_SQUARES_523" id="NEAPOLITAN_SQUARES_523"></a>NEAPOLITAN SQUARES</h4> + +<p>Color and flavor fondant in three colors as directed above; roll it into +layers one quarter inch thick, and place the layers one on the other; +press them together lightly and cut into inch squares.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="NUT_CREAMS_523" id="NUT_CREAMS_523"></a>NUT CREAMS</h4> + +<p>Mix chopped nuts of any kind into flavored fondant, then roll into a +layer three quarters of an inch thick, and cut into squares.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SUGAR-PLUMS_523" id="SUGAR-PLUMS_523"></a>SUGAR-PLUMS</h4> + +<p>Take small pieces of fondant, flavored and colored to taste; form it +into olive-shaped balls. Hold one in the palm of the hand, cut it half +through and press into it an almond; form the fondant around it, leaving +a narrow strip of the nut uncovered, giving the appearance of a shell +cracked open, showing the kernel. If chocolate color is used the almond +should be blanched, but with light colors the skin is left on to give +contrast. When green color is used it represents a green almond.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_524" id="Page_524">[524]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHOCOLATE_CREAMS_524" id="CHOCOLATE_CREAMS_524"></a>CHOCOLATE CREAMS</h4> + +<p>Roll fondant flavored with vanilla into small balls; let them stand a +few hours to harden. Melt an ounce of unsweetened chocolate, add to it +two tablespoonfuls of milk, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and a quarter +teaspoonful of butter. Stir till smooth; drop the balls into it and +remove with a fork or candy wire. If the chocolate becomes too stiff, +add a few drops of syrup and heat it again.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CREAMED_NUTS_524" id="CREAMED_NUTS_524"></a>CREAMED NUTS AND CREAMED FRUITS</h4> + +<p>Put one or two tablespoonfuls of fondant into a cup. Place the cup in a +basin of hot water and stir constantly until the fondant becomes soft +like cream or molasses. If it is not stirred it will go back to clear +syrup; flavor and color the liquid fondant as desired. Drop the nuts in +one at a time, turn them until well covered with fondant, lift them out +with a candy-spoon, and place them on an oiled paper, or on an oiled +slab. English walnuts, cherries, strawberries, and grapes are very good +creamed in this way. The hulls are left on strawberries, the stems on +cherries and grapes. Brandied cherries may also be creamed in the same +way. If the fondant becomes too stiff, melt it again. After it has been +melted twice it no longer works well. A few drops of syrup at 34° can +then be added. It is well to have some syrup prepared to keep in stock +for this purpose. A drop or two of liquid is sufficient to soften +fondant, and unless care is used it will be diluted too much, in which +case confectioner’s sugar can be mixed in; but this gives a raw taste to +the fondant, and should be avoided if possible.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COCOANUT_CREAMS_524" id="COCOANUT_CREAMS_524"></a>COCOANUT CREAMS</h4> + +<p>Grate some cocoanut fine. Mix it with as much liquid fondant as will +bind it well, and flavor with a little vanilla. Spread it in a layer one +inch thick and cut into one inch squares, or roll it into balls, and dip +the balls into melted chocolate, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_525" id="Page_525">[525]</a></span> same as directed for chocolate +creams, or into liquid fondant, flavored and colored as desired.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COCOANUT_CAKES_525" id="COCOANUT_CAKES_525"></a>COCOANUT CAKES</h4> + +<p>Moisten a cupful of sugar with the milk of a cocoanut; boil it to the +soft-ball; then stir in as much grated cocoanut as the boiled sugar will +moisten; stir it only enough to mix and not granulate. Drop a spoonful +at a time on an oiled slab, making flat round cakes about two inches in +diameter. If the sugar granulates before the cakes are all spread, add a +little water and cook it again to the soft-ball.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PEPPERMINT_CREAMS_525" id="PEPPERMINT_CREAMS_525"></a>PEPPERMINT CREAMS</h4> + +<p>Melt fondant as directed for creamed nuts; flavor it with essence of +peppermint. With a spoon drop the liquid fondant in even amounts upon an +oiled slab, making lozenges; or, better, turn it into starch molds (see +<a href="#TO_MAKE_STARCH_MOLDS_525">starch molds</a>, below).</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHOCOLATE_PEPPERMINTS_525" id="CHOCOLATE_PEPPERMINTS_525"></a>CHOCOLATE PEPPERMINTS</h4> + +<p>Dip the peppermint lozenges into liquid chocolate, as directed for +chocolate creams.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TO_MAKE_STARCH_MOLDS_525" id="TO_MAKE_STARCH_MOLDS_525"></a>TO MAKE STARCH MOLDS AND CAST CANDIES</h4> + +<p>Fill a box-cover with corn-starch, having it very light and dry; shake +it down even. Press into it a die of any shape desired, making the +indentations carefully. Plaster casts are made for this purpose, but +buttons make very good dies. A smooth flat button one half inch in +diameter makes a good shape for peppermints. Molds are used for cream +drops, chocolates, or any of the flavored clear candies.</p> + +<p>The liquid candy is dropped carefully into the molds and removed when +cold and the starch dusted off. The starch can then be stirred light and +again pressed into molds.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_526" id="Page_526">[526]</a></span></p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="CANDIES_MADE_FROM_SUGAR_526" id="CANDIES_MADE_FROM_SUGAR_526"></a>CANDIES MADE FROM SUGAR BOILED TO THE CRACK OR THE CARAMEL</h3> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PEPPERMINT_DROPS_526" id="PEPPERMINT_DROPS_526"></a>PEPPERMINT DROPS</h4> + +<p><span class="smcap">Boil</span> a cupful of sugar to the hard-ball. Remove it from the fire; add a +half teaspoonful of essence of peppermint and stir it just enough to mix +in the flavoring and cloud the sugar. Drop it into starch molds or upon +an oiled slab, letting four drops of the candy fall in exactly the same +spot; it will then spread round and even.</p> + +<p>These drops should be translucent or a little white. Unless care is used +the candy will grain before the drops are molded; therefore it is better +to pour it from the spout of the pan than to dip it out with a spoon.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CARAMELED_NUTS_526" id="CARAMELED_NUTS_526"></a>CARAMELED NUTS</h4> + +<p>Boil a cupful of sugar to the crack or to the caramel, as preferred; add +a few drops of lemon-juice. Blanch a few almonds and dry without +coloring them. Drop one at a time into the sugar; turn it until well +covered without stirring the sugar; lift it out with the candy-spoon, +and place it on an oiled slab. Do not drain the nuts when lifting them +out, and enough sugar will remain to form a clear ring of candy around +each one. English walnuts, filberts, or any other nuts may be used in +the same way. They should be warmed so as not to chill the candy. The +work should be done quickly. If the sugar becomes hard before the nuts +are all done, return it to the fire to heat. Add a teaspoonful of water +if necessary, and boil it to the right degree again. If the sugar is +boiled to the crack, the candy will be without color; if boiled to the +caramel, it will be yellow.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ALMOND_HARDBAKE_526" id="ALMOND_HARDBAKE_526"></a>ALMOND HARDBAKE</h4> + +<p>Blanch some almonds and split them in two. Dry them in a moderate heat +without coloring them. Lay them with the flat side down on an oiled +layer-cake tin, entirely covering it. Pour<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_527" id="Page_527">[527]</a></span> over the nuts enough sugar +boiled to the crack to entirely cover them. The almonds may be laid in +regular order like wreaths, or in groups like rosettes, if desired. Mark +off squares or circles on the candy while it is warm, and it can then be +broken in regular pieces when cold.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PEANUT_CANDY_527" id="PEANUT_CANDY_527"></a>PEANUT CANDY</h4> + +<p>Fill a small square tin a half inch deep with shelled peanuts, leaving +the skins on. Boil some sugar to the crack or to the caramel, and pour +it over the nuts, just covering them. Cut it into two-inch squares +before it becomes quite cold.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TAFFY_527" id="TAFFY_527"></a>TAFFY</h4> + +<p>Put into a saucepan two and a half cupfuls of sugar and a half cupful of +water; stir until it dissolves; then wash the sides of the pan, and let +it boil without touching until it reaches the soft-ball stage; add a +tablespoonful of butter and a half teaspoonful of lemon-juice, and let +it boil to the crack; add a teaspoonful of vanilla, and turn it onto an +oiled slab or a tin to cool. Mark it off into squares before it becomes +cold.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MOLASSES_CANDY_527" id="MOLASSES_CANDY_527"></a>MOLASSES CANDY</h4> + +<p>Put into a large saucepan a cupful of brown sugar, two cupfuls of New +Orleans molasses, and a tablespoonful each of butter and vinegar. Mix +them well and boil until it will harden when dropped in water. Then stir +in a teaspoonful of baking-soda, which will whiten it, and turn it into +a greased tin to cool. When it can be handled pull it until white and +firm; draw it into sticks and cut it into inch lengths.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CANDIED_ORANGE_OR_LEMON_PEEL_527" id="CANDIED_ORANGE_OR_LEMON_PEEL_527"></a>CANDIED ORANGE OR LEMON PEEL</h4> + +<p>Keep the peel of the fruit, as it is used, in a weak brine until enough +has collected to preserve. Wash it thoroughly in several waters. Let it +boil in plenty of water until tender, chang<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_528" id="Page_528">[528]</a></span>ing the water several times. +If the peels are fresh they need be boiled in one water only. When they +can be pierced with a straw, drain off the hot water. Let them cool, and +scrape out the white pulp with a spoon. Make enough syrup to cover the +yellow peels, using the proportion of a pound of sugar to a pint of +water. When the syrup is boiling, drop in the peels and let them cook +slowly until they are clear. Then boil rapidly until the syrup is +reduced almost to dryness, using care that it does not burn. Spread the +peels on a flat dish and place them in a warm place to dry for twelve +hours or more. When perfectly dry pack them into preserve jars. They are +cut into shreds and used in cakes, puddings, and wherever raisins and +citron are used. They are also used in pudding sauces. It is very little +trouble to make the candied peels, and they are a delicious addition to +various sweet dishes. The boiled peel can be cut into shreds before +being cooked in the syrup if preferred.</p> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_529" id="Page_529">[529]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="Chapter_XXIV" id="Chapter_XXIV"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter XXIV</span><br /> +<br /> +<a name="FRUITS_529" id="FRUITS_529"></a>FRUITS</h2> + + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="smcap">In</span> point of general usefulness, apples hold the first place +among fruits. Oranges also serve a great number of purposes, +and, like apples, can be depended on nearly the whole year. +Peaches and apricots, although of short season, can be so +successfully preserved that they, as well as berries, render +important service in cooking. All of these fruits are excellent +prepared as compotes, with pastry, with corn-starch, or with +gelatine, making a variety of dishes without number. In the +index will be found a list of dishes under each of these +heads. In the fruit season one is sometimes at a loss to +know how to utilize the abundance there may be at command. +Usually the fresh fruit is most acceptable at that time, but +the little trouble and slight expense of canning should make +one provident enough to secure a year’s store to supply the +various purposes which cooked fruit serve.</p> + +<p>Fresh fruits are always wholesome, beautiful, and inviting, +and should always have a place on every table. <span class="sidenote"><b>Temperature.</b></span> The practice +of leaving fruit on the sideboard in a warm room from one +meal to another is a mistake, for fruit should be fresh, +firm, and cold to be in its best condition. An exception to +this rule may be made for fruits fresh from the garden with +the heat of the sun upon them. The small fruits are much +more delicious when tasting of the sunshine, but fruits<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_530" id="Page_530">[530]</a></span> +obtained from markets are better for being chilled. <span class="sidenote"><b>Arranging.</b></span> Much +taste may be shown in arranging fruits for decorating the +table. They may be combined in large dishes, giving effect +of abundance, or a quantity of one kind massed together for +color-effects, or a few choice specimens of a kind placed on +separate compotiers. All the ways are good and, if the fruit +is fresh and fair, will be most attractive. Green leaves +should be combined with fruits; grape-leaves under small +groups of peaches, plums, grapes, etc., are much used by the +French, who excel in the beautiful arrangements of fruit. +White grapes, shading from those with pink tints to white +below, give pleasing effects on white dinner-tables.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Apples_530" id="Apples_530"></a><b>Apples.</b></span> Apples should be washed and rubbed until well polished. Fine +apples so treated make an attractive centerpiece dish.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Illustrations.</b></span> A few ways of preparing oranges are given in illustrations.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 425px;"> +<a name="illus-528-f-3" id="illus-528-f-3" href="images/illus-528-f-3-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-528-f-3.jpg" width="425" height="197" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">DIFFERENT WAYS OF PREPARING ORANGES.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 421px;"> +<a name="illus-532-f-1" id="illus-532-f-1" href="images/illus-532-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-532-f-1.jpg" width="421" height="193" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">SLICED ORANGES.</span> +</div> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Oranges_530" id="Oranges_530"></a><b>Oranges, <a name="grape-fruit_530" id="grape-fruit_530"></a>grape-fruit, or shaddocks.</b></span> The grape-fruit is served at breakfast, or as a first course +at luncheon. The pulp must be separated from the thin bitter +skin which separates the sections, with a silver knife. A +little sugar is added, and sometimes a teaspoonful of sherry, +to each portion. The pulp and juice is eaten with a spoon from +the peel, one half the shaddock being served to each person, +or it may be served in small glasses. The peels prepared as +fancy baskets can be kept fresh for several days in water.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 420px;"> +<a name="illus-532-f-2" id="illus-532-f-2" href="images/illus-532-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-532-f-2.jpg" width="420" height="198" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">GRAPE FRUIT SERVED IN THE HALF PEEL.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 408px;"> +<a name="illus-532-f-3" id="illus-532-f-3" href="images/illus-532-f-3-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-532-f-3.jpg" width="408" height="194" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">GRAPE FRUIT SERVED IN A BASKET MADE OF THE PEEL AND A +BRANCH OF HOLLY TIED TO THE HANDLE. (SEE PAGE <a href="#grape-fruit_530">530</a>.)</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 425px;"> +<a name="illus-534-f-1" id="illus-534-f-1" href="images/illus-534-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-534-f-1.jpg" width="425" height="200" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">GRAPE FRUIT SERVED IN A BASKET MADE OF THE PEEL—GERANIUM +LEAVES TIED TO THE HANDLE.</span> +</div> + + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Peaches_530" id="Peaches_530"></a><b>Peaches.</b></span> Peaches should have the down taken off lightly with a soft +brush before being served. A fruit doily should be given at +the time they are passed, as peaches stain the table linen.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Strawberries_530" id="Strawberries_530"></a><b>Strawberries.</b></span> Large fine strawberries are served with the hulls on and piled +in a pyramid. Sugar is passed with them, or they may be served +on individual plates around a small mound of sugar, made by +pressing the sugar in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_531" id="Page_531">[531]</a></span> a wineglass and then unmolding it in +the center of the plate.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Berries_531" id="Berries_531"></a><b>Berries.</b></span> No berries should be washed. If strawberries are sandy, cold +water must be poured over them and drained off at once, but +the berries will no longer be at their best. Sugar should +always be passed, and not put over the berries before serving +them, as it extracts their juice and destroys their firmness. +They should also be served in small dishes, as they crush with +their own weight. Where a large quantity is being served, +several dishes should be used.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Currants_531" id="Currants_531"></a><b>Currants.</b></span> A mixture of red and of white currants makes an attractive +breakfast fruit. They may be served on the stems if fine and +large clusters.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Bananas_531" id="Bananas_531"></a><b>Bananas sliced, sautéd, and fried.</b></span> Bananas sliced and covered with whipped cream make a good light +dessert for luncheon. They may be moistened with orange-juice +or with sherry before the cream is added, if desired. Bananas +may be cut in two lengthwise, sautéd in a little butter, and +served as a vegetable or as an entrée; or they may be cut in +two, the ends cut square, so they will resemble croquettes, +then rolled in flour, and fried in hot fat to a light color, +and served as a dessert with currant jelly sauce. To make the +sauce, dilute the jelly with boiling water; add a few chopped +blanched almonds and shredded candied orange-peel. The unripe +and not fully developed banana is devoid of sweetness and when +roasted resembles a baked potato. In hot climates the natives +live mostly on bananas, and a nation is said to be cursed where +they grow, because the ease with which they get their living +makes them lazy.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Stewed_figs_531" id="Stewed_figs_531"></a><b>Stewed figs.</b></span> Soak dried figs in cold water for several hours, then stew +them slowly until plump. Drain and pile them on a dish, and +serve with whipped cream slightly sweetened and flavored +with vanilla, sherry, maraschino, or with essence of almond. +Arrange the cream in a circle around the figs.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_532" id="Page_532">[532]</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Salpicon_of_fruits_532" id="Salpicon_of_fruits_532"></a><b>Salpicon of fruits.</b></span> Mix together lightly an equal proportion of orange-pulp, +bananas cut into half-inch dice, and grapes cut in two and +the seeds removed. Add sugar if necessary, and a little +sherry or liqueur if desired; serve in glasses or in +half-orange skins. Grape-fruit may be used in the same way; +it may also be combined with the orange salpicon. There +should be a good quantity of juice with the mixture.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 425px;"> +<a name="illus-528-f-1" id="illus-528-f-1" href="images/illus-528-f-1-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-528-f-1.jpg" width="425" height="194" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">SALPICON OF FRUITS IN ORANGE-SKIN.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 421px;"> +<a name="illus-528-f-2" id="illus-528-f-2" href="images/illus-528-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-528-f-2.jpg" width="421" height="200" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">SALPICON OF FRUITS IN GLASS.</span> +</div> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Melons_532" id="Melons_532"></a><b>Melons.</b></span> Melons are in perfection in hot dry weather. They absorb +water readily and should not be gathered after a heavy rain +storm. Small melons are cut in two, the seeds removed, a +piece of ice placed in each piece, and a half melon served +to each person. Large melons are cut in broad sections and a +generous piece served as a portion. Melons may be served at +the beginning or the end of any meal. They are usually most +acceptable as a first course. They should be thoroughly +cold.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Frozen_fruits_532" id="Frozen_fruits_532"></a><b>Frozen fruits.</b></span> Any of the fruits can be partly frozen and served as an ice. +Cut them into pieces, sweeten with sugar syrup, and pack in +ice and salt for an hour, but do not leave them long enough +to become stiff. Berries are of course left whole.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 427px;"> +<a name="illus-534-f-2" id="illus-534-f-2" href="images/illus-534-f-2-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-534-f-2.jpg" width="427" height="205" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">PLUMS.</span> +</div> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Quinces_baked_532" id="Quinces_baked_532"></a><b>Quinces baked.</b></span> Pare and core quinces the same as apples. Put them in a +shallow earthen dish, with enough water to fill the dish a +quarter inch deep. Place them in a moderate oven and bake +until tender, basting them often. Serve them hot with butter +and sugar as a luncheon dish.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Nuts_532" id="Nuts_532"></a><b>Nuts.</b></span> Nuts with hard shells are cracked, the meats removed and +placed in bonbon dishes, or are piled on lace papers in +small compotiers. Almonds with paper shells are served +whole. Almonds are also served blanched. Peanuts with the +shells and skins removed, and served in bonbon dishes, are +much liked and seldom recognized as the much-despised nut. +Peanuts may be salted the same as almonds.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_533" id="Page_533">[533]</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Salted_almonds_533" id="Salted_almonds_533"></a><b>Salted almonds.</b></span> Blanch the almonds by putting them in boiling water for a +few minutes; the skins can then be easily rubbed off. Put +the blanched nuts into a pan with a small piece of butter, +and place them in a moderate oven. Stir them frequently so +they will brown on all sides. Sprinkle them freely with salt +as soon as they are taken from the oven.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Salted_almonds_No_2_533" id="Salted_almonds_No_2_533"></a><b>Salted almonds No. 2.</b></span> Blanch the almonds, and when they are thoroughly dry pour +a tablespoonful of oil on every cupful of nuts. Let them +stand in the oil for an hour, then add a tablespoonful of +fine salt to each cupful. Stir them and place in a shallow +pan in the oven until they are colored a light brown. Stir +them occasionally while in the oven, so they will be evenly +colored. Turn them onto a paper to dry, and shake off the +loose salt before serving.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Salted_English_walnuts_533" id="Salted_English_walnuts_533"></a><b>Salted English walnuts and filberts.</b></span> Brown them in the oven with a little butter the same as +almonds. Filberts are blanched, but walnuts do not have the +skin removed.</p> + +<p>A mixture of salted almonds, walnuts, and filberts makes a +good combination.</p> + +<p>Salted nuts are served at luncheon or dinner, and are eaten +at any and all times during those meals.</p></div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SALPICON_OF_FRUIT_PUNCH_533" id="SALPICON_OF_FRUIT_PUNCH_533"></a>SALPICON OF FRUIT PUNCH</h4> + +<p>This is served in glasses, in place of and in the same way as frozen +punch after the roast. Cut a pineapple into small dice; remove the +bitter skin carefully from the segments of three shaddocks and cut them +into pieces. Cut in two and remove the seeds from a pound of white +grapes; mix the fruit together. Put a cupful of rum and a cupful of +sugar into a saucepan on the fire and let them come to the boiling +point, then pour them over the fruit and let stand until cold. The rum +will not penetrate the fruit so well if put on cold. Put the mixture +into a freezing-can and pack in ice and salt for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_534" id="Page_534">[534]</a></span> several hours, or +until ready to serve. Stir the mixture together carefully every little +while.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PUNCH_OF_WHITE_CALIFORNIA_CANNED_CHERRIES_534" id="PUNCH_OF_WHITE_CALIFORNIA_CANNED_CHERRIES_534"></a>PUNCH OF WHITE CALIFORNIA CANNED CHERRIES</h4> + +<p>Drain off the liquor; make a rum syrup as above; soak and freeze in the +same way.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="JELLIED_FRUIT_534" id="JELLIED_FRUIT_534"></a>JELLIED FRUIT</h4> + +<p>Cut the pulp of two oranges into small pieces; cut two bananas into +dice; cut half a dozen candied cherries into quarters; chop a dozen +blanched almonds. Mix all lightly together and turn them into a bowl or +a china mold. Soak a half ounce of gelatine in a half cupful of cold +water for an hour; dissolve it in a cupful of boiling water; add a half +cupful of sugar and stir over the fire until dissolved; then add the +juice of half a lemon, the juice which has drained from the fruit, and a +tablespoonful of sherry. Turn it into the mold slowly, so it soaks into +the fruit, and set aside to cool. Serve with cream if convenient. Any +mixture of fresh fruits may be used in the same way; raisins may be used +instead of cherries, or both may be omitted. This is a good way to +utilize fruits that are going to waste.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRUIT_JUICES_534" id="FRUIT_JUICES_534"></a>FRUIT JUICES</h4> + +<p>The juice of oranges, strawberries, currants, or any fruit makes a +delicious first course for luncheon in summer time or the fruit season, +when prepared as directed below. It is served cold in small glasses and +eaten with a spoon.</p> + +<p>Take a quart of fruit-juice; this will require about a dozen oranges, or +two quarts of strawberries or other juicy fruit; strain it through +filter paper to make it clear (see page <a href="#To_clarify_fruit_juices_415">415</a>); put it in an earthenware +or porcelain-lined saucepan on the fire, and as soon as it steams, stir +in three teaspoonfuls of arrowroot moistened in a little cold water. +Cook it until clear; then add a half cupful of sugar (or more if an acid +fruit), and as soon as the sugar is dissolved turn it into a bowl to +cool. At the moment of serving put a piece of ice in each glass.</p> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_535" id="Page_535">[535]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="Chapter_XXV" id="Chapter_XXV"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter XXV</span><br /> +<br /> +COMPOTES, PRESERVING AND CANNING, PICKLES</h2> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COMPOTES_535" id="COMPOTES_535"></a>COMPOTES</h4> + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>For plain desserts.</b></span> <span class="smcap">Compotes</span> are fresh fruits stewed. They are good served with +cake as a plain dessert. In combination with rice or other +molded cereals they are a very wholesome sweet for children.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Serving.</b></span> Make a syrup of 28° (see page <a href="#SYRUPS_513">513</a>). When it is boiling drop +the fruit in, a few pieces at a time, so it will not get +broken or crushed. Let it cook until tender, but still firm +enough to hold its form. Remove it carefully with a skimmer. +Arrange the pieces in regular order, overlapping, or piled +like uncooked fruit in a glass or silver dish. After the +fruit is cooked, let the syrup boil down until thick, or +about 32°, and strain it over the fruit. Let it cool before +serving.</p></div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="APPLE_COMPOTE_535" id="APPLE_COMPOTE_535"></a>APPLE COMPOTE</h4> + +<p>Pare and core the apples; leave them whole, or cut them into halves, +quarters, or thick round slices. Boil them until tender, and finish as +directed above. Have a few slices of lemon in the syrup and serve them +with the fruit. Pieces of cinnamon and cloves boiled with the fruit give +a good flavor.</p> + +<p>For jellied apples boil down the syrup to the jelly point. When partly +cooled pour it slowly with a spoon over the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_536" id="Page_536">[536]</a></span> apples, so enough will +adhere to give them a glaze. The center of the apples may be filled with +a bright-colored jelly or jam.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COMPOTE_OF_PEARS_536" id="COMPOTE_OF_PEARS_536"></a>COMPOTE OF PEARS</h4> + +<p>Use pears that are not quite ripe. Cut them in two lengthwise, splitting +the stem. Remove the core carefully with a scoop. Boil and serve them as +directed above.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COMPOTE_OF_PEACHES_536" id="COMPOTE_OF_PEACHES_536"></a>COMPOTE OF PEACHES OR APRICOTS</h4> + +<p>Peel the fruit and cut it in halves. Prepare it as directed above. Mix +with the syrup some meats taken from the pits.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COMPOTE_OF_ORANGES_536" id="COMPOTE_OF_ORANGES_536"></a>COMPOTE OF ORANGES</h4> + +<p>Peel the oranges down to the pulp, using a sharp knife. Cut them in two +crosswise. Remove with a pointed knife the core and seeds from the +center. Boil them, one or two at a time, until tender, in a syrup with a +little lemon-juice added, and be careful to keep them in good shape. +Boil the syrup down until it threads, and pour it over the oranges piled +in a glass dish. A candied cherry in the center of each one gives a +pretty garnish. Orange compote is good served plain, or with whipped +cream, with ice-creams, Bavarians, or corn-starch puddings. Mandarin +oranges make a delicious compote.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 418px;"> +<a name="illus-536-f" id="illus-536-f" href="images/illus-536-f-full.jpg"><img src="images/illus-536-f.jpg" width="418" height="228" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">COMPOTE OF ORANGES GARNISHED WITH CANDIED CHERRIES. (SEE +PAGE <a href="#COMPOTE_OF_ORANGES_536">536</a>.)</span> +</div> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="PRESERVING_AND_CANNING_536" id="PRESERVING_AND_CANNING_536"></a>PRESERVING AND CANNING</h3> + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Sterilizing the fruit.</b></span> <span class="smcap">The</span> success of preserving and canning depends upon heating the +fruit until all germs are destroyed, then sealing it air-tight +while still scalding hot. In this way no new germs of ferment +or mold can reach the fruit. Patent jars are generally used, +and must be put into scalding water before being filled to +prevent their breaking, and also to sterilize them. The +preserve must be put into them scalding hot, a spoon-handle +run down the sides to liberate any bubbles of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_537" id="Page_537">[537]</a></span> air, the jar +filled to the very brim, and the top put on each one at +once after it is filled. <span class="sidenote"><a name="Use_of_paraffin_537" id="Use_of_paraffin_537"></a><b>Use of paraffin.</b></span> A simple and very effectual way of +hermetically sealing fruit is to cover it with paraffin. This +can be obtained at any pharmacy. Place the paraffin in a small +saucepan on the side of the range; it melts at a low degree +of heat. When the jar or glass is filled with hot preserves +wipe the glass close to the fruit to free it of syrup. Cover +the top with a tablespoonful of liquid paraffin, and do +not move the jar until the paraffin has set; it will then +adhere closely to the glass. This will be found a very easy +and satisfactory way of sealing fruits. The paraffin when +taken off the fruit can be washed and kept to use again. <span class="sidenote"><b>Proportions.</b></span> In +preserving, sugar is used in the proportion of three quarters +of a pound or one pound of sugar to a pound of fruit, and the +fruit is thoroughly cooked. In canning, one quarter of a pound +of sugar to a pound of fruit is used, the fruit is only +thoroughly scalded, and so retains its flavor better. Fruits +should be under rather than overripe for preserving, and only +the finest should be selected. Inferior fruit may be used for +jams. It is most abundant when at its best, and at this time +it is cheapest. <span class="sidenote"><b>Utensils.</b></span> A porcelain-lined kettle and wooden spoons +should be used in the cooking, and a wide-mouthed funnel is a +convenience for filling the jars.</p></div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PRESERVED_PEACHES_537" id="PRESERVED_PEACHES_537"></a>PRESERVED PEACHES</h4> + +<p>The skin can easily be removed from peaches, leaving a smooth surface, +by placing them in a wire basket and plunging it for a moment into +boiling lye. The lye is made by adding two cupfuls of wood ashes to four +quarts of water. From the lye put the fruit into cold water and rinse it +several times, then rub off the skin. Cut each peach in two and place +again in cold water to preserve the color until ready to use. Place in +a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_538" id="Page_538">[538]</a></span> porcelain-lined kettle three quarters the weight of sugar you have of +fruit. Add a very little water to dissolve the sugar. Let it boil a +minute, and take off any scum that rises. Then add as much fruit as will +float without crowding, and cook until it is transparent, but not until +it loses shape. Remove each piece separately as soon as it is cooked. +When ready to fill the jars place them carefully in a pan of boiling +water; have the tops and rubbers also in hot water. Part of the fruit +has become cooled while the rest was cooking, but, as it must go into +the jars hot, place it again in the boiling syrup, a little at a time. +Use a ladle or cup to dip out the fruit; run a spoon-handle around the +inside of the jars after they are filled to liberate any air bubbles. +Add enough syrup to fill them to overflowing, and adjust the rubber and +top on each jar as it is filled. Any juice that is left over may be +boiled down to a jelly, or it may be bottled to use as flavoring or for +sauces.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PRESERVED_PEARS_538" id="PRESERVED_PEARS_538"></a>PRESERVED PEARS</h4> + +<p>Peel the pears; cut them in two lengthwise, splitting the stem, or they +may be left whole if preferred. Place them carefully in jars; fill the +jars with a syrup of 30° (see page <a href="#SYRUPS_513">513</a>); cover the jars without +fastening the tops. Place the jars in a boiler of warm water, half +covering them. Stand the jars on muffin-rings, slats of wood, or +something to raise them off the bottom of the boiler, or they will break +while cooking. Cover the boiler and cook the fruit until it is tender +and looks clear. Remove the jars carefully, fill them completely full, +using more hot syrup, or the contents of one of the cooked jars. Adjust +the tops and set them to cool where the air will not strike them. (See +<a href="#CANNING_540">canning</a>.) Pears may be cooked the same as peaches, but they are such a +very tender fruit, it is better to use the method given, as the shape is +kept better in this way.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PRESERVED_PLUMS_538" id="PRESERVED_PLUMS_538"></a>PRESERVED PLUMS</h4> + +<p>Preserve plums in the same way as directed for peaches or for pears. +Remove the skin from them or not. If left on it is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_539" id="Page_539">[539]</a></span> likely to crack open +and come off if boiled too long. To prevent this, in a measure, prick +the plums in several places with a fork before cooking.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="GRAPE_PRESERVES_539" id="GRAPE_PRESERVES_539"></a>GRAPE PRESERVES</h4> + +<p>Press the pulp out of each grape. Boil the pulps until tender, then pass +them through a colander to remove the seeds. Mix the skins with the pulp +and juice, add as many cupfuls of sugar as there are of grapes, and boil +all together until well thickened.</p> + +<p>Seal while hot the same as other preserves.</p> + +<p>Green grapes are preserved by cutting each grape in halves, taking out +the seeds, then adding an equal quantity of sugar, and boiling all +together until of the right consistency.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PRESERVED_STRAWBERRIES_No_1_539" id="PRESERVED_STRAWBERRIES_No_1_539"></a>PRESERVED STRAWBERRIES No. 1</h4> + +<p>Select firm, large berries and remove the hulls. To each pound of fruit +(one basketful of berries will weigh about a pound) add three quarters +of a pound of granulated sugar. Mix it with the berries, and let them +stand ten to fifteen minutes, or long enough to moisten the sugar but +not soften the berries. Put them in a granite or porcelain-lined +saucepan and let them boil slowly five to ten minutes, or until the +berries are softened: do not stir them, as that will break the berries, +and do not boil long enough for them to lose their shape. Cook one +basketful of berries only at a time. A larger quantity crushes by its +own weight. A good method is to have two saucepans and two bowls, and +leave the berries, after being hulled, in the baskets until ready to +use; then put a basketful at a time in a bowl with sugar sprinkled +through them; while one bowlful is being cooked, the bowl refilled, and +the glasses filled, the other one is ready to use. In this way no time +is lost, and the cooking is accomplished in as short a time as though +all were put into a preserving kettle together. It is well to put +strawberries into glasses. One basketful of berries will fill two +half-pint tumblers. Cover the tops with paraffin as directed above, page +<a href="#Use_of_paraffin_537">537</a>.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_540" id="Page_540">[540]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PRESERVED_STRAWBERRIES_No_2_540" id="PRESERVED_STRAWBERRIES_No_2_540"></a>PRESERVED STRAWBERRIES No. 2</h4> + +<p>Fill pint jars with as many berries as they will hold; pour over them a +hot syrup of 32° (see page <a href="#SYRUPS_513">513</a>). After standing a few minutes they will +shrivel, and more berries should be added. Cover and cook them in a +boiler as directed for preserved pears and canning.</p> + +<p>Strawberries require more sugar than other fruits to preserve their +color, therefore they do not can well.</p> + +<p>Strawberries, if carefully prepared by either of the foregoing receipts, +will resemble the Wiesbaden preserves.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RASPBERRY_PRESERVE_540" id="RASPBERRY_PRESERVE_540"></a>RASPBERRY PRESERVE</h4> + +<p>Raspberries are preserved the same as strawberries.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CITRON_PRESERVE_540" id="CITRON_PRESERVE_540"></a>CITRON PRESERVE</h4> + +<p>Pare and core the citron; cut it into strips and notch the edges; or cut +it into fancy shapes. Allow a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit, and to +six pounds of the fruit allow four lemons and a quarter of a pound of +ginger root. Tie the ginger in a cloth, and boil it in a quart and a +half of water until the flavor is extracted; then remove it, and add to +the water the sugar and the juice of the lemons; stir until the sugar is +dissolved and the syrup is clear; take off any scum; then add the +citron, and cook until it is clear, but not soft enough to fall apart. +Can and seal while hot.</p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="CANNING_540" id="CANNING_540"></a>CANNING</h3> + + +<h4 class="section">APPLES, PEACHES, PEARS, PLUMS, CHERRIES, BERRIES, ETC.</h4> + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Proportions.</b></span> <span class="smcap">Canning</span> does not differ from preserving, except in the amount +of sugar used. A quarter of a pound of sugar to a pound +of fruit is the rule, but none at all need be used, as the +fruit will keep just as well with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_541" id="Page_541">[541]</a></span>out it if it is thoroughly +sterilized by heat and immediately sealed. Fruits that require +sugar when eaten fresh need sugar in like proportion when +canned. The fruit may be boiled in a syrup of 14°, which is +made of one pound of sugar to a quart of water, and bottled +the same as when preserved, but an easier and better way is to +cook it in the jars. <span class="sidenote"><b>Red fruits.</b></span> Pack the fruit tightly in the jars and +cover it with a syrup of 14°; red fruits need more sugar to +preserve their color, and should have a syrup of 24°, which is +one pint of water to a pound of sugar. Place the jars in a +boiler of water, half covering them; raise them off the bottom +of the boiler by standing them on muffin-rings or slats of +wood. Do not let them touch. <span class="sidenote"><b>Cooling.</b></span> Cover the boiler, and let them +cook until the fruit is tender; the fruit will fall a little, +so the jars will have to be filled up again; use for this the +contents of another jar, or plain boiling water; adjust and +fasten the tops at once, and place them where the air will not +strike them while cooling.</p> + +<p>Another way is to pack the dry jars full of fruit, fasten +down the tops at once, place them in a boiler of cold water +nearly covering them, raise it to the boiling-point and cook +for an hour, and leave them in the water until cold again. +In this way they are cooked in their own juice, and are said +to retain their flavor better than where water is used. +Canned apples make a very good substitute for fresh ones for +pies, compotes and apple-sauce.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="JAMS_OR_MARMALADES_541" id="JAMS_OR_MARMALADES_541"></a>JAMS OR MARMALADES</h4> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Testing.</b></span> Use three quarters of a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. +Place the fruit, pared and cored, in layers with the sugar in +the preserving kettle. Let it stand a few minutes to extract +some of the juice from the fruit; then place it on the fire +and cook until it be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_542" id="Page_542">[542]</a></span>comes a thick, consistent mass. Stir it +frequently to break the fruit. When it has become tender, use +a potato-masher to crush it. When it looks clear, put a little +on a plate, and if it thickens, it is done. Put it into +tumblers and cover. This does not require to be hermetically +sealed. In making preserves it is well to reserve all the +fruit which is not perfect and make it into jam.</p></div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="QUINCE_MARMALADE_542" id="QUINCE_MARMALADE_542"></a>QUINCE MARMALADE</h4> + +<p>Pare, core, and cut into pieces the fruit. Put the skins and cores into +a kettle; cover them with water, and boil thirty minutes, or until +tender; strain off the water through a colander, and as much pulp as +will pass without the skins. To this add the rest of the fruit and three +quarters of a pound of sugar to each pound of fruit. Boil it until it +becomes a jelly-like mass. Mash the fruit as much as possible. It may be +colored red, if desired, with cochineal. Turn it into glasses, tin +boxes, or wooden salt-boxes. It becomes solid, and is served cut into +slices. The Russians cut it into inch squares, and serve it as a bonbon.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ORANGE_MARMALADE_542" id="ORANGE_MARMALADE_542"></a>ORANGE MARMALADE</h4> + +<p>Allow the juice and grated rind of one lemon to every five oranges. +Weigh the fruit before cutting it, and allow three quarters of a pound +of sugar to a pound of fruit. Remove the peel in quarters, and boil it +in plenty of water until it is tender enough to pierce easily with a +broom-straw; then drain off the water and let it cool. Remove the seeds +and as much of the skin as possible from the pulp. Boil the pulp with +the sugar until the orange is well cooked. When the peel is cool take +one piece at a time in the palm of the hand, and with a tablespoon cut +out all the white pithy part, leaving the thin yellow rind. Place a +number of these pieces together, and with a sharp knife cut them into +thin shreds. By cutting many together in this way it is done quickly. +Add the shredded rinds to the cooked<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_543" id="Page_543">[543]</a></span> oranges and let them cook until of +the right consistency. It should be very thick, but not solid like +jelly. This is a very good marmalade, and resembles the Dundee brand.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="APPLE_MARMALADE_543" id="APPLE_MARMALADE_543"></a>APPLE MARMALADE</h4> + +<p>Make the same as directed for jams.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BRANDY_PEACHES_543" id="BRANDY_PEACHES_543"></a>BRANDY PEACHES</h4> + +<p>Cook the fruit the same as directed for preserving peaches; but for this +purpose the peaches are left whole, the skin left on or not, as desired. +If the skins are retained they should be carefully brushed to remove all +the down; use only fine fruit. When the jars are filled, add to each +quart a half cupful of brandy, and seal; or, after filling the jars with +fruit, boil down the syrup until it is very thick, and to each cupful of +syrup add a cupful of brandy; pour it over the fruit and seal. +California brandy serves very well for this purpose.</p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="JELLIES_543" id="JELLIES_543"></a>JELLIES</h3> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="CURRANT_OR_ANY_BERRIES_543" id="CURRANT_OR_ANY_BERRIES_543"></a>CURRANT OR ANY BERRIES</h4> + +<p>To make clear jelly use only the perfect fruit. Pick it over carefully +and remove the stems. Place it in a porcelain-lined kettle and crush it +enough to give a little juice so it will not burn. Cook it slowly until +the fruit is soft, then turn it into a heavy cloth and press out all the +juice. Strain the juice several times if necessary, to make it clear. +Passing it through filter paper is recommended. Measure the juice, and +to each pint allow a pound of sugar. Put the sugar in the oven to heat, +but do not let it burn. Put the strained juice into the kettle and let +it boil twenty minutes; then add the hot sugar, and stir until the sugar +is dissolved and the juice is clear again. Pour it into glasses and let +it stand until set. Grapes and cherries do not jelly easily, and a +little gelatine added will insure success. When fruit does not jelly it +is usually because it is over ripe. The fruit should not be gathered +after a rain, nor should it be washed.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_544" id="Page_544">[544]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="APPLE_JELLY_544" id="APPLE_JELLY_544"></a>APPLE JELLY</h4> + +<p>Wash the apples; cut them in pieces without peeling or coring, but +remove any imperfect parts. Barely cover them with water and boil slowly +until they are tender, then strain off the liquor through cheese-cloth +without pressing. Measure the juice, and to each pint of juice allow a +pound of sugar. Put the juice in the preserving kettle and let it boil +five minutes; then add the sugar and stir until it dissolves. Continue +to boil it until a little dropped on a cold plate will jelly. It will +take twenty to thirty minutes. Turn it into tumblers and cover. This +jelly spread on the apple used in tarts improves them very much.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CRAB-APPLE_JELLY_544" id="CRAB-APPLE_JELLY_544"></a>CRAB-APPLE JELLY</h4> + +<p>Make the same as apple jelly.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="QUINCE_JELLY_544" id="QUINCE_JELLY_544"></a>QUINCE JELLY</h4> + +<p>Make the same as apple jelly.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SPICED_GRAPES_544" id="SPICED_GRAPES_544"></a>SPICED GRAPES</h4> + +<p>Prepare the grapes as for preserving, by removing the skins, boiling the +pulp, and straining out the seeds. To seven pounds of fruit (weighed +before the seeds are removed), add a cupful of strong vinegar, a cupful +of grape-juice taken from the grapes used for preserves, two ounces of +cinnamon, one ounce of cloves (tie the spices in a cloth so they can be +removed), three and one half pounds of sugar. Boil until it becomes +thick like a marmalade, which will take about an hour and a half. When +done turn it into glasses. This is good with roast meats.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PLUM_SAUCE_FOR_MEATS_544" id="PLUM_SAUCE_FOR_MEATS_544"></a>PLUM SAUCE FOR MEATS</h4> + +<p>To each pound of Damson plums, add a half cupful of sugar, one half +ounce each of cinnamon, mace, and cloves (tie the spices in a bag). +Remove the stones from the plums and boil until it becomes thick like +jam.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_545" id="Page_545">[545]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SWEET_PICKLED_PEACHES_545" id="SWEET_PICKLED_PEACHES_545"></a>SWEET PICKLED PEACHES AND PLUMS</h4> + +<p>Allow three and three quarter pounds of sugar to seven pounds of fruit. +Put the sugar into the preserving kettle with a quart of vinegar and two +ounces each of cloves and a stick of cinnamon. Boil them for five +minutes after the sugar is dissolved. Pare the peaches and stick a clove +into each one. Place a few at a time in the boiling syrup and cook them +until they look clear, but are not softened enough to fall apart. When +all are cooked, continue to boil the syrup until it is reduced nearly +one half and pour it over the peaches. Plums are pickled in the same +way. The skins may be left on both peaches and plums if preferred; in +which case the down must be brushed off the peaches, and the plums must +be pricked with a fork in several places to prevent the skins cracking +when placed in the hot syrup.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="PICKLED_WALNUTS_545" id="PICKLED_WALNUTS_545"></a>PICKLED WALNUTS</h4> + +<p>Gather the walnuts when well grown, but still soft enough to be pierced +through with a needle. Run a heavy needle through them several times and +place them in strong brine, using as much salt as the water will absorb. +Let them remain in brine for a week or ten days, and change the brine +every other day; then drain the nuts and expose them to the air until +they have turned black. Pack them in jars and cover them with boiling +hot vinegar prepared as follows: To a gallon of vinegar add an ounce +each of ginger root, mace, allspice, and cloves, and two ounces of +peppercorns; boil them together for ten minutes and strain over the +nuts. Let them stand a month before using.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CUCUMBER_OR_GHERKIN_PICKLES_545" id="CUCUMBER_OR_GHERKIN_PICKLES_545"></a>CUCUMBER OR GHERKIN PICKLES</h4> + +<p>Gather each day the cucumbers of the size desired; rub them smooth with +a cloth and place them in brine strong enough to float an egg. They will +keep in the brine until wanted to pickle. Soak the cucumbers in water +for two days after taking them from the brine, changing the water once, +and then scald them in vinegar, or pour the boiling vinegar over them +and let<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_546" id="Page_546">[546]</a></span> them stand in it two days before using. Put into each two +quarts of vinegar an ounce of peppercorns, a half ounce each of mustard +seed and mace, a piece of horseradish, a piece of alum the size of a +pea, and a half cupful of sugar; boil them together for ten minutes +before straining it over the cucumbers. The very small cucumbers are +called gherkins.