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diff --git a/34110.txt b/34110.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3fb7a17 --- /dev/null +++ b/34110.txt @@ -0,0 +1,4567 @@ +Project Gutenberg's Deadfalls and Snares, by A. R. (Arthur Robert) Harding + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Deadfalls and Snares + A Book of Instruction for Trappers About These and Other Home-Made Traps + +Author: A. R. (Arthur Robert) Harding + +Release Date: October 21, 2010 [EBook #34110] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DEADFALLS AND SNARES *** + + + + +Produced by Linda M. Everhart, Blairstown, Missouri + + + + +DEADFALLS AND SNARES + + [Frontispiece: A GOOD DEADFALL.] + + + +DEADFALLS AND SNARES + +A Book of Instruction for Trappers +About These and Other +Home-Made Traps + +Edited by +A. R. HARDING + +Published by +A. R. HARDING, Publisher +106 Walnut Street +St. Louis, Mo. + +Copyright 1907 +By A. R. HARDING + + + +CONTENTS. + + I. Building Deadfalls + II. Bear and Coon Deadfall + III. Otter Deadfall + IV. Marten Deadfall + V. Stone Deadfall + VI. The Bear Pen + VII. Portable Traps + VIII. Some Triggers + IX. Trip Triggers + X. How to Set + XI. When to Build + XII. Where to Build + XIII. The Proper Bait + XIV. Traps Knocked Off + XV. Spring Pole Snare + XVI. Trail Set Snare + XVII. Bait Set Snare + XVIII. The Box Trap + XIX. The Coop Trap + XX. The Pit Trap + XXI. Number of Traps + XXII. When to Trap + XXIII. Season's Catch + XXIV. General Information + XXV. Skinning and Stretching + XXVI. Handling and Grading + XXVII. From Animal to Market + XXVIII. Steel Traps + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. + + A Good Deadfall + The Pole Deadfall + Small Animal Fall + The Pinch Head + Board or Pole Trap + Bait Set Deadfall + Trail Set Deadfall + Bear or Coon Deadfall + Otter Deadfall + Marten Deadfall + Marten Trap Triggers + Another Marten Deadfall + High Built Marten Deadfall + Tree Deadfall + More Marten Trap Triggers + Flat Stone Trap + Stone Deadfall Triggers + The Invitation--Skunk + Killed Without Scenting + Right and Wrong Way + Bear Pen Trap + Bear Entering Pen + Den Set Deadfall + Portable Wooden Trap + The Block Trap + The Nox-Em-All Deadfall + Illinois Trapper's Triggers + Trip Triggers + Animal Entering Trip Deadfall + Trip Trigger Fall + Canadian Trip Fall + The Turn Trigger + Two Piece Trigger Trap + String and Trigger Trap + Trail or Den Trap + Spring Pole and Snare + Small Game Snare + Wire or Twine Snare + Snare Loop + Path Set Snare + Trip Pan or Plate + Double Trail Set + Trail Set Snares + Path Snare + Rat Runway Snare + Underground Rat Runway + Runway and Cubby Set + Log Set Snare + Cow Path Snare + Lifting Pole Snare + Bait Set Snare + The Box Trap + The Coop Trap + The Pit Trap + A Good Catcher + Single and Three Board Stretcher + Some Stretching Patterns + Dakota Trappers Method + Holder for Skinning + Wire Coon Method + Wire and Twig Coon Method + Size of Stretching Boards + Pole Stretchers + Fleshing Board + Stretching Frame + Skin on Stretcher + Hoop Stretcher + Small Steel Traps + No. 81 or Web Jaw Trap + No. 91 or Double Jaw Trap + Mink and Fox Traps + Otter and Beaver Traps + Otter Traps with Teeth + Otter Trap without Teeth + Offset Jaw Beaver Trap + Clutch Detachable Trap + Newhouse Wolf Trap + Small Bear Trap + Small Bear Trap with Offset Jaw + Black Bear Trap + Regular Bear Trap with Offset Jaws + Grizzly Bear Trap + Bear Chain Clevis + Steel Trap Setting Clamp + + [Illustration: A. R. HARDING.] + + + +INTRODUCTION. + +Scattered from the Arctic Ocean to the Gulf of Mexico and from the +Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean are thousands of trappers who use +deadfalls, snares and other home-made traps, but within this vast +territory there are many thousand who know little or nothing of them. + +The best and most successful trappers are those of extended +experience. Building deadfalls and constructing snares, as told on +the following pages, will be of value to trappers located where +material--saplings, poles, boards, rocks, etc.--is to be had for +constructing. The many traps described cannot all be used to +advantage in any section, but some of them can. + +More than sixty illustrations are used to enable the beginner to +better understand the constructing and workings of home-made traps. +The illustrations are mainly furnished by the "old timers." + +Chapters on Skinning and Stretching, Handling and Grading are added +for the correct handling of skins and furs adds largely to their +commercial value. + +A. R. Harding. + + + +DEADFALLS AND SNARES + + + +CHAPTER I. + +BUILDING DEADFALLS. + +During the centuries that trapping has been carried on, not only in +America, but thruout the entire world, various kinds of traps and +snares have been in use and taken by all classes of trappers and in +all sections the home-made traps are of great numbers. The number of +furs caught each year is large. + +The above was said by a trapper some years ago who has spent upwards +of forty years in the forests and is well acquainted with traps, +trappers and fur-bearing animals. Whether the statement is true or +not, matters but little, altho one thing is certain and that is that +many of the men who have spent years in trapping and have been +successful use the deadfalls and snares as well as steel traps. + +Another trapper says: In my opinion trapping is an art and any +trapper that is not able to make and set a deadfall, when occasion +demands, does not belong to the profession. I will give a few of the +many reasons why dead falls are good. + +1. There is no weight to carry. + +2. Many of the best trappers use them. + +3. It requires no capital to set a line of deadfalls. + +4. There is no loss of traps by trap thieves, but the fur is in as +much danger. + +5. Deadfalls do not mangle animals or injure their fur. + +6. It is a humane way of killing animals. + +7. There is no loss by animals twisting off a foot or leg and getting +away. + +8. Animals are killed outright, having no chance to warn others of +their kind by their cries from being caught. + +9. Trappers always have the necessary outfit (axe and knife) with +them to make and set a deadfall that will kill the largest animals. + +10. The largest deadfalls can be made to spring easy and catch small +game if required. + +11. Deadfalls will kill skunk without leaving any scent. + +12. Deadfalls are cheap and trappers should be familiar with them. + +It is a safe proposition, however, that not one-half of the trappers +of today can build a deadfall properly or know how to make snares, +and many of them have not so much as seen one. + +First a little pen about a foot square is built of stones, chunks, or +by driving stakes close together, leaving one side open. The stakes +should be cut about thirty inches long and driven into the ground +some fourteen inches, leaving sixteen or thereabout above the ground. +Of course if the earth is very solid, stakes need not be so long, but +should be so driven that only about sixteen inches remain above +ground. A sapling say four inches in diameter and four feet long is +laid across the end that is open. A sapling that is four, five or six +inches in diameter, owing to what you are trapping for, and about +twelve feet long, is now cut for the "fall." Stakes are set so that +this pole or fall will play over the short pole on the ground. These +stakes should be driven in pairs; two about eighteen inches from the +end; two about fourteen farther back. (See illustration.) + + [Illustration: THE POLE DEADFALL.] + +The small end of the pole should be split and a small but stout stake +driven firmly thru it so there will be no danger of the pole turning +and "going off" of its own accord. The trap is set by placing the +prop (which is only seven inches in length and half an inch thru) +between the top log and the short one on the ground, to which is +attached the long trigger, which is only a stick about the size of +the prop, but about twice as long, the baited end of which extends +back into the little pen. + +The bait may consist of a piece of chicken, rabbit or any tough bit +of meat so long as it is fresh and the bloodier the better. An animal +on scenting the bait will reach into the trap--the top of the pen +having been carefully covered over--between the logs. When the animal +seizes the bait the long trigger is pulled off of the upright prop +and down comes the fall, killing the animal by its weight. Skunk, +coon, opossum, mink and in fact nearly all kinds of animals are +easily caught in this trap. The fox is an exception, as it is rather +hard to catch them in deadfalls. + +The more care that you take to build the pen tight and strong, the +less liable is some animal to tear it down and get bait from the +outside; also if you will cover the pen with leaves, grass, sticks, +etc., animals will not be so shy of the trap. The triggers are very +simple, the long one being placed on top of the upright, or short +one. The long triggers should have a short prong left or a nail +driven in it to prevent the game from getting the bait off too easy. +If you find it hard to get saplings the right size for a fall, and +are too light, they can be weighted with a pole laid on the "fall." + + [Illustration: SMALL ANIMAL FALL.] + +I will try and give directions and drawing of deadfalls which I have +used to some extent for years, writes a Maine trapper, and can say +that most all animals can be captured in them as shown in +illustration. You will see the deadfall is constructed of stakes and +rocks and is made as follows: Select a place where there is game; you +need an axe, some nails, also strong string, a pole four inches or +more in diameter. Notice the cut No. 1 being the drop pole which +should be about six to seven feet long. No. 2 is the trip stick, No. +3 is string tied to pole and trip stick, No. 4 is the stakes for +holding up the weight, No. 5 is the small stakes driven around in the +shape of letter U, should be one foot wide and two feet long. No. 6 +is the rocks, No. 7 is the bait. + +Now this is a great trap for taking skunk and is soon built where +there are small saplings and rocks. This trap is also used for mink +and coon. + + * * * + +The trapper's success depends entirely upon his skill and no one can +expect the best returns unless his work is skillfully done. Do not +Attempt to make that deadfall unless you are certain that you can +make it right and do not leave it till you are certain that it could +not be any better made. I have seen deadfalls so poorly made and +improperly set that they would make angels weep, neither were they +located where game was apt to travel. The deadfall if made right and +located where game frequents is quite successful. + +Another thing, boys, think out every little plan before you attempt +it. If so and so sets his traps one way, see if you can't improve on +his plan and make it a little better. Do not rush blindly into any +new scheme, But look at it on all sides and make yourself well +acquainted with the merits and drawbacks of it. Make good use of your +brains, for the animal instinct is its only protection and it is only +by making good use of your reasoning powers that you can fool him. +Experience may cost money sometimes and loss of patience and temper, +but in my estimation it is the trapper's best capital. An old +trapper who has a couple of traps and lots of experience will catch +more fur than the greenhorn with a complete outfit. Knowledge is +power in trapping as in all other trades. + +This is the old reliable "pinch-head." The picture does not show the +cover, so I will describe it. Get some short pieces of board or short +poles and lay them on the stones in the back part of the pen and on +the raised stick in front. Lay them close together so the animal +cannot crawl in at the top. Then get some heavy stones and lay them +on the cover to weight down and throw some dead weeds and grass over +the pen and triggers and your trap is complete. When the animal tries +to enter and sets off the trap by pressing against the long trigger +in front, he brings the weighted pole down in the middle of his back, +which soon stops his earthly career. + + [Illustration: THE PINCH HEAD.] + +This deadfall can also be used at runways without bait. No pen or +bait is required. The game will be caught coming from either +direction. The trap is "thrown" by the trigger or pushing against it +when passing thru. During snowstorms the trap requires considerable +attention to keep in perfect working order, but at other times is +always in order when placed at runways where it is used without bait. + +The trap can also be used at dens without bait with success. If used +with bait it should be placed a few feet from the den or near any +place frequented by the animal or animals you expect to catch. + +Of course we all admit the steel trap is more convenient and +up-to-date, says a New Hampshire trapper. You can make your sets +faster and can change the steel trap from place to place; of course, +the deadfall you cannot. But all this does not signify the deadfall +is no good; they are good and when mink trapping the deadfall is +good. To the trapper who traps in the same locality every year, when +his deadfalls are once built it is only a few minutes' work to put +them in shape, then he has got a trap for the season. + +I enclose a diagram of a deadfall (called here Log Trap) which, when +properly made and baited, there is no such a mink catcher in the trap +line yet been devised. This trap requires about an hour to make and +for tools a camp hatchet and a good strong jackknife, also a piece of +strong string, which all trappers carry. + +This trap should be about fifteen inches wide with a pen built with +sticks or pieces of boards driven in the ground. (See diagram.) The +jaws of this trap consist of two pieces of board three inches wide +and about three and a half feet long, resting edgeways one on the +other, held firmly by four posts driven in the ground. The top board +or drop should move easily up and down before weights are put on. The +treddle should be set three inches inside level with the top of +bottom board. This is a round stick about three-fourths inch thru, +resting against two pegs driven in the ground. (See diagram.) The +lever should be the same in size. Now put your stout string around +top board. Then set, pass lever thru the string over the cross piece +and latch it in front of the treddle. Then put on weights and adjust +to spring, heavy or light as desired. This trap should be set around +old dams or log jams by the brook, baited with fish, muskrat, rabbit +or chicken. + + [Illustration: BOARD OR POLE TRAP.] + +I herewith enclose a drawing of a deadfall that I use for everything +up to bear, writes a Rocky Mountain trapper, I hate to acknowledge +that I have used it to get "lope" meat with, because I sometimes +believe in firing as few shots as I can in some parts of the +Mountains. + + [Illustration: BAIT SET DEADFALL.] + +Drawing No. 1 shows it used for bait; a snare can be used on it at +the same time by putting the drop or weight where it isn't liable to +fall on the animal. Put the weight on the other side of tree or make +it fall with the animal to one side. In this case a pole must be +strictly used. A good sized rock is all right for small animals. The +closer spikes 1 and 2 are together and the longer the tugger end on +bottom, the easier it will pull off. + +Fig. 1.--Spike driven in tree one-half inch deeper than spike No. 2 +(Fig. No. 2) to allow for notch. + +3--Bait on end of trigger. + +4--Heavy rock or log. + +5--Wire, fine soft steel. + +6--Trigger with notch cut in it. + +7--Notch cut in trigger Fig G. Spike No. 2 must have head cut off and +pounded flat on end. + +In setting it across a trail a peg must be driven in the ground. In +this peg the spikes are driven instead of tree as in drawing No. 1. +The end of brush stick in between peg and trigger end and when an +animal comes either way it will knock the brush and it knocks out the +trigger. Good, soft steel wire should be used In setting this +deadfall along river bank a stout stick can be driven in bank and +hang out over water. This stick will take the place of a limb on +tree. One end of a pole held in a slanting position by weighing one +end down with a rock will do the same as limb on tree. If a tree is +handy and no limb, lean a stout pole up against the tree and cut +notches in it for wire to work on. + + [Illustration: TRAIL SET DEADFALL.] + +1--Trail. + +2--Log. + +3--Trigger same as for bait on top deadfall drawing. + +4--Stake driven in ground with spikes driven in it same as above in +tree. + +5--Spikes same as above. + +6--Wire. + +7--Tree. + +8--Brush put in trail with one end between trigger and peg to knock +off trigger when touched. + +This deadfall has never failed me and when trapping in parts of the +country where lynx, coyote or wolverine are liable to eat marten in +traps, use a snare and it will hang 'em high and out of reach. Snare +to be fastened to trigger. + +Of course a little pen has to be built when setting this deadfall +with bait. In setting in trail it beats any deadfall I have ever used +for such animals as have a nature to follow a trail. A fine wire can +also be tied to the trigger and stretched across trail instead of a +brush and tied on the opposite side of trail. I like it, as the +weight can be put high enough from the ground to kill an elk when it +drops. + + + +CHAPTER II. + +BEAR AND COON DEADFALL. + +I will explain how to make the best bear deadfall, also the best one +for coon that ever was made, writes an old and successful deadfall +trapper. First get a pole six or eight feet long for bed piece, get +another sixteen or eighteen feet long and lay it on top of bed piece. +Now drive two stakes, one on each side of bed piece and pole and near +one end of bed piece. About 18 or 20 inches from first two stakes +drive two more stakes, one on each side of bed piece and fall pole. +Now drive two more stakes directly in front of your two back stakes +and about two inches in front. + +Next cut a stick long enough to come just to the outside of last two +stakes driven. Then whittle the ends off square so it will work easy +between the treadle stakes and the two inside stakes that your fall +works in; next raise your fall pole about three feet high. Get a +stick about one inch thru, cut it so that it will be long enough to +rest against your treadle and that short stick is your treadle when +it is raised above the bed a piece, cut the end off slanting so it +will fit against the treadle good. + + [Illustration: BEAR OR COON DEADFALL.] + +Slant the other end so the fall pole will fit good. Now five or six +inches from the top of the slanted stick cut a notch in your slanted +stick. Go to the back side, lift your pole up, set the post on the +bed piece. Place the top of the slanted stick against the fall pole. +Then place the pole off post in the notch in slant stick. Press back +on bottom of slanted stick and place your treadle against the stick. +Your trap is set. Make V shape on inside of treadle by driving stakes +in the ground, cedar or pine, and hedge it in tight all around. If +such there is not, make it as tight as you can. Cover the top tight, +the cubby should be 3 feet long, 3 feet high and wide as your treadle +stakes. + +Stake the bait near the back end of cubby. Be sure the treadle is +just above the bed piece. Take the pole off the cubby to set the trap +as you have set it from this side. You can set it heavy or light by +regulating the treadle. I sometimes drive spikes in the bed piece and +file them off sharp as it will hold better. You can weight the fall +poles as much as you like after it is set. Don't you see, boys, that +the old fellow comes along and to go in he surely will step on the +treadle. Bang, it was lowered and you have got him. + +This is the best coon deadfall I ever saw. The fall pole for coon +should be about 14 inches high when set. Set it under trees or along +brooks where you can see coon signs. Bait with frogs, crabs or fish, +a piece of muskrat or duck for coon. Build it much the same as for +bear, only much smaller. You will find this a successful trap. + + * * * + +I will describe a deadfall for bear which I use, and which works the +best of any I have tried, says a Montana trapper. I have two small +trees about 30 inches apart, cut a pole 10 feet long for a bed piece +and place in front of trees then cut a notch in each tree about 27 +inches above the bed piece, and nail a good, strong piece across from +one tree to the other in the notches. Cut a long pole five or six +inches through for the deadfall, place the large end on top of bed +log, letting end stick by the tree far enough to place on poles for +weights. + +Then cut two stakes and drive on outside of both poles, and fasten +top of stakes to the trees one foot above the cross piece. Then on +the inside, 30 inches from the trees, drive two more solid stakes +about 2 feet apart and nail a piece across them 6 inches lower than +the cross piece between the trees. Then cut a lever about three feet +long and flatten one end, and a bait stick about two feet long. Cut +two notches 6 inches apart, one square on the top and the other on +the bottom, and both close to the top end of bait stick. + +Fasten bait on the other end and then raise up the deadfall, place +the lever stick across the stick nailed between the two trees, +letting the end run six inches under the deadfall. Take the bait +stick and hook lower notch on the piece nailed on the two stakes and +place end of lever in the top notch, then cut weights and place on +each side until you think you have enough to hold any bear. Then put +on as many more and it will be about right. Stand up old chunks +around the sides and back and lots of green brush on the outside. Get +it so he can't see the bait. + +It doesn't require a very solid pen. I drive about three short stakes +in front and leave them one foot high, so when he pulls back they +will come against him, and the set is complete. You can weight it +with a ton of poles and still it will spring easy. The closer +together the two notches the easier it will spring. + +This trap can be built lighter and is good for coon. In fact, will +catch other fur bearers, but is not especially recommended for small +animals, such as ermine and mink. + + + +CHAPTER III. + +OTTER DEADFALLS. + +At the present day when steel traps are so cheap and abundant it may +sound very primitive and an uncertain way of trapping these animals +for one to advocate the use of the deadfall, especially as every +hunter knows the animal is much more at home in the water than on +land. But on land they go and it was by deadfalls the way-back +Indians killed a many that were in their packs at the end of the +hunting season. + +Of course these wooden traps were not set at haphazard thru the brush +as marten traps, but were set up at the otter slide places, and where +they crossed points in river bends, or it might be where a narrow +strip of land connected two lakes. These places were known from one +generation to another and the old traps were freshened up spring and +fall by some member of the family hunting those grounds. + +These special deadfalls were called otter traps, but really when once +set were open for most any animal of a medium size passing that path. +The writer has known beaver, lynx, fox and in one instance a cub bear +to be caught in one of these deadfalls. There was a simplicity and +usefulness about these traps that commended them to the trapper and +even now in this rush century some hunters might use them with +advantage. + +When once set, they remain so until some animal comes along and is +caught. I say "caught" because if properly erected they rarely miss. +They require no bait and therefore are never out of order by the +depredations of mice, squirrels or moose birds. I knew a man who +caught two otters together. This may sound fishy, but when once a +present generation trapper sees one of these traps set he will +readily believe this apparently impossible result is quite likely to +happen. + +The trap is made thus: Cut four forked young birch about five feet +long, pointing the lower ends and leaving the forks uppermost. Plant +two of these firmly in the ground at each side of the otter path, +three inches apart between them and about twenty inches across the +path. These must be driven very hard in the ground and a throat piece +put in level between the uprights across the path from side to side. +As a choker and to support the weight of logs to kill the otter, cut +a pole (tamarac preferable) long enough to pass three feet each side +of your picket or uprights, see that this falls easy and clear. + + [Illustration: OTTER DEADFALL.] + +Now cut two short poles for the forks to lay in from side to side of +the path, being in the same direction as the choker. At the middle of +one of these short poles tie a good stout cord or rope (the Indians +used split young roots), making a