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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Paper-Cutting Machines, by Niel, Jr., Gray
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Paper-Cutting Machines
+       A Primer of Information about Paper and Card Trimmers, Hand-Lever Cutters, Power Cutters and Other Automatic Machines for Cutting Paper (Typographic Technical Series Part 1, No. 10)
+
+
+Author: Niel, Jr., Gray
+
+
+
+Release Date: December 28, 2010  [eBook #34774]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PAPER-CUTTING MACHINES***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Barbara Tozier, Bill Tozier, and the Online Distributed
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+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
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+
+
+
+Typographic Technical Series for Apprentices--Part 1, No. 10
+
+PAPER-CUTTING MACHINES
+
+A Primer of Information about Paper and Card Trimmers, Hand-Lever
+Cutters, Power Cutters and Other Automatic Machines for Cutting Paper
+
+by
+
+NIEL GRAY, Jr.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Published by the Committee on Education
+United Typothetae of America
+1918
+
+Copyright, 1918
+United Typothetae of America
+Chicago, Ill.
+
+Composition and electrotypes contributed by
+The Stone Printing and Manufacturing Company
+Roanoke, Va.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+The paper-cutting machine is a recent development in the industrial
+world. Its importance in the graphic arts is only just being
+recognized. That it has heretofore been considered an apparatus of
+minor importance is proven by the lack of information on the subject,
+either historical or technical. No mention is made of a paper-cutting
+machine in the eleventh edition of the Encyclopædia Britannica, either
+in the index or under the various trade headings. Mention is omitted
+entirely from De Vinne's History of Printing. There are no references
+to it in many other standard books, nor in the engineering libraries;
+neither are there any comprehensive articles on the subject in any of
+the trade journals, either American or foreign. A few scattered
+references may be found in dictionaries and manuals having to do with
+bookbinding and presswork.
+
+This manual on the paper-cutting machine has the distinction of being,
+as far as the author knows, the first book ever written on the
+subject. It will endeavor to help toward a better understanding of
+this important mechanism, its use and care, and it may also serve as
+a starting point from which subsequent treatises may be written.
+
+The difficulty of making a successful machine of this kind to meet the
+new demands for accuracy, speed, convenience, and safety, has been
+overcome gradually in recent years and there are now several machines
+quite efficient and adequate to meet these demands of the modern
+manufacturer. To coördinate a number of inanimate pieces of steel and
+iron, to operate at high speed with precision, requires fine skill.
+The evolution from the first cutting machine--the old hand-operated
+wooden plough and press--to the present power-driven steel mechanism
+is like the advance from the old wooden sailing vessel to the modern
+steel ship.
+
+The objects of this manual are to acquaint the beginner with the
+essential features of the machine itself and to provide clear,
+comprehensive information which will enable him to become a competent
+operator. It is not possible within so small a book to give complete
+detailed instructions for all the different conditions which may arise
+in the many kinds of work done in establishments where paper-cutting
+machines are used. Each of these places has its own particular
+requirements; and while the machine can do its part quickly and
+efficiently it needs the intelligent and skillful operator to get good
+results. The instructions given herein for a few cases, which have
+been made as general as possible, indicate the complexity of this
+operation as carried on in modern workshops. There is necessity for a
+careful study of the subject in any important industry to insure this
+part of the work being successful and profitable.
+
+Not all the kinds of cutting machines in use in the printing and
+bindery industries are considered in the following pages, but simply
+the typical machines in common use for cutting and trimming printed
+paper. There are many other styles, such as die-cutting presses,
+automatic book-trimming machines, punching, stabbing, and eyeletting
+machines, rotary cutters and revolving-blade cutters attached to
+presses and other paper machines. These might properly be classed
+under the title, but as they are chiefly specialized machines the
+limits of space do not permit a consideration of them here.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+                                                    PAGE
+
+IMPORTANCE OF THE PAPER CUTTER                         7
+
+EVOLUTION OF THE PAPER-CUTTING MACHINE                 8
+
+DESCRIPTION OF TYPICAL MACHINES                       11
+
+THE KNIFE                                             16
+
+GRINDING PAPER-CUTTER KNIVES                          21
+
+HONING PAPER-CUTTER KNIVES                            22
+
+THE CLAMPING PRESSURE                                 23
+
+CUTTING STICKS                                        25
+
+THE BACK GAGE                                         25
+
+POWER BACK GAGE MOVEMENT                              28
+
+SPECIAL DEVICES                                       28
+
+APPLICATION OF POWER                                  30
+
+CARE OF THE MACHINE                                   32
+
+OPERATING THE MACHINE                                 35
+
+SAFETY OF THE KNIFE                                   37
+
+HANDLING PAPER                                        38
+
+TO CUT A PILE INTO STRIPS OF EQUAL WIDTH              43
+
+TO CUT A PILE RECTANGULAR                             44
+
+TO SQUARE A PILE                                      45
+
+TO CUT UNUSUAL SHAPES                                 46
+
+TRIMMING BOOKS                                        46
+
+PAPER CUTTINGS AND WASTE                              50
+
+DEPRECIATION OF A PAPER-CUTTING MACHINE               51
+
+REVIEW QUESTIONS                                      53
+
+GLOSSARY OF TERMS USED                                58
+
+
+
+
+PAPER-CUTTING MACHINES
+
+
+
+
+_Importance of the Paper Cutter_
+
+
+A paper-cutting machine is used for dividing piles of large sized
+sheets into smaller sized sheets; also for squaring a pile; _i.e._,
+making all four corners rectangular; and for trimming off irregular or
+incorrect edges.
+
+It increases the possible printing output largely because presses of
+large size can now print many duplicates of a single design on a single
+sheet, and many of these sheets piled can be separated at a single cut,
+whereas a fly or rotating cutter cuts but one sheet at a time.
+
+The importance of the paper-cutting machine can hardly be overestimated.
+The correct position of the printed matter, the widths of head, tail,
+and fore edge may be destroyed by careless cutting. Friendly
+coöperation with every department is necessary to produce good work.
+No matter how fine the printing and color work is, if the margins are
+uneven and the folds mismatched, then the resulting air of slovenliness
+discredits the entire work. The final touch that gives the character to
+a piece of printed matter is the way it is trimmed.
+
+Modern power automatic-clamp cutting machines, in spite of the high
+speed of their operation, are able to cut with absolute accuracy.
+Perhaps on no other machine will a little careful study return so large
+a profit in dollars and cents.
+
+
+
+
+_Evolution of the Paper-Cutting Machine_
+
+
+The practice of cutting paper began long before the making of the book
+of bound leaves, and the necessity of making a number of sheets of the
+same size called for some mechanical means of cutting and trimming. The
+earliest cutting machine was no doubt a sharp stone or a stick; then a
+piece of metal, dragged across the parchment, with a guide to keep the
+cut in a straight line. The sheet was simply held by the hand, and
+later the straight-edge formed a clamp also.
+
+About the fifth century the important step of folding the vellum into
+leaves became the practice. The instrument which we know to-day as
+scissors or shears probably had a large part to do in these early
+operations. With the invention of printing and the multiplication of
+books larger and stronger means were necessary to cut the sheets.
+Although the book with the untrimmed sheets was the rule of this
+earlier time, and of a later time, for the smaller books and for
+divisions of the sheet a cutter was necessary.
+
+For a time the cutting of piles of paper was done by hand with a knife,
+a small pile being put upon a table and a weight laid upon it. The
+operator leaned his weight with one hand upon it, while he cut with the
+other. The earliest attempt to improve this consisted of a table, a
+framework of wood or metal above it, having a groove in which the knife
+could be worked, and a screw clamp to hold the pile. The knife was
+originally short; then longer, until it became long enough to cut
+through the thickness of the book. The deckle-edge of the earlier and
+untrimmed books was improved upon and made easier to turn over and
+refer to rapidly by the improvement of trimming the leaves. The
+hand-plough cutter was probably the first successful machine intended
+to cut a number of sheets at a time.
+
+In the Haupt Halle at the great Graphic Arts Exhibition, Leipzig, 1914,
+were some illustrations showing the earliest German cutting machines
+and their evolution to date. The earliest among them is the lightly
+constructed hand-driven vertical cutter of 1855. This consisted of two
+side frames, the knife-bar guides in their slots and a large hand wheel
+at the right. The next stage was a cutter of 1876, a hand-driven wheel
+at the right turning gears above and outside the table. A crank and
+a rod connected to the center top of the knife-bar pulled the knife
+in the direction of the two slots in the knife-bar, giving it a
+shearing motion. This model is the same as that used by most German
+manufacturers for both hand and power-driven cutters until within a few
+years, when the greatly improved, rapid, and more convenient American
+examples became known.
+
+From simply pressing with the hand to hold the sheets the hand clamp
+was evolved; then the clamp was attached to a gear by which it could
+be held down on the sheets with greater and steadier pressure. To
+quicken this operation the spring clamp was devised, with automatic
+pressure--fixed at first, then variable to suit varying requirements.
+
+Perhaps the most signal advance in the art of paper-cutting machinery
+that has been made is the invention of Samuel R. Brown, who devised the
+fixed "throw" of the knife by means of two cranks at opposite ends of a
+shaft parallel with the knife. This control of the knife enables a hair
+to be cut through, or half through, or the knife edge to just touch it,
+with remarkable precision. The various other mechanical connections for
+power-cutting machines between the pulley and the knife, consisting of
+rolls, slots, guides, cams, chains, levers, etc., all require a great
+number of parts between the pulley and the knife, with the consequent
+and necessary "looseness" of the mechanism. This allows, after short
+wear, a play or "chug" of the knife which quickly tends to destroy its
+best cutting abilities.
+
+The evolution of the cutting machine has been rapid and distinctly
+marked in all its essential features, from the oscillating plough to
+the vertical stroke, to the shear stroke, to the double-shear stroke;
+from a single-rod pull-down of the knife (by a chain, by a cam, or by a
+crank) to the two-rod pull-down by cams, rolls, slots, slides, to the
+cranks which give a fixed dependable stroke; to the cranks which give a
+fixed dependable stroke, and at the same time pull the knife endwise;
+from swinging-link shear to a straight-line shear; from man-drive to
+power-drive; from driving by power fixtures in front and outside the
+frame to fixtures located back and underneath; from low piles to high
+piles; from hand clamp to power clamp, to self clamp, to automatic
+clamp, finally to friction adjustable pressure clamp; from measuring by
+rule to the use of rapid automatic measuring and spacing devices.
+
+The best paper-cutting machine is designed with a knife motion operated
+by cranks which give an endwise pull to the knife; with the table of
+medium height; with quick and accurate adjustments for the knife; with
+a foot treadle for bringing the clamp down to the pile when desired
+to see exactly where the knife will strike; with an accurate and
+dependable device for moving the back gage and the pile and measuring
+quickly the widths to be cut; with starting handles easily reachable
+without bending; with a powerful clamping pressure automatic for all
+height piles and instantly adjustable for heavy or delicate work; with
+universal fine adjustments for squaring the back gage with the knife;
+with a simple change for the cutting stick; with the driving shaft
+running at a low speed; and with a powerful main driving clutch or
+friction material that will not cut or damage the parts under the
+heavy, constant thrusts.
+
+
+
+
+_Description of Typical Machines_
+
+
+PLOUGH AND PRESS CUTTER
+
+An early form of cutting machine, made almost entirely of wood. The
+pile of paper or book was clamped to the table by the upper cross-bar
+of the clamp, which was brought down by the geared vertical arm. As
+shown by picture, these arms were raised and lowered by turning the
+large toothed wheel. The steel chisel (A) operating in a holder running
+in a groove, was moved to and fro across the paper, cutting deeper each
+time as the chisel was gradually lowered by the handle.
+
+  [Illustration: Fig. 1. Plough and Press Cutter]
+
+
+CARD CUTTER OR TRIMMER
+
+Card trimmers are knives hinged at one end to a base upon which the
+work is laid and held, while the knife is pulled down by hand to shear
+it off against a metal edge. Stock cut this way has a slight burr on
+its lower edge, caused by the "drag" or downward pressure of the knife.
+
+  [Illustration: Fig. 2 Binder Shears or Table Cutter]
+
+  [Illustration: Fig. 3 Card Cutter and Trimmer]
+
+To cut cards free from burr a rotary card-cutting machine is used, with
+a rotating shaft carrying a small wheel cutter. These cutters are used
+on a workbench.
+
+  [Illustration: Fig. 4. Hand-Lever Cutter]
+
+  [Illustration: Fig. 5. Bench-Lever Cutter]
+
+
+HAND-LEVER CUTTER
+
+Hand-lever cutters stand on the floor and have a convenient height
+table to lay the work upon. The cut is made by pulling the knife down
+through the pile. The knife is hung from two swinging links, and is
+easily operated when it has double shear and a toggle crank connection
+to the hand-lever shaft.