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="GREEN_TOMATO_PICKLE_546" id="GREEN_TOMATO_PICKLE_546"></a>GREEN TOMATO PICKLE</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 peck of green tomatoes.</li> + <li>2 quarts of onions.</li> + <li>Vinegar.</li> + <li>½ tablespoonful of cayenne.</li> + <li>¼ tablespoonful of ground mustard.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of turmeric.</li> + <li>2 pounds of brown sugar.</li> + <li>½ pound of white mustard seed.</li> + <li>½ ounce of ground mace.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of celery seed.</li> + <li>1 tablespoonful of ground cloves.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Slice the tomatoes and onions very thin; sprinkle a little salt through +them and let them stand over night. Drain them through a colander and +put them on to boil with enough vinegar to cover them and boil slowly +until they are clear and tender, then drain them from the vinegar. Put +into some fresh vinegar the sugar, mustard seed, mace, celery seed, and +cloves, and let them boil for a few minutes; then pour it over the +drained tomatoes, which have been mixed with the cayenne pepper, ground +mustard, and turmeric. Mix them well together; add a half bottle of +salad oil, and when cold put it in jars.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHOW-CHOW_546" id="CHOW-CHOW_546"></a>CHOW-CHOW</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>Cut into pieces,</li> + <li>½ peck of green tomatoes.</li> + <li>2 large cabbages.</li> + <li>15 onions.</li> + <li>25 cucumbers.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Mix them together and pack them in layers with salt; let them stand for +twelve hours, then drain off the brine and cover them with vinegar and +water, and let them stand another twelve hours.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_547" id="Page_547">[547]</a></span>Drain off the vinegar and cover them with one and one half gallons of +scalding hot vinegar which has been boiled a few minutes with one pint +of grated horseradish, one half pound of mustard seed, one ounce of +celery seed, one half cupful of ground pepper, one half cupful of +turmeric, one half cupful of cinnamon, and four pounds of sugar.</p> + +<p>Let them stand until perfectly cold, then add one cupful of salad oil +and one half pound of ground mustard. Mix them all thoroughly together +and place in jars.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="NASTURTIUM_PICKLE_547" id="NASTURTIUM_PICKLE_547"></a>NASTURTIUM PICKLE</h4> + +<p>Pick the nasturtium seeds green; leave a short stem on them and place +them in a weak brine for two days; then soak them in fresh water for a +day. Pack them in jars and turn over them boiling vinegar; seal and let +them stand a month before using.</p> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_548" id="Page_548">[548]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="Chapter_XXVI" id="Chapter_XXVI"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter XXVI</span><br /> +<br /> +BEVERAGES</h2> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="FILTERED_WATER_548" id="FILTERED_WATER_548"></a>FILTERED WATER</h4> + +<div class="explanations"> +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Boiling the water.</b></span> <span class="smcap">It</span> is a recognized fact that many diseases are contracted +through drinking impure water, yet many are so careless as +not to take the simple means of removing this danger. It +only requires boiling the water to destroy the germs. This, +however, does not remove the foreign matter, such as decayed +vegetable growth and other substances, therefore it is well to +filter as well as to boil water. Many good filters are made +which are cheap and easy to clean. The Gate City Stone Filter +is perhaps the simplest one, being an earthen crock with a +porous stone bottom. Although all filters claim to remove +germs as well as impurities from water, it is safer to boil it +first. Bright, crystal-like water in clear glass carafes is +an ornamental addition to the table service as well as a +convenient way of serving it. If the carafes are stopped with +cotton and placed in the refrigerator for several hours, the +water will be refreshingly cool, and cracked ice, which many +do not use, in the belief that it arrests digestion, will not +be required.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="TO_FREEZE_CARAFES_548" id="TO_FREEZE_CARAFES_548"></a>TO FREEZE CARAFES</h4> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Packing.</b></span> Fill the bottles a little less than half full. The water +should be below the largest part of the bulb; stop the bottles +with cotton, and over the top of each one invert a tin cup. +Individual timbale-molds may <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_549" id="Page_549">[549]</a></span>be used. Cover the bottom of a +tub with ice and salt, place the bottles on it, leaving some +space around each one, then fill the tub with ice and salt, +the same as in packing ice-creams, and cover it. Within two or +three hours the water will become frozen. Care must be taken +that the water in the tub is never high enough to flow into +the top of the carafes. When ready to serve, wipe the frozen +carafes and fill them with ice water.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="TEA_549" id="TEA_549"></a>TEA</h4> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>The water.</b></span> You cannot have first-rate tea or coffee unless you use +freshly-boiled water. Water that has been boiled for an hour +or more lacks life, and gives a dull taste to the decoction. +Draw freshly filtered water and let it come to a hard boil +before using.</p> + +<p>Scald the pot and immediately put into it the tea-leaves.</p> + +<p>When the water boils hard, pour upon the tea-leaves the +required quantity of water. Shut down the cover of the +tea-pot and let it stand just five minutes before serving.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Proportions.</b></span> To give the proportions of tea and water is impossible, +as such different degrees of strength are demanded. One +teaspoonful of tea to a pint of water, steeped five minutes, +makes a weak tea. Two teaspoonfuls give the color of mahogany, +if an English breakfast tea is used. Oolong tea does not color +the water very much, so its strength cannot be as well judged +in that way. <span class="sidenote"><b>Steeping.</b></span> Tea, to be perfect, should not steep longer than +five minutes; it may continue to grow stronger after that +time, but the flavor is not as good, and if the leaves remain +too long in the water the tea becomes bitter.</p> + +<p>The Russians, who are reputed to have the best tea, prepare it +at first very strong, getting almost an essence of tea; this +they dilute to the strength <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_550" id="Page_550">[550]</a></span>desired, using water which is +kept boiling in the samovar. Water removed from the kettle and +kept in a pot where it falls below the boiling-point, will not +give satisfactory results in diluting a strong infusion.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="The_tea-bag_550" id="The_tea-bag_550"></a><b>The tea-bag.</b></span> Where a quantity of tea is to be used, as at receptions, it is +well to put the tea into a swiss muslin bag, using enough to +make a very strong infusion. Place the bag in the scalded pot; +add the boiling water; after five minutes remove the bag. Keep +a kettle of water boiling over an alcohol flame, and use it to +dilute the tea as needed. The tea will then be as good as +though freshly made. If, however, the leaves are allowed to +remain in the pot the tea will not be fit to use after a short +time, and no matter how much it may be diluted, it will still +have an astringent taste.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="The_tea-ball_550" id="The_tea-ball_550"></a><b>The tea-ball.</b></span> Silver balls are convenient to use where one or two cups at +a time only are to be made for the friend who drops in for +the afternoon cup of tea. The ball holding the tea is placed +in the cup, water from the boiling kettle poured over it, +and the ball removed when the water has attained the right +color.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><a name="Russian_tea_550" id="Russian_tea_550"></a><b>Russian tea.</b></span> Various preparations of tea are made by adding flavorings. +<span class="sidenote"><b><br /><a name="Tea_punch_550" id="Tea_punch_550"></a>Tea punch.</b></span> The so-called Russian tea is made by adding sugar and a thin +slice of lemon to each cup; tea punch by soaking the sugar +first in rum or brandy. These, however, as well as milk, +destroy the flavor of tea and change the character of the +drink. <span class="sidenote"><a name="Iced_tea_550" id="Iced_tea_550"></a><b>Iced tea.</b></span> Iced tea is a very refreshing drink in summer. It is +served in glasses, with plenty of cracked ice, and should +not be made very strong, or it will become clouded when the +ice is added. Iced tea is improved by adding lemon. One +tablespoonful of lemon-juice to a glass of tea is a good +proportion.</p></div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_551" id="Page_551">[551]</a></span></p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="COFFEE_551" id="COFFEE_551"></a>COFFEE</h3> + + +<div class="explanations"><h4 class="section"><a name="CARE_OF_THE_COFFEE-BEAN_551" id="CARE_OF_THE_COFFEE-BEAN_551"></a>CARE OF THE COFFEE-BEAN</h4> + +<p>It is generally understood that tea becomes air-drawn if not +kept closely covered. It is also desirable to keep coffee in +the same way.</p> + + +<h4 class="section"><a name="COFFEE_MIXTURES_551" id="COFFEE_MIXTURES_551"></a>COFFEE MIXTURES AND BRANDS</h4> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>⅔ Java, <br />⅓ Mocha.</b></span> Mandhaling coffee, which is grown by the Dutch government on +the island of Sumatra, is considered the finest coffee in the +world. The finest Mocha which comes to this market contains +twenty per cent. of “Long Bean.” The best-known mark of this +coffee in New York is H. L. O. G. A favorite mixture is two +thirds Mandhaling to one third Mocha. The ordinary mixture +of two thirds Java to one third Mocha is misleading, as there +are an indefinite number of inferior qualities of both “Mocha” +and “Java.” The best Java comes from the port of Padang in +Sumatra, and the only true Mocha comes from Aden in Arabia. +The finest grades of Mexican, Maracaibo, Bogota, and Jamaica +coffees are highly esteemed. High grades of “Washed Rio” are +also richly flavored coffees. These high-class coffees are +difficult to get unadulterated. Another difficulty in buying +coffee is that each variety has many grades, so the only +assurance one can have of the quality received is the good +faith of the grocer with whom one deals. A practice among +grocers is to make mixtures which they sell under their own +trademark.</p></div> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="TO_MAKE_COFFEE_551" id="TO_MAKE_COFFEE_551"></a>TO MAKE COFFEE</h4> + +<p>To have the coffee right is one of the difficulties of the housekeeper. +The making of coffee is a very simple operation, but the nicety and care +with which it is prepared mark the differ<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_552" id="Page_552">[552]</a></span>ence between the good and bad +decoction. The best quality of coffee carelessly made is not as +acceptable as that well made from an inferior bean. Coffee readily +absorbs foreign flavors. If the pot is wiped out with a soiled cloth, or +if the coffee is strained through a flannel not perfectly sweet, the +coffee betrays it. If the spout is allowed to collect a film of stale +coffee, it will ruin all the fresh coffee put into the pot. To have +perfect coffee, use an earthen or china pot, and have the water boiling +when turned onto the coffee. Like tea, the results will not be right if +the water is allowed to fall below the boiling-point before it is used. +Have the coffee ground to a fine powder in order to get its full flavor +as well as strength. There is great waste in having coffee ground +coarse. A pound will go three times as far in the former as in the +latter case, therefore a good coffee-mill is an economy in a household. +Like tea, it should also be freshly made. It seems to lose its fine +flavor if kept hot for any considerable time. Black coffee is usually +made by dripping. Any coffee is better made in that way, using less +coffee if less strength is desired, but a strong infusion diluted with +hot milk makes a better drink than weak coffee flavored with milk.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="DRIP_COFFEE_552" id="DRIP_COFFEE_552"></a>DRIP COFFEE</h4> + +<p>One heaping tablespoonful of coffee to a cupful, or half pint, of water +will make black coffee. Put the coffee powder into a felt bag, or on a +thick flannel laid on a strainer and pour the boiling water over it. The +flannel must be thick, and close enough to prevent the fine powder +straining through. If enough coffee is used to make it of much depth in +the strainer, the water will pass through very slowly and the coffee +will be cold, therefore have the pot hot before beginning, and stand it +in a pan of hot water while it is dripping. Coffee will not be right +unless the water is violently boiling when poured on the grounds. Serve +the coffee at once.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_553" id="Page_553">[553]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="BOILED_COFFEE_553" id="BOILED_COFFEE_553"></a>BOILED COFFEE</h4> + +<p>Put the ground coffee into the pot, pour over it boiling water; let it +come to the boiling-point; remove, and stir into it the slightly beaten +white of an egg and the crushed shell; replace it on the fire and let it +boil one minute. This is to clear the coffee of the fine particles held +in suspension. Pour a tablespoonful of cold water down the spout and +place it on the side of the range where it will be perfectly still for +five minutes, then pour off carefully the liquid coffee. Do not let the +coffee boil three minutes altogether. The aroma of the coffee is the +escaped volatile oils—all that is lost detracts just so much from the +flavor of the drink.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ICED_CAFE_AU_LAIT_553" id="ICED_CAFE_AU_LAIT_553"></a>ICED CAFÉ AU LAIT</h4> + +<p>Add enough cold black coffee to milk to give it the desired strength and +flavor. Sweeten to taste and let it stand on ice until ready to serve. +Serve it in glasses instead of cups. Any coffee left from breakfast +prepared in this way makes a refreshing and acceptable drink for +luncheon in summer.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHOCOLATE_553" id="CHOCOLATE_553"></a>CHOCOLATE</h4> + +<p>Maillard’s chocolate is excellent; his receipt is given below. For each +cup of chocolate use one cupful of milk and one bar of chocolate. With +Maillard’s chocolate this is nearly one and a quarter ounces. Put the +cold milk into a porcelain-lined saucepan, break the chocolate into +small pieces, and add them to the milk. Place the saucepan on the fire, +and with a wooden spoon stir constantly and rapidly until the chocolate +is dissolved and the milk has boiled up once. Beat it vigorously to make +it smooth, and serve at once. More milk may be added if this is too +rich. Chocolate should not be kept standing.<a name="FNanchor_553-1_16" id="FNanchor_553-1_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_553-1_16" class="fnanchor">553-*</a></p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_554" id="Page_554">[554]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COCOA_554" id="COCOA_554"></a>COCOA</h4> + +<p>Dissolve a teaspoonful of cocoa in half a cupful of boiling water; then +add a half cupful of boiling milk and boil it for one minute, stirring +vigorously all the time. Sweeten to taste.</p> + +<p>Brioche or Bath buns are good to serve with chocolate or cocoa for a +light lunch.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="LEMONADE_554" id="LEMONADE_554"></a>LEMONADE</h4> + +<p>Squeeze the lemons, allowing two lemons for every three glasses of +lemonade; remove any seeds that may have fallen in, or strain the juice +if the lemonade is wanted clear. Sweeten the juice with sugar, or, +better, with sugar syrup. When ready to use, add the necessary amount of +water and a large piece of ice if served in a bowl, or put cracked ice +into the glasses if only a few glassfuls are made. Put a thin slice of +lemon or a few shavings of lemon-zest into each glass.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="ORANGEADE_554" id="ORANGEADE_554"></a>ORANGEADE</h4> + +<p>To two and one half cupfuls of orange-juice, the juice of two lemons, +and the grated rind of one orange, add two cupfuls of syrup at 32° (see +page <a href="#SYRUPS_513">513</a>), or sweeten to taste; add enough water to bring it to 11° on +the syrup gauge, or to taste; strain and place it on ice until ready to +use.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="COBBLERS_554" id="COBBLERS_554"></a>COBBLERS</h4> + +<p>Put a claret-glassful of claret into a tumbler; add a teaspoonful of +sugar, or sweeten to taste; fill the glass with ice cracked fine, and +add a little water if desired. Place a shaker over the glass and mix it +well; add a strawberry, raspberry, bit of pineapple, orange, or any +fruit convenient; add, also, two straws. Cobblers may be made of sherry, +Catawba, or any wine, using a quantity in proportion to the strength +desired. They are meant as light cooling drinks, and should not be +strong of wine.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_555" id="Page_555">[555]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CLARET_CUP_No_1_555" id="CLARET_CUP_No_1_555"></a>CLARET CUP No. 1</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 pint of claret.</li> + <li>1 pint of soda.</li> + <li>Juice of 1 lemon.</li> + <li>1 sherry-glassful of liqueur.</li> + <li>1 slice of cucumber rind.</li> + <li>1 orange.</li> + <li>Grapes.</li> + <li>Bunch of mint.</li> + <li>Large piece of ice.</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CLARET_CUP_No_2_555" id="CLARET_CUP_No_2_555"></a>CLARET CUP No. 2</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 quart of claret.</li> + <li>1 glassful of white Curaçao.</li> + <li>1 glassful of sherry.</li> + <li>1 slip of borage, or a slice of cucumber.</li> + <li>1 pint of soda.</li> + <li>Juice of 1 orange.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Sweeten to taste.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHAMPAGNE_CUP_No_1_555" id="CHAMPAGNE_CUP_No_1_555"></a>CHAMPAGNE CUP No. 1</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>Juice of ½ lemon.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of powdered sugar.</li> + <li>1 sherry-glassful of liqueur.</li> + <li>1 pint of champagne.</li> + <li>1 pint of soda.</li> + <li>1 slice of cucumber.</li> + <li>1 slice of pineapple.</li> + <li>1 orange cut in pieces.</li> + <li>Bunch of mint.</li> + <li>Large piece of ice.</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CHAMPAGNE_CUP_No_2_555" id="CHAMPAGNE_CUP_No_2_555"></a>CHAMPAGNE CUP No. 2</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 quart of champagne.</li> + <li>1 glassful of white Curaçao.</li> + <li>1 glassful of sherry.</li> + <li>Juice of 1 orange.</li> + <li>1 slip of borage, or a slice of cucumber, or green celery-tops.</li> + <li>1 pint of Apollinaris.</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MOSELLE_CUP_555" id="MOSELLE_CUP_555"></a>MOSELLE CUP</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 quart of Braunberger or Zeltinger.</li> + <li>1 pony of brandy.</li> + <li>Juice of 1 orange.</li> + <li>Juice of 1 lemon.</li> + <li>1 slip of borage or a slice of cucumber.</li> + <li>1 pint of Apollinaris.</li> + <li>No sugar.</li> +</ul> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_556" id="Page_556">[556]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="SAUTERNE_CUP_556" id="SAUTERNE_CUP_556"></a>SAUTERNE CUP</h4> + +<p>Use brand “Graves.”</p> + +<p>To a quart of Sauterne add the strained juice of four large lemons. +Sweeten with powdered sugar to taste, add a cocktail glassful of brandy, +two thirds glassful of maraschino (noyau can be used, but it is not so +good), and a teaspoonful of Angostura bitters. Put it on ice until ready +to use, and then, not before, add a bottle of Delatour soda, also +chilled, or the same amount of soda from syphon. Lastly, add six thin +slices of cucumber and a few pieces of any fruit convenient, such as +pineapple, raspberries, strawberries, etc., and a piece of ice. Borage +is better than cucumber for cups if it can be had.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="CIDER_CUP_556" id="CIDER_CUP_556"></a>CIDER CUP</h4> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 pint of cider.</li> + <li>1 sherry-glassful of sherry.</li> + <li>1 sherry-glassful of brandy.</li> + <li>1 liqueur-glassful of Curaçao.</li> + <li>Piece of ice.</li> + <li>½ of 1 orange sliced.</li> + <li>1 yellow rind of 1 lemon.</li> + <li>1 slice of cucumber.</li> + <li>A dash of nutmeg.</li> + <li>Sugar to taste.</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="THE_THORP_COCKTAIL_556" id="THE_THORP_COCKTAIL_556"></a>THE THORP COCKTAIL</h4> + +<p>The following formula is for one cocktail only; the same proportions +must be observed in making any number of them. Have the glasses well +chilled before beginning, and always use sugar syrup instead of sugar +for sweetening.</p> + +<ul class="ingredients"> + <li>1 teaspoonful of sugar syrup.</li> + <li>1 teaspoonful of orange bitters.</li> + <li>5 teaspoonfuls of Old Tom gin.</li> + <li>5 drops of noyau or maraschino.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Enough cracked ice to chill but not to dilute. Stir with a spoon until +thoroughly chilled and blended. The mixture must not be shaken, as that +fills it with air. Lastly, take a piece of lemon zest the size of a +ten-cent piece, hold it over the cocktail, and express a little of the +oil, then drop it in the glass.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_557" id="Page_557">[557]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="EGG-NOG_557" id="EGG-NOG_557"></a>EGG-NOG</h4> + +<p>Beat the yolk of one egg and a teaspoonful of sugar to a light cream; +whip the white of the egg to a stiff froth; mix them together; turn them +into a glass; add one teaspoonful of rum or brandy and as much milk as +the glass will hold. Stir or shake it well together; add more sugar and +rum if desired. Grate a dash of nutmeg over the top; whipped cream may +be used instead of milk, and will give more nourishment when it is used +for an invalid.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MILK_SHAKE_557" id="MILK_SHAKE_557"></a>MILK SHAKE</h4> + +<p>Fill a glass two thirds full of milk; sweeten it to taste with any fruit +syrup, or with a syrup made of boiled sugar flavored with vanilla, +orange-flower water, or any liqueur; strained preserve of any kind or +liquefied jelly may be used. Fill up the glass with cracked ice and +shake together until well mixed.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="MILK_PUNCH_557" id="MILK_PUNCH_557"></a>MILK PUNCH</h4> + +<p>Add to a glass of milk a teaspoonful or more of sherry, brandy, or rum; +sweeten to taste; shake well and dust over the top a little grated +nutmeg.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="FRUIT_SYRUPS_557" id="FRUIT_SYRUPS_557"></a>FRUIT SYRUPS</h4> + +<p>A refreshing drink can be made of fresh strawberries, raspberries, +cherries, or currants. Cook a quart of fruit with a pint of water until +well softened; then strain and press out the juice through a heavy +cloth. When cold, sweeten and dilute to taste and serve in glasses +filled with cracked ice.</p> + + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="GRAPE-JUICE_557" id="GRAPE-JUICE_557"></a>GRAPE-JUICE</h4> + +<p>Add a quart of water to three quarts of grapes, free from the stems; let +them come slowly to the boiling-point; then strain through a thick +cloth. Return the liquid to the fire, let it again come to the +boiling-point, and turn at once into glass jars and seal immediately. +Use a porcelain-lined kettle and wooden spoon in preparing the juice.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_558" id="Page_558">[558]</a></span></p> + +<h4 class="recipe"><a name="RASPBERRY_VINEGAR_558" id="RASPBERRY_VINEGAR_558"></a>RASPBERRY VINEGAR</h4> + +<p>Put three quarts of ripe raspberries into an earthen bowl; pour over +them a quart of vinegar; at the end of twenty-four hours press and +strain out the liquor and turn it over another three quarts of fresh +ripe berries. Let it stand another twenty-four hours; again express and +strain the juice, and to each pint add a pound of sugar, and boil for +twenty minutes. Turn it into bottles, and cork when cold. When used +dilute the raspberry vinegar with three parts of water.</p> + + + +<h3 class="subchapter"><a name="KOUMISS_558" id="KOUMISS_558"></a>KOUMISS</h3> + + +<div class="explanations"><p>Koumiss, which is simply fermented milk, can easily be made +at home after the receipt given below, and can then be had +sweet and is much more palatable than the acid koumiss sold +at pharmacies. It is a valuable drink or diet for invalids +with weak digestion, or for dyspeptics.</p> + +<p>For making koumiss it is necessary to have strong bottles +(champagne bottles are best), and they must be scrupulously +clean. <span class="sidenote"><b>Driving the corks.</b></span> A corking machine is requisite for driving in the +corks. This is placed over the bottle; the cork, which has +steamed an hour or more in hot water until softened, is +placed in the side opening and the rammer pounded until the +cork is free from the machine. <span class="sidenote"><b>Tying the corks.</b></span> The cork must be tied down to +insure safety. A loop of twine is placed over it, then drawn +tight around the neck of the bottle, brought back, and tied +over the top of the cork.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 83px;"> +<a name="illus-558-f-4" id="illus-558-f-4" href="images/illus-558-f-4-full.png"><img src="images/illus-558-f-4.png" width="83" height="384" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">UTENSIL FOR DRIVING CORKS INTO BOTTLES.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 303px;"> +<a name="illus-558-f-1" id="illus-558-f-1" href="images/illus-558-f-1-full.png"><img src="images/illus-558-f-1.png" width="303" height="114" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">METHOD OF TYING DOWN CORKS IN KOUMISS BOTTLES.</span> +</div> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>The champagne tap.</b></span> A champagne tap for drawing the koumiss is also necessary, as +it contains so much gas, it is impossible to draw the cork +without losing a good part of the contents of the bottle.</p></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 164px;"> +<a name="illus-558-f-3" id="illus-558-f-3" href="images/illus-558-f-3-full.png"><img src="images/illus-558-f-3.png" width="164" height="359" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">CHAMPAGNE TAP FOR DRAWING KOUMISS OR ANY EFFERVESCING +DRINK WITHOUT UNCORKING THE BOTTLE.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 351px;"> +<a name="illus-558-f-2" id="illus-558-f-2" href="images/illus-558-f-2-full.png"><img src="images/illus-558-f-2.png" width="351" height="279" alt="See caption" title="" /></a><br /> +<span class="caption">SHAKERS FOR MIXING ANY ICED DRINKS.</span> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Receipt.</span>—Fill quart bottles three quarters full of fresh milk; add to +each one a tablespoonful of fresh brewer’s yeast<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_559" id="Page_559">[559]</a></span> and a tablespoonful +of sugar syrup. The syrup is made by boiling sugar and water together to +a syrup (the sugar must be used in this form). Shake the bottles for +some minutes to thoroughly mix the ingredients, then fill them nearly +full with milk and shake them again. Cork and tie them, and stand them +upright in a cool place for two and a half days; then turn them on the +side and use as needed. They should be kept in a cool, dark place, so +the fermentation will be slow, and the temperature should be about 52°, +or low enough to prevent the milk from souring.</p> + +<p>Brewer’s yeast is best and gives the koumiss the taste of beer; but +compressed yeast may be used, a fifth of a cake dissolved being added to +each bottleful of milk.</p> + + +<div class="footnotes"> +<p><a name="Footnote_553-1_16" id="Footnote_553-1_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_553-1_16"><span class="label">553-*</span></a> Huyler’s, Baker’s, and other brands of chocolate may be +prepared in the same way, the proportions being regulated by the +richness desired.—M. R.</p> +</div> + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_560" id="Page_560">[560]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="Chapter_XXVII" id="Chapter_XXVII"></a><span class="smcap">Chapter XXVII</span><br /> +<br /> +<a name="WINES_560" id="WINES_560"></a>WINES</h2> + + +<div class="explanations"><p><span class="smcap">The</span> temperance movement has made great advance since the days +when it was not considered etiquette for a man to leave the +table sober, and also from recent times when men lingered at +the table after the ladies had withdrawn, to partake of strong +liquors with their cigars.</p> + +<p>To-day there are some people who exclude wine entirely from +their table, and many others who serve it only in moderation. +It is common now to have but three kinds, such as sherry, +claret and champagne, and sometimes only one. In this respect, +therefore, one may follow his own conviction without fear of +being considered peculiar.</p> + +<p>The usual order of serving wines is as follows:</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>White wines.</b></span> With the first course of the dinner there should be served a +white wine of some kind, such as Niersteiner, Hochheimer, +or Liebfrauenmilch amongst the Rhine wines; Zeltinger, +Josephshöfer, or Scharzberger Muscatel amongst the Moselle +wines; Haut Barsac, Haut Sauterne, or Château Yquem amongst +the white Bordeaux wines; and Chablis, Nuersault or Montrachet +amongst the white Burgundies.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Sherry.</b></span> Sherry is served with soup. It should be light and dry, and +should be chilled by being placed in the ice-box for some +time before dinner. <span class="sidenote"><b>Champagne.</b></span> Champagne is now served with the fish +and continued all through dinner. <span class="sidenote"><br /><b>Claret.</b></span> Claret or Burgundy is +served with the game. Pontet<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_561" id="Page_561">[561]</a></span> Canet, Larose, Léoville, +Margaux, and Lafite are standard vintages amongst the +clarets. <span class="sidenote"><b><br /> Burgundy.</b></span> Chambertin, Clos de Tart, Clos de Vougeot and +Romanée amongst the Burgundies. Claret is sometimes, and +very properly, served at the same time as champagne, as many +people drink no other wine. In this case a higher grade of +claret or a fine Burgundy should be served with the game. +<span class="sidenote"><b>Temperature.</b></span>The white Bordeaux and Burgundy wines should be served cool.</p> + +<p>Rhine and Moselle wines are best at a temperature of about +40° F.</p> + +<p>The champagne should be very dry (brut) and served very cold. +Half an hour in ice and salt before dinner will bring it to +about the right temperature. Sweet champagnes are but seldom +served nowadays, and are more appreciated, perhaps, at ladies’ +luncheons than at dinners. <span class="sidenote"><b>Sweet champagne.</b></span> Sweet champagne cannot be too cold +and should be frappé if convenient. Clarets and Burgundies +should stand upright on the dining-room mantelpiece for at +least twenty-four hours before they are required, in order +that the wine may acquire the temperature of the room, as well +as be prepared for decanting. <span class="sidenote"><b>Care of wines.</b></span> Wines old in bottle will form +more or less deposit, which, if shaken up with the wine, will +injure it. <span class="sidenote"><b><br />Decanting.</b></span> After standing twenty-four hours the sediment will +fall and the wine should then be decanted (with the aid of a +candle), care being taken that no sediment passes into the +decanter.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Port.</b></span> Neither claret nor Burgundy is good the second day after +decanting. They contain too small a percentage of alcohol to +keep their flavor more than a few hours after the bottle is +opened, and what remains over from dinner should be put into +the vinegar demijohn. Ports and Madeiras are but little used +at dinners, but may still be served with the cheese at the +end of dinner, or with the dessert. A glass of port<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_562" id="Page_562">[562]</a></span> with a +biscuit at five o’clock is very popular in many quarters, +and will be welcomed by those who are afraid of tea.</p> + +<p><span class="sidenote"><b>Madeira.</b></span> A fine Madeira may be served with the soup instead of +sherry, and is the wine par excellence to drink with +terrapin. <span class="sidenote"><br /><b>Brandy.</b></span> A superior quality of brandy and various liqueurs +are usually served with coffee. In buying wines it is always +best to go directly to a reliable wine merchant and take his +advice. <span class="sidenote"><b>Liqueurs.</b></span> Especially is this true when the buyer himself has +no great knowledge of the different kinds of wines. It has +been said that a man’s wine merchant should stand in as +close relation to him as his lawyer or his physician.</p></div> + + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_563" id="Page_563">[563]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="divisionhead">INDEXES</h2> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_564" id="Page_564">[564]</a></span></p> + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_565" id="Page_565">[565]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead">ALPHABETICAL INDEX</h2> + + +<p class="indexletter">A</p> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li><b>Agra Dolce</b>, <a href="#AGRA_DOLCE_291">291</a>.</li> + <li><b>Allemande Sauce</b>, <a href="#VELOUTE_AND_ALLEMANDE_SAUCES_279">279</a>.</li> + <li><b>Almonds, burnt</b>, <a href="#BURNT_ALMONDS_520">520</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chopping, <a href="#Chopping_or_Pounding_Almonds_59">59</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><a name="corr36" id="corr36"></a>Hardbake, <a href="#ALMOND_HARDBAKE_526">526</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Salted, <a href="#Salted_almonds_533">533</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> No. 2, <a href="#Salted_almonds_No_2_533">533</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sugared, <a href="#SUGARED_ALMONDS_520">520</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1-5">“</span> Wafers, <a href="#ALMOND_WAFERS_478">478</a>.</li> + <li><b>Anchovy canapés</b>, <a href="#ANCHOVY_CANAPES_368">368</a>.</li> + <li><b>Angel cake</b>, <a href="#WHITE_SPONGE_467">467</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Ice-cream, <a href="#WHITE_OR_ANGEL_ICE-CREAM_497">497</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Parfait, <a href="#ANGEL_PARFAIT_505">505</a>.</li> + <li><b>Angelica</b>, <a href="#Angelica_392">392</a>.</li> + <li><b>Apples</b>, <a href="#Apples_530">530</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Baked for breakfast, <a href="#BAKED_APPLES_BREAKFAST_432">432</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> “ luncheon, <a href="#BAKED_APPLES_LUNCH_432">432</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Compote of, <a href="#APPLE_COMPOTE_535">535</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Clarified, <a href="#CLARIFIED_APPLES_243">243</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Charlotte, <a href="#APPLE_CHARLOTTE_430">430</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Dumplings, <a href="#BAKED_APPLE_DUMPLINGS_429">429</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Flaming, <a name="corr37" id="corr37"></a><a href="#FLAMING_APPLES_432">432</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fritters, <a href="#APPLE_FRITTERS_427">427</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fried with pork, <a href="#FRIED_APPLES_176">176</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Jelly, <a href="#APPLE_JELLY_544">544</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Marmalade of, <a href="#APPLE_MARMALADE_543">543</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pie, <a href="#PLAIN_APPLE_PIE_454">454</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pudding, <a href="#SNOW_APPLE_PUDDING_429">429</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sauce, <a href="#APPLE_SAUCE_243">243</a>, <a href="#APPLE_SAUCE_288">288</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Soufflé, <a href="#APPLE_SOUFFLE_424">424</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">With rice, <a href="#APPLES_WITH_RICE_No_1_430">430</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad0-5">“</span> “ No. 2, <a href="#APPLES_WITH_RICE_No_2_431">431</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad0-5">“</span> Corn-starch, <a href="#APPLES_WITH_CORN-STARCH_432">432</a>.</li> + <li><b>Apricot Sauce</b>, <a href="#APRICOT_SAUCE_446">446</a>.</li> + <li><b>Artichokes</b>, <a href="#ARTICHOKES_220">220</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Bottoms, <a href="#ARTICHOKE_BOTTOMS_221">221</a>.</li> + <li><b>Asparagus</b>, <a href="#ASPARAGUS_211">211</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cream of, <a href="#CREAM_OF_ASPARAGUS_106">106</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Tips, <a href="#ASPARAGUS_TIPS_212">212</a>.</li> + <li><b>Aspic jelly</b>, <a href="#ASPIC_321">321</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To chop, <a href="#TO_CHOP_JELLY_323">323</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To clear, <a href="#TO_CLEAR_ASPIC_322">322</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chicken, <a href="#CHICKEN_ASPIC_323">323</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Croûtons, <a href="#ASPIC_CROUTONS_323">323</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To mold, <a href="#TO_MOLD_JELLY_323">323</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To ornament molds for, <a href="#TO_ORNAMENT_MOLDS_324">324</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Quick, <a href="#QUICK_ASPIC_322">322</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Of pâté en Bellevue, <a href="#ASPIC_OF_PATE_384">384</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="indexletter">B</p> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li><b>Baba</b>, <a href="#BABA_440">440</a>.</li> + <li><b>Bacon</b>, <a href="#BACON_178">178</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">“ how to cut, <a href="#HOW_TO_CUT_BACON_78">78</a>.</li> + <li><b>Baked Apples</b>, <a href="#BAKED_APPLES_BREAKFAST_432">432</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Beans, <a href="#BAKED_DRIED_BEANS_217">217</a>, <a href="#PORK_AND_BEANS_234">234</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Custard, <a href="#BAKED_CUSTARD_396">396</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fish, <a href="#BAKED_FISH_115">115</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Ham, <a href="#BAKED_HAM_177">177</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Lobster, <a href="#TO_BAKE_A_LOBSTER_137">137</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Macaroni, <a href="#BAKED_MACARONI_WITH_CHEESE_225">225</a>.</li> + <li><b>Baking</b>, <a href="#BAKING_69">69</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Bread, <a href="#Baking_343">343</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cake, <a href="#HOW_TO_BAKE_CAKE_464">464</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Custards, <a href="#BAKED_CUSTARD_396">396</a>.</li> + <li><b>Balloons</b>, <a href="#BALLOONS_428">428</a>.</li> + <li><b>Banana trifle</b>, <a href="#BANANA_TRIFLE_412">412</a>.</li> + <li><b>Bananas, sliced</b>, <a href="#Bananas_531">531</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sautéd, fried, <a href="#Bananas_531">531</a>.</li> + <li><b>Barbecue of fish</b>, <a href="#BARBECUE_OF_FISH_331">331</a>.</li> + <li><b>Bath buns</b>, <a href="#BATH_BUNS_358">358</a>.</li> + <li><b>Batter pudding</b>, <a href="#BATTER_PUDDING_428">428</a>.</li> + <li><b>Bavarian creams</b>, <a href="#BAVARIAN_CREAMS_400">400</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">General directions for making, <a href="#BAVARIAN_CREAMS_400">400</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chocolate, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_BAVARIAN_401">401</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Diplomatic, <a href="#DIPLOMATIC_BAVARIAN_403">403</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fruit, <a href="#FRUIT_BAVARIAN_401">401</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">en surprise, <a href="#BAVARIAN_EN_SURPRISE_402">402</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Italian cream, <a href="#ITALIAN_CREAM_401">401</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Panachée, <a href="#BAVARIAN_PANACHEE_402">402</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Plain, <a href="#PLAIN_BAVARIAN_CREAM_400">400</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Rice, <a href="#RICE_BAVARIAN_402">402</a>.</li> + <li><b>Beans</b>, <a href="#DRIED_BEANS_217">217</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Baked, <a href="#BAKED_DRIED_BEANS_217">217</a>, <a href="#PORK_AND_BEANS_234">234</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Boiled, <a href="#BOILED_DRIED_BEANS_217">217</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Croquettes of, <a href="#CROQUETTES_DRIED_BEANS_217">217</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Dried, <a href="#DRIED_BEANS_217">217</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Lima, <a href="#LIMA_BEANS_210">210</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Purée of, <a href="#PUREE_DRIED_BEANS_217">217</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Salads, <a href="#BEAN_SALADS_377">377</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Soup, <a href="#BLACK_BEAN_SOUP_229">229</a>, <a href="#Bean_256">256</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">String, <a href="#STRING_BEANS_209">209</a>.</li> + <li><b>Béarnaise sauce</b>, <a href="#BEARNAISE_288">288</a>.</li> + <li><b>Beating</b>, <a href="#STIRRING_AND_BEATING_78">78</a>.</li> + <li><b>Béchamel sauce</b>, <a href="#BECHAMEL_SAUCE_279">279</a>.</li> + <li><b>Beef</b>, <a href="#TO_ROAST_BEEF_146">146</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">à la mode, <a href="#BEEF_A_LA_MODE_148">148</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Bouilli, <a href="#BOUILLI_149">149</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Braised, <a href="#BRAISED_BEEF_147">147</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cold roast, <a href="#COLD_ROAST_BEEF_151">151</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Corned, <a href="#CORNED_BEEF_157">157</a>, <a href="#CORNED_BEEF_234">234</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> hash, <a href="#CORNED_BEEF_HASH_158">158</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fillet of, <a href="#FILLET_OF_BEEF_149">149</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> How to buy, <a href="#HOW_TO_BUY_A_FILLET_150">150</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Inside flank of, <a href="#INSIDE_FLANK_153">153</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pie, <a href="#BEEF_PIE_152">152</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Raw sandwiches, <a href="#RAW_BEEF_SANDWICHES_367">367</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Ragoût of, <a href="#RAGOUT_OF_BEEF_153">153</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To roast, <a href="#TO_ROAST_BEEF_146">146</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Rolled roast of, <a href="#Rolled_roast_beef_146">146</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Round of, <a href="#ROUND_OF_BEEF_147">147</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Shin of, to prepare, <a href="#TO_PREPARE_SHIN_OF_BEEF_250">250</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Stock, <a href="#BEEF_OR_BROWN_STOCK_88">88</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Tongue, <a href="#BEEFS_TONGUE_174">174</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Warmed over, <a href="#WARMED-OVER_BEEF_152">152</a>.</li> + <li><b>Beefsteaks</b>, <a href="#BEEFSTEAK_155">155</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To broil, <a href="#TO_BROIL_A_BEEFSTEAK_156">156</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pie, <a href="#BEEFSTEAK_PIE_235">235</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pudding, <a href="#BEEFSTEAK_PUDDING_251">251</a>.</li> + <li><b>Beets</b>, <a href="#BEETS_217">217</a>.</li> + <li><b>Berries</b>, <a href="#Berries_531">531</a>.</li> + <li><b>Berry Design for molds</b>, <a href="#BERRY_DESIGN_326">326</a>.</li> + <li><b>Beverages</b>, <a href="#Chapter_XXVI">548</a>.</li> + <li><b>Bird’s-Nest salad</b>, <a href="#BIRDS-NEST_SALAD_385">385</a>.</li> + <li><b>Bischoff sauce</b>, <a href="#BISCHOFF_SAUCE_447">447</a>.</li> + <li><b>Biscuits, beaten</b>, <a href="#MARYLAND_BEATEN_BISCUIT_247">247</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Bran, <a href="#BRAN_BISCUITS_357">357</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Dough fritters, <a href="#FRITTERS_MADE_OF_BISCUIT_DOUGH_428">428</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Tea, <a href="#TEA_BISCUITS_352">352</a>.</li> + <li><b>Biscuit glacé</b>, <a href="#BISCUITS_GLACE_506">506</a>.</li> + <li><b>Bisque of lobster</b>, <a href="#BISQUE_OF_LOBSTER_109">109</a>.</li> + <li><b>Black bean soup</b>, <a href="#BLACK_BEAN_SOUP_229">229</a>.</li> + <li><b>Blanc-mange</b>, <a href="#BLANC-MANGE_399">399</a>.</li> + <li><b>Blueberry pudding</b>, <a href="#BLUEBERRY_PUDDING_241">241</a>.</li> + <li><b>Boiled beans</b>, <a href="#BOILED_DRIED_BEANS_217">217</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cabbage, <a href="#BOILED_CABBAGE_212">212</a>, <a href="#Purified_Cabbage_253">253</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><a name="corr38" id="corr38"></a>Calf’s head, <a href="#BOILED_CALFS_HEAD_175">175</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chicken, <a href="#BOILED_CHICKEN_185">185</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cucumbers, <a name="corr39" id="corr39"></a><a href="#CUCUMBERS_218">218</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Custard, <a href="#BOILED_CUSTARD_NO_1_394">394</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Eggs, <a href="#BOILED_EGGS_262">262</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fish, <a href="#To_boil_a_fish_whole_114">114</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Ham, <a href="#BOILED_HAM_177">177</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Lobster, <a href="#TO_BOIL_A_LOBSTER_136">136</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Mutton, <a href="#BOILED_MUTTON_163">163</a>.</li> + <li><b>Boiling</b>, <a href="#BOILING_67">67</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sugar, <a href="#BOILING_SUGAR_510">510</a>.</li> + <li><b>Bonbons</b>, <a href="#BONBONS_OF_FONDANT_522">522</a>.</li> + <li><b>Bone, to, a fowl</b>, <a href="#TO_BONE_A_FOWL_181">181</a>.</li> + <li><b>Bones, grilled</b>, <a href="#GRILLED_BONES_188">188</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Marrow, <a href="#MARROW-BONES_159">159</a>.</li> + <li><b>Boned chicken</b>, <a href="#ROASTED_BONED_CHICKEN_182">182</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Turkey, <a href="#TURKEY_GALANTINE_193">193</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Shoulder of mutton, <a href="#SHOULDER_OF_MUTTON_STUFFED_163">163</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Shoulder of veal, <a href="#STUFFED_SHOULDER_OF_VEAL_168">168</a>.</li> + <li><b>Boning</b>, <a href="#BONING_77">77</a>.</li> + <li><a name="corr40" id="corr40"></a><b>Boston brown bread</b>, <a href="#BOSTON_BROWN_BREAD_237">237</a>, <a href="#BOSTON_BROWN_BREAD_347">347</a>.</li> + <li><b>Boudins Rouennais</b>, <a href="#BOUDINS_ROUENNAIS_302">302</a>.</li> + <li><b>Bouilli</b>, <a href="#BOUILLI_149">149</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Salad, <a href="#BOUILLI_SALAD_383">383</a>.</li> + <li><b>Bouillon</b>, <a href="#BOUILLON_97">97</a>.</li> + <li><b>Bouquet for soups</b>, <a href="#The_Bouquet_85">85</a>.</li> + <li><b>Brains, calf</b>, <a href="#CALFS_BRAINS_307">307</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Marinade of, <a href="#MARINADE_OF_BRAINS_307">307</a>.</li> + <li><a name="corr41" id="corr41"></a><b>Braising</b>, <a href="#BRAISING_71">71</a>.</li> + <li><b>Braised beef</b>, <a href="#BRAISED_BEEF_147">147</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chicken, <a href="#BRAISED_CHICKEN_186">186</a>.</li> + <li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_566" id="Page_566">[566]</a></span><b>Bran biscuits</b>, <a href="#BRAN_BISCUITS_357">357</a>.</li> + <li><b>Brandy peaches</b>, <a href="#BRANDY_PEACHES_543">543</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sauce, <a href="#BRANDY_RUM_OR_KIRSCH_SAUCE_445">445</a>.</li> + <li><b>Bread</b>, <a href="#Chapter_XV">338</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">General directions for making, <a href="#GENERAL_DIRECTIONS_340">340</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Baking, <a href="#Baking_343">343</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Boston brown, <a href="#BOSTON_BROWN_BREAD_237">237</a>, <a href="#BOSTON_BROWN_BREAD_347">347</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Braids and twists of, <a href="#BRAIDS_AND_TWISTS_350">350</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Care of, <a href="#Care_of_bread_344">344</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cake, <a href="#BREAD_CAKE_482">482</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Corn, <a href="#CORN_BREAD_No_1_353">353</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> soft, <a href="#SOFT_CORN-BREAD_247">247</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fritters, <a href="#BREAD_FRITTERS_349">349</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Graham, <a href="#GRAHAM_BREAD_346">346</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Gluten, <a href="#GLUTEN_BREAD_347">347</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Made with baking powder, <a href="#BREAD_MADE_WITH_BAKING-POWDER_346">346</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Milk, <a href="#MILK_BREAD_345">345</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Mixing, <a href="#Mixing_342">342</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pans, <a href="#Pans_344">344</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Panada, <a href="#BREAD_PANADA_298">298</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Potato, <a href="#POTATO_BREAD_345">345</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pulled, <a href="#PULLED_BREAD_349">349</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Puddings, <a href="#BREAD_PUDDINGS_434">434</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Rolls, <a href="#BREAD_ROLLS_349">349</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sauce, <a href="#BREAD_SAUCE_287">287</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sticks, <a href="#BREAD_STICKS_357">357</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Tarts, <a href="#BREAD_TARTS_435">435</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Thin Indian, <a href="#THIN_INDIAN_BREAD_236">236</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Water, No. 1, <a href="#WATER_BREAD_No_1_345">345</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> No. 2, <a href="#WATER_BREAD_No_2_345">345</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Whole wheat, <a href="#BREAD_MADE_OF_WHOLE_WHEAT_346">346</a>.