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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/34199-8.txt b/34199-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5c25dd2 --- /dev/null +++ b/34199-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,4794 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Peeps Into China, by E. C. Phillips + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Peeps Into China + Or: The Missionary's Children + +Author: E. C. Phillips + +Release Date: November 3, 2010 [EBook #34199] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PEEPS INTO CHINA *** + + + + +Produced by Emmy, Charlene Taylor and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + + + + + + + +[Illustration: A STREET SHOWMAN.] + + + + + +PEEPS INTO CHINA; OR, The Missionary's Children. + +BY E. C. PHILLIPS, + + AUTHOR OF "TROPICAL READING-BOOKS," "THE ORPHANS," "BUNCHY," + "HILDA AND HER DOLL," ETC. + +[Illustration] + + CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED: + _LONDON, PARIS, NEW YORK & MELBOURNE._ + + [ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.] + + + + + To + + MY DEAR PARENTS, + + IN + + LOVING MEMORY. + + "Can I forget thy cares, from helpless years + Thy tenderness for me?" + + + + +[Illustration: Contents.] + + + CHAPTER PAGE + I. THE COUNTRY RECTORY 9 + + II. THE FIRST PEEP 21 + + III. THE RELIGIONS OF CHINA 44 + + IV. CHINESE CHILDHOOD 69 + + V. THE MERCHANT SHOWMAN 89 + + VI. LITTLE CHU AND WOO-URH 100 + + VII. LEONARD'S EXPLOIT IN FORMOSA 114 + + VIII. THE BOAT POPULATION 134 + + IX. AT CANTON 153 + + X. A BRIDE AND BRIDEGROOM 179 + + XI. PROCESSIONS 197 + + XII. THE LAST PEEP 208 + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +THE COUNTRY RECTORY. + + +[Illustration] + +"NOT really; you can't mean it really!" + +"As true as possible. Mother told me her _very own_ self," was the +emphatic reply. + +Two children, brother and sister, the boy aged ten, the girl three years +older, were carrying on this conversation in the garden of a country +rectory. + +"But really and truly, on your word of honour," repeated Leonard, as +though he could not believe what his sister had just related to him. + +"I hope my word is always a word of honour; I thought everybody's word +ought to be that," Sybil Graham replied a little proudly, for when she +had run quickly to bring such important news to her brother, she could +not help feeling hurt that he should refuse to believe what she said. + +"And we are really going there, and shall actually see the 'pig-tails' +in their own country, and the splendid kites they fly, and all the +wonderful things that father used to tell us about? Oh! it seems too +good to be true." + +"But it is true," Sybil repeated with emphasis. "And I dare say we might +even see tea growing, as it does grow there, you know, and I suppose we +shall be carried about in sedan-chairs ourselves." She was really as +happy as her brother, only not so excitable. + +At this moment their mother joined them. "Oh, mother!" the boy then +exclaimed, "how beautiful! Sybil has just told me, but I could not +believe her." + +"I thought the news would delight you both very much," Mrs. Graham +answered. "Your father and I have been thinking about going to China for +some time, but we would not tell you anything about it until matters +were quite settled, and now everything seems to be satisfactorily +arranged for us to start in three months' time." + +"That will be in August, then," they both said at once. + +"Oh, how very beautiful!" Sybil exclaimed. "_I like my father to be a +missionary very much._ He must be glad too; isn't he, mother?" + +"Very glad indeed, although the joy will entail some sadness also. I +expect your father will grieve a good deal to leave this dear little +country parish of ours, and the duties he has so loved to perform here, +but a wider field of usefulness having opened out for him, he is very +thankful to obey the call." + +[Illustration: THE CHURCH.] + +"And father will do it so well, mother," answered Sybil. "I wonder +whether I shall be able to do anything to help him there?" + +"I think you have long since found out, Sybil," was her mother's loving +answer, "that you can always be doing something to help us." + +Sybil and Leonard had as yet only learnt a part of the story. They had +still to learn the rest. This going to China would not be all beautiful, +all joy for them, especially for Sybil, with her very affectionate +nature and dread of saying "Good-byes," for she and Leonard were only to +be taken out on a trip--a pleasure tour--to see something of China, and +to return to England to go on with their education at the end of six +months. + +Mr. Graham then calling his wife, the children were again left alone. + +It was no easy matter to go as a missionary to China. This Mr. Graham +well knew, for his father, although only for a short time, had been one +over there before him, and had discovered--what so many other later +brother missionaries have found out also--that to obtain even a hearing +on the subject of religion from a Chinaman, who has been trained and +brought up to be a superstitious idolater, very vain of his wisdom and +antiquity as a nation, and to look upon Europeans as barbarians, is +often a most difficult matter. + +Eighteen years before Mr. Graham the elder went out to Peking as one of +the first missionaries to China, and his only son, who had then just +qualified for the medical profession, accompanied him. A year later, the +father dying, his son returned at once to England, but with a changed +mind, determined now to seek holy orders and enter the ministry, instead +of following his profession, so as by thus doing to add one more to the +number of earnest clergy that his short stay in China had shown him were +so much needed. To carry out his resolution, he went to Oxford to +prepare, and soon after his ordination he married, and settled down, in +the little country village, where we find him, surrounded by his little +family. + +Often since then had he contemplated leaving England for missionary +work, but until now he had been prevented from carrying his wishes into +effect. + +His knowledge of medicine had not been lost to him, for many a sufferer +in the little, yet wide-spreading country parish, who lived at too great +a distance to send for the doctor for a slight ailment, had been very +thankful, when the clergyman came in to read and pray with him, to learn +from him what his slight ailment was, and how he could prevent its +becoming a great one. + +And this knowledge would be most helpful and invaluable in China, where +Mr. Graham knew that the science of medicine was held in veneration by +the inhabitants, and gained a ready admission to those who were glad to +be cured of bodily ailments, but knew not how sick their souls were. + +The missionary's slight acquaintance with the Chinese dialect, which, +when time permitted, he had endeavoured to keep up, would also be of +service to him when he arrived in China; for although the dialects of +the south, where he was going, were very different from those of the +north, the Mandarin, or Court language, spoken by the officials, was +understood in every part. + +"That's why father's been reading all those books lately with the +pig-tail pictures in, and wonderful kites, and why he has been studying +the language without an alphabet," Leonard said, when he and his sister +were again alone. "If I hadn't been at school so much, I expect I should +have found out what was going to happen." + +"I don't believe we should ever find out anything that father did not +wish us to know, however much we wanted to do so," answered Sybil. "But +isn't it splendid?--all but one thing, and that is having to leave +everybody, and my best friend Lily Keith. I shan't like doing that at +all." + +"And I shall miss my friends too, of course," said Leonard; "but then I +expect we shall make some new ones; and I thought you were so fond of +writing letters. Why, you could write splendid ones from China, and tell +Lily what we see, and perhaps mother would draw you some pictures for +them, for she can draw anything, you know." + +Sybil was comforted, for she was very fond of writing letters, and her +friend, she knew, would be very glad to have some from China. + +Directly after the six o'clock dinner was the children's hour with +father, who, being a very busy man, had to regulate all his time; but +this one hour a day belonged entirely to his family, and unless anything +unforeseen happened, they had and claimed every moment of it. + +Sybil came down-stairs first, and going up to her father, who was +sitting by a large bow window, gazing out of it, with a very serious +look on his face, she said with surprise as she kissed him: "You look +sad, dear father. Aren't you glad to go to China?" + +He drew her on to his knee. + +"Very glad, my darling," was the answer; "but I was just picturing to +myself some farewells that will have to be taken. I shall be very +sorry, too, to say 'Good-bye' here, where our lives have been so blessed +and our prayers so abundantly answered. We cannot help feeling sorry to +leave our old friends, can we?" + +"But you don't look, father," she continued, "as if that were all that +you had been thinking." + +"I dare say it was also about the work in which I am so soon to engage, +for that, Sybil, is full of grave responsibility; but now I think it is +my turn to ask what your thoughts are," he went on, for at that moment +Sybil was looking quite as grave as, just before, her father could have +looked. + +"I was remembering two verses of a piece of poetry that I learnt last +term at school, which I think must have been written for missionaries," +she replied. + +[Illustration: MAP OF CHINA.] + +Her father then asking her to repeat them to him, Sybil said:-- + + "Sow ye beside all waters, + Where the dew of heaven may fall; + Ye shall reap, if ye be not weary, + For the Spirit breathes o'er all. + Sow, though the thorns may wound thee; + One wore the thorns for thee; + And, though the cold world scorn thee, + Patient and hopeful be. + Sow ye beside all waters, + With a blessing and a prayer, + Name Him whose hand upholds thee, + And sow thou everywhere. + + "Work! in the wild waste places, + Though none thy love may own; + God guides the down of the thistle + The wandering wind hath sown. + Will Jesus chide thy weakness, + Or call thy labour vain? + The Word that for Him thou bearest + Shall return to Him again. + On!--with thine heart in heaven, + Thy strength--thy Master's might, + Till the wild waste places blossom + In the warmth of a Saviour's light." + +"Thank you, Sybil," said her father. "I am sure you will make a capital +little missionary's daughter some day." + +"To what part of China are we going, father?" she then asked; "to the +same place where you were before?" + +"No; quite in another direction. You know when I was last in China I was +at Peking, in the north, and now I am to be in Hong-Kong, an island in +the south; but we shall not go there direct, as I wish to take you to +see several places before finally landing." + +"Wait a minute, please, father," Sybil then exclaimed, "while I just +fetch my map to look them out as you tell them to me." And as she spoke +she ran off, to return the next minute with an atlas, in which she found +these places as her father mentioned them: Shanghai, Amoy, the Island of +Formosa, Swatow, Hong-Kong, Macao, and Canton. + +"I wish, father, you would tell us some day all you can remember about +Peking," then said Leonard, as he ran in and joined his father and +sister, having till now been very busy, first coaxing his good friend +the gardener to help him cut and put up some roosts in the fowl-house, +and then showing his handiwork to his mother. "You know what I mean: +something like what you used to tell us." + +[Illustration: LEONARD IN THE GARDEN.] + +"I will try to arouse up my memory, and tell you what I can on board +ship, when we shall have, I suppose, seven or eight weeks with very +little to do, and when you will, no doubt, be glad of some true stories +to while away the time." + +"I wish we were going to start to-morrow," rejoined Leonard, who was, I +am afraid, a boy without a particle of that virtue which we call +"patience." He wanted his mother now to go into the poultry-yard with +him to see the roosts he had, and as she liked to enter into all his +pleasures and useful occupations, she was very pleased to go. + +Before either of them came in again, Sybil had heard "the rest" from her +father; that she and Leonard were, after a six months' long holiday in +China, to return to England to continue their education. It was a +terrible blow to her, to whom a long separation from her parents seemed +almost like an impossibility. Her bright eyes filled with tears. + +"Oh, father!" she said; "and leave you and mother?" + +"It must be for a time, my darling, till your education is completed, as +your mother and I both wish you to remain at the school where you are, +but when school-days are over, about four years hence, I hope to be able +to have you out with us. It will be longer for poor old Leonard, won't +it?" + +"I don't think I care to go to China now, father," Sybil then said. + +"Oh yes you do, Sybil," was the answer; "you like your father to be a +missionary very much, you know, do you not?" Her mother had repeated +this saying. "And, my child," he continued, "you know that it must be a +dreadful trial for so very good and loving a mother as yours to part +from her children; but now that a call has come to me to do my Master's +work in a foreign land, and she is helping me to obey it, you would not +make her trial greater, would you, by letting her see you sad? Oh no! I +know you would not; but you would help us to do our duty more bravely. +Is it not so, my child?" + +Sybil buried her face on her father's shoulder, and sobbed, but on +seeing her mother coming up the garden towards them, she quickly wiped +her tears away, and tried to look cheerful. Her father had gone wisely +to work in giving her such a reason for trying to overcome her sorrow, +and he knew that now she would set herself bravely to work to help, and +not to hinder, her parents' undertaking. + +And they were not to be parted for nearly another year, she said to +herself, and meanwhile they were to have all sorts of enjoyments with +their parents. + +Mrs. Graham brought a message from Leonard for Sybil to go and see his +roosts, which she at once obeyed, affectionately kissing her mother as +she passed her. That was to say that she knew, and a great deal more. + +Another piece of news Sybil now conveyed to Leonard, and as she told it, +even he could not tell that it made her very unhappy. I wonder if he +believed at once this time! + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +THE FIRST PEEP. + + +THE missionary's family party had set sail, and the steamship, in which +they were passengers, was now fairly out at sea. + +As far as money was concerned, Mr. Graham had no anxieties, for being +the only son of a very wealthy man, who had lost his wife some time +before he died himself, Mr. Graham had, at his father's death, inherited +the whole of his large fortune. + +"Now, father, don't you think it's high time you began to tell us about +old Peking?" Leonard said, a few days after they had sailed. "I did not +ask you at first, because we had plenty to do to look about us, but now +that there's nothing in the world but water to see anywhere, we should +so like to hear some stories; so please begin, if it won't trouble you +too much." + +And sitting on deck, with Sybil on his right and Leonard on his left, +Mr. Graham did as he was requested, and gave his children what they +considered a very interesting description of a portion of that vast +empire which they were so soon to visit. "The Chinese," he began, "are a +very ancient race, so ancient, indeed, that the origin of their monarchy +is not known." + +"Do you mind waiting one minute, father, just to tell me a thing I have +forgotten, and you told me once?" Leonard asked. "What does the word +China mean?" + +"The ancient name for China, Tien-sha, means 'inferior only to heaven.' +Chinese history begins with the fabulous ages, two or three million +years ago, when the Chinese say that no land but theirs was inhabited, +and gods reigned upon the earth, which was made for them. After the +gods, they tell us, came mythical kings, who were giants, had the power +of working miracles, and lived for thousands of years; but it is really +supposed that the first people who passed beyond the deserts of Central +Asia settled in the province of Shen-si, which borders on Tartary, and +here laid the foundation of the present monarchy of China. + +"Some Chinese historians think that their first mortal Emperor was +Fuh-hi, whose date of coming to the throne is fixed as early as 2,852 +years B.C. He is described as possessing great virtues, and was called +by his subjects the 'Son of heaven'--a title which is still given to +Emperors of China, who are foolishly supposed, by some of their +subjects, to be of celestial origin. He is said to have taught them how +to keep laws and to live peaceably, also to have invented the arts of +music and numbers. Certainly the Chinese have understood music from very +early ages, and class it among the chief of the sciences. + +[Illustration: MUSICIANS.] + +"They have at least fifty different kinds of wind and string musical +instruments, made of wood, stone, or metal, and they play a great +deal, but especially upon their fiddle instruments. They do not like our +music at all. + +"But now we must go back to a little more Chinese history. There is +nothing to prove that the Chinese existed as a nation before the time of +Yu the Great, whose date of accession is said to be 2,285 years B.C., +and he is also included in the Legendary Period to which Fuh-hi belongs. +After the Legendary Period came the Semi-Historical Period in Chinese +history; the really Historical Period dating from the early part of the +eighth century before Christ. + +"Different dynasties succeeded each other, till from the years 500 to +200 B.C. many petty kings, reigning over various provinces, waged war +against one another. At length a fierce warrior, named Ching-wang, went +to war with, and conquered, all of them, and made himself master of the +whole empire, about 200 years B.C., his government comprising about the +northern half of modern China. He was the first monarch of the dynasty +called Tsin, or Chin. Next he turned his arms against the Tartars, who +were a portion of those people whom we read of in history by the name of +Huns, and who were now making constant inroads into China. They were +capital soldiers--I believe every Tartar has now to be a soldier--and as +the Chinese dreaded them very much, the Emperor thought out a way to +keep them off. He erected a great wall along the whole extent of the +northern frontier of China, of very great height, thickness, and +strength, made of two walls of brick many feet apart, the space between +them being, for half the length of the wall, filled up with earth, and +the other half with gravel and rubbish. On it were square towers, which +were erected at about a hundred yards' distance from one another. Some +say this wall extended 1,500 miles from the sea to the most western +provinces of Shen-si; McCulloch says it is 1,250 miles in length. It was +carried over mountains and across rivers. Six horsemen could ride +abreast upon it. But there was great cruelty practised in its +construction, for the Emperor obliged every third labouring man in the +kingdom to work at this wall without payment. + +[Illustration: GREAT WALL OF CHINA, GULF OF PE-CHI-LI.] + +"It took five years to finish, and has now existed for more than two +thousand years. It is called Wan-li-chang, or Myriad-mile Wall." + +"And did it keep out the Tartars?" Leonard asked. + +"No; the little Emperor Tsai-tien, born in 1871, and now on the throne, +is, I believe, a descendant of theirs. He is called Kwang-su, which +means 'Continuation of glory.'" + +"Does the Emperor's eldest son always reign?" + +"No; the ablest or best son is generally chosen. Ching-wang seemed to +think that he was master of the whole universe, and called himself +Che-Hwang-ti, or First Emperor; and then to try to show that he was the +founder of the monarchy, he had, as he thought, all the historical +documents burnt that could prove otherwise, but did not succeed, for +some that had been hidden behind the walls of houses were found after +his death." + +"What a quantity of stuff it must have taken to build the wall!" said +Leonard. + +"Yes; the material in the Great Wall, including the earth in the middle +of it, is said to be more than enough to surround the circumference of +the earth, on two of its great circles, with two walls of six feet high +and two feet thick. Guards are stationed in the strong towers by which +the wall is fortified; every important pass having a strong fortress." + +"And what is the height of the wall, father?" asked Leonard. + +"About twenty feet; and there are steps of brick and stone for men on +foot to ascend, and slanting places for the cavalry." + +"I shall like to see Chinese soldiers," Leonard said. "Did you ever see +them at drill, father?" + +[Illustration: CHINESE ARTILLERY-MEN, PEKING.] + +"I remember very well seeing a regiment of artillery at gun-drill one +day, but I believe there has been a new armament of Chinese artillery +since my time. I suppose you know, children," then said Mr. Graham, +"that Peking ranks----" + +"For the number of its inhabitants," Sybil said quickly, "as the second +city in the world, only London having more inhabitants, Paris about the +same number." + +"Yes; and it has----" + +"About two million inhabitants." + +"Yes; and as Peking was built many centuries before the Christian era, +it is a very old city. The name Peking means Court of the North. After +the conquest by the Tartars of the kingdom of Yen, of which Peking was +the capital, it became only a provincial town, when, at the beginning of +the fifteenth century, it was again made the capital of China. The +Chinese sovereigns used to live at Nanking, but when the Tartars had so +often invaded the country, they removed to the northern province, to +enable them the more easily to keep out the invaders." + +"On our Chinese umbrella that we had in the dining-room fireplace at +home," said Sybil, "there was, I remember, a picture of Peking, and some +water was close by it, but I cannot remember what river Peking is on." + +"It is situated in a large sandy plain on the Tunghui, a small tributary +of the Peiho. This city is again divided into the Chinese and Tartar +cities, the Imperial city, in which live the Emperor and his retainers, +and another in which the court officials have their residence. + +"Like all other Chinese cities, they are surrounded by high walls. At +the north, south, east, and west sides of towns are large folding-gates, +which are often further secured by three inner gates. The one in the +south is that of honour, through which the Emperor passes, but which is +usually kept closed at other times. + +[Illustration: CIEAN-MUN, OR CHEAN-GATE AT PEKING.] + +"The wall of Peking, which is sixteen miles round, has two gates on +three sides and three on the other, of which the principal is Chean-Mun, +at the south of the Tartar city. Over the gate is a building occupied by +soldiers, who are there for purposes of defence. + +[Illustration: CHINESE SOLDIER.] + +[Illustration: STREET OF HATA-MÈNE-TA-KIE, PEKING.] + +"The streets in Peking are very broad; we shall find them much narrower +in the south of China. They are raised in the centre, and covered with a +kind of stone, to form a smooth, hard surface. In summer they are often, +I remember, very dusty, and during the rainy seasons very dirty. At the +end of each street is a wooden barrier, which is guarded day and night +by soldiers. The barrier is closed at nine o'clock at night, after which +time the Chinese are only allowed to pass through if they have a very +good reason to give for being out so late. + +"Order is well kept in the streets of Peking by the soldiers and police, +who may use their whips on troublesome customers whenever they think it +necessary to do so. + +"The principal streets, or main thoroughfares, extending from one end of +the city to the other, are its only outlets. Trees grow in several of +these streets. Houses, in which the inhabitants live, are in smaller +streets or lanes, the houses themselves being often shut in by walls. + +"Pagodas (which, you know, are temples to heathen gods, built in the +form of towers), monasteries, and churchyards, are all outside the +walls, and the city itself is principally kept for purposes of +commerce." + +"We know what pagodas are like," Leonard said, "because we had two at +home for ornaments. I think we know many things through being so +fortunate as to have a father who has travelled." + +[Illustration: CHINESE BARBER.] + +"There is a great noise in some of the streets," Mr. Graham went on: +"for instance, in the Hata-mène-ta-kie, where many people are to be seen +bustling about and talking very loudly to one another. Tents are here +put up in which rice, fruit, and other things are sold, and any one +wishing for a pretty substantial meal can be supplied with it in the +Hata-mène-ta-kie, for before stoves stand the vendors of such meals, who +have cooked them ready for purchasers. Other tradesmen carry hampers, +slung across their shoulders, in which they keep their goods, whilst +they call out, from time to time, to let people know what these hampers +contain. Carts, horses, mules, wheel-barrows, and sedan-chairs pass +along, the whole place seeming to be alive with buyers and sellers. The +cobbler is sure to be somewhere close at hand in his movable workshop, +and first here and then there, as may best suit himself and employers, +the blacksmith pitches his tent, which sometimes consists of a large +umbrella; whilst, again, people can refresh themselves, if they do not +care for a heavier meal, with some soup or a patty at a soup stall. + +"And the barber does not forget that he is a very useful person. There, +in the open streets, he communicates, by the tinkling of a little bell, +the fact that he is ready to shave the heads and arrange the cues or +pig-tails of those who may require his services; and as one man after +another takes the seat that has been put ready for him, the barber not +only shaves and plaits, but also frequently paints his customer's +eyebrows and gives his clothes a brush." + +"Father, why do Chinamen wear pig-tails?" here broke in Leonard, who, +with Sybil, was very much interested in what he heard. + +"After they were conquered by the Tartars they were obliged to wear +them, to show that they were in subjection to their conquerors; but now +the pig-tail is held in honour, and the longer it will grow the better +pleased is the Chinese gentleman who wears it. Some very bad criminals +have their tails cut off as a great punishment and disgrace. + +"Well, what should you like to hear now?" Mr. Graham asked, after a +little pause. + +"What Chinese shops are like, I think," said Sybil. + +[Illustration: A SHOP IN PEKING.] + +"Most of those in China are quite open in front; where we are going I +suppose we shall see very few, if any, shop-windows at all, but in +Peking many of the shops have glass windows. In China there are +certain streets for certain shops, where the different branches of +trade have generally their own sides of the road. A shop is called a +hong. Sometimes the master sits outside, waiting for his customers to +arrive. + +[Illustration: SIGN-BOARD OF A CUSHION AND MATTING MANUFACTORY.] + +"At the door of each hong are sign-boards, upon which are painted in +gold, or coloured letters, a motto instead of a name, and what the shop +offers for sale. + +"I do not think," Mr. Graham then said, drawing, as he spoke, a little +representation of a sign-board out of his pocket-book, "that I ever +showed you this." + +"Oh no!" both the children answered. "And what do those characters +mean?" + +On another piece of paper Mr. Graham pointed out to them the following +interpretation: + + =Teën= + =Yee= + =Shun= + Fung Poo + Seih Tian + =Tëen= + +[Illustration: A TWO-WHEELED CART.] + +"The three first large characters, which form the motto, may be taken to +signify that 'Heaven favours the prudent.' The other smaller characters +designate the nature of the business, a cushion and matting +manufactory; the last character, without which no sign-board is +complete, meaning shop or factory." + +"I shall like to see these sign-boards very much when we get to China," +Sybil said. "I should think they must make the streets look very +pretty." + +Mr. Graham had illustrated several things which he had told the children +by some pictures which he had brought on board with him. + +[Illustration: A YOUNG FARMER AND HIS PARENTS.] + +Leonard was now looking again at that of Chean Mun, or Chean Gate, for +Mun means gate. + +"I have been noticing, father," he then said, "that all the carts in +this picture have only two wheels." + +"I never saw any in China with more," was the answer. "Both shut and +open carts (the latter being used as carriages) have all two wheels. +Those in common use are made of wood, the body of the cart resting on +an axle-tree, supported by the wheels. Horses and mules are very little +used in China, except for travelling and for conveying luggage long +distances. I remember also noticing that horses and ponies require very +little guiding in China. Sometimes they go without reins, when their +masters will perhaps walk beside them, carrying a whip. I have also seen +very polite drivers, who, whenever they met a friend, jumped off their +carts and walked on foot to pass one another. + +[Illustration: A CHINESE JUNK.] + +[Illustration: FLYING KITES.] + +"Government servants generally use ponies, but as China is so densely +populated--having, it has been estimated, about four hundred million +inhabitants, and people find it so hard to obtain enough to support +themselves and families--they keep as few beasts of burden as possible. +The farmer employs the bullock a great deal, and in the north of China +the camel is also much used. + +"Much trade is carried on by boats, and where there is no water, and +farmers are without other conveyances, they will sometimes push their +wives along the roads in wheel-barrows, sons giving their parents +similar drives. There are but few carriage-roads in many parts of +China." + +"I wonder the Chinese do not make more, then," said Leonard. + +"They cannot afford to do so, because to make them bread-producing land +would have to be done away with." + +"What a number of rivers and bays there are in China!" said Sybil, who +was again examining her map. "And I see the Great Wall crosses the +Hwang-ho." + +"And that's the fifth largest river in the world," Leonard answered. +"Only the Amazon, Mississippi, Nile, and Yantze-kiang are larger; and +the Grand Canal in China is the very largest canal in the world." + +"I learnt once, too, that Hwang-ho meant 'Chinese sorrow.' Why is it +called that?" + +"Because it has altered its course, which has caused great loss and +inconvenience to the Chinese." + +"And what does 'Yantze-kiang' mean?" + +"The son that spreads; this is their favourite river." + +Geography was one of Leonard's favourite studies. + +"Why do so many Chinese rivers end in ho and kiang?" he then asked, +looking over Sybil's map. + +"Both words mean river--the Yantze and the Hwang rivers. And the Chinese +have all kinds of boats for use on their rivers. Here, my boy, is a +picture of a Chinese junk. Look at it well, and see if you can discover +anything peculiar about it." + +Leonard looked for some time. "It has sails," he answered, "like +butterflies' wings." + +"Yes; that is how the Chinese make many of their sails." + +"But the kites are what I want to see so much," said Leonard, as though +the sails had reminded him of them again. "What are the most peculiar of +them like?" + +"Like birds, insects, animals, clusters of birds, gods on clouds: all +kinds of things, in fact, are represented by these kites, which the +Chinese are most clever in making, and also in flying. I have seen old +men, of about seventy years of age, thoroughly enjoying flying their +kites. The Chinese do not care much for your, and my, favourite games, +Leonard: cricket and football." + +"What games do they like?" + +"They are very fond of battledore and shuttlecock, but instead of using +a battledore they hit the shuttlecock with their heads, elbows, or feet. +Seven or eight children play together, and nearly always aim the +shuttlecock rightly. Girls play at this game too, in spite of their +small feet. Tops, balls, see-saws, and quoits are also favourite toys +and games amongst the Chinese." + +"I remember," Sybil said, "a girl at school having a Chinese +shuttlecock, and that was like a bird." + +"Well, father, go on, please. What other amusements have they?" asked +Leonard. + +"Puppet-shows for one thing I remember, which they exhibit in the +streets, as we do 'Punch and Judy.' The pictures in these shows are +exhibited by means of strings, which are either worked from behind or +from above the stand, and as the people look through a glass, the views +are displayed to them. A man standing at the side calls out loudly, and +beats a little gong to summon people to attend the show. And now I +think, as I am rather tired for to-day, I shall beat a little gong to +dismiss you from the show," Mr. Graham said, smiling, as he turned +towards his children, who never seemed to grow tired of listening. + +"Very well, father; we will go now, and let you rest," Sybil replied, +standing up. "Thank you so much. To-morrow, you know, we shall come to +the show again, so please remember to sound the gong in good time." And +off they bounded, leaving Mr. Graham at liberty to go and seek his wife, +who was then lying down in her cabin. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration] + + + +CHAPTER III. + +THE RELIGIONS OF CHINA. + + +[Illustration: LI-HUNG.] + +"WILL you please tell us to-day, father, something about the religion of +the Chinese? I know they worship idols, but how do they believe in +them?" Sybil asked, as soon as their "Peep-show," as the children +continued to call their father's stories, began the next afternoon. +During the morning she had sat and read to her mother, who still felt +the motion of the vessel very much, and had therefore to lie down part +of the day. + +"I will try to do so," was the answer; "but I think what you hear may +puzzle you a good deal, for they have very strange creeds." + +"Did grandfather make many converts?" + +"Very few indeed; but then he was one of our very first missionaries to +Peking, so was most thankful for the very little which he was enabled to +do. + +[Illustration: A CITIZEN OF TIENT-SIN.] + +"I remember two men for whose conversion from Buddhism he often gave +thanks. One was a citizen of Tientsin, where we landed on our way to the +capital. + +"This good fellow, who was then a very questionable character, was +smoking his pipe in a most indifferent manner, when my father, through +his teacher, first addressed him. Missionaries in China, you know, have +teachers of the dialects." + +"Shall you have one?" + +"Of course. Well, this man would not listen at all at first, and was +very angry at my father's interference; but after a while we met him +again at Peking, and in time both he and his wife learnt to believe, and +to long for Christian baptism, before receiving which they not only left +off worshipping their family idols, but even destroyed them. A short +time ago I heard that this man had become a native lay teacher, and was +a great help to the mission, as he could, of course, always make himself +understood to his own countrymen, who were also not unlikely to be won +by his example." + +"What was his name?" asked Leonard. + +"Tung-Sean." + +"And that of the other convert?" + +"Li-Hung. He was a much older man, and was sitting, I remember, the day +we first saw him, in a field, resting from his work, and as he caught +sight of my father he began to call him all sorts of names, amongst +which was to be heard very often that of 'foreign devil.' I believe he +even looked for stones to throw at us. Your grandfather--always a very +quiet, self-possessed man--just dropped some tracts at his side, +translated into Chinese. We often saw Li-Hung again, and though he gave +us much trouble, a month before my father died he had the happiness also +of witnessing this man's conversion to the true faith." + +"Grandfather must have been very pleased," Sybil said. + +"He was; but I think now I have something rather interesting to tell you +of our journey from Tientsin to Peking. We went in carts drawn by two +mules, one in front of the other, and at night we slept at inns, where, +I think, you would like to hear about our sleeping accommodation. It was +winter, and as the Peking winter is cold, people there, to make +themselves warm at night, sleep on kangs. As these were different at +both inns to which we went, I will tell you about both. + +[Illustration: A KANG.] + +"In one the kang consisted of a platform built of brick, so much larger +than a bed that several people could sleep on it at once. A kind of +tunnel passed through the platform, which had a chimney at one end, +whilst at the other end, a little while before bed-time, a small +quantity of dry fuel was set on fire, when the flame passed through the +tunnel and out of the chimney. In this way the kang was warmed, when +felt matting was put upon it. Here we lay down, and were covered over +with a kind of cotton-wool counterpane. + +[Illustration: BOATS ON THE RIVER PEI-HO AT TIENT-SIN.] + +"The kang in the other inn was warmed by a little stove from underneath, +which also served in the day-time for cooking purposes, when the +bed-clothes were removed from the kang, on which mats, and even little +tables, were also sometimes put, until it became a sofa; so it was very +useful." + +The children laughed. + +"We are not hearing about the religion yet, though," Sybil said. + +"Oh, do let us hear just a little more about Peking and Tientsin first," +Leonard answered. "How far is Tientsin from the capital?" + +"Eighty miles. And do you know what river it is on?" + +Leonard considered. "It must be an important one, I should think, as it +carries things, doesn't it, from the sea-coast to near to Peking?" + +"It is only a river of secondary importance, but the principal one of +the province of Pe-chili. Now for its name." Sybil referred to her map. + +"The Pei-ho, of course," they exclaimed together. "And I suppose there +is ever so much traffic on it?" Leonard said; "with no end of ships to +be seen?" + +"Yes, a good many may be seen there. I have a picture of boats on the +River Pei-ho." + +"What sort of flags do Chinese boats have, father? I do not see any +hoisted here." + +"The Imperial Navy is divided into river and sea-going vessels, the +former consisting of 1,900 ships, the latter of 918; and there are +188,000 sailors. Ships in the Imperial Navy generally fly a flag at the +main, on which red lines are drawn, or sometimes a tri-colour is hoisted +there instead. Red would, I suppose, be for safety, as this is the +'lucky' colour of the Chinese. At the stern of the vessel I remember +seeing the name of the official who directs and superintends the ship." + +"Isn't Tientsin noted for something?" Sybil then asked. + +[Illustration: MINISTER OF FOREIGN AFFAIRS.] + +"Yes; for the treaty of June 26th, 1858, between the Chinese and +British, some of the terms of which were that the Christian religion +should be protected by Chinese authorities, that British subjects should +be allowed to travel in the country for pleasure or business, under +passports issued by their consul, and that the Queen might acquire a +building site at Peking." + +"But now the religion, please, father," she said again. + +"Very well; but you must pay great attention to what I say, or you will +not understand. Most of the Chinese are either Confucianists, Buddhists, +or Taouists, although there are also Jews and Mahometans amongst them. +At one time it is supposed that the people of China had really a +knowledge of the true God, and that when they worshipped, in much the +same sort of manner as did the patriarchs, Him whom they call Wang-teen, +or Shang-ti, which means Supreme Ruler, they worshipped God. + +"But mixing with this an idolatrous worship of departed ancestors, they +nearly lost sight of the Supreme Ruler, the jealous God, Who, we know, +claims all our worship. + +"About the latter half of the sixth century before Christ, Confucius, a +great and clever philosopher of China, who was born 551 B.C., wrote and +put together books that held very moral and good maxims, afterwards +called 'The Classics.' + +"He taught that men must always be obedient to those to whom they are in +subjection: people to prince, child to parent, filial piety being +enforced before every other duty. He was very anxious to improve the +manners of the people; but women he ranked very low. Confucianism +is--but perhaps you will not understand this--more a philosophy than a +religion. Its followers have no particular form of worship, and no +priesthood. The Pearly Emperor, Supreme Ruler, is their deity, but +worship is seldom offered to him, and then only by a few. + +"Although Confucius disapproved very much of idols, after he was dead +many of his followers worshipped him. + +[Illustration: A MANDARIN.] + +"Confucianists do not believe in a future state of rewards and +punishments, but think that their good and bad deeds will be rewarded +here by riches or poverty, long or short life, good or bad health. +Conscience is to lead people aright, and tell them when they do wrong. + +"The high mandarins and literary people are generally Confucianists; +school-boys also worship an idol or tablet of the sage, in which his +spirit is supposed to dwell. + +"There is a temple to the honour of 'The Great Teacher' in every large +town; and on great occasions, and always in spring-time and autumn, +sacrifices are here offered, the Emperor himself, as high priest, +presiding at these two ceremonies in Peking, the chief mandarins of his +court giving him assistance. In temples of Confucius idols are very +seldom to be seen. + +"The Confucianists are taught that man was originally good, his nature +being given by heaven, and that sin came through union of the soul with +matter." + +"What are mandarins, please, father?" asked Leonard. + +"Chinese officials, of which there are many grades, and many in each +grade, all of whom are paid by Government. To every province there is a +viceroy, to every city a governor, and to the village a mandarin, who is +elected to rule over it for three years; and all these, again, have many +officers under them. There are also a great many military mandarins. A +great mark of imperial favour is to allow mandarins, civil or military, +to wear a peacock's feather in their caps, which hangs down over the +back, and the ball placed on the top shows, by its colour and material, +the rank of the wearer. Soldiers fighting very bravely are often buoyed +up with the hope of receiving one of these feathers. + +"Mandarins, who stand in a sort of fatherly relationship towards their +people, although they do not always behave like fathers towards them, +look for implicit obedience from them." + +"Can a mandarin be punished when he does wrong?" Leonard asked. "And +what sort of dress does he wear?" + +[Illustration: A MANDARIN WITH PEACOCK'S FEATHER.] + +"He can be punished when he does wrong; and as well as I can remember, +those mandarins that I saw, who were in high office, wore a long, loose +robe of blue silk, embroidered with gold threads. This reached to their +ankles, being fastened round their waists with a belt. Over this was a +violet tunic, coming just below the knees, which had very wide, long +sleeves, usually worn turned back, but if not, hanging over the hands." + +"Will you please go on about the religion now, father?" Sybil then said. +"You had just told us that the Confucianists were taught that man was +made good." + +"Yes; and their worship is paid almost entirely to their ancestors, +which worship they look upon as a continuation of the reverence they had +been taught to show them while on earth. I will tell you more about +ancestral worship presently. + +"Many people, as you can well understand, were not satisfied with +Confucianism as a religion, as it could not satisfy their spiritual +wants, especially as the Pearly Emperor, or Supreme Ruler, generally +looked upon as the highest divinity worshipped by the Chinese, might +only be approached by the Emperor and his court; so another sect sprang +up, having a philosopher named La-outze, who was born 604 B.C., for its +founder. He thought that to grow perfect he must seclude himself from +other people, and in his retirement was always looking for the Taou-le, +the meaning of which you will hardly understand--the cause or the end of +all things. His followers are called Taouists. This philosopher says in +his book that 'it is by stillness, and contemplation, and union with +Taou, that virtue is to be achieved'--Taou here meaning a principle and +a way. He said that virtue consisted in losing sight of oneself, and +that man should love even his enemies, and go through life as if none of +his possessions belonged to himself. The Taouists say that 'Taou is +without substance, and eternal, and the universe coming from him exists +in the silent presence of Taou everywhere,' and that only those who +become very virtuous are happy. + +"La-outze is now worshipped by the Taouists as the third of a trinity +of persons, called 'The Three Pure Ones.' + +"He is said, when born, to have had long white hair, and is therefore +represented as an old man, and called 'old boy.' The Chinese assert that +his mother was fed with food from heaven, and that when he was born he +jumped up into the air, and said, as he pointed with his left hand to +heaven and his right hand to the earth, 'Heaven above, earth beneath: +only Taou is honourable.' The Taouist trinity are supposed to live in +the highest heaven; and Taouists used to spend a great deal of time in +seeking for a drink that they thought would make them live for ever. +Subduing evil is by some of them supposed to secure immortality to the +soul. + +"Their priests are often very ignorant men, but they are believed in by +the people, and are employed by them to perform superstitious rites." + +"Oh, father! Isn't it a dreadful pity that they should believe so many +things like Christians, even in a trinity, and the duty of loving one's +enemies, and only be heathens after all?" + +"It is indeed; but the more we see of heathens, Sybil, the more we shall +notice how they cannot help feeling after truth and grasping some parts +of it, which seem as though they were a very necessity to religion. +These Taouist priests are often called in by the people to exorcise, or +drive away, evil spirits, to cure sick people and commune with the +dead." + +"Oh, father! I do so like this Peep-show. Please tell us now about the +people of the other sect." + +[Illustration: A BUDDHIST PRIEST.] + +"They are the Buddhists, who also worship a trinity; indeed, Taouists +are thought to have taken that idea from them. As early as 250 B.C. +Buddhist missionaries came over from India to China, but the religion +did not really take root until an emperor named Hing, of the Han +dynasty, introduced it, in the first century of the Christian era, about +66 A.D. This emperor is said to have seen in a dream, in the year of our +Lord 61, an image of a foreign god coming into his palace, and in +consequence he was advised to adopt the religion of Buddha, when he sent +to India for an idol and some priests. Towards the end of the thirteenth +century there were more than 4,200 Buddhist temples in China, and more +than 213,000 monks. The Buddhist trinity is called Pihte, or the Three +Precious Ones: Buddha Past, Buddha Present, and Buddha Future, and +dreadfully ugly idols they are. The Buddhist's idea of heaven is +Nirvâna, or rest, or more properly speaking, extinction. The Chinese +Buddhist thinks that a man possesses three souls or spirits, one of +which accompanies the body to the grave, another passes into his +ancestral tablet to be worshipped, and the third enters into one, or +all, of the ten kingdoms of the Buddhistic hell, into which people pass +after death, there to receive punishments according to the lives they +have led upon earth. From the tenth kingdom they pass back to earth, to +inhabit the form of a man, beast, bird, or insect, as they may have +deserved, unless during life a man has attained to a certain state of +perfection, when he mounts to the highest heaven, and perhaps becomes a +god or buddha. But even from the Western Paradise a spirit has sometimes +to return to earth. Should a man have been good in all the various lives +that he has lived, he is supposed to attain, I believe, to this Nirvâna, +or extinction." + +"What a wonderful belief!" Sybil said. "So they cannot believe at all in +the immortality of the soul?" + +"No, they do not." + +"I should like to see a Buddhist priest very much," Leonard said. + +[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO A BUDDHIST MONASTERY.] + +"I dare say you will see a good many when you get to China. They live +together in monasteries, sometimes in great numbers, and these +monasteries are prettily situated, surrounded by lakes and gardens. They +consist of a number of small buildings, to the principal of which is a +large entrance, that has inscriptions on either side of the gateway." + +[Illustration: A MONASTERY.] + +"Are the priests very good men?" asked Leonard. + +[Illustration: A GONG.] + +"Very often, I am afraid, just the reverse; but this is not to be +wondered at, for criminals in China, to escape from justice, will +sometimes shave their heads, and seek refuge by becoming Buddhist +priests. When they take their vows--some taking nine, some twelve--for +each one a cut is made in their arms to help them to remember it. Some +of the vows resemble the commandments setting forth our duty towards our +neighbour. A Buddhist priest, in China, wears a wide turn-over collar; +when he officiates he often dresses in a yellow robe made of silk or +cotton, but he is only allowed to wear silk when he does officiate. At +other times his garments are of white or ash colour, or he wears a long, +grey cowl with flowing sleeves. Buddhist priests shave all their hair +two or three times a month. They think it is of great use to repeat +their classics very often to the gods, and keep an account of the number +of times they say them on their beads. I fancy they use brooms wherewith +to sprinkle holy water. There are four special commandments for +Buddhists, both priests and people: not to destroy animal life, not to +steal, not to speak falsely, and not to drink wine. In monasteries the +refectories of the priests are very large, and they have all to sit at +dinner, so that the abbot, who is at their head, can see their faces. +They are called to breakfast and dinner by a gong, where they have to +appear in their cowls. Gongs are very much used in China, and are to be +seen at all the temples. When the priest, who presides, comes in, they +all rise, and putting their hands together, say grace. After the food +has been so blessed, some is put outside as an offering to the fowls of +the air. During dinner the priests may not speak, and on the walls of +the refectory are boards, on which are written warnings, such as not to +eat too quickly; also the rules of the monastery." + +"That would not have done for you, Leonard, when you thought you would +be late for school, and gobbled your dinner anyhow," said Sybil. + +"How many gods have the Chinese?" asked Leonard. + +[Illustration: WORSHIP IN A LAMASARY, BUDDHIST TEMPLE.] + +"So many that it would be impossible to say, and the Celestials (as the +Chinese are often called, from naming their country the Celestial Land) +are not particular how they worship them; Taouists, for instance, +worshipping those who are peculiarly Buddhist divinities, and Buddhists +invoking, in return, their gods. Indeed, the three religions have so +borrowed from one another, and people have believed so much as they +liked, that the Chinese themselves often do not know to which religion +they belong, and are either all or none, pretty well as they choose. The +Buddhism of China is not at all the pure Buddhism, and has been much +corrupted by its professors." + +"Who was the founder of Buddhism?" + +"An Indian prince, of beautiful character, born 620 B.C., and called +Shâkyamuni Buddha, who left wealth and luxury to go about relieving +suffering wherever he found it. After he died his followers believed +that he was transformed into a god, having three different forms." + +"Tell us some of the gods, please." + +"A god of rain; a god of wind; a god of thunder; a god of wealth, the +latter worshipped very much by tradesmen; a god of thieves; a goddess of +thunder; a guardian goddess of women and little children, called Kum-fa, +whose ten attendants watch over children, helping them to eat, and +teaching them to smile and walk; a god of wine; a god of fire; a goddess +of mercy; a goddess of sailors; a goddess of children, called 'Mother'; +a god of the kitchen; a god of measles, a god of small-pox. Then the +Confucianists worship two stars, who are supposed to look after +literature and drawing, the former called the god of literature. And +besides household gods belonging to every family, there are a god of the +passing year, and numerous others. Many of the gods are deified persons +who once lived on earth." + +[Illustration: TEMPLE OF THE MOON, PEKING.] + +"What a number!" Sybil said. "But who, then, is the great Lama? You have +not told us anything about him yet, and I heard you speaking about him +the other day." + +"There is another form of Buddhism, called Lamaism, and this, though it +prevails principally in Thibet and Mongolia, has also its followers in +Peking. The Great Lama, or Living Buddha, is the head of this." + +"And he is a living man?" + +"Yes; but his soul is said never to die; therefore, when he dies it is +supposed to pass into an infant whom the priests select by a likeness +that they trace to the late Lama. I one day saw worship going on in a +Lama temple." + +"Have you a picture of it, father?" Leonard asked, who was getting a +little tired of these descriptions, which Sybil liked so much. + +"Yes, and I think it a very good one. In the centre, facing the +worshippers, is a very large idol indeed of Buddha. To the right and +left of the temple are smaller idols. Some gods in temples do not +receive worship, but guard the doors. Incense is burning in front; the +high priest, to the right, is lifting up his hands in adoration, whilst +the people offer scented rods and tapers to Buddha. As they light their +offerings they kow-tow, or hit their heads upon the floor. This is the +Chinese way of reverent, respectful salutation. The devotees are grouped +in squares. + +"Then I forgot to tell you that the Sun and Moon are also worshipped. +Whilst in Peking, I went to a temple of the Moon. It was on the day of +the autumnal equinox, when, at six o'clock in the evening, a very solemn +sacrifice is offered, and the great ladies of the capital meet to burn +their tapers. I approached this temple by a long avenue of beautiful +trees. The temple was large; but I noticed that more women than men had +come to attend the ceremonies." + +"I thought the Chinese were clever people," Sybil said; "if so, how can +they believe in so many gods?" + +"They have been trained to do so. They feel, I suppose, that they must +offer worship, and until a real knowledge of the true God can be planted +in their midst, they will remain slaves to idolatry. Many of the more +enlightened heathen, I believe, only regard their idols as +representations of the Deity they are feeling after, and not really as +the Deity Himself; although I fear many of the simpler sort, in +different degrees, regard their idols with great religious awe. Then, +many a Chinaman, again, will so often seem to have no religion at all!" + +"Is it very difficult to teach the Chinese, father?" + +"It is very difficult to find words, in their language, clearly to bring +home to them the great truths of the Bible; and Confucius having for +nearly twenty centuries held such a sway over their minds, they do not +care to listen to new teachers." + +"I am so glad the Bible is now translated into Chinese, and that you are +taking some copies out with you. But how old these people must be!" + +"The Chinese are a very ancient race, and had a literature 700 years +before Christ. They are very fond and proud of their country." + +"Do Taouists and Buddhists believe in, and read, the writings of +Confucius?" + +"To a great extent." + +"And are there many Christians in China now?" + +"The Church Missionary Society, at her six chief stations of Hong-Kong, +Foo-Chow, Ningpo, Hang-Chow, Shaou-hing, and Shanghai, now numbers 4,667 +native followers, and 1,702 communicants, of whom nine are native +clergymen and 174 native Christian teachers. In China altogether there +are 40,000 Christian adherents. But what are these, when we think that +this vast empire alone contains 400,000,000 people, one-third of the +human race?" + +"They will listen to you, father," Sybil said, looking up very brightly. +Sybil was a child who thought that there was nobody, except her own +mother, in the whole world to compare with her father. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration] + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +CHINESE CHILDHOOD. + + +"I FORGOT to ask you, father," Leonard said, about a week later--for +during that time he and his sister had been otherwise engaged, and had +therefore not come to hear anything more about the Chinese and their +strange doings--"I forgot to ask you if Celestial boys wore pig-tails +too. I have never, I believe, seen a picture of a Chinese boy." + +"Some have pig-tails, but some parents allow just a tuft of hair to grow +on a boy's head until he is eight or ten years old, and shave the rest. +Sometimes he wears the tuft longer; and I have also seen girls wearing +it on one or both sides of their heads." + +"Father, will you tell us something now about the children?" Sybil then +asked. + +"I know little babies of three days old often have their wrists tied +with red cotton cord, to which a charm is hung, which is, I suppose, to +bring it prosperity or drive away from it evil spirits. At a month old +its head is shaved for the first time, when, if its mother does not +shave it, a hair-dresser has to wear red in which to do it. A boy is +shaved before the ancestral tablet, but a girl before an image of the +goddess of children called 'Mother,' and thank-offerings are on this day +presented to the goddess." + +"What does the ancestral tablet mean?" + +"It consists of a piece of wood or stone, which is meant to represent +the dead. As I told you, one of the spirits of a dead man is supposed to +enter the tablet, and the more this is worshipped the happier the spirit +is supposed to be. On this tablet are names and inscriptions, which +sometimes represent several ancestors. After a certain time (I think the +fifth generation) the tablet is no longer worshipped, as by that time +the spirit is supposed to have passed into another body." + +"Thank you. I understand that now," Sybil said. "Does anything else +happen on the grand shaving day?" + +"Presents of painted ducks' eggs, cakes, and other things are sent to +the baby, and when it is four months old 'Mother' is thanked again, and +prayed to make the child grow fast, sleep well, and be good-tempered." +Sybil and Leonard laughed. "On this day the child also sits for the +first time in a chair, when his grandmother, his mother's mother, who +has to give him a great many presents, sends him some soft kind of +sugar-candy, which is put upon the chair, and when this has stuck the +baby is put upon it, and I suppose his clothes then stick to it also." + +"What a fashion to learn to sit in a chair!" Leonard said. "And what's +done on his first birthday?" + +"Another thank-offering is presented to 'Mother,' more presents come, +and the baby has to sit in front of a number of things, such as ink, +pens, scales, pencils, tools, books, fruit, gold, or anything the +parents like to arrange before him, and whatever he catches hold of +first will show them what his future character or occupation is likely +to be. + +[Illustration: YUEN-SHUH, A LITTLE STUDENT.] + +"But the worst part has now to come. As soon as the poor little fellow +can learn anything, he is taught to worship 'Mother' and other idols, +before which he has to bow down, and raise up his little hands, whilst +candles and incense are burnt in their honour. So it is no wonder that +as he grows older he learns his lesson thoroughly. At sixteen children +are supposed to leave childhood behind them, and there is a ceremony for +this." + +"Do Chinese girls learn lessons? or is it only the boys?" + +"In some parts of China there are, I believe, a few schools for young +ladies, and instruction is given to them by tutors at home; but although +two or three Chinese ladies have been celebrated for great literary +attainments, these are quite the exceptions, and there are only a very +few schools for any girls in China, except the mission schools. Those +for boys abound all over the country." + +"Did you ever go into a boy's school, father?" + +"Yes, into several, where I saw many a little intelligent-looking boy +working very hard at his lessons. One little boy, named Yuen-Shuh, told +me that he meant to get all the literary honours that he could. Chinese +boys are not allowed to talk at all in school-hours. Each boy has a desk +at which to sit, which is so arranged that he cannot speak to the boy +next to him. Little Yuen-Shuh had been to school since he was six years +old. + +"Another boy was saying a lesson when I went in, and therefore standing +with his back to his teacher. Boys always say their lessons like this, +and it is called 'backing the book.' The teacher, as they repeat their +lessons, puts down their marks. When learning their lessons they repeat +them aloud. There are higher schools into which older boys pass, and the +great aim of the Chinese is to take literary honours, as nothing else +can give them a position of high rank; but even a peasant taking these +honours would rank as a gentleman." + +"Will you take me to see a school in China?" Leonard then asked. + +[Illustration: A CHINESE SCHOOL.] + +His father, having promised to do so, went on to say to Leonard: +"Parents are very particular as to their choice of a schoolmaster, who +must be considered good, as well as able to teach; and to qualify +himself the master must, of course, know the doctrines of the ancient +sages. After all has been settled for a boy to go to school, the parents +always invite the schoolmaster to a dinner, given expressly for him. +Then a fortune-teller is asked to decide upon a 'lucky' day for the boy +to make his first appearance at school, when he takes the tutor a +present. No boy ever goes to school first on the anniversary of the day +on which Confucius died or was buried. On entering school, he turns to +the shrine of Confucius--an altar erected to his honour in every +school--and worships him, after which he salutes his teacher very +respectfully, hears what he has to do, and goes to his desk." + +"And are there many holidays at Chinese schools?" + +"At the new year and in the autumn there are always holidays, but +children also go home to keep all religious festivals, to celebrate the +birthdays of parents and grandparents, to worship their tablets, and at +the tombs of ancestors. Very often schoolmasters are men who have toiled +very hard at their books, and yet have not succeeded in taking a very +high degree, but sometimes having done so, they choose teaching for +their profession. Children are very much punished in China when they +break school-rules. Perhaps the punishment they fear most is to be +beaten with a broom, because they think that this may make them unlucky +for the rest of their lives." + +"And they can never have an alphabet to learn," Sybil said, "when they +first go to school, as there is not one." + +[Illustration: A VILLAGE SCHOOLMASTER.] + +"No; instead of letters and words, they have to learn, and master, +characters. In some schools children learn names first; in others they +have reading lessons, where all the sentences consist of three +characters. As soon as possible they are set to learn the classic on +'Filial Piety.'" + +"Now, father, will you please describe a Chinese house to us?" + +"Those of the richer classes are surrounded by a high wall, and composed +of a number of rooms, generally on one floor. In large cities some +houses have another storey; but the Chinese think it 'unlucky' to live +above ground." + +"The Chinese seem to think everything either lucky or unlucky," Sybil +said; "it does seem silly. I do not wonder that you always told me not +to say that word. I don't think I shall ever want to say it again now; +and I used to say it rather often, usen't I? But I did not mean to +interrupt you, so please go on now." + +"Some houses are very large, which they have to be, in order to +accommodate several branches of the same family, who often live together +in different parts of them. + +"There are generally three doors of entrance to a house, of which the +principal, in the centre, leads to the reception hall, into which +visitors are shown. I have seen the walls of rooms hung with white silk +or satin, on which sentences of good advice were written. All sorts of +beautiful lanterns hang from the sitting-room ceilings, sometimes by +silk cords. The furniture consists principally of chairs, tables, pretty +screens and cabinets, with many porcelain ornaments, and fans are very +numerous in a Chinese household. Most houses have very beautiful +gardens; even the poor try to have their houses surrounded by as much +ground as possible. Many houses also have verandahs, where the Chinaman +likes to smoke his evening pipe. Indeed, women, even ladies, smoke pipes +in China. I have a picture of a verandah scene in the south of China." + +"Are these people rich or poor?" Sybil asked. + +"Certainly not rich, but also not very poor." + +"You were saying the other day, father, that Chinese people smoke +something else besides tobacco?" Leonard then asked. + +"Opium." + +"What is opium?" + +"The juice of the poppy, which, after being made into a solid form, is +boiled down with water." + +"Why did you say that opium-smoking was so dreadful?" + +"You shall hear all about it, and then judge for yourself. The +opium-smoker, whilst engaged with his pipe, thinks of, and cares for, +nothing else in the whole world besides, and generally lies down to give +himself up to its more full enjoyment. Holding his pipe over the flame +of a small oil-lamp beside him, he lights the opium, and then gently +draws in the vapour which proceeds from it. Sometimes people smoke in +their own houses, and sometimes they resort to horrid places regularly +set apart for opium-smoking. In Hong-Kong, where we are going, there +will be many an opium-smoker who will buy this drug in quantities when +he cannot even afford to purchase clothing. + +[Illustration: FAMILY SCENE--AFTER DINNER] + +"If a man make a practice of smoking opium at stated times, even should +these times not be very frequent, he so acquires the habit of smoking, +that if, when the pipe be due it is not forthcoming, he is quite +unable to do his work, and wastes all his time thinking of and longing +for his pipe. The habit is sometimes acquired in less than a fortnight. +Opium may first be taken in a small quantity to cure toothache; the +small quantity leads to large quantities; the large quantities, or even +small ones taken regularly, lead at last to the man becoming an habitual +opium-smoker: and this means that the victim's health becomes injured, +and that he is unfit for any work. If he then leave off his opium, he +becomes ill, has dreadful pain, which sometimes lasts till he smokes +again; he has no appetite for food, cannot sleep at night, and looks +haggard and miserable. Sometimes if opium cannot be procured by him he +dies. + +"And these men make themselves slaves for life to this horrid drug, +knowing before they touch it what it will do for them. + +"Opium-smoking makes rich men poor, honest men thieves, and poor people +even sell their children to obtain the drug." + +"And can't they be cured, father?" Sybil asked. + +"Medical aid has been brought in to help them, but it generally fails; +and every now and then we hear of an opium-smoker becoming a Christian +and then overcoming the vice, but this is also very rare indeed. And +what does this teach us, children?" + +They thought. "Never to acquire bad habits, I suppose," said Sybil, "for +fear they should grow upon us." + +[Illustration: HABITUAL OPIUM-SMOKERS.] + +"Yes; and because they do grow upon us. Everything to which we very much +accustom ourselves grows into a habit; therefore it is so very important +for both Chinese and English, for both grown-up and little people, to +cultivate good habits. And more especially is this important in the case +of young people, because so many of our habits, which remain with us and +influence our whole after-life, are formed in our childish days." + +"And do people really sell their children?" + +"They do, indeed; and some children are so filial that they will even +sell themselves for the good of their parents. There is very little that +a Chinaman will not do for a parent. One of their superstitions is that +if a father or mother be ill, and the child should cut away some of its +own flesh to mix in the parent's medicine, a cure would be effected; and +children have been known to cut pieces, for this purpose, out of their +own arms." + +"What would happen," Sybil asked, "if a child were to do anything very +dreadful to a parent in China?" + +"If a son kill a parent, he is put to death, his house is torn down, his +nearest neighbours are punished, and his schoolmaster is put to death; +the magistrate of the district would also suffer, and the governor of +the province would go down in rank." + +"How unfair!" Leonard exclaimed, "when only one person did it." + +"Why does all that happen?" Sybil asked. + +"To show how great the man's sin is. The schoolmaster is punished +because it is thought that he did not bring up his pupil properly. Of +course, it is very unfair, but the Chinese are often very cruel in their +chastisments, and many criminals prefer death to some of the other +punishments. A great many also suffer capital punishment; sometimes as +many as ten thousand people in a year." + +"Then, when children do wrong, their parents and schoolmasters are +blamed?" + +"Very often their faults are attributed to their bringing-up." + +"Oh! oughtn't we to be careful, then, Leonard? Fancy when we do wrong +people blaming father or mother!" + +Leonard was then very anxious to hear more about Chinese punishments, so +his father told him an occurrence that he had once witnessed. + +"A very usual way of punishing small offences," he began, "is by beating +with a bamboo; and whenever a mandarin finds that any one, under his +jurisdiction, has transgressed, he can use the bamboo. Parents use it on +their children even when they are thirty years of age. The poor Chinese +culprits used to be subject to very horrible tortures, such as having +their fingers or ankles squeezed until they made confession; but I +believe a good many of the worst tortures have now been done away with. +One in common use is the canque, which is a collar made of heavy wood, +with a hole in the centre for the head to come through. It is fastened +round the neck, and is worn from one to three months, preventing its +prisoner from lying down day or night. The captive remains in the street +instead of in prison, and is dependent upon his friends to feed him." + +"What a shame!" Leonard said. "I'd like to be a magistrate in China, to +put that sort of cruelty down." + +[Illustration: A CHINESE COURT OF LAW.] + +[Illustration: CHINESE PUNISHMENT.] + +"But now I am coming to a trial that I witnessed myself. I remember, as +I went into the Provincial Criminal Court, one day, seeing the judge +sitting behind a large table, covered with a red cloth. Secretaries, +interpreters, and turnkeys stood at each end of the table, only the +judge having a right to sit down. Soon after I arrived the prisoner was +led in by a chain who immediately threw himself down on the ground +before the judge. The crime brought against him was robbing an official +of high rank. It was thought that he could not have committed the +robbery alone, and was asked how it was effected, and who were his +accomplices. He would not say. Then he was beaten; but still this +brought no answer. Both an arm and a leg were then put into a board, +which made it almost impossible for him either to walk, or sit, or +stand. His poor back must have ached terribly; and while one man dragged +him along by a chain, another held a whip to urge him forward. + +"And he had never committed the robbery after all, but gave himself up +in place of his father, a man named Wang-Yangsui, who was really the +culprit." + +Tears were in Sybil's eyes as she listened. + +[Illustration: POOR OLD WANG-YANGSUI IN THE CAGE.] + +"And he suffered all that?" she said. + +"Sons have been known to allow themselves to be transported to save +their parents, and then only to have felt that they did their duty." + +"And in this case was the real culprit ever found out?" + +"Yes; the father, moved with compassion for his boy, gave himself up." + +"And did they not let him off," Leonard asked, "as the son had suffered +so much for him?" + +"No; they put him into a cage in which were holes for his head and feet, +but in which he could neither sit down nor stand upright. Round the cage +was an inscription relating the nature of his crime." + +"How long was he left there?" + +"That I was not able to hear, but the day he was incarcerated I saw his +daughter feeding him with chop-sticks. These, which consist of two +sticks that people hold in the same hand wherewith to feed themselves, +instead of knives and forks, the Chinese always use when they eat. She +must have found it difficult to get to him, as she was carrying a +basket, as well as a baby on her back, for she had small feet, and women +with small feet cannot walk any distance, even without a load at all. It +is not the rule for lower class girls to have their feet made small, +though in some cases it is done. This woman had once been better off." + +"Why do Chinese ladies have small feet?" Leonard asked. + +"But, father," Sybil put in, "please tell us first what became of that +poor old man. I am so sorry he stole." + +"I heard that great poverty had tempted him to do so, but that he +afterwards bitterly repented of the crime which he had committed. How +long he remained in the cage I was never able to ascertain; but I really +think now that we must close our 'Peep-show' for to-day." + +"After we've heard about the small feet ladies, father. I think you have +just time for that." + +"The feet of Chinese women would be no smaller than, perhaps not as +small as, other women's feet, were they not compressed." + +"What does that mean?" + +"Made smaller by being pressed." + +"How painful it must be!" + +"So it is. When very young, a little girl's foot is tightly bandaged +round, the end of the bandage being first laid on the inside of the +foot, then carried round the toes, under the foot, and round the heel +till the toes are drawn over the sole, in which an indentation becomes +made and the instep swells out. After a time the foot is soaked in hot +water, when some of the toes will occasionally drop off. Every time the +bandage is taken away another is put on, and tied more tightly. For the +first year there is, as we can imagine, dreadful pain, but after two +years the foot will become dead and cease to ache. You can therefore +understand that it is very uncomfortable for Chinese ladies to walk, and +if they go any distance they are carried on the backs of their female +slaves." + +"Are all Chinese parents so silly as to have their little girls' feet +bandaged?" + +"A few are strong-minded enough to break through the rule, and all the +Tartar ladies have natural feet. Anti-foot-binding societies have now +been formed by the Chinese gentry in Canton and Amoy." + +"I wonder what made people first think of doing this?" Sybil said. + +"Some people think that it was first done to help husbands to keep their +wives at home; others say that it was to copy an Empress who had a +deformed foot which she bandaged; but whatever the reason may have +been, we cannot but wish very, very strongly, that the cruel custom +might be soon completely done away with!" + +"I shall like to see the ladies being carried on their slaves' backs," +Leonard said. "That will be fun!" + +"You will soon see it now," was his father's answer, "for we have been +six weeks at sea, and the captain says we may expect to be at Shanghai +in another ten days' time, so I think I had better not tell you any +more, and let you find out the rest for yourselves." + +"I think we might have just one more 'Peep-show,'" Sybil replied, "and +hear how we get our tea-leaves. I think we ought to know about that +before we arrive." + +The missionary smiled, and the next time his children wanted a +"Peep-show" very much, only a very little persuasion was required to +make him sit down between them and let them have it. