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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Copeland Method, by Vanness Copeland
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Copeland Method
+       A Complete Manual for Cleaning, Repairing, Altering and
+       Pressing All Kinds of Garments for Men and Women, at Home
+       or for Busines
+
+Author: Vanness Copeland
+
+Release Date: November 3, 2010 [EBook #34186]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE COPELAND METHOD ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Julia Neufeld and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The Copeland METHOD
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+INDEX.
+
+
+                                                    PAGE
+
+    Equipment                                          3
+
+    Tools Required and their Use                       3
+
+    Formula for Cleaning Fluid                         6
+
+    Formula, how to make                               7
+
+    Formula for Moth Preventative                      7
+
+    How to Use Cleaning Fluids                         7
+
+    How to Prepare Garments to be Cleaned              7
+
+    How to Clean Garments                              8
+
+    To Remove Stains, etc.                            13
+
+    Repairing                                         14
+
+    Darning a Three-Cornered Tear                     20
+
+    Alterations                                       21
+
+    Pressing                                          28
+
+    How to Clean Cutaway, Prince Albert, Military
+       and other Uniforms                             33
+
+    How to Clean and Press Ladies' Jackets, etc.      33
+
+    Selection of Materials, etc.                      37
+
+    Care of Clothes                                   38
+
+    Folding of Clothes                                42
+
+    Testing Goods                                     43
+
+    Price List for Cleaning and Pressing              44
+
+    How to Dress and What to Wear                     45
+
+    Business Etiquette                                55
+
+
+
+
+    The
+    Copeland METHOD
+
+
+    A Complete Manual for
+    Cleaning, Repairing, Altering
+    and Pressing all kinds
+    of Garments for Men and
+    Women, at home or for
+    business.
+
+
+    Copyrighted 1908.
+
+    BY
+
+    VANNESS COPELAND,
+
+    BUFFALO, N. Y.
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTORY.
+
+
+High birth and good breeding are the privileges of the few; but the
+habits of a gentleman may be acquired by any man. Neatness is not an art
+requiring the study of a life time; on the contrary it's principles are
+simple, and their practical application involves only ordinary care.
+
+To gain the good opinion of those who surround us is the first interest
+and the second duty of men in every profession of life. First
+impressions are apt to be permanent; it is therefore of importance that
+they should be favorable. Frequently the dress of an individual is that
+circumstance from which you first form your opinion. It is even more
+prominent than manner. It is indeed one of the first things noticed in a
+casual encounter or during the first interview. Chesterfield has said
+that "He could not help conceiving some idea of the people's sense and
+character from the appearance of their dress which they appeared when
+first introduced to him."
+
+In the preparation of this book, it has been the aim of the maker to
+give in a concise form, all that is properly embraced in a comprehensive
+work on not only keeping our wardrobes in such a state as to cause us to
+appear to the best advantage, but also to give a complete instruction in
+the manipulation of garments and tools used in the process of properly
+cleaning, pressing and repairing all kinds of garments for men and
+women.
+
+A few hints may be helpful to the beginner as well as to those in the
+business.
+
+Observe a well dressed man or woman on the street or elsewhere, note the
+make up and fitting points of their garments, this will help the student
+to know good work, and try to do as well when doing the work himself.
+
+When learning the method of cleaning, repairing and pressing all kinds
+of garments for men and women, it is a good idea, if possible, to have a
+garment of the same sort as one is studying close at hand, following
+closely the instructions over all parts of the garment; thereby
+understanding the teachings better and become more familiar with the
+work.
+
+Should a garment need repairing of any kind or a button sewed on, do it
+and charge accordingly.
+
+Never give a customer clothes that are damp from pressing, allow them to
+dry before wearing or delivering.
+
+
+
+
+LESSON I.
+
+EQUIPMENT.
+
+
+Introduction: A few hints to the beginner as well as to those now in the
+business. The tools required and the best method of using same, for work
+at home or for business.
+
+
+TOOLS REQUIRED AND THEIR USE:
+
+The tools required for cleaning, repairing and pressing at home, or for
+business are as follows:
+
+For work at home, use an ordinary kitchen table with smooth top. For use
+in business, a table eight feet long, three feet wide and thirty inches
+high (or as high as is convenient for the presser, this may be easily
+determined by using). This is called a tailor's bench. The balance of
+the tools are the same for work at home or for business.
+
+The kitchen table or tailor's bench may be used for several purposes;
+the first of which is to place the iron, press-jack, sponge cloth, and
+garment while cleaning and pressing. Also for men to sit on while
+sewing.
+
+
+THE IRON.
+
+One may use an ordinary laundry iron (but would advise the purchase of a
+solid iron or tailor's goose, weighing from fourteen to twenty-two
+pounds, or according to one's strength), one may heat the iron on a coal
+range, gas or oil stove; or one may use a gas or electric iron, which
+are being used with great satisfaction, and are easily handled, being of
+little trouble to operate, also doing the work well. However, it is best
+to use whatever one considers most convenient, cheapest and best for the
+locality in which one resides.
+
+The iron is heated and placed on the iron rest, which has been placed on
+the table for that purpose, to the right of the presser, and is applied
+to the sponge cloth (that has been wrung out almost dry), causing steam
+to penetrate that part of the garment being pressed, thereby refreshing
+the cloth.
+
+The presser should have control of the iron at all times, also see that
+the iron is not too hot before using by testing it on a piece of light
+colored woolen material. If it scorches it is too hot for use, wait for
+a few minutes to cool.
+
+When pressing move the iron from place to place, on the part to be
+pressed, by lifting it clear each time, instead of shoving it along as
+some do. (To shove the iron along on the work is apt to stretch garments
+where not required, and also cause wrinkles). Keep the face of iron
+smooth by rubbing wax over the surface frequently, thereby removing any
+lint or dirt that may accumulate from time to time.
+
+
+THE PRESS-JACK.
+
+A press-jack such as the tailors use, is made of two hardwood boards,
+thirty-five inches long, one inch thick, planed both sides and edges and
+cut egg-shape; the wide end being eight inches in width, and the narrow
+or small end, four inches wide, one forming the top and the other the
+bottom.
+
+Between the top and bottom are screwed two blocks of solid wood, four by
+four inches, and six inches high. The first one is screwed to the top
+and bottom, three inches from the large end, and the second block is
+screwed to the top and bottom, seven inches from the large end, thereby
+leaving a space to the small end, of twenty-eight inches, for
+convenience in handling the garments while pressing.
+
+The top of the press-jack is left perfectly plain and smooth; the
+bottom, however, is padded for convenience for pressing with ten-ply of
+wadding, cut the same shape of board or bottom of press-jack. Over this
+place a piece of white heavy drilling, drawn tight over the wadding to
+keep in place and tacked all around the edges with brass head tacks. Cut
+cotton off evenly around the edges beyond the tacks. This completes the
+press-jack and is ready for use.
+
+The press-jack as tailors term it, is used for the pressing of clothes,
+and is also useful to lay clothes on while cleaning.
+
+
+THE BRUSH.
+
+A brush with a plain back and handle. (Never use a whisk broom to brush
+clothes as it injures the fibre of the cloth.)
+
+The brush is used to brush garments thoroughly before cleaning and is
+used in connection with the pressing of garments, to slap with the back
+the part pressed, thereby keeping the steam in, and making the cloth
+sweat. The face to brush the nap of cloth, thereby refreshing the
+garment, making it look like new.
+
+
+THE SPONGE CLOTH.
+
+A sponge cloth is made of heavy unbleached cotton, one yard and a half
+long, boiled in soap and water for one hour, then rinse in clean water,
+thus removing the lint.
+
+The sponge cloth should be dipped in warm water, and wrung out almost
+dry by hand, (or one may use a clothes wringer if preferred) thereby
+keeping it clean and free from grease and dirt that may stick to it from
+time to time.
+
+The sponge cloth is used to lay over the "woolen press cloth" that has
+been placed over that part of the garment to be pressed, also it is the
+cloth which is to be dampened and when iron is applied causes steam to
+be forced into the garment thereby instilling new life into the cloth as
+it were.
+
+
+THE UNDER WOOLEN PRESS CLOTH.
+
+Is made of a piece of plain light colored unfinished or finished worsted
+one yard long and eighteen inches wide.
+
+Place this under woolen press cloth over that part of garment to be
+pressed, then lay the sponge cloth on top of this, and apply the iron.
+
+By using these two press cloths together, prevents glossing the garment
+to a great extent, and may be used when pressing all kinds of garments
+for men and women.
+
+
+COAT AND TROUSER HANGERS, ETC.
+
+Coat and trouser hangers are used to place the several garments on to
+retain their shape after cleaning and pressing. They are also very
+essential in the home to place garments on that are not in use or being
+worn, it is better to place garments on forms than to hang up by loops
+that are placed on garments by tailors.
+
+Other necessities used in the cleaning, repairing and pressing of
+garments, are the sponge, tape measure, scissors, tailor's chalk,
+needles, thimble, bodkin for pulling bastings, a sewing machine, a large
+mirror, fashion plates, chairs, desk and safe, if one wishes.
+
+Afterward one may add as many tools as necessity requires and their
+business permits.
+
+
+
+
+LESSON II.
+
+CLEANING.
+
+
+Consists of several formulas for making Standard cleaning fluids, and
+the best method of using same, in the cleaning of all kinds of garments.
+How to prepare garments to be cleaned. How to steam clean. How to dry
+clean. The secret of success in cleaning. To clean velvet and velveteen.
+To remove paint, tar, grease and ink from garments. How to wash woolens.
+How to wash black woolen dresses. How to clean silk, satin and lace. To
+remove grease from delicate fabrics. To remove stains from linen and
+cotton goods. A formula for making moth preventative.
+
+
+CLEANING FLUID.
+
+(Formula.)
+
+     2 ounces Chloroform.
+     3 ounces Wood Alcohol.
+     2 ounces Sulphur Ether.
+     2 ounces Spirit of Wine.
+    10 ounces Ammonia.
+     3 ounces Oil of Turpentine.
+     2 ounces Glycerine.
+     Place all seven chemicals in one bottle.
+     3 ounces Borax.
+     3 ounces French Castile Soap.
+
+
+DIRECTIONS TO MIX:
+
+Cut the French Castile Soap in fine shavings, dissolve them together
+with the Borax, in four quarts of boiling water, cool this solution,
+being careful that all the soap is dissolved, then strain through muslin
+or thin woolen cloth, to remove any sediment. Then add the other seven
+chemicals, mix and shake well. This will make five quarts Cleaning
+Fluid.
+
+This cleaning fluid may be used on any garment with good results, as it
+will not injure the fibre of the cloth. Always rinse spot good with
+clean water and sponge, after using cleaning fluids.
+
+
+HOW TO PREPARE A SIMPLE CLEANING FLUID.
+
+(Formula.)
+
+    4 ounces Ammonia.
+    4 ounces Bay Rum.
+    1-6 ounce Salt Peter.
+
+To this add one pint of clean water, pour in a small neck bottle, keep
+well corked to avoid evaporating.
+
+This preparation will remove fresh or hard paint, tar, grease, oil and
+in fact any spots from clothing, dress goods, carpets, rugs, and all
+woolen goods without injury to the fabric. The above may be obtained at
+any drug store.
+
+
+HOW TO PREPARE MOTH PREVENTATIVE.
+
+(Formula.)
+
+    4 ounces Powder Borax.
+    4 ounces Powder Alum.
+    4 ounces Powder Camphor.
+
+Mix all three chemicals together thoroughly. This will make a white
+powder. Sprinkle freely around and under carpets before laying, also over
+clothing not in use. This powder will not leave a stain, and is easily
+brushed off. Use freely wherever moths appear.
+
+
+HOW TO USE THE CLEANING FLUIDS.
+
+Dampen a sponge or woolen cloth (white flannel is the best as there is
+no color to come out) by dipping it in the cleaning fluid, which has
+been poured into a basin for that purpose and convenience. Rub the spot
+to be cleaned with the dampened sponge, woolen cloth (or flannel) with
+the thread or nap of the cloth until the grease and dirt is loosened,
+then rinse with clean water, (always rinse sponge, cloth or flannel in
+clean water before cleaning the stain a second time with pure water)
+until stain entirely disappears.
+
+Always clean garments before repairing or relining.
+
+
+HOW TO PREPARE GARMENTS TO BE CLEANED.
+
+Turn all pockets inside out. Brush thoroughly and whip with cane if
+necessary, being careful not to break the buttons on the garment.
+
+See that the dust and dirt is thoroughly removed from the pockets, then
+return pockets to their place. This is a very important part and one
+which is very often neglected and overlooked. The garment is then ready
+to be cleaned. Proceed as above explained. If one application is not
+sufficient to remove the spots, repeat until spots are thoroughly
+removed.
+
+Coats are usually very dirty and greasy around the collar also down the
+fronts, great care should be taken to clean thoroughly and rinse often,
+thereby removing all stains.
+
+All coats, vests, trousers, overcoats, ladies' jackets, coats, waists,
+and all kinds of skirts should be cleaned by this same method.
+
+
+HOW TO STEAM CLEAN.
+
+To steam clean coats, vests, trousers, overcoats, ladies jackets and
+skirts and all wool garments:
+
+Place each garment in a basin of warm water first, and with soap and a
+brush go over the entire garment thoroughly, including sleeve lining.
