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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/34107-8.txt b/34107-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a38095a --- /dev/null +++ b/34107-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2400 @@ +Project Gutenberg's The Curry Cook's Assistant, by Daniel Santiagoe + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Curry Cook's Assistant + or, Curries, How to Make Them in England in Their Original Style + +Author: Daniel Santiagoe + +Release Date: October 20, 2010 [EBook #34107] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CURRY COOK'S ASSISTANT *** + + + + +Produced by Jana Srna and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This book was +produced from scanned images of public domain material +from the Google Print project.) + + + + + + + [ Transcriber's Note: + Every effort has been made to replicate this text as faithfully as + possible, including inconsistencies in spelling and hyphenation; + changes (corrections of spelling and punctuation) made to the + original text are listed at the end of this file. + + a and o with macron have been replaced with â and ô, respectively. + ] + + + + + THE + CURRY COOK'S ASSISTANT + + + + +NOTE ABOUT "CURRIES" IN "SATURDAY REVIEW," OCTOBER 22, 1887. + + +Everybody who likes Curry, and who can get it (the pamphlet, not the +Curry), should invest in a little pamphlet by "DANIEL SANTIAGOE, son of +Francis Daniel, butler and fiddler, of Colombo, Ceylon, and the Ceylon +Court, Royal Jubilee Exhibition, Liverpool." It is written in delightful +pigeon-English (or whatever other bird may be more appropriate to +Ceylon's isle), is quite unpretentious, avows the author's very +legitimate, and, indeed, laudable desire to "make a small fortune" by +its sale, and contains admirable receipts. Mr. Santiagoe is much less +cynical than the apocryphal Mrs. Glasse. He says, after recommending the +more excellent way of the Curry Stone, "The best and easy way is to buy +from your respected grocers, which, I should say, ought to be of two +colours--one is brown and the other is yellow, and the red is cayenne +pepper (if required, hot curries)." He is a little plaintive about +mulligatawny. "Why English people always spell this word wrong? +Everybody knows this--mollagoo, 'pepper;' tanney, 'water.'" So the +reformers who call it "mulligatunny" are just as bad as we devotees of +mumpsimus and mulligatawny ourselves. We note with special pleasure a +receipt for "chicken moley"--evidently the same genus as that "mollet" +which puzzled Mrs. Clarke. And all the prescriptions are interesting. +"Maldive fish" seems to take the place of "Bombay duck" in these +southern regions, and the number of Vegetable Curries is particularly +noteworthy. Nobody need think from the specimens we have given that +Mr. Santiagoe is unintelligible. His English may be "pigeon," but it +is a much more easily digestible tongue than the high and mighty +gobble-gobble of some of our own professors of style and matter. + +[True copy from "SATURDAY REVIEW."] + + + + + THE + CURRY COOK'S ASSISTANT; + + OR + + CURRIES, + HOW TO MAKE THEM IN ENGLAND + _IN THEIR ORIGINAL STYLE_. + + + BY + DANIEL SANTIAGOE, General Servant, + SON OF FRANCIS DANIEL, Butler and Fiddler, Trichinopoly, + Madras, India, and Colombo, Ceylon + + CEYLON TEA HOUSE WAITER + + Royal Jubilee Exhibition, Liverpool, 1887 + International Exhibition, Glasgow, 1888 + + + THIRD EDITION + + + LONDON + KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH & CO., 1, PATERNOSTER SQUARE + 1889 + + + + + (_The rights of translation and of reproduction are reserved._) + + + + +INDEX. + + +LIST AND NAMES OF CURRIES, Etc. + + NO. PAGE + + 1. Home-made Curry Powder 1 + + 2. Beef Curry (Plain) 5 + + 3. Beef Curry (Ceylon Way) 6 + + 4. Beef Curry (Madras) 7 + + 5. Beef Curry (Kabob) Madras 9 + + 6. Beef Curry (Dry) do. 11 + + 7. Beef Curry (Balls) do. 12 + + 8. Chicken Curry do. 13 + + 9. Snipe Curry do. 14 + + 10. Pigeon Curry do. 15 + + 11. Pork Curry do. 16 + + 12. Veal Curry do. 17 + + 13. Mutton Curry do. 18 + + 14. Partridge Curry do. 19 + + 15. Tripe Curry do. 20 + + 16. Liver Curry do. 21 + + 17. Chops Curried do. 22 + + 18. Steaks Curried do. 23 + + 19. Game Curry (Various) Madras 24 + + 20. Rabbit (or Young Hare) Curry 25 + + 21. Egg Curry (Whitish Yellow) 27 + + 22. Egg Curry (Brown) 28 + + 23. Egg Curry (Omelet) 30 + + 24. Egg Curry (Poached) 31 + + 25. Fried Eggs for Curries 32 + + 26. Curry Sauce (Brown), for any Meat 33 + + 27. Curry Sauce (Yellow), for Vegetables and Fish 35 + + 28. Curried Fowl (a Joint) 36 + + 29. Chicken Moley 38 + + 30. Fish Moley 39 + + 31. Fish Curry (Salmon) 41 + + 32. Fish Curry (Various) 42 + + 33. Sardines Curried 43 + + 34. Vegetable Curries 44 + + 35. Potato Curry 45 + + 36. Cabbage Curry 46 + + 37. Bean Curry 47 + + 38. Onion Curry 48 + + 39. Devilled Cabin Biscuits 49 + + 40. Devilled Meats 50 + + 41. Mulligatawny 51 + + 42. Pillau Rice (a Mohammedan Dish) 53 + + 43. Lemon (Hot) Sauce 54 + + 44. Apple Chutney (How to Make it in England) 55 + + 44a. Mint Chutney 56 + + 45. Quickly-made Samball 57 + + 46. How to Fry Red Herrings for Curries 58 + + 47. Toast Curry 59 + + 48. How to Make Rice Powder 60 + + 49. Mushrooms Curried and Served on Toast 61 + + 50. How to Boil Rice for Curries 62 + + 51. A Salad for Dinner, etc., in Hot Weather 64 + + 52. Sundal or Poogathu, made of Cabbage and other Greens 66 + + 53. Vegetables Boiled for Table 67 + + 54. Economical Curry Paste 68 + + 55. Curry Powder (a Recipe) 69 + + 56. Curry Powder (Ordinary Way) 70 + + 57. Curry Powder (a Most Excellent) 71 + + 58. Tomato Curry 73 + + 59. Curries under Various Names 74 + + 60. Chutney Chicken 75 + + 61. When to use Curries 76 + + Tamil and English Names for Curry Stuffs, Etc. 77 + + + + +INTRODUCTION BY J. L. SHAND, Esq. + + +Daniel Santiagoe, who has twice come from his Ceylon home to serve me in +England and Scotland, now gives to the world a second edition of a very +valuable little book, and has asked me to write him an introduction. + +An introduction is generally apologetic, but I depart from custom and +congratulate the purchasers of this book upon obtaining a collection of +recipes which may add much to their gastronomic enjoyment, and perhaps +also contribute to health and longevity. + +"I do not care for Curry, it is too hot!!!" is a common but erroneous +plaint; and the disciple of Santiagoe will find recipes which provide +the full delicacy of Eastern condiments without the discomfort of +excessive heat. + +Why do old East Indians live so long? is a question often asked. + +Because so many of them are pensioners, says the student of finance. + +Because so many of them are Curry eaters, says the student of hygiene. + +All human nature requires to be occasionally stimulated, and a mild +Curry acts upon the torpid liver, reacts upon the digestive organs, and +provides the necessary stimulant without injurious consequences. + +It is a remarkable fact that nearly all Curry-eating nations are +abstainers from strong drinks. + +Daniel Santiagoe's English may occasionally provoke a smile, but it is +"English as she is spoken" by several millions of Her Majesty's +subjects, and its originality often lends it force. + +Were excuse necessary it would be found in this, that Daniel Santiagoe +is a domestic servant to whom English is a foreign tongue. + + JOHN LOUDOUN SHAND. + +24, Rood Lane, London, E.C. + + + + +PREFACE BY AUTHOR. + + +With much thankfulness to Mr. A. Egmont Hake for his kindness in writing +a preface for my first book on Curries, and great credit is due to +_Saturday Review_ and humble respect is due to my two masters, Shand, +Haldane & Co., of London, who brought me over to England and Scotland, +with four other servants, and allowed me to publish a little book to +make my desired little fortune, which is highly creditable. From the +first edition of 500 copies I fully sold 400, and another hundred copies +presented to friends in England and Ceylon. My intention in publishing +this second edition is that I have given too little recipes and +information in my first book for sixpence each copy. Though I thought it +is worth making it an enlarged and revised edition for same price this +time, I should like to give good many recipes for making a Curry, and +give the names of all Meat and Vegetable in English and Tamil. In each +heading of Curries two sorts of ingredients are given--one to be +procured in England, the other in Ceylon; and also each Curry will be +properly instructed. I have tasted the Curries made by Bengalee, etc., +on board of steamers and on shore. They use proper Curry Stuffs, etc., +but they flavour it too much; using plenty of ghee and fat mutton, +etc.,--these spoil the taste. Just the same with Bombay Curries, but in +Madras is the only place you could taste a proper Curry, and also in +Ceylon, as a good many cooks of Madras Presidency came to Ceylon several +years ago and spread out the art of general cooking in Ceylon. I believe +at first the cooking business was instructed by European cooks. At +present there is too many cooks in Ceylon; almost every butler, appoo, +second servant, kitchen mate, groom, etc., knows to cook a English +dinner!!! + +Now we shall go on with our Curry business. I recommend to try Curry +Powders from several grocers. The best Curry Powder is made of coriander +seed (which could be got from the chemist's), saffron, dry chillies, +cumin seed, few mustard seed, few pepper corns. If the Curry Powder +contains all the above, it is a good Curry Powder. Some Curry Powders +tastes of acid, flour, and other mixtures, which I believe is +unwholesome in every means. The Tamils use tamarind for the acid taste. +To every brown Curries the Singalese use Gorakka[1] (a sour fruit), +slightly dried, and lime juice to their yellow Curries. There is much +different taste between a Singalese Curry and a Tamil Curry--the taste +just differs the same as a Madras beef Curry, No. 4, and a potato Curry +(vegetable). The Curries should be treated same as a ordinary entree. If +one article you had too much, it will spoil the whole Curry. If the meat +over done, no taste in it. If you have all Curry stuffs, etc., at hand, +could make a Curry Sauce in ten minutes the longest, and can warm up any +meat for table in it (I mean the brown). The white Curry Sauce is not +suitable, unless for a vegetable or fish. + + [1] For Fish Curries, but not fresh fish--the fresh fish could be + given acid taste from lemon, or tamarind, or vinegar. + +I could give several other recipes to Curries, but the above said sixty +will be quite sufficient. If you carefully tried the above said Curries +will be found most economical. + +A Madras woman can beat any other Indian woman in Curry cooking. In +several gentry's houses in Madras, etc., they keep a woman to make +Curries and prepare vegetables for table--we call her "Thanney +Kareyitchi"--besides the cook and kitchen matey. + +The Madras Curry always the best, much different than a Bengal or Bombay +Curry, to my opinion. + + D. SANTIAGOE. + + International Exhibition, + Glasgow, 1888. + + + + +PREFACE OF MY FIRST EDITION. + +By A. Egmont Hake, Esq. + +[_TRUE COPY._] + + +The author of this little work has asked me to write him a Preface, and +I gladly do so, especially if it will help to find him buyers, as well +as readers, who will put into practice the admirable receipts he offers +to gourmets and others. For my own part I can speak with some +authority--indeed the best--as to the excellence of Santiagoe's Curries, +for I am among the fortunate few who have tasted them in England. + +I was particularly struck by a remark which Santiagoe made when I asked +him what he would like me to write in his little book. Some authors +might have replied "Speak up for my Curries!" others might have said, +"Say a good word for my book;" but he, in the fulness of gratitude, +said, "Praise my Masters." He then went on to speak of how Mr. Shand +and Mr. Haldane had brought him and his fellow-servants all the way from +Ceylon to England. + +It is only fair to point out that the English of this little book is not +"English as she is spoken," but represents the expression of Santiagoe +in its native costume--it is Tamil Anglicised by Santiagoe himself. As +Santiagoe says, "I like broken English, because ladies gentlemen like +that." The author is a native of Trichinopoly. His grandfather and uncle +were distinguished drummers in Indian infantry regiments--in other +words, they were masters of the tom-tom. He has lived all his life +in Ceylon,[2] and for the last seven years--that is, since he was +sixteen--has been in the service of English residents, of whom he +appears to have nothing but pleasant recollections. It would seem that +this will be the case in his experience of England, whither he has +come with others as waiter at the Ceylon Tea Rooms in the Liverpool +Exhibition--though he told me with much modesty that "people were very +kind, but he supposed the Ceylon servants were a novelty." + + [2] In 1879 have been to Maldive Island, or Minicoi Island, with my + master, to a wrecked steamer of "Bird" Line.--Ed. + + Please to read the article of _Saturday Review_ of 22nd October, 1887. + +It is, to say the least, highly creditable to Santiagoe that, with many +duties to perform, and these amid the distracting influences of our +Western civilization, he should have compiled this useful little guide +to the art of Curry cooking. The spirit of Brillat-Savarin and of Soyer +is stronger than the ephemeral attractions of an exhibition. Let us hope +Santiagoe's enterprise will be more lasting than these; that it will +achieve its aim in popularizing Ceylon Curries in this country; and that +his "Book on Curries" will pass through many editions, and bring him the +"little fortune" he deserves. + + (Signed) A. EGMONT HAKE, + +_Author of "General Gordon's Journal at Khartoum;" Editor of "The Story +of Chinese Gordon," etc., etc.; Commissioner of War Trophies, Royal +Jubilee Exhibition, Liverpool, 1887._ + + + + +COPY OF THE NOTE OF MY FIRST EDITION ON CURRIES. + + +I beg to bring the following Receipts to Curries, etc. I hope it will be +handy to ladies, housekeepers, cooks, etc. I only mention the easy way +of making it in England, for scarcity of fresh and pure Curry stuffs +none procurable. Still, it is very troublesome to grind the Curry stuffs +without a Curry stone, which is very common to a native Cooly of India. +No native houses without a Curry stone. The way the native girls, etc., +grind the Curry stuffs will be an astonishment to European ladies. The +best way to grind the Curry powder in England, by hard stone made mortar +or pounder, but the best and easy way is to buy from your respected +grocers, which, I should say, ought to be of two colours, one is brown +and the other is yellow, and the red is cayenne pepper (if required hot +Curries). + +With regard to above, if care should be taken and make the Curries with +any of the following meat:--Beef, mutton, chicken, fish, etc., etc., +and vegetables, you will find it an economical dish for an English meal +to have an Indian dish; if little care and attention is given to it, +will find it as a relish. The same time I must say, many parties visited +our Indian continent will know the taste of a Curry as well as my own +experience. I have been instructed by several head cooks of India and +Ceylon. My own people are cooks under several respected gentry of Ceylon +and India. Now, I must say, it is a national food to natives of India +and Ceylon as beef and bread to Europeans. With attention to this I +myself am a servant of gentlemen as approved cook, second boy, dressing +boy, house and general servant, and will answer to several other +capacity, as clerk, store-keeper, etc., etc. I only thought of +publishing this little work by request of several parties requiring me +to write some good Curries. + +So just the same time I may have the chance of printing it and make a +small fortune by the favour of customers, and by their favouring me to +sell these few hundred copies, will be highly thankful; but I regret to +say that I should have written large and more recipes, but my time is +very little to spare to attend to this work. + +With regards I hope the lovers of Curry will be satisfy with these +accompanying recipes, which, I should say can be made in England with +Curry stuffs and provisions procurable here. The fact is I myself have +tried several of these Curries in England during my short visit in +England, and found to be a good result, in fact, not in its original +taste, but only second to it in my opinion. If carefully prepared will +find it as a economical dish for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Only +little time and attention is required. I wish the reader will have the +pleasure of reading this book right through first. + +Another matter to point out, that in Madras cooks make Curries with or +without cocoanut, but in Ceylon no Curries without cocoanut, neither any +vegetable Curries without Maldive fish. For this point I have given +recipes to make with milk, cream, and gravy; and to every vegetable +Curry add a spoonful of chopped ham or corned beef; this for imitation +of Maldive fish.[3] Still it is much richer to vegetable Curries than +Maldive fish. + + [3] Dried shark, prepared in the Maldive Islands.--Ed. + + D. SANTIAGOE. + + Ceylon Court, R.J.E., + Liverpool, England, 1887. + + + + +THE CURRY COOK'S ASSISTANT. + + + + +No. 1.--HOME-MADE CURRY POWDER. + + +In England. + + 1 lb. Coriander Seed. + 1/2 oz. Saffron. + 1 Eggspoon Cumin Seed. + 1/2 doz. Pepper Corns. + Small bit of Cinnamon (1 in. square). + 8 Dried Chillies Capsicums. + 4 Tablespoons good Rice. + +In Ceylon. + + Coriander. + Saffron and Cumin Seed. + Pepper Corns. Cinnamon. + Dried Chillies--Rice. + Curry Leaves, and few other things of which cannot be procured in + England. + +N.B.--I only mention this home-made Curry Powder, if you can procure the +above said Curry Stuffs separately from the chemists or grocers. As I +heard from a gentleman in Liverpool, "Everything the world produces can +be bought in London"!!! + +_Mode._--Place a frying-pan (not an enamelled one) on fire; soon as it +gets hot put in the coriander; when nice and gold colour take it off +and put on a plate again. Set the frying-pan on fire and add the cumin +seed, pepper corns, dry chillies. Just give a shake, and take it off and +give it two or three more shakes and put on a plate, but don't put the +saffron in the frying-pan. Now wipe the frying-pan, and set on fire +again; when hot, put in the rice, and keep on shaking till each grain +gets goldish brown; do not let it burn. The rice on board of ships will +answer to this better than you buying from your grocer's; but in the +scarcity of above any rice will do. + +Now when all these are done we shall have to grind it to a smooth +powder. These cannot be done unless you have a stone-made pounder or +Curry stone and grinder. The latter I have not seen in England, still +there is the finest strong metal stones in England. The Curry stone and +grinder is bought for no money in up country of Ceylon, but in Colombo, +the chief city here, we pay 50 cents, to Rs. 2 50 cts. each. Curry stone +and grinder will last for generations. It is better to grind all Curry +stuffs separately and keep each in its own bottle, then you will be +careful of what you are about, and you will know how much you are using +of each stuff. + +For any meat Curry (per lb.) add one tablespoon coriander seed, a +saltspoon of saffron, a pinch of cumin seed, dash of pepper, small bit +of cinnamon, one-half tablespoon of rice powder; if preferred hot, add a +bit of cayenne. For white Curries, only one-half teaspoon of saffron to +be added. If at hand, just cut a young capsicum in quarters and add to +the Curry. You can add a green chillies to Meat Curries also. If the +above home made Curry Powder cannot be done, you shall have to buy three +sorts of Curry Powder. Coriander, rice, cumin seed, and pepper (one +mixture); cayenne and saffron each separately bottled. Other things can +be got from your respective grocers. If you buy a mixed Curry Powder or +Paste, it will taste everything too much, as following:--Heat! hot? +bitter, sour flour, spice, and too much of yellow colour of saffron, and +too much of a nice Curry smell. The fact is, I have tasted several Curry +Powders and Paste in England, and also in Scotland, but nothing equal to +separate Curry stuffs. If the Curry stuffs, etc., are imported from +India to Europe it will keep good for a long time, and will have a good +market, except the dry chillies, because there is plenty of cayenne +in England. Garlic ginger (green), used for any Meat Curry, it is very +healthy and helps to digest the Curry and rice sooner, as parties think +Curries are not easily digestible. The Curries must not be prepared too +rich, as richness takes away all flavour, and the meat will taste like +stewed Curry. The butter you add to fry the Curry stuffs will be quite +sufficient to richen the Curry without using fat meat. + + + + +No. 2.--BEEF CURRY (Plain). + + + 1 lb. Beef (Fresh or Cooked Meat will do). + 1 Tablespoon Curry Powder (not hot). + 1 Pint good Milk or strong (Beef) Gravy. + 1 Large Onion or few small ones. + 1 Young Capsicum and 1 Tablespoon Rice Powder. + Small piece of Cinnamon. + Pinch of Cumin Powder; Salt to taste. + +N.B.--In Ceylon we use Cocoanut Milk (the juice), Curry Leaves, and some +other Leaves for Spices. + +_Mode._--Cut the meat in half-inch squares; put into a clean stew-pan, +then slice the onions, and add the onions, Curry stuffs, chillies, +cinnamon, milk, cumin seed, etc., and salt. Mix all well together, and +set on fire for 15 to 20 minutes; do not let it burn. When serving add a +few drops of lemon juice. If required hot add a pinch of cayenne when +preparing. + + + + +No. 3.--BEEF CURRY (Ceylon). + +For a Pound of Good Beef (I mean lean). + + + 1 Tablespoon Coriander Powder and 1 of Rice Powder. + 1/2 Eggspoon Saffron Powder and Pinch of Cumin Powder. + 1 Pint good Milk or Gravy. + 1 Large Onion or few small ones. + 2 Young green Chillies (Capsicum). + A bit of Cinnamon (if you like spices); Salt to taste. + +N.B.--In Ceylon all the Curry stuffs are freshly grinded. Cocoanut +Juice, Curry Leaves, etc., are used. This is a very delicious Curry to +eat with rice boiled or bread toasted. + +_Mode._--Cut the meat in half-inch squares and put into a clean stew-pan +with the onions sliced, the chillies in quarters; then add all the Curry +Powder, etc. Mix well with a wooden spoon and add three parts of a pint +of milk or gravy; then salt to taste. Set on slow fire for 15 to 20 +minutes; soon as the meat is tender (but not overdone), then add the +other quarter of milk and a few drops of lemon juice. Just heat it again +and send to table in a vegetable dish with boiled rice separate. If you +add gravy to this Curry then you must put in two tablespoons of cream +before sending to table. + + + + +No. 4.--BEEF CURRY (Madras). + +For a Pound of Beef. + + + 2 Tablespoons Coriander Powder and 1 of Rice Powder. + 1 Saltspoon Saffron and a Pinch of Cumin Powder and Fenugreek.[4] + 1/2 Pint of Milk or good Gravy. + 1 Large or few small Onions. + A bit of Cinnamon, 2 Cloves (if you wish spices). + 1/2 Teaspoon Green Ginger chopped up fine. + A Small Garlic chopped up fine. + 1 Large Spoonful of Butter (fresh); Salt to taste. + + [4] If could be procured. + +N.B.--This Curry is made in Madras with or without Cocoanut, but little +Tamarind will flavour this Curry better than Lemon Juice. Vinegar, Curry +Leaves, etc., are used in Madras and Ceylon. This is a first-class Curry +if carefully prepared. + +_Mode._--Have the meat ready cut in half-inch squares; then slice the +onions; put a good stew-pan on the fire, add the butter; soon as the +butter gets hot put in the onions and Curry Powder, but not the ginger, +garlic, and spices. When the onions, Curry stuffs, etc., are nicely +browned, add the meat, garlic, ginger, spices, and give it a turn. Let +it stand for a few seconds, then add the milk or gravy, salt, etc.; set +on slow fire for about 20 minutes. When sending to table add a few drops +of lemon or good pickle vinegar, but tamarind is best. Add little +cayenne if preferred hot; a hot Curry is considered always nice and +healthy, the cayenne to be added when preparing. + + + + +No. 5.--BEEF CURRY (Kabob or Cavap Curry). + + + 1 1/2 lb. Lean Beef. + 2 Tablespoons Coriander Powder and 1 of Rice Powder. + 1 1/2 Saltspoon Saffron and a good Pinch of Cumin Powder. + 1 Good Pint of fresh Milk or Gravy. + 1 Large Onion or few small ones. + Ginger, about 2 inches long. + 2 Long Budded Garlics. + 1 Large Spoon Butter (fresh). + Spices; Salt to taste. + +N.B.--This Curry same as Madras Curry, No. 4, but the meat ought to be +of tender part. Must not overdo it, neither burn it. If tamarind used, +it is nicer. + +_Mode._--This is a first-class Curry if carefully prepared. Cut the meat +in half-inch squares; the ginger as round as a threepenny piece, and the +garlic the same size, but thicker. Now sharpen few thin sticks with +points to stick the meat (I mean as large as champagne bottle wire, +three to four inches long). Now begin the job; stick one of meat, +another of garlic, another of meat, and one of ginger (I mean a piece of +meat must be between garlic and ginger). Proceed as above till you +finish the meat, etc.; now place a stew-pan on fire; put in the butter +and the onions sliced. When nicely browned add the Curry stuffs and the +meat. Now let the whole fry gently in the butter for five minutes; now +pour the milk in and let it simmer gently for 20 minutes. When serving +add a spoonful of cream and a few drops of lemon, and send to table with +boiled rice (separate). + + + + +No. 6.--BEEF CURRY (Dry). + + +Same ingredients as for Madras Curry, No. 4, and prepare the same way, +but do not add any milk. Add about four tablespoons of good gravy when +preparing, but add two tablespoons of cream five minutes before serving. +(If I say dry, not very dry, but second to it; add few drops of lemon +when sending to table.) This Curry must be put on very slow fire, a hot +oven will do; if so, you must look every five minutes in case it burns. +This Curry can be eaten with rice, boiled potatoes, or toast if wished. +Some dry Curries are done in a frying-pan within ten minutes, only the +onions and Curry stuffs should be browned, and the meat mixed with it. + +N.B.--Must use a wooden spoon to all Curries when browning the Onion and +Curry Stuffs, etc.; better than a plated one. + + + + +No. 7.--BEEF CURRY (Ball). + + +Take a pound of beef free from skin, bone, etc., put into a sausage +machine, and get it mashed up; put on a plate, pepper it slightly. Now +take ingredients same as for No. 4, and chop fine the ginger, garlic, +and mix with the meat with little salt. Now make this meat into balls as +large as a marble, flour it, and fry in lard to a brown colour. Do not +let it break. Now keep this to a side, and place a good stew-pan on +fire, and put in the butter and the onions sliced, and the Curry Powder. +When all these nice and brown add the meat balls to it. Just mix slowly, +not to break the meat balls. Now add half-pint of good milk, or gravy, +and let it stand on a slow fire till wanted. When serving, add a +spoonful of cream, few drops of lemon, and salt to taste, and send to +table with boiled rice, etc. + +N.B.--This Curry must not overdo, neither must the meat be overdone when +frying; and when passing the meat through sausage machine, at the same +time you can add the spice, garlic, ginger, with the meat to be mashed +up. If preferred hot, add little cayenne pepper. + + + + +No. 8.--CHICKEN CURRY. + + + One good-sized Chicken (about a pound or more). + +Other ingredients same as for Madras Curry, No. 4. Now cut up the +chicken in half of each joint. Keep it to a side. Now fry the onions, +sliced, in a stew-pan, with a large spoon of butter. When the onions are +nice and brown, just fry the chicken in it less than half done. Take it +out and keep to a side. Now fry the Curry Powder till it is nice and +dark brown, then add the chicken, more onions, and other things into the +frying Curry Powder, etc., and add half-pint of good gravy, and set it +on a slow fire for 20 minutes. When serving, add two large spoons of +cream. If it is very dry, add little more gravy to it. A few drops of +lemon will flavour it, but I recommend to make the chicken into a +"moley," as No. 29. Much nicer to be eaten with rice or treated as an +ordinary entree, and the curried fowl (whole) nicer as a joint. + + + + +No. 9.--SNIPE CURRY. + + +Dress four snipes as for serving on toast; then cut in halves, pepper +and salt it, roll it in little (or sprinkle with) flour, and fry it in a +large spoon of butter or lard, quarter done or nearly half done. Keep it +to a side. Now take a good stew-pan, put on fire, melt a spoonful of +butter, and fry a large onion, sliced; put in + + 1 Tablespoon Coriander. + 1 Dessertspoon Rice Powder. + A pinch of Cumin Powder. + A pinch of Saffron and Spices. + +Let all these fry gently in the butter, then add half-pint of good +gravy, salt to taste, and let this stand on a hot oven, simmering gently +till required. Five minutes before serving, add the fried _snipes_, with +a few drops of lemon juice, and send to table. Do not let it be too +juicy, but the half-pint of gravy should be reduced to a quarter-pint. +Cayenne pepper should be added if preferred hot Curries. Snipe should +only be heated through, and not quite _over_done. This Curry nice with +rice, toast, etc. etc. Can almost be treated as an entree. + + + + +No. 10.--PIGEON CURRY. + + +Take four young pigeons and dress same as for salmi of pigeon, and treat +the same way as for Snipe Curry, No. 9. Any curry may be made of +different taste by reducing the ingredients or exceeding it, or by using +tamarind or pickle vinegar instead of lemon juice, or using milk instead +of gravy; and to some Curries add cream, and other Curries using +cocoanut juice (milk). + + + + +No. 11.--PORK CURRY. + + +One pound of fresh and lean pork, and the ingredients same as for Madras +Curry, No. 4; use only three parts of everything. A pinch of Cayenne +will flavour this Curry. Tamarind (an acid?) is nicer than lemon juice, +vinegar, etc. To use the tamarind, take a piece the size of a large +walnut, put into a cup and add about two tablespoons of cold water, and +squeeze it with a spoon or with your finger, strain through a clean +muslin and add to the Curry. Tamarind is always good for any sort of +brown Curry, and lemon juice for yellow or white Curries, and vinegar +for "moley," because it is an entree, and not much Curry stuffs are +used. + + + + +No. 12.--VEAL CURRY. + + +Everything same as Madras Curry, No. 4, but veal Curry, not nicer. If +you have veal chops, treat same as Curried mutton chops, No. 17. + + + + +No. 13.--MUTTON CURRY. + +For One Pound Mutton (without Fat). + + +Ingredients same as for Madras Curry, No. 4 but not the quantity. Only +three parts should be taken of each; the Curry stuffs need not be fried +as for Madras Curries, but cut the mutton in half-inch squares, put into +a stew-pan, and then add the Curry stuffs (powders?), spices, etc., and +add a tablespoon of cream when serving, as well as a few drops lemon +juice. Curries made from mutton are not so nice as if made from tender +part of beef, but in India and Ceylon several castes do not touch +beef--they call themselves high caste people, and bear numerous +names--they always eat mutton, fowl, vegetable, etc. The Brahman caste +never eat any meat of any sort; still they eat the pure juice of +beef--as milk, ghee,[5] butter, and another kind of medicine made out of +the flesh of the ox, called in Tamil "paroong kayam."[6] + + [5] Ghee is only melted butter, much used in India, most by Bengali. + + [6] Natives of India says it is a very useful medicine, but I myself + know too little history about it, but has a nasty smell. + + + + +No. 14.