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +THE MERCHANT SHOWMAN. + + +[Illustration] + +"WELL, so it is to be about tea to-day," Mr. Graham at once began. +"Supposing I do not know anything about it, though; what are we to do +then? I know tea comes from an evergreen plant, something like a myrtle, +but that isn't much information, is it? Wait a minute, though, +children," he then went on, "and you shall have a proper lesson to-day." +And as he spoke Mr. Graham disappeared, soon to return with a fellow +passenger, a tea merchant, who would be the kind "show-man" for to-day. + +"How far did you get?" he asked, as he sat amongst the group of father, +mother, and children, for Mrs. Graham had also come to "the show" +to-day. + +"That tea was an evergreen plant, something like the myrtle," Sybil +said, laughing; and all laughed with her. + +[Illustration: GATHERING TEA-LEAVES.] + +[Illustration: SIFTING TEA.] + +"Then I have it all to do, it seems. Well, the tea-plant yields a crop +after it has been planted three years, and there are three gatherings +during the year: one in the middle of April, the second at midsummer, +and the third in August and September. I suppose it will do if we begin +here. The plant requires very careful plucking, only one leaf being +allowed to be gathered at a time; and then a tree must never be plucked +too bare. Women and children, who are generally, though not always, the +tea gatherers, are obliged to wash their hands before they begin their +work, and have to understand that it is the medium-sized leaves which +they have to pick, leaving the larger ones to gather the dew. When the +baskets are full, into which the leaves have been dropped, they are +carried away hanging to a bamboo slung across the shoulders, which is a +very usual way of carrying things in China. The tea-plant is the most +important vegetable production of the 'Flowery Land.' But as there are, +you know, several kinds of tea, I think I had better tell you how that +called Congou, which, I suppose, you generally drink yourselves, is +prepared. The leaves are first spread out in the air to dry, after which +they are trodden by labourers, so that any moisture remaining in them, +after they have been exposed to the air or sun, may be pressed out; +after this they are again heaped together, and covered for the night +with cloths. In this state they remain all night, when a strange thing +happens to them, spontaneous heating changing the green leaves to black +or brown. They are now more fragrant and the taste has changed. + +"The next process is to twist and crumple the leaves, by rubbing them +between the palms of the hands. In this crumpled state they are again +put in the sun, or if the day be wet, or the sky threatening, they are +baked over a charcoal fire. + +"Leaves, arranged in a sieve, are placed in the middle of a +basket-frame, over a grate in which are hot embers of charcoal. After +some one has so stirred the leaves that they have all become heated +alike, they are ready to be sold to proprietors of tea-hongs in the +towns, when the proprietor has the leaves again put over the fire and +sifted. + +"After this, women and girls separate all the bad leaves and stems from +the good ones; sitting, in order to do so, with baskets of leaves before +them, and very carefully picking out with both their hands all the bad +leaves and stems that the sieve has not got rid of. The light and +useless leaves are then divided from those that are heavy and good, when +the good are put into boxes lined with paper." + +"What is scented Caper Tea?" Mr Graham asked. + +"Oh, father! I am so glad that there's something you have to ask," +Leonard said, "as you seemed to know _everything_." + +[Illustration: SORTING TEA.] + +"The leaves of scented Orange Pekoe," the merchant answered, "obtain +their fragrance by being mixed with the flowers of the Arabian +jessamine, and when scented enough, they are separated from the flowers +by sieves. Scented Caper Tea is made from some of the leaves of this +Orange Pekoe. + +[Illustration: PRESSING BAGS OF TEA.] + +[Illustration: TEA-TASTING.] + +"Those leaves which are prepared at Canton are black or brown, with a +slight tinge of yellow or green. The tea-leaves growing on an extensive +range of hills in the district of Hokshan are often forwarded to +Canton, where they are made into caper in the following manner. But I +wonder if Leonard knows what 'shan' means?" the merchant interrupted. He +did, for he had seen in his geography that "shan" meant mountain. "A +tea-hong," the merchant continued, "is furnished with many pans, into +which seventeen or eighteen handfuls of leaves are put. These are +moistened with water, and stirred up by the hand. As soon as they are +soft they are put into coarse bags, which, tightly fastened, look like +large balls. + +[Illustration: WEIGHING TEA.] + +"These bags are moved backwards and forwards on the floor by men holding +on to wooden poles, and standing upon them. In each bag the leaves take +the form of pellets, or capers. + +"The coarse leaves, gathered from finer ones, thus made into Caper, +after being well fired, are put into wooden troughs, and chopped into +several pieces, and it is these pieces which become the tea which we +call Caper." + +"Thank you very much," said Mr. Graham. "I did not know anything of +this." + +"Tea-merchants are most particular, before buying and selling tea, to +taste it and to test its quality. + +"And before it is shipped away it is also very carefully weighed, when I +myself, I know, for instance, sit by, watching the process, and taking +account of the result." + +"I suppose tea isn't ever sent about in wheel-barrows?" then said +Leonard, who liked very much indeed the idea of wheel-barrows with sails +up, such as he had heard about. + +[Illustration: GOING TO MARKET.] + +"I never saw it," was the merchant's reply; "but if you are interested +in wheel-barrows, you might like to hear about one that I once saw in +China. It was conveying not only goods, and the scales wherewith to +weigh them, to market, but the family also to whom the goods belonged. +The family party made a great impression upon me. The master of the +barrow was pushing it from behind, a donkey was pulling it in front, and +on the donkey rode a boy; a woman and two children were driven in the +wheel-barrow, besides the goods for market. I thought the man and donkey +must have a heavy load between them, but both seemed to work most +cheerfully and willingly; and a sail in the centre of the wheel-barrow, +gathering the full force of the wind, must have been a great help to +them. + +"The donkey was guided by no reins, only by the voice of the boy on his +back, who carried a stick, but had no occasion to use it, although every +now and then he just raised it in the air. Sometimes the boy ran beside +the donkey. Anyhow suited the willing little beast, who was as anxious +as his master to do his best. A dog completed the number of the party. + +"The man told me that he was truly fond of this dog, and gave him +'plenty chow-chow' (plenty to eat), and that he considered he owed all +his wealth to him, as he had once come to the house, and had since then +remained with the family. + +"A strange dog coming to, and remaining at, a house is looked upon by +the Chinese as bringing good luck to the family, but a strange cat +coming is a bad omen." + +The children laughed. + +"This man certainly treated his dog very well, as do some few of his +countrymen; but, alas! alas! so many poor little faithful dogs in China, +as in other countries, lead anything but happy lives!" + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +LITTLE CHU AND WOO-URH. + + +[Illustration] + +NO more story Peep-shows of what might be seen in China, no more +wondering what the Celestials would be like, for Sybil and Leonard had +now landed on Chinese soil, and were themselves at Shanghai, face to +face with its inhabitants. + +Shanghai seemed, and was, a very busy place, but not a town of very +great importance in itself, owing, really, its recent prosperity to +having opened its port to foreign commerce. The custom-house, through +which the Grahams' boxes had to be passed, struck the children as a +very strange and beautiful building, quite different from anything that +they had seen before; and there was a great noise of chattering going on +outside, which sounded most unintelligible. Coolies were carrying bales +of silk and tea to and fro; there were also, ready at hand, some of the +sedan-chairs that Sybil had longed to see, and everywhere "pig-tails," +or cues, as they were called, seemed to meet Leonard's gaze. + +But the ships! Watching them was what he enjoyed better than anything +else. The town of Shanghai is situated on the River Woosung, a tributary +of the Yangtse-kiang, just at that point where it joins the great river, +and about one hundred ships were anchored before this busy, commercial +city. Many families resident there have their junks and a little home on +the river. There were some very pretty buildings to be seen at Shanghai, +and at one of these our little party stayed--on a visit to another +missionary from the Church of England--for the three days that they +remained there. + +At some cities and towns, on the banks of rivers, floating hotels are to +be seen; and as people generally have to travel by water, and the +Chinese are not allowed to keep open their city-gates after nine o'clock +at night, these hotels prove very useful to those arriving too late to +enter the city. Lighted with lanterns, they look very pretty floating on +the water, and both Sybil and Leonard were very pleased to be taken over +a large floating hotel before they left Shanghai. Leonard was very +anxious to know how long this town had been open to foreign commerce, +and was told since the Opium War, which lasted from 1840 to 1842, when +the British, having occupied several Chinese cities, and having +captured Chinkiang in Hoopeh, were advancing to Nanking, and the Chinese +suing for peace, a treaty was concluded which opened the ports of Amoy, +Foochow, Shanghai, and Ningpo, in addition to Canton, to the British, +who were henceforward to appoint consuls to live in these towns. + +The Chinese are very polite to foreigners in Shanghai; and as the kind +missionary who bade the Grahams welcome to his home endeavoured, during +their short stay, to interest and show them sights, they enjoyed +themselves very much. Sybil and Leonard could not help noticing how very +many people they met in spectacles, but they were told that the Chinese +suffer very much from ophthalmia, and that when they wear spectacles, +some of which are very large, they often have sore eyes. + +"There is one thing I cannot understand the Chinese doing," Leonard said +one day to Sybil: "and that is, everybody that we have seen, as yet, +spoiling their tea by not taking any milk or sugar in it; and father +says all the Chinese drink tea like that, and call milk white blood, and +only use it in medicine." + +"Tea like that would not suit us," Sybil answered, "as we like plenty of +both milk and sugar; but I dare say they think we spoil our tea by +putting such things into it." + +A visit to some rice-fields, a little sight-seeing, a little more +watching of ships carrying rice and other products away, and then it was +time for the Grahams once more to take their seats on board. + +[Illustration: THE CUSTOM-HOUSE, SHANGHAI.] + +We can imagine how both children strained their eyes, as they steamed +farther and farther away from Shanghai, to see what that port looked +like in the distance, and how Sybil examined her map as they left the +province of Kiang-su, to see at what port, and in what province, they +would next touch. + +This was Ningpo, in Che-kiang, but they did not land here; neither did +they go on shore at their next halting-place, Foochow, in the province +of Fu-kien. It was at Amoy, in the same province, where their father had +a missionary friend, who had invited them to pay him a few days' or a +week's visit, as would suit them best, that they next purposed landing, +and this they did about four days after they left Shanghai. + +"Whoever thought," Sybil said one day on board, "that we should actually +be on the Yellow Sea ourselves? It seems almost too good to be true +now." + +"I never knew people like to stare more at anybody than they seem to +like to stare at us here," Leonard thought to himself when first at +Amoy. + +He and Sybil were then being very carefully observed by a group of +natives of that place, but Leonard had yet to become accustomed to being +stared at in China. + +"And, father," he said later, "I wonder why so many of them wear +turbans? I did not notice people doing this at Shanghai." + +[Illustration: A FLOATING HOTEL AT SHANGHAI.] + +Mr. Graham did not know the reason of this either; but he and Leonard +were later informed that the men of Amoy adopted the turban to hide the +tail when they were made to wear it by their conquerors, and that they +never gave it up. Leonard was also told that they were good soldiers, +which, he said, he thought they looked. One thing remarkable about the +people of Amoy was that the different families seemed to consist +almost entirely of boys. A great many of the inhabitants were very poor, +living crowded together in dirty houses very barely furnished. Mrs. +Graham had not to be long in China to discover that cleanliness is not a +Chinese virtue. Sybil bought some very pretty artificial flowers of some +of the inhabitants of Amoy, which they had themselves made. They +manufactured them principally, she heard, to be placed on graves. + +[Illustration: THE PORT OF SHANGHAI.] + +Like other Chinese, these people were very superstitious. Here and there +large blocks of granite were to be met with, which were regarded by them +with reverence, and looked upon as good divinities. On one the Grahams +saw inscriptions, which related some history of the place. + +Granite seemed to abound here, for the temples and monasteries were, for +the most part, erected on the heights between rocks of this description. + +Two days after reaching Amoy, Sybil was dreadfully distressed, and +shocked, to see a little girl named Chu, of eleven years old, put up for +sale by her own parents. At ten dollars (£1) only was she valued; and +for this paltry sum the parents were ready to sell her to any one who +would bid it for her. They were very poor, and could not afford to keep +her any longer. She had four sisters and only two brothers; the youngest +of all, the baby, was to be drowned by her father, later on in the day, +in a tub of water. They had never done anything like this before: this +man and woman had never killed a child, although they had had five +girls, and many of their neighbours had thought nothing of destroying +most of their daughters so soon as they were born; but now, as the man +was ill, and able to earn so little, they had resolved to rid themselves +of two of them that day. If the baby lived, the mother comforted herself +by saying, she must be sold later, or grow up in poverty and misery. + +Parents think it very necessary that their children should marry, and +sometimes sell, or give them away, to their friends, when they are quite +little, to be the future wives of the sons of their new owners. + +If sold, they will then fetch about two dollars for every year that they +have lived; so a child of five years old would fetch ten dollars; and +this little girl, put up for sale, was now eleven years old; therefore +she was being offered, poor little thing, below half price. And some +little girls of Amoy have been even offered for sale for a few pence! + +[Illustration: A FAMILY OF AMOY.] + +It seemed incomprehensible to Sybil, as it must to us, that a mother +could wish either to kill or to sell her little child, but neither the +one nor the other event is uncommon in some parts of China, where the +parent is poor; and even amongst the well-to-do classes little girls are +sometimes put to death, if the parents have more daughters than they +care to rear, not only at Amoy, but at other places in the +neighbourhood; and even Chinese ladies will sometimes have their poor +little daughters put to death. + +"Why do people not kill their boys too?" Sybil asked, when she heard all +about this. + +[Illustration: THE MISSIONARY'S TEACHER.] + +"Because when they grow up they can earn money that girls could not +earn; and not only can they help to support their parents when old, but +they can worship their ancestral tablets and keep up the family name." + +"I am sure a girl would do this too." + +"Her doing so would be considered of little use." + +[Illustration: A VIEW OF AMOY, WITH A BLOCK OF GRANITE IN THE +FOREGROUND.] + +It seemed that the very day before Mr. Graham arrived in Amoy, a widow +lady there had had her little baby girl destroyed, and then, in her +widow's dress, had sat down quietly to talk matters over with her +sister-in-law, who thought that she had acted very wisely. Killing a +daughter, in China, is hardly looked upon as being sinful. A widow's +mourning consists of all white and a band round the head, white being +Chinese deepest mourning. + +[Illustration: LADIES OF AMOY.] + +[Illustration: LITTLE CHU.] + +Whilst Mr. Graham stood by, a purchaser for little Chu stepped forward, +holding the ten dollars in his hand; but the missionary was before him, +and through a teacher, whom he had already been able to engage, offered +the father twice that sum not to sell the little girl at all, but to let +him have her for a servant. He hesitated, as though he would rather sell +his child right off to any Chinaman than trust her to a foreign +"barbarian." But the sum tempted him; and although he could not +understand how receiving it did not give Chu altogether to her +purchaser, he seemed to be contented, especially when the teacher +explained that she would not be a slave, but would be paid for what work +she did. Little Chu was well off to have stepped into so happy a +service, and the baby was rescued also. A certain sum was to be paid +weekly to the father, towards her support, until he recovered his +health, if he would only spare her; and both parents, who really fondly +loved their children, were very glad to spare their baby, fifth girl +though she was. Her name was Woo-Urh, which means fifth girl. + +It did not take long to have little Chu tidily dressed, with money that +her new master supplied, and her poor mother, who had some beads stowed +away, now looked them out and also put these on her. Chu was only eleven +years old, but poverty and care had given the little one an old +expression beyond her years. Chinese children of from ten to sixteen +years of age--about which time they are supposed to marry--have a fringe +cut over their foreheads, and Chu wore this fringe now. It has to grow +again before they marry. + +That evening Chu was sent round to Mr. Graham's brother missionary's +house, where, as Sybil's little maid, she was housed for the two or +three days longer that they would spend at Amoy; and though Chu had come +to live with foreigners, in the family of a "barbarian," as her father +thought, we can well imagine that she had never been so happy in her +life. Mr. Graham had told her parents that when they reached Hong-Kong +he should send her to the mission school. + +"And the father would have killed the baby himself!" said Sybil. "How +could he have done so?" + +"That is the marvel; but it is generally the fathers who commit the +deed; other people might be punished if they interfered." + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +LEONARD'S EXPLOIT IN FORMOSA. + + +ABOUT the middle of November, eleven weeks after Mr. Graham and his +family had left England, they arrived in the beautiful island of +Formosa, whither they had crossed over from Amoy. + +Three more persons were now added to the travelling party--the teacher, +a Chinese maid, and little Chu, the latter having already begun to show +herself really useful. + +[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO THE PORT OF TAKOW.] + +There is but little fun in travelling, and one does not see half there +is to be seen unless one climbs; and as the Grahams were all bent on +having fun and seeing as much as they could, on reaching the port of +Takow, in Formosa, they ascended a very high mountain, called Monkey +Mountain, because it is the home of very many monkeys, and they were +rewarded by having, from its height, a capital view of the entrance to +the port. To the front of the mountain were some European houses, +belonging to English merchants from Amoy. The port of Takow is a very +difficult one at which to anchor, and is closed for commerce during six +months of the year, whilst the wind is blowing in an adverse direction; +but when the wind and tide are favourable, barks pass between some rocks +at the entrance to the port. It is only at the north that the water is +deep enough for merchant-ships to pass by. Here Leonard saw men fishing +quite differently from what he had ever seen people fish before; and as +they walked in the water behind their nets, which they seemed to manage +very cleverly, he wished so much that he could have been there with +them. + +Takow is one of the four ports in Formosa which, through treaties, have +been thrown open to foreign trade, the others being those of Kelung, +Tamsui, and Taiwan-fu. + +[Illustration: THE EXTREME NORTH OF TAKOW.] + +Formosa, as its name implies, is a very lovely, picturesque island, and +the Spaniards, who first made it known to Europeans, named it "Isla +Formosa," which, in their language, means "beautiful island." Takow +seemed to abound in tropical vegetation, palm-trees being very +conspicuous. The gong, used everywhere in China, was much in use here +also; and as in other places men carried things by balancing them across +their shoulders, so also they did here. But as Mr. Graham's special +object in coming to this island was to visit Poahbi, the first centre of +the population of a tribe of aborigines, whom the Chinese have named +Pepohoans, or strangers of the plain, he moved on thither as quickly as +he could. The country through which they now passed was very beautiful, +palm-trees and bamboos overshadowing the way. + +[Illustration: FISHERMEN OF TAKOW.] + +Although it was the month of November, the weather was hot here, and +women, wearing white calico dresses, were hard at work in the fields. +Many of the women of Formosa had compressed feet, and most of the +children wore charms round their necks. + +The Pepohoans used to live in fertile plains, but when greedy and +grasping Chinese drove them from the rich and beautiful lands that were +then theirs, and had belonged to their ancestors before them, they took +shelter, and made themselves homes, in mountain fastnesses. + +Sybil and Leonard were charmed with the people of Poahbi, and thought +both their faces and manners very pretty. Although some of the people +stared at the foreigners, and laughed at them, many wished to make them +welcome in their midst. One woman gave them shelter for the night--a +very kind-hearted woman, with a dear little baby, and a very clean and +comfortable home. She was a Christian. + +At Poahbi Mr. Graham saw a little Christian chapel, which the natives +had not only built, but which they also kept up, themselves. Pepohoans +are good builders, and do also much work in the fields. They have a most +affectionate remembrance of the Dutch, who were once their masters, but +who were afterwards expelled from Formosa by a Chinese pirate. + +[Illustration: VIEW OF TAKOW, A TOWN IN FORMOSA.] + +The huts, or bamboo cottages, of the Pepohoans, raised on terraces three +or four feet high, looked very picturesque, and consisted first of a +framework of bamboo, through which crossbars of reeds were run; the +whole being thickly covered over with clay. The houses were afterwards +whitened with lime. A barrier of prickly stems extended round the huts, +throwing a shade over them, whilst these dwellings often had for roofing +a thatch of dried leaves. Most things in Formosa were made of bamboo, +such as tables, chairs, beds, pails, rice-measures, jars, hats, pipes, +chop-sticks, goblets, paper, and pens. Many of the Pepohoans' +habitations were built on three sides of a four-cornered spot, with a +yard in the centre, where the families sometimes passed their evenings +together. The natives assembled here, in numbers, at about nine o'clock, +where they made a fire when it was cold. Old and young people here often +formed a circle on the ground, sitting together with their arms crossed, +smoking, and talking. It was not unusual for dogs also to surround them. +These people were fond of singing, but played no musical instruments. +Sybil said, directly she saw them, that they were just the sort of +people she liked, but this was before she heard that they ate serpents +and rats. The women had a quantity of hair, which they wound round their +heads like crowns. None of them painted their faces. Some of the men +were very badly dressed. All Pepohoans seemed to have very beautiful +black eyes. In the different villages the inhabitants were different, +and where they had most contact with the Chinese they dressed better, +but were less affable. They seemed to be a very honest race. + +The Pepohoans are subject to the Chinese Government. Some of them, like +the Chinese, have been ruined by opium. The aborigines, consisting of +different tribes, talk different dialects. The people of one tribe, the +most savage of all, are very warlike, and think nothing of killing and +eating their Chinese neighbours when they get the chance to do so; +therefore, they are held in great terror. Sybil and Leonard would not +have liked to have visited this tribe, for they also hate Europeans. + +[Illustration: MOUNTAINEERS OF FORMOSA.] + +There was a grandness of beauty in this island of Formosa which could +not fail, more and more, to charm Mrs. Graham, and many a pretty sketch +did she here make, both for herself and for Sybil's letters. Sybil also +liked being here very much; "but if she had only seen," Leonard said, +what he and his father saw one day, when they went for a ramble +through the mountains, whilst Sybil was helping her mother to sketch by +keeping her company, and making clever little attempts at sketching +herself, "she would want to be off that very moment." + +There were caverns in Formosa, and they were walking along, exploring +some, Leonard some little way in front of Mr. Graham, the teacher, and a +native guide, who followed a few yards behind, when the English boy +suddenly caught sight of two huge, yellow serpents twined round the +branch of an overhanging tree. No one but Leonard was near enough to see +them, and as the first creature stretched its dreadful-looking head out, +hissing towards him, the brave, self-possessed little fellow, who held a +stick in his hand, struck his deadly foe with it with all his might, and +hit and aimed so well that he had the satisfaction, the next moment, of +seeing the serpent roll over and over down the rock. But then the +further one (which, although rather smaller than the other, measured +about six feet) wound, in a moment, its wriggling body round the branch +of the tree, stretching its head out almost within reach of Leonard, +when the boy-guide and Mr. Graham, the same instant, came upon the spot. +The boy, accustomed to such encounters, at once dealt the snake a blow, +that caused it to lose its balance, and thus all were able to pass on +their way in thankfulness and safety. + +When Sybil heard of the adventure she was very proud of her little +brother; but, as he had imagined when she heard that Formosa was +inhabited by serpents, she was glad also to think that it was settled +for them to leave that island for Swatow in two days' time. + +[Illustration: PEPOHOANS AND THEIR HUT.] + +That evening was spent very pleasantly comparing notes of adventure +with an English gentleman, who had been in Formosa for some time, and +now called upon Mr. Graham and his family, who were staying at the +consul's. He had seen and done a good deal, he said, but he spoke very +highly of Leonard's brave exploit. + +[Illustration: HUT OF ONE OF THE SAVAGE TRIBES.] + +In the course of his wanderings, he told them, he had visited the +village of Lalung, which is situated on the narrowest part of a large +river. During the rainy season the waters would here rise and cover a +vast bed, opening out a new passage across the land, and flowing away +towards the eastern plain. Great mountain heights surrounded the bed of +the river, and the violence of the torrent carried away very large +quantities of all sorts of rubbish, which the sea would collect, and +deposit, along the eastern coast. Mr. Hardy explained to Leonard how +this would account for the port of Thaï-ouan disappearing, and that of +Takow forming lower down. + +[Illustration: SERPENTS OF FORMOSA.] + +[Illustration: THE BED OF THE RIVER LALUNG DURING THE DRY SEASON.] + +"Formosa," he continued, "shows very plainly how the violence of waters +can quite transform the physical aspect of a country." + +Mr. Hardy then told them that he, with a guide, had once visited the bed +of the river of Lalung, during the dry season, as an explorer, when he +had taken off his boots and socks, so as to be able to walk wherever he +chose, and fathom the depth of the water in different parts. + +How Leonard wished he had been with him on this occasion, which seemed +to him a regular voyage of discovery! + +Two days later, as arranged, the Grahams made sail for Swatow. In +crossing the channel, which separates the island from the mainland, +Leonard, as usual, had some questions to ask. + +"What made the Chinese call Formosa Tai-wan?" + +"Because that word means the terraced harbour." + +"The east coast hasn't a harbour at all, has it?" + +"No; mountains are on the east, and to the west are flat and fertile +plains, and all the ports." + +"I suppose you know, Sybil, that there are some wild beasts in Formosa?" +Leonard went on. + +"Yes, I heard Mr. Hardy say so: leopards, tigers, and wolves." + +"I think it's my turn to ask a question now," Mrs. Graham said. "I +wonder if you and Sybil can tell me what grows principally in Formosa?" + +"Rice," Sybil began, "sugar, wheat, beans, tea, coffee, pepper." + +"Cotton, tobacco, silk, oranges, peaches, and plums," Leonard ended. "We +saw most of these things growing ourselves, so we ought to know." + +"Yes; and flax, indigo, camphor, and many fruits that you have not +mentioned." + +"The Chinese part of the island, I suppose, belongs to Fukien?" Sybil +said, "as it is painted the same colour on my map." + +"Yes." + +What religion had the aborigines? she then wanted to know. + +Mr. Graham answered this question by telling her that he believed they +had no priesthood at all. + +"What a pity it is," Sybil said, "that a number of missionaries could +not be sent out there. I do so like the Pepohoans!" + +"How long is it now since the Dutch were driven away?" Leonard asked. +"And how long were they in Formosa?" + +"About 1634 the Dutch took possession of the island, and built several +forts, but a Chinese pirate drove them out in 1662, and made himself +king of the western part. In 1683 his descendants submitted to the +authority of the Chinese Emperor, to whom they are now tributary. The +Chinese colonists, however, often rebel." + +"People have not known very long, have they, that the island of Formosa +is important?" + +"No; only since about 1852." + +"About how many inhabitants has Thaï-ouan, the capital?" Leonard asked. + +"I should think about 70,000, but it is now decreasing in population." + +"How much you know, father," Sybil said. "I wish I knew all you did!" + +"I am afraid that is not very much; but if you notice things that you +come across, and try to remember what you hear and what you read, you +will soon gain plenty of knowledge and useful information." + +[Illustration: SWATOW.] + +"I wonder what Swatow is like?" Leonard then said; but he had not long +to wait to find out, for a week after leaving Formosa they landed at +Swatow, the port of Chaou-Chou-foo, in the province of Kwang-tung, where +once again, for a fortnight, they were made very welcome: this time by +some friends of the missionary with whom they had stayed at Amoy. + +[Illustration: E-CHUNG.] + +Their home, for the present, was very prettily situated on a range of +low hills. Many pieces of granite were scattered about on the summit of +these hills, as they were about Amoy, which some people say have been +caused to appear through volcanic irruptions. On them also were Chinese +inscriptions. Leonard was delighted because the Chinese teacher cut his +name on one of these pieces of granite. The houses of Swatow were built +with a kind of mortar, made of China clay, and attached to some of them +were very pretty gardens. + +In front of the Consulate, which was a very large building, was a +flag-staff, with a flag flying. + +[Illustration: WOMAN OF SWATOW.] + +The ceilings of the house, in which the Grahams stayed, was painted with +flowers and birds, and some of the windows were also painted so as to +look like open fans. The Chinese are fond of decorating their rooms and +painting their ornaments, and the people of Swatow seemed to be better +painters than the Chinese; but they kept their pictures hidden, only a +very few of them producing any to show our friends. The people of Swatow +are also noted for fan-painting. + +Sybil thought some of the women of Swatow rather nice-looking, but, like +other ladies of the "Flowery Land," they had a wonderful way of dressing +their hair. One woman, Leonard declared, had hers done to represent a +large shell. A young lady, to whom Sybil was introduced, had the +thickest hair that she had ever seen. She and other Chinese girls wore +it hanging down their backs in twists. She was just fifteen, and Sybil +was told that she was going to be married in about a year's time, so she +would soon have to begin to let her fringe grow. She was the daughter of +a rich man, and had such pretty, dark eyes. + +Round a girl's and woman's head, or to fasten up her back hair, +ornaments are generally worn. E-Chung wore rather a large one round her +head. Sybil was allowed to spend an afternoon, and take some tea, with +this young lady, but they could not talk much together. E-Chung knew, +and spoke, a little of what is called pidgin, or business English, +because many business, or shop, people and those who mix most with the +English, speak this strange language to them; but Sybil could understand +hardly any of it. Before E-Chung heard that Sybil had a brother, she +said to her, "You one piecee chilo?" meaning to ask if she were the only +child. Then she was trying to describe somebody to Sybil whose +appearance did not please her, so she made an ugly grimace and said, +"That number one ugly man all-same so fashion," meaning "just like +this." Another time she meant to ask Sybil if she were not very rich, so +she said, "You can muchee money?" + +The hair down Sybil's back was such a contrast to her friend's, as was +also her rather pale complexion. E-Chung wished very much to enamel +Sybil's face, as she did her own, and could not understand why she +should so persistently refuse to have it done. + +Chinese ladies seldom do without their rouge, and often keep their +amahs, or maids, from three to four hours at a time doing their hair. + +[Illustration: SYBIL.] + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +THE BOAT POPULATION. + + +MR. GRAHAM had thought of visiting Chaou-chou, a very fertile city on +the river Han, but was advised not to do so, as foreigners are disliked +by its inhabitants; and he was therefore told that they might have cause +to regret going thither. It used not to be an uncommon thing for these +people to greet an Englishman with a shower of stones. People have tried +to establish an English consulate there, but have not succeeded, +although the city is open to foreign commerce; and Jui Lin, the late +viceroy of Canton, succeeded in making people in the neighbourhood much +more orderly. + +A very large bridge crosses the Han River at this place, a picture of +which the teacher had, and showed to the children. It is made of stone, +and composed of many arches, or rather square gateways, under which +ships pass to and fro. On the bridge, on each side of the causeway, are +houses and shops. + +[Illustration: THE BRIDGE OF CHAOU CHOU.] + +"I should not care much to live in them," said Leonard. + +Nor would the teacher, he replied; for they did not look, and were not +supposed to be, at all safe. + +[Illustration: ARCH OF THE BRIDGE OF CHAOU-CHOU.] + +Two pieces of wood are suspended between the arches, which the +inhabitants take up in the day-time and let down at night, to prevent, +as they say, evil spirits passing under their homes and playing them +tricks. + +It was a very happy fortnight that was spent at Swatow, and Sybil was +sorry to leave this port to go on to Hong-Kong. Somehow, although they +were not going to settle down now, and had still Macao and Canton to +visit, it seemed like bringing the end nearer--going much nearer to it, +when they went to Hong-Kong even for a few days, for there her parents +were to be left behind when she and Leonard returned to England. This +English colony, the little island of Hong-Kong, about eight miles in +length, is separated from the mainland by a very narrow strait, in the +midst of a number of small islands. + +[Illustration: CHINESE BOAT-CHILDREN.] + +The Bishop of Hong-Kong had kindly invited Mr. Graham and his family to +stay at his residence, St. Paul's College, during the few days that they +now remained at Hong-Kong, before continuing their tour and returning to +settle down, and the kind invitation had been gladly and gratefully +accepted. + +[Illustration: CHAIR-MEN OF HONG-KONG.] + +The missionary's party landed in a boat, or rather, in a floating house, +for the people to whom it belonged lived here, and it was their only +home. + +The children had heard that there were so many inhabitants in China +that for very many of them there was no house accommodation, and that +these lived in boats, and were called the boat population; and Leonard +was delighted to be travelling in one of these house-boats himself, and +seeing the homes of the boat people. Their very little children were +tied to doors, and other parts of the boat, by long ropes. Those who +were three or four years old had floats round their backs, so that if +they fell overboard they would not sink, and their parents could jump in +after them. Most care seemed to be taken of the boys. Instead of being +dedicated to "Mother," boat-children, soon after they are born, are +dedicated to Kow-wong, or Nine Kings, and for three days and nights +before they marry, which ceremony takes place in the middle of the +night, Taouist priests chant prayers to the Kow-wong. + +The boats in which live the Taouist priests, for the boat population, +are called Nam-Mo-Teng. These are anchored in certain parts, that the +priests may be sent for when needed. Their boats look partly like +temples, and have altars and idols, also incense burning within them. +The names of the priests who live there, and the rites they perform, are +written up in the boats. The boat people can have everything they +require without going on shore at all. There are even river barbers and +policemen, which latter are very necessary, considering that there are +so many pirates. + +[Illustration: A PORTRAIT-PAINTER OF HONG-KONG.] + +It seemed strange to Sybil and Leonard to think that boat-children never +went on shore, might never do so, and would even marry on board their +boat homes; but it did not seem at all strange to the little children +themselves, who played about on board quite as happily as did children +on shore. They looked strong, and seemed to be fond of one another. One +woman going along was very angry with one of her children, and for a +punishment threw him into the water, but he had a float on his back, +and was quickly brought back again. These women often carry their +children on their backs, but this is a most usual way of carrying +children in China, both amongst the land and water people. + +Sybil had already often had her wish fulfilled, of travelling in +sedan-chairs, and as that is the regular mode of travelling in +Hong-Kong, directly they arrived here coolies were to be seen, standing +and sitting, on the pier beside their chairs, waiting for a fare. Very +eager they seemed to be to secure either people or their baggage. And +Sybil liked being borne along in these chairs even better than she had +expected. + +The sedans were made of bamboo, covered with oil-cloth, and carried on +long poles. A great many sedan-chair-bearers have no fixed homes, living +day and night in the open air, and buying their food at stalls on the +road. They take care to keep their chairs in very good condition, ready +to hire out whenever they are needed. Leonard was charmed with his +bearers. They spoke such funny pigeon English to him, and made him +wonder why they would put "ee" to the end of so many of their words. +When Leonard once wished to speak to his father, who was on in front, +and succeeded in making his bearers understand this, one of them said +"My no can catchee." They admired the boy very much, and wanted to +persuade him to let them carry him one day to a "handsome +face-taking-man," but he could not understand at all, at first, that +they wanted him to let them carry him somewhere to have his portrait +taken. "My likee," one said, pointing to Leonard's face, "welly much." +The Chinese do not paint pictures very well, and sometimes, instead of a +brush, will use their fingers and nails. + +[Illustration: VIEW OF HONG-KONG.] + +The chair-men called Leonard "Captain" several times, which seemed to be +a common way of addressing strange "gentlemen." + +They then asked him how Mr. Turner was, but he shook his head to show +that he knew nobody of this name. They either did not understand or +believe him. + +"He hab got London-side," they explained. + +Thinking that if he tacked a double "e" on to all his words he would be +speaking the language they talked so much, he said "No-ee know-ee," and +shook his head again. I think it was the expression on his face, and the +shake of his head, which made them understand at last what he wished to +say to them. + +It seems that the natives of Hong-Kong, as well as other parts of China, +think that every Englishman must know every other Englishman; having, +indeed, such very small ideas of our important country, that they really +think our wealth consists in our possessing Hong-Kong. + +[Illustration: THE CLOCK TOWER, HONG-KONG.] + +The first view that the Grahams had of this little island was a chain of +mountains rising in the background to lofty peaks, and diminishing as +they approached the sea into small hills and steep rocks. Not so very +long ago, Sybil was told, Hong-Kong used to be a deserted island, though +it now contained flower-gardens, orchards, woods, large trees, beautiful +grass slopes, and very many buildings. The English town of Victoria was +built along the sea-coast. As Hong-Kong belongs to Great Britain, the +Government here was, of course, English; there were Christian temples, +as well as Buddhist, and many European edifices were conspicuous in the +Chinese streets. Then there were also large European club-houses, and, +best of all, the Cathedral. The sea-shore stretched round towards a +very beautiful port, which opened out to the west by a pass called +Lyce-moun, and to the east by the Lama Pass. + +"I do think, do you know, Leonard," Sybil said, as she wished her +brother "Good-night" the evening after they had arrived at Hong-Kong, +"that China is rather a 'Flowery Land' after all. I do not think I shall +ever forget Formosa, at all events." + +"We have seen pretty sights since we came to China," Leonard said, +agreeing with his sister. + +The next day Sybil and he were taken into the Queen's Road, which +crossed the town from west to east, to the right of which was a regular +labyrinth of streets, some leading into very fine roads. In one part of +Hong-Kong nothing but shops and houses of business were to be seen. One +of its principal ornaments was the tall clock-tower, which made even +high trees beside it look quite small. + +The most ancient houses of the colony are in a street that leads to the +clock-tower, and close by it is also the hotel of Hong-Kong. Into this +Sybil and Leonard were taken to have some tiffin, or lunch, whilst their +sedans and bearers waited for them not far off, under some trees. + +Leonard took a good view afterwards of a man in a turban whom they +passed, because, as he was so important a person as a policeman, he +thought Sybil might like to describe him in one of her letters, and she +might perhaps forget what he was like. + +Sybil had, as yet, only written one of her promised letters, but this +had been full of news, and had told of rides in sedan-chairs, little Chu +and Woo-urh, and all sorts of things; and before they moved on to +Macao, she had determined to write another letter, and tell of Leonard +saving himself from the serpent, and what they saw in Hong-Kong. This +seemed to be a very busy place. Steamers were always either coming or +going; and here, too, telegrams were constantly arriving. Besides +English merchants, Chinese, American, French, German, Hindoo merchants, +and others also traded with the little island, and shared what wealth +she had. Hong-Kong is very English-looking, compared with other places +in China, and the people are not only governed by English laws, but +their crimes are tried by English judges. But even at Canton, Shanghai, +and other ports where the English have settlements, they now claim, and +have a voice in trials for crime. It is only because Hong-Kong belongs +to the English that telegraph-wires are to be found there, as the +Chinese will not have them anywhere else, because they think that they +would offend the ghosts, or spirits, of the places through which they +would pass. For the same reason also the Chinese have hardly any +railroads. Even children could easily recognise here the introduction of +English ways and manners. + +Lily Keith was very fond of shopping, therefore in her next letter Sybil +not only gave an account of Leonard's bravery, of which she was really +more proud than Leonard himself, but also described a visit that she had +paid to some shops. + + "We went to some of the best of all the shops in + Hong-Kong to-day," she wrote, "and as we were + going into the door of one, the proprietor came to + meet us. Father said he was a merchant. He spoke + English, and was very grandly dressed in silk, and + wore worked shoes. His shopmen also wore very + handsome clothes, and served us standing behind + beautifully polished counters. In one part of the + shop were all kinds of silk materials, and some + stuff called grass-matting. We went down-stairs to + see furniture and beautiful porcelain. The + principal curiosities had come from Canton, so I + suppose when we get there we shall find still + better things; and in Canton people paint on that + pretty rice paper. Across the road were meat, + fish, vegetable, and puppy-dog shops. Yes, the + Chinese do eat dogs: in some shops in Hong-Kong we + have seen a number for sale; and they eat cats and + rats too. We could tell a shop in which clothes + were sold some little distance off, because an + imitation jacket, or something of that sort, was + hung up outside, as well as the long sign-boards, + which told what kind of shops they were. Leonard + says I am to tell you that a policeman was + outside. He always knows policemen now by turbans + that they wear, and they often hold a little cane + in their hands; and on the pathway a man sat, + wearing a hat just like one of those funny-looking + things, with a point, that we wore for fun + sometimes in the garden. There are no windows to + the shops. + +[Illustration: TEMPLE OF KWAN-YIN.] + + "Oh! but some of the Chinese do believe such + strange things. The other day our amah told + Leonard and me to chatter our teeth three times + and blow. We could not understand what she meant + us to do until she did it first. We had heard a + crow caw, so she thought if we did not do this + afterwards we should be very unlucky. The other + day a coolie fell down and broke a number of + things. He had not to replace any of them, but the + master had to buy all the things again because it + was fine weather. If it had been dirty and + slippery, the boy must have bought them. None of + us could understand the meaning of this till it + was explained to us. If it had been a slippery + day, the boy ought to have taken care, and it + would have been very careless of him to fall; but + if he did so in fine weather, some god must have + made him slip, they think, and therefore he could + not help it. The heathen Chinese have such a + number of gods and goddesses. + +[Illustration: A SHADOW-SHOW.] + + "The other day we passed the Temple of Kwan-Yin, + the goddess of mercy. The Hong-Kong people think + an immense deal of her, and her temple is in such + a pretty place, with many trees round it. She is a + Buddhist divinity. A number of beggars were + outside begging, and they nearly always get + something here. Very many Chinese beggars are + blind, and there are also lepers in China. + Barriers were put up to keep visitors, who were + not wanted, such as evil spirits, from going in. + People say that evil spirits only care to go + through a straight way, and never trouble to go + anywhere in a crooked direction. Over the doorway + were some characters, which father's teacher has + written out for me. They were, being read from + right to left, backwards: 'Teën How Kov Meaou,' + and signify, 'The Ancient Temple of the Queen of + Heaven.' Tien-How is the goddess of sailors, and + often called 'The Queen of Heaven.' To the right + was a doctor's shop, where prescriptions were sold + to the priests; and to the left an old priest was + selling little tapers which the worshippers were + to burn. We looked in for a few moments, and saw + people kneeling down and asking the goddess to + cure their sick friends. She was seated at the end + of the temple, behind an altar, on which were + bronze vases, candles, and lighted sticks of + incense. A gong was outside, and on the walls of + the temple were different representations of acts + of mercy that the goddess was supposed to have + performed. On the roof were dragons. The dragon is + the Chinese god of rain. + + "Leonard says I am to tell you that some of the + Celestials thought once that he was going to beat + them because he carried a walking-stick. Chinamen, + excepting policemen and mandarins, are only + allowed to carry them when they grow old. + + "We saw a very strange sort of show the other day, + called a shadow-show. A man, inside a kind of + Punch and Judy house, made, with the help of a + lantern, all sorts of figures, or rather, shadows, + appear on the top of the Punch and Judy. It looked + so strange, but Leonard said he thought the people + looking at it were stranger still, what with the + hats they wore and the funny way they did their + hair. He declared one woman had horns. I never saw + such pretty lanterns as the Chinese have. Father + says that on the fifteenth day of their first + month (which is not always the same, as their New + Year's Day, like our Easter, is a movable feast + regulated by the moon) there is a feast of + lanterns, when all people, both on land and on the + water, hang up most beautiful lamps, some being + made to look like animals, balls of fire, or even + like Kwan-Yin herself holding a child. + + "Is it not strange New Year's Day next year will + be on the twenty-ninth of January, and in 1882 on + February eighteenth? + + "I seem to have ever so much more to tell you, but + I am too tired now to write it. I am glad you + liked mother's pictures that I sent last time. I + could only write that one short letter in Formosa. + We are going on to Macao (it is pronounced Macow) + the day after to-morrow, then we stay at Canton, + and then come back here. It will be so dreadful + when that time comes, but I try not to think about + it. Dear mother does sometimes, I can see. We all + went to the Cathedral on Sunday. + + "I hope I shall soon have a long letter from you. + "Believe me, dear Lily, + "Always your affectionate friend, + "SYBIL GRAHAM. + + "_Hong-Kong, December, 1880._" + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +AT CANTON. + + +[Illustration] + +A PASSENGER-BOAT conveyed our little travellers, and their parents, in +three days, from Hong-Kong to Macao, a pretty little sea-side place at +the entrance of the Bocca Tigris, a little gulf, to the head of which is +the city of Canton. + +Macao was not as full now as it had been during the summer months, when +many people resort thither from Canton for change of air and to enjoy +the fresh sea-breezes. A beautiful walk, called the Grand Parade, +surrounds its picturesque bay. + +As Macao belongs to the Portuguese, a great many of the inhabitants +speak that language. + +Mr. and Mrs. Graham and their children stayed, whilst at Macao, at the +Grand Hotel, which was situated on the Parade, where was also a very +pretty jetty, on which Sybil and Leonard liked very much to walk. Here, +again, the houses were painted. In a pretty street close by the Grand +Parade, protected on both sides by walls, the Grahams were shown houses +whose windows used to have barriers of iron. These houses, they were +told, were a kind of prison, called Emigration Agencies, but where in +reality poor coolies were kept for sale. This traffic had, happily, now +been done away with. + +Some of the houses in Macao seemed to be painted all colours, and many +of the windows were bordered with red, the favourite colour. Most of the +houses could boast of large rooms. Not very much commerce seemed to be +carried on here. Leonard was one day taken to pay the European troops a +visit in their garrison. + +At four o'clock in the afternoon many people walked upon the Parade. +Most of the Christians here were Roman Catholics, which was natural, +considering that the place belonged to the Portuguese. Bells, calling +people to church, rang two or three times a day, and these, and the +bugle-call from the garrison, were the principal sounds heard. It was +interesting to visit Macao, because here, in its quiet prettiness, the +poet Camoens, when banished, spent some of his lonely years, and wrote a +great part of his epic poem "Lusiad;" and here also a French painter, +named Chinnery, had produced some of his pretty paintings and sketches. +Sybil was old enough to care about such things, and to find both +pleasure and interest in visiting any places once made memorable by the +footprints left there of either good or great men; and when she had +heard the poet's story, she was very sorry for him! + +[Illustration: MACAO.] + +Camoens, who was the epic poet of Portugal, was born in Lisbon in 1524. +An epic poet is one who writes narratives, or stories, which often +relate heroic deeds. When banished by royal authority to Santarem, +Camoens joined the expedition of John III. against Morocco, and lost his +right eye in an engagement with the Moors in the Straits of Gibraltar. +People in Lisbon, who would not admire his poetry, now thought nothing +of his bravery. Sad and disappointed, he went to India in 1553; but +being offended by what he saw the Portuguese authorities doing in India, +he wrote a satire about them, called "Follies in India," and made fun of +the Viceroy. For doing this, he was banished to Macao in 1556, where he +lived for six years, writing "The Lusiad." On being recalled, he was +shipwrecked, and lost everything that he had in the world but this epic +poem, which he held in one hand above the waves, while he swam to shore +with the other; and after suffering many misfortunes, he arrived in +Lisbon in 1569, possessed of nothing else. He dedicated his poem to the +young king Sebastian, who allowed him to stay at the court, and gave him +a pension. But when Sebastian died he had nothing at all, and a faithful +Indian servant begged for him in the streets. At last he died in the +hospital at Lisbon, in 1579. Sixteen years later Camoens was +appreciated, and people hunted for his grave, to erect a monument to his +memory, but had much difficulty even in finding it. + +The "Lusiad" celebrates the chief events in Portugal's history, and has +been called "a gallery of epic pictures, in which all the great +achievements of Portuguese heroism are represented." The poem has been +translated into English, French, Italian, Spanish, German, and Polish. + +After a short, but pleasant, stay at Macao, the Grahams went on to +Canton. + +"The last place but one," Sybil could not help whispering to Leonard on +board. "When we next arrive--" she went on, but tears starting into her +eyes seemed to drown the rest of the sentence. However, as some very +happy weeks had yet to be passed at Canton, neither she nor we must +anticipate. A long visit of two months was to be spent here at the +residence of a personal friend of Mr. Graham, the English consul of the +place. + +A servant was stationed on the steps leading round to the Consulate, or +Yamen, to await the arrival of Mr. and Mrs. Graham and their children. + +This house was situated on a height, and occupied the site of an ancient +palace. It consisted of a suite of buildings, surrounded on one side by +a pretty garden, and on the other by a park, in which deer grazed. Both +Sybil and Leonard thought the deer very pretty; and quite near to the +Yamen was a pagoda of nine storeys, which the Emperor Wong-Ti, who +reigned about the middle of the sixteenth century, is supposed first to +have constructed. + +"How little," Sybil and Leonard said to one another, "we ever thought, +when we examined our little ornamental pagodas at home, that we should +ever live quite near to a real one!" + +A story relating to this pagoda, being told to Leonard, interested him a +good deal. + +[Illustration: THE ENGLISH CONSULATE AT CANTON.] + +In 1859 some English sailors climbed up the old building, which was then +in so tottering a condition that it was a really perilous ascent, and +when they reached the top the Chinese were dreadfully angry, for two +reasons: first, because they looked upon it as sacrilege; and secondly, +because from the height the sailors could look down upon their houses, +and the Chinese dislike very much indeed to be overlooked, especially by +"barbarians." + +The consul and Leonard were soon very good friends, and the elder friend +very kindly did not weary of answering questions put to him by the +little boy. + +"Why is your house called a yamen?" + +"This word means the same as does consulate, the official residence of +the consul." + +"What are you here for?" + +The consul smiled. "To protect your interests and those, commercial and +otherwise, of every English citizen resident here." + +"Who is that Jui-Lin of whom you have a picture? and is he alive now?" + +"He died a few years ago, and was viceroy of Canton. He made so good a +governor that those provinces over which he ruled generally prospered +under his administration. It is in a great measure through his influence +that peaceable relations have, for some time, been established between +China and foreign countries. The Emperor Tau-Kwang, who came to the +throne in 1820, thought so well of him that he made him one of his +ministers. Later he became general of the Tartar garrison at Canton, and +soon after he was made viceroy. He established order in a very +troublesome district, where he made the clan villagers at last +acknowledge some authority, and so put the people and their property in +much greater security." + +[Illustration: JUI-LIN, LATE VICEROY OF CANTON.] + +Leonard said Canton was the place for him, for here he saw ships and +fishing to perfection. In Canton alone, the consul told him, it was +estimated that 300,000 persons had their homes on the water. One +Canton boat-woman, in whose passenger-boat they travelled, said that her +husband went on shore during the day to work, whilst she looked after +the passengers; but he seemed to be rather an exception, for most of the +boat population never went on shore at all, and as people on land go to +market to buy vegetables and other food, so everything in this line, +that they required, was brought, by boat, to them. Then, besides boats, +there were floating islands, on which people lived, and these consisted +of rafts of bamboos fastened together, with a thick bed of vegetable +soil covering the rafts. Here the owners set up houses, cultivated +rice-fields, and kept tame cattle and hogs. Swallows and pigeons here +built their nests in pretty surrounding gardens. Sails were put up on +the houses, and oars were often used to propel the islands along. Women +worked them frequently, with their babies fastened to their backs; and +little boys and girls would here also play together, having smaller +brothers and sisters thus attached to them. These floating islands, +Sybil and Leonard were told, were to be seen on almost all Chinese +lakes. Many floating houses were moored to one another. + +Sometimes the boat population made such a noise. They seemed a +good-natured set of people, but every now and then they quarrelled, and +this was done very noisily. Then if a storm came on, they would call out +with fear. Those people who lived in river streets, where their houses +were close against the river, often complained of the noise that they +heard during the night. The boat population are often looked down upon +by the Chinese who live on land, and may not go in for the literary +examinations. + +There were very many fishing villages about, and nothing made Leonard +happier than to be taken to one or another of them; he was so fond of +boats of all kinds. Fishing-boats in China had to obtain a license from +Government. Some of these sailed two and two abreast, at a distance, +from one another, of about three hundred feet, when a net was stretched +from ship to ship to enclose the fish. Names cut in the boats had +generally reference to good fortune. The name on one, which Leonard had +interpreted for him, was "Good Success." + +[Illustration: CHINESE BOAT-WOMAN.] + +[Illustration: A FISHING VILLAGE ON THE CANTON RIVER.] + +In fishing as well as in other villages men go about hawking things for +sale, and carrying them, by ship, from one village to another. In the +bows of fishing vessels are large pairs of shears, which can be either +raised or lowered. A large dip-net, fastened to the shears, is drawn up +after remaining some time in the water, when the fish it contains are +emptied into a little hole in the middle of the ship, like a large +cistern, into which fresh water flows. The fishermen anchor their boats, +and then lower their dip-nets into the water by means of these shears, +which are made of bamboo, and attached to wooden platforms, resting on +posts. Huts are sometimes erected near the dip-nets, so that the +fishermen can shelter themselves from the hot sun. A great deal of +fishing with birds called cormorants is also carried on in China, when +one man will, perhaps, take out a hundred birds to fish for him, +fastening something to their throats to prevent them from swallowing the +fish when caught. As they return with them, they are given a little +piece that they can swallow. + +After young fish are caught, they are fed with paste in the tanks, or +wells, into which they are put, and when they grow older little ponds +are made for them. + +Sybil and Leonard were taken very often on the Canton river in all kinds +of boats, both large and small. In the stern of very many was an altar, +concealed generally behind a sliding door, but which, night and morning, +was drawn aside to admit the altar to view, and display the images of +household gods that were upon it. + +Here were also small ancestral tablets, which were regularly worshipped, +and offerings of fruit and flowers were constantly offered to the +guardian god of the boat and the tablets when they were worshipped. +Tien-How, Queen of Heaven, also called Ma-chu, and other names, is much +worshipped by sailors, but each boat has its special guardian god. +Incense is burnt night and morning at the bow of the boat. The Grahams +very often travelled in a small ship called a sampan, which had a mat +roofing over the centre, and was driven forward, very frequently by +women, with two oars and a scull. + +[Illustration: CHINESE FISHING.] + +"I have seen just the sort of thing for you to sketch, mother," Sybil +said one day. Like her mother, she greatly admired what was beautiful, +and now, with her fellow-excursionists, the consul, her father, and +brother, returned home, from a ramble, very tired; "a dear little +pagoda, seven storeys high, very near to the banks of the river, with +mountains at the back and trees near to it, and a little village in the +distance; and on the opposite side of the river we saw two men and a +boy: the boy seemed to have a kite, but we thought it belonged to one of +the men, and he was just carrying it for him." + +Mrs. Graham sometimes did not feel equal to long expeditions, of which +her children never grew tired, so then she would remain at home, or walk +through the pretty gardens and park. + +The Canton, Chu-kiang, or Pearl River, has a great many names and +branches. The great western branch is called Kan-kiang, the northern +branch Pe-kiang, or Pearl River, and the eastern one Tong-kiang. On the +western branch the children found themselves surrounded by lovely +mountain scenery. From Canton to Whampoa it was called the Pearl River; +from Whampoa to Bocca Tigris, or Tiger's Mouth, Foo-mon; and beyond +Shek-moon towards Canton, the Covetous River. The passage to Macao was +the Wild Goose River. It was some time before Sybil and Leonard could +understand anything at all about these divisions. + +One day, on the Pearl River, they came to a very pretty spot, where the +water was almost entirely land-locked by high ranges of hills, and here +they asked to be allowed to remain stationary, for a little while, to +look about them. + +Another day they went very far indeed with their father and mother, +crossing the Fatchan River, where Leonard heard, with interest, that +Commodore Keppel engaged in a memorable battle in 1857. The river +divides the town of Fatchan into two equal parts. Then again they went +so far that they could not even think of returning home the same day, +and stayed the night on the road to a village called Wong-tong, which +was very countrified and pretty. + +[Illustration: PAGODA ON THE BANKS OF THE CANTON RIVER.] + +And once more they went--father, mother, and all--to a place quite +different from anything that they had yet seen, which was the village of +Polo-Hang. Here they found themselves in the midst of vast plains, on +the outskirts of which were to be seen lovely-looking hills of limestone +and rows of wonderfully-shaped mountains. Standing on one of these +mountains, they had a capital view of the Temple of Polo-Hang and its +surroundings, consisting of bare fields traversed by canals; and, at the +foot of the mountains of thickets of bamboo, whose light, feathery +branches swayed gently to and fro. Bamboo was very largely cultivated +here, and Sybil thought it such a fairy-like growth. Must not this scene +have been very lovely? Sybil was so glad that her mother had come to +see it. Then other hills appeared, covered with trees, and dotted here +and there with temples. + +"Where _did_ they all come from?" Leonard asked. + +Mr. Graham was looking very serious. This was a scene calculated to +leave a deep impression upon the beholders. + +[Illustration: ON THE CANTON RIVER] + +"From the hand of God," he said very quietly. + +[Illustration: VILLAGE OF POLO-HANG IN CANTON.] + +A week later, Sybil wrote again to her friend. + + + "_Canton, January, 1881._ + + "MY DEAREST LILY,--We saw such a strange sight + yesterday; and we could not help liking to see it, + although, of course, it was very dreadful. We went + inside a Buddhist temple at Canton. These + temples are often called joss-houses; this one was + the Temple of Five Hundred Gods. Fancy five + hundred gods! and these idols were all there, + arranged in different lines. They all seemed to + look different, and some were dreadfully ugly. I + saw beards on a few of their faces. In the part of + the temple where, in a church, our altar would be, + there was a terrible-looking thing: I suppose a + very special god. + + "We saw one of the priests. He had his beads in + one hand, and a fan in the other. Some of the + priests are men who have committed great crimes, + and have escaped to a monastery and had their + heads shaved, so as not to be caught and punished. + + "Some of the idols were as large as if they were + alive, and they had their arms in all sorts of + different positions. Some held beads, and a few + wore crowns; I think they were disciples of + Buddha. The buildings of the temple, and the + houses of the priests, were surrounded by lakes + and gardens. + + "We have been able to get you a picture of part of + the inside of the temple, so I send it to you; but + Leonard says that he thinks as you'll have the + picture (and he considers it a very good one) that + you ought to know that this temple is said to have + been founded about 520 years A.D., and to have + been rebuilt in 1755. Fancy people wasting prayers + before these images! Isn't it a pity that they + don't know better? There are more than 120 + temples, or joss-houses, in Canton. + +[Illustration: THE TEMPLE OF THE FIVE HUNDRED GODS, CANTON.] + + "The Chinese never eat with knives and forks, but + with chop-sticks. These are generally small square + pieces of bamboo, as large as a penholder, which + they hold between the thumb and first finger of + the right hand. I can't eat with them at all, + nor can mother; and the other day, when she went + out to lunch with some Chinese ladies, they sent + for a knife and fork for her. + + "Chinese ladies in Canton never seem to be with + their husbands in public, and they never walk in + the streets with them. Some of them think us such + barbarous people because we are so different from + what they are. + + "The Chinese have such a funny way of paying + formal visits, that I think I must tell you about + it. They often go in sedan-chairs. Officers of the + highest rank may have eight bearers, people of + less rank have four, and ordinary people two. The + state sedan-chair of an official is covered with + green cloth, and the fringe on the roof and + window-curtains has to be green too. So much seems + to go by rank in China. For the first three ranks, + the tips of poles may be of brass, in the form of + a dragon's head; the fourth and fifth rank would + have a lion's head. On the top of these chairs is + a ball of tin. Leonard and I can tell the chairs + very well now. Private gentlemen have blue cloth, + and the ends of their poles are tipped with plain + brass. + +[Illustration: AN OFFICIAL'S PALANQUIN.] + + "Father says when an official calls upon another + official in Peking, his servant sends in his + visiting card. The official who is being called + upon then sends out to know how his visitor is + dressed, and if he hears that it is in full + costume, he dresses himself in the same way, and + then goes to the entrance of the house, and asks + his visitor to get out of his carriage or chair, + and come in. As they pass through a door of the + gate, the gentleman, to whom the house belongs + asks the visitor to go first, but he always says + 'No' until he has been asked three times, and + then he walks first to the reception-hall, when + the two stop again, and ask one another to go + first. When they have come into the hall, father + says, they kneel down, and knock their heads on + the ground six times. This is performing the + kow-tow. When they get up from this performance, + the host arranges a chair for the other, and asks + him to sit down, but he must not do this even till + he has bowed again. I am sure I should forget when + I had to make all these bows, and should be sure + to do them at the wrong times. + + "After they have had a little talk, a servant is + told to make some tea. I suppose the host would + then say 'Yam-cha' to the other, for this means + 'Drink tea.' Before either gentleman drinks, both + bow again, and soon afterwards the visitor gets + up, and says, 'I want to take my leave.' They walk + together to the grand entrance, but at every + door-way the visitor has to bow, and ask his + friend not to come any farther, although of course + he must go, or it would not be polite. And then he + stands at the entrance door till the carriage has + driven off. The Chinese do bow so often, and + little children have to do it too. + + "The consul told Leonard that when school-boys go + to see their masters, they have to arrange the + chair-cushions for their masters and themselves. + The boy has to stand outside the visitor's hall + till his master comes, and when he has been asked + to go in, he gives him for a present a tael of + silver, about 2s. 8d., which he holds up with both + his hands. Then he looks towards the north, + kneels, and knocks his head twice upon the ground, + when the master bows. The boy asks how his + teacher's parents are, who also asks after the + boy's. He then invites his little guest to sit + down; but every time the boy is asked a question + by his teacher he has to stand up to answer it. + When he leaves, he goes to the entrance door by + himself. At school, the boys have to make a bow to + the schoolmaster whenever they go in and out of + the room. + + "You asked me in your letter if people have very + many servants in China. Some have a very great + number. Ordinary Chinese gentlemen might have a + porter, two or three footmen, coolies for + house-work, sedan-chair bearers, and a cook. Women + servants are often bought by their masters. A rich + man will have sometimes twenty or thirty slaves. + People called 'go-betweens' generally buy them for + the masters. We have very few servants of our own + now, as we are on a visit. Mother's maid shows + dear little Chu what to do. Female slaves attend + upon the ladies and children, and we have often + seen them carrying their mistresses with small + feet. It does look so funny. In good families, + father says, they are very well treated, but some + maid-of-all-work slaves often run away because + they are so unhappy. + + "Children are sometimes stolen to be slaves. + Great-grandsons of slaves can buy their freedom. I + am so glad I have my little Chu, because she + cannot be bought or sold now: father made that + agreement. I should not know nearly so much about + the servants and slaves if I had not wanted to + know what might have become of little Chu if we + had not had her. Sometimes servants stand in the + streets to be hired. + + "In a suburb of Canton, in a street called the + Taiping Kai, we saw one morning a number of + bricklayers, journeymen, and carpenters, waiting + to be hired. The carpenters stand in a line on one + side, and bricklayers on the other. Father said + they had been there since five o'clock. + + "Another day we saw men carrying baskets, in which + they were collecting every bit of paper they could + find about the streets, which had been written + upon. The Chinese have such respect for every + little piece of paper, on which have been any + Chinese characters, that they will not allow any + parcels even to be wrapped up in them. When all + these scraps have been collected, they are burnt + in a furnace, and the ashes are put into baskets, + carried in procession, and emptied into a stream. + Slips of paper are pasted on walls, telling people + to reverence lettered paper. Chinese characters + are called 'eyes of the sage;' and some people + think that if they are irreverent to the paper, + they are so to the sages who invented them, and + they will perhaps, for a punishment, be born blind + in the next world. + + "Men become famous in China when they write very + beautifully. They write with a brush and Indian + ink. Father's teacher says there are three styles + of writing Chinese characters, and that the + literature of China is the first in Asia. A + Chinaman writes from right to left, and all the + writing consists of signs or characters. I cannot + think how Chinese people understand either their + writing or their conversation. One word will mean + a number of things, and you know which word they + mean by the sound of the voice and the stress on + the word. Leonard asked the teacher one day what + soldier was in Chinese, and he said, 'ping;' but + he also told him that 'ping' meant ice, pancake, + and other words too. 'Fu' is father, and 'Mu' + mother. They think we have no written language. + + "Canton is entered by twelve outer, and four + inner, gates. The name means 'City of Perfection.' + Leonard and I are now going for a walk, with + father, to the Street of Apothecaries, and + to-morrow we are to see a bridal procession. + +[Illustration: WAITING TO BE HIRED.] + + "There are such a number of narrow streets in + Canton, and religious worship is carried on in the + open streets, in front of shrines; and before the + shops lighted sticks, called 'joss-sticks,' are + put at dawn and sunset. The natives live in the + narrow streets. Those in the European settlement, + where we are, are larger. + + "The ports, which are open to foreign commerce, + have European parts where the European inhabitants + live. + + "Always your affectionate + "SYBIL GRAHAM." + +[Illustration: A CHINESE WRITER ] + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +A BRIDE AND BRIDEGROOM. + + +[Illustration] + +THE Street of Apothecaries was no exception to the general rule that +Sybil had laid down. It also was very narrow, and, like many other +streets in Canton, was so covered over at the top that in walking +through it the sun did not burn too fiercely, neither did the rain fall +upon the passers-by. + +The shops opened right upon the street, which was very gay indeed with +sign-boards. Just in front of the shops were granite counters, on which +goods were shown to purchasers. + +Many of the sign-boards rested on granite pedestals. On one side of each +shop was a little altar, dedicated to the god of wealth, or the god +supposed to preside over the special trade carried on within. Every +heathen Chinese merchant and shopkeeper has some little spot set apart +for this worship, although all the shops have not an altar, but many +only a piece of red paper pasted upon a wall, on which the characters +meaning "god of wealth" are written, and before which incense and +candles are burnt. Every day, as soon as the shop is opened, worship is +paid to this divinity. + +[Illustration: THE STREET OF APOTHECARIES, CANTON.] + +The counters and shelves inside these hongs were very handsome. The +accountant's desk was at the end of the hong, and here again the red +colour was not absent, for the scales and weights of the shop were +covered with cloth of that hue. + +Beggars (some miserably and scantily dressed) are very numerous in +China, people making quite a profession of begging, when they visit +shops in companies, and there make a great disturbance until they +receive what they demand. These beggars are often governed by a +head-man, who was really first appointed to rule over them by the +mandarin, to save himself trouble. A head-man will sometimes make an +agreement with a hong proprietor, that if he will pay a sum of money +down beggars shall not molest him; and when he agrees to this, a notice +on red paper, stating the arrangement made, is hung up in the shop, +after which any native beggar applying for aid can be shown this, turned +out of the hong, and upon refusing to go, he can be beaten. But unless +such an arrangement has been made, beggars may neither be beaten nor +turned out of a shop, whatever annoyance they may offer, unless they +steal, or break some other law. Therefore it is that poor shop-keepers +feel themselves bound to pay money in order to avoid such annoyance. +When the head-man is paid a sum of money, he is supposed to divide it +amongst his band. + +"I never heard such a shame!" Leonard exclaimed, when he saw one of +these beggars very troublesome in the Street of Apothecaries, and heard +the law with regard to them. "I wish I were a mandarin. I'd very soon +put a stop to poor shop-keepers being so persecuted." + +[Illustration: A BEGGAR.] + +[Illustration: BRIDESMAIDS] + +That evening both Sybil and Leonard, feeling tired, went very early to +bed, as they wanted to be up in very good time in the morning, so as to +see the whole of the bridal procession, for the bridegroom sends very +early indeed in the morning for his bride. The bridal-chair which he +sends for her is often painted red. The one which the Grahams saw was of +this colour, and over the door were also strips of red paper. Before the +bride took her seat in the sedan, which was brought into the +reception-room of her home for her, she having eaten nothing that +morning, and having kow-towed very often to her parents, they covered +her head and face with a thick veil, so that she could not be seen. The +floor, from her room to the sedan, was covered with red carpet. When in +the sedan, four bread-cakes were tossed into the air by one of the +bridesmaids as an omen of good fortune. In front of the procession two +men carried large lighted lanterns, having the family name of the +bridegroom, cut in red paper, and pasted on them. Then came two men +bearing the family name of the bride, who were, however, only to go part +of the way. Other men followed, some carrying a large red umbrella, +others torches, and again some playing a band of music. Near the +bridal-chair brothers or friends of the bride walked. Half-way between +the two houses the friends of the bridegroom met the bride, and as they +approached the procession stopped. + +The children were very much interested in watching what happened next. +The bride's friends brought out a large red card, on which was written +the bride's family name, and the other party produced a similar one, +bearing that of the bridegroom. These were exchanged with bows. The two +men at the head of the procession then walked, with their lanterns, +between the sedan-chair and the lantern-bearers, who carried the bride's +family name, and returned to their places in front, when the bride's +party turned round and went back to her father's house, carrying home +her family name, she being supposed to have now taken that of her +husband. Even her brothers went back also, and then the band played a +very lively air whilst the rest of the procession took her on. + +Fireworks were let off along the road, and a great many outside the +bridegroom's door when the bride arrived. Her bridesmaids, who have to +keep with her throughout the day, accompanied the procession. + +As the sedan-chair was taken into the reception-room, the torch-bearers +and musicians stayed near the door, and where it was put down the floor +was again covered with red carpet. The bridegroom then came and knocked +at the bridal door, but a married woman and a little boy, holding a +mirror, asked the bride to get out. Her bridesmaids helped her to +alight. The mirror was supposed to ward off evil influences. + +[Illustration: BRIDE AND BRIDEGROOM.] + +Sometimes, much for the same purpose, a bride is carried over a charcoal +fire on a servant's back, but this was not done on this occasion. All +this time the bride's face was hidden by her veil. She was then taken +into a room, where the bridegroom was waiting for her, and here they sat +down together for a few minutes, without speaking a word. Sometimes the +bridegroom sits on a high stool, while the bride throws herself down +before him, to show that she considers man superior to woman. + +He then went into the reception-room, where he waited for his bride to +come to worship his ancestral tablets with him. A table was put in front +of the room, on which were two lighted candles and lighted incense. Two +goblets, chop-sticks, white sugar-cocks, and other things were on the +table, when the bride and bridegroom both knelt four times, bowing their +heads towards the earth. This was called "worshipping heaven and earth." +The ancestral tablets were on tables at the back, on which were also +lighted candles and incense. Turning round towards the tablets, they +worshipped them eight times, and then facing one another, they knelt +four times. + +Wedding wine was now drunk, and the bride and bridegroom ate a small +piece from the same sugar-cock, which was to make them agree. + +The thick veil was now taken off the bride, but her face was still +partly hidden by strings of pearl hanging from a bridal coronet. + +It often happens that the bridegroom now sees his bride for the first +time, the two fathers having perhaps planned the marriage, asked a +fortune-teller's advice, sent go-betweens to make all the necessary +arrangements, chosen a lucky day, without the bride or bridegroom having +a voice in the matter. This was the case with the young couple, a great +part of whose wedding ceremony Sybil and Leonard had witnessed. Both +Chinese boys and girls marry sometimes when they are sixteen years of +age; these were very little older. + +Many other ceremonies had to take place, such as kneeling very often +before the bridegroom's parents, when at last it was time for the +bride's heavy outer garments to be taken off, together with her +head-dress, so that her hair could be well arranged; but she was not +allowed to eat anything at all at the wedding dinner. Indeed, on her +wedding-day, she is hardly expected to touch food at all. + +Many people came in to see her, and on this day she must be quite +natural, and wear no rouge at all. She has to stand up quietly to be +looked at, blessed, and have remarks made upon her appearance. Presents +are sent to the bridegroom's family. For three days the bride's parents +send her food, as she may not, during that time, eat what her husband +provides. In some districts of the province of Canton the bride leaves +her husband, and goes home again for a time after she is married, but +after marriage she is generally considered to belong almost entirely to +her husband's family, in a wing of whose house she lives with him, and +to whose parents she is supposed to help him to be filial. On many other +days the ancestral tablets have to be worshipped by the bride and +bridegroom, and amongst other gods and goddesses, those of the kitchen +have adoration paid to them. + +[Illustration: AT A CHINESE FARM.] + + + "_Canton, February, 1881._ + + "MY DEAREST LILY.