+
+Second--pour water off and fill basin again with warmer water than at
+first, and wash with stiff brush and soap as before, using three waters
+or until garment is thoroughly cleaned.
+
+Remove soap water (do not wring garments but allow to drip, or squeeze
+water out) and rinse in hot water, then warm, then cooler, and so on
+until cold, adding one tablespoonful of coarse salt. (Dissolve salt in
+cold water before placing in basin). This will prevent garment from
+shrinking. Place on hanger to retain their shape, allowing water to drip
+out. Straighten out wrinkles as much as possible when drying, thus
+making the pressing easier, and when thoroughly dry, proceed to press as
+explained. If any spots remain after this process, remove with ammonia.
+
+For those who perspire under the arms freely, dress shields placed in
+the bottom of the arm holes of coats will be of great benefit.
+
+
+HOW TO DRY CLEAN.
+
+Use a basin large enough to hold one gallon of gasolene and the garment
+to be cleaned. (Being careful to keep gasolene away from the stove or a
+lighted candle, lamp, or gas.)
+
+Place one gallon of gasolene in the basin with the coat, and swash up
+and down until all grease and dirt has been loosened, then place on
+hangers in the open air, allowing to dry and gasolene to evaporate.
+
+Before dipping the coat in the basin, see that all dust and dirt is
+removed from the pockets by turning them inside out and brushing, also
+brush all seams.
+
+Use half a gallon for the vest, and one gallon for the trousers. The
+more gasolene used, the better will be the results.
+
+Gasolene may be used a second time on black goods, after filtering or
+settling, but never on light colored materials, ladies' jackets, coats,
+wool waists, and skirts may be cleaned in the same way.
+
+Gasolene, benzine, naptha, turpentine and ammonia should be of the best
+and purest, when used for cleaning purposes.
+
+The secret of success in cleaning, is by dipping the garment in a large
+quantity of the liquid. Not less than a gallon of gasolene, benzine or
+naptha should be used for a coat, jacket or skirt. Two gallons will do
+the work better. One should remove all spots if possible before dipping
+in the liquid. It is a good idea to surround each spot with a basting
+thread as when wet, some spots do not show. Soak each garment in the
+clear liquid, then soap all spots thoroughly, rub gently between the
+hands until spots disappear. Then wash and rinse garment in clear
+liquid. Place on hangers in the open air, or drying room, allowing odor
+to pass away.
+
+Soap may be used for cleaning in connection with gasolene with good
+results. One may use a little ammonia with the gasolene and soap. The
+goods should be well shaken, and pull all folds out straight with the
+threads of the goods. Velveteen, velvet and corduroy may be cleaned with
+gasolene, when pile or nap is not much worn.
+
+When cleaning velvet, or any other fabric, the most important part is to
+have all the dust and dirt removed, by brushing the garment or fabric
+thoroughly.
+
+To clean a velvet collar that is not too greasy, and the nap not worn
+off: Wet a piece of woolen cloth or flannel in gasolene and rub lightly,
+until the grease and dirt is loosened. Then apply more gasolene with a
+clean woolen cloth, and remove all grease and dirt. Place on hanger in
+the open air to dry and to evaporate before steaming. When much gasolene
+is used hang coat so that the collar hangs down, to allow the gasolene
+to drip out and evaporate, before steaming. Always being careful not to
+use gasolene near a stove, lighted candle, lamp or gas.
+
+When using gasolene for cleaning purposes, have it in a gasolene or
+benzine safety can, used for that purpose, which may be had at any
+hardware store.
+
+To remove old hard paint or tar, apply the cleaning fluid freely and
+place the sponge cloth over spot and press with the iron, as there is
+nothing that will loosen paint or tar as well as steam or heat. If one
+application is not sufficient repeat until loosened, then scrape off;
+after that use more cleaning fluid to remove any stains that may remain,
+then rinse in clean water.
+
+To remove ink stains from woolen materials:
+
+Apply cleaning fluid, two or three times, washing spots each time with
+clean water, and sponge until stain disappears.
+
+
+HOW TO WASH WOOLENS.
+
+Place four ounces of soap bark in a gallon of water in a kettle on a
+stove to boil, then add two more gallons of water. Throw this over the
+goods, that has been placed in another basin for that purpose and rub
+with the hands. Rinse in warm water, and hang up to dry. Iron on the
+wrong side when damp, until dry, (this will remove all wrinkles and make
+goods look like new). This is especially good for worn garments, that
+are to be cut and made over.
+
+Woolens should be squeezed, and not wrung, and the wrinkles straightened
+out while drying.
+
+
+HOW TO WASH BLACK WOOLEN DRESSES.
+
+Have the dress ripped apart, brushed, and all dust and dirt removed from
+the seams, also all the old stitches. Pour four gallons of water in a
+pail or basin, adding four ounces of ammonia. Dip each piece of the
+garment into the liquid, and swash up and down, and squeeze as dry as
+possible, then hang over a pole, and when almost dry, iron from the
+wrong side until dry, with an iron not too hot.
+
+Woolen dresses, that are much soiled, may be washed in soap and water,
+and rinsed out before dipping in the ammonia water, which will improve
+the color to a great extent.
+
+Any material, such as worsted, and wool garments should be sponged with
+ammonia and water.
+
+When cleaning with gasolene, benzine or naptha, to remove the odor, the
+article should be placed as near a steam radiator as possible, or in a
+drying room heated by steam or otherwise, this removes the odor, the
+steam heat dries out whatever of the fluid may have remained in the
+material, and does so without the danger of explosion which makes it
+impossible to dry a garment cleaned with the above near a lighted stove,
+lamp, candle or gas.
+
+
+HOW TO WASH CHAMOIS VESTS.
+
+Wash with white soap and warm water, making a good lather and rubbing
+well between the hands. Lay flat on a table, and rub with a dry, clean
+cloth; rinse; then roll in another cloth and wring as dry as possible.
+Unroll and stretch well; hang up, and when nearly dry press with a warm
+iron, being careful not to have the iron too hot or it will spoil the
+chamois.
+
+
+HOW TO CLEAN SILK.
+
+Use hot gasolene, heated in a double boiler (never put gasolene on a
+stove) place the gasolene in the double boiler, after it has been
+removed from the stove and while the water is still boiling, place the
+silk to be cleaned in the boiler, and swash up and down until it is
+thoroughly cleaned, then remove and place in the open air to dry and
+evaporate.
+
+
+TO CLEAN BLACK SILK.
+
+Brush and wipe with flannel cloth, lay on a table with the side to be
+worn up; then sponge with hot coffee (strain coffee through muslin
+before using). When damp, lay cloth on and iron until thoroughly dry.
+
+
+TO REMOVE GREASE FROM SILK.
+
+Use a lump of magnesia (moistened), rub on the spot and allow to dry;
+then brush powder off. Repeat if necessary.
+
+Silks and satins should be sponged with ammonia and water. It is not
+necessary to soak ribbon, unless they are very dirty. Only black
+material should be cleaned with strong ammonia as a difference in the
+dye stuffs may cause the material to turn red, wherever the ammonia
+touches it.
+
+To clean a colored silk dress, mix together four ounces of soap, six
+ounces of honey, and a pint and a quarter of gin, rub in well with small
+brush, rinse each piece at once in cold water thoroughly, drain and iron
+while wet. This is especially good for black, also black and white
+silks.
+
+Silks may be stiffened by adding two or three lumps of sugar, or half a
+teaspoonful of gum Arabic to the water. Place over a round pole and
+while damp place a piece of muslin over the silk and iron until dry.
+
+
+TO CLEAN BLACK LACE.
+
+To a cup of strong tea, add one-half teaspoonful of gum Arabic. Dip the
+lace into the liquid, and squeeze it dry, two or three times (do not
+wring). Roll in a cloth and when almost dry, straighten out all the
+scallops carefully by hand, being careful to have it of universal width,
+and place on a soft cloth or padded board and lay a piece of muslin over
+it, then iron until dry. This is suitable for ordinary lace. But real
+lace should be pinned or tacked to a board, being careful to draw out
+all loops of the edge, and not drag the lace out of shape.
+
+All stains and spots should be removed as soon as possible. Ink stains
+may be taken out of clothing by dipping the spot in milk, and squeezing
+the blackened milk into a basin, dipping in clear milk again. Repeat
+this process until the ink stain has entirely disappeared; then wash the
+cloth in warm water, to remove the fat in the milk.
+
+Some inks are very difficult to remove but with a little patience, one
+of the processes will remove any ink stain.
+
+To remove grease spots from delicate fabrics, requires great care. When
+the color and fabric will not be injured, use the cleaning fluid.
+Otherwise use French chalk or magnesia powder. Place upon the spots,
+allow to remain for a short time. This will often absorb the grease. If
+one application is not sufficient, brush off and apply again until the
+spot disappears.
+
+When water may be used on the cloth, the chalk may be made into a paste
+and spread on the spot and left until dry then brush off.
+
+When color of a piece of goods has been accidentally or otherwise
+destroyed by acid. Apply ammonia to neutralize the same after which an
+application of chloroform will in almost every case restore the spot to
+its original color.
+
+
+TO REMOVE STAINS FROM COTTON AND LINEN GOODS.
+
+To remove stains from linen and cotton, wet spots with luke warm water,
+then squeeze the juice of a lemon over the stain, sprinkle with salt,
+then place in the sun to hasten bleaching. If one application is not
+sufficient to remove the stains, repeat until thoroughly cleaned.
+
+To remove scorch from cotton, place in the hot sun until scorch
+disappears.
+
+To remove machine oil from white linen, cotton, or light goods. Rub with
+pure white lard, then wash with warm water and soap.
+
+To remove iron rust.--Dip in medium strong solution of oxalic acid, then
+hold over the spout of a boiling tea kettle. Rinse the spot in two or
+three waters, then wash in the usual way.
+
+To remove Fruit and Berry Stains.--Place spot over a bowl and pour
+boiling water through the cloth until stain disappears.
+
+To remove Mildew.--Rub soap on the damaged article then salt and starch
+on that; rub well in and place in the sun until spots entirely
+disappear.
+
+Fruit, ink, blood and other stains should be removed before the clothes
+are wet in the laundry. Tea, coffee, wine and most fruit stains, can be
+taken out with clear boiling water, by stretching the stained portions
+over a bowl and pouring hot water through. If they do not come out, use
+a solution of borax, ammonia and chloride of lime, or burn some sulphur
+and hold the stains over the fumes. Fresh ink stains may be removed by
+an application of dampened salt, allow to remain for several hours, or
+soak in warm milk or vinegar and water. Lemon juice and salt placed on
+the spots will often suffice.
+
+Grass stains are most difficult to remove. Dip the spots in molasses;
+let it remain until thoroughly saturated, then wash out in clean water.
+Repeat if necessary.
+
+Mud Stains--May be removed by soaking spots in a solution of oxalic
+acid. Rinse in several waters; then in ammonia and water last.
+
+Cocoa stains may be removed by sprinkling borax over the spot. Then soak
+in cold water, and pour on boiling water.
+
+Obstinate blood stains--Should be saturated in kerosene, then rubbed
+with soap and washed in luke warm water.
+
+To prevent muslin from fading--Use a weak solution of sugar of lead.
+
+
+
+
+LESSON III.
+
+REPAIRING.
+
+
+In this lesson is explained how to repair and reline coats, vests,
+trousers, overcoats, Tuxedos, Dress Coats, Vests, Prince Alberts, also
+Ladies' Jackets and Coats. How to put new Silk facings on coats. How to
+repair sleeves that are worn out around the bottom. How to put velvet
+collars on coats. The use of basting thread. How to prevent trousers
+bagging at the knee. How to prepare button holes for working. How to
+make button holes. Darning a three-cornered tear. Hems and felling same.
+Back stitching.
+
+
+INSTRUCTIONS IN REPAIRING.
+
+To reline all kinds of coats and jackets for men and women. When new
+lining is required in coats, rip out the old lining, starting to rip the
+sleeve lining, first around top or sleeve head, then at the bottom or
+cuff. Now remove the whole lining and rip apart and iron out smooth and
+use as a pattern for the new, cutting new lining out exactly same size
+as the pattern, down the seams, but for convenience in working, allow
+two seams longer at the bottom and two seams longer at the top. Place
+one top and one bottom sleeve lining together, Baste seams, having the
+two right sides of lining together, and seam on machine, (or one may sew
+the seams on the machine without basting, this may be done with a little
+practice), press seams open on small end of press-jack, baste top of
+sleeve lining in; all around, one-quarter of an inch, now turn right
+sleeve inside out and baste right sleeve lining in by fastening the
+back seam of the sleeve lining to that of the back sleeve seam of coat,
+baste with long loose stitches, start basting two inches below top of
+sleeve, to two inches within the bottom, being careful not to get lining
+in too short (take one quarter inch seam when sewing on machine), as
+this will cause sleeve to draw up, and hang in wrinkles, now fasten the
+front arm seams same as back, so that each seam will come directly on
+top of the sleeve seam. Turn sleeve right side out, and mark with chalk
+on lining of coat at each sleeve seam and baste sleeve seams at top of
+sleeve lining to correspond with the sleeve seams of garment, and baste
+lining all around until one becomes familiar with the work.