loop of same long enough to lay +over the pole in front and down to the height the choke pole is going +to be. When set, next comes the trigger which must be of hard wood +and about a foot long, round at one end and flat at the other. A +groove is hacked out all around the stick at the round end. This is +to tie the cord to. + +The choke stick is now brought up to say twenty inches from the +ground and rested on top of the trigger. A stick about an inch in +diameter is placed outside the pickets and the flat end of the +trigger is laid in against this. The tied stick to be about eight +inches from the ground. The tying at the end of the trigger being at +one side will create a kind of leverage sufficiently strong to press +hard against the tied stick. Care must be taken, however, to have +this pressure strong enough but not too strong for the animal to set +off. + +Now load each end of the choke stick with small laps of wood to +insure holding whatever may catch. A little loose moss or grass is +placed fluffy under tread stick when set to insure the otter going +over and not under. When he clambers over the tread stick his weight +depresses it, the trigger flies up, letting the loaded bar fall on +his body, which holds him till death. + +While my description of the making of a deadfall for otters is plain +enough to me, yet the novice may not succeed in constructing one the +first time. Still if he is a trapper he will very soon perceive where +any mistake may be and correct it. I have used both steel traps and +deadfalls and altho I do not wish to start a controversy yet I must +say that a deadfall well set is a good trap. For marten on a stump +they are never covered unless with snow, nor is the marten when +caught destroyed by mice. + +Of course, to set a deadfall for otter it must be done in the fall +before the ground is frozen. Once made, however, it can be set up +either spring or fall and will, with a little repairs, last for +years. I am aware the tendency of the age is to progress and not to +use obsolete methods, still even some old things have their +advantages. Good points are not to be sneered at and one of these I +maintain for spring and fall trapping in a district where otter move +about from lake to lake or river to river is the old time Indian +deadfall. + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +MARTEN DEADFALL. + +Having seen a good many descriptions of deadfalls in the H-T-T +lately, writes a Colorado trapper, I thought I would try to show the +kind that is used around here for marten. It is easily made, and can +always be kept above the snow. + +First, cut a pole (z) five or six inches through and twelve feet +long, lay it in the crotch of a tree five feet from the ground. Then +cut two sticks two inches through and fifteen inches long, cut a +notch in each three inches from the top and have the notch in one +slant downwards (B), the other upwards (A). The sticks should be +nailed on each side of the pole (z), the top of which should be +flattened a little. Have the notches about six inches above the top +of the pole. + +Cut another stick 10 inches long (F), cut the top off square and nail +it six inches farther down the pole on the same side as (B), have the +top five inches above the top of pole (Z). Now cut two more sticks +two and one-half feet long (C-D), cut a notch in each two inches from +the top and nail a stick (E) across them in the notches, so they will +be about seven inches apart. Set a straddle of the pole (Z); they +should be two inches farther down the pole than (F). Then cut another +pole (X) ten feet long, lay it under (Z), lift up one end of it and +nail the stick C and D to each side of it. See that when the sticks +C, D and E are lifted up they will fall clear and easily. + + [Illustration: MARTEN DEADFALL.] + +Now cut a bait stick (G) one-half inch through and seven inches long, +sharpened at one end. Cut another stick (H) an inch through and +fifteen inches long, flatten a little on one side. To set the trap +lift up C, D, E and X, and put the end of H under E and rest it on +the top of F, hold down the other end while you put the bait stick +(G) in the notches A and B, then let the end of H come up on the +outside of B against the end of G. Put the bait on the other end of +G; when the end is pulled out of the notch the trap will spring and +spring easily if made properly. Lay a block of wood at the back end +and some small sticks on top, so the animal will have to crawl under +E to get the bait. Muskrat makes the best bait for marten. + + * * * + +When you find a tall straight spruce or something that is pretty +straight (not a balsam) cut it about a foot over your head, says a +Northwestern trapper, or as high as you can. When you have cut it, +split the stump down the center two feet. Be careful doing this, for +you are striking a dangerous blow as I have good cause to know and +remember. Trim out the tree clean and taper off the butt end to make +it enter into split. Drive down into split about fourteen inches. Cut +a crotch into ground or snow solid. + +Now cut the mate of this piece already in, split and put into split +and into crotch on top of other. Have the piece heavy enough to hold +wolverine. See cuts for the rest. Cover bait as shown in cut. I do +not make my trip sticks the same as others, but I am afraid that I +cannot explain it to you. See cuts for this also. Use your own +judgment. Of course you will sometimes find it is not necessary to go +to all this bother. For instance, sometimes you will find a natural +hanger for your trap. Then you don't have to have the long peg or +pole to hold it stiff. + + [Illustration: MARTEN TRAP TRIGGERS.] + +This trap is used heavy enough by some "long line" trappers for +wolverine. They blacken bait and cover as shown in No. 4. In the two +small illustrations the triggers are shown in No. 1 separate and in +No. 2 set. A is the bait and trip stick, B the lever, C is the +upright. B in No. 1 is where the bait should be. + + [Illustration: ANOTHER MARTEN DEADFALL.] + +In No. 3 A is bait, E is pin which fastens deadfall to under pole and +prevents deadfall from turning to one side. F is post to keep under +pole from bending. + +In No. 4 HH are nails which fasten down a springy piece of wood to +keep cover over bait. Cover with fir or spruce boughs. + + * * * + +Another deadfall much used by marten trappers is constructed by +cutting a notch in a tree about a foot in diameter, altho the size of +the tree makes little difference. The notch should be four inches +deep and a foot up and down and as high up as the trapper can +cut--four or five feet. + +Only one pole is needed for this trap as the bottom of the notch cut +answers for the bed or bottom piece. (See illustration.) The pole for +the fall should be four inches or more in diameter and anywhere from +six to ten feet in length, depending upon the place selected to set. + +The end fartherest from the bait or notched tree must be as high as +the notch. This can be done by driving a forked stake into the ground +or by tying that end of the pole to a small tree if there is one +growing at the right place. + + [Illustration: HIGH BUILT MARTEN DEADFALL.] + +If the pole for the fall is larger than the notch is deep, the end +must be flattened so that it will work easy in the notch, as a piece +of wood has been nailed over the notch to hold the fall pole in +place. + +The triggers used are generally the figure 4 and set with bait +pointing as shown. There is no place for the marten to stand while +eating bait, only in shelf, and of course when the spindle is pulled, +down comes the pole killing the animal. + + [Illustration: TREE DEADFALL.] + +This shelf protects the bait and bed piece and the snow does not fill +in between and require so much attention as the one first described. + +This deadfall may also be built on a stump with a small enclosure or +pen and the two-piece trigger used. Most trappers place the bait or +long trigger on bottom pole, when trapping for marten. It will be +readily seen that a marten, to get the bait, will stand between the +"fall" and bed or under pole and of course is caught while trying to +get the bait. + + [Illustration: MORE MARTEN TRAP TRIGGERS.] + +The height that deadfalls for marten should be built depends upon how +deep the snow gets. In the fall and early winter they can be built on +the ground or logs and other fur-bearers are taken as well. + +A few inches of snow will not interfere with the workings of +deadfalls on the ground, but deep snows will. To make catches the +trapper must clean out under the fall pole each round. This is no +small task. The trapper is always on the lookout for suitable places +to construct Marten deadfalls. + +When the snows get several feet deep, and the trapper makes his +rounds on snowshoes, the deadfalls constructed several feet above the +ground are the ones that make the catches. + + + +CHAPTER V. + +STONE DEADFALLS. + +The stone deadfall here described is used by trappers wherever flat +stones can be found and is a good trap to catch skunk, opossum, mink +and other small game in. The trap is made as follows: + +The figure 4 trigger is best for this trap and is made after this +manner: standard (1) is made by cutting a stick five or six inches +long out of hard wood and whittling it to a flat point, but blunt at +one end; (2) is about five inches long with a notch cut within about +one and one-half inches of the end with the other end made square so +that it will fit in (3) which is the bait stick. This is only a +straight stick sixteen or eighteen inches long, while the other end +of the stick should have a small prong on it, a tack driven in, or +something to hold the bait in position. The best way will be to tie +the bait on also. + + [Illustration: FLAT STONE TRAP.] + +After you have found a flat stone weighing from 50 to 100 pounds, +depending upon what game you expect to trap, select the place for the +trap, first place a small flat stone underneath so that your game +will be killed quicker and also so that the upright trigger will not +sink into the ground. Lift up the large, or upper stone, kneeling on +one knee before the stone resting the weight of the stone on the +other. This leaves both hands free to set the trap. This is done by +placing the triggers in the position shown in illustration and then +letting the stone down very easily on the triggers. You should keep +your knee under the stone all the time until you see that it comes +down easily and does not "go off" of its own weight. The bait should +always be put on before the trap is set. This trap will go off easy +and you must be careful that the bait you put on is not too heavy and +will cause the trap to fall of its own accord. + +This trap can be made to catch rabbits which will come in handy to +bait other traps for larger game. In trapping for rabbits bait with +apples, cabbage, etc. + +This trap does not take long to make, as no pen need be built, the +top stone is large enough to strike the animal, making no difference +in what position it gets when after the bait. A stone two or three +inches thick and say thirty inches across and the same length or a +little longer is about the proper size for skunk, opossum, etc., but +of course larger or smaller stones can be used--whatever you find +convenient. + + * * * + +This trap consists of a flat piece of stone supported by three fits +of wood, the whole trouble being in making these three fits right, +and this can be done by carefully comparing the description here +given with illustrations, whenever they are referred to. The parts +are all made of wood about three-eighths of an inch thick. Fig. 1 is +thirteen inches long, with notches about one-sixteenth of an inch +deep cut in its upper side, two of the notches near together and at +one end, and another four and a half inches from the first two. The +latter notch should be cut a little sloping across the stick. + + [Illustration: STONE DEADFALL TRIGGERS.] + +Figure 1 represents a top view and the piece next below it is a side +view of the piece of wood as it should be made, and end fartherest +from the notches being trimmed to a point to hold the bait. This +constitutes the trigger. + +The lever is shown in Fig. 2, the cut above giving a side view and +that below it a bottom view of this part of the trap. The piece of +wood needed for it is six and one-half inches long, one inch wide at +one end, and tapering down to three-sixteenths of an inch at the +other; a notch is cut across the under side one and a half inches +from the wide end. Level off the upper side of the narrow end to +about one-half the original thickness. If the flat stone to be used +is a heavy one, the notch must not be more than 1 inch from the end; +otherwise the leverage on the notches would be greater than is +desirable, tending to hold the parts together too rigidly. + +The upright post, Fig. 3, is seven inches long, slightly forked at +the bottom (to make it stand firm and prevent twisting round when in +use), the upper end beveled from the front backwards at an angle of +about 45 degrees. The front of the upright is the side that would +face a person standing exactly opposite the trap when set. + +On the right side cut a long notch, half the width of the wood in +depth, commencing the hollow slope of the notch one inch from the +lower end and making the square shoulder just three inches from the +bottom of the post; level the shoulder off from the front so as to +leave only a narrow edge. Place the post upright, (see Fig. 4) it's +forked end standing on a small piece of wood or flat stone, to +prevent it from sinking into the ground; bait the pointed end of the +trigger and hold it up horizontally with its middle notch, catching +behind the shoulder of the notch in the upright post; then place the +beveled end of the lever in the notch at the end of trigger, the +notch in the lever laying on the edge of the top of the upright post. + +Lastly, make the stone rest on the top of the lever, arranging the +stone so that the bait will be near the lower end of the stone. + +It is a good plan to hollow out the ground somewhat under where the +stone falls, to allow a space for the pieces of the Fig. 4 to lay +without danger of being broken. The bait, also, should be something +that will flatten easily and not hard enough to tilt the stone up +after it has fallen. + +The trouble with most deadfalls usually set, is in the weight of +stone. When you get one heavy enough it will not trip easy when game +takes hold, and oftentimes break head piece where the head takes hold +of standard. The head piece from stone down to where standard sets in +notch should be fully 2 1/4 inches, so when stone starts to fall it +throws triggers out from under; otherwise, stone will catch and break +them. + + [Illustration: THE INVITATION--SKUNK.] + +Young trappers when you are making triggers preparatory for your +sets, tie each pair together separately as they are finished, then +when you are ready to set there are no misfits. Now we are up to the +bait stick. It should under no condition, be more than 9 inches long, +and oftentimes shorter will answer better. A slotted notch on one end +the width of triggers, and sharpened at the other, is all that is +necessary. Then the bait will lay on the foundation of trap within 5 +or 6 inches of front of the trap. Don't put bait away back under +stone. You loose all the force when it falls. + +In building foundations for traps the utmost caution should be +exercised in getting them good and solid. (See how well you can do it +instead of how quick.) Begin in the fall before the trapping season +is on, locate and build your trap, and be sure the top stone is +plenty heavy, raise it up and let it fall several times. If it comes +together with the bang of a wolf trap and will pinch a hair, so much +the better. + +To illustrate: While squirrel shooting one morning in the fall of +1905, I was standing on a ledge where I used to trap for coons, and I +happened to remember of a trap underneath me. I just thought I would +see if it was there. I went down and kicked away the drifted leaves +and found it intact and ready for business. When I lifted it up the +foundation was as solid as the day I put it there, and that was in +the fall of 1890, and I want to say right here that it took all the +strength I had to set it. + + [Illustration: KILLED WITHOUT SCENTING ] + +Trappers, if you will try one or more of the above described +deadfalls for those skunk, I think you can tie their pelts about your +neck for protection cold mornings, and none will be the wiser as far +as smell goes, provided, however, you put some obstruction to the +right and left of the trap so it will compel his skunkship to enter +direct in front, and then carefully adjust the length of bait stick +so stone will crush him about the heart. I have taken quite a lot of +skunk and very few ever scented where the head and heart were under +stone, writes an Ohio trapper. + +I always had a preference for above described traps for many reasons, +yet if you live where there is no stone, you are not in it. + + * * * + +Deadfalls come in handy sometimes and with no cost whatever--unless +the cost is building them. Will send two illustrations of the stone +deadfalls writes a successful deadfall trapper. Will say that there +is a right and a wrong way to set the deadfall. If you want to make +sure of your catch never set your deadfall flat with short triggers +shaped like figure 4, but make long triggers instead and have the +weight or choker sit almost upright and draw the top trigger close to +the one that it rests on at the bottom. In this way you have a trap +that will be very easy to touch off. + + [Illustration: RIGHT AND WRONG WAY.] + +The way that some set their deadfalls the animal can remove bait +without being caught, simply because they draw the bait out from +under the trap and stand far enough away to be out of danger of being +caught. I can take a two hundred pound weight and set a deadfall that +will catch a small field mouse but it would not do to have them knock +that easy for you will get game that is too small to handle. + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +THE BEAR PEN. + +I will give a description of a bear pen, writes a Canadian trapper. +The bottom of the floor is made first of two logs about (1-1) nine +feet long and nine or ten inches thick. They are placed side by side +as shown in cut and two other logs (2-2) nine feet long and eighteen +inches in thickness are placed one on each side of the bottom logs. +Then cut two short logs about twelve or fourteen inches thick and +long enough to reach across the pen and extend about six inches over +each side. Notch these down, as shown in cut (3-3) so that the top of +the logs are about three or four inches higher than the sides. + +Cut notches in the top of these logs so that when logs 4-4 will lay +solid on top of the other side logs. If they don't lie solid enough +bore holes in the ends of the short logs and drive wooden pins in the +holes. The top of the short logs and the inside of the long logs +should be flattened and a short block (5) fitted loosely in one end, +and the other end should be closed by a block driven down in notches +cut in the sides of 4-4, as shown in small cut. The top of the block +(6) should be about five inches lower than the top of the side logs. +Notches are next cut in the side logs, directly over this block, so +that when the roller (7) is in place, it will fit down snugly on this +block. The roller is about five inches thick and should turn easily +in the notches. + + [Illustration: BEAR PEN TRAP.] + +The next step is to make the lid. It should be made of two logs of +such a size that they will entirely close the top of the trap. They +are notches down and pinned onto the roller and block 5. These logs +should project over rear end of pen about four or five feet. Before +pinning these logs in places, a hole should be made for the bait +stick, half of it being cut in each log. Pins should be driven in the +side logs, over the roller, so that the bear cannot raise the lid. +Two crotches are then cut and set up at the sides of the trap and +spiked solid to the sides. A short pole is then placed in the +crotches and a long pole, running lengthwise of the trap, is fastened +to the lid at one end with wire and the other ends fits into a notch +in the bait stick when the trap is set. The bait stick has a spike +driven thru it on the inside of the trap to keep it from pulling +thru. + +To set the trap, pile stones on the end of the lid until it will tip +easily, then put a pole thru under lid and go inside and fasten the +bait on the bait stick. Then pull the long pole down and hook it into +the notch in the bait stick. Remove the stones from lid and take the +pole from under it and the trap is set and ready for the first bear +that comes along. If the lid does not seem heavy enough, pile stone +on it. A trap of this kind may be made by two men in half a day and +will be good for a number of years. + + * * * + +The log trap is one of the very best methods of taking the bear, it +beats the deadfall all to nothing, says an old and experienced Ohio +bear trapper. It is a sure shot every time; I have never known it to +fail except where the pen had stood for a number of years and become +rotten. In a case of that kind the bear would have no difficulty in +gnawing his way out. This trap or pen, as I shall call it, has been +time tried and bear tested. My father used to make these traps and +many is the time when a boy I have ridden on horseback upon a narrow +path, cut for the purpose of letting a horse pass along and on +nearing the pen heard the growling and tearing around of the bear in +the pen and the hair on my head would almost crowd my hat off. + +Go about building it this way: First select the spot where you have +reason to believe that bear inhabit; now having made your selection, +get a level place and on this spot lay a course of logs with the top +flattened off; this may be eight by three feet. This being done, +commence to lay up the house of logs six to eight inches in diameter. +Three sides of each log should be flattened; these will be the top, +bottom and the inside. It is necessary this be done, for they must +fit closely together in order that the bear cannot get a starting +place to gnaw. This is why I suggest that the inside of the log be +flattened. It is a well-known fact that you can put any gnawing +animal into a square box and he cannot gnaw out for he cannot get the +starting point. + +Lay a short log first, then a long one, notching each corner as you +go so the logs will fit closely together. Now for the front corners; +drive a flattened stake into the ground, letting the flattened side +come against the logs. Now as you proceed to lay on a course of logs +pin thru the stake into each log. Now go on up until you get a height +of about four feet, then lay on, for the top, a course of short logs +commencing at the back end. + +Between the second and third logs cut out a little notch and flatten +the under side of this log around the notch; this is to receive the +trigger, which is made of a small pole about three inches thick. Put +this into the hole and let it come down within ten inches of the +floor. Then cut a notch in the side facing the front of the pen and +so it will fit up against the under side of the leg with the notch +in; now you may make a notch in the trigger about six inches above +the top of the pen and on the same side of the trigger that the first +notch was made. Now the trigger is ready except adjusting the bait. + + [Illustration: BEAR ENTERING PEN.] + +Next lay a binder on top of the pen and upon either end of the short +course of logs; pin the binders at either end so the bear cannot +raise the top off the pen. You may also lay on three or four logs to +weight it down and make it doubly sure. You may pin the first short +top log in front to the side logs to keep the front of the pen from +spreading. Now we have the body of the pen complete. + +The door is the next thing in order. The first or bottom log ought to +be twelve feet long, but it is not necessary for the balance of them +to be that length; flatten the top and bottom of each log so they +will lie tight together, also flatten off the inside of the door so +it will work smoothly against the end of the pen. Lay the logs of the +door onto the first or long log, putting a pin in each end of the +logs as you lay them on. Go on this way until you have enough to +reach the height of the pen and fully cover the opening. + +Another way of fastening the door together is to get the logs all +ready, then lay them upon the ground and pin two pieces across the +door. Either way will do. Now the door being in readiness, put it in +its place and drive two stakes in the ground to keep the animal from +shoving the door away. If these do not appear to be solid enough to +support the door against an onslaught, you may cut a notch in the +outside of the stake near the top; get