+
+  [Illustration: Fig. 6
+  POWER CUTTING MACHINE (HAND-CLAMP)
+  Knife Pulled Down at One End]
+
+Power cutting machines substitute power fixtures for the hand
+(sometimes in addition to the hand operating fixtures), and eliminate
+labor and save time. A hand-clamp power cutter is operated first by
+screwing the clamp by hand down firmly upon the line where the work is
+to be cut; then pulling the starting lever, which causes the knife to
+make the cut, return to the top, and stop.
+
+  [Illustration: Fig. 7
+  POWER CUTTING MACHINE (HAND-CLAMP)
+  Knife Pulled at Both Ends]
+
+Semi-automatic means a cutting machine which has a treadle to bring the
+clamp down quickly upon the work, and a regular hand-clamping wheel
+instantly acting to produce the clamping pressure when it is turned a
+part of a revolution. The clamp returns automatically to the top by
+touching the treadle lightly with the foot and giving the clamping
+wheel a slight backward turn. The advantages are the simplicity of
+construction and operation of the regular hand-clamp machine, and a
+gain of about one-third greater output with one-third less effort.
+Automatic-clamp power cutting machines save labor by pressing the pile
+by power, instead of requiring the operator to screw the clamp down and
+back again by hand. In the larger sizes power attachments save the
+labor of pulling the back gage and work forward by hand. Automatic
+spacing (or measuring) devices for duplicating any desired width,
+without the customary measuring for each cut, enable larger production.
+
+  [Illustration: Fig.8
+  AUTOMATIC-CLAMP POWER CUTTING MACHINE
+  With Instantly Variable Automatic Clamping Device]
+
+An automatic power cutter is operated first by determining the line of
+the cut by the indicator or by pulling the clamp down upon the work;
+then pulling the starting lever, which automatically forces the clamp
+down first upon the stock, and then drives the knife through it, and
+returns both knife and clamp to stop at the top.
+
+Automatic-clamp power cutting machines are also furnished with
+hand-clamp attachment for special clamping pressures.
+
+Continuous running is effected by devices which permit the quick
+disengagement of the stop throw-out mechanism. This is desirable with
+duplicate work in quantities carefully arranged for fast production.
+Automatic cutting machines are also furnished with spacing devices for
+the rapid duplication of exact widths of any size.
+
+Vertical stroke (and vertical changeable to shear stroke) cutting
+machines (see Fig. 9, page 17), both hand power and also power, are
+used with special shaped knives for cutting fancy edges, and pinking
+cloth samples, etc., some having back tables of great length, moved on
+rollers or slides by spacing devices. Considerable ingenuity has been
+shown in the variable method and mechanism used for moving the knife up
+and down.
+
+
+
+
+_The Knife_
+
+
+The knife is most important. It must be kept sharp. It must be of the
+proper shape and thickness and bevel and temper and free from any burrs
+or lumps on its back edge. A cutting-machine knife is like a razor
+that, stropped correctly, does not pull the beard, but stropped an
+infinitesimally different way--a difference impossible to see except
+with a microscope--pulls hard. Study carefully the knife. No matter how
+carefully the machine is built, an imperfect knife cannot cut right.
+Most knives are imperfect in spite of the rigorous specifications given
+them by makers. They vary in thickness, straightness, concave, bevel,
+flatness, temper, and quality of steel; and also in the character of
+their sharpening and honing, which varies with the fineness or
+coarseness of the grinding wheel and stone. These variations need only
+be a few thousandths of an inch to cause trouble.
+
+  [Illustration: Fig. 9
+  VERTICAL-STROKE POWER MACHINE
+  Changeable to Double Shear]
+
+A blue wave mark indicates where the temper is drawn, and a file which
+"drags" when pushed fairly hard across the flat of the bevel indicates
+the soft spots, where the temper is imperfect.
+
+  [Illustration: Fig. 10
+  DIAGRAM SHOWING DOUBLE SHEAR STROKE OF THE
+  KNIFE PASSING OBLIQUELY THROUGH THE PILE
+
+  At the beginning of the stroke the knife is higher at the right-hand
+  side; when finishing the cut the knife is parallel to the table]
+
+To ascertain if a knife has a correct face, hold it flat, face up, with
+one end on a window ledge, and look along the face for variations. This
+is a simple matter which any one can do. Use a perfectly straight and
+clean-edged steel rule and pass it along from one end to the other as
+shown in Figs. 11 and 12. A dark spot shows the point of contact of the
+rule with the knife. These dark spots should show only exactly at the
+cutting edge and at the back edge. If a dark spot shows away from the
+cutting edge, it indicates that the knife is imperfect there and will
+not make a true cut. Regrinding the face by the makers can correct this
+fault, except where it is the fault of the one who hones the knife
+after it is sharpened.
+
+  [Illustration: Fig. 11]
+
+  [Illustration: Fig. 12]
+
+Hone the knife only on the bevel. To remove the wire edge burrs along
+the edge lay the hone flat on the face and rub gently so as not to
+round over the edge.
+
+A knife will sometimes cut better after it has been ground the first
+time. A polished knife will give a better surface to the cut. The
+cutting of the same kind of stock will often vary with different makes
+of knives. An oily rag tied to a stick kept handy and passed along the
+bevel of the knife before cutting hard stock will improve the cut. A
+blunt bevel is preferred for hard stock; a long, thin bevel for soft
+stock.
+
+A general rule for the length of bevel on knives is two and one-half
+times the thickness of the knife. This may be varied to suit the
+different materials to be cut, but must be held within reasonable
+limits to preserve the strength of the cutting edge of the knife and
+also to secure accurate, clean cutting.
+
+The face of a knife should be as nearly flat as possible and must not
+be convex. It is better to have it concave than convex, but not over
+two or three thousandths of an inch concave. A knife that is too
+concave or convex will tend to dig in or out of the work.
+
+For safe clearance the knife should be a few thousandths of an inch
+thinner at the top than the distance from its back to the line of its
+cutting edge.
+
+The knife bolts should always be screwed up snug, so that the cutting
+edge of the knife will have the correct pitch in relation to the pile.
+The top or back edge of a knife should be held absolutely straight to
+get a firm thrust--bearing all along the knife-bar. Knives abutting
+against adjusting screws for this reason are not apt to give so good
+results as knives that abut against a solid shoulder all across the
+knife-bar.
+
+Dirt, oil, grease, paper, chips, etc., in the knife-slot or bar, or a
+bruise or nick on the back edge of the knife, or a defective knife
+bolt, may prevent the knife seating firm and true in its proper place
+and may cause poor cutting.
+
+Knives bought from the maker of paper-cutting machines are apt to give
+the best results because they receive two inspections: one by the knife
+maker, and another by the machine maker, who is careful to see that
+only perfect knives are supplied.
+
+In order to understand how important it is to use a sharp knife on a
+power cutter, throw off the belt and pull the machine around by hand
+through a high cut with a dull knife. Then put in a sharp knife and
+make the same cut. Where there is much cutting to be done and the
+machine is in constant use, it is well to keep extra knives on hand to
+allow one to be sharpened while the other is being used.
+
+A specially tempered knife is best for boards or varnished paper.
+Gummed and varnished stock are likely to break small pieces off the
+knife edge. The double shear motion for the knife now furnished on the
+new automatic rapid production cutting machines practically eliminates
+this trouble.
+
+The first place to look when work is not cut true, after making sure
+there is correct clamping pressure, is the knife. See if it is sharp.
+See if it has been honed properly. See if it has the proper length of
+bevel.
+
+
+
+
+_Grinding Paper-Cutter Knives_
+
+
+It is best to grind with a soft sandstone; but if an emery wheel is
+used, it should be about 46-60 grain, 5-1/2 grade, or soft enough so
+that a light feed can be taken without burning or glazing the bevel of
+the knife.
+
+The operator of the grinding machine should be in constant attendance
+while the knife is being ground, and should have a liberal supply of
+water feeding on the wheel where it comes in contact with the bevel of
+the knife, not at the top of the wheel. If this supply of water is cut
+off and the wheel continues to grind without water, this will create
+friction, heat up, and draw the temper in the knife or crack it.
+
+Extra precaution should be taken to grind the cutting edge of the knife
+parallel with the back of the knife, and not have one end of the knife
+wider than the other. When this occurs the cutting edge of the knife
+does not hit the cutting stick squarely, and not only has a tendency to
+snip out at the wide end, but also to destroy the cutting stick
+quickly.
+
+The bevel should be ground flat or a shade concave, and must not exceed
+twice the thickness of the knife, plus one-quarter inch, or twenty-four
+degrees. If this rule is not adhered to and a longer bevel than this is
+ground on the knife, the flat side or face of the knife will become
+rounded about one-half inch back from the cutting edge, thereby taking
+the slight concave out of the knife and causing the machine to cut
+tapering; _i.e._, the top of the cut, say four or five inches high,
+will be narrower than the bottom of the cut.
+
+If a knife is ground on the rim of an ordinary emery wheel worn to a
+small diameter, the smallness of the emery wheel will tend to make the
+bevel concave. This weakens the edge of the knife. A knife grinder with
+a cup-shape emery wheel makes it easier to grind the bevel straight.
+
+
+
+
+_Honing Paper-Cutter Knives_
+
+
+Every knife, when coming direct from the grinding machine, has a wire
+edge which should be honed off before the knife is adjusted to the
+knife-bar. Excellent results in honing are obtained from No. 1 Washita
+oilstone (Pike Mfg. Co., N.H., U.S.A.), or an india oilstone made by
+W. H. Price, Hartford, Conn.
+
+The knife should be laid on a bench or table, flat side down, with the
+edge of the knife protruding about one-eighth of an inch beyond the
+edge of the table. The hone should be held flat on the bevel, and the
+motion should be a circular or rotary movement as well as up and down,
+and the honing should be done from one end to the other without lifting
+the hone from the knife.
+
+When a fine wire edge appears on the flat side, lay the hone on lightly
+with no pressure and absolutely flat, and draw from one end to the
+other. After honing the knife for a short time (four or five minutes)
+the wire edge will disappear or get so thin that a small piece of white
+pine or other soft wood, if drawn along the cutting edge, will
+eliminate this thin wire edge. Never hone the flat side of the knife.
+Never hone a knife while in the machine.
+
+A wooden holder for the oilstone will protect the fingers.
+
+For smooth "glass edge" cutting, the bevel of the knife may be ground
+slightly concave. Then hone thoroughly with an extra fine hone slightly
+convex in shape.
+
+No method of grinding has yet been devised which will leave a perfectly
+smooth surface, because no matter how fine the stone or material that
+is used for grinding it will leave marks on the edge of the knife, and
+these marks cause roughness in the cut. The reason the above method
+gives almost a perfectly smooth cut is because a thorough honing
+removes most of the marks.
+
+
+
+
+_The Clamping Pressure_
+
+
+The clamping of the stock in the machine while the cut is being made is
+an important feature of a modern paper cutter. This is done by means of
+a horizontal bar placed behind the knife and parallel with it. This
+clamping bar is moved up out of the way while the stock is being placed
+in position and is then brought down with the desired pressure to hold
+the pile of sheets firmly until the cut is made, and is again lifted up
+out of the way.
+
+In the simpler machines the clamping pressure is obtained by means of a
+stout vertical threaded rod to which the clamp bar is attached at the
+lower end. The rod is operated by a hand wheel at the top and turns in
+a threaded opening in the cross-head of the frame.
+
+Clamping pressures vary greatly under different conditions, from a
+light pressure to several tons. The ratio of the power applied in
+hand clamping to the pressure secured on the clamp is, in ordinary
+commercial machines, about 1 to 150 for small machines up to 32
+inches wide, using a 2-foot-diameter clamp wheel and overhead screw.
+The ratio of power in cutting machines 34 inches and wider, having a
+1-1/2-foot-diameter clamp wheel, and worm of 3/4-inch pitch at the
+side engaging a worm gear keyed to the clamp shaft, is about 1 to
+180. That is, a pull by the hand of 1 pound on the overhead clamp
+wheel will produce about 150 pounds pressure of the clamp on the
+stock to be cut; and a pull by the hand of 1 pound on the side
+clamping wheel will produce about 180 pounds pressure of the clamp,
+less friction. Operators will pull ordinarily from 10 to 100 pounds;
+_i.e._, producing a pressure of from one to nine tons.
