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diff --git a/34186-h/34186-h.htm b/34186-h/34186-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..49dd732 --- /dev/null +++ b/34186-h/34186-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,3524 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Copeland Method, by Vanness Copeland. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> + +body { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + + h1,h2,h3,h4 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; +} + +p { + margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; +} + +hr { + margin: 3em auto 3em auto; + height: 0px; + border-width: 1px 0 0 0; + border-style: solid; + border-color: #dcdcdc; + width: 500px; + clear: both; +} + +table { + margin-left: 20%; + margin-right: 20%; + width: 60%; +} + + + +td { padding: 0em 1em; } +th { padding: 0em 1em; } + + .pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + color: #999; +} /* page numbers */ + + + .blockquot { + margin-left: 5%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + + .center {text-align: center;} + + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + + .u {text-decoration: underline;} + + .caption {font-weight: bold;} + + .gap { margin-top: 1em; } + +/* Images */ + .figcenter { + margin: auto; + text-align: center; +} + + .figleft { + clear: left; + float: left; + padding: 0; + text-align: left; + width: auto; +} + + .figright { + clear: right; + float: right; + margin: 0em 0em 0em 1em; + padding: 0; + text-align: left; + width: auto; +} + + .bord img { + padding: 1px; + border: 1px solid black; +} + +ins { + text-decoration:none; + border-bottom: thin dotted gray;} + .tnote {border: dashed 1px; + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + padding-bottom: .5em; + padding-top: .5em; + padding-left: .5em; + padding-right: .5em; +} + + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Copeland Method, by Vanness Copeland + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Copeland Method + A Complete Manual for Cleaning, Repairing, Altering and + Pressing All Kinds of Garments for Men and Women, at Home + or for Busines + +Author: Vanness Copeland + +Release Date: November 3, 2010 [EBook #34186] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE COPELAND METHOD *** + + + + +Produced by Julia Neufeld and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 417px;"> +<img src="images/001top.png" width="123" height="65" alt="top design" title="decoration" /> +<p> </p> +</div> + +<h1>The<br /> +Copeland<br /> +METHOD</h1> +<p> </p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 417px;"> +<img src="images/001bottom.png" width="123" height="65" alt="bottom design" title="decoration" /> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>INDEX.</h2> + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Index"> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="right">PAGE</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Equipment</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_3">3</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Tools Required and their Use</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_3">3</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Formula for Cleaning Fluid</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_6">6</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Formula, how to make</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_7">7</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Formula for Moth Preventative</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_7">7</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">How to Use Cleaning Fluids</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_7">7</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">How to Prepare Garments to be Cleaned</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_7">7</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">How to Clean Garments</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_8">8</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">To Remove Stains, etc.</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_13">13</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Repairing</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_14">14</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Darning a Three-Cornered Tear</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_20">20</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Alterations</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_21">21</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Pressing</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_28">28</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">How to Clean Cutaway, Prince Albert,</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> Military and other Uniforms</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_33">33</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">How to Clean and Press Ladies' Jackets, etc.</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_33">33</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Selection of Materials, etc.</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_36">36</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Care of Clothes</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_38">38</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Folding of Clothes</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_41">41</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Testing Goods</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_43">43</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Price List for Cleaning and Pressing</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_44">44</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">How to Dress and What to Wear</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_45">45</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Business Etiquette</td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_55">55</a></td></tr> +</table></div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + + +<h2>The<br /> +Copeland METHOD</h2> +<p> </p> +<div class='center'>A Complete Manual for<br /> +Cleaning, Repairing, Altering<br /> +and Pressing all kinds<br /> +of Garments for Men and<br /> +Women, at home or for<br /> +business.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Copyrighted 1908.<br /></div> +<p> </p> +<h3>BY</h3> + +<h2>VANNESS COPELAND,</h2> +<p> </p> +<h3>BUFFALO, N. Y.</h3> +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[2]</a></span></p> + + + + +<h2>INTRODUCTORY.</h2> + + +<p>High birth and good breeding are the privileges of the +few; but the habits of a gentleman may be acquired by any +man. Neatness is not an art requiring the study of +a life time; on the contrary it's principles are simple, and +their practical application involves only ordinary care.</p> + +<p>To gain the good opinion of those who surround us +is the first interest and the second duty of men in every +profession of life. First impressions are apt to be permanent; +it is therefore of importance that they should be +favorable. Frequently the dress of an individual is that +circumstance from which you first form your opinion. It +is even more prominent than manner. It is indeed one of +the first things noticed in a casual encounter or during the +first interview. Chesterfield has said that "He could not +help conceiving some idea of the people's sense and character +from the appearance of their dress which they appeared +when first introduced to him."</p> + +<p>In the preparation of this book, it has been the aim of +the maker to give in a concise form, all that is properly +embraced in a comprehensive work on not only keeping +our wardrobes in such a state as to cause us to appear to +the best advantage, but also to give a complete instruction +in the manipulation of garments and tools used in the +process of properly cleaning, pressing and repairing all +kinds of garments for men and women.</p> + +<p>A few hints may be helpful to the beginner as well as +to those in the business.</p> + +<p>Observe a well dressed man or woman on the street +or elsewhere, note the make up and fitting points of their +garments, this will help the student to know good work, +and try to do as well when doing the work himself.</p> + +<p>When learning the method of cleaning, repairing and +pressing all kinds of garments for men and women, it is a +good idea, if possible, to have a garment of the same sort +as one is studying close at hand, following closely the instructions +over all parts of the garment; thereby understanding +the teachings better and become more familiar +with the work.</p> + +<p>Should a garment need repairing of any kind or a +button sewed on, do it and charge accordingly.</p> + +<p>Never give a customer clothes that are damp from +pressing, allow them to dry before wearing or delivering.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span></p> +<h2>LESSON I.</h2> + +<h3>EQUIPMENT.</h3> + + +<p>Introduction: A few hints to the beginner as well as +to those now in the business. The tools required and the +best method of using same, for work at home or for business.</p> + + +<h3>TOOLS REQUIRED AND THEIR USE:</h3> + +<p>The tools required for cleaning, repairing and pressing +at home, or for business are as follows:</p> + +<p>For work at home, use an ordinary kitchen table with +smooth top. For use in business, a table eight feet long, +three feet wide and thirty inches high (or as high as is convenient +for the presser, this may be easily determined by +using). This is called a tailor's bench. The balance of +the tools are the same for work at home or for business.</p> + +<p>The kitchen table or tailor's bench may be used for +several purposes; the first of which is to place the iron, +press-jack, sponge cloth, and garment while cleaning and +pressing. Also for men to sit on while sewing.</p> + + +<h3>THE IRON.</h3> + +<p>One may use an ordinary laundry iron (but would +advise the purchase of a solid iron or tailor's goose, +weighing from fourteen to twenty-two pounds, or +according to one's strength), one may heat the +iron on a coal range, gas or oil stove; or one +may use a gas or electric iron, which are being +used with great satisfaction, and are easily handled, being +of little trouble to operate, also doing the work well. +However, it is best to use whatever one considers most +convenient, cheapest and best for the locality in which +one resides.</p> + +<p>The iron is heated and placed on the iron rest, which +has been placed on the table for that purpose, to the right +of the presser, and is applied to the sponge cloth (that has +been wrung out almost dry), causing steam to penetrate +that part of the garment being pressed, thereby refreshing +the cloth.</p> + +<p>The presser should have control of the iron at all +times, also see that the iron is not too hot before using +by testing it on a piece of light colored woolen material. +If it scorches it is too hot for use, wait for a few minutes +to cool.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span>When pressing move the iron from place to place, on +the part to be pressed, by lifting it clear each time, instead +of shoving it along as some do. (To shove the iron along on +the work is apt to stretch garments where not required, +and also cause wrinkles). Keep the face of iron smooth by +rubbing wax over the surface frequently, thereby removing +any lint or dirt that may accumulate from time to time.</p> + + +<h3>THE PRESS-JACK.</h3> + +<p>A press-jack such as the tailors use, is made of two +hardwood boards, thirty-five inches long, one inch thick, +planed both sides and edges and cut egg-shape; the wide +end being eight inches in width, and the narrow or small +end, four inches wide, one forming the top and the other +the bottom.</p> + +<p>Between the top and bottom are screwed two blocks +of solid wood, four by four inches, and six inches high. +The first one is screwed to the top and bottom, three inches +from the large end, and the second block is screwed to the +top and bottom, seven inches from the large end, thereby +leaving a space to the small end, of twenty-eight inches, for +convenience in handling the garments while pressing.</p> + +<p>The top of the press-jack is left perfectly plain and +smooth; the bottom, however, is padded for convenience +for pressing with ten-ply of wadding, cut the same shape +of board or bottom of press-jack. Over this place a piece +of white heavy drilling, drawn tight over the wadding to +keep in place and tacked all around the edges with brass +head tacks. Cut cotton off evenly around the edges beyond +the tacks. This completes the press-jack and is +ready for use.</p> + +<p>The press-jack as tailors term it, is used for the pressing +of clothes, and is also useful to lay clothes on while +cleaning.</p> + + +<h3>THE BRUSH.</h3> + +<p>A brush with a plain back and handle. (Never use a +whisk broom to brush clothes as it injures the fibre of the +cloth.)</p> + +<p>The brush is used to brush garments thoroughly before +cleaning and is used in connection with the pressing of +garments, to slap with the back the part pressed, thereby +keeping the steam in, and making the cloth sweat. The +face to brush the nap of cloth, thereby refreshing the garment, +making it look like new.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span></p> +<h3>THE SPONGE CLOTH.</h3> + +<p>A sponge cloth is made of heavy unbleached cotton, +one yard and a half long, boiled in soap and water for one +hour, then rinse in clean water, thus removing the lint.</p> + +<p>The sponge cloth should be dipped in warm water, +and wrung out almost dry by hand, (or one may use a +clothes wringer if preferred) thereby keeping it clean and +free from grease and dirt that may stick to it from time +to time.</p> + +<p>The sponge cloth is used to lay over the "woolen press +cloth" that has been placed over that part of the garment +to be pressed, also it is the cloth which is to be dampened +and when iron is applied causes steam to be forced into the +garment thereby instilling new life into the cloth as it +were.</p> + + +<h3>THE UNDER WOOLEN PRESS CLOTH.</h3> + +<p>Is made of a piece of plain light colored unfinished or +finished worsted one yard long and eighteen inches wide.</p> + +<p>Place this under woolen press cloth over that part of +garment to be pressed, then lay the sponge cloth on top +of this, and apply the iron.</p> + +<p>By using these two press cloths together, prevents +glossing the garment to a great extent, and may be used +when pressing all kinds of garments for men and women.</p> + + +<h3>COAT AND TROUSER HANGERS, ETC.</h3> + +<p>Coat and trouser hangers are used to place the several +garments on to retain their shape after cleaning and +pressing. They are also very essential in the home to +place garments on that are not in use or being worn, it +is better to place garments on forms than to hang up by +loops that are placed on garments by tailors.</p> + +<p>Other necessities used in the cleaning, repairing and +pressing of garments, are the sponge, tape measure, scissors, +tailor's chalk, needles, thimble, bodkin for pulling +bastings, a sewing machine, a large mirror, fashion plates, +chairs, desk and safe, if one wishes.</p> + +<p>Afterward one may add as many tools as necessity +requires and their business permits.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span></p> +<h2>LESSON II.</h2> + + +<h3>CLEANING.</h3> + +<p>Consists of several formulas for making Standard +cleaning fluids, and the best method of using same, in the +cleaning of all kinds of garments. How to prepare +garments to be cleaned. How to steam clean. +How to dry clean. The secret of success in cleaning. To +clean velvet and velveteen. To remove paint, tar, grease +and ink from garments. How to wash woolens. How to +wash black woolen dresses. How to clean silk, satin and +lace. To remove grease from delicate fabrics. To remove +stains from linen and cotton goods. A formula for +making moth preventative.</p> + + +<h3>CLEANING FLUID.</h3> + +<h4>(Formula.)</h4> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 15%;">2 ounces Chloroform.