+
+Now see that the lining is sufficiently long; cut lining off even with
+the bottom of the cuff, and baste sleeve lining up two inches from the
+bottom. Then with needle and silk fell around both sleeves, top and
+bottom. Turn sleeve right side out and remove basting stitches.
+
+Rip out the body lining, starting at the right facing, and rip down and
+around the pocket to one inch above and one inch below the pocket across
+bottom, up side seam, and across shoulder. Then remove lining, and iron
+out smooth, to use as a pattern, for new lining as before, leaving the
+left side of the lining in as a guide to the beginner as to how the
+lining should be placed. Then cut the new lining for the right side one
+half inch larger all around than the pattern for allowance in shrinking,
+and also for convenience while working. Then baste lining in right side,
+being careful not to put lining in too tight. Rather have it too long,
+but not so long that it hangs below the bottom of garment. Coats will
+not hang well with tight or short lining. Turn edge of lining in down
+front, and across bottom with basting, and fasten lining to side seam of
+forepart with long loose basting stitches. Then rip lining out of left
+side and iron out smoothly for a pattern, cut and baste in new lining on
+left side the same as explained for the right. Now cut the back lining
+double and seam down back centre seam, basting one inch plait for ease,
+then press to one side, and baste in back, and turn all edges in, down
+side seams, across bottom and shoulders, and back of neck. Now fasten
+lining all around arm hole to the seam, thereby holding lining in place,
+so as not to allow it to come loose. Cut lining off even with seam all
+around arm hole, then baste sleeve lining around.
+
+Cut lining to back of pocket, and at back end, cut lining in a trifle to
+allow working, and for turning in around the pocket, and fell lining in
+all around the pocket mouth, and proceed to fell the lining, doing the
+same with the left side. Now finish felling the entire coat. Remove
+basting stitches, and finish garment in the usual way.
+
+Ladies' jackets and coats are relined in the same way, also all kinds of
+men's coats and overcoats included.
+
+When new silk facings are required for coats, remove the old facing, and
+use it as a pattern for the new, and when cutting the new facing, allow
+three quarters of an inch all around for convenience, while working.
+Baste new silk facing on very neat, and take time to do good work. When
+basting is completed, fell all around with fine silk, being careful not
+to draw the stitches tight, nor to contract the edge.
+
+Try to have the new silk facing put on so that it will look better than
+the old one did when new. This will bring you customers. The price to
+charge for such work is by the hour and for material used.
+
+
+TO RELINE VESTS.
+
+Rip old lining and back out of right side, and iron out smooth for a
+pattern.
+
+Now cut forepart lining one half inch larger all around and baste in
+forepart lining, observing how the left is put in. Baste edges of lining
+in, down facing, across bottom and around arm hole, (when one becomes
+familiar the right sides of lining may be placed to that of the
+foreparts and sewed around the armholes by machine, thereby saving the
+felling by hand).
+
+Now rip left inside lining out and replace it with new lining, same as
+the right. Fell all around, then iron the back lining out smooth for a
+pattern, cutting it exactly the same size as the old one, and mark with
+chalk, where seam was sewn before. Cut inside lining the same size, and
+seam back seams on the machine, and press open (or one may stitch to one
+side), place right sides together to sew; smooth with iron, and baste
+the right forepart, side seam to that of the back lining, also to the
+shoulder. Baste left side the same way. Now baste the inside lining to
+inside of vest. This will leave an opening at the top of neck and
+bottom. Now baste, placing both back seams together, and baste each way
+to the side seams. This will leave an opening, now only at the neck,
+thereby forming a pocket, or bag for the vest, as it were. Sew with
+machine, in same seam as at first, down side seam, across shoulder, and
+bottom, and around arm holes, notch lining around back arm hole. Remove
+basting, and turn vest right side out at the neck. Baste lining even
+around bottom and arm hole. Now baste lining across back of neck, inside
+and out, then fell entire lining.
+
+When basting the shoulders of vest, have the back lining one quarter of
+an inch full in the hollow of front of shoulder, to allow for
+stretching, and to form a concave.
+
+Should vests require to be made larger, when one has the lining out, all
+one has to do, is to mark with chalk or thread, the amount to be made
+larger, adding amount from the old seam on back, and baste forepart side
+seams to the mark to be made larger. If new pockets are required, and
+one is not familiar with the work, remove the pocket very carefully,
+observing every detail as to how it should be put together. Iron out
+smooth and cut new pocket, seam around, all but mouth, and place inside
+of pocket, and turn edges in all around top or mouth of pocket, and fell
+with silk same color as pocket (never remove welt from pocket when only
+new pockets are required). Should the buttonholes need repairing, repair
+them. Also see that the buttons are sewed on firm. Darn all holes, and
+clean and allow to dry before new lining is placed.
+
+
+NEW WAIST BAND LINING IN TROUSERS.
+
+Remove old one, and iron out smooth and use for pattern. Cut new one out
+and baste in and fell around tops and down sides, and fasten at pockets
+to hold in place. If new buttons are required, sew them on before new
+lining is placed, so as not to sew through the lining. Repair trousers
+where needed.
+
+=To repair sleeves that are worn out around the bottom= run a basting
+thread around both sleeves five inches from the bottom of cuff, to hold
+lining in place, then rip sleeve lining around the bottom, unfasten the
+turn up of sleeve from the wigan, (darn sleeve edge if necessary when
+it is worn through), now baste up firmly one eighth of an inch, or as
+much more as the sleeve will allow and still be of sufficient length,
+(run basting one-quarter inch from bottom), fasten the turn up back to
+the wigan with basting (this basting is left in); now let sleeve lining
+come down, and if it is longer than to the end of cuff; cut off what
+comes below.
+
+Then turn sleeve lining in on the turn up two inches from the bottom of
+cuff with basting stitches, and fell lining with silk same color as the
+cloth or lining. Finish both sleeves the same. Remove basting, turn
+sleeves right side out; and press all around cuff as explained. When
+felling do not take long stitches, short ones look neater and are
+stronger and work will have a better appearance when finished. Should
+the sleeve be finished with stitching around the cuff, finish the same
+when repairing. Sew buttons on, this completes the repairing of sleeves
+at the bottom.
+
+
+HOW TO PUT VELVET COLLARS ON COATS.
+
+Remove old one, pick out old stitches in coat collar (the old stitches
+in velvet do not matter), place coat in a convenient manner on the
+press-jack and press collar and lapels into shape.
+
+Cut new velvet collar one-eighth inch larger on each side than the
+pattern, or larger if necessary, and steam over an iron as explained.
+Stretch the edges a trifle on each side of velvet, being careful not to
+leave finger or thumb marks, and when cool, baste on coat, (silk thread
+should be used when basting velvet) in collar crease through velvet to
+hold in place.
+
+Run another basting below crease and in the stand of collar, and another
+row of basting on leaf of collar close to the crease. Run another
+basting near the outside edge of collar leaf, and form a cushion at each
+end to allow ample room for ends to curl under (instead of up). See that
+the velvet is not basted on too tight or too short.
+
+Now turn velvet in over old seam or stitches on the inside of coat
+collar, from end to end; and baste velvet over edge and all around leaf.
+Now cut velvet off even along the leaf, then fell inside of velvet to
+coat neck with silk to match; and herringbone velvet to leaf all around
+from end to end. Make a loop or hanger out of a straight piece of lining
+one-half inch wide, and turn all edges in and fold again and fell
+together; now sew to the coat as before, turning both edges of loop in,
+and tacking same through stand of collar. Remove all basting by cutting
+each stitch and pulling out from the right side, and with the nap of the
+velvet.
+
+
+TO STEAM COLLAR.
+
+Place iron on its side, cover with a piece of paper, over this lay a wet
+sponge cloth; then hold coat collar very close to steaming cloth (when
+one is familiar with the work they may allow the collar to rest on the
+steaming cloth for a minute), and move back and forth, allowing steam to
+come through the velvet. Then remove the collar and shape by hand, as
+when worn. Brush the nap gently to freshen while steaming, but with a
+very soft brush. Place on coat hanger, and allow to dry before wearing
+or delivering.
+
+Good sewing, good pressing, well finished ends and corners, lightness of
+touch which holds the work without apparently touching it, will give to
+the finished garment a fresh look.
+
+All these are important considerations.
+
+When darning, great care must be taken to have the work finished up
+neatly, as darning and mending is an art, and like everything else,
+requires patience and practice.
+
+=Basting= is only used in the preparation of work, to hold stuff and
+lining, or any two or more parts of the work together, while it is being
+stitched, as none of the basting is left in the finished garment. It is
+also used as a guide for sewing and marking on light colored goods as it
+will not leave a mark as would colored chalk. For ordinary work, basting
+stitches should be cut every few inches and drawn out.
+
+It is impossible to prevent trousers bagging at the knee, but here is an
+idea that will help materially to keep knees in shape. Fasten a piece of
+silk to the forepart of trousers on the inside to the seams and across
+bottom and top seven inches above and ten inches below the knee, being
+careful not to allow stitches to show through on right side.
+
+Buttonholes may be made easy to work by spacing off the number required,
+with pins or thread marks.
+
+Mark length of hole, and stitch on a machine the desired length, then
+turn at right angles and take two stitches, then turn back and stitch
+other side. Turn at right angles and take two more stitches, thereby
+tacking both ends. All buttonholes may be stitched in one garment
+without removing from the machine.
+
+This method takes the place of serging or overcasting and is much better
+for thin ravelly goods.
+
+
+MAKING BUTTONHOLES.
+
+Buttonholes should be overcasted or serged as soon as cut, with fine
+thread or silk, the stitches should be light, loose and even, this is
+done with a slanting stitch.
+
+Making buttonholes: Insert the needle on the edge of the material and
+when half way through, take the two threads at the eye of the needle
+bring them towards you at the right and under the point of the needle,
+drawing the thread from you, making the purl or loop stitch come
+directly on the edge of the buttonhole. Stitches should lay close
+together just far enough apart for the purl or loop stitch to form,
+always have each stitch of the universal length so the stitches will look
+straight on each side of the buttonhole, the stitches may be placed
+closer together at the end as most wear comes there.
+
+
+DARNING A THREE CORNERED TEAR.
+
+A three cornered tear may be darned in two ways. Commence by darning
+diagonally through the center, darning back and forth towards the end of
+the tear until one-half has been finished; then begin at the center and
+work in the opposite direction. At the corner, the stitches should form
+the shape of a fan. Another method which is stronger, is done by darning
+a square in the angle, first with the warp threads, then with the woof
+threads, and finishing each end across the tear.
+
+
+HEMS AND THE FELLING OF SAME.
+
+A hem is a fold of goods doubled twice to prevent a raw edge. The fold
+should be turned even and straight with the thread of the material, on
+this depends the neatness of one's work. The hem should always be turned
+in toward the worker and basted firmly not too near the edge, leaving
+one-eighth inch space for working. Felling--when felling or hemming, the
+needle should take up only the edge to be hemmed or felled down and just
+enough to hold on the cloth or lining. When felling or hemming take
+small stitches close together, even, and do not draw thread or silk too
+tight as to cause the edge to have the appearance of the teeth of a saw.
+
+
+BACK STITCHING.
+
+The back stitch is made by placing the needle back in the last stitch,
+bringing it out once the length of the last stitch, then placing the
+needle back into last stitch and so on, being careful not to draw the
+thread too tight as to have a drawing appearance, make the stitches
+follow each other without leaving a space between. Back stitching is
+used in places where much strain is on the seam.
+
+Bias hems, such as sleeve head lining, etc.
+
+All bias hems and curved edges, should have the folds basted in.
+
+
+
+
+LESSON IV.
+
+ALTERATIONS.
+
+
+How to shorten and lengthen coat sleeves. How to raise and lower
+collars. How to alter (or change) a coat that is too large around the
+neck and collar. How to make the alteration when a coat is too large
+over the chest. How to change a vest that is too large around. How to
+make a vest larger around. How to change trousers that are too long. How
+to lengthen trousers. How to make trousers smaller around the waist. How
+to make trousers larger around the waist, whether there is an outlet or
+not. How to make button cords for sewing on buttons. An easy way to hang
+a skirt. How to iron over buttons without breaking. Also how to iron
+embroidery.
+
+
+HOW TO MAKE ALTERATIONS ON GARMENTS.
+
+When sleeves are to be shortened or lengthened, have customer try coat
+on, and mark with chalk, the length desired. Then remove coat and run a
+basting of cotton around both sleeves, five inches above cuff, to hold
+lining in place, while doing the work. Then with a knife or scissors,
+rip lining around both cuffs. Unfasten turn up from wigan. This will
+allow turn up to fall down. Now mark with chalk, around both sleeves,
+the correct length. Turn up and baste solid, and fasten turn up, to
+wigan, same as before. Now allow lining to fall down, and cut off even
+all around the end of the cuff. Baste lining two inches from the edge of
+cuff, and fell with silk same color as the cloth or lining. These
+instructions are for shortening sleeves.
+
+=When sleeves are to be lengthened=, proceed as before, but with this
+difference,--should the lining, and turn up of cuff not meet, it will be
+necessary to piece the lining or sew hand facings to the bottom of
+sleeve, same as the cloth in garment, or as near as possible. Then fell
+sleeve lining to facing.
+
+=When sleeves are to be lengthened=, baste a piece of wigan to that
+which is now in place, the amount to be lengthened, and fasten turn up
+to the wigan, and turn sleeve lining in two inches from the end of cuff.