--Father took us to a lovely farm + the other day" (Sybil wrote in another letter), + "where we saw a little donkey, who was so well + cared for that he seemed like one of the family. + Leonard and I fed him for some time. We both + thought that the farm-house was something like a + Swiss cottage. Father said the walls were made of + clay, and on these walls were scrolls, which were + supposed to have power to keep the fox and wild + cat away. + + "There were a few bullocks and cows here, but not + many; their stalls were quite near to the house. + We liked the village, to which we went, very much, + and it was surrounded by high trees. Father says + that the stables of the Chinese are like + cart-sheds, but each stable has an altar in honour + of the ruler of horses. In this city there is a + large temple to this god. + + "We saw a number of bean, pea, rice, and + cotton-fields, and had some sugar-cane given us to + eat. Sugar-cane is grown in Canton, and we had + some bean-curds to drink. We liked them very much. + Mother says she was told that they were made in + Canton overnight, and generally sold very early in + the morning. The beans are ground to flour, which + is strained, and then boiled slowly for an hour. I + wonder if you would like it? + + "The Chinese are so fond of sugar-cane, and it + grew in China before it grew anywhere else. Ever + so many fruits and vegetables grow also in China, + but there seem to be more rice-fields than any + other. I will tell you a few of the vegetables: + sweet potatoes, yams, tomatoes, cabbages, + lettuces, turnips, and carrots; and some fruits + are apricots, custard-apples, rose-apples, dates, + oranges, pomegranates, melons, pumpkins, and ever + so many others. Canton is in the tropics, but it + is not hot here in the winter. There are such + pretty water-lilies here, not only white, but also + red and red-and-white. The Chinese look upon this + lily as a sacred plant. Some shop-keepers use the + leaves, in which to wrap up things, instead of + paper. + + "Chinese people do very funny things. Because they + think that their birds sometimes like change of + air, they carry their cages out of doors with them + for a walk. But I do so wish that they did not eat + dogs! You see them being sold in the shops, and in + one district of Canton a fair is held, where they + are regularly sold for food. Many people like + black dogs best. At the beginning of summer nearly + everybody eats dog's flesh, when a ceremony takes + place. If people eat it, they think that it will + keep them from being ill in the summer. I am glad, + for that reason, that I shall not be here in June, + as the dogs are cruelly beaten the day before they + are killed. Fancy, poor little things! I suppose + that is to bring luck too! And yet the Cantonese + think that they displease the gods when they eat + dog's flesh, and we have seen it written on + Buddhist temples that people ought not to eat + 'their faithful guardians.' + + "The Cantonese must not go into a temple to + worship till they have been three whole days + without eating any dog. One of the 'boys' here--he + is a footman; but in China all these sort of + people are called 'boys'--eats rats. He says he is + getting bald, and if he eats them his hair will + grow again. Horses are sometimes eaten too; and + worms that spoil the rice-fields, father told me, + are sent to the markets and sold to be eaten. + Isn't that nasty? And a kind of swallow's nest is + eaten even by ladies. It is lined with feathers, + which are first removed; then it is scraped, + washed, and pulled to pieces, when it looks white. + People say it is something like blancmange. I + should not like to eat it. Does it not seem + greedy, when people have so much to eat, to take + poor little birds'-nests which have been made with + such pains by their owners? + + "There is a bird in China that has such a long + tail: it is called the Golden Pheasant. The + feathers of the cock bird are most beautiful. His + throat and breast are like purple velvet, and his + back looks like gold. The upper part of his very + long tail is scarlet, and the rest yellow. When + this pheasant lifts his head and neck-feathers he + shows such a tuft! + + "There are a good many deer in China, which are + also supposed to bring good fortune. Some Chinese + are very cruel to animals. We have seen them + carrying pigs, ducks, and geese fastened to a + pole, hanging with their heads downwards; and some + of their dogs look so hungry, and their beasts of + burden so tired. We saw a dreadful thing one day, + almost too dreadful to write about--a poor little + dog running yelping through the streets with its + tail cut off! A Taouist priest had cut it off, so + that it should run screaming through all the house + in which evil spirits were supposed to be, because + this would drive them out; then the poor little + dog rushed into the streets, where we saw it, and, + fortunately, father was near enough to have it + killed at once. + + "The people listen more to father than they do to + many missionaries, because he goes to the + dispensary and helps to cure them when they are + ill. + + "I forgot to tell you that when we first went to + the farm nobody saw us, because the farmer, his + wife, daughter, and a labourer were all listening + to a man reading to them. We thought he must have + got hold of some of the Chinese classics. The + pigeon-English people talk sometimes is so funny. + They are so fond of the word 'piecee.' Instead of + 'one child,' they say 'one piecee chilo;' and if + they had many children, I expect they would say + 'piecee muchee.' + + "Leonard makes very good shots at pigeon-English, + and can talk it much better than I can. What we + generally do is to put 'ee' at the end of our + words; but when we spoke to the farmer he could + not understand, and so said, 'You talkee me. Very + good talkee.' When he wanted to tell us that his + house was very large, he said, 'Number one largee, + handsome howsow;' and for 'There is a child + up-stairs,' he said, 'Have got chilo topside.' + + "You asked me how the Chinese dressed, so I must + try to tell you this, although I have written you + such a long letter already. + +[Illustration: CHINESE LADIES.] + +[Illustration: A VILLAGER.] + +[Illustration: A COOLIE.] + + "Gentlemen and ladies seem to dress very much + alike; and people cannot change their clothes as + they choose, because there is a minister of + ceremonies, who says of what colour, stuff, and + shape things are to be made, and when winter and + summer things are to be changed. Even a head-dress + may not be altered as people like, or they might + be breaking a law. And it is so funny about the + nails; some people let some of their nails grow as + long as they can, and are so proud when they are + very long. No Chinaman wears a beard till he is + forty. The outside robe of a gentleman is so long + that it reaches to his ankles, and it is fastened + with buttons. The sleeves are first broad, and + then get narrower and narrower. A sash is tied + round his waist, and from this chop-sticks, a + tobacco-case, fans, and such-like things hang. The + head-dress is a cap with a peak at the top. Men do + not take off their hats to bow; indeed, they would + put them on if they were off. In-doors they wear + silk slippers, pointed and turned up at the toes. + Chinese men are admired when they are stout, and + women when they are thin. Women also have two + robes, the top one often being made of satin, and + reaching from the chin to the ground. Their + sleeves are so long that they do instead of + gloves. They always wear trousers, and often carry + a pipe, for women smoke a great deal in China. + Some, I think, are pretty. They have rather large + eyes and red lips. Old ladies wear very quiet + clothes. Mother says the Chinese are not at all + clean people, and ought to change their clothes + much oftener than they do. People wear shoes of + silk, or cotton, with thick felt soles. The women + spend hours having their hair done into all sorts + of shapes, such as baskets, bird-cages, or + anything they and their amahs can manufacture. + Then besides ornaments in their hair, they wear + ear-rings and bangles. Even boat-women wear these; + and the ladies almost always paint their faces, + to do which they have a kind of enamel. Chinese + ladies have little useful occupation, and spend a + great part of their time, mother says, when they + are not doing embroidery, in gambling and adorning + themselves. + + "The peasants wear a coarse linen shirt, covered + by a cotton tunic, with thin trousers fastened to + the ankles. In wet and cold weather they make a + useful covering of net-work, into which are + plaited rushes, or coarse dry grass, and they put + on very large hats, made in the same way. The + Chinese are not at all lazy people, for father + says after their shutters are shut, and all looks + dark from the outside, they are often at work, and + they get up early too. When men grow old their + tails get so thin. I saw such a wrinkled old man + the other day, with hardly any tail at all. I + think he must have been very sorry about that; he + was an old villager. + + "Coolies wear their tails twisted round their + heads. They do all the heavy work, and are + porters, common house labourers, and sedan-chair + bearers. + + "Leonard says if I write any more stuff he is sure + you will not read it; but I hope you will think it + interesting stuff, at all events, and, therefore, + not mind my letter being so long. There seems to + be so much to tell you when you have not been to + China, and it seems selfish to keep all the + pleasure of seeing such new things to myself. I + meant to tell you about the New Year, which we + have just kept, but I have not room. I hope you + will write to me very soon. We all send love to + you, and + + "Believe me, + "Your very affectionate friend, + "SYBIL GRAHAM." + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +PROCESSIONS. + + +[Illustration] + +A FORTNIGHT later Mr. Graham saw a large, Leonard a small, portion of a +funeral procession, and Sybil was very anxious afterwards to hear all +about it, for Leonard had told her that it seemed even grander than the +marriage one. + +"Please, father," she said, "tell me all that the Chinese do when +anybody dies." + +"I do not think I could tell you all," was her father's reply, "because +it would take too long, and I do not know all myself; but I dare say I +can tell you quite enough to satisfy your curiosity. When a Chinese +thinks that a relation is likely to die soon, he places him, with his +feet towards the door, on a bed of boards, arranging his best robes and +a hat, or cap, quite close to him, that he may be dressed in these just +before he dies. It would be considered a dreadful thing if he were to +die without putting them on. Soon after he is dead, a priest--usually a +priest of Taou--is called in to ask the spirit to make haste to Elysium, +and to cast the man's horoscope, so as to see how far the spirit has got +on its journey." + +"What does casting his horoscope mean?" + +"Finding out the hour of a man's birth, and then foretelling events by +the appearance of the heavens. More clothes are then put upon the dead +man, who, if he be a person of rank, would wear three silk robes. Gongs +are beaten, and when the body is placed in its coffin, every corner of +the room is beaten with a hammer, to frighten away bad spirits. A crown +is also put on any person of rank. Widows and children, to show their +grief, sit on the floor instead of on chairs for seven days, and sleep +on mats near to the husband and father's coffin. On the seventh day +letters are written to friends, informing them of the death, when they +send presents of money to help to defray the funeral expenses. I saw a +very strange letter of thanks yesterday, a copy of which had been sent +to each giver of a present, and besides money, food is sometimes given +or priests are sent. The letter, as far as I can remember, ran thus: +'This is to express the thanks of the orphaned son, who weeps tears of +blood, and bows his head; of the mourning brother, who weeps and bows +his head; of the mourning nephew, who wipes away his tears and bows his +head.' Then a letter is also written to the departed, and burnt, that it +may reach him, whilst cakes and other presents are also sent to him by +means of burning. + +[Illustration: MEN ENGAGED TO WALK IN FUNERAL PROCESSIONS.] + +"On the twenty-first day after death a banquet is prepared in honour +of the spirit, which is supposed, on that day, to come back to his home, +when the entrance doors are shut, for fear any one should come in and +vex the spirit. On the twenty-third day three large paper birds are put +on high poles in front of the house, to carry the soul to Elysium; and +for three days Buddhist priests pray to the ten kings of Buddhist hell +to hasten the flight of the departed soul to the Western Paradise. + +"The coffin is kept in the house for seven weeks, where an altar is set +up, near to which the tablet and portrait of the deceased are put. +Banners, which are looked upon as letters of condolence, are fixed upon +the walls, and on these the merits of the dead man are inscribed. + +"Pictures of the three Buddhas are also to be seen in the house. A lucky +place and day have then to be fixed, by fortune-tellers, for the burial, +and should these not be forthcoming, the coffin would be placed on a +hill till they can be found. Burial is considered of so much importance, +that should a man be drowned his spirit would be called back into a +figure of wood or paper, and buried with pomp. Before the grave-diggers +begin their work, members of the family worship the genii of the +mountain, and write letters to these gods, asking them to be so kind as +to allow the funeral to take place." + +"But how are these letters made to 'arrive?'" + +"They are set on fire and burnt." + +"Leonard says he saw a number of people dressed in white in the +procession." + +"Those were the relatives in deep mourning, white, you remember, being +the deepest, white and blue lesser, mourning." + +[Illustration: CHE-YIN.] + +"And he says he is sure he saw his friend Che-Yin among the mourners. +You know, father, Che-Yin is really a great friend of Leonard's, though +he is so much older than himself, and now he is taking great trouble to +teach him to play on the musical instrument which he plays so well +himself. I believe if Leonard were going to stay longer here he would +really learn to play it quite well. Is it not kind of Che-Yin? But I +must not interrupt you any more," Sybil went on, "and this is so +interesting. Leonard said he wondered so much what could be happening +once when he heard a tremendous noise, and saw people rushing out into +the streets screaming." + +"I think I know what that meant," was the missionary's answer. "On the +day of burial the relatives weep and lament very loudly. They carry a +long white streamer, called a soul-cloth, to the ancestral hall, for the +spirit to say 'Good-bye' to its ancestors. At three or four o'clock in +the morning all decorations, that have been put up in front of the door, +are taken down, and a banquet is made ready, of which the spirit is +invited to partake. You remember I told you that they believe one spirit +is buried with the body. Well, some kind of paper is now again burnt, +while the spirit is asked to accompany the body, and the tablet and +portrait of the dead man are put in a sedan-chair by his eldest son, +over the top of which is a streamer of red satin, on which his name and +titles are written. + +"Distant relations remain standing out in the streets; but I expect what +Leonard saw was people rushing out of the house, dreadfully frightened, +for fear that after all the day might not be lucky, and the spirit +should be vexed, and send trouble to them, in consequence. + +"As the coffin is brought out offerings are also again presented to the +spirit. Two men walk first, carrying large lanterns, on which are +written the name, title, and age of the man who has died. Then come two +other men with a gong, which they beat from time to time." + +"Leonard heard that." + +"Then follow musicians, and behind these some men walk with flags, +others with red boards, on which are inscribed, in golden letters, the +titles of the ancestors of the deceased." + +"Then Leonard saw some gold canopies and sedan-chairs." + +"Offerings made to the dead are carried under gilded canopies, and these +canopies also follow the ancestral tablets. The portrait of the dead man +is in one sedan-chair, and his wooden tablet in another. + +"I believe somewhere about here are more musicians, then comes a man +scattering pieces of paper fastened to tinfoil. This is supposed to be +mock-money for hungry ghosts, the souls of those people who have died at +corners of the streets, and this money is to make peace with them, so +that they shall not injure the soul of the man now being buried. The +eldest son carries a staff, whilst a person walks on either side to +support him." + +"But Leonard said he saw a white cock, when he could not help laughing. +What could this be for?" + +"The cock is also carried to call the soul to go with the body. Behind +the eldest son comes the bier, carried by men or drawn by horses. + +"Many other persons follow. All the people that can, go in the +procession. Women with small feet, unless carried on their slaves' +backs, can only go a short way. At the grave, grains of rice are +scattered over the coffin, when the priest and all the people lift the +cock and bend their bodies forward three times. The tablet is taken out +of the chair, on which the nearest relation makes a mark with a red +pencil; then the sons kneel down, and a priest, if present, addresses +them." + +"Then a priest is not obliged to go to the funeral?" + +"No; sometimes only a man skilled in geomancy is present. Geomancy is a +kind of foretelling things, by means of little dots first made on the +ground and then on paper. The tablet is marked, I believe, to bring good +luck to the sons, and then every one knocks his head on the ground and +does homage to it." + +Sybil was looking very serious, though she was smiling too. + +"Oh, father!" she said, "how much you, and other missionaries, will have +to teach these people! What a pity it is that they cannot know that the +soul is never buried, and that they can't learn to worship and pray to +God, Who would send them such real happiness in answer to their +prayers!" + +"It is indeed, my child," was the missionary's answer. + +"And is anything more done for the dead after this except worship being +paid to them?" + +"Yes; for many days feasts are prepared for the departed relative, hot +water is carried to him to wash his face and hands, and I have also +heard of another way that the Chinese have of 'conveying' spirits to the +kingdoms of Buddhistic hell. Little sedan-chairs are made of bamboo +splints and paper, with four little paper bearers, and sometimes there +is a fifth little paper man, holding an umbrella. These are burnt like +the paper mock-money; and sometimes, after the death of another friend, +a little paper trunk, full of paper clothes, is supplied for one already +dead, and burnt, when the senders believe that the person who died last +is conveying this trunk to the other in safety for them." + +"They think that people need a great many things in the other world, +then," Sybil said. "And do children often worship at their parents' +tombs?" + +"Yes; at certain seasons of the year they make pilgrimages to the tops +of high hills, or to other distant parts, where they prostrate +themselves, this being supposed to continue the homage and reverence +which they showed to them on earth; and they believe that in a great +measure the happiness of the spirits depends upon the adoration and +worship which they pay to them, whilst those who render it secure for +themselves favour from the gods. Twice a day do children also pay +adoration to their dead parents, before a shrine set up in the house to +the memory of departed ancestors." + +"But what is the use of preparing feasts for the dead?" Sybil asked. +"They cannot think that the dead really eat the food?" + +"They seem to do so, and not only lay a place for them, but even put +chop-sticks for their use." + +Another procession Sybil and Leonard saw one day, and this Sybil +described in the last letter that she wrote to her friend, before she +left China. Some men carried an image of the Dragon King, others carried +gongs, drums, and green and black and yellow and white flags, whilst +boys, walking in the procession, called out loudly from time to time. + +The children could not possibly imagine what this procession could be +all about. + +Some characters were written on the flags. + +One man who, as Leonard thought, had a very happy, smiling face, had a +pole slung across his shoulders, from which hung two buckets of water. +In his hand he held a green branch of a shrub which, from time to time, +he dipped in the water, and then sprinkled the ground; while he also +continually called out something. Other men were carrying sticks of +lighted incense. Most of the people, in the procession, wore white +clothes, and white caps without tassels. + +[Illustration: SPRINKLING WATER.] + +Sybil and Leonard were afterwards told that this was praying for rain, +because for some time there had been none. + +The Dragon King was carried, because he is supposed to be the god of +rain. Besides the Dragon King there is a River Dragon, who is both +feared and worshipped. His mother, Loong-Moo, is often worshipped by +people engaged in river traffic. + +The men and boys were calling out "Rain comes!" The yellow and white +banners were to represent wind and water, and the green and black, +clouds. + +The inscription on the flags was, when translated, "Prayer is offered +for rain." + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +THE LAST PEEP. + + +[Illustration] + +SYBIL had made several friends amongst Cantonese ladies and children, +and some very pleasant afternoons had she spent with them. The girls, +she noticed, generally wore cotton tunics and trousers. One little girl, +with whom she had spent a few hours, was in mourning, so she wore white, +bound with blue. Sybil could not help thinking that this was very pretty +mourning, but her brother's was still prettier, for his trousers were of +pale blue silk tied round the ankles, and he wore white shoes. His cue +was tied with blue. And there were such very pretty gardens belonging to +the houses in which they lived, with rockeries, fish-ponds, and +summer-houses almost large enough to live in. + +One lady, whom Sybil visited, astonished her very much, because she had +an only boy, who was very pale-looking and delicate, and she called him +all sorts of names, and seemed to treat him so unkindly. When Sybil had +been ill herself, her mother had always treated her with such extra love +and care, and she fancied that all mothers behaved like this. Then the +Chinese love their boys so much, that one would therefore have thought +an only boy would be so very precious. The next time that she saw the +lady she had given away her child to be adopted by some one else. Mrs. +Graham heard the explanation to this unnatural conduct, and gave it to +Sybil. The woman really loved her boy most fondly, and would have given +anything she had to have him well, but she fancied that the gods were +malicious towards him, and that if she pretended to them that she did +not care for the child they would let him get well again. All that +conduct was to deceive the gods. + +Mr. Graham had several times dined out at Chinese houses, and sometimes +his wife had accompanied him, but as Cantonese ladies never dine with +their husbands in public, where her doing so was likely to give any +offence, even though she were invited, she never went; but many Chinese +very well understand that there are quite different laws for Europeans +than there are for them, and these seemed to be glad to admit English +ladies, with their husbands, to be guests at their houses. + +When Mr. and Mrs. Graham went to one of these dinners, knives and forks +were borrowed for them, and the other English visitors, in place of +chop-sticks. A china spoon and a two-pronged fork were set before each +person, and there were china wine-glasses. The table-napkins were of +brown paper. Basins of fruit, from which all helped themselves as they +liked, were in the middle of the table. There were a great many soups +and other courses. Every now and then the host took something out of a +basin with his chop-stick, and offered to put it into the mouths of his +guests. Out of politeness they were bound to accept these gifts. There +was not any beef, as no Chinaman eats beef. Music was played, and slaves +fanned the people during dinner. + +Once when Sybil visited some of her young Chinese friends, the tea was +brought in to them in covered cups, and when they wanted more, +tea-leaves were put into the cups and boiling water was poured upon +them. She had learnt now to be able to drink tea without milk or sugar, +but she could not like it. + +A two months' stay at Canton brought the children to the end of four +months and a half of their stay in China, and left but six weeks more +before they were to return to England. It was the middle of March when +the Grahams said "Good-bye" to their kind friends at the Yamen, and +returned to Hong-Kong. Sybil could not bear to say this farewell, as it +was the last but one, and she knew how very quickly six weeks would +pass. + +They had all enjoyed their stay in Canton very much, and often thought +about the New Year's Day which had been kept, while they were there, +with such grand rejoicings. At midnight, on the last day of the old +year, a bell, never used except on this occasion, pealed forth, when, at +the signal, people rushed into the streets in crowds to let off +fireworks. + +Every temple and every pagoda was lighted up, and people burnt incense +before idols in their own homes. Some streets are lighted in Canton by +lanterns, but, as a rule, the smaller streets are in darkness, with the +exception of paper lanterns, which hang, every now and then, from before +shops or private houses, and even these are put out by half-past nine +o'clock. Paraffin lamps are now being introduced along Chinese city +streets. + +All New Year's night a great noise was to be heard, and in the morning +friends dressed in their best to call upon, and salute, one another. + +In the streets they were to be seen prostrating themselves upon the +ground. Rich and poor alike had great rejoicings on New Year's Day, the +rich often keeping up their holiday for ten days. + +Latterly Mr. Graham had been several times backwards and forwards to +Hong-Kong, where he had made his final arrangements. + +The missionary, whose place he was about to fill, would, when he left +the island, take with him to England, besides his own family, Sybil and +Leonard Graham. Until they sailed, the Grahams would all stay with them +at the Mission House, when it would be handed over to Mr. Graham. + +The other missionary had three children of his own, two daughters, +twelve and ten years old, and a son of nine, but as they had been absent +from Hong-Kong when the Grahams had been there before, the children had +not yet made one another's acquaintance. + +The eldest, Katie, now became Sybil's very useful interpreter, for as +she had been born in China and lived there all her life, she could +understand, and speak, many Chinese dialects. + +Sybil now knew several Chinese words herself. "Che-fan," or "Have you +eaten your rice?" was "How do you do?" though, as a rule, when people +said "How do you do?" to her it was "Chin-chin mississi?" + +When she went out visiting, questions such as the following were +generally put to her, "What honourable name have you?" "What is the name +of your beautiful dwelling?" and "What age have you?" Had she been grown +up, this question would probably have been, "What is your venerable +age?" + +Leonard was often told to "catchee plenty chow-chow," which means "eat a +very good dinner," but as somehow he generally seemed able to do this, +he hardly needed the kind advice. + +Mrs. Graham's amah amused Sybil very much. She had been a great +traveller, having visited both England and America, and she liked +England much the best. One day she said to Sybil: "Melicä no good +countly. Welly bad chow-chow. Appool number one. My hab chow-chow sixty +pieces before bleakfast. Any man no got dollar, all hab got paper. +Number one foolo pidgin. No good countly. My no likee Melicä. My likee +England side more better." This meant: "America is not a good country. +It has very bad food, but first-rate apples. I ate sixty before +breakfast. No one has any dollars there, all use paper money. Very +foolish business. Not a good country. I do not like America. I like +England better." + +Some pleasure or another was always forthcoming for Sybil and Leonard, +and the few last "Peep-shows" were very precious. + +[Illustration: "SING-SONG."] + +One day, when they were out, they saw a "Sing-Song," as the performance +was called. Under a canopy, in the open streets, children were acting +and dancing. To do so, they had dressed up in very gorgeous costumes, +their ornaments and head-dresses being grander, Leonard said, than +anything he had ever seen before; and the little Chinese actors +themselves seemed to be thoroughly at their ease, and quite at home, in +their grand attire. + +"Why did that policeman come after you to-day, father, and take down the +name of the boat that we got into?" Leonard once asked, when he and his +father had been out together, and were returning home. + +"Policemen have done that several times, if you had only noticed," was +the reply. "That was to guard us from pirates. They took the name of our +boat, so that the owner could be held responsible if we did not return +safely. The Chinese are dreadful pirates, and are generally on the +look-out for opportunities to rob. Sometimes a band of them will take +their passages in a ship, and when fairly out at sea will all rise in +mutiny against the captain and his officers, and perhaps murder them, so +as to be able to plunder as they choose." + +"I should think the boat-policemen had plenty of work to do," Leonard +then said. + +"Father, do you remember well when you were just eleven?" the child then +asked suddenly, going, as it seemed, right away from his present +subject. "Did you ever want to be a sailor then? ever think for certain +you would be one?" + +"I do not remember ever having had that wish." + +"Well, I have had it over and over again, and thought that there could +not be anything better in the world than going about in ships, and +seeing different places. I've wished to be a sailor for ever so many +years; but, you know, I don't wish it now." + +[Illustration: FISHERMEN AND FISHERWOMEN.] + +Mr. Graham smiled. I expect it was Leonard's "ever so many years" which +made him do so. + +"Don't you?" his father asked. "Then what do you want to be now?" + +"Something, father, I'm not half good enough for," the boy answered, +thoughtfully. "A missionary! Oh, father, I do so want to be a missionary +now, and come to China, as you and grandfather have done! Shouldn't you +like it too? I know mother would; and perhaps the Church Missionary +Society would send me out if I asked them." + +"I should like nothing better, my little son," was the missionary's +reply. + +A few minutes later Leonard was out of doors again, flying himself one +of the "wonderful kites," which a Chinaman had made for, and given to, +him, and his father was watching his little fellow with pleasure almost +amounting to pride. + +Was this his impulsive boy's own thought, he wondered, or had his sister +suggested it to him. + +Quite his own; but no doubt the quiet, gentle influence which Sybil +exerted over her younger brother was very good for him. + +"Do you think, Sybil, that the heathen Chinese could teach the Christian +English anything?" Mr. Graham asked his daughter, as they sat and talked +together the very last evening. + +"I am sure they could," she answered quickly; "many things. Filial love +and obedience for one, respect and reverence for old age for another; +and then, though they do believe such silly, superstitious things, there +seems to be such a reality, so much earnestness, about the way some of +them carry out their religion. They do not mind how early they get up +and go out to keep a religious festival, and they seem to ask a sort of +blessing, from their gods, on everything they do, and keep their fasts +and feasts so very regularly; but I think their love for their parents +beats everything. 'Boy' asked for a holiday yesterday, because it was +his mother's birthday, and got up very early to do his work before he +went." "Boy" was a kind of footman. + +"Yes; parents' birthdays are kept up much more than are those of +children. Sometimes on their birthdays they will sit under a crimson +canopy, whilst their children kneel and perform the 'kow-tow' to them. +The fifty-first birthday, and every ten years afterwards, is celebrated +with great pomp, when religious ceremonies are often performed at the +Temple of Longevity. I believe thirty Buddhist priests will then +sometimes return thanks for three days. + +"When a man is eighty-one, the fact is occasionally communicated to the +Emperor, who may then allow money to be given for a monumental arch to +be erected to the old man's honour. + +"After parents are dead their birthdays are still celebrated in the +ancestral hall, where their portraits hang." + +"I suppose children give their parents beautiful presents on their +birthdays?" + +"When they begin to get old the best present that a child can, and does, +make a parent, and one which he values more than anything else, is a +coffin, because, you know, a Chinaman thinks that unless his body be +buried properly his spirit cannot rest. + +"The Chinese are strange contradictions," Mr. Graham went on. "Although +they are very courageous in bearing torture, they are dreadful liars, +and a great liar is generally a great coward. Then they are sober and +industrious, but slaves to the opium drug; meek and gentle, but, at the +same time, treacherous and cruel; most dutiful to their parents, but +often very jealous of their neighbours; and then, perhaps strangest of +all, is their love towards their children, but yet their readiness to +put their girls to death." + +Sybil was silent for several minutes. "Oh, father!" she then said, +"isn't the time dreadfully near now? Fancy leaving you and dear mother! +How can we?" + +"You must go to _your_ work, darling, and we must stay here to do ours. +Is it not so?" Mr. Graham asked, in the dear, kind, soft voice that +Sybil loved so much, and which she always called his "preachy voice." +"But what shall give us comfort? what shall we think about when we are +trying to do our several duties, though apart, I hope contentedly and +well? That it is God who has called us to our several duties; it is His +Almighty will which we have now and always to obey; but remember, not +alone, not unaided, dear Sybil. Who will be our guide, stay, and +comfort, when we are separated from one another?" + +Sybil knew, but could not answer, because she was crying. + +[Illustration: WOMAN OF POAH-BI.] + +"Your mother and I," Mr. Graham went on, "in commending our children to +the Fatherly love and care of Him Who gave you to us, know that we place +you in the safest keeping; and you yourselves have also both learnt, +have you not, how to go to our Father and 'Supreme Ruler' in earnest +prayer, whenever tempted to do what would displease Him? A missionary, +you know, is one who is sent on a mission--to fulfil a duty. A +missionary's children must not shrink from fulfilling, must not fail to +fulfil, the mission on which they are sent, must they?" + +Sybil looked comforted. She liked this last "Peep-show" very much, and +kissed her father to show him that she did. + +A few minutes later she said, "Do you know, father, I believe little Chu +is really beginning to believe and understand properly, for the other +day, when I was saying my prayers, she came and knelt down beside me, +and she would never kneel to our God before, even when she saw the +Christian woman at Poah-bi do so, with whom we stayed, and with whom she +was such good friends. I shall often remember that woman and her dear +little baby, which she tied to herself so funnily, because I liked them +so very much. + +"Poor little Chu!" Sybil then went on. "I shall be so glad to see her +again when I come back to you, but I do not think she will like me to go +away." + +"Chu will have to be a great deal at school now. She has her work to do +too, you know." + +"How I shall think of you, father, and the Hong-Kong Mission on +Intercession Day, when it comes round, shan't I?" + +"Yes, Sybil; and not only on Intercession Day, but always in your +prayers, you must remember to pray very fervently, both for Chinese and +other unbelievers, and not only for me, but for all who are seeking +their conversion." + +"It seems a more real thing now to pray for," Sybil said. + +"And to give thanks for too. Here in Hong-Kong we have great cause to be +thankful." + +"What a dear old lady that was who was baptized on Sunday! but what was +the Christian name she chose? I could not hear it." + +"Mong-Oi, which means 'desiring the love' (of Jesus)." + +"That was a beautiful name, wasn't it? And there were a number of +communicants for here too. How many native communicants are there in +Hong-Kong?" + +"Between sixty and seventy; and what is so comforting is that the +communicants seem to be really devout, and to realise what being a +communicant means for, and requires of, them, and it is no easy matter +at all for natives of China to embrace Christianity. Sometimes they have +to leave all their relations, and suffer much persecution in +consequence." + +"When was the Hong-Kong mission begun?" Sybil asked. + +"In 1862." + +Although the results were far from what the zealous missionaries would +fain have seen them, Mr. Graham was right in saying that the Mission +from the Church of England to Hong-Kong had cause to take hope and be +thankful. + +Several men and women were now under instruction both for baptism and +confirmation. The mission schools for boys numbered more than 190, and +for girls more than thirty, and here the children were religiously as +well as secularly instructed. + +There were, although only two European missionaries and one native +clergyman, twenty-three native Christian teachers, and 183 native +Christians. The Mission comprised, besides St. Stephen's Church and the +agencies around it in the island of Hong-Kong, many out-stations in the +province of Quangtung occupied by native agents. + +The Prayer Book, and, still better, the Holy Bible, translated into +their own tongue, were now circulated among the people, some of whom +were really learning to love and value them; and not only were the +services for the Christians well attended, but every evening the heathen +were to be seen in numbers going to hear sermons that were to be +preached for them. + +Well, then, might Mr. Graham go forth to his new work with hope. + +"How much you will have to do, father," Sybil said, "if you go to the +Medical Missionary Institution so often, and do all your other work +besides! But the people seem to be very grateful to you. 'Boy' said +yesterday that you were 'a hundred man good,' and I know what that +means: 'The best of men.'" + +Mr. Graham smiled. + +"I like, and it is good for us all," he said, "to have plenty to do; and +one work, you know, may help on the other." + +"I expect mother will help you a very great deal too." + +"She is sure to do that." Sybil knew she was. + +All day long the child had spent beside her much-loved mother; now, for +another hour, she sat on and talked with her father, receiving good, +kind counsel, when Leonard, who had been closeted with his mother, +listening to her dear words of best advice, came in, with eyes swollen +from crying, and then the four sat together till it was long past +bed-time; but what of that? To-morrow, on board ship, there would be +nothing to keep them up late, when they could make up for to-night, and +go early to bed. + +To-morrow came, as happy and sad to-morrows all alike will come; when +the mother gave her children their last kisses, the father their last +kisses and benedictions, and Sybil and Leonard Graham started on their +homeward voyage to England, leaving their parents very grateful for +having such good, kind friends to whose care on board ship to entrust +them. + +Both children were to return at once to their former schools, and spend +their holidays together at Mrs. Graham's brother's house, who was also +the rector of a country parish, and where she knew they would very soon +feel quite at home. + +Sybil and Leonard Graham, the children of brave parents, were brave +children themselves, and as they had promised not to grieve more then +they could help, they at once did battle with their tears, and before +long were talking really cheerfully with their friends. + +"Who knows," Sybil said once to Leonard, when she and her brother found +themselves alone, "but what they might come over for a small +holiday-trip in two or three years' time? and if not, I believe when I +go out you are to go with me for another 'Peep-show' holiday, and to see +_them_!" + +"Of course I ought to go whenever I can," Leonard answered, "as I'm +going to be a missionary out there myself." + +Sybil had said "them" because she could not yet say, without crying, +those two dear, sacred words, father and mother, which stand alone in +the vocabulary of every language, and have no peers. + +Mrs. Graham herself was then alone, shedding bitter tears, which she +had stifled until her children left her, but which she could keep back +no longer. + +Yet, though her mother's loving heart was very sad and sore, she would +not weep long, but would, to the very best of her ability, go forth at +once to help her husband--who could not but feel sad now too--in the +good work in which she had encouraged him to embark, counting _all_ the +costs beforehand. + +And Sybil, who had said "_I like my father to be a missionary very +much_," would not unsay the words now, though it took both her parents +so far away from her and Leonard. Oh no! since she had seen the great +need that there was for missionaries to China, she liked, even better +than before, her father "to be a missionary!" + +[Illustration] + + * * * * * + +Transcriber's Notes: + +Bold text is surrounded by =equal signs= and italic text by +_underscores_. + +Text uses uses varied hyphenation on the naming of the cities. This +includes both Fu-kien and Fukien, Poahbi and Poa-bi, and Pei-ho and +Peiho, among others. + +Obvious punctuation errors repaired. + +Page 31, Illustration caption: MÊNE changed to MÈNE (HATA-MÈNE-TA-KIE) + +Page 74, "r st" changed to "rest" (rest of their lives) + +Page 178, "Europeon" changed to "European" (the European settlement) + +Page 196, "al" changed to "all" (soon. We all) + +Page 212, twice the word "Melicä" was spelled with a macron over the +"a". This was replaced with a "ä" for this text version. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Peeps Into China, by E. C. 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C. 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C. Phillips + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Peeps Into China + Or: The Missionary's Children + +Author: E. C. Phillips + +Release Date: November 3, 2010 [EBook #34199] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PEEPS INTO CHINA *** + + + + +Produced by Emmy, Charlene Taylor and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + + + + + +</pre> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 391px;"> +<img src="images/coverpage.jpg" width="391" height="600" alt="Cover." title="" /> +</div> + +<div class='tnote'><b>Transcriber's Note:</b> Clicking on the map on page 15 will +link to a larger version for better readability.</div> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 303px;"> +<img src="images/i-006.png" width="303" height="499" alt="A STREET SHOWMAN." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A STREET SHOWMAN.</span> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + +<h1>PEEPS INTO CHINA;</h1> +<div class='center'>OR,</div> +<h3>The Missionary's Children.</h3> + +<h3>BY</h3> +<h2>E. C. PHILLIPS,</h2> + +<div class='copyright'>AUTHOR OF "TROPICAL READING-BOOKS," "THE ORPHANS," "BUNCHY,"<br /> +"HILDA AND HER DOLL," ETC.<br /><br /><br /></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 330px;"> +<img src="images/i-009.png" width="330" height="325" alt="boats" title="" /> +</div> + +<div class='center'><br /><br /><br /><big>CASSELL & COMPANY, <span class="smcap">Limited</span>:</big><br /> +<i>LONDON, PARIS, NEW YORK & MELBOURNE.</i><br /> +<br /> +<small>[ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.]</small></div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + + +<div class='center'> +<b>To</b><br /> +<br /> +MY DEAR PARENTS,<br /> +<br /> +<small>IN</small><br /> +<br /> +LOVING MEMORY.<br /> +</div> + +<div class='poem'><br /> +"Can I forget thy cares, from helpless years<br /> +<span style="margin-left: .5em;">Thy tenderness for me?"</span><br /> +</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i-013a.png" width="500" height="175" alt="Contents." title="" /> +</div> + + + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Contents"> +<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'><small>CHAPTER</small></td><td align='right'><small>PAGE</small></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>I. </td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Country Rectory</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_9">9</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>II. </td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The First Peep</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_21">21</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>III. </td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Religions of China</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_44">44</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>IV. </td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Chinese Childhood</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_69">69</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>V. </td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Merchant Showman</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_89">89</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>VI. </td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Little Chu and Woo-Urh</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_100">100</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>VII. </td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Leonard's Exploit in Formosa</span> </td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_114">114</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>VIII. </td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Boat Population</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_134">134</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>IX. </td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">At Canton</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_153">153</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>X. </td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">A Bride and Bridegroom</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_179">179</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>XI. </td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Processions</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_197">197</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>XII. </td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">The Last Peep</span></td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_208">208</a></td></tr> +</table></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 331px;"> +<img src="images/i-013b.png" width="331" height="151" alt="cherub decoration" title="" /> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i-015a.png" width="500" height="158" alt="Decoration: Windmill" title="" /> +</div> + + + + +<h2>CHAPTER I.</h2> + +<div class='chaptertitle'>THE COUNTRY RECTORY.</div> + + +<div class="figright" style="width: 201px;"> +<img src="images/i-015b.png" width="201" height="344" alt="Decoration: Pagoda" title="" /> +</div> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 68px;"> +<img src="images/i-015c-nquote.png" width="68" height="71" alt="N" title="" /> +</div><div class='unindent'>OT really; you can't +mean it really!"</div> + +<p>"As true as possible. +Mother told me her <i>very +own</i> self," was the emphatic +reply.</p> + +<p>Two children, brother and +sister, the boy aged ten, the +girl three years older, were +carrying on this conversation in +the garden of a country rectory.</p> + +<p>"But really and truly, on +your word of honour," repeated +Leonard, as though he could +not believe what his sister had just related to him.</p> + +<p>"I hope my word is always a word of honour; I +thought everybody's word ought to be that," Sybil +Graham replied a little proudly, for when she had run +quickly to bring such important news to her brother, she<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span> +could not help feeling hurt that he should refuse to +believe what she said.</p> + +<p>"And we are really going there, and shall actually +see the 'pig-tails' in their own country, and the splendid +kites they fly, and all the wonderful things that father +used to tell us about? Oh! it seems too good to be +true."</p> + +<p>"But it is true," Sybil repeated with emphasis. +"And I dare say we might even see tea growing, as it +does grow there, you know, and I suppose we shall be +carried about in sedan-chairs ourselves." She was +really as happy as her brother, only not so excitable.</p> + +<p>At this moment their mother joined them. "Oh, +mother!" the boy then exclaimed, "how beautiful! +Sybil has just told me, but I could not believe her."</p> + +<p>"I thought the news would delight you both very +much," Mrs. Graham answered. "Your father and I +have been thinking about going to China for some time, +but we would not tell you anything about it until +matters were quite settled, and now everything seems +to be satisfactorily arranged for us to start in three +months' time."</p> + +<p>"That will be in August, then," they both said at +once.</p> + +<p>"Oh, how very beautiful!" Sybil exclaimed. "<i>I like +my father to be a missionary very much.</i> He must be +glad too; isn't he, mother?"</p> + +<p>"Very glad indeed, although the joy will entail +some sadness also. I expect your father will grieve a +good deal to leave this dear little country parish of ours, +and the duties he has so loved to perform here, but a +wider field of usefulness having opened out for him, he +is very thankful to obey the call."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 316px;"> +<img src="images/i-017.png" width="316" height="500" alt="THE CHURCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE CHURCH.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span></p> + +<p>"And father will do it so well, mother," answered +Sybil. "I wonder whether I shall be able to do anything +to help him there?"</p> + +<p>"I think you have long since found out, Sybil," +was her mother's loving answer, "that you can always +be doing something to help us."</p> + +<p>Sybil and Leonard had as yet only learnt a part of +the story. They had still to learn the rest. This going +to China would not be all beautiful, all joy for them, +especially for Sybil, with her very affectionate nature +and dread of saying "Good-byes," for she and Leonard +were only to be taken out on a trip—a pleasure tour—to +see something of China, and to return to England to go +on with their education at the end of six months.</p> + +<p>Mr. Graham then calling his wife, the children were +again left alone.</p> + +<p>It was no easy matter to go as a missionary to China. +This Mr. Graham well knew, for his father, although +only for a short time, had been one over there before +him, and had discovered—what so many other later +brother missionaries have found out also—that to obtain +even a hearing on the subject of religion from a Chinaman, +who has been trained and brought up to be a +superstitious idolater, very vain of his wisdom and +antiquity as a nation, and to look upon Europeans as +barbarians, is often a most difficult matter.</p> + +<p>Eighteen years before Mr. Graham the elder went out +to Peking as one of the first missionaries to China, and +his only son, who had then just qualified for the medical +profession, accompanied him. A year later, the father +dying, his son returned at once to England, but with a +changed mind, determined now to seek holy orders and +enter the ministry, instead of following his profession,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span> +so as by thus doing to add one more to the number of +earnest clergy that his short stay in China had shown +him were so much needed. To carry out his resolution, +he went to Oxford to prepare, and soon after his ordination +he married, and settled down, in the little country +village, where we find him, surrounded by his little +family.</p> + +<p>Often since then had he contemplated leaving +England for missionary work, but until now he had +been prevented from carrying his wishes into effect.</p> + +<p>His knowledge of medicine had not been lost to him, +for many a sufferer in the little, yet wide-spreading +country parish, who lived at too great a distance to send +for the doctor for a slight ailment, had been very thankful, +when the clergyman came in to read and pray with +him, to learn from him what his slight ailment was, +and how he could prevent its becoming a great one.</p> + +<p>And this knowledge would be most helpful and +invaluable in China, where Mr. Graham knew that the +science of medicine was held in veneration by the +inhabitants, and gained a ready admission to those who +were glad to be cured of bodily ailments, but knew not +how sick their souls were.</p> + +<p>The missionary's slight acquaintance with the +Chinese dialect, which, when time permitted, he had +endeavoured to keep up, would also be of service to him +when he arrived in China; for although the dialects of +the south, where he was going, were very different from +those of the north, the Mandarin, or Court language, +spoken by the officials, was understood in every part.</p> + +<p>"That's why father's been reading all those books +lately with the pig-tail pictures in, and wonderful kites, +and why he has been studying the language without<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span> +an alphabet," Leonard said, when he and his sister were +again alone. "If I hadn't been at school so much, I expect +I should have found out what was going to happen."</p> + +<p>"I don't believe we should ever find out anything +that father did not wish us to know, however much we +wanted to do so," answered Sybil. "But isn't it +splendid?—all but one thing, and that is having to leave +everybody, and my best friend Lily Keith. I shan't +like doing that at all."</p> + +<p>"And I shall miss my friends too, of course," said +Leonard; "but then I expect we shall make some new +ones; and I thought you were so fond of writing letters. +Why, you could write splendid ones from China, and +tell Lily what we see, and perhaps mother would draw +you some pictures for them, for she can draw anything, +you know."</p> + +<p>Sybil was comforted, for she was very fond of writing +letters, and her friend, she knew, would be very glad to +have some from China.</p> + +<p>Directly after the six o'clock dinner was the +children's hour with father, who, being a very busy man, +had to regulate all his time; but this one hour a day +belonged entirely to his family, and unless anything unforeseen +happened, they had and claimed every moment +of it.</p> + +<p>Sybil came down-stairs first, and going up to her +father, who was sitting by a large bow window, gazing +out of it, with a very serious look on his face, she said +with surprise as she kissed him: "You look sad, dear +father. Aren't you glad to go to China?"</p> + +<p>He drew her on to his knee.</p> + +<p>"Very glad, my darling," was the answer; "but +I was just picturing to myself some farewells that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span> +will have to be taken. I shall be very sorry, too, +to say 'Good-bye' here, where our lives have been so +blessed and our prayers so abundantly answered. We +cannot help feeling sorry to leave our old friends, +can we?"</p> + +<p>"But you don't look, father," she continued, "as if +that were all that you had been thinking."</p> + +<p>"I dare say it was also about the work in which I +am so soon to engage, for that, Sybil, is full of grave responsibility; +but now I think it is my turn to ask what +your thoughts are," he went on, for at that moment +Sybil was looking quite as grave as, just before, her +father could have looked.</p> + +<p>"I was remembering two verses of a piece of poetry +that I learnt last term at school, which I think must +have been written for missionaries," she replied.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a href="images/i-022-mapbig.jpg"><img src="images/i-022-map.jpg" width="600" height="421" alt="MAP OF CHINA." title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">MAP OF CHINA.</span> +</div> + +<p>Her father then asking her to repeat them to him, +Sybil said:—</p> + +<div class='poem'> +"Sow ye beside all waters,<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">Where the dew of heaven may fall;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">Ye shall reap, if ye be not weary,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">For the Spirit breathes o'er all.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">Sow, though the thorns may wound thee;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">One wore the thorns for thee;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">And, though the cold world scorn thee,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">Patient and hopeful be.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">Sow ye beside all waters,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">With a blessing and a prayer,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">Name Him whose hand upholds thee,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">And sow thou everywhere.</span><br /> +<br /> +"Work! in the wild waste places,<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">Though none thy love may own;</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">God guides the down of the thistle</span><br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span><span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">The wandering wind hath sown.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">Will Jesus chide thy weakness,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">Or call thy labour vain?</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">The Word that for Him thou bearest</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">Shall return to Him again.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">On!—with thine heart in heaven,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">Thy strength—thy Master's might,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">Till the wild waste places blossom</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">In the warmth of a Saviour's light."</span><br /> +</div> + +<p>"Thank you, Sybil," said her father. "I am sure +you will make a capital little missionary's daughter some +day."</p> + +<p>"To what part of China are we going, father?" +she then asked; "to the same place where you were +before?"</p> + +<p>"No; quite in another direction. You know when I +was last in China I was at Peking, in the north, and +now I am to be in Hong-Kong, an island in the south; +but we shall not go there direct, as I wish to take you +to see several places before finally landing."</p> + +<p>"Wait a minute, please, father," Sybil then exclaimed, +"while I just fetch my map to look them out +as you tell them to me." And as she spoke she ran off, +to return the next minute with an atlas, in which she +found these places as her father mentioned them: +Shanghai, Amoy, the Island of Formosa, Swatow, +Hong-Kong, Macao, and Canton.</p> + +<p>"I wish, father, you would tell us some day all you +can remember about Peking," then said Leonard, as he +ran in and joined his father and sister, having till now been +very busy, first coaxing his good friend the gardener to +help him cut and put up some roosts in the fowl-house, +and then showing his handiwork to his mother. "You<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span> +know what I mean: something like what you used to +tell us."</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 360px;"> +<img src="images/i-024.png" width="360" height="500" alt="LEONARD IN THE GARDEN." title="" /> +<span class="caption">LEONARD IN THE GARDEN.</span> +</div> + +<p>"I will try to arouse up my memory, and tell +you what I can on board ship, when we shall have, I<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span> +suppose, seven or eight weeks with very little to do, +and when you will, no doubt, be glad of some true +stories to while away the time."</p> + +<p>"I wish we were going to start to-morrow," rejoined +Leonard, who was, I am afraid, a boy without a particle +of that virtue which we call "patience." He wanted +his mother now to go into the poultry-yard with him to +see the roosts he had, and as she liked to enter into +all his pleasures and useful occupations, she was very +pleased to go.</p> + +<p>Before either of them came in again, Sybil had +heard "the rest" from her father; that she and Leonard +were, after a six months' long holiday in China, to +return to England to continue their education. It was +a terrible blow to her, to whom a long separation +from her parents seemed almost like an impossibility. +Her bright eyes filled with tears.</p> + +<p>"Oh, father!" she said; "and leave you and +mother?"</p> + +<p>"It must be for a time, my darling, till your +education is completed, as your mother and I both +wish you to remain at the school where you are, but +when school-days are over, about four years hence, I +hope to be able to have you out with us. It will be +longer for poor old Leonard, won't it?"</p> + +<p>"I don't think I care to go to China now, father," +Sybil then said.</p> + +<p>"Oh yes you do, Sybil," was the answer; "you like +your father to be a missionary very much, you know, +do you not?" Her mother had repeated this saying. +"And, my child," he continued, "you know that it +must be a dreadful trial for so very good and loving +a mother as yours to part from her children; but now<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span> +that a call has come to me to do my Master's work +in a foreign land, and she is helping me to obey it, +you would not make her trial greater, would you, by +letting her see you sad? Oh no! I know you would +not; but you would help us to do our duty more +bravely. Is it not so, my child?"</p> + +<p>Sybil buried her face on her father's shoulder, and +sobbed, but on seeing her mother coming up the +garden towards them, she quickly wiped her tears away, +and tried to look cheerful. Her father had gone wisely +to work in giving her such a reason for trying to +overcome her sorrow, and he knew that now she +would set herself bravely to work to help, and not to +hinder, her parents' undertaking.</p> + +<p>And they were not to be parted for nearly another +year, she said to herself, and meanwhile they were to +have all sorts of enjoyments with their parents.</p> + +<p>Mrs. Graham brought a message from Leonard for +Sybil to go and see his roosts, which she at once obeyed, +affectionately kissing her mother as she passed her. +That was to say that she knew, and a great deal more.</p> + +<p>Another piece of news Sybil now conveyed to Leonard, +and as she told it, even he could not tell that it made +her very unhappy. I wonder if he believed at once this +time!</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 239px;"> +<img src="images/i-026.png" width="239" height="211" alt="Decoration: Birdhouse" title="" /> +</div><hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i-027a.png" width="500" height="161" alt="Decoration: Peepshow" title="" /> +</div> + + + + +<h2>CHAPTER II.</h2> + +<div class='chaptertitle'>THE FIRST PEEP.</div> + + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 177px;"> +<img src="images/i-027b-t.png" width="177" height="231" alt="T" title="" /> +</div><div class='unindent'>HE missionary's family party had +set sail, and the steamship, in which +they were passengers, was now +fairly out at sea.</div> + +<p>As far as money was concerned, +Mr. Graham had no anxieties, for +being the only son of a very wealthy +man, who had lost his wife some +time before he died himself, Mr. +Graham had, at his father's death, inherited the whole +of his large fortune.</p> + +<p>"Now, father, don't you think it's high time you +began to tell us about old Peking?" Leonard said, a few +days after they had sailed. "I did not ask you at +first, because we had plenty to do to look about us, but +now that there's nothing in the world but water to see +anywhere, we should so like to hear some stories; so +please begin, if it won't trouble you too much."</p> + +<p>And sitting on deck, with Sybil on his right and +Leonard on his left, Mr. Graham did as he was requested, +and gave his children what they considered<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span> +a very interesting description of a portion of that vast +empire which they were so soon to visit. "The Chinese," +he began, "are a very ancient race, so ancient, indeed, +that the origin of their monarchy is not known."</p> + +<p>"Do you mind waiting one minute, father, just to +tell me a thing I have forgotten, and you told me once?" +Leonard asked. "What does the word China mean?"</p> + +<p>"The ancient name for China, Tien-sha, means +'inferior only to heaven.' Chinese history begins with +the fabulous ages, two or three million years ago, +when the Chinese say that no land but theirs was inhabited, +and gods reigned upon the earth, which was +made for them. After the gods, they tell us, came +mythical kings, who were giants, had the power of +working miracles, and lived for thousands of years; but +it is really supposed that the first people who passed +beyond the deserts of Central Asia settled in the province +of Shen-si, which borders on Tartary, and here laid the +foundation of the present monarchy of China.</p> + +<p>"Some Chinese historians think that their first +mortal Emperor was Fuh-hi, whose date of coming to +the throne is fixed as early as 2,852 years <span class="smcap">b.c.</span> He is +described as possessing great virtues, and was called +by his subjects the 'Son of heaven'—a title which +is still given to Emperors of China, who are foolishly +supposed, by some of their subjects, to be of celestial +origin. He is said to have taught them how to keep +laws and to live peaceably, also to have invented the +arts of music and numbers. Certainly the Chinese +have understood music from very early ages, and class +it among the chief of the sciences.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i-029.png" width="600" height="397" alt="MUSICIANS." title="" /> +<span class="caption">MUSICIANS.</span> +</div> + +<p>"They have at least fifty different kinds of wind and +string musical instruments, made of wood, stone, or metal,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span> +and they play a great deal, but especially upon their fiddle +instruments. They do not like our music at all.</p> + +<p>"But now we must go back to a little more Chinese +history. There is nothing to prove that the Chinese +existed as a nation before the time of Yu the Great, +whose date of accession is said to be 2,285 years <span class="smcap">b.c.</span>, +and he is also included in the Legendary Period to +which Fuh-hi belongs. After the Legendary Period +came the Semi-Historical Period in Chinese history; +the really Historical Period dating from the early part +of the eighth century before Christ.</p> + +<p>"Different dynasties succeeded each other, till from +the years 500 to 200 <span class="smcap">b.c.</span> many petty kings, reigning +over various provinces, waged war against one +another. At length a fierce warrior, named Ching-wang, +went to war with, and conquered, all of them, +and made himself master of the whole empire, about 200 +years <span class="smcap">b.c.</span>, his government comprising about the northern +half of modern China. He was the first monarch of the +dynasty called Tsin, or Chin. Next he turned his arms +against the Tartars, who were a portion of those people +whom we read of in history by the name of Huns, and who +were now making constant inroads into China. They were +capital soldiers—I believe every Tartar has now to be a +soldier—and as the Chinese dreaded them very much, +the Emperor thought out a way to keep them off. He +erected a great wall along the whole extent of the +northern frontier of China, of very great height, thickness, +and strength, made of two walls of brick many feet +apart, the space between them being, for half the length +of the wall, filled up with earth, and the other half with +gravel and rubbish. On it were square towers, which +were erected at about a hundred yards' distance from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span> +one another. Some say this wall extended 1,500 miles +from the sea to the most western provinces of Shen-si; +McCulloch says it is 1,250 miles in length. It was +carried over mountains and across rivers. Six horsemen +could ride abreast upon it. But there was great +cruelty practised in its construction, for the Emperor +obliged every third labouring man in the kingdom to +work at this wall without payment.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i-031.png" width="500" height="420" alt="GREAT WALL OF CHINA, GULF OF PE-CHI-LI." title="" /> +<span class="caption">GREAT WALL OF CHINA, GULF OF PE-CHI-LI.</span> +</div> + +<p>"It took five years to finish, and has now existed for +more than two thousand years. It is called Wan-li-chang, +or Myriad-mile Wall."</p> + +<p>"And did it keep out the Tartars?" Leonard asked.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span></p> + +<p>"No; the little Emperor Tsai-tien, born in 1871, and +now on the throne, is, I believe, a descendant of theirs. +He is called Kwang-su, which means 'Continuation of +glory.'"</p> + +<p>"Does the Emperor's eldest son always reign?"</p> + +<p>"No; the ablest or best son is generally chosen. +Ching-wang seemed to think that he was master of +the whole universe, and called himself Che-Hwang-ti, +or First Emperor; and then to try to show that he +was the founder of the monarchy, he had, as he thought, +all the historical documents burnt that could prove +otherwise, but did not succeed, for some that had been +hidden behind the walls of houses were found after his +death."</p> + +<p>"What a quantity of stuff it must have taken to +build the wall!" said Leonard.</p> + +<p>"Yes; the material in the Great Wall, including the +earth in the middle of it, is said to be more than enough +to surround the circumference of the earth, on two of its +great circles, with two walls of six feet high and two +feet thick. Guards are stationed in the strong towers +by which the wall is fortified; every important pass +having a strong fortress."</p> + +<p>"And what is the height of the wall, father?" asked +Leonard.</p> + +<p>"About twenty feet; and there are steps of brick +and stone for men on foot to ascend, and slanting places +for the cavalry."</p> + +<p>"I shall like to see Chinese soldiers," Leonard said. +"Did you ever see them at drill, father?"</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i-033.png" width="600" height="386" alt="CHINESE ARTILLERY-MEN, PEKING." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CHINESE ARTILLERY-MEN, PEKING.</span> +</div> + +<p>"I remember very well seeing a regiment of artillery +at gun-drill one day, but I believe there has been a new +armament of Chinese artillery since my time. I suppose<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span> +you know, children," then said Mr. Graham, "that +Peking ranks——"</p> + +<p>"For the number of its inhabitants," Sybil said +quickly, "as the second city in the world, only London +having more inhabitants, Paris about the same number."</p> + +<p>"Yes; and it has——"</p> + +<p>"About two million inhabitants."</p> + +<p>"Yes; and as Peking was built many centuries before +the Christian era, it is a very old city. The name +Peking means Court of the North. After the conquest +by the Tartars of the kingdom of Yen, of which +Peking was the capital, it became only a provincial +town, when, at the beginning of the fifteenth century, +it was again made the capital of China. The Chinese +sovereigns used to live at Nanking, but when the Tartars +had so often invaded the country, they removed to the +northern province, to enable them the more easily to +keep out the invaders."</p> + +<p>"On our Chinese umbrella that we had in the dining-room +fireplace at home," said Sybil, "there was, I remember, +a picture of Peking, and some water was close +by it, but I cannot remember what river Peking is on."</p> + +<p>"It is situated in a large sandy plain on the Tunghui, +a small tributary of the Peiho. This city is again divided +into the Chinese and Tartar cities, the Imperial +city, in which live the Emperor and his retainers, and +another in which the court officials have their residence.</p> + +<p>"Like all other Chinese cities, they are surrounded +by high walls. At the north, south, east, and west sides +of towns are large folding-gates, which are often further +secured by three inner gates. The one in the south is +that of honour, through which the Emperor passes, but +which is usually kept closed at other times.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i-035.png" width="600" height="373" alt="CIEAN-MUN, OR CHEAN-GATE AT PEKING." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CIEAN-MUN, OR CHEAN-GATE AT PEKING.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span></p> + +<p>"The wall of Peking, which is sixteen miles round, +has two gates on three sides and three on the other, of +which the principal is Chean-Mun, at the south of the +Tartar city. Over the gate is a building occupied by +soldiers, who are there for purposes of defence.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 287px;"> +<img src="images/i-036.png" width="287" height="500" alt="CHINESE SOLDIER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CHINESE SOLDIER.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i-037.png" width="600" height="380" alt="STREET OF HATA-MÈNE-TA-KIE, PEKING." title="" /> +<span class="caption">STREET OF HATA-<ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'MÊNE'">MÈNE</ins> -TA-KIE, PEKING.</span> +</div> + +<p>"The streets in Peking are very broad; we shall find +them much narrower in the south of China. They are +raised in the centre, and covered with a kind of stone, to +form a smooth, hard surface. In summer they are often, +I remember, very dusty, and during the rainy seasons +very dirty. At the end of each street is a wooden barrier,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span> +which is guarded day and night by soldiers. The +barrier is closed at nine o'clock at night, after which +time the Chinese are only allowed to pass through +if they have a very good reason to give for being out so +late.</p> + +<p>"Order is well kept in the streets of Peking by +the soldiers and police, who may use their whips on +troublesome customers whenever they think it necessary +to do so.</p> + +<p>"The principal streets, or main thoroughfares, extending +from one end of the city to the other, are its only +outlets. Trees grow in several of these streets. Houses, +in which the inhabitants live, are in smaller streets or +lanes, the houses themselves being often shut in by +walls.</p> + +<p>"Pagodas (which, you know, are temples to heathen +gods, built in the form of towers), monasteries, and +churchyards, are all outside the walls, and the city itself +is principally kept for purposes of commerce."</p> + +<p>"We know what pagodas are like," Leonard said, +"because we had two at home for ornaments. I think +we know many things through being so fortunate as +to have a father who has travelled."</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 424px;"> +<img src="images/i-039.png" width="424" height="600" alt="CHINESE BARBER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CHINESE BARBER.</span> +</div> + +<p>"There is a great noise in some of the streets," Mr. +Graham went on: "for instance, in the Hata-mène-ta-kie, +where many people are to be seen bustling about and +talking very loudly to one another. Tents are here put up +in which rice, fruit, and other things are sold, and any +one wishing for a pretty substantial meal can be supplied +with it in the Hata-mène-ta-kie, for before stoves stand +the vendors of such meals, who have cooked them ready +for purchasers. Other tradesmen carry hampers, slung +across their shoulders, in which they keep their goods,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span> +whilst they call out, from time to time, to let people +know what these hampers contain. Carts, horses, mules, +wheel-barrows, and sedan-chairs pass along, the whole +place seeming to be alive with buyers and sellers.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span> +The cobbler is sure to be somewhere close at hand in his +movable workshop, and first here and then there, as may +best suit himself and employers, the blacksmith pitches +his tent, which sometimes consists of a large umbrella; +whilst, again, people can refresh themselves, if they do +not care for a heavier meal, with some soup or a patty +at a soup stall.</p> + +<p>"And the barber does not forget that he is a very +useful person. There, in the open streets, he communicates, +by the tinkling of a little bell, the fact that he is +ready to shave the heads and arrange the cues or pig-tails +of those who may require his services; and as one man +after another takes the seat that has been put ready for +him, the barber not only shaves and plaits, but also +frequently paints his customer's eyebrows and gives his +clothes a brush."</p> + +<p>"Father, why do Chinamen wear pig-tails?" here +broke in Leonard, who, with Sybil, was very much interested +in what he heard.</p> + +<p>"After they were conquered by the Tartars they +were obliged to wear them, to show that they were in +subjection to their conquerors; but now the pig-tail is +held in honour, and the longer it will grow the better +pleased is the Chinese gentleman who wears it. Some +very bad criminals have their tails cut off as a great +punishment and disgrace.</p> + +<p>"Well, what should you like to hear now?" Mr. +Graham asked, after a little pause.</p> + +<p>"What Chinese shops are like, I think," said Sybil.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 339px;"> +<img src="images/i-041.png" width="339" height="600" alt="A SHOP IN PEKING." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A SHOP IN PEKING.</span> +</div> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 121px;"> +<img src="images/i-042.png" width="121" height="500" alt="SIGN-BOARD OF A CUSHION AND MATTING MANUFACTORY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SIGN-BOARD OF A CUSHION AND MATTING MANUFACTORY.</span> +</div> + +<p>"Most of those in China are quite open in front; +where we are going I suppose we shall see very few, if +any, shop-windows at all, but in Peking many of the +shops have glass windows. In China there are certain<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span> +streets for certain shops, where the different branches of +trade have generally their own sides of the road. A +shop is called a hong. Sometimes +the master sits outside, waiting for his +customers to arrive.</p> + + +<p>"At the door of each hong are +sign-boards, upon which are painted +in gold, or coloured letters, a motto +instead of a name, and what the shop +offers for sale.</p> + +<p>"I do not think," Mr. Graham +then said, drawing, as he spoke, a +little representation of a sign-board +out of his pocket-book, "that I ever +showed you this."</p> + +<p>"Oh no!" both the children +answered. "And what do those +characters mean?"</p> + +<p>On another piece of paper Mr. +Graham pointed out to them the +following interpretation:</p> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Interpretation"> +<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'><b>Teën</b></td></tr> +<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'><b>Yee</b></td></tr> +<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'><b>Shun</b></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Fung </td><td align='left'>Poo</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Seih </td><td align='left'>Tian</td></tr> +<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'><b>Tëen</b></td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p>"The three first large characters, +which form the motto, may be taken +to signify that 'Heaven favours the +prudent.' The other smaller characters designate +the nature of the business, a cushion and matting<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span> +manufactory; the last character, without which no sign-board +is complete, meaning shop or factory."</p> + +<p>"I shall like to see these sign-boards very much +when we get to China," Sybil said. "I should think they +must make the streets look very pretty."</p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i-043.png" width="600" height="325" alt="A TWO-WHEELED CART." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A TWO-WHEELED CART.</span> +</div> + +<p>Mr. Graham had illustrated several things which he +had told the children by some pictures which he had +brought on board with him.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i-044.png" width="500" height="325" alt="A YOUNG FARMER AND HIS PARENTS." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A YOUNG FARMER AND HIS PARENTS.</span> +</div> + +<p>Leonard was now looking again at that of Chean +Mun, or Chean Gate, for Mun means gate.</p> + +<p>"I have been noticing, father," he then said, "that +all the carts in this picture have only two wheels."</p> + +<p>"I never saw any in China with more," was the +answer. "Both shut and open carts (the latter being used +as carriages) have all two wheels. Those in common use +are made of wood, the body of the cart resting on an<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span> +axle-tree, supported by the wheels. Horses and mules +are very little used in China, except for travelling and +for conveying luggage long distances. I remember also +noticing that horses and ponies require very little guiding +in China. Sometimes they go without reins, when +their masters will perhaps walk beside them, carrying a +whip. I have also seen very polite drivers, who, whenever +they met a friend, jumped off their carts and walked +on foot to pass one another.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 524px;"> +<img src="images/i-045.png" width="524" height="500" alt="A CHINESE JUNK." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A CHINESE JUNK.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 399px;"> +<img src="images/i-046.png" width="399" height="600" alt="FLYING KITES." title="" /> +<span class="caption">FLYING KITES.</span> +</div> + +<p>"Government servants generally use ponies, but as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span> +China is so densely populated—having, it has been +estimated, about four hundred million inhabitants, and +people find it so hard to obtain enough to support themselves +and families—they keep as few beasts of burden as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span> +possible. The farmer employs the bullock a great deal, +and in the north of China the camel is also much used.</p> + +<p>"Much trade is carried on by boats, and where there +is no water, and farmers are without other conveyances, +they will sometimes push their wives along the roads in +wheel-barrows, sons giving their parents similar drives. +There are but few carriage-roads in many parts of China."</p> + +<p>"I wonder the Chinese do not make more, then," +said Leonard.</p> + +<p>"They cannot afford to do so, because to make them +bread-producing land would have to be done away +with."</p> + +<p>"What a number of rivers and bays there are in +China!" said Sybil, who was again examining her map. +"And I see the Great Wall crosses the Hwang-ho."</p> + +<p>"And that's the fifth largest river in the world," +Leonard answered. "Only the Amazon, Mississippi, +Nile, and Yantze-kiang are larger; and the Grand Canal +in China is the very largest canal in the world."</p> + +<p>"I learnt once, too, that Hwang-ho meant 'Chinese +sorrow.' Why is it called that?"</p> + +<p>"Because it has altered its course, which has caused +great loss and inconvenience to the Chinese."</p> + +<p>"And what does 'Yantze-kiang' mean?"</p> + +<p>"The son that spreads; this is their favourite river."