a pole eight feet in length, +sharpen the ends, letting one end come in the notch of the stake and +the other into the ground; this will hold the door perfectly solid. +Cut a slight notch in the top log of the door for the end of the +spindle and the next move is to raise the door to the proper height. +Set a stud under the door to keep it from falling. Get your spindle +ready, flatten the top of either end a little, then cut a stanchion +just the right length to set under the spindle on the first top log. + +Tie your bait onto the lower end of the trigger, one man going inside +to put the trigger in the proper place. To facilitate the springing +of the trap, lay a small round stick in the upper notch of the +trigger, letting the end of the spindle come up under the stick and +as the bear gets hold of the meat on the bottom of the trigger the +least pull will roll the trigger from the end of the spindle. +However, it will spring very easily as the stanchion under the end of +the spindle is so near the end. + +This kind of trap can be made by two men in one day or less, and it +often happens that the hunter and trapper wants to set a trap for +bear a long way from any settlement or road. The carrying of a fifty +pound bear trap a distance of twenty or thirty miles is no little +task. Then again, this trap costs nothing but a little time and the +trapper's whole life is given over to time. One man can make this +trap alone and set it, but it is better for two to work together in +this work, for in case the door should spring upon him while he was +inside he would be forever lost. I have caught two wildcats at once +in this pen, but it is not to be expected that you will get more than +one bear or other large animal at a time. + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +PORTABLE TRAPS. + +In describing a portable deadfall, an Indiana trapper writes as +follows: We took a piece of sawed stuff 2 x 4, say 5 feet long, then +another the same size and length. For upright pieces to hold the main +pieces so one would fall square on the other, we used sawed stuff 1 x +3, two pieces set straight up and down at each end, or about far +enough to leave the back end stick out three inches, and front end or +end where the triggers set, 6 inches. + +Nail these 1 x 3 two on each end as directed above, nail to lower +piece 2 x 4 only, then at back end bore a hole through the two +uprights and also upper 2 x 4, or the piece that falls, put a bolt +through, or a wood pin if the hole in the 2 x 4 is larger than those +through the uprights; then you are ready to raise it up and let it +"drop" to see whether it works smoothly or not. + +Better nail a block 2 x 4 between the tops of the uprights to keep +them from spreading apart, then it is ready all except the triggers +and string for them to run against. It is portable, you can pick it +up and move it anywhere, only a stake or two needed driven down on +each side. Where string is shown as tied to little bush should be a +small stake. + + [Illustration: DEN SET DEADFALL.] + + * * * + +"SHEAR TRAP." + +I send a drawing of a trap called the "Shear Trap," writes an Eastern +trapper. This is not a new trap, neither is it my own invention. I +have used this style and can recommend it to be O. K., cheap, easy +made, light to move, will last and will catch most any small animal. + +This trap is made as follows: Take 4 strips of board 4 feet 4 inches +long, by 3 inches wide. Bore one inch hole two inches from end of all +four of them. Now make two rounds about 13 inches long and put two of +the boards on each side of the round. At the other end put the two +middle boards on the other round (see illustration). Make one other +round fifteen inches long, same size as the others. Put the two +outside boards on it, forming two separate frames at the other +end--so the two inside boards can turn on the round to which they are +coupled. + + [Illustration: PORTABLE WOODEN TRAP.] + +Take two strips three inches wide, two feet and six inches long. Bore +one inch hole two inches from the top end and put round broom stick +thru it seventeen inches long. Fasten all the rounds by wedges or +small wooden pins. Stand the two strips last mentioned on the outside +of the frame at the end they separate and make them fast so as to +stand perpendicular. For bait stick take lathe or one-half inch board +one inch wide. Bore hole as shown in cut (figure 6) cut notch (figure +2). For trigger any stick 18 inches long, 5/8 inch thick will do: tie +string 2 inches from end and tie other end at figure 1, pass the +short end under round from the outside (figure 3) and catch in notch +in bait lath (figure 2), the other end bait at figure 4. Put weight +at figure 5. Cover trap at figure 6 to keep animal from going in from +back up to figure 7. For bait I use fresh fish, muskrat, bird, etc., +and scent with honey or blood. + + * * * + +THE BARREL TRAP. + +I promised in my last letter to describe the barrel trap, says a +Northwestern trapper, which I use for capturing rats. Other trappers +may have used this trap for years, but I only mean this for the young +trappers who know nothing about this trap. + +Take any kind of an old barrel made of hard wood (a salt barrel makes +a good one), and fix a board on one side of the top with a hinge. Let +one end of the barrel project out directly over the barrel to within +about 5 or 6 inches of the other side. Arrange it so that the end of +the board not over the barrel is a little the heaviest so when the +rat tilts down the end in the barrel it will come back to place +again. + +Place a bit of parsnip apple, or celery near the end of the board +over the barrel so when the rat reaches his front feet over on the +board it will tilt down and let him in the barrel to stay. Bury the +barrel near a river or creek to within about 2 or 3 inches of top of +barrel, so there will be from 6 inches to 1 foot of water in the +barrel. If there is much water in the barrel the most of the rats +will be dead when you visit your traps. Several may be captured in +one night in this kind of a trap. + + * * * + +BLOCK TRAP. + +Saw a small log in blocks from 4 to 6 inches long. Bore an inch hole +through the center. Take nails and drive them so that they form a +"muzzle" in one end and have the nails very sharp. Fasten your blocks +with a piece of wire and put it in the runway or on a log or anywhere +that a coon will see it, and nine out of ten will put his foot into +it. I bait with honey. I caught 75 or 80 coons this season with +"block" snares. + +I put stoppers or false bottoms in one end of the block, piece of +corn cob or anything will do. Cut the foot off to get the animal out +of this snare. + + [Illustration: THE BLOCK TRAP.] + +The illustration shows a square block with the hole bored in the +side. This is done to better show how it should be done, although +when set, the hole should be up. Bait with a piece of fresh rabbit, +frog, or anything that coon are fond of. + +Instead of the blocks the auger hole can be bored in a log or root of +a tree if a suitable one can be found where coon frequent. + + * * * + +THE "NOXEMALL" DEADFALL. + +The best material is spruce, but if spruce is not to be had, hard +wood is better than soft. Follow directions closely; never use old, +dozy wood; good, sound, straight-grained material is the cheapest to +use. A good way to get your material is to go to the saw-mill, select +good straight-grained 2 x 4 studding, have them ripped lengthwise +again, making four strips out of the original 2 x 4, each strip being +two inches wide by one inch thick; then have them cut in the +lengths--two standards (A), 14 inches long; (B) two side pieces, 2 +1/2 feet long; (C) two drop bars, 2 1/2 feet. Bore a hole in each +piece with a one inch bit, two inches from the end of the piece to +the center of the hole. (D) A piece of lath about 8 inches long, with +one end beveled off to fit in slot of E; tie a piece of small rope, +about a foot long, two inches from the other end. (E) A piece of +lath, 2 1/2 feet long, with a slot cut crosswise two inches from one +end and a piece of rope tied two inch from the other end, about a +foot long. + + [Illustration: THE NOX-EM-ALL DEADFALL.] + +If you get your material at the mill have four rounds (F) turned out +of oak or maple (must be hard wood), three of them being 12 inches +long, one being 8 inches long, 7/8 inch in diameter. They must be +some smaller than the hole, as they swell when wet. + +Your trap is now ready to put together. Take one 12 inch round slip +on the side pieces B first, then the two standards A; next place a 12 +inch round in the holes in the top of the standards. The front end of +the trap is done, except fastening the standards to the round and the +setting apparatus to the top round of standards. Next take the +remaining 12 inch round slip on the drop bars C first, then the side +pieces B outside; next place the short round G in the front end of +drop bar C. + +You can drive nails thru the outside pieces and the round. Where +there are two pieces on a side on one round, fasten thru the outside +piece, always leaving the inside piece loose so that it will turn on +the round. A much better way, altho it is more work, is to bore a +hole thru the side piece and round and drive in a hard wood plug. +This is the best way, because if any part of the trap breaks you can +knock out the plug much easier than to pull out a nail. The holes +should be bored with a 1/4 inch bit. + +Tie the rope attached to E to the rear round, leaving two inches +play, between E and the round. Tie the rope attached to D to the top +round of standards, leaving two inches play at top and two inches +between lower end of D and bottom round. + +First place a stone on the drop bar, weighing 20 pounds. Then raise +the drop bar high enough so that you can place the short lath under +the round of drop so that the weight rests on the rope. These is the +secret of setting. The pressure on top forces the lower end to fly +up. Now place the beveled end of the short lath in the slot of the +long lath and the trap is set. + +Hang your bait from the drop bars, under the weight, about eight +inches from the front. The game will then come to the side of the +trap. Never tie bait on the lath. + +Set the trap in front of the hole, block up by setting up two stones +V shape on the upper side of hole, forcing game thru the trap to +enter or come out. + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +SOME TRIGGERS. + +During my trapping experiences I remember of visiting an old +trapper's deadfalls and at that time I had never seen or used any +trigger other than the figure 4, but this trapper used the prop and +spindle. I looked at several of his traps; in fact, went considerably +out of my way to look at some eight or ten of them. Two of these +contained game--a skunk and opossum. I had often heard of these +triggers, but was skeptical about them being much good. I now saw +that these triggers were all right and on visiting my traps again set +a few of them with these triggers. Since that time I have never used +the figure 4. + +The prop and spindle I know will look to many too hard to "go off," +but they can be set so that they will go off fairly easy. It is not +necessary that the trap be set so that the least touch will make it +go off. It is best to have the trap set so that mice nibbling at bait +will not throw it. + +Trappers who have never used the deadfall will, no doubt, find that +after they use them a short time and become better acquainted with +their construction and operation that they will catch more game than +at first. This is only natural as all must learn from experience +largely, whether at trapping or anything else. + +The prop is a straight piece about seven inches long and about +one-half inch in diameter. The spindle, or long trigger, is about the +size of the prop, but should be sixteen or eighteen inches long with +a prong cut off within two inches of the end to help hold the bait on +more securely. See cut elsewhere showing these triggers and of the +figure likewise. These illustrations will give a better idea of how +the triggers are made to those who have never seen or used them. + + * * * + +I saw some time ago where a brother wanted to know how to make a +deadfall, writes an Illinois trapper. I send a picture of one that I +think is far ahead of any that I have seen in the H-T-T yet, that is, +the triggers. I have seen deadfall triggers that would catch and not +fall when the bait was pulled at, but there is no catch to these. + +Trigger No. 1 is stub driven in the ground with a notch cut in the +upper end for end of bait. Stick No. 5 to fit in No. 3 is another +stub driven in ground for bait stick No. 5 to rest on top. No. 3 is a +stick, one end laid on top of bait stick outside of stub No. 2, the +other end on top of lower pole. No. 4 is the prop stick. One end is +set on stick No. 3 about one inch inside the lower pole the other end +underneath the upper pole. The X represents the bait. When the bait +stick is pulled out of notch in stub No. 1, the upper pole comes down +and has got your animal. + + [Illustration: ILLINOIS TRAPPER'S TRIGGERS.] + +If you find your bait is caught between the poles you may know the +bait is not back in the box far enough. If you find the trap down and +bait and bait stick gone, you may know that the bait is too far back. +The animal took his whole body in before he pulled the bait. + +I have tried to describe this trap for the ones that don't know how +to make a deadfall. + +Somebody wants to know how to make a good deadfall. Well the plans +published in back numbers of H-T-T are all right except the figure +four sticks and bait. Make your sticks like this, and you will be +pleased with the way they work, says an experienced trapper. + + [Illustration: TRIP TRIGGERS.] + +No. 2 flat view. The trigger sets in the slanting cut in side of No. +2. Don't put bait on trigger. Put it in back end of pen and pin it to +the ground. Turn trigger across opening slanted slightly in, then you +get them by neck or shoulders. The longer the slot in the trigger, +the harder they will trip. Set as straight up as possible. + +Make 1 and 2 of hard wood. Saw a block 3 1/2 inches long and split +into 3/4 inch squares. Make cuts square with a saw and split out the +part you don't want. Bevel ends with a hatchet. Make trigger of green +hard wood stick with bark on. + + * * * + +I cut a tree from 8 to 10 inches in diameter and cut off 7 feet long. +Split the piece open and bury one piece on a level with the +earth--split side up--and place the other half on top. I hew off any +bumps and make a perfect fit. Then I cut out bushes the size of my +arm, and drive them down on each side of my fall and leave them an +inch or two higher than I expect my top log to be when set. Be sure +to begin far enough at the back to force the animals to go in at the +front. I use the figure four triggers and tie the bait to the long +trigger. + +Another trigger is made as follows: Cut two forks and lay pole across +just in front of the log on top of the forks. Take another piece of +timber about four feet long, tie a string to each end and let one end +have a trigger and the other be tied on your top log. I drive a nail +in the top log and tie the string to it, and I call this my Fly +trigger. It acts as a lever, for when the fly comes up over the piece +on the forks and the trigger goes over half way back by the side of +the log, and the trigger about a foot long--straight and thin, and +sticks under the log--have a short trigger tied to the fly pole and a +forked sapling the size of your finger and long enough to stick in +the ground to hold the trigger. Put the bait on long trigger and +catch the short trigger through the fork and let it catch the long +trigger. This trigger leaves the fall open in front and is the one I +prefer. + +Take two small logs about 10 or 12 feet long, large enough to break a +coon's back, and make a pen about midway, or one-third from front +end, to put the bait in, and the trigger. Two foot boards, or +saplings will do, and make the pen so that the animal will have to +step across the bottom log and take the bait, and be sure to set so +that the top log will fall across the mink, coon, skunk, or opossum, +as they are the animals I kill with the fall. Use fly pole triggers +as above, for this deadfall. + +I make these falls near the runways of the animals I wish to catch. +When I am sure to stay at a place, I build my falls in the summer and +by the trapping time they look old and natural. + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +TRIP TRIGGERS. + +The deadfall shown here can be used at dens or in paths where animals +travel frequently. When set across the entrance of dens it will catch +an animal going in without bait. That is, it will catch an animal +going in, as the triggers are so constructed that they can only be +pushed towards the bait as shown in illustration. If the trap is to +be used at dens without bait the regular figure 4 triggers had best +be used, but set extending along the log instead of back into the +pen. An animal in entering will strike the trigger and down comes the +fall. + +The trap shown here and the triggers are made as follows: Cut two +logs and lay one on the ground. This log should be at least four feet +long. Place it firmly on the ground with flat side up. This log need +not be as flat as shown in illustration, but should be flattened +slightly. Drive two stakes three feet long within a foot or so of one +end (8) and (9). + +Now come to the other end and drive two more (10) and (11). Stake ten +which is directly opposite from (11) you want to be careful not to +split, as one of the triggers rests on it. The fall is now placed in +position, that is the upper log. The end of this is split and a stake +driven in the ground so that the fall will not turn between the +stakes but is held firmly. See that the fall will work easily up and +down; that the stakes are not so close together that the fall binds, +yet it wants to fit snugly. + + [Illustration: ANIMAL ENTERING TRIP DEADFALL.] + +Cut trip stick (4) and trigger (3), lifting the fall up with one knee +and place end of (3) onto (4) slightly, so that a small pressure on +(4) will spring the trap. After you have the trap set spring it to +see that it works all right. If the trap works all right and you are +setting across the entrance of a den the pen of course is not wanted. +If you are setting in paths or near dens, drive stakes in a +semi-circle as shown in illustration, but the stakes should stick +above the ground some eighteen inches or about as high as the "fall" +pole when set. It is a good plan to throw leaves or grass on the +stakes. + +A small notch (5) should be cut in upright post (8) for trip stick to +fit in to hold it up to that end. Be careful, however, that this +notch is not cut too deep. The bait (6) is placed back in the pen and +fastened with wire or a stake driven thru it into the ground. The +open space over bait is now covered over and the entire trap can be +made to not look so suspicious by cutting brush and throwing over it +excepting in front of the bait. An animal in going in for bait steps +on or pushes the long stick (marked 4 at one end and 5 at the other) +off of (3) and is usually caught. + + * * * + +This is another good trip trigger deadfall. A short log should be +laid on the ground and the two stakes driven opposite each other as +in the trap just described. These stakes are not shown, as a better +view of the triggers and workings of the trap can be had by omitting +these. + +In the illustration the "fall" pole is weighted, but it is best to +have the pole heavy enough and not weighted. The stakes on which the +upper or cross piece is nailed should be from twelve to eighteen +inches apart. The cross piece need not be heavy, yet should be strong +so that the weight of the fall will not bend it. + + [Illustration: TRIP TRIGGER FALL.] + +The pens or enclosures used cannot be covered, as this would +interfere with the workings of the triggers. If the pen is sixteen +inches or higher very few animals will climb over to get bait, but +will go in where the trapper wants and if properly made and set are +apt to catch the game. + + * * * + +Along in the late seventies or beginning of the eighties, when a good +sized muskrat would bring about as much as a common prime mink, and a +steel trap was quite a prize to be in possession of, I had perhaps +two dozen traps, some old fashioned, that would be quite a curiosity +at present, besides a few Newhouse No. 0 and 1. + +That was in Ontario, Canada. Skunk, mink, coon, muskrat and fox were +the furs in that part, Waterloo, Brant and Oxford Counties. Later I +used this deadfall with success in Iowa and other sections, so that +there is no doubt but that it will be found a good fur catcher in +most localities. + +I used to catch a great deal with deadfalls,--picture of which I here +enclose. I have seen nearly all the different makes of deadfalls and +have tried some of them, but the one I here send you the picture of, +which can be easily understood, is the one I have had the most +success with. I believe they are the best, and an animal can't get at +the bait without striking it off, besides some animals will examine a +bait without touching it. This deadfall, if they are curious enough +just to enter inside and put their foot on the trigger stick, they +are yours if the trap is set properly. + + [Illustration: CANADIAN TRIP FALL.] + +This style of deadfall can be successfully, used over skunk holes, +game runways and there you do away with the bait yard. This style of +trap is much easier made, as it requires very little skill. Just a +few straight sticks about the size round of a cane, a little twine. +You can catch most any animal from a weasel to a raccoon. The +illustration shows the "fall" or upper pole weighted. In our +experience we have found it more satisfactory to have the "fall" +heavy enough to kill the animal without the weight. It is often hard +for the trapper to find a pole of the right size and weight for the +"fall" and the next best way is to place additional weight as shown. + + * * * + +First make a pen in the form of a wigwam, driving stakes well into +the ground to keep the animal away from the rear of the trap. It +should be open on one side. Place a short log in front of the opening +and at both ends of this drive stakes to hold it in place and for the +long log to work up and down in. The top log should be six or eight +feet long, according to size of animal you aim to use trap for, and +about the same size as the bottom log. Cut a forked stick about 12 +inches long for the bait stick, notching one end and tapering the +other as shown in Fig. No. 2. A stick 24 inches long should then be +cut and flattened at both ends. + + [Illustration: THE TURN TRIGGER.] + +To set the trap, raise one end of the upper log and stick one end of +the flattened stick under it, resting it upon the top of the stake on +the outside of the log. Place the bait stick, point downward, inside +the pen upon a chip of wood or rock to keep it from sinking into the +ground and set flat stick in the notch. When the animal pulls at the +bait it turns the bait stake and throws the cross piece out of the +notch of the bait stick and let the top log fall. + + + +CHAPTER X. + +HOW TO SET. + +In explaining size pen some make them 2 feet long, writes a New York +trapper, while one 12 inches long (as used on this trail), is +sufficient; not only that, but it is superior for the following +reasons: A 2 foot pen would let the animal pass inside and beyond the +drop when sprung, unless the animal stepped on the treddle. + +The Indians' trap is made by cutting a sapling 3 or 4 inches in +diameter off the butt end cut a piece 2 foot and place on the ground +for a bed piece; drive four stakes, two on either side of bed piece, +leaving a space between of 12 inches, using the balance of pole for +the drop to play between the stakes. For balance of pen a few stakes, +bark or slabs cut from a tree. + +For a spindle, cut from a hemlock, spruce or other dry limb a piece +eight or ten inches long, sharpen one end to a point, the other end +flatten a trifle for an inch or two on the underside, so that when +placed on the bed piece it will lay steady. Now with a sharp knife, +commence 1/2 inch back, and round off top side of spindle on which to +place a standard four inches in length, cut from same material as +spindle. + +In setting, place the bait on the spindle so as to leave a space of +only six inches from bait to the standard; now take spindle in left +hand, standard in right hand, kneel down, raise the drop placing one +knee under it to hold it up the right height. Lay spindle onto center +of bed piece and place the standard on top of spindle, letting drop +rest on top of standard so as to keep the pieces in position. Now by +moving the standard out or in on the spindle, the spring of the trap +can be so gauged that it will set safely for weeks