+Fell sleeve lining to turn up as before.
+
+=Sleeves may be lengthened= all of the turn up, by sewing a piece of
+cloth to the sleeve, same as the garment, same size around, and sewn in
+a seam on the machine. Baste and turn edges out even, and press firm,
+stitch around with machine, thereby making it firm and solid.
+
+Stitch edge of sleeve to match edge of coat.
+
+Fasten ends of silk thread by threading them to a needle and taking a
+stitch or two, then cut off. Sew buttons on as required. This completes
+the lengthening of sleeves.
+
+=Should coat collar be too high=, run a row of basting cotton, two
+inches below the collar seam; mark with chalk the amount to be lowered,
+then rip with knife or scissors, inside and out from crease to crease.
+Now baste under collar to neck of coat first, and fasten inside of coat
+to the stand of collar. Now baste the outside or top collar on the
+inside to the coat in keeping with the amount lowered and fell inside
+and outside of collar. Sew loop on back of coat collar inside, and
+remove basting. Place coat collar on press-jack in a convenient manner
+and press in same crease as when worn.
+
+Place on a coat hanger, to retain its proper shape and to dry before
+wearing. (When basting under collar to coat neck, start basting from
+center back seam, forward to each side.)
+
+=When coat collar is to be raised=, run a row of basting cotton two
+inches below the collar seam, from end to end. Rip under collar and
+unfasten coat from stand of collar inside and rip inside collar from
+crease to crease. Mark with chalk the amount to be raised, and start
+basting from the center back seam, forward to each side; then fasten
+coat to the stand of collar, and baste inside or top collar to the
+inside of coat the amount raised on the outside. Fasten loop to stand of
+collar inside, remove bastings and place coat collar on press-jack in a
+convenient way, press as before and hang to dry before wearing.
+
+If however, the coat collar is to be raised and one finds that by
+raising, that the collar will be too long, the collar may be cut in the
+center and seamed or taken off at one end (if only raised on one side)
+or both as the case may be; if raised all around, the collar must be
+shortened at both ends.
+
+This is a very particular piece of work, and should not be attempted
+unless the garment is old, and one wants to practice on it; this may be
+had by altering an old garment for practice, as with practice, most
+anything may be accomplished. (When one has had considerable experience
+in this line, then it may be done without taking it to a tailor; until
+then, it will be best to let the experienced tailor do the work on a
+good coat.)
+
+=When a coat is too large around the neck and collar=, and falls away at
+the bottom when unbuttoned, and bulges at the opening when buttoned, is
+an indication that the garment is not balanced properly. This may be
+changed to fit perfectly in the following manner: Run a basting three
+inches from each side of the shoulder seams and to front of coat to
+collar end. Rip collar off from crease to crease, rip shoulder seams
+from neck to within two inches of the sleeve seam, and mark with chalk,
+the amount to be taken in (as the shoulder strap is too long from neck
+to bottom of arm hole and must be shortened so that the coat will hang
+squarely and well balanced when unbuttoned as well as when buttoned),
+mark from neck gradually to nothing at the end of the two inches, from
+the shoulder or sleeve head; this amount to be taken off the forepart in
+all cases, baste back to shoulder seam and press open, unless a trifle
+may be taken off the center back seam at top, which is a good idea, so
+that the collar will fall more closely to the neck. Baste shoulder and
+lining together. Now baste collar on, starting at the center back seam,
+and baste forward each way, and if found too long, shorten as explained
+above; fell shoulders and collar. Finish collar neatly and press
+shoulder and collar.
+
+When one side is to be altered (this one may see when customer has coat
+on and buttoned, and one side stands away from the neck), in that case,
+only change one side.
+
+=When a coat is too large over the chest=, and by setting the buttons
+back from the edge two and one-half inches (which is only to be done in
+extreme cases) will not have the desired effect; run a row of basting
+cotton around arm hole two inches from the sleeve seam, across shoulder
+to the front end of collar and two inches from the shoulder seam. Rip
+sleeves and shoulders out and collar off from end to end, press seam out
+smooth, and mark with chalk the amount shoulder is to be advanced, say
+from one-quarter to three-quarters of an inch, as the case may be (this
+may be easily determined when the coat is on the customer, notice the
+amount of lap and then judge the amount), baste back shoulder to
+forepart of coat having the top of back even with the chalk mark; seam
+and press open, baste shoulder and lining together, now baste collar on,
+then baste sleeve in, and seam and press open seam as before and fix up
+sleeve head, and cut off end of shoulder amount shoulder was advanced at
+shoulder point. This will take surplus goods away from the front and
+allow goods to go back; finish collar, shoulders and sleeves and press.
+
+Double breasted coats are different, the buttons may be set from the
+edge, according to style and fashion.
+
+When a coat is too large in the back, take part out in the side seams
+and part out in the center back seam; the best way to determine the
+amount to be taken out, is to pin each seam a trifle when customer has
+coat on, then one will get the proper effect of the alteration.
+
+=When a vest is too large around=, it may be pinned on the customer,
+down the side seams and center back the desired amount to be taken out;
+this alteration may be done in the following manner: Rip vest across
+back of neck, rip each side seam, mark with chalk the amount to be taken
+in on each side seam and center back seams. Baste forepart to that of
+the back at side seams and baste center back seam together, lining and
+outside.
+
+Seam on machine, remove the basting, turn vest right side out and fell
+across back of neck. Press side seams, back and around neck; place on
+hanger to retain shape.
+
+=When vest is to be made larger=, proceed as follows: Rip side seams and
+across the back of neck, press out side seams of back, and remove
+stitches, and if there is an outlet, mark with chalk the amount to be
+let out on each side, and baste as before and finish the same. If there
+is no outlet, one must sew a piece of lining to the outside and inside
+lining; press open the seams or stitch to one side and press. Then mark
+with chalk the amount to be let out and proceed as explained and finish.
+
+=When trousers are too long=, they may be shortened in the following
+manner: Mark with chalk (using the tape line for measuring length) the
+desired length, loosen the bottoms, (if felled, rip with knife or
+scissors, being careful not to cut the cloth), if there is rubber in the
+bottoms, wet a piece of cloth with gasolene, and rub over the outside
+and pull turn up free from the bottoms. Turn trousers inside out, allow
+to dry after using gasolene before turning up bottoms. If rubber is to
+be put in the bottoms, cut a piece one inch and a half wide, and baste
+in the turn up or hem and fasten hem to the side seams with silk, only
+leave a two inch turn up, cut balance off.
+
+Before pressing, place on the small end of press-jack and press all
+around as in pressing cuffs or bottom of trousers as explained. (But not
+with sponge cloth, only with iron and wet bottoms with sponge). Press
+until rubber is thoroughly melted and set. When one has pressed both
+bottoms all around, turn trousers right side out and press bottoms as in
+ordinary pressing.
+
+When bottoms are felled, leave two inches for turn up and cut off the
+balance. Fell with silk all around, being careful not to let stitches
+show through on right side. Press bottoms same as explained.
+
+=When trousers are to be lengthened=, loosen them at the bottom measure
+with tape line, the desired length, from crotch down, making them one
+inch shorter in the back or according to fashion. Mark with chalk the
+desired length, and place rubber or fell as the case may be, and press
+as explained; but if trousers are to be lengthened, all. It will be
+necessary, to sew a piece of cloth to the bottoms same size and same
+cloth (or as near as possible), sew on machine and baste edges out even,
+and place rubber or fell; press bottoms and finish in the usual way by
+turning trousers right side out, and pressing bottoms and legs. Sew heel
+protectors on (they may be made of silesia by turning all edges in, or
+made of cloth, same material as trousers) half inch wide and four inches
+long, sewn half; each side of the center or crease of back trouser
+bottom. This must be sewed to the inside of bottom.
+
+=When trousers are too large around the waist=, mark with chalk (or pin
+on customer), the amount to be taken in, rip back seam down as far as is
+required. Remove the two back suspender buttons and rip lining back far
+enough for convenience in working. Baste the back seam together and sew
+in the chalk mark (by machine or by hand) to within two inches of the
+top of waist band; press seam open and fasten back seam at waist to the
+waist band on each side and leave an outlet one inch and a half wide,
+each side of the back seam at the top, tapering to nothing at the bottom
+or three inches from the inside leg seam.
+
+Sew back suspender buttons on two inches each side of back seam. Put a
+good neck on buttons to allow suspender button holes to fit smoothly
+around button. This may be done by placing a match or pin over the top
+of button and sewing over it, filling the holes with twisted thread or
+button cord made for that purpose, as explained in (how to make button
+cord.)
+
+When holes are filled, remove the match or pin, and wind cord around
+under button, and fasten by taking two stitches through the neck, and
+cut thread off. Now fell lining back in place, leaving an opening at top
+of, say two inches in back seam for ease. Press and finish in the usual
+way.
+
+=When trousers are to be made larger around waist=, rip lining three
+inches each side of the back seam at top and remove the two top back
+suspender buttons. Rip back seam down the required amount and press out
+the mark made by the seam. Now with the chalk, mark the amount to be
+made larger, half the amount on each side of seam, baste seam and sew on
+machine or by hand in chalk mark. Remove basting, and press seam open,
+fasten to each side of the seam at waist as before, leaving two inches
+open at the top for ease. Sew two back suspender buttons on; and fell
+waist band lining. Finish and press in the usual way.
+
+=When trousers are to be made larger at the waist=, and there is nothing
+to let out, remove back suspender buttons as explained, and waist band
+lining. Cut a piece of cloth "V" shape as long as is necessary and of
+the same material or as near as possible; make this piece two seams
+wider than required. This may be determined by the amount to be made
+larger, (the larger the piece at the top, the longer the wedge will have
+to be, as it will not do to have an abrupt slant). Baste right sides of
+cloth and trousers together, sew on machine and remove basting and press
+open the seam. Then baste other side and seam, then press open; fasten a
+piece of canvas across the top of waist where piece has been set in, and
+stitch with machine across, in keeping with the stitching on the waist
+band. If no waist seam, just stitch even with the waist stitching. Sew
+back suspender buttons on, and fell waist band lining at top, and finish
+as explained, fastening waist band lining to seams to hold it in place;
+press and finish. When pressing seams, always press on the smooth side
+of the press-jack, and dampen with the wet sponge, this will make
+pressing easier; but do not put too much water on seams.
+
+=How to make button cords for sewing on buttons=. Thread a needle with
+linen thread double, then rub beeswax up and down the thread; then
+twist, and when one has twisted enough, rub with a piece of cloth. This
+will help to keep the twist in the cord and make it strong, which is
+very essential in sewing on buttons; one knows how annoying it is to
+have buttons coming off; this may be prevented by sewing them on good
+with twisted thread.
+
+When using silk thread, always draw it through beeswax and rub through
+cloth to remove excess wax. This will make the silk stronger, and also
+will slip through the cloth more easily when sewing.
+
+=A good method of hanging a skirt.= Have customer stand on top of the
+stairs, the fitter sitting on the second step. This is an easy way to
+see that skirts hang evenly all around, marking the proper length
+without rising, or getting on the knees or sitting on the floor.
+
+=Ironing over buttons made easy and safe.= Place four ply wadding on
+press-jack, buttons facing wadding. Iron from the wrong side until dry.
+This is equally good in ironing embroidery waists. (When ironing
+embroidery white wadding should be used.)
+
+
+
+
+LESSON V.
+
+PRESSING.
+
+
+How to sponge and shrink all kinds of woolen goods for dressmakers and
+tailors, before making into garments, also for one's own use at home.
+How to use the iron and sponge cloths. How to press hard finished
+worsteds. How to press single and double breasted sack coats, overcoats,
+rain coats, Tuxedos, motormen and conductors, also fatigue coats,
+cutaways, morning, dress coats, Prince Alberts, military, clerical,
+uniforms, footman's liveries, Newmarket, Paddock and Palitot. All kind
+of jackets, coats and skirts for ladies. How to press single and double
+breasted vests with or without collars, also clerical and fancy vests.
+How to press trousers.
+
+How to sponge and shrink all kinds of woolen goods for dressmakers and
+tailors, before making into garments, also for one's use at home.
+
+To prepare a sponge cloth for that purpose, use unbleached cotton four
+yards long, (or as long as the cloth to be shrunk requires), boil in
+soap and water for one hour, rinse in clean water to remove any lint,
+then it is ready for use.
+
+Place woolen goods to be sponged on a table or clean floor, then wet the
+sponge cloth by dipping it into a pail or basin of warm water so that it
+will get thoroughly wet, wring out almost dry (but not so dry as when
+pressing) and place over the goods smoothly, see that the cloth is free
+from wrinkles. Make a flat roll six inches wide, or as wide as a
+wrapping board would be (do not roll on a board as it will leave a mark
+difficult to remove). Roll evenly until cloth to be shrunk is thoroughly
+covered, sides and ends with sponge cloth.
+
+=Time required for goods to remain in sponge.= Close woven material,
+such as hard finished worsteds, broad cloth, kerseys, meltons and
+beavers, require to be left in sponge three hours while open wove goods,
+such as homespuns, unfinished worsteds, soft overcoatings, and ladies'
+cloth requires but two hours. When goods is ready to be taken out of
+sponge, unroll and place over a round pole, (sufficient height to allow
+cloth to clear the floor), or lay smoothly on a table or floor.