</p> + +<p>Geography was one of Leonard's favourite studies.</p> + +<p>"Why do so many Chinese rivers end in ho and +kiang?" he then asked, looking over Sybil's map.</p> + +<p>"Both words mean river—the Yantze and the +Hwang rivers. And the Chinese have all kinds of boats +for use on their rivers. Here, my boy, is a picture of a +Chinese junk. Look at it well, and see if you can discover +anything peculiar about it."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span></p> + +<p>Leonard looked for some time. "It has sails," he +answered, "like butterflies' wings."</p> + +<p>"Yes; that is how the Chinese make many of their +sails."</p> + +<p>"But the kites are what I want to see so much," said +Leonard, as though the sails had reminded him of them +again. "What are the most peculiar of them like?"</p> + +<p>"Like birds, insects, animals, clusters of birds, gods +on clouds: all kinds of things, in fact, are represented by +these kites, which the Chinese are most clever in making, +and also in flying. I have seen old men, of about seventy +years of age, thoroughly enjoying flying their kites. The +Chinese do not care much for your, and my, favourite +games, Leonard: cricket and football."</p> + +<p>"What games do they like?"</p> + +<p>"They are very fond of battledore and shuttlecock, +but instead of using a battledore they hit the shuttlecock +with their heads, elbows, or feet. Seven or eight +children play together, and nearly always aim the shuttlecock +rightly. Girls play at this game too, in spite of +their small feet. Tops, balls, see-saws, and quoits are +also favourite toys and games amongst the Chinese."</p> + +<p>"I remember," Sybil said, "a girl at school having +a Chinese shuttlecock, and that was like a bird."</p> + +<p>"Well, father, go on, please. What other amusements +have they?" asked Leonard.</p> + +<p>"Puppet-shows for one thing I remember, which +they exhibit in the streets, as we do 'Punch and +Judy.' The pictures in these shows are exhibited by +means of strings, which are either worked from behind +or from above the stand, and as the people look through +a glass, the views are displayed to them. A man +standing at the side calls out loudly, and beats a little<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span> +gong to summon people to attend the show. And now +I think, as I am rather tired for to-day, I shall beat a +little gong to dismiss you from the show," Mr. Graham +said, smiling, as he turned towards his children, who +never seemed to grow tired of listening.</p> + +<p>"Very well, father; we will go now, and let you rest," +Sybil replied, standing up. "Thank you so much. +To-morrow, you know, we shall come to the show again, +so please remember to sound the gong in good time." +And off they bounded, leaving Mr. Graham at liberty +to go and seek his wife, who was then lying down in her +cabin.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 266px;"> +<img src="images/i-049.png" width="266" height="500" alt="Decoration: Man" title="" /> +</div><hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i-050a.png" width="500" height="187" alt="Decoration: Road" title="" /> +</div> + + + +<h2>CHAPTER III.</h2> + +<div class='chaptertitle'>THE RELIGIONS OF CHINA.</div> + + +<div class="figright" style="width: 291px;"> +<img src="images/i-050b.png" width="291" height="300" alt="LI-HUNG." title="" /> +<span class="caption">LI-HUNG.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 89px;"> +<img src="images/i-050c-w.png" width="89" height="70" alt=""W" title="" /> +</div><div class='unindent'>ILL you please +tell us to-day, +father, something +about the religion +of the Chinese? I know +they worship idols, but +how do they believe in +them?" Sybil asked, as +soon as their "Peep-show," +as the children +continued to call their +father's stories, began the +next afternoon. During the morning she had sat and +read to her mother, who still felt the motion of the +vessel very much, and had therefore to lie down part of +the day.</div> + +<p>"I will try to do so," was the answer; "but I think +what you hear may puzzle you a good deal, for they have +very strange creeds."</p> + +<p>"Did grandfather make many converts?"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Very few indeed; but then he was one of our very +first missionaries to Peking, so was most thankful for +the very little which he was enabled to do.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 425px;"> +<img src="images/i-051.png" width="425" height="550" alt="A CITIZEN OF TIENT-SIN." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A CITIZEN OF TIENT-SIN.</span> +</div> + +<p>"I remember two men for whose conversion from +Buddhism he often gave thanks. One was a citizen of +Tientsin, where we landed on our way to the capital.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span></p> + +<p>"This good fellow, who was then a very questionable +character, was smoking his pipe in a most indifferent +manner, when my father, through his teacher, first addressed +him. Missionaries in China, you know, have +teachers of the dialects."</p> + +<p>"Shall you have one?"</p> + +<p>"Of course. Well, this man would not listen at all +at first, and was very angry at my father's interference; +but after a while we met him again at Peking, and in +time both he and his wife learnt to believe, and to long +for Christian baptism, before receiving which they not +only left off worshipping their family idols, but even +destroyed them. A short time ago I heard that this +man had become a native lay teacher, and was a +great help to the mission, as he could, of course, +always make himself understood to his own countrymen, +who were also not unlikely to be won by his +example."</p> + +<p>"What was his name?" asked Leonard.</p> + +<p>"Tung-Sean."</p> + +<p>"And that of the other convert?"</p> + +<p>"Li-Hung. He was a much older man, and was +sitting, I remember, the day we first saw him, in a field, +resting from his work, and as he caught sight of my +father he began to call him all sorts of names, amongst +which was to be heard very often that of 'foreign devil.' +I believe he even looked for stones to throw at us. +Your grandfather—always a very quiet, self-possessed +man—just dropped some tracts at his side, translated into +Chinese. We often saw Li-Hung again, and though he +gave us much trouble, a month before my father died he +had the happiness also of witnessing this man's conversion +to the true faith."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Grandfather must have been very pleased," Sybil +said.</p> + +<p>"He was; but I think now I have something rather +interesting to tell you of our journey from Tientsin to +Peking. We went in carts drawn by two mules, one in +front of the other, and at night we slept at inns, where, +I think, you would like to hear about our sleeping accommodation. +It was winter, and as the Peking winter +is cold, people there, to make themselves warm at night, +sleep on kangs. As these were different at both inns to +which we went, I will tell you about both.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i-053.png" width="500" height="223" alt="A KANG." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A KANG.</span> +</div> + +<p>"In one the kang consisted of a platform built of +brick, so much larger than a bed that several people could +sleep on it at once. A kind of tunnel passed through the +platform, which had a chimney at one end, whilst at the +other end, a little while before bed-time, a small quantity +of dry fuel was set on fire, when the flame passed +through the tunnel and out of the chimney. In this +way the kang was warmed, when felt matting was put +upon it. Here we lay down, and were covered over +with a kind of cotton-wool counterpane.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i-054.png" width="600" height="361" alt="BOATS ON THE RIVER PEI-HO AT TIENT-SIN." title="" /> +<span class="caption">BOATS ON THE RIVER PEI-HO AT TIENT-SIN.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span></p> + +<p>"The kang in the other inn was warmed by a little +stove from underneath, which also served in the day-time +for cooking purposes, when the bed-clothes were +removed from the kang, on which mats, and even little +tables, were also sometimes put, until it became a sofa; so +it was very useful."</p> + +<p>The children laughed.</p> + +<p>"We are not hearing about the religion yet, though," +Sybil said.</p> + +<p>"Oh, do let us hear just a little more about Peking +and Tientsin first," Leonard answered. "How far is +Tientsin from the capital?"</p> + +<p>"Eighty miles. And do you know what river it is +on?"</p> + +<p>Leonard considered. "It must be an important +one, I should think, as it carries things, doesn't it, from +the sea-coast to near to Peking?"</p> + +<p>"It is only a river of secondary importance, but the +principal one of the province of Pe-chili. Now for its +name." Sybil referred to her map.</p> + +<p>"The Pei-ho, of course," they exclaimed together. +"And I suppose there is ever so much traffic on it?" +Leonard said; "with no end of ships to be seen?"</p> + +<p>"Yes, a good many may be seen there. I have a +picture of boats on the River Pei-ho."</p> + +<p>"What sort of flags do Chinese boats have, father? +I do not see any hoisted here."</p> + +<p>"The Imperial Navy is divided into river and sea-going +vessels, the former consisting of 1,900 ships, the +latter of 918; and there are 188,000 sailors. Ships in the +Imperial Navy generally fly a flag at the main, on which +red lines are drawn, or sometimes a tri-colour is hoisted +there instead. Red would, I suppose, be for safety, as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span> +this is the 'lucky' colour of the Chinese. At the stern +of the vessel I remember seeing the name of the official +who directs and superintends the ship."</p> + +<p>"Isn't Tientsin noted for something?" Sybil then +asked.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 264px;"> +<img src="images/i-056.png" width="264" height="400" alt="MINISTER OF FOREIGN AFFAIRS." title="" /> +<span class="caption">MINISTER OF FOREIGN AFFAIRS.</span> +</div> + +<p>"Yes; for the treaty of June 26th, 1858, between the +Chinese and British, some of the terms of which were that +the Christian religion should be protected by Chinese +authorities, that British subjects should be allowed to +travel in the country for pleasure or business, under +passports issued by their consul, and that the Queen +might acquire a building site at Peking."</p> + +<p>"But now the religion, please, father," she said +again.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Very well; but you must pay great attention to what +I say, or you will not understand. Most of the Chinese +are either Confucianists, Buddhists, or Taouists, although +there are also Jews and Mahometans amongst +them. At one time it is supposed that the people of +China had really a knowledge of the true God, and +that when they worshipped, in much the same sort of +manner as did the patriarchs, Him whom they call +Wang-teen, or Shang-ti, which means Supreme Ruler, +they worshipped God.</p> + +<p>"But mixing with this an idolatrous worship of +departed ancestors, they nearly lost sight of the Supreme +Ruler, the jealous God, Who, we know, claims all our +worship.</p> + +<p>"About the latter half of the sixth century before +Christ, Confucius, a great and clever philosopher of +China, who was born 551 <span class="smcap">b.c.</span>, wrote and put together +books that held very moral and good maxims, afterwards +called 'The Classics.'</p> + +<p>"He taught that men must always be obedient to +those to whom they are in subjection: people to prince, +child to parent, filial piety being enforced before every +other duty. He was very anxious to improve the +manners of the people; but women he ranked very +low. Confucianism is—but perhaps you will not understand +this—more a philosophy than a religion. Its +followers have no particular form of worship, and no +priesthood. The Pearly Emperor, Supreme Ruler, is +their deity, but worship is seldom offered to him, and +then only by a few.</p> + +<p>"Although Confucius disapproved very much of idols, +after he was dead many of his followers worshipped +him.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 383px;"> +<img src="images/i-058.png" width="383" height="500" alt="A MANDARIN." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A MANDARIN.</span> +</div> + +<p>"Confucianists do not believe in a future state of +rewards and punishments, but think that their good +and bad deeds will be rewarded here by riches or +poverty, long or short life, good or bad health. Conscience<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span> +is to lead people aright, and tell them when they +do wrong.</p> + +<p>"The high mandarins and literary people are +generally Confucianists; school-boys also worship an idol +or tablet of the sage, in which his spirit is supposed +to dwell.</p> + +<p>"There is a temple to the honour of 'The Great +Teacher' in every large town; and on great occasions, +and always in spring-time and autumn, sacrifices are +here offered, the Emperor himself, as high priest, presiding +at these two ceremonies in Peking, the chief +mandarins of his court giving him assistance. In +temples of Confucius idols are very seldom to be seen.</p> + +<p>"The Confucianists are taught that man was originally +good, his nature being given by heaven, and that sin +came through union of the soul with matter."</p> + +<p>"What are mandarins, please, father?" asked +Leonard.</p> + +<p>"Chinese officials, of which there are many grades, +and many in each grade, all of whom are paid by +Government. To every province there is a viceroy, to +every city a governor, and to the village a mandarin, who +is elected to rule over it for three years; and all these, +again, have many officers under them. There are also a +great many military mandarins. A great mark of +imperial favour is to allow mandarins, civil or military, +to wear a peacock's feather in their caps, which hangs +down over the back, and the ball placed on the top +shows, by its colour and material, the rank of the wearer. +Soldiers fighting very bravely are often buoyed up with +the hope of receiving one of these feathers.</p> + +<p>"Mandarins, who stand in a sort of fatherly relationship +towards their people, although they do not always<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span> +behave like fathers towards them, look for implicit +obedience from them."</p> + +<p>"Can a mandarin be punished when he does +wrong?" Leonard asked. "And what sort of dress does +he wear?"</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/i-060.png" width="450" height="450" alt="A MANDARIN WITH PEACOCK'S FEATHER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A MANDARIN WITH PEACOCK'S FEATHER.</span> +</div> + +<p>"He can be punished when he does wrong; and as well +as I can remember, those mandarins that I saw, who +were in high office, wore a long, loose robe of blue +silk, embroidered with gold threads. This reached to +their ankles, being fastened round their waists with a +belt. Over this was a violet tunic, coming just below +the knees, which had very wide, long sleeves, usually +worn turned back, but if not, hanging over the hands."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Will you please go on about the religion now, +father?" Sybil then said. "You had just told us that +the Confucianists were taught that man was made +good."</p> + +<p>"Yes; and their worship is paid almost entirely to +their ancestors, which worship they look upon as a continuation +of the reverence they had been taught to show +them while on earth. I will tell you more about ancestral +worship presently.</p> + +<p>"Many people, as you can well understand, were not +satisfied with Confucianism as a religion, as it could +not satisfy their spiritual wants, especially as the Pearly +Emperor, or Supreme Ruler, generally looked upon as the +highest divinity worshipped by the Chinese, might +only be approached by the Emperor and his court; +so another sect sprang up, having a philosopher +named La-outze, who was born 604 <span class="smcap">b.c.</span>, for its +founder. He thought that to grow perfect he must +seclude himself from other people, and in his retirement +was always looking for the Taou-le, the meaning of which +you will hardly understand—the cause or the end of +all things. His followers are called Taouists. This +philosopher says in his book that 'it is by stillness, and +contemplation, and union with Taou, that virtue is to be +achieved'—Taou here meaning a principle and a way. +He said that virtue consisted in losing sight of oneself, +and that man should love even his enemies, and go +through life as if none of his possessions belonged to +himself. The Taouists say that 'Taou is without substance, +and eternal, and the universe coming from him exists in +the silent presence of Taou everywhere,' and that only +those who become very virtuous are happy.</p> + +<p>"La-outze is now worshipped by the Taouists as the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span> +third of a trinity of persons, called 'The Three Pure +Ones.'</p> + +<p>"He is said, when born, to have had long white hair, +and is therefore represented as an old man, and called +'old boy.' The Chinese assert that his mother was fed +with food from heaven, and that when he was born he +jumped up into the air, and said, as he pointed with his left +hand to heaven and his right hand to the earth, 'Heaven +above, earth beneath: only Taou is honourable.' The +Taouist trinity are supposed to live in the highest heaven; +and Taouists used to spend a great deal of time in seeking +for a drink that they thought would make them live +for ever. Subduing evil is by some of them supposed +to secure immortality to the soul.</p> + +<p>"Their priests are often very ignorant men, but +they are believed in by the people, and are employed +by them to perform superstitious rites."</p> + +<p>"Oh, father! Isn't it a dreadful pity that they +should believe so many things like Christians, even in +a trinity, and the duty of loving one's enemies, and only +be heathens after all?"</p> + +<p>"It is indeed; but the more we see of heathens, +Sybil, the more we shall notice how they cannot help +feeling after truth and grasping some parts of it, which +seem as though they were a very necessity to religion. +These Taouist priests are often called in by the people +to exorcise, or drive away, evil spirits, to cure sick people +and commune with the dead."</p> + +<p>"Oh, father! I do so like this Peep-show. Please +tell us now about the people of the other sect."</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 343px;"> +<img src="images/i-063.png" width="343" height="600" alt="A BUDDHIST PRIEST." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A BUDDHIST PRIEST.</span> +</div> + +<p>"They are the Buddhists, who also worship a +trinity; indeed, Taouists are thought to have taken +that idea from them. As early as 250 <span class="smcap">b.c.</span> Buddhist<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span> +missionaries came over from India to China, but the +religion did not really take root until an emperor named +Hing, of the Han dynasty, introduced it, in the first century +of the Christian era, about 66 <span class="smcap">a.d.</span> This emperor +is said to have seen in a dream, in the year of our Lord +61, an image of a foreign god coming into his palace, +and in consequence he was advised to adopt the religion of +Buddha, when he sent to India for an idol and some +priests. Towards the end of the thirteenth century +there were more than 4,200 Buddhist temples in China, +and more than 213,000 monks. The Buddhist trinity +is called Pihte, or the Three Precious Ones: Buddha Past, +Buddha Present, and Buddha Future, and dreadfully ugly +idols they are. The Buddhist's idea of heaven is Nirvâna, +or rest, or more properly speaking, extinction. The +Chinese Buddhist thinks that a man possesses three souls or +spirits, one of which accompanies the body to the grave, +another passes into his ancestral tablet to be worshipped, +and the third enters into one, or all, of the ten kingdoms +of the Buddhistic hell, into which people pass after death, +there to receive punishments according to the lives they +have led upon earth. From the tenth kingdom they +pass back to earth, to inhabit the form of a man, beast, +bird, or insect, as they may have deserved, unless during +life a man has attained to a certain state of perfection, +when he mounts to the highest heaven, and perhaps +becomes a god or buddha. But even from the Western +Paradise a spirit has sometimes to return to earth. +Should a man have been good in all the various lives +that he has lived, he is supposed to attain, I believe, to +this Nirvâna, or extinction."</p> + +<p>"What a wonderful belief!" Sybil said. "So they +cannot believe at all in the immortality of the soul?"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span></p> + +<p>"No, they do not."</p> + +<p>"I should like to see a Buddhist priest very much," +Leonard said.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 449px;"> +<img src="images/i-065.png" width="449" height="450" alt="ENTRANCE TO A BUDDHIST MONASTERY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ENTRANCE TO A BUDDHIST MONASTERY.</span> +</div> + +<p>"I dare say you will see a good many when you get +to China. They live together in monasteries, sometimes +in great numbers, and these monasteries are prettily +situated, surrounded by lakes and gardens. They consist +of a number of small buildings, to the principal of +which is a large entrance, that has inscriptions on either +side of the gateway."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i-066.png" width="600" height="352" alt="A MONASTERY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A MONASTERY.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Are the priests very good men?" asked Leonard.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i-067.png" width="400" height="377" alt="A GONG." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A GONG.</span> +</div> + +<p>"Very often, I am afraid, just the reverse; but this +is not to be wondered at, for criminals in China, to escape +from justice, will sometimes shave their heads, and seek refuge +by becoming Buddhist priests. When they take their +vows—some taking nine, some twelve—for each one a cut +is made in their arms to help them to remember it. Some +of the vows resemble the commandments setting forth +our duty towards our neighbour. A Buddhist priest, in +China, wears a wide turn-over collar; when he officiates +he often dresses in a yellow robe made of silk or cotton,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span> +but he is only allowed to wear silk when he does +officiate. At other times his garments are of white or +ash colour, or he wears a long, grey cowl with flowing +sleeves. Buddhist priests shave all their hair two or +three times a month. They think it is of great use to +repeat their classics very often to the gods, and keep an +account of the number of times they say them on their +beads. I fancy they use brooms wherewith to sprinkle +holy water. There are four special commandments for +Buddhists, both priests and people: not to destroy animal +life, not to steal, not to speak falsely, and not to drink +wine. In monasteries the refectories of the priests are +very large, and they have all to sit at dinner, so that +the abbot, who is at their head, can see their faces. +They are called to breakfast and dinner by a gong, +where they have to appear in their cowls. Gongs are +very much used in China, and are to be seen at all the +temples. When the priest, who presides, comes in, they +all rise, and putting their hands together, say grace. +After the food has been so blessed, some is put outside +as an offering to the fowls of the air. During dinner +the priests may not speak, and on the walls of the +refectory are boards, on which are written warnings, +such as not to eat too quickly; also the rules of the +monastery."</p> + +<p>"That would not have done for you, Leonard, when +you thought you would be late for school, and gobbled +your dinner anyhow," said Sybil.</p> + +<p>"How many gods have the Chinese?" asked +Leonard.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i-069.png" width="600" height="358" alt="WORSHIP IN A LAMASARY, BUDDHIST TEMPLE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">WORSHIP IN A LAMASARY, BUDDHIST TEMPLE.</span> +</div> + +<p>"So many that it would be impossible to say, and +the Celestials (as the Chinese are often called, from +naming their country the Celestial Land) are not<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span> +particular how they worship them; Taouists, for instance, +worshipping those who are peculiarly Buddhist divinities, +and Buddhists invoking, in return, their gods. Indeed, +the three religions have so borrowed from one another, +and people have believed so much as they liked, that +the Chinese themselves often do not know to which +religion they belong, and are either all or none, pretty +well as they choose. The Buddhism of China is not +at all the pure Buddhism, and has been much corrupted +by its professors."</p> + +<p>"Who was the founder of Buddhism?"</p> + +<p>"An Indian prince, of beautiful character, born +620 <span class="smcap">b.c.</span>, and called Shâkyamuni Buddha, who left +wealth and luxury to go about relieving suffering +wherever he found it. After he died his followers +believed that he was transformed into a god, having +three different forms."</p> + +<p>"Tell us some of the gods, please."</p> + +<p>"A god of rain; a god of wind; a god of thunder; +a god of wealth, the latter worshipped very much by +tradesmen; a god of thieves; a goddess of thunder; a +guardian goddess of women and little children, called +Kum-fa, whose ten attendants watch over children, helping +them to eat, and teaching them to smile and walk; +a god of wine; a god of fire; a goddess of mercy; a +goddess of sailors; a goddess of children, called 'Mother'; +a god of the kitchen; a god of measles, a god of small-pox. +Then the Confucianists worship two stars, who +are supposed to look after literature and drawing, the +former called the god of literature. And besides household +gods belonging to every family, there are a god of +the passing year, and numerous others. Many of the +gods are deified persons who once lived on earth."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i-071.png" width="600" height="350" alt="TEMPLE OF THE MOON, PEKING." title="" /> +<span class="caption">TEMPLE OF THE MOON, PEKING.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span></p> + +<p>"What a number!" Sybil said. "But who, then, is +the great Lama? You have not told us anything about +him yet, and I heard you speaking about him the other +day."</p> + +<p>"There is another form of Buddhism, called Lamaism, +and this, though it prevails principally in Thibet and +Mongolia, has also its followers in Peking. The Great +Lama, or Living Buddha, is the head of this."</p> + +<p>"And he is a living man?"</p> + +<p>"Yes; but his soul is said never to die; therefore, +when he dies it is supposed to pass into an infant whom +the priests select by a likeness that they trace to the late +Lama. I one day saw worship going on in a Lama +temple."</p> + +<p>"Have you a picture of it, father?" Leonard asked, +who was getting a little tired of these descriptions, which +Sybil liked so much.</p> + +<p>"Yes, and I think it a very good one. In the centre, +facing the worshippers, is a very large idol indeed of +Buddha. To the right and left of the temple are smaller +idols. Some gods in temples do not receive worship, but +guard the doors. Incense is burning in front; the high +priest, to the right, is lifting up his hands in adoration, +whilst the people offer scented rods and tapers to +Buddha. As they light their offerings they kow-tow, +or hit their heads upon the floor. This is the Chinese +way of reverent, respectful salutation. The devotees +are grouped in squares.</p> + +<p>"Then I forgot to tell you that the Sun and Moon are +also worshipped. Whilst in Peking, I went to a temple +of the Moon. It was on the day of the autumnal equinox, +when, at six o'clock in the evening, a very solemn sacrifice +is offered, and the great ladies of the capital meet<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span> +to burn their tapers. I approached this temple by a long +avenue of beautiful trees. The temple was large; but I +noticed that more women than men had come to attend +the ceremonies."</p> + +<p>"I thought the Chinese were clever people," Sybil +said; "if so, how can they believe in so many gods?"</p> + +<p>"They have been trained to do so. They feel, I +suppose, that they must offer worship, and until a real +knowledge of the true God can be planted in their midst, +they will remain slaves to idolatry. Many of the more +enlightened heathen, I believe, only regard their idols +as representations of the Deity they are feeling after, +and not really as the Deity Himself; although I fear +many of the simpler sort, in different degrees, regard +their idols with great religious awe. Then, many a +Chinaman, again, will so often seem to have no religion +at all!"</p> + +<p>"Is it very difficult to teach the Chinese, father?"</p> + +<p>"It is very difficult to find words, in their language, +clearly to bring home to them the great truths of the +Bible; and Confucius having for nearly twenty centuries +held such a sway over their minds, they do not care to +listen to new teachers."</p> + +<p>"I am so glad the Bible is now translated into +Chinese, and that you are taking some copies out with +you. But how old these people must be!"</p> + +<p>"The Chinese are a very ancient race, and had a +literature 700 years before Christ. They are very fond +and proud of their country."</p> + +<p>"Do Taouists and Buddhists believe in, and read, the +writings of Confucius?"</p> + +<p>"To a great extent."</p> + +<p>"And are there many Christians in China now?"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span></p> + +<p>"The Church Missionary Society, at her six chief +stations of Hong-Kong, Foo-Chow, Ningpo, Hang-Chow, +Shaou-hing, and Shanghai, now numbers 4,667 +native followers, and 1,702 communicants, of whom +nine are native clergymen and 174 native Christian +teachers. In China altogether there are 40,000 Christian +adherents. But what are these, when we think +that this vast empire alone contains 400,000,000 people, +one-third of the human race?"</p> + +<p>"They will listen to you, father," Sybil said, looking +up very brightly. Sybil was a child who thought that +there was nobody, except her own mother, in the whole +world to compare with her father.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i-074.png" width="500" height="151" alt="Decoration: Landscape" title="" /> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span></p> + + + + +<div><img src="images/i-075a1.png" width="600" height="165" alt="Decoration" title="" class="splitlt" /> +<img src="images/i-075a2.png" width="211" height="228" alt="Decoration" title="" class="splitlb" /> +</div> + + + + +<div class='chapternumber'><br /><br />CHAPTER IV.<br /><br /></div> + +<div class='chaptertitle'>CHINESE CHILDHOOD.</div> + + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 45px;"> + +</div><div class='unindent'><img src="images/i-075b-i.png" width="45" height="68" alt=""I" title="" /> FORGOT to ask you, father," +Leonard said, about a week +later—for during that time +he and his sister had been otherwise +engaged, and had therefore not come to hear +anything more about the Chinese and their strange +doings—"I forgot to ask you if Celestial boys wore pig-tails +too. I have never, I believe, seen a picture of a +Chinese boy."</div> + +<p>"Some have pig-tails, but some parents allow just a +tuft of hair to grow on a boy's head until he is eight or +ten years old, and shave the rest. Sometimes he wears +the tuft longer; and I have also seen girls wearing it +on one or both sides of their heads."</p> + +<p>"Father, will you tell us something now about +the children?" Sybil then asked.</p> + +<p>"I know little babies of three days old often have +their wrists tied with red cotton cord, to which a charm +is hung, which is, I suppose, to bring it prosperity or drive +away from it evil spirits. At a month old its head is +shaved for the first time, when, if its mother does not +shave it, a hair-dresser has to wear red in which to do it.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span> +A boy is shaved before the ancestral tablet, but a girl +before an image of the goddess of children called +'Mother,' and thank-offerings are on this day presented +to the goddess."</p> + +<p>"What does the ancestral tablet mean?"</p> + +<p>"It consists of a piece of wood or stone, which is +meant to represent the dead. As I told you, one of the +spirits of a dead man is supposed to enter the tablet, and +the more this is worshipped the happier the spirit is supposed +to be. On this tablet are names and inscriptions, +which sometimes represent several ancestors. After a +certain time (I think the fifth generation) the tablet is +no longer worshipped, as by that time the spirit is supposed +to have passed into another body."</p> + +<p>"Thank you. I understand that now," Sybil said. +"Does anything else happen on the grand shaving +day?"</p> + +<p>"Presents of painted ducks' eggs, cakes, and other +things are sent to the baby, and when it is four months +old 'Mother' is thanked again, and prayed to make +the child grow fast, sleep well, and be good-tempered." +Sybil and Leonard laughed. "On this day the +child also sits for the first time in a chair, when his +grandmother, his mother's mother, who has to give him +a great many presents, sends him some soft kind of +sugar-candy, which is put upon the chair, and when this +has stuck the baby is put upon it, and I suppose his +clothes then stick to it also."</p> + +<p>"What a fashion to learn to sit in a chair!" Leonard +said. "And what's done on his first birthday?"</p> + +<p>"Another thank-offering is presented to 'Mother,' +more presents come, and the baby has to sit in front of a +number of things, such as ink, pens, scales, pencils, tools,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span> +books, fruit, gold, or anything the parents like to arrange +before him, and whatever he catches hold of first will +show them what his future character or occupation is +likely to be.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 332px;"> +<img src="images/i-077.png" width="332" height="450" alt="YUEN-SHUH, A LITTLE STUDENT." title="" /> +<span class="caption">YUEN-SHUH, A LITTLE STUDENT.</span> +</div> + +<p>"But the worst part has now to come. As soon as +the poor little fellow can learn anything, he is taught to +worship 'Mother' and other idols, before which he has +to bow down, and raise up his little hands, whilst candles +and incense are burnt in their honour. So it is no wonder +that as he grows older he learns his lesson thoroughly. +At sixteen children are supposed to leave childhood behind +them, and there is a ceremony for this."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Do Chinese girls learn lessons? or is it only the +boys?"</p> + +<p>"In some parts of China there are, I believe, a few +schools for young ladies, and instruction is given to +them by tutors at home; but although two or three +Chinese ladies have been celebrated for great literary +attainments, these are quite the exceptions, and there +are only a very few schools for any girls in China, +except the mission schools. Those for boys abound all +over the country."</p> + +<p>"Did you ever go into a boy's school, father?"</p> + +<p>"Yes, into several, where I saw many a little +intelligent-looking boy working very hard at his lessons. +One little boy, named Yuen-Shuh, told me that he +meant to get all the literary honours that he could. +Chinese boys are not allowed to talk at all in school-hours. +Each boy has a desk at which to sit, which +is so arranged that he cannot speak to the boy next to +him. Little Yuen-Shuh had been to school since he +was six years old.</p> + +<p>"Another boy was saying a lesson when I went in, +and therefore standing with his back to his teacher. +Boys always say their lessons like this, and it is called +'backing the book.' The teacher, as they repeat their +lessons, puts down their marks. When learning their +lessons they repeat them aloud. There are higher schools +into which older boys pass, and the great aim of the +Chinese is to take literary honours, as nothing else can +give them a position of high rank; but even a peasant +taking these honours would rank as a gentleman."</p> + +<p>"Will you take me to see a school in China?" +Leonard then asked.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i-079.png" width="600" height="331" alt="A CHINESE SCHOOL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A CHINESE SCHOOL.</span> +</div> + +<p>His father, having promised to do so, went on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span> +to say to Leonard: "Parents are very particular as to +their choice of a schoolmaster, who must be considered +good, as well as able to teach; and to qualify himself +the master must, of course, know the doctrines of +the ancient sages. After all has been settled for a +boy to go to school, the parents always invite the +schoolmaster to a dinner, given expressly for him. +Then a fortune-teller is asked to decide upon a 'lucky' +day for the boy to make his first appearance at school, +when he takes the tutor a present. No boy ever goes +to school first on the anniversary of the day on which +Confucius died or was buried. On entering school, he +turns to the shrine of Confucius—an altar erected to +his honour in every school—and worships him, after +which he salutes his teacher very respectfully, hears +what he has to do, and goes to his desk."</p> + +<p>"And are there many holidays at Chinese schools?"</p> + +<p>"At the new year and in the autumn there are +always holidays, but children also go home to keep all +religious festivals, to celebrate the birthdays of parents +and grandparents, to worship their tablets, and at the +tombs of ancestors. Very often schoolmasters are men +who have toiled very hard at their books, and yet have +not succeeded in taking a very high degree, but +sometimes having done so, they choose teaching for +their profession. Children are very much punished in +China when they break school-rules. Perhaps the +punishment they fear most is to be beaten with a +broom, because they think that this may make them +unlucky for the <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'r st'">rest</ins> of their lives."</p> + +<p>"And they can never have an alphabet to learn," +Sybil said, "when they first go to school, as there is not +one."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 353px;"> +<img src="images/i-081.png" width="353" height="550" alt="A VILLAGE SCHOOLMASTER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A VILLAGE SCHOOLMASTER.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span></p> + +<p>"No; instead of letters and words, they have to learn, +and master, characters. In some schools children learn +names first; in others they have reading lessons, where +all the sentences consist of three characters. As soon +as possible they are set to learn the classic on 'Filial +Piety.'"</p> + +<p>"Now, father, will you please describe a Chinese +house to us?"</p> + +<p>"Those of the richer classes are surrounded by a +high wall, and composed of a number of rooms, generally +on one floor. In large cities some houses have another +storey; but the Chinese think it 'unlucky' to live above +ground."</p> + +<p>"The Chinese seem to think everything either lucky +or unlucky," Sybil said; "it does seem silly. I do not +wonder that you always told me not to say that word. +I don't think I shall ever want to say it again now; and +I used to say it rather often, usen't I? But I did not +mean to interrupt you, so please go on now."</p> + +<p>"Some houses are very large, which they have to be, +in order to accommodate several branches of the same +family, who often live together in different parts of +them.</p> + +<p>"There are generally three doors of entrance to a +house, of which the principal, in the centre, leads to the +reception hall, into which visitors are shown. I have +seen the walls of rooms hung with white silk or +satin, on which sentences of good advice were written. +All sorts of beautiful lanterns hang from the sitting-room +ceilings, sometimes by silk cords. The furniture consists +principally of chairs, tables, pretty screens and cabinets, +with many porcelain ornaments, and fans are very +numerous in a Chinese household. Most houses have<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span> +very beautiful gardens; even the poor try to have their +houses surrounded by as much ground as possible. Many +houses also have verandahs, where the Chinaman likes to +smoke his evening pipe. Indeed, women, even ladies, +smoke pipes in China. I have a picture of a verandah +scene in the south of China."</p> + +<p>"Are these people rich or poor?" Sybil asked.</p> + +<p>"Certainly not rich, but also not very poor."</p> + +<p>"You were saying the other day, father, that +Chinese people smoke something else besides tobacco?" +Leonard then asked.</p> + +<p>"Opium."</p> + +<p>"What is opium?"</p> + +<p>"The juice of the poppy, which, after being made +into a solid form, is boiled down with water."</p> + +<p>"Why did you say that opium-smoking was so +dreadful?"</p> + +<p>"You shall hear all about it, and then judge for yourself. +The opium-smoker, whilst engaged with his pipe, +thinks of, and cares for, nothing else in the whole world +besides, and generally lies down to give himself up to +its more full enjoyment. Holding his pipe over the +flame of a small oil-lamp beside him, he lights the opium, +and then gently draws in the vapour which proceeds +from it. Sometimes people smoke in their own houses, +and sometimes they resort to horrid places regularly set +apart for opium-smoking. In Hong-Kong, where we are +going, there will be many an opium-smoker who will +buy this drug in quantities when he cannot even afford +to purchase clothing.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 379px;"> +<img src="images/i-084.png" width="379" height="600" alt="FAMILY SCENE—AFTER DINNER" title="" /> +<span class="caption">FAMILY SCENE—AFTER DINNER</span> +</div> + +<p>"If a man make a practice of smoking opium at +stated times, even should these times not be very frequent, +he so acquires the habit of smoking, that if, when the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span> +pipe be due it is not forthcoming, he is quite unable to do +his work, and wastes all his time thinking of and longing +for his pipe. The habit is sometimes acquired in less +than a fortnight. Opium may first be taken in a small +quantity to cure toothache; the small quantity leads to +large quantities; the large quantities, or even small ones +taken regularly, lead at last to the man becoming an +habitual opium-smoker: and this means that the victim's +health becomes injured, and that he is unfit for any +work. If he then leave off his opium, he becomes ill, has +dreadful pain, which sometimes lasts till he smokes again; +he has no appetite for food, cannot sleep at night, and +looks haggard and miserable. Sometimes if opium cannot be procured +by him he dies.</p> + +<p>"And these men make themselves slaves for life to +this horrid drug, knowing before they touch it what it +will do for them.</p> + +<p>"Opium-smoking makes rich men poor, honest men +thieves, and poor people even sell their children to obtain +the drug."</p> + +<p>"And can't they be cured, father?" Sybil asked.</p> + +<p>"Medical aid has been brought in to help them, +but it generally fails; and every now and then we hear +of an opium-smoker becoming a Christian and then overcoming +the vice, but this is also very rare indeed. And +what does this teach us, children?"</p> + +<p>They thought. "Never to acquire bad habits, I suppose," +said Sybil, "for fear they should grow upon +us."</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 346px;"> +<img src="images/i-086.png" width="346" height="600" alt="HABITUAL OPIUM-SMOKERS." title="" /> +<span class="caption">HABITUAL OPIUM-SMOKERS.</span> +</div> + +<p>"Yes; and because they do grow upon us. Everything +to which we very much accustom ourselves grows +into a habit; therefore it is so very important for +both Chinese and English, for both grown-up and little<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span> +people, to cultivate good habits. And more especially is +this important in the case of young people, because so +many of our habits, which remain with us and influence +our whole after-life, are formed in our childish days."</p> + +<p>"And do people really sell their children?"</p> + +<p>"They do, indeed; and some children are so filial +that they will even sell themselves for the good of their +parents. There is very little that a Chinaman will not +do for a parent. One of their superstitions is that if a +father or mother be ill, and the child should cut away +some of its own flesh to mix in the parent's medicine, a +cure would be effected; and children have been known +to cut pieces, for this purpose, out of their own arms."</p> + +<p>"What would happen," Sybil asked, "if a child were +to do anything very dreadful to a parent in China?"</p> + +<p>"If a son kill a parent, he is put to death, his +house is torn down, his nearest neighbours are punished, +and his schoolmaster is put to death; the magistrate of the +district would also suffer, and the governor of the province +would go down in rank."</p> + +<p>"How unfair!" Leonard exclaimed, "when only +one person did it."</p> + +<p>"Why does all that happen?" Sybil asked.</p> + +<p>"To show how great the man's sin is. The schoolmaster +is punished because it is thought that he did not +bring up his pupil properly. Of course, it is very unfair, +but the Chinese are often very cruel in their +chastisments, and many criminals prefer death to some of +the other punishments. A great many also suffer capital +punishment; sometimes as many as ten thousand people +in a year."</p> + +<p>"Then, when children do wrong, their parents and +schoolmasters are blamed?"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Very often their faults are attributed to their +bringing-up."</p> + +<p>"Oh! oughtn't we to be careful, then, Leonard? +Fancy when we do wrong people blaming father or +mother!"</p> + +<p>Leonard was then very anxious to hear more about +Chinese punishments, so his father told him an occurrence +that he had once witnessed.</p> + +<p>"A very usual way of punishing small offences," he +began, "is by beating with a bamboo; and whenever +a mandarin finds that any one, under his jurisdiction, has +transgressed, he can use the bamboo. Parents use it on +their children even when they are thirty years of age. +The poor Chinese culprits used to be subject to very +horrible tortures, such as having their fingers or ankles +squeezed until they made confession; but I believe +a good many of the worst tortures have now been done +away with. One in common use is the canque, which +is a collar made of heavy wood, with a hole in the centre +for the head to come through. It is fastened round the +neck, and is worn from one to three months, preventing its +prisoner from lying down day or night. The captive +remains in the street instead of in prison, and is dependent +upon his friends to feed him."</p> + +<p>"What a shame!" Leonard said. "I'd like to be a +magistrate in China, to put that sort of cruelty down."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 365px;"> +<img src="images/i-089.png" width="365" height="500" alt="A CHINESE COURT OF LAW." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A CHINESE COURT OF LAW.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/i-090.png" width="450" height="400" alt="CHINESE PUNISHMENT." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CHINESE PUNISHMENT.</span> +</div> + +<p>"But now I am coming to a trial that I witnessed +myself. I remember, as I went into the Provincial +Criminal Court, one day, seeing the judge sitting +behind a large table, covered with a red cloth. Secretaries, +interpreters, and turnkeys stood at each end +of the table, only the judge having a right to sit down. +Soon after I arrived the prisoner was led in by a chain<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span> +who immediately threw himself down on the ground +before the judge. The crime brought against him was +robbing an official of high rank. It was thought that +he could not have committed the robbery alone, and was +asked how it was effected, and who were his accomplices. +He would not say. Then he was beaten; but still this +brought no answer. Both an arm and a leg were then +put into a board, which made it almost impossible for +him either to walk, or sit, or stand. His poor back must +have ached terribly; and while one man dragged him<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span> +along by a chain, another held a whip to urge him +forward.</p> + +<p>"And he had never committed the robbery after all, +but gave himself up in place of his father, a man named +Wang-Yangsui, who was really the culprit."</p> + +<p>Tears were in Sybil's eyes as she listened.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/i-091.png" width="450" height="422" alt="POOR OLD WANG-YANGSUI IN THE CAGE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">POOR OLD WANG-YANGSUI IN THE CAGE.</span> +</div> + +<p>"And he suffered all that?" she said.</p> + +<p>"Sons have been known to allow themselves to be +transported to save their parents, and then only to have +felt that they did their duty."</p> + +<p>"And in this case was the real culprit ever found +out?"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Yes; the father, moved with compassion for his +boy, gave himself up."</p> + +<p>"And did they not let him off," Leonard asked, "as +the son had suffered so much for him?"</p> + +<p>"No; they put him into a cage in which were holes +for his head and feet, but in which he could neither sit +down nor stand upright. Round the cage was an inscription +relating the nature of his crime."</p> + +<p>"How long was he left there?"</p> + +<p>"That I was not able to hear, but the day he was +incarcerated I saw his daughter feeding him with chop-sticks. +These, which consist of two sticks that people +hold in the same hand wherewith to feed themselves, +instead of knives and forks, the Chinese always use when +they eat. She must have found it difficult to get to +him, as she was carrying a basket, as well as a baby on her +back, for she had small feet, and women with small feet +cannot walk any distance, even without a load at all. It +is not the rule for lower class girls to have their feet +made small, though in some cases it is done. This +woman had once been better off."</p> + +<p>"Why do Chinese ladies have small feet?" Leonard +asked.</p> + +<p>"But, father," Sybil put in, "please tell us first +what became of that poor old man. I am so sorry he +stole."</p> + +<p>"I heard that great poverty had tempted him to do +so, but that he afterwards bitterly repented of the crime +which he had committed. How long he remained in the +cage I was never able to ascertain; but I really think +now that we must close our 'Peep-show' for to-day."</p> + +<p>"After we've heard about the small feet ladies, +father. I think you have just time for that."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span></p> + +<p>"The feet of Chinese women would be no smaller +than, perhaps not as small as, other women's feet, were +they not compressed."</p> + +<p>"What does that mean?"</p> + +<p>"Made smaller by being pressed."</p> + +<p>"How painful it must be!"</p> + +<p>"So it is. When very young, a little girl's foot is +tightly bandaged round, the end of the bandage being first +laid on the inside of the foot, then carried round the toes, +under the foot, and round the heel till the toes are +drawn over the sole, in which an indentation becomes +made and the instep swells out. After a time the +foot is soaked in hot water, when some of the toes will +occasionally drop off. Every time the bandage is taken +away another is put on, and tied more tightly. For the +first year there is, as we can imagine, dreadful pain, +but after two years the foot will become dead and cease +to ache. You can therefore understand that it is very +uncomfortable for Chinese ladies to walk, and if they +go any distance they are carried on the backs of their +female slaves."</p> + +<p>"Are all Chinese parents so silly as to have their +little girls' feet bandaged?"</p> + +<p>"A few are strong-minded enough to break through +the rule, and all the Tartar ladies have natural feet. +Anti-foot-binding societies have now been formed by +the Chinese gentry in Canton and Amoy."</p> + +<p>"I wonder what made people first think of doing +this?" Sybil said.</p> + +<p>"Some people think that it was first done to +help husbands to keep their wives at home; others +say that it was to copy an Empress who had a deformed +foot which she bandaged; but whatever the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span> +reason may have been, we cannot but wish very, very +strongly, that the cruel custom might be soon completely +done away with!"</p> + +<p>"I shall like to see the ladies being carried on their +slaves' backs," Leonard said. "That will be fun!"</p> + +<p>"You will soon see it now," was his father's answer, +"for we have been six weeks at sea, and the captain says +we may expect to be at Shanghai in another ten days' +time, so I think I had better not tell you any more, and +let you find out the rest for yourselves."</p> + +<p>"I think we might have just one more 'Peep-show,'" +Sybil replied, "and hear how we get our tea-leaves. +I think we ought to know about that before we +arrive."</p> + +<p>The missionary smiled, and the next time his children +wanted a "Peep-show" very much, only a very little +persuasion was required to make him sit down between +them and let them have it.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/i-094.png" width="300" height="219" alt="Small feet" title="" /> +</div> +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i-095a.png" width="500" height="189" alt="Landscape" title="" /> +</div> + + + + +<h2>CHAPTER V.</h2> + +<div class='chaptertitle'>THE MERCHANT SHOWMAN.</div> + + +<div class="figright" style="width: 285px;"> +<img src="images/i-095b.png" width="285" height="244" alt="Man sitting" title="" /> +</div> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 100px;"> +<img src="images/i-095c-wq.png" width="100" height="70" alt=""W" title="" /> +</div><div class='unindent'>ELL, so it is to be about +tea to-day," Mr. Graham +at once began. "Supposing +I do not know anything +about it, though; what are we to +do then? I know tea comes from +an evergreen plant, something +like a myrtle, but +that isn't much information, +is it? Wait a +minute, though, children," he then went on, "and you +shall have a proper lesson to-day." And as he spoke +Mr. Graham disappeared, soon to return with a fellow +passenger, a tea merchant, who would be the kind +"show-man" for to-day.</div> + +<p>"How far did you get?" he asked, as he sat amongst +the group of father, mother, and children, for Mrs. +Graham had also come to "the show" to-day.</p> + +<p>"That tea was an evergreen plant, something like the +myrtle," Sybil said, laughing; and all laughed with her.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i-096.png" width="500" height="402" alt="GATHERING TEA-LEAVES." title="" /> +<span class="caption">GATHERING TEA-LEAVES.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 445px;"> +<img src="images/i-097.png" width="445" height="600" alt="SIFTING TEA." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SIFTING TEA.</span> +</div> + +<p>"Then I have it all to do, it seems. Well, the tea-plant +yields a crop after it has been planted three years, +and there are three gatherings during the year: one in +the middle of April, the second at midsummer, and the +third in August and September. I suppose it will do +if we begin here. The plant requires very careful plucking, +only one leaf being allowed to be gathered at a time; +and then a tree must never be plucked too bare. +Women and children, who are generally, though not +always, the tea gatherers, are obliged to wash their hands +before they begin their work, and have to understand +that it is the medium-sized leaves which they have to pick,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span> +leaving the larger ones to gather the dew. When the +baskets are full, into which the leaves have been dropped, +they are carried away hanging to a bamboo slung across +the shoulders, which is a very usual way of carrying<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span> +things in China. The tea-plant is the most important +vegetable production of the 'Flowery Land.' But as there +are, you know, several kinds of tea, I think I had better +tell you how that called Congou, which, I suppose, you +generally drink yourselves, is prepared. The leaves are +first spread out in the air to dry, after which they are +trodden by labourers, so that any moisture remaining in +them, after they have been exposed to the air or sun, may +be pressed out; after this they are again heaped +together, and covered for the night with cloths. In this +state they remain all night, when a strange thing happens +to them, spontaneous heating changing the green leaves +to black or brown. They are now more fragrant and +the taste has changed.</p> + +<p>"The next process is to twist and crumple the leaves, +by rubbing them between the palms of the hands. In +this crumpled state they are again put in the sun, or if +the day be wet, or the sky threatening, they are baked +over a charcoal fire.</p> + +<p>"Leaves, arranged in a sieve, are placed in the middle +of a basket-frame, over a grate in which are hot embers of +charcoal. After some one has so stirred the leaves that they +have all become heated alike, they are ready to be sold +to proprietors of tea-hongs in the towns, when the proprietor +has the leaves again put over the fire and sifted.</p> + +<p>"After this, women and girls separate all the bad +leaves and stems from the good ones; sitting, in order to +do so, with baskets of leaves before them, and very carefully +picking out with both their hands all the bad leaves +and stems that the sieve has not got rid of. The light +and useless leaves are then divided from those that are +heavy and good, when the good are put into boxes lined +with paper."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span></p> + +<p>"What is scented Caper Tea?" Mr Graham asked.</p> + +<p>"Oh, father! I am so glad that there's something you +have to ask," Leonard said, "as you seemed to know +<i>everything</i>."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/i-099.png" width="450" height="447" alt="SORTING TEA." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SORTING TEA.</span> +</div> + +<p>"The leaves of scented Orange Pekoe," the merchant +answered, "obtain their fragrance by being mixed with +the flowers of the Arabian jessamine, and when scented +enough, they are separated from the flowers by sieves. +Scented Caper Tea is made from some of the leaves of +this Orange Pekoe.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 390px;"> +<img src="images/i-100.png" width="390" height="500" alt="PRESSING BAGS OF TEA." title="" /> +<span class="caption">PRESSING BAGS OF TEA.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 394px;"> +<img src="images/i-101.png" width="394" height="500" alt="TEA-TASTING." title="" /> +<span class="caption">TEA-TASTING.</span> +</div> + +<p>"Those leaves which are prepared at Canton are +black or brown, with a slight tinge of yellow or green. +The tea-leaves growing on an extensive range of hills +in the district of Hokshan are often forwarded to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span> +Canton, where they are made into caper in the following +manner. But I wonder if Leonard knows what +'shan' means?" the merchant interrupted. He did, +for he had seen in his geography that "shan" meant<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span> +mountain. "A tea-hong," the merchant continued, +"is furnished with many pans, into which seventeen +or eighteen handfuls of leaves are put. These are +moistened with water, and stirred up by the hand. As +soon as they are soft they are put into coarse bags, +which, tightly fastened, look like large balls.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 417px;"> +<img src="images/i-102.png" width="417" height="500" alt="WEIGHING TEA." title="" /> +<span class="caption">WEIGHING TEA.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span></p> + +<p>"These bags are moved backwards and forwards +on the floor by men holding on to wooden poles, and +standing upon them. In each bag the leaves take the +form of pellets, or capers.</p> + +<p>"The coarse leaves, gathered from finer ones, thus +made into Caper, after being well fired, are put into +wooden troughs, and chopped into several pieces, and +it is these pieces which become the tea which we call +Caper."</p> + +<p>"Thank you very much," said Mr. Graham. "I did +not know anything of this."</p> + +<p>"Tea-merchants are most particular, before buying +and selling tea, to taste it and to test its quality.</p> + +<p>"And before it is shipped away it is also very carefully +weighed, when I myself, I know, for instance, sit +by, watching the process, and taking account of the +result."</p> + +<p>"I suppose tea isn't ever sent about in wheel-barrows?" +then said Leonard, who liked very much +indeed the idea of wheel-barrows with sails up, such as +he had heard about.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i-104.png" width="600" height="388" alt="GOING TO MARKET." title="" /> +<span class="caption">GOING TO MARKET.</span> +</div> + +<p>"I never saw it," was the merchant's reply; "but if +you are interested in wheel-barrows, you might like to +hear about one that I once saw in China. It was conveying +not only goods, and the scales wherewith to +weigh them, to market, but the family also to whom the +goods belonged. The family party made a great impression +upon me. The master of the barrow was pushing +it from behind, a donkey was pulling it in front, and on +the donkey rode a boy; a woman and two children +were driven in the wheel-barrow, besides the goods for +market. I thought the man and donkey must have a +heavy load between them, but both seemed to work most<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span> +cheerfully and willingly; and a sail in the centre of +the wheel-barrow, gathering the full force of the wind, +must have been a great help to them.</p> + +<p>"The donkey was guided by no reins, only by the +voice of the boy on his back, who carried a stick, but had +no occasion to use it, although every now and then he just +raised it in the air. Sometimes the boy ran beside the +donkey. Anyhow suited the willing little beast, who +was as anxious as his master to do his best. A dog +completed the number of the party.</p> + +<p>"The man told me that he was truly fond of this +dog, and gave him 'plenty chow-chow' (plenty to eat), and +that he considered he owed all his wealth to him, as he +had once come to the house, and had since then remained +with the family.</p> + +<p>"A strange dog coming to, and remaining at, a house +is looked upon by the Chinese as bringing good luck to +the family, but a strange cat coming is a bad omen."</p> + +<p>The children laughed.</p> + +<p>"This man certainly treated his dog very well, as do +some few of his countrymen; but, alas! alas! so many +poor little faithful dogs in China, as in other countries, +lead anything but happy lives!"</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i-105.png" width="400" height="173" alt="Landscape" title="" /> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i-106a.png" width="500" height="236" alt="On river" title="" /> +</div> + + + + +<h2>CHAPTER VI.</h2> + +<div class='chaptertitle'>LITTLE CHU AND WOO-URH.</div> + + +<div class="figright" style="width: 316px;"> +<img src="images/i-106b.png" width="316" height="350" alt="Decoration: Palm tree" title="" /> +</div> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 54px;"> +<img src="images/i-106c-n.png" width="54" height="70" alt="N" title="" /> +</div><div class='unindent'>O more story +Peep-shows of +what might be +seen in China, no more +wondering what the +Celestials would be like, +for Sybil and Leonard +had now landed on +Chinese soil, and +were themselves at +Shanghai, face to +face with its inhabitants.</div> + +<p>Shanghai seemed, +and was, a very +busy place, but not a town of very great importance in +itself, owing, really, its recent prosperity to having +opened its port to foreign commerce. The custom-house, +through which the Grahams' boxes had to be passed,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span> +struck the children as a very strange and beautiful +building, quite different from anything that they had +seen before; and there was a great noise of chattering +going on outside, which sounded most unintelligible. +Coolies were carrying bales of silk and tea to and fro; +there were also, ready at hand, some of the sedan-chairs +that Sybil had longed to see, and everywhere "pig-tails," +or cues, as they were called, seemed to meet +Leonard's gaze.</p> + +<p>But the ships! Watching them was what he enjoyed +better than anything else. The town of Shanghai +is situated on the River Woosung, a tributary of the +Yangtse-kiang, just at that point where it joins the +great river, and about one hundred ships were +anchored before this busy, commercial city. Many +families resident there have their junks and a little +home on the river. There were some very pretty +buildings to be seen at Shanghai, and at one of these +our little party stayed—on a visit to another missionary +from the Church of England—for the three +days that they remained there.</p> + +<p>At some cities and towns, on the banks of rivers, +floating hotels are to be seen; and as people generally +have to travel by water, and the Chinese are not allowed +to keep open their city-gates after nine o'clock at night, +these hotels prove very useful to those arriving too +late to enter the city. Lighted with lanterns, they look +very pretty floating on the water, and both Sybil and +Leonard were very pleased to be taken over a large +floating hotel before they left Shanghai. Leonard was +very anxious to know how long this town had been open +to foreign commerce, and was told since the Opium +War, which lasted from 1840 to 1842, when the British,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span> +having occupied several Chinese cities, and having +captured Chinkiang in Hoopeh, were advancing to +Nanking, and the Chinese suing for peace, a treaty +was concluded which opened the ports of Amoy, Foochow, +Shanghai, and Ningpo, in addition to Canton, to +the British, who were henceforward to appoint consuls +to live in these towns.</p> + +<p>The Chinese are very polite to foreigners in Shanghai; +and as the kind missionary who bade the Grahams +welcome to his home endeavoured, during their short +stay, to interest and show them sights, they enjoyed +themselves very much. Sybil and Leonard could not help +noticing how very many people they met in spectacles, +but they were told that the Chinese suffer very much +from ophthalmia, and that when they wear spectacles, +some of which are very large, they often have sore +eyes.</p> + +<p>"There is one thing I cannot understand the Chinese +doing," Leonard said one day to Sybil: "and that is, +everybody that we have seen, as yet, spoiling their tea +by not taking any milk or sugar in it; and father says +all the Chinese drink tea like that, and call milk white +blood, and only use it in medicine."</p> + +<p>"Tea like that would not suit us," Sybil answered, +"as we like plenty of both milk and sugar; but I dare +say they think we spoil our tea by putting such things +into it."</p> + +<p>A visit to some rice-fields, a little sight-seeing, +a little more watching of ships carrying rice and other +products away, and then it was time for the Grahams +once more to take their seats on board.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i-109.png" width="600" height="397" alt="THE CUSTOM-HOUSE, SHANGHAI." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE CUSTOM-HOUSE, SHANGHAI.</span> +</div> + +<p>We can imagine how both children strained their +eyes, as they steamed farther and farther away from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span> +Shanghai, to see what that port looked like in the +distance, and how Sybil examined her map as they +left the province of Kiang-su, to see at what port, and +in what province, they would next touch.</p> + +<p>This was Ningpo, in Che-kiang, but they did not +land here; neither did they go on shore at their next +halting-place, Foochow, in the province of Fu-kien. +It was at Amoy, in the same province, where their +father had a missionary friend, who had invited them +to pay him a few days' or a week's visit, as would suit +them best, that they next purposed landing, and this +they did about four days after they left Shanghai.</p> + +<p>"Whoever thought," Sybil said one day on board, +"that we should actually be on the Yellow Sea ourselves? +It seems almost too good to be true now."</p> + +<p>"I never knew people like to stare more at anybody +than they seem to like to stare at us here," Leonard +thought to himself when first at Amoy.</p> + +<p>He and Sybil were then being very carefully observed +by a group of natives of that place, but Leonard +had yet to become accustomed to being stared at in +China.</p> + +<p>"And, father," he said later, "I wonder why so +many of them wear turbans? I did not notice people +doing this at Shanghai."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i-111.png" width="600" height="407" alt="A FLOATING HOTEL AT SHANGHAI." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A FLOATING HOTEL AT SHANGHAI.</span> +</div> + +<p>Mr. Graham did not know the reason of this +either; but he and Leonard were later informed +that the men of Amoy adopted the turban to hide +the tail when they were made to wear it by +their conquerors, and that they never gave it up. +Leonard was also told that they were good soldiers, +which, he said, he thought they looked. One thing +remarkable about the people of Amoy was that the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span> +different families seemed to consist almost entirely of +boys. A great many of the inhabitants were very +poor, living crowded together in dirty houses very +barely furnished. Mrs. Graham had not to be long +in China to discover that cleanliness is not a Chinese +virtue. Sybil bought some very pretty artificial flowers +of some of the inhabitants of Amoy, which they had +themselves made. They manufactured them principally, +she heard, to be placed on graves.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i-112.png" width="500" height="172" alt="THE PORT OF SHANGHAI." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE PORT OF SHANGHAI.</span> +</div> + +<p>Like other Chinese, these people were very superstitious. +Here and there large blocks of granite were to +be met with, which were regarded by them with reverence, +and looked upon as good divinities. On one the +Grahams saw inscriptions, which related some history of +the place.</p> + +<p>Granite seemed to abound here, for the temples and +monasteries were, for the most part, erected on the +heights between rocks of this description.</p> + +<p>Two days after reaching Amoy, Sybil was dreadfully +distressed, and shocked, to see a little girl +named Chu, of eleven years old, put up for sale by her +own parents. At ten dollars (£1) only was she valued;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span> +and for this paltry sum the parents were ready to sell +her to any one who would bid it for her. They were +very poor, and could not afford to keep her any longer. +She had four sisters and only two brothers; the youngest +of all, the baby, was to be drowned by her father, later +on in the day, in a tub of water. They had never done +anything like this before: this man and woman had +never killed a child, although they had had five girls, +and many of their neighbours had thought nothing of +destroying most of their daughters so soon as they were +born; but now, as the man was ill, and able to earn so +little, they had resolved to rid themselves of two of them +that day. If the baby lived, the mother comforted herself +by saying, she must be sold later, or grow up in +poverty and misery.</p> + +<p>Parents think it very necessary that their children +should marry, and sometimes sell, or give them away, +to their friends, when they are quite little, to be the +future wives of the sons of their new owners.</p> + +<p>If sold, they will then fetch about two dollars for +every year that they have lived; so a child of five years +old would fetch ten dollars; and this little girl, put up +for sale, was now eleven years old; therefore she was +being offered, poor little thing, below half price. And +some little girls of Amoy have been even offered for +sale for a few pence!</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i-114.png" width="600" height="380" alt="A FAMILY OF AMOY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A FAMILY OF AMOY.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 276px;"> +<img src="images/i-115.png" width="276" height="400" alt="THE MISSIONARY'S TEACHER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE MISSIONARY'S TEACHER.</span> +</div> + +<p>It seemed incomprehensible to Sybil, as it must to +us, that a mother could wish either to kill or to sell +her little child, but neither the one nor the other +event is uncommon in some parts of China, where the +parent is poor; and even amongst the well-to-do +classes little girls are sometimes put to death, if the +parents have more daughters than they care to rear,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span> +not only at Amoy, but at other places in the neighbourhood; +and even Chinese ladies will sometimes have +their poor little daughters put to death.</p> + +<p>"Why do people not kill their boys too?" Sybil +asked, when she heard all about this.</p> + + + +<p>"Because when they grow up they can earn money +that girls could not earn; and not only can they help to +support their parents when old, but they can worship +their ancestral tablets and keep up the family name."</p> + +<p>"I am sure a girl would do this too."</p> + +<p>"Her doing so would be considered of little use."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i-116.png" width="600" height="327" alt="A VIEW OF AMOY, WITH A BLOCK OF GRANITE IN THE FOREGROUND." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A VIEW OF AMOY, WITH A BLOCK OF GRANITE IN THE FOREGROUND.</span> +</div> + +<p>It seemed that the very day before Mr. Graham<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span> +arrived in Amoy, a widow lady there had had her little +baby girl destroyed, and then, in her widow's dress, +had sat down quietly to talk matters over with her +sister-in-law, who thought that she had acted very +wisely. Killing a daughter, in China, is hardly looked +upon as being sinful. A widow's mourning consists of +all white and a band round the head, white being +Chinese deepest mourning.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i-117.png" width="400" height="397" alt="LADIES OF AMOY." title="" /> +<span class="caption">LADIES OF AMOY.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 353px;"> +<img src="images/i-118.png" width="353" height="450" alt="LITTLE CHU." title="" /> +<span class="caption">LITTLE CHU.</span> +</div> + +<p>Whilst Mr. Graham stood by, a purchaser for little +Chu stepped forward, holding the ten dollars in his hand; +but the missionary was before him, and through a teacher,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span> +whom he had already been able to engage, offered the +father twice that sum not to sell the little girl at all, but +to let him have her for a servant. He hesitated, as +though he would rather sell his child right off to any +Chinaman than trust her to a foreign "barbarian." +But the sum tempted him; and although he could not +understand how receiving it did not give Chu altogether +to her purchaser, he seemed to be contented, especially +when the teacher explained that she would not be a slave, +but would be paid for what work she did. Little Chu +was well off to have stepped into so happy a service, and +the baby was rescued also. A certain sum was to be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span> +paid weekly to the father, towards her support, until he +recovered his health, if he would only spare her; and both +parents, who really fondly loved their children, were +very glad to spare their baby, fifth girl though she was. +Her name was Woo-Urh, which means fifth girl.</p> + +<p>It did not take long to have little Chu tidily dressed, +with money that her new master supplied, and her poor +mother, who had some beads stowed away, now looked +them out and also put these on her. Chu was only +eleven years old, but poverty and care had given the little +one an old expression beyond her years. Chinese children +of from ten to sixteen years of age—about which +time they are supposed to marry—have a fringe cut over +their foreheads, and Chu wore this fringe now. It has +to grow again before they marry.</p> + +<p>That evening Chu was sent round to Mr. Graham's +brother missionary's house, where, as Sybil's little maid, +she was housed for the two or three days longer that they +would spend at Amoy; and though Chu had come to live +with foreigners, in the family of a "barbarian," as her +father thought, we can well imagine that she had never +been so happy in her life. Mr. Graham had told her +parents that when they reached Hong-Kong he should +send her to the mission school.</p> + +<p>"And the father would have killed the baby himself!" +said Sybil. "How could he have done so?"</p> + +<p>"That is the marvel; but it is generally the fathers +who commit the deed; other people might be punished +if they interfered."</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span></p> + + + + +<div><img src="images/i-120a1.png" width="600" height="441" alt="Decoration" title="" class="splitlt" /> +<img src="images/i-120a2.png" width="247" height="168" alt="Decoration" title="" class="splitlb" /> +</div> +<div class='chapternumber2'><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />CHAPTER VII.<br /><br /></div> + + +<div class='chaptertitle'>LEONARD'S EXPLOIT IN FORMOSA.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></div> + + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 58px;"> +<img src="images/i-120b-a.png" width="58" height="71" alt="A" title="" /> +</div><div class='unindent'>BOUT the middle of November, +eleven weeks +after Mr. Graham and +his family had left England, they arrived in the +beautiful island of Formosa, whither they had crossed +over from Amoy.</div> + +<p>Three more persons were now added to the travelling +party—the teacher, a Chinese maid, and little Chu, the +latter having already begun to show herself really +useful.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/i-121.png" width="450" height="450" alt="ENTRANCE TO THE PORT OF TAKOW." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ENTRANCE TO THE PORT OF TAKOW.</span> +</div> + +<p>There is but little fun in travelling, and one does +not see half there is to be seen unless one climbs; and +as the Grahams were all bent on having fun and seeing +as much as they could, on reaching the port of Takow, +in Formosa, they ascended a very high mountain, +called Monkey Mountain, because it is the home of very<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span> +many monkeys, and they were rewarded by having, from +its height, a capital view of the entrance to the port. +To the front of the mountain were some European +houses, belonging to English merchants from Amoy. +The port of Takow is a very difficult one at which to +anchor, and is closed for commerce during six months of +the year, whilst the wind is blowing in an adverse direction; +but when the wind and tide are favourable, barks +pass between some rocks at the entrance to the port. It +is only at the north that the water is deep enough<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span> +for merchant-ships to pass by. Here Leonard saw men +fishing quite differently from what he had ever seen +people fish before; and as they walked in the water +behind their nets, which they seemed to manage very +cleverly, he wished so much that he could have been +there with them.</p> + +<p>Takow is one of the four ports in Formosa which, +through treaties, have been thrown open to foreign trade, +the others being those of Kelung, Tamsui, and Taiwan-fu.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i-122.png" width="500" height="178" alt="THE EXTREME NORTH OF TAKOW." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE EXTREME NORTH OF TAKOW.</span> +</div> + +<p>Formosa, as its name implies, is a very lovely, +picturesque island, and the Spaniards, who first made it +known to Europeans, named it "Isla Formosa," which, +in their language, means "beautiful island." Takow +seemed to abound in tropical vegetation, palm-trees +being very conspicuous. The gong, used everywhere in +China, was much in use here also; and as in other places +men carried things by balancing them across their +shoulders, so also they did here. But as Mr. Graham's +special object in coming to this island was to visit +Poahbi, the first centre of the population of a tribe +of aborigines, whom the Chinese have named Pepohoans, +or strangers of the plain, he moved on thither<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span> +as quickly as he could. The country through which +they now passed was very beautiful, palm-trees and +bamboos overshadowing the way.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i-123.png" width="400" height="402" alt="FISHERMEN OF TAKOW." title="" /> +<span class="caption">FISHERMEN OF TAKOW.</span> +</div> + +<p>Although it was the month of November, the +weather was hot here, and women, wearing white calico +dresses, were hard at work in the fields. Many of +the women of Formosa had compressed feet, and most +of the children wore charms round their necks.</p> + +<p>The Pepohoans used to live in fertile plains, but +when greedy and grasping Chinese drove them from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span> +the rich and beautiful lands that were then theirs, and +had belonged to their ancestors before them, they took +shelter, and made themselves homes, in mountain fastnesses.