+
+The first type of automatic-clamp cutting machines produced always the
+same arbitrary pressure on the clamp, with consequent waste of power,
+crushing and indenting the work, offsetting the ink unless it was
+absolutely dry, and requiring adjusting with a wrench, which was slow,
+dirty, and indefinite.
+
+All modern automatic-clamp cutting machines have independent
+automatic-clamp pressure, and these apply the pressure at both ends of
+the clamp. The earliest power clamps were called "self-clamp." In these
+the knife and clamp were connected together (_i.e._, dependent).
+The modern automatic-clamp mechanism is not only independent of the
+knife, but in addition practically all the power of the belt goes first
+to clamp the work and then afterwards to drive the knife through the
+cut. This separation of the clamping effort from the cutting effort
+increases efficiency and economy.
+
+By a modern device on some machines this clamping pressure is instantly
+variable to suit different kinds of stock and other conditions.
+
+
+
+
+_Cutting Sticks_
+
+
+The cutting stick, into which the knife passes after cutting through
+the bottom sheet, saves the edge from cutting on the iron table.
+
+Correctly designed cutting machines have knife-bar motions that permit
+no "chug" of the knife into the stick and thus conserve its sharp edge.
+Many designs, however, are faulty in this respect and the unrecorded
+expense of their operation is a serious leak.
+
+The cutting stick is set in a slot in the table. The most common and
+perhaps best form, everything considered, is a 3/4-inch square hard
+maple stick, set so that the knife strikes it 1/4-inch from the edge.
+All four faces of such a stick may be used.
+
+A metal frame for holding a 1/4-inch square hardwood stick, or a soft
+metal (so-called) cutting stick, is made. A round wood cutting stick
+connected to a timing mechanism which rotates it automatically for
+every cut, or for a certain number of cuts, is valuable for hard stock
+requiring microscopical perfection.
+
+
+
+
+_The Back Gage_
+
+
+The back gage is moved and controlled on the machine table in several
+ways. In the simpler machines the gage is attached to a rod under the
+table, a long slot in the center of the table allowing the connection
+of the gage with the rod below. The rod is attached to the gage with a
+worm gear and is operated by a small hand wheel at the front of the
+table. In other machines the gage is attached to a steel cable, or a
+metal tape, or a chain which passes over wheels at the back and front
+below the table.
+
+The one-piece back gage was improved by cutting it into two or three
+sections so that the first and final cuts of two or three piles may be
+made at every stroke of the knife. Adjusting screws are provided for
+tilting the back gage forward or backward to compensate for the
+variation in the width of the top and the bottom sheets which occurs in
+the same machine and with the same knife when cutting hard or soft
+papers. A swinging adjustment is also provided to "square" the back
+gage parallel with the knife edge.
+
+Various devices for taking up the slack caused by wear in the table
+slot guiding the back gage are furnished, but probably the simplest and
+best method is the replacement and refitting of the inexpensive sliding
+part.
+
+
+INDICATOR ATTACHMENT FOR BACK GAGE
+
+The distance the back gage is moved is read in different ways. The
+movement of a gage operated by a screw and wheel is indicated by a
+pointer on the front edge of the table overlapping the rim of the long
+screw wheel. If the rim of the screw wheel is lined off in sixteenths
+of its circumference, the pitch of the screw being one inch, each
+complete turn of the screw wheel means that the back gage is advanced
+one inch, and each one-sixteenth turn means that it is advanced
+one-sixteenth of an inch. It is important always to keep turning the
+screw and wheel the same way when so measuring, because otherwise the
+"back lash" (looseness of the screw and its nut to permit easy working)
+will cause variation.
+
+For a back gage moved by a chain or a wire cable or a metal tape, a
+graduated dial is attached to the top of the cable hand wheel which
+reads from a pointer attached to the front edge of the table.
+
+Both these ways of reading require the operator to look down.
+
+For a back gage moved by power, a steel indicator ribbon passing around
+a wheel overhead in the frame cap and attached to a standard on top of
+the back gage (see Fig. 7) enables the operator to read the position of
+the back gage without looking down, and a second wheel indicator and
+pointer permits reading to less than one-thousandth of an inch. Similar
+indicator ribbons are attachable to the back gage for screw, cable,
+chain, and metal tape movements.
+
+These indicator ribbons are usually graduated and marked for inches,
+halves, quarters, eighths, and sixteenths. They are also furnished with
+metric system measurements, graduated and marked for centimeters and
+millimeters. They are also furnished extra wide so that both the
+English inch measurements as well as the metric system measurements may
+be put upon the same ribbon. When graduated to thirty-seconds of an
+inch and millimeters a good magnifying glass of about three inches
+diameter, adjusted in front of the pointer, enables easier and more
+accurate reading. An easily operated lock for holding the back gage
+fast to the table at any exact mark prevents variation in the width of
+cutting.
+
+Fixed distance gage rods and suitable engagements with the back gage
+are provided for cutting at any time duplicates of exactly the same
+width, especially valuable for loose-leaf ledger work. Pins and holes
+drilled in the back gage and table also secure uniform locations
+impossible to get solely from reading the overhead ribbon or an
+indicator dial, which latter may be read incorrectly because of poor
+light or variation in the operator's position or eye.
+
+Locking devices for the back gage ordinarily consist of (a) a friction
+grip around the moving screw, or (b) about the cable hand wheel, or (c)
+a clamping device which holds the back gage, or (d), best of all, a
+fixed grip rod-holding device operated from the front of the table,
+thus eliminating any possible lost motion through connecting parts from
+the jogging or chucking of work.
+
+A back gage is split so that different width piles may be cut at the
+same time, such as trimming the heads, tails, and fronts of books. The
+fingers at the splits are placed smooth, so that they may be used as
+side gages to enable the wear of the knife to be taken its full width,
+instead of just at the usual left-hand end.
+
+
+
+
+_Power Back Gage Movement_
+
+
+The larger sizes of cutting machines are equipped with a labor-saving
+power connection to the main driving shaft which may be thrown in by
+the operator at will to move the back gage forward or backward by
+power, a micrometer reading the position to thousandths of an inch.
+
+
+
+
+_Special Devices_
+
+
+Special spacing devices for the back gage are revolutionizing many
+branches of work. The usual screw or cable is relatively slow and
+undependable and requires care and time to move the work the exact
+distance required.
+
+The new way is to equip the cutting machine with a back gage operating
+mechanism having stops which can be set for any width to be cut. The
+operator simply pulls a lever between the stops, which instantly moves
+the pile and measures it exactly. Production has been increased six
+hundred per cent. with such spacing devices.
+
+Gages for measuring the width of the cut may be simply a sample cut the
+desired width laid upon the pile, or an exact size wood or metal
+pattern, or the width may be determined by reading on a steel
+indicator-ribbon attached to the back gage the distance its face is
+back from the knife edge.
+
+These methods are only approximately accurate, however; for exact
+cutting, steel distance-pieces of correct lengths to give the different
+widths of cut required are set against a fixed stop in the back table
+and the back gage run back until it grips the steel distance-piece.
+This brings the face of the back gage the desired distance from the
+knife.
+
+Modern patented spacing devices for the rapid duplication of exact
+widths in succession, while the machine runs continuously without
+stopping between cuts, have been perfected so as to enable, on some
+classes of work, one cutting machine to do the work of six and still
+obtain accuracy. These spacing devices operate the back gage through a
+chain or a screw or a gear by means of a lever driven by hand or by
+power between accurately set stops fixed for any desired width, and
+thus eliminate the time ordinarily lost measuring the width for each
+cut.
+
+Among other conveniences on the large modern cutters two starting
+levers, one at each side of the machine, or a starting bar extending
+across the front, save several motions at each cut.
+
+A flat piece of metal, called a clamp face, which may be quickly
+attached to the under side of the fingered clamp, is used to prevent
+these fingers marking soft or delicate finished stock.
+
+A snake gage is a folding lattice used in front of the back gage of a
+solid wide face clamp machine to enable the back gage to push the pile
+up nearer the knife.
+
+For large pamphlets or magazines an extra clamp attached behind the
+regular clamp to hold the back of the pile down gently by spring
+pressure will prevent the sheets springing up and away from the back
+gage, caused by the folds and air between the sheets.
+
+A plate attached to the machine with hooks upon which to hang the
+wrenches is provided upon the most modern machines and this helps the
+operator to keep them together and in order.
+
+Guards covering the gearing, knife edge, pulleys, flywheel and other
+moving parts are required by many state laws, and power cutting
+machines are, therefore, so designed and furnished complete.
+
+
+
+
+_Application of Power_
+
+
+There are five methods of applying power necessary to operate paper
+cutters: by hand lever, by belt, by direct gearing, by chain and
+sprocket, and by direct connection of electric motor.
+
+Figure 13 shows an electric motor on a bracket, adjustable vertically,
+attached to the frame of the cutting machine, driving by a belt from
+the motor pulley to the machine pulley. The belt cushions the heavy
+repeated thrusts of the clamp and knife in cutting upon the motor. The
+electric motor may be set on the floor or on a bracket on the wall.
+
+Figure 14 shows a direct-geared connection of the electric motor
+through its noiseless rawhide pinion engaging an iron gear on the
+machine driving shaft. An adjustment is provided for taking up the wear
+in the gears, in order to maintain the noiseless running of the
+machine.
+
+  [Illustration: Fig. 13
+  ELECTRIC MOTOR OVERHEAD, BELT DRIVE]
+
+The chain drive is like the direct-geared except that it substitutes a
+chain and two sprockets for two gears.
+
+It is not generally understood what a large amount of power is required
+to drive a paper-cutting machine, and how important it is that the
+number of working parts connecting the belt pulley to the knife be as
+simple and few as possible in order to eliminate friction and lost
+motion, and to secure efficiency. Every cut costs money for the power
+consumed.
+
+  [Illustration: Fig. 14
+  ELECTRIC MOTOR UNDERNEATH, GEARED DRIVE]
+
+An inch-high pile of writing paper with a sharp knife may take one
+thousand pounds for each foot of length of the knife to drive it
+through. A higher pile on a fifty-inch power cutter may take three tons
+pressure, plus the automatic clamping effort and plus frictional
+losses, and (more important) plus a tremendous increase in case the
+knife is dull.
+
+
+
+
+_Care of the Machine_
+
+
+A man is known by the condition of the machine he keeps. Keep the knife
+sharp. That is the first rule to repeat every day and every hour of the
+day. The second rule is to oil every hole and place required on the
+machine. The third rule is to keep the machine and its neighborhood
+scrupulously clean. The fourth rule is to learn by heart and follow the
+printed directions attached to the machine by the maker. If you do not
+understand or if you cannot follow correctly every instruction on the
+printed instructions attached to the machine by the maker, first ask
+your foreman or superintendent. If the directions are not clear, write,
+or ask the office to write, to the maker for a detailed explanation or
+to have his traveling representative come and explain them. Any
+operator who does not understand the adjustments of the machine he
+operates has but partly learned his trade. Be particular to see that
+the driving pulley on your machine runs at the speed given for it on
+the manufacturer's directions.
+
+Keep the machine always in adjustment. See that the brake band is
+adjusted so that when the starting lever is thrown in to start, the
+friction is entirely released and there is no drag on machine.
+
+Do not allow the knife to sink any deeper into the cutting stick than
+to sever the last sheet of the pile.
+
+Never use more pressure on the clamp than is necessary to hold the pile
+without drawing or slipping; any additional pressure is only an added
+strain on the machine.
+
+Jog your stock before putting it in the machine and do not use the back
+gage for that purpose. Continual hard jogging with heavy lifts of stock
+against first one end of gage and then the other will quickly knock it
+out of square or loosen it.
+
+A little talcum powder, French chalk, or powdered boracic acid dusted
+on the table makes the stock handle easier.
+
+A slip-sheet of paper or thin pulp board placed on top or on the bottom
+of the pile, and cut up with it, protects delicate surfaces from finger
+marks or soiling. Keep your hands and apron clean. Keep the machine
+clean in every part.
+
+Use only wrenches furnished with the machine, because they fit the bolt
+heads properly and because they are the correct lengths to put on the
+proper tension.
+
+Do not use a monkey wrench, because, unless the jaws are carefully
+adjusted, it will destroy the bolt heads and if used on small bolts, on
+account of its length and power, is apt to strip the threads or break
+the bolt or part.
+
+Occasionally go over every part of machine and see that all taper pins,
+bolts, nuts, etc., are snug in place.
+
+A locked cupboard or box at the cutting machine is useful to keep the
+full set of wrenches provided, clean waste, colored crayons, a good
+magnifying glass, powdered pumice stone, French chalk, talcum powder,
+boracic acid, special cutting pads, and boards for making them, size
+strips, dimension records, etc. The oil can should stand always filled
+and ready on its bracket.