+
+When dry, fold (not roll) double, and so on until you have a fold seven
+or eight inches wide, and small enough to place in a package.
+
+The wrinkles may be pressed out with a warm iron, being careful not to
+allow gloss to form, and see that iron is not hot enough to burn or
+scorch cloth. Also to see that ends are even especially on stripes and
+checks, and to see that checks and plaids match.
+
+When pressing always have the iron to the right on the table, the edge
+of the garment facing toward the presser. Start pressing the right side
+of all garments first. In this way forming a system of doing the work.
+
+When pressing all kinds of coats, vests, ladies' jackets and coats, have
+the neck, collar, or waist seam lying on the small end of the
+press-jack, and start from the center back seam of all coats and vests,
+and press forward on the right side, toward the front edge.
+
+To press the left side of all coats and vests, reverse the press-jack
+and garment so that neck, collar waist seam or band is lying to the
+left. Commencing as before, from the center back seam of garment, and
+continue pressing left side, and around to the front edge, which must be
+facing the presser.
+
+Coats, vests, jackets and coats, should be placed on hangers to retain
+their proper shape.
+
+A good iron rest for the table, is made by nailing a smooth horseshoe to
+a block of wood, a trifle larger than the shoe.
+
+When using the under woolen press cloth, cotton sponge cloth and iron,
+lay the under woolen press cloth, and sponge cloth on that part of the
+garment to be pressed, and apply the iron until sponge cloth shows signs
+of drying. Then remove the cloths and iron, and slap with the back of
+the brush that part just pressed, to refreshen same, and brush the part
+pressed, with the thread or nap of the fabric; thus making the garment
+look like new. Go over the entire garment (and all garments) in this
+manner until the whole garment has been pressed.
+
+When trousers have been pressed, place them over a round pole, suspended
+from the ceiling, or fastened to the wall with brackets. A still better
+way is to place them on individual hangers.
+
+Do not give customers garments damp from pressing, place them on hangers
+and allow them to remain for one hour before wearing or delivering.
+
+Do not try to press clothes that are damp from cleaning or otherwise.
+Allow them to thoroughly dry, when they will press more easily, and
+customers better satisfied, by giving them first-rate work.
+
+When a garment has been pressed all over, examine it thoroughly for
+gloss, and where any appears, remove it as explained (in how to press
+hard finished worsteds.)
+
+This process should be followed carefully when pressing all kinds of
+garments.
+
+When pressing, the iron should never be shoved or pushed, as in ironing,
+as before explained; as it is apt to stretch where not required. Only
+heavy materials require heavy pressing or great strength. Whatever the
+material, pressing is work that requires to be done carefully and
+slowly. When pressing seams, allow the iron to touch only the center of
+the seam, then the edges of the seam will not be outlined on the outside
+of the garment. This however, is only intended for light weight goods,
+as when pressing seams in heavy material, it is necessary to press more
+solid.
+
+=How to press hard finished worsteds.= When pressing hard finished
+worsteds, place under woolen press cloth, and sponge cloth over the part
+to be pressed, (wring sponge cloth as nearly dry as possible), and apply
+the iron, not too hot, allowing it to rest until sponge cloth is
+entirely dry. (This is termed by tailors, as dry pressing or glossing).
+Now remove iron, and press cloths and place a damp part of the sponge
+cloth over that part just pressed, to remove the gloss, if any, by
+applying the iron lightly, and slap with the back of the brush while
+steaming. Also brushing the nap of the cloth.
+
+Avoid stretching while pressing especially the edges and collar, unless
+it is required, (and the presser understands where to stretch, and is
+familiar with the fitting qualities of the garment.) When pressing
+around the pockets, have flaps on the outside, and turn pockets inside
+out before cleaning, that all dust and dirt may be removed, then return
+the pockets to their proper place before starting to press.
+
+When a coat or vest is placed on the table or press-jack, to be pressed,
+and one notices fullness along front edges and bottom, press fullness
+away by laying under press cloth and sponge cloth over part to be
+pressed and leave iron until sponge cloth is entirely dry, then remove
+cloths and apply a damp part of the press cloth, and iron again to
+remove gloss as explained before. Always have edge of garments pointing
+toward the presser. This may be learned and accomplished in a short time
+with little practice.
+
+=How to clean and press single and double breasted sack coats, motormen
+and conductors, also fatigue=: Brush thoroughly, and if necessary whip
+with cane, being careful not to break the buttons on the garment. Turn
+all pockets inside out, and have flaps on the outside. Remove all spots;
+special care must be taken to remove grease and dirt from the collar,
+also the fronts, with the cleaning fluid. Place on coat hangers and when
+dry, proceed to press as follows:
+
+Have coat lying on the table or tailor's bench to the right, draw the
+right cuff over the small end of the press-jack which should be pointing
+to the right. Lay the sponge cloths over that part of the garment to be
+pressed, (which you have prepared by wetting in a pail or basin of warm
+water used for that purpose and wrung until almost dry), then apply the
+iron until the sponge cloths shows sign of drying. Then remove the
+sponge cloths and iron, and slap with the back of brush (as has been
+explained.)
+
+Continue this around the right sleeve cuff, and also the left. Then with
+the coat in the same position, reverse the press-jack and place the
+right sleeve, top side up on the large end of the press-jack, being
+careful to have the sleeve smoothed out nicely, then lay sponge cloths
+over and apply the iron, pressing full length and width, up and down the
+sleeve, (being careful to see that no wrinkles are pressed in the
+sleeve.)
+
+Remove the cloths and iron as before, slapping with the back of the
+brush, then brushing the nap to refreshen the cloth.
+
+Turn sleeve over and press under side of sleeve the same.
+
+Press left sleeve in the same manner. Crease sleeves front and back, if
+requested by customer.
+
+Reverse the press-jack and draw right shoulder of coat over the small
+end of the press-jack in a convenient manner, and press around the
+armholes, by laying the sponge cloths on the part to be pressed. Apply
+the iron as before, and then slap with the back of the brush. Now press
+around left shoulder and arm hole in the same manner.
+
+Next place the coat so that the collar points to the right on the large
+end of the press-jack. Lay the sponge cloths on the back of the coat,
+applying the iron as before, and press down back and around right side
+of coat to the front edge; always having the edge of the garment toward
+the presser. Reverse press-jack and coat, then as before, commence
+pressing at the center back seam, and forward to the front edge. This
+completes the left side.
+
+Place the coat on table or tailor's bench, and reverse press-jack; lift
+coat and place collar or press-jack in a convenient way, so that the
+collar and lapel, when pressed, will be creased the same as when worn.
+
+Commence pressing from the center of collar to the right side of lapel,
+being careful not to stretch the edges of lapel or collar. Then from the
+center of collar at the back, press forward on left side as before. Turn
+coat inside out, and smooth lining with cool iron, and with an almost
+dry sponge cloth. This will remove any wrinkles, and leave the lining
+smooth.
+
+Now press the right side of facing and lapel, by laying four-ply of
+wadding on the press-jack, and place right forepart of coat so that the
+buttons face toward the wadding, and press on the wrong side, the
+buttons will sink into the wadding thereby avoiding the breaking of
+same, which is very easily done if great care is not taken. Now remove
+the wadding and press left side on the padded side of press-jack in the
+usual manner. Now turn the coat right side out, place right shoulder in
+a convenient manner on the small end of the press-jack, and if any
+wrinkles appear on top of the right sleeve head, press them out. Do the
+same with the left side.
+
+Look coat over thoroughly for gloss, if any appears, place coat on
+press-jack in a convenient manner and remove as explained.
+
+When pressing coats, be careful to have the flaps on the outside, the
+pockets returned to their proper place inside, before starting to press.
+
+Roll fronts of coats to the inside, so that they will retain their
+proper shape, also to give to them that chesty effect, which is very
+essential, in the pressing of all kinds of coats, and vests. One will
+soon become familiar with the work by a little practice.
+
+Place coats on hangers to dry before wearing or delivering. Sack
+overcoats, rain-coats and Tuxedos, are pressed in the same way.
+
+=How to clean and press cutaway dress, Prince Albert, military,
+clerical, uniforms, footman's liveries, Newmarket, Paddock and Palitot.=
+The above garments are cleaned and pressed the same as other garments,
+but with this difference:--Coats with skirts are pressed from the collar
+or neck to the waist line or seam, then moved up to the waist line or
+seam, and pressed from that to the bottom of skirt, and around to the
+front, having the edge of the garment pointing toward the presser. All
+coats lined with silk are pressed very lightly, especially lapels and
+facings (as the mark of the iron shows easy; and on silks is difficult
+to remove.)
+
+Silk should look fluffy in a garment, and therefore does not require
+much pressing. Great care must be taken when cleaning, pressing, and
+repairing dress suits, Tuxedos, Prince Alberts, and any garment that is
+silk lined. The price to charge for such work may only be figured by the
+amount of silk, and time required to do the work. Silk facings may be
+had by mailing samples to this office, and we will send price list.
+
+=How to clean and press ladies' jackets and coats=: Brush thoroughly,
+and if necessary, whip with cane to remove all dust and dirt. Remove all
+spots with the cleaning fluid, place on hangers, and when dry, press as
+follows: Ladies' jackets and coats are pressed the same as men's, but
+with the following differences: Press around cuffs, sleeves and
+shoulders on the small end of the press-jack, then start at the center
+back seam and press forward to the front edge, having the collar or neck
+pointing to the right. Always have the edge of the garment facing the
+presser. Reverse the press-jack, coat or jacket, and commence pressing
+as before, down the back seam and around left side to front edge. Lay
+sleeves on the press-jack and press as before, being careful to have
+plaits in the right creases and the gatherings in their proper place. Do
+not allow more plaits or wrinkles to form on the top of the sleeves than
+is needed.
+
+=How to clean and press all kinds of skirts for ladies=, Brush
+thoroughly and whip if necessary, turn the skirt inside out, and brush
+dust and dirt, from the seams and bottom. Clean all grease spots, if
+any, with the cleaning fluid, place on hangers, and when dry, press as
+follows: Draw skirt on press-jack with the waist band pointing to the
+left, on the small end of the press-jack; the skirt to be drawn on the
+press-jack to the left. Use the sponge cloths and iron the same as when
+pressing other garments. Press around the top of the skirt and as far
+below as the press-jack will allow. If skirt is plaited, be careful to
+have the plaits lying smooth on the press-jack, either pin or baste
+plaits in their proper creases before starting to press.
+
+When pressing thin skirts, it is not necessary to press very hard, only
+until the steam arises, then slap with the back of the brush to keep
+steam in the goods, also to refreshen the garment. Place on skirt hangers
+to dry before wearing or delivering. Always look for gloss, and if any
+appears, remove as explained.
+
+=How to clean and press single and double breasted vests, clerical, with
+or without collar=: Brush thoroughly and whip with cane, if necessary,
+to remove dust and dirt, being careful not to break the buttons on the
+garment. Turn all pockets inside out to remove all dust and dirt from
+them. Then remove all spots with the cleaning fluid as explained. Place
+on coat hanger, and when dry, press as follows: Place the right forepart
+of the vest smooth on the press-jack, with the edge facing the presser,
+and the neck or the collar pointing to the right. Cover with sponge
+cloths and apply the iron until the cloth shows signs of drying. Remove
+and slap with the back of the brush, then brush the nap of the cloth to
+refreshen and make it look like new, being careful not to stretch the
+opening when pressing the forepart and shoulders.
+
+When pressing the foreparts of vests, start at the side seams, and press
+forward to the front edge. Now reverse the press-jack and vest and press
+left side in the same manner, around the shoulders and arm holes. Now
+smooth the wrinkles from the back, starting from the center and
+pressing forward to the right side seam; then press the left side in the
+same manner. This removes the wrinkles, and may be done with almost dry
+sponge cloth and medium warm iron.
+
+All vests are pressed in the same way, with the exception of fancy or
+white vests. With these use a plain white cotton cloth, and wet sponge
+with clean water.
+
+Fancy wool vests should be dry cleaned before pressing.
+
+Wash vests require a little thin boiled starch to give body to goods,
+then iron when almost dry. Turn all pockets inside out before starting
+to press. The pockets are pressed first, then returned to their proper
+place, thereby keeping the mouth of the pocket neat and even. Continue
+the ironing until the vest is completed. With a little practice, one
+will soon become familiar with the work. Always being careful not to
+stretch the opening. Rather shrink in, by pressing in a half circle from
+left to right toward the front edge.
+
+When pressing vests examine the pockets and see if there is a chamois
+watch pocket, if there is sew or fasten a piece of cloth on the outside
+of vest pocket as a reminder not to press over the pocket; if you did it
+would spoil the chamois, and a new pocket would have to be put in for
+the customer.
+
+=How to clean and press trousers=: Brush thoroughly from the right side,
+and whip, if necessary, then turn them inside out. Also the pockets. See
+that all dust and dirt is thoroughly removed, also lint from the seams.
+Then turn right side out, and remove all dirt and grease spots with the
+cleaning fluid as explained. Place on hangers, and when dry, proceed to
+press as follows: Place trousers flat on a covered table with the knees
+up (trousers being turned inside out) wet bags at knee with sponge.
+Apply the iron, not too hot and press in a circle to the center, to
+remove and shrink away the bag; now do the same with the left leg. Turn
+trousers right side out, and press around bottoms, same as in pressing
+the cuffs on coats. Reverse press-jack and trousers, and press around
+tops with sponge cloths and iron as far down as seat line or end of fly,
+starting from the right side of fly and pressing around to the left fly.