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 15%;">3 ounces Wood Alcohol.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 15%;">2 ounces Sulphur Ether.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 15%;">2 ounces Spirit of Wine.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 15%;">10 ounces Ammonia.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 15%;">3 ounces Oil of Turpentine.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 15%;">2 ounces Glycerine.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 15%;">Place all seven chemicals in one bottle.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 15%;">3 ounces Borax.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 15%;">3 ounces French Castile Soap.</span><br /> +</p> + + +<h4>DIRECTIONS TO MIX:</h4> + +<p>Cut the French Castile Soap in fine shavings, dissolve +them together with the Borax, in four quarts of boiling +water, cool this solution, being careful that all the soap +is dissolved, then strain through muslin or thin woolen +cloth, to remove any sediment. Then add the other seven +chemicals, mix and shake well. This will make five +quarts Cleaning Fluid.</p> + +<p>This cleaning fluid may be used on any +garment with good results, as it will not injure the fibre +of the cloth. Always rinse spot good with clean water and +sponge, after using cleaning fluids.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span></p> +<h3>HOW TO PREPARE A SIMPLE CLEANING FLUID.</h3> + +<h4>(Formula.)</h4> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 15%;">4 ounces Ammonia.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 15%;">4 ounces Bay Rum.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 15%;">1-6 ounce Salt Peter.</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>To this add one pint of clean water, pour in a small +neck bottle, keep well corked to avoid evaporating.</p> + +<p>This preparation will remove fresh or hard paint, tar, +grease, oil and in fact any spots from clothing, dress goods, +carpets, rugs, and all woolen goods without injury to the +fabric. The above may be obtained at any drug store.</p> + + +<h3>HOW TO PREPARE MOTH PREVENTATIVE.</h3> + +<h4>(Formula.)</h4> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 15%;">4 ounces Powder Borax.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 15%;">4 ounces Powder Alum.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 15%;">4 ounces Powder Camphor.</span><br /> +</p> + +<p>Mix all three chemicals together thoroughly. This +will make a white powder. Sprinkle freely around and under +carpets before laying, also over clothing not in use. +This powder will not leave a stain, and is easily brushed +off. Use freely wherever moths appear.</p> + + +<h3>HOW TO USE THE CLEANING FLUIDS.</h3> + +<p>Dampen a sponge or woolen cloth (white flannel is +the best as there is no color to come out) by dipping it in the +cleaning fluid, which has been poured into a basin for that +purpose and convenience. Rub the spot to be cleaned +with the dampened sponge, woolen cloth or flannel) +with the thread or nap of the cloth until the grease and +dirt is loosened, then rinse with clean water, (always rinse +sponge, cloth or flannel in clean water before cleaning the +stain a second time with pure water) until stain entirely +disappears.</p> + +<p>Always clean garments before repairing or relining.</p> + + +<h3>HOW TO PREPARE GARMENTS TO BE CLEANED.</h3> + +<p>Turn all pockets inside out. Brush thoroughly and +whip with cane if necessary, being careful not to break +the buttons on the garment.</p> + +<p>See that the dust and dirt is thoroughly removed from +the pockets, then return pockets to their place. This is a +very important part and one which is very often neglected<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span> +and overlooked. The garment is then ready to be cleaned. +Proceed as above explained. If one application is not +sufficient to remove the spots, repeat until spots are thoroughly +removed.</p> + +<p>Coats are usually very dirty and greasy around the +collar also down the fronts, great care should be taken to +clean thoroughly and rinse often, thereby removing all +stains.</p> + +<p>All coats, vests, trousers, overcoats, ladies' jackets, +coats, waists, and all kinds of skirts should be cleaned by +this same method.</p> + + +<h3>HOW TO STEAM CLEAN.</h3> + +<p>To steam clean coats, vests, trousers, overcoats, ladies +jackets and skirts and all wool garments:</p> + +<p>Place each garment in a basin of warm water first, and +with soap and a brush go over the entire garment thoroughly, +including sleeve lining.</p> + +<p>Second—pour water off and fill basin again with +warmer water than at first, and wash with stiff brush and +soap as before, using three waters or until garment is +thoroughly cleaned.</p> + +<p>Remove soap water (do not wring garments but allow +to drip, or squeeze water out) and rinse in hot water, then +warm, then cooler, and so on until cold, adding one tablespoonful +of coarse salt. (Dissolve salt in cold water before +placing in basin). This will prevent garment from +shrinking. Place on hanger to retain their shape, allowing +water to drip out. Straighten out wrinkles as much +as possible when drying, thus making the pressing easier, +and when thoroughly dry, proceed to press as explained. +If any spots remain after this process, remove with ammonia.</p> + +<p>For those who perspire under the arms freely, dress +shields placed in the bottom of the arm holes of coats will +be of great benefit.</p> + + +<h3>HOW TO DRY CLEAN.</h3> + +<p>Use a basin large enough to hold one gallon of gasolene +and the garment to be cleaned. (Being careful to keep +gasolene away from the stove or a lighted candle, lamp, +or gas.)</p> + +<p>Place one gallon of gasolene in the basin with the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span> +coat, and swash up and down until all grease and dirt has +been loosened, then place on hangers in the open air, allowing +to dry and gasolene to evaporate.</p> + +<p>Before dipping the coat in the basin, see that all dust +and dirt is removed from the pockets by turning them inside +out and brushing, also brush all seams.</p> + +<p>Use half a gallon for the vest, and one gallon for the +trousers. The more gasolene used, the better will be the +results.</p> + +<p>Gasolene may be used a second time on black goods, +after filtering or settling, but never on light colored materials, +ladies' jackets, coats, wool waists, and skirts may be +cleaned in the same way.</p> + +<p>Gasolene, benzine, naptha, turpentine and ammonia +should be of the best and purest, when used for cleaning +purposes.</p> + +<p>The secret of success in cleaning, is by dipping the +garment in a large quantity of the liquid. Not less than +a gallon of gasolene, benzine or naptha should be used for +a coat, jacket or skirt. Two gallons will do the work better. +One should remove all spots if possible before dipping +in the liquid. It is a good idea to surround each spot +with a basting thread as when wet, some spots do not +show. Soak each garment in the clear liquid, then soap +all spots thoroughly, rub gently between the hands until +spots disappear. Then wash and rinse garment in clear +liquid. Place on hangers in the open air, or drying room, +allowing odor to pass away.</p> + +<p>Soap may be used for cleaning in connection with +gasolene with good results. One may use a little ammonia +with the gasolene and soap. The goods should be well +shaken, and pull all folds out straight with the threads of +the goods. Velveteen, velvet and corduroy may be +cleaned with gasolene, when pile or nap is not much worn.</p> + +<p>When cleaning velvet, or any other fabric, the most +important part is to have all the dust and dirt removed, +by brushing the garment or fabric thoroughly.</p> + +<p>To clean a velvet collar that is not too greasy, and the +nap not worn off: Wet a piece of woolen cloth or flannel +in gasolene and rub lightly, until the grease and dirt is +loosened. Then apply more gasolene with a clean woolen +cloth, and remove all grease and dirt. Place on hanger<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span> +in the open air to dry and to evaporate before steaming. +When much gasolene is used hang coat so that the collar +hangs down, to allow the gasolene to drip out and evaporate, +before steaming. Always being careful not to use +gasolene near a stove, lighted candle, lamp or gas.</p> + +<p>When using gasolene for cleaning purposes, have it +in a gasolene or benzine safety can, used for that purpose, +which may be had at any hardware store.</p> + +<p>To remove old hard paint or tar, apply the cleaning +fluid freely and place the sponge cloth over spot and press +with the iron, as there is nothing that will loosen paint or +tar as well as steam or heat. If one application is not +sufficient repeat until loosened, then scrape off; after that +use more cleaning fluid to remove any stains that may remain, +then rinse in clean water.</p> + +<p>To remove ink stains from woolen materials:</p> + +<p>Apply cleaning fluid, two or three times, washing +spots each time with clean water, and sponge until stain +disappears.</p> + + +<h3>HOW TO WASH WOOLENS.</h3> + +<p>Place four ounces of soap bark in a gallon of water in +a kettle on a stove to boil, then add two more gallons of +water. Throw this over the goods, that has been placed +in another basin for that purpose and rub with the hands. +Rinse in warm water, and hang up to dry. Iron on the +wrong side when damp, until dry, (this will remove all +wrinkles and make goods look like new). This is especially +good for worn garments, that are to be cut and made +over.</p> + +<p>Woolens should be squeezed, and not wrung, and the +wrinkles straightened out while drying.</p> + + +<h3>HOW TO WASH BLACK WOOLEN DRESSES.</h3> + +<p>Have the dress ripped apart, brushed, and all dust and +dirt removed from the seams, also all the old stitches. +Pour four gallons of water in a pail or basin, adding four +ounces of ammonia. Dip each piece of the garment into +the liquid, and swash up and down, and squeeze as dry as +possible, then hang over a pole, and when almost dry, +iron from the wrong side until dry, with an iron not +too hot.</p> + +<p>Woolen dresses, that are much soiled, may be washed +in soap and water, and rinsed out before dipping in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span> +ammonia water, which will improve the color to a great +extent.</p> + +<p>Any material, such as worsted, and wool garments +should be sponged with ammonia and water.</p> + +<p>When cleaning with gasolene, benzine or naptha, to +remove the odor, the article should be placed as near a +steam radiator as possible, or in a drying room +heated by steam or otherwise, this removes the +odor, the steam heat dries out whatever of the +fluid may have remained in the material, and +does so without the danger of explosion which makes it +impossible to dry a garment cleaned with the above near +a lighted stove, lamp, candle or gas.</p> + + +<h3>HOW TO WASH CHAMOIS VESTS.</h3> + +<p>Wash with white soap and warm water, making a +good lather and rubbing well between the hands. Lay +flat on a table, and rub with a dry, clean cloth; rinse; then +roll in another cloth and wring as dry as possible. Unroll +and stretch well; hang up, and when nearly dry press with +a warm iron, being careful not to have the iron too hot +or it will spoil the chamois.</p> + + +<h3>HOW TO CLEAN SILK.</h3> + +<p>Use hot gasolene, heated in a double boiler (never put +gasolene on a stove) place the gasolene in the double +boiler, after it has been removed from the stove and while +the water is still boiling, place the silk to be cleaned in +the boiler, and swash up and down until it is thoroughly +cleaned, then remove and place in the open air to dry +and evaporate.</p> + + +<h3>TO CLEAN BLACK SILK.</h3> + +<p>Brush and wipe with flannel cloth, lay on a table with +the side to be worn up; then sponge with hot coffee (strain +coffee through muslin before using). When damp, lay +cloth on and iron until thoroughly dry.</p> + + +<h3>TO REMOVE GREASE FROM SILK.</h3> + +<p>Use a lump of magnesia (moistened), rub on the spot +and allow to dry; then brush powder off. Repeat if necessary.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span>Silks and satins should be sponged with ammonia and +water. It is not necessary to soak ribbon, unless they are +very dirty. Only black material should be cleaned with +strong ammonia as a difference in the dye stuffs may cause +the material to turn red, wherever the ammonia touches it.</p> + +<p>To clean a colored silk dress, mix together four ounces +of soap, six ounces of honey, and a pint and a quarter of +gin, rub in well with small brush, rinse each piece at once +in cold water thoroughly, drain and iron while wet. This +is especially good for black, also black and white silks.</p> + +<p>Silks may be stiffened by adding two or three lumps +of sugar, or half a teaspoonful of gum Arabic to the water. +Place over a round pole and while damp place a piece of +muslin over the silk and iron until dry.</p> + + +<h3>TO CLEAN BLACK LACE.</h3> + +<p>To a cup of strong tea, add one-half teaspoonful of +gum Arabic. Dip the lace into the liquid, and squeeze it +dry, two or three times (do not wring). Roll in a cloth and +when almost dry, straighten out all the scallops carefully +by hand, being careful to have it of universal width, and +place on a soft cloth or padded board and lay a piece of +muslin over it, then iron until dry. This is suitable for +ordinary lace. But real lace should be pinned or tacked +to a board, being careful to draw out all loops of the edge, +and not drag the lace out of shape.</p> + +<p>All stains and spots should be removed as soon as +possible. Ink stains may be taken out of clothing by +dipping the spot in milk, and squeezing the blackened +milk into a basin, dipping in clear milk again. Repeat +this process until the ink stain has entirely disappeared; +then wash the cloth in warm water, to remove the fat in +the milk.</p> + +<p>Some inks are very difficult to remove but with a +little patience, one of the processes will remove any ink +stain.</p> + +<p>To remove grease spots from delicate fabrics, requires +great care. When the color and fabric will not be injured, +use the cleaning fluid. Otherwise use French chalk or +magnesia powder. Place upon the spots, allow to +remain for a short time. This will often absorb the grease. +If one application is not sufficient, brush off and apply +again until the spot disappears.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span>When water may be used on the cloth, the chalk may +be made into a paste and spread on the spot and left until +dry then brush off.</p> + +<p>When color of a piece of goods has been accidentally +or otherwise destroyed by acid. Apply ammonia to neutralize +the same after which an application of chloroform +will in almost every case restore the spot to its original +color.</p> + + +<h3>TO REMOVE STAINS FROM COTTON AND LINEN GOODS.</h3> + +<p>To remove stains from linen and cotton, wet spots +with luke warm water, then squeeze the juice of a lemon +over the stain, sprinkle with salt, then place in the sun +to hasten bleaching. If one application is not sufficient +to remove the stains, repeat until thoroughly cleaned.</p> + +<p>To remove scorch from cotton, place in the hot sun +until scorch disappears.</p> + +<p>To remove machine oil from white linen, cotton, +or light goods. Rub with pure white lard, then wash +with warm water and soap.</p> + +<p>To remove iron rust.—Dip in medium strong solution +of oxalic acid, then hold over the spout of a boiling tea +kettle. Rinse the spot in two or three waters, then wash +in the usual way.</p> + +<p>To remove Fruit and Berry Stains.—Place spot over +a bowl and pour boiling water through the cloth until +stain disappears.</p> + +<p>To remove Mildew.—Rub soap on the damaged article +then salt and starch on that; rub well in and place +in the sun until spots entirely disappear.