--PARTRIDGE CURRY. + + +I have nothing to say for this Curry, because you can imitate the pigeon +Curry; anyhow you must put in strong gravy, as partridge does not taste +nice if curried. If you have any partridge left from dinner, the next +day you may Curry it same as pigeon, but don't let it simmer too long +over the oven. Any kind of game (birds?) can be made same as the +pigeon. + + + + +No. 15.--TRIPE CURRY. + + +Take about two lbs. of good, thick part of the tripe, cut them in about +four inches square, or not at all, dip it in hot water, not boiling, but +nearly so. Then take out and scrape off all the black stuff, and clean +it as white as a white tablecloth, and boil it tender as you boil for +"Tripe Fricassee." When cool cut it in half-inch squares, slightly +pepper it. Place a stew-pan on fire, and put in a lump of butter. When +hot add the tripe, fry it to a brownish gold colour, then take out and +put in a plate till required. Now add the Curry stuffs, as No. 4, into +the stew-pan on the fire, and turn it over and over till nice and brown. +Now add the tripe you fried, and half-pint of good gravy, and let it +simmer gently on slow fire. When serving add a tablespoon of cream and +few drops of lemon. Some nice spices and a pinch of cayenne pepper +should be added when frying the Curry Powders. This is a very nice +Curry. By-the-by, the gravy you boil the tripe in should be boiled with +other bones, vegetables, etc., and add to the Curry instead of other +gravy. + + + + +No. 16.--LIVER CURRY, WITH BACON. + + +Take a pound of liver and a piece of fat of bacon, boil both in one pan +for quarter of an hour, then take it off the fire, let it cool, then cut +it in half-inch squares, add about 1/4 lb. bacon to a pound of liver, +and treat it same as Madras Curry, No. 4. The Liver Curry considered not +nicer. Parties in India and Ceylon (Europeans) do not care much for +Liver Curry but as an entree, "Liver and Bacon." A breakfast dish in +India and Ceylon. + + + + +No. 17.--CHOPS CURRIED. + + +This is a changeable way to have mutton chops done for breakfast or as +an entree for dinner. Take eight good chops, and flavour it the usual as +for serving itself (I mean place the chops on a flat dish, pepper and +salt it). Vinegar, a dash of Lucca oil, and few drops of sauce, and let +these soak for a few minutes, then place a frying-pan on fire, add a +lump of butter. When melted add the chops, and fry it in usual way of +mutton chops. When done take it off the frying-pan, keep it in a plate. +Now take a large onion and slice it, and fry it to a gold colour in the +frying-pan you fried the chops, then add all the Curry stuffs to it as +said in the Madras Curry, No. 4, except the cayenne, ginger, and garlic. +When all these are nicely fried add four spoons of good stock (brown), +and now add the chops into the frying-pan. Let it warm, then serve on a +hot dish, and send to table with potatoes, vegetables, etc., same as an +entree. Certainly can used with boiled rice too. + + + + +No. 18.--STEAKS CURRIED. + + +Same as chops curried, but to fry the steaks first, then proceed same as +for mutton chops. Mashed potatoes should join this dish, and boiled +spinach fried in butter with an onion will be a nice accompaniment, but +tough part of beef wouldn't do neither. You must not beat up the steaks +with a chopper or steak tenderer, because all the juice will be out; +scarcely any taste. When serving add a few drops of lemon juice, and +this Curry will taste nicer if gleeced before sending to table in the +following way:--Set a stew-pan on fire, when hot put a small bit of +butter and a small onion, finely sliced, and teaspoon of any gravy. Now +use a wooden spoon for frying the onions, and press them in the +sauce-pan. When nice and brown colour, and the fried onions have stuck +in the sauce-pan, pour the Curry you prepared and a spoon of cream; let +it simmer a few minutes. Send to table with rice. Don't forget to add +lemon juice or vinegar. + + + + +No. 19.--GAME CURRIES (Various). + + +The Game Curry I mean is thus:--elk; venisons; poultry, as turkey, +geese, duck, etc.; rabbit, etc. Can be curried same as No. 4, but it is +not nicer to make them into a yellow Curry, as for fish or vegetables. + + + + +No. 20.--RABBIT OR YOUNG HARE CURRY. + + +N.B.--I think the Rabbit made into a gleeced brown stew much nicer than +putting it in a jar, and prepare like a jugged hare, as it takes away +all the flavour, and the gravy tastes nice, and the meat almost like the +soup meat or plain boiled meat; but the Curried Rabbit is not a bad +recipe, if properly made, to use as an ordinary entree. + +Take a small rabbit; skin it; and cut up in small pieces as large as two +inch square; flour it, and fry in butter or lard, just underdone, and +brown it outside; keep it to a side. Now place a stew-pan on fire, and +add the remaining butter or lard you fried the rabbit with; when this +lard is nice and hot, slice one onion, and brown in the stew-pan. Now +add Curry powder same as Madras Curry, No. 4. When all these are nice +and brownish gold, add a pint of gravy or milk, and let it simmer gently +on slow fire; and quarter of an hour before sending to table, add the +fried rabbit to the Curry sauce, and let it simmer for 15 minutes. When +serving add few drops of lemon juice, and a spoon of cream. The above +Curry for boiled rice; if for an "entree," just cut the rabbit in +joints, and prepare same as the above Curry. When serving add a glass of +claret in place of lemon juice. + + + + +No. 21.--EGG CURRY (Whitish Yellow). + + +Hard boil six eggs, and put in cold water till wanted. Now place a +stew-pan on fire, and add half teaspoon of saffron powder (yellow); +half-pint of milk; one large onion, sliced; one tablespoon finely +chopped ham or corned beef; one green capsicum, cut in quarters; one +potato, mashed up (the potato left from last meal will do). Now simmer +this for quarter of an hour; don't let it burn. When serving, take eggs +out of the shell; cut in halves; place the eggs on a vegetable dish (the +cut part up). Now add a tablespoon of cream, and a few drops of lemon +juice; salt to taste, and pour over the eggs, and send to table with a +brown Curry to accompany the rice (boiled). Samball and fried herring +may be sent with these above Curries and rice. Poppadoms[7] and Bombay +ducks will be a good accompaniment if could be procured. + + [7] Poppadoms is a thin kind of flour and turtle eggs, and a kind of + grain, mixed and made as thin as paper. + + + + +No. 22.--EGG CURRY (Brown). + + +Boil the eggs same as No. 21, and put in cold water till wanted. Now +prepare Curry sauce (brown) as No. 26, pour over the eggs cut in halves, +as egg Curry (yellow). Egg Curries always called in Ceylon "a rest-house +Curry," because in several rest-houses in Ceylon usually not many +visitors pass that way, beside these rest-house keepers cannot get fresh +beef, etc. They always have plenty of eggs, fowls, native vegetables, +etc., but egg Curry only can be made quick. When a gentleman is going +from one planting district to another, a box cooly or a horse-keeper +(groom) runs in front to a certain place, by order of his master. When +he gets into the rest-house, the rest-house keeper knows that a +gentleman is coming. At once he will order to kill a chicken and grill +it in Scotch form? and boil two eggs; when this is doing the kitchen +mate[8] will squeeze half of a cocoanut, with little water mix some +saffron, salt green chillie, Maldive fish, etc., now he boils this for +five minutes. There is the breakfast ready! The bill of fare may be +thus:--Grilled chicken; boiled pumpkin or beans, sometimes potatoes; +boiled rice; egg Curry; samball; tea, coffee, or beer, etc. The dinner +might be similar to above with addition of soup. Sometimes the Curries +are made from native vegetables, as there is plenty of nice and +wholesome vegetables in Ceylon (I mean) besides the English vegetables. +The rest-houses are in place of refreshment rooms and eating-houses are +in England. + + [8] Kitchen mate is a boy kept under the cook to do all the washing, + etc., etc. + + + + +No. 23.--EGG CURRY (Omelet). + + +Make a savoury omelet with chopped ham, parsley, etc. When done, cut in +one-inch squares, and pour over the Curry sauce, brown or yellow, as +Nos. 21 and 22. + +N.B.--The omelet should only be made just before serving, as it will get +tough, etc. The Curry sauce may be made beforehand. + + + + +No. 24.--EGG CURRY (Poached). + + +Prepare Curry sauce, brown or yellow, as Nos. 26, 27. When serving just +let the Curry sauce simmer gently. Now break the eggs carefully and +put in the Curry sauce, each separately. Same as poaching eggs in a +frying-pan. The pan must be a wide stew-pan. When dishing you must +carefully take the yolks without breaking them and pour over the gravy, +and send to table with boiled rice; and thin slices of ham should be +handed round with this Curry and rice. Don't forget the samball for +every Curry, as well as fried red herring. + + + + +No. 25.--FRIED EGGS FOR CURRIES. + + +Beat up the eggs same as for savoury omelet, but omit the sweet herbs, +add chopped ham, salt, pepper, dash of flour, and pinch of cayenne, and +fry in butter or lard (same as omelets, or in small cakes). Send to +table with the Curry and rice in separate dish. The above dish (usually +the native way) not used in gentlemen's houses, but I recommend it to be +tried. + + + + +No. 26.--CURRY SAUCE (Brown, for Meat of any sort). + + +Place a stew-pan on fire, add a spoonful of butter; when melted add one +onion, sliced; when half brownish colour add a tablespoon and a half of +coriander powder, one of rice powder as No. 48, a saltspoon saffron, a +pinch of cumin-seed powder. Now turn this well with a wooden spoon. When +nicely fried, add the spices as said in the Curry No. 4, ginger and +garlic chopped up fine. Now add a pint of good gravy or fresh milk, and +let it simmer on slow fire till you find it reduced to a half-pint. Add +salt to taste, and a little cayenne if preferred hot. Now this Curry +Sauce is ready. This sauce can be heated up with any cold meats, as +beef, mutton, pork, poultry, game, etc., etc., because the meat cooked +beforehand cannot be cooked up in the above sauce, only warmed up. When +preparing, the meat should only be added to the gravy about five to ten +minutes before serving. The above recipe is only suitable for cold +meats, fried livers, chops, steaks, etc., etc. The above is a brown +Curry for parties, like the Curry stuffs; but for yellow Curry with less +Curry stuffs, etc., see the accompanying recipe. But in Ceylon or in +India always two Curries, etc., accompany the rice; especially in Ceylon +a brown and yellow Curry, etc., accompanies the rice to table. + + + + +No. 27.--YELLOW CURRY SAUCE (for Vegetables, Fish, etc.). + + +Slice one onion, one large spoonful of chopped-up ham (fresh, best) or +nice corned beef (cooked), one green capsicum cut in quarters, one small +teaspoon of saffron powder, pinch of cayenne pepper if preferred hot +Curry, half-pint of milk, salt to taste. Now put all these into a clean +stew-pan and set on fire for twenty minutes or more, simmer gently, and +let it reduce to half-pint. When serving add few drops of lemon juice +and a large spoon of cream. The above Curry Sauce is very nice for fish +and vegetables. If it is cooked up vegetable or fish, just add ten +minutes before serving. If it is fresh vegetable or fish, to be cooked +in the sauce from the beginning; see their separate headings. The above +Curry only second to a moley made of fish or fowl. + + + + +No. 28.--CURRIED FOWL (a Joint). + + + 1 good-sized Fowl and Curry Stuffs. + +Everything same as for Madras Curry, but an extra spoon of coriander +powder and spoonful of cocoanut scraped up fine (_i.e._, in England I +have seen and also used cocoanut scraped and preserved in tins by some +firm in London). This cocoanut can add to all kinds of brown Curries, as +it gives flavour to Curry; but it is a new idea, not suitable or used in +the East for a Curry. Dress the fowl as for boiling, and boil it for few +minutes (underdone). Keep this to a side, but don't waste the broth. Now +place a large stew-pan on fire (large enough to hold the fowl), slice +one large onion and fry in the butter. When nicely brown take out the +onions and put in the fowl, and fry it all sides nice and gold colour, +take the fowl out of the pan. Now add all the Curry stuffs, spices, +ginger, garlic, etc., etc., and the broth that the fowl has been boiled +in, and a half-pint of milk and bay leaves. Let all these simmer till +the Curry Sauce is reduced to a pint or little more. Now add the fowl +and turn it occasionally; do not let it burn. When serving, add a few +drops of lemon juice or vinegar (pickled), a spoonful of cream, salt to +taste, and cayenne if preferred. Send to table on a flat dish large +enough to carve the fowl, and leave enough gravy to go round the table; +I mean not juicy, neither dry. The above should be treated as a joint. +If any left can be warmed up in frying-pan, the fowl cut in pieces, and +send to table with fried potatoes, garnished with nice green cabbage +(boiled), or Brussels sprouts will do best. The above will do better on +a Sunday for dinner, as thus:-- + +Not a bad dinner for a small party. + + Beef, mullagatawny, and rice. + Curried fowls, and plenty of vegetables and potatoes. + Some kind of pudding. + + + + +No. 29.--CHICKEN MOLEY. + +For Two Young Chickens and some Gravy. + + +Cut up the chicken in joints, and boil all the bones, etc., for gravy. +Place a stew-pan on fire, add the chicken-bone gravy, half-pint milk, +one small spoon of butter, one eggspoon saffron powder, one tablespoon +of chopped ham, small pinch of cayenne, one bay leaf, spices (bit of +cinnamon, two cloves), salt to taste, one onion sliced. Let it boil (I +mean simmer) for five minutes, then add the chicken, set on slow fire +till the meat is tender. When serving, mix a dessertspoon of flour in +two tablespoons of cream in a tea cup, then add this into the moley and +stir well; let simmer for two or three minutes. When dishing, add a few +drops of lemon juice or pickled vinegar. The above dish should be +light-yellow colour, the gravy thick as cream. Mashed potatoes and fried +bacon may garnish this dish, with red carrots, cut fine and pretty, and +stuck in the mashed potatoes round the dish. The above entree should be +served up on a small flat dish for a dinner, lunch, supper, etc. + + + + +No. 30.--FISH MOLEY. + +For Two Pounds of Salmon. + + +N.B.--The Fish Moley is almost like a Curry (_see_ Fish Curry, Salmon, +No. 31). + +Cut the salmon nearly an inch thick, then cut it in two inches long, +one inch wide, or little round pieces. Now mix in a stew-pan the +following:--a pint of fish stock, white gravy, or milk, one small +spoon of butter, one eggspoon saffron powder, one dessertspoonful +finely-chopped ham, pinch of cayenne, one bay leaf, spices (bit of +cinnamon or cloves), one large onion sliced, salt to taste. Mix all the +above into the stew-pan, and set on fire. When it simmers, add the fish +and let it simmer gently until the fish is done. When serving, mash up a +boiled potato in two tablespoons of cream. Pour to the moley, and add +few drops of lemon juice, and send to table with boiled potatoes (mashed +up and baked in an oven), in shape as a pudding. Suppose if you have any +cold fish boiled the day before, just only mix up the sauce and let it +simmer till wanted, and add the fish five or ten minutes before sending +to table. Any fresh beef, cold beef, mutton, etc., can be made into +moley, but the fresh beef ought to be tender part--the under cut of a +sirloin will do nicely. It cannot be made from pork, because it will not +taste as nice as chicken or fish. + + + + +No. 31.--FISH CURRY (Salmon). + + +The fish Curry is made several different ways in Ceylon and India, as +brown or yellow Curry, but similar to fish moley, hard-boiled egg Curry, +No. 22, and the potato Curry, No. 35; but you must add a spoonful of +chopped ham or corned beef, and use lemon juice, not vinegar. The fish +Curry (brown) can be made same as Madras Curry, No. 4. But proceed to +make the Curry Sauce, No. 26, then add the fish. As soon as the fish is +tender, the Curry is ready. Don't add any butter to fish Curries. The +native cooks use the coriander, saffron, chillies, etc., without +roasting them in the frying-pan.--See "Home-made Curry Powder," No. 1, +but grinding it without roasting. + + + + +No. 32.--FISH CURRY (Various). + + + Salmon. + Haddocks. + Soles. + Whiting. + Codfish. + Whitebait. + Fresh Herrings. + Lobsters. + Crabs. + Oysters. + Prawns. + Shrimps, etc. + +The above Fish Curries can be made same as Salmon Curry, No. 31, egg +Curry (yellow), fish moley, Madras Curry, No. 4, but great care must be +taken not to be burned. The soles and whiting are not nice when curried, +and the oysters should be used without the liquor. Prawns and shrimps +are celebrated Curries if they are freshly caught and properly prepared. +Tamarind used for Fish Curries (brown) are very nice--better than lime +(lemon) juice or vinegar. + + + + +No. 33.--TINNED SARDINES (Curried). + +For a Small Tin of Sardines of One Dozen. + + +Take the sardines, and take off the black part; just finely scrape; with +a spoon place on a tin or plate, and make it warm in an oven. Now make a +Curry sauce (brown), same as No. 26, but less milk or gravy. The Curry +sauce must not be more than a small tea cup, nice and thick, if not +thicker,--just mash up a boiled potato, and add to the sauce. Just +before serving, take each sardine carefully and place in the Curry sauce +you made; do not stir it; set on slow fire for five minutes. When +serving take each carefully without breaking, arrange them nicely on a +Curry or vegetable dish; pour over the gravy, and send to table with +boiled rice or hot toast. Any tinned fish can be made same as the above, +except Yarmouth bloaters, smoked fish, salt fish, mackerel, etc., etc. +Tinned salmon makes a nice Curry. Afraid it will mash up and be like a +gruel instead of lumps. The above Curry sauce will answer to several +boiled fish--boiled the day before. + + + + +No. 34.--VEGETABLE CURRIES (Various). + + +With reference to above, the potato, knol khol, turnips, carrots, +parsnips, vegetable marrow, cucumber, beans, etc., can be made same way +as potato Curry, No. 35; but cabbage, spinach, turnip tops (young +shoots), Brussels sprouts, can be made same way as potato Curry, with +same ingredients, but the cabbage, Brussels sprouts, etc., take little +more time to tenderly boil; therefore extra gravy, milk, butter, and +extra spoon of ham or corned beef. Onions should be added for greens. +The more good gravy you add the better the Curry. As far as I have seen, +there is not many English vegetables can be Curried, but in India and +Ceylon there is numberless vegetables, greens, grasses, etc., can be +Curried. + + + + +No. 35.--POTATO CURRY. + +For One Pound of Good Potatoes (peeled). + + +Cut them in half-inch squares; put them into a clean stew-pan with an +eggspoon of saffron; one large onion, sliced; one large spoon of chopped +ham or corned beef (salt to taste); three parts of a pint of milk. Mix +well together; put in a bay leaf; set on fire, and let it simmer till +the potatoes are tender. If the three-quarters pint of milk is not +sufficient to tender the potatoes, add some good gravy (stock), but not +brown stock. When serving, add a quarter pint of milk and a dessertspoon +or more of cream, and let it simmer. When simmering add a few drops of +lemon juice, and send to table with boiled rice. But a Brown Curry must +accompany the above Curry. + + + + +No. 36.--CABBAGE CURRY. + + +Take half of a small cabbage, and cut it with a sharp knife as big as +you cutting a lettuce for a salad; wash it thoroughly clean; put into a +stew-pan with a pint of gravy, and boil it till half done. Now take it +off the fire; add an eggspoonful of saffron powder; two large spoons of +chopped ham, etc.; a pinch of cayenne (if required hot); one large +onion, sliced; salt to taste. Mix well; set on fire. More gravy or milk +should be added, till the cabbage is soft as usual form. + + + + +No. 37.--BEAN CURRY. + +For a Pound of French Beans. + + +Cut up the beans one inch long and prepare same as the cabbage Curry. +The same ingredients will do and must accompany a meat Curry to table. +These Curries may only be gleeced, if you please, or can serve plain, +but the gleece gives a nice smell and good taste. Any Curry can be +gleeced. If you wish to make Curry of broad beans, must take off the +thicker skin and weigh a pound; but broad beans are not a useful bean +for Curry, but only better as a vegetable by cooking it in a jar with +butter and mint.--See Vegetables for Table, as No. 53. + + + + +No. 38.--ONION CURRY. + + +Same as potato Curry, No. 35. The large onions should be cut in +quarters, and the small onions put in whole; but in India and Ceylon we +have onions (I mean the button onions with red skin) which makes a +delicious Curry. + + + + +No. 39.--DEVILLED CABIN BISCUITS. + + + 1 Onion sliced. + 1 Dessertspoon Butter. + 2 Tablespoons of good Beef Gravy. + 1 Eggspoon or less of Cayenne. + Pinch of Pepper; Salt to taste. + 1 Small Potato mashed up. + 1 Dessertspoon of Worcester Sauce (Lea & Perrins). + +_Mode._--Slice the onions and fry in a stew-pan with the butter; when +the onions turn to a gold colour add all other ingredients. During you +preparing the above, soak six cabin biscuits in boiling water for two +minutes, then take it out of the water and dish the biscuits, and pour +over the devil gravy you prepared. Cover the biscuits with gravy and +serve hot. The above dish is good for lunch, etc. + + + + +No. 40.--DEVILLED MEAT (Various). + + +Same ingredients as for biscuits, No. 39, but meat must be cut two +inches long and added to the stew-pan soon as the onions are fried. +Give it stirring for some while by turning the pieces of meat in it. +By-the-bye, the fresh meat should be fried a little brown, because fresh +meat devilled always tough unless the meat is undercut. Extra spoons of +gravy should be added to devilled meats. Cuttings from cold joints are +nice devilled; but fresh beef ought to be of tender part (as I said +before, undercut). Fowl, duck, mutton, turkey, geese can be done in same +way (I mean from joints roasted beforehand); but you must reduce or +exceed the ingredients for the amount of weight. The quantities given +for devilled biscuits are sufficient for 1 lb., or less of meat. Be +careful not to burn.--See Devilled Biscuits. + + + + +No. 41.--MOLLAGOO TANNEY, AND NOT MULLIGATAWNY.[9] + + [9] Why English people always spell this word wrong? Everybody knows + this--Mollagoo, _pepper_; tanney, _water_. In proper Tamil the + mollagoo tanney is pronounced "Mollagoo Neer" and "Mollagoo Tannir." + + + 2 Good Quarts of Gravy of Mutton Beef or Chicken Soup. + 2 Large Spoons of Coriander Powder. + 1 Tablespoon of Rice Powder as No. 48, and Pinch of Pepper. + 1 Pint of good Milk. + 2 Large Onions, sliced. + 1 Piece of Ginger. + 1 Garlic, small one. + 1/2 Teaspoon of Cumin Powder. + Pinch of Saffron. + 1 Dessertspoon Butter. + +_Mode._--The Curry stuffs you use for mollagoo tanney should be very +fine. Take a large stew-pan and mix all the above together, only one +onion (sliced), garlic and ginger chopped up fine. Let these simmer for +ten minutes, now strain it through a muslin or gravy strainer. Now fry +the other onion in the dessertspoon of butter in another stew-pan. When +the onions are browned add the mollagoo tanney with a small bay leaf, +and skim off the grease, and send to table in a soup tureen as a soup; +but this should be used instead of soup, or the first dish for a lunch +or breakfast or dinner, but I recommend for dinner in Europe. Cut lemon +should be handed round with the above and plain boiled rice. Fried red +herring wouldn't be a bad accompaniment. In India the mullagatawny is +used generally once a week--say on a Sunday or Wednesday. The natives +usually have this mullagatawny on Fridays after their caste. Some +mullagatawny are made of plain Curry stuffs, tamarind, etc., not worth +for Europeans. Some parties who visited India like native mullagatawny +better than the above, according to taste, but I recommend the above for +Europeans. The cayenne pepper should be added if required hot. + + + + +No. 42.--PILLAU RICE (a Mohammedan Dish), au Joint for Dinner. + + +Cook rice as No. 50. Keep it aside till wanted, then place a frying-pan +on fire. Have two large onions (sliced) and two tablespoons of butter, +and add half-teaspoon of saffron. When all the above is nicely brown add +the rice, and keep on turning for few minutes, sprinkle a little salt. +Now this is ready after dishing the above. Fry a large onion (sliced), +and raisins (fried), sliced almonds. Sprinkle the above three over the +pillau rice. The pillau rice should accompany roast fowl or mutton chops +by dishing the meat on a flat dish, and cover it with pillau rice, and +sprinkle over with fried onions, etc. Parsley mint can be fried and +added. If it is to be eaten with Curry, use Madras Curry, kabob, or +salmon, and omit the meat with pillau. + + + + +No. 43.--LEMON (HOT) SAUCE. + + + Juice of a Large Lemon. + 1 Dessertspoon Cayenne. + 1 Dessertspoon Pounded White Sugar; some Salt. + +Mix all together in a cup and use. If required to be kept, boil the +whole in an enamel-plated saucepan; when cold bottle it. This sauce is +very nice with cold meat or with made dishes. + + + + +No. 44.--APPLE CHUTNEY. + +How to make in England. + + + 1/2 lb. Sour Apples, peeled and cored. + 1/4 lb. Currants. + 1 oz. Chillies (or 1/2 oz. Cayenne). + 1 Tablespoon Brown Sugar. + 4 oz. Salt, or to taste. + 1 Eggspoon Pepper, finely ground. + 1 oz. Garlic, chopped up fine. + 1/4 oz. Green Ginger, chopped up fine. + 1/4 lb. Raisins. + +_Mode._--Have the currants and raisins clean, and pound them in grinder +or pounder of stone. Now grind the apples and all other ingredients to a +smooth paste (I mean, not too thin or in lumps). Now mix these well +together with half bottle of best vinegar, and bottle it in tart fruit +bottles, corked well. If you require sweeter have more sugar, and if it +is too watery put in a little less of vinegar. The above plan of chutney +is suitable for cold meats, Curries, etc. In Ceylon, Mango Chutney is +made in similar way, but they use tamarind, and when grinding use +vinegar to soften the ingredients when grinding. + + + + +No. 44a.--MINT CHUTNEY. + + + 1/2 lb. Mint. + 1 oz. Cayenne. + 1/4 lb. Salt. + 1/4 lb. Raisins. + 2 oz. Ginger. + 1/4 lb. Brown Sugar. + 1 oz. Garlic. + 1/2 Bottle Vinegar to grind the above. + 1/2 Bottle Vinegar, hot, to pour over. + +_Mode._--Grind or pound the above by adding the cold vinegar by degrees +to soften. When nice and smooth, put into a bowl and pour over the hot +vinegar. When cool, bottle it in tart fruit bottles, and cork well. + +N.B.--I can give dozens of recipes for chutney. I am afraid it is no use +telling in this book, because the ingredients cannot be procured fresh, +as mangoes, pineapples, lavi-lavi, blinga, tamarind, ripe chillies, +chutnies, etc., etc. The above is a recipe I tried in Newera Eliya, +Ceylon, where fresh mint can be had in any quantity of first class, same +as in England and Scotland. + + + + +No. 45.--QUICKLY-MADE SAMBALL. + +How to make it in England. + + +Chop up fine one large onion, a teaspoon of cayenne, another of crushed +sugar, one tablespoon finely-chopped ham (cooked), one teaspoon salt, +one tablespoon vinegar or lemon juice. + +_Mode._--Mix all the above in a small bowl with a wooden spoon or with +your clean finger. Now add the vinegar. Again mix well, and send to +table with cold pork, Curries, etc. A little more sugar may be added if +preferred sweet. There are great many samballs can be made, but all must +pass the Curry stone or stone-made pounder. The samballs made of dry +chillies, green chillies, cocoanut juice, Maldive fish, onions, cooked +fishes, meats, mint, etc., etc. The samballs are a great improvement to +Curries. In Ceylon every cook would send a samball to table with the +Curry and rice; also native meals are never without a samball--especially +_samball_, or some ball. It is only a new-made chutney or pickle, but +_fresh_ made, called _sampball_. + + + + +No. 46.--HOW TO FRY RED HERRINGS FOR CURRIES. + + +Take two stout common red herrings, cut them about one and a-half inch +long (cross ways); put in a plate and add one tablespoon of vinegar and +a little dash of cayenne; roll the herrings well, and fry them in butter +or lard, and send to table dry, free from grease. To be eaten with rice +and Curry instead of Bombay ducks. + +The above is a new idea, which I came to know during my first visit to +England, Royal Jubilee Exhibition, 1887, in Liverpool. + + + + +No. 47.--TOAST CURRY. + + +Prepare some Curry gravy, same as Madras Curry, No. 4. Now toast two +slices of bread; cut thin, and in diamond shape. After toasted, dish the +toast on a vegetable dish, and pour over the gravy you prepared, and +send to table hot, with Curry and rice, samball, etc. + + + + +No. 48.--HOW TO MAKE RICE POWDER. + + +Take a pound of good rice, and pick out all the black and other things +from it. And now place a frying-pan on fire; soon as it gets hot put in +the rice, and keep on turning till you find it nice and brown colour; +then put on a plate to get cool; then pound this in a stone-made mortar +or pounder (very fine), and bottle it, well corked. Use a tablespoon to +brown Curries. + + + + +No. 49.--MUSHROOMS CURRIED AND SERVED ON TOAST. + + +Pick out half-pound of fresh and good mushrooms; sprinkle with little +pepper and salt. Now prepare Curry sauce as for Snipe Curry. Fry the +mushrooms in a dessertspoon of butter, and add to the Curry sauce; let +it simmer gently for five minutes, then serve on hot toast. A nice dish +for lunch or supper. When eating, a dash of cayenne and mushroom ketchup +may be a nice taste. Try the above. + + + + +No. 50.--RICE, HOW TO BOIL FOR CURRIES. + + +Take an enamelled saucepan to hold four quarts, and fill it +three-quarters full of fresh water, and let it boil. During the time the +water is boiling, soak two pounds of rice (white) for three minutes in +cold water; then strain off the water, and put the rice in the pan that +is boiling, and stir for two minutes, and cover it up. When boiling put +in a spoon, and take out some rice and feel it with your finger. If it +is done drain off all the water, and place the pan near a hot oven till +wanted. + +Must not let it be overdone. If it is overdone and nearly soft, just +drain the boiling rice water, and add a few cups of very cold water. +Stir it, and drain again, and set by the fire or on hot oven for a few +minutes, and you will find each grain separate. Boiled rice ought to +have each grain separate. + +N.B.--The rice I have seen in England they call it "Patcha Areysi," used +for rice cakes, etc., in India and Ceylon, etc. I mean the rice taken +out the shell without boiling the paddy. The rice taken out the shell, +called "Sothareysigal," as follows, of Rangoon, Chittagong, Bengal, +etc., etc.:-- + + Samba. + Muthoo Samba. + Mollagoo Samba. + Oosi Samba. + Collundha. + Bangalam. + Cara. + Vallareysee. + Masareysi. + Waddakathy Samba. + +And several other native names too numerous to mention. The above all +good for eating after boiled. + + + + +No. 51.--A SALAD FOR DINNER, Etc., for Hot Weather. + + + Cucumber. + Beet Root, boiled. + Hard-Boiled Eggs. + Ripe Tomatoes. + Water-Cress. + 1 Large Onion, thin sliced. + Cold Fowl, Beef, or Mutton. + +_Mode._--Cut the meat in thin slices, and put in a flat dish, then slice +the cucumber, beet root, eggs, tomato, and onion, and dress the dish +with the above, neatly arranging by putting one piece cucumber, another +of beet root, another of eggs, and another of tomato, and put the sliced +onions in the middle, and the water-cress round the dish as a +decoration. Now prepare this + + Sauce. + + Yolks of 2 Hard Boiled Eggs. + 1 Potato, finely mashed up. + 1 Dessertspoon of Made Mustard. + 1 Teaspoonful of crushed Sugar, another of Butter. + 2 Dessertspoons of Condensed Milk (omit the Sugar); or, + 1 Large spoon of Cream instead of Condensed Milk. + 1/2 Teaspoon of Salt, Dash of Cayenne and Pepper. + 3 Tablespoons Vinegar, or more. + +Take a small bowl and mash up the potato, yolks of eggs, mustard, +sugar, salt, butter. When nice and smooth add the milk or cream. After +mixed add the vinegar, and mix well and keep separate. When sending to +table just pour the sauce all over the salad with a spoon. Let it stand +for two minutes and serve. The above can be made with or without meat, +and also with lettuce if at hand. Several other salads could be made as +learned cooks have written in the cooks' books; but the above I tried +myself in one of my former masters' bungalows in Ceylon and in England. + + + + +No. 52.