</li> + <li><b>Bread and Butter Pudding</b>, <a href="#BREAD_AND_BUTTER_PUDDING_434">434</a>.</li> + <li><b>Brioche</b>, <a href="#BRIOCHE_359">359</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Roll, <a href="#BRIOCHE_ROLL_WITH_HEAD_360">360</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Crown, <a href="#BRIOCHE_CROWN_OR_RING_360">360</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">For timbales, <a href="#BRIOCHE_FOR_TIMBALE_361">361</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Timbale of, <a href="#BRIOCHE_FOR_TIMBALE_361">361</a>.</li> + <li><b>Brod Torte</b>, <a href="#BROD_TORTE_472">472</a>.</li> + <li><b>Broiled Lobster</b>, <a href="#TO_BROIL_A_LOBSTER_137">137</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Oysters, <a href="#BROILED_OYSTERS_132">132</a>.</li> + <li><b>Broiling</b>, <a href="#BROILING_70">70</a>.</li> + <li><b>Broth, Chicken</b>, <a href="#CHICKEN_BROTH_95">95</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Clam, <a href="#CLAM_BROTH_95">95</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Mutton, <a href="#MUTTON_BROTH_95">95</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Made quickly for invalids, <a href="#Broth_for_Invalids_96">96</a>.</li> + <li><b>Brown Betty</b>, <a href="#BROWN_BETTY_429">429</a>.</li> + <li><b>Brown butter sauce</b>, <a href="#BEURRE_NOIR_291">291</a>.</li> + <li><b>Brown sauce</b>, <a href="#BROWN_SAUCE_282">282</a>.</li> + <li><b>Brown stock</b>, <a href="#BEEF_OR_BROWN_STOCK_88">88</a>.</li> + <li><b>Browned oysters</b>, <a href="#BROWNED_OYSTERS_231">231</a>.</li> + <li><b>Brussels sprouts</b>, <a href="#BRUSSELS_SPROUTS_214">214</a>.</li> + <li><b>Buckwheat cakes</b>, <a href="#BUCKWHEAT_CAKES_363">363</a>.</li> + <li><b>Buns, Bath</b>, <a href="#BATH_BUNS_358">358</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Brioche, <a href="#TO_MAKE_BUNS_360">360</a>.</li> + <li><b>Burnt almonds</b>, <a href="#BURNT_ALMONDS_520">520</a>.</li> + <li><b>Butter</b>, <a href="#butter_34">34</a>, <a href="#Butter_58">58</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">How to make, <a href="#FRESH_BUTTER_258">258</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="indexletter">C</p> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li><b>Cabbage</b>, <a href="#CABBAGE_212">212</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Boiled, <a href="#BOILED_CABBAGE_212">212</a>, <a href="#Purified_Cabbage_253">253</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Hot slaw, <a href="#HOT_SLAW_214">214</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">With Cheese, <a href="#CABBAGE_WITH_CHEESE_213">213</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Swedish, <a href="#SWEDISH_CABBAGE_213">213</a>.</li> + <li><b>Cabinet puddings</b>, <a href="#CABINET_PUDDING_No_1_438">438</a>.</li> + <li><b>Café frappé</b>, <a href="#CAFE_FRAPPE_509">509</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Parfait, <a href="#PARFAIT_AU_CAFE_504">504</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">au lait, iced, <a href="#ICED_CAFE_AU_LAIT_553">553</a>.</li> + <li><b>Cake</b>, <a href="#Chapter_XXI">462</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Rules for making, <a href="#RULES_462">462</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To line tins with paper, <a href="#HOW_TO_LINE_TINS_WITH_PAPER_463">463</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To grease pans, <a href="#HOW_TO_GREASE_PANS_464">464</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To bake, <a href="#HOW_TO_BAKE_CAKE_464">464</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Mixing sponge, <a href="#MIXING_SPONGE-CAKES_465">465</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Mixing batter, <a href="#MIXING_CAKE_MADE_WITH_BUTTER_465">465</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Angel, <a href="#WHITE_SPONGE_467">467</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Almond wafers, <a href="#ALMOND_WAFERS_478">478</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Bread, <a href="#BREAD_CAKE_482">482</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Brod Torte, <a href="#BROD_TORTE_472">472</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cakes, small fancy, <a href="#FANCY_SMALL_CAKES_475">475</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Carolines, <a href="#CAROLINES_475">475</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chocolate éclairs, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_VANILLA_AND_COFFEE_ECLAIRS_474">474</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chocolate filling for, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_FILLING_469">469</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cocoanut balls, <a href="#COCOANUT_BALLS_477">477</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Coffee, <a href="#COFFEE_CAKE_358">358</a></li> + <li class="subhead">Cookies, plain, <a href="#PLAIN_COOKIES_481">481</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cream, <a href="#CREAM_CAKES_474">474</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cream filling for, <a href="#CREAM_FILLING_468">468</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cream cakes and éclairs, <a href="#CREAM_CAKES_AND_ECLAIRS_473">473</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Crullers, <a href="#CRULLERS_481">481</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cup, plain, <a href="#PLAIN_CUP_CAKE_470">470</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cup, richer, <a href="#RICHER_CUP_471">471</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Doughnuts, <a href="#DOUGHNUTS_481">481</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Éclairs, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_VANILLA_AND_COFFEE_ECLAIRS_474">474</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Election, <a href="#HARTFORD_ELECTION_CAKE_244">244</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fruit, plain, <a href="#PLAIN_FRUIT_CAKE_472">472</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fruit, rich, <a href="#FRUIT_CAKE_473">473</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Garnishing, <a href="#GARNISHING_CAKES_486">486</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Gauffres, <a href="#GAUFFRES_479">479</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Genoese, <a href="#GENOESE_CAKE_467">467</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Gingerbread, soft, <a href="#SOFT_GINGERBREAD_483">483</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Gingersnaps, <a href="#GINGER_SNAPS_481">481</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Gold and silver, <a href="#GOLD-AND-SILVER_CAKE_470">470</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Hoe, <a href="#HOE-CAKE_No_1_246">246</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Hoe, No. 2, <a href="#HOE-CAKE_No_2_247">247</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Hoe, Colonial, <a href="#COLONIAL_HOE-CAKES_237">237</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Hominy, <a href="#HOMINY_CAKE_356">356</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Icing and decorating, <a href="#ICING_AND_DECORATING_CAKES_483">483</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Jelly rolls, <a href="#JELLY_ROLLS_468">468</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Johnny, <a href="#RHODE_ISLAND_JOHNNY-CAKE_237">237</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Jumbles, cookies, plain, <a href="#JUMBLES_COOKIES_AND_PLAIN_CAKES_480">480</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Jumbles, <a href="#JUMBLES_480">480</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Layer, <a href="#LAYER_CAKES_468">468</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Lady fingers, <a href="#LADY-FINGERS_476">476</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Little <a name="corr42" id="corr42"></a>pound-cakes, <a href="#LITTLE_POUND-CAKES_478">478</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Macaroons, <a href="#MACAROONS_477">477</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Madeleines, <a href="#MADELEINES_No_1_477">477</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Marble, <a href="#MARBLE_CAKE_470">470</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Meringues and kisses, <a href="#MERINGUES_AND_KISSES_475">475</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Molasses, <a href="#MOLASSES_CAKE_483">483</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">One egg, <a href="#ONE-EGG_CAKE_482">482</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Orange, <a href="#ORANGE_CAKE_469">469</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Orange filling for, <a href="#ORANGE_FILLING_469">469</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Orange quarters, <a href="#ORANGE_QUARTERS_478">478</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pound, <a href="#POUND-CAKE_471">471</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pistachio, <a href="#PISTACHIO_CAKE_469">469</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sand tarts, <a href="#SAND_TARTS_480">480</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sponge, <a href="#SPONGE-CAKE_No_1_466">466</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sunshine, <a href="#SUNSHINE_CAKE_467">467</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Uses for stale, <a href="#USES_FOR_STALE_CAKE_411">411</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Venetian cakes, <a href="#VENETIAN_CAKES_479">479</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Warren’s, <a href="#WARRENS_CAKE_482">482</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">White, <a href="#WHITE_CAKE_471">471</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">White sponge, <a href="#WHITE_SPONGE_467">467</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">With custard, <a href="#CAKE_WITH_CUSTARD_411">411</a>.</li> + <li><b>Calf’s brains</b>, <a href="#CALFS_BRAINS_307">307</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">à la poulette, <a href="#CALFS_HEAD_A_LA_POULETTE_308">308</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">à la vinaigrette, <a href="#CALFS_HEAD_A_LA_VINAIGRETTE_307">307</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Head boiled, <a href="#BOILED_CALFS_HEAD_175">175</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">With vinaigrette sauce, <a href="#CALFS_HEAD_WITH_VINAIGRETTE_176">176</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Soup, <a href="#CALFS-HEAD_OR_MOCK-TURTLE_SOUP_103">103</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Heart, <a href="#CALFS_HEART_174">174</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Liver, <a href="#BRAISED_LIVER_172">172</a>.</li> + <li><b>Canapés</b>, <a href="#CANAPES_368">368</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Anchovy, <a href="#ANCHOVY_CANAPES_368">368</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cheese, <a href="#CHEESE_CANAPES_368">368</a>, <a href="#CHEESE_CANAPES_371">371</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Ham, <a href="#HAM_CANAPES_368">368</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Lorenzo, <a href="#CANAPE_LORENZO_369">369</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pineapple, <a href="#PINEAPPLE_CANAPES_336">336</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sardine, <a href="#SARDINE_CANAPES_368">368</a>.</li> + <li><b>Canary pudding</b>, <a href="#CANARY_PUDDING_436">436</a>.</li> + <li><b>Candied fruits, California</b>, <a href="#Candied_California_fruits_392">392</a>.</li> + <li><b>Candies</b>, <a href="#CANDIES_517">517</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">General remarks about making, <a href="#CANDIES_517">517</a>.</li> + <li><b>Candy, Molasses</b>, <a href="#MOLASSES_CANDY_527">527</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Peanut, <a href="#PEANUT_CANDY_527">527</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Taffy, <a href="#TAFFY_527">527</a>.</li> + <li><b>Canned fruits</b>, <a href="#Canned_fruits_393">393</a>.</li> + <li><b>Canning</b>, <a href="#PRESERVING_AND_CANNING_536">536</a>.</li> + <li><b>Canvasback ducks</b>, <a href="#CANVASBACKS_196">196</a>.</li> + <li><b>Caper sauce</b>, <a href="#CAPER_SAUCE_164">164</a>, <a href="#CAPER_SAUCE_279">279</a>.</li> + <li><b>Carafes, to freeze</b>, <a href="#TO_FREEZE_CARAFES_548">548</a>.</li> + <li><b>Caramel</b>, <a href="#CARAMEL_78">78</a>, <a href="#Caramel_391">391</a>, <a name="corr43" id="corr43"></a><a href="#CARAMELS_522">522</a>.</li> + <li><b>Carameled nuts</b>, <a href="#CARAMELED_NUTS_526">526</a>.</li> + <li><b>Caramels, chocolate</b>, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_522">522</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Vanilla, coffee, maple, <a href="#VANILLA_COFFEE_MAPLE_522">522</a>.</li> + <li><b>Caramel custard</b>, <a href="#CARAMEL_CUSTARD_396">396</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Ice-cream, <a href="#CARAMEL_ICE-CREAM_No_1_496">496</a>.</li> + <li><b>Carrots and turnips</b>, <a href="#CARROTS_AND_TURNIPS_216">216</a>.</li> + <li><b>Casserole of rice</b>, <a href="#RICE_SOCLE_327">327</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Of potato, <a href="#POTATO_CASSEROLE_327">327</a></li> + <li><b>Cauliflower</b>, <a href="#CAULIFLOWER_214">214</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">au gratin, <a href="#CAULIFLOWER_AU_GRATIN_215">215</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Salad, <a href="#CAULIFLOWER_SALAD_377">377</a>.</li> + <li><b>Celery, cream of</b>, <a href="#CREAM_OF_CELERY_106">106</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Stewed, <a href="#CELERY_STEWED_216">216</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">au jus, <a href="#CELERY_AU_JUS_216">216</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Salad, <a href="#CELERY_SALAD_376">376</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">And walnut salad, <a href="#CELERY_AND_WALNUT_SALAD_381">381</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sauce, <a href="#CELERY_SAUCE_279">279</a>.</li> + <li><b>Cereals</b>, <a href="#CEREALS_227">227</a>.</li> + <li><b>Chafing dish cookery</b>, <a href="#CHAFING-DISH_COOKING_329">329</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Kind of, to use, <a href="#Kind_of_chafing-dish_329">329</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Dishes suitable for, <a href="#Dishes_suitable_330">330</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Oysters in, <a href="#OYSTERS_ON_A_CHAFING-DISH_233">233</a>, <a href="#PANNED_OYSTERS_331">331</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Meats in, <a href="#MEATS_335">335</a>.</li> + <li><b>Champagne cup</b>, No. 1, <a href="#CHAMPAGNE_CUP_No_1_555">555</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">No. 2, <a href="#CHAMPAGNE_CUP_No_2_555">555</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Jelly, <a href="#CHAMPAGNE_JELLY_416">416</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad0-5">“</span> with flowers, <a href="#CHAMPAGNE_JELLY_WITH_FLOWERS_416">416</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sauce, <a href="#CHAMPAGNE_SAUCE_283">283</a>.</li> + <li><b>Charlotte, apple</b>, <a href="#APPLE_CHARLOTTE_430">430</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Russe, <a href="#CHARLOTTE_RUSSE_403">403</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Filling, No. 1, <a name="corr44" id="corr44"></a><a href="#CHARLOTTE_RUSSE_FILLING_No_1_404">404</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> No. 2 (With Eggs), <a href="#CHARLOTTE_RUSSE_FILLING_No_2_405">405</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> No. 3 (With Fruit), <a href="#CHARLOTTE_RUSSE_FILLING_No_3_405">405</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> No. 4, <a href="#CHARLOTTE_RUSSE_FILLING_No_4_405">405</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_567" id="Page_567">[567]</a></span><span class="pad1">“</span> No. 5, <a href="#CHARLOTTE_RUSSE_FILLING_No_5_405">405</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> Princesse de Galles, 406.</li> + <li class="subhead">Strawberry, <a href="#STRAWBERRY_CHARLOTTE_406">406</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Timbale of Brioche, <a href="#TIMBALE_OF_BRIOCHE_406">406</a>.</li> + <li><b>Chartreuse</b>, <a href="#CHARTREUSE_83">83</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Of chicken, <a href="#CHICKEN_CHARTREUSE_190">190</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Of spinach, <a href="#CHARTREUSE_OF_SPINACH_211">211</a>.</li> + <li><b>Chateaubriand</b>, <a href="#CHATEAUBRIAND_157">157</a>.</li> + <li><b>Chaudfroid of chicken</b>, <a href="#CHICKEN_CHAUDFROID_191">191</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Of sweetbreads, <a href="#CHAUDFROID_OF_SWEETBREADS_306">306</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sauce, <a href="#CHAUDFROID_SAUCE_281">281</a>.</li> + <li><b>Cheese</b>, <a href="#CHEESE_AND_CHEESE_DISHES_369">369</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cottage, <a href="#COTTAGE_CHEESE_373">373</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Dishes, <a href="#CHEESE_AND_CHEESE_DISHES_369">369</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> General directions for, <a href="#CHEESE_AND_CHEESE_DISHES_369">369</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Canapés, <a href="#CHEESE_CANAPES_368">368</a>, <a href="#CHEESE_CANAPES_371">371</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">And crackers, <a href="#CRACKERS_AND_CHEESE_371">371</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fondue, <a href="#FONDUE_335">335</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Golden Buck, <a href="#GOLDEN_BUCK_372">372</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Patties, <a href="#CHEESE_PATTIES_373">373</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sandwiches, <a href="#CHEESE_SANDWICHES_367">367</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Soufflé, <a href="#CHEESE_SOUFFLE_370">370</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Straws, <a href="#CHEESE_STRAWS_372">372</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Welsh Rarebit, <a href="#WELSH_RABBIT_371">371</a>.</li> + <li><b>Cherry bread pudding</b>, <a href="#CHERRY_BREAD_241">241</a>.</li> + <li><b>Chestnuts, candied</b>, (marrons glacé), <a href="#MARRONS_GLACE_521">521</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Parfait of, <a href="#PARFAITS_OF_CHESTNUTS_506">506</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pain de marrons, <a href="#PAIN_DE_MARRONS_420">420</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Purée, <a href="#CHESTNUT_PUREE_215">215</a>, <a href="#CHESTNUT_PUREE_410">410</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Stuffing, <a href="#CHESTNUT_STUFFING_185">185</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">With cream, <a href="#CHESTNUTS_WITH_CREAM_410">410</a>.</li> + <li><b>Chickens</b>, <a href="#CHICKENS_179">179</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To judge of, <a href="#To_judge_the_age_of_a_chicken_179">179</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To clean and draw, <a href="#TO_CLEAN_AND_DRAW_POULTRY_180">180</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To bone, <a href="#TO_BONE_A_FOWL_181">181</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To truss, <a href="#TO_TRUSS_A_FOWL_183">183</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">à la Vienne, <a href="#CHICKEN_A_LA_VIENNE_189">189</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Aspic, <a href="#CHICKEN_ASPIC_323">323</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Aspic with walnuts, <a href="#CHICKEN_ASPIC_WITH_WALNUTS_384">384</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Baltimore style, <a href="#CHICKEN_BALTIMORE_STYLE_189">189</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Boiled, <a href="#BOILED_CHICKEN_185">185</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Braised, <a href="#BRAISED_CHICKEN_186">186</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Breasts with poulette sauce, <a href="#CHICKEN_BREASTS_WITH_POULETTE_SAUCE_190">190</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Broiled, <a href="#BROILED_CHICKEN_186">186</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Broth, <a href="#CHICKEN_BROTH_95">95</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Consommé, <a href="#CHICKEN_CONSOMME_100">100</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chartreuse of, <a href="#CHICKEN_CHARTREUSE_190">190</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chaudfroid, <a href="#CHICKEN_CHAUDFROID_191">191</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fricassee, white, brown, <a href="#FRICASSEE_186">186</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fried, <a href="#FRIED_CHICKEN_187">187</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fritters, <a href="#CHICKEN_FRITTERS_187">187</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Gumbo, <a href="#CHICKEN_GUMBO_249">249</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Imperial, <a href="#CHICKEN_IMPERIAL_189">189</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Jellied, boned, <a href="#JELLIED_BONED_CHICKEN_182">182</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><a name="corr45" id="corr45"></a>Legs stuffed, <a href="#STUFFED_CHICKEN_OR_TURKEY_LEGS_188">188</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Livers, <a href="#CHICKEN_LIVERS_309">309</a>, <a href="#CHICKEN_LIVERS_WITH_MADEIRA_333">333</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Mayonnaise, <a href="#CHICKEN_MAYONNAISE_192">192</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pie, English, <a href="#ENGLISH_CHICKEN_PIE_192">192</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Purée, <a href="#CHICKEN_PUREE_310">310</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Soufflé, <a href="#CHICKEN_SOUFFLE_190">190</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Soup, plain, <a href="#PLAIN_CHICKEN_SOUP_100">100</a>.</li> + <li><b>Chocolate</b>, <a href="#Chocolate_388">388</a>, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_553">553</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To melt, <a href="#To_melt_chocolate_388">388</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Bavarian, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_BAVARIAN_401">401</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Caramels, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_522">522</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">With condensed milk, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_MADE_WITH_CONDENSED_MILK_337">337</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cream, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_CREAM_CUSTARD_397">397</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Creams, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_CREAMS_524">524</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Custards, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_CUSTARD_395">395</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Éclairs, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_VANILLA_AND_COFFEE_ECLAIRS_474">474</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Filling for cake, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_FILLING_469">469</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Ice-cream, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_ICE-CREAM_496">496</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Icing No. 1, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_ICING_No_1_484">484</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad0-5">“</span> No. 2, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_ICING_No_2_485">485</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad0-5">“</span> No. <a name="corr46" id="corr46"></a>3, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_ICING_No_3_485">485</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Parfait, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_PARFAIT_504">504</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Peppermints, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_PEPPERMINTS_525">525</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Praliné, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_PARFAIT_504">504</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pudding, <a href="#NO_4_CHOCOLATE_PUDDING_398">398</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sauce, <a href="#Chocolate_sauce_435">435</a>, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_SAUCE_447">447</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Soufflé, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_SOUFFLE_423">423</a>.</li> + <li><b>Chops cut from shoulder</b>, <a href="#Chops_cut_from_the_shoulder_253">253</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fish, <a href="#FISH_CHOPS_121">121</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Lobster, <a href="#LOBSTER_CHOPS_138">138</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Mutton, <a href="#MUTTON_CHOPS_165">165</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">In paper cases, <a href="#CHOPS_IN_PAPER_CASES_166">166</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">à la Maintenon, <a href="#CHOPS_A_LA_MAINTENON_167">167</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pork, <a href="#PORK_CHOPS_177">177</a>.</li> + <li><b>Chow-chow</b>, <a href="#CHOW-CHOW_546">546</a>.</li> + <li><b>Chowder, clam</b>, <a href="#CLAM_CHOWDER_111">111</a>, <a href="#CLAM_CHOWDER_230">230</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fish, <a href="#FISH_CHOWDER_110">110</a>, <a href="#FISH_CHOWDER_230">230</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Potato, <a href="#POTATO_CHOWDER_110">110</a>.</li> + <li><b>Christmas plum pudding</b>, <a href="#CHRISTMAS_PLUM_PUDDING_437">437</a>.</li> + <li><b>Cider cup</b>, <a href="#CIDER_CUP_556">556</a>.</li> + <li><b>Clam broth</b>, <a href="#CLAM_BROTH_95">95</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chowder, <a href="#CLAM_CHOWDER_111">111</a>, <a href="#CLAM_CHOWDER_230">230</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fritters, <a href="#CLAM_FRITTERS_136">136</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Soup, <a href="#CLAM_SOUP_104">104</a>, <a href="#CLAM_SOUP_230">230</a>.</li> + <li><b>Clams</b>, <a href="#CLAMS_135">135</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To open, <a href="#TO_OPEN_CLAMS_135">135</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cream of, <a href="#CREAM_OF_CLAMS_107">107</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Creamed, <a href="#CREAMED_CLAMS_135">135</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Roasted, <a href="#ROASTED_CLAMS_136">136</a>.</li> + <li><b>Claret cup</b> No. 1, <a href="#CLARET_CUP_No_1_555">555</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad0-5">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> No. 2, <a href="#CLARET_CUP_No_2_555">555</a>.</li> + <li><b>Clarified apples</b>, <a href="#CLARIFIED_APPLES_243">243</a>.</li> + <li><b>Clarifying fat</b>, <a href="#TO_CLARIFY_FAT_74">74</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fruit juices, <a href="#To_clarify_fruit_juices_415">415</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Jelly, <a href="#To_clear_jelly_413">413</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Soups, <a href="#Clarifying_86">86</a>.</li> + <li><b>Club house fish balls</b>, <a href="#CLUB_HOUSE_FISH_BALLS_128">128</a>.</li> + <li><b>Cobblers</b>, <a href="#COBBLERS_554">554</a>.</li> + <li><b>Cocoa</b>, <a href="#COCOA_554">554</a>.</li> + <li><b>Cocoanut balls</b>, <a href="#COCOANUT_BALLS_477">477</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cakes, <a href="#COCOANUT_CAKES_525">525</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Creams, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_CREAMS_524">524</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pie, <a href="#COCOANUT_PIE_456">456</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pudding, <a href="#NO_3_COCOANUT_PUDDING_398">398</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sauce, <a href="#COCOANUT_SAUCE_449">449</a>.</li> + <li><b>Codfish and cream</b>, <a href="#CODFISH_AND_CREAM_233">233</a>.</li> + <li><b>Codfish balls</b>, <a href="#FRESH_FISH_BALLS_128">128</a>, <a href="#FISH_BALLS_232">232</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Salt, <a href="#SALT_CODFISH_127">127</a>.</li> + <li><b>Coffee</b>, <a name="corr47" id="corr47"></a><a href="#COFFEE_551">551</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Care of beans, <a href="#CARE_OF_THE_COFFEE-BEAN_551">551</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Mixtures and brands, <a href="#COFFEE_MIXTURES_551">551</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To make, <a href="#TO_MAKE_COFFEE_551">551</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Drip, <a href="#DRIP_COFFEE_552">552</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cake, <a href="#COFFEE_CAKE_358">358</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Ice-cream, <a href="#COFFEE_ICE-CREAM_No_1_497">497</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Iced (au lait), <a href="#ICED_CAFE_AU_LAIT_553">553</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Icing for éclairs, <a href="#COFFEE_ICING_FOR_ECLAIRS_485">485</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Jelly, <a href="#COFFEE_JELLY_416">416</a>.</li> + <li><b>Cold chicken pie</b>, <a href="#ENGLISH_CHICKEN_PIE_192">192</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Desserts, <a href="#CUSTARDS_394">394</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Jelly sauce, <a href="#COLD_JELLY_SAUCE_449">449</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Tongue, <a href="#COLD_TONGUE_175">175</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fish, <a href="#COLD_FISH_123">123</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Roast beef, <a href="#COLD_ROAST_BEEF_151">151</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Slaw, <a name="corr48" id="corr48"></a><a href="#COLD_SLAW_378">378</a>.</li> + <li><b>Coloring</b>, <a href="#COLORING_392">392</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Soups, <a href="#Coloring_87">87</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sugar, <a href="#To_color_sugar_393">393</a>.</li> + <li><b>Common stock</b>, <a href="#Meat_Stock_87">87</a>.</li> + <li><b>Compote of apples</b>, <a href="#APPLE_COMPOTE_535">535</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Oranges, <a href="#COMPOTE_OF_ORANGES_536">536</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Peaches and apricots, <a href="#COMPOTE_OF_PEACHES_536">536</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pears, <a href="#COMPOTE_OF_PEARS_536">536</a>.</li> + <li><b>Consommé</b>, <a href="#CONSOMME_98">98</a>, <a href="#CHICKEN_CONSOMME_100">100</a>.</li> + <li><b>Cookies, plain</b>, <a href="#PLAIN_COOKIES_481">481</a>.</li> + <li><b>Cooking for pleasure</b>, <a href="#COOKING_AS_A_PLEASURE_AND_AN_ACCOMPLISHMENT_38">38</a>.</li> + <li><b>Corned beef</b>, <a href="#CORNED_BEEF_157">157</a>, <a href="#CORNED_BEEF_234">234</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Hash, <a href="#CORNED_BEEF_HASH_158">158</a>.</li> + <li><b>Corn bread</b> (soft), <a href="#SOFT_CORN-BREAD_247">247</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead0">No. 1, <a href="#CORN_BREAD_No_1_353">353</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead0">No. 2, <a href="#CORN_BREAD_No_2_353">353</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Canned, <a href="#CANNED_CORN_220">220</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cream of, <a href="#CREAM_OF_CORN_106">106</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Dodgers, <a href="#KENTUCKY_CORN_DODGERS_247">247</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">On the ear, <a href="#CORN_ON_THE_EAR_220">220</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Mock oysters, <a href="#CORN_MOCK_OYSTERS_220">220</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pudding, <a href="#CORN_PUDDING_236">236</a>.</li> + <li><b>Cornmeal mush</b>, <a href="#CORNMEAL_MUSH_228">228</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fried, <a href="#FRIED_CORN_MUSH_224">224</a>.</li> + <li><b>Cornstarch with apples</b>, <a href="#APPLES_WITH_CORN-STARCH_432">432</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pudding, plain, <a href="#NO_1_PLAIN_CORN-STARCH_PUDDING_397">397</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead2">With canned fruit, <a href="#NO_2_CORN-STARCH_WITH_CANNED_FRUIT_398">398</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead3">cocoanut, <a href="#NO_3_COCOANUT_PUDDING_398">398</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead3">chocolate, <a href="#NO_4_CHOCOLATE_PUDDING_398">398</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chocolates, <a href="#CORN-STARCH_CHOCOLATES_398">398</a>.</li> + <li><b>Cottage pudding</b>, <a href="#COTTAGE_PUDDING_435">435</a>.</li> + <li><b>Courses</b>, <a href="#COURSES_24">24</a>.</li> + <li><b>Court bouillon</b>, <a href="#COURT_BOUILLON_115">115</a>.</li> + <li><b>Crab-apple jelly</b>, <a href="#CRAB-APPLE_JELLY_544">544</a>.</li> + <li><b>Crabs</b>, <a href="#CRABS_141">141</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Deviled, <a href="#DEVILED_CRABS_141">141</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Crabs, oyster, <a href="#OYSTER-CRABS_143">143</a>, <a href="#OYSTER-CRABS_310">310</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead2">Entrée of, <a href="#ENTREE_OF_OYSTER-CRABS_310">310</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Soft-shell, <a href="#SOFT-SHELL_CRABS_142">142</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Stew, <a href="#CRAB_STEW_144">144</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">St. Laurent, <a href="#CRABS_ST_LAURENT_143">143</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Stuffed with mushrooms, <a href="#STUFFED_CRABS_142">142</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><a name="corr49" id="corr49"></a>Toast, <a href="#CRAB_TOAST_334">334</a>.</li> + <li><b>Cracked wheat</b>, <a href="#CRACKED_WHEAT_228">228</a>.</li> + <li><b>Cranberry jelly</b>, <a href="#CRANBERRY_JELLY_244">244</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pie, <a href="#CRANBERRY_PIE_456">456</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sauce, <a href="#CRANBERRY_SAUCE_287">287</a>.</li> + <li><b>Cream of asparagus</b>, <a href="#CREAM_OF_ASPARAGUS_106">106</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Celery, <a href="#CREAM_OF_CELERY_106">106</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Clams, <a href="#CREAM_OF_CLAMS_107">107</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Of corn, <a href="#CREAM_OF_CORN_106">106</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Of green peas, <a href="#CREAM_OF_GREEN_PEAS_106">106</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Of oysters, <a href="#CREAM_OF_OYSTERS_108">108</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Of string beans, <a href="#CREAM_OF_STRING_BEANS_106">106</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cakes, <a href="#CREAM_CAKES_474">474</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chicken forcemeat, No. 1, <a href="#CREAM_CHICKEN_FORCEMEAT_297">297</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1-5">“</span> <span class="pad1-5">“</span> <a name="corr50" id="corr50"></a>No. 2, <a href="#CREAM_FORCEMEAT_No_2_297">297</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_568" id="Page_568">[568]</a></span>Czarina, <a href="#CZARINA_CREAM_410">410</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Devonshire, <a href="#DEVONSHIRE_CREAM_No_1_258">258</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Dressing, <a href="#CREAM_DRESSING_235">235</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fried, <a href="#FRIED_CREAM_441">441</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Italian, <a href="#ITALIAN_CREAM_401">401</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pie, <a href="#CREAM_PIE_455">455</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To whip, <a href="#WHIPPED_CREAM_408">408</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Soups, <a href="#Cream_Soups_85">84</a>, <a href="#CREAM_SOUPS_105">105</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Whips, <a href="#WHIPS_409">409</a>.</li> + <li><b>Creamed clams</b>, <a href="#CREAMED_CLAMS_135">135</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad0-5">“</span> <span class="pad1-5left">dishes,</span> <a href="#CREAMED_DISHES_332">332</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad0-5">“</span> <span class="pad1-5left">mackerel,</span> <a href="#CREAMED_MACKEREL_127">127</a>.</li> + <li><b>Creams, chocolate</b>, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_CREAMS_524">524</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cocoanut, <a href="#COCOANUT_CREAMS_524">524</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Nut, <a href="#NUT_CREAMS_523">523</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Peppermint, <a href="#PEPPERMINT_CREAMS_525">525</a>.</li> + <li><b>Crême Parisienne</b>, <a href="#CREME_PARISIENNE_441">441</a>.</li> + <li><b>Croquenbouche of Macaroons</b>, <a href="#CROQUENBOUCHE_OF_MACAROONS_408">408</a>.</li> + <li><b>Croquettes</b>, <a href="#CROQUETTES_292">292</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sauce for mixing, <a href="#SAUCE_FOR_CROQUETTE_MIXTURE_293">293</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To mold, <a href="#TO_MOLD_CROQUETTES_293">293</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To fry, <a href="#TO_FRY_CROQUETTES_294">294</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Materials used for, <a href="#MATERIALS_USED_FOR_CROQUETTES_295">295</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Bean, <a href="#CROQUETTES_DRIED_BEANS_217">217</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Egg, <a href="#EGG_CROQUETTES_272">272</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Potato, <a href="#POTATO_CROQUETTES_202">202</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sweet potato, <a href="#SWEET_POTATO_CROQUETTES_207">207</a>.</li> + <li><b>Croustade of shrimps</b>, <a href="#CROUSTADE_OF_SHRIMPS_130">130</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Bread, <a href="#CROUSTADES_OF_BREAD_328">328</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Rolls, <a name="corr51" id="corr51"></a><a href="#ROLL_CROUSTADES_328">328</a>.</li> + <li><b>Croûte-au-pot</b>, <a href="#Croute_au_Pot_90">89</a>.</li> + <li><b>Croûtons and croustades</b>, <a href="#CROUTONS_AND_CROUSTADES_81">81</a>.</li> + <li><b>Crullers</b>, <a href="#CRULLERS_481">481</a>.</li> + <li><b>Crumbs</b>, <a href="#Bread_51">51</a>, <a href="#The_Crumbs_75">75</a>.</li> + <li><b>Crumpets</b>, <a href="#ENGLISH_MUFFINS_355">355</a>.</li> + <li><b>Cucumbers, boiled</b>, <a href="#CUCUMBERS_218">218</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pickles, <a href="#CUCUMBER_OR_GHERKIN_PICKLES_545">545</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Salad for fish, <a href="#CUCUMBER_SALAD_377">377</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Stuffed, <a href="#CUCUMBERS_218">218</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">And tomato salad, <a href="#CUCUMBER_AND_TOMATO_SALAD_377">377</a>.</li> + <li><b>Cup cake</b>, <a href="#PLAIN_CUP_CAKE_470">470</a>, <a href="#RICHER_CUP_471">471</a>.</li> + <li><b>Currant jelly</b>, <a href="#CURRANT_OR_ANY_BERRIES_543">543</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Shortcake, <a href="#CURRANT_SHORTCAKE_442">442</a>.</li> + <li><b>Currants</b>, <a href="#Currants_531">531</a>.</li> + <li><b>Curried eggs</b>, <a href="#CURRIED_EGGS_271">271</a>.</li> + <li><b>Curry</b>, <a href="#Curry_254">254</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Madras, <a href="#Madras_curry_254">254</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sauce, <a href="#CURRY_SAUCE_284">284</a>.</li> + <li><b>Custards</b>, <a href="#CUSTARDS_394">394</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Baked, <a href="#BAKED_CUSTARD_396">396</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Boiled, No. 1, <a href="#BOILED_CUSTARD_NO_1_394">394</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> No. 2, <a href="#BOILED_CUSTARD_NO_2_395">395</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Caramel, <a href="#CARAMEL_CUSTARD_396">396</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chocolate, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_CUSTARD_395">395</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1-5">“</span> baked, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_CREAM_CUSTARD_397">397</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1-5">“</span> cream, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_CREAM_CUSTARD_397">397</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Rennet, <a href="#RENNET_CUSTARD_397">397</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sauce, boiled, <a href="#BOILED_CUSTARD_SAUCE_447">447</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="indexletter">D</p> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li><b>Dabs</b>, <a href="#DABS_238">238</a>.</li> + <li><b>Daisy designs for molds</b>, <a href="#DAISY_DESIGN_326">326</a>.</li> + <li><b>Daubing</b>, <a href="#DAUBING_76">76</a>.</li> + <li><b>Decorating cakes</b>, <a href="#GARNISHING_CAKES_486">486</a>.</li> + <li><b>Decorations for meat jelly</b>, <a href="#DECORATIONS_FOR_MEAT_JELLY_326">326</a>.</li> + <li><b>Desserts, information pertaining to</b>, <a href="#COLD_DESSERTS_386">386</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cold, <a href="#CUSTARDS_394">394</a>.</li> + <li><b>Deviled crabs</b>, <a href="#DEVILED_CRABS_141">141</a>.</li> + <li><b>Devonshire cream</b>, <a href="#DEVONSHIRE_CREAM_No_1_258">258</a>.</li> + <li><b>Diplomatic Bavarian</b>, <a href="#DIPLOMATIC_BAVARIAN_403">403</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pudding, <a href="#DIPLOMATIC_PUDDING_403">403</a>.</li> + <li><b>Dishes à la Newburg</b>, <a href="#LOBSTER_A_LA_NEWBURG_139">139</a>, <a href="#DISHES_A_LA_NEWBURG_333">333</a>.</li> + <li><b>Doughnuts</b>, <a href="#DOUGHNUTS_481">481</a>.</li> + <li><b>Dried beans</b>, <a href="#DRIED_BEANS_217">217</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Mushrooms, <a href="#TO_DRY_MUSHROOMS_320">320</a>.</li> + <li><b>Drip coffee</b>, <a href="#DRIP_COFFEE_552">552</a>.</li> + <li><b>Drippings</b>, <a href="#Fat_51">51</a>, <a href="#Drippings_59">59</a>.</li> + <li><b>Ducks, tame</b>, <a href="#TAME_DUCKS_195">195</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Canvasbacks and redheads, <a href="#CANVASBACKS_196">196</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Salmi of, <a href="#SALMI_OF_DUCK_196">196</a>.</li> + <li><b>Dumplings, apple</b>, <a href="#BAKED_APPLE_DUMPLINGS_429">429</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">With baking powder, <a name="corr52" id="corr52"></a><a href="#DUMPLINGS_WITH_BAKING_POWDER_170">170</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad0-5">“</span> suet, <a href="#DUMPLINGS_WITH_SUET_170">170</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="indexletter">E</p> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li><a name="corr53" id="corr53"></a><b>Éclairs</b>, <a href="#CREAM_CAKES_AND_ECLAIRS_473">473</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chocolate, vanilla, coffee, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_VANILLA_AND_COFFEE_ECLAIRS_474">474</a>.</li> + <li><b>Economical living</b>, <a href="#ECONOMICAL_LIVING_44">44</a>.</li> + <li><b>Eggs</b>, <a href="#Eggs_58">58</a>, <a href="#To_judge_of_freshness_261">261</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">à l’Aurore, <a href="#EGGS_A_LAURORE_270">270</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">à la Bourguinonne, <a href="#EGGS_A_LA_BOURGUINONNE_270">270</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">à la Polignac, <a href="#A_LA_POLIGNAC_267">267</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">à la Reine, <a href="#EGGS_A_LA_REINE_273">273</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">à la Villeroi, <a href="#EGGS_A_LA_VILLEROI_269">269</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">au beurre noir, <a href="#EGGS_AU_BEURRE_NOIR_273">273</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">au miroir, <a href="#au_miroir_267">266</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Balls for soup, <a href="#EGG_BALLS_92">92</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Boiled, <a href="#BOILED_EGGS_262">262</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cocotte, <a href="#cocotte_267">266</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Croquettes, <a href="#EGG_CROQUETTES_272">272</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Curried, <a href="#CURRIED_EGGS_271">271</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fried, <a href="#FRIED_EGGS_264">264</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Golden cream toast, <a href="#GOLDEN_CREAM_TOAST_270">270</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">How to judge and keep, <a href="#To_judge_of_freshness_261">261</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Livingston, <a href="#EGGS_LIVINGSTON_273">273</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><a name="corr54" id="corr54"></a>Nog, <a href="#EGG-NOG_557">557</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><a name="corr55" id="corr55"></a>Omelet, <a href="#PLAIN_FRENCH_OMELET_264">264</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Poached, <a href="#POACHED_EGGS_No_1_263">263</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">On anchovy toast, <a href="#POACHED_EGGS_ON_ANCHOVY_TOAST_268">268</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad0-5">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span> (entrée), <a href="#POACHED_EGGS_WITH_ANCHOVY_268">268</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Salads, <a href="#EGG_SALAD_No_1_381">381</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sandwiches, <a href="#EGG_SANDWICHES_366">366</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sauce, <a href="#EGG_SAUCE_FOR_BOILED_FISH_278">278</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Scrambled, <a href="#SCRAMBLED_EGGS_264">264</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Shirred, <a href="#SHIRRED_EGGS_266">266</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Stuffed, <a href="#STUFFED_EGGS_No_1_271">271</a>, <a href="#STUFFED_EGGS_No_2_272">272</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sur le plat, <a href="#sur_le_plat_266">266</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">With tomatoes, <a href="#POACHED_EGG_WITH_TOMATO_268">268</a>, <a href="#EGGS_WITH_TOMATOES_332">332</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">In tomatoes, <a href="#No_3_TOMATOES_AND_EGGS_380">380</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To whip, <a href="#To_whip_eggs_389">389</a>, <a href="#HOW_TO_BEAT_EGGS_463">463</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Plant, <a href="#EGG-PLANT_215">215</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> stuffed, <a href="#STUFFED_EGG-PLANT_215">215</a>.</li> + <li><b>Election cake</b>, <a href="#HARTFORD_ELECTION_CAKE_244">244</a>.</li> + <li><b>Emergencies</b>, <a href="#EMERGENCIES_55">55</a>.</li> + <li><b>English muffins</b>, <a href="#ENGLISH_MUFFINS_355">355</a>.</li> + <li><a name="corr56" id="corr56"></a><b>Enterprise chopper</b>, <a href="#ENTERPRISE_CHOPPER_293">293</a>.</li> + <li><b>Entrées</b>, <a href="#Chapter_XII">292</a>.</li> + <li><b>Espagnole sauce</b>, <a href="#ESPAGNOLE_282">282</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="indexletter">F</p> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li><b>False terrapin</b>, <a href="#FALSE_TERRAPIN_308">308</a>.</li> + <li><b>Fancy molding</b>, <a href="#Molding_for_fancy_jellies_413">413</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">In aspic, <a href="#TO_ORNAMENT_MOLDS_324">324</a>.</li> + <li><a name="corr57" id="corr57"></a><b>Farinaceous foods</b>, <a href="#Chapter_VII">222</a>.</li> + <li><b>Farina balls</b>, <a href="#FARINA_BALLS_223">223</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pudding, <a href="#FARINA_PUDDING_424">424</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Boiled, <a href="#FARINA_PUDDING_436">436</a>.</li> + <li><b>Fat, to clarify</b>, <a href="#TO_CLARIFY_FAT_74">74</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To try out, <a href="#TO_TRY_OUT_SUET_AND_OTHER_FATS_74">74</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Saving, <a href="#Fat_51">51</a>.</li> + <li><b>Figs</b>, <a name="corr58" id="corr58"></a><a href="#Stewed_figs_531">531</a>.</li> + <li><b>Fig pudding</b>, <a href="#FIG_PUDDING_438">438</a>.</li> + <li><b>Fillet of beef</b>, <a href="#FILLET_OF_BEEF_149">149</a>.</li> + <li><b>Fillets of fish</b>, <a href="#To_skin_bone_112">112</a>, <a href="#FRIED_FILLETS_OF_FISH_118">118</a>, <a href="#ROLLED_FILLETS_OF_FLOUNDER_125">125</a>.</li> + <li><b>Fillets mignon</b>, <a href="#MIGNON_FILLETS_157">157</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Of salmon, <a href="#FILLETS_OF_SALMON_FOR_GREEN_LUNCHEON_130">130</a>.</li> + <li><b>Filtered water</b>, <a href="#FILTERED_WATER_548">548</a>.</li> + <li><b>Fish</b>, <a href="#Chapter_III">112</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Balls, <a href="#CLUB_HOUSE_FISH_BALLS_128">128</a>, <a href="#FISH_BALLS_232">232</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad0-5">“</span> fresh, <a href="#FRESH_FISH_BALLS_128">128</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Baked, <a href="#BAKED_FISH_115">115</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Barbecue of, <a href="#BARBECUE_OF_FISH_331">331</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Bones of, <a href="#The_bones_112">112</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To bone and remove fillets, <a href="#To_skin_bone_112">112</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To boil, <a href="#TO_BOIL_FISH_113">113</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Time to boil, <a href="#Time_113">113</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To boil whole, <a href="#To_boil_a_fish_whole_114">114</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To serve boiled, <a href="#Serving_114">114</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sauces for boiled, <a href="#Sauces_114">114</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Court bouillon for, <a href="#COURT_BOUILLON_115">115</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To broil, <a href="#TO_BROIL_FISH_116">116</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To carve, <a href="#TO_CARVE_FISH_113">113</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cold, <a href="#COLD_FISH_123">123</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cooking, <a href="#Cooking_112">112</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chops, <a href="#FISH_CHOPS_121">121</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chowder, <a href="#FISH_CHOWDER_110">110</a>, <a href="#FISH_CHOWDER_230">230</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Dish for pink luncheon, <a href="#FISH_DISH_FOR_A_PINK_LUNCHEON_124">124</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Dressing, <a href="#Dressing_112">112</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fillets of, <a href="#To_skin_bone_112">112</a>, <a href="#FRIED_FILLETS_OF_FISH_118">118</a>, <a href="#FILLETS_BAKED_WITH_CUSTARD_122">122</a>, <a href="#ROLLED_FILLETS_OF_FLOUNDER_125">125</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fillets of, baked with custard or tomatoes, 122.