</p> + +<p>Fruit, ink, blood and other stains should be removed +before the clothes are wet in the laundry. Tea, +coffee, wine and most fruit stains, can be taken out with +clear boiling water, by stretching the stained portions +over a bowl and pouring hot water through. If they do +not come out, use a solution of borax, ammonia and chloride +of lime, or burn some sulphur and hold the stains over +the fumes. Fresh ink stains may be removed by an application +of dampened salt, allow to remain for several hours, +or soak in warm milk or vinegar and water. Lemon juice +and salt placed on the spots will often suffice.</p> + +<p>Grass stains are most difficult to remove. Dip the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span> +spots in molasses; let it remain until thoroughly saturated, +then wash out in clean water. Repeat if necessary.</p> + +<p>Mud Stains—May be removed by soaking spots in +a solution of oxalic acid. Rinse in several waters; then +in ammonia and water last.</p> + +<p>Cocoa stains may be removed by sprinkling borax +over the spot. Then soak in cold water, and pour on boiling +water.</p> + +<p>Obstinate blood stains—Should be saturated in +kerosene, then rubbed with soap and washed in luke warm +water.</p> + +<p>To prevent muslin from fading—Use a weak solution +of sugar of lead.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>LESSON III.</h2> + +<h3>REPAIRING.</h3> + + +<p>In this lesson is explained how to repair and reline +coats, vests, trousers, overcoats, Tuxedos, Dress Coats, +Vests, Prince Alberts, also Ladies' Jackets and Coats. +How to put new Silk facings on coats. How to repair +sleeves that are worn out around the bottom. How to +put velvet collars on coats. The use of basting thread. +How to prevent trousers bagging at the knee. How to +prepare button holes for working. How to make button +holes. Darning a three-cornered tear. Hems and felling +same. Back stitching.</p> + + +<h3>INSTRUCTIONS IN REPAIRING.</h3> + +<p>To reline all kinds of coats and jackets for men and +women. When new lining is required in coats, rip out +the old lining, starting to rip the sleeve lining, first around +top or sleeve head, then at the bottom or cuff. Now +remove the whole lining and rip apart and iron out smooth +and use as a pattern for the new, cutting new lining out +exactly same size as the pattern, down the seams, but +for convenience in working, allow two seams longer +at the bottom and two seams longer at the top. +Place one top and one bottom sleeve lining together, +Baste seams, having the two right sides of lining together, +and seam on machine, (or one may sew the seams on the +machine without basting, this may be done with a little +practice), press seams open on small end of press-jack, +baste top of sleeve lining in; all around, one-quarter +of an inch, now turn right sleeve inside out and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span> +baste right sleeve lining in by fastening the back +seam of the sleeve lining to that of the back sleeve +seam of coat, baste with long loose stitches, start basting +two inches below top of sleeve, to two inches within the bottom, +being careful not to get lining in too short (take one +quarter inch seam when sewing on machine), as this will +cause sleeve to draw up, and hang in wrinkles, +now fasten the front arm seams same as back, so +that each seam will come directly on top of the sleeve +seam. Turn sleeve right side out, and mark with chalk +on lining of coat at each sleeve seam and baste sleeve +seams at top of sleeve lining to correspond with the sleeve +seams of garment, and baste lining all around until one becomes +familiar with the work.</p> + +<p>Now see that the lining is sufficiently long; cut lining +off even with the bottom of the cuff, and baste sleeve +lining up two inches from the bottom. Then with needle +and silk fell around both sleeves, top and bottom. Turn +sleeve right side out and remove basting stitches.</p> + +<p>Rip out the body lining, starting at the right facing, +and rip down and around the pocket to one inch above +and one inch below the pocket across bottom, up side +seam, and across shoulder. Then remove lining, and iron +out smooth, to use as a pattern, for new lining as before, +leaving the left side of the lining in as a guide to the +beginner as to how the lining should be placed. Then cut +the new lining for the right side one half inch larger all +around than the pattern for allowance in shrinking, and +also for convenience while working. Then baste lining +in right side, being careful not to put lining in too tight. +Rather have it too long, but not so long that it hangs +below the bottom of garment. Coats will not hang well +with tight or short lining. Turn edge of lining in down +front, and across bottom with basting, and fasten lining +to side seam of forepart with long loose basting stitches. +Then rip lining out of left side and iron out smoothly for +a pattern, cut and baste in new lining on left side the same +as explained for the right. Now cut the back lining double +and seam down back centre seam, basting one inch plait +for ease, then press to one side, and baste in back, and +turn all edges in, down side seams, across bottom and +shoulders, and back of neck. Now fasten lining all around +arm hole to the seam, thereby holding lining in place, so<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span> +as not to allow it to come loose. Cut lining off even with +seam all around arm hole, then baste sleeve lining around.</p> + +<p>Cut lining to back of pocket, and at back end, cut +lining in a trifle to allow working, and for turning in +around the pocket, and fell lining in all around the pocket +mouth, and proceed to fell the lining, doing +the same with the left side. Now finish felling the entire +coat. Remove basting stitches, and finish garment in the +usual way.</p> + +<p>Ladies' jackets and coats are relined in the same way, +also all kinds of men's coats and overcoats included.</p> + +<p>When new silk facings are required for coats, remove +the old facing, and use it as a pattern for the new, and +when cutting the new facing, allow three quarters of an +inch all around for convenience, while working. Baste +new silk facing on very neat, and take time to do good +work. When basting is completed, fell all around with +fine silk, being careful not to draw the stitches tight, nor +to contract the edge.</p> + +<p>Try to have the new silk facing put on so that it will +look better than the old one did when new. This will +bring you customers. The price to charge for such work +is by the hour and for material used.</p> + + +<h3>TO RELINE VESTS.</h3> + +<p>Rip old lining and back out of right side, and iron out +smooth for a pattern.</p> + +<p>Now cut forepart lining one half inch larger all around +and baste in forepart lining, observing how the left is put +in. Baste edges of lining in, down facing, across bottom +and around arm hole, (when one becomes familiar the right +sides of lining may be placed to that of the foreparts and +sewed around the armholes by machine, thereby saving the +felling by hand).</p> + +<p>Now rip left inside lining out and replace it with new +lining, same as the right. Fell all around, then iron the +back lining out smooth for a pattern, cutting it exactly +the same size as the old one, and mark with chalk, where +seam was sewn before. Cut inside lining the same size, +and seam back seams on the machine, and press open +(or one may stitch to one side), place right sides together +to sew; smooth with iron, and baste the right forepart, +side seam to that of the back lining, also to the +shoulder. Baste left side the same way. Now baste the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span> +inside lining to inside of vest. This will leave an opening +at the top of neck and bottom. Now baste, placing both +back seams together, and baste each way to the side seams. +This will leave an opening, now only at the neck, thereby +forming a pocket, or bag for the vest, as it were. Sew +with machine, in same seam as at first, down side seam, +across shoulder, and bottom, and around arm holes, notch +lining around back arm hole. Remove basting, and turn +vest right side out at the neck. Baste lining even around +bottom and arm hole. Now baste lining across back of +neck, inside and out, then fell entire lining.</p> + +<p>When basting the shoulders of vest, have the back lining +one quarter of an inch full in the hollow of front of +shoulder, to allow for stretching, and to form a concave.</p> + +<p>Should vests require to be made larger, when one has +the lining out, all one has to do, is to mark with chalk or +thread, the amount to be made larger, adding amount from +the old seam on back, and baste forepart side seams to +the mark to be made larger. If new pockets are required, +and one is not familiar with the work, remove the pocket +very carefully, observing every detail as to how it should +be put together. Iron out smooth and cut new pocket, +seam around, all but mouth, and place inside of pocket, +and turn edges in all around top or mouth of pocket, and +fell with silk same color as pocket (never remove welt +from pocket when only new pockets are required). Should +the buttonholes need repairing, repair them. Also see +that the buttons are sewed on firm. Darn all holes, and +clean and allow to dry before new lining is placed.</p> + + +<h3>NEW WAIST BAND LINING IN TROUSERS.</h3> + +<p>Remove old one, and iron out smooth and use for +pattern. Cut new one out and baste in and fell around +tops and down sides, and fasten at pockets to hold in place. +If new buttons are required, sew them on before new lining +is placed, so as not to sew through the lining. Repair +trousers where needed.</p> + +<p><b>To repair sleeves that are worn out around the bottom</b> +run a basting thread around both sleeves five inches from +the bottom of cuff, to hold lining in place, then rip sleeve +lining around the bottom, unfasten the turn up of sleeve +from the wigan, (darn sleeve edge if necessary when it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span> +is worn through), now baste up firmly one eighth of an +inch, or as much more as the sleeve will allow and still +be of sufficient length, (run basting one-quarter inch from +bottom), fasten the turn up back to the wigan with basting +(this basting is left in); now let sleeve lining come +down, and if it is longer than to the end of cuff; cut off +what comes below.</p> + +<p>Then turn sleeve lining in on the turn up two inches +from the bottom of cuff with basting stitches, and fell +lining with silk same color as the cloth or lining. Finish +both sleeves the same. Remove basting, turn sleeves +right side out; and press all around cuff as explained. +When felling do not take long stitches, short ones look +neater and are stronger and work will have a better appearance +when finished. Should the sleeve be finished +with stitching around the cuff, finish the same when repairing. +Sew buttons on, this completes the repairing +of sleeves at the bottom.</p> + + +<h3>HOW TO PUT VELVET COLLARS ON COATS.</h3> + +<p>Remove old one, pick out old stitches in coat collar +(the old stitches in velvet do not matter), place coat in a +convenient manner on the press-jack and press collar and +lapels into shape.</p> + +<p>Cut new velvet collar one-eighth inch larger on each +side than the pattern, or larger if necessary, and steam +over an iron as explained. Stretch the edges a trifle on +each side of velvet, being careful not to leave finger or +thumb marks, and when cool, baste on coat, (silk thread +should be used when basting velvet) in collar crease +through velvet to hold in place.</p> + +<p>Run another basting below crease and in the stand +of collar, and another row of basting on leaf of collar close +to the crease. Run another basting near the outside edge +of collar leaf, and form a cushion at each end to allow +ample room for ends to curl under (instead of up). See +that the velvet is not basted on too tight or too short.</p> + +<p>Now turn velvet in over old seam or stitches on the +inside of coat collar, from end to end; and baste velvet +over edge and all around leaf. Now cut velvet off even +along the leaf, then fell inside of velvet to coat neck with +silk to match; and herringbone velvet to leaf all around<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span> +from end to end. Make a loop or hanger out of a straight +piece of lining one-half inch wide, and turn all edges in +and fold again and fell together; now sew to the coat as +before, turning both edges of loop in, and tacking same +through stand of collar. Remove all basting by cutting +each stitch and pulling out from the right side, and with +the nap of the velvet.</p> + + +<h3>TO STEAM COLLAR.</h3> + +<p>Place iron on its side, cover with a piece of paper, over +this lay a wet sponge cloth; then hold coat collar very +close to steaming cloth (when one is familiar with the +work they may allow the collar to rest on the steaming +cloth for a minute), and move back and forth, allowing +steam to come through the velvet. Then remove the +collar and shape by hand, as when worn. Brush the nap +gently to freshen while steaming, but with a very soft +brush. Place on coat hanger, and allow to dry before +wearing or delivering.</p> + +<p>Good sewing, good pressing, well finished ends and +corners, lightness of touch which holds the work without +apparently touching it, will give to the finished garment +a fresh look.</p> + +<p>All these are important considerations.</p> + +<p>When darning, great care must be taken to have the +work finished up neatly, as darning and mending is an art, +and like everything else, requires patience and practice.</p> + +<p><b>Basting</b> is only used in the preparation of work, to +hold stuff and lining, or any two or more parts of the work +together, while it is being stitched, as none of the basting +is left in the finished garment. It is also used as a guide +for sewing and marking on light colored goods as it will +not leave a mark as would colored chalk. For ordinary +work, basting stitches should be cut every few inches and +drawn out.</p> + +<p>It is impossible to prevent trousers bagging at the +knee, but here is an idea that will help materially to keep +knees in shape. Fasten a piece of silk to the forepart of +trousers on the inside to the seams and across bottom +and top seven inches above and ten inches below the knee, +being careful not to allow stitches to show through on +right side.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span>Buttonholes may be made easy to work by spacing +off the number required, with pins or thread marks.</p> + +<p>Mark length of hole, and stitch on a machine the +desired length, then turn at right angles and take two +stitches, then turn back and stitch other side. Turn at +right angles and take two more stitches, thereby tacking +both ends. All buttonholes may be stitched in one garment +without removing from the machine.</p> + +<p>This method takes the place of serging or overcasting +and is much better for thin ravelly goods.</p> + + +<h3>MAKING BUTTONHOLES.</h3> + +<p>Buttonholes should be overcasted or serged as soon +as cut, with fine thread or silk, the stitches should be light, +loose and even, this is done with a slanting stitch.</p> + +<p>Making buttonholes: Insert the needle on the edge +of the material and when half way through, take the two +threads at the eye of the needle bring them towards you +at the right and under the point of the needle, drawing +the thread from you, making the purl or loop stitch come +directly on the edge of the buttonhole. Stitches should +lay close together just far enough apart for the purl or loop +stitch to form, always have each stitch of the universal +length so the stitches will look straight on each side of the +buttonhole, the stitches may be placed closer together at +the end as most wear comes there.</p> + + +<h3>DARNING A THREE CORNERED TEAR.</h3> + +<p>A three cornered tear may be darned in two ways. +Commence by darning diagonally through the center, +darning back and forth towards the end of the tear until +one-half has been finished; then begin at the center and +work in the opposite direction. At the corner, the stitches +should form the shape of a fan. Another method which +is stronger, is done by darning a square in the angle, first +with the warp threads, then with the woof threads, and +finishing each end across the tear.