or months, sprung +easily, and hold anything from a weasel to a raccoon. + +It is sure, as it kills immediately, giving them no chance to escape +by twisting or gnawing off their legs. It is not so quickly made and +set as a steel trap, and never gives "Sneakums" inducements to +approach it for future use. After the trap is set, place bark or +something suitable between the stakes above the drop and cover top of +pen so as to compel the animal to enter in front, and at the same +time ward off snow and sleet from interfering with its workings. +Weight the drop pole on either side of pen by placing on chunks of +wood or stone. + + * * * + +There are several ways to set deadfalls, as different triggers are +used. The manner in constructing these traps is varied somewhat in +the different sections. The illustration shown here is of a trap that +is used to a considerable extent in all parts of America. The trapper +for marten in the far North, the opossum trapper of West Virginia, +Kentucky and Missouri, the skunk trapper of the New England States +and the mink trapper of the west have all used this trap with +success. It is for the hundreds of young and inexperienced trappers +that the deadfall is shown here. + + [Illustration: TWO PIECE TRIGGER TRAP.] + +The trigger as shown, that is the one extending back into the pen, is +all one piece. This trigger is usually cut from a bush and often +requires some time to find one suited. If you intend to build a few +traps of this kind it is well to be on the lookout in advance for +suitable triggers. This trap is set with only two triggers, the one +with the straight part extending back into the pen and the prong on +which the "fall" is resting and the other trigger is driven into the +ground so that it is only a little higher than the under log of the +trap. + +This trap can be set with the triggers known as figure 4 if +preferred. Coon, mink, opossum, skunk and marten are usually not hard +to catch in deadfalls, although now and then an animal for some +reason is extremely hard to catch. + +In building deadfalls it is best to split the end of the pole +fartherest from the pen or bait and drive the stake there. This will +hold the upper or "fall" pole solid, so that there will be no danger +of its turning of its own weight and falling. + + * * * + +I enclose plan and description of a deadfall I have used with success +on skunk and other fur animals, writes a trapper from New York State. +Never having seen anything like it described I thought it might be a +help to those using these traps. During November and December, 1897, +I caught 11 skunk in one deadfall like this one. + + [Illustration: STRING AND TRIGGER TRAP.] + +Stakes are driven in the ground to form the pen same as on figure 4 +or other deadfall, but no brush or sticks should be laid on top of +pen as it would prevent the vertical stick from lifting up, A small +log or board with stones on may be laid on pole for more weight. The +pole may be from ten to fifteen feet long and about three inches in +diameter. AA 18 inches or more out of the ground and one-half inch in +diameter; B 20 inches, X one-half inch; C about 16 X 3/4 inches; D 20 +X 3/4 inches; E same as AA only not crotch; F 1/4 inch. Rope long +enough to go around pole and over B and tie around C. D should be +from 1 to 3 inches above ground according to what is being trapped. +Bait should be laid on ground or fastened to stake near middle of +pen. + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +WHEN TO BUILD. + +If you have determined upon your trapping ground it is best to build +your traps in advance of the trapping season, so that they will +become old and weather beaten. This, of course, is not necessary as +traps are often built, baited and on the return of the trapper the +following morning game securely caught. While the above is often +true, deadfalls can and should be built in advance of the trapping +season. There are at least two reasons for this: first, it allows the +traps to become weather beaten and game is not so suspicious; second, +all the trapper has to do when the trapping season arrives is to +visit and set his traps. + +Some object to deadfalls on the ground that they require lots of work +to build and that a trapper's time is valuable at this season of the +year. Such may be true of the amateur, but the professional trapper +usually has much idle time in August, September and early October, +when he is glad to look out for trapping grounds for the coming +winter. It is a day's work for one man to build from eight to twelve +deadfalls, depending of course upon how convenient he finds the pole +to make the fall. The other material is usually not hard to find or +make. That is stakes, chunks and rocks. If you only build six or +eight traps and construct them right they are worth twice as many +poorly built. When properly built they will last for years, requiring +but little mending each fall at the opening of the trapping season. +Taken all in all we do not know that a certain number of deadfalls +take up any more time than an equal number of steel traps. In fact +more deadfalls can be set in a day, after they are built, than steel +traps. + +When it is stated that you will perhaps do as well at home as +elsewhere, this, of course, depends upon where you are located, how +many trappers there are in your section, etc. If there is but little +to be caught then you had best go elsewhere, but trappers have been +known in thickly settled sections to catch from $50 to $300 worth of +fur in a season, lasting from November 1 to March 15. Of course in +the far north, where trapping can be carried on from October 15 to +June 15, or eight months, the catch is much larger, and as the +animals caught are more valuable, the catch of a single trapper is +sometimes as high as $600 to $1,000. + +The trapper who stays near home has the advantage of knowing the +territory. If he was to visit a strange section, altho a good +trapping locality, he would not do so well as if he were acquainted +with the locality and knew the locations of the best dens. Then again +his expenses are heavier if he goes into a strange section, yet If +there is but little game near your home, and you are going to make a +business of trapping, go and look up a good trapping section. Under +these conditions it is best for two or three to go together. There is +no necessity of carrying but little baggage other than your gun, for +at the season of the year that prospecting is done there is but +little difficulty in killing enough game to live on. + +After you have once found a good trapping section, and built your +cabin, deadfalls and snares, you can go there fall after fall with +your line of steel traps, resetting your deadfalls with but little +repairs for years. You will also become better acquainted with the +territory each season and will make larger catches. Do not think that +you have caught all the game the first season, for generally upon +your return the next fall you will find signs of game as numerous as +ever. + +In locating new trapping grounds, if two or three are together and it +is a busy time in September, let one of the party go in advance +prospecting. This will save much valuable time when you make the +start for the fall and winter trapping campaign. It will pay you to +know where you are going before you make the final start. + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +WHERE TO BUILD. + +In determining where to set deadfalls or locate snares if you will +keep in mind the dens where each winter you have caught fur-bearing +animals, or their tracks have often been seen in the snow or mud, and +build your traps and construct snares at or near such places you are +pretty sure to not go astray. + +The location, of course, depends largely upon what kind of game you +are trying to catch. If mink or coon, there is no better place than +along streams where there are dens. If there should be a small branch +leading off from the main stream, at the mouth of this is often an +excellent place to locate a trap. It should not be too near the water +as a rise would damage or perhaps float off at least part of your +trap. Sometimes farther up this small stream there are bluffs and +rocks; at such places, if there are dens, is just the place to build +deadfalls. If there are several dens, and the bluff extends along +several hundred feet, it perhaps will pay to build two or three traps +here. + +In cleared fields, woods or thickets skunk are found anywhere that +there are dens you can construct a trap. While, as a rule, the thinly +settled districts are the best trapping sections, yet skunk, muskrat +and red fox are found in greatest numbers in settled sections, while +opossum, raccoon and mink are found in fairly well settled districts. +It is therefore not necessary that you should go to the wilderness to +make fairly good catches. While the trapper in the wilderness has the +advantage of no one disturbing his deadfalls, yet he has +disadvantages. The trapper who means business need not go hundreds of +miles away, but if he will build a line of traps along some stream +where there are mink, or in the thickets and along rocky buffs for +skunk, raccoon, opossum, etc., he will be surprised at results. + +In some sections land owners may not allow trapping, but usually they +will, especially if you take the pains to ask before you commence +building or setting your traps. + +The fact that you have your traps scattered over a large territory +gives you better chances of making good catches, for most animals +travel quite a distance from night to night. You may have traps at +some stream that is eight or ten miles from your home and a mink may +come along that does most of its seeking for food miles farther up or +down this stream, nearer, perhaps, where it was raised, and you get +him. Thus you see by going only ten miles away you may catch animals +that really live twenty. Just how far a mink may travel up or down a +creek or river I do not know, but it is certain that they go many +miles and traps may make a catch of a mink that lives many, many +miles away. Of course along small streams they may not go so far. +Often, however, they continue their travels from one stream to +another. + +If you are an expert trapper you can very easily detect, if you are +in a good locality, especially if in the fall--September and October. +These are the two months when the most prospecting is done. Going +along streams at this season tracks are plainly seen and in the +forests at dens signs, such as hair, bones and dung. Often you will +come upon signs where some bird has been devoured and you know that +some animal has been in the locality. Old trappers readily detect all +these signs and new ones can learn by experience. + +It is not absolutely necessary to build traps at or near dens. Some +years ago, I remember when doing considerable trapping in Southern +Ohio, I came upon a deadfall built near a small stream that ran thru +a woods. I looked around for dens, but saw none. Why this trap had +been built there was a puzzle to me. One day I happened upon the +owner of the trap and asked him what he expected to catch in that +trap. + +In reply he pointed to a bush some rods distant in which hung the +carcasses of two opossum and one coon--caught in the trap. While +there were no dens near, it was a favorite place for animals to cross +or else they came there for water. This same trap was the means of +this old trapper taking two or three animals each winter, while other +traps at dens near caught less. There is much in knowing where to set +traps, but keep your eyes open for signs and you will learn where to +build traps and set snares sooner or later. + + * * * + +Yes, boys, the deadfall is a splendid trap if made right, says an +Arkansas trapper. I will tell you how to make one that will catch +every mink and coon that runs the creek. Take a pole four feet long +and four inches through, next get a log six inches through and eight +feet long. Use eight stakes and two switches. Use the figure four +trigger, but the notches are cut different. Both of the notches are +cut on the top side of the long trigger and a notch cut in the +upright trigger and down the long trigger. The paddle part is sixteen +inches long. When the trap is set the paddle wants to be level and +one-half inch higher than small logs, then your two switches comes in +this to keep the paddle from hitting the bark on side logs. + + [Illustration: TRAIL OR DEN TRAP.] + +Next is where to set. If along a creek, find a place where the water +is within three feet of the bank, set your trap up and down the creek +at edge of water, dam up from back end of paddle to bank with brush +or briars, then from front end into water three or four feet. You +will find the upright trigger has to be a good deal longer than the +notch trigger. You can use round triggers if you want to by nailing a +shingle five inches wide on the long trigger stick. Be sure and have +your paddle muddy if setting along creeks. You want to put a little +stone back beyond paddle, so when the trap falls it will not burst +paddle. Now you have a trap easy made and sure to catch any animal +that steps on paddle, which is five inches wide and sixteen long. You +don't need any bait, but you can use bait by throwing it under +paddle. This trap is hard to beat for small game. + + * * * + +I make a deadfall that sets without bait, writes an Illinois trapper. +It is made like any other only different triggers. Set it across +path, over or in front of den or remove a rail and set it in the +corner of a fence where game goes thru. Use thread in dry weather, +fine wire for wet. Two logs for bottom is better than one, make +triggers high enough to suit the animal you wish to catch; if he hits +the string or wire he is yours. + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +THE PROPER BAIT. + +Bait is sometimes difficult to get, but usually the trapper will get +enough with his gun and steel traps to keep his line of deadfalls +well baited, without difficulty. In trapping, all animals caught +after the pelt is taken off should be hung up so that other animals +cannot reach them, but will visit your traps. + +There are two objects in hanging up bait: First, other animals coming +along are apt to eat them and not visit your deadfall; second, should +you run out of bait you can cut a piece from the animal hanging up, +bait your trap and go to the next. While bait of this kind is not +recommended, sometimes it comes to this or nothing. Fresh bait is +what is wanted at all times, yet the trapper cannot always get what +he knows is best and consequently must do the next best. Perhaps by +his next visit he has bait in abundance. + +The writer has known trappers to use a piece of skunk, opossum, +muskrat, coon, etc., that had been caught some weeks before and hung +up in a sapling where it froze and on the next visit the trap baited +with skunk contained a skunk. This shows that when an animal is very +hungry it is not very particular what it eats. + +In the early fall while food of all kinds is easy to find, any animal +is harder to entice to bait and at this season bait should be fresh +if the trapper expects to make profitable catches. The trapper should +always carry a gun, pistol or good revolver with which to help kill +game to supply bait for his traps. Steel traps set along the line +will also help to keep the supply of bait up at all times. If you are +successful in securing a great deal of bait, more than will be used +on that round, you will find it an excellent idea to leave some at +certain places where it can be secured on the next round should it be +needed. + +Bait may consist of any tough bit of meat, but rabbit is an excellent +bait. Quail or almost any bird is good. Chicken also makes good bait. +Squirrel is all right. For mink, fish is excellent. Mice, frogs and +muskrat can all be used. Remember that the fresher and bloodier the +bait the better--animals will scent it much quicker. They are also +fonder of fresh bait than that which has been killed for days or +weeks as the case may be. + +In baiting it is important to see that the bait is on secure. It is a +good idea to tie it on with strong thread or small cord. The amount +of bait to put on a single trap is not so important. Most trappers +use a rabbit in baiting ten traps or less; the head makes bait for +one trap, each foreleg another, the back about three and each hind +leg one, altho each hind leg can be cut to make bait for two traps. + +The spindle or trigger is run thru the bait and should be fastened on +trigger near the end as shown in illustration elsewhere. The securing +of bait on the trigger is an important thing. If it is not on +securely and the trap is hard to get off, the animal may devour bait +and the trap not fall. If the trigger is only sticking loosely in the +bait, it is easy for an animal to steal the bait. Usually the +observing trapper knows these things and are on their guard, but for +those who are using deadfalls this season for the first time, more +explicit explanation is necessary. + +The bait should extend back into the pen about a foot and the pen +should be so constructed that the bait touches nowhere only on the +trigger. The animal in eating the bait usually stands with its fore +feet upon the under pole, or just over it. In this condition it can +readily be seen, that if its gnawing at the bait twists the trigger +off the upright prop what the consequences will be--the animal will +be caught across the back. An animal standing in the position just +described will naturally pull down somewhat on the bait and in its +eagerness to get the bait pulls and twists the spindle, or trigger, +off the upright prop. + +It is a good idea to try the trigger. That is, place the triggers +under the fall just the same as you would if they were baited and you +were going to set the trap. By doing this you will find out about how +you want to set the triggers so that they will work properly. There +is much in being acquainted with the working of traps. Study them +carefully and you will soon learn to be a successful trapper. + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +TRAPS KNOCKED OFF. + +If you find that your traps are "down" each time you visit them and +the bait gone, the pen is perhaps too large and the animal, if a +small one like a mink, is going inside to devour bait. Animals +usually stand with fore feet upon lower log and reach into pen after +bait, but at times they have been known to go inside. In this case +the animal is not in danger as when the "fall" comes down the animal +is not under it. If such is the case, that is, the animal entirely +inside the pen, the trigger will be caught under the fall and the +trapper knows that whatever is molesting his trap is doing so from +the inside. All that the trapper has to do is lessen the size of the +pen. This can be done by placing small stones or chunks on the inside +of the pen or by driving stakes on the inside. By doing this the +outside appearance is not changed. + +If, on the other hand, the trigger, that is the long one or spindle, +not the short prop, is pulled out each time and often carried several +feet, the trap is set too hard to "fall" and should be set easier. If +the prop, or upright piece, is cut square across the top, take your +knife and round off the edges so that the trigger will slip off +easier. Again the pen may be torn down and the animal takes bait from +the rear. Here is where it pays to build traps substantial. In such +cases rebuild the pen, making it stronger. Should it be torn down on +subsequent visits, the game is perhaps a fox. Of course if the pen +has been torn down by some trapper or passing hunter, you can readily +detect same by the manner in which it has been done. If the trapper +is satisfied that it is an animal that is doing the mischief, he +wants to plan carefully, and if he is an expert trapper, a steel trap +or two will come into good play and the animal will be caught in the +steel trap. The pen will not be torn down again. + +When traps are down note carefully the condition that they are in; +see that the "fall" fits on the lower pole closely, and by the way, +when building this is an important thing to notice--that the fall +fits snugly on the lower or under pole. + +If a snare or spring pole is up but nothing caught, simply reset. +Should many snares be up "thrown" and no catches, the trouble should +be located at once. The noose is probably too large or small or made +of limber or too stiff string or wire, or maybe it is too securely +fastened. When resetting, note all these carefully and experience +will sooner or later enable you to set just right to make a catch. If +a certain snare is bothered continually, it will do no harm to set a +steel trap where you think chances best of taking the animal. It +matters but little to the trapper how the animal is caught, as it is +his pelt that is wanted. + +In using the trip triggers with or without bait, the trapper should +fasten the bait by either driving a peg through it and into the +ground or tieing. + +In most instances the animal will throw the trap before getting to +the bait, but it is well to take this precaution in case, for any +reason, the animal should not step on the trip trigger at first. + +Sometimes a small animal may jump over the trip trigger in order to +get the bait and in its endeavor to get bait will strike the trigger. +The animal does not know that the trigger is dangerous, but now and +then either steps or jumps over. Generally they step on the trigger, +for if the trapper is "onto his job" the bait and trigger are so +placed that the animal thinks the trip trigger is the place to put +his foot. + +In using without bait the trigger is so arranged that the animal rubs +or steps on the trigger when entering or leaving the pen or if at a +trail or runway when passing along. + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +SPRING POLE SNARE. + +While the deadfall is good for most animals, there is no one trap +that fills all requirements and in all places. Some animals may be +shy of deadfalls that can be taken in spring poles, snares and steel +traps. This trap is easily and cheaply constructed. It should be made +near dens or where animals travel frequently. + +If a small bush is not growing handy, cut one. Drive a stake deeply +in the ground, pull it out, stick the larger end of the bush cut into +it. The explanation of this trap is as follows: 1, bait stick; 2, +trigger; 3, noose made of wire or stout cord; 4, stay wire made of +wire or cord; 5, bait; 6, spring pole. + +By noting carefully the illustration this trap can be built easily. +The size of the bush or spring pole, of course, depends upon what +sized animals you are trapping. This trap will take small game such +as mink, opossum, skunk, etc., or can be made large and strong enough +to catch mountain lion or black bear. + + * * * + + [Illustration: SPRING POLE AND SNARE.] + +The snare is made by building a round fence in a place where there is +plenty of small trees. Select two about four inches apart for noose +and snare entrance, and another long springy one for spring pole 6 or +7 feet long, bend this down and trim it. Have a noose made of limber +wire or strong string and a cross piece. Having cut notches in the +sides of the trees for the same to fit, have it to spring easy. For +snaring rabbits have the fence quite high. + + [Illustration: SMALL GAME SNARE.] + +Observe the above description and you can readily make. No. 1 is the +noose, No. 2 is spring pole, No. 3 fence, No. 4 bait. This snare +already explained can be made any time in the year while the dead +fall can only be constructed when the ground isn't frozen. + + * * * + +The snares can be either made of twine or wire. Many fox and lynx +snare trappers in the North use small brass wire. + + [Illustration: WIRE AND TWINE SNARE.] + +Snares work well in cold weather and if properly constructed are +pretty sure catchers. + +A--Spring pole. + +B--Staple. + +C--Two small nails driven in tree. (Three inch nail head, end down, +with snare looped at each end with a foot of slack between. As soon +as the D--three inch nail is pulled down, it will slip past the nail +at top end, when spring pole will instantly take up the slack, also +the fox, to staple and does its work.) + +E--Slack line or wire. + +F--Loop should be 7 inches in diameter and bottom of loop ten inches +from the ground. + +Remarks--The nails should be driven above staple so it will pull +straight down to release the snare fastening. + + [Illustration: SNARE LOOP.] + +A great many foxes have been caught in this country by the plan of +the drawing outlined, writes J. C. Hunter, of Canada. A--the snare, +should be made of rabbit wire, four or five strand twisted together. +Should be long enough to make a loop about seven inches in diameter +when set. Bottom side of snare should be about six inches from the +ground. E--is a little stick, sharp at one end and split at the +other, to stick in