+
+If a belt is put on too tight, it may pull so hard on the bearings as
+to heat and cause them to cut. It is easier not to put the belt on too
+tight at first and to relace it several times while it is stretching,
+than it is to repair a rough bearing.
+
+Keep clean waste in a box. Destroy dirty, oily waste instantly after
+use, or place it carefully inside a fireproof oily waste can if
+provided. Do not put dirty, oily waste away or leave it around. It is
+most dangerous and many plants have been burned by its spontaneous
+combustion.
+
+Have a definite fixed time to oil, and to clean the machine. Mark the
+hours when to oil every day, and the day and hour when to clean and
+polish the machine every week, on the maker's direction sheet attached
+to the machine.
+
+Oil with intelligence, not just with an oil can and oil. Oil freely,
+but not sloppily. Oil should not drip upon the floor. Oil should not
+flow over parts not requiring it. An excess of oil on a brake band will
+prevent its acting and stopping the machine promptly. Wipe out the
+excess oil in this case by passing a rag under and around the bands.
+Oil that runs or drops or is wiped off is wasted.
+
+Oil the parts above the table carefully and thoroughly. A few drops of
+oil on the palm of the hand and applied to the four front and back
+faces of the knife-bar prevents dripping on the table from the oil can.
+Run the machine through a few strokes after oiling and then wipe off
+clean with a cloth or piece of waste the surfaces against which the
+stock to be cut is placed.
+
+When oiling, remember it is only the oil that reaches the bearing that
+does any good. Any surplus that runs over and defaces the machine is
+waste.
+
+The best kind of oil to use is a free-running, light-colored petroleum
+machine oil. Cheap oils cost more in the end.
+
+
+
+
+_Operating the Machine_
+
+
+The character of the cutting depends upon, first, the machine, second,
+the knife, and third, the man.
+
+Successful cutting is a fine manual art. The finest razor improperly
+stropped and used in unskilled hands does poor work. The finest cutting
+machine unintelligently operated will stultify the best efforts of the
+printing plant.
+
+The machine that has the simplest mechanism evolved by long experience
+and study ensures the first safeguard of accuracy. The knife that
+fulfils the specifications given elsewhere furnishes the second. And
+third, the man whose standard of work is high, who is conscientious in
+following his instructions, who is big enough and broad enough to
+understand how important his position is, and how necessary, therefore,
+it is for him to coöperate with every other department in a friendly
+and intelligent manner, completes the tripod that can stand up
+successfully under any job.
+
+A cutting machine is a sharp-edged tool and, therefore, dangerous when
+run by a careless or unskilled operator. "Look before you leap"
+applies especially to the cutting machine. Its action is powerful and
+quick. Accidents occur through failure of the operator to watch his
+own motions and because of the improper operation of the machine
+through failure of some of its parts. Sufficient safety devices to
+make all accidents impossible would render the cutting machine as
+useless as an axe in a velvet case. Accidents which occur from undue
+wear or neglect to oil are apt to happen. Two preventives are
+available: _first_, to train the operator to care; _second_, to
+provide as many safeguards as can be utilized and still permit
+commercially successful operation.
+
+With the modern high-speed machine operating at from twenty-five to
+forty cuts a minute, the time consumed in the cutting room is not the
+time taken by the knife to pass through the stock, but rather the time
+getting the stock laid up and measured ready to cut. Consequently,
+these latter operations are the ones to study for savings.
+
+The time and labor required to cut a job depends upon the number and
+kind of motions of the hands and body and feet that are made to get the
+stock ready and to take it away. The fewer motions necessary to do this
+and to operate the machine, the easier and pleasanter it is to work at
+a cutting machine.
+
+Powdered chalk and naphtha put on the bright parts and nickel and
+allowed to stay over night will polish off in the morning and leave the
+machine appearing clean and free from rust.
+
+The clamp strap ways should be kept clean and free from the fuzz from
+the cuttings and thick oil. This can be done by occasionally cleaning
+them out with kerosene.
+
+If the oil gets in the friction brake band the machine may not stop
+promptly at the proper point. Throw off the driving belt, and throw on
+the starting lever to loosen the brake band; then pass a rag around
+under the band, between it and the clutch rings, so as to remove the
+oil, then throw off the starting lever. If a piece of waste is laid on
+the lower part of the friction brake band just next to the ring, it
+will keep it free from oil for some time.
+
+Rub the knife and other bright parts of the machine with an oily rag
+every night. This will prevent the rust forming with the variation of
+temperature between day and night.
+
+When using the graduations on its rim to measure by, always keep
+turning the gage screw wheel in one direction, without reversing it,
+when pulling the back gage forward for successive cuts. This will keep
+up all the slack and lost motion of the screw and its nut. If the screw
+wheel is moved first one way and then another, little dependence can be
+placed upon the graduated reading of the scale.
+
+
+
+
+_Safety of the Knife_
+
+
+The best automatic rapid-production cutting machines are provided with
+four safety devices to prevent the knife making an unexpected stroke.
+
+_First_--A solid knocker throws out the clutch positively. Neither
+gravity nor a spring for a trip is depended upon to move an
+intercepting part, but the certain fact that two solid bodies cannot
+occupy the same space at the same time.
+
+_Second_--An automatic friction brake grips firmly and stops all motion
+silently.
+
+_Third_--An automatic counterbalance is used for both the knife-bar and
+the clamp, and retains them at the top position.
+
+_Fourth_--An automatic steel safety bolt engages a solid lug on the
+large gear, so that the gear cannot revolve further until the operator
+deliberately pulls the starting lever for another cut.
+
+These four safety devices are designed so as to act positively and
+simultaneously on the completion of each cut. To start requires a
+deliberate action of the starting lever by the operator.
+
+
+
+
+_Handling Paper_
+
+
+Paper is made principally in long webs, or continuous strips, and is
+rolled up as it comes from the paper-making machine. It is then cut
+into sheets by a revolving fly cutter or a shear knife, cutting one
+sheet at a time off the roll. These sheets are furnished by the mills
+in bundles or cases, which are trimmed to certain sizes on a
+paper-cutting machine.
+
+The best method of handling and cutting stock, the proper quantity to
+take on at each lift, the height of the pile to cut, and the routine of
+passing each cut section along in orderly fashion, should be given
+careful study.
+
+Convenient tables of the right height and of ample surface are
+essential if the work is to be carried on satisfactorily, without
+backtracking or unnecessary motions and lifting.
+
+Large stock should be piled on movable wooden platforms which can be
+moved quickly from place to place.
+
+A primary difficulty in cutting-machine work is due to the great
+variety of papers and sizes required to be handled on the machine. This
+varies from little narrow slips to piles the full width of the table,
+from a few sheets to a pile the full height allowed by the clamp, and
+from soft book paper to stock nearly as tough as tin. All these varying
+conditions cannot be met with equal success in one automatic machine.
+Therefore, superior intelligence rather than unusual muscle should be
+required of the operator.
+
+Good judgment is required to determine the proper height of a pile to
+cut. This will often depend upon how much can be grasped each time with
+the hands and put into place in good order. Time may be lost and sheets
+wasted trying to fill up to the capacity of the machine; smaller piles
+and more of them may sometimes be a more economical method. The time
+taken for the knife stroke is only a second, while the time necessary
+to jog up several lifts may be minutes more than to put one lift into
+place. The convenient lift, as large as possible, and uniform in size
+if there are several of them, is the advisable practise.
+
+Inaccurate cutting may be the result of several causes: (a) Not jogging
+the pile thoroughly against the back gage; this should be done by
+pressing the ball of the thumbs against the front of the pile from top
+to bottom. (b) By disturbing the pile when turning it for the next cut.
+(c) By lifting out the pile and failing to jog it carefully when flat
+against the back gage again. (d) Work that is fed to points on the
+printing press may not be square and true and consequently cannot be
+jogged against a straightedge gage and cut accurately. This condition
+should be watched for in such cases. Find out, if possible, which is
+the feed edge in the printing and jog up to that. Pressmen are often
+careless about this necessary instruction in sending printed sheets to
+the cutter.
+
+Inaccurate cutting is also due to insufficient clamping pressure,
+allowing the pile to slip out of place slightly; or to excessive
+clamping pressure, compressing the pile more than necessary just at the
+line behind the knife cut.
+
+The above causes may result in imperfect cutting when the machine is in
+good order. When the machine is not in the proper condition, and the
+knife is dull, or of a shape not adapted to the work, accurate cutting
+cannot be expected.
+
+When piling up sheets see that each sheet is laid in exact register
+with all the others, that is, that the printed pages, guide marks, and
+edges are all in the same position throughout the pile. One sheet on
+top laid the wrong way may be the cause of cutting every other sheet of
+the pile wrong unless (and this is very important) the operator looks
+at the under sheets to make sure that they are all laid alike.
+
+When cutting or trimming printed sheets it is necessary that the
+operator should jog the sheets to the pressman's feed edges. These
+should be marked plainly, without chance of misunderstanding. If they
+are not, he should ask for directions. One wrong cut will spoil the
+whole pile.
+
+When a sheet is taken off a pile for examination or for any other
+purpose, care should be observed that it is laid back again uniform
+with the other sheets. A pile is easily disturbed in this manner either
+when swinging it over, turning it around, or rejogging, if the utmost
+care and orderliness are not observed.
+
+Papers received from the mills or from dealers are not always trimmed
+squarely, but have what is called a mill edge. This edge is only
+approximately straight and the corners only apparently square. For
+accurate work, either in printing or in cutting, one or two edges may
+need to be retrimmed on a paper cutter to get them straight and have a
+true corner. The ultimate accuracy of the finished work will depend
+upon this proper trimming before the sheets are printed.
+
+Exact register and accurate trimming can be secured only by working
+from the same edges of the paper at every operation and the edges must
+be straight and squarely cut. When the edges are thus trimmed they
+should be marked with a red crayon, or in some similar manner, in order
+to be readily identified at each handling.
+
+A pile may be tested for squareness by jogging it in the cutter table
+against both the back gage and the side gage, if the machine gages are
+themselves in perfect adjustment. If it is difficult to see whether the
+sides of the pile are close against the gages at all points, narrow
+strips of paper put between the pile and gages will show whether the
+pile touches the gages uniformly.
+
+When cutting lithographed work or similar close-register printing,
+where large sheets are apt to come with an irregular edge, a small
+wooden block against the back gage or the side gage at points on the
+sheet where the original register guides of the press were placed, will
+usually insure cutting on an accurate line with the printing. In this
+manner the same points of contact as were used in the press feeding may
+be secured.
+
+To cut a pile of paper in half, fold over the top sheet and fold at the
+middle, carefully matching the edges. Crease this fold distinctly and
+use the crease as a guide when the sheet is opened out and laid on the
+pile. To cut into thirds or fifths it is better to measure the sheet
+exactly with a rule and make clear pencil marks at the points of
+cutting.
+
+Hand-made papers have rough, uneven edges which are thicker than the
+rest of the sheet and, therefore, require particular care in jogging
+and clamping. They should be handled in small piles.
+
+Gummed and varnished papers require special care even when perfectly
+dry, but more so in a moist atmosphere. Varnished stock if it is very
+dry may nick the knife, and a clean oily (but not too oily) swab run
+over the bevel of the knife before the cut will make a smoother, safer
+cut. It is not well to use soap on the knife, especially on
+lithographic work.
+
+Freshly printed work which tends to offset on the next sheet may be cut
+where necessary by placing strips of reglet or thick card around the
+margin close to the line of the proposed cut, so as to keep the
+pressure of the clamp off the printed matter.
+
+Tissue paper requires to be firmly clamped to cut accurately. A
+clamping motion that will first exert a gentle pressure to squeeze the
+air out between the sheets and pack the pile down evenly all over and
+then apply a powerful pressure before the knife strikes the pile, gives
+the best results.
+
+Accuracy is required in manifold duplicate work, where absolute
+register must be made, to secure the proper location of dollars in
+dollars columns and cents in cents columns. The ruling and printing
+both depend entirely on the square and accurate cutting of the stock to
+secure proper register.
+
+The cutting of waxed and oiled manifold stock, if carefully jogged up,
+is not difficult with the newer types of clamping mechanism, especially
+on that type of cutting machine where the pressure of the automatic
+clamp is applied at first gently and then with maximum pressure,
+similar to the hand-clamp.
+
+
+
+
+_To Cut a Pile into Strips of Equal Width_
+
+
+This is sometimes required to be done for a large quantity of stock and
+it is desirable to do it with economy of time and labor. The obvious
+method is to first trim one edge of the stock, then set the back gage
+to the required width and jog the pile up to it for each cut. This
+method is usually accurate but requires a great deal of handling of the
+stock--almost three times as much as is necessary by some other
+methods.