</p> + + +<h3>HEMS AND THE FELLING OF SAME.</h3> + +<p>A hem is a fold of goods doubled twice to prevent a +raw edge. The fold should be turned even and straight<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span> +with the thread of the material, on this depends the neatness +of one's work. The hem should always be turned in +toward the worker and basted firmly not too near the edge, +leaving one-eighth inch space for working. Felling—when +felling or hemming, the needle should take up only +the edge to be hemmed or felled down and just enough +to hold on the cloth or lining. When felling or hemming +take small stitches close together, even, and do not draw +thread or silk too tight as to cause the edge to have the +appearance of the teeth of a saw.</p> + + +<h3>BACK STITCHING.</h3> + +<p>The back stitch is made by placing the needle back in +the last stitch, bringing it out once the length of the last +stitch, then placing the needle back into last stitch and +so on, being careful not to draw the thread too tight as +to have a drawing appearance, make the stitches follow each +other without leaving a space between. Back stitching +is used in places where much strain is on the seam.</p> + +<p>Bias hems, such as sleeve head lining, etc.</p> + +<p>All bias hems and curved edges, should have the folds +basted in.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>LESSON IV.</h2> + +<h3>ALTERATIONS.</h3> + + +<p>How to shorten and lengthen coat sleeves. How to +raise and lower collars. How to alter (or change) a coat +that is too large around the neck and collar. How to +make the alteration when a coat is too large over the chest. +How to change a vest that is too large around. How to +make a vest larger around. How to change trousers that +are too long. How to lengthen trousers. How to make +trousers smaller around the waist. How to make trousers +larger around the waist, whether there is an outlet or not. +How to make button cords for sewing on buttons. An +easy way to hang a skirt. How to iron over buttons without +breaking. Also how to iron embroidery.</p> + + +<h3>HOW TO MAKE ALTERATIONS ON GARMENTS.</h3> + +<p>When sleeves are to be shortened or lengthened, have +customer try coat on, and mark with chalk, the length +desired. Then remove coat and run a basting of cotton +around both sleeves, five inches above cuff, to hold lining +in place, while doing the work. Then with a knife or +scissors, rip lining around both cuffs. Unfasten turn up +from wigan. This will allow turn up to fall down. Now<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span> +mark with chalk, around both sleeves, the correct length. +Turn up and baste solid, and fasten turn up, to wigan, +same as before. Now allow lining to fall down, and cut +off even all around the end of the cuff. Baste lining two +inches from the edge of cuff, and fell with silk same color +as the cloth or lining. These instructions are for shortening +sleeves.</p> + +<p><b>When sleeves are to be lengthened</b>, proceed as before, +but with this difference,—should the lining, and turn up +of cuff not meet, it will be necessary to piece the lining +or sew hand facings to the bottom of sleeve, same as the +cloth in garment, or as near as possible. Then fell sleeve +lining to facing.</p> + +<p><b>When sleeves are to be lengthened</b>, baste a piece of +wigan to that which is now in place, the amount to be +lengthened, and fasten turn up to the wigan, and turn +sleeve lining in two inches from the end of cuff. Fell +sleeve lining to turn up as before.</p> + +<p><b>Sleeves may be lengthened</b> all of the turn up, by +sewing a piece of cloth to the sleeve, same as the garment, +same size around, and sewn in a seam on the machine. +Baste and turn edges out even, and press firm, stitch +around with machine, thereby making it firm and solid.</p> + +<p>Stitch edge of sleeve to match edge of coat.</p> + +<p>Fasten ends of silk thread by threading them to a +needle and taking a stitch or two, then cut off. Sew +buttons on as required. This completes the lengthening +of sleeves.</p> + +<p><b>Should coat collar be too high</b>, run a row of basting +cotton, two inches below the collar seam; mark with chalk +the amount to be lowered, then rip with knife or scissors, +inside and out from crease to crease. Now baste under +collar to neck of coat first, and fasten inside of coat to the +stand of collar. Now baste the outside or top collar on +the inside to the coat in keeping with the amount lowered +and fell inside and outside of collar. Sew loop on back +of coat collar inside, and remove basting. Place coat +collar on press-jack in a convenient manner and press in +same crease as when worn.</p> + +<p>Place on a coat hanger, to retain its proper shape and to +dry before wearing. (When basting under collar to coat +neck, start basting from center back seam, forward to +each side.)</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span><b>When coat collar is to be raised</b>, run a row of basting +cotton two inches below the collar seam, from end to end. +Rip under collar and unfasten coat from stand of collar +inside and rip inside collar from crease to crease. Mark +with chalk the amount to be raised, and start basting from +the center back seam, forward to each side; then fasten +coat to the stand of collar, and baste inside or top collar +to the inside of coat the amount raised on the outside. +Fasten loop to stand of collar inside, remove bastings and +place coat collar on press-jack in a convenient way, press +as before and hang to dry before wearing.</p> + +<p>If however, the coat collar is to be raised and one +finds that by raising, that the collar will be too long, the +collar may be cut in the center and seamed or taken off +at one end (if only raised on one side) or both as the case +may be; if raised all around, the collar must be shortened +at both ends.</p> + +<p>This is a very particular piece of work, and should +not be attempted unless the garment is old, and one wants +to practice on it; this may be had by altering an old garment +for practice, as with practice, most anything may be +accomplished. (When one has had considerable experience +in this line, then it may be done without taking it +to a tailor; until then, it will be best to let the experienced +tailor do the work on a good coat.)</p> + +<p><b>When a coat is too large around the neck and collar</b>, +and falls away at the bottom when unbuttoned, and bulges +at the opening when buttoned, is an indication that the +garment is not balanced properly. This may be changed +to fit perfectly in the following manner: Run a basting +three inches from each side of the shoulder seams and to +front of coat to collar end. Rip collar off from crease to +crease, rip shoulder seams from neck to within two inches +of the sleeve seam, and mark with chalk, the amount to +be taken in (as the shoulder strap is too long from neck to +bottom of arm hole and must be shortened so that the +coat will hang squarely and well balanced when unbuttoned +as well as when buttoned), mark from neck gradually +to nothing at the end of the two inches, from the +shoulder or sleeve head; this amount to be taken off the +forepart in all cases, baste back to shoulder seam and press +open, unless a trifle may be taken off the center back seam +at top, which is a good idea, so that the collar will fall +more closely to the neck. Baste shoulder and lining together.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span> +Now baste collar on, starting at the center back +seam, and baste forward each way, and if found too long, +shorten as explained above; fell shoulders and collar. +Finish collar neatly and press shoulder and collar.</p> + +<p>When one side is to be altered (this one may see +when customer has coat on and buttoned, and one side +stands away from the neck), in that case, only change one +side.</p> + +<p><b>When a coat is too large over the chest</b>, and by setting +the buttons back from the edge two and one-half inches +(which is only to be done in extreme cases) will not have +the desired effect; run a row of basting cotton around arm +hole two inches from the sleeve seam, across shoulder to +the front end of collar and two inches from the shoulder +seam. Rip sleeves and shoulders out and collar off +from end to end, press seam out smooth, and mark with +chalk the amount shoulder is to be advanced, say from +one-quarter to three-quarters of an inch, as the case may +be (this may be easily determined when the coat is on the +customer, notice the amount of lap and then judge the +amount), baste back shoulder to forepart of coat having +the top of back even with the chalk mark; seam and +press open, baste shoulder and lining together, now baste +collar on, then baste sleeve in, and seam and press open +seam as before and fix up sleeve head, and cut off end of +shoulder amount shoulder was advanced at shoulder point. +This will take surplus goods away from the front and allow +goods to go back; finish collar, shoulders and sleeves +and press.</p> + +<p>Double breasted coats are different, the buttons may +be set from the edge, according to style and fashion.</p> + +<p>When a coat is too large in the back, take part out +in the side seams and part out in the center back seam; +the best way to determine the amount to be taken out, +is to pin each seam a trifle when customer has coat on, +then one will get the proper effect of the alteration.</p> + +<p><b>When a vest is too large around</b>, it may be pinned on +the customer, down the side seams and center back +the desired amount to be taken out; this alteration may +be done in the following manner: Rip vest across back +of neck, rip each side seam, mark with chalk the amount +to be taken in on each side seam and center back seams.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span> +Baste forepart to that of the back at side seams and baste +center back seam together, lining and outside.</p> + +<p>Seam on machine, remove the basting, turn vest right +side out and fell across back of neck. Press side seams, +back and around neck; place on hanger to retain shape.</p> + +<p><b>When vest is to be made larger</b>, proceed as follows: +Rip side seams and across the back of neck, press out side +seams of back, and remove stitches, and if there is an +outlet, mark with chalk the amount to be let out on each +side, and baste as before and finish the same. If there is +no outlet, one must sew a piece of lining to the outside +and inside lining; press open the seams or stitch to one +side and press. Then mark with chalk the amount to +be let out and proceed as explained and finish.</p> + +<p><b>When trousers are too long</b>, they may be shortened +in the following manner: Mark with chalk (using the +tape line for measuring length) the desired length, loosen +the bottoms, (if felled, rip with knife or scissors, being +careful not to cut the cloth), if there is rubber in the bottoms, +wet a piece of cloth with gasolene, and rub over +the outside and pull turn up free from the bottoms. +Turn trousers inside out, allow to dry after using +gasolene before turning up bottoms. If rubber is +to be put in the bottoms, cut a piece one inch and a half +wide, and baste in the turn up or hem and fasten hem to +the side seams with silk, only leave a two inch turn up, +cut balance off.</p> + +<p>Before pressing, place on the small end of press-jack +and press all around as in pressing cuffs or bottom of +trousers as explained. (But not with sponge cloth, only +with iron and wet bottoms with sponge). Press until +rubber is thoroughly melted and set. When one has +pressed both bottoms all around, turn trousers right side +out and press bottoms as in ordinary pressing.</p> + +<p>When bottoms are felled, leave two inches for turn +up and cut off the balance. Fell with silk all around, being +careful not to let stitches show through on right side. +Press bottoms same as explained.</p> + +<p><b>When trousers are to be lengthened</b>, loosen them at +the bottom measure with tape line, the desired length, +from crotch down, making them one inch shorter in the back +or according to fashion. Mark with chalk the desired +length, and place rubber or fell as the case may be, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span> +press as explained; but if trousers are to be lengthened, +all. It will be necessary, to sew a piece of cloth to the bottoms +same size and same cloth (or as near as possible), +sew on machine and baste edges out even, and place rubber +or fell; press bottoms and finish in the usual way +by turning trousers right side out, and pressing bottoms +and legs. Sew heel protectors on (they may be made of +silesia by turning all edges in, or made of cloth, same +material as trousers) half inch wide and four inches long, +sewn half; each side of the center or crease of back trouser +bottom. This must be sewed to the inside of bottom.</p> + +<p><b>When trousers are too large around the waist</b>, mark +with chalk (or pin on customer), the amount to be taken +in, rip back seam down as far as is required. Remove the +two back suspender buttons and rip lining back far enough +for convenience in working. Baste the back seam together +and sew in the chalk mark (by machine or by +hand) to within two inches of the top of waist band; press +seam open and fasten back seam at waist to the waist band +on each side and leave an outlet one inch and a half wide, +each side of the back seam at the top, tapering to nothing +at the bottom or three inches from the inside leg seam.</p> + +<p>Sew back suspender buttons on two inches each side +of back seam. Put a good neck on buttons to allow +suspender button holes to fit smoothly around button. +This may be done by placing a match or pin over the top +of button and sewing over it, filling the holes with twisted +thread or button cord made for that purpose, as explained +in (how to make button cord.)</p> + +<p>When holes are filled, remove the match or pin, and +wind cord around under button, and fasten by taking two +stitches through the neck, and cut thread off. Now fell +lining back in place, leaving an opening at top of, say two +inches in back seam for ease. Press and finish in the +usual way.</p> + +<p><b>When trousers are to be made larger around waist</b>, +rip lining three inches each side of the back seam at top +and remove the two top back suspender buttons. Rip +back seam down the required amount and press out the +mark made by the seam. Now with the chalk, mark the +amount to be made larger, half the amount on each side +of seam, baste seam and sew on machine or by hand in chalk +mark. Remove basting, and press seam open, fasten to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span> +each side of the seam at waist as before, leaving two inches +open at the top for ease. Sew two back suspender buttons +on; and fell waist band lining. Finish and press in the +usual way.</p> + +<p><b>When trousers are to be made larger at the waist</b>, and +there is nothing to let out, remove back suspender buttons +as explained, and waist band lining. Cut a piece of +cloth "V" shape as long as is necessary and of the same +material or as near as possible; make this piece two seams +wider than required. This may be determined by the +amount to be made larger, (the larger the piece at the top, +the longer the wedge will have to be, as it will not do to +have an abrupt slant). Baste right sides of cloth and +trousers together, sew on machine and remove basting +and press open the seam. Then baste other side and +seam, then press open; fasten a piece of canvas across the +top of waist where piece has been set in, and stitch with +machine across, in keeping with the stitching on the waist +band. If no waist seam, just stitch even with the waist +stitching. Sew back suspender buttons on, and fell waist +band lining at top, and finish as explained, fastening waist +band lining to seams to hold it in place; press and finish. +When pressing seams, always press on the smooth side +of the press-jack, and dampen with the wet sponge, this +will make pressing easier; but do not put too much water +on seams.