--SUNDAL OR POOGATHU (a Native Dish). + + +Finely cut one cabbage (a small one)--I mean as fine as the tobacco used +for cigarettes, put a stew-pan on fire, add a small spoonful of butter, +one onion (sliced). When the onions are nice and brown put in the +cabbage, give it a turn, and add a teacup of good gravy, and cover it +up, and set on gentle fire for few minutes; then add a spoonful of +chopped ham, dash of cayenne and pepper, a pinch of saffron powder, and +set over an oven till wanted. Do not let it burn; keep on turning. When +nice and dry send to table with Curry, and rice, and samball. The above +can be made from any greens; but this is not in use in European houses +in Ceylon, but very nice dish for Curries. + + + + +No. 53.--VEGETABLES BOILED FOR TABLE. + + +French beans, broad beans, peas, Brussels sprouts, etc., will be nice +when boiled in preserve jar with a lump of butter, salt, and dash of +pepper (and mint to peas), but Brussels sprouts requiring lots of +cooking may add some water to it. Spinach and sorrel can be cooked in a +jar with a small onion (sliced), and little more salt to sorrel. Any +vegetables might be done as above. I think it is an economical way of +cooking vegetables; but I am afraid it wouldn't do for large +establishments as hotels, etc., but for family houses it is a better +way. The jar to be placed in a large pan, half full of water, and see it +occasionally to prevent drying up. + + + + +No. 54.--ECONOMICAL CURRY PASTE. + + + 1 lb. Coriander Seed. + 1/4 lb. Dry Chillies. + 1/2 lb. Mustard Seed. + 2 oz. Garlic. + 2 oz. ---- + 1/2 lb. Dried Peas. + 1/2 pint Vinegar. + 1/4 lb. Saffron. + 1/4 lb. Pepper. + 2 oz. Dry Ginger. + 1/2 lb. Salt. + 1/2 lb. Brown Sugar. + 2 oz. Cumin Seed. + 1/2 pint Lucca Oil. + +N.B.--Few Bay Leaves in Ceylon and India. Using Carugapilbay or _Curry +Leaves_, black. + +_Mode._--Grind all the above with the vinegar using to moisten the +ingredients, using a Curry stone or stone-made pounder. When all the +above nice and thin as a paste, put in a jar and pour over the Lucca +oil, and cover it up. Use a large spoon for Madras Curries. The above +good for mushroom, snipe, partridge, and other brown Curries of superior +quality. + + + + +No. 55.--CURRY POWDER (a Recipe). + + + 2 lbs. Coriander Seed. + 1/2 oz. Chillies. + 4 oz. Pepper. + 7 oz. Cumin Seed. + 7 oz. Mustard Seed. + 1 oz. Bay Leaves. + 8 oz. Carum Seed. + 2 oz. Saffron. + +Make all the above into powder, and calculate the weight--ought to +equal. Use one and a-half tablespoonful for brown Curries only. + + + + +No. 56.--CURRY POWDER (a Recipe). + + + 1 lb. Coriander Seed. + 1/4 lb. Cumin Seed. + 6 oz. Saffron. + 10 oz. Dry Chillies. + 2 1/2 oz. Vantheyam (Tamil name) Fenugreek. + 4 oz. Ginger. + 1 Handful chopped-up Bay Leaves. + +Pound smooth all these, and bottle it in, well corked, and use as above. +The above three recipes are from Mr. Symon Nayajam, cook, of Madras and +Colombo, Ceylon. + + + + +No. 57.--CURRY POWDER (a most excellent). + + + 2 Large Old Fowls. + 1 lb. Coriander. + 1/8 lb. Chillies or Cayenne. + 6 oz. Saffron. + 2 Large Spoons Cumin Seed. + 1 oz. Dry Ginger. + 2 oz. Garlic. + 4 Large Spoons of Rice Powder, as No. 48; or 4 Large Spoons of Dried + Peas (roasted and ground). + 1/2 Handful Dried Bay Leaves. + 1 Tablespoon Peppercorns. + 2 doz. Cloves. + 1/4 lb. Button Onions, + 1/4 lb. Butter or Ghee. + +_Mode._--Clean the fowls and cut them in small pieces, the giblets and +all. Put into a large saucepan, and add a few quarts of water, and boil +it very tender--I mean simmer gently for two days. The bones, meat, +etc., should be mashed up. Now take out all the bones, and keep to a +side. Take a large saucepan, put in the butter and sliced onions, and +fry it to a brown colour. Now add all the Curry Powders, garlic chopped +up, bay leaves, dry ginger, cloves, pepper, all in powders, and fry +gently for a few minutes. Now add the gravy of boiled fowls, with the +meat, etc., and let it simmer so a few minutes. When all these are +reduced to three quarts, just dish it on a flat dish and let it cool for +a day, or till it gets hard as a brick. Now pound this in a stone-made +mortar to a smooth powder, and bottle it, well corked, and use for Brown +Curries, a dessertspoon to a pound, with sliced onions, milk or gravy, +and lemon juice. + +N.B.--The above recipe is a most excellent of all the Curry Powders and +Pastes, only second to none. In India we can prepare the above with +tamarind included, for acid taste, and few other ingredients which can +get fresh in Ceylon and India, but I think not procurable in England. + + + + +No. 58.--TOMATO CURRY. + + +For a pound of young or green tomato, ingredients same as for Potato +Curry, No. 35, or for Brown Curry same as No. 4, Madras Curry. Treat it +same as the Cabbage Curry. But I recommend that tomatoes should be made +Brown Curry--tastes nice. Tomato curried is better than all the +vegetables if it is properly made. Ripe tomato not nice when curried, +only for salads. + + + + +No. 59.--CURRIES UNDER VARIOUS NAMES. + + +As to my opinion, Curries can be made from anything, if you could +procure the proper Curry Powders, etc. Almost every Curry is made one or +two ways, by only reducing, exceeding, or mixing the various Curry +stuffs. Some Curries are hot, some dry, some juicy, some sour, and so +on. Then the cooks celebrate the names in the menu as Delhi Curry, Agra +Curry, Madras Curry, Curry à la Punjab, Bengal Curry, Mysore Curry, and +several other names too numerous to mention in this little work. But I +myself and several parties who have visited India will be glad to +recommend Madras Curries as best; and Ceylon Singhalese Curry (yellow) +is good, made of cocoanut juice, Maldive fish, lemon, Curry leaves, +saffron, etc. Several cooks add too much ghee or butter, lard, etc., but +it only spoils the taste of the Curry; and some cooks put too much +spice, and give it too much flavouring. Reasonable ingredients couldn't +spoil a Curry. A small girl of 10 years of age will make a Curry, as +Curries are easily made in India and Ceylon. + + + + +No. 60.--CHUTNEY CHICKEN. + + +Same as country capon, or country captian, but mix few tablespoons of +mango chutney, or any other chutneys, but not hot. + + + + +No. 61.--WHEN TO USE CURRIES. + + +_First Course._ + + Soup. + Fish. + Entrees. + Joints. + +_Second Course._ + + Curry and Rice. + Sweets. + Cheese. + Dessert. + Coffee. + + + + +TAMIL AND ENGLISH NAMES FOR CURRY STUFFS, etc., as used in Ceylon. + + +I only give a few of Tamil languages as generally in use, but not high +words. Many parties visited our Indian continent will understand the +following and names of native vegetables:-- + + English. Tamil. + + Rice. Areysi. + Curry. Currie. + Coriander. Cotha Mulle. + Saffron. Münjal. + Cumin Seed. Seeragam. + Ginger, Dry. Sukkoo. + Ginger, Green. Engi. + Salt. Oopoo. + Dry Chillie. Cotchi Kaie. + Green Chillie. Patcha Kotchi Kaie. + Cocoanut. Thankaie or Thayangaie. + Maldive Fish. Massi. + Milk. Paal. + Bread. Rotti. + Sugar. Sèèney. + Water. Thannir. + Cocoanut Oil. Thankaie Annay. + Ghee. Naie. + Butter. Vannai. + Onions. Vengayam. + Curry Leaves. Caruga Pillay. + Lemon or Limes. Thascekaie. + Tamarind. Puley. + Cinnamon. Carova Patta. + Cloves. Ikramba. + Dry Fish. Caroowadoo. + Fish. Meen. + Beef. Erratchi. + Mutton. Art Erratchi. + Pork. Pandi Erratchi. + Fowl. Coley. + Chicken. Coley Kunju. + + +Articles of Food--Posana Patharitlaugal. + + Meat. Ereitchi. + Fresh Meat. Patcha Eratchi. + Ghie Fish. Ney Meen. + Soles. Nakoo Meen. + Shrimps. Cooni, Erraal. + Prawn. Erraal. + Lobster. Singeerral. + Crab. Nandoo. + Turkey. Van Coley. + Goose. Peria Vathu, or Wathu. + Teal. Seeragi. + Snipe. Collan or Collaan. + + + Cereals. Thaniya Vagayi. + + Boiled Rice. Soru. + Pearl Barley. Barli Arisi. + Sago. Sav-vari-si. + Kurrakan Raggy. Koorakan _Kapay_. + Maize. Sollam, Mâkka, Solam. + Pulses. Payaroo Vagaie. + Grain. Kadalay, Thaniam. + Flour. Mahà, Vagai. + Wheat Flour. Gothuma Mâ. + Corn Flour. Sollam Mâ. + Tapioca. Eli lay Mâ. + Arrowroot. Coova Mâ. + Cabbage. Govis Keeray. + Cucumber. _Wellari._ + Pumpkin. Poosani Kai. + Bringall. Kathari Kay. + Wenda Kay. Wenda Kai. + Drumstick. Mooroonga Kai. + Curry Stuffs. Masalai. + Pepper. Melagu. + Mustard. Kadoogoo. + Garlic. Vella Vengâyam. + Fenugreek. Vanthayam. + Dark Margosa Leaves. Caroova Pillay. + Aniseed. Sôômboo. + Cardamom. Alâmor elam. + _Nutmeg._ Sathi Kai. + Mace. Sathi Pathari. + Lime. Ellumitchan _Palam_. + Fruit. Pala, Vagai. + Mango. Mâm _Palam_. + Plantain. _Vala_ Palam. + Custard Apple. Seitha _Palam_. + Jack Fruit. Paala, Palam. + Bread Fruit. Lera Palla Kai. + Bullock's Heel. Rama Seitha Palam. + Pine Apple. Annâsi Palam. + Orange. Pani Thottam, Palam. + Guava. Coiya Palam. + +I can give several other names in Tamil and English, but my little book +is too light to carry the burden. + + D. SANTIAGOE. + + + + + PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, + LONDON AND BECCLES. + + + + + [ Transcriber's Note: + + The following is a list of corrections made to the original. The first + line is the original line, the second the corrected one. + + pepper (if required, hot curries). He is a little plaintive about + pepper (if required, hot curries)." He is a little plaintive about + + its England. Garlic ginger (green), used for any Meat Curry, it is very + in England. Garlic ginger (green), used for any Meat Curry, it is very + + No. 13. MUTTON CURRY. + No. 13.--MUTTON CURRY. + + o. 22.--EGG CURRY (Brown). + No. 22.--EGG CURRY (Brown). + + let the Curry sauce simmer gently Now break the eggs carefully and + let the Curry sauce simmer gently. Now break the eggs carefully and + + No. 38. ONION CURRY. + No. 38.--ONION CURRY. + + ] + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's The Curry Cook's Assistant, by Daniel Santiagoe + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CURRY COOK'S ASSISTANT *** + +***** This file should be named 34107-8.txt or 34107-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/4/1/0/34107/ + +Produced by Jana Srna and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This book was +produced from scanned images of public domain material +from the Google Print project.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Curry Cook's Assistant + or, Curries, How to Make Them in England in Their Original Style + +Author: Daniel Santiagoe + +Release Date: October 20, 2010 [EBook #34107] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CURRY COOK'S ASSISTANT *** + + + + +Produced by Jana Srna and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This book was +produced from scanned images of public domain material +from the Google Print project.) + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<div id="tnote"> +<p class="center"><b>Transcriber's Note:</b></p> +<p>Every effort has been made to replicate this text as faithfully as +possible, including inconsistencies in spelling and hyphenation; +changes (corrections of spelling and punctuation) made to the +original text are marked <ins title="transcriber's note">like this</ins>. +The original text appears when hovering the cursor over the marked text.</p> +</div> + +<div id="text-block"> + +<p class="center" style="font-size: x-large;">THE +CURRY COOK'S ASSISTANT</p> + + + +<div class="page-break" style="max-width: 30em; margin: 8em auto;"> +<h1 style="font-size: large; margin-bottom: 1.5em;">NOTE ABOUT “CURRIES” IN<br/> +“SATURDAY REVIEW,” OCTOBER 22, 1887.</h1> + +<hr/> + +<p class="no-indent" style="font-size: smaller; line-height: 1.3em;"><span class="smcap">Everybody</span> who likes Curry, and who can get it (the pamphlet, not the +Curry), should invest in a little pamphlet by “<span class="smcap">Daniel Santiagoe</span>, +son of Francis Daniel, butler and fiddler, of Colombo, Ceylon, and the +Ceylon Court, Royal Jubilee Exhibition, Liverpool.” It is written in +delightful pigeon-English (or whatever other bird may be more appropriate +to Ceylon's isle), is quite unpretentious, avows the author's very +legitimate, and, indeed, laudable desire to “make a small fortune” by +its sale, and contains admirable receipts. Mr. Santiagoe is much less +cynical than the apocryphal Mrs. Glasse. He says, after recommending +the more excellent way of the Curry Stone, “The best and easy +way is to buy from your respected grocers, which, I should say, ought +to be of two colours—one is brown and the other is yellow, and the red +is cayenne pepper (if required, hot <ins title="curries).">curries).”</ins> He is a little plaintive +about mulligatawny. “Why English people always spell this word +wrong? Everybody knows this—mollagoo, ‘pepper;’ tanney, ‘water.’” +So the reformers who call it “mulligatunny” are just as bad as we +devotees of mumpsimus and mulligatawny ourselves. We note with +special pleasure a receipt for “chicken moley”—evidently the same +genus as that “mollet” which puzzled Mrs. Clarke. And all the prescriptions +are interesting. “Maldive fish” seems to take the place of +“Bombay duck” in these southern regions, and the number of Vegetable +Curries is particularly noteworthy. Nobody need think from the +specimens we have given that Mr. Santiagoe is unintelligible. His +English may be “pigeon,” but it is a much more easily digestible +tongue than the high and mighty gobble-gobble of some of our own +professors of style and matter.</p> + +<p class="center">[True copy from “<span class="smcap">Saturday Review</span>.”]</p> +</div> + + +<h1 class="page-break" style="line-height: 1.8em; font-size: x-large;"><small>THE</small><br/> +CURRY COOK'S ASSISTANT;<br/> + +<small>OR</small><br/> + +<big>CURRIES,</big><br/> +HOW TO MAKE THEM IN ENGLAND<br/> +<i>IN THEIR ORIGINAL STYLE</i>.</h1> + + +<p class="center" style="line-height: 1.4em; max-width: 24em; margin: auto;"><small>BY</small><br/> +DANIEL SANTIAGOE, <span class="smcap">General Servant</span>,<br/> +<small>SON OF FRANCIS DANIEL, <span class="smcap">Butler and Fiddler, Trichinopoly, +Madras, India, and Colombo, Ceylon</span></small></p> + +<hr style="margin: 1em auto;"/> + +<p class="center">CEYLON TEA HOUSE WAITER</p> + +<p class="center smcap">Royal Jubilee Exhibition, Liverpool, 1887<br/> +International Exhibition, Glasgow, 1888</p> + + +<p class="center" style="margin: 3em auto;">THIRD EDITION</p> + + +<p class="center" style="line-height: 1.5em;">LONDON<br/> +KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH & CO., 1, PATERNOSTER SQUARE<br/> +1889</p> + + + +<p class="page-break center" style="margin: 10em auto;">(<i>The rights of translation and of reproduction are reserved.</i>)</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_v" title="v"> </a> +<h2>INDEX.</h2> +</div> + +<hr/> + +<p class="center smcap" style="font-size: larger;">LIST AND NAMES OF CURRIES, Etc.</p> + +<table id="index" summary="List and Names of Curries, etc."> +<colgroup> + <col style="width: 2.5em;"/> + <col style="width: 10em;"/> + <col/> + <col style="width: 2.5em;"/> +</colgroup> +<tr> + <th class="number">NO.</th> + <th colspan="3" class="page">PAGE</th> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">1.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_1">Home-made Curry Powder</a></td> + <td class="page">1</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">2.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_2">Beef Curry (Plain)</a></td> + <td class="page">5</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">3.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_3">Beef Curry (Ceylon Way)</a></td> + <td class="page">6</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">4.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_4">Beef Curry (Madras)</a></td> + <td class="page">7</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">5.</td> + <td><a href="#No_5">Beef Curry (Kabob)</a></td> + <td>Madras</td> + <td class="page">9</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">6.</td> + <td><a href="#No_6">Beef Curry (Dry)</a></td> + <td class="ditto">do.</td> + <td class="page">11</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">7.</td> + <td><a href="#No_7">Beef Curry (Balls)</a></td> + <td class="ditto">do.</td> + <td class="page">12</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">8.</td> + <td><a href="#No_8">Chicken Curry</a></td> + <td class="ditto">do.</td> + <td class="page">13</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">9.</td> + <td><a href="#No_9">Snipe Curry</a></td> + <td class="ditto">do.</td> + <td class="page">14</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">10.</td> + <td><a href="#No_10">Pigeon Curry</a></td> + <td class="ditto">do.</td> + <td class="page">15</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">11.</td> + <td><a href="#No_11">Pork Curry</a></td> + <td class="ditto">do.</td> + <td class="page">16</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">12.</td> + <td><a href="#No_12">Veal Curry</a></td> + <td class="ditto">do.</td> + <td class="page">17</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">13.</td> + <td><a href="#No_13">Mutton Curry</a></td> + <td class="ditto">do.</td> + <td class="page">18</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">14.</td> + <td><a href="#No_14">Partridge Curry</a></td> + <td class="ditto">do.</td> + <td class="page">19</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">15.</td> + <td><a href="#No_15">Tripe Curry</a></td> + <td class="ditto">do.</td> + <td class="page">20</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">16.</td> + <td><a href="#No_16">Liver Curry</a></td> + <td class="ditto">do.</td> + <td class="page">21</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">17.</td> + <td><a href="#No_17">Chops Curried</a></td> + <td class="ditto">do.</td> + <td class="page">22</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">18.</td> + <td><a href="#No_18">Steaks Curried</a></td> + <td class="ditto">do.</td> + <td class="page">23</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">19.</td> + <td><a class="pagenum" name="Page_vi" title="vi"> </a><a href="#No_19">Game Curry (Various)</a></td> + <td class="ditto">do.</td> + <td class="page">24</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">20.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_20">Rabbit (or Young Hare) Curry</a></td> + <td class="page">25</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">21.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_21">Egg Curry (Whitish Yellow)</a></td> + <td class="page">27</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">22.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_22">Egg Curry (Brown)</a></td> + <td class="page">28</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">23.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_23">Egg Curry (Omelet)</a></td> + <td class="page">30</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">24.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_24">Egg Curry (Poached)</a></td> + <td class="page">31</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">25.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_25">Fried Eggs for Curries</a></td> + <td class="page">32</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">26.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_26">Curry Sauce (Brown), for any Meat</a></td> + <td class="page">33</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">27.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_27">Curry Sauce (Yellow), for Vegetables and Fish</a></td> + <td class="page">35</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">28.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_28">Curried Fowl (a Joint)</a></td> + <td class="page">36</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">29.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_29">Chicken Moley</a></td> + <td class="page">38</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">30.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_30">Fish Moley</a></td> + <td class="page">39</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">31.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_31">Fish Curry (Salmon)</a></td> + <td class="page">41</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">32.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_32">Fish Curry (Various)</a></td> + <td class="page">42</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">33.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_33">Sardines Curried</a></td> + <td class="page">43</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">34.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_34">Vegetable Curries</a></td> + <td class="page">44</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">35.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_35">Potato Curry</a></td> + <td class="page">45</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">36.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_36">Cabbage Curry</a></td> + <td class="page">46</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">37.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_37">Bean Curry</a></td> + <td class="page">47</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">38.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_38">Onion Curry</a></td> + <td class="page">48</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">39.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_39">Devilled Cabin Biscuits</a></td> + <td class="page">49</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">40.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_40">Devilled Meats</a></td> + <td class="page">50</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">41.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_41">Mulligatawny</a></td> + <td class="page">51</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">42.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_42">Pillau Rice (a Mohammedan Dish)</a></td> + <td class="page">53</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">43.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_43">Lemon (Hot) Sauce</a></td> + <td class="page">54</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">44.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_44">Apple Chutney (How to Make it in England)</a></td> + <td class="page">55</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number" style="padding-right: 0;">44a.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_44a">Mint Chutney</a></td> + <td class="page">56</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">45.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_45">Quickly-made Samball</a></td> + <td class="page">57</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">46.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_46">How to Fry Red Herrings for Curries</a></td> + <td class="page">58</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">47.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_47">Toast Curry</a></td> + <td class="page">59</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">48.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a class="pagenum" name="Page_vii" title="vii–viii"> </a><a href="#No_48">How to Make Rice Powder</a></td> + <td class="page">60</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">49.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_49">Mushrooms Curried and Served on Toast</a></td> + <td class="page">61</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">50.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_50">How to Boil Rice for Curries</a></td> + <td class="page">62</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">51.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_51">A Salad for Dinner, etc., in Hot Weather</a></td> + <td class="page">64</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">52.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_52">Sundal or Poogathu, made of Cabbage and other Greens</a></td> + <td class="page">66</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">53.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_53">Vegetables Boiled for Table</a></td> + <td class="page">67</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">54.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_54">Economical Curry Paste</a></td> + <td class="page">68</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">55.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_55">Curry Powder (a Recipe)</a></td> + <td class="page">69</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">56.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_56">Curry Powder (Ordinary Way)</a></td> + <td class="page">70</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">57.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_57">Curry Powder (a Most Excellent)</a></td> + <td class="page">71</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">58.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_58">Tomato Curry</a></td> + <td class="page">73</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">59.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_59">Curries under Various Names</a></td> + <td class="page">74</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">60.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_60">Chutney Chicken</a></td> + <td class="page">75</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="number">61.</td> + <td colspan="2"><a href="#No_61">When to use Curries</a></td> + <td class="page">76</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td colspan="3" class="smcap" style="padding-left: 0.5em;"><a href="#Glossary">Tamil and English Names for Curry Stuffs, Etc.</a></td> + <td class="page">77</td> +</tr> +</table> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_ix" title="ix"> </a> +<h2><span class="smcap">INTRODUCTION BY J. L. SHAND, Esq.</span></h2> +</div> + + +<p class="no-indent"><span class="smcap">Daniel Santiagoe</span>, who has twice come from his +Ceylon home to serve me in England and Scotland, +now gives to the world a second edition of a +very valuable little book, and has asked me to +write him an introduction.</p> + +<p>An introduction is generally apologetic, but I +depart from custom and congratulate the purchasers +of this book upon obtaining a collection +of recipes which may add much to their gastronomic +enjoyment, and perhaps also contribute to health +and longevity.</p> + +<p>“I do not care for Curry, it is too hot!!!” is a +common but erroneous plaint; and the disciple of +Santiagoe will find recipes which provide the full +delicacy of Eastern condiments without the discomfort +of excessive heat.</p> + +<p>Why do old East Indians live so long? is a +question often asked.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_x" title="x"> </a> +Because so many of them are pensioners, says +the student of finance.</p> + +<p>Because so many of them are Curry eaters, says +the student of hygiene.</p> + +<p>All human nature requires to be occasionally +stimulated, and a mild Curry acts upon the torpid +liver, reacts upon the digestive organs, and provides +the necessary stimulant without injurious +consequences.</p> + +<p>It is a remarkable fact that nearly all Curry-eating +nations are abstainers from strong drinks.</p> + +<p>Daniel Santiagoe's English may occasionally provoke +a smile, but it is “English as she is spoken” +by several millions of Her Majesty's subjects, and +its originality often lends it force.</p> + +<p>Were excuse necessary it would be found in this, +that Daniel Santiagoe is a domestic servant to +whom English is a foreign tongue.</p> + +<p class="signature">JOHN LOUDOUN SHAND.</p> + +<p class="smcap">24, Rood Lane, London, E.C.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_xi" title="xi"> </a> +<h2>PREFACE BY AUTHOR.</h2> +</div> + + +<p class="no-indent"><span class="smcap">With</span> much thankfulness to Mr. A. Egmont Hake +for his kindness in writing a preface for my first +book on Curries, and great credit is due to <cite>Saturday +Review</cite> and humble respect is due to my two +masters, Shand, Haldane & Co., of London, who +brought me over to England and Scotland, with four +other servants, and allowed me to publish a little +book to make my desired little fortune, which is +highly creditable. From the first edition of 500 +copies I fully sold 400, and another hundred +copies presented to friends in England and Ceylon. +My intention in publishing this second edition +is that I have given too little recipes and +information in my first book for sixpence each +copy. Though I thought it is worth making it an +enlarged and revised edition for same price this +time, I should like to give good many recipes for +making a Curry, and give the names of all Meat +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_xii" title="xii"> </a>and Vegetable in English and Tamil. In each +heading of Curries two sorts of ingredients are +given—one to be procured in England, the other +in Ceylon; and also each Curry will be properly +instructed. I have tasted the Curries made by +Bengalee, etc., on board of steamers and on shore. +They use proper Curry Stuffs, etc., but they +flavour it too much; using plenty of ghee and fat +mutton, etc.,—these spoil the taste. Just the +same with Bombay Curries, but in Madras is the +only place you could taste a proper Curry, and +also in Ceylon, as a good many cooks of Madras +Presidency came to Ceylon several years ago and +spread out the art of general cooking in Ceylon. +I believe at first the cooking business was instructed +by European cooks. At present there is +too many cooks in Ceylon; almost every butler, +appoo, second servant, kitchen mate, groom, etc., +knows to cook a English dinner!!!</p> + +<p>Now we shall go on with our Curry business. +I recommend to try Curry Powders from several +grocers. The best Curry Powder is made of +coriander seed (which could be got from the +chemist's), saffron, dry chillies, cumin seed, few +mustard seed, few pepper corns. If the Curry +Powder contains all the above, it is a good Curry +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_xiii" title="xiii"> </a>Powder. Some Curry Powders tastes of acid, +flour, and other mixtures, which I believe is unwholesome +in every means. The Tamils use +tamarind for the acid taste. To every brown +Curries the Singalese use Gorakka<a name="FNanchor_1_1" href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> (a sour fruit), +slightly dried, and lime juice to their yellow +Curries. There is much different taste between +a Singalese Curry and a Tamil Curry—the taste +just differs the same as a Madras beef Curry, +No. 4, and a potato Curry (vegetable). The +Curries should be treated same as a ordinary +entree. If one article you had too much, it will +spoil the whole Curry. If the meat over done, +no taste in it. If you have all Curry stuffs, etc., +at hand, could make a Curry Sauce in ten +minutes the longest, and can warm up any meat +for table in it (I mean the brown). The white +Curry Sauce is not suitable, unless for a vegetable +or fish.</p> + +<p>I could give several other recipes to Curries, but +the above said sixty will be quite sufficient. If +you carefully tried the above said Curries will be +found most economical.</p> + +<p>A Madras woman can beat any other Indian +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_xiv" title="xiv"> </a>woman in Curry cooking. In several gentry's +houses in Madras, etc., they keep a woman to +make Curries and prepare vegetables for table—we +call her “Thanney Kareyitchi”—besides the +cook and kitchen matey.