+Remove the press-jack and lay trousers flat on the table or bench that
+has been covered with felt or cloth (melton, kersey or thibet). Place
+creases at the bottom together with the left hand, and with the right
+hand place the two top suspender buttons together, then lay them flat on
+the bench or lengthwise of the table. Then turn the left leg back as far
+as the seat line, and straighten the right leg out smooth on the table.
+Cover with the sponge cloths and apply the iron, pressing full length of
+leg, until cloths shows sign of drying, pressing the front and back
+creases sharp. Then remove the iron and sponge cloths, then slap with
+the back of the brush to refreshen and brighten the cloth or garment.
+Now turn the leg over and press other side in the same manner; then turn
+leg over to inside as at first and bring the left leg down to meet the
+right bottom. Turn trousers over, and then turn the right leg back, and
+proceed to press the left inside leg the same as right. Turn left leg
+over and press outside. Now turn left leg over to inside as at first,
+bringing the right leg down to meet the left at the bottom, then have
+both legs lying perfectly even on top of each other. Press them together
+from fly or seat line, down to the bottom. Turn trousers over, and press
+other side in the same manner, using the back of brush for slapping and
+face to brush nap of cloth. Then place the press-jack on the table
+again, with the small end pointing to the right, then draw the right
+bottom of the leg over the small end of press-jack, and press crease out
+through the turn up. Do this at the front and back about two inches from
+the bottom. Now press the bottom of left leg the same way.
+
+Some customers do not want this crease taken out, then of course it is
+to be left in. But custom-made trousers are usually not pressed through
+the turn up.
+
+This completes the pressing of trousers, place on hangers before wearing
+or delivering. By practice, one may soon become an expert.
+
+Broadfalls are pressed in the same way. Examine for gloss, and if any,
+remove as explained.
+
+
+
+
+LESSON VI.
+
+SELECTION OF MATERIAL.
+
+
+Amount required, for suits, vests, trousers, overcoats, dress suits and
+Prince Albert suits, Tuxedos, Paddock, Paletot; also ladies' waists,
+jackets (long and short), and skirts. The amount of material required to
+reline coats, vests, and top of trousers; ladies' coats and jackets;
+velvet collars and silk facings.
+
+Amount of goods required for the following garments:
+
+     =Sack Suits=--36 to 42 inches breast measure, 31/2 yards, 54
+     inches wide.
+
+     =Cutaway or Morning Suit=--36 to 42 inches breast measure, 31/2
+     yards, 54 inches wide.
+
+     =Prince Albert Suit=--36 to 42 inches breast measure, 33/4 yards,
+     54 inches wide.
+
+     =Tuxedo Suit=--36 to 42 inches breast measure, 31/2 yards, 54
+     inches wide.
+
+     =Dress Suit=--36 to 42 inches breast measure, 31/2 yards, 54
+     inches wide.
+
+     =Sack Overcoat=--36 to 42 inches breast measure, 42 inches long,
+     23/4 yards, 54 inches wide.
+
+     =Trousers=--30 to 42 inches waist measure, 36 to 42 seat measure,
+     301/2 to 34 inside leg measure, 11/2 yards.
+
+     =Vests=--36 to 42 inches breast measure, 1 yard, 54 inches wide.
+
+     =Paddock or Palitot=--36 to 42 inches breast measure, 4 yards, 54
+     inches wide.
+
+     =Ladies' Shirt Waist=--30 to 40 inches bust measure, 31/2 yards,
+     27 inches wide.
+
+     =Ladies' Jackets and Coats (short)=--30 to 40 inches bust measure,
+     21/2 yards, 54 inches wide.
+
+     =Ladies' Jackets and Coats (long)=--30 to 40 inches bust measure,
+     41/2 yards, 54 inches wide.
+
+     =Ladies' Skirts=--20 to 42 inches waist measure, 40 to 44 inches
+     long, 41/2 yards, 54 inches wide.
+
+Amount of goods required to reline the following garments:
+
+     =Sack or Tuxedo Coat=--2 yards, 32 inch or 11/2 yards, 54 inches
+     wide. Serge, Alpaca, Italian cloth, or silk, to match. 1 yard fancy
+     sateen sleeve lining.
+
+     =Overcoats=--42 inches long, 21/2 yards, 32 inches wide or 2
+     yards, 54 inches wide. Serge, Italian cloth, or Circassian. 11/2
+     yards satin sleeve lining, 20 inches wide. Or 1 yard, 40 inch
+     Lusterene sleeve lining.
+
+     =Overcoats, Silk or Satin Lined Throughout=--Require from 4 to 5
+     yards.
+
+     =Vests=--3/4 yard, 32 or 54 inches wide. Serge, Alpaca, Italian
+     cloth or silk, for outside back. 1 yard 20 inch fancy sateen, for
+     inside body lining.
+
+     =Trousers=--1/2 yard 20 inch colored sateen, for waist band lining.
+
+     =Dress Coats=--Prince Alberts, 3 yards 30 inch silk, for the
+     former, and 4 yards, for the latter.
+
+     =Tuxedo Facing=--1 yard heavy corded or fancy weave silk.
+
+     =Dress or Prince Albert (fancy)=--7/8 yard heavy corded or fancy
+     weave silk.
+
+     =Velvet Collars for Overcoats=--vary in width from 41/2 to 6
+     inches wide on the bias. This may be determined when velvet collar
+     is ripped off by measuring width.
+
+When new buttons are required, replace with as near as possible to the
+original.
+
+When using silk, and buttonhole twist, match cloth as near as can be
+had.
+
+
+
+
+LESSON VII.
+
+CARE OF CLOTHES.
+
+
+Under this lesson is explained the care of clothes. How to keep them
+looking fresh and clean. How to be well dressed.
+
+=Care of clothes=: Cleaning, brushing, repairing and pressing frequently
+is a step in the right channel, for a man's appearance depends largely
+upon the care he takes of his clothes. Clothes should be brushed often
+especially after being worn in the dust and dirt, and should be hung up
+in a clean place where they will be out of the dust. Coats and vest
+should always be placed on coat hangers together to retain their shape,
+and to be ready for wear when wanted. The loop at the back of the coat
+collar, should never be used to hang coats up by but for a few minutes,
+as the weight of garments will pull the collar out of shape.
+
+Trousers after being brushed thoroughly, should be turned inside out,
+and placed on hangers, by doing this you are reversing the folds and
+wrinkles that have formed while wearing, thereby allowing the cloth to
+fall back into place. It is impossible to prevent trousers bagging at
+the knees, but may be prevented in this way. Fasten a piece of silk to
+the forepart of trousers on the inside to both leg seams across top and
+bottom of silk, seven inches above and ten inches below the knee, being
+careful when sewing not to let the stitches show through on the out
+side. Another suggestion and a good one, is to buy two pairs trousers
+with each suit (except a dress suit, then it is not necessary) and wear
+them alternately, two days at a time, and have them pressed each time
+you change, and turned inside out each night.
+
+It is a good idea to have a row of hooks at the top of one's wardrobe
+from which to hang these forms, thereby saving much space especially in
+the smaller houses. Care should be taken to draw trousers up well when
+wearing, so that they will set properly. When trousers are worn without
+suspenders, they must be cut shorter waisted, shorter in the legs and
+closer around the waist. If one wears suspenders it is a luxury to have
+a pair for each pair of trousers. Then when one adjustment is made saves
+any further bother.
+
+Brushing clothes is a very simple but necessary operation, a fact which
+few people thoroughly appreciate. Fine clothes require brushing lightly
+with a soft brush, except when mud is to be removed, then a stiff brush
+should be used, after garment has been lightly beaten to loosen the
+dirt. Never use a whisk broom to brush clothes as they injure the fibre
+of the cloth. When brushing lay the coat on a table, and brush in the
+direction of the thread or nap of the fabric.
+
+A well made, well fitting garment should not be thrown away when
+slightly worn, but should be repaired, cleaned and pressed. Many times
+lasting as long after being repaired as at first. Unless absolutely
+necessary never patch, when darning will answer the purpose better. If
+the garment is not too badly worn baste a piece of cloth, the same as
+the material in the garment (or as near as possible) under the weakened
+part and darn to this piece. One may back stitch with silk to match the
+cloth, or make a small running stitch. When the entire part has been
+thoroughly darned, turn the garment inside out and herringbone all
+around the piece of cloth (or patch to the inside) being careful not to
+allow stitches to show through on the outside. Press and they are ready
+for wear. This is especially good when repairing the seat of trousers.
+
+Tape is invaluable in repairing, as it may be used to strengthen weak
+places and where buttons are to be sewed, acting as a stay, also saving
+time of turning the edges of the cloth in, and is less clumsy.
+
+Ruskin says, "Clothes carefully cared for, and rightly worn, show a
+balance of mind and respect."
+
+The freshness of a garment depends upon the care taken of it, and only
+requires a few minutes each time they are taken off; they should be
+carefully brushed, to remove all dust and dirt, removing all spots,
+buttons sewed on and replaced when worn, new braid on the bottoms of
+skirts, cleaning and pressing, making little necessary alterations. All
+these little duties given proper attention, will keep a wardrobe fresh
+and in good order.
+
+It is not always the wear on the clothes, that tell so sadly upon them.
+It is the care that they receive. A few garments, well made and properly
+fitted, and good care taken of them, is far more preferable than a
+number of inferior quality and make.
+
+When clothing is laid away for another season, they should first be
+thoroughly brushed, repaired, cleaned and pressed, to be ready for wear
+when needed. If placed in bags or boxes, the moth preventative should be
+sprinkled over freely. Tailors' boxes are very good to place garments
+in, that are not in use, and should be labeled on the outside as to the
+contents.
+
+Fold all articles on the seams, if possible, being careful when folding
+sleeves and collars. Coat lapels should be turned to lie flat; collars
+turned up, and the coat folded in the center back seam, sleeves lying
+together and on top of each other. Then fold in half crosswise, and
+place in the box.
+
+If fancy waists and coats are put in drawers, fill the sleeves with
+tissue paper. This will prevent wrinkling.
+
+To be well dressed, one's clothes must be of good material and fit well.
+The length of waist, and full length should be in proportion to the
+wearer, or as near fashion as good taste will permit. Sleeve the right
+length, and hang properly, and to come to the root of the thumb. The
+collar must fit close around the neck, the lapels should be neat and
+even, the opening in front should close without bulging when buttoned,
+and should have no cross wrinkles under the back of arms, and no
+wrinkles below the collar. The whole appearance of the garment must be
+easy, the chest should be of the athletic style (chesty), while the
+waist should be close fitting and flat (not tight). The arm hole should
+not be too deep so that the coat will remain in its proper position
+while sitting as when standing. The buttonholes must be neat, and the
+buttons sewed on good and strong with neck.
+
+The overcoat should be easy, not clumsy, and of fashionable length,
+sleeves to cover the under coat, and to fit close around the neck
+(sleeves of a rain coat may be longer than those of an ordinary
+overcoat), and must be the same length at front and back at bottom.
+
+A vest should fit easy to allow the body to slip up and down, whether
+sitting or stooping, more especially the former.
+
+A great many people make the mistake by having their vests made snug.
+One will never get a good fitting vest in this way. A vest should come
+up close around the collar, and high enough, so that it will not crawl
+under the linen collar, this may be avoided by having a good tailor make
+one's clothes.
+
+Trousers should be the proper length, and of ample size over the hips,
+knee, and to fall gracefully over the shoe at the bottom, (some wear
+them very short with cuff or French bottoms, this is a style for college
+towns, and is not universal.) The waist should be the proper height and
+size around, (for trousers worn without suspenders, the waist must fit
+closer and cut shorter waisted). Stout men do not want their trousers
+very long waisted and up under their arms, therefore great care must be
+taken when selecting, cutting and making stout men's trousers. When
+trying on a pair of trousers, or in fact any garment, stand before the
+mirror in one's natural position, do not twist and turn, and cause
+wrinkles to form all over the garment, and when looking at the trousers,
+look at them in the mirror; do not look down upon them as many do, and
+often condemn a good fitting pair of trousers, because by stooping and
+looking down, wrinkles appear that when standing natural, hang smooth
+and straight.
+
+
+
+
+LESSON VIII.
+
+FOLDING CLOTHES.
+
+
+How to fold coats, vests, trousers, ladies' jackets, coats and skirts.
+How to place each garment in boxes for storing, delivering, shipping,
+the marking names and addresses on same.
+
+How to fold all kinds of coats, for delivery, traveling, storing, or
+shipping. Turn sleeves back to the collar, so that the folds come at the
+bend of the elbow, now turn the lapels and fronts back over the folded
+sleeves, then fold the skirts over and up level with the collar, so that
+the crease will fold about the center of the garment, then double
+one-half over the other so that the folds come in the center back seam.
+
+=To fold vests=: Place two foreparts together right side out, having the
+edges and side seams even and on top of each other, then fold back over
+fronts of vest so that back seam lays perpendicular with the front edge,
+straighten wrinkles out of shoulder. Then fold neck, or collar down
+level with the bottom, so that the crease will fold about the center of
+the garment, or bottom of arm hole.