the ground and slip bottom of snare in split end, +to hold snare steady. + +B--is catch to hold down spring pole. C--is stake. D--is spring pole. +Some bend down a sapling for a spring pole, but we think the best way +is to cut and trim up a small pole about ten feet long; fasten the +big end under a root and bend it down over a crotch, stake or small +tree. Snare should be set on a summer sheep path, where it goes +through the bushes. + + [Illustration: PATH SET SNARE.] + +Stake might be driven down a foot or more back from the path, where a +branch of an evergreen bush would hang over it so as to hide it and a +string long enough from stake or trigger to snare to rest over path. + + * * * + +The setting of a snare is done thus: A good sound tamarac or other +pole fifteen or twenty feet long is used for the tossing. The butt +end of this must be five or six inches in diameter and the small end +about three inches. A tree with a crotch in it is then selected to +balance the pole upon. Failing to find such a tree in the proper +place, an artificial fork is made by crossing two stout young birch +or tamarac, firmly planted in the ground, and the two upper points +tied together six or ten inches from the top. The balancing or +tossing pole is lodged in this fork so that the part towards the butt +would out-weigh a bear of two or three hundred pounds suspended from +the small end. + +Next a stout little birch or spruce is selected and a section of +three or four cut off. From this all the branches are removed, except +one, the small end is pointed and driven deep into the ground a few +inches at one side of the bear road. The snare is made of three +twisted strands of eighteen thread cod line and is firmly tied to the +tossing pole. A few dried branches are stuck in the ground each side +of the path, the pole is depressed so the very end is caught under +the twig on the stick driven in the ground for that purpose and the +noose is stiffened by rubbing balsam branches which leave enough gum +to make it hold its shape. + +The noose is kept in the proper position (the bottom being about +sixteen inches above the road and the diameter being about eleven +inches) by blades of dry grass looped to it and the ends let into a +gash on sticks at each side, put there for that purpose. No green +branches are used in the hedge about the road because this would make +the bear suspicious. The snare is now complete and the hunter stands +back and examines it critically. His last act is to rub some beaver +castor on the trunk of some tree standing near the road, ten or +twelve feet from the snare. This is done on another tree at the same +distance on the opposite side of the snare. + +Bears are attracted by the smell of the castor and rub themselves +against the tree in the same way as a dog rubs on carrion. When +finished rubbing on one tree he scents the other and in going to get +at the fresh one tries to pass thru the snare. He feels the noose +tighten about his neck and struggles; this pulls the end of the +tossing pole from under the branch trigger, up goes the pole and old +Bruin with it. + + * * * + +My way, according to a Massachusetts trapper, to trap skunk without +scenting, and it is successful, is to snare them. Use a spring pole +and if one does not grow handy, cut one and set it up as firmly as +possible about four or five feet from the burrow and to one side. +Probably the ground is frozen and you will have to brace it up with +logs or stones or perhaps lash it to a stump or root. When the top of +the pole is bent down it should be caught under the end of a log or +rock on the opposite side of the hole so that it can easily be +dislodged by an animal, either going in or out of the burrow. + +The snare or noose is attached to the spring pole directly over the +center of the burrows and the bottom of the noose should be an inch +and a half or two inches from the ground to allow the animal's feet +to pass under it and his little pointed nose to go thru the center. +Set the noose as closely over the entrance of the hole as possible +and one or two carefully arranged twigs will keep it in place. + +Strong twine is better for the noose than large cord as the skunk is +less liable to notice it. When a skunk passes in or out of the hole +the noose becomes tightened about his neck and a slight pull releases +the spring pole which soon strangles him. While this may seem an +elaborate description of so simple a trap, still, like any other +trap, if set in a careless, half-hearted manner, it will meet with +indifferent success and, tho simple the snare, with a little thought +and ingenuity can be applied in almost any situation for the capture +of small game. + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +TRAIL SET SNARE. + +Many of the boys, writes an Indiana trapper, have come forth with +their particular snares and methods of making same, all of which I +believe are good, but most of them require to be baited, which is one +bad feature as applied to certain districts, for such has been my +experience that in many localities it is utterly impossible to get +animals to take bait. This snare may be used as a blind or set with +bait as your trapping grounds, or rather the animals, may require. + +It is very inexpensive and so simple any boy can make it. First get a +strip of iron one-eighth inch thick, three-eighths or one-half wide. +Cut it in nine inch lengths and bend in the shape of Fig. 2, having +drilled a one-fourth inch hole in either end. Next secure some light +sheet iron, or heavy tin, cut in pieces 2 3/4 inches by 5 3/4 inches +for the pan, and drill a one-fourth inch hole in center of same as +shown in Fig. 3. It is now a very easy matter to rivet the pan or +Fig. 3 to Fig. 2. This done, take some 20 penny spikes and cut off +the heads as per Fig. 1. + + [Illustration: TRIP PAN OR PLATE.] + +Now brass, or preferably copper wire, can be had on spools at most +any hardware store, which is used for the loops, as it is so pliable +yet sufficiently strong to hold any of the small fur bearers, as it +is made in many sizes. Use the brass or copper wire only for the +loops, as ordinary stove pipe wire is just the article for the +finishing of the snare. + +For a blind set to be placed in the run of the animals, make a double +loop, that is, two loops for each snare. Now, take a bunch of these +with you and find the runs or follow the ravines and creeks where +they feed. If you can find a tree in a favorable spot on their runs, +take one of your headless spikes and drive in the base of the tree a +few inches from the ground. + +Now take No. 2 with the pan riveted thereon and hook bent and over +spike, driving spike into tree until pan is level and until there is +just room enough to hook loop of wire over head of spike. (See +illustration.) Dig out under pan so same can fall when stepped upon. +Then secure a rock or chunk of sufficient weight and fasten to other +end of wire. Throw this over limb of tree and hook loop over head of +a spike, having first put No. 2 in place. + +Put one loop on one side of the pan and the other loop on the other +side, so that an animal coming either way will step upon the pan to +his sorrow. This done, drive a staple in tree over wire running from +spike to limb, which will prevent the animal being pulled over the +limb and escaping. + + [Illustration: DOUBLE TRAIL SET.] + +Having covered everything up with the natural surroundings and left +no signs, you may claim the first furrier that happens that way and +he will be waiting for you. This snare may also be used with the +ordinary spring pole by driving spike in a stake, then the stake in +the ground, in which case it is best to make the usual V-shaped pen +with stakes or stones, covering same over at top and setting so the +pan will be right in the mouth of the pen and the single loop just +between pan and bait. In this way they tread upon the pan just before +they reach the bait. + +You find this snare easily thrown. They will not cost you over three +cents a piece, and any man can easily carry one hundred of them and +not be half loaded. + + * * * + +In many ways the snare is splendid for lynx. Here in Western Ontario, +says a well known trapper, where the lynx seldom take bait, they may +be taken quite easily in snares set on snowshoe trails. Fig. 1 shows +a wire snare set on such a trail. I go about it in the following +manner: Having found a suitable place along the edge of some swamp or +alder thicket, I cut a spruce or balsam tree, about ten or twelve +feet long, and throw it across the trail. I press the tree down until +the stem of the tree is about twenty inches above the trail, and make +an opening in the trail by cutting a few of the limbs away on the +under side of the trail. Then I set a couple of dead stakes on each +side so as to leave the opening about ten inches wide and hang my +snare between these stakes and directly under the stem of the tree. + + [Illustration: TRAIL SET SNARES.] + +The snare should be about nine inches in diameter and should be +fastened securely to the tree. It should also be fastened lightly to +the stakes on either side, so it will not spring out of shape. The +best way is to make a little split in the side of each stake, and +fasten the snare with a very small twig stuck in the split stake. + +I make the snares of rabbit wire, about four or five plies thick, +twisted. Some trappers prefer to use a cord. The dark colored codfish +line is best, and it is best to use a spring pole snare, and Fig. 3 +shows the method of tieing and fastening to the stakes. It will be +seen that when the lynx passes his head through the snare he only +needs to give a slight pull to open the slip knot and release the +spring pole. + +To prevent the rabbits from biting a cord snare, rub it well with the +dropping of the lynx or fox and also, never use any green wood other +than spruce or balsam, as any fresh green wood is sure to attract the +rabbits. You may also put a small piece of beaver castor along the +trail on each side of the snare, and you will be more sure of the +lynx, as beaver castor is very attractive to these big cats. + + * * * + +We will now proceed to make another spring pole snare, altho the one +described before is more practical, says a Colorado trapper. It is +made like the preceding one except the trigger, etc. This one is to +be used on a runway without any bait whatever. The illustration shows +the trigger as it appears in the runway. No. 1 is the trip stick; No. +2, the stay crotch; No. 3, the trigger; No. 4, the loop; No. 5, the +pathway, and No. G, the stay wire. + + [Illustration: PATH SNARE.] + +The animal in coming on down the path (5) passes its body or neck +thru the loop made of stout soft insulated wire (4); in passing it +steps on the trip stick (1) which settles with the animal's weight, +releasing the trigger (3) which in turn releases the stay wire (6) +and jerks the loop (4) around the animal; the spring pole onto which +the stay-wire it attached lifts your game up into the air, choking it +to death and placing it out of reach of other animals that would +otherwise destroy your fur. A small notch cut in the stay crotch +where the end of the trip stick rests will insure the trigger to be +released. This will hold the trip stick firm at the end, making it +move only at the end where the animal steps. + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +BAIT SET SNARE. + +This snare I consider good for such animals as will take bait. (See +page 141.) + +No. 1 and 2, headless wire nails driven horizontally into tree about +ten inches from ground. + +No. 3, a No. 10 or 12 wire nail with head used to catch under No. 1 +and 2. + +No. 4, bait stick or trigger. No. 3 passes through No. 4. + +No. 5, bait, frog tied to bottom of No. 4. + +No. 6's snare, fastened to No. 3 by two half hitches, then fastened +to No. 3 by two half hitches, then fastened to seven or spring pole. + +No. 7, spring pole. + +Nos. 8, 8, small stakes driven in ground to form a pen. + +Nos. 9, 9, two small twigs split at top to hold snare loop in place. + +Nos. 1 and 2 should be about 4 inches apart. + +No. 3 goes through a gimlet hole in No. 4. About three inches from +the top use any small round stick from 1/2 to 1 inch in thickness, +not necessary to flatten No. 4 as in illustration. Use it natural +bark on. From hole in No. 4 to bottom end should be about 7 inches. + + [Illustration: RAT RUNWAY SNARE. UNDERGROUND RAT RUNWAY. RUNWAY AND +CUBBY SET. LOG SET SNARE. COW PATH SNARE.] + +Snare loop about 6 inches in front of bait, held in place by 9, 9, +slightly leaning against 8,8. + +It can be plainly seen that if an animal takes No. 5 in its jaws and +tries to remove it, it moves out the bottom of No. 4, moving forward +No. 3 until, flip! up she goes. The top of No. 4 must be tight +against the tree when set. + + [Illustration: LIFTING POLE SNARE.] + +No. 3 should just catch under No. 1 and 2, then it takes but 1/2 inch +to pull on bait to spring it. Bait with frogs, fish, tainted meat for +skunk, and pieces of rabbit, muskrat or bird, for mink. + +The lynx, like the wolverine, is not afraid of a snowshoe track, and +will follow a line of rabbit snare for long distances, and when he +sees a bunny hanging up, he, without the least compunction, +appropriates it to himself, by right of discovery. + +When he does this once he will come again and the Indian hunter, +knowing this, at once sets a snare for "Mister Cat." Sometimes when +the thief has left a portion of the rabbit, a branch house is built +up against the trunk of some tree, the remains of the rabbit placed +at the back and the snare set at the doorway. + + [Illustration: BAIT SET SNARE.] + +A stout birch stick is cut about three or four feet long and lodged +on a forked stick at each side of the door and about two and a half +feet high. To the middle of this crossbar the end of the twine is +tied; No. 9 Holland is generally used, or No. 6 thread cod line. This +is gummed by rubbing balsam branches up and down the twine in the +same way as the bear snare. The noose is held in shape in one or two +places at each side by a light strand of wood or blade of grass and a +couple of small dry sticks are placed upright under the snare to +prevent the cat from passing beneath. + +The loop is almost as large as for a bear and as high from the +ground, if not higher. The lynx has long legs and carries his head +straight in front of him and takes a snare by pushing thru it, or by +a rush, never crouching and then springing. + +As the resort of rabbits is a young growth of country, there are also +lynx in the greatest numbers. Rabbits and partridges are their +principal food. When the Indian enters a new piece of country to set +rabbit snares to support his wife and family and sees signs of lynx, +he combines the two kinds of hunting and as he goes along, once in a +while, he bars his snowshoe track by placing a lynx snare in the way. +The lynx are fond of the smell of castor, as indeed are most animals, +so the hunter rubs a little on a tree at each side of his snare for +the cat to rub against when he comes that way. + +The snare is never tied to anything immovable, as they are very +powerful and would break the twine. As soon as the noose tightens the +cross piece comes readily away from the supports and the cat springs +to one side. The stick, however, either knocks him a blow or gets +tangled in his legs. This he tries several times, but with the same +result, that bothersome stick is always hanging to his neck. About +the last effort he makes to free himself is to ascend a tree. This, +however, is nearly always fatal, for after he gets up a certain +distance this trouble some stick is sure to get fast back of some +limb. The lynx by this time, having become a pretty cross cat, makes +matters worse and the hunter finds him hanging dead, at times twenty +or thirty feet from the earth. + + + +CHAPTER XVIII + +THE BOX TRAP. + +This trap is put to various uses. The beginner usually has one or two +with which he traps for rabbits. In fact they are great for that for +the animal is not injured, which is often the case when shot or +caught by dogs. Rabbits caught in box traps are therefore the best +for eating. + +The trapper who wants to secure fur-bearers alive to sell to parks, +menageries or to start a "fur ranch" usually uses the box trap. + +The size for rabbits is about 30 inches long by 5 wide and 6 high. +The boards can be of any kind but pine, poplar, etc., being light is +much used. The boards need only be a half inch thick. To make a trap +you will need four pieces 30 inches long; two of these for the sides +should be six inches wide; the other two for top and bottom should be +5 inches. These pieces should be nailed on the top and bottom of the +sides. This will make the inside of the trap six inches high by four +wide. It is best to have your trap narrow so that the animal you are +trapping cannot turn in the trap. + +In one end of the trap wires or small iron rods should be placed (see +illustration). These should be about an inch apart. In the other end +the door is constructed. This can be made out of wire also. The +bottom of door should strike about eight inches inside. It will be +seen that an animal pushing against the door, from the outside, +raises it, but once on the inside the more they push against it the +tighter it becomes. + + [Illustration: THE BOX TRAP.] + +The trap can be set at holes where game is known to be, or can be +placed where game frequents and baited. If bait is used place a +little prop under the door and place bait back in trap a foot or +more. Bait to use of course depending upon what you are trapping. + +The trap described is about right size for the common rabbit and +mink. For skunk and opossum a trap a little larger will be required. + +For mink and other animals that are gnawers the traps should be +visited daily for they may gnaw and escape. If impossible to visit +traps daily they should be lined with tin. + +In many places these traps, with a door at each end, are used for +catching muskrat. They are set in their dens under water and either +tied or weighted down. The rats are caught either going in or +leaving. + +In making these traps the beginner is apt to make them too wide--so +the animal can turn within. This is a mistake for it gives the game +more freedom and room to gnaw to liberty. + +The animal simply goes in and is there until the trapper comes along +and removes the game. Skunk can be drowned when caught in this trap +without scenting if the trapper knows how to go about it. + +The trap should be handled carefully. Take to water sufficiently deep +to cover the trap and slowly sink and then either weight the trap or +hold down until the animal is drowned. + +The box trap is a humane trap if visited daily. They are rather +unhandy to carry about and few trappers want many, yet under certain +conditions they are very useful. They can be made during idle time. +For mink and other shy animals they should be handled as little as +possible. They should be made of old boards or at least avoid all +appearances of newness. + + * * * + +Some sections saplings to make deadfalls cannot be had and for the +benefit of such, a wooden trap, three feet long and six inches wide +and deep, is a good manner to take muskrat, writes a Western trapper. +The boards can be cut out of any old lumber. In each end is a wire +door, hung on hinges at the top. These doors rise at the slightest +push on the outside, but will not open from the inside. The trap is +sunk in the water at the entrance to the den and is fastened there. A +muskrat in entering or leaving the den is sure to enter the trap. + +The animal, of course, could gnaw out, but will drown before it has +time to accomplish this. Several rats are often taken, where they are +numerous, in a night. Traps of this kind can be used to best +advantage in lakes and ponds or where the height of the stream does +not vary much. If they are set along creeks and rivers you want to +fasten them securely or take them up before heavy rains, as they are +almost sure to be washed away. + + * * * + +I see in a recent number where George Walker wanted some one to tell +through H-T-T how to make box trap to catch muskrat. Here is a good +way: + +First take four boards 36 inches long, nail together leaving both +ends open. Next a small gate, consisting of a square piece of wood +supplied with a few stiff wires is then pivoted inside of each +opening so as to work freely and fall easily when raised. The bait is +fastened inside the center of the box. The animal in quest of the +bait finds an easy entrance, as the wires lift at slight pressure, +but the exit after the gate has closed is so difficult that escape is +almost beyond question. To insure further strength it is advisable to +connect the lower ends of the wires by a cross piece of fine wire +twisted about each. If you have good luck you can catch two and three +in this trap each night. Set in two or three inches of water where +muskrat frequents, or set in skunk dens. + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +THE COOP TRAP. + +This trap is used with great success for catching wild turkey, +pheasants, quail and other feathered game. In some states the law +forbids the use of this and similar traps. + +The trap is built like an ordinary rail pen. In fact, some use small +rails when constructing this trap for wild turkey, while others build +of small straight poles. The pen is usually six feet or more square +and about three high. The "coop" is stronger if drawn in from bottom +to top (see illustration). The top must be covered and weighted. + +A ditch is now dug about a foot wide. This ditch should begin about +three feet from coop and lead within. Corn or other grain is +scattered on the outside and in the trench leading into the coop. On +the inside considerable should be scattered in the leaves and small +but short twigs. + +The turkeys once on the inside will eat the grain and scratch among +the leaves which generally partly fill the trench and as the birds +are usually looking up, when not eating, they do not think of the +trench thru which they entered. + +The same trap will catch quail, but of course is built much smaller. +About three feet square being large enough and a foot high is +sufficient. Some have built quail coops out of cornstalks and report +catches. + + [Illustration: THE COOP TRAP.] + +The quail coop should have the ditch leading to the inside the same +as described for turkey. Of course the ditch should be much +smaller--only large enough for one bird to enter at a time. On the +inside of coop it is a good idea to lay a board six inches or wider +over the ditch. The bait should be wheat or other small grain or +seeds that the birds like. Scatter thinly on the outside and in the +trench, but on the inside place more liberally. Chaff or leaves +should be placed on the inside so that the birds in scratching for +the grain will partly fill up the hole thru which they came. + +Quail, turkey and other feathered game once on the inside and after +eating the bait never think of going down into the ditch and out, but +walk round and round the coop looking thru the chinks and trying to +escape. + +The largest catches are made by baiting where the birds frequent for +some days or even weeks before trying to make a catch. It is well to +make the coops long in advance so that the birds will be accustomed +to them, especially wild turkey. + +These traps are some times used with the figure 4 trigger, but when +thus set seldom more than one or two birds are caught at a time. + + + +CHAPTER XX. + +THE PIT TRAP. + +This method of catching game and fur bearing animals is not much +used, as the labor in connection with making a pit trap is +considerable. The method, however, is an excellent one for taking +some of the larger animals, especially when they are wanted for +parks, menageries, etc., uninjured. + +The pit should be several feet deep and bait placed as shown. Another +way is to cover the top with rotten limbs, leaves, etc., and place +the bait on this. The animal in trying to secure the bait breaks +thru. + +The dirt from the pit should be removed in baskets. Catches are made +by digging a pit across animal runways or trails. When the ground is +not frozen or during rainy weather it is well to place a board +several inches wide at top. The animal in going over its usual trail +steps upon the frail covering and falls thru. + +While the pit trap is mostly used for capturing large game, it can be +used to advantage for taking many of the smaller fur bearers. + +Where muskrat are numerous, instead of digging a pit, secure a box +about three feet deep. The width and length make no difference. Place +a few flat rocks in the bottom and place in the water where rats +frequent. Make the box solid. The box must be water tight. The weight +should bring the top of box to within a few inches of water. A couple +of boards or chunks should be so placed that the rats will climb up +them and to the box along the edge