</p> + +<p>The Madras Curry always the best, much different +than a Bengal or Bombay Curry, to my +opinion.</p> + +<p class="signature">D. SANTIAGOE.</p> + +<p class="center smcap" style="float: left;">International Exhibition,<br/> +Glasgow, 1888.</p> + + + +<div style="clear: both; margin-top: 12em;"> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_xv" title="xv"> </a> +<h2>PREFACE OF MY FIRST EDITION.</h2> +</div> + +<p class="center" style="font-size: larger; margin-top: -0.7em;"><span class="smcap">By A. Egmont Hake</span>, Esq.</p> + +<p class="center" style="margin-bottom: 1em;">[<i>TRUE COPY.</i>]</p> + + +<p class="no-indent"><span class="smcap">The</span> author of this little work has asked me to write +him a Preface, and I gladly do so, especially if it +will help to find him buyers, as well as readers, +who will put into practice the admirable receipts +he offers to gourmets and others. For my own +part I can speak with some authority—indeed the +best—as to the excellence of Santiagoe's Curries, +for I am among the fortunate few who have tasted +them in England.</p> + +<p>I was particularly struck by a remark which +Santiagoe made when I asked him what he would +like me to write in his little book. Some authors +might have replied “Speak up for my Curries!” +others might have said, “Say a good word for my +book;” but he, in the fulness of gratitude, said, +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_xvi" title="xvi"> </a>“Praise my Masters.” He then went on to speak +of how Mr. Shand and Mr. Haldane had brought +him and his fellow-servants all the way from Ceylon +to England.</p> + +<p>It is only fair to point out that the English of +this little book is not “English as she is spoken,” +but represents the expression of Santiagoe in its +native costume—it is Tamil Anglicised by Santiagoe +himself. As Santiagoe says, “I like broken +English, because ladies gentlemen like that.” The +author is a native of Trichinopoly. His grandfather +and uncle were distinguished drummers in +Indian infantry regiments—in other words, they +were masters of the tom-tom. He has lived all his +life in Ceylon,<a name="FNanchor_2_2" href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> and for the last seven years—that +is, since he was sixteen—has been in the service +of English residents, of whom he appears to have +nothing but pleasant recollections. It would seem +that this will be the case in his experience of England, +whither he has come with others as waiter at +the Ceylon Tea Rooms in the Liverpool Exhibition—though +he told me with much modesty that +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_xvii" title="xvii"> </a>“people were very kind, but he supposed the +Ceylon servants were a novelty.”</p> + +<p>It is, to say the least, highly creditable to Santiagoe +that, with many duties to perform, and these +amid the distracting influences of our Western civilization, +he should have compiled this useful little guide +to the art of Curry cooking. The spirit of Brillat-Savarin +and of Soyer is stronger than the ephemeral +attractions of an exhibition. Let us hope Santiagoe's +enterprise will be more lasting than these; +that it will achieve its aim in popularizing Ceylon +Curries in this country; and that his “Book on +Curries” will pass through many editions, and +bring him the “little fortune” he deserves.</p> + +<p class="signature">(Signed)<span style="padding-left: 1.5em;"> </span> A. EGMONT HAKE,</p> + +<p style="text-indent: -2em; padding-left: 2em; margin-left: 1.5em;"><i>Author of “General Gordon's Journal at Khartoum;” +Editor of “The Story of Chinese Gordon,” etc., etc.; +Commissioner of War Trophies, Royal Jubilee Exhibition, +Liverpool, 1887.</i></p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_xviii" title="xviii"> </a> +<h2>COPY OF THE NOTE OF MY FIRST +EDITION ON CURRIES.</h2> +</div> + + +<p class="no-indent"><span class="smcap">I beg</span> to bring the following Receipts to Curries, +etc. I hope it will be handy to ladies, housekeepers, +cooks, etc. I only mention the easy way +of making it in England, for scarcity of fresh and +pure Curry stuffs none procurable. Still, it is very +troublesome to grind the Curry stuffs without a +Curry stone, which is very common to a native +Cooly of India. No native houses without a Curry +stone. The way the native girls, etc., grind the +Curry stuffs will be an astonishment to European +ladies. The best way to grind the Curry powder in +England, by hard stone made mortar or pounder, +but the best and easy way is to buy from your +respected grocers, which, I should say, ought to be +of two colours, one is brown and the other is +yellow, and the red is cayenne pepper (if required +hot Curries).</p> + +<p>With regard to above, if care should be taken +and make the Curries with any of the following +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_xix" title="xix"> </a>meat:—Beef, mutton, chicken, fish, etc., etc., and +vegetables, you will find it an economical dish for +an English meal to have an Indian dish; if little +care and attention is given to it, will find it as a +relish. The same time I must say, many parties +visited our Indian continent will know the taste of +a Curry as well as my own experience. I have +been instructed by several head cooks of India and +Ceylon. My own people are cooks under several +respected gentry of Ceylon and India. Now, I +must say, it is a national food to natives of India +and Ceylon as beef and bread to Europeans. With +attention to this I myself am a servant of gentlemen +as approved cook, second boy, dressing boy, house +and general servant, and will answer to several +other capacity, as clerk, store-keeper, etc., etc. I +only thought of publishing this little work by request +of several parties requiring me to write some +good Curries.</p> + +<p>So just the same time I may have the chance of +printing it and make a small fortune by the favour +of customers, and by their favouring me to sell +these few hundred copies, will be highly thankful; +but I regret to say that I should have written large +and more recipes, but my time is very little to spare +to attend to this work.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum" name="Page_xx" title="xx"> </a> +With regards I hope the lovers of Curry will be +satisfy with these accompanying recipes, which, I +should say can be made in England with Curry +stuffs and provisions procurable here. The fact is +I myself have tried several of these Curries in England +during my short visit in England, and found +to be a good result, in fact, not in its original taste, +but only second to it in my opinion. If carefully +prepared will find it as a economical dish for breakfast, +lunch, or dinner. Only little time and attention +is required. I wish the reader will have the +pleasure of reading this book right through first.</p> + +<p>Another matter to point out, that in Madras +cooks make Curries with or without cocoanut, but +in Ceylon no Curries without cocoanut, neither any +vegetable Curries without Maldive fish. For this +point I have given recipes to make with milk, +cream, and gravy; and to every vegetable Curry +add a spoonful of chopped ham or corned beef; +this for imitation of Maldive fish.<a name="FNanchor_3_3" href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> Still it is much +richer to vegetable Curries than Maldive fish.</p> + +<p class="signature">D. SANTIAGOE.</p> + +<p class="smcap">Ceylon Court, R.J.E.,<br/> +<span style="padding-left: 3.5em;">Liverpool</span>, England, 1887.</p> + + + + +<div class="page-break"> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_1" title="1"> </a> +<p class="center" style="font-size: x-large; margin-top: 6em; line-height: 2em;"><small>THE</small><br/> +CURRY COOK'S ASSISTANT.</p> +</div> + +<hr/> + +<h2 style="margin-top: 0; page-break-before: auto;"><a name="No_1">No. 1.</a>—HOME-MADE CURRY POWDER.</h2> + + +<p class="center smcap">In England.</p> + + +<ul class="ingredients"> +<li>1 lb. Coriander Seed.</li> +<li>½ oz. Saffron.</li> +<li>1 Eggspoon Cumin Seed.</li> +<li>½ doz. Pepper Corns.</li> +<li>Small bit of Cinnamon (1 in. square).</li> +<li>8 Dried Chillies Capsicums.</li> +<li>4 Tablespoons good Rice.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="center smcap">In Ceylon.</p> + + +<ul class="ingredients"> +<li>Coriander.</li> +<li>Saffron and Cumin Seed.</li> +<li>Pepper Corns. Cinnamon.</li> +<li>Dried Chillies—Rice.</li> +<li>Curry Leaves, and few other things of which cannot be procured in England.</li> +</ul> + +<div class="note"> +<p>N.B.—I only mention this home-made Curry Powder, if +you can procure the above said Curry Stuffs separately from +the chemists or grocers. As I heard from a gentleman in +Liverpool, “Everything the world produces can be bought +in London”!!!</p> +</div> + +<p><i>Mode.</i>—Place a frying-pan (not an enamelled +one) on fire; soon as it gets hot put in the +coriander; when nice and gold colour take it off +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_2" title="2"> </a>and put on a plate again. Set the frying-pan on +fire and add the cumin seed, pepper corns, dry +chillies. Just give a shake, and take it off and +give it two or three more shakes and put on a +plate, but don't put the saffron in the frying-pan. +Now wipe the frying-pan, and set on fire again; +when hot, put in the rice, and keep on shaking +till each grain gets goldish brown; do not let it +burn. The rice on board of ships will answer to +this better than you buying from your grocer's; +but in the scarcity of above any rice will do.</p> + +<p>Now when all these are done we shall have to +grind it to a smooth powder. These cannot be +done unless you have a stone-made pounder or +Curry stone and grinder. The latter I have not +seen in England, still there is the finest strong +metal stones in England. The Curry stone and +grinder is bought for no money in up country of +Ceylon, but in Colombo, the chief city here, we +pay 50 cents, to Rs. 2 50 cts. each. Curry stone +and grinder will last for generations. It is better +to grind all Curry stuffs separately and keep each +in its own bottle, then you will be careful of what +you are about, and you will know how much you +are using of each stuff.</p> + +<p>For any meat Curry (per lb.) add one tablespoon +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_3" title="3"> </a>coriander seed, a saltspoon of saffron, a pinch of +cumin seed, dash of pepper, small bit of cinnamon, +one-half tablespoon of rice powder; if preferred +hot, add a bit of cayenne. For white Curries, +only one-half teaspoon of saffron to be added. +If at hand, just cut a young capsicum in quarters +and add to the Curry. You can add a green +chillies to Meat Curries also. If the above home +made Curry Powder cannot be done, you shall +have to buy three sorts of Curry Powder. Coriander, +rice, cumin seed, and pepper (one mixture); +cayenne and saffron each separately bottled. +Other things can be got from your respective +grocers. If you buy a mixed Curry Powder or +Paste, it will taste everything too much, as following:—Heat! +hot? bitter, sour flour, spice, and too +much of yellow colour of saffron, and too much of +a nice Curry smell. The fact is, I have tasted +several Curry Powders and Paste in England, and +also in Scotland, but nothing equal to separate +Curry stuffs. If the Curry stuffs, etc., are imported +from India to Europe it will keep good for a long +time, and will have a good market, except the dry +chillies, because there is plenty of cayenne <ins title="its">in</ins> +England. Garlic ginger (green), used for any Meat +Curry, it is very healthy and helps to digest the +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_4" title="4"> </a>Curry and rice sooner, as parties think Curries +are not easily digestible. The Curries must not +be prepared too rich, as richness takes away all +flavour, and the meat will taste like stewed Curry. +The butter you add to fry the Curry stuffs will be +quite sufficient to richen the Curry without using +fat meat.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_5" title="5"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_2">No. 2.</a>—BEEF CURRY (Plain).</h2> +</div> + + + +<ul class="ingredients"> +<li>1 lb. Beef (Fresh or Cooked Meat will do).</li> +<li>1 Tablespoon Curry Powder (not hot).</li> +<li>1 Pint good Milk or strong (Beef) Gravy.</li> +<li>1 Large Onion or few small ones.</li> +<li>1 Young Capsicum and 1 Tablespoon Rice Powder.</li> +<li>Small piece of Cinnamon.</li> +<li>Pinch of Cumin Powder; Salt to taste.</li> +</ul> + +<div class="note"> +<p>N.B.—In Ceylon we use Cocoanut Milk (the juice), Curry +Leaves, and some other Leaves for Spices.</p> +</div> + +<p><i>Mode.</i>—Cut the meat in half-inch squares; put +into a clean stew-pan, then slice the onions, and +add the onions, Curry stuffs, chillies, cinnamon, +milk, cumin seed, etc., and salt. Mix all well +together, and set on fire for 15 to 20 minutes; do +not let it burn. When serving add a few drops of +lemon juice. If required hot add a pinch of +cayenne when preparing.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_6" title="6"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_3">No. 3.</a>—BEEF CURRY (Ceylon).</h2> +</div> + +<p class="subtitle"><span class="smcap">For a Pound of Good Beef</span> (I mean lean).</p> + + + +<ul class="ingredients"> +<li>1 Tablespoon Coriander Powder and 1 of Rice Powder.</li> +<li>½ Eggspoon Saffron Powder and Pinch of Cumin Powder.</li> +<li>1 Pint good Milk or Gravy.</li> +<li>1 Large Onion or few small ones.</li> +<li>2 Young green Chillies (Capsicum).</li> +<li>A bit of Cinnamon (if you like spices); Salt to taste.</li> +</ul> + +<div class="note"> +<p>N.B.—In Ceylon all the Curry stuffs are freshly grinded. +Cocoanut Juice, Curry Leaves, etc., are used. This is a +very delicious Curry to eat with rice boiled or bread toasted.</p> +</div> + +<p><i>Mode.</i>—Cut the meat in half-inch squares and +put into a clean stew-pan with the onions sliced, +the chillies in quarters; then add all the Curry +Powder, etc. Mix well with a wooden spoon and +add three parts of a pint of milk or gravy; then +salt to taste. Set on slow fire for 15 to 20 +minutes; soon as the meat is tender (but not overdone), +then add the other quarter of milk and a +few drops of lemon juice. Just heat it again and +send to table in a vegetable dish with boiled rice +separate. If you add gravy to this Curry then +you must put in two tablespoons of cream before +sending to table.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_7" title="7"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_4">No. 4.</a>—BEEF CURRY (Madras).</h2> +</div> + +<p class="subtitle smcap">For a Pound of Beef.</p> + + + +<ul class="ingredients"> +<li>2 Tablespoons Coriander Powder and 1 of Rice Powder.</li> +<li>1 Saltspoon Saffron and a Pinch of Cumin Powder and Fenugreek.<a name="FNanchor_4_4" href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a></li> +<li>½ Pint of Milk or good Gravy.</li> +<li>1 Large or few small Onions.</li> +<li>A bit of Cinnamon, 2 Cloves (if you wish spices).</li> +<li>½ Teaspoon Green Ginger chopped up fine.</li> +<li>A Small Garlic chopped up fine.</li> +<li>1 Large Spoonful of Butter (fresh); Salt to taste.</li> +</ul> + +<div class="note"> +<p>N.B.—This Curry is made in Madras with or without +Cocoanut, but little Tamarind will flavour this Curry better +than Lemon Juice. Vinegar, Curry Leaves, etc., are used in +Madras and Ceylon. This is a first-class Curry if carefully +prepared.</p> +</div> + +<p><i>Mode.</i>—Have the meat ready cut in half-inch +squares; then slice the onions; put a good stew-pan +on the fire, add the butter; soon as the butter +gets hot put in the onions and Curry Powder, but +not the ginger, garlic, and spices. When the +onions, Curry stuffs, etc., are nicely browned, add +the meat, garlic, ginger, spices, and give it a turn. +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_8" title="8"> </a>Let it stand for a few seconds, then add the milk +or gravy, salt, etc.; set on slow fire for about 20 +minutes. When sending to table add a few drops +of lemon or good pickle vinegar, but tamarind is +best. Add little cayenne if preferred hot; a hot +Curry is considered always nice and healthy, the +cayenne to be added when preparing.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_9" title="9"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_5">No. 5.</a>—BEEF CURRY (Kabob or Cavap +Curry).</h2> +</div> + + +<ul class="ingredients"> +<li>1½ lb. Lean Beef.</li> +<li>2 Tablespoons Coriander Powder and 1 of Rice Powder.</li> +<li>1½ Saltspoon Saffron and a good Pinch of Cumin Powder.</li> +<li>1 Good Pint of fresh Milk or Gravy.</li> +<li>1 Large Onion or few small ones.</li> +<li>Ginger, about 2 inches long.</li> +<li>2 Long Budded Garlics.</li> +<li>1 Large Spoon Butter (fresh).</li> +<li>Spices; Salt to taste.</li> +</ul> + +<div class="note"> +<p>N.B.—This Curry same as Madras Curry, No. 4, but the +meat ought to be of tender part. Must not overdo it, neither +burn it. If tamarind used, it is nicer.</p> +</div> + +<p><i>Mode.</i>—This is a first-class Curry if carefully +prepared. Cut the meat in half-inch squares; the +ginger as round as a threepenny piece, and the +garlic the same size, but thicker. Now sharpen +few thin sticks with points to stick the meat (I mean +as large as champagne bottle wire, three to four +inches long). Now begin the job; stick one of +meat, another of garlic, another of meat, and one +of ginger (I mean a piece of meat must be between +garlic and ginger). Proceed as above till you finish +the meat, etc.; now place a stew-pan on fire; put +in the butter and the onions sliced. When nicely +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_10" title="10"> </a>browned add the Curry stuffs and the meat. Now +let the whole fry gently in the butter for five +minutes; now pour the milk in and let it simmer +gently for 20 minutes. When serving add a +spoonful of cream and a few drops of lemon, and +send to table with boiled rice (separate).</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_11" title="11"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_6">No. 6.</a>—BEEF CURRY (Dry).</h2> +</div> + + +<p>Same ingredients as for Madras Curry, No. 4, +and prepare the same way, but do not add any +milk. Add about four tablespoons of good gravy +when preparing, but add two tablespoons of cream +five minutes before serving. (If I say dry, not +very dry, but second to it; add few drops of +lemon when sending to table.) This Curry must +be put on very slow fire, a hot oven will do; if so, +you must look every five minutes in case it burns. +This Curry can be eaten with rice, boiled potatoes, +or toast if wished. Some dry Curries are done in +a frying-pan within ten minutes, only the onions +and Curry stuffs should be browned, and the meat +mixed with it.</p> + +<div class="note"> +<p>N.B.—Must use a wooden spoon to all Curries when +browning the Onion and Curry Stuffs, etc.; better than a +plated one.</p> +</div> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_12" title="12"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_7">No. 7.</a>—BEEF CURRY (Ball).</h2> +</div> + + +<p>Take a pound of beef free from skin, bone, etc., +put into a sausage machine, and get it mashed up; +put on a plate, pepper it slightly. Now take ingredients +same as for No. 4, and chop fine the ginger, +garlic, and mix with the meat with little salt. +Now make this meat into balls as large as a +marble, flour it, and fry in lard to a brown colour. +Do not let it break. Now keep this to a side, and +place a good stew-pan on fire, and put in the butter +and the onions sliced, and the Curry Powder. +When all these nice and brown add the meat balls +to it. Just mix slowly, not to break the meat balls. +Now add half-pint of good milk, or gravy, and let +it stand on a slow fire till wanted. When serving, +add a spoonful of cream, few drops of lemon, and +salt to taste, and send to table with boiled rice, +etc.</p> + +<div class="note"> +<p>N.B.—This Curry must not overdo, neither must the meat +be overdone when frying; and when passing the meat through +sausage machine, at the same time you can add the spice, +garlic, ginger, with the meat to be mashed up. If preferred +hot, add little cayenne pepper.</p> +</div> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_13" title="13"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_8">No. 8.</a>—CHICKEN CURRY.</h2> +</div> + + + +<ul class="ingredients"> +<li>One good-sized Chicken (about a pound or more).</li> +</ul> + +<p>Other ingredients same as for Madras Curry, +No. 4. Now cut up the chicken in half of each +joint. Keep it to a side. Now fry the onions, +sliced, in a stew-pan, with a large spoon of butter. +When the onions are nice and brown, just fry the +chicken in it less than half done. Take it out and +keep to a side. Now fry the Curry Powder till it +is nice and dark brown, then add the chicken, +more onions, and other things into the frying +Curry Powder, etc., and add half-pint of good +gravy, and set it on a slow fire for 20 minutes. +When serving, add two large spoons of cream. +If it is very dry, add little more gravy to it. A +few drops of lemon will flavour it, but I recommend +to make the chicken into a “moley,” as No. 29. +Much nicer to be eaten with rice or treated +as an ordinary entree, and the curried fowl (whole) +nicer as a joint.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_14" title="14"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_9">No. 9.</a>—SNIPE CURRY.</h2> +</div> + + +<p>Dress four snipes as for serving on toast; then +cut in halves, pepper and salt it, roll it in little (or +sprinkle with) flour, and fry it in a large spoon of +butter or lard, quarter done or nearly half done. +Keep it to a side. Now take a good stew-pan, +put on fire, melt a spoonful of butter, and fry a +large onion, sliced; put in</p> + + +<ul class="ingredients"> +<li>1 Tablespoon Coriander.</li> +<li>1 Dessertspoon Rice Powder.</li> +<li>A pinch of Cumin Powder.</li> +<li>A pinch of Saffron and Spices.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="no-indent">Let all these fry gently in the butter, then add +half-pint of good gravy, salt to taste, and let this +stand on a hot oven, simmering gently till required. +Five minutes before serving, add the fried <em>snipes</em>, +with a few drops of lemon juice, and send to table. +Do not let it be too juicy, but the half-pint of +gravy should be reduced to a quarter-pint. Cayenne +pepper should be added if preferred hot +Curries. Snipe should only be heated through, +and not quite <em>over</em>done. This Curry nice with +rice, toast, etc. etc. Can almost be treated as an +entree.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_15" title="15"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_10">No. 10.</a>—PIGEON CURRY.</h2> +</div> + + +<p>Take four young pigeons and dress same as for +salmi of pigeon, and treat the same way as for +Snipe Curry, No. 9. Any curry may be made of +different taste by reducing the ingredients or +exceeding it, or by using tamarind or pickle +vinegar instead of lemon juice, or using milk +instead of gravy; and to some Curries add cream, +and other Curries using cocoanut juice (milk).</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_16" title="16"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_11">No. 11.</a>—PORK CURRY.</h2> +</div> + + +<p>One pound of fresh and lean pork, and the +ingredients same as for Madras Curry, No. 4; use +only three parts of everything. A pinch of +Cayenne will flavour this Curry. Tamarind (an +acid?) is nicer than lemon juice, vinegar, etc. +To use the tamarind, take a piece the size of a +large walnut, put into a cup and add about two +tablespoons of cold water, and squeeze it with a +spoon or with your finger, strain through a clean +muslin and add to the Curry. Tamarind is always +good for any sort of brown Curry, and lemon +juice for yellow or white Curries, and vinegar for +“moley,” because it is an entree, and not much +Curry stuffs are used.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_17" title="17"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_12">No. 12.</a>—VEAL CURRY.</h2> +</div> + + +<p>Everything same as Madras Curry, No. 4, but +veal Curry, not nicer. If you have veal chops, +treat same as Curried mutton chops, No. 17.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_18" title="18"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_13">No. 13.</a><ins title="[— missing in original]">—</ins>MUTTON CURRY.</h2> +</div> + +<p class="subtitle smcap">For One Pound Mutton (without Fat).</p> + + +<p>Ingredients same as for Madras Curry, No. 4 +but not the quantity. Only three parts should be +taken of each; the Curry stuffs need not be fried +as for Madras Curries, but cut the mutton in half-inch +squares, put into a stew-pan, and then add +the Curry stuffs (powders?), spices, etc., and add +a tablespoon of cream when serving, as well as a +few drops lemon juice. Curries made from +mutton are not so nice as if made from tender +part of beef, but in India and Ceylon several +castes do not touch beef—they call themselves +high caste people, and bear numerous names—they +always eat mutton, fowl, vegetable, etc. The +Brahman caste never eat any meat of any sort; +still they eat the pure juice of beef—as milk, +ghee,<a name="FNanchor_5_5" href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> butter, and another kind of medicine made +out of the flesh of the ox, called in Tamil +“paroong kayam.”<a name="FNanchor_6_6" href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a></p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_19" title="19"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_14">No. 14.</a>—PARTRIDGE CURRY.</h2> +</div> + + +<p>I have nothing to say for this Curry, because +you can imitate the pigeon Curry; anyhow you +must put in strong gravy, as partridge does +not taste nice if curried. If you have any +partridge left from dinner, the next day you may +Curry it same as pigeon, but don't let it simmer +too long over the oven. Any kind of game +(birds?) can be made same as the pigeon.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_20" title="20"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_15">No. 15.</a>—TRIPE CURRY.</h2> +</div> + + +<p>Take about two lbs. of good, thick part of the +tripe, cut them in about four inches square, or not +at all, dip it in hot water, not boiling, but nearly +so. Then take out and scrape off all the black +stuff, and clean it as white as a white tablecloth, +and boil it tender as you boil for “Tripe Fricassee.” +When cool cut it in half-inch squares, +slightly pepper it. Place a stew-pan on fire, and +put in a lump of butter. When hot add the tripe, +fry it to a brownish gold colour, then take out and +put in a plate till required. Now add the Curry +stuffs, as No. 4, into the stew-pan on the fire, and +turn it over and over till nice and brown. Now +add the tripe you fried, and half-pint of good +gravy, and let it simmer gently on slow fire. When +serving add a tablespoon of cream and few drops +of lemon. Some nice spices and a pinch of +cayenne pepper should be added when frying the +Curry Powders. This is a very nice Curry. By-the-by, +the gravy you boil the tripe in should be +boiled with other bones, vegetables, etc., and add +to the Curry instead of other gravy.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_21" title="21"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_16">No. 16.</a>—LIVER CURRY, WITH BACON.</h2> +</div> + + +<p>Take a pound of liver and a piece of fat of +bacon, boil both in one pan for quarter of an hour, +then take it off the fire, let it cool, then cut it in +half-inch squares, add about ¼ lb. bacon to a +pound of liver, and treat it same as Madras Curry, +No. 4. The Liver Curry considered not nicer. +Parties in India and Ceylon (Europeans) do not +care much for Liver Curry but as an entree, +“Liver and Bacon.” A breakfast dish in India +and Ceylon.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_22" title="22"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_17">No. 17.</a>—CHOPS CURRIED.</h2> +</div> + + +<p>This is a changeable way to have mutton chops +done for breakfast or as an entree for dinner. +Take eight good chops, and flavour it the usual as +for serving itself (I mean place the chops on a flat +dish, pepper and salt it). Vinegar, a dash of +Lucca oil, and few drops of sauce, and let these +soak for a few minutes, then place a frying-pan on +fire, add a lump of butter. When melted add the +chops, and fry it in usual way of mutton chops. +When done take it off the frying-pan, keep it in a +plate. Now take a large onion and slice it, and +fry it to a gold colour in the frying-pan you fried +the chops, then add all the Curry stuffs to it as +said in the Madras Curry, No. 4, except the +cayenne, ginger, and garlic. When all these are +nicely fried add four spoons of good stock (brown), +and now add the chops into the frying-pan. Let +it warm, then serve on a hot dish, and send to +table with potatoes, vegetables, etc., same as an +entree. Certainly can used with boiled rice too.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_23" title="23"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_18">No. 18.</a>—STEAKS CURRIED.</h2> +</div> + + +<p>Same as chops curried, but to fry the steaks +first, then proceed same as for mutton chops. +Mashed potatoes should join this dish, and boiled +spinach fried in butter with an onion will be a nice +accompaniment, but tough part of beef wouldn't +do neither. You must not beat up the steaks with +a chopper or steak tenderer, because all the juice +will be out; scarcely any taste. When serving +add a few drops of lemon juice, and this Curry will +taste nicer if gleeced before sending to table in the +following way:—Set a stew-pan on fire, when hot +put a small bit of butter and a small onion, finely +sliced, and teaspoon of any gravy. Now use a +wooden spoon for frying the onions, and press +them in the sauce-pan. When nice and brown +colour, and the fried onions have stuck in the +sauce-pan, pour the Curry you prepared and a +spoon of cream; let it simmer a few minutes. +Send to table with rice. Don't forget to add +lemon juice or vinegar.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_24" title="24"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_19">No. 19.</a>—GAME CURRIES (Various).</h2> +</div> + + +<p>The Game Curry I mean is thus:—elk; venisons; +poultry, as turkey, geese, duck, etc.; rabbit, etc. +Can be curried same as No. 4, but it is not nicer +to make them into a yellow Curry, as for fish or +vegetables.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_25" title="25"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_20">No. 20.</a>—RABBIT OR YOUNG HARE +CURRY.</h2> +</div> + + +<div class="note"> +<p>N.B.—I think the Rabbit made into a gleeced brown stew +much nicer than putting it in a jar, and prepare like a jugged +hare, as it takes away all the flavour, and the gravy tastes +nice, and the meat almost like the soup meat or plain boiled +meat; but the Curried Rabbit is not a bad recipe, if properly +made, to use as an ordinary entree.</p> +</div> + +<p>Take a small rabbit; skin it; and cut up in +small pieces as large as two inch square; flour it, +and fry in butter or lard, just underdone, and +brown it outside; keep it to a side. Now place +a stew-pan on fire, and add the remaining butter +or lard you fried the rabbit with; when this lard is +nice and hot, slice one onion, and brown in the +stew-pan. Now add Curry powder same as Madras +Curry, No. 4. When all these are nice and brownish +gold, add a pint of gravy or milk, and let it +simmer gently on slow fire; and quarter of an hour +before sending to table, add the fried rabbit to the +Curry sauce, and let it simmer for 15 minutes. +When serving add few drops of lemon juice, and +a spoon of cream. The above Curry for boiled +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_26" title="26"> </a>rice; if for an “entree,” just cut the rabbit in +joints, and prepare same as the above Curry. +When serving add a glass of claret in place of +lemon juice.