+
+The following methods require the pile of paper to be first trimmed
+with a true edge in order to jog it against the back gage, and also
+with a true edge on the opposite or front side.
+
+1. Make a mark or place a thin paper sticker on the top surface of the
+front table the exact distance in front of the cutting edge of the
+knife to correspond with the required width of the strip. Place the
+pile of paper on the back table with a trimmed edge against the back
+gage. Move the gage forward so that the front edge of the pile comes to
+the mark on the front table. Make the cut. Repeat this until the pile
+is cut up. This requires only one jogging of the pile into place.
+
+2. Same as the method just described, except that a small hinged metal
+gage is used instead of a mark on the table. This requires a special
+device. The front flange of this device or gage may be slotted and
+fastened to the table by a thumbscrew. The vertical angle part must be
+hinged to the part fixed to the table so that it can be swung upward
+and back far enough to leave the cut pile room to move forward on the
+table when the knife passes down through the pile.
+
+3. Use a hand automatic spacing device, gage screw movement.
+
+4. Use a template placed on top of the pile. Run the clamp down to the
+pile, place a card or fiber template on top of the pile in front of the
+clamp. Draw the pile forward until this front edge coincides with the
+front edge of the template. Make the cut and repeat the operation until
+the pile is cut up.
+
+5. Draw the front edge of the pile forward to dimension on the regular
+graduated rule set in the front table.
+
+6. Draw the pile forward the distance desired by reading the steel tape
+scale overhead, or the dial, or the graduation on the gage movement
+wheel.
+
+7. Use a hand automatic spacing device, chain movement.
+
+
+
+
+_To Cut a Pile Rectangular_
+
+
+To trim a pile with perfectly true corners first jog its straightest
+edge against the back gage, and make the first trim. Then jog this cut
+edge against the back gage and make the second trim, keeping the pile
+away from the side gage. This trimmed edge should be exactly parallel
+with the edge trimmed first. Then jog either of these cut edges against
+the side gage, and push gently (but do not jog) to the back gage, for
+distance. This cut will be at exact right angles to the first and
+second. Turn the pile and make the last cut with the trimmed edge
+against the back gage keeping the pile away from the side gage.
+
+Do not try to jog a pile against both side gage and back gage at the
+same time, for, although these are at right angles, the attempt to
+force a pile against both will slue the pile.
+
+Turn the pile on the table with the greatest care; do not lift it
+between cuts or jog it vertically. To test a pile for rectangularity,
+turn part of it one-half way around and match the edges.
+
+
+
+
+_To Square a Pile_
+
+
+_First_--Set the back gage about one-eighth inch further from the
+cutting edge of the knife than the desired dimension of the square. The
+extra distance the back gage is set beyond the dimension of the square
+will depend upon the amount necessary to trim it to a true, clean edge.
+
+_Second_--Jog an uncut edge of the pile against the back gage and make
+a clean trim.
+
+_Third_--Jog this clean trim against the side gage and just "feel" the
+back gage for distance. This trim is at right angles to the first.
+
+_Fourth_--Now draw the back gage up to the exact dimension of the
+square desired.
+
+_Fifth_--Jog either of the clean trimmed edges against the back gage
+(keep the pile away from the side gage). This trims three sides.
+
+_Sixth_--Jog the pile against the back gage and trim the remaining
+uncut edge, keeping the pile away from the side gage. This completes
+the square.
+
+To test a pile for squareness, turn part of the pile one quarter way
+around and match the edges.
+
+
+
+
+_To Cut Unusual Shapes_
+
+
+Any odd shapes having straight lines may be cut by the following
+method: Make a sample of the shape and size required; then take a piece
+of No. 70 strawboard a little larger than the pattern. The board must
+be squared up, and the odd-shaped card laid on it; then put the two
+pieces under the clamp and adjust the strawboard against the back gage
+and the sample card even with the clamp in front; then run the clamp
+down and draw a pencil line around the sample card on the strawboard. A
+piece of wood can then be glued on to the strawboard along the pencil
+line at the back and another at the end. If a bunch of cards is laid
+into this box gage and the board pushed up against the back gage of the
+machine, a narrow strip of wood or board must be glued on the clamp
+right over the card, so that a pressure may be secured on the stock.
+This clamp-stick must, of course, fit into the box gage, so that it
+will take up the difference in thickness between the pile of stock and
+the height of the box gage. These gages may be made by means of a
+square and a pair of dividers, as well as in the machine.
+
+Celluloid may be cut into narrow strips by using the method described
+above. A sharp knife and rubber bands are all that are necessary.
+
+
+
+
+_Trimming Books_
+
+
+A common error made by printers is to make up forms nearly the full
+measurement of the leaf, thereby leaving the binder very little trim
+margin. A standing rule of every printing and binding establishment
+should be to allow one-eighth of an inch trim margin for the fore-edge,
+head, and tail of all stitched tablets and quarter-bound cut-flush
+books. All sewed books should have three-sixteenths of an inch for the
+fore-edge, and one-eighth of an inch for the head and tail trim
+margins. The trimming of letter-press work should be standardized, so
+that paper-covered books are trimmed a trifle larger to permit a retrim
+when books are returned for a substantial cover. To illustrate this, a
+sheet 24 × 38 inches made up into thirty-two-page signatures, when
+folded, is 6 × 9-1/2 inches. The paper-covered books should be trimmed
+5-7/8 × 9-1/8 inches; one-eighth of an inch is trimmed off the head,
+the balance off the tail, while the fore-edge has one-eighth of an inch
+trim. These books, when returned for permanent covers, as they
+frequently are, have one-sixteenth of an inch trimmed off the head and
+tail; and one-eighth of an inch off the fore-edge. This gives the
+standard book size, 5-3/4 × 9 inches for the bound volume.
+
+When the entire edition is to be bound with a permanent cover,
+provision is made for three-sixteenths of an inch trim at the head.
+This enables the printer to standardize forms without varying the head
+margins, and gives the binder sufficient margin to trim inaccurately
+folded sheets.
+
+To trim books on a cutting machine, take as many as will make a pile
+about three inches high, and jog at the head and back. Set the back
+gage the exact size to which the book is to be trimmed; put the books
+in the machine with the head against the side and the back against the
+back gage. Run down the clamp, provided the machine has a hand clamp;
+an automatic or self-clamp requires nothing more than to pull the
+lever. When the cut has been made and the machine stops, remove the
+books and put to one side. Repeat this operation until all books are
+trimmed on the fore-edge and lay aside in piles with the backs out.
+
+To trim the heads and tails, fillers must be made to take up the
+thickness of the back. Cut strips of straw or binders' board about four
+inches wide; glue them together; fan out and press. Put the books in
+the machine with the heads against the back gage and the trimmed
+fore-edges against the side; then lay the board filler on top in such a
+way that the fanned-out ends are sufficiently away from the back to
+permit an even pressure of the clamp on the books. Pull the lever, and
+repeat the operation for subsequent books. The filler can be glued to
+the clamp and the books put directly under it.
+
+For the head, the gage is set forward and the trimmed tail is placed
+against the back and side gage. The board filler is placed on top in
+the same manner as above described and the operation continued. On thin
+books the board filler may be dispensed with by reversing the backs of
+the books alternately, so as to distribute the thickness of the back on
+both sides of the pile.
+
+If there are two splits in the back gage, _i.e._, if it is a three-part
+back gage, set the center for trimming the fore-edge, the left for
+trimming the tail, and the right end for the head. This, however,
+should be done only when the quantity to be trimmed justifies it. When
+the back gage is set, tighten the thumbscrew with the hand. To guard
+against the marking of the book by the pressure of the clamp, cut a
+piece of binders' board somewhat larger than the width of the clamp
+face and glue it on the clamp.
+
+Waste leaves should be placed on the top and bottom of enameled or
+glazed stock to keep it clean.
+
+To trim quarter-bound cut-flush tablets or pads which are bound two or
+more on a sheet, as in the case of receipts, trim the fore-edges, cut
+all the tails alike, then the heads. The knife should cut against the
+back. In making up books to be bound two or more on, one-fourth of an
+inch trim must be provided for, to clear the bevel caused by the knife.
+This is provided for if books are made up with one-eighth of an inch
+trim for the head and tail. Thick books can be bound two or more on
+until the stitching is completed. Then cut apart and proceed with the
+rest of the binding in the regular way.
+
+Blank books are trimmed so that the standard sizes are reduced
+one-fourth of an inch for the length and three-sixteenths of an inch
+for the width. The paper for a medium book is 18 × 23 inches; when
+folded, 11-1/2 × 18 inches. If such standard sizes are adopted the work
+of forwarding is greatly facilitated, as cases and boards can be made
+in advance without fear of the books being trimmed too large.
+
+In trimming spring-back account-books, sewed straight or on guards, the
+fore-ends are trimmed, then forwarded until the books are in straps.
+Sharp knives are indispensable in trimming books which are concave on
+the fore-edge. Deep rounds should be filled in with waste paper to
+prevent the top sections and the back from breaking. Board fillers are
+always laid on top and the book placed so that the knife will cut
+against the back.
+
+Brochures with extended cover should have the stock first cut to size
+of cover before printing, and sufficient extra stock allowed for an
+all-round trim of the inset after, especially at the fore-edge where
+after folding in sections the inner sheets are apt to bulge forward.
+The printer should know how much will be taken off in the after trim to
+enable him to allow uniform widths of margin. After a job is bound, the
+cutting machine cannot remedy any defect of edges.
+
+
+
+
+_Paper Cuttings and Waste_
+
+
+Cuttings and waste may be disposed of by throwing them into a large bag
+attached to or placed near the machine. When filled, this can be taken
+away and another substituted. Throwing waste on the floor should not be
+tolerated. It is untidy, costs time and labor to gather up, and is
+dangerous.
+
+A light box on wheels is also a good plan for caring for waste of this
+kind. In some places where there is a great deal of trimming, a chute
+in the floor next to the machine provides a convenient method of
+disposing of waste from a number of machines. This chute leads into a
+large bin or baling machine below, from which the material is carted
+away.
+
+The worth of a paper-cutter operator can be measured by an examination
+of the waste cuttings. A careless operator can waste a large sum of
+money in a year. Many persons make a good living from the waste paper
+of large printing and binding plants by buying it at a nominal price
+and selling it again at a considerable advance.
+
+There is unavoidable waste, of course, but there is often a great deal
+of unnecessary trimming. When the necessary trimming runs up into
+hundreds and thousands of pounds, as it does in all large plants, it is
+worthy of notice, especially when it is realized that this waste has
+been paid for at the same rate per pound as the stock that is actually
+used. Some printers and binders sort and bale their waste and dispose
+of it so as to make a considerable saving, but few understand how a
+little care and system can be made to return a good profit.
+
+There is another waste, sometimes far greater in amount, caused by the
+careless cutting of stock. A thoughtless operator will often try to
+save ten minutes by hasty calculation and then waste stock through
+inaccurate cutting that costs several dollars.
+
+In some binderies the operator is instructed to sort his trimmings
+according to the kind of stock; that is, clean white edge trimmings
+kept by themselves are worth more than when mixed with miscellaneous
+colored trimmings. By having two or more bins at hand into which these
+different kinds can be thrown as they come from the knife the sorting
+can be done without extra handling.
+
+An intelligent inspection, segregation and saving of the waste cuttings
+will well repay the effort. The larger pieces of waste can be kept for
+pads or other use. White stock should be kept separate from colored and
+where the quantity will warrant the cost, all waste should be baled in
+a baling press.
+
+
+
+
+_Depreciation of a Paper-Cutting Machine_
+
+
+Deterioration takes place in a paper-cutting machine chiefly in the
+knife, friction clutch, driving-shaft bearings, knife-bar guide ways,
+and knife pull-down connection. Depreciation in the entire machine
+occurs rapidly when it is not kept oiled, adjusted, and clean.
+Neglected bearings which run dry are ruined in a short time. The times
+for the daily oilings and weekly cleaning and polishing should be fixed
+and faithfully attended to.
+
+On modern machines the worn knife and the friction-clutch bearings may
+be easily replaced or repaired. Knife-bar guide ways and the guide
+slot for the back gage are made with adjustments for taking up wear,
+for which the maker will give correct instructions on request. The
+knife-bar pull-down connections are not so easily corrected for wear,
+and the simpler and more direct these connections are, and the fewer
+slots and rolls, pins, etc., the better. The general design of the
+machine also affects its value, especially if it is not adapted for the
+addition of improvements or attachments for increasing its production.