</li> + <li class="subhead">To fry, <a href="#TO_FRY_FISH_117">117</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fillets of fried, <a href="#FRIED_FILLETS_OF_FISH_118">118</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Freshness of, <a href="#Freshness_112">112</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Frozen, <a href="#Keeping_112">112</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Forcemeat of, <a href="#FISH_CREAM_FORCEMEAT_297">297</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Garnishing, <a href="#Garnishes_114">114</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Kettle, <a href="#The_Kettle_113">113</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Keeping, <a href="#Keeping_112">112</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pudding, <a href="#FISH_PUDDING_123">123</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">And oysters, <a href="#FISH_AND_OYSTERS_231">231</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sauces for, <a href="#General_directions_275">275</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sandwiches, <a href="#Fish_sandwiches_366">366</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Scalloped, <a href="#SCALLOPED_FISH_120">120</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1-5">“</span> au gratin, <a href="#SCALLOPED_FISH_AU_GRATIN_121">121</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Stock and soup, <a href="#FISH_STOCK_103">103</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To sauté, <a href="#TO_SAUTE_FISH_117">117</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Timbale, <a href="#FISH_TIMBALE_123">123</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Trimming, <a href="#Trimming_112">112</a>.</li> + <li><b>Five o’clock tea</b>, <a href="#THE_FIVE_OCLOCK_TEA_33">33</a>.</li> + <li><b>Flageolets</b>, <a href="#FLAGEOLETS_210">210</a>.</li> + <li><b>Flaming apples</b>, <a href="#FLAMING_APPLES_432">432</a>.</li> + <li><b>Flavoring</b>, <a href="#Flavoring_60">60</a>, <a href="#SEASONING_AND_FLAVORING_80">80</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">When to add, <a href="#Flavoring_389">389</a>.</li> + <li><b>Flavors</b>, <a href="#FLAVORS_389">389</a>.</li> + <li><b>Floating Island</b>, <a href="#FLOATING_ISLAND_395">395</a>.</li> + <li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_569" id="Page_569">[569]</a></span><b>Flounder, rolled fillets of</b>, <a href="#ROLLED_FILLETS_OF_FLOUNDER_125">125</a>.</li> + <li><b>Flowers for garnishing</b>, <a href="#Fresh_flowers_393">393</a>.</li> + <li><b>Floor polish</b>, <a href="#FLOOR_POLISH_260">260</a>.</li> + <li><b>Foamy sauce</b>, <a href="#FOAMY_SAUCE_445">445</a>.</li> + <li><b>Fondant</b>, <a href="#FONDANT_513">513</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To make, <a href="#TO_MAKE_FONDANT_514">514</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Bonbons of, <a href="#BONBONS_OF_FONDANT_522">522</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Icing, <a href="#FONDANT_ICING_485">485</a>.</li> + <li><b>Fondue</b>, <a href="#FONDUE_335">335</a>.</li> + <li><b>Fontage cups</b>, <a href="#FONTAGE_CUPS_300">300</a>.</li> + <li><b>Forcemeat, chicken, cream</b>, <a href="#CREAM_CHICKEN_FORCEMEAT_297">297</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">No. 2, <a href="#CREAM_FORCEMEAT_No_2_297">297</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fish, cream, <a href="#FISH_CREAM_FORCEMEAT_297">297</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Quenelle, <a href="#QUENELLE_FORCEMEAT_298"><b>298</b></a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Balls, <a href="#FORCE-MEAT_BALLS_92">92</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">For boned fowls, <a href="#FORCEMEAT_183">183</a>.</li> + <li><b>Fowls, to bone</b>, <a href="#TO_BONE_A_FOWL_181">181</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To truss, <a href="#TO_TRUSS_A_FOWL_183">183</a>.</li> + <li><b>French dressing for salads</b>, <a href="#FRENCH_DRESSING_375">375</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Omelet, <a href="#PLAIN_FRENCH_OMELET_264">264</a>.</li> + <li><b>Fricasseeing</b>, <a href="#FRICASSEEING_71">71</a>.</li> + <li><b>Fricassee of chicken</b>, <a href="#FRICASSEE_186">186</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Oysters, <a href="#FRICASSEED_OYSTERS_232">232</a>.</li> + <li><b>Fried bananas</b>, <a href="#Bananas_531">531</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cream, <a href="#FRIED_CREAM_441">441</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Corn-meal mush, <a href="#FRIED_CORN_MUSH_224">224</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Hominy, <a href="#FRIED_HOMINY_224">224</a>.</li> + <li><b>Fried oysters</b>, <a href="#FRIED_OYSTERS_132">132</a>.</li> + <li><b>Fritters</b>, <a href="#FRITTERS_426">426</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Apple, <a href="#APPLE_FRITTERS_427">427</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Batter, <a href="#FRITTER_BATTER_426">426</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Biscuit dough, <a href="#FRITTERS_MADE_OF_BISCUIT_DOUGH_428">428</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Bread, <a href="#BREAD_FRITTERS_349">349</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chicken, <a href="#CHICKEN_FRITTERS_187">187</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Orange, <a href="#ORANGE_FRITTERS_427">427</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Peach or apricot, <a href="#PEACH_OR_APRICOT_FRITTERS_427">427</a>.</li> + <li><b>Frogs’ legs, fried</b>, <a href="#FRIED_FROGS_LEGS_313">313</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">à la poulette, <a href="#FROGS_LEGS_A_LA_POULETTE_313">313</a>.</li> + <li><b>Frosting, instantaneous</b>, <a href="#INSTANTANEOUS_FROSTING_245">245</a>.</li> + <li><b>Frozen desserts</b>, <a href="#Chapter_XXII">488</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Remarks about, <a href="#ICE-CREAMS_488">488</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fruits, <a href="#FRUIT_ICE-CREAMS_501">501</a>, <a href="#Frozen_fruits_532">532</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Punches, <a href="#PUNCHES_AND_SHERBETS_508">508</a>.</li> + <li><b>Fruit cake, plain</b>, <a href="#PLAIN_FRUIT_CAKE_472">472</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Rich, <a href="#FRUIT_CAKE_473">473</a>.</li> + <li><b>Fruits</b>, <a href="#Chapter_XXIV">529</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Remarks about, <a href="#FRUITS_529">529</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Bavarian, <a href="#FRUIT_BAVARIAN_401">401</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Frozen, <a href="#FRUIT_ICE-CREAMS_501">501</a>, <a href="#Frozen_fruits_532">532</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Ice-creams, <a href="#FRUIT_ICE-CREAMS_501">501</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Jellied, <a href="#JELLIED_FRUIT_534">534</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Juices, <a href="#FRUIT_JUICES_534">534</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> To thicken, <a href="#Thickening_389">389</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pudding, <a href="#FRUIT_PUDDING_443">443</a>, <a href="#Fruit_puddings_No_4_502">502</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Salpicon of, <a href="#Salpicon_of_fruits_532">532</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1-5">“</span> punch, <a href="#SALPICON_OF_FRUIT_PUNCH_533">533</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sauces, <a href="#FRUIT_SAUCES_446">446</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Syrups, <a href="#FRUIT_SYRUPS_557">557</a>.</li> + <li><b>Frying</b>, <a href="#FRYING_72">72</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To prepare articles for, <a href="#TO_PREPARE_ARTICLES_FOR_FRYING_75">75</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="indexletter">G</p> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li><b>Galantine of turkey</b>, <a href="#TURKEY_GALANTINE_193">193</a>.</li> + <li><b>Garnishing</b>, <a href="#GARNISHING_392">392</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Boiled fish, <a href="#Garnishes_114">114</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cakes, <a href="#GARNISHING_CAKES_486">486</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">With flowers, <a href="#Fresh_flowers_393">393</a>.</li> + <li><b>Garnishes for soups</b>, <a href="#GARNISHES_FOR_SOUPS_92">92</a>.</li> + <li><b>Gâteau St. Honoré</b>, <a href="#GATEAU_ST_HONORE_407">407</a>.</li> + <li><b>Gauffres</b>, <a href="#GAUFFRES_479">479</a>.</li> + <li><b>Gelatine</b>, <a href="#Gelatine_60">60</a>, <a href="#Gelatine_388">388</a>.</li> + <li><b>Gems, corn</b>, <a href="#CORN_GEMS_354">354</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Graham, <a href="#GRAHAM_GEMS_237">237</a>, <a href="#GRAHAM_GEMS_354">354</a>.</li> + <li><b>Genoese cake</b>, <a href="#GENOESE_CAKE_467">467</a>.</li> + <li><b>Giblet sauce</b>, <a href="#GIBLET_SAUCE_185">185</a>.</li> + <li><b>Gingerbread, soft</b>, <a href="#SOFT_GINGERBREAD_483">483</a>.</li> + <li><b>Ginger snaps</b>, <a href="#GINGER_SNAPS_481">481</a>.</li> + <li><b>Glacé oranges and grapes</b>, <a href="#GLACE_ORANGES_AND_GRAPES_516">516</a>.</li> + <li><b>Glaze</b>, <a href="#GLAZE_277">277</a>.</li> + <li><b>Gluten bread</b>, <a href="#GLUTEN_BREAD_347">347</a>.</li> + <li><b>Gold and silver cake</b>, <a href="#GOLD-AND-SILVER_CAKE_470">470</a>.</li> + <li><b>Golden buck</b>, <a href="#GOLDEN_BUCK_372">372</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cream toast, <a href="#GOLDEN_CREAM_TOAST_270">270</a>.</li> + <li><b>Goose, roast</b>, <a href="#ROAST_GOOSE_194">194</a>.</li> + <li><b>Graham bread</b>, <a href="#GRAHAM_BREAD_346">346</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Gems, <a href="#GRAHAM_GEMS_237">237</a>, <a href="#GRAHAM_GEMS_354">354</a>.</li> + <li><b>Grape fruit</b>, <a href="#grape-fruit_530">530</a>.</li> + <li><b>Grapes glacé</b>, <a href="#GLACE_ORANGES_AND_GRAPES_516">516</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Juice, <a href="#GRAPE-JUICE_557">557</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Preserved, <a href="#GRAPE_PRESERVES_539">539</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Spiced, <a href="#SPICED_GRAPES_544">544</a>.</li> + <li><b>Grease, removing from soups</b>, <a href="#Removing_the_Grease_86">86</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Saving, <a href="#Fat_51">51</a>.</li> + <li><b>Green peas</b>, <a href="#GREEN_PEAS_209">209</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cream of, <a href="#CREAM_OF_GREEN_PEAS_106">106</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Timbale of, for soups, 94.</li> + <li><b>Grilled bones</b>, <a href="#GRILLED_BONES_188">188</a>.</li> + <li><b>Grouse, roasted</b>, <a href="#PRAIRIE-CHICKEN_197">197</a>.</li> + <li><b>Gumbo filé</b>, <a href="#GUMBO_FILE_248">248</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="indexletter">H</p> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li><b>Halibut steaks, boiled</b>, <a href="#BOILED_HALIBUT_STEAKS_119">119</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Turkish style, <a href="#HALIBUT_TURKISH_STYLE_120">120</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Timbale, <a href="#SIMPLE_TIMBALE_OF_HALIBUT_303">303</a>.</li> + <li><b>Ham boiled</b>, <a href="#BOILED_HAM_177">177</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Baked, <a href="#BAKED_HAM_177">177</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">And eggs, broiled, <a href="#BROILED_HAM_AND_EGGS_178">178</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">à l’Aurore, <a href="#HAM_AND_EGGS_A_LAURORE_178">178</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Canapés, <a href="#HAM_CANAPES_368">368</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Omelet, <a href="#VARIATIONS_OF_THE_OMELET_No_6_266">266</a>.</li> + <li><b>Hamburg steaks</b>, <a href="#HAMBURG_STEAKS_151">151</a>.</li> + <li><b>Hard sauce</b>, <a href="#HARD_SAUCE_448">448</a>.</li> + <li><b>Harlequin balls</b>, <a href="#HARLEQUIN_BALLS_522">522</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Slices for soups, <a href="#HARLEQUIN_SLICES_94">94</a>.</li> + <li><b>Hartford election cake</b>, <a href="#HARTFORD_ELECTION_CAKE_244">244</a>.</li> + <li><b>Hash, corned beef</b>, <a href="#CORNED_BEEF_HASH_158">158</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Brown, <a href="#BROWN_HASH_159">159</a>.</li> + <li><b>Heart, calf’s</b>, <a href="#CALFS_HEART_174">174</a>.</li> + <li><b>Hoe cake</b>, <a href="#HOE-CAKE_No_1_246">246</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><a name="corr59" id="corr59"></a>No. 2, <a href="#HOE-CAKE_No_2_247">247</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Colonial, <a href="#COLONIAL_HOE-CAKES_237">237</a>.</li> + <li><b>Hollandaise sauce</b>, <a href="#HOLLANDAISE_281">281</a>.</li> + <li><b>Home dinner</b>, <a href="#THE_HOME_DINNER_27">27</a>.</li> + <li><b>Homily on cooking</b>, <a href="#A_HOMILY_ON_COOKING_35">35</a>.</li> + <li><b>Hominy cake</b>, <a href="#HOMINY_CAKE_356">356</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fried, <a href="#FRIED_HOMINY_224">224</a>.</li> + <li><b>Horseradish sauce</b>, <a href="#HORSERADISH_SAUCE_284">284</a>.</li> + <li><b>Hot slaw</b>, <a href="#HOT_SLAW_214">214</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="indexletter">I</p> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li><b>Ices</b>, <a href="#WATER-ICES_508">508</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Lemon, <a href="#LEMON_ICE_243">243</a>, <a href="#LEMON-ICE_508">508</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Orange, <a href="#ORANGE-ICE_508">508</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Strawberry, <a href="#STRAWBERRY-ICE_508">508</a>.</li> + <li><b>Ice-creams</b>, <a href="#ICE-CREAMS_488">488</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">American, <a href="#NO_2_AMERICAN_ICE-CREAM_495">495</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Angel, <a href="#WHITE_OR_ANGEL_ICE-CREAM_497">497</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Caramel, <a href="#CARAMEL_ICE-CREAM_No_1_496">496</a>, <a href="#CARAMEL_ICE-CREAM_No_2_497">497</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Coffee, <a href="#COFFEE_ICE-CREAM_No_1_497">497</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chocolate, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_ICE-CREAM_496">496</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Classification of, <a href="#CLASSIFICATION_OF_ICE-CREAMS_488">488</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fancy molding of, <a href="#Fancy_Molding_491">491</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Freezing, <a href="#Freezing_490">490</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">French, <a href="#NO_3_FRENCH_ICE-CREAM_495">495</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fruit, <a href="#FRUIT_ICE-CREAMS_501">501</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">General rules for making, <a href="#GENERAL_RULES_489">489</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Imperatrice, <a href="#IMPERATRICE_505">505</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Individual, <a href="#Individual_creams_492">492</a>, <a href="#Individual_Creams_493">493</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Molding, <a href="#Molding_491">491</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Neapolitan, <a href="#NEAPOLITAN_ICE-CREAM_498">498</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Nesselrode, <a href="#NESSELRODE_PUDDING_499">499</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Nut, <a href="#NUT_ICE-CREAMS_502">502</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Ornamental, <a href="#Ornamental_Creams_493">493</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Packing, <a href="#Packing_490">490</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Philadelphia, <a href="#NO_1_PHILADELPHIA_ICE-CREAM_494">494</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pistachio, <a href="#PISTACHIO_ICE-CREAM_498">498</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Plum pudding glacé, <a name="corr60" id="corr60"></a><a href="#PLUM_PUDDING_GLACE_500">500</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Rice, <a href="#RICE_ICE-CREAM_498">498</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Tutti frutti, <a href="#TUTTI-FRUTTI_501">501</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Vanilla, <a href="#VANILLA_ICE-CREAMS_494">494</a>.</li> + <li><b>Iced tea</b>, <a href="#Iced_tea_550">550</a>.</li> + <li><b>Icing, boiled</b>, <a href="#BOILED_ICING_No_1_484">484</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chocolate, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_ICING_No_1_484">484</a>, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_ICING_No_2_485">485</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Coffee for éclairs, <a href="#COFFEE_ICING_FOR_ECLAIRS_485">485</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fondant, <a href="#FONDANT_ICING_485">485</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Royal, <a href="#ROYAL_ICING_483">483</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> with confectioners’ sugar, <a href="#ROYAL_ICING_WITH_CONFECTIONERS_SUGAR_484">484</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">For small cakes, <a href="#ICING_FOR_SMALL_CAKES_485">485</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">And decorating cakes, <a href="#ICING_AND_DECORATING_CAKES_483">483</a>.</li> + <li><b>Indian bread</b>, <a href="#THIN_INDIAN_BREAD_236">236</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pudding, <a href="#BOILED_INDIAN_PUDDING_240">240</a>, <a href="#ORANGE_INDIAN_PUDDING_241">241</a>, <a href="#BAKED_INDIAN_PUDDING_443">443</a>.</li> + <li><b>Individual salads</b>, <a href="#INDIVIDUAL_RUSSIAN_SALADS_383">383</a>.</li> + <li><b>Inside flank of beef</b>, <a href="#INSIDE_FLANK_153">153</a>.</li> + <li><b>Irish stew</b>, <a href="#IRISH_STEW_165">165</a>.</li> + <li><b>Italian cream</b>, <a href="#ITALIAN_CREAM_401">401</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Jelly, <a href="#ITALIAN_JELLY_418">418</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Meringue, <a href="#ITALIAN_MERINGUE_498">498</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="indexletter">J</p> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li><b>Jams</b>, <a href="#JAMS_OR_MARMALADES_541">541</a>.</li> + <li><b>Jam omelet</b>, <a href="#JAM_OMELET_425">425</a>.</li> + <li><b>Jellied chicken</b>, <a href="#JELLIED_BONED_CHICKEN_182">182</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fruit, <a href="#JELLIED_FRUIT_534">534</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fruits (Pain aux fruits), <a href="#PAINS_AUX_FRUITS_419">419</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Tongue, <a href="#JELLIED_TONGUE_175">175</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Veal, <a href="#JELLIED_VEAL_171">171</a>.</li> + <li><b>Jellies</b>, <a href="#SWEET_JELLIES_412">412</a>, <a href="#JELLIES_543">543</a>.</li> + <li><b>Jelly rolls</b>, <a href="#JELLY_ROLLS_468">468</a>.</li> + <li><b>Jelly, to clarify</b>, <a href="#To_clear_jelly_413">413</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Apple, <a href="#APPLE_JELLY_544">544</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Aspic, <a href="#ASPIC_321">321</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Berry design for mold, <a href="#BERRY_DESIGN_326">326</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_570" id="Page_570">[570]</a></span>Coffee, <a href="#COFFEE_JELLY_416">416</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cold, sauce, <a href="#COLD_JELLY_SAUCE_449">449</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Crab-apple, <a href="#CRAB-APPLE_JELLY_544">544</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cranberry, <a href="#CRANBERRY_JELLY_244">244</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Champagne, <a href="#CHAMPAGNE_JELLY_416">416</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad2">“</span> with flowers, <a href="#CHAMPAGNE_JELLY_WITH_FLOWERS_416">416</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Currant, <a href="#CURRANT_OR_ANY_BERRIES_543">543</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Daisy design for mold, <a href="#DAISY_DESIGN_326">326</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Dantzic, <a href="#DANTZIC_JELLY_418">418</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Decorations for meat, <a href="#DECORATIONS_FOR_MEAT_JELLY_326">326</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Dissolving, <a href="#Dissolving_412">412</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Italian, <a href="#ITALIAN_JELLY_418">418</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Lemon, <a href="#LEMON_JELLY_415">415</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Macédoine, <a href="#JELLIES_WITH_FRUITS_417">417</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Molding fancy, <a href="#TO_ORNAMENT_MOLDS_324">324</a>, <a href="#Molding_for_fancy_jellies_413">413</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Orange, <a href="#ORANGE_JELLY_415">415</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Points to observe in making, <a href="#Points_to_observe_412">412</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Plum pudding, <a href="#PLUM_PUDDING_JELLY_399">399</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Proportions for, <a href="#Proportions_413">413</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Prune, <a href="#PRUNE_JELLY_243">243</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Quince, <a href="#QUINCE_JELLY_544">544</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Ribbon, <a href="#RIBBON_JELLY_418">418</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Rolls, <a href="#JELLY_ROLLS_468">468</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Russian, <a href="#RUSSIAN_JELLIES_417">417</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sauce, <a href="#COLD_JELLY_SAUCE_449">449</a>, <a href="#JELLY_SAUCE_287">287</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Serving, <a href="#Serving_414">414</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Wine, <a href="#WINE_JELLY_415">415</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">With fruits (macédoine), <a href="#JELLIES_WITH_FRUITS_417">417</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">What to do with left over, <a href="#WHAT_TO_DO_WITH_JELLY_LEFT_OVER_418">418</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Whipped, <a href="#WHIPPED_JELLY_417">417</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">White or blanc-mange, <a href="#BLANC-MANGE_399">399</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Unmolding, <a href="#TO_UNMOLD_JELLY_324">324</a>.</li> + <li><b>Johnny cake</b>, <a href="#RHODE_ISLAND_JOHNNY-CAKE_237">237</a>.</li> + <li><b>Julienne soup</b>, <a href="#Julienne_89">89</a>.</li> + <li><b>Jumbles</b>, <a href="#JUMBLES_480">480</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="indexletter">K</p> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li><b>Kidneys, stewed</b>, <a href="#STEWED_KIDNEYS_173">173</a>.</li> + <li><b>Kisses</b>, <a href="#MERINGUES_AND_KISSES_475">475</a>.</li> + <li><b>Kneading bread</b>, <a href="#Kneading_and_molding_342">342</a>.</li> + <li><b>Koumiss</b>, <a href="#KOUMISS_558">558</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="indexletter">L</p> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li><b>Lady fingers</b>, <a href="#LADY-FINGERS_476">476</a>.</li> + <li><b>Lalla Rookh</b>, <a href="#LALLA_ROOKH_509">509</a>.</li> + <li><b>Lamb, spring</b>, <a href="#SPRING_LAMB_167">167</a>.</li> + <li><b>Larding</b>, <a href="#LARDING_76">76</a>.</li> + <li><b>Layer cakes</b>, <a href="#LAYER_CAKES_468">468</a>.</li> + <li><b>Lemonade</b>, <a href="#LEMONADE_554">554</a>.</li> + <li><b>Lemon ice</b>, <a href="#LEMON_ICE_243">243</a>, <a href="#LEMON-ICE_508">508</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Jelly, <a href="#LEMON_JELLY_415">415</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sugar, <a href="#Lemon_sugar_391">391</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Syrup, <a href="#Orange_and_lemon_syrups_391">391</a>.</li> + <li><b>Lettuce salad</b>, <a href="#LETTUCE_SALAD_376">376</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Stewed, <a href="#LETTUCE_STEWED_219">219</a>.</li> + <li><b>Lima beans</b>, <a href="#LIMA_BEANS_210">210</a>.</li> + <li><b>Little pound cakes</b>, <a href="#LITTLE_POUND-CAKES_478">478</a>.</li> + <li><b>Liver and bacon</b>, <a href="#LIVER_AND_BACON_172">172</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Braised, <a href="#BRAISED_LIVER_172">172</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Broiled, <a href="#BROILED_LIVER_172">172</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Loaf or false pâté de foie gras, <a href="#LIVER_LOAF_308">308</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sauté, <a href="#LIVER_SAUTE_255">255</a>.</li> + <li><b>Livers, chicken</b>, <a href="#CHICKEN_LIVERS_309">309</a>, <a href="#CHICKEN_LIVERS_WITH_MADEIRA_333">333</a>.</li> + <li><b>Loaf of chicken</b>, <a href="#CHICKEN_LOAF_191">191</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Liver, <a href="#LIVER_LOAF_308">308</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Veal, <a href="#VEAL_LOAF_171">171</a>.</li> + <li><b>Lobster</b>, <a href="#LOBSTERS_136">136</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To bake, <a href="#TO_BAKE_A_LOBSTER_137">137</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To boil, <a href="#TO_BOIL_A_LOBSTER_136">136</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To broil, <a href="#TO_BROIL_A_LOBSTER_137">137</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To kill, <a href="#to_kill_lobster_136">136</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To open, <a href="#TO_OPEN_A_LOBSTER_137">137</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">à la Newburg, <a href="#LOBSTER_A_LA_NEWBURG_139">139</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Bisque of, <a href="#BISQUE_OF_LOBSTER_109">109</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Butter, <a href="#LOBSTER_BUTTER_109">109</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chops, <a href="#LOBSTER_CHOPS_138">138</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Farci, <a href="#LOBSTER_FARCI_138">138</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Filling for patties, <a href="#LOBSTER_FILLING_FOR_PATTIES_140">140</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Freshness of, <a href="#freshness_136">136</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Salad, <a href="#LOBSTER_SALAD_382">382</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Salpicon of, <a href="#SALPICON_OF_LOBSTER_140">140</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sauce, <a href="#LOBSTER_SAUCE_279">279</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Season of, <a href="#season_136">136</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Stew, <a href="#LOBSTER_STEW_140">140</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Stewed, <a href="#STEWED_LOBSTER_232">232</a>.</li> + <li><b>Luncheon</b>, <a href="#LUNCHEON_31">31</a>.</li> + <li><b>Luncheon and tea-rolls</b>, <a href="#LUNCHEON_AND_TEA_ROLLS_351">351</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="indexletter">M</p> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li><b>Macaroni</b>, <a href="#MACARONI_224">224</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">à la Albi, <a href="#MACARONI_A_LALBI_236">236</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">au gratin, <a href="#MACARONI_AU_GRATIN_225">225</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Baked with cheese, <a href="#BAKED_MACARONI_WITH_CHEESE_225">225</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Mrs. Maspero, <a href="#RECEIPT_FOR_MACARONI_226">226</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">With tomato or other sauce, <a href="#MACARONI_WITH_TOMATO_225">225</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">With minced meat, <a href="#MACARONI_WITH_MINCED_MEAT_226">226</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Timbale, <a href="#MACARONI_TIMBALE_302">302</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1-5">“</span> Honeycomb, <a href="#HONEYCOMB_TIMBALE_302">302</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sauce for, <a href="#SAUCE_FOR_MACARONI_226">226</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> <span class="pad1left">No. 2,</span> <a href="#SAUCE_FOR_MACARONI_No_2_226">226</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> <span class="pad1left">No. 3,</span> <a name="corr61" id="corr61"></a><a href="#SAUCE_FOR_MACARONI_No_3_227">227</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Soup, <a href="#Macaroni_soup_89">89</a>.</li> + <li><b>Macaroons</b>, <a href="#MACAROONS_477">477</a>.</li> + <li><b>Macédoine jelly</b>, <a href="#JELLIES_WITH_FRUITS_417">417</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Salad, <a href="#MACEDOINE_SALAD_378">378</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Of vegetables, <a href="#MACEDOINE_OF_VEGETABLES_216">216</a>.</li> + <li><b>Mackerel, salt</b>, <a href="#SALT_MACKEREL_127">127</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Creamed, <a href="#CREAMED_MACKEREL_127">127</a>.</li> + <li><b>Madeleines</b>, No. 1, <a href="#MADELEINES_No_1_477">477</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">No. 2, <a href="#MADELEINES_No_2_478">478</a>.</li> + <li><b>Mâitre d’hôtel sauce</b>, <a href="#MAITRE_DHOTEL_SAUCE_286">286</a>.</li> + <li><b>Marble cake</b>, <a href="#MARBLE_CAKE_470">470</a>.</li> + <li><b>Marinate, to</b>, <a href="#TO_MARINATE_79">79</a>, <a href="#Marinating_374">374</a>.</li> + <li><b>Marmalade</b>, <a href="#JAMS_OR_MARMALADES_541">541</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Apple, <a href="#APPLE_MARMALADE_543">543</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Orange, <a href="#ORANGE_MARMALADE_542">542</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Quince, <a href="#QUINCE_MARMALADE_542">542</a>.</li> + <li><b>Marrow balls</b>, <a href="#MARROW_BALLS_94">94</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Bones, <a href="#MARROW-BONES_159">159</a>.</li> + <li><b>Marrons, pain de</b>, <a href="#PAIN_DE_MARRONS_420">420</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Glacé, <a href="#MARRONS_GLACE_521">521</a>.</li> + <li><b>Marshmallows</b>, <a href="#MARSHMALLOWS_521">521</a>.</li> + <li><b>Mayonnaise</b>, <a href="#MAYONNAISE_288">288</a>, <a href="#MAYONNAISE_375">375</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Arrowroot, <a href="#MAYONNAISE_WITH_ARROWROOT_290">290</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Green, <a href="#GREEN_MAYONNAISE_289">289</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Jelly, <a href="#JELLY_MAYONNAISE_290">290</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Red, <a href="#RED_MAYONNAISE_290">290</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">White, <a href="#WHITE_MAYONNAISE_289">289</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Of chicken, <a href="#CHICKEN_MAYONNAISE_192">192</a>.</li> + <li><b>Measuring</b>, <a href="#MEASURING_77">77</a>.</li> + <li><b>Meats</b>, <a href="#Tough_Pieces_52">52</a>, <a href="#Chapter_IV">145</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cooking, <a href="#Slow_cooking_145">145</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cleaning, <a href="#Cleaning_145">145</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">General remarks about, <a href="#Slow_cooking_145">145</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Juices of, <a href="#Juices_145">145</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Piercing, <a href="#piercing_146">146</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Scalloped, <a href="#SCALLOPED_MEAT_151">151</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sandwiches, <a href="#How_to_prepare_the_meat_364">364</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Seasoning, <a href="#Seasoning_145">145</a>.</li> + <li><b>Menus, luncheon</b>, <a href="#LUNCHEON_31">31</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Inexpensive dinners, <a href="#menu_economical_living_47">47</a>, <a name="corr62" id="corr62"></a><a href="#VERY_INEXPENSIVE_DISHES_249">249</a>.</li> + <li><b>Meringues</b>, <a href="#MERINGUES_AND_KISSES_475">475</a>.</li> + <li><b>Meringue sauce</b>, <a href="#MERINGUE_SAUCE_448">448</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To sweeten, <a href="#Sweetening_389">389</a>.</li> + <li><b>Mignon fillets</b>, <a href="#MIGNON_FILLETS_157">157</a>.</li> + <li><b>Milk</b>, <a href="#Sour_Milk_54">54</a>, <a href="#Milk_58">58</a>, <a name="corr63" id="corr63"></a><a href="#Milk_389">389</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Bread, <a href="#MILK_BREAD_345">345</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">When scalded, <a href="#Milk_389">389</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Punch, <a href="#MILK_PUNCH_557">557</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Toast, <a href="#MILK_TOAST_348">348</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Shake, <a href="#MILK_SHAKE_557">557</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sterilized, <a href="#STERILIZED_MILK_257">257</a>.</li> + <li><b>Millefeuilles</b>, <a href="#MILLEFEUILLES_461">461</a>.</li> + <li><b>Mince pie</b>, <a href="#MINCE_PIE_MIXTURE_454">454</a>.</li> + <li><b>Mint sauce</b>, <a href="#MINT_SAUCE_287">287</a>.</li> + <li><b>Miscellaneous receipts</b>, <a href="#PART_III">257</a>.</li> + <li><b>Mixing liquids and solids</b>, <a href="#Mixing_59">59</a>.</li> + <li><b>Mock oysters</b>, <a href="#CORN_MOCK_OYSTERS_220">220</a>.</li> + <li><b>Mock turtle soup</b>, <a href="#CALFS-HEAD_OR_MOCK-TURTLE_SOUP_103">103</a>.</li> + <li><b>Molasses cake</b>, <a href="#MOLASSES_CAKE_483">483</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Candy, <a href="#MOLASSES_CANDY_527">527</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pie, <a href="#MOLASSES_PIE_242">242</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Wafers, <a href="#MOLASSES_WAFERS_482">482</a>.</li> + <li><b>Molding</b>, <a href="#Molding_389">389</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Articles to fry, <a href="#Molding_76">76</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fancy, <a href="#Molding_for_fancy_jellies_413">413</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Jellies, <a href="#TO_MOLD_JELLY_323">323</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Ice-creams, <a href="#Molding_491">491</a>.</li> + <li><b>Molds</b>, <a href="#Molds_60">60</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Double, <a href="#DOUBLE_MOLDS_325">325</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To ornament, <a href="#TO_ORNAMENT_MOLDS_324">324</a>.</li> + <li><b>Moselle cup</b>, <a href="#MOSELLE_CUP_555">555</a>.</li> + <li><b>Mousses</b>, <a href="#MOUSSES_506">506</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fruit, <a href="#FRUIT_MOUSSES_507">507</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Golden, <a href="#GOLDEN_MOUSSE_507">507</a>.</li> + <li><b>Muffins</b>, <a href="#MUFFINS_No_1_355">355</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">English, <a href="#ENGLISH_MUFFINS_355">355</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Raised, <a href="#RAISED_MUFFINS_355">355</a>.</li> + <li><b>Mushrooms, remarks about</b>, <a href="#Mushrooms_45">45</a>, <a href="#MUSHROOMS_314">314</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cooking, <a href="#COOKING_MUSHROOMS_316">316</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">à la poulette, <a href="#MUSHROOMS_A_LA_POULETTE_320">320</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Agaricus campestris, <a href="#THE_AGARICUS_CAMPESTRIS_317">317</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1-5">“</span> procerus, <a href="#AGARICUS_PROCERUS_318">318</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1-5">“</span> russula, <a href="#AGARICUS_RUSSULA_318">318</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Boleti, <a href="#THE_BOLETI_318">318</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Coprinus comatus, <a href="#COPRINUS_COMATUS_318">318</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1-5">“</span> atramentarius, 318.</li> + <li class="subhead">Clavaria, <a href="#CLAVARIA_319">319</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Hydnum caput Medusæ, <a href="#HYDNUM_CAPUT_MEDUSAE_319">319</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Puff balls, <a href="#PUFF_BALLS_319">319</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Marasmius oreades, <a href="#THE_FAIRY_RING_CHAMPIGNON_317">317</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Scalloped, <a href="#SCALLOPED_MUSHROOMS_320">320</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sauce, <a href="#MUSHROOM_SAUCE_286">286</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To dry, <a href="#TO_DRY_MUSHROOMS_320">320</a>.</li> + <li><b>Mustard sauce</b>, <a name="corr64" id="corr64"></a><a href="#MUSTARD_SAUCE_284">284</a>.</li> + <li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_571" id="Page_571">[571]</a></span><b>Mutton</b>, remarks about, <a href="#MUTTON_160">160</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Boiled, <a href="#BOILED_MUTTON_163">163</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Breast of, <a href="#Breast_of_mutton_255">255</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Broth, <a href="#MUTTON_BROTH_95">95</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chops, <a href="#MUTTON_CHOPS_165">165</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> in paper cases, <a href="#CHOPS_IN_PAPER_CASES_166">166</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">à la Maintenon, <a href="#CHOPS_A_LA_MAINTENON_167">167</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Leg of, <a href="#ROAST_LEG_OF_MUTTON_162">162</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Loin of, <a href="#ROAST_LOIN_OF_MUTTON_162">162</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Ragoût of, <a href="#RAGOUT_OF_MUTTON_OR_LAMB_164">164</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1-5">“</span> cold boiled, <a href="#RAGOUT_OF_COLD_BOILED_MUTTON_165">165</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><a name="corr65" id="corr65"></a>Réchauffé of, <a href="#RECHAUFFE_OF_COLD_MUTTON_234">234</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Rolled loin of, <a href="#ROLLED_LOIN_162">162</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Saddle of, <a href="#ROAST_SADDLE_OF_MUTTON_162">162</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Shoulder of, stuffed, <a href="#SHOULDER_OF_MUTTON_STUFFED_163">163</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="indexletter">N</p> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li><b>Nasturtium pickle</b>, <a href="#NASTURTIUM_PICKLE_547">547</a>.</li> + <li><b>Neapolitan ice-cream</b>, <a href="#NEAPOLITAN_ICE-CREAM_498">498</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Squares, <a href="#NEAPOLITAN_SQUARES_523">523</a>.</li> + <li><b>Nesselrode pudding</b>, <a href="#NESSELRODE_PUDDING_499">499</a>.</li> + <li><b>Noodles</b>, <a href="#NOODLES_93">93</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Balls, <a href="#NOODLE_BALLS_93">93</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To serve as vegetables, <a href="#NOODLES_SERVED_AS_A_VEGETABLE_93">93</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Soup, <a href="#Noodle_soup_89">89</a>.</li> + <li><b>Nougat</b>, <a href="#NOUGAT_No_1_518">518</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">For bonbons, <a href="#NOUGAT_No_1_518">518</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad0-5">“</span> molding, <a href="#NOUGAT_No_2_519">519</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Soft white, <a href="#NOUGAT_No_3_519">519</a>.</li> + <li><b>Nuts</b>, <a href="#Nuts_532">532</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Carameled, <a href="#CARAMELED_NUTS_526">526</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Creams, <a href="#NUT_CREAMS_523">523</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Ice-creams, <a href="#NUT_ICE-CREAMS_502">502</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Salted, <a href="#Salted_almonds_533">533</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="indexletter">O</p> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li><b>Oat cake</b>, <a href="#OAT_CAKE_356">356</a>.</li> + <li><b>Oatmeal, creamed</b>, <a href="#CREAM_OATMEAL_238">238</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Porridge, <a href="#OATMEAL_PORRIDGE_227">227</a>.</li> + <li><b>Olives, to stone</b>, <a href="#HOW_TO_STONE_OLIVES_78">78</a>.</li> + <li><b>Olive sauce</b>, <a href="#OLIVE_SAUCE_285">285</a>.</li> + <li><b>Omelets</b>, <a href="#PLAIN_FRENCH_OMELET_264">264</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">aux fins herbes, <a href="#VARIATIONS_OF_THE_OMELET_No_4_266">266</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Beaten, <a href="#BEATEN_OMELET_266">266</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Green, <a href="#VARIATIONS_OF_THE_OMELET_No_3_266">266</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Ham, <a href="#VARIATIONS_OF_THE_OMELET_No_6_266">266</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Jam, <a href="#JAM_OMELET_425">425</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Orange, <a href="#ORANGE_OMELET_425">425</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Plain French, <a href="#PLAIN_FRENCH_OMELET_264">264</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Potato, <a href="#POTATO_OMELET_203">203</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">With peas and tomatoes, <a href="#VARIATIONS_OF_THE_OMELET_No_5_266">266</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Rum, <a href="#RUM_OMELET_426">426</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Variations of, <a href="#VARIATIONS_OF_THE_OMELET_265">265</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Soufflé, <a href="#OMELET_SOUFFLE_422">422</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Spanish, <a href="#SPANISH_OMELET_274">274</a>.</li> + <li><b>Onions</b>, <a href="#ONIONS_219">219</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Juice, <a href="#Onion_Juice_59">59</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> how to extract, <a href="#HOW_TO_EXTRACT_ONION_JUICE_78">78</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Soup, <a href="#ONION_SOUP_105">105</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Spanish, stuffed, <a href="#STUFFED_SPANISH_ONIONS_219">219</a>.</li> + <li><b>Orangeade</b>, <a href="#ORANGEADE_554">554</a>.</li> + <li><b>Oranges</b>, <a href="#Oranges_530">530</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><a name="corr66" id="corr66"></a>Glacé, <a href="#GLACE_ORANGES_AND_GRAPES_516">516</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><a name="corr67" id="corr67"></a>Cake, <a href="#ORANGE_CAKE_469">469</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Compote of, <a href="#COMPOTE_OF_ORANGES_536">536</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fritters, <a href="#ORANGE_FRITTERS_427">427</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Ice, <a href="#ORANGE-ICE_508">508</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Indian pudding, <a href="#ORANGE_INDIAN_PUDDING_241">241</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Jelly, <a href="#ORANGE_JELLY_415">415</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Juice, <a href="#FRUIT_JUICES_534">534</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Marmalade, <a href="#JAMS_OR_MARMALADES_541">541</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Omelet, <a href="#ORANGE_OMELET_425">425</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Or lemon peel candied, <a href="#Preserved_orange_and_lemon_peel_391">391</a>, <a href="#CANDIED_ORANGE_OR_LEMON_PEEL_527">527</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pie, <a href="#ORANGE_PIE_453">453</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Salad, <a href="#ORANGE_SALAD_382">382</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sugar, <a href="#Orange_sugar_391">391</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Syrup, <a href="#Orange_and_lemon_syrups_391">391</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">pain d', <a href="#PAIN_DORANGES_420">420</a>.</li> + <li><b>Oysters</b>, <a href="#OYSTERS_131">131</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">à la poulette, <a href="#OYSTERS_A_LA_POULETTE_133">133</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad0-5">“</span> Villeroi, <a href="#OYSTERS_A_LA_VILLEROI_132">132</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Broiled, <a href="#BROILED_OYSTERS_132">132</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Browned, <a href="#BROWNED_OYSTERS_231">231</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cooking, <a href="#Cooking_131">131</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1-5">“</span> in chafing-dish, 233.</li> + <li class="subhead">Crabs, <a href="#OYSTER-CRABS_143">143</a>, <a href="#OYSTER-CRABS_310">310</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> entrée of, <a href="#ENTREE_OF_OYSTER-CRABS_310">310</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cases, <a href="#OYSTER_CASES_308">308</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Creamed, <a href="#CREAMED_OYSTERS_331">331</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cream of, <a href="#CREAM_OF_OYSTERS_108">108</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Filling for patties, <a href="#OYSTER_FILLING_FOR_PATTIES_134">134</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">And fish, <a href="#FISH_AND_OYSTERS_231">231</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fried, <a href="#FRIED_OYSTERS_132">132</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fricassee, <a href="#FRICASSEED_OYSTERS_232">232</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Mock, <a href="#CORN_MOCK_OYSTERS_220">220</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Panned, <a href="#PANNED_OYSTERS_133">133</a>, <a href="#PANNED_OYSTERS_331">331</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pickled, <a href="#PICKLED_OYSTERS_232">232</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Raw, <a href="#Raw_oysters_131">131</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Roasted, <a href="#ROASTED_OYSTERS_133">133</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Salad, <a href="#OYSTER_SALAD_383">383</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sauce, <a href="#OYSTER_SAUCE_279">279</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Soup, <a href="#OYSTER_SOUP_104">104</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Scalloped, <a href="#SCALLOPED_OYSTERS_134">134</a>, <a href="#SCALLOPED_OYSTERS_231">231</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Stew, <a href="#OYSTER_STEW_331">331</a>.</li> + <li><a name="corr68" id="corr68"></a><b>Ox-tail soup</b>, <a href="#OX-TAIL_SOUP_99">99</a>.</li> + <li><b>Ovens</b>, <a href="#Ovens_63">63</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="indexletter">P</p> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li><b>Panada, bread</b>, <a href="#BREAD_PANADA_298">298</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Flour, <a href="#FLOUR_PANADA_298">298</a>.</li> + <li><b>Pancakes</b>, remarks about, <a href="#PANCAKES_361">361</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Adirondack, <a href="#ADIRONDACK_PANCAKES_363">363</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Bread, <a href="#BREAD_PANCAKES_362">362</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Buckwheat, <a href="#BUCKWHEAT_CAKES_363">363</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cornmeal, <a href="#CORNMEAL_PANCAKES_363">363</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Plain, <a href="#PLAIN_PANCAKES_362">362</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Rice, <a href="#RICE_PANCAKES_362">362</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sweet, <a href="#SWEET_PANCAKES_426">426</a>.</li> + <li><b>Pans, bread</b>, <a href="#Pans_344">344</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cake, <a href="#Page_463">463</a>, <a href="#Page_464">464</a>.</li> + <li><b>Panned oysters</b>, <a href="#PANNED_OYSTERS_133">133</a>, <a href="#PANNED_OYSTERS_331">331</a>.</li> + <li><b>Pain aux fruits</b>, <a href="#PAINS_AUX_FRUITS_419">419</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">de fraises, <a href="#PAIN_DE_FRAISES_419">419</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">d’oranges, <a href="#PAIN_DORANGES_420">420</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">de pêches, <a href="#PAIN_DE_PECHES_420">420</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">de marrons, <a href="#PAIN_DE_MARRONS_420">420</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">de riz aux fruits, <a href="#PAIN_DE_RIZ_419">419</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> à la princesse, <a href="#PAIN_DE_RIZ_A_LA_PRINCESSE_419">419</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">de volaille, <a href="#PAIN_DE_VOLAILLE_300">300</a>.</li> + <li><b>Parched rice</b>, <a href="#PARCHED_RICE_223">223</a>.</li> + <li><b>Parfaits</b>, <a href="#Parfaits_489">489</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">General rules for making, <a href="#PARFAITS_502">502</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Angel, <a href="#ANGEL_PARFAIT_505">505</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">au café and praliné, <a href="#PARFAIT_AU_CAFE_504">504</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Of chestnuts, <a href="#PARFAITS_OF_CHESTNUTS_506">506</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Maple, <a href="#MAPLE_PARFAIT_504">504</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Vanilla, <a href="#VANILLA_PARFAIT_503">503</a>.</li> + <li><b>Parker House rolls</b>, <a href="#PARKER_HOUSE_ROLLS_351">351</a>.</li> + <li><b>Parsnips</b>, <a href="#PARSNIPS_218">218</a>.</li> + <li><b>Partridges, roasted, broiled</b>, <a href="#ROASTED_AND_BROILED_PARTRIDGE_199">199</a>.</li> + <li><b>Pastry</b>, <a href="#PLAIN_PASTRY_FOR_PIES_451">451</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Plain, <a href="#EASY_PIE-CRUST_239">239</a>, <a href="#PLAIN_PASTRY_FOR_PIES_451">451</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">For tarts, <a href="#PASTRY_FOR_TARTS_OR_OPEN_PIES_452">452</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To glaze, <a href="#TO_GLAZE_PASTRY_461">461</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Timbale, <a href="#PASTRY_TIMBALE_303">303</a>.</li> + <li><b>Pâté de foie gras en bellevue</b>, <a href="#ASPIC_OF_PATE_384">384</a>.</li> + <li><b>Pâté shells</b>, <a href="#PATE_SHELLS_460">460</a>.</li> + <li><b>Patties</b>, <a href="#PATTIES_305">305</a>.</li> + <li><b>Pea soup</b>, <a href="#SPLIT-PEA_OR_BEAN_SOUP_102">102</a>, <a href="#SPLIT_PEA_SOUP_229">229</a>.</li> + <li><b>Peaches</b>, <a href="#Peaches_530">530</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Compote of, <a href="#COMPOTE_OF_PEACHES_536">536</a>.