</p> + +<p><b>How to make button cords for sewing on buttons</b>. +Thread a needle with linen thread double, then rub beeswax +up and down the thread; then twist, and when one +has twisted enough, rub with a piece of cloth. This will +help to keep the twist in the cord and make it strong, +which is very essential in sewing on buttons; one knows +how annoying it is to have buttons coming off; this may +be prevented by sewing them on good with twisted thread.</p> + +<p>When using silk thread, always draw it through beeswax +and rub through cloth to remove excess wax. This +will make the silk stronger, and also will slip through the +cloth more easily when sewing.</p> + +<p><b>A good method of hanging a skirt.</b> Have customer +stand on top of the stairs, the fitter sitting on the second +step. This is an easy way to see that skirts hang evenly +all around, marking the proper length without rising, or +getting on the knees or sitting on the floor.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span><b>Ironing over buttons made easy and safe.</b> Place four +ply wadding on press-jack, buttons facing wadding. Iron +from the wrong side until dry. This is equally good in +ironing embroidery waists. (When ironing embroidery +white wadding should be used.)</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>LESSON V.</h2> + +<h3>PRESSING.</h3> + + +<p>How to sponge and shrink all kinds of woolen goods +for dressmakers and tailors, before making into garments, +also for one's own use at home. How to use the iron and +sponge cloths. How to press hard finished worsteds. +How to press single and double breasted sack coats, overcoats, +rain coats, Tuxedos, motormen and conductors, also +fatigue coats, cutaways, morning, dress coats, Prince Alberts, +military, clerical, uniforms, footman's liveries, Newmarket, +Paddock and Palitot. All kind of jackets, coats +and skirts for ladies. How to press single and double +breasted vests with or without collars, also clerical and +fancy vests. How to press trousers.</p> + +<p>How to sponge and shrink all kinds of woolen goods +for dressmakers and tailors, before making into garments, +also for one's use at home.</p> + +<p>To prepare a sponge cloth for that purpose, use unbleached +cotton four yards long, (or as long as the cloth +to be shrunk requires), boil in soap and water for one +hour, rinse in clean water to remove any lint, then it is +ready for use.</p> + +<p>Place woolen goods to be sponged on a table or clean +floor, then wet the sponge cloth by dipping it into a pail +or basin of warm water so that it will get thoroughly wet, +wring out almost dry (but not so dry as when pressing) +and place over the goods smoothly, see that the cloth is +free from wrinkles. Make a flat roll six inches wide, or +as wide as a wrapping board would be (do not roll on a +board as it will leave a mark difficult to remove). Roll +evenly until cloth to be shrunk is thoroughly covered, sides +and ends with sponge cloth.</p> + +<p><b>Time required for goods to remain in sponge.</b> Close +woven material, such as hard finished worsteds, broad +cloth, kerseys, meltons and beavers, require to be left in +sponge three hours while open wove goods, such as homespuns, +unfinished worsteds, soft overcoatings, and ladies'<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span> +cloth requires but two hours. When goods is ready to be +taken out of sponge, unroll and place over a round pole, +(sufficient height to allow cloth to clear the floor), or +lay smoothly on a table or floor.</p> + +<p>When dry, fold (not roll) double, and so on until you +have a fold seven or eight inches wide, and small enough +to place in a package.</p> + +<p>The wrinkles may be pressed out with a warm iron, +being careful not to allow gloss to form, and see that iron +is not hot enough to burn or scorch cloth. Also to see +that ends are even especially on stripes and checks, and +to see that checks and plaids match.</p> + +<p>When pressing always have the iron to the right on +the table, the edge of the garment facing toward the +presser. Start pressing the right side of all garments first. +In this way forming a system of doing the work.</p> + +<p>When pressing all kinds of coats, vests, ladies' jackets +and coats, have the neck, collar, or waist seam lying on +the small end of the press-jack, and start from the center +back seam of all coats and vests, and press forward on +the right side, toward the front edge.</p> + +<p>To press the left side of all coats and vests, reverse the +press-jack and garment so that neck, collar waist seam +or band is lying to the left. Commencing as before, from +the center back seam of garment, and continue pressing +left side, and around to the front edge, which must be +facing the presser.</p> + +<p>Coats, vests, jackets and coats, should be placed on +hangers to retain their proper shape.</p> + +<p>A good iron rest for the table, is made by nailing a +smooth horseshoe to a block of wood, a trifle larger than +the shoe.</p> + +<p>When using the under woolen press cloth, cotton +sponge cloth and iron, lay the under woolen press cloth, +and sponge cloth on that part of the garment to be +pressed, and apply the iron until sponge cloth +shows signs of drying. Then remove the +cloths and iron, and slap with the back of the brush +that part just pressed, to refreshen same, and brush the +part pressed, with the thread or nap of the fabric; thus +making the garment look like new. Go over the entire +garment (and all garments) in this manner until the whole +garment has been pressed.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span>When trousers have been pressed, place them over +a round pole, suspended from the ceiling, or fastened to +the wall with brackets. A still better way is to place them +on individual hangers.</p> + +<p>Do not give customers garments damp from pressing, +place them on hangers and allow them to remain for +one hour before wearing or delivering.</p> + +<p>Do not try to press clothes that are damp from cleaning +or otherwise. Allow them to thoroughly dry, when +they will press more easily, and customers better satisfied, +by giving them first-rate work.</p> + +<p>When a garment has been pressed all over, examine +it thoroughly for gloss, and where any appears, remove it +as explained (in how to press hard finished worsteds.)</p> + +<p>This process should be followed carefully when pressing +all kinds of garments.</p> + +<p>When pressing, the iron should never be shoved or +pushed, as in ironing, as before explained; as it is apt to +stretch where not required. Only heavy materials require +heavy pressing or great strength. Whatever the material, +pressing is work that requires to be done carefully and +slowly. When pressing seams, allow the iron to touch +only the center of the seam, then the edges of the seam +will not be outlined on the outside of the garment. This +however, is only intended for light weight goods, as when +pressing seams in heavy material, it is necessary to press +more solid.</p> + +<p><b>How to press hard finished worsteds.</b> When pressing +hard finished worsteds, place under woolen press cloth, +and sponge cloth over the part to be pressed, (wring +sponge cloth as nearly dry as possible), and apply the iron, +not too hot, allowing it to rest until sponge cloth is entirely +dry. (This is termed by tailors, as dry pressing or glossing). +Now remove iron, and press cloths and place a +damp part of the sponge cloth over that part just pressed, +to remove the gloss, if any, by applying the iron lightly, +and slap with the back of the brush while steaming. Also +brushing the nap of the cloth.</p> + +<p>Avoid stretching while pressing especially the edges +and collar, unless it is required, (and the presser understands +where to stretch, and is familiar with the fitting +qualities of the garment.) When pressing around the +pockets, have flaps on the outside, and turn pockets inside<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span> +out before cleaning, that all dust and dirt may be removed, +then return the pockets to their proper place before starting +to press.</p> + +<p>When a coat or vest is placed on the table or press-jack, +to be pressed, and one notices fullness along front +edges and bottom, press fullness away by laying under +press cloth and sponge cloth over part to be pressed and +leave iron until sponge cloth is entirely dry, then remove +cloths and apply a damp part of the press cloth, and iron +again to remove gloss as explained before. Always have +edge of garments pointing toward the presser. This may +be learned and accomplished in a short time with little +practice.</p> + +<p><b>How to clean and press single and double breasted +sack coats, motormen and conductors, also fatigue</b>: Brush +thoroughly, and if necessary whip with cane, being careful +not to break the buttons on the garment. Turn all pockets +inside out, and have flaps on the outside. Remove all +spots; special care must be taken to remove grease and +dirt from the collar, also the fronts, with the cleaning fluid. +Place on coat hangers and when dry, proceed to press as +follows:</p> + +<p>Have coat lying on the table or tailor's bench to the +right, draw the right cuff over the small end of the press-jack +which should be pointing to the right. Lay the +sponge cloths over that part of the garment to be pressed, +(which you have prepared by wetting in a pail or basin +of warm water used for that purpose and wrung until almost +dry), then apply the iron until the sponge cloths +shows sign of drying. Then remove the sponge cloths +and iron, and slap with the back of brush (as has been explained.)</p> + +<p>Continue this around the right sleeve cuff, and also +the left. Then with the coat in the same position, reverse +the press-jack and place the right sleeve, top side up on the +large end of the press-jack, being careful to have the sleeve +smoothed out nicely, then lay sponge cloths over and apply +the iron, pressing full length and width, up and down the +sleeve, (being careful to see that no wrinkles are pressed +in the sleeve.)</p> + +<p>Remove the cloths and iron as before, slapping with +the back of the brush, then brushing the nap to refreshen +the cloth.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span>Turn sleeve over and press under side of sleeve the +same.</p> + +<p>Press left sleeve in the same manner. Crease sleeves +front and back, if requested by customer.</p> + +<p>Reverse the press-jack and draw right shoulder of coat +over the small end of the press-jack in a convenient manner, +and press around the armholes, by laying the sponge +cloths on the part to be pressed. Apply the iron as before, +and then slap with the back of the brush. Now press +around left shoulder and arm hole in the same manner.</p> + +<p>Next place the coat so that the collar points to the +right on the large end of the press-jack. Lay the sponge +cloths on the back of the coat, applying the iron as before, +and press down back and around right side of coat to the +front edge; always having the edge of the garment toward +the presser. Reverse press-jack and coat, then as before, +commence pressing at the center back seam, and forward +to the front edge. This completes the left side.</p> + +<p>Place the coat on table or tailor's bench, and reverse +press-jack; lift coat and place collar or press-jack in a +convenient way, so that the collar and lapel, when pressed, +will be creased the same as when worn.</p> + +<p>Commence pressing from the center of collar to the +right side of lapel, being careful not to stretch the edges +of lapel or collar. Then from the center of collar at the +back, press forward on left side as before. Turn coat inside +out, and smooth lining with cool iron, and with an +almost dry sponge cloth. This will remove any wrinkles, +and leave the lining smooth.</p> + +<p>Now press the right side of facing and lapel, by laying +four-ply of wadding on the press-jack, and place right forepart +of coat so that the buttons face toward the wadding, +and press on the wrong side, the buttons will sink into the +wadding thereby avoiding the breaking of same, which +is very easily done if great care is not taken. Now remove +the wadding and press left side on the padded side +of press-jack in the usual manner. Now turn the coat +right side out, place right shoulder in a convenient manner +on the small end of the press-jack, and if any wrinkles appear +on top of the right sleeve head, press them out. Do +the same with the left side.</p> + +<p>Look coat over thoroughly for gloss, if any appears, +place coat on press-jack in a convenient manner and remove +as explained.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span>When pressing coats, be careful to have the flaps on +the outside, the pockets returned to their proper place inside, +before starting to press.</p> + +<p>Roll fronts of coats to the inside, so that they will retain +their proper shape, also to give to them that chesty effect, +which is very essential, in the pressing of all kinds of coats, +and vests. One will soon become familiar with the work +by a little practice.</p> + +<p>Place coats on hangers to dry before wearing or delivering. +Sack overcoats, rain-coats and Tuxedos, are +pressed in the same way.</p> + +<p><b>How to clean and press cutaway dress, Prince Albert, +military, clerical, uniforms, footman's liveries, Newmarket, +Paddock and Palitot.</b> The above garments are cleaned and +pressed the same as other garments, but with this difference:—Coats +with skirts are pressed from the collar or +neck to the waist line or seam, then moved up to the waist +line or seam, and pressed from that to the bottom of skirt, +and around to the front, having the edge of the garment +pointing toward the presser. All coats lined with silk are +pressed very lightly, especially lapels and facings (as the +mark of the iron shows easy; and on silks is difficult to remove.)</p> + +<p>Silk should look fluffy in a garment, and therefore +does not require much pressing. Great care must be taken +when cleaning, pressing, and repairing dress suits, +Tuxedos, Prince Alberts, and any garment that is silk +lined. The price to charge for such work may +only be figured by the amount of silk, and time +required to do the work. Silk facings may be had by +mailing samples to this office, and we will send price list.</p> + +<p><b>How to clean and press ladies' jackets and coats</b>: +Brush thoroughly, and if necessary, whip with cane to remove +all dust and dirt. Remove all spots with the cleaning +fluid, place on hangers, and when dry, press as follows: +Ladies' jackets and coats are pressed the same as men's, +but with the following differences: Press around cuffs, +sleeves and shoulders on the small end of the press-jack, +then start at the center back seam and press forward to +the front edge, having the collar or neck pointing to the +right. Always have the edge of the garment facing the +presser. Reverse the press-jack, coat or jacket, and commence +pressing as before, down the back seam and around<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span> +left side to front edge. Lay sleeves on the press-jack and +press as before, being careful to have plaits in the right +creases and the gatherings in their proper place. Do not +allow more plaits or wrinkles to form on the top of the +sleeves than is needed.</p> + +<p><b>How to clean and press all kinds of skirts for ladies</b>, +Brush thoroughly and whip if necessary, turn the skirt +inside out, and brush dust and dirt, from the seams and +bottom. Clean all grease spots, if any, with the cleaning +fluid, place on hangers, and when dry, press as follows: +Draw skirt on press-jack with the waist band pointing to +the left, on the small end of the press-jack; the skirt to +be drawn on the press-jack to the left. Use the sponge +cloths and iron the same as when pressing other garments. +Press around the top of the skirt and as far below as the +press-jack will allow. If skirt is plaited, be careful to have +the plaits lying smooth on the press-jack, either pin or +baste plaits in their proper creases before starting to press.</p> + +<p>When pressing thin skirts, it is not necessary to press +very hard, only until the steam arises, then slap with the +back of the brush to keep steam in the goods, also to refreshen +the garment. Place on skirt hangers to dry before +wearing or delivering. Always look for gloss, and if any +appears, remove as explained.