+
+The depreciation that comes from natural evolution due to the constant
+effort by machine makers to render their product more efficient, and
+the impossibility of attaching to the older machines new and improved
+devices, is more serious for two reasons: _first_, that it is apt to be
+overlooked by the owner; _second_, because of the greater cost of
+operating the machine, as compared to one of a later and improved
+design with attachments especially adapted to the particular work in
+each case, which in some cases permit three, four, five, and six times
+as much work being produced as can be obtained on a machine not so
+equipped.
+
+A well designed and built paper-cutting machine will last with care
+nearly half a century. The prudent manager, however, will find he is
+obliged to discard most of the machines of various kinds in his plant
+in much less than twenty years in order to keep pace with the newer
+shops starting with the advantage of later-designed machines.
+
+
+
+
+SUGGESTIONS TO STUDENTS AND INSTRUCTORS
+
+
+The following questions, based on the contents of this pamphlet, are
+intended to serve (1) as a guide to the study of the text, (2) as an
+aid to the student in putting the information contained into definite
+statements without actually memorizing the text, (3) as a means of
+securing from the student a reproduction of the information in his own
+words.
+
+A careful following of the questions by the reader will insure full
+acquaintance with every part of the text, avoiding the accidental
+omission of what might be of value. These primers are so condensed that
+nothing should be omitted.
+
+In teaching from these books it is very important that these questions
+and such others as may occur to the teacher should be made the basis of
+frequent written work, and of final examinations.
+
+The importance of written work cannot be overstated. It not only
+assures knowledge of material but the power to express that knowledge
+correctly and in good form.
+
+If this written work can be submitted to the teacher in printed form it
+will be doubly useful.
+
+
+
+
+REVIEW QUESTIONS
+
+
+  1. For what is a paper cutting machine used?
+
+  2. How does it increase printing output?
+
+  3. What is its great importance?
+
+  4. What were the first methods of cutting paper, or its earlier
+substitutes?
+
+  5. How were piles of paper first cut?
+
+  6. How was the process improved?
+
+  7. Describe the development of cutting machines down to Samuel R.
+Brown's invention.
+
+  8. Describe that invention.
+
+  9. Give the lines of evolution of the cutting machine.
+
+ 10. What are the characteristics of the best paper-cutting machines?
+
+ 11. Describe a plough and press cutter.
+
+ 12. Describe a card cutter.
+
+ 13. Describe a hand lever cutter.
+
+ 14. What are the differences between hand and power cutters, and what
+are the advantages of the latter?
+
+ 15. Describe two forms of hand-clamp power cutters.
+
+ 16. What do automatic clamp machines do?
+
+ 17. How is an automatic power cutter operated?
+
+ 18. How is continuous running effected?
+
+ 19. For what are vertical stroke machines used?
+
+ 20. What results from the great power needed to operate cutting
+machines?
+
+ 21. Give some idea of the amount of power needed for these machines.
+
+ 22. What is the most important part of the machine and why?
+
+ 23. How do these parts vary?
+
+ 24. How can you judge the temper of a knife?
+
+ 25. How can you tell whether a knife has a correct face?
+
+ 26. How should you hone a knife?
+
+ 27. What is the rule for the length of the bevel on knives?
+
+ 28. How is this rule modified by stock?
+
+ 29. What can you say of the face of the knife?
+
+ 30. What is desirable in the thickness of the knife?
+
+ 31. What precaution should be taken as to the setting of the knife?
+
+ 32. What should you look at if the work is not cut true?
+
+ 33. Tell all you can about grinding knives.
+
+ 34. Tell all you can about the use of the hone.
+
+ 35. What causes are liable to prevent the proper seating of the
+knife, and what is the result of improper seating?
+
+ 36. How can the best knives be obtained, and why?
+
+ 37. How is the paper held in place?
+
+ 38. Describe the mechanism used.
+
+ 39. What is the relation of the power exerted by the operator to the
+power obtained at the clamp?
+
+ 40. What was the characteristic of the first automatic clamp cutting
+machines, and how have they been improved?
+
+ 41. Describe the cutting stick and its substitutes.
+
+ 42. What is the back gage, and how does it work?
+
+ 43. Mention some improvements which have been made on the back gage.
+
+ 44. How is the distance of the back gage read in hand-operated gages?
+
+ 45. Describe an appliance for reading the movement of a back gage
+operated by power.
+
+ 46. What contrivances are in use for cutting at any time duplicates
+of a given job?
+
+ 47. How is the back gage locked?
+
+ 48. How may piles of different widths be cut at the same time?
+
+ 49. What device is used on the larger sizes of cutting machines?
+
+ 50. What special devices have been applied to the back gage to
+increase production?
+
+ 51. How is the width of the cut measured?
+
+ 52. Describe some modern patented spacing devices, and tell what they
+accomplish.
+
+ 53. What is a clamp face?
+
+ 54. What is a snake gage?
+
+ 55. What special contrivance is used for large pamphlets, etc., and
+for what purpose?
+
+ 56. What safety devices are required by some states?
+
+ 57. What five methods of applying power are in use?
+
+ 58. Give the four great rules for the care of the machines.
+
+ 59. What advice is given about adjustment, stroke of the knife,
+pressure of the clamp, use of oil?
+
+ 60. What is the right time to jog stock, and why?
+
+ 61. How should you oil the parts above the table?
+
+ 62. How can you make the stock handle easier?
+
+ 63. How can you keep stock clean?
+
+ 64. What wrenches should be used and why?
+
+ 65. What things should be done periodically?
+
+ 66. What does a cutter operator need to work with, and how should he
+care for them?
+
+ 67. What can you say about belts?
+
+ 68. How should you care for waste, especially when oily?
+
+ 69. How should you use oil?
+
+ 70. What is the best sort of oil?
+
+ 71. Upon what three things does the character of the cutting depend,
+and why?
+
+ 72. How may accidents be prevented?
+
+ 73. How is time consumed in cutting stock?
+
+ 74. How can labor saving be accomplished?
+
+ 75. What safety rule applies to cutting?
+
+ 76. Why is a sharp knife an economy?
+
+ 77. How can you keep the machine clean and bright?
+
+ 78. How should you care for the clamp strap ways?
+
+ 79. What care should be taken of the friction brake band?
+
+ 80. How can you prevent rust?
+
+ 81. How can you keep the gage screw wheel graduation true?
+
+ 82. Give the four devices which safeguard the knife.
+
+ 83. What are the things to study in handling stock?
+
+ 84. What can you say about each of these things?
+
+ 85. What are the causes of inaccurate cutting when the machine is in
+good order?
+
+ 86. What care should be taken in piling sheets?
+
+ 87. What precaution is necessary in cutting printed sheets?
+
+ 88. What is a mill edge and what does it require?
+
+ 89. How can exact register and accurate trimming be secured?
+
+ 90. How may a pile be tested for squareness?
+
+ 91. What device is used in cutting lithographed work and the like?
+
+ 92. How can you cut stock in certain fixed portions?
+
+ 93. What peculiarity have hand-made papers?
+
+ 94. What precautions are needed with gummed and varnished stock?
+
+ 95. What precaution is desirable in the cutting of freshly printed
+stock?
+
+ 96. Give several methods of cutting a pile into strips of equal
+width.
+
+ 97. How can you cut a pile rectangular?
+
+ 98. What are the processes for squaring a pile?
+
+ 99. How can you test a pile for squareness?
+
+100. What care has to be used in cutting tissue paper?
+
+101. How can waxed and oiled manifold stock be managed?
+
+102. What additional margins should be left on book pages for trimming
+after they are bound?
+
+103. Describe the operation of trimming books on a cutting machine.
+
+104. How are quarter bound cut-flush pads or tablets trimmed?
+
+105. How are blank books trimmed?
+
+106. How are spring-back account books trimmed?
+
+107. How are brochures with extended covers trimmed?
+
+108. What should be done with cuttings and waste?
+
+109. By what can you measure the worth of a paper-cutter operator?
+
+110. How would you apply the test?
+
+111. How can waste be prevented, or waste paper utilized?
+
+112. Where does a paper-cutting machine naturally show special wear?
+
+113. What other consideration affects the value of a
+machine?
+
+114. How does the invention of improved machines affect the value of
+old-style machines?
+
+115. How long should a good paper cutter last?
+
+
+
+
+GLOSSARY OF TERMS USED
+
+
+AUTOMATIC CLAMPING--Means that the clamp descends upon any height pile
+and produces approximately the same clamping pressure for all heights
+and all kinds of material. Among the methods for producing this
+pressure for automatic clamping are devices which employ friction discs
+turned only one way by ratchets which produce the maximum pressure with
+the least expenditure of power; friction discs or friction plungers
+worked forward and reverse; surfaces sometimes combined with
+wedge-shaped ways for producing a resultant pressure from the knife;
+weights, oil and hydraulic and air plungers; springs, climbing gears
+and weights, etc.
+
+BACK GAGE--A movable device against which the paper is placed for
+measuring the size of the sheet to be cut.
+
+BRAKE, AUTOMATIC FRICTION--Generally a band with a lining which grips
+automatically the outside of a wheel fastened to the driving gear and
+stops it promptly after every cut when the knife rises to the top.
+
+CHUG--The action of the knife that results from lost motion in the
+parts connecting the knife-bar to the parts that operate it. "Chug" is
+caused, first, by the looseness of fitting necessary to permit the
+parts to operate without heating, and second, by wear of these parts.
+"Chug" dulls knives and spoils stock and makes expense for grinding,
+sharpening, and knife replacement.
+
+CLAMP--The part that presses the work firmly on the table to hold it
+while being cut.
+
+CLAMP, ONE PIECE--Means a single casting used both for marking (or
+gaging) the stock where the knife is going to cut and also for pressing
+the pile to hold it.
+
+CLAMP DWELL, LONG--Means that the clamp is held down a little longer
+upon the pile after the knife has cut, so as to allow the knife to rise
+to a safe height before the clamp is released. This prevents the knife
+rippling up the sheets on the return motion and disturbing the pile.
+
+CLAMP FACE--A removable flat steel plate fastened underneath across the
+clamp fingers to prevent the indenting of soft stock.
+
+CLAMPING, AUTOMATIC PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT--A device for varying the
+holding pressure easily and instantly for different kinds of work.
+
+CLUTCH, FRICTION DRIVING--An improvement over the jaw clutch, because
+instead of starting the machine with a jar, it permits gradual
+engagement of the power.
+
+COUNTERBALANCE WEIGHT FOR KNIFE-BAR--A safety device which, through
+constant and dependable action of gravity, always tends to keep the
+knife from dropping.
+
+CUTTING STICKS--A wood or soft metal piece inserted in the table, on
+which the knife edge strikes; in shape usually square, but sometimes
+round and rotatable by hand or power to present fresh surfaces after a
+number of cuts.
+
+DOUBLE-SHEAR STROKE--Means there are three motions taking place at the
+same time; first, the downward motion through the pile; second, the
+single "shear" motion across the face of the pile; and third, the
+double-shear motion which means that the cutting edge starts to cut
+higher at one side than the other and by rocking approximates parallel
+when it reaches the bottom of the cut at the table. The double-shear
+cuts more like a pair of scissors, the knife edge entering each sheet
+at its side and gradually cutting across it. Its advantages are less
+power required to cut, less strain on the machine and the knife, a more
+perfectly cut edge and a smoother face to the pile. See Fig. 10, Page
+18.
+
+DUPLICATING DEVICES, AUTOMATIC--See "Spacing Devices."
+
+GAGE MOVEMENT, CABLE--A steel wire cable wound around a drum which when
+revolved pulls the back gage forward or backward.
+
+GAGE MOVEMENT, CHAIN--A connection for operating the back gage to and
+fro; principally used with automatic spacing devices.
+
+GAGE MOVEMENT, POWER--A friction drive variable speed connection from
+the main driving shaft to move the back gage forward and backward.
+
+GAGE MOVEMENT, SCREW AND HAND WHEEL--This is used on the simpler,
+cheaper styles of cutting machine devices. It is slower than the cable
+device, but more reliable.
+
+GAGE MOVEMENT, AUTOMATIC SPACING DEVICE--This quickly moves the back
+gage and the pile forward a given distance without measuring for each
+cut, thus largely increasing production.
+
+GREASE CUPS--Receptacles with a screw top containing lubricating
+grease, which is forced a little at a time upon the bearing when the
+screw top is turned, or which starts to melt and flow if the bearing
+warms.
+
+GROOVED TABLE--Means slight rounded depressions lengthwise in the back
+table in which the back gage fingers travel, extending slightly below
+the table surface to catch the lowest sheets and prevent them from
+wedging under the back gage.