</li> + <li><b>Peach-leaf flavor</b>, <a href="#peach_leaf_391">391</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fritters, <a href="#PEACH_OR_APRICOT_FRITTERS_427">427</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Frozen, <a href="#FRUIT_ICE-CREAMS_501">501</a>, <a href="#Frozen_fruits_532">532</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pickled, sweet, <a href="#SWEET_PICKLED_PEACHES_545">545</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Preserved, <a href="#PRESERVED_PEACHES_537">537</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pudding, <a href="#PEACH_PUDDING_241">241</a>.</li> + <li><b>Peanut candy</b>, <a href="#PEANUT_CANDY_527">527</a>.</li> + <li><b>Peanuts</b>, <a href="#Nuts_532">532</a>.</li> + <li><b>Pears, stewed</b>, <a href="#STEWED_PEARS_244">244</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Preserved, <a href="#PRESERVED_PEARS_538">538</a>.</li> + <li><b>Peppermint creams</b>, <a href="#PEPPERMINT_CREAMS_525">525</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Drops, <a href="#PEPPERMINT_DROPS_526">526</a>.</li> + <li><b>Peppers, stuffed</b>, <a href="#STUFFED_PEPPERS_215">215</a>.</li> + <li><b>Philadelphia ice-cream</b>, <a href="#NO_1_PHILADELPHIA_ICE-CREAM_494">494</a>.</li> + <li><b>Pickled oysters</b>, <a href="#PICKLED_OYSTERS_232">232</a>.</li> + <li><b>Pickles</b>, <a href="#Page_545">545</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chow-chow, <a href="#CHOW-CHOW_546">546</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cucumber or gherkins, <a href="#CUCUMBER_OR_GHERKIN_PICKLES_545">545</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Green tomato, <a href="#GREEN_TOMATO_PICKLE_546">546</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Nasturtiums, <a href="#NASTURTIUM_PICKLE_547">547</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Peaches, <a href="#SWEET_PICKLED_PEACHES_545">545</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Plums, <a href="#SWEET_PICKLED_PEACHES_545">545</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Walnuts, <a href="#PICKLED_WALNUTS_545">545</a>.</li> + <li><b>Pies</b>, <a href="#Chapter_XX">450</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Apple, <a href="#PLAIN_APPLE_PIE_454">454</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Beef, <a href="#BEEF_PIE_152">152</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Beefsteak, <a href="#BEEFSTEAK_PIE_235">235</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chicken, <a href="#ENGLISH_CHICKEN_PIE_192">192</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cocoanut, <a href="#COCOANUT_PIE_456">456</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cranberry, <a href="#CRANBERRY_PIE_456">456</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cream, <a href="#CREAM_PIE_455">455</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Mince mixture, <a href="#MINCE_PIE_MIXTURE_454">454</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Molasses, <a href="#MOLASSES_PIE_242">242</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Orange, <a href="#ORANGE_PIE_453">453</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Plain apple, <a href="#PLAIN_APPLE_PIE_454">454</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> pastry for, <a href="#EASY_PIE-CRUST_239">239</a>, <a href="#PLAIN_PASTRY_FOR_PIES_451">451</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pumpkin, <a href="#PUMPKIN_PIES_239">239</a>, <a href="#PUMPKIN_PIE_454">454</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Squash, <a href="#SQUASH_PIES_238">238</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Tart, <a href="#TART_PIES_452">452</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Washington, <a href="#WASHINGTON_PIE_457">457</a>.</li> + <li><b>Pigeons, potted</b>, <a href="#POTTED_PIGEONS_197">197</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Roasted, <a href="#ROAST_PIGEONS_197">197</a>.</li> + <li><b>Pineapple canapés</b>, <a href="#PINEAPPLE_CANAPES_336">336</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sauce, <a href="#PINEAPPLE_SAUCE_447">447</a>.</li> + <li><b>Pine cones</b>, <a href="#PINE_CONES_411">411</a>.</li> + <li><b>Piquante sauce</b>, <a href="#PIQUANTE_SAUCE_283">283</a>.</li> + <li><b>Pistachio cake</b>, <a href="#PISTACHIO_CAKE_469">469</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Flavor, <a href="#Pistachio_flavor_391">391</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Ice-cream, <a href="#PISTACHIO_ICE-CREAM_498">498</a>.</li> + <li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_572" id="Page_572">[572]</a></span><b>Plain pudding sauces</b>, <a href="#PLAIN_PUDDING_SAUCE_No_1_444">444</a>, <a href="#PLAIN_PUDDING_SAUCE_No_2_445">445</a>.</li> + <li><b>Plum-pudding</b>, <a href="#CHRISTMAS_PLUM_PUDDING_437">437</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Jelly, <a href="#PLUM_PUDDING_JELLY_399">399</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Glacé, <a name="corr70" id="corr70"></a><a href="#PLUM_PUDDING_GLACE_500">500</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sauce for, <a href="#SAUCE_FOR_PLUM_PUDDING_GLACE_501">501</a>.</li> + <li><b>Plum sauce for meats</b>, <a name="corr69" id="corr69"></a><a href="#PLUM_SAUCE_FOR_MEATS_544">544</a>.</li> + <li><b>Polenta</b>, <a href="#POLENTA_227">227</a>.</li> + <li><b>Pone</b>, <a href="#PONE_246">246</a>.</li> + <li><b>Pork</b>, <a href="#PORK_176">176</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">And beans, <a href="#DRIED_BEANS_217">217</a>, <a href="#PORK_AND_BEANS_234">234</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chops, <a href="#PORK_CHOPS_177">177</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Roast, <a href="#ROAST_PORK_176">176</a>.</li> + <li><b>Pot-pie</b>, <a href="#A_PLAIN_POT-PIE_169">169</a>.</li> + <li><b>Potatoes, baked</b>, <a href="#BROILED_POTATOES_204">204</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Baked with meat, <a href="#POTATOES_BAKED_WITH_MEAT_204">204</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Balls, <a href="#POTATO_BALLS_203">203</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad0-5">“</span> fried, <a href="#FRIED_POTATO_BALLS_205">205</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Boiled, <a href="#BOILED_POTATOES_201">201</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Bread, <a href="#POTATO_BREAD_345">345</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Broiled, <a href="#BROILED_POTATOES_204">204</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cakes, <a href="#POTATO_CAKES_201">201</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Casserole, <a href="#POTATO_CASSEROLE_327">327</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chowder, <a href="#POTATO_CHOWDER_110">110</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Creamed, <a href="#CREAMED_POTATOES_203">203</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Croquettes, <a href="#POTATO_CROQUETTES_202">202</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">And fish timbale, <a href="#POTATO_AND_FISH_TIMBALE_304">304</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fried, <a href="#FRIED_POTATOES_205">205</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Lyonnaise, <a href="#LYONNAISE_POTATOES_204">204</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Mashed, <a href="#MASHED_POTATOES_201">201</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Omelet, <a href="#POTATO_OMELET_203">203</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Puffed, <a href="#PUFFED_OR_SOUFFLE_POTATOES_206">206</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Rice, <a href="#POTATO_RICE_202">202</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Roses, <a href="#POTATO_ROSES_202">202</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Salad, <a href="#POTATO_SALAD_378">378</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Saratoga, <a href="#SARATOGA_POTATOES_205">205</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Soufflé, <a href="#POTATO_SOUFFLE_202">202</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Soup, <a href="#POTATO_SOUP_105">105</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Straws, <a href="#FRIED_POTATO_BALLS_205">205</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Stuffed, <a href="#STUFFED_POTATOES_204">204</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Supports for hot meats, <a href="#POTATO_SUPPORT_328">328</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sweet, <a href="#SWEET_POTATOES_206">206</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> baked, <a href="#BAKED_SWEET_POTATOES_206">206</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> browned, <a href="#BROWNED_SWEET_POTATOES_206">206</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> Croquettes, <a href="#SWEET_POTATO_CROQUETTES_207">207</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> Purée of, <a href="#SWEET_POTATO_PUREE_207">207</a>.</li> + <li><b>Poulette sauce</b>, <a href="#POULETTE_SAUCE_280">280</a>.</li> + <li><b>Poultry and game</b>, <a href="#CHICKENS_179">179</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To clean and draw, <a href="#TO_CLEAN_AND_DRAW_POULTRY_180">180</a>.</li> + <li><b>Pound cake</b>, <a href="#POUND-CAKE_471">471</a>.</li> + <li><b>Pound cakes, small</b>, <a name="corr71" id="corr71"></a><a href="#LITTLE_POUND-CAKES_478">478</a>.</li> + <li><b>Prairie chicken and grouse</b>, <a href="#PRAIRIE-CHICKEN_197">197</a>.</li> + <li><b>Praline powder</b>, <a href="#PRALINE_POWDER_505">505</a>.</li> + <li><b>Preserved citron</b>, <a href="#CITRON_PRESERVE_540">540</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Grapes, <a href="#GRAPE_PRESERVES_539">539</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Peaches, <a href="#PRESERVED_PEACHES_537">537</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1-5">“</span> brandied, <a href="#BRANDY_PEACHES_543">543</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pears, <a href="#PRESERVED_PEARS_538">538</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Plums, <a href="#PRESERVED_PLUMS_538">538</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Raspberries, <a href="#RASPBERRY_PRESERVE_540">540</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Strawberries, <a href="#PRESERVED_STRAWBERRIES_No_1_539">539</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad2">“</span> No. 2, <a href="#PRESERVED_STRAWBERRIES_No_2_540">540</a>.</li> + <li><b>Preserving</b>, <a href="#Page_537">537</a>.</li> + <li><b>Printanière soup</b>, <a href="#Printaniere_89">89</a>.</li> + <li><b>Prune jelly</b>, <a href="#PRUNE_JELLY_243">243</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Soufflé, <a href="#PRUNE_SOUFFLE_423">423</a>.</li> + <li><b>Pudding batter</b>, <a href="#BATTER_PUDDING_428">428</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Beefsteak, <a href="#BEEFSTEAK_PUDDING_251">251</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Bermuda, <a href="#BERMUDA_PUDDING_242">242</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Blueberry, <a href="#BLUEBERRY_PUDDING_241">241</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Bread, <a href="#BREAD_PUDDINGS_434">434</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> and butter, <a href="#BREAD_AND_BUTTER_PUDDING_434">434</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Brown Betty, <a href="#BROWN_BETTY_429">429</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cabinet, <a href="#CABINET_PUDDING_No_1_438">438</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1-5">“</span> No. 2, <a href="#CABINET_PUDDING_No_2_439">439</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1-5">“</span> No. 3 (Royal), <a href="#CABINET_PUDDING_No_3_439">439</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1-5">“</span> No. 4, <a href="#CABINET_PUDDING_No_4_440">440</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Canary, <a href="#CANARY_PUDDING_436">436</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chocolate, <a href="#NO_4_CHOCOLATE_PUDDING_398">398</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cherry bread, <a href="#CHERRY_BREAD_241">241</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cocoanut, <a href="#NO_3_COCOANUT_PUDDING_398">398</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cottage, <a href="#COTTAGE_PUDDING_435">435</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cornstarch, <a href="#CORN-STARCH_PUDDINGS_397">397</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Diplomatic, <a href="#DIPLOMATIC_PUDDING_403">403</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fig, <a href="#FIG_PUDDING_438">438</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fish, <a href="#FISH_PUDDING_123">123</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fruit, <a href="#FRUIT_PUDDING_443">443</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Indian, <a href="#BOILED_INDIAN_PUDDING_240">240</a>, <a href="#ORANGE_INDIAN_PUDDING_241">241</a>, <a href="#BAKED_INDIAN_PUDDING_443">443</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Peach, <a href="#PEACH_PUDDING_241">241</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Plum, <a href="#CHRISTMAS_PLUM_PUDDING_437">437</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> glacé, <a href="#PLUM_PUDDING_GLACE_500">500</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Rice, plain, <a href="#RICE_PUDDINGS_433">433</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> and marmalade, <a href="#RICE_AND_ORANGE-MARMALADE_PUDDING_242">242</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Roly-poly, <a href="#ROLY-POLY_PUDDING_443">443</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Snow apple, <a href="#SNOW_APPLE_PUDDING_429">429</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Suet, <a href="#SUET_PUDDING_436">436</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Tapioca, <a href="#TAPIOCA_PUDDING_433">433</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Yorkshire, <a href="#YORKSHIRE_PUDDING_147">147</a>.</li> + <li><b>Puffs or pop-overs</b>, <a href="#PUFFS_OR_POP-OVERS_354">354</a>.</li> + <li><a name="corr72" id="corr72"></a><b>Puff-paste</b>, <a href="#PUFF-PASTE_457">457</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Rules for, <a href="#GENERAL_RULES_457">457</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Receipt for, <a href="#RECEIPT_FOR_PUFF-PASTE_458">458</a>.</li> + <li><b>Pulled bread</b>, <a href="#PULLED_BREAD_349">349</a>.</li> + <li><b>Pumpkin pie</b>, <a href="#PUMPKIN_PIES_239">239</a>, <a href="#PUMPKIN_PIE_454">454</a>.</li> + <li><b>Punch, frozen, general rules, for</b>, <a href="#PUNCHES_AND_SHERBETS_508">508</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Coffee, <a href="#COFFEE_PUNCH_509">509</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Milk, <a href="#MILK_PUNCH_557">557</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Salpicon of fruit, <a href="#SALPICON_OF_FRUIT_PUNCH_533">533</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1-5">“</span> of California cherries, <a href="#PUNCH_OF_WHITE_CALIFORNIA_CANNED_CHERRIES_534">534</a>.</li> + <li><b>Purée of beans</b>, <a href="#PUREE_DRIED_BEANS_217">217</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chestnuts, <a href="#CHESTNUT_STUFFING_185">185</a>, <a href="#CHESTNUT_PUREE_215">215</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chicken, <a href="#CHICKEN_PUREE_310">310</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fruit sauce, <a href="#PUREE_OF_FRUIT_SAUCES_447">447</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="indexletter">Q</p> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li><b>Quails broiled</b>, <a name="corr73" id="corr73"></a><a href="#QUAILS_BROILED_198">198</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Roasted, <a href="#QUAILS_ROASTED_198">198</a>.</li> + <li><b>Quenelles</b>, <a href="#QUENELLES_300">300</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Forcemeat, <a href="#QUENELLE_FORCEMEAT_298">298</a>.</li> + <li><b>Quick aspic</b>, <a href="#QUICK_ASPIC_322">322</a>.</li> + <li><b>Quinces, baked</b>, <a href="#Quinces_baked_532">532</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Jelly, <a href="#QUINCE_JELLY_544">544</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Marmalade, <a href="#QUINCE_MARMALADE_542">542</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="indexletter">R</p> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li><b>Ragoût of beef</b>, <a href="#RAGOUT_OF_BEEF_153">153</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Of mutton, <a href="#RAGOUT_OF_MUTTON_OR_LAMB_164">164</a>.</li> + <li><b>Raisins</b>, <a href="#Raisins_60">60</a>, <a href="#Raisins_389">389</a>.</li> + <li><b>Range</b>, <a href="#Coal_and_Range_63">63</a>.</li> + <li><b>Raspberry vinegar</b>, <a href="#RASPBERRY_VINEGAR_558">558</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Preserve, <a href="#RASPBERRY_PRESERVE_540">540</a>.</li> + <li><b>Raw beef sandwiches</b>, <a href="#RAW_BEEF_SANDWICHES_367">367</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Oysters, <a href="#Raw_oysters_131">131</a>.</li> + <li><a name="corr74" id="corr74"></a><b>Réchauffé of mutton</b>, <a href="#RECHAUFFE_OF_COLD_MUTTON_234">234</a>.</li> + <li><b>Redhead ducks</b>, <a href="#CANVASBACKS_196">196</a>.</li> + <li><b>Refrigerator</b>, <a href="#Refrigerator_62">62</a>.</li> + <li><b>Rennet custard</b>, <a href="#RENNET_CUSTARD_397">397</a>.</li> + <li><b>Rhode Island Johnny cake</b>, <a href="#RHODE_ISLAND_JOHNNY-CAKE_237">237</a>.</li> + <li><b>Ribbon jelly</b>, <a href="#RIBBON_JELLY_418">418</a>.</li> + <li><b>Rice, to boil</b>, <a href="#TO_BOIL_RICE_222">222</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Southern way of boiling, <a href="#SOUTHERN_WAY_OF_COOKING_RICE_248">248</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Bavarian, <a href="#RICE_BAVARIAN_402">402</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Ice-cream, <a href="#RICE_ICE-CREAM_498">498</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pancakes, <a href="#RICE_PANCAKES_362">362</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Parched, <a href="#PARCHED_RICE_223">223</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pudding No. 1, <a href="#PLAIN_RICE_PUDDING_No_1_433">433</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> No. 2, <a href="#RICE_PUDDING_No_2_433">433</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Lemon rice-pudding, <a href="#LEMON_RICE_PUDDING_242">242</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">And marmalade pudding, <a href="#RICE_AND_ORANGE-MARMALADE_PUDDING_242">242</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">And raisins, <a href="#RICE_AND_RAISINS_434">434</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pudding glacé, <a href="#IMPERATRICE_505">505</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">And tomatoes, <a href="#RICE_AND_TOMATO_223">223</a>.</li> + <li><b>Rich pudding sauce</b>, <a href="#RICH_PUDDING_SAUCE_445">445</a>.</li> + <li><b>Richelieu sauce</b>, <a href="#RICHELIEU_SAUCE_448">448</a>.</li> + <li><b>Rissotto</b>, <a href="#RISSOTTO_227">227</a>.</li> + <li><b>Rissoles</b>, <a href="#RISSOLES_305">305</a>.</li> + <li><b>Roast beef</b>, <a href="#TO_ROAST_BEEF_146">146</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cold, <a href="#COLD_ROAST_BEEF_151">151</a>.</li> + <li><b>Roasted oysters</b>, <a href="#ROASTED_OYSTERS_133">133</a>.</li> + <li><b>Roasting</b>, <a href="#ROASTING_70">70</a>.</li> + <li><b>Rolled loin of mutton</b>, <a href="#ROLLED_LOIN_162">162</a>.</li> + <li><b>Rolls, baking</b>, <a href="#Baking_bread_rolls_344">344</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Bread, <a href="#BREAD_ROLLS_349">349</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cleft, <a href="#CLEFT_ROLLS_351">351</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Luncheon and tea, <a href="#LUNCHEON_AND_TEA_ROLLS_351">351</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Parker House, <a href="#PARKER_HOUSE_ROLLS_351">351</a>.</li> + <li><b>Roly-poly pudding</b>, <a href="#ROLY-POLY_PUDDING_443">443</a>.</li> + <li><b>Rose sugar</b>, <a href="#Rose_sugar_391">391</a>.</li> + <li><b>Roux, to make</b>, <a href="#TO_MAKE_ROUX_79">79</a>.</li> + <li><b>Royal icing</b>, <a href="#ROYAL_ICING_483">483</a>.</li> + <li><b>Royale</b>, <a href="#ROYALE_92">92</a>.</li> + <li><b>Rum omelet</b>, <a href="#RUM_OMELET_426">426</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sauce, <a href="#BRANDY_RUM_OR_KIRSCH_SAUCE_445">445</a>.</li> + <li><b>Rusks</b>, <a href="#RUSKS_357">357</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Dried, <a href="#DRIED_RUSKS_358">358</a>.</li> + <li><b>Russian jellies</b>, <a href="#RUSSIAN_JELLIES_417">417</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Salad, <a href="#RUSSIAN_SALAD_383">383</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Bowls, <a href="#Russian_bowls_329">329</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="indexletter">S</p> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li><b>Sabayon sauces</b>, <a href="#SABAYON_No_1_446">446</a>.</li> + <li><b>Saddle of mutton</b>, <a href="#ROAST_SADDLE_OF_MUTTON_162">162</a>.</li> + <li><b>Salads</b>, general remarks about, <a name="corr75" id="corr75"></a><a href="#Chapter_XVII">374</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Aspic of pâté en bellevue, <a href="#ASPIC_OF_PATE_384">384</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> with walnuts, <a href="#CHICKEN_ASPIC_WITH_WALNUTS_384">384</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Bean, <a href="#BEAN_SALADS_377">377</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Bird’s nest, <a href="#BIRDS-NEST_SALAD_385">385</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Bouilli, <a href="#BOUILLI_SALAD_383">383</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cauliflower, <a href="#CAULIFLOWER_SALAD_377">377</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Celery, <a href="#CELERY_SALAD_376">376</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> and walnut, <a href="#CELERY_AND_WALNUT_SALAD_381">381</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chicken, <a href="#EASY_CHICKEN_SALAD_235">235</a>, <a href="#CHICKEN_SALAD_382">382</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_573" id="Page_573">[573]</a></span>Cold slaw, <a href="#COLD_SLAW_378">378</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cucumber, <a href="#CUCUMBER_SALAD_377">377</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1-5">“</span> and tomato, <a href="#CUCUMBER_AND_TOMATO_SALAD_377">377</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Egg, No. 1, <a href="#EGG_SALAD_No_1_381">381</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad0-5">“</span> No. 2, <a href="#EGG_SALAD_No_2_381">381</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">French dressing for, <a href="#FRENCH_DRESSING_375">375</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Hot slaw, <a href="#HOT_SLAW_379">379</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Lettuce, <a href="#LETTUCE_SALAD_376">376</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Lobster, <a href="#LOBSTER_SALAD_382">382</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Macédoine, <a href="#MACEDOINE_SALAD_378">378</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Mayonnaise dressing for, <a href="#MAYONNAISE_288">288</a>, <a href="#MAYONNAISE_WITH_ARROWROOT_290">290</a>, <a href="#MAYONNAISE_375">375</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To marinate, <a href="#Marinating_374">374</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Orange, <a href="#ORANGE_SALAD_382">382</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Oyster, <a href="#OYSTER_SALAD_383">383</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Potato, <a href="#POTATO_SALAD_378">378</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Russian, <a href="#RUSSIAN_SALAD_383">383</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1-5">“</span> Individual, <a href="#INDIVIDUAL_RUSSIAN_SALADS_383">383</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sandwiches, <a href="#SALAD_SANDWICHES_366">366</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">String bean, <a href="#STRING-BEAN_SALAD_377">377</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sweetbreads with celery, <a href="#SWEETBREADS_WITH_CELERY_381">381</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Tomato No. 1, <a href="#Tomato_Salad_No_1_379">379</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> and egg, <a href="#No_3_TOMATOES_AND_EGGS_380">380</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> jelly, <a href="#No_5_TOMATO_JELLY_380">380</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> “ molded, <a href="#No_4_MOLDED_TOMATOES_380">380</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> stuffed, <a href="#No_2_STUFFED_TOMATOES_380">380</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Water cress and apples, <a href="#WATER-CRESS_AND_APPLES_376">376</a>.</li> + <li><b>Sally lunn</b>, <a href="#SALLY_LUNN_355">355</a>.</li> + <li><b>Salmi of duck or game</b>, <a href="#SALMI_OF_DUCK_196">196</a>.</li> + <li><b>Salmon</b>, <a href="#SALMON_128">128</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Broiled slices of, <a href="#BROILED_SLICES_OF_SALMON_129">129</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Canned, <a href="#CANNED_SALMON_129">129</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cutlets, <a href="#SALMON_CUTLETS_129">129</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fillets for green luncheon, <a href="#FILLETS_OF_SALMON_FOR_GREEN_LUNCHEON_130">130</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Slices with mayonnaise, <a href="#SLICES_OF_SALMON_WITH_MAYONNAISE_129">129</a>.</li> + <li><b>Salpicon</b>, <a href="#SALPICON_80">80</a>, <a href="#SALPICON_299">299</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Of fruits, <a href="#Salpicon_of_fruits_532">532</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Punch, <a href="#SALPICON_OF_FRUIT_PUNCH_533">533</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Lobster, <a href="#SALPICON_OF_LOBSTER_140">140</a>.</li> + <li><b>Salt codfish</b>, <a href="#SALT_CODFISH_127">127</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Mackerel, <a href="#SALT_MACKEREL_127">127</a>.</li> + <li><b>Salted nuts</b>, <a href="#Salted_almonds_533">533</a>.</li> + <li><b>Sandwiches</b>, remarks about, <a href="#SANDWICHES_AND_CANAPES_364">364</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Shapes of, <a href="#Shapes_364">364</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">How to prepare meat for, <a href="#How_to_prepare_the_meat_364">364</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">How to prepare bread for, <a href="#How_to_prepare_the_bread_365">365</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Butter, <a href="#butter_33">33</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cheese, <a href="#CHEESE_SANDWICHES_367">367</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Egg, <a href="#EGG_SANDWICHES_366">366</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fish, <a href="#Fish_sandwiches_366">366</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Meat, <a href="#Meat_sandwiches_365">365</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Raw beef, <a href="#RAW_BEEF_SANDWICHES_367">367</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Rolls, <a href="#How_to_prepare_the_bread_365">365</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Salad, <a href="#SALAD_SANDWICHES_366">366</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Spanish, <a href="#SPANISH_SANDWICHES_367">367</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sweet, <a href="#SWEET_SANDWICHES_367">367</a>.</li> + <li><b>Sardine canapés</b>, <a href="#SARDINE_CANAPES_368">368</a>.</li> + <li><b>Sardines, broiled</b>, <a href="#BROILED_SARDINES_ON_TOAST_128">128</a>.</li> + <li><b>Sauces for meats</b>, <a name="corr76" id="corr76"></a><a href="#General_directions_275">275</a>.</li> + <li><b>Sauces for sweet puddings</b>, <a href="#PUDDING_SAUCES_444">444</a>.</li> + <li><b>Sauces for cold sweet desserts</b>, <a href="#Sauces_393">393</a>.</li> + <li><b>Sauces for macaroni, rissotto</b>, <a href="#SAUCE_FOR_MACARONI_226">226</a>.</li> + <li><b>Sauces for boiled fish, kinds of</b>, <a href="#Sauces_114">114</a>.</li> + <li><b>Sauces</b>, <a name="corr77" id="corr77"></a><a href="#Chapter_XI">275</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">General directions for, <a href="#General_directions_275">275</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Agra dolce, <a href="#AGRA_DOLCE_291">291</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Allemande, <a href="#VELOUTE_AND_ALLEMANDE_SAUCES_279">279</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Apple, <a href="#APPLE_SAUCE_288">288</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Béarnaise, <a href="#BEARNAISE_288">288</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Béchamel, <a href="#BECHAMEL_SAUCE_279">279</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Beurre Noir or Brown Butter, <a href="#BEURRE_NOIR_291">291</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Bread, <a href="#BREAD_SAUCE_287">287</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Brown, <a href="#BROWN_SAUCE_282">282</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Caper, <a href="#CAPER_SAUCE_279">279</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Celery, <a href="#CELERY_SAUCE_279">279</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Champagne, <a href="#CHAMPAGNE_SAUCE_283">283</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chaudfroid, <a href="#CHAUDFROID_SAUCE_281">281</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cranberry, <a href="#CRANBERRY_SAUCE_287">287</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Curry, <a href="#CURRY_SAUCE_284">284</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Egg, <a href="#EGG_SAUCE_FOR_BOILED_FISH_278">278</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Espagnole, <a href="#ESPAGNOLE_282">282</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">For mixing croquettes, <a href="#SAUCE_FOR_CROQUETTE_MIXTURE_293">293</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad0-5">“</span> macaroni, 223, 226.</li> + <li class="subhead">Giblet, <a href="#GIBLET_SAUCE_185">185</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Glaze, <a href="#GLAZE_277">277</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Hollandaise, <a href="#HOLLANDAISE_281">281</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Horseradish, <a href="#HORSERADISH_SAUCE_284">284</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Jelly, <a href="#JELLY_SAUCE_287">287</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Lobster, <a href="#LOBSTER_SAUCE_279">279</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">maître d’hôtel, <a href="#MAITRE_DHOTEL_SAUCE_286">286</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Mayonnaise, <a href="#MAYONNAISE_288">288</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad2">“</span> with arrowroot, <a href="#MAYONNAISE_WITH_ARROWROOT_290">290</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad2">“</span> <span class="pad1left">green,</span> <a href="#GREEN_MAYONNAISE_289">289</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad2">“</span> <span class="pad1left">jelly,</span> <a href="#JELLY_MAYONNAISE_290">290</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad2">“</span> <span class="pad1left">red,</span> <a href="#RED_MAYONNAISE_290">290</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad2">“</span> <span class="pad1left">white,</span> <a href="#WHITE_MAYONNAISE_289">289</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Mint, <a href="#MINT_SAUCE_287">287</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Mushroom, <a href="#MUSHROOM_SAUCE_286">286</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Mustard, <a href="#MUSTARD_SAUCE_284">284</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Olive, <a href="#OLIVE_SAUCE_285">285</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Oyster, <a href="#OYSTER_SAUCE_279">279</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Piquante, <a href="#PIQUANTE_SAUCE_283">283</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Poulette, <a href="#POULETTE_SAUCE_280">280</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><a name="corr78" id="corr78"></a>Pudding sauces, sweet, <a href="#PUDDING_SAUCES_444">444</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Roux for, <a href="#ROUX_FOR_SAUCES_277">277</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Soubise, <a href="#SOUBISE_SAUCE_284">284</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Tartare, <a href="#TARTARE_290">290</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Tomato, <a href="#TOMATO_SAUCE_285">285</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Velouté, <a href="#VELOUTE_AND_ALLEMANDE_SAUCES_279">279</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Villeroi, <a href="#VILLEROI_280">280</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">White, <a href="#WHITE_SAUCE_277">277</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> for fish, <a href="#WHITE_SAUCE_FOR_FISH_278">278</a>.</li> + <li><b>Sauce</b>, apricot, <a href="#APRICOT_SAUCE_446">446</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Bischoff, <a href="#BISCHOFF_SAUCE_447">447</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Brandy, rum, kirsch, <a href="#BRANDY_RUM_OR_KIRSCH_SAUCE_445">445</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cocoanut, <a href="#COCOANUT_SAUCE_449">449</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cold jelly, <a href="#COLD_JELLY_SAUCE_449">449</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chocolate, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_SAUCE_447">447</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Custard, <a href="#BOILED_CUSTARD_SAUCE_447">447</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Foamy, <a href="#FOAMY_SAUCE_445">445</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fruit, <a href="#FRUIT_SAUCES_446">446</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad0-5">“</span> purée of, <a href="#PUREE_OF_FRUIT_SAUCES_447">447</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Hard, <a href="#HARD_SAUCE_448">448</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Meringue, <a href="#MERINGUE_SAUCE_448">448</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pineapple, <a href="#PINEAPPLE_SAUCE_447">447</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Plain pudding, No. 1 (hot), <a href="#PLAIN_PUDDING_SAUCE_No_1_444">444</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Plain pudding, No. 2 (cold), <a href="#PLAIN_PUDDING_SAUCE_No_2_445">445</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Rich pudding, <a href="#RICH_PUDDING_SAUCE_445">445</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Richelieu, <a href="#RICHELIEU_SAUCE_448">448</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sabayon, No. 1, <a href="#SABAYON_No_1_446">446</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1-5">“</span> No. 2, <a href="#SABAYON_No_2_446">446</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Strawberry, <a href="#STRAWBERRY_SAUCE_449">449</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Syrup, <a href="#SYRUP_SAUCE_446">446</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">For plum pudding glacé, <a href="#SAUCE_FOR_PLUM_PUDDING_GLACE_501">501</a>.</li> + <li><b>Saratoga potatoes</b>, <a href="#SARATOGA_POTATOES_205">205</a>.</li> + <li><b>Sautéing</b>, <a href="#SAUTEING_72">72</a>.</li> + <li><b>Savarins</b>, <a href="#SAVARINS_440">440</a>.</li> + <li><b>Scalloped fish</b>, <a href="#SCALLOPED_FISH_120">120</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Meat, <a href="#SCALLOPED_MEAT_151">151</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Mushrooms, <a href="#SCALLOPED_MUSHROOMS_320">320</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Oysters, <a href="#SCALLOPED_OYSTERS_231">231</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Tomatoes, <a href="#SCALLOPED_TOMATOES_207">207</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Veal, <a href="#VEAL_SCALLOP_172">172</a>.</li> + <li><b>Scallops</b>, <a href="#SCALLOPS_136">136</a>.</li> + <li><b>Scotch broth</b>, <a href="#SCOTCH_BROTH_252">252</a>.</li> + <li><b>Scrambled eggs</b>, <a href="#SCRAMBLED_EGGS_264">264</a>.</li> + <li><b>Seasoning</b>, <a href="#SEASONING_AND_FLAVORING_80">80</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Meats, <a href="#Seasoning_145">145</a>.</li> + <li><b>Serving boiled fish</b>, <a href="#Serving_114">114</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Dinners, <a href="#MANNER_OF_SERVING_DINNERS_10">10</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> the informal, <a href="#SERVING_THE_INFORMAL_DINNER_29">29</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Jellies, <a href="#Serving_414">414</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Wines, <a href="#WINES_560">560</a>.</li> + <li><b>Shad</b>, <a href="#SHAD_125">125</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Planked, <a href="#PLANKED_SHAD_125">125</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Spiced, <a href="#SPICED_SHAD_233">233</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Roe, broiled, <a href="#BROILED_SHAD_ROE_126">126</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad0-5">“</span> croquettes, No. 1, <a href="#SHAD_ROE_CROQUETTES_1_126">126</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad0-5">“</span> <span class="pad2">“</span> No. 2, <a href="#SHAD_ROE_CROQUETTES_2_126">126</a>.</li> + <li><b>Shell fish</b>, <a href="#SHELL-FISH_LOBSTERS_CRABS_131">131</a>.</li> + <li><b>Sherbets</b>, <a href="#PUNCHES_AND_SHERBETS_508">508</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">General remarks about, <a href="#PUNCHES_AND_SHERBETS_508">508</a>.</li> + <li><b>Shirred eggs</b>, <a href="#SHIRRED_EGGS_266">266</a>.</li> + <li><b>Shin of beef</b>, <a href="#TO_PREPARE_SHIN_OF_BEEF_250">250</a>.</li> + <li><b>Shortcake, currant</b>, <a href="#CURRANT_SHORTCAKE_442">442</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Strawberry, <a href="#STRAWBERRY_CAKE_443">443</a>.</li> + <li><b>Shrimps, croustade of</b>, <a href="#CROUSTADE_OF_SHRIMPS_130">130</a>.</li> + <li><b>Smelts à la Toulouse</b>, <a href="#SMELTS_A_LA_TOULOUSE_334">334</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Broiled, <a href="#BROILED_SMELTS_118">118</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To fry, <a href="#TO_FRY_SMELTS_117">117</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fried on skewers, <a href="#FRIED_FILLETS_OF_FISH_118">118</a>.</li> + <li><b>Snipe</b>, <a href="#SNIPE_AND_WOODCOCK_198">198</a>.</li> + <li><b>Snow apple pudding</b>, <a href="#SNOW_APPLE_PUDDING_429">429</a>.</li> + <li><b>Snow pudding</b>, <a href="#WHIPPED_JELLY_417">417</a>.</li> + <li><b>Soap, to make</b>, <a href="#TO_MAKE_WHITE_HARD_SOAP_259">259</a>.</li> + <li><b>Socles</b>, <a href="#SOCLES_326">326</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Of rice, <a href="#RICE_SOCLE_327">327</a>.</li> + <li><b>Soubise sauce</b>, <a href="#SOUBISE_SAUCE_284">284</a>.</li> + <li><b>Soufflés</b>, <a href="#SOUFFLES_421">421</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Apple, <a href="#APPLE_SOUFFLE_424">424</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cheese, <a href="#CHEESE_SOUFFLE_370">370</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chicken, <a href="#CHICKEN_SOUFFLE_190">190</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chocolate, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_SOUFFLE_423">423</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Omelet, <a href="#OMELET_SOUFFLE_422">422</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Potato, <a href="#POTATO_SOUFFLE_202">202</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Prune, <a href="#PRUNE_SOUFFLE_423">423</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Spinach, <a href="#SPINACH_SOUFFLE_211">211</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Vanilla, <a href="#VANILLA_SOUFFLE_422">422</a>.</li> + <li><b>Soup</b>, general directions for, <a href="#Chapter_II">84</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Meats, <a href="#Soup_Meats_85">85</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Vegetables, <a href="#Soup_Vegetables_85">85</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Inexpensive, <a href="#Tomato_255">255</a>.</li> + <li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_574" id="Page_574">[574]</a></span><b>Garnishes for Soup</b>, <a href="#Garnishes_for_Soups_90">90</a>, <a href="#GARNISHES_FOR_SOUPS_92">92</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Forcemeat balls, <a href="#FORCE-MEAT_BALLS_92">92</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Egg balls, <a href="#EGG_BALLS_92">92</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Green pea timbale, <a href="#GREEN_PEA_TIMBALE_94">94</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Harlequin slices, <a href="#HARLEQUIN_SLICES_94">94</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Marrow balls, <a href="#MARROW_BALLS_94">94</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Noodles, <a href="#NOODLES_93">93</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> balls, <a href="#NOODLE_BALLS_93">93</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sweet potato balls, <a href="#SWEET_POTATO_BALLS_94">94</a>.</li> + <li><b>Soup</b>, bean, <a href="#SPLIT-PEA_OR_BEAN_SOUP_102">102</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Black bean, <a href="#BLACK-BEAN_SOUP_102">102</a>, <a href="#BLACK_BEAN_SOUP_229">229</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Bouillon, <a href="#BOUILLON_97">97</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Calf’s head or mock turtle, <a href="#CALFS-HEAD_OR_MOCK-TURTLE_SOUP_103">103</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chicken, <a href="#PLAIN_CHICKEN_SOUP_100">100</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1-5">“</span> consommé, <a href="#CHICKEN_CONSOMME_100">100</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Clam, <a href="#CLAM_SOUP_104">104</a>, <a href="#CLAM_SOUP_230">230</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Croûte au pot, <a href="#Croute_au_Pot_90">90</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fish stock and, <a href="#FISH_STOCK_103">103</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Julienne, <a href="#Julienne_89">89</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Lobster bisque, <a href="#BISQUE_OF_LOBSTER_109">109</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1-5">“</span> butter for, <a href="#LOBSTER_BUTTER_109">109</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Macaroni, <a href="#Macaroni_soup_89">89</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Noodle, <a href="#Noodle_soup_89">89</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Onion, <a href="#ONION_SOUP_105">105</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Oyster, <a href="#OYSTER_SOUP_104">104</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Ox-tail, <a href="#OX-TAIL_SOUP_99">99</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pea, <a href="#SPLIT-PEA_OR_BEAN_SOUP_102">102</a>, <a href="#SPLIT_PEA_SOUP_229">229</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Potato, <a href="#POTATO_SOUP_105">105</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Tapioca, <a href="#Tapioca_90">90</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Tomato bisque, <a href="#TOMATO_BISQUE_106">106</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> purée, <a href="#TOMATO_PURE_101">101</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Vegetable, <a href="#Vermicelli_soup_89">89</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad2">“</span> or printanière, <a href="#Julienne_89">89</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Vermicelli, <a href="#Vermicelli_soup_89">89</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">White, <a href="#WHITE_SOUP_99">99</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Broths, <a href="#BROTHS_95">95</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead2">Clam, <a href="#CLAM_BROTH_95">95</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead2">Chicken, <a href="#CHICKEN_BROTH_95">95</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead2">Mutton, <a href="#MUTTON_BROTH_95">95</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead2">Made quickly for invalids, <a href="#Broth_for_Invalids_96">96</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chowders, <a href="#CHOWDERS_110">110</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead2">Potato, <a href="#POTATO_CHOWDER_110">110</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead2">Clam, <a href="#CLAM_CHOWDER_111">111</a>, <a href="#CLAM_CHOWDER_230">230</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead2">Fish, <a href="#FISH_CHOWDER_110">110</a>, <a href="#FISH_CHOWDER_230">230</a>.</li> + <li><b>Soups, cream</b>, <a href="#CREAM_SOUPS_105">105</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">“ asparagus, <a href="#CREAM_OF_ASPARAGUS_106">106</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">“ celery, <a href="#CREAM_OF_CELERY_106">106</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">“ clams, <a href="#CREAM_OF_CLAMS_107">107</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">“ corn, <a name="corr79" id="corr79"></a><a href="#CREAM_OF_CORN_106">106</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">“ green peas, <a href="#CREAM_OF_GREEN_PEAS_106">106</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">“ oysters, <a href="#CREAM_OF_OYSTERS_108">108</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">“ spinach, <a name="corr80" id="corr80"></a><a href="#CREAM_OR_SPINACH_106">106</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><a name="corr81" id="corr81"></a>“ string beans, <a href="#CREAM_OF_STRING_BEANS_106">106</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead2"><span class="pad1-5">“</span> à la reine, <a href="#SOUP_A_LA_REINE_108">108</a>.</li> + <li><b>Southern dishes</b>, <a href="#DISTINCTIVELY_SOUTHERN_DISHES_246">246</a>.</li> + <li><b>Spaghetti</b>, <a href="#SPAGHETTI_225">225</a>.</li> + <li><b>Spanish omelet</b>, <a href="#SPANISH_OMELET_274">274</a>.</li> + <li><b>Spanish Sandwiches</b>, <a href="#SPANISH_SANDWICHES_367">367</a>.</li> + <li><b>Spiced Grapes</b>, <a href="#SPICED_GRAPES_544">544</a>.</li> + <li><b>Spinach</b>, <a href="#SPINACH_210">210</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chartreuse of, <a href="#CHARTREUSE_OF_SPINACH_211">211</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Soufflé, <a href="#SPINACH_SOUFFLE_211">211</a>.</li> + <li><b>Sponge, to make bread</b>, <a href="#Making_a_sponge_342">342</a>.</li> + <li><b>Sponge cake</b>, Nos. 1, 2, 3, <a href="#SPONGE-CAKE_No_1_466">466</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad0-5">“</span> white, <a href="#WHITE_SPONGE_467">467</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad0-5">“</span> mixing, <a href="#MIXING_SPONGE-CAKES_465">465</a>.</li> + <li><b>Spring lamb</b>, <a href="#SPRING_LAMB_167">167</a>.</li> + <li><b>Squabs</b>, <a href="#ROAST_PIGEONS_197">197.</a></li> + <li><b>Squash</b>, <a href="#SUMMER_SQUASH_218">218</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad0-5">“</span> Pie, <a href="#SQUASH_PIES_238">238</a>.</li> + <li><b>Starch molds for candies</b>, <a href="#TO_MAKE_STARCH_MOLDS_525">525</a>.</li> + <li><b>Steaks, Hamburg</b>, <a href="#HAMBURG_STEAKS_151">151</a>.</li> + <li><b>Stew, Irish</b>, <a href="#IRISH_STEW_165">165</a>.</li> + <li><b>Stewed figs</b>, <a href="#Stewed_figs_531">531</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad0-5">“</span> pears, <a href="#STEWED_PEARS_244">244</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad0-5">“</span> kidneys, <a href="#STEWED_KIDNEYS_173">173</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad0-5">“</span> lobster, <a href="#STEWED_LOBSTER_232">232</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad0-5">“</span> oysters, <a href="#OYSTER_STEW_331">331</a>.</li> + <li><b>Sterilized Milk</b>, <a href="#STERILIZED_MILK_257">257</a>.</li> + <li><b>Sticks, bread</b>, <a href="#BREAD_STICKS_357">357</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad0-5">“</span> cheese, <a href="#CHEESE_AND_CHEESE_DISHES_369">369</a>.</li> + <li><b>Stock, soup</b>, <a href="#Chapter_II">84</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad0-5">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span> brown, <a href="#BEEF_OR_BROWN_STOCK_88">88</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad0-5">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span> white, <a href="#WHITE_STOCK_99">99</a>.</li> + <li><b>Strawberries</b>, <a href="#Strawberries_530">530</a>.</li> + <li><b>Strawberry Cake</b>, <a href="#STRAWBERRY_CAKE_443">443</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Charlotte, <a href="#CHARLOTTE_PRINCESSE_de_GALLES_406">406</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Shortcake, <a href="#STRAWBERRY_SHORTCAKE_442">442</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Preserved, <a href="#PRESERVED_STRAWBERRIES_No_1_539">539</a>, <a href="#PRESERVED_STRAWBERRIES_No_2_540">540</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><a name="corr82" id="corr82"></a>Suprême of, <a href="#SUPREME_OF_STRAWBERRIES_419">419</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sauce, <a href="#STRAWBERRY_SAUCE_449">449</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Ice, <a href="#STRAWBERRY-ICE_508">508</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Ice-cream, <a href="#FRUIT_ICE-CREAMS_501">501</a>.</li> + <li><b>Stirring</b>, <a href="#STIRRING_AND_BEATING_78">78</a>.</li> + <li><b>Store-closet</b>, <a href="#EMERGENCIES_55">55</a>, <a href="#THE_STORE-CLOSET_394">394</a>.</li> + <li><b>Strainers</b>, <a href="#Strainers_60">60</a>.</li> + <li><b>String beans</b>, <a href="#STRING_BEANS_209">209</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad0-5">“</span> salad, <a href="#STRING-BEAN_SALAD_377">377</a>.</li> + <li><b>Stuffing for baked fish</b>, <a href="#STUFFINGS_FOR_BAKED_FISH_116">116</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad0-5">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span> Boned fowls, <a href="#FORCEMEAT_183">183</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad0-5">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span> fowls, <a href="#STUFFING_FOR_FOWLS_184">184</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">chestnut, <a href="#CHESTNUT_STUFFING_185">185</a>.</li> + <li><b>Stuffed chicken legs</b>, <a href="#STUFFED_CHICKEN_OR_TURKEY_LEGS_188">188</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cucumbers, <a href="#Stuffed_218">218</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Eggs, <a href="#STUFFED_EGGS_No_1_271">271</a>, <a href="#STUFFED_EGGS_No_2_272">272</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Egg-plant, <a href="#STUFFED_EGG-PLANT_215">215</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Mushrooms, <a href="#STUFFED_MUSHROOMS_309">309</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Peppers, <a href="#STUFFED_PEPPERS_215">215</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Potatoes, <a href="#STUFFED_POTATOES_204">204</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Shoulder of mutton, <a href="#SHOULDER_OF_MUTTON_STUFFED_163">163</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1-5">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> veal, 168.</li> + <li class="subhead">Spanish onions, <a href="#STUFFED_SPANISH_ONIONS_219">219</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Tomatoes, <a href="#STUFFED_TOMATOES_207">207</a>.</li> + <li><b>Succotash</b>, <a href="#SUCCOTASH_220">220</a>.