+
+=To fold trousers=: Place two top suspender buttons together and front
+creases at bottoms even and on top of each other up and down the leg,
+lay smooth on the table, then fold backs over on fronts to meet front
+creases and taper to nothing, to about six inches above the knee, then
+fold legs, bringing the bottoms up level with the top of trousers, so
+that bend will come about the knee or half the entire length of
+trousers. Then place in box for delivery. If, however, trousers are to
+be placed in a paper package for delivery, or to be folded small for
+packing, the following is an easy method, when backs are folded over to
+meet the front creases, and legs are lying smooth on the table, divide
+the entire length of the trousers in three parts making two folds, one
+three inches below the seat line or fork, the other about fifteen inches
+from the bottom, place in paper to deliver.
+
+When a suit is to be placed in a box for delivery, lay trousers in
+first, (folded as first explained), the vest next and the coat last,
+place cover on box, and wrap with heavy cord to hold top and bottom
+together, also for convenience when carrying.
+
+Ladies' jackets and coats are folded the same as men's, either short or
+long.
+
+Ladies' skirts are folded in this manner, if plain, take front of waist
+band in the right hand, and with the left find center front of skirt at
+bottom, lay on table and fold front over to meet the center back seam of
+skirt, then fold double and place in box or package, for delivery. When
+skirt is plaited see that the plaits lay in the proper creases, and fold
+as explained above, being careful not to make too small a package so as
+not to crush.
+
+The firm name should be printed on the cover of the box together with
+these words, "Please unpack and place on hangers as soon as received."
+This prevents clothes from wrinkling badly. The customer's name and
+address should be written plainly in the space left for that purpose on
+the cover of the box.
+
+When sending a package by express or other carrying companies, it is
+best to mark the value of the contents of the package on the cover.
+
+
+
+
+LESSON IX.
+
+TESTING WOOLEN CLOTH AND SILK.
+
+
+=Testing woolen cloth and silk=: The great value of wool as a fibre,
+lies in the fact that it is strong, elastic, soft and very susceptible
+to dye stuffs, and being woven, furnishes a great number of air spaces,
+thereby rendering clothing made from it very warm and light.
+
+Wool may be dissolved completely by a warm solution of caustic soda.
+
+Cloth may be tested by unravelling a corner of a piece of cloth,
+lighting it with a match. If the flame runs along, and goes out, leaving
+a brown ash, and is smooth when rubbed between the thumb and finger, it
+contains cotton. If it burns and curls up into a ball at the end, and
+goes out, and the ashes black like charcoal, and is gritty when rubbed
+between the thumb and finger, it is a pretty sure indication, that it is
+all wool.
+
+The strength of a piece of cloth, may be tested by a thread removed from
+the goods, by holding one end with the right hand, and the other with
+the left. Pull, and if it breaks off short, it is not a strong piece of
+goods, and would not wear well; but if it pulls out long and stringy,
+and upon examination one finds the fiber from one to two inches long,
+this may be considered a good piece of goods, and would wear well.
+
+Silk may be tested by unravelling an end, and burning the threads. If
+the ash is brown and is smooth when rubbed between the thumb and
+finger, this would not be considered pure dye silk. If, however, when
+lighted, it curls up into a ball at the end, and goes out, and the ash
+black and when rubbed between the thumb and finger, and is gritty like
+charcoal, one may feel sure that it is pure dye stuff and will give
+excellent wear and will not crack.
+
+
+
+
+LESSON X.
+
+PRICE LIST FOR CLEANING AND PRESSING. REPAIRING AND RELINING EXTRA.
+
+
+Price list for cleaning and pressing the following garments. Repairing
+and relining =extra=:
+
+     Business Suits, Tuxedos Suits, Dress Suits, Overcoats, Ladies'
+     Coats and Jackets, $1.00 and upwards.
+
+     Single Vests and Trousers, 25c. each and upward.
+
+     Ladies' Skirts, 75 cents and upward.
+
+     Coats, all kinds, steam or dry cleaned, $1.00 extra.
+
+     Ladies' Coats, Jackets and Skirts, steam or dry cleaned $1.00
+     extra.
+
+     Vests and Trousers, 50 cents extra.
+
+     Overcoats, all kinds, steam or dry cleaned, $1.00 to $2.00 extra.
+
+     Relining Coats, $3.00 and upward; Vests, $1.25 and upward.
+
+     New Waist Band Lining for Trousers, 75c. and upward.
+
+     New Velvet Collars, $1.50 and upward.
+
+     Single Velvet Collars to buy, cost from 50 cents upward.
+
+     New Silk Facings, $3.00 and upward per yard.
+
+     Body Lining costs from 50 cents upward per yard.
+
+     Sateen Sleeve and Vest Lining costs from 25 cents upward per
+     yard.
+
+     Silk and Satin Linings cost from $2.00 and upward per yard.
+
+     Velvet by the yard costs from $3.00 upward.
+
+Workmen are usually paid from 20 cents to 30 cents per hour. Customers
+are usually charged 50 cents per hour for time required to do the work.
+All work done must be figured by the time required to do the work.
+
+
+
+
+LESSON XI.
+
+HOW TO DRESS AND WHAT TO WEAR.
+
+
+=How to dress well.= The first thought to consider in supplying our
+wardrobe, is the material. Let it be of good quality. Cheap stuff is
+never good unless it is good quality at a low price.
+
+One good suit of clothes, or dress, gives better satisfaction (in
+lasting qualities, appearance and general makeup) than two suits at the
+same price.
+
+A well selected piece of goods, tailored by a reliable tailor, always
+looks well, and may be kept repaired, cleaned and pressed into shape
+occasionally, a fact that few men properly understand. While the low
+priced suit never has the look of that of a well fitted tailored suit,
+and cannot be kept looking as neat.
+
+Made to order garments are always fitted and made better (if by a
+reliable maker). In this way, one has the privilege of trying on and be
+fitted; then when a perfect pattern has been made for you, your future
+garments may be made from that pattern (changing the style of course,
+but keeping the fitting points the same as the pattern.)
+
+Men and women have their individual peculiarities, such as one shoulder
+low, or one may be sloping shouldered, another square, erect and
+stooping, etc. All these different variations must be taken into
+consideration when making custom made garments (or garments made to
+one's individual measurements), and all well dressed men and women
+should have their garments made to order. They are more easily cleaned,
+pressed and repaired, for their building and make up has been studied
+and put together by skilled mechanics.
+
+Men of limited capital who do not wish to spend much money on dress,
+should wear dark materials for suitings. Dark morning suits may be worn
+on many occasions when a light suit would be bad taste. Fashion should
+be followed, but avoid extremes. The wrinkles and bags at the knees
+should be pressed out frequently. Close woven cloth keeps its shape in
+garments better. The vest should always be buttoned. Remove buttons on
+all garments as soon as they show sign of wearing, and replace with new.
+
+Skirted coats and vests should be made to fit closely around the waist,
+and loose over the chest to give the wearer that athletic appearance.
+This tends to make the wearer stand straighter.
+
+On the other hand, if a coat or vest is tight over the chest, it tends
+to make the wearer stoop. The carriage of men who do not wear
+suspenders, is generally better than those who wear them.
+
+When a single breasted coat or vest is too tight across the chest, in
+many cases it is beyond remedy, as the tailor cannot add anything to the
+front after the garment is completed.
+
+Double breasted coats and vests, however, are different, on these; the
+buttons may be moved a trifle toward the front edge, thereby giving more
+breathing room over the chest, which is very much needed, and adds to
+the appearance of the garment.
+
+Single breasted sack overcoats, with fly front, are most desirable from
+every point of view. The man of taste and refinement always selects dark,
+quiet colors for his overcoats.
+
+Men of taste who carry canes, select those that are strong, plain, light
+and small. Large canes are in very bad taste for young men.
+
+A white necktie should never be worn except with a full dress suit, save
+by clergymen, and a few elderly men who never wear any other color.
+
+A high silk hat should not be worn with a sack suit. A low hat should
+not be worn with a double breasted frock or Prince Albert.
+
+Straw hats should not be worn, only with light summer suits. Dark suits
+are preferred on Sundays, especially in town, and light suits should
+never be worn to church anywhere.
+
+Double breasted frock coats should be made of black or grey materials.
+
+At small informal gatherings, most men consider themselves sufficiently
+dressed when they wear black frock coats and dark trousers. It is not
+necessary for men to wear dress suits where ladies are required to be in
+full dress. At public entertainments, restaurants and cafes, for
+example, where the ladies wear their bonnets, the man who wears a black
+frock coat, dark trousers, and light kid gloves, is better dressed;
+because more appropriately, than he, who wears a full dress suit.
+
+'Tis true, the practice of wearing such a suit occasions additional
+expense, as otherwise a business suit, or walking suit, and a dress suit
+may be made to serve all occasions.
+
+When at home, every man goes in for comfort, however it will be well to
+remember that it is not polite to appear at the table, whether they are
+strangers or not, or will show himself to any one with whom he is not on
+a familiar footing, in his shirt sleeves.
+
+A gentleman for an evening visit, should always be in evening dress.
+Dress coat, vest and trousers, white linen and white cravat (a black
+cravat is permissible, but not in full dress.)
+
+For a dinner party, ball or opera, a man must wear a white cravat. Watch
+fob is very fashionable.
+
+On Sunday afternoons and evening at home, gentlemen are permitted to
+wear frock coats, and to regard the day as an "off" one, unless invited
+to a grand dinner, then you must wear the dress suit.
+
+Men are always ungloved, except when riding or driving.
+
+Colored shirts and flannel shirts are worn in the morning, often until
+the dinner hour in the summer, and it is proper to go to an informal
+breakfast in the informal dress of the tennis ground.
+
+For a formal luncheon, a man must dress himself in black frock coat, a
+colored necktie, and grey or drab stripe trousers, and white shirt.
+
+For lawn tennis,--flannel shirts, rough coats, knickerbockers, long
+grey, woolen stockings, and string shoes.
+
+Simplicity, neatness, and fitness mark the gentleman.
+
+Good clothes, manners, breeding, and education, admit one to the better
+circles of society. It is not sufficient to do as others do, but we must
+dress as they do when we go out in the world.
+
+He is best dressed, whose dress attracts least attention, and in order
+to attract attention, one's dress must be seasonable, appropriate, and
+conform to the prevailing fashion, without going to extreme, and to
+appear comfortable.
+
+=Evening Dress=:--For all formal events after six o'clock, balls, formal
+dinners, opera and theater, receptions and weddings.
+
+     Overcoat--Chesterfield, Inverness, or Skirted.
+
+     Coat--Evening dress coat.
+
+     Waistcoat--White or black, single or double breasted. Ribbed silk,
+     or flowered patterns of satin and silk.
+
+     Trousers--To match coat, outside seam trimmed with silk braid,
+     fitting a trifle closer over the hips than for ordinary wear,
+     medium width knees and bottoms.
+
+     Shirts and Cuffs--Plain white, ruffled or plaited bosoms, corded
+     stripes, attached cuffs, domestic finish.
+
+     Collars--Standing, Poke or lap front.
+
+     Neckwear--White corded stripe or lawn, string with broad round
+     ends.
+
+     Gloves--White or Pearl, Grey glace, one button, self-stitched.
+
+     Jewelry--Plain or Moonstone studs, and links.
+
+     Hat--Silk, cloth band or opera for theater.
+
+     Shoes--Varnished calfskin or patent leather button tops or patent
+     leather ties for balls.
+
+     Style--Peaked broad lapels, rolling to waist with two buttons on
+     each side, natural shoulders, chesty effect.
+
+     Material--Undressed worsted, English twill or shadow-stripe, in
+     black or dark blue.
+
+=Informal=:--Evening dress, for all informal occasions, club, stag, and
+at home dinners, theaters and informal dinners.
+
+     Coat--Evening jacket, Tuxedo.
+
+     Waist coat--To match coat, dove grey; black corded silk for winter,
+     white for summer, single or double breasted, opening cut "V"
+     shaped.
+
+     Trousers--To match coat.
+
+     Shirts--Plaited, or may be of soft or negligee style. Attached
+     cuffs, domestic finish.
+
+     Collars--High band, fold or wing.
+
+     Neckwear--String, fancy figured, black or grey ground with black
+     figures, or to match material in waist coat, knot drawn tight, and
+     wide ends.
+
+     Gloves--Grey, Suede, or tan.
+
+     Jewelry--To match buttons of waist coat, dull chased gold stud,
+     links, watch fob and seal.
+
+     Hat--Soft or derby.
+
+     Shoes--Patent or enamel leather, button tops, or ties.
+
+     Style--Chesty effect, shoulders trifle wider than natural, shawl
+     collar or peaked lapels rolling low and fronts well cut away below
+     bottom button.
+
+     Material--Plain or striped unfinished worsted, black, dark, blue or
+     Oxford.
+
+=Informal Day Dress=:--For ordinary occasions, before six o'clock and
+Sundays.
+
+     Overcoat--Chesterfield.
+
+     Coat--Morning or Cutaway.
+
+     Waist coat--To match coat, single or double breasted, or quiet
+     pattern of fancy vestings.
+
+     Trousers--Dark narrow grey or light stripe worsted or cassimere.
+
+     Shirts and Cuffs--Plain white, attached cuffs.
+
+     Collar--Poke lap front or wing.
+
+     Neckwear--Ascot, once over or four-in-hand in somber effects.