</p> + +<p><b>How to clean and press single and double breasted +vests, clerical, with or without collar</b>: Brush thoroughly +and whip with cane, if necessary, to remove dust and dirt, +being careful not to break the buttons on the garment. +Turn all pockets inside out to remove all dust and dirt +from them. Then remove all spots with the cleaning fluid +as explained. Place on coat hanger, and when dry, press +as follows: Place the right forepart of the vest smooth +on the press-jack, with the edge facing the presser, and the +neck or the collar pointing to the right. Cover with +sponge cloths and apply the iron until the cloth shows +signs of drying. Remove and slap with the back of the +brush, then brush the nap of the cloth to refreshen and +make it look like new, being careful not to stretch the opening +when pressing the forepart and shoulders.</p> + +<p>When pressing the foreparts of vests, start at the side +seams, and press forward to the front edge. Now reverse +the press-jack and vest and press left side in the same +manner, around the shoulders and arm holes. Now smooth +the wrinkles from the back, starting from the center and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span> +pressing forward to the right side seam; then press the +left side in the same manner. This removes the wrinkles, +and may be done with almost dry sponge cloth and medium +warm iron.</p> + +<p>All vests are pressed in the same way, with the exception +of fancy or white vests. With these use a plain +white cotton cloth, and wet sponge with clean water.</p> + +<p>Fancy wool vests should be dry cleaned before pressing.</p> + +<p>Wash vests require a little thin boiled starch to give +body to goods, then iron when almost dry. Turn all pockets +inside out before starting to press. The pockets are +pressed first, then returned to their proper place, thereby +keeping the mouth of the pocket neat and even. Continue +the ironing until the vest is completed. With a little practice, +one will soon become familiar with the work. Always +being careful not to stretch the opening. Rather shrink in, +by pressing in a half circle from left to right toward the +front edge.</p> + +<p>When pressing vests examine the pockets and see if +there is a chamois watch pocket, if there is sew or fasten +a piece of cloth on the outside of vest pocket as a reminder +not to press over the pocket; if you did it would spoil the +chamois, and a new pocket would have to be put in for the +customer.</p> + +<p><b>How to clean and press trousers</b>: Brush thoroughly +from the right side, and whip, if necessary, then turn them +inside out. Also the pockets. See that all dust and dirt +is thoroughly removed, also lint from the seams. Then +turn right side out, and remove all dirt and grease spots +with the cleaning fluid as explained. Place on hangers, +and when dry, proceed to press as follows: Place trousers +flat on a covered table with the knees up (trousers being +turned inside out) wet bags at knee with sponge. Apply +the iron, not too hot and press in a circle to the center, +to remove and shrink away the bag; now do the same with +the left leg. Turn trousers right side out, and press +around bottoms, same as in pressing the cuffs on coats. +Reverse press-jack and trousers, and press around tops +with sponge cloths and iron as far down as seat line or +end of fly, starting from the right side of fly and pressing +around to the left fly. Remove the press-jack and lay +trousers flat on the table or bench that has been covered +with felt or cloth (melton, kersey or thibet). Place creases<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span> +at the bottom together with the left hand, and with the +right hand place the two top suspender buttons together, +then lay them flat on the bench or lengthwise of the +table. Then turn the left leg back as far as the seat +line, and straighten the right leg out smooth on the +table. Cover with the sponge cloths and apply the +iron, pressing full length of leg, until cloths shows sign +of drying, pressing the front and back creases sharp. +Then remove the iron and sponge cloths, then slap +with the back of the brush to refreshen and brighten +the cloth or garment. Now turn the leg over and +press other side in the same manner; then turn leg over +to inside as at first and bring the left leg down to meet the +right bottom. Turn trousers over, and then turn the right +leg back, and proceed to press the left inside leg the same +as right. Turn left leg over and press outside. Now turn +left leg over to inside as at first, bringing the right leg +down to meet the left at the bottom, then have both legs +lying perfectly even on top of each other. Press them together +from fly or seat line, down to the bottom. Turn +trousers over, and press other side in the same manner, +using the back of brush for slapping and face to brush nap +of cloth. Then place the press-jack on the table again, +with the small end pointing to the right, then draw the +right bottom of the leg over the small end of press-jack, +and press crease out through the turn up. Do this at the +front and back about two inches from the bottom. Now +press the bottom of left leg the same way.</p> + +<p>Some customers do not want this crease taken out, +then of course it is to be left in. But custom-made trousers +are usually not pressed through the turn up.</p> + +<p>This completes the pressing of trousers, place on hangers +before wearing or delivering. By practice, one may +soon become an expert.</p> + +<p>Broadfalls are pressed in the same way. Examine for +gloss, and if any, remove as explained.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>LESSON VI.</h2> + +<h3>SELECTION OF MATERIAL.</h3> + + +<p>Amount required, for suits, vests, trousers, overcoats, +dress suits and Prince Albert suits, Tuxedos, Paddock, +Paletot; also ladies' waists, jackets (long and short), and +skirts. The amount of material required to reline coats,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span> +vests, and top of trousers; ladies' coats and jackets; velvet +collars and silk facings.</p> + +<p>Amount of goods required for the following garments:</p> +<div class="blockquot"> +<p><b>Sack Suits</b>—36 to 42 inches breast measure, 3½ yards, +54 inches wide.</p> + +<p><b>Cutaway or Morning Suit</b>—36 to 42 inches breast measure, +3½ yards, 54 inches wide.</p> + +<p><b>Prince Albert Suit</b>—36 to 42 inches breast measure, 3¾ +yards, 54 inches wide.</p> + +<p><b>Tuxedo Suit</b>—36 to 42 inches breast measure, 3½ yards, +54 inches wide.</p> + +<p><b>Dress Suit</b>—36 to 42 inches breast measure, 3½ yards, 54 +inches wide.</p> + +<p><b>Sack Overcoat</b>—36 to 42 inches breast measure, 42 inches +long, 2¾ yards, 54 inches wide.</p> + +<p><b>Trousers</b>—30 to 42 inches waist measure, 36 to 42 seat +measure, 30½ to 34 inside leg measure, 1½ yards.</p> + +<p><b>Vests</b>—36 to 42 inches breast measure, 1 yard, 54 inches +wide.</p> + +<p><b>Paddock or Palitot</b>—36 to 42 inches breast measure, 4 +yards, 54 inches wide.</p> + +<p><b>Ladies' Shirt Waist</b>—30 to 40 inches bust measure, 3½ +yards, 27 inches wide.</p> + +<p><b>Ladies' Jackets and Coats (short)</b>—30 to 40 inches bust +measure, 2½ yards, 54 inches wide.</p> + +<p><b>Ladies' Jackets and Coats (long)</b>—30 to 40 inches bust +measure, 4½ yards, 54 inches wide.</p> + +<p><b>Ladies' Skirts</b>—20 to 42 inches waist measure, 40 to 44 +inches long, 4½ yards, 54 inches wide.</p> +</div> + +<p>Amount of goods required to reline the following garments:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p><b>Sack or Tuxedo Coat</b>—2 yards, 32 inch or 1½ yards, 54 +inches wide. Serge, Alpaca, Italian cloth, or silk, +to match. 1 yard fancy sateen sleeve lining.</p> + +<p><b>Overcoats</b>—42 inches long, 2½ yards, 32 inches wide or 2 +yards, 54 inches wide. Serge, Italian cloth, or +Circassian. 1½ yards satin sleeve lining, 20 inches +wide. Or 1 yard, 40 inch Lusterene sleeve lining.</p> + +<p><b>Overcoats, Silk or Satin Lined Throughout</b>—Require from +4 to 5 yards.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span></p> +<p><b>Vests</b>—7/8 yard, 32 or 54 inches wide. Serge, Alpaca, +Italian cloth or silk, for outside back. 1 yard 20 +inch fancy sateen, for inside body lining.</p> + +<p><b>Trousers</b>—½ yard 20 inch colored sateen, for waist band +lining.</p> + +<p><b>Dress Coats</b>—Prince Alberts, 3 yards 30 inch silk, for the +former, and 4 yards, for the latter.</p> + +<p><b>Tuxedo Facing</b>—1 yard heavy corded or fancy weave silk.</p> + +<p><b>Dress or Prince Albert (fancy)</b>—7/8 yard heavy corded or +fancy weave silk.</p> + +<p><b>Velvet Collars for Overcoats</b>—vary in width from 4½ to +6 inches wide on the bias. This may be determined +when velvet collar is ripped off by measuring width.</p> +</div> + +<p>When new buttons are required, replace with as near +as possible to the original.</p> + +<p>When using silk, and buttonhole twist, match cloth as +near as can be had.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>LESSON VII.</h2> + +<h3>CARE OF CLOTHES.</h3> + + +<p>Under this lesson is explained the care of clothes. +How to keep them looking fresh and clean. How to be +well dressed.</p> + +<p><b>Care of clothes</b>: Cleaning, brushing, repairing and +pressing frequently is a step in the right channel, for a +man's appearance depends largely upon the care he takes +of his clothes. Clothes should be brushed often especially +after being worn in the dust and dirt, and should be hung +up in a clean place where they will be out of the dust. +Coats and vest should always be placed on coat hangers +together to retain their shape, and to be ready for wear +when wanted. The loop at the back of the coat collar, +should never be used to hang coats up by but for a few +minutes, as the weight of garments will pull the collar out +of shape.</p> + +<p>Trousers after being brushed thoroughly, should be +turned inside out, and placed on hangers, by doing this +you are reversing the folds and wrinkles that have formed +while wearing, thereby allowing the cloth to fall back into +place. It is impossible to prevent trousers bagging at +the knees, but may be prevented in this way. Fasten +a piece of silk to the forepart of trousers on the inside to +both leg seams across top and bottom of silk, seven inches<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span> +above and ten inches below the knee, being careful when +sewing not to let the stitches show through on the out +side. Another suggestion and a good one, is to buy two +pairs trousers with each suit (except a dress suit, then it is +not necessary) and wear them alternately, two days at a +time, and have them pressed each time you change, and +turned inside out each night.</p> + +<p>It is a good idea to have a row of hooks at the top of +one's wardrobe from which to hang these forms, thereby +saving much space especially in the smaller houses. Care +should be taken to draw trousers up well when wearing, +so that they will set properly. When trousers are worn +without suspenders, they must be cut shorter waisted, +shorter in the legs and closer around the waist. If one +wears suspenders it is a luxury to have a pair for each +pair of trousers. Then when one adjustment is made saves +any further bother.</p> + +<p>Brushing clothes is a very simple but necessary operation, +a fact which few people thoroughly appreciate. Fine +clothes require brushing lightly with a soft brush, except +when mud is to be removed, then a stiff brush should be +used, after garment has been lightly beaten to loosen the +dirt. Never use a whisk broom to brush clothes as they +injure the fibre of the cloth. When brushing lay the coat +on a table, and brush in the direction of the thread or nap +of the fabric.</p> + +<p>A well made, well fitting garment should not be +thrown away when slightly worn, but should be repaired, +cleaned and pressed. Many times lasting as long after +being repaired as at first. Unless absolutely necessary +never patch, when darning will answer the purpose better. +If the garment is not too badly worn baste a piece of cloth, +the same as the material in the garment (or as near as possible) +under the weakened part and darn to this piece. One +may back stitch with silk to match the cloth, or make a +small running stitch. When the entire part has been thoroughly +darned, turn the garment inside out and herringbone +all around the piece of cloth (or patch to the inside) +being careful not to allow stitches to show through on the +outside. Press and they are ready for wear. This is +especially good when repairing the seat of trousers.</p> + +<p>Tape is invaluable in repairing, as it may be used to +strengthen weak places and where buttons are to be sewed,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span> +acting as a stay, also saving time of turning the edges of +the cloth in, and is less clumsy.</p> + +<p>Ruskin says, "Clothes carefully cared for, and rightly +worn, show a balance of mind and respect."</p> + +<p>The freshness of a garment depends upon the care +taken of it, and only requires a few minutes each time they +are taken off; they should be carefully brushed, to remove +all dust and dirt, removing all spots, buttons sewed +on and replaced when worn, new braid on the bottoms of +skirts, cleaning and pressing, making little necessary alterations. +All these little duties given proper attention, +will keep a wardrobe fresh and in good order.</p> + +<p>It is not always the wear on the clothes, that tell so +sadly upon them. It is the care that they receive. A few +garments, well made and properly fitted, and good care +taken of them, is far more preferable than a number of inferior +quality and make.</p> + +<p>When clothing is laid away for another season, they +should first be thoroughly brushed, repaired, cleaned and +pressed, to be ready for wear when needed. If placed in +bags or boxes, the moth preventative should be sprinkled +over freely. Tailors' boxes are very good to place garments +in, that are not in use, and should be labeled on the +outside as to the contents.</p> + +<p>Fold all articles on the seams, if possible, being careful +when folding sleeves and collars. Coat lapels should be +turned to lie flat; collars turned up, and the coat folded in +the center back seam, sleeves lying together and on top +of each other. Then fold in half crosswise, and place in +the box.</p> + +<p>If fancy waists and coats are put in drawers, fill the +sleeves with tissue paper. This will prevent wrinkling.</p> + +<p>To be well dressed, one's clothes must be of good material +and fit well. The length of waist, and full length +should be in proportion to the wearer, or as near fashion +as good taste will permit. Sleeve the right length, and +hang properly, and to come to the root of the thumb. The +collar must fit close around the neck, the lapels should be +neat and even, the opening in front should close without +bulging when buttoned, and should have no cross wrinkles +under the back of arms, and no wrinkles below the collar. +The whole appearance of the garment must be easy, the +chest should be of the athletic style (chesty), while the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span> +waist should be close fitting and flat (not tight). The +arm hole should not be too deep so that the coat will remain +in its proper position while sitting as when standing. +The buttonholes must be neat, and the buttons sewed on +good and strong with neck.</p> + +<p>The overcoat should be easy, not clumsy, and of +fashionable length, sleeves to cover the under coat, and to +fit close around the neck (sleeves of a rain coat may be +longer than those of an ordinary overcoat), and must be +the same length at front and back at bottom.</p> + +<p>A vest should fit easy to allow the body to slip up and +down, whether sitting or stooping, more especially the +former.</p> + +<p>A great many people make the mistake by having their +vests made snug. One will never get a good fitting vest +in this way. A vest should come up close around the collar, +and high enough, so that it will not crawl under the +linen collar, this may be avoided by having a good tailor +make one's clothes.