</p> + +<p>Sybil and Leonard were charmed with the people of +Poahbi, and thought both their faces and manners very +pretty. Although some of the people stared at the +foreigners, and laughed at them, many wished to make +them welcome in their midst. One woman gave them +shelter for the night—a very kind-hearted woman, with +a dear little baby, and a very clean and comfortable +home. She was a Christian.</p> + +<p>At Poahbi Mr. Graham saw a little Christian chapel, +which the natives had not only built, but which they +also kept up, themselves. Pepohoans are good builders, +and do also much work in the fields. They have a +most affectionate remembrance of the Dutch, who were +once their masters, but who were afterwards expelled +from Formosa by a Chinese pirate.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i-125.png" width="600" height="344" alt="VIEW OF TAKOW, A TOWN IN FORMOSA." title="" /> +<span class="caption">VIEW OF TAKOW, A TOWN IN FORMOSA.</span> +</div> + +<p>The huts, or bamboo cottages, of the Pepohoans, +raised on terraces three or four feet high, looked very +picturesque, and consisted first of a framework of +bamboo, through which crossbars of reeds were run; +the whole being thickly covered over with clay. The +houses were afterwards whitened with lime. A barrier +of prickly stems extended round the huts, throwing +a shade over them, whilst these dwellings often had for +roofing a thatch of dried leaves. Most things in Formosa +were made of bamboo, such as tables, chairs, beds, +pails, rice-measures, jars, hats, pipes, chop-sticks, goblets, +paper, and pens. Many of the Pepohoans' habitations +were built on three sides of a four-cornered spot, +with a yard in the centre, where the families sometimes<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span> +passed their evenings together. The natives assembled +here, in numbers, at about nine o'clock, where they +made a fire when it was cold. Old and young people +here often formed a circle on the ground, sitting +together with their arms crossed, smoking, and talking. +It was not unusual for dogs also to surround them. +These people were fond of singing, but played no musical +instruments. Sybil said, directly she saw them, that +they were just the sort of people she liked, but this was +before she heard that they ate serpents and rats. The +women had a quantity of hair, which they wound round +their heads like crowns. None of them painted their +faces. Some of the men were very badly dressed. All +Pepohoans seemed to have very beautiful black eyes. In +the different villages the inhabitants were different, and +where they had most contact with the Chinese they dressed +better, but were less affable. They seemed to be a +very honest race.</p> + +<p>The Pepohoans are subject to the Chinese Government. +Some of them, like the Chinese, have been ruined +by opium. The aborigines, consisting of different +tribes, talk different dialects. The people of one tribe, +the most savage of all, are very warlike, and think nothing +of killing and eating their Chinese neighbours when +they get the chance to do so; therefore, they are held +in great terror. Sybil and Leonard would not have liked +to have visited this tribe, for they also hate Europeans.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 349px;"> +<img src="images/i-127.png" width="349" height="600" alt="MOUNTAINEERS OF FORMOSA." title="" /> +<span class="caption">MOUNTAINEERS OF FORMOSA.</span> +</div> + +<p>There was a grandness of beauty in this island of +Formosa which could not fail, more and more, to charm +Mrs. Graham, and many a pretty sketch did she here +make, both for herself and for Sybil's letters. Sybil +also liked being here very much; "but if she had only +seen," Leonard said, what he and his father saw one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</a></span> +day, when they went for a ramble through the mountains, +whilst Sybil was helping her mother to sketch by +keeping her company, and making clever little attempts +at sketching herself, "she would want to be off that +very moment."</p> + +<p>There were caverns in Formosa, and they were walking +along, exploring some, Leonard some little way in front +of Mr. Graham, the teacher, and a native guide, who followed +a few yards behind, when the English boy suddenly +caught sight of two huge, yellow serpents twined round +the branch of an overhanging tree. No one but Leonard +was near enough to see them, and as the first creature +stretched its dreadful-looking head out, hissing towards +him, the brave, self-possessed little fellow, who held a +stick in his hand, struck his deadly foe with it with all +his might, and hit and aimed so well that he had the +satisfaction, the next moment, of seeing the serpent roll +over and over down the rock. But then the further one +(which, although rather smaller than the other, measured +about six feet) wound, in a moment, its wriggling body +round the branch of the tree, stretching its head out +almost within reach of Leonard, when the boy-guide and +Mr. Graham, the same instant, came upon the spot. The +boy, accustomed to such encounters, at once dealt the +snake a blow, that caused it to lose its balance, and +thus all were able to pass on their way in thankfulness +and safety.</p> + +<p>When Sybil heard of the adventure she was very +proud of her little brother; but, as he had imagined +when she heard that Formosa was inhabited by serpents, +she was glad also to think that it was settled for +them to leave that island for Swatow in two days' time.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i-129.png" width="600" height="373" alt="PEPOHOANS AND THEIR HUT." title="" /> +<span class="caption">PEPOHOANS AND THEIR HUT.</span> +</div> + +<p>That evening was spent very pleasantly comparing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[124]</a></span> +notes of adventure with an English gentleman, who had +been in Formosa for some time, and now called upon +Mr. Graham and his family, who were staying at the +consul's. He had seen and done a good deal, he said, +but he spoke very highly of Leonard's brave exploit.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i-130.png" width="400" height="376" alt="HUT OF ONE OF THE SAVAGE TRIBES." title="" /> +<span class="caption">HUT OF ONE OF THE SAVAGE TRIBES.</span> +</div> + +<p>In the course of his wanderings, he told them, he had +visited the village of Lalung, which is situated on the +narrowest part of a large river. During the rainy season +the waters would here rise and cover a vast bed, opening +out a new passage across the land, and flowing away +towards the eastern plain. Great mountain heights<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[125]</a></span> +surrounded the bed of the river, and the violence of the +torrent carried away very large quantities of all sorts of +rubbish, which the sea would collect, and deposit, along +the eastern coast. Mr. Hardy explained to Leonard how +this would account for the port of Thaï-ouan disappearing, +and that of Takow forming lower down.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 425px;"> +<img src="images/i-131.png" width="425" height="500" alt="SERPENTS OF FORMOSA." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SERPENTS OF FORMOSA.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[126]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i-132.png" width="600" height="377" alt="THE BED OF THE RIVER LALUNG DURING THE DRY SEASON." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE BED OF THE RIVER LALUNG DURING THE DRY SEASON.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[127]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Formosa," he continued, "shows very plainly how +the violence of waters can quite transform the physical +aspect of a country."</p> + +<p>Mr. Hardy then told them that he, with a guide, had +once visited the bed of the river of Lalung, during the +dry season, as an explorer, when he had taken off his boots +and socks, so as to be able to walk wherever he chose, +and fathom the depth of the water in different parts.</p> + +<p>How Leonard wished he had been with him on this occasion, +which seemed to him a regular voyage of discovery!</p> + +<p>Two days later, as arranged, the Grahams made sail +for Swatow. In crossing the channel, which separates +the island from the mainland, Leonard, as usual, had +some questions to ask.</p> + +<p>"What made the Chinese call Formosa Tai-wan?"</p> + +<p>"Because that word means the terraced harbour."</p> + +<p>"The east coast hasn't a harbour at all, has it?"</p> + +<p>"No; mountains are on the east, and to the west +are flat and fertile plains, and all the ports."</p> + +<p>"I suppose you know, Sybil, that there are some +wild beasts in Formosa?" Leonard went on.</p> + +<p>"Yes, I heard Mr. Hardy say so: leopards, tigers, +and wolves."</p> + +<p>"I think it's my turn to ask a question now," Mrs. +Graham said. "I wonder if you and Sybil can tell +me what grows principally in Formosa?"</p> + +<p>"Rice," Sybil began, "sugar, wheat, beans, tea, +coffee, pepper."</p> + +<p>"Cotton, tobacco, silk, oranges, peaches, and +plums," Leonard ended. "We saw most of these +things growing ourselves, so we ought to know."</p> + +<p>"Yes; and flax, indigo, camphor, and many fruits +that you have not mentioned."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[128]</a></span></p> + +<p>"The Chinese part of the island, I suppose, belongs +to Fukien?" Sybil said, "as it is painted the same colour +on my map."</p> + +<p>"Yes."</p> + +<p>What religion had the aborigines? she then wanted +to know.</p> + +<p>Mr. Graham answered this question by telling her +that he believed they had no priesthood at all.</p> + +<p>"What a pity it is," Sybil said, "that a number of +missionaries could not be sent out there. I do so like +the Pepohoans!"</p> + +<p>"How long is it now since the Dutch were driven +away?" Leonard asked. "And how long were they in +Formosa?"</p> + +<p>"About 1634 the Dutch took possession of the +island, and built several forts, but a Chinese pirate +drove them out in 1662, and made himself king of the +western part. In 1683 his descendants submitted to the +authority of the Chinese Emperor, to whom they are now +tributary. The Chinese colonists, however, often rebel."</p> + +<p>"People have not known very long, have they, that +the island of Formosa is important?"</p> + +<p>"No; only since about 1852."</p> + +<p>"About how many inhabitants has Thaï-ouan, the +capital?" Leonard asked.</p> + +<p>"I should think about 70,000, but it is now decreasing +in population."</p> + +<p>"How much you know, father," Sybil said. "I +wish I knew all you did!"</p> + +<p>"I am afraid that is not very much; but if you +notice things that you come across, and try to remember +what you hear and what you read, you will soon gain +plenty of knowledge and useful information."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[129]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i-135.png" width="600" height="360" alt="SWATOW." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SWATOW.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[130]</a></span></p> + +<p>"I wonder what Swatow is like?" Leonard then said; +but he had not long to wait to find out, for a week after +leaving Formosa they landed at Swatow, the port of +Chaou-Chou-foo, in the province of Kwang-tung, where +once again, for a fortnight, they were made very +welcome: this time by some friends of the missionary +with whom they had stayed at Amoy.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 359px;"> +<img src="images/i-136.png" width="359" height="400" alt="E-CHUNG." title="" /> +<span class="caption">E-CHUNG.</span> +</div> + +<p>Their home, for the present, was very prettily +situated on a range of low hills. Many pieces of granite +were scattered about on the summit of these hills, as +they were about Amoy, which some people say have +been caused to appear through volcanic irruptions. +On them also were Chinese inscriptions. Leonard +was delighted because the Chinese teacher cut his name<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[131]</a></span> +on one of these pieces of granite. The houses of Swatow +were built with a kind of mortar, made of China clay, +and attached to some of them were very pretty gardens.</p> + +<p>In front of the Consulate, which was a very large +building, was a flag-staff, with a flag flying.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 355px;"> +<img src="images/i-137.png" width="355" height="400" alt="WOMAN OF SWATOW." title="" /> +<span class="caption">WOMAN OF SWATOW.</span> +</div> + +<p>The ceilings of the house, in which the Grahams +stayed, was painted with flowers and birds, and some of +the windows were also painted so as to look like open +fans. The Chinese are fond of decorating their rooms +and painting their ornaments, and the people of +Swatow seemed to be better painters than the +Chinese; but they kept their pictures hidden, only a +very few of them producing any to show our friends. +The people of Swatow are also noted for fan-painting.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[132]</a></span></p> + +<p>Sybil thought some of the women of Swatow rather +nice-looking, but, like other ladies of the "Flowery Land," +they had a wonderful way of dressing their hair. One +woman, Leonard declared, had hers done to represent a +large shell. A young lady, to whom Sybil was introduced, +had the thickest hair that she had ever seen. +She and other Chinese girls wore it hanging down their +backs in twists. She was just fifteen, and Sybil was +told that she was going to be married in about a year's +time, so she would soon have to begin to let her fringe +grow. She was the daughter of a rich man, and had +such pretty, dark eyes.</p> + +<p>Round a girl's and woman's head, or to fasten up +her back hair, ornaments are generally worn. E-Chung +wore rather a large one round her head. Sybil was +allowed to spend an afternoon, and take some tea, with +this young lady, but they could not talk much together. +E-Chung knew, and spoke, a little of what is called +pidgin, or business English, because many business, or +shop, people and those who mix most with the English, +speak this strange language to them; but Sybil could +understand hardly any of it. Before E-Chung heard +that Sybil had a brother, she said to her, "You one +piecee chilo?" meaning to ask if she were the only +child. Then she was trying to describe somebody to +Sybil whose appearance did not please her, so she made +an ugly grimace and said, "That number one ugly man +all-same so fashion," meaning "just like this." Another +time she meant to ask Sybil if she were not very rich, +so she said, "You can muchee money?"</p> + +<p>The hair down Sybil's back was such a contrast to +her friend's, as was also her rather pale complexion. +E-Chung wished very much to enamel Sybil's face, as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[133]</a></span> +she did her own, and could not understand why she +should so persistently refuse to have it done.</p> + +<p>Chinese ladies seldom do without their rouge, and +often keep their amahs, or maids, from three to four +hours at a time doing their hair.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 260px;"> +<img src="images/i-139.png" width="260" height="350" alt="SYBIL." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SYBIL.</span> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[134]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i-140a.png" width="500" height="227" alt="Decoration: Boats on the water" title="" /> +</div> + + + + +<h2>CHAPTER VIII.</h2> + +<div class='chaptertitle'>THE BOAT POPULATION.</div> + + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 66px;"> +<img src="images/i-140b-m.png" width="66" height="71" alt="M" title="" /> +</div><div class='unindent'>R. GRAHAM had thought of visiting Chaou-chou, +a very fertile city on the river Han, but +was advised not to do so, as foreigners are +disliked by its inhabitants; and he was therefore told +that they might have cause to regret going thither. +It used not to be an uncommon thing for these people +to greet an Englishman with a shower of stones. +People have tried to establish an English consulate +there, but have not succeeded, although the city is open +to foreign commerce; and Jui Lin, the late viceroy of +Canton, succeeded in making people in the neighbourhood +much more orderly.</div> + +<p>A very large bridge crosses the Han River at this +place, a picture of which the teacher had, and showed to +the children. It is made of stone, and composed of +many arches, or rather square gateways, under which +ships pass to and fro. On the bridge, on each side of +the causeway, are houses and shops.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[135]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i-141.png" width="600" height="335" alt="THE BRIDGE OF CHAOU CHOU." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE BRIDGE OF CHAOU CHOU.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[136]</a></span></p> + +<p>"I should not care much to live in them," said +Leonard.</p> + +<p>Nor would the teacher, he replied; for they did +not look, and were not supposed to be, at all safe.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 444px;"> +<img src="images/i-142.png" width="444" height="450" alt="ARCH OF THE BRIDGE OF CHAOU-CHOU." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ARCH OF THE BRIDGE OF CHAOU-CHOU.</span> +</div> + +<p>Two pieces of wood are suspended between the +arches, which the inhabitants take up in the day-time +and let down at night, to prevent, as they say, evil +spirits passing under their homes and playing them +tricks.</p> + +<p>It was a very happy fortnight that was spent at<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[137]</a></span> +Swatow, and Sybil was sorry to leave this port to go on +to Hong-Kong. Somehow, although they were not +going to settle down now, and had still Macao and +Canton to visit, it seemed like bringing the end nearer—going +much nearer to it, when they went to Hong-Kong +even for a few days, for there her parents were to +be left behind when she and Leonard returned to +England. This English colony, the little island of +Hong-Kong, about eight miles in length, is separated +from the mainland by a very narrow strait, in the midst +of a number of small islands.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/i-143.png" width="450" height="446" alt="CHINESE BOAT-CHILDREN." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CHINESE BOAT-CHILDREN.</span> +</div> + +<p>The Bishop of Hong-Kong had kindly invited Mr.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[138]</a></span> +Graham and his family to stay at his residence, St. Paul's +College, during the few days that they now remained +at Hong-Kong, before continuing their tour and returning +to settle down, and the kind invitation had +been gladly and gratefully accepted.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 480px;"> +<img src="images/i-144.png" width="480" height="500" alt="CHAIR-MEN OF HONG-KONG." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CHAIR-MEN OF HONG-KONG.</span> +</div> + +<p>The missionary's party landed in a boat, or rather, in +a floating house, for the people to whom it belonged lived +here, and it was their only home.</p> + +<p>The children had heard that there were so many<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[139]</a></span> +inhabitants in China that for very many of them there was +no house accommodation, and that these lived in boats, +and were called the boat population; and Leonard was +delighted to be travelling in one of these house-boats himself, +and seeing the homes of the boat people. Their very +little children were tied to doors, and other parts of the +boat, by long ropes. Those who were three or four years +old had floats round their backs, so that if they fell overboard +they would not sink, and their parents could jump +in after them. Most care seemed to be taken of the +boys. Instead of being dedicated to "Mother," boat-children, +soon after they are born, are dedicated to Kow-wong, +or Nine Kings, and for three days and nights before +they marry, which ceremony takes place in the middle +of the night, Taouist priests chant prayers to the Kow-wong.</p> + +<p>The boats in which live the Taouist priests, for the +boat population, are called Nam-Mo-Teng. These are +anchored in certain parts, that the priests may be sent +for when needed. Their boats look partly like temples, +and have altars and idols, also incense burning within +them. The names of the priests who live there, and the +rites they perform, are written up in the boats. The +boat people can have everything they require without +going on shore at all. There are even river barbers and +policemen, which latter are very necessary, considering +that there are so many pirates.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 363px;"> +<img src="images/i-146.png" width="363" height="500" alt="A PORTRAIT-PAINTER OF HONG-KONG." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A PORTRAIT-PAINTER OF HONG-KONG.</span> +</div> + +<p>It seemed strange to Sybil and Leonard to +think that boat-children never went on shore, might +never do so, and would even marry on board their +boat homes; but it did not seem at all strange to +the little children themselves, who played about +on board quite as happily as did children on shore.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[140]</a></span> +They looked strong, and seemed to be fond of one +another. One woman going along was very angry +with one of her children, and for a punishment +threw him into the water, but he had a float on his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[141]</a></span> +back, and was quickly brought back again. These +women often carry their children on their backs, but this +is a most usual way of carrying children in China, both +amongst the land and water people.</p> + +<p>Sybil had already often had her wish fulfilled, of +travelling in sedan-chairs, and as that is the regular mode +of travelling in Hong-Kong, directly they arrived here +coolies were to be seen, standing and sitting, on the pier +beside their chairs, waiting for a fare. Very eager they +seemed to be to secure either people or their baggage. +And Sybil liked being borne along in these chairs even +better than she had expected.</p> + +<p>The sedans were made of bamboo, covered with oil-cloth, +and carried on long poles. A great many sedan-chair-bearers +have no fixed homes, living day and night +in the open air, and buying their food at stalls on the road. +They take care to keep their chairs in very good condition, +ready to hire out whenever they are needed. Leonard +was charmed with his bearers. They spoke such funny +pigeon English to him, and made him wonder why they +would put "ee" to the end of so many of their words. +When Leonard once wished to speak to his father, who was +on in front, and succeeded in making his bearers understand +this, one of them said "My no can catchee." They +admired the boy very much, and wanted to persuade +him to let them carry him one day to a "handsome face-taking-man," +but he could not understand at all, at +first, that they wanted him to let them carry him +somewhere to have his portrait taken. "My likee," +one said, pointing to Leonard's face, "welly much." +The Chinese do not paint pictures very well, and sometimes, +instead of a brush, will use their fingers and +nails.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[142]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i-148.png" width="600" height="392" alt="VIEW OF HONG-KONG." title="" /> +<span class="caption">VIEW OF HONG-KONG.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[143]</a></span></p> + +<p>The chair-men called Leonard "Captain" several +times, which seemed to be a common way of addressing +strange "gentlemen."</p> + +<p>They then asked him how Mr. Turner was, but he +shook his head to show that he knew nobody of this name. +They either did not understand or believe him.</p> + +<p>"He hab got London-side," they explained.</p> + +<p>Thinking that if he tacked a double "e" on to all +his words he would be speaking the language they +talked so much, he said "No-ee know-ee," and shook +his head again. I think it was the expression on his +face, and the shake of his head, which made them +understand at last what he wished to say to them.</p> + +<p>It seems that the natives of Hong-Kong, as well as +other parts of China, think that every Englishman +must know every other Englishman; having, indeed, +such very small ideas of our important country, that +they really think our wealth consists in our possessing +Hong-Kong.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 363px;"> +<img src="images/i-150.png" width="363" height="600" alt="THE CLOCK TOWER, HONG-KONG." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE CLOCK TOWER, HONG-KONG.</span> +</div> + +<p>The first view that the Grahams had of this little +island was a chain of mountains rising in the background +to lofty peaks, and diminishing as they approached +the sea into small hills and steep rocks. Not +so very long ago, Sybil was told, Hong-Kong used to be +a deserted island, though it now contained flower-gardens, +orchards, woods, large trees, beautiful grass slopes, +and very many buildings. The English town of +Victoria was built along the sea-coast. As Hong-Kong +belongs to Great Britain, the Government here was, of +course, English; there were Christian temples, as well +as Buddhist, and many European edifices were conspicuous +in the Chinese streets. Then there were also +large European club-houses, and, best of all, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[145]</a></span> +Cathedral. The sea-shore stretched round towards a +very beautiful port, which opened out to the west by a +pass called Lyce-moun, and to the east by the Lama +Pass.</p> + +<p>"I do think, do you know, Leonard," Sybil said, as +she wished her brother "Good-night" the evening after +they had arrived at Hong-Kong, "that China is rather +a 'Flowery Land' after all. I do not think I shall ever +forget Formosa, at all events."</p> + +<p>"We have seen pretty sights since we came to +China," Leonard said, agreeing with his sister.</p> + +<p>The next day Sybil and he were taken into the +Queen's Road, which crossed the town from west to +east, to the right of which was a regular labyrinth of +streets, some leading into very fine roads. In one +part of Hong-Kong nothing but shops and houses +of business were to be seen. One of its principal +ornaments was the tall clock-tower, which made even +high trees beside it look quite small.</p> + +<p>The most ancient houses of the colony are in a +street that leads to the clock-tower, and close by it is +also the hotel of Hong-Kong. Into this Sybil and +Leonard were taken to have some tiffin, or lunch, +whilst their sedans and bearers waited for them not far +off, under some trees.</p> + +<p>Leonard took a good view afterwards of a man in a +turban whom they passed, because, as he was so important +a person as a policeman, he thought Sybil +might like to describe him in one of her letters, and she +might perhaps forget what he was like.</p> + +<p>Sybil had, as yet, only written one of her promised +letters, but this had been full of news, and had told of +rides in sedan-chairs, little Chu and Woo-urh, and all sorts<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[146]</a></span> +of things; and before they moved on to Macao, she had +determined to write another letter, and tell of Leonard +saving himself from the serpent, and what they saw in +Hong-Kong. This seemed to be a very busy place. +Steamers were always either coming or going; and here, +too, telegrams were constantly arriving. Besides English +merchants, Chinese, American, French, German, Hindoo +merchants, and others also traded with the little island, +and shared what wealth she had. Hong-Kong is very +English-looking, compared with other places in China, +and the people are not only governed by English +laws, but their crimes are tried by English judges. +But even at Canton, Shanghai, and other ports where +the English have settlements, they now claim, and have +a voice in trials for crime. It is only because Hong-Kong +belongs to the English that telegraph-wires are to +be found there, as the Chinese will not have them anywhere +else, because they think that they would offend +the ghosts, or spirits, of the places through which they +would pass. For the same reason also the Chinese have +hardly any railroads. Even children could easily +recognise here the introduction of English ways and +manners.</p> + +<p>Lily Keith was very fond of shopping, therefore in +her next letter Sybil not only gave an account of +Leonard's bravery, of which she was really more +proud than Leonard himself, but also described a visit +that she had paid to some shops.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"We went to some of the best of all the shops in +Hong-Kong to-day," she wrote, "and as we were going +into the door of one, the proprietor came to meet us. +Father said he was a merchant. He spoke English, and +was very grandly dressed in silk, and wore worked shoes.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[147]</a></span> +His shopmen also wore very handsome clothes, and +served us standing behind beautifully polished counters. +In one part of the shop were all kinds of silk materials, +and some stuff called grass-matting. We went down-stairs +to see furniture and beautiful porcelain. The +principal curiosities had come from Canton, so I suppose +when we get there we shall find still better things; and +in Canton people paint on that pretty rice paper. Across +the road were meat, fish, vegetable, and puppy-dog +shops. Yes, the Chinese do eat dogs: in some shops in +Hong-Kong we have seen a number for sale; and they +eat cats and rats too. We could tell a shop in which +clothes were sold some little distance off, because an +imitation jacket, or something of that sort, was hung up +outside, as well as the long sign-boards, which told what +kind of shops they were. Leonard says I am to tell +you that a policeman was outside. He always knows +policemen now by turbans that they wear, and they +often hold a little cane in their hands; and on the pathway +a man sat, wearing a hat just like one of those +funny-looking things, with a point, that we wore for fun +sometimes in the garden. There are no windows to the +shops.</p></div> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 357px;"> +<img src="images/i-154.png" width="357" height="600" alt="TEMPLE OF KWAN-YIN." title="" /> +<span class="caption">TEMPLE OF KWAN-YIN.</span> +</div> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"Oh! but some of the Chinese do believe such +strange things. The other day our amah told Leonard +and me to chatter our teeth three times and blow. We +could not understand what she meant us to do until she +did it first. We had heard a crow caw, so she thought +if we did not do this afterwards we should be very +unlucky. The other day a coolie fell down and broke a +number of things. He had not to replace any of them, +but the master had to buy all the things again because +it was fine weather. If it had been dirty and slippery,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[149]</a></span> +the boy must have bought them. None of us could +understand the meaning of this till it was explained +to us. If it had been a slippery day, the boy ought to have +taken care, and it would have been very careless of him +to fall; but if he did so in fine weather, some god must +have made him slip, they think, and therefore he could +not help it. The heathen Chinese have such a number +of gods and goddesses.</p></div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 392px;"> +<img src="images/i-156.png" width="392" height="600" alt="A SHADOW-SHOW." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A SHADOW-SHOW.</span> +</div> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"The other day we passed the Temple of Kwan-Yin, +the goddess of mercy. The Hong-Kong people +think an immense deal of her, and her temple is in such +a pretty place, with many trees round it. She is a +Buddhist divinity. A number of beggars were outside +begging, and they nearly always get something here. +Very many Chinese beggars are blind, and there are +also lepers in China. Barriers were put up to keep +visitors, who were not wanted, such as evil spirits, from +going in. People say that evil spirits only care to go +through a straight way, and never trouble to go anywhere +in a crooked direction. Over the doorway were +some characters, which father's teacher has written out +for me. They were, being read from right to left, +backwards: 'Teën How Kov Meaou,' and signify, +'The Ancient Temple of the Queen of Heaven.' Tien-How +is the goddess of sailors, and often called 'The +Queen of Heaven.' To the right was a doctor's +shop, where prescriptions were sold to the priests; +and to the left an old priest was selling little tapers +which the worshippers were to burn. We looked in +for a few moments, and saw people kneeling down +and asking the goddess to cure their sick friends. +She was seated at the end of the temple, behind an +altar, on which were bronze vases, candles, and lighted<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[151]</a></span> +sticks of incense. A gong was outside, and on the walls +of the temple were different representations of acts of +mercy that the goddess was supposed to have performed. +On the roof were dragons. The dragon is the Chinese +god of rain.</p> + +<p>"Leonard says I am to tell you that some of +the Celestials thought once that he was going to beat +them because he carried a walking-stick. Chinamen, +excepting policemen and mandarins, are only allowed +to carry them when they grow old.</p> + +<p>"We saw a very strange sort of show the other day, +called a shadow-show. A man, inside a kind of Punch +and Judy house, made, with the help of a lantern, all sorts +of figures, or rather, shadows, appear on the top of the +Punch and Judy. It looked so strange, but Leonard +said he thought the people looking at it were stranger +still, what with the hats they wore and the funny way +they did their hair. He declared one woman had horns. +I never saw such pretty lanterns as the Chinese have. +Father says that on the fifteenth day of their first month +(which is not always the same, as their New Year's +Day, like our Easter, is a movable feast regulated by +the moon) there is a feast of lanterns, when all people, +both on land and on the water, hang up most beautiful +lamps, some being made to look like animals, balls of +fire, or even like Kwan-Yin herself holding a child.</p> + +<p>"Is it not strange New Year's Day next year will be +on the twenty-ninth of January, and in 1882 on +February eighteenth?</p> + +<p>"I seem to have ever so much more to tell you, but +I am too tired now to write it. I am glad you liked +mother's pictures that I sent last time. I could only +write that one short letter in Formosa. We are going<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[152]</a></span> +on to Macao (it is pronounced Macow) the day after +to-morrow, then we stay at Canton, and then come +back here. It will be so dreadful when that time +comes, but I try not to think about it. Dear mother +does sometimes, I can see. We all went to the +Cathedral on Sunday.</p> + +<div class='sig'> +<span style="margin-right: 2em;">"I hope I shall soon have a long letter from you.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-right: 9em;">"Believe me, dear Lily,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-right: 4em;">"Always your affectionate friend,</span><br /> +"<span class="smcap">Sybil Graham</span>.<br /> +</div> + +<p>"<i>Hong-Kong, December, 1880.</i>"</p></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i-158.png" width="400" height="220" alt="Decoration: House with columns" title="" /> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[153]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i-159a.png" width="400" height="126" alt="Decoration: Bridge" title="" /> +</div> + + + + +<h2>CHAPTER IX.</h2> + +<div class='chaptertitle'>AT CANTON.</div> + + +<div class="figright" style="width: 189px;"> +<img src="images/i-159b.png" width="189" height="225" alt="Decoration: Boat on water" title="" /> +</div> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 58px;"> +<img src="images/i-120b-a.png" width="58" height="71" alt="A" title="" /> +</div><div class='unindent'> PASSENGER-BOAT conveyed +our little travellers, +and their parents, in three +days, from Hong-Kong to Macao, +a pretty little sea-side place at +the entrance of the Bocca Tigris, +a little gulf, to the head of which +is the city of Canton.</div> + +<p>Macao was not as full now as +it had been during the summer months, when many +people resort thither from Canton for change of air +and to enjoy the fresh sea-breezes. A beautiful walk, +called the Grand Parade, surrounds its picturesque bay.</p> + +<p>As Macao belongs to the Portuguese, a great many +of the inhabitants speak that language.</p> + +<p>Mr. and Mrs. Graham and their children stayed, +whilst at Macao, at the Grand Hotel, which was situated +on the Parade, where was also a very pretty jetty, on +which Sybil and Leonard liked very much to walk. +Here, again, the houses were painted. In a pretty +street close by the Grand Parade, protected on both +sides by walls, the Grahams were shown houses whose<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[154]</a></span> +windows used to have barriers of iron. These houses, +they were told, were a kind of prison, called Emigration +Agencies, but where in reality poor coolies were kept for +sale. This traffic had, happily, now been done away +with.</p> + +<p>Some of the houses in Macao seemed to be painted +all colours, and many of the windows were bordered +with red, the favourite colour. Most of the houses +could boast of large rooms. Not very much commerce +seemed to be carried on here. Leonard was one day +taken to pay the European troops a visit in their +garrison.</p> + +<p>At four o'clock in the afternoon many people walked +upon the Parade. Most of the Christians here were +Roman Catholics, which was natural, considering that +the place belonged to the Portuguese. Bells, calling +people to church, rang two or three times a day, and +these, and the bugle-call from the garrison, were the +principal sounds heard. It was interesting to visit +Macao, because here, in its quiet prettiness, the poet +Camoens, when banished, spent some of his lonely +years, and wrote a great part of his epic poem +"Lusiad;" and here also a French painter, named +Chinnery, had produced some of his pretty paintings +and sketches. Sybil was old enough to care about +such things, and to find both pleasure and interest +in visiting any places once made memorable by the +footprints left there of either good or great men; and +when she had heard the poet's story, she was very sorry +for him!</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/i-161.png" width="500" height="341" alt="MACAO." title="" /> +<span class="caption">MACAO.</span> +</div> + +<p>Camoens, who was the epic poet of Portugal, was +born in Lisbon in 1524. An epic poet is one who +writes narratives, or stories, which often relate heroic<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[156]</a></span> +deeds. When banished by royal authority to Santarem, +Camoens joined the expedition of John III. against +Morocco, and lost his right eye in an engagement +with the Moors in the Straits of Gibraltar. People +in Lisbon, who would not admire his poetry, now +thought nothing of his bravery. Sad and disappointed, +he went to India in 1553; but being offended by what +he saw the Portuguese authorities doing in India, he +wrote a satire about them, called "Follies in India," +and made fun of the Viceroy. For doing this, he was +banished to Macao in 1556, where he lived for six +years, writing "The Lusiad." On being recalled, he +was shipwrecked, and lost everything that he had in +the world but this epic poem, which he held in one hand +above the waves, while he swam to shore with the other; +and after suffering many misfortunes, he arrived in Lisbon +in 1569, possessed of nothing else. He dedicated his +poem to the young king Sebastian, who allowed him to +stay at the court, and gave him a pension. But when +Sebastian died he had nothing at all, and a faithful +Indian servant begged for him in the streets. At last +he died in the hospital at Lisbon, in 1579. Sixteen years +later Camoens was appreciated, and people hunted for his +grave, to erect a monument to his memory, but had +much difficulty even in finding it.</p> + +<p>The "Lusiad" celebrates the chief events in +Portugal's history, and has been called "a gallery of +epic pictures, in which all the great achievements of +Portuguese heroism are represented." The poem has +been translated into English, French, Italian, Spanish, +German, and Polish.</p> + +<p>After a short, but pleasant, stay at Macao, the +Grahams went on to Canton.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[157]</a></span></p> + +<p>"The last place but one," Sybil could not help +whispering to Leonard on board. "When we next +arrive—" she went on, but tears starting into her eyes +seemed to drown the rest of the sentence. However, +as some very happy weeks had yet to be passed at +Canton, neither she nor we must anticipate. A long +visit of two months was to be spent here at the residence +of a personal friend of Mr. Graham, the English +consul of the place.</p> + +<p>A servant was stationed on the steps leading round +to the Consulate, or Yamen, to await the arrival of +Mr. and Mrs. Graham and their children.</p> + +<p>This house was situated on a height, and occupied +the site of an ancient palace. It consisted of a suite of +buildings, surrounded on one side by a pretty garden, +and on the other by a park, in which deer grazed. +Both Sybil and Leonard thought the deer very pretty; +and quite near to the Yamen was a pagoda of nine +storeys, which the Emperor Wong-Ti, who reigned about +the middle of the sixteenth century, is supposed first to +have constructed.</p> + +<p>"How little," Sybil and Leonard said to one +another, "we ever thought, when we examined our +little ornamental pagodas at home, that we should ever +live quite near to a real one!"</p> + +<p>A story relating to this pagoda, being told to +Leonard, interested him a good deal.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 354px;"> +<img src="images/i-164.png" width="354" height="600" alt="THE ENGLISH CONSULATE AT CANTON." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE ENGLISH CONSULATE AT CANTON.</span> +</div> + +<p>In 1859 some English sailors climbed up the old +building, which was then in so tottering a condition +that it was a really perilous ascent, and when they +reached the top the Chinese were dreadfully angry, for +two reasons: first, because they looked upon it as +sacrilege; and secondly, because from the height the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[159]</a></span> +sailors could look down upon their houses, and the +Chinese dislike very much indeed to be overlooked, +especially by "barbarians."</p> + +<p>The consul and Leonard were soon very good friends, +and the elder friend very kindly did not weary of +answering questions put to him by the little boy.</p> + +<p>"Why is your house called a yamen?"</p> + +<p>"This word means the same as does consulate, the +official residence of the consul."</p> + +<p>"What are you here for?"</p> + +<p>The consul smiled. "To protect your interests and +those, commercial and otherwise, of every English citizen +resident here."</p> + +<p>"Who is that Jui-Lin of whom you have a picture? +and is he alive now?"</p> + +<p>"He died a few years ago, and was viceroy of +Canton. He made so good a governor that those +provinces over which he ruled generally prospered +under his administration. It is in a great measure +through his influence that peaceable relations have, +for some time, been established between China and +foreign countries. The Emperor Tau-Kwang, who +came to the throne in 1820, thought so well of him +that he made him one of his ministers. Later he became +general of the Tartar garrison at Canton, and soon +after he was made viceroy. He established order in +a very troublesome district, where he made the clan +villagers at last acknowledge some authority, and +so put the people and their property in much greater +security."</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 368px;"> +<img src="images/i-166.png" width="368" height="600" alt="JUI-LIN, LATE VICEROY OF CANTON." title="" /> +<span class="caption">JUI-LIN, LATE VICEROY OF CANTON.</span> +</div> + +<p>Leonard said Canton was the place for him, for here +he saw ships and fishing to perfection. In Canton alone, +the consul told him, it was estimated that 300,000<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[161]</a></span> +persons had their homes on the water. One Canton +boat-woman, in whose passenger-boat they travelled, +said that her husband went on shore during the day to +work, whilst she looked after the passengers; but he +seemed to be rather an exception, for most of the boat +population never went on shore at all, and as people on +land go to market to buy vegetables and other food, so +everything in this line, that they required, was brought, +by boat, to them. Then, besides boats, there were floating +islands, on which people lived, and these consisted +of rafts of bamboos fastened together, with a thick bed of +vegetable soil covering the rafts. Here the owners set +up houses, cultivated rice-fields, and kept tame cattle +and hogs. Swallows and pigeons here built their nests +in pretty surrounding gardens. Sails were put up on +the houses, and oars were often used to propel the +islands along. Women worked them frequently, with +their babies fastened to their backs; and little boys and +girls would here also play together, having smaller +brothers and sisters thus attached to them. These floating +islands, Sybil and Leonard were told, were to be +seen on almost all Chinese lakes. Many floating +houses were moored to one another.</p> + +<p>Sometimes the boat population made such a noise. +They seemed a good-natured set of people, but every +now and then they quarrelled, and this was done very +noisily. Then if a storm came on, they would call +out with fear. Those people who lived in river streets, +where their houses were close against the river, often +complained of the noise that they heard during the +night. The boat population are often looked down +upon by the Chinese who live on land, and may not +go in for the literary examinations.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[162]</a></span></p> + +<p>There were very many fishing villages about, +and nothing made Leonard happier than to be taken +to one or another of them; he was so fond of boats +of all kinds. Fishing-boats in China had to obtain a +license from Government. Some of these sailed two +and two abreast, at a distance, from one another, of +about three hundred feet, when a net was stretched +from ship to ship to enclose the fish. Names cut in +the boats had generally reference to good fortune. The +name on one, which Leonard had interpreted for him, +was "Good Success."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i-168.png" width="400" height="365" alt="CHINESE BOAT-WOMAN." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CHINESE BOAT-WOMAN.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 413px;"> +<img src="images/i-169.png" width="413" height="450" alt="A FISHING VILLAGE ON THE CANTON RIVER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A FISHING VILLAGE ON THE CANTON RIVER.</span> +</div> + +<p>In fishing as well as in other villages men go +about hawking things for sale, and carrying them, by +ship, from one village to another. In the bows of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[163]</a></span> +fishing vessels are large pairs of shears, which can be +either raised or lowered. A large dip-net, fastened to +the shears, is drawn up after remaining some time in +the water, when the fish it contains are emptied into +a little hole in the middle of the ship, like a large +cistern, into which fresh water flows. The fishermen +anchor their boats, and then lower their dip-nets into +the water by means of these shears, which are made +of bamboo, and attached to wooden platforms, resting<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[164]</a></span> +on posts. Huts are sometimes erected near the dip-nets, +so that the fishermen can shelter themselves from +the hot sun. A great deal of fishing with birds called +cormorants is also carried on in China, when one man +will, perhaps, take out a hundred birds to fish for him, +fastening something to their throats to prevent them +from swallowing the fish when caught. As they return +with them, they are given a little piece that they +can swallow.</p> + +<p>After young fish are caught, they are fed with paste +in the tanks, or wells, into which they are put, +and when they grow older little ponds are made for +them.</p> + +<p>Sybil and Leonard were taken very often on the +Canton river in all kinds of boats, both large and +small. In the stern of very many was an altar, concealed +generally behind a sliding door, but which, night +and morning, was drawn aside to admit the altar to +view, and display the images of household gods that +were upon it.</p> + +<p>Here were also small ancestral tablets, which were +regularly worshipped, and offerings of fruit and flowers +were constantly offered to the guardian god of the boat +and the tablets when they were worshipped. Tien-How, +Queen of Heaven, also called Ma-chu, and other names, is +much worshipped by sailors, but each boat has its special +guardian god. Incense is burnt night and morning at the +bow of the boat. The Grahams very often travelled in a +small ship called a sampan, which had a mat roofing +over the centre, and was driven forward, very frequently +by women, with two oars and a scull.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 418px;"> +<img src="images/i-171.png" width="418" height="500" alt="CHINESE FISHING." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CHINESE FISHING.</span> +</div> + +<p>"I have seen just the sort of thing for you to sketch, +mother," Sybil said one day. Like her mother, she<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[165]</a></span> +greatly admired what was beautiful, and now, with +her fellow-excursionists, the consul, her father, and +brother, returned home, from a ramble, very tired; "a +dear little pagoda, seven storeys high, very near to the +banks of the river, with mountains at the back and +trees near to it, and a little village in the distance; and +on the opposite side of the river we saw two men and a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[166]</a></span> +boy: the boy seemed to have a kite, but we thought it +belonged to one of the men, and he was just carrying it +for him."</p> + +<p>Mrs. Graham sometimes did not feel equal to long +expeditions, of which her children never grew tired, so +then she would remain at home, or walk through the +pretty gardens and park.</p> + +<p>The Canton, Chu-kiang, or Pearl River, has a great +many names and branches. The great western branch +is called Kan-kiang, the northern branch Pe-kiang, +or Pearl River, and the eastern one Tong-kiang. On +the western branch the children found themselves surrounded +by lovely mountain scenery. From Canton to +Whampoa it was called the Pearl River; from Whampoa +to Bocca Tigris, or Tiger's Mouth, Foo-mon; and beyond +Shek-moon towards Canton, the Covetous River. The +passage to Macao was the Wild Goose River. It was +some time before Sybil and Leonard could understand +anything at all about these divisions.</p> + +<p>One day, on the Pearl River, they came to a very +pretty spot, where the water was almost entirely land-locked +by high ranges of hills, and here they asked to +be allowed to remain stationary, for a little while, to look +about them.</p> + +<p>Another day they went very far indeed with their +father and mother, crossing the Fatchan River, where +Leonard heard, with interest, that Commodore Keppel +engaged in a memorable battle in 1857. The river +divides the town of Fatchan into two equal parts. Then +again they went so far that they could not even think +of returning home the same day, and stayed the night +on the road to a village called Wong-tong, which was +very countrified and pretty.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[167]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i-173.png" width="400" height="325" alt="PAGODA ON THE BANKS OF THE CANTON RIVER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">PAGODA ON THE BANKS OF THE CANTON RIVER.</span> +</div> + +<p>And once more they went—father, mother, and all—to +a place quite different from anything that they had yet +seen, which was the village of Polo-Hang. Here they +found themselves in the midst of vast plains, on the outskirts +of which were to be seen lovely-looking hills of +limestone and rows of wonderfully-shaped mountains. +Standing on one of these mountains, they had a capital +view of the Temple of Polo-Hang and its surroundings, +consisting of bare fields traversed by canals; and, at the +foot of the mountains of thickets of bamboo, whose light, +feathery branches swayed gently to and fro. Bamboo +was very largely cultivated here, and Sybil thought it +such a fairy-like growth. Must not this scene have +been very lovely? Sybil was so glad that her mother<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[168]</a></span> +had come to see it. Then other hills appeared, covered +with trees, and dotted here and there with temples.</p> + +<p>"Where <i>did</i> they all come from?" Leonard asked.</p> + +<p>Mr. Graham was looking very serious. This was +a scene calculated to leave a deep impression upon the +beholders.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/i-174.png" width="450" height="417" alt="ON THE CANTON RIVER" title="" /> +<span class="caption">ON THE CANTON RIVER</span> +</div> + +<p>"From the hand of God," he said very quietly.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i-175.png" width="600" height="361" alt="VILLAGE OF POLO-HANG IN CANTON." title="" /> +<span class="caption">VILLAGE OF POLO-HANG IN CANTON.</span> +</div> + +<p>A week later, Sybil wrote again to her friend.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<div class='right'> +"<i>Canton, January, 1881.</i><br /> +</div> + +<p>"<span class="smcap">My Dearest Lily</span>,—We saw such a strange sight +yesterday; and we could not help liking to see it, although, +of course, it was very dreadful. We went inside<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[170]</a></span> +a Buddhist temple at Canton. These temples are often +called joss-houses; this one was the Temple of Five +Hundred Gods. Fancy five hundred gods! and these +idols were all there, arranged in different lines. They +all seemed to look different, and some were dreadfully +ugly. I saw beards on a few of their faces. In the +part of the temple where, in a church, our altar would +be, there was a terrible-looking thing: I suppose a very +special god.</p> + +<p>"We saw one of the priests. He had his beads in +one hand, and a fan in the other. Some of the priests +are men who have committed great crimes, and have +escaped to a monastery and had their heads shaved, so +as not to be caught and punished.</p> + +<p>"Some of the idols were as large as if they were alive, +and they had their arms in all sorts of different positions. +Some held beads, and a few wore crowns; I think they +were disciples of Buddha. The buildings of the temple, +and the houses of the priests, were surrounded by lakes +and gardens.</p> + +<p>"We have been able to get you a picture of part of +the inside of the temple, so I send it to you; but +Leonard says that he thinks as you'll have the picture +(and he considers it a very good one) that you ought to +know that this temple is said to have been founded +about 520 years <span class="smcap">a.d</span>., and to have been rebuilt in 1755. +Fancy people wasting prayers before these images! +Isn't it a pity that they don't know better? There are +more than 120 temples, or joss-houses, in Canton.</p></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i-177.png" width="600" height="372" alt="THE TEMPLE OF THE FIVE HUNDRED GODS, CANTON." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE TEMPLE OF THE FIVE HUNDRED GODS, CANTON.</span> +</div> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"The Chinese never eat with knives and forks, but +with chop-sticks. These are generally small square +pieces of bamboo, as large as a penholder, which they +hold between the thumb and first finger of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[172]</a></span> +right hand. I can't eat with them at all, nor can +mother; and the other day, when she went out to +lunch with some Chinese ladies, they sent for a knife +and fork for her.</p> + +<p>"Chinese ladies in Canton never seem to be with +their husbands in public, and they never walk in the +streets with them. Some of them think us such +barbarous people because we are so different from what +they are.</p> + +<p>"The Chinese have such a funny way of paying +formal visits, that I think I must tell you about it. +They often go in sedan-chairs. Officers of the highest +rank may have eight bearers, people of less rank have +four, and ordinary people two. The state sedan-chair of +an official is covered with green cloth, and the fringe on +the roof and window-curtains has to be green too. So +much seems to go by rank in China. For the first three +ranks, the tips of poles may be of brass, in the form +of a dragon's head; the fourth and fifth rank would +have a lion's head. On the top of these chairs is a ball +of tin. Leonard and I can tell the chairs very well now. +Private gentlemen have blue cloth, and the ends of their +poles are tipped with plain brass.</p></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i-179.png" width="600" height="366" alt="AN OFFICIAL'S PALANQUIN." title="" /> +<span class="caption">AN OFFICIAL'S PALANQUIN.</span> +</div> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"Father says when an official calls upon another +official in Peking, his servant sends in his visiting card. +The official who is being called upon then sends out to +know how his visitor is dressed, and if he hears that it +is in full costume, he dresses himself in the same way, +and then goes to the entrance of the house, and asks his +visitor to get out of his carriage or chair, and come in. +As they pass through a door of the gate, the gentleman, +to whom the house belongs asks the visitor to go first, +but he always says 'No' until he has been asked three<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[174]</a></span> +times, and then he walks first to the reception-hall, when +the two stop again, and ask one another to go first. +When they have come into the hall, father says, they +kneel down, and knock their heads on the ground six +times. This is performing the kow-tow. When they +get up from this performance, the host arranges a chair +for the other, and asks him to sit down, but he must not +do this even till he has bowed again. I am sure I +should forget when I had to make all these bows, and +should be sure to do them at the wrong times.</p> + +<p>"After they have had a little talk, a servant is told +to make some tea. I suppose the host would then say +'Yam-cha' to the other, for this means 'Drink tea.' +Before either gentleman drinks, both bow again, and +soon afterwards the visitor gets up, and says, 'I want to +take my leave.' They walk together to the grand +entrance, but at every door-way the visitor has to bow, +and ask his friend not to come any farther, although of +course he must go, or it would not be polite. And then +he stands at the entrance door till the carriage has +driven off. The Chinese do bow so often, and little +children have to do it too.</p> + +<p>"The consul told Leonard that when school-boys go +to see their masters, they have to arrange the chair-cushions +for their masters and themselves. The boy +has to stand outside the visitor's hall till his master +comes, and when he has been asked to go in, he gives +him for a present a tael of silver, about 2s. 8d., which +he holds up with both his hands. Then he looks towards +the north, kneels, and knocks his head twice +upon the ground, when the master bows. The boy +asks how his teacher's parents are, who also asks after +the boy's. He then invites his little guest to sit down;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[175]</a></span> +but every time the boy is asked a question by his +teacher he has to stand up to answer it. When he +leaves, he goes to the entrance door by himself. At +school, the boys have to make a bow to the schoolmaster +whenever they go in and out of the room.</p> + +<p>"You asked me in your letter if people have very +many servants in China. Some have a very great +number. Ordinary Chinese gentlemen might have a +porter, two or three footmen, coolies for house-work, +sedan-chair bearers, and a cook. Women servants are +often bought by their masters. A rich man will have +sometimes twenty or thirty slaves. People called 'go-betweens' +generally buy them for the masters. We +have very few servants of our own now, as we are on a +visit. Mother's maid shows dear little Chu what to do. +Female slaves attend upon the ladies and children, and +we have often seen them carrying their mistresses with +small feet. It does look so funny. In good families, +father says, they are very well treated, but some maid-of-all-work +slaves often run away because they are so +unhappy.</p> + +<p>"Children are sometimes stolen to be slaves. +Great-grandsons of slaves can buy their freedom. I am +so glad I have my little Chu, because she cannot be +bought or sold now: father made that agreement. I +should not know nearly so much about the servants +and slaves if I had not wanted to know what might +have become of little Chu if we had not had her. +Sometimes servants stand in the streets to be hired.</p> + +<p>"In a suburb of Canton, in a street called the Taiping +Kai, we saw one morning a number of bricklayers, +journeymen, and carpenters, waiting to be hired. The +carpenters stand in a line on one side, and bricklayers<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[176]</a></span> +on the other. Father said they had been there since +five o'clock.</p> + +<p>"Another day we saw men carrying baskets, in which +they were collecting every bit of paper they could +find about the streets, which had been written upon. +The Chinese have such respect for every little piece of +paper, on which have been any Chinese characters, +that they will not allow any parcels even to be wrapped +up in them. When all these scraps have been collected, +they are burnt in a furnace, and the ashes are put +into baskets, carried in procession, and emptied into +a stream. Slips of paper are pasted on walls, telling +people to reverence lettered paper. Chinese characters are +called 'eyes of the sage;' and some people think that if +they are irreverent to the paper, they are so to the sages +who invented them, and they will perhaps, for a punishment, +be born blind in the next world.</p> +<div class="figright" style="width: 309px;"> +<img src="images/i-183.png" width="309" height="450" alt="WAITING TO BE HIRED." title="" /> +<span class="caption">WAITING TO BE HIRED.</span> +</div> + +<p>"Men become famous in China when they write +very beautifully. They write with a brush and Indian +ink. Father's teacher says there are three styles of +writing Chinese characters, and that the literature of +China is the first in Asia. A Chinaman writes from +right to left, and all the writing consists of signs or +characters. I cannot think how Chinese people understand +either their writing or their conversation. One +word will mean a number of things, and you know +which word they mean by the sound of the voice +and the stress on the word. Leonard asked the teacher +one day what soldier was in Chinese, and he said, +'ping;' but he also told him that 'ping' meant +ice, pancake, and other words too. 'Fu' is father, +and 'Mu' mother. They think we have no written +language.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[177]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Canton is entered by twelve outer, and four inner, +gates. The name means 'City of Perfection.' Leonard +and I are now going for a walk, with father, to the +Street of Apothecaries, and to-morrow we are to see a +bridal procession.</p></div> + + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"There are such a number of narrow streets in +Canton, and religious worship is carried on in the +open streets, in front of shrines; and before the +shops lighted sticks, called 'joss-sticks,' are put at dawn +and sunset. The natives live in the narrow streets.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[178]</a></span> +Those in the <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'Europeon'">European</ins> settlement, where we are, are +larger.</p> + +<p>"The ports, which are open to foreign commerce, +have European parts where the European inhabitants +live.</p> + +<div class='sig'> +<span style="margin-right: 4em;">"Always your affectionate</span><br /> +"<span class="smcap">Sybil Graham</span>."<br /> +</div></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/i-184.png" width="350" height="350" alt="A CHINESE WRITER " title="" /> +<span class="caption">A CHINESE WRITER </span> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[179]</a></span></p> + +<div class='center'> <table class="river" summary="river"> +<tr><td align='left'><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> +<br /><br /><br /><br /> + + + +<h2><span style="margin-left: 12em;">CHAPTER X.</span></h2> + +<div class='chaptertitle'><span style="margin-left: 15em;">A BRIDE AND BRIDEGROOM.</span></div> +</td> +</tr></table></div> + + + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 40px;"> +<img src="images/i-185b-t.png" width="40" height="69" alt="T" title="" /> +</div><div class='unindent'>HE Street of Apothecaries +was no exception to the +general rule that Sybil +had laid down. It also was very narrow, and, like +many other streets in Canton, was so covered over at +the top that in walking through it the sun did not burn +too fiercely, neither did the rain fall upon the passers-by.</div> + +<p>The shops opened right upon the street, which was +very gay indeed with sign-boards. Just in front of +the shops were granite counters, on which goods were +shown to purchasers.</p> + +<p>Many of the sign-boards rested on granite pedestals. +On one side of each shop was a little altar, dedicated to +the god of wealth, or the god supposed to preside over +the special trade carried on within. Every heathen +Chinese merchant and shopkeeper has some little spot +set apart for this worship, although all the shops have +not an altar, but many only a piece of red paper pasted +upon a wall, on which the characters meaning "god of +wealth" are written, and before which incense and +candles are burnt. Every day, as soon as the shop +is opened, worship is paid to this divinity.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[180]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 332px;"> +<img src="images/i-186.png" width="332" height="600" alt="THE STREET OF APOTHECARIES, CANTON." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE STREET OF APOTHECARIES, CANTON.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[181]</a></span></p> + +<p>The counters and shelves inside these hongs were +very handsome. The accountant's desk was at the end +of the hong, and here again the red colour was not +absent, for the scales and weights of the shop were +covered with cloth of that hue.</p> + +<p>Beggars (some miserably and scantily dressed) are +very numerous in China, people making quite a +profession of begging, when they visit shops in companies, +and there make a great disturbance until they +receive what they demand. These beggars are often +governed by a head-man, who was really first appointed +to rule over them by the mandarin, to save +himself trouble. A head-man will sometimes make an +agreement with a hong proprietor, that if he will pay +a sum of money down beggars shall not molest him; +and when he agrees to this, a notice on red paper, +stating the arrangement made, is hung up in the shop, +after which any native beggar applying for aid can be +shown this, turned out of the hong, and upon refusing to +go, he can be beaten. But unless such an arrangement +has been made, beggars may neither be beaten nor +turned out of a shop, whatever annoyance they may offer, +unless they steal, or break some other law. Therefore +it is that poor shop-keepers feel themselves bound to +pay money in order to avoid such annoyance. When +the head-man is paid a sum of money, he is supposed +to divide it amongst his band.</p> + +<p>"I never heard such a shame!" Leonard exclaimed, +when he saw one of these beggars very troublesome +in the Street of Apothecaries, and heard the law with +regard to them. "I wish I were a mandarin. I'd +very soon put a stop to poor shop-keepers being so +persecuted."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[182]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 180px;"> +<img src="images/i-188.png" width="180" height="550" alt="A BEGGAR." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A BEGGAR.</span> +</div> + + + +<p>That evening both +Sybil and Leonard, feeling +tired, went very early to +bed, as they wanted to +be up in very good time +in the morning, so as to +see the whole of the bridal +procession, for the bridegroom +sends very early +indeed in the morning +for his bride. The bridal-chair +which he sends for +her is often painted red. +The one which the Grahams +saw was of this +colour, and over the door +were also strips of red +paper. Before the bride +took her seat in the sedan, +which was brought into +the reception-room of her +home for her, she having +eaten nothing that morning, +and having kow-towed +very often to her +parents, they covered her +head and face with a thick +veil, so that she could not +be seen. The floor, from +her room to the sedan, was +covered with red carpet. +When in the sedan, four +bread-cakes were tossed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[183]</a></span> +into the air by one of the bridesmaids as an omen +of good fortune. In front of the procession two +men carried large lighted lanterns, having the family +name of the bridegroom, cut in red paper, and pasted on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[184]</a></span> +them. Then came two men bearing the family name of +the bride, who were, however, only to go part of the +way. Other men followed, some carrying a large red +umbrella, others torches, and again some playing a band +of music. Near the bridal-chair brothers or friends of +the bride walked. Half-way between the two houses +the friends of the bridegroom met the bride, and as they +approached the procession stopped.</p> +<div class="figright" style="width: 314px;"> +<img src="images/i-189.png" width="314" height="500" alt="BRIDESMAIDS" title="" /> +<span class="caption">BRIDESMAIDS</span> +</div> +<p>The children were very much interested in watching +what happened next. The bride's friends brought out a +large red card, on which was written the bride's family +name, and the other party produced a similar one, bearing +that of the bridegroom. These were exchanged with +bows. The two men at the head of the procession then +walked, with their lanterns, between the sedan-chair and +the lantern-bearers, who carried the bride's family name, +and returned to their places in front, when the bride's +party turned round and went back to her father's house, +carrying home her family name, she being supposed to +have now taken that of her husband. Even her +brothers went back also, and then the band played a +very lively air whilst the rest of the procession took her +on.</p> + +<p>Fireworks were let off along the road, and a great +many outside the bridegroom's door when the bride +arrived. Her bridesmaids, who have to keep with her +throughout the day, accompanied the procession.</p> + +<p>As the sedan-chair was taken into the reception-room, +the torch-bearers and musicians stayed near the +door, and where it was put down the floor was again +covered with red carpet. The bridegroom then came +and knocked at the bridal door, but a married woman +and a little boy, holding a mirror, asked the bride to get<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[185]</a></span> +out. Her bridesmaids helped her to alight. The mirror +was supposed to ward off evil influences.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 372px;"> +<img src="images/i-191.png" width="372" height="500" alt="BRIDE AND BRIDEGROOM." title="" /> +<span class="caption">BRIDE AND BRIDEGROOM.</span> +</div> + +<p>Sometimes, much for the same purpose, a bride is +carried over a charcoal fire on a servant's back, but this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[186]</a></span> +was not done on this occasion. All this time the bride's +face was hidden by her veil. She was then taken into a +room, where the bridegroom was waiting for her, and here +they sat down together for a few minutes, without speaking +a word. Sometimes the bridegroom sits on a high +stool, while the bride throws herself down before him, to +show that she considers man superior to woman.</p> + +<p>He then went into the reception-room, where he +waited for his bride to come to worship his ancestral +tablets with him. A table was put in front of the room, +on which were two lighted candles and lighted incense. +Two goblets, chop-sticks, white sugar-cocks, and other +things were on the table, when the bride and bridegroom +both knelt four times, bowing their heads towards the +earth. This was called "worshipping heaven and earth." +The ancestral tablets were on tables at the back, on +which were also lighted candles and incense. Turning +round towards the tablets, they worshipped them eight +times, and then facing one another, they knelt four +times.</p> + +<p>Wedding wine was now drunk, and the bride and +bridegroom ate a small piece from the same sugar-cock, +which was to make them agree.</p> + +<p>The thick veil was now taken off the bride, but her +face was still partly hidden by strings of pearl hanging +from a bridal coronet.</p> + +<p>It often happens that the bridegroom now sees his +bride for the first time, the two fathers having perhaps +planned the marriage, asked a fortune-teller's advice, +sent go-betweens to make all the necessary arrangements, +chosen a lucky day, without the bride or bridegroom +having a voice in the matter. This was the case +with the young couple, a great part of whose wedding<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[187]</a></span> +ceremony Sybil and Leonard had witnessed. Both +Chinese boys and girls marry sometimes when they are +sixteen years of age; these were very little older.</p> + +<p>Many other ceremonies had to take place, such +as kneeling very often before the bridegroom's parents, +when at last it was time for the bride's heavy outer +garments to be taken off, together with her head-dress, +so that her hair could be well arranged; but she was not +allowed to eat anything at all at the wedding dinner. +Indeed, on her wedding-day, she is hardly expected to +touch food at all.</p> + +<p>Many people came in to see her, and on this day +she must be quite natural, and wear no rouge at all. +She has to stand up quietly to be looked at, blessed, and +have remarks made upon her appearance. Presents are +sent to the bridegroom's family. For three days the +bride's parents send her food, as she may not, during +that time, eat what her husband provides. In some +districts of the province of Canton the bride leaves her +husband, and goes home again for a time after she is +married, but after marriage she is generally considered +to belong almost entirely to her husband's family, in a +wing of whose house she lives with him, and to whose +parents she is supposed to help him to be filial. On +many other days the ancestral tablets have to be +worshipped by the bride and bridegroom, and amongst +other gods and goddesses, those of the kitchen have +adoration paid to them.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i-194.png" width="600" height="358" alt="AT A CHINESE FARM." title="" /> +<span class="caption">AT A CHINESE FARM.</span> +</div> + +<div class="blockquot"><br /><div class='right'> +"<i>Canton, February, 1881.</i><br /> +</div> + +<p>"<span class="smcap">My Dearest Lily.</span>—Father took us to a lovely +farm the other day" (Sybil wrote in another letter), +"where we saw a little donkey, who was so well cared +for that he seemed like one of the family. Leonard and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[189]</a></span> +I fed him for some time. We both thought that the +farm-house was something like a Swiss cottage. +Father said the walls were made of clay, and on these +walls were scrolls, which were supposed to have power +to keep the fox and wild cat away.</p> + +<p>"There were a few bullocks and cows here, but not +many; their stalls were quite near to the house. We +liked the village, to which we went, very much, and it +was surrounded by high trees. Father says that the +stables of the Chinese are like cart-sheds, but each +stable has an altar in honour of the ruler of horses. +In this city there is a large temple to this god.</p> + +<p>"We saw a number of bean, pea, rice, and cotton-fields, +and had some sugar-cane given us to eat. +Sugar-cane is grown in Canton, and we had some bean-curds +to drink. We liked them very much. Mother +says she was told that they were made in Canton overnight, +and generally sold very early in the morning. +The beans are ground to flour, which is strained, and +then boiled slowly for an hour. I wonder if you would +like it?</p> + +<p>"The Chinese are so fond of sugar-cane, and it grew +in China before it grew anywhere else. Ever so many +fruits and vegetables grow also in China, but there +seem to be more rice-fields than any other. I will +tell you a few of the vegetables: sweet potatoes, yams, +tomatoes, cabbages, lettuces, turnips, and carrots; and +some fruits are apricots, custard-apples, rose-apples, +dates, oranges, pomegranates, melons, pumpkins, and +ever so many others. Canton is in the tropics, but +it is not hot here in the winter. There are such pretty +water-lilies here, not only white, but also red and red-and-white. +The Chinese look upon this lily as a sacred<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[190]</a></span> +plant. Some shop-keepers use the leaves, in which to +wrap up things, instead of paper.</p> + +<p>"Chinese people do very funny things. Because they +think that their birds sometimes like change of air, +they carry their cages out of doors with them for a +walk. But I do so wish that they did not eat dogs! +You see them being sold in the shops, and in one district +of Canton a fair is held, where they are regularly sold +for food. Many people like black dogs best. At the +beginning of summer nearly everybody eats dog's flesh, +when a ceremony takes place. If people eat it, they +think that it will keep them from being ill in the summer. +I am glad, for that reason, that I shall not be +here in June, as the dogs are cruelly beaten the day +before they are killed. Fancy, poor little things! I +suppose that is to bring luck too! And yet the Cantonese +think that they displease the gods when they eat +dog's flesh, and we have seen it written on Buddhist +temples that people ought not to eat 'their faithful +guardians.'</p> + +<p>"The Cantonese must not go into a temple to worship +till they have been three whole days without eating +any dog. One of the 'boys' here—he is a footman; but +in China all these sort of people are called 'boys'—eats +rats. He says he is getting bald, and if he eats them +his hair will grow again. Horses are sometimes eaten +too; and worms that spoil the rice-fields, father told me, +are sent to the markets and sold to be eaten. Isn't that +nasty? And a kind of swallow's nest is eaten even by +ladies. It is lined with feathers, which are first removed; +then it is scraped, washed, and pulled to pieces, +when it looks white. People say it is something like +blancmange. I should not like to eat it. Does it not<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[191]</a></span> +seem greedy, when people have so much to eat, to take +poor little birds'-nests which have been made with such +pains by their owners?</p> + +<p>"There is a bird in China that has such a long tail: it +is called the Golden Pheasant. The feathers of the cock +bird are most beautiful. His throat and breast are like +purple velvet, and his back looks like gold. The upper +part of his very long tail is scarlet, and the rest yellow. +When this pheasant lifts his head and neck-feathers he +shows such a tuft!</p> + +<p>"There are a good many deer in China, which are +also supposed to bring good fortune. Some Chinese are +very cruel to animals. We have seen them carrying +pigs, ducks, and geese fastened to a pole, hanging with +their heads downwards; and some of their dogs look so +hungry, and their beasts of burden so tired. We saw a +dreadful thing one day, almost too dreadful to write +about—a poor little dog running yelping through the +streets with its tail cut off! A Taouist priest had cut +it off, so that it should run screaming through all the +house in which evil spirits were supposed to be, because +this would drive them out; then the poor little dog +rushed into the streets, where we saw it, and, fortunately, +father was near enough to have it killed at once.</p> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 360px;"> +<img src="images/i-199.png" width="360" height="600" alt="CHINESE LADIES." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CHINESE LADIES.</span> +</div> +<p>"The people listen more to father than they do to +many missionaries, because he goes to the dispensary and +helps to cure them when they are ill.</p> + +<p>"I forgot to tell you that when we first went to +the farm nobody saw us, because the farmer, his wife, +daughter, and a labourer were all listening to a man +reading to them. We thought he must have got hold +of some of the Chinese classics. The pigeon-English +people talk sometimes is so funny. They are so fond<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[192]</a></span> +of the word 'piecee.' Instead of 'one child,' they say +'one piecee chilo;' and if they had many children, I +expect they would say 'piecee muchee.'</p> + +<p>"Leonard makes very good shots at pigeon-English, +and can talk it much better than I can. What we +generally do is to put 'ee' at the end of our words; +but when we spoke to the farmer he could not understand, +and so said, 'You talkee me. Very good +talkee.' When he wanted to tell us that his house was +very large, he said, 'Number one largee, handsome +howsow;' and for 'There is a child up-stairs,' he said, +'Have got chilo topside.'