</li> + <li><b>Suet, to try out</b>, <a href="#TO_TRY_OUT_SUET_AND_OTHER_FATS_74">74</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chopping, <a href="#Chopping_Suet_59">59</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pudding, <a href="#SUET_PUDDING_436">436</a>.</li> + <li><b>Sugar and its uses</b>, <a href="#Chapter_XXIII">510</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Boiling, <a href="#BOILING_SUGAR_510">510</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> degrees of, <a href="#DEGREES_OF_BOILING_SUGAR_512">512</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Colored for garnishing, <a href="#Colored_sugars_393">393</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> how to make, <a href="#To_color_sugar_393">393</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Creams, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_CREAMS_524">524</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Spun, <a href="#SPUN_SUGAR_515">515</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> directions for making, <a href="#DIRECTIONS_FOR_SPINNING_SUGAR_515">515</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Syrup, <a href="#SUGAR_SYRUP_503">503</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Syrups, <a href="#SYRUPS_513">513</a>.</li> + <li><b>Sugared Almonds</b>, <a href="#SUGARED_ALMONDS_520">520</a>.</li> + <li><b>Sunshine Cake</b>, <a href="#SUNSHINE_CAKE_467">467</a>.</li> + <li><b>Supply closet</b>, <a href="#Supply-Closet_62">62</a>.</li> + <li><b>Supports for hot meats</b>, <a href="#POTATO_SUPPORT_328">328</a>.</li> + <li><b>Sweetbreads, to prepare</b>, <a href="#TO_PREPARE_SWEETBREADS_305">305</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">à la poulette, <a href="#SWEETBREADS_A_LA_POULETTE_306">306</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Baked, <a href="#BAKED_SWEETBREADS_306">306</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Braised, <a href="#BRAISED_SWEETBREADS_306">306</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chaudfroid of, <a href="#CHAUDFROID_OF_SWEETBREADS_306">306</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fried, <a href="#FRIED_SWEETBREADS_306">306</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Salad, <a href="#SWEETBREADS_WITH_CELERY_381">381</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sautéd, <a href="#SAUTED_SWEETBREADS_306">306</a>.</li> + <li><b>Sweet pancakes</b>, <a href="#SWEET_PANCAKES_426">426</a>.</li> + <li><b>Sweet potatoes</b>, baked, <a href="#SWEET_POTATOES_206">206</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">balls for soup, <a href="#SWEET_POTATO_BALLS_94">94</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">boiled, <a href="#SWEET_POTATOES_206">206</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">browned, <a href="#BROWNED_SWEET_POTATOES_206">206</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">croquettes, <a href="#SWEET_POTATO_CROQUETTES_207">207</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Purée of, <a href="#SWEET_POTATO_PUREE_207">207</a>.</li> + <li><b>Sweet sandwiches</b>, <a href="#SWEET_SANDWICHES_367">367</a>.</li> + <li><b>Swedish cabbage</b>, <a href="#SWEDISH_CABBAGE_213">213</a>.</li> + <li><b>Syrups, fruit</b>, <a href="#FRUIT_SYRUPS_557">557</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">sauce, <a href="#FRUIT_SAUCES_446">446</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">sugar, <a href="#SUGAR_SYRUP_503">503</a>, <a href="#SYRUPS_513">513</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="indexletter">T</p> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li><b>Table, laying the</b>, <a href="#LAYING_THE_TABLE_13">13</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Time, <a href="#TIME_TABLE">inside of cover</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Weights and measures, <a href="#WEIGHTS_AND_MEASURES_387">387</a>.</li> + <li><b>Taffy</b>, <a href="#TAFFY_527">527</a>.</li> + <li><b>Tapioca</b>, Soup, <a href="#Tapioca_90">90</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">and apples, <a href="#Tapioca_and_Apples_252">252</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pudding, <a href="#TAPIOCA_PUDDING_433">433</a>.</li> + <li><b>Tartare sauce</b>, <a href="#TARTARE_290">290</a>.</li> + <li><b>Tart bands</b>, <a name="corr83" id="corr83"></a><a href="#TART_BANDS_460">460</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">bread, <a href="#BREAD_TARTS_435">435</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pies, <a href="#TART_PIES_452">452</a>.</li> + <li><b>Tartlets</b>, <a href="#TARTLETS_461">461</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Paganini, <a href="#PAGANINI_TARTLETS_461">461</a>.</li> + <li><b>Tea</b>, <a href="#TEA_549">549</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Five o’clock, <a name="corr84" id="corr84"></a><a href="#THE_FIVE_OCLOCK_TEA_33">33</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Iced, <a href="#Iced_tea_550">550</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Biscuits, <a href="#TEA_BISCUITS_352">352</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> with sour milk, <a href="#TEA_BISCUITS_352">352</a>.</li> + <li><b>Terrapin</b>, <a href="#TERRAPIN_311">311</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">à la Newburg, <a href="#TERRAPIN_A_LA_NEWBURG_313">313</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">General rules about, <a name="corr85" id="corr85"></a><a href="#TERRAPIN_311">311</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Maryland style, <a href="#STEWED_TERRAPIN_313">313</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">False, <a href="#FALSE_TERRAPIN_308">308</a>.</li> + <li><b>Thickening for soup</b>, <a href="#THICKENING_FOR_SOUPS_90">90</a>.</li> + <li><b>Things to remember</b>, <a href="#THINGS_TO_REMEMBER_58">58</a>.</li> + <li><b>Timbales</b>, <a href="#TIMBALES_296">296</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To mold and cook, <a href="#TO_MOLD_AND_COOK_TIMBALES_298">298</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fish, <a href="#FISH_TIMBALE_123">123</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Halibut, <a href="#SIMPLE_TIMBALE_OF_HALIBUT_303">303</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Honeycomb, <a href="#HONEYCOMB_TIMBALE_302">302</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Macaroni, <a href="#MACARONI_TIMBALE_302">302</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">of brioche, <a href="#BRIOCHE_FOR_TIMBALE_361">361</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Pastry, <a href="#PASTRY_TIMBALE_303">303</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Potato and fish, <a href="#POTATO_AND_FISH_TIMBALE_304">304</a>.</li> + <li><b>Toast</b>, <a href="#TOAST_348">348</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">milk, <a href="#MILK_TOAST_348">348</a>.</li> + <li><b>Tomato bisque</b>, <a href="#TOMATO_BISQUE_106">106</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">broiled, <a href="#BROILED_TOMATOES_208">208</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Farci, <a href="#TOMATO_FARCI_208">208</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Jelly, <a href="#No_5_TOMATO_JELLY_380">380</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Purée, <a href="#TOMATO_PURE_101">101</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Roasted, <a href="#ROASTED_TOMATOES_208">208</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Salads, <a href="#TOMATO_SALADS_379">379</a>, <a href="#No_2_STUFFED_TOMATOES_380">380</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sauce, <a href="#TOMATO_SAUCE_285">285</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Scalloped, <a href="#SCALLOPED_TOMATOES_207">207</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Stewed, <a href="#STEWED_TOMATOES_207">207</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_575" id="Page_575">[575]</a></span>Stuffed, <a href="#STUFFED_TOMATOES_207">207</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> with eggs, <a href="#No_3_TOMATOES_AND_EGGS_380">380</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">and rice, <a href="#RICE_AND_TOMATO_223">223</a>.</li> + <li><b>Tongue, beef</b>, <a href="#BEEFS_TONGUE_174">174</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">cold, <a href="#COLD_TONGUE_175">175</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Hot sliced, <a href="#HOT_SLICED_TONGUE_174">174</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Jellied, <a href="#JELLIED_TONGUE_175">175</a>.</li> + <li><b>Trifle</b>, <a href="#TRIFLE_411">411</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Banana, <a href="#BANANA_TRIFLE_412">412</a>.</li> + <li><b>Tripe</b>, <a href="#TRIPE_173">173</a>.</li> + <li><b>Truffles</b>, <a href="#TRUFFLES_296">296</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To decorate with, <a href="#TO_DECORATE_WITH_TRUFFLES_326">326</a>.</li> + <li><b>Turkey</b>, <a href="#TURKEY_193">193</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Boned, <a href="#TURKEY_GALANTINE_193">193</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Galantine, <a href="#TURKEY_GALANTINE_193">193</a>.</li> + <li><b>Turnips</b>, <a href="#Vegetables_to_serve_with_Mutton_160">160</a>, <a href="#CARROTS_AND_TURNIPS_216">216</a>.</li> + <li><b>Tutti Frutti</b>, <a href="#TUTTI-FRUTTI_501">501</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="indexletter">U</p> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li><b>Uses for stale cake</b>, <a href="#USES_FOR_STALE_CAKE_411">411</a>.</li> + <li><b>Utensils, care of</b>, <a href="#CARE_OF_UTENSILS_61">61</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">For desserts, <a href="#UTENSILS_386">386</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="indexletter">V</p> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li><b>Vanilla soufflé</b>, <a href="#VANILLA_SOUFFLE_422">422</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Ice-cream, <a href="#VANILLA_ICE-CREAMS_494">494</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sugar, <a href="#Vanilla_sugar_391">391</a>.</li> + <li><b>Veal</b>, <a href="#VEAL_168">168</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cutlets, <a href="#VEAL_CUTLETS_169">169</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fricandeau, <a href="#FRICANDEAU_OF_VEAL_169">169</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Jellied, <a href="#JELLIED_VEAL_171">171</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> Loaf, <a href="#VEAL_LOAF_171">171</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Roast fillet of, <a href="#ROAST_FILLET_OF_VEAL_168">168</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Scallop, <a href="#VEAL_SCALLOP_172">172</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Stuffed shoulder of, <a href="#STUFFED_SHOULDER_OF_VEAL_168">168</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">With white sauce, <a href="#VEAL_WITH_WHITE_SAUCE_253">253</a>.</li> + <li><b>Vegetables</b>, general remarks about, <a href="#General_Directions_200">200</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Soup, <a href="#VEGETABLE_SOUP_101">101</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">for soup, <a href="#Soup_Vegetables_85">85</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Macédoine of, <a href="#MACEDOINE_OF_VEGETABLES_216">216</a>.</li> + <li><b>Velouté sauce</b>, <a href="#VELOUTE_AND_ALLEMANDE_SAUCES_279">279</a>.</li> + <li><b>Venetian cakes</b>, <a href="#VENETIAN_CAKES_479">479</a>.</li> + <li><b>Venison</b>, <a href="#VENISON_199">199</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad0-5">“</span> steak, <a href="#VENISON_STEAK_199">199</a>.</li> + <li><b>Vermicelli soup</b>, <a href="#Vermicelli_soup_89">89</a>.</li> + <li><b>Villeroi sauce</b>, <a href="#VILLEROI_280">280</a>.</li> + <li><b>Vol-au-vent</b>, <a href="#VOL_AU_VENT_304">304</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="indexletter">W</p> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li><b>Wafers, molasses</b>, <a href="#MOLASSES_WAFERS_482">482</a>.</li> + <li><b>Waffles</b>, <a href="#WAFFLES_356">356</a>.</li> + <li><b>Walnuts, pickled</b>, <a href="#PICKLED_WALNUTS_545">545</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">English, salted, <a href="#Salted_English_walnuts_533">533</a>.</li> + <li><b>Warren’s Cake</b>, <a href="#WARRENS_CAKE_482">482</a>.</li> + <li><b>Washington Pie</b>, <a href="#WASHINGTON_PIE_457">457</a>.</li> + <li><b>Wastefulness</b>, <a href="#WASTEFULNESS_50">50</a>.</li> + <li><b>Water</b>, <a href="#FILTERED_WATER_548">548</a>.</li> + <li><b>Water-cress salad</b>, <a href="#WATER-CRESS_AND_APPLES_376">376</a>.</li> + <li><b>Water-Ices</b>, <a href="#WATER-ICES_508">508</a>.</li> + <li><b>Weights and measures</b>, <a href="#WEIGHTS_AND_MEASURES_387">387</a>.</li> + <li><b>Welsh rabbit</b>, <a href="#WELSH_RABBIT_371">371</a>.</li> + <li><b>Wheat, cracked</b>, <a href="#CRACKED_WHEAT_228">228</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Whole, bread, <a href="#BREAD_MADE_OF_WHOLE_WHEAT_346">346</a>.</li> + <li><b>Whips</b>, <a href="#WHIPS_409">409</a>.</li> + <li><b>Whipped Cream</b>, <a href="#WHIPPED_CREAM_408">408</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Jelly, <a href="#WHIPPED_JELLY_417">417</a>.</li> + <li><b>Whitebait</b>, <a href="#WHITEBAIT_118">118</a>.</li> + <li><b>White cake</b>, <a href="#WHITE_CAKE_471">471</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Jelly, <a href="#BLANC-MANGE_399">399</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Soup, <a href="#WHITE_SOUP_99">99</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Stock. <a href="#WHITE_STOCK_99">99</a>.</li> + <li><b>Wines, serving</b>, <a href="#WINES_560">560</a>.</li> + <li><b>Wine jelly</b>, <a href="#WINE_JELLY_415">415</a>.</li> + <li><b>Woodcock</b>, <a href="#SNIPE_AND_WOODCOCK_198">198</a>.</li> + <li><b>Wooden spoons</b>, <a href="#Wooden_spoons_330">330</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="indexletter">Y</p> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li><b>Yeast</b>, <a href="#The_yeast_plant_338">338</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Remarks about, <a href="#The_yeast_plant_338">338</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Dick Bennet’s, <a href="#DICK_BENNETS_RECEIPT_FOR_YEAST_339">339</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Receipt No. 2, <a href="#YEAST_RECEIPT_No_2_339">339</a>.</li> + <li><b>Yorkshire Pudding</b>, <a href="#YORKSHIRE_PUDDING_147">147</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="indexletter">Z</p> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li><b>Zephyrs</b>, <a href="#ZEPHYRS_238">238</a>.</li> + <li><b>Zwieback</b>, <a href="#ZWIEBACK_349">349</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_576" id="Page_576">[576]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead">GENERAL INDEX</h2> + + +<h3 class="indexchap">PART I.</h3> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Dinner-giving and the etiquette of dinners, <a href="#DINNER-GIVING_AND_THE_ETIQUETTE_OF_DINNERS_1">1</a>.</li> + <li>Manner of serving dinners, <a href="#MANNER_OF_SERVING_DINNERS_10">10</a>.</li> + <li>Laying the table, <a href="#LAYING_THE_TABLE_13">13</a>.</li> + <li>Table decoration, <a href="#TABLE_DECORATION_17">17</a>.</li> + <li>Courses, <a href="#COURSES_24">24</a>.</li> + <li>The home dinner, <a href="#THE_HOME_DINNER_27">27</a>.</li> + <li>Serving the informal dinner, <a href="#SERVING_THE_INFORMAL_DINNER_29">29</a>.</li> + <li>Luncheon, <a href="#LUNCHEON_31">31</a>.</li> + <li>The five o’clock tea, <a href="#THE_FIVE_OCLOCK_TEA_33">33</a>.</li> + <li>A homily on cooking, <a href="#A_HOMILY_ON_COOKING_35">35</a>.</li> + <li>Cooking as a pleasure and an accomplishment, <a href="#COOKING_AS_A_PLEASURE_AND_AN_ACCOMPLISHMENT_38">38</a>.</li> + <li>To train a green cook, <a href="#TO_TRAIN_A_GREEN_COOK_40">40</a>.</li> + <li>Economical living, <a href="#ECONOMICAL_LIVING_44">44</a>.</li> + <li>Mushrooms, <a href="#Mushrooms_45">45</a>, <a href="#MUSHROOMS_314">314</a>.</li> + <li>Menus. “Al Fresco“ dinner, <a href="#AL_FRESCO_DINNER_23">23</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad1">“</span> Luncheon, <a href="#MENUS_FOR_LUNCHEON_31">31</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad1">“</span> Economical living, <a href="#menu_economical_living_47">47</a>, <a href="#Economical_living_menu_252">252</a>.</li> + <li>Wastefulness, <a href="#WASTEFULNESS_50">50</a>.</li> + <li>How to utilize what some cooks throw away, <a href="#HOW_TO_UTILIZE_WHAT_SOME_COOKS_THROW_AWAY_51">51</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Bread, <a href="#Bread_51">51</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fat, <a href="#Fat_51">51</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Bones, <a href="#bones_51">51</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Tough pieces, <a href="#Tough_Pieces_52">52</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Small pieces, <a href="#Small_Pieces_52">52</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cold meats, <a href="#Cold_meats_52">52</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Eggs, <a href="#Eggs_52">52</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">General odds and ends, <a href="#General_Odds_and_Ends_53">53</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cereals, <a href="#Cereals_53">53</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Vegetables, <a name="corr86" id="corr86"></a><a href="#Vegetables_53">53</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sour milk, <a href="#Sour_Milk_54">54</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fruits, <a href="#Fruits_54">54</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cheese, <a href="#Cheese_54">54</a>.</li> + <li>Emergencies, <a href="#EMERGENCIES_55">55</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#THINGS_TO_REMEMBER_58"><i>Things to Remember.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Items about</li> + <li class="subhead">Eggs, <a href="#Eggs_58">58</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Milk, <a href="#Milk_58">58</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Butter, <a href="#Butter_58">58</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Crumbs, <a href="#Crumbs_58">58</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Meats, <a href="#Meats_59">59</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Drippings, <a href="#Drippings_59">59</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Onion juice, <a href="#Onion_Juice_59">59</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chopping suet, <a href="#Chopping_Suet_59">59</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1-5">“</span> almonds, <a href="#Chopping_or_Pounding_Almonds_59">59</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Mixing liquids and solids together, <a href="#Mixing_59">59</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Gelatine, <a href="#Gelatine_60">60</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Molds, <a href="#Molds_60">60</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Strainers, <a href="#Strainers_60">60</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To keep dishes warm, <a href="#To_keep_Dishes_Warm_60">60</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Flavoring, <a href="#Flavoring_60">60</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Raisins, <a href="#Raisins_60">60</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Baking, <a href="#Baking_60">60</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Utensils, care of, <a href="#CARE_OF_UTENSILS_61">61</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1-5">“</span> cleaning, <a href="#clean_utensils_61">61</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Tins, sieves, woodenware, <a href="#Tins_Sieves_Woodenware">62</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Tins, arrangement of, <a href="#Arrangement_of_Utensils_in_Closet_62">62</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Supply closet, <a href="#Supply-Closet_62">62</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Refrigerator, <a href="#Refrigerator_62">62</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Coal and range, <a href="#Coal_and_Range_63">63</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Ovens, <a href="#Ovens_63">63</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h3 class="indexchap"><a href="#PART_II">PART II.</a></h3> + +<h3 class="indexchap"><a href="#Chapter_I">CHAPTER I.</a></h3> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#Chapter_I"><i>Methods of Cooking Explained.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Boiling, <a href="#BOILING_67">67</a>.</li> + <li>Baking, <a href="#BAKING_69">69</a>.</li> + <li>Roasting, <a href="#ROASTING_70">70</a>.</li> + <li>Broiling, <a href="#BROILING_70">70</a>.</li> + <li>Braising, <a href="#BRAISING_71">71</a>.</li> + <li>Fricasseeing, <a href="#FRICASSEEING_71">71</a>.</li> + <li>Sautéing, <a href="#SAUTEING_72">72</a>.</li> + <li>Frying, <a href="#FRYING_72">72</a>.</li> + <li>To clarify fat, <a href="#TO_CLARIFY_FAT_74">74</a>.</li> + <li>To try out suet and other fats, <a href="#TO_TRY_OUT_SUET_AND_OTHER_FATS_74">74</a>.</li> + <li>To prepare articles for frying by covering them with egg and crumbs, <a href="#TO_PREPARE_ARTICLES_FOR_FRYING_75">75</a>.</li> + <li>The crumbs, <a href="#The_Crumbs_75">75</a>.</li> + <li>The egg, <a href="#The_Egg_75">75</a>.</li> + <li>The molding, <a href="#Molding_76">76</a>.</li> + <li>Larding, <a href="#LARDING_76">76</a>.</li> + <li>Daubing, <a href="#DAUBING_76">76</a>.</li> + <li>Boning, <a href="#BONING_77">77</a>.</li> + <li>Measuring, <a href="#MEASURING_77">77</a>.</li> + <li>Stirring and beating, <a href="#STIRRING_AND_BEATING_78">78</a>.</li> + <li>How to stone olives, <a href="#HOW_TO_STONE_OLIVES_78">78</a>.</li> + <li>How to cut bacon, <a href="#HOW_TO_CUT_BACON_78">78</a>.</li> + <li>How to extract onion juice, <a href="#HOW_TO_EXTRACT_ONION_JUICE_78">78</a>.</li> + <li>Caramel, <a href="#CARAMEL_78">78</a>.</li> + <li>To make roux, <a href="#TO_MAKE_ROUX_79">79</a>.</li> + <li>To marinate, <a href="#TO_MARINATE_79">79</a>.</li> + <li>Salpicon, <a href="#SALPICON_80">80</a>.</li> + <li>Seasoning and flavoring, <a href="#SEASONING_AND_FLAVORING_80">80</a>.</li> + <li>Croûtons and croustades, <a href="#CROUTONS_AND_CROUSTADES_81">81</a>.</li> + <li>Chartreuse, <a href="#CHARTREUSE_83">83</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h3 class="indexchap"><a href="#Chapter_II">CHAPTER II.</a></h3> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#Chapter_II"><i>Soups.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>General directions for preparing soups, including directions for</li> + <li class="subhead">Brown stock, <a href="#Brown_Stock_84">84</a>, <a href="#BEEF_OR_BROWN_STOCK_88">88</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">White stock, <a href="#White_Stock_84">84</a>, <a href="#WHITE_STOCK_99">99</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_577" id="Page_577">[577]</a></span>Chicken consommé, <a href="#CHICKEN_CONSOMME_100">100</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cream soups, <a href="#Cream_Soups_85">85</a>, <a href="#CREAM_SOUPS_105">105</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Soup meats, <a href="#Soup_Meats_85">85</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> vegetables, <a href="#Soup_Vegetables_85">85</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">The bouquet, <a href="#The_Bouquet_85">85</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Proportions, <a href="#Proportions_85">85</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">The order of preparation, <a href="#The_order_of_reparing_Soups_85">85</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Removing the grease, <a href="#Removing_the_Grease_86">86</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Clarifying, <a href="#Clarifying_86">86</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Coloring, <a href="#Coloring_87">87</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Meat stock, <a href="#Meat_Stock_87">87</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Common stock <a name="corr87" id="corr87"></a>(pot-au-feu), <a href="#COMMON_STOCK">87</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Beef or brown stock, <a href="#BEEF_OR_BROWN_STOCK_88">88</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Macaroni soup, <a href="#Macaroni_soup_89">89</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Noodle soup, <a href="#Noodle_soup_89">89</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Vermicelli soup, <a href="#Vermicelli_soup_89">89</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Vegetable or printanière soup, <a href="#Printaniere_89">89</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Julienne soup, <a href="#Julienne_89">89</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Tapioca soup, <a href="#Tapioca_90">90</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Croûte au pot, <a href="#Croute_au_Pot_90">90</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Garnishes for soup, <a href="#Garnishes_for_Soups_90">90</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Thickening for soup, <a href="#THICKENING_FOR_SOUPS_90">90</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Garnishes for soups, <a href="#GARNISHES_FOR_SOUPS_92">92</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead2">Royale, <a href="#ROYALE_92">92</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead2">Forcemeat balls, <a href="#FORCE-MEAT_BALLS_92">92</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead2">Egg, <a href="#EGG_BALLS_92">92</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead2">Egg balls, <a href="#EGG_BALLS_92">92</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead2">Noodles, <a href="#NOODLES_93">93</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead2"><span class="pad1-5">“</span> to serve as a vegetable, <a href="#NOODLES_SERVED_AS_A_VEGETABLE_93">93</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead2">Noodle balls, <a href="#NOODLE_BALLS_93">93</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead2">Marrow balls, <a href="#MARROW_BALLS_94">94</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead2">Sweet potato balls, <a href="#SWEET_POTATO_BALLS_94">94</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead2">Green pea timbale, <a href="#GREEN_PEA_TIMBALE_94">94</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead2">Harlequin slices, <a href="#HARLEQUIN_SLICES_94">94</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#BROTHS_95"><i>Broths.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Chicken broth, <a href="#CHICKEN_BROTH_95">95</a>.</li> + <li>Clam broth, <a href="#CLAM_BROTH_95">95</a>.</li> + <li>Mutton broth, <a href="#MUTTON_BROTH_95">95</a>.</li> + <li>Broth made quickly for invalids, <a href="#Broth_for_Invalids_96">96</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#SOUPS_97"><i>Soups.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Bouillon, <a href="#BOUILLON_97">97</a>.</li> + <li>Consommé, <a href="#CONSOMME_98">98</a>.</li> + <li>Ox-tail soup, <a href="#OX-TAIL_SOUP_99">99</a>.</li> + <li>White stock, <a href="#WHITE_STOCK_99">99</a>.</li> + <li>White soup, <a href="#WHITE_SOUP_99">99</a>.</li> + <li>Chicken consommé, <a href="#CHICKEN_CONSOMME_100">100</a>.</li> + <li>Plain chicken soup, <a href="#PLAIN_CHICKEN_SOUP_100">100</a>.</li> + <li>Vegetable soup, <a href="#VEGETABLE_SOUP_101">101</a>.</li> + <li>Tomato purée, <a href="#TOMATO_PURE_101">101</a>.</li> + <li>Split-pea or bean soup, <a href="#SPLIT-PEA_OR_BEAN_SOUP_102">102</a>.</li> + <li>Black bean soup, <a href="#BLACK-BEAN_SOUP_102">102</a>.</li> + <li>Calf’s head or mock turtle, <a href="#CALFS-HEAD_OR_MOCK-TURTLE_SOUP_103">103</a>.</li> + <li>Fish stock, <a href="#FISH_STOCK_103">103</a>.</li> + <li>Oyster soup, <a href="#OYSTER_SOUP_104">104</a>.</li> + <li>Clam soup, <a href="#CLAM_SOUP_104">104</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#CREAM_SOUPS_105"><i>Cream Soups.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Onion soup, <a href="#ONION_SOUP_105">105</a>.</li> + <li>Potato soup, <a href="#POTATO_SOUP_105">105</a>.</li> + <li>Tomato bisque, <a href="#TOMATO_BISQUE_106">106</a>.</li> + <li>Cream of asparagus, <a href="#CREAM_OF_ASPARAGUS_106">106</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Green peas, <a href="#CREAM_OF_GREEN_PEAS_106">106</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">String beans, <a href="#CREAM_OF_STRING_BEANS_106">106</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Spinach, <a href="#CREAM_OR_SPINACH_106">106</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Corn, <a href="#CREAM_OF_CORN_106">106</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Celery, <a href="#CREAM_OF_CELERY_106">106</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Clams, <a href="#CREAM_OF_CLAMS_107">107</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Oysters, <a href="#CREAM_OF_OYSTERS_108">108</a>.</li> + <li>Soup à la reine, <a href="#SOUP_A_LA_REINE_108">108</a>.</li> + <li>Bisque of lobster, <a href="#BISQUE_OF_LOBSTER_109">109</a>.</li> + <li>Lobster butter, <a href="#LOBSTER_BUTTER_109">109</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#CHOWDERS_110"><i>Chowders.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Potato chowder, <a href="#POTATO_CHOWDER_110">110</a>.</li> + <li>Fish chowder, <a href="#FISH_CHOWDER_110">110</a>.</li> + <li>Clam chowder, <a href="#CLAM_CHOWDER_111">111</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h3 class="indexchap"><a href="#Chapter_III">CHAPTER III.</a></h3> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#Chapter_III"><i>Fish.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Cooking, <a href="#Cooking_112">112</a>.</li> + <li>Freshness, <a href="#Freshness_112">112</a>.</li> + <li>Dressing, <a href="#Dressing_112">112</a>.</li> + <li>Keeping, <a href="#Keeping_112">112</a>.</li> + <li>Frozen fish, <a href="#Keeping_112">112</a>.</li> + <li>Trimming, <a href="#Trimming_112">112</a>.</li> + <li>The bones, <a href="#The_bones_112">112</a>.</li> + <li>To skin, bone, and remove fillets, <a href="#To_skin_bone_112">112</a>.</li> + <li>To carve, <a href="#TO_CARVE_FISH_113">113</a>.</li> + <li>To boil, <a href="#TO_BOIL_FISH_113">113</a>.</li> + <li>Time to boil, <a href="#Time_113">113</a>.</li> + <li>The kettle, <a href="#The_Kettle_113">113</a>.</li> + <li>To boil a fish whole, <a href="#To_boil_a_fish_whole_114">114</a>.</li> + <li>Serving boiled fish, <a href="#Serving_114">114</a>.</li> + <li>Garnishing boiled fish, <a href="#Garnishes_114">114</a>.</li> + <li>Sauces used for boiled fish, <a href="#Sauces_114">114</a>.</li> + <li>Court bouillon, <a href="#COURT_BOUILLON_115">115</a>.</li> + <li>Baked fish, <a href="#BAKED_FISH_115">115</a>.</li> + <li>Stuffings for baked fish, <a href="#STUFFINGS_FOR_BAKED_FISH_116">116</a>.</li> + <li>To broil fish, <a href="#TO_BROIL_FISH_116">116</a>.</li> + <li>To sauté fish, <a href="#TO_SAUTE_FISH_117">117</a>.</li> + <li>To fry fish, <a href="#TO_FRY_FISH_117">117</a>.</li> + <li>To fry smelts, <a href="#TO_FRY_SMELTS_117">117</a>.</li> + <li>Fried smelts on skewers, <a name="corr88" id="corr88"></a><a href="#FRIED_SMELTS_ON_SKEWERS_117">117</a>.</li> + <li>Fried fillets of fish, <a href="#FRIED_FILLETS_OF_FISH_118">118</a>.</li> + <li>Smelts broiled, <a href="#BROILED_SMELTS_118">118</a>.</li> + <li>Whitebait, <a href="#WHITEBAIT_118">118</a>.</li> + <li>Boiled halibut steaks, <a href="#BOILED_HALIBUT_STEAKS_119">119</a>.</li> + <li>Halibut, Turkish style, <a href="#HALIBUT_TURKISH_STYLE_120">120</a>.</li> + <li>Scalloped fish, <a href="#SCALLOPED_FISH_120">120</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Au gratin, <a href="#SCALLOPED_FISH_AU_GRATIN_121">121</a>.</li> + <li>Fish chops, <a href="#FISH_CHOPS_121">121</a>.</li> + <li>Fillets baked with custard or tomatoes, <a href="#FILLETS_BAKED_WITH_CUSTARD_122">122</a>.</li> + <li>Cold fish, <a href="#COLD_FISH_123">123</a>.</li> + <li>Fish pudding, <a href="#FISH_PUDDING_123">123</a>.</li> + <li>Fish timbale, <a href="#FISH_TIMBALE_123">123</a>.</li> + <li>Fish dish for pink luncheon, <a href="#FISH_DISH_FOR_A_PINK_LUNCHEON_124">124</a>.</li> + <li>Rolled fillets of flounder, <a href="#ROLLED_FILLETS_OF_FLOUNDER_125">125</a>.</li> + <li>Shad, <a href="#SHAD_125">125</a>.</li> + <li>Planked shad, <a href="#PLANKED_SHAD_125">125</a>.</li> + <li>Broiled shad roe, <a href="#BROILED_SHAD_ROE_126">126</a>.</li> + <li>Shad roe croquettes, No. 1, <a href="#SHAD_ROE_CROQUETTES_1_126">126</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">No. 2, <a href="#SHAD_ROE_CROQUETTES_2_126">126</a>.</li> + <li>Salt mackerel, <a href="#SALT_MACKEREL_127">127</a>.</li> + <li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_578" id="Page_578">[578]</a></span>Creamed mackerel, <a href="#CREAMED_MACKEREL_127">127</a>.</li> + <li>Salt codfish, <a href="#SALT_CODFISH_127">127</a>.</li> + <li>Club house fish balls, <a href="#CLUB_HOUSE_FISH_BALLS_128">128</a>.</li> + <li>Broiled sardines on toast, <a href="#BROILED_SARDINES_ON_TOAST_128">128</a>.</li> + <li>Fresh <a name="corr89" id="corr89"></a>fish balls, <a href="#FRESH_FISH_BALLS_128">128</a>.</li> + <li>Salmon, <a href="#SALMON_128">128</a>.</li> + <li>Canned salmon, <a href="#CANNED_SALMON_129">129</a>.</li> + <li>Salmon cutlets, <a href="#SALMON_CUTLETS_129">129</a>.</li> + <li>Broiled slices of salmon, <a href="#BROILED_SLICES_OF_SALMON_129">129</a>.</li> + <li>Slices of salmon with mayonnaise, <a href="#SLICES_OF_SALMON_WITH_MAYONNAISE_129">129</a>.</li> + <li>Fillets of salmon for green luncheon, <a href="#FILLETS_OF_SALMON_FOR_GREEN_LUNCHEON_130">130</a>.</li> + <li>Croustade of shrimps, <a href="#CROUSTADE_OF_SHRIMPS_130">130</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#SHELL-FISH_LOBSTERS_CRABS_131"><i>Shell-fish, Lobsters, and Crabs.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Oysters, <a href="#OYSTERS_131">131</a>.</li> + <li>Raw oysters, <a href="#Raw_oysters_131">131</a>.</li> + <li>Precaution, <a href="#Precaution_131">131</a>.</li> + <li>Cooking, <a href="#Cooking_131">131</a>.</li> + <li>Fried oysters, <a href="#FRIED_OYSTERS_132">132</a>.</li> + <li>Oysters à la Villeroi, <a href="#OYSTERS_A_LA_VILLEROI_132">132</a>.</li> + <li>Broiled oysters, <a href="#BROILED_OYSTERS_132">132</a>.</li> + <li>Panned oysters, <a href="#PANNED_OYSTERS_133">133</a>.</li> + <li>Roasted oysters, <a href="#ROASTED_OYSTERS_133">133</a>.</li> + <li>Oysters à la poulette, <a href="#OYSTERS_A_LA_POULETTE_133">133</a>.</li> + <li>Scalloped oysters, <a href="#SCALLOPED_OYSTERS_134">134</a>.</li> + <li>Oyster filling for patties, <a href="#OYSTER_FILLING_FOR_PATTIES_134">134</a>.</li> + <li>Clams, <a href="#CLAMS_135">135</a>.</li> + <li>To open clams, <a href="#TO_OPEN_CLAMS_135">135</a>.</li> + <li>Creamed clams, <a href="#CREAMED_CLAMS_135">135</a>.</li> + <li>Roasted clams, <a href="#ROASTED_CLAMS_136">136</a>.</li> + <li>Clam fritters, <a href="#CLAM_FRITTERS_136">136</a>.</li> + <li>Scallops, <a href="#SCALLOPS_136">136</a>.</li> + <li>Lobsters, <a href="#LOBSTERS_136">136</a>.</li> + <li>Season, <a href="#season_136">136</a>.</li> + <li>Freshness, <a href="#freshness_136">136</a>.</li> + <li>To kill a lobster, <a href="#to_kill_lobster_136">136</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Boil a lobster, <a href="#TO_BOIL_A_LOBSTER_136">136</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Open a lobster, <a href="#TO_OPEN_A_LOBSTER_137">137</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Broil a lobster, <a href="#TO_BROIL_A_LOBSTER_137">137</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Bake a lobster, <a href="#TO_BAKE_A_LOBSTER_137">137</a>.</li> + <li>Lobster farci, <a href="#LOBSTER_FARCI_138">138</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><a href="#LOBSTER_CHOPS_138">Chops</a>, 138.</li> + <li class="subhead">à la Newburg, <a href="#LOBSTER_A_LA_NEWBURG_139">139</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Stew, <a href="#LOBSTER_STEW_140">140</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Filling for patties, <a href="#LOBSTER_FILLING_FOR_PATTIES_140">140</a>.</li> + <li>Salpicon of lobster, <a href="#SALPICON_OF_LOBSTER_140">140</a>.</li> + <li>Crabs, <a href="#CRABS_141">141</a>.</li> + <li>Deviled crabs, <a href="#DEVILED_CRABS_141">141</a>.</li> + <li>Stuffed crabs with mushrooms, <a href="#STUFFED_CRABS_142">142</a>.</li> + <li>Soft-shell crabs, <a href="#SOFT-SHELL_CRABS_142">142</a>.</li> + <li>Oyster-crabs, <a href="#OYSTER-CRABS_143">143</a>.</li> + <li>Crabs St. Laurent (chafing-dish), <a href="#CRABS_ST_LAURENT_143">143</a>.</li> + <li>Crab stew, <a href="#CRAB_STEW_144">144</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h3 class="indexchap"><a href="#Chapter_IV">CHAPTER IV.</a></h3> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#Chapter_IV"><i>Meats.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>General remarks, <a href="#Chapter_IV">145</a>.</li> + <li>Slow cooking, <a href="#Slow_cooking_145">145</a>.</li> + <li>Juices, <a href="#Juices_145">145</a>.</li> + <li>Degree of cooking, <a href="#Degree_of_cooking_145">145</a>.</li> + <li>Cleaning, <a href="#Cleaning_145">145</a>.</li> + <li>Seasoning, <a href="#Seasoning_145">145</a>.</li> + <li>Piercing, <a href="#piercing_146">146</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#TO_ROAST_BEEF_146"><i>Beef.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>To roast beef, <a href="#TO_ROAST_BEEF_146">146</a>.</li> + <li>Rolled roast beef, <a href="#Rolled_roast_beef_146">146</a>.</li> + <li>Yorkshire pudding, <a href="#YORKSHIRE_PUDDING_147">147</a>.</li> + <li>Round of beef, <a href="#ROUND_OF_BEEF_147">147</a>.</li> + <li>Braised beef, <a href="#BRAISED_BEEF_147">147</a>.</li> + <li>À la mode, <a href="#BEEF_A_LA_MODE_148">148</a>.</li> + <li>Bouilli, <a href="#BOUILLI_149">149</a>.</li> + <li>Fillet of beef, <a href="#FILLET_OF_BEEF_149">149</a>.</li> + <li>How to buy a fillet, <a href="#HOW_TO_BUY_A_FILLET_150">150</a>.</li> + <li>Cold roast beef, <a href="#COLD_ROAST_BEEF_151">151</a>.</li> + <li>Scalloped meat, <a href="#SCALLOPED_MEAT_151">151</a>.</li> + <li>Hamburg steaks, <a href="#HAMBURG_STEAKS_151">151</a>.</li> + <li>Beef pie, <a href="#BEEF_PIE_152">152</a>.</li> + <li>Warmed-over beef (chafing-dish), <a href="#WARMED-OVER_BEEF_152">152</a>.</li> + <li>Inside flank, <a href="#INSIDE_FLANK_153">153</a>.</li> + <li>Ragout of beef, <a href="#RAGOUT_OF_BEEF_153">153</a>.</li> + <li>Beefsteaks, <a href="#BEEFSTEAK_155">155</a>.</li> + <li>To broil a beefsteak, <a href="#TO_BROIL_A_BEEFSTEAK_156">156</a>.</li> + <li>Chateaubriand, <a href="#CHATEAUBRIAND_157">157</a>.</li> + <li>Mignon fillets, <a href="#MIGNON_FILLETS_157">157</a>.</li> + <li>Corned beef, <a href="#CORNED_BEEF_157">157</a>.</li> + <li>Corned beef hash, <a href="#CORNED_BEEF_HASH_158">158</a>.</li> + <li>Hash, <a href="#HASH_158">158</a>.</li> + <li>Brown hash, <a href="#BROWN_HASH_159">159</a>.</li> + <li>Marrow bones, <a href="#MARROW-BONES_159">159</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#MUTTON_160"><i>Mutton.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Remarks about mutton, <a href="#The_cuts_and_cooking_of_Mutton_160">160</a>.</li> + <li>Roast leg of mutton, <a href="#ROAST_LEG_OF_MUTTON_162">162</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Loin of mutton, <a href="#ROAST_LOIN_OF_MUTTON_162">162</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Saddle of mutton, <a href="#ROAST_SADDLE_OF_MUTTON_162">162</a>.</li> + <li>Rolled loin of mutton, <a href="#ROLLED_LOIN_162">162</a>.</li> + <li>Shoulder of mutton stuffed, <a href="#SHOULDER_OF_MUTTON_STUFFED_163">163</a>.</li> + <li>Boiled mutton, <a href="#BOILED_MUTTON_163">163</a>.</li> + <li>Caper sauce, <a href="#CAPER_SAUCE_164">164</a>.</li> + <li>Ragout of mutton or lamb, <a href="#RAGOUT_OF_MUTTON_OR_LAMB_164">164</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">of Cold boiled mutton, <a href="#RAGOUT_OF_COLD_BOILED_MUTTON_165">165</a>.</li> + <li>Irish stew, <a href="#IRISH_STEW_165">165</a>.</li> + <li>Mutton chops, <a href="#MUTTON_CHOPS_165">165</a>.</li> + <li>Chops in paper cases, <a href="#CHOPS_IN_PAPER_CASES_166">166</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">à la Maintenon, <a href="#CHOPS_A_LA_MAINTENON_167">167</a>.</li> + <li>Spring lamb, <a href="#SPRING_LAMB_167">167</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#VEAL_168"><i>Veal.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Remarks about veal, <a href="#VEAL_168">168</a>.</li> + <li>To roast fillet of veal, <a href="#ROAST_FILLET_OF_VEAL_168">168</a>.</li> + <li>Stuffed shoulder of veal, <a href="#STUFFED_SHOULDER_OF_VEAL_168">168</a>.</li> + <li>Fricandeau of veal, <a href="#FRICANDEAU_OF_VEAL_169">169</a>.</li> + <li>Veal cutlets, <a href="#VEAL_CUTLETS_169">169</a>.</li> + <li>A plain <a name="corr90" id="corr90"></a>pot-pie, <a href="#A_PLAIN_POT-PIE_169">169</a>.</li> + <li>Dumplings with baking-powder, <a href="#DUMPLINGS_WITH_BAKING_POWDER_170">170</a>.</li> + <li>Dumplings with suet, <a name="corr91" id="corr91"></a><a href="#DUMPLINGS_WITH_SUET_170">170</a>.</li> + <li>Jellied veal, <a href="#JELLIED_VEAL_171">171</a>.</li> + <li>Veal loaf, <a href="#VEAL_LOAF_171">171</a>.</li> + <li>Veal scallop, <a name="corr92" id="corr92"></a><a href="#VEAL_SCALLOP_172">172</a>.</li> + <li>Liver and bacon, <a href="#LIVER_AND_BACON_172">172</a>.</li> + <li>Broiled liver, <a href="#BROILED_LIVER_172">172</a>.</li> + <li>Braised liver, <a href="#BRAISED_LIVER_172">172</a>.</li> + <li>Stewed kidneys, <a href="#STEWED_KIDNEYS_173">173</a>.</li> + <li>Tripe, <a href="#TRIPE_173">173</a>.</li> + <li>Calf’s heart, <a href="#CALFS_HEART_174">174</a>.</li> + <li>Beef’s tongue, <a href="#BEEFS_TONGUE_174">174</a>.</li> + <li>Hot sliced tongue, <a href="#HOT_SLICED_TONGUE_174">174</a>.</li> + <li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_579" id="Page_579">[579]</a></span>Cold tongue, <a href="#COLD_TONGUE_175">175</a>.</li> + <li>Jellied tongue, <a href="#JELLIED_TONGUE_175">175</a>.</li> + <li>Boiled calf’s head, <a href="#BOILED_CALFS_HEAD_175">175</a>.</li> + <li>Calf’s head with vinaigrette sauce, <a href="#CALFS_HEAD_WITH_VINAIGRETTE_176">176</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#PORK_176"><i>Pork.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Roast pork, <a href="#ROAST_PORK_176">176</a>.</li> + <li>Fried apples, <a href="#FRIED_APPLES_176">176</a>.</li> + <li>Pork Chops, <a href="#PORK_CHOPS_177">177</a>.</li> + <li>Boiled ham, <a href="#BOILED_HAM_177">177</a>.</li> + <li>Baked ham, <a href="#BAKED_HAM_177">177</a>.</li> + <li>Broiled ham and eggs, <a href="#BROILED_HAM_AND_EGGS_178">178</a>.</li> + <li>Ham and eggs à l’aurore, <a href="#HAM_AND_EGGS_A_LAURORE_178">178</a>.</li> + <li>Bacon, <a href="#BACON_178">178</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h3 class="indexchap"><a href="#Chapter_V">CHAPTER V.</a></h3> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#Chapter_V"><i>Poultry and Game.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Chickens, <a href="#CHICKENS_179">179</a>.</li> + <li>To judge of chickens, <a href="#To_judge_the_age_of_a_chicken_179">179</a>.</li> + <li>To clean and draw poultry, <a href="#TO_CLEAN_AND_DRAW_POULTRY_180">180</a>.</li> + <li>To bone a fowl, <a href="#TO_BONE_A_FOWL_181">181</a>.</li> + <li>Roasted boned chicken, <a href="#ROASTED_BONED_CHICKEN_182">182</a>.</li> + <li>Braised boned chicken, <a href="#BRAISED_BONED_CHICKEN_182">182</a>.</li> + <li>Jellied boned chicken, <a href="#JELLIED_BONED_CHICKEN_182">182</a>.</li> + <li>Forcemeat or stuffing for boned fowls, <a href="#FORCEMEAT_183">183</a>.</li> + <li>To truss a fowl, <a href="#TO_TRUSS_A_FOWL_183">183</a>.</li> + <li>Roasted chicken, <a href="#ROASTED_CHICKEN_184">184</a>.</li> + <li>Stuffing for fowls, <a href="#STUFFING_FOR_FOWLS_184">184</a>.</li> + <li>Chestnut stuffing, <a href="#CHESTNUT_STUFFING_185">185</a>.</li> + <li>Giblet sauce, <a href="#GIBLET_SAUCE_185">185</a>.</li> + <li>Boiled chicken, <a href="#BOILED_CHICKEN_185">185</a>.</li> + <li>Braised chicken, <a href="#BRAISED_CHICKEN_186">186</a>.</li> + <li>Broiled chicken, <a href="#BROILED_CHICKEN_186">186</a>.</li> + <li>Fricasseed chicken, white and brown, <a href="#FRICASSEE_186">186</a>.</li> + <li>Fried chicken, <a href="#FRIED_CHICKEN_187">187</a>.</li> + <li>Chicken fritters, <a href="#CHICKEN_FRITTERS_187">187</a>.</li> + <li>Stuffed chicken or turkey legs, <a href="#STUFFED_CHICKEN_OR_TURKEY_LEGS_188">188</a>.</li> + <li>Grilled bones, <a href="#GRILLED_BONES_188">188</a>.</li> + <li>Chicken à la Vienne, <a href="#CHICKEN_A_LA_VIENNE_189">189</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Baltimore style, <a href="#CHICKEN_BALTIMORE_STYLE_189">189</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Imperial, <a href="#CHICKEN_IMPERIAL_189">189</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Breasts with poulette sauce, <a href="#CHICKEN_BREASTS_WITH_POULETTE_SAUCE_190">190</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chartreuse, <a href="#CHICKEN_CHARTREUSE_190">190</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Soufflé, <a href="#CHICKEN_SOUFFLE_190">190</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Loaf, <a href="#CHICKEN_LOAF_191">191</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chaudfroid, <a href="#CHICKEN_CHAUDFROID_191">191</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Mayonnaise, <a href="#CHICKEN_MAYONNAISE_192">192</a>.</li> + <li>English chicken pie (cold), <a href="#ENGLISH_CHICKEN_PIE_192">192</a>.</li> + <li>Turkey, <a href="#TURKEY_193">193</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Galantine or boned turkey, <a href="#TURKEY_GALANTINE_193">193</a>.</li> + <li>Roast goose, <a href="#ROAST_GOOSE_194">194</a>.</li> + <li>Tame ducks, <a href="#TAME_DUCKS_195">195</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#GAME_196"><i>Game.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Canvasbacks and redhead ducks, <a href="#CANVASBACKS_196">196</a>.</li> + <li>Salmi of duck or game, <a href="#SALMI_OF_DUCK_196">196</a>.</li> + <li>Potted pigeons, <a href="#POTTED_PIGEONS_197">197</a>.</li> + <li>Roasted pigeons or squabs, <a href="#ROAST_PIGEONS_197">197</a>.</li> + <li>Prairie chicken or grouse, roasted, <a href="#PRAIRIE-CHICKEN_197">197</a>.</li> + <li>Quails roasted, <a href="#QUAILS_ROASTED_198">198</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Broiled, <a href="#QUAILS_BROILED_198">198</a>.</li> + <li>Snipe and woodcock, roasted, <a href="#SNIPE_AND_WOODCOCK_198">198</a>.</li> + <li>Partridges, roasted and broiled, <a href="#ROASTED_AND_BROILED_PARTRIDGE_199">199</a>.</li> + <li>Venison, <a href="#VENISON_199">199</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Steak, <a href="#VENISON_STEAK_199">199</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h3 class="indexchap"><a href="#Chapter_VI">CHAPTER VI.</a></h3> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#Chapter_VI"><i>Vegetables.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>General directions, <a href="#General_Directions_200">200</a>.</li> + <li>Potatoes, boiled, <a href="#BOILED_POTATOES_201">201</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Mashed, <a href="#MASHED_POTATOES_201">201</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cakes, <a href="#POTATO_CAKES_201">201</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Rice, <a href="#POTATO_RICE_202">202</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Soufflé, <a href="#POTATO_SOUFFLE_202">202</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Roses, <a href="#POTATO_ROSES_202">202</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Croquettes, <a href="#POTATO_CROQUETTES_202">202</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Balls, <a href="#POTATO_BALLS_203">203</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Omelet, <a href="#POTATO_OMELET_203">203</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Creamed, <a href="#CREAMED_POTATOES_203">203</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Broiled, <a href="#BROILED_POTATOES_204">204</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Baked, <a href="#BAKED_POTATOES_204">204</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Stuffed, <a href="#STUFFED_POTATOES_204">204</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Baked with meat, <a href="#POTATOES_BAKED_WITH_MEAT_204">204</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Lyonnaise, <a href="#LYONNAISE_POTATOES_204">204</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Fried, <a href="#FRIED_POTATOES_205">205</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Balls, fried, and straws, <a href="#FRIED_POTATO_BALLS_205">205</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Saratoga, <a href="#SARATOGA_POTATOES_205">205</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Puffed, <a href="#PUFFED_OR_SOUFFLE_POTATOES_206">206</a>.</li> + <li>Sweet potatoes boiled, <a href="#SWEET_POTATOES_206">206</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad4">“</span> Baked, <a href="#BAKED_SWEET_POTATOES_206">206</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad4">“</span> Browned, <a href="#BROWNED_SWEET_POTATOES_206">206</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad4">“</span> Croquettes, <a href="#SWEET_POTATO_CROQUETTES_207">207</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad4">“</span> Purée, <a href="#SWEET_POTATO_PUREE_207">207</a>.</li> + <li>Tomatoes, stewed, <a href="#STEWED_TOMATOES_207">207</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Scalloped, <a href="#SCALLOPED_TOMATOES_207">207</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Stuffed, <a href="#STUFFED_TOMATOES_207">207</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Roasted, <a href="#ROASTED_TOMATOES_208">208</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Broiled, <a href="#BROILED_TOMATOES_208">208</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Farci, <a href="#TOMATO_FARCI_208">208</a>.</li> + <li>Green peas, <a href="#GREEN_PEAS_209">209</a>.</li> + <li>Purée of peas, <a href="#PUREE_OF_PEAS_209">209</a>.</li> + <li>String beans, <a href="#STRING_BEANS_209">209</a>.</li> + <li>Flageolets, <a href="#FLAGEOLETS_210">210</a>.</li> + <li>Lima beans, <a href="#LIMA_BEANS_210">210</a>.</li> + <li>Spinach, <a href="#SPINACH_210">210</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Soufflé, <a href="#SPINACH_SOUFFLE_211">211</a>.</li> + <li>Chartreuse of spinach or cabbage, <a href="#CHARTREUSE_OF_SPINACH_211">211</a>.</li> + <li>Asparagus, <a href="#ASPARAGUS_211">211</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Tips, <a href="#ASPARAGUS_TIPS_212">212</a>.</li> + <li>Cabbage, <a href="#CABBAGE_212">212</a>.</li> + <li>Boiled cabbage, <a href="#BOILED_CABBAGE_212">212</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">with cheese, <a href="#CABBAGE_WITH_CHEESE_213">213</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Swedish, <a href="#SWEDISH_CABBAGE_213">213</a>.</li> + <li>Hot slaw, <a href="#HOT_SLAW_214">214</a>.</li> + <li>Brussels sprouts, <a href="#BRUSSELS_SPROUTS_214">214</a>.</li> + <li>Cauliflower, <a href="#CAULIFLOWER_214">214</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">au gratin, <a href="#CAULIFLOWER_AU_GRATIN_215">215</a>.</li> + <li>Egg-plant, <a href="#EGG-PLANT_215">215</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Stuffed, <a href="#STUFFED_EGG-PLANT_215">215</a>.</li> + <li>Peppers, stuffed, <a href="#STUFFED_PEPPERS_215">215</a>.</li> + <li>Chestnut purée, <a href="#CHESTNUT_PUREE_215">215</a>.</li> + <li>Celery, stewed, <a href="#CELERY_STEWED_216">216</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">au jus, <a href="#CELERY_AU_JUS_216">216</a>.</li> + <li>Carrots and turnips, <a href="#CARROTS_AND_TURNIPS_216">216</a>.</li> + <li>Macédoine of vegetables, <a href="#MACEDOINE_OF_VEGETABLES_216">216</a>.</li> + <li>Dried beans, <a href="#DRIED_BEANS_217">217</a>.</li> + <li>Boiled “ <a href="#BOILED_DRIED_BEANS_217">217</a>.