</p> + +<p>Trousers should be the proper length, and of ample +size over the hips, knee, and to fall gracefully over the +shoe at the bottom, (some wear them very short with cuff +or French bottoms, this is a style for college towns, and is +not universal.) The waist should be the proper height +and size around, (for trousers worn without suspenders, +the waist must fit closer and cut shorter waisted). Stout +men do not want their trousers very long waisted +and up under their arms, therefore great care +must be taken when selecting, cutting and making +stout men's trousers. When trying on a pair +of trousers, or in fact any garment, stand before the mirror +in one's natural position, do not twist and turn, and cause +wrinkles to form all over the garment, and when +looking at the trousers, look at them in the mirror; do +not look down upon them as many do, and often condemn +a good fitting pair of trousers, because by stooping +and looking down, wrinkles appear that when standing +natural, hang smooth and straight.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>LESSON VIII.</h2> + +<h3>FOLDING CLOTHES.</h3> + + +<p>How to fold coats, vests, trousers, ladies' jackets, +coats and skirts. How to place each garment in boxes<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span> +for storing, delivering, shipping, the marking names and +addresses on same.</p> + +<p>How to fold all kinds of coats, for delivery, traveling, +storing, or shipping. Turn sleeves back to the collar, so +that the folds come at the bend of the elbow, now turn +the lapels and fronts back over the folded sleeves, then fold +the skirts over and up level with the collar, so that the +crease will fold about the center of the garment, then +double one-half over the other so that the folds come in +the center back seam.</p> + +<p><b>To fold vests</b>: Place two foreparts together right +side out, having the edges and side seams even and on top +of each other, then fold back over fronts of vest so that +back seam lays perpendicular with the front edge, +straighten wrinkles out of shoulder. Then fold neck, or +collar down level with the bottom, so that the crease will +fold about the center of the garment, or bottom of arm +hole.</p> + +<p><b>To fold trousers</b>: Place two top suspender buttons +together and front creases at bottoms even and on top of +each other up and down the leg, lay smooth on the table, +then fold backs over on fronts to meet front creases and +taper to nothing, to about six inches above the knee, then +fold legs, bringing the bottoms up level with the top of +trousers, so that bend will come about the knee or half +the entire length of trousers. Then place in box for +delivery. If, however, trousers are to be placed in a +paper package for delivery, or to be folded small +for packing, the following is an easy method, when backs +are folded over to meet the front creases, and legs are lying +smooth on the table, divide the entire length of the trousers +in three parts making two folds, one three inches below +the seat line or fork, the other about fifteen inches +from the bottom, place in paper to deliver.</p> + +<p>When a suit is to be placed in a box for delivery, lay +trousers in first, (folded as first explained), the vest next +and the coat last, place cover on box, and wrap with heavy +cord to hold top and bottom together, also for convenience +when carrying.</p> + +<p>Ladies' jackets and coats are folded the same as men's, +either short or long.</p> + +<p>Ladies' skirts are folded in this manner, if plain, take +front of waist band in the right hand, and with the left<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span> +find center front of skirt at bottom, lay on table and fold +front over to meet the center back seam of skirt, then +fold double and place in box or package, for delivery. +When skirt is plaited see that the plaits lay in the proper +creases, and fold as explained above, being careful not to +make too small a package so as not to crush.</p> + +<p>The firm name should be printed on the cover of the +box together with these words, "Please unpack and place +on hangers as soon as received." This prevents clothes +from wrinkling badly. The customer's name and address +should be written plainly in the space left for that purpose +on the cover of the box.</p> + +<p>When sending a package by express or other carrying +companies, it is best to mark the value of the contents +of the package on the cover.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>LESSON IX.</h2> + +<h3>TESTING WOOLEN CLOTH AND SILK.</h3> + + +<p><b>Testing woolen cloth and silk</b>: The great value of +wool as a fibre, lies in the fact that it is strong, elastic, +soft and very susceptible to dye stuffs, and being woven, +furnishes a great number of air spaces, thereby rendering +clothing made from it very warm and light.</p> + +<p>Wool may be dissolved completely by a warm solution +of caustic soda.</p> + +<p>Cloth may be tested by unravelling a corner of a +piece of cloth, lighting it with a match. If the flame runs +along, and goes out, leaving a brown ash, and is smooth +when rubbed between the thumb and finger, it contains +cotton. If it burns and curls up into a ball at the end, +and goes out, and the ashes black like charcoal, and is +gritty when rubbed between the thumb and finger, it is +a pretty sure indication, that it is all wool.</p> + +<p>The strength of a piece of cloth, may be tested by a +thread removed from the goods, by holding one end with +the right hand, and the other with the left. Pull, and if +it breaks off short, it is not a strong piece of goods, and +would not wear well; but if it pulls out long and stringy, +and upon examination one finds the fiber from one to two +inches long, this may be considered a good piece of goods, +and would wear well.</p> + +<p>Silk may be tested by unravelling an end, and burning +the threads. If the ash is brown and is smooth when<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span> +rubbed between the thumb and finger, this would not be +considered pure dye silk. If, however, when lighted, it +curls up into a ball at the end, and goes out, and the ash +black and when rubbed between the thumb and finger, +and is gritty like charcoal, one may feel sure that it is +pure dye stuff and will give excellent wear and will not +crack.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>LESSON X.</h2> + +<h3>PRICE LIST FOR CLEANING AND PRESSING. +REPAIRING AND RELINING EXTRA.</h3> + + +<p>Price list for cleaning and pressing the following garments. +Repairing and relining <b>extra</b>:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Business Suits, Tuxedos Suits, Dress Suits, Overcoats, +Ladies' Coats and Jackets, $1.00 and upwards.</p> + +<p>Single Vests and Trousers, 25c. each and upward.</p> + +<p>Ladies' Skirts, 75 cents and upward.</p> + +<p>Coats, all kinds, steam or dry cleaned, $1.00 extra.</p> + +<p>Ladies' Coats, Jackets and Skirts, steam or dry cleaned +$1.00 extra.</p> + +<p>Vests and Trousers, 50 cents extra.</p> + +<p>Overcoats, all kinds, steam or dry cleaned, $1.00 to $2.00 +extra.</p> + +<p>Relining Coats, $3.00 and upward; Vests, $1.25 and upward.</p> + +<p>New Waist Band Lining for Trousers, 75c. and upward.</p> + +<p>New Velvet Collars, $1.50 and upward.</p> + +<p>Single Velvet Collars to buy, cost from 50 cents upward.</p> + +<p>New Silk Facings, $3.00 and upward per yard.</p> + +<p>Body Lining costs from 50 cents upward per yard.</p> + +<p>Sateen Sleeve and Vest Lining costs from 25 cents upward +per yard.</p> + +<p>Silk and Satin Linings cost from $2.00 and upward per yard.</p> + +<p>Velvet by the yard costs from $3.00 upward.</p> +</div> + + + +<p>Workmen are usually paid from 20 cents to 30 cents +per hour. Customers are usually charged 50 cents per +hour for time required to do the work. All work done +must be figured by the time required to do the work.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span></p> +<h2>LESSON XI.</h2> + +<h3>HOW TO DRESS AND WHAT TO WEAR.</h3> + + +<p><b>How to dress well.</b> The first thought to consider in +supplying our wardrobe, is the material. Let it be of +good quality. Cheap stuff is never good unless it is good +quality at a low price.</p> + +<p>One good suit of clothes, or dress, gives better satisfaction +(in lasting qualities, appearance and general makeup) +than two suits at the same price.</p> + +<p>A well selected piece of goods, tailored by a reliable +tailor, always looks well, and may be kept repaired, cleaned +and pressed into shape occasionally, a fact that few men +properly understand. While the low priced suit never +has the look of that of a well fitted tailored suit, and cannot +be kept looking as neat.</p> + +<p>Made to order garments are always fitted and made +better (if by a reliable maker). In this way, one has the +privilege of trying on and be fitted; then when a perfect +pattern has been made for you, your future garments may +be made from that pattern (changing the style of course, +but keeping the fitting points the same as the pattern.)</p> + +<p>Men and women have their individual peculiarities, +such as one shoulder low, or one may be sloping shouldered, +another square, erect and stooping, etc. All these different +variations must be taken into consideration when +making custom made garments (or garments made to one's +individual measurements), and all well dressed men and +women should have their garments made to order. They +are more easily cleaned, pressed and repaired, for their +building and make up has been studied and put together +by skilled mechanics.</p> + +<p>Men of limited capital who do not wish to spend much +money on dress, should wear dark materials for suitings. +Dark morning suits may be worn on many occasions +when a light suit would be bad taste. Fashion should be +followed, but avoid extremes. The wrinkles and bags +at the knees should be pressed out frequently. Close +woven cloth keeps its shape in garments better. The vest +should always be buttoned. Remove buttons on all garments +as soon as they show sign of wearing, and replace +with new.</p> + +<p>Skirted coats and vests should be made to fit closely +around the waist, and loose over the chest to give the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span> +wearer that athletic appearance. This tends to make the +wearer stand straighter.</p> + +<p>On the other hand, if a coat or vest is tight over the +chest, it tends to make the wearer stoop. The carriage of +men who do not wear suspenders, is generally better than +those who wear them.</p> + +<p>When a single breasted coat or vest is too tight across +the chest, in many cases it is beyond remedy, as the tailor +cannot add anything to the front after the garment is +completed.</p> + +<p>Double breasted coats and vests, however, are different, +on these; the buttons may be moved a trifle toward the +front edge, thereby giving more breathing room over the +chest, which is very much needed, and adds to the appearance +of the garment.</p> + +<p>Single breasted sack overcoats, with fly front, are +most desirable from every point of view. The man of +taste and refinement always selects dark, quiet colors for +his overcoats.</p> + +<p>Men of taste who carry canes, select those that are +strong, plain, light and small. Large canes are in very +bad taste for young men.</p> + +<p>A white necktie should never be worn except with a +full dress suit, save by clergymen, and a few elderly men +who never wear any other color.</p> + +<p>A high silk hat should not be worn with a sack suit. +A low hat should not be worn with a double breasted frock +or Prince Albert.</p> + +<p>Straw hats should not be worn, only with light summer +suits. Dark suits are preferred on Sundays, especially +in town, and light suits should never be worn to church +anywhere.</p> + +<p>Double breasted frock coats should be made of black +or grey materials.</p> + +<p>At small informal gatherings, most men consider +themselves sufficiently dressed when they wear black frock +coats and dark trousers. It is not necessary for men to +wear dress suits where ladies are required to be in full +dress. At public entertainments, restaurants and cafes, +for example, where the ladies wear their bonnets, the man +who wears a black frock coat, dark trousers, and light kid<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span> +gloves, is better dressed; because more appropriately, than +he, who wears a full dress suit.</p> + +<p>'Tis true, the practice of wearing such a suit occasions +additional expense, as otherwise a business suit, or walking +suit, and a dress suit may be made to serve all occasions.</p> + +<p>When at home, every man goes in for comfort, however +it will be well to remember that it is not polite +to appear at the table, whether they are strangers or not, +or will show himself to any one with whom he is not on +a familiar footing, in his shirt sleeves.</p> + +<p>A gentleman for an evening visit, should always be in +evening dress. Dress coat, vest and trousers, white linen +and white cravat (a black cravat is permissible, but not in +full dress.)</p> + +<p>For a dinner party, ball or opera, a man must wear a +white cravat. Watch fob is very fashionable.</p> + +<p>On Sunday afternoons and evening at home, gentlemen +are permitted to wear frock coats, and to regard the +day as an "off" one, unless invited to a grand dinner, then +you must wear the dress suit.</p> + +<p>Men are always ungloved, except when riding or +driving.</p> + +<p>Colored shirts and flannel shirts are worn in the morning, +often until the dinner hour in the summer, and it is +proper to go to an informal breakfast in the informal dress +of the tennis ground.</p> + +<p>For a formal luncheon, a man must dress himself in +black frock coat, a colored necktie, and grey or drab stripe +trousers, and white shirt.</p> + +<p>For lawn tennis,—flannel shirts, rough coats, knickerbockers, +long grey, woolen stockings, and string shoes.</p> + +<p>Simplicity, neatness, and fitness mark the gentleman.</p> + +<p>Good clothes, manners, breeding, and education, admit +one to the better circles of society. It is not sufficient +to do as others do, but we must dress as they do when we +go out in the world.</p> + +<p>He is best dressed, whose dress attracts least attention, +and in order to attract attention, one's dress must be +seasonable, appropriate, and conform to the prevailing +fashion, without going to extreme, and to appear comfortable.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span></p> + +<p><b>Evening Dress</b>:—For all formal events after six o'clock, +balls, formal dinners, opera and theater, receptions +and weddings.</p> +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Overcoat—Chesterfield, Inverness, or Skirted.</p> + +<p>Coat—Evening dress coat.</p> + +<p>Waistcoat—White or black, single or double breasted. +Ribbed silk, or flowered patterns of satin and silk.</p> + +<p>Trousers—To match coat, outside seam trimmed with +silk braid, fitting a trifle closer over the hips than for +ordinary wear, medium width knees and bottoms.</p> + +<p>Shirts and Cuffs—Plain white, ruffled or plaited bosoms, +corded stripes, attached cuffs, domestic finish.</p> + +<p>Collars—Standing, Poke or lap front.</p> + +<p>Neckwear—White corded stripe or lawn, string with +broad round ends.</p> + +<p>Gloves—White or Pearl, Grey glace, one button, self-stitched.</p> + +<p>Jewelry—Plain or Moonstone studs, and links.</p> + +<p>Hat—Silk, cloth band or opera for theater.</p> + +<p>Shoes—Varnished calfskin or patent leather button tops +or patent leather ties for balls.</p> + +<p>Style—Peaked broad lapels, rolling to waist with two +buttons on each side, natural shoulders, chesty effect.</p> + +<p>Material—Undressed worsted, English twill or shadow-stripe, +in black or dark blue.</p> + +</div> + +<p><b>Informal</b>:—Evening dress, for all informal occasions, club, +stag, and at home dinners, theaters and informal +dinners.</p> +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Coat—Evening jacket, Tuxedo.</p> + +<p>Waist coat—To match coat, dove grey; black corded +silk for winter, white for summer, single or double +breasted, opening cut "V" shaped.