</p> + +<p>"You asked me how the Chinese dressed, so I must +try to tell you this, although I have written you such a +long letter already.</p></div> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 316px;"> +<img src="images/i-200.png" width="316" height="400" alt="A VILLAGER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A VILLAGER.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 314px;"> +<img src="images/i-201.png" width="314" height="400" alt="A COOLIE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A COOLIE.</span> +</div> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"Gentlemen and ladies seem to dress very much +alike; and people cannot change their clothes as they +choose, because there is a minister of ceremonies, who +says of what colour, stuff, and shape things are to be +made, and when winter and summer things are to be +changed. Even a head-dress may not be altered as +people like, or they might be breaking a law. And it +is so funny about the nails; some people let some of +their nails grow as long as they can, and are so proud +when they are very long. No Chinaman wears a beard +till he is forty. The outside robe of a gentleman is so +long that it reaches to his ankles, and it is fastened with +buttons. The sleeves are first broad, and then get +narrower and narrower. A sash is tied round his +waist, and from this chop-sticks, a tobacco-case, fans, +and such-like things hang. The head-dress is a cap +with a peak at the top. Men do not take off their +hats to bow; indeed, they would put them on if they<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[194]</a></span> +were off. In-doors they wear silk slippers, pointed and +turned up at the toes. Chinese men are admired when +they are stout, and women when they are thin. Women +also have two robes, the top one often being made of +satin, and reaching from the chin to the ground. Their +sleeves are so long that they do instead of gloves. They +always wear trousers, and often carry a pipe, for women +smoke a great deal in China. Some, I think, are +pretty. They have rather large eyes and red lips.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[195]</a></span> +Old ladies wear very quiet clothes. Mother says the +Chinese are not at all clean people, and ought to change +their clothes much oftener than they do. People wear +shoes of silk, or cotton, with thick felt soles. The women +spend hours having their hair done into all sorts of +shapes, such as baskets, bird-cages, or anything they and +their amahs can manufacture. Then besides ornaments +in their hair, they wear ear-rings and bangles. Even +boat-women wear these; and the ladies almost always<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[196]</a></span> +paint their faces, to do which they have a kind of +enamel. Chinese ladies have little useful occupation, +and spend a great part of their time, mother says, when +they are not doing embroidery, in gambling and adorning +themselves.</p> + +<p>"The peasants wear a coarse linen shirt, covered by +a cotton tunic, with thin trousers fastened to the ankles. +In wet and cold weather they make a useful covering +of net-work, into which are plaited rushes, or coarse +dry grass, and they put on very large hats, made in the +same way. The Chinese are not at all lazy people, +for father says after their shutters are shut, and all +looks dark from the outside, they are often at work, +and they get up early too. When men grow old their +tails get so thin. I saw such a wrinkled old man the +other day, with hardly any tail at all. I think he must +have been very sorry about that; he was an old villager.</p> + +<p>"Coolies wear their tails twisted round their heads. +They do all the heavy work, and are porters, common +house labourers, and sedan-chair bearers.</p> + +<p>"Leonard says if I write any more stuff he is sure +you will not read it; but I hope you will think it +interesting stuff, at all events, and, therefore, not mind +my letter being so long. There seems to be so much +to tell you when you have not been to China, and it +seems selfish to keep all the pleasure of seeing such +new things to myself. I meant to tell you about the +New Year, which we have just kept, but I have not +room. I hope you will write to me very soon. We <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'al'">all</ins> +send love to you, and</p> + +<div class='sig'> +<span style="margin-right: 6em;">"Believe me,</span><br /> +"Your very affectionate friend,<br /> +<span style="margin-right: 2em;">"<span class="smcap">Sybil Graham</span>."</span><br /> +</div></div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[197]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i-203a.png" width="400" height="204" alt="Decoration: Between two mountains" title="" /> +</div> + + + + +<h2>CHAPTER XI.</h2> + +<div class='chaptertitle'>PROCESSIONS.</div> + + +<div class="figright" style="width: 200px;"> +<img src="images/i-203b.png" width="200" height="178" alt="Decoration: Carrying water" title="" /> +</div> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 58px;"> +<img src="images/i-120b-a.png" width="58" height="71" alt="A" title="" /> +</div><div class='unindent'> FORTNIGHT later Mr. +Graham saw a large, +Leonard a small, portion +of a funeral procession, and Sybil +was very anxious afterwards to +hear all about it, for Leonard had +told her that it seemed even grander than the marriage +one.</div> + +<p>"Please, father," she said, "tell me all that the +Chinese do when anybody dies."</p> + +<p>"I do not think I could tell you all," was her +father's reply, "because it would take too long, and +I do not know all myself; but I dare say I can tell you +quite enough to satisfy your curiosity. When a +Chinese thinks that a relation is likely to die soon, +he places him, with his feet towards the door, on a +bed of boards, arranging his best robes and a hat, or +cap, quite close to him, that he may be dressed in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[198]</a></span> +these just before he dies. It would be considered a +dreadful thing if he were to die without putting them +on. Soon after he is dead, a priest—usually a priest +of Taou—is called in to ask the spirit to make haste +to Elysium, and to cast the man's horoscope, so as to +see how far the spirit has got on its journey."</p> + +<p>"What does casting his horoscope mean?"</p> + +<p>"Finding out the hour of a man's birth, and then +foretelling events by the appearance of the heavens. +More clothes are then put upon the dead man, who, +if he be a person of rank, would wear three silk robes. +Gongs are beaten, and when the body is placed in its +coffin, every corner of the room is beaten with a +hammer, to frighten away bad spirits. A crown is +also put on any person of rank. Widows and children, +to show their grief, sit on the floor instead of +on chairs for seven days, and sleep on mats near to +the husband and father's coffin. On the seventh day +letters are written to friends, informing them of the +death, when they send presents of money to help to +defray the funeral expenses. I saw a very strange +letter of thanks yesterday, a copy of which had been +sent to each giver of a present, and besides money, +food is sometimes given or priests are sent. The +letter, as far as I can remember, ran thus: 'This is +to express the thanks of the orphaned son, who weeps +tears of blood, and bows his head; of the mourning +brother, who weeps and bows his head; of the mourning +nephew, who wipes away his tears and bows his +head.' Then a letter is also written to the departed, +and burnt, that it may reach him, whilst cakes and +other presents are also sent to him by means of burning.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/i-205.png" width="350" height="600" alt="MEN ENGAGED TO WALK IN FUNERAL PROCESSIONS." title="" /> +<span class="caption">MEN ENGAGED TO WALK IN FUNERAL PROCESSIONS.</span> +</div> + +<p>"On the twenty-first day after death a banquet<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[200]</a></span> +is prepared in honour of the spirit, which is supposed, +on that day, to come back to his home, when the +entrance doors are shut, for fear any one should come +in and vex the spirit. On the twenty-third day three +large paper birds are put on high poles in front of +the house, to carry the soul to Elysium; and for +three days Buddhist priests pray to the ten kings of +Buddhist hell to hasten the flight of the departed +soul to the Western Paradise.</p> + +<p>"The coffin is kept in the house for seven weeks, +where an altar is set up, near to which the tablet and +portrait of the deceased are put. Banners, which are looked +upon as letters of condolence, are fixed upon the walls, +and on these the merits of the dead man are inscribed.</p> + +<p>"Pictures of the three Buddhas are also to be seen +in the house. A lucky place and day have then to be +fixed, by fortune-tellers, for the burial, and should these +not be forthcoming, the coffin would be placed on a +hill till they can be found. Burial is considered of +so much importance, that should a man be drowned +his spirit would be called back into a figure of wood +or paper, and buried with pomp. Before the grave-diggers +begin their work, members of the family +worship the genii of the mountain, and write letters +to these gods, asking them to be so kind as to allow +the funeral to take place."</p> + +<p>"But how are these letters made to 'arrive?'"</p> + +<p>"They are set on fire and burnt."</p> + +<p>"Leonard says he saw a number of people dressed +in white in the procession."</p> + +<p>"Those were the relatives in deep mourning, +white, you remember, being the deepest, white and blue +lesser, mourning."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[201]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 358px;"> +<img src="images/i-207.png" width="358" height="600" alt="CHE-YIN." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CHE-YIN.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[202]</a></span></p> + +<p>"And he says he is sure he saw his friend Che-Yin +among the mourners. You know, father, Che-Yin is +really a great friend of Leonard's, though he is so much +older than himself, and now he is taking great trouble +to teach him to play on the musical instrument which +he plays so well himself. I believe if Leonard were +going to stay longer here he would really learn to play +it quite well. Is it not kind of Che-Yin? But I must +not interrupt you any more," Sybil went on, "and this +is so interesting. Leonard said he wondered so much +what could be happening once when he heard a tremendous +noise, and saw people rushing out into the +streets screaming."</p> + +<p>"I think I know what that meant," was the +missionary's answer. "On the day of burial the relatives +weep and lament very loudly. They carry a long +white streamer, called a soul-cloth, to the ancestral hall, +for the spirit to say 'Good-bye' to its ancestors. At +three or four o'clock in the morning all decorations, +that have been put up in front of the door, are taken +down, and a banquet is made ready, of which the +spirit is invited to partake. You remember I told you +that they believe one spirit is buried with the body. +Well, some kind of paper is now again burnt, while +the spirit is asked to accompany the body, and the +tablet and portrait of the dead man are put in a +sedan-chair by his eldest son, over the top of which +is a streamer of red satin, on which his name and +titles are written.</p> + +<p>"Distant relations remain standing out in the +streets; but I expect what Leonard saw was people +rushing out of the house, dreadfully frightened, for fear +that after all the day might not be lucky, and the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[203]</a></span> +spirit should be vexed, and send trouble to them, in +consequence.</p> + +<p>"As the coffin is brought out offerings are also again +presented to the spirit. Two men walk first, carrying +large lanterns, on which are written the name, title, +and age of the man who has died. Then come two +other men with a gong, which they beat from time +to time."</p> + +<p>"Leonard heard that."</p> + +<p>"Then follow musicians, and behind these some men +walk with flags, others with red boards, on which are +inscribed, in golden letters, the titles of the ancestors of +the deceased."</p> + +<p>"Then Leonard saw some gold canopies and sedan-chairs."</p> + +<p>"Offerings made to the dead are carried under gilded +canopies, and these canopies also follow the ancestral +tablets. The portrait of the dead man is in one sedan-chair, +and his wooden tablet in another.</p> + +<p>"I believe somewhere about here are more musicians, +then comes a man scattering pieces of paper fastened to +tinfoil. This is supposed to be mock-money for hungry +ghosts, the souls of those people who have died at corners +of the streets, and this money is to make peace with +them, so that they shall not injure the soul of the man +now being buried. The eldest son carries a staff, whilst +a person walks on either side to support him."</p> + +<p>"But Leonard said he saw a white cock, when he +could not help laughing. What could this be for?"</p> + +<p>"The cock is also carried to call the soul to go with +the body. Behind the eldest son comes the bier, carried +by men or drawn by horses.</p> + +<p>"Many other persons follow. All the people that can,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[204]</a></span> +go in the procession. Women with small feet, unless +carried on their slaves' backs, can only go a short way. +At the grave, grains of rice are scattered over the coffin, +when the priest and all the people lift the cock and +bend their bodies forward three times. The tablet is +taken out of the chair, on which the nearest relation +makes a mark with a red pencil; then the sons kneel +down, and a priest, if present, addresses them."</p> + +<p>"Then a priest is not obliged to go to the funeral?"</p> + +<p>"No; sometimes only a man skilled in geomancy is +present. Geomancy is a kind of foretelling things, by +means of little dots first made on the ground and then +on paper. The tablet is marked, I believe, to bring +good luck to the sons, and then every one knocks his +head on the ground and does homage to it."</p> + +<p>Sybil was looking very serious, though she was +smiling too.</p> + +<p>"Oh, father!" she said, "how much you, and other +missionaries, will have to teach these people! What a +pity it is that they cannot know that the soul is never +buried, and that they can't learn to worship and pray to +God, Who would send them such real happiness in +answer to their prayers!"</p> + +<p>"It is indeed, my child," was the missionary's +answer.</p> + +<p>"And is anything more done for the dead after +this except worship being paid to them?"</p> + +<p>"Yes; for many days feasts are prepared for the +departed relative, hot water is carried to him to wash +his face and hands, and I have also heard of another +way that the Chinese have of 'conveying' spirits to +the kingdoms of Buddhistic hell. Little sedan-chairs +are made of bamboo splints and paper, with four<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[205]</a></span> +little paper bearers, and sometimes there is a fifth little +paper man, holding an umbrella. These are burnt like +the paper mock-money; and sometimes, after the death +of another friend, a little paper trunk, full of paper +clothes, is supplied for one already dead, and burnt, +when the senders believe that the person who died last +is conveying this trunk to the other in safety for them."</p> + +<p>"They think that people need a great many things +in the other world, then," Sybil said. "And do children +often worship at their parents' tombs?"</p> + +<p>"Yes; at certain seasons of the year they make +pilgrimages to the tops of high hills, or to other distant +parts, where they prostrate themselves, this being supposed +to continue the homage and reverence which they +showed to them on earth; and they believe that in a +great measure the happiness of the spirits depends upon +the adoration and worship which they pay to them, whilst +those who render it secure for themselves favour from +the gods. Twice a day do children also pay adoration +to their dead parents, before a shrine set up in the +house to the memory of departed ancestors."</p> + +<p>"But what is the use of preparing feasts for the +dead?" Sybil asked. "They cannot think that the +dead really eat the food?"</p> + +<p>"They seem to do so, and not only lay a place for +them, but even put chop-sticks for their use."</p> + +<p>Another procession Sybil and Leonard saw one day, +and this Sybil described in the last letter that she wrote +to her friend, before she left China. Some men carried +an image of the Dragon King, others carried gongs, +drums, and green and black and yellow and white flags, +whilst boys, walking in the procession, called out loudly +from time to time.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[206]</a></span></p> + +<p>The children could not possibly imagine what this +procession could be all about.</p> + +<p>Some characters were written on the flags.</p> + +<p>One man who, as Leonard thought, had a very happy, +smiling face, had a pole slung across his shoulders, from +which hung two buckets of water. In his hand he held +a green branch of a shrub which, from time to time, he +dipped in the water, and then sprinkled the ground; +while he also continually called out something. Other +men were carrying sticks of lighted incense. Most of the +people, in the procession, wore white clothes, and white +caps without tassels.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 304px;"> +<img src="images/i-212.png" width="304" height="300" alt="SPRINKLING WATER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SPRINKLING WATER.</span> +</div> + +<p>Sybil and Leonard were afterwards told that this +was praying for rain, because for some time there had +been none.</p> + +<p>The Dragon King was carried, because he is supposed +to be the god of rain. Besides the Dragon King +there is a River Dragon, who is both feared and worshipped.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[207]</a></span> +His mother, Loong-Moo, is often worshipped +by people engaged in river traffic.</p> + +<p>The men and boys were calling out "Rain comes!" +The yellow and white banners were to represent wind +and water, and the green and black, clouds.</p> + +<p>The inscription on the flags was, when translated, +"Prayer is offered for rain."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i-213.png" width="400" height="192" alt="Decoration" title="" /> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[208]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i-214a.png" width="400" height="175" alt="Decoration: Building" title="" /> +</div> + + + + +<h2>CHAPTER XII.</h2> + +<div class='chaptertitle'>THE LAST PEEP.</div> + + +<div class="figright" style="width: 208px;"> +<img src="images/i-214b.png" width="208" height="350" alt="Decoration: Woman" title="" /> +</div> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 46px;"> +<img src="images/i-214c-s.png" width="46" height="70" alt="S" title="" /> +</div><div class='unindent'>YBIL had made several +friends amongst Cantonese +ladies and children, and +some very pleasant afternoons +had she spent with them. The +girls, she noticed, generally +wore cotton tunics and trousers. +One little girl, with whom she +had spent a few hours, was in +mourning, so she wore white, +bound with blue. Sybil could +not help thinking that this was +very pretty mourning, but her +brother's was still prettier, for +his trousers were of pale blue silk tied round the ankles, +and he wore white shoes. His cue was tied with blue. +And there were such very pretty gardens belonging to +the houses in which they lived, with rockeries, fish-ponds, +and summer-houses almost large enough to live in.</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[209]</a></span></p> + +<p>One lady, whom Sybil visited, astonished her very +much, because she had an only boy, who was very pale-looking +and delicate, and she called him all sorts of +names, and seemed to treat him so unkindly. When +Sybil had been ill herself, her mother had always treated +her with such extra love and care, and she fancied that +all mothers behaved like this. Then the Chinese love +their boys so much, that one would therefore have +thought an only boy would be so very precious. The +next time that she saw the lady she had given away +her child to be adopted by some one else. Mrs. +Graham heard the explanation to this unnatural conduct, +and gave it to Sybil. The woman really loved +her boy most fondly, and would have given anything she +had to have him well, but she fancied that the gods +were malicious towards him, and that if she pretended to +them that she did not care for the child they would let +him get well again. All that conduct was to deceive +the gods.</p> + +<p>Mr. Graham had several times dined out at Chinese +houses, and sometimes his wife had accompanied him, +but as Cantonese ladies never dine with their husbands +in public, where her doing so was likely to give any +offence, even though she were invited, she never went; +but many Chinese very well understand that there are +quite different laws for Europeans than there are for them, +and these seemed to be glad to admit English ladies, with +their husbands, to be guests at their houses.</p> + +<p>When Mr. and Mrs. Graham went to one of these +dinners, knives and forks were borrowed for them, +and the other English visitors, in place of chop-sticks. +A china spoon and a two-pronged fork were set before +each person, and there were china wine-glasses. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[210]</a></span> +table-napkins were of brown paper. Basins of fruit, +from which all helped themselves as they liked, +were in the middle of the table. There were a +great many soups and other courses. Every now and +then the host took something out of a basin with his +chop-stick, and offered to put it into the mouths of his +guests. Out of politeness they were bound to accept +these gifts. There was not any beef, as no Chinaman +eats beef. Music was played, and slaves fanned the +people during dinner.</p> + +<p>Once when Sybil visited some of her young +Chinese friends, the tea was brought in to them in +covered cups, and when they wanted more, tea-leaves +were put into the cups and boiling water was poured +upon them. She had learnt now to be able to drink tea +without milk or sugar, but she could not like it.</p> + +<p>A two months' stay at Canton brought the children +to the end of four months and a half of their stay in +China, and left but six weeks more before they were to +return to England. It was the middle of March when +the Grahams said "Good-bye" to their kind friends +at the Yamen, and returned to Hong-Kong. Sybil +could not bear to say this farewell, as it was the last +but one, and she knew how very quickly six weeks +would pass.</p> + +<p>They had all enjoyed their stay in Canton very +much, and often thought about the New Year's Day +which had been kept, while they were there, with such +grand rejoicings. At midnight, on the last day of the +old year, a bell, never used except on this occasion, +pealed forth, when, at the signal, people rushed into +the streets in crowds to let off fireworks.</p> + +<p>Every temple and every pagoda was lighted up, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[211]</a></span> +people burnt incense before idols in their own homes. +Some streets are lighted in Canton by lanterns, but, +as a rule, the smaller streets are in darkness, with +the exception of paper lanterns, which hang, every now +and then, from before shops or private houses, and even +these are put out by half-past nine o'clock. Paraffin lamps +are now being introduced along Chinese city streets.</p> + +<p>All New Year's night a great noise was to be heard, +and in the morning friends dressed in their best to +call upon, and salute, one another.</p> + +<p>In the streets they were to be seen prostrating themselves +upon the ground. Rich and poor alike had great +rejoicings on New Year's Day, the rich often keeping +up their holiday for ten days.</p> + +<p>Latterly Mr. Graham had been several times backwards +and forwards to Hong-Kong, where he had made +his final arrangements.</p> + +<p>The missionary, whose place he was about to fill, +would, when he left the island, take with him to +England, besides his own family, Sybil and Leonard +Graham. Until they sailed, the Grahams would all stay +with them at the Mission House, when it would be +handed over to Mr. Graham.</p> + +<p>The other missionary had three children of his own, +two daughters, twelve and ten years old, and a son of +nine, but as they had been absent from Hong-Kong +when the Grahams had been there before, the children +had not yet made one another's acquaintance.</p> + +<p>The eldest, Katie, now became Sybil's very useful +interpreter, for as she had been born in China and lived +there all her life, she could understand, and speak, many +Chinese dialects.</p> + +<p>Sybil now knew several Chinese words herself.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[212]</a></span> +"Che-fan," or "Have you eaten your rice?" was "How +do you do?" though, as a rule, when people said "How +do you do?" to her it was "Chin-chin mississi?"</p> + +<p>When she went out visiting, questions such as the +following were generally put to her, "What honourable +name have you?" "What is the name of your beautiful +dwelling?" and "What age have you?" Had she +been grown up, this question would probably have been, +"What is your venerable age?"</p> + +<p>Leonard was often told to "catchee plenty chow-chow," +which means "eat a very good dinner," but as +somehow he generally seemed able to do this, he hardly +needed the kind advice.</p> + +<p>Mrs. Graham's amah amused Sybil very much. +She had been a great traveller, having visited both +England and America, and she liked England much the +best. One day she said to Sybil: "Melicā no good +countly. Welly bad chow-chow. Appool number one. +My hab chow-chow sixty pieces before bleakfast. Any +man no got dollar, all hab got paper. Number one +foolo pidgin. No good countly. My no likee Melicā. +My likee England side more better." This meant: +"America is not a good country. It has very bad food, +but first-rate apples. I ate sixty before breakfast. No +one has any dollars there, all use paper money. Very +foolish business. Not a good country. I do not like +America. I like England better."</p> + +<p>Some pleasure or another was always forthcoming +for Sybil and Leonard, and the few last "Peep-shows" +were very precious.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 326px;"> +<img src="images/i-219.png" width="326" height="600" alt=""SING-SONG."" title="" /> +<span class="caption">"SING-SONG."</span> +</div> + +<p>One day, when they were out, they saw a "Sing-Song," +as the performance was called. Under a canopy, +in the open streets, children were acting and dancing.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[214]</a></span> +To do so, they had dressed up in very gorgeous costumes, +their ornaments and head-dresses being grander, +Leonard said, than anything he had ever seen before; +and the little Chinese actors themselves seemed to be +thoroughly at their ease, and quite at home, in their +grand attire.</p> + +<p>"Why did that policeman come after you to-day, +father, and take down the name of the boat that we got +into?" Leonard once asked, when he and his father had +been out together, and were returning home.</p> + +<p>"Policemen have done that several times, if you had +only noticed," was the reply. "That was to guard us +from pirates. They took the name of our boat, so that +the owner could be held responsible if we did not return +safely. The Chinese are dreadful pirates, and are +generally on the look-out for opportunities to rob. +Sometimes a band of them will take their passages in a +ship, and when fairly out at sea will all rise in mutiny +against the captain and his officers, and perhaps murder +them, so as to be able to plunder as they choose."</p> + +<p>"I should think the boat-policemen had plenty of +work to do," Leonard then said.</p> + +<p>"Father, do you remember well when you were just +eleven?" the child then asked suddenly, going, as it +seemed, right away from his present subject. "Did +you ever want to be a sailor then? ever think for +certain you would be one?"</p> + +<p>"I do not remember ever having had that wish."</p> + +<p>"Well, I have had it over and over again, and +thought that there could not be anything better in the +world than going about in ships, and seeing different +places. I've wished to be a sailor for ever so many +years; but, you know, I don't wish it now."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[215]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i-221.png" width="600" height="359" alt="FISHERMEN AND FISHERWOMEN." title="" /> +<span class="caption">FISHERMEN AND FISHERWOMEN.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[216]</a></span></p> + +<p>Mr. Graham smiled. I expect it was Leonard's +"ever so many years" which made him do so.</p> + +<p>"Don't you?" his father asked. "Then what do +you want to be now?"</p> + +<p>"Something, father, I'm not half good enough for," +the boy answered, thoughtfully. "A missionary! Oh, +father, I do so want to be a missionary now, and come to +China, as you and grandfather have done! Shouldn't +you like it too? I know mother would; and perhaps +the Church Missionary Society would send me out if I +asked them."</p> + +<p>"I should like nothing better, my little son," was +the missionary's reply.</p> + +<p>A few minutes later Leonard was out of doors +again, flying himself one of the "wonderful kites," +which a Chinaman had made for, and given to, him, +and his father was watching his little fellow with +pleasure almost amounting to pride.</p> + +<p>Was this his impulsive boy's own thought, he +wondered, or had his sister suggested it to him.</p> + +<p>Quite his own; but no doubt the quiet, gentle influence +which Sybil exerted over her younger brother +was very good for him.</p> + +<p>"Do you think, Sybil, that the heathen Chinese +could teach the Christian English anything?" Mr. +Graham asked his daughter, as they sat and talked +together the very last evening.</p> + +<p>"I am sure they could," she answered quickly; +"many things. Filial love and obedience for one, +respect and reverence for old age for another; and then, +though they do believe such silly, superstitious things, +there seems to be such a reality, so much earnestness, +about the way some of them carry out their religion.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[217]</a></span> +They do not mind how early they get up and go out +to keep a religious festival, and they seem to ask a +sort of blessing, from their gods, on everything they +do, and keep their fasts and feasts so very regularly; +but I think their love for their parents beats +everything. 'Boy' asked for a holiday yesterday, +because it was his mother's birthday, and got up very +early to do his work before he went." "Boy" was a +kind of footman.</p> + +<p>"Yes; parents' birthdays are kept up much more +than are those of children. Sometimes on their birthdays +they will sit under a crimson canopy, whilst their +children kneel and perform the 'kow-tow' to them. +The fifty-first birthday, and every ten years afterwards, +is celebrated with great pomp, when religious ceremonies +are often performed at the Temple of Longevity. I +believe thirty Buddhist priests will then sometimes +return thanks for three days.</p> + +<p>"When a man is eighty-one, the fact is occasionally +communicated to the Emperor, who may then allow +money to be given for a monumental arch to be erected +to the old man's honour.</p> + +<p>"After parents are dead their birthdays are still celebrated +in the ancestral hall, where their portraits hang."</p> + +<p>"I suppose children give their parents beautiful +presents on their birthdays?"</p> + +<p>"When they begin to get old the best present that +a child can, and does, make a parent, and one which +he values more than anything else, is a coffin, because, +you know, a Chinaman thinks that unless his body be +buried properly his spirit cannot rest.</p> + +<p>"The Chinese are strange contradictions," Mr. +Graham went on. "Although they are very courageous<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[218]</a></span> +in bearing torture, they are dreadful liars, and a great +liar is generally a great coward. Then they are sober +and industrious, but slaves to the opium drug; meek +and gentle, but, at the same time, treacherous and +cruel; most dutiful to their parents, but often very +jealous of their neighbours; and then, perhaps strangest +of all, is their love towards their children, but yet their +readiness to put their girls to death."</p> + +<p>Sybil was silent for several minutes. "Oh, father!" +she then said, "isn't the time dreadfully near now? +Fancy leaving you and dear mother! How can we?"</p> + +<p>"You must go to <i>your</i> work, darling, and we must +stay here to do ours. Is it not so?" Mr. Graham asked, +in the dear, kind, soft voice that Sybil loved so much, +and which she always called his "preachy voice." "But +what shall give us comfort? what shall we think about +when we are trying to do our several duties, though +apart, I hope contentedly and well? That it is God +who has called us to our several duties; it is His +Almighty will which we have now and always to obey; +but remember, not alone, not unaided, dear Sybil. +Who will be our guide, stay, and comfort, when we are +separated from one another?"</p> + +<p>Sybil knew, but could not answer, because she was +crying.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 384px;"> +<img src="images/i-225.png" width="384" height="550" alt="WOMAN OF POAH-BI." title="" /> +<span class="caption">WOMAN OF POAH-BI.</span> +</div> + +<p>"Your mother and I," Mr. Graham went on, "in +commending our children to the Fatherly love and care +of Him Who gave you to us, know that we place you in +the safest keeping; and you yourselves have also both +learnt, have you not, how to go to our Father and +'Supreme Ruler' in earnest prayer, whenever tempted +to do what would displease Him? A missionary, you +know, is one who is sent on a mission—to fulfil a duty.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[220]</a></span> +A missionary's children must not shrink from fulfilling, +must not fail to fulfil, the mission on which they are +sent, must they?"</p> + +<p>Sybil looked comforted. She liked this last "Peep-show" +very much, and kissed her father to show him +that she did.</p> + +<p>A few minutes later she said, "Do you know, +father, I believe little Chu is really beginning to +believe and understand properly, for the other day, +when I was saying my prayers, she came and knelt +down beside me, and she would never kneel to our God +before, even when she saw the Christian woman at +Poah-bi do so, with whom we stayed, and with whom +she was such good friends. I shall often remember +that woman and her dear little baby, which she tied to +herself so funnily, because I liked them so very much.</p> + +<p>"Poor little Chu!" Sybil then went on. "I shall +be so glad to see her again when I come back to you, +but I do not think she will like me to go away."</p> + +<p>"Chu will have to be a great deal at school now. +She has her work to do too, you know."</p> + +<p>"How I shall think of you, father, and the Hong-Kong +Mission on Intercession Day, when it comes +round, shan't I?"</p> + +<p>"Yes, Sybil; and not only on Intercession Day, but +always in your prayers, you must remember to pray +very fervently, both for Chinese and other unbelievers, +and not only for me, but for all who are seeking their +conversion."</p> + +<p>"It seems a more real thing now to pray for," +Sybil said.</p> + +<p>"And to give thanks for too. Here in Hong-Kong +we have great cause to be thankful."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[221]</a></span></p> + +<p>"What a dear old lady that was who was baptized +on Sunday! but what was the Christian name she +chose? I could not hear it."</p> + +<p>"Mong-Oi, which means 'desiring the love' (of +Jesus)."</p> + +<p>"That was a beautiful name, wasn't it? And there +were a number of communicants for here too. How +many native communicants are there in Hong-Kong?"</p> + +<p>"Between sixty and seventy; and what is so +comforting is that the communicants seem to be really +devout, and to realise what being a communicant means +for, and requires of, them, and it is no easy matter at +all for natives of China to embrace Christianity. +Sometimes they have to leave all their relations, and +suffer much persecution in consequence."</p> + +<p>"When was the Hong-Kong mission begun?" +Sybil asked.</p> + +<p>"In 1862."</p> + +<p>Although the results were far from what the zealous +missionaries would fain have seen them, Mr. Graham +was right in saying that the Mission from the Church +of England to Hong-Kong had cause to take hope and +be thankful.</p> + +<p>Several men and women were now under instruction +both for baptism and confirmation. The mission schools +for boys numbered more than 190, and for girls more +than thirty, and here the children were religiously +as well as secularly instructed.</p> + +<p>There were, although only two European missionaries +and one native clergyman, twenty-three native Christian +teachers, and 183 native Christians. The Mission comprised, +besides St. Stephen's Church and the agencies +around it in the island of Hong-Kong, many out-stations<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[222]</a></span> +in the province of Quangtung occupied by +native agents.</p> + +<p>The Prayer Book, and, still better, the Holy Bible, +translated into their own tongue, were now circulated +among the people, some of whom were really learning to +love and value them; and not only were the services for +the Christians well attended, but every evening the +heathen were to be seen in numbers going to hear +sermons that were to be preached for them.</p> + +<p>Well, then, might Mr. Graham go forth to his new +work with hope.</p> + +<p>"How much you will have to do, father," Sybil said, +"if you go to the Medical Missionary Institution so +often, and do all your other work besides! But the +people seem to be very grateful to you. 'Boy' said +yesterday that you were 'a hundred man good,' and +I know what that means: 'The best of men.'"</p> + +<p>Mr. Graham smiled.</p> + +<p>"I like, and it is good for us all," he said, "to have +plenty to do; and one work, you know, may help on +the other."</p> + +<p>"I expect mother will help you a very great deal +too."</p> + +<p>"She is sure to do that." Sybil knew she was.</p> + +<p>All day long the child had spent beside her +much-loved mother; now, for another hour, she sat +on and talked with her father, receiving good, +kind counsel, when Leonard, who had been closeted +with his mother, listening to her dear words of best +advice, came in, with eyes swollen from crying, and +then the four sat together till it was long past bed-time; +but what of that? To-morrow, on board +ship, there would be nothing to keep them up late,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[223]</a></span> +when they could make up for to-night, and go early +to bed.</p> + +<p>To-morrow came, as happy and sad to-morrows all +alike will come; when the mother gave her children their +last kisses, the father their last kisses and benedictions, +and Sybil and Leonard Graham started on their homeward +voyage to England, leaving their parents very +grateful for having such good, kind friends to whose +care on board ship to entrust them.</p> + +<p>Both children were to return at once to their former +schools, and spend their holidays together at Mrs. +Graham's brother's house, who was also the rector of a +country parish, and where she knew they would very +soon feel quite at home.</p> + +<p>Sybil and Leonard Graham, the children of brave +parents, were brave children themselves, and as they had +promised not to grieve more then they could help, they +at once did battle with their tears, and before long +were talking really cheerfully with their friends.</p> + +<p>"Who knows," Sybil said once to Leonard, when she +and her brother found themselves alone, "but what they +might come over for a small holiday-trip in two or three +years' time? and if not, I believe when I go out you are +to go with me for another 'Peep-show' holiday, and to +see <i>them!</i>"</p> + +<p>"Of course I ought to go whenever I can," Leonard +answered, "as I'm going to be a missionary out there +myself."</p> + +<p>Sybil had said "them" because she could not yet +say, without crying, those two dear, sacred words, father +and mother, which stand alone in the vocabulary of +every language, and have no peers.</p> + +<p>Mrs. Graham herself was then alone, shedding bitter<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[224]</a></span> +tears, which she had stifled until her children left her, +but which she could keep back no longer.</p> + +<p>Yet, though her mother's loving heart was very sad +and sore, she would not weep long, but would, to the +very best of her ability, go forth at once to help her +husband—who could not but feel sad now too—in the +good work in which she had encouraged him to embark, +counting <i>all</i> the costs beforehand.</p> + +<p>And Sybil, who had said "<i>I like my father to be a +missionary very much</i>," would not unsay the words +now, though it took both her parents so far away from +her and Leonard. Oh no! since she had seen the +great need that there was for missionaries to China, she +liked, even better than before, her father "to be a +missionary!"</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 156px;"> +<img src="images/i-230.png" width="156" height="300" alt="" title="" /> +</div> +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/i-005.jpg" width="400" height="233" alt="Inscription." title="" /> +</div> +<p> <br /><br /></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 316px;"> +<img src="images/back_cover.jpg" width="316" height="500" alt="Back cover." title="" /> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<div class='tnote'><h3>Transcriber's Notes:</h3> +<p>Obvious punctuation errors repaired.</p> + +<p>Text uses uses varied hyphenation on the naming of the cities. This includes both Fu-kien and Fukien, Poahbi +and Poa-bi, and Pei-ho and Peiho, among others.</p></div> + + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Peeps Into China, by E. C. 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C. Phillips + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Peeps Into China + Or: The Missionary's Children + +Author: E. C. Phillips + +Release Date: November 3, 2010 [EBook #34199] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PEEPS INTO CHINA *** + + + + +Produced by Emmy, Charlene Taylor and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + + + + + + + +[Illustration: A STREET SHOWMAN.] + + + + + +PEEPS INTO CHINA; OR, The Missionary's Children. + +BY E. C. PHILLIPS, + + AUTHOR OF "TROPICAL READING-BOOKS," "THE ORPHANS," "BUNCHY," + "HILDA AND HER DOLL," ETC. + +[Illustration] + + CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED: + _LONDON, PARIS, NEW YORK & MELBOURNE._ + + [ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.] + + + + + To + + MY DEAR PARENTS, + + IN + + LOVING MEMORY. + + "Can I forget thy cares, from helpless years + Thy tenderness for me?" + + + + +[Illustration: Contents.] + + + CHAPTER PAGE + I. THE COUNTRY RECTORY 9 + + II. THE FIRST PEEP 21 + + III. THE RELIGIONS OF CHINA 44 + + IV. CHINESE CHILDHOOD 69 + + V. THE MERCHANT SHOWMAN 89 + + VI. LITTLE CHU AND WOO-URH 100 + + VII. LEONARD'S EXPLOIT IN FORMOSA 114 + + VIII. THE BOAT POPULATION 134 + + IX. AT CANTON 153 + + X. A BRIDE AND BRIDEGROOM 179 + + XI. PROCESSIONS 197 + + XII. THE LAST PEEP 208 + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +THE COUNTRY RECTORY. + + +[Illustration] + +"NOT really; you can't mean it really!" + +"As true as possible. Mother told me her _very own_ self," was the +emphatic reply. + +Two children, brother and sister, the boy aged ten, the girl three years +older, were carrying on this conversation in the garden of a country +rectory. + +"But really and truly, on your word of honour," repeated Leonard, as +though he could not believe what his sister had just related to him. + +"I hope my word is always a word of honour; I thought everybody's word +ought to be that," Sybil Graham replied a little proudly, for when she +had run quickly to bring such important news to her brother, she could +not help feeling hurt that he should refuse to believe what she said. + +"And we are really going there, and shall actually see the 'pig-tails' +in their own country, and the splendid kites they fly, and all the +wonderful things that father used to tell us about? Oh! it seems too +good to be true." + +"But it is true," Sybil repeated with emphasis. "And I dare say we might +even see tea growing, as it does grow there, you know, and I suppose we +shall be carried about in sedan-chairs ourselves." She was really as +happy as her brother, only not so excitable. + +At this moment their mother joined them. "Oh, mother!" the boy then +exclaimed, "how beautiful! Sybil has just told me, but I could not +believe her." + +"I thought the news would delight you both very much," Mrs. Graham +answered. "Your father and I have been thinking about going to China for +some time, but we would not tell you anything about it until matters +were quite settled, and now everything seems to be satisfactorily +arranged for us to start in three months' time." + +"That will be in August, then," they both said at once. + +"Oh, how very beautiful!" Sybil exclaimed. "_I like my father to be a +missionary very much._ He must be glad too; isn't he, mother?" + +"Very glad indeed, although the joy will entail some sadness also. I +expect your father will grieve a good deal to leave this dear little +country parish of ours, and the duties he has so loved to perform here, +but a wider field of usefulness having opened out for him, he is very +thankful to obey the call." + +[Illustration: THE CHURCH.] + +"And father will do it so well, mother," answered Sybil. "I wonder +whether I shall be able to do anything to help him there?" + +"I think you have long since found out, Sybil," was her mother's loving +answer, "that you can always be doing something to help us." + +Sybil and Leonard had as yet only learnt a part of the story. They had +still to learn the rest. This going to China would not be all beautiful, +all joy for them, especially for Sybil, with her very affectionate +nature and dread of saying "Good-byes," for she and Leonard were only to +be taken out on a trip--a pleasure tour--to see something of China, and +to return to England to go on with their education at the end of six +months. + +Mr. Graham then calling his wife, the children were again left alone. + +It was no easy matter to go as a missionary to China. This Mr. Graham +well knew, for his father, although only for a short time, had been one +over there before him, and had discovered--what so many other later +brother missionaries have found out also--that to obtain even a hearing +on the subject of religion from a Chinaman, who has been trained and +brought up to be a superstitious idolater, very vain of his wisdom and +antiquity as a nation, and to look upon Europeans as barbarians, is +often a most difficult matter. + +Eighteen years before Mr. Graham the elder went out to Peking as one of +the first missionaries to China, and his only son, who had then just +qualified for the medical profession, accompanied him. A year later, the +father dying, his son returned at once to England, but with a changed +mind, determined now to seek holy orders and enter the ministry, instead +of following his profession, so as by thus doing to add one more to the +number of earnest clergy that his short stay in China had shown him were +so much needed. To carry out his resolution, he went to Oxford to +prepare, and soon after his ordination he married, and settled down, in +the little country village, where we find him, surrounded by his little +family. + +Often since then had he contemplated leaving England for missionary +work, but until now he had been prevented from carrying his wishes into +effect. + +His knowledge of medicine had not been lost to him, for many a sufferer +in the little, yet wide-spreading country parish, who lived at too great +a distance to send for the doctor for a slight ailment, had been very +thankful, when the clergyman came in to read and pray with him, to learn +from him what his slight ailment was, and how he could prevent its +becoming a great one. + +And this knowledge would be most helpful and invaluable in China, where +Mr. Graham knew that the science of medicine was held in veneration by +the inhabitants, and gained a ready admission to those who were glad to +be cured of bodily ailments, but knew not how sick their souls were. + +The missionary's slight acquaintance with the Chinese dialect, which, +when time permitted, he had endeavoured to keep up, would also be of +service to him when he arrived in China; for although the dialects of +the south, where he was going, were very different from those of the +north, the Mandarin, or Court language, spoken by the officials, was +understood in every part. + +"That's why father's been reading all those books lately with the +pig-tail pictures in, and wonderful kites, and why he has been studying +the language without an alphabet," Leonard said, when he and his sister +were again alone. "If I hadn't been at school so much, I expect I should +have found out what was going to happen." + +"I don't believe we should ever find out anything that father did not +wish us to know, however much we wanted to do so," answered Sybil. "But +isn't it splendid?--all but one thing, and that is having to leave +everybody, and my best friend Lily Keith. I shan't like doing that at +all." + +"And I shall miss my friends too, of course," said Leonard; "but then I +expect we shall make some new ones; and I thought you were so fond of +writing letters. Why, you could write splendid ones from China, and tell +Lily what we see, and perhaps mother would draw you some pictures for +them, for she can draw anything, you know." + +Sybil was comforted, for she was very fond of writing letters, and her +friend, she knew, would be very glad to have some from China. + +Directly after the six o'clock dinner was the children's hour with +father, who, being a very busy man, had to regulate all his time; but +this one hour a day belonged entirely to his family, and unless anything +unforeseen happened, they had and claimed every moment of it. + +Sybil came down-stairs first, and going up to her father, who was +sitting by a large bow window, gazing out of it, with a very serious +look on his face, she said with surprise as she kissed him: "You look +sad, dear father. Aren't you glad to go to China?" + +He drew her on to his knee. + +"Very glad, my darling," was the answer; "but I was just picturing to +myself some farewells that will have to be taken. I shall be very +sorry, too, to say 'Good-bye' here, where our lives have been so blessed +and our prayers so abundantly answered. We cannot help feeling sorry to +leave our old friends, can we?" + +"But you don't look, father," she continued, "as if that were all that +you had been thinking." + +"I dare say it was also about the work in which I am so soon to engage, +for that, Sybil, is full of grave responsibility; but now I think it is +my turn to ask what your thoughts are," he went on, for at that moment +Sybil was looking quite as grave as, just before, her father could have +looked. + +"I was remembering two verses of a piece of poetry that I learnt last +term at school, which I think must have been written for missionaries," +she replied. + +[Illustration: MAP OF CHINA.] + +Her father then asking her to repeat them to him, Sybil said:-- + + "Sow ye beside all waters, + Where the dew of heaven may fall; + Ye shall reap, if ye be not weary, + For the Spirit breathes o'er all. + Sow, though the thorns may wound thee; + One wore the thorns for thee; + And, though the cold world scorn thee, + Patient and hopeful be. + Sow ye beside all waters, + With a blessing and a prayer, + Name Him whose hand upholds thee, + And sow thou everywhere. + + "Work! in the wild waste places, + Though none thy love may own; + God guides the down of the thistle + The wandering wind hath sown. + Will Jesus chide thy weakness, + Or call thy labour vain? + The Word that for Him thou bearest + Shall return to Him again. + On!--with thine heart in heaven, + Thy strength--thy Master's might, + Till the wild waste places blossom + In the warmth of a Saviour's light." + +"Thank you, Sybil," said her father. "I am sure you will make a capital +little missionary's daughter some day." + +"To what part of China are we going, father?" she then asked; "to the +same place where you were before?" + +"No; quite in another direction. You know when I was last in China I was +at Peking, in the north, and now I am to be in Hong-Kong, an island in +the south; but we shall not go there direct, as I wish to take you to +see several places before finally landing." + +"Wait a minute, please, father," Sybil then exclaimed, "while I just +fetch my map to look them out as you tell them to me." And as she spoke +she ran off, to return the next minute with an atlas, in which she found +these places as her father mentioned them: Shanghai, Amoy, the Island of +Formosa, Swatow, Hong-Kong, Macao, and Canton. + +"I wish, father, you would tell us some day all you can remember about +Peking," then said Leonard, as he ran in and joined his father and +sister, having till now been very busy, first coaxing his good friend +the gardener to help him cut and put up some roosts in the fowl-house, +and then showing his handiwork to his mother. "You know what I mean: +something like what you used to tell us." + +[Illustration: LEONARD IN THE GARDEN.] + +"I will try to arouse up my memory, and tell you what I can on board +ship, when we shall have, I suppose, seven or eight weeks with very +little to do, and when you will, no doubt, be glad of some true stories +to while away the time." + +"I wish we were going to start to-morrow," rejoined Leonard, who was, I +am afraid, a boy without a particle of that virtue which we call +"patience." He wanted his mother now to go into the poultry-yard with +him to see the roosts he had, and as she liked to enter into all his +pleasures and useful occupations, she was very pleased to go. + +Before either of them came in again, Sybil had heard "the rest" from her +father; that she and Leonard were, after a six months' long holiday in +China, to return to England to continue their education. It was a +terrible blow to her, to whom a long separation from her parents seemed +almost like an impossibility. Her bright eyes filled with tears. + +"Oh, father!" she said; "and leave you and mother?" + +"It must be for a time, my darling, till your education is completed, as +your mother and I both wish you to remain at the school where you are, +but when school-days are over, about four years hence, I hope to be able +to have you out with us. It will be longer for poor old Leonard, won't +it?" + +"I don't think I care to go to China now, father," Sybil then said. + +"Oh yes you do, Sybil," was the answer; "you like your father to be a +missionary very much, you know, do you not?" Her mother had repeated +this saying. "And, my child," he continued, "you know that it must be a +dreadful trial for so very good and loving a mother as yours to part +from her children; but now that a call has come to me to do my Master's +work in a foreign land, and she is helping me to obey it, you would not +make her trial greater, would you, by letting her see you sad? Oh no! I +know you would not; but you would help us to do our duty more bravely. +Is it not so, my child?" + +Sybil buried her face on her father's shoulder, and sobbed, but on +seeing her mother coming up the garden towards them, she quickly wiped +her tears away, and tried to look cheerful. Her father had gone wisely +to work in giving her such a reason for trying to overcome her sorrow, +and he knew that now she would set herself bravely to work to help, and +not to hinder, her parents' undertaking. + +And they were not to be parted for nearly another year, she said to +herself, and meanwhile they were to have all sorts of enjoyments with +their parents. + +Mrs. Graham brought a message from Leonard for Sybil to go and see his +roosts, which she at once obeyed, affectionately kissing her mother as +she passed her. That was to say that she knew, and a great deal more. + +Another piece of news Sybil now conveyed to Leonard, and as she told it, +even he could not tell that it made her very unhappy. I wonder if he +believed at once this time! + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +THE FIRST PEEP. + + +THE missionary's family party had set sail, and the steamship, in which +they were passengers, was now fairly out at sea. + +As far as money was concerned, Mr. Graham had no anxieties, for being +the only son of a very wealthy man, who had lost his wife some time +before he died himself, Mr. Graham had, at his father's death, inherited +the whole of his large fortune. + +"Now, father, don't you think it's high time you began to tell us about +old Peking?" Leonard said, a few days after they had sailed. "I did not +ask you at first, because we had plenty to do to look about us, but now +that there's nothing in the world but water to see anywhere, we should +so like to hear some stories; so please begin, if it won't trouble you +too much." + +And sitting on deck, with Sybil on his right and Leonard on his left, +Mr. Graham did as he was requested, and gave his children what they +considered a very interesting description of a portion of that vast +empire which they were so soon to visit. "The Chinese," he began, "are a +very ancient race, so ancient, indeed, that the origin of their monarchy +is not known." + +"Do you mind waiting one minute, father, just to tell me a thing I have +forgotten, and you told me once?" Leonard asked. "What does the word +China mean?" + +"The ancient name for China, Tien-sha, means 'inferior only to heaven.' +Chinese history begins with the fabulous ages, two or three million +years ago, when the Chinese say that no land but theirs was inhabited, +and gods reigned upon the earth, which was made for them. After the +gods, they tell us, came mythical kings, who were giants, had the power +of working miracles, and lived for thousands of years; but it is really +supposed that the first people who passed beyond the deserts of Central +Asia settled in the province of Shen-si, which borders on Tartary, and +here laid the foundation of the present monarchy of China. + +"Some Chinese historians think that their first mortal Emperor was +Fuh-hi, whose date of coming to the throne is fixed as early as 2,852 +years B.C. He is described as possessing great virtues, and was called +by his subjects the 'Son of heaven'--a title which is still given to +Emperors of China, who are foolishly supposed, by some of their +subjects, to be of celestial origin. He is said to have taught them how +to keep laws and to live peaceably, also to have invented the arts of +music and numbers. Certainly the Chinese have understood music from very +early ages, and class it among the chief of the sciences. + +[Illustration: MUSICIANS.] + +"They have at least fifty different kinds of wind and string musical +instruments, made of wood, stone, or metal, and they play a great +deal, but especially upon their fiddle instruments. They do not like our +music at all. + +"But now we must go back to a little more Chinese history. There is +nothing to prove that the Chinese existed as a nation before the time of +Yu the Great, whose date of accession is said to be 2,285 years B.C., +and he is also included in the Legendary Period to which Fuh-hi belongs. +After the Legendary Period came the Semi-Historical Period in Chinese +history; the really Historical Period dating from the early part of the +eighth century before Christ. + +"Different dynasties succeeded each other, till from the years 500 to +200 B.C. many petty kings, reigning over various provinces, waged war +against one another. At length a fierce warrior, named Ching-wang, went +to war with, and conquered, all of them, and made himself master of the +whole empire, about 200 years B.C., his government comprising about the +northern half of modern China. He was the first monarch of the dynasty +called Tsin, or Chin. Next he turned his arms against the Tartars, who +were a portion of those people whom we read of in history by the name of +Huns, and who were now making constant inroads into China. They were +capital soldiers--I believe every Tartar has now to be a soldier--and as +the Chinese dreaded them very much, the Emperor thought out a way to +keep them off. He erected a great wall along the whole extent of the +northern frontier of China, of very great height, thickness, and +strength, made of two walls of brick many feet apart, the space between +them being, for half the length of the wall, filled up with earth, and +the other half with gravel and rubbish. On it were square towers, which +were erected at about a hundred yards' distance from one another. Some +say this wall extended 1,500 miles from the sea to the most western +provinces of Shen-si; McCulloch says it is 1,250 miles in length. It was +carried over mountains and across rivers. Six horsemen could ride +abreast upon it. But there was great cruelty practised in its +construction, for the Emperor obliged every third labouring man in the +kingdom to work at this wall without payment. + +[Illustration: GREAT WALL OF CHINA, GULF OF PE-CHI-LI.] + +"It took five years to finish, and has now existed for more than two +thousand years. It is called Wan-li-chang, or Myriad-mile Wall." + +"And did it keep out the Tartars?" Leonard asked. + +"No; the little Emperor Tsai-tien, born in 1871, and now on the throne, +is, I believe, a descendant of theirs. He is called Kwang-su, which +means 'Continuation of glory.'" + +"Does the Emperor's eldest son always reign?" + +"No; the ablest or best son is generally chosen. Ching-wang seemed to +think that he was master of the whole universe, and called himself +Che-Hwang-ti, or First Emperor; and then to try to show that he was the +founder of the monarchy, he had, as he thought, all the historical +documents burnt that could prove otherwise, but did not succeed, for +some that had been hidden behind the walls of houses were found after +his death." + +"What a quantity of stuff it must have taken to build the wall!" said +Leonard. + +"Yes; the material in the Great Wall, including the earth in the middle +of it, is said to be more than enough to surround the circumference of +the earth, on two of its great circles, with two walls of six feet high +and two feet thick. Guards are stationed in the strong towers by which +the wall is fortified; every important pass having a strong fortress." + +"And what is the height of the wall, father?" asked Leonard. + +"About twenty feet; and there are steps of brick and stone for men on +foot to ascend, and slanting places for the cavalry." + +"I shall like to see Chinese soldiers," Leonard said. "Did you ever see +them at drill, father?" + +[Illustration: CHINESE ARTILLERY-MEN, PEKING.] + +"I remember very well seeing a regiment of artillery at gun-drill one +day, but I believe there has been a new armament of Chinese artillery +since my time. I suppose you know, children," then said Mr. Graham, +"that Peking ranks----" + +"For the number of its inhabitants," Sybil said quickly, "as the second +city in the world, only London having more inhabitants, Paris about the +same number." + +"Yes; and it has----" + +"About two million inhabitants." + +"Yes; and as Peking was built many centuries before the Christian era, +it is a very old city. The name Peking means Court of the North. After +the conquest by the Tartars of the kingdom of Yen, of which Peking was +the capital, it became only a provincial town, when, at the beginning of +the fifteenth century, it was again made the capital of China. The +Chinese sovereigns used to live at Nanking, but when the Tartars had so +often invaded the country, they removed to the northern province, to +enable them the more easily to keep out the invaders." + +"On our Chinese umbrella that we had in the dining-room fireplace at +home," said Sybil, "there was, I remember, a picture of Peking, and some +water was close by it, but I cannot remember what river Peking is on." + +"It is situated in a large sandy plain on the Tunghui, a small tributary +of the Peiho. This city is again divided into the Chinese and Tartar +cities, the Imperial city, in which live the Emperor and his retainers, +and another in which the court officials have their residence. + +"Like all other Chinese cities, they are surrounded by high walls. At +the north, south, east, and west sides of towns are large folding-gates, +which are often further secured by three inner gates. The one in the +south is that of honour, through which the Emperor passes, but which is +usually kept closed at other times. + +[Illustration: CIEAN-MUN, OR CHEAN-GATE AT PEKING.] + +"The wall of Peking, which is sixteen miles round, has two gates on +three sides and three on the other, of which the principal is Chean-Mun, +at the south of the Tartar city. Over the gate is a building occupied by +soldiers, who are there for purposes of defence. + +[Illustration: CHINESE SOLDIER.] + +[Illustration: STREET OF HATA-MENE-TA-KIE, PEKING.] + +"The streets in Peking are very broad; we shall find them much narrower +in the south of China. They are raised in the centre, and covered with a +kind of stone, to form a smooth, hard surface. In summer they are often, +I remember, very dusty, and during the rainy seasons very dirty. At the +end of each street is a wooden barrier, which is guarded day and night +by soldiers. The barrier is closed at nine o'clock at night, after which +time the Chinese are only allowed to pass through if they have a very +good reason to give for being out so late. + +"Order is well kept in the streets of Peking by the soldiers and police, +who may use their whips on troublesome customers whenever they think it +necessary to do so. + +"The principal streets, or main thoroughfares, extending from one end of +the city to the other, are its only outlets. Trees grow in several of +these streets. Houses, in which the inhabitants live, are in smaller +streets or lanes, the houses themselves being often shut in by walls. + +"Pagodas (which, you know, are temples to heathen gods, built in the +form of towers), monasteries, and churchyards, are all outside the +walls, and the city itself is principally kept for purposes of +commerce." + +"We know what pagodas are like," Leonard said, "because we had two at +home for ornaments. I think we know many things through being so +fortunate as to have a father who has travelled." + +[Illustration: CHINESE BARBER.] + +"There is a great noise in some of the streets," Mr. Graham went on: +"for instance, in the Hata-mene-ta-kie, where many people are to be seen +bustling about and talking very loudly to one another. Tents are here +put up in which rice, fruit, and other things are sold, and any one +wishing for a pretty substantial meal can be supplied with it in the +Hata-mene-ta-kie, for before stoves stand the vendors of such meals, who +have cooked them ready for purchasers. Other tradesmen carry hampers, +slung across their shoulders, in which they keep their goods, whilst +they call out, from time to time, to let people know what these hampers +contain. Carts, horses, mules, wheel-barrows, and sedan-chairs pass +along, the whole place seeming to be alive with buyers and sellers. The +cobbler is sure to be somewhere close at hand in his movable workshop, +and first here and then there, as may best suit himself and employers, +the blacksmith pitches his tent, which sometimes consists of a large +umbrella; whilst, again, people can refresh themselves, if they do not +care for a heavier meal, with some soup or a patty at a soup stall. + +"And the barber does not forget that he is a very useful person. There, +in the open streets, he communicates, by the tinkling of a little bell, +the fact that he is ready to shave the heads and arrange the cues or +pig-tails of those who may require his services; and as one man after +another takes the seat that has been put ready for him, the barber not +only shaves and plaits, but also frequently paints his customer's +eyebrows and gives his clothes a brush." + +"Father, why do Chinamen wear pig-tails?" here broke in Leonard, who, +with Sybil, was very much interested in what he heard. + +"After they were conquered by the Tartars they were obliged to wear +them, to show that they were in subjection to their conquerors; but now +the pig-tail is held in honour, and the longer it will grow the better +pleased is the Chinese gentleman who wears it. Some very bad criminals +have their tails cut off as a great punishment and disgrace. + +"Well, what should you like to hear now?" Mr. Graham asked, after a +little pause. + +"What Chinese shops are like, I think," said Sybil. + +[Illustration: A SHOP IN PEKING.] + +"Most of those in China are quite open in front; where we are going I +suppose we shall see very few, if any, shop-windows at all, but in +Peking many of the shops have glass windows. In China there are +certain streets for certain shops, where the different branches of +trade have generally their own sides of the road. A shop is called a +hong. Sometimes the master sits outside, waiting for his customers to +arrive. + +[Illustration: SIGN-BOARD OF A CUSHION AND MATTING MANUFACTORY.] + +"At the door of each hong are sign-boards, upon which are painted in +gold, or coloured letters, a motto instead of a name, and what the shop +offers for sale. + +"I do not think," Mr. Graham then said, drawing, as he spoke, a little +representation of a sign-board out of his pocket-book, "that I ever +showed you this." + +"Oh no!" both the children answered. "And what do those characters +mean?" + +On another piece of paper Mr. Graham pointed out to them the following +interpretation: + + =Teen= + =Yee= + =Shun= + Fung Poo + Seih Tian + =Teen= + +[Illustration: A TWO-WHEELED CART.] + +"The three first large characters, which form the motto, may be taken to +signify that 'Heaven favours the prudent.' The other smaller characters +designate the nature of the business, a cushion and matting +manufactory; the last character, without which no sign-board is +complete, meaning shop or factory." + +"I shall like to see these sign-boards very much when we get to China," +Sybil said. "I should think they must make the streets look very +pretty." + +Mr. Graham had illustrated several things which he had told the children +by some pictures which he had brought on board with him. + +[Illustration: A YOUNG FARMER AND HIS PARENTS.] + +Leonard was now looking again at that of Chean Mun, or Chean Gate, for +Mun means gate. + +"I have been noticing, father," he then said, "that all the carts in +this picture have only two wheels." + +"I never saw any in China with more," was the answer. "Both shut and +open carts (the latter being used as carriages) have all two wheels. +Those in common use are made of wood, the body of the cart resting on +an axle-tree, supported by the wheels. Horses and mules are very little +used in China, except for travelling and for conveying luggage long +distances. I remember also noticing that horses and ponies require very +little guiding in China. Sometimes they go without reins, when their +masters will perhaps walk beside them, carrying a whip. I have also seen +very polite drivers, who, whenever they met a friend, jumped off their +carts and walked on foot to pass one another. + +[Illustration: A CHINESE JUNK.] + +[Illustration: FLYING KITES.] + +"Government servants generally use ponies, but as China is so densely +populated--having, it has been estimated, about four hundred million +inhabitants, and people find it so hard to obtain enough to support +themselves and families--they keep as few beasts of burden as possible. +The farmer employs the bullock a great deal, and in the north of China +the camel is also much used. + +"Much trade is carried on by boats, and where there is no water, and +farmers are without other conveyances, they will sometimes push their +wives along the roads in wheel-barrows, sons giving their parents +similar drives. There are but few carriage-roads in many parts of +China." + +"I wonder the Chinese do not make more, then," said Leonard. + +"They cannot afford to do so, because to make them bread-producing land +would have to be done away with." + +"What a number of rivers and bays there are in China!" said Sybil, who +was again examining her map. "And I see the Great Wall crosses the +Hwang-ho." + +"And that's the fifth largest river in the world," Leonard answered. +"Only the Amazon, Mississippi, Nile, and Yantze-kiang are larger; and +the Grand Canal in China is the very largest canal in the world." + +"I learnt once, too, that Hwang-ho meant 'Chinese sorrow.' Why is it +called that?" + +"Because it has altered its course, which has caused great loss and +inconvenience to the Chinese." + +"And what does 'Yantze-kiang' mean?" + +"The son that spreads; this is their favourite river." + +Geography was one of Leonard's favourite studies. + +"Why do so many Chinese rivers end in ho and kiang?" he then asked, +looking over Sybil's map. + +"Both words mean river--the Yantze and the Hwang rivers. And the Chinese +have all kinds of boats for use on their rivers. Here, my boy, is a +picture of a Chinese junk. Look at it well, and see if you can discover +anything peculiar about it." + +Leonard looked for some time. "It has sails," he answered, "like +butterflies' wings." + +"Yes; that is how the Chinese make many of their sails." + +"But the kites are what I want to see so much," said Leonard, as though +the sails had reminded him of them again. "What are the most peculiar of +them like?" + +"Like birds, insects, animals, clusters of birds, gods on clouds: all +kinds of things, in fact, are represented by these kites, which the +Chinese are most clever in making, and also in flying. I have seen old +men, of about seventy years of age, thoroughly enjoying flying their +kites. The Chinese do not care much for your, and my, favourite games, +Leonard: cricket and football." + +"What games do they like?" + +"They are very fond of battledore and shuttlecock, but instead of using +a battledore they hit the shuttlecock with their heads, elbows, or feet. +Seven or eight children play together, and nearly always aim the +shuttlecock rightly. Girls play at this game too, in spite of their +small feet. Tops, balls, see-saws, and quoits are also favourite toys +and games amongst the Chinese." + +"I remember," Sybil said, "a girl at school having a Chinese +shuttlecock, and that was like a bird." + +"Well, father, go on, please. What other amusements have they?" asked +Leonard. + +"Puppet-shows for one thing I remember, which they exhibit in the +streets, as we do 'Punch and Judy.' The pictures in these shows are +exhibited by means of strings, which are either worked from behind or +from above the stand, and as the people look through a glass, the views +are displayed to them. A man standing at the side calls out loudly, and +beats a little gong to summon people to attend the show. And now I +think, as I am rather tired for to-day, I shall beat a little gong to +dismiss you from the show," Mr. Graham said, smiling, as he turned +towards his children, who never seemed to grow tired of listening. + +"Very well, father; we will go now, and let you rest," Sybil replied, +standing up. "Thank you so much. To-morrow, you know, we shall come to +the show again, so please remember to sound the gong in good time." And +off they bounded, leaving Mr. Graham at liberty to go and seek his wife, +who was then lying down in her cabin. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration] + + + +CHAPTER III. + +THE RELIGIONS OF CHINA. + + +[Illustration: LI-HUNG.] + +"WILL you please tell us to-day, father, something about the religion of +the Chinese? I know they worship idols, but how do they believe in +them?" Sybil asked, as soon as their "Peep-show," as the children +continued to call their father's stories, began the next afternoon. +During the morning she had sat and read to her mother, who still felt +the motion of the vessel very much, and had therefore to lie down part +of the day. + +"I will try to do so," was the answer; "but I think what you hear may +puzzle you a good deal, for they have very strange creeds." + +"Did grandfather make many converts?" + +"Very few indeed; but then he was one of our very first missionaries to +Peking, so was most thankful for the very little which he was enabled to +do. + +[Illustration: A CITIZEN OF TIENT-SIN.] + +"I remember two men for whose conversion from Buddhism he often gave +thanks. One was a citizen of Tientsin, where we landed on our way to the +capital. + +"This good fellow, who was then a very questionable character, was +smoking his pipe in a most indifferent manner, when my father, through +his teacher, first addressed him. Missionaries in China, you know, have +teachers of the dialects." + +"Shall you have one?" + +"Of course. Well, this man would not listen at all at first, and was +very angry at my father's interference; but after a while we met him +again at Peking, and in time both he and his wife learnt to believe, and +to long for Christian baptism, before receiving which they not only left +off worshipping their family idols, but even destroyed them. A short +time ago I heard that this man had become a native lay teacher, and was +a great help to the mission, as he could, of course, always make himself +understood to his own countrymen, who were also not unlikely to be won +by his example." + +"What was his name?" asked Leonard. + +"Tung-Sean." + +"And that of the other convert?" + +"Li-Hung. He was a much older man, and was sitting, I remember, the day +we first saw him, in a field, resting from his work, and as he caught +sight of my father he began to call him all sorts of names, amongst +which was to be heard very often that of 'foreign devil.' I believe he +even looked for stones to throw at us. Your grandfather--always a very +quiet, self-possessed man--just dropped some tracts at his side, +translated into Chinese. We often saw Li-Hung again, and though he gave +us much trouble, a month before my father died he had the happiness also +of witnessing this man's conversion to the true faith." + +"Grandfather must have been very pleased," Sybil said. + +"He was; but I think now I have something rather interesting to tell you +of our journey from Tientsin to Peking. We went in carts drawn by two +mules, one in front of the other, and at night we slept at inns, where, +I think, you would like to hear about our sleeping accommodation. It was +winter, and as the Peking winter is cold, people there, to make +themselves warm at night, sleep on kangs. As these were different at +both inns to which we went, I will tell you about both. + +[Illustration: A KANG.] + +"In one the kang consisted of a platform built of brick, so much larger +than a bed that several people could sleep on it at once. A kind of +tunnel passed through the platform, which had a chimney at one end, +whilst at the other end, a little while before bed-time, a small +quantity of dry fuel was set on fire, when the flame passed through the +tunnel and out of the chimney. In this way the kang was warmed, when +felt matting was put upon it. Here we lay down, and were covered over +with a kind of cotton-wool counterpane. + +[Illustration: BOATS ON THE RIVER PEI-HO AT TIENT-SIN.] + +"The kang in the other inn was warmed by a little stove from underneath, +which also served in the day-time for cooking purposes, when the +bed-clothes were removed from the kang, on which mats, and even little +tables, were also sometimes put, until it became a sofa; so it was very +useful." + +The children laughed. + +"We are not hearing about the religion yet, though," Sybil said. + +"Oh, do let us hear just a little more about Peking and Tientsin first," +Leonard answered. "How far is Tientsin from the capital?" + +"Eighty miles. And do you know what river it is on?" + +Leonard considered. "It must be an important one, I should think, as it +carries things, doesn't it, from the sea-coast to near to Peking?" + +"It is only a river of secondary importance, but the principal one of +the province of Pe-chili. Now for its name." Sybil referred to her map. + +"The Pei-ho, of course," they exclaimed together. "And I suppose there +is ever so much traffic on it?" Leonard said; "with no end of ships to +be seen?" + +"Yes, a good many may be seen there. I have a picture of boats on the +River Pei-ho." + +"What sort of flags do Chinese boats have, father? I do not see any +hoisted here." + +"The Imperial Navy is divided into river and sea-going vessels, the +former consisting of 1,900 ships, the latter of 918; and there are +188,000 sailors. Ships in the Imperial Navy generally fly a flag at the +main, on which red lines are drawn, or sometimes a tri-colour is hoisted +there instead. Red would, I suppose, be for safety, as this is the +'lucky' colour of the Chinese. At the stern of the vessel I remember +seeing the name of the official who directs and superintends the ship." + +"Isn't Tientsin noted for something?" Sybil then asked. + +[Illustration: MINISTER OF FOREIGN AFFAIRS.] + +"Yes; for the treaty of June 26th, 1858, between the Chinese and +British, some of the terms of which were that the Christian religion +should be protected by Chinese authorities, that British subjects should +be allowed to travel in the country for pleasure or business, under +passports issued by their consul, and that the Queen might acquire a +building site at Peking." + +"But now the religion, please, father," she said again. + +"Very well; but you must pay great attention to what I say, or you will +not understand. Most of the Chinese are either Confucianists, Buddhists, +or Taouists, although there are also Jews and Mahometans amongst them. +At one time it is supposed that the people of China had really a +knowledge of the true God, and that when they worshipped, in much the +same sort of manner as did the patriarchs, Him whom they call Wang-teen, +or Shang-ti, which means Supreme Ruler, they worshipped God. + +"But mixing with this an idolatrous worship of departed ancestors, they +nearly lost sight of the Supreme Ruler, the jealous God, Who, we know, +claims all our worship. + +"About the latter half of the sixth century before Christ, Confucius, a +great and clever philosopher of China, who was born 551 B.C., wrote and +put together books that held very moral and good maxims, afterwards +called 'The Classics.' + +"He taught that men must always be obedient to those to whom they are in +subjection: people to prince, child to parent, filial piety being +enforced before every other duty. He was very anxious to improve the +manners of the people; but women he ranked very low. Confucianism +is--but perhaps you will not understand this--more a philosophy than a +religion. Its followers have no particular form of worship, and no +priesthood. The Pearly Emperor, Supreme Ruler, is their deity, but +worship is seldom offered to him, and then only by a few. + +"Although Confucius disapproved very much of idols, after he was dead +many of his followers worshipped him. + +[Illustration: A MANDARIN.] + +"Confucianists do not believe in a future state of rewards and +punishments, but think that their good and bad deeds will be rewarded +here by riches or poverty, long or short life, good or bad health. +Conscience is to lead people aright, and tell them when they do wrong. + +"The high mandarins and literary people are generally Confucianists; +school-boys also worship an idol or tablet of the sage, in which his +spirit is supposed to dwell. + +"There is a temple to the honour of 'The Great Teacher' in every large +town; and on great occasions, and always in spring-time and autumn, +sacrifices are here offered, the Emperor himself, as high priest, +presiding at these two ceremonies in Peking, the chief mandarins of his +court giving him assistance. In temples of Confucius idols are very +seldom to be seen. + +"The Confucianists are taught that man was originally good, his nature +being given by heaven, and that sin came through union of the soul with +matter." + +"What are mandarins, please, father?" asked Leonard. + +"Chinese officials, of which there are many grades, and many in each +grade, all of whom are paid by Government. To every province there is a +viceroy, to every city a governor, and to the village a mandarin, who is +elected to rule over it for three years; and all these, again, have many +officers under them. There are also a great many military mandarins. A +great mark of imperial favour is to allow mandarins, civil or military, +to wear a peacock's feather in their caps, which hangs down over the +back, and the ball placed on the top shows, by its colour and material, +the rank of the wearer. Soldiers fighting very bravely are often buoyed +up with the hope of receiving one of these feathers. + +"Mandarins, who stand in a sort of fatherly relationship towards their +people, although they do not always behave like fathers towards them, +look for implicit obedience from them." + +"Can a mandarin be punished when he does wrong?" Leonard asked. "And +what sort of dress does he wear?" + +[Illustration: A MANDARIN WITH PEACOCK'S FEATHER.] + +"He can be punished when he does wrong; and as well as I can remember, +those mandarins that I saw, who were in high office, wore a long, loose +robe of blue silk, embroidered with gold threads. This reached to their +ankles, being fastened round their waists with a belt. Over this was a +violet tunic, coming just below the knees, which had very wide, long +sleeves, usually worn turned back, but if not, hanging over the hands." + +"Will you please go on about the religion now, father?" Sybil then said. +"You had just told us that the Confucianists were taught that man was +made good." + +"Yes; and their worship is paid almost entirely to their ancestors, +which worship they look upon as a continuation of the reverence they had +been taught to show them while on earth. I will tell you more about +ancestral worship presently. + +"Many people, as you can well understand, were not satisfied with +Confucianism as a religion, as it could not satisfy their spiritual +wants, especially as the Pearly Emperor, or Supreme Ruler, generally +looked upon as the highest divinity worshipped by the Chinese, might +only be approached by the Emperor and his court; so another sect sprang +up, having a philosopher named La-outze, who was born 604 B.C., for its +founder. He thought that to grow perfect he must seclude himself from +other people, and in his retirement was always looking for the Taou-le, +the meaning of which you will hardly understand--the cause or the end of +all things. His followers are called Taouists. This philosopher says in +his book that 'it is by stillness, and contemplation, and union with +Taou, that virtue is to be achieved'--Taou here meaning a principle and +a way. He said that virtue consisted in losing sight of oneself, and +that man should love even his enemies, and go through life as if none of +his possessions belonged to himself. The Taouists say that 'Taou is +without substance, and eternal, and the universe coming from him exists +in the silent presence of Taou everywhere,' and that only those who +become very virtuous are happy. + +"La-outze is now worshipped by the Taouists as the third of a trinity +of persons, called 'The Three Pure Ones.' + +"He is said, when born, to have had long white hair, and is therefore +represented as an old man, and called 'old boy.' The Chinese assert that +his mother was fed with food from heaven, and that when he was born he +jumped up into the air, and said, as he pointed with his left hand to +heaven and his right hand to the earth, 'Heaven above, earth beneath: +only Taou is honourable.' The Taouist trinity are supposed to live in +the highest heaven; and Taouists used to spend a great deal of time in +seeking for a drink that they thought would make them live for ever. +Subduing evil is by some of them supposed to secure immortality to the +soul. + +"Their priests are often very ignorant men, but they are believed in by +the people, and are employed by them to perform superstitious rites." + +"Oh, father! Isn't it a dreadful pity that they should believe so many +things like Christians, even in a trinity, and the duty of loving one's +enemies, and only be heathens after all?" + +"It is indeed; but the more we see of heathens, Sybil, the more we shall +notice how they cannot help feeling after truth and grasping some parts +of it, which seem as though they were a very necessity to religion. +These Taouist priests are often called in by the people to exorcise, or +drive away, evil spirits, to cure sick people and commune with the +dead." + +"Oh, father! I do so like this Peep-show. Please tell us now about the +people of the other sect." + +[Illustration: A BUDDHIST PRIEST.] + +"They are the Buddhists, who also worship a trinity; indeed, Taouists +are thought to have taken that idea from them. As early as 250 B.C. +Buddhist missionaries came over from India to China, but the religion +did not really take root until an emperor named Hing, of the Han +dynasty, introduced it, in the first century of the Christian era, about +66 A.D. This emperor is said to have seen in a dream, in the year of our +Lord 61, an image of a foreign god coming into his palace, and in +consequence he was advised to adopt the religion of Buddha, when he sent +to India for an idol and some priests. Towards the end of the thirteenth +century there were more than 4,200 Buddhist temples in China, and more +than 213,000 monks. The Buddhist trinity is called Pihte, or the Three +Precious Ones: Buddha Past, Buddha Present, and Buddha Future, and +dreadfully ugly idols they are. The Buddhist's idea of heaven is +Nirvana, or rest, or more properly speaking, extinction. The Chinese +Buddhist thinks that a man possesses three souls or spirits, one of +which accompanies the body to the grave, another passes into his +ancestral tablet to be worshipped, and the third enters into one, or +all, of the ten kingdoms of the Buddhistic hell, into which people pass +after death, there to receive punishments according to the lives they +have led upon earth. From the tenth kingdom they pass back to earth, to +inhabit the form of a man, beast, bird, or insect, as they may have +deserved, unless during life a man has attained to a certain state of +perfection, when he mounts to the highest heaven, and perhaps becomes a +god or buddha. But even from the Western Paradise a spirit has sometimes +to return to earth. Should a man have been good in all the various lives +that he has lived, he is supposed to attain, I believe, to this Nirvana, +or extinction." + +"What a wonderful belief!" Sybil said. "So they cannot believe at all in +the immortality of the soul?" + +"No, they do not." + +"I should like to see a Buddhist priest very much," Leonard said. + +[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO A BUDDHIST MONASTERY.] + +"I dare say you will see a good many when you get to China. They live +together in monasteries, sometimes in great numbers, and these +monasteries are prettily situated, surrounded by lakes and gardens. They +consist of a number of small buildings, to the principal of which is a +large entrance, that has inscriptions on either side of the gateway." + +[Illustration: A MONASTERY.] + +"Are the priests very good men?" asked Leonard. + +[Illustration: A GONG.] + +"Very often, I am afraid, just the reverse; but this is not to be +wondered at, for criminals in China, to escape from justice, will +sometimes shave their heads, and seek refuge by becoming Buddhist +priests. When they take their vows--some taking nine, some twelve--for +each one a cut is made in their arms to help them to remember it. Some +of the vows resemble the commandments setting forth our duty towards our +neighbour. A Buddhist priest, in China, wears a wide turn-over collar; +when he officiates he often dresses in a yellow robe made of silk or +cotton, but he is only allowed to wear silk when he does officiate. At +other times his garments are of white or ash colour, or he wears a long, +grey cowl with flowing sleeves. Buddhist priests shave all their hair +two or three times a month. They think it is of great use to repeat +their classics very often to the gods, and keep an account of the number +of times they say them on their beads. I fancy they use brooms wherewith +to sprinkle holy water. There are four special commandments for +Buddhists, both priests and people: not to destroy animal life, not to +steal, not to speak falsely, and not to drink wine. In monasteries the +refectories of the priests are very large, and they have all to sit at +dinner, so that the abbot, who is at their head, can see their faces. +They are called to breakfast and dinner by a gong, where they have to +appear in their cowls. Gongs are very much used in China, and are to be +seen at all the temples. When the priest, who presides, comes in, they +all rise, and putting their hands together, say grace. After the food +has been so blessed, some is put outside as an offering to the fowls of +the air. During dinner the priests may not speak, and on the walls of +the refectory are boards, on which are written warnings, such as not to +eat too quickly; also the rules of the monastery." + +"That would not have done for you, Leonard, when you thought you would +be late for school, and gobbled your dinner anyhow," said Sybil. + +"How many gods have the Chinese?" asked Leonard. + +[Illustration: WORSHIP IN A LAMASARY, BUDDHIST TEMPLE.] + +"So many that it would be impossible to say, and the Celestials (as the +Chinese are often called, from naming their country the Celestial Land) +are not particular how they worship them; Taouists, for instance, +worshipping those who are peculiarly Buddhist divinities, and Buddhists +invoking, in return, their gods. Indeed, the three religions have so +borrowed from one another, and people have believed so much as they +liked, that the Chinese themselves often do not know to which religion +they belong, and are either all or none, pretty well as they choose. The +Buddhism of China is not at all the pure Buddhism, and has been much +corrupted by its professors." + +"Who was the founder of Buddhism?" + +"An Indian prince, of beautiful character, born 620 B.C., and called +Shakyamuni Buddha, who left wealth and luxury to go about relieving +suffering wherever he found it. After he died his followers believed +that he was transformed into a god, having three different forms." + +"Tell us some of the gods, please." + +"A god of rain; a god of wind; a god of thunder; a god of wealth, the +latter worshipped very much by tradesmen; a god of thieves; a goddess of +thunder; a guardian goddess of women and little children, called Kum-fa, +whose ten attendants watch over children, helping them to eat, and +teaching them to smile and walk; a god of wine; a god of fire; a goddess +of mercy; a goddess of sailors; a goddess of children, called 'Mother'; +a god of the kitchen; a god of measles, a god of small-pox. Then the +Confucianists worship two stars, who are supposed to look after +literature and drawing, the former called the god of literature. And +besides household gods belonging to every family, there are a god of the +passing year, and numerous others. Many of the gods are deified persons +who once lived on earth." + +[Illustration: TEMPLE OF THE MOON, PEKING.] + +"What a number!" Sybil said. "But who, then, is the great Lama? You have +not told us anything about him yet, and I heard you speaking about him +the other day." + +"There is another form of Buddhism, called Lamaism, and this, though it +prevails principally in Thibet and Mongolia, has also its followers in +Peking. The Great Lama, or Living Buddha, is the head of this." + +"And he is a living man?" + +"Yes; but his soul is said never to die; therefore, when he dies it is +supposed to pass into an infant whom the priests select by a likeness +that they trace to the late Lama. I one day saw worship going on in a +Lama temple." + +"Have you a picture of it, father?" Leonard asked, who was getting a +little tired of these descriptions, which Sybil liked so much. + +"Yes, and I think it a very good one. In the centre, facing the +worshippers, is a very large idol indeed of Buddha. To the right and +left of the temple are smaller idols. Some gods in temples do not +receive worship, but guard the doors. Incense is burning in front; the +high priest, to the right, is lifting up his hands in adoration, whilst +the people offer scented rods and tapers to Buddha. As they light their +offerings they kow-tow, or hit their heads upon the floor. This is the +Chinese way of reverent, respectful salutation. The devotees are grouped +in squares. + +"Then I forgot to tell you that the Sun and Moon are also worshipped. +Whilst in Peking, I went to a temple of the Moon. It was on the day of +the autumnal equinox, when, at six o'clock in the evening, a very solemn +sacrifice is offered, and the great ladies of the capital meet to burn +their tapers. I approached this temple by a long avenue of beautiful +trees. The temple was large; but I noticed that more women than men had +come to attend the ceremonies." + +"I thought the Chinese were clever people," Sybil said; "if so, how can +they believe in so many gods?" + +"They have been trained to do so. They feel, I suppose, that they must +offer worship, and until a real knowledge of the true God can be planted +in their midst, they will remain slaves to idolatry. Many of the more +enlightened heathen, I believe, only regard their idols as +representations of the Deity they are feeling after, and not really as +the Deity Himself; although I fear many of the simpler sort, in +different degrees, regard their idols with great religious awe. Then, +many a Chinaman, again, will so often seem to have no religion at all!" + +"Is it very difficult to teach the Chinese, father?" + +"It is very difficult to find words, in their language, clearly to bring +home to them the great truths of the Bible; and Confucius having for +nearly twenty centuries held such a sway over their minds, they do not +care to listen to new teachers." + +"I am so glad the Bible is now translated into Chinese, and that you are +taking some copies out with you. But how old these people must be!" + +"The Chinese are a very ancient race, and had a literature 700 years +before Christ. They are very fond and proud of their country." + +"Do Taouists and Buddhists believe in, and read, the writings of +Confucius?" + +"To a great extent." + +"And are there many Christians in China now?" + +"The Church Missionary Society, at her six chief stations of Hong-Kong, +Foo-Chow, Ningpo, Hang-Chow, Shaou-hing, and Shanghai, now numbers 4,667 +native followers, and 1,702 communicants, of whom nine are native +clergymen and 174 native Christian teachers. In China altogether there +are 40,000 Christian adherents. But what are these, when we think that +this vast empire alone contains 400,000,000 people, one-third of the +human race?" + +"They will listen to you, father," Sybil said, looking up very brightly. +Sybil was a child who thought that there was nobody, except her own +mother, in the whole world to compare with her father. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration] + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +CHINESE CHILDHOOD. + + +"I FORGOT to ask you, father," Leonard said, about a week later--for +during that time he and his sister had been otherwise engaged, and had +therefore not come to hear anything more about the Chinese and their +strange doings--"I forgot to ask you if Celestial boys wore pig-tails +too. I have never, I believe, seen a picture of a Chinese boy." + +"Some have pig-tails, but some parents allow just a tuft of hair to grow +on a boy's head until he is eight or ten years old, and shave the rest. +Sometimes he wears the tuft longer; and I have also seen girls wearing +it on one or both sides of their heads." + +"Father, will you tell us something now about the children?" Sybil then +asked. + +"I know little babies of three days old often have their wrists tied +with red cotton cord, to which a charm is hung, which is, I suppose, to +bring it prosperity or drive away from it evil spirits. At a month old +its head is shaved for the first time, when, if its mother does not +shave it, a hair-dresser has to wear red in which to do it. A boy is +shaved before the ancestral tablet, but a girl before an image of the +goddess of children called 'Mother,' and thank-offerings are on this day +presented to the goddess." + +"What does the ancestral tablet mean?" + +"It consists of a piece of wood or stone, which is meant to represent +the dead. As I told you, one of the spirits of a dead man is supposed to +enter the tablet, and the more this is worshipped the happier the spirit +is supposed to be. On this tablet are names and inscriptions, which +sometimes represent several ancestors. After a certain time (I think the +fifth generation) the tablet is no longer worshipped, as by that time +the spirit is supposed to have passed into another body." + +"Thank you. I understand that now," Sybil said. "Does anything else +happen on the grand shaving day?" + +"Presents of painted ducks' eggs, cakes, and other things are sent to +the baby, and when it is four months old 'Mother' is thanked again, and +prayed to make the child grow fast, sleep well, and be good-tempered." +Sybil and Leonard laughed. "On this day the child also sits for the +first time in a chair, when his grandmother, his mother's mother, who +has to give him a great many presents, sends him some soft kind of +sugar-candy, which is put upon the chair, and when this has stuck the +baby is put upon it, and I suppose his clothes then stick to it also." + +"What a fashion to learn to sit in a chair!" Leonard said. "And what's +done on his first birthday?" + +"Another thank-offering is presented to 'Mother,' more presents come, +and the baby has to sit in front of a number of things, such as ink, +pens, scales, pencils, tools, books, fruit, gold, or anything the +parents like to arrange before him, and whatever he catches hold of +first will show them what his future character or occupation is likely +to be. + +[Illustration: YUEN-SHUH, A LITTLE STUDENT.] + +"But the worst part has now to come. As soon as the poor little fellow +can learn anything, he is taught to worship 'Mother' and other idols, +before which he has to bow down, and raise up his little hands, whilst +candles and incense are burnt in their honour. So it is no wonder that +as he grows older he learns his lesson thoroughly. At sixteen children +are supposed to leave childhood behind them, and there is a ceremony for +this." + +"Do Chinese girls learn lessons? or is it only the boys?" + +"In some parts of China there are, I believe, a few schools for young +ladies, and instruction is given to them by tutors at home; but although +two or three Chinese ladies have been celebrated for great literary +attainments, these are quite the exceptions, and there are only a very +few schools for any girls in China, except the mission schools. Those +for boys abound all over the country." + +"Did you ever go into a boy's school, father?" + +"Yes, into several, where I saw many a little intelligent-looking boy +working very hard at his lessons. One little boy, named Yuen-Shuh, told +me that he meant to get all the literary honours that he could. Chinese +boys are not allowed to talk at all in school-hours. Each boy has a desk +at which to sit, which is so arranged that he cannot speak to the boy +next to him. Little Yuen-Shuh had been to school since he was six years +old. + +"Another boy was saying a lesson when I went in, and therefore standing +with his back to his teacher. Boys always say their lessons like this, +and it is called 'backing the book.' The teacher, as they repeat their +lessons, puts down their marks. When learning their lessons they repeat +them aloud. There are higher schools into which older boys pass, and the +great aim of the Chinese is to take literary honours, as nothing else +can give them a position of high rank; but even a peasant taking these +honours would rank as a gentleman." + +"Will you take me to see a school in China?" Leonard then asked. + +[Illustration: A CHINESE SCHOOL.] + +His father, having promised to do so, went on to say to Leonard: +"Parents are very particular as to their choice of a schoolmaster, who +must be considered good, as well as able to teach; and to qualify +himself the master must, of course, know the doctrines of the ancient +sages. After all has been settled for a boy to go to school, the parents +always invite the schoolmaster to a dinner, given expressly for him. +Then a fortune-teller is asked to decide upon a 'lucky' day for the boy +to make his first appearance at school, when he takes the tutor a +present. No boy ever goes to school first on the anniversary of the day +on which Confucius died or was buried. On entering school, he turns to +the shrine of Confucius--an altar erected to his honour in every +school--and worships him, after which he salutes his teacher very +respectfully, hears what he has to do, and goes to his desk." + +"And are there many holidays at Chinese schools?" + +"At the new year and in the autumn there are always holidays, but +children also go home to keep all religious festivals, to celebrate the +birthdays of parents and grandparents, to worship their tablets, and at +the tombs of ancestors. Very often schoolmasters are men who have toiled +very hard at their books, and yet have not succeeded in taking a very +high degree, but sometimes having done so, they choose teaching for +their profession. Children are very much punished in China when they +break school-rules. Perhaps the punishment they fear most is to be +beaten with a broom, because they think that this may make them unlucky +for the rest of their lives." + +"And they can never have an alphabet to learn," Sybil said, "when they +first go to school, as there is not one." + +[Illustration: A VILLAGE SCHOOLMASTER.] + +"No; instead of letters and words, they have to learn, and master, +characters. In some schools children learn names first; in others they +have reading lessons, where all the sentences consist of three +characters. As soon as possible they are set to learn the classic on +'Filial Piety.'" + +"Now, father, will you please describe a Chinese house to us?" + +"Those of the richer classes are surrounded by a high wall, and composed +of a number of rooms, generally on one floor. In large cities some +houses have another storey; but the Chinese think it 'unlucky' to live +above ground." + +"The Chinese seem to think everything either lucky or unlucky," Sybil +said; "it does seem silly. I do not wonder that you always told me not +to say that word. I don't think I shall ever want to say it again now; +and I used to say it rather often, usen't I? But I did not mean to +interrupt you, so please go on now." + +"Some houses are very large, which they have to be, in order to +accommodate several branches of the same family, who often live together +in different parts of them. + +"There are generally three doors of entrance to a house, of which the +principal, in the centre, leads to the reception hall, into which +visitors are shown. I have seen the walls of rooms hung with white silk +or satin, on which sentences of good advice were written. All sorts of +beautiful lanterns hang from the sitting-room ceilings, sometimes by +silk cords. The furniture consists principally of chairs, tables, pretty +screens and cabinets, with many porcelain ornaments, and fans are very +numerous in a Chinese household. Most houses have very beautiful +gardens; even the poor try to have their houses surrounded by as much +ground as possible. Many houses also have verandahs, where the Chinaman +likes to smoke his evening pipe. Indeed, women, even ladies, smoke pipes +in China. I have a picture of a verandah scene in the south of China." + +"Are these people rich or poor?" Sybil asked. + +"Certainly not rich, but also not very poor." + +"You were saying the other day, father, that Chinese people smoke +something else besides tobacco?" Leonard then asked. + +"Opium." + +"What is opium?" + +"The juice of the poppy, which, after being made into a solid form, is +boiled down with water." + +"Why did you say that opium-smoking was so dreadful?" + +"You shall hear all about it, and then judge for yourself. The +opium-smoker, whilst engaged with his pipe, thinks of, and cares for, +nothing else in the whole world besides, and generally lies down to give +himself up to its more full enjoyment. Holding his pipe over the flame +of a small oil-lamp beside him, he lights the opium, and then gently +draws in the vapour which proceeds from it. Sometimes people smoke in +their own houses, and sometimes they resort to horrid places regularly +set apart for opium-smoking. In Hong-Kong, where we are going, there +will be many an opium-smoker who will buy this drug in quantities when +he cannot even afford to purchase clothing. + +[Illustration: FAMILY SCENE--AFTER DINNER] + +"If a man make a practice of smoking opium at stated times, even should +these times not be very frequent, he so acquires the habit of smoking, +that if, when the pipe be due it is not forthcoming, he is quite +unable to do his work, and wastes all his time thinking of and longing +for his pipe. The habit is sometimes acquired in less than a fortnight. +Opium may first be taken in a small quantity to cure toothache; the +small quantity leads to large quantities; the large quantities, or even +small ones taken regularly, lead at last to the man becoming an habitual +opium-smoker: and this means that the victim's health becomes injured, +and that he is unfit for any work. If he then leave off his opium, he +becomes ill, has dreadful pain, which sometimes lasts till he smokes +again; he has no appetite for food, cannot sleep at night, and looks +haggard and miserable. Sometimes if opium cannot be procured by him he +dies. + +"And these men make themselves slaves for life to this horrid drug, +knowing before they touch it what it will do for them. + +"Opium-smoking makes rich men poor, honest men thieves, and poor people +even sell their children to obtain the drug." + +"And can't they be cured, father?" Sybil asked. + +"Medical aid has been brought in to help them, but it generally fails; +and every now and then we hear of an opium-smoker becoming a Christian +and then overcoming the vice, but this is also very rare indeed. And +what does this teach us, children?" + +They thought. "Never to acquire bad habits, I suppose," said Sybil, "for +fear they should grow upon us." + +[Illustration: HABITUAL OPIUM-SMOKERS.] + +"Yes; and because they do grow upon us. Everything to which we very much +accustom ourselves grows into a habit; therefore it is so very important +for both Chinese and English, for both grown-up and little people, to +cultivate good habits. And more especially is this important in the case +of young people, because so many of our habits, which remain with us and +influence our whole after-life, are formed in our childish days." + +"And do people really sell their children?" + +"They do, indeed; and some children are so filial that they will even +sell themselves for the good of their parents. There is very little that +a Chinaman will not do for a parent. One of their superstitions is that +if a father or mother be ill, and the child should cut away some of its +own flesh to mix in the parent's medicine, a cure would be effected; and +children have been known to cut pieces, for this purpose, out of their +own arms." + +"What would happen," Sybil asked, "if a child were to do anything very +dreadful to a parent in China?" + +"If a son kill a parent, he is put to death, his house is torn down, his +nearest neighbours are punished, and his schoolmaster is put to death; +the magistrate of the district would also suffer, and the governor of +the province would go down in rank." + +"How unfair!" Leonard exclaimed, "when only one person did it." + +"Why does all that happen?" Sybil asked. + +"To show how great the man's sin is. The schoolmaster is punished +because it is thought that he did not bring up his pupil properly. Of +course, it is very unfair, but the Chinese are often very cruel in their +chastisments, and many criminals prefer death to some of the other +punishments. A great many also suffer capital punishment; sometimes as +many as ten thousand people in a year." + +"Then, when children do wrong, their parents and schoolmasters are +blamed?" + +"Very often their faults are attributed to their bringing-up." + +"Oh! oughtn't we to be careful, then, Leonard? Fancy when we do wrong +people blaming father or mother!" + +Leonard was then very anxious to hear more about Chinese punishments, so +his father told him an occurrence that he had once witnessed. + +"A very usual way of punishing small offences," he began, "is by beating +with a bamboo; and whenever a mandarin finds that any one, under his +jurisdiction, has transgressed, he can use the bamboo. Parents use it on +their children even when they are thirty years of age. The poor Chinese +culprits used to be subject to very horrible tortures, such as having +their fingers or ankles squeezed until they made confession; but I +believe a good many of the worst tortures have now been done away with. +One in common use is the canque, which is a collar made of heavy wood, +with a hole in the centre for the head to come through. It is fastened +round the neck, and is worn from one to three months, preventing its +prisoner from lying down day or night. The captive remains in the street +instead of in prison, and is dependent upon his friends to feed him." + +"What a shame!" Leonard said. "I'd like to be a magistrate in China, to +put that sort of cruelty down." + +[Illustration: A CHINESE COURT OF LAW.] + +[Illustration: CHINESE PUNISHMENT.] + +"But now I am coming to a trial that I witnessed myself. I remember, as +I went into the Provincial Criminal Court, one day, seeing the judge +sitting behind a large table, covered with a red cloth. Secretaries, +interpreters, and turnkeys stood at each end of the table, only the +judge having a right to sit down. Soon after I arrived the prisoner was +led in by a chain who immediately threw himself down on the ground +before the judge. The crime brought against him was robbing an official +of high rank. It was thought that he could not have committed the +robbery alone, and was asked how it was effected, and who were his +accomplices. He would not say. Then he was beaten; but still this +brought no answer. Both an arm and a leg were then put into a board, +which made it almost impossible for him either to walk, or sit, or +stand. His poor back must have ached terribly; and while one man dragged +him along by a chain, another held a whip to urge him forward. + +"And he had never committed the robbery after all, but gave himself up +in place of his father, a man named Wang-Yangsui, who was really the +culprit." + +Tears were in Sybil's eyes as she listened. + +[Illustration: POOR OLD WANG-YANGSUI IN THE CAGE.] + +"And he suffered all that?" she said. + +"Sons have been known to allow themselves to be transported to save +their parents, and then only to have felt that they did their duty." + +"And in this case was the real culprit ever found out?" + +"Yes; the father, moved with compassion for his boy, gave himself up." + +"And did they not let him off," Leonard asked, "as the son had suffered +so much for him?" + +"No; they put him into a cage in which were holes for his head and feet, +but in which he could neither sit down nor stand upright. Round the cage +was an inscription relating the nature of his crime." + +"How long was he left there?" + +"That I was not able to hear, but the day he was incarcerated I saw his +daughter feeding him with chop-sticks. These, which consist of two +sticks that people hold in the same hand wherewith to feed themselves, +instead of knives and forks, the Chinese always use when they eat. She +must have found it difficult to get to him, as she was carrying a +basket, as well as a baby on her back, for she had small feet, and women +with small feet cannot walk any distance, even without a load at all. It +is not the rule for lower class girls to have their feet made small, +though in some cases it is done. This woman had once been better off." + +"Why do Chinese ladies have small feet?" Leonard asked. + +"But, father," Sybil put in, "please tell us first what became of that +poor old man. I am so sorry he stole." + +"I heard that great poverty had tempted him to do so, but that he +afterwards bitterly repented of the crime which he had committed. How +long he remained in the cage I was never able to ascertain; but I really +think now that we must close our 'Peep-show' for to-day." + +"After we've heard about the small feet ladies, father. I think you have +just time for that." + +"The feet of Chinese women would be no smaller than, perhaps not as +small as, other women's feet, were they not compressed." + +"What does that mean?" + +"Made smaller by being pressed." + +"How painful it must be!" + +"So it is. When very young, a little girl's foot is tightly bandaged +round, the end of the bandage being first laid on the inside of the +foot, then carried round the toes, under the foot, and round the heel +till the toes are drawn over the sole, in which an indentation becomes +made and the instep swells out. After a time the foot is soaked in hot +water, when some of the toes will occasionally drop off. Every time the +bandage is taken away another is put on, and tied more tightly. For the +first year there is, as we can imagine, dreadful pain, but after two +years the foot will become dead and cease to ache. You can therefore +understand that it is very uncomfortable for Chinese ladies to walk, and +if they go any distance they are carried on the backs of their female +slaves." + +"Are all Chinese parents so silly as to have their little girls' feet +bandaged?" + +"A few are strong-minded enough to break through the rule, and all the +Tartar ladies have natural feet. Anti-foot-binding societies have now +been formed by the Chinese gentry in Canton and Amoy." + +"I wonder what made people first think of doing this?" Sybil said. + +"Some people think that it was first done to help husbands to keep their +wives at home; others say that it was to copy an Empress who had a +deformed foot which she bandaged; but whatever the reason may have +been, we cannot but wish very, very strongly, that the cruel custom +might be soon completely done away with!" + +"I shall like to see the ladies being carried on their slaves' backs," +Leonard said. "That will be fun!" + +"You will soon see it now," was his father's answer, "for we have been +six weeks at sea, and the captain says we may expect to be at Shanghai +in another ten days' time, so I think I had better not tell you any +more, and let you find out the rest for yourselves." + +"I think we might have just one more 'Peep-show,'" Sybil replied, "and +hear how we get our tea-leaves. I think we ought to know about that +before we arrive." + +The missionary smiled, and the next time his children wanted a +"Peep-show" very much, only a very little persuasion was required to +make him sit down between them and let them have it. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +THE MERCHANT SHOWMAN. + + +[Illustration] + +"WELL, so it is to be about tea to-day," Mr. Graham at once began. +"Supposing I do not know anything about it, though; what are we to do +then? I know tea comes from an evergreen plant, something like a myrtle, +but that isn't much information, is it? Wait a minute, though, +children," he then went on, "and you shall have a proper lesson to-day." +And as he spoke Mr. Graham disappeared, soon to return with a fellow +passenger, a tea merchant, who would be the kind "show-man" for to-day. + +"How far did you get?" he asked, as he sat amongst the group of father, +mother, and children, for Mrs. Graham had also come to "the show" +to-day. + +"That tea was an evergreen plant, something like the myrtle," Sybil +said, laughing; and all laughed with her. + +[Illustration: GATHERING TEA-LEAVES.] + +[Illustration: SIFTING TEA.] + +"Then I have it all to do, it seems. Well, the tea-plant yields a crop +after it has been planted three years, and there are three gatherings +during the year: one in the middle of April, the second at midsummer, +and the third in August and September. I suppose it will do if we begin +here. The plant requires very careful plucking, only one leaf being +allowed to be gathered at a time; and then a tree must never be plucked +too bare. Women and children, who are generally, though not always, the +tea gatherers, are obliged to wash their hands before they begin their +work, and have to understand that it is the medium-sized leaves which +they have to pick, leaving the larger ones to gather the dew. When the +baskets are full, into which the leaves have been dropped, they are +carried away hanging to a bamboo slung across the shoulders, which is a +very usual way of carrying things in China. The tea-plant is the most +important vegetable production of the 'Flowery Land.' But as there are, +you know, several kinds of tea, I think I had better tell you how that +called Congou, which, I suppose, you generally drink yourselves, is +prepared. The leaves are first spread out in the air to dry, after which +they are trodden by labourers, so that any moisture remaining in them, +after they have been exposed to the air or sun, may be pressed out; +after this they are again heaped together, and covered for the night +with cloths. In this state they remain all night, when a strange thing +happens to them, spontaneous heating changing the green leaves to black +or brown. They are now more fragrant and the taste has changed. + +"The next process is to twist and crumple the leaves, by rubbing them +between the palms of the hands. In this crumpled state they are again +put in the sun, or if the day be wet, or the sky threatening, they are +baked over a charcoal fire. + +"Leaves, arranged in a sieve, are placed in the middle of a +basket-frame, over a grate in which are hot embers of charcoal. After +some one has so stirred the leaves that they have all become heated +alike, they are ready to be sold to proprietors of tea-hongs in the +towns, when the proprietor has the leaves again put over the fire and +sifted. + +"After this, women and girls separate all the bad leaves and stems from +the good ones; sitting, in order to do so, with baskets of leaves before +them, and very carefully picking out with both their hands all the bad +leaves and stems that the sieve has not got rid of. The light and +useless leaves are then divided from those that are heavy and good, when +the good are put into boxes lined with paper." + +"What is scented Caper Tea?" Mr Graham asked. + +"Oh, father! I am so glad that there's something you have to ask," +Leonard said, "as you seemed to know _everything_." + +[Illustration: SORTING TEA.] + +"The leaves of scented Orange Pekoe," the merchant answered, "obtain +their fragrance by being mixed with the flowers of the Arabian +jessamine, and when scented enough, they are separated from the flowers +by sieves. Scented Caper Tea is made from some of the leaves of this +Orange Pekoe. + +[Illustration: PRESSING BAGS OF TEA.] + +[Illustration: TEA-TASTING.] + +"Those leaves which are prepared at Canton are black or brown, with a +slight tinge of yellow or green. The tea-leaves growing on an extensive +range of hills in the district of Hokshan are often forwarded to +Canton, where they are made into caper in the following manner. But I +wonder if Leonard knows what 'shan' means?" the merchant interrupted. He +did, for he had seen in his geography that "shan" meant mountain. "A +tea-hong," the merchant continued, "is furnished with many pans, into +which seventeen or eighteen handfuls of leaves are put. These are +moistened with water, and stirred up by the hand. As soon as they are +soft they are put into coarse bags, which, tightly fastened, look like +large balls. + +[Illustration: WEIGHING TEA.] + +"These bags are moved backwards and forwards on the floor by men holding +on to wooden poles, and standing upon them. In each bag the leaves take +the form of pellets, or capers. + +"The coarse leaves, gathered from finer ones, thus made into Caper, +after being well fired, are put into wooden troughs, and chopped into +several pieces, and it is these pieces which become the tea which we +call Caper." + +"Thank you very much," said Mr. Graham. "I did not know anything of +this." + +"Tea-merchants are most particular, before buying and selling tea, to +taste it and to test its quality. + +"And before it is shipped away it is also very carefully weighed, when I +myself, I know, for instance, sit by, watching the process, and taking +account of the result." + +"I suppose tea isn't ever sent about in wheel-barrows?" then said +Leonard, who liked very much indeed the idea of wheel-barrows with sails +up, such as he had heard about. + +[Illustration: GOING TO MARKET.] + +"I never saw it," was the merchant's reply; "but if you are interested +in wheel-barrows, you might like to hear about one that I once saw in +China. It was conveying not only goods, and the scales wherewith to +weigh them, to market, but the family also to whom the goods belonged. +The family party made a great impression upon me. The master of the +barrow was pushing it from behind, a donkey was pulling it in front, and +on the donkey rode a boy; a woman and two children were driven in the +wheel-barrow, besides the goods for market. I thought the man and donkey +must have a heavy load between them, but both seemed to work most +cheerfully and willingly; and a sail in the centre of the wheel-barrow, +gathering the full force of the wind, must have been a great help to +them. + +"The donkey was guided by no reins, only by the voice of the boy on his +back, who carried a stick, but had no occasion to use it, although every +now and then he just raised it in the air. Sometimes the boy ran beside +the donkey. Anyhow suited the willing little beast, who was as anxious +as his master to do his best. A dog completed the number of the party. + +"The man told me that he was truly fond of this dog, and gave him +'plenty chow-chow' (plenty to eat), and that he considered he owed all +his wealth to him, as he had once come to the house, and had since then +remained with the family. + +"A strange dog coming to, and remaining at, a house is looked upon by +the Chinese as bringing good luck to the family, but a strange cat +coming is a bad omen." + +The children laughed. + +"This man certainly treated his dog very well, as do some few of his +countrymen; but, alas! alas! so many poor little faithful dogs in China, +as in other countries, lead anything but happy lives!" + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +LITTLE CHU AND WOO-URH. + + +[Illustration] + +NO more story Peep-shows of what might be seen in China, no more +wondering what the Celestials would be like, for Sybil and Leonard had +now landed on Chinese soil, and were themselves at Shanghai, face to +face with its inhabitants. + +Shanghai seemed, and was, a very busy place, but not a town of very +great importance in itself, owing, really, its recent prosperity to +having opened its port to foreign commerce. The custom-house, through +which the Grahams' boxes had to be passed, struck the children as a +very strange and beautiful building, quite different from anything that +they had seen before; and there was a great noise of chattering going on +outside, which sounded most unintelligible. Coolies were carrying bales +of silk and tea to and fro; there were also, ready at hand, some of the +sedan-chairs that Sybil had longed to see, and everywhere "pig-tails," +or cues, as they were called, seemed to meet Leonard's gaze. + +But the ships! Watching them was what he enjoyed better than anything +else. The town of Shanghai is situated on the River Woosung, a tributary +of the Yangtse-kiang, just at that point where it joins the great river, +and about one hundred ships were anchored before this busy, commercial +city. Many families resident there have their junks and a little home on +the river. There were some very pretty buildings to be seen at Shanghai, +and at one of these our little party stayed--on a visit to another +missionary from the Church of England--for the three days that they +remained there. + +At some cities and towns, on the banks of rivers, floating hotels are to +be seen; and as people generally have to travel by water, and the +Chinese are not allowed to keep open their city-gates after nine o'clock +at night, these hotels prove very useful to those arriving too late to +enter the city. Lighted with lanterns, they look very pretty floating on +the water, and both Sybil and Leonard were very pleased to be taken over +a large floating hotel before they left Shanghai. Leonard was very +anxious to know how long this town had been open to foreign commerce, +and was told since the Opium War, which lasted from 1840 to 1842, when +the British, having occupied several Chinese cities, and having +captured Chinkiang in Hoopeh, were advancing to Nanking, and the Chinese +suing for peace, a treaty was concluded which opened the ports of Amoy, +Foochow, Shanghai, and Ningpo, in addition to Canton, to the British, +who were henceforward to appoint consuls to live in these towns. + +The Chinese are very polite to foreigners in Shanghai; and as the kind +missionary who bade the Grahams welcome to his home endeavoured, during +their short stay, to interest and show them sights, they enjoyed +themselves very much. Sybil and Leonard could not help noticing how very +many people they met in spectacles, but they were told that the Chinese +suffer very much from ophthalmia, and that when they wear spectacles, +some of which are very large, they often have sore eyes. + +"There is one thing I cannot understand the Chinese doing," Leonard said +one day to Sybil: "and that is, everybody that we have seen, as yet, +spoiling their tea by not taking any milk or sugar in it; and father +says all the Chinese drink tea like that, and call milk white blood, and +only use it in medicine." + +"Tea like that would not suit us," Sybil answered, "as we like plenty of +both milk and sugar; but I dare say they think we spoil our tea by +putting such things into it." + +A visit to some rice-fields, a little sight-seeing, a little more +watching of ships carrying rice and other products away, and then it was +time for the Grahams once more to take their seats on board. + +[Illustration: THE CUSTOM-HOUSE, SHANGHAI.] + +We can imagine how both children strained their eyes, as they steamed +farther and farther away from Shanghai, to see what that port looked +like in the distance, and how Sybil examined her map as they left the +province of Kiang-su, to see at what port, and in what province, they +would next touch. + +This was Ningpo, in Che-kiang, but they did not land here; neither did +they go on shore at their next halting-place, Foochow, in the province +of Fu-kien. It was at Amoy, in the same province, where their father had +a missionary friend, who had invited them to pay him a few days' or a +week's visit, as would suit them best, that they next purposed landing, +and this they did about four days after they left Shanghai. + +"Whoever thought," Sybil said one day on board, "that we should actually +be on the Yellow Sea ourselves? It seems almost too good to be true +now." + +"I never knew people like to stare more at anybody than they seem to +like to stare at us here," Leonard thought to himself when first at +Amoy. + +He and Sybil were then being very carefully observed by a group of +natives of that place, but Leonard had yet to become accustomed to being +stared at in China. + +"And, father," he said later, "I wonder why so many of them wear +turbans? I did not notice people doing this at Shanghai." + +[Illustration: A FLOATING HOTEL AT SHANGHAI.] + +Mr. Graham did not know the reason of this either; but he and Leonard +were later informed that the men of Amoy adopted the turban to hide the +tail when they were made to wear it by their conquerors, and that they +never gave it up. Leonard was also told that they were good soldiers, +which, he said, he thought they looked. One thing remarkable about the +people of Amoy was that the different families seemed to consist +almost entirely of boys. A great many of the inhabitants were very poor, +living crowded together in dirty houses very barely furnished. Mrs. +Graham had not to be long in China to discover that cleanliness is not a +Chinese virtue. Sybil bought some very pretty artificial flowers of some +of the inhabitants of Amoy, which they had themselves made. They +manufactured them principally, she heard, to be placed on graves. + +[Illustration: THE PORT OF SHANGHAI.] + +Like other Chinese, these people were very superstitious. Here and there +large blocks of granite were to be met with, which were regarded by them +with reverence, and looked upon as good divinities. On one the Grahams +saw inscriptions, which related some history of the place. + +Granite seemed to abound here, for the temples and monasteries were, for +the most part, erected on the heights between rocks of this description. + +Two days after reaching Amoy, Sybil was dreadfully distressed, and +shocked, to see a little girl named Chu, of eleven years old, put up for +sale by her own parents. At ten dollars (L1) only was she valued; and +for this paltry sum the parents were ready to sell her to any one who +would bid it for her. They were very poor, and could not afford to keep +her any longer. She had four sisters and only two brothers; the youngest +of all, the baby, was to be drowned by her father, later on in the day, +in a tub of water. They had never done anything like this before: this +man and woman had never killed a child, although they had had five +girls, and many of their neighbours had thought nothing of destroying +most of their daughters so soon as they were born; but now, as the man +was ill, and able to earn so little, they had resolved to rid themselves +of two of them that day. If the baby lived, the mother comforted herself +by saying, she must be sold later, or grow up in poverty and misery. + +Parents think it very necessary that their children should marry, and +sometimes sell, or give them away, to their friends, when they are quite +little, to be the future wives of the sons of their new owners. + +If sold, they will then fetch about two dollars for every year that they +have lived; so a child of five years old would fetch ten dollars; and +this little girl, put up for sale, was now eleven years old; therefore +she was being offered, poor little thing, below half price. And some +little girls of Amoy have been even offered for sale for a few pence! + +[Illustration: A FAMILY OF AMOY.] + +It seemed incomprehensible to Sybil, as it must to us, that a mother +could wish either to kill or to sell her little child, but neither the +one nor the other event is uncommon in some parts of China, where the +parent is poor; and even amongst the well-to-do classes little girls are +sometimes put to death, if the parents have more daughters than they +care to rear, not only at Amoy, but at other places in the +neighbourhood; and even Chinese ladies will sometimes have their poor +little daughters put to death. + +"Why do people not kill their boys too?" Sybil asked, when she heard all +about this. + +[Illustration: THE MISSIONARY'S TEACHER.] + +"Because when they grow up they can earn money that girls could not +earn; and not only can they help to support their parents when old, but +they can worship their ancestral tablets and keep up the family name." + +"I am sure a girl would do this too." + +"Her doing so would be considered of little use." + +[Illustration: A VIEW OF AMOY, WITH A BLOCK OF GRANITE IN THE +FOREGROUND.] + +It seemed that the very day before Mr. Graham arrived in Amoy, a widow +lady there had had her little baby girl destroyed, and then, in her +widow's dress, had sat down quietly to talk matters over with her +sister-in-law, who thought that she had acted very wisely. Killing a +daughter, in China, is hardly looked upon as being sinful. A widow's +mourning consists of all white and a band round the head, white being +Chinese deepest mourning. + +[Illustration: LADIES OF AMOY.] + +[Illustration: LITTLE CHU.] + +Whilst Mr. Graham stood by, a purchaser for little Chu stepped forward, +holding the ten dollars in his hand; but the missionary was before him, +and through a teacher, whom he had already been able to engage, offered +the father twice that sum not to sell the little girl at all, but to let +him have her for a servant. He hesitated, as though he would rather sell +his child right off to any Chinaman than trust her to a foreign +"barbarian." But the sum tempted him; and although he could not +understand how receiving it did not give Chu altogether to her +purchaser, he seemed to be contented, especially when the teacher +explained that she would not be a slave, but would be paid for what work +she did. Little Chu was well off to have stepped into so happy a +service, and the baby was rescued also. A certain sum was to be paid +weekly to the father, towards her support, until he recovered his +health, if he would only spare her; and both parents, who really fondly +loved their children, were very glad to spare their baby, fifth girl +though she was. Her name was Woo-Urh, which means fifth girl. + +It did not take long to have little Chu tidily dressed, with money that +her new master supplied, and her poor mother, who had some beads stowed +away, now looked them out and also put these on her. Chu was only eleven +years old, but poverty and care had given the little one an old +expression beyond her years. Chinese children of from ten to sixteen +years of age--about which time they are supposed to marry--have a fringe +cut over their foreheads, and Chu wore this fringe now. It has to grow +again before they marry. + +That evening Chu was sent round to Mr. Graham's brother missionary's +house, where, as Sybil's little maid, she was housed for the two or +three days longer that they would spend at Amoy; and though Chu had come +to live with foreigners, in the family of a "barbarian," as her father +thought, we can well imagine that she had never been so happy in her +life. Mr. Graham had told her parents that when they reached Hong-Kong +he should send her to the mission school. + +"And the father would have killed the baby himself!" said Sybil. "How +could he have done so?" + +"That is the marvel; but it is generally the fathers who commit the +deed; other people might be punished if they interfered." + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +LEONARD'S EXPLOIT IN FORMOSA. + + +ABOUT the middle of November, eleven weeks after Mr. Graham and his +family had left England, they arrived in the beautiful island of +Formosa, whither they had crossed over from Amoy. + +Three more persons were now added to the travelling party--the teacher, +a Chinese maid, and little Chu, the latter having already begun to show +herself really useful. + +[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO THE PORT OF TAKOW.] + +There is but little fun in travelling, and one does not see half there +is to be seen unless one climbs; and as the Grahams were all bent on +having fun and seeing as much as they could, on reaching the port of +Takow, in Formosa, they ascended a very high mountain, called Monkey +Mountain, because it is the home of very many monkeys, and they were +rewarded by having, from its height, a capital view of the entrance to +the port. To the front of the mountain were some European houses, +belonging to English merchants from Amoy. The port of Takow is a very +difficult one at which to anchor, and is closed for commerce during six +months of the year, whilst the wind is blowing in an adverse direction; +but when the wind and tide are favourable, barks pass between some rocks +at the entrance to the port. It is only at the north that the water is +deep enough for merchant-ships to pass by. Here Leonard saw men fishing +quite differently from what he had ever seen people fish before; and as +they walked in the water behind their nets, which they seemed to manage +very cleverly, he wished so much that he could have been there with +them. + +Takow is one of the four ports in Formosa which, through treaties, have +been thrown open to foreign trade, the others being those of Kelung, +Tamsui, and Taiwan-fu. + +[Illustration: THE EXTREME NORTH OF TAKOW.] + +Formosa, as its name implies, is a very lovely, picturesque island, and +the Spaniards, who first made it known to Europeans, named it "Isla +Formosa," which, in their language, means "beautiful island." Takow +seemed to abound in tropical vegetation, palm-trees being very +conspicuous. The gong, used everywhere in China, was much in use here +also; and as in other places men carried things by balancing them across +their shoulders, so also they did here. But as Mr. Graham's special +object in coming to this island was to visit Poahbi, the first centre of +the population of a tribe of aborigines, whom the Chinese have named +Pepohoans, or strangers of the plain, he moved on thither as quickly as +he could. The country through which they now passed was very beautiful, +palm-trees and bamboos overshadowing the way. + +[Illustration: FISHERMEN OF TAKOW.] + +Although it was the month of November, the weather was hot here, and +women, wearing white calico dresses, were hard at work in the fields. +Many of the women of Formosa had compressed feet, and most of the +children wore charms round their necks. + +The Pepohoans used to live in fertile plains, but when greedy and +grasping Chinese drove them from the rich and beautiful lands that were +then theirs, and had belonged to their ancestors before them, they took +shelter, and made themselves homes, in mountain fastnesses. + +Sybil and Leonard were charmed with the people of Poahbi, and thought +both their faces and manners very pretty. Although some of the people +stared at the foreigners, and laughed at them, many wished to make them +welcome in their midst. One woman gave them shelter for the night--a +very kind-hearted woman, with a dear little baby, and a very clean and +comfortable home. She was a Christian. + +At Poahbi Mr. Graham saw a little Christian chapel, which the natives +had not only built, but which they also kept up, themselves. Pepohoans +are good builders, and do also much work in the fields. They have a most +affectionate remembrance of the Dutch, who were once their masters, but +who were afterwards expelled from Formosa by a Chinese pirate. + +[Illustration: VIEW OF TAKOW, A TOWN IN FORMOSA.] + +The huts, or bamboo cottages, of the Pepohoans, raised on terraces three +or four feet high, looked very picturesque, and consisted first of a +framework of bamboo, through which crossbars of reeds were run; the +whole being thickly covered over with clay. The houses were afterwards +whitened with lime. A barrier of prickly stems extended round the huts, +throwing a shade over them, whilst these dwellings often had for roofing +a thatch of dried leaves. Most things in Formosa were made of bamboo, +such as tables, chairs, beds, pails, rice-measures, jars, hats, pipes, +chop-sticks, goblets, paper, and pens. Many of the Pepohoans' +habitations were built on three sides of a four-cornered spot, with a +yard in the centre, where the families sometimes passed their evenings +together. The natives assembled here, in numbers, at about nine o'clock, +where they made a fire when it was cold. Old and young people here often +formed a circle on the ground, sitting together with their arms crossed, +smoking, and talking. It was not unusual for dogs also to surround them. +These people were fond of singing, but played no musical instruments. +Sybil said, directly she saw them, that they were just the sort of +people she liked, but this was before she heard that they ate serpents +and rats. The women had a quantity of hair, which they wound round their +heads like crowns. None of them painted their faces. Some of the men +were very badly dressed. All Pepohoans seemed to have very beautiful +black eyes. In the different villages the inhabitants were different, +and where they had most contact with the Chinese they dressed better, +but were less affable. They seemed to be a very honest race. + +The Pepohoans are subject to the Chinese Government. Some of them, like +the Chinese, have been ruined by opium. The aborigines, consisting of +different tribes, talk different dialects. The people of one tribe, the +most savage of all, are very warlike, and think nothing of killing and +eating their Chinese neighbours when they get the chance to do so; +therefore, they are held in great terror. Sybil and Leonard would not +have liked to have visited this tribe, for they also hate Europeans. + +[Illustration: MOUNTAINEERS OF FORMOSA.] + +There was a grandness of beauty in this island of Formosa which could +not fail, more and more, to charm Mrs. Graham, and many a pretty sketch +did she here make, both for herself and for Sybil's letters. Sybil also +liked being here very much; "but if she had only seen," Leonard said, +what he and his father saw one day, when they went for a ramble +through the mountains, whilst Sybil was helping her mother to sketch by +keeping her company, and making clever little attempts at sketching +herself, "she would want to be off that very moment." + +There were caverns in Formosa, and they were walking along, exploring +some, Leonard some little way in front of Mr. Graham, the teacher, and a +native guide, who followed a few yards behind, when the English boy +suddenly caught sight of two huge, yellow serpents twined round the +branch of an overhanging tree. No one but Leonard was near enough to see +them, and as the first creature stretched its dreadful-looking head out, +hissing towards him, the brave, self-possessed little fellow, who held a +stick in his hand, struck his deadly foe with it with all his might, and +hit and aimed so well that he had the satisfaction, the next moment, of +seeing the serpent roll over and over down the rock. But then the +further one (which, although rather smaller than the other, measured +about six feet) wound, in a moment, its wriggling body round the branch +of the tree, stretching its head out almost within reach of Leonard, +when the boy-guide and Mr. Graham, the same instant, came upon the spot. +The boy, accustomed to such encounters, at once dealt the snake a blow, +that caused it to lose its balance, and thus all were able to pass on +their way in thankfulness and safety. + +When Sybil heard of the adventure she was very proud of her little +brother; but, as he had imagined when she heard that Formosa was +inhabited by serpents, she was glad also to think that it was settled +for them to leave that island for Swatow in two days' time. + +[Illustration: PEPOHOANS AND THEIR HUT.] + +That evening was spent very pleasantly comparing notes of adventure +with an English gentleman, who had been in Formosa for some time, and +now called upon Mr. Graham and his family, who were staying at the +consul's. He had seen and done a good deal, he said, but he spoke very +highly of Leonard's brave exploit. + +[Illustration: HUT OF ONE OF THE SAVAGE TRIBES.] + +In the course of his wanderings, he told them, he had visited the +village of Lalung, which is situated on the narrowest part of a large +river. During the rainy season the waters would here rise and cover a +vast bed, opening out a new passage across the land, and flowing away +towards the eastern plain. Great mountain heights surrounded the bed of +the river, and the violence of the torrent carried away very large +quantities of all sorts of rubbish, which the sea would collect, and +deposit, along the eastern coast. Mr. Hardy explained to Leonard how +this would account for the port of Thai-ouan disappearing, and that of +Takow forming lower down. + +[Illustration: SERPENTS OF FORMOSA.] + +[Illustration: THE BED OF THE RIVER LALUNG DURING THE DRY SEASON.] + +"Formosa," he continued, "shows very plainly how the violence of waters +can quite transform the physical aspect of a country." + +Mr. Hardy then told them that he, with a guide, had once visited the bed +of the river of Lalung, during the dry season, as an explorer, when he +had taken off his boots and socks, so as to be able to walk wherever he +chose, and fathom the depth of the water in different parts. + +How Leonard wished he had been with him on this occasion, which seemed +to him a regular voyage of discovery! + +Two days later, as arranged, the Grahams made sail for Swatow. In +crossing the channel, which separates the island from the mainland, +Leonard, as usual, had some questions to ask. + +"What made the Chinese call Formosa Tai-wan?" + +"Because that word means the terraced harbour." + +"The east coast hasn't a harbour at all, has it?" + +"No; mountains are on the east, and to the west are flat and fertile +plains, and all the ports." + +"I suppose you know, Sybil, that there are some wild beasts in Formosa?" +Leonard went on. + +"Yes, I heard Mr. Hardy say so: leopards, tigers, and wolves." + +"I think it's my turn to ask a question now," Mrs. Graham said. "I +wonder if you and Sybil can tell me what grows principally in Formosa?" + +"Rice," Sybil began, "sugar, wheat, beans, tea, coffee, pepper." + +"Cotton, tobacco, silk, oranges, peaches, and plums," Leonard ended. "We +saw most of these things growing ourselves, so we ought to know." + +"Yes; and flax, indigo, camphor, and many fruits that you have not +mentioned." + +"The Chinese part of the island, I suppose, belongs to Fukien?" Sybil +said, "as it is painted the same colour on my map." + +"Yes." + +What religion had the aborigines? she then wanted to know. + +Mr. Graham answered this question by telling her that he believed they +had no priesthood at all. + +"What a pity it is," Sybil said, "that a number of missionaries could +not be sent out there. I do so like the Pepohoans!" + +"How long is it now since the Dutch were driven away?" Leonard asked. +"And how long were they in Formosa?" + +"About 1634 the Dutch took possession of the island, and built several +forts, but a Chinese pirate drove them out in 1662, and made himself +king of the western part. In 1683 his descendants submitted to the +authority of the Chinese Emperor, to whom they are now tributary. The +Chinese colonists, however, often rebel." + +"People have not known very long, have they, that the island of Formosa +is important?" + +"No; only since about 1852." + +"About how many inhabitants has Thai-ouan, the capital?" Leonard asked. + +"I should think about 70,000, but it is now decreasing in population." + +"How much you know, father," Sybil said. "I wish I knew all you did!" + +"I am afraid that is not very much; but if you notice things that you +come across, and try to remember what you hear and what you read, you +will soon gain plenty of knowledge and useful information." + +[Illustration: SWATOW.] + +"I wonder what Swatow is like?" Leonard then said; but he had not long +to wait to find out, for a week after leaving Formosa they landed at +Swatow, the port of Chaou-Chou-foo, in the province of Kwang-tung, where +once again, for a fortnight, they were made very welcome: this time by +some friends of the missionary with whom they had stayed at Amoy. + +[Illustration: E-CHUNG.] + +Their home, for the present, was very prettily situated on a range of +low hills. Many pieces of granite were scattered about on the summit of +these hills, as they were about Amoy, which some people say have been +caused to appear through volcanic irruptions. On them also were Chinese +inscriptions. Leonard was delighted because the Chinese teacher cut his +name on one of these pieces of granite. The houses of Swatow were built +with a kind of mortar, made of China clay, and attached to some of them +were very pretty gardens. + +In front of the Consulate, which was a very large building, was a +flag-staff, with a flag flying. + +[Illustration: WOMAN OF SWATOW.] + +The ceilings of the house, in which the Grahams stayed, was painted with +flowers and birds, and some of the windows were also painted so as to +look like open fans. The Chinese are fond of decorating their rooms and +painting their ornaments, and the people of Swatow seemed to be better +painters than the Chinese; but they kept their pictures hidden, only a +very few of them producing any to show our friends. The people of Swatow +are also noted for fan-painting. + +Sybil thought some of the women of Swatow rather nice-looking, but, like +other ladies of the "Flowery Land," they had a wonderful way of dressing +their hair. One woman, Leonard declared, had hers done to represent a +large shell. A young lady, to whom Sybil was introduced, had the +thickest hair that she had ever seen. She and other Chinese girls wore +it hanging down their backs in twists. She was just fifteen, and Sybil +was told that she was going to be married in about a year's time, so she +would soon have to begin to let her fringe grow. She was the daughter of +a rich man, and had such pretty, dark eyes. + +Round a girl's and woman's head, or to fasten up her back hair, +ornaments are generally worn. E-Chung wore rather a large one round her +head. Sybil was allowed to spend an afternoon, and take some tea, with +this young lady, but they could not talk much together. E-Chung knew, +and spoke, a little of what is called pidgin, or business English, +because many business, or shop, people and those who mix most with the +English, speak this strange language to them; but Sybil could understand +hardly any of it. Before E-Chung heard that Sybil had a brother, she +said to her, "You one piecee chilo?" meaning to ask if she were the only +child. Then she was trying to describe somebody to Sybil whose +appearance did not please her, so she made an ugly grimace and said, +"That number one ugly man all-same so fashion," meaning "just like +this." Another time she meant to ask Sybil if she were not very rich, so +she said, "You can muchee money?" + +The hair down Sybil's back was such a contrast to her friend's, as was +also her rather pale complexion. E-Chung wished very much to enamel +Sybil's face, as she did her own, and could not understand why she +should so persistently refuse to have it done. + +Chinese ladies seldom do without their rouge, and often keep their +amahs, or maids, from three to four hours at a time doing their hair. + +[Illustration: SYBIL.] + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +THE BOAT POPULATION. + + +MR. GRAHAM had thought of visiting Chaou-chou, a very fertile city on +the river Han, but was advised not to do so, as foreigners are disliked +by its inhabitants; and he was therefore told that they might have cause +to regret going thither. It used not to be an uncommon thing for these +people to greet an Englishman with a shower of stones. People have tried +to establish an English consulate there, but have not succeeded, +although the city is open to foreign commerce; and Jui Lin, the late +viceroy of Canton, succeeded in making people in the neighbourhood much +more orderly. + +A very large bridge crosses the Han River at this place, a picture of +which the teacher had, and showed to the children. It is made of stone, +and composed of many arches, or rather square gateways, under which +ships pass to and fro. On the bridge, on each side of the causeway, are +houses and shops. + +[Illustration: THE BRIDGE OF CHAOU CHOU.] + +"I should not care much to live in them," said Leonard. + +Nor would the teacher, he replied; for they did not look, and were not +supposed to be, at all safe. + +[Illustration: ARCH OF THE BRIDGE OF CHAOU-CHOU.] + +Two pieces of wood are suspended between the arches, which the +inhabitants take up in the day-time and let down at night, to prevent, +as they say, evil spirits passing under their homes and playing them +tricks. + +It was a very happy fortnight that was spent at Swatow, and Sybil was +sorry to leave this port to go on to Hong-Kong. Somehow, although they +were not going to settle down now, and had still Macao and Canton to +visit, it seemed like bringing the end nearer--going much nearer to it, +when they went to Hong-Kong even for a few days, for there her parents +were to be left behind when she and Leonard returned to England. This +English colony, the little island of Hong-Kong, about eight miles in +length, is separated from the mainland by a very narrow strait, in the +midst of a number of small islands. + +[Illustration: CHINESE BOAT-CHILDREN.] + +The Bishop of Hong-Kong had kindly invited Mr. Graham and his family to +stay at his residence, St. Paul's College, during the few days that they +now remained at Hong-Kong, before continuing their tour and returning to +settle down, and the kind invitation had been gladly and gratefully +accepted. + +[Illustration: CHAIR-MEN OF HONG-KONG.] + +The missionary's party landed in a boat, or rather, in a floating house, +for the people to whom it belonged lived here, and it was their only +home. + +The children had heard that there were so many inhabitants in China +that for very many of them there was no house accommodation, and that +these lived in boats, and were called the boat population; and Leonard +was delighted to be travelling in one of these house-boats himself, and +seeing the homes of the boat people. Their very little children were +tied to doors, and other parts of the boat, by long ropes. Those who +were three or four years old had floats round their backs, so that if +they fell overboard they would not sink, and their parents could jump in +after them. Most care seemed to be taken of the boys. Instead of being +dedicated to "Mother," boat-children, soon after they are born, are +dedicated to Kow-wong, or Nine Kings, and for three days and nights +before they marry, which ceremony takes place in the middle of the +night, Taouist priests chant prayers to the Kow-wong. + +The boats in which live the Taouist priests, for the boat population, +are called Nam-Mo-Teng. These are anchored in certain parts, that the +priests may be sent for when needed. Their boats look partly like +temples, and have altars and idols, also incense burning within them. +The names of the priests who live there, and the rites they perform, are +written up in the boats. The boat people can have everything they +require without going on shore at all. There are even river barbers and +policemen, which latter are very necessary, considering that there are +so many pirates. + +[Illustration: A PORTRAIT-PAINTER OF HONG-KONG.] + +It seemed strange to Sybil and Leonard to think that boat-children never +went on shore, might never do so, and would even marry on board their +boat homes; but it did not seem at all strange to the little children +themselves, who played about on board quite as happily as did children +on shore. They looked strong, and seemed to be fond of one another. One +woman going along was very angry with one of her children, and for a +punishment threw him into the water, but he had a float on his back, +and was quickly brought back again. These women often carry their +children on their backs, but this is a most usual way of carrying +children in China, both amongst the land and water people. + +Sybil had already often had her wish fulfilled, of travelling in +sedan-chairs, and as that is the regular mode of travelling in +Hong-Kong, directly they arrived here coolies were to be seen, standing +and sitting, on the pier beside their chairs, waiting for a fare. Very +eager they seemed to be to secure either people or their baggage. And +Sybil liked being borne along in these chairs even better than she had +expected. + +The sedans were made of bamboo, covered with oil-cloth, and carried on +long poles. A great many sedan-chair-bearers have no fixed homes, living +day and night in the open air, and buying their food at stalls on the +road. They take care to keep their chairs in very good condition, ready +to hire out whenever they are needed. Leonard was charmed with his +bearers. They spoke such funny pigeon English to him, and made him +wonder why they would put "ee" to the end of so many of their words. +When Leonard once wished to speak to his father, who was on in front, +and succeeded in making his bearers understand this, one of them said +"My no can catchee." They admired the boy very much, and wanted to +persuade him to let them carry him one day to a "handsome +face-taking-man," but he could not understand at all, at first, that +they wanted him to let them carry him somewhere to have his portrait +taken. "My likee," one said, pointing to Leonard's face, "welly much." +The Chinese do not paint pictures very well, and sometimes, instead of a +brush, will use their fingers and nails. + +[Illustration: VIEW OF HONG-KONG.] + +The chair-men called Leonard "Captain" several times, which seemed to be +a common way of addressing strange "gentlemen." + +They then asked him how Mr. Turner was, but he shook his head to show +that he knew nobody of this name. They either did not understand or +believe him. + +"He hab got London-side," they explained. + +Thinking that if he tacked a double "e" on to all his words he would be +speaking the language they talked so much, he said "No-ee know-ee," and +shook his head again. I think it was the expression on his face, and the +shake of his head, which made them understand at last what he wished to +say to them. + +It seems that the natives of Hong-Kong, as well as other parts of China, +think that every Englishman must know every other Englishman; having, +indeed, such very small ideas of our important country, that they really +think our wealth consists in our possessing Hong-Kong. + +[Illustration: THE CLOCK TOWER, HONG-KONG.] + +The first view that the Grahams had of this little island was a chain of +mountains rising in the background to lofty peaks, and diminishing as +they approached the sea into small hills and steep rocks. Not so very +long ago, Sybil was told, Hong-Kong used to be a deserted island, though +it now contained flower-gardens, orchards, woods, large trees, beautiful +grass slopes, and very many buildings. The English town of Victoria was +built along the sea-coast. As Hong-Kong belongs to Great Britain, the +Government here was, of course, English; there were Christian temples, +as well as Buddhist, and many European edifices were conspicuous in the +Chinese streets. Then there were also large European club-houses, and, +best of all, the Cathedral. The sea-shore stretched round towards a +very beautiful port, which opened out to the west by a pass called +Lyce-moun, and to the east by the Lama Pass. + +"I do think, do you know, Leonard," Sybil said, as she wished her +brother "Good-night" the evening after they had arrived at Hong-Kong, +"that China is rather a 'Flowery Land' after all. I do not think I shall +ever forget Formosa, at all events." + +"We have seen pretty sights since we came to China," Leonard said, +agreeing with his sister. + +The next day Sybil and he were taken into the Queen's Road, which +crossed the town from west to east, to the right of which was a regular +labyrinth of streets, some leading into very fine roads. In one part of +Hong-Kong nothing but shops and houses of business were to be seen. One +of its principal ornaments was the tall clock-tower, which made even +high trees beside it look quite small. + +The most ancient houses of the colony are in a street that leads to the +clock-tower, and close by it is also the hotel of Hong-Kong. Into this +Sybil and Leonard were taken to have some tiffin, or lunch, whilst their +sedans and bearers waited for them not far off, under some trees. + +Leonard took a good view afterwards of a man in a turban whom they +passed, because, as he was so important a person as a policeman, he +thought Sybil might like to describe him in one of her letters, and she +might perhaps forget what he was like. + +Sybil had, as yet, only written one of her promised letters, but this +had been full of news, and had told of rides in sedan-chairs, little Chu +and Woo-urh, and all sorts of things; and before they moved on to +Macao, she had determined to write another letter, and tell of Leonard +saving himself from the serpent, and what they saw in Hong-Kong. This +seemed to be a very busy place. Steamers were always either coming or +going; and here, too, telegrams were constantly arriving. Besides +English merchants, Chinese, American, French, German, Hindoo merchants, +and others also traded with the little island, and shared what wealth +she had. Hong-Kong is very English-looking, compared with other places +in China, and the people are not only governed by English laws, but +their crimes are tried by English judges. But even at Canton, Shanghai, +and other ports where the English have settlements, they now claim, and +have a voice in trials for crime. It is only because Hong-Kong belongs +to the English that telegraph-wires are to be found there, as the +Chinese will not have them anywhere else, because they think that they +would offend the ghosts, or spirits, of the places through which they +would pass. For the same reason also the Chinese have hardly any +railroads. Even children could easily recognise here the introduction of +English ways and manners. + +Lily Keith was very fond of shopping, therefore in her next letter Sybil +not only gave an account of Leonard's bravery, of which she was really +more proud than Leonard himself, but also described a visit that she had +paid to some shops. + + "We went to some of the best of all the shops in + Hong-Kong to-day," she wrote, "and as we were + going into the door of one, the proprietor came to + meet us. Father said he was a merchant. He spoke + English, and was very grandly