of which the bait is placed. + + [Illustration: THE PIT TRAP.] + +The pit trap can be used where skunk and other animals frequent. Bait +the place for some days before the pit is dug. + +If the pit is to be used without bait, then find the runways of the +animal and dig the pit. While some animals may not be shy, if a +little fresh dirt is lying around, yet it is best to be very careful +and carry all earth taken out of pit a few rods to one side. Pits of +this kind should be several feet deep. + +The success the hunter or trapper has in using this method will +depend largely upon his knowledge of the game he is after. Unless the +animal or animals are wanted alive, the work to make a pit is too +great and the chances of a catch never certain. This way is not +practicable under ordinary circumstances, yet where the game is +wanted alive and sound, is worth trying. + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +NUMBER OF TRAPS. + +In some localities there are not many dens and trappers make use of +about all when trapping that section, but in other parts of the +country dens are so numerous that to place a trap at each is +impossible. In states where groundhogs (woodchucks), are numerous +there are often a hundred or more dens along a single bluff or rocky +bank. To have enough steel traps to set one at each is something few +trappers do, yet two or three deadfalls in connection with a line of +steel traps is all that is necessary and the trapper can move on to +the next bluff where dens are numerous and set another trap or two. +As a rule it is where there are many dens, close together, that +deadfalls make the best catches, yet when you find a good den +anywhere, set or construct a deadfall. + +All trappers have noticed when tracking animals in the snow that they +visit nearly every den along their route, not always going in but +just sticking their head in. When thus investigating, the animal +smells the bait and is hungry (as nine times out of ten the animal is +hunting something to eat), and if your trap is set properly you are +reasonably sure to make a catch. + +In the North, Canada, Alaska and some of the states on the Canadian +border where trapping is made a business, it is no uncommon thing for +one man to have as many as one hundred and fifty traps and some have +out twice that many, or three hundred. Marten trappers in the +trackless forests often blaze out a route fifty or more miles in +length, building shelters along the line where nights are spent. + +The trapper who only spends a few hours each day at trapping and +lives in thickly settled districts will find that it is hard for him +to locate suitable places perhaps for more than thirty to fifty +traps, yet if these will be looked at properly during the season the +catch will justify the time and labor in building. + +The number of deadfalls and snares that each trapper should construct +in his section must largely be determined by himself, depending upon +how large a territory he has to trap over without running into other +trappers' grounds. It will be little use to build traps where there +are other trappers as trouble will occur, traps may be torn to +pieces, etc. Yet there are many good places to build traps in your +immediate locality no doubt. If there are any creeks near and woods +along the banks you will find good places at both creek and in the +woods. If in sections where there is no forest, like some western +states, deadfalls trapping may be difficult from the fact that there +is nothing to build them with. + +In such cases the portable traps, (described elsewhere) in this book, +can probably be used to advantage, but best of all in such places is +steel traps. + +The number of deadfalls and snares that a trapper can attend to is +large, from the fact that the game is killed and as the weather is +usually cold, the traps need not be looked at only about twice each +week. + +In the North, many trappers have such long lines that they do not get +over them only once a week. The trouble where deadfalls are only +looked at once in seven days is that other animals are apt to find +the game and may injure the fur, or even destroy the pelt. + +Where snares with spring pole attachment are used, and the weather is +cold, the trapper need not make the rounds only once a week, as all +animals will be suspended in the air and out of the reach of flesh +eaters. + +South of 40 degrees where the weather is not severe, it is policy to +look at traps at least twice a week, and in the extreme South the +trapper should make his rounds every day. + +It will thus be seen that a trapper in the North can attend more +deadfalls and snares than one in the South or even in the Central +States. No trapper should have more traps or longer lines than he can +properly attend to. The fur bearing animals are none too numerous +without having them caught and their pelts and fur spoiled before the +arrival of the trapper. + + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +WHEN TO TRAP. + +The proper season to begin trapping is when cold weather comes. The +old saying that fur is good any month that has an "r" in does not +hold good except in the North. Even there September is too early to +begin, yet muskrat and skunk are worth something as well as other +furs. In the spring April is the last month with an "r." In most +sections muskrat, bear, beaver, badger and otter are good all thru +April, but other animals began shedding weeks before. + +The rule for trappers to follow is to put off trapping in the fall +until nights are frosty and the ground freezes. + +Generally speaking in Canada and the more Northern States trappers +can begin about November 1 and should cease March 1, with the +exception of water animals, bear and badger, which may be trapped a +month later. In the Central and Southern States trappers should not +begin so early and should leave off in the spring from one to four +weeks sooner--depending upon how far South they are located. + +At the interior Hudson Bay posts, where their word is law, October 25 +is appointed to begin and May 25th to quit hunting and trapping with +the exception of bear, which are considered prime up to June 10. +Remember that the above dates are for the interior or Northern H. B. +Posts, which are located hundreds of miles north of the boundary +between the United States and Canada. + +The skunk is the first animal to become prime, then the coon, marten, +fisher, mink and fox, but the latter does not become strictly prime +until after a few days of snow, says an old Maine trapper. Rats and +beaver are late in priming up as well as otter and mink, and tho the +mink is not strictly a land animal, it becomes prime about with the +later land animals. The bear, which is strictly a land animal, is not +in good fur until snow comes and not strictly prime until February or +March. + + * * * + +With the first frosts and cool days many trappers begin setting and +baiting their traps. That it is easier to catch certain kinds of +fur-bearing animals early in the season is known to most trappers and +for this reason trapping in most localities is done too early in the +season. + +Some years ago when trapping was done even earlier than now, we +examined mink skins that were classed as No. 4 and worth 10 or 15 +cents, that, had they been allowed to live a few weeks longer, their +hides would have been No. 1 and worth, according to locality, from +$1.50 to $3.50 each. This early trapping is a loss to the trapper if +they will only pause and think. There are only so many animals in a +locality to be caught each winter and why catch them before their fur +is prime? + +In the latitude of Southern Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, etc., skunk +caught in the month of October are graded back from one to three +grades (and even sometimes into trash), where if they were not caught +until November 15th how different would be the classification. The +same is true of opossum, mink, muskrat, coon, fox, etc. + + * * * + +Skunk are one of the animals that become prime first each fall. The +date that they become prime depends much on the weather. Fifteen +years ago, when trapping in Southern Ohio, the writer has sold skunk +at winter prices caught as early as October 16, while other seasons +those caught the 7th of November, or three weeks later, blued and +were graded back. Am glad to say that years ago I learned not to put +out traps until November. + +That the weather has much to do with the priming of furs and pelts +there is no question. If the fall is colder than usual the furs will +become prime sooner, while if the freezing weather is later the pelts +will be later in "priming up." + +In the sections where weasel turn white (then called ermine by many), +trappers have a good guide. When they become white they are prime and +so are most other land animals. In fact, some are fairly good a week +or two before. + +When a pelt is put on the stretcher and becomes blue in a few days it +is far from prime and will grade no better than No. 2. If the pelt +turns black the chances are that the pelt will grade No. 3 or 4, In +the case of mink, when dark spots only appear on the pelt, it is not +quite prime. + +Trappers and hunters should remember that no pelt is prime or No. 1 +when it turns the least blue. Opossum skins seldom turn blue even if +caught early--most other skins do. + + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +SEASON'S CATCH. + +The reason that many trappers make small catches, each season, is +from the fact that they spend only an hour or so each day at +trapping, while at most other business the party devotes the entire +day. The trapper who looks out his grounds some weeks in advance of +the trapping season is not idling his time away. He should also have +a line of traps constructed in advance of the trapping season. + +There is a fascination connected with trapping that fills one with a +strange feeling when all alone constructing deadfalls and snares or +on the rounds to see what success has been yours. I have often +visited traps of old trappers, where from two to five carcasses were +hanging from a nearby sapling. + +There are several instances on record where two animals have been +caught in one deadfall at the same time. A well-known trapper of Ohio +claims to have caught three skunk in one deadfall at one time a few +years since. Whether such is an actual fact or not we are unable to +say. The cases on record where two animals have been caught are so +well substantiated that there is little room left to doubt the truth +of same. + +The catching of two animals at the same time is not such an +extraordinary occurrence as many, at first, think. If two animals +should come along at the same time and, smelling the bait, begin a +meal, the result is easily seen. + +While trapping with deadfalls is a humane way of catching fur-bearing +animals, another thing in their favor is that skunk are usually +killed without "perfuming" themselves, trap and trapper as well. +Then, again, if once caught, there is no getting away. + +Trappers in the forest always have the necessary tools, axe or heavy +hatchet and knife, with which to build a deadfall, while their steel +traps may all be exhausted and none set within miles. A deadfall is +built and perhaps on the trapper's return an animal is lying dead +between the poles. + + * * * + +During extreme cold weather there is but little use to look at traps +set for skunk, raccoon, etc., as they do not travel. Before a thaw or +warm spell the entire line should be gone over and all old bait +removed and replaced with fresh bait. + +Like many another trapper you will visit your traps time after time +without catching much if any fur, yet if your traps are properly +constructed and are spread over a large area, you will catch +considerable fur during the season. + +Deadfalls and snares can be strung out for miles and while they +should be looked at every other day, in good trapping weather, they +can be neglected, if the trapper cannot get around more than twice a +week, without game escaping. If you visit your traps frequently there +will be no loss from injury to fur. While it is true, should a small +animal be caught in a heavy trap, one built for much larger game, it +will be considerably flattened out, yet the skin or fur is not +damaged. There is nothing to damage your catch, in most sections, +unless you do not visit your traps often enough in warm weather, when +they may be faintly tainted. Most trapping is done, however, in cool +weather, but occasionally there may come a warm spell when skins +become tainted. If found in such condition skin as soon as possible +and place upon boards or stretchers. + +Another thing greatly to the advantage of the deadfall and snare +trapper is the fact that a trapper never knows just when he will be +able to visit his traps again; the unexpected often happens, and +should it be a day or so longer than expected the deadfall or snare +still securely holds the game. + +As all experienced trappers know, the first night of a cold spell is +a splendid one for animals to travel (they seem forewarned about the +weather) and a good catch is the result. If the trapper is a "weather +prophet" his traps are all freshly baited and in order, for this is +the time that game is on the move--often looking up new and warm dens +and generally hungry. Should the next days be cold and stormy the +trapper should get over the line as promptly as possible. After once +getting over the line after the "cold spell," it is not so important +that traps be looked at for some days again. + +The successful trapper will always be on the watch of the weather. +Some animals, it is true, travel during the coldest weather, but +there are many that do not, so that the trapper who sees that his +deadfalls are freshly baited when the signs point to warmer weather. +After days and nights of severe weather most animals are hungry and +when the weather moderates they are on the move. + + * * * + +"I have more than one hundred deadfalls and catch large numbers of +skunk," writes a Connecticut trapper. "A few years ago a trapper +within two miles of here caught more than 60 coon in deadfalls. Since +then coon have been rather scarce, but I am going to try them this +coming fall. I prefer red squirrel for skunk bait to anything else, +and extract of valerian for scent. Try it, trapper--it can't be beat. +I have used it for twenty years and can catch my share every time." + + * * * + +The trapper that makes the largest catches usually is the one that +has deadfalls and snares in addition to steel traps. Recently two +trappers wrote of their season's catch and added that a good +proportion was caught in deadfalls and snares. These trappers were +located in Western Canada; marten 54, lynx 12, mink 19, ermine 71, +wild cat 11, foxes 18. + +While these trappers did not say, it is presumed that the foxes were +caught in snares or steel traps, for it is seldom that one is caught +in a deadfall. In Canada and the New England States, where foxes are +plentiful, the snare is used to a considerable extent. + +Skunk, mink, ermine, weasel and opossum are easily caught in +deadfalls. One trapper in a southern state is said to have caught 94 +mink, besides 38 coon and 57 opossum, in 28 deadfalls, from November +25th to February 25th, or three months. + + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + +GENERAL INFORMATION. + +Early in September, 1906, the editor spent a couple of days at his +home in Southern Ohio, where in the '80's along and near a small +stream known as Kyger Creek, considerable trapping was done. + +If readers are curious and have a good, large map of Ohio, and look +at the southern border, some fifty miles above the mouth of the +Scioto river, on a direct line or about double that by following the +winding of the river, they will find Kyger Creek. The stream is about +ten miles long and empties into the Ohio river below the village of +Cheshire. The country is rather rough and rocky, but the timber has +mainly disappeared. + +A quarter of a century ago, opossum, muskrat, skunk, and fox were +more numerous than now. Mink at that time were few, but in the early +'80's they seemed to become fairly plentiful all at once. The high +price has caused considerable trapping, and their number has +decreased of recent years. + +In trapping we found deadfalls, properly made, set and baited to be +an excellent trap for mink, skunk and opossum. As there were few coon +where we were trapping, but few were caught, yet an old trapper +nearby caught several in both deadfalls and steel traps each season. + +There is no doubt but that a trapper who expects to remain months at +the same place should have a few deadfalls. These traps, like steel +traps, to make catches, do not depend upon numbers so much as correct +and careful construction and setting. A half dozen deadfalls located +at the right places, carefully built and properly set, are worth +probably as much as fifty carelessly constructed and located at +haphazard. + +Some object to deadfalls because fox are seldom caught in them. It is +true that few fox are taken in deadfalls, although in the far North +some are, and especially Arctic and White fox. + +The deadfall trapper, however, who gives care and attention to his +traps finds them fur takers. They can be built small for weasel or a +little larger for mink, marten and civet cat; or larger for opossum +and skunk; still heavier for coon and wild cat and even to a size +that kills bear. + +Some trappers find the mink hard to catch. At some seasons they are +easy to take in deadfalls. Long in the '80's in five winters eight +mink were caught in one deadfall. The first winter one was caught; +second, two; third, three; fourth and fifth, each one. + +If our memory serves us right, the trap was first built in the fall +of 1887, and was located on the bank about ten feet to the left of a +sycamore, which at that time was standing. There was a den under the +tree entering near the water, with an outlet on the bank only a few +feet from the trap, and near where the pen and bait were located. + +This deadfall was built much like the illustration shown here. While +the fall was of hickory, not a vestige remained when looking at the +place in September, 1906. + +The pen should be built strong and tight so that the animal will not +tear it to pieces and get at the bait from the rear. The "fall" or +top pole can be of any kind of wood, but hickory, oak, beech, maple, +and other heavy wood are all good. The pole should be heavy enough to +kill the animal without placing any weights on it. When building it +is a good idea to let the top pole extend about a couple of feet +beyond the pen. This will give more weight on the animal when the +trap falls. + + [Illustration: A GOOD CATCHER.] + +The two piece triggers may work hard, especially if the log used for +the fall has rough bark on. In this case it might be well to smooth +with your axe or hatchet. In setting with the two piece trigger make +them out of as hard wood as can be found. The long piece can be +slightly flattened on the under side, or the side on which the upper +end of the upright or prop sets. The prop should be cut square on the +lower end while the upper end might be a little rounding, as this +will tend to make the top or bait trigger slip off easier. + +In setting raise up the top pole and hold in position with the knee. +This gives both hands free to adjust the triggers. When you think you +have them right, gradually let the weight off your knee and then try +the trigger. You will soon learn about how they are to be set. + +The bait should be tied on or the bait trigger may have a prong on to +hold the bait. If you find the bait gone and the trap still up the +chances are that it was set too hard and the animal stole the bait. + +Of late years in some sections, mice have been very troublesome, +eating the bait. In other places birds are bait stealers, and for +this reason it is best to set traps rather hard to throw. + +The location of a deadfall has much to do with the catch. Old +trappers know if they were to set a steel trap in a place not +frequented by fur bearers that their catch would be next to nothing. +The same applies to all sets, whether steel traps, snares or +deadfalls. + +In the illustration it will be noticed that the opening or the side +which the animal enters for bait is facing the creek. When building +these traps it will be found best to leave the open side toward the +water if trapping for mink or coon, as they generally leave the edge +of the water going directly to dens along and near the bank. + +The under log in the deadfall shown does not extend but a few inches +beyond the two end stakes. It should extend eight or ten inches +beyond. The four stakes at pen must be of sufficient length that when +the trap is set they extend above the top or fall pole. If they did +not, the trap in falling, might catch on the end of one of the stakes +and not go down. + +Along streams these traps need not be close. A couple to the mile is +plenty. Of course, if there are places where dens are numerous more +can be built to advantage, while along other stretches of water it +may be useless to build them at all. It all depends upon whether +animals travel there. You cannot catch them in any kind of trap if +they are not there. + +For opossum, skunk, mink, civet cat, coon, ermine, etc., find where +the animals live or where they go frequently searching for food. If +building where there are dens, either locate within a few feet of the +one that appears best or just off the path that the animal takes in +going from one to the other. Have the open part next to path and say +only three feet off. + +Marten trappers, while placing traps on high ground, do not pay so +much attention to dens and paths, for these animals spend much time +in trees looking for squirrels, birds, etc., but go through the +forest "spotting a line" and locate a deadfall in likely ground about +every 200 yards, or about 8 to the mile. + + + +CHAPTER XXV. + +SKINNING AND STRETCHING. + +Much importance should be attached to the skinning and stretching of +all kinds of skins so as to command the highest commercial value. The +fisher, otter, foxes, lynx, marten, mink, ermine, civet, cats and +skunk should be cased, that is, taken off whole. + +Commence with the knife in the center of one hind foot and slit up +the inside of the leg, up to and around the vent and down the other +leg in a like manner. Cut around the vent, taking care not to cut the +lumps or glands in which the musk of certain animals is secreted, +then strip the skin from the bone of the tail with the aid of a split +stick gripped firmly in the hand while the thumb of the other hand +presses against the animals back just above. Make no other slits in +the skin except in the case of the skunk and otter, whose tails +require to be split, spread, and tacked on a board. + +Turn the skin back over the body, leaving the pelt side out and the +fur side inward, and by cutting a few ligaments, it will peel off +very readily. Care should be taken to cut closely around the nose, +ears and lips, so as not to tear the skin. Have a board made about +the size and shape of the three-board stretcher, only not split in +halves. This board is to put the skin over in order to hold it better +while removing particles of fat and flesh which adheres to it while +skinning, which can be done with a blunt-edged knife, by scraping the +skin from the tail down toward the nose--the direction in which the +hair roots grow--never scrape up the other way or you will injure the +fiber of the skin, and care should be taken not to scrape too hard, +for if the skin fiber is injured its value is decreased. + + [Illustration: SINGLE AND THREE BOARD STRETCHER.] + +Now, having been thoroughly "fleshed," as the above process is +called, the skin is ready for stretching, which is done by inserting +the two halves of the three-board stretcher and drawing the skin over +the boards to its fullest extent, with the back on one side and the +belly on the other, and tacking it fast by driving in a small nail an +inch or so from each side of the tail near the edges of the skin; +also, in like manner the other side. Now insert the wedge and drive +it between the halves almost its entire length. Care should be taken, +however, to not stretch the skin so much as to make the fur appear +thin and thus injure its value. Now put a nail in the root of the +tail and fasten it to the wedge; also, draw up all slack parts and +fasten. Care should be taken to have both sides of the skin of equal +length, which can be done by lapping the leg flippers over each +other. Now draw up the under lip and fasten, and pull the nose down +until it meets the lip and tack it fast, and then the skin is ready +to hang away to cure. + +Do not dry skins at a fire or in the sun, or in smoke. It often burns +them when they will not dress and are of no value. Dry in a +well-covered shed or tent where there is a free circulation of air, +and