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_27" title="27"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_21">No. 21.</a>—EGG CURRY (Whitish Yellow).</h2> +</div> + + +<p>Hard boil six eggs, and put in cold water till +wanted. Now place a stew-pan on fire, and add +half teaspoon of saffron powder (yellow); half-pint +of milk; one large onion, sliced; one tablespoon +finely chopped ham or corned beef; one green +capsicum, cut in quarters; one potato, mashed up +(the potato left from last meal will do). Now +simmer this for quarter of an hour; don't let it +burn. When serving, take eggs out of the shell; +cut in halves; place the eggs on a vegetable dish +(the cut part up). Now add a tablespoon of +cream, and a few drops of lemon juice; salt to +taste, and pour over the eggs, and send to table +with a brown Curry to accompany the rice (boiled). +Samball and fried herring may be sent with these +above Curries and rice. Poppadoms<a name="FNanchor_7_7" href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> and Bombay +ducks will be a good accompaniment if could be +procured.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_28" title="28"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_22"><ins title="o.">No.</ins> 22.</a>—EGG CURRY (Brown).</h2> +</div> + + +<p>Boil the eggs same as No. 21, and put in cold +water till wanted. Now prepare Curry sauce +(brown) as No. 26, pour over the eggs cut in +halves, as egg Curry (yellow). Egg Curries always +called in Ceylon “a rest-house Curry,” because in +several rest-houses in Ceylon usually not many +visitors pass that way, beside these rest-house +keepers cannot get fresh beef, etc. They always +have plenty of eggs, fowls, native vegetables, +etc., but egg Curry only can be made quick. +When a gentleman is going from one planting +district to another, a box cooly or a horse-keeper +(groom) runs in front to a certain place, by order +of his master. When he gets into the rest-house, +the rest-house keeper knows that a gentleman is +coming. At once he will order to kill a chicken +and grill it in Scotch form? and boil two eggs; +when this is doing the kitchen mate<a name="FNanchor_8_8" href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> will squeeze +half of a cocoanut, with little water mix some +saffron, salt green chillie, Maldive fish, etc., now +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_29" title="29"> </a>he boils this for five minutes. There is the breakfast +ready! The bill of fare may be thus:—Grilled +chicken; boiled pumpkin or beans, sometimes +potatoes; boiled rice; egg Curry; samball; +tea, coffee, or beer, etc. The dinner might be +similar to above with addition of soup. Sometimes +the Curries are made from native vegetables, +as there is plenty of nice and wholesome vegetables +in Ceylon (I mean) besides the English +vegetables. The rest-houses are in place of refreshment +rooms and eating-houses are in England.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_30" title="30"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_23">No. 23.</a>—EGG CURRY (Omelet).</h2> +</div> + + +<p>Make a savoury omelet with chopped ham, +parsley, etc. When done, cut in one-inch squares, +and pour over the Curry sauce, brown or yellow, +as Nos. 21 and 22.</p> + +<div class="note"> +<p>N.B.—The omelet should only be made just before +serving, as it will get tough, etc. The Curry sauce may be +made beforehand.</p> +</div> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_31" title="31"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_24">No. 24.</a>—EGG CURRY (Poached).</h2> +</div> + + +<p>Prepare Curry sauce, brown or yellow, as Nos. 26, +27. When serving just let the Curry sauce +simmer <ins title="gently">gently.</ins> Now break the eggs carefully and +put in the Curry sauce, each separately. Same as +poaching eggs in a frying-pan. The pan must be +a wide stew-pan. When dishing you must carefully +take the yolks without breaking them and pour +over the gravy, and send to table with boiled rice; +and thin slices of ham should be handed round +with this Curry and rice. Don't forget the samball +for every Curry, as well as fried red herring.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_32" title="32"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_25">No. 25.</a>—FRIED EGGS FOR CURRIES.</h2> +</div> + + +<p>Beat up the eggs same as for savoury omelet, but +omit the sweet herbs, add chopped ham, salt, +pepper, dash of flour, and pinch of cayenne, and +fry in butter or lard (same as omelets, or in small +cakes). Send to table with the Curry and rice in +separate dish. The above dish (usually the native +way) not used in gentlemen's houses, but I recommend +it to be tried.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_33" title="33"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_26">No. 26.</a>—CURRY SAUCE (Brown, for +Meat of any sort).</h2> +</div> + + +<p>Place a stew-pan on fire, add a spoonful of +butter; when melted add one onion, sliced; when +half brownish colour add a tablespoon and a +half of coriander powder, one of rice powder as +No. 48, a saltspoon saffron, a pinch of cumin-seed +powder. Now turn this well with a wooden spoon. +When nicely fried, add the spices as said in the +Curry No. 4, ginger and garlic chopped up fine. +Now add a pint of good gravy or fresh milk, and +let it simmer on slow fire till you find it reduced to +a half-pint. Add salt to taste, and a little cayenne +if preferred hot. Now this Curry Sauce is ready. +This sauce can be heated up with any cold meats, as +beef, mutton, pork, poultry, game, etc., etc., because +the meat cooked beforehand cannot be cooked up +in the above sauce, only warmed up. When preparing, +the meat should only be added to the gravy +about five to ten minutes before serving. The +above recipe is only suitable for cold meats, fried +livers, chops, steaks, etc., etc. The above is a +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_34" title="34"> </a>brown Curry for parties, like the Curry stuffs; but +for yellow Curry with less Curry stuffs, etc., see the +accompanying recipe. But in Ceylon or in India +always two Curries, etc., accompany the rice; +especially in Ceylon a brown and yellow Curry, +etc., accompanies the rice to table.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_35" title="35"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_27">No. 27.</a>—YELLOW CURRY SAUCE +(for Vegetables, Fish, etc.).</h2> +</div> + + +<p>Slice one onion, one large spoonful of chopped-up +ham (fresh, best) or nice corned beef (cooked), one +green capsicum cut in quarters, one small teaspoon +of saffron powder, pinch of cayenne pepper if preferred +hot Curry, half-pint of milk, salt to taste. +Now put all these into a clean stew-pan and set on +fire for twenty minutes or more, simmer gently, and +let it reduce to half-pint. When serving add few +drops of lemon juice and a large spoon of cream. +The above Curry Sauce is very nice for fish and +vegetables. If it is cooked up vegetable or fish, +just add ten minutes before serving. If it is fresh +vegetable or fish, to be cooked in the sauce from +the beginning; see their separate headings. The +above Curry only second to a moley made of fish +or fowl.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_36" title="36"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_28">No. 28.</a>—CURRIED FOWL (a Joint).</h2> +</div> + + + +<ul class="ingredients"> +<li>1 good-sized Fowl and Curry Stuffs.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Everything same as for Madras Curry, but an +extra spoon of coriander powder and spoonful of +cocoanut scraped up fine (<i>i.e.</i>, in England I have +seen and also used cocoanut scraped and preserved +in tins by some firm in London). This +cocoanut can add to all kinds of brown Curries, as +it gives flavour to Curry; but it is a new idea, not +suitable or used in the East for a Curry. Dress +the fowl as for boiling, and boil it for few minutes +(underdone). Keep this to a side, but don't waste +the broth. Now place a large stew-pan on fire +(large enough to hold the fowl), slice one large +onion and fry in the butter. When nicely brown +take out the onions and put in the fowl, and fry it +all sides nice and gold colour, take the fowl out of +the pan. Now add all the Curry stuffs, spices, +ginger, garlic, etc., etc., and the broth that the +fowl has been boiled in, and a half-pint of milk and +bay leaves. Let all these simmer till the Curry +Sauce is reduced to a pint or little more. Now +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_37" title="37"> </a>add the fowl and turn it occasionally; do not let +it burn. When serving, add a few drops of lemon +juice or vinegar (pickled), a spoonful of cream, salt +to taste, and cayenne if preferred. Send to table +on a flat dish large enough to carve the fowl, and +leave enough gravy to go round the table; I mean +not juicy, neither dry. The above should be +treated as a joint. If any left can be warmed up +in frying-pan, the fowl cut in pieces, and send to +table with fried potatoes, garnished with nice green +cabbage (boiled), or Brussels sprouts will do best. +The above will do better on a Sunday for dinner, +as thus:—</p> + +<table id="dinner" summary=""> +<tr> + <td rowspan="4" class="text">Not a bad dinner for a small party.</td> + <td class="right"> </td> + <td class="top"> </td> + <td class="text">Beef, mullagatawny, and rice.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="right bottom"> </td> + <td> </td> + <td rowspan="2" class="text">Curried fowls, and plenty of vegetables and potatoes.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="right"> </td> + <td> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="right"> </td> + <td class="bottom"> </td> + <td class="text">Some kind of pudding.</td> +</tr> +</table> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_38" title="38"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_29">No. 29.</a>—CHICKEN MOLEY.</h2> +</div> + +<p class="subtitle smcap">For Two Young Chickens and some Gravy.</p> + + +<p>Cut up the chicken in joints, and boil all the +bones, etc., for gravy. Place a stew-pan on fire, +add the chicken-bone gravy, half-pint milk, one +small spoon of butter, one eggspoon saffron powder, +one tablespoon of chopped ham, small pinch of +cayenne, one bay leaf, spices (bit of cinnamon, two +cloves), salt to taste, one onion sliced. Let it boil +(I mean simmer) for five minutes, then add the +chicken, set on slow fire till the meat is tender. +When serving, mix a dessertspoon of flour in two +tablespoons of cream in a tea cup, then add this +into the moley and stir well; let simmer for two or +three minutes. When dishing, add a few drops +of lemon juice or pickled vinegar. The above dish +should be light-yellow colour, the gravy thick as +cream. Mashed potatoes and fried bacon may +garnish this dish, with red carrots, cut fine and +pretty, and stuck in the mashed potatoes round +the dish. The above entree should be served up +on a small flat dish for a dinner, lunch, supper, +etc.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_39" title="39"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_30">No. 30.</a>—FISH MOLEY.</h2> +</div> + +<p class="subtitle smcap">For Two Pounds of Salmon.</p> + + +<div class="note"> +<p>N.B.—The Fish Moley is almost like a Curry (<i>see</i> Fish +Curry, Salmon, No. 31).</p> +</div> + +<p>Cut the salmon nearly an inch thick, then cut it +in two inches long, one inch wide, or little round +pieces. Now mix in a stew-pan the following:—a +pint of fish stock, white gravy, or milk, one small +spoon of butter, one eggspoon saffron powder, one +dessertspoonful finely-chopped ham, pinch of +cayenne, one bay leaf, spices (bit of cinnamon or +cloves), one large onion sliced, salt to taste. Mix +all the above into the stew-pan, and set on fire. +When it simmers, add the fish and let it simmer +gently until the fish is done. When serving, mash +up a boiled potato in two tablespoons of cream. +Pour to the moley, and add few drops of lemon +juice, and send to table with boiled potatoes +(mashed up and baked in an oven), in shape as +a pudding. Suppose if you have any cold fish +boiled the day before, just only mix up the sauce +and let it simmer till wanted, and add the fish five +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_40" title="40"> </a>or ten minutes before sending to table. Any fresh +beef, cold beef, mutton, etc., can be made into +moley, but the fresh beef ought to be tender part—the +under cut of a sirloin will do nicely. It cannot +be made from pork, because it will not taste as +nice as chicken or fish.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_41" title="41"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_31">No. 31.</a>—FISH CURRY (Salmon).</h2> +</div> + + +<p>The fish Curry is made several different ways in +Ceylon and India, as brown or yellow Curry, but +similar to fish moley, hard-boiled egg Curry, No. 22, +and the potato Curry, No. 35; but you must add a +spoonful of chopped ham or corned beef, and use +lemon juice, not vinegar. The fish Curry (brown) +can be made same as Madras Curry, No. 4. But +proceed to make the Curry Sauce, No. 26, then add +the fish. As soon as the fish is tender, the Curry +is ready. Don't add any butter to fish Curries. +The native cooks use the coriander, saffron, +chillies, etc., without roasting them in the frying-pan.—See +“Home-made Curry Powder,” No. 1, +but grinding it without roasting.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_42" title="42"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_32">No. 32.</a>—FISH CURRY (Various).</h2> +</div> + + + +<ul class="ingredients" style="max-width: 10em;"> +<li>Salmon.</li> +<li>Haddocks.</li> +<li>Soles.</li> +<li>Whiting.</li> +<li>Codfish.</li> +<li>Whitebait.</li> +<li>Fresh Herrings.</li> +<li>Lobsters.</li> +<li>Crabs.</li> +<li>Oysters.</li> +<li>Prawns.</li> +<li>Shrimps, etc.</li> +</ul> + +<p>The above Fish Curries can be made same as +Salmon Curry, No. 31, egg Curry (yellow), fish +moley, Madras Curry, No. 4, but great care must +be taken not to be burned. The soles and whiting +are not nice when curried, and the oysters should +be used without the liquor. Prawns and shrimps +are celebrated Curries if they are freshly caught +and properly prepared. Tamarind used for Fish +Curries (brown) are very nice—better than lime +(lemon) juice or vinegar.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_43" title="43"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_33">No. 33.</a>—TINNED SARDINES (Curried).</h2> +</div> + +<p class="subtitle smcap">For a Small Tin of Sardines of One Dozen.</p> + + +<p>Take the sardines, and take off the black part; +just finely scrape; with a spoon place on a tin or +plate, and make it warm in an oven. Now make +a Curry sauce (brown), same as No. 26, but less +milk or gravy. The Curry sauce must not be +more than a small tea cup, nice and thick, if not +thicker,—just mash up a boiled potato, and add to +the sauce. Just before serving, take each sardine +carefully and place in the Curry sauce you made; +do not stir it; set on slow fire for five minutes. +When serving take each carefully without breaking, +arrange them nicely on a Curry or vegetable +dish; pour over the gravy, and send to table with +boiled rice or hot toast. Any tinned fish can +be made same as the above, except Yarmouth +bloaters, smoked fish, salt fish, mackerel, etc., etc. +Tinned salmon makes a nice Curry. Afraid it +will mash up and be like a gruel instead of lumps. +The above Curry sauce will answer to several +boiled fish—boiled the day before.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_44" title="44"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_34">No. 34.</a>—VEGETABLE CURRIES +(Various).</h2> +</div> + + +<p>With reference to above, the potato, knol khol, +turnips, carrots, parsnips, vegetable marrow, cucumber, +beans, etc., can be made same way as potato +Curry, No. 35; but cabbage, spinach, turnip tops +(young shoots), Brussels sprouts, can be made +same way as potato Curry, with same ingredients, +but the cabbage, Brussels sprouts, etc., take little +more time to tenderly boil; therefore extra gravy, +milk, butter, and extra spoon of ham or corned +beef. Onions should be added for greens. The +more good gravy you add the better the Curry. +As far as I have seen, there is not many English +vegetables can be Curried, but in India and +Ceylon there is numberless vegetables, greens, +grasses, etc., can be Curried.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_45" title="45"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_35">No. 35.</a>—POTATO CURRY.</h2> +</div> + +<p class="subtitle smcap">For One Pound of Good Potatoes (peeled).</p> + + +<p>Cut them in half-inch squares; put them into a +clean stew-pan with an eggspoon of saffron; one +large onion, sliced; one large spoon of chopped +ham or corned beef (salt to taste); three parts of +a pint of milk. Mix well together; put in a bay +leaf; set on fire, and let it simmer till the potatoes +are tender. If the three-quarters pint of milk is +not sufficient to tender the potatoes, add some +good gravy (stock), but not brown stock. When +serving, add a quarter pint of milk and a dessertspoon +or more of cream, and let it simmer. When +simmering add a few drops of lemon juice, and +send to table with boiled rice. But a Brown +Curry must accompany the above Curry.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_46" title="46"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_36">No. 36.</a>—CABBAGE CURRY.</h2> +</div> + + +<p>Take half of a small cabbage, and cut it with a +sharp knife as big as you cutting a lettuce for +a salad; wash it thoroughly clean; put into a stew-pan +with a pint of gravy, and boil it till half done. +Now take it off the fire; add an eggspoonful of +saffron powder; two large spoons of chopped ham, +etc.; a pinch of cayenne (if required hot); one +large onion, sliced; salt to taste. Mix well; set +on fire. More gravy or milk should be added, till +the cabbage is soft as usual form.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_47" title="47"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_37">No. 37.</a>—BEAN CURRY.</h2> +</div> + +<p class="subtitle smcap">For a Pound of French Beans.</p> + + +<p>Cut up the beans one inch long and prepare +same as the cabbage Curry. The same ingredients +will do and must accompany a meat Curry to +table. These Curries may only be gleeced, if you +please, or can serve plain, but the gleece gives a +nice smell and good taste. Any Curry can be +gleeced. If you wish to make Curry of broad +beans, must take off the thicker skin and weigh a +pound; but broad beans are not a useful bean for +Curry, but only better as a vegetable by cooking it +in a jar with butter and mint.—See Vegetables for +Table, as No. 53.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_48" title="48"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_38">No. 38.</a><ins title="[— missing in original]">—</ins>ONION CURRY.</h2> +</div> + + +<p>Same as potato Curry, No. 35. The large +onions should be cut in quarters, and the small +onions put in whole; but in India and Ceylon we +have onions (I mean the button onions with red +skin) which makes a delicious Curry.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_49" title="49"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_39">No. 39.</a>—DEVILLED CABIN BISCUITS.</h2> +</div> + + + +<ul class="ingredients"> +<li>1 Onion sliced.</li> +<li>1 Dessertspoon Butter.</li> +<li>2 Tablespoons of good Beef Gravy.</li> +<li>1 Eggspoon or less of Cayenne.</li> +<li>Pinch of Pepper; Salt to taste.</li> +<li>1 Small Potato mashed up.</li> +<li>1 Dessertspoon of Worcester Sauce (Lea & Perrins).</li> +</ul> + +<p><i>Mode.</i>—Slice the onions and fry in a stew-pan +with the butter; when the onions turn to a gold +colour add all other ingredients. During you preparing +the above, soak six cabin biscuits in boiling +water for two minutes, then take it out of the water +and dish the biscuits, and pour over the devil +gravy you prepared. Cover the biscuits with gravy +and serve hot. The above dish is good for lunch, +etc.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_50" title="50"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_40">No. 40.</a>—DEVILLED MEAT (Various).</h2> +</div> + + +<p>Same ingredients as for biscuits, No. 39, but +meat must be cut two inches long and added to +the stew-pan soon as the onions are fried. Give it +stirring for some while by turning the pieces of +meat in it. By-the-bye, the fresh meat should be +fried a little brown, because fresh meat devilled +always tough unless the meat is undercut. Extra +spoons of gravy should be added to devilled meats. +Cuttings from cold joints are nice devilled; but +fresh beef ought to be of tender part (as I said +before, undercut). Fowl, duck, mutton, turkey, +geese can be done in same way (I mean from joints +roasted beforehand); but you must reduce or +exceed the ingredients for the amount of weight. +The quantities given for devilled biscuits are sufficient +for 1 lb., or less of meat. Be careful not to +burn.—See Devilled Biscuits.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_51" title="51"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_41">No. 41.</a>—MOLLAGOO TANNEY, AND +NOT MULLIGATAWNY.<a name="FNanchor_9_9" href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a></h2> +</div> + + + +<ul class="ingredients"> +<li>2 Good Quarts of Gravy of Mutton Beef or Chicken Soup.</li> +<li>2 Large Spoons of Coriander Powder.</li> +<li>1 Tablespoon of Rice Powder as No. 48, and Pinch of Pepper.</li> +<li>1 Pint of good Milk.</li> +<li>2 Large Onions, sliced.</li> +<li>1 Piece of Ginger.</li> +<li>1 Garlic, small one.</li> +<li>½ Teaspoon of Cumin Powder.</li> +<li>Pinch of Saffron.</li> +<li>1 Dessertspoon Butter.</li> +</ul> + +<p><i>Mode.</i>—The Curry stuffs you use for mollagoo +tanney should be very fine. Take a large stew-pan +and mix all the above together, only one onion +(sliced), garlic and ginger chopped up fine. Let +these simmer for ten minutes, now strain it through +a muslin or gravy strainer. Now fry the other +onion in the dessertspoon of butter in another +stew-pan. When the onions are browned add the +mollagoo tanney with a small bay leaf, and skim +off the grease, and send to table in a soup tureen +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_52" title="52"> </a>as a soup; but this should be used instead of soup, +or the first dish for a lunch or breakfast or dinner, +but I recommend for dinner in Europe. Cut +lemon should be handed round with the above and +plain boiled rice. Fried red herring wouldn't be +a bad accompaniment. In India the mullagatawny +is used generally once a week—say on a Sunday or +Wednesday. The natives usually have this mullagatawny +on Fridays after their caste. Some mullagatawny +are made of plain Curry stuffs, tamarind, +etc., not worth for Europeans. Some parties who +visited India like native mullagatawny better than +the above, according to taste, but I recommend +the above for Europeans. The cayenne pepper +should be added if required hot.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_53" title="53"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_42">No. 42.</a>—PILLAU RICE (a Mohammedan +Dish), au Joint for Dinner.</h2> +</div> + + +<p>Cook rice as No. 50. Keep it aside till wanted, +then place a frying-pan on fire. Have two large +onions (sliced) and two tablespoons of butter, and +add half-teaspoon of saffron. When all the above +is nicely brown add the rice, and keep on turning +for few minutes, sprinkle a little salt. Now this is +ready after dishing the above. Fry a large onion +(sliced), and raisins (fried), sliced almonds. Sprinkle +the above three over the pillau rice. The pillau +rice should accompany roast fowl or mutton chops +by dishing the meat on a flat dish, and cover it +with pillau rice, and sprinkle over with fried onions, +etc. Parsley mint can be fried and added. If it +is to be eaten with Curry, use Madras Curry, kabob, +or salmon, and omit the meat with pillau.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_54" title="54"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_43">No. 43.</a>—LEMON (HOT) SAUCE.</h2> +</div> + + + +<ul class="ingredients"> +<li>Juice of a Large Lemon.</li> +<li>1 Dessertspoon Cayenne.</li> +<li>1 Dessertspoon Pounded White Sugar; some Salt.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Mix all together in a cup and use. If required +to be kept, boil the whole in an enamel-plated +saucepan; when cold bottle it. This sauce is +very nice with cold meat or with made dishes.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_55" title="55"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_44">No. 44.</a>—APPLE CHUTNEY.</h2> +</div> + +<p class="subtitle smcap">How to make in England.</p> + + + +<ul class="ingredients"> +<li>½ lb. Sour Apples, peeled and cored.</li> +<li>¼ lb. Currants.</li> +<li>1 oz. Chillies (or ½ oz. Cayenne).</li> +<li>1 Tablespoon Brown Sugar.</li> +<li>4 oz. Salt, or to taste.</li> +<li>1 Eggspoon Pepper, finely ground.</li> +<li>1 oz. Garlic, chopped up fine.</li> +<li>¼ oz. Green Ginger, chopped up fine.</li> +<li>¼ lb. Raisins.</li> +</ul> + +<p><i>Mode.</i>—Have the currants and raisins clean, +and pound them in grinder or pounder of stone. +Now grind the apples and all other ingredients to +a smooth paste (I mean, not too thin or in lumps). +Now mix these well together with half bottle of +best vinegar, and bottle it in tart fruit bottles, +corked well. If you require sweeter have more +sugar, and if it is too watery put in a little less of +vinegar. The above plan of chutney is suitable +for cold meats, Curries, etc. In Ceylon, Mango +Chutney is made in similar way, but they use +tamarind, and when grinding use vinegar to soften +the ingredients when grinding.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_56" title="56"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_44a">No. 44a.</a>—MINT CHUTNEY.</h2> +</div> + + + +<ul class="ingredients"> +<li>½ lb. Mint.</li> +<li>1 oz. Cayenne.</li> +<li>¼ lb. Salt.</li> +<li>¼ lb. Raisins.</li> +<li>2 oz. Ginger.</li> +<li>¼ lb. Brown Sugar.</li> +<li>1 oz. Garlic.</li> +<li>½ Bottle Vinegar to grind the above.</li> +<li>½ Bottle Vinegar, hot, to pour over.</li> +</ul> + +<p><i>Mode.</i>—Grind or pound the above by adding +the cold vinegar by degrees to soften. When nice +and smooth, put into a bowl and pour over the hot +vinegar. When cool, bottle it in tart fruit bottles, +and cork well.</p> + +<div class="note"> +<p>N.B.—I can give dozens of recipes for chutney. I am +afraid it is no use telling in this book, because the ingredients +cannot be procured fresh, as mangoes, pineapples, lavi-lavi, +blinga, tamarind, ripe chillies, chutnies, etc., etc. The above +is a recipe I tried in Newera Eliya, Ceylon, where fresh mint +can be had in any quantity of first class, same as in England +and Scotland.</p> +</div> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_57" title="57"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_45">No. 45.</a>—QUICKLY-MADE SAMBALL.</h2> +</div> + +<p class="subtitle smcap">How to make it in England.</p> + + +<div class="note"> +<p>Chop up fine one large onion, a teaspoon of cayenne, +another of crushed sugar, one tablespoon finely-chopped ham +(cooked), one teaspoon salt, one tablespoon vinegar or lemon +juice.</p> +</div> + +<p><i>Mode.</i>—Mix all the above in a small bowl with +a wooden spoon or with your clean finger. Now +add the vinegar. Again mix well, and send to +table with cold pork, Curries, etc. A little more +sugar may be added if preferred sweet. There are +great many samballs can be made, but all must +pass the Curry stone or stone-made pounder. The +samballs made of dry chillies, green chillies, cocoanut +juice, Maldive fish, onions, cooked fishes, +meats, mint, etc., etc. The samballs are a great +improvement to Curries. In Ceylon every cook +would send a samball to table with the Curry and +rice; also native meals are never without a samball—especially +<em>samball</em>, or some ball. It is only +a new-made chutney or pickle, but <em>fresh</em> made, +called <em>sampball</em>.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_58" title="58"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_46">No. 46.</a>—HOW TO FRY RED HERRINGS +FOR CURRIES.</h2> +</div> + + +<p>Take two stout common red herrings, cut them +about one and a-half inch long (cross ways); put +in a plate and add one tablespoon of vinegar and +a little dash of cayenne; roll the herrings well, and +fry them in butter or lard, and send to table dry, +free from grease. To be eaten with rice and Curry +instead of Bombay ducks.</p> + +<p>The above is a new idea, which I came to know +during my first visit to England, Royal Jubilee +Exhibition, 1887, in Liverpool.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_59" title="59"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_47">No. 47.</a>—TOAST CURRY.</h2> +</div> + + +<p>Prepare some Curry gravy, same as Madras +Curry, No. 4. Now toast two slices of bread; cut +thin, and in diamond shape. After toasted, dish +the toast on a vegetable dish, and pour over the +gravy you prepared, and send to table hot, with +Curry and rice, samball, etc.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_60" title="60"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_48">No. 48.</a>—HOW TO MAKE RICE +POWDER.</h2> +</div> + + +<p>Take a pound of good rice, and pick out all the +black and other things from it. And now place a +frying-pan on fire; soon as it gets hot put in the +rice, and keep on turning till you find it nice and +brown colour; then put on a plate to get cool; +then pound this in a stone-made mortar or pounder +(very fine), and bottle it, well corked. Use a tablespoon +to brown Curries.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_61" title="61"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_49">No. 49.</a>—MUSHROOMS CURRIED AND +SERVED ON TOAST.</h2> +</div> + + +<p>Pick out half-pound of fresh and good mushrooms; +sprinkle with little pepper and salt. Now +prepare Curry sauce as for Snipe Curry. Fry the +mushrooms in a dessertspoon of butter, and add to +the Curry sauce; let it simmer gently for five +minutes, then serve on hot toast. A nice dish for +lunch or supper. When eating, a dash of cayenne +and mushroom ketchup may be a nice taste. Try +the above.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_62" title="62"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_50">No. 50.</a>—RICE, HOW TO BOIL FOR +CURRIES.</h2> +</div> + + +<p>Take an enamelled saucepan to hold four quarts, +and fill it three-quarters full of fresh water, and let +it boil. During the time the water is boiling, soak +two pounds of rice (white) for three minutes in +cold water; then strain off the water, and put the +rice in the pan that is boiling, and stir for two +minutes, and cover it up. When boiling put in a +spoon, and take out some rice and feel it with your +finger. If it is done drain off all the water, and +place the pan near a hot oven till wanted.</p> + +<p>Must not let it be overdone. If it is overdone +and nearly soft, just drain the boiling rice water, +and add a few cups of very cold water. Stir it, +and drain again, and set by the fire or on hot oven +for a few minutes, and you will find each grain +separate. Boiled rice ought to have each grain +separate.</p> + +<div class="note"> +<p>N.B.—The rice I have seen in England they call it +“Patcha Areysi,” used for rice cakes, etc., in India and +Ceylon, etc. I mean the rice taken out the shell without +boiling the paddy. The rice taken out the shell, called +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_63" title="63"> </a>“Sothareysigal,” as follows, of Rangoon, Chittagong, +Bengal, etc., etc.:—</p> + + +<ul class="ingredients" style="font-size: 1em; max-width: 12em;"> +<li>Samba.</li> +<li>Muthoo Samba.</li> +<li>Mollagoo Samba.</li> +<li>Oosi Samba.</li> +<li>Collundha.</li> +<li>Bangalam.</li> +<li>Cara.