dressed in silk, and + wore worked shoes. His shopmen also wore very + handsome clothes, and served us standing behind + beautifully polished counters. In one part of the + shop were all kinds of silk materials, and some + stuff called grass-matting. We went down-stairs to + see furniture and beautiful porcelain. The + principal curiosities had come from Canton, so I + suppose when we get there we shall find still + better things; and in Canton people paint on that + pretty rice paper. Across the road were meat, + fish, vegetable, and puppy-dog shops. Yes, the + Chinese do eat dogs: in some shops in Hong-Kong we + have seen a number for sale; and they eat cats and + rats too. We could tell a shop in which clothes + were sold some little distance off, because an + imitation jacket, or something of that sort, was + hung up outside, as well as the long sign-boards, + which told what kind of shops they were. Leonard + says I am to tell you that a policeman was + outside. He always knows policemen now by turbans + that they wear, and they often hold a little cane + in their hands; and on the pathway a man sat, + wearing a hat just like one of those funny-looking + things, with a point, that we wore for fun + sometimes in the garden. There are no windows to + the shops. + +[Illustration: TEMPLE OF KWAN-YIN.] + + "Oh! but some of the Chinese do believe such + strange things. The other day our amah told + Leonard and me to chatter our teeth three times + and blow. We could not understand what she meant + us to do until she did it first. We had heard a + crow caw, so she thought if we did not do this + afterwards we should be very unlucky. The other + day a coolie fell down and broke a number of + things. He had not to replace any of them, but the + master had to buy all the things again because it + was fine weather. If it had been dirty and + slippery, the boy must have bought them. None of + us could understand the meaning of this till it + was explained to us. If it had been a slippery + day, the boy ought to have taken care, and it + would have been very careless of him to fall; but + if he did so in fine weather, some god must have + made him slip, they think, and therefore he could + not help it. The heathen Chinese have such a + number of gods and goddesses. + +[Illustration: A SHADOW-SHOW.] + + "The other day we passed the Temple of Kwan-Yin, + the goddess of mercy. The Hong-Kong people think + an immense deal of her, and her temple is in such + a pretty place, with many trees round it. She is a + Buddhist divinity. A number of beggars were + outside begging, and they nearly always get + something here. Very many Chinese beggars are + blind, and there are also lepers in China. + Barriers were put up to keep visitors, who were + not wanted, such as evil spirits, from going in. + People say that evil spirits only care to go + through a straight way, and never trouble to go + anywhere in a crooked direction. Over the doorway + were some characters, which father's teacher has + written out for me. They were, being read from + right to left, backwards: 'Teen How Kov Meaou,' + and signify, 'The Ancient Temple of the Queen of + Heaven.' Tien-How is the goddess of sailors, and + often called 'The Queen of Heaven.' To the right + was a doctor's shop, where prescriptions were sold + to the priests; and to the left an old priest was + selling little tapers which the worshippers were + to burn. We looked in for a few moments, and saw + people kneeling down and asking the goddess to + cure their sick friends. She was seated at the end + of the temple, behind an altar, on which were + bronze vases, candles, and lighted sticks of + incense. A gong was outside, and on the walls of + the temple were different representations of acts + of mercy that the goddess was supposed to have + performed. On the roof were dragons. The dragon is + the Chinese god of rain. + + "Leonard says I am to tell you that some of the + Celestials thought once that he was going to beat + them because he carried a walking-stick. Chinamen, + excepting policemen and mandarins, are only + allowed to carry them when they grow old. + + "We saw a very strange sort of show the other day, + called a shadow-show. A man, inside a kind of + Punch and Judy house, made, with the help of a + lantern, all sorts of figures, or rather, shadows, + appear on the top of the Punch and Judy. It looked + so strange, but Leonard said he thought the people + looking at it were stranger still, what with the + hats they wore and the funny way they did their + hair. He declared one woman had horns. I never saw + such pretty lanterns as the Chinese have. Father + says that on the fifteenth day of their first + month (which is not always the same, as their New + Year's Day, like our Easter, is a movable feast + regulated by the moon) there is a feast of + lanterns, when all people, both on land and on the + water, hang up most beautiful lamps, some being + made to look like animals, balls of fire, or even + like Kwan-Yin herself holding a child. + + "Is it not strange New Year's Day next year will + be on the twenty-ninth of January, and in 1882 on + February eighteenth? + + "I seem to have ever so much more to tell you, but + I am too tired now to write it. I am glad you + liked mother's pictures that I sent last time. I + could only write that one short letter in Formosa. + We are going on to Macao (it is pronounced Macow) + the day after to-morrow, then we stay at Canton, + and then come back here. It will be so dreadful + when that time comes, but I try not to think about + it. Dear mother does sometimes, I can see. We all + went to the Cathedral on Sunday. + + "I hope I shall soon have a long letter from you. + "Believe me, dear Lily, + "Always your affectionate friend, + "SYBIL GRAHAM. + + "_Hong-Kong, December, 1880._" + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +AT CANTON. + + +[Illustration] + +A PASSENGER-BOAT conveyed our little travellers, and their parents, in +three days, from Hong-Kong to Macao, a pretty little sea-side place at +the entrance of the Bocca Tigris, a little gulf, to the head of which is +the city of Canton. + +Macao was not as full now as it had been during the summer months, when +many people resort thither from Canton for change of air and to enjoy +the fresh sea-breezes. A beautiful walk, called the Grand Parade, +surrounds its picturesque bay. + +As Macao belongs to the Portuguese, a great many of the inhabitants +speak that language. + +Mr. and Mrs. Graham and their children stayed, whilst at Macao, at the +Grand Hotel, which was situated on the Parade, where was also a very +pretty jetty, on which Sybil and Leonard liked very much to walk. Here, +again, the houses were painted. In a pretty street close by the Grand +Parade, protected on both sides by walls, the Grahams were shown houses +whose windows used to have barriers of iron. These houses, they were +told, were a kind of prison, called Emigration Agencies, but where in +reality poor coolies were kept for sale. This traffic had, happily, now +been done away with. + +Some of the houses in Macao seemed to be painted all colours, and many +of the windows were bordered with red, the favourite colour. Most of the +houses could boast of large rooms. Not very much commerce seemed to be +carried on here. Leonard was one day taken to pay the European troops a +visit in their garrison. + +At four o'clock in the afternoon many people walked upon the Parade. +Most of the Christians here were Roman Catholics, which was natural, +considering that the place belonged to the Portuguese. Bells, calling +people to church, rang two or three times a day, and these, and the +bugle-call from the garrison, were the principal sounds heard. It was +interesting to visit Macao, because here, in its quiet prettiness, the +poet Camoens, when banished, spent some of his lonely years, and wrote a +great part of his epic poem "Lusiad;" and here also a French painter, +named Chinnery, had produced some of his pretty paintings and sketches. +Sybil was old enough to care about such things, and to find both +pleasure and interest in visiting any places once made memorable by the +footprints left there of either good or great men; and when she had +heard the poet's story, she was very sorry for him! + +[Illustration: MACAO.] + +Camoens, who was the epic poet of Portugal, was born in Lisbon in 1524. +An epic poet is one who writes narratives, or stories, which often +relate heroic deeds. When banished by royal authority to Santarem, +Camoens joined the expedition of John III. against Morocco, and lost his +right eye in an engagement with the Moors in the Straits of Gibraltar. +People in Lisbon, who would not admire his poetry, now thought nothing +of his bravery. Sad and disappointed, he went to India in 1553; but +being offended by what he saw the Portuguese authorities doing in India, +he wrote a satire about them, called "Follies in India," and made fun of +the Viceroy. For doing this, he was banished to Macao in 1556, where he +lived for six years, writing "The Lusiad." On being recalled, he was +shipwrecked, and lost everything that he had in the world but this epic +poem, which he held in one hand above the waves, while he swam to shore +with the other; and after suffering many misfortunes, he arrived in +Lisbon in 1569, possessed of nothing else. He dedicated his poem to the +young king Sebastian, who allowed him to stay at the court, and gave him +a pension. But when Sebastian died he had nothing at all, and a faithful +Indian servant begged for him in the streets. At last he died in the +hospital at Lisbon, in 1579. Sixteen years later Camoens was +appreciated, and people hunted for his grave, to erect a monument to his +memory, but had much difficulty even in finding it. + +The "Lusiad" celebrates the chief events in Portugal's history, and has +been called "a gallery of epic pictures, in which all the great +achievements of Portuguese heroism are represented." The poem has been +translated into English, French, Italian, Spanish, German, and Polish. + +After a short, but pleasant, stay at Macao, the Grahams went on to +Canton. + +"The last place but one," Sybil could not help whispering to Leonard on +board. "When we next arrive--" she went on, but tears starting into her +eyes seemed to drown the rest of the sentence. However, as some very +happy weeks had yet to be passed at Canton, neither she nor we must +anticipate. A long visit of two months was to be spent here at the +residence of a personal friend of Mr. Graham, the English consul of the +place. + +A servant was stationed on the steps leading round to the Consulate, or +Yamen, to await the arrival of Mr. and Mrs. Graham and their children. + +This house was situated on a height, and occupied the site of an ancient +palace. It consisted of a suite of buildings, surrounded on one side by +a pretty garden, and on the other by a park, in which deer grazed. Both +Sybil and Leonard thought the deer very pretty; and quite near to the +Yamen was a pagoda of nine storeys, which the Emperor Wong-Ti, who +reigned about the middle of the sixteenth century, is supposed first to +have constructed. + +"How little," Sybil and Leonard said to one another, "we ever thought, +when we examined our little ornamental pagodas at home, that we should +ever live quite near to a real one!" + +A story relating to this pagoda, being told to Leonard, interested him a +good deal. + +[Illustration: THE ENGLISH CONSULATE AT CANTON.] + +In 1859 some English sailors climbed up the old building, which was then +in so tottering a condition that it was a really perilous ascent, and +when they reached the top the Chinese were dreadfully angry, for two +reasons: first, because they looked upon it as sacrilege; and secondly, +because from the height the sailors could look down upon their houses, +and the Chinese dislike very much indeed to be overlooked, especially by +"barbarians." + +The consul and Leonard were soon very good friends, and the elder friend +very kindly did not weary of answering questions put to him by the +little boy. + +"Why is your house called a yamen?" + +"This word means the same as does consulate, the official residence of +the consul." + +"What are you here for?" + +The consul smiled. "To protect your interests and those, commercial and +otherwise, of every English citizen resident here." + +"Who is that Jui-Lin of whom you have a picture? and is he alive now?" + +"He died a few years ago, and was viceroy of Canton. He made so good a +governor that those provinces over which he ruled generally prospered +under his administration. It is in a great measure through his influence +that peaceable relations have, for some time, been established between +China and foreign countries. The Emperor Tau-Kwang, who came to the +throne in 1820, thought so well of him that he made him one of his +ministers. Later he became general of the Tartar garrison at Canton, and +soon after he was made viceroy. He established order in a very +troublesome district, where he made the clan villagers at last +acknowledge some authority, and so put the people and their property in +much greater security." + +[Illustration: JUI-LIN, LATE VICEROY OF CANTON.] + +Leonard said Canton was the place for him, for here he saw ships and +fishing to perfection. In Canton alone, the consul told him, it was +estimated that 300,000 persons had their homes on the water. One +Canton boat-woman, in whose passenger-boat they travelled, said that her +husband went on shore during the day to work, whilst she looked after +the passengers; but he seemed to be rather an exception, for most of the +boat population never went on shore at all, and as people on land go to +market to buy vegetables and other food, so everything in this line, +that they required, was brought, by boat, to them. Then, besides boats, +there were floating islands, on which people lived, and these consisted +of rafts of bamboos fastened together, with a thick bed of vegetable +soil covering the rafts. Here the owners set up houses, cultivated +rice-fields, and kept tame cattle and hogs. Swallows and pigeons here +built their nests in pretty surrounding gardens. Sails were put up on +the houses, and oars were often used to propel the islands along. Women +worked them frequently, with their babies fastened to their backs; and +little boys and girls would here also play together, having smaller +brothers and sisters thus attached to them. These floating islands, +Sybil and Leonard were told, were to be seen on almost all Chinese +lakes. Many floating houses were moored to one another. + +Sometimes the boat population made such a noise. They seemed a +good-natured set of people, but every now and then they quarrelled, and +this was done very noisily. Then if a storm came on, they would call out +with fear. Those people who lived in river streets, where their houses +were close against the river, often complained of the noise that they +heard during the night. The boat population are often looked down upon +by the Chinese who live on land, and may not go in for the literary +examinations. + +There were very many fishing villages about, and nothing made Leonard +happier than to be taken to one or another of them; he was so fond of +boats of all kinds. Fishing-boats in China had to obtain a license from +Government. Some of these sailed two and two abreast, at a distance, +from one another, of about three hundred feet, when a net was stretched +from ship to ship to enclose the fish. Names cut in the boats had +generally reference to good fortune. The name on one, which Leonard had +interpreted for him, was "Good Success." + +[Illustration: CHINESE BOAT-WOMAN.] + +[Illustration: A FISHING VILLAGE ON THE CANTON RIVER.] + +In fishing as well as in other villages men go about hawking things for +sale, and carrying them, by ship, from one village to another. In the +bows of fishing vessels are large pairs of shears, which can be either +raised or lowered. A large dip-net, fastened to the shears, is drawn up +after remaining some time in the water, when the fish it contains are +emptied into a little hole in the middle of the ship, like a large +cistern, into which fresh water flows. The fishermen anchor their boats, +and then lower their dip-nets into the water by means of these shears, +which are made of bamboo, and attached to wooden platforms, resting on +posts. Huts are sometimes erected near the dip-nets, so that the +fishermen can shelter themselves from the hot sun. A great deal of +fishing with birds called cormorants is also carried on in China, when +one man will, perhaps, take out a hundred birds to fish for him, +fastening something to their throats to prevent them from swallowing the +fish when caught. As they return with them, they are given a little +piece that they can swallow. + +After young fish are caught, they are fed with paste in the tanks, or +wells, into which they are put, and when they grow older little ponds +are made for them. + +Sybil and Leonard were taken very often on the Canton river in all kinds +of boats, both large and small. In the stern of very many was an altar, +concealed generally behind a sliding door, but which, night and morning, +was drawn aside to admit the altar to view, and display the images of +household gods that were upon it. + +Here were also small ancestral tablets, which were regularly worshipped, +and offerings of fruit and flowers were constantly offered to the +guardian god of the boat and the tablets when they were worshipped. +Tien-How, Queen of Heaven, also called Ma-chu, and other names, is much +worshipped by sailors, but each boat has its special guardian god. +Incense is burnt night and morning at the bow of the boat. The Grahams +very often travelled in a small ship called a sampan, which had a mat +roofing over the centre, and was driven forward, very frequently by +women, with two oars and a scull. + +[Illustration: CHINESE FISHING.] + +"I have seen just the sort of thing for you to sketch, mother," Sybil +said one day. Like her mother, she greatly admired what was beautiful, +and now, with her fellow-excursionists, the consul, her father, and +brother, returned home, from a ramble, very tired; "a dear little +pagoda, seven storeys high, very near to the banks of the river, with +mountains at the back and trees near to it, and a little village in the +distance; and on the opposite side of the river we saw two men and a +boy: the boy seemed to have a kite, but we thought it belonged to one of +the men, and he was just carrying it for him." + +Mrs. Graham sometimes did not feel equal to long expeditions, of which +her children never grew tired, so then she would remain at home, or walk +through the pretty gardens and park. + +The Canton, Chu-kiang, or Pearl River, has a great many names and +branches. The great western branch is called Kan-kiang, the northern +branch Pe-kiang, or Pearl River, and the eastern one Tong-kiang. On the +western branch the children found themselves surrounded by lovely +mountain scenery. From Canton to Whampoa it was called the Pearl River; +from Whampoa to Bocca Tigris, or Tiger's Mouth, Foo-mon; and beyond +Shek-moon towards Canton, the Covetous River. The passage to Macao was +the Wild Goose River. It was some time before Sybil and Leonard could +understand anything at all about these divisions. + +One day, on the Pearl River, they came to a very pretty spot, where the +water was almost entirely land-locked by high ranges of hills, and here +they asked to be allowed to remain stationary, for a little while, to +look about them. + +Another day they went very far indeed with their father and mother, +crossing the Fatchan River, where Leonard heard, with interest, that +Commodore Keppel engaged in a memorable battle in 1857. The river +divides the town of Fatchan into two equal parts. Then again they went +so far that they could not even think of returning home the same day, +and stayed the night on the road to a village called Wong-tong, which +was very countrified and pretty. + +[Illustration: PAGODA ON THE BANKS OF THE CANTON RIVER.] + +And once more they went--father, mother, and all--to a place quite +different from anything that they had yet seen, which was the village of +Polo-Hang. Here they found themselves in the midst of vast plains, on +the outskirts of which were to be seen lovely-looking hills of limestone +and rows of wonderfully-shaped mountains. Standing on one of these +mountains, they had a capital view of the Temple of Polo-Hang and its +surroundings, consisting of bare fields traversed by canals; and, at the +foot of the mountains of thickets of bamboo, whose light, feathery +branches swayed gently to and fro. Bamboo was very largely cultivated +here, and Sybil thought it such a fairy-like growth. Must not this scene +have been very lovely? Sybil was so glad that her mother had come to +see it. Then other hills appeared, covered with trees, and dotted here +and there with temples. + +"Where _did_ they all come from?" Leonard asked. + +Mr. Graham was looking very serious. This was a scene calculated to +leave a deep impression upon the beholders. + +[Illustration: ON THE CANTON RIVER] + +"From the hand of God," he said very quietly. + +[Illustration: VILLAGE OF POLO-HANG IN CANTON.] + +A week later, Sybil wrote again to her friend. + + + "_Canton, January, 1881._ + + "MY DEAREST LILY,--We saw such a strange sight + yesterday; and we could not help liking to see it, + although, of course, it was very dreadful. We went + inside a Buddhist temple at Canton. These + temples are often called joss-houses; this one was + the Temple of Five Hundred Gods. Fancy five + hundred gods! and these idols were all there, + arranged in different lines. They all seemed to + look different, and some were dreadfully ugly. I + saw beards on a few of their faces. In the part of + the temple where, in a church, our altar would be, + there was a terrible-looking thing: I suppose a + very special god. + + "We saw one of the priests. He had his beads in + one hand, and a fan in the other. Some of the + priests are men who have committed great crimes, + and have escaped to a monastery and had their + heads shaved, so as not to be caught and punished. + + "Some of the idols were as large as if they were + alive, and they had their arms in all sorts of + different positions. Some held beads, and a few + wore crowns; I think they were disciples of + Buddha. The buildings of the temple, and the + houses of the priests, were surrounded by lakes + and gardens. + + "We have been able to get you a picture of part of + the inside of the temple, so I send it to you; but + Leonard says that he thinks as you'll have the + picture (and he considers it a very good one) that + you ought to know that this temple is said to have + been founded about 520 years A.D., and to have + been rebuilt in 1755. Fancy people wasting prayers + before these images! Isn't it a pity that they + don't know better? There are more than 120 + temples, or joss-houses, in Canton. + +[Illustration: THE TEMPLE OF THE FIVE HUNDRED GODS, CANTON.] + + "The Chinese never eat with knives and forks, but + with chop-sticks. These are generally small square + pieces of bamboo, as large as a penholder, which + they hold between the thumb and first finger of + the right hand. I can't eat with them at all, + nor can mother; and the other day, when she went + out to lunch with some Chinese ladies, they sent + for a knife and fork for her. + + "Chinese ladies in Canton never seem to be with + their husbands in public, and they never walk in + the streets with them. Some of them think us such + barbarous people because we are so different from + what they are. + + "The Chinese have such a funny way of paying + formal visits, that I think I must tell you about + it. They often go in sedan-chairs. Officers of the + highest rank may have eight bearers, people of + less rank have four, and ordinary people two. The + state sedan-chair of an official is covered with + green cloth, and the fringe on the roof and + window-curtains has to be green too. So much seems + to go by rank in China. For the first three ranks, + the tips of poles may be of brass, in the form of + a dragon's head; the fourth and fifth rank would + have a lion's head. On the top of these chairs is + a ball of tin. Leonard and I can tell the chairs + very well now. Private gentlemen have blue cloth, + and the ends of their poles are tipped with plain + brass. + +[Illustration: AN OFFICIAL'S PALANQUIN.] + + "Father says when an official calls upon another + official in Peking, his servant sends in his + visiting card. The official who is being called + upon then sends out to know how his visitor is + dressed, and if he hears that it is in full + costume, he dresses himself in the same way, and + then goes to the entrance of the house, and asks + his visitor to get out of his carriage or chair, + and come in. As they pass through a door of the + gate, the gentleman, to whom the house belongs + asks the visitor to go first, but he always says + 'No' until he has been asked three times, and + then he walks first to the reception-hall, when + the two stop again, and ask one another to go + first. When they have come into the hall, father + says, they kneel down, and knock their heads on + the ground six times. This is performing the + kow-tow. When they get up from this performance, + the host arranges a chair for the other, and asks + him to sit down, but he must not do this even till + he has bowed again. I am sure I should forget when + I had to make all these bows, and should be sure + to do them at the wrong times. + + "After they have had a little talk, a servant is + told to make some tea. I suppose the host would + then say 'Yam-cha' to the other, for this means + 'Drink tea.' Before either gentleman drinks, both + bow again, and soon afterwards the visitor gets + up, and says, 'I want to take my leave.' They walk + together to the grand entrance, but at every + door-way the visitor has to bow, and ask his + friend not to come any farther, although of course + he must go, or it would not be polite. And then he + stands at the entrance door till the carriage has + driven off. The Chinese do bow so often, and + little children have to do it too. + + "The consul told Leonard that when school-boys go + to see their masters, they have to arrange the + chair-cushions for their masters and themselves. + The boy has to stand outside the visitor's hall + till his master comes, and when he has been asked + to go in, he gives him for a present a tael of + silver, about 2s. 8d., which he holds up with both + his hands. Then he looks towards the north, + kneels, and knocks his head twice upon the ground, + when the master bows. The boy asks how his + teacher's parents are, who also asks after the + boy's. He then invites his little guest to sit + down; but every time the boy is asked a question + by his teacher he has to stand up to answer it. + When he leaves, he goes to the entrance door by + himself. At school, the boys have to make a bow to + the schoolmaster whenever they go in and out of + the room. + + "You asked me in your letter if people have very + many servants in China. Some have a very great + number. Ordinary Chinese gentlemen might have a + porter, two or three footmen, coolies for + house-work, sedan-chair bearers, and a cook. Women + servants are often bought by their masters. A rich + man will have sometimes twenty or thirty slaves. + People called 'go-betweens' generally buy them for + the masters. We have very few servants of our own + now, as we are on a visit. Mother's maid shows + dear little Chu what to do. Female slaves attend + upon the ladies and children, and we have often + seen them carrying their mistresses with small + feet. It does look so funny. In good families, + father says, they are very well treated, but some + maid-of-all-work slaves often run away because + they are so unhappy. + + "Children are sometimes stolen to be slaves. + Great-grandsons of slaves can buy their freedom. I + am so glad I have my little Chu, because she + cannot be bought or sold now: father made that + agreement. I should not know nearly so much about + the servants and slaves if I had not wanted to + know what might have become of little Chu if we + had not had her. Sometimes servants stand in the + streets to be hired. + + "In a suburb of Canton, in a street called the + Taiping Kai, we saw one morning a number of + bricklayers, journeymen, and carpenters, waiting + to be hired. The carpenters stand in a line on one + side, and bricklayers on the other. Father said + they had been there since five o'clock. + + "Another day we saw men carrying baskets, in which + they were collecting every bit of paper they could + find about the streets, which had been written + upon. The Chinese have such respect for every + little piece of paper, on which have been any + Chinese characters, that they will not allow any + parcels even to be wrapped up in them. When all + these scraps have been collected, they are burnt + in a furnace, and the ashes are put into baskets, + carried in procession, and emptied into a stream. + Slips of paper are pasted on walls, telling people + to reverence lettered paper. Chinese characters + are called 'eyes of the sage;' and some people + think that if they are irreverent to the paper, + they are so to the sages who invented them, and + they will perhaps, for a punishment, be born blind + in the next world. + + "Men become famous in China when they write very + beautifully. They write with a brush and Indian + ink. Father's teacher says there are three styles + of writing Chinese characters, and that the + literature of China is the first in Asia. A + Chinaman writes from right to left, and all the + writing consists of signs or characters. I cannot + think how Chinese people understand either their + writing or their conversation. One word will mean + a number of things, and you know which word they + mean by the sound of the voice and the stress on + the word. Leonard asked the teacher one day what + soldier was in Chinese, and he said, 'ping;' but + he also told him that 'ping' meant ice, pancake, + and other words too. 'Fu' is father, and 'Mu' + mother. They think we have no written language. + + "Canton is entered by twelve outer, and four + inner, gates. The name means 'City of Perfection.' + Leonard and I are now going for a walk, with + father, to the Street of Apothecaries, and + to-morrow we are to see a bridal procession. + +[Illustration: WAITING TO BE HIRED.] + + "There are such a number of narrow streets in + Canton, and religious worship is carried on in the + open streets, in front of shrines; and before the + shops lighted sticks, called 'joss-sticks,' are + put at dawn and sunset. The natives live in the + narrow streets. Those in the European settlement, + where we are, are larger. + + "The ports, which are open to foreign commerce, + have European parts where the European inhabitants + live. + + "Always your affectionate + "SYBIL GRAHAM." + +[Illustration: A CHINESE WRITER ] + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +A BRIDE AND BRIDEGROOM. + + +[Illustration] + +THE Street of Apothecaries was no exception to the general rule that +Sybil had laid down. It also was very narrow, and, like many other +streets in Canton, was so covered over at the top that in walking +through it the sun did not burn too fiercely, neither did the rain fall +upon the passers-by. + +The shops opened right upon the street, which was very gay indeed with +sign-boards. Just in front of the shops were granite counters, on which +goods were shown to purchasers. + +Many of the sign-boards rested on granite pedestals. On one side of each +shop was a little altar, dedicated to the god of wealth, or the god +supposed to preside over the special trade carried on within. Every +heathen Chinese merchant and shopkeeper has some little spot set apart +for this worship, although all the shops have not an altar, but many +only a piece of red paper pasted upon a wall, on which the characters +meaning "god of wealth" are written, and before which incense and +candles are burnt. Every day, as soon as the shop is opened, worship is +paid to this divinity. + +[Illustration: THE STREET OF APOTHECARIES, CANTON.] + +The counters and shelves inside these hongs were very handsome. The +accountant's desk was at the end of the hong, and here again the red +colour was not absent, for the scales and weights of the shop were +covered with cloth of that hue. + +Beggars (some miserably and scantily dressed) are very numerous in +China, people making quite a profession of begging, when they visit +shops in companies, and there make a great disturbance until they +receive what they demand. These beggars are often governed by a +head-man, who was really first appointed to rule over them by the +mandarin, to save himself trouble. A head-man will sometimes make an +agreement with a hong proprietor, that if he will pay a sum of money +down beggars shall not molest him; and when he agrees to this, a notice +on red paper, stating the arrangement made, is hung up in the shop, +after which any native beggar applying for aid can be shown this, turned +out of the hong, and upon refusing to go, he can be beaten. But unless +such an arrangement has been made, beggars may neither be beaten nor +turned out of a shop, whatever annoyance they may offer, unless they +steal, or break some other law. Therefore it is that poor shop-keepers +feel themselves bound to pay money in order to avoid such annoyance. +When the head-man is paid a sum of money, he is supposed to divide it +amongst his band. + +"I never heard such a shame!" Leonard exclaimed, when he saw one of +these beggars very troublesome in the Street of Apothecaries, and heard +the law with regard to them. "I wish I were a mandarin. I'd very soon +put a stop to poor shop-keepers being so persecuted." + +[Illustration: A BEGGAR.] + +[Illustration: BRIDESMAIDS] + +That evening both Sybil and Leonard, feeling tired, went very early to +bed, as they wanted to be up in very good time in the morning, so as to +see the whole of the bridal procession, for the bridegroom sends very +early indeed in the morning for his bride. The bridal-chair which he +sends for her is often painted red. The one which the Grahams saw was of +this colour, and over the door were also strips of red paper. Before the +bride took her seat in the sedan, which was brought into the +reception-room of her home for her, she having eaten nothing that +morning, and having kow-towed very often to her parents, they covered +her head and face with a thick veil, so that she could not be seen. The +floor, from her room to the sedan, was covered with red carpet. When in +the sedan, four bread-cakes were tossed into the air by one of the +bridesmaids as an omen of good fortune. In front of the procession two +men carried large lighted lanterns, having the family name of the +bridegroom, cut in red paper, and pasted on them. Then came two men +bearing the family name of the bride, who were, however, only to go part +of the way. Other men followed, some carrying a large red umbrella, +others torches, and again some playing a band of music. Near the +bridal-chair brothers or friends of the bride walked. Half-way between +the two houses the friends of the bridegroom met the bride, and as they +approached the procession stopped. + +The children were very much interested in watching what happened next. +The bride's friends brought out a large red card, on which was written +the bride's family name, and the other party produced a similar one, +bearing that of the bridegroom. These were exchanged with bows. The two +men at the head of the procession then walked, with their lanterns, +between the sedan-chair and the lantern-bearers, who carried the bride's +family name, and returned to their places in front, when the bride's +party turned round and went back to her father's house, carrying home +her family name, she being supposed to have now taken that of her +husband. Even her brothers went back also, and then the band played a +very lively air whilst the rest of the procession took her on. + +Fireworks were let off along the road, and a great many outside the +bridegroom's door when the bride arrived. Her bridesmaids, who have to +keep with her throughout the day, accompanied the procession. + +As the sedan-chair was taken into the reception-room, the torch-bearers +and musicians stayed near the door, and where it was put down the floor +was again covered with red carpet. The bridegroom then came and knocked +at the bridal door, but a married woman and a little boy, holding a +mirror, asked the bride to get out. Her bridesmaids helped her to +alight. The mirror was supposed to ward off evil influences. + +[Illustration: BRIDE AND BRIDEGROOM.] + +Sometimes, much for the same purpose, a bride is carried over a charcoal +fire on a servant's back, but this was not done on this occasion. All +this time the bride's face was hidden by her veil. She was then taken +into a room, where the bridegroom was waiting for her, and here they sat +down together for a few minutes, without speaking a word. Sometimes the +bridegroom sits on a high stool, while the bride throws herself down +before him, to show that she considers man superior to woman. + +He then went into the reception-room, where he waited for his bride to +come to worship his ancestral tablets with him. A table was put in front +of the room, on which were two lighted candles and lighted incense. Two +goblets, chop-sticks, white sugar-cocks, and other things were on the +table, when the bride and bridegroom both knelt four times, bowing their +heads towards the earth. This was called "worshipping heaven and earth." +The ancestral tablets were on tables at the back, on which were also +lighted candles and incense. Turning round towards the tablets, they +worshipped them eight times, and then facing one another, they knelt +four times. + +Wedding wine was now drunk, and the bride and bridegroom ate a small +piece from the same sugar-cock, which was to make them agree. + +The thick veil was now taken off the bride, but her face was still +partly hidden by strings of pearl hanging from a bridal coronet. + +It often happens that the bridegroom now sees his bride for the first +time, the two fathers having perhaps planned the marriage, asked a +fortune-teller's advice, sent go-betweens to make all the necessary +arrangements, chosen a lucky day, without the bride or bridegroom having +a voice in the matter. This was the case with the young couple, a great +part of whose wedding ceremony Sybil and Leonard had witnessed. Both +Chinese boys and girls marry sometimes when they are sixteen years of +age; these were very little older. + +Many other ceremonies had to take place, such as kneeling very often +before the bridegroom's parents, when at last it was time for the +bride's heavy outer garments to be taken off, together with her +head-dress, so that her hair could be well arranged; but she was not +allowed to eat anything at all at the wedding dinner. Indeed, on her +wedding-day, she is hardly expected to touch food at all. + +Many people came in to see her, and on this day she must be quite +natural, and wear no rouge at all. She has to stand up quietly to be +looked at, blessed, and have remarks made upon her appearance. Presents +are sent to the bridegroom's family. For three days the bride's parents +send her food, as she may not, during that time, eat what her husband +provides. In some districts of the province of Canton the bride leaves +her husband, and goes home again for a time after she is married, but +after marriage she is generally considered to belong almost entirely to +her husband's family, in a wing of whose house she lives with him, and +to whose parents she is supposed to help him to be filial. On many other +days the ancestral tablets have to be worshipped by the bride and +bridegroom, and amongst other gods and goddesses, those of the kitchen +have adoration paid to them. + +[Illustration: AT A CHINESE FARM.] + + + "_Canton, February, 1881._ + + "MY DEAREST LILY.--Father took us to a lovely farm + the other day" (Sybil wrote in another letter), + "where we saw a little donkey, who was so well + cared for that he seemed like one of the family. + Leonard and I fed him for some time. We both + thought that the farm-house was something like a + Swiss cottage. Father said the walls were made of + clay, and on these walls were scrolls, which were + supposed to have power to keep the fox and wild + cat away. + + "There were a few bullocks and cows here, but not + many; their stalls were quite near to the house. + We liked the village, to which we went, very much, + and it was surrounded by high trees. Father says + that the stables of the Chinese are like + cart-sheds, but each stable has an altar in honour + of the ruler of horses. In this city there is a + large temple to this god. + + "We saw a number of bean, pea, rice, and + cotton-fields, and had some sugar-cane given us to + eat. Sugar-cane is grown in Canton, and we had + some bean-curds to drink. We liked them very much. + Mother says she was told that they were made in + Canton overnight, and generally sold very early in + the morning. The beans are ground to flour, which + is strained, and then boiled slowly for an hour. I + wonder if you would like it? + + "The Chinese are so fond of sugar-cane, and it + grew in China before it grew anywhere else. Ever + so many fruits and vegetables grow also in China, + but there seem to be more rice-fields than any + other. I will tell you a few of the vegetables: + sweet potatoes, yams, tomatoes, cabbages, + lettuces, turnips, and carrots; and some fruits + are apricots, custard-apples, rose-apples, dates, + oranges, pomegranates, melons, pumpkins, and ever + so many others. Canton is in the tropics, but it + is not hot here in the winter. There are such + pretty water-lilies here, not only white, but also + red and red-and-white. The Chinese look upon this + lily as a sacred plant. Some shop-keepers use the + leaves, in which to wrap up things, instead of + paper. + + "Chinese people do very funny things. Because they + think that their birds sometimes like change of + air, they carry their cages out of doors with them + for a walk. But I do so wish that they did not eat + dogs! You see them being sold in the shops, and in + one district of Canton a fair is held, where they + are regularly sold for food. Many people like + black dogs best. At the beginning of summer nearly + everybody eats dog's flesh, when a ceremony takes + place. If people eat it, they think that it will + keep them from being ill in the summer. I am glad, + for that reason, that I shall not be here in June, + as the dogs are cruelly beaten the day before they + are killed. Fancy, poor little things! I suppose + that is to bring luck too! And yet the Cantonese + think that they displease the gods when they eat + dog's flesh, and we have seen it written on + Buddhist temples that people ought not to eat + 'their faithful guardians.' + + "The Cantonese must not go into a temple to + worship till they have been three whole days + without eating any dog. One of the 'boys' here--he + is a footman; but in China all these sort of + people are called 'boys'--eats rats. He says he is + getting bald, and if he eats them his hair will + grow again. Horses are sometimes eaten too; and + worms that spoil the rice-fields, father told me, + are sent to the markets and sold to be eaten. + Isn't that nasty? And a kind of swallow's nest is + eaten even by ladies. It is lined with feathers, + which are first removed; then it is scraped, + washed, and pulled to pieces, when it looks white. + People say it is something like blancmange. I + should not like to eat it. Does it not seem + greedy, when people have so much to eat, to take + poor little birds'-nests which have been made with + such pains by their owners? + + "There is a bird in China that has such a long + tail: it is called the Golden Pheasant. The + feathers of the cock bird are most beautiful. His + throat and breast are like purple velvet, and his + back looks like gold. The upper part of his very + long tail is scarlet, and the rest yellow. When + this pheasant lifts his head and neck-feathers he + shows such a tuft! + + "There are a good many deer in China, which are + also supposed to bring good fortune. Some Chinese + are very cruel to animals. We have seen them + carrying pigs, ducks, and geese fastened to a + pole, hanging with their heads downwards; and some + of their dogs look so hungry, and their beasts of + burden so tired. We saw a dreadful thing one day, + almost too dreadful to write about--a poor little + dog running yelping through the streets with its + tail cut off! A Taouist priest had cut it off, so + that it should run screaming through all the house + in which evil spirits were supposed to be, because + this would drive them out; then the poor little + dog rushed into the streets, where we saw it, and, + fortunately, father was near enough to have it + killed at once. + + "The people listen more to father than they do to + many missionaries, because he goes to the + dispensary and helps to cure them when they are + ill. + + "I forgot to tell you that when we first went to + the farm nobody saw us, because the farmer, his + wife, daughter, and a labourer were all listening + to a man reading to them. We thought he must have + got hold of some of the Chinese classics. The + pigeon-English people talk sometimes is so funny. + They are so fond of the word 'piecee.' Instead of + 'one child,' they say 'one piecee chilo;' and if + they had many children, I expect they would say + 'piecee muchee.' + + "Leonard makes very good shots at pigeon-English, + and can talk it much better than I can. What we + generally do is to put 'ee' at the end of our + words; but when we spoke to the farmer he could + not understand, and so said, 'You talkee me. Very + good talkee.' When he wanted to tell us that his + house was very large, he said, 'Number one largee, + handsome howsow;' and for 'There is a child + up-stairs,' he said, 'Have got chilo topside.' + + "You asked me how the Chinese dressed, so I must + try to tell you this, although I have written you + such a long letter already. + +[Illustration: CHINESE LADIES.] + +[Illustration: A VILLAGER.] + +[Illustration: A COOLIE.] + + "Gentlemen and ladies seem to dress very much + alike; and people cannot change their clothes as + they choose, because there is a minister of + ceremonies, who says of what colour, stuff, and + shape things are to be made, and when winter and + summer things are to be changed. Even a head-dress + may not be altered as people like, or they might + be breaking a law. And it is so funny about the + nails; some people let some of their nails grow as + long as they can, and are so proud when they are + very long. No Chinaman wears a beard till he is + forty. The outside robe of a gentleman is so long + that it reaches to his ankles, and it is fastened + with buttons. The sleeves are first broad, and + then get narrower and narrower. A sash is tied + round his waist, and from this chop-sticks, a + tobacco-case, fans, and such-like things hang. The + head-dress is a cap with a peak at the top. Men do + not take off their hats to bow; indeed, they would + put them on if they were off. In-doors they wear + silk slippers, pointed and turned up at the toes. + Chinese men are admired when they are stout, and + women when they are thin. Women also have two + robes, the top one often being made of satin, and + reaching from the chin to the ground. Their + sleeves are so long that they do instead of + gloves. They always wear trousers, and often carry + a pipe, for women smoke a great deal in China. + Some, I think, are pretty. They have rather large + eyes and red lips. Old ladies wear very quiet + clothes. Mother says the Chinese are not at all + clean people, and ought to change their clothes + much oftener than they do. People wear shoes of + silk, or cotton, with thick felt soles. The women + spend hours having their hair done into all sorts + of shapes, such as baskets, bird-cages, or + anything they and their amahs can manufacture. + Then besides ornaments in their hair, they wear + ear-rings and bangles. Even boat-women wear these; + and the ladies almost always paint their faces, + to do which they have a kind of enamel. Chinese + ladies have little useful occupation, and spend a + great part of their time, mother says, when they + are not doing embroidery, in gambling and adorning + themselves. + + "The peasants wear a coarse linen shirt, covered + by a cotton tunic, with thin trousers fastened to + the ankles. In wet and cold weather they make a + useful covering of net-work, into which are + plaited rushes, or coarse dry grass, and they put + on very large hats, made in the same way. The + Chinese are not at all lazy people, for father + says after their shutters are shut, and all looks + dark from the outside, they are often at work, and + they get up early too. When men grow old their + tails get so thin. I saw such a wrinkled old man + the other day, with hardly any tail at all. I + think he must have been very sorry about that; he + was an old villager. + + "Coolies wear their tails twisted round their + heads. They do all the heavy work, and are + porters, common house labourers, and sedan-chair + bearers. + + "Leonard says if I write any more stuff he is sure + you will not read it; but I hope you will think it + interesting stuff, at all events, and, therefore, + not mind my letter being so long. There seems to + be so much to tell you when you have not been to + China, and it seems selfish to keep all the + pleasure of seeing such new things to myself. I + meant to tell you about the New Year, which we + have just kept, but I have not room. I hope you + will write to me very soon. We all send love to + you, and + + "Believe me, + "Your very affectionate friend, + "SYBIL GRAHAM." + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +PROCESSIONS. + + +[Illustration] + +A FORTNIGHT later Mr. Graham saw a large, Leonard a small, portion of a +funeral procession, and Sybil was very anxious afterwards to hear all +about it, for Leonard had told her that it seemed even grander than the +marriage one. + +"Please, father," she said, "tell me all that the Chinese do when +anybody dies." + +"I do not think I could tell you all," was her father's reply, "because +it would take too long, and I do not know all myself; but I dare say I +can tell you quite enough to satisfy your curiosity. When a Chinese +thinks that a relation is likely to die soon, he places him, with his +feet towards the door, on a bed of boards, arranging his best robes and +a hat, or cap, quite close to him, that he may be dressed in these just +before he dies. It would be considered a dreadful thing if he were to +die without putting them on. Soon after he is dead, a priest--usually a +priest of Taou--is called in to ask the spirit to make haste to Elysium, +and to cast the man's horoscope, so as to see how far the spirit has got +on its journey." + +"What does casting his horoscope mean?" + +"Finding out the hour of a man's birth, and then foretelling events by +the appearance of the heavens. More clothes are then put upon the dead +man, who, if he be a person of rank, would wear three silk robes. Gongs +are beaten, and when the body is placed in its coffin, every corner of +the room is beaten with a hammer, to frighten away bad spirits. A crown +is also put on any person of rank. Widows and children, to show their +grief, sit on the floor instead of on chairs for seven days, and sleep +on mats near to the husband and father's coffin. On the seventh day +letters are written to friends, informing them of the death, when they +send presents of money to help to defray the funeral expenses. I saw a +very strange letter of thanks yesterday, a copy of which had been sent +to each giver of a present, and besides money, food is sometimes given +or priests are sent. The letter, as far as I can remember, ran thus: +'This is to express the thanks of the orphaned son, who weeps tears of +blood, and bows his head; of the mourning brother, who weeps and bows +his head; of the mourning nephew, who wipes away his tears and bows his +head.' Then a letter is also written to the departed, and burnt, that it +may reach him, whilst cakes and other presents are also sent to him by +means of burning. + +[Illustration: MEN ENGAGED TO WALK IN FUNERAL PROCESSIONS.] + +"On the twenty-first day after death a banquet is prepared in honour +of the spirit, which is supposed, on that day, to come back to his home, +when the entrance doors are shut, for fear any one should come in and +vex the spirit. On the twenty-third day three large paper birds are put +on high poles in front of the house, to carry the soul to Elysium; and +for three days Buddhist priests pray to the ten kings of Buddhist hell +to hasten the flight of the departed soul to the Western Paradise. + +"The coffin is kept in the house for seven weeks, where an altar is set +up, near to which the tablet and portrait of the deceased are put. +Banners, which are looked upon as letters of condolence, are fixed upon +the walls, and on these the merits of the dead man are inscribed. + +"Pictures of the three Buddhas are also to be seen in the house. A lucky +place and day have then to be fixed, by fortune-tellers, for the burial, +and should these not be forthcoming, the coffin would be placed on a +hill till they can be found. Burial is considered of so much importance, +that should a man be drowned his spirit would be called back into a +figure of wood or paper, and buried with pomp. Before the grave-diggers +begin their work, members of the family worship the genii of the +mountain, and write letters to these gods, asking them to be so kind as +to allow the funeral to take place." + +"But how are these letters made to 'arrive?'" + +"They are set on fire and burnt." + +"Leonard says he saw a number of people dressed in white in the +procession." + +"Those were the relatives in deep mourning, white, you remember, being +the deepest, white and blue lesser, mourning." + +[Illustration: CHE-YIN.] + +"And he says he is sure he saw his friend Che-Yin among the mourners. +You know, father, Che-Yin is really a great friend of Leonard's, though +he is so much older than himself, and now he is taking great trouble to +teach him to play on the musical instrument which he plays so well +himself. I believe if Leonard were going to stay longer here he would +really learn to play it quite well. Is it not kind of Che-Yin? But I +must not interrupt you any more," Sybil went on, "and this is so +interesting. Leonard said he wondered so much what could be happening +once when he heard a tremendous noise, and saw people rushing out into +the streets screaming." + +"I think I know what that meant," was the missionary's answer. "On the +day of burial the relatives weep and lament very loudly. They carry a +long white streamer, called a soul-cloth, to the ancestral hall, for the +spirit to say 'Good-bye' to its ancestors. At three or four o'clock in +the morning all decorations, that have been put up in front of the door, +are taken down, and a banquet is made ready, of which the spirit is +invited to partake. You remember I told you that they believe one spirit +is buried with the body. Well, some kind of paper is now again burnt, +while the spirit is asked to accompany the body, and the tablet and +portrait of the dead man are put in a sedan-chair by his eldest son, +over the top of which is a streamer of red satin, on which his name and +titles are written. + +"Distant relations remain standing out in the streets; but I expect what +Leonard saw was people rushing out of the house, dreadfully frightened, +for fear that after all the day might not be lucky, and the spirit +should be vexed, and send trouble to them, in consequence. + +"As the coffin is brought out offerings are also again presented to the +spirit. Two men walk first, carrying large lanterns, on which are +written the name, title, and age of the man who has died. Then come two +other men with a gong, which they beat from time to time." + +"Leonard heard that." + +"Then follow musicians, and behind these some men walk with flags, +others with red boards, on which are inscribed, in golden letters, the +titles of the ancestors of the deceased." + +"Then Leonard saw some gold canopies and sedan-chairs." + +"Offerings made to the dead are carried under gilded canopies, and these +canopies also follow the ancestral tablets. The portrait of the dead man +is in one sedan-chair, and his wooden tablet in another. + +"I believe somewhere about here are more musicians, then comes a man +scattering pieces of paper fastened to tinfoil. This is supposed to be +mock-money for hungry ghosts, the souls of those people who have died at +corners of the streets, and this money is to make peace with them, so +that they shall not injure the soul of the man now being buried. The +eldest son carries a staff, whilst a person walks on either side to +support him." + +"But Leonard said he saw a white cock, when he could not help laughing. +What could this be for?" + +"The cock is also carried to call the soul to go with the body. Behind +the eldest son comes the bier, carried by men or drawn by horses. + +"Many other persons follow. All the people that can, go in the +procession. Women with small feet, unless carried on their slaves' +backs, can only go a short way. At the grave, grains of rice are +scattered over the coffin, when the priest and all the people lift the +cock and bend their bodies forward three times. The tablet is taken out +of the chair, on which the nearest relation makes a mark with a red +pencil; then the sons kneel down, and a priest, if present, addresses +them." + +"Then a priest is not obliged to go to the funeral?" + +"No; sometimes only a man skilled in geomancy is present. Geomancy is a +kind of foretelling things, by means of little dots first made on the +ground and then on paper. The tablet is marked, I believe, to bring good +luck to the sons, and then every one knocks his head on the ground and +does homage to it." + +Sybil was looking very serious, though she was smiling too. + +"Oh, father!" she said, "how much you, and other missionaries, will have +to teach these people! What a pity it is that they cannot know that the +soul is never buried, and that they can't learn to worship and pray to +God, Who would send them such real happiness in answer to their +prayers!" + +"It is indeed, my child," was the missionary's answer. + +"And is anything more done for the dead after this except worship being +paid to them?" + +"Yes; for many days feasts are prepared for the departed relative, hot +water is carried to him to wash his face and hands, and I have also +heard of another way that the Chinese have of 'conveying' spirits to the +kingdoms of Buddhistic hell. Little sedan-chairs are made of bamboo +splints and paper, with four little paper bearers, and sometimes there +is a fifth little paper man, holding an umbrella. These are burnt like +the paper mock-money; and sometimes, after the death of another friend, +a little paper trunk, full of paper clothes, is supplied for one already +dead, and burnt, when the senders believe that the person who died last +is conveying this trunk to the other in safety for them." + +"They think that people need a great many things in the other world, +then," Sybil said. "And do children often worship at their parents' +tombs?" + +"Yes; at certain seasons of the year they make pilgrimages to the tops +of high hills, or to other distant parts, where they prostrate +themselves, this being supposed to continue the homage and reverence +which they showed to them on earth; and they believe that in a great +measure the happiness of the spirits depends upon the adoration and +worship which they pay to them, whilst those who render it secure for +themselves favour from the gods. Twice a day do children also pay +adoration to their dead parents, before a shrine set up in the house to +the memory of departed ancestors." + +"But what is the use of preparing feasts for the dead?" Sybil asked. +"They cannot think that the dead really eat the food?" + +"They seem to do so, and not only lay a place for them, but even put +chop-sticks for their use." + +Another procession Sybil and Leonard saw one day, and this Sybil +described in the last letter that she wrote to her friend, before she +left China. Some men carried an image of the Dragon King, others carried +gongs, drums, and green and black and yellow and white flags, whilst +boys, walking in the procession, called out loudly from time to time. + +The children could not possibly imagine what this procession could be +all about. + +Some characters were written on the flags. + +One man who, as Leonard thought, had a very happy, smiling face, had a +pole slung across his shoulders, from which hung two buckets of water. +In his hand he held a green branch of a shrub which, from time to time, +he dipped in the water, and then sprinkled the ground; while he also +continually called out something. Other men were carrying sticks of +lighted incense. Most of the people, in the procession, wore white +clothes, and white caps without tassels. + +[Illustration: SPRINKLING WATER.] + +Sybil and Leonard were afterwards told that this was praying for rain, +because for some time there had been none. + +The Dragon King was carried, because he is supposed to be the god of +rain. Besides the Dragon King there is a River Dragon, who is both +feared and worshipped. His mother, Loong-Moo, is often worshipped by +people engaged in river traffic. + +The men and boys were calling out "Rain comes!" The yellow and white +banners were to represent wind and water, and the green and black, +clouds. + +The inscription on the flags was, when translated, "Prayer is offered +for rain." + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +THE LAST PEEP. + + +[Illustration] + +SYBIL had made several friends amongst Cantonese ladies and children, +and some very pleasant afternoons had she spent with them. The girls, +she noticed, generally wore cotton tunics and trousers. One little girl, +with whom she had spent a few hours, was in mourning, so she wore white, +bound with blue. Sybil could not help thinking that this was very pretty +mourning, but her brother's was still prettier, for his trousers were of +pale blue silk tied round the ankles, and he wore white shoes. His cue +was tied with blue. And there were such very pretty gardens belonging to +the houses in which they lived, with rockeries, fish-ponds, and +summer-houses almost large enough to live in. + +One lady, whom Sybil visited, astonished her very much, because she had +an only boy, who was very pale-looking and delicate, and she called him +all sorts of names, and seemed to treat him so unkindly. When Sybil had +been ill herself, her mother had always treated her with such extra love +and care, and she fancied that all mothers behaved like this. Then the +Chinese love their boys so much, that one would therefore have thought +an only boy would be so very precious. The next time that she saw the +lady she had given away her child to be adopted by some one else. Mrs. +Graham heard the explanation to this unnatural conduct, and gave it to +Sybil. The woman really loved her boy most fondly, and would have given +anything she had to have him well, but she fancied that the gods were +malicious towards him, and that if she pretended to them that she did +not care for the child they would let him get well again. All that +conduct was to deceive the gods. + +Mr. Graham had several times dined out at Chinese houses, and sometimes +his wife had accompanied him, but as Cantonese ladies never dine with +their husbands in public, where her doing so was likely to give any +offence, even though she were invited, she never went; but many Chinese +very well understand that there are quite different laws for Europeans +than there are for them, and these seemed to be glad to admit English +ladies, with their husbands, to be guests at their houses. + +When Mr. and Mrs. Graham went to one of these dinners, knives and forks +were borrowed for them, and the other English visitors, in place of +chop-sticks. A china spoon and a two-pronged fork were set before each +person, and there were china wine-glasses. The table-napkins were of +brown paper. Basins of fruit, from which all helped themselves as they +liked, were in the middle of the table. There were a great many soups +and other courses. Every now and then the host took something out of a +basin with his chop-stick, and offered to put it into the mouths of his +guests. Out of politeness they were bound to accept these gifts. There +was not any beef, as no Chinaman eats beef. Music was played, and slaves +fanned the people during dinner. + +Once when Sybil visited some of her young Chinese friends, the tea was +brought in to them in covered cups, and when they wanted more, +tea-leaves were put into the cups and boiling water was poured upon +them. She had learnt now to be able to drink tea without milk or sugar, +but she could not like it. + +A two months' stay at Canton brought the children to the end of four +months and a half of their stay in China, and left but six weeks more +before they were to return to England. It was the middle of March when +the Grahams said "Good-bye" to their kind friends at the Yamen, and +returned to Hong-Kong. Sybil could not bear to say this farewell, as it +was the last but one, and she knew how very quickly six weeks would +pass. + +They had all enjoyed their stay in Canton very much, and often thought +about the New Year's Day which had been kept, while they were there, +with such grand rejoicings. At midnight, on the last day of the old +year, a bell, never used except on this occasion, pealed forth, when, at +the signal, people rushed into the streets in crowds to let off +fireworks. + +Every temple and every pagoda was lighted up, and people burnt incense +before idols in their own homes. Some streets are lighted in Canton by +lanterns, but, as a rule, the smaller streets are in darkness, with the +exception of paper lanterns, which hang, every now and then, from before +shops or private houses, and even these are put out by half-past nine +o'clock. Paraffin lamps are now being introduced along Chinese city +streets. + +All New Year's night a great noise was to be heard, and in the morning +friends dressed in their best to call upon, and salute, one another. + +In the streets they were to be seen prostrating themselves upon the +ground. Rich and poor alike had great rejoicings on New Year's Day, the +rich often keeping up their holiday for ten days. + +Latterly Mr. Graham had been several times backwards and forwards to +Hong-Kong, where he had made his final arrangements. + +The missionary, whose place he was about to fill, would, when he left +the island, take with him to England, besides his own family, Sybil and +Leonard Graham. Until they sailed, the Grahams would all stay with them +at the Mission House, when it would be handed over to Mr. Graham. + +The other missionary had three children of his own, two daughters, +twelve and ten years old, and a son of nine, but as they had been absent +from Hong-Kong when the Grahams had been there before, the children had +not yet made one another's acquaintance. + +The eldest, Katie, now became Sybil's very useful interpreter, for as +she had been born in China and lived there all her life, she could +understand, and speak, many Chinese dialects. + +Sybil now knew several Chinese words herself. "Che-fan," or "Have you +eaten your rice?" was "How do you do?" though, as a rule, when people +said "How do you do?" to her it was "Chin-chin mississi?" + +When she went out visiting, questions such as the following were +generally put to her, "What honourable name have you?" "What is the name +of your beautiful dwelling?" and "What age have you?" Had she been grown +up, this question would probably have been, "What is your venerable +age?" + +Leonard was often told to "catchee plenty chow-chow," which means "eat a +very good dinner," but as somehow he generally seemed able to do this, +he hardly needed the kind advice. + +Mrs. Graham's amah amused Sybil very much. She had been a great +traveller, having visited both England and America, and she liked +England much the best. One day she said to Sybil: "Melicae no good +countly. Welly bad chow-chow. Appool number one. My hab chow-chow sixty +pieces before bleakfast. Any man no got dollar, all hab got paper. +Number one foolo pidgin. No good countly. My no likee Melicae. My likee +England side more better." This meant: "America is not a good country. +It has very bad food, but first-rate apples. I ate sixty before +breakfast. No one has any dollars there, all use paper money. Very +foolish business. Not a good country. I do not like America. I like +England better." + +Some pleasure or another was always forthcoming for Sybil and Leonard, +and the few last "Peep-shows" were very precious. + +[Illustration: "SING-SONG."] + +One day, when they were out, they saw a "Sing-Song," as the performance +was called. Under a canopy, in the open streets, children were acting +and dancing. To do so, they had dressed up in very gorgeous costumes, +their ornaments and head-dresses being grander, Leonard said, than +anything he had ever seen before; and the little Chinese actors +themselves seemed to be thoroughly at their ease, and quite at home, in +their grand attire. + +"Why did that policeman come after you to-day, father, and take down the +name of the boat that we got into?" Leonard once asked, when he and his +father had been out together, and were returning home. + +"Policemen have done that several times, if you had only noticed," was +the reply. "That was to guard us from pirates. They took the name of our +boat, so that the owner could be held responsible if we did not return +safely. The Chinese are dreadful pirates, and are generally on the +look-out for opportunities to rob. Sometimes a band of them will take +their passages in a ship, and when fairly out at sea will all rise in +mutiny against the captain and his officers, and perhaps murder them, so +as to be able to plunder as they choose." + +"I should think the boat-policemen had plenty of work to do," Leonard +then said. + +"Father, do you remember well when you were just eleven?" the child then +asked suddenly, going, as it seemed, right away from his present +subject. "Did you ever want to be a sailor then? ever think for certain +you would be one?" + +"I do not remember ever having had that wish." + +"Well, I have had it over and over again, and thought that there could +not be anything better in the world than going about in ships, and +seeing different places. I've wished to be a sailor for ever so many +years; but, you know, I don't wish it now." + +[Illustration: FISHERMEN AND FISHERWOMEN.] + +Mr. Graham smiled. I expect it was Leonard's "ever so many years" which +made him do so. + +"Don't you?" his father asked. "Then what do you want to be now?" + +"Something, father, I'm not half good enough for," the boy answered, +thoughtfully. "A missionary! Oh, father, I do so want to be a missionary +now, and come to China, as you and grandfather have done! Shouldn't you +like it too? I know mother would; and perhaps the Church Missionary +Society would send me out if I asked them." + +"I should like nothing better, my little son," was the missionary's +reply. + +A few minutes later Leonard was out of doors again, flying himself one +of the "wonderful kites," which a Chinaman had made for, and given to, +him, and his father was watching his little fellow with pleasure almost +amounting to pride. + +Was this his impulsive boy's own thought, he wondered, or had his sister +suggested it to him. + +Quite his own; but no doubt the quiet, gentle influence which Sybil +exerted over her younger brother was very good for him. + +"Do you think, Sybil, that the heathen Chinese could teach the Christian +English anything?" Mr. Graham asked his daughter, as they sat and talked +together the very last evening. + +"I am sure they could," she answered quickly; "many things. Filial love +and obedience for one, respect and reverence for old age for another; +and then, though they do believe such silly, superstitious things, there +seems to be such a reality, so much earnestness, about the way some of +them carry out their religion. They do not mind how early they get up +and go out to keep a religious festival, and they seem to ask a sort of +blessing, from their gods, on everything they do, and keep their fasts +and feasts so very regularly; but I think their love for their parents +beats everything. 'Boy' asked for a holiday yesterday, because it was +his mother's birthday, and got up very early to do his work before he +went." "Boy" was a kind of footman. + +"Yes; parents' birthdays are kept up much more than are those of +children. Sometimes on their birthdays they will sit under a crimson +canopy, whilst their children kneel and perform the 'kow-tow' to them. +The fifty-first birthday, and every ten years afterwards, is celebrated +with great pomp, when religious ceremonies are often performed at the +Temple of Longevity. I believe thirty Buddhist priests will then +sometimes return thanks for three days. + +"When a man is eighty-one, the fact is occasionally communicated to the +Emperor, who may then allow money to be given for a monumental arch to +be erected to the old man's honour. + +"After parents are dead their birthdays are still celebrated in the +ancestral hall, where their portraits hang." + +"I suppose children give their parents beautiful presents on their +birthdays?" + +"When they begin to get old the best present that a child can, and does, +make a parent, and one which he values more than anything else, is a +coffin, because, you know, a Chinaman thinks that unless his body be +buried properly his spirit cannot rest. + +"The Chinese are strange contradictions," Mr. Graham went on. "Although +they are very courageous in bearing torture, they are dreadful liars, +and a great liar is generally a great coward. Then they are sober and +industrious, but slaves to the opium drug; meek and gentle, but, at the +same time, treacherous and cruel; most dutiful to their parents, but +often very jealous of their neighbours; and then, perhaps strangest of +all, is their love towards their children, but yet their readiness to +put their girls to death." + +Sybil was silent for several minutes. "Oh, father!" she then said, +"isn't the time dreadfully near now? Fancy leaving you and dear mother! +How can we?" + +"You must go to _your_ work, darling, and we must stay here to do ours. +Is it not so?" Mr. Graham asked, in the dear, kind, soft voice that +Sybil loved so much, and which she always called his "preachy voice." +"But what shall give us comfort? what shall we think about when we are +trying to do our several duties, though apart, I hope contentedly and +well? That it is God who has called us to our several duties; it is His +Almighty will which we have now and always to obey; but remember, not +alone, not unaided, dear Sybil. Who will be our guide, stay, and +comfort, when we are separated from one another?" + +Sybil knew, but could not answer, because she was crying. + +[Illustration: WOMAN OF POAH-BI.] + +"Your mother and I," Mr. Graham went on, "in commending our children to +the Fatherly love and care of Him Who gave you to us, know that we place +you in the safest keeping; and you yourselves have also both learnt, +have you not, how to go to our Father and 'Supreme Ruler' in earnest +prayer, whenever tempted to do what would displease Him? A missionary, +you know, is one who is sent on a mission--to fulfil a duty. A +missionary's children must not shrink from fulfilling, must not fail to +fulfil, the mission on which they are sent, must they?" + +Sybil looked comforted. She liked this last "Peep-show" very much, and +kissed her father to show him that she did. + +A few minutes later she said, "Do you know, father, I believe little Chu +is really beginning to believe and understand properly, for the other +day, when I was saying my prayers, she came and knelt down beside me, +and she would never kneel to our God before, even when she saw the +Christian woman at Poah-bi do so, with whom we stayed, and with whom she +was such good friends. I shall often remember that woman and her dear +little baby, which she tied to herself so funnily, because I liked them +so very much. + +"Poor little Chu!" Sybil then went on. "I shall be so glad to see her +again when I come back to you, but I do not think she will like me to go +away." + +"Chu will have to be a great deal at school now. She has her work to do +too, you know." + +"How I shall think of you, father, and the Hong-Kong Mission on +Intercession Day, when it comes round, shan't I?" + +"Yes, Sybil; and not only on Intercession Day, but always in your +prayers, you must remember to pray very fervently, both for Chinese and +other unbelievers, and not only for me, but for all who are seeking +their conversion." + +"It seems a more real thing now to pray for," Sybil said. + +"And to give thanks for too. Here in Hong-Kong we have great cause to be +thankful." + +"What a dear old lady that was who was baptized on Sunday! but what was +the Christian name she chose? I could not hear it." + +"Mong-Oi, which means 'desiring the love' (of Jesus)." + +"That was a beautiful name, wasn't it? And there were a number of +communicants for here too. How many native communicants are there in +Hong-Kong?" + +"Between sixty and seventy; and what is so comforting is that the +communicants seem to be really devout, and to realise what being a +communicant means for, and requires of, them, and it is no easy matter +at all for natives of China to embrace Christianity. Sometimes they have +to leave all their relations, and suffer much persecution in +consequence." + +"When was the Hong-Kong mission begun?" Sybil asked. + +"In 1862." + +Although the results were far from what the zealous missionaries would +fain have seen them, Mr. Graham was right in saying that the Mission +from the Church of England to Hong-Kong had cause to take hope and be +thankful. + +Several men and women were now under instruction both for baptism and +confirmation. The mission schools for boys numbered more than 190, and +for girls more than thirty, and here the children were religiously as +well as secularly instructed. + +There were, although only two European missionaries and one native +clergyman, twenty-three native Christian teachers, and 183 native +Christians. The Mission comprised, besides St. Stephen's Church and the +agencies around it in the island of Hong-Kong, many out-stations in the +province of Quangtung occupied by native agents. + +The Prayer Book, and, still better, the Holy Bible, translated into +their own tongue, were now circulated among the people, some of whom +were really learning to love and value them; and not only were the +services for the Christians well attended, but every evening the heathen +were to be seen in numbers going to hear sermons that were to be +preached for them. + +Well, then, might Mr. Graham go forth to his new work with hope. + +"How much you will have to do, father," Sybil said, "if you go to the +Medical Missionary Institution so often, and do all your other work +besides! But the people seem to be very grateful to you. 'Boy' said +yesterday that you were 'a hundred man good,' and I know what that +means: 'The best of men.'" + +Mr. Graham smiled. + +"I like, and it is good for us all," he said, "to have plenty to do; and +one work, you know, may help on the other." + +"I expect mother will help you a very great deal too." + +"She is sure to do that." Sybil knew she was. + +All day long the child had spent beside her much-loved mother; now, for +another hour, she sat on and talked with her father, receiving good, +kind counsel, when Leonard, who had been closeted with his mother, +listening to her dear words of best advice, came in, with eyes swollen +from crying, and then the four sat together till it was long past +bed-time; but what of that? To-morrow, on board ship, there would be +nothing to keep them up late, when they could make up for to-night, and +go early to bed. + +To-morrow came, as happy and sad to-morrows all alike will come; when +the mother gave her children their last kisses, the father their last +kisses and benedictions, and Sybil and Leonard Graham started on their +homeward voyage to England, leaving their parents very grateful for +having such good, kind friends to whose care on board ship to entrust +them. + +Both children were to return at once to their former schools, and spend +their holidays together at Mrs. Graham's brother's house, who was also +the rector of a country parish, and where she knew they would very soon +feel quite at home. + +Sybil and Leonard Graham, the children of brave parents, were brave +children themselves, and as they had promised not to grieve more then +they could help, they at once did battle with their tears, and before +long were talking really cheerfully with their friends. + +"Who knows," Sybil said once to Leonard, when she and her brother found +themselves alone, "but what they might come over for a small +holiday-trip in two or three years' time? and if not, I believe when I +go out you are to go with me for another 'Peep-show' holiday, and to see +_them_!" + +"Of course I ought to go whenever I can," Leonard answered, "as I'm +going to be a missionary out there myself." + +Sybil had said "them" because she could not yet say, without crying, +those two dear, sacred words, father and mother, which stand alone in +the vocabulary of every language, and have no peers. + +Mrs. Graham herself was then alone, shedding bitter tears, which she +had stifled until her children left her, but which she could keep back +no longer. + +Yet, though her mother's loving heart was very sad and sore, she would +not weep long, but would, to the very best of her ability, go forth at +once to help her husband--who could not but feel sad now too--in the +good work in which she had encouraged him to embark, counting _all_ the +costs beforehand. + +And Sybil, who had said "_I like my father to be a missionary very +much_," would not unsay the words now, though it took both her parents +so far away from her and Leonard. Oh no! since she had seen the great +need that there was for missionaries to China, she liked, even better +than before, her father "to be a missionary!" + +[Illustration] + + * * * * * + +Transcriber's Notes: + +Bold text is surrounded by =equal signs= and italic text by +_underscores_. + +Text uses uses varied hyphenation on the naming of the cities. This +includes both Fu-kien and Fukien, Poahbi and Poa-bi, and Pei-ho and +Peiho, among others. + +Obvious punctuation errors repaired. + +Page 31, Illustration caption: MENE changed to MENE (HATA-MENE-TA-KIE) + +Page 74, "r st" changed to "rest" (rest of their lives) + +Page 178, "Europeon" changed to "European" (the European settlement) + +Page 196, "al" changed to "all" (soon. We all) + +Page 212, twice the word "Melicae" was spelled with a macron over the +"a". This was replaced with a "ae" for this text version. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Peeps Into China, by E. C. 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