+
+HAND CLAMPING WHEEL--Is generally connected to the clamp by a worm and
+gears (or directly by a screw). A force of one pound exerted on its rim
+holds the work with about one hundred and fifty pounds pressure and
+correspondingly more for each additional pound.
+
+INDICATOR--Generally a steel ribbon ruled to sixteenths of an inch,
+reading the distance from the front face of the back gage to the
+cutting edge of the knife.
+
+INTERLOCKING CLAMP AND BACK GAGE (also called fingered clamp and
+fingered back gage)--Recesses in the clamp permit projections on the
+back gage to push the work farther forward than if both clamp and back
+gage were solid and the clamp of sufficient width to hold the stock
+firmly.
+
+JOG--To jog a pile against the gage is to strike it with a blow just
+sufficient to bring every sheet in the pile so that it touches the gage
+and in the same relative location with each other if all the margins
+are uniform.
+
+KNIFE--A piece of tempered tool steel about one-half the width and
+thickness of the whole blade, forged into a piece of less expensive
+soft steel, in which holes can be drilled more easily for the bolts
+that hold it to the knife bar.
+
+KNIFE ADJUSTMENT--Devices for lowering the knife-bar to compensate for
+the wear of the knife and for tilting it in case the knife edge is
+ground out of level.
+
+KNIFE-BAR--A rigid carrier for the knife. The best style takes the down
+thrust and side thrust of the knife directly upon a solid shoulder
+planed in it, instead of the knife back abutting against the points of
+adjusting screws.
+
+KNIFE-BAR MOTION--A mechanical way of imitating the action of a draw
+shave in pulling down the knife. The nearer it is to the hand method,
+the more simple and successful it is. Rods connected to each end of the
+knife-bar and pulled down by simple cranks at each end approach nearest
+to the method of human hands.
+
+LIFT--The pile of paper or other stock cut and handled at one time.
+
+MARKER--A part of the clamp on some machines, separate from the
+pressing part, that may be pulled down by a treadle to show where the
+knife is going to cut.
+
+MOTOR BRACKET--A support attached to one side or top of the cutter to
+which the electric driving motor is firmly bolted.
+
+OIL BOXES--Channels containing oily waste which allows the oil to seep
+slowly upon the bearing.
+
+OIL CUPS--An oil feeding device requiring careful attention.
+
+PLAIN CLAMP AND BACK GAGE--The under face of the clamp is a solid broad
+surface without any recesses; consequently the back gage has no
+projections but is simply a solid smooth front.
+
+PILOT CLAMPING WHEEL--A wheel with handles projecting from the rim to
+give a firmer grasp.
+
+POWER ATTACHMENTS--For hand-power cutters. These may be put only on
+machines designed and built originally for them.
+
+SAFETY BOLT (LOCK STOP)--A steel bar which must be unlocked each time
+before the machine can make a cut.
+
+SIDE GAGES--Flat guides bolted to each side of the table, front and
+back, accurately set at right angles to the knife and the table,
+against which the stock may be set to cut square.
+
+SINGLE-SHEAR STROKE--The stroke of a knife which has a side-wise motion
+at the same time that it descends, with its edge always parallel with
+the table top. The single-shear cuts the entire width of each sheet at
+the same time all through the pile.
+
+SOLID KNOCKER FOR THROW-OUT--This is a part solidly fastened to the
+shaft (or gear) making one revolution for each cut of the knife and
+that throws the clutch out positively and puts on the brake throwing in
+the safety bolt after every stroke of the knife.
+
+SPACING DEVICES, AUTOMATIC--See "Gage Movement, Automatic Spacing
+Device."
+
+STARTING BAR--A rod extending clear across the front of the larger size
+of the machines to start and stop the machines.
+
+STARTING LEVERS--Preferably two, one at each side, on medium size
+machines, to start and stop the machines.
+
+TABLE--A slab of metal upon which the stock is laid and handled for
+cutting.
+
+TABLE, FRONT SIDE EXTENSIONS--Wings bolted on the front table upon
+which work may be handled before and after cut without having to turn
+around.
+
+TOGGLING CRANK--A device on hand-lever cutters that increases the power
+as knife goes down and eliminates jumping on the lever to get the knife
+down through the lower part of the cut.
+
+TREADLE, FOOT (for clamping)--A convenience which leaves the operator's
+two hands free to handle the work while locating the line of the cut by
+pulling down the clamp with foot treadle.
+
+VERTICAL STROKE--An attachment for shear or double-shear stroke cutting
+machines which brings the knife down vertically, instead of side-ways.
+It is used with knives of a special shape to cut irregular or fancy
+edges or to pink cloth samples. See Fig. 9, page 17.
+
+
+
+
+TYPOGRAPHIC TECHNICAL SERIES FOR APPRENTICES
+
+
+The following list of publications, comprising the TYPOGRAPHIC
+TECHNICAL SERIES FOR APPRENTICES, has been prepared under the
+supervision of the Committee on Education of the United Typothetae of
+America for use in trade classes, in courses of printing instruction,
+and by individuals.
+
+Each publication has been compiled by a competent author or group of
+authors, and carefully edited, the purpose being to provide the printers
+of the United States--employers, journeymen, and apprentices--with a
+comprehensive series of handy and inexpensive compendiums of reliable,
+up-to-date information upon the various branches and specialties of the
+printing craft, all arranged in orderly fashion for progressive study.
+
+The publications of the series are of uniform size, 5 × 8 inches. Their
+general make-up, in typography, illustrations, etc., has been, as far
+as practicable, kept in harmony throughout. A brief synopsis of the
+particular contents and other chief features of each volume will be
+found under each title in the following list.
+
+Each topic is treated in a concise manner, the aim being to embody in
+each publication as completely as possible all the rudimentary
+information and essential facts necessary to an understanding of the
+subject. Care has been taken to make all statements accurate and clear,
+with the purpose of bringing essential information within the
+understanding of beginners in the different fields of study. Wherever
+practicable, simple and well-defined drawings and illustrations have
+been used to assist in giving additional clearness to the text.
+
+In order that the pamphlets may be of the greatest possible help for
+use in trade-school classes and for self-instruction, each title is
+accompanied by a list of Review Questions covering essential items of
+the subject matter. A short Glossary of technical terms belonging to
+the subject or department treated is also added to many of the books.
+
+These are the Official Text-books of the United Typothetae of America.
+
+Address all orders and inquiries to COMMITTEE ON EDUCATION, UNITED
+TYPOTHETAE OF AMERICA, CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, U.S.A.
+
+
+
+
+TYPOGRAPHIC TECHNICAL SERIES _for_ APPRENTICES
+
+
+PART I--_Types, Tools, Machines, and Materials_
+
+ 1. Type: a Primer of Information                    By A. A. Stewart
+
+Relating to the mechanical features of printing types; their sizes,
+font schemes, etc., with a brief description of their manufacture. 44
+pp.; illustrated; 74 review questions; glossary.
+
+ 2. Compositors' Tools and Materials                 By A. A. Stewart
+
+A primer of information about composing sticks, galleys, leads, brass
+rules, cutting and mitering machines, etc. 47 pp.; illustrated; 50
+review questions; glossary.
+
+ 3. Type Cases, Composing Room Furniture             By A. A. Stewart
+
+A primer of information about type cases, work stands, cabinets, case
+racks, galley racks, standing galleys, etc. 43 pp.; illustrated; 33
+review questions; glossary.
+
+ 4. Imposing Tables and Lock-up Appliances           By A. A. Stewart
+
+Describing the tools and materials used in locking up forms for the
+press, including some modern utilities for special purposes. 59 pp.;
+illustrated; 70 review questions; glossary.
+
+ 5. Proof Presses                                    By A. A. Stewart
+
+A primer of information about the customary methods and machines for
+taking printers' proofs. 40 pp.; illustrated; 41 review questions;
+glossary.
+
+ 6. Platen Printing Presses                           By Daniel Baker
+
+A primer of information regarding the history and mechanical
+construction of platen printing presses, from the original hand press
+to the modern job press, to which is added a chapter on automatic
+presses of small size. 51 pp.; illustrated; 49 review questions;
+glossary.
+
+ 7. Cylinder Printing Presses                     By Herbert L. Baker
+
+Being a study of the mechanism and operation of the principal types of
+cylinder printing machines. 64 pp.; illustrated; 47 review questions;
+glossary.
+
+ 8. Mechanical Feeders and Folders             By William E. Spurrier
+
+The history and operation of modern feeding and folding machines; with
+hints on their care and adjustments. Illustrated; review questions;
+glossary.
+
+ 9. Power for Machinery in Printing Houses           By Carl F. Scott
+
+A treatise on the methods of applying power to printing presses and
+allied machinery, with particular reference to electric drive. 53 pp.;
+illustrated; 69 review questions; glossary.
+
+10. Paper Cutting Machines                          By Niel Gray, Jr.
+
+A primer of information about paper and card trimmers, hand-lever
+cutters, power cutters, and other automatic machines for cutting paper.
+70 pp.; illustrated; 115 review questions; glossary.
+
+11. Printers' Rollers                                By A. A. Stewart
+
+A primer of information about the composition, manufacture, and care of
+inking rollers. 46 pp.; illustrated; 61 review questions; glossary.
+
+12. Printing Inks                                    By Philip Ruxton
+
+Their composition, properties and manufacture (reprinted by permission
+from Circular No. 53, United States Bureau of Standards); together with
+some helpful suggestions about the everyday use of printing inks by
+Philip Ruxton. 80 pp.; 100 review questions; glossary.
+
+13. How Paper is Made                     By William Bond Wheelwright
+
+A primer of information about the materials and processes of
+manufacturing paper for printing and writing. 68 pp.; illustrated; 62
+review questions; glossary.
+
+14. Relief Engravings
+
+Brief history and non-technical description of modern methods of
+engraving: woodcut, zinc plate, halftone; kind of copy for
+reproduction; things to remember when ordering engravings. Illustrated;
+review questions; glossary.
+
+15. Electrotyping and
+    Stereotyping                    By Harris B. Hatch and A. A. Stewart
+
+A primer of information about the processes of electrotyping and
+stereotyping. 94 pp.; illustrated; 129 review questions; glossaries.
+
+
+PART II--_Hand and Machine Composition_
+
+16. Typesetting                                      By A. A. Stewart
+
+A handbook for beginners, giving information about justifying, spacing,
+correcting, and other matters relating to typesetting. Illustrated;
+review questions; glossary.
+
+17. Printers' Proofs                                 By A. A. Stewart
+
+The methods by which they are made, marked, and corrected, with
+observations on proofreading. Illustrated; review questions; glossary.
+
+18. First Steps in Job Composition                  By Camille DeVèze
+
+Suggestions for the apprentice compositor in setting his first jobs,
+especially about the important little things which go to make good
+display in typography. 63 pp.; examples; 55 review questions; glossary.
+
+19. General Job Composition
+
+How the job compositor handles business stationery, programs and
+miscellaneous work. Illustrated; review questions; glossary.
+
+20. Book Composition                                By J. W. Bothwell
+
+Chapters from De Vinne's "Modern Methods of Book Composition," revised
+and arranged for this series of text-books by J. W. Bothwell of The De
+Vinne Press, New York. Part I: Composition of pages. Part II:
+Imposition of pages. 229 pp.; illustrated; 525 review questions;
+glossary.
+
+21. Tabular Composition                              By Robert Seaver
+
+A study of the elementary forms of table composition, with examples of
+more difficult composition. 86 pp.; examples; 45 review questions.
+
+22. Applied Arithmetic                               By E. E. Sheldon
+
+Elementary arithmetic applied to problems of the printing trade,
+calculation of materials, paper weights and sizes, with standard tables
+and rules for computation, each subject amplified with examples and
+exercises. 159 pp.
+
+23. Typecasting and Composing Machines           A. W. Finlay, Editor
+
+  Section I--The Linotype                          By L. A. Hornstein
+  Section II--The Monotype                             By Joseph Hays
+  Section III--The Intertype                      By Henry W. Cozzens
+  Section IV--Other Typecasting and
+    Typesetting Machines                            By Frank H. Smith
+
+A brief history of typesetting machines, with descriptions of their
+mechanical principles and operations. Illustrated; review questions;
+glossary.
+
+
+PART III--_Imposition and Stonework_
+
+24. Locking Forms for the Job Press                 By Frank S. Henry
+
+Things the apprentice should know about locking up small forms, and
+about general work on the stone. Illustrated; review questions;
+glossary.