</li> +<li>Vallareysee.</li> +<li>Masareysi.</li> +<li>Waddakathy Samba.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="no-indent">And several other native names too numerous to mention. +The above all good for eating after boiled.</p> +</div> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_64" title="64"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_51">No. 51.</a>—A SALAD FOR DINNER, Etc., +for Hot Weather.</h2> +</div> + + + +<ul class="ingredients"> +<li>Cucumber.</li> +<li>Beet Root, boiled.</li> +<li>Hard-Boiled Eggs.</li> +<li>Ripe Tomatoes.</li> +<li>Water-Cress.</li> +<li>1 Large Onion, thin sliced.</li> +<li>Cold Fowl, Beef, or Mutton.</li> +</ul> + +<p><i>Mode.</i>—Cut the meat in thin slices, and put in +a flat dish, then slice the cucumber, beet root, eggs, +tomato, and onion, and dress the dish with the +above, neatly arranging by putting one piece +cucumber, another of beet root, another of eggs, +and another of tomato, and put the sliced onions +in the middle, and the water-cress round the dish as +a decoration. Now prepare this</p> + +<p class="center smcap">Sauce.</p> + + +<ul class="ingredients"> +<li>Yolks of 2 Hard Boiled Eggs.</li> +<li>1 Potato, finely mashed up.</li> +<li>1 Dessertspoon of Made Mustard.</li> +<li>1 Teaspoonful of crushed Sugar, another of Butter.</li> +<li>2 Dessertspoons of Condensed Milk (omit the Sugar); or,</li> +<li>1 Large spoon of Cream instead of Condensed Milk.</li> +<li>½ Teaspoon of Salt, Dash of Cayenne and Pepper.</li> +<li>3 Tablespoons Vinegar, or more.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Take a small bowl and mash up the potato, +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_65" title="65"> </a>yolks of eggs, mustard, sugar, salt, butter. When +nice and smooth add the milk or cream. After +mixed add the vinegar, and mix well and keep +separate. When sending to table just pour the +sauce all over the salad with a spoon. Let it +stand for two minutes and serve. The above can +be made with or without meat, and also with +lettuce if at hand. Several other salads could be +made as learned cooks have written in the cooks' +books; but the above I tried myself in one of +my former masters' bungalows in Ceylon and in +England.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_66" title="66"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_52">No. 52.</a>—SUNDAL OR POOGATHU +(a Native Dish).</h2> +</div> + + +<p>Finely cut one cabbage (a small one)—I mean +as fine as the tobacco used for cigarettes, put a +stew-pan on fire, add a small spoonful of butter, +one onion (sliced). When the onions are nice and +brown put in the cabbage, give it a turn, and add a +teacup of good gravy, and cover it up, and set on +gentle fire for few minutes; then add a spoonful of +chopped ham, dash of cayenne and pepper, a pinch +of saffron powder, and set over an oven till wanted. +Do not let it burn; keep on turning. When nice +and dry send to table with Curry, and rice, and +samball. The above can be made from any +greens; but this is not in use in European houses +in Ceylon, but very nice dish for Curries.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_67" title="67"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_53">No. 53.</a>—VEGETABLES BOILED FOR +TABLE.</h2> +</div> + + +<p>French beans, broad beans, peas, Brussels +sprouts, etc., will be nice when boiled in preserve +jar with a lump of butter, salt, and dash of pepper +(and mint to peas), but Brussels sprouts requiring +lots of cooking may add some water to it. Spinach +and sorrel can be cooked in a jar with a small +onion (sliced), and little more salt to sorrel. Any +vegetables might be done as above. I think it is +an economical way of cooking vegetables; but +I am afraid it wouldn't do for large establishments +as hotels, etc., but for family houses it is a better +way. The jar to be placed in a large pan, half +full of water, and see it occasionally to prevent +drying up.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_68" title="68"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_54">No. 54.</a>—ECONOMICAL CURRY PASTE.</h2> +</div> + + + +<ul class="ingredients"> +<li>1 lb. Coriander Seed.</li> +<li>¼ lb. Dry Chillies.</li> +<li>½ lb. Mustard Seed.</li> +<li>2 oz. Garlic.</li> +<li>2 oz. ——</li> +<li>½ lb. Dried Peas.</li> +<li>½ pint Vinegar.</li> +<li>¼ lb. Saffron.</li> +<li>¼ lb. Pepper.</li> +<li>2 oz. Dry Ginger.</li> +<li>½ lb. Salt.</li> +<li>½ lb. Brown Sugar.</li> +<li>2 oz. Cumin Seed.</li> +<li>½ pint Lucca Oil.</li> +</ul> + +<div class="note"> +<p>N.B.—Few Bay Leaves in Ceylon and India. Using +Carugapilbay or <em>Curry Leaves</em>, black.</p> +</div> + +<p><i>Mode.</i>—Grind all the above with the vinegar +using to moisten the ingredients, using a Curry +stone or stone-made pounder. When all the +above nice and thin as a paste, put in a jar and +pour over the Lucca oil, and cover it up. Use a +large spoon for Madras Curries. The above good +for mushroom, snipe, partridge, and other brown +Curries of superior quality.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_69" title="69"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_55">No. 55.</a>—CURRY POWDER (a Recipe).</h2> +</div> + + + +<ul class="ingredients"> +<li>2 lbs. Coriander Seed.</li> +<li>½ oz. Chillies.</li> +<li>4 oz. Pepper.</li> +<li>7 oz. Cumin Seed.</li> +<li>7 oz. Mustard Seed.</li> +<li>1 oz. Bay Leaves.</li> +<li>8 oz. Carum Seed.</li> +<li>2 oz. Saffron.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Make all the above into powder, and calculate +the weight—ought to equal. Use one and a-half +tablespoonful for brown Curries only.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_70" title="70"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_56">No. 56.</a>—CURRY POWDER (a Recipe).</h2> +</div> + + + +<ul class="ingredients"> +<li>1 lb. Coriander Seed.</li> +<li>¼ lb. Cumin Seed.</li> +<li>6 oz. Saffron.</li> +<li>10 oz. Dry Chillies.</li> +<li>2½ oz. Vantheyam (Tamil name) Fenugreek.</li> +<li>4 oz. Ginger.</li> +<li>1 Handful chopped-up Bay Leaves.</li> +</ul> + +<p>Pound smooth all these, and bottle it in, well +corked, and use as above. The above three +recipes are from Mr. Symon Nayajam, cook, of +Madras and Colombo, Ceylon.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_71" title="71"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_57">No. 57.</a>—CURRY POWDER (a most +excellent).</h2> +</div> + + + +<ul class="ingredients"> +<li>2 Large Old Fowls.</li> +<li>1 lb. Coriander.</li> +<li>⅛ lb. Chillies or Cayenne.</li> +<li>6 oz. Saffron.</li> +<li>2 Large Spoons Cumin Seed.</li> +<li>1 oz. Dry Ginger.</li> +<li>2 oz. Garlic.</li> +<li>4 Large Spoons of Rice Powder, as No. 48; or 4 Large Spoons of Dried Peas (roasted and ground).</li> +<li>½ Handful Dried Bay Leaves.</li> +<li>1 Tablespoon Peppercorns.</li> +<li>2 doz. Cloves.</li> +<li>¼ lb. Button Onions,</li> +<li>¼ lb. Butter or Ghee.</li> +</ul> + +<p><i>Mode.</i>—Clean the fowls and cut them in small +pieces, the giblets and all. Put into a large +saucepan, and add a few quarts of water, and boil +it very tender—I mean simmer gently for two +days. The bones, meat, etc., should be mashed +up. Now take out all the bones, and keep to a +side. Take a large saucepan, put in the butter +and sliced onions, and fry it to a brown colour. +Now add all the Curry Powders, garlic chopped +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_72" title="72"> </a>up, bay leaves, dry ginger, cloves, pepper, all in +powders, and fry gently for a few minutes. Now +add the gravy of boiled fowls, with the meat, etc., +and let it simmer so a few minutes. When all +these are reduced to three quarts, just dish it on +a flat dish and let it cool for a day, or till it gets +hard as a brick. Now pound this in a stone-made +mortar to a smooth powder, and bottle it, well +corked, and use for Brown Curries, a dessertspoon +to a pound, with sliced onions, milk or +gravy, and lemon juice.</p> + +<div class="note"> +<p>N.B.—The above recipe is a most excellent of all the +Curry Powders and Pastes, only second to none. In India +we can prepare the above with tamarind included, for acid +taste, and few other ingredients which can get fresh in +Ceylon and India, but I think not procurable in England.</p> +</div> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_73" title="73"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_58">No. 58.</a>—TOMATO CURRY.</h2> +</div> + + +<p>For a pound of young or green tomato, ingredients +same as for Potato Curry, No. 35, or for +Brown Curry same as No. 4, Madras Curry. Treat +it same as the Cabbage Curry. But I recommend +that tomatoes should be made Brown Curry—tastes +nice. Tomato curried is better than all +the vegetables if it is properly made. Ripe +tomato not nice when curried, only for salads.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_74" title="74"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_59">No. 59.</a>—CURRIES UNDER VARIOUS +NAMES.</h2> +</div> + + +<p>As to my opinion, Curries can be made from +anything, if you could procure the proper Curry +Powders, etc. Almost every Curry is made one +or two ways, by only reducing, exceeding, or +mixing the various Curry stuffs. Some Curries +are hot, some dry, some juicy, some sour, and so +on. Then the cooks celebrate the names in the +menu as Delhi Curry, Agra Curry, Madras Curry, +Curry à la Punjab, Bengal Curry, Mysore Curry, +and several other names too numerous to mention +in this little work. But I myself and several +parties who have visited India will be glad to +recommend Madras Curries as best; and Ceylon +Singhalese Curry (yellow) is good, made of cocoanut +juice, Maldive fish, lemon, Curry leaves, +saffron, etc. Several cooks add too much ghee +or butter, lard, etc., but it only spoils the taste of +the Curry; and some cooks put too much spice, +and give it too much flavouring. Reasonable +ingredients couldn't spoil a Curry. A small girl +of 10 years of age will make a Curry, as Curries +are easily made in India and Ceylon.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_75" title="75"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_60">No. 60.</a>—CHUTNEY CHICKEN.</h2> +</div> + + +<p>Same as country capon, or country captian, but +mix few tablespoons of mango chutney, or any +other chutneys, but not hot.</p> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_76" title="76"> </a> +<h2><a name="No_61">No. 61.</a>—WHEN TO USE CURRIES.</h2> +</div> + + +<p class="center"><i>First Course.</i></p> + + +<ul class="course"> +<li>Soup.</li> +<li>Fish.</li> +<li>Entrees.</li> +<li>Joints.</li> +</ul> + +<p class="center"><i>Second Course.</i></p> + + +<ul class="course"> +<li>Curry and Rice.</li> +<li>Sweets.</li> +<li>Cheese.</li> +<li>Dessert.</li> +<li>Coffee.</li> +</ul> + + + +<div> +<a class="pagenum" name="Page_77" title="77"> </a> +<h2><a name="Glossary">TAMIL AND ENGLISH NAMES FOR +CURRY STUFFS, etc., as used in +Ceylon.</a></h2> +</div> + + +<p>I only give a few of Tamil languages as +generally in use, but not high words. Many +parties visited our Indian continent will understand +the following and names of native vegetables:—</p> + +<table class="glossary"> +<tr> + <th>English.</th> + <th>Tamil.</th> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Rice.</td> + <td>Areysi.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Curry.</td> + <td>Currie.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Coriander.</td> + <td>Cotha Mulle.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Saffron.</td> + <td>Münjal.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Cumin Seed.</td> + <td>Seeragam.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Ginger, Dry.</td> + <td>Sukkoo.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Ginger, Green.</td> + <td>Engi.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Salt.</td> + <td>Oopoo.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Dry Chillie.</td> + <td>Cotchi Kaie.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Green Chillie.</td> + <td>Patcha Kotchi Kaie.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Cocoanut.</td> + <td>Thankaie or Thayangaie.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Maldive Fish.</td> + <td>Massi.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Milk.</td> + <td>Paal.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Bread.</td> + <td>Rotti.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Sugar.</td> + <td>Sèèney.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Water.</td> + <td>Thannir.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Cocoanut Oil.</td> + <td>Thankaie Annay.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a class="pagenum" name="Page_78" title="78"> </a>Ghee.</td> + <td>Naie.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Butter.</td> + <td>Vannai.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Onions.</td> + <td>Vengayam.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Curry Leaves.</td> + <td>Caruga Pillay.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Lemon or Limes.</td> + <td>Thascekaie.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Tamarind.</td> + <td>Puley.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Cinnamon.</td> + <td>Carova Patta.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Cloves.</td> + <td>Ikramba.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Dry Fish.</td> + <td>Caroowadoo.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Fish.</td> + <td>Meen.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Beef.</td> + <td>Erratchi.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Mutton.</td> + <td>Art Erratchi.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Pork.</td> + <td>Pandi Erratchi.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Fowl.</td> + <td>Coley.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Chicken.</td> + <td>Coley Kunju.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table class="glossary" summary="Articles of Food"> +<tr> + <th colspan="2">Articles of Food—Posana Patharitlaugal.</th> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Meat.</td> + <td>Ereitchi.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Fresh Meat.</td> + <td>Patcha Eratchi.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Ghie Fish.</td> + <td>Ney Meen.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Soles.</td> + <td>Nakoo Meen.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Shrimps.</td> + <td>Cooni, Erraal.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Prawn.</td> + <td>Erraal.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Lobster.</td> + <td>Singeerral.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Crab.</td> + <td>Nandoo.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Turkey.</td> + <td>Van Coley.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Goose.</td> + <td>Peria Vathu, or Wathu.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Teal.</td> + <td>Seeragi.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Snipe.</td> + <td>Collan or Collaan.</td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<table class="glossary" summary="Cereals"> +<tr> + <th>Cereals.</th> + <th>Thaniya Vagayi.</th> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Boiled Rice.</td> + <td>Soru.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Pearl Barley.</td> + <td>Barli Arisi.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a class="pagenum" name="Page_79" title="79"> </a>Sago.</td> + <td>Sav-vari-si.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Kurrakan Raggy.</td> + <td>Koorakan <i>Kapay</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Maize.</td> + <td>Sollam, Mākka, Solam.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Pulses.</td> + <td>Payaroo Vagaie.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Grain.</td> + <td>Kadalay, Thaniam.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Flour.</td> + <td>Mahà, Vagai.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Wheat Flour.</td> + <td>Gothuma Mā.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Corn Flour.</td> + <td>Sollam Mā.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Tapioca.</td> + <td>Eli lay Mā.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Arrowroot.</td> + <td>Coova Mā.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Cabbage.</td> + <td>Govis Keeray.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Cucumber.</td> + <td><i>Wellari.</i></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Pumpkin.</td> + <td>Poosani Kai.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Bringall.</td> + <td>Kathari Kay.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Wenda Kay.</td> + <td>Wenda Kai.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Drumstick.</td> + <td>Mooroonga Kai.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Curry Stuffs.</td> + <td>Masalai.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Pepper.</td> + <td>Melagu.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Mustard.</td> + <td>Kadoogoo.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Garlic.</td> + <td>Vella Vengāyam.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Fenugreek.</td> + <td>Vanthayam.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Dark Margosa Leaves.</td> + <td>Caroova Pillay.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Aniseed.</td> + <td>Sōōmboo.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Cardamom.</td> + <td>Alāmor elam.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><i>Nutmeg.</i></td> + <td>Sathi Kai.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Mace.</td> + <td>Sathi Pathari.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Lime.</td> + <td>Ellumitchan <i>Palam</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Fruit.</td> + <td>Pala, Vagai.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Mango.</td> + <td>Mām <i>Palam</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Plantain.</td> + <td><i>Vala</i> Palam.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Custard Apple.</td> + <td>Seitha <i>Palam</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Jack Fruit.</td> + <td>Paala, Palam.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Bread Fruit.</td> + <td>Lera Palla Kai.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a class="pagenum" name="Page_80" title="80"> </a>Bullock's Heel.</td> + <td>Rama Seitha Palam.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Pine Apple.</td> + <td>Annāsi Palam.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Orange.</td> + <td>Pani Thottam, Palam.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Guava.</td> + <td>Coiya Palam.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>I can give several other names in Tamil and +English, but my little book is too light to carry +the burden.</p> + +<p class="signature">D. SANTIAGOE.</p> + +<hr style="width: 16em; margin: 10em auto 0.5em auto;"/> + +<p class="center" style="font-size: 0.8em;">PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED,<br/> +LONDON AND BECCLES. +</p> + +<div class="footnotes"> +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="Footnote_1_1" href="#FNanchor_1_1" class="label">[1]</a> For Fish Curries, but not fresh fish—the fresh fish could +be given acid taste from lemon, or tamarind, or vinegar.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="Footnote_2_2" href="#FNanchor_2_2" class="label">[2]</a> In 1879 have been to Maldive Island, or Minicoi Island, +with my master, to a wrecked steamer of “Bird” Line.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p> +<p>Please to read the article of <cite>Saturday Review</cite> of 22nd +October, 1887.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="Footnote_3_3" href="#FNanchor_3_3" class="label">[3]</a> Dried shark, prepared in the Maldive Islands.—<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="Footnote_4_4" href="#FNanchor_4_4" class="label">[4]</a> If could be procured.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="Footnote_5_5" href="#FNanchor_5_5" class="label">[5]</a> Ghee is only melted butter, much used in India, most by +Bengali.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="Footnote_6_6" href="#FNanchor_6_6" class="label">[6]</a> Natives of India says it is a very useful medicine, but +I myself know too little history about it, but has a nasty +smell.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="Footnote_7_7" href="#FNanchor_7_7" class="label">[7]</a> Poppadoms is a thin kind of flour and turtle eggs, and +a kind of grain, mixed and made as thin as paper.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="Footnote_8_8" href="#FNanchor_8_8" class="label">[8]</a> Kitchen mate is a boy kept under the cook to do all the +washing, etc., etc.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a name="Footnote_9_9" href="#FNanchor_9_9" class="label">[9]</a> Why English people always spell this word wrong? +Everybody knows this—Mollagoo, <em>pepper</em>; tanney, <em>water</em>. +In proper Tamil the mollagoo tanney is pronounced +“Mollagoo Neer” and “Mollagoo Tannir.”</p> +</div> +</div> + +</div> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's The Curry Cook's Assistant, by Daniel Santiagoe + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CURRY COOK'S ASSISTANT *** + +***** This file should be named 34107-h.htm or 34107-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/4/1/0/34107/ + +Produced by Jana Srna and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This book was +produced from scanned images of public domain material +from the Google Print project.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Curry Cook's Assistant + or, Curries, How to Make Them in England in Their Original Style + +Author: Daniel Santiagoe + +Release Date: October 20, 2010 [EBook #34107] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CURRY COOK'S ASSISTANT *** + + + + +Produced by Jana Srna and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This book was +produced from scanned images of public domain material +from the Google Print project.) + + + + + + + [ Transcriber's Note: + Every effort has been made to replicate this text as faithfully as + possible, including inconsistencies in spelling and hyphenation; + changes (corrections of spelling and punctuation) made to the + original text are listed at the end of this file. + + a and o with macron have been replaced with a and o, respectively. + ] + + + + + THE + CURRY COOK'S ASSISTANT + + + + +NOTE ABOUT "CURRIES" IN "SATURDAY REVIEW," OCTOBER 22, 1887. + + +Everybody who likes Curry, and who can get it (the pamphlet, not the +Curry), should invest in a little pamphlet by "DANIEL SANTIAGOE, son of +Francis Daniel, butler and fiddler, of Colombo, Ceylon, and the Ceylon +Court, Royal Jubilee Exhibition, Liverpool." It is written in delightful +pigeon-English (or whatever other bird may be more appropriate to +Ceylon's isle), is quite unpretentious, avows the author's very +legitimate, and, indeed, laudable desire to "make a small fortune" by +its sale, and contains admirable receipts. Mr. Santiagoe is much less +cynical than the apocryphal Mrs. Glasse. He says, after recommending the +more excellent way of the Curry Stone, "The best and easy way is to buy +from your respected grocers, which, I should say, ought to be of two +colours--one is brown and the other is yellow, and the red is cayenne +pepper (if required, hot curries)." He is a little plaintive about +mulligatawny. "Why English people always spell this word wrong? +Everybody knows this--mollagoo, 'pepper;' tanney, 'water.'" So the +reformers who call it "mulligatunny" are just as bad as we devotees of +mumpsimus and mulligatawny ourselves. We note with special pleasure a +receipt for "chicken moley"--evidently the same genus as that "mollet" +which puzzled Mrs. Clarke. And all the prescriptions are interesting. +"Maldive fish" seems to take the place of "Bombay duck" in these +southern regions, and the number of Vegetable Curries is particularly +noteworthy. Nobody need think from the specimens we have given that +Mr. Santiagoe is unintelligible. His English may be "pigeon," but it +is a much more easily digestible tongue than the high and mighty +gobble-gobble of some of our own professors of style and matter. + +[True copy from "SATURDAY REVIEW."] + + + + + THE + CURRY COOK'S ASSISTANT; + + OR + + CURRIES, + HOW TO MAKE THEM IN ENGLAND + _IN THEIR ORIGINAL STYLE_. + + + BY + DANIEL SANTIAGOE, General Servant, + SON OF FRANCIS DANIEL, Butler and Fiddler, Trichinopoly, + Madras, India, and Colombo, Ceylon + + CEYLON TEA HOUSE WAITER + + Royal Jubilee Exhibition, Liverpool, 1887 + International Exhibition, Glasgow, 1888 + + + THIRD EDITION + + + LONDON + KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH & CO., 1, PATERNOSTER SQUARE + 1889 + + + + + (_The rights of translation and of reproduction are reserved._) + + + + +INDEX. + + +LIST AND NAMES OF CURRIES, Etc. + + NO. PAGE + + 1. Home-made Curry Powder 1 + + 2. Beef Curry (Plain) 5 + + 3. Beef Curry (Ceylon Way) 6 + + 4. Beef Curry (Madras) 7 + + 5. Beef Curry (Kabob) Madras 9 + + 6. Beef Curry (Dry) do. 11 + + 7. Beef Curry (Balls) do. 12 + + 8. Chicken Curry do. 13 + + 9. Snipe Curry do. 14 + + 10. Pigeon Curry do. 15 + + 11. Pork Curry do. 16 + + 12. Veal Curry do. 17 + + 13. Mutton Curry do. 18 + + 14. Partridge Curry do. 19 + + 15. Tripe Curry do. 20 + + 16. Liver Curry do. 21 + + 17. Chops Curried do. 22 + + 18. Steaks Curried do. 23 + + 19. Game Curry (Various) Madras 24 + + 20. Rabbit (or Young Hare) Curry 25 + + 21. Egg Curry (Whitish Yellow) 27 + + 22. Egg Curry (Brown) 28 + + 23. Egg Curry (Omelet) 30 + + 24. Egg Curry (Poached) 31 + + 25. Fried Eggs for Curries 32 + + 26. Curry Sauce (Brown), for any Meat 33 + + 27. Curry Sauce (Yellow), for Vegetables and Fish 35 + + 28. Curried Fowl (a Joint) 36 + + 29. Chicken Moley 38 + + 30. Fish Moley 39 + + 31. Fish Curry (Salmon) 41 + + 32. Fish Curry (Various) 42 + + 33. Sardines Curried 43 + + 34. Vegetable Curries 44 + + 35. Potato Curry 45 + + 36. Cabbage Curry 46 + + 37. Bean Curry 47 + + 38. Onion Curry 48 + + 39. Devilled Cabin Biscuits 49 + + 40. Devilled Meats 50 + + 41. Mulligatawny 51 + + 42. Pillau Rice (a Mohammedan Dish) 53 + + 43. Lemon (Hot) Sauce 54 + + 44. Apple Chutney (How to Make it in England) 55 + + 44a. Mint Chutney 56 + + 45. Quickly-made Samball 57 + + 46. How to Fry Red Herrings for Curries 58 + + 47. Toast Curry 59 + + 48. How to Make Rice Powder 60 + + 49. Mushrooms Curried and Served on Toast 61 + + 50. How to Boil Rice for Curries 62 + + 51. A Salad for Dinner, etc., in Hot Weather 64 + + 52. Sundal or Poogathu, made of Cabbage and other Greens 66 + + 53. Vegetables Boiled for Table 67 + + 54. Economical Curry Paste 68 + + 55. Curry Powder (a Recipe) 69 + + 56. Curry Powder (Ordinary Way) 70 + + 57. Curry Powder (a Most Excellent) 71 + + 58. Tomato Curry 73 + + 59. Curries under Various Names 74 + + 60. Chutney Chicken 75 + + 61. When to use Curries 76 + + Tamil and English Names for Curry Stuffs, Etc. 77 + + + + +INTRODUCTION BY J. L. SHAND, Esq. + + +Daniel Santiagoe, who has twice come from his Ceylon home to serve me in +England and Scotland, now gives to the world a second edition of a very +valuable little book, and has asked me to write him an introduction. + +An introduction is generally apologetic, but I depart from custom and +congratulate the purchasers of this book upon obtaining a collection of +recipes which may add much to their gastronomic enjoyment, and perhaps +also contribute to health and longevity. + +"I do not care for Curry, it is too hot!!!" is a common but erroneous +plaint; and the disciple of Santiagoe will find recipes which provide +the full delicacy of Eastern condiments without the discomfort of +excessive heat. + +Why do old East Indians live so long? is a question often asked. + +Because so many of them are pensioners, says the student of finance. + +Because so many of them are Curry eaters, says the student of hygiene. + +All human nature requires to be occasionally stimulated, and a mild +Curry acts upon the torpid liver, reacts upon the digestive organs, and +provides the necessary stimulant without injurious consequences. + +It is a remarkable fact that nearly all Curry-eating nations are +abstainers from strong drinks. + +Daniel Santiagoe's English may occasionally provoke a smile, but it is +"English as she is spoken" by several millions of Her Majesty's +subjects, and its originality often lends it force. + +Were excuse necessary it would be found in this, that Daniel Santiagoe +is a domestic servant to whom English is a foreign tongue. + + JOHN LOUDOUN SHAND. + +24, Rood Lane, London, E.C. + + + + +PREFACE BY AUTHOR. + + +With much thankfulness to Mr. A. Egmont Hake for his kindness in writing +a preface for my first book on Curries, and great credit is due to +_Saturday Review_ and humble respect is due to my two masters, Shand, +Haldane & Co., of London, who brought me over to England and Scotland, +with four other servants, and allowed me to publish a little book to +make my desired little fortune, which is highly creditable. From the +first edition of 500 copies I fully sold 400, and another hundred copies +presented to friends in England and Ceylon. My intention in publishing +this second edition is that I have given too little recipes and +information in my first book for sixpence each copy. Though I thought it +is worth making it an enlarged and revised edition for same price this +time, I should like to give good many recipes for making a Curry, and +give the names of all Meat and Vegetable in English and Tamil. In each +heading of Curries two sorts of ingredients are given--one to be +procured in England, the other in Ceylon; and also each Curry will be +properly instructed. I have tasted the Curries made by Bengalee, etc., +on board of steamers and on shore. They use proper Curry Stuffs, etc., +but they flavour it too much; using plenty of ghee and fat mutton, +etc.,--these spoil the taste. Just the same with Bombay Curries, but in +Madras is the only place you could taste a proper Curry, and also in +Ceylon, as a good many cooks of Madras Presidency came to Ceylon several +years ago and spread out the art of general cooking in Ceylon. I believe +at first the cooking business was instructed by European cooks. At +present there is too many cooks in Ceylon; almost every butler, appoo, +second servant, kitchen mate, groom, etc., knows to cook a English +dinner!!! + +Now we shall go on with our Curry business. I recommend to try Curry +Powders from several grocers. The best Curry Powder is made of coriander +seed (which could be got from the chemist's), saffron, dry chillies, +cumin seed, few mustard seed, few pepper corns. If the Curry Powder +contains all the above, it is a good Curry Powder. Some Curry Powders +tastes of acid, flour, and other mixtures, which I believe is +unwholesome in every means. The Tamils use tamarind for the acid taste. +To every brown Curries the Singalese use Gorakka[1] (a sour fruit), +slightly dried, and lime juice to their yellow Curries. There is much +different taste between a Singalese Curry and a Tamil Curry--the taste +just differs the same as a Madras beef Curry, No. 4, and a potato Curry +(vegetable). The Curries should be treated same as a ordinary entree. If +one article you had too much, it will spoil the whole Curry. If the meat +over done, no taste in it. If you have all Curry stuffs, etc., at hand, +could make a Curry Sauce in ten minutes the longest, and can warm up any +meat for table in it (I mean the brown). The white Curry Sauce is not +suitable, unless for a vegetable or fish. + + [1] For Fish Curries, but not fresh fish--the fresh fish could be + given acid taste from lemon, or tamarind, or vinegar. + +I could give several other recipes to Curries, but the above said sixty +will be quite sufficient. If you carefully tried the above said Curries +will be found most economical. + +A Madras woman can beat any other Indian woman in Curry cooking. In +several gentry's houses in Madras, etc., they keep a woman to make +Curries and prepare vegetables for table--we call her "Thanney +Kareyitchi"--besides the cook and kitchen matey. + +The Madras Curry always the best, much different than a Bengal or Bombay +Curry, to my opinion. + + D. SANTIAGOE. + + International Exhibition, + Glasgow, 1888. + + + + +PREFACE OF MY FIRST EDITION. + +By A. Egmont Hake, Esq. + +[_TRUE COPY._] + + +The author of this little work has asked me to write him a Preface, and +I gladly do so, especially if it will help to find him buyers, as well +as readers, who will put into practice the admirable receipts he offers +to gourmets and others. For my own part I can speak with some +authority--indeed the best--as to the excellence of Santiagoe's Curries, +for I am among the fortunate few who have tasted them in England. + +I was particularly struck by a remark which Santiagoe made when I asked +him what he would like me to write in his little book. Some authors +might have replied "Speak up for my Curries!" others might have said, +"Say a good word for my book;" but he, in the fulness of gratitude, +said, "Praise my Masters." He then went on to speak of how Mr. Shand +and Mr. Haldane had brought him and his fellow-servants all the way from +Ceylon to England. + +It is only fair to point out that the English of this little book is not +"English as she is spoken," but represents the expression of Santiagoe +in its native costume--it is Tamil Anglicised by Santiagoe himself. As +Santiagoe says, "I like broken English, because ladies gentlemen like +that." The author is a native of Trichinopoly. His grandfather and uncle +were distinguished drummers in Indian infantry regiments--in other +words, they were masters of the tom-tom. He has lived all his life +in Ceylon,[2] and for the last seven years--that is, since he was +sixteen--has been in the service of English residents, of whom he +appears to have nothing but pleasant recollections. It would seem that +this will be the case in his experience of England, whither he has +come with others as waiter at the Ceylon Tea Rooms in the Liverpool +Exhibition--though he told me with much modesty that "people were very +kind, but he supposed the Ceylon servants were a novelty." + + [2] In 1879 have been to Maldive Island, or Minicoi Island, with my + master, to a wrecked steamer of "Bird" Line.