</p> + +<p>Trousers—To match coat.</p> + +<p>Shirts—Plaited, or may be of soft or negligee style. Attached +cuffs, domestic finish.</p> + +<p>Collars—High band, fold or wing.</p> + +<p>Neckwear—String, fancy figured, black or grey ground +with black figures, or to match material in waist coat, +knot drawn tight, and wide ends.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span>Gloves—Grey, Suede, or tan.</p> + +<p>Jewelry—To match buttons of waist coat, dull chased +gold stud, links, watch fob and seal.</p> + +<p>Hat—Soft or derby.</p> + +<p>Shoes—Patent or enamel leather, button tops, or ties.</p> + +<p>Style—Chesty effect, shoulders trifle wider than natural, +shawl collar or peaked lapels rolling low and fronts +well cut away below bottom button.</p> + +<p>Material—Plain or striped unfinished worsted, black, +dark, blue or Oxford.</p> +</div> + +<p><b>Informal Day Dress</b>:—For ordinary occasions, before six +o'clock and Sundays.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Overcoat—Chesterfield.</p> + +<p>Coat—Morning or Cutaway.</p> + +<p>Waist coat—To match coat, single or double breasted, +or quiet pattern of fancy vestings.</p> + +<p>Trousers—Dark narrow grey or light stripe worsted or +cassimere.</p> + +<p>Shirts and Cuffs—Plain white, attached cuffs.</p> + +<p>Collar—Poke lap front or wing.</p> + +<p>Neckwear—Ascot, once over or four-in-hand in somber +effects.</p> + +<p>Gloves—Tan or grey.</p> + +<p>Jewelry—Gold links and studs, scarfpin, with watch +guard.</p> + +<p>Hat—High silk.</p> + +<p>Shoes—Varnished calfskin, patent leather, button tops +and light colored spats.</p> + +<p>Style—Chesty effect, oval lapels, with concave edge, +shoulders trifle wider than natural, and wadding on +extreme points, to give square effect; roll low.</p> + +<p>Material—Unfinished worsted, diagonal or plain Vicuna.</p> + +</div> + +<p><b>Day Dress</b>:—For all occasions, before six o'clock; afternoon +calls, church, day weddings, receptions, and +matinees.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Overcoat—Chesterfield.</p> + +<p>Coat—Morning frock, for informal, double breasted +frock or Prince Albert for formal occasions.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span></p> + +<p>Waist Coat—Double or single breasted, to match the +coat, or quiet fancy vesting, avoiding extremes.</p> + +<p>Trousers—Dark narrow stripe worsted, moderately +close fitting with slight hip fullness.</p> + +<p>Shirt and Cuffs—Plain white, round or square cornered, +attached cuffs.</p> + +<p>Collar—Poke, lap front or wing.</p> + +<p>Neckwear—Ascot, black or white effect, once over, +white or Pearl.</p> + +<p>Gloves—Brown, light tan, self-figured, closed with one +button.</p> + +<p>Jewelry—Gold links, and studs, gold watch guard, and +scarfpin.</p> + +<p>Hat—High silk, cloth band.</p> + +<p>Shoes—Varnished calfskin, or patent leather, button top +with light colored spats.</p> + +<p>Style—Chesty effect, oval lapels, with small rounded +corners, roll low, shoulders trifle wider than natural, +raising extreme points with wadding.</p> + +<p>Material—Unfinished worsted, or diagonal, in black or +Oxford.</p> +</div> + +<p><b>Morning and Business Dress</b>:—For general wear during +business hours.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Overcoat—Chesterfield, Newmarket, Covert or top coat.</p> + +<p>Coat—Sack or morning.</p> + +<p>Waist Coat—Single breasted, with or without a collar, +to match coat or fancy vesting.</p> + +<p>Trousers—To match coat, or striped worsted or cassimere +with morning coat.</p> + +<p>Shirts and Cuffs—White or colored shirt, stiff or soft +bosom, attached cuffs.</p> + +<p>Collars—Wing or high band turndown.</p> + +<p>Neckwear—Once over, Ascot, four-in-hand or Imperial.</p> + +<p>Gloves—Tan or grey.</p> + +<p>Jewelry—Gold links and studs, scarfpin and watch guard.</p> + +<p>Hats—Derby or Alpine with sacks, high silk or derby +with morning coat.</p> + +<p>Shoes—Calfskin, high or low cut.</p> + +<p>Style—Single or double breasted for sacks, chesty athletic<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span> +effect, two or three buttons, morning or English +walking coat with flaps on side.</p> + +<p>Material—Fancy suitings for sacks. Plain or fancy +weave for morning coats. Blue, brown or grey mixtures +for sacks; grey or Oxford for morning dress.</p> +</div> + +<p><b>Seashore and Lounging Dress</b>:—For summer wear only.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Coat—Norfolk or lounge coat.</p> + +<p>Belt—Pig or monkey skin.</p> + +<p>Trousers—To match coat or fancy stripe flannel.</p> + +<p>Shirts—Colored negligee, cuffs attached, Madras or +Oxford.</p> + +<p>Collar—Fold collar.</p> + +<p>Neckwear—Four-in-hand, or soft silk tie.</p> + +<p>Jewelry—Scarfpin, gold links, stud buttons.</p> + +<p>Hats—Straw, Alpine or golf cap.</p> + +<p>Shoes—Low shoes of calfskin.</p> + +<p>Style—Norfolk coat, skeleton lined, single or double +breasted sack.</p> + +<p>Material—Tropical worsted or Tweed, flannel Shetland +or homespun. Brown, grey and mixtures.</p> +</div> + +<p><b>Outing Dress</b>:—For golf and other sports:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> + +<p>Overcoats—Peajacket, short Covert or top coat.</p> + +<p>Coat—Norfolk jacket or lounge coat.</p> + +<p>Waist Coat—Double breasted, with or without collar, +to match coat, flannel or fancy knit.</p> + +<p>Trousers—Knickerbockers, for fall and winter, striped +flannel, Tweed or homespun matching coat for spring +and summer.</p> + +<p>Shirts—Colored negligee, cuffs attached, Madras or Oxford +sweater.</p> + +<p>Collar—Soft fold, self-collar or stock.</p> + +<p>Neckwear—Tie or stock.</p> + +<p>Gloves—Tan or chamois, wool knit, heavy golfing gloves.</p> + +<p>Jewelry—Scarfpin, links, with watch guard.</p> + +<p>Hat—Soft felt or cap.</p> + +<p>Shoes—Calf or russet.</p> + +<p>Style—Norfolk with box plaits, yoke and belt or plain +sack, chesty effect.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span></p> + +<p>Material—Tweeds, flannel, or homespun, brown, grey +and mixtures.</p> +</div> + +<p><b>Driving or Motoring Dress</b>:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Overcoat—Burberry of wax waterproof cloth, or duster +of linen or rubber silk.</p> + +<p>Coat—Norfolk or double breasted sack.</p> + +<p>Waist Coat—Matching coat, flannel or fancy knit.</p> + +<p>Trousers—Knickerbockers or trousers of flannel, Tweed +or homespun, matching coat; breeches and leggings +for motoring.</p> + +<p>Shirts—Fancy flannel. Cheviot or Madras sweater, soft.</p> + +<p>Collar—Soft fold self-collar or stock.</p> + +<p>Neckwear—Stock or tie.</p> + +<p>Gloves—Tan or chamois, soft cape gauntlets, tan or +black for the motor car.</p> + +<p>Jewelry—Links, scarfpin and watch guard.</p> + +<p>Hat—Soft felt or cap, French chauffeur cap with leather +visor for motoring.</p> + +<p>Shoes—Calfskin or russet with leggins for automobiling.</p> + +<p>Style—Semi-Norfolk jacket of wax (waterproof) cloth.</p> + +<p>Material—Tweed, flannel or homespun, Oxford, grey +or tan.</p> +</div> + +<p><b>Women's Dress</b>:</p> + +<p>Formal dress, for all occasions after six o'clock—weddings, +receptions, formal dinners, theater and balls, high +neck, long skirt, hat, coat, and gloves, and evening slippers.</p> + +<p>For morning and afternoon wear, the tailor made suit +with short skirt; for afternoon, the long skirt, hat, high +dress walking boot, patent leather, lace or button with +cloth tops.</p> + +<p>For outing wear, the coat sweater for skating, golfing, +and hockey.</p> + +<p>For misses' and children's dresses made of the same +material, short skirts; the coats may cover the dress, or +may be three-quarters or seven-eighths long, may be single +or double breasted, to button high around the neck or +roll low.</p> + +<p>For house wear, the plain tailored shirt waist suit in becoming +colors are good form.</p> + +<p>For school and street wear, the short skirt, coat three-quarters<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span> +or seven-eighths long and made of rough material +is the more stylish, and is made in a variety of styles.</p> + +<p>Gloves for evening wear, Suede, Mousquetaire, elbow +and above; length arranging in buttons from eight to +twenty-four. In tan, mode, slate, pearl, lavender, yellow, +black, and white.</p> + +<p>Walking gloves, Havana, Smyrna, tan, oak and mahogany, +with two or three buttons, clasps.</p> + +<p>Auto gauntlets, buck and cape skin gauntlets in slate, +oak and black.</p> + +<p>For automobiling, double and single breasted long +loose coats, made in a variety of styles, water and dust +proof, plain or fancy trimmed, with wind cuffs inside of +sleeves, with velvet collars and cuffs.</p> + +<p>Material used are rubber faced goods, Mohairs, Chambrays, +Satins, Oxfords and Tan plaids, changeable silks +and Crepe de Chines.</p> + +<p>When selecting goods for dresses or jackets, bear in +mind that stripes lengthen, plaids, checks and light materials +broaden, and enlarge the person's appearance.</p> + +<p><b>Boys' and youths' clothing from four to eighteen.</b> +The materials used for boys' suits, include all the staple +cloths, such as unfinished worsteds in stripes and plaids, +tweeds, dark and blue serge, plain cheviots, and Scotch +mixtures, homespun and corduroy.</p> + +<p>The sailor suit is more suitable for the younger boy, +and may be made of various materials, such as white, blue, +and brown serge or cheviot, and trimmed with braid in +a variety of styles, as occasion require and surroundings +permit.</p> + +<p>The most favorite style for the boy who has outgrown +the sailor suit, is the Norfolk coat, single or double breasted, +with double or single box plaits, made with or without +straight or pointed yoke.</p> + +<p>The next in popularity, comes the double or single +breasted sack coat; with this and the above, bloomers may +be worn, finished at the knee with a buckled band.</p> + +<p>The straight trousers are much worn and preferred by +some boys, and are considered more dressy when worn +with a plaited skirt bosom with attached cuffs, pointed +Eaton collar, and a narrow four-in-hand scarf and patent +or dull leather shoes.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span>For every day wear, the plain negligee shirt with yoke +back and attached cuffs are worn. With this style shirt, +the younger boys from eight to twelve, wear the stiff linen +or soft white pique, Eaton collar with round or square +corners, or a turn down collar of which the latter is most +popular.</p> + +<p>The Windsor bow or the narrow four-in-hand scarf +may be worn with the Eaton collar.</p> + +<p>For outing, a soft flannel negligee style made perfectly +plain, with straight attached or the new turn back cuffs, a +soft turn down collar attached to the shirt is preferred by +some, while others wear the separate linen collar, and have +the neck band finished plain. This style of white turndown +collar may be worn on all occasions until the age +of eighteen, at which time, he may wear almost any style +on the maturer man, providing his size will permit.</p> + +<p>The plaited shirt bosom is the more dressy style, and +may be of white or light colors, with stripes and figures or +in solid colors. Young boys do not wear attached cuffs +until they are twelve years old, and only then if full grown.</p> + +<p>For small parties, dancing classes or weddings, a boy +under sixteen may wear a dark blue serge double breasted +sack suit or the Norfolk style with bloomers or straight +trousers.</p> + +<p>A plain white or finely striped white plaited shirt with +turn-over collar and dark narrow four-in-hand scarf is in +good taste with dull leather or patent leather Oxfords.</p> + +<p><b>Boys' overgarments</b>:—For boys up to twelve, wear +the straight double breasted box overcoat; for the older +boy, they may be semi-fitting and slightly tapering at the +waist, and medium length; storm coats are very long and +much box, the materials include fancy Tweeds, Diagonals, +Cheviots, Beaver and Kerseys.</p> + +<p>At the age of fifteen or sixteen, a boy will require a +more distinctive type of evening dress, and for these, the +Tuxedo or Dinner Coat is most recommended. The +Tuxedo or Dinner Suit may be made of unfinished worsted, +diagonal, twills, in black or dark blue, with pointed lapels +or shawn collar, silk or satin faced to the edge, and finished +with one button.</p> + +<p>A black or grey vest may be worn with black tie, but +if the occasion be very formal, a white vest and white tie +may be substituted, with patent leather pumps.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span>After a boy has reached the age of eighteen or nineteen, +he may adopt the styles of men in scarfs, waist coats, +evening clothes, gloves, etc.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>LESSON XII.</h2> + +<h3>BUSINESS ETIQUETTE.</h3> + + +<p>Business etiquette. Your duty to your customer requires +you to treat them with respect, to do the work to +the best of your ability, to give them the best work of your +head and hands, and to treat your customers with politeness +to show a disposition to please and be a lady or gentleman +at all times.</p> + +<p>Be independent, but not impertinent.</p> + +<p>Do your best to please your customers. Never +promise to have garments finished at a given time unless +you intend to have them finished at the time promised, +and never disappoint a customer if it can possibly be +avoided.</p> + +<p>Never misrepresent. A reputation for integrity is +of almost or quite as much value in your business as a +reputation for skill and taste.</p> + +<p>Your most valuable customers are refined ladies and +gentlemen; you will do well therefore to bear in mind that +gentlemen love gentlemen.</p> + +<p>Do not breathe in a customer's face.</p> + +<p>Dress well, and let your linen be clean; your garments +kept well cleaned, pressed and repaired.</p> + +<p>Your appearance is a part of your capital in the way +of getting business.</p> + +<p>When you have garments that have been ready for +customers one month, notify them, saying that you will +hold them for thirty days longer. Say that in the meantime +you wish they would call for them.</p> + +<p>Everything for the cleaning, repairing and pressing +of clothes may be had at this office. Send samples or explanation +of what is required and price list will be forwarded +to any address. These goods are sold at the lowest +possible margin of profit for handling same, and only +to those of our students who have bought the method.</p> + +<p>The following is a partial list of what may be had:</p> + +<p>Press-jacks, tables, irons, sponge cloths prepared, +brushes, scissors, sewing machines, mirrors, desks, chairs,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span> +coat, vest, trouser, jacket, and skirt hangers, racks to hang +clothes on, chalk, needles, thimbles, tape measures, basting +cotton, linen thread, silk thread, buttonhole twist, buttons +for coats, vests and trousers to match cloth. Sleeve +linings for undercoats, vests, overcoats, waist band lining +for trousers, for ladies' jackets and coats. All kinds of +silk and satins for body linings, heavy silk facings, for +Tuxedos, Prince Alberts, and dress coats; velvet collars, +any size, silesias, sateens, rubber tissue, buckles, haircloth, +canvas, beeswax, cleaning fluids, moth preventative, and +anything used by the cleaner and presser.</p> +<p> </p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 308px;"> +<img src="images/icover2.jpg" width="308" height="500" alt="Cover" title="Cover" /> + +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div class='tnote'><h3>Transcriber's Notes:</h3> +<p>Apparent spelling and printer's errors normalised.</p> + +<p>Index had entries for pages 20 and 21 (including page numbers) +reversed in the original.</p></div> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Copeland Method, by Vanness Copeland + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE COPELAND METHOD *** + +***** This file should be named 34186-h.htm or 34186-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/4/1/8/34186/ + +Produced by Julia Neufeld and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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