</li> + <li>Baked “ <a href="#BAKED_DRIED_BEANS_217">217</a>.</li> + <li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_580" id="Page_580">[580]</a></span>Purée of beans, <a href="#PUREE_DRIED_BEANS_217">217</a>.</li> + <li>Croquettes of Beans, <a href="#CROQUETTES_DRIED_BEANS_217">217</a>.</li> + <li>Beets, <a href="#BEETS_217">217</a>.</li> + <li>Summer squash, <a href="#SUMMER_SQUASH_218">218</a>.</li> + <li>Parsnips, <a href="#PARSNIPS_218">218</a>.</li> + <li>Cucumbers, boiled, <a href="#CUCUMBERS_218">218</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Stuffed, <a href="#Stuffed_218">218</a>.</li> + <li>Lettuce stewed, <a href="#LETTUCE_STEWED_219">219</a>.</li> + <li>Onions, <a href="#ONIONS_219">219</a>.</li> + <li>Spanish onions, stuffed, <a href="#STUFFED_SPANISH_ONIONS_219">219</a>.</li> + <li>Corn on the ear, <a href="#CORN_ON_THE_EAR_220">220</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Mock oysters, <a href="#CORN_MOCK_OYSTERS_220">220</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Canned, <a href="#CANNED_CORN_220">220</a>.</li> + <li>Succotash, <a href="#SUCCOTASH_220">220</a>.</li> + <li>Artichokes, <a href="#ARTICHOKES_220">220</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Bottoms, <a href="#ARTICHOKE_BOTTOMS_221">221</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h3 class="indexchap"><a href="#Chapter_VII">CHAPTER VII.</a></h3> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#RECEIPTS_FOR_MACARONI_222"><i>Farinaceous Foods used as Vegetables—Receipts for Macaroni—Cereals.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>To boil rice, <a href="#TO_BOIL_RICE_222">222</a>.</li> + <li>Rice and tomatoes, <a href="#RICE_AND_TOMATO_223">223</a>.</li> + <li>Parched rice, <a href="#PARCHED_RICE_223">223</a>.</li> + <li>Farina balls, <a href="#FARINA_BALLS_223">223</a>.</li> + <li>Hominy fried, <a href="#FRIED_HOMINY_224">224</a>.</li> + <li>Cornmeal mush fried, <a href="#FRIED_CORN_MUSH_224">224</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#MACARONI_224"><i>Receipts for Macaroni.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Macaroni, <a href="#MACARONI_224">224</a>.</li> + <li>Spaghetti, <a href="#SPAGHETTI_225">225</a>.</li> + <li>Baked macaroni with cheese, <a href="#BAKED_MACARONI_WITH_CHEESE_225">225</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad4">“</span> au gratin, <a href="#MACARONI_AU_GRATIN_225">225</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad4">“</span> with tomato or other sauces, <a href="#MACARONI_WITH_TOMATO_225">225</a>.</li> + <li>Baked macaroni with minced meat, <a href="#MACARONI_WITH_MINCED_MEAT_226">226</a>.</li> + <li>Receipt for macaroni from Mrs. Maspero, <a href="#RECEIPT_FOR_MACARONI_226">226</a>.</li> + <li>Sauce for macaroni, for rissotto, and for polenta, <a href="#SAUCE_FOR_MACARONI_226">226</a>.</li> + <li>Sauce for macaroni No. 2, <a href="#SAUCE_FOR_MACARONI_No_2_226">226</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad1">“</span> “ “ 3, <a href="#SAUCE_FOR_MACARONI_No_3_227">227</a>.</li> + <li>Polenta, <a href="#POLENTA_227">227</a>.</li> + <li>Risotto, <a href="#RISSOTTO_227">227</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#CEREALS_227"><i>Cereals.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Oatmeal porridge, <a href="#OATMEAL_PORRIDGE_227">227</a>.</li> + <li>Cracked wheat, <a href="#CRACKED_WHEAT_228">228</a>.</li> + <li>Cornmeal mush, <a href="#CORNMEAL_MUSH_228">228</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h3 class="indexchap"><a href="#Chapter_VIII">CHAPTER VIII.</a></h3> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#Chapter_VIII"><i>A Group of Receipts from a New England Kitchen.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Split-pea soup, <a href="#SPLIT_PEA_SOUP_229">229</a>.</li> + <li>Black bean soup, <a href="#BLACK_BEAN_SOUP_229">229</a>.</li> + <li>Clam soup, <a href="#CLAM_SOUP_230">230</a>.</li> + <li>Clam chowder, <a href="#CLAM_CHOWDER_230">230</a>.</li> + <li>Fish chowder, <a href="#FISH_CHOWDER_230">230</a>.</li> + <li>Browned oysters, <a href="#BROWNED_OYSTERS_231">231</a>.</li> + <li>Fish and oysters, <a href="#FISH_AND_OYSTERS_231">231</a>.</li> + <li>Scalloped oysters, <a href="#SCALLOPED_OYSTERS_231">231</a>.</li> + <li>Pickled oysters, <a href="#PICKLED_OYSTERS_232">232</a>.</li> + <li>Fricasseed oysters, <a href="#FRICASSEED_OYSTERS_232">232</a>.</li> + <li>Stewed lobster, <a href="#STEWED_LOBSTER_232">232</a>.</li> + <li><a name="corr93" id="corr93"></a>Fish balls, <a href="#FISH_BALLS_232">232</a>.</li> + <li>Codfish and cream, <a href="#CODFISH_AND_CREAM_233">233</a>.</li> + <li>Oysters on a chafing-dish, <a href="#OYSTERS_ON_A_CHAFING-DISH_233">233</a>.</li> + <li>Pilau, <a href="#PILAU_233">233</a>.</li> + <li>Spiced shad, <a href="#SPICED_SHAD_233">233</a>.</li> + <li>Pork and beans, <a href="#PORK_AND_BEANS_234">234</a>.</li> + <li>A <a name="corr94" id="corr94"></a>réchauffé of cold mutton, <a href="#RECHAUFFE_OF_COLD_MUTTON_234">234</a>.</li> + <li>Corned beef, <a href="#CORNED_BEEF_234">234</a>.</li> + <li>A beefsteak pie, <a href="#BEEFSTEAK_PIE_235">235</a>.</li> + <li>Easy chicken salad, <a href="#EASY_CHICKEN_SALAD_235">235</a>.</li> + <li>Cream dressing, <a href="#CREAM_DRESSING_235">235</a>.</li> + <li>Macaroni à l’albi, <a href="#MACARONI_A_LALBI_236">236</a>.</li> + <li>Corn pudding, <a href="#CORN_PUDDING_236">236</a>.</li> + <li>Thin Indian bread, <a href="#THIN_INDIAN_BREAD_236">236</a>.</li> + <li>Graham gems, <a href="#GRAHAM_GEMS_237">237</a>.</li> + <li>Colonial hoe-cakes, <a href="#COLONIAL_HOE-CAKES_237">237</a>.</li> + <li>Rhode Island johnny-cake, <a href="#RHODE_ISLAND_JOHNNY-CAKE_237">237</a>.</li> + <li>Boston brown bread, <a href="#BOSTON_BROWN_BREAD_237">237</a>.</li> + <li>Dabs, <a href="#DABS_238">238</a>.</li> + <li>Cream oatmeal, <a href="#CREAM_OATMEAL_238">238</a>.</li> + <li>Zephyrs, <a href="#ZEPHYRS_238">238</a>.</li> + <li>Squash pies, <a href="#SQUASH_PIES_238">238</a>.</li> + <li>Pumpkin pies, <a href="#PUMPKIN_PIES_239">239</a>.</li> + <li>A rule for simple pie-crust, <a href="#EASY_PIE-CRUST_239">239</a>.</li> + <li>A boiled Indian pudding, <a name="corr95" id="corr95"></a><a href="#BOILED_INDIAN_PUDDING_240">240</a>.</li> + <li>A baked Indian pudding, <a name="corr96" id="corr96"></a><a href="#BAKED_INDIAN_PUDDING_240">240</a>.</li> + <li>Orange Indian pudding, <a href="#ORANGE_INDIAN_PUDDING_241">241</a>.</li> + <li>Blueberry pudding, <a href="#BLUEBERRY_PUDDING_241">241</a>.</li> + <li>A peach pudding, <a href="#PEACH_PUDDING_241">241</a>.</li> + <li>Cherry bread, <a href="#CHERRY_BREAD_241">241</a>.</li> + <li>Lemon rice pudding, <a href="#LEMON_RICE_PUDDING_242">242</a>.</li> + <li>Bermuda pudding, <a href="#BERMUDA_PUDDING_242">242</a>.</li> + <li>Rice and marmalade pudding, <a href="#RICE_AND_ORANGE-MARMALADE_PUDDING_242">242</a>.</li> + <li>Molasses pie, <a href="#MOLASSES_PIE_242">242</a>.</li> + <li>Prune jelly with almonds, <a href="#PRUNE_JELLY_243">243</a>.</li> + <li>Clarified apples, <a href="#CLARIFIED_APPLES_243">243</a>.</li> + <li>Lemon ice, <a href="#LEMON_ICE_243">243</a>.</li> + <li>Apple sauce, <a href="#APPLE_SAUCE_243">243</a>.</li> + <li>Stewed pears, <a href="#STEWED_PEARS_244">244</a>.</li> + <li>Cranberry jelly, <a href="#CRANBERRY_JELLY_244">244</a>.</li> + <li>Hartford election cake, <a href="#HARTFORD_ELECTION_CAKE_244">244</a>.</li> + <li>Instantaneous frosting, <a name="corr97" id="corr97"></a><a href="#INSTANTANEOUS_FROSTING_245">245</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h3 class="indexchap"><a href="#Chapter_IX">CHAPTER IX.</a></h3> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#SOUTHERN_WAY_OF_COOKING_RICE_248"><i>Distinctively Southern Dishes.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>General remarks, <a href="#DISTINCTIVELY_SOUTHERN_DISHES_246">246</a>.</li> + <li>Pone, <a href="#PONE_246">246</a>.</li> + <li>Hoe-cake No. 1, <a href="#HOE-CAKE_No_1_246">246</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">No. 2, <a href="#HOE-CAKE_No_2_247">247</a>.</li> + <li>Kentucky corn dodgers, <a href="#KENTUCKY_CORN_DODGERS_247">247</a>.</li> + <li>Maryland beaten biscuits, <a href="#MARYLAND_BEATEN_BISCUIT_247">247</a>.</li> + <li>Soft corn bread, <a href="#SOFT_CORN-BREAD_247">247</a>.</li> + <li>Southern way of cooking rice, <a href="#SOUTHERN_WAY_OF_COOKING_RICE_248">248</a>.</li> + <li>Chicken gumbo, <a href="#CHICKEN_GUMBO_249">249</a>.</li> + <li>Gumbo filé (New Orleans), <a href="#GUMBO_FILE_248">248</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#VERY_INEXPENSIVE_DISHES_249"><i>Very Inexpensive Dishes.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Very inexpensive dinners, <a href="#VERY_INEXPENSIVE_DISHES_249">249</a>.</li> + <li>To prepare a shin of beef, <a href="#TO_PREPARE_SHIN_OF_BEEF_250">250</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad0-5">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span> another way, <a href="#ANOTHER_WAY_250">250</a>.</li> + <li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_581" id="Page_581">[581]</a></span>Beefsteak pudding, <a href="#BEEFSTEAK_PUDDING_251">251</a>.</li> + <li>Menus for inexpensive dinners, <a href="#Economical_living_menu_252">252</a>.</li> + <li>Scotch broth, <a href="#SCOTCH_BROTH_252">252</a>.</li> + <li>Tapioca and apples, <a href="#Tapioca_and_Apples_252">252</a>.</li> + <li>Veal with white sauce, <a href="#VEAL_WITH_WHITE_SAUCE_253">253</a>.</li> + <li>Purified cabbage, <a href="#Purified_Cabbage_253">253</a>.</li> + <li>Chops cut from the shoulder, <a href="#Chops_cut_from_the_shoulder_253">253</a>.</li> + <li>Apple dumplings, <a href="#APPLE_DUMPLINGS_253">253</a>.</li> + <li>Curry, <a href="#Curry_254">254</a>.</li> + <li>Madras curry, <a href="#Madras_curry_254">254</a>.</li> + <li>Liver sauté, <a href="#LIVER_SAUTE_255">255</a>.</li> + <li>Breast of mutton, <a href="#Breast_of_mutton_255">255</a>.</li> + <li>Tomato soup, <a href="#Tomato_255">255</a>.</li> + <li>Carrot <span class="pad1">“</span> <a href="#Carrot_256">256</a>.</li> + <li>Potato <span class="pad1">“</span> <a href="#Potato_256">256</a>.</li> + <li>Bean <span class="pad1-5">“</span> <a href="#Bean_256">256</a>.</li> + <li>Celery <span class="pad1">“</span> <a href="#Celery_256">256</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#PART_III"><i>Miscellaneous receipts.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Sterilized milk, <a href="#STERILIZED_MILK_257">257</a>.</li> + <li>Devonshire cream, No. 1, <a href="#DEVONSHIRE_CREAM_No_1_258">258</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad2">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span> No. 2, <a href="#DEVONSHIRE_CREAM_No_2_258">258</a>.</li> + <li>To make fresh butter, <a href="#FRESH_BUTTER_258">258</a>.</li> + <li>To make white hard soap, <a href="#TO_MAKE_WHITE_HARD_SOAP_259">259</a>.</li> + <li>Floor polish, <a href="#FLOOR_POLISH_260">260</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h3 class="indexchap"><a href="#Chapter_X">CHAPTER X.</a></h3> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#Chapter_X"><i>Eggs.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>To judge of freshness, and how to preserve eggs, <a href="#To_judge_of_freshness_261">261</a>.</li> + <li>Boiled eggs, <a href="#BOILED_EGGS_262">262</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad1">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span> 1, <a href="#Boiled_eggs_No_1_262">262</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad1">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span> 2, <a href="#Boiled_eggs_No_2_262">262</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad1">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span> 3, <a href="#Boiled_eggs_No_3_262">262</a>.</li> + <li>Poached eggs, No. 1, <a href="#POACHED_EGGS_No_1_263">263</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad1-5">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> No. 2, French style, <a href="#FRENCH_POACHED_EGGS_No_2_263">263</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad1-5">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> No. 3, <a href="#POACHED_EGG_No_3_263">263</a>.</li> + <li>Fried “ <a href="#FRIED_EGGS_264">264</a>.</li> + <li>Scrambled, <a href="#SCRAMBLED_EGGS_264">264</a>.</li> + <li>Plain French omelet, <a href="#PLAIN_FRENCH_OMELET_264">264</a>.</li> + <li>Variations of the, <a href="#VARIATIONS_OF_THE_OMELET_265">265</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">No. 1, <a href="#VARIATIONS_OF_THE_OMELET_No_1_265">265</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">No. 2, <a href="#VARIATIONS_OF_THE_OMELET_No_2_265">265</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">No. 3, green, <a href="#VARIATIONS_OF_THE_OMELET_No_3_266">266</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">No. 4, aux fines herbes, <a href="#VARIATIONS_OF_THE_OMELET_No_4_266">266</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">No. 5, with peas or tomatoes, <a href="#VARIATIONS_OF_THE_OMELET_No_5_266">266</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">No. 6, with ham, <a href="#VARIATIONS_OF_THE_OMELET_No_6_266">266</a>.</li> + <li>Beaten omelet, <a href="#BEATEN_OMELET_266">266</a>.</li> + <li>Shirred eggs, <a href="#SHIRRED_EGGS_266">266</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">sur le plat, <a href="#sur_le_plat_266">266</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">au miroir, <a href="#au_miroir_267">266</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">cocotte, <a href="#cocotte_267">266</a>.</li> + <li>Molded eggs, <a href="#MOLDED_EGGS_267">267</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">à la polignac, <a href="#A_LA_POLIGNAC_267">267</a>.</li> + <li>Ham and eggs, <a href="#MOLDED_HAM_AND_EGGS_268">268</a>.</li> + <li>Poached eggs on anchovy toast (supper dish), <a href="#POACHED_EGGS_ON_ANCHOVY_TOAST_268">268</a>.</li> + <li>Poached eggs on anchovy toast (entrée for luncheon), <a href="#POACHED_EGGS_WITH_ANCHOVY_268">268</a>.</li> + <li>Poached egg with tomato, <a href="#POACHED_EGG_WITH_TOMATO_268">268</a>.</li> + <li>Eggs à la villeroi (entrée for luncheon), <a href="#EGGS_A_LA_VILLEROI_269">269</a>.</li> + <li>Egg à la Bourguinonne, <a href="#EGGS_A_LA_BOURGUINONNE_270">270</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad0-5">“</span> à l’aurore, <a href="#EGGS_A_LAURORE_270">270</a>.</li> + <li>Golden cream toast, <a href="#GOLDEN_CREAM_TOAST_270">270</a>.</li> + <li>Curried eggs, <a href="#CURRIED_EGGS_271">271</a>.</li> + <li>Stuffed <span class="pad0-5">“</span> No. 1, <a href="#STUFFED_EGGS_No_1_271">271</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad1">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> 2, <a href="#STUFFED_EGGS_No_2_272">272</a>.</li> + <li>Egg croquettes, <a href="#EGG_CROQUETTES_272">272</a>.</li> + <li>Other ways of serving hard-boiled eggs, <a href="#OTHER_WAYS_OF_SERVING_HARD-BOILED_EGGS_272">272</a>.</li> + <li>Tomatoes stuffed with eggs, <a href="#TOMATOES_STUFFED_WITH_EGGS_272">272</a>.</li> + <li><table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="margin-left: 0" summary=""> + <tr><td style="padding: 0;">Œufs à la reine, <br />Eggs Livingston,</td><td style="padding: 0;"><span class="double">}</span></td><td style="vertical-align: middle; padding: 0;">Downtown club, N.Y., <a href="#EGGS_A_LA_REINE_273">273</a>.</td></tr></table> + </li> + <li>Eggs au beurre noir, <a href="#EGGS_AU_BEURRE_NOIR_273">273</a>.</li> + <li>Spanish omelet, <a href="#SPANISH_OMELET_274">274</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h3 class="indexchap"><a href="#Chapter_XI">CHAPTER XI.</a></h3> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#Chapter_XI"><i>Sauces.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>General directions, <a href="#General_directions_275">275</a>.</li> + <li>Glaze, <a href="#GLAZE_277">277</a>.</li> + <li>Roux for sauces, <a href="#ROUX_FOR_SAUCES_277">277</a>.</li> + <li>White sauce, <a href="#WHITE_SAUCE_277">277</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad1">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> for fish, <a href="#WHITE_SAUCE_FOR_FISH_278">278</a>.</li> + <li>Egg <span class="pad1-5left">“</span> <span class="pad0-5left"><a href="#EGG_SAUCE_FOR_BOILED_FISH_278">278</a>.</span></li> + <li>Caper <span class="pad0-5left">“</span> <span class="pad0-5left"><a href="#CAPER_SAUCE_279">279</a>.</span></li> + <li>Oyster <span class="pad0-5left">“</span> <span class="pad0-5left"><a href="#OYSTER_SAUCE_279">279</a>.</span></li> + <li>Celery <span class="pad0-5left">“</span> <span class="pad0-5left"><a href="#CELERY_SAUCE_279">279</a>.</span></li> + <li>Lobster “ <span class="pad0-5left"><a href="#LOBSTER_SAUCE_279">279</a>.</span></li> + <li>Velouté and allemande, <a href="#VELOUTE_AND_ALLEMANDE_SAUCES_279">279</a>.</li> + <li>Béchamel, <a href="#BECHAMEL_SAUCE_279">279</a>.</li> + <li>Poulette, <a href="#POULETTE_SAUCE_280">280</a>.</li> + <li>Villeroi, <a href="#VILLEROI_280">280</a>.</li> + <li>Hollandaise, <a href="#HOLLANDAISE_281">281</a>.</li> + <li>Chaudfroid, <a href="#CHAUDFROID_SAUCE_281">281</a>.</li> + <li>Brown sauce, <a href="#BROWN_SAUCE_282">282</a>.</li> + <li>Espagnole, <a href="#ESPAGNOLE_282">282</a>.</li> + <li>Champagne sauce, <a href="#CHAMPAGNE_SAUCE_283">283</a>.</li> + <li>Piquante <span class="pad2left">“</span> <span class="pad0-5left"><a href="#PIQUANTE_SAUCE_283">283</a>.</span></li> + <li>Soubise <span class="pad2left">“</span> <span class="pad0-5left"><a href="#SOUBISE_SAUCE_284">284</a>.</span></li> + <li>Horseradish <span class="pad0-5left">“</span> <span class="pad0-5left"><a href="#HORSERADISH_SAUCE_284">284</a>.</span></li> + <li>Mustard <span class="pad2left">“</span> <span class="pad0-5left"><a href="#MUSTARD_SAUCE_284">284</a>.</span></li> + <li>Curry <span class="pad3left">“</span> <span class="pad0-5left"><a href="#CURRY_SAUCE_284">284</a>.</span></li> + <li>Olive <span class="pad3left">“</span> <span class="pad0-5left"><a href="#OLIVE_SAUCE_285">285</a>.</span></li> + <li>Tomato <span class="pad2left">“</span> <span class="pad0-5left"><a href="#TOMATO_SAUCE_285">285</a>.</span></li> + <li>Mushroom <span class="pad1left">“</span> <span class="pad0-5left"><a href="#MUSHROOM_SAUCE_286">286</a>.</span></li> + <li>Maître d’hôtel, <a href="#MAITRE_DHOTEL_SAUCE_286">286</a>.</li> + <li>Mint sauce, <a href="#MINT_SAUCE_287">287</a>.</li> + <li>Bread sauce, <a href="#BREAD_SAUCE_287">287</a>.</li> + <li>Jelly sauce, <a href="#JELLY_SAUCE_287">287</a>.</li> + <li>Cranberry sauce, <a href="#CRANBERRY_SAUCE_287">287</a>.</li> + <li>Apple, <a href="#APPLE_SAUCE_288">288</a>.</li> + <li>Béarnaise, <a href="#BEARNAISE_288">288</a>.</li> + <li>Mayonnaise, <a href="#MAYONNAISE_288">288</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">White, <a href="#WHITE_MAYONNAISE_289">289</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Green, <a href="#GREEN_MAYONNAISE_289">289</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Red, <a href="#RED_MAYONNAISE_290">290</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Jelly, <a href="#JELLY_MAYONNAISE_290">290</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">With arrowroot, <a href="#MAYONNAISE_WITH_ARROWROOT_290">290</a>.</li> + <li>Tartare, <a href="#TARTARE_290">290</a>.</li> + <li>Agra dolce, <a href="#AGRA_DOLCE_291">291</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h3 class="indexchap"><a href="#Chapter_XII">CHAPTER XII.</a></h3> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#Chapter_XII"><i>Entrées.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Croquettes, general directions for making, <a name="corr98" id="corr98"></a><a href="#CROQUETTES_292">292</a>.</li> + <li>The Enterprise chopper, <a href="#ENTERPRISE_CHOPPER_293">293</a>.</li> + <li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_582" id="Page_582">[582]</a></span>Sauce for croquette mixture, <a href="#SAUCE_FOR_CROQUETTE_MIXTURE_293">293</a>.</li> + <li>To mold croquettes, <a href="#TO_MOLD_CROQUETTES_293">293</a>.</li> + <li>To fry croquettes, <a href="#TO_FRY_CROQUETTES_294">294</a>.</li> + <li>Materials used for croquettes, <a href="#MATERIALS_USED_FOR_CROQUETTES_295">295</a>.</li> + <li>Timbales, <a href="#TIMBALES_296">296</a>.</li> + <li>Truffles, <a href="#TRUFFLES_296">296</a>.</li> + <li>Cream chicken forcemeat, <a href="#CREAM_CHICKEN_FORCEMEAT_297">297</a>.</li> + <li>Cream forcemeat No. 2, <a href="#CREAM_FORCEMEAT_No_2_297">297</a>.</li> + <li>Fish cream forcemeat, <a href="#FISH_CREAM_FORCEMEAT_297">297</a>.</li> + <li>Quenelle forcemeat, <a href="#QUENELLE_FORCEMEAT_298">298</a>.</li> + <li>Bread panada, <a href="#BREAD_PANADA_298">298</a>.</li> + <li>Flour panada, <a href="#FLOUR_PANADA_298">298</a>.</li> + <li>To mold and cook timbales, <a href="#TO_MOLD_AND_COOK_TIMBALES_298">298</a>.</li> + <li>Salpicon, <a href="#SALPICON_299">299</a>.</li> + <li>Fontage cup, <a href="#FONTAGE_CUPS_300">300</a>.</li> + <li>Pain de volaille, <a href="#PAIN_DE_VOLAILLE_300">300</a>.</li> + <li>Quenelles, <a href="#QUENELLES_300">300</a>.</li> + <li>Palmettes, <a href="#PALMETTES_301">301</a>.</li> + <li>Celestines à la Maintenon, <a href="#CELESTINES_A_LA_MAINTENON_301">301</a>.</li> + <li>Boudins Rouennaise, <a href="#BOUDINS_ROUENNAIS_302">302</a>.</li> + <li>Macaroni timbale, <a href="#MACARONI_TIMBALE_302">302</a>.</li> + <li>Honeycomb timbale, <a href="#HONEYCOMB_TIMBALE_302">302</a>.</li> + <li>A simple timbale of halibut, <a href="#SIMPLE_TIMBALE_OF_HALIBUT_303">303</a>.</li> + <li>Pastry timbale, <a href="#PASTRY_TIMBALE_303">303</a>.</li> + <li>Potato and fish timbale, <a href="#POTATO_AND_FISH_TIMBALE_304">304</a>.</li> + <li>Vol-au-vent, <a href="#VOL_AU_VENT_304">304</a>.</li> + <li>Patties, <a href="#PATTIES_305">305</a>.</li> + <li>Rissoles, <a href="#RISSOLES_305">305</a>.</li> + <li>To prepare sweetbreads, <a href="#TO_PREPARE_SWEETBREADS_305">305</a>.</li> + <li>Baked sweetbreads, <a href="#BAKED_SWEETBREADS_306">306</a>.</li> + <li>Braised sweetbreads, <a href="#BRAISED_SWEETBREADS_306">306</a>.</li> + <li>Sautéd sweetbreads, <a href="#SAUTED_SWEETBREADS_306">306</a>.</li> + <li>Fried sweetbreads, <a href="#FRIED_SWEETBREADS_306">306</a>.</li> + <li>Sweetbreads à la poulette, <a href="#SWEETBREADS_A_LA_POULETTE_306">306</a>.</li> + <li>Chaudfroid of sweetbreads, <a href="#CHAUDFROID_OF_SWEETBREADS_306">306</a>.</li> + <li>Calf’s brains, <a href="#CALFS_BRAINS_307">307</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Head à la vinaigrette, <a href="#CALFS_HEAD_A_LA_VINAIGRETTE_307">307</a>.</li> + <li>Marinade of brains, <a href="#MARINADE_OF_BRAINS_307">307</a>.</li> + <li>False terrapin, <a href="#FALSE_TERRAPIN_308">308</a>.</li> + <li>Calf’s head à la poulette, <a href="#CALFS_HEAD_A_LA_POULETTE_308">308</a>.</li> + <li>Oyster cases, <a href="#OYSTER_CASES_308">308</a>.</li> + <li>Liver loaf, or false pâté de foie gras, <a href="#LIVER_LOAF_308">308</a>.</li> + <li>Chicken livers, <a href="#CHICKEN_LIVERS_309">309</a>.</li> + <li>Stuffed mushrooms, <a href="#STUFFED_MUSHROOMS_309">309</a>.</li> + <li>Chicken purée, <a href="#CHICKEN_PUREE_310">310</a>.</li> + <li>Oyster-crabs, <a href="#OYSTER-CRABS_310">310</a>.</li> + <li>Entrée of oyster-crabs, <a href="#ENTREE_OF_OYSTER-CRABS_310">310</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#TERRAPIN_311"><i>Terrapin.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Terrapin, general remarks about, <a href="#TERRAPIN_311">311</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To prepare, <a href="#TO_PREPARE_TERRAPIN_312">312</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Stewed in Maryland style, <a href="#STEWED_TERRAPIN_313">313</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">à la Newburg, <a href="#TERRAPIN_A_LA_NEWBURG_313">313</a>.</li> + <li>Frogs’ legs, fried, <a href="#FRIED_FROGS_LEGS_313">313</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">à la poulette, <a href="#FROGS_LEGS_A_LA_POULETTE_313">313</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#MUSHROOMS_314"><i>Mushrooms.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Remarks about mushrooms, <a href="#MUSHROOMS_314">314</a>.</li> + <li>Cooking mushrooms, <a href="#COOKING_MUSHROOMS_316">316</a>.</li> + <li>The Fairy Ring Champignon (Marasmius Oreades), <a href="#THE_FAIRY_RING_CHAMPIGNON_317">317</a>.</li> + <li>The Agaricus Campestris, <a href="#THE_AGARICUS_CAMPESTRIS_317">317</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Procerus, <a href="#AGARICUS_PROCERUS_318">318</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Russula, <a href="#AGARICUS_RUSSULA_318">318</a>.</li> + <li>Coprinus Comatus, <a href="#COPRINUS_COMATUS_318">318</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Atramentarius, <a href="#COPRINUS_ATRAMENTARIUS_318">318</a>.</li> + <li>The Boleti, <a href="#THE_BOLETI_318">318</a>.</li> + <li>Puff balls, <a href="#PUFF_BALLS_319">319</a>.</li> + <li>Morchellæ Esculentæ, <a href="#MORCHELLAE_ESCULENTAE_319">319</a>.</li> + <li>Hydnum Caput Medusæ, <a href="#HYDNUM_CAPUT_MEDUSAE_319">319</a>.</li> + <li>Clavaria, <a href="#CLAVARIA_319">319</a>.</li> + <li>To dry mushrooms, <a href="#TO_DRY_MUSHROOMS_320">320</a>.</li> + <li>Scalloped mushrooms, <a href="#SCALLOPED_MUSHROOMS_320">320</a>.</li> + <li>Mushrooms à la poulette, <a href="#MUSHROOMS_A_LA_POULETTE_320">320</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h3 class="indexchap"><a href="#Chapter_XIII">CHAPTER XIII.</a></h3> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#Chapter_XIII"><i>Aspic Jelly, Fancy Molding Supports.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Aspic jelly, <a href="#ASPIC_321">321</a>.</li> + <li>To clear aspic, <a href="#TO_CLEAR_ASPIC_322">322</a>.</li> + <li>Quick aspic, <a href="#QUICK_ASPIC_322">322</a>.</li> + <li>Chicken aspic or jelly, <a href="#CHICKEN_ASPIC_323">323</a>.</li> + <li>Aspic croûtons, <a href="#ASPIC_CROUTONS_323">323</a>.</li> + <li>To chop jelly, <a href="#TO_CHOP_JELLY_323">323</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Mold jelly, <a href="#TO_MOLD_JELLY_323">323</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Unmold jelly, <a href="#TO_UNMOLD_JELLY_324">324</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Ornament molds, <a href="#TO_ORNAMENT_MOLDS_324">324</a>.</li> + <li>Double molds, <a href="#DOUBLE_MOLDS_325">325</a>.</li> + <li>Decorations for meat jelly, <a href="#DECORATIONS_FOR_MEAT_JELLY_326">326</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Daisy design, <a href="#DAISY_DESIGN_326">326</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Berry design, <a href="#BERRY_DESIGN_326">326</a>.</li> + <li>To decorate with truffles, <a href="#TO_DECORATE_WITH_TRUFFLES_326">326</a>.</li> + <li>Socles, <a href="#SOCLES_326">326</a>.</li> + <li>Rice socle or casserole, <a href="#RICE_SOCLE_327">327</a>.</li> + <li>Potato casserole, <a href="#POTATO_CASSEROLE_327">327</a>.</li> + <li>A potato support for hot meats, <a href="#POTATO_SUPPORT_328">328</a>.</li> + <li>Croustades of bread, <a href="#CROUSTADES_OF_BREAD_328">328</a>.</li> + <li>Roll croustades, <a href="#ROLL_CROUSTADES_328">328</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h3 class="indexchap"><a href="#Chapter_XIV">CHAPTER XIV.</a></h3> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#CHAFING-DISH_COOKING_329"><i>Chafing-dish Cooking.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>The chafing-dish, <a href="#The_chafing-dish_329">329</a>.</li> + <li>Kind of chafing-dish to use, <a href="#Kind_of_chafing-dish_329">329</a>.</li> + <li>Russian bowls, <a href="#Russian_bowls_329">329</a>.</li> + <li>Wooden spoons, <a href="#Wooden_spoons_330">330</a>.</li> + <li>Dishes suitable for chafing-dish, <a href="#Dishes_suitable_330">330</a>.</li> + <li>Panned oysters, <a href="#PANNED_OYSTERS_331">331</a>.</li> + <li>Oyster stew, <a href="#OYSTER_STEW_331">331</a>.</li> + <li>Creamed oysters and clams, <a href="#CREAMED_OYSTERS_331">331</a>.</li> + <li>Barbecue of fish, <a href="#BARBECUE_OF_FISH_331">331</a>.</li> + <li>Eggs with tomatoes, <a href="#EGGS_WITH_TOMATOES_332">332</a>.</li> + <li>Tomatoes and rice, <a href="#TOMATOES_AND_RICE_332">332</a>.</li> + <li>Creamed dishes: eggs, chicken, veal, <a href="#CREAMED_DISHES_332">332</a>.</li> + <li>Dishes à la Newburg, <a href="#DISHES_A_LA_NEWBURG_333">333</a>.</li> + <li>Terrapin, <a href="#TERRAPIN_333">333</a>.</li> + <li>Chicken livers with Madeira, <a href="#CHICKEN_LIVERS_WITH_MADEIRA_333">333</a>.</li> + <li>Crab toast, <a href="#CRAB_TOAST_334">334</a>.</li> + <li>Smelts à la Toulouse, <a href="#SMELTS_A_LA_TOULOUSE_334">334</a>.</li> + <li>Meats, <a href="#MEATS_335">335</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Venison, <a href="#VENISON_335">335</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Mutton, <a href="#MUTTON_335">335</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Beef, <a href="#BEEF_335">335</a>.</li> + <li>Welsh rabbit and golden buck, <a href="#WELSH_RAREBIT_335">335</a>.</li> + <li>Fondu-Savarin, <a href="#FONDUE_335">335</a>.</li> + <li>Pineapple canapés, <a href="#PINEAPPLE_CANAPES_336">336</a>.</li> + <li>Chocolate made with condensed milk, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_MADE_WITH_CONDENSED_MILK_337">337</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_583" id="Page_583">[583]</a></span></p> + +<h3 class="indexchap"><a href="#Chapter_XV">CHAPTER XV.</a></h3> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#Chapter_XV"><i>Bread.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Remarks about yeast, <a href="#The_yeast_plant_338">338</a>.</li> + <li>Yeast, <a href="#Yeast_338">338</a>.</li> + <li>Dick Bennet’s receipt for yeast, <a href="#DICK_BENNETS_RECEIPT_FOR_YEAST_339">339</a>.</li> + <li>Yeast receipt No. 2, <a href="#YEAST_RECEIPT_No_2_339">339</a>.</li> + <li>What to do when yeast is not obtainable to start the fermentation, <a href="#WHAT_TO_DO_WHEN_339">339</a>.</li> + <li>Proportions of raising materials and other items, <a href="#PROPORTIONS_340">340</a>.</li> + <li>General directions for making bread, <a href="#GENERAL_DIRECTIONS_340">340</a>.</li> + <li>Time, <a href="#Time_required_340">340</a>.</li> + <li>Raising, <a href="#Raising_the_bread_341">341</a>.</li> + <li>Proportions of material, <a href="#Proportions_of_materials_341">341</a>.</li> + <li>Mixing, <a href="#Mixing_342">342</a>.</li> + <li>Making a sponge, <a href="#Making_a_sponge_342">342</a>.</li> + <li>The crust on dough, <a href="#The_crust_on_dough_342">342</a>.</li> + <li>Kneading and molding, <a href="#Kneading_and_molding_342">342</a>.</li> + <li>Baking, <a href="#Baking_343">343</a>.</li> + <li>Care of bread after it is baked, <a href="#Care_of_bread_344">344</a>.</li> + <li>Baking bread rolls, <a href="#Baking_bread_rolls_344">344</a>.</li> + <li>Flour, <a href="#Flour_344">344</a>.</li> + <li>Bread pans, <a href="#Pans_344">344</a>.</li> + <li>Water bread No. 1, <a href="#WATER_BREAD_No_1_345">345</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad1">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> 2, <a href="#WATER_BREAD_No_2_345">345</a>.</li> + <li>Milk bread, <a href="#MILK_BREAD_345">345</a>.</li> + <li>Potato bread, <a href="#POTATO_BREAD_345">345</a>.</li> + <li>Receipt for making one loaf of bread or one pan of biscuits in two hours, <a href="#RECEIPT_FOR_ONE_LOAF_346">346</a>.</li> + <li>Bread made with baking-powder, <a href="#BREAD_MADE_WITH_BAKING-POWDER_346">346</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Whole wheat flour, <a href="#BREAD_MADE_OF_WHOLE_WHEAT_346">346</a>.</li> + <li>Graham bread, <a href="#GRAHAM_BREAD_346">346</a>.</li> + <li>Gluten bread, <a href="#GLUTEN_BREAD_347">347</a>.</li> + <li>Boston brown bread, <a href="#BOSTON_BROWN_BREAD_347">347</a>.</li> + <li>Toast, <a href="#TOAST_348">348</a>.</li> + <li>Milk toast, <a href="#MILK_TOAST_348">348</a>.</li> + <li>Panada, <a href="#PANADA_348">348</a>.</li> + <li>Pulled bread, <a href="#PULLED_BREAD_349">349</a>.</li> + <li>Zwieback, <a href="#ZWIEBACK_349">349</a>.</li> + <li>Bread fritters, <a href="#BREAD_FRITTERS_349">349</a>.</li> + <li>Bread rolls, <a href="#BREAD_ROLLS_349">349</a>.</li> + <li>Crescents, <a href="#CRESCENTS_350">350</a>.</li> + <li>Braids and twists, <a href="#BRAIDS_AND_TWISTS_350">350</a>.</li> + <li>Cleft rolls, <a href="#CLEFT_ROLLS_351">351</a>.</li> + <li>Luncheon and tea rolls, <a href="#LUNCHEON_AND_TEA_ROLLS_351">351</a>.</li> + <li>Parker House rolls, <a href="#PARKER_HOUSE_ROLLS_351">351</a>.</li> + <li>Tea biscuits made with baking-powder, <a href="#TEA_BISCUITS_352">352</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sour milk, <a href="#BISCUITS_352">352</a>.</li> + <li>Corn bread No. 1, <a href="#CORN_BREAD_No_1_353">353</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad1">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> No. 2, <a href="#CORN_BREAD_No_2_353">353</a>.</li> + <li>Puffs or pop-overs, <a href="#PUFFS_OR_POP-OVERS_354">354</a>.</li> + <li>Graham gems, <a href="#GRAHAM_GEMS_354">354</a>.</li> + <li>Corn gems, <a href="#CORN_GEMS_354">354</a>.</li> + <li>Muffins, <a href="#MUFFINS_No_1_355">355</a>.</li> + <li>Raised muffins, <a href="#RAISED_MUFFINS_355">355</a>.</li> + <li>English muffins or crumpets, <a href="#ENGLISH_MUFFINS_355">355</a>.</li> + <li>Sally Lunn, <a href="#SALLY_LUNN_355">355</a>.</li> + <li>Waffles, <a href="#WAFFLES_356">356</a>.</li> + <li>Hominy cake, <a href="#HOMINY_CAKE_356">356</a>.</li> + <li>Oat cake, <a href="#OAT_CAKE_356">356</a>.</li> + <li>Bran biscuits, <a href="#BRAN_BISCUITS_357">357</a>.</li> + <li>Bread sticks, <a href="#BREAD_STICKS_357">357</a>.</li> + <li>Rusks, <a href="#RUSKS_357">357</a>.</li> + <li>Dried rusks, <a href="#DRIED_RUSKS_358">358</a>.</li> + <li>Bath buns, <a href="#BATH_BUNS_358">358</a>.</li> + <li>Coffee cake, <a href="#COFFEE_CAKE_358">358</a>.</li> + <li>Brioche, <a href="#BRIOCHE_359">359</a>.</li> + <li>To make a brioche roll with head, <a href="#BRIOCHE_ROLL_WITH_HEAD_360">360</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">a brioche crown or ring, <a href="#BRIOCHE_CROWN_OR_RING_360">360</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Buns, <a href="#TO_MAKE_BUNS_360">360</a>.</li> + <li>Brioche for timbales or cabinet puddings, <a href="#BRIOCHE_FOR_TIMBALE_361">361</a>.</li> + <li>Pancakes, <a href="#PANCAKES_361">361</a>.</li> + <li>Plain pancakes, <a href="#PLAIN_PANCAKES_362">362</a>.</li> + <li>Flannel cakes, <a href="#FLANNEL_CAKES_362">362</a>.</li> + <li>Rice pancakes, <a href="#RICE_PANCAKES_362">362</a>.</li> + <li>Bread pancakes, <a href="#BREAD_PANCAKES_362">362</a>.</li> + <li>Cornmeal pancakes, <a href="#CORNMEAL_PANCAKES_363">363</a>.</li> + <li>Buckwheat pancakes, <a href="#BUCKWHEAT_CAKES_363">363</a>.</li> + <li>Adirondack pancakes, <a href="#ADIRONDACK_PANCAKES_363">363</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h3 class="indexchap"><a href="#Chapter_XVI">CHAPTER XVI.</a></h3> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#SANDWICHES_AND_CANAPES_364"><i>Sandwiches and Canapés.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>General remarks, <a href="#SANDWICHES_AND_CANAPES_364">364</a>.</li> + <li>Shapes, <a href="#Shapes_364">364</a>.</li> + <li>How to prepare the meat, <a href="#How_to_prepare_the_meat_364">364</a>.</li> + <li>Butter, <a href="#Butter_365">365</a>.</li> + <li>Rolls, <a href="#Rolls_365">365</a>.</li> + <li>How to prepare the bread, <a href="#How_to_prepare_the_bread_365">365</a>.</li> + <li>Meat sandwiches, <a href="#Meat_sandwiches_365">365</a>.</li> + <li>Fish sandwiches, <a href="#Fish_sandwiches_366">366</a>.</li> + <li>Egg sandwiches, <a href="#EGG_SANDWICHES_366">366</a>.</li> + <li>Salad sandwiches, <a href="#SALAD_SANDWICHES_366">366</a>.</li> + <li>Spanish sandwiches, <a href="#SPANISH_SANDWICHES_367">367</a>.</li> + <li>Cheese sandwiches (mock crab), <a href="#CHEESE_SANDWICHES_367">367</a>.</li> + <li><a name="corr99" id="corr99"></a>Raw beef sandwiches, <a href="#RAW_BEEF_SANDWICHES_367">367</a>.</li> + <li>Sweet sandwiches, <a href="#SWEET_SANDWICHES_367">367</a>.</li> + <li>Canapés, <a href="#CANAPES_368">368</a>.</li> + <li>Cheese canapés, <a href="#CHEESE_CANAPES_368">368</a>.</li> + <li>Ham canapés, <a href="#HAM_CANAPES_368">368</a>.</li> + <li>Anchovy canapé, <a href="#ANCHOVY_CANAPES_368">368</a>.</li> + <li>Sardine canapé, <a href="#SARDINE_CANAPES_368">368</a>.</li> + <li>Canapé Lorenzo, <a href="#CANAPE_LORENZO_369">369</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#CHEESE_AND_CHEESE_DISHES_369"><i>Cheese and Cheese Dishes.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>General directions, <a href="#CHEESE_AND_CHEESE_DISHES_369">369</a>.</li> + <li>Cheese soufflé, <a href="#CHEESE_SOUFFLE_370">370</a>.</li> + <li>Crackers and cheese, <a href="#CRACKERS_AND_CHEESE_371">371</a>.</li> + <li>Cheese canapés, <a href="#CHEESE_CANAPES_371">371</a>.</li> + <li>Welsh rarebit, <a href="#WELSH_RABBIT_371">371</a>.</li> + <li>Golden buck, <a href="#GOLDEN_BUCK_372">372</a>.</li> + <li>Cheese straws No. 1, <a href="#CHEESE_STRAWS_372">372</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Straws No. 2, <a href="#CHEESE_STRAWS_No_2_372">372</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Patties, <a href="#CHEESE_PATTIES_373">373</a>.</li> + <li>Cottage cheese, <a href="#COTTAGE_CHEESE_373">373</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h3 class="indexchap"><a href="#Chapter_XVII">CHAPTER XVII.</a></h3> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#Chapter_XVII"><i>Salads.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>General directions, <a href="#Drying_the_salad_374">374</a>.</li> + <li>To marinate, <a href="#Marinating_374">374</a>.</li> + <li>Mayonnaise, <a href="#MAYONNAISE_375">375</a>.</li> + <li>French dressing, <a href="#FRENCH_DRESSING_375">375</a>.</li> + <li>Lettuce salad, <a href="#LETTUCE_SALAD_376">376</a>.</li> + <li>Water-cresses and apples, <a href="#WATER-CRESS_AND_APPLES_376">376</a>.</li> + <li>Celery salad, <a href="#CELERY_SALAD_376">376</a>.</li> + <li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_584" id="Page_584">[584]</a></span>Cucumber and tomato salad, <a href="#CUCUMBER_AND_TOMATO_SALAD_377">377</a>.</li> + <li>Cucumber salad to serve with fish, <a href="#CUCUMBER_SALAD_377">377</a>.</li> + <li>String-bean salad, <a href="#STRING-BEAN_SALAD_377">377</a>.</li> + <li>Bean salads, <a href="#BEAN_SALADS_377">377</a>.</li> + <li>Cauliflower salad, <a href="#CAULIFLOWER_SALAD_377">377</a>.</li> + <li>Macédoine salad, <a href="#MACEDOINE_SALAD_378">378</a>.</li> + <li>Potato salad, <a href="#POTATO_SALAD_378">378</a>.</li> + <li>Cold slaw, <a href="#COLD_SLAW_378">378</a>.</li> + <li>Hot slaw, <a href="#HOT_SLAW_379">379</a>.</li> + <li>Tomato salads, <a href="#TOMATO_SALADS_379">379</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">No. 1, <a href="#Tomato_Salad_No_1_379">379</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">No. 2, stuffed tomatoes, <a href="#No_2_STUFFED_TOMATOES_380">380</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">No. 3, tomatoes and eggs, <a href="#No_3_TOMATOES_AND_EGGS_380">380</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">No. 4, molded tomatoes, <a href="#No_4_MOLDED_TOMATOES_380">380</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">No. 5, tomato jelly, <a href="#No_5_TOMATO_JELLY_380">380</a>.</li> + <li>Celery and walnut salad, <a href="#CELERY_AND_WALNUT_SALAD_381">381</a>.</li> + <li>Sweetbreads with celery, <a href="#SWEETBREADS_WITH_CELERY_381">381</a>.</li> + <li>Egg salad No. 1, <a href="#EGG_SALAD_No_1_381">381</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad0-5">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> 2, <a href="#EGG_SALAD_No_2_381">381</a>.</li> + <li>Orange salad, <a name="corr100" id="corr100"></a><a href="#ORANGE_SALAD_382">382</a>.</li> + <li>Chicken salad, <a href="#CHICKEN_SALAD_382">382</a>.</li> + <li>Lobster salad, <a href="#LOBSTER_SALAD_382">382</a>.</li> + <li>Oyster salad, <a href="#OYSTER_SALAD_383">383</a>.</li> + <li>Bouilli salad, <a href="#BOUILLI_SALAD_383">383</a>.</li> + <li>Russian salad, <a href="#RUSSIAN_SALAD_383">383</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Individual salad, <a href="#INDIVIDUAL_RUSSIAN_SALADS_383">383</a>.</li> + <li>Note, <a href="#Note_384">384</a>.</li> + <li>Aspic of pâté en Bellevue, <a href="#ASPIC_OF_PATE_384">384</a>.</li> + <li>Chicken aspic with walnuts, <a href="#CHICKEN_ASPIC_WITH_WALNUTS_384">384</a>.</li> + <li>Bird’s-nest salad, <a href="#BIRDS-NEST_SALAD_385">385</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h3 class="indexchap"><a href="#Chapter_XVIII">CHAPTER XVIII.</a></h3> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#COLD_DESSERTS_386"><i>Cold Desserts.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Information pertaining to making desserts, <a name="corr101" id="corr101"></a><a href="#COLD_DESSERTS_386">386</a>.</li> + <li>Utensils, <a name="corr102" id="corr102"></a><a href="#UTENSILS_386">386</a>.</li> + <li>Table of weights and measures, <a href="#WEIGHTS_AND_MEASURES_387">387</a>.</li> + <li>Proportions, <a href="#PROPORTIONS_387">387</a>.</li> + <li>Materials, <a href="#MATERIALS_388">388</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Gelatine, <a href="#Gelatine_388">388</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chocolate, <a href="#Chocolate_388">388</a>.</li> + <li>To melt chocolate, <a href="#To_melt_chocolate_388">388</a>.</li> + <li>To whip eggs, <a href="#To_whip_eggs_389">389</a>.</li> + <li>Sweetening meringue, <a href="#Sweetening_389">389</a>.</li> + <li>Milk scalded, <a href="#Milk_389">389</a>.</li> + <li>Raisins, <a href="#Raisins_389">389</a>.</li> + <li>Thickening fruit juices, <a href="#Thickening_389">389</a>.</li> + <li>When to add flavoring, <a href="#Flavoring_389">389</a>.</li> + <li>Molding, <a href="#Molding_389">389</a>.</li> + <li>Liqueurs, <a href="#Liqueurs_390">390</a>.</li> + <li>Wines, <a href="#Wines_390">390</a>.</li> + <li>Eau de vie de Dantzic, <a href="#Eau_de_Vie_390">390</a>.</li> + <li>Vanilla bean, <a href="#Vanilla_bean_390">390</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Powder, <a href="#Vanilla_powder_390">390</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sugar, <a href="#Vanilla_sugar_390">390</a>.</li> + <li>How to make vanilla sugar, <a href="#Vanilla_sugar_391">391</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Orange sugar, <a href="#Orange_sugar_391">391</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Lemon sugar, <a href="#Lemon_sugar_391">391</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Rose sugar, <a href="#Rose_sugar_391">391</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Orange and lemon syrups, <a href="#Orange_and_lemon_syrups_391">391</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To get pistachio flavor, <a href="#Pistachio_flavor_391">391</a>.</li> + <li>Peach-leaf flavor, <a href="#peach_leaf_391">391</a>.</li> + <li>Caramel, <a href="#Caramel_391">391</a>.</li> + <li>How to make candied orange or lemon peel, <a href="#Preserved_orange_and_lemon_peel_391">391</a>.</li> + <li>Coloring, <a href="#COLORING_392">392</a>.</li> + <li>Garnishing, <a href="#GARNISHING_392">392</a>.</li> + <li>California candied fruits, <a href="#Candied_California_fruits_392">392</a>.</li> + <li>Angelica, <a href="#Angelica_392">392</a>.</li> + <li>Currants, raisins, nuts, for garnishing, <a href="#Currants_393">393</a>.</li> + <li>Fresh flowers for garnishing, <a href="#Fresh_flowers_393">393</a>.</li> + <li>Colored sugars for garnishing, <a href="#Colored_sugars_393">393</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">How to make, <a href="#To_color_sugar_393">393</a>.</li> + <li>Sauces for cold sweet dishes, <a href="#Sauces_393">393</a>.</li> + <li>Canned fruits, <a href="#Canned_fruits_393">393</a>.</li> + <li>The <a name="corr103" id="corr103"></a>store-closet, <a href="#THE_STORE-CLOSET_394">394</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#CUSTARDS_394"><i>Custards.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li class="subhead">Boiled custard No. 1, <a href="#BOILED_CUSTARD_NO_1_394">394</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span> 2, <a href="#BOILED_CUSTARD_NO_2_395">395</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Floating island, <a name="corr104" id="corr104"></a><a href="#FLOATING_ISLAND_395">395</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chocolate custard, <a name="corr105" id="corr105"></a><a href="#CHOCOLATE_CUSTARD_395">395</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Baked custard, <a href="#BAKED_CUSTARD_396">396</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Caramel custard, <a href="#CARAMEL_CUSTARD_396">396</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chocolate cream custard, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_CREAM_CUSTARD_397">397</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Rennet, <a href="#RENNET_CUSTARD_397">397</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#CORN-STARCH_PUDDINGS_397"><i>Cornstarch Puddings.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li class="subhead">No. 1, a plain cornstarch pudding, <a href="#NO_1_PLAIN_CORN-STARCH_PUDDING_397">397</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">No. 2, cornstarch with canned fruit, <a href="#NO_2_CORN-STARCH_WITH_CANNED_FRUIT_398">398</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">No. 3, cocoanut pudding, <a href="#NO_3_COCOANUT_PUDDING_398">398</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">No. 4, chocolate pudding, <a href="#NO_4_CHOCOLATE_PUDDING_398">398</a>.</li> + <li>Cornstarch chocolates, <a href="#CORN-STARCH_CHOCOLATES_398">398</a>.</li> + <li>Blanc-mange or white jelly, <a href="#BLANC-MANGE_399">399</a>.</li> + <li>Plum-pudding jelly, <a href="#PLUM_PUDDING_JELLY_399">399</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#BAVARIAN_CREAMS_400"><i>Bavarian Creams.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>General rules for, <a href="#BAVARIAN_CREAMS_400">400</a>.</li> + <li>Plain Bavarian cream, <a href="#PLAIN_BAVARIAN_CREAM_400">400</a>.</li> + <li>Chocolate Bavarian cream, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_BAVARIAN_401">401</a>.</li> + <li>Italian cream or Bavarian without cream, <a href="#ITALIAN_CREAM_401">401</a>.</li> + <li>Fruit Bavarian, <a href="#FRUIT_BAVARIAN_401">401</a>.</li> + <li>Rice Bavarian, or Riz à l’impératrice, <a href="#RICE_BAVARIAN_402">402</a>.</li> + <li>Bavarian panachée, <a href="#BAVARIAN_PANACHEE_402">402</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">en surprise, <a href="#BAVARIAN_EN_SURPRISE_402">402</a>.</li> + <li>Diplomatic pudding, <a href="#DIPLOMATIC_PUDDING_403">403</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Bavarian, <a href="#DIPLOMATIC_BAVARIAN_403">403</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#CHARLOTTE_RUSSE_403"><i>Charlotte Russe.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Charlotte russe, filling, No. 1, <a href="#CHARLOTTE_RUSSE_FILLING_No_1_404">404</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">No. 2 (with eggs), <a href="#CHARLOTTE_RUSSE_FILLING_No_2_405">405</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">No. 3 (with fruit), <a href="#CHARLOTTE_RUSSE_FILLING_No_3_405">405</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">No. 4, <a href="#CHARLOTTE_RUSSE_FILLING_No_4_405">405</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">No. 5, <a href="#CHARLOTTE_RUSSE_FILLING_No_5_405">405</a>.</li> + <li>Timbale of brioche, <a href="#TIMBALE_OF_BRIOCHE_406">406</a>.</li> + <li>Charlotte princesse de Galles, <a href="#CHARLOTTE_PRINCESSE_de_GALLES_406">406</a>.</li> + <li>Strawberry Charlotte, <a href="#STRAWBERRY_CHARLOTTE_406">406</a>.</li> + <li>Gâteau St. Honoré, <a href="#GATEAU_ST_HONORE_407">407</a>.</li> + <li>Croquenbouche of macaroons, <a href="#CROQUENBOUCHE_OF_MACAROONS_408">408</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#WHIPPED_CREAM_408"><i>Whipped Cream.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>How to whip cream, <a href="#WHIPPED_CREAM_408">408</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Whips, <a href="#WHIPS_409">409</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_585" id="Page_585">[585]</a></span>Czarina cream, <a href="#CZARINA_CREAM_410">410</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chestnut purée with cream, <a href="#CHESTNUT_PUREE_410">410</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chestnuts with cream, <a href="#CHESTNUTS_WITH_CREAM_410">410</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#USES_FOR_STALE_CAKE_411"><i>Uses for Stale Cake.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Pine cones, <a href="#PINE_CONES_411">411</a>.</li> + <li>Cake with custard, <a href="#CAKE_WITH_CUSTARD_411">411</a>.</li> + <li>Trifle (Esther), <a href="#TRIFLE_411">411</a>.</li> + <li>Banana trifle (Martha), <a href="#BANANA_TRIFLE_412">412</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#SWEET_JELLIES_412"><i>Sweet Jellies.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Points to observe in making jellies, <a href="#Points_to_observe_412">412</a>.</li> + <li>Dissolving, <a href="#Dissolving_412">412</a>.</li> + <li>Proportions, <a href="#Proportions_413">413</a>.</li> + <li>Clarifying, <a href="#To_clear_jelly_413">413</a>.</li> + <li>Molding for fancy jellies, <a href="#Molding_for_fancy_jellies_413">413</a>.</li> + <li>Serving jellies, <a href="#Serving_414">414</a>.</li> + <li>To clarify fruit juices, <a href="#To_clarify_fruit_juices_415">415</a>.</li> + <li>Wine jelly, <a href="#WINE_JELLY_415">415</a>.</li> + <li>Lemon jelly, <a href="#LEMON_JELLY_415">415</a>.</li> + <li>Orange jelly, <a href="#ORANGE_JELLY_415">415</a>.</li> + <li>Coffee jelly, <a href="#COFFEE_JELLY_416">416</a>.</li> + <li>Champagne jelly, <a href="#CHAMPAGNE_JELLY_416">416</a>.</li> + <li>Champagne jelly with flowers, <a href="#CHAMPAGNE_JELLY_WITH_FLOWERS_416">416</a>.</li> + <li>Whipped jelly or snow pudding, <a href="#WHIPPED_JELLY_417">417</a>.</li> + <li>Jellies with fruits (macédoine), <a href="#JELLIES_WITH_FRUITS_417">417</a>.</li> + <li>Russian jellies, <a href="#RUSSIAN_JELLIES_417">417</a>.</li> + <li>Ribbon jelly, <a href="#RIBBON_JELLY_418">418</a>.</li> + <li>Italian jelly, <a href="#ITALIAN_JELLY_418">418</a>.</li> + <li>Dantzic jelly, <a href="#DANTZIC_JELLY_418">418</a>.</li> + <li>What to do with jelly left over, <a href="#WHAT_TO_DO_WITH_JELLY_LEFT_OVER_418">418</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#PAINS_AUX_FRUITS_419"><i>Pains aux Fruits or Jellied Fruits.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Pain de fraises (strawberries), <a href="#PAIN_DE_FRAISES_419">419</a>.</li> + <li>Suprême of strawberries, <a href="#SUPREME_OF_STRAWBERRIES_419">419</a>.</li> + <li>Pain de riz aux fruits (rice with fruits), <a href="#PAIN_DE_RIZ_419">419</a>.</li> + <li>Pain de riz à la princesse, <a href="#PAIN_DE_RIZ_A_LA_PRINCESSE_419">419</a>.</li> + <li>Pain d’oranges (oranges), <a href="#PAIN_DORANGES_420">420</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">de pêches (peaches), <a href="#PAIN_DE_PECHES_420">420</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">de marrons (chestnuts), <a href="#PAIN_DE_MARRONS_420">420</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h3 class="indexchap"><a href="#Chapter_XIX">CHAPTER XIX.</a></h3> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#Chapter_XIX"><i>Hot Desserts.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Soufflés, <a href="#SOUFFLES_421">421</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Omelet, <a href="#OMELET_SOUFFLE_422">422</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Vanilla, <a href="#VANILLA_SOUFFLE_422">422</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chocolate, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_SOUFFLE_423">423</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Prune, <a href="#PRUNE_SOUFFLE_423">423</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Apple, <a href="#APPLE_SOUFFLE_424">424</a>.</li> + <li>Farina pudding, <a href="#FARINA_PUDDING_424">424</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#SWEET_OMELETS_425"><i>Sweet Omelets.