--Ed. + + Please to read the article of _Saturday Review_ of 22nd October, 1887. + +It is, to say the least, highly creditable to Santiagoe that, with many +duties to perform, and these amid the distracting influences of our +Western civilization, he should have compiled this useful little guide +to the art of Curry cooking. The spirit of Brillat-Savarin and of Soyer +is stronger than the ephemeral attractions of an exhibition. Let us hope +Santiagoe's enterprise will be more lasting than these; that it will +achieve its aim in popularizing Ceylon Curries in this country; and that +his "Book on Curries" will pass through many editions, and bring him the +"little fortune" he deserves. + + (Signed) A. EGMONT HAKE, + +_Author of "General Gordon's Journal at Khartoum;" Editor of "The Story +of Chinese Gordon," etc., etc.; Commissioner of War Trophies, Royal +Jubilee Exhibition, Liverpool, 1887._ + + + + +COPY OF THE NOTE OF MY FIRST EDITION ON CURRIES. + + +I beg to bring the following Receipts to Curries, etc. I hope it will be +handy to ladies, housekeepers, cooks, etc. I only mention the easy way +of making it in England, for scarcity of fresh and pure Curry stuffs +none procurable. Still, it is very troublesome to grind the Curry stuffs +without a Curry stone, which is very common to a native Cooly of India. +No native houses without a Curry stone. The way the native girls, etc., +grind the Curry stuffs will be an astonishment to European ladies. The +best way to grind the Curry powder in England, by hard stone made mortar +or pounder, but the best and easy way is to buy from your respected +grocers, which, I should say, ought to be of two colours, one is brown +and the other is yellow, and the red is cayenne pepper (if required hot +Curries). + +With regard to above, if care should be taken and make the Curries with +any of the following meat:--Beef, mutton, chicken, fish, etc., etc., +and vegetables, you will find it an economical dish for an English meal +to have an Indian dish; if little care and attention is given to it, +will find it as a relish. The same time I must say, many parties visited +our Indian continent will know the taste of a Curry as well as my own +experience. I have been instructed by several head cooks of India and +Ceylon. My own people are cooks under several respected gentry of Ceylon +and India. Now, I must say, it is a national food to natives of India +and Ceylon as beef and bread to Europeans. With attention to this I +myself am a servant of gentlemen as approved cook, second boy, dressing +boy, house and general servant, and will answer to several other +capacity, as clerk, store-keeper, etc., etc. I only thought of +publishing this little work by request of several parties requiring me +to write some good Curries. + +So just the same time I may have the chance of printing it and make a +small fortune by the favour of customers, and by their favouring me to +sell these few hundred copies, will be highly thankful; but I regret to +say that I should have written large and more recipes, but my time is +very little to spare to attend to this work. + +With regards I hope the lovers of Curry will be satisfy with these +accompanying recipes, which, I should say can be made in England with +Curry stuffs and provisions procurable here. The fact is I myself have +tried several of these Curries in England during my short visit in +England, and found to be a good result, in fact, not in its original +taste, but only second to it in my opinion. If carefully prepared will +find it as a economical dish for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Only +little time and attention is required. I wish the reader will have the +pleasure of reading this book right through first. + +Another matter to point out, that in Madras cooks make Curries with or +without cocoanut, but in Ceylon no Curries without cocoanut, neither any +vegetable Curries without Maldive fish. For this point I have given +recipes to make with milk, cream, and gravy; and to every vegetable +Curry add a spoonful of chopped ham or corned beef; this for imitation +of Maldive fish.[3] Still it is much richer to vegetable Curries than +Maldive fish. + + [3] Dried shark, prepared in the Maldive Islands.--Ed. + + D. SANTIAGOE. + + Ceylon Court, R.J.E., + Liverpool, England, 1887. + + + + +THE CURRY COOK'S ASSISTANT. + + + + +No. 1.--HOME-MADE CURRY POWDER. + + +In England. + + 1 lb. Coriander Seed. + 1/2 oz. Saffron. + 1 Eggspoon Cumin Seed. + 1/2 doz. Pepper Corns. + Small bit of Cinnamon (1 in. square). + 8 Dried Chillies Capsicums. + 4 Tablespoons good Rice. + +In Ceylon. + + Coriander. + Saffron and Cumin Seed. + Pepper Corns. Cinnamon. + Dried Chillies--Rice. + Curry Leaves, and few other things of which cannot be procured in + England. + +N.B.--I only mention this home-made Curry Powder, if you can procure the +above said Curry Stuffs separately from the chemists or grocers. As I +heard from a gentleman in Liverpool, "Everything the world produces can +be bought in London"!!! + +_Mode._--Place a frying-pan (not an enamelled one) on fire; soon as it +gets hot put in the coriander; when nice and gold colour take it off +and put on a plate again. Set the frying-pan on fire and add the cumin +seed, pepper corns, dry chillies. Just give a shake, and take it off and +give it two or three more shakes and put on a plate, but don't put the +saffron in the frying-pan. Now wipe the frying-pan, and set on fire +again; when hot, put in the rice, and keep on shaking till each grain +gets goldish brown; do not let it burn. The rice on board of ships will +answer to this better than you buying from your grocer's; but in the +scarcity of above any rice will do. + +Now when all these are done we shall have to grind it to a smooth +powder. These cannot be done unless you have a stone-made pounder or +Curry stone and grinder. The latter I have not seen in England, still +there is the finest strong metal stones in England. The Curry stone and +grinder is bought for no money in up country of Ceylon, but in Colombo, +the chief city here, we pay 50 cents, to Rs. 2 50 cts. each. Curry stone +and grinder will last for generations. It is better to grind all Curry +stuffs separately and keep each in its own bottle, then you will be +careful of what you are about, and you will know how much you are using +of each stuff. + +For any meat Curry (per lb.) add one tablespoon coriander seed, a +saltspoon of saffron, a pinch of cumin seed, dash of pepper, small bit +of cinnamon, one-half tablespoon of rice powder; if preferred hot, add a +bit of cayenne. For white Curries, only one-half teaspoon of saffron to +be added. If at hand, just cut a young capsicum in quarters and add to +the Curry. You can add a green chillies to Meat Curries also. If the +above home made Curry Powder cannot be done, you shall have to buy three +sorts of Curry Powder. Coriander, rice, cumin seed, and pepper (one +mixture); cayenne and saffron each separately bottled. Other things can +be got from your respective grocers. If you buy a mixed Curry Powder or +Paste, it will taste everything too much, as following:--Heat! hot? +bitter, sour flour, spice, and too much of yellow colour of saffron, and +too much of a nice Curry smell. The fact is, I have tasted several Curry +Powders and Paste in England, and also in Scotland, but nothing equal to +separate Curry stuffs. If the Curry stuffs, etc., are imported from +India to Europe it will keep good for a long time, and will have a good +market, except the dry chillies, because there is plenty of cayenne +in England. Garlic ginger (green), used for any Meat Curry, it is very +healthy and helps to digest the Curry and rice sooner, as parties think +Curries are not easily digestible. The Curries must not be prepared too +rich, as richness takes away all flavour, and the meat will taste like +stewed Curry. The butter you add to fry the Curry stuffs will be quite +sufficient to richen the Curry without using fat meat. + + + + +No. 2.--BEEF CURRY (Plain). + + + 1 lb. Beef (Fresh or Cooked Meat will do). + 1 Tablespoon Curry Powder (not hot). + 1 Pint good Milk or strong (Beef) Gravy. + 1 Large Onion or few small ones. + 1 Young Capsicum and 1 Tablespoon Rice Powder. + Small piece of Cinnamon. + Pinch of Cumin Powder; Salt to taste. + +N.B.--In Ceylon we use Cocoanut Milk (the juice), Curry Leaves, and some +other Leaves for Spices. + +_Mode._--Cut the meat in half-inch squares; put into a clean stew-pan, +then slice the onions, and add the onions, Curry stuffs, chillies, +cinnamon, milk, cumin seed, etc., and salt. Mix all well together, and +set on fire for 15 to 20 minutes; do not let it burn. When serving add a +few drops of lemon juice. If required hot add a pinch of cayenne when +preparing. + + + + +No. 3.--BEEF CURRY (Ceylon). + +For a Pound of Good Beef (I mean lean). + + + 1 Tablespoon Coriander Powder and 1 of Rice Powder. + 1/2 Eggspoon Saffron Powder and Pinch of Cumin Powder. + 1 Pint good Milk or Gravy. + 1 Large Onion or few small ones. + 2 Young green Chillies (Capsicum). + A bit of Cinnamon (if you like spices); Salt to taste. + +N.B.--In Ceylon all the Curry stuffs are freshly grinded. Cocoanut +Juice, Curry Leaves, etc., are used. This is a very delicious Curry to +eat with rice boiled or bread toasted. + +_Mode._--Cut the meat in half-inch squares and put into a clean stew-pan +with the onions sliced, the chillies in quarters; then add all the Curry +Powder, etc. Mix well with a wooden spoon and add three parts of a pint +of milk or gravy; then salt to taste. Set on slow fire for 15 to 20 +minutes; soon as the meat is tender (but not overdone), then add the +other quarter of milk and a few drops of lemon juice. Just heat it again +and send to table in a vegetable dish with boiled rice separate. If you +add gravy to this Curry then you must put in two tablespoons of cream +before sending to table. + + + + +No. 4.--BEEF CURRY (Madras). + +For a Pound of Beef. + + + 2 Tablespoons Coriander Powder and 1 of Rice Powder. + 1 Saltspoon Saffron and a Pinch of Cumin Powder and Fenugreek.[4] + 1/2 Pint of Milk or good Gravy. + 1 Large or few small Onions. + A bit of Cinnamon, 2 Cloves (if you wish spices). + 1/2 Teaspoon Green Ginger chopped up fine. + A Small Garlic chopped up fine. + 1 Large Spoonful of Butter (fresh); Salt to taste. + + [4] If could be procured. + +N.B.--This Curry is made in Madras with or without Cocoanut, but little +Tamarind will flavour this Curry better than Lemon Juice. Vinegar, Curry +Leaves, etc., are used in Madras and Ceylon. This is a first-class Curry +if carefully prepared. + +_Mode._--Have the meat ready cut in half-inch squares; then slice the +onions; put a good stew-pan on the fire, add the butter; soon as the +butter gets hot put in the onions and Curry Powder, but not the ginger, +garlic, and spices. When the onions, Curry stuffs, etc., are nicely +browned, add the meat, garlic, ginger, spices, and give it a turn. Let +it stand for a few seconds, then add the milk or gravy, salt, etc.; set +on slow fire for about 20 minutes. When sending to table add a few drops +of lemon or good pickle vinegar, but tamarind is best. Add little +cayenne if preferred hot; a hot Curry is considered always nice and +healthy, the cayenne to be added when preparing. + + + + +No. 5.--BEEF CURRY (Kabob or Cavap Curry). + + + 1 1/2 lb. Lean Beef. + 2 Tablespoons Coriander Powder and 1 of Rice Powder. + 1 1/2 Saltspoon Saffron and a good Pinch of Cumin Powder. + 1 Good Pint of fresh Milk or Gravy. + 1 Large Onion or few small ones. + Ginger, about 2 inches long. + 2 Long Budded Garlics. + 1 Large Spoon Butter (fresh). + Spices; Salt to taste. + +N.B.--This Curry same as Madras Curry, No. 4, but the meat ought to be +of tender part. Must not overdo it, neither burn it. If tamarind used, +it is nicer. + +_Mode._--This is a first-class Curry if carefully prepared. Cut the meat +in half-inch squares; the ginger as round as a threepenny piece, and the +garlic the same size, but thicker. Now sharpen few thin sticks with +points to stick the meat (I mean as large as champagne bottle wire, +three to four inches long). Now begin the job; stick one of meat, +another of garlic, another of meat, and one of ginger (I mean a piece of +meat must be between garlic and ginger). Proceed as above till you +finish the meat, etc.; now place a stew-pan on fire; put in the butter +and the onions sliced. When nicely browned add the Curry stuffs and the +meat. Now let the whole fry gently in the butter for five minutes; now +pour the milk in and let it simmer gently for 20 minutes. When serving +add a spoonful of cream and a few drops of lemon, and send to table with +boiled rice (separate). + + + + +No. 6.--BEEF CURRY (Dry). + + +Same ingredients as for Madras Curry, No. 4, and prepare the same way, +but do not add any milk. Add about four tablespoons of good gravy when +preparing, but add two tablespoons of cream five minutes before serving. +(If I say dry, not very dry, but second to it; add few drops of lemon +when sending to table.) This Curry must be put on very slow fire, a hot +oven will do; if so, you must look every five minutes in case it burns. +This Curry can be eaten with rice, boiled potatoes, or toast if wished. +Some dry Curries are done in a frying-pan within ten minutes, only the +onions and Curry stuffs should be browned, and the meat mixed with it. + +N.B.--Must use a wooden spoon to all Curries when browning the Onion and +Curry Stuffs, etc.; better than a plated one. + + + + +No. 7.--BEEF CURRY (Ball). + + +Take a pound of beef free from skin, bone, etc., put into a sausage +machine, and get it mashed up; put on a plate, pepper it slightly. Now +take ingredients same as for No. 4, and chop fine the ginger, garlic, +and mix with the meat with little salt. Now make this meat into balls as +large as a marble, flour it, and fry in lard to a brown colour. Do not +let it break. Now keep this to a side, and place a good stew-pan on +fire, and put in the butter and the onions sliced, and the Curry Powder. +When all these nice and brown add the meat balls to it. Just mix slowly, +not to break the meat balls. Now add half-pint of good milk, or gravy, +and let it stand on a slow fire till wanted. When serving, add a +spoonful of cream, few drops of lemon, and salt to taste, and send to +table with boiled rice, etc. + +N.B.--This Curry must not overdo, neither must the meat be overdone when +frying; and when passing the meat through sausage machine, at the same +time you can add the spice, garlic, ginger, with the meat to be mashed +up. If preferred hot, add little cayenne pepper. + + + + +No. 8.--CHICKEN CURRY. + + + One good-sized Chicken (about a pound or more). + +Other ingredients same as for Madras Curry, No. 4. Now cut up the +chicken in half of each joint. Keep it to a side. Now fry the onions, +sliced, in a stew-pan, with a large spoon of butter. When the onions are +nice and brown, just fry the chicken in it less than half done. Take it +out and keep to a side. Now fry the Curry Powder till it is nice and +dark brown, then add the chicken, more onions, and other things into the +frying Curry Powder, etc., and add half-pint of good gravy, and set it +on a slow fire for 20 minutes. When serving, add two large spoons of +cream. If it is very dry, add little more gravy to it. A few drops of +lemon will flavour it, but I recommend to make the chicken into a +"moley," as No. 29. Much nicer to be eaten with rice or treated as an +ordinary entree, and the curried fowl (whole) nicer as a joint. + + + + +No. 9.--SNIPE CURRY. + + +Dress four snipes as for serving on toast; then cut in halves, pepper +and salt it, roll it in little (or sprinkle with) flour, and fry it in a +large spoon of butter or lard, quarter done or nearly half done. Keep it +to a side. Now take a good stew-pan, put on fire, melt a spoonful of +butter, and fry a large onion, sliced; put in + + 1 Tablespoon Coriander. + 1 Dessertspoon Rice Powder. + A pinch of Cumin Powder. + A pinch of Saffron and Spices. + +Let all these fry gently in the butter, then add half-pint of good +gravy, salt to taste, and let this stand on a hot oven, simmering gently +till required. Five minutes before serving, add the fried _snipes_, with +a few drops of lemon juice, and send to table. Do not let it be too +juicy, but the half-pint of gravy should be reduced to a quarter-pint. +Cayenne pepper should be added if preferred hot Curries. Snipe should +only be heated through, and not quite _over_done. This Curry nice with +rice, toast, etc. etc. Can almost be treated as an entree. + + + + +No. 10.--PIGEON CURRY. + + +Take four young pigeons and dress same as for salmi of pigeon, and treat +the same way as for Snipe Curry, No. 9. Any curry may be made of +different taste by reducing the ingredients or exceeding it, or by using +tamarind or pickle vinegar instead of lemon juice, or using milk instead +of gravy; and to some Curries add cream, and other Curries using +cocoanut juice (milk). + + + + +No. 11.--PORK CURRY. + + +One pound of fresh and lean pork, and the ingredients same as for Madras +Curry, No. 4; use only three parts of everything. A pinch of Cayenne +will flavour this Curry. Tamarind (an acid?) is nicer than lemon juice, +vinegar, etc. To use the tamarind, take a piece the size of a large +walnut, put into a cup and add about two tablespoons of cold water, and +squeeze it with a spoon or with your finger, strain through a clean +muslin and add to the Curry. Tamarind is always good for any sort of +brown Curry, and lemon juice for yellow or white Curries, and vinegar +for "moley," because it is an entree, and not much Curry stuffs are +used. + + + + +No. 12.--VEAL CURRY. + + +Everything same as Madras Curry, No. 4, but veal Curry, not nicer. If +you have veal chops, treat same as Curried mutton chops, No. 17. + + + + +No. 13.--MUTTON CURRY. + +For One Pound Mutton (without Fat). + + +Ingredients same as for Madras Curry, No. 4 but not the quantity. Only +three parts should be taken of each; the Curry stuffs need not be fried +as for Madras Curries, but cut the mutton in half-inch squares, put into +a stew-pan, and then add the Curry stuffs (powders?), spices, etc., and +add a tablespoon of cream when serving, as well as a few drops lemon +juice. Curries made from mutton are not so nice as if made from tender +part of beef, but in India and Ceylon several castes do not touch +beef--they call themselves high caste people, and bear numerous +names--they always eat mutton, fowl, vegetable, etc. The Brahman caste +never eat any meat of any sort; still they eat the pure juice of +beef--as milk, ghee,[5] butter, and another kind of medicine made out of +the flesh of the ox, called in Tamil "paroong kayam."[6] + + [5] Ghee is only melted butter, much used in India, most by Bengali. + + [6] Natives of India says it is a very useful medicine, but I myself + know too little history about it, but has a nasty smell. + + + + +No. 14.--PARTRIDGE CURRY. + + +I have nothing to say for this Curry, because you can imitate the pigeon +Curry; anyhow you must put in strong gravy, as partridge does not taste +nice if curried. If you have any partridge left from dinner, the next +day you may Curry it same as pigeon, but don't let it simmer too long +over the oven. Any kind of game (birds?) can be made same as the +pigeon. + + + + +No. 15.--TRIPE CURRY. + + +Take about two lbs. of good, thick part of the tripe, cut them in about +four inches square, or not at all, dip it in hot water, not boiling, but +nearly so. Then take out and scrape off all the black stuff, and clean +it as white as a white tablecloth, and boil it tender as you boil for +"Tripe Fricassee." When cool cut it in half-inch squares, slightly +pepper it. Place a stew-pan on fire, and put in a lump of butter. When +hot add the tripe, fry it to a brownish gold colour, then take out and +put in a plate till required. Now add the Curry stuffs, as No. 4, into +the stew-pan on the fire, and turn it over and over till nice and brown. +Now add the tripe you fried, and half-pint of good gravy, and let it +simmer gently on slow fire. When serving add a tablespoon of cream and +few drops of lemon. Some nice spices and a pinch of cayenne pepper +should be added when frying the Curry Powders. This is a very nice +Curry. By-the-by, the gravy you boil the tripe in should be boiled with +other bones, vegetables, etc., and add to the Curry instead of other +gravy. + + + + +No. 16.--LIVER CURRY, WITH BACON. + + +Take a pound of liver and a piece of fat of bacon, boil both in one pan +for quarter of an hour, then take it off the fire, let it cool, then cut +it in half-inch squares, add about 1/4 lb. bacon to a pound of liver, +and treat it same as Madras Curry, No. 4. The Liver Curry considered not +nicer. Parties in India and Ceylon (Europeans) do not care much for +Liver Curry but as an entree, "Liver and Bacon." A breakfast dish in +India and Ceylon. + + + + +No. 17.--CHOPS CURRIED. + + +This is a changeable way to have mutton chops done for breakfast or as +an entree for dinner. Take eight good chops, and flavour it the usual as +for serving itself (I mean place the chops on a flat dish, pepper and +salt it). Vinegar, a dash of Lucca oil, and few drops of sauce, and let +these soak for a few minutes, then place a frying-pan on fire, add a +lump of butter. When melted add the chops, and fry it in usual way of +mutton chops. When done take it off the frying-pan, keep it in a plate. +Now take a large onion and slice it, and fry it to a gold colour in the +frying-pan you fried the chops, then add all the Curry stuffs to it as +said in the Madras Curry, No. 4, except the cayenne, ginger, and garlic. +When all these are nicely fried add four spoons of good stock (brown), +and now add the chops into the frying-pan. Let it warm, then serve on a +hot dish, and send to table with potatoes, vegetables, etc., same as an +entree. Certainly can used with boiled rice too. + + + + +No. 18.--STEAKS CURRIED. + + +Same as chops curried, but to fry the steaks first, then proceed same as +for mutton chops. Mashed potatoes should join this dish, and boiled +spinach fried in butter with an onion will be a nice accompaniment, but +tough part of beef wouldn't do neither. You must not beat up the steaks +with a chopper or steak tenderer, because all the juice will be out; +scarcely any taste. When serving add a few drops of lemon juice, and +this Curry will taste nicer if gleeced before sending to table in the +following way:--Set a stew-pan on fire, when hot put a small bit of +butter and a small onion, finely sliced, and teaspoon of any gravy. Now +use a wooden spoon for frying the onions, and press them in the +sauce-pan. When nice and brown colour, and the fried onions have stuck +in the sauce-pan, pour the Curry you prepared and a spoon of cream; let +it simmer a few minutes. Send to table with rice. Don't forget to add +lemon juice or vinegar. + + + + +No. 19.--GAME CURRIES (Various). + + +The Game Curry I mean is thus:--elk; venisons; poultry, as turkey, +geese, duck, etc.; rabbit, etc. Can be curried same as No. 4, but it is +not nicer to make them into a yellow Curry, as for fish or vegetables. + + + + +No. 20.--RABBIT OR YOUNG HARE CURRY. + + +N.B.--I think the Rabbit made into a gleeced brown stew much nicer than +putting it in a jar, and prepare like a jugged hare, as it takes away +all the flavour, and the gravy tastes nice, and the meat almost like the +soup meat or plain boiled meat; but the Curried Rabbit is not a bad +recipe, if properly made, to use as an ordinary entree. + +Take a small rabbit; skin it; and cut up in small pieces as large as two +inch square; flour it, and fry in butter or lard, just underdone, and +brown it outside; keep it to a side. Now place a stew-pan on fire, and +add the remaining butter or lard you fried the rabbit with; when this +lard is nice and hot, slice one onion, and brown in the stew-pan. Now +add Curry powder same as Madras Curry, No. 4. When all these are nice +and brownish gold, add a pint of gravy or milk, and let it simmer gently +on slow fire; and quarter of an hour before sending to table, add the +fried rabbit to the Curry sauce, and let it simmer for 15 minutes. When +serving add few drops of lemon juice, and a spoon of cream. The above +Curry for boiled rice; if for an "entree," just cut the rabbit in +joints, and prepare same as the above Curry. When serving add a glass of +claret in place of lemon juice. + + + + +No. 21.--EGG CURRY (Whitish Yellow). + + +Hard boil six eggs, and put in cold water till wanted. Now place a +stew-pan on fire, and add half teaspoon of saffron powder (yellow); +half-pint of milk; one large onion, sliced; one tablespoon finely +chopped ham or corned beef; one green capsicum, cut in quarters; one +potato, mashed up (the potato left from last meal will do). Now simmer +this for quarter of an hour; don't let it burn. When serving, take eggs +out of the shell; cut in halves; place the eggs on a vegetable dish (the +cut part up). Now add a tablespoon of cream, and a few drops of lemon +juice; salt to taste, and pour over the eggs, and send to table with a +brown Curry to accompany the rice (boiled). Samball and fried herring +may be sent with these above Curries and rice. Poppadoms[7] and Bombay +ducks will be a good accompaniment if could be procured. + + [7] Poppadoms is a thin kind of flour and turtle eggs, and a kind of + grain, mixed and made as thin as paper. + + + + +No. 22.--EGG CURRY (Brown). + + +Boil the eggs same as No. 21, and put in cold water till wanted. Now +prepare Curry sauce (brown) as No. 26, pour over the eggs cut in halves, +as egg Curry (yellow). Egg Curries always called in Ceylon "a rest-house +Curry," because in several rest-houses in Ceylon usually not many +visitors pass that way, beside these rest-house keepers cannot get fresh +beef, etc. They always have plenty of eggs, fowls, native vegetables, +etc., but egg Curry only can be made quick. When a gentleman is going +from one planting district to another, a box cooly or a horse-keeper +(groom) runs in front to a certain place, by order of his master. When +he gets into the rest-house, the rest-house keeper knows that a +gentleman is coming. At once he will order to kill a chicken and grill +it in Scotch form? and boil two eggs; when this is doing the kitchen +mate[8] will squeeze half of a cocoanut, with little water mix some +saffron, salt green chillie, Maldive fish, etc., now he boils this for +five minutes. There is the breakfast ready! The bill of fare may be +thus:--Grilled chicken; boiled pumpkin or beans, sometimes potatoes; +boiled rice; egg Curry; samball; tea, coffee, or beer, etc. The dinner +might be similar to above with addition of soup. Sometimes the Curries +are made from native vegetables, as there is plenty of nice and +wholesome vegetables in Ceylon (I mean) besides the English vegetables. +The rest-houses are in place of refreshment rooms and eating-houses are +in England. + + [8] Kitchen mate is a boy kept under the cook to do all the washing, + etc., etc. + + + + +No. 23.--EGG CURRY (Omelet). + + +Make a savoury omelet with chopped ham, parsley, etc. When done, cut in +one-inch squares, and pour over the Curry sauce, brown or yellow, as +Nos. 21 and 22. + +N.B.--The omelet should only be made just before serving, as it will get +tough, etc. The Curry sauce may be made beforehand. + + + + +No. 24.--EGG CURRY (Poached). + + +Prepare Curry sauce, brown or yellow, as Nos. 26, 27. When serving just +let the Curry sauce simmer gently. Now break the eggs carefully and +put in the Curry sauce, each separately. Same as poaching eggs in a +frying-pan. The pan must be a wide stew-pan. When dishing you must +carefully take the yolks without breaking them and pour over the gravy, +and send to table with boiled rice; and thin slices of ham should be +handed round with this Curry and rice. Don't forget the samball for +every Curry, as well as fried red herring. + + + + +No. 25.--FRIED EGGS FOR CURRIES. + + +Beat up the eggs same as for savoury omelet, but omit the sweet herbs, +add chopped ham, salt, pepper, dash of flour, and pinch of cayenne, and +fry in butter or lard (same as omelets, or in small cakes). Send to +table with the Curry and rice in separate dish. The above dish (usually +the native way) not used in gentlemen's houses, but I recommend it to be +tried. + + + + +No. 26.--CURRY SAUCE (Brown, for Meat of any sort). + + +Place a stew-pan on fire, add a spoonful of butter; when melted add one +onion, sliced; when half brownish colour add a tablespoon and a half of +coriander powder, one of rice powder as No. 48, a saltspoon saffron, a +pinch of cumin-seed powder. Now turn this well with a wooden spoon. When +nicely fried, add the spices as said in the Curry No. 4, ginger and +garlic chopped up fine. Now add a pint of good gravy or fresh milk, and +let it simmer on slow fire till you find it reduced to a half-pint. Add +salt to taste, and a little cayenne if preferred hot. Now this Curry +Sauce is ready. This sauce can be heated up with any cold meats, as +beef, mutton, pork, poultry, game, etc., etc., because the meat cooked +beforehand cannot be cooked up in the above sauce, only warmed up. When +preparing, the meat should only be added to the gravy about five to ten +minutes before serving. The above recipe is only suitable for cold +meats, fried livers, chops, steaks, etc., etc. The above is a brown +Curry for parties, like the Curry stuffs; but for yellow Curry with less +Curry stuffs, etc., see the accompanying recipe. But in Ceylon or in +India always two Curries, etc., accompany the rice; especially in Ceylon +a brown and yellow Curry, etc., accompanies the rice to table. + + + + +No. 27.