+
+     Gloves--Tan or grey.
+
+     Jewelry--Gold links and studs, scarfpin, with watch guard.
+
+     Hat--High silk.
+
+     Shoes--Varnished calfskin, patent leather, button tops and light
+     colored spats.
+
+     Style--Chesty, effect, oval lapels, with concave edge, shoulders
+     trifle wider than natural, and wadding on extreme points, to give
+     square effect; roll low.
+
+     Material--Unfinished worsted, diagonal or plain Vicuna.
+
+=Day Dress=:--For all occasions, before six o'clock; afternoon calls,
+church, day weddings, receptions, and matinees.
+
+     Overcoat--Chesterfield.
+
+     Coat--Morning frock, for informal, double breasted frock or Prince
+     Albert for formal occasions.
+
+     Waist Coat--Double or single breasted, to match the coat, or quiet
+     fancy vesting, avoiding extremes.
+
+     Trousers--Dark narrow stripe worsted, moderately close fitting with
+     slight hip fullness.
+
+     Shirt and Cuffs--Plain white, round or square cornered, attached
+     cuffs.
+
+     Collar--Poke, lap front or wing.
+
+     Neckwear--Ascot, black or white effect, once over, white or Pearl.
+
+     Gloves--Brown, light tan, self-figured, closed with one button.
+
+     Jewelry--Gold links, and studs, gold watch guard, and scarfpin.
+
+     Hat--High silk, cloth band.
+
+     Shoes--Varnished calfskin, or patent leather, button top with light
+     colored spats.
+
+     Style--Chesty effect, oval lapels, with small rounded corners, roll
+     low, shoulders trifle wider than natural, raising extreme points
+     with wadding.
+
+     Material--Unfinished worsted, or diagonal, in black or Oxford.
+
+=Morning and Business Dress=:--For general wear during business hours.
+
+     Overcoat--Chesterfield, Newmarket, Covert or top coat.
+
+     Coat--Sack or morning.
+
+     Waist Coat--Single breasted, with or without a collar, to match
+     coat or fancy vesting.
+
+     Trousers--To match coat, or striped worsted or cassimere with
+     morning coat.
+
+     Shirts and Cuffs--White or colored shirt, stiff or soft bosom,
+     attached cuffs.
+
+     Collars--Wing or high band turndown.
+
+     Neckwear--Once over, Ascot, four-in-hand or Imperial.
+
+     Gloves--Tan or grey.
+
+     Jewelry--Gold links and studs, scarfpin and watch guard.
+
+     Hats--Derby or Alpine with sacks, high silk or derby with morning
+     coat.
+
+     Shoes--Calfskin, high or low cut.
+
+     Style--Single or double breasted for sacks, chesty athletic
+     effect, two or three buttons, morning or English walking coat with
+     flaps on side.
+
+     Material--Fancy suitings for sacks. Plain or fancy weave for
+     morning coats. Blue, brown or grey mixtures for sacks; grey or
+     Oxford for morning dress.
+
+=Seashore and Lounging Dress=:--For summer wear only.
+
+     Coat--Norfolk or lounge coat.
+
+     Belt--Pig or monkey skin.
+
+     Trousers--To match coat or fancy stripe flannel.
+
+     Shirts--Colored negligee, cuffs attached, Madras or Oxford.
+
+     Collar--Fold collar.
+
+     Neckwear--Four-in-hand, or soft silk tie.
+
+     Jewelry--Scarfpin, gold links, stud buttons.
+
+     Hats--Straw, Alpine or golf cap.
+
+     Shoes--Low shoes of calfskin.
+
+     Style--Norfolk coat, skeleton lined, single or double breasted
+     sack.
+
+     Material--Tropical worsted or Tweed, flannel Shetland or homespun.
+     Brown, grey and mixtures.
+
+=Outing Dress=:--For golf and other sports:
+
+     Overcoats--Peajacket, short Covert or top coat.
+
+     Coat--Norfolk jacket or lounge coat.
+
+     Waist Coat--Double breasted, with or without collar, to match coat,
+     flannel or fancy knit.
+
+     Trousers--Knickerbockers, for fall and winter, striped flannel,
+     Tweed or homespun matching coat for spring and summer.
+
+     Shirts--Colored negligee, cuffs attached, Madras or Oxford sweater.
+
+     Collar--Soft fold, self-collar or stock.
+
+     Neckwear--Tie or stock.
+
+     Gloves--Tan or chamois, wool knit, heavy golfing gloves.
+
+     Jewelry--Scarfpin, links, with watch guard.
+
+     Hat--Soft felt or cap.
+
+     Shoes--Calf or russet.
+
+     Style--Norfolk with box plaits, yoke and belt or plain sack, chesty
+     effect.
+
+     Material--Tweeds, flannel, or homespun, brown, grey and mixtures.
+
+=Driving or Motoring Dress=:
+
+     Overcoat--Burberry of wax waterproof cloth, or duster of linen or
+     rubber silk.
+
+     Coat--Norfolk or double breasted sack.
+
+     Waist Coat--Matching coat, flannel or fancy knit.
+
+     Trousers--Knickerbockers or trousers of flannel, Tweed or homespun,
+     matching coat; breeches and leggings for motoring.
+
+     Shirts--Fancy flannel. Cheviot or Madras sweater, soft.
+
+     Collar--Soft fold self-collar or stock.
+
+     Neckwear--Stock or tie.
+
+     Gloves--Tan or chamois, soft cape gauntlets, tan or black for the
+     motor car.
+
+     Jewelry--Links, scarfpin and watch guard.
+
+     Hat--Soft felt or cap, French chauffeur cap with leather visor for
+     motoring.
+
+     Shoes--Calfskin or russet with leggins for automobiling.
+
+     Style--Semi-Norfolk jacket of wax (waterproof) cloth.
+
+     Material--Tweed, flannel or homespun, Oxford, grey or tan.
+
+=Women's Dress=:
+
+Formal dress, for all occasions after six o'clock--weddings, receptions,
+formal dinners, theater and balls, high neck, long skirt, hat, coat, and
+gloves, and evening slippers.
+
+For morning and afternoon wear, the tailor made suit with short skirt;
+for afternoon, the long skirt, hat, high dress walking boot, patent
+leather, lace or button with cloth tops.
+
+For outing wear, the coat sweater for skating, golfing, and hockey.
+
+For misses' and children's dresses made of the same material, short
+skirts; the coats may cover the dress, or may be three-quarters or
+seven-eighths long, may be single or double breasted, to button high
+around the neck or roll low.
+
+For house wear, the plain tailored shirt waist suit in becoming colors
+are good form.
+
+For school and street wear, the short skirt, coat three-quarters or
+seven-eighths long and made of rough material is the more stylish, and
+is made in a variety of styles.
+
+Gloves for evening wear, Suede, Mousquetaire, elbow and above; length
+arranging in buttons from eight to twenty-four. In tan, mode, slate,
+pearl, lavender, yellow, black, and white.
+
+Walking gloves, Havana, Smyrna, tan, oak and mahogany, with two or three
+buttons, clasps.
+
+Auto gauntlets, buck and cape skin gauntlets in slate, oak and black.
+
+For automobiling, double and single breasted long loose coats, made in a
+variety of styles, water and dust proof, plain or fancy trimmed, with
+wind cuffs inside of sleeves, with velvet collars and cuffs.
+
+Material used are rubber faced goods, Mohairs, Chambrays, Satins,
+Oxfords and Tan plaids, changeable silks and Crepe de Chines.
+
+When selecting goods for dresses or jackets, bear in mind that stripes
+lengthen, plaids, checks and light materials broaden, and enlarge the
+person's appearance.
+
+=Boys' and youths' clothing from four to eighteen.= The materials used
+for boys' suits, include all the staple cloths, such as unfinished
+worsteds in stripes and plaids, tweeds, dark and blue serge, plain
+cheviots, and Scotch mixtures, homespun and corduroy.
+
+The sailor suit is more suitable for the younger boy, and may be made of
+various materials, such as white, blue, and brown serge or cheviot, and
+trimmed with braid in a variety of styles, as occasion require and
+surroundings permit.
+
+The most favorite style for the boy who has outgrown the sailor suit, is
+the Norfolk coat, single or double breasted, with double or single box
+plaits, made with or without straight or pointed yoke.
+
+The next in popularity, comes the double or single breasted sack coat;
+with this and the above, bloomers may be worn, finished at the knee with
+a buckled band.
+
+The straight trousers are much worn and preferred by some boys, and are
+considered more dressy when worn with a plaited skirt bosom with
+attached cuffs, pointed Eaton collar, and a narrow four-in-hand scarf
+and patent or dull leather shoes.
+
+For every day wear, the plain negligee shirt with yoke back and attached
+cuffs are worn. With this style shirt, the younger boys from eight to
+twelve, wear the stiff linen or soft white pique, Eaton collar with
+round or square corners, or a turn down collar of which the latter is
+most popular.
+
+The Windsor bow or the narrow four-in-hand scarf may be worn with the
+Eaton collar.
+
+For outing, a soft flannel negligee style made perfectly plain, with
+straight attached or the new turn back cuffs, a soft turn down collar
+attached to the shirt is preferred by some, while others wear the
+separate linen collar, and have the neck band finished plain. This style
+of white turndown collar may be worn on all occasions until the age of
+eighteen, at which time, he may wear almost any style on the maturer
+man, providing his size will permit.
+
+The plaited shirt bosom is the more dressy style, and may be of white or
+light colors, with stripes and figures or in solid colors. Young boys do
+not wear attached cuffs until they are twelve years old, and only then
+if full grown.
+
+For small parties, dancing classes or weddings, a boy under sixteen may
+wear a dark blue serge double breasted sack suit or the Norfolk style
+with bloomers or straight trousers.
+
+A plain white or finely striped white plaited shirt with turn-over
+collar and dark narrow four-in-hand scarf is in good taste with dull
+leather or patent leather Oxfords.
+
+=Boys' overgarments=:--For boys up to twelve, wear the straight double
+breasted box overcoat; for the older boy, they may be semi-fitting and
+slightly tapering at the waist, and medium length; storm coats are very
+long and much box, the materials include fancy Tweeds, Diagonals,
+Cheviots, Beaver and Kerseys.
+
+At the age of fifteen or sixteen, a boy will require a more distinctive
+type of evening dress, and for these, the Tuxedo or Dinner Coat is most
+recommended. The Tuxedo or Dinner Suit may be made of unfinished
+worsted, diagonal, twills, in black or dark blue, with pointed lapels or
+shawn collar, silk or satin faced to the edge, and finished with one
+button.
+
+A black or grey vest may be worn with black tie, but if the occasion be
+very formal, a white vest and white tie may be substituted, with patent
+leather pumps.
+
+After a boy has reached the age of eighteen or nineteen, he may adopt
+the styles of men in scarfs, waist coats, evening clothes, gloves, etc.
+
+
+
+
+LESSON XII.
+
+BUSINESS ETIQUETTE.
+
+
+Business etiquette. Your duty to your customer requires you to treat
+them with respect, to do the work to the best of your ability, to give
+them the best work of your head and hands, and to treat your customers
+with politeness to show a disposition to please and be a lady or
+gentleman at all times.
+
+Be independent, but not impertinent.
+
+Do your best to please your customers. Never promise to have garments
+finished at a given time unless you intend to have them finished at the
+time promised, and never disappoint a customer if it can possibly be
+avoided.
+
+Never misrepresent. A reputation for integrity is of almost or quite as
+much value in your business as a reputation for skill and taste.
+
+Your most valuable customers are refined ladies and gentlemen; you will
+do well therefore to bear in mind that gentlemen love gentlemen.
+
+Do not breathe in a customer's face.
+
+Dress well, and let your linen be clean; your garments kept well
+cleaned, pressed and repaired.
+
+Your appearance is a part of your capital in the way of getting
+business.
+
+When you have garments that have been ready for customers one month,
+notify them, saying that you will hold them for thirty days longer. Say
+that in the meantime you wish they would call for them.
+
+Everything for the cleaning, repairing and pressing of clothes may be
+had at this office. Send samples or explanation of what is required and
+price list will be forwarded to any address. These goods are sold at the
+lowest possible margin of profit for handling same, and only to those of
+our students who have bought the method.
+
+The following is a partial list of what may be had:
+
+Press-jacks, tables, irons, sponge cloths prepared, brushes, scissors,
+sewing machines, mirrors, desks, chairs, coat, vest, trouser, jacket,
+and skirt hangers, racks to hang clothes on, chalk, needles, thimbles,
+tape measures, basting cotton, linen thread, silk thread, buttonhole
+twist, buttons for coats, vests and trousers to match cloth. Sleeve
+linings for undercoats, vests, overcoats, waist band lining for
+trousers, for ladies' jackets and coats. All kinds of silk and satins
+for body linings, heavy silk facings, for Tuxedos, Prince Alberts, and
+dress coats; velvet collars, any size, silesias, sateens, rubber tissue,
+buckles, haircloth, canvas, beeswax, cleaning fluids, moth preventative,
+and anything used by the cleaner and presser.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+Transcriber's Note:
+
+* Apparent spelling and printer's errors normalised.
+
+* Text enclosed between equal signs was in bold face in the original
+(=bold=).
+
+* Index had entries for pages 20 and 21 (including page numbers)
+reversed in the original.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Copeland Method, by Vanness Copeland
+
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