never use any preparation, such as alum and salt, as it only +injures them for market. Never stretch the noses out long, as some +trappers are inclined to do, but treat them as above described, and +they will command better values. Fur buyers are inclined to class +long-nosed skins as "southern" and pay a small price for them, as +Southern skins are much lighter in fur than those of the North. + +The badger, beaver, bear, raccoon and wolf must always be skinned +"open;" that is, ripped up the belly from vent to chin after the +following manner: Cut across the hind legs as if to be "cased" and +then rip up the belly. The skin can then be removed by flaying as in +skinning a beef. + + * * * + +Another experienced trapper says: The animals which should be skinned +open are bear, beaver, raccoon, badger, timber wolf and wolverines. +The way to do this is to rip the skin open from the point of the +lower jaw, in a straight line, to the vent. Then rip it open on the +back of the hind legs, and the inside of the front legs, and peel the +skin carefully off the body. Beaver, however, should not have the +front legs split open and the tail, having no fur, is of course cut +off. If the skin is a fine one, and especially in the case of bear, +the feet should not be cut off, but should be skinned, leaving the +claws on. I would also advise saving the skull, and the proper way to +clean it is to scrape the flesh off with a knife. When the animal is +skinned, roll the skin up with the fur side out and put it in your +pack. + +See that there are no burrs or lumps of mud in the fur, before you do +any fleshing. My way of fleshing furs--there may be better ways--is +to draw the skin over a smooth board, made for the purpose and +scraping, or peeling, with a blunt edged knife. Commence at the tail, +and scrape towards the head, otherwise you may injure the fibre of +the hide. Over the back and shoulders of most animals is a thin layer +of flesh. This should be removed, and when done, there should be +nothing remaining but the skin and fur. Raccoon and muskrat are +easily fleshed by pinching the flesh between the edge of the knife +and the thumb. + +For stretching boards, I prefer a three board stretcher, but a plain +board will answer. For muskrats, use a single board. Open skins are +best stretched in frames or hoops, but it is all right to stretch +them on the wall on the inside of a building. The boards shown in the +cut are, to my notion, the proper shapes, and I would advise making a +good supply of them before the season commences. + + [Illustration: SOME STRETCHING PATTERNS.] + +To use these three board stretchers, insert the two halves of the +board in the skin, draw the skin down and fasten the hind legs, with +tacks, to the edges of the boards. This stretches the hide long. Then +insert the wedge between the two boards, which will stretch the skin +out to its fullest extent, and give it the proper shape. Finish by +fastening with tacks, pulling the nose over the point of the board, +and drawing the skin of the lower jaw up against the nose. Hang the +furs in a cool, dry place and as soon as they are dry, remove them +from the boards. Fox skins should be turned with the fur side out, +after removing from the board. + +In using the hoop stretcher, the hide is laced inside the hoop, with +twine, the skin of the coon being stretched square and the beaver +round. All other furs should be stretched so as not to draw them out +of their natural shape. If the weather is warm and the furs are +likely to taint, salt them. A salted skin is better than a tainted +one. Put salt in the tail, and punch a hole in the end of the tail, +with a pointed wire, to let the water drain out, or split the tail up +about one-half inch from tip. + +The skin of the bear is, perhaps, more likely to spoil than any +other, and the ears especially, are likely to taint and slip the fur. +To prevent this, slit the ears open on the inside, skin then back +almost to the edge and fill them with salt, also salt the base of the +ears, on the flesh side of the hide. + + * * * + + [Illustration: DAKOTA TRAPPERS' METHOD.] + +In stretching, says a North Dakota trapper, we use a one board +stretcher as follows: Put on the fur after you have fleshed it, the +four feet on one side and the tail on the other. Tack down the hind +feet and the tail, then take a piece of board about 1 x 1/4 inches +(this would be about the correct size for a mink) rounded off except +on one side. Put it below the fur on the side where the feet are, tie +the front feet. When you are going to take off the fur, pull out the +small board and the fur will come off easy. + + [Illustration: HOLDER FOR SKINNING.] + +A contrivance which I have found useful in skinning is made of a +piece of stiff wire 18 inches long. Bend this at the middle until it +has the shape of V with the ends about 8 inches apart. Bend up an +inch at each end to form a hook and when skinning, after cutting +around the hind feet, hook into the large tendons, hang on a nail or +over limb, etc., and go ahead with both hands. The wire must be +nearly as large as a slate pencil and will work all right from foxes +down to mink. Trappers will find this a great help in skinning +animals after they have become cold. Young trappers should use this +simple device as they will be less liable to cut holes in the skin. +It pays to be careful in skinning animals properly as well as to +stretch them correctly, for both add to their market value. + +How many trappers save the skulls of their larger game? All the +skulls of bear, puma or mountain lion, wolves, foxes and sometimes +those of lynx and wild cat are of ready sale if they contain good +sets of teeth. Several parties buy these skulls for cash. + +To prepare them the bulk of the flesh should be removed and the brain +and eyes also. Probably the easiest way to accomplish this is to boil +the skull with flesh on in an old pot until the meat begins to get +tender. Then, while hot, it may easily be cut away, and by enlarging +the hole at the back of the skull the brain may be scooped out. They +should be watched carefully as if boiled too long the teeth drop out, +bones separate and render the skull worthless. It is safe, but more +tedious to clean them with a sharp knife without boiling. + +The dealers pay from 50 cents for a bear skull to 15 cents for a fox, +tho taxidermists and furriers often pay much more. The British +Columbia Government pays bounties upon the skulls, only I think this +is a good idea as the skins are not mutilated and depreciated by +scalping, punching or cutting as usual. Save a few good skulls and +add dollars to the value of your catch. + + * * * + +Take two pieces of No. 9 fence wire about 30 inches long, writes an +Ohio coon hunter and trapper, file one end sharp, then commence at +each hind foot and punch the wire thru close to the edge as in +sewing, taking stitches an inch or so long until you get to the front +foot, then pull the hide along the wire just far enough so the top +and bottom will stretch out to make it square, or a few inches longer +than the width is better. + + [Illustration: WIRE COON METHOD.] + +Put 3 or 4 nails in each side, then commence at the top and tack all +but the head, then pull the bottom down even with the sides, not +tacking the head, which lets it draw down into the hide, then tack +the head. This is an easy and good way to handle coon skins making +them nearly square when stretched. + +Many inexperienced trappers stretch coon skins too long and draw out +the head and neck. This can be avoided by following instructions +given here. Coon can be cased but most dealers prefer to have them +stretched open. + + * * * + +Get a lot of steel wire, says a Missouri trapper who uses old +umbrella wires, the round solid ones. Sharpen one end, take your coon +skin and run one wire up each side and one across each end. + +In putting these wires in do it like the old woman knits, that is, +wrap the hide around the wire and stick it thru about every inch. Now +cut six small twigs, make them the proper length and notch the ends, +and you will soon have your hide stretched expert trapper style. + + [Illustration: WIRE AND TWIG COON METHOD.] + +The advantage of this is you can carry stretchers enough for +twenty-five skins in one hand and don't have to hunt up a barn door +and box of tacks and hammer every time you want to stretch one. You +can stretch in one-fourth the time it would take to tack up on a +board, and you will have it in first class style the first time and +not have to pull out a tack here and stretch a little more there. + + * * * + +I have always used the whole board (not split into two pieces and +wedged shape piece as some do), writes a Massachusetts trapper, and +made as follows: + +For mink I use a 3/8 inch board about 40 inches in length, 4 inches +wide at the large end, tapering to about 2 1/2 inches at the small +end with the edges planed down from near the middle of the board to +the edge, leaving a thin edge and sandpapered down smooth. I make the +board of this length for the reason that it sometimes happens that a +mink may have laid in a trap for several days before being taken out, +and if under water it is not always easy to determine the exact +length of time it has been in the trap, and there may be a +possibility that if put on the board to dry that having laid so long +it will taint before it will get thoroughly dry. I have seen them in +a case of this kind where several and perhaps nearly all the hairs on +the end of the tail would shed or pull out thereby damaging the skin +to a greater or less extent. + +Now when I get a mink in this condition after pulling on the board +and tacking all around, I split the tail open after which I lay it +open and tack all around the same way you would with an otter skin. +By employing this means you will often save the loss of the tail by +thus tainting and a corresponding loss on the value of the skin. The +value of the mink skin is in no way damaged by this process. Some +dealers prefer to have all the skins they buy cured in this manner. + +For stretching the muskrat skin I also use a board of the same +thickness as for mink, about 20 inches in length, 6 1/2 or 7 inches +at the large end with a slightly rounding taper to a width of about 3 +inches at small end, the sides planed down to a thin edge the same as +for the mink boards; in fact, I prefer the same manner of stretching +all cased skins, using care not to have the boards so wide as to +stretch the skins to a width much exceeding the natural width before +it was placed over the board, but giving them all the strain they +will stand with reason, lengthwise. If stretched too wide it tends to +make the fur thinner and lessens the value of it. + +I usually pull the skins, especially muskrats, onto the boards far +enough so that the smaller end will extend through the mouth of the +skin for perhaps 1/2 inch, and when the skins are sufficiently dry to +remove, all that is required is to take hold of them with a hand on +either edge of the skin and give it a sharp tap on the small end, +when the skin will come off at once. By stretching the skins on the +boards with the back on one side, belly on the opposite side, they +come off the boards looking smooth and uniform in width, and command +a great deal better price than if thrown on in a haphazard way on a +shingle or an inch board badly shaped, as a great many beginners do. +I have seen some shameful work done in this respect. + +It is always necessary to remove all surplus grease and fat which can +readily be done immediately after the skin is stretched, otherwise +they will heat, sweat and mold to a certain extent after they are +removed from the boards, which injures both the appearance and sale +of them. It is well to look after all these little details. These +descriptions are given with the desire to help some of the beginners. +If they will start in by using a little care in stretching and having +pride in their work they will find the business both more pleasant +and profitable. + + * * * + +If convenient when going into camp, writes an old successful trapper +who has pursued the fur bearers in many states, you should take +several stretching boards for your different kinds of fur with you. +If not, you can generally find a tree that will split good and you +can split some out. It is usually hard to find widths that are long +and straight enough to bend so as to form a good shaped stretcher. +You should always aim to stretch and cure furs you catch in the best +manner. + +In skinning you should rip the animal straight from one heel across +to the other and close to the roots of the tail on the under side. +Work the skin loose around the bone at the base until you can grasp +the bone of the tail with the first two fingers of the right hand +while you place the bone between the first two fingers of the left +hand. Then, by pulling you will draw the entire bone from the tail +which you should always do. + +Sometimes when the animal has been dead for some time the bone will +not readily draw from the tail. In this case cut a stick the size of +your finger about eight inches long. Cut it away in the center until +it will readily bend so that the two ends will come together. Then +cut a notch in each part of stick just large enough to let the bone +of the tail in and squeeze it out. It is necessary to whittle one +side of the stick at the notch so as to form a square shoulder. + +You should have about three sizes of stretching boards for mink and +fox. For mink they should be from 4 1/2 inches down to 3 inches and +for fox from 6 1/4 inches down to 5 inches wide, and in length the +fox boards may be four feet long, and the mink boards three feet +long. + +The boards should taper slightly down to within 8 inches of the end +for fox, and then rounded up to a round point. The mink boards should +be rounded at 4 or 5 inches from this point. You will vary the shape +of the board in proportion to the width. Stretching boards should not +be more than 3/8 inch thick. A belly strip the length or nearly the +length of the boards 1 1/4 inches at the wide end, tapering to a +point at the other end and about 1/4 to 3/8 inch thick. Have the +boards smooth and even on the edges. Other stretching boards should +be made in proportion to the size and shape of the animal whose skin +is to be stretched. + +You should not fail to remove all the fat and flesh from the skin +immediately after the skin is on the board. If a skin is wet when +taken from the animal it should be drawn lightly on a board until the +fur is quite dry. Then turn the skin flesh side out and stretch. + + * * * + +Beginning at the left, dimensions and skins stretched on the various +boards are given: + +No. 1. Mink board, length 28 inches and 4 wide. + +No. 2. Mink board, length 28 inches and 3 1/2 wide. + +No. 3. Weasel board length 20 inches and 2 1/2 wide. + +No. 4. Muskrat board, length 21 inches and 6 inches wide. + +No. 5. Opossum board, (small), length 20 inches and 6 1/2 inches +wide. + +No. 6. Skunk or opossum, (medium), length 28 inches and 7 inches +wide. + +No. 7. Skunk and opossum, (large), length 28 inches and 8 inches +wide. + + [Illustration: SIZE OF STRETCHING BOARDS.] + +Old and experienced hunters and trappers know about the shape and +size to make the various stretching boards for the fur bearers, but +for the guidance of beginners and those who are careless about +stretching pelts, the above description is especially meant. + +Trappers in Southern sections will no doubt find the boards as +described here too large for most of their skunk. In the Northeast +the mink boards will also be too large, but for this section (Ohio), +they are about correct. The general shape of the boards can be seen +from the illustration. + + * * * + +One of the best ways, writes a Minnesota trapper, to take off the +skin of an animal is by cutting the skin around the hind legs or +feet, and then slitting the skin down inside the hind legs to the +body joining the two slits between the hind legs, then remove the +skin on the tail by pushing up the thumb nail, or a thin flat piece +of wood against the bone of the tail and draw off the skin. + +Now commence to draw the body of the animal through the slit already +made without enlarging it, drawing the skin over itself, the fur side +within. When the forefeet are reached, cut the skin away from them at +the wrists, and then skin over the head until the mouth is reached +when the skin should be finally removed at the lips. + +One thing to be borne in mind when stretching a skin to dry, is that +it must be drawn tight; another, that it must be stretched in a place +where neither the heat of a fire or that of the sun will reach it too +strongly, and it should not be washed. Large skins may be nailed on a +wall of a shed or barn. + +The board stretcher should be made of some thin material. Prepare a +board of bass wood or some other light material, two feet three +inches long, three inches and a half wide at one end, and two inches +and an eighth at the other, and three-eighths of an inch thick. +Chamfer it from the center to the sides almost to an edge. Round and +chamfer the small end about an inch upon the sides. Split the board +through the center with a knife or saw, finally prepare a wedge of +the same length and thickness, one inch wide at the large end, and +taper to a blunt point. This is a stretcher suitable for a mink, or a +marten. + +Two large sizes with similar proportions are required for the large +animals, the largest size suitable for the full grown otter and wolf, +should be five feet and a half long, seven inches wide at the large +end when fully spread by the wedge, and six inches at the small end. +An intermediate size is required for the fisher, raccoon, fox and +some other animals, the proportions of which can be easily figured +out. + +These stretchers require that the skin of the animal should not be +ripped through the belly, but should be stripped off whole. Peel the +skin from the body by drawing it over itself, leaving the fur inward. +In this condition the skin should be drawn on to the split board +(with the back on one side and the belly on the other), to its utmost +length, and fastened with tacks, and then the wedge should be driven +between the two halves. Finally, make all fast by a tack at the root +of the tail, and another on the opposite side. The skin is then +stretched to its utmost capacity and it may be hung away to dry. + + * * * + +Not alone the skulls of the larger animals, but the skulls of any +game, the skeleton of any bird, or fish, has a ready market, provided +such specimens are properly cleaned, and in perfect condition. +However, the hunter or trapper must bear in mind the fact that it is +the perfect specimen that is in demand, and that a bruise on the bone +literally spoils it for the curator. + +If you will look carefully at any skull, you will notice that some of +the bones are very thin and frail, almost like a spider web. These +fine bones must be preserved if they are to be of any value to the +Comparative Anatomist, and boiling or scraping simply ruins them. So +much for the explanation. Now the method of cleaning, is by "rotting" +rather than scraping or boiling. Take the skull (or whole head) and +fix it solid in some can or jar, then fill it, or cover with water +and put away for three or four weeks. At the end of that time, pour +off the water and the bulk of the flesh will go too. Fill in with +clear water again, and repeat as often as necessary. I have found +that twice will do the work, and leave the bone in good condition. + +There is a market for most animal skulls, if not damaged, and it may +pay to preserve all. In the Hunter-Trader-Trapper, published at +Columbus, Ohio, usually will be found advertisements of parties who +buy them. + + * * * + +I have never had much luck with two-piece stretchers, but use thin +board stretchers in one piece with a "sword stick" on each side to +fully stretch and admit the air to both sides of the skin. This cures +the skin faster and better than when only one side is exposed to the +air, says a Maryland trapper. + + [Illustration: POLE STRETCHERS.] + +When off from home, I use stretchers made from saplings, as boards +suitable are not to be had everywhere, and cannot be bothered with +when going light. To make these, cut osier, willow or hickory +switches, straight and thick as the finger, about four feet long; cut +two short pieces for rats 4 and 6 inches long and carefully bending +the long piece. Nail these in with a small wire nail at each end. A +handful of shingle or lath nails and a clump of osier sprouts will +make a full outfit of stretchers for a temporary camp. + + * * * + +I know it is as much value in stretching your furs and preparing them +for market as it is in trapping, writes a trapper. If you have no +boards, go to your grocer or dry goods store and you can get all the +boxes you want for 5 or 10 cents apiece. They must not be over 3/8 of +an inch thick; if they are, plane them down smooth on both sides. + +I make what I call the two piece stretcher with a wedge for muskrats. +Take a board 20 inches long, 3/8 inch thick, 6 inches wide large end, +2 1/2 inches small end. Taper back 5 inches from small end. Now take +block plane and chaffer off each side an inch or more up and round it +off. Round and chaffer small end the same, almost to an edge. Now +draw a line thru the center of the board and saw it thru. + +Make a wedge the same length and thickness, 3/8 of an inch wide and +tapering down to 1/10 of an inch. If a large skin, push it in between +the halves. Bore a hole in large end and hang up in a cool ventilated +place to dry. After three days pull out wedge, and your fur will slip +right off without tearing. If the boards should warp over, tack a +strip across the large end. + +The mink stretchers are made on the same plan. A board the same +thickness, 30 inches long, 3 1/2 inches wide, taper down 2 1/8 small +end round chaffer. For large mink insert wedge made one inch wide. +Taper down to 2/8. For skunk and coon they are also good, only they +are made on a larger scale. + +Now a word about casing. Pull your hide on so the back is on one side +and the belly on the other. Pull nose over small end 1/2 inch. Put +two tacks on each side, now pull down tight to large end and put two +tacks each side, lay board on bench and take an old case knife, +scrape off all meat and fat and be careful not to scrape too thin, so +as not to cut the fibre of the skin. After you have scraped the flesh +off, insert the wedge and your skin will be tight. Do not stretch +your hide so it will make your fur look thin. + + * * * + +This is my way of stretching coon hide; use four-penny nails and use +either the inside or outside of some old building, inside is the +best. Drive the first nail thru nose. This holds the hide for +starting. Pull each forward leg up (not out) on a level with nose and +about seven or eight inches from nose according to size of the coon. +Drive next nail at root of tail, and pull down, moderately tight. + +Now pull each hind leg out about one inch wider than the fore legs +and a little below the tail nail. Now use a nail every inch and pull +the hide up between the forward legs and nose, until it comes +straight across. Next, treat the bottom of the hide the same as the +top. Use plenty of nails. To finish down the sides, drive a nail +first on one side and then on the other until finished. You will find +when done that the hide is nearly square with no legs sticking out +the sides and no notches in the skin. + + + +CHAPTER XXVI. + +HANDLING AND GRADING. + +MINK should be cased fur side in and stretched on boards for several +days or until dry. + +SKUNK should be cased fur side in and stretched on boards for several +days. The white stripe cut out, blackened, etc., reduces the value. + +RACCOON should be stretched open (ripped up the belly) and nailed on +boards or the inside of a building. Some dealers allow as much for +coon cased, from any section, while others prefer that only Southern +coon be cased. + +FOXES of the various kinds should be cased and put on boards fur side +in for a few days, or until dry. As the pelt is thin they soon dry, +when they must be taken off and should be turned fur side out. In +shipping see that they are not packed against furs flesh side out. + +LYNX should be cased and after drying properly are turned fur side +out, same as foxes. + +OTTER are cased and stretched fur side in. The pelt being thick and +heavy, takes several days to dry properly. They are shipped flesh +side out. Sea otter are handled the same as fox, lynx and marten, +that is, fur side out. + +BEAVER are split but stretched round and should be left in the hoop +or stretcher for several days. + +BEAR should be handled open and stretched carefully. In skinning be +careful and leave nose, claws and ears on the hide. + +WOLVES can be handled same as bear, also wolverine. + +FISHER should be cased and stretched flesh side out, but may be