+
+25. Preparing Forms for the Cylinder Press          By Frank S. Henry
+
+Pamphlet and catalog imposition; margins; fold marks, etc. Methods of
+handling type forms and electrotype forms. Illustrated; review
+questions; glossary.
+
+
+PART IV--_Presswork_
+
+26. Making Ready on Platen Presses                    By T. G. McGrew
+
+The essential parts of a press and their functions; distinctive
+features of commonly used machines. Preparing the tympan, regulating
+the impression, underlaying and overlaying, setting gauges, and other
+details explained. Illustrated; review questions; glossary.
+
+27. Cylinder Presswork                                By T. G. McGrew
+
+Preparing the press; adjustment of bed and cylinder, form rollers, ink
+fountain, grippers and delivery systems. Underlaying and overlaying;
+modern overlay methods. Illustrated; review questions; glossary.
+
+28. Pressroom Hints and Helps                    By Charles L. Dunton
+
+Describing some practical methods of pressroom work, with directions
+and useful information relating to a variety of printing-press
+problems. 87 pp.; 176 review questions.
+
+29. Reproductive Processes of the Graphic Arts         By A. W. Elson
+
+A primer of information about the distinctive features of the relief,
+the intaglio, and the planographic processes of printing. 84 pp.;
+illustrated; 100 review questions; glossary.
+
+
+PART V--_Pamphlet and Book Binding_
+
+30. Pamphlet Binding                           By Bancroft L. Goodwin
+
+A primer of information about the various operations employed in
+binding pamphlets and other work in the bindery. Illustrated; review
+questions; glossary.
+
+31. Book Binding                                    By John J. Pleger
+
+Practical information about the usual operations in binding books:
+folding, gathering, collating, sewing, forwarding, finishing. Case
+making and cased-in books. Hand work and machine work. Job and
+blank-book binding. Illustrated; review questions; glossary.
+
+
+PART VI--_Correct Literary Composition_
+
+32. Word Study and English Grammar                  By F. W. Hamilton
+
+A primer of information about words, their relations, and their uses.
+68 pp.; 84 review questions; glossary.
+
+33. Punctuation                                     By F. W. Hamilton
+
+A primer of information about the marks of punctuation and their use,
+both grammatically and typographically. 56 pp.; 59 review questions;
+glossary.
+
+34. Capitals                                        By F. W. Hamilton
+
+A primer of information about capitalization, with some practical
+typographic hints as to the use of capitals. 48 pp.; 92 review
+questions; glossary.
+
+35. Division of Words                               By F. W. Hamilton
+
+Rules for the division of words at the ends of lines, with remarks on
+spelling, syllabication and pronunciation. 42 pp.; 70 review questions.
+
+36. Compound Words                                  By F. W. Hamilton
+
+A study of the principles of compounding, the components of compounds,
+and the use of the hyphen. 34 pp.; 62 review questions.
+
+37. Abbreviations and Signs                         By F. W. Hamilton
+
+A primer of information about abbreviations and signs, with classified
+lists of those in most common use. 58 pp.; 32 review questions.
+
+38. The Uses of Italic                              By F. W. Hamilton
+
+A primer of information about the history and uses of italic letters.
+31 pp.; 37 review questions.
+
+39. Proofreading                                    By Arnold Levitas
+
+The technical phases of the proofreader's work; reading, marking,
+revising, etc.; methods of handling proofs and copy. Illustrated by
+examples. 59 pp.; 69 review questions; glossary.
+
+40. Preparation of Printers' Copy                   By F. W. Hamilton
+
+Suggestions for authors, editors, and all who are engaged in preparing
+copy for the composing room. 36 pp.; 67 review questions.
+
+41. Printers' Manual of Style
+
+A reference compilation of approved rules, usages, and suggestions
+relating to uniformity in punctuation, capitalization, abbreviations,
+numerals, and kindred features of composition.
+
+42. The Printer's Dictionary                         By A. A. Stewart
+
+A handbook of definitions and miscellaneous information about various
+processes of printing, alphabetically arranged. Technical terms
+explained. Illustrated.
+
+
+PART VII--_Design, Color, and Lettering_
+
+43. Applied Design for Printers                      By Harry L. Gage
+
+A handbook of the principles of arrangement, with brief comment on the
+periods of design which have most influenced printing. Treats of
+harmony, balance, proportion, and rhythm; motion; symmetry and variety;
+ornament, esthetic and symbolic. 37 illustrations; 46 review questions;
+glossary; bibliography.
+
+44. Elements of Typographic Design                   By Harry L. Gage
+
+Applications of the principles of decorative design. Building material
+of typography: paper, types, ink, decorations and illustrations.
+Handling of shapes. Design of complete book, treating each part. Design
+of commercial forms and single units. Illustrations; review questions;
+glossary; bibliography.
+
+45. Rudiments of Color in Printing                   By Harry L. Gage
+
+Use of color: for decoration of black and white, for broad poster
+effect, in combinations of two, three, or more printings with process
+engravings. Scientific nature of color, physical and chemical. Terms in
+which color may be discussed: hue, value, intensity. Diagrams in color,
+scales and combinations. Color theory of process engraving. Experiments
+with color. Illustrations in full color, and on various papers. Review
+questions; glossary; bibliography.
+
+46. Lettering in Typography                          By Harry L. Gage
+
+Printer's use of lettering: adaptability and decorative effect.
+Development of historic writing and lettering and its influence on type
+design. Classification of general forms in lettering. Application of
+design to lettering. Drawing for reproduction. Fully illustrated;
+review questions; glossary; bibliography.
+
+47. Typographic Design in Advertising                By Harry L. Gage
+
+The printer's function in advertising. Precepts upon which advertising
+is based. Printer's analysis of his copy. Emphasis, legibility,
+attention, color. Method of studying advertising typography.
+Illustrations; review questions; glossary; bibliography.
+
+48. Making Dummies and Layouts                       By Harry L. Gage
+
+A layout: the architectural plan. A dummy: the imitation of a proposed
+final effect. Use of dummy in sales work. Use of layout. Function of
+layout man. Binding schemes for dummies. Dummy envelopes.
+Illustrations; review questions; glossary; bibliography.
+
+
+PART VIII--_History of Printing_
+
+49. Books Before Typography                         By F. W. Hamilton
+
+A primer of information about the invention of the alphabet and the
+history of book-making up to the invention of movable types. 62 pp.;
+illustrated; 64 review questions.
+
+50. The Invention of Typography                     By F. W. Hamilton
+
+A brief sketch of the invention of printing and how it came about. 64
+pp.; 62 review questions.
+
+51. History of Printing--Part I                     By F. W. Hamilton
+
+A primer of information about the beginnings of printing, the
+development of the book, the development of printers' materials, and
+the work of the great pioneers. 63 pp.; 55 review questions.
+
+52. History of Printing--Part II                    By F. W. Hamilton
+
+A brief sketch of the economic conditions of the printing industry from
+1450 to 1789, including government regulations, censorship, internal
+conditions and industrial relations. 94 pp.; 128 review questions.
+
+53. Printing in England                             By F. W. Hamilton
+
+A short history of printing in England from Caxton to the present time.
+89 pp.; 65 review questions.
+
+54. Printing in America                             By F. W. Hamilton
+
+A brief sketch of the development of the newspaper, and some notes on
+publishers who have especially contributed to printing. 98 pp.; 84
+review questions.
+
+55. Type and Presses in America                     By F. W. Hamilton
+
+A brief historical sketch of the development of type casting and press
+building in the United States. 52 pp.; 61 review questions.
+
+
+PART IX--_Cost Finding and Accounting_
+
+56. Elements of Cost in Printing                   By Henry P. Porter
+
+A primer of information about all the elements that contribute to the
+cost of printing and their relation to each other. Review questions.
+Glossary.
+
+57. Use of a Cost System                           By Henry P. Porter
+
+The Standard Cost-Finding Forms and their uses. What they should show.
+How to utilize the information they give. Review questions. Glossary.
+
+58. The Printer as a Merchant                      By Henry P. Porter
+
+The selection and purchase of materials and supplies for printing. The
+relation of the cost of raw material and the selling price of the
+finished product. Review questions. Glossary.
+
+59. Fundamental Principles of Estimating           By Henry P. Porter
+
+The estimator and his work; forms to use; general rules for estimating.
+Review questions. Glossary.
+
+60. Estimating and Selling                         By Henry P. Porter
+
+An insight into the methods used in making estimates, and their
+relation to selling. Review questions. Glossary.
+
+61. Accounting for Printers                        By Henry P. Porter
+
+A brief outline of an accounting system for printers; necessary books
+and accessory records. Review questions. Glossary.
+
+
+PART X--_Miscellaneous_
+
+62. Health, Sanitation, and Safety                 By Henry P. Porter
+
+Hygiene in the printing trade; a study of conditions old and new;
+practical suggestions for improvement; protective appliances and rules
+for safety.
+
+63. Topical Index                                   By F. W. Hamilton
+
+A book of reference covering the topics treated in the Typographic
+Technical Series, alphabetically arranged.
+
+64. Courses of Study                                By F. W. Hamilton
+
+A guidebook for teachers, with outlines and suggestions for classroom
+and shop work.
+
+
+
+
+ACKNOWLEDGMENT
+
+
+This series of Typographic Text-books is the result of the splendid
+co-operation of a large number of firms and individuals engaged in the
+printing business and its allied industries in the United States of
+America.
+
+The Committee on Education of the United Typothetae of America, under
+whose auspices the books have been prepared and published, acknowledges
+its indebtedness for the generous assistance rendered by the many
+authors, printers, and others identified with this work.
+
+While due acknowledgment is made on the title and copyright pages of
+those contributing to each book, the Committee nevertheless felt that a
+group list of co-operating firms would be of interest.
+
+The following list is not complete, as it includes only those who have
+co-operated in the production of a portion of the volumes, constituting
+the first printing. As soon as the entire list of books comprising the
+Typographic Technical Series has been completed (which the Committee
+hopes will be at an early date), the full list will be printed in each
+volume.
+
+The Committee also desires to acknowledge its indebtedness to the many
+subscribers to this Series who have patiently awaited its publication.
+
+    COMMITTEE ON EDUCATION,
+    UNITED TYPOTHETAE OF AMERICA.
+
+    HENRY P. PORTER, _Chairman_,
+    E. LAWRENCE FELL,
+    A. M. GLOSSBRENNER,
+    J. CLYDE OSWALD,
+    TOBY RUBOVITS.
+
+    FREDERICK W. HAMILTON, _Education Director_.
+
+
+
+
+CONTRIBUTORS
+
+
+For Composition and Electrotypes
+    ISAAC H. BLANCHARD COMPANY, New York, N.Y.
+    S. H. BURBANK & CO., Philadelphia, Pa.
+    J. S. CUSHING & CO., Norwood, Mass.
+    THE DE VINNE PRESS, New York, N.Y.
+    R. R. DONNELLEY & SONS CO., Chicago, Ill.
+    GEO. H. ELLIS CO., Boston, Mass.
+    EVANS-WINTER-HEBB, Detroit, Mich.
+    FRANKLIN PRINTING COMPANY, Philadelphia, Pa.
+    F. H. GILSON COMPANY, Boston, Mass.
+    STEPHEN GREENE & CO., Philadelphia, Pa.
+    W. F. HALL PRINTING CO., Chicago, Ill.
+    J. B. LIPPINCOTT CO., Philadelphia, Pa.
+    MCCALLA & CO. INC., Philadelphia, Pa.
+    THE PATTESON PRESS, New York.
+    THE PLIMPTON PRESS, Norwood, Mass.
+    POOLE BROS., Chicago, Ill.
+    EDWARD STERN & CO., Philadelphia, Pa.
+    THE STONE PRINTING & MFG. CO., Roanoke, Va.
+    C. D. TRAPHAGEN, Lincoln, Neb.
+    THE UNIVERSITY PRESS, Cambridge, Mass.
+
+For Composition
+    BOSTON TYPOTHETAE SCHOOL OF PRINTING, Boston, Mass.
+    WILLIAM F. FELL CO., Philadelphia, Pa.
+    THE KALKHOFF COMPANY, New York, N.Y.
+    OXFORD-PRINT, Boston, Mass.
+    TOBY RUBOVITS, Chicago, Ill.
+
+For Electrotypes
+    BLOMGREN BROTHERS CO., Chicago, Ill.
+    FLOWER STEEL ELECTROTYPING CO., New York, N.Y.
+    C. J. PETERS & SON CO., Boston, Mass.
+    ROYAL ELECTROTYPE CO., Philadelphia, Pa.
+    H. C. WHITCOMB & CO., Boston, Mass.
+
+For Engravings
+    AMERICAN TYPE FOUNDERS CO., Boston, Mass.
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