--YELLOW CURRY SAUCE (for Vegetables, Fish, etc.). + + +Slice one onion, one large spoonful of chopped-up ham (fresh, best) or +nice corned beef (cooked), one green capsicum cut in quarters, one small +teaspoon of saffron powder, pinch of cayenne pepper if preferred hot +Curry, half-pint of milk, salt to taste. Now put all these into a clean +stew-pan and set on fire for twenty minutes or more, simmer gently, and +let it reduce to half-pint. When serving add few drops of lemon juice +and a large spoon of cream. The above Curry Sauce is very nice for fish +and vegetables. If it is cooked up vegetable or fish, just add ten +minutes before serving. If it is fresh vegetable or fish, to be cooked +in the sauce from the beginning; see their separate headings. The above +Curry only second to a moley made of fish or fowl. + + + + +No. 28.--CURRIED FOWL (a Joint). + + + 1 good-sized Fowl and Curry Stuffs. + +Everything same as for Madras Curry, but an extra spoon of coriander +powder and spoonful of cocoanut scraped up fine (_i.e._, in England I +have seen and also used cocoanut scraped and preserved in tins by some +firm in London). This cocoanut can add to all kinds of brown Curries, as +it gives flavour to Curry; but it is a new idea, not suitable or used in +the East for a Curry. Dress the fowl as for boiling, and boil it for few +minutes (underdone). Keep this to a side, but don't waste the broth. Now +place a large stew-pan on fire (large enough to hold the fowl), slice +one large onion and fry in the butter. When nicely brown take out the +onions and put in the fowl, and fry it all sides nice and gold colour, +take the fowl out of the pan. Now add all the Curry stuffs, spices, +ginger, garlic, etc., etc., and the broth that the fowl has been boiled +in, and a half-pint of milk and bay leaves. Let all these simmer till +the Curry Sauce is reduced to a pint or little more. Now add the fowl +and turn it occasionally; do not let it burn. When serving, add a few +drops of lemon juice or vinegar (pickled), a spoonful of cream, salt to +taste, and cayenne if preferred. Send to table on a flat dish large +enough to carve the fowl, and leave enough gravy to go round the table; +I mean not juicy, neither dry. The above should be treated as a joint. +If any left can be warmed up in frying-pan, the fowl cut in pieces, and +send to table with fried potatoes, garnished with nice green cabbage +(boiled), or Brussels sprouts will do best. The above will do better on +a Sunday for dinner, as thus:-- + +Not a bad dinner for a small party. + + Beef, mullagatawny, and rice. + Curried fowls, and plenty of vegetables and potatoes. + Some kind of pudding. + + + + +No. 29.--CHICKEN MOLEY. + +For Two Young Chickens and some Gravy. + + +Cut up the chicken in joints, and boil all the bones, etc., for gravy. +Place a stew-pan on fire, add the chicken-bone gravy, half-pint milk, +one small spoon of butter, one eggspoon saffron powder, one tablespoon +of chopped ham, small pinch of cayenne, one bay leaf, spices (bit of +cinnamon, two cloves), salt to taste, one onion sliced. Let it boil (I +mean simmer) for five minutes, then add the chicken, set on slow fire +till the meat is tender. When serving, mix a dessertspoon of flour in +two tablespoons of cream in a tea cup, then add this into the moley and +stir well; let simmer for two or three minutes. When dishing, add a few +drops of lemon juice or pickled vinegar. The above dish should be +light-yellow colour, the gravy thick as cream. Mashed potatoes and fried +bacon may garnish this dish, with red carrots, cut fine and pretty, and +stuck in the mashed potatoes round the dish. The above entree should be +served up on a small flat dish for a dinner, lunch, supper, etc. + + + + +No. 30.--FISH MOLEY. + +For Two Pounds of Salmon. + + +N.B.--The Fish Moley is almost like a Curry (_see_ Fish Curry, Salmon, +No. 31). + +Cut the salmon nearly an inch thick, then cut it in two inches long, +one inch wide, or little round pieces. Now mix in a stew-pan the +following:--a pint of fish stock, white gravy, or milk, one small +spoon of butter, one eggspoon saffron powder, one dessertspoonful +finely-chopped ham, pinch of cayenne, one bay leaf, spices (bit of +cinnamon or cloves), one large onion sliced, salt to taste. Mix all the +above into the stew-pan, and set on fire. When it simmers, add the fish +and let it simmer gently until the fish is done. When serving, mash up a +boiled potato in two tablespoons of cream. Pour to the moley, and add +few drops of lemon juice, and send to table with boiled potatoes (mashed +up and baked in an oven), in shape as a pudding. Suppose if you have any +cold fish boiled the day before, just only mix up the sauce and let it +simmer till wanted, and add the fish five or ten minutes before sending +to table. Any fresh beef, cold beef, mutton, etc., can be made into +moley, but the fresh beef ought to be tender part--the under cut of a +sirloin will do nicely. It cannot be made from pork, because it will not +taste as nice as chicken or fish. + + + + +No. 31.--FISH CURRY (Salmon). + + +The fish Curry is made several different ways in Ceylon and India, as +brown or yellow Curry, but similar to fish moley, hard-boiled egg Curry, +No. 22, and the potato Curry, No. 35; but you must add a spoonful of +chopped ham or corned beef, and use lemon juice, not vinegar. The fish +Curry (brown) can be made same as Madras Curry, No. 4. But proceed to +make the Curry Sauce, No. 26, then add the fish. As soon as the fish is +tender, the Curry is ready. Don't add any butter to fish Curries. The +native cooks use the coriander, saffron, chillies, etc., without +roasting them in the frying-pan.--See "Home-made Curry Powder," No. 1, +but grinding it without roasting. + + + + +No. 32.--FISH CURRY (Various). + + + Salmon. + Haddocks. + Soles. + Whiting. + Codfish. + Whitebait. + Fresh Herrings. + Lobsters. + Crabs. + Oysters. + Prawns. + Shrimps, etc. + +The above Fish Curries can be made same as Salmon Curry, No. 31, egg +Curry (yellow), fish moley, Madras Curry, No. 4, but great care must be +taken not to be burned. The soles and whiting are not nice when curried, +and the oysters should be used without the liquor. Prawns and shrimps +are celebrated Curries if they are freshly caught and properly prepared. +Tamarind used for Fish Curries (brown) are very nice--better than lime +(lemon) juice or vinegar. + + + + +No. 33.--TINNED SARDINES (Curried). + +For a Small Tin of Sardines of One Dozen. + + +Take the sardines, and take off the black part; just finely scrape; with +a spoon place on a tin or plate, and make it warm in an oven. Now make a +Curry sauce (brown), same as No. 26, but less milk or gravy. The Curry +sauce must not be more than a small tea cup, nice and thick, if not +thicker,--just mash up a boiled potato, and add to the sauce. Just +before serving, take each sardine carefully and place in the Curry sauce +you made; do not stir it; set on slow fire for five minutes. When +serving take each carefully without breaking, arrange them nicely on a +Curry or vegetable dish; pour over the gravy, and send to table with +boiled rice or hot toast. Any tinned fish can be made same as the above, +except Yarmouth bloaters, smoked fish, salt fish, mackerel, etc., etc. +Tinned salmon makes a nice Curry. Afraid it will mash up and be like a +gruel instead of lumps. The above Curry sauce will answer to several +boiled fish--boiled the day before. + + + + +No. 34.--VEGETABLE CURRIES (Various). + + +With reference to above, the potato, knol khol, turnips, carrots, +parsnips, vegetable marrow, cucumber, beans, etc., can be made same way +as potato Curry, No. 35; but cabbage, spinach, turnip tops (young +shoots), Brussels sprouts, can be made same way as potato Curry, with +same ingredients, but the cabbage, Brussels sprouts, etc., take little +more time to tenderly boil; therefore extra gravy, milk, butter, and +extra spoon of ham or corned beef. Onions should be added for greens. +The more good gravy you add the better the Curry. As far as I have seen, +there is not many English vegetables can be Curried, but in India and +Ceylon there is numberless vegetables, greens, grasses, etc., can be +Curried. + + + + +No. 35.--POTATO CURRY. + +For One Pound of Good Potatoes (peeled). + + +Cut them in half-inch squares; put them into a clean stew-pan with an +eggspoon of saffron; one large onion, sliced; one large spoon of chopped +ham or corned beef (salt to taste); three parts of a pint of milk. Mix +well together; put in a bay leaf; set on fire, and let it simmer till +the potatoes are tender. If the three-quarters pint of milk is not +sufficient to tender the potatoes, add some good gravy (stock), but not +brown stock. When serving, add a quarter pint of milk and a dessertspoon +or more of cream, and let it simmer. When simmering add a few drops of +lemon juice, and send to table with boiled rice. But a Brown Curry must +accompany the above Curry. + + + + +No. 36.--CABBAGE CURRY. + + +Take half of a small cabbage, and cut it with a sharp knife as big as +you cutting a lettuce for a salad; wash it thoroughly clean; put into a +stew-pan with a pint of gravy, and boil it till half done. Now take it +off the fire; add an eggspoonful of saffron powder; two large spoons of +chopped ham, etc.; a pinch of cayenne (if required hot); one large +onion, sliced; salt to taste. Mix well; set on fire. More gravy or milk +should be added, till the cabbage is soft as usual form. + + + + +No. 37.--BEAN CURRY. + +For a Pound of French Beans. + + +Cut up the beans one inch long and prepare same as the cabbage Curry. +The same ingredients will do and must accompany a meat Curry to table. +These Curries may only be gleeced, if you please, or can serve plain, +but the gleece gives a nice smell and good taste. Any Curry can be +gleeced. If you wish to make Curry of broad beans, must take off the +thicker skin and weigh a pound; but broad beans are not a useful bean +for Curry, but only better as a vegetable by cooking it in a jar with +butter and mint.--See Vegetables for Table, as No. 53. + + + + +No. 38.--ONION CURRY. + + +Same as potato Curry, No. 35. The large onions should be cut in +quarters, and the small onions put in whole; but in India and Ceylon we +have onions (I mean the button onions with red skin) which makes a +delicious Curry. + + + + +No. 39.--DEVILLED CABIN BISCUITS. + + + 1 Onion sliced. + 1 Dessertspoon Butter. + 2 Tablespoons of good Beef Gravy. + 1 Eggspoon or less of Cayenne. + Pinch of Pepper; Salt to taste. + 1 Small Potato mashed up. + 1 Dessertspoon of Worcester Sauce (Lea & Perrins). + +_Mode._--Slice the onions and fry in a stew-pan with the butter; when +the onions turn to a gold colour add all other ingredients. During you +preparing the above, soak six cabin biscuits in boiling water for two +minutes, then take it out of the water and dish the biscuits, and pour +over the devil gravy you prepared. Cover the biscuits with gravy and +serve hot. The above dish is good for lunch, etc. + + + + +No. 40.--DEVILLED MEAT (Various). + + +Same ingredients as for biscuits, No. 39, but meat must be cut two +inches long and added to the stew-pan soon as the onions are fried. +Give it stirring for some while by turning the pieces of meat in it. +By-the-bye, the fresh meat should be fried a little brown, because fresh +meat devilled always tough unless the meat is undercut. Extra spoons of +gravy should be added to devilled meats. Cuttings from cold joints are +nice devilled; but fresh beef ought to be of tender part (as I said +before, undercut). Fowl, duck, mutton, turkey, geese can be done in same +way (I mean from joints roasted beforehand); but you must reduce or +exceed the ingredients for the amount of weight. The quantities given +for devilled biscuits are sufficient for 1 lb., or less of meat. Be +careful not to burn.--See Devilled Biscuits. + + + + +No. 41.--MOLLAGOO TANNEY, AND NOT MULLIGATAWNY.[9] + + [9] Why English people always spell this word wrong? Everybody knows + this--Mollagoo, _pepper_; tanney, _water_. In proper Tamil the + mollagoo tanney is pronounced "Mollagoo Neer" and "Mollagoo Tannir." + + + 2 Good Quarts of Gravy of Mutton Beef or Chicken Soup. + 2 Large Spoons of Coriander Powder. + 1 Tablespoon of Rice Powder as No. 48, and Pinch of Pepper. + 1 Pint of good Milk. + 2 Large Onions, sliced. + 1 Piece of Ginger. + 1 Garlic, small one. + 1/2 Teaspoon of Cumin Powder. + Pinch of Saffron. + 1 Dessertspoon Butter. + +_Mode._--The Curry stuffs you use for mollagoo tanney should be very +fine. Take a large stew-pan and mix all the above together, only one +onion (sliced), garlic and ginger chopped up fine. Let these simmer for +ten minutes, now strain it through a muslin or gravy strainer. Now fry +the other onion in the dessertspoon of butter in another stew-pan. When +the onions are browned add the mollagoo tanney with a small bay leaf, +and skim off the grease, and send to table in a soup tureen as a soup; +but this should be used instead of soup, or the first dish for a lunch +or breakfast or dinner, but I recommend for dinner in Europe. Cut lemon +should be handed round with the above and plain boiled rice. Fried red +herring wouldn't be a bad accompaniment. In India the mullagatawny is +used generally once a week--say on a Sunday or Wednesday. The natives +usually have this mullagatawny on Fridays after their caste. Some +mullagatawny are made of plain Curry stuffs, tamarind, etc., not worth +for Europeans. Some parties who visited India like native mullagatawny +better than the above, according to taste, but I recommend the above for +Europeans. The cayenne pepper should be added if required hot. + + + + +No. 42.--PILLAU RICE (a Mohammedan Dish), au Joint for Dinner. + + +Cook rice as No. 50. Keep it aside till wanted, then place a frying-pan +on fire. Have two large onions (sliced) and two tablespoons of butter, +and add half-teaspoon of saffron. When all the above is nicely brown add +the rice, and keep on turning for few minutes, sprinkle a little salt. +Now this is ready after dishing the above. Fry a large onion (sliced), +and raisins (fried), sliced almonds. Sprinkle the above three over the +pillau rice. The pillau rice should accompany roast fowl or mutton chops +by dishing the meat on a flat dish, and cover it with pillau rice, and +sprinkle over with fried onions, etc. Parsley mint can be fried and +added. If it is to be eaten with Curry, use Madras Curry, kabob, or +salmon, and omit the meat with pillau. + + + + +No. 43.--LEMON (HOT) SAUCE. + + + Juice of a Large Lemon. + 1 Dessertspoon Cayenne. + 1 Dessertspoon Pounded White Sugar; some Salt. + +Mix all together in a cup and use. If required to be kept, boil the +whole in an enamel-plated saucepan; when cold bottle it. This sauce is +very nice with cold meat or with made dishes. + + + + +No. 44.--APPLE CHUTNEY. + +How to make in England. + + + 1/2 lb. Sour Apples, peeled and cored. + 1/4 lb. Currants. + 1 oz. Chillies (or 1/2 oz. Cayenne). + 1 Tablespoon Brown Sugar. + 4 oz. Salt, or to taste. + 1 Eggspoon Pepper, finely ground. + 1 oz. Garlic, chopped up fine. + 1/4 oz. Green Ginger, chopped up fine. + 1/4 lb. Raisins. + +_Mode._--Have the currants and raisins clean, and pound them in grinder +or pounder of stone. Now grind the apples and all other ingredients to a +smooth paste (I mean, not too thin or in lumps). Now mix these well +together with half bottle of best vinegar, and bottle it in tart fruit +bottles, corked well. If you require sweeter have more sugar, and if it +is too watery put in a little less of vinegar. The above plan of chutney +is suitable for cold meats, Curries, etc. In Ceylon, Mango Chutney is +made in similar way, but they use tamarind, and when grinding use +vinegar to soften the ingredients when grinding. + + + + +No. 44a.--MINT CHUTNEY. + + + 1/2 lb. Mint. + 1 oz. Cayenne. + 1/4 lb. Salt. + 1/4 lb. Raisins. + 2 oz. Ginger. + 1/4 lb. Brown Sugar. + 1 oz. Garlic. + 1/2 Bottle Vinegar to grind the above. + 1/2 Bottle Vinegar, hot, to pour over. + +_Mode._--Grind or pound the above by adding the cold vinegar by degrees +to soften. When nice and smooth, put into a bowl and pour over the hot +vinegar. When cool, bottle it in tart fruit bottles, and cork well. + +N.B.--I can give dozens of recipes for chutney. I am afraid it is no use +telling in this book, because the ingredients cannot be procured fresh, +as mangoes, pineapples, lavi-lavi, blinga, tamarind, ripe chillies, +chutnies, etc., etc. The above is a recipe I tried in Newera Eliya, +Ceylon, where fresh mint can be had in any quantity of first class, same +as in England and Scotland. + + + + +No. 45.--QUICKLY-MADE SAMBALL. + +How to make it in England. + + +Chop up fine one large onion, a teaspoon of cayenne, another of crushed +sugar, one tablespoon finely-chopped ham (cooked), one teaspoon salt, +one tablespoon vinegar or lemon juice. + +_Mode._--Mix all the above in a small bowl with a wooden spoon or with +your clean finger. Now add the vinegar. Again mix well, and send to +table with cold pork, Curries, etc. A little more sugar may be added if +preferred sweet. There are great many samballs can be made, but all must +pass the Curry stone or stone-made pounder. The samballs made of dry +chillies, green chillies, cocoanut juice, Maldive fish, onions, cooked +fishes, meats, mint, etc., etc. The samballs are a great improvement to +Curries. In Ceylon every cook would send a samball to table with the +Curry and rice; also native meals are never without a samball--especially +_samball_, or some ball. It is only a new-made chutney or pickle, but +_fresh_ made, called _sampball_. + + + + +No. 46.--HOW TO FRY RED HERRINGS FOR CURRIES. + + +Take two stout common red herrings, cut them about one and a-half inch +long (cross ways); put in a plate and add one tablespoon of vinegar and +a little dash of cayenne; roll the herrings well, and fry them in butter +or lard, and send to table dry, free from grease. To be eaten with rice +and Curry instead of Bombay ducks. + +The above is a new idea, which I came to know during my first visit to +England, Royal Jubilee Exhibition, 1887, in Liverpool. + + + + +No. 47.--TOAST CURRY. + + +Prepare some Curry gravy, same as Madras Curry, No. 4. Now toast two +slices of bread; cut thin, and in diamond shape. After toasted, dish the +toast on a vegetable dish, and pour over the gravy you prepared, and +send to table hot, with Curry and rice, samball, etc. + + + + +No. 48.--HOW TO MAKE RICE POWDER. + + +Take a pound of good rice, and pick out all the black and other things +from it. And now place a frying-pan on fire; soon as it gets hot put in +the rice, and keep on turning till you find it nice and brown colour; +then put on a plate to get cool; then pound this in a stone-made mortar +or pounder (very fine), and bottle it, well corked. Use a tablespoon to +brown Curries. + + + + +No. 49.--MUSHROOMS CURRIED AND SERVED ON TOAST. + + +Pick out half-pound of fresh and good mushrooms; sprinkle with little +pepper and salt. Now prepare Curry sauce as for Snipe Curry. Fry the +mushrooms in a dessertspoon of butter, and add to the Curry sauce; let +it simmer gently for five minutes, then serve on hot toast. A nice dish +for lunch or supper. When eating, a dash of cayenne and mushroom ketchup +may be a nice taste. Try the above. + + + + +No. 50.--RICE, HOW TO BOIL FOR CURRIES. + + +Take an enamelled saucepan to hold four quarts, and fill it +three-quarters full of fresh water, and let it boil. During the time the +water is boiling, soak two pounds of rice (white) for three minutes in +cold water; then strain off the water, and put the rice in the pan that +is boiling, and stir for two minutes, and cover it up. When boiling put +in a spoon, and take out some rice and feel it with your finger. If it +is done drain off all the water, and place the pan near a hot oven till +wanted. + +Must not let it be overdone. If it is overdone and nearly soft, just +drain the boiling rice water, and add a few cups of very cold water. +Stir it, and drain again, and set by the fire or on hot oven for a few +minutes, and you will find each grain separate. Boiled rice ought to +have each grain separate. + +N.B.--The rice I have seen in England they call it "Patcha Areysi," used +for rice cakes, etc., in India and Ceylon, etc. I mean the rice taken +out the shell without boiling the paddy. The rice taken out the shell, +called "Sothareysigal," as follows, of Rangoon, Chittagong, Bengal, +etc., etc.:-- + + Samba. + Muthoo Samba. + Mollagoo Samba. + Oosi Samba. + Collundha. + Bangalam. + Cara. + Vallareysee. + Masareysi. + Waddakathy Samba. + +And several other native names too numerous to mention. The above all +good for eating after boiled. + + + + +No. 51.--A SALAD FOR DINNER, Etc., for Hot Weather. + + + Cucumber. + Beet Root, boiled. + Hard-Boiled Eggs. + Ripe Tomatoes. + Water-Cress. + 1 Large Onion, thin sliced. + Cold Fowl, Beef, or Mutton. + +_Mode._--Cut the meat in thin slices, and put in a flat dish, then slice +the cucumber, beet root, eggs, tomato, and onion, and dress the dish +with the above, neatly arranging by putting one piece cucumber, another +of beet root, another of eggs, and another of tomato, and put the sliced +onions in the middle, and the water-cress round the dish as a +decoration. Now prepare this + + Sauce. + + Yolks of 2 Hard Boiled Eggs. + 1 Potato, finely mashed up. + 1 Dessertspoon of Made Mustard. + 1 Teaspoonful of crushed Sugar, another of Butter. + 2 Dessertspoons of Condensed Milk (omit the Sugar); or, + 1 Large spoon of Cream instead of Condensed Milk. + 1/2 Teaspoon of Salt, Dash of Cayenne and Pepper. + 3 Tablespoons Vinegar, or more. + +Take a small bowl and mash up the potato, yolks of eggs, mustard, +sugar, salt, butter. When nice and smooth add the milk or cream. After +mixed add the vinegar, and mix well and keep separate. When sending to +table just pour the sauce all over the salad with a spoon. Let it stand +for two minutes and serve. The above can be made with or without meat, +and also with lettuce if at hand. Several other salads could be made as +learned cooks have written in the cooks' books; but the above I tried +myself in one of my former masters' bungalows in Ceylon and in England. + + + + +No. 52.--SUNDAL OR POOGATHU (a Native Dish). + + +Finely cut one cabbage (a small one)--I mean as fine as the tobacco used +for cigarettes, put a stew-pan on fire, add a small spoonful of butter, +one onion (sliced). When the onions are nice and brown put in the +cabbage, give it a turn, and add a teacup of good gravy, and cover it +up, and set on gentle fire for few minutes; then add a spoonful of +chopped ham, dash of cayenne and pepper, a pinch of saffron powder, and +set over an oven till wanted. Do not let it burn; keep on turning. When +nice and dry send to table with Curry, and rice, and samball. The above +can be made from any greens; but this is not in use in European houses +in Ceylon, but very nice dish for Curries. + + + + +No. 53.--VEGETABLES BOILED FOR TABLE. + + +French beans, broad beans, peas, Brussels sprouts, etc., will be nice +when boiled in preserve jar with a lump of butter, salt, and dash of +pepper (and mint to peas), but Brussels sprouts requiring lots of +cooking may add some water to it. Spinach and sorrel can be cooked in a +jar with a small onion (sliced), and little more salt to sorrel. Any +vegetables might be done as above. I think it is an economical way of +cooking vegetables; but I am afraid it wouldn't do for large +establishments as hotels, etc., but for family houses it is a better +way. The jar to be placed in a large pan, half full of water, and see it +occasionally to prevent drying up. + + + + +No. 54.--ECONOMICAL CURRY PASTE. + + + 1 lb. Coriander Seed. + 1/4 lb. Dry Chillies. + 1/2 lb. Mustard Seed. + 2 oz. Garlic. + 2 oz. ---- + 1/2 lb. Dried Peas. + 1/2 pint Vinegar. + 1/4 lb. Saffron. + 1/4 lb. Pepper. + 2 oz. Dry Ginger. + 1/2 lb. Salt. + 1/2 lb. Brown Sugar. + 2 oz. Cumin Seed. + 1/2 pint Lucca Oil. + +N.B.--Few Bay Leaves in Ceylon and India. Using Carugapilbay or _Curry +Leaves_, black. + +_Mode._--Grind all the above with the vinegar using to moisten the +ingredients, using a Curry stone or stone-made pounder. When all the +above nice and thin as a paste, put in a jar and pour over the Lucca +oil, and cover it up. Use a large spoon for Madras Curries. The above +good for mushroom, snipe, partridge, and other brown Curries of superior +quality. + + + + +No. 55.--CURRY POWDER (a Recipe). + + + 2 lbs. Coriander Seed. + 1/2 oz. Chillies. + 4 oz. Pepper. + 7 oz. Cumin Seed. + 7 oz. Mustard Seed. + 1 oz. Bay Leaves. + 8 oz. Carum Seed. + 2 oz. Saffron. + +Make all the above into powder, and calculate the weight--ought to +equal. Use one and a-half tablespoonful for brown Curries only. + + + + +No. 56.--CURRY POWDER (a Recipe). + + + 1 lb. Coriander Seed. + 1/4 lb. Cumin Seed. + 6 oz. Saffron. + 10 oz. Dry Chillies. + 2 1/2 oz. Vantheyam (Tamil name) Fenugreek. + 4 oz. Ginger. + 1 Handful chopped-up Bay Leaves. + +Pound smooth all these, and bottle it in, well corked, and use as above. +The above three recipes are from Mr. Symon Nayajam, cook, of Madras and +Colombo, Ceylon. + + + + +No. 57.--CURRY POWDER (a most excellent). + + + 2 Large Old Fowls. + 1 lb. Coriander. + 1/8 lb. Chillies or Cayenne. + 6 oz. Saffron. + 2 Large Spoons Cumin Seed. + 1 oz. Dry Ginger. + 2 oz. Garlic. + 4 Large Spoons of Rice Powder, as No. 48; or 4 Large Spoons of Dried + Peas (roasted and ground). + 1/2 Handful Dried Bay Leaves. + 1 Tablespoon Peppercorns. + 2 doz. Cloves. + 1/4 lb. Button Onions, + 1/4 lb. Butter or Ghee. + +_Mode._--Clean the fowls and cut them in small pieces, the giblets and +all. Put into a large saucepan, and add a few quarts of water, and boil +it very tender--I mean simmer gently for two days. The bones, meat, +etc., should be mashed up. Now take out all the bones, and keep to a +side. Take a large saucepan, put in the butter and sliced onions, and +fry it to a brown colour. Now add all the Curry Powders, garlic chopped +up, bay leaves, dry ginger, cloves, pepper, all in powders, and fry +gently for a few minutes. Now add the gravy of boiled fowls, with the +meat, etc., and let it simmer so a few minutes. When all these are +reduced to three quarts, just dish it on a flat dish and let it cool for +a day, or till it gets hard as a brick. Now pound this in a stone-made +mortar to a smooth powder, and bottle it, well corked, and use for Brown +Curries, a dessertspoon to a pound, with sliced onions, milk or gravy, +and lemon juice. + +N.B.--The above recipe is a most excellent of all the Curry Powders and +Pastes, only second to none. In India we can prepare the above with +tamarind included, for acid taste, and few other ingredients which can +get fresh in Ceylon and India, but I think not procurable in England. + + + + +No. 58.--TOMATO CURRY. + + +For a pound of young or green tomato, ingredients same as for Potato +Curry, No. 35, or for Brown Curry same as No. 4, Madras Curry. Treat it +same as the Cabbage Curry. But I recommend that tomatoes should be made +Brown Curry--tastes nice. Tomato curried is better than all the +vegetables if it is properly made. Ripe tomato not nice when curried, +only for salads. + + + + +No. 59.--CURRIES UNDER VARIOUS NAMES. + + +As to my opinion, Curries can be made from anything, if you could +procure the proper Curry Powders, etc. Almost every Curry is made one or +two ways, by only reducing, exceeding, or mixing the various Curry +stuffs. Some Curries are hot, some dry, some juicy, some sour, and so +on. Then the cooks celebrate the names in the menu as Delhi Curry, Agra +Curry, Madras Curry, Curry a la Punjab, Bengal Curry, Mysore Curry, and +several other names too numerous to mention in this little work. But I +myself and several parties who have visited India will be glad to +recommend Madras Curries as best; and Ceylon Singhalese Curry (yellow) +is good, made of cocoanut juice, Maldive fish, lemon, Curry leaves, +saffron, etc. Several cooks add too much ghee or butter, lard, etc., but +it only spoils the taste of the Curry; and some cooks put too much +spice, and give it too much flavouring. Reasonable ingredients couldn't +spoil a Curry. A small girl of 10 years of age will make a Curry, as +Curries are easily made in India and Ceylon. + + + + +No. 60.--CHUTNEY CHICKEN. + + +Same as country capon, or country captian, but mix few tablespoons of +mango chutney, or any other chutneys, but not hot. + + + + +No. 61.--WHEN TO USE CURRIES. + + +_First Course._ + + Soup. + Fish. + Entrees. + Joints. + +_Second Course._ + + Curry and Rice. + Sweets. + Cheese. + Dessert. + Coffee. + + + + +TAMIL AND ENGLISH NAMES FOR CURRY STUFFS, etc., as used in Ceylon. + + +I only give a few of Tamil languages as generally in use, but not high +words. Many parties visited our Indian continent will understand the +following and names of native vegetables:-- + + English. Tamil. + + Rice. Areysi. + Curry. Currie. + Coriander. Cotha Mulle. + Saffron. Muenjal. + Cumin Seed. Seeragam. + Ginger, Dry. Sukkoo. + Ginger, Green. Engi. + Salt. Oopoo. + Dry Chillie. Cotchi Kaie. + Green Chillie. Patcha Kotchi Kaie. + Cocoanut. Thankaie or Thayangaie. + Maldive Fish. Massi. + Milk. Paal. + Bread. Rotti. + Sugar. Seeney. + Water. Thannir. + Cocoanut Oil. Thankaie Annay. + Ghee. Naie. + Butter. Vannai. + Onions. Vengayam. + Curry Leaves. Caruga Pillay. + Lemon or Limes. Thascekaie. + Tamarind. Puley. + Cinnamon. Carova Patta. + Cloves. Ikramba. + Dry Fish. Caroowadoo. + Fish. Meen. + Beef. Erratchi. + Mutton. Art Erratchi. + Pork. Pandi Erratchi. + Fowl. Coley. + Chicken. Coley Kunju. + + +Articles of Food--Posana Patharitlaugal. + + Meat. Ereitchi. + Fresh Meat. Patcha Eratchi. + Ghie Fish. Ney Meen. + Soles. Nakoo Meen. + Shrimps. Cooni, Erraal. + Prawn. Erraal. + Lobster. Singeerral. + Crab. Nandoo. + Turkey. Van Coley. + Goose. Peria Vathu, or Wathu. + Teal. Seeragi. + Snipe. Collan or Collaan. + + + Cereals. Thaniya Vagayi. + + Boiled Rice. Soru. + Pearl Barley. Barli Arisi. + Sago. Sav-vari-si. + Kurrakan Raggy. Koorakan _Kapay_. + Maize. Sollam, Makka, Solam. + Pulses. Payaroo Vagaie. + Grain. Kadalay, Thaniam. + Flour. Maha, Vagai. + Wheat Flour. Gothuma Ma. + Corn Flour. Sollam Ma. + Tapioca. Eli lay Ma. + Arrowroot. Coova Ma. + Cabbage. Govis Keeray. + Cucumber. _Wellari._ + Pumpkin. Poosani Kai. + Bringall. Kathari Kay. + Wenda Kay. Wenda Kai. + Drumstick. Mooroonga Kai. + Curry Stuffs. Masalai. + Pepper. Melagu. + Mustard. Kadoogoo. + Garlic. Vella Vengayam. + Fenugreek. Vanthayam. + Dark Margosa Leaves. Caroova Pillay. + Aniseed. Soomboo. + Cardamom. Alamor elam. + _Nutmeg._ Sathi Kai. + Mace. Sathi Pathari. + Lime. Ellumitchan _Palam_. + Fruit. Pala, Vagai. + Mango. Mam _Palam_. + Plantain. _Vala_ Palam. + Custard Apple. Seitha _Palam_. + Jack Fruit. Paala, Palam. + Bread Fruit. Lera Palla Kai. + Bullock's Heel. Rama Seitha Palam. + Pine Apple. Annasi Palam. + Orange. Pani Thottam, Palam. + Guava. Coiya Palam. + +I can give several other names in Tamil and English, but my little book +is too light to carry the burden. + + D. SANTIAGOE. + + + + + PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, + LONDON AND BECCLES. + + + + + [ Transcriber's Note: + + The following is a list of corrections made to the original. The first + line is the original line, the second the corrected one. + + pepper (if required, hot curries). He is a little plaintive about + pepper (if required, hot curries)." He is a little plaintive about + + its England. Garlic ginger (green), used for any Meat Curry, it is very + in England. Garlic ginger (green), used for any Meat Curry, it is very + + No. 13. MUTTON CURRY. + No. 13.--MUTTON CURRY. + + o. 22.--EGG CURRY (Brown). + No. 22.--EGG CURRY (Brown). + + let the Curry sauce simmer gently Now break the eggs carefully and + let the Curry sauce simmer gently. Now break the eggs carefully and + + No. 38. ONION CURRY. + No. 38.--ONION CURRY. + + ] + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's The Curry Cook's Assistant, by Daniel Santiagoe + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CURRY COOK'S ASSISTANT *** + +***** This file should be named 34107.txt or 34107.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/4/1/0/34107/ + +Produced by Jana Srna and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This book was +produced from scanned images of public domain material +from the Google Print project.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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