sent +to market same as foxes or fur out. + +MARTEN should be stretched and dried on boards, fur side in, but +turned as soon as dried. + +OPOSSUM are stretched on boards fur side in and are left in that +condition after removing the boards. Cut the tails off when +skinning--they have no value. + +MUSKRAT should be stretched fur side in and a few days on the boards +is sufficient. They are left as taken off, that is, fur side in. Cut +the tails off when skinning--they are worthless. + +WEASEL should be cased, fur side in. The pelts are thin and soon dry. +Leave fur side in after taking off boards. + +BADGER are split and should be nailed to the inside of a building to +dry. + +CIVET CAT should be cased and stretched on boards fur side in. When +dry remove boards and leave fur side in. + +RING TAIL CATS should be cased and after removing boards are +generally left fur side in for market. + +WILD CAT are cased and stretched on boards. They may be turned fur +out or left as taken from the stretchers, fur side in. + +HOUSE CAT are cased and stretched on boards fur side in. They are +sent to market usually fur side in. + +RABBITS are cased fur in and, as the pelt is thin, soon dry. They are +shipped fur side in. + +PANTHER are treated much the same as bear. Care should be taken in +skinning to leave claws, ears, nose, etc., on the skin for mounting +purposes. + + * * * + +My experience has been that the house which makes only four grades of +prime goods is the house that you will receive the largest checks +from for your collection, writes a Michigan collector of 50 years' +experience. So many grades quoted makes it possible for a firm to +successfully squelch you a little every time you ship and yet you can +have no reasonable excuse to complain for when you ship, you know +that in some houses there is a grade for nearly every skin you send. +So I, for one, would rather risk the fewer grades. + +A trapper from Wisconsin says: For sample, say mink are worth from 25 +cents to $3.00. There would be 275 prices between the extremes. Now +if he is a fur buyer I certainly pity the trappers that would have to +take those 275 different prices for their mink. A man should be able +to know the difference between grades No. 1, 2, 3 and 4, and when he +does he is then able to give a fair and honest price for every skin +he buys. If he doesn't know the difference then, he had better get a +job clerking in a hotel or sawing wood. + + * * * + +Many have requested that the difference in the various grades of +skins be explained and for their benefit, as well as others of little +experience, the following may prove instructive. + +Raw furs are assorted into four grades, viz: No. 1, No. 2, No. 3 and +No. 4. With the exception of skunk and muskrat most houses subdivide +the No. 1 skins into large, medium and small. In addition to this +many firms quote a range of prices about as follows: Mink, Northern +New York, large $6.00 to $8.00. Would it not be more satisfactory to +quote one price only? + +It is generally known that Minnesota mink are large. From that state +a No. 1 medium mink is as large as a No. 1 large from Maine, where +mink are rather small. But as the dealers on their price lists quote +the various states and sections, why not quote one price only as +follows: + +MINK, NORTHERN NEW YORK, NO. 1. + +Large, Medium, Small, No. 2, No. 3, No. 4, +$7.00. $5.00. $3.00 $1.50. $0.75. $0.20 + +These figures, of course, are only given for illustration and are not +meant to show value. + +Furs from the various parts of North America have their peculiar +characteristics and it is easy for the man of experience to tell in +what part of the country a pelt was caught. It may be shipped by a +collector hundreds of miles from where caught, but if there are many +in the collection the expert will soon detect it. This knowledge, +however, only comes with years of experience. + +Prime skins are those caught during cold weather and the pelt after +drying a few days is bright and healthy appearing. + +Unprime skins are those that turn blue or black after being stretched +for a time. Usually the darker the pelt the poorer the fur. If only +slightly blued the pelt may go back only one grade, while if black it +is apt to be no better than No. 3 or No. 4 and may be trash of no +value. + +Springy skins, as the name indicates, are those taken toward the last +of the season or in the spring and tho often prime pelted, have begun +to shed. The beginner is often deceived, for he thinks if the pelt is +prime, the fur is. Foxes and other animals are often "rubbed" toward +spring, which of course lessens their value. + +A No. 1 skin must be not only average in size but free from cuts, +etc. No unprime skin will grade better than No. 2. + +Skunk, to be No. 1 or black, must be prime in pelt, fair size and +stripe not extending beyond the shoulders. The day that only "star +black" were taken for No. 1 is passed, for most trappers and shippers +know better now. + +A No. 2, or short striped skunk, is prime and the stripes, if narrow, +may extend nearly to the tail. A small No. 1 or a blued No. 1 is +graded No. 2. + +A No. 3 or long stripe has two stripes extending the entire length, +but there must be as much black between the stripes as either of the +white stripes. + +In some of the states, such as Minnesota, Iowa, the Dakotas, etc., +skunk are large and are nearly all striped the same--long narrow +stripes--but owing to their size they are worth about the same as the +eastern short stripe or No. 2. + +A No. 4, broad or white skunk, is prime but has two broad stripes +extending down the back. Most dealers class skunk as No. 4 if either +white stripe contains more white than there is black between the two +stripes. + +All unprime skunk are graded down to No. 2, 3 and 4 according to +depth of fur and stripe. A No. 1 skunk in stripe, but blue, becomes a +No. 2, or if badly blued No. 3 or 4; a No. 2 skunk in stripe but blue +becomes a No. 3; a No. 3 in stripe but blue, a No. 4; a No. 4 in +stripe but blue generally goes into trash. In fact, if badly blued, +any of the grades may be thrown to trash. + +Muskrat are assorted into four grades--spring, winter, fall and +kitts. Spring rats are known as No. 1; winter, No. 2; fall, No. 3; +Kitts, No. 4. + +No. 1 or spring rats are those taken in March and April. The pelt is +then of a reddish color and is entirely free from dark spots. A few +spring rats may be caught earlier than March, but so long as they +show dark spots they are not No. 1. + +No. 2, or winter rats, are pretty well furred, but there are dark +streaks and spots in the hide usually on the back. + +No. 3 or fall are not full furred and the pelt is far from prime. The +dark streaks show much more than later in the season. + +No. 4, or kitts, are only partly grown or if larger are badly +damaged. + +Opossum is the only animal that may have a "prime" pelt but an +"unprime" coat of fur. This makes opossum rather difficult to assort +unless turned fur side out. + +If opossum have been properly skinned and stretched they will, when +unprime, show a dark blue spot on the under side at the throat. The +plainer this spot the poorer the fur. + +Good unprime skins are No. 2; poor unprime skins, No. 3; the very +poor and stagey, no fur, are No. 4, generally known as trash and of +no value. + +The other fur-bearers, such as mink, otter, beaver, fox, wolves, +lynx, wild cat, fisher, raccoon, bear, badger, civet cat, weasel, +etc., are graded much the same that is, all skins to be No. 1 must be +caught in season, when the fur is prime, at which time the "pelt" is +healthy appearing--never blue or black--must be of average size, +correctly skinned, handled and free of cuts or shot holes. + +Skins may be unprime from several causes, viz: caught too early, +improperly handled, under size, etc. Unprime skins are graded No. 2, +3 and 4 according to how inferior they are. The fairly well furred +unprime skins are graded No. 2; the low furred unprime skins are +thrown to No. 3; the poorly furred are thrown to No. 4, while low +stagey skins go to trash. + +Some skins altho prime are so small that they grade No. 3. This, +however, is the exception rather than the rule. Usually if prime, the +under size will only put the skin down one grade. + + * * * + +I have bought some for a number of years, writes a collector, and +know that some trappers are like some farmers, they want as much +money for a bushel of dirty wheat as their neighbor gets for a bushel +of clean wheat. I have had skunk and opossum hides offered me that +had a pound or two of tainted fat on them, and skins that were taken +out of season, for which they expect to get No. 1 prices. + +There are some who stretch their skins in the shape of an oblong +triangle and leave flesh enough on to make their dinner. Stretch your +hides as near the shape of the animal as possible; don't try to make +a muskrat hide as long as a mink, or a mink as wide as a muskrat. +Catch in season, flesh carefully, stretch in good shape, always take +bone out of tails, keep in an airy building until dry and then you +will not have to grumble so much at the buyer in regard to prices. + + + +CHAPTER XXVII. + +FROM ANIMAL TO MARKET. + +Under this title, says an experienced Western trapper, I shall +endeavor to show my brother trappers how to handle pelts: + +As soon as I get in from my traps (I use a team and wagon), I feed +team, dogs and self, then I proceed to skin the game in the usual +manner; when game is all skinned I put on my fleshing suit, made of +rubber cloth like that buggy curtains are made of, get out my +fleshing boards, of which I have three sizes--large, medium and +small--for each kind of cased skins except rat, which I flesh with +thumb and knife. The fleshing boards are like Fig. 1 on enclosed +diagram, made of 1 inch pine free from knots and dressed on both +sides, 3 feet 6 inches long, and for skunk 3/4 in. and 10 in. wide, +tapered up to a blunt point, edges rounded and sandpapered smooth. +These boards can be made of other sizes so as to fit larger or +smaller pelts of other kinds. + + [Illustration: FLESHING BOARD.] + +For a flesher I have tried nearly everything imaginable, dull knives, +hardwood scrapers, etc., but have abandoned them all for the hatchet. +I use an old lath hatchet head and use it tolerably sharp; I proceed +as follows: Put pelt on board but do not fasten, grip lower edge with +left hand, pull down hard, place point of board against breast and +use hatchet with right, pushing down and holding hatchet nearly flat; +use plenty of elbow grease; as fast as you get a strip cleaned off +turn hide a little but do not flesh on edge of board. It may not work +good at first and you may cut one or two hides, but you will soon get +the knack. + + [Illustration: STRETCHING FRAME.] + +If possible take a bitch skunk for the first as they flesh easier, +and be sure there are no burrs or chunks of mud in the fur, or you +will cut a hole the size of the burr. Now for the stretchers. In Fig. +2 is what I use; it is something of my own invention, and there is no +patent on it. It is made of any wood that will split straight, and +the dimensions are as follows: Pieces are 4 ft. long by 1 3/8 in. +dressed smooth; pieces are 1 1/2 X 3/8 in.; will say for large skunks +here they would be 10 in. and 4 1/2 in. To frame you must soak or +steam the long pieces; mitre the ends and fasten with 3d finishing +nails clinched. Then place in position 1 in. from ends and fasten +with two 6d finishing nails; place in position and pull up to 8 in. +from nose and fasten: now chamfer off edges and sandpaper smooth. + +I like this stretcher, as it airs both sides of pelt and will dry +them in half the time. Fig 3 shows manner of fastening pelt; on belly +side it can be drawn down and fastened to tail pieces with sack +needle and twine; it is made of two or more poles fastened in the +shape of a hoop. + +In shipping furs, bale tight; do not ship loose in sack; place mink +and rat inside of skunk and other fur, and always place the toughest +pelts on outside. By bailing tight you will avoid crinkling and they +will not look mussy and will bring from 5 to 10 per cent more. Now, +brother trappers, fleshing pelts, as I understand it, is not merely +taking the fat off, but in going deeper and taking the flesh clean +from the pelt so that if skunk, the stripe will show clear the full +length and reducing the weight by half. On February 2nd. I shipped 15 +skunk, all large; the lot only weighed 9 pounds including sack. + + [Illustration: SKIN ON STRETCHER.] + +When stretching skunk and otter skins, if the weather is warm, split +the tails, open and tack flat. Split open half way all others that +have fur tails. Open pelts can be stretched in hoops made of one or +more poles an inch or so in diameter, and sewed in with a sack needle +and heavy twine. + +In stretching do not get the pelt so wide that the fur looks thin, or +so long and narrow that it looks as if a horse had been hitched to +each end. Keep the natural shape of the animal as much as possible, +dry in a cool, airy place inside, or on the north side of a building +and away from fire. + +Baling--here is where the expert trapper shows his craft, and in +baling you will see him wipe off all surplus fat and dirt and place +the heavy pelts on the outside of his pack. The lighter furs, such as +mink, marten, cat, etc., will be placed inside of the skins that are +heavier. For instance: From four to eight rats or mink, inside of a +fox or skunk. He will place the head of one to the tail of another, +the tails folded in. He now ties a cord tightly around each end, +placing them on a square of burlap, and with sack needle and twine +draws up the sides as tight as he can; then he folds in the ends and +sews up snug. Furs thus packed reach the market in good shape, and +not such as they would if crammed promiscuously into a sack. + + [Illustration: WRAP WITH WIRE AT JOINTS.] + +In conclusion, boys, let me suggest a maxim or two for your guidance: +"Prime caught and well handled furs always bring top prices." "Take +pride in your catch, no matter how small." + +While the heading of this chapter is "From Animal to Market" it is +well when shipping to request the dealer to grade and send value. If +satisfactory, write to send on check. If not satisfactory, have +dealer return furs. + +When shipping furs under these conditions see that no green skins are +sent--only properly cured ones. + +While some dealers offer to pay expressage both ways we hardly think +this fair and if no deal is made the dealer should pay the expressage +one way and the shipper the other. + +The Hunter-Trader-Trapper, published at Columbus, Ohio, in the +interests of hunters, trappers and dealers in raw furs contains a +great deal of information that will be of value along the line of +shipping furs as well as trapping methods, etc. + + + +CHAPTER XXVIII. + +STEEL TRAPS. + +This book would not be complete without at least a few pages devoted +to steel traps. While a few steel traps were in use prior to 1850, +yet it has only been since that date that they have come into general +use. During recent years they have become cheaper and trappers in all +parts of America are using them in greater numbers. + +Professional trappers in the North, Northwest and Southwest often +have out lines many miles long and use 200 to 350 steel traps of the +various sizes. + +Each of the three main sets--land, water and snow are used in various +ways and to describe all of these would require a book. + +Steel traps are made in various sizes from No. 0 to No. 6, to meet +the requirements of trappers for the various animals. The best traps +manufactured are the Newhouse made by the well-known trap +manufacturers--Oneida Community, Ltd., Oneida, N. Y. A brief +description of these follows: + + [Illustration: Newhouse No. 0 Trap] + +Spread of Jaws, 3 1/2 inches. This, the smallest trap made, is used +mostly for catching the gopher, a little animal which is very +troublesome to western farmers, and also rats and other vermin. It +has a sharp grip and will hold larger game, but should not be +overtaxed. + + [Illustration: Newhouse No. 1 Trap] + +Spread of Jaws, 4 inches. This Trap is used for catching muskrats and +other small animals, and sold in greater numbers than any other size. +Its use is well understood by professional trappers and it is the +most serviceable size for catching skunks, weasels, rats and such +other animals as visit poultry houses and barns. + + [Illustration: Newhouse No. 81 Trap] + +Spread of Jaws, 4 inches. Occasionally animals free themselves from +traps by gnawing their legs off just below the trap jaws, where the +flesh is numb from pressure. Various forms of traps have been +experimented with to obviate this difficulty. The Webbed Jaws shown +above have proved very successful in this respect. + +Noting the cross-section of the jaws, as illustrated at the left, it +is plain the animal can only gnaw off its leg at a point quite a +distance below the meeting edges. The flesh above the point of +amputation and below the jaws will swell and make it impossible to +pull the leg stump out of the trap. + +The No. 81 Trap corresponds in size with the regular No. 1 Newhouse. + + [Illustration: Newhouse No. 91 Trap] + +Spread of Jaws--91, 5 1/4 inches; 91 1/2, 6 1/4 inches. The double +jaws take an easy and firm grip so high up on the muskrat that he can +not twist out. A skunk cannot gnaw out either. + +These traps are especially good for muskrat, mink, skunk and raccoon. + +All parts of the No. 91 except the jaws are the same size as the +regular No. 1 Newhouse, while the 91 1/2 corresponds to the regular +No. 1 1/2. + + [Illustration: Newhouse No. 1 1/2 Trap] + +Spread of Jaws, 4 7/8 inches. This size is called the Mink Trap. It +is, however, suitable for catching the woodchuck, skunk, etc. +Professional trappers often use it for catching foxes. It is very +convenient in form and is strong and reliable. + + [Illustration: Newhouse No. 2 Trap] + +Spread of Jaws, 4 7/8 inches. The No. 2 Trap is called the Fox Trap. +Its spread of jaws is the same as the No. 1 1/2 but having two +springs it is, of course, much stronger. + + [Illustration: Newhouse No. 3 Trap] + +Spread of Jaws, 5 1/2 inches. This, the Otter Trap, is very powerful. +It will hold almost any game smaller than a bear. + + [Illustration: Newhouse No. 4 Trap] + +Spread of Jaws, 6 1/2 inches. This is the regular form of Beaver +Trap. It is longer than the No. 3 Trap, and has one inch greater +spread of jaws. It is a favorite with those who trap and hunt for a +living in the Northwest and Canada. It is also extensively used for +trapping the smaller wolves and coyotes in the western stock raising +regions. + + [Illustration: Newhouse No. 2 1/2 Trap] + +Spread of Jaws, 6 1/2 inches. In some localities the otter grows to +an unusual size, with great proportionate strength, so that the +manufacturers have been led to produce an especially large and strong +pattern. All the parts are heavier than the No. 2 1/2, the spread of +jaws greater and the spring stiffer. + + [Illustration: Newhouse No. 3 1/2 Trap] + +Spread of Jaws, 5 inches. The above cut represents a Single Spring +Otter Trap. It is used more especially for catching otter on their +"slides." For this purpose a thin, raised plate of steel is adjusted +to the pan so that when the trap is set the plate will be a trifle +higher than the teeth on the jaws. The spring is very powerful, being +the same as used on the No. 4 Newhouse Trap. The raised plate can be +readily detached if desired, making the trap one of general utility. + + [Illustration: Newhouse No. 21 1/2 Trap] + +Single Spring. Same as No. 2 1/2 but without Teeth or Raised Plate. + +No. 31 1/2 NEWHOUSE TRAP. + +Single Spring. Same as No. 3 1/2 but without Teeth or Raised Plate. + +Spread of Jaws--No. 21 1/2, 5 1/4 inches; No. 31 1/2, 6 1/2 inches. +These Traps are the largest smooth jaw, single spring sizes that are +made. Professional trappers will find these especially valuable when +on a long trapping line, as they are more compact and easier to +secrete than the large double spring traps. The springs are made +extra heavy. + +Note.--The 21 1/2 is practically a single spring No. 3 and the 31 1/2 +a single spring No. 4. + + [Illustration: Newhouse No. 14 Trap] + +Spread of Jaws, 6 1/2 inches. This Trap is the same in size as the +No. 4 Beaver, but has heavier and stiffer springs and offset jaws, +which allow the springs to raise higher when the animal's leg is in +the trap, and is furnished with teeth sufficiently close to prevent +the animal from pulling its foot out. + + [Illustration: Clutch Detachable Trap] + +Clutch Detachable--Trap can be used with or without it. + +Spread of Jaws, No. 23, 5 1/2 inches; No. 24, 6 1/4 inches. The +inventor of this attachment claims to have had wonderful success with +it in taking beaver. The trap should be set with the clutch end +farthest from shore. The beaver swims with his fore legs folded back +against his body, and when he feels his breast touch the bank he puts +them down. The position of the trap can be so calculated that he will +put his fore legs in the trap, when the clutch will seize him across +the body and hold him securely. + + [Illustration: Newhouse No. 4 1/2 Trap] + +In response to a demand for a new model of the Newhouse Trap +especially adapted to catching wolves, the manufacturers have +perfected a trap which is numbered 4 1/2 and is called the "Newhouse +Wolf Trap." + +This trap has eight inches spread of jaw, with other parts in +proportion, and is provided with a pronged "drag," a heavy snap and +an extra heavy steel swivel and chain, five feet long, warranted to +hold 2,000 pounds. The trap complete with chain and "drag" weighs +about nine pounds. + + [Illustration: Newhouse No. 50 Trap] + +Spread of Jaws, 9 inches. This trap is intended for catching small +sized bears. In design it is exactly like the standard No. 5 Bear +Trap, only that the parts are all somewhat smaller. Weight, 11 1/4 +pounds each. + + [Illustration: Newhouse No. 150 Trap] + +Spread of Jaws, 9 inches. This trap is identical with No. 5 excepting +that the jaws are offset, making a space five-eighths inch between +them. This allows the springs to come up higher when the bear's foot +is in the trap, and thus secure a better grip. Also there is less +chance of breaking the bones of the foot. Weight, 11 1/4 pounds each. + + [Illustration: Newhouse No. 5 Trap] + +Spread of Jaws, 11 3/4 inches. This trap weighs nineteen pounds. It +is used for taking the common black bear and is furnished with a very +strong chain. + + [Illustration: Newhouse No. 15 Trap] + +Spread of Jaws, 11 3/4 inches. To meet the views of certain hunters +whose judgment is respected, the manufacturers designed a style of +jaw for the No. 5 trap, making an offset of 3/4 of an inch, so as to +allow the springs to come up higher when the bear's leg is in the +trap. This gives the spring a better grip. Those wishing this style +should specify "No. 15." + + [Illustration: Newhouse No. 6 Trap] + +Spread of Jaws, 16 inches. Weight, complete, 42 pounds. This is the +strongest trap made. We have never heard of anything getting out of +it when once caught. It is used to catch lions and tigers, as well as +the great Grizzly Bears of the Rocky Mountains. + + [Illustration: Bear Chain Clevis and Bolt] + +This cut illustrates Bear Chain Clevis and Bolt, intended as a +substitute for the ring on the end of the trap chain, when desired. + +With this clevis a loop can be made around any small log or tree +without the trouble of cutting to fit the ring. The chain is made +five feet long, suitable for any clog, and the prices of bear traps +fitted with it are the same as with the regular short chain and ring. + + [Illustration: Steel Trap Setting Clamp] + +Every trapper knows how difficult it is to set a large trap alone in +the woods, especially in cold weather, when the fingers are stiff, +and the difficulty is greatly increased when one has to work in a +boat. One of these clamps applied to each spring will by a few turns +of the thumb-screws, bend the springs to their places, so that the +pan may be adjusted without difficulty. No. 4 Clamp can be used on +any trap smaller than No. 4 1 /2. No. 5 and 6 are strong clamps, +carefully made and especially adapted to setting the large traps Nos. +4 1/2 to 6. They dispense with the inconvenient and dangerous use of +levers. With them one can easily set these powerful traps. These +clamps are also useful about camp for other purposes. + + + +END OF DEADFALLS AND SNARES + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Deadfalls and Snares, by +A. R. (Arthur Robert) Harding + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DEADFALLS AND SNARES *** + +***** This file should be named 34110.txt or 34110.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/4/1/1/34110/ + +Produced by Linda M. Everhart, Blairstown, Missouri + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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