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Orange omelet, <a href="#ORANGE_OMELET_425">425</a>.</li> + <li>Jam omelet, <a href="#JAM_OMELET_425">425</a>.</li> + <li>Rum omelet, <a href="#RUM_OMELET_426">426</a>.</li> + <li>Sweet pancakes, <a href="#SWEET_PANCAKES_426">426</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#FRITTERS_426"><i>Fritters.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Fritter batter, <a href="#FRITTER_BATTER_426">426</a>.</li> + <li>Apple fritters, <a href="#APPLE_FRITTERS_427">427</a>.</li> + <li>Peach or apricot fritters, <a href="#PEACH_OR_APRICOT_FRITTERS_427">427</a>.</li> + <li>Orange fritters, <a href="#ORANGE_FRITTERS_427">427</a>.</li> + <li>Biscuit dough, <a href="#FRITTERS_MADE_OF_BISCUIT_DOUGH_428">428</a>.</li> + <li>Balloons, <a href="#BALLOONS_428">428</a>.</li> + <li>Batter pudding, <a href="#BATTER_PUDDING_428">428</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#DESSERTS_MADE_OF_APPLES_429"><i>Desserts made of Apples.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Snow apple pudding, <a href="#SNOW_APPLE_PUDDING_429">429</a>.</li> + <li>Brown Betty, <a href="#BROWN_BETTY_429">429</a>.</li> + <li>Baked apple dumplings, <a href="#BAKED_APPLE_DUMPLINGS_429">429</a>.</li> + <li>Apple Charlotte, <a href="#APPLE_CHARLOTTE_430">430</a>.</li> + <li>Apples with rice, No. 1, <a href="#APPLES_WITH_RICE_No_1_430">430</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad1">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> 2, <a href="#APPLES_WITH_RICE_No_2_431">431</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">With cornstarch (Felice), <a href="#APPLES_WITH_CORN-STARCH_432">432</a>.</li> + <li>Flaming apples, <a href="#FLAMING_APPLES_432">432</a>.</li> + <li>Baked apples (for breakfast), <a href="#BAKED_APPLES_BREAKFAST_432">432</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad1">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span> (for luncheon), <a href="#BAKED_APPLES_LUNCH_432">432</a>.</li> + <li>Tapioca pudding, <a href="#TAPIOCA_PUDDING_433">433</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#RICE_PUDDINGS_433"><i>Rice Puddings.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Plain rice pudding <a name="corr106" id="corr106"></a>No. 1, <a href="#PLAIN_RICE_PUDDING_No_1_433">433</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad0-5">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> <span class="pad1-5">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> 2, <a href="#RICE_PUDDING_No_2_433">433</a>.</li> + <li>Rice and raisins, <a href="#RICE_AND_RAISINS_434">434</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#BREAD_PUDDINGS_434"><i>Bread Puddings.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Bread pudding, <a href="#BREAD_PUDDING_No_1_434">434</a>.</li> + <li>Bread and butter pudding, <a href="#BREAD_AND_BUTTER_PUDDING_434">434</a>.</li> + <li>Bread tarts, <a href="#BREAD_TARTS_435">435</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#CAKE_PUDDINGS_435"><i>Cake Puddings.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Cottage pudding, <a href="#COTTAGE_PUDDING_435">435</a>.</li> + <li>Canary pudding, <a href="#CANARY_PUDDING_436">436</a>.</li> + <li>Suet pudding, <a href="#SUET_PUDDING_436">436</a>.</li> + <li>Farina pudding, boiled, <a href="#FARINA_PUDDING_436">436</a>.</li> + <li>Christmas plum pudding, <a href="#CHRISTMAS_PLUM_PUDDING_437">437</a>.</li> + <li>Fig pudding, <a href="#FIG_PUDDING_438">438</a>.</li> + <li>Cabinet pudding No. 1, <a href="#CABINET_PUDDING_No_1_438">438</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad1-5">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> 2, <a href="#CABINET_PUDDING_No_2_439">439</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad1-5">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> 3 (royale), <a href="#CABINET_PUDDING_No_3_439">439</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad1-5">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> 4, <a href="#CABINET_PUDDING_No_4_440">440</a>.</li> + <li>Savarins, <a href="#SAVARINS_440">440</a>.</li> + <li>Baba, <a href="#BABA_440">440</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#CUSTARDS_441"><i>Custards.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Crême Parisienne, <a href="#CREME_PARISIENNE_441">441</a>.</li> + <li>Fried Cream, <a href="#FRIED_CREAM_441">441</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#SHORT_CAKES_442"><i>Shortcakes.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Strawberry shortcake, <a href="#STRAWBERRY_SHORTCAKE_442">442</a>.</li> + <li>Currant shortcake, <a href="#CURRANT_SHORTCAKE_442">442</a>.</li> + <li>Strawberry cake, <a href="#STRAWBERRY_CAKE_443">443</a>.</li> + <li>Roly-poly pudding, <a href="#ROLY-POLY_PUDDING_443">443</a>.</li> + <li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_586" id="Page_586">[586]</a></span>Fruit pudding, <a href="#FRUIT_PUDDING_443">443</a>.</li> + <li>Baked Indian pudding, <a href="#BAKED_INDIAN_PUDDING_443">443</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#PUDDING_SAUCES_444"><i>Pudding Sauces.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Plain pudding sauce No. 1 (hot), <a href="#PLAIN_PUDDING_SAUCE_No_1_444">444</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad1">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span> <span class="pad1">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> 2 (Cold), <a href="#PLAIN_PUDDING_SAUCE_No_2_445">445</a>.</li> + <li>Rich pudding sauce, <a href="#RICH_PUDDING_SAUCE_445">445</a>.</li> + <li>Foamy pudding sauce, <a href="#FOAMY_SAUCE_445">445</a>.</li> + <li>Brandy, rum, or kirsch sauce, <a href="#BRANDY_RUM_OR_KIRSCH_SAUCE_445">445</a>.</li> + <li>Sabayon No. 1, <a href="#SABAYON_No_1_446">446</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad1-5">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> 2, <a href="#SABAYON_No_2_446">446</a>.</li> + <li>Syrup sauce, <a href="#SYRUP_SAUCE_446">446</a>.</li> + <li>Fruit sauces, <a href="#FRUIT_SAUCES_446">446</a>.</li> + <li>Apricot sauce, <a href="#APRICOT_SAUCE_446">446</a>.</li> + <li>Purée of fruit, <a href="#PUREE_OF_FRUIT_SAUCES_447">447</a>.</li> + <li>Pineapple sauce, <a href="#PINEAPPLE_SAUCE_447">447</a>.</li> + <li>Boiled custard sauce, <a href="#BOILED_CUSTARD_SAUCE_447">447</a>.</li> + <li>Chocolate sauce, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_SAUCE_447">447</a>.</li> + <li>Bischoff sauce, <a href="#BISCHOFF_SAUCE_447">447</a>.</li> + <li>Richelieu sauce, <a href="#RICHELIEU_SAUCE_448">448</a>.</li> + <li>Meringue sauce, <a name="corr107" id="corr107"></a><a href="#MERINGUE_SAUCE_448">448</a>.</li> + <li>Hard sauce, <a href="#HARD_SAUCE_448">448</a>.</li> + <li>Strawberry sauce, <a href="#STRAWBERRY_SAUCE_449">449</a>.</li> + <li>Cocoanut sauce, <a href="#COCOANUT_SAUCE_449">449</a>.</li> + <li>Cold jelly sauce, <a href="#COLD_JELLY_SAUCE_449">449</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h3 class="indexchap"><a href="#Chapter_XX">CHAPTER XX.</a></h3> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#PIES_451"><i>Pies.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Plain pastry for pies, <a href="#PLAIN_PASTRY_FOR_PIES_451">451</a>.</li> + <li>Pastry for tarts or open pies, <a href="#PASTRY_FOR_TARTS_OR_OPEN_PIES_452">452</a>.</li> + <li>Tart pies, <a href="#TART_PIES_452">452</a>.</li> + <li>Orange pie, <a href="#ORANGE_PIE_453">453</a>.</li> + <li>A plain apple pie, <a href="#PLAIN_APPLE_PIE_454">454</a>.</li> + <li>Pumpkin pie, <a href="#PUMPKIN_PIE_454">454</a>.</li> + <li>Mince pie mixture, <a href="#MINCE_PIE_MIXTURE_454">454</a>.</li> + <li>Cream pie, <a href="#CREAM_PIE_455">455</a>.</li> + <li>Cocoanut pie, <a href="#COCOANUT_PIE_456">456</a>.</li> + <li>Cranberry pie, <a href="#CRANBERRY_PIE_456">456</a>.</li> + <li>Washington pie, <a href="#WASHINGTON_PIE_457">457</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#PUFF-PASTE_457"><i>Puff-Paste.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>General rules, <a href="#GENERAL_RULES_457">457</a>.</li> + <li>Receipt for puff-paste, <a href="#RECEIPT_FOR_PUFF-PASTE_458">458</a>.</li> + <li>Pâté shells, <a href="#PATE_SHELLS_460">460</a>.</li> + <li>Tart bands, <a href="#TART_BANDS_460">460</a>.</li> + <li>Millefeuilles, <a href="#MILLEFEUILLES_461">461</a>.</li> + <li>Tartlets, <a href="#TARTLETS_461">461</a>.</li> + <li>Paganini tartlets, <a href="#PAGANINI_TARTLETS_461">461</a>.</li> + <li>To glaze or egg pastry, <a href="#TO_GLAZE_PASTRY_461">461</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h3 class="indexchap"><a href="#Chapter_XXI">CHAPTER XXI.</a></h3> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#Chapter_XXI"><i>Cake.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Rules for making cake, <a href="#RULES_462">462</a>.</li> + <li>How to beat eggs, <a href="#HOW_TO_BEAT_EGGS_463">463</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To line tins with paper, <a href="#HOW_TO_LINE_TINS_WITH_PAPER_463">463</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To grease pans, <a href="#HOW_TO_GREASE_PANS_464">464</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">To bake cake, <a href="#HOW_TO_BAKE_CAKE_464">464</a>.</li> + <li>Mixing sponge cake, <a href="#MIXING_SPONGE-CAKES_465">465</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cake made with butter, <a href="#MIXING_CAKE_MADE_WITH_BUTTER_465">465</a>.</li> + <li>Sponge cake No. 1, <a href="#SPONGE-CAKE_No_1_466">466</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad4">“</span> “ 2, <a href="#SPONGE-CAKE_No_2_466">466</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad4">“</span> “ 3, <a href="#SPONGE-CAKE_No_3_466">466</a>.</li> + <li>White sponge or angel cake, <a href="#WHITE_SPONGE_467">467</a>.</li> + <li>Sunshine cake, <a href="#SUNSHINE_CAKE_467">467</a>.</li> + <li>Genoese cake, <a href="#GENOESE_CAKE_467">467</a>.</li> + <li>Jelly rolls, <a href="#JELLY_ROLLS_468">468</a>.</li> + <li>Layer cakes—chocolate, vanilla, coffee, <a href="#LAYER_CAKES_468">468</a>.</li> + <li>Cream filling, <a href="#CREAM_FILLING_468">468</a>.</li> + <li>Chocolate filling, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_FILLING_469">469</a>.</li> + <li>Orange cake, <a href="#ORANGE_CAKE_469">469</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Filling, <a href="#ORANGE_FILLING_469">469</a>.</li> + <li>Pistachio cake, <a href="#PISTACHIO_CAKE_469">469</a>.</li> + <li>Plain cup cake, <a href="#PLAIN_CUP_CAKE_470">470</a>.</li> + <li>Gold and silver cake, <a href="#GOLD-AND-SILVER_CAKE_470">470</a>.</li> + <li>Marble cake, <a href="#MARBLE_CAKE_470">470</a>.</li> + <li>Richer cup, or 1, 2, 3, 4 cake, <a href="#RICHER_CUP_471">471</a>.</li> + <li>Pound cake, <a href="#POUND-CAKE_471">471</a>.</li> + <li>White cake, <a href="#WHITE_CAKE_471">471</a>.</li> + <li>Plain fruit cake, <a href="#PLAIN_FRUIT_CAKE_472">472</a>.</li> + <li>Brod torte, <a href="#BROD_TORTE_472">472</a>.</li> + <li>Fruit cake (rich), <a href="#FRUIT_CAKE_473">473</a>.</li> + <li>Cream cakes and éclairs, <a href="#CREAM_CAKES_AND_ECLAIRS_473">473</a>.</li> + <li>Cream cakes, <a href="#CREAM_CAKES_474">474</a>.</li> + <li>Chocolate, vanilla, and coffee éclairs, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_VANILLA_AND_COFFEE_ECLAIRS_474">474</a>.</li> + <li>Carolines, <a href="#CAROLINES_475">475</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#FANCY_SMALL_CAKES_475"><i>Fancy Small Cakes.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Meringues and kisses, <a href="#MERINGUES_AND_KISSES_475">475</a>.</li> + <li>Lady-fingers, <a href="#LADY-FINGERS_476">476</a>.</li> + <li>Macaroons, <a href="#MACAROONS_477">477</a>.</li> + <li>Cocoanut balls or cones, <a href="#COCOANUT_BALLS_477">477</a>.</li> + <li>Madeleines No. 1, <a href="#MADELEINES_No_1_477">477</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad2">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> 2, <a href="#MADELEINES_No_2_478">478</a>.</li> + <li>Little pound cakes, <a href="#LITTLE_POUND-CAKES_478">478</a>.</li> + <li>Orange quarters, <a href="#ORANGE_QUARTERS_478">478</a>.</li> + <li>Almond wafers, <a href="#ALMOND_WAFERS_478">478</a>.</li> + <li>Venetian cakes, <a href="#VENETIAN_CAKES_479">479</a>.</li> + <li>Gauffres, <a href="#GAUFFRES_479">479</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#JUMBLES_COOKIES_AND_PLAIN_CAKES_480"><i>Jumbles, Cookies, and Plain Cakes.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Jumbles, <a href="#JUMBLES_480">480</a>.</li> + <li>Sand tarts, <a href="#SAND_TARTS_480">480</a>.</li> + <li>Rolled jumbles, <a href="#ROLLED_JUMBLES_480">480</a>.</li> + <li>Plain cookies, <a href="#PLAIN_COOKIES_481">481</a>.</li> + <li>Ginger snaps, <a href="#GINGER_SNAPS_481">481</a>.</li> + <li>Crullers, <a href="#CRULLERS_481">481</a>.</li> + <li>Doughnuts, <a href="#DOUGHNUTS_481">481</a>.</li> + <li>Bread cake, <a href="#BREAD_CAKE_482">482</a>.</li> + <li>One-egg cake, <a href="#ONE-EGG_CAKE_482">482</a>.</li> + <li>Warren’s cake, <a href="#WARRENS_CAKE_482">482</a>.</li> + <li>Molasses wafers, <a href="#MOLASSES_WAFERS_482">482</a>.</li> + <li>Soft gingerbread, <a href="#SOFT_GINGERBREAD_483">483</a>.</li> + <li>Molasses cake, <a href="#MOLASSES_CAKE_483">483</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#ICING_AND_DECORATING_CAKES_483"><i>Icing and Decorating Cakes.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Royal icing, <a href="#ROYAL_ICING_483">483</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad3">“</span> with confectioner’s sugar, <a href="#ROYAL_ICING_WITH_CONFECTIONERS_SUGAR_484">484</a>.</li> + <li>Boiled icing No. 1, <a href="#BOILED_ICING_No_1_484">484</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad3">“</span> “ 2, <a href="#BOILED_ICING_No_2_484">484</a>.</li> + <li>Chocolate icing No. 1, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_ICING_No_1_484">484</a>.</li> + <li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_587" id="Page_587">[587]</a></span>Chocolate icing No. 2, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_ICING_No_2_485">485</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad4">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> 3, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_ICING_No_3_485">485</a>.</li> + <li>Icing for small cakes, <a href="#ICING_FOR_SMALL_CAKES_485">485</a>.</li> + <li>Coffee icing for éclairs, <a href="#COFFEE_ICING_FOR_ECLAIRS_485">485</a>.</li> + <li>Fondant icing, <a href="#FONDANT_ICING_485">485</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#GARNISHING_CAKES_486"><i>Garnishing Cakes.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>With powdered sugar, <a href="#WITH_POWDERED_SUGAR_486">486</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Chopped nuts, <a href="#WITH_CHOPPED_NUTS_486">486</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Colored sugars, <a href="#WITH_COLORED_SUGARS_486">486</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Two colors, <a href="#WITH_TWO_COLORS_486">486</a>.</li> + <li>To decorate in designs, <a href="#TO_DECORATE_IN_DESIGNS_487">487</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h3 class="indexchap"><a href="#Chapter_XXII">CHAPTER XXII.</a></h3> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#Chapter_XXII"><i>Frozen Desserts.</i></a></h4> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#ICE-CREAMS_488"><i>Ice-Creams, Water-ices, Parfaits, Mousses, Frozen Fruits, Punches, and +Sherbets.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Remarks about frozen desserts, <a href="#ICE-CREAMS_488">488</a>.</li> + <li>Classification of ice-creams, <a href="#CLASSIFICATION_OF_ICE-CREAMS_488">488</a>.</li> + <li>General rules for making ice-creams, <a href="#GENERAL_RULES_489">489</a>.</li> + <li>The cream, <a href="#The_cream_489">489</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Sugar, <a href="#The_sugar_489">489</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Custards, <a href="#Custards_489">489</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1-5">“</span> for biscuits and parfaits, <a href="#Biscuits_and_parfaits_490">490</a>.</li> + <li>Freezing, <a href="#Freezing_490">490</a>.</li> + <li>Packing, <a href="#Packing_490">490</a>.</li> + <li>Molding, <a href="#Molding_491">491</a>.</li> + <li>Fancy molding, <a href="#Fancy_Molding_491">491</a>.</li> + <li>Unmolding, <a href="#Unmolding_493">493</a>.</li> + <li>Ornamental creams, <a href="#Ornamental_Creams_493">493</a>.</li> + <li>Individual creams, <a href="#Individual_Creams_493">493</a>.</li> + <li>Vanilla ice-creams, <a href="#VANILLA_ICE-CREAMS_494">494</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">No. 1, Philadelphia, <a href="#NO_1_PHILADELPHIA_ICE-CREAM_494">494</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">No. 2, American (very plain), <a href="#NO_2_AMERICAN_ICE-CREAM_495">495</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">No. 3, French, <a href="#NO_3_FRENCH_ICE-CREAM_495">495</a>.</li> + <li>Chocolate ice-cream, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_ICE-CREAM_496">496</a>.</li> + <li>Caramel ice-cream No. 1, <a href="#CARAMEL_ICE-CREAM_No_1_496">496</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad1-5">“</span> <span class="pad1-5">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> 2, <a href="#CARAMEL_ICE-CREAM_No_2_497">497</a>.</li> + <li>Coffee ice-cream No. 1, <a href="#COFFEE_ICE-CREAM_No_1_497">497</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad1-5">“</span> <span class="pad1-5">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> 2, <a href="#COFFEE_ICE-CREAM_No_2_497">497</a>.</li> + <li>White or angel ice-cream, <a href="#WHITE_OR_ANGEL_ICE-CREAM_497">497</a>.</li> + <li>Italian meringue, <a href="#ITALIAN_MERINGUE_498">498</a>.</li> + <li>Rice ice-cream, <a href="#RICE_ICE-CREAM_498">498</a>.</li> + <li>Pistachio ice-cream, <a href="#PISTACHIO_ICE-CREAM_498">498</a>.</li> + <li>Neapolitan ice-cream, <a href="#NEAPOLITAN_ICE-CREAM_498">498</a>.</li> + <li>Nesselrode pudding, <a href="#NESSELRODE_PUDDING_499">499</a>.</li> + <li>Plum pudding glacé, <a href="#PLUM_PUDDING_GLACE_500">500</a>.</li> + <li>Sauce for plum pudding glacé or for Nesselrode pudding, <a href="#SAUCE_FOR_PLUM_PUDDING_GLACE_501">501</a>.</li> + <li>Tutti frutti, <a href="#TUTTI-FRUTTI_501">501</a>.</li> + <li>Fruit ice-creams, <a href="#FRUIT_ICE-CREAMS_501">501</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">No. 1, <a href="#Fruit_ice_cream_No_1_501">501</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">No. 2, <a href="#Fruit_ice_cream_No_2_501">501</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">No. 3, <a href="#Fruit_ice_cream_No_3_502">502</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">No. 4, fruit puddings, <a href="#Fruit_puddings_No_4_502">502</a>.</li> + <li>Nut ice-creams, <a href="#NUT_ICE-CREAMS_502">502</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#PARFAITS_502"><i>Parfaits.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>General remarks about parfaits, <a href="#PARFAITS_502">502</a>.</li> + <li>Sugar syrup, <a href="#SUGAR_SYRUP_503">503</a>.</li> + <li>Vanilla parfait, <a href="#VANILLA_PARFAIT_503">503</a>.</li> + <li>Maple parfait, <a href="#MAPLE_PARFAIT_504">504</a>.</li> + <li>Parfait au café and café praliné, <a href="#PARFAIT_AU_CAFE_504">504</a>.</li> + <li>Chocolate parfait and chocolate praliné, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_PARFAIT_504">504</a>.</li> + <li>Praline powder, <a href="#PRALINE_POWDER_505">505</a>.</li> + <li>Angel parfait, <a href="#ANGEL_PARFAIT_505">505</a>.</li> + <li><a name="corr108" id="corr108"></a>Imperatrice or rice pudding glacé, <a href="#IMPERATRICE_505">505</a>.</li> + <li>Parfaits of chestnuts, candied fruits, fresh fruits or berries, <a href="#PARFAITS_OF_CHESTNUTS_506">506</a>.</li> + <li>Biscuits glacé, <a href="#BISCUITS_GLACE_506">506</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#MOUSSES_506"><i>Mousses.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Fruit mousses, <a href="#FRUIT_MOUSSES_507">507</a>.</li> + <li>Golden mousse (made without cream), <a href="#GOLDEN_MOUSSE_507">507</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#WATER-ICES_508"><i>Water-ices.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Orange ice, <a href="#ORANGE-ICE_508">508</a>.</li> + <li>Lemon ice, <a href="#LEMON-ICE_508">508</a>.</li> + <li>Strawberry ice, <a href="#STRAWBERRY-ICE_508">508</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#PUNCHES_AND_SHERBETS_508"><i>Punches and Sherbets.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>General remarks about punches and sherbets, <a href="#PUNCHES_AND_SHERBETS_508">508</a>.</li> + <li>Coffee punch, <a href="#COFFEE_PUNCH_509">509</a>.</li> + <li>Café frappé, <a href="#CAFE_FRAPPE_509">509</a>.</li> + <li>Lalla Rookh, <a href="#LALLA_ROOKH_509">509</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h3 class="indexchap"><a href="#Chapter_XXIII">CHAPTER XXIII.</a></h3> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#BOILING_SUGAR_AND_MAKING_CANDIES_510"><i>Boiling Sugar and Making Candies.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Boiling sugar, <a href="#BOILING_SUGAR_510">510</a>.</li> + <li>Granulation, <a href="#GRANULATION_511">511</a>.</li> + <li>Degrees of boiling sugar, <a href="#DEGREES_OF_BOILING_SUGAR_512">512</a>.</li> + <li>Syrups, <a href="#SYRUPS_513">513</a>.</li> + <li>Fondant, <a href="#FONDANT_513">513</a>.</li> + <li>To make fondant, <a href="#TO_MAKE_FONDANT_514">514</a>.</li> + <li>Spun sugar, <a href="#SPUN_SUGAR_515">515</a>.</li> + <li>Directions for spinning sugar, <a href="#DIRECTIONS_FOR_SPINNING_SUGAR_515">515</a>.</li> + <li>Glacé oranges and grapes, <a href="#GLACE_ORANGES_AND_GRAPES_516">516</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#CANDIES_517"><i>Candies.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>General remarks about candy making, <a href="#CANDIES_517">517</a>.</li> + <li>Nougat No. 1 (for bonbons), <a href="#NOUGAT_No_1_518">518</a>.</li> + <li> <span class="pad1">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> 2 (for molding), <a href="#NOUGAT_No_2_519">519</a>.</li> + <li> <span class="pad1">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> 3 (soft white nougat), <a href="#NOUGAT_No_3_519">519</a>.</li> + <li> <span class="pad1">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> 4 (bonbons), <a href="#NOUGAT_No_4_520">520</a>.</li> + <li>Burnt almonds, <a href="#BURNT_ALMONDS_520">520</a>.</li> + <li>Sugared almonds, <a href="#SUGARED_ALMONDS_520">520</a>.</li> + <li>Marrons glacé, <a href="#MARRONS_GLACE_521">521</a>.</li> + <li>Marshmallows, <a href="#MARSHMALLOWS_521">521</a>.</li> + <li>Chocolate caramels, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_522">522</a>.</li> + <li>Caramels, vanilla, coffee, maple, <a href="#VANILLA_COFFEE_MAPLE_522">522</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#BONBONS_OF_FONDANT_522"><i>Bonbons of Fondant.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Harlequin balls, <a href="#HARLEQUIN_BALLS_522">522</a>.</li> + <li>Neapolitan squares, <a href="#NEAPOLITAN_SQUARES_523">523</a>.</li> + <li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_588" id="Page_588">[588]</a></span>Nut creams, <a href="#NUT_CREAMS_523">523</a>.</li> + <li>Sugar-plums, <a href="#SUGAR-PLUMS_523">523</a>.</li> + <li>Chocolate creams, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_CREAMS_524">524</a>.</li> + <li>Creamed nuts and creamed fruits, <a href="#CREAMED_NUTS_524">524</a>.</li> + <li>Cocoanut creams, <a href="#COCOANUT_CREAMS_524">524</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Cakes, <a href="#COCOANUT_CAKES_525">525</a>.</li> + <li>Peppermint creams, <a href="#PEPPERMINT_CREAMS_525">525</a>.</li> + <li>Chocolate peppermints, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_PEPPERMINTS_525">525</a>.</li> + <li>To make starch molds and cast candies, <a href="#TO_MAKE_STARCH_MOLDS_525">525</a>.</li> +</ul> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#CANDIES_MADE_FROM_SUGAR_526"><i>Candies made from Sugar Boiled to the Crack or the Caramel.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Peppermint drops, <a href="#PEPPERMINT_DROPS_526">526</a>.</li> + <li>Carameled nuts, <a href="#CARAMELED_NUTS_526">526</a>.</li> + <li>Almond hardbake, <a href="#ALMOND_HARDBAKE_526">526</a>.</li> + <li>Peanut candy, <a href="#PEANUT_CANDY_527">527</a>.</li> + <li>Taffy, <a href="#TAFFY_527">527</a>.</li> + <li>Molasses candy, <a href="#MOLASSES_CANDY_527">527</a>.</li> + <li>Candied orange and lemon peel, <a href="#CANDIED_ORANGE_OR_LEMON_PEEL_527">527</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h3 class="indexchap"><a href="#Chapter_XXIV">CHAPTER XXIV.</a></h3> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#FRUITS_529"><i>Fruits.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>General remarks, <a href="#FRUITS_529">529</a>.</li> + <li>Apples, <a href="#Apples_530">530</a>.</li> + <li>Oranges, <a href="#Oranges_530">530</a>.</li> + <li>Grape fruit, <a href="#grape-fruit_530">530</a>.</li> + <li>Peaches, <a href="#Peaches_530">530</a>.</li> + <li>Strawberries, <a href="#Strawberries_530">530</a>.</li> + <li>Berries, <a href="#Berries_531">531</a>.</li> + <li>Currants, <a href="#Currants_531">531</a>.</li> + <li>Bananas, sliced, sautéd, fried, <a href="#Bananas_531">531</a>.</li> + <li>Stewed figs, <a href="#Stewed_figs_531">531</a>.</li> + <li>Salpicon of fruits, <a href="#Salpicon_of_fruits_532">532</a>.</li> + <li>Melons, <a href="#Melons_532">532</a>.</li> + <li>Frozen fruits, <a href="#Frozen_fruits_532">532</a>.</li> + <li>Quinces, baked, <a href="#Quinces_baked_532">532</a>.</li> + <li>Nuts, <a href="#Nuts_532">532</a>.</li> + <li>Salted almonds, <a href="#Salted_almonds_533">533</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad1">“</span> <span class="pad1-5">“</span> No. 2, <a href="#Salted_almonds_No_2_533">533</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad1">“</span> English walnuts and filberts, <a href="#Salted_English_walnuts_533">533</a>.</li> + <li>Salpicon of fruit punch, <a href="#SALPICON_OF_FRUIT_PUNCH_533">533</a>.</li> + <li>Punch of white California canned cherries, <a href="#PUNCH_OF_WHITE_CALIFORNIA_CANNED_CHERRIES_534">534</a>.</li> + <li>Jellied fruit, <a name="corr109" id="corr109"></a><a href="#JELLIED_FRUIT_534">534</a>.</li> + <li>Fruit juices, <a href="#FRUIT_JUICES_534">534</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h3 class="indexchap"><a href="#Chapter_XXV">CHAPTER XXV.</a></h3> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#Chapter_XXV"><i>Compotes—Preserving and Canning—Pickles.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Compotes, <a href="#COMPOTES_535">535</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Compote of apples, <a href="#APPLE_COMPOTE_535">535</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1-5">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> pears, <a href="#COMPOTE_OF_PEARS_536">536</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1-5">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> oranges, <a href="#COMPOTE_OF_ORANGES_536">536</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead"><span class="pad1-5">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> peaches and apricots, <a href="#COMPOTE_OF_PEACHES_536">536</a>.</li> + <li>Preserving and canning, <a href="#PRESERVING_AND_CANNING_536">536</a>.</li> + <li>Preserved peaches, <a href="#PRESERVED_PEACHES_537">537</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad2">“</span> pears, <a href="#PRESERVED_PEARS_538">538</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad2">“</span> plums, <a href="#PRESERVED_PLUMS_538">538</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad2">“</span> grapes, <a href="#GRAPE_PRESERVES_539">539</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad2">“</span> strawberries No. 1, <a href="#PRESERVED_STRAWBERRIES_No_1_539">539</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad2">“</span> strawberries No. 2, <a href="#PRESERVED_STRAWBERRIES_No_2_540">540</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad2">“</span> raspberries, <a href="#RASPBERRY_PRESERVE_540">540</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad2">“</span> citron, <a href="#CITRON_PRESERVE_540">540</a>.</li> + <li>Canning, <a href="#CANNING_540">540</a>.</li> + <li>Jams or marmalades, <a href="#JAMS_OR_MARMALADES_541">541</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Quince marmalade, <a href="#QUINCE_MARMALADE_542">542</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Orange “ <a href="#ORANGE_MARMALADE_542">542</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Apple “ <a href="#APPLE_MARMALADE_543">543</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Brandy peaches, <a href="#BRANDY_PEACHES_543">543</a>.</li> + <li>Jellies, <a href="#JELLIES_543">543</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Currant or berries, <a href="#CURRANT_OR_ANY_BERRIES_543">543</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Apple jelly, <a href="#APPLE_JELLY_544">544</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Crab-apple jelly, <a href="#CRAB-APPLE_JELLY_544">544</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Quince jelly, <a href="#QUINCE_JELLY_544">544</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Spiced grapes, <a href="#SPICED_GRAPES_544">544</a>.</li> + <li class="subhead">Plum sauce for meats, <a href="#PLUM_SAUCE_FOR_MEATS_544">544</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#SWEET_PICKLED_PEACHES_545"><i>Pickles.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Sweet pickled peaches and plums, <a href="#SWEET_PICKLED_PEACHES_545">545</a>.</li> + <li>Pickled walnuts, <a href="#PICKLED_WALNUTS_545">545</a>.</li> + <li> <span class="pad1">“</span> cucumbers or gherkins, <a href="#CUCUMBER_OR_GHERKIN_PICKLES_545">545</a>.</li> + <li>Green tomato pickles, <a name="corr110" id="corr110"></a><a href="#GREEN_TOMATO_PICKLE_546">546</a>.</li> + <li>Chow-chow, <a href="#CHOW-CHOW_546">546</a>.</li> + <li>Nasturtium pickle, <a href="#NASTURTIUM_PICKLE_547">547</a>.</li> +</ul> + + +<h3 class="indexchap"><a href="#Chapter_XXVI">CHAPTER XXVI.</a></h3> + +<h4 class="indexsection"><a href="#Chapter_XXVI"><i>Beverages.</i></a></h4> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Filtered water, <a href="#FILTERED_WATER_548">548</a>.</li> + <li>To freeze carafes, <a href="#TO_FREEZE_CARAFES_548">548</a>.</li> + <li>Tea, <a href="#TEA_549">549</a>.</li> + <li>The tea bag, <a href="#The_tea-bag_550">550</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad0-5">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> ball, <a href="#The_tea-ball_550">550</a>.</li> + <li>Russian tea, <a href="#Russian_tea_550">550</a>.</li> + <li>Tea punch, <a href="#Tea_punch_550">550</a>.</li> + <li>Iced tea, <a href="#Iced_tea_550">550</a>.</li> + <li>Coffee, <a href="#COFFEE_551">551</a>.</li> + <li>Care of coffee beans, <a href="#CARE_OF_THE_COFFEE-BEAN_551">551</a>.</li> + <li>Coffee mixtures and brands, <a href="#COFFEE_MIXTURES_551">551</a>.</li> + <li>To make coffee, <a href="#TO_MAKE_COFFEE_551">551</a>.</li> + <li>Drip coffee, <a href="#DRIP_COFFEE_552">552</a>.</li> + <li>Boiled <span class="pad0-5">“</span> <a href="#BOILED_COFFEE_553">553</a>.</li> + <li>Iced café au lait, <a href="#ICED_CAFE_AU_LAIT_553">553</a>.</li> + <li>Chocolate, <a href="#CHOCOLATE_553">553</a>.</li> + <li>Cocoa, <a href="#COCOA_554">554</a>.</li> + <li>Lemonade, <a href="#LEMONADE_554">554</a>.</li> + <li>Orangeade, <a href="#ORANGEADE_554">554</a>.</li> + <li>Cobblers, <a href="#COBBLERS_554">554</a>.</li> + <li>Claret cup No. 1, <a href="#CLARET_CUP_No_1_555">555</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad1">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> 2, <a href="#CLARET_CUP_No_2_555">555</a>.</li> + <li>Champagne cup No. 1, <a href="#CHAMPAGNE_CUP_No_1_555">555</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad2">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> <span class="pad0-5">“</span> 2, <a href="#CHAMPAGNE_CUP_No_2_555">555</a>.</li> + <li>Moselle cup, <a href="#MOSELLE_CUP_555">555</a>.</li> + <li>Sauterne cup, <a href="#SAUTERNE_CUP_556">556</a>.</li> + <li>Cider cup, <a href="#CIDER_CUP_556">556</a>.</li> + <li>The Thorp cocktail, <a href="#THE_THORP_COCKTAIL_556">556</a>.</li> + <li>Egg-nog, <a href="#EGG-NOG_557">557</a>.</li> + <li>Milk shake, <a href="#MILK_SHAKE_557">557</a>.</li> + <li><span class="pad0-5">“</span> punch, <a href="#MILK_PUNCH_557">557</a>.</li> + <li>Fruit syrups, <a href="#FRUIT_SYRUPS_557">557</a>.</li> + <li>Grape juice, <a href="#GRAPE-JUICE_557">557</a>.</li> + <li>Raspberry vinegar, <a href="#RASPBERRY_VINEGAR_558">558</a>.</li> + <li>Koumiss, <a href="#KOUMISS_558">558</a>.</li> + <li>Wines, <a href="#WINES_560">560</a>.</li> +</ul> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<div class="tn"> +<p class="titlepage"><a name="trans_note" id="trans_note"></a><b>Transcriber’s Note</b></p> + +<p class="noindent">The following typographical errors were corrected.</p> + +<table class="tntable" summary="typos"> +<tr> + <td>Page</td> + <td>Error</td> + <td>Correction</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr1">iii</a></td> + <td>household affairs</td> + <td>household affairs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr2">6</a></td> + <td>Mr. and Mrs James’s</td> + <td>Mr. and Mrs. James’s</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr3">19</a></td> + <td>decorated-dinner table</td> + <td>decorated dinner-table</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr4">32</a></td> + <td>Foies-Gras</td> + <td>Foie Gras</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr5">32</a></td> + <td>Chocolate Pralinée</td> + <td>Chocolate Pralinée.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr6">42</a></td> + <td>potato soup, page 103</td> + <td>potato soup, page 103</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr7">48</a></td> + <td>1 lb</td> + <td>1 lb.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr8">79</a></td> + <td>tablepoonfuls of water</td> + <td>tablespoonfuls of water</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr9">87</a></td> + <td>seive</td> + <td>sieve</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr10">104</a></td> + <td>clam broth, page 100</td> + <td>clam broth, page 95</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr11">108</a></td> + <td>Footnote 108-1</td> + <td>108-* both in text and footnote</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr12">125</a></td> + <td>took-pick</td> + <td>tooth-pick</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr13">130</a></td> + <td>illustration page 324</td> + <td>illustration page 322</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr14">130</a></td> + <td>macedoine</td> + <td>macédoine</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr15">145</a></td> + <td>Seasoning</td> + <td>Seasoning.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr16">148</a></td> + <td>if requested,</td> + <td>if requested.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr17">208</a></td> + <td>size of the to-tomatoes</td> + <td>size of the tomatoes</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr18">219</a></td> + <td>pan with, butter,</td> + <td>pan with butter,</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr19">223</a></td> + <td>cupful of farina</td> + <td>cupful of farina.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr20">223</a></td> + <td>cupfuls of milk</td> + <td>cupfuls of milk.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr21">226</a></td> + <td>tablepoonfuls of butter</td> + <td>tablespoonfuls of butter</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr22">273</a></td> + <td>BEURRE NOIR.</td> + <td>BEURRE NOIR</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr23">308</a></td> + <td>PÂTE</td> + <td>PÂTÉ</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr24">316</a></td> + <td>make an excellent,</td> + <td>make an excellent</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr25">349</a></td> + <td>cold color</td> + <td>gold color</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr26">359</a></td> + <td>lukewarm water,</td> + <td>lukewarm water.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr27">378</a></td> + <td>MACEDOINE</td> + <td>MACÉDOINE</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr28">384</a></td> + <td>MACEDOINE</td> + <td>MACÉDOINE</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr29">385</a></td> + <td>BIRDS-NEST</td> + <td>BIRD’S-NEST</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr30">397</a></td> + <td>(NO. 1).</td> + <td>(NO. 1.)</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr31">411</a></td> + <td>page 393).</td> + <td>page 393),</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr32">436</a></td> + <td>teaspoonful of vanilla</td> + <td>teaspoonful of vanilla.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr33">445</a></td> + <td>2 egg yolks</td> + <td>2 egg yolks.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr34">473</a></td> + <td>citron (sliced)</td> + <td>citron (sliced).</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr35">506</a></td> + <td>fruit is mixed in,</td> + <td>fruit is mixed in.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr36">565</a></td> + <td>Hard-bake, 526.</td> + <td>Hardbake 526.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr37">565</a></td> + <td>Flaming, 433.</td> + <td>Flaming, 432.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr38">565</a></td> + <td>Calf’shead, 175.</td> + <td>Calf’s head, 175.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr39">565</a></td> + <td>Cucumbers, 208.</td> + <td>Cucumbers, 218.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr40">565</a></td> + <td><b>Boston brownbread</b></td> + <td><b>Boston brown bread</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr41">565</a></td> + <td>Braising, 71.</td> + <td><b>Braising</b>, 71.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr42">566</a></td> + <td>Little pound cakes</td> + <td>Little pound-cakes</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr43">566</a></td> + <td><b>Caramel</b>, 78, 391, 512.</td> + <td><b>Caramel</b>, 78, 391, 522.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr44">566</a></td> + <td>Filling, No. 1, 404,</td> + <td>Filling, No. 1, 404.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr45">567</a></td> + <td>Leggs stuffed</td> + <td>Legs stuffed</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr46">567</a></td> + <td>No. 3. 485.</td> + <td>No. 3, 485.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr47">567</a></td> + <td><b>Coffee</b>, 551,</td> + <td><b>Coffee</b>, 551.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr48">567</a></td> + <td>Slaw, 398.</td> + <td>Slaw, 378.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr49">567</a></td> + <td colspan="2">Toast, 334. moved to proper alphabetical posistion under <b>Crabs</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr50">567</a></td> + <td>No. 2 297.</td> + <td>No. 2, 297.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr51">568</a></td> + <td>Rolls, 323.</td> + <td>Rolls, 328.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr52">568</a></td> + <td>With baking powder, 179.</td> + <td>With baking powder, 170.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr53">568</a></td> + <td><b>Éclairs</b>, 470.</td> + <td><b>Éclairs</b>, 473.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr54">568</a></td> + <td>Nogg, 557.</td> + <td>Nog, 557.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr55">568</a></td> + <td>Omelet, 263.</td> + <td>Omelet, 264.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr56">568</a></td> + <td>Enterprize chopper</td> + <td>Enterprise chopper</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr57">568</a></td> + <td>Farinacious</td> + <td>Farinaceous</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr58">568</a></td> + <td><b>Figs</b>, 591.</td> + <td><b>Figs</b>, 531.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr59">569</a></td> + <td>No 2, 247.</td> + <td>No. 2, 247.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr60">569</a></td> + <td>Plum pudding glacé, 590.</td> + <td>Plum pudding glacé, 500.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr61">570</a></td> + <td>No. 3, 223.</td> + <td>No. 3, 227.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr62">570</a></td> + <td>Inexpensive dinners, 47, 352.</td> + <td>Inexpensive dinners, 47, 249.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr63">570</a></td> + <td><b>Milk</b>, 54, 58, 63.</td> + <td><b>Milk</b>, 54, 58, 389.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr64">570</a></td> + <td><b>Mustard sauce</b>, 285.</td> + <td><b>Mustard sauce</b>, 284.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr65">571</a></td> + <td>Rechauffé</td> + <td>Réchauffé</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr66">571</a></td> + <td>Glacé, 56</td> + <td>Glacé, 516</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr67">571</a></td> + <td><b>Orange cake</b>, 469.</td> + <td>subentry Cake, 469.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr68">571</a></td> + <td>Oxtail</td> + <td>Ox-tail</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr69">572</a></td> + <td><b>Plum sauce for meats</b>, 444.</td> + <td><b>Plum sauce for meats</b>, 544.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr70">572</a></td> + <td>“ glacé, 590.</td> + <td>“ glacé, 500.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr71">572</a></td> + <td><b>Pound cakes, small</b>, 478,</td> + <td><b>Pound cakes, small</b>, 478.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr72">572</a></td> + <td><b>Puff paste</b></td> + <td><b>Puff-paste</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr73">572</a></td> + <td><b>Quails broiled</b>, 192.</td> + <td><b>Quails broiled</b>, 198.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr74">572</a></td> + <td>Rechauffé</td> + <td>Réchauffé</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr75">572</a></td> + <td>remarks about, 373</td> + <td>remarks about, 374</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr76">573</a></td> + <td><b>Sauces for meats</b>, 375.</td> + <td><b>Sauces for meats</b>, 275.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr77">573</a></td> + <td><b>Sauces</b>, 375.</td> + <td><b>Sauces</b>, 275.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr78">573</a></td> + <td colspan="2"><b>Pudding sauces, sweet</b>, 444. moved to spot as subheading under <b>Sauces</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr79">574</a></td> + <td>corn, 107</td> + <td>corn, 106</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr80">574</a></td> + <td>Spinach, 166.</td> + <td>“ spinach, 106.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr81">574</a></td> + <td>String beans, 106.</td> + <td>“ string beans, 106.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr82">574</a></td> + <td>Suprème of, 419.</td> + <td>Suprême of, 419.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr83">574</a></td> + <td><b>Tart bands</b>, 400.</td> + <td><b>Tart bands</b>, 460.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr84">574</a></td> + <td>Five o’clock, 31.</td> + <td>Five o’clock, 33.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr85">574</a></td> + <td>General rules about, 312.</td> + <td>General rules about, 311.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr86">576</a></td> + <td>Vegetables, 33</td> + <td>Vegetables, 53</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr87">577</a></td> + <td>pot au feu</td> + <td>pot-au-feu</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr88">577</a></td> + <td>Fried smelts on skewers, 118.</td> + <td>Fried smelts on skewers, 117.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr89">578</a></td> + <td>fish-balls</td> + <td>fish balls (2 times)</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr90">578</a></td> + <td>A plain potpie</td> + <td>A plain pot-pie</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr91">578</a></td> + <td>Dumplings with suet, 171</td> + <td>Dumplings with suet, 170</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr92">578</a></td> + <td>Veal scallop, 171</td> + <td>Veal scallop, 172</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr93">580</a></td> + <td>Fish-balls</td> + <td>Fish balls</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr94">580</a></td> + <td>rechauffé</td> + <td>réchauffé</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr95">580</a></td> + <td>A boiled Indian pudding, 239.</td> + <td>A boiled Indian pudding, 240.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr96">580</a></td> + <td>A baked Indian pudding, 239.</td> + <td>A baked Indian pudding, 240.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr97">580</a></td> + <td>Instantaneous frosting, 244.</td> + <td>Instantaneous frosting, 245.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr98">581</a></td> + <td>making, 292,</td> + <td>making, 292.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr99">583</a></td> + <td>Raw-beef</td> + <td>Raw beef</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr100">584</a></td> + <td>Orange salad, 381.</td> + <td>Orange salad, 382.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr101">584</a></td> + <td>making desserts, 387.</td> + <td>making desserts, 386.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr102">584</a></td> + <td>Utensils, 387.</td> + <td>Utensils, 386.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr103">584</a></td> + <td>store closet</td> + <td>store-closet</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr104">584</a></td> + <td>Floating island, 396.</td> + <td>Floating island, 395.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr105">584</a></td> + <td>Chocolate custard, 396.</td> + <td>Chocolate custard, 395.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr106">585</a></td> + <td>rice pudding No 1</td> + <td>rice pudding No. 1</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr107">586</a></td> + <td>Meringue sauce, 449.</td> + <td>Meringue sauce, 448.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr108">587</a></td> + <td>Impératrice</td> + <td>Imperatrice</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr109">588</a></td> + <td>Salpicon of fruit punch, 534.</td> + <td>Salpicon of fruit punch, 533.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr110">588</a></td> + <td>Green tomato pickles, 456.</td> + <td>Green tomato pickles, 546.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p class="noindent"><b>Other inconsistencies</b></p> + +<p class="noindent">The price for milk is given as $0.02 per cup on p. 47 and $0.04 per cup +on p. 48.</p> + +<p class="noindent">The price for sugar is given variously as $0.02 per cup (p. 47, 48) and +$0.04 per cup (p. 48)</p> + +<p class="noindent">Irregularities in the alphabetization in the Alphabetical Index +have been left as printed.</p> + + +<p class="noindent"><b>Other changes</b></p> + +<p class="noindent">Footnotes were moved to the end of the chapters.</p> + +<p class="noindent">The NOTE that appeared at the bottom of p. 364 was moved to p. 366 and +placed at the end of the section on sandwiches.</p> + +<p class="noindent">The NOTE that appeared at the bottom of p. 495 was moved to follow the +recipe for Vanilla Ice-Cream No. 1.</p> + + +<p class="noindent">The following words were inconsistently spelled or hyphenated:</p> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>air-bubbles / air bubbles</li> + <li>air-cells / air cells</li> + <li>apple-dumplings / apple dumplings</li> + <li>apple-sauce / apple sauce</li> + <li>baking-dish / baking dish</li> + <li>baking-pan / baking pan</li> + <li>baking-powder / baking powder</li> + <li>baking-sheet / baking sheet</li> + <li>baking-soda / baking soda</li> + <li>baking-tin / baking tin</li> + <li>bean-pot / bean pot</li> + <li>biscuit-cutter / biscuit cutter</li> + <li>boiling-point / boiling point</li> + <li>boiling-hot / boiling hot</li> + <li>border-mold / border mold</li> + <li>bread-boxes / bread boxes</li> + <li>bread-crumbs / bread crumbs</li> + <li>bread-dough / bread dough</li> + <li>breast-bone / breastbone</li> + <li>broom-straw / broom straw</li> + <li>CALF’S-HEAD / CALF’S HEAD</li> + <li>celery-tops / celery tops</li> + <li>center-piece / centerpiece</li> + <li>cheese-cloth / cheesecloth / cheese cloth</li> + <li>close-fitting / close fitting</li> + <li>cold-slaw / cold slaw</li> + <li>corn-meal / cornmeal</li> + <li>Corn-meal / Cornmeal</li> + <li>corn-starch / cornstarch / corn starch</li> + <li>Corn-starch / Cornstarch</li> + <li>CORN-STARCH / CORNSTARCH</li> + <li>cracker-crumbs / cracker crumbs</li> + <li>cream-cake / cream cake</li> + <li><i>croûte-au-pot</i> / croûte au pot</li> + <li>dessert-spoonful / dessertspoonful</li> + <li>diamond-shaped / diamond shaped</li> + <li>egg-dishes / egg dishes</li> + <li>egg-white / egg white</li> + <li>egg-yolks / egg yolks</li> + <li>filter-paper / filter paper</li> + <li>force-meat / forcemeat</li> + <li>Force-meat / Forcemeat</li> + <li>FORCE-MEAT / FORCEMEAT</li> + <li>fruit-juices / fruit juices</li> + <li>fruit-pulp / fruit pulp</li> + <li>frying-basket / frying basket</li> + <li>frying-pan / frying pan</li> + <li>granite-ware / graniteware</li> + <li>half-shell / half shell</li> + <li>Half-shell / Half shell</li> + <li>hard-ball / hard ball</li> + <li>horse-radish / horseradish</li> + <li>Ice-Cream / Ice Cream</li> + <li>ice-cream / ice cream</li> + <li>ice-water / ice water</li> + <li>layer-cake / layer cake</li> + <li>layer-cakes / layer cakes</li> + <li>lemon-juice / lemon juice</li> + <li>lemon-peel / lemon peel</li> + <li>lemon-rind / lemon rind</li> + <li>lemon-zest / lemon zest</li> + <li>lettuce-leaves / lettuce leaves</li> + <li>measuring-cup / measuring cup</li> + <li>medium-sized / medium sized</li> + <li>meringue / méringue</li> + <li>meringues / méringues</li> + <li>mock-turtle / mock turtle</li> + <li>muffin-ring / muffin ring</li> + <li>onion-juice / onion juice</li> + <li>orange-cake / orange cake</li> + <li>orange-juice / orange juice</li> + <li>orange-peel / orange peel</li> + <li>oyster-liquor / oyster liquor</li> + <li>pastry-bag / pastry bag</li> + <li>pie-dish / pie dish</li> + <li>pie-dishes / pie dishes</li> + <li>potato-balls / potato balls</li> + <li>potato-masher / potato masher</li> + <li>potato-press / potato press</li> + <li>potato-scoop / potato scoop</li> + <li>pudding-dish / pudding dish</li> + <li>pudding-mold / pudding mold</li> + <li>puff-paste / puff paste</li> + <li>ragoût / ragout</li> + <li>Ragoût / Ragout</li> + <li>RAGOÛT / RAGOUT</li> + <li>rice-pudding / rice pudding</li> + <li>ring-mold / ring mold</li> + <li>rolling-pin / rolling pin</li> + <li>rose-leaves / rose leaves</li> + <li>rose-petals / rose petals</li> + <li>rose-water / rosewater</li> + <li>sauce-boat / sauceboat</li> + <li>sauté-pan / sauté pan</li> + <li>scalding-point / scalding point</li> + <li>serving-dish / serving dish</li> + <li>serving-dishes / serving dishes</li> + <li>simmering-point / simmering point</li> + <li>smoking-hot / smoking hot</li> + <li>soft-ball / soft ball</li> + <li>soup-pot / soup pot</li> + <li>sponge-cake / sponge cake</li> + <li>sponge-cakes / sponge cakes</li> + <li>starch-grains / starch grains</li> + <li>stew-pan / stewpan / stew pan</li> + <li>sweet-breads / sweetbreads</li> + <li>stock-pot / stock pot</li> + <li>string-beans / string beans</li> + <li>sweet-oil / sweet oil</li> + <li>tail-shells / tail shells</li> + <li>Tart-rings / Tart rings</li> + <li>terrapin-eggs / terrapin eggs</li> + <li>timbale-mold / timbale mold</li> + <li>timbale-molds / timbale molds</li> + <li>tin-foil / tinfoil</li> + <li>tooth-pick / toothpick</li> + <li>water-cress / watercress</li> + <li>water-ices / water ices</li> + <li>wine-glass / wineglass</li> + <li>Woodenware / Wooden ware</li> + <li>yeast-cake / yeast cake</li> + <li>yeast-cakes / yeast cakes</li> +</ul> +</div> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Century Cook Book, by Mary Ronald + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CENTURY 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